M Class UC|N^ Book £Jq1_ / s s. HAND-BOOK FOK EUEOPEAN TOURISTS THROUGH BELGIUM, HOLLAND, THE EHINE, GERMANY, SWITZERLAND, ITALY, AND ERANCE : INCLUDING A FULL DESCRIPTION OF PARIS; THE CHANNEL ISLANDS; THE FASHIONABLE CONTINENTAL SPAS, WITH BEMABKS ON THE NATURE OF MINERAL WATEE8 BY ENGLISH AND KBSIDENT PHYSICIANS ; TEN MINUTES- ADVICE ON SEA-SICKNESS; A CUSTOM-HOUSE GUIDE; AND A LIST OF THE STEAIVl PACKETS TO AND rUOM ALL THE FOREIGN PORTS; CONTINENTAL RAILWAYS, WITH FARES, HOURS OF DEPARTURE, AND REGULATIONS. BY FEANCIS COGHLIN, Author of Guides to London, Paris, St. Petersburgh, The Rhine, Switzerland, Belgium, Holland, &c. SECOND EDITION. ENLARGED AND IMPROVED. Illustrated by a New and Original Map of Europe ; with aU the Railways open, in progress, and proposed ; and Panorama of the Rhine from Cologne to Mayence. LONDON: H. HUGHES, 15, ST. MARTIN'S LE GRAND. BRUSSELS: C. MUQUARDT. LEIPSIG : TAUCHNITZ, Juk, 1847. LONDON : THOS. HARBILD, PRINTER, SILVER STRKKT, FALCON SQUARK. PEEFiOE TO THE SECOND EDITION. The rapid and unprecedented sale of the first and second editions of the Hand-book for Central Europe, renders an apology for the appearance of a new edition for 1847, it is presumed, unnecessary. Considerable additions, improvements, and corrections up to the present time have been introduced ; and the whole line of route from Hamburg to Vienna, including those cities, entirely re- written. A new edition of the Hand-book for Italy, complete in one Volume, is also published ; and, without any pretensions to ^ne writing, there is every reason to hope it will prove a useful Com- panion to travellers through that interesting count^5^ April, 1847. Higt of 33oo]kseners WHERE COGHLAn's HATSD-BOOKS MAT BE HA1>. Aix'la-Chapelle Meyer. jimsterdam Frederick Muller. Antwerp Kornicker. Baden-Baden Marx. Basle Waltz. Schweighauser. Berlin . Asher. Berne Burgdorfe. Bologna . Rusconi freres. Bonn Henry and Cohen. Boulogne Watel. Brighton Folthorp. Brussels Muquardt. Calais - Le Roi Carlsruhe Bielefeld. Coblentz Hergt. Cologne . Eisen. Kohnan. Dover Batchellor. Dresden Arnold. Florence Molini. Frankfort Jiigel. Wilmans. Hermann. Geyieva Briquet and Dubois. Desrogis. Ge7ioa Beuf. Hamburg Perthes and Co. Havre . Hondaille. Heidelberg Mohr. Lausanne Rouiller. Leipsic . B. Tauchnitz Leghorn Nanni, successor to Gamba. Lucerne Meyer. Mannheim Artaria and Fontaine. Mayence Zabern. Faber. Milan Artaria. Dumolard. Molinari. Munich . J. G. Cotta. Naples . Glass, Puzziello, & English Library Paris Galignani. Pisa Nistri. Rams gate Burges and Hunt. Rome , Monaldini. Rotterdam Mrs. Krapp. Southampton Fletcher and Son Turin Bocca. Venice . Vallardi. PREFACE. In the years 1888, 1889, 1840, when the hand-books of Mr Murray appeared in such rapid succession, embracing most parts of the Continent, and anticipating by announcement every corner of Europe ; and throwing " net works," as he called them, not only over those spots little frequented by English travellers, but scarcely ever visited ; I thought it unnecessary to republish any of my original works ; but the editions in 1842-43 have so overloaded the tourist that he cries out, with some appearance of reason, " Hold hard, there !" What, three hand-books for Italy, two for Germany, one for France (not including Paris), and one for Switzerland ; making, in all, eight volumes of goodly size for a continental tour ! The Hand-Book for CENTRAL EUROPE is compiled for the use of those who do not require a travelling library, but such as merely pass through a country by the high-ways, avoiding the by- ways, and stopping only at the most attractive places. For those who prefer visiting every place, in every direction, this Guide is not intended. It will, however, be readily seen that the most interesting places, such as Paris, Brussels, the Rhine, the German Watering- places, Switzerland, and Jersey and Guernsey, have been so fully described as to render local guides unnecessary ; and general hints respecting luggage, modes of travelling, expenses, in short, every information in the least likely to be useful to travellers has been inserted. 1 Vi PREFACE. In the compilation, however, I have not had the good fortune to be aided by the hints or suggestions of numerous travellers. The golden idea of an author inviting travellers to correct faulty Guide- books originated with Mr Murray. No plan could be cheaper or better calculated to render second editions^ what few first editions are, correct ; and the evident improvements which have resulted tempts me to solicit the kind offices of my readers in the words of the writer of the Hand-books. " That such a work can be faultless is impossible ; and the Author has therefore to throw himself on the indulgence of his readers to excuse the inaccuracies (numerous no doubt) which may occur in the course of it, especially in the first edition, in spite of the care taken to avoid them ; and he most particularly requests all who make use of it to favour him, through his publishers, with a notice of any mistakes or omissions which they may discover, such communications will be carefully attended to, in the event of a new edition being required." London, May 1st, 1844. / INTEODUCTION. PASSPORT, The first business previous to visiting the Continent is to obtain permission, i. e. a passport, from the ambassador or consul of the country you may wish to visit. For the Rhine, via Rotterdam, it will be necessary to apply to the Netherlands Consul, 123 Fen- church street, City ; where a passport can be obtained on the first application upon payment of five shillings. Should the traveller be going through Belgium, it will be necessary to get a passport from the Belgian Minister, No. 9 a, Weymouth street, from 11 till 3 ; and he must then get the signature of a Prussian Ambassador ; or a vist- can be obtained at Rotterdam from the Prussian Consul for a trifling consideration. To obtain a French passport, personal application may he made at the office, daily, from one till three o'clock. Appli- cants, in the first instance, are supplied with a paper to be filled up at leisure with name, profession, age, &c. ; the passport may be obtained the following day in the order the applicants arrive, which is regulated by numbers. Ladies are admitted immediately. Should the case be of a pressing nature, though not sufficient to warrant a deviation from the established rules of the office at the Ambassador's, by applying to the French Consul, between eleven and four daily, a passport may be obtained by paying a fee of ten shillings. Members of Parliament, and other privileged persons, may obtain a passport on their first application. Passports may also be obtained from the French Consuls at Dover, Brighton, and Southampton, for which ten shillings each is -charged. The Prussian and Austrian Ambassadors in London invariably refuse passports, except to natives of their respective dominions, but the former will countersign a passport of another Embassy, which the latter will not ; but this is of little consequence, as the Austrian signature may be readily obtained in Paris, Brussels, Frankfort, Carlsruhe, Berne, &c., or any residence of an Austrian Minister ; without which, it should he always recollected, travellers cannot enter any part of the Austrian dominions, or even visit the lakes of Coma or Maggiore, Tin INTRODUCTION. — PASSPORTS. FOREIGN OFFICE PASSPORT. It is perfectly unnecessary to apply for a passport at the Foreign Office, unless indeed you labour under the vague impression that it will save you trouble ; this is not the case, the people of the Foreign Office may tell you so, but it is a mistake ; those, however, who prefer one, must have a letter written by his banker or some person to whom he is known, and addressed to the Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, stating his wish, and inscribed on the outside, Passport. The passport will be granted the next day, on payment of 21 7s. 6d. The passports of travellers were formerly demanded at every fortified town, and examined by the officer on duty ; this is now seldom done. In many places the master of the hotel will put before him a ruled paper, which he must fill up, and sign his name, place of abode, profession, &c. PASSPORTS IN SWITZERLAND Are seldom required travelling ; it is, however, better to carry it about your person. At Geneva, the Sardinian Consul charges four francs for his signature ; without which, or that of a Sardinian Minister, travellers are not allowed to enter Savoy, of which the valley of Chamounix forms part. The cream of the passport business (for a business it is undoubt- edly) is to attend strictly to the following instructions : — 1st. Before quitting England be sure to obtain a passport ; always, if possible, from the Minister or Consul of the country you may first enter. 2ud. Before attempting to quit one state for another, obtain the vise of that you are about to enter. 3rd. Before applying for the signature of a foreign, always obtain the vise of the British Minister. 4th. Always carry your passport about your person. A passport case, with leaves like a book, is the best way of car- rying it. Mr Lee, 440 West Strand, has always a great variety on hand. RESIDENCES OF FOREIGN AMBASSADORS AND CONSULS. PASSPORTS OBTAINED AT EACH. America - - Ambassador's residence, 46 Grosvenor place ; Consul's office, 1 Bishops- gate churchyard. Austria - - - Ambassador's residence, 7 Chandos street, Cavendish square. Baden - - - Consul's office, 6 Great Winchester street. > Bavaria - - - Ambassador's residence, 3 Hill street, Berkeley square ; Consul's office, 11 Bury's court, St Mary Axe. Belgium - - - Ambassador's residence, 50 Portland place ; Passport office, 9 a Wey- mouth street, Portland place. MONEY. IX Brazil - - - Ambassador's residence, 10 York place, Portman square; Consul's office, 3 Howford btiildings, Fenchurch street. Denmark - - Ambassador's residence, 30 Wilton crescent ; Consul's office, 6 Warn- ford court, Throgmorton street. Frankfort - • Consul's office, 12 Broad street buildings. France - - - Ambassador's residence, Manchester house, Manchester square ; Pass- port offices 6 Poland street, Oxford street ; Consul's office, 3 Cop- thall buildings, Copthall court. Hanover - - Ambassador's residence, 44 Grosvenor place ; Consul's office, 6 Circus, Minories. Netherlands - Ambassador's residence, 25 Wilton crescent; Consul's office, 123 Fen- church street. Prussia - - - Ambassador's residence, 4 Carlton terrace; Consul's office, 105 Fen- church street. Russia - - - Ambassador's residence, 30 Dover street, Piccadilly ; Consul's office, 1 Copthall buildings, City. Sardinia - - Ambassador's residence, 11 Grosvenor street; Consul's office, 31 Old Jewry. Portugal - - Ambassador's residence, 57 Upper Seymour street ; Consul's office, 27 New Broad street. City. Saxony - - - Ambassador's residence, 8 Chesterfield street, May Fair ; Consul's office, 76 Cornhm. Sicily - - - Ambassador's residence, 15 Princes street. Cavendish square. Spain - - - - Ambassador's residence, 2 Cumberland street, Portman square ; Con- sul's office, 37 Broad street chambers. Old Broad street. Sweden - - - Ambassador's residence, 13 Halkin street, Belgrave square; Consul's office, 27 Great St Helen's, Bishopsgate street. MONEY. Travellers proceeding to the Continent, who might not feel dis- posed to carry any large sum about them, may supply themselves with Circular Exchange Notes, which may be obtained of any re- spectable banker in London, letters of credit, or bills of exchange, payable at any of the cities and principal commercial towns in foreign countries. The circular notes are drawn at seven days' sight, but are always paid on presentation, unless there is ground for suspicion. Their value is reduced into foreign money, at the current usance course of exchange on London, at the time and place of payment, subject to no deduction for commission, or any other charge whatever, unless the payment be required in some particular coin which bears a premium. They are, therefore, superior to any other mode of con- veying money, particularly letters of credit, which should never be taken abroad, unless it is the intention of the bearer to become stationary in one place. The exchange of course fluctuates with the fluctuations of com- merce ; but the usual value of the \l. sterling in the Netherlands is about 11 florins 90 cents, and on the Rhine about 6 dollars 20 groschen, or 12 fl. Here it may be as well to observe that much caution is requisite when changing the money of one country for another. By reference to the tables, the relative value will easily be discovered. The florin of 60 kreutzers is now current in all parts of Germany. In Belgium and Switzerland French money is current, and the hotel keepers make out their bills in francs. Nothing can now be more simple than the monetary system. INTRODUCTION. — MONEY. DUTCH COINS. The money is sometimes calculated in guilders, or florins and cents, and sometimes in guilders, or florins and stivers. Silver. Florin or Guilder. Stivers. Cents. English. 