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 COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 
 
Yard and Garden 
 
 A Book of Practical Information 
 
 for the Amateur Gardener 
 
 in City, Town or 
 
 Suburb 
 
 % 
 TARKINGTON BAKER 
 
 Illustrated with Photographs 
 and Diagrams 
 
 INDIANAPOLIS 
 
 THE BOBBS-MERRILL COMPANY 
 
 PUBLISHERS 
 
Copyright 1908 
 The Bobbs-Merrill Company 
 
 February 
 
 
 0^ 
 
 -/b 
 
 UBRARY of CONSWESS] 
 Two Cceics Receivdt; ' 
 
 MAR 21 1 908 I 
 ouss4 ^^* **"• 
 
 PRESS OF 
 
 BRAUNWORTH & CO- 
 
 BOOKBINDERS AND PRINTERS 
 
 BROOKLYN, N. Y. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER PAGE 
 
 I The Yard . . , 1 
 
 II Planning the Garden - = ..,♦ 12 
 
 III How TO Plan .,,.... 31 
 
 IV Lawns 44 
 
 V Vines 75 
 
 VI Annuals ,..,,..• 99 
 
 VII Hardy Perennials 134 
 
 VIII Some Popular Perennials .... 157 
 
 IX Bulbous- and Tuberous- Rooted Plants . ► 170 
 
 X Some Popular Hardy -Bulbs . . . • 194 
 
 XI Irises and Tender Bulbs 219 
 
 XII Shrubs 240 
 
 XIII Trees 266 
 
 XIV Soil and Fertilizers 293 
 
 XV Insects and Diseases 309 
 
 XVI The Indoor Winter Window Garden , . 329 
 
 XVII A Chapter of Specialties . , . . 357 
 
 Appendix 379 
 
 Index , 405 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Cottage home in a city with yard ornamented with plants 
 
 — Frontispiece 
 
 Small space of city yard converted into formal garden . 3 
 
 Beginning the improvement of a city back-yard . . 9 
 
 The same yard three months later 9 
 
 Making the most of meager space for flowers . . 15 
 
 Grounds of a factory ornamented with plants . . 17 
 
 Example of planting in limited space .... 20 
 
 Side-yard planned and planted by the owner ... 24 
 
 Elaborate planting in city yard — pergola in center . 27 
 
 Example of simple but effective planting ... 33 
 
 Yard-planting in which tree is made the center . . 39 
 
 Wall-planting — result of careful planning ... 43 
 
 Hedge of privet as a city yard boundary ... 47 
 
 Sun-dial in corner of city lawn 50 
 
 Hedge of climbing roses defining limit of lawn . . 57 
 
 Colony of iris established in lawn 61 
 
 Unsightly corner of yard ornamented with plants . . 65 
 
 Garden seat at end of small city lawn .... 70 
 
 Wild grape from woods in city yard . . . .79 
 
 Flowers of the clematis 84 
 
 City residence covered with woodbine .... 89 
 
 Flowers of the fragrant honeysuckle .... 93 
 
 Annual phlox 100 
 
 Single and double zinnias 102 
 
 Snapdragon 105 
 
 China aster 105 
 
 Transplanting seedlings to "thumb-pots" . . . 107 
 
 Stocks ... o ,„.... 110 
 
 Shirley poppies . , . .. ... 110 
 
 Sweet peas . . ... 112 
 
 Petunias . . , ... 114 
 
LIST OF IhlAJSTBATIOtiS— Continued 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Pot marigold . . . o o . . . . 116 
 
 Sowing seeds of annuals ...... 118 
 
 Plants in porch box combined with hardy ferns to make 
 
 solid wall of foliage and flower ..... 121 
 Porch boxes filled with plants suitable for eastern 
 
 exposure ......... 121 
 
 Porch box newly started but with plants in bloom . . 126 
 
 Effective grouping of single plants 129 
 
 Porch boxes exposed to full sunlight .... 131 
 
 Meadow Sweet 135 
 
 Catchfly 137 
 
 Achillea 139 
 
 Columbine ,....»... 139 
 
 Globe Flower 141 
 
 Swamp rose 143 
 
 Oriental poppy 145 
 
 Stoke's aster 147 
 
 Bee Balm 148 
 
 Balloon Flower 148 
 
 Larkspur 150 
 
 Golden Marguerite ........ 152 
 
 Sweet William . « 154 
 
 False Dragon-head 154 
 
 Spiraea 155 
 
 Golden Glow 158 
 
 Boltonia 159 
 
 Monkshood ......... 161 
 
 Foxglove 161 
 
 Chrysanthemum, "Shasta Daisy" 163 
 
 Veronica 165 
 
 Plantain lily 166 
 
 Yellow Day lily 166 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS— Con^mwecf 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Transplanting hardy perennials 167 
 
 Narcissus days in a city yard garden . . . .171 
 
 May-flowering tulips on Decoration Day .... 174 
 
 Dahlia 176 
 
 Canna ,..-:...,-. 176 
 
 Flowers of tuberous-rooted begonia 178 
 
 Flower of the canna 181 
 
 Torch lily 185 
 
 Canada lily 185 
 
 Kramer's lily 187 
 
 Single dahlias 189 
 
 Madonna lily 191 
 
 Erythronium 196 
 
 Poet's narcissus 196 
 
 Trumpet varieties of narcissus 199 
 
 Hyacinths 201 
 
 Parrot tulips 203 
 
 May-flowering tulips 203 
 
 Gladiolus 206 
 
 Montbretia 206 
 
 Tiger lily 211 
 
 Thunbergian lily 216 
 
 Japanese iris 221 
 
 Spanish iris . 225 
 
 White Siberian iris 230 
 
 German iris ...<,..... 230 
 
 Siberian iris 234 
 
 English iris . . r 234 
 
 Bridal Wreath . . , , 241 
 
 Hydrangea laden with flowers 244 
 
 Blossom of the tree peony in early spring . . . 247 
 
 Shrubbery walk in small city yard ..... 249 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS— C'o>i^/nMc(^ 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Flowers of the Mountain Laurel „ . . . . 255 
 
 Hardy azalea in bloom .,,..,. 258 
 
 Rhododendron in bloom ....... 260 
 
 Flowers of the tall-growing Bird Cherry .... 262 
 
 Planting a tree 267 
 
 Tree that has never been pruned 272 
 
 Trees ruined by ignorant pruner 272 
 
 Fruit trees for shade and fruit in city yard . . . 279 
 
 Effective grouping of evergreen trees .... 287 
 
 Decorative value of the haw 294 
 
 Colony of Sedum specfabile in poor soil . . . 299 
 Blue Day lily growing in soil which the owner considered 
 
 "impossible" 306 
 
 Spraying easily done in the average city yard . . 311 
 
 Typical chewing insect (Cecropia moth) .... 312 
 
 San Jose scale 318 
 
 Oyster shell scale 318 
 
 Fall web-worm 320 
 
 Scurfy scale 320 
 
 Work of the catalpa sphinx moth 325 
 
 Paris daisies . . 330 
 
 Root growth of narcissus 333 
 
 Azalea Indica in bloom . . 333 
 
 Ornamental-foliaged begonia 336 
 
 Foliage plants suitable for a window garden . . . 338 
 
 Paper white narcissus 341 
 
 Hyacinths, cyclamen and lily, products of a sunny 
 
 window garden ........ 345 
 
 Freesias in bloom .,,..... 347 
 
 Group of plants suitable for shaded window . . . 349 
 
 Geraniums in bloom indoors in mid-winter . . . 350 
 
 Tender hydrangea . 353 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS— Co7ifi/iMerf 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Lace fern .......... 354 
 
 The Maidenhair fern .,,.... 355 
 
 Rose — General Jacqueminot 359 
 
 Border of hardy ferns as screen for foundation . . 365 
 
 Ostrich ferns in narrow border 366 
 
 Double peony 369 
 
 Single peonies .371 
 
 Flowers of the tree peony . 372 
 
 Hardy phlox 375 
 
 Wild Sweet William 377 
 
YARD AND GARDEN 
 
YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 THE YAED 
 
 The owner of a city or town lot, of a subur- 
 ban home or of a country estate is usually 
 interested in affairs which he considers more 
 important, or at least more practical, than the 
 abstract principles of gardening, no matter in 
 what form they are presented or what applica- 
 tion is to be made of them. His innnediate re- 
 quirement, if his attention be directed at all 
 toward the subject, is practice and not theory. 
 He wants planting and not principle; his main 
 desire is to employ the speediest and safest 
 process to make his yard, his grounds or his 
 estate — if we can distinguish property sizes by 
 these common though vague terms — as harmo- 
 niously and effectively beautiful as trees, 
 shrubs, plants and vines and his financial re- 
 sources will permit. 
 
 In a sense he is justified and, in any event, 
 1 
 
2 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 he is but responding to a common and natural 
 impulse, to obtain for himself that which has 
 pleased or interested him. He is impatient of 
 theory and eager for results. Disquisitions on 
 the fundamental laws of gardening or land- 
 scaping are tedious if not perplexing and, in 
 his judgment, of little value. His conclusion 
 may be hasty but to some extent it is entirely 
 correct. There are no hard and fast rules for 
 gardening and particularly for the art of orna- 
 mental gardening, whether it be conducted on 
 large or small scale, on a country estate or the 
 back-yard of a city lot. 
 
 There are some principles best remembered 
 but even they are not without innumerable va- 
 riation in application. In gardening, as in 
 house building, individual taste, temper and 
 aspirations are reflected and each garden, con- 
 sequently, is a law unto itself. Still, under- 
 neath this disclosure of the gardener's own 
 nature and individuality there are broad princi- 
 ples, applicable to all and the foundation of 
 all. They are simple, obvious and natural. 
 The beginner can make fair progress with noth- 
 ing more than an instinctive knowledge of them. 
 Any day in the year, in any wood or meadow, 
 on the banks of any stream, even by the coun- 
 
THE YARD 
 
4 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 try roadside^ any place where natural condi- 
 tions remain in some measure imdisturbed, 
 every principle necessary for the most elab- 
 orate gardening processes is disclosed by na- 
 ture itself. 
 
 If the beginner will bear this in mind and at 
 the same time remember that there is no space 
 too confined for the application of nature's prin- 
 ciples, he will have mastered all the fundamen- 
 tal law that it is necessary for him to master. 
 With this as a basis, he will quickly observe 
 that ornamental gardening, whether it be by 
 the formal method, the natural method or a 
 combination of the two, is only a simple appli- 
 cation of this common law. He may himself 
 choose to copy the Italian garden, devise some 
 modification of the English wall garden, elab- 
 orate the miniature gardens of Japan or con- 
 tent himself with duplicating and exalting 
 nature in natural gardening, but whichever 
 course he elects to pursue he will find the prin- 
 ciples the same. 
 
 GARDENING 
 
 The owner of a home, whether it be on exten- 
 sive grounds or set on a narrow and shallow 
 city lot, need not hesitate, therefore, to begin 
 
THE YAKD 5 
 
 gardening — and by gardening is meant the lay- 
 ing out and cultivation of gardens, whether they 
 be large or small, a square yard or an acre, 
 open or inclosed, a part of an estate or all of 
 it. The first important consideration to him 
 is the understanding of what can be done with 
 his own home grounds. It is important to com- 
 prehend the value of improving them, even 
 where the area is so small as to seem to pre- 
 clude all opportunity for such effort. Most of 
 us realize what paint will do for an old house, 
 but few of us realize what a well-kept lawn or 
 well-planted yard will do. Yet there are a num- 
 ber of examples. 
 
 There is, for instance, the case of the owne^^ 
 of a city home who was anxious to dispose 
 of it. The house was old and not attractive 
 and interested inquirers were few. The owner 
 painted the house but still no sale was effected. 
 Next, upon the suggestion of a friend who 
 knew the value of shrubs and vines and flow- 
 ers, the yard was planted at a cost con- 
 siderably less than the painting had entailed ; 
 hedges were su])stituted for ugly division fences 
 and a general transformation was effected in 
 less than a season's time. The owner then 
 found not only that there were a number of 
 
6 YARD AND GAEDEN 
 
 purchasers eager for the property but, more- 
 over, that he no longer desired to seU. 
 
 This experience is not as exceptional as it 
 might at first thought appear. As a matter of 
 fact very few persons are found nowadays who 
 deny that value, of the sort estimable in dollars 
 and cents, as well as beauty, can be added to a 
 home by the judicious planting of the yard. 
 No matter how imposing a house may be or 
 how perfect and harmonious the lines of its 
 architecture, or how well its interior may be fin- 
 ished and furnished, all suffer when the yard is 
 neglected. On the other hand, though the house 
 itself be old and weather-worn, it can be made to 
 assume an attractive appearance if it be sur- 
 rounded by trees, vines, shrubs, and flowers, 
 carefully selected, wisely situated, patiently 
 cultivated. 
 
 These facts are no longer questioned, if, in- 
 deed, doubt of a serious nature was ever op- 
 posed to them. All of us have learned the 
 value of a city beautiful, and most of us admit 
 the value of a home beautiful. If we do not 
 contribute to the one or disregard the other, 
 it is not for lack of knowledge but rather be- 
 cause of indifference. But even this indiffer- 
 ence is gradually disappearing and to-day we 
 
THE YARD 7 
 
 have owners of houses, factories and other 
 buildings of a semi-public character, beautify- 
 ing their grounds by the liberal employment of 
 nature's materials. 
 
 VALUE OF EXAMPLE 
 
 Moreover, we have examples to encourage 
 us; we have city parks and streets or avenues, 
 city yards, suburban homes and country estates 
 planted or landscaped. And these are not 
 without valuable influence, for it seldom hap- 
 pens that the residents of a neighborhood sur- 
 rounding a place, large or small, that has been 
 effectively planted, lag far behind the pioneer. 
 Before his advent, or before his operations 
 were begun, it might be that lawns were un- 
 kempt and flowers were unknown, but it does 
 not require more than a season or two for the 
 one improvement to arouse others to action and 
 for the movement thus started to gain in extent 
 until it amply justifies all the faith placed in 
 the power of example by such bodies as civic 
 improvement societies. 
 
 Planting, from whatever cause it may spring, 
 once begun is not quickly abandoned. Garden- 
 ing begets gardening — the more one plants the 
 more one desires to plant. But the fascination 
 
8 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 of the pursuit is not alone sufficient to account 
 for this. In addition to exercising that uni- 
 versally instinctive desire to raise things, to 
 see them grow and thrive on the care and 
 attention one bestows on them, no field of en- 
 deavor, as has already been suggested, prom- 
 ises a broader scope for the expression of an 
 individual's taste, temper and aspirations. 
 We seek to have the houses we build express 
 something of our own personality, but, were we 
 only aware of it, the yard presents a far more 
 favorable field for such etfort. Who can not, 
 for instance, judge of the intellectual and moral, 
 as well as of the sanitary status of a community, 
 of a neighborhood, or of the owner of a private 
 dwelling by its external conditions 1 
 
 Nothing can be more incongruous than the 
 littered back-yard of an imposing city resi- 
 dence. Within dwell persons who are fond of 
 comfort, if not of luxury, intelligent and edu- 
 cated, and it seems wholly impossil)le that they 
 would not avail themselves of the opportunity 
 to add so much enjoyment for themselves and 
 for others by improving the ground at their 
 disposal, instead of making it a place for the 
 deposit of old barrels, boxes, tin cans, and other 
 rubbish. The only possible argument against 
 
THE YARD 
 
 Begiiiniiiy' the Improvement of ii City Buck-Yard 
 
 Tlie fciame Yard Three Months Later 
 
10 YARD AND GAEDEN 
 
 such improvement, and, indeed, the argument 
 that is most frequently advanced, is the lack of 
 space. But it is not space that is wanting, but 
 — taste, temper and aspiration. Even in a 
 space that is not more than twenty feet square, 
 there is sufficient ground for an attractive gar- 
 den. 
 
 How much more opportunity i-s there then 
 for that owner of a city lot of the usual size 
 upon which he has erected a house of the usual 
 dimensions? Instead of confining his efforts 
 to the making of a small garden he has, com- 
 paratively speaking, a vast domain at his dis- 
 posal. His lot, perhaps, is forty feet wide and 
 one hundred feet deep. His house at most oc- 
 cupies half of this; occasionally some other 
 building — a stable, a garage — ^may occupy a 
 few feet more, but, withal, he has remaining 
 six hundred, eight hundred or a thousand 
 square feet upon which to plant vines, and 
 shrubs, and trees, and flowers. By employing 
 to advantage this available space, he can con- 
 tribute to his own pleasure, to the pleasure of 
 his neighbors and of passers-by; he may set 
 a good example and he may materially increase 
 the value of his property. The latter is not 
 a matter of theory but a matter of fact. Nor 
 
THE YARD 11 
 
 is the increase to property value confined to the 
 property improved; on the contrary all sur- 
 rounding property is in a measure affected. 
 Unfortunately, however, we learn this too 
 often only through the demonstration of the 
 negative of it. It is quickly enough realized 
 when some neighborhood suffers a direct de- 
 preciation in property values through the care- 
 lessness, selfishness, ignorance or downright 
 stubbornness of a single property owner who 
 persists in maintaining an ugly, unsightly yard 
 which is little less than a legal nuisance and 
 most certainly a positive eyesore. 
 
 If all these facts were more extensively 
 understood and their true worth and full sig- 
 nificance were better known by individuals and 
 communities, public health would be better con- 
 served, cleanliness would be insured, fewer 
 sanitary inspectors would be necessary and the 
 beauty of town or city would be materially 
 enhanced. The individual himself would no 
 longer be the possessor of a house and lot, but 
 he would become the owner of a home, with a 
 yard harmonizing with the house and affording, 
 in summer at least, an additional pleasant, 
 healthful and attractive living-room. 
 
CHAPTER II 
 
 PLANNING THE GAEDEN 
 
 Before there were gardeners there were gar- 
 dens. The first gardener, no doubt, was a 
 fence-builder; he appropriated whatever he 
 found growing, that was of use or benefit, in- 
 closed it to exclude marauders and to protect 
 and safeguard it the better. C^onsequently in 
 the beginning a garden was an inclosed space. 
 It is easily conceivable that in this inclosed 
 space not all the native plants which might 
 prove of value to this primitive gardener were 
 to be found. He inclosed, doubtless, what he 
 could, but some were too remotely situated to 
 be included. It became his problem, therefore, 
 to introduce such of these as he desired into 
 his protected area and, in the subsequent op- 
 erations, we have the first garden planning and 
 the first actual gardening. 
 
 This primitive ancestor was not without 
 definite plan when he went beyond his crude 
 pale and brought into his inclosure some plant 
 
 12 
 
PLANNING THE GARDEN 13 
 
 which he had failed to include when he laid 
 his barricade. And no more are we without 
 plan when we transplant a tree, sow seeds or 
 set out shrubs, vines or flowers. We put them 
 where we believe they will prove most effective 
 in attaining the end desired. 
 
 This is the beginning of planning, and, even 
 when it is elaborated, it is neither difficult nor 
 complex, though it has, unfortunately, been 
 made by professional gardeners to seem both. 
 Nor is it uninteresting. On the contrary, it 
 is simple and fascinating and no small part 
 of the delight and interest in gardening, espe- 
 cially in planting to ornament a small place, 
 owes its origin to the operation. Moreover, 
 the picture thus produced is our own, not an- 
 other 's ; it is of our conception and our mak- 
 ing, expressing our own ideas and our own feel- 
 ings as well as our individual natures. And, 
 being not only a simple but an absorbing pro- 
 cess, why, when so easily and cheaply engaged 
 in, employ another to undertake the work for 
 us! 
 
 PRINCIPLES INVOLVED 
 
 Let those who own ground start with the 
 premise that every place can be improved. 
 No yard is too small and no estate too large 
 
14 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 to make impossible its improvement by the use 
 of plants of some sort, and, large or small, the 
 principles involved are invariably the same — 
 it is only the scale upon which they are applied 
 that differs. Often one may see plants in tubs 
 standing in front of store or office building, 
 or set about the entrances and corridors in the 
 busiest section of down-town districts of large 
 cities. Wherever these are in evidence the 
 passer-by does not fail to take note of them or 
 to observe gratefully the effect they produce. 
 
 There are also other instances where garden- 
 ing is practised in almost impossible places. 
 In some sections of some cities private resi- 
 dences are without front lawns of any descrip- 
 tion, and apparently there is no opportunity 
 for planting. Still these homes are not with- 
 out their flowers, for window boxes have been 
 fitted in place and in these vines and flowers 
 thrive and bloom. Then again — it is always a 
 hopeful sign — in the most densely populated 
 districts of the slums of our larger cities, one 
 may frequently observe a plant struggling for 
 life in some dust-streaked window of a home 
 where dire poverty, only too evident, would 
 seem to prohibit even the most feeble exhibi- 
 tion of a love for something green and growing. 
 
PLANNING THE GARDEN 
 
 15 
 
16 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 One may turn also to the manufacturing centers 
 and here he will find frequently that the prac- 
 tical business sense of the owner has led him 
 to employ vines, shrubs and flowers to make 
 his work-shop a healthier and more enjoyable 
 place for his employees. 
 
 If one will consider for a moment what the 
 purpose of a yard is, perhaps a sense of logic 
 will induce him to see clearly 'why an effort 
 should be made to get as much out of it as 
 space and other conditions will allow. The 
 yard surrounding a house, whether large or 
 small, contributes directly and indirectly to the 
 health and comfort of the occupants of the 
 home; it insures light, air and sunshine; it af- 
 fords for the most of us at least a glimpse of 
 nature. If we should determine to embellish 
 this area with plants we should lose none of the 
 advantages it affords but, as a matter of fact, 
 we should add considerably to them. Individu- 
 ally, we should get more light and more air 
 and more sunshine, for gardening means out- 
 doors life for the man or woman who begins it 
 and takes an interest in it. It means ten or fif- 
 teen minutes a day, or more perhaps, beneath 
 the sky, and ten or fifteen minutes less beneath 
 the roof. It means healthful exercise, a closer 
 
PLANNING THE GARDEN 17 
 
18 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 acquaintance with nature, a broader glimpse of 
 nature's methods, and a deejier appreciation of 
 nature's handiwork. 
 
 It is worth while to have a yard but it is 
 worth infinitely more to make use of it, and if 
 one will tend it with interest and some regard 
 for the fitness of things, surprising results can 
 be accomplished. And when mention is made 
 of the yard it must not be deduced that the siui- 
 cious lawns and gardens of large city or subur- 
 ban homes are in mind; on the contrary the 
 reference is rather to the little strip of ground 
 behind the house, and the smaller strip in front 
 of it which answer for breathing spaces for 
 most of us who dwell in cities and towns. The 
 city yard, of course, is deplorably small, and 
 year by year, as population increases it seems 
 to become smaller. It used to be that we con- 
 sidered one house to a lot enough, but now the 
 builder, anxious to make his property pay him 
 goodly dividends, has developed the habit of 
 doubling the building without increasing the 
 size of the lots. It might be possible to show 
 even to him that there are advantages often 
 from an investment point of view in more 
 ground and less building, but, while this is at 
 best a difficult task — for it affects too intimately 
 
PLANNING THE GARDEN 19 
 
 the immediate revenues — it should not be diffi- 
 cult to prove that provision made for planting 
 and the planting itself are both wise invest- 
 ments that will not fail to yield substantial div- 
 idends. 
 
 EXAMPLES OF PLANTING 
 
 Let us take, as a basis to illustrate what can 
 be done, the sort of lot one finds oftenest in the 
 residence sections of cities. In one of the 
 larger cities of the Middle West there is a 
 small home on a lot forty feet wide and one 
 hundred and fifty feet deep. To be exact, the 
 house is situated twenty feet from the property 
 line, four feet from the north line of the lot, ten 
 feet from the south line and fifty feet from the 
 west line. Around the porch, screening the 
 foundations, are dwarf shrubs and ferns ; along 
 the south line of the house, in a border two feet 
 wide between the walk and the house, there are 
 lilies of various species growing among funkias 
 or ''plantain" lilies — here again the brick 
 foundations are entirely hidden from view. 
 Boston ivy climbs up the pillars of the porch, 
 and porch boxes are filled with flowering and 
 foliage plants and vines. On the north side are 
 more ferns and a few shrubs and these in their 
 
20 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 turn completely hide the foundation walls. "We 
 have,. therefore, to begin with, a house that is 
 not ''bare-footed." The front yard is a lawn 
 with no flowers growing upon it, but a hedge, 
 kept trimmed to a height of three feet, incloses 
 the premises. In the rear there is a central lawn 
 fifteen feet square; around this are grouped 
 
 Example of Planting in Limited Space 
 
 beds and borders of perennials and shrubs. 
 Amongst these, annuals are planted each sea- 
 son to afford additional bloom and a surer suc- 
 cession. 
 
 On this place, from the earliest days of spring 
 until the first killing frost in the fall, there is 
 never a time when an armful of flowers can 
 
PLANNING THE GARDEN 21 
 
 not be gathered. The planter of this place be- 
 gan his work when he was in wretched health, 
 but through his gardening operations he recov- 
 ered from his illness, gained strength and vigor, 
 made his home more beautiful and, at the ex- 
 pense of a few minutes each day, and a. few 
 dollars, he increased the value of the property 
 nearly twenty per cent. 
 
 If the owner of a city lot is not impressed 
 by examples of this kind but still finds it diffi- 
 cult to rid himself of the idea that the small 
 space at his command means an end to all 
 thought of ornamental planting, let him make 
 a sketch of his yard on paper, drawn to scale, 
 and with this before him undertake an explora- 
 tion of the possibilities. It is not unlikely that 
 this method of procedure will disclose oppor- 
 tunities for gardening which, as a beginner, not 
 yet either deeply interested or enthusiastic, he 
 might otherwise overlook. Gradually, as these 
 become apparent, the fact also will develop that 
 it is not more impracticable to create a pleasing 
 picture within an area of a few square yards 
 than in the space of a mansion garden. In- 
 deed, it may prove that limitation of space will 
 contribute to tine if not broad expression of the 
 best gardening, for it is evident that it must 
 
22 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 test to greater degree one's taste and skill; in 
 the contracted area more selection and more re- 
 jection, better judgment and more care in ar- 
 rangement must be exercised, whereas, in a big 
 place, trees, shrubs and broad expanse of lawn 
 are frequently sufficient in themselves to create 
 the picture. 
 
 ELEMENTARY PLANNING 
 
 The person who has grown flowers for a year 
 or two is in little need of the suggestion that 
 even a season's garden should be planned. 
 There is enough delight in the work — in the an- 
 ticipation to which it gives rise — to make it 
 reasonably certain that the garden will be 
 planned in some fashion before the planting 
 time is at hand. In fact, all of us, even the 
 novice, do more or less planning before we 
 plant. Frequently we do not recognize it and 
 really persuade ourselves that we plant as the 
 desire seizes us. But, when it is considered 
 that beds must be dug in the spring, it must 
 be apparent that, in determining where they 
 are to be situated, we have, in an elementary 
 manner at least, planned our garden. 
 
 It may seem absurd to speak of planning a 
 single bed. One desires to plant so many 
 
PLANNING THE GARDEN 23 
 
 nasturtiums or, as May days come with their 
 assurance that frosts are over, one begins to 
 think of setting out geraniums. Well and 
 good ; no plan on paper is needed. The planter 
 has only to determine upon the location of the 
 bed and the work is done. But, even in so sim- 
 ple a process, one has to take into considera- 
 tion the very same things that must be con- 
 sidered in planning a large garden. One must 
 give some attention to surrounding objects, to 
 the proximity, for instance, of buildings, of 
 trees or shrubs or fences. One must ponder 
 whether this color or that will war with the color 
 of the house, or whether tall-growing or dwarf 
 flowers shall be planted, or whether foliage or 
 blossom is the more desirable. 
 
 So, in a measure, in planning even this single 
 small bed, consideration is had for conditions 
 which must be taken into account when one is 
 jDlanning on a more extensive scale. But in the 
 latter case, the planner has also to deal with 
 other details. He must learn all there is to be 
 learned of the situation and the conditions gov- 
 erning it; he must take into consideration all 
 surrounding objects — fences, houses, trees, 
 shrubs or whatever there may be of a per- 
 manent nature, for which provision must be 
 
24 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
PLANNING THE GARDEN 25 
 
 made. He must consider what ])lants will 
 thrive best under the conditions into which he 
 purposes to bring them and he must consider 
 what plants will harmonize in color and what 
 w^ill not. He must select and reject and con- 
 tinue the process until he has not only a list 
 of plants suitable to the site but one also which 
 includes as many as possible of those he most 
 desires. It is by such means that a plan be- 
 comes an expression of the planter's own indi- 
 viduality and the garden which is planted in 
 accordance with it reflects the character of its 
 maker. 
 
 PLANNING BEFORE BUILDING 
 
 In many instances one of the first discoveries 
 that will be made is that the ornamentation of 
 the home grounds could have l)een accom- 
 plished far more speedily, effectively and eco- 
 nomically if, before building, some thought had 
 been given to the matter and some comprehen- 
 sion of the real value of a yard had been 
 gained. In America, too often the blunder is 
 made of building a house on a site which pre- 
 sents numerous difficulties in the way of adorn- 
 ment when other sites more favorable might be 
 obtained, at no greater expense than a little 
 
26 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 more foretlioiiglit and search. This is fre- 
 quently followed by another blunder which re- 
 sults in the location of the house on the site 
 in such manner that even the few possibilities 
 for ornamentation which might have existed at 
 first, are almost entirely eliminated. It is not 
 uncommon to observe, as an illustration, the 
 destruction of some splendid tree, cut down 
 without thought of its value, when by setting 
 the house a few feet in one direction or another, 
 the sacrifice could have been easily avoided and 
 a natural ornament requiring perhaps a half 
 century for its growth and development pre- 
 served. 
 
 In this connection it may be well to observe 
 that it is not always either advisable or desir- 
 able to set the house on a line with adjoining 
 structures, and certainly it is not necessary. 
 A neighbor may protest if you suggest pro- 
 jecting your house beyond his, but surely he 
 will offer no objection to your setting it farther 
 back if you wish, and often you will be the 
 gainer if you adopt this course. It is difficult 
 to account for the idea, which seems firmly fixed 
 in some cities and towns, calling for the usual 
 military-like alignment of houses. It means 
 frequently a waste of yard possibilities — a neg- 
 
PLANNING THE GARDEN 27 
 
28 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 lect of germine natural resources — with no ap- 
 parent gain to overcome the loss. 
 
 The preservation of continuity of the prop- 
 erty line is sometimes, of course, a necessity in 
 large cities, especially where land is expensive 
 and where every foot must be covered by build- 
 ing, but where lots are large, comparatively 
 speaking, make sure that to establish the house 
 on the line will contribute to the general ap- 
 pearance of the place as a home before the step 
 is taken. If it may seem that more is to be 
 gained by setting it farther back from the street 
 than neighboring houses, do not sacrifice your 
 originality as an offering to conventionality, 
 but build your foundations accordingly, use the 
 rear yard as a service yard only and make the 
 most of the front area that as a result will be 
 at your disposal. Bear in mind that the house 
 itself will show to better advantage when it is 
 set, as it eventually should be, in a frame of 
 blooming plants, green shrubs and climbing 
 vines. 
 
 PROVIDING FOR WALKS 
 
 Especially give attention to the location of 
 walks. First consider where the street en- 
 trance or entrances are to be, deciding this on 
 
PLANNING THE GARDEN 29 
 
 the basis of practical usage and convenience. 
 Then direct the walks by the shortest route to 
 their objective point. Avoid senseless curves, 
 especially in a small yard, and have no more 
 walks than are absolutely necessary, nor walks 
 that are wider than necessary. If the grounds 
 are large — half an acre or more in extent — then 
 walks serving no practical ends may be intro- 
 duced if desired. These may lead by devious 
 course to retired seats or summer-houses or 
 may conduct to shrubberies or to artificial gar- 
 den ornaments, as, for example, a sun-dial. 
 But if such walks are wanted, let the planter 
 go forth to some remote wood or old meadow 
 and, finding a path worn by the foot of man or 
 beast, study its outlines and curves. He will 
 not be long in observing that its irregularities 
 are not without purpose — it avoids obstacles, 
 a tree, a shrub, a stump, a stone, a bog; it cir- 
 cles knolls or follows the meanderings of a 
 stream. But always it changes its course for 
 reasons that are obvious. And for such 
 reasons and these alone should the direction of 
 walks laid on residence grounds be changed. 
 The obstacles, of course, may be provided, but 
 in any event they should be present and visible. 
 A grouping of shrubbery, a large boulder, a 
 
30 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 tree or similar object, artificial as well as nat- 
 ural, may be employed to gain the end desired 
 and will not fail to prove effective as well as 
 logical. 
 
 Each year finds Americans giving more and 
 more attention to all such details. The house 
 no longer receives attention to the entire exclu- 
 sion of its surroundings ; it has come to be con- 
 sidered a part of the home, not all of it. And 
 this is equally true when the house is already 
 erected, as it is in a majority of instances, and 
 we must make the most of conditions as we find 
 them. This, of course, is more difficult, but it 
 is never impossible. It means only that all the 
 7nore planning is necessary and it presents no 
 cause for discouragement, but, on the contrary, 
 an incentive to greater effort. 
 
CHAPTEE III 
 
 HOW TO PLAN 
 
 Though where art is concerned, rules are fre- 
 quently ''more, honored in the breach than in 
 the observance," still there are certain princi- 
 ples, all general in character, which, if followed, 
 will lead the beginner safely past the commoner 
 faults observed in yard ornamentation. These 
 principles are as simple and obvious in point 
 of reason as they are few in number and all 
 of them are so fundamental that no grounds, 
 of whatever size, can be tastefully embellished 
 without observing them. They might be called, 
 as they are here set forth, the ''ten command- 
 ments of ornamental gardening. ' ' 
 
 PRINCIPLES OF ARRANGEMENT 
 
 I. Preserve unbroken stretches of lawn of as 
 great length as possible in one or more places, 
 according to the size of the lot. 
 
 II. Set the tallest-growing plants nearest the 
 boundaries of the yard and those of shorter 
 
 31 
 
32 YAKD AND GARDEN 
 
 growth so that the range of height will be 
 upward and outward from the center of the 
 lawn. 
 
 III. Avoid planting next the street or avenue 
 sidewalks unless seclusion is the object. Tall- 
 growing trees, that head high, may be excepted, 
 for these, when they have attained fair height, 
 do not obstruct the view. 
 
 IV. Plant no tall-growing trees or shrubs so 
 close to the dwelling that light and air will be 
 excluded and avoid their use in small lots where 
 good lawns and flowers are desired. But if 
 sturdy, healthy trees are already established on 
 a lot upon which no building has been erected, 
 make every effort to save them and arrange 
 other plans, both of building and planting, ac- 
 cordingly. • 
 
 V. Avoid the formation of numerous sepa- 
 rate flower-beds. Avoid beds of geometric de- 
 signs on the lawn. Avoid scattered and gaudy 
 effects and ^ ^ specimen ' ' planting. 
 
 VI. Plant in a manner that will insure pleas- 
 ing vistas from the principal windows, the en- 
 trances or porches of the dwelling. 
 
 VII. Keep in mind the season of bloom of 
 different plants desired as well as their height 
 at maturity and aim for a succession of flowers. 
 
HOW TO PLAN 
 
 33 
 
34 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 Keep the color of bloom also in mind to avoid 
 color discords. 
 
 VIII. Avoid overplanting as well as under- 
 planting. Simplicity rather than ornateness 
 should be the aim. The smaller the area to 
 be planted, the smaller should be the materials 
 employed. Do not attempt too much; consider 
 the space available and do not overload it, 
 reckon the time that can be devoted to garden- 
 ing and do not overtax it. 
 
 IX. Do not establish purposeless walks on 
 small grounds. Curve or bend no walk without 
 some apparent reason, as, for instance, to avoid 
 an obstacle. Do not make purposeless use of 
 garden ornaments or structures — pergolas, ar- 
 bors, summer-houses, sun-dials, etc. 
 
 X. Plan before 3^ou plant, for planting with- 
 out a plan is as certain to beget error as build- 
 ing a house without the architect's blue-print; 
 and plan to make a picture. 
 
 The novice may feel that, if it is necessary 
 to keep these rules in mind, planning is not 
 the simple matter it has been represented to 
 be. Still, once he begins, he will find that it 
 is prosaic common sense which dictates these 
 principles and that, in no small measure, prac- 
 tical and economical considerations enter into 
 
HOW TO PLAN 35 
 
 their conception. He will find also that he is 
 bound to observe most of them, consciously or 
 unconsciously, in j^lanning even the smallest 
 yard or garden. For instance, it is hardly 
 necessary to caution him against setting dwarf 
 plants behind those of taller growth, and it 
 should be similarly superfluous to advise him to 
 consider color, character and season of bloom. 
 He could not progress far with his planning be- 
 fore questions would arise involving all these 
 points and, at the same time, a majority of the 
 other rules of the ten recited. 
 
 PLAN ON PAPER 
 
 So far as the actual work of planning is con- 
 cerned, it is best begun by obtaining paper 
 ruled to scale or else by ruling paper to use as 
 a substitute. A convenient scale is one where 
 the lines are one-eighth of an inch apart and 
 so ruled horizontally and vertically that one- 
 eighth inch squares are formed. Let each di- 
 vision thus obtained represent a square foot of 
 the yard. If the lot is fifty feet wide, there 
 should be, of course, fifty lines as long in eighths 
 as the lot is long in feet. If, however, the lot is 
 small, larger divisions with the lines farther 
 apart may be employed, or if the grounds are 
 
36 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 too large to make the eighth-inch scale practical, 
 two or three feet instead of one may be allowed 
 to each division. 
 
 Carefully indicate on the plan the location 
 of all objects which are to remain permanently, 
 allowing to each the exact amomit of space it oc- 
 cupies. If a house is standing on the lot, or 
 a stable, shed or other building, show on the 
 plan the shape and size of each. If a tree is 
 among these permanent objects, indicate not 
 only its location, but also the area of ground 
 sheltered by its spread of branches. Irregu- 
 larities in the surface of the ground, if they 
 are to remain, should also be clearly outlined. 
 
 Make sure that everything designated to re- 
 main is necessarily permanent, and, in. this con- 
 nection, once more let the fact be emphasized 
 that in small city yards trees are not always of 
 first importance. It is better in many instances 
 to rid the ground entirely of a half-lifeless, 
 shapeless specimen than to arrange everything 
 else to fit its requirements. 
 
 When all objects and surface irregularities 
 of a permanent nature have been finally indi- 
 cated upon the diagram, the planner can turn 
 his attention to the making of his picture. 
 And let him bear in mind that it is a picture he 
 
HOW TO PLAN 37 
 
 is making. It is to be an individual whole, an 
 area separate from other areas, possessing its 
 own character, with every part and feature con- 
 tributing its value to the homogeneous effect. 
 House and yard are to ])ecome a united whole ; 
 ornamentation is to harmonize with architec- 
 ture; there is not to be a Jioiise and lot, but a 
 home. 
 
 HARMONY OF EFFECT 
 
 Planning with this end in view at once recalls 
 what has already been said of purposeless 
 planting. Do not imagine that it is enough to 
 scatter trees, shrubs and flowers promiscuously 
 over the place, for a yard planted in such a 
 fashion is without central idea and betrays a 
 lack of judgment, care or creative ability on the 
 part of the planter. Mere planting without 
 purpose is almost invariably without value as 
 ornament. 
 
 Naturally, on small lots, the residence will 
 be the central figure. Plan, then, to keep it so. 
 Make it unlikely that any one will remark any 
 individual feature surrounding it or even the 
 house itself — it is the home that is to be re- 
 marked. Strive to do for this house what a 
 camera lens does frequently for a landscape. 
 It reduces the importance of prominent or indi- 
 
38 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 vidual objects, it will be remembered, and 
 brings into immediate view in the resultant pic- 
 ture all the details as a whole and, more than 
 this, shuts off extraneous and irrelevant sur- 
 roundings, which might serve to distract atten- 
 tion. One sees first on the photograph the 
 whole of the picture and later he sees the de- 
 tails. 
 
 Plan, therefore, for the whole. This nat- 
 urally means planning for harmonious effect 
 which, in time, suggests careful consideration 
 of the value of each plant selected in its rela- 
 tion to the whole and not in the light of its own 
 individual value. This is the difficult point for 
 the beginner to master. He reads alluring de- 
 scriptions of various plants and, forgetting his 
 picture, remembers only these details ; he mag- 
 nifies the part and detracts from the composite. 
 As a result we have not only the scattered 
 planting so often seen but that other barrier 
 to effective ornamentation of the home grounds, 
 senseless specimen-planting. 
 
 Opposed to such methods is the mass plant- 
 ing which alone will add character and strength 
 and a sense of unity to the place. Once the 
 value of this is grasped the beginner is not 
 likely to go far astray in his planning. He 
 
HOW TO PLAN 
 
 39 
 
 Vcud Plantint; in whicli Tiw is made the (enter 
 
40 YAED AND GAEDEN 
 
 would, for instance, no more think of cutting a 
 geometric flower-bed figure in the center of his 
 lawn than he would think of planting a secret- 
 order emblem of scarlet geraniums and coleus 
 in the heart of a forest landscape. On the con- 
 trary the greensward would appeal to him as 
 his canvas upon which, painter-like, he is to 
 produce his picture. He would demand, not 
 isolation for his flowers, but a neighborly back- 
 ground, and an informal border rather than a 
 formal bed in which to grow them. 
 
 HEIGHT AND COLOR 
 
 Begin the plan, then, with the yard bounda- 
 ries. Establish here the backgrounds, and 
 plant from them toward the center. Should a 
 board fence serve as one boundary, vines may 
 be trained over it, converting it into as effective 
 a background as one. could desire. A line of 
 shrubs or of tall-growing perennials could serve 
 as another, a hedge of roses or privet as still 
 another, or indeed, anything of the sort that 
 the planner may desire. 
 
 Carefully indicate on the diagram where each 
 is to be planted and the space it- is to occupy. 
 Designate each mark set down by a number or 
 letter and, at the bottom of the plan, or on sep- 
 
HOW TO PLAN 41 
 
 arate paper, set down the number or letter and 
 after it the name of the plant it indicates. The 
 number required of each can be readily ascer- 
 tained by allowing for necessary distance be- 
 tween plants on the plan itself. 
 
 The planner will not proceed far with this 
 process before he will find it necessary, for the 
 sake of harmony in height and color, to con- 
 sider both qualities when he selects the various 
 plants he may desire. He will also be obliged 
 to consider soil and light conditions. He might 
 find, for instance, that what he desires is a 
 hardy perennial attaining a height of twenty- 
 four or thirty inches, whose flower is white, and 
 which will thrive in a heavy soil in a situation 
 exposed to the full rays of the sun. If such be 
 his requirement, based upon the idea of the ef- 
 fect as a ivliole, would it not be manifestly 
 absurd for him to select a plant attaining a 
 height of six inches or six feet, demanding half 
 shade for its welfare and producing a red 
 flower! Yet, absurd as the idea is, this is fre- 
 quently done and the planter, moreover, won- 
 ders why he is not satisfied with the result 
 produced. 
 
 So the planner, in selecting his plants, must 
 keep in mind not only the requirements of his 
 
42 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 picture but he must have consideration, too, for 
 the requirements of the materials with which 
 he works. He should remember also that there 
 are five or six months in the year when his yard 
 should be like another room to his residence, 
 and he should strive to provide a succession of 
 bloom. It is inadvisable, however, to sacrifice 
 unity to gain this end. In other words, a suc- 
 cession of bloom is not as important as is the 
 exclusion from the plan of too many varieties 
 of plants. 
 
 SLOW PLANNING AND PLANTING 
 
 It is best to proceed slowly with planning and 
 still more slowly with planting. A yard can 
 not be effectively embellished in a season — the 
 picture can not be painted in a summer. It is 
 advisable to plant the boundaries first, setting 
 out the heavier stock, carefully cultivating it 
 until it is well established and comes in turn 
 to suggest to the gardener many opportunities 
 for effective planting against the background 
 it affords. Too often the error is made of 
 planting all at once only to gain as a result an 
 unsatisfactory effect. Rather than encounter 
 the discouragement that such an unfortunate 
 outcome may cause, and to avoid, also, useless 
 
HOW TO PLAN 
 
 43 
 
 loss of time, money and labor, it wonld be far 
 better to postpone some of the planting until 
 the following season. By then a better esti- 
 mate will be had of the effectiveness of the 
 work already done and a more complete idea 
 may be formed of the planting still to l)e done. 
 
 Wall-planting- — Kesult of Careful Planning 
 
 This suggests the advantage of the plan that 
 is carefully drawn and executed. It can be 
 added to from time to time, from season to 
 season, as the picture develops in the planner's 
 mind, and always it will serve as a valuable 
 and almost indispensable key to the names of 
 the various plants employed. 
 
CHAPTER IV 
 
 LAWNS 
 
 Nothing adds more to a city home than a 
 fresh and velvety lawn. Nothing, however, is 
 more seldom seen. Still, if properly planted 
 and tended, good lawns are not difficult to 
 achieve. The chief cause of failure is in per- 
 mitting hasty turfing immediately upon the 
 completion of building operations. 
 
 PREPARATION OF THE SOIL 
 
 No proper consideration is had for soil con- 
 ditions. It may be that in excavating for the 
 cellar, sand or clay has been thrown upon the 
 old surface soil to a depth of a foot or more. 
 Mixed with this are pieces of board and brick, 
 chips of stone, and not infrequently concrete. 
 It should be apparent to any one that turf laid 
 on such soil as this can not succeed, yet in al- 
 most three-fourths of the instances where grass 
 *' refuses to grow" this is the immediate cause 
 of the trouble. 
 
 44 
 
LAWNS 45 
 
 To make a good lawn from turf or from seed, 
 the first essential is to give it a foundation of 
 good soil worked to a considerable depth. It 
 is really impossible to get soil too good for a 
 good lawn, and while the cultivation of this soil 
 to a depth of one foot is absolutely necessary, 
 it is far better to work it thoroughly to a depth 
 of two feet. If the ground about the home is 
 good and this good soil runs to a depth of a 
 foot, the first thing to do is to plow or spade 
 it thoroughly. But if the ground be poor the 
 preliminary step must be its improvement. 
 
 When it is considered that the grass of the 
 lawn is a permanent crop, the necessity for 
 thorough cultivation at the start is apparent. 
 Go about this by removing, as far as possible, 
 such soil as offers no encouragement to culti- 
 vation and substituting for it soil that is rich 
 and fertile enough to insure a thick heavy crop 
 of grass. The thorough working of all soil 
 which is to be the foundation of the lawn, means 
 first to rid it of foreign substances which are 
 detrimental to plant growth of any sort — split 
 and torn roots, stones, bricks and such rubbish. 
 Then plow or spade, going to a depth of at least 
 one foot, and pulverize the soil by using a 
 spade, hoe or harrow, adding while this last 
 
46 YARD AND GAEDEN 
 
 process is carried forward, fertilizer in the form 
 of manure. 
 
 FERTILIZING AND PLOWING 
 
 Well-rotted cow manure is the best fertilizer 
 to apply; it imparts humus as well as plant 
 food, and adds something to the ground upon 
 which the plants may feed season after season. 
 It is often advisable to apply also a thin dress- 
 ing of air-slacked lime, plowing this in or spad- 
 ing it in at the time the ground is first broken, 
 or adding it later after the fertilizer has been 
 thoroughly incorporated with the soil. In 
 getting the soil in condition for turfing or the 
 sowing of seeds, bear in mind always that the 
 lawn, if it is to be successful, must be properly 
 started. Flowers can be planted each season, 
 lifted and transplanted, shrubs can be reset and 
 all with comparatively little bother and little 
 work. But not so with the lawn. If it has to 
 be remade the operation means not only much 
 trouble and much labor but, for a considerable 
 period, an unsightly yard. 
 
 If the place to be planted in grass is small, 
 the cultivation, of course, can be more thor- 
 ough — it can not be too thorough in any event. 
 On larger areas, though, nothing suggested 
 
48 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 should be overlooked. Plow deeply and harrow 
 thoroughly. If, to begin with, the* land appears 
 to be impossible, make every effort to render 
 it as fit as can be while the plowing and harrow- 
 ing are in progress. If the soil is deficient in 
 humus begin the foundation of the lawn fully a 
 year before it is desired to seed it. Plant a 
 crop of cow peas and in the fall plow it under, 
 adding immediately a dressing of lime. In the 
 early spring following, apply a dressing of well- 
 rotted manure, and plow and harrow again. 
 Make the surface soil fine and level. It is al- 
 ways best to let the ground stand for three or 
 four weeks untouched, so that any weeds may 
 germinate and show themselves and be eradi- 
 cated by another harrowing. 
 
 When the area to be put to lawn is limited, 
 as it is in the case of small city residences, it 
 is necessary, first of all, to determine whether 
 the soil, as it lies, is suitable for a good lawn. 
 If it is not, waste no time with it but have it 
 carted away and good loam substituted. Work 
 this thoroughly and if it is in the fall — the 
 best time to begin lawn-making — top-dress it 
 with manure and let it remain somewhat 
 roughly heaped, that is, without pulverizing or 
 smoothing. The winter's frost and the alternate 
 
LAWNS 49 
 
 freezing and thawing will do more to put ihe 
 soil in excellent condition than a month's spad- 
 ing, hoeing and raking. 
 
 TURF 
 
 Once the ground is got into shape, the planter 
 may proceed to establish his lawn by one of 
 two methods; he may use turf or seed. The 
 former is probably most frequently employed 
 in cities because it gives immediate results. 
 It is quickly laid and quickly establishes itself, 
 and if properly laid, is usually satisfactory, 
 provided, of course, it is well-selected turf, free 
 from weeds or rank grasses that are unsightly 
 and difficult to manage. In laying sod be sure 
 that the edges of the turf are brought closely 
 together and later fill in the spaces that may re- 
 main with loose soil. The chief advantage of 
 turf is the fact that it can be laid at any time 
 when the ground can be worked, and if estab- 
 lished on such a foundation of cultivated soil 
 as has been described as necessary for either 
 turf or seed, it will grow. But it must be wa- 
 tered persistently and thoroughly and it de- 
 mands, moreover, much attention during the 
 first year while it is establishing itself. 
 
 It is important in making the lawn from turf 
 
50 
 
 YARD AND GARDF^N 
 
 to select the turf carefully. Too often this is 
 intrusted to ignorant laborers who use no 
 judgment but take whatever is clasest at hand 
 and easiest to obtain, regardless of whether it 
 is overgrown with weeds or spotted with un- 
 desirable grasses. Once satisfactory turf is 
 obtained, laid evenlv and closely and the unions 
 
 f^ 
 
 Sii!i-dial in Corner of C'itv Lawn 
 
 are filled with loose earth, it is necessary to beat 
 it. This is essential in order to insure intimate 
 contact with the underlying soil, and if this is 
 not secured the planter of the turf will have 
 gained nothing. The roots will refuse to take 
 hold of the under-soil, and the grass after a few 
 days will die. Watering, of course, will tend 
 
LAWNS 51 
 
 to prevent any such disaster and may be the 
 means of nursing the turfs to healthful and vig- 
 orous growth, but more frequently, if the 
 grasses do not die, they will struggle slowly 
 before they finally show signs of health and 
 vigor. 
 
 As a matter of fact, it is almost impossible 
 to obtain really good sod in any quantity. 
 Usually the turfs that are laid are filled with 
 weeds and once the sod is down and established, 
 it is almost impossible to exterminate them. 
 Then it is extremeh^ difficult to prevent patches 
 from failing utterly and leaving bare spots, 
 where new grass is established only with the 
 most painstaking care and persistence. As a 
 general thing a turf lawn c^i not be established 
 for two or three years and during that time it 
 will almost invariably appear uneven and 
 patchy, lacking uniformity of color and wanting 
 in that freshness and texture which comes from 
 proper seeding alone. 
 
 THE SEEDED LAWN 
 
 The seeded lawn established on a foundation 
 of soil properly prepared is usually the most 
 satisfactory lawn in the long run. Prepare the 
 seed bed — ^after working the soil as already out- 
 
52 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 lined — by finely pulverizing the surface and 
 making the top soil perfectly smooth. It 
 should, of course, be freed from all rubbish, 
 such as roots, stones and the like. Sow the 
 seed in April or May or in September. In the 
 South, however, seeding can be done in Febru- 
 ary and November. If the spring is selected 
 sow the seed as soon as the ground can be got 
 into fit condition. Broadcast the seed. Dis- 
 tribute it evenly over the entire surface of the 
 ground and at the rate of not less than four 
 bushels to the acre — five would be better. For 
 smaller areas use at least one quart of seed 
 to every 300 square feet. In England, noted 
 for its fine velvety lawns, ly^ cwt. is used per 
 acre and one pound per square rod. 
 
 It is hardly necessary to suggest that a day 
 should be selected for the sowing that is quiet, 
 for wind will bear the fine seed away and half 
 of it will be wasted, while an even distribution 
 will be practically impossible. When sowing 
 keep the hand close to the ground and swing the 
 arm freely, taking care to scatter the seed thor- 
 oughly, not allowing it to bunch. Do not hesi- 
 tate to sow thickly. Thick sowing is an advan- 
 tage in more ways than one. In the first place 
 it prevents weeds from getting a firm foothold, 
 
LAWNS 53 
 
 for they are crowded out by the grass seedlings, 
 and in the second place it insures a finer grass 
 leaf which in turn means a "velvety" lawn. 
 Usually it is advisable to go over the ground 
 twice. The first time sow from east to west 
 and the second time from north to south. After 
 the seed has been broadcasted, rake or harrow 
 lightly the entire area so that the seeds are cov- 
 ered very thinly. Follow this by rolling and 
 if you desire the best results never omit this 
 finishing process; it firms the ground and in- 
 sures germination of the seed, while it gives the 
 seedlings a firm foot-hold when they send their 
 roots forth in quest of food. 
 
