/" / A^ ^ >^' ^ -^ .X ' ^> '^ >^ ^^^ r ^ 9^ ^- .■^' ^ \^^- ^^^^^.„_v*.,.»^<.o■ J i. a « ^>. UNDER THE OLD ARCH AT THESSALONICA. RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. BY MILTON S. TERRY, PROFESSOR IN GARRETT BIBLICAL INSTITUTE. .V ^'^ APR 30 1894 . "■^r, 6-^ CINCINNATI : CRANSTON & CURTS. NEW YORK: HUNT & EATON. 1894. <3^ Copyright by CRANSTON & CURTS, 1894. THE LIBRARY or CONGRESS WASHI NOTCH To WILLIAM H. COLVIN, Esq., my native Townsman, and the Generous Friend and Jovial Companion of many days on various seas and among strange peoples, Shis ©olume owes its being. CONTENTS. -♦- CHAPTER I. PAGE. Crossing the Ocean, 7 CHAPTER II. Bremen, 20 CHAPTER III. BERI.IN, ■ 29 CHAPTER IV. In German Universities, 39 CHAPTER V. In Luther's Steps, 48 CHAPTER VI. GWMPSES INTO NOTABI^E CiTlES, 63 CHAPTER VII. CONSTANTINOPI^E AND THE GOI^DEN HORN, . . . I04 CHAPTER VIII. A Journey into Greece, 120 5 6 CONTENTS. CHAPTER IX. Page. Rambi.es in S1C11.Y, 142 CHAPTER X. A Tour through ItaIvY, 153 CHAPTER XI. SwiTZERIvAND AND THE Al,PS, 1 93 CHAPTER XII. Paris, 209 CHAPTER XIII. Up and Down the Rhine, 238 CHAPTER XIV. In the Northi^and, 260 CHAPTER XV. In the Netherlands, 272 CHAPTER XVI. In ENGI.AND, 28S CHAPTER XVII. In IrEIvAND AND SCOTl^AND, 3II RfllABLE? IN THE OLD WORLD. (EFrapfBr I. CROSSING THE OCEAN. Lives there a man with soul so dead, Who never to himself hath said, I'll go abroad some day? ES, there are doubtless many such souls. There are hundreds in every land who have scarcely heard whether there be any country outside of the region in which they were born. There are others who know something, but think little and care less about foreign lands and peoples. But where is the young American, born and bred in the midst of the life and bustle and common education of this New World, but has indulged the dream of foreign travel? The school-books of his 7 8 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, childhood beget in him a curiosity and ambi- tion to '' see the world." **His eye must see, his foot each spot must tread, Where sleeps the dust of earth's recorded dead ; Where rise the monuments of ancient time — Pillar and pyramid in age sublime ; The Pagan's temple, and the Churchman's tower; War's bloodiest plain, and Wisdom's greenest bower ; All that his wonder woke in schoolboy themes ; All that his fancy fired in youthful dreams. Where Socrates once taught he thirsts to stray Where Homer poured his everlasting la}^; From Virgil's tomb he longs to pluck one flower, By Avon's stream to live one moonlight hour; To pause where England garners up her great, And drop a patriot's tear to Milton's fate." We Americans have no lack in our own land of immense spaces and untrodden wastes. We need not travel abroad in hope of finding cataracts more wonderful than our Niagara, rivers more beautiful than the Hudson, or mightier than the '' Father of Waters." We will not look on hill-encompassed sheets of water more charming than Lake George ; mountains more picturesque than the Appa- lachian range, or more imposing than the Rockies; valleys more entrancing than Yo- semite ; and fountains and geysers to rival CROSSING THE OCEAN, 9 those of the far-famed Yellowstone. But these enviable possessions do not keep the American at home. He wants to see things old as well as new\ Sometimes, it is true, we meet such a paragon of good sense as stoutly declares that he ''will see his own land first." He chides, with becoming grace, such foolish upstarts as spend their money for travel in the Old World before they have vSeen a twentieth part of their own country. He will not thus turn his back on ''the land of the free and the home of the brave" — not he. And in nineteen cases out of twenty the proprietors of such sound ideas never get beyond the circle of their native horizon. But I was foolish enough to think seriously of going abroad before seeing the half of "my ain countree." yhe thought stuck in my brain full many a year, and I might have gone and seen and returned a dozen times while I was thinking about it. But at last I started right up, said I would go at once, secured a passport, and packed my gripsack. Let no presumptuous woman say that leathern hand- trunk was not well arranged ! I was resolved that no cumbersome package should impede my progress through pestiferous custom-houses. lO RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. One suit of clothes must do duty for all occa- sions. *'If I must appear before the pope in a black dress-suit," said I, ''any hotel waiter will accommodate me with his own sleek swal- lowtail for the trifle of a franc." Far more important to me was the thought of where I was going and what I should see. The British Isles, of course; but, for various reasons, I resolved to leave them for the last part of my journey, after I had seen the Con- tinent of Europe and should be on my home- ward way. I resolved to take Germany first, and accomplish certain plans of study there ; then Switzerland and France and Belgium. But having traversed all these countries, and yet feeling strong desire to move on farther, I was permitted to go again through Germany, and then on to Vienna, and thence to Constan- tinople, and thence return by way of Greece and Sicily and Italy. From Venice it seemed to me good to proceed northward to Munich, and thence along the Rhine to Holland, and so on to Denmark and Sweden and Norway. Spain and Russia were in my plans ; but the former lay too far on one side of my route, and when I reached Sweden and thought to cross from Stockholm to St. Petersburg, I "got home- CROSSING THE OCEAN, II sick," and imagined that the bear-like Russians might do me much harm, and search my satch- els too closely, and so I easily persuaded my- self that it was time for me to ''get home and to work;" and so it came to pass. My reader will probably observe that, like most travelers, I went abroad to SHE 01.D THINGS. It was not to study human nature, or the problems of capital and labor, or com- merce and industrial arts, or even the manners and customs of foreign peoples. These can be learned at home to that extent that one scarcely cares to enlarge the vision. The chief inspira- tion of foreign travel is a desire to come into local contact with the remaining vestiges of ancient times ; to look on cities that repre- sent the history of a thousand years ; to tread the battle-fields which have been the scene of conflicts never to be lost from the world's memory. Old castles ; old cathedrals ; monu- ments gray with age or falling into ruin ; the masterpieces of human genius, wrought in stone and metal and on the canvas; the palaces and the prisons of past ages, — these are what the foreign tourist looks for, and will be men- tioned in the following pages, I fear, almost to the extent of tedious repetition. 12 rambles in the old world. Getting Started. Fifteen hours from Chicago, including nine hours' sleep by the way, and I am roused up by the sound of many waters and the outcry of many voices, and, looking out of the window of my berth on the cars, behold! the mighty cataract of Niagara! It is the magnificent panorama from ''Falls View," on the Michigan Central Road. It seems as if we were lifted high in air, and looking down from above upon a thunderbolt of waters, cleaving the depths below. The train lingers a moment, as if the senseless cars were spellbound before the sym- bol of Omnipotence. Ten hours more on the Eastward train, and I find myself in Albany, amid familiar scenes. This was the great city of my boyhood — the queen city, the pearl and crown of cities; for nothing to my fancy then was so mighty and magnificent among cities as the capital of the Empire State. Here is the very same old corner where my father and my older brothers came with the farm produce, and stood from dewy morn till dusky eve ''sell- ing out." How I exulted when I was per- mitted to "go along," and witness the day's operations ! Here is the same old hotel where CROSSING THE OCEAN, 1 3 we Stopped to feed the horses. I recognized some of the same old signs over the stores. Surely, Albany has changed less in thirty years than Chicago in five. A few hours more and I enter our national metropolis. And then follow those numerous small experiences of ''getting ready to start." A huge and strong steamer of the North Ger- man Xloyd lyine agrees to take me, for one hundred dollars, direct from New York to Bre- men. I am to enjoy the freedom of the ship and all the rights, privileges, and powers of a "first-class passenger." I go on board, and banish all further cares. Promptly at the hour appointed, two tug-boats pulled us away from the wharf, and then the mighty engines of our steamer began to work, and we passed the proud statue of ''Liberty Enlighten- ing the World," and moved on through the Narrows, and out into "the mournful and misty Atlantic." Out on the Ocean. We were scarcely out of New York Harbor when the steward handed me two letters. How is this, thought I, that I should receive letters just as I am pushing out to sea? I opened and 14 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. found them to be the kind and thoughtful device of my beloved colleagues, Professors Charles W. Bennett and Charles F. Bradley. How cheering, just as I sailed away from na- tive land, to feel assurance of deep friendship and loving S3^mpathy behind me, and to know that friends were wishing me abundance of happiness abroad and a safe return ! The ten- der mood produced by such tokens of affection was more unspeakable than the grandeur of the ocean. But new friends meet us in our travels, and many of the friendships thus formed are among the most beautiful as well as the most mem- orable of life. Can I ever forget the jovial group that regularly patronized one table of the noble steamer Trave? There were my two friends from Chicago, Mr. W. H. Colvin and son, with whom I had arranged to take the tour of a large part of Europe, and per- haps a short run into Asia. There was the imperturbable James E. Reynolds, of New York, who was bound always and everywhere to maintain that nothing of much account could come out of Chicago. There was our English military officer, who was ever read}^ to run over with laughter at a Yankee joke. CROSSING THE OCEAN, 1 5 There was a well-traveled merchantman, who hailed from Java, and was always competent to make the most and best of any opportunity. He explained to his next neighbor the differ- ence between a man speaking at the telephone and one sitting unawares upon a pin. The one, he observed, says Hello! The other re- verses the order of the syllables ! Our English officer was greatly taken with the story of a clergyman whose scandalous habit of repeat- ing the superfluous pronoun he after all nouns, as if to give emphasis, once excited uproarious merriment in his congregation. He announced his text: "Your adversary, the devil, walketh about as a roaring lion, seeking whom he may devour." In true orthodox style he then de- clared his threefold purpose to inquire: '' First, who, the devil, he is; second, where, the devil, he came from; and, third, what, the devil, he roared about!" Our friend was so deeply im- pressed with these remarkable divisions for a sermon that he actually out with his note-book and pencil, and carefully wrote them down ! It was noticeable that many passengers ab- sented themselves from table — after the first day. Even our generous New York Reynolds was known to miss four meals in one day ! 1 6 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. But he assured us he had good reasons, one of which was that five meals in one day is un- American; and another, that he occupied the room of one of the officers of the steamer ! One could, if he desired, have coffee and rolls at an early hour. The regular breakfast came at eight o'clock, and consisted generally of (i) hominy or oatmeal; (2) beef-steak; (3) ham and eggs or liver and bacon; (4) cakes and syrup. The lunch was served at one o'clock, consisting of cold meats of all kinds and a great variety of relishes. The dinner was the great meal, served about five o'clock. The usual courses were (i) soup; (2) oysters on shell; (3) fish; (4) roast beef or lamb; (5) turkey, chicken, or duck ; (6) a meat-pie ; (7) some sort of pudding and sauce; (8) ice- cream and cake; (9) fruit, nuts, and coffee or tea. A late evening meal was also served to such as desired it. Our steamer furnished the usual sights and diversions of a sea-voyage. The livelong day, and late into the evening, one might see such as were covetous of ''sea-air" reclining on the open deck. Others were diligently "reading up " for their prospective journeys. Not a few amused themselves with various games — no- CROSSING THE OCEAN. 17 tably whist. Some seemed to be forever walk- ing — "up-stairs, down-stairs, and in the ladies' chamber." The occasional sight of a sail afar on the ocean, or of a passing steamer, drew all eyes, and seemed for the moment to supply the place of the daily neWvSpaper. The reflecting mind will not fail to note the majesty of the ever-changing sea. I over- heard one person repeating, as he walked the deck and looked out over the broad expanse : "There's a wideness in God's mercy Like the wideness of the sea." Another repeated the words of Malcom: ''Oh, how many have found in these billows a grave ! How" many a gallant ship has sunk like lead in the mighty waters, where beauty and vigor, wealth and venerableness, learning and piety, find undistinguished graves!" I found myself quoting Byron, especially the stanza : "Thou glorious mirror, where the Almighty's form Glasses itself in tempests ; in all time, Calm or convulsed — in breeze or gale or storm ; Icing the pole, or in the torrid clime Dark-heaving; boundless, endless, and sublime; The image of Eternity; the throne Of the Invisible ; even from out thy slime The monsters of the deep are made ; each zone Obeys thee ; thou goest forth, dread, fathomless, alone." 2 1 8 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. On the morning of our eighth day at sea, I arose quite early, and looked out, and lo ! we were sailing along the southern coast of Eng- land. *' Land's End " stretched out before me, some six or eight miles away. All the day we kept those rocky shores in view ; and thought was busy in recalling the almost mythical stories of the ancient Britons, and the crossing of Julius Caesar from the coast of Gaul to subject that Ultima TJnde to the power of Rome. How the old Druid priests once ruled the superstitious tribes of this northern isle, and practiced their mysterious rites amid the dark recessess of the forests ! But after the Christian missionaries, St. Austin of Eng- land, St. Patrick of Ireland, and St. Colomba of Scotland — well called saints — had planted the cross upon the ruins of ancient supersti- tion, this marvelous island-empire rose rapidly to greatness, and now wields the scepter of a dominion far greater than that of ancient Rome. Our steamer stopped at Southampton, and landed the passengers e)i route for London. Then we again weighed anchor, and passed on through the Straits of Dover, and out upon the cold North Sea, On my first voyage over CROSSING THE OCEAN. 1 9 these waters, our ship auchored, on a Friday night about ten o'clock, in the mouth of the Weser. The next morning, after an early breakfast, we were taken by a small steamboat to Bremerhaven, where we enjoyed our first experience of a foreign custom-house. So un- pretentious a hand-baggage aS that gripsack which I carried attracted no attention, and I caught the first train to Bremen, and arrived there about eleven o'clock in the forenoon, while many of my fellow-passengers, laden with huge trunks arid packages, were so long delayed at that ''high-tariff republican receipt of custom" that they failed to reach Bremen in time* to catch the much-desired train for Berlin that day. But though in ample time for the Schnellzug, I was in no such haste to reach the German capital, but had previously resolved to spend my first Sunday in Europe in the beautiful city which every student of Church history associates with the Christly ministry of "the holy Anschar." Or^apfEr 11 G> I <^ 1) BREMEN, r ET not my reader suppose that I am ^ writing a guide-book of travel, nor let G)ciyjv^» him vainly imagine that I propose to tell him all I saw abroad. The thought of writing or publishing anything like a book of my travels did not seriously enter my mind. It is only now, after 3'ears have intervened, and upon looking over a number of letters sent to friends at home, that it has seemed good to me to write out the recollections of my vari- ous journeys. I recall many objects of inter- est as vividly to-day as when I stood, years ago, amid the very scenes; and while a few things have somewhat faded from memory, I note that others deepen with the lapse of time. Only those things which left a clear and per- manent impression do I now plan to write about. I shall not trouble my reader with de- tails of what I saw on my first visit, as distinct from what I saw on a second or a third. Some places I visited many times, and it is the total 20 BREMEN. 2 1 impression which the several visits have left upon me that I plan to put on record. I speak of Bremen first for several reasons. That was the first foreign city that came in m}^ way, and for tjjat reason alone its sights probably made a deeper impression upon mem- ory than many others of even greater intrinsic interest and value. Being a Methodist, I could not but have special interest in the city w^hich was for a long ti^ie the headquarters of the Methodist mission- work in Germany, and where its publishing-house still remains. And, fur- thermore, I knew that Bremen w^as one of the old medieval cities, the foundations of which dated away back in the times of Charlemagne, or beyond ; whilst in commercial enterprise it ranks high among the modern business centers of the German Empire. One of the first things to attract the eye of the traveler is the long, winding boulevard which marks the boundary of the ancient cit3^ The beautiful walks are laid out on the site of the old ramparts, and the moat has been formed into a broad canal. The trees, the windmills, the bridges, the fine buildings on either side, and the occasional seats "for the repose of pilgrims," can not be easily forgotten. Never 22 J^ AMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. shair I forget the picturesque Altmannshohe, at the southern end of this boulevard, where I vSat down under an inviting arbor overlooking the Weser, and watched the quiet waters and their various craft. The ^rt gallery near this place contains Leutze's famous painting of ''Washington Crossing the Delaware." MOvSt visitors will naturall}^ be conducted first to the market-place as the chief center of interCvSt. Here are situated the Rathhaus, or Chamber of Council; the Cathedral; the Ex- change; and the Chamber of Commerce. In front of the Rathhaus rises the colossal Roland statue, believed to be the most famous of its kind existing. An air of m^^stery hangs around this huge symbolic work of art. The legend of Roland goes back to the eighth cen- tury, and connects with the wars of Charle- magne. It has been diffused in popular song and tradition among almost all the nations of Kurope, and medieval art has enshrined it in these so-called ''Roland statues." This gi- gantic figure holds a vSword in his right hand and a shield upon his left, while a severed hu- man head and hand lie at his feet. It is sup- posed to represent the liberty and judicial rights of the cit}^ where it stands. I noticed BREMEN, 23 similar figures afterwards at Brandenburg, Magdeburg, and Halberstadt. The Rathhaus is particularly celebrated for its richly frescoed wine-cellars, in one of which are shown twelve large casks, called the ''Twelve Apostles,"con- taining wine made in the early part of the seven- teenth century. In one of these underground rooms the curious visitor, who will pay his guide a small fee, may see the place where the old burgomasters convened about a large center-table, and held their secret councils. Above the table, on the ceiling of the room, is painted the figure of a large red rose, whence originated the expression sub rosa for delibera- tions held in secret. In the great hall above are several objects of interest to the student of history and art. The stained-glass windows bear the names and escutcheons of the coun- selors of Bremen, and on the ceiling are me- dallion portraits of the German emperors from Charlemagne to Sigismund. I was particularly interested in the old ca- thedral, which has a choir-gallery in each end, and one of the most famous organs in all Eu- rope. Here I witnessed, for the first time, the form and order of service in the principal Protestant Churches of German3\ Here I was 24 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. ■ shown into that curious vault known as the Bleikeller, where human bodies, some of which have lain there four hundred 3''ears, are ex- posed in open coffins. The body of one man, who was killed in a duel two hundred years ago, was so well preserved that the fatal wounds received in his arm and side w^ere still clearly traceable. The remarkable properties of this room are said to be owing to the melting of lead for the rOof w^hich was done here, and w^hich also gave to the vault the name of "the lead-cellar." This cathedral was begun in the eleventh century, and the Church of St. Ans- char, which stands about ten minutes' w^alk distant, is an edifice of the early part of the thirteenth century. In front of the latter I remember looking long and with tearful e^^e upon a work of art by Steinhauser. It repre- sents the holy Anschar in the act of liberating a pagan youth from the bondage of heathen- ism. The great apostle of the north, the im- personation of benignity, appears in the act of sprinkling the waters of baptism on the up- lifted face of a new convert, whose counte- nance seems to be radiant wath the light of heaven, while a yoke is falling from his shoul- der. In that symbolic group I saw a beautiful s BREMEN. 25 ideal of the evangelization of the pagan world. My Methodist readers will be pleavSed to have me .say that I did not pass by our mis- sion-work in Bremen without careful observa- tion. Here came Dr. ly. S. Jacoby, in 1849, to open in the Fatherland a great religious move- ment, which has been going on with increas- ing interest and prosperity until this day. Here, for ten years, the annual meetings of the mission were held. Here, too, were organ- ized the Religious Publishing-house and the Mission Institute, the latter afterwards trans- ferred to Frankfort-on-the-Main. Strolling through Georg Strasse, on the day of my ar- rival in this city, I observed the fine building which bears the sign of the Methodist Tractat- Gesellschaft^ and at once walked in, and made myself at home. This same institution serves also as the German agency of the American and British Bible Societies. In the chapel I preached my first sermon in the land of lyUther. There was a large and attentive audience, and the fervor and piety of these German Method- ists would make the heart of John Wesle}^ "feel strangely warm" again. But if I linger longer in this delightful 26 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, Bremen, I shall be in danger of referring to almost all I saw, and therefore I will move on to Hanover, the beautiful capital of the former kingdom of this name. Here one sees a notable combina- tion of the old and the new. Houses three and four hundred years old, with quaint orna- mentation peculiar to former times, are found in close connection with structures of modern style and taste. The student of philosophy will not fail to visit the house of Leibnitz, in Schmiede Strasse, No. lo, a stone building- more than two hundred years old. Its great size, its tile covering, and its highly orna- mented windows, combine to make it a most interesting vStud3^ The bones of the great philosopher repose in a church not far from this house beneath a marble slab which bears the simple inscription, Ossa Leibnitu, Not only was he the most profound philOvSopher of his day, but distinguished also as poet, histo- rian, theologian, jurist, naturalist, machinist, and mathematician. The world has rarel}' seen his equal in learning and versatility of genius. MAGDEBURG. 27 In the Museum of Art and Science, and the neighboring Picture Gallery, one could spend days and weeks in the study of rich collections in the departments of natural history and art. But many would be more interested in follow- ing the ''Avenue of lyimes" out to the old pal- ace of the Guelphs, known as the Welfenschloss, and now converted into a polytechnic school. On, beyond this, extend the broad acres of the Schloss-Herrenhaicsen, where one may wander to his heart's content among fountains and gar- dens and statues and orangeries and palms and hot-hoUvSes. Here he may visit the mausoleum of King Ernest Augustus and his Queen Fred- erica. Here, too, are various collections of sculptures and paintings and national antiqui- ties. And this general feature prevails through- out all the chief cities of this German land. There seems to be no end of paintings and magnificent monuments of art. Magdkburg. Before proceeding to the German capital, I pause for awhile in famous old Magdeburg — famous for the memory of Otho the Great and his beloved Rditha, famous for its connection with the Hanseatic League, famous for its 28 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. zealous promotion of the Protestant Reforma- tion, famous for its sufferings in the Thirty- 3^ears' War, and famous for projecting that ponderous work on Church history forever to be known as the "Magdeburg Centuries." And that is all I propose to sa}^ about this old town, save that the magnificent cathedral is well worthy of a visit. Its wilderness of elab- orate workmanship, its gorgeous portal and lofty tower, are not easily forgotten. Within its vaults repose the great Emperor Otho I, and here is vshown a large chest used, some sa3% by the notorious Tetzel, while he Avas en- gaged in the sale of indulgences. I solemnl}' asked the sacristan, who showed me through these lower rooms, if that were indeed one of Tetzel's chests, and he shook his head in a contemptuous wa}^, and declared that was all a false tradition. (EfrapiBr III. BERLIN. Y first entrance into Berlin was at the eventide, and darkness covered the beautiful city before I was comfortably settled at the Hotel du Nord. On subsequent visits I stopped once at the immense Central Hotel, and another time at the elegant Kaiser- hof ; but I am bound to say that, for comfort and quiet, the more homelike Hotel du Nord, near the Emperor's palace on the Unter den Linden, w^as to me most satisfactory. Al- though it was after nine o'clock in the even- ing when I arrived there, I could not rest until I had traversed the far-famed Linden, said to be one of the finest vStreets in Europe. And the next morning I arose early, and, before many people were abroad, I again walked the length of that magnificent street from the SchloSvS-Briicke to the Brandenburger Thor. But how can any one write a worthy descrip- tion, or convey any adequate idea of their beauty to those who have never seen the lifelike marble 29 30 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, groups of symbolic statuary that adorn that palace bridge ! The first group presents a lit- tle boy becoming interested in the stories of great heroes; in the next two he appears as a pupil of Minerva, learning the UvSe of arms, and receiving them as a gift from her hand. The fourth group represents him as a con- queror crowned. The other four groups rep- resent the wounded warrior raised up and in- spired to undertake new deeds of daring, assisted by Minerva in the combat, and finally carried in triumph to Olympus by Iris, the swift mes- senger of the gods. The Brandenburg Gate is a broad and lofty propylseum, wdth five passage- wa3^s, the central one always guarded by a mounted sentry, and reserved for the sole use of the royal carriages. It is surmounted by a colossal chariot of victory, drawn by four noble steeds. During the dark period at the beginning of this cen- tury, when Berlin was occupied by the troops of Napoleon, this massive piece of statuary was taken to Paris, and, like the ancient ark of Israel, remained in exile there for many years. On its restoration in 1814, the horses' heads were made to face the east. In front of this imposing gateway lies the ParivSer Platz, w^here BERLIN, 3 1 one may see the palaces of the French and the Russian embassies, of the State officers of education and religion, of Count Redern, and of Prince BKicher. Farther east is the Aquarium, containing a fine collection of fish and reptiles and birds and apes. The interior grottoes seem like underground caverns or passage-ways in the depths of the sea. But the center of greatest interest is at the opposite end of the I^inden. The palace of the late Emperor William, and the royal library around the corner; the splendid opera- house near by, and the Church of St. Hedwig just back of it, made to resemble the Pantheon at Rome; the statue of Frederick the Great, and the university buildings, with the marble statues of William and Alexander von Hum- boldt in front; the royal guard-house, and the arsenal, with its rich treasures of ancient and modern weapons of war, — are all within a stone's-throw of one standing in the midst of the area in which they are located. Across the bridge is the old royal palace, which has been in course of building, enlargement, and reno- vation for four hundred years, and is said to contain six hundred rooms. Germany — and, in fact, all Europe — abounds in palaces, and 32 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. this one is a noteworthy representative of them all. Visitors are admitted and conducted from room to room, where there seems to be no end of portraits of kings and electors and princes and queens, splendid galleries of paintings, and costly decorations, and gorgeous wainscoting, and highly-polished inlaid floors. Here we are shown vSideboards of gold and silver plate; re- ception-rooms and dining-halls and throne- chambers and bridal-chambers. In one of these great rooms hangs the crystal chandelier under which Luther stood when he pleaded for liberty of thought before the Diet of Worms. There are glass-rooms and velvet-rooms and silk-rooms and silver-rooms. From some of the windows there are fine views out upon the Linden and other portions of the cit}^ The octagonal chapel of this palace is especially impressive. The dome is more than one hundred feet in height above the marble floor, the frescoes are rich and striking, four columns of yellow Egyp- tian marble support the altar, and the pulpit is of Carrara marble. On his first visit to such a royal palace one is oppressed with the prodigal display of wealth and power; and when he learns that all this wilderness of palace-apart- ments is rarely occupied, and that the empire BERLIN. 33 has scores besides that are used for little else than public exhibition, whilst thousands of the toiling subjects of the reigning monarch have not where to lay their heads, he is prepared to hear of occasional earthquakes of anarchy and communism. AcrOvSS the open park, north of the old pal- ace, are the Royal Museums and the National Gallery. Here one might spend years and years in study of the vast and well-arranged collections of antiquities of all ages and na- tions; mural paintings and inimitable frescoes executed by distinguished masters; apartments and galleries laden with representative art- treasures from the hands of the great masters of all the early and later schools; collections of sculptures and casts and terra-cottas and coins and gems. Scarcely less interesting to some students are the collections illustrative of the life and acts of the Prussian rulers and their wives to be seen in the HohenzoUern Museum, some twenty minutes' walk distant. Here are a thousand relics and memorials of the Great Elector, and of all the Williams and Fredericks of his royal line. Here are delicate objects wrought by the hands, or else once in the service, of the idolized Queen Louise; also 3 34 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. like treasures of other famous queens. Here is the cradle that once rocked the Emperor William. Three rooms are filled with memo- rials of Frederick the Great, among which are the clothes he wore at various periods of his eventful life, and wax models of his form and face in life and in death. What an inspiration is this museum to the readers of Carlyle's '' Life of Frederick the Great!" ^ , - In another section of the city we visit the Industrial Museum, with its multitudinous fab- rics, and carvings, and plastic works, and casts, and vessels of pottery and of all sorts of met- als. And there is the Thiergarten, with its splendid monuments of art, its winding walks among the trees, its romantic drives, and beau- tiful sheets of water. Just beyond is the Zo- ological Garden, which lives in my memory yet as the finest collection of animals I saw anywhere in Europe. Perhaps that fact is due to the spell of first impressions. And what shall I say more ? For space fails me to speak of visits to the magnificent Rathhaus, and the old Nicholas Church, wherein repose the bones of Samuel Puffendorf, author of '' Law of Na- ture and of Nations ;" to the great synagogue, with its golden dome ; and the varied and im- BERLIN, 35 posing display of architecture and art in and about the theater and churches of the so-called Schiller Platz. Can I forget those hours of strolling in the old cemeteries, and meditations beside the graves of Neander and Schleier- niacher, of Fichte and Hegel and Mendels- sohn? With what delight do I recall my tour to Tegel, the home and burial-place of the Humboldt brothers, where I wandered and mused the livelong summer day among the shady avenues of the inviting forest ; also, those repeated visits to Charlottenburg, and walks through the palace and the palace gar- den there ; and that quiet mausoleum, famed not less for Ranch's marble figures of Frederick William III and his beautiful Queen Louise than for being the grave of ro3^alty ; those nu- merous rides out to Potsdam, and tiresome yet tireless wanderings there, through churches, and palaces, and villas, and gardens, and foun- tains, and forests — not excepting the lofty out- look of the Pfingstberg, and the Eden-like beauty of BabeLsberg! All these live in mem- ory, like ineffaceable pictures of a lovely dream. I know some who would blame me if I failed to record my personal contact with several royal personages of the Fatherland. The aged Em- 36 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, peror William I was in the habit of appearing, at a designated hour each day, at a window of his palace on the Linden. Great crowds gath- ered at that time to see him, and his guard, promptly at the hour, marched to the sound of music and vStationed themselves in front of the window. On my first day in Berlin I was among the crowd that gathered to look upon His Majesty. When he appeared, his face and form seemed so familiar that I felt myself standing in the presence of some old acquaintance. His portraits were so wide- spread, and so accurate, both in general ex- pression and in detail, that one w^ould recog- nize him anywhere. I utterly neglected to take off my hat, or take any part whatever in the enthusiastic greeting w^hich he received alike from citizens and soldiers ; and only after it was all over, and the Emperor had withdrawn from view^ did it occur to me how absurdly cool and unappreciative I had been in the presence of such honored roy- alty. I resolved to do better on future oc- casions ; but I little thought that I should so soon have a private audience with His Majest3^ Later in the afternoon of the same day I stopped on the sidewalk immediately below BERLIN. 37 the window at which the Emperor had shown himself, and was looking up at the palace, and thinking of him as he appeared a few hours before, when lo ! there he stood, at that identical window, looking right down at me ! I quickly removed my hat, and bowed again and again, and waved my hand in greeting, and he graciously returned my salutation, and hon- ored me with the pleasant military wave of his hand. Of course I did not withdraw until after the Emperor did! But then I returned to my friends, and made my boast that I had enjoyed the honor of a private interview with the Kaiser. Not many days later, as I was walking in the Thiergarten, I was honored by a similar happy meeting with Bismarck. Many had told me that the great Chancellor was the most difficult man among all the famous personages of Berlin to see. One might visit the Reichs- tag day after day, and fail to get a sight of this lion-like man — ''the greatest statesman on the Continent." But it was my felicity to find him out riding. I recognized the familiar face as he approached, and, as in the case of the Emperor, ''I had him all to myself;" for he passed on horseback within twenty feet of me, 38 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, and responded to my salutation with the usual military wave of the hand. It was my good fortune to meet him in the same place several times thereafter; for it was his custom to ride out on horseback in the afternoon, and to re- turn to his palace near the Thiergarten about five o'clock. It was also near this place that I had my only sight of Frederick, then Crown Prince of Germany. He was riding in an imperial car- riage, and approaching the Brandenburg Gate. No one was near me as his carriage passed within two or three rods of where I w^as stand- ing; and so, as in the other cases mentioned, it was my fortune to receive and respond to his graceful salutation. The young Prince Will- iam, who has since become the reigning Em- peror, was a familiar sight. I once rode in the same train with him from Berlin to Potsdam, and also met his wife, now^ the Empress Au- gusta Victoria, at a ''promenade concert" in the grounds of the palace of the Minister of War. Her beautiful form and graceful move- ments were the admiration of all observers. At this same lawn-party it was also my privi- lege to meet and converse with Count Andreas Bernstorff and the Countess Von Walderzee. {<::) (ttfjapfer IV. IN GERMAN UNIVERSITIES. HE chief purpose of my first visit to j^ Europe was to hear lectures in the Uni- ^^ versity of Berlin, and also to obtain, as far as practicable, an inside view of the spirit and methods of operation prevalent in several of the principal universities of Germany. These great institutions are quite unlike the schools and colleges of our own country, but are rather a combination of faculties of theology, law, medicine, and philosophy, and presuppose in the student a classical and literary training equivalent to what is usually required for grad- uation from our best colleges. The German universities are founded by the Government, the professors appointed and paid by the Gov- ernment, and the entire system is under the supervision and control of the public authority. In former times many of these institutions had no buildings, except, perhaps, that which contained the library. The professors were accustomed to provide their own lecture-rooms, 39 40 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, and generally met their classes at their own houses. At present, however, the great uni- versities have one or more public buildings, provided with suitable lecture-rooms, apparatus, and collections. The University of Berlin oc- cupies for this purpose the large palace which formerly belonged to Prince Henry, brother of Frederick the Great. The University of Stras- burg has one of the most beautiful buildings in Europe. Many others have public halls and edifices that compare favorably with the best of their kind. But no attempt is made in Ger- many, as in many American colleges, to provide dormitories and accommodations for students. Having obtained comfortable quarters in the German capital, I passed the customary forms of immatriculation in the university, and became a theological student, attending regu- larly the lectures of Professors Dillmann, Klein- ert, and Weiss. I had for many years been familiar with the published works of these dis- tinguished theologians, and it was an exquisite pleasure to see them face to face, listen to their expositions of the Scripture, and observe their style and method. Dillmann is a clear, cold, pavSsionless critic. He is pre-eminently a philologist, especially in IN GERMAN UNIVERSITIES. 4 1 Semitic languages. He has done more than any other man to supply the means for the sci- entific study of the remains of Ethiopic litera- ture, and is author of a Grammar, a Chrestom- athy, and a Lexicon of that language. He has also edited the original texts and made trans- lations of several Ethiopic works. His princi- pal contributions to exegetical theology are critical commentaries on the Pentateuch, Job, and Isaiah. During the semester of my at- tendance upon his lectures he gave a critical exposition of the Hebrew Psalter and an ex- tensive course on the Biblical theology of the Old Testament. He speaks in a low tone of voice, and without animation. He seems, most of the time, to have no consciousness of the presence of an audience, but talks right on, with closed eyes, except as he occasionally glances down on his manuscript, or turns to read and translate the Hebrew text on which he is commenting. Professor Kleinert is a man of fine physique and has a majestic voice. He speaks like a Roman orator, and seemed to me to take great delight in rolling out, ''in words of learned length and thundering sound," magnificent translations of the Hebrew prophets. I heard 42 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. his exposition of Isaiah, chapters xiii-xxiii. These chapters he assigns to various authors, and maintains that later editorship threw them together in their present form, because of their similarity as oracles against heathen nations. The most popular professor in the theological faculty at Berlin, during my attendance there, was Dr. Bernhard Weiss, well known to Eng- lish and American readers by his works on the Life of Christ, New Testament Theology, and Introduction to the New Testament. In the delivery of his lectures he is full of enthusi- asm, and keeps his arms in continual motion. His eye-glasses are adjusted to his nose and then flung oflF again about six times in every ten minutes. A cheerful smile lights up his face most of the time, and when occasionally he concludes his refutation of some exposition or theory opposed to his own, he runs into an exultation of apparent good-humor, and seems to boil over with a magnetic glee, which com- municates itself to his hearers, and usually puts the whole class in a like delightful mood. The other members of the theological fac- ulty, whom it was my good fortune to hear at different times, were Drs. Kaftan, Steinmeyer, Lrommatzsch, Pfleiderer, and Strack. I occa- IN GERMAN UNIVERSITIES. 43 sionally heard Professor Vahlen, then rector of the university, who was lecturing daily on selections from the Greek poets ; also, Professor Steinthal, a sickly-looking, feeble-voiced man, who reminded me much of the late Dr. Ezra Abbot, of Boston. It was to me a great gratification to see and hear also the venerable Professor Mommsen, author of the well-known History of Rome, who lectured four times a week on Latin Epigraphy. I visited the Universities of Gottingen, Halle, lycipsic, Bonn, and Heidelberg, and heard sev- eral of the most distinguished professors in each. At Gottingen I heard Professor Duhm « one hour on the subject of Old Testament In- troduction. He was discussing the prophecies of Hosea, and maintaining that the marriages of the prophet described in the first and third chapters could not be understood as real and historical. I there saw and heard Professor Wiesinger, a venerable-appearing man, with a head very much like that of John C. Calhoun, but a voice as tender and gentle as a woman's. He was expounding the Synoptic Gospels, and had come to a discussion of the Sermon on the Mount. Most of the hour I heard him was given to a comparison of Matthew's and Luke's 44 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, texts of the Lord's Prayer, and an explanation of the significance of certain words. Among other things, he maintained that '* our daily bread" means rather ''the morrow's bread ;" that is, food necessary for the immediate fu- ture. I also heard, at Gottingen, Professor Shultz on Old Testament Theology, and Pro- fessor De Lagarde on the Forty-second Psalm, and attended a seminary exercise in reading and translating the Hebrew text of Isaiah, conducted by the aged but vigorous Professor Bertheau. At Bonn I heard Professor Kamp- hausen on the sixteenth and seventeenth chap- ters of Genesis, and Professor Christlieb on the subject-matter of sermons as richly fur- nished by various possible methods of pre- senting the great facts and lessons of the Scriptures. At Heidelberg I heard Professor Merx discussing the vexed problems of the documents incorporated in the Book of Gene- sis, and showing what belonged to the Priest- Codex, what to the Prophetic Annalist, just where the older Elohist was discernible, and what had been added to them all by some un- known redactor. At Halle I listened to Pro- fessors Gloel and Eichhorn, both young men, apparently not over thirty years of age. At IN GERMAN UNIVERSITIES. 45 Leipsic it was my privilege to hear Franz and Friedrich Delitzsch, Luthardt, Guthe, Ryssel, and Caspar Rene Gregory. The last named is an American, who has spent many years in Germany, and acquired an enviable reputation as a New Testament critic and scholar. He was lecturing twice a week on the history and criticism of the Greek text of the New Testa- ment. I assumed sufficient boldness to approach him, after one of his lectures, and protest against his continuing as a teacher in Germany, where there is a surplus of critical scholars, when his native land was in need of many men of his ability and acquirements. I also obtained a personal interview with Professor Franz Delitzsch, and spent a most delightful evening with him, in company with several English and American gentlemen. He was then over seventy years of age, and just com- pleting the new edition of his Commentary on Genesis. In the lecture-room he spoke with a feeble voice and with great moderation, but had no lack of hearers. Unlike most German professors, he cultivated personal acquaintance with his pupils, and welcomed them to his home. In all these universities I found the meth- 46 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, ods of instruction notably uniform. The pro- fessor usually enters the lecture-room about fifteen minutes after the hour, and so the lec- ture is about forty-five minutes long. Nearly every student is provided with a note-book and writing material, and aims to take down the lecture as fully as possible. If he has the instinct of a scholar and an ambition to excel, he will improve his leisure hours in private research, and use the lectures he hears as a guide to his own further study. He will make himself familiar with the great library, and ac- quaint himself with the literature to which the lecturer refers. At the end of three or four years he presents himself for a degree, and submits to such examination as the faculty di- rects. His Anmelditngsbuch must show what lectures he has attended, and he is expected to present a written thesis and be prepared for such discussion of it as his judges may require. After he obtains his degree, he may seek oppor- tunities of giving private lectures and instruc- tion, and thus the way usually opens to an ap- pointment — first, as ''extraordinary professor;" and then, if he command attention and show distinguished ability and learning, to the high position of ''ordinary profCvSsor." IN GERMAN UNIVERSITIES. 47 The German university system has pro- duced many great scholars, and is of special value to those who seek to become proficient in some chosen field of study. But the work of individual discipline and culture is not the chief purpose of these great institutions of learning. That purpose is, rather, to furnish opportunities, facilities, and inspiration for original research in the several departments of human learning. (EfjaptBr V. IN LUTHER'S STEPS. 7HERE is no hero's name more dear to ^J^^ the heart of Protestant Germany than ^^ that of Martin Luther. In proportion as one is interested in his Hfe and work, will he visit with enthusiasm the places made fa- mous by his presence, and the German people display their honor to his memory by marking such places with some suitable monument or inscription. Even the house w^here his father lived at Mansfield bears the inscription, ''J. L., 1530," and the people of that old town still point with pride to the school-house to which Martin was taken when a little child. The tender father would sometimes carry his son to school in his arms, and exhibit the greatest care for him ; and yet, at other times, he is said to have whipped him for the merest trifle until the blood came. Wittenberg. I sought an early opportunity to visit Wit- tenberg, the place of the great reformer's prin- 48 n IN L UTHER 'S STEPS, 49 cipal labors, and where he now lies buried in the palace church by the side of his beloved Melanchthon. One of the first things to arrest our attention as we enter the town, is a small inclosure in which stands a young and vigorous oak, growing on the spot where Luther burned the papal bull. We feel that we are on his- toric ground, and that this place is indeed ''the cradle of the Reformation." A conspicuous inscription declares: ''Dr. Martin Luther ver- brannte an diese StattCy am Dec. lo^ 1520, die pabstliche Bannbulle.