1 i iiiimmj imnij LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 1 iji 1 1 1 i 1 I : , „ 1 D ]D aam 73T3 ♦ il'.t!KI!i!l!l (lass Book_ COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT OldandMew St. LOUIS; A CONCISE HISTORY OF THE METROPOLIS OF THE WEST AND SOUTHWEST, WITH A REVIEW OF ITS PRESENT GREATNESS AND IMMEDIATE PROSPECTS, BY J 7^ 7V^ ES COX. Author of "St. Louis Tluoui^li a Camera." "The Carnival City of the ll'or/d, World's Fair," "Our Own Country,'' &c. Missouri at the ST. LOUIS, 1894: PUBLISHHD BY THE AUTHOR. iil'\ )!Ii.HT. IH'.M. .rA>IES (OX. v.. Vj^ 'Vy^^ Press of- -m^ CONTINENTAL PRINTING CO., 515 North Third Street, «-^ST. LOUIS. PUBLISHERS' NOTICE . THE PUBLICATION of "Old and New St. Louis" has been delayed far beyond the wishes of the publishers by the immense amount of work which had to be done, not (^nly in securing data concerning the lives and achievements of prominent men in the city, but also in having the necessary steel plates made. A large number of gentlemen who could not possibly be excluded from a work of this character have been absent from the city, and neither photographs nor biographical data could be obtained until they returned. The completeness of the work and the unprecedented and uniform excellence of tlie plates is ample justification for the delay. The introductory and historical chapters have been in print for upwards of a year, and since they were written a number of events have taken place which have greatly affected the city's standing and its prospects. The financial depression of i8g^ has been succeeded by a period of healthy reaction. No city in the United States with- stood the panic in such a thoroughly satisfactory manner as St. Louis, which has the proud record of no bank failure for a period of nearly nine years. St. Louis generally is in a much better condition financially and commercially than it was when the earlier chapters of this work were prepared, and it now stands before the world a model of financial strength and of conservative progressiveness. The largest Union Railroad Station in the world, described in Chapter V., was com- pleted during the summer of 1894 and .opened with befitting ceremonies at the com- mencement of the fall festi\-ities season. In every respect the depot has pro\-ed to be superior to expectation, and the words of praise written in anticipation of the completion of the work seem feeble and inadequate in view of the magnificent realization. The Planters Hotel, also described as in course of construction, was completed shortly after the New Union Station and was opened to the public immediately. Like the magnificent structure fourteen blocks farther west, the Planters Hotel — referred to in this work as the New Planters House, its exact title not having been determined upon until a recent date— far exceeds expectation. It is declared by experts to be one of the finest hotels in the world, and in many most important respects it is absolutely iv /'r/!/js'///-:A'.s- xor/c/;. unsurpassed and indeed unapproached. In the Bio.yraphical Appendix a record will be found of the li\'es of some of the men who have given to St. Louis this noble hostelry, and more particularlN' should credit be gix-en to Mr. Isaac S. Taylor. This accomplished architect not only conceived the unique plan upon which the hotel is constructed, but also superintended the work in every detail, preparing special designs on every possible opportunity and earning the praise and commendation, not only of the owners of the h(jtel, but also of the public generally and of the tra\-eling fraternity. The Autumnal Festi\aties Association, whose work is described in Chapter VII., having completed its program, went out of existence on October 9, 1894, to be suc- ceeded by the Business Men's League, another organization which is justly entitled to be included in the list of "aids to progress." The Veiled Prophet made his annual visit in October, preceded a few days by King Hotu, who, with his Funny Fellows, gave the first of a series of annual da\iight parades. The city's record as a convention gathering place has been more than maintained, and the Trans-Mississippi Convention, held at the Exposition Building in INo\-ember, brought to the city representative men fr()m all the Western States. Another event of importance to St. Louis, not referred to at length in the historical chapters for obvious reasons, was the launching of the Steamship St. Louis at Philadel- phia (^n November 12, 1894. This magnificent steamship, the largest ever constructed in America, will carry the American flag between the United States and Europe. As soon as work commenced on this vessel, the Bureau of Information of the Autumnal Festivities Association entered into C(immunication with Mr. Griscom, president of the International Navigation Company, and suggested to him that the ship be named "St. Louis," in honor of the great metr(^polis of the West and Southwest. The sugges- tion was favorably entertained, and subsequently a meeting was called at the mayor's office which resulted in a committee being appointed to \-isit Philadelphia. On their arrival at the City of Brotherly Lo\e the committee found that tlie request already made to President Grisci^n had been complied with. It accordingly pledged the city to make a suitable presentation to the ship in recognition of the courtesy extended. A large party of St. Louisans went to Philadelphia to be present at the launching, and when the great ship commenced to glide gracefully into the water, Mrs. Clewland broke a bottle of St. Louis champagne upon it and christened it in due form. During 1894 a practical test has been made of the new water-works, which come up to every expectatit)n. The street car equipment of the cit\' has also been \'astly PUBLISHERS' NOTICE. V improved. The table of milea.ye given on page 77 does not now represent the actual mileage of St. Louis street railways. Thus the Union Depot system, wliich is credited with tlfty-five miles of track, has now seventy-six miles. The most important addition to its service has been the Grand Avenue division, the work on which is now nearly complete, and which will provide a most important north and south road. The Lindell company has increased its mileage from forty-one to tlfty-hve miles. The most impor- tant addition to its service has been the Compton Heights division, with a total mileage of eleven. This line .connects the Eads Bridge and the new Union Station with a dis- trict in the southwest which is very thickly populated. The Bad^ Railway Company has ceased to exist, and the old horse-car line has been replaced by a double-track electric road, operated by the owners of the Broadway cable. The total mileage of track in the city is now 208, with forty-five additional miles authorized and about to be con- structed. At the present time the percentage of cable to electric road is as one and eight. This percentage will be still further decreased by the substitution of electricity for cable power on the Citizen's road, or Franklin Avenue cable, as it is more generally called, the change being now nearly complete. St. Louis, December, 1894. Table of content s. CHAPTER I . PAGE. Old St. Louis: From the Founding of the Tradino; Post in 17(U to the Adoption of the City vSchenie and Charter in 1876, - - - - - - - - - '* CHAPTER II. Nkw vSt. Lori.s: Some of the Influences which Brought About the City's Second Birth. — A Succession of Triumphs, ....------ 20 CHAPTER III. Manuf.\ctures: a Brief Summary of the Immense Importance of the Manufacturing Interests of New St. Louis, ----------- 27 CHAPTER IV. Tr.\de and Commerce: St. Louis Territory and the Way in which Its Orders for Merchan- dise are Executed, ------------ 45 CHAPTER V. Railro.\d .\nd River Facilities: The Best Raihoad Center in the United States. — The Largest City on the Largest River in the Workl. — The Largest Railroad Station in the World, ' - - -' - 58 CHAPTER \' I . R.\PID Tr.\nsit and Its Influences: Early Struggles of Omnibus and Street Car Com- panies. — The Introduction of Cable and Electric Power. — The P^ffect on Improvements and \'alues, ------------- 70 C H A P T E R \' I I . Some Aids to Progress: The Veiled Prophet, Autumnal Festivities Association, Illumi- nations, Exposition and Fair. — Conventions. — Commercial Organizations, - - 71^1 CHAPTER \' I I I . p-iNANCE AND Banking: New St. Louis an Important Financial Center. — Bank Clearings. — Trust Companies and Building Associations, ------- 89 CHAPTER IX. Building Improvements: One Hundred Miles of Street Frontage Built Upon in Three Years. — Histor\- of the Fire-Proof Ofifice-Building Era. — Investments and Improve- ments and Their Influence upon Values, - . - - . - . i)4 CHAPTERX. Municipal Development: The New Water-Works.— New City Hall. — New St. Louis, the Pioneer in Street vSprinkling and Electric Lighting, ----- 105 CHAPTER XI. Social Advantages: A Clean Bill of Health and Its Causes. — -Educational Facilities. — Art. — Libraries. — Churches. — Music. — Theaters. — Clubs. — Hotels. — Bench and Bar. — Medieal. — ^Journalism, --.---..--- 115 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. CHAPTER I. OLD ST. LOUIS. FROM THE FOUNDING OF THE TRADING POST IN 1764, TO THE ADOPTION OF THE CITY SCHEME AND CHARTER IN 1S76. ^^HE TRADING POST from which has \ / grown the fifth largest city in the (g) (s) United States was established in ITIU, in which year Augnste Chouteau, with about thirty followers, lauded at the foot of what is now known as Walnut street. The founders of the city erected a few log cabins on the ground subsequently occupied by Barnum's Hotel, and here they were joined by Pierre Liguest L,aclede (or Pierre Laclede lyiguest, as he seems to have signed his name), by whose directions the settlement had been made. Authorities differ concerning the origin of the name by which the city has been known from the first. The theory generally accepted to-day is that Laclede christened the settlement " St. Louis " in honor of the canonized monarch of France, though quite a large number of well- informed writers assert that he gave it the name as a mark of respect and lo\-alty to Louis XV., who then occupied the F"reucli throne, and whose patron saint was Louis IX. In explanation of this latter theory, it is argued that Laclede was not aware that the territory west of the Missis- sippi River had been ceded to Spain, and that he only learned of his error the following year, when, to his intense grief and disgust, he became acquainted with the terms of the treaty of Paris of 1703. But, however this may have been, the early settlers were almost exclu- sively French; and, although the territory was nominally under Spanish go\'ernment, little ef- fort was made to assert authority or to introduce the Spanish language or customs. The history of the trading post during the eighteenth cen- tur)' has been written at length by several com- petent authorities. The adventures of the hardy pioneers were more thrilling than important, and for the purposes of this review it is suffi- cient to state that when the famous Louisiana purchase was completed in the year 1803, the population of St. Louis was still less than a thousand, with Carondelet as a separate trading post or town, with a population about one-fifth that of St. Louis itself. An excellent pen picture of St. Louis at the time of its passing into the hands of the United States is given by Richard Edwards in his "Great West." "There was," we are told, "but one baker in the town, by the name of LeClerc, who baked for the garrison, and who lived in Main street, between what is now known as Elm and Walnut. There were three blacksmiths, Delosier, who resided in Main .street, near Morgan; Recontre, wdio lived in Main, near Carr, and Valois, who resided in Main, near Elm, and did the work for the gov- ernment. There was but one physician, who was 10 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. Dr. vSaugrain, who practiced many years after the territory passed into the possession of the Aniericau government, and who lived on Second street. " There were but two little French taverns in the town, one kept by Yostic, and the other by Landreville, chiefly to accommodate the couriers dcs hois (hunters) and the voyagcurs (boatmen) of the Mississippi. These little taverns, visited by the brave, daring and reckless men, who lived three-fourths of the time remote from civ- ilization, in the wild solitudes of the forests and rivers, and in constant intercourse with the sav- ages, were the very nurseries of legendary nar- ratives, where the hunters, the trappers and the boatmen, all mingling together under the genial excitement of convivial influences, would relate perilous adventures, hair-breadth escapes; deaths of comrades and families by the tomahawk, star- vation and at tlie iire-stake; murders by the pirates of Grand Tower and Cottonwood Creek; captivity in the wilderness and cave, and pro- tracted sufferings in the most agonizing forms incident to humanity. There is no record of these wild narratives, which could have been preser\-ed for future times, had there been an historian, who, by the embalming power of genius, would have preserved them in an imper- ishable shape for posterity. Both of these taverns stood upon the corners of Main and Locust streets. " The principal merchants and traders, at the time of the cession to the United States, were Auguste Chouteau, who resided in Alain street, between Market and Walnut; Pierre Chouteau, who resided on the corner of Main street and Washington avenue, and had the whole square encircled with a stone wall — he had an orchard of choice fruit, and his house and store were in one building — the store being the first story, and the family residence the second; Manuel Lisa lived on Second street, corner of Spruce; Labbadie & Sarpv; Roubidou lived at the corner of Elm and Main, and Jaques Clamorgan corner of Green and Main. The Debreuil family occu- pied a whole square on Second street, between Pine and Chestnut." THE FIRST The town of St. Louis was INCORPORATION. ^'''^^ incorporated on Novcm- ber 9, 180!*, in accordance with the provisions of an act passed the preced- ing year by the Legislature of the Territory of Louisiana. The boundaries as then defined cor- respond with present lines and names as follows: On the north a line from the river, between Biddle and Ashley streets, to the vicinity of Se\-euth and Carr, thence south to Seventh and Cerre streets, and thence east to the river. The population of the town on its budding into cor- porate existence was 1,400, and its wealth, ac- cording to the first assessment, was $13-4, 51(j. Auguste Chouteau was the heaviest tax-payer, his town assessment being $1."),000, independent of about S(;i,000 worth of real estate which was sitiuited beyond the limits of the little town, but which is now in the heart of the great city. There had been a great deal of land speculation prior to this, and values had gone up e\-ery time the tide of immigration gained strength and im- petus. There were a few other wealthy men in the city, as wealth went" in those days, includ- ing J. B. C. Lucas, John O'F'allon, William Clark, W^illiam Christy and Henry \'on Phul. After its incorporation the town of St. Louis began to grow rapidly, and in the year 1822, when it was advanced to the rank and dignity of a city, its population was 5,000. The boun- daries were extended in December of that year as far north as Ashley street and as far soutli as Labbadie and Convent streets, the western line being on Broadway, between Ashley and Biddle streets, and on Seventh, between Biddle and Lab- badie streets. The area of the town was thus increased to 385 acres, on which there were to be found about (i'>0 houses, 419 of which were frame. The taxable property had not yet reached a million dollars, and the annual income from taxation was a trifle less than $4,000. Several additions were platted out during the '30s, including the Lucas addition, between Seventh and Ninth and Market and St. Charles streets; the Soulard addition, between tlie ri\-er and Carondelet avenue and Park and Geyer ave- nues; O'Fallon's li^'M^ addition, between Sev- OLD ST. LOUIS. 11 enth and Eighth streets and Wash street and Franklin avenue; Langham's addition, between LaSalle and Rutger streets and Second and Fifth streets; Christy's addition, between Ninth and Twelfth streets and Franklin and Lucas avenues; O'Fallon's 1837 addition, between Seventh and Fourteenth streets and Franklin avenue and Biddle street; and Soulard's second addition, be- tween Carondelet avenue and Decatur street and Park and Geyer avenues, including a reserved square, subsequently the site of the Soulard Market. In 1839 the city limits were again extended. In the meantime the population had increased rapidly and was now 1(),000, with taxable prop- erty assessed at §8,682,000. In 1841 the limits were again increased, this time to take in a to- tal area of 2,(i30 acres and to increase the tax- able property to twelve millions. Additions were laid out in large numbers during the next fifteen years, including William C. Carr's third addition from Eighteenth street to Jefferson avenue, between Franklin avenue and Biddle street. The conditions of the dedication of this addition were unique. It was declared that there "shall be no butchery, tallow chandlery, soap factory, steam factory, tannery, nine-pin alley, or any other offensive business or occupa- tion, set up or carried on in any part of said ad- dition, whereby the dwellers or any lot-owners, proprietors or occupants may be in any way an- noyed or disturbed." Nine-pin alleys appear to have been a special menace to peace and quietness half a century ago, for the dedication of several other additions contain specific ref- erences to and restrictions against them. In December, 18;")."), the city limits were again extended, and most of the additions of the last ten or twelve j'ears were taken in. The south- ern boundary was extended to Keokuk street, and a line ()()0 feet west and north of Grand ave- nue became the western and northern limits. The area of the city was increased to seventeen square miles, and the assessed valuation to $.59,(509,289. The town of Bremen, incorporated in 184."), and the town of Highland, incorporated three years later, were absorbed bv the exten- sion. The former has preserved its name and individuality to this day, but the latter is known only to history and the proverbial " oldest in- habitant." It included the five squares between Jefferson and Leffingwell avenues, from Laclede avenue to Eugenia street. Among the numer- ous subdivisions which became portions of the city in 1855, the Stoddard and Compton Hill additions are the only two which have preserved their identity to any extent, or whose names are familiar to any except title examiners and realty agents. After another interval of fifteen years, in April, 1870, the limits were again extended, and Carondelet became a portion of St. Louis. Our southern neighbor, which at one time had been looked upon as a possible rival, had not been able to keep up with us, though it had grown into a prosperous little city, first incorpo- rated in 1833, and advanced to city rank eighteen years later. In 1872 the limits were extended north and west so as to include Tower Grove, Forest and O' Fallon Parks, but in 1874 the Legislature repealed the act and restored the limits of 1870. On August 22, IS 71!, the scheme and charter was adopted, and the city of St. Louis was sep- arated from the county, it being thus made a free city in local government; an advantage possessed by no other city in the Mississippi Valley.* The area was increased to sixty-two and one-fourth square miles, and the assessed value of real estate to $181,345,5(50. The new territory made part of St. Louis included the towns of Lowell, incorporated in 1849; Rock Springs (18.")2), Cheltenham (1852), Quinette (1859), Mount Olive (18.54), and Cote Bril- liaute (1853), as well as McRee City, Fair- mount, Rose Hill, Evans Place and College Hill additions. Some of these towns and ad- ditions still retain their names, while others have completely lost their identity, and become entirely merged into the general street nomen- clature. Every one has heard of, and may have *As far as the writer has been able to ascertain, there is but one other town in the United States which is prac- tically a county as well as a city. 12 OLD AXn NFAV ST. I.Ol'IS. EARLY Fl.