 SEED FORMULiE 
 
 Buy good seed. This is an economy and an 
 essential for good lawns. The well-known 
 Kentucky blue-grass is the best of all for the 
 lawn. It is not difficult to grow ; indeed, where 
 it refuses to grow, soil conditions are such that 
 no permanent grass will thrive. Kentucky 
 blue combines more desirable qualities, prob- 
 ably, than any other grass, and on this account 
 it should be made the foundation and principal 
 ingredient of any mixture that is applied. The 
 other ingredients of the mixture are important 
 
54 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 for various reasons. Chief among these is 
 the fact that Kentucky blue-grass does not ger- 
 minate quickly; if it is planted in the fall, for 
 instance, there will be no results until the next 
 spring, and if sown in the spring it will be some 
 time before it makes even a light covering for 
 the soil. 
 
 Various formulae are offered by dealers in 
 seeds, and where the dealer is known to be re- 
 liable and is willing to furnish the purchaser 
 with an analysis of his mixture, it is safe to pur- 
 chase it and probably the best thing, all circum- 
 stances considered, to do. But be sure in any 
 event that the Kentucky blue-grass which 
 should form the bulk of the mixture is ^^re- 
 cleaned fancy, ' ' and do not accept any seed that 
 weighs less than twenty pounds to the bushel. 
 The object of the mixture is to insure im- 
 mediate results from the sowing while the blue- 
 grass is germinating, but incidentally the extra 
 grasses mixed with the blue-grass serve addi- 
 tional purposes. In the first place mixtures 
 result in a denser turf because grasses thrive 
 better when grown in variety. Then, too, the 
 Kentucky blue-grass has some undesirable fea- 
 tures and it is these that the other seeds in the 
 mixture will correct. The Kentucky blue, for 
 
LAWNS 55 
 
 instance, does not carpet the ground as closely 
 as other varieties and when mowed shows 
 patches of soil and brown. 
 
 The best formula for general purposes is as 
 follows : 
 
 Kentucky blue-grass 10 lbs. 
 
 Rhode Island bent 3 lbs. 
 
 English rye 3 lbs. 
 
 Fancy redtop 4 lbs. 
 
 In any event this can be used as a basic mix- 
 ture and by substituting various grasses suited 
 to various situations for a portion of the Ken- 
 tucky blue-grass, the mixture will be found gen- 
 erally effective. 
 
 Other mixtures are as follows : 
 
 FOR SHADED SPOTS 
 
 Poa pratensis (Kentucky blue) 40% 
 
 Poa nemoralis (wood-meadow grass) , 40% 
 
 Cynosurus cristatus (crested dog's-tail) 15% 
 
 Festuca heterophylla (various-leaved fescue) 5% 
 
 FOR SANDY SOILS 
 
 Poa pratensis (Kentucky blue) 20% 
 
 Agrostis canina ( Rhode Island bent) 35% 
 
 Agrostis alba, var. stolonifera (creeping bent) . 35% 
 
 Festuca ovina (sheep's fescue) 10% 
 
 FOR CLAY SOILS 
 
 Poa pratensis (Kentucky blue) 45% 
 
 Agrostis alba, var. vulgaris ( Redtop) 35% 
 
 Loliuni perenne, var. tenue (tine-leaved English rye) .... 20% 
 
 FOR SLOPES AND TERRACES 
 
 Poa pratensis (Kentucky blue) 15% 
 
 Agrostis alba, var. stolonifera (creeping bent) 35% 
 
 Cynosurus cristatus (crested dog's-tail) 30% 
 
 Poa compressa (Canada blue) 20% 
 
56 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 FEEDING THE GRASS 
 
 Wlien a lawn is properly treated in the pre- 
 liminary stages and manure is incorporated 
 with the soil as it is spaded or plowed and raked 
 or harrowed, little need be done in the way of 
 feeding the grass for six or seven years, but 
 where the soil is thin or the lawn has been es- 
 tablished for some time fertilizer of some sort 
 is necessary. It should be remembered that the 
 grass is feeding continuously and exhausting 
 the plant food of the soil. What it is taking 
 from the soil is not given back in any degree, 
 because the grass is mowed and the mowings 
 carted away. Then, too, it should be remem- 
 bered that grass is a permanent crop and it is 
 impossible, once it is established, to assist it by 
 the cultivation which it is possible to give to 
 other crops, whether they be flowers or vegeta- 
 bles. 
 
 Fertility can be added by spreading over the 
 surface a dressing of organic manure. Use 
 cow manure if it is possible to obtain it and 
 place it on the lawn after the ground is frozen 
 — this prevents the cutting of wheels of the cart 
 or wheelbarrow into the sod. Be sure that the 
 manure used is well rotted, that it is old. 
 
LAWNS 
 
 57 
 
 
 CD 
 
58 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 Fresh manure is not only damaging to the grass 
 but is ahnost certain to be filled with minute 
 seeds of various weeds. Let the manure re- 
 main until early spring and a double benefit 
 will be derived from the dressing. It will not 
 only impart plant food to the soil, but it will 
 serve as an effective mulch which will to a great 
 extent overcome the injury caused by the alter- 
 nate thawing and freezing during the winter. 
 When the grass shows a vigorous growth in 
 the spring, rake the coarser material from the 
 lawn and follow this by rolling. 
 
 In the spring it is best to top-dress the lawn 
 with an application of finely ground bone meal 
 mixed with hard-wood ashes. Combine the mix- 
 ture by using equal parts of each by weight, 
 and spread the fertilizer on the lawn until it 
 takes upon itself a grayish appearance, or to 
 be more exact at the rate of one ton to the acre. 
 It is best to select a day for applying this top 
 dressing that is still and promises a light rain. 
 Another fertilizer that has a beneficial effect on 
 lawns is nitrate of soda. Apply this at the 
 rate of one ounce to the square yard, and make 
 sure, if it is applied in dry form, that it is broad- 
 casted immediately preceding a shower. It is 
 perhaps best to apply this to the lawn by dis- 
 
LAWNS 59 
 
 solving it in water, using one pint to forty gal- 
 lons of water. The effect of nitrate of soda 
 will be observed almost immediately; the grass 
 will take on a fresher color, a deeper, richer 
 green, and will make vigorous growth. Hard- 
 wood ashes, however, are especially valuable as 
 food for lawns of Kentucky blue-grass. Bone 
 meal is one of the most permanent fertilizers, 
 and is chiefly valuable, so far as grasses are 
 concerned, for its pliosphates. Lime used on 
 the lawn should be air-slacked; it is best as a 
 winter dressing, and should be applied at the 
 rate of a pint cup full to the square yard. 
 
 ROLLING THE LAWN 
 
 The application of fertilizer is by no means 
 the only thing necessary to maintain a lawn in 
 good condition. The turf must be rolled and 
 the grass mowed and watered. Some indica- 
 tion of the value of rolling has already been 
 given in this chapter. It is important and 
 should never be neglected where the best re- 
 sults are sought. The rolling is necessary in 
 order to make the roots as firm as possible and 
 should be applied frequently. The heavier the 
 roller the better it is for the lawn. In the 
 spring as soon as the ground becomes work- 
 
60 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 able and the grass starts into growing, the en- 
 tire surface of the lawn should be rolled to 
 overcome the effects of the alternate freezing 
 and thawing during the winter months, which 
 has a tendency to loosen the surface soil. It 
 will be readily observed that the heavier the 
 soil and the more moist it is the more necessity 
 there is for rolling. In using the roller it is 
 best to roll in two directions at least, as was 
 suggested for broadcasting the seed — that is, 
 from north to south and from east to west. In 
 selecting the roller obtain one that will repre- 
 sent a weight of a thousand pounds at least. 
 Very frequenth^ it will be found that old lawns 
 which appear to be beyond the power of cul- 
 tivation to bring back into condition, require 
 nothing more than repeated applications of the 
 roller, and in the case of new lawns very poor 
 and disappointing results will follow the fail- 
 ure of the planter to make use of this essential 
 lawn device. 
 
 MOWING 
 
 No lawn can be kept in good condition un- 
 less it is frequently mowed. The best method 
 to follow in cutting the grass is to mow it once 
 a week with the knives of the machine set high. 
 
LAWNS 
 
 61 
 
 K 
 
62 YAED AND GARDEN 
 
 This is nmch better than mowing it at inter- 
 vals of two weeks with the knives set low. Still 
 it must not be considered that any regular in- 
 terval can be designated for the mowing pro- 
 cess; conditions must govern the cutting. If 
 the growth is rapid, mowing may be necessary 
 oftener than once a week, but where the lawn 
 can be gone over with the machine at least 
 once every six or seven days, the knives on the 
 mower should not be set closer than two inches 
 to the ground. In cases where the grass has 
 been allowed to get unusually long, the knives 
 should be set even higher for the first two or 
 three mowings and then brought gradually 
 lower until the proper distance from the 
 ground is obtained. 
 
 It is often a question whether the clippings 
 resulting from the use of the mower should be 
 left on the lawn or removed. If, however, the 
 lawn is mowed frequently and the grass is kept 
 at a uniform height of about two inches the 
 clippings if left on the lawn will do no harm, 
 but, on the contrary, very often will prove a 
 benefit inasmuch as they will act, in some de- 
 gree at least, as mulch and protect the roots, 
 especially in the early spring, from the scorch- 
 ing rays of the sun. But if the grass has been 
 
LAWNS 63 
 
 allowed to gain a considerable growth, it will 
 be positively detrimental to permit the clip- 
 pings to remain. This is especially true where 
 the soil is inclined to be heavy and the moisture 
 it contains is not quickly given off. In such 
 instances the cut grass hanging closely about 
 the roots and there rotting will be the cause 
 of not a little subsequent trouble. On lighter 
 soils there is less danger from leaving the clip- 
 pings on the lawn, and in some instances it is 
 even better to do so. 
 
 Grass that is cut on dull cloudy days will 
 be found to yield itself more readily to the 
 knives of the mower, and in addition to this 
 will show less disposition to resent even close 
 mowing than when a bright hot day is selected 
 for the operation. 
 
 WATERING 
 
 It is a fallacy to proceed with the watering 
 of a lawn on the basis that it is not good for 
 the grass to wet it while the sun is shining. If 
 watering is done as it should be it will make 
 very little difference whether the day is bright 
 or cloudy. Mere sprinkling is detrimental in 
 any event and is to be avoided, especially on 
 bright days. This method of ''watering" a 
 
64 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 lawn is undoubtedly the cause of much of the 
 trouble experienced in obtaining the best re- 
 sults where conditions would seem to indicate 
 that they should be easily attained. Instead 
 of playing a thin mist-like spray over the lawn, 
 see to it that the ground is soaked; in other 
 words, when you do water, water well. Apply 
 enough so that the water will soak in the ground, 
 saturating it for a depth of two or three inches 
 at least. Remember that the roots of grasses 
 as well as of other plants seek moisture where 
 it is to be found. If you persist in lightly 
 sprinkling your lawn the roots, instead of pene- 
 trating to the cooler depths, will persist in 
 remaining on the surface, where they soon 
 become dry and baked by the sun. If, on the 
 other hand, the roots find what they require at 
 a depth of six or eight inches or a foot below 
 the surface of the soil, they will make a growth 
 in that direction to obtain it. 
 
 In most cities, unfortunately, there are reg- 
 ulations maintained by companies supplying 
 water making it practically impossible to water 
 a lawn as it should be watered. These regula- 
 tions prohibit the use of a hose without the 
 nozzle, and this in itself is a positive handicap 
 for the owner of city property who is anxious 
 
LAWNS 
 
 65 
 
66 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 to obtain a soft and velvety lawn. Where, 
 however, regulations do not interfere, it is best 
 to water without a nozzle, letting the water 
 emerge unchecked from the hose and with the 
 force of the stream so regulated that it will not 
 wear holes in the turf. Let the end of the hose 
 rest on the grass and as the ground becomes 
 saturated with the water move it about from 
 place to place until the whole area is thoroughly 
 wet. Watering in this manner can be carried 
 on at any time of the day whether the sun is 
 bright or clouded. 
 
 WEEDS 
 
 The weed problem is one not so easily dis- 
 posed of. Frequently a splendid lawn is 
 ruined in a comparatively short time by allow- 
 ing the weeds to gain a foothold, and permit- 
 ting them to spread. Guard against any such 
 catastrophe by keeping ahead of the pests. 
 Remember that where a lawn is well kept, 
 planted on a foundation of suitable soil, weeds 
 will have a difficult time to establish themselves. 
 Be sure each time the lawn is mowed to look 
 carefully for the weeds. It is best always to 
 dig out the dandelions and plantains before the 
 mower is run over them. 
 
LAWNS 67 
 
 Occasionally an effort is made to save a lawn 
 that is overrun by these weeds, and the per- 
 plexed owner seeks for some solution which, 
 when applied, will kill the objectionable intrud- 
 ers and do no harm to the grass. Let him 
 understand now, once for all, that the only sure 
 and safe method of eradication is by removing 
 the weeds, root and all, by digging them out with 
 hand tools. No other method will relieve the 
 turf of dandelions, plantain or dock. Mowing 
 does not kill them nor does cutting them off an 
 inch or two below the surface of the soil. Both 
 dandelions and plantains seed very rapidly 
 and multiply at an enormous rate. They must 
 not, therefore, be allowed to come to seed. Ee- 
 move them or such of them as can be reached 
 by the use of some tool, and if all the root, by 
 this process, is not obtained, drop a crystal of 
 sulphate of iron in the hole made by the oper- 
 ation and this, dissolving, will kill the root re- 
 maining. A drop or two of gasoline, if more 
 convenient, can be used in place of the green 
 vitriol. It is better, however, to get out the 
 root in its entirety, than to rely on this or any 
 other chemical of strong corrosive powers, 
 which, in deadening the weed root, may also 
 injure the grass. Have at hand a box of loose 
 
68 YAUD AND GARDEN 
 
 soil and, if necessary, when the root is re- 
 moved, fill up the hole and firm the soil so that 
 the damage done is immediately repaired. 
 
 WEED GRASSES 
 
 Crab-grass is probably the worst and most 
 objectionable weed that attacks lawns. It holds 
 itself so close to the surface of the soil that the 
 blades of the mower very seldom reach it, and, 
 though it is an annual, it resows itself year after 
 year and appears in early August to render 
 almost unsightly any lawn where it has gained 
 a foothold, no matter how persistently the lawn 
 may be tended. It has broad, pale green 
 leaves, and gives a patchy appearance to the 
 general surface of the yard wherein it shows 
 itself. When cold weather approaches, the 
 crab-grass assumes a dead brownish-red color, 
 and lends to the whole area a rusty appearance 
 which very often leads the cultivator to believe 
 that his grass is parched for lack of water. 
 But no amount of watering will overcome the 
 unsightly appearance occasioned by the pres- 
 ence of crab-grass. Only one method of eradi- 
 cating this pest is effective and this is one 
 which is more troublesome than expensive. Ob- 
 tain a steel rake with sharp pointed teeth, and 
 
LAWNS 69 
 
 by means of this teai- ii[) the creei)int>- stems of 
 the weed, lifting them clear from the soil and 
 with a lawn-mower — after setting the knives 
 very low — run over the grass, cutting oif the 
 flowering heads of the intruder to prevent its 
 seeding itself. 
 
 If this operation is performed persistently 
 for one or two seasons it is possible that the 
 crab-grass can be eliminated. It is, as already 
 said, an annual and, of course, is killed by the 
 first heavy frost. If by the process outlined 
 it is prevented from seeding itself, it is likely 
 that the lawn will subsequently be free of it, 
 but it must be remembered that it is utterly 
 futile to run the mower over the grass with- 
 out first destroying the hold of the creeping 
 stems on the surface soil and lifting them 
 within the reach of the blades of the machine. 
 
 Other weed grasses which prove annoying 
 are the well-known orchard grass and Ber- 
 muda grass and occasionally timothy. The 
 Bermuda grass is chiefly objectionable because 
 it is discolored by the first touch of frost and 
 leaves the lawn that it has invaded with brown 
 patches on its surface which continue to be un- 
 sightly until winter's snow spreads a conceal- 
 ing mantle over the surface. In the South, 
 
70 
 
 YARD AND GAEDEN 
 
LAWNS 71 
 
 Bermuda grass is not objectionable, but, on the 
 contrary, is really the main dependence of those 
 desiring good lawns where the soil is light and 
 sandy. But wherever orchard grass or timothy 
 make their appearance they should be immedi- 
 ately dug up, and if this process involves the 
 rendering of the surface uneven, fill in with 
 soil as already advised and scatter lawn grass 
 seed on its surface. 
 
 INSECTS AND MOLES 
 
 Ants are the most serious of the minor in- 
 sects that infest lawns, and though they do not 
 directly attack the grasses themselves they do 
 no end of injury by loQsening the soil and tun- 
 neling under the roots. Usually the pests are 
 killed by the application of boiling water, but, 
 as this means a subsequent resowing of seed, 
 it is best to proceed against them by a method 
 at once simple and effective. Use bi-sulphite 
 of carbon; it is a heavy volatile liquid which 
 sinks quickly into the opening in the ant-hill 
 and immediately gives forth fumes which, be- 
 ing heavier than the air, penetrate at once to 
 the remotest sections of the runs in the home. 
 Apply it by pouring into a hill of average size 
 a tablespoonful of the liquid and laying over 
 
72 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 the opening a damp cloth or some substitute 
 that will serve to prevent the insects from es- 
 caping. In purchasing the bi-sulphite of car- 
 bon remember, if your druggist does not warn 
 you, that it is highly inflammable and easily 
 exploded; keep it away from the neighborhood 
 of an open fire. It can be used as effectively 
 in fighting other burrowing and tunneling in- 
 sects as in the eradication of ants. 
 
 The mole, while not often appearing in cit- 
 ies, is frequently the cause of considerable 
 trouble to the sul)urban and country resident. 
 In the course of a night or two a very few of 
 these animals, once they start their tunneling 
 process on a lawn, can cause damage that is 
 not likely to be repaired in the course of a 
 month or so. They seldom appear, however, 
 where the roller is properly used, for they pre- 
 fer to follow the line of least resistance and 
 will betake themselves to sections of the ground 
 less forbidding if the roller has packed the soil 
 as it should. Poisoned bait is sometimes used 
 in ridding a lawn area of these animals, but 
 as the mole is carnivorous, avoid applying the 
 poison in the form of grain. Poison in any 
 event is dangerous, for it may be eaten by 
 household pets or poultry instead of by the 
 
LAWNS 73 
 
 animals for which it is intended. Mole traps 
 are the safest and surest devices for ridding 
 the lawn of the intruders. 
 
 RENOVATING OLD LAWNS 
 
 Old lawns are quite as often problems as new 
 lawns. Where one person is inquiring how he 
 may establish a close soft turf for his yard, 
 nine are asking what to do to renovate their 
 old lawns. In many instances renovation is 
 impossible and where such is the case the only 
 sure method to pursue is to proceed as though 
 no lawn had ever existed on the area under 
 consideration. In short, renovate the old lawn 
 by plowing it up and planting a new one. It is 
 not meant, of course, to advise any one to pro- 
 ceed on such a radical course without due 
 thought, but to warn him against wasting time 
 and energy in work that will poorly reward him 
 in the end. When a lawn is overrun by weeds 
 — dandelions, plantains, docks or weed grasses 
 — and it appears that the eradication of these 
 will practically destroy the lawn surface, it is 
 best to begin by using at once the spade or the 
 plow. 
 
 But if the grass is not attacked by these 
 weeds and the soil appears to be in a good state 
 
74 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 of cultivation and of a proper depth, it is prob- 
 able that the problem can be solved by loosen- 
 ing the surface soil with a steel rake and sow- 
 ing seed. Seed-sowing, however, will avail 
 nothing if the lawn owes its deterioration to an 
 exhaustion of the plant food in the soil. Nor 
 will the application of fertilizer help; mere 
 dressings of bone meal or barnyard manure, 
 no matter how abundant, will not serve the 
 purpose. It is cheaper and quicker to put the 
 soil in ''good heart" by submitting it to such 
 treatment as would be meted out to virgin 
 ground. 
 
CHAPTER V 
 
 VINES 
 
 No plants lend themselves more gracefully 
 to the improvement of the small city yard than 
 vines. With these, most remarkable and sur- 
 prising effects can be attained with little ex- 
 pense and little care. Wherever they are 
 grown they add beauty to the scene, acting as 
 harmonizing agents, relieving the general ef- 
 fect of any appearance of stiffness or formal- 
 ity. Beautiful and graceful in themselves, 
 they conceal all the unsightly places and ob- 
 jects and obliterate all the harsh outlines or 
 the straight lines which are nature's abhor- 
 rence. They convert into a thing of beauty a 
 dilapidated fence, turn a stone into a verita- 
 ble mound of foliage, twist and twine them- 
 selves about a dead tree and make of it a pillar 
 of leaf and flower, or, hanging in festoons from 
 porch or window boxes, they produce a picture 
 
 75 
 
76 YAKD AND GARDEN 
 
 that varies in its form and cliarm with every 
 vagrant breeze of a summer's day. Trained 
 over arches, gates, or pergolas, they shed a 
 grateful shade and afford some shelter from 
 sudden showers. 
 
 EFFECTIVENESS OF VINES 
 
 Much of the pictures(ju.eness of the old ruins 
 of European castles owes its existence to the 
 kindly offices of the vines grown to their walls. 
 They mellow the defects and impart an at- 
 mosphere of age and permanency, and always 
 the dense green of their foliage is a relief to 
 the eyes in summer and soothing to tired and 
 discordant nerves. They will grow very fre- 
 quently where other plants will not thrive and, 
 once gaining a foothold, they may thrust their 
 stems even to the highest point of a hrick wall 
 of some city office building. Here, clinging to 
 the masonry, they weather every storm, resist 
 the burning rays of the sun and transform the 
 building as neither carpenter nor painter can 
 do. Whether they are grown on the walls and 
 terraces of the mansion or on the limited 
 grounds of the cottage they never fail to pro- 
 duce an effective picture. Moreover, with their 
 dense green foliage as a background, the artis- 
 
VINES 77 
 
 tic planter can work wonders with flowers and 
 shrubs which otherwise might prove too bizarre 
 for use in small yards. 
 
 Indeed, the owner of a city lot who is intent 
 upon its ornamentation can do no better than 
 to start upon his work with the planting of 
 vines. Before he finally determines to remove 
 some object which he considers an eyesore, let 
 him first consider whether a vine would not 
 only conceal the object but convert it into some- 
 thing to be desired as an acquisition in his 
 general plan of operations. 
 
 Vines are cheap and easily obtained. They 
 are to be had wherever a wood is to be found, 
 or, lacking such natural nursery, they quickly 
 respond to the treatment which even an inex- 
 perienced amateur can afford them, as they root 
 readily from cuttings, or ''slips." They can 
 also be grown from seed, all the annuals being 
 obtained by this method almost exclusively and 
 many of the perennials doing almost equally 
 as well when similarly treated. 
 
 CLASSIFICATION OF VINES 
 
 Vines may be roughly divided into twiners, 
 leaf-twisters, tendril-bearers, those with aerial 
 roots and those which gain support by means 
 
78 • YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 of prickles or hooks and which usually require 
 tying to a trellis or support of some sort. The 
 morning-glories are familiar examples of the 
 first, the clematis of the second, the grape of 
 the third, the ivy of the fourth and the climb- 
 ing, or to be more exact, the scrambling rose 
 of the fifth. 
 
 The larger number of the climbing plants 
 that are cultivated, are those which make their 
 ascent by twining about their supports or em- 
 ploying special organs in the form of roots or 
 tendrils with which to effect their rise. It is 
 interesting to note that each species of twining 
 plant winds in its- own direction about its sup- 
 port, following this course under all normal or 
 ordinary conditions. The morning-glories, for 
 instance, twine in a direction which is opposed 
 to the movement of the sun, while the hops pre- 
 fer a course which is in the direction of the 
 sun's movement. 
 
 With this rough classification as a basis a 
 long list of climbing plants suitable for culti- 
 vation on the home grounds might be given. 
 All are well equipped in foliage, flower or 
 berry, suitable for use in the city yard. And 
 of these there are varieties for almost every 
 situation and every purpose. There are annu- 
 
VINES 
 
 79 
 
 W ild (ii-.^K' From \\<i()(l- 111 ( ity N .mi 
 
80 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 als and perennials — those wliicli spring from 
 seed and make their full growth and flower in 
 a season's thne, then perish with the first touch 
 of frost, and those which persist year after 
 year, either coming up from the root each 
 spring or putting forth their leaves and flowers 
 from the old stems. 
 
 In most instances where permanent effects 
 are desired the hardy perennial vines should 
 be selected. Many of these are known as 
 shrubs by those who insist on an exact ter- 
 minology, the body of the plant being woody 
 and enduring year after year. Others are 
 herbs dying to the ground each fall, the root 
 alone subsisting from season to season. The 
 chief value of these is their foliage, for of this 
 the amateur can always feel assured, though 
 there are, of course, many vines which bear 
 flowers, but which, owing to the conditions un- 
 der which they are raised, frequently fail to 
 produce blossoms. 
 
 The annuals are valuable as a rule for both 
 their foliage and flowers. The morning-glory, 
 which has already been used as an illustration, 
 is an example. The annual vines are best 
 adapted for quick concealment of unsightly ob- 
 jects and the most of them make rapid growth 
 
VINES 81 
 
 which soon covers arcli, trellis, or support of 
 whatever nature it ma}' he. 
 
 SOIL FOR VINES 
 
 While it has been suggested that the common 
 perennial and annual vines are not exacting as 
 to the conditions demanded for their health, 
 still it is a fact that their requirements and 
 culture are too often given but small consider- 
 ation by the planter. They are frequently set 
 out when preparation has been meager, estab- 
 lished in poor soil sometimes made up largely 
 of rubbisli or of earth from which all the food 
 has been extracted by other plants. Still, even 
 under such conditions, vines struggle into leaf 
 and occasionally into flower, but it should be 
 remembered that it is futile to expect a free 
 and luxuriant growth — which is a vine's chief 
 charm — ^where the plants are neglected, or per- 
 haps actually abused. It is common to observe 
 a plant obtained from a florist or nurseryman 
 turned out from a pot into a hole barely large 
 enough to receive the ball of earth and dug in 
 ground which has not been prepared by culti- 
 vation of any sort for the reception of the 
 roots. Naturally such treatment will not lend 
 encouragement to the best and healthiest 
 
82 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 growth of the vine. It is far better to make 
 too much preparation than to starve plants by 
 too little. The ideal method to pursue, whether 
 the vines be annuals or perennials, is to trench 
 the ground thoroughly where they are to go, 
 either working well-rotted manure into the old 
 compost or filling in with a rich, fresh, friable 
 loam. 
 
 Good sound loam is the best soil for the 
 greatest number of climbing plants and, unless 
 the amateur is experienced with varieties which 
 are difficult to grow, he will find that this soil, 
 with the addition of manure, will insure him 
 excellent results. Where soils are stitf they 
 can frequently be put into good condition by 
 the addition of leaf mold, some sand and the 
 manure, and where the soils are thin or sandy 
 the addition of loam together with the manure 
 will often prove effective. 
 
 CULTIVATION 
 
 If plants are ordered from a nursery and 
 are received in pots, they may be planted out 
 at almost any season between early spring and 
 late autumn. In planting those that have been 
 grown in pots, they should be turned out gently, 
 disturbing as little as possible the root ball. 
 
VINES 83 
 
 Make sure that the hole prepared for the re- 
 ception of the plant is ample and that the roots 
 when they begin to reach out into the new soil 
 will not encounter obstacles in the form of 
 stones or unyielding clods to impede their 
 progress and stunt the plant by starvation. 
 It is usually best after planting to make the 
 soil firm and solid. Then see to it at once that 
 the plants have something upon which to lift 
 themselves until they fasten by the natural 
 means they employ to the permanent support 
 upon which they are to climb upward. When 
 vines require tying, the operation should be- 
 gin immediately, even though the stem to be 
 operated upon may be exceedingly short. It 
 may perhaps be of some service to suggest 
 that where vines are to be established in soil 
 already crowded with the roots of trees or 
 shrubs, a bottomless wooden cask or box may 
 be sunk and this in turn tilled with a suitable 
 compost which will enable the climber to make 
 sufficient root growth to support itself until it 
 has gained strength and can hold its own with 
 the other roots. 
 
 While it is important to give consideration 
 to the proper preparation of the soil where 
 the climber is to be planted, it must not be 
 
84 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 forgotten that it will respond generously to 
 good treatment accorded after it has estab- 
 lished itself. Only too frequently vigorous 
 vines display signs of failure and decrepitude 
 because their roots fail to find food enough 
 to supply them with sustenance. Such plants 
 
 
 r% 
 
 
 
 %^ 
 
 Flowers of the Clematis 
 ( Clematis Juchniani) 
 
 can be re-invigorated and maintained in healthy, 
 thriving condition by annual applications of 
 manure and an occasional top dressing with 
 fresh soil and artificial fertilizers. Liquid ma- 
 nure, wherever it can be applied without of- 
 fensive effects, will be found the most rapid 
 agent in restoring a plant's strength and vigor. 
 
VINES 85 
 
 Then also it must be remembered that vines 
 growing against walls where they are subjected 
 to the direct and reflected rays of the sun re- 
 quire suitable quantities of water and, in dry 
 weather, should be bountifully supplied with 
 moisture. Apply the water by letting it soak 
 into the soil until the ground is thoroughly sat- 
 urated for a depth of half a dozen inches or 
 more. 
 
 Another point in the cultivation of some vines 
 is that a few of them thrive best when the lower 
 part of the stems is shaded from the direct 
 etfects of the sun, even though the top portions 
 may be in the direct line of the sun's rays. 
 Such a vine is the clematis. Its requirement 
 in this respect is easily satisfied by planting 
 in front of it or near it some small plant which 
 will supply the shade it desires. 
 
 PRUNING 
 
 The beginner is likely to hear much on the 
 subject of the necessity for pruning permanent 
 vines, and no doubt he will encounter many op- 
 posing opinions. It is practically impossible, 
 however, to detail the various treatments 
 which the different plants require. It must be 
 remembered that some vines produce their 
 
86 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 flowers on the old wood matured the season 
 before, and in such instances the strong growths 
 should not be cut back, but the weak ones, how- 
 ever, should be sacrificed without hesitation 
 and all decayed wood should be cut out imme- 
 diately upon its discovery. Other vines pro- 
 duce their bloom on the young shoots of the 
 current season and in such cases it is the old 
 wood that should be eliminated and the fresh 
 young shoots encouraged. Still others flower 
 only on spurs that are sent out by the old wood 
 and these climbers are best pruned by cutting 
 out the weakly shoots and reducing the length 
 of those remaining. But in every case a study 
 of the particular species is essential. In some 
 instances where the climbers have been set in 
 position where they are not on parade, it is 
 probably the wisest policy to limit the pruning 
 to which they are submitted to the cutting out 
 of the dead wood. This, however, is not to be 
 taken as a general policy to follow for, wher- 
 ever the best results are desired, pruning will 
 be found to be essential. Even the freest 
 rambling rose is materially benefited and im- 
 proved by pruning which, to the novice, may 
 appear to be extraordinarily and uselessly se- 
 vere. Clematis, too, must be cut back if it is 
 
VINES 87 
 
 to i^roduce the best results of which it is capa- 
 ble. 
 
 In decorating a yard the gardener will find 
 that vines lend themselves to any plan he may 
 devise. In fact, it is hardly possible that his 
 yard can be artistically planted without the 
 use of vines in numerous varieties. He should 
 remember that they require but lijttle room and 
 lift themselves above the other plants, mak- 
 ing it possible to set vines and shrubs in the 
 same bed or border if desired, and thereby 
 obtain an effect which, were flowers and shrubs 
 alone relied upon, would be well nigh impossi- 
 ble. It requires, indeed, but little consideration 
 to arrive at the conclusion that, however small 
 the space to be planted, there may be vines in 
 every desirable nook and corner, and still 
 neither the lawn nor the flower-beds and bor- 
 ders will be encroached upon to any great ex- 
 tent. 
 
 PERENNIAL VINES 
 
 Although there are innumerable sorts ready 
 for the planter's use still it is best to rely for 
 the most part on the better-known varieties. 
 A vine which will respond generously to the 
 treatment accorded it by the average novice is 
 the Virginia Creeioer {Ampelopsis quinquefo- 
 
88 YAED AND GARDEN 
 
 lia). Its good x^oints are its quick growth, its 
 absolute hardiness, its extraordinary beauty 
 when it wears its summer dress of green foliage 
 and its gorgeous hues when it dons an autumn 
 robe of red and adds a touch of purple with 
 its dainty berries. The Virginia Creeper, or 
 woodbine as it is sometimes called, is easily 
 obtained and can be found in almost any wood, 
 or growing along fences by country roads. It 
 is available for use as a screen and with its 
 rapid growth will hide a multitude of sins in 
 a surprisingly short time. Its one bad feature, 
 so far as small places are concerned, is its 
 tendency to grow to the top, and as the top 
 gains in strength and mass of spread, the vine 
 ceases to show leaves near its roots. While 
 this makes a plant desirable for growing up 
 old trees or for hiding from view dead tops, 
 it renders it of little use in screening objects 
 of less height, although in its younger years 
 it answers this purpose very well. It tends 
 also to exhaust the soil rapidly and its roots 
 ramble subterraneously over a considerable 
 territory. The familiar ^^ Dutchman's Pipe," 
 (Aristolochia macropliylla), however, a robust 
 grower with enormous leaves, continues to 
 throw out its foliasre from the base and so 
 
VINES 
 
 89 
 
 Lity lie^icU'iico C oveied with Woodbine 
 {Ampclopsis qninquefoUa ) 
 
90 YAED AND GARDEN 
 
 answers admirably for covering whatever it 
 grows upon near the ground. It is also a 
 climber but, growing with uniform density from 
 the base up, it is suitable for arbors or large 
 fence spaces or for verandas and pergolas. 
 
 Considering the climbing roses as vines, the 
 strongest growers and those producing under 
 ordinary treatment the best results, are the 
 Crimson Rambler with red blossoms and the 
 Dorothy Perkins with pink. Both are entirely 
 hardy and will thrive year after year, especially 
 if pruning is attended to with any degree of 
 regularity. The Wichuraiana rose is also de- 
 sirable, its foliage being to a considerable ex- 
 tent evergreen, a feature which makes it of 
 value in situations which are conspicuous in 
 the winter. The Wichuraiana is also known as 
 the Memorial Rose, and though it lacks the bril- 
 liant color of the Crimson Rambler, in some 
 respects it is better than the latter. As a 
 climber for covering porches, trellises and 
 arches or as a creeper for covering steep banks, 
 it is probably unequalled so far as the roses are 
 concerned. Another advantage it joossesses is 
 its apparent freedom from the attacks of in- 
 sects or disease. One especial use to which it 
 can be put to advantage is to plant it in the 
 
VINES 91 
 
 earth at the top of some high retaining wall or 
 bank, letting its branches droop over and hang 
 toward the level below. The Dorothy Perkins 
 has the same strong habit of growth as the more 
 familiar Crimson Rambler and the flowers are 
 borne in clusters of thirty or forty. 
 
 From time to time new varieties of climbing 
 roses are introduced and almost all of them are 
 well worth planting l)ut the beginner will doubt- 
 less find that the red, pink and white blossoms 
 of the Rambler, Dorothy Perkins and the Wich- 
 uraiana will answer his purposes. Climbing 
 roses should be planted no closer than four feet 
 and the soil in which they are set should be more 
 deeply cultivated than for other vines. In 
 training them avoid taking their stems in a di- 
 rectly vertical course for this tends to take the 
 sap to the top and to denude the lower x>art of 
 the plant. Avoid this by bending the shoot in 
 one direction or another then permitting it to 
 take its upward trend if desired. 
 
 Clematises are familiar vines in many places 
 and because of their good qualities should be 
 even more extensively grown than they are. 
 They require a fairly rich soil of a light, loamy 
 character and will l)e all tlie liai)pier if a little 
 lime or old mortar is mixed with it. The soil 
 
92 YAED AND GARDEN 
 
 in wliicli they are planted should be well 
 drained, and each year should be enriched by a 
 top dressing of cow manure. They are used in 
 many places to cover walls, mounds, trellises, 
 arbors or porches. Unfortunately, clematises 
 are subject to a disease which often results fa- 
 tally. When planted close to buildings where 
 the ground does not freeze to a great depth this 
 disease is responsible for many disappoint- 
 ments. It is due to a parasite which it is be- 
 lieved is killed by hard freezing; indeed, no 
 other remedy so far as is known exists. The 
 vines should in all cases be fastened securely 
 to the trellises upon which they are supported 
 to prevent their being whipped about by the 
 winds ; training the vines upon strings or simi- 
 lar insecure devices is therefore to be avoided. 
 Clematis fammula or sweet clematis blooms 
 early in July; Clematis paniculata is a strong, 
 vigorous grower and in late summer produces 
 sheets of pure white flowers of the most pleas- 
 ing fragrance. Both are perfectly hardy. The 
 finest hybrids, including Clematis J ackmani and 
 its varieties, are widely used and much admired. 
 The plants bear large, intense violet-purple 
 flowers remarkable for richness of color; they 
 are free in growth and abundant and successive 
 
VINES 
 
94 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 bloomers. Clematis Henryi is another good 
 variety, ^ a free grower and bloomer, bearing 
 cream-white blossoms. A red variety of the 
 large flowering Clematis can be had under va- 
 rious trade names. 
 
 The Honeysuckle is valuable for many pur- 
 poses and particularly for its sweet-scented 
 flowers. Lonicera sempervirens, L. Japonica 
 and L. Halliana, which is half evergreen in 
 the north, are the best for general uses. 
 
 A vine which is especially valuable for cling- 
 ing to walls is Ampelopsis Veitchi, or Boston 
 ivy, as it is popularly known. Its leaves are 
 small and overlap one another, forming a sheet 
 of green. It is somewhat tender in its early 
 years and requires, for the first winter at least, 
 ample protection; once established, however, 
 there is small danger of its suffering from low 
 temperature. It grows rapidly and its foliage 
 is extraordinarily handsome in summer and as- 
 sumes a crimson hue in autumn. It requires 
 no support but clings to brick and stone struc- 
 tures readily and, while it encounters some dif- 
 ficulty in gaining a firm hold on wooden build- 
 ings, it seldom fails to succeed in supporting 
 itself. 
 
 Other vines which will thrive in the city yard 
 
VINES 95 
 
 and which the planter should carefully consider 
 when he is making his plans are the Trumpet 
 Creeper (Tecoma radicans), Actinidia arguta, 
 a strong-growing vine from Japan with large 
 leaves and white purple-centered flowers; 
 Akebia quinata, el rapid-growing vine bearing 
 five-fingered leaves and sweet-scented flowers 
 of a plum color, appearing near the end of 
 April; Celastrus scandens, or the false bitter- 
 sweet, with scarlet fruit pods that are highly 
 ornamental; Wistaria midtijiiga, (known often- 
 times as W. Chinensis), and W. speciosa. All 
 these vines possess shrubby tops and do not 
 die back in the fall. A list of vines which 
 die back to the ground or nearly so in winter 
 but whose roots persist from year to year will 
 include many of the most decorative plants of 
 the sort for general use. Among these is the 
 cinnamon vine {Dioscorea divaricata). An- 
 other vine which should be more generally 
 planted is Euonymus radicans; it is a splen- 
 did evergreen creeping plant with small pretty 
 foliage and though it is rather slow growing, it 
 is exceedingly useful for covering low stone 
 walls or stumps. It has been said that it is not 
 reliably hardy but in many situations it has 
 endured a temperature as low as twenty de- 
 
96 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 grees below zero and this without any winter 
 protection whatever. 
 
 ANNUAL VINES 
 
 Among the annuals are many easily grown 
 plants of extraordinary value and beauty. The 
 morning-glories and moon-vines come under 
 this head, and one might of course consider the 
 sweet-peas as belonging to the same division. 
 Early-growing nasturtiums — always effective 
 when trained on low wire trellises — yield lux- 
 uriant foliage and hundreds of flowers in the 
 course of a season. All are readily grown from 
 seed and, with the exception of the sweet-peas, 
 which require elaborate treatment compared 
 with the others, will reward the planter with 
 quantities of blossom even when they are neg- 
 lected and abused. Their rapid growth makes 
 them especially useful as screens and frequently 
 an unsightly spot in the yard where, for in- 
 stance, a garbage can is kept, may be entirely 
 hidden from view in a comparatively short time 
 by the use of either nasturtiums or morning-" 
 glories. The latter have the troublesome habit 
 of seeding themselves and when a vine is per- 
 mitted to produce seeds, it is not unlikely that 
 the planter thereafter will have some difficulty 
 
VINES 97 
 
 in ridding the spot where it grew of volunteer 
 vines in subsequent seasons. 
 
 TRELLISES 
 
 Where the perennial vines are planted it is 
 best to give them artificial supports that are of 
 a permanent nature. Nothing is gained by 
 erecting flimsy trellises which, as soon as the 
 vines have taken hold upon them, begin to waver 
 under their weight. Old gas-pipe is to be had 
 very cheaply in most cities and this, when well 
 set in the ground, affords a splendid and ef- 
 fective support which will last many years, and, 
 once the vine is established upon it, will relieve 
 the gardener of the necessity of marring the 
 growth by tearing it down in order to 
 strengthen the support. When vines are to be 
 attached to frame houses which, of course, will 
 require painting from season to season, it is 
 l)est to provide a support which is separate 
 from the wall. This may be made of wire net 
 or of wood lattice and, if constructed with some 
 thought, may be removed, with the vine cling- 
 ing to it, laid back until the painter has com- 
 pleted his work, and then, without disturbing 
 the climber, replaced. Such devices are best 
 made of a strong wood frame upon which the 
 
98 . YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 wire net is stretched. If desired, tlie bottom of 
 the frame may be attached to the house by 
 hinges and the top made secure by screws which 
 can be readily removed. With these with- 
 drawn, the trellis can be laid back on its hinges 
 and, the painters dej^arted, quickly restored to 
 its former position. 
 
CHAPTER VI 
 
 ANNUALS 
 
 It is with annual rather than with biennial 
 or with perennial plants that most planters of 
 small city gardens are familiar. The three 
 groups are well marked and the characteristics 
 of each well defined. Annuals, strictly speak- 
 ing, are plants which normally survive but a 
 single season, maturing from seed, producing 
 seed and completing their cycle of life. Bien- 
 nials live two years and the term, accurately 
 applied, describes an exceedingly small group 
 of plants which do not bear flowers or fruit 
 until the second season following the planting 
 of the seed. Of all the species of seed-bearing 
 plants, it has been estimated that only one or 
 two per cent, are true biennials. Perennials 
 live from year to year and include, naturally, 
 trees, shrubs and herbs, but, as the term is gen- 
 erally employed in relation to decorative gar- 
 dening, it is applied to those non-woody plants 
 more properly known as ^4iardy herbaceous 
 
100 YAED AND GAEDEN 
 
 perennials." These inelnde such well-known 
 species as Peony and Phlox. 
 
 GENERAL CLASSIFICATION OF ANNUALS 
 
 Among the annuals are found some of the 
 showiest plants in cultivation, and, inasmuch 
 as they are, generally speaking, easily grown, 
 
 
 
 Annual Phlox (P. Drummondu) 
 
 additional merit on this account must be ac- 
 corded the group. They afford a variety of 
 brilliant colors and delicate fragrance, produce 
 quick results, bloom at various seasons and at- 
 tain varying heights. They are valuable in 
 beds by themselves, as edgings for other beds 
 or for walks, as trailers or vines, or in con- 
 
ANNUx\LS 101 
 
 junction with borders of hardy shrul)s or her))a- 
 ceous plants. In the latter employment they 
 serve to replace perennials that failed to sur- 
 vive the winter or to cover bare spots which 
 frequently occur in the hardy borders. 
 
 Annuals are usually divided into Jthree 
 classes : 
 
 (1) Hardy annuals, or those sown directly 
 in the open ground where they are to bloom. 
 Many of these resent transplanting and, when 
 the seeds have germinated, demand only thin- 
 ning. Hardy annuals are the earliest to be 
 sown outdoors. 
 
 (2) Half-hardy annuals, or those which are 
 usually sown indoors under glass and later 
 transplanted to the blooming beds. Sown out- 
 doors, weather conditions must be such as to 
 indicate that all danger of frost is past. 
 
 (3) Tender annuals, or those which require 
 more heat than the half-hardy varieties, and 
 which can not be safely transplanted outdoors 
 until there is an assured temperature of not 
 less than fifty-five or sixty degrees. These also 
 are started indoors. 
 
 Catalogues usually make these divisions, and 
 when once the meaning of the term is thor- 
 oughly understood there is less danger of fail- 
 
102 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 ure on the part of the amateur in dealing with 
 them. 
 
 EARLY PLANTING 
 
 To obtain early flowers from annuals, in the 
 North, seed must be sown in flats or pans or 
 boxes and set in sunny windows until the seed- 
 lings grow strong enough to bear transplant- 
 ing. Often this is begun entirely too early. 
 
 Single and Double Zinnias 
 
 Dwelling houses, as a rule, are altogether un- 
 suitable for raising plants successfully from 
 seed, and especially for ''growing them on," 
 as the florists call it, until it is time to set them 
 out in outdoor beds. The seed, in most in- 
 stances, will germinate, and, given the right 
 
ANNUALS 103 
 
 conditions, the seedlings will thrive, but most 
 beginners find it impossible to give the little 
 plants these "right conditions." It is, there- 
 fore, best to give them as short a period in the 
 house as possible and, at the same time, effect 
 a gain in point of early flowering. So, instead 
 of attempting to gain too much time, which in 
 seven cases out of ten results in absolute fail- 
 ure, it is better to gain, say only three weeks, 
 and have the effort crowned with success. To 
 do this, sow the seeds in the house in the first 
 week of April. There is much expert advice, 
 of course, to the effect that March sowing is 
 none too early, but there are, so far as the ex- 
 periences of beginners are concerned, com- 
 paratively few cases where results from March 
 sowing in the long run equal those of April 
 planting. 
 
 INDOOR SOWING 
 
 The best plan to follow is to adopt the method 
 employed by the florist — sow the seeds in flats. 
 *' Flats" are more convenient than mysterious; 
 they are easily made, cheap and admirably 
 adapted to the purpose. They are nothing 
 more than boxes, twelve or eighteen inches wide 
 and twice as long and three or four inches deep. 
 
104 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 The width and length may vary to suit the 
 planter, although a box a foot and a half wide 
 and two and a half or three feet long is more 
 easily handled, but the depth must not be 
 greater than four inches. Three, probably, for 
 the average amateur is better. Empty cigar 
 boxes are often used, and do very well indeed. 
 Bore half a dozen holes in the bottom and over 
 these place bits of crock, concave enough in 
 form to permit surplus water to escape under 
 them easily and quickly. Next put in a layer 
 of coarse earth — unsifted loam — and, on top of 
 this, place the finer soil. This must be sifted, 
 made rich with old manure, with sand enough 
 added to render it thoroughly porous. Press 
 the soil down firmly, especially along the ends 
 and sides and in the corners, dampen slightly, 
 and sow the seed. 
 
 Sow very fine seed broadcast, scattering it 
 thinly over the surface and pressing it in the 
 soil with a block of wood. For larger seeds, 
 sprinkle a little dirt on top — barely enough to 
 cover them — and for seeds large enough to 
 handle separately supply a heavier covering of 
 soil. A safe rule to apply is to plant the big 
 seeds at a depth three times their diameter. If, 
 after the seed is planted, it appears that the 
 
ANNUALS 
 
 105 
 
 soil is too dry, sprinkle lightly with water, tak- 
 ing care not to wash the seed out. Then cover 
 the box or flat with a glass and sheet of white 
 paper and place it in a warm place. A shelf 
 above a radiator or stove is a fairly good situa- 
 tion, provided the heat is not too intense. Lit- 
 tle light is needed until the seeds germinate, 
 
 I 
 
 Snapdragon 
 
 China Aster 
 
 when, of course, they must be moved to lighter 
 quarters. Watch the glass closely, for it will 
 act, in a sense, as a barometer. When there is 
 too much moisture in the soil, drops will form 
 on the glass. Eaise it and wipe off the surplus 
 moisture, and let it remain elevated so that the 
 dry air can strike the earth and rid it of the 
 
106 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 excess dampness. Careful attention to this de- 
 tail will prevent the ''damping off" of the seed- 
 lings, which so often discourages the beginner. 
 If, on the other hand, the soil threatens to be- 
 come too dry, sprinkle lightly with water, or, 
 if the flat be small enough, set it in a pan of 
 luke-warm water and let it absorb the water 
 through the drainage holes in the bottom. 
 
 As the plants make growth, give more air, 
 removing the white paper entirely and slightly 
 elevating the glass. As growth continues, sup- 
 ply more air, and when the seedlings put out 
 their second leaves place the flat in a light, 
 warm window, making sure to screen the boxes 
 from the sun. White paper is also excellent 
 for this. When the first true leaves appear, 
 dispense with the glass and gradually expose 
 the plants to more sun. 
 
 TRANSPLANTING SEEDLINGS 
 
 By the time conditions outdoors permit trans- 
 planting, the seedlings should be strong enough 
 and at the same time enough hardened to en- 
 dure the shock without any marked set-back. 
 But in some instances it may be necessary to 
 transplant before the outside conditions will 
 permit a transfer immediately to the blooming 
 
ANNUALS 107 
 
 bed. In such case transplant either to other 
 flats — constructed in the same way — or else to 
 what are called ' ' thumb pots, ' ' miniature flower 
 pots easily obtained of any florist at yery small 
 cost. These, howeyer, are not necessary, any 
 sort of receptacle serying yery well for the 
 seedlings. In transplanting thus to other 
 
 Transplanting Seedlings to " Thumb-Pots." 
 
 boxes, allow the young plants all the space you 
 can afford; if set too close together their roots 
 will intertwine and it will be difficult later on, 
 when you come to set them in their permanent 
 beds, to separate them without damaging them 
 seyerely. 
 
 In any case, it is very important that the 
 
108 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 seedlings do not become siDindly. To prevent 
 this, increase the light and turn the boxes oc- 
 casionally, so that one side is not always next 
 to the window. 
 
 Select seeds for planting indoors with some 
 care. Earliness alone is hardly worth striving 
 for. The plant so treated blooms for only a 
 definite period, say four weeks. In such a case, 
 of course, what you would gain at one end you 
 would lose at the other. But in many instances, 
 especially in the case of verbenas and petunias, 
 a month's start means a clear gain, for the 
 plants, once they begin to bloom, will continue 
 to bloom until frost. 
 
 IMPORTANCE OF GOOD BEDS 
 
 It is strange, to say the least, that many 
 persons observe carefully all the little points 
 necessary to insure success with seeds planted 
 indoors, but prepare the outdoor beds in a man- 
 ner at once indifferent and careless. Three- 
 fourths of the failures are due to this lack of 
 thoroughness. In spring, the most of us, 
 whether flower-raising is our hobby or not, 
 want to plant. We rush into it, hastily and in- 
 completely preparing the beds, sow the seeds, 
 watch with increasing interest the germination, 
 
ANNUALS 109 
 
 and then feel not only regret but wonder when 
 the seedlings droop, wrther and die. We at- 
 tribute the trouble to the seeds. But the simple 
 truth is, the fault is our own. We deliberately 
 precipitate a floral tragedy; we deceive the 
 plants ; lead them to believe that the alluring 
 surface conditions with which we provide them 
 extend to sufficient depth to accommodate their 
 roots, but when they reach out and down, hope- 
 fully and trustfully, they encounter stones and 
 clods and soil as hard as cement. Not even the 
 spade could penetrate it easily. The hot sun 
 bakes the surface soil, blisters the fine roots, 
 and, in the end, instead of bloom and frag- 
 rance, we have a dismal bed of dead and dying 
 plants. 
 
 The careful gardener provides against any 
 such catastrophe with his annuals by preparing 
 his beds with that thoroughness which alone 
 insures success. He realizes that it is better 
 to spend time and labor in the beginning and 
 to begin right than -to exhaust patience later 
 and suffer disappointment as well. A poorly 
 made bed never produced a good flower, and 
 annuals, although quick in their growth, de- 
 mand proper rooting conditions if they are to 
 do their best. 
 
110 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 THE MOST SUITABLE SOIL 
 
 The ideal annual flower-bed is within the 
 reach of every person who has any flower-bed 
 at all. First of all, it means suitable soil, and, 
 in the second place, it means thorough treat- 
 ment of this soil. If your ground is heavy — 
 clayish in quality — or light — due to too much 
 
 stocks 
 
 Shirley Poppies 
 
 sand — it is often best to get rid of it entirely. 
 Outline the size of the bed, making sure not to 
 make it too wide to permit easy access to every 
 part of it, and excavate the poor soil to a depth 
 of two feet. Cart it away. Level off the bot- 
 tom and place a five- or six-inch layer of drain- 
 
ANNUALS 111 
 
 age material on it. Sand or gravel or cinders 
 will answer the purpose. Then on top of this 
 put in the new soil, which should consist of 
 rich, tine loam, leaf-mold and well-rotted cow 
 manure in approximately equal parts. In till- 
 ing, bring the surface of the bed three or four 
 inches higher than the surface of the surround- 
 ing ground, to allow for settling, and do not 
 attempt to sow seeds or set out plants in it 
 until this settling has occurred. 
 