^^ That act, more than any other perhaps, marked the period when the great reformer utterly severed himself from the Roman power, and made all further nego- tiation and compromise impossible. The pope had said: ''So soon as this bull shall be pub- lished, the bishops shall make diligent search after the writings of Martin lyuther that con- tain these errors, and burn them publicly and solemnly in the presence of the clergy and laity. And from this very moment Martin himself must give up preaching, teaching, and writing, and commit his works to the flames." But on that memorable loth of December the unconquerable Martin, dressed in his long, Augustinian frock, led a great procession of 4 50 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, doctors and students and townspeople to this eastern gate of Wittenberg, where a suitable scaffold had been prepared. A fire was kin- dled, and as the flames mounted upward, Luther stepped forward as with the authority of an angel of God, and, holding up the pope's bull, exclaimed: ''Since thou hast vexed the Holy One of God, may everlasting fire vex and consume thee!" Thereupon he flung the doc- ument into the burning flame, and it was speedily reduced to ashes. Passing onward into the city, we go first to look into Luther's home, and what remains of the famous university in which he was made a professor at the age of twenty-five. Passing through the court of the Augusteum, which now serves for a theological seminary, we enter Luther's house — a part of the old monastery — in which he spent most of his life at Witten- berg. We ascend by a winding stairway to the apartments once occupied by the reformer and his family. Here are the chairs in which he and his beloved Catherine von Bora used to sit, and hold delightful conversation, and in- dulge in rapturous song. Here is the table on which many, perhaps most, of his works were written. Here is the stove of colored tiles IN L UTHER 'S STEPS. 5 1 which he planned, vessels out of which he ate and drank, an old pulpit from which he preached, and many manuscripts written by his hand. Here, and in adjoining rooms, are shown the hand-work of Catharine, various memorials of the Reformation period, and por- traits of the reformers and their influential co- adjutors. On the west of the Augusteum, in the grounds of the Hotel Kaiserhof, is an old vine, of great size, running up one corner of the yard, said to have been planted by the hand of Catharine von Bora. One Sunday afternoon I obtained admission to Luther's room, and spent two hours alone there, musing, and writing letters to distant friends from the table at which the reformer studied and wrote his epoch-making books. On the same street, scarcely a stone's-throw distant, is the house of Melanchthon, still kept sacred to his memory, and marked by an in- scribed tablet above the door. Visitors find ready access to the upper rooms, where the ac- complished scholar lived, and wrote his volu- minous works, and died. In the garden back of the house is a stone table at which both he and lyUther often sat, and talked, and worked together. Near by is the building which in 52 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, their time served for the purposes of the uni- versity, but is now converted into soldiers' barracks. In the market-place of the city- stand magnificent monuments erected to the honor of lyUther and Melanchthon, and at one corner of the open square is shown the house where lyUther's celebrated painter, Lucas Cra- nach, used to live. Of still greater interest is the neighboring Scklosskirche, on the doors of which the in- trepid monk and professor nailed the ninety- five theses which introduced the Reformation. ''Scarcely had they been nailed to the church- door of Wittenberg," says a well-known his- torian, ''than the feeble sounds of the hammer were followed throughout all Germany by a mighty blow that reached even the foundations of haughty Rome, threatening with sudden ruin the walls, the gates, the pillars of popery, stunning and terrifying her champions, and at the same time awakening thousands from the sleep of, error." A contemporary historian is quoted as saying that "within a fortnight those theses were in every part of Germany, and in four weeks they had traversed nearly the whole of Christendom, as if the very angels had been their messengers, and had placed them before IN L UTHER 'S STEPS, 53 the eyes of all men. No one can believe the noise they made." Within that palace church are the graves of IvUther and Melanchthon, marked by brazen slabs. It was fitting that, after their heroic work was done, these tried and faithful friends should here sleep side by side. On Sunday morning I went to the old State Church, where Luther often preached, and where the Lord's Supper was first administered ''in both kinds" after the reformers broke with Rome. Here it was my good fortune to witness the administration of this sacrament after the manner of the reformed State Churches of Germany. After the service I was shown by the sacristan the graves and monuments of Bugenhagen and other contemporaries of Luther. I lingered long before the magnifi- cent altar-piece, the work of Lucas Cranach, which represents the observance of the holy communion, with baptism and confession at the sides; while portraits of Melanchthon and Bugenhagen, and Luther preaching from a plat- form, keep watch above the vScene. In the rear of the church is a house which bears the in- scription: ''Here lived, worked, and died Dr. John Bugenhagen!" 54 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, I shall never forget that beautiful, sacred day at Wittenberg. It still lives with me as one of the most cherished recollections of all my foreign rambles. Worms. In connection with the sights of Witten- berg, I may as well record my visit to Worms. It was late one misty night in July when I arrived there, and I went at once to the hotel and retired for rest. But with the early dawn I arose and hastened out to look, first of all, upon the great monument erected here in 1868 to the memory of Luther. The rays of the morning sun were just falling upon the various figures of this historic group when I reached the spot and gave myself up to the study of their expressive faces and positions. In the center of the elevated platform, loftier and more conspicuous than any other figure, is the bronze statue of Luther, eleven feet in height The commanding posture, the firm grasp of a Bible in his hands, and the uplifted saintly face, are all adapted to exhibit the great Re- former at his best, and as he might well be supposed to have appeared at that sublimest moment of his life when he stood before the IN LUTHER 'S STEPS. 55 diet of Worms. Below this central figure, at the four corners of the massive pedestal, sit Huss, Savonarola, WyclifFe, and Waldus. On high pedestals, at the corners of the platform, stand the I^andgrave Philip of Hessen, Fred- erick the Wise, Reuchlin, and Melanchthon. Between these are three allegorical figures, in a sitting posture, representing three German cities which held memorable relations to the Reformation. Magdeburg, which suffered so deplorably by the wars of the period, sits in the garments and attitude of a mourner ; Augsburg appropriately represents Confession ; and Speyer, where the diet was held which gave name to Protestantism, is represented as pro- testing. The old episcopal palace, in which I^uther appeared before the Emperor Charles and his magnates, was long ago destroyed. It stood between the place where the monument now stands and the ancient cathedral. This last named is a massive building in the Byzantine style, richly ornamented without and within. Its foundations were laid in the eighth cen- tury, but it was not completed until the close of the twelfth. Aside from the sights now mentioned, this 56 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, ancient town has little to interest a traveler except its historical associations. The student of legendary lore remembers that Worms is prominent in the story of the Nibelungen Lied, that great medieval epic of Germany. Tra- dition has it that the two women, Brunhild and Kriemhild, first quarreled in front of this old cathedral. Here, too, the Romans dwelt, and hither the terrible Attila came, spreading de- struction in his path. Here Clovis and Char- lemagne passed many a day. But since its fearful pillage by the French in 1689, this ancient city has lost its former prestige. Eisenach. From Worms I turn away in thought to Eisenach and the glorious Wartburg ; for when lyUther was returning from the Diet at which he had refused to recant, and his life was seen to be in imminent peril, he was secretly con- veyed to this old castle, and retained here for about ten months. In early life I read D'Au- bigne's popular *' History of the Reformation,'' and can never forget the graphic passage where he narrates the story of Luther's mys- terious arrest in the Thuringian forest. As the Reformer, his brother, and another friend JN LUTHER'S STEPS. 57 were riding along a lonely road, five masked horsemen suddenly rushed upon them, drew lyUther from the wagon, placed him on horse- back, and quickly disappeared in the forest. After devious winding about in the woods, so as to elude pursuit, they returned to the spot whence they started, by which time Luther had become so exhausted that he alighted from his horse and drank from a spring by the side of the road. Then they conducted him, by un- frequented paths, to the Wartburg, where they arrived about midnight. One delightful day in June I rode from Eisenach some twelve or thirteen miles through the Thuringian forest, to visit that famous spring. A large beech-tree long marked the place, and was known as '' Luther's Beech," but it was destroyed by lightning in 184 1. In its place a fine monument, twenty feet high, has been erected, bearing the following inscription : " Here, on the 4th of May, 152 1, was Dr. Mar- tin lyUther, by order of Frederick the Wise, Elector of Saxony, seized and taken to the Wartburg Castle." On the several sides of the high marble shaft are appropriately written the Scripture texts of Psalms ex, 7 ; xviii, 3 ; and Isaiah xxxiii, 15, 16. I lingered long by that 58 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, interesting spot, and drank repeatedly of the pure, cold water of the flowing spring. It is at such places that one catches the inspiration of the olden time. On returning to Eisenach we pass an in- viting old house and gardens in the forest, vSit- uated on a lofty hill called Hohe Sonne, from which we obtain a fine view of the Wartburg Castle in the distance. Many beautiful foot- paths connect with this point. At the southern side of the hill is the Chateau of Wilhelmsthal; but the most wild and romantic footpath among these hills is the Drachenschlucht (Drag- on's Gorge), which leads down into the charm- ing ravine known as the Annathal. For a mile or more the narrow road winds between precipitous cliffs, in many places not more than three feet apart and so high as to shut out the light of day. The shady Annathal leads into the Marienthal, where picturesque parks and gardens open on either side. One who loves to ramble amid hills and rocks and woods finds in the country about Eisenach an unspeakable fullness of delight. But that which, above all other objects of interest, engages the attention of the traveler here, is the Wartburg, which crowns the sum- IN L UTHER 'S STEPS. 59 mit of a hill six hundred feet above the neigh- boring valleys. A moderate walk of less than an hour will lead one from the railroad station to this height; but it requires many a leisure stroll, and ascent and descent by different paths, to feel the full grandeur and beauty of the varying landscapes. One of my rambles, which I recall to-day with keenest relish, was a descent from the castle by winding paths which led into the Annathal. The entire walk was an experience of constant surprise and enchantment, as one charming view after an- other burst upon me. Abrupt turns, openings in the rocks ; magnificent landscapes suddenly revealed to view, and then as quickly hidden ; arbors, stone seats by the way, inviting nooks, ravines, graceful trees, little brooks and ponds of water in the distance, — all combined to deepen an impression of rustic beauty rarely to be seen. During much of the year visitors are daily as- cending and descending this attractive hill, and a guide is always in attendance to show them through such parts of the castle as are open to the public. We pass over the bridge and through a massive gateway, the old oak planks of which are relics of vanished centuries. We 6o RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, proceed over a passage-way cut in the solid rock, and enter the Vorburg, or front castle, where we are permitted to visit lyUther's room. Beyond this is the Hofburg, with its various buildings and towers. Considerable portions of the castle are reserved for the private uses of the Grand Duke of Weimar, but man}?- of the more historic apartments are open to the public. Among these, the most interesting by far is the Sangersaal (hallof the singers), where occurred many of the spirited contests of the minnesingers of medieval times. But to me, the most attractive room in the whole Wart- burg was that in which Luther, then known in the castle only as '' Yunker Georg," spent those memorable months of 1521 and 1522. Here is the table on which he commenced writing his German translation of the Bible. On one side of it is an old straight-back chair, worm-eaten, and ready to fall to pieces. His bedstead occupies one corner, and by it is a large piece of the old beech-tree that stood by the spring where he was taken. In another corner is his stove, and near it a book-case and a chest. A smaller book-case hangs against the wall, and near it ancient paintings of his father and mother. Letters written by him IN L UTHER 'S STEPS, 6 1 while here, secured in frames and under a glass cover, hang beside the portraits. On the op- posite side of the room his armor is suspended, and his portrait, near it, shows how he ap- peared as ''Knight George." Out of the win- dow one can see a landscape of entrancing beauty, stretching away westward as far as the eye can reach. Ah ! what conflicts of soul were fought out in this upper chamber ! Here, in hours of depression, Luther was wont to see strange specters. Outward forms and in- ward thoughts would at times take on a fearful personality, and once he thought he saw Satan himself standing at his right hand, to oppose and scoff at him. Tradition has it that lyUther arose from his writing-table in a passion of rage and hurled his inkstand at the devil's head. The spot on the wall where the missile struck is still pointed out, and curious visitors have cut the wood and plaster all about it for mementos of this famous instance of halluci- nation. E1S1.KBKN. I turned away from Eisenach, not without casting many a longing, lingering look behind, and passed over to Erfurt, the ancient capital of Thuringia. But, alas ! the cell of the Angus- 62 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. tinian Monastery, in which Luther in early life spent three years of marvelous conflict of soul, and cultivated his first profound convic- tions of sin, of righteousness, and of judgment, has been utterly destroyed b^^ fire. So I hast- ened on to Eisleben, the place of his birth, and where, after his mighty work was finished, he returned to die. The house in which Luther was born is now used for a school, but it is marked by an inscription over the door, and the birth-chamber is kept sacred to his mem- ory. Here are shown a number of things once owned and used by the reformer; and in the neighboring Church of St. Peter and St. Paul is the font in which he was baptized, and what are said to be portions of garments once worn by him. In another part of the town is the church in which he preached his last sermon; and just across the street from it, marked by a tablet, is the house where he expired. I en- tered, and was conducted ^to a long, narrow room on the second floor. A small recess, in the end farthest from the windows, is said to be the spot where he breathed his last. The room is now unoccupied, bare of all furniture, and kept as a holy place, to which many a Prot- estant pilgrim reverently comes. (E^apfEt VI. GLIMPSES INTO NOTABLE CITIES. O detail, in the order of their occurrence, all my journeys through the chief cities * of Europe, would be monotonous to writer and reader. As elsewhere stated, I vis- ited some of these cities many times. In the university towns, where my chief object was to observe the work of distinguished teachers, I do not stop to narrate many objects of inter- est worthy of mention. Were it my purpose to give a full account of my observations, or prepare a guide-book for others, such omis- sions would be a fatal defect; for in all these great European cities one sees picture-galleries and museums and monumental statues and ca- thedrals and parks and gardens and palaces. I found myself often wearied with the sight of almost innumerable objects of this kind. How much more might my reader be wearied with the bare recital of them ! I therefore propose, in this exceptionally long chapter, to mention only the more interesting sights and reminis- 63 64 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, cences of several famous cities in the central part of Europe. Casski.. I shall never forget the general impression of beauty and thrift which a short visit to Cas- sel left upon me. This former capital of the Electorate of Hessen has no special claims on an American, who remembers that, during the War of the Revolution, the elector, whose statue now adorns the center of the broad Friedrichs-Platz, sent twelve thousand Hes- sians to help the English crush the Colonial struggle for liberty. But those former days may now be easily forgiven, and any visitor from any nation can find much in this old Hessian town to admire. Aside from museums and picture-galleries stored with treasures of art, there are here so many handsome streets, and broad squares, and charming views of hills and valleys round about, that a pedestrian can hardly tire of walking and gazing. At the time of my visit, in June, 1887, the German Methodist Conference was in session here. One day the Conference went in a body, by a special train, to Wilhelmshohe, some four miles out of the city. No word-picture can ade- GLIMPSES INTO NOTABLE CITIES, 65 quately describe that forest park. The palace was erected about the beginning of this cen" tury, and is richly furnished, but rarely occu- pied. Its most recent fame is in the fact that it was made the prison of Napoleon III, after his capture at Sedan in 1870. The rooms the captive emperor occupied remain just as he left them when, in 187 1, he was removed to England. The wooded hills about are full of dreamy beauty. One can wander through the winding paths for hours and hours, and meet at every turn some new and delightful scene. Rocks covered with moss, temples, grottoes, waterfalls, fountains, lakes, bridges, arbors — all that taste and skill in landscape-gardening could do — furnish a wilderness of rural luxu- ries. The Riesenschloss, on the highest part of the grounds, is a lofty octagonal structure of three stories, from the top of which a pan- orama of bewildering loveliness opens to the eye on every side. This castle — erected ap- parently not for residence, but for prospect — is surmounted by an immense copper statue of Hercules. The club on which the colossal hero leans is hollow, and large enough to hold eight persons. I was satisfied to climb up into one of his feet, and look out of a window that 5 66 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, Opened from his great toe. The artificial cas- cades that descend from this castle are not the least remarkable sights of these royal grounds. The water falls from terrace to terrace, gathers up into large basins, and then tumbles again to a lower platform, and so on for a distance of three hundred yards. The great fountain far below, in front of the palace, sends up a spout of water to the height of two hundred feet or more. A look upward, from the front of the palace to the Riesenschloss, with cas- cades foaming far above and fountain playing near at hand, is the memory of a lifetime. Heidelberg. But there is another spot in Germany which, for beauty of situation and historical interest, surpasses Wilhelmshohe. It is the old town on the Neckar, which was for more than five hundred years the capital of the Rhenish Pal- atinate and residence of the Counts Palatine. Heidelberg consists mainly of one or two streets, extending along the river at the foot of the mountains a distance of three miles. Its charm is in the romantic hills and the ruined castle. The latter occupies a mountain spur three hundred feet or more above the valley, GLIMPSES INTO NOTABLE CITIES. 67 and is said to be the most picturesque and magnificent ruin of Germany. Its foundations were laid by Rudolph I, near the close of the thirteenth century ; but later counts and elec- tors added building after building, palace after palace, with courts and towers and fortresses, for the space of three centuries, until the con- nected structures became a mountain city in itself. Visitors are conducted through ancient halls and courts, up to the lookout places of the towers; down into subterranean passage- ways and cellars, in one of which is shown an immense cask, thirty-six feet long and twenty- four high, and said to have a capacity of fifty thousand gallons. On the side towards the mountain lies the unbroken mass of masonry known as ''The Blasted Tower," so solid in its construction that when blown up by the French, in 1689, it was only broken into two parts — the base remaining in position, and the upper half falling as one piece into the moat below. Around this splendid ruin are gardens of beauty, and terraces and walks and shady nooks and running waters, worthy of compar- ison with the ideal conceptions of the ''Arabian Nights." Charming walks for rambles lead in all directions. One may climb the wooded 68 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, hills, or roam the vineyards of the "Philoso- pher's Path" across the Neckar, or wander away to the '' Wolfsbrunnen," or make more ex- tensive excursions along the river beyond. The principal objects of interest to me in. the city were the Church of St. Peter, where Jerome of Prague propounded his theses and maintained his doctrines at the beginning of the fifteenth century; and the university. The church has nothing besides the fact just men- tioned to give it celebrity; but the universit}^ founded in 1386, is the third oldest in Europe. Its library is said to contain over three hun- dred thousand volumes; its professors number about one hundred, and its students seven hundred. I had been trained in childhood in the Heidelberg Catechism, and it was a matter of historic interest to remember that this place was once the citadel of German Calvinism, and gave its name to one of its standard text- books. WURZBURG. It is an interesting ride by rail from Heidel- berg to old Wiirzburg, a predominantly Cath- olic town, and the seat of a universit}^ espe- cially famous for its medical department. One of the first things to arrest attention is the GLIMPSES INTO NOTABLE CITIES, 69 great bridge over the Main, six hundred feet in length, resting on eight arches, and orna- mented with numerous statues of the saints. Passing from the bridge up a broad street, we come to the cathedral, which was erected in the twelfth century. It has four towers, and is richly ornamented. Close by it, on the north, is the Neumiinster Church, which was built in the eleventh century, and contains the bones of St. Kilian, the apostle of Thuringia and bishop of Wiirzburg in the year 687. Here, too, lies buried, since 1230, that most famous minnesinger of the Middle Ages, Walter of the Vogelweid, and a tablet is erected to his memory. Passing on from this point through the Hof Strasse, we come to the Episcopal Palace, one of the most magnificent residences in the world. It contains two hundred and eighty rooms, besides a chapel and a theater. Its halls and imposing staircase and spacious apartments are adorned with frescoes, and its cellars are said to contain two hundred casks of wine! The gardens and promenades about this palace are in keeping with its general dis- play of grandeur and beauty. The university of this place was founded in 1582, and is closely associated with the Julius 70 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, Hospital, so called after Bishop Julius, who founded both the university and the hospital. The medical faculty of the university are also the physicians and surgeons of the hospital. There are also faculties of Political Science and theology, the latter of ultramontane type, and the professors and students altogether number about a thousand. On a lofty eminence across the river stands the castle of Marienberg, famous for many a siege during the long period of three hundred years. It commands a wide and beautiful pros- pect over the surrounding country. Nuremberg. A three hours' ride by rail, southeast of Wiirzburg, brings us to what is often called ''the quaintest old city of all Germany." " Quaint old town of toil and traffic, Quaint old town of art and song, Memories haunt thy pointed gables Like the rooks that round them throng." The city is situated on the banks of the Peg- nitz, and is encompassed by a double line of fortified walls, separated by a deep, broad moat. The watch-towers on the w^alls are said to be GLIMPSES INTO NOTABLE CITIES. 7 1 seventy in number. The best way of first *' taking in " the general features of the town is to walk around the walls, and mark all their bulwarks, and frequently descend into the moat below and examine the gardens and winding paths therein. The twelve gates are not twelve pearls, but they afford an interesting study, es- pecially those with the four round towers ; and the bridges which cross the Pegnitz are adorned with many architectural designs of real beauty. Many of the streets of the city are made pic- turesque by the displa}^ of quaint medieval ar- chitecture, and the statues of saints and angels and heroes, which are more than can be told. There are three churches which no visitor can afford to pass without examination. First in interest is that of St. Sebald, with its mag- nificent portals and statuary as seen without, and its wealth of art treasures within. Among the latter, the most notable is the bronze mon- ument of St. Sebald, the master-work of the artist Vischer, and the labor of thirteen studi- ous years. Around the sarcophagus which contains the ashes of the saint, figures of ''the twelve apostles guard from age to age their trust," and below it are pictured in relief the traditional miracles of his life, whilst above 72 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. and around is a great number of fathers and prophets and symbolical figures. Five minutes' walk southward from this place 1 brings us to the celebrated Church of St. Lau- rence. The entire western fagade is an ideal dream of beauty in stone. The gilded copper- covered towers, the windows of stained glass, the fine interior, Stoss's portraiture of the Sal- utation of the Virgin, carved in wood and sus- pended from the roof, and the splendid candel- abrum in the choir, are all beautiful beyond description. But the rarest treasure of all is the Gothic, tower-shaped pyx in the choir, sixty-five feet high, on which the sculptor Krafft and his assistants toiled for seven years. Standing before this wonderful work of art we recall the lines of Longfellow : *' In the church of sainted Laurence Stands a pyx of sculpture rare, Like the foamy sheaf of fountains Rising through the painted air." The Frauenkirche, or Church of Our Lady, stands midway between the two described above, and its fagade, and sculptures, and stained glass, and old armorial bearings, and numerous monuments, are full of interest, as GLIMPSES INTO NOTABLE CITIES. 73 is also the lofty ornamented pyramid across the street, known as the Schone Brunnen, or Beautiful Fountain. From these churches we pass on to the old castle, foimded in the early part of the elev- enth century by the Emperor Conrad II, and more than a century later enlarged by Fred- erick Barbarossa. In the court stands an an- cient lime-tree, said to be as old as the castle itself. The various apartments, and especially the towers of the palace and the spacious bal- cony, afford magnificent views over all the city and the country round about. The apartments which contain the collection of instruments of torture are so many chambers of horror. Here one sees thumb-screws, and racks, and weights, and pulleys, and galling-irons, and such other inventions of cruelty as a fiendish ingenuity devised to punish heretics and criminals. Not the least horrible to see is the large wooden fig- ure of a female, hollow on the inside, and filled with sharp iron spikes so set as when closed to pierce, in a score of places at once, the un- happy victim condemned to be crushed within its awful grip. It is a relief to turn away from such a col- lection of horrors, and walk out beyond the 74 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, walls to St. John's Churchyard, and muse be- side the graves of Dlirer and Stoss and Sachs, and repeat the lines of our American poet, whose verses on Nuremberg are an excellent guide-book to the place. *' Here, when art was still religion. With a simple, reverent heart. Lived and labored Albrecht Diirer, The Evangelist of Art. Here Hans Sachs, the cobbler-poet, Laureate of the gentle craft, Wisest of the twelve wise masters, In huge folios sang and laughed. Not thy Councils, not thy Kaisers, Win for thee the world's regard ; But thy painter, Albrecht Diirer, And Hans Sachs, thy cobbler-bard." And here I will end my writing about Nu- remberg; for to go on. and describe the quaint private houses, and the library of rare old specimens of books and manuscripts, and the National Museum, with its seventy-five rooms of antiquities and paintings and illustrations of art and industry, would be to leave too little to the imagination of my readers. glimpses into notable cities. 75 Munich. It is hard to pass by such a city as Ratis- bon, with its magnificent Cathedral of St. Peter, and its historical old Rathhaus, and its ancient Benedictine Abbey, and its tomb of Kepler. We ought to run down the Danube, six miles below Ratisbon, and visit the beautiful Wal- halla on the hill, that marble ''temple of fame," designed to enshrine the mythology and his- tory of the German people. We ought just as much to run up the Danube to far-famed Ingolstadt, where Reuchlin taught, and Loyola found his ''little Benjamin." And how can I omit the mention of my stop at Augsburg and my good accommodations in that "oldest hotel of the world," the Drei Mohren? But all these places must be passed over lightly when we have such a superior city as Munich to de- scribe. In treasures of art this capital of Ba- varia is worthy of comparison with Paris or Berlin. Turn where you will about its beau- tiful streets, you meet with costly and impos- ing buildings, churches of all sizes and designs, museums and picture-galleries and triumphal arches and palaces and gardens and bridges and monumental statuary. We will take a 76 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, walk through this city of well-nigh half a mill- ion souls, and yet try to keep in mind that, with what we have said of Berlin, and with Dresden and Vienna and Constantinople and Rome and Paris and London yet to see, we must not linger too long on sights, however beautiful, when there are so many of similar character to notice elsewhere. In order to look at the principal sights of the city in the shortest time, we pass from the central railroad station eastward, and find our way to the Max Joseph's Platz. In the midst of this open square we pause a moment by the side of the colossal statue to behold the objects of interest in view. The post-office, on the south side, presents a front of admirable architecture; and the National Theater, on the east, is one of the largest in the world, the stage alone being nearly one hundred feet square. But the Royal Palace, on the north side, occupies more space, apparently, than post-office and theater and platz combined. We enter, and find that at appointed hours a guide is ready, as in the old palace of Berlin, to conduct visitors through such apartments as are open to the public. Here, as in all the great palaces, chamber opens into chamber. GLIMPSES INTO NOTABLE CITIES, 77 and each is known by its appropriate name. There are really three palaces in one; namely, the old residence, the banquet-hall, and the king's building. They are magnificently fur- nished and arranged, and one becomes almost bewildered as he passes through rooms of crys- tal, and sumptuous bedchambers with gilded bedsteads, and treasure-rooms of jewels and diamonds, and goblets of gold and silver, and various specimens of all precious stones. The banquet-hall building, over eight hundred feet in length, has a series of six large saloons, on the walls of which are paintings illustrative of scenes described in the Odyssey of Homer. Here are adjacent chambers, filled with ex- quisite paintings and statuary, and many of them commemorating great historic personages or events. Here are the Halls of Charle- magne and of Barbarossa; the Battle-room and the Throne-room and the Room of Hapsburg. But the paintings which made on me the deep- est and most lasting impression are Schnorr's celebrated frescoes of the Nibelungen Lied. These are in the so- called king's building, or new palace, and represent in life-like form the principal characters and events of Germany's great medieval epic. 78 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. If one has a taste and desire to look at cu- rious and costly coaches, carriages, sleighs, and hiarness, let him step to the east side of the palace, and examine to his heart's content the vast collections of the royal stables. From the palace we pass on northwards, through the broad and beautiful Ludwigs Strasse. Here, on every side, rise statues and churches and palatial residences. Midway we . come to the Royal Library, said to contain more than a million volumes. Colossal statues of Aristotle, Hippocrates, Homer, and Thu- cydides adorn the steps in front; the entire building is of exquisite workmanship; and no- where else in the world can one see a more unique collection of rare and curious books and manuscripts than are exposed in glass cases in one of the rooms within. Just beyond the library is the lyudwigs Church, which one should enter if only to look a moment on Cor- nelius's great fresco-painting of the Last Judg- ment. Still further on we come to the open circle, adorned with fountains, around which are the buildings of the university; and a lit- tle further on is the magnificent Gate of Vic- tory, more imposing and impressive than the Brandenburg Gate at Berlin. . GtlMPSES INTO NOTABLE CITIES, 79 Returning now to the Royal Palace, we there turn westward along the Brienner Strasse, pass the Wittlesbach Palace on the right, and come to the lofty obelisk, oyer a hundred feet high, cast out of cannon captured in war, and erected to the memory of thirty thousand men of Ba- varia who fell in wars with Russia. A few steps further westward we enter the Konig's Platz, and stand in front of the imposing gate- way known as the Propylaeum. At first sight it reminds one of a Grecian temple, like the Parthenon, set between two massive square towers. Above the Doric columns are sculp- tured fine reliefs, exhibiting scenes from the Grecian wars of independence. On the south side of the Konig's Platz is the Exposition Building, where the artists of Munich exhibit and offer for sale the creations of their own genius, or copies of the works of famous mas- ters. A little farther on is the Basilica of St. Boniface, an imitation of the ancient Roman basilicas; thirty-six monoliths of gray marble support the glorious gilded dome, and the in- terior is decorated with numerous frescoes by accomplished artists. On the north side of the Konig's Platz is that immense collection of sculptures which bears the name of the Glyp- 8o RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. tothek. The building runs around a large open court, and consists of thirteen halls, richly stored with monuments of art from Assyria, Egypt, Greece, and Rome. Some of these rooms are adorned with magnificent fres- coes, and others contain sculptures by modern masters. Here, as in other like collections, one can wander and gaze until his eyes grow dim, and then feel that he has given the treas- ures only a passing glance, when months and years might be spent in profitable study of them. But why stop to speak of these works of art as so many and so various, when, five minutes' walk northward from this Glyptothek, we find two vast buildings — the Old Pinako- thek and the New Pinakothek — constituting together a national repository of pictures nu- merous as the stars of heaven? Here one may find representatives of all the schools of paint- ing, chronologically arranged, with the name of each artist, so far as known, attached to his work. Here, again, one finds a wilderness of halls and galleries and cabinets and side-rooms filled with most costly productions of masters ancient and modern. And yet, as if these im- mense collections were insufficient to supply the art-appetite of the Bavarians, there stands GLIMPSES INTO NOTABLE CITIES. 8 1 not far away the picture-gallery of Count Scliack, said to be the finest collection of Ger- man pictures in the world. On the opposite side of the city, in the broad Maximilian Street, is the Bavarian Na- tional Museum, richly stored with specimens of art and industry collected from all lands, and so arranged as to show the progress of civilization from the earliest periods down to modern times. My reader may well imagine that the whole city runs to art; but, indeed, I have not told all. There is the Bronze Foundry, with its great collection of models; and the Arsenal, with its museum full of banners and uniforms and specimens of arms that repre- sent the varying modes of warfare for five hundred years. The churches are full of pic- tures. The squares of the city and chief places of concourse are adorned with splendid monu- ments. In front of the magnificent Hall of Fame, in the southwestern part of the city, stands the colossal statue of Bavaria, said to be second in size only to the historic Colossus of Rhodes. It is the figure of a female, sixty- five feet in height; her brow adorned with sprigs of oak; her left hand elevated and hold- ing a wreath, her right hand holding a sword; 6 82 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. while at her right side, in a sitting posture, is the symbolical Bavarian lion. This marvelous statue, cast from the bronze of Turkish and Norwegian cannon, stands upon a pedestal thirty feet high, and steps lead up to it in front, so that from one who stands at the foot of the steps, the wreath which the figure holds aloft is much more than a hundred feet above. Vis- itors go up by an inside stairway, enter the hollow head of this symbolic Colossus, and find there two sofas, and ample room to walk about, and magnificent views through aper- tures which serve for windows. But I must leave this city of a thousand charms, and the only way to do it is to stop short and tear my- self away. Wkimar. There are three or four other German cities I must notice before I close this chapter. The memory of Goethe led me to the city that will ever be associated with his name, as well as with the names of Herder and Wieland and Schiller. This immortal quartet shed an im- perishable luster over the capital and court of the Grand Duke Karl- August ; but that luster GLIMPSES INTO NOTABLE CITIES. 83 is now a matter of tradition and monuments and graves. I stop not to write about the beautiful museum of art and its treasures, and the ducal palace and library, which anywhere else would demand a full description. I walk straight to the city church, built about the middle of the fifteenth century, and pause awhile in front of the bronze statue of Herder, '' erected by the Germans of every land." Next I pass to the rear of the church, and look upon the parsonage so long occupied by the author of ''The Spirit of Hebrew Poetry" and the *' Philosophy of the History of Mankind." Then I walk reverently into the old church, and stand upon the stone which covers his dust, and read upon it the touching inscription : ''Light, lyove. Life." The spirit of Herder seems to pervade the atmosphere of all things round about that tomb. No one will leave the church without an admiring gaze upon Cranach's magnificent picture of the Cruci- fixion. I next find my way to the Schiller Strasse, and enter the "house on the corner," where Germany's great poet of the heart lived, mused, Joyed, wrote, and die4. Her^ th^ visitor is 84 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. always welcomed, and shown the rooms and various mementos of the beloved poet. The house is owned by the city, and kept sacred to the memory of its famous occupant. Goethe's house is in the immediate neighborhood, and more accessible to visitors now than in former years. I was taken through the various rooms, and into his study, and into the rear passage- way to the garden where he and Schiller and other friends were wont to hold their sweet fellowship together. I was even permitted to walk about that private garden, and under the trees which the poet loved. The pictures, stat- uary, and other objects of interest about the house, are interesting chiefl}^ from their associ- ations with the great genius that once presided here. I had visited the house in Frankfort-on- the-Main where Goethe was born, and the house in Leipsic where he studied, and even Auer- bach's Keller in that city, and the Hexetitayiz- platz in the Hartz Mountains made famous by their mention in his great drama o( Faust; but this house in Weimar exceeds them all in the impressiveness of its associations. Here, when old and knowing that his end w^as drawing near, he penned those inimitable lines of dedi- GLIMPSES INTO NOTABLE CiTlES, 85 cation to the Faust, the last two stanzas of which are thus translated by Bayard Taylor: ''They hear no longer these succeeding measures, The souls to whom my earliest songs I sang; Dispersed the friendly group, with all its pleasures. And still, alas! the echoes first that rang! I bring the unknown multitude my treasures; Their very plaudits give my heart a pang. And those beside, whose joy my song so flattered. If still they live, wide through the world are scattered. And grasps me now a long unwonted yearning For that serene and solemn spirit-land ; My song, to faint ^olian murmurs turning. Sways like a harp-string by the breezes fanned. I thrill and tremble; tear on tear is burning, And the stern heart is tenderly unmanned. What I possess I see far distant lying, And what I lost grows real and undying." The monument erected in front of the the- ater to the honor of both Goethe and Schiller is a most happy conception. The two fast friends stand clasping hands together, as if showing to every passer-by that they are united in an inseparable love; and in death they are not divided. Ten or fifteen minutes' walk dis- tant is the Grand Ducal Vault, where the oak coffins of Goethe and Schiller have been placed side by side, and covered with wreaths of Wrel. 86 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. Never shall I forget that quiet, beautiful Sunday in June, 1887, when I rested at Weimar. I attended the morning service at the memo- rable City Church, and sat during the worship near to the grave of Herder. In the afternoon I visited the spot where the mortal remains of Goethe and Schiller rest, plucked laurel-leaves from their coffins, and sent them to friends across the sea. And then I strolled out to the park, and walked about the summer-house of Goethe there, and through the charming arbors and rustic winding paths where, many a time, that master spirit and his most intimate and honored friends had walked and talked to- gether. Dresden. I shall detain my readers in Dresden only to pay a visit to three places of very remark- able interest — the Johannean Museum, the Green Vault, and the world-renowned picture- gallery. In the first named we find a collec- tion of porcelain which is a veritable wilder- ness of Indian, Chinese, JapanCvSe, French, and German works, so arranged as to captivate and long detain lovers of the ceramic art, and to bewilder and astonish other less intelligent observers. The vast collection is said to num- GLIMPSES INTO NOTABLE CITIES. 87 ber fifteen thousand specimens. More capti- vating to me was the Historical Museum, on the first floor of the same great building. Here is Germany's richest treasure-house of national antiquities. Some ten or twelve large rooms are filled with such objects as the ar- mor in which knights of the Middle Ages fought in battle and in tournament. Here are swords, spears, helmets, and battle-axes made notable by use in some historic fray ; here are firearms of the sixteenth and seventeenth cen- turies; here are Hussite battle-clubs ; here are exhibited the sword of Peter the Great, and that of Charles XII of Sweden, and also the armor of Gustavus Adolphus; here hangs the blood-stained scarf worn by the Elector Mau- rice at the battle of Sievershausen, and here is the bullet which took his life away; here are the gilded costumes once worn by mighty kings and princes, and the sumptuous trap- pings of their horses ; here are the boots worn by Napoleon at the battle of Dresden, and the velvet shoes worn on the occasion of his coro- nation. In one room is the costly tent of the Grand Vizier Mustapha, which was captured by the Polish General, John Sobieski, when he came, in 1683, to the rescue of Vienna, then 88 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, T besieged by the Turkish army. One might spend many months among these collected me- morials of peace and war, and then feel that he had not half examined them. But many, who would not care to spend so much time in the stud}^ of implements of war and reminiscences of battle, would find ex- quisite delight in a prolonged study of the jewels and works of art in the ''Green Vault," so called on account of the color of the walls in one of the principal rooms. Here is an all but endless collection of diamonds and pearls, and precious stones of every hue ; here are all manner of vessels of gold and silver and crystal and ivory and shell and rare and costly wood ; here is the king's plate, and also a vast cabinet of coins ; here is a display of weapons, arranged according to the number and value of the precious stones with which they are decorated, — there is one bow which is studded with over six hundred and fifty dia- monds; here is an onyx seven inches high, believed to be the largest in the world. But I must leave thCvSe treasure-halls, and take a look at the famous picture-gallery in the ''Zwinger." This magnificent collection of paintings is the pride and glory of Dresden, GLIMPSES INTO NOTABLE CITIES, 89 and need not fear comparison with those of Paris or Florence or Rome. To attempt any formal description of the numerous master- pieces here would be foreign to the purpose of these pages. Their number runs into the thousands, and the fame of some of them has gone the wide world over. I was of course eager to see the famous " Madonna di San Sisto," and hastened to that well-known corner room which holds it as its one great treasure. I was disappointed. I had heard so much, and expectation was so high, that the first sight troubled me, and after a few minutes I turned away, and found, as I thought, scores of supe- rior works. The paintings which first and al- ways imprCvSsed me deeply, and remain fixed indelibly in memory, are Hoffman's Christ in the midvSt of the Doctors, Hiibner's Dispute of Luther and Eck, Grosse's Dante and Virgil at Purgatory, Angelica Kauffmann's VCvStal Vir- gin, and Titian's Tribute Money. I recall the striking colors in *' The Son's Last Greeting," by Hofif, and the vSuggestive picture of '' Paint- ing and Drawing," painting being represented by a woman, drawing by a man. I have no doubt that others, better versed in art, may justly condemn my notions, and wonder that 90 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. ^^j I do not mention more of the great pro-Hi ductions in which this gallery abounds. Ma- donnas, madonnas, madonnas, look down upon you in almost every room ; Correggio's ''La Notte" and Sarto's ''Abraham's Sacrifice" ought to be mentioned; and every room has that which awakens emotions of the beau- tiful, But I will only add my experience in making repeated visits to the room of the Sistine Madonna. Day after day, as I repeated my journey to that famous room, and lingered longer and longer every time, I found myself becoming captivated with the vision of an in- explicable mystery. Those rifted clouds, those wondrous eyes, that subtle, mystic spell of blissful awe ! It was, perhaps, the thirteenth visit, that I found myself musing quietly on a seat in the corner, and jotting down these words : O thou embodiment of many a dream ! What inspirations to purity, and hope, and heavenly- mindedness hast thou kindled in the countless pilgrims from all lands who have come hither to behold thee! What tears have started in the eyes of intelligence and beaut}^ at the thoughts of what such silent lips can whisper to one's soul! The master hand that called thee GLIMPSES INTO NOTABLE CIIIES, 9 1 into being has long since turned to dust, but thou remainest like a thing of life, and in thee Raphael's creative genius will speak to gener- ations yet unborn. Live on, beautiful ma- donna ! Though but a painted and perishable form, thou art an apocalypse of art; and years and years to come, long after we who stand gazing up at thee to day are all in dust, the pilgrim train will journey to this spot, and look, and dream, and linger, and adore, smitten by the enchantment of thy mysterious power ! Prague. A hundred things in and about Dresden in- vite one to prolong his stay ; but we go on to visit the old capital of Bohemia. Two hours, by rail, from Dresden, we reach the Austrian frontier. The charming valley of the Elbe, and the delightful opportunities for rambling among the neighboring rocks and hills, were so impressive that I stopped off at Bodenbach, and tarried for a day, to gratify a taste for sight-seeing and pedestrian excursions among those romantic mountains. Passing on to Prague, one soon feels that he is among people of a strange language, and in the midst of what was once the theater of great events. Here, 92 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, too, is a somewhat ancient city, representing a period of more than a thousand years. It is the seat of the oldest university of Germany, and numbers at present some thirty-five hun- dred Bohemian and German students. The Jewish quarter boasts a synagogue of great antiquity, founded, according to tradition, in the first century of the Christian era. Here, too, is an ancient Jewish cemetery, cov- ered thickly with memorial stones. Some of these stones bear long Hebrew inscriptions and curious symbols of the tribe to which the de- ceased claimed to belong. The Jewish popula- tion of the city is said to number twent}^ thou- sand. The student of ChrivStian history is aware that Prague was the home of some of the most notable ''reformers before the Reformation." Huss and Jerome and Ziska are names that will ever be associated with the earliest strug- gles against the medieval corruptions of the Romish Church. The house once occupied b}^ John Huss is now marked by a tablet bearing the face of the reformer, and the Tcyn-KircJu\ in which he and the Hussites worshiped, is one of the most notable structures of the town. But the factions and fanaticism of man)' of the GLIMPSES INTO NOTABLE CITIES. 