\A\ClAL DIFFICULTIES. smelt, Lowell, but comparatively few could lo- cate Ouinette or McRee City. Twenty years hence, few, if any, of these distincti\e names will exist in anything but a pleasant memory. St. Louis kept pace with its increase in territory. A post-office was established soon after the Louisiana purchase, and Rufus Easton, a lawyer and title examiner, was the first postmaster. In July, 1.''l dwelling houses in St. Louis; of these, i'M were of brick and stone and 41!l were of wood, and rather more than half the structures were in the northern portion of the town. In addition to the dwelling houses, there were, to use the words of the directory, " a number of brick, stone and wooden ware- houses, stables, shops and outhouses." Among the buildings, the steamboat waiehouse, built by ^Ir. Josiah Bright, is described as a large brick building, which would do credit to any of the Eastern cities. ^leutiou is made of " the Cathedral," which, when the directory was compiled, was forty feet high, with a frontage of forty feet and a depth of one hundred and thirty-five, and also of the elegant and valuable library of Bishop Du Bourg. The St. Louis College, we are told, had sixty- fi\-e students and several teachers. As to the other educational and mercantile establishments, the following extract from the directon,- tells the story concisely and with e\-ident accuracy. " St. Louis likewise con- tains ten common schools, a brick Baptist church, forty feet by sixt\-, built in 1818, and an Episcopal church, of wood. The ^lethodist congregation hold their meetings in the old court house and the Presbyterians in the circuit court-room. In St. Louis are the following mercantile, profes- sional, mechanical, etc., establishments, viz.: Forty-.six mercantile establishments, which carry on an extensive trade with the most distant parts of the Republic in merchandise, produce, furs and peltry; three auctioneers, who do consider- able business — each pays $200 per annum to .4 PEN PICTURE IS 1821. OLD ST. LOUIS. V: the State for a license to sell, and on all personal property sold is a State dnty of tliree per cent, on real estate one and a half per cent and their commission of five per cent; three weekly newspapers, viz., the Si. Loitis Inquirer, Missouri Gazette and St. Louis Register., and as many printing offices; one book store; two binderies; three large inns, to- gether with a number of smaller taverns and boarding-houses; six livery stables; fifty-seven grocers and bottlers; twenty-seven attorneys and counsellors-at-law; thirteen physicians; three druggists and apothecaries; three midwives; one portrait painter, who would do credit to any country; five clock and watchmakers, silver- smiths and jewelers; one silver plater; one en- graver; one brewery, where are manufactured beer, ale and porter of a quality equal to any in the Western countrj^; one tannery; three soap and candle factories; two brickyards; three stonecutters; fourteen bricklayers and plasterers; twenty-eight carpenters; nine blacksmiths; three gunsmiths; two copper and tinware manufac- turers; six cabinetmakers; four coachmakers and wheelwrights; three saddle and harness manufacturers; seven turners and chairmakers; three hatters; twelve tailors; thirteen boot and shoe manufacturers; ten ornamental house and sign painters and glaziers; one nail factors-; four hair-dressers and perfumers; two confec- tioners and cordial distillers; four coopers, block, pump and mastmakers; four bakers; one comb factory; one bellman; five billiard tables, which pay an annual tax of $100 each to the State and the same sum to the corporation; several liacks or pleasure carriages and a considerable number of drays and carts; several professional musicians, who plas' at the balls, which are very frequent and well attended by the inhabitants, more particularly the French, who, in general, are remarkably graceful performers and much attached to so rational, healthy and improving an amusement; two potteries are within a few miles, and there are several promising gardens in and near to the town." A great deal more information of a valuable character is given. Thus, we are told that eight streets ran parallel with the river, inter- sected by twenty-three streets running east and west. The streets in the lower part of the town were narrow, varying from thirty-two to thirty- eight and one-half feet in width, but the streets on "the hill" were much wider and more hand- some. On the- hill in the center of the town was a public .square 240x^^00 feet, reserved for a court-house. Mention is made of two fire en- gines, with properly organized companies, one in the northern and the other in the southern portion of the city, in addition to which ever>' dwelling and store had to be provided with good leather fire buckets. Much space is de- voted to the Missouri Fur Company, whose cap- ital was ''supposed" at the time to amount to about $70,000, the company having in its em- ploy twenty-five clerks and interpreters, and seventy laboring men. The Indian trade of the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers amounted to about $(500,000 a year; and the estimated im- ports of the town to about $2,000,000. The commerce by water was carried in by steam- boats, barges and keel boats, and the principal articles of trade were fur, peltry, lead and agri- cultural products. Two miles above town, at North St. Louis, there was a .steam saw-mill, with several common mills on neighboring streams. "The roads leading from St. Louis," the director}' notice continues, "are very good, and it is expected that the great national turn- pike leading from Washington will strike this place, as the Commissioners of the United States have reported in favor of it." The population of the town was estimated at 5, .500 by the compiler of the director^', and the alphabetical list of householders contains about 800 names. It is interesting to note the first name on the list is "Abel, Sarah, seamstress. North Fourth, above C," and the last "Young, Benjamin, baker and grocer, 81 South Main street." The salarj' of the first mayor of St. Louis, Mr. William Carr THE CITY'S FIRST MAYOR. Lane, was fixed at $300 per annum, but he applied himself most zealously to the city's interest; and among the first acts 14 OLD AND NEW ST. LOCIS. of his administration were the division of the city into wards, the straightening and more ac- curate defining of the streets, the appointment of assessors and health officers, and the grad- ing and partial paving of Main street. In 1826 an ordinance was passed authorizing the building of a court-house, and in the follow- ing year work was commenced on the arsenal. A forward step was taken in the direction of city improvements by the systematic naming of the streets. At first, all the streets of St. Louis bore French names. Main street, from Almond to Morgan, was "La Rue Principale," and Second street was "La Rue de TEglise," or Church street, so called because of the first church of the city being built upon it. These French names had continued until 1'an Mullanphy was impeached for oppression; July 3, the steamer Edna blew up and killed fifty- five persons; General Atkinson died at Jefferson Barracks, all in the year 1842. The Medical Society riots occurred February 25, 1814r; the volunteer firemen's riot occurred July 29, 1849; the first of the Know-nothing riots April 5, 1852; a more serious Know-nothing riot August 7, 1854, in which ten persons were killed and thirty wounded, and the great rail- road riots in 1877. The "June rise" of 1844 eclipsed all previous high-water records, the crest being reached June 24, with the flood seven feet and seven inches above the city directrix. Steamboats landed at Second street and plied to the bluffs in Illinois. Over 500 people were rendered homeless. The city directrix was not reached in the abatement until July 14. October 15, 1849, a mass convention was held at the court house to reconsider the building of a railroad to the Far West, which bore fruit, for on July 4, 1851, ground was broken in the prac- tical commencement of the Pacific Railroad, the humble forerunner of the grand system of rail- roads now west of the Mississippi river. Thomas Allen was president of the first company. Washington University was chartered in 1853 under the name of Eliot Seminary, which was, a year later, changed to Washington Institute. Smith Academy was added in 185(), and the University formally inaugurated April 22, 1857. The Law School was added in 18(iO, and the Manual Training School in 1880. The old Liudell Hotel, on the site of the pres- ent hostelry, was commenced in 1857, and when completed, represented to the people of the country the astounding spectacle of a hotel be- yond the Mississippi surpassing in magnitude any other in the United States. It was de- stroyed by fire in 1867, rebuilt and opened for business in 1874. The first street car corporation in St. Louis was the Missouri Railroad Company, and the first car was driven by the president of the com- pany, Hon. Erastus Wells, on July 4, 1859, who lived to see the development of the finest sys- 20 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. tem of local transportation of j)assengers in the world. In l'S74 the Union depot was established and the Eads bridge opened for traffic. The Union depot has ontli\-ed its usefulness, but the bridge remains an honor to the city and to the man who designed it. In 1876 the scheme and charter was adopted, and St. Louis became an independent city with- out either county government or taxation. In 1878 the first Veiled Prophet's pageant was seen in the city, and crude attempts were made to illuminate the city. The Mercantile and Commercial clubs were both organized in 1881. In 1882 the Cotton Exchange building was opened ; work was commenced on the Exposi- tion building, and the first extensive illumina- tions were seen. In 1882 the agitation in favor of granite pav- ing on the down-town streets was commenced and took definite shape. In 1883 find 1884 the Exposition building was constructed, and the first Exposition was held in the months of September and October of the latter year. In 1884 work was commenced with a view to securing legislation for a rapid transit street railroad in St. Louis, and Old St. Louis ceased to have any practical existence. CHAPTER. II. NEW ST. LOUIS. SOME OF THE INFLUENCES WHICH BROUGHT ABOUT THE CITY'S SECOND BIRTH.— A SUC- CESSION OF TRIUMPHS. WELL-KNOWN character in fiction is represented as expressing doubts as to her birth, and as hazarding an opin- ion that she was never born at all, but just "growed." So it is to a great extent with New St. Louis. We know to a day when Old St. Louis was born ; we know how year after year it grew and flourished, and we know how and when it fulfilled and surpassed early expectations of greatness. But just when New St. Louis commenced its existence cannot be determined by a reference to the calendar or a quotation from it. Old St. Louis is a thing of the j^ast. The city in its magnificent maturity has "put away childish things" and ranks high among the foremost cities of the world. Its new Union Station is the grandest, largest railway passenger depot in the world, with track facilities and connec- tions which are at once a marvel of intricacy and simplicity ; the largest city on the largest ri\er in the world, St. Louis has also unsur- passed railroad connections, with lines stretch- ing out in every direction and running through every State in the Union ; its manufacturing and commercial establishments are numerous and gigantic, and its manufacturing output is in- creasing more rapidly than that of any other city in the world. The little narrow thoroughfares of our grandparents have given place to some of the best paved and lighted streets in America. The street railway system of St. Louis has be- come the best in the countr)-, and a veritable model even in these days of rapid transit and electric locomotion. Panics come and go, but the banks of St. Louis weather the storm with the ease of lifeboats, and emerge from it unin- jured either in finance or reputation. The parks NEW ST. LOUIS. 21 of St. Louis are exquisite oases of beauty aud verdure in the midst of a profusiou of commer- cial palaces aud delightful homes, aud New St. lyouis is iu a huudred other ways a model city, not perfect of course, but rapidly advancing to- wards the ideal of municipal excellence. But this does not settle the question of the date of the birth of New St. Louis, always as- suming that it was born and did not mysteriously gi'ow. The preceding chapter contains a rough outline of events from the founding of the town to the establishment of the city on an entirely independent basis by the adoption of the scheme and charter, and it may be asked — does not New vSt. Louis date from the severance of the city from the county? Did not Old St. Louis come into existence in 17(i4and pass out of it in 1876? The answer to both questions is " No." The difference between Old and New St. Louis is far greater than a mere matter of years. It is something infinitely more important than a ques- tion of area and boundaries. It involves some- thing much more tangible than a mere increase in material wealth and influence. Old St. Louis clung to the traditions of the past long after it had become one of the largest cities of the Union. It followed where it ought to have led. It scented danger in every new project, and devoted too little energy to measures of aggressive ad- vance. It ignored the rivalry of smaller cities, and allowed them to encroach upon its territory right up to its very gates, and it adopted a pol- icy of ultra-conservatism with a motto, implied if not expressed, that what had made the city great would keep it so for all time and against all comers. In a word it stood still, resting upon its own strength, ignoring the changes which modern invention and enterprise were making around, and ridiculing the idea of a serious devi- ation from the old established lines. The com- mercial interests of the city were mostly in the hands of men of mature years, many of whom had come W.est and grown up with the country, before Horace Greeley had commenced to phi- losophize. Some of these veterans heralded the New St. Louis idea with delight, and gave it the support THE SENTIMENT IN 1878. and assistance of advice based upon half a cent- iiry of hard work. But others, inchiding some whose yeoman service certainly entitled them to rest and retirement, looked less favorably on the necessary rush and hurry of these latter days, in which every man who hopes to suc- ceed must do at least the work of two men. They were literally astounded at the progress St. Louis had made during their sojourn in it, and instead of regarding that progress as evidence of unlimited possibilities, they were inclined to regard it as a magnificent achieve- ment — as a battle valiantly fought and perma- nently won. This feeling of finality, if the word may be used, was well expressed by a local writer in 1878: "Are St. Louis business men unprogressive? Some of our contemporaries out West are disposed to 'poke fun' at St. Louis because of the apparently unprogressive and unenterprising character of those who are rulers in her marts of trade and banks. Well, per- haps it is a truth that St. Louis is provokingly slow, l)ut it would be well to remember that St. Louis is exceedingly sure, that she does not act for to-day only, but for all time. The truth is St. Louis is a very solid city; that the actual financial condition of her business men is a little too good for a very aggressive campaign for traffic. We do not say that the city is in danger of permanent injury from the prosperous condi- tion of her citizens engaged in the business of merchandising, manufacturing, banking, build- ing and other industries. St. Louis is a con- servative city, that we readily admit; but the conservatism of our citizens does not lead them to neglect the great interests which center here, and which have thus far led to a great and sulv stantial development. It is true, and we readily admit it, that the rather ultra-conservatism which prevails here sometimes delays the con- summation of designs necessary to the contin- ued prosperity of the city, and, to the extent of such delays, retards and injures its commerce. But the good people of St. Louis are neither blind nor destitute of ordinary intelligence. 22 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. They know their interests, and will be very cer- tain to guard them with jealous care." "Guarding with jealous care" is good, but it does not build up a city, nor is it either logical or progressive to speak of "the actual financial condition of business men" as "a little too good for a very aggressive campaign for traffic." Eternal vigilance is the price of a great many blessings besides liberty. A city can never be sta- tionary in anything but location; in commerce, finance and influence it must either gain or lose — it must either achieve victories, or it must be content to suffer losses. Thus it was with Old St. Louis in the zenith of its glory. It ceased to be aggressive, and it lost ground. The cen- sus returns of 1880, the last it ever saw, were disappointing in the extreme, and the gains made by apparently insignificant rivals caused a general awaking to the fact that what the city had fought to obtain, it must fight to retain. "Poor old Missouri!" "Poor old St. Louis!" became every-day expressions, and an impres- sion gained ground that St. Louis had seen its best days, that it was a great river town, but not in the race in the days of railroads, and that the western metropolis would not be on the western bank of the IMississippi, in the almost exact center of the great valley to which the Father of Waters gave its name. New St. Louis is entirely different. Young, untiring men have assumed control of the city in every department, and where there was leth- argy and content, there is now ceaseless energy and laudable ambition. People no longer say, "Good enough for St. Louis;" nothing is good enough which is not the very best. St. Louisans no longer hesitate when a new project of gigan- tic proportions is suggested; they are ready, to adopt a simile only partly applicable, to step in where angels fear to tread. In other words, the city leads where it iised to follow; it insists where it used to yield; it frightens those it xised to fear. The change from the old regime to the new was in a measure gradual, and in a measure sudden. It did not take place when the Eads bridge was opened, nor was the extension of the THE FIGHT FOR RAPID TRANSIT. city limits and the adoption of the scheme and charter celebrated by a ringing out of the old and a ringing in of the new. The last three or four years of the seventies belong distinctly to the Old St. Louis period, and we must look to the eighties for the day and hour of the birth of New St. Louis. And even here it is a case of doctors differing. According to one theory the death-knell to Old St. Louis was sounded when the ground was broken for the first rapid transit road in thecity, the old Locust street cable, which in its twists and turns used to throw the passen- gers around with as little mercy as baggage hand- lers usually extend toward trunks and valises. Truly, the fight for a franchise was picturesque and emblematical. On the one side was the de- mand for rapid transit, with the unanswerable argument that time is money, and that there was no reason for St. Louis being content with mules and horses for street car traction, when smaller cities were building cable lines rapidly. The New St. Louis idea was well brought out, and there was a great deal of severe talk about old-fogyism, vested interests, Westinghonse air- brakes on progress, and the like. As to the Old St. Louis theory, it was liter- ally ridden to death. A good lawyer has been described as an advocate who knows when to stop; but the opponents to rapid transit helped on the good work of reform and progress by comibal descents from the sublime to the ridiculous, and by riding their hobby to death. The street car powers that were naturally opposed the pro- ject because of its dangerous rivalry, and they succeeded in getting the ordinance so amended as to force upon the promoters what was described as "an impossible route." That is to say, they multiplied the curves and difficulties to such an extent that competent engineers expressed de- cided opinions to the effect that the road could never be operated even if built. This was fair fighting, but it was accompanied by consider- able hitting below the belt. Worshipers of the old idea screamed with horror. Horses would be frightened, wheels would sink into the cable NEW ST. LOUIS. 