•->^h^. %/'^^'\/ /%»-.^^^% .v^. ^^. '""' A*^' &.-J ''^^ ''^^/•'^vr'i^'.c/ ^ %> ... n -like form in the otiier state- room, while Ben and Luap divided between them the two sumptuous lounges in the main saloon of the car. The accommodations were indeed fit for princes, and all retired the first night to dream of the closest intimacy with railway monarchs. T. Y.ellowstone Y, artist and trav- eler, was the most energetic seeker after the picturesque in nature that ever climbed a mountain or took :i yawning chasm at a single leaj). As light on his feet as a mountain goat, he had no more conception of fear than if lie were made of rubber, and a fail of a thousand feet simply the cjuestioii of how high he might ach individual nuMnlicr consti- uting it: and to a ceitain extent his conceit was shared In- the ailroad management, as a pri- ate car had been placed at the lisposal of the Four. It was at- aehed to the seven o'clock train inmediately behind the sleejier or Chicago, and Tom stood at he door to welcome the quartet i ith all the deferential politeness lid .smiles of the typical .Mary- uid darkey. Tom, as steward of No. 217, duly appreciated his ixalted position in all its bear- ings, as also did the Four, and ■ odily the understanding be- \Men white and black was all that could be -desired. Yellow- ■~tone had the bridal chamber, or, in other words, the most scrump- tious of the staterooms. Tlie F&iry found a resting-place for 12 77/-' (Jimrtet. rebound dm stiikinu; the rocks below. His name known of fame on both sides of the l)ig pond, he was none the less an agreeable companion, reputation and liigh position in his profession being to him most satisfac- torily- represented in the ruling- jjrice of his productions. Socially unas- suming and considerate, a charming talker, and a nuisician of rare power of expression, it was good to lie wilh him. B. Franklin, or Ben for shoit, m.lili- in |iliysir:il proportions and great of heart, never knew the time when lie would not rather help others than himself. He was possessed of the happiest of faculties, — that of being alwaj-s on the alert to do a favor, and never at a loss to appreciate just how it should be done. The most inquisitive individual that ever acquired the growth of six feet in his stockings, the life-history of man, woman or child was to him as easy of extraction as the juice from an orange; the process was so natural that his features were the constant personification of innocence, and one might well be condoned the doubt as to sugar melting in his mouth. Such virtue as there is said to be in the laughter that tends to fat growing Ben could be depended upon to demonstrate; and when convulsions seemed most imminent there would be upon his face an expression of guileless wonderment that simply capped the climax of hilarity. The last one to bed at night and the first one up in the morning, his animation tired not, his good spirits knew no flagging, and his tongue consistently retained that degree of activity best calculated to make him a match for the liveliest of mother-in-laws. The Fairy, so called from the fact of his waistband measuring fifty odd inches, and of his pedal extremities being of such dimensions as to iiint at the need of an uncommon building for the construction of their coverings, was of a literary turn of mind, with a strong tendency to art. Almost as large one way as the other, and as full of the " Old Nick " as a sixteen- year-old, when not eating, sketching or taking notes, could be counted upon as sure to infuse animation into inanimate things lying loose about the car. Fond of the good things of this life, and by general consent the caterer of the party, three square meals per day were as certain as that the Fairy's avoirdupois exceeded two hundred and a quarter. Between him and Tom there straightwaj' was established a fellow-feeling inaking them wondrous kind, and which was destined to communicate its filling- influences to the party entire. Young Luap was, in his way, as stilking a |icissrssion as any in I ho menagerie, and although the last of the l''ou]- to In; trottrd out, was by no means entitled to such place by rea.son of characteristics lacking; indeed he possessed them to such a degree as to almost require an apology for not mentioning him first. Smart as a whip, but far fi-om as pliable, he com- prehended more in a moment than tin- l)alanci' of the (|uartet could grasp in a week. At that agcwln'u thr diiilnma is looked upon as letters patent Picturesque B. mid O. to the possession of the world, any hesitancy in according him the absolute ownership was met by prompt disputation. To him white might be black if ho so pleased, and no knight of old fought more bravely for his lady- love than Luap for his contradic- tions. An aesthete would at sight declare him " a gainsay young- man," and hit the nail upon the head. He must have come into the world contradicting every- body who played any part in iiis advent. But he was an enjoyable associate, his pet conceit adding spice to his intercourse and his uniform good nature in doing anything within his power for anybody calling forth the warm- est affection. But few of his age were blessed with a brighter or ^ .^ J- Wyf\ 7 clearer intellect, and when ten years older and he finds there is still a great deal he does not know, he will be the better for it. History fails to record the exact location, of his boy- hood habitation, but if in the coun- try, then certain it is that the or- chards in the immediate vicinity of his home suffered. In the apple-eat- ing line Luap was so distinguished a success that he was forthwith dubbed Apple Jack, and as such the narra- tive will know him henceforth. It would hardly be fair to give Tom the cold shoulder by ignoring his claims to place in this picture- gallery. Aside from the importance of the position which he filled at his end of the car, he was a good deal of a character, having in his general 14 TInn ,n„l X,„r. make-up several points rather out of the average run. Short, and so compressed that his head and body seemed to be in constant conllict as to wiiere the one left off or tlie other began, physically speaking, he was not particularly symmetrical. Yet his face was decidedly attractive, — beauty in bronze relief, but beauty nevertheless. Like all chunky, thick- set men, his strength was something to measure well before calling it into violent action; but, unlike the majority of vassals of his hue, he was active, energetic, and slept only when there was nothing else for him to do. He was lightning, culinarily speaking, and the celerity with which he could prepare, cook and spread was amazing. As faithful to his prom- ises as in his fealty to those he served, his delight was a word of pr;iise, and it was his pride that he never presumed upon it. Tom found an old acquaintance in the porter of the sleeping car ahead, and returned therefrom with such glowing accounts of the elegance of the new sleeper that the Four resolved to have a look at it. Yellowstone, ow- ing to his distinction in artistic circles, was made chief of inspectors, and, with three assistants in his rear, proceeded to business. The car proved indeed to be " a tiling of beauty," and while possibly not " a joy forever," still its staunrh consti-ini ion. Its s])acious dinicnsions and stately propor- tions iuiiply justified the conviction that it was no creation of a day. The traveling public, after years and years of almost barbaric simplicity in the matter of railroad accommodations, might well have been pardoned the belief that the one great corporation which practically introduced and perfected the sleeping-car system could liave no successful rival. So long had journeys been made by night and by day in the ordinary coach, that the traveler hailed as a liberator from torture the man whose name is to-day a household word. No man, however, has accom- plished that which the coming man cannot e.xcel. This true, it must ])ass without dispute that when so loyal an advocate of this principle as tlic 15. and O. entered the field of sleeping-car competition there could not be any going backward, but instead the initial step taken forward from loyo(l in to insure completeness. There never was a time when the love of ilie artistic was more strongly I'!ft,. 15 displayed and the highest taste in all things better defined tlian at the present day. And this is by no means confined to the wealthiest class, for the possession of much money is no more the evidence of culture than it was during the shoddy days of the war. To a greater or less e.\tent this elevation of taste is indicated in almost every class of society, its actual development being oftentimes curbed by limited circumstances, which effectually prevent many persons artistically inclined from giving full play to their desires. No one would deem it in good taste to furnish and decorate the interiors of a square ~*\ of fine residences alike, with the system of repetition so rigid!}' perfect that the transposing of everything from one house to another would not be noticed. As the lover of the beautiful finds fresh sources of gratification in visiting new scenes, so should the traveler have novel revelations of artistic effects when for the time being within the comparatively contracted confines of a railway car. Monotony is disagreeable at all times, and never more so than when upon a journey. Appreci- ating this, and at the same time imbued with the all-prevailing passion for the artistic, the Com- y, in the building of sleep- ing and parlor cars, had them designed in nearly as many dif- ferent styles as to decoration and furnishing as there were cars. All the beautiful woods now so ■iiiK KviKv popular for interior use were intro- duced, — mahogan}', oak, rosewood, black-walnut, maple, ash. 'I'lie upholstering and fresco work matched to perfection in every instance. While thus studying so earnestly to please the eye, it was none the less so to insure that comfort to the body with- out which all else would be hut "love's labor lost." There were many opportunities for improvement in practical appliances. In the old make of cars the seats were at once too narrow and too high, and the space between the lower and the u])per berths when the latter were let down was such that the occupant of the former had to make a corkscrew of himself 16 Of a Mf//>t. in order to move about without peril to head or limb. These very unde- sirable features were abolished by the lowering and widening of the seats and the addition of considerable space between berths. Another innova- tion was an increase in the width of the berths, the B. and O. .sleepers being not only higher and wider than the old-style car, but more roomy in every respect. But of all the new departures none have given more gen- uine satisfaction than the provisions made for a comfortable night's rest. There are cars and cars, — some of them gorgeous in brass filigree, resplen- dent in brilliant contrasts and dazzling in veneer. All that the most ardent assthete could sigii for, to look at, is there ; but when night dims the glamour and the body yearns for rest, then may come something quite discordant with previous feelings : mattresses that do not reach within ten or twelve inches of the side of the car, and so abbreviated that the feet of the luckless passenger hang like Haman between heaven and earth ; sheets and blankets of such an e.xtent as to necessitate cold feet or bare shoulders, and pillows meager enough to suggest the advisability of stringing them together that they may not disappear in one's ears. Old and experienced travelers know full well that if exaggerations have been indulged in, they are, in the light of facts, justifiable. Many among them have used wraps and overcoats to remedy the defects in sheets and blankets, while the stuffing in of blankets to fill the chilling void between mattress and car-side has not been an infrequent experience. If there is one advantage over another that is possessed by the B. and O. sleepers, it is that of ample accommodation for a perfect night's rest. This has been looked after with the most careful eye, and it is hazarding nothing to state that no sleeping cars ever built more richly merit the name. The mat- tresses are of the finest hair, thick, and of such dimensions as to fill entirely the spaces between the side of the car and the arm of the seat; the linen is of the best; the sheets, together with the blankets, are of such unrestricted length that the tallest individual can have no fears of catch- ing cold from exposed extremities, or suffer from rheumatism between the shoulders from a lack of sufficient covering. While more or less attention has been paid in other cars to the comfort and convenience of gentlemen who desire to smoke en route, it has been, as a rule, less rather than more. In most instances this mindfulness has been confined to a little box of an apartment, in which but two gentlemen could sit with any degree- of comfort, and after smoking for half an hour the air would become such as to lead to a hasty retreat. In many sleepers there are no accom- modations for lovers of the weed, and they arc forced into a second-class car, where the fragrance of their havanas renders the atmosphere but barely endurable. Recognizing that fully two-thirds of tlie gentlemen who travel in palace cars are fond of smoking, and that they find in its indulgence a pleasant pastime, the Company in the con.structing of its Picturesque B. and O. 1 Nl 1 ' .- 1 i '" ■ pv -if \ 1,11, III sgwB ^^^ijJS^^^rxV' P ^^^.^ LOCT-ST POINT — EI EV\TORs sleepei s made ample pro- vision foi this class of 1 iss( ngers All the smoking' looms aie ot such unusual (linunsions that as many as eight gentlemen may sit in comfort and c-njoy to perfection the influences of the weed. It would be idle for any one to argue that there must be a want of that experience which the old company possesses in the handling and care of sleeping cars, and as a consequence the new system cannot be perfect in all its details. The superintendent, fiom his long 18 ' Baltimore. service in a like capacity with the older corporation, is no inexperienced official; and as very many of tlie conductors and porters served under him there, they are none the less experienced now. It is quite natural that the defeat of the combination seeking to control the entire sleeping-car system of the country should be followed by resentful feelings, which are by no means decreased as the new system proves so conclusively its power as a competitor. Tiie questions at issue were determined in the highest courts of the land. Injunctions would not hold water, and pre- dictions of failure have been demonstrated as futile. The Company's sleeping cars are run without change between New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore and Washington to Cincinnati, St. Louis and Chicago, and will continue long after other great railway lines have established their inde- pendence of the would-be monopoly and proven to the public their ability to manage their own business without the assistance of outside concerns. As the train pulled into the depot in Philadelphia the quartet passed out into the magnificent new edifice which is the admiration of the Quaker City. The millions of money expended in perfecting the entrance of a railway to the very heart of the populous center of commerce have demonstrated once again the force of man's will. That which was said could not be accomplished has become a fixed fact, and the lesson thus told in one city cannot be lost on others where the obstacles to be over- come are almost as nothing in comparison. The cry "All aboard ! " came from the lusty lungs of the conductor, and the quartet, back in the pri- vate car once more, vanished, not to become visible again until within the hospitable gates of the Monumental City. BALTIMORE. It would be a difficult matter to sum up in positive entirety the part the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad Company has played in the building up of Baltimore. So closely interwoven are the histories of the municipality and the corporation, that to attempt to point out that undertaking wherein the one had an important share and the other not would be a task that few would willingly undertake. In the President's office at Camden Station is probably the most com- plete library in existence devoted to railway matters, and no sooner had the Fairy run his eye along the shelves than he became impressed with the conviction that nothing could bo more interesting to the general %\ LOCUST POINT— MAli 20 Pxtrk ill Tii-eiily-sU: reader than a sketch of the past as told in the reports of the Baltimore and Ohio, — the first passenger railroad in the world. The origin of the Company dates back to 182G. At that time Balti- more was much exercised over the fact that the public works of Pennsyl- vania and the Erie Canal of New York had diverted from the city a large portion of the trade which she had essayed to center upon herself. To Baltimore this trade was an important element of prosperity and wealth, and when the Alleghanies were turned by the long circuit of the lake shore, the greater portion of her commerce at that time bid fair to be appropriated by Philadelphia and New York. The proposed Chesapeake and Ohio Canal had been generally looked to by the citizens of Baltimore as the most expeditious avenue to the recovery of the receding vantage-ground. But upon, till' ])iil)lieation of the estimate and its proposed cost, and the for- midable .lilliiulf i.'s which lay in its way by reason of the scarcity of water and the hiuh il(\ ations over which it mu.st necessarily be carried, the con- viction became general that the project would never reach other construc- tion than upon paper. Then it was that several leading citizens, with a determination to seek other means than the impracticable canal, began the canvassing of a proposition to build a railroad. The daring enterprise thus manifested may be best appreciated when it is remembered that up to this time no railroad had been constructed either in Europe or America for the conveyance of passengers, produce or merchandise between distant points. It is true that experiments had been carried on for a year or two in England, but they had been emjiloyed only for local purposes, such as the transportation of coal, iron, and other heavy articles from mines or factoriek, to navigable waters. For general purposes of travel and trade there were many theories as to how roads might be constructed; and so crude was public opinion upon the subject that the question had not been .settled as to whether stationary steam-engines or horse-power would be preferable as a motor. Baltimore at this time was a city of scarcely more than fifty thousand inhabitants. While it was then the nearest point, as now, to the seaboard from the West, it had many grave difficulties to overcome. Its site, while picturesque, was for commercial purposes anything but advantageous. Rugged and unpropitious in the contour of the land, it presented every obstacle of hill and marsh, requiring wharves for the convenience of commerce and necessitating the filling up of estuaries to insure health. Water facilities were primitive, and tiie only certainty of a lasting future lay in the in'domitable will and unflinching purpose of a comparatively small number of citizens. The prospects of a canal cut off beyond further question, and Philadelphia and New York exhibiting great vigor in reaching out for business, it was do or die with Baltimore right there. No one knew anything about railroad building, but in this respect Baltimore was as well off as any of her rivals, as they were all in the same li. and 0. 21 boat. The principle upon which railroads should be built, and tlic cost and effect of motive powei, bo tame a subjut of edi tiest dnrl diligent iii\et) tig'ation and tions were drawn up and a committee ap- pointed to apply to the Maryland Legislature for incorporation. As the legislators of fifty or bixt\ \cais ago had no a])pre( iatioii of \} ^\ «1< « .^ notwithstanding tho ihiiat ter of the countiy between Baltimore and the West wa'. such as would ha\e appalled anj but Amei leans, \et it appealed that the greatei the banieis to be o\eicome, the more elcternuned weie the Baltimoieans to sui mount them Eaily in 1821 (on the tweltth day of Feb ruai V, to be exact,) a part\ ot the leading meiciidiits of t cit}, in numbei not exceed ing twenty five, met at the residence of one of them, and after quite an extended talk, and the advancing of an\ number of theoiies, ad journed to meet again that day week. At the second meeting a series of resolu- ndi\ idual bene i nuiin fioin suth t was _i lilted without de- I IV, being the first I ii'ioad chaitei ob t lined in the I nited "-t ites An am (dote ■- 1 elated in eonnec- II )ii with th( (liaft I X. of tlie document uhieli in the light ■-nut preigiess is at le 1st a2 Carroll of Carrollton. one. The paper having been prepared in tlie text it was read to the com- mittee with a view to its adoption. As provision after provision was gone over, and the varied and comprehensive powers which had been embraced in it were enumerated, one of the most distinguished of the gentlemen present arose and in a blunt, off-hand manner exclaimed, " Stop, man! you are asking more than the Lord's Prayer! " The reply was that it was all necessary, and the more that was asked for the more would be secured. The response to this was, "Right, man; go on." And it is needless to remark that he did go on, and perfected the charter that for more than half a century has stood the model instrument of its kind. That a great deal was asked for and secured was not only a good thing for the Com- pany, but it was the best investment of chartered rights ever made by the legislature of the State of Maryland. The first annual report bears the date October 1, 1827; and as the road at this period had reached no other form than was expressed upon paper, and the promises of the gentlemen constituting the Company, there was not much for the President to say. It was simply a general summary of the situation at the outset of the undertaking. The directors were on the lookout for an engineer upon whose knowledge and skill they might safely rely, but, as there were no engineers of any experience whatever in railroad construction, the right man was well enough to talk about but exceedingly troublesome to obtain. Immediately following the annual meeting preparations were inaugu- rated on a practicable basis to insure the actual commencement of the work. Several engineers were sent out to run lines in different directions, with instructions to report, as far as lay in their power, the feasibility of construction; and all through the winter and spring the work was carried on; and early in the summer of 1828 the formal announcement was made that the corner-stone of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad would be laid on the Fourth of July. By this time the city had become quite excited over the prospect of having a railroad, and hence it was determined to signalize the grand primary event by a celebration which would be in keeping with its importance. There was at that time but one surviving signer to the Declaration of Independence, Charles Carroll, of Carrollton, and he was fittingly selected as the man by whose hand the work was to be begun. The population of the city in 1828 was about seventy thou- sand, and judging from the reports of the celebration, the entire town for the time being put aside' everything else and paid homage to the birth of railroads in the United States. It was doubtless an immense thing to have a horse-railroad promised from the Atlantic to the "river Ohio"; and although the majority of people did not anticipate its completion beyond the distance of thirteen miles to Ellicott's City, still it was something that Baltimore had never Picturesque B. and 0. 23 ^ M 'S i ^ I \i)i ( 1 M possessed before, and which no other city in the United States liad fairly contemplated. The next annual report is dated October 1, 1828, and tells of the preliminary examination which had resulted in the conviction of the practicability of the railroad from Baltimore to the Ohio River, and announced the appointment of a corps of civil engineers and a Super- intendent of Construction; and the further statement was made that contracts had been let for the grading and masonry for a distance not exceeding twelve miles. As an instance of the honesty of the contractors of those days, mention was made that no personal security had been considered necessarj' to insure compliance with contracts. While things were apparently moving satisfactorily it was yet a fact that there were many hitches, and that almost every stockholder had a pet notion for building railroads. This was not strange, taking into consideration that there was not one among them who had had any experience in rail- way construction, and quite probably not one of them had ever seen a 24 The First Passenger Car. railroad. The engineers who had from time to time been employed were in fact theorists, and could not agree among themselves as to what was best to do or not to do. The different engineers had their friends among the stockholders and among citizens, and cliques arose in different sec- tions who proposed the adoption of measures calculated to promote the interests of certain districts and persons. The fact that such a thing as a railroad was going to be built led everybody to want it, and then, as now, there were doubtless lobbying and wire-pulling to bring about the fulfillment of individual preferences. The stockholders grew discontent- ed and divided up, some recommending one course and others arguing another. Outside persons, for their own aggrandizement, endeavored to oust certain directors to put their own friends in; and not a few of the citizens, who in the enthusiasm of the moment had subscribed for stock and afterward felt alarmed, fearing they had embarked in a bad specula- tion, began to press their shares upon the market for sale. It was certainly enough of a job to undertake to build a railroad without any experience, and to add to this the irksome task of attempting to settle quarrels was enough to have effectually damned the enterprise ; but the men engaged in it were not of that sort of stuff, and despite all obstacles held to their original plans like heroes. On the first of the following March proposals were opened for the laying of rails from Baltimore to Ellicott's Mills, a distance of thirteen miles. Two plans for laying rails had been in contemplation, the one with wood sleepers and string-pieces parallel with the iron rails, the other a stone sill or string-piece on which the iron rail should be laid. The wood sleepers were adopted, but subsequently a large portion of the line was built with stone sills. The third annual report, dated October 1829, stated that the first division of the road was in course of construction, and nearly all of the second division, extending to the forks of the Patapsco, was under con- tract. Further than this no move could be made, owing to the ques- tions at issue in a lawsuit which was pending between the Railroad and the Canal Company. Meanwhile the work on the first division was pushed forward as rapidly as the facilities of the times would permit, and on the 13th of the following May a car was passed over the entire line from Baltimore to Ellicott's Mills. On the 22d of that month the road was open for travel. The first improved passenger car adopted by the Company, and the first known in the United States, was of a decidedly primitive character, being but little more than a clapboard shanty on wheels. Its length was about twelve feet, and in addition to the boards for seats there was a deal table in the center, upon which passengers deposited their packages, and at meal-time discussed their edibles. There were three windows on either side, the driver sitting up on an elevated seat in front and the conductor standing upon the steps Picturesque B. and 0. 