 But if the soil where the bed is to be made 
 is satisfactory, such trouble, of course, is 
 avoided. Remember, however, that where no 
 bed has ever been made before, the earth must 
 be spaded to a depth of eighteen inches at least 
 — two feet is even better. All roots and stones 
 must be removed and the clods thoroughly pul- 
 verized. Begin by removing the surface soil 
 to a depth of six inches, casting it to one side. 
 Then spade the sub-soil to the required depth, 
 incorporating with it well-rotted manure, and, 
 when this is done, return the surface soil, mak- 
 ing it as tine as possible — so fine, indeed, that 
 it will readily pass through a sieve with a quar- 
 ter-inch mesh. The surface soil is laid aside 
 and finally returned to the top because it is 
 always rich in humus, which furnishes the most 
 
112 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 available food for the young" plants and tender 
 rootlets. Nature herself, it will be observed, 
 never turns the soil upside down. But in spad- 
 ing up old beds, where it is only necessary to 
 break the ground and pulverize the soil, it may 
 seem impractical to keep the surface soil on the 
 
 Sweet Peas 
 
 surface. It is easily enough accomplished, 
 however, if the old bed was properly prepared 
 in the beginning. Simply insert the spade to 
 the required depth and twist it from side to 
 side, loosening the soil without turning it un- 
 der. 
 
 But no matter what particular process you 
 
ANNUALS im 
 
 may elect to follow in making your l)ed, re- 
 member these points: 
 
 Provide depth, and in the sub-soil incorpo- 
 rate manure. 
 
 Never turn the surface soil under. 
 
 Thoroughly pulverize the surface — it can not 
 be made too fine. 
 
 By following these suggestions the founda- 
 tion for success is laid. Enriching th,e sub-soil 
 and giving depth are essential because the two 
 processes combine to draw the roots of the 
 plants downward and away from the surface, 
 where the sun's heat will bake them. Pulver- 
 izing the surface soil makes it possible to sow 
 the finest seed with satisfactory results. 
 
 THE TIME FOR PLANTING 
 
 In sowing seeds it is well to remember that 
 April in the North is a month of many moods. 
 The warmth of one day, which seems to presage 
 the end of spring frosts, may be nothing more 
 than a ^'weather-breeder." It may end in a 
 cold night and a succession of cold days, when 
 whatever has been planted in the way of tender 
 annuals succumbs, and the gardener's work has 
 been for nothing. Therefore, do not be im- 
 
114 
 
 YAED AND GARDEN 
 
 patient to plant. It is better to wait until the 
 ground is warm and all danger of frost is past 
 than to be too early; give your impatience 
 outlet by working the soil in the beds. 
 
 But by the fifteenth of April it is ordinarily 
 safe to plant such of the hardier annuals as 
 the Cornflower, Sweet Sultan, Calendula, Calli- 
 
 Petunias 
 
 opsis, Petunia, Sunflower, Morning-glory, Sweet 
 Alyssum, Poppy, Candytuft, Mignonette. The 
 last three, it must be borne in mind, will not 
 bear transplanting, and must be sown where 
 they are to bloom. 
 
 The gardener who has a choice of location 
 for his beds of annuals should remember that 
 
ANNUALS 115 
 
 most of them prefer open, sunny situations, but 
 some of them, such, for example, as pansies and 
 forget-me-nots, thrive where they get the full 
 sunshine for only half a day. 
 
 OUTDOORS SOWING 
 
 It is in sowing the seeds of annuals outdoors 
 that inexperienced amateurs make the most 
 blunders. After the seed beds have been pre- 
 pared as already directed, mark off rows on 
 the surface from six to twenty-four inches 
 apart. Be sure to make the rows straight. If, 
 however, the planter desires, the planting may 
 be done in circles, keeping the circles the same 
 distance apart. In every instance the space 
 between the rows or circles is determined by 
 the height or size of the plant at maturity. 
 Allow plenty of room for growth and do not 
 crowd. Sow fine seed in the rows as thinly as 
 possible, and, after the true leaves form, thin, 
 permitting such to remain as stand as far apart 
 in the row^ as the rows themselves are far 
 apart. Sow heavier and larger seeds one at a 
 time and a little thicker than they are to stand 
 when they begin growth; this allows for fail- 
 ures. When the seed is sown, sift a light 
 covering of soil over the finer seeds — barely 
 
116 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 enough to assist in firming tliem in the ground, 
 and then, with a smooth board or block of wood, 
 gently pat down the surface, making the entire 
 bed smooth. Be sure to label the rows if dif- 
 ferent varieties are planted, and it is best, 
 usually, to mark on the labels the date of plant- 
 ing. 
 
 ^ 
 
 Pot Marigold 
 ( Calendula officinalis ) 
 
 As soon as the seedlings have made enough 
 growth, be on the lookout for weeds, and as fast 
 as they appear rid the beds of them. "Weeds 
 quickly overcome the tender flowers, and either 
 kill them entirely or cause such a set-back that 
 the plants do not readily recover. Prepare 
 also to afford such support as some annuals 
 
ANNUALS 117 
 
 may require, supplying twigs or stakes for 
 them to depend upon, or, in some instances, 
 wire netting or something similar — as in the 
 case of sweet-peas — for them to climb over. 
 
 Good flowers, it must be remembered, do 
 not grow in neglected beds. Cultivation alone 
 will bring out the best that there is in plants 
 of any sort. And cultivation means a little 
 more than the daily sprinkle of water over the 
 beds. It means a little more than weeding. 
 Still the work it embraces is neither arduous 
 nor exhausting and, if a little be done each day, 
 will scarcely occupy any time at all. It is pos- 
 sible, for instance, to keep in perfect state of 
 cultivation a garden of annuals fifty feet wide 
 and fifty feet deep by devoting twenty minutes 
 a day to the work it demands. 
 
 WATERING 
 
 Many amateurs fail because, after their gar- 
 den is well started, they water, as the florists 
 say, 'injudiciously." It is difficult to under- 
 stand what is meant l)y the term, but not at 
 all difficult to interpret it by the light of some 
 unfortunate experience. In the first place, 
 some plants demand more water than others, 
 and this, of course, should be taken into con- 
 
118 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 sideration. It should l)e taken into considera- 
 tion when the plan of tlie garden is heing laid 
 out ; group those flowers demanding much mois- 
 ture together as nearly as possible and those 
 demanding less moisture in groups distinct 
 from the others. Then apply the water accord- 
 ingly, abundantly or scantily as the case may 
 
 Sowing Seeds of Annuals 
 
 be, and at night. There is contrary advice, to 
 be sure, but if the rule of applying the water 
 at night is followed the flowers will all be bene- 
 fited, and, at least, none will be harmed. But 
 to water the beds in the late morning or early 
 afternoon is dangerous, if not altogether fatal. 
 Moreover, when water is applied, let the appli- 
 
ANNUALS 119 
 
 cation he thorough. It does very little good to 
 si)rinkle the beds with a light mist from the 
 hose or watering-can; this may often freshen 
 the foliage after a hot, burning day, but it gives 
 no water to the roots, where the moisture is 
 necessary. It is, in fact, better to water in- 
 frequently, provided the watering then is done 
 thoroughly, than to water often and only 
 lightly. 
 
 Keep the surface soil of the beds well stirred, 
 and do not permit a hard crust to form. The 
 process of weeding naturally tends to give 
 the soil such cultivation as it recjuires in this 
 resj^ect, but often, when weeding is thoroughly 
 done, some weeks may pass before it appears 
 necessar}^ to repeat the work. It is in such in- 
 tervals that the surface soil hardens and be- 
 comes almost as impervious to moisture as 
 concrete, and at the same time, is quickly heated 
 by the sun's rays. 
 
 In selecting annuals for spring planting, be 
 wary of ''novelties." Obtain the standards, 
 which have been often tried and seldom found 
 wanting. Only a few of the uncommon sorts, 
 or those that are little known, are of value — if 
 they were, they would very quickly cease to be 
 uncommon. The old-time flowers are not easilv 
 
120 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 displaced and the beginner will do well to rely 
 in the main on pot marigolds or calendulas, 
 clarkias, zinnias, balsams, candytufts, scabiosas, 
 nasturtiums, poppies, calliopsis or coreopsis, 
 phloxes, pinks, portulacas, China asters, stocks, 
 sweet alyssum, cockscombs, silenes, petunias, 
 sweet-peas and sunflowers. For climbers none 
 is better than the morning-glory or the nastur- 
 tium. 
 
 PORCH AND WINDOW BOXES 
 
 In connection with the discussion of annuals, 
 it is fitting that there should be something said 
 of porch and window boxes. Often the earth 
 inclosed in these is the only ground some un- 
 fortunate city resident possesses; it must be- 
 come his garden and his domain and therein he 
 must raise the flowers with which to grace his 
 residence in summer. Porch and window boxes 
 may be filled with foliage or flowering plants, 
 which, once they are established, will add im- 
 measurably to the appearance of the residence 
 and contribute generously toward redeeming 
 the big city of its barren ugliness. These little 
 box gardens, whether they are simple or elab- 
 orate, are always effective, and the effective- 
 ness is invariably out of all proportion to the 
 
ANNUALS 
 
 121 
 
 
 
 o 
 
122 YAED AND GARDEN 
 
 cost involved. There is nothing in the way of 
 planting, especially in large towns and cities, 
 that will give a surer, quicker touch of indi- 
 viduality and distinction to a residence at small 
 cost and with little trouble than porch and win- 
 dow boxes. 
 
 Where there is a lawn, however small it may 
 be, the boxes, with their green foliage and hang- 
 ing vines, render less abrupt the line between 
 lawn and foundation wall. Even where there 
 is yard space enough to- permit the use of small 
 shrubs or flowering plants, annuals or peren- 
 nials, for the concealment of such walls, or the 
 use of climbing vines to relieve the walls of 
 any suggestion of obtrusiveness, the transition 
 between lawn and architecture is less marked 
 when box gardens are employed. 
 
 In recent years this fact has come to be more 
 generally recognized, and, as a result, profes- 
 sional florists each spring prepare thousands 
 of plants for use in this manner. Moreover, 
 it is possible nowadays to have them in gen- 
 erous quantities at comparatively small cost. 
 At the same time, the varieties offered for this 
 purpose are increasing in number, and the 
 range of choice now includes a score of plants 
 which only a few seasons ago were sold at 
 
ANNUALS 123 
 
 prices practically prohibitive so far as the 
 purse of the average person is concerned. 
 
 PRACTICAL USES OF BOX GARDENS 
 
 When cost is considered, however, there 
 should be some thought given to the usefulness 
 of the boxes. In a modest way such gardens 
 have a practical value. Not only do they add 
 beauty to a house and in this respect prove 
 their esthetic or ornamental value, but they 
 frequently serve as effective screens, as when, 
 on a porch without a railing, the boxes are used 
 as a substitute. Wherever they are so em- 
 ployed it is seldom that the owner feels willing 
 to abandon them for the usual balustrade. 
 Again, when set before windows, they satis- 
 factorily obstruct the view from "the outside, 
 though not materially interfering with the view 
 from within. It might be mentioned, too, that 
 by their use rooms may be rendered cooler in 
 the hot days of summer, for the foliage of the 
 plants will break the direct rays of the sun, 
 and the evaporation of the water applied to 
 the boxes will in some degree reduce the heat 
 of the atmosphere. 
 
 There is still another practical value which 
 should not be overlooked. Persons who do not 
 
124 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
ANNUALS 125 
 
 own their homes, but, on account of prefer- 
 ence or for other reasons, rent them, may feel 
 reluctant to expend even a comparatively small 
 sum in the ornamentation of a place which is 
 not their own. While such an excuse, in view 
 of the small cost of the seed of quick-growing 
 annuals, is extremely weak, still porch and win- 
 dow boxes present an immediate and happy 
 solution. Easily moved from place to place, 
 even when filled, they need never be abandoned, 
 but can be carried away by the renter along 
 with his furniture, and, though they may not 
 appear to fit the new porch or the new windows, 
 in all cases some use can be made of them, and 
 usually they will be found to do as well in the 
 new home as in the old. If one has window or 
 porch boxes, therefore, he may move in mid- 
 summer if he desires, and, by carrying the box 
 gardens with him, he can impart to his new res- 
 idence an atmosphere of permanency which he 
 could not attain in any other way. 
 
 But if these miniature gardens possess 
 numerous advantages, it must be remembered 
 that all of them disappear immediately if the 
 boxes are neglected. When they are allowed 
 to languish for want of care and attention, 
 instead of adding beauty to a place, they be- 
 
126 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 come shabby and fade or wither, and remain a 
 constant reflection on the phmter, who was 
 either careless or indifferent enough to permit 
 their decline. 
 
 As in all gardening operations, the way to 
 prevent such unhappy results is to begin pro- 
 perly. Time and labor spent in the beginning 
 
 Porch Box Newly Started but with Plants in Bloom 
 
 means time and labor saved in the end. Give 
 the flowers or plants the most congenial con- 
 ditions possible, and, with ordina'ry attention, 
 they will thrive and amply reward the planter 
 for his pains. Remember in the first place that 
 growing plants in boxes is vastly different from 
 growing them in beds in the ground. In boxes 
 
ANNUALS 127 
 
 they are generally exposed on three or four 
 sides, and moisture taken up by the soil quickly 
 evaporates, leaving the plants dry and thirsty. 
 Then remember, too, that the smaller the box 
 the more rapid is the evaporation, the more 
 cramped are the roots, and the more quickly is 
 the plant food in the soil exhausted when over- 
 crowded. 
 
 THE PROPER BOX 
 
 In a word, begin properly by constructing 
 the proper sort of box. Do not be niggardly 
 with the lumber, and do not be fearful of get- 
 ting the box too deep or too wide. Of course^ 
 in most instances, the planter — especially if he 
 be the owner of his own home — ^must be gov- 
 erned largely by conditions; he must construct 
 his boxes to fit these conditions. But before he 
 begins let him examine carefully the conditions, 
 with a view to making the most of them. Often 
 what seems to be impossible, on reflection be- 
 comes possible, and where it appears at first 
 that only a small box could be employed it be- 
 comes apparent that by some other arrange- 
 ment than the first contemplated, a larger box 
 can be used. 
 
 Boxes one foot deep and one foot wide, in- 
 side dimensions, are not too large. As for 
 
128 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 length, use a number of boxes of less length 
 rather than one or two boxes of longer size. 
 This, however, is merely a matter of conven- 
 ience ; the shorter the boxes the more easily are 
 tliey handled, and if one makes them both wide 
 and deep, much of the weight occasioned by 
 these generous dimensions is overcome by re- 
 ducing the length. Obtain boards fourteen 
 inches wide, other boards twelve inches wide, 
 and all of them of inch stuff. The fourteen- 
 inch boards are used as bottoms, and the 
 twelve-inch boards are used for the sides and 
 ends. It requires no mathematician to figure 
 that, by employing such lumber, the task re- 
 solves itself into sawing the boards to proper 
 lengths and nailing them together. By secur- 
 ing the sides and ends on top of the bottom 
 boards, it will readily be seen that the inside 
 dimensions are a foot wide and a foot deep. 
 In order to secure the boxes and prevent their 
 pulling apart — for nails soon work loose — make 
 liberal use of small angle-irons. These are fas- 
 tened on the outside, for, when round-headed 
 screws are used, they prove ornamental as well 
 as useful. Occasionally one may use thin iron 
 bands instead, but these, while more difficult to 
 adjust, seldom prove as satisfactory as the 
 
ANNUALS 
 
 129 
 
 Effective (jJrouping of Single Plants 
 
130 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 angle-irons. The boxes should never be set flat 
 upon the floor of the porch, but should be sup- 
 ported by pieces of ''two-by-four.'' Stout iron 
 brackets firmly secured may be used to support 
 the window boxes. In the bottoms of all bore 
 quarter-inch holes at intervals of six or eight 
 inches to insure drainage. 
 
 SOIL FOR BOX GARDENS 
 
 For the best results, only the best soil must 
 be used. Obtain good rich loam — such, for in- 
 stance, as is found directly under the roots of 
 the grass in a fertile pasture — and with this 
 mix well-rotted manure and sand. The best 
 compost is one-third loam, one-third manure 
 and at least one-fifth sharp, clean sand. This, 
 however, is a general mixture ; for some plants 
 it is not by any means the best. Ferns, be- 
 gonias and caladiums, for instance, demand 
 well-rotted leaf mold instead of the manure. 
 But, even though rich soil is generously pro- 
 vided, thrifty plants soon exhaust it, and the 
 successful box gardener will not overlook this 
 fact. During the summer, from time to time, 
 he will supply additional plant food in the form 
 of fertilizer. Liquid manure is always best and 
 safest; use, if it can be obtained, dried sheep 
 
ANNUALS 
 
 131 
 
 o 
 
 a, 
 
132 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 manure. Set a pound of this, held in a cloth 
 bag, in five gallons of water and let it remain 
 until the solution takes upon itself the color of 
 weak tea. Then apply it at the roots of the 
 plants once a week. Weak solutions frequently 
 applied are better than strong solutions applied 
 less often. Bone meal may be used by sprink- 
 ling it lightly on the surface of the soil, but it is 
 never as satisfactory as the liquid fertilizer. 
 
 CULTIVATION 
 
 Window boxes, even where their proportions 
 are generous, require much water. As a mat- 
 ter of fact they should be thoroughly watered 
 every day if they are exposed to the sun, and 
 in other situations often enough to prevent 
 the soil from becoming dry. There is little 
 danger of souring the soil if drainage has been 
 properly provided. It is also necessary to keep 
 the surface soil loose ; never permit it to harden 
 and cake. Avoid, too, the planting of flowers 
 that demand sun in situations where only shade 
 is to be had, and, on the other hand, do not 
 waste time and effort by setting shade-loving 
 plants in positions exposed to the full glare of 
 the sun. Neither will thrive. 
 
 Usually the most perplexing problem is to 
 
ANNUALS 133 
 
 select plants for the north side of the porch or 
 for the north windows. Trailing fuchsias, ivy 
 geraniums, fancy caladiums, vincas, asparagus, 
 Japanese morning-glories, glechoma and be- 
 gonias are all suitable, to say nothing of the 
 numerous ferns. The common ^'umbrella 
 plant" also does well in such situations, but 
 requires more water than the others. 
 
 For boxes on the south, geraniums, antir- 
 rhinums (''snap-dragons"), heliotrope, mau- 
 randya, Phlox Drummondii, nasturtiums, ager- 
 atum, weeping lantana, crotons, abutilons, 
 coleus, are all excellent, while on the east use 
 tuberous begonias, nasturtiums, thunbergias, 
 vincas, ivy geraniums, heliotrope, manettias, 
 maurandya, antirrhinums and ferns. 
 
CHAPTER VII 
 
 HARDY PERENNIALS 
 
 No class of plants is better adapted for the 
 ornamentation of city yards than the hardy 
 herbaceous perennials. Once established, they 
 require comparatively little care and, provided 
 they are properly planted, they will thrive from 
 year to year, multiply and at the end of three 
 or four seasons, reward the planter with dozens 
 if not scores of new plants with which to adorn 
 additional space. Unlike annuals, they survive 
 the winters, oftentimes with no protection 
 whatever, and may be planted either in the 
 spring or autumn, may be obtained as young 
 plants or may be raised from seed. 
 
 CLASSIFICATION OF PERENNIALS 
 
 While it is hardly possible to give a clear 
 definition of the herbaceous perennial and to 
 distinguish between this and the biennial and 
 annual, still it is understood that the herba- 
 ceous perennial is a plant provided with per- 
 
 134 
 
HARDY PP]RENNIALS 135 
 
 Meadow Sweet {Ulmuria Filipendula, known to the trade as 
 ^p ircea t 'ilipeud u la ) 
 
136 YARD AND GAEDEN 
 
 ennial roots and a top that dies to the ground 
 in the fall, such, for instance, as the peony, the 
 columbine, the larkspur and the various forms 
 of hardy ferns. Nurserymen, however, include 
 in the list a number of closely allied species 
 which possess evergreen foliage, such as the 
 statice and the yucca and the evergreen creep- 
 ing phlox and a number of Alpine plants. 
 
 American nurserymen now offer nearly three 
 thousand species and varieties. Many of these, 
 of course, are hardier than others and some 
 require more generous treatment than others; 
 and all vary in height and size, color of flower 
 and period of bloom. It is only necessary to 
 bear in mind that with such a list from which 
 to select it is possible to have flowers in bloom 
 from frost to frost. Indeed, with a judicious 
 planting of spring-flowering bulbs and a liberal 
 planting of herbaceous perennials not even the 
 smallest city yard need be bloomless for more 
 than four months in the year. 
 
 The perennials may be divided into three 
 groups. The first will include those plants 
 which are to be adapted for the garden of neat 
 habit and form, requiring favorable conditions 
 which a state of cultivation provides and which, 
 with only a little more than ordinary attention, 
 
HARDY PERENNIALS 
 
 137 
 
 will attain perfection, persist from year to 
 year and increase in size and vigor. The 
 second group includes the perennial plants 
 which are possessed of such aggressive habits 
 that they are not well suited to the garden 
 hut are adapted rather to planting in situ- 
 ations where they may remain undisturbed, 
 
 Catchfly {Lychnis TisQaria, var. splendens) 
 
 and where their crowding and their irregu- 
 lar, sometimes ragged, growth will not prove 
 a disadvantage. The third division will in- 
 clude plants that are best adapted to plant- 
 ing in the wild garden or which, if established 
 among trees or in remote corners of the large 
 3^ard or .^'rounds, will be in the midst of condi- 
 
138 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 tions that suit them best and under which they 
 will meet with that natural restraint necessary 
 to curb rampant growth and prevent encroach- 
 ment on grounds set aside for other purposes. 
 This class of hardy perennials is more fre- 
 quently employed by the landscape gardener 
 who has an area of considerable extent to plant 
 than by the owner of a city lot. 
 
 The latter, however, will find that in the vari- 
 ous species and varieties of the herbaceous per- 
 ennials nearly every sort of plant is to be 
 obtained which he may desire. The group 
 affords plants for almost every situation, every 
 soil condition, and for almost every purpose. 
 Varying in height from the lowly growth of a 
 creeper to eight or ten and sometimes even 
 twelve or fourteen feet, affording foliage that 
 in itself is decorative, providing flowers for 
 every month from early spring until late 
 autumn, and including almost every shade in 
 their range of color, the perennials are by all 
 odds the best plants to establish in the space of 
 the small garden. 
 
 While they are easily raised from seed very 
 few of them bloom the first season when so 
 planted. To- obtain immediate results, there- 
 fore^ it is best to obtain plants a year or more 
 
HARDY PERENNIALS 
 
 139 
 
 old. This involves greater expense but it is 
 far more effective. Such plants set out in the 
 spring will bloom the following summer, or, if 
 set out in the autumn, will endure the winter 
 and, as the frost leaves the ground in the en- 
 suing spring, will send up their tender foliage 
 
 -r.« 
 
 Achillea 
 {Achillea Ptnrmica, 
 var. " The Pearl ") 
 
 Columbine 
 {Aqiiilcgia chrysantha) 
 
 and bloom-stalks and, long before it is season- 
 able for the planting of the seeds of annuals, 
 they will be in vigorous growth. The gardener 
 who has such plants to observe finds the early 
 spring one of the most interesting periods of 
 the whole year. He goes from bed to bed or 
 border to border removing a bit of the win- 
 
140 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 ter cover here and a bit there, and finds beneath 
 the litter the green shoots of the perennials 
 showing above the ground. For him there is 
 no impatient waiting until the last danger of 
 frost is past before gardening operations may 
 be begun, but, with the first pleasant days of 
 sunshine, life stirs in his garden. From this 
 time on he has only to take care that a sudden 
 frost does not catch him unawares and nip 
 the tender shoots. 
 
 WINTER PROTECTION 
 
 In the fall, when the frost has cut down the 
 foliage and withered everything in the yard and 
 when the trees have shed their leaves, the gar- 
 dener has only to place a light cover on his 
 beds or borders to prepare for another season 
 of bloom. This winter protection is heavy or 
 light according to the location ; in the northern 
 section of the country a heavier covering of 
 leaves or litter is required than in the southern 
 portion ; in many sections of the latter the hardy 
 perennials require no winter protection what- 
 ever. The protection itself should be applied as 
 soon as the ground has frozen to the depth of an 
 inch. If it is applied earlier there is often 
 danger of mice nesting under the litter and, in 
 
HARDY PERENNIALS 
 
 141 
 
 ^m:. 
 
 Globe Flower 
 {TrolUus Euroyceus) 
 
142 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 the spring, nipping the shoots as they appear 
 above the ground, or in the winter making their 
 way through the soft unfrozen earth to the 
 roots and so damaging these that the plants 
 perish. It is best in applying the litter, which 
 should consist of leaves — preferably the leaves 
 of hard-wooded trees — or clean straw, to lay 
 on at first a light covering and to add to this 
 later as the season advances and the severity 
 of the weather may suggest. 
 
 The purpose of the covering is not so much to 
 keep the ground from freezing as to protect the 
 plants from the rending, tearing and upheav- 
 ing effects of the alternate freezing and thaw- 
 ing. It is this, rather than extreme or 
 prolonged cold, that damages hardy perennials 
 and the spring-flowering bulbs. The covering, 
 therefore, should be only heavy enough to pro- 
 tect the beds or borders from this danger. And 
 it should be of such a nature that it will not 
 pack or settle heavily on the surface of the soil 
 and smother the plants by excluding the air. 
 
 PLANTING SEASON 
 
 While the perennials may be planted in the 
 fall as well as in the spring, unless the plants 
 can be obtained early in the fall it is better 
 
HARDY PERENNIALS 143 
 
 as a rule to plant in the spring*. The conten- 
 tion that fall planting is as safe as spring plant- 
 ing is due largely to the desire of various nur- 
 serymen to relieve themselves of a portion of 
 the spring rush. In the spring they have thou- 
 sands of orders for seeds, and for summer- 
 blooming or bedding plants to fill, and it is to 
 
 Swamp Rose {Hibiscus Moscheutos, var. "Crimson Eye") 
 
 their advantage usually to urge autumn planting 
 of such plants as can with any safety be set out 
 at that season of the year. 
 
 As a rule, however, in the fall nurserymen 
 will not disturb their plants until the season's 
 growth is matured — which is only proper — but 
 in many instances this is so late in the autumn 
 
144 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 that in sections of the north plants thus ob- 
 tained can not establish themselves before the 
 deep hard freezes of winter set in. The plants 
 are not well prepared as a result to resist the 
 cold, and, in the following spring, the gardener 
 is likely to find that many of the plants have ' 
 perished. He rushes to the conclusion, then, 
 that perennials are anything but hardy and 
 makes up his mind that hereafter he will con- 
 tent himself with the usual spring planting of 
 annuals. But where it is possible to obtain 
 perennials early enough in the fall to insure 
 some root growth in fheir new quarters before 
 winter, the fall is quite as good a season for 
 planting as the spring. Many gardeners have 
 found that they are not able to obtain nursery- 
 grown plants before October. In some sections 
 October is early enough but in other sections it 
 is too late and where this is obviously the case 
 or, in other words, where the winter sets in 
 early, fall planting is not at all advisable and 
 the perennials should not be set out until 
 spring. 
 
 PREPARATION OF BEDS 
 
 Beds or borders wherein the herbaceous per- 
 ennials are to be planted should be extraor- 
 
HARDY PEPiP]XXIALS 
 
 145 
 
 Oriental Poppy 
 {Paimver orient ale) 
 
146 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 dinarily well prepared for it must be borne in 
 mind that the plants are not annuals and 
 that they are to remain undisturbed where 
 they are set for three or four seasons. The 
 most of them, moreover, are gross feeders and 
 require more plant food than the annuals. All 
 the beds should be worked to a depth of two 
 feet, though in some instances eighteen inches 
 is sufficient. It is safer, however, to cultivate 
 the soil to the greater depth — in by far the 
 majority of instances this is required. In a 
 word, every effort should be made by the gar- 
 dener to provide ample depth for the growth 
 of the roots, as it is only from vigorous root 
 growth that the perennials can reach a state of 
 perfection. The depth also is necessary to in- 
 sure the plant against drought. 
 
 Underground drainage should be carefully 
 looked to, especially in the borders where it is 
 not intended to give the plants much attention 
 until they have attained sufficient growth to 
 demand lifting and dividing. Also it must be 
 remembered that unless the drainage is good, 
 plants will be in danger in winter when the 
 frost penetrates to a sufficient depth to reach 
 any water which may remain about their roots. 
 In spading up the bed the sub-soil should be 
 
HARDY PERENNIALS 
 
 ur 
 
 mixed with a portion of the surface soiL It 
 is not necessary to supply the former with any 
 great amount of plant food, but in the spit above 
 it there should be plenty of fertilizer, and the 
 best for this purpose is well-rotted cow manure. 
 In the fall a late top dressing of manure will 
 assist in maintainins' the fertility of the soil 
 
 Stoke's Aster {Cyanea StoJcesia) 
 
 and likewise afford winter protection. It is es- 
 sential, however, not only to see that the soil is 
 not impoverished but that it is not over en- 
 riched; a surplus of food tends to weaken the 
 plants and to render them liable to damage 
 from the frost. In this connection it is well 
 to emphasize once more the necessity for deep 
 
148 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 cultivation. Plants afforded a suitable rooting 
 depth are less likely to be injured by a surplus 
 of fertilizer than those which find it impossible 
 to obtain a deep root-hold. 
 
 CULTIVATION FROM SEED 
 
 The middle of July is a good time to sow 
 seeds of perennials. Good-sized plants may be 
 
 Bee Balm 
 ( Bd on or da didyma 
 
 Balloon Flower 
 ( Platycodon grandifforum ) 
 
 obtained before cold weather sets in and these 
 will make blooming plants in many instances the 
 following summer. Prepare the seed bed care- 
 fully, providing a depth of a foot, and pulverize 
 the soil even more finely than that prepared 
 
HARDY PERENNIALS 149 
 
 for the seeds of annuals in the si)ring. Sow the 
 perennials in shallow drills about four inches 
 apart, thinning the seedlings as they begin to 
 crowd or transplanting to other beds. It must 
 be remembered that July sun is a good many 
 degrees hotter than the sun of early May. 
 Annuals planted at the latter time are not likely 
 to suffer greatly from scorching, but peren- 
 nials, submitted to mid-summer heat and 
 drought, have a hard struggle unless some shade 
 is provided. A covering of laths is good for 
 the purpose and these may be employed by 
 erecting a framework two feet al)ove the seed 
 bed and upon this distributing the strips so 
 that intervals of two inches are left between 
 them. A shade will then be cast over the bed, 
 but enough sun also will fall upon the ground 
 to keep the seedlings in good health and the 
 soil sweet. Water carefully, using a spray, 
 and applying the moisture so gently that the 
 plantlets will not be washed from their hold on 
 the soil. 
 
 In the autumn, if the seedlings have attained 
 a fair size and are healthy and vigorous, they 
 may be transplanted to their permanent places 
 in the border. Here they will come through the 
 winter unscathed if the usual protection is af- 
 
150 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 M 
 
 Larkspur 
 ( Delph in ium hyhridiim ) 
 
HAKDY PERENNIALS 151 
 
 forded them and they are transplanted early 
 enough to insure their reestablishing them- 
 selves before winter freezing puts an end to 
 their efforts in this direction. Seedlings so 
 grown are very often healthier than those ol)- 
 tained from nurseries. They transplant better, 
 too, for their roots are exposed but a compar- 
 atively short time and they suffer nothing 
 through transit. 
 
 SHORT-LIVED PERENNIALS 
 
 Many of the perennials are best when treated 
 as biennials. The lives of such are not long and 
 the yearly renewal insures sturdy, vigorous, 
 flowering plants. Among these short-lived per- 
 ennials are the chimney bellflower {Campanula 
 pyramidalis), Rocky Mountain columbine (^gifi- 
 legia ccprulea), Iceland poppy {Papaver nudi- 
 caule), etc. On the other hand, to attempt to 
 raise some varieties from seed is to invite fail- 
 ure. Some species have been greatly im- 
 proved and, in many such instances, propaga- 
 tion by means of seed is almost sure to result 
 in seedlings of altogether inferior description. 
 The better means of propagating such varieties 
 is by division of the roots either in early spring 
 or in the autumn. To this class many of the 
 
152 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 perennial phloxes belong and the hardy chrys- 
 anthemums, the Jai^anese iris and the peonies. 
 
 ROOT DIVISION 
 
 Propagation by root division is not difficult 
 to elTect. Either the early spring or autumn 
 may be chosen for the work. The old plant 
 
 Golden Marguerite {Anthemis tinctoria) 
 
 should be carefully lifted, avoiding as much as 
 possible damage to the root system, and the 
 earth adhering to the roots should be shaken 
 off or washed away by immersion in water. 
 The root-stock and the tender rootlets leading 
 from it are then fully exposed and the propaga- 
 tor can see clearly where and how to cut. No 
 
HARDY PERENNIALS 153 
 
 general rule for the cutting operation can be set 
 down — different plants require different treat- 
 ment. Some separate readily, the gardener 
 finding himself in possession of half a dozen 
 small plants almost as soon as the soil is cleared 
 away, and with comparatively little cutting; 
 others require the use of a knife or a similar 
 instrument in order to effect the division. In 
 the main, propagation by this method is simply 
 the separation of a large clump of roots and 
 crowns into smaller plants. In the case of 
 plants possessing root stubs with buds or 
 ^' eyes'' — as the peony — the division, if de- 
 sired, may be carried to the extreme where only 
 a single bud to a piece of root is retained. It 
 is well in all propagation by division to divide 
 those species in the autumn that bloom before 
 July and those in the spring that bloom later 
 in the year. 
 
 The separation of hardy perennials, how- 
 ever, is more often practised in small yards and 
 gardens- to avoid over-crowding of roots and 
 crowns. An iris, for instance, if allowed to re- 
 main undisturbed in a bed or border for half 
 a dozen years, forms a circular mass of hard 
 root-stock from the center of which no leaf or 
 flower stalks appear. Overcrowding is the 
 
154 
 
 YAED AND GAKDEN 
 
 cause of this ''rim" blooming and the symptom 
 itself should be indication enough that the time 
 for division is at hand. All the perennials 
 benefit naturally when lifted and divided ; some, 
 indeed, actually crowd or grow themselves out 
 
 Sweet William 
 {Dianthus harhatus) 
 
 False Dragon-Head 
 { Physostegia Virginiana ) 
 
 of existence. But it is scarcely possible to es- 
 tablish any rule for the practice — some plants 
 will do best when allowed to remain four or five 
 years without disturbance, while others will 
 thrive only when divided every two seasons. 
 The peony is an example of the former class 
 and Phlox maculata of the latter. 
 
HARDY PERENNIALS 
 
 155 
 
 Spiraea 
 {Aruncus astilboides, known to the tmde as iSpircm aiuncns) 
 
156 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS 
 
 Another method of propagation is by cut- 
 tings, but it rarely proves successful in the 
 hands of the amateur. If he will provide him- 
 self, however, with a box of clean, sharp sand, 
 and is prepared to give the cuttings the at- 
 tention they require, failure need not by any 
 means be the result of his efforts in this direc- 
 tion. Select a short piece of a foliage stem 
 where the growth possesses a bud, lateral or 
 terminal, and, making a clean cut with a sharp 
 knife, insert the lower end of the cutting thus 
 obtained in the moist sand. It is always best 
 to have the lower end of the slip a node of the 
 stem. Remove a part of the foliage of the cut- 
 ting before insertion and cover the sand with 
 glass in order to maintain the rooting medium 
 at a slightly higher temperature than the or- 
 dinary atmosphere. Propagation by this 
 method has the advantage of insuring quick 
 results and the perpetuation of the parent va- 
 riety — not always certain, as already said, 
 when seed is the only reliance. 
 
CHAPTER VIII 
 
 SOME OF THE POPULAR PERENNIALS 
 
 It is doubtful whether a really comprehensive 
 list of the most popular species of perennials 
 could be prepared without doing some member 
 of the large plant family an injustice. How- 
 ever, a consensus of opinion seems to indicate 
 that the following sorts belong in such a list: 
 iris, peony, larkspur, hollyhock, phlox, anem- 
 one, columbine, hemerocallis, funkia, and rud- 
 beckia. To these also might be added bleeding 
 heart, lily-of-the-valley, helianthus, chrysan- 
 themum, coreopsis, dianthus, campanula and 
 poppy, and still the list would be by no means 
 complete. Much, of course, depends on the 
 tastes and desires of the individual and also 
 upon the purpose for which the plants are to 
 be employed. 
 
 This brings us once more to the fact that per- 
 ennials afford material for almost every re- 
 quirement. We have them for sunny and for 
 shady situations; for rich soil, clay soil and 
 
 157 
 
158 
 
 YAED AND GARDEN 
 
 sandy soil; for quiet and for bold effect; for 
 purely decorative value and for cut-flower pur- 
 poses ; for forbidding, cold and windy stretches 
 and for sheltered positions ; for naturalizing 
 and for more formal planting; for bloom in 
 spring, in summer and in autumn, and in al- 
 
 (.;oldc"ii Caow [Rudhcckia laciniata) 
 
 most every variety of color and in varying 
 heights. 
 
 Take for example the succession of bloom 
 possible to be obtained by the use of herbaceous 
 perennials alone. The following list suggests 
 the possibilities but by no means exhausts the 
 varieties * : 
 
 * The common trade or catalogue names are used in this list. 
 
POPULAR PERENNIALS 
 
 159 
 
 APRIL 
 
 Name 
 
 
 Hei 
 
 ght 
 
 Color 
 
 Adonis vernalis 
 
 
 
 1ft. 
 
 Yellow 
 
 Aquilegia Canadensis 
 
 
 Ito 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 Scarlet 
 
 Aiabis albida 
 
 
 6 to 
 
 8 in. 
 
 White 
 
 Aiibrietia deltoidea 
 
 
 3 to 
 
 Sin. 
 
 Dark violet 
 
 Dicentra spectabilis 
 
 
 IVoto 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 Pink 
 
 Helleborus niger 
 
 
 
 9 in. 
 
 White 
 
 Helleboius oiientalis, 
 
 var. 
 
 
 
 
 atroriibens 
 
 
 9 to 
 
 12 in. 
 
 Purple 
 
 Hepatica triloba 
 
 
 
 G in. 
 
 Light blue 
 
 Iris verna 
 
 
 
 G in. 
 
 Blue 
 
 Sangiiinaria Canadensis 
 
 
 Sin. 
 
 White 
 
 Trillium erectiim 
 
 
 
 12 in. 
 
 Brownish red 
 
 Boltonia {Boltonia asferoides) 
 
 Aquilegia, in variety 
 Alyssum saxatile 
 Anemone Pennsylvaniea 
 Bellis perennis 
 Convallaria majalis 
 Doronicum plantagineum, 
 var. exeelsum 
 
 MAY 
 
 
 
 IV2 to: 
 
 2y. ft. 
 
 White to blue 
 
 
 ift. 
 
 Yellow 
 
 Ito 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 White 
 
 
 G in. 
 
 White and pink 
 
 
 9 in. 
 
 White 
 
 lV>to 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 Yellow 
 
160 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 MAY — Continued 
 
 Name 
 Geum montaniim 
 Iberis semperviiens 
 Iris Germanica, in variety 
 
 Iris pumila 
 
 Myosotis palustris, var. 
 
 semperflorens 
 Paeonia officinalis and 
 
 vars. 
 Pseonia tenuifolia 
 Phlox divaricata 
 Phlox subiilata 
 Polemonium caeruleum 
 Primula in var. 
 
 Trollius Europaeiis 
 
 Aquilegia, in variety 
 Armeria maritima 
 Astilbe Japonica 
 Baptisia australis 
 Callirhoe involucrata 
 Campanula Carpatica 
 Campanula persicifolia 
 Chrysogonum Virginianum 
 Clematis recta 
 Coreopsis lanceolata 
 Coronilla varia 
 Delphinium formosum 
 Dianthus barbatus 
 Dianthus plumarius, in va- 
 riety 
 Dicentra eximia 
 Dictamnus albus 
 Digitalis purpurea 
 
 Erigeron speciosus 
 Gaillardia aristata 
 Geranium sanguineum 
 Geum coccineum 
 Heleninm Hoopesii 
 Hemerocallis. Dumortierii 
 
 Hei; 
 
 oht 
 
 Color 
 
 
 12 in. 
 
 Yellow 
 
 
 8 in. 
 
 White 
 
 lyoto 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 Purple and laven- 
 
 
 
 der 
 
 
 8 in. 
 
 Violet 
 
 
 8 in. 
 
 Light blue 
 
 ly^to 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 Various 
 
 12 to 
 
 18 in. 
 
 Crimson 
 
 10 to 
 
 18 in. 
 
 Lilac-blue 
 
 Creeping 
 
 Pink, blue, white 
 
 Ito 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 Blue 
 
 ly.to 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 Yellow, pink, pur- 
 ple 
 
 lyo to 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 
 JUNE 
 
 
 
 i%to2y2ft. 
 
 White to blue 
 
 e'to 
 
 9 in. 
 
 Pink 
 
 Ito 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 White 
 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 Blue 
 
 9 to 
 
 12 in. 
 
 Violet crimson 
 
 
 10 in. 
 
 Blue and white 
 
 ly.to 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 Violet 
 
 
 10 in. 
 
 Yellow 
 
 2 to 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 White 
 
 IVs to 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 Yellow 
 
 lyoto 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 Bright pink 
 
 3 to 
 
 4 ft. 
 
 Deep blue 
 
 ly.to 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 Mixed colors 
 
 9 to 
 
 12 in. 
 
 White to pink 
 
 Ito 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 Rose 
 
 2 to 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 White 
 
 3 to 
 
 4 ft. 
 
 White and purple- 
 spotted 
 
 
 lyo ft. 
 
 Lilac 
 
 
 ly; ft. 
 
 Yellow and maroon 
 
 12 to 
 
 18 in. 
 
 Crimson 
 
 12 to 
 
 18 in. 
 
 Scarlet 
 
 2 to 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 Orange-yellow 
 
 ly.to 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 Orange 
 
POPULAR PERENNIALS 
 
 161 
 
 
 JUNE 
 
 — Continued 
 
 
 Name 
 
 
 Height 
 
 Color 
 
 Iris Germaniea, in 
 
 var. 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 Purple and 
 
 der 
 Various 
 
 Iris laevigata 
 
 
 3 to 31/2 ft. 
 
 Iris pallida 
 
 
 2 to 3 ft. 
 
 Indigo-blue 
 
 Iris Pseudaeonis 
 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 Yellow 
 
 Iris Sibirica 
 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 Violet 
 
 Lychnis Coronaria 
 
 
 11/0 to 2 ft. 
 
 Crimson 
 
 Lychnis Haageana 
 
 
 12 in. 
 
 Red 
 
 Lychnis Viscaria, var. 
 
 
 
 splendens 
 
 
 18 in. 
 
 Blood-red 
 
 laven- 
 
 Monkshood 
 (Aconitum Napellus) 
 
 Foxglove 
 (Digitalis monstrosa) 
 
 Lysimachia nummulari 
 Lysimachia punctata 
 (Enothera fruticosa 
 Papaver nudicaule 
 
 Papaver orientale 
 Pentstemon laevigatus, ' 
 
 Digitalis 
 Pyrethrum roseum 
 Scabiosa Caucasica 
 Spiraea Aruncus 
 
 Creeping 
 
 1 to 3 ft. 
 11/2 to 3 ft. 
 
 12 to 15 in. 
 
 2 to 2% ft. 
 
 2 to 
 
 11/, to 
 
 lo to 
 
 4 to 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 18 in. 
 
 5 ft. 
 
 Yellow 
 Yellow 
 Y^ellow 
 White, yellow 
 
 orange 
 Orange, scarlet 
 
 White 
 
 Pink and red 
 
 White and blue 
 
 Wliite 
 
 and 
 
162 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 JUNE 
 
 Name 
 Spiraen Filipendula 
 Spiraea palmata 
 Spiraea palmata, var. ele- 
 
 gans 
 Spiraea Ulmaria 
 Thalictrum aquilegifolium 
 Thermopsis Caroliniana 
 Trollius Europaeus 
 Veronica rupestris 
 
 — Continued 
 
 
 Height 
 
 Color 
 
 11/2 to 2 ft. 
 
 White 
 
 2 to 4 ft. 
 
 Crimson 
 
 2 to 31/2 ft. 
 
 Pink 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 White 
 
 1 14 to 2 ft. 
 
 White 
 
 3 to 4 ft. 
 
 Yellow 
 
 11/2 to 2 ft.. 
 
 Yellow 
 
 Spreading 
 
 Blue 
 
 Achillea Millefolium, var. 
 
 rubrum 
 Achillea Ptarmica, var. 
 
 "The Pearl" 
 Altha-a rosea, in variety 
 Anthemis tinctoria 
 Belemcanda Chinensis 
 Calimeris incisa 
 Campanula alliariaefolia 
 Campanula glomerata, var. 
 
 Dahurica 
 Campanula Trachelium 
 Centaurea montana 
 Chrysanthemum maximum, 
 
 var. Triumph 
 Chrysanthemum Leucanthe- 
 
 mum hybridum 
 Cimicifuga racemosa 
 Delphinium grandiflorum, 
 
 var. Chinense 
 Digitalis ambigua 
 Echinacea purpurea 
 Eryngium amethystinum 
 Euphorbia coroUata 
 Funkia Fortunei 
 Funkia lancifolia 
 Funkia ovata 
 Gypsophila paniculata 
 Heliopsis laevis, var. 
 
 Pitcheriana 
 Hemerocallis, in variety 
 Heuchera sanguinea 
 Inula ensifolia 
 
 1 to 3 ft. Red 
 
 l%to 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 White 
 
 4 to 
 
 5 ft. 
 
 White to crimson 
 
 11/2 to 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 Yellow 
 
 3 to 
 
 4 ft. 
 
 Orange, spotted red 
 
 11/2 to 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 Lavender-blue 
 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 White 
 
 1 % to 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 White 
 
 2 to 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 Light purple 
 
 15 to 
 
 18 in. 
 
 Purple 
 
 11/2 to 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 White 
 
 11/2 to 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 White 
 
 3 to 
 
 8 ft. 
 
 White 
 
 2 to 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 Blue 
 
 2 to 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 Yellow 
 
 2% to 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 Purple 
 
 11/2 to 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 Amethyst-blue 
 
 1 to 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 White 
 
 
 2 tt. 
 
 Pale lilac 
 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 Pale lilac 
 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 Lavender 
 
 2 to 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 White 
 
 3 to 
 
 4 ft. 
 
 Yellow 
 
 2% to 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 Yellow and orange 
 
 12 to 
 
 18 in. 
 
 Coral-red 
 
 
 Bin. 
 
 Yellow 
 
POPULx\R PERENNIALS 
 
 16: 
 
 JULY 
 
 Name 
 Lnvandiila vera 
 Lyclinis Cha loedonica 
 Lychnis vespeitina, var. 
 
 flore-pleiio 
 Lysiiiiachia clethroides 
 ^lonaida didyma 
 Oenothera Missouriensis 
 ffinotliera fruticosa, var. 
 
 major 
 CEnothera speciosa 
 Pentslemon barbatus 
 
 — Continued 
 
 Height Color 
 
 1 to 3 ft. Lavender-blue 
 
 21/2 to 31/2 ft. Scarlet 
 
 1 to 2 ft. White 
 
 2 to 3 ft. White 
 2 to 3 ft. Scarlet 
 
 10 in. Yellow 
 
 15 to 18 in. Yellow 
 
 12 to 18 in. White 
 
 2 to 3 ft. Scarlet 
 
 ■ 
 
 19 
 
 K 
 
 Bf^^H 
 
 M 
 
 ^^^1 
 
 
 
 n 
 
 1^^ 
 
 
 ^^M i#^ J^PH^^^H 
 
 1 
 
 g| 
 
 M 
 
 HlQ 
 
 Clirysanthemum, " Shasta Daisy " 
 
 Pentstemon ovatiis 
 
 Phlox paniculata, in va- 
 riety 
 
 Platycodon grandifloriim 
 
 Spirffia lobata 
 
 Stachys Betonica 
 
 Statice Tatarica 
 
 Stokesia cyanea 
 
 Tradescantia Virginiana 
 
 Veronica longifolia, var. 
 rosea 
 
 Veronica Virginica 
 
 2 to 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 Rosy jHirple 
 
 ly.to 
 
 5 ft. 
 
 Various 
 
 15 to 
 
 IS in. 
 
 Blue and white 
 
 3 to 
 
 4 ft. 
 
 Pink 
 
 12 to 
 
 18 in. 
 
 Pvosy pink 
 
 12 to 
 
 15 in. 
 
 Red 
 
 15 to 
 
 18 in. 
 
 Lavender-blue 
 
 1 y. to 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 Purple 
 
 2 to 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 Rose 
 
 3 to 
 
 4 ft. 
 
 White 
 
164 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 Name 
 Asclepias tuberosa 
 Aster Novae-Angliae, var. 
 
 roseus 
 Bocconia eordata 
 Boltonia asteioides 
 Boltonia latisquama 
 Clematis Davidiana 
 Funkia siibcordata, var. 
 
 grandi flora 
 Helenium in var. 
 Helianthus in var. 
 Hibiscus Moschentos, var. 
 
 Crimson Eye 
 
 Liatris graminifolia 
 Liatris spicata 
 Phlox paniculata in var. 
 Physostegia Virginiana 
 Pvu'dbeckia laeiniata, var. 
 
 Golden Glow 
 Tviulbeckia triloba 
 Vernonia Arkansana 
 Veronica longifolia, var. 
 
 snbsessilis 
 
 AUGUST 
 
 Height 
 li/oto 2 ft. 
 
 4 to 7 ft. 
 4 to 6 ft. 
 4 to 6 ft. 
 4 ft. 
 2 to 3 ft. 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 11/2 to 6 ft. 
 
 2 to 10 ft. 
 
 4 to 5 ft. 
 
 li/Uo 
 3 to 
 
 iy>to 
 3 to 
 
 6 to 
 3 to 
 5 to 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 4 ft. 
 
 5 ft. 
 4 ft. 
 
 8 ft. 
 4 ft. 
 
 6 ft. 
 
 Color 
 Orange 
 
 Bright rose 
 \\hite 
 White 
 Light lilac 
 Lavender-blue 
 
 White 
 Yellow 
 Yellow 
 
 White, crimson cen- 
 ter 
 Eosy purple 
 Deep purple 
 Various 
 Deep rose 
 
 Double yellow 
 Yellow, black cone 
 Purple 
 
 11/2 to 3 ft. Deep blue 
 
 SEPTEMBER 
 
 Aconitum Fischeri 
 Aster Amellus, var. ele- 
 
 gans IV2 to 
 
 Campanula pyramidalis 2 to 
 
 Ceratostigma plumbaginoides 
 
 2 to 3 ft. Blue 
 
 Ch clone Lyoni 
 Chelone obliqua, var. alba 
 Chrysanthemum in var. 
 Conoclinium coelestinum 
 Eupatorium ageratoides 
 Helenium in var. 
 Helianthus in var. 
 Lobelia cardinalis 
 Lobelia syphilitica 
 Phlox paniculata, in va- 
 riety 
 
 11/, to 
 11/^ to 
 
 2 to 
 1 % to 
 
 3 to 
 1 1/0 to 
 
 2 to 
 l%to 
 
 iy~to 
 
 2 ft. 
 
 4 ft. 
 6 in. 
 2 ft. 
 2 ft. 
 4 ft. 
 
 2 ft. 
 4 ft. 
 6 ft. 
 
 10 ft. 
 
 3 ft. 
 2 ft. 
 
 Purple 
 
 Blue 
 
 Blue 
 
 Rose-purple 
 
 White 
 
 Various 
 
 Blue 
 
 Scarlet 
 
 Yellow 
 
 Yellow 
 
 Scarlet 
 
 Blue 
 
 11/2 to 5 ft. Various 
 
POPULAR PERENNIALS 165 
 
 
 " ,4^-^-^,* 
 
 
 #■■" *' ' 
 
 
 
 
 
 f 
 
 
 
 Veronica 
 ( Feronica longi folia, var. suhses/^ilis) 
 
166 
 
 YAED AND GARDEN 
 
 SEPTEMBER — Continued 
 Name Height Color 
 
 Rudbeckia in var. 1 to 8 ft. Yellow 
 
 Sedum spectabilie 12 to 15 in. Rose 
 
 Senecio pulcher IVs to 3 ft. Rosy purple 
 
 Aconitnm autiimnale 
 Anemone Japonica, in va- 
 riety 
 Aster Tataricus 
 Chrvsantliemum in var. 
 Solidago, in variety 
 
 OCTOBER 
 
 
 
 4 to 
 
 6 ft. 
 
 Blue 
 
 2 to 
 
 3 ft. 
 
 White to carmine 
 
 4 to 
 
 7 ft. 
 
 Purple 
 
 2 to 
 
 4 ft. 
 
 Various 
 
 2 to 
 
 oft. 
 
 Yellow 
 
 Plantain Lily 
 
 {FunJcia suhcordata var. 
 
 grandifiora) 
 
 Yellow Day Lily 
 ( HemerocalUs aiirantiaca, 
 var. major) 
 
 [This list is based on an average season in 
 the latitude of Philadelphia ; a rough and ready 
 calculation allows six days' difference, either 
 earlier or later, to every degree of latitude 
 south or north.] 
 
POPULAR PERENNIALS 
 
 167 
 
 CARE AND ARRANGEMENT OF PERENNIALS 
 
 While perennials, once established, demand 
 little attention compared to annuals, this does 
 not mean that thev will continue healthful and 
 
 Transplanting hardy perennials 
 
 vigorous if neglected. On the contrary, they 
 demand care and cultivation. In addition to 
 the division, which must not be neglected where 
 the plants show plainly— as they will — that 
 they need it, weeds must be suppressed and 
 
168 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 the surface soil must be kept open and loose. 
 For this latter purpose, as well as for weeding, 
 no tool is better than a digging fork with prongs 
 three inches long and an inch apart. In pulver- 
 izing the surface soil with this, be careful not 
 to injure surface roots and avoid working the 
 ground when it is wet. Watering„also, must be 
 looked after wherever water for such purposes 
 is available — few city yards are without such 
 supply — and the moisture should be applied 
 liberally. Soak the ground thoroughly, not 
 merely sprinkling the surface and the foliage 
 of the plants, and make sure that the supply 
 reaches the roots. 
 