23 slot, children and even adults would be crushed out of existence by the threatened Juggernaut, and streets would be rendered absolutely impass- able. These arguments were raised, not once or twice, but dozens of times, both before the com- mittees of the City Council and House of Dele- gates, and in the columns of the newspapers. It was a cry of flee from the cars to come, and there was no dearth of prophets to foretell dire disaster as the immediate and certain effect of the proposed profanation of the streets. Nor was this all. The old story of the man who objected to gas because his father had li\-ed and prospered with no brighter illuminant than a rush-light, was retold in a new form and with- out the narrators noticing the humor of their argument. St. Louis, they said, had grown into a great city without rapid transit, and what had sufficed in the past would do in the future. It, or rather they, did not need any innovations, and the city's reputation for substantial solidity would be jeopardized by the change. People did not live far enough from their places of busi- ness to make rapid transit necessary, it was urged, the theorists calmly oblivious of the fact that they were mixing up cause and effect, and that the reason people lived in crowded homes was because the most attractive and healthy por- tions of the city were inaccessible to all but the favored few who could afford to keep carriages and horses. Public opinion was divided to a remarkable extent, but common sense finally triumphed, the necessary powers were granted and the road was built. This was in the years 1884, 1885 and 188(), and, we are inclined to think, a little after the birth of New St. Louis. There was a pitched battle between the old and the new, and both forces organized with sufficient thorono-hness to indicate the existence of the new idea which was gaining strength, as well as the old idea which was d)ing so painfully and so hard. Again, as evidence of the fact that the grand awakening took place prior to the building of the first rapid transit road, the erection of the Exposition THE VEILED PROPHET'S INFLUENCE. Building and the inauguration of autumnal illuminations may be recorded. That the Old St. Louis idea is not interred, although it is long past medical aid, is proved by the fact that there are still people to be found who doubt the good influence of hospitality, and who cry cni bono? every time St. Louis lays itself out to attract and entertain. But these are in a hope- less minority, for on every hand the opinion prevails that if the Veiled Prophet is not the actual creator of New St. Louis, he was present at the birth and assisted materially in bringing it about. It was the Prophet who taught the people of St. Louis to appreciate the beauties and resources of their own city, and it was the Prophet and his followers who downed cry after cry of the Old St. Louis order. And if it was not the Prophet who suggested the building of a home for a permanent exposi- tion, who was it? In the years 1883 and 1884, the suggestions took material shape, and it is probable that this event, more than any other, marked the change from the old to the new. The raising of the necessary funds to construct the building, and the general rallying around the standard, roused St. Louisans out of them- selves and had an educational influence, the value of which it would be difficult, if indeed it were possible, to overrate. The change was not by any means completed while the work was in progress, because the air was full of prophesies of failure. No city had ever suc- ceeded in making an annual exposition self- sustaining, and was it likely "poor Old St. Louis could"? It was not at all likely; but it was possible for New St. Louis to do what has since been so forcibly demonstrated. The mill- ions of people who have come from east, west, north and south to see the Exposition, the illu- minations and the other fall attractions, have carried back to their homes enthusiastic state- ments as to the grandeur of the city, and have concluded description after description with the qualification that the half had not been told. In a search for the causes which led to an ig- noring of the 2:>ast and a determination to plan and construct a new future, it would be niani- 24 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. THE COMMERCIAL CLUB AND QRANITE STREETS. festly unjust to overlook the influence of two of tlie great clubs of St. Louis — the Mercantile and the Commercial. The Mercantile Club was established three or four years before the Expo- sition, and it has been the birthplace of nearly every important project which has since seen the light. The meeting at which it was proposed to construct an exposition building was held in the old building on Locust street, and many other projects of untold value to the city were plotted and schemed in one or the other of the rooms of the same building. It was almost an act of vandalism to tear down a club house which had so many pleasing and profitable memories; but it was erected in the reign of Old St. Louis, and was not in keeping with New St. Louis, either in capacity or elegance. The Commercial Club differs from the Mercantile in one essential point. It is a debating society rather than a social club, and it also performs many of the duties which fall to the lot of boards of trade in smaller cities. Since the formation of the Autumnal Festivities Association, with its numerous committees, the Commercial Club has been less heard of than formerly. But in its earlier days it was an immense power for good, and its influence on improvements of the better kind has always been marked. Indeed, it com- petes with the rapid transit movement and the Veiled Prophet for the right to claim New St. Louis as its own particular offspring. The club was established in the year 1881, and its forma- tion proved to no inconsiderable extent the ex- istence of a spirit of dissatisfaction with the existing condition of affairs and a determination to strike out in fresh lines and pastures new. In March, 1882, Mr. George E. Leighton read a paper before the club in which he spoke strongly on the importance of an improvement in the streets and of better paving. The arguments were heartily appreciated, and if the paper did not result in the immediate repavingof the bus- iness streets, it at least opened the eyes of the public to the paramount importance of the work, whioiiwas commenced soon after its reading. Again, the Old St. Louis ultra-conservatism was manifested; and the reform was fought bit- terly. At that time, and, indeed, up to the year 1893, the cost of street reconstruction was- charged against the property fronting on it, with a limit of charge fixed at one-fourth the assessed valuation, any excess being paid out of the municipal revenues. There is no limit now,* but even with the advantage f^iven property owners under the old law, they protested bit- terly, and the board room of the Board of Public Improvements, as well as the committee rooms of the two branches of the Municipal Assembly, and even the mayor's ofiice itself, heard arguments which echoed in sentiment and purpose the still prevailing conservatism. But the pavements which were good enough for Old St. Louis were not suitable in any re- spect for New St. Louis, and common sense won again. As the business streets were paved with granite, so did the standing of the city improve. History shows that, almost invari- ably, good roads and civilization have gone hand in hand; and the. moral and commercial influence of good streets in St. Louis has been astounding. Whether the new era was the re- sult of their being constructed, or whether their construction was an incident to the new era, this deponent sayeth not. In the same line of thought it is difficult to distinguish cause and effect in regard to the phenomenal increase in the extent and, im- portance of the city's manufnctures. Certain it is that coincident with the commencement of work on the granite streets and with the build- ing of Exposition Hall, the manufacturing inter- est had an awakening far too solid and lasting to be looked upon or spoken of as a " boom. ' ' Ne \v factories and ofSce-buildings began to be erected, old ones were remodeled and enlarged, and " angels of commerce " were sent out to do mis- sionary work in fields never before invaded by St. Louis houses. As rapid transit opened up new territory for homes, this good work con- *The validity of the Stone Law, abolishing the 25 per cent limit, was being tried in the courts when this woik went to press. NEW ST. LOUIS. 25 TWO OUTSIDE OPINIONS ON THE tinned, and New St. Louis is to-day one of the most important manufacturing and distributing points in the world, leading in many lines and a good second in many more. So it will be seen that four distinct iufiuences combined to bring New St. Louis into existence about ten years ago. Fortunately, there was an abundance of youthful talent and energy to 2)iIot the old into the new and to take advantage of opportunities as they arose; and, hence, we have to-day a city old only in its history, its solidity and integrit}-, and new in every other feature — in its buildings, its streets, its manu- factures, its commerce and its people. Julian Ralph, who is perhaps the best authoritv of the dec- CITVS NEW GROWTH. , . a d e on American cities, owing to the nature and extent of the special correspondence tours he has undertaken, has this to say of the transition or " new growth" of St. Louis: " St. Louis is the one large western city in which a man from our eastern cities would feel at once at home. It seems to require no more explanation than Boston would to a New Yorker or Baltimore to a Bostonian. It speaks for itself in a familiar language of street scenes, arch- itecture, and the faces and manners of the peo- ple. In saying this I make no comparison that is unfavorable to the other western cities, for it is not unfriendly to say that their most striking characteristic is their newness, or that this is lacking in St. Louis. And yet to-day St. Louis is new-born, and her appearance of age and of similarity to the eastern cities belies her. She is not in the least what she looks. Ten or a dozen years ago there began the operation of influences which were to rejuvenate her, to fill her old veins with new blood, to give her the momentum of the most vigorous western enter- prise. Six or seven years ago these began to bear fruit, and the new metropolitan spirit com- menced to throb in the veins of the old city. The change is not like the awakening of Rip Van Winkle, for the city never slept; it is rather the repetition of the case of that boy-god of mythology, whose slender form grew sturdy when his brother was born. It was the new life around the old that spurred it to sudden growth. ' ' ( Harper's A'c^u Monthly^ November, 1892.) A year later the Springfield Democrat., com- menting editorially on a large real estate trans- action, said: " St. Louis has never in any sense been a 'boom' town, but there is not to-day a city in the country in better repute as a solid, progressive, financial, commercial and manufact- uring center, nor one which is making as rapid jDrogress in expansion of trade, in architectural supremacy, or in increase of population. To within fifteen years ago it was regarded as an ultra-conservative town that compromised its fu- ture by the rejection of adventitious aids that were seized upon by its windy competitor by the lakes, and was the target of jibes and standing comparisons that were a dead-weight when the present generation took the helm and overthrew tradition by the utilization of every legitimate opportunity that gave the promise of a better- ment. ' ' The New St. Louis is an object lesson for the careful, and, possibly, profitable, considera- tion of other communities with greater or less aspirations. It has demonstrated that while conservatism is advantageous as breakwater, it is a positive injury as dam to enterprise, and that the maxim, ' nothing venture, nothing gain,' has its application in the building of cities as in tlie determination of the fortunes of indi- viduals." It was a favorite boast of the old regime that "St. Louis owns herself. ' ' In other words, the people gloried in the fact that local enterprises were supported exclusively by local capital. This fallacy has long since been exploded, and there is a realiza- tion of the fact that the more outside capital that is attracted to the city, the greater the ad- vantage to its mercantile and manufacturing in- terests. Since the civilized world has begun to appreciate the fact that New St. Louis is one of its most progressive and prosperous cities, FOREIGN CAPITAL AND ITS INFLUENCE. 26 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. millions of outside capital have been attracted to it, and many of the most magnificent of the new buildings have been erected largely or in great part by eastern and even English money. The days of Chinese walls are over, and the city which earns for itself the confidence of the in- ternational financial world is the one that makes the most pronounced and prolonged improve- ment. Charity may begin at home, but it does not end there; and while the investment of local capital and accumulation is the first stepping- stone to municipal growth, the attraction of foreign capital for investment is indispensable in these days of competition and encroachment. Hence, while Old St. Louis was hampered by an excess of exclusiveness and an undue tendency to look with suspicion upon new enterprises from the outside. New St. Louis has sprung to the front and kept there, largely because it has attracted the attention, if not the envy, of the financial and mercantile world of two continents, and because of the impetus investment from the outside has given to almost every one of its in- dustries. When English gold was paid for a number of the breweries of which St. Louis had long been proud, there was considerable heartache in con- sequence. But the breweries remain where they were. They pay as large if not larger sums every week to St. Louis men to be spent at St. Louis stores, and for all practical purjioses the city derives as much benefit from the industry as ever. True, the idea of the profits crossing the ocean in the shape of dividend warrants is the reverse of pleasant, but the local investment of the foreign purchase-money proved so advan- tageous in every way, and gave such an impe- tus to local building, that a great many dividends will have to be paid before St. Louis will lose one tithe of what it gained. And although there are not wanting those who regret the plac- ing of municipal bonds in London during the current 3'ear, there are hundreds more who re- joice in the evidence furnished of the city's ex- cellent credit abroad, and who also recognize the fact that had the bonds been subscribed for locally, just so much money must have been withdrawn from the home loaning capital, to the probable curtailment of local enterprise and business. In short, it is not an iinmixed bless- ing for a city to own itself, and the recognition of this fact has proved of incalculable benefit to New St. Louis in its fight for commercial su- premacy — a fight which has been so overwhelm- ingly successful, and which is still being waged so gloriously and so well. The preceding chapter closed with a brief chronological summary of events in Old St. Louis. This chapter cannot close more appro- priately than with the record of some of the "footprints in the sands of time" madebv New St. Louis. Each footprint marks a stride to- wards improvement and perfection; a casting aside of things that were, and a pressing for- ward to things that are to be. Reference is only made to distinct and absolute reforms, or movements in the direction of reform. 188L Commercial and Mercantile clubs established. 1882. Agitation for granite streets commenced. First extensive street illumination. 1883. Exposition and IMusic Hall Association incor- porated. Active work commenced on repaving down- town streets with granite. 1884. First franchise granted for rapid transit (Ca- ble and Western). Opening of Exposition Building, and first an- nual Exposition. 188.5. Ground l^rokeu for first lofty fire-proof offiae building. 1886. First cable road operated. Union Depot Company formed. General activity commenced in building asso- ciations. 1887. Streets first sprinkled by municipal contracts. Charter ol)tained for second bridge across the Mississippi at St. Louis. MANUFACTURES. 27 St. I^ouis made a central reserve city for national banks of other cities. 1888. Work commenced on new Water-works, ca- pacity 100, ()()(), OOO gallons daily. General movement inaugurated to build freight depots on this side of river for eastern roads. 1889. Merchants' Bridge constructed. First electric cars successfully operated. Largest electric arc light works in the world constructed. 1890. Merchants' Bridge opened for traffic. Foundation-stone of new City Hall laid. Streets and alleys lighted by electricity. 1891. First county electric road constructed. New Mercantile Club Building commenced. St. lyouis Trafhc Commission organized. Work commenced on new Union Station. Autumnal Festivities Association formed, and more than $500,000 subscribed. 1892. Work commenced on New Planters' House, $2,000,000 hotel. Sixteen million dollars appropriated by Con- gress for improvement of Mississippi river. First postal street railroad car run in the United States on a St. Louis electric railroad. New buildings erected with a total frontage of thirty-nine miles. Grand Columbian street illumination. Smoke Abatement Association formed. 