25 in the rear. Only one horse was attached, and he could be counted upon to make seven or eight miles an hour. The advantage of the rail- road over the ordinary stage-coach was the comparative smooth riding upon the rails, and besides that the car gave one a chance to stretch his legs and stand up if he so desired. The speed was also somewhat in excess of that upon the stage-lines, and all in all it was considered such a grand success that the Company had more 'business than it could take care of, the curious people flocking to the road to test its practical features by personal experience. And to think that this was barely more than fifty years ago, and this little one-horse road the only rail- way in all this great country 1 It \^ ci))p(.ais almost nnpossible to < om- a the ad\ , s niaii II -^-flfe / . i the past half -century; and it is only in stopping a moment, as it were, these busy times, and glancing back, that one can realize what it is to live now compared with what it must have been in those days. The fourth annual report, October 1830, conveyed the gratifying in- formation that all difficulties had been subdued, and that the Company as well as the community were in enjoyment of the useful results which had followed the completion of the first division of the road. Mark here the ruling spirit of the management of the B. and O., which has made itself manifest year after year through all the varied periods of its existence. Notwithstanding that it was not only a brand new road and a brand new company, but the only road of its kind in the country, in the very first year of its operation it commenced paying dividends, the President announcing a semi-annual payment on the first day of January. Accompanying the report of the President were the reports of the various officers. The Superintendent of the road was evidently a strong temperance man. It is further manifest that 26 Tangle-foot Irials. the evils growing out of tlie use of ardent spirits commenced with the construction of the first railroad, and injected into the report is this little homily: The destructive and demoralizing effects of the use of ardent spirits became so manifest in producing riot and other flagrant disorders, it was determined, with the sanction of the President of the Company, to prohibit the use of it in all future contracts, and accordingly all agreements entered into had a clause to that effect inserted. As the Superintendent remembers more vividly the disadvantages he had la- bored under he continues: It is believed that the work may be executed without the use of this dreadful poison more advantageouslj' to the interest of the Company, and certainly much more agreeably to its offi- cers and contractors, as well as more beneficially to the laborers them- selves. It would indeed be a melancholy reflection that a public work could not be carried on in a christian country without the aid of a maddening drink so destructive to human life and morals as to have been utterly proscribed in Mahommedan lands. In another part of the report the Superintendent mentions the fact of his being compelled to visit Ohio in January 1829, and that the journey occupied three weeks' time. The inexperience of the contractors and the want of a correct knowl- edge had the effect of placing them in a position threatening bankruptcy, all of them having underestimated the cost of the work. The Superin- tendent quite sensibly advocated an allowance which would enable the contractors to continue their work, stating that if this was not done it would give railroad construction a shock from which it would not recover for a long time. His recommendations in this respect were adopted and the good work went merrily on. At this stage of progress the Company decided that three-feet wheels were not as desirable as those of four-feet diameter, the former being harder on the animals than the larger wheels. It would appear that the horses in use upon the road were all fine stock, otherwise the gratify- ing announcement could not have been made that a speed of ten miles per hour had been reached. With this time and with proper relays the engineer remarked that this rate of travel might be continued over any length of railroad, the ascents and descents of which should not exceed thirty feet to the mile. The load for a horse on the railway was given as one car carrying twenty-five passengers. With a relay every six or seven miles this would reduce the space between the tide of the Chesapeake and the steamboat navigation of the Ohio to forty-five hours' travel. All this time no one had dreamed of the use of steam, — animals were to do the work; and even after the line was completed to Frederitik, relays of horses brought the cars from Frederick to Baltimore. At dif- ferent points along the line relays were provided, and the station now known as the Relay House, at the junction of the Main Stem and Wash- Picturesque B. and O. ing'ton Branch, received its name from the fact that It was formerly a point for the chaniring of horses. About this period steam made its ap- pearance on the Liverpool and Manches- tcr Hdilroad, and attracted attention in this country; but there was a diffi- i ulty in running- an engine on an American road. The English road was laid nearly straight, the American road was e.xceed- ingly crooked. For a season it was believed that this feature of the first American railroad would prevent the use of locomotive engines, but their practicability was soon demonstrated by a New Yorker, who was none other than the distinguished Peter Cooper. He was satisfied that steam- engines, if they could be used at all, could be applied to curved roads, and he visited Baltimore to test his faith. He came with an odd-looking contrivance which he called a steam-engine, but which a boy of the present generation would hardly consider worthy of the name of a mechanical toy. The boiler was not as large 28 II„w the Ilors,' Jleadeil Hi,,,. as that of a range in the kitchen uf a modern iiouse. It was about the same diameter, but not more tiian half as high, and had a smoke-stack which looked like an aggravated oil-can. This was the first locomotive for railroad purposes ever built in America, and drew the first passenger car ever propelled by steam upon any railroad in the world. Again the thought comes over one that this is a romance, — a sort of James' intro- duction, with a solitary locomotive instead of the solitary horseman, that might have been seen coming over a hill. The car to which this nondescript steam-locomotive was attached re- sembled an ordinary row-boat, the four wheels so placed under the center that a little too much weight at either end would transform it into a teeter. This vehicle was filled with the directors and officers of the road and their friends. With palpitating hearts they looked over to where Peter Cooper stood, and, no doubt, as he pulled the throttle-valve, wished themselves anywhere but just there. The trip was a memorable one, and sufficiently exciting to carry out the anticipations of the most venturesome in the party. When the speed of fifteen miles per hour had been reached it was deemed the very acme of lightning time, but when it was increased to eighteen miles per hour, then the millennium had come, sure enough. The ride was not without its incidents, one of which was a race with a horse which happened to appear near *^he track. Just as it was nip and tuck between steam and animal power the band slipped off the fly-wheel: the horse took the lead and won the race. Mr. Cooper, who was acting as engi- neer, in attempting to right matters severely lacerated one of his hands; and this is probably the first railroad casualty to be recorded in history. The return trip of thirteen miles was made in fifty-seven minutes, and the date August 28 of the year 1830 was never afterward forgotten by the participants in the excursion. While this successful experiment with steam did not immediately lead to the introduction of locomotives on the road, it started the best minds in the country' to studying the question, and the result need no more be told than that it is light when the sun rises. The fiftii annual report, October ISlii, opens with congratulations to the stockholders upon the increased success that had attended the opera- tions of the Company, and promised that the road from Baltimore to the Potomac River, a distance of sixty-seven and a half miles, as well as the road to Frederick, would be open for travel during the year. The Presi- dent referred to the construction of a railway between New York and Philadelphia which should connect with steamboat travel between Balti- more and Philadelphia, and found much gratification in predicting that when this combination of rail and river travel had been perfected an easy and rapid communiiatiim would be established between the three commercial emporiums. This led him to propose a line of railwaj' between B. and O. Baltimore and Washington, and he in ing of an order for the survey. So power upon the road progressed, that best-constructed engine; and the Pres mitted which upon trial appeared to He was satisfied steam-power could economy of cost which would _fully tions. The Chief Engineer of the springs, as he put it, interposed between the load and the runnii geai, had befn found to be \c formed the stockholders of the issu- far had the introduction of steam- premiums had been offered for the iident stated that one had been sub- be adapted for use upon the road, be employed at a rate of speed and realize the most sanguine expecta- Company stated that the use of 30 \V,t.s/uii;/t West as the great bar to New York's securing control of it. No stronger argument is deemed neces- sary before a legislative committee than the stereotyped reference to the Company and its unparalleled avenues to tide-water. In one way or another the Empire City manages to keep herself almost constantly in a state of fermentation on account of this road. When her railvpay kings do not make the advantages Baltimore possesses in being tvco hundred miles nearer the sea the excuse for speculation through depressed stocks, committees representing merchants who have nothing else to do are passing long-winded resolutions, in almost every paragraph of which the Baltimore and Ohio figures prominently. All this, and much more of like character which could be employed in argument, if one were requi- site, tells most effectually of the realization of the fondest hopes of the courageous men who in giving the railroad to Baltimore made her a metropolis. The names of Phillip E. Thomas, George Brown, Charles Carroll, William Patterson, Robert Oliver, Ale.xander Brown, Isaac Mc- Kibbon, William Lorman, George Hoffman, Thomas Ellicott, John B. Morris, Talbot Jones, William Stewart and .1. !,. 1). McMahon should be engraved deep in the stone of the stateliest iiKinuuicnt that Baltimore ever erected for the perpetuation of the memory of great deqds. No imposing mass of granite in all the Monumental City stands indicative of a progression to be compared with what these men accomplished for Baltimore. The first two named were the first president and first treas- urer of the Company, the others the directors, the last on the list being the author of the first railway charter ever drawn in America. Lewis McLane succeeded Mr. Thomas as President, the latter having served ten years. After eleven years of service Mr. McLane was succeeded by Thomas Swann, who remained at the head of the Company five years. The next in succession was William G. Harrison, his incumbency terminating in three years, when Chauncey Brooks was chosen. He resigned at the end of five years, and John W. Garrett was elected his successor. For twenty- four successive years Mr. Garrett has been unanimously reelected. During all the fifty-five years of the Company's existence it has had but six Presi- dents, and for nearly a quarter of a century but one. Throughout the half-century the principles of the management have been the same, and no man can place finger u|ii)ri any liiii' in its reiiiarkahle record and say that it tells of that which is not solely and absolutely for the welfare of the Company. No President has made the road the vehicle of his own indi- vidual profit. Never has the good name of the Company, as represented in its obligations, been hawked about in gambling-circles and its honor tarnished that so discredit inight result in lessening ])ul)lie confidence. Through so long a period it wnuM \ni\<- 1 n strange liad Mi>t tiie value of JHrtuw '■n> d o. :55 its bonds and stock fluctuated. Years marked by panics naturally left their impress, and the vicissitudes of the war could not have otherwise than shaken faith; but so far as lay within the power of man to avert these shocks the credit of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad has been sus- tained, and the pride of the management has been to uphold the value of its securities. The stock has never been speculative, never been forced up or down to enable one man to use the Company for his own selfish ends. The result stands out in striking contrast to that of other railway compa- nies which have been constructed in competition. The financial exhibit of the Railroad is an e.xtraordinary one: a surplus of upward of forty-three millions of dollars, and fourteen and three-quarters millions of dollars of outstanding obligations in the shape of capital stock, representing a value of fully one hundred millions of dollars, as it includes the entire main line, equipment and possessions. Of the surplus fund upward of two-thirds is interest-paying, and the balance rapidly becoming so. Such a showing in ■M Ml ,iH,} Ml Within Itself. its entirety is almost beyoiul (ndiiiaiy cciiii]iieliension, and, compared with that made by rival lines with oiilsLiiidinM stock aggregating from fifty to ninety millions of dollars, is gravely .sigiiitieant. The stock of the Com- pany has never been watered to the extent of a dollar, and the veriest of dullards can understand its strength in maintaining the positions taken when it is known that it has but to earn dividends upon less than fifteen millions of dollars, while its rivals are forced to earn dividends upon from fifty to one hundred millions of dollars. The stock of the road has for years paid a dividend of icn \hv cent, and as long ago as 1876 two hundred and twenty-five dollars per share was offered for the Garrett holdings, the par value being one hundred dollars. Recently one of the noted railway speculators of the age offered two hundred and fifty dollars per share for the Garrett interest. Practically there is no stock upon tjie market, as it is held so largely as an investment that there is no desin? to part witii it. The Fairy, in concluding his delving into the past and his portrayal of the present, looked as if the time to come was entirely too much For him, and he wisely refrained from venturing predictions. With posses- sions already secured in such \asl |>ro)M]itions that its trains run from the three leading ports of the Atlaiilic ci.asl to the great rivers and lakes of the West, traversing a thousand miles or more without break, and witli a steady revenue of a million and a half per month and a reserve fund almost unliniited, there can be no circumscribing its enterprise. In respect to the management of its own business in all its multi- tudinous details, tlie Company is the model corporation of the country. Other great lines are content to delegate the control of different branches of service to outside companies, thus practically confessing their own inability to serve the public to its fullest demands. As a house divided, so is a railroad company with too many masters. The B. and O. is under one management throughout, owning and operating its own Sleeping, Parlor and Dining cars; its own Express, its own Elevators and Warehouses, its own Dining Halls, and its own Tclegrapli lines. The one company is responsible to the public for every department of business transacted on the road, and the one executive head controls all. There are no foreign corporations of capital and power to pander to or to consult prior to the carrying out of any proposed impi'ovement or innovation upon old methods. 1 1 is of itself and in itself Ihc pcifcrl ciiibudinient of unrestrained authority oM'f all things appertaining lo iIk- roail. It has thwarted every attempt made by powerful combinations to establish absolute monopolies of tlie sleeping-car, telegraph and express systems of the United States. But for tin; B. and O. there would fo-day tie only a single combination controlling llie sleeping-car iiiauagemerit of tlie eouiiti-y. 'i'he recent absorption of tlu' one company, wliieli lias so huig \»-i-\\ operalecl independently, by the PiotHreitqiie li. and O. .ears, and always under the imme ite direction of the Company. At time it was made the nucleus of new companies formed to compete against e existing organization the agreement fully specihed that in case of absorption by tlie old uipany no part or parcel of the B. and O. system 38 L,«-ii^t ]'<.n,t. was to be iiu-luded in tiie dicker. Hence it lesidted that tin- nidUient the company instituted to alTord eonipetition to the one combination yielded to the seductive influences of the grasping monopolj', the B. and O. became an independent system. At no time since its conception has it been under- the control of otiier com]ianies; ]irovision being made in its contract witli lliem simply In. the use nl' the wires, but always through operators in the service of ihc ( 'ompaiiy. 'Phis enabled the system to be detached at an hour's notice from connection with allies, and, with officials and operators experienced in the transaction of com- mercial business, to at once enter the field for the favor of the public. The recent big deal whcicby all the idimiicrcial telegraph systems of the Union passed to the cuntn.l ..r a single individual, and the manifest destiny of a similar fate for every .system established upon a speculative basis, determined the management in refusing to enter into any more alliances, but instead to greatly increa.se its own facilities and itself become a direct competitor. This has been accomplished in the face of great impediments, and now, with offices in all leading commercial cen- ters -of the United States, the B. and O. Telegraph is a rival of no ordinary power. Within a year it will have reached an importance never attained by the Company last absorbed by the attempted aggregation, thus making it difficult for the combination to maintain oppressively high rates on such an exorbitant basis as to eiiable it to pay dividends upon eighty odd millions of dollars. Yellowstone, who certainly eoiubines much of the practical with the artistic, expressed a desire to \isit Locust Point, and the balance of the quartet being of similar minds, the management kindly placed a tug-boat at the disposal of the party, and there was a ride down the harbor, which proved instructive as well as entertaining. Baltimore is peculiarly accessible to navigation, the harbor reaching into the busiest centers of the city's commerce, and the water of such depth as to per- mit ocean steamers to almo.st run their bows into town. The famous " Bay Line " steamers land within a few moments' walk of the leading hotels, as al.so do those of the "^'ork River line, and it is only a trifle farllicr ti. the piers ..f the Boston and \e\v York steamship.s. Locust Point, whi.-'h is th,. marine terminus nf the Baltimore and Ohio, is directly within the main harbor, and is I'eadily reached by .street-car lines. The (piartet went by the tug because the distance is somewhat shorter by water, and a capital opportunity would thus be afforded to note Balti- more's importance as a seaport. The sail was like a walk down Broad- way: to keep with the crowd moving one way was all right, but any attempt to skip about meant slow progress and possible collision. No more busy place could be imagined, and to tell of all the craft plying the water, of the large steamships lying at wharves, and of incoming and out- Pictnresijue li. and (). 39 4oing steamboats, would 1 equire many pages of de- tails Ben, whose early fe Baltimore was quite familiar with, knew every toot of the way down the harbor. He pointed out Federal Hill, and at once found himself in a lively dispute with Apple Jack as to whether Ben Butler marched his men uj) or down the hill, or in fact whether Ben had ever seen the place or not. Farther on Fort McHenry came in siolit, and involuntarily thoughts of Key and the inspiration which jirompted him to write the "Star Spangled Banner" came crowd- ing in and the present was momentarily forgotten. Yellowstone, dreamy and poetic under the influences of memory, e.xpressed in his face the soul given over to the consecrated past. Ben, practical and gossipy, rattled on with his historic reminiscences, paying little attention to Apple Jack's repeated corrections, and every now and then growing earnest in impress- ing upon the Fairy the importance of getting everything down in his notes. The water-view of Locust Point is an imposing one, the frontage of the Coaipany's property extending fully a thousand feet, and covered with structures of vast dimensions. To the right are the piers adapted to emigrant traffic, which are fitted up with all the requisite facilities 40 The Way Thet/ Arc Cared For. for receiving, accommodating and traiisCerring- Trom steanisliip to train. These piers belong to tlie Company, are under its actual (-ontrol, and are preserved entirely free from outside intrusion. No boarding-house strikers, money-exchanging sharpers, or any of sucii ilk, are permitted within the inclosures, and the emigrants when landed have an abundance of room, and there is nothing to interfere with their disposition of women and children or claiming of baggage as it is brought ashore. Different from the manner of landing elsewhere on the coast, the steamers sail (lirtctly to the wharf; and as the trains to carry the emigrants west are backed in upon the jiier, tliey almost literally step from the vessel on to tlie cars. At other jioints transfers are necessitated from the steamers to lighters, and it not infrequently happens that families are thus sepa- rated; and as the baggage is placed upon other lighters, reaching the receiving point in great bulk, endless worry and apprehension are thereby entailed. The foreigner in a strange land, where his language is spoken by only a few, and wliere everything is so new, if not indeed start- ling; is, at tlie best, to be commiserated. He feels an indescribable loneliness: the memories of his native land tug at his heart-strings, and he is in constant fear of losing wife, children or baggage. At ports where several ships are discharging at once, and where it is impossible to prevent these strangers from becoming almost helplessly confused, the strain upon them in hunting for their relatives and friends among thou- sands of others in the same condition must be exceedingly severe. Then again the transfer from the receiving station to railroad depots across cities, or by open lighters up a crowded river, is another source of great anxiety; and by the time the emigrant is fairly aboard the cars bound for the West his mental faculties can hardly be of the clearest. In this half-dazed condition he becomes a ready victim to sharpers and swindlers, and is indeed fortunate if he arrives at iiis destination with sullicient money to purchase a meal of victuals. At Baltimore then- can lie no such deplorable results, for not only are the emigrants, as hitlierto stated, landed directly from the ship upon the wharf, but are ticketed on the spot, placed on board the trains, and the ('oinpany's interpreters sent with them tothi- tiTniiims of the road. All baggage is claimed and re-oheckfil as il Is unld.'idcil fruni the ship, foreign money is exchanged by an ollicial witlioul charge, and everything in the eating line is fur- nished at a moderate price. Matters are under the personal supervision of the General Foreign Agent of the Company, who delivers all moneys and letters sent under his larc In expectant arrivals, cashes orders pre- sented, and furnishes :iiiy and every itiformation desired. Speaking foreign languages (hicnlly, and liaving at his command the services of an experienced corps of int<'r|irclrrs, the emigrant, upon landing at Locust Point, is among those with wlioni he ean converse and feel at Picturesque S. and O. f- Byrne's isl lome . M, han this, ■-IILN \M)0\ readies country point two hun- dred miles iieaiei lie West, and consi ver railroad fare. He not only enjoys the opportunity of (lossiim the sea with his immediate friends, but accompanies rhem, together with his new friends made on shipboard, on the same train to his destination. But one ship at a time is allowed to anchor at the receiving piers, and, as a rule, the emigrants leave for the West within si.x hours after their arrival, — matters being so systematized that clock-work celerity is assured. The number arriving at Locust Point has become very large, a week's receipts frequently running up to three, four and five thousand. They are for a large part Germans, Swedes and Scandinavians, and there are very fevi' among them that have not sufficient funds to meet all pres- ent emergencies. There are two lines of steamships running regularly from foreign ports to Baltimore, — the Xorth-Gernian Lloyds and the Allan Line. The first-named company is a weekly line, but often during the busy season has two, tiiree, and sometimes four, ships a week coming 4'^ Fh-Kt in Effty Entcrprife. ill. The entire line is .ornposed of large and reniarl Company, and trains are run daily through to the West, on cxpnss time, loaded solidly with these bivalves. A stranger to the extent of this business would not believe the statistics if given. The Central Station is for lieavy freight, and is of inestimable con\ enience to the manufacturing interest.s, to which it is the most favor- able point for shipment. The new and extensive stock-yards located at Claremont, adjacent to the line, is another institution conceived and put into execution by the Company; indeed it would be a hard task to say just where the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad Company ceased and Balti- more began. The growth of the city and of the road has been so closely interwoven that the liberal and far-seeing policy of the latter in aiding every effort looking toward advancement is visible in all directions. There is hardly a square where the Company has not some interest. On one of the finest corners, at the intersection of two leading streets, 44 Eniploi/ers an (I Eiiijdoycs. the Company lias erected tlie finest structure in the city, and wiiich, when complete, will be the model general office building on the continent. The ground upon which it stands cost three hundred and twenty-five thousand dollars cash. The building will necessitate the expenditure of half a mill- ion more, and when furnished there will not be much left of a cool million of dollars. Seven stories in height, with the massive walls of brick laid in cement, and the staircases and window-frames and joists of iron, it will be fireproof not merely in name, but in fact. The woodwork throughout will be of hard woods, — mahogany, ash, maple, etc.; the different floors are without partition-walls and fitted up in banking-house style. It will be ready for occupancy in a few months, and will be a fit home for a road with a history every blessed soul in Baltimore is proud of. The Company's car and locomotive works are within the city, at what is called Mount Clare Station, and covers over eight squares of ground. At Mount Clare anything can be made, from a cast-iron stove to a palace car complete in every detail. The motive power of the B. and O. has for many years been noted the country over, the remarkable force and speed of the locomotives for both passenger and freight purposes having led to the name by which the road is best known, "The Model Fast Line." All the locomotives used upon the road are made complete in the Company's shops, as are also