93 Hussites, and the position of Prague and Bo- hemia in the midst of jealous and ambitious rivals for thrones and empire, led to the ulti- mate failure of Protestantism in this seat of its early triumphs. I took an early opportunity to drive out to the famous " White Mountain," some four miles northwest of the city, and look upon the field where Bohemian Protestantism met its fate in battle. Here, in 1620, Maximilian of Bavaria led the forces of the Roman Catholic League, and, in a short, sharp, but decisive conflict of an hour, utterly defeated the army of Protest- ants. From that bitter and humiliating defeat the cause of Protestantism has never rallied in this region. Returning through the Reichsthor^ we stop at the Abbey of Strahow, look at the tombs of St. Norbert and General Pappenheim, admire Diirer's great painting of the angel-crowned Virgin and Child, and from the window of an upper room survey the city below and the' enchanting landscape beyond. From this Ab- bey we pass the Franz Joseph's Barracks and the Capuchin Monastery, and go on to ''the Hradschin," a vast group of imperial build- ings commanding the whole city and valley 94 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. below. Here we enter a spacious quadrangle surrounded by palaces of archbishop, princes, and emperor; thence we proceed through arched gateways and open courts to the great cathedral, in which one may find a wealth of monuments and paintings and carved wood- work comparable with anything of the kind in Europe. Adjoining is the vast imperial pal- ace, in one of the ample rooms of which some medieval tournaments were held. Visitors are shown through the various parts of this palace, as they are in other famous palaces of Europe. One of its most interesting apartments is the old council chamber, with a side-room like a prison-cell, and various articles of furniture which savor of the rude old times. From one of the windows of this room two royal coun- selors were hurled by order of Count Thurn, and from this act of violence it is common to date the beginning of the ''Thirty-years' War." Two small monuments beneath the window, bearing the names of Martinitz and Slawata, mark the place where the Catholic counselors fell; and tradition says that they were so pro- tected by the power of unseen angels that they did not seriously suffer by that fall of seventy feet or more. GLIMPSES INTO NOTABLE CITIES, 95 There are other buildings of interest con- nected with this palatial capitol; but one spot which will be remembered with a sense of hor- ror is the Black Tower, beneath which, in a deep subterranean vault, the victims of impe- rial wrath are said to have been lowered and left to perish in hunger and darkness and despair. To the north of these palaces, across the road, is the Kaisergarten and the copper-roofed and richly decorated Belvedere, where Tycho Brahe and the gloomy and bigoted Rudolf II are said to have watched the stars and talked about the imaginary philosopher's stone. Be- low the hill, as we move on towards the bridge across the Moldau, we come to the palaces of Fiirstenberg and Wallenstein, in the latter of which are many objects of interest, not the least being the stuffed skin of a favorite horse of the great general — the very horse he rode at the battle of lyiitzen. Further on, we pass the beautiful monument of Radetzky, and come to the Karlsbriicke itself, one of the most interesting monuments in all the city. It rests on sixteen noble arches, and is over sixteen hundred feet in length. Its massive walls and buttF?3ses give i^ ft look of ^oUdityi ^tid it^ i^u* 96 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, merous groups of statuary afford an interesting stud}^ A marble slab and cross mark the spot where John of Nepomuk, after having been cru- elly tortured and bound hand and foot, was, by the order of the Emperor Wenceslas, cast into the river because he refused to reveal to him the secrets of the confessional. Near the spot a bronze statue of the martyr has been erected, and I often noticed devout Catholics bowing and crossing themselves as the}^ passed by this memorial of the holy man, whom they regard as the patron saint of Prague. This old bridge has been the scene of many a bitter conflict, and the old tower at the eastern end has served as a fortress in time of siege. Leaving the bridge, we pass the grand statue of Charles IV, the founder of the university, and come to the group of buildings known as the Jesuit College, a large portion of which is devoted to the pur- poses of the university. Further on we come to the Rathhaus, the principal chamber of which contains Brozik's celebrated painting of ''John Huss before the Council of Constance." In the lower part of the great tower on the corner is a remarkable clock, which, though smaller than the celebrated clock of Strasburg, makes a dis- play of the twelve apostles every hour. GLIMPSES INTO NOTABLE CITIES. 97 The Open square in front of this Rathhaus has been the scene of several bloody execu- tions. Here Wallenstein, after the battle of lyiitzen, had eleven of his chief officers be- headed; and here, after the victory of the Catholic League on the White Mountain, the Protestant nobles were publicly executed with the huge sword which is still shown in the Bohemian Museum not far away. Prague is a walled city, and one could spend many days in observing her bastions and bulwarks and gates and towers ; but she is only the third city of Austria, and we must move on, to look a little at the first. Vienna. Some two hundred and fifty miles southeast of Prague, in a vast plain lying between the Alps on the west, and the Carpathian Moun- tains on the east, we come to the great city which the Germans call Wien, but identical with the ancient Roman Vindobona, where the mild and philosophical Emperor Marcus Aure- lius died. But how is it that I enter this mag- nificent city, which we English people agree to call Vienna, with no particular enthusiasm or delight ? Few cities in the world have more attractions for the average traveler. Beautiful, 7 98 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, beautiful beyond description, are these broad streets and palatial buildings and inviting gar- dens and parks, and their innumerable treas- ures of art. But, narrow Protestant that I am, and vexed beyond endurance with the dark tale of wars and jealousies and ambitions and plots and Romish bigotry, for which the polit- ical history of Austria has been noted, I ap- proached this capital of the Hapsburgs with less enthusiasm than I had felt in visiting little Wittenberg. What European war for the last six hundred 3^ears, undertaken for the suppres- sion of human liberty, or for the gratification of some inglorious lust of power, has not had either the active co-operation or the approval of the power that ruled at Vienna? Read the miserable record of the feuds and fights of European States through all these centuries, and note what an unenviable figure Austria cuts among them. The ruling spirit has ever been that of oppressive and selfish despotism. What crimes against humanity may be justly charged against the house that made itself a willing leader in wars to crush out the life and liberties of Bohemia, Poland, and Hungary! But though inwardly full of extortion and excess, the outside of this cup and platter is GLIMPSES INTO NOTABLE CITIES. 99 worth looking at; and even her whited sepul- chers, though full of dead men's bones, are outwardly beautiful to the eye. The best first impression may be had by a ride — or a walk, if one prefer — through the entire length of the Ring Strasse, a circular street one hundred and fifty feet wide, on which many of the principal structures of the city are located. In some places this street is over two hundred feet wide. It occupies the site of the ramparts of the old city, and its circuit has the form of a horseshoe, with the great Danube Canal as its base. At the point corresponding with the toe of this horseshoe is the Royal Palace, where the rulers of Austria have had their citadel for five hundred years. Standing by the castle- gate which leads up to the palace, one may look around upon a scene of architectural mag- nificence and beauty that is scarcely surpassed in any other city of the world. To right and left extend the inviting grounds of the Hof- garten and the Volksgarten, adorned with statues; and the Temple of Theseus, which contains one of the finest creations of Canova's genius. Across the way are the two imperial museums, devoted to collections in natural history and art. The exterior decorations dis- lOO RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. play a wealth of statuary and artistic finish that draws the lingering gaze of every passer-by. The Palace of Justice and the Houses of Par- liament adjoining on the northwest, and the imposing buildings about the Schiller Platz on the southeast of the Royal Museums, are in admirable keeping with the various magnifi- cence of the entire scene. The Schiller Monu- ment in the platz is a thing of beauty. The bronze statue of the poet stands upon a pedes- tal, around which are symbolic figures of Ge- nius, Poetry, Science, and Love. Crossing the way again northward, we come to the *' Alber- tina," a rich and rare collection of drawings and engravings, and a library of fifty thousand volumes. Close by it is the Imperial Opera- house, with its outer and inner decorations of almost fabulous beauty. ♦ Returning now to the imperial palace, we may enter and behold many things common to all the great palaces of Europe — broad courts and imposing audience-chambers, and ball- rooms and galleries and sumptuous halls. The royal library is said to contain four hundred and ten thousand volumes and twenty thou- sand manuscripts, many of them most rare and curious. The treasury contains a vast collec- GLIMPSES INTO NOTABLE CITIES. lOI tion of costly and curious articles, such as all kinds of precious stones and jewelry, cups and dishes, and crowns and swords that have each an interesting histor3^ Here are shown the sword and scepter and crown of Charlemagne ; and, if one can only believe it, some fragments of the ''true cross," and the spear which pierced the Savior's side ! Hard by the palace are two churches of peculiar interest — the Augustine Church, fa- mous for Canova's monument of Maria Chris- tina; and the Loretto Chapel, where the hearts of deceased members of the royal family are preserved in urns. The Capuchin Church contains the imperial vault, where one may look upon the coffins which hold the dust of Austrian royalty. Here is the sarcophagus of Maria Theresa; here, too, is that of the unfor- tunate Maximilian of Mexico, across which two silver wreaths are laid. Here, in like richly decorated caskets, rest the mortal re- mains of dukes and archdukes, and emperors, and kings and queens, and princes and prin- cesses. Mention should also be made of the great Church of St. Stephen, ten minutes' walk to the northeast of this vault of Austrian kings. It has the form of a Latin cross, and is three I02 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, hundred and thirty-five feet long. Its outer and inner carvings and sculpture, its towers and windows and subterranean catacombs, make it one' of the most notable structures of its kind. From its lofty tow^er one can look down on the battle-field of Wagram, famous in the wars of Napoleon. Outside the ancient and inner city, bounded by the Ring Strasse, the modern Vienna ex- tends in all directions, and holds a population of more than a million. Perhaps the most in- teresting spot in all these outlying sections is that terraced garden, on the south side, where we find the two famous buildings now known as the Upper and Lower Belvedere. The Up- per Belvedere contains one of the most ex- tensive picture-galleries of the w^orld, and the Lower is noted for its remarkable collection of antiquities and rare and curious works of art. Farther to the south is the Arsenal, which has a museum of weapons and trophies of war, in which those w^ho are fond of exam- ining such objects may spend days of sight- seeing without any danger of taking in every- thing of historical interest. And other sections of this great city are adorned with other col- lections of art and industry ; and the bridges GLIMPSES INTO NOTABLE CITIES, I03 and parks and hospitals, and the great uni- versity, with its three hundred and fifty pro- fessors and six thousand students, are all to be mentioned in terms of commendation. The outlying region all about Vienna in- vites one to a protracted stay. What delight- ful excursions one can make to neighboring battle-fields; and the garden of Schonbrunn; and the villas of Hietzing; and the park of Modling; and the picturesque scenery of Briihl; and the broad, glorious park of lyaxenburg; and the springs of Baden; and those paradises for pedestrians, the forest-paths of Kahlenberg and lycopoldsberg ! And there are Kloster- neuburg and Dornbach and Neu-Waldegg, and the many possible excursions by boat upon the Danube, that the very mention of them makes one yearn to settle down in Vienna, and, in spite of all the despotic memories of the past, spend many months in exploration and revelry of sight-seeing among her imperishable monu- ments of both natural and artificial splendor. Or^apto VII. CONSTANTINOPLE AND THE GOLDEN HORN. Y reader will grow weary if I continue right on with monotonous descriptions of German cities and their treasures of art. Before we visit any others of the same general character, let us take a flying visit into the Orient, and look upon another civilization. We shall find in southeastern Europe — in Turkey and in Greece — a very different kind of sights and scenes. And Vienna is a very good point of departure. Here we can take the Oriental Express, and proceed southeast- erly through ever-changing scenery of rock and river and hill and valley. We were for- tunate in having this new railroad all finished and in good running order some two or three months before we wanted to use it. It would have been delightful, no doubt, to have gone down the Danube by boat in the old-fashioned way, but we were satisfied to accept this new and more comfortable mode of locomotion. Ah, what anticipations filled my soul as I 104 n CONSTANTINOPLE. 105 found myself and traveling companions in one snug compartment, starting off for a visit to the great city of the Golden Horn ! Can it be possible, said I, that a ride of forty-three hours will bring us to the Sublime Porte? Away we speed along the banks of the Danube, through Austria, through Hungary, through Servia, through Western Bulgaria, through Roumelia, into the lands of the unspeakable Turk. The Balkan Mountains tower up, snow- crowned, in the distance. We cross many a field traversed by the armies of the Russo- Turkish War. Flocks of cattle and sheep and goats are seen on hillside and valley; numer- ous cranes, of peculiar color, stalk quietly through the marshes a hundred yards from the train. Wooden plows, with four, six, and eight yoke of cattle, are slowly turning up the soil of many a field. We halt a while at Phil- ippopoli, the ancient capital of Thrace, founded by Philip of Macedon, and still containing numerous fragments of antiquity. We pass through Sofia, the present capital of Bulgaria, where a great crowd of people gather about the train. We counted twenty different cos- tumes, in living exhibition, at one time and place. We passed through Nissa, where Con- Io6 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. stantine was born. We paused awhile at Adri- anople, and had a view of the mosque of Sultan Selim, built of stone brought from Cyprus, having a dome higher than that of St. Sophia at Constantinople, and four graceful minarets one hundred and forty feet in height. This city was the Turkish capital in Kurope from 1360 until 1453, when Constantinople became the possession of the Moslem conquerors. At length the Sea of Marmora breaks upon our view, and, like Xenophon's retreating ten thousand, we exclaim: ''The sea! the sea!" Then, in the distance, we obtain our first glimpse of the Asiatic coast; and in a few minutes more the walls of Constantinople heave in view, and the seven towers, and the minarets of many a mosque; and then the Golden Horn, and the motley crowd, and — the custom-house ! But honest and pious pilgrims, who do not divorce religion from morality, need have no fear even of a Turkish custom- house. One of Cook's guides, whose tickets we held, promptly met us at the train, and took on him the burden of all our petty cares, and in half an hour we were comfortably housed in the Hotel Royal. The darkness of night had now begun to gather over the Bos- CONSTANTINOPLE. 1 07 phorus and the Golden Horn, and, after two days and two nights on the cars, we had no desire to encounter the outer darkness of this strange city, where, as our ears assured us, there was howling of dogs and gnashing of teeth. I preferred a spell of introspection. So, with ^imagination impressed with many beautiful scenes, I retired early to vSleep, ''And sank in blissful dreams away." But though m}^ first repose in that world-re- nowned city was like sinking away in blissful dreams, my first awaking there was equally entrancing. I sought first of all to obtain the most beautiful views, and studiously avoided contact with what I knew would be repulsive. But the thoughts which were uppermost, and which kept continually forcing themselves upon me, were the manifold matters of historic in- terest. As I walked over the ancient town, I kept saying to myself. This is the site of an- cient Byzantium, founded more than twenty- five centuries ago. Hither, from Rome, Con- stantine transferred the seat of empire. Here Chrysostom, the bold patriarch of the golden mouth, proclaimed the truth of God, and, like another John Baptist, offended the beautiful Io8 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. but dissolute Queen Eudoxia. Here Justinian erected the magnificent St. Sophia, which re- mains to this day a wonder of the Eastern world. Greeks, Macedonians, Romans, Arabi- ans, Crusaders, Russians, Turks, and many others, fought and fell about these walls. Tourists have usually gone into raptures over the first impression which Constantinople makes upon one approaching it by water. But a view from one of the high towers, or from several of the neighboring hill-tops, is equally inspiring. The most impressive of all is the panorama of city and waters and hills and valleys seen from Boulgourloo, a lofty eminence on the Asiatic shore, where, it is said, some of the old emperors had their hunting-palaces. Here, at one sweep, the eye takes in all parts of the great city, together with the Bosphorus, and the Golden Horn, and the Sea of Mar- mora, and numerous mountains and valleys of old Bithynia. Our first day in Constantinople was a Sun- day, and as we knew not the place of any Christian worship, we turned devout Mussul- mans, and went to the famous St. Sophia. We entered with feelings of awe, mingled with a sense of sadness that this ancient church, once CONSTANTINOPLE. 109 dedicated to Divine Wisdom, should have be- come the sanctuary of a false religion. But many temples of other religions contributed their riches that this might rise into being; and one knows not whether to admire more the wonderful symmetry and proportions of the whole interior, or the bewildering wealth of many-colored marbles and elaborate mo- saics, and columns and arches and costly stones. There are white marbles and black marbles, red marbles and green, and many a single huge block or slab in which several of these colors appear most marvelously side by side as so man}^ natural veins. Here are eight green columns said to have come from the Ephesian Temple of Diana, and another eight of por- phyry from the great Temple of the Sun at Baalbec. We passed over to the mosque and tomb of Suleiman the Magnificent, a masterpiece of Saracenic architecture, but a manifest imita- tion of St. Sophia. Here, too, are many-colored marbles, and beautiful arches and columns; and while we gazed in silent wonder on the awe-inspiring scene, numerous Moslem wor- shipers were repeating their prayers, and going through their Pharisaic forms of devotion all no RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. about us. Many times during the day one hears from the minarets the solemn, curious, almost weird call to pra3^er. We were not content to pass a Sunday among the pious Mohammedans without look- ing in upon the worship both of the dancing and the howling dervishes. These all com- mence their service with the usual Moham- medan forms of prayer, after which the dancing dervishes proceed to whirl themselves in a most fantastic way, closing their eyes, lifting their hands, and revolving like a top, until one's head, not used to the sight, swims merely in looking on. The howling dervishes would be a fair match for the most boisterous pray- ing-bands that were ever heard at American Methodist camp-meetings, but their howling is carried on according to well-regulated tones of voice and movements of body. Of course we visited the Bible-house, and the office of the American legation, and Ro- bert College; for these all made us feel very much at home. But the great sights here are, besides what have been mentioned above, a sail by caique up the Golden Horn to the ''sweet waters of Europe," and by steamer up and down the Bosphorus; a visit to the Castle CONSTANTINOPLE. 1 1 1 of the Seven Towers, and a ride on horseback around the ancient walls; the museum of an- tiquities, rich in relics of the past; the Armory and the Treasury, and several rooms of the Old Seraglio; the Hippodrome, with its old obelisk from Heliopolis in Egypt, and its ser- pent column, brought here from Delphi by Constantine — doubtless the same which bore the golden tripod, and, according to Herod- otus, was set up at Delphi to commemorate the victory over the Persians at the battle of Plataea. Near the Hippodrome is the museum of the ancient costumes of the Janissaries, and Constantine's Cistern of the thousand-and-one pillars, and the ''Burned Column," and the Mosque of the Sacred Doves. To this last- named mosque, they say, come such as have had a fearful dream, and after throwing grain to the doves herein they need have no more care about their dream. Not the least interesting sights of Constan- tinople are the cosmopolitan crowds that may ever be seen on the bridge that crosses the Golden Horn. Some eighty thousand human beings are said to traverse this bridge daily, and their various costumes in most cases show their race and nationality. You see the Turk- 112 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, ish ofl&cial in his carriage of state; the Mos- lem pilgrim, on his way perhaps to Mecca; the gloomy dervish in his long robe and high felt hat; the stately Russian ; the Greek priest; the wild-looking Tartar; the brown Egyptian; the gaudily-dressed Circassian ; the portly Albanian in his white petticoat; and the turbaned Jew, ready there as anywhere to make a bargain. You meet all sorts of vehicles and beasts of burden; men on foot, and on horseback, and in Sedan chairs; groups of youngsters, ready for service or for play; women veiled and women unveiled. And so the crowd jostles and moves to and fro from earliest dawn until late in the evening. One might write a long chapter about the bazaars of Constantinople, which run, like so many narrow streets, under covered archways, and give one the impression that he is wind- ing through an underground labyrinth. Here sit, the livelong day, sellers of all sorts of curi- ous fabrics, and the foreign traveler is beset at every turn with enthusiastic salesmen, who seem positive that he can not aflFord to pass without some purchase from their ample stores. One might also write a chapter about the sixty thousand dogs of Constantinople; for CONSTANTINOPLE. 1 1 3 these appear in every street, and form distinct communities, so that if one dog strays beyond his proper street or district, a whole pack of his kind pounce upon him like a squad of police, and speedily force him back to his own proper domain. To such persons as do not sleep well, the nights are made hideous by the incessant barking and snarling of the dogs, which appear to sleep on the sidewalks most of the day, and prowl about at night. ''Outer darkness" and ''gnashing of teeth" are pecul- iarly significant expressions in such an Ori- ental town. It was our fortune and misfortune to be in Constantinople in the time of Ramazan, the Mohammedan Lent. During this month — which is lunar, and so varies much in different years — every strict Moslem devoutly abstains from food and drink, and also from tobacco and snuff, from sunrise until sunset. They are apt, however, to gorge themselves sufficiently at night to make up for the day. In the even- ing the mosques are illuminated, and special services observed therein. We witnessed one of these on a Friday evening from the gallery of St. Sophia. In the morning of the same day, which is the Mohammedan Sabbath, we 8 114 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. went with the multitude to see the sultan go to prayers. By the courtesy of the secretary of the American legation, we obtained admis- sion to a kiosk adjoining the palace, and so for the time were the guests of his Imperial Majesty. Some time before the hour at which he was wont to enter the mosque, a large body of soldiers lined the streets about the palace, and filled up all the open spaces by the mosque. There were all varieties of dress and uniform, and the marching and countermarching pre- sented a scene peculiarly interesting and novel in the way of a dress parade. At length the call to prayer sounded from the lofty minaret, and a splendid carriage, drawn by four noble steeds, carried from the ''Sublime Porte" of the royal residence the sultan and two of his chief ministers to the door of the neighboring sanctuary. As the carriage drew near, a poor man rushed forward with a petition to present in person to his king, but he was violently seized and hurried off by a number of guards. The sultan is a middle-aged, pale, sad-looking man, and withal a fitting impersonation of ''the sick man of the East." When he had finished his prayers within the mosque, another carriage, with a span of magnificent white CONSTANTINOPLE, 1 1 5 horses, was waiting for him at the door, and with an elastic step he entered it alone, and, taking the reins in his own hands, he drove back to the palace, and disappeared within. As I sat at the window of the kiosk, and looked down on the mass of soldiers and others who took such pains merely to see a monarch when he went to pray, the great dome of St. Sophia rose up to my view across the harbor, and formed a striking picture on the horizon. The question came to me : Is this triumph of a false religion in the city of Constantine a judgment on the Church of Jesus Christ for too much union with the State, and a going after the pomp and influence of the world? The old Church ran after Caesar, and fell down to do him honor. Now a polygamist and pit- iable tyrant offers his Pharisaic forms of prayer in the midst of a superstitious people, most of whom hate the very name of Christian. Only a pure Christianity, which inculcates holiness of heart and life, can secure to this city of beautiful landscapes a realization of its glorious possibilities. The thoughtful traveler often queries within himself what will be the future of this great city. It now seems like a marvelous mosaic Il6 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. of nations, languages, religions, deformities, ruins, beauties, and abominations. How shall this city and metropolis of untold possibilities arise? Here some half-dozen great Councils of the ancient Church were held, and their utterances have gone into the unfolding thought of historical theology. But what great Coun- cil shall formulate the ideas and forces which shall make the fairest spot of united land and waters flourish like a city and garden of God? My second Sunday at Constantinople was spent at Robert College, the guest of Dr. I^ong. The memory of that delightful day will linger with me while life and being last. My venera- ble host, now vice-president of the college and professor of Natural Science, came out here more than thirty years ago as a missionary to Bulgaria. Fresh and vigorous still, he is full of good works, an accomplished scholar and ar- chaeologist, honored and beloved by Christian, Jew, and Moslem. The college is located at the most beautiful and interesting point on the Bosphorus, the spot where Darius the Persian sat and watched his army cross on the bridge of boats from Asia into Europe. Since this in- stitution was founded, in 1863, some fourteen hundred different students, representing many CONSTANTINOPLE. 1 1 ^ different nations, languages, and religions, have here received instruction, and most of them are at this day occupying positions of influence and responsibility in various parts of the country. Robert College is a great light of Europe and of Asia, and a monumental exhibition of what blessings wisely-consecrated wealth may per- ennially scatter over nations. Near the grounds of Robert College, and overlooking the Bosphorus, rise the massive walls and towers of the ''Castle of Europe," the famous Roumeli Hissar. It covers several acres, and after more than four centuries re- mains in good preservation, a monument of the daring enterprise of Mahomet II, the Mos- lem conqueror of Constantinople. A huge granite cannon-ball is builded into the outer face of the southern tower, a symbol of the invader's purpose against the capital of the Grecian emperor; for the building of this for- tress was the beginning of the siege of Con- stantinople. Many a Christian church in the adjacent regions was demolished to furnish material for this hastily-built structure, and its exterior displays here and there the fragments of beautiful marbles which were cast indis- criminately, along with rude stones and rub- Il8 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. bish, into walls which are more than twenty feet thick, and towers thirty feet in diameter. When this old castle comes to be demolished, what precious relics of antiquity may be found buried in its walls ! Directly opposite this fortress, on the Asiatic shore, stands the '' Cas- tle of Asia," a gloomy-looking pile, and beyond it, eastward, stretches the beautiful '' Valley of the Heavenly Rest," pronounced by some writers the most picturesque landscape in the Orient. We tarried nine days in Constantinople, and visited its most interesting places many times. We sailed up and down the Bosphorus, and up and down the Golden Horn. One bright sun- shiny day we made a trip to Scutari, on the Asiatic shore. We visited the site of ancient Chalcedon, where once a famous Ecumenical Council condemned the Nestorian and Eutych- ian heresies. Near this place we walked through the English cemetery, where some eight thousand soldiers who died in the Crimean War are buried. Here is that famous hospital where Florence Nightingale ministered so gently to the sick and dying, and where she sometimes stood for twenty consecutive hours giving di- rections to the patient nurses, and cheering the CONSTANTINOPLE, 1 1 9 sufferers with her inspiring voice and smile. We climbed to the top of the mountain Boul- gourloo, and looked northward and eastward and southward and westward on one of the most wonderful panoramas of natural landscape in the world. Here, too, is a famous spring of excellent water, over which one of the sultans has builded a cupola. Here the emperors had a palace, which served as a rendezvous for their hunting excursions among the hills and valleys of Asia. From this summit one obtains the finest view of Constantinople and its suburbs. Half way down this mountain, in the out- skirts of Scutari, is a home for the instruction of young women. It is a fitting complement to Robert College, and it is to be hoped that it may accomplish for the women of this land what the older institution is doing for the men. It is gratifying to the American traveler to think that both these hopeful institutions are products of American beneficence and enter- prise. With the elevation of the w^omanhood of the East, and the full recognition of her moral and religous force in the civilization of the world, these downtrodden peoples will rise to their natural rights of life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness. ^:) QTfjapfBr VIII. A JOURNEY INTO GREECE. From ConstantinopIvK to Athens. HE shadows of evening were gathering ^^ over land and sea when we sailed out ^ of the Bosphorus into the Sea of Mar- mora. The beautiful harbor, the mosque- crowned hills, the ancient walls and towers, gradually faded from our view; but the mem- ory of the wonderful city remains, and proba- bly ever will remain with us, a thing of inef- faceable interest. Farewell, great city of the Golden Horn ! God-speed the day of thy re- demption from the miserable Turk ! At four o'clock next morning I was on deck to note each object in the Dardanelles. The mountainous coast looks barren enough, and rarely can one see a sign of human habitation. We passed the ancient Lampsacus, and about seven o'clock anchored at the narrowest part, where Xerxes crossed with his mighty army on J20 A JOURNEY INTO GREECE, 121 his way to Greece, and where afterward Alex- ander's host passed over to fight the battle of the Granicus, and to march eastward and con- quer the world. We hired a little boat, and went on shore to look at the fortifications and tread for another hour the soil of Asia. About ten o'clock we saw to the left the island of Tene- dos and the neighboring plain of Troy. I con- fess to have felt no little emotion as I gazed on the region so celebrated in Grecian poetry and myth. Far to the east, some thirty miles away, we could see, by means of a good field- glass, the snowy summit of Mount Ida, and nearer by the mounds of Hissarlik, the sup- posed site of Troy, the place of Schliemann's excavations. Fain would I have landed here, and traversed that classic plain, and have passed on even to Alexandria Troas, where Paul had his vision of the man of Mace- donia. Turning now to the west, we were soon coasting along the southern shore of Imbros, which stood out magnificently against the northern sky. Then Lemnos rose up before us, that famed ^gean Isle which- the Argo- nauts found peopled with women who had slain their husbands ! Here, too, according to 122 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, ancient legend, Vulcan fell when thrust out of the heavens — " From morn To noon he fell, from noon to dewy eve." According to Pliny, this island had a won- derful labyrinth, with a hundred and forty columns ; but no modern explorer of sufl&cient tact and patience has yet arisen to discover any trace of this, or of other antiquities of this once notorious island. As our steamer moved on w^estward, and left the rugged Imbros behind, and drew nearer to the Isle of Lemnos, the lofty peaks of Samothrace became visible in the north, — that Samothrace to which Paul came with a straight course, after he had loosed from Troas, on his way to Macedonia. From the heights of this island, it is fabled, Neptune was wont to watch the progress of the battle on the plains of Troy. Still further away, we could see in the blue distance the island of Thasos, the home of the poet Archilochus, who called his sea-washed land "an ass's backbone, cov- ered with wild wood." But more imposing than any other object seen over these ^gean waters is Mount Athos, rising like a marble pyramid out of the sea. A JOURNEY INTO GREECE, 123 Five or more hours it was visible from our steamer on the horizon. This sacred moun- tain of the Greeks is now famous for its mon- asteries, some of which we could see with our glasses as we sailed along. Eight thousand monks are said to inhabit this mountain, and pay into the treasury of the Turkish Govern- ment about four thousand pounds a year. So rigid is the ascetic discipline and care that no female, not even of the animal kind, is per- mitted to enter the peninsula on which this mountain stands. And yet the twenty monas- tic establishments of this mountain are all dedicated to the holy Virgin ! What a luxury it would have been for me, with competent guides and helpers, to have visited the neg- lected libraries of these old monasteries ! In the eleventh and twelfth centuries, Mount Athos was the principal seat of Greek learning, and manuscripts of priceless value may yet be found in the old monasteries. Next morning found us anchored in the Bay of Salonica, and off on the northern hill- side, like a vision of beauty, lay Thessalonica, whither Paul came from Philippi, and entered a Jewish synagogue, and three Sabbaths rea- soned with them out of the Scriptures, and 124 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. showed that Jesus was the Christ. The gen- eral appearance of this city is doubtless about as it was in the apostle's day. The old Eg- natian Way still runs through the town from east to west. The most notable ruin is the triumphal arch of Constantine, erected to cel- ebrate his victory over Licinius. It was once covered with marble slabs, only a portion of which still remain, exhibiting in bold relief the various objects of a triumphal march. The oldest church is probably that known as St. George's, supposed to date from the time of Constantine. In front of it is a very ancient pulpit, sculptured out of white marble, and notable for eight bas-reliefs, representing the visit and worship of the Magi. It is called by the Turkish guides the pulpit of St. Paul. Not far away is the Church of St. Sophia, a relatively small copy of that in Con- stantinople, and also dating from the time of Justinian. Both these churches have been con- verted into Moslem mosques, and their beau- tiful mosaics are plastered over by the hea- thenish, superstitious Turks. The city is full of interest, as every well-read Christian is aware. Its population is 100,000, of whom about 60,000 are Jews, descendants of those A JOURNEY INTO GREECE. 12 S who were driven here by Spanish persecution in the fifteenth century. There are some thirty synagogues, as many Mohammedan mosques, and eight Christian churches. We looked in vain for the house of Jason, but our experi- ence among the Jews convinced us that there were plenty of ''lewd fellows of the baser sort" still in town, who could easily make it unpleasant for all and any whom they might envy or dislike. The Roman arch, known as the Vardar Gate, which so long stood at the western end of the Via Egnatia, has been destroyed by the ignorant and unappreciative workmen, who used its materials for repairing the walls of the city. But an inscription which it bore, con- taining the word politarch, used in Acts xvii, 6, 8, for ruler of the city, is now preserved in the British Museum. We spent a whole day in and about Thes- salonica, while our steamer took in a cargo of grain and wool for Genoa. It was evening when we sailed out of the beautiful harbor, and the illuminated city, with citadel and mosque and minaret and tower, gradually dis- appeared in the growing darkness. Next day 126 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. we sailed among the rocky Sporades, and along the eastern shore of Euboea, with its snow- capped peaks ; and then we passed among the Cyclades, and at length rounded Sunium Point, crowned with the ruined Temple of Minerva. Then beautiful ^gina hove into sight, and Salamis, and the Piraeus, and, behold, we were on the classic shores of Greece. Athens. It had been a dream of my early years that I might some day visit the historic valleys and hills of Greece. On Friday morning, May lo, 1889, that dream became a reality, and it was with no little emotion of the subdued and quiet kind that I rode up by carriage from the Piraeus to Athens. A few traces of the famous '*Long Walls" were pointed out to us as we passed. The first view of the Acropolis and the ruined Parthenon was very disappoint- ing. The heat, the vast amount of dust, and the barren aspect of all the hills around, com- bined to make our first impressions of the ''Eye of Greece" anything but inspiring. We had read of this wonderful land, and had been led to imagine that every sight was beauty, and A JOURNEY INTO GREECE. 1 27 every breath a balm; but most of our first sights were abominable, and almost every smell was a stench. But these disagreeable first impressions soon passed away amid the absorbing interest awak- ened by an examination of antiquities. My first walk, completed before I had been five hours in Athens, afforded me a hasty but most satisfactory view of the old Stadion, the Arch of Hadrian, the fifteen columns of the Temple of Olympian Jupiter, the monument of Lysicrates, the Theater of Bacchus, and that of Herod Atticus, the Propylaeum of the Acropolis, Mars' Hill, the Pnyx, the monument of Philo- pappus, the prison of Socrates, and the Temple of Theseus. The afternoon of the same day was given to a ride to Eleusis, and an exam- ination of the wonderful ruins of the ''Tem- ple of the Mysteries." The next day we made an excursion, in the morning, to the Bay of Salamis, and in the afternoon began a careful examination of the ruins of the Acropolis. These were revisited again and again, for the space of seven days, until all became as fa- miliar to us as one's home. The center and crown of all the glories of the ancient city was the Acropolis, itself a 128 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. world of wonders. It is accessible only from the western side, and rises about two hundred feet above the surrounding plain. The first object of remarkable character to arrest one's attention as he climbs the steep ascent is the magnificent gateway known as the Propylseum. It is a marble wall with five huge doors, sur. rounded with lofty Doric columns, and every way adapted to impress on those who enter a sense of reverence and awe. Passing through this huge gatewa}^, we see before us a sloping rocky surface, strewn thick with broken col- umns and shafts, and capitals and friezes, many of them exhibiting in their ruin a beauty and perfection of finish which it is impossible to describe. The great temple to which all travelers give their chief attention is, of course, the Parthenon. In ancient times one of the Seven Wonders of the world, it is now a sad monument of wreck and ruin. Not a stone, not even a single capital, or even one small or- nament of the once beautiful frieze, remains perfect. In 1687 the Venetians captured Athens, and the Turks intrenched themselves in the Parthenon. From a neighboring hill the Venetians kept up a continual cannonade upon A JOURNEY INTO GREECE. 1 29 this peerless temple, shattering column and frieze and roof, until they fired the powder- magazine within, and blew the larger portion of the building into fragments. Perhaps one- half of the columns, in whole or in part, remain standing; the eastern and western ends are sufiiciently preserved to afford a general idea of what the whole must have been in perfec- tion. But, even thus ruined, the Parthenon is wonderfully impressive still. I saw it in the early morning, at midday, at sunset, and by moonlight, and its grandeur and beauty, and the perfection of its proportions, seemed more and more wonderful with each visit. What must it have been in the days of its glory, when these white Pentelic marbles glittered in the freshness of their first chiseling, and every niche and corner was occupied by the master works of Phidias, and his fellow artists — statues over which, Plutarch says, the freshness of youth hovered as if there dwelt a mighty soul within them ! Next to the Parthenon, the most interesting ruin on the Acropolis is that of the Temple of Erechtheus. According to Grecian legend, it occupies the spot on which Athena and Posei- 130 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. don fought for the possession of Athens. The most noticeable part of the present ruin is a portico on the south side, the roof of which is supported, not by pillars, but by the figures of six maidens, somewhat larger than life-size, ad- mirably graceful in their attitudes, and seem- ing to support with the most perfect ease and composure the massive marble-work above. But, alas! these beautiful figures, whose folding draperies seem almost ^instinct with life, have every one been broken and marred by the hand of the destroyer. On the south side of the Acropolis are the remains of the Theater of Bacchus, in which the great dramas of ^schylus, Euripides, Sopho- cles, and Aristophanes were once rehearsed be- fore delighted thousands. Many of the seats are hewn from the solid rock, and the whole semicircular inclosure was adequate to hold thirty thousand spectators. The seats remain tolerably perfect to this day, and the front row consists of chairs of Pentelic marble. Passing westward from this impressive ruin, we soon reach the inclosed Theater of Herod Atticus, a monument of the Roman dominion of Athens. Still further west, a short walk brings us to the hill and platform of the Pnyx, the bema of the A JO URNE Y INTO GREECE. 1 3 1 « Attic orators, where the burning eloquence of Demosthenes "Wielded at will the fierce democracy, Shook th' arsenal, and fulniined over Greece To Macedon and Artaxerxes' throne." The terrace on the hillside, where the people are supposed to have stood to listen, is over three hundred feet long and over two hundred wide. The platform on which the speakers stood is about thirty feet long, and elevated about thirty inches above the ground. Back of this, a huge block of rock, twelve feet across the front, rises to the height of seven or eight feet above the platform, and was probably oc- cupied of old by the president of the assembly. But it was not the platform of the old Athe- nian orators that chiefly interested me in the capital of Greece. The most sacred spot to the Christian traveler is the Areopagus, in the midst of which the Apostle Paul delivered his message more than eighteen centuries ago. I walked again and again over all parts of this rocky height. A flight of vSteps hewn from the rock, thirteen of which are still in good preser- vation, leads up to the highest point; but there are several other ways of ascending, and I 132 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. found another stairway on the opposite side of the hill, also cut in the rock, by which the apostle is as likely to have gone up as by any other. To this historic hill a little company of us walked one quiet Sunday afternoon, and there, in the midst of the broad, commanding eminence, I read and expounded the sermon of the great apostle. Though read and studied a hundred times before, it seemed to me that I had never hitherto felt its admirable fitness for place and people so thoroughly. The graceful introduction and happy tact by which he took his text from one of their nu- merous altars are inimitable. Mars' Hill is des- olate and broken, the Parthenon is in ruins, the altars and images of Greek idolatry have perished, but Paul's sermon to the men of Athens lives, and is mightier in the world to- day than all the orations and philosophies of the Hellenic race. In Attica. One of our earliest excursions out of Athens was a carriage-ride to the ruins of the great ''Temple of the M^^steries" at Eleusis. The distance is about twelve miles, and the road is specially interesting in that it follows in the A JOURNEY INTO GREECE. 