1 - - is 20 - - 100 - - or Is. 8d. 3 - - 60 - - 800 - - 5 There are also pieces of half-florins, quarter-florins, and ten and five-cent, pieces. The above coins will pass at Nymegen, and on board the packet to Cologne, at which place you must supply yourself with Prussian money. Travellers by land will find it necessary to make the ex- change at Dusseldorf. The Dutch 10-guilder piece is the best gold for Belgium, Holland, and Germany ; as they are generally paid by bankers at 9 fl. 85 or 90 c. Innkeepers and shops allow the full value. FRENCH MONEY. d. 5 centimes - - - 1 sou - - - ^ English 10 ditto - - - - 2 ditto - - - 1 ditto 10 sous - _ - - half a franc - 5 ditto 20 ditto . - - - 1 franc - - - 10 ditto Other silver coins, 1 ^ franc, 2 francs, 5 francs ; the gold coins are the Napoleon, 20 francs ; the new Louis, 20 francs ; and the double Napoleon, 40 francs. Accounts in France are kept in francs and centimes. Sovereigns are the best money to take to France, and Napoleons are the most profitable coins to take into Switzerland. French money and the French language pass all over the Continent. For the sake of comparison, tables of the relative value of the coin of each country ; but for ordinary purposes, in travelling through Belgium, Prussia, Frankfort, the Duchies of Nassau, Darm- stadt, and BadeU; it is useful to know that PRUSSIAN MONEY, £. S. d, 1 Prussian dollar (thaler) is 30 silver groschen, or . 3 1 Silver groschen is 12 pfenning . , . .001^ 1 Florin (called gulden) 60 kreutzers . . .018 ^ Florin 30 ditto . . . . 10 There are pieces of 6, 3, and 1 kreutzers. The Prussian pieces of 10, 5, 2^ silver groschen are also current ; they are marked 8 ein thaler, 6 ein thaler, and 12 ein thaler ; against the florins they count 35, 17^, and 8^ kreutzers ; against English money they count as 1 shilling, 6 pence, and 3 pence. INTROD UCTION. GERMAN MONEY. •XI Table for reducing various coins at the usual rate of exchange into Prussian thalers. Example : a sovereign is worth 6 thalers 20 sgr. ; a ten-pound note would produce 66 thalers 20 sgr. o Vl CO -2 6 03 '^ ■•*1 O ft •So P-I "^ =3 Pieces of 5 frcs. o 0) ^ Th. Sgr. Th. Sgr. Th. Sgr. Th. Sgr. Th. Sgr. Th. Sgr. Th. Sgr. Th. Sgr. 1 6 20 5 20 5 20 3 4 5 11 1 10 8 1 16 2 13 13 11 10 11 10 6 8 10 22 2 20 — 16 3 2 3 20 — 17 — 17 — 9 12 16 3 4 — — 24 4 18 4 26 20 22 20 22 20 12 16 21 14 5 10 1 2 6 4 5 33 10 28 10 28 10 15 20 26 25 6 20 1 10 7 20 6 40 — 34 — 34 — 18 24 32 6 8 1 18 9 6 7 45 20 39 20 39 20 21 28 37 17 9 10 1 26 10 22 8 53 10 45 10 45 10 25 2 42 28 10 20 2 4 12 8 9 60 — 51 — 51 — 28 6 28 9 12 — 2 12 13 24 10 66 20 56 20 56 20 31 10 53 20 13 10 2 20 15 10 DUCHIES OF NASSAU, BADEN, HAMBURG, DARMSTADT, AND FRANKFORT, MONEY TABLE, Showing the number of florins and kreutzers given in exchange for the various coins current in Germany. To reduce them into English money it is only necessary to recollect that three kreutzers are about equal to one penny ; consequently 36 would be one shilling. A pound sterling is generally received at 12 florins. Gold. k. Dutch 5- 32 Ducat Dutch 10-flor .piece 9 50 „ 10 — , Frederic fl. k. fl. English sovereign 11 50 to 12 French Napoleon 9 20 „ 9 flor. fl. k. fl. k.- 4 55 to 5 — 5 SO „ 5 36 9 40 „ 9 50 Silver. 5-Franc piece 2-Franc piece 1-Franc piece fl. 2 20 56 28 30 Sous 10 Sous fl. k. — 42 — 14 TABLE CONVERTING FLORINS INTO FRANCS, AND FRANCS INTO FLORINS. Florins. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 rancs Cents. Francs. 2 14 1 4 29 2 6 43 3 8 57 4 10 72 5 12 86 6 15 — 7 17 14 8 Florins. Kreuz. — 28 — 56 1 24 1 52 2 20 2 48 3 16 3 44 su INTRODUCTION. — SWISS MONEY. Florins. Francs. Cents. Francs. Florins. Kreuz 9 . . . 19 29 9 . 4 12 10 , . . 21 43 10 . 4 40 20 . . . 42 86 20 . 9 20 80 . . . 64 29 80 . ; 14 — 40 . . . 85 72 40 . 18 40 50 . . . 107 14 50 . 23 20 60 . . . 128 57 60 . 28 — 70 . 150 — 70 . . 82 40 80 . 171 43 80 . 87 20 90 . . 192 86 90 . 42 — 100 . 214 29 100 . 46 40 500 . . 1071 43 500 . . 233 20 1000 . . 2142 86 SWISS 1000 . MONEY. . 466 40 The complicated tables of coins published in almost every work relating to Switzerland can, to a person merely passing through the different cantons, be only embarrassing. The only thing I found necessary to understand was, how many batz went to a French franc, how many French francs to a Swiss franc, and how many Swiss batz to a five-franc piece. Although each canton has its own coin, which are distinguished by the several names of florins, batzen, rappen, angsters, deniers, hallars, and schillings ; and although the people of one canton will not take the coin of their neighbour, yet I never found any one person throughout my whole tour but whose eyes glistened at the sight of a five-franc piece. Indeed, the ac- counts are kept, and bills made out in French francs. If you get money from a banker, he will give it in five-franc pieces, or his own notes at fifty or a hundred francs each ; in short, as far as money is concerned, you could fancy yourself in France. Travellers taking- cash with them, instead of circular notes, should always prefer Napoleons to sovereigns. Except in the large towns, the people did not know the difference between a Napoleon and a sovereign, and invariably offered twenty francs for the latter. A Swiss franc is ten batz, or one franc and a half French ; seven batz is usually reckoned as one French franc ; one batz is about three sous French, or ten rappen ; a five-franc piece is usually reckoned at thirty-four and a half batz, sometimes at thirty-five. The bankers in Switzerland issue notes, which are readily taken at hotels and shops in the canton, without any deduction ; but if they cash each other's notes, they charge half per cent, discount : it is a very trifling loss compared with the inconvenience of carrying a bag full of silver by way of a balance across the mountains. N.B. It is always to he understood that French francs are meant, unless expressed to the contrary, in Switzerland. XUl COMPARATIVE TABLE OF MONEY, SHOWING THE VALUE OF FOREIGN COINS COMPARED WITH ENGLISH. France and Prussia Dutch. English. Belgium. Fr. Ct. Thl. Sgr. Pf. Fl. Cents. £. So. d. Far. 1 1 oi 2 2 1 1 5 5 2i 2 10 9 H 1 20 1 7 9 2 30 2 5 14 2 3 40 3 3 19 3 3 50 4 23 4 3 60 4 9 28 5 3 70 5 7 33 6 3 80 6 5 38 7. 2 90 7 2 42 8 2 1 8 47 9 2 2 16 94 1 7 3 24 1 41 2 4 2 4 1 2 1 89 3 1 3 5 1 10 2 36 3 11 1 6 1 18 2 83 4 8 3 7 1 26 3 30 5 6 1 8 2 4 3 78 6 3 3 9 2 12 4 25 7 1 1 10 2 20 4 72 7 10 2 11 2 28 5 19 8 8 12 3 06 5 67 9 5 2 13 3 14 6 14 IQ 3 14 3 22 6 61 11 2 15 4 00 7 08 11 10 16 4 08 7 56 12 7 2 17 4 16 8 03 13 4 3 18 4 24 8 50 14 2 1 19 5 02 8 97 14 11 3 20 5 10 9 45 15 9 1 21 5 18 9 92 16 6 3 22 5 26 10 39 17 4 1 23 6 04 10 86 18 1 2 24 6 12 11 34 18 11 25 6 20 11 81 19 8 2 Although foreign money is not a legal tender in Belgium or Ger- many, it is received at the railway offices at the following rates of exchange : — 1 Prussian Frederic - - - - fr. 21 1 Pistole - - - - - 20 75 XIV 1 Ducat - - - - - fr. 11 50 1 Sovereign - - - - - 25 20 1 Dutch florin - - - - 2 50 1 French crown - - - - 5 70 1 Brabant thaler - - - - 5 68 1 Prussian ditto - - - - 3 70 1 Dutch (lO^fiorin piece) - - - 21 16 A FEW HINTS ON SEA -SICKNESS. TEN MINUTES ADVICE. The comforts and conveniences of sea-travelling have been brought to a degree of perfection which some years ago was not even con- templated. Owners and captains of vessels find it their interest now to rival each other in providing suitable accommodation for passengers, both male and female. The dangers of the sea, and the hardships to which navigation, under the most judicious direction is exposed, from many uncontrollable events, require that every pre- caution should be adopted consistent equally with the safety of the ship and those on board. There is one distressing circumstance of very early occurrence among sea-travellers, which hangs over their heads in terrorem long before they meet it, and which frequently carries with it a greater dread than either storm or wreck ; amounting, indeed, in many in- stances, to a complete prohibition of travelling by water ; and where, as in the generality of cases, it is peculiarly distressing, no adequate idea can be formed of its severity. We allude to that giddiness of the head, nausea, and vomiting, well known under the name of sea- sickness, — a subject to which we shall shortly have occasion to re- turn. As sea-travelling constitutes an active kind of bodily motion, it is frequently resorted to by convalescents, and to consumptive patients it often is the last resource, but it is wrong to delay it till all other remedies have failed ; for it is not in the last stage of consumption, when the lungs are ulcerated, or when an abscess has discharged its contents into the chest, and that the thin acrimonious matter has been communicated to the blood, that benefit can be expected from sea voyages. The changes of sea and climate, indeed, powerfully co-operate in effecting changes in the human system ; but if the disease has preyed too much on the vitals of a patient, or if he is spitting blood, the motion of the vessel must necessarily prove inju- rious. On the other hand, the debilitated, the nervous, and parti- cularly the hypochondriacal, cannot resort to a better remedy than a short voyage. XV Sea air is prescribed by physicians in a variety of complaints, such as those already mentioned, in consequence of it being considered of a more healthy nature than that on land ; though, in its component parts, it is not known to possess a greater quantity of the vital prin- ciple, or oxygen, on which health depends. It is, nevertheless, ac- knowledged to be a most powerful and valuable remedy, and is resorted to with decided success in most cases accompanied with debility. It is recommended, previous to embarking on a sea voyage, to take some gentle aperient medicine, as a necessary preliminary, by way of counteracting the effects which may arise not only from sudden change of air, but from equally sudden change of diet. SECURING A BERTH. By a berth on ship-board is understood that part of the vessel (abaft, midships, or forwards) which you may choose to occupy, or which may be assigned to you as your place during the passage, and particularly that place where you sleep. The following are relative advantages which are not unworthy of consideration : — In midships, that is, about the middle of the ship, there is less motion than farther forward or nearer the stern ; consequently, an individual is neither so liable nor so soon attacked by sea-sickness here, and is sooner relieved from it than any other person, equally predisposed, whose berth may be nearer the bows or closer to the stern ; in consequence of the greater motions at these extremes, which always increases or diminishes in proportion as you recede from, or advance towards, the centre of motion, or midships, whether it be in smooth water or a rough sea ; hence sea-sickness may be either alleviated or aggravated in the ratio of the distance from the centre of the ship. When out of bed or on deck, people attacked with sea-sickness should assume the sitting or inclined posture, and support the head, as more convenient than that of standing or walking, which never fails to increase the nausea. When sea-sickness is distressing and continues long, there is con- siderable danger, if the vomiting efforts are violent, of rupturing a biood-vessel either of the lungs or of the brain, as has frequently happened, and death has followed ; also there is danger of inducing apoplexy, and even blindness. Females are less able than males to support the concussions which sea-sickness causes to the constitution; and those of delicate habits are attacked with it from the slightest causes, and longest afflicted with it. Many, however, are fortunately exempted entirely. To remove or even to palliate the unpleasant symptoms which characterise this incidental malady, until recently, has baffled the skill of the most experienced of the faculty. Indeed, it is impossible to convey any correct notions of this sickness to one who has never XVI experienced it.