till' )i:iss(>iiger-coaches, baggage, box and flat cars, — in short, the entire >( ilii' 15. and < ), aN the picturi'sque line of America having led tci an almost boyish eagerness to taste of tlie proniisei-yond tiie city's limit, the luAAv iron horse let out on his stride and the triple tracks upon the left appeared like endless streamers of silver ribbon. To Relay, the junction of the old line or main .stem with the Washington Branch, there are four tracks, and certainly the rail rq)oti which the special made the run was not suffered to grow cold. Thr nine miles were covered in almost as many tninutes, and so perfectly u.is the air-brake handled that the stop in front of the station was as easy as driving up in a buggy. I.'clav Mouse is a charming spot, and well deserves the popularity it h.is .ittaiiii-d among Baltimoreans as a place of rcsoil dining the sniiiiiicr. The main building, which is a passenger station and hotel in one, is of cut lilue-stone, and its architectural effect is striking, — the towers, porclus anil gables presenting the embodiment of proportion and grace in a manner rarely found in structures of the kind. The interior is in keeping, being of hardwood finish, with spacious dining- rooms, parlor and private apartments, all furnished in modern style. The larger portion of the hotel looks out upon one of the loveliest views imaginable, and one could sit for hours and feast upon its varied fascina- tions. ImmiMlialely in front west is a garden of no ordinary extent, and lille.l in wondn.uslv beautiful profusion with the cfioic^st tlow.u-s and Picturesque B. and 0. foliage plants; the rich evorgreeii of the one and the exquisite contrast of colors in the other blending in a manner at once delightful and enanioring. Graveled walks wind gracefully hither and thither and fountains of play- ful waters tinkle a sweet lullaby to further captivate the senses ; while gleaming among the evergreens arises the stately monument which bears upon its marble face the legend of the Viaduct. Beyond the garden wires is the massive viaduct itself, all of granite to the very keystones of the mighty arches which spari the waters of the Patapsco. The eye, roaming on, falls upon a little leaf-embowered hamlet, Elk Ridge Landing, the whilom rival of Baltimore as a seaport. Farther on the glistening-white cozy homes tell of the sweetness of the atmosphere that surrounds them, while clusters of habitations interspersed with tapering spires pointing heavenward bespeak a reliance in even a more beautiful land. Passing to another window, in order to obtain a view of the scene to the south, its alluring aspect is not changed, for directly in front lies a grove with broad drive-ways and enticing nooks, seductively suggestive of a ramble down to the river-side. In the rear of the hotel towers a high bluff, which forms a most pioturesqu(' back- ground to a scene thus imperfectly sketched. Old-time travelers will recall the Relay House as the point where change of cars had to be made for Washington, the line thence to tlie National Capital constituting a branch and extending no farther. In those days the througli trains of the B. and O. followed the track as originally constructed away back in 1830, the primitive strap-iron having given way to the T rail. Then there was but one road to Washington, and during the war travel from the West came via the Relav House. Now the old 48 Tht XatloiHil CapUal. lino is used chiefly for freight purposes and local business, all the express trains passing directly through Washington. The scenic features up the valley of the Patapsco, which river the old line follows almost to its head, are of a high order, the track penetrating through mountain gorges and confining the width of the river to such narrow limits as to trans- form it into a series of sparkling cataracts. Ellicott's Mills, the point to which the road was first constructed, is a romantically situated place, and still retains great prominence in the production of flour. Although loth to leave so picturesque a center as Relay, the quartet boarded tlie car again and started, to make no more stops until Wash- ington was reached. Eighteen miles from Baltimore is Annapolis Junc- tion, at which point trains destined for the capital of Maryland and the United States Naval Academy are switched off the main line and pro- ceed to destination. Just across from the depot the Company owns an extensive tract of land known as Irving Park, on account of its pre- senting so many pleasing features in the way of woodland and lawn. This felicitous spot has become a favored resort for picnicing during the summer. A few miles farther and Laurel, a winning little village, is passed; and on a hill ten miles beyond is the State Agricultural College. Thirty-four miles from Baltimore is Bladensburg, rendered historic from the fact that just beyond the pretty hamlet is the ford across which the British charged in 1814, the raihvay passing directly over the ground where the fighting was most severe. Near by is the notorious dueling- ground which those conversant with the early history of the country need not be told was the spot where many brave men bit the dust. But a little farther and the dome of the Capitol is seen rising far above its surroundings and at once calling to mind what has, is being, and will be done in the future beneath its statuesque apex. WASHINGTON. TiiK depot may truly be said to lie in the very shadow of the Capitol, as it is but a square distant. Street-car lines radiate from here to all the many placfis of interest in the National Capital, the passenger having but to state whither he would go to be directed to the proper car, and a nickel is all the (^xjx'nse necessary to bring him to his destination. To the Capitol itscll', thusc wlio do not care to proceed direct to their hotel, or perchance havr no intintion of making an extended stay, is within a I'icturtxque B. ^ West \s stop ^^^t^M giantfd upon tht •Pe=---H^i» j«6S: '■ i- iV^ ^^^£ BKOOK ANL) SPKINC — UOCK ENON. 50 77y.' Ihu,,ij. by other trains. There are iiiany who come from the West via the fast express, which is now known tlie country over as the Daisy train, who arrive at the National Capital at noon, lay over, and take the B. and O. night express for Philadelphia, New York or New England points, as the case may be. This train is indeed a lively one, for while it leaves St. Louis and Cincinnati at the same time as trains upon other lines, it reaches Washington half a day in advance of them. To parties desiring to stop over for a few hours no other train can approach it for con- venience; in fact no other train will bring them to the capital before late supper-time. Almost equal advantages are enjoyed by those who come from Chicago via the Baltimore and Ohio road, as its evening- express arrives an entire night ahead of corresponding trains on rival railroads. The fact of the matter is that this line enjoys incomparable advantages so far as Washington is concerned, as it is the only one passing through the city and tiie only route by which passengers may experience the pleasure of a visil vn i.)utc without additional expense in the matter of tickets and cxtr:! hours of travel upon the road. By all other lines the fare is greater to the East or to the West via Wash- ington, and none except the B. and O. sell tickets of this description via the National Capital. Another pleasing opportunity is offered those who take this road, and that is a trip to Mount Vernon. This can readily be accomplished by arriving on the morning train and resuming travel by the evening train. The steamer, which by the way is one of the largest and most elegantly fitted up of any upon the Potomac, leaves every morning from Seventh- street wharf at ten o'clock and arrives at Mount Vernon about noon. The tomb, as well as the mansion, is ever open to the inspection of visitors, the only .stipulation being that the parties shall not be too numerous at one time. An excellent meal is provided by the ladies in charge at a very moderate price, and the stay of two hours may be rendered one of much enjoyment. The steamer reaches the wharf on the return trij) about four o'clock, giving the tourist several hours to remain in the city before departure. ON THE POTOMAd Plu.l.lNii out of Wasliiiiglcin the special glided along slowly for some distance in order to give the quartet a comprehensive view of the City of Magnificent Distances, as the capital is frequently termed. Cer- tainly it well repays the traveler, even should he decide not to stop Pirtur,f.-i,,no. n. (W(l <). o\ei hen to t ik the BaltHiiort i.ul Ohio road, as dii excellent panoianid of the beauties of the city (an he ol) tained the car windows, — a matter vvhii^li \v to be duly appreciated. Gradually the Capitol dome faded from sight, and as the train dashed along — so swiftly, yet so smoothly — the spirits of the quartet were augmented, and a sample of what the road could do in the way of fast time was enjoyed to the utmost. Soon the track carried the train through a heavy growth of timber, out of which the locomotive plunged and there burst upon the view the clear, sparkling bosom of the Potomac. At once there eaine over the party that quietude indicative of a retrospect, 52 Frtdtrlck ami lUtrburn. and of memories taking such deep possession as to well-nigh shut out all r(>inembrances of the present. The first note to break the silence was the tuneful whistle of Apple Jack, and as it filled the ear it took the shape of carrying the three older members of the quartet back to the days when " tenting on the old camp-ground " was nearly, if not quite, the national hymn. "All quiet on the Potomac" stood in the mind's eye as vividly as it used to years ago, when the anxious ones at the hearthstone unfolded the morning paper eager yet fearful to learn the latest from the seat of war. The Potomac! How the very word recalls the past, and how hallowed its every letter in the memory of, alas! too many who never heard more from precious husbands or darling brothers or sons than that they fell where the river flowed deepest. But the living beauty of the present summoned back from the dead past the thoughts of the behold- ers, and the artistic eye of Yellowstone glistened through the tears as his ladtivated nature responded to the scene. Nearer and nearer to the banks of the noble river drew the train, and each succeeding mile unvailed new fascinations. It was the loveliness of valley with only a reminder of the grandeur of the mountains in the. shadowy outlines of a far-distant peak of the Blue Ridge. Trees royally profuse in foliage leaned lovingly over the waters as if wedding them to closer embrace, that the emerald of the virgin leaf might kiss the purit}' of translucent ripple. Anon the l)anks extended down even to meeting with the waters, while again their precipitous height overtowered them, and the oaks and the elms were pic- tured more perfectly in the mirror-like surface of the river than artist- hand could ever reproduce. Through the arching branches glimpses were gained at intervals of cozy homes, of golden-hued valleys, of flocks of sheep and herds of kine. Nothing in stronger contrast to the war's dread front could be imagined than this succession of pastoral scenes; and one could hardly believe that upon this very ground, and within this very vision, armies had struggled for the mastery, and the soil of the earth Tiow so rich and green in its plenteous verdure had been deeply dyed in precious blood. A shrill whistle, a slight and hardly perceptible pressure upon the air-brakes and the engine ceases its puffing and stands at rest at Washington Junction, — the intersection, it will be remembered, of the old line with what is known as the Metropolitan Branch from Washington to the present main line of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. Some ten miles east of the Junction, on the old line, is Frederick Junction, the city- being at the terminus of a branch three miles long. The older section of the city is must |iirtuiul 0. difference of opinion as to the cxiic-t basis upon which the poem was con- structed, and tliere is hardly a doubt but what the poet indulged in considerable license in perfecting his rhythm and rendering exciting his incidents. That there was a staunch and cletermined unionist in the person of an old-lady resident is a fact lieyond question, as also that 54 />'y //" Jiirn- Side. this good dame, in tlie patriotic impulse of her sentiment, herself in unmistakable terms and witli a good deal of vehemence. At all events the poem was a stirrini:- one and stands worthy of ever re- maining among the loved memciilus df the war, Frederick is one of the attractive places which have lent mu h lusti'i' to the good name of Mary- land. The modern section evidences not only a liberal, free-handed people in the construction of liusine.ss-houses, but the residence streets prove the development of the iiighest culture in architecture and sur- roundings. There is not a more engaging place at first sight in any state, and the entertainment of visitors is ever such as must increase rather than diminish the favor born of initial impressions. The city was more or less affected bv the armed contentions between the North and the South ; still no very great harm was done, the sympathizers on both sides having frequent opportunity to testify practically to their convictions by affording much material sustenance to their friends. At Frederick Junction the ! ittle of Monocacy was fought, — the Union forces under connnand of General Lew. Wallace and the Confederates under the lead of .lubal Early. This was in 1804, and some ten thousand men were engaged on either side. The result was that Wallace was forced to retreat sustaining a decided defeat. The river at the Junction presented a new phase, indicative of the narrower confines that further west restricted its How and caused it to break into cataracts, into whirlpools, and into cascades of surpassing seemliness. This new portrayal of the ])icturesque lent exquisite contrast to the placid breast of the canal which .skirts the banks of the river and follows graceful curves between it and the railroad-track. The growth of tree, of bush and of ferns on the liMiiks was of such lu.xuriance as to paint rare pictures upon the mirulllcil larc of the water; and looking beyond, the surging Potomac, now rushing like lightning between mon- strous boulders and anon plunging over them with a resistless force, formed a background and a centerground wiiich needed only the majestic peaks overtopped bj' a radiant sky to make the whole such as to carry Yellowstone away with enthusiasm, and lie determined to go no farther until he had transferred it to canvas. Tliis resolve on his part was only too gladly acquiesced in by Ben, Apple .l.nk. and the Fairy as well. The stories told of the black-ba.ss that wcic wailing to be deftly lifted from fclieir native (^lenient IkkI in.'hlr I hem eager to try their hand on the gamy fish, and il limk \,\\{ a i iimt's consultation to decide tiiat the car sliould be taken li.ilf a mile lailher on and side-tracked at Point of Rocks. Here lived two uf tiie most noted lisheniien on the Potomac, the one tiie agent of t he Coinpany at the station and the otiier the pro- prietor of a little .stc.re. wlio nevc-r bothered witii business when there was gocd lishing to he had and a llrst-elass p.arty to participate in it. .\pple PiHurcitfjuc li. inid <>. Jack had brought along a reel and a book of flies which would have delighted old Izaak Walton. The Fairy had also taken good care to provide himself with the necessaries for such an occupation; and although Ben declared he had never participated in the sport, in the next breath he insisted upon it that he could get away with the best man in the crowd on bass. Yellowstone consented to experiment upon the cuii'ning denizens of the shady pools, but with the proviso that he should have time to make such sketches as he desired, as he was out for the enjoyment of the picturesque, and not particularly for the gratification of his fondness for the rod and line; still he allowed that he would not be behind-hand in the extent of his string of trophies when night came on. Thus it was that all four quietly determined to extract all there was out of a day upon the Potomac bass-fishing. No trouble was experienced in securing the coiip- eration of ^^^^^^^ the agent and the storekeeper, they them- selves ^^^HH^^^^^^^. kmdly arranging for the boats and for baits, and pledging that everything should be m readiness at daylight next morning The fact tliat these old angle seited that it took minnows to tempt • -i-m.'.^-JSpmKtMf'-^'^SSSi^^^W^^^^^ bass staited Apple #' /wlHHK^^^f^ll^^Hi Tack SIIKNANDOAII ALUM. or, /J/ar/,-nos.^. defense of his claim, to wit, that bass would not look at minnows when a blue hackled fly or a coachman lay temjjting-ly upon the surface of the water. The agent in a good-natured way explained to Apple Jack that he was rather fresh to tell him how black-bass should be taken from the river, by the side of which he had been born and raised. This made no difference to the young man, and to his credit it should he recorded that he so far prevailed upon the at first obdurate tisiiermaii as to promise to cast a fly next day and give it a trial. For a change the quartet left the car to \;tkf up tlicii- aliode in the inn that stood upon the bank of the canal, — a tiiiic-tricd ddniicile with low ceilings, long, sloping eaves, moss-covered roof, and other evidences of good old age. Tt was out of the usual line of sleeping-places, and there- fore the more to be enjoyed. The proprietor, a characteristic country " mine host," was grizzly of beard, large of paunch, and slow alike of speech and of movement. He did not know about having breakfast quite so early as the most enthusiastic of the party wanted, as he had had considerable experience with city fishermen and knew their fondness for the bed when the gray streaks in the heavens tell of the approaching day; nevertheless he good-naturedly promised to have everything in readiness at tiie proper hour, and the quartet sought apartments, and thereafter the stillness of night was broken only by the outrageous tunes Ben practiced on his nasal organ. Boots, shoes, a reel or two, and other gentle reminders of the ve.xation of spirit this midnight discord had upon the others, seemed not to affect the soulful slumbers of the aggra- vating fellow, and next morning he maintained by all that was good and bad that he never snored, the disarranged appearance of things about the head of his bed and on the floor immediately adjacent thereto to the contrary notwithstanding. After more or less persuasion on the part of the landlord he succeeded in getting the Four up ne.xt morning, and the way the breakfast was demolished was a caution to every hotel-keeper to be careful in entertaining strangers at regular rates. The first thing in order proved to be a novel ride upon tin- c-ukjI. The boats were attached by a long rope to an old gray horse, wliirli liy dint of much clubbing managed to keep in a trot and convey the party to a ])oint some three miles distant, where the services of the angular quadruped were dispensed with, the boats hauled over the canal bank into the river and the .sport of the day comnHMncd. Despite the inexperience of some of the ])arty the result was all tliiit tlir iiuist sanguine had anticipated, — the bass numerous and the holes plenty, and the fish as game as ever that were so unfortunate as to take hold of a minnow at the barbed end. The only mishap of the day was Ben's involuntary and wholly unexpected bath. He had \u-i-n l)o!dly rlainiiiiii- for hours that he was goinj;- to strike a genuine 58 A Strike and the. Result. removed his number twelves, s:it (iii the Ikiw, and the waters of the Poto- mac laved his feet. In this awkwaicl pcisitimi he did strike a big one, and it was worth a day's journey, to an nld hand at landing- a fish, to witness the predicament that black-bass put him in. 'Hn- fish, which was evidently a six-pounder, pulled very hard, and lien, tiled of holding him with his left hand, and reeling with his right, changed hands, got the reel upside down, and with his body bent over in the shape of an aggravated U he halloed at the very top of his voice for his oarsmen to bring the landing-net. The absurdit}^ of this request may !"■ lust appreciated when it is stated that he had fully fifty yards of lim- out, and the balance of it so tangled up on his reel and around his wrists that to wind was a total impossibility. This was the situation when he determined to, as he expressed it, snatch the fisli bald-headed. The result was tliat the line parted and Ben lost his balance, and in an instant the waters hail elosed over hi§ manlv form. Tlie rescue was piomiit, Iml I'xri. instead of being discomfited liy the entirely unusual C[uantity of water he had startled his stomach with, expressed his unalterable determination not to go ashore and dry off: he would .stay there and catch that fish yet, if it took him all summer. Aside from the excitement of the fishing, the iloat down the river was one of the greatest pleasure; and it woidd be sad indeed to imagine any man with soul so dead to nature as not to i)e thrilled by the exquisite scenes opened up at every turn of the Potomae. P'rom (in<> immense rock in the center of the stream an enchanting view of ilarper's Ferry, seven miles distant, was obtained, and Yellowstone could hardly be induced to leave it and go on down the river. The day's catch was an excellent one, the fish numbering fifty odd, and ranging from five pounds five ounces down to half a pound, the average e.xceeding two pounds weight. Point of Rocks is a capital place for fishermen to visit, as there are good accommoda- tions in the way of inns, boats, oarsmen and bait. The charges for services are quite moderate, and as it is so near the largo cities of the East one has to spend but a night on the cars to have a day's sport and reach home early the second morning. HARPER'S FERRY Retukninc; to tiie ear, I lie (.nler was given for the start again; ami it lazarding nothing to claim that there is not a ten-mile stretch on any t whieh extends fnim Point of l.'oeks to Harpers Ferry. The point is .so Pk-t urisqi named from the fact that the load way passes through a tunnel at the base of a innuufairi i>f ik iiK 1. IS It \M re, the Blue Ridge. 'I'he Valley the Potomac narrows either side the Mse gradually to tlie btatehnesb of mountain grand- I, the river, hemmed in more closely, gaming m velocity of current •ontrasting strongly with the peaceful of the canal which still follows the )f the road. The foliage gains new wealth of color, and the occasional open- ings that permit the ej'e to roam on for miles up the river are like glimpses of another world. At Catoctin the granite opens up to a considerable width, and for seven miles the road runs through a little valley appropriately known as Pleasant. At the west end is Weverton Junction, the intersection of the B. and (3. branch running to Hagerstown, twenty-four miles distant, crossing Antietam Creek near Keedysville, and in full view of the mountain upon which were McClellan's headquarters, and from whence he issued the orders for the march on to Sharpsburg. The bloody battle-ground of Antietam is but three miles from Keedysville, and it is accessible by stage. Hageistown is another of the old-time pictures(^ue settlements of Maryland, and for artists one of the most interesting places to be found anywhere in the country. Despite its years it is an active and energetic business center, peopled by solid men, who, whife they may do business a good deal after the fashion set them by their fathers, operate upon a sound and reliable basis. Hagers- town, althoug-h more or le.ss the center of oi)erations during the war. did IDIOTIC 60 ir/icrr T/nvr States Meet. not suffer to any great extent. Lee, retreating from Gettysburg, held it for three days, throwing up earthworks, which still remain. On tlie night of the third day the Federal forces drew up to such close quarters that a retreat was made across tli<> river and the TTnion men gained pos- session without opposition. From Weverton Junction the three miles to Harper's Ferry was fairly through the very heart of mountain fastnesses, precipitous piles of granite rising up to a tremendous height and dwarfing the train until it was by com- parison but as a puny antagonist flying in the grizzly face of rock-ribbed power. The volume of water in the Potomac, increased by the How of the Shenandoah just above, becomes a torrent in impetuosity, and so eager to find its way to the sea that it froths and fumes to a whiteness absolutely indescribable in beauty. The ruins of houses long since passed into decay, with tall chimneys attempting in their scrawny dimensions to rival the towering masses of rock beside them, add to the general effect, while the climbing ivy-vines, the willows, the gnarled weather-beaten pines, all help to form pictures which follow in such rapid succession as to almost bewilder the eye and cause one to wish that the train might stop so as to permit of a single view out of all these witching scenes. On the opposite side the grand domes of the Blue Ridge extending into old Virginia loom dark and frowning, as if the Shenandoah, in cutting its way through them and dividing state from state, had enkindled an anger which ages would never efface. Beyond Virginia and into West Virginia, the base of the two states, ending in the swift-flowing .stream wliich separates them, starts abruptly up Bolivar Heights with Harper's Ferry at their feet. The train, still upon the opposite side of the river, winds its sinuous way beneath Maryland Heights, which .soar ;ihn(ist into the clouds, the highest point fully thirteen hundred feet above the level of the river. To describe the meeting of these three mighty ma.sses, forest-crowned and hoary-headed with age, the Potomac and the Shenandoah joining in one stormy torrent, the long, narrow vista up the Potomac, the glimpses of the Valley of the Shenandoah, the symmetrical steel bridge in the foreground, the old-fa.sh- ioned houses in Harper's Ferry, the extended walls of the ar.senal which has for many years been in ruins, with naught but the chimneys to tell of its former importance; Jefferson Hock high upon the heights back of the Ferry, and over all the warm Italian sky of September: to behold all this with the eye one can dc, lull tc tninsronn t., the cold regular lines of type, — impossible. Ben had telegi-aphed ahead for a team to meet the quartet at the depot, and upon going to it the character of vehicle, drijer and horses proved well in ke(;ping with the surroundings. The beasts of burden were both aged, but one had h:id tin' adxanlage of unrestricted develop- ment in earlv life, while the otluM h;i(l rvidftitly met the trials of exist- Pi>-titns,jiie B. and 0. 