133 main the ancient ''Sacred Way," along which the torchlight processions used to march from Athens in honor of the Eleusinian mysteries. This ancient road is said to have been lined all the way with tombstones, traces of which — as well as of the ancient road where it was cut through the rocks — are still visible. In the midst of a mountain glen we passed the Con- vent of Daphni, a structure of the Middle Ages, built in part of the marble remains of an ancient temple of Apollo which occupied the spot. The chapel, which we were per- mitted to enter, contains some Byzantine mo- saics and two old sarcophagi. The court contains numerous fragments of old marble columns, and the rocks in the neighborhood of the convent exhibited many niches which seem to have been designed for votive of- ferings. At length we reach Eleusis, the seat of the once famous temple and worship of the earth- goddess Demeter, the giver of seed-corn to mortals. Since the year 1882 the Greek Archae- ological Society have here excavated from the rubbish of centuries the broken ruins of the ancient temple. Here they now lie in in- discriminate confusion, covering some four or 134 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, five acres with marble slabs and Doric columns, beautiful capitals and friezes and pedestals, broken images of gods and goddesses, any one of which would be considered a great treasure for an archaeological museum in America. One can still, with some difficulty, trace the plan of the ancient temple, with its imposing colonnades and gatewa5^s and porticoes and stairways. Another memorable excursion was to the battle-field of Marathon. Sending on a relay of horses the day before, we were able to make this journe}' in one day, and spend several hours on the historic plain of Athenian valor. After a ride of some tw^o hours, we crossed the southern spur of Mount Pentelicon, and came in sight of the blue sea and the Island of Eubcea beyond. Another two hours and the Plain of Marathon stretched away before us, and in its midst a conspicuous mound, which we at once recognized as that which the Athenians raised over the heroes who fell in battle with the Persians here. This mound rises about thirty feet above the level of the field, and has been well trodden by the feet of the numerous pil- grims who have come hither from many lands to do honor to the memory of old Athenian A JOURNEY INTO GREECE, 1 35 patriotism. Sitting down on the top of the hillock, I read Herodotus's vivid description of the battle, written within half a century after the event; and imagination easily pictured again the rushing Greeks, the astonished Per- sians, the flight to the ships, and the shouts of triumph which broke from the enthusiastic victors. Our visit to the scene of the Battle of Sal- amis was no less interesting than that to Marathon. We took a small sailing-boat from the Piraeus, and passed over the same space of waters which the Persian fleet must have crossed as they pushed into the Straits of Sal- amis, confident of victory. That was a charm- ing sail, the waters marvelously blue, the Attic shore rough and rocky, with Mt. JBgaleos towering overhead, and the Island of Salamis directly opposite. We passed the little Island of Psyttalea, on which Xerxes stationed six hundred picked men to cut off any attempt of the Grecians to escape, and came into the nar- row place where the final and decisive conflict of the day was fought. We sailed up to the Attic shore, and climbed the high hill on which Xerxes is said to have occupied a glittering throne, and watched the progress of the battle, 136 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. and witnessed the utter defeat of his own forces. From this elevation one commands a most ad- mirable view of ba3^s and straits and islands associated with the famous battle. Among my early recollections was a picture of the Battle of Salamis. On a lofty throne sat the Persian monarch, with one arm ex- tended above him, and gnashing his teeth in rage as he saw the Grecian vessels rapidly de- stroying his own. I little thought at that time that it would be my privilege to stand on the hill which commands so fine a view of the waters where that decisive conflict occurred. The rough hillsides, the calm waters below, the peculiar haze which ever seems to hang over the isles and mountains of Greece, com- bined to make that scene a vision of beauty that can never fade from my memory. In thk PE1.OPONNKSUS. A railway ride of a little less than four hours from Athens brought us to Corinth. On the way we passed through Megara, a tbwn of over five thousand inhabitants. Between Me- gara and Corinth the railway runs along the narrow pavSS of the Scironian Cliffs, famous in ancient legend as the haunt of the robber Sci- A JOURNEY INTO GREECE. 1 37 ron, who kicked travelers over the precipices until he himself was kicked off by Theseus. The views along this narrow way are both grand and beautiful. As we approach Corinth we cross the canal, now nearly completed, which is designed to connect the Saronic and Corinthian Gulfs. The canal is one hundred feet wide and nearly four miles long, and the iron railroad bridge over it is two hundred and thirty feet above the water. The modern village of Corinth is said to have a population of about eight thousand. The ancient city, so famous in Grecian and apostolic history, was more than three miles distant, at the foot of the bold mountain known as Acro-Corinth. A feeling of solemn sadness comes over the traveler, interested in the for- mer importance of this great city, to find no trace of it remaining except seven columns of an ancient temple and some portions of their entablature. That splendid city of luxury and sensuality, in which Paul preached and founded one of his most important Churches, to which also he directed two of his immortal epistles, has utterly perished from the face of the ground. A few miserable houses have been builded near the columns of the ancient tern- 138 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. pie, and are the homes of shepherds who lead their flocks over desolate fields once occupied by the most celebrated commercial city of Greece. A climb of an hour and a half, part of the way on horseback and part on foot, brought us to the summit of Acro-Corinth. It is now sur- rounded by a well-preserved medieval wall, in- side of which are the ruins of hundreds of small houses once occupied by the Turks. The view which opens on the eye, as we at- tain the summit of the mountain, is charming beyond description. Directly in front is the site of the ancient city, marked by the ruined temple mentioned above. On the neighboring shore we see the ancient port of Lechaeum, and the narrow isthmus beyond, and the old port of Cenchrese at the foot of the line of hills, where St. Paul had his beard shorn be- cause of his vow, and where he embarked for Ephesus. Beyond the blue waters of the Cor- inthian Gulf, on the north, we see the impos- ing summits of Helicon and Parnassus, the latter wrapped in a mantle of snow. To the west and south the mountains and valleys of the Peloponnesus stretch away in grandeur and beauty. In descending we did not fail to A JOURNEY INTO GREECE, 1 39 visit the far-famed Pierian Spring, which is now covered by a Roman arch, and can be reached only by a wooden stairway some ten feet below the surface of the ground. The water is clear and cold, and fills a rocky basin six or seven feet broad and perhaps as many in depth. This is the spring which, according to one old legend, burst forth from the moun- tain at a stroke of the hoof of Pegasus. But I must not linger on Acro-Corinth if I attempt to mention our visit to Nauplia, Tiryns, Argos, and Mycenae. The railroads of Greece now make it easy to visit numerous interesting places which travelers of a few years ago felt obliged to omit because difficult of access. On the way from Corinth to Nauplia we pass through Nemea, where still remain standing three columns of the Temple of Jupiter, which was once the national sanctuary of all the Peloponnesian Greeks. We stopped over night at Nauplia, because we were told the best hotels were there ; but the best we could find were wretched. We were up and out before five o'clock in the morning, and off to see the wall-girt Tiryns. Here we found huge walls of unhewn stone, and could trace the broken outlines of the tower and gateway and halls I40 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, and courts of a most ancient Grecian palace of the prehistoric time. There is a weird grandeur about these old Cyclopean ruins, and one in looking on them feels that he is brought face to face with the old Homeric age. A carriage-ride of less than one hour took us from Tiryns to the ancient city of Argos, which Homer characterized as very thirsty, and given to the rearing of horses. Its im- mense rock-hewn theater is the most notable object of antiquarian interest. The tiers of seats, with their aisles and corridors, are well preserved, and were capable of accommodating twenty thousand spectators. A further ride of two hours brought us to the wonderful ruins of Mycenae, the city of Agamemnon, son of Atreus. Here we were shown the ''treasury of Atreus," the supposed tomb of Agamemnon, a large underground vault in the shape of a beehive, fifty feet in diameter and as many in height. We passed into other tombs of similar form and size, and then went up to the Acropolis through the '' Gate of the lyions," so called from being sur- mounted by a huge stone slab on which two lions have been sculptured in relief, and stand on their hind-legs with their fore-paws resting A JO URNE Y INTO GREECE. 1 4 1 on the pedestal of a column. Inside the gate we saw the curious circles and halls and tombs excavated by Dr. Schliemann, in several of which were found human bones and large quantities of gold and costly ornaments. Let the interested student of Greek antiquities read Schliemann's books on Mycenae and Tiryns, and learn what stores of treasure and curious relics of the past were found among these ruins. Greece is a land of ruins, but she is steadily rising to a new life. Under a liberal and intelligent administration we may hope to see her rise again to a rank worthy of her ancient glory. Or^apiBr IX. RAMBLES IN SICILY. ^E came from Greece to Sicily in an Ital- ian steamboat — a journey of two days and nights upon the Mediterranean deep. As we approaced Catania, on the eastern coast of the- island, the huge outlines of Mount Etna opened upon our eyes, towering up among the clouds, smoking at the top, and covered in all the upper parts with a mantle of snow. In numerous places smaller mountains rise on its slopes, like rounded snowbanks, and one can trace the various fitful paths of lava-streams which from time immemorial have poured their burning tides down to the plains below. The city of Catania is builded on a vast bed of lava, but the country around teems with most luxuriant vegetation. It would seem that when these lava-streams become broken and pulverized they furnish a soil adapted to the growth of choicest flowers and fruits. Here we passed through acres and acres of lemon- 142 I RAMBLES IN SICILY. 1 43 groves, the yellow fruit hanging in great abundance from the trees. From Catania, which in itself has few things to interest a traveler, we passed on to Messina, and looked across the narrow strait which sep- arates the island from the mainland of Italy. Over against us lay Rhegium, where St. Paul stopped a day on his journey to Rome and waited for the south-wind to blow. There is little in or about Messina that calls for notice except the charming views of land and sea and mountains. We visited the Campo Santo, be- yond the imperial gate, a large and interesting cemetery, where the custodian told us that for seven hundred and fifty francs one could buy a solid resting-place in the marble vaults, and remain undisturbed to all eternity ! Our object, however, was rather to obtain from the high terrace the enchanting look over the strait and into the regions beyond, where the glorious panorama was truly one of exquisite loveliness. We also drove out some seven miles to the light-house on Faro Point, where the strait is narrowest, and looked in vain to see any signs of the terrible Scylla and Charyb- dis which made this passage so full of dread to the ancient mariners. Here Homer tells us 144 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. that Ulysses lost six of the hardiest of his sail- ors, who were caught up like so many fish on hooks by the horrible monster, Scylla, while on the other hand the restless Charybdis sucked down the salt water and belched it forth again, so as to fill all the neighboring deep with fatal storms. The w^aters hereabout are all calm now, quelled possibly by earth- quakes, and the fabulous Scylla no longer haunts the shore. We returned along the eastern coast of Sicily, and lingered a day and night in the won- derful town of Taormina, perched on the rocks like an eagle's nest, five hundred feet above the sea. From the balconies of our hotel we looked down the precipitous cliffs, and it seemed as if we could throw a stone into the waters of the Mediterranean, which washed the dark rocks below. Above us, also, four or five hun- dred feet higher, were forts and castles and chapels, and ruins of former times. Here many a ruined wall and arch bore witness of the importance of the place in previous times; and the remains of an ancient theater, said to be capable of holding forty thousand people, confirms the belief that this fortress of the mountains was of old no mean city. The the- RAMBLES IN SICILY. 1 45 ater itself is one of the best preserved struc- tures of its kind which we had yet seen, — walls, columns, seats, orchestra, and stage still re- maining quite complete. Journeying leisurely southward, we came at length to Syracuse, a city of more historic importance than any other on the island. The modern town occupies the small peninsula, or rather island, of Ortygia, and looks out on the one side upon the broad Mediterranean, and on the other upon the beautiful harbor, where, about 413 B. C, the decisive naval battle was fought which virtually determined the issue of the Peloponnesian war. Modern Syracuse is a dirty town of over twenty-three thousand in- habitants. Its cathedral is interCvSting, espe- cially from the fact of its inclosing the remains of an ancient Doric temple, the columns and capitals of which are seen projecting on all sides from the walls. The fabulous fountain of Arethusa still occupies its ancient basin by the side of the harbor; but an earthquake long ago exposed it to the influx of the salt water, and now it is converted into an artificial pool, fed by fresh water from the reservoir of the city, and filled with a great variety of fish. In the midst of the city, as if frowning on all the 10 146 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, bustle of modern life, are the gray ruins of a very ancient temple, called the Temple of Di- ana, but its origin and history are quite un- certain. All these were of little interest as com- pared with the wonderful ruins of ancient Syr- acuse. We expected to see antiquities of great interest here, but the half had never been told us. We hastened, first of all, to find out the real facts as to the nature and size of the famous ''Ear of Dionysius," which was so constructed, as popular story has it, that the old tyrant could conceal himself in an upper chamber and hear the slightest whispers of the conver- sation within, and so learn the plots and plans of those who were imprisoned there. We found the ear to consist of a huge cave, cut in the solid rock, in the shape of the letter S, vary- ing in width from fifteen to forty feet, and running up like the interior of a steep roof, to the height of seventy or eighty feet, and contracting into a small concave surface at the top. We tested its acoustic properties in va- rious wa^^s, and ascertained that the least sound made at one end of the winding cavern could be easily heard at the other, a distance of more than two hundred feet. This cele- RAMBLES IN SICILY. 1 47 -brated cavern is in the immediate vicinity, and in fact forms a part of, the deep quarries, or latomice, whence the building-stones of the an- cient city were obtained; and in these, and others of Uke character in other parts of old Syracuse, the captives taken in war, and other prisoners, were compelled to labor as slaves. There is perhaps no sadder chapter in Grecian history than that which tells how the flower and pride of the Athenian army, when defeated and captured here, were thrust into these deep quarries to toil, and famish, and pine away and die. The rocks tower up to the height of a hundred feet, and the excavations extend over many acres, and run like interminable laby- rinths through gardens and groves which have been planted therein in modern times. But space fails me to write of half the won- ders of ruined Syracuse. The Greek theater, hewn in the solid rock, and still in tolerable preservation; the '' Street of Tombs" hard by, with niches for votive offerings and countless receptacles for the ashes of the dead; the altar of Hiero, so large that four hundred and fifty oxen could be .sacrificed on it at one time ; the catacombs, through which we wandered till it seemed that the entire ancient city rested on 1^8 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. these interminable labyrinthian halls of the dead; the old walls of Dionysius, distinctly traceable in many places, though now in ruins; the citadel of Euryalus, where Nicias estab- lished his army in the siege of Syracuse, and where we walked through acres of subterra- nean passage-ways hewn through solid rock, through which infantry and cavalry of old were wont to pass, and where side-rooms opened capable of holding an immense quantity of stores, — all these I can only mention, and must leave others equally interesting unmentioned. One could profitably tarry many weeks in Syracuse and study its remarkable antiquities. It is a wonder that they are not more visited. Thousands visit Rome and Naples and Athens and Egypt, and write volumes on volumes con- cerning what they saw in those historic places, but the wonders of Syracuse are comparatively unknown. Here are ruined theaters and am- phitheaters and catacombs and altars and tem- ples and churches, which are as wonderful as anything we saw in the lands more frequently visited by Europeans and Americans. But old Syracuse is not the only city of Sicily which possesses remarkable antiquities ; there are others in the interior of the island and near RAMBLES IN SICILY. 1 49 the coasts, where one could spend delightful days of study and research. I will give the rest of this chapter mainly to an account of Girgenti, the ancient Greek city of Akragas, but afterward named Agrigentum when it became subject to Rome. It occupies a most delightful position on the southern coast, commanding from many rocky heights a vari- ety of exquisite views, over fields and valleys, of orchards and vineyards and flowers, the blue sea in the distance gleaming in the sunlight, and adding to the entire panorama an un- speakable charm. The modern city is set upon a hill, and has a population of twenty-six thou- sand. The ancient city was much more exten- sive, being some ten miles in circumference, and spreading over several hills and valleys. Among the existing ruins are the remains of six very ancient temples, of which the best preserved is the Temple of Concord, a Doric structure of yellow sandstone, one hundred and twenty-nine feet long and fifty-five feet wide. The rocks around are perforated with tombs, and in many places they have been overturned by earthquakes, and huge blocks, twenty to fifty feet broad, have been rolled down into the valleys below. Not far from I50 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, the Temple of Concord, and on the highest point of the ridge, is the Temple of Juno Lacinia, of which only sixteen columns remain standing. The rest lie broken and in confusion around. These ruins have been cleared of the accumu- lation of rubbish, and one can walk with ease among the standing and fallen columns, and observe how time and storm and earthquake have marred the beautiful work of the ancient artificers. The most wonderful of these ruined temples is that of Jupiter, which is worthy of compar- ison with the immense temples of Egypt. Here we found broken capitals of columns, some twenty feet in diameter, with flutings large enough for a man to vStand in. Each section seemed like a huge rock, and one wonders at the skill of the ancient workmen which could fit and raise to their lofty positions these pro- digious blocks of stone. In the midst of this heap of ruins lies a gigantic figure, composed of thirteen fragments, which have been put to- gether as nearly as possible in their original position. The statue was evidently designed to support some entablature about the temple, probably a portion of the doorway. It was suggested to us that this was the mummied RAMBLES IN SICIL V, 1 5 1 form of old Jupiter himself, who had long ago ceased to rule, and had given up all care of the heaven and earth he was once wont to shake with his thunders, and was now quietly reposing amidst the ruins of his greatest tem- ple, undisturbed by the vicissitudes of time and human things. Besides the temples already named, there are those of Hercules, very much like the Par- thenon in its general plan; and of Castor and Pollux, whose beautiful pillars lie scattered in the grass and grain and flowers which grow in rich profusion all about them ; and of Escula- pius, now builded into the walls of a farm- house. These six temples stood in a row along the edge of a steep cliff which formed part of the wall of the ancient city, and must have presented a magnificent appearance from the neighboring sea. Girgenti is a most desirable spot for those who would spend a winter in a southern cli- mate. Here they could enjoy a bath of per- petual shunshine in the midst of visions of en- chanting beauty, and in the vicinity of antiqui- ties as wonderful as those of many places which have a greater fame. I will not stop to write about Palermo, the 152 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. charming Sicilian city at which our rambles in this delightful island terminated. It is to all intents a modern town, set like a jewel in the midst of a semicircle of beautiful hills. Here are splendid streets, like some in Chicago, and large squares adorned with plants and flowers; here are galleries and museums and churches and public buildings, such as one may see in the best cities of Europe. And there are drives in the neighborhood of Palermo as delightful, perhaps, as any in the world. I close my notes of Sicilian rambles with the following lines of Wordsworth, the poet of the plaintive muse, and lover of rocks and hills and valleys: "Child of the mountains, among shepherds reared, I learnt to dream of Sicily ; and lo ! A pleasant promise, wafted from her shores, Comes o'er my heart. In fancy I behold Her seas yet smiling, her once happy vales ; Nor can my tongue give utterance to a name Of note belonging to that honored isle, That doth not yield a solace to my grief." A TOUR THROUGH ITALY. Napi^ks. BEGAN my tour of Italy at Naples, that paradise of Southern Europe, and ended it ^ ^ at Venice, the city of the winged lion and the singing gondolier. From Palermo, in Sic- ily, we fetched a straight course to the lovely Bay of Naples, and landed in a driving rain, so that we failed to obtain a delightful first impression of that glorious harbor w^hich is world-renowned. But there, against the eastern sky, arose the restless Mount Vesuvius, sending out clouds of smoke and dust, and we knew that we were in the midst of a region of re- markable interest. It was early on a Sunday morning, and we repaired at once to the com- modious Hotel Vesuvius, w^here, somewhat indisposed, I remained quiet all the day. My window opened out upon the bay, and com- manded a fine view of the volcano on the op- posite shore. It was no ordinary privilege to spend a Sabbath with such a scene in constant 153 154 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, view. That burning mountain was a suggest- ive and memorable sermon, and it reminded me of another mountain which was once "al- together on smoke, because Jehovah descended upon it in fire; and the smoke thereof ascended as the smoke of a furnace, and the whole mount quaked greatly." Our hotel was but a few minutes' walk from that ancient tunnel through the volcanic rock known as the Grotto of Posilipo, through which the road runs direct out to Pozzuoli, the ancient Roman Puteoli. Near the entrance to this grotto we ascend by a rock-hewn stair- way to the traditional tomb of Virgil, whither the admirers of that Roman Homer have made their pilgrimages for centuries past to do hom- age to his memory. But the tomb is an empty chamber now, and no trace of the urn that once held the poet's ashes can be found. Even the ivy and laurel, which loving hands have often planted here, are soon destroyed by the long train of visitors, who must needs '' pluck a leaf from Virgil's tomb." One of the most delightful excursions from this place is that which takes in the lake of Agnano, and Pozzuoli, with its neighboring temple of Serapis, the Monte Nuovo, the caves A JOUR THROUGH ITALY, 155 at Cumae, the lakes of Avernus and Lucrinus, and the charming Bay of Baiae. Thi.s should be supplemented by a two or three days' tour to the islands of Nisita, Procida, and Ischia. But, ah me ! I was unable, by reason of a tem- porary illness, to accomplish these much desired excursions. But this disappointment was, perhaps, more than compensated by the visit to the Castle of St. Elmo, and the neighboring Convent and Church of St. Martino, and the glorious drive thence down the mountain west- ward by way of Fuorigrotta. The castle has little interest in itself, aside from all such cita- dels, save that its enormous walls and fosses are worthy of particular notice. It is for its commanding position, and the wonderful pan- orama of hills and valleys and bay and islands and winding coasts, and the great sea beyond, that this summit must ever hold an enviable fame. The Carthusian Convent of St. Martin is rich beyond description in frescoes and works of art. The nave of the church, the choir, and the side chapels are all so gorgeously decorated that one almost .sighs for a little relief from the excessive prodigality of art-display. The quad- rangular cloister of the convent, with its fifteen Doric columns on each side, is in keeping with 156 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. all the rest, and the outlook from the convent garden is equal to that from the castle, and per- haps even more entrancing. And, in fact, an}^- where about this region, wherever one may wish to walk or ride, the eye is greeted by vis- ions of beauty, and one might well feel that, comfortably located in any of the charming villas about Naples, he could spend a long lifetime feasting his gaze on landscapes so heavenly. Within the city the one spot which, above all others, enchains the student of antiquity and art is the National Museum. It would re- quire a large volume to catalogue merely the names of all the objects of interest. Here is probably the finest collection of bronzes in the world. Here are some of the great master- pieces of sculpture of which all the world has heard, such as the Farnese Bull and the Far- nese Hercules. Here are ancient and medi- eval inscriptions of the highest historical value, old mural paintings from Pompeii and Herculaneum, Egyptian antiquities, Etruscan monuments, and vast collections of ancient glass and pottery, and coins and gems, and gold and silver ornaments. This museum also contains a picture-gallery worth}^ of comparison A TOUR THROUGH ITALY, 1 57 with any in Europe, and a library of two hun- dred thousand volumes and four thousand manuscripts. Capri. But if I run through all Italy in one chap- ter, I must not tarry longer in Naples. One afternoon we took a small steamer, and crossed the beautiful bay to the Island of Capri. The views of towns on the coast, and the circular shore, and the neighboring islands, and Ve- suvius smoking above them all, were most en- tertaining. We resolved to spend the night upon the island, and took up lodgings in the hotel of the Blue Grotto. In the evening we ascended the eastern hill, which rises about eight hundred and fifty feet above the sea, and attended a somewhat impressive service in the old Catholic Church. Near by this point, at the eastern end of the island, are extensive ruins, remains of the ancient Villa of Jove, in which the Emperor Tiberius gave himself over to all manner of brutish sensuality. Here is the perpendicular rock, seven hundred feet in height, whence the victims of Tiberius's wrath were cast down into the sea. All about this end of the island one finds traces of ancient ruins, and there are winding pathways, some- 158 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, times cut through the solid rock, sometimes steep and dangerous, but always affording de- lightful rambles. The ruins of twelve palaces, which Tiberius dedicated to as many different deities, are said to be yet traceable upon this isl- and ; but we did not attempt to look them up. Some writers say that Capri was the home of the Sirens, and insist that the fairest of its women now are very beautiful. We observed among ourselves that one woman, whom we took to be the wife of the proprietor of our hotel, was, to say the least, good-looking. Her movements were graceful, and her general bearing worthy of a princess. When we were about to leave the island, we requested the pro- prietor to send our luggage down to the little boat by which we were first to visit the Blue Grotto, and thence proceed to Sorrento. As we were walking leisurely down the road to the beach, who should pass lightly by us but our admired " landlady," carrying our three heavy packages alone, and apparently with great ease, one calmly resting on her stately head, and the other two carried one in each hand! We looked at each other in mixed as- tonishment and mortification. "Colvin," said I, ''must we endure all this? How can weaver A TOVR THROUGH ITALY. I59 face the advocates of woman's rights again, and permit a woman — and such a woman ! — to carry all our traps?" The young man of our part}^ at once presumed to do the gallant thing, and stepped up to take at least one of the satchels out of her overburdened hand. But he soon discovered that her independent majesty would not tolerate such presumptuous interference. She spurned him away with an almost contempt- uous air, and looked as much as to say: ''Who is doing this job — you or I?" So we walked on, perhaps a quarter of a mile, following that woman, now hanging our heads, now laughing at the ludicrous spectacle we made, now won- dering what our female kith and kin would say to see us in such plight, and then avow- ing that we would, after all, be glad to have a photograph of ourselves and this woman of Capri just as we all looked at that moment. Our only comfort was that this was the custom of the island! A short sail in a boat with four rowers brought us to the entrance of the Grotta Az- zura. Here we three stepped into a smaller boat, barely large enough to hold us, and were told to lie down in the bottom and keep our heads low until we were within the grotto. A l6o RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. few strong strokes of the guide, and we found ourselves in a huge circular cave, more than one hundred feet in diameter, with a rocky ceiling forty feet above, and a depth of water of more than forty feet below us. The gor- geous coloring, for which this grotto is famous, now appeared in all its marvelous beaut3^ It is caused by the refraction of the sunlight through the blue water of the Mediterranean. An object thrown into the water, or a man swimming, takes on a silvery sheen, and the colors become lighter or deeper as the waves roll up at the entrance and so diminish some measure of the sunlight. We row^ed around and around the cavern, until it almost seemed we had entered some fairy world. SORRKNTO. Upon issuing from the grotto, we entered again our larger boat, and the strong oarsmen pulled us directly to Sorrento. The sail across the bay was full of interest, the landing at the foot of the high wall of rocks on which the city is builded, and the memorable walk up through the tunnel to the Hotel Victoria, were such bits of journeying as do not often come to the traveler. The house of Tasso on the A TOUR THROUGH ITAL V. 1 6 1 cliff, and the cathedral with its episcopal throne, and other objects of minor interest, I pass by. The glory of Sorrento, to my thought, was the magnificent views it afforded, and the glorious excursions that may so easily be made from it, either by boat, by carriage, on horseback, or on foot. We sat one evening in the open space in front of the Hotel Victoria, and watched an '' Italian sunset." The panorama of sea and ivSland and cape and mountain and cloudless sky had on us all the power of a peculiar hal" lucination. Far out over the western waters the sun sank slowly, and seemed to grow larger but less brilliant as it neared the horizon. We were able to look directl}^ at the splendid light without being dazzled with such a glare as the midday sun emits. Gradually the waters took on the livid '' sunset hue," and the hills of Capri threw lengthening shadows towards us. Like an immense globe of gold the sun at length dipped into the wave, then began to shimmer and beam with multiplied rays, as if taking to itself an aureola of glory with which to bid us good-night; then was half gone from view; then gleamed a moment, like a piercing eye of fire ; then sank and was lost in the watery depths afar. And yet all over that western II 1 62 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, sky and water hung a vision of varying splen- dors, as if the ranks of a heavenly host were lingering above the bed where some form of beauty had been laid to rest, and were watch- ing it with breathless interest. Slowly the darkness deepened, the western glory faded from our view; and then, turning our eyes to the other side of the bay, behold ! the fires of Vesuvius were filling all the heavens, and a stream of lava, ten or more feet broad, was pouring down the southern side of the moun- tain. We knew the sun had gone to greet our friends at home, beyond the ocean; but before we followed thither we had many another sight to see. PoMPEif AND Vesuvius. We made our visit to Porripeii and Vesuvius as a two days' excursion from Sorrento. The carriage-road from this point to Castel-a-Mare affords one of the most delightful drives in the world. We arrived at the Hotel Diomed, near the entrance of Pompeii, in the early after- noon; and having made arrangements for lodgings over night, and for the ascent of Ve- suvius in the early morning, we proceeded to examine leisurely the ruins of that famous old Roman city which lay for sixteen hundred A TOUR THROUGH ITALY. 163 years undisturbed beneath the cinders of Ve- suvius. The narrow streets are paved with blocks of lava, and everywhere one sees the ruts made by chariot-wheels two thousand years ago. We visited, of course, the Forum, and the Temples of Jupiter and Venus and Mercury and Neptune and Isis; the Triumphal Arch; ''the house of the tragic poet," and the house of Pansa, and the house of Sallust; the Gate of Herculaneum, the Street of Tombs, and the Villa of Diomed; the Greek Theater; the Triangular Forum; the Odeum; and the great Amphitheater, capable of seating ten thousand persons. Other houses and temples might be named, but of the same general char- acter. Here the antiquary can best study the life and customs of an old Roman town. It is now nearly one hundred and fifty years since this buried city was discovered and began to be exhumed, but we were told that more than one-half of it yet remains under the ac- cumulated ashes and dust of centuries. We were up and off at six o'clock the next morning for our trip to the crater of Vesuvius. We went on horseback as far as that mode of travel is practicable, and then climbed the re- mainder of the way by the aid of our guides. 164 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. It is no easy foot-journey, even for an experi- enced pedestrian, and the heaps of lava-rocks become a sore trial long before one comes to the soft ashes near the summit. Then the ascent is very tedious — two steps forward and one slide backward! But at last the summit was gained, and we stood at the foot of the burning cone. The whole mountain was quaking with a continual throb. Sulphureous fumes issued from many a crevice over which we trod. The ground was often hot beneath our feet. Our expectation and desire had been to climb to the top of the cone, and look down into the burning crater, but this the guide for- bade. We persisted, but he said he would take no risks, and if we went up we must go without him. This we had half resolved to do, when suddenly an enormous explosion oc- curred, and a volume of fire and smoke, cin- ders, and scoriae and stones, issued from the mouth of the crater, and shot upwards to the height of several hundred feet above the sum- mit, and then fell all over the top of the mountain. One huge boulder, of probably several hundred pounds weight, fell within a hundred feet of us. That settled it. We beat a hasty retreat, and all our ambition to draw A TOUR THROUGH ITALY. 1 65 nearer to the crater at that time became a thing of naught. But in our descent we drew near to the great river of lava that was pour- ing down the southern side of the mountain. It seemed to be about twenty feet broad and perhaps eight or ten in depth, and ran like so much melted iron from an immense blast-fur- nace. After running two or three miles it gradually cooled and hardened, and rolled up into vast heaps of dark-colored rock. The ride from Pompeii back to Sorrento was, if possible, even more charming than from the latter to the former. We passed the ruins of old Stabiae, where the elder Pliny died from the noxious vapors of the great Vesuvian eruption which destroyed Pompeii; we followed pictur- esque windings of the road, now over a magnifi- cent archway, now along the verge of the precip- itous mountain. On every side arose visions of beauty, and we observed that the bewitch- ing glories of the Bay of Naples were capable of indefinite multiplication by surveys from different points of view. Amai^fi. Another glorious trip is that by carriage- drive from Sorrento to Amalfi. We found it 1 66 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. difiScult to determine which was the more en- trancing, but, on the whole, concluded that this Amalfi tour was the more beautiful. The road passes over the mountain, and then fol- lows the line of the coast, in many places hun- dreds of feet above the sea. It has been pre- pared with great labor and expense, requiring in many places the support of great walls and viaducts ; in others, an extensive cutting away of the rocky cliff, or a tunnel through the point of some projecting promontory. At the time of our visit this wonderful drive-way was not yet completed, but we followed it to the heights of Projano, where we descended by a wild pathw^ay to the beach and proceeded thence by a small boat to Amalfi, '' where the waves and mountains meet," and where one is carried back in thought to the commerce and battles of the Middle Ages. For there was a time, we are told, when Amalfi had a popula- tion of fifty thousand, and commanded trading posts and factories in all the great cities of the East. The city became the seat of a powerful local government, which took the name of a republic, and figured prominently in connec- tion with the Crusaders' wars. It occupies a romantic position at the foot of a wild gorge in A TOUR THROUGH ITALY. 167 the mountain, and commands a fine prospect over the neighboring sea. Well might our poet, lyongfellow, write : " This is an enchanted land! Round the headlands far away Sweeps the blue Salernian bay, With its sickle of white sand ; Further still, and furthermost. On the dim discovered coast Psestum, with its ruins, lies ; And its roses, all in bloom, Seem to tinge the fatal skies Of that lovely land of doom." We sought one of the wild and weird little coves for which this coast is noted, and enjoyed a refreshing bath in the Mediterranean waves. We looked into the celebrated Cathedral of St. Andrew, gazed at its old bronze doors, its mo- saics, and its marbles. On the sides of the mountain is the quiet Convent of the Capu- chins, with its dreamy cloisters and arcades, and ** the terraced walk aloof," where the monk folds his hands, listens to the murmur of the bees, and leans forward over the rail, " Placid, satisfied, serene, Looking down upon the scene, Over wall and red-tiled roof; Wondering unto what good end All this toil and traffic tend. 1 68 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, And why all men can not be Free from care and free from pain, And the sordid love of gain, And as indolent as he." It seems to me now a shame that I should have gone to that Salernian shore and bathed in its waters, and yet not have visited the fa- mous walls and temples of Psestum, which were but a few hours' ride away. But, I ab- surdly reasoned, these old temples are less interesting than those of Athens and Gir- genti : why spend time to see so much of the same old cast? Temples, temples, temples; ca- thedrals, cathedrals, cathedrals; palaces, art- galleries, museums, — there is no end of them ; and with Rome yet before me, I can not now spend time to give a day to Paestum ! So I reasoned, and accordingly we rode over to Vie- tro, and thence by train to Naples, and thence, after a night of restful sleep, we started north- ward for the Eternal City. ROMB. Our route led us to Capua, near the ancient city of this name, forever to be associated with the wars of Hannibal, and onward to the sta- tion of San Germano, where we see, on the A TOUR THROUGH ITALY, 1 69 height above, the renowned Monastery of Mount Casino. We had a strong desire to visit that palatial convent and explore its li- brary and archives ; but, as in the case of those temples at Psestum, we could not stop to look at everything, and so we journeyed on to Rome. At length the Alban Hills came into view, and then we saw the ruined arches of the ancient aqueducts, and the Appian Way, and soon entered within the lofty walls, and found our way to the Hotel de Paris. One gratification to me was to have first approached this imperial city from the south, although I did not, like St. Paul, enter by the Appian Way. I found, too, as others have often said, that visiting Rome is unlike visiting any other city. So much of it has been made familiar from childhood that, to enter and look upon its ruins or its famous buildings, is like coming home. Who is not familiar with pic- tures of the Forum and the Coliseum and the Pantheon and St. Peter's ? The very location of the Seven Hills is known to the youngest tyro in ancient history. I shall not attempt, therefore, in these pages, any general descrip- tion of the thousand and one sights of Rome. I put most of my time in at the old Roman lyo RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, Forum, and tried to make myself very familiar with every object between the Capitol and the Coliseum. Next in interest was St. Peter's and the Vatican. After these, I think espe- cially of the Palace of the Caesars on the Pala- tine, the Baths of Caracalla, the Churches of St. John Lateran and St. Maria Maggiore, the Pantheon, and the Borghese Palace and villa. These, to be sure, are only a few out of many objects of remarkable attraction ; but they re- main fast in my memory, while others of per- haps equal fame have left no such deep im-^^ pression. ^^H Whether one contemplates a short stay or a ^ long one, it is advisable for him to embrace the first opportunity of a three or four hours* ride about the city. The ordinary guide-books, or any well-informed cab-driver, may indicate a route sufficiently comprehensive. Starting from the Forum of Trajan, for example, one would do well to pass first through the whole length of the Via del Corso, and go up on the Pincian Hill, whence the whole city is seen at a glance, and you can note the most conspicu- ous edifices, and the Campagna beyond, even to the distant sea. Returning from the hill, drive by the Mausoleum of Augustus, and the A TOUR THROUGH ITALY. 171 Borghese Palace, and thence to the bridge and Castle of St. Angelo — the latter once the tomb of Hadrian— and so on to the Piazza of St. Peter, where it would be well to alight for ten minutes, and walk into the vast church, and get one good first impression of its immen- sity; thence drive down the west side of the Tiber, through the Via del lyongara, recross the river by the Ponte Quattro Capi and the Island of St. Bartholomew, take a passing glance at the Arch of Janus, the Cloaca Max- ima, and the Temple of Vesta, and so pass on through the site of the old Circus Maximus around the southern and eastern sides of the Palatine, and approach the Coliseum through the Arch of Constantine. Then, turning to the left, proceed through the Arch of Titus to the Roman Forum, and compass it by way of the Capitoline Hill, and, returning on the opposite side of the Forum, pass the Coliseum on the north, and drive to the Church of St. John lyateran, and take a look at the Alban Hills from the piazza in front of the church. From this point go northward to the Church of St. Maria Maggiore, and around by the piazza and Palace of the Quirinal, from which place it will probably be but a short step to your hotel or 172 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, pensio7i. Such an extensive drive through the most interesting sections of the city will sup- ply a general idea of the whole, and serve as an excellent introduction to all the more particular excursions one may make after, wards. The one great church in Rome, which, of all others in the world, I had desired to see, was that of St. Peter. The remembrance of it now, after the lapse of years, is very vivid, and the thought of its vastness yet impresses me. There is that far-reaching central nave, which, upon entering, opens like a new world upon the view; there are those wonderful arches and costly panels of rare marble, and sculptured cherubs and angels, which at first appear small, but prove, on approaching, to be of colossal size; and there is that central altar and lofty canopy, where many golden lamps are always burning; and that indescriba- ble dome, supported by its mighty piers ; and the immense transepts, and the side chapels, — and all in such admirable proportion that one is obliged to take the actual measure of some parts to obtain a full impression of the vast in- terior. One may still quote with much satis- I A TOUR THROUGH ITALY. 173 faction the lines of Byron, written in the ear- lier part of this century : "But lo, the dome, the vast and wondrous dome, To which Diana's marvel was a cell, Christ's mighty shrine above his martyr's tomb ! I have beheld the Bphesian's miracle : Its columns strew the wilderness, and dwell The hyena and the jackal in their shade ; I have beheld Sophia's bright roofs swell Their glittering mass i' the sun, and have sur- veyed Its sanctuary the while the usurping Moslem prayed. But thou, of temples old, or altars new, Standest alone, with nothing like to thee, Worthiest of God, the holy and the true. Since Zion's desolation, when that he Forsook his former city, what could be Of earthly structures, in his honor piled, Of a sublimer aspect ? Majesty, Power, glor}^ strength, and beauty, all are aisled In this eternal ark of worship undefiled." But I am bound to record that there were some things about St. Sophia which impressed me more deeply than anything in St. Peter's, and I failed to feel in either place that I was in an '* ark of worship undefiled." I confess to the feeling that this most wonderful ecclesias- tical edifice of Christendom appears, as some 174 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. one has expressed it, more like an aesthetic glorification of Roman Catholicism than a true representation of the spirit and power of the gospel of Christ. Not in the churches, nor in the monuments of art for which Rome is cele- brated, need we look for the purest symbol- ism of the Christian faith. We will find much more of this in the depths of the old cata- combs, the burial-places of the early Christians, beyond the city walls. Therein the figures of the anchor, the vine, the palm-branch, the dove, and the phoenix, express, in simple but most touching form, the hopes and triumphs of the noble army of ^martyrs, of whom the world was not worthy. To enjoy either a short or a long visit in Rome, one ought to be a good walker. Hav- ing informed himself in advance of what he most wishes to see, he should form a definite plan of daily procedure. St. Peter's and the Vatican should be visited many times. The Forum and its vicinity should be the place of many a morning and evening walk. Such churches as St. Pietro in Vincoli, St. Maria Maggiore, and the Pantheon can be visited in the early morning, before the great museums and art-galleries are open, and the Coliseum A TOUR THROUGH ITALY. 