* Independent of the vertigo, nausea, and vomiting, there is a prevalent languor and listlessness, an exhaustion of strength, and confusion of ideas, to which only death would seem to afford relief. After vomiting anything up that has been eaten or drank intermediately, there is a short respite to these sensations ; they, however, soon return with all their virulence, exhausting the strength of the individual, until he finds again temporary relief in the arms of confused and interrupted sleep. When the vomiting commences it should be assisted by drinking plentifully of tepid water ; and when it ceases, the patient should He down in a horizontal posture, with his head raised on a pillow and towards the stern ; and never to suffer the vomiting to conti- nue without having plenty of tepid water to clear off the stomach. This will afford the greatest relief for the time. Now, as sea-sick- ness is very frequently attended with very salutary advantages, it ought not to be suddenly checked if the symptoms are mild, but to let it continue, assisting, as already observed, the vomiting with plentiful dilution to prevent straining. A little weak brandy and water is the best drink for common use. CHANGE OF AIR, CLIMATE, AND DIET — ADMONITIONS TO TRAVELLERS, BOTH BY SEA AND LAND, IN COLD OR WARM CLIMATES. Although change of air implies some change of climate, in the ex- tended acceptation of this term, yet, by the former expression is commonly meant a removal from one place to another in the same country or climate ; though the striking improvement produced in the health by a removal for a few weeks only from the tainted at- mosphere of a city to the pure and invigorating air of the country in the same latitude, is the subject of constant observation. Even a change from one part of the country to another is often attended with remarkable benefit, and that when there is little or no appa- rent difference between the two situations. But, as the leading cir- cumstances which require consideration in prescribing change of air are, the nature of the disease, the constitution of the patient, and the quality of the air best suited to these, when the object of travel- ling either by sea or land comes strictly within the province of the physician, who will adapt the circumstances to the case, it would be superfluous hereto generalize, or point out the distinctions best suited to each. The influence of climate on the animal economy is also now so well known and appreciated by the more observant part of the pro- fession, that it would be waste of time, in a work of this nature, to enlarge upon the advantages which may be derived from a well- timed and judicious change of it in the treatment of disease, and the * Mr Beckford, in one of his letters, speaks thus of sea-sickness: " Rather than pass a month in the qualms of sea-sickness, I would consent to live three by candle-light in the deepest den you could discover, stuck close to a foul midnight hag, as mouldy as a rotten apple." XVll renovation of health. The removal, for example, from a cold, humid, and variable climate to one which is warm, dry, and more agreeable, is well known to be productive of the most beneficial effects on a large class of invalids when other therapeutical agents are of little avail ; while, on the other hand, a contrary change is as certainly attended by a deterioration of the health, and often by the super- vention of fatal diseases, even in persons previously in the enjoyment of good health. And when we reflect on the powerful influence of a warm, dry air, on almost all the functions of the animal economy, but more especially its obvious agency and equable distribution of the circulating fluids over the whole system, and particularly its effect in augmenting the activity of the circulation on the superficial vessels of the body, and in diminishing in the same proportion the congestion of the internal vessels which frequently occurs in chro- nic diseases, we have a satisfactory explanation of much of the be- nefit which invalids experience by a removal from a cold to a warm climate. Without dipping farther into this subject, the following admoni- tions are offered for the benefit of travellers either by sea or land, and particularly after sea voyages : — 1. To avoid extremes of heat and cold. 2. Never to expose yourself to the night air, if it can be avoided ; nor too much to the rays of the sun, the wind, and the rain. 3. Never to sleep upon deck, let the weather be ever so mild, and particularly by moonlight in warm climates. 4. Not to drink cold liquids while over-heated, or in a state of perspiration ; during which, to avoid all draughts or currents of air. 5. Never lie down in wet clothes, nor with wet feet. 6. Never eat or drink to repletion. 7. Keep your bowels moderately open ; and hence may be avoided many troubles both of body and mind, as well by sea as by land. As regards diet, travellers should be well acquainted with what agrees or disagrees with their constitution ; and observe those rules which custom has established in favour of their health ; at least, so far as circumstances will admit. Strict attention should be observed with regard to eating or drink- ing, dress, exercise, and rest ; conforming, at the same time, to the mode of life of the most sober class of the inhabitants of the climate in which they reside. Exercise of a violent kind after dinner, and more particularly so in warm climates than in cold ones, is hurtful ; people, therefore, who are at sea, or who travel on horseback or in a vehicle whose motion is rather violent, will act prudently if they tat and drink sparingly. Strong liquors should be taken in the greatest moderation, and always sufficiently diluted with water, in warm southern climates. The afternoon's nap (the siesta so called) though it perfectly XVlll agrees with foreigners in Spain and Italy and the East Indies, is, nevertheless, liable to bring on apoplexy in cold climates, where ani- mal food and soporiferous malt liquors are used in great quantity. Travellers, however, in warm climates, who may be invited to an afternoon's nap, ought to observe that its duration be proportioned to the quick or tardy digestion of the individual to whom it is pro- posed. A quarter of an hour, or at most, half an hour, is sufficient ; and to prevent this indulgence from being carried to an injurious excess, the sleeper should be roused before the expiration of an hour. To take the siesta, or afternoon's nap, in a horizontal position would be prejudicial. The best posture for this kind of rest is in an arm chair or a canopy, where one may be accommodated to the half-inclined position, a little turned to the left side, the head well supported and elevated. At the same time, everything likely to interrupt the circulation of the blood, such as tight collars, necker- chiefs, wristbands, garters, and ligatures of every description, ought to be removed, or violent head-ache, if nothing worse, will be expe- rienced. Sleeping with the windows open in hot climates is so unwhole- some, that many have hardly time enough to repent their impru- dence. Travellers on foot should never sleep under the shadow of a tree, nor near a hemp field. After a long journey it is unwholesome to make a plentiful meal, or sit near a great fire. In warm climates, travellers should use animal food abstemiously, particularly at supper, in order to guard against malignant fevers, which are seldom easily removed. Sweet or boiled wines, such as are met with in the papal domi- nions on the coast of the Adriatic, considerably retard digestion ; and as they have a tendency to inflame the blood, they ought to be very sparingly used. Fresh fruit, and even the ripest grapes, relax the stomach in hot climates ; and when an immoderate quantity of them is consumed at one time, particularly if bread be omitted to be eaten with them, they are productive of the most dangerous consequences. Thirst is more easily quenched by eating fresh fruit and a morsel of bread than by drinking water ; and if no fruit be at hand, it is better to add a small quantity of vinegar or the juice of a lemon to it, than to drink it by itself. Persons who have perspired freely from the heat of the sun should shelter themselves as much as possible during the falling of the dew. If this cannot be avoided, they ought, by no means, to sit down. Continual exercise is favourable to perspiration, and lessens the bad consequences to which people are exposed by the cold air. An empty stomach is more liable to infection than when it con- tains food ; travellers, therefore, should never visit a sick person in the morning before breakfast ; nor, in the presence of the sick, whe- XIX ther on ship-board, hospitals, or other places allotted for the same purpose, ought they to swallow their saliva. A glass of wine with a little sugar and lemon is a convenient safeguard on these occasions. As many of the preceding observations apply equally to cold as well as warm climates, so do the following ; and which all who value health, either at sea or on shore, will do well strictly to at- tend to. Those whose circumstances may not permit them to put on dry clothes, should keep their bodies in constant motion till the clothes become dry again by the natural heat of the body. Fresh killed meats, vegetables, and fresh fish, are preferable to any other food ; and the simpler the nourishment the better. By attention to the preceding advice, as relates to health and comfort, you will avoid the principal if not all the diseases of the climate ; and should it be your fate to be taken with any of them, your chance will be the greater in favour of recovery in the propor- tion you have endeavoured to avoid them. Indolence being a powerful promoter of the scurvy, proper exer- cise, therefore, becomes necessary, such as some active diversion of that description which imparts to the mind both pleasure and hila- rity, such as dancing, &c. The activity of the whole machine is en- livened by joy and cheerfulness ; the eyes sparkle, the action of the heart and arteries is increased, the circulation of all the fluids is more vigorous and uniform — so do they prevent, as well as facilitate the cure of, diseases in general, both by sea and land. Evacuations which are moderate, a proper state of perspiration, and all food of aperient quality and easy of digestion, may be considered as con- tributors to a joyful state of mind. A moderate degree of joy re- moves the noxious particles of the body, and, in this respect, is equal, nay superior, in salubrity to bodily exercise ; and gaiety, cheerful- ness, mirth, exultation, rapture, and ectasy, are the different de- grees of this affection, all aiding in the preservation of health, when not caried to an excess, or too long continued, GENERAL HINTS FOR TRAVELLERS. 