61 ence too soon, and never readied tliat growth which otherwise might have been attained. The reinsmaii was an old stage-driver, and, as is usual witli such characters, had hardly become acquainted before he began to tell of driving Horace Greeley on that memorable ride of the philosopher in Colorado. An old, old story told over again, it nevertheless served as an introduction to the familiarity which existed to the end of the peregrinations in and about the historic spot. Mean- while the quadrupeds made, to them, their tedious way up the principal street, which is upon an incline of about forty-five degrees. On either side homes and places of business of ancient construction are mounted almo.st literally one above the other, and it would not be difficult for a ! down upon the roof of another person to iniagii and breaking: hi; le the falling off ^ neck. The ride usual, became pensive, insist- ing upon it that the street alone was worthy of a week's journey upon the part of any artist to take in its full pic- turesque effects. Once at the top of the thoroughfare, the view unfoldeci of novelt id Veil >-stoii 6-2 Jef,;:' were irregular stones so placed as to afford a stairway, as it were, 111 siinnuunt the inclosure, through which the party passed to that his- toric promontory, Jefferson's Rook. Here it was that President Jeffer- son stood and dr:ink in :i scene which he eloquently affirmed was worth a journey over the AtLiutic. "Standing," he says, "on a very high point of land, on the riojit comes tiie Shenandoah, having ranged the foot of the moiinliiins m hundrcil miles to seek a vent: on the loft ap- proaclies the I'otonjac, in (|ucst of a passage also. In I In- moment of their junction they rush together against the mountain, rend it asunder and pass off to the sea." During all the years which have passed since, the rock has been preserved as carefully as though its material were most precious. As time nnderniined its base, props were inserted to keep it in place, and tin' insciiptirm is still kept intact giving the date of Jefferson's visit. Tlie dillcrent momliers of the quartet climbed up to the rather difficult standing-jioini , .ind the expressions which escaped from one and another as the summit was reached bore strongest testi- mony to the unparalleled sublimity of the view. Directly within the range of vision were three states: Bolivar Heights, upon which is Jeffer- son's Kock, are in West V^irginia; the north and south banks below the meeting of the rivers are called Maryland and Loudon Heights; the Potomac, is the dividing line between Virginia and West Virginia, which is about a mile east of Harper's Ferry and nearly parallel with the Shenandoah at that point. Looking directly down a thousand feet or more the track of the Valley Division of the H. and O. is seen, and the eye may follow it up the Shenandoah until lost among mountains in the distance. 'I'lie liver itself is a I.e.-iutifiil streiini. and li.'i-e ;in(l there where the close meeting of immense bouidcu's has stopped the current it breaks over them in merry, dashing waterfalls. The grandest view of all is yet to come, and the quartet, scrambling back into the vehicle, drove by a narrow and steep road down into a valley, and, almost imme- diately thereafter commenced another climb, which ends upon the highest ground on Bolivar Heights. The Fairy, who had grown so disconso- late in attempting the description of Harper's Ferry and surroundings as seen from the cars, l)ecan)o almost dispirited as he took full view Picturesque /,'. and O. of the scene from the latest point of observation. It was of no use, lie rleclared, to essay details; and "beyond description" was a hackneyed term. He had, however, never before comprehended its meaning to the fullest, and he was perplexed to know what to say or where to commence. Backward was the Valley of the Shenandoah; to the right the Potomac below Harper's Ferry, the view showing through Loudon Heights on the one hand and Maryland Heights on the other; away down in the foreground Harper's Ferry, with John Brown's Fort and the arsenal ruins, the tumble-down buildings and the bridge. The eye rising from 64 Th< Him and the Uraij. that roarns so far away as to endeavor in vain to outline every object within its range. To the left is the Potomac, again skirted by towering mountains, the lines of one merging into those of another, and the whole forming into graceful masses, reflected where the current had been stopped and where grand mirrors lay like seas of molten silver in tlie sunshine. Yellowstone commenced sketch after sketch, tearing them to pieces one after the other as new inspirations seized upon him; and finally he left the balance of the party, sought a place where he could be entirely by him- self, and remained there until darkness compelled him to postpone further operations until morning. Ben and the Fairy gradually followed back along memory's path to the war, and as both had carried muskets, Ben with Lee and the Fairy with McClellan, there was much in the scene before them to talk about. Old soldiers very rarely fall into disputes, or are tempted to let their angry passions rise by reminiscences of the times that tried' men's souls. Those who treasure up the bitter things incident to the war have a purpose in so doing; and very few indeed of these crea- tures ever smelled gunpowder, their fighting consisting chiefly in mouthing in safe places at home. Old antagonists, who always appreciate and remember the bravery exhibited on both sides, and who ever bear willing testimony to the little sweet there was found in those days, meet now upon common ground, and discuss as pleasantly and as quietly as if sectional strife had never divided them. In all the area ovei' which the war made its history there (•.•ni lie fimnd iii> one i-i-iitci- nf inure niciMn-ntnus events than Harper's Ferry. Mere it wa.s that the war had il.s liirth, for in that primitive burg which Ben and the Fairy looked down upon .John Brown fired the first gun. The scheme then inaugurated looking to an insur- rection among negro slaves was the keynote. At the time, it is needless to state, there was a wide diversity of opinion as to lirown's c-ourse; and there were very many who afterward Ihm-jhilc tin- stroni^cst advocates of the Government in crushing the ( Vnifccicracy, who (leiiounced him in no measured terms. Little did tiny or any one .Isc dream llicii that the strife at Harper's Ferry would extend nntli It divided families, friends, and the country. Nothing could be gained by discussing pros and cons, and history has not become so vague as to necessitate any lengthy i-e- counting here. All know well what became of .John Brown and his men. The engine-house which scr\c-d liim as a foit.anil whiili still stamls within the arsenal grounds, is In plain sight of the train, and he u ho rc\<'rently or otherwise looks upon the building may call to niiiul the part which it has played in the country's aimals, and remember it as pleases him best. Early in the spring of 18fj] Harper's Ferry was occupied by Generals Joe Johnson and Stonewall .lackson. The i<\(lera! troops were encamped almost immediately opposite at Sandy Hook. Tin e.\|ierience of passen- PiHvri'sqnc B. and O. gers on board the B. and O. trains during this period was of a character not altogether pleasant: stopped on the Maryland side of the river by the Union forces, and again on the Virginia side by the Confederate forces, a man had to be careful and remember to just which power he had last given allegiance. In a few weeks the Confederates evacuated the Ferry, mov- ing to Winchester, the Fed- erals taking possession and holding it until September 1862, when General Stone- wall Jackson captured it and compelled Colonel White, the Federal commander, to surrender with eleven thou- sand men. The Union forces were paroled and Jackson marched immediately to join Lee at Antietam. Harper's Ferry is about ten miles from Sharpsburg, where the battle of Antietam was fought, the Confederates speaking of it as the battle of Sharpsburg ha\l toi a itomi-biu because McClellan's headquarters were on the edge of that town, and the Federals calling it the battle of Antietam because it was fought along the creek of that name. The great cemetery is at Sharpsburg, and in it may still be seen Lee's Rock. Little or no trouble is experienced in reaching Sharpsburg or Antietam, either by taking the Washington County branch" from Weverton, thence twelve miles to Keedysville and two and a half miles by stage, and the stage fare only a quarter each way, or by leaving the main line of the B. and O. at Kearneysville. The Confederates never occupied Harper's Ferry after the battle of Antietam, but it was throughout the war the scene of much uncertainty, as it was largely the center of operations on both sides. Where Ben and the Fairy stood upon Bolivar Heights nearly all the ground referred to as covered by the operations of both armies at Antietam was in full view. To the right. South Mountain, where the battle had been fought prior to Antietam, and where McClellan pressed Lee so strong that he fell back through Boonsboro and Keedysville, seven and a half miles to Antietam, fighting all the way. Fully as distinct was South Mountain itself, where ex-President Hayes was wounded, and whence he was taken down a few miles to a farm-house for treatment and attention. Meantime, and on the day of the battle of South Mountain, Stonewall Jackson fought on Bolivar Heights, where he captured a large number of Union soldiers, as hereto- fore stated. From his elevated position he saw the smoke of Antietam, and hurrying his troops down and following the river to Shepherdstown, and thence to Antietam, he arrived there and saved Lee from annihilation. His corps was placed in position and, being fresh, crowded McClellan back two miles or more to the creek and captured every position but the bridge, which was held by Burnside, and which was the key to the situation. That night Lee crossed the Potomac at Shepherdstown, and was followed by McClellan, who unsuccessfully attempted to prevent further retreat. From Shepherdstown Lee returned on tlie second morning to Martins- burg and Winchester. General Reno, who commanded the advance corps at South Mountain, was killed in the fight there, having attacked Lee early in the morning and worsted him. After the fight at Antietam a por- tion of the army pursued Lee to Winchester, but the main command under Burnside proceeded to Weverton, a mile and a half below Harper's Ferry; crossed the river there and recrossed it at Berlin, one and a half miles farther down, and thence marched to Washington. From the Heights also was seen the stretch of country General Lee traversed with his army on the march to Gettysburg. At this time Maryland Heights just beside was occupied by two thousand Union men under the command of Gen- eral French. Lee's army crossed at Shepherdstown, and recrossed on his retreat from Gettysburg at Falling Waters, which is plainly discernible. Ben and the Fairy stood there for hours going over the might-have- Picturesque B. mid O. beens, awed meanwhile in the almost immediate presence of the terri- tory figuring so prominently in the history of the past. Many a man could sit for a day upon Bolivar Heights and tell of the part he had played in fixing the destiny of the country; and no insignificant num- ber of old soldiers have stopped over at Harper's Ferry, have climbed the Heights, and stood there as will their children in the future. No place will be more sacred, no point more absorbing in its interest, and no spot more cherished. The pilgrimage of the quartet for the day ended iti an invigorating ride down the Heights on the west side of the railroad-track, which was followed up a short distance to a locality of uiueli interest, known as the Rattling Springs. The road thither, after reaching the level of the river bank, is through lines of trees wliich meet high up and form an archway almost the entire distance. The spring is exceedingly picturesque, the water issuing from the base of a stalwart ledge of rock a hundred or more feet high, and surmounted by tall pines having their roots in the rock itself. All about it is dense foliage, and as one places his ear close to the granite the water may be distinctly heard percolating through the hidden crevices and finding its way out of the narrow aper- *^t 1 (^C5ii /• '^ j: '^'"'^ ** *^'^ bottom. The sun was just setting as the start was made for the car, and on the way the effects were so WALLAWnATOOLA 68 Th,' Slunandwih. perfect, the lights and shades so rich, the water so clear and sparkling, that every inch of the retreating glory of Old Sol was witnessed with regret. It was still light enough to make the run over to Byrne's Island, owned by the Railroad Company, and which has been beautified in so many ways that for excursion and picnic parties no more pleasurable place could be imagined. The island is situated just above Harper's Ferry, and its romantic little nooks, its natural bowers, its sloping lawns, and charming views of water and distant mountains, form pictures over which the artistic might linger for hour upon hour. It would be difficult to attempt to place, in the order of their attraction, the many centers of interest in and about Harper's Ferry; and as the vicinity has been in the past, so will it long continue to be in the future — a place where no man can visit without pleasure and profit. THE VALLEY OF THE VIRGINIA. Mari'kk's Ferry is at the western extremity of the grand valley known north of the Potomac as the Cumberland, and south as the Valley of the Virginia. This latter was the objective point now reached by the quartet; hence instructions were given to transfer the car from the main line to the Valley Branch of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, which commences at the Ferry. The special fairly under way, it followed tlie base of Bolivar Heights, ])assing under the shadow of Jefferson's Rock, and bej'ond out into an open space showing the neat village of Bolivar on the Maryland side, while upon the Virginia side Loudon Heights were in full view, with their base ending abruptly in the waters of the Shenandoah. The river, not far distant, breaks into exquisite cataracts, falling in some places from fifteen to twenty feet. Ten miles from Harper's Ferry the train cajne to a brief halt, at Charleston, one of the liistoric points of the early days of the war, and also the spot where John Brown, with his compan- ions, was tried and hung. Seventeen miles farther and Stephenson's Di'pot, V'a., was reached. At this point passengers leave the railroad and take stage for Jordan's White Sulphur Springs, one and a half miles distant. As this resort was upon the visiting list of the quartet the special was run iqton a side-track and preparations made for a trip in the wiiucm which sfixid waiting. It was roomy enough to ac- ooinniiHhiti', (|uilc rcmiforlably, fnini fifteen to eigliteen people, and the Picturesque B. and 0. horses starting off on a brisk trot the party whirled over to the springs in almost tio time. The location proved to he a very pleasant one. The surrounding hills were covered with a luxu- ^ ~~' riant vegetation, and i.oMi. and O. ^^U ^^ .^^^% band all the details of ship, his promises, and his expectations of future happi Of the interesting information imparted by the dusky jehu was the fact that the conveyance in which the party was so snugly ensconced was a " Virginia Fix." About everj'- thing on wheels was known in that part of the country as a " fix and the negro, in explaining the different forme of fixes, perpetrated many cute sayings, and added not a little to the quartet's knowledge of the manners and customs of the old-time Virginian. Meantime the "fix" had reached the top of a high hill back of Winchester. From here the vista possessed a world of attraction. On the one hand was a bird's-eye view of the historical town, whose picturesque effect was heightened by a great abundance of foliage out of which sprang long, peaked roofs, with odd-fashioned windows, and glistening church spires. Up the valley rose mountain back of mountain, those in the foreground standing out in bold relief, whilst those behind grew more shadowy as distance lent to them that soft, hazy purple which so enhances the beauty of all romantic scenery; directly in front, an exquisite little valley with great hills beyond, and upon which could plainly be distinguished the broad, hard pike to be traveled before the springs would be reached. It was a sixteen-mile drive, but what 74 The TmnsfnruHttlo,,. with an exhilarating atmosphere and congenial company, and above all the ceaseless stream of Ben's talk coupled with the negro's rejoinders, made time |Kiss (|uickly, and almost before it was fully realized the gateway of Re irk k]iiiin was at hand. The quartet, determined upon taking things as comfiirtalily and as carelessly as the hardiest of mountain explorers could wish, were arrayed in \viilr-riinni(Ml hats, flannel shirts and top-boots. Coats had been dispensed witli, as also vests and neckties; and as the ancient of days rattled up to the front of the hotel the guests were un- questionably pardonable in entertaining grave suspicions as to the true character of the crowd. There would be no use in disguising the fact that outward appearances gave semblance to the belief that the quartet were not F. F. Vs. This was brought quite forcibly to the attention of the party by the noisy reception accorded on the part of the rollicking troop of boys who in the arrival found much out of the usual routine to enjoy. Ben, quick to take in any situation, responded cheerily to the salutation of tin- younii'sters, ami fairly frenzied them with the announce- ment that fhi- "fix" i()iifaiiii-(l tPii- advancer corps of Barnum's circus. More than this, he promised them all ccjmplimentaries, and incited their liveliest appreciation of the good things to come by telling them that when the posters and hand-bills were put up the people of the entire country for a hundred miles around would flock in to the great moral show. It may be imagined that such sort of talk on tiie part of the incorrigible joker rendered the welcome none the less enthusiastic; and as tile tall and vi-iKM-alile form of the pioprietor was seen coming through th<' hall to the poreh it toije.l down a little, but still it was so demon- strative as to become somewhat irksome. The host looked askance, but upon cards being presented grew so cordial and affable that a home- like feeling at once came over the party. The first thing in order was a bath, and as the fame of the enlivening effect of a plunge at Rock Enon had preceded arrival, no time was lost in crossing the lawn to the structure wherein the swinnning-poul may well be said to be the center of interest. Porters followed with the luggage so that presentable apparel might distinguish the reappearance of the Four. At the entrance the old colored woman iiaving general charge of affairs held up her hands in holy horror, and looked as if the good man of the house had gone wrong and permitted possession to be taken by a lot of tramps. Once in the bath-house, it was closed to all others; and if anything could have been more enjoyable than the swim upon that particular day there was no curiosity to discover it. Upon coming out the dusky dame for the moment was bewildered, as she did not recognize the party, the change from rough to .store clothes having created so decided a transformation. Cogitatliii;- a luouM'iit, and li,n-ht dawninu- upon her, she lirially broke out with the e.\,laniatiori, ••'Kuic de L.awd vou was a hanl-lo,,kiir lot when Picturesque B. and O. 75 W- THE .KSTIIE'l you went in, Ijut you is gem- men now." The best part of it was that the boys failed entirely to identify even Ben, and all that day disconsolate- ly roamed about endeavoring to hunt up those circus men. The location of Rock l']non Springs in a little val- ley surrounded by mountains, the gorge to the rear creating a current ever preserving a ilelightful state of the atmos- phere, renders the resort one of the most popular in the valley. The chalybeate spring is of the strength best calcu- lated to afford relief for cer- tain forms of disease. There are four sulphur springs, also alkaline springs and spring- water, for almost every dis- ease which luckless human nature is heir to. The most 7G Th, Fix. robust of guesjs as well as the teiulerest of invalids find in the swimming- pool, which is fed by the water from several of the largest springs, an enjoyment which notliing else can afford. The table as sampled by the quartet was pronounced A No. 1 in every respect, the ride and the bath having created an appetite which required no ordinary amount of edibles to satisfy. Strangers should not labor under the delusion that the vehicle which has been described is the only form of transportation offered from Winchester to Rock Enon. The regular conveyance is a large brake- wagon, to which fleet steppers are attached, and the distance is made in an hour and a half to two hours. The party had decided to employ special vehicles frnni |)(iints im the railroad to the different springs, the plan being to visit Iwn or three and sometimes more places of resort in this way. This ducisiun was the only practicable one for the purpose, as the regular wagons or carriages were always in use for the particular resorts to which they belonged. The " fix," however, was good enough for the Four, and its oddity of make, its antique appearance and its wide seats added to the zest of the ride, making it more of a novelty; and when the negro came jogging up to the front of the hotel prepared for a twelve- mile ride over to Capon Springs the party approached it joyfully. The drive to Capon was a charming one, — up-hill and down, to be sure, but (^nlivi'iicd as it was by the sallies of Ben and the quick repartee of Appli' .l:i. k. together with reminiscences of European trips by Yellow- stoiif, and comparisons of the old country with his own, the hours passed on fast-ilying wings. The darky l>y tliis time was getting quite well acquainted with his fare, and now and then gave a .specimen of his musical ability, which was of no mean order. He sang old plantation songs with an earnestness and a purity of tone which was most agreeable; and as it frequently happened that the quartet came in on the chorus the hills fairly rang with the melody thus produced. It was a jolly jaunt, and when a sharp turn in the road down the mountain-side revealed the stately front of the main hotel, there was almost a regretful feeling that there were not six or eight miles more to travel. The sun was just setting as the horses trotted up the lovely avenue at Capon, and as the golden rays came streaming down through the ravine directly in front they lit up the scene with a rare splendor. The resort nestles down in a narrow valley, with an opening only by the main roadway, which, not far beyond the entrance to the ground, ends at Capon Lake. 'I'his is an exquisite body of water something over a mile long and liall that in width. The road from Enon down the mountain, and over whiih thi- qnartit had come, meets the main roadway in full view of the luiildirigs, ami the first sight of the place immediately warms ihr lu liokhr to it. The hotel, with its pillars, its piazzas and di'cp win. lows, stands wIiiti- its white front best contrasts with the massive lorest-ekid mountain l>ehind it. As one Picturesque B. and O. 77 drives up, the main hotel is to the right, and to the left is a line of cot- tages and bath-houses; and just back of these is a romantic little stream following its flexuous course by moss-covered rocks and at times break- ing over well-worn bould.is wiilrli shine brightly in the glowing light. Tiiroughout the entire extent "I' tlic broad avenue are august trees, gleam- ing statuary and rustic bowers, the whole forming a picture of rarest tints. At the head of the valley are clustered "'"-x. . music and other pavilions in a picturesque gorge, some of them constructed directly ■*4f^J ' over the brook, while in others one may sit for hours and gaze upon the playful „ , ,,,,, ^•^\''. waters as they dance merrily on their way. Like a schoolboy Yellowstone climbed boulders, jumped from crag to crag, and was soon upon the top of Eagle Rock, from which elevation he beheld a scene not soon to be forgotten. The Blue Ridge on the east and the Alleghanies on the west; and looking down into the valley of the Shenandoah his quick and observ ant eye detected Winchester; and more than this, he could see Kernstown and Strasburg, as well as other villages, bathed in the effulgent hues of the departing orb. From this eminence Yellowstone came down only to lead the party to other high points, and by sunset and twilight 78 Anotha- VicthH. scenes were obtained which rival those far-famed in the countries beyond the sea. Before retiring for the night it was resolved to be up at day- break, — the first thing in order to be a swim in the gentlemen's pool. There is no use of talking, nothing compares with a plunge-bath after a journey, or, for that matter, at any time. The mineral water adds a buoyancy to the bath, and swimmers who choose may take the end where the depth is over their heads, or those who are less brave may sport in the delicious water at almost any depth they desire. The springs at Capon are alkaline, belonging to the class of alkaloid carbon- ates, the waters of which are alterative, tonic, diuretic and aperient. They are both partaken of and bathed in, the appliances being extensive, and of such range as to afford every accommodation alike to the invalid and the healthful. Ca]ion is one of the largest resorts in the Valley, and it is no uncom- mon thing to entertain during the season as many as si.x hundred guests. The springs are arrived at direct from Capon Station on the Valley Branch of the Baltimore and Ohio, fifty miles from Harper's Ferry, thence si.xteen miles by stage. The drive is a combination of mountain and valley scenery which cannot but strike the heart of the coldest beholder. While there is more or less of wildness in it, there are no places to create fear on the part of the timid, as the road is well constructed and of an unusual width. The " fix " rumbled along solidly over it, and Ben so worked upon the feelings of the driver that the jehu offered to send the outfit back to Winchester and go with the party without any other compensation than his grub, as he termed it, and Ben's protecting care. The latter, however, made up a little purse that assuaged the grief of the darky upon parting, and Tom evidently felt better when, he disappeared from sight expressing himself as abundantly able to take care of the gentlemen without the assistance of any " low down nigger." All along the way to Mount Jackson, seventy-four miles from Harper's Ferry, and the next stopping-place of the quartet, the road on either side was, (luring the years of the war, the scene of sharp contests between oiiposiiig armies. In several places earthworks are still standing, but so thickly overgrown with grass and weeds that they are but the peaceful reminders of past military activity. The telegraph had been employed to insure prompt connection at Mount Jackson for Shenandoah Alum and Orkney Springs, the one eleven miles from the station and the other twelve. This time, instead of a " Virginia fix " in waiting, there was a light carriage with a pair of spanking bays, and a white driver who looked as if he might be proof against Ben's quizzing, but who, as experience proved later on, fell an easy prey to his wiles. For a change, dinner was tak.-ii at the hotel nt Mount Jackson, x\ inodci'ii buildinj;- in all Its appoint- Timitque HEALINIJ SPKINGS. a meal as can be found in many more pre- tentious places. The valley opens up some- what in the vicinity of Mount Jackson, and the well-tilled farms and general aspect of prosperity betokeii an energy on the part of the inhabitants looking to the best possible use of the gifts which nature had bestowed upon them. Soon the carriage wliirled up the preliminary incline to the mountain, and in half an hour it was winding its way over a road presenting so many picturesque scenes, as to quiet even Ben, and cause him to give the driver a little rest. It was not long, how- 80 TIk- Krreption, not the Rule. ever, before several wagons, heavily loaded with tan-bark, were met, and Ben became so interested in the product and its market price as to sug-gest very extensive business relations with tanneries. The vehicles were of various degrees of age, — some drawn by a mule and a horse side by side, another by a genuine old-fashioned jackass, a mule and an old blind horse; but the last one capped the climax, the motive power being fur- nished by an ox and a cow, with a diminutive mule, tandem. The owner of this striking equipage would have delighted Nast, for here was an exact representative of the exaggerated Southerner so frequently cari- catured. He wore the traditional large-brimmed hat, had neither coat nor ve.st, and his butternut pants were held somewhere in place by a single suspender, which evidently had at one time served as a portion of an ox-goad. The lower portion of his face was covered with a long, tawny, tangled beard, while his eyes shot out their sullen rays from beneath eyebrows large and scraggy enough to serve as eaves to an ordinary-sized barn. Ben had inquired of each man in turn the price of tan-bark, and had remonstrated with some of them for selling it too cheap. When the fellow just described came plodding along, Ben propounded to him the stereotyped inquiry, and for an answer was not over-politely requested to seek that resort which in general is considered to be rather warm all the year round. This rebuff staggered Ben only for a moment, and laughing quietly to himself he remarked, sotto voce, that if ever he should be so unfortunate as to be obliged to reside below it would be doubly irksome for him, from the fact that he would have to meet that chap again. As a rule, however, Ben's good-natured inquiries were cheerfully answered; and those who suppose that the picture just drawn of one " pesky critter," as they are so aptly termed in the South, should stand as a fair illustration of the people as a whole, have only to knock about in the Virginia Valley for a few weeks to be effectually cured of any such hallu- cination. No more generous or hospitable people can be found on God's footstool than arc the V'irginians; and so far as the war is concerned, very n-w indcM^d aiiKirii;- tlu'iii will brinii' n). tin' subject or discuss any of the <|urstl tlic ditfcrent resorts in the Valley of the Virginia will find the sann' cordial and hearty greeting whether they (-onic from the .