1893. Electric street car system completed, and last horse car run down-town. Legislation against black and gray smoke, and first prosecutions under the ordinance. National financial uneasiness. No bank or other failures in St. Louis. City four per cent renewal bonds placed in London at par. Largest Union Railroad Station in the world jDractically completed. CHAPTER III. MANUFACTURES. A BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE IMMENSE IMPORTANCE OF THE MANUFACTURING INTERESTS OF NEW ST. LOUIS. JT HAS BEEN asserted by political econo- mists of every school, that production is the only actual and reliable source of wealth. Every nation that has attained eminence of a permanent character has done so by and with the aid of its manu- factures; and every country which has gained temporary precedence by any other means has found its glories transitory and its supremacy short-lived. Statesmen and philosophers have differed as to the best means of encouraging home industries, but while the word "protec- tion" has acquired a political meaning, and has become a party watch- word, every party in every country claims that its policy is designed to foster manufacturing in its own territory, and to encourage the production of commodities of every description at home. Especially is this the case in a comparatively new country like the United States. In the early struggles of colon- ists and exiles, every luxury — including in the term many articles which habit has made nee- '28' OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. essaries of every-day life — had to be imported from older countries, and the rise of the nation in wealth and influence has been the immediate and direct result of the increase in its manufact- ures which, although slow at times, has always been continuous. Adam Smith and Stuart Mill, and indeed all authorities on political economy, have proved that manufacturing and greatness go hand in hand, and although the majority of our statesmen during the last quarter of a century, have favored measures at variance in detail with the theories of these authorities, the policy has invariably been to expedite man- ufacturing supremacy. And as it is with nations, so is it with cities. The "boom" towns of the West, which built up in a day, fell by the wayside almost as rapidly, because the growth was not the result of legitimate de- mand, and because the local manufacturing in- dustry was not extensive enough to warrant or maintain the growth. The solid substantial cities of the East have, on the other hand, held their own because of the practical monopoly they have en- joyed in the production of commodities called for by the entire country. St. Louis owes its unique prosperity to the same cause — to the immense- ness of its manufactures and the rapid increase in the amount of capital invested, wages paid, and goods produced. The influences alluded to in the preceding chapter made the manufacturing greatness of the city possible, and the greatness in turn has guaranteed the city a glorious future. Up to the time when New St. Louis reared its head and asserted itself over Old St. Louis, very little encouragement was offered to outside capital or capitalists; and in a number of in- stances enterprises of great value were in conse- quence lost to the city. But as the manufactur- ing public found that a new order of things pre- vailed, immigration of the most advantageous character set in. Firms and corporations came from other cities and infused new life and energy into our institutions, encouraging a spirit of friendly rivalry and adding immensely to the capacity and output. St. Louis is pre-eminently the best adapted city on the continent for man- ufacturing. Situated a short distance west and south of the center of population, it offers ad- vantages in the way of distribution second to no other city, and its magnificent railroad and river connections enable these advantages to be made the most of. Raw material of every description is close at hand, and coal, the great source of mechanical power, is abundant and cheap. The southern Illinois coal fields yield an unlimited supply of excellent coal, which is delivered to factories at prices which excite the envy of man- xifacturers located elsewhere. The price varies according to the side-track facilities and the length of the haul, but contracts are now being executed at prices as low as $1.:20, and even less, 2)er ton. No other large manufacturing city can offer such inducements as this, and in most of them the cost of coal is at least twice as great. Only the manufacturer realizes what an impor- tant factor is the price of coal in his calculations, and the advantage which the cheap and good coal of St. Louis gives to the St. Louis producer over his competitors elsewhere. The output of the coal fields, which are so close to St. Louis that they are part and parcel of its manufacturing greatness, is enormous, amounting to thirty million tons annually. The receipts of coal at St. Louis for the last ten years, or since the city's awakening to the New St. Louis idea, are worth placing on record, because t!ie\' show what immense increase has been made in the consumption of the great power cre- ating article without which manufacturing can- not snccessfulh' be carried on. Hituminous Coal . Bushels. Anthracile Coal. Tons. Coke . Kushels. 1883 50,687,225 52, .349 UOO 53,387,064 61,258,525 66,.524,925 67,676,875 65,403,025 69,477,225 72,078,225 82,302,228 52,000 62,000 80,000 70,000 131,600 136,600 121,500 124,335 139,050 187,327 6,956,500 1884 3 190 150 1885 3,500,000 1886 5,463.950 1887 A.. 18SS 1889 9,584,350 6,757,5.50 8,646.200 1890 9,919 850 1891 6,924, 2.J0 1892 8,914,400 There are many other influences which have combined to force New St. Louis to the front in this all-important feature. These will be found MAN UFA C TURES. 29 enlarged upon in other portions of this work. It will suffice here to show briefly to what eminence St. Louis has already attained as a manufacturing city. St. Louis has (i,000 factories. It has the largest shot tower in America. It has the largest iron jail factory in the world. It has the largest stamping plant in the coun- tiy. It manufactures more tobacco than any other city. It manufactures more chairs than any other city. Its sugar refineries include the largest in the world. It has the largest cracker factory in the world. It is first in the production of stoves and ranges. It has the largest woodenware factory in America. It produces more boots and shoes than au)- other city. It has the largest and best equipped brewery in America. It easily leads in the manufacture of saddlery and harness. The value of the product of ISSK) was double that of 18.S(). It is the fifth largest manufacturing city in the United States. It has the largest terra cotta factory in the United States. Its factory employes earn an average of about $200,000 a day. It leads in the manufacture of street cars of every description. It has the largest boot and shoe factory xinder one roof in the Union. It is the only western cit}- manufacturing silverware to any extent. Its reclining chairs are in use in railroad cars in ten different countries. It is the third largest furniture manufacturing city in the United States. Its factories find employment for one-sixth of the city's total population. It manufactures more coffins and caskets than any other city in the world. It has recently executed the largest order for steam railroad cars ever placed. It has the largest jeans factory in the United States, and probably in the world. It manufactures one-fourth of the entire to- bacco product of the United States. It manufactured street cars which are in daily use in England, Australia and Japan. Its monthly manufactured product is sold for sufficient to pay off the entire city debt. It is the fourth largest producer of men's clothing, and leads in the higher grades. It has the largest press brick, fire brick and sewer pipe factories in the United States. It is first in the manufacture of white lead, with the largest white lead factory in the world. It has a tobacco factory which has paid more government tax than any other factory in the Union. It is the home of the largest electric arc light plant and the largest incandescent station in America. Its millers manufacture more flour than those of any other city in the world, with but one exception. It manufactured more of the glass used in the World's Fair buildings than any other three cities combined. Its manufactures are more extensive than those of Kansas City, Omaha, Denver and San Fran- cisco combined. Its annual manufactured product, on a cash valuation, is twelve times as great as the city's bonded indebtedness. Its manufactured product is equal in value to over $400 per annum per inhabitant, including men, women and children. It is the greatest distributing point for agri- cultural machinery, and ranks among the larg- est manufacturing cities in this specialty. Its factory employes are 25 per cent more numerous than when the census was taken in 1«;I0, as proved by the State Labor Commis- sioner's report, published early in the winter of 1893. 30 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. THE GAIN IN EASTERN CITIES DURING THE EIGHTIES. This list does not include ever}' indus- try or factory which is a record-breaker. It is rather typical than complete, and is given for the purpose of showing that when the state- ment is made that St. Louis is a manufacturing monarch, there is not even a suspicion of exag- geration. No other city in the world can claim such cosmopolitanism in its manufactures, and no other city can produce such a showing of excellence in such a vast number of varying lines and branches. Nor are the claims a mere matter of surmise. They are based upon actual facts and figures recorded in the census of ISiK) (Bulletin 170), and have hence the stamp of official confirmation. The progress made since the war has been both rapid and continuous. In 1860, St. Louis ranked ninth in the list of manufacturing cities. The returns for 1870 were so notoriously inaccurate that they are worthless for purposes of comparison; but the year 1880 found St. Louis in the sixth place, with an annual product of $104,000,000. It was still led by New York, Philadelphia, Brooklyn and Boston, in addition to which Chicago had risen to third place. Pittsburgh was entirely dis- tanced and Providence, Newark, Cincinnati and Baltimore were left far in the rear, St. Louis having made a growth of about 400 per cent for the twenty years as against their compara- tively small increases. Durins: the eio-hties the influence of New St. Louis made itself felt in a most decisive manner in its manufactures, and during the de- cade it made a greater increase than any of the great Eastern centers of manufacture. Thus the manufactured product doubled itself during the ten years, while the increase in New York was but fifty-six per cent, in Philadelphia seventy- two per cent, in Cincinnati sixty-seven per cent, and in Baltimore sixty-nine per cent. In the amount of capital invested a comparison is still more favorable to St. Louis, which made a gain of 180 per cent during the decade while the increase in New York, Philadelphia and Baltimore averaged 100 per cent, and the gain in Cincinnati was about seventy-seven per cent. These phenomenal gains easily placed St. Louis in the fifth place, Boston being overtaken in the race and only New York, Chicago, Philadelphia and Brooklyn left in front of New St. Louis in the race for manufacturing supremacy. Chicago still leads St. Louis in manufactures. It is not proposed in this work to go into details over the battle royal between the metropolis of the Northwest and the metropolis of the West and Southwest. The contest has been of so long duration and its discussion has become so tire- some in consequence of the almost innumerable charges and counter-charges made, that the sub- ject can profitably be ignored. The territory of each city is so different that there is ample room for both and while Chicago has derived immense advantage from the enormous growth of the new States in the Northwest, St. Louis has the benefit of the almost exclusive trade of the equally important and even more promising States of the West, Southwest and South. Omit- ting Chicago from the calculation, we find St. Louis by all odds the great manufacturing head of the West. The value if its product is almost twice as great as that of San Francisco, three times as large as that of Minneapolis, six times as large as that of Omaha, seven times as great as either vSt. Paul or Kansas City, eight times as large as Denver, twenty times as great as St. Joseph, and so much larger than that of any other Western manufacturing point as "to make calculations and comparisons impossible and percentage tedious. The value of the man- ufactured product of St. Louis is equal to the combined output of San Francisco, Denver, Omaha, Kansas City, St. Joseph and all other strictly Western cities. It is not desired to oc- cupy space with a multi- plicity of tables or com- ELEVENTH CENSUS. ^^^^^^^..^ but the census of 1890 being necessarily the basis upon which a treatise on the city's manufactures has to be based it is necessary to give a table showing the totals in the most important lines of industry. This is given on the following page: THE RECORD OF THE MANUFACTURES. 31 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES IN ST. LOUIS, CENSUS OF 1890. INDUSTRIES. No. of Establish- ments. Capital Employed. Value of Product. Agricultural Iiiipl'mts 4 $ 686,484 % 1,107,454 Bags, Paper 3 174,425 431,228 Bak'g and Yeast Powdr 14 3;3,181 403,77:i Blacksuiithing and Wheelwrighting 219 406,121 898,177 Bookbiuding aud Bl'iik Book Making 14 196 618 336,227 Boots and Shoes 24 4,170,0:i7 4,250,961 Bread aud other Bak- ery Products 291 1,244,167 3,597,392 Brick and Tile 38 2 53l,12cS 1,691,692 Carpentering 407 4,364 659 10,364,922 Carriages and Wagons 114 2,523,448 3,603,735 Cars (Railroad, Street and Repairs) . - 24 2 453 443 5,641,252 Chemicals 16 1,500,068 2,672,749 Clav and Pottery Pro- ducts 13 939,996 899,855 348 5,765,150 9,630,688 Coffee aud Spices, Roast'g and Grind'g 9 816,688 2,466,392 48 1 078 426 2,462,037 CooDerace 71 1,042,643 1,912,779 Flouring aud Grist 21 4 320 955 12,641,000 Foundry aud Machine Shop Products 103 10,184,926 11,945,493 Furniture, Upholster- 121 3 108,211 4,658,546 838 930 Glass 5 842 354 Iron and Steel 6 2,655,199 2,513,761 Irou Works, Architect- ural and Ornamental 23 1,732,748 2,023,526 Leather, Tanned and Curried 15 682,7.53 1,502,680 Liquors, Malt 8 15,910,417 16,18»,560 Lumber and other Mill Products aud Logs . / 2,766,012 1,689,832 Lumber, Planing Mill Products 23 1,860,036 3,061,178 Masonry, Brick aud Stoue 160 3 4,436,578 1.018,562 9,122,952 Oil, Linseed 1,438,201 Painting and Paper Hanging 331 867,194 2,841,041 14 3,498,107 3,163,818 Patent Medicines and Compounds 58 1,601,999 2,196,416 Plumbers' Materials ... 4 1,280,486 1,465,371 Plumb'g and Gasfit'g., 124 581,067 1,651,169 Print'g and Publish'g 213 5,192,065 8,551,349 Saddlery and Harness 110 2,160,963 2,803,961 Slaughtering and Meat Packing 60 3 274 671 12 047 316 10 806,301 1,203,406 Tin smithing. Copper smithing and Sheet Irou Working 132 1,1 32,. 588 2,369,540 Tobacco, Chewing, Smoking aud Snuff 12 3,894,320 14,354,165 Tobacco, Cigars and Cigarettes 296 787,520 1,558 401 All other Industries 2,632 3-5,915588 54,515,383 Total, 1890 6,148 5140,775,392 1228,714,317 Total, 1880 2,924 1 50,832,885 j!l 14,333,375 The exact percentage of increase in the vari- ous features is best ascertained by deducting several minor industries not inchided in the returns for 1880, which leaves the figures as follows: Number of establish- ments reported Number of hands em- ployed Capital invested Miscellaneous expenses.. Wages paid Cost of materials used Value at factory of goods manufactured 1890. 5.453 90,966 $133,292,699 17,381,274 62,170..536 120,887,355 225,500,657 1880. 2,924 41,825 $50,832,885 17,743. .532 75,379,867 114,333.375 Per cent of increase 86.49 117.49 162.22 194.03 60.37 97.23 The great reduction of i:)rices in almost every line accounts for the fact that although capital and wages show an increase of l(i2 and 194 per cent, the value of the product only increased 97 per cent. In actual weight and bulk the in- crease was far greater. The way in which St. Louis has gained on the largest eastern manufacturing cities during the last thirty years, is shown by the following comparisons of the value of annual product: New York . 18(i0 1890 Philadelphia . \ , j,(' 8«0 1890 Cincinnati Boston. Brooklyn Baltimore. . Pittsburgh. St. Louis . 18(50 1890 / 18(i0 \ 1890 [ 18(iO \ 1890 18(;0 18<)0 f 1860 \ 1890 18(J0 1890 $l(iO,000,000 770,000,000 135,000,000 577,000,000 47,000,000 196,000,000 37,000,000 210,000,000 34,000,000 269,000,000 29,000,000 141,000,000 26,000,000 126,000,000 27,000,000 228,000,000 In 1860 the seven large eastern cities manu- factured seventeen times as much as St. Louis; in 1890 St. Louis products equaled one-tenth the total for the seven cities combined. Since 1860 the manufacturing output of the 32 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. seven eastern cities has increased less than 500 percent; dnring the same period the increase in St. Lonis has been nearly one tliousand per cent. A glance at these figures shows how iniposible it is to exaggerate the greatness of the city in the important detail of manufactures. It will be observed that the percentage of increase in the number of establishments reported, the number of hands employed, the capital invested, the wages paid, the cost of material used, and the value of the product varied from sixty to nearly two hundred per cent, with an average of over l.')0 per cent. It will also be noted that the greatest increase was in wages paid, a fact which has a great deal to do with the popularity of St. Louis manufactures. St. Louis has always been noted for the high grade of workmanship its products display, and this is the result in large measure of the care exercised in its selec- tion of mechanics, and the inducements offered them over and above those held forth in other cities. The sweating system is practically un- known in St. Louis, which is also noted through- out the entire country for the excellence of its manufacturing plants and the modernness of its machiner}'. It would be interesting, if space permitted, to trace in detail the causes which have led to the center of American manufacturing lea\ing the Atlantic States, but this would hardly come within the province of an article of this char- acter. One great reason for the growth of man- ufactures of every kind is the marvelous increase in population and wealth of the district of which St. Louis is the commercial and financial me- tropolis. This will be found more fully enlarged upon in the chapter relating to St. Louis as a commercial metropolis and distributing point, and it need only be said here that rapid as has been the increase of the city's manufactures, it has continued to act as a distributing point for other manufacturing centers, and that in many lines its jobbers actually import more goods from other centers than in the days when our manufacturing output was comparatively insig- nificant. TWO WAYS OF ^^y^'^tevinthcNewEn^/and Alamzine in Tanuarv, 1892, LOOKING AT * . , , , speaking of the marvelous PLAIN FiaURES. , • i u c^ t • • showing made by St. Louis in the census returns which had just been made public, says, with a lingering remembrance of the Old St. Louis idea, and with evident danger of being classed as a town boomer or an extrav- agant writer: " I now come to speak of the great activity which absorbed the working strength and ener- gies of our people. The situation of St. Louis, at the junction or two great rivers and at the head of deep-water navigation, naturally sug- gests trade rather than manufacture, yet, even now, it is pre-eminently a manufacturing city. The reports of the tenth and eleventh censuses furnish figures which indicate in a most em- phatic manner the growth and tendency of the city in the direction of manufacture during the past ten years. I dare not quote those fig- ures here — they make a showing so extravagantly favorable as to suggest criticism. It is probable that the business statistics for 1880 and those for 18!K) were compiled in very different ways, and that comparison should be made with cau- tion." This rather reminds one of the story of the l)oy, who, coming home from school with a very favorable report of his year's work, handed it to his father with an apology for being at the head of his class, explaining that the remainder of the boys were inclined to be indifferent, and that it was doubtful whether the system of marking and awarding prizes was good enough to be accepted as final proof of the superiority of those at the top of the class, or the intellectual inferiority or indifference of those at the bottom. In striking contrast to this self-abnegation and pessimism is tlie explanation which Mr. Robert P. Porter, Superintendent of the Eleventh Ceu- sus, thought proper to add to the first informa- tion ever given out concerning the results of the industrial census of 1890. In an address before the Commercial Club, on November 21st, 1891, Mr. Porter went very fully into the returns, a synopsis of which he had brought with him MAN UFA C rURES. 33 from Washington, and concluded a thoron_ a car, and 2,211 cars of tile at $195 a car. The industry em- ploys 1,172 hands." The beer brewing indus- try of St. Louis ranks among the most important of its manufactures. The city is one of the first beer manufacturing cities in the world, and it boasts proudly of the largest brewery in the United States and the most magnificent brewery in the world. At the world's competition at Chicago, this year (1893), St. Louis beer won the high- est award, scoring more points than the products of any other city. This is an industry which has more than kept pace with the growth of the city, a fact which a perusal of the following extract from the Missouri Republican., of Sep- tember 20, 1854, clearly indicates: "St. Louis has about twenty-four breweries, and every one of them has stored nearly twice the quantity of ale, for this summer, that has been made in any preceding one. As we are informed by one of the largest dealers of this article, the quantity may safely be reckoned at forty thousand barrels of lager beer and, per- haps, twenty thousand barrels of common beer. By an average count, one barrel of about thirty gallons gives about three hundred glasses. Thus we have about twelve million glasses of lager beer and about six million glasses of com- mon beer. Common beer is sold at five dollars per barrel and lager beer at seven dollars, that is at wholesale. This will make the amount received by the brewers: for lager beer, $290^- 000, and for common, $100,000. The retailers, at five cents a glass, took in $600,000 for lager beer, and $300,000 for the common article. Just think of it, nearly a million dollars spent iu St. Louis, during one summer, for beer." In 18(;0, 122,400 barrels of lager beer, .Sr),.