1. Before the tourist leaves England he should endeavour to lay down a certain route, from which he should not deviate, if he can avoid it ; and also determine beforehand the place or places to which he wishes his letters to be addressed to him. 2. In travelling by the diligence in France, if in the summer or when the weather is mild, always secure a place in the coupe ; it is by far the best part for seeing the country ; but in Italy, by vettu- ini, it is the worst part of the carriage. 3. Endeavour to procure the best information about contraband goods ; and never give in a wrong name either at the gates of a town or in the town itself, in case of its running you into serious inconve- niences. 4. Always purchase the map or plan of the large towns which you visit, then go to an eminence, and with it in your hand, request your XX INTRODUCTION. — MODES OF TRAVELLING. guide to point out to you all the principal objects : in this way you will soon become acquainted even with your whereabouts. 5. Beware of having sealed letters or packets in your trunk, as you are subject to a fine, and also to be thrown into prison. 6. If you pass over a bridge or through a river in the night, never place much confidence in your postillions, who are sometimes intoxi- cated or sleepy; and never at that time traverse a large or lonely forest. 7. Always make up your luggage the night before your journey, and never leave it to be done till the last moment, unless you wish constantly to be losing something or other. 8. If you wish to economise, take a ready-furnished lodging, where you can do as you wish without observation ; and where you have to pay guards, keepers of museums, and other public places, go in company, which will materially lessen your expense in seeing them. 9. When your hotel-keeper asks you what you wish for dinner, ask him, in return, what he has got, and take that, if you can ; other- wise, if you order anything particular, you will have to pay for that and the ordinary dinner besides. If he has a table d'hote, dine at it, for you will have a much better and cheaper dinner than if you dined alone ; besides you may meet with some one who can give you very useful information about the localities of the place. 10. If you are at a bad inn, eat plain food, and do not ask for dif- ferent wines, but put up with the ordinaire ; otherwise, you will only lose your money for your pains. 11. Never let the traveller forget, that if his deportment is gen- tlemanly, obliging, and polite, he will always be better served than those who are rude and overbearing. Never quarrel about a trifle. MODES OF TRAVELLING. TRAVELLING IN BELGIUM AND HOLLAND. Posting is according to the old French system ; namely, for each horse per post, 1 fr. 50 c, for postillion, 15 c. Postillions, however, who behave well generally receive 1 fr. 50 c, which should never on any account be exceeded. Formerly one postillion was allowed to drive three horses only, but they may now drive four. This law also applies to France. The conveyances through Holland by water is explained in page 7. TRAVELLING IN FRANCE. POSTING. The French posting (Livre de Poste) is indispensable for persons travelling post : it may be had in all towns, and at the post-houses. Since the 1st. Jan. 1840, distances are no longer calculated by "postes," but by kilometres and myriametres. 1 kilometre (t. e., 1000 metres) = nearly 5 furlongs or |ths of an English mile ; 1 myriametre=10 kilom.=nearly 6j Eng. m. (or 6 m. 1 fur. 156 yds.) The postmaster's authorized charge is : — For each horse, 2 francs or 40 sous per myriametre, or 20 cen- times per kilom. INTRODUCTION. — MODES OF TRAVELLING. XXI The /7o^#i7/ion is entitled to only 1 franc per myriametre, or 10 centimes per kilom. ; but it is usual to give him 2 francs per myria- metre. The average rate of posting does not much exceed a myriametre per hour, including stoppages. In fixing the number of horses to be attached, the postmaster takes into account the nature of the carriage, and quantity of lug- gage. A landau or berlin requires four horses ; a chariot will re- quire three ; while a britzka, holding the same number of persons, will need only two. Carriages are divided into three classes : — 1. Cabriolets and light caleches, without a front seat or having one narrower than the back seat, must have two horses. 2. Limonieres, heavier carriages, chariots (coupe'es) : to these the postmaster may attach three horses, even when they contain only two persons. 3. The heaviest kind of carriages, berlines, landaus, barouches, having a front seat as wide as the back, four horses. The limitation of the number of horses on first setting out on a journey is of importance, because you are obliged to take on from every post station (except in the case of supplemental horses) the same number of horses that brought you to the relay. On hilly stages one or more extra (cheval de supplement) are required to be attached to carriages ; and at the entry into and de- parture from certain large towns the postmaster is allowed to charge for a number of kilometres exceeding the real distance of the stage. The price of posting shall always be paid in advance. No carriage shall pass another on the road, unless some accident happen to that which preceded. This does not relate to mail posts or estafettes. Each post shall be run in the space of an hour. No traveller shall force or maltreat the horses, under the penalty of making full restitution for the injury. All turnpikes, and dues on the road, shall be paid by the traveller. TRAVELLING CARRIAGES. If the traveller be accompanied by his family, or wish to pursue his journey perfectly at his ease, or with his own particular party, and have left his carriage on the other side of the water, he may hire a travelling carriage at most of the towns on the coast. These vehicles may be hired at almost any price, according to their appearance and convenience : but the usual charge for a com- fortable carriage, from Calais or Boulogne to Paris, is about 100 francs. Persons who travel in their own carriage will find a second-hand strong-built English chariot, or coach (according to the number of the family), the best ; for although foreign carriages are much cheaper at first, they do not bear half the work. A carriage for the Continent should have a drag chain, an iron shoe, and an iron XXll INTRODUCTION. — MODES OF TRAVELLING. hook, anti-attrition grease, and a box containing linch-pins, tools, nails, bolts, &c. TRAVELLING BY THE MAIL. Persons who wish to proceed rapidly may travel by the mails. These commodious vehicles are made to carry two, three, or four per- sons, and are supplied with horses at the posthouses. Each passenger may carry a sac de nuit, or portmanteau, weighing twenty -five kilograms. The price of each place is as follows : — MALLE-POSTES FROM PARIS. From the Post office, Rue J. J. Rousseau. Hours Number Length Price Destination. of of Distances. of of Departure. Places. Journey. Places. Kilometres. Hours. /. c. Besan9cn 6 P.M. 3 405 32 73 35 Bordeaux j> 3 562 36 101 15 Brest » 3 596 44 107 80 Calais . >» 2 270 18 48 65 Cherbourg »> 3 343 22 61 80 Forbach j> 2 379 25 68 10 Havre . » 2 213 13 39 40 Lille . j> 2 241 16 44 60 Limoges »> 4 380 28 68 60 Lyon » 4 468 33 84 35 Nantes . )i 3 391 26 70 90 Sedan . it 3 257 19 46 90 Strasbourg J> 3 456 33 82 95 Saint-Etienn e »» 4 460 35 82 60 TRAVELLING BY DILIGENCES. The French diligence is a most curious and unique machine ; it is a strange compound of the English stage waggon and coach ; and its singularity possesses all the conveniences of each, without their defects. The inside is divided into three bodies. In front above is what is called the cabriolet, with leathern cover, like the body of our one-horse chaise, to defend both the head and legs from the weather. These seats, which hold three persons, are the mostj pleasant part of the vehicle ; and, being elevated, afford an oppor-* tunity of seeing the country. The inside passengers are seated completely at their ease ; but the smallness of the windows, and the manner in which the seats are arranged, prevent them from enjoying much view of the country. The regulations respecting the places are admirable. The seats are all numbered, and are claimed by the travellers according to the order in which they have booked : the person who first took a place has the first choice. A conductor is attached to each machine : his proper business is to take care of the luggage, and this duty he performs with the strictest integrity. He accompanies the diligence through the whole of the journey. FARES FROM PARIS. XX 111 c c as n ,;c« e ©*. scooooo oo© © ©©©©©©© m • . • • OOO I CD J©e<>GO"^C,-^©.-*OD)<0«C5Wi««Ce s . 'ifl©©©>0©©©©©© ^ © © © © © © © © © © _ © © © m © if^ CJ CO © © I-l m 10 10 CO © 10 -* r« ^ © (N »n to 03 CO t^O © or on ifl la a tn 9i s-.o CO <^ (M N ■^ CO w •* CO ta ■* •©o©©©©©©c© o ©d©©©©©»o©©© "-' in w ■^ «0 ,!Oco«0!Nao©ao>'2>o>aeoo©©«;'0'*© © !0^!ococ^-^eo: 1- O C8 S esc:. ■So>.S5fe2S! s o as 6 <»C^.— .o5co«-<«-*coi-i-*eo — "5 .«co — N-Hrt weoM .« »« IS 3-2 •»0©U5©0©©©©©0©©©© ©©©©©©©©©©©©©©© -o>o .c^»ooi5.oos2« ^•I2^^n? ;iSco^TS.«incoe^'0(?»-'?!N«^« sqcoTC-iW — co — •0©©0©0©0©©©©©0©©0©0©©©©©0©©®©©© ^ Ci CO '^ ns-«.'r'Nir^'^Q0(»i3©Oi©C<)Cnu5CX)!N«>00r>.a)U5OC<)IM©©J>.-*a)C0 v;?S!«^^n2ct S S S?(S t(. (n t^ CO cqn-«co-(N^coTi..o(Meo(?»co- r- j^ 5 = ;q > o c ^ o ir! 3 5? fi ??r3««iv2*.-'^';^J5'« •3 • i- c^ cs 05 •_ 'cs 7i^ i, ? 3 - r- r- -,< C "3 "S •-- — -tJ Sis S tS "! t< „_, „___-- cSeScSJ-CJ= ai(u,yooOi-'-, 5j ^ £■£ S ■->o 3 Ji S _2 « ;3 00 Q« :o • c: .^"^ cs s 3 c ?J ■ o 3 > M xxiv INTRODUCTION, — MODES OF TRAVELLING. TRAVELLING IN GERMANY. There are three methods of travelling in Germany : 1. In a post- chaise ( Eootrapost). 2. In the post-coach ( Schnellpost, or Eilwa- geii). 3. Or you may travel with a hired coachman, who employs the same horses throughout the journey ( Lohnkutscher ). Each of these methods shall be separately considered. POSTING. One florin forty-five kreutzers is charged for each horse for one post of two German miles. The postmasters of large towns are en- titled to fifteen kreutzers extra. A light open carriage , holding four, without baggage, may be drawn by two horses : A heavy trunk counts as one person. If the post- boy, driving two horses, cannot sit upon the box of the carriage, fifteen kreutzers extra is charged per post. The postilion is entitled by the tarif to receive for one post : Driving two horses 40 kr. — three diito 50 „ — four ditto . , 1 fl. 5 „ The Schnellpost or Diligence travels at the rate of from six to eight English miles an hour ; and costs about one penny a mile. It is not unusual in Germany to contract with a coachman to per- form a journey of considerable length, such as 200 or 300 English miles, with the same horses ; such a coachman is called in German Lohnkutscher ; they are to be met with in most of the large towns ; the Lohnkutscher is similar to an Italian Vetturini, ready to convey travellers in every direction. At Frankfort, Mayence, Heidleberg, &c., there are, in the travelling season, plenty of returns always to be met with : the board attached to each has the name of the place to which they belong. The usual vetturini carriage is a light sort of caleche, capable of being shut in w^ith glass windows, and of accommodating four per- sons. The cost of such a conveyance is about six or seven thalers a day in southern Germany, ten to twelve florins — every charge for tolls and ferries included, except Trink-geld — about ten gros the day. TRAVELLING IN SWITZERLAND. Post horses up to the present time are only partially established in Switzerland, but the deficiency is supplied by a set of roguish voituriers, who take the liberty of charging two days' hire when the journey occupies but one ; that is, one going and one returning. It is, therefore, a bad plan, at least it is an expensive one, to engage too many carriages during a tour ; taking a carriage, for instance, at