\,,ith or Iroiii the South, and. inon- than this, will enjoy the .same o|i|hiiI unily lo laslc, lo its fullest extent, of tiie invigo- ralinu- infliienees of iiDuritaiii air, of seenerv more pieturesouo than can f 1 »i-^ 83 Pmk upon Peak. tality more genuine tliaii which cannot be found among- any pcoph- on the face of the globe. Ten miles of the way toward Shenandoah had been traversed when the carriage halted immediately at the intersection of two roads, where a couple of young girls, hurrying from the inclosure with pitcher and glasses, afforded the quartet a chance to pucker up their mouths by a good long drink of wholesome alum-water. This was the diverging point to Shenandoah Alum Springs, and a brisk trot of a few moments ended at the comfortable and cozy resort at the base of a spur of the Blue Ridge. Shenandoah Alum is not a large place, but it is just the sort of spot a man of family feels he would like to have his wife and children summer at. The hotel and cottages front on a lawn, which is so shaded as to afford the coolest of spots for a retreat to while away the day. The pro- vision for the ('njnyiiicnt of children and the little folks, in the way of croquet and kindnd outdoor sports, is all that the fondest of mothers could wish for. There are no particular pretensions to style at Shenandoah, as the aim is to insure comfort and rest without carrying the dissipations of the winter ov.er into the summer. It is a home-like resort, and the hundred or more people who a\ail tin in.si-lves of its accommodations remain, as a rule, during the hot nionlhs, and leave only when it becomes so cool as to i('<|iiii(> till' vise of double blankets at night. For health and rest it would I).' illHirult to ii:i :i more advantageous locality. The main springs consist ol alum, l)ut there are also chalybeate, sulphur, iron and arsenic; and invalids seeking the health-restoring qualities of Nature's own reme- dies may consult their physician as to whether or not waters of this ch:;- racter are best adapted for their cases. As hitherto stated, no trouble can be experienced by any one in .securing the pamphlets of the different resorts, which not only specif3- the varieties of springs, but also give rates for accommodation and other essential details. From Shenandoah Springs to Orkney is but a short ride uj) a rather steep hill, and down to the foot of it to the Springs. The view from the highest point is a grand one, and those fond of gazing upon a mul- tiplicity of mountain peaks, and of range back of range, with pastoral .scenes in the foreground, are loth to leave the point of observation until its full revelation is developed. The quartet, turning from the past to what lay before them, looked down upon Orkney with no ordinary mani- festations of the impressions whieli the sight made upon them. The commodious buildings looked eli.u'iiiingiy out upon a plateau at the foot of the mountains, with the inviting drives in almost all directions, and a broad boulevard leading up to the main entrance of the hotel. Orkney is a representative Valley resort,, with its lengthy buildings sto- ried up to the roof with broad piazzas, and its outlying cottages and music pavilions all well built and neatly painted, and presenting an aspect of ,^ s a »i ■: im ■^- t ill*. I [fiVrn'fr ' ^^--:^«£ tlie utiimst I Ibdiilliitsb and ctiii. Hit ^pnii.,^ ^-■ are on the western slope of the mountain, twenty-three hundred feet above the level of the sea. The waters are of a tonic and alterative character. One of the most favored of these springs has afforded remark- able relief in eases of dyspepsia, and others are used as baths and for skin diseases, while throughout the list are to be found specific remedial qualities adapted for the removal of almost any trouble. The atmosphere at such an altitude is necessarily pure, dry and exhilarating, and is of itself calculated to be an effective agent in the restoration of impaired health and vigor. At Orkney one can take up his abode in the hotel, or a party sufficiently numerous may together occupy a row of buildings, and if it consist of a single family all the comforts of home may be found in a cottage'. In the height of th<> , season Orkney is somewhat like a little fit\ Jl'^ There are suitable accomniod.itions for eight hundred guests, and almost no end of pleasure aftoided 84 Tl,( Sut.hfi/h<.«pii' n. iniil O. kcvstlK bittl( lagmir throiigli ^^^ ^ ' Tlu latter, ' li.ul as vet bton getting the best II w 1 11 DAM mis of It, retreated, and undercover of night crossed over and burned the bridge at Port Republic, and on the 9th suddenly fell upon Shields. Fremont was on the other side of the river, and had to look on and see Shields again routed without being able to render him any assistance. Jackson followed Shields down the Page Valley and Fremont moved his forces down the Shenandoah, fearful that he would be intercepted by Jackson, who, after resting two days, moved his corps to Richmond, arriving in time to participate in the seven daj's' fight. 86 G/oriis <',,„il.h,„ti„n.-<. Rawley Springs is but flcvcn inilo distant fnnn Harrislitirg, and a fine outfit beitig in waiting. \u> time- was lost in moving from the car to the carriage. It wonld Ipr ilillicnit to roni-eive of a more enjoyable ride than was that to UawKv. The road is like a race-track the entire distance. Tlic ( levin milis were covered easily in a little over an hour, and the first \ie\\ of l.'auley faiily made Yellowstone hold his breath. Contrary to tlie rule followed at niost of the resorts, the buildings at Rawley Springs are not located upon a level at the foot of the range, but are set in tiie mountain gorge, and the beholder might easily imagine himself in Switzerland. The architecture, also, is such as to favor the illusion, the Rawley hotel in fact being a Swiss chalet, although, perhaps, somewhat large. Iligii up between two grand moun- tains tile aseent, brisk as it is, is hardly noticed, the inspiration of the scene prec ludine aiiv physical discomfort in attaining it. The buildings are joined one to the other by covered passage-ways, and the great trees growing unreslriited througli the roomy piazzas casting so dense a shade that at no lioiu- durine- all the- day can the sun penetrate to their inner- most recesses. Some, at the lirst t liought, might think that this exuber- ance of lollaL;!- wouM iTeate a dam|iness, but a moment's pause to con- sider the elexation and the jjurity of the atmosphere would speedily dis- cover the fallacy of any sueli suspicion. As a nuitter of course the entire place is not so sheltered as to deprive it of svnilight; but the all- desirable thing in a summer resort is shade, and the Imihlers at Rawley, in sparing the noble trees by building .around llnui. not only rendered the porches delectable on a liot day, but at the same time gave the place a picturesque effect they doubtless never dreanuMl of. Between the hotel building on the steej> side of one of the mo\nilalns and one immediately adjacent to the left there is a ravine, whieh has not only the charms of a mountain stream, but within its naiiou depths tin- vision falls ujion a succession of rock, water and forest ell'eel which lan much more easily be spoken of than described. A icsc.il so located, with such advantages of shade and of air, cannot l>e oiIk rwise than a salubrious home for the summer. And it well deserves llie n.ime of home, for it is kept in the real old Vlre-ini.a style: an aliurLdan,M. ,,r ..verything go.Hl in tli.' old-fash- and all that sort ol' tiling, limited only Ky the capacity of the gu<.sts to of room .■ilfonleil lor eight hundivd persons. Whil,- there are balls and receptions, and so on to the liillesl exleul of the progrannue usually provided at summer resorts, there is but little attempt at style, the ]ire- vailing rule appearing to lie enjoyment in any and every way as best suits^the people who come. It was the good fortune ol the ipiarlet to meet at llic Sjirings a Haiti- Picturesque B. ami O. 8T more lady and her two daughters, whom to know was to obtain a fresh insight into the pleasures of com- panionship. . The mother, a Balti- more belle from her girlhood, proved how secure a foundation have the claims of the Monumental City to the beauty and the culture and the refinement of its women. The elder daughter was in the full realization of perfect womanhood, — bright of eye, charming of manner and rare of speech; the younger just budding into a stateliness of beauty and winsome ways which within a very few years will set many a man's heart beating to a tune which it will be hard for him to refrain from imparting the cause of. With this trio of comely women the quartet became individually and collectively new men. The carelessness of every-day association with each other gave way to a pride in appearances which indicated that a soft place in heart or head had been touched, and no jaunt was too fatiguing or trip to favored spot too exacting for them, to make at the slightest wish expressed on the part of their fair enslavers. Accordingly the four gallants with the three ladies strolled up lovers' walk, and when the top was reached it is still a matter of conjecture with the individuals constituting the quartet as to which was the most enjoyed, the feminine love- liness, which was enhanced by the climb in the bracing atmos- phere, or the natural beauty so exquisite in the sunset. All sum- mer resorts have lovers' walks, and if they have a promontory ten feet high it is almost invariably known as lovers' leap. The trip to the lovers' walk at Rawley is wonder- fully attractive, and accompanied as it is by a slight semblance of danger, the boys like it none the less; and the frequency with which the girls accept invitations to be helped up indicates that little thrilling episodes are not by any means objectionable. It is an alpine scramble, with the dis- tance to the valley below constantly growing greater, and when the oliiiia.v 88 r,„ltilin,n' /IrZ/r.-.: Imists upon the vision tin' ni;in in tlic iron mask, whom lrar(>ilncing the greatest beneficial results in diseases of ann?mia or dcliilitv. l''or years many of the best known sportsmen in Virginia have madr K.nvlcy 1 heir camping-ground during the summer for the fishing to be olitalii.'.l .-ilong the streams, and in tlir fall for tin- hunting in the mountains. Large game abound, and those who have a desire for close companionshij) with bear, deer and elk may hero lie accommodated. The fair dainc ,in.l Imi- daughters from Baltimore were spending the season at Whit.- Sulphur Springs, having run down to Rawley for a short visit with friends stiip])irig there The impressions resulting from the acqualnlanee appeared to bi- mulual, the ladies readily accepting Picturesque B. a)id O. 89 the invitation of the quartet to make the ride back to Harrisonburg together. An extra carriage was secured and the party started off in high spirits. Between the youngest daughter and Apple .Jack there was developed a feeling which bid fair to merge at some future time into the tender passion; Ben, it is to be feared, permitted jjangs of regret to fill his bosom tiiat he was not in position to cherish a closer acquaintance with the elder daughter; while Yellow- stone and the mother got on famously. There was much in accord in their inspirations and cultured sympathies. The lady was not only an excellent talker but a capital listener. Yellow- stone combined these two high qualities to perfection, and the twain became so much occupied with each other that the Fairy was rather left out in the cold. At Harrisonburg the liulics were regretfully bid adieu and the special took up its way south- ward. Every foot of the line to Staunton was rendered historic during the war, the pike run- ning near by having been fiercely contested time and time again by the opposing forces. Between Harrisonburg and Staunton, twelve miles from the former place, the station for Weyer's Cave was reached. The cave was fourteen miles distant by stage, and the new hotel completed last season affords every facility for the entertainment of visitors. The cavern is one of striking extent, and its different chambers present startling fantasies of forma- tion. Staunton, from its commercial importance, is the leading city of the Valley. It is a favorite with tourists, situated as it is on an elevated position al the head of the Shenandoah Valley, with the Blue Ridge on the east and extending around to the west to a range of the Alleghaiiies. Several noted educational institutions are located at Staunton, and it is a center of unusual interest. The B. and O. Railroad Company, in ex- tending its line from Staunton to Lexington, will offer the shortest and by all means the most advantageous line to the famous Natural Bridge of 90 7'Ac Sextet. Virginia. Running in ilosc vicinity to this remarkable freak of nature, and bringinji; it within nuu-h easier access than ever before enjoved, it will no doubt induce largely increased travel. At Lexington is the Virginia Military Institute and tiie NVashington Lee University, of which General Robert E. Lee was j)resi(lont, and in the chapel basciiiciit uf whiih tlic great military chieftain, his wife and his daughter arc Inn iid. TIk- icmains of General Jackson are also entombed at Lexington. This extension of the Baltimore and Ohio now under rapid construction will doubtless be pushed on to direct connection with the epctensive railway systems further south. Meantime it will enable visitors tb Valley resorts to reach them more directly. Of these, Rockbridge Baths, Rockbridge Alum Springs and Jordan Alum Springs are the largest and best known,— the two last named distant from Lexington but eight miles. The Stribling Springs are thirteen miles fniui .Staunton, rearhed hy stage over an excellent road and through a country re])lctc witli attractive features. The waters of the different springs are ;ilum, suljihur und chalybeate. There was in the arrival of the quartet at Staunton a special pleasure not embraced within the city's varied offerings of scenery, business activity or educational interests. Two of the party blessed with partners of whom they had not yet tired, notwithstanding many years of conjugal relation- shiji, expected there such wifely welcome as might for the moment render miserable and forlorn the two luckless members for wlioni no sucli happi- ness was in store. The letters descriptive of the trij), whicii had from time to time reached the. feminine treasures, had by degrees aroused their curiosity, — which attribute has in all ages been generously vouch- .safed to womankind; and the conferences of the two, held for the purpose of taking action thereon, quickly resulted as was to be expected. To indulge in an entirely original e.vpression, they came, they saw, they con- quered — not only their worse halves, but Ben and Apple Jack, and, let it not fail to \n- iicordiMl, Tom as well. The whites of the happy servitor's eyes sparkled in strDiiger contrast than ever with their ebony pupils, and were matched only by glistening rows of teeth exhibited so far back as to make one wonder if the process of closing them was not necessarily by sections. A Chesterfield in black, Tom's attentions were so well timed and so complete that the ladies were at home at once, and the car took on a new beauty and brightness. The feminine Yellowstone, trim pf figure, graceful in action and in repose; apt, clear-headed, and quick as a flash in repartee, her voice was a charm none could withstand: used so deftlj' in conversation and .so nuisically in song, there was no end to the demands upon it. n.-rsclf an aillst'of rare rxc^lUiU'.-. Iut pirturrs ha.l been 9a Utterly Utter. only talent can enter. Sensible and practical as was Mrs. Y., she had been touched to a considerable extent by the .esthetic craze, and her " too toos," " too transcendently all but.s," and similar nonson.sc, added piquancy to her talk and manner. To her Aesthetic eye everything- had something lily-like about it, and the more difficult this iiappened to be for others to perceive or imagine, the more extravagant her expres- .sions. The Fairy's helpmeet was an interesting little body, girlish in form, with a merry eye, and face lit up by an animation that betokened at once beauty, intelligence and refinement. Powers of speech never failing upon any subject, she was indeed a fairy with magic wand most potent. Con- trasted with her big, unwieldy lord, the paradoxical appellative by which he was distinguished among men became a more apparent absurdity than ever. The fairy in truth was one of the best-natured and jolliest of women, and as Yellowstone's wife was not a whit behind her in this re- spect, it may ijo imagined what buoyancy and increased opportunities for enjoyment were imparted bj' the presence of these two hearts' idols. i'>y tiie further courtesy of railroad officials the special train was taken on beyond Staunton, and the first stop was made at Millboro Station. On the way a short time was spent at Goshen, thirty-two miles from Staun- ton, where is erected an in\ iting hotel named after the town, and where not a few people annually spend the summer. The Cold Sulphur Springs are two miles from Goshen, the close proximity of the railroad leading many business men to prefer it, owing to the little time consumed in run- ning over from the train. It is a cheerful place with accommodations for a hundred or more. The waters are a light tonic adapted to delicate constitutions, and are especially applicable for dyspeptic, liver and kidney complaints. The majority of visitors to the Rockbridge Baths, Rock- bridge Alum and Jordan Alum Springs leave the train at Goshen, and to the first-named resort drive eleven miles over one of the prettiest routes imaginable. It is mainly a valley road, one of the most impressive features of which is the passage through Goshen Pass and along the river bank, both famous for their scenery. But the quartet had planned a tour to several resorts by wagon, making the start from the next station, Millboro, and the visit to Rock- bridge Baths was included. For the same reason Rockbridge Alum and Jordan Alum Springs were not visited from Goshen; from which point, however, the regular stage line runs to these places, eight miles from the railroad depot. The party had heard so much of the wild and rough ride over the mountains from Millboro to Rockbridge Alum that it was deter- mined to go that way, spending the night at the s])rings and returning to the car the next day in time to sot out on the tour already referred to. At Millboro the special was sid(>-traeked and ])re])arations s]K'edily made for the jaunt ov(;r the Blue Ridge, '{'he ladies, who had had no Pictnrexij'iie li. and O. experience as yet in following a tortuous road up rocky inclines and around dizzy precipices, were so eager to get started as to render Ben quite uneasy for fear things would be forgotten, to the discomfort of the feminine portion of the party. The strapping fellow had taken a violent fancy to the a?sthetically inclined Mrs. Y. ; and while he never before could see any very ravishing beauty in a sunflower, and had been decidedly disinclined to stand more than four hours at a stretch gazing at the petals of a lily, he assumed a fondness for such sort of things which made the practical members of the quartet smile visibly. Yellow- stone, not to be outdone in srallantrv, demonstrated a warm side for the Fairy's agile con- were light of foot, with no more con- danger than if they about in a manner to each one's lawful ing members of the now constituted, — find solace in uni- prised to find how could be obtained was so unmistaka- ing genius. For the fortuitous compan- bust and dauntless very advantageous, leading to the ful- the part of the fat of a helping hand cles where big feet sort, and as the two quick of action, and ception of p<.ssible had wings, skipped that was harassing mate. The remain- sextet, — as it was were compelled to son, and were sur- much of enjoyment where congeniality bly the all-govern- Fairy, at least, this ionship with the ro- youth proved to be subsequent events lest appreciation on man of the services A VIUIilMA l!l-,l,l,l. to surmount obsta- d bigger stomach were of not the slightest avail. There is a cozy hotel at Millboro. Its shady porches, luxuriant garden and pure atmosphere render it an attractive place almost all the year round. It is not without its springs, as there are several near by, and quite diflerent in chemical constituents. One is chalybeate, another is alkaline, and others are sulphur, and according to medical authority are of a pronounced curative order. While the party was inspecting Millboro House a comfortable, well-built mountain wagon had driven up, and within its interior was found an abundance of space for all. The team attached was a powerful one, and the driver a master of his profession. The strength of the horses and the dexterity of the reinsman were des- tined to be called into active play before Rockbridge Alum was reached. Almost from the start it was a climb, and as the way pressed onward the surroundings became wilder and wilder, and soon the actual ascent of a 94 WhistliN,/ Mad.- J'Jxs;/. \ very narrow road over a formidable ridge was begun. Tills caused the ladies to grow less talkative, for besides the extent of country to be seen from the vehicle it was now on the verge of a sheer precipice, and along this the path led. The situation was one calculated to shake stronger nerves. Ben sat on the front seat with the driver, and as he had once in his life gone over a bank in a carriage, to the serious detriment of the bones in one of his legs, he did not fancy a repetition of the experi- ence. But there was in reality little or no danger, as the road, though rough, and not much used, was nevertheless .safe enough for a careful driver to make his way over it without trouble. The pace was necessarily slow, and as night came dn rapidly the ladies did not appear to take things in with the same gusto as when the start was made. It was plump dark when the top of the mountain was attained, and the drive down the other side was considerably faster, and what with the elevation above the valley, the sharp turns in the road, and tin- succession of rather frightful glimpses down abrupt declines, was not particularly assuring. Still, as all things come to an end, so did tire trip to Rockbridge Alum, and the reception whicli was accorded on arrival was hearty and genial, and effectually drove away all remembrance of terror. Rockbridge Alum is spacious in its lay-out, nearly the wliole of the valley in which it is situated being occupied by the principal buildings, cottages, bath-houses, and th$. like. The view- from the portico of the hotel is one which makes the guest content to remain. An almost un- limited number of spots may readily be found where the sun upon the hottest days of the year cannot penetrate, and where it is always cool and invigorating. Little suffering is ever experienced from the heat at Rockbridge Alum; the nights are invariably cool enough to require blan- kets, and except in actual midsummer fires are in frequent demand both .•v.-ninn' and nmniing. lniiih',|i,-,lrl\ adjoining Rockbridge .Mum Is .b.rdan .Vluiii. Hotii of these will-kniiwu resorts were a year nrtud since ednsolidiited into one. The location of the hotel at .lonhin .