 It can be readily understood that no arrange- 
 ment of perennials in beds or borders that does 
 not take into consideration the heights, colors 
 and blooming periods of the plants can prove 
 satisfactory. It is necessary to know the 
 heights of the various species employed in 
 order to avoid planting the taller-growing va- 
 rieties in front of the dwarf sorts; it is neces- 
 sary to know the colors of the bloom in order 
 to avoid a clash of tints and shades which, if 
 grown in juxtaposition, would prove anything 
 but harmonious; and it is necessary to know 
 the blodming seasons of the plants in order to 
 
POPULAR PERENNIx\LS 169 
 
 insure a succession of flowers. When these few 
 points are mastered — surely not much to know 
 about plants which are to be introduced in our 
 yards or gardens as our companions for several 
 years to come — effective groupings can be ar- 
 ranged without difficulty. For instance, where 
 peonies are planted, phloxes could also be 
 used ; the bed or border then would not be bar- 
 ren of bloom when the peonies have departed 
 in early summer. As another instance, orien- 
 tal poppies would not be planted by themselves 
 if the situation selected were a conspicuous one^ 
 for the planner and planter would know that, 
 by the end of June, when the poppies have 
 bloomed, the foliage of the plants becomes rag- 
 ged and, a little later, disappears entirely. To 
 avoid leaving a gap in the border or a barren 
 bed in the yard, other perennials, later in their 
 period of blooming, would be planted with the 
 poppies to follow with flower and foliage when 
 the latter have ceased to be decorative. 
 
 Perennials serve another exceedingly useful 
 purpose when planted with shrubs. When the 
 blossom of the latter has passed, the herbaceous 
 plants will throw their flower spikes to add a 
 touch of color here, another there, to groups 
 which otherwise would be without flower. 
 
CHAPTER IX 
 
 BULBOUS- AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS 
 
 No class of plants presents more commenda- 
 ble features for planting on the small city lot 
 than the bulhous- and tuberous-rooted section 
 and none will more richly reward the amateur 
 for the labor and time he may expend in estab- 
 lishing them. They are almost certain to pros- 
 per under his treatment, provided a few sim- 
 ple and easily mastered rules are followed. 
 Much of the spring charm of well-planted yards 
 can be attributed almost exclusively to the free 
 use of plants of this order and so far as later 
 months are concerned, we have only to reflect 
 upon the many flowers of this character, bloom- 
 ing until autumn frosts cut them down, to rec- 
 ognize and appreciate their extraordinary 
 claims upon our attention. 
 
 Every year hundreds of thousands and prob- 
 ably millions of hyacinths, tulips, crocuses, 
 narcissi and other bulbs are planted and, con- 
 sidering the immense numbers set out, it is 
 
 170 
 
BULBS 
 
 171 
 
172 YAED AND GAKDEN 
 
 safe to say that no other class of plants brings 
 so few disappointments to the cultivator. 
 This is accounted for, of course, by the great 
 ease with which they may be brought into bloom 
 and by the readiness with which they seem to 
 be able to adapt themselves rapidly to various 
 conditions of soil and situation. Only occa- 
 sionally do they fail, but even in such instances, 
 provided the bulbs have been properly planted, 
 the fault can not always be laid at the door 
 of the amateur. It may be traceable to the 
 bulb beds of Holland where the plants were 
 brought forward to the flowering stage before 
 they were offered to purchasers. 
 
 VARIETY OF TUBEROUS PLANTS 
 
 In speaking of bulbs, botanical definitions 
 are not generally observed. Commercially the 
 term applies to a considerable class of flower- 
 ing and ornamental plants which, were it 
 strictly employed, would be excluded from the 
 list. Nurserymen and dealers in seeds and 
 bulbs, however, include in this class in addition 
 to true bulbs many that are known by botanists 
 as conns, such as the Crocus and Gladiolus ; suc- 
 culent tubers, as the Dahlia; fleshy, creeping 
 rhizomatous roots, such as are possessed by 
 
BULBS 173 
 
 some varieties of iris; pips, such, for example, 
 as the flowering crowns of the lily-of-the-val- 
 ley and other fasciculated fleshy roots, such as 
 those of the ranunculus or peony. 
 
 Very few present any difficult problems so 
 far as cultivation is concerned and the com- 
 moner sorts especially are easily raised. As a 
 rule, all of them produce flowers of extraordi- 
 nary beauty which not infrequently are deli- 
 ciously fragrant. They comprise, moreover, 
 endless variety in color, form, size and habit, 
 and are adaptable on this account for many 
 purposes. An advantage, often overlooked, is 
 the fact that, following their season of bloom, 
 their foliage matures and falls and no part of 
 the plant shows above the ground to present an 
 unsightly, faded appearance. When this tran- 
 sition has occurred and the period of rest is en- 
 tered they can in most instances be lifted and 
 stored away for future use, and in the beds 
 they occupied new plants may be set to con- 
 tinue the succession of bloom throughout the 
 season. 
 
 Although this class embraces almost num- 
 berless varieties, nurserymen divide the group 
 into two divisions — hardy varieties, which 
 withstand freezing, and the tender varieties 
 
174 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
BULBS 17.5 
 
 which do not. The first is more popular al- 
 though in the latter division there are a num- 
 ber of plants whose beauty and ease of culture 
 should commend them for more liberal use. 
 To the first belong hyacinths, tulips, narcissi, 
 crocuses and similar bulbs, and to the second 
 belong crinums, the tuberous begonias, C'oop- 
 erias, montbretias, callas (Richardias), tube- 
 roses, tigridias and other garden bulbs usually 
 planted in the spring. 
 
 By judicious selection of varieties from both 
 divisions it is possible to have bulbous- and tu- 
 berous-rooted plants in bloom from frost to 
 frost, and, if the city resident be the happy pos- 
 sessor of a small greenhouse or conservatory, 
 there need be no month in the year without its 
 wealth of bloom from this order of plants alone. 
 In March, in the northern states, and earlier 
 in the more southern portion of the country, 
 snowdrops, scillas, crocuses, winter aconites 
 and chionodoxas usher in the first days of 
 spring with a glory of bloom all the more beau- 
 tiful because of its earliness. In April come 
 the hyacinths, tulips, narcissi, in all their nu- 
 merous varieties, followed later in the month 
 and in May by the late tulips, the poets' daf- 
 fodils, and as the season progresses, by irises, 
 
176 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 peonies, lilies, gladioli, montbretias, tuberoses 
 and other similar flowering bulbs. 
 
 It is probably with the hyacinths, tulips and 
 narcissi that we are most familiar. These are 
 used for many purposes, appear in many situa- 
 
 Dahlia 
 
 Caniiu 
 
 tions and, wherever and whenever they are 
 grown, add beauty, life and color to the early 
 months of spring. 
 
 PREPARATION OF THE BED 
 
 In the cultivation of all varieties two things 
 are of commanding importance: first the prep- 
 aration of the ground, and second the season 
 of planting. So far as the first is concerned, 
 
BULBS 177 
 
 it may be taken as a general rnle that bulbs 
 prefer a light, well-drained, moderately rich 
 soil. Prepare the bed in which they are to grow 
 by digging it at least fourteen inches deep. If 
 the soil encountered is heavy and it appears 
 that but little can be done with it by the addition 
 of materials calculated to lighten it, throw it 
 out and substitute good soil. In every case it 
 is always best, if possible, to put a layer of 
 small stones at the bottom for drainage. It is 
 best in the long run to prepare the bulb bed 
 carefully and, even where the soil is of proper 
 texture, for best results it would be advisable 
 for the cultivator to excavate it to the depth 
 already mentioned, place the drainage on the 
 bottom and upon this throw in the soil until it 
 reaches a level upon which it is desired to set 
 the bulbs. Prepare this surface, which may be 
 anywhere from one to eight inches below the 
 surrounding surface, by covering it with a thin 
 layer of clean, sharp, grit sand. Place the 
 l)ulbs upon this blanket and then add the re- 
 maining earth until the surface of the bed 
 stands slightly higher than the ground sur- 
 rounding it. This elevation allows for settling. 
 While this is the best and surest process for 
 planting the bulbs, where it is not convenient to 
 
178 
 
 YAKD AND GARDEN 
 
 follow it the beg'imier need not feel that fail- 
 ure will be the result of his efforts. On the 
 contrary, bulbs respond generously where even 
 indifferent treatment is given them. It will not 
 be indifferent treatment, however, to plant bulbs 
 in carefully spaded ground by less arduous 
 methods. You may, for instance, content your- 
 
 Flowers of Tuberous- Rooted Beffoiiia 
 
 self with spading the ground to the required 
 depth, pulverizing the surface soil, and then, 
 by means of a dibble, set out the bulbs. When 
 the hole is made with this instrument it should 
 be at a greater depth than is actually required, 
 to permit of the addition of enough sand to 
 form a cushion upon which the bulb may rest. 
 
BULBS 179 
 
 After the ])iilb is inserted in the hole thus pre- 
 pared, complete the process by filling the hole 
 with earth. 
 
 CULTIVATION 
 
 Most bulbs resent the presence of fresh ma- 
 nure in the soil, and, though this does not mean 
 that they do not require rich rooting material, 
 they often disappoint the planter who has too 
 generously applied his fertilizer. It has fre- 
 quently been said that under no circumstances 
 should manure be added to the soil of the bulb 
 bed, but this can not be accepted as a guide 
 without amendment. It would be better and 
 more to the point to say that manure is not to 
 be added to the soil in such manner that it will 
 be brought into direct contact with the bulbs. 
 By all means add the manure, but see to it that 
 it is well rotted, is below the bulbs and is thor- 
 oughly incorporated with the soil and that the 
 bulbs themselves are well surrounded by the 
 cushion of sand already mentioned. In no in- 
 stance, however, even where the sand is most 
 generously employed, is it safe to plant bulbs 
 in beds containing fresh manure. 
 
 In the planting of bulbs, consideration must 
 be had for the kind of plant with which the gar- 
 
180 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 dener is dealing, for some require different soil 
 and diff'erent situation or exposure, from others. 
 The liliums, for example, would not prosper in 
 a situation that would be regarded as ideal for 
 daffodils and these, loving the sun, would find 
 the ideal for liliums not so much to their liking. 
 Then, too, where the area to he planted is small 
 — as it is in most city yards — some attention 
 should be given to the soil requirements of the 
 different bulbous- and tuberous-rooted plants. 
 If one kind demands more food than another, 
 it is not difficult to satisfy its appetite, and, on 
 the other hand, if a bulb prefers a soil of less 
 food value its demand may l)e satisfied by sup- 
 plying fertilizer or manure in lighter quantities. 
 It is often desirable to plant the bulbs in bor- 
 ders instead of in beds, or between shrubs or 
 hardy perennials. In such situations, the only 
 requirement in many cases will be the prepara- 
 tion of the hole for the reception of the bulb 
 by use of the dibble and, after adding the sand, 
 the insertion of the bulbs. Usually the soil in 
 borders where shrubs or perennials thrive is 
 rich enough for bulbs but, should there be any 
 doubt on this point, it is not by any means a 
 matter of great difficulty to remove the top soil 
 for a depth of six or seven inches and to incor- 
 
BITLPnS 
 
 181 
 
 Flower of tlie Cam:.! 
 
182 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 porate in the soil beneath enough decomposed 
 manure to insure healthy and vigorous growth. 
 The daffodils, of all the different kinds of 
 bulbs that are grown in our gardens or yards, 
 prefer the richest soil. 
 
 SEASON FOR PLANTING BULBS 
 
 Nowadays many nurserymen contend that 
 hardy bulbs may be planted as late in the fall 
 as the ground can be worked. Their cata- 
 logues, almost without exception, advise the 
 purchaser that good, results are to be obtained 
 from bulbs planted even as late as Christmas 
 and that they will flower as satisfactorily as 
 those planted earlier in the fall. This is not 
 only misleading, but absolutely incorrect. 
 Bulbs planted late in the autumn are never as 
 satisfactory as those planted earlier in the 
 season. With daffodils, for instance, there is 
 an absolute loss of strength and vigor when the 
 planting is postponed later than October but 
 when, on the other hand, the planting is done at 
 an earlier date, even as early as the latter part 
 of August, there is a material gain. Still, 
 avoid too early planting, for cool weather is 
 necessary to deter top growth, which is likely to 
 make its appearance six weeks after the bulbs 
 
BULBS 183 
 
 are set unless winter is nera- enong'li at band to 
 put a stop to such a display of ambition. In 
 sbort, plant tbe bulbs seven or eight weeks be- 
 fore frosty nights are likely to put in their ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 Many planters advise setting the bulbs from 
 two to four times their depth beneath the sur- 
 face but this must never be taken as a hard and 
 fast rule. Lilies, for instance, require a greater 
 depth, and in all cases the deeper the bulbs are 
 set the later the flowers in the spring and, pos- 
 sibly, on this account the better the results. 
 
 WINTER PROTECTION OF BULBS 
 
 In the case of the spring-flowering varieties, 
 winter protection should be afforded as soon as 
 the ground freezes slightly in the autumn. Do 
 not cover the beds with the idea in mind of pre- 
 venting the light freezing, but rather with the 
 idea of overcoming the heaving of the soil due 
 to alternate freezing and thawing. Use leaves 
 — preferably those from hard-wooded trees, 
 for these mat down less than those from the 
 softer-wooded varieties — or straw, and apply 
 at least two or three inches of such litter. Hy- 
 acinths should be more thoroughly protected 
 than tulips and the latter should be provided 
 
184 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 with a four- or five-inch layer of leaves or litter. 
 One of the fine points in bulb culture is the 
 removal of this winter mulch early enough in 
 the spring to harden the young growths. If 
 they are allowed to come up under the covering, 
 penetrate through the mulch and become drawn 
 and yellow they are in no condition to resist a 
 suden freeze. It is best to remove the mulch 
 by degrees beginning early in March by dis- 
 posing of an inch of the litter and following 
 this by the removal of subsequent layers until, 
 by the time all danger of frost is past, no cover 
 remains on the beds. Should the beginner be- 
 lieve, however, that the weather justifies his 
 removing the litter all at once he will show his 
 wisdom by having it close at hand so that a 
 light cover may be hastily applied should the 
 weather suddenly threaten a damaging cold 
 spell. 
 
 LIFTING AND DIVIDING 
 
 It is always a question to determine how long 
 bulbs should be allowed to remain without lift- 
 ing and dividing them. This, however, is usu- 
 ally answered by attending circumstances. It 
 may be desirable in some situations to set out 
 bedding plants or to grow annuals or perennials 
 in the beds which have been left bare by the 
 
BULBS 
 
 185 
 
 blooming and passing of the flowers and foliage 
 of tlie bulbs. In such cases allow the foliage 
 to remain until it turns yellow and withers — 
 which generally requires six weeks — and then 
 carefully lift the bulbs, dry them and store them 
 away for use the next fall. But, where the 
 beds are permanent, or colonies are esta])lished 
 
 Torch Lily 
 (Kniphofia aloides) 
 
 Canada Lily 
 ( Lilium Oanadense ) 
 
 in herbaceous borders, the rule is to dig up 
 only when the flowers show deterioration. If, 
 after the first season or two, the blooms are 
 neither so healthy nor so large as they were in 
 the beginning, it is a fair indication that the 
 cultural conditions are not congenial and the 
 bulbs should be lifted as soon as the foliage dies 
 
186 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 and reset in soil better prepared and better 
 adapted for their growth. If, however, the 
 bulbs show no deterioration, let them remain 
 undisturbed until, due to the natural processes 
 of propagation, they become so crowded as to 
 show by smaller flowers that they are too thickly 
 set. Where the soil is not very rich, several 
 seasons may pass before this sign of distress 
 warns the gardener of the need of lifting and 
 replanting. Daffodils, for example, may remain 
 undisturbed, often for four or five years, and 
 the peony, representative of the most perma- 
 nent "bulbous" plant, may be allowed to re- 
 main undisturbed in rich soil, provided it has 
 room to extend its growth, for ten or twenty 
 years. Still, it must be remembered that, in 
 what is called high-grade bedding where, as a 
 general rule, only tulips and hyacinths and oc- 
 casionally daffodils are used, bulbs planted in 
 the fall, after blooming in the following spring, 
 should be dug up and planted elsewhere, usually 
 in the borders, and the next autumn new bulbs 
 should be set out. 
 
 HARDY BULBS 
 
 One of the most delightful ways of growing 
 bulbs is the cultivation of the hardy species in 
 
BULBS 187 
 
 the lawn. This method of planting is espe- 
 cially suitable for suburban grounds where the 
 area is more extensive than in cities. In cities 
 occasionally it is employed but seldom satis- 
 factorily, for the bulbs, after flowering, are not 
 allowed to complete their process of growth 
 before it is considered necessary to mow the 
 
 Kramer's Lily 
 
 {Lilium Japonicum, var. roseum, known to the trade as 
 
 Lilium Kramcri) 
 
 lawn. Where their leaves are thus sacrificed 
 the bulbs deteriorate and lose their value. 
 Practically all the hardy bulbs do well in the 
 grass if the place is properly prepared for them 
 by remo^dng a portion of the turf, forking up 
 the earth beneath, planting them and then re- 
 
188 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 placing the turf. But, wherever this method 
 is followed, it must be borne in mind that on no 
 occasion must the grass be cut until the plants 
 ripen their leaves. This is always shown by 
 the foliage turning yellow and withering. 
 Neglect of this simple point has been the cause 
 of disappointments in many instances where 
 fall-planting by this method has been pursued 
 on a large scale. 
 
 DECORATIVE ARRANGEMENT 
 
 When planting in the grass do not arrange 
 the bulbs in regular lines or designs. Avoid 
 the possibility of such arrangement resulting 
 even accidentally by standing upright with the 
 hands full of bulbs and allowing them to drop 
 where they will and planting them where they 
 fall. This method usually distributes the bulbs 
 etfectively and, at the same time, gives a center 
 colony, or well-marked group, from which the 
 bulbs appear to stray in all directions. The 
 crocus, chionodoxas, snowdrop, Scilla amoena, 
 and bulbocodium, winter aconite, and snow 
 flakes are suitable for planting in the grass. 
 All of these will grow, increase, bloom and 
 ripen the foliage before it is really necessary 
 to use the lawn-mower, but not before the 
 
BULBS 
 
 189 
 
 grass, especially in cities, will require cutting, 
 if the appearances of the lawn are to be con- 
 sidered. 
 
 While many persons seem to realize that pur- 
 poseless planting of flowers, shrubs, vines or 
 trees on the lawn is in poor taste, still there are 
 not a few who seem to consider that an excep- 
 
 tion may be made of the bulbous plants. But 
 as a matter of fact, the same rule holds with 
 this class as with all others. The star-shaped, 
 square-shaped, round-shaped bed of tulips or 
 hyacinths set down without reason or sense in 
 the center of a lawn invariably discloses poor 
 judgment. Moreover, it is as expensive as it 
 
190 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 is gaudy and vulgar. And in the city another 
 objection to this method of planting is that the 
 beds, being on display, usually attract the small 
 boy or other marauder who, when he has helped 
 himself to such bloom as he may desire, has ab- 
 solutely ruined the appearance of the design 
 and destroyed the only virtue possessed by the 
 geometric horror, its symmetry. 
 
 Bulbs should not be planted with less pur- 
 pose than other plants. Use them in corners, 
 in borders, in shrubberies and between her- 
 baceous plants wherever space permits. As an 
 example of one use to which bulbs may legiti- 
 mately be put in this connection, there is, along 
 the south side of one city house, a border be- 
 tween the foundation and the walk three feet 
 wide in which are planted plantain lilies, (Fiin- 
 kia suhcordata, var. grandiflora), which, as they 
 develop their foliage, conceal the foundation 
 wall, and the well-known poet's narcissus (A^. 
 poeticus), and N. poeticus ornatus. The latter 
 blooms earlier than the poet's narcissus and 
 is set out in front of its companions. In this 
 border, some forty feet long, these daffodils are 
 planted three or four inches apart and in four 
 rows. They are through blooming before the 
 funkia has developed its foliage, and while 
 
BULBS 
 
 191 
 
 Madonna Lily {LUiiim candidiim) 
 
192 YAKD AND aARDEN 
 
 they are in bloom they not only perfume the air, 
 but serve, to some extent at least, as a screen. 
 
 Another effective composition is the use of 
 tulips — especially the May-flowering varieties 
 — with dwarf deciduous and evergreen shrubs. 
 As the somber winter browns and the dull 
 greens of the deciduous and evergreen plants 
 give way before the magic touch of spring, they 
 are suddenly converted into an ideal setting for 
 an array of brilliantly colored flowers. Fur- 
 thermore, blooms cut from such plantations of 
 bulbs are not missed as they are when taken 
 from formal beds where the removal of a single 
 blossom mars the perfection of the whole de- 
 sign. 
 
 Hardy bulbous plants may be used effectively 
 in borders by themselves and occasionally bold 
 clumps of the taller plants of the sort may not 
 be ineffective when given a somewhat isolated 
 position. In almost every instance, however, 
 they show to best advantage when supplied 
 with a background of shrubbery or of taller- 
 growing plants. 
 
 In such situations, where the object desired 
 is a brilliant mass of one color, which is all the 
 more striking on account of the contrast with 
 
BULBS 193 
 
 the surroundings, bemerocallis may be used or 
 such lilies as auratum, speciosum or tigrinum. 
 The German and Japanese irises, tritomas, 
 and montbretias also appear to advantage. 
 
CHAPTER X 
 
 SOME POPULAR HARDY BULBS 
 
 Usually the hyacinth is given the place of 
 first importance among hardy bulbs but this 
 does not indicate by any means that the hya- 
 cinth is deserving of an honor so great. As 
 a matter of fact, this sort of classification de- 
 pends largely upon individual taste. Tulips 
 are given second place and narcissi third. But 
 there are a number of gardeners who would re- 
 verse this classification and give the narcissus 
 the position of honor. And there is good 
 reason for this. In the first place the varie- 
 ties of this prime favorite are almost without 
 number, they are easily cultivated and gener- 
 ally certain in results. They may remain in 
 the ground undisturbed for a longer period 
 than hyacinths or tulips and under such treat- 
 ment will prosper. They are especially 
 adapted for planting in mixed borders between 
 shrubbery, along walks and drives and will 
 thrive in almost any soil or situation. They 
 194 
 
POPULAR HARDY BULBS 195 
 
 attain greater perfection, however, when the 
 treatment accorded them is liberaL But, given 
 a thoroughly drained soil of a moderately rich, 
 loamy character in which there is a generous 
 amount of sharp sand, they will succeed very 
 well when no further cultivation is accorded 
 them. 
 
 NARCISSI 
 
 Narcissi lend themselves well to naturaliz- 
 ing. This method of planting, however, has 
 little to recommend it to the owner of a small 
 city yard, but where it is desired to have early 
 flowers on the grounds of a large suburban 
 home or country estate, this feature of the nar- 
 cissi is well worth considering. Thousands of 
 them may l)e- planted along the banks of a 
 stream, in a bit of meadow or wood and in such 
 situations will form a floral picture of surpas- 
 sing loveliness. For this purpose the poet's 
 narcissus (iV. poeticiis), is probably the best, 
 but nearly all daffodils may be naturalized to 
 advantage. 
 
 While the colors of the narcissi are confined 
 to a very narrow range of yellow and yellowish 
 white, some are pure white and others, recently 
 produced, have red trumpets. Still the coloring, 
 though it might be considered by some monot- 
 
196 
 
 YAKD AND GARDEN 
 
 onous, is one of the chief charms of this group 
 of hardy bulbs. The yellow, like rays of sun- 
 shine sifted through green foliage, is especially 
 welcome in the early spring. For formal bed- 
 ding, however, tulips and hyacinths should be 
 relied upon and the daffodils omitted. The lat- 
 ter may be planted any time between August 
 
 Erytluoniuin 
 
 Poet's Narcissus 
 
 and November and the earlier they are set the 
 better; they make roots earlier in the autumn 
 than most of the other spring-blooming bulbs 
 and on this account demand earlier planting. 
 The poeticus types especially require early 
 planting for they begin to throw out their new 
 roots almost l)efore the old have withered. 
 
POPULAR IIAPtDY BULBS 197 
 
 These thrive in almost any i^ood garden soil 
 and only demand that the situation be well 
 drained. 
 
 It is almost impossible to say which daffodils 
 are the best for out of doors planting. But it 
 is probably safe to designate the Golden Spur 
 as one of the 1)est yellow trumpets for the small 
 garden. Other good trumpet sorts of an all- 
 yellow color are the Emperor and the Glory of 
 Leiden. Among the bi-colors, Victoria, Em- 
 press and Horsefieldi are the best. Li the all- 
 white group, the best for general use are Mrs. 
 Thompson, William Goldring and Madame de 
 Graaff. It is not likely, however, that the 
 Madame de Graaif will be very extensively 
 planted for years to come. It is expensive and, 
 though beautiful, for ordinary purposes, it is 
 hardly worth the high price which it now com- 
 mands when other varieties of trumpet nar- 
 cissi are to be had from twenty to sixty cents a 
 dozen. 
 
 The Horsefieldi, with large flowers of pure 
 white perianth and rich yellow trumpet always 
 strikingly beautiful, is difficult to obtain in good 
 condition; frequenth^ it decays in the packages 
 and reliable nurserymen will import it only at 
 the purchaser 's risk. The Empress, which is not 
 
198 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 only well adapted for planting in small yards, 
 but is also happy when naturalized in orchards 
 or meadows, is really an improved Horsefieldi 
 and entirely free from disease; its flower pos- 
 sesses a pure white perianth with yellow 
 trumpet. The Emperor is one of the largest 
 daffodils in cultivation and breeds a superb 
 flower of a golden yellow color. These two, 
 both cheap, are among the best that can be 
 planted. Other desirable varieties are the Bul- 
 bocodium, or the hoop-petticoat narcissus, with 
 rich golden-yellow flowers, the Maximus, Henry 
 Irving and Major. 
 
 Among the incomparabilis varieties. Sir Wat- 
 kin, with very large petals of a rich sulphur- 
 yellow color and large cup tinged with orange, 
 is one of the best; the flowers are sometimes 
 five inches in diameter and appear very early 
 and are borne freely. Others that are good 
 are Stella Superba with a white perianth and 
 yellow cup, the Figaro with yellow cup and 
 perianth colored orange and the Cynosure with 
 large creamy-white petals and cup of the same 
 color stained with Orange-scarlet. In the Barrii 
 group, Conspicuus, with large yellow flowers 
 and bright red-edged* crown, is undoubtedly the 
 best and at the same time the cheapest. In the 
 
POPULAR HARDY BULBS 
 
 199 
 
200 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 Leedsii, Mrs. Langtry, with flowers of a pale 
 creamy yellow borne freely and excellent for 
 cutting', is at the head. The two best varieties 
 of the fragrant poet's narcissus are the well- 
 known poet's narcissus itself, sometimes called 
 pheasant 's-eye, and N. poeticus ornatus which 
 blooms earlier. The most important of the 
 double daffodils are the Van Sion and Sulphur 
 Phoenix. 
 
 HYACINTHS 
 
 Hyacinths are not difficult to raise when good 
 bulbs are obtained. They should be planted at 
 least four inches deep and on a cushion of clean 
 sand. They are more susceptible to injury 
 from frost than other bulbs planted in the fall 
 and should on this account be more heavily cov- 
 ered during the winter. Many planters pur- 
 chase the bedding varieties, but if the largest 
 spikes of bloom and most perfect flowers are 
 desired it is better to obtain only ^' named" va- 
 rieties which, though they are more expensive, 
 produce a far more satisfactory display in the 
 spring than the cheaper varieties. The planter 
 must not expect from a hyacinth bulb the second 
 season the same fine flowers it produced the 
 first. The spikes are smaller and the bells are 
 not so numerous. On this account many grow- 
 
POPULAR HARDY BULBS 
 
 201 
 
 ers are disappointed and, after an experience 
 of this sort, are inclined to consider hyacinths 
 as difficult to grow, but it must be remembered 
 that this is a peculiarity of the bulb itself and 
 is not due to any lack of proper culture. The 
 most satisfactory method of planting them 
 is to remove ^xe or six inches of the top soil 
 
 Hyacinths 
 
 in which they are to be set, carefully spade 
 up the sub-soil to a depth of twelve inches 
 or more and, making the surface of this fine, 
 spread over it a half-inch layer of sand and 
 on this set the bulbs. Hyacinths when thus 
 planted are set at a uniform depth and con- 
 sequently throw their bloom spikes at practi- 
 
202 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 cally the same time in the spring. This 
 method of planting is also to be recommended 
 because it enables the planter to place the 
 different colors with precision — a iDoint in 
 display-bedding when either hyacinths or 
 tulips are employed that is of considerable 
 importance. It is never advisable to set the 
 bulbs closer than six inches. 
 
 To obtain the shades of color which may 
 be desired in formal beds the following varie- 
 ties are to be recommended: Norma, pink; 
 Robert Steiger, deep crimson; Madame Van- 
 derhoop, pure white; Leonidas, light blue; 
 Baron van Thuyll, dark blue, and Ida, citron 
 yellow. All these are single hyacinths. The 
 double varieties of hyacinths, although the 
 flowers last longer than the single varieties, 
 have a heavy appearance and lack the dis- 
 tinctive form of the single type. 
 
 While occasionally the practice is made of 
 setting hyacinths and tulips in. the same bed 
 it is seldom if ever advisable. The colors 
 are not likely to prove pleasing as the various 
 shades of the two classes usually clash 
 harshly. But tulips by themselves are always 
 effective especially when the best or named 
 varieties are planted. Superior results can 
 
POPULAR HAEDY BULBS 
 
 203 
 
 not be expected from inferior bulbs whether 
 they are of tulips, hyacinths, narcissi or any 
 of the other spring-blooming bulbs. 
 
 TULIPS 
 
 There is no reason why tulips should not 
 be even more liberally planted than they are, 
 for, considering the slight cost of good bulbs 
 
 Parrot Tulips 
 
 May-flowering Tulips 
 
 and the little trouble involved in their culti- 
 vation, the effects produced are amazingly 
 striking. They should be planted preferably 
 the last veek in October or the first week in 
 November and it is always best to have the 
 ground in good condition a fortnight in ad- 
 
204 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 vance of the planting. While it is sometimes 
 thought that tulips may be planted as late as 
 December, it is never advisable, except in the 
 South, to postpone to so late a date the work 
 of setting out the bulbs; they require time to 
 develop their roots before winter sets in and 
 puts a stop to the process. In preparing the 
 bed, elevate it slightly and slope it from the cen- 
 ter toward the edges so that good drainage 
 will be insured. Tulips, like hyacinths, should 
 be planted on a cushion of sand and should be 
 set about five inches apart and covered with 
 not less than four inches of good soil. After 
 the beds are made, firm the earth to prevent 
 its heaving by the action of the frost. When 
 a slight freezing has hardened the surface soil 
 to a depth of an inch or two, cover the beds 
 with leaves or litter. 
 
 When tulip bulbs are planted in the borders 
 — where they always appear to great ad- 
 vantage — they may be left in the ground un- 
 disturbed for several seasons, but when they 
 are planted in beds which, after the tulips 
 have bloomed, are to receive summer-flower- 
 ing plants, the bulbs should be removed, dried, 
 and stored away to be planted the following 
 autumn. They should not be lifted, however, 
 
POPULAR HARDY BULBS 205 
 
 until the leaves have turned yellow and thus 
 indicate that the bulb has completed its sea- 
 son's work in preparation for next year's 
 flower. In lifting the bull)s it will be found 
 that sets have been formed around the base; 
 if it is desired, these may be planted sep- 
 arately in a sandy loam where, in the course 
 of two or three years, they will develop into 
 bulbs of a flowering size. 
 
 Tulips are usually listed l)y dealers under the 
 heads of early single tulips, early double tulips, 
 late double tulips, parrot tulips, late garden or 
 May-flowering tulips and Darwins. The best 
 early singles for outdoor planting are the fol- 
 lowing: Artus, dark scarlet; Belle Alliance, 
 bright scarlet ; Brutus, scarlet ; Rose Gris-de-lin, 
 the best bright pink; Chrysolora, the best early 
 yellow ; Canary Bird, yellow ; Pottebakker, pure 
 yellow; Pottebakker White, pure white; La 
 Reine, rosy white. Of the double-flowering 
 tulips, none of which is equal to the single but 
 all of which are valued because the blooms are 
 more lasting, the best are. La Oandeur, pure 
 white; Couronne d'Or, yellow; Duke of York, 
 carmine with white edge; Rex Rubrorum, 
 bright scarlet; Couronne des Roses, deep pink. 
 These are all early varieties of the double class ; 
 
206 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 of the late-blooming double tulips, which usually 
 come into bloom in May, the best are Yellow 
 Rose, golden-yellow; Blue Flag, violet-blue; 
 Peony Gold, red and yellow; Marriage de ma 
 Fille, white, striped with carmine. 
 
 The parrot tulips form an odd and interest- 
 ing section, but the flowers lack the neat pre- 
 
 Gladiolus 
 
 Montbietia 
 
 cision of outline which seems to be the tulip's 
 chief characteristic, the petals being irregu- 
 larly cut and fringed with a variety of colors. 
 All the parrots are exceedingly effective and 
 always striking when planted in borders where 
 they thrive if left undisturbed. The best va- 
 rieties of these are Admiral of Constantinople, 
 
POPULAR HARDY BULBS 207 
 
 orange-red and scarlet; Cramoisie Brillhint, 
 scarlet; Lutea Major, golden yellow; Markgraaf 
 van Baden, golden yellow inside, outside 
 feathered scarlet, purple and green. All bloom 
 in * May and prefer a light sandy soil and a 
 sunny location. 
 
 In the judgment of many, the best tulip for 
 the average city yard is the May-flowering or 
 cottage garden tulip. Flowers of this group 
 come into bloom from two to four weeks later 
 than the earlier varieties and usually at a time 
 when the flowers are more appreciated. The 
 blooms are superior as cut flowers and last a 
 week or more in water. All varieties are of 
 a free and graceful habit, attaining a height 
 of from eighteen to twenty-four inches and 
 bearing their exquisitely colored flowers on 
 long, strong stems. These tulips can be 
 planted to great advantage in both beds and 
 borders and under either method of cultiva- 
 tion generally produce better results than 
 the early type. Among the best of the section 
 are: Bouton d'Or, deep golden yellow; 
 Gesneriana spathulata, dazzling scarlet; La 
 Nigrette, almost black in color; Maiden Blush 
 or Picotee, a beautiful blush white; Bridesmaid, 
 cherry rose, pinkish white stripes ; La Candeur, 
 
208 YAED AND GARDEN 
 
 pure white; Eirefly, In'illiant orange, and Re- 
 troflexa, a bright yellow tulip with recurved 
 petals. 
 
 Late-flowering tulips are again divided and 
 flowers of the sub-group are known as Show or 
 Florists' tulii^s. In this division are the bi- 
 zarres, bybloemens, and roses. The bizarre has 
 a yellow ground with red, brown, scarlet or 
 crimson shades. The bybloemen has a white 
 ground upon which markings of black, brown, 
 lilac, etc., show. The rose possesses a white 
 ground upon which bright markings of pink, 
 scarlet and crimson show. Breeder or ''moth- 
 er" tulips, or selfs, bear flowers without 
 markings, but with yellow bases, the upper por- 
 tion of the petals being self-colored white, rose, 
 scarlet, red, brown or purple. The Darwins 
 belong to the self-colored group and are im- 
 proved "mother" tulips, as a matter of fact, 
 surpassing in color and brilliancy all other 
 tulips. The best of these — and no garden can 
 'have too many — are Ouida, carmine-red; Nau- 
 tica, purplish-rose ; Kate Greenaway, white and 
 lilac-rose; Faust, purple-black, and Buffon, 
 rosy-lilac. These ' ' show ' ' tulips are the flowers 
 which years ago caused the famous tulip 
 ''mania" in Europe. At that time tulips sold 
 
POPULAR HARDY BULBS 209 
 
 as high as one thousand dollars each, and entire 
 communities became involved in the excited 
 speculation — usually to financial disaster. 
 
 There are still other varieties of tulips which 
 the amateur will find both interesting and val- 
 uable. Among these may be mentioned Greigi, 
 one of the best, orange-scarlet, yellow and 
 black center; Carinata rubra, crimson and 
 green; Clusiana, white, with broad red stripe; 
 Sylvestris, or Florentina odorata, fragrant, 
 yellow; and Persica, dwarf, brown. 
 
 OTHER SPRING-FLOWERING BULBS 
 There are other bulbs for fall planting, some 
 of which have already been mentioned, that 
 will prove hardy all over the country. Many 
 of them are especially valuable because of 
 the early bloom they afford in the first days 
 of spring. In fact, there are about a dozen 
 that can generally be relied on for March 
 flowers in the north. Their delicate grace and 
 unconqueral)le hardiness are their chief charms ; 
 Maeterlinck has said of them that they are 
 '^ frail and chilly but bright as a bold idea." 
 As a rule they have sacrificed both size and 
 fragrance in order to press forward extraor- 
 dinarily early in the season. Of all of them 
 
210 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 snowdrops are the earliest. They appear in 
 March and seem eminently capable of taking 
 good care of themselves. They require little 
 or no attention at all and possess in addition 
 the extraordinary virtue of being able to adapt 
 themselves to situations where other bulbs could 
 not be expected to prosper. The snowdrop, for 
 instance, will do exceptionally well, compared, 
 of course, to other flowers, on the north side 
 of a house, or in a narrow and poorly lighted 
 passageway where one would expect that ferns 
 alone would thrive. Galanthus Elwesii is the 
 giant of the genus and its large size of flower 
 is not attained by any sacrifice of refinement. 
 It is not so early, however, as the little snow- 
 drop, following it some two weeks. 
 
 Occasionally the spring snowflake {Leucojum 
 vernum) is mistaken for the snowdrop. It 
 possesses a white flower and blooms in March. 
 There is also an autumn snowflake, but it is 
 not reliably hardy; and there is a summer 
 flower of the same sort blooming about the 
 first part. of May. 
 
 S cilia Sihirica is another excellent flower 
 aj^pearing early in spring. Its blooms, while 
 small and borne only one to three on a stem, 
 are of a rich blue color especially desirable at 
 
POPULAR HARDY BULBS 211 
 
 Tiger Lily {Lilium tigriniDn) 
 
212 YAKD AND GAEDEN 
 
 this season of the year. Other desirable bulbs 
 are Chionodoxa grandiflora or C. gigantea, 
 with single blooms an inch and a half across and 
 of a slaty blue color ; Chionodoxa Liicilice, with 
 flowers somewhat smaller but of sky blue, ex- 
 cept the lower part of the petals which is 
 white, and Chionodoxa Sardensis, with flowers 
 still smaller but appearing six or seven on a 
 stalk, and of a darker blue. 
 
 The crocuses are other March bloomers and 
 some of them frequently will open even 
 earlier, according to the weather. Almost all 
 of the named varieties are well worth plant- 
 ing, and if the prices charged for these, usually 
 not more than seventy-five cents a hundred, 
 appear to be somewhat high, the crocus can 
 be had in separate colors — purple, yellow, 
 blue and striped — for prices a third cheaper. 
 There is no reason why everybody, even if 
 only a small strip of ground is available, 
 should not plant generously of them. Once 
 set out they are no further trouble and bloom 
 year after year. 
 
 Crocuses, as well as the other early spring 
 bulbs, should be set from one to two inches 
 below the surface of the ground. When 
 planted in the grass they are usually estab- 
 
POPULAR HARDY BULBS 213 
 
 lished by lifting' a portion of the sod and set- 
 ting the bulbs under this, then replacing the 
 turf. If, however, you prefer them for bed 
 display, provide a deep rich sandy loam. In 
 this they should be set three inches apart and 
 allowed to remain until, through natural in- 
 crease, they become so crowded as to show 
 signs of deterioration. This is not likely to 
 occur for four or five years. Avoid planting 
 crocuses too deep, two inches being the best 
 depth as a rule — when they are set deeper, they 
 often fail to bloom. 
 
 Another hardy flower of March is the winter 
 aconite {Eranthis liyenialis). Its flowers are 
 yellow and larger than the crocuses and some- 
 times, if the weather is extraordinarily open, it 
 will come into flower as early as the first of 
 February. The winter aconite belongs to the 
 buttercup family and has from five to eight 
 golden sepals. It grows about six inches high. 
 While it is a flower frequently mentioned by 
 writers on English gardens it is seldom seen 
 in America, probably because it is not as well 
 adapted to our climate as to that of its 
 European home. But where it is planted in 
 partial shade it stands a fair chance of suc- 
 ceeding. 
 
214 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 The following planting table will be a safe 
 guide for the setting of these smaller bulbs. 
 All of them should be planted in the fall as 
 soon as they can be obtained from the dealers. 
 
 
 Depth 
 
 Distance apart 
 
 
 ( Inches ) 
 
 (Inches) 
 
 Snowdrop (Galanthus) 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 Glory-of-the-Snow ( Chiono- 
 
 
 
 do'xa) 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 Squills iScillas) 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 Winter aconite {Eranthis) 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 Crocuses 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 Spring snowflake {Leucojum 
 
 
 vernuni ) 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 LILIES 
 
 No plea should be required to induce a 
 liberal planting of lilies. Their beauty and 
 fragrance recommend them especially for use 
 on small city lots where special attention may 
 be given them, and their requirements, so far 
 as soil and situation are concerned, easily 
 satisfied. It is due, possibly, to the mistaken 
 idea that they are difficult to cultivate that 
 more of them are not planted. But as a 
 matter of fact, the lily really makes no ex- 
 traordinary demand. Of all the numerous 
 varieties many will be found to flower well in 
 ordinary garden soil and if planted in a 
 sheltered spot, partially shaded and at a 
 
POPULAR HARDY BULBS 215 
 
 proper depth, they will hardly fail to prosper. 
 Fully four-fifths of the important species of 
 lilies are imported from Japan or the Far 
 East and usually reach the United States 
 about the first of November. In the northern 
 states this is a little late for planting, for 
 October is unquestionably the ideal month for 
 setting out lilies. They succeed, however, 
 when planted later and it is always better to 
 plant the bulbs in November than in the 
 spring, for the lily bulb is not safely stored and, 
 even when given the best of care, loses much 
 of its vitality and sometimes throws no bloom 
 for a season. 
 
 Among the best varieties to plant are the 
 longi-fiorum, whose funnel-shaped blooms are 
 the longest of any hardy lily; Japonicum, with 
 colors varying from a blush to a deep reddish 
 pink; Broivnii, with blossoms that are pure 
 white inside but marked with a beautiful pur- 
 plish brown on the outer part of the petal ; 
 Batmannice, bright orange; Eenryi, dark red- 
 dish yellow, and auratiim, the most gorgeous 
 of lilies. The bulbs of the last, however, must 
 be renewed every two to three years in this 
 country. Its flowers are exquisitely beautiful, 
 bearing on white petals gold, red and yellow 
 
216 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 f4 
 
 L.£i^HnHHi 
 
 Thunbergian Li]\ {Liliinii <]((/<()is, known to the trade 
 L. umhellatum, L. Thunbergiaiium, etc.) 
 
POPULAR HARDY BULBS 217 
 
 bands. The lily that eveiy one knows and one 
 which, unlike the auratum, persists for gener- 
 ations is Lilium tigrimim (tiger-lily). Though 
 its flowers are large, the bulbs are so cheap 
 and so easily grown that it is not accorded the 
 merit it deserves. It bears red flowers with 
 purplish spots. The list might be extended 
 almost indefinitely, but the following should 
 certainly receive consideration: superhum, 
 Wallacei, candidum, croceum, umhellatum, 
 speciosumy and Canadense. 
 
 An eminent authority on lilies has made the 
 following list of soils most suitable for their 
 cultivation : 
 
 First, any good garden soil of a fair depth 
 well dug before planting is suitable for such 
 kinds as Broivnii, candidum, Chcdcedonicum, 
 croceum, excelsum, Hansoni, Henryi, Mar- 
 tagon (purple), Thunhergianum, tigrinum 
 and umhellatum. 
 
 Secondly, lilies that prefer a strong soil, 
 such as a good, rich, friable loam not too heavy : 
 auratum, Batmannice, Martagon, album, sped- 
 osum and W ashing tonianum. 
 
 Thirdly, those that require peat and mois- 
 ture: Canadense, pardalinum, Philadclphicum 
 and superhum. 
 
218 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 It might be added, too, that the above list 
 represents those lilies which can be grown 
 with the least trouble. Those of the first list 
 will succeed in any ordinary border; those in 
 the second list require a certain amount of 
 partial shade and coolness at the root and are 
 best planted in shrubbery beds. And those in 
 the third group comprise the lilies that re- 
 quire a cool shady S23ot where they are not 
 exposed to the direct rays of the sun. 
 
 The general rule when planting lily bulbs is 
 that they should be put in the soil about three 
 times their depth, but this is not always a 
 safe guide, for some lilies possessing small 
 bulbs require deeper planting than this calls 
 for. Furthermore, whenever bulbs are placed 
 among shrubs they should be planted two or 
 three inches deeper than they would be set in 
 other situations. The distance between the 
 bulbs should be from twelve to eighteen 
 inches. 
 
CHAPTER XI 
 
 IRISES AND TENDER BULBS 
 
 The Iris has been called ''the poor man's 
 orchid," and a fitting name it is, for in bloom, 
 in richness of coloring, in beauty and in deli- 
 cacy it is of the ''blue-blooded" nobility of 
 the flower family, while, in point of culture, 
 in its general adaptability to various con- 
 ditions and various situations, it is as entirely 
 democratic. Cultivate it, nurse it, coddle it, and 
 it will respond eagerly and gladly to every ef- 
 fort, but neglect it, ignore it, trample on it and 
 despise it, and, once planted, it will remain with 
 you, bloom for you, and, if you have the least 
 respect for floral beauty, shame you with its 
 blossoms. It requires little and gives much, 
 and, asking no more than it has received, pre- 
 pares itself at the same time to give you more 
 another season. 
 
 VARIETIES OF IRIS 
 This, of course, refers to the common iris of 
 our gardens, a variety with which all planters 
 219 
 
•220 YARD AND OAEDEN 
 
 have been familiar for years, even for gener- 
 ations. But there are other varieties with 
 which we are not so familiar, but which are 
 no more exacting or fastidious in their de- 
 mands or their tastes. Then there are still 
 others, veritable aristocrats in all their re- 
 quirements as well as in the beauty of their 
 bloom. These — the Oncocyclus group, with 
 flowers delicately veined and reticulated, gen- 
 erally with a darker color on a light back- 
 ground, natives of Persia, Armenia and 
 Afghanistan — require special culture and at- 
 tention, and are as difficult to grow as the 
 others are easy. For the amateur they can 
 not be recommended, though, now and then, 
 one finds a gardener who is interested enough 
 in the irises to attempt the cultivation of this 
 difficult class. A representative of it is the 
 mourning iris, or Iris Susiana, frequently of- 
 fered in the American catalogues, and usually 
 with the misleading announcement that it is 
 easily grown. 
 
 It is not easily grown; indeed, the amateur 
 seldom succeeds with it. Yet it is the easiest 
 of the Oncocyclus group to grow. It, like 
 other varieties of the same class, requires 
 hard sun-baking after its short blooming sea- 
 
IRISES AND TENDER BULBS 221 
 
 Japanese Iris 
 {Iris kevigata, known to the trade as /. Kwmpferi) 
 
222 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 son, and it can not be considered hardy. 
 However, when brought into bloom, its large 
 gray flowers closely veined with black, odd 
 as well as beautiful, amply reward the culti- 
 vator for his trouble. Usually it is best to 
 lift the plant in the fall and store it through 
 the winter, as dahlias or cannas are stored. 
 Still, in some few instances, it can be brought to 
 bloom without this annual disturbance by 
 plentifully covering it in winter, and in spring 
 removing the litter gradually as the season ad- 
 vances. Success with it is ample reward, and, 
 as it can be had for fifteen cents, failure would 
 not be altogether a financial disaster. 
 
 But when the iris offers so many varieties, 
 all of the easiest cultivation, why regret that 
 the Oncocyclus group brings confusion to our 
 efforts? Consider a moment the possibilities 
 the iris presents. Usually, when we mention 
 the name, we picture in our minds only the 
 "German" iris; it is so common in our gar- 
 dens, and it was so common in the gardens of 
 our grandfathers and of their fathers, that we 
 have lost sight of its value and its beauty, and, 
 at the same time, have come to consider it as 
 alone representative of the family. Nothing 
 could be more absurd. One might, if one 
 
IRISES AND TENDER BULBS 223 
 
 chose, plant a garden, large or small, with 
 irises and nothing else, and have for his pains 
 a wonderful procession of wonderful flowers 
 from early spring to late summer, and then, 
 if he cared to fill in the winter months, con- 
 tinue the succession indoors in window garden 
 or conservatory. In fact, it is possible, with 
 but the slightest effort and with but ordinary 
 conditions — such as a sunny window — to have 
 iris blooms every month in the year. 
 
 The Iris, or, as it is popularly known, the 
 fleur-de-lis or rainbow flower, has more than 
 one hundred and seventy species, of which as 
 many as one hundred have been cultivated by 
 American floriculturists. In England, where 
 the flower is more appreciated, more than one 
 hundred and fifty species are grown by iris 
 fanciers. Of the number grown in America, 
 seventy-five might safely be attempted by the 
 skilled amateur, and this number itself is but 
 a small fraction of the number of varieties 
 which have been produced by cross-fertiliza- 
 tion and selection to contribute generously to 
 garden ornamentation. 
 
 When consideration is had of the possibili- 
 ties these figures suggest, surely we will no 
 longer look upon the '' German'' varieties as the 
 
224 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 limit of iris variations. In fact, the ques- 
 tion, so far as planting is concerned, becomes 
 one of selection — of selection for ornamental 
 and color effect, for best varieties and those 
 easiest grown, and for season of bloom, that 
 a succession may be maintained. In this con- 
 nection it is well to know that the irises which 
 are grown and offered for sale by nurserymen 
 are divided into two divisions: those of bul- 
 bous character and those with surface rhi- 
 zomes — of which the common ''German" is a 
 type — and those with exceedingly narrow, in- 
 conspicuous, subterraneous rhizomes, with 
 roots more conspicuous. 
 
 In the bulbous division the irises best known 
 are those popularly called Spanish and Eng- 
 lish. The former (Iris Xiphium) and the latter 
 (Iris xipMoides) deserve to be more widely 
 planted than they are. They are of easy cul- 
 ture, thriving best in some sheltered corner of 
 the garden, and preferring a loose, friable soil. 
 Their flowers are excellent to cut for vase or 
 table decoration, and in form, size and color are 
 more dainty than the common variety. The 
 Spanish group blooms first — the latter part of 
 June — and its flowers are followed by those 
 of the English iris. For best effects the bulbs 
 
IRISES AND TENDER BULBS 225 
 
 Spanish Iris 
 {Iriff Xijihium) 
 
226 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 of both should be planted liberally. At least 
 twenty-five should be set in a group; more 
 would be better. The bulbs are inexpensive, 
 costing from seventy-five cents to one dollar a 
 hundred, the English being the more expensive 
 of the two, and should be planted in the au- 
 tumn three or four inches deep and five or six 
 inches apart. They are entirely hardy, but 
 should be planted early in order to enable them 
 to make some growth in the fall before hard 
 frost comes; and they will be all the better for 
 a slight winter covering. 
 
 There are a few other species of the tall- 
 growing bulbous irises — though none grows 
 higher than eighteen inches — which could be 
 planted to advantage. One, for instance, is 
 Iris juncea and another is the rare /. Boissieri, 
 but these are seldom to be had from American 
 nurserymen, except on special order. Still, 
 even when imported, their cost is compara- 
 tively small. The first, however, is not hardy 
 in the north, and the other requires heavy win- 
 ter protection. A third variety which can be 
 obtained in this country is Iris reticulata; it 
 is a native of Palestine, and is one of the 
 prettiest and sweetest of spring flowers, com- 
 ing into bloom with the crocus. It is absolutely 
 
IRISES AND TENDER BULBS 227 
 
 hardy, and will thrive in almost any situation, 
 throwing flowers gorgeous in coloring, with 
 brilliant shades of purple and gold and a vio- 
 let fragrance. Iris Bakeriana, an Armenian 
 variety, is even earlier, but less showy. Their 
 cultivation is identical with that of the Span- 
 ish and English varieties. 
 
 Of the rhizomatous division, the most diffi- 
 cult to grow is the Oncocyclus class, to which 
 reference has already been made. But, again, 
 why lament the fact that these plants, even 
 granting that they are splendid, resist our best 
 efforts? Have we not the Japanese as well as 
 the German irises! And, have you ever seen 
 a hundred plants of the Japanese in bloom? 
 It is a sight worth traveling far to see. In 
 Japan they are grown by the million, and dur- 
 ing their season of bloom the little empire is 
 a paradise of color — marvelous and exquisite 
 color. The Japanese have been cultivating the 
 iris for generations, and they have brought to 
 bear upon its flowers all the wonderful skill for 
 which they are noted. Travelers have re- 
 marked the iris gardens ever since the tourists 
 began to journey to Japan, but, strange to say, 
 these irises, known as /. Icevigata, or I. Kcemp- 
 feri, as they are called by the trade, as easily 
 
228 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 grown as a potato, perfectly hardy, demanding 
 but little attention, were until recent years 
 but little known in America. Yet importations 
 were made among the first products brought 
 from the land of the Mikado. We have been 
 dilatory in planting them, but now, however, 
 they are planted by the thousand every season 
 in America, and each season the demand in- 
 creases. 
 