1 75 should be seen at sunrise, at sunset, and by moonlight. Those who can endure it will find it a delightful experience to take a cab to the Baths of Caracalla, dismiss the driver there, and, having explored the Baths, return on foot between the Coelian and Aventine Hills, examining leisurely the various objects of in- terest on the south and west of the Palatine, and so proceeding northward to the Corso. Happy the man who is able to walk by the Appian Way some four or five miles south of the city, and thence return without any obli-. gations to driver or guide ; and happier still he who can extend his foot-journey to the Al- ban Hills, and, lodging there for a night, spend the next day in rambles over all its his- toric places. But every traveler must adapt himself to his own time and tastes. Many things of the most absorbing interest to some persons have no attraction for others. It is, as I have said, no part of the purpose of these pages to describe the multitudinous sights and treasures of the Eternal City. I will only add here a few general impressions. I. Rome links the thoughtful traveler to the buried past. Not to the remotest antiquity, but especially to the beginnings of our Chris- 176 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, tian era, and a few centuries before. One can not stand in the Forum, or in the Coliseum, or walk amid the massive ruins of the Palace of the Caesars, without feeling himself drawn into the life and thought of that olden time when Rome was mistress of the world. 2. One also here feels deeply how Rome has affected all modern civilization by the laws and ideas she has transmitted to the Western na- tions. Nor can one easily put aside the thought that all the strife and warfare and ri- valries of the modern States of Europe are an inheritance of the old Roman spirit. '' Hate and debate Rome through the world hath spread ; Yet Roma amor is, if backward read. Then is it strange Rome hate should foster? No; For out of backward love all hate doth grow." 3. The Protestant here looks with a pained heart upon the power and the pitiable super- stitions of Roman Catholicism. The magnifi- cence of St. Peter's and the inimitable treas- ures of the Vatican are a poor compensation for the ignorance and poverty and squalor and baptized idolatry which the papal system has entailed upon its millions of devotees. 4. It seems to me that ''young Italy," though A TOUR THROUGH ITALY. 177 freed from many galling chains, is still far from the liberty and glory which some have ascribed to her. The papal yoke still presses like a vampire on her life, and the evangelical churches and missions exhibit no life and power that promise hopeful results in the near future. O for an Italian Wesley or Whitefield, to go, Paul-like, into the streets and market- places, and sing, and preach, and ''dispute," if need be, that the masses of these priest-ridden people might hear a pure gospel of salvation through Christ alone ! The people perish for lack of knowledge. No pastor visits from house to house ; no evangelist goes after the people; no voice is heard crying in this wil- derness of christened heathenism loud enough to attract any general attention. Fl^ORBNCK. On our way northward from Rome we pass through many a scene of loveliness and his- toric interest. There is old Perugia, the quaint Etruscan city, set upon a hill, and farther on the silvery lake of Thrasymene, so famous in the wars of Hannibal : '' For there the Carthaginian's warlike wiles Come back before nie, as his skill beguiles The host between the mountains and the shore." 12 178 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, But we hasten on to Florence, ''brightest star of star-bright Italy," the city of the famous family of Medici, the city of Savonarola, the Athens of Italy, where one may yet behold the very houses where lived Michael Angelo, and Dante, and Machiavelli, and Galileo, and Amer- icus Vespucius, and Guicciardini. The visitor at Florence should embrace the first opportunity to obtain the wide and beau- tiful view of the city, and valley of the Arno, from the heights about the Poggio Imperiale. A short drive or walk outside the Porta Ro- mana will bring him to the new Piazza of Mi- chael Angelo, adorned by a great bronze copy of that sculptor's ''David." From this spot there is a glorious outlook over the city and suburbs of Florence, and to "the top of Fie- sole." Near this fascinating spot is the Tower of Galileo, from which, at evening-time, "through optic-glass the Tuscan artist" was wont to view the heavens. All about this drive the most charming views of hill and val- ley meet the eye, and one is better prepared for examination of the sights in the city after having first obtained this panoramic view of the outlying region. Especially, for this rea- son, should we ascend the hill of Bellosguardo ; A TOUR THROUGH ITALY. 1 79 for that point, as Mrs. Browning's '' Aurora lycigh" declares, — " Is a tower that keeps A post of double observation o'er The valley of the Ariio (holding as a hand The outspread city), straight toward Fiesole, And Mount Morello, and the setting sun, — The Vallombrosian Mountains to the right, Which sunrise fills as full as crystal cups, Wine-filled, and red to the brim because it's red." In taking the tour of the city we begin most naturally at the Piazza della Signoria. Here is the old Palazzo Vecchio, with its high clock-tower, and by it the magnificent Foun- tain of Neptune and an imposing equestrian statue of Cosmo. Notable palaces and houses face this open square ; but the most interesting, perhaps, of all its sights is the Loggia dei lyanzi, that most beautiful of all the open ar- cades of Italy, more famous for its groups of exquisite sculpture than for the grandeur of its lofty arches. This now beautiful and at- tractive center of Florentine life has witnessed many a bloody tragedy. More than one victim of popular wrath has been flung from the pal- ace windows, and dashed upon the stones be- low. Here the assassin's dagger has done its foul work. Here Guelph and Ghibelline have l8o RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. fought in bitter contest. Here, in 1498, Savon- arola was tortured and strangled, and then burned to ashes. From this historic piazza it is but a step to the Portico of the Uffizi. The very streets about this part of the city are filled with treas- ures of art. We enter the Uffizi Palace, and find on the first floor the National Library, with its three hundred thousand volumes and eight thousand manuscripts. We ascend to the sec- ond floor, and come to the world-renowned gal- lery which boasts not a few of the masterpieces of ancient and medieval art. We hasten on through the long corridors, and enter that fa- mous room known as the Tribune, where we find five pieces of sculpture which would be sufficient to give any art-collection a world-wide celebrity. These are the Venus de Medici, the ApoUino, the Slave Whetting his Knife, the Wrestlers, and the Dancing Fawn. Here, too, are some of the finest paintings of Michael Angelo, Raphael, Titian, Andrea del Sarto, and Correggio. We wander on through halls of bronzes and medals and coins and vases, which bewilder with their number and beauty and variety. We journey on through the passage which leads over the Arno to the Pitti Palace, A TOUR THROUGH ITALY, l8l and find the whole way lined with portraits of popes and kings and princes. The Pitti Palace is itself another vast collection of treasures of art, and the Boboli Gardens adjoining are a paradise of indescribable loveliness. Returning from these palaces of art, we re- cross the Piazza della Signoria, and visit the great cathedral and its bell-tower, and the Bap- tistery, whose eastern gates, according to a say- ing of Michael Angelo, *' were worthy to be the gates of paradise." In this Baptistery I lin- gered long, one Sunday evening, to witness the baptism of children by the Roman priests. A large company of parents, with their infants, waited in patience, as one after another went through the process of registering names and dates of birth, and many a mother looked worn and weary as she waited for her turn to come. The officiating priest was in no hurry, and though he had many assistants about him he seemed disposed to protract the service as long as possible. At length, when a registration was duly made, and the sponsor's vows were taken, he would take the infant in his hands, and, holding its head over a large laver, pour the consecrated water thereon three times in the name of the Holy Trinity, but, as it seemed 1 82 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, to me, with such lack of solemnity as to take largel}^ from the value of the form of service. Not faraway from this group of magnificent buildings is the Church of St. Lorenzo, where we find the tombs and monuments of the Medici. Here are the celebrated statue of Lo- renzi de Medici and its associate allegorical figures, Day and Night, Morning and Evening, which have been praised with most extravagant eulogy by some, but criticised by others as un- worthy of their fame. The poet Rogers wrote : "There the gigantic shapes of Night and Da}-, Turned into stone, rest everlastingly, Yet still are breathing ; and shed around at noon A twofold influence, only to be felt, — A light, a darkness, mingling each with each ; Both, and yet neither. There, from age to age, Two ghosts are sitting on their sepulchers. That is the Duke Lorenzo. Mark him well ! He meditates, his head upon his hand. What from beneath his helm-like bonnet scowls ? Is it a face, or but an eyeless skull ? 'T is lost in shade ; yet like the basilisk It fascinates and is intolerable. His mien is noble, most majestical." But of all the notable churches of Florence, the one which most attracted me was the Santa Croce, the Church of the Holy Cross. Not for its exterior or interior ornament ; not for an}^ A TOUR THROUGH ITALY. 1 83 peculiarity^ of structure ; not for its legends and pictures of the finding of " the true cross ;'* but rather because this church is the "West- minster Abbe}' " and the " Pantheon " of Flor- ence. It is enough to cite the inimitable lines of B3ron: " In Santa Croce's hoh- precincts lie Ashes which make it holier ; dust which is Even in itself an imniortalit}-, Though there were nothing save the past and this, The particle of those subUniities Which have relapsed to chaos: — here repose Angelo's, Alfieri's bones, and his, The starry Galileo, with his woes ; Here Machiavelli's earth returned to whence it rose." Pisa, Genoa, and Milan. But we tear ourselves away from beautiful Florence and go on to Pisa, where we stop only long enough to take a good look at the Cathe- dral, the Baptister\^ the Campo Santo, and the Leaning Tower. We linger awhile in front of those great bronze doors, and look in at the hanging bronze lamp, from which Galileo de- rived suggestive lessons in physics. We admire the architectural elegance of the Baptistery and its lofty dome. We look upon the holy earth brought by ship-loads from Palestine to 1 84 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, furnish the burial-ground of the Campo Santo, and walk around the vast corridor, and observe its notable monuments of sculpture. But the most interesting object of all the sights in Pisa is the Campanile, "or " Leaning Tower." This round tower, one hundred and eighty feet high, inclines from the perpendicular of its base some fourteen feet. Whether this pecul- iarity is the result of a defective foundation or a part of the original design, has long been an unsettled question. But some believe that it resulted from a defect in the foundation, dis- covered, however, before the tower was half completed, and remedied to some extent by making the columns of the upper stories higher on one side than the other. Whatever the cause or reason of its leaning, there that unique marble structure has stood for six hundred years, a wonder to the thousands and tens of thousands who have looked upon it as upon some beautiful but mysterious sphinx. From Pisa we journeyed on to Genoa, and there tarried for a night, and long enough to take a hasty look at a few of the famous palaces, the Cathedral of St. Lorenzo, and the Monu- ment to Columbus. A look out into the har- bor, with its countless vessels great and small, A TOUR THROUGH ITALY. 185 is something long to be remembered, and ac- counts for the number and magnificence of such palaces as adorn the Strada Nuovo, the Strada Nuovissima, and the Strada Balbi. The commerce of this celebrated sea-port is more than sufficient to create a city of palaces. From Genoa we passed on northward to Milan, and spent two days in looking over its numerous attractions. We drove out to the triumphal Arch of Peace, begun by the great Napoleon, and took a hasty glance into the Palace of Science and Art, with its picture-gal- lery and archaeological museum. We cast a longing gaze at the great Ambrosian Library, and wished for years to search its varied treasures. We went into the Church of St. Ambrose, and saw where the old Kings of lyombardy were wont to receive the iron crown. We visited the Dominican Convent, the wall of which still bears, though damaged in many ways, that masterpiece of lyconardo da Vinci, ''The I^ast Supper." But more mag- nificent than any other sight in Milan, and that which will longest remain in memory, is the many-spired cathedral, the labor of ages in one vast pile of marble. I climbed the great central spire, which is over three hundred feet 1 86 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, ill height, and looked down upon the thousands of white marble statues which stand like so many guardian angels on the pinnacles below. From that high point of view one takes in, at a single sweep of the eye, the whole outlying region of Italy and the towering Alps and Apennines. Vknick. From Milan I went by rail direct to Venice, and, having first traversed the Grand Canal by gondola from the railroad station to the Church of St. Maria della Salute, I took up my quarters nearly opposite that church of the bold and handsome dome, in the Grand Hotel d'ltalie, and settled down in great delight that at last I was permitted to spend some days in that city of the watery streets, of which I had heard and read so much. I knew that 1113^ hotel was in the immediate vicinity of the Piazza of St. Mark, and although it was al- ready evening time, I could not rest until I had first walked about that glorious square and taken a look at the gorgeous church, the high Campanile, the Doges' Palace, and the Bridge of Sighs. And I found that the evening hours were the time of all others to visit St. Mark's Square. Then and there one sees the pleasure- A TOUR THROUGH ITALY. 187 seeking crowds of Venice at their best. And so, in fact, within an hour and a half after my arrival, I had seen the great sights of Venice. There are, indeed, many other very beautiful and interesting things to see. There are a score of delightful excursions all about the neighboring islands. There are the inviting public gardens, and the arsenal, and the impos- ing Church of John and Paul, "the Westmin- ster Abbey of Venice," containing the vaults and monuments of the doges, and the Church of the Frari, which contains the tomb of Ca- nova; but the center and circumference of greatest interest are the places I have named as the great sights, which may be compre- hended in two terms, the Canal and St. Mark's. The Grand Canal, which is nearly two miles long, winds like a crooked serpent through the city, and almost doubles back upon itself. It is a great thoroughfare of traffic, lined on both sides with numerous palaces and churches, and on a moonlit night presents a weird ap- pearance, as hundreds of gondolas glide to and fro over its gleaming water. Pleasure-parties love to linger along its winding way until late into the night, and their merry songs are some- times heard long after the midnight hour. I 1 88 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, ^^ sailed its entire length at early morn, at mid- ™ day, and by moonlight, and failed not with each trip to observe things new and striking. I ever found the gondolier an amiable, clever, and accommodating guide. But the Piazza of St. Mark, and the various buildings associated with it, demand the trav- eler's chief attention. The great square is nearly six hundred feet in length, by a little less than half as broad, but widens towards the east. It is surrounded on three sides by imposing palaces, which were once the resi- dences of the officers of Government, and the ground-floors consist of arcades opening on the square, and crowded with shops and restau- rants. In these places we may see the princi- pal commercial activity of the modern town, especially the retail trade. At the northeast corner stands the conspicuous Clock Tower. The dial is in the middle of the tower, and decorated with the signs of the zodiac, through which the sun travels in regular course. Two black figures in bronze stand on the top of the building, and strike the hours on a loud-sound- ing bell. On the opposite corner, to the south, rises the lofty Campanile to the height of three hundred and twenty-two feet. The ajscent is A TOUR THROUGH ITALY, 189 by an easy incline pavement, up which, it is said, Napoleon once rode on horseback. The prospect from the summit of this tower en- ables one to take in the whole situation of Venice, and the outlying region as far as eye can reach. But the most notable structure is the Church or Cathedral of St. Mark, fronting the piazza on the east, and giving it its name. Its gor- geous fagade is without a parallel in the world. We will do our readers a favor by quoting the following description by Ruskin: ''A multi- tude of pillars and white domes, clustered into a long, low pyramid of colored light — a treas- ure-heap, it seems, partly of gold, and partly of opal and mother-of-pearl, hollowed beneath into five great vaulted arches, ceiled with fair mosaic, and beset with sculptures of alabaster^ clear as amber and delicate as ivory. Around the walls of the porches are set pillars of vari- egated stones, jasper and porphyry, and deep- green serpentine spotted with flakes of snow, and marbles that half refuse and half yield to the sunshine, Cleopatra-like, 'their bluest veins to kiss;' the shadow, as it steals back from them, revealing line after line of azure undu- lation ; their capitals rich with interwoven I90 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, tracery, rooted knots of herbage, and drifting leaves of acanthus and vine, and mystical signs, air beginning and ending in the cross ; and above them, in broad archivolts, a contin- uous chain of language and life — angels, and the signs of heaven, and the labors of men, each in its appointed season upon the earth; and above these, another range of glittering pinnacles, mixed with white arches, edged with scarlet flowers, a confusion of delight, amidst which the breasts of the Greek horses are seen blazing in their breadth of golden strength, and the St. Mark's Lion, lifted on a blue field covered with stars, until at last, as if in ec- stas}^, the crests of the arches break into a marble foam, and toss themselves far into the blue sky in flashes and wreaths of sculptured spray, as if the breakers on the Lido shore had been frost-bound before they fell, and the sea-nymphs had inlaid them with coral and amethyst." It is enough to say that the interior of this medieval structure is in keeping with its ex- terior. There are thousands of thousands of square feet of rich mosaics, and columns, and slabs of various marbles, and statues, and mon- uments, and wonders of art. Here, as in other A TOUR THROUGH ITALY, 191 places, one becomes oppressed with a sense of their seemingly infinite number and variety. On the south of this cathedral is the great Palace of the Doges, its west and south sides presenting those rich colonnades, one above the other, which have been a thousand times described by word and photograph. There is the spacious court-yard, and the Giant's Stair- case, and the numerous halls with their master- pieces of painting, and treasures of art and archaeology. On the east side of this palace, extending high over a canal, is the famous Bridge of Sighs; and near the southwestern corner, overlooking the Molo, are the two granite columns, one of which is surmounted by the Winged lyion, and the other by St. Theodore standing on a crocodile. Between these columns has rushed out many a human life in blood, for this was once the place of public executions. Opposite the Ducal Palace to the west, across the so-called Piazzetta, is that portion of the beautiful Palazzo Reale, which once served as the royal library. Its colonnades and graceful arches are in admi- rable keeping with all the magnificent display of architecture round about. I could not walk about the broad places of 192 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. Venice, and look upon her monuments of past glory, without a deep feeling of the certain perishableness of all human ambition and pride. For eleven centuries the Venetians were a power in the world of European and Eastern politics and commerce; but after the capture of Constantinople by the Turks, and the ocean discoveries of Vasco da Gama and Columbus, the tides of commerce turned away from this city of the hundred islands. But what memories of doges and knights and nobles linger here ! "A thousand years their cloudy wings expand Around me, and a dying glory smiles O'er the far times, when many a subject land Ivooked to the winged lion's marble piles, Where Venice sat in state, throned on her hundred isles. Before St. Mark still glow his steeds of brass, • Their gilded collars glittering in the sun; But is not Doria's menace come to pass? Are they not bridled? Venice, lost and won, Her thirteen hundred years of freedom done, Sinks, like a sea-weed, into whence she rose." (Efjaphr XI. SWITZERLAND AND THE ALPS. ROM Venice I returned to Verona, and ^^ thence went northward over the Tyrol U'^XET"^ Alps, by way of the Brenner Pass, to Innsbruck. I stopped a day and night at Trent, situated in the midst of magnificent Alpine scenery, where one might linger and ramble with increasing delight for many a day. I went into the old Church of St. Maria Mag- giore, where the celebrated Council of Trent held its sessions for almost twenty years — 1545 to 1563. I sat down on one of its ancient seats, and meditated on the methods and power of Romanism, until I was admonished that the shadows of night were falling and the church was about to be closed. The cathedral of this town deserves mention. The lions at its en- trance, the porphyry tombstone in one of the transepts, and the lofty dome, are objects which attract the attention of every traveler. The railway from this place down to Innsbruck passes through Alpine scenery of most inter- 194 GAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, esting character. Bridges over frightful gorges, tunnels through the mountains, enchanting views of valley and hillside and foaming riv- ulet, little villages nestling in the clefts of the rocks, and larger towns beautiful for situation, afford a continuous series of surprises and delights. These Eastern Alps abound in magnificent scenery, and Innsbruck is an excellent point from which to take a variety of excursions into the regions round about. But I hasten on to the Lake of Constance, and, pausing at Lindau just long enough to look at the old Roman tower by the bridge, and the hand- some lighthouse, and the marble lions, and the bronze statue of King Max II, I step on board one of the little steamboats which ply these lovely waters, bound for the city of Constance. Although this is not the most beautiful lake of Switzerland, it w^as the first of them w^hich I had up to that time seen, and it seemed to me then to lack no charms. The light-green water dazzled in the sunbeams; the winding shores, and the high lands beyond, and especially the towering Alpine ranges in the distance, and their snow-capped summits, opened a vision of beauty never to be forgotten. SWITZERLAND AND THE ALPS. 195 The student of ecclesiastical history finds in Constance a number of places of peculiar interest. Here the great Council was held in 1414-1418, at which, we are told, the Emperor Sigismund, Pope John XXIII, and several hundred cardinals, bishops, princes, counts, and doctors, and several thousand priests, as- sembled, and sought to settle the quarrels of rival popes, and to suppress the Hussite heresy. The Kaufhaus, or market-hall, in which the Council met, is a quaint old build- ing, and its upper room is adorned with a num- ber of wall-paintings, three of which are de- voted to John Huss. The first represents him in the act of making his protest before the Council, in the second he appears in chains, and in the third he is seen burning at the stake^ In the cathedral, not far away, is shown a stone slab, on which Huss is said to have stood when he received the sentence of death; and the house he occupied during his stay in Constance is marked by a tablet bearing his portrait. But to the Protestant pilgrim the mOvSt sacred spot at Constance is the inclosure, half a mile to the west of the Kaufhaus, in the midst of which lies the huge boulder marking the spot where both Huss and Jerome suffered 196 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. martyrdom. The place is approached through a long avenue of trees, and is visited by thou- sands annually. Almost five centuries have passed away since these Hussite reformers were burned, and their ashes cast upon the waters; but their memory and opinions are to-day honored in all lands, and spreading more and more, while those who condemned them, if not all forgotten, are no more honored than the brutes that chanced to die when they did. A short run by rail, through most beautiful views of lake and field and orchard and wooded highland, brought me to Schaffhausen and the Falls of the Rhine. Once told of it, one ever remembers that the great bell of the Schaff- hausen Cathedral bears the significant inscrip- tion : Vivos voco^ 7}wrtiios pla7igo,fiilg2iraf7'a7igo (I call the living, I bewail the dead, I break the lightning). In going from this old town to the falls I adopted the true and independent style of the happy tourist, and made the jour- ney on foot. It was no fatiguing walk — being only a distance of about two miles — and it af- forded a delightful view of the river as it ap- proaches the rocks above the main cataract, and begins to leap and foam as if preparing for the fearful plunge it is so soon to take. I SWITZERLAND AND THE ALPS, 1 97 crossed the long bridge just above the main falls, and could see the rapid rushing waters gliding along their rocky bed and disappearing over the precipice. The grounds of the Hotel Schloss lyaufen command the most impressive views of the river and the falls. Foot-paths lead to all desirable points of view, the most noted being that from the iron platform, which is builded out immediately above the wildest portion of the foaming cataract. This plat- form continually trembles by reason of the rushing flood, the waters plunge and foam and roar, and send their spray afar, and at certain hours of a sunshiny day innumerable rainbows crown the scene. In order to take in all the views, we cross the river below the falls, and take a little boat to a great rock that rises out of the waters near the base of the cataract. From this point one can survey the irregular ledges of rock over which the water passes, and the successive and varied leaps of the river as it rushes madly down its descent of nearly one hundred feet. Another delightful ride through picturesque landscapes brought me to Zurich, the city of Zwingli, and the literary center of German Switzerland. For beauty of situation, few 198 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. places can be found that leave so little more to be desired. The very suburbs are beautiful. The "pale-green lake" is a never- failing inspi- ration. The highly-cultivated country around invites the eye and charms the fancy. The Alps on Alps that tower afar, and seem to min- gle with the clouds, combine with all the other sights to make one feel that he is in an en- chanted land. I walked the whole length of the Bahnhofs Strasse, and crossed a dozen times that memorable Quaibriicke. I sailed to and fro over the lake as far as Rapperschw^yl. I lingered in a dreamy maze about those High Promenades among the lime-trees, I ascended to the top of Uetliberg, and almost wished that I might stay there for 3'ears. The objects of chief interest within the city are the Lindenhof, in the center of the towm, the eminence on which the first inhabitants erected their dwellings; the Gross-Miinster, with its ancient cloisters and monuments, where Zwdngli ministered for many years; the City Library, where one may see the Bible used by Zwingli, and the marginal annotations which he made; also autograph letters of Zwingli, Lad}^ Jane Grey, and Frederick the Great, and others of like celebrity; the Arsenal, where are SWITZERLAND AND THE ALPS. 1 99 shown the various weapons and flags of former times, and the battle-ax, sword, coat of mail, and helmet which were worn by the great Swiss reformer when he fell upon the fatal field of Kappel. The university building, known as the Polytechnicuni, commands a magnificent view over the city, the lake, and the mountains beyond, and the cluster of various schools in that section of the city makes it a place of par- ticular attraction. After several days of delightful sojourn at Zurich, I started for the Rigi. The railroad runs amid scenes of bewitching loveliness from Zurich to Zug, whence a little steamer took me over the lake to Arth, at the base of the Rigi. The Lake of Zug, some eight miles long and two miles wide, has, on its northern bank, the remains of a number of the old ''lake-dwell- ings," which have so interested inquirers into man's antiquity. The views of several mount- ains and snow-capped peaks, as seen from the lake, are very fine. The ascent of the Rigi, by the mountain railway from Arth, affords many a pleasing outlook, but does not permit one to see the glorious panorama visible from the summit until he arrives there, when the whole scene bursts upon him in one bewildering 200 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. vision. From the Kulm, or summit, you look down upon the Lake of Lucerne on the one side, and the Zug on the other, while eight or ten other lakes appear like so many sheets of silver in the distance. Many of the most fa- mous pinnacles of the Alps are visible, such as the Jungfrau, and the Eiger, and the Schreckhorn, and the still loftier Finsteraar- horn. Nearer at hand, across the Lucerne Lake, rises the bold and rugged Mount Pilatus, and stands like a sentinel over the surround- ing shores. It was my good fortune to spend a night upon the Rigi, and witness thence both a sunset and a sunrise without clouds. Glori- ously sank the great luminary behind the Jura Mountains, amid a gorgeous halo of crimson and gold, and we lingered long to watch the fading tints as they disappeared in the gather- jug darkness of night. Before four o'clock next morning we were wakened by the moun- tain shepherd's horn, and hastened out to be- hold the twilight breaking over the eastern hills. Glorious beyond description was that memorable sunrise, and, in the spell of its magical influence and suggestions, we seemed to be witnessing the creation of a new heaven and a new earth. SWITZERLAND AND THE ALPS. 20I I descended from the Rigi by the mountahi railway to Vitzenau, and took the tour of that most beautiful of all the lakes of Europe, the Vierzvaldstatter See, Everything in the way of mountain grandeur, and beautiful slopes, and villas nestling in the rocks, and deep ra- vines opening up from the water's edge, and weird grottoes in the rocky cliffs, and the St. Gothard Railway with its wonderful tunnels and openings on the lake, — these, and a thou- sand other things I can not name, make a sail around this Lake of Lucerne one of the most delightful excursions in the world. We are shown at one place the famous spot where, tradition says, William Tell sprang out of Gessler's boat and made his escape; and near the spot, half-hidden in the trees, is the little building known as ''Tell's Chapel." At Lu- cerne we stop long enough to look at the fa- mous Dying Lion, transfixed by a broken lance. This lion is nearly thirty feet in length, and hewn out of the solid rock. Adjoining this splendid work — which owes its conception to the genius of Thorwaldsen — is the remarkable Glacier-garden, where a large number of deep holes have been worn in the rocks by the ac- tion of the ice and water of a former age. 202 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. From Fluelen, at the opposite end of the lake, I made a little trip to Altdorf, where, accord- ing to tradition, Tell shot the apple from the head of his son. A gigantic statue of the archer is erected on the spot where Tell is supposed to have stood, and a fountain, a hun- dred and fifty yards distant, marks the place occupied by the boy. Having seen all this, how could I ever thereafter doubt the histor- icity of the story of the great Swiss hero ! From Fleulen to Goschenen we take the wonderful St. Gothard Railway up through the valley of the Reuss. We pass in sight of pic- turesque fields, and many fruit-trees, and some ruined castles; and then up, up, up those winding ways, across iron bridges, under which the rushing waters foam and leap in beautiful cascades. On a distant hill-top we see the ruins of what is known as one of Gessler's castles. Then we enter, one after another, those wonderful ''loop-tunnels;" and after winding about in the darkness, we emerge on a higher point of the mountain, and behold in surprise that we have made no progress for- ward, but have simply risen to a higher eleva- tion. And so we climb the mighty hills, amid continual surprises of charming views and SWITZERLAND AND THE ALPS, 203 frightful passes over bridge and cliff, until we reach Goschenen, near the entrance of the great St. Gothard Tunnel, which runs over into Italy. This tunnel is more than a mile longer than that of Mont Cenis. At Goschenen we leave the cars and take dili- gence through Andermatt and Hospenthal, and over the Furka Pass to the Rhone Glacier. The ascent from the railroad to Andermatt should be traveled on foot if one would fully appreciate the wild and rocky scenery. Huge granite rocks tow^er almost perpendicularly above you, deep gorges open below, and the leap- ing waters of the Reuss dash along and sound their passage down the lonely way. The ''Devil's Bridge " is at a point where the scen- ery is grandest and most wild. The water falls a hundred feet over the rocks, and the wind often carries the spray far over bridge and road and mountain-side. Several fierce battles have been fought at this lone pass in the mountains, and these wild waters have been reddened with the blood of the slain. Andermatt is famous as a resort for invalids, and (whatever may be thought of the strange association) for a char- nel-house adorned with inscribed human skulls. At Hospenthal we see a fair specimen of an 204 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. Alpine town. Here winter lasts a large part of the year, and the simple and unambitious populace go about their quiet walks undis- turbed by the noise and conflict of the world beyond their mountain homes. We pass an old tower, said to be the remains of a Lombard castle, and follow the mountain stream upward towards its sources. The road winds along the valley and up the mountain-side, commanding varied views of the grassy slopes and the snow- capp'ed peaks beyond them. As we nearedthe summit of the Furka, I noticed the vegetation, with occasional flowers, growing within a few rods of vast snowdrifts. These snow-piles, like the glaciers, become so deep and solid that the short summer fails to melt them before an- other winter comes and holds them fast. The Furka Pass commands magnificent views of the great Alpine pinnacles, such as the Fin- steraarhorn, the Oberaarhorn, and the Mat- terhorn. We go down into the Rhone Valley ])y a romantic, zigzag road, and approach what has been our main object in this Alpine tour, the wonderful Rhone Glacier. This consists of an immense pile of snow and ice between two mountains, extending six miles up the valley and having the appearance of a frozen SWITZERLAND AND THE ALPS, 205 cataract. The devScription given in Longfel- low's ''Hyperion " is worthy of transcription : ''At the base it is arched like a dome, and above jagged and rough, and resembles a mass of gigantic crystals, of a pale emerald tint, mingled with white. A snowy crust covers its surface ; but at every rent and crevice the pale-green ice shines clear in the sun. It is a gauntlet of ice, which centuries ago Winter, the King of these Mountains, threw down in defiance to the Sun; and, year by year, the Sun strives in vain to lift it from the ground on the point of his glittering spear." From the foot of this glacier issues the River Rhone, a considerable creek of dirty ice- water, rushing out from its crystal cave as if eager to escape from the cold, dark prison. When I had reached this point of my travels, and gazed my fill upon the famous glacier, my soul was troubled with an ambitious desire to do two things, both of which were, for me, im- practicable. One was to follow the Rhone down through all its windings to Chamouni and Mont Blanc, making a number of detours by the way ; the other was to follow the bridle- path over the Grimsel, by the Todtcnsee to the Grimsel Hospice, and so on down the Valley 2o6 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, of the Aare to the Handegg Fall, Meiringen, Brienz, and Interlachen. This latter journey I found it most difl&cult to give up. But, alas ! I had made other plans before coming here, left my luggage at Fluelen, and must needs re- turn that way to Lucerne. But what I lost in those much-longed-for rambles I partly made up by another and more leisurely examination of the Furka Pass, Andermatt, and the wild and wonderful road between that place and the Lake of Lucerne. From Lucerne I went to Berne, and stopped long enough to look at its bears and fountains and cathedral, and the magnificent views from the cathedral terrace, and thence hastened on * to Freiburg. The picturesque scenery along the way, with all variet}^ of hill and valley, field and forest, bridges and tunnels, is but a repetition, in the main, of what we have else- where seen. The great suspension-bridge at Freiburg, nearly a thousand feet in length, is a wonder in itself, and commands impressive views of the deep ravine below. From Frei- burg I journeyed to Lausanne, and lingered there a day to revel in the beautiful views it commands of the Genevan Lake and the sur- rounding region. The great Gothic cathedral SWITZERLAND AND THE ALPS. 207 stands on the height above the town, and con- tains numerous objects of interest. But to me the matter of greatest interest was that this old church, erected in the thirteenth century, was the place where, in 1536, Calvin, Farel,and Viret took part in the disputation which led to separation from the Church of Rome. Near this place also once stood the summer-house in which Gibbon completed his great *' History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire." But next I turn to the deep-blue waters of the charming lake, and sail from lyausanne to Geneva. '' Lake Leman wooes me with its crystal face, The mirror where the stars and mountains view The stillness of their aspect in each trace Its clear depth yields of their fair height and hue." Our little steamer keeps near the northern shore, and touches at Rolle, and Nyon, and Cop- pet. At this last-named place we see the cha- teau of Neckar and his famous daughter, Madame de Stael. At length the goodly city of Geneva comes into view, and we step off at the Quai du Mont Blanc, and proceed to explore the points of interest in this metropolis of Switzerland. About the first thing I did was 208 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, to walk over the little bridge to Rousseau's Island, look at the monument of that philoso- pher, and watch the rapid waters of the Rhone as they start off on their journey to the sea. To the ordinary tourist, Geneva has no great sights to interest, except its charming view^s of lake and hillside and distant mountain ranges. There are beautiful walks and drives along the lakeside and over the neighboring hills. In a clear atmosphere the huge dome of Mont Blanc is seen against the southern sky. We visit all the quays and the Jardin Anglais and the prom- enades and the boulevards and the Russian Chapel. I entered the cathedral and sat down in Calvin's chair, and visited his house, which is left in great neglect as compared with the care taken in Germany with places made fa- mous by the presence and i-esidence of Luther. Of greatest interest was the university and the public library, filled with its treasures of lit- erature and art. Here one may see the por- traits of all the leading princes and statesmen and reformers and scholars of the time of Cal- vin. Here are letters and manuscripts of rare value, and specimens of the earliest printed books. But — farewell, Switzerland! Let us awa}" to France. eJ Or^apfBr XII. PARIS. '^ MADE my journey from Geneva to Paris \G by a night express, and arrived in the ^ ^ great city of the Seine about eight o'clock in the morning. As the railroad station where I left the train was in the southeastern section of the city, and my hotel near the Arch of Triumph at the farther end of the avenue of the Champs Elysees, my first ride of forty or fifty minutes took me directly through the most interesting portions of the great metrop- olis. By reason of previous study of the plan of Paris, I recognized the most notable places as we passed along. Almost the first view to the north, along the broad Rue de Lyons, took in the Place de Bastile — the site of the old prison of this name — on which now rises the lofty bronze Column of July, surmounted with a gilt globe and a colossal statue of Iyibert3^ Far to the left we caught glimpses of the domes of the Pantheon and the Church of the Invalides, glittering in the morning sun. Then 14 209 2IO RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, we noticed the river, and the Isle of the City, and the towers of Notre Dame. Then we passed the magnificent Hotel de Ville, and the Tower of St. Jacques; and a few moments later we were driving by the splendid Palace of the Louvre, and the ruins of the once more splen- did Tuileries, and then the garden of that fallen palace; and then the memorable Place de la Concorde, and from it a glimpse of the Church of the Madeleine; and then we entered the Champs Elysees, and approached the Arc de Triomphe with a feeling of supreme gratifi- cation that we had taken in so much, at this very first glance, of the most beautiful city of the world. Having established myself in a most com- modious and comfortable pension in the Ave- nue de Friedland, less than five minutes' walk from the Arch of Triumph, I soon sauntered forth to look upon that noble structure. It is said to be the largest triumphal arch in Eu- rope, and perhaps the most magnificent in the world. The central arch is ninety feet above the pavement, and the entire height of the stone-work is more than one hundred and fifty feet. The corner-stone was laid by Napoleon in 1806, but the monument was not completed PARIS. 211 until 1836. It was designed to commemorate the victories of the French armies, and the groups of statuary which adorn the several sides consist of symbolical representations of War, Victory, Peace, and Fame. Many of the figures are portraits of the great men whom France delights to honor. We ascend by an interior winding stairway of two hundred and sixty-one steps, and reach the broad summit, which affords the finest view over the great city and the surrounding region. On the west lies the vast park known as the Bois de Bou- logne, consisting of more than two thousand acres. It contains several artificial lakes which, altogether, cover some seventy acres. Here, in the afternoon, may be seen the most splen- did equipages of the French capital; and the sight of horses, carriages, and riders is, with many, the most attractive thing in Paris. On the eastern side, the Champs Elysees stretches away to the central part of the city, and termi-' nates in the Place de la Concorde, and the Gardens of the Tuileries. Twelve avenues radiate from this triumphal arch, like so many rays diverging from a star, and hence the full French name, ly'arc de Triomphe de TEtoile. Through all these avenues the eye ranges at 212 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. will over varied and beautiful aspects of the great city. No walk in Paris is more entertaining than that from the Arch of Triumph down through the Champs Elysees. The foot-pavements are laid in bitumen, and are about twelve feet wide. The entire way is adorned with trees and foun- tains, and arbors for rest, and an abundance of restaurants. Through this broad way most of the grand equipages drive en roitte to the Bois de Boulogne. In the evening time, avenue and side-streets and restaurants are brilliantly illuminated, and the gay pleasure-seekers throng the places in crowds, and often linger until the morning hours. At the point where the avenue opens into the Elysian Fields, or about half-way between the Arch of Triumph and the Place de la Con- corde, is the Round Point, a circular space adorned with fountains and flower-beds. From this place two broad avenues open to the River Seine. We go onward a few steps, and the great Palace of Industry presents to us, on the right, a front of seven hundred feet, and on the left stands the famous Eb'sian Palace of Napoleon. This latter was Napo- leon's favorite residence, and has been the PARIS. 213 temporary abode of many of the most distin- guished personages of modern European his- tory. Further on we come to the Place de la Concorde, a beautiful but sad and memorable spot, associated with much that is most hor- rible in the records of crime and blood. It is a great square, seven hundred and fifty feet by five hundred, opening on the River Seine, and having the Garden of the Tuileries on one side and the Champs Elysees on the other. In the center rises an obelisk seventy-two feet high, brought hither from the Temple of I^uxor at Thebes. It occupies the spot where the guil- lotine did its bloody work during the terrible years of 1793 and 1794. Here, during that period, nearly three thousand persons were be- headed, among whom were the King lyouis XVI and the beautiful Marie Antoinette. But there is nothing now about the place adapted to remind one of the *' Reign of Terror." On each side of the obelisk is a beautiful fountain, sending up bright waters in the sunlight, and about the square stand eight colossal monu- ments in stone, representing the chief cities of France. From this square we ascend to the Garden of the Tuileries, which stretches away more 214 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, than two thoUvSand feet towards the palace, and is bounded by terraces which greatly add to the general impression of artistic beauty. The w^hole space is like a wilderness of shrubs and flowers and trees and groups of statuary, and naturally invites a multitude of such as seek repose amid scenes of loveliness. Here the gayest society of Paris resort on summer even- ings; and during the daytime one may always see the halting invalid, the old man, and mothers and nurses with children, enjoying the luxury of pleasing sights and healthful air. On the southeast of this garden — facing it, and commanding the whole vision of terraces, fountains, monuments, and the Champs Elysees as far as the Arch of Triumph — once stood the splendid Palace of the Tuileries. The facade that faced the garden and the Champs Elysees was a thousand feet in length; but after the fall of Napoleon III, when Communistic fury was running wild in the capital, the lawless mob attempted to destroy the entire group of imperial structures, and succeeded in burning the Tuileries and the Library of the Louvre. No attempt has since been made to rebuild the royal palace. We picked our way over the blackened heaps, and entered what was the PARIS, 215 inner court of the great palace, known as the Carrousel. Here we obtain a fine impression of the vastness of this pile of royal structures. Here is space sufficient for a large army to pass in review; and here, it is said. Napoleon received, previous to their departure on the disastrous Russian campaign, the magnificent array of troops that were destined to perish without victory. Here stands the triumphal arch which Napoleon erected some years be- fore his march into Russia, and on which he placed the bronze horses from St. Mark, in Venice. This arch is less imposing than the one at the head of the avenue of the Champs Elysees, and seems hardly in keeping with the colossal grandeur of surrounding objects. The bronze horses upon it are a more modern sub- stitute for those from Venice, which were re- stored after the fall of Napoleon. The north and south sides of the Place du Carrousel are walled by a continuous line of palaces, which were designed to connect the Tuileries with the lyouvre. The courts and palaces together must cover an area of not less than sixty acres. We pass eastward by the pyramidal monument of Gambetta, and through imposing pavilions, and enter the court of the 2l6 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. Louvre. This world-renowned palace incloses an open space of nearly five hundred feet square, and presents from every point of view a most imposing spectacle. The passage-ways of entrance in the center of each of the four sides, the gates of bronze, the colonnade, the fagades, and sculptured ornamentation are all of surpassing beauty. But this Louvre is no longer a royal residence. It has served for many a year as a museum of antiquities and works of art, and is to-day the treasure-house of one of the most extensive and costly collec- tions in the world. We may as well enter now as any time, and take our glimpse at some of the marvels of art. As in other great museums of the kind, we find the objects of chief interest and value arranged in classes. Immense halls, and some- times a series of halls, are filled with collections from particular countries, or with monuments of some notable schools or periods of art. There are two vast rooms devoted to Assyrian monuments, and various antiquities brought from the ruined cities of Western Asia. In the adjoining Egyptian museum one may wan- der amid colossal bulls and sphinxes, and statues of gods and kings, and sarcophagi and PARIS. 