\luiii is (.11 the brow dl' a syiii- nifitrical hill, with a iiigii mountain beliind, and fidin this eminence a panorama many miles in extent may be brought within the range of vision. The water from the springs at Rockbridge as well as Jordan has long been popidar in the markets of the countiy, as it is shipped in large quantities to the leading cities. Tli<>re can be no question about its being largely impregnated with alum, lor after drinking a quantity of it one finds no difficulty in whistling. It draws up the mouth and lips after a fashion that should render happy those poor unfortunate creatures who are blessed with countenances sufl^ciently open to tickle the risibles of their humorous friends. Tlii. medicinal value of the springs is beyond I'stimale ; they aie siMi))ly unrivaled in the cure of I'ivtnresque B. and O. 95 scrofulous complaints, dj'spepsia, and disordered secretions in gen eral. The accommodations at these combined resorts are on a liberal scale, and as many as a thousand people can be enter tained at one time. The host very kindly gave the party rooms opening off the parlor, in which were a grand piano, a guitar and a violin. These additional facil- ities for enjoyment were seized without ceremony, and with Mrs. Yellowstone at the piano, the Fairy's wife at the guitar, and Apple Jack at the fiddle, with Ben, Yellowstone and the Fairy to join in the chorus, there was music in the air at Rockbridge that night, and no mistake. The team was brought around bright and early next morning for the return trip over the same road that the sextet had traveled the evening before with such mingled emotions. Having become somewhat acquainted with it, and discounting in advance the rough places, the ladies particularly were in better shape to enjoy the ride, and all were united in declaring that its wildness much more than recompensed for the discomforts which had been endured in mind and body. In the matter of distance this is the shorter line to Rockbridge as compared with that from Goshen, as the former is five miles, and the latter eight. But the trip from Goshen can be made in quicker time than can that by the shorter road, and those who are at all timid or who are disposed to be luxurious in bodily comforts would fare better by going that way. On the other hand, those who have a fondness for something out of the usual run, have a taste for adventure, and a keen enjoyment of the picturesque, .should go to Millboro and make the mountain trip from there. Tom, pursuant to instructions, had an early dinner prepared upon the arrival of the party at Millboro. Fresh steeds had been ordered, and just about noon on as glorious a day as ever was vouchsafed to man- kind the departure was made for a tour of the five resorts embraced witliin a circuit of the drive from Millboro to Covington on the railroad, direc- tions having been given Tom to have the car taken to that point. The IHE iOLD CIIMHKR 96 The, River and Beyond. route lay in an almost opposite direction from that taken to Rockbridge. Two miles from the station a brief visit was made at Millboro Springs, which is pleasantly located upon a high plateau not far distant from a swiftly flowing river. The usual variety of springs was found there, — sulphur, alum and chalybeate. These, being of different strength and properties, are declared to be of pronounced benefit for the pains and impediments they are intended to alleviate or to remove. The hotel building fronts upon the stage road, and is sheltered by rows of trees of sturdy growth. It is an airy spot, and is in close proximity to the railroad, which to a number of persons is a desirable feature. Pushing on from Millboro Springs the road soon took a decided curve and there was disclosed a lengthy expanse of valley rising by gentle slopes from the banks of a little river of clear and scintillating waters. The drive thence for a mile or more was very enjoyable, and was a fit prepara- tion for the initial glimpse of Wallawhatoola Springs, three miles from Millboro Station. As the road draws near, the stream gains in width and assumes, directly in front of Wallawhatoola, such proportions and beauty that it rivals many of the lakes made famous by the descrip- tive powers of noted writers. The face of the river is as smooth as burnished silver, and its depths are so pure that they show to the mi- nutest details the exquisite incrustations of moss at the bottom. A sus- pension-bridge spans this body of water. It is both light and grace- ful, and of a width to accommodate only pedestrians. As the road leads directly to the bank on the opposite side from the hotel all visitors are introduced to the picture before actually reaching the house. Walla- whatoola is not an extensive resort, having accommodations perhaps for not more than one hundred; but for a summer home with immediate surroundings that are so many sources of perfect rest and recuperation, with opportunities for mountain climbing, for boating and for pleasure of almost every description, it has indeed few equals. The springs gush forth from rocky caverns on the same side of the river that the road runs, and this accounts for the building of the bridge for the use of those who visit them from the hotel. Vehicles of every description ford the river, as the bed is of gravel and quite solid. The stay here was out somewhat short owing to the programme of the day calling for an hour or so at Bath Alum Springs, two miles distant, and spending the night at Warm Springs, fifteen miles in all from Millboro Station. The drive from Wallawhatoola to Bath Alum was of short duration, the road smooth and mostly level, and affording a capital opportunity to demonstrate the trotting qualities of the horses. Bath Alum is directly upon the stage road, and has a number of spa- (uous buildings on tin- right hand side and a i)ark on the left. It is an old and popular retreat. The hotel and cottages are of brick, and are 98 Dame Nature's Provocations. built in a substantial manner. The mountains in which the springs are located are some distance back from the buildings, but the walk is a pleasing one, and the mineral qualities of the water are so pronounced that one is well repaid the little exertion of reaching them. The alum waters are the chief feature here, but there are in addition chalybeate springs of different strength and an iron spring of some celebrity. During the season it is quite gay at Bath Alum, for besides the equipages of guests all the travel to M^'ann Springs and beyond is by the road which passes, as before remarked, in front of the hotel and cottages. Leaving Bath Alum, for a short distance the line retains its level character and then commences the ascent of Warm Spring Mountain. Those who have become familiar with the roadways diverging from the Virginia Val- ley are ever enthusiastic regarding the drive from Bath Alum to Warm Springs, many of whom declare that it has no equal in the country, while others acknowledge that it has no superior. Among the latter may truly be included the sextet, the male as well as the female portion. Tlie incline, from the very moment the road leaves the valley, is sharp and decisive, but the nearer the summit is approached, the more remarka- ble the view becomes. Half way up, the observer, thrilling with the emotions which the rich and varied landscape produces, breaks out exultingly with the declaration that nothing can equal it. On, and slowly on, the horses go, the traces stretched to their utmost tension and the animals puffing from continuous effort. The strong and symmetrical pines whicli tower up from the edge of the road are aggravating in their density, interee])ting as tliey do the range of vision to such an extent tliat one instinctively lonus for aw ax that he might set to work and fell them to mother earth. Xi \ iithiless they serve a useful purpose, for so majestic and vast is the scciu' over which the eye roams at will, that the mind would be subjected to too great a strain if the view were altogether without a break. At the top a halt was made, and the party sprang to the ground in order to seek, if possible some greater elevation that would enable them to satiate themselves with the landscape. Yellowstone, turning away as if by accident from the retrospect that he was enjoying of the country which they had just traversed, excitedly demanded that the others should about-face in order to realize that which was yet before tliom. Sucli a spot on tlie summit of Warm Spring Mountain is, to mortals, a provocation on tlic part of Dame Nature amounting almost to irrita- tion. The ever-clianging panorama witnessed during the entire trip up tlie mountain and culminating in sucii magnificence is of itself suffi- ciently inspiring, but when, in addition to this, one is treated to such a sight as that of Warm Spring Valley the miiiil of man is too small to fully appreciate it. Tiie sun was just setting at thi> moment when the Picturesque Ji. and 0. party stood looking up the valley. The river, a thousand feet or more below, appeared like a thread of crystal, and the white cluster of buildings at Warm Springs in the distance was toned by the mel- low rays of the sunset to a most delicate pink. Back of these arose high up a forest-covered ridge of mountains, others again extending line upon line as far as the eye could reach. Directly up the valley the vision, falling upon the crimson disk of the sinking sphere, was startled by the distinctness and boldness with which the peaks, behind which Old Sol seeks his rest, stand out from the surroundings, their forms by comparison becoming simply gigantic in proportions. Darkness came on so suddenly that the drive down to the hotel was made in quick time, and the reception by the landlord there was one which might well be remem- bered as that of a typical Virginia host. Tall, with hair of snowy whiteness, a well-trimmed beard, a frank and generous face, and a bearing courtly as that of any lord, with the grasp of his hand and the genial smile, no one could doubt the hearty character of the welcome. Warm Springs Hotel is famed for the excellence of its cooking, its choice service, and the efficiency and politeness of its attendants. It is a large, roomy house, with lengthy verandahs fronted by graceful columns and overshadowed by noble trees, the time when they were saplings not being known to memory. The warm springs from which the resort takes its name are numerous, and the flow is copious and inexhaustible. There are swimming-pools for gentlemen, for ladies, and for children, and a large number of private bath-houses. The temperature of the water as it flows from earth's own basins is 98° Fahrenheit, and is so vast in supply that the two main swimming-pools are estimated to receive six thousand gallons of fresh water per minute. The mineral con- stituents are of such strength as to cause it to be highly beneficial, but a due appreci- ation of its grate- ful effects upon wuATb Tilt laacL ui ia.n iJAUKV the system can be realized only by experience. The water is used internally as well as exter- nally, and is beyond question of the most favorable avail as a remedial agent in rheumatism, gout and torpidity of the liver, with their attendant evils in the way of indigestion, constipation, paralysis, and other maladies. The sight from Warm Spring Mountain is alone a sufficient attraction for a month's visit, but the scenes as witnessed from adjacent ridges 100 Nature's Own Boiliruj. and from the high points on everj^ side leave nothing that the most exacting could demand. The accommodations at the hotel and surround- ing cottages are ample for full}- three hundred people, and during the sununer there is not often much space unoccupied. The hunting is par- ticularly fine, as also is the fishing, and arrangements are readily made by visitors to carry out their fondness for sport to almost any extent. The sextet had capital opportunities for testing the claims of this resort in the culinary line, and freely acknowledged the fact that they are based upon truth. The departure was made in good season the following morning, and the drive to Hot Springs proved another constant succession of surprises. Ill the midst of so many scenes that are always found difficult to transfer to paper, and in such a climate with a party so congenial, it was by no means the easiest thing in the world to restrain one's feelings and be chary of the use of adjectives. The embarrassment of confining language to every-day usage can be understood only by those who have been simi- larly circumstanced. The .-Esthetic Mrs. Yellowstone had to give up after the second day and frankly confess that the apostle of sestheticism him- self would in the mountains of Virginia be put to it to coin new phrases. Two hours' ride brought the party to Hot Springs, twenty miles from Millboro Station, or nineteen miles from Covington. Here again Fairy found a resort so different in its general location and its attractions as to puzzle him to find new words to tell of them. The ladies, upon finding that the natural temperature of the water was higher than that at the springs which they had just left, and which led to the one being called Warm Springs and the other Hot Springs, became desirous of testing the comparative heat. Under the care of an old darky servant, ■who looked as if she might have served Washington, they crossed the lawn to the ladies' plunge. The gentlemen, who had made it a rule to indulge in a swim at each of the resorts where there was a pool, were nothing loth to accept the kind invitation of the proprietor and go with him to the gentlemen's bath. It was a hot one sure enough, and Apple Jack, who was the first to divest himself of his clothing and take a header, came scrambling out of the water about as lively as his nimble legs and supple arms would permit. The natural tempera- ture is 110° Fahrenheit, but as there are numerous cold springs it can be graduated as desired. Say what scientists will upon the question of artificially-heated mineral waters being as efficacious as those that are tempered by N.ature herself, the fact will still remain that aside from medicinal considerations no heat that can be acquired by man's ingenuity will approach the naturally-heated water for a pleasure-bath; and all the cosmetics ever compounded by cunning hand cannot compare, for the skin, with mineral water of a temperature from 90° to 100°. There BBRKFIFY --l 102 .1 Butli for « Kill,/. is a probability that the bather will be inclined to remain in too long unless cautioned. The buildings at Hot Springs are of modern erection, owing to an extensive fire which occurred six or seven years ago, neces- sitating a heavy expense in the work of restoration. The liberality and the enterprise of the men who invested their money here are everywhere apparent. The location is a charming one, in a little pocket in the mountains; the gorges separating these acting as chan- nels for the constant play of cool, fresh air. The aspect from either hotel or cottage is so varied and so animated that the opportunities for special studies are almost endless. From three hundred and fifty to four hundred guests can be quite comfortably provided for. Visitors to this place who might fancy a change of scene en route should take the stage from Millboro on the outward journey, and on the return trip go to the railroad by stage to Covington. This will enable them to make exactly the circuit gone over by the sextet. Four miles from Hot Springs is Healing Springs, and thence to Covington is sixteen miles. Between Hot Springs and Healing Springs the stranger is more or less likely to become confused; the fact, however, is that the difference in the waters of these three resorts consists mainly in the temperature. As has already been stated, that at Warm Springs is 98°; at Hot Springs it runs as high as 110°, and at Healing Springs it ranges from 85° to 88°, and the supply here also is practically inexhaustible. Bright and crys- talline the ever-bursting bubbles of gas escape and float in sparkling myriads upon its surface. Ben declared that a bath in champagne could not be more exhilarating, but as none of the party had ever run the slightest risk of immersion in that product of choice vintage there was no contradicting the proposition. The proprietor at Healing Springs, a son of the noble old gentleman at Warm Springs, showed his lineage in his face, and his training was gracefully exemplified in his deportment. His invitation to dinner was promptly accepted in the same spirit in which it was tendered, but more than one half of the« sextet decreed that a plunge should be taken before the meal, which was the order of things forthwith, as the rule rigidly enforced was that the majority should govern the minority throughout the trip. After the experience in the warm and hot baths just visited the cooler temperature of the jiool at Healing Springs was decidedly refreshing, and it WMs n.,t until alt.T n|,cutrd kncrki.ig .at tlic laili.'s' jin.il that the IViiiiiiinc ]i(.ili(iii (if tlic |..-iily r.mlil b<' induced U> l(>a\-r it and proceed o dine. The springs arc located on the two gently undulating banks of a romantic streamlet which pursues its babbling course through the entire grounds. For weakly persons, or those who do not care to tire themselves in running r'^ ^( ii(rdll\ put mosque effect of VIC nut \ The cottages are for the most part more preten- tious in appearance than tliose onliridnlj found at the averafft resort, tlie laig;er number of thorn having roomj galleries from which may be obtained views of the tastefully laid out lawns and of the mountains which encircle them. There is here almost every conceivable form of baths, — hot, cold, plunge, and so on to the end of a variety which is limited only by the genius of man to devise them. The water is largely impregnated with lime, magnesia and iron, with strong traces of several other minerals. It is good for almost all the ailments to nun IS '.ubioct Ladic s, iiartic ul iih , pationi/e it, ^:.::^^ 'm^'^^^^:^- 1U4 Gobhlv, Gobble. owing to its direct influence in clearing and beautifying the complexion. Chemical analyses have demonstrated these waters to be almost iden- tical with the Schlagenbad and Ems in Germany. Following the ravine from the springs it leads to many wild sections, and bold climbers who have the nerve to surmount the difficulties attendant upon reaching the topmost points of mountain-gorges grow fervid beyond expression over the grandeur of the scene on all sides. The hunting is particularly good. Apple Jack, in tramping about, scared up three or four flocks of quail almost within the grounds, and early that same morning there had been a series of exciting tussles between wild and tame turkey gobblers car- ried on in full view of those sitting upon the piazza of the hotel. The game is but rarely disturbed, and among all the possessions at the springs there could not be found shot-gun or rifle. Up in the mountains where but few ever penetrate there are bear and deer, and the hunting par- ties who occasionally visit there for sport have invariably returned with an excellent showing. The pleasantest mode of hunting is on horseback, and as there are plenty of animals trained to mountain climbing, those who find enjoyment in such. pastimes will discover that opportunities are not lacking to indulge in them. There is also excellent fishing in the many brooks near by, and the trout, almost strangers to the form of man, fall ready victims to his prowess. Diverging from Healing Springs the road lay tlirough a fine tract of country, now stretching for a mile or two through a valley and now wending its way up a sharp acclivity and presenting vistas to the beholder that were apparently without limit. The last five miles of the drive was the ascent of Mount Jackson and the descent upon the opposite side to Covington Station. Just before commencing the upward journey there was u curve, and around it the carriage rattled merrily, then a longer one, and at a point about midway was observed a picture the equal of which can scarcely he found anywhere upon the continent, — the Falling Springs. Its name, however, conveys but an inadequate conception of its true character. From the turn referred to the land runs to the right a short distance and then stops abruptly at a sheer precipice. The road leaving the curve strikes another which borders upon a dark ravine until the mountain in- cline is commenced at the far end. Where the view is grandest there is another decisive and almost perpendicular descent to the bottom of the iiiiglitv gorge filled with enormous masses of rock, and upon which falls the spring-water from its height more than two hundred feet above. The line marking the length of the falls was a thousand to fifteen hundred feet; and while at some points the water plunged over in huge torrents, in other places it foil in thin sheets, and just before reaching the bottom broke into an iridescent curtain of spray, producing- extiuisite effects. Picturesque B. and 0. 105 To contemplate the falls from the road is a princely privilege, but the sextet remained only a few moments to enjoy it, and then one and all went scram- bling down the side of the gorge and over the rocks below. So indiscrimi- nately and thickly had the bowlders fallen and the water for many years washed over them, and so long had the moss carpeted almost every spot where it could find root, that to obtain good vantage-ground was not an easy matter; but at the same time the thrilling excitement of the sit- uation made one inconsiderate of wet feet, soiled clothes, or a gen- erally saturated condition. Look- ing upward, the enchantment was transporting in its inten- sity. Yellowstone, well- nigh beside himself with -i artistic emotions, unhesi- *^ tatingly pronounced the falls infinitely more beautiful than any he had ever looked upon. The sight, though less majestic, was in- comparably more fascinating to the senses than the mighty Ni- agara; and while he could think of no locality that j could do it justice by com- parison, it yet reminded him of some one of the celebrated falls which he remembered having seen while in Europe. Nothing could be more lovely than the sight of that serrated, moss-covered wall where the water fell in gossamer-like vails before it. Everything was clothed with the same exuberant raiment of radiant, changeable green. It was a place where one could spend hours ■^^ QUEENS OF TUK FIELD. 100 A Rcniarkiihle Place. and realize in them only moments of time. The party viewed at one instant five distinct rainbows in different portions of these remarka- ble falls; and to tell of all the alluring forms taken by the water in its downward leap, or of the cascades and pools it subsequently formed, would require hours of writing and page after page of type. Even were this attempted, it is exceedingly doubtful if the most gifted of descriptive writers could do justice to the subject ; and this is not intended as an ordinary figuro of speech, but as an absolute conviction. The falls iin(|ui'sticinably received the name of Falling Springs from the fact that tli(- supiily uf water is not from any stream, neither is it visible to the naked eye in appreciable quantity from its source on the ledge above. This ledge for some distance is a marsh thickly covered with luxuriant undergrowth, and Apple Jack's investigation of it came near resulting disastrously. Two or three times he sank to his waist where the footing appeared to the eye to be reasonably sure, and once his temerity was so great that he actually ventured out upon an immense rock, the bed of which was so undermined by the water as to tremble with his weight. The explorations of the entire party were attended by more or less of discomfort and danger, as the time to take in the situation was compara- tively brief, and the determination was to do it all if possible before dark. Perhaps no spot in thp mountains of Virginia offers greater interest to the scientist and the artist, and to the lover of nature generally, than Falling Springs; and it is strange that so wonderful a place has thus far been comparatively unknown. It is not difficult of access. Leaving New York by the midnight train on the Baltimore and Ohio road, one reaches Baltimore the next morning and Falling Springs the same night. The best plan tiiat ran be adopted is to go through from Covington by stage to Healinn- Sjnin^^s, remain there over night, take carriage next morning, and with a good lunch set out to spend the day at Falling Springs, returning, should the time be limited, to Covington the same evening in time to catch the east-bound train. The twilight had so far merged into moonlight that the way back up the gorge to the carriage whicli was waiting on the road was rendered quite exciting, and was accomplished with no other annoj'ance than damp clothes and wet feet. But these inconsiderate things went for naught in the summing up of what had been witnessed. The journey to the top of the mountain and down the other side was such as to keep to the highest tension the spirits of the party. The singing was broken only by .sudden bursts of delight at some view disclosed by a turn in the road, the moon- light upon the nioiinlain ami upon the liroad, placid surface of Jackson River below alTonlin^- siieh tastes of the pieturesque as to most effectually do away with all tli.aiglils of the lateness of the hour and the absence of supper, 'i'his little disereparu;y was speedily adjusted upon reaching the Picturesque B. and O. car Tom, having had a choice meal for some time prepared, had grown uneasy over the failure of the sextet to arrive in season to do it that justice vehich its merits demanded. The ladies had stood the extended wagon trip without fatigue ; in fact it had done them a world of good, and it was amazing how rapidly their plates were cleared of the solids heaped so lavishly upon them. The whole party had been much benefited by the days spent in the open air, and it would have required no great amount of coaxing to obtain a general consent to make the trip right over again. 108 The Telegraph and the Mails. The car was taken that night to Alleghany Station, thirty-six miles from Covington, and early the next morning the start was made for Old Sweet Springs, — one of the best-known resorts in the country, and which for years has been the summer home of many of the distinguished men of the South. The ride was one of only ten miles' duration, and as the grades were light there was no trouble in making the distance in little over an hour. Just before reaching Old Sweet, Red Sweet or, as it is now called, Sweet Chalybeate Springs was passed, it being the intention to tarry there on the return. The location of Old Sweet is in a more open country than is generally the rule in mountainous districts, the springs themselves flowing from a fertile valley not far from the foot of the range. The buildings are of brick and of the most substantial character, and one is impressed at the very first sight with the amount of capital which must have been invested to secure such results. Some idea of the extent of Sweet Springs may be gleaned from the fact that one thousand or more guests are readily entertained at a time, and at the height of the season it resembles a city in miniature. The lavish expenditure of solid wealth is also manifest in the modern improvements that have been made here, and it is safe to affirm that in all its appointments nothing is lacking that could be desired by the most fashionable seekers for pleasure and health. The larger of the buildings extend up to the line of the stage- road, and the others are constructed so as to form three sides of a square, leaving the thoroughfare open to view from all directions. The bath- houses in which are located the gentlemen's and the ladies' swimming- pools are of brick, and every facility is afforded for the complete enjoy- ment of the water. There are four or five large springs, the temperature of which averages 79°. The water is of a tonic character, mildly cathar- tic and alterative, and is applicable to cases of debility, to many forms of dyspepsia, and functional diseases of the stomach and bowels. There is no good reason why any one should suffer from loneliness at Sweet Springs. Hops are given every night, and for day amusement there are billiards, tenpins, croquet, and possibly at times poker. In common with all of the resorts which had been visited, the pres- ence of long lines of telegraph poles and wires indicated the facility with which guests communicate witli friends in any part of the country. The mails arrive at least as often as daily, ami at most of the resorts twice a day, morning and afternoon. Returning to Sweet Chalybeate Springs, which are a mile nearer Alleghany than Old Sweet, the same charming characteristics were obser- vable as at other resorts of a similar nature. Though less a.ssuming, perhaps, tliau Old Sweet, as the buililings are prineipally - \\u\i\. The falls, as the name ini- ])lies, wore ]iriniarily |iri1 follows along the line of the mountain to - -'j^Sl this abrupt break, which in the distance --^^"J' appears to be only of such width that a boy might " '• easily cast a stone from one side to the other. To the left the crests are as vividly portrayed, the clear air adding distinctness to the outline, and anew the sharp declivity is repeated, the rift in the towering range looking as if some superhuman hand had wielded the instrument which rent in twain the sister masses of granite. At North Branch, six miles from Cumberland, the railroad once more spans the river, and the train bowls merrily along over the soil of " Maryland, my Maryland ! " to Cumberland. The B. and O. has demonstrated what liberality and good judgment will accomplish in making travel by rail pleasant to the eye and grateful to the senses. Here is the grand hotel, the " Queen City," built by the Company, and many a city whose population is quadruple can boast of no such hostelry. The architecture is an ornate mingling of stone and 124 27«' Inner M,in. brick, and in front as well as at the ends the verandah overlooks a notice- ably artistic display of landscape gardening. Broad stone walks are laid from the tracks to the hotel, curbed by foliage-plants, and in every way made pleasing to the eye and the senses alike. The spacious dining-room within the building and the private apartments upstairs are fitted up with every modern convenience and furnished after a manner that would not reflect discredit on a metropolitan house. The elevation of Cumberland is a thousand feet or more above the level of the sea, and the air is therefore necessarily pure and sweet. This, in connection with the scenery in the vicinity, whicii is exceedingly fine, renders this resort of considerable importance in the summer season. From a commercial standpoint the city ranges second in the State of Maryland, its coal interests being of great magnitude. Railway tracks are laid throughout the coal district, and mining is carried on very exten- sively, the supply showing no signs of exhaustion. The coal is shipped in large quantities to New York and the New England cities, and to all the Atlantic States; in fact it is largely exported to the West Indies and the eastern and western coasts of South America. It is also sent in almost, if noi i|iiii. , 1 .