-)00 of common beer, and 4,400 barrels of ale were manufactured, worth at wholesale $1,500,000, so that during the six years preceding the war the brewing industry of St. Louis increased with remarkable activity. Between 18(10 and 1870 the production of beer more than doubled itself, and during the next seventeen years the increase was nearly five hundred per cent, for at the present time the breweries of St. Louis are producing fully 2,000,000 barrels, or more than (iO, 000, 000 gallons yearly. The following table shows the increase, year by year, since 1877, with but one fractional decrease during the entire period: Year. 1877... 1,S78 . 1879- . 1880 1881 188-2 1883 1884 1885. 1886. 1887 1888 1889 1890 1891 1892 . Barrels. 471 2.32 521,684 613,667 828,072 959,236 1,069,715 1,100,000 1,122,2G.5 1,086,032 1,280,091 1,383,361 1,482,883 1,546,587 1,856,883 1,810,812 1,961,449 (Gallons. 14, 16 19, 25, 29, 33, 34. 34, 33, 39, 43, 46. 4s, 58, 56 60 608, 172, 023, 670. 739, 661, 100, 790, 666, 682 557 ,710, .717 ,498 ,i:« ,814 192 204 677 232 313 165 000 215 992 821 872 815 ,490 ,114 ,172 ,919' The census returns for 1890 go more fully into the growth during the eighties. Thus, in 1880 the capital invested in this industrj- was returned at $4,000,000, just one-fourth the total for 1890. During the ten years the army of employes in- creased from 1,200 to 2,800, and the annual wages from a little more than half a million to two millions and a quarter. The value of the product annually appears to be almost identical with the capital invested, and the increase dur- ing the ten vears was hence about four hundred per cent. Several new breweries have been started since the census was taken, and at the present time the number of men employed ex- *The returns for 1893 could not be included in this work. Taking the actual figures for November and estiniatiiij; for December, the number of gallons would be about 63,000,000. MANUFACTURES. 43 ceeds 3,700,* to whom there are paid in wages at least two and a half million dollars. There are about twenty-five large breweries in St. Louis, in addition to several others which are small only by comparison. Reference has been made in the preceding chapter to the purchase by the English syndicate of some fifteen of our most prominent breweries. This transaction was completed some five years ago, and the syn- dicate has so increased the capacity of its enor- mous plants that it now produces three-cpiarters of a million barrels of beer annually, and can increase its output to a million and a half bar- rels when the demand makes it necessary. The purchase of the breweries by these capitalists created quite a sensation, and called attention to St. Louis in a variety of ways. The two largest breweries held aloof from the transaction, and could not be tempted by English gold. These breweries are visited every year by thousands of tourists, and a regular system of guides to pilot the strangers over the immense plants is main- tained. The largest of them is in itself a small town, inaddition to which it maintains branches in New York, Boston, Philadelphia, Pittsburgh and other cities, and the actual number of its em- ployes exceeds 4,000. Shipments are made to Mexico, to West Indies, Central America, Brazil, the Sandwich Islands, Australia, Japan, China and other ecjually distant points. Quite recentlv another attempt has been made by wealthy Lon- don bankers to obtain control of the two mam- moth breweries of St. Louis which have so far reserved their individuality. The effort was not successful, but the persistency of those making ^.he offer cannot be regarded as other than a vvell-merited compliment to a city which is just beginning to be appreciated at its full worth in the old world. During the years LS90, 181)1 and I.S92 new establishments have been erected in St. Louis, and increased competition has been TOBACCO AND CIGARS. *State Labor ConnnissioDer's Report, 1893. These cal- culations exclude resident agents and salesmen, traveling- men, clerical help, etc. The Anheuser-Busch Biewery, alone, finds employment for mure men than are returned for all the Vjrewerie? combined, but its vast army of cni- r,)r.vp<; includes many hundred men who are not brewers or actual producers. created. St. Louis is not quite the greatest beer producing city in America, but it does not fall far below the leaders in this respect, and before the century expires it will pass at least two of the three cities which now lead it. In tobacco St. Louis leads the entire country, a fact which can be easily proved by reference to the returns made yearly to the gov- ernment officers and to the amount of revenue paid. Our largest tobacco house has the record of paying a larger tax in a given period than any other establishment, and it is certainly the best equipped establishment of its kind in the world. As long ago as 18r)0 the city claimed the largest tobacco manufacturing house in the West, and from that time to this it has easily maintained its supremacy, not only over the West, but also the entire country. In 1880 there were in the city 222 establishments engaged in the manufacture of tobacco or cigars, with a capital of about one and a half million. The number of hands employed was 2,(i27, and the value of the product was less than :f (),0no,()00. The census for 1890 revealed the existence in the city of 12 tobacco factories and 29 (i cigar factories, with a total product valued at about 116,000,000. The way in which the govern- ment revenue is collected makes it easy to ascer- tain at any period the condition of the tobacco industry. From the government returns it is evident that St. Louis manufactures about one- fourth the tobacco product of the United States. The number of pounds now manufactured 3'early is about 60,000,000, worth nearly .$20,000,000. About 6,000 people are kept constantly em- ployed, and the popularity of St. Louis brands is so great that they sell practically in every part of the civilized world, and certainly in every city of the United States. The annual increase in the product varies from ten to fifteen per cent, and, although the output was reduced in 1892 by a disastrous fire, the returns for that year showed a gain of upwards of 2,000,000 pounds. The New Jersey district, which conies second to St. Louis in the returns, had for many years a very valuable trade in the far West, but 44 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. St. lyouis factories have now secured a practical monopoly of this trade, and, in addition, the de- mand from Mexico and other Spanish-American countries is largely on the increase. The city is, of course, exceptionally well lo- cated for a cigar jobbing center, and one house iu it handles more cigars than any one house in any other city. From $3,000 to $5,000 is paid weekly by manufacturers in the way of duty, and there are now more than a million cigars manufactured ever)' week. About 30,000 pounds of snuff are placed on the market by St. Louis houses every year. Passing to a more indispensable article of every-day life, it may be stated that St. Louis is the third largest flour manufacturing city in America, its output being exceeded only by Minneapolis and Milwaukee. If the returns from factories situated outside of the city limits, but owued and operated by St. Louis millers, are included, the city is second in the order. The annual output of mills within the city limits exceeds 1,(;()(),()()0 barrels, to which should be added 1,. . "co Tf I— < O t^ t^ l^ 1- o 0) 00 CD CO ■^ r- t^ r^ '^icfo »o'r. •^ ^ l-< jq i-H COiG I— 1 1— ( 1— 1 .—1 l-H l-H l-H I— : »-i l-H • i-H rH r-« r-t rH r~i tn : CO ." yi ai S c/i S ! r/i '3 S — o ■« o : .^ o §-3 §^ •'5 \ a ■■ o hJ kJ C >^^ ^*: : O i-1 :^A _^- J w ^ w ^« t/5 Ui en « a tn ri {/ jm '.■Ji o -4-» o 5 K < *5 o .2 m M.2 1- '3 3 ■ '■ a w m • J-. OJ •CS ^ : '^ : a oT ■ii S ii to : 3 "n O .9 "u So U CO 11 S.-5 t 3 ■ £ : 'u : +J : tn '. T3 ■ ca : O ; m ■ B en -a S tn Cl! O ;-t "a a — oi .2 ca : u ^ i-i ■3 '' ■ *5 a o c o cn i 'o a o Vh ) rt 5' t; I 2c > 4J M C ) t 1 a : ' a ° 4) < '5 Q w.:: M (D ^ ffl 1- tj L !» . 5 S 2 C CO ^ , o '^ CI tn J •J o s i£^ j;>s s o 1- o a ^ ►5^ ^ : w 5 S .^.5? .^5? S ^ so tn tn — a> u 1^ 1^ "T^ *4J "S tn tn T' u u. t. u '^ u u CO ct] 5 & ..& H H U •t ^ 5 n & P d * 1 These figures are bewildering in their vast- ness, especially when it is remembered that it is but a little more than forty years ago when work was commenced on the first railroad entering St. Louis. It is interesting at this period, arid in view of the marvelous achievements of St. Louis railroads, to glance back for a moment at the early efforts to secure railroad connection of any kind for St. Louis. After the Legislature of Missouri had in the year 1849 incorporated a railway company to build a road from St. Louis to Jefferson City, with a view to its being ex- tended out to the Pacific Ocean, local sentiment was inclined to be facetious as well as skeptical. During the last year or two there have been many prophets who have doubted the possibility of connecting St. Louis and Chicago by means of an electric railroad which would shorten the distance between the two cities so as to bring it down to a three-hours' journey. Forty-four years ago there were as many, if not more, people who were certain that the road then projected across the State would never be built. While people were discussing the impossibility of the project, Mr. Thomas Allen called a meeting of the incorporators at the St. Louis insurance rooms and delivered an address which forms "mighty interesting reading" at this time. Mr. Allen asked his hearers to imagine that the road had been constructed and opened for trafiic. " Let us enter," he said, "the depot or station- house, which is the largest house in the city. Here we see boxes of merchandise of all sizes, and various articles of household and family utensils, hogsheads of sugar, sacks of coffee and of salt, barrels of molasses and of whisky, kits of mackerel, boxes of raisins, bundles of paper, wagons in pieces and small carriages, kegs of nails, bars of iron, boxes of Indian goods, of shoes, hats, tar and turpentine, marked for the towns in the interior, and some for Deseret, all of which the men are at work placing in the freight train. There is none of that disorder and flurry which exists upon the levee, but all is neatness and order. "But the bell is ringing. We will take our A FORECAST . IN 1849. RAILROAD AND RIVER FACILITIES. 55 ticket and step aboard tlie passenger train with fifty or sixty otlier passengers who are destined for various points along the line of the road. Off we go, with the speed of twenty-fi\'e miles an hour. We lia\'e not gone five miles when the pace of the train is slacked and we observe one or two gentlemen jumping off at the su- burban residences. A few miles further is a platform and a turn-out. Here several are waiting to get off to go to their dwellings. Here also we observe a string of open cars laden with coal. We pass on, scarcely having time to observe the fine residences which city gen- tlemen have constructed all along each side of the road, but we stop every few moments to let off a passenger or two and take on as many more, so that our number is kept about the same. Here we pass a train loaded with wood, with a few cars of baled hay attached. The country on either side seems to be full of busy men and every farm occupied. Directly we reach a water station, where we observe im- mense piles of cord-wood, and many men en- gaged in hauling and cording. Here also is a small refreshment house, and here again we leave and take on a few passengers. "We come in sight of the Missouri, and catch a glimpse, as we pass, of a steamboat, with a small freight and a few passengers, puffing away and hard on a sand-bar. Soon we meet a freight train loaded with pigs of lead and copper and iron from Franklin county. In about two hours from St. Louis, we are at the Union Station, where we discharge a few passengers and ob- serve large piles of metal pigs. Though stop- ping now and then to leave or take on a pas- senger, or to supply the engine with water, we are soon in Gasconade county. We pass cars laden with cannel coal, and we discharge at Hermann Station a number of Germans and their baggage, and we observe some cars receiv- ing freight, some of it apparently pianos, and quite a number of pipes one would suppose to be wine — a;ll the manufacture of Hermann. We are come, however, to the crossing of the Gasconade, which is a grand bridge of solid ma- sonry of great strength and durability. Here is quite an important station, and we notice a number of new buildings going up on lots sold by the railway company, imniense quantities of yellow pine piled up, and a number of cars at- tached to an engine ready to start to St. Louis with a heavy load of lumber. "We cross the Lamine, stop at the Saline Station, and we are struck with the fine appear- ance of the country as we pass on and observe niimerous excellent farms. We leave a few passengers at Lexington Station, a few miles south of that place, and reach our station not far from the Kansas river (Kaw river) about tea- time, having been about ten hours from St. Louis. Here our remaining passengers, to the number of about twenty or thirty, dispose them- selves for the night at a good hotel, intending in the morning to be off for Independence, Lib- erty, Westport and St. Joseph, and other places up the river. The hotel is quite full of passen- gers, there being as many to go down as up, and in the station-house is a freight train ready to start. It was remarked that there was not less than a thousand tons of freight that day on this road. Now, although this be an imaginary trip, who can doubt, who knows anything of railroads, that the picture would be fully if not more than realized upon the opening of such a road? Can we do any better than to take the 2,000 shares required preliminary to the per- manent organization? I am strong in the be- lief that if the road had been built but fifty miles, or if built to Jefferson City, it would pay." When Mr. Allen concluded this address he locked the door, A OLORIOUS REALIZATION. and, turning to those present, remarked that it was a time for acting and not speaking, adding a hope that the 2,000 shares of stock required would be subscribed for before the door was unlocked. One hundred thousand dollars in stock was required, for which Messrs. James H. Lucas, John O' Fallon and Daniel Page subscribed, and thus was laid the founda- tion-stone for a railroad which in itself has be- come a source of untold worth to vSt. Louis, and of a railroad systenr generally, which, as has been shown above, is equal or superior to that 56 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. of an}' other city in the world. The St. Louis Traffic Commission, of which Mr. C. N. Osgood is executive officer, with the title of Commis- sioner, has enabled fnll benefit to be derived from the great railroad mileage of the city, and it is largely from the reports of Mr. Osgood that the data concerning these railroads centering in the city are taken. These railroads are: Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe. Bai,timore & Ohio. Chicago & Alton. Chicago, Burlington & Quincy. Cleveland, Cincinnati, Chicago & St. Louis ("The Big Four"). Illinois Central (via the Vandalia and Cairo Short Lines). Jacksonville Southeastern. Louisville & Nashville. Louisville, Evansville & St. Louis ("Air Line"). Missouri, Kans.\s & Tf:xas. Missouri Pacific. Mobile & Ohio. Ohio & Mississippi. St. Louis & Hannibal. St. Louis & San Francisco (" 'Frisco Line"). St. Louis, Alton & Terre Haute ("Cairo Short Line"). St. Louis, Chicago & St. Paul ("Bluff Line"). St. Louis, Iron Mountain & Southern ("Iron Mountain"). St. Louis, Kansas City & Colorado. St. Louis, Keokuk & Northwestern ("Burlington Route"). St. Louis Southwestern ("Cotton Belt"). St. Louis, Vandalia S: Terre Haute ("Vandalia Line"). Toledo, St. Louis & Kansas City ("Clover Leaf "). Wabash. These are exclusive of the transfer lines con- necting St. lyouis with the Relay depot on the other side of the Eads bridge. These are: The Terminal Railroad Association. The St. Louis Merchants' Bridge Terminal. The WiGGIn's Ferry Company (and associated lines). The Madison County Ferry. Louisville, Evansville & St. Louis R. R. Ferry. Carondelet Ferry. In discussing in detail the various railroad connections of St. Louis, they will be dealt with in their alpha- betical order, as above; it being left to the reader to discriminate between the importance THE A TCHISON- 'FRISCO SYSTEM. of the various systems, and to decide which would be first discussed, were-the classification by order of merit. The first on the list is the Atchison, Topeka & Santc Fe, which, by the absorption of the St. Louis & San Francisco road, some three years ago, obtained a direct entrance to the city, and made St. Louis one of the terminal points of the great system which controls over 11,000 miles of railroad, extending to California on the west, Texas and Old Mex- ico on the south, and the lakes on the north. The amalgamation of the two systems gave St. Louis another route to the Pacific Coast and also to Old Mexico, and, in addition to that, it greatly increased the railroad facilities between St. Lotiis and Oklahoma. By means of the 'Frisco branch to Sapulpa, St. Louis has railroad facil- ities without change of cars, to the northeast corner of Oklahoma, while the 'Frisco Southern Kansas line, with the Atchison connection at Arkansas City, affords a direct communication with Guthrie and Oklahoma, the two largest cities in the exceptionally prosperotis and thriving Territory, concerning whose marvelous growth figures have been already quoted. The 'Frisco mileage alone covers 1,500 miles, mainly through the States of Missouri, Kansas, Arkansas, Texas and the Indian Territory. It affords rapid and convenient connection between St. Lotiis and all parts of central and Southwestern Missotiri, and it also sends out from St. Louis daily throttgh sleeping cars to the City of Mexico and, to California. The quantity of freight shipped into St. Louis by the 'Frisco was 551,000 tons in 1892, as compared with 48(3,000 in 1891 and 437,000 in 1890. During the same three j'cars the shipments from St. Louis increased from ,HI7,000 tons to 409,000 tons. The immense cjuautity of raw material, lead and zinc, oil and similar products, accounts for the fact that in four years the shipments into St. Louis in- creased fully sixty per cent. The Chicago & Alton Railroad is a line verj' pop- ttlar locally. It has only 850 miles of track, l)nt e\-ery mile is a good one, and the connections with Chicago and Kansas THE CHICAGO AND ALTON. RAILROAD AND RIVER FACILITIES. 