 We are always advised that they are ^^excel- 
 lent for naturalizing in the water garden,'' and 
 that here they thrive best and their flowers 
 attain greatest size. This is true, but not ex- 
 clusively true. We do not need a water gar- 
 den to have Japanese irises; we do not need 
 even a '^swampy" situation. Hundreds of 
 them have been grown without either. Some 
 employ a sunken bed. To prepare this, dig a 
 trench two feet wide for a single row, or wider, 
 according to the width of the ])ed projected. 
 Remove all the dirt to a depth of two feet. 
 The soil in the bottom of the trench is then 
 loosened to a further depth of twelve inches, 
 well-rotted manure is liberally spaded in, and 
 the earth first removed from the trench, mixed 
 with manure, is returned until the surface of 
 the bed thus prepared stands some three or 
 
IRISES AND TENDER BULBS 229 
 
 four inches l)e]ow the surrounding surface of 
 the garden or kiwn. Usually it is ])est to l)oard 
 in this sort of a bed, to prevent the edges from 
 being broken or marred. Then the plants are 
 set out, two feet apart, and in winter a cover- 
 ing of leaves, straw or other litter, to which 
 is added a generous amount of old manure, 
 is applied. In the spring this is removed, 
 and when the leaf growth has attained a 
 height of ten or twelve inches, water liberally, 
 letting the stream from a hose flow over the 
 sunken bed when possible. 
 
 This method of planting and cultivation has 
 never failed to give the maximum of l)loom and 
 a bloom of maximum size. The flowers some- 
 times, measure twelve inches in diameter. The 
 colors range from silvery white through pale 
 blue, lilac, plum and purple, and the flowers 
 are marked with exquisite veinings and star- 
 like centers of contrasting shades, frequently 
 of gold. They bloom luxuriantly in late June 
 and early July. 
 
 But what of the ' ' German irises ' ' ? They are 
 truly the democrats of our gardens, yet, as al- 
 ready said, they are of the nobility of the 
 flower kingdom. Their flowers are not so fine, 
 perhaps, as those of their Japanese cousins. 
 
230 
 
 YARD AND GAEDEN 
 
 but they are different in form rather than dif- 
 ferent in value. They have shorter, broader 
 leaves than the Iris IcEvigata, and flowers 
 whose petals do not lie flat. They have three 
 strongly recurved and handsomely marked 
 petals or "falls" and three upright standards. 
 
 White Siberian Iris 
 {Iris Sibirica, var. alba) 
 
 (jierinan Iris 
 {Iris Germanica) 
 
 Their colourings include white, yellow, lilac and 
 purple, and some curious browns, rich maroons 
 and dark yellows. No plants are of easier cul- 
 ture; unlike the Japanese they prefer a dry 
 soil, but are gross feeders, spreading rapidly, 
 and thriving best in a sunny situation. How- 
 ever, they insist upon none of these conditions, 
 
IRISES AND TENDER BULBS 231 
 
 and are seen growing where all are lacking. 
 But feed them once a year, and, just as spring- 
 flowering bulbs are passing with their pageant 
 of bloom, these German irises will reward the 
 planter with a lavish display of beautiful flow- 
 ers. 
 
 And still the list is not ended. There are 
 other varieties, all hardy, all easy of cultiva- 
 tion, making no more demands as far as treat- 
 ment is concerned than their accommodating 
 German relatives, blooming at different sea- 
 sons, and ranging in height from a few inches 
 to three feet. Indeed, this range of height of- 
 fered by the iris family is almost as important 
 to the iris fancier as the range of color and the 
 varying seasons of bloom, for, through the ad- 
 vantages this affords, effective groupings can 
 be arranged, the dwarf sorts in front and the 
 taller-growing varieties in the rear. 
 
 There are a number of the dwarf varieties 
 from which the amateur may select to suit 
 himself. These have been, for some unknown 
 reason, much neglected, but fortunately, in 
 recent years their value has been more ap- 
 preciated, and the great merit they possess has 
 brought them into prominence. There is, for 
 instance, the little Iris pumila, which is, per- 
 
232 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 haps, better known than the other species, and 
 which grows nine inches high and bears in 
 April showy flowers of deep purple. It is, 
 moreover, a profuse bloomer, and as an edging 
 plant possesses extraordinary value. Its green 
 leaves appear in March, and it is always in 
 trim, neat form, even throughout the hot days 
 of midsummer. It can be had in various 
 colors, ranging from pearly white through 
 clear blues to the deeper-colored typical tint. 
 Iris verna is another dwarf species, quite pro- 
 lific in bloom, producing its purple flowers also 
 in April. Another gem among dwarf irises is 
 Iris cristata. It grows only six inches high, 
 has foliage of a light green color, forming a 
 carpet of verdure, and bears freely pale lilac 
 flowers beautifully blotched with golden yel- 
 low. Iris Chamceiris is a variety sometimes mis- 
 taken for /. pumila, but its yellow flowers, with 
 falls veined with purple, disclose its identity. 
 It also is of value, and of value, too, is the 
 dwarf form, 7m flavissima, or 7. Bloudovii, as 
 it is sometimes catalogued, which bears showy 
 flowers of a pure yellow color. 
 
 Taller-growing species which are of easy cul- 
 ture and which are effective in the garden 
 wherever planted are also numerous. Promi- 
 
IBISES AND TENDEli BULBS 233 
 
 nent among those which are to be recom- 
 mended for the average amateur is Iris 
 Florentma, the orris-root of commerce, de- 
 servedly popular, and for over one hundred 
 years a familiar flower in the old-fashioned 
 New England gardens. It is free-blooming, 
 producing flowers of pearly whiteness, deli- 
 ciously fragrant, delicate and effective. Iris 
 pallida, whose blood flows through the veins of 
 all the better hybrid German irises, is a plant 
 with broad leaves and sword-like foliage which 
 often attains a height of two and a half feet, the 
 blades measuring an inch and a half across. 
 It bears its flowers on long stems, raising them 
 high above the foliage, and the result is most 
 effective. Then there is Iris Pseudacorus, 
 Jacob's sword, as it is sometimes called, which 
 possesses ample green foliage and forms quickly 
 a vigorous clump. It bears flowers of a rich 
 golden yellow color, and produces them in pro- 
 fusion. 
 
 The much-admired Siberian iris (Z. Sihirica), 
 has a number of forms of which the most com- 
 mon type is a tall-growing variety, attaining a 
 height of two and a half or three feet, and bear- 
 ing many flower stems, which are topped with 
 blooms of a dark blue color marked with white 
 
234 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 pencilings. The best sorts are the pure white, 
 growing about two feet high, and the variety 
 orientalis, twenty inches high, the latter bear- 
 ing in profusion rich blue flowers of charming 
 form. It has the valuable quality of reproduc- 
 ing itself rapidly, and from a few plants 
 
 Siberian Iris 
 {Iris Sibirica) 
 
 English Iris 
 {Iris xiphioides) 
 
 enough can be obtained in two or three seasons 
 to plant a considerable area. 
 
 All of the irises with surface rhizomes thrive 
 in ordinary garden soils, requiring division 
 and replanting as their clumps increase in size. 
 This should be done as soon as the foliage 
 shows signs of ripening, and should be accom- 
 
IRISES AND TENDER BULBS 235 
 
 plished 6arly enough in the autumn to permit 
 the newly planted roots to become thoroughly 
 established before winter sets in. The rhi- 
 zomes should never be planted deeper than an 
 inch below the surface, unless the situation is 
 unusually dry. As the clumps increase in size, 
 divide them by cutting the rhizomes sharply 
 with a spade or similar implement, transplant- 
 ing the portion detached and allowing the par- 
 ent plant to remain in its position undisturbed. 
 
 TENDER BULBS 
 
 There is another class of bulbous, tuberous- 
 rooted plants which is worth considering and 
 which, like those requiring planting in the fall, 
 are easily grown. These are the bulbs which 
 bloom in summer and autumn and are planted 
 in spring. They are known as tender bulbs 
 because they will not endure the winters, but, 
 after blooming and ripening, are dug up and 
 stored away to be replanted the following 
 spring. Among the most important species of 
 this class of bulbs are the agapanthus, al- 
 stroemeria, tuberous begonia, bessera, canna, 
 caladium, cooperia, crinum, dahlia, gladiolus, 
 madeira vine, montbretia, oxalis, calla, tigri- 
 dia, tuberose, and zephyranthes. 
 
236 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 No flower is easier of culture or less doubt- 
 ful so far as success is concerned than the dah- 
 lia. We have the single and pompon, the 
 show, the quilled and fancy, the decorative and 
 the cactus varieties. The hundreds of shades 
 and colors and the beautiful forms as well as 
 the grace of the plant and its value for cutting 
 give this flower an exalted position which it 
 well deserves. The roots should not be planted 
 in the northern states before the middle of 
 May and, when the growth appears above the 
 surface six inches or so, it is generally well to 
 pinch the tops, a process which produces a 
 bushy, compact, dwarf growth. 
 
 Following the dahlia in popularity and 
 praise are the gladioli. They may be planted 
 either in separate beds or among perennials 
 where they will add gay colors to borders 
 which might otherwise be bare. Gladioli 
 should be planted as early in the season as the 
 ground can be worked and every two weeks 
 thereafter until July first for a succession of 
 bloom. They prefer a sunny situation, a rich 
 soil and plenty of moisture and should be 
 planted six inches deep, seven or eight inches 
 apart. 
 
 The tuberous-rooted begonia' is valuable be- 
 
IRISES AND TENDER BULBS 237 
 
 cause it will flower in shady situations. In a 
 spot where other flowers have persistently re- 
 fused to grow, the tuberous-rooted begonia 
 will frequently be found at its best. They are 
 best started in the house during March and 
 April in pots and then planted out of doors 
 the latter part of May. If started early enough 
 indoors, they will be in bloom by the middle of 
 June and will continue to flower until frost. 
 They thrive best in a rich, loose, moisture-re- 
 taining soil and prefer a considerable quantity 
 of leaf-mold to which has been added a lib- 
 eral amount of sharp sand. The bulbs should 
 be planted three inches deep and ten or twelve 
 inches apart. 
 
 Montbretias are desirable when planted in 
 groups of fifty or a hundred bulbs. The bulbs 
 are planted in the spring about four inches 
 deep and will prove hardy when afforded a 
 winter protection of litter four or ^ve inches 
 deep. 
 
 The summer hyacinth, (Hyacinthus can- 
 dicans), bears large, white, bell-shaped flowers 
 on stout stalks two or three feet high. For 
 best effects this must be planted in clumps and, 
 like the Montbretia, proves hardy when given 
 protection during the winter. Tuberoses and 
 
238 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 caladiums are well-known popular bulbs which 
 'are extensively planted. 
 
 BULBOUS VINES 
 
 Among the summer-flowering bulbous- and 
 tuberous-rooted plants are several vines which 
 prove exceedingly valuable. Most city yards 
 possess some objectionable spot or object 
 which it is desirable to conceal from sight ; this 
 may be accomplished by the use of annual or 
 perennial vines. But annuals, while they are 
 quick growing, are objectionable owing to the 
 fact that they must be replanted each year; 
 perennials, on the other hand, frequently re- 
 quire from two to three seasons to establish 
 themselves. Between these two come the bul- 
 bous vines. They are quick growing and, when 
 once planted, require no further attention, 
 thus combining the advantages of both annual 
 and perennial. Moreover, they are inexpen- 
 sive. Foremost among these is the Madeira 
 vine which attains a considerable height in a 
 very short space of time. The foliage is dense 
 and the flower small and white. The Cinnamon 
 vine, with glossy, green, heart-shaped leaves 
 and very fragrant racemes of white flowers, 
 grows to a greater height and blooms in Au- 
 
IRISES AND TENDER BULBS 239 
 
 gust. Another fine climbing plant is the Kudzu 
 vine, which possesses magnificent foliage, deep 
 and dense, and makes a wonderfully rapid 
 growth the first season. It comes from Japan 
 and is very extensively planted. A native vine 
 is Apios tuherosa which seems to be more ap- 
 preciated in England than at home; its spe- 
 cial features are its adaptability to situations 
 in. absolute shade and its beautiful flowers of 
 pleasing fragrance. It grows rapidly and 
 blooms in July. 
 
CHAPTEE XII 
 
 SHKUBS 
 
 In planting as it is usually done on the city 
 or town lot of average size, in most cases a 
 shrub would l)e preferable to the tree which is 
 ordinarily set out. Too often trees are crowded 
 into situations far too small for them, which is 
 neither good for the tree nor of value to the 
 site. Due allowance is seldom made for the 
 tree's growth and spread and, planted in close 
 proximity to some building on one side and 
 subject to exposure on another, a straggling, 
 unbalanced specimen is produced that lacks 
 beauty, strength and vigor. This does not 
 mean, of course, that trees have no place in 
 the small yard; when properly selected and 
 properly located, they add immeasurably to the 
 appearance of the home. But, before a tree is 
 set out, careful thought should be given to its 
 fitness for the place where it is proposed to 
 establish it. 
 
 240 
 
SHRUBS 
 
 241 
 
242 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 DISADVANTAGES OF TREE-PLANTING 
 
 The tree should be considered as a mature 
 plant. It must not be forgotten, that, as the 
 years go by, the tree will continue to grow. It 
 will not long remain the small specimen re- 
 ceived from the nursery which, when first 
 planted, may appear to be entirely suitable for 
 the location selected. Each year will add to its 
 height and increase the spread of its branches, 
 so that, in ten years, perhaps, it may have at- 
 tained a size that unfits it for the effect de- 
 sired. Even then it may be only in its infancy, 
 requiring, for its fullest development, twenty- 
 five or fifty years more. 
 
 This fact suggests the permanency of the 
 tree and is converted at once by the incautious 
 planter into a recommendation which more 
 than offsets any objection which may be found 
 against its use. However, a second thought 
 may lead to the conclusion that this is not the 
 advantage it may at first sight appear to be. 
 If one is planting for future effect, if one is 
 planting the home grounds for the enjoyment 
 of one's children and one's children's children, 
 well and good, the tree's the thing. Its leafy 
 branches will cast grateful shade for them and 
 
SHRUBS 243 
 
 the massive trunks will stand as monuments 
 to the forethought of the ancestor who felt so 
 tender an interest in the comfort of his de- 
 scendants. But if one is planting for oneself, 
 for to-day, for this generation, for immediate 
 effect, the tree is not the thing. The shrub 
 must displace it. 
 
 We have come to a fuller realization of this 
 in the last few years than ever before. And, 
 as we have gained in this direction, we have 
 come to understand and to appreciate the value 
 and the uses of trees. We no longer plant 
 them in such proximity to our residences that 
 both tree and house suffer as a consequence, 
 and we no longer fancy that a tree is as essen- 
 tial to a lot as a roof to the house. Planting 
 experts are now practically unanimous in de- 
 claring that a tree which attains average 
 height and spread should not be planted within 
 twenty feet of the house. The reason for this 
 dictum is not difficult to discover. Trees set 
 at closer distance can not attain the full de- 
 velopment they require as they grow older and, 
 so far as the residence is concerned, if planted 
 nearer than the twenty feet limit, too much 
 shade is likely to result, with dampness and ill 
 health as the immediate consequence. 
 
244 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 Moreover, where trees overspread the lawn, 
 grass of that ^'velvety" texture so desirable 
 is almost impossible. Then, too, not only is a 
 free circulation of air shut off from the resi- 
 dence and the sunlight excluded, but the 
 planter who has thus elected to proceed will 
 find that he has made flower-growing exceed- 
 
 Hydrangea Laden with Flowers 
 
 ingly difficult. In a word, the owner of the 
 small city lot sacrifices too much in planting 
 trees for what he gains. If his yard is large 
 enough, trees have a place in the planting 
 scheme. But if the yard is small, confine tree- 
 planting to the park bordering the street or 
 
SHRUBS 245 
 
 highway and make use of shrubs for lawn 
 planting. 
 
 EFFECTIVENESS OF SHRUBS 
 Too often the advantages of shrubs are over- 
 looked or ignored. Tall-growing and dwarf, 
 deciduous and evergreen, there are few places 
 where they will not succeed and, thriving, add 
 materially to the beauty of the home. They have 
 in the first place two distinct values : they are 
 serviceable when employed as individual speci- 
 mens, planted in isolated situations for formal 
 effect, and valuable when grown in masses 
 forming what are commonly termed shrubber- 
 ies. Both methods of planting have their par- 
 ticular uses and advantages but, although the 
 inclination as a rule is in the direction of indi- 
 vidual or specimen planting rather than mass 
 planting, the latter and not the former is to 
 be recommended. The amateur, however, is 
 far more likely to adopt the course proscribed 
 than that which is advised, for it appears to 
 him that shrubs scattered about the lawn add 
 more to the yard's general appearance than 
 when they are grouped. But, as a matter of 
 fact, mass planting and not specimen planting 
 
246 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 contributes more toward harmonious and sat- 
 isfactory effect. 
 
 Frequently a yard presents a ''patchy" ap- 
 pearance for which the planter is unable to 
 account. In such instances, were it possible 
 to shift specimen shrubs temporarily from 
 their isolated positions to shrubbery groups 
 and observe the increased effectiveness result- 
 ing from the change, the perplexed gardener 
 would at once detect the cause of the trouble 
 and, it is safe to conclude, would make the tem- 
 porary arrangement permanent. Shrubs, or 
 plants of any sort, for that matter, scattered 
 indiscriminately and without apparent purpose 
 over a lawn destroy all suggestion of unity and 
 conspire to obscure the motive of the planter; 
 his cultivated area, consequently, whether it be 
 large or small, loses all meaning to the ob- 
 server and lacks at the same time that indi- 
 viduality which is one of the most desirable 
 features in a properly planned and planted 
 yard. On the other hand the mass planting of 
 shrubs adds harmony to a place, contributes 
 to its unity, assists in defining the motive and, 
 in most instances, supplies a touch of strength 
 which is as essential to a well and tastefully 
 beautified yard as a suggestion of delicacy. 
 
SHRUBS 
 
 247 
 
 
248 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 Some beginners probably will find it difficult 
 to distinguish between shrubs and small trees. 
 But this need not discourage them; expe- 
 rienced planters are similarly perplexed. What 
 one calls a small tree another may call a shrub, 
 the distinction being often difficult. Shrubs, 
 as a rule, have a number of stems springing 
 from the ground whereas a tree possesses but 
 a single trunk. Still this is not true in all 
 cases. 
 
 The wide variety in habit of growth, foliage, 
 fruit and flower makes the worth of shrubs. 
 They can be had for every situation, of vary- 
 ing height, and of varying seasons of bloom. 
 As the leaves differ, so the flowers differ, or 
 the berries in cases where the shrub's chief 
 value is determined by its fruit rather than by 
 its bloom, but if in any of these respects the 
 variation is wide it is no wider than the varia- 
 tion in the uses to which shrubs may be profit- 
 ably put. They serve to conceal foundation 
 walls ; they form backgrounds for plants ; they 
 act as harmonizing agents between lawn and 
 tall-growing trees; they can be used as a cov- 
 ering for ground which on account of its slope, 
 exposure or other adverse conditions will not 
 support grass, and they are valuable as mate- 
 
SHRUBS 
 
 249 
 
 Shrubbery Walk in Small City Yard 
 
250 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 rial for breaking dead levels and hiding and 
 obscuring unpleasant views. 
 
 They may be used also to supply motive for 
 a sudden or abrupt turn or termination of a 
 walk. Very frequently a walk is given a slight 
 or even pronounced turn without apparent 
 cause; instead of being what it should be, the 
 most direct means of getting from one point 
 to another, the walk twists until it follows a 
 rambling course which is utterly purposeless 
 and inexcusable. But, where the turn is pro- 
 jected, plant a clump of shrubs and there is at 
 once established a sensible and logical reason 
 for the turn. The walk then seems to curve in 
 order to avoid the shrubs planted in its more 
 direct course. 
 
 Another considerable advantage shrubs pos- 
 sess is that, once established, they require com- 
 paratively little attention. This does not mean, 
 of course, that they should be heedlessly 
 planted or grossly neglected. Though very 
 frequently they will grow when conditions are 
 both unpleasant and unfit for them, still if the 
 best results are to be obtained some consid- 
 eration must be had for the demands of the 
 plants. They will reward the gardener royally 
 for the care he bestows on them. 
 
SHRUBS 251 
 
 PLANTING AND ARRANGING SHRUBS 
 
 In preparing beds for shrubbery, spade the 
 ground to a depth of at least two feet, work 
 into the soil well-rotted manure, make it fine 
 and soft, and see to it that it will not suffer 
 from want of proper drainage. In planting 
 first examine the roots and, where these have 
 been broken or twisted in transit, cut off the 
 broken or injured portions with a sharp knife, 
 then, having prepared a hole amplv large for 
 the reception of the bush, set it in at a slightly 
 lower level than that at which it stood before 
 it was lifted. This depth can readily be ascer- 
 tained by observing the marks left by the soil 
 on the stem or stems. Allow sufficient room for 
 the development of the shrubs, bearing in mind 
 the fact that they increase their spread as they 
 grow older, avoid crowding, and avoid also set- 
 ting them too far apart. Group them by plant- 
 ing the taller-growing varieties in the rear and 
 the dwarfs in the front, but do not aim at too 
 uniform an effect. Occasionally it may l^e de- 
 sirable to estal)lisli a round bed, although there 
 can be but little need for such an arrangement, 
 but if this method of planting is considered de- 
 sirable, place the taller-growing varieties in 
 
252 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 the center and group the dwarf sorts around 
 them. This arrangement is suggested not only 
 because it presents a better appearance but 
 because if it were not followed it is obvious 
 that the low-growing shrubs would be entirely 
 hidden by the taller varieties and at the same 
 time so densely shaded by the foliage that they 
 would soon perish. 
 
 In any event avoid monotony. Shrubs in 
 this respect are easily abused and often, through 
 lack of judgment in planting, monotony occurs 
 where the purpose was the contrary. But in 
 avoiding any suggestion of regularity the 
 planter must also avoid any appearance of 
 studied irregularity. Do not plant in straight 
 lines and do not plant in mechanical zigzags. 
 Group the shrubs. 
 
 CULTIVATION 
 
 Though hardy shrubs require little protec- 
 tion in winter, still it is always best to leave 
 on the ground the leaves they drop at the first 
 touch of frost and to add to these additional 
 small quantities as the winter advances. Very 
 little trimming or pruning should be practised. 
 Keep the dead wood well cut out but be ex- 
 ceedingly cautious in applying the pruning 
 
SHRUBS 253 
 
 shears in any other manner. Occasionally, 
 where a shrub assumes a tall, spindling growth, 
 it may be advantageous to cut it back to in- 
 duce a broader and more spreading growth. 
 Wherever this is necessary cut back boldly or 
 the purpose of the pruning will not be accom- 
 plished. But, for the most part, let the shrub 
 have its own way, especially when it is healthy 
 and vigorous, and apply the shears only when 
 it is absolutely necessary. Shrubs sheared 
 into unnatural forms seldom possess any value 
 as ornaments unless the effect aimed at is alto- 
 gether formal. 
 
 VARIETIES 
 
 On the smaller grounds in town or city the 
 greatest value of shrubs is in the grouping of 
 many flowering varieties in one mass so that a 
 succession of bloom is insured from April to 
 November. If only seven shrubs were planted 
 it would be possible to maintain such a suc- 
 cession, the bloom first appearing immediately 
 after the last frost in spring and continuing 
 until autumn frosts blight the bushes. This 
 list would include: 
 
 Forsythia April 
 
 Syringa ( lilac ) , May 
 
 Spiraea June 
 
 Deutzia July 
 
1254 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 lUius (smoke-bush ) August 
 
 Hydrangea September 
 
 Hamamclis (witch-hazel) October 
 
 All these shrubs are perfectly hardy and will 
 respond graciously to ordinary treatment in 
 any good garden soil. Moreover, good plants 
 of large size may be obtained at small expendi- 
 ture, the whole collection costing from one to 
 two dollars, according to their age. 
 
 It would hardly be possible to prepare a list 
 of the essential qualities which should be de- 
 manded of shrubs for the home embellishment 
 — the preparation of such a list would require 
 consideration of the individual places to be 
 planted. Still, whether grounds are large or 
 small, whether many plants are required or 
 few, and whether shrubs are desired for bloom 
 or foliage value, to obtain the best effects from 
 their use, plant them as a general rule in 
 masses. Use them liberally, for they possess 
 more actual value than perennials in that they 
 are more permanent and, compared with an- 
 nuals, they demand but little attention. In a 
 word, 3"0u may plant annuals for a season, per- 
 ennials for a few years, trees for posterity, 
 but shrubs you plant for yourself for imme- 
 diate effect and for practically the whole of 
 your own lifetime. 
 
SHRUBS 
 
 255 
 
 It must also be borne in mind that there are 
 evergreen as well as deciduous shrubs and 
 that a judicious selection of the former will 
 give a touch of life to the yard or grounds in 
 winter which could not be obtained otherwise 
 except through the use of evergreen trees. 
 As long as we have these — both trees and 
 
 Flowers of the Mountain Laurel [Kahnia latifolia) 
 
 shrubs — there is small excuse for any place 
 either in the city or the country assuming a 
 dead and desolate appearance in winter. Any 
 one who has observed a group of rhododen- 
 drons in winter with their great glossy leaves 
 can not fail to be impressed by the life they 
 lend to the landscape. Rhododendrons, how- 
 
256 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 ever, are not the only shrubs that lend them- 
 selves to this particular use, for here again a 
 variety is presented which affords the planter 
 a wide field from which to select. There is, 
 for instance, the Mountain Laurel {Kalmia 
 latifolia), which is without doubt one of the 
 choicest of American broad-leaved evergreens. 
 The leaves are particularly conspicuous in 
 winter and as the Kalmia is perfectly hardy 
 as far north as Maine and is neither difficult to 
 establish nor difficult to maintain, it forms one 
 of the most valuable shrubs in the list. In the 
 spring its sheets of bright rosy-pink flowers, 
 delicately adorned with carmine dots, add to its 
 value for decorative purposes. 
 
 Then again, among the most useful of our 
 early spring-flowering shrubs are the hardy 
 azaleas, many varieties of which have persist- 
 ent evergreen foliage. A low-growing shrub 
 with evergreen foliage and of compact habit, 
 bearing white flowers in great abundance in 
 spring is the Andromeda florihunda or Pieris 
 florihunda. Mahonia Aquifolium, or Berheris 
 Aquifolium, as it is more properly known, is 
 another dwarf species with purplish shining 
 prickly leaves retained throughout the winter, 
 and with showy bright yellow flowers in dense 
 
SHEUBS 257 
 
 clusters in May succeeded by bluish^black ber- 
 ries. Its handsome deep green glossy foliage, 
 which assumes a bronze or coffee hue in winter, 
 and its neat habit render it especially valuable 
 for decorative planting. Another evergreen 
 shrub of value is Euonymus Japonicus, or 
 Japanese euonymus. 
 
 SHRUBS SUITED TO THE CITY YARD 
 
 In the selection of evergreen varieties for 
 planting in cities, we are to some extent lim- 
 ited by soil conditions and by the injury in- 
 flicted by the smoke-filled atmosphere. Only 
 such evergreens as will most sturdily withstand 
 these blasts of coal smoke and which, at the 
 same time, will not make too many demands 
 for special soils should be planted. In the list 
 of deciduous shrubs, however, we find less 
 delicacy displayed ; they submit more happily to 
 adverse conditions which the evergreens could 
 scarcely withstand, and apparently thrive de- 
 spite them. While the deciduous varieties that 
 bloom in late summer are few, there is ap- 
 parently no end to the varieties that flower in 
 spring or early summer. In the list of these 
 not only is almost every color of flower to be 
 had and every height from one to twelve feet 
 
258 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 as well as numerous varieties of foliage, but 
 there will be found shrubs for almost every 
 conceivable situation and purpose. Indeed, 
 with so many varieties at hand the amateur 
 will experience no difficulty in obtaining what 
 he may require but, on the contrary, will doubt- 
 less be embarrassed by the quantities from 
 
 Hardy Azalea in Bloom 
 
 which to select. Aslie reads descriptions it will 
 seem to him that first this shrub and then that 
 is absolutely indispensable, but he will do best 
 if he limits the varieties he selects to those 
 which are most commonly employed. Ex- 
 perience has proved the value of these and they 
 are, generally speaking, quite as effective and 
 
SHRUBS 259 
 
 quite as adaptable to his purpose as any of the 
 rarer slirubs wliicli nurserymen may offer in 
 tlieir catalogues. 
 
 A showy shrub is the lilac {Syringa) with 
 pink, white or lilac blossoms. It is best, how- 
 ever, not to mix the three colors but to mass 
 each variety separately, thereby obtaining a 
 stronger and at the same time a more restful 
 effect. In planting lilacs obtain good shrubs. 
 Do not plant a bush because it is to be had for 
 nothing; it seldom proves worth the trouble. 
 Avoid also the double-flowered varieties, for 
 their flowers are heavier and less graceful and 
 give no suggestion of the freedom and uncon- 
 ventionality of the single variety. The Mock 
 Orange, or syringa as it is sometimes called, 
 {Philadelplius) , is a hardy, free-flowering 
 shrub with showy flowers appearing in late 
 spring. If the most fragrant variety is desired, 
 obtain PMladelplius corona riiis. The Snow 
 Ball (Vihurniim) should not be forgotten. 
 Avoid the old-fashioned kind which is invaria- 
 bly a prey to aphids or plant-lice whose ravages 
 cause the leaves to curl and the flowers to lose 
 their beauty, and select instead Japanese Snow 
 Ball which, though it has smaller flowers, j^os- 
 sesses better foliage and habit. This is known 
 
260 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 to nurserymen as Viburmim plica him, although 
 its proper designation would be Viburnum 
 tomentosum, var. plicatum. It attains a height 
 of eight feet— some four feet less than the 
 common snow ball — and has especially attrac- 
 tive foliage while its globose flower clusters are 
 three to four inches across. 
 
 Rhododendron in Bloom 
 
 The Spiraea forms another group of shrubs 
 excellent for a small city yard. The most pop- 
 ular species probably are S. Van Houttei, S. 
 Thnnhergii and S. primifolia. The blossoms of 
 these are white and are borne in May and 
 June. The common Bridal Wreath is S. Van 
 Houttei. The Thunberg Spiraea (snow gar- 
 
SHEUBS 261 
 
 land) comes into bloom earlier and of this va- 
 riety there is a hybrid known as Spircca arguta 
 which is considered by many to be the showiest 
 of all the earlier blooming spiraeas. 
 
 SEASON FOR PLANTING 
 
 In the matter of determining the season for 
 planting", whether it shall be spring or fall, no 
 fixed rule can be given. In any event plant early 
 enough, if the spring be selected, to insure the 
 plant's establishing itself before the hot suns 
 of summer scorch it, and if the fall season be 
 chosen, set the plants early enough in autumn 
 to insure their becoming established before 
 hard freezing begins. Evergreens should be 
 planted very early in spring or in August. 
 After the shrubs are once established most of 
 them, save for an occasional i3runing, will take 
 care of themselves, but it is always well to have 
 on hand a little ammoniacal carbonate of cop- 
 per ready to be diluted and to be applied to the 
 shrubs in the form of a spray for all fungus 
 attacks, and a little hellebore and similar 
 poison to preserve them from the onslaught of 
 destructive insects. 
 
 Whether deciduous or evergreen shrubs are 
 used their value as ornaments for the small city 
 
262 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 yard is qiiickJy apparent if we will only ol)serve 
 our own habit of vision as we pass along the 
 streets. While it is seldom that our line of 
 vision takes in the foliage of trees, our sight 
 as a general rule rests upon those objects which 
 are on a line with our eyes. In other words, 
 while we infrequently turn our gaze upward 
 
 Flowers of the Tall-growing Bird Cherry 
 
 toward the tree-tops, almost constantly our vi- 
 sion is directed to those objects which are on 
 a level or below the level of our sight. We 
 may fail to observe the form or character of 
 the foliage of a tree but it is not likely that we 
 shall fail to observe the low-growing shrub, 
 especially when our gaze is attracted by the 
 
SHRUBS 263 
 
 mass of bloom put forth in spring and smn- 
 mer. If this fact were more frequently taken 
 into consideration shrubs undoubtedly would 
 be more plentifully planted. Because of this 
 fact, they add to a city yard a means of con- 
 trast which on a large estate could be obtained 
 only by the judicious planting of tall-growing 
 trees. By the use of shrubs, therefore, we are 
 provided with the finishing touches which are 
 necessary to the completion of the picture we 
 desire to produce with nature's materials. 
 
 The following list will assist the amateur in 
 selecting shrubs for various situations and pur- 
 poses : 
 
 THE BEST HARDY SHRUBS 
 
 FOR SHADY SITUATIOXS 
 
 Mountain Laurel, Kalmia latifolia 
 
 Mountain Fetter Bush, Pieris {Andromeda) florihiinda 
 
 Mahonia, Berheris Aquifolium 
 
 St. John's Wort, Hypericiini aureum 
 
 Barberry, in variety, Berheris 
 
 Privet in variety, Ligustruni 
 
 Dogwood in variety, Cornus 
 
 Sweet Pepper, Clethra ahiifoUa 
 
 Wolfberry or Snowberry in variety, Si/inphoricarpos 
 
 Sweet-scented shrub, Calycanthus floridus 
 
 Wild Black currant, Ribes floridum 
 
 Slender deutzia, Deuizia gracilis 
 
 Rough-Leaved deutzia, Deuizia scahra 
 
 Japanese quince, Cydonia Japonica 
 
 SHRUBS THAT BLOO^I TWO MONTHS 
 
 Japanese rose, Kerria Japonica 
 Shrubby cinquefoil. PoUiitilhi frvficosa 
 Sweet pepper, Clethra alnifoUa 
 
264 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 St. John's Wort, Hypericum prolificum 
 l\ed root, Ceanothus Americanus 
 
 EVERGREEN SHRUBS 
 
 Mahonia, Berheris Aquifolium 
 
 Evergreen azalea, Azalea amoena 
 
 Mountain laurel, Kalmia latifolia 
 
 Mountain fetter-bush, Pieris (Andromeda) floribunda 
 
 Rliododendron Cataichiense and hybrids 
 
 Dwarf pine, Pinus montana, var. Mughus 
 
 SHRUBS WITH VARIEGATED FOLIAGE 
 
 Purple-leaved barberry, Berheris vulgaris, var. atropurpurea 
 
 Dogwood in variety, Cornus 
 
 Syringa, Philadelphus coronarius, var. aureus 
 
 Weigelia, Diervilla rosea, var. nana variegata 
 
 Shrubby Althea, Hibiscus Syriacus, var. fl. pi. fol. var. 
 
 Purple-leaved plum, Prunus Pissardi 
 
 Golden elder, Samhucus nigra, var. aurea 
 
 Filbert, Corylus maxima, var. pjurpurea 
 
 SHRUBS THAT BLOOM FROM APRIL TO JUNE 
 
 Goldenbell, Forsythia suspensa 
 
 Japanese Quince, Cydonia Japonica 
 
 Juneberry, A melanchier 
 
 Lilac, Syringa imlgaris and varieties 
 
 Barberry, Berheris vulgaris 
 
 Azalea, in variety 
 
 Daphne 
 
 White Kerria, RJwdotypos herrioides 
 
 Spircea in variety 
 
 Tree peonies in variety, Pceonia Moulan 
 
 Bush honeysuckle, Lonicera Tatarica 
 
 Deutzia 
 
 Snowball, Vihurnum 
 
 SHRUBS THAT BLOOM IN JULY, AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER 
 
 Buttonbush, Ceplialanthvs occidentalis 
 
 Spirwa 
 
 Sweet pepper, Clefhra ahii folia 
 
 St. John's \^'ort, Hypericum ^yrolificum 
 
 Deutzia 
 
 Hydrangea paniculata var. grandiflora 
 
 Shrubby Althea in A^ariety, Hibiscus Syriacus 
 
SHRUBS 265 
 
 SirnUBS WITH orxamextal fiutt 
 
 ]>arboiiy, Berhcris, scarlet and violet in September 
 
 Ked Osier. Corniis sangumea, white berries in September 
 
 Oleaster, Elwagnus longipes, red fruit 
 
 Strawberry bush, Euonymus, red and \vhile fruit 
 
 Cornelian cherry, Cornus mascula, fruit red 
 
 Bush honeysuckle, Lonicera, in varietv, showy red and yellow 
 fruit 
 
 Brambles, Rubus, in variety, red fruit 
 
 Elder, Samhuciis, purple fiiiit. changing to black in Auo-ust 
 and September * 
 
 Snowbcrry, ^umplwricarpos racoitusus, white berries all 
 winter 
 
 Wayfaring tree, Vibiirnum Lautaiui, bright red, nearly 
 black in September 
 
 High cranberry, ^'ihunu(nl OpiiJiis, red fruit, verv orna- 
 mental 
 
 Mahonia, Berhcris AquifoVium, l)]uish berries in July 
 
 Buckthorn, Rhamnus, black fruit 
 
CHAPTER XIII 
 
 TREES 
 
 If it is well understood — as it should be — 
 that the lawn surrounding the house is the 
 canvas upon which a picture is to be made, we 
 shall appreciate the fact that the extent to 
 which trees are planted will depend entirely 
 upon the size of the lawn. Naturally, where 
 the area is small and the plot of grass is lim- 
 ited, more dependence must be placed on 
 shrubs than on trees. In a yard of generous 
 dimensions, the trees have a place ; and, in such 
 situations, they are the legitimate materials 
 with which the landscape gardener obtains 
 many of his most etfective results. 
 
 PROPER SETTING FOR TREES 
 
 In the city yard of small size, trees, espe- 
 cially those which attain a great height, can not 
 be employed effectively. Here, if trees are 
 planted, very often the desired .picture is 
 marred. It is, for instance, little less than ab- 
 
 266 
 
TREES 
 
 PLANTING A TREE 
 
 267 
 
 — 1— 
 
 Dig the hole large and 
 deep, laying surface soil to 
 one side. Loosen earth in 
 bottom of hole. 
 
 Set the tree straight and 
 throw surface soil around 
 the roots. Leave no air 
 spaces; firm with the hand. 
 
 Throw in more soil, 
 steadying the tree, and 
 tramp into place. Be care- 
 ful not to injure the roots. 
 
 Do not firm the top layer 
 of soil ; let it remain loose 
 and pulverized, SliglitJy 
 mound the soil. 
 
268 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 surd, as was said in the chapter on shrul)s, to 
 set one or more of the tall-growing varieties 
 in a front yard that is no more than ten or fif- 
 teen feet deep and forty feet wide; the space 
 could be employed to far greater advantage. 
 We want shade but not at the expense of sun- 
 light, fresh air, good taste and health. 
 
 Still, trees have their value and it is only 
 necessary to give them the proper setting in 
 order to make apparent immediately how great 
 this value is. To crowd them on a small area 
 where they will not thrive, or to plant them 
 where, owing to their size, they are entirely 
 purposeless, is an error. Yet it is only too fre- 
 quently made ; indeed, it is rather the rule than 
 the exception. It seems to be the disposition 
 of most persons, as soon as they obtain a lot 
 whereon they expect to build sooner or later, 
 to begin immediately the planting of trees. 
 Without due consideration of the future possi- 
 bilities, of the health of the trees themselves 
 or the appearance of the place, they order them 
 to be set out and thereafter are reluctant to get 
 rid of them even though they find subsequently 
 that their planting was unwise. Irresponsible 
 agents of nurseries are to a great degree respon- 
 
TREES 269 
 
 sible for this indiscriminate practice, for they 
 no sooner learn that an unimproved lot has been 
 purchased by a prospective home-builder than 
 they besiege him. In glowing terms they de- 
 scribe the various sorts they offer and in the 
 end usually triumph by closing a contract for 
 enough stock of the kind to plant an entire 
 acre. 
 
 The simple truth is that we buy trees and 
 plant trees without giving due thought to 
 either the purchase or the planting. We set 
 them out because they are trees and not be- 
 cause they will lend beauty to the yard. While 
 this statement is made deliberately, it is not to 
 be understood as decrying in any sense the 
 ornamental value of the tree. The intention, 
 on the contrary, is to impress the planter with 
 the idea that indiscriminate planting is to be 
 avoided and that if the full value of the decora- 
 tive quality of the tree is to be realized, it must 
 be given not a haphazard setting but one in 
 which it can show to best advantage and in 
 which it will harmonize most gracefully with 
 all its surroundings. There is ample reason 
 for objection to the planting of tall-growing 
 trees on ordinary city lots where the valuable 
 
270 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 space is so small as to make a tree a ridiculous 
 if not a pitiful sight. 
 
 Where the yard is narrow and shallow with 
 a front lawn not more than fifteen feet deep 
 and the area in the rear of the house not more 
 than thirty feet deep, trees are out of place. 
 Doubtless there are many who will take issue 
 with this statement, but in support of the con- 
 tention, it should be necessary only to point to 
 small yards upon which are crowded large 
 trees and small yards upon which shrubs, 
 vines and flowers appear in their stead. The 
 difference in appearance should prove convinc- 
 ing. 
 
 PLACING TREES SUITABLY 
 
 To begin with, trees require many years be- 
 fore they reach that stage of perfection where 
 they cease to be mere nursery stock. Until 
 that stage is attained they are usually lacking 
 in decorative value for the reason that they 
 have not perfected their growth. In the sec- 
 ond place, when they have attained mature 
 height and spread of branches, if they are even 
 fair specimens of what they should be, in by 
 far the majority of instances they have out- 
 grown their surroundings and appear out of 
 place. In the third place, it is difficult to grow 
 
TREES 271 
 
 healthy trees under conditions presented l)y 
 the small city lot ; usually there is a surplus of 
 shade in one direction or a surplus of sun in 
 another, protection from one side and lack of 
 protection from the other, and all these things 
 tend to make a tree more or less one-sided in 
 its growth — a blemish which mars the appear- 
 ance of the tree and discounts to a great de- 
 gree its value as an ornament. If there be any 
 doubt of the truth of this statement compare 
 the tree grown in the city with the field-grown 
 specimen where conditions are not unbalanced 
 and where the growth is unhampered and un- 
 impeded. 
 
 BORDERING PARKS 
 
 If provision were made on all city streets 
 for bordering parks wide enough to accommo- 
 date trees, not only would it be unnecessary to 
 plant them within the limits of yards, but the 
 general effect obtained would be better. 
 Sometime it will be more commonly recognized 
 that in residence sections of our larger cities, 
 width of roadway may be often reduced with- 
 out loss to gain additional width to the street 
 parks. In far too many instances, we fancy 
 that we must have great width from curb to 
 
272 
 
 YAPvD AND GARDEN 
 
 curl) and no parks, whereas, it would profit us 
 a great deal more, so far as appearances are 
 concerned, to have less width between curbs 
 and more width in the border between sidewalk 
 and curb. If the latter policy were adopted, 
 by the judicious selection and planting of trees 
 
 Tree that has never been Trees ruined by ignorant 
 
 pruned pruner 
 
 (Photos, by Benjamin W. Doughiss) 
 
 on these bordering spaces, the entire street 
 would take upon itself an appearance impossi- 
 ble to obtain where everything is sacrificed to 
 roadway width. 
 
 There is no prettier or more refreshing 
 sight than city streets bordered on both sides 
 by tall-growing and wide-spreading trees in 
 
TREES 273 
 
 healthy vigor, in mature strength, far-reaeliing 
 in spread of foliage and with leaves and limbs 
 free from pest and disease. Residences are 
 sufficiently shaded, the streets themselves be- 
 come leafy archways and those who live there- 
 on as well as those who use them as high- 
 ways can not fail to mark the beautiful aspect 
 they present. 
 
 If, on the other hand, we thrust our side- 
 walks against the curb, widening the road- 
 way until the last available inch has been 
 seized upon, and abolish the bordering park, 
 we have converted a street into a mere thor- 
 oughfare for traffic and have rol)bed it of all 
 the ornamental possibilities it might otherwise 
 possess. Or, if we crowd the sidewalk out and 
 the street curl)ing in until we have left a bor- 
 der only two or three feet in width, our only 
 gain is something which is practically value- 
 less. Under such conditions it is difficult to 
 establish even a fair growth of grass. It 
 would be better to carry the crowding process 
 to its extreme and rid ourselves completely of 
 this strip of grass. But, where it is possible 
 to have street parks of fair width, either at the 
 sides or in the middle of the street, trees should 
 be planted and every effort should be made to 
 
274 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 insure their steady growth and healthful de- 
 velopment. 
 
 TREES ON LARGE CITY LOTS 
 
 Of course, where a city lot measures as much 
 as one hundred feet in width and one hundred 
 and fifty feet in depth trees may be used to ad- 
 vantage, for some shade about the house is an 
 absolute necessity if the hot days of our sum- 
 mer months are to be spent with comfort and 
 if we are to be protected from the cold of our 
 bleak and dreary winters. But this does not 
 mean that they are as available as decorative 
 material to the planter of such a yard as they 
 are to the landscape gardener who is working 
 on the extensive area of a country estate. On 
 the latter, trees are used to hide unattractive 
 views or to form backgrounds against which 
 other ornamental materials are employed and 
 here also they may stand for their own indi- 
 vidual beauty. On such a place they have ^ ^pur- 
 pose"; there is motive for their planting. On 
 the small city lot there is seldom the one or the 
 other. 
 
 Frequently, however, city lots are purchased 
 whereon already a tree of large size has estab- 
 lished itself. Where such is the case every ef- 
 
TREES 275 
 
 fort should be made to save the tree ; it should 
 be protected from any possible damage at the 
 hands of excavators, ditchers, or carpenters, 
 and where one 'obtains such a prize one should 
 make every effort to set the house so that the 
 tree need not be sacrificed. Even if it is nec- 
 essary to locate the dwelling three or four feet 
 in one direction or another from the site origi- 
 nally selected it will usually pay to make the 
 change; the builder can well afford to accomo- 
 date himself to the requirements of a stately 
 and magnificent tree specimen which, no matter 
 how he might plant or cultivate, could hardly 
 be duplicated in the course of a lifetime. 
 
 PRUNING 
 
 Very often the fact that such trees are estab- 
 lished on the lot purchased presents not a few 
 problems for solution. The tree may, for in- 
 stance, interfere with the grading desired. 
 This, however, is not difficult to overcome if a 
 little ingenuity is exercised. Sometimes the 
 trees will require pruning and wherever such 
 is the case the work should be undertaken by 
 a person of unquestioned knowledge and ex- 
 perience. Too often splendid specimens of 
 trees have been ruined by ''butchers'' who 
 
276 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 possess no knowledge whatever of pruning re- 
 quirements. They have "hacked" the tree out 
 of all semblance of shape, destroyed its pro- 
 portion and ''headed" it back until, if it re- 
 covers from the process at all, it will never 
 attain the perfect form it possessed before the 
 inexperienced laborer began his work. Severe 
 trimming and subsequent training in many in- 
 stances may be necessary, but rather- than 
 prune too severely it would be better to err on 
 the safe side, obtaining the effect desired by 
 degrees rather than by submitting the tree to 
 the tender mercies of a man without know- 
 ledge or experience. When a tree is old, long 
 straggling branches are in many cases the 
 cause of retarded growth; they are exposed to 
 the heat of the sun and to the drying winds and 
 the sap is impeded in its flow to such an ex- 
 tent that very little new growth can be made. 
 If these branches be headed back, not too se- 
 verely, new growth will soon show and the 
 trunk and limbs will subsequently be clothed 
 and protected while the tree's form will be im- 
 proved. But, in cutting off branches, if they 
 be large, the wounds left should be painted 
 with linseed oil paint. This prevents decay of 
 tlie wood and serves to protect the tree from 
 
TREES 277 
 
 diseases which often follow the operation of 
 pruning. 
 
 If the following principles are borne in mind 
 pruning will cease to be a mystery to the novice 
 and his trees thereafter need not be left at the 
 mercy of the ignorant : 
 
 1. Pruning the top strengthens the limbs re- 
 maining — the root system is not altered. 
 
 2. Pruning the roots retards top growth be- 
 cause it reduces the supply of food. 
 
 3. Trimming away terminal growths causes 
 forking which, obviously, increases or thick- 
 ens the branch system. It likewise encourages 
 fruit and flower production. 
 
 4. Winter pruning produces greater vigor 
 in limbs permitted to remain ; summer pruning 
 produces more wood. 
 
 5. Light annual pruning is better than heavy 
 pruning done at longer intervals. 
 
 6. Dead wood should be removed at once, no 
 matter the season. 
 
 TRANSPLANTING LARGE TREES 
 
 Modern methods now in vogue permit the 
 successful transplanting of trees of extraor- 
 dinary height and with an extensive spread of 
 roots. When, therefore, a lot is obtained upon 
 
278 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 which there are no old trees and upon which 
 it is desired to have trees of hirge size for im- 
 mediate effect, these may be employed. Of 
 course, while the tree presents no exception to 
 the rule that the younger a plant is the better 
 it withstands transplanting, still if the opera- 
 tion is carefully carried forward trees will suf- 
 fer few ill effects from the transplanting. The 
 principles governing the operation are the same 
 whether the tree is large or small ; it is only 
 in their execution that there is a difference. 
 Small trees may be transplanted by hand, 
 whereas various mechanical devices have been 
 perfected for the safe transplanting of the 
 larger trees. By these devices or machines 
 an immense ball of earth is lifted with the 
 roots and the roots themselves are but slightly 
 damaged. Where these machines are not to be 
 had they may be approximated l)y the use of 
 the riggings commonh^ employed by , house 
 movers. 
 
 Many persons believe that the moving of 
 large trees, even when the operation is accom- 
 plished with apparent success and without evi- 
 dent damage to the root system, is invariably 
 an ultimate failure. They are inclined to be- 
 lieve that smaller trees which have not been 
 
TREES 
 
 279 
 
280 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 submitted to such violent disturbance quickly 
 overtake the larger trees. This idea arises, no 
 doubt, from the custom which still very gener- 
 ally prevails of moving trees with trunks six 
 to twelve inches in diameter, with only a small 
 ball of roots measuring, in some instances, only 
 three or four feet in diameter. This ball, as 
 small as it is, can not contain the larger roots 
 and, as from sixty to ninety per cent, of the 
 feeding roots are lost in the process, the tree 
 naturally receives a set-back from which it is 
 not likely to recover. It sends out its leaves, 
 using in this process the plant foods stored with- 
 in its cells but, having nothing with which to 
 replenish the supply, fails to support the foliage 
 and, in successive seasons, the leaves are less 
 plentiful, the branches die and the bark itself 
 perishes. 
 
 In the transplanting of large trees it is most 
 important to obtain all the roots possible. In 
 order to do this the digging should be begun at 
 a distance great enough from the trunk of the 
 tree to permit all the excavation that may be 
 necessary. As the ends of the roots are un- 
 covered they should be carefully lifted and tied 
 so as not to impede the progress of the work- 
 men or suffer damage at their hands. As the 
 
TREES 281 
 
 earth is removed from beneath the tree the ti-ee 
 itself should be made secure by ropes which, 
 by the employment of pulleys, can be so ad- 
 justed as to give the tree at all stages of the 
 operation the necessary pitch to facilitate the 
 excavating. Supports should l)e placed under 
 the ball of earth remaining in contact with the 
 roots so that the tree will not be in danger of 
 falling into the hole made by the diggers. 
 Then, with the root system uncovered and 
 carefully tied so that no damage will result, 
 b}^ use of the ^'jacks'' and other apparatus 
 commonly employed by house movers, the tree 
 may be lifted and brought to its final location. 
 
 TRANSPLANTING SMALL TREES 
 
 But, when a tree is small, we have no such 
 difficulties to encounter in transplanting it. 
 As already suggested, nursery-grown trees 
 which have been transplanted once or twice — 
 as most nursery trees are — prove the best. 
 They have been cultivated with a view to trans- 
 planting and withstand the operation much 
 more successfully. Such specimens, if sound, 
 full of life and planted in a favoral)]e soil, 
 are almost sure to thrive. To make this surer, 
 however, it is necessary to remember a few 
 
282 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 fundamental principles in the treatment and 
 care of the stock that is being transplanted. 
 As soon as the tree is received from the nur- 
 sery, it should be pruned. First, cut out all 
 the broken branches ; second, cut back all the 
 side branches to within a few inches of the 
 stem, leaving at least two sound buds; third, 
 the leader should be cut back; and fourth, all 
 the broken or bruised roots should be cut away 
 just above the wound with a sharp knife, mak- 
 ing the cut in such manner that, as the tree is 
 set on the bottom of the hole, the cut surface 
 of the remaining stub will come in direct con- 
 tact with the soil. It is also advisable to 
 shorten slightly any straggling roots which 
 may appear. 
 
 These rules apply particularly to fruit trees 
 that "may be set out on the home grounds, but 
 in the planting of shade and ornamental trees 
 the process is not very different. Of course, 
 the owner does not relish the idea of buying 
 a fifteen-foot Norway maple, for instance, only 
 to cut off its top and half of its roots before 
 he plants it. But it is always best to cut back 
 the tops of the trees to a considerable degree 
 when they are transplanted, for the root sys- 
 tem is almost invariably reduced and if the top 
 
TREES 283 
 
 is not shortened in similar proportions the bal- 
 ance between roots and top, which it is always 
 wise to preserve, is destroyed. 
 
 METHOD OF PLANTING 
 
 Deciduous trees must be transplanted either 
 very early in the spring, as soon as the ground 
 can be worked, or late in the fall after the leaves 
 have fallen. Possibly the best results follow 
 spring planting under ordinary conditions. 
 But, whichever the season selected, the hole to 
 receive the trees must be deeper and larger 
 than the root mass and in the bottom there 
 should be a liberal quantity of well-rotted 
 manure stirred in the soil. On top of this in 
 turn there should be a layer of three or four 
 inches of good earth. 
 