217 mummies, that take us back in thought three thousand years. And so we pass along through the magnificent rooms, and up the stairways, and into side chambers and galleries, until one's head swims amid the bewildering accumulations of antique marble, and sable bronze, and gleam- ing alabaster, and paintings of all the ages and all the great masters. But these wonderful galleries of art must be visited leisurely, and portions only at a time, if one would carry away with him any definite impression. Weeks and months are necessary for anything like satisfactory study of the treasures. One wants a whole week for the Eg3^ptian museum alone. As a mere sight- seer one needs an hour for the Venus de Milo, and another for the Borghese Gladiator, and more than an hour for Murillo's masterpiece, "The Immaculate Conception." How many hours and days, then, would suffice for the thousands of other sights almost as fascinating! Passing out of the eastern portal of the lyouvre we come into the broad and beautiful street of the same name, and see, directly op- posite, the gorgeous fagade of the Church of St. Germain. We remember that it was the bell of this church which, on the night of 2l8 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, August 24, 1572, sounded forth the signal for the Massacre of St. Bartholomew. A few steps to the north stands the less notable Church of Ste. Marie, by which we walk into the grand Rue de Rivoli, and through it, eastward again, to the Tower of St. Jacques. From the sum- mit of this tower we obtain another memorable view, and the best possible panorama of the great buildings and streets in the central por- tion of the city. A little to the east of this tower, as we follow on the Rue de Rivoli, the magnificent fagade of the Hotel de Ville opens upon us, looking down upon the great square of the same name. On this broad place the bloodiest deeds of French history have been perpetrated, and public executions have enter- tained the vulgar crowd. From the southern side of this open square we cross, by a bridge, over the Seine to the "Isle of the City;" pass in front of the old and famous hospital knowm as the Hotel Dieu, and come to the grandest and most historic of all the churches — the cele- brated Cathedral of Notre Dame. It is said to occupy the site of what was once a pagan tem- ple. The foundation of the present edifice was laid in the latter part of the twelfth century; but it has been enlarged and changed from PARIS. 219 time to time, and may be said to have been in course of building and restoration during seven hundred years. The great facade presents a world of grandeur and beauty to the eye, and the two lofty towers add much to the impress- iveness of the whole. We ascend the south- ern tower, and see the ''Bourdon Bell," which weighs thirty-two thousand pounds, and re- quires eight men to ring it. From the summit of either tower we obtain extensive views over the city. The interior of this ancient pile pre- sents a magnificence of arches and columns, and statuary and paintings, which are in keep- ing with its history and importance. The length of the church is nearly four hundred feet, and the height of the towers more than two hundred. If one is willing to look upon a sad and loathsome sight, let him go to the rear of this cathedral, at the eastern end of the island, and enter the Morgue, where the unknown dead of Paris are exposed for recognition and identifi- cation. The bodies are placed, as far as pos- sible, in a sitting posture, and in the clothes in which they are found; and, behind a glass par- tition and in a cool temperature, are usually retained three days. If not identified and 2 20 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. claimed by that time, a photograph is taken, and they are buried at the public expense. A notable number of those here exposed to view are found in the river, and are probably sui- cides. Here I saw the body of a beautiful young woman, with her somewhat gaudy gar- ments *' clinging like cerements," while the wet wave of the dark-flowing river seemed 3^et to drip from her clothing. How natural to ask in such a place. the questions of Hood's mem- orable poem : "Where was her home? Who was her father ? Who was her mother ? Had she a sister? Had she a brother? Or was there a dearer one Still, and a nearer one Yet than all other?" Other objects of interest on this ancient island are the Palace of Justice, and the adjoin- ing Sainte Chapelle, a Gothic edifice of exquisite beauty, and with immense windows of stained glass. Here, too, is the famous Conciergerie, where Marie Antoinette, Danton, and Robes- pierre were imprisoned previous to their exe- cution. Near by are also the Tribunal of Commerce, and the Prefecture of Police, and • PARIS. 221 in the large square between this latter and the cathedral is a fine equestrian statue of Charle- magne. The several bridges which connect this island with the northern and southern banks of the Seine are also worthy of partic- ular admiration. Proceeding now across the bridge that leads into the Rue St. Jacques, we soon come to that most interesting collection of antiquities, art, and industry, the Cluny Museum. Here are more than ten thousand articles, such as elab- orate carvings in wood; sculptures in stone, marble, alabaster ; china-ware ; ivory- work ; tapestries; shoes, slippers, stockings; and ve- hicles of divers sorts. The various articles fill many halls and galleries. Immediately adjoin- ing are the ruins of the old Roman palace, said to have been founded by Chlorus near the end of the third century. Here a considerable number of Roman antiquities are preserved, and the student of the earliest history of Paris will find much of absorbing interest. Ju^t to the south of the museum we come to the buildings of the College of France, and the celebrated Sorbonne, so famous in the medi- eval and later history of Paris. A few steps to the southeast of these buildings we find the 222 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. Pantheon, once and again a church, but now a ''Temple of Fame," the tomb of Victor Hugo, and formerly of Marat and Voltaire and Mira- beau and Rousseau. The magnificent dome is one of the most conspicuous objects in the en- tire city. Hard by this place is the ancient Church of St. Etienne du Mont, built in the time of Clovis, and famous for its tombs of Racine and Pascal and Rollin. It is but a short walk from the Pantheon to the Jardin des Plantes, the most complete and famous museum of natural history in the world. Here is, to begin with, a delightful pleasure-ground, where one may stroll for hours and days amid sights of beauty. Here are green-houses, adapted to the preservation and cultivation of plants from all climates. Here are almost numberless museums, or ''galleries," of botany and zoology and mineralogy and anatomy and anthropology. Here is a men- agerie of all sorts of animals; and there are public halls and laboratories, where lectures are given on ever}" branch of science connected with natural history. Returning westward again, and passing by the Pantheon, we soon come to the Palace of the Luxembourg. It has served for a prison PARIS, 223 and a senate-house as well as a palace. The garden, which opens before it to the south, is one of almost ideal beauty, and is adorned with trees and walks and fountains, and monuments of statuary by distinguished artists. While in this vicinity we should visit the Church of St. Sulpice, and behold its countless decorations and its famous organ. While on this southern side of the city we may as well pay our visit to the Hotel des In- valides. This is a magnificent home for the aged and dependent soldiers of the nation, where they are cared for at the public expense. It consists of a vast pile of buildings, with in- terior courts, while the numerous projections and angles and pavilions present an exterior of most impressive architectural effect. It contains a museum of artillery, an extensive library, and other objects of note; but prob- ably more interesting than- any of these, to most travelers, are the ample dining-room and kitchen, and the arrangements for cooking many hundreds of pounds of meat at a time. The adjoining Church of St. lyouis is notable for being the depository of a multitude of ban- ners captured by the French from other na- tions; but the circular edifice, known as the 224 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, Dome, is distinguished above all other parts of this vast pile of buildings for containing the tomb of Napoleon Bonaparte. Here the mor- tal remains of the great commander repose in a massive sarcophagus of polished porphyry. The sarcophagus rests on a pedestal of green granite, and occupies a circular crypt, which is open at the top and surrounded by a balus- trade. Directly above it, one hundred and sixty feet aloft, rises the wonderful dome, which is one of the most conspicuous objects in the city. From this dome and the painted win- dows there pours down, over tomb and pave- ment and all surrounding monuments, a flood of golden light, which never fails to produce upon the visitor an impression of peculiar ravishment. We look over the balustrade, and on the pavement of the crypt behold inscribed the names of Napoleon's famous battle-fields, while all about stand colossal statues, symbol- izing his principal victories, and marble bas- reliefs representing the beneficent fruits of his rule. Here, too, in an adjoining recess, are a statue of the emperor as he appeared in his imperial robes, a golden crown, the insignia he wore on state occasions, and the sword of Aus- terlitz. A winding stairway leads down to the PARIS. 225 entrance of the crypt, and over the door is written in French this quotation from Napo- leon's will: ''I desire that my ashes may re- pose on the banks of the Seine, in the midst of the French people whom I have so much loved." At the sides and in the transepts of this splendid Pantheon are chapels containing the tombs of Jerome and Joseph Bonaparte. The two monumental chapels, opposite each other, of Turenne and Vauban, distinguished military heroes of a previous age, are not only admirable in themselves, but add much to the general effect of this wonderful interior. Passing out from this most remarkable of tombs, and going a few steps to the west, through the Avenue de Tourville, we come to the vast Champ de Mars, where Napoleon cel- ebrated a great festival just before proceeding to the fatal field of Waterloo. Here many a similar concourse has assembled to celebrate victories or to witness grand parades, and on these am- ple grounds several ''Universal Expositions" have been held. On the southeastern end of the square is the Military School, an immense building covering an area of twenty-six acres; and at the opposite end, across the river, are the magnificent grounds and Palace du Troc- 15 226 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, adero. The highly ornamented bridge which crosses the Seine at this point, and connects these splendid open places, is called the Pont d'Jena, in honor of the victory of Napoleon and the French army at the battle of Jena, in 1806. From the Champ de Mars we follow the broad Avenue de la Motte Piquet to the Espla- nade des Invalides, and proceed northward, through its shaded walks, to another portion of the Seine, across which we behold the in- viting places of the Champs Elys^es. We turn down the Quai d'Orsay, pass by the ma- jestic public buildings of the Minister of For- eign Affairs and the Chamber of Deputies, cross the Bridge de la Concorde and the Place of the same name, and proceed directly on- ward, through the Rue Royale, to the Church of the Madeleine, the most magnificent of the modern churches of Paris. Its exterior is in the style of a Grecian temple, like the Parthe- non, with columns running round an elevated platform. The bronze doors are said to be, next to St. Peter's at Rome, the largest in the world. The decorations of the interior are elaborate and gorgeous beyond description. Three cupolas let in the light from above, and PARIS. 227 rest on graceful arches supported by beautiful Corinthian columns. At the high altar is a group of statuary representing the Magdalen carried up to heaven on the wings of angels. The choir and chapels and ceiling are most richly ornamented with carvings and gildings and statues and frCvScoes. A very delightful and impressive walk is that from the Madeleine, through the Boule- vards of the Madeleine and the Capuchins, by the Grand Hotel, and around the whole cir- cuit of the Grand Opera-house. This last named makes a most magnificent architectural display, and exhibits on every side a multi- tude of sculptures, representing Poetry, Ora- tory, Music, and the like. The interior is cel- ebrated for its grand stairway and sumptuous halls, which are claimed to surpass anything of the kind in the world. Passing down the broad space in front of the theater, and pro- ceeding southwesterly along the Rue de la Paix, we soon come to the Place Vendome, and look upon the famous column, built in imitation of Trajan's Pillar at Rome, and designed to com- memorate the victories of Napoleon. We con- tinue our walk through this beautiful square, and turn to the left, down the Rue St. Honore, 228 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. to the Church of St. Roche, celebrated for its paintings, and also for the fact that on its steps, in 1795, Napoleon stationed his cannon and dispersed the Royalist Convention. Farther on we come to the broad places in front of the Palais Royal, and turn northward again to ad- mire the buildings and grounds of this historic structure. It was built and first occupied by Cardinal Richelieu, but it has since passed through many hands and many fortunes. It has been the residence of many royal persons; has been confiscated to the nation, and then again restored to roya],^ hands, only to suffer desecration again by revolutionary mobs. The garden of the palace is now a place of pop" ular resort, and the most elegant shops in Paris are located along the arcades which extend around the beautiful inclosure. In the even- ing the garden is brilliantly illuminated, the fountain and lime-trees add to the attractive- ness, and hundreds of idlers and pleasure- seekers are seen reveling in festivity and mirth. Just to the north of this garden is the Na- tional Library, the largest in the world. It numbers its volumes b}^ the million, and its treasures of manuscripts, curiosities, and works of art make it one of the most interesting PARIS, 229 places of the city to the antiquary and the student of history. Near the library is the Bourse, where the merchants and brokers as- semble daily for their work, and stir up as much noise, confusion, and excitement as can be witnessed in any other "Board of Trade/' The building is surrounded by a Corinthian colonnade, and at the corners are four statues, symbolizing Commerce, Industry, Agriculture, and Navigation. A short walk from the Bourse brings us to the Halles Centrales, a vast mar- ket which, when completed, will cover an area of over twenty acres. On the north side of this market is the Church of St. Eustache, where the funeral of Mirabeau occurred in 1 79 1, the *' Feast of Reason" was celebrated in 1793, and the ''Theophilanthropists" made their Temple of Agriculture in 1795. From this point we may follow the Rue de Turbigo, in a northeasterly direction, to the great industrial museum known as the Con- servatoire des Arts et Metiers. This was once a Benedictine Abbey, but now contains prob- ably the largest collection of mechanical in- struments in Europe. Farther on in this di- rection is the splendid square which was once called the Place du Chateau d'Eau, but now 230 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. the Place de la Republique. While in this part of the city, one may as well visit that most interesting of all the cemeteries of Paris, the Pere la Chaise. It occupies a considerable hill, and is laid out in avenues and winding walks, and ornamented with trees and foun- tains and monuments, some twenty thousand in number. Many of the monuments are ad- mirable specimens of sculpture, and many mark the last resting-place of men and women who have been famous in the history and lit- erature of France. One of the most interest- ing tombs is that of Abelard and Heloise, con- structed out of fragments of the Convent of the Paraclete, which Abelard founded in the twelfth century. Here, too, we may visit the graves of such masters of music as Herold and Bellini and Chopin; also of such men as ChampoUion the Egyptologist, Laplace the mathematician, Beaumarchais the dramatist, Cartellier the sculptor, Beranger the poet, and vScores of others equally famous. The soldiers' monuments and the private vaults and chapels will compare with those of any of the great cemeteries of the world. In returning from the cemetery we may drive through the Rue de la Roquette, and look PARIS. 231 on the prison of that name, in which con- demned criminals await the execution of their sentence, and where the guillotine is yet used in the execution of capital punishment. We follow the same street down to the Place de la Bastile, where once stood the prison of hor- rible celebrity. On its site now rises the beau- tiful Colonne de Juillet, one hundred and fifty- four feet high. From this point we follow the broad Boulevard Beaumarchais a short distance northward, pass through a side street to the left, and admire the beautiful Place des Vosges, with its fountains and equestrian statue of lyouis XIII, and continuing on through winding ways in this northwesterly direction, we reach the group of palatial buildings which contain the national archives. Into the various halls of this most interesting collection of documents the traveler should not fail to enter. Here is shown a model in stone of the Old Bastile. Here you may see the papers of the trial of Joan of Arc, and a portrait of the Maid as she appeared at the time. Here is to be seen, in a glass case, the famous Edict of Nantes, signed by Henry IV in 1598, and the Revocation of the same by Louis XIV in 1685. Numerous curious and interesting documents relating to 232 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, the French Revolution also attract the atten- tion of the visitor. In the immediate vicinity of the archives is the Imprimerie Nationale, an immense printing-establishment, which em- ploys about a thousand persons, and manufac- tures the type and paper used, as well as exe- cutes the printing and binding of books. All official documents of the Government are printed here. We have lingered so long among the charm- ing sights of Paris — and yet have taken only a partial and hurried glance — that we can no more than refer briefly to the delightful excur- sions which no traveler should fail to make to some half-dozen places within easy reach from the great capital. One of the shortest and most readily made is to the Chateau and Park of Vincennes, on the east of the city. This was once a royal residence, and not a few per- vSons of princely rank were born and died here. It was also used as a State prison, and such persons as Henry IV of Navarre, the Prince of Conde, and Count Mirabeau were confined within its walls. In the moat of this old cas- tle the Duke d'Enghien was shot, in 1804, by order of Napoleon. The park adjoining is PARIS, 233 known as the Bois de Vincennes, and is noted for its numerous delightful walks and drives- But far more interesting and extensive are the Palace and Forest of Fontainebleau, some thirty-seven miles southeast of Paris, and easily reached in less than two hours by rail. The immense palatial buildings with their sumptu- ous decoration, the gardens, and the vast forest of over forty-two thousand acres, are as mag- nificent in themselves as they are famous in their historical associations. It was in this palace that the Kmpress Josephine was di- vorced in 1809; and in one of the courts, after his abdication in 18 14, Napoleon parted from his Old Guard; and here, too, on his return from Elba, he reviewed the troops before marching into Paris. A short trip of about five miles directly north of the city brings us to the celebrated Cathedral of St. Denis. This should be vis- ited by all who are interested in the ecclesi- astical history of France, as well as by those who would look upon the burial-place of the older kings, from Dagobert, A. D. 638, to Louis XV, 1774. In this old church Henry IV, in 1593, renounced Protestantism ; and here, in 1 8 10, Napoleon was married to the Arch- 234 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. duchess Marie Louise. Another trip to the northwest of the city may embrace a vivSit to the chateau of Malmaison and St. Germain-en-Laye. The latter is thirteen miles distant, and was for a long time a summer residence of the kings of France. It is now celebrated for its museum of national antiquities, its splendid ter- race, which commands a charming view over the valley of the Seine and the adjoining forest, which is traversed by a great number and variety of shady walks. Malmaison lies about half way between this forest and the capital, and is memorable as the place where the Empress Josephine resided after her di- vorce from Napoleon, and where she died in 1 814. Her tomb, and that of Queen Hortense, her daughter, may be seen in the neighboring church at Rueil. But of all the places of note in the environs of Paris, the most celebrated and the most fre- quently visited is Versailles, about fifteen miles to the southwest. The most pleasant method of visiting this place is by private conveyance, and taking St. Cloud and Sevres on the way. The last named is famous as being one of the most notable porcelain manufactories in the world, and if one is specially interested in ex- PARIS. 235 amining the details of the works he will need a whole day for that alone. The ruins of the Palace of St. Cloud may be sufficiently seen in a few minutes, and a drive of an hour through the park will show its most admirable views. The Palace and Park of Versailles are full of objects of extraordinary interest. Whole floors and galleries, with almost innumerable halls and rooms, are filled with a collection of historical pictures and portraits and statues, which can hardly be surpassed by anything of its kind elsewhere. The Grand Gallery, in which King William of Prussia was proclaimed Emperor of Germany on January 18, 1871, is two hun- dred and forty feet long, thirty-five feet wide, and forty-two high, and commands, through seventeen great arched windows, the entire view of the palace gardens. Opposite the windows, in gilded niches, are seventeen mirrors, which reflect the beauties without and within, and the ceiling is ornamented with paintings of remarkable impressiveness. One needs whole days for any profitable study of such an immense collection. It al- most stupefies, not to say stultifies, an ordinary mortal to be rushed through such a universe of splendid sights. One should put on his best 236 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, good nature, and take his momentary glance, and pass on after his guide, and '* thank God that it is as well with him as it is." But one could almost wish to linger forever in the gar. dens behind the palace. The terraces, the fountains, the lakes, the groups of statuary, and the monuments afford a thousand and one sights of bewildering beauty. The Grand Tri- anon and the Petit Trianon, two handsome villas at one side of the great park, are lovely paradises. Near one of these we were shown a large collection of state carriages, exhibit- ing the different styles of vehicles used by the royal families during many generations. One gilded coach, constructed and used solely for the occasion of the baptism of the Prince Im- perial, is said to have cost $40,000. The Petit Trianon is redolent with the memory of the unfortunate Marie Antoinette, and the whole inclosure, with buildings, grounds, and costly decoration, is a monument of the extravagance and prodigal display of the French monarchy. Who can fail to see that such outlay of reve- nue, wrung from downtrodden millions, many of whom can scarcely find means to buy their daily bread, must sooner or later breed discon- PARIS. 237 tent, murmurings, rebellion, revolution, com- munism, anarchy? Beautiful France ! Fickle nation ! Land of the vine and of broad forests ! Many have been thy woes. The curse of Romish super- stition and bigotry, with its Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, and its Te Detnn over the Massacre of Bartholomew, is still upon thee ; and infidelity and revolution and anarch}^ are the natural retribution. When the marriage relation is better honored, when a pure home is loved more than the theater and the wine- saloon, when true religion is seen to consist in love to God and man rather than in sacra- mental rites and traditions, then, and not till then, may lya Belle France attain her most glori- ous possibilities, and become a veritable garden of the lyord. orrjapte XIII. UP AND DOWN THE RHINE. 'Y first tour of the Rhine began at Co- ,, logne, and I must not leave that city of Cd <^U^ many attractions without recording my impressions of its greatest monument, the most magnificent Gothic cathedral in the world. The first sight of it filled me with awe. Its towers, more than five hundred feet high, seemed to enter the very heavens, and the im- mense mass of ornamented marble rose like a vast mountain from the river-side. The main doorway is ninety-three feet high and thirty- one feet wide. I entered, and glanced along the nave and through the aisles, and felt at once a seUvSe of vavStness; but when I had walked around one of the columns, and found that it alone occupied a space almost as large as some of our smaller chapels, I began to realize the magnitude of this colossal church, and the vast interior grew upon me like a vision of an- other world. I shall make no attempt to de- scribe the details of this wonderful building. 238 UP AND DOWN THE RHINE. 239 Its foundations were laid in the year 1248, and its top-stone in 1880. The total cost has been estimated at $10,000,000. As the Rhine presents few attractions be- tween Cologne and Bonn, I went by rail to the latter city, and stopped there for a day to visit the university. The town itself is beautiful for situation, and a favorite residence of foreigners. The views of the river and the neighboring hills, and the shaded promenades are a never- failing attraction. Most of the university buildings were formerly the Palace of the Electors. They contain the library'of a quarter of a million volumes, numerous museums of art and antiquities, and the lecture-rooms. I entered one of these rooms, and found Professor Kamphausen lecturing to a class of eight or nine students on the Book of Genesis. At an- other hour I found my way to Professor Christ- lieb's lecture-room, and heard him for an hour on what he thought should constitute the subject- matter of evangelical preaching. Twice over he went rapidly through the Old and New Testaments, mentioning the chief persons and events, and suggesting in how many ways these might be used as topics of pulpit dis- course. 240 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. As we proceed by boat from Bonn, one of the first objects to arrest attention is the tower of the ruined Castle of Godesberg. Near by it are the ruins of a still older structure. Here we begin to note that which gives special interest to this famous river ; namely, the gray old monu- ments of the medieval time, and the legends and romance connected with them. Opposite this ruin, and further up the river, towers aloft "the castled crag of Drachenfels,^' nine hun- dred feet above the river. The boat glides along its base, and we look up its steep and frowning front, covered with low brushwood and vineyards, and see the opening of the Dragon's Cave, where Siegfried is said to have slain the monster, and bathed his body in the blood, which made him invulnerable. One wishes here to disembark, and make the tour of the seven mountains of which the Drachenfels is one; but we are only to see the Rhine by boat, and so move on against the rapidly-flow- ing stream, and next notice on the western shore one of the most romantic ruins of the Rhine, the Arch of Roland. I have alread}^ spoken of the Roland vStatues found in many European cities ; here we have a fragment of a castle said to have been built b}^ the famous UP AND DOWN THE RHINE. 24 1 knight. The legend connected with it seems to be a mixture of old traditions of the time of Charlemagne and those of the Crusades. As the common story goes, Roland was smitten with a passionate love for the beautiful Hilde- gunde, daughter of the Lord of the Drachenfels Castle, and that love was as passionately re- ciprocated. But Roland was summoned away to battle, wounded almost unto death, and the report came back to Hildegunde that her lover had been slain. The world had no more charms for her, and she at once entered the Convent of Nonnenwerth, on an island in the Rhine, a few miles south of the Drachenfels. But Roland recovered, and returned to seek the object of his love, and found that she had se- cluded herself forever from the world. There- upon he built a castle on a high rock, over- looking the island, and there spent the rest of his days watching the convent groundvS, and happy when, at times, he fancied he saw the fair form of his beloved Hildegunde going to the chapel at the hours of prayer. But one day he heard the tolling of the convent bell, and saw a funeral procession on the island ; after which he saw the beloved form no more. He pined away with a broken heart, and was 16 2Z12 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, found dead with his face turned in it3 last look towards the little chapel where he had so often seen her. All that now appears of the castle is this crumbling arch, standing apart in soli- tude as a monument of blighted love. As we proceed southward, and scenes of beauty open on every side, we need to keep our eyes continually turning up and down the river, and sweeping the banks and hills on either shore. At a graceful bend of the river we pass the village of Unkel, and observe the Apollinaris- kirche, with fine fagade and four towers, crown- ing a hill on the western bank, and are re- minded of one of the most notable ecclesias- tical legends of this river. Here, they say, came the vessel bearing the head of St. Apol- linaris, Bishop of Ravenna, on its way to Co- logne ; but when the boat reached a point op- posite the vsite of this church, it stopped in the middle of the stream, and, like a thing of life, resisted every effort to move it down the cur- rent until the holy head w^as taken on shore, and deposited on the mountain where the church now stands ! And now we pass the basaltic cliffs of Erpel, and see ivy-clad ruins beyond ; we come to the mouth of the Ahr, and the high walls of UP AND DOWN THE RHINE. 243 Sinzig heave in sight, and its handsome parish church, and the glimpse up the valley of the Ahr as far as the castled height of Lands- kron. Next we notice on the east the Castle of Arenfels, and chateaus, and towers and ruined piles become too numerous to mention in de- tail. At Rheineck, as at several other places, a fine new cavStle has taken the place of an old ruin ; but usually some relics of the more ancient structure are retained, as if to pre- serve from oblivion the memories of the past. The ruined Castle of Hammerstein, and the high watch-tower of Andernach attract ex- ceptional attention; then we come to Neuweid, near which, on opposite sides of the Rhine, the Nette and the Wied empty their waters from the heights beyond. Another old watch-tower looks down upon us from the west as we pass on from Neuweid, and at Engers some frag- ments of a bridge are thought to mark the spot where Caesar once crossed the Rhine. At Coblenz I disembarked, not willing to pass the lofty Ehrenbreitstein and the Moselle Valley without a more leisurely inspection. A short walk northward from the landing-place brings us to the old Church of St. Castor, founded in the ninth century, which is worthy 244 E AMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, of a visit because of its rich interior and his- toric monuments. We pass the fountain on the west, and proceed to the bridge over the Moselle, which rests on fourteen arches, and commands a fine view of all the surrounding heights. Returning, we follow the walks along the waters, and find the whole length of the promenade, from the Moselle to the great rail- way bridge over the Rhine, a most charming tour on foot. But I was bent on witnessing a sunset from the Fortress of Ehrenbreitstein. So, as even- ing drew on, I crossed the Bridge of Boats, and, missing the office at which cards of admission are obtained, I found the winding road which leads up the mountain, and walked on alone, admiring the varied outlooks and the well-con- structed highway to the fortress. At length I came to a guard of some five or six soldiers, who demanded my pass, and declared that it was not permissible for me to proceed farther without such a billet as could be obtained for half a mark at the foot of the hill. Vainly I pleaded that I had looked but failed to find the office where tickets were sold. Vainly I told them that I was an " Amerikaner," and would gladly pay them more than half a mark to be UP AND DOWN TtiE kHiNE. 245 allowed to pass on. ''Nein, nein," was the firm reply. But I urged that the sun would go down before I could return and procure a ticket, and then one main object of my ascent at that hour of the day would be lost. But all my pleading failed to produce effect, and I at length turned away in a great paroxysm of in- dignation and wrath, and walked rapidly down the road. I had not gone a hundred yards when I heard footsteps following me, and, look- ing around, I saw one of the soldiers, without his gun, hastening towards me, and beckoning me to halt. He came up, and, putting a small card in my hand, signed for me to return up the hill; but himself walked on down the mountain. I pondered a moment, and, return, ing to the guard, found them in mute and sol- emn position, more stately apparently than be- fore, as if nothing had occurred. I approached and showed my billet, which one of them took- turned it over several times as if suspicious that it might be wrong, and then, with a pecul- iar twinkle of the eye, handed it back, and mo- tioned me to pass on. And on I went, and came to the entrance of the fortress, where an- other guard met me, and asked for my billet. I gravely produced my card, and said that I 246 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, had come more than three thousand miles — even from Chicago, in far-off America — to see the sunset from Ehrenbreitstein. He received the ticket, and called a guide to conduct me about the fortress, and to show me all that I de- sired to see. We walked together to the verge of the precipitous rock, w^hence he pointed out and named the principal objects of interest. The scene was glorious beyond description. The Rhine flowed far below, and wx could trace its windings away to the south and to the north. The valley of the Moselle opened di- rectly in front, and far off towards the setting sun I admired the enchanting landscape, with its vine-clad hills, its wooded side-valleys, its picturesque ruins, and quiet villages. And then I thought of m}- home in a far land be- yond that beautiful landscape, and asked my soldier- guide about his home; but he had ''none to speak of." His home was in the barracks, and wherever orders called him. We watched the setting sun together. The whole horizon was lit up with a fiery glow, and the sun grew redder and redder as he sank behind the dis- tant hills. After the sunset the western sky took on an infinite variety of hues, and as the shadows gathered over hill and valley and UP AND DOWN THE RHINE. 247 river, the twilight was so protracted as not to seem like the coming on of night. I returned leisurely down the mountain, rewarded my ac- commodating soldier-friends mit Danken nicht ohne Geld, recrossed the Bridge of Boats, and found myself comfortably at my hotel before the long twilight had fully deepened into the darkness of night. When I awoke next morning the sun w^as beaming brightly on river and hillside. Again I walked out to view the charming scenery, and strolled down the Rhine Promenade, along the palace grounds, beneath the fine arches of the railway bridge, and on to the Island -of Oberwerth. There is something to interest the observer at every step. I lingered about these grounds until ten o'clock, and then re- sumed my journey by steamer up the river. Between Coblenz and Bingen we see the choicest portions of the Rhine. Castles and fine chateaus and old ruins look down upon us at every turn, and the swift-flowing river lends a charm to all. The Castle of Stolzenfels, re- stored and beautified in the earlier part of this century, is a striking object on the landscape. It rises nearly opposite the point where the lyahn empties its waters down from the eastern 248 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, hills, and commands a splendid view of the hills and valleys about it. Nearly opposite is the beautiful Castle of Lahneck, and a few miles south, rising over the city of Braubach, stands the grand old Castle of Marksburg. Be- yond this point the river takes a sudden turn, and fetches a circuit resembling an inverted letter g, at the farther end of which, passing Boppard on the right, we sail directly south- ward, and see, on the rocky cliffs above Born- hofen, the twin Castles of Sterrenberg and lyiebenstein, with which a legend is connected, more tender and romantic than that of the Roland Arch on the lower Rhine. We have noted that the name of Roland's affianced bride was Hildegunde, and the name of the heroine of lyiebenstein Castle is Hildegarde, so closely resembling it as to beget the suspicion that the two stories are varying forms of one and the same old legend. Hildegarde was the foster-child of the Lord of lyiebenstein, and the two sons of this lord fell into a like pas- sion of love for her, and each wished to make her his bride. But Henry, the younger, in great love for his brother, and with a delicate appreciation of the situation, took himself out of the way, and went on a Crusade to the Holy UP AIS/D DOWN THE RHINE. 249 lyand. The elder brother was thus left free to wed the fair maiden; and, in happy anticipa- tion of their marriage, and that he might have them always near him, the father builded on the neighboring height the CavStle of Sterren- berg for their future home. But the old knight died before the consummation of the marriage, and the nuptials were postponed for a time. During this period there came glowing reports of the heroism of the absent Henry; and his brother, growing restless at home, lost his af- fection for Hildegarde, and started off on a Crusade. Thus the maiden of Liebenstein was left alone in the great castle, and spent many weary days of watching and waiting for the return of her lover. When, at length, he did come back, he brought with him a Grecian bride; and the injured and heart-broken Hilde- garde withdrew from all public gaze, and con- cealed herself in a lonely chamber of the castle. After awhile the noble Henry returned, and discovered the outraged love of his foster- sister. He challenged his perfidious brother to single combat; but as they were about to rush into the deadly contest, Hildegarde rushed between them, and adjured them to desist from the miserable duel, and become reconciled. 250 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. She prevailed, and then hastened away to the convent at the foot of the castled rocks, and there secluded herself for the rest of her life from the gaze of the world. As if it were a retribution for his infidelit}^ to Hildegarde, the Grecian bride proved faithless to her husband, and forsook him. Then, in humiliation and self-reproach, he cast himself upon his brother's S3^mpath3^, besought his pardon and friendship, and secured a permanent reconciliation. But the light and joy of their lives had gone out, and they continued to live in gloomy retire- ment at the old Castle of Liebenstein, while the new one of Sterrenberg was left to fall into the ruin which it appears to-day. We passed along through many a beautiful curve of the river, amid many scenes that still live in memory as visions of a lovely dream. We remember the magnificent ruins of the Castle of Rheinfels, which lie nearly four hun- dred feet above the river at the handsome village of St. Goar. Just beyond we come to the lit- tle whirlpools playing over rocks which appear to be sunken in the middle of the stream, and on the left are the frowning rocks of Lurlei, four hundred and thirt}' feet high, beneath UP AND DOWN THE RHINE. 25 1 which, according to an old tradition, the treavS- ure of the Nibelungen lies concealed. The next point of notable interest, as we proceed southward, is the ancient town of Oberwesel with its old Gothic churches and the extensive ruins of the Castle of Schonburg. A little further south, on the opposite bank, we see the medieval walls of Caub, and the fine Castle of Gutenfels standing on guard above them. And so, as we pass onward, we observe castle after castle, tower after tower, ruin upon ruin. The Stahleck, and the Fiir- stenberg, and the Nollingen, and the Falken- burg, and the Rheinstein, have each a legend and a history, and the numerous side valleys that open to the east and the west appear charmingly romantic, and invite the pedestrian tourist to ideal realms. At length our little steamer passes through the rapid waters of the Bingerloch, and close along the little island of the " Mouse Tower," where the river takes a notable turn and is entered on the south by the waters of the Nahe. Opposite the mouth of the Nahe our attention is called to a rock that is mostly hidden by the water, but rises a few feet above the vSurface, and is marked with a 252 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. black cross. In this rock we are told the his- torian Voigt desired that his heart might be buried. His wish was granted, and the heart deposited in this urn of natural quartz, is sup- posed to retain its old sympathy with the beautiful river he had loved so w^ell. And now we touch at Bingen, "fair Bingen on the Rhine," and its ''vine-clad hills" and '' yellow sunlight " seem to welcome us to stop awhile. But we defer that joy, and pass on, looking at the wooded heights of the Nie- derwald, and the magnificent National Monu- ment, which has been erected in honor of the restoration of the German Empire. We see the beautful Castle of Johannisberg in the dis- tance, and sail on among delightful islands, and in sight of wildernesses of vineyard, until, as the sun is sinking behind the western hilltops, we disembark at the old historic city of Mayence. Mayence, German Mainz, like Cologne, is the city of a great cathedral. The vast struc- ture was begun in the tenth century; but having been repeatedly destroyed by fire, it has grown through the centuries, and received its finish- ing touches in our own day. In length it is even greater than the Cologne Cathedral, and far richer in monuments. One wanders about UP AND DOWN THE RHINE. 253 its aisles and transept and choirs and clois- ters, until he feels like a lost child in a vast wilderness. The tombs date from the thirteenth century onwards, and the mural paintings are rich and impressive. Passing out of the great brazen doors which bear inscriptions of the year 1135, we pass through the market-place into a broad square which is adorned with a fine statue of Gutenberg. It is one of the glories of Mayence that Gutenburg, the inventor of printing, was born there. The house in which his mother lived, and that of his first printing-office, are still pointed out. A Latin inscription on his monument declares that *'an art which was hidden from the Greeks and the Latins, was hammered out by the clever genius of a German; and now, whatever the ancients or the moderns know, they know not for themselves, but for all people." A short walk from this statue brings us to the site of the old Roman Camp, now known as the Citadel. Here we find a most interest- ing monument, a gray old mass of stone, said to have been erected by the Roman legions in honor of Nero Claudius Drusus, the illustrious conqueror of numerous German tribes, who here ended his brilliant career in 9 B. C. by 254 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. an accidental fall from his horse. The elect- oral palace, on the opposite side of the city, is now converted into a museum of antiquities and works of art. Its collection of Roman an- tiquities is said to be the most extensive in Germany. Among them the most conspicuous are ancient Roman altars and tombstones and various implements of war. In one room may be seen the figure of a Roman legionary in full uniform. Ma3^ence was my point of departure for visit- ing Frankfort, Darmstadt, Worms, Speyer, Hei- delberg, Carlsruhe, Strasburg, and Stuttgart. Of several of these cities I have already writ- ten, and of the others I will not stop to speak in detail. In Frankfort-on-the-Main I had a special interest, as an American Methodist, in visiting our Martin Mission Institute, a theo- logical school for the training of preachers for the ministry of the German Methodist Church. Here I found my good friend Achard and family, and felt peculiarly at home. He served me as a most efficient guide in looking through the principal sights of the city. Of all these, which are many and beautiful, that piece of art which lives in memory most freshly after UP AND DOWN THE RHINE. 255 years have passed, is Dannecker's marble group, known as '' Ariadne on the Panther." The Stadel Institute of Art is, like many other similar collections which I have had occasion to mention, a wilderness of beauty. Of course I visited the house in which Goethe was born, and saw his splendid monument in the Goethe- Platz, walked about the Romerberg, and ex- plored the historic halls of the Romer. I should make at least a passing mention of Speyer, or Spires ; for its ancient and imposing cathedral takes us back near to the tenth cen- tury, is magnificent in its dimensions, and con- tains the tombs of many a ro3^al personage. Here lie the remains of that Henry IV whom Pope Gregory VII excommunicated. Here, also, are the graves of Henry V, and Philip of Swabia, and Rudolph of Hapsburg, and Bea- trice, the wife of Barbarossa. Here Adolph of Nassau and Albert I of Austria, the bitter ri- vals, sleep together in the same vault. *' Ab ! how they slumber side by side, Like brother warriors true and tried, Those stern and haughty foes ! Their stormy hearts are still ; the tongue, On which enraptured thousands hung, Is hushed in long repose." 256 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, I should mention the magnificent Cathedral of Strasburg, which is also of great antiquity. Its spire is four hundred and sixy-five feet high, and its architecture without and within commands highest admiration. But probably the famous astronomical clock in the south transept attracts jnore visitors than all the architectural glories of the massive pile. A skeleton strikes the hours, and at noon each day a figure of Christ appears in a lofty niche, and from a side door the twelve apostles march out and pass before him. Peter with his key comes last, and just as he appears a cock, perched on a side tower, flaps his wings and crows. And these are only a few of the man)'' wonderful qualities of this remarkable piece of human mechanism. But I must leave these cities of the Upper Rhine, and turn my face once more towards the north. I journeyed one Saturday from Carlsruhe up to Mayence, and thence by rail to Bingen, with the purpose of spending one quiet Sunday close by *'the pleasant river," where I could hear its blue waters sweep along, and where I could rove at will over the vine- clad hills. I found excellent accommodation UP AND DOWN THE RHINE. 