Schafi'hausen to Constance, Rhinethal to Ragatz, and back to Zurich, and there discharging it, you would have to pay but one day's return ; by the same rule, making the tour and discharging INTRODUCTION. — MODES OF TEAVELLING. XXV the voiturier at Basle, you would have but two days' return, after usino- it for six or eight weeks. The hire for a carriage and two horses is twenty francs a day, including drink-money ; carriage with one horse, twelve to fifteen francs. When not travelling, they charge half-price ; as excursions are to be made frequently, I think it is the most convenient, pleasant, and not a dear way to travel, parti- cularly if there are four in a party, taking care to order the vett to meet you at every available point ; for instance, when you are set down at Art, for the purpose of ascending the Righi, order your vett to meet you at Kussnach on the following day, to drive you to Lu- cerne. At Zurich return carriages are to be met with more plen- tiful than at any other town. The difference between a return and the others is this, that going one day's journey, you pay but for one instead of two. When hiring a carriage (not a return) to go a short distance, say from Thun to Berne, always start in the morning, which enables the vett to return to his home the same day ; thus you will save half a day's hire. e Spartivento, the uttermost verge of Calabria, 720 miles. Its breadth is very unequal, but taking it from Porto Baratto, in the territory of Sienna, to Pontasella, a village in Upper Carinthia, it may be about two hundred and eighty miles, and the whole cir- cumference 3,300 miles. It is bounded by the Alps, which separate it from Germany on the north ; by the gulf of Venice, anciently called Mare Superum, as also Sinus Adriaticus, on the east ; by the Mediterranean sea, formerly called Mare Inferum, as also Tuscum or Tyrrhenum, on the south ; and by the same sea and the Alps, which separate it from France and Savoy, on the west. XXXIV INTKOBUCTION. ITALY. — SOIL, LAKES. CLIMATE. The climate of Italy, except some places in the ecclesiastical state, is generally esteemed temperate and healthy. Upon the Apennine mountains, and in some of the countries under the Alps, the air is very cold. On the south side of the Apennines the heats are troublesome. The north side of the Apennine is more healthful and cooler than the provinces on the south, but the country in general is so well surrounded by the sea, and so narrow in most parts of it, that the constant sea breezes cool and alleviate the heat of the summer. SOIL. From its fertility this country has obtained the name of the garden of Europe. The soil is so fruitful in corn, in excel- lent wine, and delicious fruits, that it seems to be blessed with a perpetual spring. They have a great variety of wines, such as the wine of Gensano, Albano, and Castel Gandolfo about Rome ; the Greco and Lachryma Christi of Naples ; likewise the Monte- fiascone and Florence wines, besides some good sorts of wine near Verona and Genoa. Towards Parma and Piacenza they have excellent pastures, which enable them to make such good cheese. At Naples they have grapes and melons in the winter, as also in some other parts of Italy. There is no great plenty of game, of hares and partridges, but an abundance of quails, which come over in flocks from Africa in the spring of the year, and are very easily taken, being tired of their long voyage ; they are in the greatest plenty at Sorrento, near Naples, and on the island of Capri. They have abundance of trees and plants which do not grow in England and France, except perhaps in the southern parts of the latter. Such are the orange and lemon trees, the pome- granate, olive, myrtle, ficus-indica, caper, and many others. They have commonly also the plane tree, the cork, the scarlet oak, the ju- jube, the carob, cypress, senna, lentisk, &c. The ways are bordered in several parts with the white mulberry, for the nourishment of silk worms. SEAS AND LAKES. The seas with which Italy is bordered are the Adriatic or gulf of Venice, the Ionian, and the Tuscan or Mediterranean sea. The chief lakes are Major, Lugano, Como, Isco, and Garda, in Lombardy, and the lakes of Trasimene or Perugia, Bolsena, and Cassel Gandolfo, in the Ecclesiastic state. CHIEF RIVERS. Italy is watered by a great number of rivers, very large, many of them navigable, and affording great plenty and variety of fish. The chief of them are : — INTRODUCTION. ITALY. — RIVERS, MOUNTAINS. XXXV 1. The Po, called anciently Eridanus, which rises in the Alps, then crossina;' Piedmont, the Montserrat, the Milanese, and the duchy of Mantua, and visiting in its course the cities of Turin, Casal, Placentia, and Cremona, enters at length the duchy of Fer- rara, and, receiving several smaller rivers, empties itself by several mouths into the Adriatic sea. These smaller rivers are the Adda, which runs through the lake of Como, and falls into the Po, a little above Cremona ; the Tessino, which flows from Mount Adula, one of the Alps, crosses the lake of Maggiore, passes by Pavia, and falls into the Po a little below that city ; the Oglio, which rises in the Alps, in the county of Trent, passes through the lake of Isco, and falls into the Po near Mantua ; the Mincio, which rises in the lake of Garda, runs by Mantua, round which it makes a small lake, then discharges itself into the Po at Borgoforte ; the Tanaro, which rises in the south of Piedmont, and running through that province falls into the Po below Valenza ; the Taro, which rises in the mountains on the confines of Genoa, and, running through the duchy of Parma, falls into the Po below Cremona; the Reno, which rises in Tuscany, near the town of Pistoia, enters the Bolognese, where it waters Bologna, and empties itself into the Po below Placentia. This river is famous for the defeat which the Romans, commanded by the Consul Sempronius, received from the Carthaginians, under the command of Hannibal ; the banks of it still retain the name of Campo Morto. 2. The Adige, which rises in the mountains of Tyrol, runs south by the city of Trent, then east by Verona in the territory of Venice, and falls into the Ariatic gulf, north of the mouth of the Po. 8. The Arno, which rises on the eastern confines of Tuscany, runs west quite across that duchy, and having passed by Florence, the capital city, falls into the Mediterranean below Pisa. The valley through which it runs is exceedingly pleasant, abounding in all manner of fruits. 4. The Tiber, whose spring-head is in the Apennine mouatains, runs from north to south through the Pope's territories, passing by Perugia and Orvieto, and having visited Rome, falls into the Medi- terranean sea at Ostia, fifteen miles below that city. 5. The Carigliano, which rises in the Apennine hills, and dividing the Terra di Lavoro from the Campania of Rome, empties itself into the sea near the ruins of the ancient city of Minturna. The Garig- liano is the Loris of the ancients. MOUNTAINS. The principal mountains of Italy are the Alps and the Apennine. The Alps are the highest mountains of Europe, which separate Italy from France and Switzerland. There were formerly but few l^assages through these mountains, and those of difficult access; which were the chief security of the King of Sardinia's Italian dominions against the inroads of France, but modern engineering XXXVi iKtRODOCTiON. ITALY. — iKHABlTANtS, MANNERS. has rendered them all, even in the depth of winter, easily passable* The Apennine is a chain of hills which cross all Italy lengthways, almost through the middle. They begin near Nice, where they join to the maritime Alps, and, running in a kind of serpentine line from thence to the Ecclesiastic statCj, divide themselves into two branches, one of which extends to the sea of Sicily, and the other to the utter- most coasts of the Adriatic. The mountains of Italy, but particu- larly the Apennine hills, are well stored with metals, mineral waters, crystal, alabaster, a kind of agate, and several sorts of marble. The white marble of Carrara is one of the finest sorts in Italy, _^___ INHABITANTS, MANNERS, CUSTOMS, TRADE, LANGUAGE, &c. INHABITANTS, The Italians are of a middling stature, well proportioned, and their features engaging. Their complexions are not the best, but it is a proverbial saying among the women, that if heaven has given them a good shape and features, they will take care to make themselves good complexions. In general they are a very ingenious people, and capable of any undertaking, having an art in pursuing their vanities as well as their virtues. They are firm in their friendships, and familiar with those they love, without any regard to rank or quality. They are of a middle temper, betwixt the starched gravity of the Spaniard and the levity of the French. However, their gravity is not without some fire, nor their sprightliness without some phlegm. They have strong fancies, yet solid judgments. They like to converse about state affairs, having in general a good notion of politics. They are naturally eloquent, and want neither genius, conduct, nor valour. For the least favours they are exceedingly grateful, affecgtionate to their kindred, and ambitious of honour and preferment. They are ready witted, and of great application, both in study and business. No nation is more scrupulously nice in all the punctilios of civility, more profuse of strained compliments and pompous titles, or more exact in entertaining persons according to their quality. Their conversation is very civil and obliging, nor does even the most intimate familiarity make them forget the decorum of a courteous carriage. They shun occasions of quarrelling, espe- cially with strangers, to whom they are very courteous when they become acquainted. If anything can provoke them, it must be either where honour, or the fair sex, or religion is concerned. But their distinguished virtue is temperance, being the soberest people in Europe, though they abound with plenty of the choicest wines. These virtues are not without a mixture of vices, which is the case of most nations. Their predominant passions are jealousy and intrigue. They are sometimes jealous without any reason, and the INTRODITCTION. ITALY. — CUSTOMS, TIME. XXXvU least suspicion throws them into a fit of anger. They are much ad- dicted to pleasure and gaiety, and extravagantly violent in their amours. They have an extraordinary contempt and aversion for foreigners, whom they slightingly call Oltramontani, though we must except the English, to whom they show much greater marks of respect than to other nations. Their women are handsome and witty, and some writers assert they are much inclined to amours. CUSTOMS. The nobility and gentry are very profuse in their buildings, fur- niture, and gardens, and in making collections of pictures, statues, hangings, and other ornaments ; they are fond also of splendid equipages and great trains of servants, choosing to lay out their money rather in this manner than on luxurious tables and strong liquors. And though they are so ambitious of show, yet they do not suffer it to interfere with the economy of their tables, but com- monly keep their servants at board wages. They have a vast relish for outward appearance, praises, pompous titles, and great names. Many of them aifect to retain the old Roman names, which they generally use in the ablative, as Camillo, Scipione, Julio, Mario, Pompeio, &c. Those who have not fortunes equal to their rank, rather than marry the heiress of a wealthy merchant or tradesman, choose to go into a convent. If there be two or more brothers in one family, the general custom is, that only the eldest marries, and the rest live upon purchase. Some raise themselves in the army or state, others in the church, and many of them shut themselves up in a cloister for life. The same method is observed in respect to their daughters, two or three of whom go into nunneries, to raise a large fortune for a favourite one or two who are permitted to