 It is always best in setting the tree to have 
 at hand a quantity of finely pulverized soil 
 which may be thrown in as soon as the tree 
 is placed in position. As the hole is gradually 
 filled make sure that the dirt is pressed down 
 frequently and that the roots come in close and 
 intimate contact with the earth so that no air 
 spaces are left. Also make sure that the roots 
 are spread in a natural position and that no 
 two of them touch each other. Do not hesitate 
 
284 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 to firm the soil thoroughly about the roots so 
 that the new growth will be encouraged from 
 the beginning. While it is possible, of course, 
 to apply too much jjressure to the soil about 
 the roots, more often the trouble is due to a 
 lack of pressure. Before the soil is made firm, 
 see that there is sufficient earth underlying the 
 roots to prevent any damage to them owing 
 to the pressure from above. When the roots 
 have been covered with earth and this has 
 been ''firmed," water should be applied liber- 
 ally. After this the remaining dirt should be 
 thrown in loosely and not tamped at all. Ap- 
 plied in this manner, it serves as a mulch and 
 is far better than when the soil is rendered 
 hard and compact from the surface down, 
 
 CULTIVATION 
 
 The planting does not represent the end of 
 the work by any means. Trees require plant 
 food and unless the soil is naturally very rich 
 this food must be supplied from time to time. 
 When the tree is planted on the lawn and lib- 
 eral dressings of manure are supplied for the 
 grass in the fall or spring, this usually will suf- 
 fice for the trees. But trees are always grate- 
 ful for plant food in any form, such as ground 
 
TREES 285 
 
 bone and potash or other good conimercial fer- 
 tilizers or barnyard manure. AVatering also 
 should not be neglected while the tree is re- 
 covering from the shock of transplanting, and 
 the water should be so generously supplied that 
 there will be no chance of the moisture fail- 
 ing to reach the roots. Mere dampening of 
 the surface is of no benefit ; the water must be 
 given in such quantity that it will saturate the 
 soil and penetrate to the roots. This takes 
 much more water than is commonly supposed, 
 for the diffusion of moisture through the soil 
 when supplied to the surface is so slow that 
 the beginner may imagine that, because a pud- 
 dle has been formed on top, the roots have been 
 plentifully supplied. 
 
 EVERGREENS 
 
 In the transplanting of evergreens more care 
 is necessary than with the deciduous trees. 
 They should he planted a fidl month before the 
 iisucd Slimmer drought sets in or before the 
 cold of ivinter is due. This advice is made 
 reasonable at once when it is considered that 
 the roots of evergreens must supply the foliage 
 with moisture every day in the year. There- 
 fore, if established l^efore natural conditions 
 
286 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 begin to tax all the energies and resources of 
 the trees, they are more likely to succeed. In 
 winter, for instance, a few days of sunshine 
 will prove a severe trial for even an old-estab- 
 lished tree; the leaves dry faster than the 
 frozen roots can replace the sap lost. A newly 
 planted tree, under such conditions, would suf- 
 fer severely, for the roots, broken and bruised, 
 would find the task too much for them in their 
 enfeebled condition. So far as transplanting 
 in summer is concerned, it must be remembered 
 that evergreens are far more sensitive than de- 
 ciduous trees to drying of the roots. The 
 presence of the resinous sap is the explanation ; 
 this, when slightly dried, hardens. On this ac- 
 count, avoid exposing the roots of evergreens 
 to the sun or wind; even when conveying the 
 trees only a short distance, puddle the roots or 
 wrap them in wet sackcloth. See to it also 
 that all ragged ends of roots are neatly 
 trimmed, cutting off the l)roken end square and 
 clean. But never prune the foliage. The 
 leader may be cut out if considered necessary, 
 but, further than this, no trimming should be 
 done. Not enough can be accomplished in the 
 way of restoring the balance between root and 
 top growth to make the pruning of value, while 
 
TREES 
 
 287 
 
288 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 even a little pruning — in addition to cutting 
 back the leader — will mar the symmetry and 
 beauty of the specimen. 
 
 SELECTING TREES 
 
 American and European nurseries offer more 
 than six hundred species of trees that are 
 hardy in the northern and middle states of 
 this country. Of this number nearly two hun- 
 dred and fifty are natives of America; the 
 others come from eastern, western and central 
 Asia and Europe. From such a list, of course, 
 it is possible to make selections almost without 
 limit, but only such trees should be planted as 
 are well adapted to the conditions under which 
 they are to be grown. On this account native 
 trees are always to be preferred, for these will 
 be better suited to the climate and soil and ac- 
 cordingly will be more likely to succeed. 
 
 The selection of trees for street and avenue 
 planting is a matter of much importance. No 
 matter how imposing may be the architecture 
 of a city, the foliage of trees will enhance its 
 value; on the other hand, no matter how un- 
 pretentious, even ugly, the structures may be, 
 the trees will lend them beauty. They provide 
 grateful shade in summer for overheated man 
 
TREES 289 
 
 and beast and, from a pecuniary point of view, 
 they are a good investment, attracting atten- 
 tion and inviting home-seekers. Fortunately 
 tlie list from which we can select for this pur- 
 pose is large and varied, but the following are 
 undou])tedly the best, all considered: The 
 American elm {Ulmus Americana) ; the Eng- 
 lish elm (Ulmiis campestris) ; the horse chest- 
 nut (^sciilus Hippocastanum) ; the silver ma- 
 j)le (Acer saccharinum) ; the American ash 
 (Fraxinus Americana) ; the buttonwood or 
 sycamore (Platanus (Kcidentalis) ; the maiden- 
 hair tree {Ginkgo hiloba) ; the rock or sugar 
 maple {Acer saccharum) ; the Norway maple 
 {Acer platanoides) ; the American beech {Fa- 
 gus ferriiginea) ; the white poplar {Populus 
 alba) ; the American linden ( Tilia Americana) ; 
 the European linden {Tilia vulgaris) ; the tree 
 of Heaven {AilantJius glanditlosa) ; the white 
 willow {Salix alba) ; the tulip tree {Lirioden- 
 dron hdipifera) ; the red oak {Quercus rubra) ; 
 and the pin oak {Quercus palustris). 
 
 In the planting of street trees, sanitary and 
 hygienic conditions must be considered. The 
 streets should not be too shaded, nor should the 
 trees themselves be crowded. The minimum 
 distance apart for setting the trees fixed by 
 
290 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 experts is sixty feet, but in the case of the 
 large growers, like the elms and soft maples, 
 seventy-five feet wonld probably be better. It 
 is usually found, however, that the distance is 
 mucli less, each owner of a small lot planting 
 two or three trees in the immediate front of 
 his own home without regard to the proximity 
 of neighboring trees. This is very likely to 
 continue the case until municipal governments 
 realize not only the advantages but the neces- 
 sity of taking in hand the street planting as 
 they have the control, the management and the 
 ornamental planting of the public parks. 
 
 TREE-DESTROYERS 
 
 Trees planted in cities are established under 
 artificial conditions and, in the care bestowed 
 upon them, this fact must not be overlooked. 
 A specimen growing in the open field, under 
 normal conditions, will in most instances take 
 care of itself; it requires no pruning — it 
 prunes itself— and, in other respects, it thrives 
 best, probably, when left to its own devices. 
 But the same tree transplanted to a city site is 
 introduced to abnormal conditions ; the atmos- 
 phere is smothery with smoke, buildings crowd 
 it, electric light wires burn it, leaking gas suf- 
 
TREES 291 
 
 focates it, and careless excavators shatter its 
 roots. It becomes an easy prey to insects and 
 an easy victim of disease. It requires atten- 
 tion, even some coddling, and mil ess attention 
 is given it, its health is not likely to be remark- 
 able. But it resents misdirected efforts in its 
 behalf as much as it resents the infliction of 
 damage due to less considerate motives. And 
 probably the most persistent source of disas- 
 ter is the ignorant laborer armed with pruning 
 shears and saw to whom reference has already 
 been made. Still he is not alone in the cate- 
 gory of tree-destroyers. In every tree-top we 
 can read the history of some great fight with 
 impending disaster. Leaf, flower, fruit, twig 
 and branch recite the story to those who know 
 the language, while, underground, other dis- 
 closures await the intelligent investigator. 
 Some of the enemies are natural but many of 
 them can be traced to man and man's civiliza- 
 tion. 
 
 Insects come first. After these the most de- 
 structive agent is fire. Winds, lightning, ice, 
 drought and flood all cause damage; fungi at- 
 tack the wood ; wasteful lumbermen deplete the 
 forests and bacterial and constitutional dis- 
 eases lurk where least suspected. 
 
292 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 The insects may be combated with success if 
 the battle is begun in time. Borers, infesting 
 the solid wood, tunneling and cutting it into 
 channels; sucking insects, puncturing the skin 
 of leaves, fruit, twigs or roots and withdraw- 
 ing the juices ; chewing insects, devouring the 
 substance of leaves and other parts of the tree 
 — all these can be exterminated by the use of 
 poisons, sprayed or fumigated, or by the em- 
 ployment of mechanical means. The borers 
 must be dug out, but the chewing insects may 
 be killed by spraying poison — Paris green or 
 arsenic of lead, for instance — on their food. 
 The sucking insects are killed by spraying 
 with kerosene and water, made into an emul- 
 sion, with whale-oil soap or with a mixture of 
 lime and sulphur in solution. These sprays 
 choke or smother the insect or so injure the 
 body wall that the tree enemy succumbs. 
 
CHAPTER XIV 
 
 SOIL AND FERTILIZERS 
 
 Science, with all its discoveries, has iiot yet 
 solved the mystery of soil. It has learned 
 much from practical experiment and labora- 
 tory investigation, but it has not yet unriddled 
 the riddle of the soil's support of plant life. 
 We are still in the dark as to the nature 
 of many of the substances which contribute to 
 the formation of soil and we know no more of 
 the part they play in plant nutrition. We 
 know, in fact, little more than that the soil, far 
 from being a dead, inert mass, is teeming with 
 living organisms that are constantly at work. 
 It is, as it has been described, a laboratory in 
 which wonderful chemical actions are taking 
 place whereby food for vegetable life is sup- 
 plied and means provided for its assimilation 
 by plant roots. 
 
 But with the theory of all this, the gardener 
 has little to do. Like the electrician who 
 harnesses a power whose very nature is a mys- 
 293 
 
294 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 Decorative Value of the Haw 
 
SOIL AND FEKTILIZEKS 295 
 
 tery, the cultivator may proceed to turn to 
 practical use what Nature has provided even 
 though he has no intimate knowledge of the 
 purposes or the processes involved. Ex- 
 perience must be his teacher and, in this in- 
 stance, at least, it is a good instructor. 
 
 COMPOSITION OF SOIL 
 
 Plants, we know, must feed and 1)reathe if 
 they are to live. We know further that some 
 soils provide the plants with the necessities of 
 life in plentiful quantity, others half starve 
 them and still others feed them not at all. It 
 is obvious that the gardener, if he is to have 
 healthful, fully developed plants, must obtain, 
 at first hand or by cultivation, soil conditions 
 that will provide his plants with all they de- 
 mand. 
 
 Soil, in a physical sense, is a substance com- 
 posed chiefly of minute fragments of mineral 
 matter with which is mixed decayed vegetable 
 and animal matter. According to its compo- 
 sition it is one of three types — sand, clay or 
 humus. Sandy soil contains 80 to 100 per cent, 
 of sand, and, owing to the absence of vegetable 
 or animal matter in any appreciable propor- 
 tions, supplies but little nutriment to growing 
 
296 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 plants. It is valuable, however, as a medium 
 in which to root cuttings, for fungus diseases 
 seldom develop in such a soil, and, as the 
 plantlets, until their roots have sprouted, re- 
 quire little nourishment, outside of what is ob- 
 tained through the water applied, no soil is 
 better adapted to the purpose than that which 
 is sandy. 
 
 Clay soils contain only a small proportion of 
 sand — from to 20 per cent. — and, unless in 
 some manner more sand is added, it is of little 
 value for plant raising. It contains an abun- 
 dance of plant food, but, owing to the fact that 
 the food is unavailable, plant life can not 
 thrive in such a rooting medium. The small 
 particles of soil are tightly compressed in clay 
 and, though these absorb moisture, they give 
 it off reluctantly. Roots suffer not only on 
 this account but also through their inability to 
 penetrate into the compact mass. 
 
 Humus is decayed vegetable matter and may, 
 in turn, be divided into two classes. The first 
 is composed of vegetable matter which has 
 come to decay in dry earth and is known as 
 leaf-mold. The second is composed of vegeta- 
 ble matter which has decayed under the water 
 of bogs or swamps and is known as peat. Both 
 
SOIL AND FERTILIZERS 297 
 
 are important constituents of good garden 
 soil, but neither is supplied with all the nutri- 
 tive substances demanded by plants for their 
 development. Both are light and porous and 
 are used to mix with stiffer soils to impart to 
 the latter the two qualities for which they are 
 most noteworthy. 
 
 Soils, as they are found in yards, gardens 
 and fields, are mixtures. They i)artake of the 
 character of one or another of the types ac- 
 cording to which contributes most to the com- 
 position. A sandy soil, for instance, is that 
 in which sand predominates, while a stiff, 
 heavy soil, or clay soil, contains a greater 
 quantity of clay than a well-proportioned soil 
 should contain. These mixtures have in their 
 turn been named. First, tliere is loam, a soil 
 in which there is from 40 to 60 per cent, of 
 sand and the rest clay. This is the basis. If 
 a loam contains more sand — from 60 to 80 
 per cent. — it is known as a ''sandy loam"; if 
 it contains less — 20 to 40 per cent. — it is 
 known as a '' clay loam." In most instances, 
 some of the sand and clay is replaced by humus 
 and, if the quantity be large, the soil is desig- 
 nated as ^' black loam." 
 
 Plant food is of three kinds — water, chem- 
 
298 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 ical substances and gases. The first is essen- 
 tial not only as a source of food but as a food 
 solvent and a distributing agency of many es- 
 sential inorganic substances which plant life 
 requires. The principal chemical substances 
 demanded by plants are potash, phosphorus 
 and lime; and the gases are nitrogen, oxygen, 
 carbon dioxide and hydrogen. Most of these 
 are present in the average soils of meadows, 
 but if the soil lacks them, they must be sup- 
 plied in greater or less quantities and in avail- 
 able form before sturdy plants of any sort can 
 be raised. This we do by applying fertilizers. 
 
 GOOD GARDEN SOIL 
 
 Fertilizers, however, will not put poor soil 
 into good mechanical condition. We might apply 
 hundreds of pounds of any or all of these ferti- 
 lizers to clay and still the plants supported by 
 the soil would not prosper. This would be due 
 to the fact that the food so supplied is not avail- 
 able. The mechanical condition of the soil 
 would prevent the proper assimilation of the 
 food and the plants would perish. To get soil, 
 therefore, into the best condition, we must first 
 of all cultivate it, work it and see to it that, 
 from the mechanical viewpoint, it does not pos- 
 
SOIL AND FERTILIZERS 299 
 
 sess an injurious surplus of sand or clay or 
 humus. If the soil of our yards is too heavy, 
 sand must be added ; if too light, we must sup- 
 ply clay and humus. 
 
 The matter is simple, and the amateur must 
 not permit himself to become confused by tech- 
 nical terms or to believe that the soil in his 
 
 Colony of Sedum spectahile in Poor Soil 
 
 yard is ''impossible." Soil can usually be put 
 into very good condition by no other process 
 than thorough cultivation. It is not wise, there- 
 fore, to be too hasty in deciding that the soil 
 at your disposal is not good soil. In not a 
 few instances, the amateur, bent upon supply- 
 ing all the best conditions for plant growth. 
 
300 YAED AND GARDEN 
 
 fancies that new soil is necessary. The old 
 soil is removed and, in its place, new earth 
 is deposited. The expense is great, but the 
 real extravagance is only evident when it is 
 learned subsequently that the work was alto- 
 gether unnecessary. The author recalls one 
 instance in which he was informed by an en- 
 thusiastic beginner that the soil in the yard 
 where the latter expected to establish his gar- 
 den was worthless. A visit to the place, how- 
 ever, disclosed the fact that a rank growth of 
 weeds had sprung up and was thriving so lux- 
 uriantly that there could be no question of the 
 value of the soil on hand. In another in- 
 stance, over one hundred loads of soil were 
 carted away from a back-yard and dumped up- 
 on a vacant lot. This was done, of course, 
 to make a place for good soil. Two months 
 later, the weeds upon the ''poor" soil stood 
 higher than a man's head and a colony of nas- 
 turtiums had established itself and was produc- 
 ing blooms finer than those the hasty begin- 
 ner was coaxing in his new soil. 
 
 Sorauer, in his Physiology of Plants, says: 
 *'The ideal condition of a soil is one in which 
 it resembles a sponge, and in which it will re- 
 tain the greatest amount of nutritive substances 
 
SOIL AND FERTILIZERS 301 
 
 and water without losing its capacity for absorb- 
 ing air." 
 
 No briefer or more practical definition could 
 be made and if the amateur pays heed to it 
 many gardening problems and disappointments 
 will be avoided. Cultivation is obviously the 
 first means to the end, for not only does it 
 bring the soil to good condition, but it renders 
 available such plant food as it contains, and 
 prepares the earth for the reception of addi- 
 tional nutritive substances. At the same time, 
 cultivation enables the gardener to provide, 
 even in limited space, the soil most suitable for 
 the plants he may desire to grow. For in- 
 stance, if his soil be of a heavy nature, contain- 
 ing less sand than it should, it will need com- 
 paratively little modifying to make it fit for the 
 growth of roses, plants that prefer such soil 
 conditions. On the other hand, in the bed 
 wherein he may desire to grow pansies, he will 
 find that the addition of leaf-mold will insure 
 him more vigorous plants and more profuse 
 and larger blooms. 
 
 CULTIVATION OF THE SOIL 
 
 It follows, consequently, that if there be in 
 the beginning a workable foundation, it is bet- 
 
302 YARD AND GAEDEN 
 
 ter to bring it to the fittest condition by careful 
 cultivation than to remove it entirely and sub- 
 stitute a better soil, perhaps, but one which, 
 after all, must be considerably modified to meet 
 the demands of various plants. But, whether 
 the soil is new or old, it must be well worked. 
 Plow it or spade it and in either case make sure 
 that the cultivation is deep and thorough. 
 
 There is no better method of preparing the 
 soil than that which the English gardener 
 terms ^'bastard trenching." It is effective 
 and not difficult to execute. The top soil to 
 the depth of one foot is removed, pulverized 
 as it is thrown to one side, and the underlying 
 soil is spaded to the depth of a foot. The sur- 
 face earth is then replaced in its original po- 
 sition. It is at once apparent that this method 
 of digging garden beds and borders permits 
 not only a thorough tillage of the soil but the 
 addition of fertilizer and its complete incor- 
 poration with the earth. It affords, too, a sim- 
 ple means for the preparation of the soil for 
 plants which may require special rooting me- 
 diums; humus may be added while the opera- 
 tion is in progress or sand or heavy soil may 
 replace that which is not of proper physical 
 condition. The process, moreover, insures the 
 
SOIL AND FEETILIZERS 303 
 
 removal of all stones and rubl)isli from the 
 beds and borders so treated and discloses the 
 necessity — should it exist — for providing 
 drainage. 
 
 DRAINAGE 
 
 The subject of drainage should not be over- 
 looked by the gardener, for it often means 
 success or failure. In cases where the garden 
 is small, confined to a bed or border, drainage 
 may not play an important part. Still, even 
 in such instances, a water-logged soil is ob- 
 viously not desirable. It can be corrected by 
 removing the earth entirely to a depth of thirty 
 inches and, after setting a five-inch layer of 
 gravel in the bottom, refilling, being careful to 
 replace the surface soil on top. Where, how- 
 ever, larger areas are to be drained, tile pipe, 
 set in runs, should be used. 
 
 FERTILIZERS 
 
 The use of fertilizers is a matter that proves 
 difficult for the beginner to master. He is far 
 more likely to surfeit his plants on too much 
 than to starve them on too little, and, so far as 
 this danger is concerned, he must depend upon 
 his own judgment to avoid it. No rule can be 
 laid down for the application of animal ma- 
 
304 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 nures or of those in chemical form, for soils 
 differ materially and what might be right in 
 one case would prove too much or too little in 
 another. If, however, the amateur confines 
 himself in the beginning to the use of animal 
 manures, he will materially reduce the risk. 
 Of these manures, produced by cow, horse, 
 sheep and poultry, cow manure is the best and 
 safest. In any event, it is most generally ap- 
 plied and the best for the greatest number of 
 plants. Horse manure is more heating and, 
 with hen manure, should be used on stiff, 
 cold soils rather than upon a warm, sandy com- 
 post. 
 
 All animal manure should be well rotted be- 
 fore it is applied. Make use of it only after it 
 has stood at least six months and, during this 
 period, been forked over frequently. It should 
 then assume much of the appearance of rich, 
 black earth, should be fine and should retain 
 very little, if, indeed, any of its original form. 
 So far as the quantity to be applied is con- 
 cerned, here, as already stated, the gardener's 
 judgment must come into play, but, under av- 
 erage conditions, a wheel-barrow load to a 
 square yard is as much as should be used. This 
 is ample for strong-growing plants and for well 
 
SOIL AND FERTILIZERS 305 
 
 established shrubs; less should be distributed 
 for plants of weaker growth. 
 
 Hen manure supplies fertilizing elements in 
 more concentrated form than the other barn- 
 yard products and, on this account, should be 
 applied cautiously. It is best used when mixed 
 with an equal quantity of loam or leaf-mold. 
 Sheep manure is also a strong fertilizer and, 
 while it is to be recommended, especially 
 as it can be had in pulverized form, it 
 is best applied as a liquid fertilizer. Make 
 the solution by suspending a bag containing 
 one pound in five gallons of water. When the 
 solution assumes the color of tea, apply it to 
 the beds or borders. 
 
 Cow manure may be applied in the same 
 manner, using a bushel to fifty gallons of water. 
 Another fertilizer which is readily applied in 
 this manner is soot — soft coal soot. Soot 
 water is made by suspending a bag containing 
 one-half pint of soot in ten gallons of water. 
 Soot, however, is a valuable stimulant when ap- 
 plied directly to the soil. It imparts a glossy 
 dark green foliage and healthy vigor to many 
 plants and, in both the flower and vegetable 
 gardens, does much to banish pests such as 
 caterpillars and leaf-miners. 
 
106 
 
 YAED AND GARDEN 
 
SOIL AND FEETILIZEES 307 
 
 Hard-wood ashes, kept dry, are also valuable, 
 not only as a fertilizer but as a preventive of in- 
 sects. They should not be mixed with manure 
 but" should be strewn over the surfaces of beds 
 or borders after the other manures have be- 
 come incorporated with the soil. 
 
 Flowers and shrubs require a considerable 
 quantity of phosphoric acid. Ground bone 
 may be used to supply the demand and, besides 
 containing this element, it also supplies nitro- 
 gen. A good dressing, to be mixed with the 
 soil or applied to the surface in the autumn, is 
 made of four parts of ground bone and one of 
 muriate of potash. The mixture should be ap- 
 plied at the rate of one pound to fifty or sixty 
 square feet of surface. 
 
 Nitrate of soda encourages luxuriant growth 
 of stalk and foliage rather than of flowers. It 
 should be applied at the rate of one ounce to 
 the square yard. 
 
 A convenient and satisfactory liquid fertilizer 
 can be made of the commercial fertilizers as 
 follows : 
 
 5 oz. sulphate of potash 
 
 1 lb. nitrate of soda 
 
 1 lb. monobasic calcium phosphate 
 
 These are added to one gallon of water and 
 this solution, in turn, is diluted from fifteen to 
 
308 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 thirty times, beginning with the weaker solu- 
 tion and, as growth progresses, gradually 
 increasing the strength until the more concen- 
 trated solution is being employed. When used 
 on lawns to hasten growth, the proportion of 
 nitrate of soda should be doubled and the cal- 
 cium phosphate reduced by half, but, if used on 
 plants, especially those grown in pots, reduce 
 the nitrate one-half and double the amount of 
 potash. 
 
CHAPTER XV 
 
 INSECTS AND DISEASES 
 
 No sooner is a plant established or a garden 
 planted than the gardener mnst begin his war 
 against insect and disease. If it is not the one 
 that menaces his plants, it is the other, and, 
 not infrequently, both are present to work 
 havoc if the planter is not on his guard. In 
 the case of both, an ounce of prevention is 
 worth a pound of cure and, while preventive 
 measures do not always insure the freedom of 
 a yard, garden, orchard, shrubbery or planta- 
 tion of shade trees from attack, at least they 
 give the insects and diseases less opportunity 
 to gain hold. Moreover, their exercise means 
 a thoroughness that will result in the immedi- 
 ate detection of an invasion and the subsequent 
 attack upon the enemy before opportunity has 
 been afforded for its estal)lishing itself. 
 
 CLEANLINESS THE BEST PREVENTIVE 
 
 Cleanliness is the first and foremost means 
 to the end. Keep the yard clean, the shrub- 
 309 
 
310 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 bery borders free from weeds and the hardy 
 borders and flower-beds in a high state of culti- 
 vation. Remove dead leaves, twigs and limbs 
 and, if they appear to have perished from some 
 abnormal cause, burn them. Be cautious in 
 what you deposit on the compost bed for, very 
 often, disease is reintroduced into the garden 
 by using decayed vegetable matter that is in- 
 fested with disease or in which are deposited 
 the eggs of . destructive insects. In many in- 
 stances, when an entire plant or shrub is badly 
 attacked, it is best to remove the stricken plant 
 at once and burn it without delay. 
 
 METHODS OF DESTROYING INSECTS 
 
 With the origin, history and classification of 
 the various destructive insects, the gardener 
 is not greatly concerned. It is more to his ad- 
 vantage to know their habits, for it is through 
 a knowledge of these that he is enabled to com- 
 bat them. He must know, first of all, whether 
 the insect which has invaded his garden or his 
 orchard is a biting or a sucking insect. If the 
 former, direct poisons, such as the arsenicals, 
 are employed, for insects of this class actually 
 masticate and swallow some portion of the solid 
 substance of the plant, as the wood, bark. 
 
INSECTS AND DISEASES 
 
 ;ii 
 
 raying Easily Done in the Averaije City Yard 
 
312 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 leaves, fruit or flower. If the insect, however, 
 is of the sucking variety, injuring plants by the 
 gradual consumption of plant juices — such as 
 the thrips, plant-lice, scale insects and mites — 
 then a poison must be used that will act exter- 
 nally upon the bodies of the insects. Obtaining 
 their food by inserting their sucking beaks into 
 
 Typical Chowing- Insect (Cecropia moth) 
 
 the soft tissues of the plant that lie below the 
 external covering, they escape poisons that 
 would prove fatal to the chewing insect and 
 must be combated, therefore, by other and more 
 direct means, such as the employment of caus- 
 tic substances, those that will smother them by 
 closing or clogging their breathing pores, or 
 
INSECTS AND DISEASES 313 
 
 exterminate them by filling the air surrounding 
 them with poisonous fumes. 
 
 The following table lists the insects most 
 commonly met with and prescribes the poison 
 for each, giving at the same time the names of 
 the plants most frequently attacked.* 
 
 j^^ts — Usually harmful only on the lawn. 
 Pour a teaspoonful of bisulphate of carbon in 
 the holes and immediately cover or plug. 
 
 Aphis — Plant-lice, pale or dark green, brown 
 or black, found on stems and leaves all sea- 
 son outdoors and on indoor plants all winter. 
 Spray with whale-oil soap or fumigate with to- 
 bacco. 
 
 Borer — Many trees in addition to the maple 
 are attacked by borers. The round-headed 
 apple borer and the flat-headed borer attack 
 the apple and the thorn ; the peach borer attacks 
 the plum, peach and cherry, and other trees, 
 such as the poplar, willow, linden, locust, etc. 
 Apply the same treatment as that prescribed 
 for the maple-borer. 
 Black Lice — See Aphis. 
 
 * The aiitlior is indebted for much of the matter on this sub- 
 ject to the various bulletins issued by the Department of Agri- 
 culture and especially to Benjamin W. Douglass, State Ento- 
 mologist of Indiana, not only for assistance frequently ren- 
 dered, but for many photographs as well. 
 
314 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 Canker Worm — This insect feeds on the 
 leaves, devouring all save the skeleton and mid- 
 rib and giving to the tree attacked the appear- 
 ance of having suffered from exposure to fire. 
 It is a dull-colored measuring worm, and drops 
 from the tree by a thread web. Bands of tar 
 or sticky paper may be used with good results, 
 provided the bands are employed from the mid- 
 dle of November to the latter part of April. 
 Spraying with Paris green or arsenate of lead 
 is also effective. 
 
 Catalpa Sphinx — The so-called Catalpa 
 Sphinx is difficult to control, owing to the char- 
 acter of the plants it feeds on. Neither spray- 
 ing nor hand picking is practical, and the only 
 method of control seems to be thorough cul- 
 tivation under the trees in both late fall and 
 early spring. 
 
 Chrysanthemum Lice — See Aphis. 
 
 Codlin Moth — It is the presence of this insect 
 that makes apple growing difficult in this coun- 
 try. The insect hatches from the cocoons in 
 the late spring and at once lays its eggs on 
 the young apples, mostly at the flower end. 
 The trees should be sprayed just after the 
 blossoms fall so as to fill the calyx with the 
 poison, as many of the young larvae enter the 
 
INSECTS AND DISEASES 315 
 
 fruit at this point. In case of very wet weather 
 it is advisable to give a second spraying about 
 two weeks later and again early in July. The 
 late spraying is to meet a second brood which 
 appears about that time. The first spraying 
 may be of Paris green or other arensic poison, 
 the subsequent ones with poisoned Bordeaux. 
 
 Cottonivood-leaf ^ee^/e— Striped beetle at- 
 tacking poplars and willows and feeding on 
 leaves and shoots. Apply arsenites. 
 
 Cutworm — Devours flowers and foliage. Use 
 arsenite spray. 
 
 Curculio—l^hi^ is a small beetle that aifects 
 cherries, apples and plums— notably the last. 
 The adult beetles have a habit of feeding on 
 the fruit and some of them may be poisoned 
 with a Paris green spray applied just after the 
 blossoms fall. It is also possible to gather the 
 small beetles by jarring them down from the 
 tree and catching them on sheets spread on the 
 ground. Especially constructed ^'Curculio 
 catchers" are sometimes employed for this pur- 
 pose and are made so that they may be moved 
 from tree to tree. The insects are collected 
 from the sheet and destroyed. 
 
 Earthivorms — Troublesome only in potted 
 soil. Water with brine water. 
 
316 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 Elm Beetle — Yellowish-brown color, one- 
 fourth inch long. Appears in early summer. 
 Feeds on leaves. Spray with Paris green last 
 of May or early in June and again about the 
 middle of June or use arsenites with kerosene 
 emulsion. 
 
 Elm Scale — Small, soft scale insect of whitish 
 color. Appears on underside of branches. 
 Spray with kerosene emulsion the first two 
 weeks in June. 
 
 Fall Weh-worm — Larva one inch long, hairy. 
 Very destructive, feeding on the leaves of al- 
 most all the trees. Burn the webs where 
 formed. Spray with arsenites. 
 
 Four-striped Plant Bug — A yellow, black- 
 striped bug, one-fourth inch long. Punctures 
 young leaves and shoots of many plants, espe- 
 cially the dahlia. Hand pick or spray with 
 kerosene emulsion. 
 
 Green-fy — See Aphis. 
 
 Hollyhock Bug — Small bug of greenish color 
 that causes serious injury to hollyhocks. Spray 
 with kerosene emulsion. 
 
 Leaf -cutter — Yellowish-green caterpillar 
 about one inch long, black spots. Appears in 
 June and July. Spray with tobacco or ker- 
 osene emulsion. 
 
INSECTS AND DISEASES 317 
 
 Lice — See Aphis. 
 
 Maple Borer — Dangerous insect enemy be- 
 cause its presence is difficult to detect before 
 serious injury lias been done. It is a beetle 
 with yellowish head, body an inch long and 
 wings yellow and black. Appears in July and 
 August. The only sure remedy is to dig the 
 borers out. The trunk may also be painted, 
 with lime wash containing Paris green at the 
 rate of 5 oz. to the gallon. 
 
 Maple Cotton or Woolly Scale — Body of in- 
 sect and mass of eggs are covered with a white, 
 cotton-like substance. Attacks soft maples, 
 also occasionally elms, chestnuts and lindens. 
 Spray with lime-sulphur wash in water or 
 whale-oil soap. 
 
 Mealy-hug — ^White, scale-like insect fre- 
 quently attacking plants under glass. Spray 
 with whale-oil soap or syringe with clear water 
 thrown in a hard stream. Dip small potted 
 plants in water heated to a temperature of 125'' 
 Fahrenheit. 
 
 Mite — Resembles red-spider but is lighter in 
 color. Feeds on under side of leaves, espe- 
 cially of greenhouse plants. Spray with kero- 
 sene emulsion, applying at frequent intervals 
 and, after an hour or two, wash off the spray. 
 
318 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 Also use fir-tree oil which is safer in the hands 
 of the amateur. 
 
 Oyster-shell Scale — Resembles oyster shell 
 in shape. Attacks willows, lilacs, ash, apples, 
 etc. Same remedies as those prescribed for 
 San Jose scale. 
 
 Red-spider — Small insects difficult to detect 
 
 San Jose Scale Oyster Shell Scale 
 
 before serious damage has been done and 
 foliage begins to blanch. Spray with clear 
 water applied with some force, or sulphur. 
 Kerosene emulsion is also effective. The mites 
 do not live in a damp atmosphere. 
 
 Rose Chafer or Bug — Brown beetle, also 
 known as rose-beetle, eating flowers, and ap- 
 
INSECTS AND DISEASES 319 
 
 IDearing in May and June. Easiest removed l)y 
 hand picking. Spray with arsenate of lead. 
 Hot water at a temperature of 125° Fahren- 
 heit is also effective. 
 
 Rose-leaf Hopper — A small whitish-green 
 bug, quickly flying or jumping whenever the 
 bushes are jarred. Appears in July. Sucks 
 the foliage. Spray with kerosene emulsion, 
 whale-oil soap or tobacco. Pyrethrum powder 
 blown on the leaves when damp is another 
 remedy. 
 
 Rose Scale — A white scale incrusting the 
 canes. Appears all the year. Spray with 
 kerosene emulsion in latter part of May and 
 remove badly infested canes. 
 
 Rose Slug — ^A slug-like larva that devours 
 the surface of the leaves, appears in June, July 
 and August. Spray with ammoniacal copper 
 carbonate once every eight or ten days. 
 
 San Jose Scale — Scale insect spreading rap- 
 idly where it gains a foothold. Circular, one- 
 sixteenth of an inch in diameter. Kerosene 
 emulsion, whale-oil soap and lime-sulphur wash 
 (the last in winter only). 
 
 Scurfy Scale — While common and widely dis- 
 tributed, this scale has seldom l)ecome numer- 
 ous enough to cause any material damage. 
 
320 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 Under favorable conditions it may become de- 
 structive, and wherever it seems to be multi- 
 plying it would be advisable to use tlie same 
 measures recommended for the San Jose scale. 
 Snails — Troublesome usually only in green- 
 houses. Trap them with pieces of turnip ; dust 
 lime about the plants. 
 
 
 Fall Web-Worni 
 
 tSeuify Scale 
 
 Tussock Moth — This troublesome insect is 
 usually periodical in its attacks on trees. The 
 moth winters in the egg state, and early in the 
 summer the young larvae hatch and at once 
 crawl to the foliage and begin to feed. The 
 eggs are laid by the female moth on the old co- 
 coons, and as these cocoons are frequently sit- 
 
INSECTS AND DISEASES 321 
 
 uated on houses and other o1)jeets away from 
 the trees the young can be kept from the foliage 
 by banding the trees with some sticky prepara- 
 tion which will keep them from crawling up 
 the trunk. In the winter the cocoons bearing 
 egg masses should be collected and burned so 
 as to destroy all the young that are present. 
 A favorite place for the situation of cocoons 
 is under the overlapping weather-boards on the 
 sides of houses. In summer, after the cater- 
 pillars make their appearance, they can be de- 
 stroyed by spraying the trees with Paris green 
 solution. [Douglass.] 
 
 Verbena Mite — See Mite. 
 
 Willoiv-ivorm — Long, black larva feeding on 
 leaves of willow, poplar and elm. Arsenite 
 sprays are remedies. 
 
 INSECTICIDES 
 
 The following mixtures are referred to in the 
 list of insects : 
 
 Arsenate of Lead — Four ounces to five gal- 
 lons of water. This insecticide can be used 
 with comparative safety on plants of delicate 
 foliage. 
 
 Paris Green — To ten gallons of water add 
 one ounce of Paris green and two ounces of 
 
322 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 freshly slaked stone lime. Keep well mixed 
 while applying the spray. 
 
 London Purple — Use in same manner as 
 Paris green. 
 
 Kerosene Emulsion — Dissolve one-half pound 
 of soap in one gallon of boiling water. Add 
 two gallons of kerosene and agitate or churn 
 violently for five or ten minutes. Dilute from 
 four to fifteen times before applying with the 
 spray. 
 
 Lime-supliur — This should be combined as 
 follows : 
 
 Lime 50, 5, or 1 pounds 
 
 Sulphur 50, 5, or 1 pounds 
 
 Salt 50, 5, or 1 pounds 
 
 Water 150, 15, or 3 gallons 
 
 Add enough water to the lime to slake it thor- 
 oughly and immediately add the sulphur. Boil 
 for an hour or so with only water enough to 
 keep the mass liquid until the solution becomes 
 a deep amber color. Have the salt dissolved 
 in water and add it to the boiling mass. After 
 it has all been mixed together boil for at least 
 an hour and then add water enough to make up 
 the one hundred and fifty gallons or the lesser 
 quantities, and spray it as soon as possible. It 
 is more efficient when used warm and some of 
 the failures with this wash are undoubtedly due 
 
INSECTS AND DISEASES 323 
 
 to the use of stale solutions and careless boil- 
 ing. [Douglass.] 
 
 Pyrethrum — Use dry, as a powder, or in sol- 
 ution in water, 1 ounce to 3 gallons. 
 
 Sulpliur — Flowers of sulphur may be ap- 
 plied in connection with other sprays or used 
 in dry form. When used in the former way, 
 add from one to two pounds to every fifty gal- 
 lons of spray. It may be applied also at the 
 rate of one ounce to one gallon of water. 
 
 Tobacco — Steep stems or leaves in hot water 
 in covered vessel and dilute three to five times 
 when applying. The tobacco extracts are the 
 best. 
 
 Whale-oil Soap — Dissolve two pounds in one 
 gallon hot water and dilute two to five times 
 before spraying. 
 
 PLANT DISEASES 
 
 The garden, even when the plantation is 
 small, will very likely be affected sooner or 
 later by some plant-disease. Soil conditions or 
 the introduction of affected stock may account 
 for the appearance of disease, but, to whatever 
 source it may owe its origin, immediate treat- 
 ment is necessary. There is no better fungi- 
 cide than the Bordeaux mixture, but as it 
 
324 Will) AND GARDEN 
 
 discolors foliage, flowers and fruit, on all orna- 
 mental plants where discoloration would be ob- 
 jectionable, ammoniacal carbonate of copper 
 should be employed. The following are the 
 chief diseases : 
 
 Anthracnose — Scab-like spots of grayish 
 brown color appearing on bases of leaves of 
 carnations. Attacks also beans, watermelon, 
 etc. Apply copper sprays, Bordeaux or sul- 
 phur and water. 
 
 Chrysanthemum Leaf -spot — Dark brown 
 spots first appear on leaves and increase in 
 size until the leaf withers. Remove all dis- 
 eased leaves and spray with ammoniacal car- 
 bonate of copper or Bordeaux. 
 
 Bamping-off — This is a term used by florists 
 to describe the decay of seedlings or cuttings 
 at a point near the surface of the soil in the 
 seed flat or pot or sand bed. It is believed 
 to be the result of fungi. Permitting fresh air 
 to enter by careful ventilation and preventing 
 crowding of the plantlets, dusting the plants 
 with sulphur and sifting hot clean sand on the 
 surface of the soil are the preventives and rem- 
 edies. 
 
 Hollyhock Rust — Attacks hollyhocks and 
 allied plants, appearing on the leaves in the 
 
INSECTS AND DISEASES 325 
 
 Work of the Catalpa Sphinx Moth 
 
326 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 form of light l)i'own patclies. Destroy affected 
 plants and apply Bordeaux liberally. 
 
 Leaf-hliglit — ^Tliis attacks and destroys only 
 portions of leaves, whereas the leaf-rust pro- 
 duces masses of spores on all the surface of 
 the leaves. Sometimes called "leaf-spot.'' 
 Attacks roses, maples, cherries, sycamores, etc. 
 Same remedy provided for leaf-rust. 
 
 Leaf-rust — Asters are mainly the victims of 
 this disease. The leaves are discolored by 
 orange-colored spots, usually underneath, and 
 the foliage shrivels. Spray with Bordeaux or 
 ammoniacal carbonate of copper. 
 
 Maple Leaf-spot — Silver, red and striped 
 maples are victims of this disease. The leaves 
 become spotted and ugly and the vigor of the 
 tree is impaired. Burn fallen leaves and when 
 the foliage is one-half expanded in spring begin 
 to spray with Bordeaux, and repeat at fre- 
 quent intervals until the disease is checked. 
 
 Mildew — ^White patches appearing on leaves 
 or other parts. The most destructive are 
 downy mildew of the lilac, rose mildew and 
 powdery mildew of the hawthorn, cherry and 
 plum. Spray with Bordeaux or ammoniacal 
 carbonate of copper. Dust on sulphur. 
 
 Pansy Rust — Brown or dark spots appear 
 
INSECTS AND DISEASES 327 
 
 on the leaves. Apply ammoniacal carbonate of 
 copper or Bordeaux. 
 
 Rose Leaf-hlight (black spots) — Makes its 
 appearance first in the form of small black 
 spots on the full-grown leaves but rapidly 
 spreads over the entire surface. Spray with 
 Bordeaux or ammoniacal carbonate of copper, 
 applied before leaves unfold. 
 
 Rust — Attacks carnations producing gray 
 blisters on the leaves, the spots eventually 
 bursting. Spray with Bordeaux. 
 
 Verbena Rust — Whitish, mildew-like disease 
 attacking the leaves and usually killing the 
 plants. Spray with sulphide of potassium 
 every four or five days. 
 
 FUNGICIDES 
 
 Sulphate of Potassium — Use at the rate of 
 one-fourth to one ounce in a gallon of water. 
 
 Ammoniacal Carbonate of Copper — Dissolve 
 one ounce of copper carbonate in one-half pint 
 of ammonia diluted with two quarts of water, 
 and dilute to ten gallons of water. 
 
 Bordeaux Mixture — In a wooden or earthen 
 vessel containing four to six gallons of water 
 dissolve six pounds of copper sulphate by sus- 
 pending it in a bag made of coarse cloth. When 
 
328 YAKD AND GARDEN 
 
 dissolved, dilute by adding enough water to 
 make twenty-five gallons. Slake four pounds 
 of lime — ^making sure it is not ' ' patent ' ' lime — 
 by covering with water and, when solution has 
 ^'cooled," add enough water to make twenty- 
 five gallons. Mix by pouring the two together. 
 Sulphur — Procure ^'flowers of sulphur." 
 Use either in dry state or at the rate of one 
 ounce in five gallons of water. 
 
CHAPTER XVI 
 
 THE INDOOR WINTER WINDOW GARDEN 
 
 When autumn frost puts an end to operations 
 in the outdoor garden, it need not by any means 
 deter the enthusiastic gardener from the pur- 
 suit and pleasure of his summer avocation. If 
 there is a window — even a sunless window 
 where only daylight penetrates — establish an 
 indoor winter garden. In seasons gone by, per- 
 haps the gardener has made the experiment 
 and only failure has resulted, but let him not be 
 discouraged on that account; let the failure 
 be a lesson, not an obstacle, borrow encourage- 
 ment from disaster and refuse to 1)e dismayed 
 by failure. For the fault, in nine cases out of 
 ten, was the gardener's. The plants selected 
 were not suitable for the exposure afforded by 
 the indoor garden, or else — as is often the case 
 — too late a beginning was made. Bull)s will 
 bloom, vines grow, plants produce their flowers 
 and foliage, but if these results are to be ob- 
 tained, the gardener must choose wisely and 
 early and tend his garden faithfully. 
 329 
 
330 YAED AND GARDEN 
 
 Paris Daisies {Clinjsautltcmum frutescens) 
 
THE WINDOW GARDEN 331 
 
 AN EARLY BEGINNING ADVISABLE 
 
 It is essential for liim to select carefully, for 
 plants differ radically in the treatment they re- 
 quire. A plant that requires sun will not thrive 
 without sun; a plant that requires for its de- 
 velopment a cold-house temperature will not 
 prosper in the close, hot, dry atmosphere of a 
 living-room. And it is essential for him to 
 make an early heginning because plants ma- 
 tured under the favorable conditions of hot- 
 house cultivation suffer a fatal check as a rule 
 when transferred from their congenial sur- 
 roundings to the less advantageous environment 
 of a residence window. Frequently, they fail 
 utterly to revive, bear no flowers, and assume 
 a ragged, sickly appearance that robs them of 
 all decorative value. 
 
 On the contrary, if the window-gardener 
 makes an early selection of plants, he obtains 
 young stock — which is cheaper — and, if this 
 suffers from the shock of transfer, usually it 
 will recover all of its original strength, accus- 
 tom itself to its new quarters and reward the 
 purchaser for his forethought with luxuriant 
 foliage and well-developed bloom. 
 
332 YAKD AND GAKDEN 
 
 LOCATION OF THE WINTER GARDEN 
 
 Begin the indoor garden-making with the se- 
 lection of the window where the plants are to 
 be grown. If it is a window with a south- 
 eastern outlook, the best has been chosen ; after 
 this, a window with a south aspect is to be pre- 
 ferred. But, lacking these, an eastern, west- 
 ern or even northern exposure may be selected 
 and, provided plants are obtained that are 
 adapted to the conditions prevailing, the last 
 may be made as effective in its way as the sun- 
 niest window in the southeastern corner of the 
 house. Set in place the shelves, brackets and 
 stands upon which the pots are to rest, secure 
 them firmly and provide a dish or pan to be 
 filled with water and kept on stove, radiator, or 
 register to maintain a fair degree of atmos- 
 pheric moisture. Procure flower pots of vari- 
 ous sizes — from three inches to eight — avoid- 
 ing the glazed, decorative ware, and a water 
 can and a supply of soil. 
 
 THE SOIL FOR WINDOW GARDENS 
 
 The amateur is likely to find this last his 
 most perplexing problem. What soil, he most 
 frequently inquires, shall be used for this plant? 
 
THE WINDOAV GARDEN 
 
 333 
 
 what for that? in what compost shall bulbous 
 l^lauts be grown and in what mixture will ferns 
 thrive? If he undertakes an investigation for 
 himself, it is likely that he will emerge from the 
 study all the more perplexed. The reason is 
 that there is a great deal of rubbish talked about 
 soils. If heed were paid to the lucubrations 
 
 Eoot Growth of Narcissus 
 
 Azalea liulica in Bloom 
 
 of many writers on floral topics, it might be sur- 
 mised that a special soil is required for every 
 plant. But, not only is this misleading and in- 
 correct, but the plain fact is that four-fifths of 
 the plants cultivated under glass, whether in 
 a greenhouse or in a window garden, would 
 thrive very well in one and the same compost. 
 
334 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 The point to be remembered is tliat the soil used 
 should be of good quality rather than assem- 
 bled in elaborate mixtures. Lay aside doubt 
 on the subject and obtain the following com- 
 posts : 
 
 1. Fibrous loam, three parts 
 Leaf mold, one part 
 Well-decayed manure, one part 
 Clean, sharp sand, one-sixth part 
 
 2. Fibrous loam, one part 
 Peat, two parts 
 
 Leaf mold, two parts 
 Sand, one-fourth part 
 
 These two composts might be designated 
 "general utility" mixtures. The first will pro- 
 vide a healthful rooting soil for most flowering 
 plants that can be grown by the amateur in an 
 ordinary window garden and the second will 
 provide a suitable mixture for ferns. It is well 
 to lay the foundation carefully by obtaining 
 good loam. Usually it is best and cheapest to 
 buy this of the nearest florist. He makes it — 
 and the amateur may do likewise if he has the 
 space, the time and the desire — by stacking 
 turfs, grass side down, in heaps, interspersing 
 old manure between the layers of sod, and per- 
 mitting the whole to remain at least six months 
 exposed to the weather. 
 
THE WINDOW GARDEN 335 
 
 POTTING 
 
 Potting is likely to prove another stumbling 
 block in the way of success. But if the be- 
 ginner will bear in mind the following simple 
 rules, he will not go astray : 
 
 New pots must be soaked in water two or 
 three hours before using and old pots must be 
 thoroughly cleaned before being refilled. 
 
 Provide ample drainage. Place over the hole 
 in the bottom of the pot a piece of l)roken crock, 
 hollow side downward and, upon this, overlap- 
 ping, place a layer of smaller pieces. The 
 larger and deeper the pot the more liberal 
 should be the quantity of drainage material — 
 a layer of drainage material one inch deep is 
 not too much in an eight-inch pot to insure the 
 health of the plant. 
 
 Pot all plants firmly — if the soil is loose, 
 proper watering is impossible. 
 
 Repot plants when the mass of roots sur- 
 rounds the ball of earth. Ascertain the root 
 condition by gently emptying the pot of its con- 
 tents. In repotting, shift to a pot two sizes 
 larger — that is, for instance, from a five-inch 
 pot to a seven-inch. A cramped plant will not 
 show its full beautv of foliasre and bloom. 
 
336 
 
 YAED AND GARDEN 
 
 WATERING 
 
 It would be a material help to the amateur^ — 
 and to the professional gardener, too- — if it were 
 possible to lay down fixed rnles for watering. 
 But, unfortunately, there are no such things 
 as established laws governing the supply of 
 
 Omamental-Foliaged Begonia [Bajonia Ear) 
 
 moisture. Water when the plants require it — 
 this is the only rule that can be cited. And 
 plants require water when the soil is dry enough 
 to become slightly powdery when rubbed be- 
 tween the thumb and finger. If, for any 
 reason, water is withheld longer, until, for in- 
 stance, the soil becomes so dry as to crack, set 
 
THE WINDOW GARDEN ;537 
 
 the plant, pot and all, in a vessel of water 
 and let it remain there until air bubbles cease 
 to rise. 
 
 The window-gardener who comes through a 
 whole winter without finding his plants attacked 
 by some insect pest is lucky, indeed. A ma- 
 jority will find, probably, that their plants are 
 more or less threatened by the aphis (green- 
 fly), mealy-bug, red-spider, scale or thrips. 
 Where they come from is a matter of small 
 moment; the important fact is that they are 
 there and must be removed. If the amateur 
 will employ the methods of extermination de- 
 tailed in the chapter on insect pests, he will 
 rid his garden of them as soon as they put in 
 an appearance. 
 
 FERTILIZING 
 
 The beginner, if he bears the various rules 
 in mind, should not find success difficult to at- 
 tain. There may be times, however, when his 
 plants seem sluggish and appeal for extra food. 
 But be sure that fertilizer is required before 
 it is applied. Then, in determining the ferti- 
 lizer to use, avoid patent preparations. Some 
 of them are good and some are absolutely 
 worthless and the amateur is as likely to obtain 
 
338 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 the latter as the former. The best way is to 
 prepare a liquid manure, using, if obtainable, 
 one-half pound of dried sheep manure to two 
 and one-half gallons of water, or a quarter 
 bushel of decayed cow manure to twelve gallons 
 of water. 
 
 i-'ulia:;L' i'laiil.s ,Suilable for a Window Garden 
 
 A chemical fertilizer may be made of the 
 following ingredients : — 
 
 Nitrate of soda, one and one-half ounces. 
 Phosphate of soda, one-half ounce. 
 Sulphate of potash, one ounce. 
 
 Mix thoroughly and pulverize and, whenever 
 required, dissolve one heaping tablespoonful of 
 the mixture in a gallon of hot water. When the 
 water has cooled, apply a teacupful of the so- 
 lution to a six-inch pot — less or more according 
 
THE WINDOW GARDEN 339 
 
 to the size of the pot. Soot from soft coal also 
 makes a good fertilizer. Mix at the rate of 
 one-half pint to ten gallons of water. 
 
 All these suggestions are practical if not al- 
 luring and, if we are to have success with an 
 indoor window garden, we must give considera- 
 tion to them as well as to the more esthetic qual- 
 ities which the plants themselves supply. The 
 latter depend upon the former, for no sickly 
 plant can be beautiful. However, we are done 
 with them and can turn now to a discussion of 
 what to raise in the indoor garden and how to 
 raise it. 
 
 SELECTION OF PLANTS 
 
 Begin with bulbs. These bloom most suc- 
 cessfully for the amateur and, by potting them 
 in quantity and selecting different varieties, 
 a succession of bloom may be maintained in the 
 indoor garden from Christmas to early spring. 
 Narcissi, tulips, hyacinths, crocus, scilla, free- 
 sias — these and many others may be had in 
 bloom to make every week gay with their colors 
 and sweet with their fragrance from mid-De- 
 cember to late March. 
 
 Bulbs should be potted early in the autumn. 
 All require practically the same treatment as 
 
340 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 far as the amateur is concerned. Immediately 
 after the potting process has been completed, 
 set the pots in a dark corner of the cellar where 
 the temperature will not rise above forty-five 
 degrees. Lacking such a place, bury the pots 
 in the ground outdoors, allowing six inches of 
 soil or sawdust to rest on top of the pots. On 
 this surface scatter litter, leaves, or straw to 
 prevent freezing, which, while it would do no 
 harm to the bulbs, would make their resurrec- 
 tion somewhat difficult when the time is at hand 
 for bringing the pots into the house. 
 