257 in the Hotel Victoria, and from my window could command a fine view of the river, and its broad valley, the landscape of the Niederwald, and the hills back of Riidesheim. Some may think it a strange taste that would prefer a rest at Bingen rather than at Wiesbaden, only a few miles distant. But I was not a patient nor an invalid, nor in search of mineral waters, either for drinking or for bathing. I chose rather to see the smoothly-gliding waters of the lovely Rhine, and repose awhile amid the sights of beauty which open to the tired traveler at the confluence of that river and the Nahe. During the day I wandered about the town, crossed over the bridges of the Nahe, strolled about the footpaths of the Castle of Klopp, and wandered all over the Rochusberg. I sat down and med- itated in many an arbor, and feasted my eyes on the bewitching views from the Rochus- capelle and the Scharlachkoph. When night came on I had obtained that perfection of physical and mental rest which is known only to a skilled pedestrian who can travel all day, and yet rest quietly, and linger at beautiful out- looks, and drink in the exhilarating tonic of a glorious day and a bracing atmosphere. I re- 17 258 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, tired that night to sleep mOvSt sweetly, dream- ing only of restful sights, and anticipating a happy to-morrow. My journey down the Rhine was given up to constant gazing. The steamer, floating with the rapid current, moves over the same dis- tance in half the time required to ply the other way. We dispense with all guide-books now, and simply gaze and admire. Having identi- fied the principal sights in the former journey, we readily recognize them now, and look upon them from different points of view. One should aim to see this river twice at least by a boat-journey. Then he can well afford to study his guide-book thoroughly on the first trip, and learn the name and history of the most nota- ble places and castles. But if he can make but a single tour, it is better to let maps and guide-books go, and simply look and appre- ciate the ever-changing landscapes. It is far more satisfactory in the end to have given all one's thoughts to those visions of beauty than to have lOvSt many a fine view by trying to learn the name of a town or castle which may be forgotten the next hour. Now castle after castle comes into sight; little towns suddenly burst into view, and then are hidden ; here the UP AND DOWN THE RHINE. 259 river makes a sudden turn, and then opens into what seems a lake with no outlet ; then we round a castled crag, '* And hills all rich with blossomed trees. And fields which promise corn and wine," and a long stretch of waters, greet the eye, and we glide onward, half intoxicated with the superabundance of bewildering beauty. We sweep along the base of precipitous cliffs which frown above us. Again we meet the watch- tower Pfalz, that rises on its ledge of rock out of the river as if to block our way ; again the heights of Ehrenbreitstein look down upon us; again we pass the Arch of Roland, and the Drachenfels, and beautiful Bonn ; and at length, more than gratified, and filled with memories of charming scenes, we land once more at Co- logne, and worship in its great cathedral. ar^aptBt XIV. IN THE NORTHLAND. WEAVING journeyed up and down the ^P Rhine, and gazed my fill upon its castled heights, and hillsides green with mingled forest, field, and vine, I felt a strong desire to see some portions of '' the Land of the Midnight Sun." I was quite content to omit the North Cape, if I might only see some choice portions of Southern Scandinavia. I stopped and rested a Sabbath day at the great commercial city of Hamburg, on the Elbe. The great harbor, or rather the multiplicity of har- bors, are filled with vessels from almost every country of the civilized world. Here is the immense Sandthor-Hafen, and close by it the Grasbrook-Hafen. And there are the Baaken- Hafen, and the Oberhafen, and the Brookthor- Hafen, and the Binnen-Hafen. But more attract- ive than these to the average visitor are the two great sheets of water known as the Binnen-Al- ster and the Aussen-Alster. One can take his stand on the Lombard Bridge, which separates 260 IN THE NORTHLAND, 26 1 these lakes, or anywhere along the neighbor- ing ramparts, and behold little steamers and rowing-boats without number plying to and fro. The banks are formed into beautiful prome- nades, and adorned with shade-trees, and over- looking them all are numerous palatial dwell- ings and some of the finest hotels of Germany. As in Bremen, the old fortifications extending round what was the former city have been laid out into public promenades, and afford delightful walks for young and old. Espe- cially fine is the outlook over the Nieder-Hafen from the Elbhohe, whence one can see for miles around the busy life and traffic, the masts and flags of hundreds of vessels going up and down the Elbe, or lying in the harbors. The Botanical and Zoological Gardens on the north- west of the city compare favorably with any in Europe ; and several of the churches, most of which are modern structures, will attract the attention of such as have not grown weary of looking at the usual ornaments and monu- ments of cathedrals. The educational inter- ests of Hamburg are represented in the Johan- neum, near the center of the city. Here are the gymnasium, and the college, and the library of some three hundred thousand volumes, and 262 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. the Museums of Natural History and of Ham- burg Antiquities. A little to the west of these is the Exchange Building, where brokers and merchants meet by thousands every day, and form as noisy a crowd as can be found in any similar place on earth. Next to London, Hamburg is said to have the largest money- exchange transactions in Europe. A short journey brought me from Ham- burg to the old medieval town of Liibeck. Passing from the railway station to the market- place, we noticed first the Holsteinthor, a fine old gateway of the fifteenth century. The city stands on a rising ground, and shows a number of interesting remains of former times; such as old walls and ramparts and tow^ers, and gates like the one mentioned above. It is rich in educational institutions of a popular character, and the churches of St. Mary, St. Catharine, St. Peter, and the cathedral afford peculiar attractions to students of medieval architecture. The first named is regarded as one of the finest specimens of a Gothic church in Northern Europe. The central nave is one hundred and twenty feet long, and, with the side aisles and the great transepts, presents a most imposing interior. The spires are over IN THE NORTHLAND. 263 four hundred feet in height. The Gothic Rathhaus in the market-place is equally re- markable, both for its exterior and interior vStyle and ornaments, its huge gables and lofty spires. The promenades outside the Burgthor afford many pleasing walks and views, and lead to the spot where the Prussian army, under Bllicher, fought so bravely to maintain their honor after the disastrous bat- tle of Jena, but were forced at last to sur- render. A night voyage of some fourteen hours took me from lyiibeck to Copenhagen, over an angry portion of the Baltic Sea. Early in the morning I got successfully through the custom-house (this was the thirteenth at which I had been required to pass examination since landing in Europe), secured the service of a competent guide, and proceeded to explore the various objects of interest in the beautiful Danish capital. Here one interested in the study of Northern antiquities would find a col- lection unsurpassed anywhere else. The fine buildings, old palaces, busy streets, inviting parks, and extensive shipping would also fur- nish so many different worlds of delight to persons of different tastes. I confess that al- 264 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, most my sole object in visiting Copenhagen was to look upon Thorwaldsen's greatest pro- duction, his sculptured '' Christ and the Apos- tles." These are kept, not in the " Thorwald- sian Museum," which contains only copies of the originals, together with various other fine works of art, and the great sculptor's grave, but in the '* Church of our Lady." The figure of Christ stands under a massive canopy back of the high altar, and those of the apostles are arranged in two rows, facing one another, six on each side of the nave of the church. The face of the Savior wears an indescribable ex- pression of tenderness and afi'ection, his head is turned slightly downward, and his hands are spread out as if to bid some one welcome to himself. Just in front of him, in the center of the altar space, kneels a beautiful angel, hold- ing up a baptismal font in the form of a large ocean shell. First, on the left, stands Peter, with the keys in his right hand, and his left hand holding up the skirts of his flowing robe. Next comes John, with heavenly countenance, a book and pen in hand, and an eagle at his feet. At his side is James, his brother, with a staff in his right hand, his left hand covered with a mantle, and a broad-brimmed hat hang- IN THE NORTHLAND, 265 ing on the back of his left shoulder. Next comes Andrew, the brother of Peter, with a cross in the shape of the letter X at his right side, and a roll in his left hand. At his side stands Judas Thaddeus, with his hands placed together as in prayer, and a battle-ax under his left arm and leaning against his left shoulder. Simon the Zealot is next, standing in easy repose, with hands crossed and resting on a saw. On the oppOvSite side of the nave, and facing Simon the Zealot, is Bartholomew, with a knife in his right hand, and holding up his robe in his left. Thomas is at his side, a carpenter's square in his left hand, and his right placed under the chin, with the index finger resting on his nose, as if in doubt. Next to him comes James Alphseus, with his head slightly turned, and looking over his left shoulder, while the hands are crossed in front, and resting on a staff. Philip holds a cross in his right hand, and the skirt of his robe in his left, and Matthew has a money-bag between his feet, as if late from the receipt of customs, or perhaps still there ; his right foot rests upon a stone, and he holds a tablet and pencil in his hands, as if in the act of writing. Judas Iscar- iot is not represented, but instead of him, as the 266 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, twelfth, Paul stands nearest to the right hand of Christ, with his own right hand and finger up- lifted and his left resting upon a sword. But perhaps even more impressive than the attitudes and attendant symbols are the expressions wrought upon the faces of these mute apostles. Here, in fact, are twelve gospels of Christ speaking from these silent monuments of mar- ble, and each representing a distinct experience and embodiment of the kingdom of God in the human soul. But I linger so long by these immortal works of genius that I have no great space to write about the wonders of the '' Land of the Midnight Sun," to which I journeyed after leav- ing Denmark. Twelve or more hours of toss- ing on the waves of the Cattegat brought me to the handsome and prosperous commercial city of Gothenburg, on the western coast of Sweden. My chief desire in this region was to visit the celebrated Falls of Trollhata, about fifty miles north of Gothenburg. These falls are said to be unsurpassed by anything of the kind in Europe, but I have to confess to a measure of disappointment at beholding them. They con- sist of a series of five or six cataracts, none of which are precipitous, and the highest of which IN THE NORTHLAND. 267 has a descent of less than fifty feet, and they are distributed over a distance of nearly two miles, and so broken into sections by rocks and islands and sawmills as to be without any sur- passing or sublime impressiveness. The quan- tity of water passing over them is perhaps two-thirds as great as that of the Horseshoe Fall at Niagara, but it is so divided and sent through different channels as to have none of the grandeur and sublimity of the great Ameri- can cataract. So I will leave these waters and hasten away to Stockholm, some three hun- dred miles to the northeast, by far the most beautiful and interesting spot I saw in Sweden. It is sufficiently near the midnight sun for sober and well-behaved mortals to go; for where one can read by daylight at ten o'clock in the evening and two in the morning, he ought to be content to sleep the intervening hours. So thought I, but nevertheless was somewhat at a loss to know when to go to bed and when to get up. The attractions of the Swedish capital are sufficiently numerous and varied to gratify tourists of all manner of tastes. Is one inter- ested in agriculture? Here is the Agricultural Museum, with its adjoining School of Median- 268 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. ics, and library, and collection of models. Is he fond of natural science? Here is the Geo- logical Museum, and the Fishery Museum, and the Museum of Natural History. Here, too, is an Artillery Museum, and a Medical Museum, and almost any number of public and private collections of art and industry. The North- ern Museum occupies several buildings, and is stored with Swedish, Norwegian, and Danish antiquities. Here one may see specimens of the weapons and tools, the chairs and beds and dresses, the pots and kettles and pans, the shoes and cradles, and canoes and coflins, of the an- cient Norsemen. The National Museum oc- cupies a magnificent building, and has its world of treasures arranged in departments. Its col- lection of Swedish antiquities fills six rooms. Its ceramic collection fills two rooms with nearly five thousand specimens of pottery and porcelain from many a land. The collection of sculptures fills nine rooms, and that of or- namental furniture five rooms. The picture- gallery occupies a whole floor of the immense building, and is rich in the works of ancient, medieval, and modern masters. In order to pay a visit to the Royal Palace we cross the bridge of seven handsome arches JN THE NORTHLAND, 269 to what is known as the Staden, the oldest part of the city. Here we have the opportunity of surveying the busy trafhc of the numerous rivers and harbors and quays. The palace occupies a rocky height of the island, and con- tains the usual series of magnificent apartments common to the houses of European kings. Here we are guided through all manner of highly-decorated saloons and audience-cham- bers and banquet halls ; we observe splendid staircases and rich cabinets and frescoed gal- leries, adorned with portraits of the great men of Sweden and masterpieces of Scandinavian artists. The old market-place near the palace has been the scene of many bloody executions. The Knights' House contains the armorial bear- ings of all the nobles of Sweden, and the por- traits of her most distinguished marshals. The Council Chamber of the City Hall is notable for its size and the historical antiquities it contains. A bridge near by it leads us to another island, on which rises the old church which serves now only as the burial-place of Swedish royalty. Here, in a huge sarcophagus of green marble, repose the remains of Gustavus Adolphus, who fell in the battle of Liitzen. Here I observed, also, the marble coffins of Charles XH, and 270 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, Frederick I, and Queen Eleonora. In the midst of these and many other royal tombs, one re- calls the lines of Gray: " The boast of heraldry, the pomp of power, And all that beauty, all that wealth e'er gave, Await alike the inevitable hour; The paths of glory lead but to the grave." No Spot in all my journeys afforded so many delightful excursions, both by land and water, as Stockholm. Scores and vScores of little steam-yachts are pl3dng in every direction. In two or three hours, at almost any part of the day or evening, one can sail ten or fifteen miles out among the innumerable islands of the Baltic and return ; or he may go in the opposite direction as far as he likes among the picturesque wooded and rocky islands and coasts of Lake Malaren. One of the most memorable of my day ex- cursions was a visit to Upsala, some forty miles to the northwest of Stockholm. Here is a famous Gothic cathedral, containing the highly-embellished vault of Gustavus Vasa, and also the tombs of many of Sweden's illus- trious dead. Here is the ancient university, founded in 1477, and now having over fifty professors and eighteen hundred students. I IN THE NORTHLAND, 27 1 was shown into the library, and permitted to examine the celebrated Codex Argenteus, a manuscript of Ulfilas' Gothic translation of the Bible, made in the fourth century of our era. Its one hundred and eighty-seven leaves of reddish parchment are written with gold and silver letters, and the whole is massively bound in solid silver covers. Upsala was the capital of the ancient kings of Sweden, and here the old paganism longest resisted the progress of Christianity. An hour's walk brings one to ''Old Upsala," where a large church is said to occupy the site of the heathen temple, and three huge mounds, over two hundred feet in diameter and nearly sixty high, are supposed to cover the ashes of an- cient kings. At Upsala the setting sun is in the north. The twilight falls gently on mounds and castle, and field and hill. I must hasten away to my native clime. Farewell, land of Eddas and Sagas ! My heart turns longingly to its sunset home beyond the western ocean. ar^aplBr XV. IN THE NETHERLANDS. gTTT^N my homeward way from Stockholm I " Syiy/ revisited Copenhagen, and strolled about '^ again through the attractive portions of the Danish city. Again I lingered and medi- tated among the apostles of Thorwaldsen's creation, and sought to learn from them some deeper lessons of the apostles of our Lord. Again I visited Liibeck and Hamburg, and ex- amined more carefully than before their va- rious sights and scenes. For the third time I visited Bremen, and spent some days in ram- bling again among scenes made familiar by previous observations. But before crossing over to Britain, I planned to see the chief cities of Holland and Belgium, and after a short jour- ney I found myself within the border of those historic lands. Utrecht. My first halting-place was Utrecht, prettily situated at the junction of two branches of the 272 IN THE NETHERLANDS, 273 Rhine. I found little in the city itself to deepen the impression of the stirring facts of her history. The cathedral, museum, picture- gallery, and court-house contain nothing of special interest to one who has become almost weary of looking at the multiplied treasures of this kind to be found in all the great cities of Europe. More interesting to me was the uni- versity, two hundred and fifty years old, with its thirty-six professors and five hundred stu- dents, and library of one hundred and twenty thousand volumes. What attracted my attention more than any of these things was the Dutch people them- selves, their habits, characteristics, and enter- prise. They seem to be busy as bees, diligent as ants, laborious as slaves, tireless as the waters of the great sea which roll and dash above them. Their cleanliness is proverbial. A genuine Dutch housekeeper goes through the process of house-cleaning once a week, and the washing and scrubbing and rubbing are applied to the outside of the building as thor- oughly as within. Many of the private houses are painted and ornamented in grotesque style, and bear signs at which most Americans would laugh. Thus, one bears the inscription, '* My 18 274 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. Pleasure and Repose;" another, ''Void of Care;" another, ''My Blessed Peace." Probably the first thing to attract a foreign- er's attention are the huge windmills, with sail-boards fifty and sixty feet long. These chiefly serve to pump the superabundant water out of the low grounds into canals, which carry it out into the sea ; but they are also employed to saw lumber, grind grain, and drive various kinds of machinery. About as numerous as the windmills are the canals, which seem to run about in every direction, both in the coun- try and in the cities. These, however, are seen to be a natural feature of a country which is in most parts many feet below the level of the sea. Dutch enterprise and heroism are no- where more conspicuous than in the fact that they have dared the ocean tides, and wrested a whole country from the legitimate dominion of the sea. Immense dikes have been constructed along the coast and the river-courses, and serve as huge mud-walls to stay the influx of the waters. One can stand near the sea, on the inside of one of these high barriers, and hear the threatening breakers dash and thunder on the opposite side, ten or fifteen feet above his head, in the netherlands. 275 Amsterdam. A railroad ride of about one hour took me from Utrecht to Amsterdam, the great com- mercial metropolis of Holland. This great city, like Venice, is built on piles deeply driven through yielding mud and sand into a more solid soil beneath, and is intersected in every direction with almost countless canals. The magnificent harbor, the immense docks, com- passed about with vessels great and small from all parts of the world; the busy market-places, the thronged streets, and the numerous fine buildings, are all replete with interest to the stranger from afar. The Botanic and Zoolog- ical Gardens are equal to anything of the kind in Europe, and the Ryks Museum is worthy of comparison with the great collections of art and industry in London, Paris, Berlin, Dresden, or Rome. Here one sees collections of old ar- mor, and trophies of some of the great battles '' whereof all Europe rang from side to side.*' The so-called ''ecclesiastical department" il- lustrates the development of church archi- tecture for a thousand years. Other rooms illustrate a similar development of secular ar- chitecture. The department of engravings con- 276 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. tains one hundred and fifty thousand plates, and hundreds of albums of complete series of the works of the great masters. The gallery of paintings occupies more than thirty rooms, and has among its numerous treasures Rem- brandt's most celebrated work, ''The Night Watch," which fills a ground of fourteen by eleven feet. HaarIvKm, Lkydkn, Rotterdam. Haarlem is only half an hour by rail from Amsterdam, and half a day is sufficient time to visit the great market, with its town hall and museum ; and great church, with the organ claiming to be the most powerful in the world; and the park, with its grand old beeches and delightful walks. The organ has five thousand pipes, some of w^hich are thirty-two feet long and fifteen inches in diameter. To me one of the most interesting of the old Dutch towns was Leyden, some seventeen miles from Haarlem. Not for its famous old State-house, nor its museums of antiquities and natural history, and other sights of which much might be written, was this city an object of desire to me, but for its world-renowned university, where such masters as Scaliger, Des- IN THE NETHERLANDS, 277 cartes, Grotius, and Arminius taught. Even the old burg, with its ancient Roman wall dat- ing from the early Christian centuries, seemed less impressive than a house near the univer- sity, which bore an inscription stating that on that spot John Robinson, the first leader of the Pilgrim Fathers, had lived, taught, and died. The library of this school contains over three hundred thousand volumes and nearly six thousand manuscripts. The walls of its " Sen- ate Hall" are covered with life-size portraits of the generations of distinguished professors whose names are as household words among the scholars of the world. I will not take space to write about The Hague, and Scheveningen, and Rotterdam, more than to say that these are, in the main, a repetition of what one finds in the other large cities of Holland. Scheveningen is the great Dutch watering-place adjoining The Hague, and famous for its fishing and sea-bathing. But it can not bear comparison with the beauty, comfort, and variety of interest which one finds at such places as Coney Island, Long Branch, and Ocean Grove. Rotterdam rivals Amsterdam, and nearly everything that interests the traveler in the 278 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, one city has its counterpart in the other. Its docks, dikes, harbors, shady walks, rich museums, world-wide commerce, and popula- tion of two hundred thousand, make it one of the notable cities of Europe. Here I was shown the house where Erasmus was born, and his fine monument in the great market-place. As the shadows of evening gathered over the busy, bustling town, I went out to the suburb of Delfthaven, where the Pilgrims embarked, in 1620, to find beyond the ocean a place of freedom to worship God. Here the same John Robinson, mentioned above, kneeled down on the shore, and invoked God's blessing on the devoted band. And that ship's company was not the only good thing that came of old from Holland to America. From these lowlands came the settlers of New York, and of the banks of the Hudson and New Jersey. And the lessons of industry and perseverance and fidelity to noble principles, which the people of Holland have taught the world, are many and undying. All honor to the little country of great heroes. American students of history can not afford to be ignorant of the land w^hich has produced such hOvSts of statesmen and jurists and warriors and painters and scholars IN THE NETHERLANDS, 279 in all departments of science and philosophy. Long live these cities of the plain, and may they never be submerged by the great deep, whose proud waves they have stayed ! Antwerp. The two chief cities of Belgium, which the foreigner desires above all others to see, are Antwerp and Brussels. The student of art comes to Antwerp thinking of it as the city of Rubens; the student of history associates it with the stirring events of medieval and modern wars; the man of business knows it as one of the notable seaports of Europe; and the great fairs which are held here attract thousands of merchants from all parts of the world. Here, too, is Belgium's great arsenal, and the mili- tary defenses of the city are such as to ena- ble it to maintain a long resistance to any be- sieging army that might attempt its reduction. But, like many other European cities, the glory of Antwerp is its great cathedral, five hun- dred feet in length, and about half as wide as it is long. Its elegant tower is the admiration of all beholders, and affords from its second gal- lery a most magnificent view over all the sur- rounding country. It contains a chime of a 28o RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, hundred bells, the largest of which weighs eight tons, while the smallest might be lifted and rung by a child. We enter, and look through its grand, imposing aisles, its vast nave, and broad transepts, and feel the same sense of awe and sublimity as in the Cologne Cathedral and St. Peter's Church at Rome. The dozen or more chapels are adorned with splendid monuments of sculpture and paint- ing, and the transepts contain the two great masterpieces of Rubens, the "Descent from the Cross," and the ''Elevation of the Cross." Before these productions of genius I saw groups of visitors lingering with a sort of worshipful gaze; and that sight of the lifeless body of Christ, held by Joseph and Nicodemus, the head hanging so helplessly on the shoul- der, is something that can not be easily for- gotten. The Sunday I spent in Antwerp was a day of Kermesse, and the streets were full of processions. In the afternoon of that day I witnessed a procession of the Virgin through the nave and aisles of the cathedral. A figure of the Virgin, richly adorned, was carried on the shoulders of priests, while, others in sacer- dotal dress, marched before and behind, carry- IN THE NETHERLANDS. 281 ing censers of smoking incense and chanting various prayers and hymns. Far richer in its monuments and decora- tions than the cathedral is the Church of St. Jacques, a kind of Westminster Abbey for the noblest families of Antwerp. Here is the gorge- ous chapel and tomb of Rubens ; here are altar- pieces, and stained-glass windows, and chapels filled with an excessive display of costly orna- mentation. The Church of St. Paul is also worthy of a visit, if only to study the artificial '' Mount Calvary," and " Holy Sepulcher," adorned with statues of patriarchs and proph- ets and various saints and angels. The Jes- uits' Church contains many beautiful monu- ments of art, and the house of Rubens, the Hotel de Ville, the Bourse, or Exchange, and especially the Museum, with its numerous sa- loons and hundreds of paintings, are all full of interest. The old house of the Printer Plantin, and his son-in-law Moretus, known now as the " Musee Plantin-Moretus," contains a curious store of antique furniture, oak-paneling, tap- estries, paintings, and the old printing-rooms and offices jUvSt as they were left by the former owners. The public parks and gardens, the wharfs and docks and immense w^arehouses. 282 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. are places well worthy of repeated examina- tion, but we must pass them by. BRUSSEI.S AND WaTKRI.00. More notable in many ways than Antwerp is the royal city of Brussels, the capital of Bel- gium. All the world has heard of Brussels carpets and Brussels lace. The place also has distinction for the manufacture of various other fabrics, and articles of gold, silver, brass and iron. Here many of the best mathematical and surgical instruments are made, and Brussels clocks and lamps are a specialty. The tourist who would see most of this in- teresting city in the shortest time should first walk or ride the whole length of the great boulevards, which run in a sort of belt-line around the inner city, and within view of many of the principal sights. These boulevards oc- cupy the site of the old ramparts, which were leveled down to this present form and purpose about the beginning of the present century. One of the first buildings to attract attention is the splendid Palace of Justice, built some- what after the fashion of the old Assyrian pal- aces. It rises from a base of nearly six hun- dred feet square, and each successive story IN THE NETHERLANDS. 283 diminishes in size. The upper section is sur- rounded with beautiful columns, and supports a rotunda embellished with symbolic figures of Justice, I^aw, Power, and Clemency, above which is a dome surmounted by a gilded cross. The inner courts and apartments are in keeping with the magnificent exterior. This immense structure looks down the Rue de la Regence, which leads northeasterly to the great park. As we thus approach the park we pass through the Place Royale, and note the Church of St- James on the right, and the fine equestrian statue of Godfrey de Bouillon in front of it. This statue is said to occupy the spot where Godfrey exhorted the Flemish people to enter upon his great Crusade. The park is a most attractive place, adorned with fountains and sculptures, and surrounded by imposing pal- aces and public buildings. A few steps to the northwest rises the cathedral, which may be said to have been more than six hundred years in building. Its rich interior, beautiful stained- glass windows, elaborately-carved pulpit, and numerous paintings and sculptures, make it more a museum of art than a place of worship. A few steps to the southwest of the park is the Royal lyibrary, with its hundreds of thou- 2^4 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, sands of volumes and rare treasures in manu- scripts, engravings, and coins. The great pic- ture-gallery adjoining is one of the richest of its kind in Europe. In the same building are the Natural History collection and the Mu- seum of Sculpture. But the spot of greatest historical interest in Brussels is the Grande Place, near the cen- ter of the city, a fine old square, upon which rises the famous Hotel de Ville. In this open market-place many a lordly head has fallen by the ax of the executioner. Here, in the spring of 1568, twenty-five Netherland nobles were executed by order of the cruel Duke of Alva. The somewhat irregular building known as the Hotel de Ville contains a series of sumptu- ous apartments, decorated wath portraits and mural paintings and tapestries and curious carvnngs. The tower rises to a height of three hundred and seventy feet, and commands an extensive view of the entire city and the country round about. By means of a good glass the battle-field of Waterloo can be clearly seen in the distance. I will not stop to mention other notable buildings, or attempt to describe the splendid walks and drives around the cit3% nor even the IN THE NETHERLANDS. 285 Manikin Fountain, and his divers suits of clothes. I will only add a brief account of my visit to the famous battle-field. Leaving my hotel early one morning, I went by rail to the station Braine I'Allend, which is a little more than a mile from the place of the battle. I there employed a guide, and with him trav- ersed on foot all the principal parts of the bat- tle-field. We began at the Chateau of Hougo- mont, and passed northward beyond the great Lion Mound to Mont St. Jean, and thence down the road to La Haye Sainte, Belle Alli- ance, and Plansenoit. After having obtained from the guide all the assistance I desired, I dismissed him, and, ascended the Mound of the Belgian Lion, and, with maps and plans of the battle, studied leisurely the history of that memorable conflict of June 18, 1815. Later in the day I strolled again to and fro over the field, and meditated upon the fortunes of war. I hardly felt that I was ''treading on an em- pire's dust," and am yet slow to believe that the triumph of the allied armies that day either secured any permanent ''peace of Europe," or advanced the best interests of mankind. From Brussels to Ghent is an easy tour by rail; and here we must stop, if only for half a 286 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, day, to look over some portions of this city of many revolutions. It covers an area of nearly six thousand acres. We go first to the famous old belfry, surmounted by its great, gilded dragon, nearly ten feet long. We ascend its hundreds of vSteps to the gallery, whence one obtains a glorious outlook over city and coun- try for miles and miles around. The Cathe- dral of St. Bavon is noted for its splendid chap- els and abundance of treasures of art, the most famous of which is John and Hubert Van Eyck's painting of the "Adoration of the Lamb." There are many other churches which invite our stay, and museums stored with cu- riosities, and grand squares and public build- ings, which we pass rapidly, and stop only to look at the mavSsive old gateway of Oudeburg, the remnant of the old palace where ''John of Gaunt" was born, and then speed away to Bruges. This city of many bridges affords the trav- eler a repetition of sights quite similar to those of Ghent. Its famous belfry, of which Long- fellow has sung so sweetly, is over three hun- dred feet high, and holds a chime of forty-eight bells. Happy he who can ascend that tower "when the summer morn is breaking," and IN THE NETHERLANDS. 287 look out on the charming scene below, ''hear the heart of iron beating," and the chimes ringing their changes every fifteen minutes, — *'Like the psalms from some old cloister, when the nuns sing in the choir, And the great bell tolls among them, like the chant- ing of a friar." But I must bid farewell to the Netherlands^ with all their wealth of art and beauty, their monuments of renown, and busy, bustling life. I pass on to Ostend, hasten on board the little steamer, and sail over the wild North Sea to Old England, my honored Fatherland. (EFraptEr XVI IN ENGLAND. FIRST stepped on English soil at Dover. The great pier, which in recent time has ^^ been constructed at this port, extends two thousand feet into the sea, and affords safe and quiet anchorage for vessels when the waters beyond it are wild with storms. The ancient castle commands the lofty chalk cliff and the deep valley, as it has done for a thou- sand years. But I had no mind to stop long in that old town. I took the first train for Can- terbury, and there alighted, found comfortable quarters in the Fountain Hotel, and soon walked out to look upon the venerable and historic cathedral. The associations of four- teen Christian centuries gather about this massive pile. Here we think of St. Augustine, who, in the latter part of the sixth century, was its first archbishop. Here recur memories of the great monk, St. Dunstan ; the great theo_ logian, Anselm, and the great Churchman, Thomas a Becket. The Archbishop of Canter- 288 IN ENGLAND, 289 bury, as is well known, is ''primate of all Eng- land, metropolitan, and first peer of the realm.'* It is part of his office to crown the sovereigns of England, and his rank is second only to that of king. He wields an immense patron- age, and has an annual income of $75,000. This great church has been builded, and re- paired, and enlarged, and rebuilt in portions, and adorned by one and another, through the passing centuries. We were politely shown through all parts of the mighty structure, and down into the crypts. The spot in the north transept where Thomas a Becket was slain is marked by a metallic star in the pavement. Among the numerous monuments are those of the '* Black Prince," and Henry IV, and Car- dinal Pole, and Archbishop Langton, who was the author of the chapter divisions of the Bible. During the Huguenot persecutions of the sixteenth century a colony of the French exiles found a refuge from persecution in this old town, and their descendants are to this day permitted to occupy one part of the cathedral as a place of worship. Early one morning I walked out to the St. Martin's Church, built in part of Roman brick, and said by some to date back to the second ^9 290 RAMBLES /A THE OLD WORLD. century. It seems half buried in the hillside, and its upper portion is covered with a thick growth of ivy. Near this old structure I found the grave of Henry Alford, once Dean of Can- terbury, and author of the well-known Greek Testament with Notes. He is said to have often stood upon the spot where he is buried, and looked from thence over the beautiful land- scape, and the great cathedral rising in the midst of the city, and expressed a desire that his ashes might be allowed to repose at last beneath that consecrated soil. London. I arrived in London about ten o'clock one morning, went to Charing Cross, and read up an accumulation of letters that were awaiting me ; took the top of an omnibus, and rode through the Tottenham Court Road; secured satisfactory lodgings in Woburn Place, some ten minutes' walk from the British Museum; returned to Trafalgar Square, and glanced through the principal rooms of the National Gallery; walked thence to Westminster Abbey, and made the tour of all its aisles, transepts, and royal chapels ; found there a friend whose cousin was at the time a member of the House IN ENGLAND, 29 1 of Commons, and with him went over and ob- tained admission to the gallery of the House, and observed the proceedings as long as I cared to; and then returned to my lodgings at an early evening hour, after having also taken a leisurely stroll about Russell Square. This in- troduction to the great metropolis was only de- signed to test my capacity for sight-seeing and pedestrian endurance! Having proved these to satisfaction, I retired to rest with bright an- ticipations of the morrow. I had desired to see lyondon more than any other city of the world. Its great sights and treasures were very familiar to me from pictures and from reading, I knew just where I wanted to go and how to get there without a guide. I had been long prepared for this, and now my hour of delight- ful realization had come. But it has seemed to me ever since that first bright day in lyondon that I made a mistake in not visiting that great city before I had seen the famous cities of the Continent and their in- numerable treasures of art and industry. I was full to overflowing with vivid recollections of great churches and temples and picture-galler- ies and museums and zoological gardens and palaces and lordly streets. But here, in one 292 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, great city, it seemed for the time that British enterprise had gathered what not only equaled, but surpassed, all that I had seen elsewhere, even if all were put together. These were in- deed a fiiiingjftnale or climax to the rest; but they were less impressive to me than they would have been had I seen them before I saw the sights of the Continent. Westminster Ab- bey and St. Paul's and the Tower were shorn somewhat of their power to overwhelm by reason of previous gazing on many ancient European castles, and such cathedrals as those of Antwerp, Cologne, Mayence, Speyer, and Milan. But what may have been a loss to me in my own first impressions may be a gain in the writing of these souvenirs of travel. It excuses me from attempting any extensive de- tail of the objects of interest which all tourists visit in London. Those who wish a guide- book and specific information will turn to such helps as Baedeker's *' Handbook" and Hare's "Walks in London." My purpose is only to record some personal recollections and general impressions of memorable places. The three places which, above all others in London, remain fixed in memory, are West- minster Abbey, the Tower, and the British IN ENGLAND, 293 Museum. No language can adequately de- scribe the feelings of solemnity and awe with which I entered, for the first time, the vener- able Abbey, which covers the remains of so many of England's mighty dead. Nor did this feeling wear off with repeated visits; it seemed rather -to grow deeper and more impressive with every return. I had no desire for attend- ants here. I chose to be alone, and was an- noyed at any interruption that reminded me that I w^as only one of hundreds of visitors. " O let me range the gloomy aisles alone, — Sad luxury ! to vulgar minds unknown, Along the walls where speaking marbles show What worthies form the hallowed mold below; Proud names, who once the reins of empire held, In arms who triumphed, or in arts excelled; Chiefs graced with scars and prodigal of blood, Stern patriots, who for sacred freedom stood; Just men, by whom impartial laws were given. And saints, who taught and led the way to heaven." I had no ambition to see everything. I probably failed to see many objects which oth- ers regard of prime interest. I was myself surprised, after having visited ''Poets' Corner" for a dozen times, and while listening, of a Sunday afternoon, to a sermon by Canon West- cott, to find myself sitting upon the stone slab 294 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. which covers the grave of Charles Dickens, — a tomb which I had not observed before. But my preference was to see leisurely what I did see, and allow full sway to private feeling and meditation. The royal chapels and mausoleums are a solemn reminder that death levels the regal brow to the same domain of dust in which the poorest make their last repose. The chapel of Henry VII is almost a miracle in stone. Washington Irving once wrote of it, saying: ''Stone seems, by the cunning labor of the chisel, to have been robbed of its weight and density, suspended aloft as if by magic, and the fretted roof achieved with the won- derful minuteness and airy security of a cob- web." Profoundly expressive of the vanity of human rivalry are those chief tombs in the north and south aisles, which cover the bones of Queen Elizabeth, the child of fortune (as the world would say), and Mary Stuart, Queen of Scots, the child of misfortune. The chapel of Edward the Confessor, and the iron-bound stone coffin in which his body lies, constitute a sort of holy of holies in the great Abbey ; and here is kept the coronation chair, under the seat of which is inclosed the ** fatal stone of Scone," on which the ancient Scottish kings IN ENGLAND. 295 were crowned. All the sovereigns of England, since Edward I, are said to have been crowned in this chair. The transepts and the vast nave of the cathedral contain perhaps as many cen- otaphs as tombs. The Tower of London begets a set of emo- tions altogether different from those one ex- periences in Westminster Abbey. The moat and ramparts and towers and walls and gates and courts and prisons and stores of armory are not things of beauty. The associations of the place are chiefly those of war, cruelty, treason, and various crimes, horrible execu- tions, broken hearts, and tears of woe. Most visitors rUvSh to look at the crown jewels, which are here kept on exhibition. Many linger in the galleries, where is preserved a vast collec- tion of ancient and medieval suits of armor. Others visit with mournful interest the prison- cells of the Beauchamp Tower, and seek to decipher the inscriptions on the walls made by the unhappy victims of jealousy or justice. In the yard before this tower a stone marks the spot where Anne Boleyn, Catharine How- ard, and Lady Jane Grey were beheaded. Close by is the chapel and cemetery where the bodies of these and other victims of the block were 296 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, buried in undistinguished graves. "There is no sadder spot on earth than this little ceme- tery," wrote Macaulay. ''Death is there asso- ciated, not, as in Westminster Abbey and St. Paul's, with genius and virtue, with public veneration, and with imperishable renown; not, as in our humblest churches and church- 3'ards, with everything that is most endearing in social and domestic charities, — but with whatever is darkest in human nature and in human destiny; with the savage triumph of implacable enemies; with the inconstancy^ the ingratitude, the cowardice of friends; with all the miseries of fallen greatness and of blighted fame." It is with entirely different feelings that we enter the vast rooms and examine the marvel- ous treasures of the British Museum. Here we see the records and monuments of ages and of empires. Turning to the left as we enter, we first come to a series of rooms stored with Roman and Graeco-Roman antiquities. Busts and sculptures meet our gaze on every side ; but we pass along to take a rapid survey, and obtain the general impression of the.se vast collections as a whole. We soon come to the great hall of the Elgin marbles, and look with IN ENGLAND. 297 admiration and sorrow upon these masterpieces of Phidias, which were once the boast and glory of Athens. We linger before that won- derful frieze which formerly adorned the Par- thenon, and almost fancy we are marching up the old Acropolis with the festive procCvSsions of twent3^-three hundred years ago. But we pass into other rooms, and find whole galleries of Assyrian monuments, brought hither from the valley of the Tigris. Here we look upon the famous monolith of Shalmaneser, and the sculptured triumphs of Sennacherib, and the co- lossal winged bulls and lions. Adjoining these are three great rooms of Egyptian antiquities, in one of which we see the celebrated Rosetta stone, which served as a key to the hieroglyph- ics inscribed upon the monuments and temples of the Nile. What a bewildering accumula- tion of ancient treasure! One thinks of Haw- thorne's words, and almost sympathizes with him for a moment when he writes: '*It quite crushes a person to see so much at once; and I wandered from hall to hall with a weary and heavy heart, wishing (Heaven forgive me !) that the Elgin marbles and the frieze of the Parthenon were all burnt into lime, and that the granite Egyptian statues were hewn and 298 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. squared into building-stones, and that the mummies had all turned to dust two thousand years ago." But such a sense of weariness and oppres- sion, if it come over one at the first hasty in- spection, will give way to a nobler feeling as we come again and again, and more leisurely study these silent witnesses of ancient times. This is a large and old world we live in, and one of the greatest faults of each new genera- tion is to forget or ignore the lessons to be learned from predecessors. History repeats it- self, but the masses of each new period seem to think that they alone have the superior wisdom. In other parts of this immense museum we find vast collections of old and curious books, the autographs of hundreds of the most fa- mous men and women of Europe, and almost countless relics of medieval times. The circu- lar reading-room, lighted from the dome, ac- commodates three hundred and sixty readers at one time, and each reader is supplied with a separate desk and all necessary facilities for study. He has free access to the reference li- brary of some twenty thousand volumes in the room, and can call for any book or manuscript IN ENGLAND. 299 of the catalogue, and a servant will bring it to his desk. ''This department," wrote a friend, some years ago, " is the crowning glory of this w^onderful institution. As it was the first ob- ject of interest to me on entering London, so it is the one to which I aspire most to come, that I may spend in it at least one studious and thoughtful year before I die." Having now spoken briefly of the three most memorable places of interest in London, I shall not detain my reader with detailed ac- counts of my visits to the Zoological Gardens and Hyde Park and the South Kensington Museum, all worthy of comparison with any other places of the kind in Europe, and in many things surpassing all others. The Crys- tal Palace, at Sydenham, afforded a day of ex- quisite delight, and I could have wished to make many another journey thither. Again and again I visited magnificent St. Paul's, and climbed to J:he lofty dome, and tested the whis- pering gallery, and descended the solemn crypt, and mused beside the massive sarcophagi of Wellington and Picton and Nelson. Not less impressive was ancient St. Bartholomew's Church, and its arched gateway, and the open space before it where the " Smithfield martyrs" 300 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. sealed the truth in fire and blood. Nor did I fail to visit St. Giles, and drop a patriot's tear at Milton's tomb; or go into St. Sepulcher's Church, and look upon the foot-worn stone that covers the bones of '' Captain John Smith," of Virginia fame. Still less could I forget '' the Puritan Necropolis," and no memories of Lon- don are more quietly impressive than those hours I spent in Bunhill Fields b}^ the graves of John Bunyan, Susannah Wesley, Isaac Watts, Daniel De Foe, Nathaniel Lardner, Thomas Goodwin, John Owen, and Daniel Neal. Least of all can I, as a Methodist, for- get the historic " City Road Chapel," just across the street from Bunhill Fields. There I wor- shiped on two successive Sundays, and had the honor and delight to preach in that old pul- pit, consecrated by the presence and ministry of John and Charles Wesley, Adam Clarke, Joseph Benson, Richard Watson, Jabez Bunt- ing, and William Morley Punshon. Most of these now lie buried in the graveyard behind the chapel, and the tributes to tli^ir worth in- scribed upon their tombstones engage the eyes of hundreds of interested visitors every year. For an Englishman, there is no city of the world like London. The streets, the bridges, IN ENGLAND. 