57 THE '• BURLINGTON ROUTE." City are a source of sjreat profit to St. Louis couiuierce, as the territory through which tlie road passes is rich in the extreme and an ever- increasing source of trade. During the last two or three years it has made vast improvements in its train service, and the admirable condition in which its ballasted track is kept is a source of general pride to all connected with the road. It hauls in iunnense quantities of coal and of grain, stock and fruit products, and it also affords ad- mirable connection with Wisconsin and Michi- gan and se\eral Eastern States. A great portion of its road has been double-tracked recently, and the road is in a condition of great prosperity. In 1892 it hauled into the city 12(;, ()()() tons of freight, as compared with 102,000 tons four years ago. During the same year, 1892, it distributed 103,000 tons of St. Louis merchandise, as compared with 91,000 tons in 1889. The " Burlington," or the "Q," is becoming more and more a St. Louis road. Its management has of late years been thoroughly impressed with the importance of St. Louis as a shipping point, and the invest- ments that have been made with a view to increasing connections with the city have run into the millions. This route by its own rails affords connection with the best parts of Illinois and Missouri, Iowa, Minnesota, Ne- braska, Kansas, South Dakota, Wyoming and Colorado. In addition to this, it reaches by track of its own nearly every important busi- ness center between St. Louis and the Rocky mountains and Lake Michigan. Including the St. Louis, Keokuk & Western, the quantity of freight hauled into the city in 1,(•()() incandescent lights will be used for its illumina- tion. The ladies' parlors, which are now prac- tically completed, are also models of excellence; and the general offices, railroad, telegraphic and otherwise, are of the most perfect character. When the Municipal Assembly granted the necessary authority for closing the streets run- ning through the ten-acre tract now covered by the depot, it was stipidated that the main build- ing should cost not less than $800,000. The actual cost of this portion of the work has not been made public, but it is so far in excess of the minimum named in the franchise, that those who took the precaution to put in the figures feel now that their ideas of the work proposed were extremely conservative. The train-shed is more remarkable than the building itself. It is 606 feet wide, nearly 700 feet long, and 100 feet high. The roof of the shed forms an arch PLAN OF THE UNION STATION SHED. of 600 feet radius, the height varying from 30 feet at the sides to the 100 feet already mentioned in the center. The roof is supported by forty-four outer columns, forty-four interme- diate columns and twenty-four middle columns of great strength. The roof is almost entirely of glass, of which there are used altogether 120,000 square feet in the work, all of St. L,ouis manufacture. An extension to the train-shed calls for 42,000 square feet of space, and will give the depot facilities for handling an unlim- ited amount of traffic expeditiously and safely. The number of tracks provided for in this shed is thirty-two, twice as many as are to be found in the Pennsylvania depot at Philadelphia, and nearly twice as many as in the large depot at Frankfurt, Germany. Between the tracks will be hardwood platforms, twelve feet in the clear. As already mentioned, the tracks run into the depot from south to north, and the platforms parallel the tracks, bounded at the southern end by fences and gates. Along the Eighteenth street side there is also a fifty-foot platform for the exclusive use of promenaders, who will not be allowed to go on the platforms. Seventy feet from the rear depot wall a bag- ofage-room extends 300 feet southward. This will be the most complete quick-ser\'ice room in the country, and will be so great an improve- ment over the accommodations hitherto enjoyed by the travelers through St. Louis that com- parison is out of question. One more feature of the depot must be mentioned, because of the ingenuity of which it gives evidence, and also of the immense advantages that w'ill accrue. This has relation to the system of tracks and their entrance to the sheds, which have been so arranged that no engine will come under the massive roof. In the good days to come, loco- motives will be equipped with smoke-consuming devices, but even then they will be objection- able under cover. Now, they give forth vol- umes of smoke and make a variety of unpleas- ant noises, and their room, is far preferat)le to their company; and it is a splendid feature of the new depot that the air in the sheds will always be perfectly clear and pure. The thirty- 68 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. two tracks will vary in length from 400 to 1,200 feet, and they will converge into a bottle- shaped junction or throat at the soutli end. A train coming in from either direction will run past the shed; the engine will be reversed and the train backed in over the curved "Y" to its respective track. No switching will be required, as the trains will be made np and ready to resume their respective journeys in either direction when required. The switches will all be controlled by the lever-locking sys- tem, from a switch-tower of consideral:)le height. There will be no possibility of collisions, and the service will be improved and expedited in the most pronounced manner. If the arrangement already described, whereby all passenger trains will enter the city via the Mill Creek Valley from the west, is carried out, the system will be still greater in its simplicity. At the first opening of the depot, however, the Wabash, Missouri Pacific, Iron Mountain, Keo- kuk, Colorado, and San Francisco trains, with others using their tracks, will come in from the west under the Twenty-first street bridge, pass- ing the shed entrance and then backing in as described. The Wabash Eastern, Chicago & Alton, "Burlington," " Cairo Short Line," "Big Four," Illinois Central, lyouisville & Nashville, Louisville, Evansville & St. Louis and Balti- more & Ohio trains will at first run np the Mill Creek Valley from the eastern apjiroach, pass under the Eighteenth street bridge, and back into the shed and depot from the west. The official announcement has been made that the depot will be open for traffic next March ( 1894 ), and there seems every reason to believe that the promise will be carried out and that the magnificent depot will be in use before the sum- mer travel commences. The extraordinary rail- road facilities of St. Louis have, to a great extent, RIVER CONNECTIONS. ■, -, ■, •. overshadowed its river facilities, and have caused sight to be lost of the fact that St. Louis is the chief port in l'S,()00 miles of inland waterways. In years gone by the river was the making of St. Louis, and al- THB IMPORTANCE OF OUR though the city's greatness is due more to the rail- roads than to the river, no treatise on the great- ness of St. Louis will ever be complete without a reference to the river and the enonnons traffic that it has witnessed. " There is no warrant," to quote from the memorial presented by the Merchants' Exchange in 1892 to the Fifty- second Congress, in favor of the deepening of the river channel between St. Louis and the Gulf, " for the assertion that in this age of rail- roads rivers have lost their fascination and influence over the people, and that it is as easy to build up a great and populous city at a dis- tance from navigable water as upon its shore. The history of settlements in this countrv, as well in the last forty years of railroad making, as in the one hundred and fifty that preceded it, attests the continued ascendency of navigable streams and lakes over the popular mind, and their great value in commercial, industrial and distributive economies. The same forces that located New York at the mouth of the Hudson, Philadelphia on the Delaware, Baltimore on the Patapsco, New Orleans and St. Louis on the Mississippi , Pittsburgh , Cincinnati and Louisville on the Ohio, and Chicago and Milwaukee on Lake Michigan, before railroads were thought of, have assisted to build np Minneapolis, St. Paul, LaCrosse, Winona, Dubuque, Davenport, Rock Island, Muscatine, Keokuk, Hannibal, Ouiiicy, Cairo, Memphis and Vicksburg on the Mississippi, Evansville, Owensboro and Pa- ducah on the Ohio, and Kansas City, Leaven-" worth, St. Joseph, Omaha, Council Bluffs, Sioux City, Pierre and Bismarck on the Missouri; and it may be observed that in the settlement of the newer portions of the Mississippi Valley in the last half century, it has ever been the rule to found the leading cities and towns on rivers and lakes, if there were ri\-ers or lakes within reach, unless special agencies dictated a different loca- tion. And it is a fact not without significance that the cities, founded on the waterside, which were leading cities as far back as 1830, have maintained their pre-eminence in the face of railway influences, and are leading cities in 1892. Pittsburgh, at the head of the Ohio, con- RAILROAD AND RIVER FACILITIES. 69 tinues to be the largest city in Western Peuns)-1- vania; Cincinnati, on tlie Ohio, and Cleveland, on Lake Erie, are the largest cities in Ohio; Chicago is the chief city of Illinois, St. Lonis and Kansas City of Missonri, Lonisville of Ken- tucky, St. Paul and Minneapolis of Minnesota, Omaha of Nebraska, Memphis and Nashville of Tennessee, Little Rock of Arkansas, Vicksburg of Mississippi and New Orleans, Shreveport and Baton Rouge of Louisiana — and there are good reasons for believing that these cities, all located on the waterside, will continue to maintain their ascendency in their respective States for genera- tions to come." The actual population of the Mississippi river States alone is 18,r)0U,U()0, while the population of the Mississippi Valley States isover 28, 00(1, 000. The region drained by the Mississippi and its tributaries embraces one-half the States in the Union and nearly one-half the population, and the immense value of the city's river location can easily be understood when this fact is taken into consideration. According to the census of 1890 upwards of ;-^l, 000, 000 tons of freight were carried during the year 1889 on the Mississippi and its tributaries, the principal commodities and the tonnage of each being as follows: C0.M3I0DIT1ES. Tons. Coal - Forest Products Merchandise Wheat Cottou Iron Ore Cotton Seed and Oil Corn Sugar and Molasses Animal Products Stone and Ciravel Clay and Sand Manufactured Iron Mill Products Hay Other Grain Fruits and Vegetables Tobacco Pig Iron Oils r Ice Cement, Brick and Lime.. Total 632, 531, SS6, 068, GSO, 530, 392, 266, 189, 169, 158, 141, 12-2, 88, 7s, 51, 23 17 5, 3, 4, 1 109 189 259 504 635 647 988 071 829 470 453 464 000 129 635 3U8 091 707 500 128 l)(t0 231 PROSPECTS OF INCREASED RIVER TRAFFIC. 31,054,423 The river equipment of the streams with which St. Louis has direct traffic and large pro- prietary interest embrace upwards of l,oO() boats, with an aggregate tonnage of 480,000, the actual of weight of freight moved on them amounting to about one-half the total given above. It could scarcely be ex- pected that the river traffic to and from St. Louis would show a large increase when the immense railroad freight returns are taken into consideration, but considerably upwards of 1,000,000 tons of freight are received at the city and shipped from it every year. The re- turns would be infinitely larger but for suspen- sions of traffic caused by low water, and for several j-ears the efforts of the Merchants' Ex- change have been directed towards the securing from the Federal Oovernment a measure of jus- tice in the matter of river improvement. The movement, warmly supported by Mr. E. A. Noo- nan, during his administration as mayor, came to a definite head in the years 1891 and 1892, when the executive committee of the commercial and manufacturing associations of St. Louis for the improvement of the Mississippi river secured the introduction of abillappropriating$8, 000, 000 annually for the improvement of the river. This bill passed the Senate, but owing to the strong opposition in the House, it was deemed inad- visable to run the risk of pushing it, and in its place there was obtained an appropriation of $4,000,000 per annum for four years, for con- tinuous work on the Mississippi river from St. Paul to New Orleans. This work is now in progress, and a concerted effort will be made to ha\'e the appropriations continued indefinitely until St. Louis becomes a seaport, and until the river is navigable at all periods of the year, except when closed by ice. The high water of the year 1892 reduced the river tonnage considerably. During the months of April, May, June and July the a\-erage stage of the river at St. Louis was about twenty feet, as compared with zero of gauge in the year LSI);], and again in December, 1893. This latter indi- 70 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. cated about twelve feet of water in the channel in here and Cairo. The arrivals and departures at the harbor of St. lyouis, with four and some- and from the port of St. Louis during the last times only three feet of water in places Ijctween twenty years are as follows: 1892. 1891. 1890. 1889. 18S8-. 18S7.. 1886.. 1885. 1884.. 1883. 1882.. 1881. 18S0. 1879. 1878.. 1877. 1876.. 1875 1874 . 1873. ARRIVALS. lioats. Barges. 2053 1 1090 ' 1881 1019 1927 1274 1 2195 1474 2079 1244 i 2361 1272 2087 1269 1878 1030 2048 999 2240 1185 2537 1110 2426 1525 2871 1821 23G0 1471 2322 1291 2l.i0 660 2122 6S3 2201 743 2332 951 2316 1020 Tons of Freight Received. 656,980 450,050 530,790 543,990 597,955 652,880 570,205 479,065 520,350 629,225 802,080 852,410 893,860 688,970 714,700 644,485 688,755 663,525 732,765 810,055 Tons of Lumber and Logs by Raft Received, 130,220 142,0i)0 132,940 127,695 130,855 213,165 200,785 217,860 240,330 231,285 271,490 356,020 198,315 DEPARTURES. 1892 1891 1890 1889 1888 1887 1886 1885 1884 1883 1882 1881 1880 1879 1878 1877 1876 1875. 1874 1873 Boats. 2013 1845 1910 2211 2076 2328 2102 182S 2018 2140 2487 2340 2866 2392 2348 2156 2118 2223 2364 2303 Tons of Freight Shipped. 502,215 512,930 617,985 712,700 510,115 637,060 561,895 534,175 514,910 677,340 769,905 884,025 1,038,350 676,445 614,675 597,676 600,225 639,095 707,. 325 783,256 CHAPTER VI. RAPID TRANSIT AND ITS INFLUENCES. THE EARLY STRUGGLES OF OMNIBUS AND STREET CAR COMPANIES.— THE INTRODUCTION OF CABLE AND ELECTRIC POWER.— EFFECT ON IMPROVEMENTS AND VALUES. Ml ^^HE STREKT C.\R service of St. Louis \ / is now equal to that to be found in any (g) (g) city in the world, and in many respects it is far superior. It has more special features than the street car senace of any other city, and it runs some of the most handsome cars in the world. During the year 1893 the use of horses and mules for street car traction was put a stop to in the down-town sections of the city, and the three roads which were the last to fall in line with the procession commenced the regular running of electric cars during the summer. Now every main line is operated by electricity or cable, and there are nearly .300 miles in operation, while the total number of passengers carried each year is about 100,000,000. To realize what this means it should be borne in mind that to maintain an average of 100,000,000 passengers per annum it is necessarj' for the cars to haul a number efjual to one-half the city's entire population every day, Sundays included. Before describing the splendid equipments of to-day, a brief reference must be made to the early days of omnibuses and street cars in St. Louis. The first omnibus was run without any concerted system or plan about fifty-five years ago. A local paper in 18o8 speaks of the handsome style of an omnibus RAPID TRANSIT AND ITS INFLUENCES. 71 run by Mr. Belcher, but it was not until 1844 that an omnibus service of any extent was es- tablished. Mr. Erastus Wells and Mr. Calvin Case in that year established an omnibus line, which is referred to in a local paper on June 11, 1845, in the following terms: "It is but a few months since our opinion was asked as to the probable profits of an omnibus to be run in certain parts of the city. At that time no omnibuses were run in the city. The experiment was attempted. The first was started by Messrs. Case & Wells, to run from the National Hotel on Market street, to the ferry at the upper end of the city. We believe it has been successful as could have been expected from a new undertaking. At first people were a little shy of it; some did not think it exactly a gen- teel way of traveling the streets. These scruples have entirely disappeared, and everybody now rides in them, and is glad of the oj^portunity. Messrs. Case & Wells manifest a determination to keep up with the encouragement given them, and have lately put on their line a new and beautiful omnibus, manufactured in Troy, New York. It is a fine specimen of workmanship, and is a very comfortable carriage. In addition to the line above mentioned, we now have regular lines running from the National Hotel to the Arsenal, along Second street; a line from the Planters' House to the Arsenal, along Fourth street; a line from the corner of Fourth and Market streets to the Camp Springs, and a line to the Prairie House. All seem to be doing a flourish- ing and profitable business, and they prove to be a great convenience to persons residing in dis- tant parts, and to those having business to at- tend to in remote parts of the city. Tliey have contributed not a little to give an increase of value to real estate lying at a distance from the center or business portion of the city." In 1850 Erastus Wells, with Calvin Case, Robert O'Blennus and Lawrence Mathews formed a combination which purchased and op- erated all the omnibus lines in St. Louis. In the following year there were six lines in exist- ence, as follows: First, from the Arsenal to Ca- rondelet; second, from the corner of Market and THE FIRST STREET RAILROAD TRIP. Second streets to the Arsenal; third, from the corner of Main and Market to Camp Springs; fourth, from the corner of Broadway and Frank- lin avenue to Rising Sun Tavern; fifth, from the corner of Market and Third to Bremen; sixth, from Bremen to BisselPs Ferry. The omnibuses from these points started every four to ten min- utes, and the lines comprised in all ninety om- nibuses, 450 head of horses, four stables and about 100 hands. In January, 1859, a meeting was held to dis- cuss the question of the building of street railroads, and the sense of the meeting was so strongly in favor of the innova- tion that local enterprise was at once directed to- wards the incorporation of companies for build- ing and equipping street railroads. In the fol- lowing May the Missouri Railroad Company was organized, and Mr. Erastus Wells became its president, a position he occupied for more than twenty years. By July the road was con- structed as far as Twelfth street, and on the 4tli of July the first car was run over the track. In these days of street railroads running trains five, and even fifteen, miles, the excite- ment which the first trip created on the six- block route seems remarkable and almost hu- morous. The literature of the day tells us that the first car was a beautiful vehicle, light, ele- gant and commodious, having cost $900, in- cluding freight from Philadelphia, where it was constructed. "Mr. Wells, president of the road, then took the reins," we are told, "and, after a jerk or two, the first car moved slowly but steadily up the track amidst loud shouts and cheers from the crowd. Troops of urchins followed in its wake, endeavoring to hang on, and we fear unless this is prevented in the future, serious accidents may occur." The journey appears to have been accompanied by great difficulties, the car leaving the track several times, but Tenth street was finally reached, "the track having been cleared of Stone only that distance." It took many years to bring the Missouri Railroad system up to its present standard, but Grand avenue was reached 72 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. during the seventies by both Olive and Market streets. The St. Louis Railroad, or the Broadway line, was also started in 18.')