 NARCISSI 
 
 With a half-dozen varieties of Narcissus, 
 potted early in September, or even in August, 
 a succession may be maintained which will in- 
 sure the gardener attractive bloom throughout 
 the greater part of the winter. Use five- or six- 
 inch i3ots and plant from three to five bulbs in 
 each pot. One narcissus of the trumpet variety 
 may be successfully flowered in a four-inch pot, 
 but to bring it to perfection requires more time 
 and attention than the flowering of three or 
 four of the same variety in a six-inch pot. Pro- 
 vide ample drainage and when the bulbs are 
 planted, water carefully and, finally, set them 
 
THE WINDOW GAEDEN 341 
 
 Paper \Yhite Narcissus 
 
342 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 either in the cellar or bury them in the ground. 
 Here they should remain until they have formed 
 a heavy system of roots and a top growth of 
 three or four inches. At this stage they may 
 be brought to the light, but not too suddenly, 
 and submitted to a warmer temperature. 
 Water carefully, using a little weak manure or 
 commercial fertilizer in solution once a week. 
 To maintain the succession, bring the pots to 
 the light at intervals of a week apart. 
 
 For flowers in December and January, ob- 
 tain the Paper White, Golden Spur, Henry Irv- 
 ing, Victoria, Princeps, Sir Watkin, Tortuosus 
 and the double Van Sion ; for bloom in January 
 and February, plant the Emperor, Empress, 
 Horsefieldi, Albicans and Stella superba, and 
 for bloom in February and March depend on the 
 Glory of Leiden, Mme. Plemp, Mrs. Camm, 
 Mme. de Graaff, Barrii conspicuus, poeticus or- 
 natus and orange and sulphur Phoenix. The 
 rules to bear in mind are : 
 
 1. Early potting. 
 
 2. Allow sufficient time for rooting — twelve 
 weeks for the hardy varieties and at least six 
 weeks for the tender sorts. 
 
 3. Careful watering when the buds are de- 
 veloping. 
 
THE WINDOW GARDEN 343 
 
 HYACINTHS 
 
 Very few window-gardeners would care to be 
 without the hyacinth. Its culture is compara- 
 tively simple and, for the attention it demands, 
 its fragrant blossom is more than ample re- 
 ward. Select sound bulbs, solid and without 
 offsets or protuberances and possessing only 
 one crown. Apply the same rules to their se- 
 lection as would be applied in choosing a fine 
 onion and obtain the bulbs as early in the au- 
 tumn as possible. Pot up at once — especially 
 the Roman hyacinths— providing plenty of 
 drainage and then treat the bulbs as advised 
 for narcissi. Use five-inch pots, and plant 
 one bulb to a pot, leaving at least a fifth of 
 the bulb showing above the surface of the 
 soil. 
 
 Some good single hyacinths for blooming in 
 pots are: 
 
 Red, rose and pink: Robert Steiger, Gen- 
 eral Pelissier, Gertrude, Gigantea, Roi des 
 Beiges and Lord Macaulay. 
 
 White and blush white: La Grandesse, Gran- 
 deur a Mer\^eille, Mont Blanc, Paix de I'Europe 
 and Baroness van Thuyll. 
 
 Dark and light blue: Baron van Thuyll, 
 
344 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 Charles Dickens, Czar Peter, King of the Blues, 
 Leonidas and Regulus. 
 
 Roman hyacinths produce small single white, 
 pink or blue flowers. They bloom profusely, 
 each bulb throwing from three to six spikes, are 
 cheap and are easiest of all the hyacinths to 
 cultivate in the amateur's hands. The white 
 variety is the earliest and, everything con- 
 sidered, the most satisfactory and beautiful. 
 Plant four or five bulbs in a five-inch pot, al- 
 lowing the crowns to remain uncovered. They 
 can be had without difficulty for Christmas 
 bloom. 
 
 The Dutch hyacinths may also be brought 
 to flower in water. Glass vases, especially de- 
 signed for the purpose, are to be had from deal- 
 ers in seeds and bulbs. Milk bottles, however, 
 may be substituted and the result will be quite 
 as satisfactory. The vessel should be filled 
 with water until the water just reaches the base 
 of the bulb when it has been set in position in 
 the cup of the vase or in the mouth of the bottle. 
 Drop a lump or two of charcoal in the water to 
 keep it sweet, set the vessels away in a dark 
 closet or in the cellar where the}^ are to remain 
 until heavy growths of roots form. As the 
 water evaporates, add to it from time to time. 
 
THE WINDOW GAKDEN 345 
 
346 lYAED AND GARDEN 
 
 TULIPS 
 
 Tulips differ very little in point of culture 
 from hyacinths. Instead of planting only one 
 bulb to a four- or five-inch pot, however, from 
 three to six may be set and the bulbs may be 
 planted more deeply — but with never more than 
 half an inch of soil above them. Those tulips 
 earliest to bloom are included in the following 
 list: 
 
 Singles : Due Van Thol in varieties of blush, 
 scarlet, rose, yellow and white ; Artus, red ; Ca- 
 nary Bird, yellow; Royal Standard, crimson 
 and white; Vermilion Brilliant, scarlet; Keiz- 
 erkroon, red and gold, and Pottebakker in va- 
 rieties of white, yellow and scarlet. 
 
 Doubles: Golden King, yellow; Gloria So- 
 ils, scarlet and yellow; La Candeur, white, and 
 Imperator Rubrorum, brilliant scarlet. 
 
 OTHER BULBS 
 
 Bulbs of the Easter lily {Lilium Harrisii) 
 may be grown successfully when afforded the 
 same treatment as narcissi, hyacinths and tu- 
 lips, but a higher temperature than these lat- 
 ter require suit it best when it is making root 
 growth. It is not by any means certain to 
 
THE WINDOW GARDEN 3J:7 
 
 flower for the amateur and should not be at- 
 tempted until exjoerience has l^een gained. 
 
 Freesias may be potted, six or seven in a 
 five-inch pot, and without the preliminary 
 
 Freesias in bloom 
 
 plunging or season in the cellar, may be started 
 into growth in light at once. 
 
 The crocus and snowdrop and other bulbs 
 of similar size may be planted in pots and 
 treated like hyacinths. Most of them are so 
 
348 YARD AND GAEDEN 
 
 small that a dozen can be planted in a six-inch 
 pot. They require a longer period for the de- 
 velopment of their flowers than hyacinths and 
 tulips and, on this account, should be depended 
 on for later bloom. 
 
 Chinese sacred lilies are favorite bulbs for 
 window gardens. They bear white and yellow 
 flowers, six or seven to a stem and an inch and 
 a half in diameter. The popular method of cul- 
 tivation is in bowls of water, the bowls being 
 four or ^\e inches deep and the bulbs set in 
 pebbles and weighted down by pebl)les. The 
 water should never reach more than half-way 
 up the sides of the bulbs. Set the dish in a dark 
 closet for a week or fortnight to encourage root 
 growth. Often they can be had in bloom in 
 six weeks. 
 
 FLOWERING AND FOLIAGE PLANTS 
 
 The bulbs, of course, do not exhaust by any 
 means the plants that may be grown in the in- 
 door winter garden. Most of the plants so 
 grown belong to the groups which florists cul- 
 tivate in glass houses where the temperature 
 is either ^^cool" or "medium." The former 
 demands a night temperature of fifty degrees 
 and the latter of sixty degrees. A variation 
 
THE WINDOW GARDEN 349 
 
350 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 of five degrees between these temperatures 
 will cause no injurious effects and a regular 
 increase in daytime of ten or fifteen degrees 
 is considered proper — even higher when the day 
 is bright and sunny. 
 
 In selecting plants for the indoor garden, the 
 amateur should first learn what temperature 
 
 Geraniums in Bloom Indoors in Mid-Winter 
 
 his garden registers at night. If it falls to 
 fifty degrees (cool house temperature) he 
 should select from the following list : 
 
 Climbing plants : Senecio or parlor ivy, Eng- 
 lish ivy, lygodium or '' climbing fern'' and mau- 
 raudia. 
 
 Flow^ering plants : Azaleas, chrysanthemums, 
 
THE WINDOW GAKDEN 351 
 
 geraniums, Chinese primroses, Paris daisies or 
 iMarguerites, camellias, cinerarias, violets, cy- 
 clamens, ardisias, carnations and sweet alyssum. 
 
 Foliage plants: Palms, auracaria, eunony- 
 mus, aucuba and pandanus. 
 
 If the temperature is sixty degrees at night, 
 the following list may be used: 
 
 Climbing plants : Asparagus in variety, Smi- 
 lax, Cohoea scandens, Madeira vine, Senecio 
 mikanioides, Japanese hop and those also in- 
 cluded in the list for the ^'cool" temperature. 
 
 Flowering plants: Fuchsia, Mahernia odor- 
 ata, lobelia, mesembryanthemum, abutilons, 
 browallias, begonias, petunias, bouvardias, he- 
 liotropes, Chinese hibiscus, swainsonia, gerani- 
 ums, cupheas and Richardias. 
 
 Foliage plants: Dracaena in variety, palms, 
 Farfugium grande, Cycas revohita, ferns, arau- 
 caria, pandanus, Ficus elastica, Grevillea ro- 
 hiista, Pilea arhorea, vincas, tradescantia, 
 Kenilworth ivy, Festuca glauca and Selagin- 
 ella denticidata, 
 
 PLANTS FOR SHADED WINDOWS 
 But, even with these lists l)efore him, the 
 amateur can not make a selection until he pays 
 heed to the amount of sunlight admitted through 
 
352 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 the window where his garden is to be estab- 
 lished. The sunny selection is, of course, the 
 best; here the flowering plants will prosper 
 and bloom. Unfortunately, however, windows 
 available for the purpose do not always face 
 the south and occasionally neighboring build- 
 ings cast a deep shadow over the only exposure 
 the gardener can command. He must select 
 plants, therefore, which will thrive in half shade 
 or whole shade. 
 
 In such situations, provided there be good 
 light if no direct sunshine, abutilons will do 
 well and healthy plants of these are scarcely 
 ever without bloom. Begonias also thrive and, 
 in their various forms, present so many at- 
 tractions that a garden composed of these alone 
 would be worth while. Two good varieties are 
 the Bismarck and ricinifolia. Primulas do 
 best in a partly shaded window and a dozen 
 pots of the obconica hybrids would make a 
 most interesting display. Fuchsias, swainsonia, 
 ferns, palms and, in fact, nearly all foliage 
 plants with the exception of the highly colored 
 varieties do well in semi-shaded or sunless win- 
 dows. 
 
 Of the foliage division, no more graceful 
 plants are to l)e found than the palms. They 
 
THE WINDOW GARDEN 353 
 
 Tender Hydrangea {Hydranc/ea hortoisis, var. Otaksa) 
 
354 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 may l)e grown in a living- or drawing-room witli 
 more satisfaction than many other plants of 
 value for their foliage alone. They are, how- 
 ever, slow-growing and, on this account, should 
 never be over-potted. Many amateurs invite 
 disaster to their palms by failing to observe 
 
 Lace Fern ( Cheilanthes gracilUma ) 
 
 this fact. Repotting is unnecessary until the 
 mass of roots fills the soil and even then the 
 shift should be to a pot only one size larger. 
 The best varieties for home culture are the 
 Arecas, Kentias and Latanias. 
 
 The pandanus, or '^ screw pine," is also well 
 adapted to house culture and is remarkably 
 ornamental. It prospers even when removed 
 
THE WINDOW GARDEN 
 
 355 
 
356 YARD AND GAEDEN 
 
 from the window and set in a shaded corner of 
 the room. The general cultural treatment it 
 requires is similar to that prescribed for the 
 palms. Both thrive best in a moist soil but 
 the pots should be liberally provided with drain- 
 age for both are injured when water stands 
 at their roots. 
 
 FERNS FOR INDOOR GARDENS 
 
 The best ferns for pot culture indoors in win- 
 ter are: 
 
 Adiantum cuneatum (maidenhair fern) 
 
 Asplenium platyneiiron (ebony spleenwort) 
 
 Asplenium Tricliomanes (maidenhair spleenwort) 
 
 Cyrtomium falcatum (holly fern) 
 
 Lygodium Japonicum (climbing fern) 
 
 Nephrolepis exaltata, var. Bostoniensis (Boston fern) 
 
 Nephrolepis exaltata, var. Scottii (Scott fern) 
 
 Nephrolepis exaltata, var. Piersonii (Pierson fern) 
 
 Nephrolepis cordata, var. compaeta (kidney or sword fern) 
 
 In the culture of ferns indoors, clean foliage 
 is a first requisite. The fronds should be 
 showered frequently; if no other way is con- 
 venient, remove them to bath-tub or sink and 
 there spray them thoroughly. The water 
 should be of the same temperature as the room 
 in which they are grown. Scale is a trouble- 
 some pest and is best overcome by scraping or 
 rubbing it off with a brush or rag dipped in 
 whale-oil soap-suds or kerosene emulsion. 
 G-reen aphis is killed by nicotine. 
 
CHAPTER XVII 
 
 A CHAPTER OF SPECIALTIES 
 
 As a rule, amateurs in gardening no sooner 
 make a beginning in planting before they de- 
 cide that a roseless garden is no garden at all. 
 They can not be greatly blamed for rushing to 
 this conclusion, still they might bear in mind 
 the fact that some of the most effective orna- 
 mental gardening effects of which this country 
 affords examples have been attained without 
 the use of a single rose-bush. 
 
 ROSE CULTURE 
 
 If, however, the beginner must have roses — 
 and they are not without ornamental value in 
 spite of all that has been said of them to the 
 contrary — let him plant them in a situation that 
 is somewhat sheltered from the biting winds 
 of winter, yet open to the sun in summer, free 
 from roots of trees and unshaded by overhang- 
 ing branches. If no situation offers that is 
 without shade, select roses of dark-red color — 
 357 
 
358 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 shade does them the least injury. Avoid low 
 ground and if a deep loam is not already on 
 the site chosen, provide it and make sure that 
 it is earth which has never before been used 
 for rose growing. Remember that roses dis- 
 dain wet ground and insist upon having dry 
 feet ; make sure accordingly that the site is well 
 drained. 
 
 Roses, on the whole, do best when planted in 
 the spring. The hybrid perpetual s and the Ru- 
 gosas may be planted in the autumn with com- 
 parative safety, but even these would do 
 better if set out in the spring, as soon as the 
 ground can be worked. Avoid exposure of the 
 roots of the plants to sun or wind while plant- 
 ing, and select, if possible, a dry, but cloudy 
 day. 
 
 There is much difference of opinion as to the 
 relative value of roses on their own roots or 
 on Manetti or brier roots. By those who favor 
 the latter, it is admitted that many of the sum- 
 mer-growing varieties do best on their own 
 roots and, whenever this is the case, it is best 
 to select stock which is so grown. In any 
 event, obtain stock that is grown on brier roots 
 rather than upon the roots of the Manetti. It 
 is easy to detect a sucker should one arise from 
 
SPECIALTIES 
 
 359 
 
 Ivosc — l^ciieiiil Jacqueminot 
 
360 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 the wild stock, for the brier leaf has several 
 leaflets instead of five, which the garden roses 
 possess. When suckers develop — which is not 
 often if the planting has been carefully done — 
 remove them at once at the point of juncture 
 with the root. If this can not be done without 
 great disturbance to the plant, remove the 
 growth at the lowest point possible. 
 
 Roses should be protected by a mulch in win- 
 ter and by a lighter mulch in summer. For 
 the latter, use well-rotted cow manure, with the 
 double object in view of enriching the soil and 
 affording protection from the sun. The protec- 
 tion, however, should be first considered and 
 the surplus of the mulch employed for this pur- 
 pose should be removed in the autumn before 
 the winter covering is applied. It is safest to 
 protect all roses in winter, but if any are to be 
 neglected, let them be the Rugosas, Hybrid Per- 
 petuals and Wichuraianas. For the rest — 
 and for these wherever possible — apply a three- 
 inch covering of rough, but old manure. In the 
 more Northern sections, a heavier protection is 
 required and this is not sufficient even where 
 the winters are not very severe for the tender 
 teas. These should be protected by setting 
 bottomless and topless boxes over the jDlants, 
 
SPECIALTIES 361 
 
 or setting around them chicken-wire frames, 
 and filling the enclosures with leaves or straw. 
 The best fertilizers for roses are decayed 
 cow manure, hog, sheep or chicken manures 
 sparingly applied an-d old horse manure. Com- 
 mercial fertilizers may be used either alone or 
 to supplement the natural manures. Ground 
 bone is the best, but nitrate of soda, applied at 
 the rate of about a teaspoouful to a plant, is 
 useful as a stimulant early in the season. It 
 should be followed, however, by more substan- 
 tial fertilizers later on. The Reverend A. Fos- 
 ter-Melliar, an expert rose-grower and writer 
 on the subject, recommends the following espe- 
 cially prepared fertilizer: 
 
 Superphosphate of lime 12 parts 
 
 Nitrate of potash 10 parts 
 
 Sulphate of magnesia 2 parts 
 
 Sulphate of lime 8 parts 
 
 Sulphate of iron 1 part 
 
 His advice is to apply this mixture in March 
 at the rate of one-quarter pound to each square 
 yard. 
 
 Eoses should be pruned in early March. It 
 is an error to prune them, as some persons do, 
 in the autumn. Use the shears on the hardy 
 roses, both the climbers and the buslies, by 
 March fifteenth if the season is of average 
 
362 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 weather. Prune the tender varieties in April, 
 completing the process — in an average season 
 — by the middle of the month. In sections 
 where the winters are longer, however, the 
 operation should be postponed until it is entirely 
 safe to remove the winter mulch. Cut out all 
 dead wood aiid weak shoots, the latter unspar- 
 ingly, but do not follow blindly the advice to 
 cut liberally where the wood is healthy, strong 
 and vigorous. Too severe pruning is often 
 as injurious as too little. If large blooms are 
 wanted, the pruning should be more severe 
 than where mass effects are desired. Cut the 
 canes off an inch above an outside bud. The 
 cane which follows will then grow outward and 
 not inward as it would do were an inside bud se- 
 lected and the cut made above it. This sugges- 
 tion will i3rove of value to those who have had 
 difficulty in training climbers successfully. 
 
 The following varieties, made up from Doctor 
 Robert Huey's excellent list, will be found the 
 most satisfactory: 
 
 HARDY PERPETUALS 
 
 White Baroness, white Paul Neyron, pink 
 
 Frau Karl Driischki, white Caroline d'Arden, pink 
 
 Mabel JNIorrison, white Duke of Edinburgh, crimson 
 
 Margaret Dickson, white Captain Hayward, crimson 
 
 Baroness Rothschild, pink General Jacqueminot, crimson 
 
 Her Majesty, pink Prince Arthur, crimson 
 
SPECIALTIES 363 
 
 TKELUS KOSES 
 
 Gardenia Dorothy Perkins 
 
 Reine Marie Henriette Crimson Rambler 
 
 Rosea Setigera Paul's Carmine Pillar 
 
 Queen Alexandra 
 
 IIYBKID TEAS 
 
 Antoine Rivoire Killarney 
 
 Alice Grahame Liberty 
 
 Caroline Testout Mme. Abel Chatenay 
 
 Clara Watson M. Bunel 
 
 Ellen Wilmot Souv. de President Carnot 
 
 Mr. Leonard Barron, in his numerous arti- 
 cles, has performed a great service for the rose- 
 grower who must raise his flowers in the midst 
 of uncongenial surroundings in a city. For 
 tlie gardener who has to contend with smoke 
 from soft coal and even with unsatisfactory 
 conditions of sun, his list, which follows, is ex- 
 cellent : 
 
 HYBRID PERPETUALS 
 
 Baron de Bonstetten, very dark red 
 
 Charles Dickens, rose color, large 
 
 Dr. Andry, dark bright red 
 
 Dupuy Jamain, brilliant cerise 
 
 General Jacqueminot, dark bright red 
 
 Ulrich Brunner, cherry red 
 
 John Hopper, lilac-rose with crimson center 
 
 La France, silvery pink 
 
 Mme. Gabriel Luizet, pink 
 
 Magna Charta, bright pink, suffused carmine 
 
 Paul Neyron, pink — the largest of all roses 
 
 BOURBONS 
 
 Boule de Neige, white 
 
 Mme. S. Cochet, rose, edged white 
 
 Mme, I. Pereire, rosy carmine 
 
 Queen of Bedders, deep bright c'-im^nn 
 
364 YAED AND GARDEN 
 
 TEAS a:>^d noisettes 
 Aimee Vibert (N.), white, clusters 
 Reine Marie Henriette ( T. ) , cherry red 
 Gloire de Dijon (T.), yellow 
 Homer (T.), blush rose and salmon, variable 
 
 CLIMBERS 
 
 Crimson Rambler, crimson 
 
 R. Wichuraiana, .white, single 
 
 Also selections of the Rambler-Wichuraiana hybrids 
 
 Where rose>s are wanted only for shrubberies, 
 or where the flowers are of secondary impor- 
 tance, the following will be found to suit the 
 purpose admirably : 
 
 Penzance briers Rosa blanda 
 
 Rosa rugosa, Rosa lueida 
 
 Rosa rubiginosa Rosa nitida 
 
 HARDY FERNS 
 
 Many ferns, all hardy, demand so little in the 
 way of special soil and situation that they can 
 be grown without difficulty by the beginner. 
 Planted, for instance, between the foundation 
 walls of a house and the channel worn by water 
 dripping from overhanging eaves, they make a 
 pleasing border, thriving where nothing else 
 would succeed half so well. Here they have 
 what they most enjoy — a cool, damp soil and 
 shade. It must not ])e understood from this, 
 however, that ferns will continue vigorous in 
 ground that is undrained. On the contrary, 
 
SPECIALTIES 
 
 365 
 
366 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 they will not do well where the water remains 
 about their roots. But if they are given a damp 
 atmosphere and, preferably, an eastern expo-- 
 sure, the majority of the native ferns will do 
 exceedingly well. 
 
 So far as soil is concerned, while good woods 
 earth is best, most of the common ferns are less 
 exacting in this respect than one would im- 
 
 Ostricli Ferns in Narrow Border 
 
 agine. If the soil is deep and fairly rich, por- 
 ous and cool, ferns may be planted without much 
 fear of the results. The addition of leaf -mold 
 and some rough peat would make the compost 
 all the better, but, with some varieties, this is 
 not necessary. 
 
 The following list contains the ferns that are 
 most easily grown and which the beginner will 
 find easily established: 
 
SPECIALTIES 367 
 
 Adiaiitiim pedatiini, Maiden-liair fern 
 
 Aspleniiiin Filix-faMiiiiia, Lady foiii 
 
 Aspleniuni platyneuron, Ebony ssploonwort 
 
 Caniptosoiiis rliizopliylhis, Walking fern 
 
 Cheilanthes gracillinia, Lace fern 
 
 Dicksonia pnnctilobnla, Hay-scented or gossamer fern 
 
 Dryopteris Goldieana, Goldie's fern 
 
 Dryopteris marginalis, Evergreen wood fern 
 
 Dryopteris Noveboracensis, New York fern 
 
 Dryopteris spinulosa, Shield fern 
 
 Lygodium palmatnni, Climbing, or Hartford fern 
 
 Onoclea sensibilis, Sensitive fern 
 
 Onoclea Struthiopteris, Ostrich fern 
 
 Osmunda cinnamomea, Cinnamon fern 
 
 Osnnmda Claytoniana, Clayton's fern 
 
 Osmunda regalis, Royal fern 
 
 Polypodium vulgare, Common polypody 
 
 Polystiehum acrostichoides, Christmas fern 
 
 Pteris aquilina, Bracken 
 
 PEONIES 
 
 No flower is richer in beauty than the her- 
 baceous Peony and none, considering wealth of 
 bloom and glorious color, is more easily raised 
 by the amateur. It is one of the hardiest and 
 healthiest plants in cultivation and only occa- 
 sionally is it attacked by disease. Given a 
 deep, rich soil in which to root, it will thrive 
 for years, increasing, if undisturbed, season af- 
 ter season, and producing its magnificent l)loom 
 even when sadly neglected. In color, it covers 
 a wide range and a large plantation of it in 
 flower is unrivaled in beauty. Its foliage, 
 moreover, is attractive throughout the season 
 and forms a background of green against which 
 
368 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 a display of later-blooming flowers is always ef- 
 fective. 
 
 Soil for Peonies should contain no fresh ma- 
 nure. All fertilizer put into the earth where 
 they are to be established should be at least a 
 year old and it would be better were this in- 
 corporated with the soil several months before 
 the roots are planted. Dig deeply — two feet is 
 none too much — and work the soil until it is 
 finely pulverized. Look carefully to drainage 
 and, after setting out the roots, mulch thickly 
 with three or four inches of coarse manure, 
 spading this in before growth starts in the fol- 
 lowing spring. Peonies should be planted in 
 September, and if quick effects are wanted, un- 
 divided clumps should be obtained. Single 
 roots, however, are cheaper, and in a season or 
 two, make a very satisfactory display. In or- 
 dering roots, do not be insistent on the number 
 of ''eyes," for often the purchaser in designat- 
 ing that the roots he orders are to show no 
 fewer than three ''eyes," sacrifices vigor and 
 quality for quantity. 
 
 Do not expect much bloom the first season 
 after planting. Peonies take time in establish- 
 ing themselves and not infrequently fail to 
 bloom for two years after they are set out. Or, 
 
SPECIALTIES 
 
 369 
 
 Double Peonv 
 
370 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 if of a variety tliat more quickly accustoms it- 
 self to new surroundings, they may bear bloom 
 the first season, but these will never be a fair 
 .sample of what the plant can do. Double Peo- 
 nies, under such circumstances, may bear only 
 single flowers, and this fact sometimes leads to 
 disappointment on the part of the purchaser 
 who fancies that the nurseryman has not dealt 
 fairly by him. Before he voices his suspicion, 
 it would be better were he to take into consid- 
 eration the short time the plant has been in his 
 garden and postpone his complaint until the 
 following season when, in all likelihood, the 
 flowers will be as double as they were repre- 
 sented to be. 
 
 Some Peonies, however, are not profuse 
 bloomers. Constitutionally they are not and 
 from such plants large quantities of bloom will 
 never be obtained. It is also a fact that some 
 Peonies are prolific bloomers in some sections 
 of the country and in other sections l)loom very 
 little. It is impossible, of course, to say with 
 any degree of certainty what varieties perform 
 in this unsatisfactory manner, but Charle- 
 magne, for instance, blooms strongly in Roch- 
 ester, New York, and weakly in New England. 
 Giganthea does well in the East, but in the West 
 
SPECIALTIES 
 
 371 
 
 bears few flowers. It is true, too, that both 
 quality and quantity of bloom vary from season 
 to season, so far as can be determined, for no 
 apparent reason. Weather conditions may be 
 entirely favorable and still the flowers be lim- 
 ited and of inferior quality while, another year, 
 
 Single Peonies 
 
 weather conditions may be unfavorable and the 
 flowers will be large and numerous. 
 
 A few varieties are especially sensitive ; they 
 can not endure storms or frosts of early spring 
 and usually the only return they make for nurs- 
 ing and coddling is to produce buds that blight 
 before they expand. This is especially true of 
 many varieties imported from England. They 
 
372 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 can not, it seems, adapt themselves to the cli- 
 matic conditions of their new home. 
 
 There is little pleasure in fostering one of 
 these indolent or sensitive varieties and the 
 purchaser should exercise care in his selection 
 to make sure that he obtains only the hardiest 
 and most visrorous and those that are surest 
 
 Flower of the Tree Peony 
 
 and most profuse in bloom. The following list 
 will assist the beginner in the matter of selec- 
 tion, but it must be understood that Peony no- 
 menclature is so sadly mixed at this time that 
 very little dependence can be placed upon the 
 names : 
 
SPECIALTIES 373 
 
 Achille, delicate pink 
 
 Agida, rosy violet 
 
 Alexander Dunuis, brilliant pink 
 
 Aniazone, creamy white, yellowish center 
 
 Andre Laures, violet red 
 
 Auguste Lenionier, deep, dark red 
 
 Baroness Schroeder, delicate pink, touched with gold in 
 
 center 
 Bell Hough, light purplish crimson 
 Bertha, bright crimson 
 
 Belle Chatelaine, delicate pink, carmine center 
 Cameron, deep purplish red 
 
 Carnea Flora Plena, delicate pink, carnline center 
 Charles Verdier, carmine 
 Comte de Osmont, fine white 
 Defiance, bright crimson 
 
 Duchesse de Nemours, clear pink, center of lilac tints 
 Duchesse d'Orleans, deejj pink 
 Edouard Andre, crimson, with yellow stamens 
 Excelsior, dark crimson 
 
 Festiva Maxima, the best white, a superb flower 
 Floral Treasure, pink, fragrant, one of the best and hardiest 
 
 of flowers 
 Flambeau, cherry petals with white tips, tufted bloom 
 General Grant, red 
 
 Grandiflora Carnea Plena, clear, light pink, shaded lilac 
 Golden Harvest, outer petals pink, inner golden, a splendid 
 
 flower 
 Golden Wedding, pure yellow — the only pure yellow 
 Humei, pink 
 La Coquette, bright rose 
 La Fiance, creamy white, yellowish center 
 L'Esperence, white, touched with pink 
 Marie Lemoine, sulphur white, shaded pink 
 Nigra, dark crimson 
 Pomponia, pinkish white 
 Queen Victoria, white 
 
 Richardson's Rubra Superba, splendid crimson 
 Sarah Bernhardt, pink, salmon center 
 The Nymph, fragrant, curious flower, white, tipped with 
 
 carmine 
 Victoria Tricolor, pink, sulphur and flesh 
 Zoe Calot, soft pink 
 
374 YARD AND QARDEN 
 
 FOR CUT FLOWERS 
 
 Many gardeners desire varieties of Peonies 
 that serve not only a decorative purpose, but 
 whicli are also useful as cut flowers. The fol- 
 lowing list contains tlie best for this dual pur- 
 pose: 
 
 White: Festiva Maxima, Queen Victoria, M. 
 Dupont, Couronne d'Or, Madame Crousse, La 
 Tulipe, Madame de Verneville, Marie Lemoine, 
 Duchesse de Nemours. 
 
 Pink: Beaute Francaise, Delicatissima, Liv- 
 ingstone, Princess Beatrice, M. Jules Elie, Edu- 
 lis Superba, Alexandrina. 
 
 Red: Adolph Rosseau, Souvenir de 1 'Exposi- 
 tion Universelle, Modeste Guerin, Delachei, 
 Marechal de MacMahon, M. Krelage, Richard- 
 son's Rubra Superba, Felix Crousse. 
 
 PERENNIAL PHLOX 
 
 A yard or garden, large or small, in which 
 many Phloxes are grown is always a place gay 
 with flowers from mid-June to the autumn days 
 of frost. Like the peony, the Phlox is easily 
 grown, rewarding the gardener with a wealth 
 of bloom altogether out of proportion to the 
 few demands it makes upon his time and labor. 
 
SPECIALTIES 
 
 375 
 
 Hardy Phlox [Phlox paniculaia) 
 
376 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 The suffruticosa group is the first to bloom, but 
 it is the deciissata {paniculata) group, later in 
 flowering, that produces the brightest and 
 clearest blossoms. Both divisions will grow 
 either in sun or shade, but they prefer, on the 
 whole, a situation in partial shade. They do 
 best in a deep, rich loam, enriched with well- 
 rotted cow manure, and spaded to a depth of 
 at least two feet. 
 
 The plants should be set out so that the crown 
 is about two inches below the surface of the soil 
 and the earth must be well firmed about the 
 roots! The best season for planting is from the 
 first of October to the last of the month, but 
 spring planting is fairly successful. After 
 planting, mulch before the ground freezes 
 deeply with a covering of leaves, straw or lit- 
 ter to a depth of four inches. If the plants are 
 set out in spring, a lighter mulch should be ap- 
 plied to shade the roots from the sun. 
 
 If a profusion of bloom is wanted, pinch back 
 the stalks of the taller varieties when they have 
 attained a height of twelve or fifteen inches and 
 the dwarf sorts when they have attained half 
 that height. They will then break into two or 
 four secondary stalks and upon these will be 
 borne the clusters of bloom. The Phlox is un- 
 
SPECIALTIES 
 
 377 
 
 commonly free from insect enemies and diseases, 
 though occasionally it is attacked by red-spider 
 or cut-worms. Spraying with a hard stream of 
 clear water will kill the former and wood ashes 
 sprinkled lightly about the roots will control 
 the latter. 
 
 The following list* includes the best both in 
 point of size and color of bloom and in hardi- 
 ness and vigor of plant : 
 
 Wild Sweet William {PJilox divaricata) 
 
 PHLOX SUFFRUTICOSA 
 
 Dr. Hornby, white, lilac tinted 
 Indian Chief, magenta, crimson eye 
 Lady Musgrove, white, striped magenta 
 Leaman, rosy lilac 
 
 Ringleader, light magenta with red eye 
 Snowdon, pure white 
 
 * Little dependence can be phiced in Phlox nomenclature. 
 
378 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 DWAKF SPECIES 
 
 Amoena, pinkish purple, very early and very dwarf 
 
 Divaricata, pinkisli blue, very early 
 
 Reptans, purplish violet 
 
 Stellaria, whitish blue 
 
 Subulata, pinkish purple, blooms in April and May 
 
 Subulata, var. Alba, white 
 
 PHLOX PANICULATA 
 
 Amazone, the finest white 
 
 Andreas Hoffer, pure white 
 
 Bouquet de Fleurs, white with deep rose eye 
 
 Bridesmaid, white, with a large crimson eye 
 
 Champs-Elysees, rich purplish crimson 
 
 Coquelicot, scarlet, with dark carmine eye 
 
 Cross of Honor, lilac, margined with white 
 
 Eclaireur, purplish crimson, with bright shades 
 
 Esclarmonde, lilac, mottled with white, witli a deep rose eye 
 
 Eugene Danzanvillier, lilac, with white edge and center 
 
 Jeanne d'Arc, white, large and late-flowering 
 
 Jocelyn, salmon 
 
 Jules Finger, white with red eye 
 
 La Fondre, purple-crimson, with carmine center 
 
 La Vogue, rosy mauve, with red eye 
 
 Lothair, salmon, with crimson eye 
 
 Marquis de St. Paul, rosy salmon, with crimson eye 
 
 M. Gladstone, soft rose, with crimson eye 
 
 Ornament, rosy magenta, with crimson eye 
 
 Pantheon, deep rosy salmon 
 
 P. Bonnetain, rose, overlaid with salmon 
 
 Prof. Schliemann, lilac-rose, with carmine eye 
 
 THE END 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 FLOWERS OF HARDY BULBS FROM FROST TO FROST 
 
 The following list is intended to suggest what 
 hardy bulbs to plant in order to insure a suc- 
 cession of flowers of this class outdoors prac- 
 tically all the year round: 
 
 
 JANUARY, FEBRUARY 
 
 AND MARCH 
 
 Popular Name 
 
 Botanical Name .M-g 
 
 Color 
 
 Cultural 
 Suggestions 
 
 Christmas rose 
 
 Helleborus niger G 
 
 White 
 
 Light soil, half 
 shade, sheltered 
 situation 
 
 Winter aconite 
 
 Eranthis hyemalis G 
 
 Yellow 
 
 Rich, well-drained 
 soil, partial shade 
 
 Siberian scilla 
 
 Scilla Sibirica G 
 
 Blue 
 
 Light sandy but 
 rich soil, sun 
 
 Purple scilla Scilla bifolia G Purple Light, rich soil, 
 
 sun 
 
 Glory-of-the-snow Chionodoxa 8 Blue "^ 
 
 Luciliae 
 
 — [Fair soil, well 
 
 Glory-of-the-snow Chionodoxa 8 Dark f drained, sun 
 
 Sardensis blue J 
 
 — I 1 m 
 
 Crocus Crocus vernus 5 f Whiter 
 
 1 lilac ' 
 
 Light soil, rich and 
 well drained, sun 
 
 ' Light Eoil and par- 
 Giant Snowdrop Galanthus Elwesii 8 White ) tial shade 
 
 379 
 
 Imperial crocus 
 
 Crocus Imperiati 
 
 5 
 
 Lilac 
 
 Scotch crocus 
 
 Crocus biflorus 
 
 5 
 
 y Light 
 1 lilac 
 
 Cloth-of-gold 
 crocus 
 
 Crocus Susianus 
 
 5 
 
 Yellow , 
 
 Snowdrop 
 
 Galanthus nivalis 
 
 4 
 
 White 
 
380 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 Popular Name 
 
 Botanical Name 
 
 II 
 
 Color 
 
 Cultural 
 Suggestions 
 
 Windflower 
 
 ( Anemone blanda 6 
 < Anemone Apen- 7 
 ( nina 
 
 Blue 
 Blue 
 
 Rich soil and sun 
 
 Trumpet nar- 
 cissus 
 
 Narcissus 
 
 Pseudo-Narcis- 
 sus 
 
 15 
 
 White- ^ 
 Yellow 
 
 Rich, deep soil — 
 - sun or half-shade 
 
 Cup narcissus 
 
 Narcissus incom- 
 parabilis 
 
 15 
 
 White- 
 yellow 
 
 Jonquil 
 
 Narcissus 
 Jonquilla 
 
 12 
 
 Yellow 
 
 
 Spring- snowflake 
 
 Leucojum 
 vernum 
 
 7 
 
 White 
 
 Light soil, rich, and 
 sun 
 
 Crown imperial 
 
 Fritillaria im- 
 perialis 
 
 4 
 
 Yellow- 1 
 red ; 
 
 Moist situation, 
 some shade, rich 
 soil 
 
 Grape hyacinth 
 
 Muscari 
 botryoides 
 
 6 
 
 Purple- 
 blue 
 
 Sunny situation, 
 fair soil 
 
 Tulip 
 
 Tulip suaveolens 
 
 12 
 
 Various 
 
 Sunny situation, 
 light, fair soil 
 
 Plyacinth 
 
 Hyacinthus 
 orientalis 
 
 12 
 
 
 Fairly rich soil, 
 sun 
 
 MAY 
 
 Poet's narcissus 
 
 Narcissus poet- 
 icus 
 
 IG 
 
 White ) 
 
 Sun or shade, rich 
 deep soil 
 
 Bluebell 
 
 Scilla festalis 
 
 10 
 
 Blue, ) 
 white, 1 
 pink ) 
 
 Half shade, fair 
 soil 
 
 Garden anemone 
 
 Anemone hor- 
 tensis 
 
 10 
 
 Purple, ' 
 white, 1 
 red. ) 
 
 Some shade, light, 
 rich soil 
 
 Poppy anemone 
 
 Anemone coro- 
 naria 
 
 10 
 
 White, ) 
 red, f 
 blue. S 
 
 Some shade, light, 
 rich soil 
 
 Wake Robin 
 
 Trillium grandi- 
 florum 
 
 12 
 
 White ) 
 
 Little sun. damp, 
 rich soil 
 
 May-flowermg 
 tulip 
 
 Tulipa Gesneriana 
 
 24 
 
 Various 
 
 Sun, rich, light soil 
 
 Star-of-Bethlehem Ornithogalum 9 
 
 umbellatum 
 
 White Sun or shade, fair 
 soil 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 381 
 
 JUNE 
 
 Popular Name 
 
 Botanical A'ame 
 
 If 
 
 u 
 
 Color 
 
 S 
 
 Cultural 
 uggestions 
 
 Spanish iris 
 
 Iris Xiphium 
 
 20 
 
 White, 
 blue, 
 yellow 
 
 Light, 
 sun 
 
 rich soil and 
 
 English Iris 
 
 Iris xiphioides 
 
 ■2i 
 
 Purple- 
 white 
 
 Light, 
 sun 
 
 rich soil and 
 
 Madonna lily 
 
 Lilium candidum 
 
 30 
 
 White 
 
 Light, 
 soil, 
 
 well drained 
 little shade 
 
 Hanson's lily 
 
 Lilium Hansoni 
 
 30 
 
 Orange 
 
 Light, 
 soil, 
 
 well drained 
 little shade 
 
 
 JULY 
 
 
 
 
 Erect lily 
 
 Lilium elegans 
 
 18 
 
 Orange- 
 red 
 
 Light, rich, well- 
 drained soil, sun 
 
 Canada lily 
 
 Lilium Canadense36 
 
 Yellow- 
 red 
 
 Moist, leaf mould, 
 partial shade 
 
 Purple trumpet Lilium Brownii 36 
 lily 
 
 Purple- 
 white 
 
 Light soil, sheltered 
 sunny situation 
 
 White trumpet Lilium longi- 26 
 
 lily florum 
 
 White Light soil, sun 
 
 Summer hyacinth Galtonia candi- 30 
 cans 
 
 Turk's Lily Lilium superbum 50 
 
 White 
 
 Red 
 
 orange 
 
 Light but deep soil 
 rich; sun 
 
 Deep soil, light but 
 rich; sun 
 
 Speciosum lily Lilium speciosum 36 
 
 White, 
 pink. 
 
 Deep soil, light but 
 rich; partial 
 shade 
 
 Henry's lily Lilium Henryi 48 
 
 Red, 
 
 yellow 
 
 Golden-banded 
 
 lily Lilium aurati 
 
 \\'hite 
 and gold 
 
 Deep soil, light but 
 rich; sun 
 
 Deep soil, light but 
 rich; sun 
 
 SEPTEMBER AND OCTOBER 
 
 Autumn crocus Colchicum 
 
 autumnale 
 
 White, 
 
 pink, 
 
 purple. 
 
 Light rich loam, 
 sun 
 
 Checkered crocus Co'chicum 
 
 *Parkinsoni 
 
 Yellow starflower Sternbergia lutea 
 
 Purple 
 
 Yello\ 
 
 Light, rich loam, 
 sun 
 
 Rich, heavy soil, 
 sun 
 
382 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 PLANTING TABLE OF THE BEST AND EASIEST GROWN 
 
 Popular Name 
 
 Botanical Name 
 
 Color 
 
 Height 
 (inches) 
 
 Glory-of-the-snow 
 
 ( Chionodoxa Lucilise 
 
 Sky blue 
 
 8 
 
 ( Chionodoxa Sardensis 
 
 Deep blue 
 
 8 
 
 Autumn crocus 
 
 Colchicum autumnale 
 
 White, pink 
 purple 
 
 5 
 
 Checkered crocus 
 
 Colchicum Parkinson! 
 
 Purple 
 
 5 
 
 Crocus 
 
 Crocus biflorus 
 
 Light lilac 
 
 Crocus Imperati 
 
 Lilac 
 
 5 
 
 Crocus Moesiacus 
 
 Yellow 
 
 5 
 
 Crocus Susianus 
 
 Golden 
 
 5 
 
 Crocus vernus 
 
 White, purple, 5 
 
 lilac 
 
 Winter aconite 
 
 Eranthis hyemalis 
 
 Yellow 
 
 6 
 
 Crown imperial 
 
 Fritillaria Imperialis 
 
 Red, yellow 
 
 C4 
 
 Guinea-hen-flower 
 
 Fritillaria Meleagris 
 
 Purple, green 
 
 18 
 
 Scarlet fritillary 
 
 Fritillaria recurva 
 
 Scarlet 
 
 18 
 
 Giant snowdrop 
 
 Galanthus Elwesii 
 
 White 
 
 8 
 
 Snowdrop 
 
 Galanthus nivalis 
 
 White 
 
 4 
 
 Christmas rose 
 
 Helleborus niger 
 
 White 
 
 6 
 
 Hyacinth 
 
 Hyacinthus orientalis 
 
 Various 
 
 12 
 
 Spanish iris 
 
 Iris Xiphium 
 
 White, blue 
 yellow 
 
 20 
 
 English iris 
 
 Iris xiphioides 
 
 Purple-white 
 
 14 
 
 Golden-banded 
 lily 
 
 Lilium auratum 
 
 White and gold 
 
 40 
 
 Purple trumpet 
 lily 
 
 Lilium Brownii 
 
 Purple-white 
 
 36 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 383 
 
 HAKDY BULBOUS PLANTS FOR AUTUMN PLANTING 
 
 Blooming 
 season 
 
 How deep to 
 
 Plant 
 
 (inches) 
 
 How far 
 
 apart 
 (inches) 
 
 Notes and Cultural Suggestions 
 
 March 
 
 3 
 
 3 I 
 
 ^ Plant in well drained soil — replant 
 
 March 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 1 every three or four years 
 
 September 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 Plant in masses. 
 
 September 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 Prefers light, rich soil 
 
 March 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 There is a white and very early va- 
 riety 
 
 March 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 Flowers with snowdrops 
 
 March 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 Good for naturalizing in grass 
 
 March 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 Very early species, excellent form 
 
 March 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 Common crocus — showy and per- 
 manent 
 
 March 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 Does best in partial shade 
 
 April 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 Set bulb on side 
 
 April 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 Several distinct forms are to be had 
 
 May 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 Distinct from other fritillaries 
 
 5 February 
 i March 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 Later in period of bloom than com- 
 mon variety 
 
 ( February 
 I March 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 Earliest spring flowers 
 
 5 December 
 I January 
 
 4 
 
 12 
 
 Impatient of disturbance when es- 
 tablished 
 
 April 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 Named varieties are best 
 
 June 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 Mulch the bed in winter 
 
 June 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 Same treatment as Spanish 
 
 August 
 
 8 
 
 18 
 
 Extremely showy but short-lived. 
 
 July 
 
 Excellent in border. 
 
384 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 PLANTING TABLE OF THE BEST AND EASIEST 
 
 GKOWN 
 
 Popular Name 
 
 Botanical Name 
 
 Color 
 
 Height 
 (inches) 
 
 Madonna lily 
 
 Lilium 
 
 candidum 
 
 White 
 
 30 
 
 Canada lily- 
 
 Lilium 
 
 Canadense 
 
 Golden red 
 
 36 
 
 Orange lily 
 
 Lilium 
 
 croceum 
 
 Orange red 
 
 36 
 
 Erect lily 
 
 Lilium 
 
 elegans 
 
 Orange red 
 
 18 
 
 Hanson's lily 
 
 Lilium 
 
 Hansoni 
 
 Orange 
 
 30 
 
 Henry's lily 
 
 Lilium 
 
 Henryi 
 
 Red, yellow 
 
 48 
 
 White trumpet lily 
 
 Lilium 
 
 longiflorum 
 
 White 
 
 26 
 
 Speciosum lily 
 
 Lilium 
 
 speciosum 
 
 White, pink 
 
 36 
 
 Turk's cap lily 
 
 Lilium 
 
 superbum 
 
 Red, orange 
 
 50 
 
 Tiger lily 
 
 Lilium 
 
 tigrinum 
 
 Red, purple 
 spots 
 
 48 
 
 Star flower 
 
 Milla 1 
 
 (Triteleia) uniflora 
 
 Blue 
 
 8 
 
 Grape hyacinth 
 
 Muscari botryoides 
 
 White, blue 
 
 6 
 
 Hoon-petticoat 
 narcissus 
 
 Narcissus Bulbocodium 
 
 Light yellow 
 
 8 
 
 Cup narcissus 
 
 Narcissus incomparabilis 
 
 White, yellow 
 
 15 
 
 Jonquil 
 
 Narcissus Jonquilla 
 
 Yellow 
 
 12 
 
 Poet's narcissus 
 
 Narcissus poeticus 
 
 White, crim- 
 son eye 
 
 14 
 
 Trumpet narcissus 
 
 Pseudo-Narcissus 
 
 White-yellow 
 
 15 
 
 Star-of-Bethlehem 
 
 Ornithogalum umbellatum White 
 
 9 
 
 Two-leaved scilla 
 
 Scilla 
 
 bifolia 
 
 White, purple 
 
 6 
 
 Bell-flowered scilla 
 
 Scilla 
 
 Hispanica 
 
 Blue, purple 
 
 10 
 
 Siberian scilla 
 
 Scilla Sibirica 
 
 White, blue 
 
 Wake Robin 
 
 Tulip 
 
 Trillium grandiflorum 
 
 Tulipa suaveolens, etc. 
 
 White 
 
 Various 
 
 12 to 24 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 385 
 
 HARDY 
 
 BULBOUS 
 
 , PLANTS FOR AUTUMN PLANTING 
 
 Blooming How deep to 
 season Plant 
 (inches) 
 
 How far 
 
 apart 
 (inches) 
 
 Notes and Cultural Suggestions 
 
 June 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 Plant by September 15 
 
 July 
 
 6 
 
 12 
 
 Effecti^'e when massed 
 
 July 
 
 8 
 
 18 
 
 Easily grown 
 
 July 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 Among the best for garden culti- 
 vation 
 
 June 
 
 
 
 15 
 
 Most effective in clumps 
 
 August 
 
 8 
 
 18 
 
 Splendid, unconventional variety 
 
 July 
 
 G 
 
 15 
 
 Pretty in border 
 
 August 
 
 8 
 
 18 
 
 Two varieties — rubrum, pink; album, 
 white 
 
 August 
 
 G 
 
 18 
 
 Useful in mixed border 
 
 August 
 
 8 
 
 18 
 
 Does well in borders 
 
 April-May 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 Plant in sheltered situations 
 
 April 
 
 3 
 
 i 
 
 Splendid when naturalized 
 
 April-May 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 Good when massed 
 
 April-May 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 Increases rapidly 
 
 April 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 Fragrant 
 
 April-May 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 Excellent for naturalizing — fra- 
 grant 
 
 April-May 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 Many forms are grown 
 
 May 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 Excellent for early summer bloom 
 
 March-April 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 Very hardy and early 
 
 May 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 Several varieties, all good 
 
 March-April 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 Better when slightly protected — 
 Later to bloom than S. bifolia 
 
 May 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 One of the best wild flowers 
 
 April-May 
 
 May-flowering are best for plant- 
 ing except in formal beds 
 
386 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 PLANTING LIST OF THE BEST 
 
 Popular Name. 
 
 Botanical Name 
 
 Color 
 
 Height 
 (inches) 
 
 Ageratum 
 
 Ageratum conyzoides 
 
 Blue white 
 
 4 to 10 
 
 Alyssum, sweet. 
 
 Alyssum maritimum 
 
 White 
 
 6 
 
 Aster, China 
 
 Callistephus Chinensis 
 
 V^arious 
 
 18 
 
 Baby's breath, 
 annual 
 
 Gypsophila muralis 
 
 White 
 
 24 
 
 Balloon vine 
 
 Cardiospermum Halica- 
 cabum 
 
 White 
 
 10 ft. 
 
 Balsam 
 
 Impatiens Balsamina 
 
 White, pink red, 
 yellow 
 
 18 
 
 Bartonia 
 
 Mentzelia Lindleyi 
 
 Yellow 
 
 12 to 30 
 
 Candytuft 
 
 Iberis amara 
 
 Red, white 
 
 6 
 
 Castor bean 
 
 Ricinus communis 
 
 
 5 to 8 ft. 
 
 
 Catchfly 
 
 Silene Armeria, S. pen- 
 dula 
 
 Red, white 
 
 12 to 18 
 
 i 
 
 Chrysanthemum, 
 annual 
 
 Chrysanthemum corona- 
 rium 
 
 White, yellow 
 
 12 to 24 
 
 Clarkia 
 
 Clarkia elegans 
 
 White, rose, pur- 
 ple 
 
 18 
 
 Cup and saucer 
 vine 
 
 Coboea scandens 
 
 Purplish white 
 
 15 ft. 
 
 Cockscomb 
 
 Celosia 
 
 Red, white, yellow 
 purple 
 
 6 to 12 
 
 Coreopsis 
 
 Coreopsis tinctoria 
 
 Yellow, brown 
 
 12 
 
 , Cornflower 
 
 Centaurea Cyanus 
 
 White, blue, rose 
 
 12 
 
 Cosmos 
 
 Cosmos bipinnatus 
 
 White, pink, red 2i/2to6ft. 
 
 Cypress vine 
 
 Daisy, Swan 
 River 
 
 Ipomoea Quamoclit 
 
 Scarlet 
 
 15 ft. 
 
 Brachycome iberidifolia White, blue 
 
 12 to 14 
 
 Everlasting 
 
 Xeranthemum annuum Purple 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 387 
 
 ANNUALS FOR ALL, PURPOSES 
 
 Season of Bloom 
 Early Late 
 
 Distance 
 Depth apart when 
 When to Sow to Sow transplanted 
 
 Indoors Outdoors (Inches) or thinned 
 (inches) 
 
 June 
 
 July to Oct. 
 
 March 
 
 May 
 
 yi 
 
 5 
 
 July 
 
 Aug. to Sept. 
 
 March 
 
 April 
 
 3^4 
 
 8 
 
 July 
 
 Sept. 
 
 March 
 
 May 
 
 'A 
 
 18 
 
 June 
 
 July to Oct. 
 
 March 
 
 May 
 
 Vs 
 
 12 
 
 
 Aug. 
 
 
 May 
 
 Vi 
 
 
 
 
 
 June 
 
 July to Sept. 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 V2 
 
 18 
 
 June 
 
 July to Sept. 
 
 IMarch 
 
 May 
 
 Va 
 
 12 
 
 
 June to Sept. 
 
 
 < April 
 Uuly 
 
 Va 
 
 
 
 
 
 Grown for 
 foliage 
 
 ornamental 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 2 
 
 36 
 
 June 
 
 July and Aug. 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 . /8 
 
 8 
 
 July 
 
 Aug. to Oct. 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 % 
 
 18 
 
 June 
 
 July to Oct. 
 
 April 
 
 ^May 
 ( June 
 
 Va 
 
 8 
 
 July 
 
 Aug. to Oct. 
 
 March 
 
 May 
 
 V2 
 
 18 
 
 June 
 
 July to Oct. 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 A 
 
 8 
 
 June 
 
 Aug. to Nov. 
 