marry. They generally dress rather plain than elegant, the dress both of men and women being a kind of medium between the stiff Spanish querpo, and the fantastic French garb. In several parts, as at VeniiB, they had sumptuary laws to prevent the luxury of apparel. They always send notice beforehand when they visit persons of quality. ITALIAN TIME, It is the custom to reckon their hours from sun-rise to sun- set, counting one o'clock an hour after pun-set, and so on to twenty- four, according to the ancient custom of the Athenians. This method is subject to some inconvenience, for their hours are con- sequently always varying, their day beginning sooner or later according as the sun sets. This manner of reckoning the hours is different from that of the ancient Romans, who had unequal hours, as the astronomers express it ; that is, whose natural day was of twelve hours in summer as well as in winter. They commonly sleep, especially in summer time, after dinner, and make their children, when young, go bare-headed, to prevent their being troubled with defluxions when old. When they call one at a dis- XXXVlll INTRODUCTION. ITALY. — LANGUAGE. tance, they do it by pointing with the finger downward. They use but few words, and express their thoughts very often by signs and gesticulations. The negative is generally expressed by the fore-finger of the right hand being moved rapidly from right to left, and vice versa. The Italians are extremely temperate, which is to be understood with regard as well to eating as drinking. The first course, which they call the antipasto, is a dish of giblets boiled with salt and pepper, and mixed with whites of eggs. After which come two or three small dishes, one after another, of different ragouts. Their roast meat generally comes first, which they roast very dry, and they end with a land of pottage, called minestra. Boiled snails, served up with oil and pepper, or fried in oil, and the hinder parts of frogs, are reckoned dainty dishes. They frequently eat kites, hawks, magpies, jackdaws, and other lesser birds. The use of umbrellas is common everywhere, and it is customary even for men to wear fans in summer, in order to cool themselves during the scorching heats. There is hardly any such thing to be seen in Italy as a windmill, and they use no tin vessels, very probably because of the scarcity of that metal. Their vessels are all made of earth, leaded, or of earthenware, but they have none that resemble china so exactly as that of Delft. The streets in the large towns and cities are regular and neat, the buildings strong and magnificent. Most of the considerable cities have peculiar epithets given to them upon some particular account, as Rome, the holy, because it is the papal see ; Naples, the noble, because of the great number of nobility and gentry that live in it ; Florence, the fair, because of the stateliness of the houses, broadness and cleanliness of its streets ; Venice, the rich, by reason of its former opulence and power ; Genoa, the stately, for its magnificent buildings ; Milan, the great, by reason of its largeness and number of inhabitants ; Ravenna, the ancient, for its great antiquity ; Padua, the learned, because learning once flourished most in it ; Bologna, the fat, by reason of the richness of the soil about it ; Verona, the charming, on account of its situation and beauty ; Leghorn, the mercantile, for its vast trade, &c. LANGUAGE. The Italian language is the old Latin, mixed with that of the Goths, Vandals, and other nations, the standard of which has been ascertained upwards of six hundred years. It is soft, harmonious, and pleasant, and therefore reckoned to be fitter for women than men, and to be particularly adapted for courtship. This language is branched out into a vast number of dialects, more than ever there was among the Greeks, though their country was indented and cut out into so many islands, which, as they differed in position of place, so there was some reason they should differ in propriety of speech. Almost every province has a particular dialect, such as INTRODUCTION. ITALY RELIGION, TRADE. XXXIX the Tuscan, the Roman, the Venetian, the Neapolitan, the Cala- brese, the Genoese, the Milanese, the Parmesan, the Piedmontese, the Bergamasco, with several others. The reason of this is, as I apprehend, the multiplicity of states and governments in that country, whose law being different, a diversity also arises in their language. But the principal Italian dialect is the Tuscan for elegance and purity, and the Roman for accent and pronuncia- tion, pursuant to the old Italian proverb. Lingua Toscana in bocca Romana : — The Tuscan language in a Roman mouth. Those who design to make some stay in Italy, in order to learn the language, should choose Sienna for their place of residence, because the Florentine pronunciation is accompanied with a harshness that offends the ear, and is troublesome to the throat ; and at Rome they are confounded by the multitude of strangers, with whom they are daily obliged to converse. But at Sienna one may find retire- ment, together with the Tuscan language and Roman mouth. RELIGION. Regarding religion in Italy, everybody knows that Rome is the centre of the Roman Catholic worship. Foreigners in general are under no great restraint in point of religion, but are allowed a good deal of freedom, and nowhere more than at Rome. TRADE. Italy was about four or five centuries ago the most flourishing country in the world in respect to commerce. The cities of Genoa and Venice, but especially the latter, had engrossed all the rich trade of the East Indies, with which there was no other communi- cation at that, time but by Egypt and the Red Sea. The discovery of a passage to the East Indies by the Cape of Good Hope, towards the close of the fifteenth century, gave a fatal stroke to the Italian commerce, by opening a direct communication between the eastern parts of Asia, and the other provinces of Europe. From that period the trade of Italy began to decline, and the frequent wars with which that country was infested in the two last centuries contributed not a little to increase this declension. Another cause of the decay of commerce was the contempt which the nobility in most provinces showed for the trading part of the commonwealth, by excluding them from public honours, and reckoning it ignominious to trade themselves, or even to marry a merchant's daughter. 'Tis true this prejudice began to be removed first in the duchy of Tuscany, where the princes of the house of Medicis gave the greatest encou- ragement imaginable to trade, from a conviction of its being the surest way to increase their power and revenue by augmenting the property of the subject. This is what induced them to make Leg- horn a free port, and to set an example of trade to their subjects of all degrees, by engaging as principals themselves in several lucra- Xl INTRODUCTION. ITALY. — NICK-NACKS. tive branches of commerce. The same example has been followed lately by some other states and princes, as the King of Naples, the King of Sardinia, nay, even the Pope, who has made a free port of Civita Vecchia; but the frequent wars in Italy have hitherto pre- vented their endeavours from being so successful as they desired. At present their foreign trade is carried on chiefly in foreign bot- toms, by which they export their own manufactures, and import the commodities sent them by other nations. The chief commodities of Italy are sarsenets, velvets, taffetas, cloths of gold and silver, wine, currants, rice, raw silk, alum, vitriol, fine glass, grograms, thrown silks, satin, corn, oil, &c. NICK-NACKS PECULIAR TO ITALY. Rome is celebrated for all sorts of engravings and prints, antiques, cameos, pearls, bas-reliefs, ornaments of architecture, pictures of popes, cardinals, illustrious men, works of the most celebrated painters, perfumes, admirable bergamot, limetta, impe- rial oil and of Millefiori, and all sorts of quintessences, balsams, po- matums, &c. The Roman perfumers have a particular way or secret to perfume skins, of which they make gloves, purses, fans, &c. At Naples they are famous for stockings, gloves, waistcoats, caps, and other works of silk, perfumed shaving soap, snuff-boxes of shell inlaid with silver, bracelets and armlets of lava, and drawings in water-colours. At Venice, for points ; all sorts of works of glass and crystal ; snuff-boxes ; silk stuffs ; fine gold chains, head parasols. At Florence, for essences, balsams, pomatums, and other perfumes, at the monastery of St Mark, and of St Mary Novella. The Cedrato, the Mella Rosa, the Scorza di Limoni, and the Vette di Cedro, are very fiuf scents. Ambra, Muschio, Arance, Myrrho, Fior di spigo, are much commended, though not quite so pleasant as the preceding. The rose is good in its kind, and pleases the nose at first, but it disturbs the head, and the frequent use of it is dangerous. Stones called Dendrites, and others called Ruins of Florence, which come from Monte Limagio ; as also inlaid works with these stones, figures and vases of alabaster. At Genoa, for points, velvets, and other silk stuffs ; dry sweet- meats, and straw hats. At Bologna, for several sorts of snuff, washballs, stones, or phos- phoruses, and sausages. At Tortona they make and sell very curious works of straw; such as boxes, flowers, birds, small caskets for toilets, &c. At Turin, for milled gloves, Rosa solis, and the sweet snuff of Millefiori. At Leghorn also for straw hats, cashmeres, &c. At Modena, for masks, and at Reggio for its spurs and fine toys. xli TRAVELLING IN ITALY. There is no country in Europe where travelling is attended with so much pleasure and improvement as Italy. We need not here enlarge on the fruitfulness and various productions of this happy region, it being well known, as a modern writer* elegantly expresses himself, that whatever desirable things nature has dropt frugally here and there in other countries, are found in Italy as in their ori- ginal seminary : whence some call it the parent of plenty ; others, the fountain of earthly bliss, the incomparable region of this globe, the garden of Europe, the epitome of the world, or rather a little world itself. The inhabitants of this country were once the trium- phant lords and conquerors of the world ; but at present the softer arts prevail ; and in these they are generally thought to be as much superior to the modern as their ancestors were to the ancient nations in war and military exploits. As for the route to be taken by those who intend to visit that country, 'tis impossible to fix it, since the choice depends on the place where they intend to enter, and the time they have to spend in it ; one should see the last days of the carnival at Venice, the holy week at Rome, and the octave of the sacrament at Bologna ; to avoid being at Rome, or the adjacent country, during the great heats ; to traverse the country, so as to see as much of it as they can, and to endeavour not to pass twice the same way. If you can- not be at Venice during the carnival, you ought at least to be there on Ascension-day. Company is generally agreeable in travelling, for fellowship makes people pass their hours more cheerfully. Ex- cept in large towns or cities the inns in general are very miserable, bad beds, scarcity, and bad provisions. To prevent, therefore, the inconveniences of a bad lodging, those that do not carry a complete bed with them, ought at least to make a provision of a light quilt, a pillow, and a pair of fine sheets, they will make but a small bundle. However, if this should appear troublesome, 'tis advisable at least to travel with sheets, and upon coming to an indifferent inn, where the bed may happen to look suspicious, you may at least lie between clean sheets. A traveller should always be furnished with an iron wedge to fasten his door on the inside, for it frequently happens that the doors of the lodging-rooms have neither locks nor bolts, and oppor- tunity, according to the old