!), as was the Citizens' Railway, which originally ran as far west as Garrison avenue. In 1864 the road was extended to the Fair Grounds, and in 1881 along the St. Charles rock road to Rinkelville. The ex- tension of this road between King's Highway and Rinkelville is still operated by horses on a single track with turn-outs. It is shortly to be reconstructed and equipped as an electric road, but in the meantime it gives an interesting in- sight into the original system of street railroads in St. Louis as compared with the magnificent equipment of to-day. The People's road was also constructed along Fourth street in 18.")9, and five years later it was extended to Lafayette Park. In 1882 it was further extended to Grand avenue. The first step towards the forma- tion of the Union Depot system of street rail- roads was made in 18()2, when the track was laid from Fourth and Pine streets to Gravois road. So many extensions have taken place since, that the road has become a general South St. Louis means of transportation, and it has just completed a line to Caroudelet on the high ground. The year 1864 was an important one in street railroad history. It saw the building of the Benton-Bellefontaine Railroad as far as the water tower, and also the commencement of work on the Lindell system, now one of the largest in the United States. Cars were run on V)oth the Washington avenue and Fourteenth street branches early in 18117, the first named road having for some years its terminus at Ware avenue. The Union Railway was organized the follow- ing year and track was laid as far as Hyde Park. Ten years later the road was extended to the Fair Grounds. In 1874 the Cass Avenue and Fair Grounds Railway was organized, and in June 1875 it was first operated. On October 25, 1874, some excitement was caused by the running of the first two-story car in the city. This was on the Northwestern St. Louis Rail- way, which became absorbed by the Mound City Railway Company, whose cars were first oper- ated in 18(j(>. The South St- Louis Railway Company was incorporated in 1876 at about the time of the adoption of the scheme and charter. By the purchase of the Carondelet Street Rail- way Company, it connected Carondelet with St. Louis, running due south. Another company, not strictly a street railroad company, but of equal importance to the city, is the St. Louis Transfer Company, originally known as the Ohio & Mississippi Transfer Com- pany. This was chartered in 1859, and has provided admirable transfer and omnibus facili- ties for passengers, baggage and freight ever since, keeping pace with the growth of public sentiment and the improvement of transfer facili- ties generally. This in brief traces the THE SERVICE . . , , origin of the magumceut OF OLD ST. LOUIS - ^ ., , . ■,-^- r street railroad facilities of AT ITS BEST. g^_ j^^^^j^ to-day. In 18S2, when, as we have already seen. Old St. Louis began to merge into New St. Louis, there were in operation fourteen street railroads, which carried about 30,000,000 passengers during the year, or less than one-third the total carried now. The following table, based on the 1882 returns, will give some slight idea of the small begin- ning upon which the street railroad system of New St. Louis was based: Baden Beiitou & Bellefontaine.... Cass Avenue Citizens' The Lindell Missouri Mound City People's St. I^ouis , - . South St. Louis Tower Grove & Lafayette.. Union Union Depot - . a O =3 r. 14 12 3 8 1 10 ! 17 132 1 193 i 290 I 401 295 ; 83 I 250 ] 442 75 93 210 366 42 30 56 70 56 2-2 30 66 23 20 24 68 ; 6,820 48,720 83,810 94,520 159,430 122.960 22,880 59,110 125,860 32.510 25,0.")0 03,660 75,870 The influence of New St. Louis at once began to be felt in the street cars. As seen above. Grand avenue was generally the terminus of RAPID TRANSIT AND ITS INFLUENCES. 73 railroads running west, and the extension of the lyindell Railway as far as Vandeventer a\-enue by means of a loop running west on Delmar avenue, north on Vandeventer, east on Finney and south on Grand, was regarded as quite a work of enterprise. Bobtail cars — the popular name for the unpopular diminutive cars, whose drivers are compelled to act in dual capacity as drivers and conductors — were run, and, al- though the road proved a great convenience, it was not pushed to its full limit. The Market street road was also extended as far as Forest Park, and on Sundays through cars were run, though during the week the much-despised bob- tail cars did duty on the extension. St. Louisans, visiting other cities and observ- ing the successful operation in them of street railroads operated by rapid transit in the shape of cables, became impressed with the fact that horse and nude traction was too slow for a great city like St. Louis, and the question of rapid transit began to be discussed here very freely. As we have seen in a j^receding chapter, the railroad magnates strongly objected to the pro- posed innovation, and a vigorous outcry was also raised by the conservative and timid ele- ment. It seems strange that emancipation from the old rut should have been inaugurated by Indianapolis capitalists, but such was the case, and in 1884 the first franchise was granted for a cable road. The promoters had acquired the title and interest in the narrow-gauge road which ran from the intersection of Grand avenue and Olive street to the interesting city of Floris- sant, seventeen miles out in the country. That this road was intended for much greater things than it had achieved, was evidenced by its title, which was the St. Louis, Creve Coeur & St. Charles Railway Company, to which cor- poration the privileges were granted by the Municipal Assembly after a bitter fight. Ordinance No. 12,852, ap- proved by Mayor Ewing in 188-4, should ever be regarded by St. Louis property holders and citizens with something akin to veneration, because it sanctioned the first step towards the THE FIRST CABLE ROAD FRANCHISE. emancipation of the city from the rule of horses and mules on its street car tracks, and because the work done under it gave a marked impetus to the new growth of the city. The franchise granted the company permission to lay a cable track between the junction of Sixth and Locust streets and the intersection of the narrow-gauge road with Morgan street, at a point a little west of Vandeventer avenue. The precautions taken against damage to the city and private property in the construction of the road were somewhat remarkable, and showed that the warnings of those who had prophesied dire disaster as the result of the innovation had not been thrown away on the city legislators. The limits of speed specified in the ordinance were also indicative of the spirit of the times. East of Twelfth street no car was to run faster than six miles an hour; between Twelfth street and Gar- rison avenue a speed of seven miles was per- mitted, and west of Garrison avenue eight miles was allowed. These speed regulations would have required the use of three different cables, with drums at Twelfth street and also Garrison avenue; but before the road was opened wise counsels prevailed, and a more reasonable uni- form speed-limit was made. Those who resided in the city at the time will remember with great interest the construction of this road. It was built in the most substantial manner then possible, but by a slow, tedious and expensive process, without the use of the devices of more recent years which had made cable-track laying far more speedy and prac- ticable. As an event typical of the times, the laying of the first cable in the conduit is worth mentioning. The local papers devoted to the work a large amount of space, and considering the immense crowds which witnessed the work, the event was certainly one of more than ordi- nary interest. The cable was placed in position late in the winter of 1885-86, and the first cable train was run at the commencement of spring following. The excitement which the experi- ment created will ever be remembered. On the first Sunday of the road's operation it beat the record in the matter of jDassenger hauling, 74 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. although its equipment was by no means com- plete. The popularity of the road was so great that even after the novelty wore off, people will- ingly walked four or five blocks out of their way to ride in the cars, and a career of extra- ordinary prosperity appeared to be certain. The "impossible" route added to the difficulties of running" the road, but although a great many passengers were thrown into each other's laps, and some few were thrown on to the sidewalk at the sharjDest curves, these little drawbacks did not materially injure the road's traffic receipts. The most objectionable and dangerous point was at Grand avenue and Morgan street, where a double curve seemed to defy the efforts of the engineers to devise means to keep the cars on the track. This trouble was finally obviated by the purchase of the property at the southeast corner, and the moving several feet south of the house situated upon it, so as to enable the track to be relaid without a perceptible curve at all. The road's progress was also interfered with by a calamitous fire, which destroyed its entire equipment before it had been in operation more than a year. Horse cars were run for a short time, and finally a fresh supply of cars was ob- tained and traffic was resumed. The road was finally sold, at a handsome profit to the original promoters, and it passed into the control of Bos- ton capitalists. Sufficient money was not spent to keep up the track, and the competition of adjoining roads which in the meantime had been equipped with cable power, reduced the earning capacity of the pioneer rapid transit road of St. Louis to such an extent that it passed into the hands of a receiver. About four years ago Messrs. Charles H. Turner, S. M. Kennard, Clark H. Sampson and other capitalists were convinced of the possibility of reconstructing the road with electricity and making it pay hand- somely. They secured a controlling interest in the corporation, reorganized it as the St. Louis & Suburban Railroad, and at once decided upon the gigantic enterprise of equipping the road its entire length with electricity. The narrow- gauge suburban service was exceedingly unsat- isfactory and entirely inadequate, and the reor- ganizers determined to run a double-track electric road as far as the city limits and a sin- gle-track electric road from that point to Floris- sant, the tracks to be doubled on the county section as soon as the traffic justified the outlay. The necessary legisla- THB FIRST COUNTY . , . ; '^^ , tion was obtained, and the ELECTRIC ROAD. . , ^ ,. ^ . long and tedious task com- menced. Electric cars were run as an extension to the cable service in 18i)l, and in 1892 the great work was completed and a through service of electric cars established between Sixth and Lo- cust streets and the city limits at Wells Station, with an excellent county extension to Normandy and Florissant. This road is now the longest electric road in the world operated from one power-house, and the enormous increase in its receipts since the change of motive power has more than justified the enterprise and anticipa- tions of the reorganizers. The history of this road has been traced at some length because of its exceptional influence on the city's rapid transit facilities and also on its general growth. Before leaving the sul^ject, it is of interest to add that in addition to being the longest electric road o^Derated from one power-house, it was the road selected by the government for the experiment of street railroad postal cars. The experiment has proved a per- fect success, and now three trips are made daily, with sub-postoffices established along the line of route. The delivery of mail is expedited very largely by the change, and national interest has been attracted by the experiment, which, however, can hardly be regarded as an experi- ment now. The company already transacts a freight and express business west of Vandeventer avenue, and at an early date this service will be extended down-town. But we are somewhat anticipating history. The railroad companies which had oj^posed the cable franchise found their worst fears fulfilled, and the traffic returns of parallel lines in 188G showed the necessity of prompt action. During the year nearly every road of importance ob- tained the right to change its motive power, and the year 1887 saw much work done. Among RAPID TRANSIT AND ITS INFL UENCES. 75 the first roads to lay cable, and the first to re- construct, was the Olive street branch of the Missouri, which cabled its tracks right out to Forest Park, instead of having its western ter- minus at Grand avenue, as hitherto. The re- construction was a lengthy piece of work, but it was duly accomplished, and subsequently both the other sections of this system have been equipped as electric roads. This Missouri sys- tem alone now carries half a million passengers a month, and its business is constantly increasing. It has just erected a magnificent depot and pavilion close to the Blair statue in Forest Park for the convenience of the thousands of passengers its cars haul daily, and the popular- ity of the route will be still greater when this building is ready for use. There are few street railroad lines in the country which run so nearly in a straight line, and which traverse such a thickly settled and highly improved territory. Starting from Fourth and Olive, close to the Merchants' Exchange, and some of the finest office-buildings in the city, it runs directly west up Olive street, passing the Federal building and the Exposition, and continuing on its western course, within a block a great portion of the way of the finest boulevard and drive-way in St. Louis. Although this was one of the first cable railroads constructed in St. Louis, it is also the most modern in character, and the most suc- cessful in operation. No money was spared in building the road, which is kept in the highest state of repair, with a power-house of unlimited capacity, and a determination on the part of the management to provide accommodation as nearly perfect as possible. The cars, those used both for summer and winter, are excellently uphol- stered, and are kept scrupulously clean, while the trains run at such frequent intervals that people who are in a hurry use them even if it compels a walk of a few extra blocks. The serv- ice is so excellent in every respect that, al- though electricity has entirely supplanted the cable in the estimation of the people, there is an exception in this instance, and the Olive street road is as much liked as the best electric road in the city. RAPID TRANSIT TO THE The Missotiri Company has also an electric road running in a straight line to PRINCIPAL PARKS. p^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^.^ ^^^^^ formerly known as the Forest Park & Laclede Railroad, starts from the southern front of the court-house, and runs up Market and Chestnut streets, reaching the park by the former thor- oughfare, some few blocks south of the cable terminus. It is also the only street railroad corporation in St. Louis running to both Forest Park and Tower Grove Park, the two most pop- ular recreation and breathing spots in the city. Tower Grove Park is reached by the Missouri Company's electric road, which starts from Fourth and Market and runs by a very direct route to Shaw's Garden, being in fact the only railroad which carries passengers right to the gates of the great botanical garden which has made St. Louis popular and famous among students of natural beauty everywhere. The western ter- minus of this road is at the northern entrance to Tower Grove Park, and its passengers thus have the advantage of reaching both the garden and the parks without change of cars or delay of any kind. Simultaneously with the cabling of the Olive street road, the Citizens' Railroad was changed to cable. Nor was this all. Easton avenue be- tween Prairie avenue and King's Highway was neither improved nor graded, and the company proposed as a matter of course to lay its con- duits only as far as city improvements made it possible. The property owners, however, clubbed together and had the street graded to King's Highway. The company was a party to the transaction, made King's Highway its west- ern cable terminus, and thereby doubled and trebled the value of property along the avenue. The compan}'s branch to the Fair Grounds was also cabled, but in 18113 the conduit was removed and electric power substituted; another tribute to the conquering tendency of the latest of modern inventions. Under the same manage- ment as the Citizens' are the Cass Avenue, Northern Central and Union lines, to all of which reference has already been made, and all 76 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. of which were equipped with electricity during 1892. The combined system serves the north- west portion of the city very thoroughly, and hauls immense numbers of passengers to the Fair Grounds and races. One of the most indispensable, and, as we have seen, one of the very oldest roads in the city is the Broadway. Unlike the other roads referred to, which run more or less east and west, this road runs from north to south, connecting the manufacturing section of North St. Louis with the manufacturing and brewing section of South St. Louis, and passing through not only the business section of the city, but also through some of its most thickly settled residence wards. Although before this road was reconstructed for rapid transit, electric roads had established their popularity, the immense number of trains to be run over the track made the management prefer a cable, which was laid during the years 1889 and 1890. The cabling of the road was a ver>' costly undertaking, but the work was done in the most efficient manner possible, and the road is a model in every respect. Visitors to St. Louis who desire to visit the new Merchants' bridge, the old and the new water-works, the cemeteries, all in the northern section of the city, find the Broadway cable convenient for the purpose; while it is also a popular route to the great breweries of the south end. The Lindell, or Washington avenue, Railroad was among the first to feel the influence of rapid transit competition, as the new cable road paral- leled its line within a few blocks almost its entire length. Experiments were tried in 1887 with a storage battery electric car, which, how- ever, was not a success. Shortly afterwards I\Ir. George D. Capen and other local capitalists secured control of the road, and having unlimited faith in the future of St. Louis proceeded at once to map out what looked like a daring scheme, not only of reconstruction, but also of extension. Electric power was selected as the motor, and the main line track was extended on Finney avenue as far west as Ta\-lor. From this point two branches were constructed, one running on Uelmar boulevard to DeBaliviere avenue and INTRODUCTION OF THE TRANSFER SYSTEM. then south into Forest Park, where a magnifi- cent pavilion has been constructed providing a handsome ornament to the park, and being of immense convenience to passengers visiting the city's great breathing ground and pleasure resort. The other branch was constructed out west on Page boulevard, piercing a district hitherto a stranger to street railroad facilities of any kind. The enterprise of the road did not stop at this point. Recognizing that St. Louis was in need of north and south railroads, or cross-town lines, the management obtained municipal legis- lation and proceeded to construct, some three years ago, the Vandeventer avenue line, which connects the Fair Grounds with the Mill Creek Valley tracks. The opening of this road was a matter of spe- cial interest to St. Louis, because for the first time it introduced into the city on a comprehensive scale a system of transfers, whereby a passenger can make a continuous journey by more than one car without paying an additional fare. Dur- ing 1893 the company has also completed and opened a street railroad on Ta}'lor avenue from its junction with Finney into the northwestern wards, with the intention of extending it at an early date to the cemeteries on the north and the railroad tracks on the south. Also, during 1893, it has opened a new road passing the new Union Station, crossing the Eighteenth street bridge and providing facilities for residents in the Compton Hill district. It also has a second road to F'orest Park via Chouteau avenue, and has altogether one of the most comprehensive and extensive street railroad S},-stems in the United States. Its power-house is one of the largest in the world, and it has also ex- cited the interest of street railroad men everj-- where b}- its patented vestibule street car, which affords easy ingress and egress through a vesti- bule in the center of what is really a combina- tion of two full-sized electric cars. No returns are available for the entire Lindell system. During the third quarter of 1893 it carried nearly 4,000,000 passengers, and its completed RAPID TRANSIT AND ITS INFLUENCES. 