 March 
 
 May 
 
 Va 
 
 12 
 
 
 June 
 
 
 April 
 
 Vs 
 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 August 
 
 September 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 V2 
 
 30 
 
 June 
 
 July 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 % 
 
 10 
 
 June 
 
 July to Oct. 
 
 ISIarch 
 
 May 
 
 V2 
 
 15 
 
 Aug. and Sept. 
 
 May 
 
 15 
 
388 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 PLANTING LIST OF THE BEST 
 
 Popular Name 
 
 Botanical Name 
 
 Color 
 
 Height 
 (inches) 
 
 Globe amaranth 
 
 Gomphrena globosa 
 
 Red 
 
 12 to 18 
 
 Godetia 
 
 CEnothera amoena, 
 Oi. Whitneyi 
 
 Red, white 
 
 12 to 18 
 
 Gourd 
 
 Cucurbita 
 
 Fruit 
 
 15 ft. 
 
 Hop, Japanese 
 
 Humulus Japonicus 
 
 Foliage plant 
 
 10 to 20 ft. 
 
 Hyacinth bean 
 
 Dolichos Lablab 
 
 White, purple 
 
 10 to 20 ft. 
 
 Ice plant 
 
 Mesembryanthemum 
 crystallinum 
 
 White 
 
 trailing vine 
 
 Immortelles 
 
 Helichrysum bracteatum 
 
 Yellow, orange 
 
 12 to 24 
 
 Larkspur, annual 
 
 Delphinium Ajacis 
 
 Red, white, blue 
 
 15 to 24 
 
 Love-lies-bleeding 
 
 Amarantus caudatus 
 
 Red 
 
 30 
 
 Marigold 
 
 Tagetes patula, T. erecta 
 
 Orange, yellow 
 
 12 to 24 
 
 Mignonette 
 
 Reseda odorata 
 
 Greenish white 
 
 12 
 
 Moon-flower 
 
 Ipomoea Bona-nox 
 
 White 
 
 15 to 30 ft. 
 
 Morning-glory 
 
 Ipomcea purpurea 
 
 Various 
 
 1 to 25 ft. 
 
 Musk 
 
 Mimulus moschatus 
 
 Yellow 
 
 12 to 30 
 
 Nasturtium 
 
 Nemophila 
 
 Phlox, annual 
 
 Pink, Chinese 
 
 Tropseolum majus 
 (climbing) and T. 
 minus (dwarf) 
 
 Various 
 
 Nemophila insignis and 
 N. Menziesii 
 
 Blue, white 
 
 Phlox Drummondii 
 
 Various 
 
 1 to 8 ft. 
 
 12 to 30 
 
 Palafoxia 
 
 Polypteris Hookeriana 
 
 Red 
 
 
 12 to 36 
 
 Pansy 
 
 Viola tricolor 
 
 Various 
 
 
 G to 12 
 
 Petunia 
 
 Petunia hybrida 
 
 White, magenta 
 
 12 to 24 
 
 to 12 
 
 Dianthus Chinensis 
 
 White and various 
 
 12 
 
APPENDIX 389 
 
 ANNUALS FOR ALL PURPOSES 
 
 Distance 
 Deptli apart when 
 Season of Bloom When to Sow to Sow transplanted 
 
 Early Late Indoors Outdoors (Inches) or thinned 
 
 (inches) 
 
 
 Aug. and Sept. 
 
 
 May 
 
 'A 
 
 
 
 
 15 
 
 June 
 
 July to Oct. 
 
 March 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 Vs 
 
 18 
 
 
 
 
 May 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 V2 
 
 30 
 
 
 July to Oct. 
 
 
 May 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 July 
 
 Aug. and Sept. 
 
 April 
 
 IMay 
 
 H 
 
 12 
 
 
 August 
 
 
 May 
 
 Va 
 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 June 
 
 July to Sept. 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 Ya 
 
 10 
 
 June 
 
 July 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 Va 
 
 18 
 
 June 
 
 July to Oct. 
 
 February 
 March 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 Va 
 
 12 
 
 May and June 
 
 ■ July to Oct. 
 
 March 
 
 April 
 May 
 
 Va 
 
 10 
 
 July 
 
 Aug. and Sept. 
 
 March 
 
 May 
 
 K2 
 
 24 
 
 June 
 
 July to Oct. 
 
 March and 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 Va 
 
 18 
 
 June 
 
 July and Aug. 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 /8 
 
 6 
 
 June 
 
 July to Oct. 
 
 March and 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 June 
 
 July to Oct. 
 
 March 
 
 April and 
 May 
 
 Va 
 
 6 
 
 
 July to Oct. 
 
 
 May 
 
 Va 
 
 
 
 
 18 
 
 May and June 
 
 Sept. to Oct. 
 
 Jan. and 
 Feb. 
 
 June to 
 August 
 
 v& 
 
 6 
 
 May 
 
 July to Oct. 
 
 April 
 
 May Sow on 
 Surface 
 
 12 
 
 June 
 
 July to Oct. 
 
 Feb. 
 
 April and 
 May 
 
 Va 
 
 12 
 
 May July to Sept. Feb. and April and J-^ 
 
 March May ^ *" 
 
390 
 
 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 PLANTING LIST OF THE BEST 
 
 Popular Name Botanical Name 
 
 Color 
 
 Height 
 (inches) 
 
 Poppy 
 
 Papaver 
 
 Various 
 
 6 to 30 
 
 Portulaca 
 
 Portulaca grandiflora 
 
 White, i-ed 
 
 6 to 12 
 
 Pot Marigold 
 
 Calendula officinalis 
 
 Orange, yellow 
 
 12 to 24 
 
 Rhodanthe 
 Rose moss 
 
 rielipterum Manglesii 
 Lu Portulaca 
 
 Purple 
 
 18 to 24 
 
 Salpiglossis 
 
 Salpiglossis sinuata 
 
 White, yellow, 
 red 
 
 20 
 
 Stock, ten-weeks 
 
 Matthiola incana, var. 
 annua. 
 
 \'arious 
 
 18 
 
 Sweet pea 
 
 Lathyrus odoratus 
 
 Various 
 
 4 to 8 ft. 
 
 Sweet Sultan 
 
 Centaurea moschata 
 
 White, yellow, 
 purple 
 
 24 
 
 Tarweed 
 
 Madia elegans 
 
 Yellow 
 
 12 to 24 
 
 Wish-bone flower 
 
 Torenia Fournieri 
 
 Yellow 
 
 12 to 20 
 
 Zinnia 
 
 Zinnia elegans 
 
 \"arious 
 
 12 to 36 
 
APPENDIX 391 
 
 ANNUALS FOR ALL PURPOSES 
 
 Distance 
 Depth apart wlien 
 Season of liloom ^^'hen to Sow to Sow transplanted 
 
 Early Late Indoors Outdoors (inches) or thinned 
 
 (Inches) 
 
 
 June to Aug. 
 
 
 March, 
 April 
 and May 
 
 v& 
 
 12 
 
 
 June 
 
 July to Oct. 
 
 Alarch and 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 Sow on 
 Surface 
 
 8 
 
 June 
 
 July to Oct. 
 
 ■March and 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 % 
 
 12 
 
 
 Aug. and Se])t. 
 
 
 
 May 
 
 Va 
 
 18 
 
 June 
 
 July to Oct. 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 M 
 
 6 
 
 June 
 
 July and Aug. 
 
 March 
 
 May 
 
 Va 
 
 12 
 
 
 July to Oct. 
 
 
 March to 
 June 
 
 3 to 4 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 June 
 
 July and Aug. 
 
 March and 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 V2 
 
 12 
 
 
 July to Oct. 
 
 
 May 
 
 Va 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 
 July to Oct. 
 
 March and 
 x\pril 
 
 
 
 % 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 June to Oct. 
 
 
 i\Iay 
 
 Va 
 
 12 
 
 
 
392 YAKD AND GARDEN 
 
 [The designs presented here are intended to assist the beginner. 
 While their real value lies in their suggestions, all are practical and, 
 if conditions admit of their use, can be followed in planting city 
 yards of similar shape and size. Only those plants that are haidiest 
 and easiest raised are advised.] 
 
 DIAGRAM ILLUSTRATING BORDER-PLANTING 
 
 Mixed Border of Shrubs and Hardy Herbaceous Plants, Arranged 
 
 According to Height, Color of Bloom and Season of 
 
 Flowering: — 
 
 Name 
 
 Aster alpinus 
 Campanula Carpatica 
 Alyssum saxatile, var. compactum 
 Achillea Ptarmica, var. " The Pearl " 
 Campanula latifolia, var. macrantha 
 Spircca Van Houttei 
 Forsythia suspensa, var. Fortunei 
 Hydrangea paniculata, var. grandiflora 
 Syringa vulgaris (lilac) 
 Diervilla hybrida, var. Eva Rathke 
 Yucca Ulamentosa 
 Iris Icevigata (Kcempferi) 
 Iris Germanica 
 Hypericum Moscrianum 
 Statice latifolia 
 Pcconies 
 
 Phlox paniculata 
 Erigeron speciosus 
 Platycodon grandiAorum 
 Arunciis {Spircca) astiboides 
 Spircca Aruncus (Anmcus Sylvester) 
 Althcca rosea 
 Boltonia latisquama 
 Bocconia cordata 
 Delphinium hybridum 
 
 No. on 
 
 Quantity 
 
 diagram 
 
 required 
 
 1 
 
 18 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 3 
 
 20 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 11 
 
 4 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 1-t 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 20 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 20 
 
 18 
 
 12 
 
 19 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 12 
 
 21 
 
 12 
 
 22 
 
 10 
 
 23 
 
 18 
 
 24 
 
 5 
 
 25 
 
 6 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 393 
 
394: 
 
 YARD AND GAEDEN 
 
 BORDER OF PERENNIALS 
 
 Straight Border of the Best and Hardiest Herbaceous Perennials, 
 Arranged to Insure Succession of Bloom: — 
 
 Name 
 
 No. 
 
 on Season 
 
 
 diagr 
 
 am of bloom 
 
 
 1 
 
 May, June, July 
 
 2 
 
 ]\Iay, June 
 
 
 3 
 
 June, July 
 
 
 4 
 
 July,^Aug., 
 
 Sept., 
 
 5 
 
 Aug., Sept. 
 
 
 6 
 
 July, Aug. 
 
 
 7 
 
 Sept. Oct. 
 
 
 8 
 
 , June, July 
 
 
 9 
 
 July, Aug., 
 Oct. 
 
 Sept., 
 
 10 
 
 June, July 
 
 
 n 
 
 Aug., Sept. 
 
 
 12 
 
 June, July 
 
 
 13 
 
 June, July 
 
 
 14 
 
 July, Aug. 
 
 
 15 
 
 June, July 
 
 
 16 
 
 June, July 
 
 
 
 Aug., Sept. 
 
 17 
 
 April, May 
 
 
 18 
 
 May, June 
 
 
 19 
 
 July, Aug., 
 
 Sept. 
 
 20 
 
 May, June, 
 
 July 
 
 21 
 
 July, Aug., 
 
 Sept. 
 
 22 
 
 July, Aug., 
 
 Sept. 
 
 23 
 
 May, June 
 
 
 24 
 
 June, July 
 
 
 25 
 
 May, June, 
 
 July 
 
 26 
 
 May, June, 
 Aug. 
 
 July, 
 
 27 
 
 June, July 
 
 
 28 
 
 June, July, 
 
 Aug. 
 
 29 
 
 July, Aug. 
 
 
 80 
 
 June, July 
 
 
 31 
 
 April, May 
 
 
 32 
 
 ;"uly, Aug., 
 
 Sept. 
 
 33 
 
 . une, July 
 
 
 34 
 
 ."une, July, 
 Sept., Oct 
 
 Aug., 
 
 35 
 
 May, June, 
 Aug. 
 
 "July, 
 
 36 
 
 May, June 
 
 
 37 
 
 Jtily, Aug., 
 
 Sept. 
 
 7m crista t a 
 Trolliiis EuropcBus 
 Iris plicata 
 
 Boltonia latisqumna 
 
 Boltonia asteroides 
 
 Helianthns mollis 
 
 Aster Tataricus 
 
 Penstemon Icevigatus, var. Digitalis 
 
 Phlox paniculata 
 
 Ulmaria (Spircca) Filipendula 
 
 Helianthus rigidiis, var. Miss Mellish 
 
 Campanula latifolia, var. macrantha 
 
 Campanula persicifolia 
 
 Bocconia cordata 
 
 Yucca aiamentosa 
 
 Centaurea macrocephala 
 
 Phlox subulata 
 
 Armeria maritima 
 
 Centaurea niontana, var. alba 
 
 Iris Gerinanica 
 
 Silphium laciniatiim 
 
 Rndbeckia laciniata 
 
 Baptisia australis 
 
 Iris lavigata (Kcempferi) 
 
 Aqiiilegia carulea 
 
 Dianthus plumarius 
 Scabiosa Caucasica 
 Campanula Carpatica 
 Gypsophila paniculata 
 Delphinium hybridum 
 Trollius Asiaticus 
 Statice latifolia 
 Campanula glomerata 
 
 Achillea Ptarmica, var. "The Pearl" 
 
 Aquilegia chrysantha 
 
 Paonia 
 
 Aconitum Napellus 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 395 
 
396 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 DESIGN FOR CITY YARD FRONTING EAST 
 
 Name 
 
 Picea pungens, var. glaitca 
 
 Clematis Jackmani 
 
 Kalmia latifolia 
 
 Funka subcordata, var. graiidiflora 
 
 Lonicera Hal Han a 
 
 Wistaria Chinensis 
 
 Alyssnm saxatilc, var. compactum 
 
 Paonia 
 
 Spircca Van Houttei 
 
 Syringa vulgaris (lilac) 
 
 Spircca Bumalda, var. Anthony Watcrcr 
 
 Berberis (Mahonia) 
 
 Hydrangea panictilata, var. grandiflora 
 
 Abies concolor 
 
 Ligustrum ovalifolium, or var. Regeliauuin 
 
 Myosotis palustris 
 
 Phlox subulata 
 
 Phlox paniculata 
 
 Iris pumila 
 
 Dianthus barbatus 
 
 Iris Germanica 
 
 Hardy ferns 
 
 Dianthus plumarius 
 
 Lychnis Viscaria, var. splcndcns 
 
 Thalictruni aquilegifolium 
 
 Delphinium formosnin 
 
 Iris IcTTigata (Kccinpferi) 
 
 Cypsophila paniculata 
 
 Armeria maritima 
 
 Physostcgia Virgin iana 
 
 Platycodon gixindiflormn 
 
 Stokesia cyanea 
 
 Centaurea montana 
 
 Hardy ferns 
 
 Aquilegia ccerulea 
 
 Campanula Carpatica 
 
 Campanula persicifolia 
 
 Hfirdy ferns 
 
 No. on. 
 
 Quantity 
 required 
 
 diagram 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 50 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 G 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 35 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 13 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 300 
 
 16 
 
 15 
 
 17 
 
 20 
 
 18 
 
 12 
 
 19 
 
 30 
 
 20 
 
 25 
 
 21 
 
 8 
 
 22 
 
 6 
 
 23 
 
 35 
 
 24 
 
 15 
 
 25 
 
 10 
 
 26 
 
 15 
 
 27 
 
 5 
 
 28 
 
 10 
 
 29 
 
 35 
 
 30 
 
 5 
 
 31 
 
 15 
 
 32 
 
 30 
 
 33 
 
 10 
 
 34 
 
 8 
 
 35 
 
 10 
 
 36 . 
 
 30 
 
 37 
 
 20 
 
 38 
 
 20 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 397 
 
398 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 DESIGN FOR CITY CORNER YARD 
 
 on 
 ram 
 
 Number 
 required 
 
 Name 
 
 1 
 
 75 
 
 Coreopsis lanceolata 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 Wistaria Chinensis 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 Lonicera Halliana 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 Rose, Crimson Rambler 
 
 5 
 
 50 
 
 Hemerocallis fulva 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 Picea pun gens, var. glauca 
 
 7 
 
 12 
 
 Phlox paniculata 
 
 8 
 
 24 
 
 Aconitum autumnale 
 
 9 
 
 12 
 
 Iris Icevigata (Kcempferi) 
 
 10 
 
 18 
 
 Delphiniurn hybridum 
 
 11 
 
 14 
 
 German iris 
 
 12 
 
 20 
 
 Althcca rosea, single 
 
 13 
 
 12 
 
 Pcconia 
 
 14 
 
 12 
 
 Bocconin cordata 
 
 15 
 
 12 
 
 Trollius Eiiropcpus 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 Boltonia asteroides 
 
 17 
 
 12 
 
 Campanula latifolio, var. macrantha 
 
 18 
 
 24 
 
 Rudbeckia, Golden Glow 
 
 19 
 
 15 
 
 Statice latifolia 
 
 20 
 
 6 
 
 Yucca aiamentosa 
 
 21 
 
 100 
 
 Berberis Thunbergii 
 
 22 
 
 9 
 
 Maples 
 
 (Thin when crowding begins) 
 
 23 
 
 1 
 
 Syringa vulgaris (lilac) 
 
 24 
 
 2 
 
 Spircea Van Houttei 
 
 25 
 
 3 
 
 Hydrangea paniculata, var. grandiflora 
 
 26 
 
 1 
 
 Forsythia suspensa, var. Fortunei 
 
 27 
 
 
 Hardy ferns' 
 
 (Space is left at the point A to allow entrance to the lawn.) 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 399 
 
 J [ ' ] [ 
 
400 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 DESIGN FOR CITY YARD FRONTING WEST 
 
 No. on 
 
 Quantity 
 
 Name of plant 
 
 liagram 
 
 required 
 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 Picea pungens, var. glauca 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 Psev.dotsuga Doiiglasii 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 Spiraa Van Houttei 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 Kalmia latifolia 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 Berberis {Mahonia) Aquifolium 
 
 G 
 
 2 
 
 Hydrangea paniculata, var. grandiHora 
 
 7 
 
 75 
 
 Iris Germanica 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 Clematis paniculata 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 Lonicera Halliana 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 Hardy ferns 
 
 11 
 
 30 
 
 Armcria maritima 
 
 12 
 
 20 
 
 Ulmaria (Spircca) Filipendula 
 
 13 
 
 15 
 
 Alyssum saxatile 
 
 14 
 
 20 
 
 Se'dum spectabile 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 Thalictriim aquilegifolium 
 
 16 
 
 20 
 
 Dvanthus barbatus 
 
 17 
 
 8 
 
 Funkia subcordata, var. grandiHora 
 
 18 
 
 10 
 
 Helenium autumnale, var. superbitm 
 
 19 
 
 15 
 
 Statice latifolia 
 
 20 
 
 25 
 
 Achillea Ptarmica, var. " Tlie Pearl " 
 
 21 
 
 20 
 
 Althcea rosea 
 
 22 
 
 15 
 
 Bocconia cordata 
 
 23 
 
 10 
 
 Delphinium formosuni 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 Iris Iccvigata (Kcrinpferi) 
 
 25 
 
 15 
 
 Physostegia Virginiana 
 
 26 
 
 6 
 
 Pceonia 
 
 27 
 
 12 
 
 Phlox paniculata 
 
 28 
 
 15 
 
 Hibiscus Moscheutos, var. Crimson Eye 
 
 29 
 
 18 
 
 Campanula persicifolia 
 
 30 
 
 18 
 
 Veronica longifolia, var. subsessiiis 
 
 31 
 
 75 
 
 Berberis Thunbergii 
 
 32 
 
 5 
 
 Azalea amcena 
 
 33 
 
 10 
 
 Funkia ca:rulea 
 
 34 
 
 ]5 
 
 Iris piimila 
 
 35 
 
 38 
 
 Hardy ferns 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 401 
 
402 YARD AND GARDEN 
 
 DESIGN COMBINING ORNAMENT AND UTILITY 
 
 No. on 
 diagram 
 
 1 
 
 Quantity- 
 required 
 200 
 C 80 
 
 Name 
 
 Ligustrum ovali folium 
 Pcconia 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 4 
 5 
 
 ( 30 
 
 4 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 Phlox paniculata 
 Rose; Dorothy Perkins 
 Clematis paniculata 
 Lcnicem, var. Halliana 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 8 
 9 
 
 3 
 2 
 
 Grape 
 
 Currants, blackberries c 
 Bed of annuals 
 Dwarf fruit trees 
 
 or raspberries 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 403 
 
 \ 
 
 [i 
 
 o o O O O 
 
 K o (:■■:. ' ■'■ 
 
 O f...v.:..-;.; :v 
 
 o ' ■■■:-.:::■■ 
 
 *^ o ' ■ . " ■ - ■ 
 
 _. , o ^ 
 
INDEX 
 
INDEX 
 
 Abutilon, 133, 351 
 Acer platanoidcs, 289 
 
 saccharinum, 289 
 
 saccharuni, 289 
 Achillea, illiis. 139 
 
 Ptarmica, var. " The 
 
 Peari;' 162 
 
 Aconitum autumnale, 166 
 
 Fischeri, 164 
 
 Napellus, illus. 161 
 Actinidia arguta, 95 
 Adiantum cuneatum, 356 
 Adonis vernalis, 159 
 ^sculus Hippocastanum, 289 
 Agapanthus, 235 
 Ailanthus glandulosa, 289 
 Akebia quinata, 95 
 J Istrcemeria, 235 
 Althaea rosea, 162 
 Althea, shrubby, 264 
 Alyssum saxaiile, 159 
 
 (see Sweet alyssum) 
 Amelanchier, 264 
 Ampelopsis, illus. 89 
 
 quinquefolia, 87 
 
 Veitchi, 94 
 Andromeda floribunda, 256, 
 
 263 
 Awemone Japonica, 166 
 
 Pennsylvanica, 169 
 Annuals, 99 
 
 Beds for, 108 
 
 Cultivation indoors, 105 
 
 General classification of, 
 100 
 
 Half-hardy, 101 
 
 Hardy, 101, 114 
 
 Location of beds for, 114 
 
 Planting indoors, 102 
 
 Planting- outdoors, 113, 115 
 
 Selection of varieties of, 
 119 
 
 Soil for, 110 
 
 Sowing in flats, 103 
 
 Support for, 116 
 
 Tender, 101 
 
 Transplanting, 105 
 
 Watering, 117 
 
 Weeding, 116 
 Anthemis tinctoria, illus. 152, 
 
 162 
 Antirrhinum, illus. 105, 133 
 Apios tuberosa, 239 
 Aquilegia, illus. 139, 159, 160 
 
 ccerulea, 151 
 
 Canadensis, 159 
 Arabis albida, 159 
 Ardisia, 351 
 
 Aristolochiu macrophyUa, 88 
 Armeria rnaritima, 160 
 Aruncus asiilboides, illus. 155 
 Asclepias tuberosa, 164 
 Ash, 289 
 Ashes, wood, 58 
 Asparagus, 133, 351 
 Asplenium, 356 
 Aster Amellus, 104 
 
 China, illus. 105, 120 
 
 ^ovce-Anglice, 164 
 
 Stoke's, illus. 147 
 (see ^tokesia) 
 
 Tataricus, 166 
 Astilbe Japonica, 160 
 Aubrietia deltoidea, 159 
 
 407 
 
408 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Aucuba, 351 
 Aiiracaria, 351 
 
 Azalea, illus. 258; 256, 264, 
 350 
 Indica, illus. 333 
 
 Balloon flower, illus. 148 
 
 (see Platycodon) 
 Balsam, 120 
 Baptisia australis, 160 
 Barberry (see Berbcris) 
 Bee Balm, 148 
 Beech, 289 
 Begonia, 133, 351, 352 
 
 Rex, illus. 336 
 
 Tuberous, illus. 178; 133, 
 235, 236 
 Belemcanda Chinensis, 162 
 Bellflower, 151 
 Bellis perennis, 159 
 Berheris, 263, 265 
 
 Aquifolium, 256, 263 
 
 vulgaris, 264 
 Bermuda grass, 69 
 Bessera, 235 
 Biennials, 99 
 Bitter sweet, False, 95 
 Blue-grass, Kentucky, 53-55 
 Bocconia cordata, 164 
 Boltonia asteroides, illus. 
 159, 164 
 
 latisquama, 164 
 Bone meal, 58 
 Boston ivy, 194 
 Bouvardia, 351 
 Boxes, porch, 120 
 
 window, 120 
 Bridal wreath, illus. 241 
 Browallia, 351 
 Bucktliorn, 265 
 Bulbocodium, 188 
 Bulbous plants, 170 
 
 (see Bulbs) 
 Bulbs, 170 
 
 Arrangement of, 188, 190 
 
 Classification of, 171 
 
 Cultivation of, 179 
 
 Depth to plant, 214 
 
 Dividing, 184 
 
 Hardy, 173, 186, 194 
 
 In beds, 189 
 
 In borders, 180 
 
 Indoors, 339, 346 
 
 In lawn, 187 
 
 Lifting, 184 
 
 Planting, 178, 182, 190 
 
 Preparation of beds for, 
 176 
 
 Spring flowering, 209 
 
 Succession of bloom of, 175 
 
 Tender, 175, 235 
 
 Value of, 173 
 
 Winter protection of, 183 
 Buttonbush, 264 
 Buttonwood, 289 
 
 Caladium, 133, 235 
 Calendula, 114, 120 
 
 officinalis, illus. 116 
 Calimeris incisa, 160, 162 
 Caliopsis, 114, 120 
 Calla, 235 
 
 Callirhoe involucrata, 160 
 Calycanthus floridus, 263 
 Camelia, 351 
 Campanula alliariaefolia, 162 
 
 Carpatica, 160 
 
 glomerata, 162 
 
 persicifolia, 160 
 
 pyramidalis, 151, 164 
 
 Trachelium, 162 
 Canada lily, illus. 185 
 Candytuft, 120 
 Canna, illus. 176 and 181; 
 235 
 
 (see Richardia) 
 Carnation, 351 
 Catchfly, illus. 137 
 Ceanothus Americanus, 264 
 Celastrus scandens, 95 
 Cephalanthus Occident alls, 264 
 
INDEX 
 
 409 
 
 Ccratostignia phimhaginoidcs, 
 
 164 
 Vhelone Lyoni, 104 
 
 ohliqua, 104 
 Chestnut, horse, 289 
 China aster, illus. 105; 120 
 Chinese sacred lily, 348 
 Chionodoxa, 188 
 
 Depth to plant, 214 
 
 gigantea, 212 
 
 grandifioni, 212 
 
 Su ideas is, 212 
 Chrysanthemmn, 104, 100, 350 
 
 frutesccns, illus. 330 
 
 Leucanthemum , 102 
 
 maximum, 102 
 Chrysogonum \ irginianum, 
 
 160 
 Cimicifuga racemosa, 102 
 Cineraria, 351 
 Cinnamon vine, 95, 238 
 Cinquefoil, 203 
 Clarkia, 120 
 Chiy (see Soil) 
 Clematis, 91 
 
 Davidiana, 164 
 
 Diseases of, 92 
 
 Flammula, 92 
 
 Henry i, 94 
 
 Jackmani, illus. 84; 92 
 
 paniculata, 92 
 
 recta, 160 
 
 Soil for, 91 
 Clethra ahiifolia, 203, 264 
 Climbers (see Vines) 
 
 For indoor gardens, 350, 
 351 
 Climbing fern, 350, 367 
 Climbing roses, 90 
 
 (see Roses) 
 Coboea scandens, 351 
 Cockscomb, 120 
 Coleus, 133 
 Color of flowers. 40 
 Columbine, illus, 139; 151 
 (see Aquilcgia) 
 
 Conocliniuiiu caclcstinum, 104 
 Convallaria majalis, 159 
 Cooperia, 235 
 Coreopsis, 120 
 
 lanceoluia, 100 
 Corm (see Bulbs) 
 Cornelian cherry, 205 
 Cornflower, 114 
 Cornus, 263, 264 
 Coronilla varia, 100 
 Corylus, 204 
 Crab-grass, 08 
 Crimson Rambler, 90 
 Crocus, 188, 212 
 
 Depth to plant, 214 
 Croton, 133 
 Crytonium, 350 
 Cupheas, 351 
 Currant, wild, 263 
 Cyanca l^tokesia, illus. 147 
 Cycas rcvoluta, 351 
 Cyclamen, 351 
 Cydonia Japonicu, 203, 204 
 
 Daffodil (see Xarcissus) 
 Dahlia, illus. 170; 235, 230 
 
 Single, illus. 189 
 Dandelions in lawn, 00 
 Daphne, 204 
 Day lily, illus. 100 
 
 (see Hemerucallis) 
 Delphinium formosinn, 100 
 
 grandiflorum, 102 
 
 hybridum, illus. 150 
 Deutzia, 253, 204 
 
 gracilis, 203 
 
 scabra, 203 
 Dianthus barbatus, illus. 154; 
 160 
 
 plumarius, 100 
 Dicentra eximia. 100 
 
 spectabile, 159 
 Dictmanus albus, 100 
 Diervilla, 204 
 Digitalis umbigiia. 102 
 
 tnonstrosa, illus. 101 
 
410 
 
 INDEX 
 
 pui~purea, 160 
 
 Dioscorea divaricata, 95 
 
 Diseases, 309, 323 
 Catalogue of, 324 
 Remedies for, 324, 327 
 
 Dogwood, 263 
 
 Doronicum plantigineum, 159 
 
 Dracaena, 351 
 
 Dragon-head, False, illus. 154 
 
 Drainage, 303 
 
 Dutchman's pipe, 88 
 
 Easter lily, 346 
 Echinacea purpurea, 162 
 Elceagnus long i pes, 265 
 Elder, 264 
 Elm, 289 
 English ivy, 350 
 Eranthis liyemalis, 213 
 
 Depth to plant, 214 
 Erigeron speciosus, 160 
 Eryngium amethystiniim, 162 
 Erythronium, illus. 106 
 Euonymiis, 265, 351 
 
 Japonicus, 257 
 
 radicans, 95 
 Eupatorium ageratoides, 164 
 Euphorbia corolotta, 162 
 Factory grounds planted, 18 
 Fagus ferruginea, 289 
 False bitter sweet, 95 
 False dragon-head, illus. 154 
 Farfugium, 351 
 Ferns, 364 
 
 Best varieties, 367 
 
 Boston, 356 
 
 Christmas, 367 
 
 Cinnamon, 367 
 
 Clayton's, 367 
 ■ Climbing, 350, 367 
 
 Culture of, 356 
 
 Ebony, 356, 367 
 
 Evergreen, 367 
 
 For indoor garden, 351, 356 
 
 For porch boxes, 133 
 
 Goldie's, 367 
 
 Gossamer, 367 
 
 Hardy, 364 
 
 Holly, 356 
 
 Kidney, 356 
 
 Lace, illus. 354; 367 
 
 Lady, 367 
 
 Maidenhair, illus. 355; 356, 
 367 
 
 New York, 367 
 
 Ostrich, illus. 366; 367 
 
 Pests of, 356 
 
 Pierson, 356 
 
 Royal, 367 
 
 Scott, 356 
 
 Sensitive, 367 
 
 Shield, 367 
 
 Situation for, 364 
 
 Soil for, 366 
 
 Sword, 356 
 
 Walking, 367 
 Fertilizers, 293 
 
 Animal manures, 303 
 
 Bone meal, 58, 307 
 
 For lawns, 46, 56 
 
 For porch boxes, 131 
 
 For potted plants, 337 
 
 For vines, 84 
 
 Lime, 59 
 
 Liquid, 132, 305, 307 
 
 Muriate of potash, 307 
 
 Nitrate of soda, 58, 307 
 
 Soot, 305 
 
 Wood ashes, 58, 307 
 Festuca glauca, 351 
 Ficus elastica, 351 
 Filbert, 264 
 Flats, 103 
 
 Fleur-de-lis (see Iris) 
 Formal city garden, illus. 3 
 Forsythia, 253 
 
 suspensa, 264 
 Foxglove, illus. 161 
 
 (see Digitalis) 
 Fraxinus Americana, 289 
 Freesia, illus. 347 
 
 In pots, 347 
 
INDEX 
 
 411 
 
 Fuchsia, 133, 351 
 Fungicides, 327 
 Fungus (see Diseases) 
 Funkia, illus. 166 
 
 Fortunei, illus. 306, 162 
 
 laiicifolia, 162 
 
 ovata, 162 
 
 subcordata, 164 
 
 Gaillardia aristata, 160, 164 
 Galanthus, 210 
 
 Depth to plant, 214 
 Gardening, 4 
 
 Geranium, illus. 350; 133,351 
 Geranium sanguineiim, 160 
 German iris, 160, 161 
 Geum coccineum, 160 
 
 montanum, 160 
 Ginkgo hiloha, 289 
 Gladiolus, illus. 206; 235,236 
 Glechoma, 133 
 Globe-flower, illus. 141 
 
 (see Trollius) 
 Glory-of-the-sJiow (see Chion- 
 
 odoxa ) 
 Goldenbell, 264 
 Golden glow, 158 
 
 (see Rudheckia) 
 Grass (see Lawns) 
 
 For clay soil, 55 
 
 For lawns, 55 
 
 For sandy soil, 55 
 
 For shaded spots, 55 
 
 For terraces, 55 
 GreviUea robust a, 351 
 Gypsophila paniculata, 162 
 
 Hamamelis, 254 
 Height of plants, 40 
 Helenium, 164 
 
 Hoopesii, 160 
 Helianthus, 164 
 Heliopsis Icevis, 162 
 Heliotrope, 133, 351 
 Helloborus niger, 159 
 
 orientalis, 159 
 
 Hemerocallis, illus. 166, 162 
 
 Dumortierii, 160 
 Hepatica triloba, 159 
 Heuchera sanguinea, 162 
 Hibiscus, 351 
 
 Moscheutus, illus. 143, 164 
 
 Syriacus, 264 
 Honeysuckle, illus. 93 
 (see Lonicera) 
 
 Bush, 264 
 Humus (see ^oil) 
 Hyacinth, illus. 201; 194 
 
 Best varieties of, 202 
 
 For jDots, 343 
 
 In water, 344 
 
 Named varieties of, 200 
 
 Planting of, 200 
 
 Preparation of beds for, 201 
 
 Roman, 344 
 
 Winter protection of, 200 
 Hyacinthus candicans, 237 
 Hydrangea, illus. 244; 254 
 
 hortensis, illus. 353 
 
 paniculata, 264 
 Hypericum aureum, 263 
 
 prolificum, 264 
 Iberis sempervirens, 160 
 
 Indoor gardens 
 
 (see Window gardens) 
 Insecticides, 313, 321 
 Insects, 309 
 
 Chewing, 310 
 
 Destruction of, 310 
 
 Lists of, 313 
 
 Sucking, 310 
 Inula ensifolia, 162 
 Iris, 219 
 
 Bulbous, 224 
 
 cristata, 232 
 
 Division of, 234 
 
 Dwarf varieties of, 231 
 
 English (see /. xiphioides) 
 
 Florentina, 233 
 
 Germanica, illus. 230; 160. 
 161, 230 
 
^12 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Japanese (see /. Iwvigata) 
 Kcempferi (see /. Iwvdgata) 
 Icevigata, illus. 221; 161, 
 
 227 
 Oncocyclus, 220 
 pallida, 233 
 Planting, 234 
 Pseudacorus, 161, 233 
 pumila, 231 
 reticulata, 226 
 Rhizomatous, 227 
 t<ihirica, illus. 230 and 234; 
 
 161, 233 
 Spanish (see /, Xiphium) 
 ^usiana, 220 
 Varieties of, 219, 223 
 verna, 159, 232 
 ociphioides, ilhis. 234; 224 
 Xiphium, illus. 225; 224 
 Ivv, Boston, 94 
 English, 350 
 Kenilworth, 351 
 Parlor, 350 
 
 Japanese Iris (see /. Iwvi- 
 gata) 
 
 Japanese quince, 263, 264 
 
 Japanese rose, 263 
 
 Juneberry, 264 
 
 Kalmia latifolia, illus. 255; 
 256, 263, 264. 
 
 Kenilworth ivy, 351 
 Kentucky blue-grass, 53 
 Kerria Japonica, 263 
 Kerria, white, 264 
 Kniphofia aloides, illus. 185 
 Kudzu vine, 239 
 
 Lantana, weeping, 133 
 Larkspur, illus. 150 
 
 (see DelpJiinium ) 
 Lavendula vera, 165 
 Lawns, 44 
 
 Autumn spading, 48 
 
 Bone meal for, 58 
 
 Fertilizing, 45, 48, 56 
 
 Insects attacking, 71 
 
 Lime for, 59 
 
 Moles in, 71 
 
 Mowing, 60 
 
 Nitrate of soda for, 58 
 
 Preparation of soil for, 44- 
 48 
 
 Renovating old, 73 
 
 Rolling, 59 
 
 Seed for, 52-55 
 
 Sowing of, 52 
 
 Top-dressing of, 58 
 
 Turf for, 49 
 
 Watering, 63 * 
 
 Weeds in, 66 
 
 Wood ashes on, 58 
 Leaf mold (see Soil) 
 Leucojum vernum, 210 
 
 Depth to plant, 214 
 Liatris gianiinifoUa, 164 
 
 spicata, 1(54 
 Ligustrum, 263 
 Lilac (see Syringa) 
 Lilium, 214 
 
 aitratum, 215, 217 
 
 Batemannice, 215, 217 
 
 Best varieties of, 215 
 
 Brownii, 215, 217 
 
 Canadense, illus. 185; 217 
 
 candidum, illus. 191; 217 
 
 Chalcedonicum, 217 
 
 croceum, 217 
 
 Depth to plant, 218 
 
 Elegans, illus. 216 
 
 excelsum, 217 
 
 Hansoni, 217 
 
 Harrisii, 346 
 
 Henry i, 215, 217 
 
 Japonicum, illus. 187, 215 
 
 Krameri, illus. 187 
 longiflorum, 215 
 
 Martagon, 217 
 
 Par da linuni , 217 
 
 Philadelph i cum, 217 
 Reason for planting, 215 
 
INDEX 
 
 413 
 
 Soil for, 214, 217 
 
 speciosum, 217 
 
 superbum, 217 
 
 Thunbergiaiiuin, illiis. 210; 
 217 
 
 Tigrinum, illus. 211, 217 
 
 umbellaium, 217 
 
 Value of, 214 
 
 Wallacei, 217 
 
 Washingtonianuni, 217 
 Lily (see Lilium) 
 Lime, 59 
 Linden, 289 
 
 Liriodendron tulipifcra, 289 
 Lobelia cardinalis, 164 
 
 syphilitica, 164 
 Location of house, 26 
 Lonicera, 94, 265 
 
 Haliiana, illus. 93; 94 
 
 Japonica, 94 
 
 sempervirens, 94 
 
 Tatarica, 264 
 Lychnis Chacedonica, 163 
 
 Coronaria, 161 
 
 Yespertina, 163 
 
 Viscaria, var. splendens, 
 illus. 137; 161 
 Lygodium, 350, 356 
 Lysimachia clethroides, 163 
 
 nummular ia, 161 
 
 punctata, 161 
 
 Madeira vine, 235, 238, 351 
 Madonna lily, illus. 191 
 
 ( see Lilium ) 
 Mahernia odorata, 351 
 Mahonia (see Berberis Aqui- 
 
 folium, ) 
 Maidenhair fern (see fern) 
 
 tree, 289 
 Manettia, 133 
 Manure (see fertilizer) 
 Maple, 289 
 
 Marguerite, illus. 152; 351 
 Mass planting, 38 
 Maurandya, 133, 350 
 
 Mesenibryanthemum, 35 1 
 
 Mignonette, 114 
 
 Mock orange (see I'liiladcl- 
 
 phiis) 
 Monarda didyma, illus. 148 
 Monkshood, illus. 161 (see 
 
 Aconitum 
 Montbretia, illus. 206; 235, 
 
 237 
 Morning glory, 96, 114 
 
 Japanese, 133 
 Mountain fetter bush, 264 
 Mountain laurel (see Hal- 
 
 mia) 
 
 Nasturtium, 96, 120, 133 
 Narcissus, illus. 170 and 199; 
 194, 340 
 
 Barrii, 198 
 
 Best varieties of, 197 
 
 Colors of, 195 
 
 Double, 200 
 
 For outdoor planting, 197 
 
 incomparabilis, 198 
 
 In pots, 340 
 
 Leedsii, 200 
 
 Naturalizing, 195 
 
 Paper white, illus. 341 ; 342 
 
 poeticus, illus. 196; 195, 
 200 
 
 Season for planting, 196 
 
 Trumpet, 197 
 
 Value of, 194 
 Nephrolepis, 356 
 Nitrate of soda (see Fertili- 
 zers 
 
 Oak, 289 
 
 Oenothera fruticosa, 161, 163 
 
 Missouriensis, 163 
 
 speciosa, 163 
 Oleaster, 265 
 Orchard grass, 69 
 Oriental poppy, illus. 145 
 
 (see Paparer) 
 Osier, red, 265 
 
414 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Oxalis, 235 
 
 Fwonia, illus. 369; 367 
 
 Best varieties of, 373 
 
 Colors of, 367 
 
 For cut flowers, 374 
 
 List of, 373 
 
 Moutan, illus. 372; 264 
 
 Mulch for, 368 
 
 officinalis, 160 
 
 Sensitive varieties of, 371 
 
 Single, illus. 371 
 
 Soil for, 368 
 
 tenuifolia, 160 
 
 Tree (see P. Moutan) 
 
 Value of, 367 
 Palms, 351, 352 
 Pandanus, 351, 354 
 Fapaver nudicaule, illus. 145; 
 161 
 
 orientale, illus. 145; 161 
 Paris daisy, illus. 330; 351 
 Parlor ivy, 350 
 Peat (see Soil) 
 Pentstemon harhatus, 163 
 
 laevigatus, 161 
 
 ovatus, 163 
 Peony (see Pceonia) 
 Perennials, hardy herbaceous, 
 99, 134 
 
 Arrangement of, 167 
 
 Best varieties of, 157 
 
 Classification of, 134 
 
 Cultivation of, 167 
 
 Division of, 151, 152 
 
 Number of varieties, 136 
 
 Planting, 142 
 
 Preparation of beds for, 144 
 
 Propagation by cuttings, 
 156 
 
 Raising from seed, 148 
 
 Short-lived, 151 
 
 Succession of bloom of, 158 
 
 Watering of, 168 
 
 Winter protection of, 140 
 
 With shrubs, 169 
 
 Petunia, illus. 114; 114, 120, 
 
 351 
 Philadelphus, 259, 264 
 Phlox, 374 
 
 Annual, illus. 100; 120 
 
 Best varieties of, 377 
 
 Cultivation of, 376 
 
 decussata, 376 
 
 divaricata, illus. 377; 160 
 
 Drummondii, illus. 100; 
 133 
 
 Dwarf varieties of, 378 
 
 Lists of, 377 
 
 Mulch for, 376 
 
 paniculata, illus. 375; 163, 
 164, 376, 378 
 
 Planting, 376 
 
 subulata, 160 
 
 suffruticosa, 376, 377 
 Physostegia Virgmiana, illus. 
 
 154; 164 
 Pieris floribunda, 256, 263, 
 264 
 
 Mariana, 264 
 Pilea arhorea, 351 
 Pink (see Dianthus) 
 
 Annual, 120 
 Finns Mughus, 264 
 Planning, 12 
 
 Before building, 25 
 
 Conditions governing, 24 
 
 Drawing to scale, 21 
 
 Elementary, 22 
 
 For harmonious effect, 37 
 
 On paper before planting, 
 35 
 
 Principles of, 13 
 Plans (see planning) 
 
 How to draw, 35 
 
 What to include in, 36 
 Plantain in lawns, 66 
 Plantain lily, illus. 166 
 
 (see Funkia) 
 Flantanus accidentalis, 289 
 Planting, examples of, 19 
 
INDEX 
 
 415 
 
 Platycodon grandiflortmi, 
 
 illus. 148; 163 
 Plum, 264 
 
 Polemonium cceruleum, 160 
 Poplar, 289 
 Poppy, 114, 120 
 (see Papaver) 
 
 Iceland, 151 
 
 Oriental, illus. 145 
 
 Shirley, illus. 110 
 Populus alba, 289 
 Porch boxes, 120 
 
 Construction of, 128 
 
 Dimensions of, 127 
 
 Fertilizer for, 131 
 
 Plants for, 132 
 
 Soil for, 130 
 
 Uses of, 123 
 
 Value of, 121 
 
 Watering, 132 
 Portulaca, 120 
 Potentilla fruticosa, 263 
 Pot marigold, illus. 116; 120 
 Potting, 235 
 Primrose, 351 
 Primula, 160, 352 
 Principles of planning, 31 
 Privet, 263 
 Prunus, 264 
 Purpose of a yard, 16 
 Pyrethrum roseum, 161 
 
 Quercus palustris, 289 
 rubra, 289 
 
 Rambler, Crimson, 90 
 Ramblers (see vines) 
 Red root, 264 
 Repotting, 235 
 Rhamnus, 265 
 
 Rhododendron, illns. '>60 • 
 255, 264 
 Cataivbiense, 264 
 Rlfodotypos. 264 
 Rhus, 254 
 liibes floridum, 263 
 
 Richardia, 235, 351 
 Roman hyacinths 
 
 (see Hyacinth) 
 Roses, 357 
 
 Bourbon, 363 
 
 Climbing, 90, 364 
 
 Crimson Rambler, 90 
 
 Dorothy Perkins, 90 
 
 Fertilizer for, 361 
 
 For shrubberies, 304 
 
 Gen. Jacqueminot, illus. 
 359; 362, 363 
 
 Grafted, 358 
 
 Hardy perpetual, 362 
 
 Hybrid perpetual, 303 
 
 Hybrid tea, 363 
 
 Japanese, 263 
 
 Noisette, 364 
 
 On own roots, 358 
 
 Planting of, 357 
 
 Pruning of, 361 
 
 Tea, 364 
 
 Trellis, 303 
 
 Wichuraiana, 90 
 
 Winter protection of, 360 
 Rubus, 265 
 Rudbeckia, 166 
 
 ladniata (golden glow) 
 illus.. 158; 164 
 
 triloba, 164 
 Rules for planting, 31 
 
 St. John's Wort, 263. 264 
 Salix alba, 289 
 Sambucus, 264, 265 
 Sanguinaria Canadensis, 159 
 Scabiosa. annual, 120 
 
 Caucasica, 101 
 Scilla, 210 
 
 Amoena, 188 
 
 Depth to plant, 214 
 
 ^ibirica, 210 
 Screw pine, 354 
 ^edum specfabile, 16(5 
 Selaginella dentirtilata. 351 
 Senecio, 350 
 
416 
 
 INDEX 
 
 inikanioides, 351 
 pulcher, 166 
 
 Shasta daisy, illus. 163 
 (see Chrysanthemurn) 
 
 Shirley 'poppy, illus. 163 
 (see Fapaver) 
 
 Shrubs, 240 
 
 Blooming in spring, 264 
 Blooming two months, 263 
 Compared to trees, 243 
 Cultivation of, 252 
 Effectiveness of, 245 
 Evergreen, 255, 264 
 For city yard, 257 
 For shaded situations, 263 
 Grouping of, 246, 252 
 List of best hardy, 263 
 Planting of, 251 
 Pruning of, 252 
 Spraying, 261 
 Uses of, 248 
 Value of, 248, 254 
 Varieties of, 253 
 When to plant, 261 
 Winter protection of, 252 
 With ornamental fruit, 265 
 With variegated foliage, 
 264 
 
 Silene, 120 
 
 Smilax, 351 
 
 Smoke bush, (see Rhus) 
 
 Snapdragon, illus. 105; 133 
 ( see An tirrhin u m ) 
 
 Snowball, 264 (see Virbur- 
 num ) 
 
 Snowberry, 263, 265 
 
 Snowdrop, 188 
 
 (see Galanthus) 
 
 Snowflake, 188 
 
 (see Leucojum ) 
 
 Sod for lawns, 50 
 (see Lawns) 
 
 Soil, 293 
 Clay, 290 
 
 Composition of, 295 
 Cultivation of, 301 
 
 Fertilizing of, 303 
 
 Good garden, 298 
 
 Humus, 296 
 
 Leaf mold, 296 
 
 Mixtures of, 297 
 
 Peat, 296 
 
 Trenching of, 302 
 Solidago, 166 
 Soot (see Fertilizers) 
 Specimen planting, 32 
 i<j)ircea, 253, 260, 264 
 
 Aruncus, illus. 155; 161 
 
 Filipenditla, illus. 135; 162 
 
 lobata, 163 
 
 palmata, 162 
 
 prunifolia, 260 
 
 Thunbergii, 260 
 
 Tan Houttei, illus. 241; 
 260 
 Squill (see Scilla) 
 ^tachys Betonica, 163 
 Stagger-bush, 264 
 Stat ice Tatarica, 163 
 Stocks, illus. 110; 120 
 Stoke's aster, illus. 147 ; 163 
 Stokesia cyanea, illus. 147 ; 
 
 163 
 Strawberry bush, 265 
 Summer hyacinth, 237 
 Sunflower, 114, 120 
 Swainsonia, 351 
 Swamp Rose, illus. 143 
 Sweet alyssum, 114, 120, 351 
 Sweet-peas, illus. 112; 120 
 Sweet pepper, 263, 264 
 Sweet-scented shrub, 263 
 Sweet sultan, 114 
 Sweet William, illus. 143 
 Sycamore, 289 
 Symphoiicarpos, 263 
 
 racemosus, 265 
 Syringa (see Philadelphus) 
 Syringa, 253, 259 
 
 vulgaris, 264 
 
 Tecoma radicals, 95 
 
INDEX 
 
 417 
 
 Thalictrum aquilegifolium, 
 
 1G2 
 Thennopsis Carofiniana, 1G2 
 Thunbergia, 133 
 Thunbergian lily, illus. 216 
 Tiger lily, illus. 211 
 Tigiidia, 235 
 Tilia Americana, 289 
 
 vulgaris, 289 
 Torch lily, illus. 185 
 Tradescantia, 351 
 Virginiana, 1G3 
 Trees, 260 
 
 Bordering parks, 271 
 Bordering streets, 272 
 Cultivation of, 284 
 Enemies of, 290 
 Evergreen, 285 
 How to plant, illus. 267 
 In city yards, 260, 274 
 Insect pests of, 291 
 Objection to, 240 
 Of Heaven, 289 
 Planting. 283 
 Pruning, 275, 277 
 Transplanting of, 277, 281 
 Varieties of, 288 
 Watering, 285 
 Wrong use of, 268 
 Trellises, 97 
 Trenching, 302 
 Trillium erectum, 159 
 Trollius Europwus, illus. 141- 
 
 160, 162 
 Trumpet creeper, 95 
 Tuberose, 235 
 Tuberous-rooted plants, 170 
 
 (see Bulbs) 
 Tulip, 194, 203 
 Bizarre, 208 
 Breeder, 208 
 Bybloemen, 208 
 Classification of, 205 
 Darwin, 208 
 Double, 205, 206 
 Early single, 205 
 
 Florist, 208 
 
 For pots, 346 
 
 In borders, 204 
 
 Lifting, 204 
 
 May-flowering, illus. i74 
 and 203; 207 
 
 Mother, 208 
 
 Parrot, illus. 203; 206 
 
 Preparation of beds for, 
 204 
 
 Rose, 208 
 
 Season for planting. 203 
 
 Self, 208 
 
 Show, 208 
 
 Winter protection of, 204 
 Tulip tree, 289 
 Turf for lawns, 49 
 
 Laying of, 50 
 
 Watering, 50 
 
 Ulmaria Filipendula, illus. 
 135 
 
 (see ^pircea Filipendula) 
 Ulmus Americana, 289 
 
 campestris, 289 
 Umbrella plant, 133 
 
 Verno7iia Arkansana, 104 
 Veronica, illus, 105 
 
 Ion gi folia, 103, 104 
 
 rupestris, 102 
 
 Virginica, 103 
 Viburnum, 259, 204 
 
 lantana, 205 
 
 opulus, 205 
 
 j)licatum, 200 
 Vinca, 133, 351 
 Vines, 75 
 
 Annual, 80, 90 
 
 Bulbous, 238 
 
 Classification of, 77 
 
 Cultivation of, 82 
 
 Fertilizers for, 84 
 
 For indoor gardens, 350, 
 351 
 
 Perennial, 80, 87 
 
418 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Pruning of, 85 
 
 Soil for, 81 
 
 Supports for, 97 
 
 Uses of, 76 
 
 Value of, 75 
 
 Varieties of, 87-98 
 Violet, 351 
 Virginia creeper, 87 
 
 Walks, 28 
 
 Course of, 29 
 
 Planning of, 34 
 Wayfaring tree, 265 
 Weeds, in lawns, 66 
 Weigelia, 264 
 Wichuraiana rose, 90 
 Willow, 289 
 Window boxes, 120 
 Window garden, 329 
 
 Bulbs for, 339, 346 
 
 Ferns for, 356 
 
 Fertilizer for, 337 
 
 Flowers for, 348, 350, 351 
 
 Foliage plants for, 348, 351 
 
 Hyacinths for, 343 
 
 Location of, 332 
 
 Narcissi for, 340 
 
 Plants for, 339 
 
 Potting, 335 
 
 Repotting, 335 
 
 Soil for, 332 
 
 Sunless, 351 
 
 Temperature of, 348 
 
 Tulips for, 346 
 
 W^atering, 336 
 
 Vines for, 350, 351 
 Winter aconite, 188 
 
 (see Eranthis) 
 Wistaria Chinensis, 95 
 
 multijuga, 95 
 
 speciosa, 95 
 Witch-hazel (see hamamelis) 
 Wolfberry, 263 
 Wood ashes, 58 
 
 (see Fertilizer) 
 Woodbine, ilhis. 89; 88 
 
 Zephyranthes, 235 
 Zinnia, illus. 102: 120 
 
Mm 21 ii08 
 
S!^^ ^ CONGRESS 
 
 OODO^SbOSS^f