proverb, makes the thief ; and a lucifer- box, in order to strike a light in case of any accident in the night. * Not my friend Murray. Xlii INTRODUCTION. ITALY. — MODES OF TRAVELLING. SEASON FOR TRAVELLING. People are apt to imagine there is little winter in Italy ; but they are much mistaken, for the cold is as severe there in that sea- son as in many places on this side of the Alps. Gentlemen, there- fore, that are excursionists should never travel in winter, the roads are bad and dangerous, especially in the mountains, because of the snow and ice : the days are short, which renders it necessary to rise before day. Besides, the country looks dismal, nature is in a man- ner half dead, and there are neither fruits nor flowers to be seen. On the contrary, in summer a traveller meets with none of those inconveniences, and though the weather is sometimes hot, he has only to repose himself during the heat of the day. CONVEYANCES. In the Italian states there are three modes of conveyance : post- ing, by diligence, and by vetturini; travellers by the first mode should always provide a bolletone at the police-office, without which no post-horses can be obtained. In Italy, as in France, the number of horses put to a carriage is regulated by the number of persons; thus, a post-chaise with two persons requires two horses, three persons three horses, and four persons four horses; but in those parts of Northern Italy where the roads are level, a calash, or open carriage, with three persons and one trunk, is allowed to travel with two horses. In Tuscany, an English post-chaise with a pole, conveying three persons, and without an imperial, if the road is not mountainous, is allowed to travel with two horses, but if there is an imperial it must have three horses ; and English carriages, with four persons, impe- rial, and trunks, must have four horses. In the papal dominions a two-wheeled carriage, with three per- sons and one trunk, is allowed to travel with two horses, but with more than one trunk three horses are indispensable ; a four-wheeled carriage, with six persons and one trunk, is allowed to travel with four horses, but with six persons and two large trunks, or with seven persons, it must have six horses: a four-wheeled half-open carriage, much in use all over Italy, with two persons and one trunk, is allowed to travel with two horses. In the Neapolitan territories, a two-wheeled carriage, with two persons and one large trunk, is allowed to travel with two horses, with three persons and a large trunk, three horses ; a four-wheeled carriage with three persons and two large trunks, three horses; with four persons and two large trunks, four horses ; bat with six persons and two large trunks, six horses are indispensable. The above post regulations do not at all interfere with parties mak- ing arrangements to have their carriages horsed with vetturini horses, whatever the number of their family or the quantity of their luggage may be. To tiie driver of every extra draught horse it is usual to give two INTKODUCTION. ITALY POSTING. xliv pauls, although he cannot demand any remuneration : it is the best plan to pay the post-master for his horses before they set out. Shafts are not used, either in the Tuscan, Roman, or Neapolitan territories, poles being used the same as in England. PRICE OF POST HORSES IN LOMBARD Y, PARMA, AND MODENA. a. 1. frs. c. For two horses per post 6 32 5 50 Postilions - - - - 1 87 Stable boy - - - 15 12 It is usual to pay the former 3 50 3 The latter . . - 60 50 PIEDMONT. frs. c. For two horses, per post > 3 Postilions - - 75 They, however, usually receive - 2 TUSCANY AND LUCCA. pauls. frs. c. For two horses, per post - 10 5 55 Postilions _ - _ - 3 1 65 Stable boy - - 04 30 It is usual to give the former - 5 2 75 The latter - 1 55 ROMAN STATES. baj. frs. c. For two horses, per post . ' 100 5 40 Postilions - 35 1 90 Stable boy - - - - 5 27 It is usual to give the former . 50 2 70 The latter - 10 55 KINGDOM OF NAPLES. gra. Each horse, per post . - 65 Postilions - - - . - 15 Stable boy - - 5 LENGTH OF ITALIAN POSTES. The usual length of a poste in every part of Italy, except the Sardinian territories, is between six and eight miles, but the mile of Italy differs in extent ; that of Piedmont and Genoa being con- Xliiii INTRODUCTION. ITALY. — VETTDRINT. siderably more than one English mile ; of Lombardy about sixty yards less ; that of Tuscany a thousand geometrical paces ; that of the Ecclesiastical state the same length (which is about one hundred and fifty yards short of an English mile) ; and the mile in the kingdom of JNaples is longer than the English mile. The postes of the Sardinian territories are usually of the same length with those of France, though somewhat shorter in the Alps. THE TETTURINI Is more economical than posting, although of course much slower, as the vetturini only goes at the rate of from forty to forty-five English miles per day, even with good horses. A vetturini gene- rally expects for conveying travellers in their own carriage in Italy 12 francs a day per horse, 6 francs a day each passenger, 5 francs a day each child, and 4 francs a day each servant, for which he furnishes, besides the horses, two meals a day and beds, either breakfast and supper or dinner and supper. If travel- lers, to suit their pleasure or convenience, require the vetturini to stop one or more days on the road, or at any town, he expects 6 francs a night for each of his horses ; but if he conveys passen- gers in his own carriage the expense is from 10 to 12 francs a day each person, everything included, as he then counts upon making a considerable profit by passengers returning. The buona- mano generally given to the driver is about two shillings English a day for four travellers. Travellers finding themselves on the road should agree with the landlord for what they have, in order to avoid disputes. The general custom among the Italians used to be 4 pauls a head at night, including the bed ; and 3 pauls in the morning. For servants, 2 in the morning and 3 in the evening. The luggage should be fastened to the carriage with an iron chain and a padlock, as is frequently done in Germany. The great expense of posting, and the inconvenient and lumbering public conveyances which travel on the great roads through Italy, has rendered the vetturini a very popular mode of land travelling, and, generally speaking, from what I have seen of them, they are a trustworthy, civil, and intelligfent class ; but they, as well as many other descriptions of persons, will take an innocent advantage of the green and inexperienced whenever they get a chance ; but, to prevent as far as in them lies, the police authorities throughout Italy have sanctioned, and fixed unalterably, a certain number of printed clauses, which are furnished by the vetturini when about to engage for a journey. It is not, however, generally known, that in all the large towns throughout Italy the vetturini have a duly acknowledged agent or broker, generally a respectable-looking, intelligent, oily, smooth- tongued, lying humbug, who has more brothers and cousins than any one man ever had north of the Alps ; his business is to palaver INTRODUCTION ITALY. — VETTUEINI BROKERS. x\v you into an engagement (as you think) with himself ; as soon as it is concluded he retires with directions to bring his coach at five the next morning ; the young ladies clap their hands in ecstasy ; — oh, dear, what a very nice, well-behaved, good-looking man, how very agree- able to be cared for by such a thoughtful coachman, mamma declares it has relieved her mind from a great anxiety, as the dread of falling into the hands of some rough, uncouth creature of a driver quite disturbed her rest for the last two nights ; the sister (a widow) de- clares that although a shilling is an object she would rather pay something more to travel with such a pleasant man ! Why, Lord love you, at the very time the whole party are discussing the satisfaction they feel at being so fortunate, the gay deceiver is engaging himself to start at four o'clock the following morning, in quite an opposite direction — but this is his business, and a good one it is ; for by using his oil the screw works more freely, so that he gets something out of you in addition to his per centage. The morning arrives, a coach is at the door, punctual to a minute ; the decoy duck is also there, bustling, smiling, aiding, till all is ready ; if he should happen to have another lot to dispatch immediately he introduces his brother, a fat, ugly, ill-tempered looking fellow, the very sight of whom causes an unin- terrupted silence between the ladies for the first sixteen miles, when the cheering words " Cameriere portate subito la Colazione," induces the party to look at their provider, when it is at once decided that, although he is not quite the thing, yet they might have had worse. It may be needless to say that, as soon as the bargain was struck a letter was dispatched to Florence, Rome, Milan, or wherever the party may be going to, stating the day of arrival, and by the time the vett arrives, he is already under engagement to return, or prcr- ceed in another direction. N.B. It is important to insert in the agreement that the same coachman, carriage, and an equal number of horses, be continued to the end of the journey, and that if satisfactory reasons be given for changing, that one equally large and convenient should be supplied. Never give intimation to your present coachman where you next in- tend to proceed to, after his agreement expires ; if you do, intima- tion is given at the rendezvous, and the price that he asked to con- vey you there (generally higher than it ought) is kept up to in the market. Xlvi INTRODUCTION. ITALY. — VETTUEINI AGEEEMENT. COPY OF ORIGINAL AGREEMENT. 4 Nbre 1844. Oolla presente privata Scritta stipulata in duplicato Originale da valere, e tenere dalle iiifrascritte parti Contraenti nel piu efficace modo di ragione, e stato fissato e convenuto quanto appresso. 1. II Proprietario di Vettura domiciliato a in Via al N promette, e si obbliga di servire nel Viaggio clie vuole intraprendere da a con mettere a sua disposizione durante il detto Viaggio condott da buono Vetturino pel prezzo convenuto di mediante qual pagamento, che sara eseguito restano gli obblighi al detto proprietario di Vettura o suo garzon e qui appresso dichiarati. 2. Ogni giorno, durante il detto Viaggio, dovra fornire a numero Padroni 3. Tutte le spese d'ajuti nel passaggio di Fiumi, Monti, e Mon- tagne, come quelle di Barriere, saranno a carico del Vetturino Conduttore. 4. La Buonamano a Vetturin Conduttor sara 5. Che il prescritto Viaggio sara eseguito nel Corso di Giorni o siano Notti a contare dal Giorno in cui e stata fissata la partenza. 6. La Partenza da e fissata per la mattina del di alle ore 7. Nel caso che la partenza venisse ritardata sara pagato per ciaschedun giorno pel mantenimento delle Bestie. 8. Per tutti quei giorno di piu che al predetto Signer gli piacesse di restar fermo in qualche Citta, o che fosse costretto per casi fortuiti, e restato convenuto, che 9. Che il Vetturino Conduttore dovra andar sempre in buoni Alberghi partendo ogni mattina di buon ora per arrivare ogni giorno prima di Notte all'Albergo ove dovrassi pernottare. 