|ual quantities to Ohio, Indiana, Illinois and other Western Stales, 1. u manufacturing purposes. The Cumberland coal-field is fifty miles in length and four to six miles in width. On the other side of the mountains are the Clarksburg, Fairmont, Grafton and Newburg coal- basins, of unlimited extent, furnishing employment to thousands of miners and millions of dollars' worth of business animally for the railroad com- pany. Owing to the B. and O. penetrating this vast section of coal de- posits its fuel is obtained at figures far below those secured by other trunk lines, and as a consequence the road is operated at a correspondinglv If.ss expense. Cumberland is one of the most important points on the road, and the company has large interests here, it being the center of several impor- tant departments of its management. The dining-halls along the route, as previously stated, are owned and operated by the Company ; and at the Queen City hotel are the headquarters of the superintendent, who by the way is an old New York hotel man of large experience and well-earned popularity. Possibly no accommodations afforded by railway lines require more careful and close attention than the dining-halls, and to manage them so that all classes of passengers are gratified is something to be ])roud of. The sagacious course of the company in placing their dining-halls under the superintendency of a man who has learned from experience how to keep a hotel is demonstrated in the high reputation they have earned. The object is not .so much to make a profit on tlie meals that are served as to insure the comfort and the pleasure of the patrons of the road. Were the eating-houses under the control of outside 1;>6 l>ln-i,i,i-ll,tlh II nd Dinbuj-Vars. parties they would, as a matter of course, be compelled to manage them so that they would yield an income which should be a suitable reimburse- ment for the time and labor expended in their maintenance. But in the case of the Company this is not an absolute requirement, as the revenue derived from the increased business on the road where passengers are fully satisfied with the attention which they receive in the matter of accommo- dations more than compensates for any lack of actual profit in the hotels themselves. The dining-cars, also owned and managed by the Company, may be classed in the same category, the determination being to insure perfect contentment even at the expense of the entire amount received for the food served. The quartet tested the table at Queen City at supper- time, and the result was that Tom was notified that he need not prepare breakfast in the car. THE YOUGHIOGHENY. Early the following morning the car was shifted over to the tracks of the Pittsburgh Division of the B. and O. preparatory to the run through the Youghiogheny and Monongahela valleys to the " Smoky City." Hardly had the corporate limits been passed before the train was within the walls of Will's Mountain Gap, which was first seen in the distance when crossing Patterson's Creek. The Gap, which seven miles away had capti- vated the attention of every beholder, appeared to magnificent advantage as the threshold was ^ipproached. Here the creek contributes its quota to the general view, rushing- through the mountain as it does in ungovernable haste to empty itself into the Potomac. On either hand the cliffs tower as it were into the clouds, their liiirs broken by ponderous ledges of rock over which hang trailing vines, nml from whicli jut lean, lank and almost leafless pines, some bent over ap])arently from age and others, as it would seem, from lightning-stroke, which in its furious career down tlie rocky walls had blasted granite, tree and shrub, leaving naught but wreck and scarred remnants in its track. On the very edge of one of the highest of these projections some courageous hand has planted an observa- tory, the framework of wliich from below seemed too frail to sup]iort the weight of a chilil. l'"roin this elevation the outlook must lie intensely interesting, as it couimarids a \ iew eastward of twenty miles oi- luoi'e, and westward, possibly, lo even a ar-eatei- distance. Leaving the (ia]) the road li'ads out into a i -e open country, crossing Picturesque B. and O. 127 at frequent intervals little streams, each of them a study, and passing a peculiar formation of rock, the strata of which fully demonstrati; the vio- lence of the volcanic action that threvF it into its present position upon end. The jaggedness of its edge led to its name, "The Devil's Backbone." Dashing through Sand Patch tunnel, which is at an elevation of twenty-three hundred feet, sunlight at the other end discloses the first view of Casselman's River, with banks at times pastoral and then grow- ing more wild as the Youghiogheny is approached. For mile upon mile the road follows a ledge cut into the mountain side, and from here the passenger looks away down upon the whirling rapids; and the thought was painful of what might have been the consequences had some of the great bowlders, — and there are many of them in the waters, — become dislodged and, rolling down, obstructed the train in its swift career. The way through the valley is one of curves and long, sweeping turns; but so firm is the rock ballast of the track, and so smooth is the sev- enty-pound steel rail with which it is laid, that one notices the angles only as they open up new and wilder views of all that is fascinating in Nature in the way of mountain, and valley, and forest, and river. As one turns from the vista that lies before him and permits his gaze to alight upon the monstrous rocks clogging up the stream the eye in- voluntarily roams back over the country just traversed, and he must needs be a writer of niarkod ikiwit who could britiir the sia-lit (" tlip Ittll AT UKEK I;i8 Tumbled to It. full realization of the reader. All along the valley the mountains which horn it in restrict the waters until they increase in fury sufficient to burst any ordinary barriers. In the centuries agone there evidently must have been such a rock-rolling in this vicinity as to shake the earth to its very axis. Many of these ponderous bowlders have tumbled thousands of feet to the bed of the stream, and are almo.st mountains in themselves; others have so long been subjected to the action of the water that their edges have been rounded to a symmetry of form closely assimilating the work of the artisan. Gradually the aspect of nature grows in a measure less wild, and valleys are introduced, giving the scene something of a pastoral appearance. At Meyersdale a branch diverges to the Salisbury coal-basin, which so far as developed gives not the slightest indication of lessening in supply. From Meyersdale on to Rockwood is a famous dairy region, butter being manufactured in large quantities and shipped not only to Washington and Baltimore but as far oast as New York, where in the market it ranks as "gilt-edged." Rockwood is the starting-point of the Somerset and Cam- bria Branch extending to Johnstown, the location of the noted Cambria Steel and Iron Works, the great bulk of the production of which is sent over this branch of the Pittsburgh Division. Speeding on to Ohio Pyle a stop is made for the night. The buildings at this resort, while in a measure commodious, are by no means as extensive as the location justi- fies, for there are but few places in the mountains combining so many attractions as this. The hotel grounds are only a few steps from the depot, and upon a gently rising elevation which forces the Youghiogheny to change its course abruptly to the south. The houses are erected upon the highest knoll, which had been cleared for them for some dis- tance around, and converted into a lawn flanked on two sides by a forest and on another by the river, while tiie remaining side is walled in by the mountain-ridge. One may imagine from this slight sketch what such a location must be, but when the falls, the steady roar of which is always distinct, is added to it, there could be no cause for surprise that the reader should wish himself there. Were the wish gratified he would have tlie pleasure of seeing the Youghiogheny rushing and tumbling tempestuously over the ledge of rocks to the granite masses below, a distance of nearly a hundred feet. It is no puny, trickling stream, but the tremendous cata- ract, five hundred feet across, that dashes against the projecting rocks in its descent and flies off in fantastic shapes of spray. The whole body of the Youghiogheny here pitches over the precipice, and to say that it seems to boil with rage, or that it writhes and fumes to a white heat, is to express but feebly the whirling cauldron below. On one side the mount- ains exhibit a slio(>r height of hundreds of feet, and on the other is a romantic olil mill, age-worn and iimss-covered, and of that fashion of eon- Picturesque B. and 0. struction which artist's ej^es love to behold. But a solitarj' vehicle and one horse could be found at Ohio Pyle, the bringing out of which so played upon the feelings of the quartet that it was decided to proceed at once on foot to Cucumber Falls, which was situated high up among ^^ the hills, so that no ' - GARUETT C0T1 U f DEtR PARK one horse could safely be relied up- on to convey the part\ thither In- structions \\ere, how- ever, lett lor the ariver to bring the quartet back, as it was down-grade the en- tire distance. Though something of a climb, and rather hard on the 130 The FalUng Cucumber. Fairy's corporosity, the physical exertion of the trip was more than com- pensated. On the road Yellowstone dallied to sketch a rustic structure bridging the rivulet that danced its way to the Youghiogheny, and just above this the old tannery long since passed into decay. The brido-e the dilapidated buildings, the narrow gorge, and the woods, made a sturdy for a sketch not to be passed over by the artistic eye. From this spot the hard, stony roadway led directly up the ascent to the summit, and from here the route down to the falls was such that persons of weak nerves would hardly dare attempt it. A well-beaten path denotes the point where the road is to be left for the descent. Hand in hand the quartet scram- bled over fallen trees and projecting crags to the bottom; and once there, the query was — at least the fat man of the coterie thought so — how in the world to get back again. But such trifling considerations soon faded out m the presence of the falling waters. The geological characteristics of Cucumber Falls are remarkable, the surface of the earth having apparently sunk abruptly two hundred feet or more and left the adjacent country high and dry. The water forming the cascade comes down the defile gently at first, but increases in turbulence and velocity with the greater ruggedness of the chasm. The volume varies at different seasons of the year: in the autumn there is just sufficient to compose a filmy, nebulous screen, with a fringe as of floss silk. Above all is sunshine; below it is dark and dank as a cavern. A wilder or more uncouth region than this could hardly be imagined, but the inspiration which attaches to the sight effectually supplants any feeling of dread that might otherwise come over the beholder, who, though he may have seen the Alleghanies in their numerous aspects, finds so much of novelty here that his stay is generally prolonged until wet clothes predicate the desira- bility of more hospitable quarters. It would doubtless take a week's dili- gent rambling to ferret out the places in and about Ohio Pyle that would well repay exertion to discover. But all were ready to return to the hotel- and after a severe tug back to the road, and waiting some time for the one-horse show to make its appearance, the party jogged down the hill, coming upon the vehicle about half-way, the driver belaboring the poor beast, and the latter paying about as much attention to it as if he had been a mule. Now was Ben's golden opportunity to exhibit his fitness for any emergency. He was big enough and strong enough to almost carry the horse himself, and when he caught hold of the lines and lay back the obstinate equine concluded that he was willing to proceed Then there was a down-hill trot that few would care to experience a second time. In exact ratio to his disinclination to go up hill that horse went down hill, the quartet jumbled up with the driver and holding on for dear iile. Just before reaching the hotel there was something of an ascent and here the difficulty was to keep from sliding out of the wagon at the 132 Romance and Radliy. rear end, the old nag still giving evidence of direct descent from a racing family. There vpas no end of fun in the helter-skelter jaunt, and the buxom maidens by the wayside, with whom Ben made some attempt to flirt, looked as if they had unexpectedly come upon a Zoo turned loose. That night a run was made up the road nine miles to the mouth of Indian Creek, where it empties into the Youghiogheny. The air was balmy and pure, and the perfect stillness was broken only by the sub- dued murmurs of the locomotive as it stood upon the track. The twinkle of a light could be dimly seen upon the mountain in the distance, its only companion in all the darkness being the flicker from the windows of the station-house. Soon the impenetrable gloom beyond the mountain-tops gave place to streaks of softly-shaded light becoming gradually brighter and brighter as the queen of the night ascended almost imperceptibly to her throne in the skies. The peaks seemed to stand out to treble their ordinary proportions as the silvery rays announced the approaching disk. The phantom clouds anon glided athwart her pale beams ; and as the empress of the heavens rose to her zenith the palpitating waters glistened as it were in the sheen of myriads of gems. The mountains on every side became stronger in outline, and every trembling leaf and interming- ling bough was touched by the mystic spell. Now the base of the mighty range is in the glow, and the light creeping up soon the crest stands out in bold relief against the luminous sky, and the scene partakes of Fai/v land. It was truly a realization of all that had been promised. So bright was the road ahead that the quartet resolved to go on to Pittsburgh by moonlight, and the ride was one which the flight of time will not soon erase from the remembrance of those who composed the company. Two-thirds of the distance to Pittsburgh covered and Connellsville is reached. Here is another busy center of coal interests, and noted as the most extensive coke depot in the United States. It is the entrepot of the coke region, and from now on branches will be marked from the main stem, extending in almost every direction, and bringing the enor- mous business of the multitudinous tributary ovens to the line. Some conception may be formed of the extent of the coke traffic when it is stated that there are upward of five thousand ovens on the Pittsburgh Division and branches radiating from it. The coke is shipped to all parts of the continent and to Europe, and statistics showing the number of car- loads handled every year would surprise the majority of people who have no idea of the amount that is consumed. Connellsville is the junction of the branch to Uniontown, twelve and a half miles distant. It is in fact just so many miles of coke-ovens. Seven miles from Uniontown are the noted Fayette Springs. Three miles west of Connellsville is Broad Ford, whence a branch line extends to Mount Pleasant, ten miles, and there are not only coke-ovens on one side of the road, but on both sides almost, if Picturesque B. (nuJ O. not quite, without in the limits ot the almost as lioht as of the innumerable fire-vomiting chimneys of thi darkness and give the place intermission. With- metropolis night is day, the fierce glare coke-ovens, the high iron-works, and the open furnaces, dispel a weird, unearthly appearance. And it is thus nearly all the way to Pittsburgh: first there are long lines of open- mouthed ovens sending their peculiar thin and noxious smoke upward on the right, and then a mile or two and another long line of these brazen-throated fire-eaters, the river just beyond assuming a hue as if molten streams of lava had been poured out upon its surface. It is di- rectly between counter-fires, for upon the opposite side of the river are more coke-ovens; and so the line runs, — coke-ovens here, there and every- where, and the whole territory alive as it were with begrimed workers of the night. Just below Connellsville is the magnificent new bridge, now in the last stage of completion, and over which will pass the through trains on the B. and O. road from Chicago by what is known as the Wheel- ing cut-off. This new line of railroad is now in course of construction, 134 Into New Territory. and will shorten tlie time of travel between New York and Chicago by- three or four hours. At McKeesport, a thriving busy place where reside thousands of miners, and where capital is employed with unstinted hand, the Youghiogheny meets the Monongahela, and the two rivers join in one continuous flow. Just before arriving at Pittsburgh the Edgar Thompson steel-works are passed, the great area covered by the company being lit up by electric lights, the effect of which, seen from the train, is very striking. In the glare and the shadows of the electricity the workmen look like giants, and their flitting about peoples the place with ghostly visions. Pitts- burgh, while already a very important point in the B. and O. system, will soon become much more so, the completion of the Junction road insuring unsurpassed facilities which, by the way, will be entirely and exclusively independent of those possessed by the competing company. As it is now, a change of cars is necessitated at Pittsburgh for Cleve- land, Detroit, and other western cities, but it is the only change between Washington and these points. With the completion of the route through Pittsburgh there will be no change whatever to the places named, or to the great oil regions, Buffalo, Rochester, and other centers that are now practically non-competing from a railroad point of view. By the B. and O. it is seventy odd miles shorter from Cleveland to the National Capital than by any other line, and from Detroit nearly ninety miles shorter. The opening up of such a range of essentially new territory to the Baltimore and Ohio road, with the advantages of direct communication to the great lake regions, will much increase the magnitude of its system, which is already one of the largest in extent in the world. Back to Cumberland again was but the run of a little over five hours, as the distance is only one hundred and fifty miles. IN THE MOUNTAINS. From this time forward the route is upon the main line of the B. and 0. direct to the West, with no more side tours over branches or divisions, but the one preeminently grand tour — that over the Alleghany Mountains. While much has been seen of the picturesque in the roving of the quartet, there is to come that which in comparison is but as the work of th(! amateur likened to the chef cVmuvre of the master. True it is that the Valley of the Virginia presents a varied panorama, gk Picturesque B. and 0. 135 detail and Wonderful in contrasts, but the Old Alleghanies themselves are the very personification of artistic imagination, — of all that is grand, wild and tremendous in granite upheavals. The best of descriptive writers, — those whose play of imagination enables them to find words for almost every novel or striking object, and whose acquaintance with the dic- tionary and with synonyms affords them an unlimited fluency of expression, — have confessed in the past, as they must do in the future, their inability to do the Alleghanies absolute justice. The literary ability of the Fairy, if indeed possessed qualifications worthy of being thus designated, had more than once upon the trip been taxed to the utmost to find fitting language in which to express what to the eye is quickly appreciated, but which to con- vey to paper is entirely another thing. It would have been an easier task hai the trip been made from west to east instead of vice versa, for then the in- spiration of the ride over the Allegha- nies might have found vent in terms and similes which were fresh and at 136 .1 Long ami n Stro,,;/ Pull. command. Now, however, after the glowing descriptions already writ- ten, to expect him to record accurately the journey from the head of the Potomac to the Ohio was asking more than was in him. Not that his enthusiasm had subsided, or that appreciation had failed to kindle in him an all-controlling desire to proclaim to the world the glories of the scenery, which follow one upon the other so rapidly as to be almost over- powering in their matchless and impressive sublimity. Those whose hap- piness it has been to cross the Alleghanies on the B. and O. by daylight need not be told that there is no line of railroad in this country, if indeed in the world, that can be compared to it for variety of moun- tain scenery. The fact that it is known far and wide as the " Picturesque Line of America " is but a proof of the distinction which is unques- tionably its due. Those who are strangers to the comforts, conveniences and enjoyments of the road can have no conception of them except by actual experience ; and while the effort to picture the journey will be most earnest, the |M>ilrayal will certainly fall far short of proving perfect. From Cumlii'ihiinl iliiiiiio-h Will's Gap an acquaintance is once more resumed with thi- I'litoinar. whose banks gradually come into closer prox- imity, the water getting more shallow and much clearer, so that the pebbles and moss at the bottom become distinctly visible, as if nothing intervened but a sheet of glass. At Keyser are the extensive cattle-yards of the Company, which, together with other established interests, render this a place of considera- ble thrift. Just here the road is through a dark chasm, where the ledges thrusting out on either side cast a deep gloom over the track and train alike. Piedmont, five miles farther, is, as the name implies, the foot as it were to the ascent of the mountains. Its appearance is not particularly inviting, but from a business standpoint it has attractions which com- mercial men quickly appreciate. The B. and O. Company has large shops here, as it is the terminus of a division of the road. The location is an exceedingly happy one, being not merely at the base of an abruptly-rising range, but in a ravine down which hurls a torrent and whose shores are thickly wooded. Here commences the seventeen-mile grade, as railroad- men call it, and it is one stretch of grandeur that is, perhaps, without an equal. The locomotive at once gives evidence of the strain to which it is subjected in conquering the steadily-increasing altitude, and its hoarse breathings are echoed in the recesses of the distant mountains, where they die away in the still atmosphere that reverberates its sighful re- sponse. The Potomac, dwindling into comparatively insignificant pro- portions, loses itself at last in the hidden springs of its .source. The good-bye to the,familiiir thread of water is with regret: but for this the fury of Savage Itucr, which |iliiiincs cmw.inl lietwi'cn the gorges 138 Three. Thousand Feet Up. of the peak from which it derives its name, abundantly compensates. Deeper now and more sonorous the engine growls as it grasps the steel- clad steps in its steep ascent, and more distant the river that runs in its rocky channel far below. There is a turn in the mountain-side, and the steam-choked motor is allowed a few moments' respite. Meanwhile the eye of the traveler is delighted with what would seem to be an infinity of space were its width not limited by the walls of the gorge, upon the rugged edges of which are to be found growing in scant soil the spruce and the pine. Struggling waters trickle down the crumbling sandstone, and vegetation of a sparse description hangs over on the verge of despair. Openings here, great rents in the rocks there, and century-battered peaks that reach appealingly to the clouds, as if in agony at the ruthlessness of the elements which they send down upon them. In short the entire picture is one continuous testimony to the complete ruin that has been effected by volcanic action. Back around the curve once more, so abrupt and so rocky is the path ahead that one involuntarily pays silent tribute to the hardy men who crushed the mountains and took from their very breasts the substance which now constitutes so solid a base for the train. Here is Nature in her glory; here she reigns in majesty undisputed, her power untrammeled, and her sway absolute. Men have dared to defile rocks and trees, but the ruins of the old mill which was to saw in twain the monarchs of the forest tell how futile the effort. The structure, long since gone to decay, now only demonstrates the contrast between the hand of man and that of Nature. Progressing by slow strides the engine is once more within the confines of mountain solemnity, and there is no other evidence of human existence than the seared rocks, the cross-ties, and the steel over which the way is made. The ascent continues, and the aptly-named station Altamont comes into view, and the snorting and long-suppressed efforts of the steam to escape from the great iron-bound boiler cease. The mountains are row below, for the train has reached the summit and the eye roams at will over the billowy masses. Savage River had gone no man could tell where, and its place had been taken by another and then another stream; and Crabtree Gorge, the last opening that had been passed through in the upward course, now presented the aspect of an exceedingly narrow ravine. The only wonder seemed to be how a railroad train could ever penetrate its granite depths. The elevation is now nearly three thousand feet above tide-water, and the atmospheric change is at once perceptible. The lungs, stirred to unwonted activity by the exhilarating draught, expand to new action, and one stands more erect, feeling that there is much in life, and that he is infinitely better prepared to enjoy it when every physical power is so invigoratingly stimulated. E HEART OF THE ALLEGHANIES — CHEAT RIVER. THE GLADES. The train stands upon the urest of the range that divides the waters flowing tlirougli the Ohio and the Mississippi to the Gulf of Mexico on the west, and those which feed the Potomac and the Chesapeake until they empty into the Atlantic on the east. Here is the head of the Youghiogheny, and its width is but a man's step. The lay of the country, as the expression goes, is of the meadow order, with undulating surface and billowy eminences. A three miles' jaunt and Deer Park comes into view, its location upon the brow of a long sloping promontory striking the observer at first sight as singularly pic- turesque. The enterprise and liberality of the Baltimore and Ohio Rail- road Company made the Glades habitable, and more than this the most enjoyable section which can be found anywhere within a day's ride of the leading cities not only of the East but of the M^est as well. It is less than twenty-four hours' ride to Chicago or Saint Louis, and leaving Cincinnati in the evening, breakfast the following morning is taken on top of the Alleghanies. So too from New York and Philadelphia, as it is only a single night's ride from either of these cities, and from Baltimore and Washington but the matter of eight or nine hours, with three fast express trains in both directions each day. The facility with which the Glades are reached is a strong point in favor of Deer Park, and also of Oakland, the twin resort being only three miles distant. No stage riding or journeying in vehicle of any kind is necessitated, as both places are immediately adjacent to the track, and in pleasant weather few if any of the guests think of any other power of locomotion in going from depot to hotel than that which they themselves possess. The Com- jiany has expended money with almost prodigal hand on these two resorts. Improvements and additions have just