30 1 the river and its traffic, the underground rail- ways, the manufactories, the wealth and the poverty, the prisons and the hospitals, the banks and great trading-houses, the toiling masses, the crimes and the public charities — these all arrest the attention of the observant traveler as well as the continuous resident, and fill the mind with various thoughts. But we can not entertain them now. Excursion to Windsor. One September morning I took an early train of the Great Western Railway from Lon- don to Slough, and thence proceeded by car- riage a few miles northward to Stoke Pogis. Here are the quiet graveyard, and the old church and '4vy-niantled tower," made so fa- mous by Gray's '* Elegy:" " Beneath those rugged elms, that yew-tree's shade, Where heaves the turf in many a moldering heap, Each in his narrow cell forever laid. The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep." And now the poet himself sleeps among them. His grave is but a few feet from the church, and a monument has been erected to his mem- ory in the neighboring park. Returning to Slough, and passing on south- 302 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, ward, we observe the fine buildings and grounds of Eton College, where the sons of English royalty are trained, and a little further on we come to the beautiful hill on which stands Windsor Castle. This magnificent royal residence consists of a vast group of buildings begun as far back as the time of William the Conqueror. One por- tion has been made to give place to another, and the whole has been from time to time re- newed or restored, until now the castle is quite a city itself. The portions usually open to vis: itors are the State Apartments, the Round Tower, the St. George's Chapel, and the Albert Chapel. In the first named w^e pass through a series of sumptuous rooms adorned with tapes- try and paintings and collections of old armor, and other objects of interest. The Queen's audience-chamber, the guard-chamber, and the grand reception-room, are particularly impress- ive. The Waterloo Chamber is a vast dining- room nearly one hundred feet long and almost half as broad, and profusel}^ ornamented with portraits of distinguished men. The Tower is chiefly memorable for the extensive view it affords of the beautiful country for many miles around. The interior of St. George's Chapel IN ENGLAND, 303 is gorgeous beyond description, and that of the adjoining Albert Chapel is a splendid memorial of her husband by the reigning Queen Victo- ria. In vaults beneath these costly chapels re- pose the bodies of Henry VIII and his wife, Jane Seymour; Charles I, George III, George IV, William IV, and the Princess Charlotte. Oxford. One of the most delightful days I spent in England was an August Monday, which passed all too rapidly while I made a tour of the streets and walks and colleges of Oxford. A clerk of Queen Elizabeth is credited with the saying : '' He that liath Oxford seen, for beauty, grace. And healthfulness, ne'er saw a better place ; If God himself on earth abode would make, He Oxford, sure, would for his dwelling take." The first views of this university city, as we approach from I^ondon, are peculiarly charm- ing. The streams of water, the open meadows, the hedge-rows and woods, and especially the spires and towers and domes of the various buildings, present a picture of unsurpassed magnificence and beauty. As we enter the town from the railway station, >\^e note that 304 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. the main streets are laid out in graceful curves. The various buildings of the university are scattered over hundreds of acres, and present to the eye a pleasing variety of architectural styles. There are more than twenty distinct colleges, and most of them were founded be- fore the time of the Protestant Reformation. I proceeded first to the magnificent Christ Church College, ascended the tow^er, and looked upon the famous bell known as "Great Tom." I was kindly shown into the old kitchen, which remains as it w^as in the time of Wolsey, and my attention was called to an ancient gridiron, about four feet square, which was moved on wheels. I was also permitted to look into the spacious dining-hall, richly ornamented with armorial bearings, and examine the bay-win- dow so famous for its splendid heraldic illumi- nation. The cathedral near by is notable for its old historic associations, its various chapels and imposing tombs. A short walk from this point by Corpus Christi and Oriel Colleges leads to the church of St. Mary the Virgin, which is as interesting as any of the colleges. The Bampton Lectures and the Lenten and University Sermons are preached here. It was in this church that Cranmer abjured popery. IN ENGLAND. 305 Following High Street eastward, we reach Magdalen College, noticeable in the distance for its imposing tower. The fine quadrangle and cloisters, the old stone pulpit in the corner, the chapel, the library, the kitchen, and the ancient armory, are exceptionally interesting. The adjoining groves and shady avenues, and particularly that known as ''Addison's Walk," are delightfully inviting, both for retirement and variety of scenery. The other most mem- orable places of interest are New College, noted for a tower in which Protestant martyrs were once imprisoned, and for bells of sweet- est harmony, and illuminated windows of sur- passing splendor; the Bodleian I^ibrary, with its numerous curiosities and treasures; Keble College, worthy of a visit if only to look upon ''the lyight of the World," the grand painting of Holman Hunt ; and Balliol College, in front of which Cranmer, Latimer, and Ridley were burned at the stake. The Martyrs' Memorial near by this vSpot, is a monument worthy of the men who, as the inscription says, "yielded their bodies to be burned, bearing witness to the sacred truths which they had affirmed and maintained against the errors of the Church of Rome, and rejoicing that to them it was given 20 306 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. not only to believe in Christ, but also to suffer for his sake." I may add, for my Methodist readers, that I did not fail to visit Lincoln Col- lege, and look into the rooms where John Wesley resided, and met the '' Holy Club," when he was a fellow and member of this es- tablishment. One day is altogether insufficient for a satis- factory visit to Oxford. One who can best appreciate it wishes to stop here for many years. Most of the old distinctions between wealth and poverty have been abolished. The constitution of the university is a study in itself, and the terms, courses of study, lectures, methods of instruction, and conferring of de- grees have peculiarities differing in many re- spects from the usages of all other schools and colleges. Stratford-on-Avon. Two and one-half hours by rail brought me from Oxford to the birthplace and home of Shakespeare. Out of respect for my country- man, Washington Irving, I ''put up" at the Red Horse Hotel, where he once lodged ; but I was soon out to see the house in which the great poet and dramatist of England was born. IN ENGLAND. 307 The room in which he first saw the light is still pointed out, the quaint fireplace witnesses its own antiquity, and a collection of Shakes- pearean relics and curiosities is kept on exhi- bition. The poet's grave is in the chancel of the Stratford Church, and covered by a plain stone-, with the following inscription : " Good friend, for Jesus' sake forbeare To digg the dust enclosed heare : Blest be the man that spares these stones, And curst be he that moves my bones." On the wall above, as if keeping guard, is the monumental bust, which has been copied a thousand times, and is believed to be the most faithful representation of Shakespeare's face now extant. His wife and two daughters are buried by his side. Early one morning I arose and walked over to Shottery, about a mile distant, the home of Anne Hathaway be- fore she became the wife of Shakespeare. Over those same fields the poet often passed on his visits to Anne's home. The thatch-roof cot- tage, where the young maiden lived, is still pointed out, and looks, for all the world, outside and inside, old enough to silence any skepti- cism as to its identity. 3o8 rambles in the old world, Warwick and Kknii^worth. From Stratford I went to Warwick, and passed through the principal rooms of its an- cient castle, which is pronounced by Sir Wal- ter Scott ''the fairest monument of ancient and chivalrous splendor which yet remains unin- jured by time." From this point I passed over by carriage through beautiful scenery to Ken- ilworth Castle, where, in 1575, Robert Dudle}^ Earl of I^eicester, entertained Queen Elizabeth for seventeen days at a co.st of $5,000 a day. The old castle is only a stately ruin now, but one of the most picturesque in the world, and is visited every year by hundreds of artists, and thousands of tourists. Rugby and Bedford. From Kenil worth I journeyed to Rugby, and was kindly shown through the famous school where Thomas Arnold was once head master and taught so man}^ a ''Tom Brown." I spent an hour wandering among the inviting gardens of Bilton Hall, where Addison once lived. From Rugby I went b}^ rail to Bedford, and slept and dreamed one night within a few rods of the site of the prison where Bunyan IN ENGLAND, 309 wrote the Pilgrim's Progress. The next morn- ing I walked down to Elston, and entered the humble cottage in which he was born. I re- turned and sought out the Baptist Church of which he was once the minister, and was shown his chair and one of the doors of his old prison. The times have changed, and all the Knglish world now venerates and loves the name of the humble preacher of righteousness who suf- fered so much persecution here. A fine bronze monument, erected by the Duke of Bedford, adorns one of the public places of the town, and represents Bunyan in the attitude of one pleading for men to be good; his eyes are lifted upward, and the face beams with an in- effable earnestness of expression. Cambridge. From Bedford I went to Cambridge, and made the tour of its seventeen colleges. It is very much like Oxford, but perceptibly infe- rior in extent and general impressiveness. And yet, what a university is this ! Think of all the colleges and theological seminaries of the New England States united under one governing senate, and located in one city of about forty thousand inhabitants, and you have a tolerably 3IO RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. correct idea of Cambridge or of Oxford. A notable feature of these universities is the sys- tem of fellowships, which at Cambridge are about four hundred in number, and are of the nature of so many prizes. Their annual value varies from $500 to $1,500; while some of the senior fellowships are worth $2,500 a year. eJ ?1 OrfjapfBr XVII. IN IRELAND AND SCOTLAND. ^® MADE my exit from England by way of ^^ Chester and Holyhead. Quaint old Ches- ^ ^ ter, associated with the Roman Legions, whose coins and incriptions have been found here — who that has ever walked about its an- cient walls, and marked its gates and towers, and wandered through its curious '' Rows," and studied the carved gables of its old houses, but wishes to return again ? The two main streets cross each other at right angles, and are hewn out of the rock so as to be several feet below the level of the houses. In traversing these streets, one hardly knows whether he is up- stairs or down-stairs, or in somebody's private chamber. Long covered galleries seem to run through the front part of the second-story of all the adjoining houses, and to constitute the main business street, while the lower floors are used for inferior warehouses, and the private residences are stowed awa}^ on a third floor as if to get away from all the traffic below. Twice 311 312 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. in one day I walked the circuit of those an- cient walls, and reveled in the beautiful scen- ery around. I lingered in the Phoenix Tower, which has an inscription declaring that " King Charles stood in this tower, September 24, 1645, and saw his army defeated on Rowton Moor." I sat awhile in '' Caesar's Tower," all that remains of the ancient castle. From the Tower of Trinity Church, beneath which Mat- thew Henr}^, the Expositor, lies buried, I wrote an epistle to dear friends beyond the sea. The old cathedral is full of interest, and its Chap- ter House contains the colors of the Cheshire Regiment which were carried at the battle of Bunker Hill. Dublin. A ride along the rock}^ northern coast of Wales to Holyhead, and a sail across the wild, tempestuous Irish Sea, brought me to Dublin. This great and beautiful city covers more than a thousand acres, a considerable portion of its site having been reclaimed from the sea. The river Liffey, running from west to east, divides the city into two nearl}^ equal portions, and is crossed by nine or ten bridges. Its banks are faced with magnificent granite walls. The public buildings are all of an imposing charac- IN IRELAND AND SCOTLAND, 313 ter, and the open squares are ornamented with monuments to the honor of distinguished men. The Phoenix Park, of nearly two thousand acres, is one of the most beautiful public re- sorts of its kind in Great Britain. The grounds and buildings of Trinity College occupy more than forty acres. This grand institution, founded in 1591, enjoys all university powers and privileges, and is finely equipped for car- rying on the work of higher education. Such men as Ussher, and Berkeley, and Sir W. Ham- ilton, and Burke, and Sheridan, and Swift, and Goldsmith have gone forth from these halls of learning. I was shown the place, on Merrion Square, where Wellington was born, and the old house near St. Patrick's Cathedral which is famous for being the birthplace of Tom Moore. The cathedral itself is memorable for its historic associations and numerous monu- ments; but nothing it contains attracts more visitors than the two large marble slabs which cover the graves of Dean Swift and his much- injured ^^ Stella." BKI.FAST AND THK GiANT'S CauSKWAY. The ride from Dublin northward along the eastern coast of Ireland to Belfast afforded 314 RAMBLES IN THE OLD IVORLD. many a beautiful view, but nothing to detain me in this writing. Belfast is said to be the second city of the Emerald Isle. It bears a general appearance of enterprise and prosper- ity. Its trade is extensive and its manufacto- ries numerous. Its public, and many of its private, buildings are both an ornament and an honor to. the country. I visited with special interest the buildings of the Methodist College. The new scholastic year was about to begin, and many students were gathering from differ- ent parts of the land. The entire equipment of this noble institution is commendable, and promises to sustain in the future the honorable record of its work from the beginning. From Belfast I made a day's excursion to the Giant's Causeway. My first ride on an electric railway was from Portrush to the Causeway, a distance of about seven miles. I spent many hours in wandering over those singular formations of basaltic rock. I at- tempted to climb the high cliffs, and worked my way over the rocks and ledges for a dis- tance of two or three hundred feet above the sea; but as the bold columns became more precipitous and threatening, I made a retreat, IN IRELAND AND SCOTLAND. 315 and followed a path around the point of rocks for several miles. Returning, I sat down upon the columnar rocks near to the place where the lower formation dips into the sea, and watched the rough billows as they rolled toward me and dashed wildly over the tops of the basaltic prisms. These polygonal bricks, so closely set together that the waters do not enter the crev- ices, may well have been the occasion of myth- ical legend. Here, says the old tradition, the giants once attempted to build a magnificent highway across the sea to Scotland; but the sea was mightier than the giants, and to this day rolls its irresistible tide against these use- less pillars of rock, and laughs at even the proudest works of giants' hands. Returning from the Causeway, I stopped an hour or more at Dunluce Castle, now a moss- covered ruin. A narrow wall unites it with the mainland, and its foundation is a lofty, in- sulated rock that overhangs the sea. Under- neath this rock is a huge cave, opening a passage from the mainland to the water. The origin and history of this old castle is wrapped in as deep a mystery as the poems of Ossian. ^l6 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. o G1.ASGOW. A night journey by steamer from Belfast brought me to Glasgow, the great commercial metropolis of Scotland. In its vast shipyards most of the steamers of Great Britain are con- structed, and its chemical works are said to be the largest of the kind in the world. The principal business streets compare w^ell with those of other great cities ; the George Square is admirably adorned with colossal statues ; the West End Park, the Queen's Park, the Alex- andra, and the Green, and the Botanic Gar- dens, are elegant and very inviting; but after the notice given in these pages to so man}'' things of this kind, I may well pass these by without further remark. The new buildings of the University of Glasgow are situated near the West End Park, and are w^orthy of the growing fame and influence of an institution that has sent forth such men as Adam Smith and Reid and Miller and Melville and Baillie and Burnet. The cathedral is a somewhat gloomy but massive pile, and dates its founda- tion in the twelfth century. Its present length is three hundred and nineteen feet, and its vast but gracefully-tapering spire is two hun- IN IRELAND AND SCOTLAND. 317 dred and twenty-five feet high. The stained- glass windows are finely executed, and attract the special study of visitors. The crypts are extensive, and consist of long, dark aisles run- ning beneath massive Gothic arches. They were once used for purposes of worship, and fitted up with pews, but are now cold and dis- mal as any vaulted sepulcher could be. Near the cathedral, and separated from its grounds by a small lake, is the Necropolis. It is reached by a narrow road over what is called the ''Bridge of Sighs," and occupies an eminence which forms a most appropriate background to the cathedral. It contains many monuments of commanding size and beauty, chief among which is the one erected to the memory of Knox. Ayr. Glasgow is a point of departure for many delightful excursions. Chief of thCvSe are the trips easily made to Paisley Abbey, and Ham- ilton Palace, and Bothwell Castle, and the Falls of the Clyde. But probably Ayr and the neighboring birthplace of Burns attract more visitors than any of those just named. I con- fess that it was the first object of my care, after reaching Glasgow, to make this trip of forty 3l8 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, miles to see the early home of Scotland's great lyric poet. I walked over the *' Auld Brig " and the New, but heard no windy words of contending sprites. I climbed the Gothic structure which occupies the place of the old Wallace Tower, and looked upon the ''drowsy dungeon clock," which is mentioned in the familiar poem of '* The Brigs of Ayr." I wan- dered out along the banks of the winding stream, and observed that now, as in the days of its famous poet, *' Ayr gurgling kissed his pebbled shore, O'erhuug with wild woods, thickening green ; The fragrant birch and hawthorn hoar Twined amorous round the raptured scene ; The flowers sprang wanton to be prest, And birds sang love on every spray." A two miles' w^alk from Ayr brought me to *' Kirk Alloway," a broken ruin now, which looks as if it might well be haunted even more than in the olden time. A few rods distant is the bridge made so famous by "Tam O'Shan- ter's Ride," and there my friend and I w^ere met by a troublesome talker, who insisted on rehearsing to us the poem w^hich has made the spot immortal in literature. But we soon turned away, and left him reciting to the '* Auld Brig," while we examined the beautiful Burns IN IRELAND AND SCOTLAND, 319 Monument in the immediate vicinity. It occu- pies the center of a garden, and contains an in- teresting collection of articles associated with the life of Burns, such as the Bible he gave his Highland Mary, various portraits of the poet, and various editions of his works. From Gi^asgow to Stiri^ing. One of the tours from Glasgow which I much desired, but failed to make, was the pop- ular excursion by steamer to Oban, Staffa, and lona, compassing the entire Isle of Mull. But the disappointment was offset by that roman- tic tour to Stirling, by way of I^ochs I^omond and Katrine and the Trosachs. Proceeding by rail to Balloch, the southern extremity of lyoch lyomond, we found a steamer waiting for us at the pier. The beautiful lake opens around us in exquisite loveliness, and as the boat steams out northward we observed Bal- loch Castle on the one side, and the admirable Cameron HoUvSe upon the other. We pass along among the numerous islands which add so much to the charming outlook ; we note the hills which tower up in the distance ; we touch at various landings on the way, crossing and recrossing the lake, and in the enthusiasm 3 20 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, which so much visible beauty begets we imag- ine that each new scene that opens on the eye is more delightful than its predecessor. The Loch narrows as we proceed, until it becomes like a small stream of water. Among the numerous peaks that lift their heads above us, we notice Ben Lomond as monarch of them all, towering aloft more than three thou- sand feet above the water. At Inversnaid we disembarked, and took a coach five miles over the mountains to Stronachlachar Pier and Hotel on Loch Katrine. The sail over this smaller lake was even more entrancing than that of Lomond. Our little steamer wound its way through the enchanting scenes, and every eye was intent to catch each new surprise of landscape as it burst upon the view. And here at last was " Ellen's Isle," made immortal by the genius of Scott. "There," said a guide, who seemed to know all about it, '' there is the very spot where Fitz James landed, and yonder," said he, pointing up the mountain, '4s the dread ' Goblin's Cave.' " On the opposite side, he pointed out the *' silver strand," where the royal hunter *' Stood concealed amid the Ijrakc To view the Lady of the Lake." L IN IRELAND AND SCOTLAND, 32 1 I We landed and took our journey through ''the deep Trosach's wildest nook," and, ascending the mountain, looked back from more than one ''Airy point, Where, gleaming with the setting sun. One burnished sheet of living gold. Loch Katrine la}^ beneath us rolled, — In all her length far winding lay. With promontory, creek, and bay. And islands that, empurpled bright. Floated amid the livelier light, And mountains that like giants stand To sentinel enchanted land. High on the south huge Ben-Venue Down on the lake in masses threw Crags, knolls, and mounds, confusedly hurled, The fragments of an earlier world ; A wildering forest feathered o'er His ruined sides and summit hoar. While on the north, through middle air, Ben-A'an heaved high his forehead bare." Onward we went by the side of Loch Achray, and over the Brig of Turk, and to Loch Vennachar, with Ben-Ledi towering away in the distance, and onward still, " Till past Clan-Alpine's utmost guard, As far as Coilaiitogle's ford." And then we hastened onward to the train, and made our way more rapidly than Fitz 21 322 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. James's fiery steed Bayard brought him to the towers and town of Stirling, "the bulwark of the North." The chief attraction of Stirling is its old castle, perched on a precipitous rock, and com- manding one of the finest views in all Scotland. Its history is connected with the various wars between the English and the Scotch; it was long the favorite residence of the kings of Scotland, and the birthplace of James II and James V. An official guide conducts visitors through the castle, and calls attention to the points of greatest interest. He never fails to lead you to the fatal room where James II, in a moment of passion, stabbed William, Earl of Douglas, and shows the window out of which the lifeless body was cast into the yard below. From "The Lady's Lookout" he points out the vale of Menteith, and the peaks of Ben- Lomond, Ben- Venue, Ben-A'an, and Ben-Ledi. Most of the objects of interest in and about the city are visible from various parts of this castle, but especially the battle-field of Bannockburn, where, on June 24, 13 14, Robert Bruce, with 30,000 Scotch, defeated Edward II with 100,000 English, and secured the independence of Scotland. The place is now an open, cultivated IN IRELAND AND SCOTLAND, 2>^2> field, with no monument or memorial except *'the Bore Stone," on which Bruce planted his standard on that day of triumph. That lone* relic occupies a high place on the field, but has been so much injured by visitors that it has been found necessary to cover it with a network of iron to protect it from further des- ecration. The Greyfriars' Church and the adjoining cemetery attract all visitors. Monuments to Scotland's great reformers, the '%adies' Rock," and the Rock Fountain, are well worthy of in- spection. One tombstone bears the following inscription : '' Our life is but a winter day ; Some only breakfast and away, Others to dinner stay. And are full fed. The oldest man but sups, And goes to bed; Large is his debt That lingers out the day ; He that goes soonest Has the least to pay." Edinburgh. Of all foreign cities which I have visited that one which lingers in memory as the most homelike, that one which above all others I 324 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. would choose for a life-long residence, and which combines in itself and its environs that inexpli- cable charm of city and country, of beauti- ful landscape and of historic monuments, op- portunities of quiet study and of charming ex- cursions, friendly association with men and women of purest morals and of highest cul- ture, that city is Edinburgh, the modern Athens of the North. Ah ! what a ramble of glory is that to Roslin Castle, especially if one is able to make it on foot, and take his time, and fill his soul with the visions of beauty and romance to be gathered by the way! Who that has made the journey can ever forget his visit to Abbotsford, and the armory and li- brary and study and drawing-room of its builder, and the walk thence to Melrose Abbey, and the sight of that splendid ruin, which the magic pen of Scott has so enhanced ! Or who, having seen, can ever forget Dryburgh Abbey and the tomb of the *' Wizard of the North?" My first walk in Edinburgh, and one to be recommended to tourists, was through the mag- nificent Princes Street, by the elegant and im- posing Monument of Scott, to Calton Hill. I ascended Nelson's Monument, a lofty circular IN IRELAND AND SCOTLAND. 325 tower, which affords a wonderful view over the entire city and all the region round about. A large ball on the flagstaff, moved by an elec- tric shock from the Royal Observatory, drops exactly at one o'clock each day, and at the same instant a time-gun is fired from the cas- tle on the opposite mountain. Other monu- ments on this hill attract attention, especially those of Burns, Dugald Stewart, Playfair, and David Hume. My next procedure was directly to the cas- tle which marks the highest and oldest part of the city, and, like Calton Hill, commands a magnificent view. There I looked my fill upon the crown and scepter and sword of state, the precious regalia of the old Scottish royalty, which are kept on exhibition in the so-called Crown-room. I visited Queen Mary's room, where James VI was born, and Queen Margaret's Chapel, and also paid all proper respect to the huge cannon known as Mons Meg. But the walk from the castle down High Street and Canongate to Holyrood Palace is probably the most interesting experience which the ordinary traveler enjoys in Kdin- burgh. Here we find many a famous "close" — 326 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, that is, a narrow passage from the street to a court closed in with surrounding houses. One of the first of these to attract our attention is Blair's Close, in which we find the mansion of the Duke of Gordon, with an armorial carving over the door, and a cannon-ball sticking in the gable. Next we notice " Ramsay Gardens," back of the waterworks, where Allan Ramsay, author of the " Gentle Shepherd," lived and died. We pass the fine building used for the meetings of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland; and the entrance into the famous "West Bow," an ancient street which leads down to the Grassmarket ; and Milne's Court, opposite the Bow, dating from the year 1690; and James's Court, an old aristocratic dwelling-place ; and Riddle's Close, where Hume lived several years, and where, it is said, he began his History of England; and Brodie's Close, and Lady Stair's Close, and Baxter's Close — all famous in their way — and come to the ancient and venerable St. Giles's Church. As we approach this historic edifice we ob- serve the figure of a large heart wrought into the pavement of the street, and are told that it marks the site of the Old Tolbooth, the orig- inal Parliment House of Scotland, afterwards IN IRELAND AND SCOTLAND. 327 used as a prison, and commonly called '' The Heart of Midlothian." The Church of St. Giles has witnessed a long and varied history. Its original architectural features have been obliterated by modern renovations. At one time it contained more than forty different chapels and altars. After the Reformation it was divided off into four places of worship. Here the bold reformer, John Knox, preached. Here, in 1643, ''the Solemn League and Cove- nant" was formally confirmed. One may linger long in the chapels and aisles of this old struc- ture, and feel that he treads on holy ground. At the back of the church a stone in the pavement marked J. K., is believed to desig- nate the place of John Knox's grave. The old cemetery, which adjoined the church on the south, is now covered with a stone pave- ment, and beyond it rise the stately buildings of the Parliament House and the Advocates' lyibrary. Proceeding eastward on High Street we pass Dunbar's Close, where Cromwell's Ironsides lodged after the battle which made them masters of the Scottish Capital, and come to the notable, old-time-looking house, project- ing somewhat into the street, where John Knox lived, studied, preached, and died. From this 32^ RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD, point on to its eastern terminus the street is called the Canongate, and contains many a close and house of historic interest. The old Canongate Churchyard is noted for the graves of Adam Smith, Dugald Stewart, David Allen, the artist, and Adam Ferguson, the poet. By the grave of this last named, it is said that Burns once came, uncovered his head, sat down and wept. Emerging from the Canongate we come to Holyrood Palace and the old Abbey of the same name, which are both worthy of repeated visits. The Abbey is but an imposing ruin now. Its history takes us back to the begin- ning of the twelfth century, and is intermixed with curious legends. Here Charles I was crowned King of Scotland, and many a royal pair have been married, and the bodies of sev- eral kings have been buried within these an- cient walls. The present palace, which oc- cupies the site of the old Holyrood House, is a fine structure, built in the form of a quad- rangle around a spacious inner court, and strengthened at the two front corners with projecting turrets, which add notabl}^ to its beauty and impressiveness. Its principal apart- ments are open dail}" to visitors, who are IN IRELAND AND SCOTLAND, 329 conducted through the picture-gallery, Lord Darnley's rooms, and the apartments of Queen Mary. In these last we are shown the queen's private dining-room, her bedroom and dressing- room, her audience-room and the secret pas- sage by which Darnley and his attendants en- tered when they took the life of Rizzio, who was closeted with the queen. The spot on the floor where Rizzio fell, pierced with many a dagger-thrust, is pointed out at the head of the staircase. Beyond this palace the tourist may walk or drive to Arthur's Seat, a rocky eminence which rises more than eight hundred feet above the sea, and commands the finest view in all this part of Scotland. The foot-traveler will visit *' St. Anthony's Chapel" on his way up or down the mountain, and also drink of the water of '' St. Anthony's well," a notable fountain issuing from the base of a huge boulder. The chapel is a small but very ancient ruin, the history of which is almost lost in the mivSt of legend. The south part of the city of Edinburgh has also its numerous places of historic inter- est. The splendid buildings of the university, the ample librar}^ and the fine equipment of 330 RAMBLES IN THE OLD WORLD. all its departments, make this noble institution prominent among the great universities of the United Kingdom. The Grassmarket below the castle rock is sadly memorable for the many executions which occurred there in former times. The spot where the horrible gibbet stood is marked by a circle and a cross in the pavement. To the west of the Grass- market is the little street called West Port, where Chalmers established his mission church. It was my good fortune, one Sunday morning, to attend service at that old ''Territorial Church," and hear Professor Blaikie preach the induction sermon of the new pastor. The beautiful structure of Heriot's Hospital is also near this place, with the Greyfriars' Church and churchyard on the east of it. From this point a broad street leads southward to the Meadows, an extensive park laid out with walks and shade-trees, and beyond this is the cemetery, in which rest the mortal remains of Hugh Miller, .Dr. Chalmers, and Dr. Guthrie. But I must put a stop to this record of my rambles. And could I leave off in any better place than this beautiful city of Scotland? Fain would I linger and roam a thousand times over these romantic hills of the north. Where is IN IRELAND AND SCOTLAND. 33 1 the country that has a better right than Scot- land to boast of heroes and warriors and states- men and scholars and divines and historians and poets? Where is the land that is more famed for sturdy moral character, simplicity and beauty of home-life, and all that is uplift- ing and refining in the noblest culture of hu- manity? All true patriots, of whatever land, will gladly join with Burns in singing: '* O Scotia! my dear, my native soil! For whom miy warmest wish to heaven is sent. Long may the hardy sons of rustic toil Be blest with health and peace and sweet content ! And O, may Heaven their simple lives prevent From luxury's contagion, weak and vile ! Then, howe'er crowns and coronets be rent, A virtuous populace may rise the while, And stand a wall of fire around their much-loved isle." INDEX. Page. Abbotsford ^ 324 Abelard 230 Achard 254 AcTO-Corinth 138 Acropolis of Athens 126 Addison 305, 308 Adolph of Nassau 255 ^galeos, Mt 135 ^gina 126 ^schylus 130 Agamemnon 140 Agnano Lake 154 Agrigentum 149 Ahr 242 Akragas 149 Alban Hills 169 Albany 12 Albert of Austria 255 Alexander 121 Alexandria Troas 121 Alford, Henry 290 Allen, David 328 Alps 97, 186, 193, 198, 200 Alva, Duke of 284 Amalfi 165 Americus Vespucius 178 Amsterdam 275 Andermatt 203 Andernach 243 Angelo Castle 171 Annathal 58, 59 Anschar 18, 24 Anselm .288 Anthony Chapel 329 Antwerp 279 Apennines 186 ApoUinaris 242 Page. Appian Way 169, 175 Arch of Triumph, Paris. .210 Archilochus 122 Arenfels 243 Areopagus 131 Arethusa 145 Argonauts 121 Argos 140 Aristophanes 130 Arminius 277 Arno 178 Arnold, Thomas 308 Arth 199 Arthur's Seat 329 Assyrian Monuments, 216, 297 Athens 126 Athos, Mt 122 Attila 56 Augsburg 55, 75 Augusteum 50 Augustine 18, 288 Augustus, King Ernest.. 27 Aurelius, Emperor 97 Avernus 155 Ayr 317 BacchUvS Theater 130 Baden 103 Baiaf , Bay of 155 Baillie 316 Balkan Mts 105 Balliol College 305 Balloch 319 Baltic Sea 263 Bannockburn 322 Barbarossa 73 333 334 INDEX, Page. Bartholomew Church .... 299 Bartholomew Massacre.. .218 Bavaria, Statue 81 Bavon, Cathedral 286 Bazars of Constantinople, 112 Beatrice 255 Beauchamp Tower 295 Beaumarchais 230 Becket, Thomas a 288 Bedford.. 308 Belfast 313 Bellini 230 Bellosguardo 178 Ben-A'an 321 Ben-I^edi 322 Ben-I^omond 322 Bennett 14 Benson, Joseph 300 Ben-Venue 322 Beranger 230 Berkeley 313 Berlin 29 Berne 206 Bernstorff 38 Bertheau 44 Bilton Hall 308 Bingen 252, 256 Bismarck 37 Bithynia 108 Black Prince 289 Black Tower 95 Blaikie 330 Bleikeller 24 Bliicher 263 Blue Grotto 158 Bodenbach 91 Boleyn, Anne 295 Bonn 43, 44, 238 Boppard 248 Bora, Catharine Von 50 Bore Stone 323 Bornhofen 248 Bosphorus 108 Bothwell Castle 317 Boulgourloo 108, 119 Bradley 14 Branbach 248 Page. Brandenburg 23 Brandenburg Gate 30 Bremen 19, 272 Bremerhaven 19 Brenner Pass 193 Brienz 206 British Museum 296 Browning, Mrs. — quoted, 179 Brozik 96 Bruce 322 Briihl 103 Bruges 286 Brunhild 56 Brussels 282 Bugenhagen 53 Bulgaria 103, 105 Bunhill Fields 300 Bunting, Jabez 300 Bunyan 300, 308 Burke 313 Burnet 316 Burns 317, 325, 328 Burns — quoted 3 18, 331 Byron — quoted, 17, 173, 183, 192 Byzantium 107 Cesar's Tower 312 Calton Hill 324 Calvin 207 Cambridge 309 Canal of Corinth 137 Canongate 325, 328 Canova 99, loi Canterbury 288 Capitoline Hill 171 Capri 157 Capua i68 Caracalla, Baths 170, 175 Carlsruhe 256 Carpathian Mts 97 Cartellier 230 Casino, Mt 169 Cassel 64 Castle of Asia. .• 118 Castle of Europe 117 Catania 142 INDEX. 335 Page. Cattegat 266 Caub 251 Cenchrese 138 Chalcedon 1 18 Chalmers 330 Chamonix 205 Champollion 230 Champs Blysees 211 Charlemagne 56, loi Charles 1 303, 328 Charles IV \... 96 Charles V, Kmperor 55 Charles XII '^^, 269 Charlotte, Princess 303 Charlottenburg 35 Charybdis 143 Chester 311 Chopin 230 Christlieb 44, 239 Chrysostom 107 Circus Maximtis 171 City Road Chapel 300 Clarke, Adam 300 Cloaca Maxima 171 Clovis 56, 222 Cluny Museum 221 Clyde, Falls of 317 Cranach 52 Cranmer 305 Crimean War 118 Cumse 155 Cyclades 126 Coblenz 243 Coilantogle Ford 321 Coliseum 171 Cologne 238 Columbus 184, 192 Colvin 14, 158 Conrad II 73 Constance 195 Constance I^ake 194 Constantine 105, 107, iii Constantine, Arch of, in Rome 171 CoUvStantine, Arch of, in Thessalonica 124 Constantinople 106 Page. Copenhagen 263, 272 Coppet 207 Corinth 136 Cornelius 78 Correggio 90, 180 Dagobert 233 Dannecker 255 Dante 178 Danton 220 Danube 75, 103 Daphni, Convent 133 Dardanelles 120 Darius 116 Darnley 329 D'Aubigne 56 De Foe 300 Delfthaven 278 Delitzsch 45 Delphi Ill Demosthenes 131 Dervishes no Descartes 276 De Stael, Madame 207 Dickens 294 Dillmann 40 Dionysius, Ear 146 Doge's Palace 186, 191 Dogs of Constantinople . . 112 Dornbach 103 Douglas, Earl of 322 Dover 288 Dover, Straits of 18 Drachenfels 240 Dragon's Gorge 58 Dresden 86 Druids 18 Drusus 253 Dublin' 312 Dudley, Robert 308 Duhm 43 Dunluce Castle 315 Diirer 74,93 Dutch Customs 273 Dryburgh Abbey 324 Edinburgh 323 Editha 27 336 ITsDEX. Page. Edward, Confessor 294 Edward II 322 Egnatian Way 124 Eg^^ptian Antiquities, 216, 297 Ehrenbreitstein 243 Eichhorn 44 Eiger 200 Eisenach 56 Eisleben 61 Elbe 91, 260 Elector, The Great 33 Eleonora 270 Eleusis 127, 132 Elgin Marbles 296 Elizabeth, Queen 294, 308 Ellen's Isle 320 Elmo, Castle 155 Engers 243 Erasmus 278 Erechtheus, Temple 129 Erfurt 61 Erpel 242 Etna, Mt 142 Eton College 301 Euboea 126, 134 Eudoxia, Queen 108 Euripides 130 Eustache, Church 229 Farel 207 Falkenburg 251 Faro Point 143 Ferguson, Adam 328 P^ichte 35 Finsteraarhorn 200, 204 Florence 177 Fliieien 202 Fontainebleau 233 Forum, Roman 171 Frankfort 254 Frederica, Queen 27 Frederick, Crown Prince of Germany 38 Frederick the Great 31 Frederick I 270 Frederick the Wise 55, 57 Page. Freiburg 206 Fuorigrotta 155 Furka Pass 203 Furstenberg 251 Galileo 178 Gate of Lions 140 Geneva 207 Geneva Lake . .^ 206 Genoa 184 George III 303 George IV 303 Gessler 201 Ghent 285 Giant's Causeway 314 Gibbon 207 Girgenti 149 Glasgow 316 Gloel 44 Glj^ptothek 79 Goblin's Cave 320 Godesberg 240 Godfre^' Bouillon 283 Goethe 82, 86, 255 Golden Horn 106, 108, no Goldsmith .313 Goodwin, Thomas 300 Goschenen 203 Gothard Railwaj^ 201 Gothenburg 266 Gottingen 43 Gray 270, 301 Grassmarket 326, 330 Green Vault 88 Gregory, C. R 45 Gregory VII 253 Grey, Lady Jane 295 Grimsel 205 Grosse 89 Grotius 277 Guicciardini 178 Gustavus Adolphus.. .87, 269 Gustavus Vasa 270 Gutenberg 253 Gutenfels 251 Guthe 45 Guthrie 330 INDEX, 337 Page. Haarlem 276 Hadrian's Arch 127 Hadrian's Tomb 171 Hague, The 277 Halberstadt 23 Halle 43 Hamburg 260, 272 Hamilton Palace 317 Hamilton, Sir W 313 Hammerstein 243 Hannibal 168, 177 Hanover 26 Hapsburgs 98 Hartz Mts 84 Hathaway, Anne 307 Hawthorne — quoted 297 Hegel 35 Heidelberg 43, 44, 66 Helicon, Mt 138 Heloise 230 Henry IV 231, 253, 289 Henry VII Chapel 294 Henry VIII, tomb 303 Henry Matthew 312 Herder 82, 86 Herod Atticus 130 Herodotus iii, 135 Herold 230 Hiero, Altar of 147 Hietzing 103 High Street 325 Hildegarde 248 Hildegunde 241 Hippodrome iii Hissarlik 121 Hoff 89 Hoffman 89 Hohe Sonne 58 Holy Club 306 Holyhead 311 Holyrood Palace 325, 328 Hortense 234 Hospenthal 303 Hotel des Invalides 223 Hotel de Ville, Antwerp. 281 Hotel de Ville, Brussels. .284 Hotel de Ville, Paris. 210, 218 Page. How^ard, Catharine 295 Hradschin 93 Hiibner 89 Huguenots 289 Humboldt 31, 35 Hume 325 Hungary 105 Hunt, Holman 305 Huss 55>92, 195 Ida, Mt 121 Imbros 121 Ingoldstadt 75 Innsbruck 193 Interlachen 206 Inversnaid 320 lona 319 Irish Sea 312 Irving, Washington — quoted 294 Ischia 155 Italian sunset 161 Jacoby 25 James II 322 James Vi 325 Janissaries iii Jerome of Prague. .68, 92, 195 Joan of Arc 231 Johannisberg Castle 252 John of Gaunt 286 John of Nepomuk 96 John XXIII 195 Josephine 233 Julius, Bishop 70 Jura Mts 200 Justinian 108 Kaftan 42 Kalenberg 103 Kamphausen 44, 239 Kappel 199 Karl, August 82 Kauffman, Angelica 89 Keble College 305 Kenil worth Castle 308 Kensington Museum 299 338 INDEX. Page. Kepler 75 Kermesse 280 Kirk Alloway 318 Kleinert 40? 41 Klosterneuburg 103 Knox 317, 327 Kriemhild 56 Krafft 72 I, AGARDE 44 I^ahn 247 Lahneck 248 Ivampsacus 120 I^and'sEnd 18 I^andskron 243 Langton 289 Ivaplace 230 Ivardner 300 lyateran Church 170 Ivatimer 205 I/ausanne 206 I^axenburg 103 lycaning Tower 183 I/echaeum 138 Ivcibnitz 26 I^eipzig 43, 45 lyemnos 121 lyeonardo da Vinci 185 lyeopoldsberg 103 Leutze 22 I^eyden 276 lyiebenstein 248 Iviffey River 312 lyincoln College 306 lyinden 29 I^och lyomond 319 lyoch Katrine 319 Ivommatzsch 42 I^ondon 290 Lrong 116 lyongfellow — quoted, 70, 72, 74, 167, 205, 2S7 IvOuis XIII 231 IvOuis XIV 231 IvOuis XV 233 lyoretto Chapel loi lyouise, Queen 33 f»AGE, lyouvre, The 216 I^oyola 75 I^indau 194 lyiibeck 262, 272 I^ucerne 201 lyucerne I^ake 200 Ivucrinus 155 IvUthardt 45 lyUther 32, 48 Macaulay — quoted 296 Machiavelli 178 Malcom — quoted 17 Madeleine 226 Magdalen College 305 Magdeburg 23, 27, 55 Mahomet II 117 Malmaison 234 Mansfield 48 Marat 222 Marathon 134 Maria Theresa loi Marie Antoinette 220, 236 Marie Louise 234 Marienberg 70 Marienthal 58 Marksburg 248 Marmora Sea 106, 108, 120 Mars' Hill 132 Mary, Queen of Scots, 294, 325, 329 Matterhorn 204 Maurice %) Maximilian of Bavaria. . . 93 Maximilian of Mexico. . .101 Mayence 252 Medici 178, 182 Megara 134 Meiringen 206 Melanchthon 49, 51 > 55 Mendelssohn 35 Menteith, Vale of 322 Melrose Abbey 324 Melville 316 Merx 44 Messina 143 Michael Angelo 178, 180 INDEX. 339 Page. Midlothian, Heart of 327 Milan 185 Miller, Hugh 316, 330 Milton's Tomb 300 Mirabeau 222, 229, 232 Mission Institue 25, 254 Modling 103 Mont Blanc 205, 208 Moore, Tom 313 Moretus 281 Morgue of Paris 219 Moselle 243, 244, 246 Moslem worship. 109, no, 113 Mouse Tower 251 Mull, Isle of 319 Munich 75 Murillo 217 Museums of Berlin 33 Mustapha 87 Mycenae 140 Nahe 251, 257 Nantes, Edict of 231 Naples 153 Napoleon, 30, 87, 102, 185, 189, 210, 212 215, 225, 227, 232. Napolen III 65 Napoleon's tomb 224 Narrows, The. 13 Nauplia 139 Neal, Daniel 300 Neander 35 Neckar 66, 68, 207 Nelson 299 Nelson's Monument in Ed- inburgh 324 Nemea 139 Nette 243 Neu-Waldegg 103 Neuweid 243 Niagara 12 Nibelungen 251 Nibelungen l^ied 56, 77 Nicias 148 Niederwald 252, 257 Nightingale, Florence 118 Page. Nisita 155 Nissa 105 NoUingen 251 North Cape 260 North Sea 18, 287 Notre Dame, Paris 218 Nuremberg 70 Nyon 207 Oban 319 Oberaarhorn 204 Oberwerth 247 Oberwesel 251 Oriental Express 104 Ortygia 146 Ossian 315 Ostend 287 Otho the Great 27 Oudeburg Gate 286 Owen, John 300 Oxford 303 P^STUM 168 Paisley Abbey < 317 Palace of Berlin 31 Palatine Hill 170 Palermo 151 Pantheon, Rome 174 Pantheon, Paris 222 Parthenon. . 126, 128, 129, 297 Paris 209 Parnassus, Mt 138 Pascal 222 Pegnitz 70 Peloponnesus 136 Pentelicon , Mt 134 Perugia 177 Peter, the Great 87 Pfalz 259 Pfleiderer 42 Phidias 129, 297 Phillip of Hessen 55 Philip of Macedon 105 Philippi 123 Philippopoli 105 Phoenix Park 313 Phoenix Tower 312 340 INDEX. Page. Picton 299 Pierian Spring 139 Pilatus, Mt 200 Pinakothek 80 Pincian Hill 170 Piraeus 126, 135 Pisa 183 Pitti Palace 180 Place de la Concorde 213 Plantin 281 Playfair 325 Pliny 122, 165 Plutarch 129 Pnyx 130 Pole....^ 289 Pompeii 162 Portrush 314 Potsdam 35 Pozzuoli 154 Pragiie 91 Procida 155 Propylseum, Athens 128 Propylaeum, Munich 79 'Psyttalea 135 PufFendorf 34 Punshon 300 Puteoli 154 Racine 222 Radetzky 95 Ramazan 113 Ramsaj^ Allan 326 Raphael 91, 180 Rapperschwj^l 198 Ratisbon 75 Ranch 35 Red Horse Hotel 306 Rembrandt 276 Reuchlin 55, 75 Reynolds 14, 15 Rhegium 143 Rheineck 243 Rheinfels 250 Rheinstein 251 Rhine, The 238 Rhine, Falls of 196 Rhone Glacier 203 Page. Rhone River 205 Rhone Valley 204 Richelieu 228 Ridley 205 Rigi.. 199 Rizzio 329 Robert College no, 116 Rogers — quoted 182 Roland Arch 240 Roland Statues 22 Rolle 207 Rollin 222 Roman Antiquities. .221, 296 Rome 168 Rosljm Castle 324 Rotterdam 277 Rosetta Stone 297 Roumelia 103 Rousseau 208, 222 Rowton Moor 312 Rubens 280 Rudolph 1 67 Rudolph II 95 Rudolph of Hapsburg. . .255 Rudersheim 257 Rueil 234 Rugby 308 Ruskin — quoted 189 Ryssel 45 Sachs 74 Sacred Way : 133 Salamis 126, 127, 135 Salonica 123 Samothrace 122 Santa Croce 183 Sarto 90, 180 Savonarola 55, 178, 180 Scaliger 276 Schaffhausen 196 Scheveningen 277 Schiller 82, 86, 100 Schleiermacher 35 Schliemann 121, 141 Schnorr 77 Schonbrunn 103 Schonburg 251 INDEX. 341 Page. Schreckhorn 200 Scironian Cliffs 136 Scone, Stone of 294 Scott, Sir W. — quoted 321 Scutari 118, 119 Scylla 143 Sedan 65 Sennacherib 297 Servia 105 Sevres 234 Seymour, Jane 303 Shakespeare's Tomb 307 Shalmaneser 297 Sheridan 313 Shottery 307 Shultz 44 Sicily 142 Sigismund 195 Silver Strand 320 Sinzig 242 Sistine Madonna 89 Slough 301 Smith, Adam 316, 328 Smith, Captain John . . . .300 Smithfield Martyrs 299 Sobieski 87 Sofia 105 Sophocles 130 Sorbonne 221 Sorrento 160 Southampton 18 Speyer 55, 253 Spires 253 Sporades 126 Sprague — quoted 8 Stabise 165 Staffa 319 Stahleck 251 Steinhauser 24 Steinmeyer 42 Steinthal 43 Sterrenberg 248 Stewart, Dugald 325, 328 Stirling 322 Stockholm 267 Stoke Pogis 301 Stolzenfels 247 Page. Stoss 72, 74 Strack 42 Strasburgh Cathedral 256 Stratford-on-Avon 306 St. Cloud 234 St. Columba 18 St. Denis, Cathedral 233 St. Dunstan 288 St. Germain-en-Iyaye 234 St. Goar 250 St. Kilian 69 St. lyaurence Church 72 St. Mark's, Venice 188 St. Martin Church 259 St. Martino Convent 155 St. Norbert 93 St. Patrick 18 St. Paul, 121, 122, 131, 138, 143 St. Paul's Cathedral 299 St. Peter's Church . . . 170, 172 St. Sebald's Church 71 St. Sepulcher's Church.. .300 St. Sophia 108, 109, 173 Suleiman 109 Sultan at prayer 114 Sunium Point 126 Swift, Dean 313 Sydenham Palace 299 Syracuse 145 Tam O'Shanter's Ride. 318 Taormina 144 Tasso 160 Taylor, Bayard — quoted . . 85 Tenedos 121 Tell, William 201 Tetzel 28 Thasos 122 Thessalonica, 123 Thorwaldsen 201 , 264, 272 Thrace 105 Thrasymene 177 Thuringian Forest 56 Tiberius, Kmperor 157 Tiryns 139 Titian 89, iS<:> Titus, Arch of 171 342 INDEX, Page. Tower of London 295 Trave 14 Trent 193 Trollhatta Falls 266 Trosachs 319 Troy 121 Tuileries 213, 214 Tycho Brahe 95 Uetliberg 198 Uffizi Palace 180 Universities, German 39 Unkel 242 Upsala 270 Ussher 313 Utrecht 272 Vahlen 43 Valley of the Heavenly Rest 118 Van Kyck 286 Vardar Gate 125 Vasco da Gama 192 Vatican 170 Venice 153, 186 Verona 193 Versailles 234 Vesuvius 162 Victor Hug-o's Tomb 222 Vienna 97 Vietro 168 Vincennes 232 Virgil's Tomb 154 Viret 207 Vischer 71 Vitzenau 201 Voigt 252 Voltaire 222 Vulcan 122 Wagra^i 102 Walderzee, Countess Von . 38 Waldus 55 Walhalla 75 Page. Wallace Tower 318 Wallenstein 95? 97 Walter of the Vogelw^eid. 69 Wartburg- 56 Warwick Castle 308 Waterloo 284 Watson, Richard 300 Watts, Isaac 300 Weimar 82 Weiss 40, 42 Wellington 299, 313 Wenceslaus 96 Weser : . 19 Wesley, John 300, 306 Wesley, Susannah 300 Westcott 293 Westminster Abbey 293 White Mountains 83, 97 Wied 243 Wieland 82 Wiesinger 43 Wilhelmshohe 64 William, Emperor, 31, 34, 36, 235 William IV 303 William, Prince 38 Windsor Castle 301 Wittenberg 48 Wordsworth — quoted 152 Worms 54 Wurzburg- 68 Wycliffe 55 Xerxes 121, 135 yungfrau 200 ZlSKA 92 Zoological Garden of Berlin 34 Zug 190 Zurich 197 Zwinger 88 Zwingli 197 ^!/5%^ 2 o. •^ .V V r -^ \ . > A o ^ ^^o ':^^J 4 ^' A c c v^, .^^ ■is' ,v^ s V ^' .^•^ "'-f .i' > o C: -r-' ^> ^ ^^ * (/ 1 ^ \ 'y- v^ 0^ .-^• -j.^