10. E per I'osservanza di cio si sono volontariamente sotoscritte ambo le parti, come appresso. INTEODUCTION. ITALY. — VETTCRINI AGEEEMENT. xlvii TRANSLATION. The parts in Italic were filled up in writing, which may be altered according to circumstances. B Florence, 4th of November^ 1844. y the present private writing, stipulated in double original to be in force, and to be kept by the undersigned parties in the most efficacious mode, it has been fixed as follows : — 1. The proprietor of the coach, Giacomo Gulinelli, lives at , in street, at No — , promises and will bind himself to serve four pel' sons in the journey they are going to take from Florence to Padua, by putting at their disposal during said Yoja^ge four places in the inside of a coach, to be driven by a good vetturino (coachman), for the stipulated price of 2^ naps, in gold for each place or person, which payment is to be paid by instal- ments while on the way ; and the proprietor of the coach (or his coachman) is bound to the following — 2. Every day, during the above-said journey, he must supply to the above four passengers in the morning before starting, coffee, milk, bread and butter ; at twelve o'clock, dejeuner h la four' chette ; and in the evening, dinner, consisting of four dishes ; or tea and one dish, according to their desire ; lights, fire, and beds. 3. All the expenses during the journey, such as crossing of the rivers, mountains, hills, and toll bars, must be at the expense of the coachman. 4. The buona mano (present) to the vetturino, or conductor, will be 6 pauls for each person. 5. The above said journey to be performed in five days, to begin from the morning of the starting day. 6. The starting day from Florence is fixed on the morning of the bth of the present month, at 6 a.m. 7. In case the day for starting is postponed, the passengers will have to pay daily, for the keeping of the horses, 5 francs for each horse. 8. If the passengers wish to stay any length of time in any town they pass through on the journey, or, if prevented from proceed- ing by any other fortuitous circumstances, they will have to pay 5 francs daily for each horse, and their own expenses of beds, living, Sfc. 9. The coachman must always take the passengers to good hotels, starting every day early in the morning, so as to arrive at the resting places before dusk. 10. For the full observance of this contract we have voluntary put our signatures. (Signed) COGHLAN, HOPKINS, JONES, & Co. GIACOMO GULINELLI. Xlviii INTRODUCTION ITALIAN BEDS, PASSPORTS. INNS. The Inns particularly recommended have been visited by myself, and in every case I have endeavoured to do justice to the hotel- keeper as well as a service to the traveller, as nothing can be so annoying to travellers as to find, after a long and fatiguing journey, themselves set down at a pot-house instead of a hotel, or to find the once Grande Albergo Bretagne converted into a butcher's shop. On the roads between Florence and Naples I have seldom mentioned the inns, for really they are scarcely deserving the name; besides, each vetturini has his own favourite house to stop at, and it is always better to let him go there. ITALIAN BEDS Will astonish, and no doubt please, married people who have been screwed up in small German and Swiss beds ; the first sample, after passing the Alps by the Simplon, is seen at the ancient poste, Domo d'Ossola; and generally throughout Italy they are large enough for a man and his wife and four juveniles — but, notwithstanding their convenient size, they are not particularly soft ; one thin mattress of wool is generally placed on the top of a palliase, composed of the dried leaves of Indian corn; a really comfortable bed should have two wool mattresses at least ; this, by giving a little notice to the chambermaid (i. e. man) will be readily effected. Madame Starke recommended travellers to carry their own sheets : had she also advised people to carry their own pillows, it would have been a wise suggestion ; they are even now precious hard and flat, they must have been bullets in her time. Iron bedsteads are now pretty gene- ral throughout Italy. Mosquito curtains are made of a fine muslin, which should be drawn tightly down; curtains with openings at the sides are literally of no use, the insinuating tormentors would creep through the eye of a needle. PASSPORTS IN ITALY. In every part of Italy, except the Austrian states, the vise to a traveller's passport must be paid for, varying from 1 to 12 pauls, to the police, then to the English consul, and lastly by the consul of the state you are about entering. It should, however, be always borne in mind that the vise of a minister, on proceeding from France, Germany, or Switzerland, authorizes your entering that country for once only, and having left it, to return, it must again receive a similar vise either from a minister or a consul. It is also important to know that the number in each family should be particularly specified, and whenever a separation takes place previous to em- barking, particular notice should be given to the police to that effect, as the number of persons registered as having embarked (copied from the passports) must be forthcoming when the vessel arrives ; in some cases the passengers are called one by one by INTRODUCTION. ITALY.— MONEY. xlvix name, but in all they are passed from one part of the vessel to the other, and counted hf the police. A traveller, who had left his wife in Switzerland while he made a hasty tour through Italy, whose name he allowed to remain on the passport, was detained some time at Leghorn till he satisfied the police that he had not ' done for her ;* but the most ample local particulars will be found under the above head at all large towns and cities. ITALIAN MONEY. The moneys most current in Italy, and upon which there is the least loss, are napoleons and Spanish dollars ; the last are current for 94 to 10 pauls. On the whole napoleons are the best, but for families posting on the road Spanish dollars, or the largest silver coins of the country through which they hajDpen to be passing at the time, are most convenient. All over Italy the money is reckoned by livres and hundredths, or centimes, exactly corresponding to the French francs. The accounts are generally in pauls, particularly in the Papal and Tuscan states. PIEDMONTESE. The actual coinage is the same as the French. The old coins in circulation are the double d'or Savoyard, worth 28 frs. 45 c. ; the demi-double, 14 frs. 22 c. ; and the quadruple of Genoa, 79 fr. GENOA. The doppia of gold is worth - - 79 frs. The ruspone of gold - - _ 60 pauls. The sequin of Florence - - 20 ditto. The sequin of Rome - - - 19^ ditto. The francescone - - - 10 ditto. The crown of St John the Baptist - - 5 livres. THE KINGDOM OF LOMBARDO-VENETO. French money is current. The Italian lira is the same as the franc. The Austrian zwanziger is worth 87 cents. The lira Milanese, 76 cents. The tallero, 5 frs. 22 cents. The fiorino or mezzo tallero, 2 frs. 61 cents. There being three currencies, the lira Italiana, the lira Mila- nese, and the lira Austriaca, or zwanziger, it causes considerable confusion to strangers. In shopping always inquire which is meant. INTRODUCTION. ITALY. — MONET, TUSCANY. &. s. d. 5 English 9 „ 2 3 „ 4 6 „ 10 „ 1 10 6 „ 8 crazie 1 paul or paola 1 lira - - - 5 pauls, 1 mezzo scudo 10 pauls, 1 Francescone or scudi Sequin, or zecchino (gold) Ruspone (gold) _ . - The smaller coins are the half paul, pieces of 2 crazie, 1 crazia, quattrini, 5 of which make 1 crazia, soldo, 1 of which makes 3 quattrini. The exchange being usually iu favour of England, a paul costs 5d., and owing to the agio on gold 21 pauls are given for a sequin, the actual value being 20 pauls, and 63 instead of 60 are given for a ruspone ; on this account many travellers prefer receiving their money in scudi, or Spanish dollars, which on a large sum makes a considerable difference. ROME. 10 bajocchi 1 paul - 5 pauls 1 mezzo scudo 10 pauls 1 scudo 20 pauls 1 sequin (gold) New piece of 1\ scudi (gold) 82 pauls 1 doppia (gold) 50 pauls I new piece of 5 scudi (gold) Other coins are the 3 and 2 paul pieces, the half-paul, and the bajocchi. The Spanish dollar passes here for 10 pauls. Accounts are kept in pauls and bajocchi. NAPLES. s- d. 10 grains 1 carlin - - - 4 English. 12 carlins 1 piastre - - - 4 4 „ 80 carlins 1 onza - - - 10 6 „ In addition it may be useful to know that the English sovereign is worth between 46 and 47 pauls ; a Napoleon about 37 pauls, or 3 piasters 10 carlini 5 grana ; a Spanish dollar 10 pauls. s. d. - o - 2 14 - 4 3 - 8 6 - 10 8 - 13 8i - 21 4 H ENGLISH MONEY EEDUCED TO THE VALUE OE THE MONEY IN THE ITALIAN STATES. English Money. Milan Lira Nova or Franc. Austrian Lira and cents. Tuscan Scudi, Pauls, and Grazie . Naples Ducates, Carlins, Gran. E ome Francesconi, Pauls, Bajocchi. £. s. d. Lira. cent. Lira. cent. Sc. PI. Gr. D. C. G. F. P. B. 1 lOi 12 H H 2 2 21 24 3 5 4 4 42 48 6 10 8 6 63 72 1 1 1 5 12 1 1 26 1 44 2 2 3 2 4 2 2 52 2 89 4 4 6 4 8 3 3 78 4 33 6 6 9 7 2 4 5 04 5 80 9 12 9 6 5 6 30 8 25 1 1 2 15 1 1 8 10 12 60 14 50 2 2 4 30 2 3 6 15 18 90 21 75 3 3 6 45 3 5 4 1 25 21 29 00 4 5 60 4 7 2 2 50 42 58 00 9 120 9 4 4 3 75 63 87 00 13 5 180 14 1 6 4 100 84 116 00 18 240 18 8 8 5 126 05 145 00 22 5 300 23 6 2 6 151 26 174 00 27 360 28 3 4 7 176 47 203 00 31 5 420 33 6 8 201 68 232 00 36 480 37 7 8 9 226 89 261 00 40 5 540 42 10 252 10 290 00 45 60 45 5 20 504 20 580 00 90 120 85 30 756 30 870 00 135 180 127 5 40 1008 40 1160 00 180 240 170 50 1260 50 1455 00 225 300 212 5 60 1512 60 1740 00 270 360 255 70 1764 70 2030 00 315 420 297 5 80 2016 80 2320 00 360 480 340 90 2268 90 2610 00 405 540 382 5 100 2521 00 2900 00 450 600 435 The above table is given, not as the accurate exchange at par, but merely to sho w the amount in English money of any expenses incurred in Italy ; but except in shops, and when taking excur- sions among the natives, there is little difficulty in the money. All through Sardinia, and at Milan and Venice, the hotel bills are made out in French francs ; at Florence, Rome, Leghorn, in pauls ; at Naples, in carlins. There is, however, some slight dif- ference between the Tuscan and Roman pauls, the latter being worth 7| grazie, and the former 8 grazie. lii INTRODUCTION. ITALY — WAITERS, ETC. CAMERIERE — FACCHINO POSTILIONS. The waiters throughout Italy are called by the first name, and are in general civil and attentive ; the porters by the second, who appear to enjoy, in Tuscany and the Papal States, a government privilege to annoy and perplex the wearied traveller. There is, however, a distinction in favour of those travelling post in their own carriages ; but the vetturini, on entering a town, are surrounded and followed to the inn by several of these gentry, who unload the car- riage and carry the luggage up to the apartments, the porters of the hotel standing by, while the exorbitant charges for doing that which in other countries is readily done by the servants of the house causes a continued squabbling respecting these charges, which can only be terminated by at once yielding, with the best possible grace, to their demands, as the innkeepers, if they would, evidently clare not interfere. The postilion (postiglione) is another source of annoyance ; and when travelling post are never satisfied ; travelling too in the public conveyances, as having no right whatever, on the termination of each stage, going regularly round to the travellers and begging from all ; but the begging system in Italy appears to be studied as a pro- fession ; the lower classes are beggars from the cradle — old men beg, old women beg, little boys beg, and young children beg ; in short, if the true begging system ever existed to perfection in any coun- try, that country is Italy, where all travellers, but English travellers in particular, are considered legitimate game for the lame and the lazy. The buona-mano to the cameriere is also a source of constant trouble and anxiety to English travellers. About a zwanziger per diem in Lombardy and Venice, a paul in Tuscany and the Papal States, one and a half to two carlins in Naples, for the heads of the party, excluding children and servants, given to the cameriere for the inn- door servants will be sufficient if staying some time. It is also usual to give a trifle to the gate porter when leaving. H Z u F o o u X H O H < Q. < bl H I- P H <3 P^ W P O CO P O I— I P5 ;-( an i> *^ BO >% HPH ^^ cC rf M CQ CU OOOOO(M o p^ OJ d C o o c o ^H o O C3 o ^ s - S 03 § o o a B o3 03 b 3 c o o o 03 r- ' bog § §3 H^K^fx,pH:iPpqK^KSa2h:ipqcocoh:;pp5H:?ffi o g H CO p _i w u w wu Si '^ tl^ t_J L_- 1_I 1_- k_i CU -t- ^-' «^ <'-' J ~^»