been completed which will, it is estimated, double their capacity and meet every requirement which may have been deemed wanting. It would be a task to conjecture what might have been lacking other than increased accommodations to realize demands and insure satisfaction. So popular are these houses that heretofore only those who came at the commencement of the season were certain of enter- tainment, and it was not an infrequent occurrence — last season, at all events — to decline the reception of more guests than the house contained. The rei>utation of the culinary department is such that heads of families who could sjiend only Sundays with their families at these resorts looked forw.ird tu thcii' brief visit with as keen anticipations of the good things for the inner man as of those for the outer man. It is not the easiest Picturesque B. and O. BLrkllOUN w \i world to decide upon IN. a place where one can pass the summer time iujov not only the comforts of home in g-f iieral, but also the satisfaction of knowing that tlie table will not be such as to make a man wonder why he gave up housekeeping, even temporarily, to be subjected to such aggravations of appetite. Although not the rule, perhaps, at the average summer resort to allow guests to draw their sus- tenance mainly from the scenery, yet it is evident, from the way many of them are managed, that the proprietors' convictions are pretty firm that such sort of repasts are to a certain extent soul-satisfying. Neither is it always considered desirable even to lay carpet upon the floor of the rooms, at least other than a little strip by the bedside; and auA'thing in the way of a box to place a wash-basin on and a four-by-six-inch mirror to make toilet by are thought to be good enough for visitors. Whatever may be the rule followed at some other places, it has no controlling influence at Deer Park or Oakland, as every room at both resorts is carpeted and pro- 142 Everi/ Detail Complete. vided with furniture of the most substantial character, in designs pleasing to the eye and meeting all the requirements of practical use. Patrons may take their choice of location. Should one desire to be out upon the open mountain with an unobstructed view of many miles extent, and with more country rambles than he can ever make in a stay of reasonable length, he may stop at Deer Park. On the other hand, if it pleases him best to be quartered where noble old trees cast over him their protecting shade; if he loves to sit where his eye can roam down through clustering foliage affording here and there glimpses of clear and sparkling streams, alighting presently upon the snug and peaceful village of stores and churches and cozy homes, then he will go to Oakland. Perchance he may prefer a variety, spending a portion of his time at the one place and a portion at the other. In such a case the wish need be no more than father to the accomplishment. A fine road connects the two re- sorts, affording a taste of mountain driving and valley speeding, with the only regret that it is not double the distance. During the season it is almost a boulevard, presenting as it does all the animated appearance of a fashionable drive. Many of the guests having their own equipages make daily trips backward and forward. Others not so provided are afforded ample privileges to enjoy their liking for a spirited drive, as the livery facilities are all that the most exacting could wish for. The main building at Deer Park has by the recent improvements been enlarged and the dining-room increased to double its former capacity. Flanking either side of the hotel are the new annexes, — the architecture of the Queen Anne order, — and their e.xterior adding greatly to the ornamental attrac- tiveness of the place. They are connected by light and graceful passage- ways, covered overhead and so arranged as to be closed on all sides in inclement weather. In the west annex is a ball-room, — one of the most spacious and best arranged to be found at any summer resort. To attempt to detail the number of places where guests may take a walk or choose for a day's picnicing, or for other enjoyments, would be almost like count- ing the sands upon the seashore. In so wide and varied an extent of cfiuntrv as the Glades one may find new delights every day of the season. Ainoni;- citli(>r inqirdvcniciits made liy th<> B. and O. Company at Oak- hind a. wini;- has liccn l)uilt on the cast ciiil nf the same length as that on (he west, and both ends are supplemented with entirely new structures, so I hat the walk to the end of the halls is something of a journey. Also a new liall-room has been provided, and this is one of the more prominent fcatiiris of Oakland, as it is of Deer Park. It is an extension back toward till' iiHiuntain from the east wing and opening from the main parlor, as well as out upon the gallery. Excellent musical organizations have been perfected for both resorts, and there will be concerts during the day and balls every evening. The character of the guests at Deer Park and Picturesque B. and O. 143 Oakland has since the first opening of the resorts been strictly of the liighest order. The old aristocratic families of Baltimore, \^ ashington and Philadelphia have for many seasons spent the summer in the Glades of the Alleghanies, and of late years Western people have become attached to the locality, and not a few of the best-known families regularly make the season at Deer Park or else at Oakland. The result is that the social aspect at either of these places corresponds with that which is found at only a few of the summer resorts, and the friendships estab- lished during the summer very often last for life. Of the beneficial effects of a sojourn at this altitude little need be said, as those who have studied the advantages of pure, brcozx air, and of an atmosphere that never during the hot- ;. test months exceeds 70°, and invariably at night is sufficicntlv cool to necessi tdte thf use ot blankets, and plent\ of them, are faiiuliu ^Mtll tli( fa.fs of 144 Rod and Gun. the case. There are now accommodations at Deer Park and Oakland for fully a thousand people, and the houses under the immediate personal management, as they are, of one of the best-known and most popular hotel men in the country, there can be no question of the entertainment being all that the most particular could demand. The Company has just issued an attractive little book entitled "The Glades of the Alleghanies," which is specially devoted to descriptive and practical matter relative to the two resorts. Prospective visitors will be amply repaid for the little trouble they may take to write for this publication, which can be had by addressing the Company at Baltimore or, after the middle of June, at the hotels direct. An important characteristic of the Glades, and one which it would be inexcusable to neglect to mention, considering the numbers who par- ticipate in the sport, are the facilities for hunting, which are first-class, game being abundant in the vicinity. It is no uncommon thing to meet, in the office or halls of either Deer Park or Oakland, gentlemen attired in flannel shirts, closely-belted blouses and high top-boots, their ruddy com- plexions and springy step denoting recuperated powers and perfect health. There are day jaunts almost without number, and for a week's camping out there is no section east of the Rocky Mountains to be compared with the Blackwater country back in the mountains, a day's travel from Oak- land. In this wild and almost untrodden region there is game in great plenty, large as well as small, and of an endless variety. The fishing is on a par with the hunting, the strings of trout sent back being not infre- quently of such dimensions as to warrant the introduction of the delicacy upon the hotel bill - of - fares. There is good fishing nearer by, but the Blackwater is the king of all streams for trout. From early in the spring until late in the fall the B. and O. grants tickets from all principal points on its lines to these resorts at scarcely more than the regular fare one way, and during the sea.son many through passengers to the < ast or west, as the case may be, take advantage of the privilege allowed i hem on their tickets of stopping over to spend such time as they may have at command in enjoying the entertainment at one or the other of the Company's hotels. ON TO THE WEST. The Four formed a group upon the rear platform of the car as the train left Oakland, but the view of the lovely resort was quickly lost. A sharp curve in the road, witii the mountains, shut out from sight every- Picturesque li. and O. CHEAT UIVER, NEAR R0WLE8BURG. thing but their own granite countenances. The line of Maryland was shortly recrossed and the train once more in West Virginia, the labored respiration of the engine indicating unmistakably the fact that the grade was a heavy one; and another bend in the track soon qualified the indica- tion, as a glance down the precipitous side of the mountain hardly reached the river below. River, however, it could not in justice be called, as it is barely ton feet across; but it makes up in depth what it lacks in breadth as it rushes, with great velocity on its sparkling way to some unknown point of junction with sister waters. A run of ten miles brought the quartet to Cranberry SuniTiiit, whence is exhibited a panorama of wide extent. Tt partakes of the valley char- acter, notwithstanding its high elevation. The surrounding peaks are not so distinctly marked as they are from a lower altitude. Pastoral beauties enter into the scene, there being little patches of wheat and other grain that betoken the efforts of the husbandman to obtain from 146 Where Mc Clellan. Chased Floyd. the kindly earth a suitable return for his honest toil. Looking westward the hills grow more symmetrical and more sharply outlined. Back of them is a clearly-defined range of mountains, and still beyond is seen a solitary peak rising up high and bold as the center of observation. A deviation in the line of the road revealed a gorge which, opening up on either side, displayed Salt Lick Falls. The fall of water is not great, but is most attractive for its graceful forms and delicate transparency. The iron steed now makes better time, as it is on a down-grade, and for a change it is not unpleasant to watch the rapidly-approaching stream and the increasing elevation of the rocky walls adjacent. The density of the forest through which the train cuts its way now served to shut out every- thing else, and the attention of the quartet was for the nonce turned to themselves. This lasted scarcely a moment, for Rowlesburg came into view, and the first sight of Cheat River was obtained. The stream, con- trary to the usual rule, is well named, for it is like the thimble-rigger's marble, " now you see it and now you don't." But the conundrum of its source was trifling compared with how the train was ever going to get free of the prodigious piles of rock that appeared to wall in the place like an amphitheater. To go straight ahead would be to butt square up against a bulwark of granite beside which the dome of the Capitol at Washington would be as a fly-speck. Twisting and turning, dashing up to the very face of the rock here and almost leaping a stream there, the train extricated itself from the apparently impenetrable caiion only to be as inevitably hemmed in by another. So close is the companionship of these ponderous giants of granite that the sun at certain seasons of the year rarely dissipates the shadows, while during the summer months its rays are shut out until ten or eleven o'clock. It was at the southern extremity of this series of wild gorges that the preliminary skirmishing of the war occurred, McClellan chasing Floyd down the Cheat River and succeeding in inflicting such punishment upon him that the Confederate troops became demoralized and fled in all directions. Not a few of them were entirely unacquainted with the trackless section, and naught was ever known of them save that their companies' rolls bore the melancholy report " missing." No longer does the engine proceed on its way quiet and tractable, but instead the tremendous throbbing tells of the sharpness of the ascent; and one need not lean out of the car-window to realize the increasing ele- vation, for the railroad runs to the verge of the chasm. Down, down, as far as the eye can reach, the mighty torrent rushes and tumbles in great jumps over gigantic rocks that have broken away from above and settled in the narrow bed. The mountains on the other side rise abruptly thousands of feet in height, and nowhere in all the great forest that covers them can the eye of man detect a break, so ('lose is the growth. Picturesque B. and 0. 147 The train passes along the ledges, relinquishing one only to climb an- other of greater elevation than before, the river meanwhile becoming like a silver thread. Up in the dizzy heights the line of the road pursues its course, and the traveler can look dovrn on one side into nearly impene- trable depths, and on the other side the bleak rocks tower grim and for- bidding. The awful crevices made in some of them by the tireless action of time have caused large, overhanging crags to form almost an archway beneath which the engine runs. Many of these are almost startling in shape, — some of them resembling gigantic heads surmounted by sparsely clothed spruce-trees, with tiieir naked arms stretched out beseechingly, as it were for mercy. -^^ N" succnr can ^Mgb, reach them, for no foot can ap- TO . proach their ffBo' "Sfei habitation : there they ""^^f^ • - "'^ --<» 'imst .stand while i ^^ ^ ' ' -f ' fiS'"5 8" on until the angry heavens destroy them with its bolt {^Z w * ■ liquid fire, or through the unrelenting bitterness of ^^mP /w ^^'^ ^^'""^ ^^'^^ ^'"'^ robbed of their existence; then they ^^jP' ( y totter and fall, always clear of the track, to the foot of ^■H^ the gorge below, where they are ruthlessly battered about by the furious waters or perchance some portion of them is thrown up on a barren spot to rot. The mighty buttresses of rock continue to fall into line, as it were, like giant soldiers to repel the advance of man; but the while they rear their repellent heads the train glides in and about their feet with impunity. From shelf to shelf, from crag to crag, from brink to brink, move the swift-revolving wheels, the eye, forced to follow the declivities of th<- inclosing walls, endeavoring to find rest upon the boiling waters of the pent-up river. 148 The Very Heart. Like a flash comes the transformation, and for a moment one can scarcely believe that it is the heart of the Alleghanies. Here to the right is a garden-patch presenting all the exquisite combinations of colors to be found in the choicest of plants and foliage. From the heart of the serpentine walks, the rich-hued hedges, and the trembling lily-stalks, spring the bright, chaste waters which have been stolen from a mountain brooklet and lifted up to add fresh sweetness to the pure atmosphere. The intelligence and taste manifested in this little floricultural display were not of an ordinary kind; indeed the mind that conceived and the hands that developed this little gem are to be envied. This is Buckhorn Wall, the most noted and the most admired view that can be had from any known point in the Alleghany range. It has been the theme of many descriptions and the inspiration of not a few of the most distinguished triumphs of artistic culture. To enable the road to span the tremendous gorge a massive wall was constructed of cut stone for a distance of several hundred feet and to the depth of more than one hundred feet. Looking directly down from a position on the great flat stones forming the upper barrier, the declivity to the end of the masonry itself is appall- ing, but with four times the number of feet added to it the distance to the water-level is not overestimated. The river makes a bold turn at nearly right-angles, and this opens up to view a deep cafion extending for miles, which is guarded by mountain peaks compared to which those beheld elsewhere on the journey are as infants. Line upon line distinctly trace the contour of the mountain, until they become a labyrinth, the way between them indicated only by the stream which has become placid and smooth as ivory. The shadowy outlines of other peaks steal out from the haze, and in the blue of the lessening distance almost lead one to doubt whether they are really substance or merely formations of rapidly-shifting clouds. Their hoary heads seem to bid welcome to the Alleghanies over which they have for untold centuries kept watch and guard. Directly opposite, in the middle ground, so to speak, towers up the tallest moun- tain of all; its configuration is visible to the water's edge. Its symmetrical proportions are cause for wonderment that any upheaval of nature should have assumed such a shape. Like its fellows, its form, though graceful, is still weird in the extreme. The interlocked trees pad its breast with the most pleasing shades of green, but the awe is nevertheless over- powering, and man feels his littleness of stature in the presence of such giant works of nature. Nothing could be in stronger contrast to this wild and unrestrained grandeur than the tropical brilliancy of colors on the little spot which has been reclaimed from out all this wilderness of untamed creation. From the cliff thus overtopped hy blooming beauty falls a cataract, its [learly waters breaking over sharp ledges of rock, trickling here and merrily sporting there with projecting shelves, and at Pictumsquc, B. and O. 149 last, in one supreme leap, falling to the lowest depths. Down on the steep river banks men have toiled almost in vain to find a resting-place, that speckled beauties may be enticed from the water and taken as trophies of the perilous descent to obtain them. A plunge through the rocky gap at the western extremity and Buck- horn Wall is gone; so too the river, and for a time the journey appears to have lost its charm; but other attractions soon demand attention, and though the route may not be so ineffably grand, .still it has much to please the eye, even that of an artist. As the train glides to lower alti- tudes the country opens up, and in place of the savage and uncultivated in nature there come familiar scenes, which carry the beholder back to real life, and take away, to a certain extent, the great tension which the nerves have been called upon to sustain for so manj' hours. It might be imagined from this that there are terrors in crossing the Alleghanies, and that the transit were one of comparative pain rather than unalloyed pleas- ure; this, however, is not the fact, for the most timid have no cause for apprehension. The track of the road, laid as it is upon the solid rock, the force of men stationed all along the route, and the necessary reduction of speed in ascending and descending heavy grades, do away with all possi- bility of accident and fortifies the passenger with perfect confidence that no road could be safer and none less liable to untoward accidents. The strain is in the unusual atmosphere pervading the mountains, in the wild witchery of the savage gorges, the precipitous cliffs and angry waters. He is indeed to be compassionated who could make the journey over the Alleghanies without having his heart stirred to the highest degree and his senses made willing captive to the wonderful scenery which belongs to them. Grafton is the end of the third division of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, and is possibly the busiest junction point on the entire line, since the trains diverge here for Parkersburg, Cincinnati and Saint Louis, as well as for Wheeling and Chicago. Another of the Company's hotels is to be found at Grafton. The renovations and improvements which have been lately made add materially to its capacity for the prompt and satis- factory entertainment of guests. Clarksburg, W. Va., on the line to Parkersburg, is one of the largest towns in the state, and was the birthplace of Stonewall Jackson. The gas-coal interests are here largely developed, as are also the petroleum, it being the center of very extensive oil-producing regions. The mineral-oil now so well known was named from a spring here, and for a number of years was valued only as a liniment, and as such was sold in large quan- tities. Crossing the Ohio at Parkersburg the Baltimore and Ohio trains pass directly on to Cincinnati and thence to Saint Louis without change. Baltimore, by the B. and O. road, is no less than two hundred and fifty 150 The Inevitable. nine miles the nearest seaport from Saint Louis, two hundred and sixty- two miles the nearest from Louisville, two hundred and twenty-five miles the nearest from Cincinnati, one hundred and fifty-six miles the nearest from Chicago, and one hundred and seventeen miles the nearest from Pittsburgh. These advantages of distance over those to New York from the cities named furnish the basis for the differential rates claimed by the B. and 0.; and this simple statement may serve to explain to those who are uninitiated the cause of the many prolonged contentions between the trunk lines over the matter of differentials. The northern trunk lines claim that freight rates to the seaport should be the same to New York as they are to Baltimore, and very naturally and sensibly the Baltimore and Ohio disputes this position, and, despite all the efforts to prevent it, has steadily maintained a tariff granting Baltimore the benefits of its geographical importance as the nearest of all the Atlantic seaport cities to the great commercial centers of the West. As there are doubtless many who are more or less mystified by the exact meaning of the words " trunk lines " a word or two in explanation may not be amiss. Let a person imagine the head and shoulders to be New England, and the legs and feet the West, and then remember that there are but four lines of railway between the East and the West, and it will at once be perceived that all the business between the sections must be done on these lines, or in other words that which comes from the feet and legs must pass through the trunk of the body to reach the head and arms, and vice versa. The force of the term " trunk lines " will from this be properly understood. From Grafton to Chicago, the fourth division, as it is called, of the Baltimore and Ohio terminates at the Ohio River, just below tiie city of Wheeling. Crossing the Ohio the road leads through such important business centers in the " Buckeye State " as Bellaire, Cambridge, Zanes- ville, Newark (from this point a branch extends to Columbus, thirty-three miles), Mansfield and Chicago Junction. This junction will in the near future acquire additional importance from the completion of two promi- nent lines of railway to an intersection of the B. and O. These will run direct to the West over the Chicago division of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. Between the junction and Chicago are Tiffin, Defiance, and other thriving cities, and the division bisects nearly, if not quite, all the leading lines that traverse the state. At Chicago, as well as at Cincinnati and Saint Louis, sharp and close connections are made with all routes leading to the West, Northwest and Southwest. INDEX, Alleshanies, The Heart of, 148. Altamont, 138. Auuiipolis, 48. Antietam, 59, 6.5, 70, 116. Ardent Spirits, 26. Ashby, Gen., 84. Baltimore, 18, 31, 140, 150. Banks, Gen., 70. Bath Alum Springs, 96. Bass fishing, 54. 55, 56, .57, 120, 121, 144. Beaver Dam Falls, 110. Ben, 12. B. & O., Origin of, 20; Preliminary meeting, 21; Early trials, 24; Credit, 35; Financial exhibit, 35; Surplus fund, 35; Stock, 36; New general office building, 44. Berkeley Springs, 118. Bellaire, 150. Bolivar Heights, 62. Breckenridge, Gen., 84. Brown, John, 63, 64, 68. Brown, Alexander. Brown, George. Brooks, Chauncey B., 34. Buchanan, President, 31. Buckhorn Wall, 148. Buffalo, 134. Butler, Gen. Ben, 39. Burnside, G£n., 66. Byrne's Island, 68. Cacapon, 120. Cambridge, 150. Capon Springs, 76. Carroll, Chas., of Carrollton, 22, 34. Cars, Through, 10; No.217,11; Sleeping, 14, 36, 112; Provision for smoking, 16; First passenger, 24; Parlor, 36, 112; Dining, 36, 126. Cedar Creek, 71. Charter, Railroad, first secured in the United States, 21; "More than the Lord's Prayer," 22. Charleston, 68. Chicaeo, 32, 140, 150. Cheat^River, 146, 148. Cincinnati, 31, 140, 149, 150. Clarksburg, 150. Cleveland, 134. Coal Fields, 124, 128. Coke, 132. Cooper, Peter, 37. Columbus, 150. Connelsville, 132. Corner Stone, Laying of, 22. Cranberry Summit, 145. Cross Keys, 84. Cucumber Palls, 130. Cumberland, 30, 123. Defiance, 150. Differential rates, 150. Detroit, 134. Devil's Backbone, 127. Dividends, First, 25. Dining halls, 124. Distances, Comparative, from seaport to West. 150. Dry Dock, 42. Early, Gen. .Tubal, 54, 71. Elevated roads, 9. Elevation, 138. Elevators, 36, 42. Ellicott, Thomas, 34. Ellicott's Mills, Opening of line to, 24. Emory, Gen., 72. Ewell, Gen., 70. Express, 36, 37. Fairy, The, 12. Falling Springs, 104. Fayette Springs, 132. Federal Hill, 39. Fremont, Gen., 84, 85. Frederick, 20, .54. Fritchie, Barbara, .52. Fix, A Virginia, 73. Floyd, Gen., 146. Garrett, John W., Chosen President, 31 ; His first annual report, 31 ; Keynote, 32; Management during the war, 32; Succession, 34 ; Character of adminis- tration, 34. Gettysburg, 60, 66. Glades, The, 140. Goslien Springs, 92. Grant, Gen., 70. Grafton, 149. Hagerstown, 59, Harrisonburg, 84. Harper's Ferry, 31, 60. Harrison, William G., 34. Hayes, Ex-President, 66. Healing Springs, 102. Hoffman, George, 34. Hot Springs, 100. Horses, Their use upon the road, 26; Horses m. steam, 28, 30. Hunting. 88, 104, 118,144. Indian Creek, 132. Jackson, Stonewall. 53, 64, 65, 6(i, 70, 71, 84,«5, 90, 112,150. Jack, Apple, 13. Jefferson Rock, 60. Jefferson, Thomas, 62. Johnstown, 128. Johnson, Gen. Joe, 64. Jones, Talbot, 34. Jordan Alum Springs, 94. Jordan's White Sulphur Springs, 68. Kearneysville, 116. Kernstown, 77. Keyser, 136. Key, Francis, 39. Lee, Gen. Robert E., (iO, fi4, 6.5, 66, 70, 90, 116. Lui-ay Cave, 114. Le.xington, 89. Lorman, William, 34. Loudon Heights, 62. Locust Point, 38 ; Water front, 39 ; Emi- grant piers, 89; Treatment of emi- grants. 40; Receipts of emigrants, 41 ; Nationality, 41 ; Advantages as to dis- t.-uK'o to western points, 41. Manslicld, 150. Maryland Heights, 62. Martinsburg, fl6. McClellan, Gen'l, 59, 64, 66, 146. McKibbon, Isaac, 34. McMahon, J. L. L, 34. Morris, John B., 34. McKeesport, 134. McLane, Lewis, 34. Millboro Springs, 96. Milroy, Gen., 70. Millboro. 94. Mount Jackson, 78. Mount Plca.sant, 132. Mount Vernon, 50. Natural Bridge, 89. New Market, 84. Newark, 150. Oakland, 140. Ohio Pyle, 128. Ohio Pyle Falls, 129. Old Sweet Springs, 108. Oliver, Robert, 34. Orkney Springs, 82. Parkersburg, 31 , 149, 150. Patterson, William, 34. Piedmont. 136. Pittsburgh, 33, 134. Point of Rocks, 54. Potomac, The, 52. Quaitet, The, 11. Railroads.— First in U. S., 20; Comple- tion to Ellicotfs Mills, 24 ; To the Poto- mac, 28; To Frederick, 20; To Har- per's Ferry, 30; To Washington, 30; Comjiletion to Cumberland, 20; To A\ll.'rli A I n, :;■ T,'. Chicago," 33; .- Inst strike, 30. "First pi; ,V, HO^ 1 . n;; Viaduct', 47. - ;.ili Trout Fishing, 88, 104, 118, 120, 144, 149. Trunk Lines, 1.50. W.illarr, (;,„. Lew, .54. \ :i-liiii:jii>ii, I';o|h.-im1 line from Bplti- iiM.,,. in '11 li^,..iii|,iPtion,30; Depot, IS. A,c,.->i,,i,uhli,- buildings, 49; Ad- vantages of arriving in and departing from the National Capital by B. and O., 50; Line of road through city, 50. 112. \\imlie-.,l,i, 70, 73,84. Y, T. Yellowstone, 11. Youghiogheny, The, 127 Zane.sville, 150. im^. ves, tKrouoK wKose broken roof tKe sk^ looks "n.^"^"^- aniain, and shaliered cliT] , and sunn'>^vale, ~^ 3 distant lake, foun-tains, and miaViW irees_ many a lazy syllable , repeahna ^ Bit old poetic leorends to the wind ." W^t^rt I: -o.*^' .iTi's %„<' /' i""*. "^T* 'M 0. --..o^- <-.:i^^^^ :r^\.o^ ii''%.„. '"m^-'y \-w-- y^' \ • xS -mm] xi. ■mm: if -mm] xi * ;*'^-^'/ <. ^ o -^li^/ .^■^' •- VM'^ y \