77 system is probably canning at least 1,500,000 passengers inoiitlily. Another road which has obtained running powers past the new Union Station is the Union Depot Company, which now embraces not only the numerous roads running into the southern wards, but also the Mound City Railroad and the Benton & Bellefontaine Railroad. This gi- gantic system of railroads, with upwards of sixty miles of electric track, thus runs from the extreme south of the city to the cemeteries in the extreme northwest, with branches in almost every direction, and a system of transfers which enables passengers to travel right through and across the city for one fare. Its latest extension is now nearly completed. It intersects the highest ground in Carondelet, and affords un- limited facilities for transportation. No road has a more interesting history than this great system and the parts which help to make up the whole. In its early days all the hardships of bobtail bars and insufficient service were felt, but during the last few years these comj^laints have all been rendered unnecessary, and the equipment is now excellent. The power-house from which these different branches are oper- ated is of exceptional size, and its capacity is ta.xed to the uttermost. By its absorption of the Mound City and Benton «& Bellefontaine roads, the company also acquired two other large power-houses. The business transacted by the roads in this system is nearly, if not quite, 20,000,000 passengers jDer annmn. The People's Rail- road, originally con- structed to Lafayette Park, was cabled some three years ago and extended along Grand avenue to Tower Grove Park. Now an electric road is being constructed along Grand avenue, connecting the various roads which run on or across that thoroughfare, and providing a third parallel cross-town road of great usefulness. At the present time there are in the city 240 miles of street railway in actual operation, and 43 more in course of construction. In other words, early in 1894 there will be about oitO miles of A COMPARISON BETWEEN THE ROADS OF OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. street railroads in operation, as compared with less than 120 miles in 1882. This wonderful increase in itself is a striking tribute to the growth and importance and wealth of New St. Louis, and it would be so if the question of mileage alone were considered. But the in- crease in value has been far greater than the increase in mileage, because, while in 1882 the tracks were laid as cheaply as possible, and the motive power was horses and mules, the roads in 1893 are equipped in the most costly manner known, and the moti\-e power is more than two- thirds electricity, with about forty-three miles of cable road. The enterprise of the railroad magnates has been more than rewarded, for the traffic has in- creased in a most remarkable manner. In 1885, the last year of the horse-car reign, the number of passengers carried by the St. Louis street rail- roads was a trifle in excess of 41,000,000. Esti- mating population at this stage at 410,000, each inhabitant of the city, on an average, rode in a street car a hundred times during the year. In 1891 the number of passengers carried had in- creased about 100 per cent, and in 1892 the num- ber of passengers carried amounted to 9 1,500, 000. In other words, the average number of rides taken by every inhabitant of St. Louis was about 200 during the year. The returns for 1893 are not yet complete, but they will cer- tainly approximate 100,000,000 for the year. The total for the first si.x months was more than 4.S, 000,000, and the following table gives the traffic for the quarter ending October 1: Miles Operated October 1. Xiimber of Trijjs Made. Number of Fares Collected. Union Depot Lindell Missouri St. Louis Citizens' Cass Avenue St. Ivouis & Suljiirbau. Southern People's Jefferson Avenue Baden 55 41 24 20 ]5 27 19 15 10 3 3 158,367 323.242 2!}7,600 211,440 185,246 150,890 33,803 88,560 5S,0U4 23,116 5,720 4,612,404 3,845,936 3,712,257 3,067,721 2,213,793 2,121,410 2,057,175 1,520,307 1,260,678 505,413 127,940 This shows a total of more than 25,000,000 passengers carried during the c]uarter. 78 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. „ _ It only needs a g-lance at the RAPID TRANSIT . ^ , '^ , , City map to-day and the maps as published ten years ago, to THE CITY MAP. ^^^ j^^^^^ remarkable has been the influence of rapid transit on the building up of the city. Those visiting St. Louis during the years 1892 and 1893, after an absence from the city of eight or ten years, ha\-e been astounded at the changes effected. Specific reference has already been made to the effect of the cable con- struction on Easton avenue. This thoroughfare was little more than a country road ten years ago. The single-track street car line was laid on one side of the road, and the ser\ice was any- thing but satisfactory. There were a few stores on the street, but they were general country stores, without specialties in any line. To-day Easton avenue is one of the most important thoroughfares in the city. It forms part of the direct road from the Mississippi river at St. Eouis to the Missouri river at St. Charles, and, thanks to the influence of the cable, that portion of the St. Charles rock road which is now known as Easton avenue, is a busy thorough- fare, with hundreds of stores and private dwell- ings. Several attempts have been made to state in figures what benefit the cable road has been to Easton avenue, but sufficient data are not at hand to make any calculation approximately ac- curate. It is certain, however, that property which could not be sold at -$10 a foot before the reconstruction, now has buyers in abund- ance at $50, .$fiO and $70, ^vith higher prices for corners. Farther out on Easton a\'enue where property ten }-ears ago could be bought by the acre, $20, $25 and $30 a foot is now paid. The general equipment of the roads running due west with rapid transit facilities, and their extension beyond Grand a\-enue, has remodeled that section of the city which lies west of Van- deventer avenue and north of Forest Park. In the old days this exceptionally desirable prop- erty was inaccessible except to those who owned carriages. Even in 1885 there was no street car accommodation in the district named west of Vandeventer avenue. The enterprise of the St. Eouis & Suburban and Lindell Companies, as well as the cabling and extension of the 01i\e street line, has made this property as easy of access as it was formerly difficult. The result has been a complete transformation. The streets and boulevards between Vandeventer and Taylor avenues are all built up with costly improve- ments, including elegant mansions, while west of Taylor a\-enue the number of delightful home§ is constantl)' increasing. West of King's High- way, in old horse-car days, the territory was un- explored and unknown. There were several large country mansions with extensive grounds, but as a residence section for the masses it had yet to be born. Encouraged by the railroad companies, acre after acre has been covered with attracti\-e homes, the Cabanne and Chamberlain Park districts vying with any in the country for beauty and elegance. The conversion of the horse car lines running south and southwest has also transformed those sections of the city. It was formerly so difficult to get to Carondelet that most people living in St. Louis knew little or nothing concerning the beauties of this section of the cit>-. The high, healthy ground is now being built up with res- idences of all descriptions, and, thanks to the admirable street railroad facilities, the popula- tion is being increased at a surprising rate. In the northwest and the north, the street railroads have opened up several square miles of hitherto inaccessible property. The improvements are continuing, and, indeed, the good work of the rapid transit roads in this direction is yet in its infancy. In no respect does New St. Louis differ in appearance from Old St. Louis more than in its residences and residence sections, and the change has been brought about almost en- tirely by rapid transit. One more influ- ence of improved street railroad facili- CITV LIMITS. ^ • , , ties must be re- corded. The St. Louis & Suburban electric road, as already mentioned, runs as far into the couutv as Florissant, and all along the line of its route it has built up suburban districts. POSSIBILITY OF AN EXTENSION OF THE SOAfE AIDS TO PROGRESS. 79 Nominally, Normandy and Ramona are both in the county, but practically the)- are part of St. Louis. Powers have also been obtained to con- struct electric roads into various other sections of the county. A road has already been finished to Clayton, the county seat, and two other cor- porations have been formed to construct rail- roads, to be operated by electricity, through the strictly urban section of the county west and southwest of the city. As a result of this, it is proposed to, as early as possible, extend the city limits so as to take in Jefferson Barracks on the south, Kirkwood on the southwest, Clayton on the west and Ferguson on the northwest. The new limits as thus proposed would add an area to the city of about ;"> 1,200 acres, or eighty square miles. It would bring in all the suburban towns fostered by present and projected electric roads, including Ferguson, Woodland, Normandy, Jennings Heights, Ramona, College View, O' Fallon, Clayton, Rosedale, Kirkwood, Glendale, Webster, Luxemburg and Jefferson Barracks, and within the area named there is a population of nearly, if not more than, 50,000. The present financial condition of that portion of St. Louis county included in the limits named greatly simjDlifies the question of annexation. If the boundaries named above should be adopted the city would have an area of 89,9(52 acres, or about 140 square miles. It would add, at a low estimate, f25,000,000 immediately to the taxable values, yielding a revenue of about ,t!.')00,000. The proposed line has been drawn so as to continue along the high ground, and within fi\-e years much of the new territory would be the most desirable property in the city. The rapid transit to suburban localities is the best in the United States, and whether the territory is annexed or not it will practically be a part of the city within a short time. CHAPTER VII. SOME AIDS TO PROGRESS. THE VEILED PROPHET, AUTUMNAL FESTIVITIES ASSOCIATION, ILLUMINATIONS, EXPOSITION AND FAIR.-CONVENTIONS.-COMMERCIAL ORGANIZATIONS. y^^HE HISTORY OF CITIES, ancient and modern, fails to record a duplicate to the enterprise of New St. Louis in the matter of entertaining strangers and providing lavishly for their amusement. It was in 1878 that the Veiled Prophet commenced his series of annual visits to St. Louis, and from the first these visits have been made the basis of hospitality of the most lavish character. The mystery of the Veiled Prophet has been kept entire from the first, and although it is generally known that the enormous expense of the pageant and ball is borne by a secret organ- ization composed of the princi])al capitalists, manufacturers and merchants of St. Louis, their exact identity is a matter of .surmise, and the correctness of the guesses need not be discussed. Certain it is that the men who thought out and then raised the money to carry out the idea, have contributed nobly towards the city's re-birth and second growth, and that they have earned the good-will of all. The pass-word of the Veiled Prophet is, or should be, " unselfishness." The idea is a beautiful one, for it is borrowed from ancient or legendary history, and is de- signed to perpetuate the poetic story, which ought to be true if it isn't, that there used to exist a Veiled Prophet who was surrounded only by whole-souled men who gave up their lives to good works. Before the circle of followers 80 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. WHAT THE VEILED PROPHET was enlarged, tlie new-comer was compelled to look into a magic mirror which laid bare to the prophet's gaze his very thoughts and feel- ings. Hence the court was made up of gener- ous, open-hearted men, devoted to the service of their fellows. It is very much the same with the Veiled Prophet's Association. The members HAS DONE. subscribe freely to the ex- pense account, but do not take their reward by means of printed and advertised subscrip- tion lists; indeed, no man can be found who will admit having donated a single dollar to the annual pageants. Millions of visitors have come in to see the sixteen annual parades, and thousands have tripped the light fantastic toe at the grand balls. It seems a trifle debas- ing to try to reduce to a cash basis the benefit the city has derived from the visits and the festivities. In the first place, they have lifted St. Louis out of a rut and broken down that Chinese wall which was always thought to en- circle what was even then the metropolis of the Mississippi Valley. Then, they have made hundreds of thousands of people acquainted with the city, and have fostered tlie habit of annual visits to it. Both these influences have been of almost incalculable value; but when the prophet's power was used to raise New St. L,ouis out of the old city, the true force and \-alue of that power came to be appreciated. The part pla}-ed by the prophet in this work has already been discussed, and need not be enlarged upon here. The good work has continued year after year until in the fall of 18;»3 there seemed to be a feeling that the prophet had outlived his use- fulness, and that St. Louis was too important a city for the annual pageant. At first it was thought that this feeling was, if not general, at least extensive, and it was semi-officially an- nounced that the Veiled Prophet would appear no more. The outcry that followed showed that the sentiment was held only by the element, to be found in every city, which is much more ready to criticize than to invent or work, and it is now generally understood that the Veiled Prophet will appear next October, as usual. A detailed description of -the annual pageant would be impossible, nor is it practicable to de- scribe the annual balls at which the wealth and beauty, not only of St. Louis and the West, but also of the East, are represented. It is no ex- aggeration to say that thousands of society men and women look forward to the event with excitement for months before it takes place, nor is it too much to say that the annual ball is absolutely unique. Be)-ond this and a passing reference to the beauty of the invitations and programmes, nothing can be said here. More space must be devoted to the illumina- tions which have made St. Louis famous all over two continents. Some little work in street illumi- nation was done when the prophet first appeared, but it was not until 1882, the year so marked by changes from old to new, that St. Louis first illuminated its streets in a comprehensive manner. The sum of $20,000 was subscribed for the purpose, and the illumination committee of that year had a task of no small magnitude to overcome, for it had to originate as well as to perfect. So far as the United States was con- cerned, St. Louis was the pioneer in the matter of street illuminations, no other city having made an effort in the direction, and it became necessary to look to Europe for hints and ideas. Careful inquiry in Paris showed that in e\-en the gay French capital nothing had been attempted on anything approaching the scale determined upon in St. Louis, and even the much-talked-of illuminations of Brussels and Venice were ex- perimental and insignificant compared with the new western idea. In London, Japanese lan- terns and an occasional colored globe, constituted the idea of street beautification by night; and the St. Louisans who had crossed the Atlantic in search of information and designs returned with very little of the former and still less of the latter, the fact having been demonstrated that the ap- parently primitive efforts of the preceding year in St. Louis had excelled the best on record in the carnival cities of the Old World, besides having 1)cen entirely without precedent in those of the New. SOME AIDS TO PROGRESS. 81 STREET ILLUMINATIONS. It is fortunate for St. Louis, and also for the United States, that there was nothing found worth copying in the carnival cities of Europe, for the Carnival City of America proceeded at once to originate, and to spring at one bound into the lead as an entertaining city, achieving, even twelve years ago, a triumph it could have scarcelv hoped for had it followed in the wake of other cities instead of leading the way itself. Twenty thousand dollars having been subscribed in 1)^82, one hundred and fort\- skilled plumbers were engaged, and gas-pipes and arches were placed along and over the sidewalks and across the streets. Twenty-one thousand globes of different colors were purchased, and for the distance of about forty-four blocks in the business section everything was got in readiness for a magnificent display and for a dazzling show of many-shaded lights. The most sanguine expectations of the pro- moters of the enterprise were more than real- ized, for tens of thousands of spectators gazed with admiration on the display evening after evening, and hundreds of European tourists, who were attracted by the novelty and magni- tude of the undertaking, pronounced it the most gorgeous street spectacle they had ever wit- nessed, and so infinitely superior to the best Old World productions as to make anything in the nature of comparison out of the question. A well-known official of the Crystal Palace at Syd- enham, near London, England, was among the visitors who enjoyed the first grand street illu- mination the world had ever seen, and his ver- dict was that not even in the Crystal Palace grounds, nor in the gardens at South Kensing- ton, had any approach towards such magnificence been made. Other visitors of equal experience endorsed this expression of approval, and no one has yet been found to express a contrary opin- ion. In 1883 the illuminations were repeated, and the area covered being increased several blocks; and in the two following years the work of improvement went steadily on. Inl88(),the year of the Knights Templars Conclave at St. Louis, upwards of $22, ()()() was collected and ex- THE AUTUMNAL FESTIVITIES ASSOCIATION. pended in illuminations, which were made more dazzling than ever by the free use of electric lights. In 1887 the gathering of the Grand Army, followed by the visit of President and Mrs. Cleveland, stimulated St. Louisans to still greater efforts; the subscription exceeded $2(i,000, and the streets were rendered more daz- zling than ever. This feature was continued, and the plan of illumination gradually improved until the end of the eighties, when the impression spread that the illumination had served its purpose, and for two years this feature was omitted. The re- sult was something like what happens to a bus- iness man who, having achieved a reputation by advertising, suddenly comes to the conclusion that he is spending too much money and shuts down on advertising expense. Such a man gen- erally resumes advertising quickly on a more lib- eral scale than ever. So did St. Louis. In 1891 a mass-meet- ing was held, which is probably without a par- allel in the world's his- tory. It was called by the proclamation of the Veiled Prophet. The object of the meeting was to raise $1,000,000 to be expended during the World's Fair period for the general good of the city. Mr. Samuel M. Kennard presided at the meeting, and the attendance was large and rep- resentative. Indeed, the element which had succeeded in establishing New St. Louis was present in full force, although there were plenty of old men for counsel, as well as young men for war. The objects in view were largely three-fold. One, which ma)' be described as the immediate outward and visible sign of the pro- posed work, took the shape of festivities for the current and two following years of a character never before attempted in St. Louis, the idea be- ing to celebrate the Columbian quadro-centenary on the streets of St. Louis. The second object of the proposed association was to secure the erec- tion of a new fire-proof hotel to cost not less than $1,000, 000, and the proposed association was authorized to offer a bonus for this purpose. It was also designed to spend about one-third oi 82 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. the money raised in advertising St. Louis in a dignified manner, and thus enlightening the world as to the progress made by the city since it de- cided to throw off all allegiance to tradition and to map out for itself a new career as the future metropolis of the mid-continent. The success of the meeting was remarkable. Just as, more than forty years ago, a few public- spirited St. Louisans met together and made the construction of a railroad into the city a possi- bility, so did a larger number of large and small capitalists in Alay, LSDl, insure the success of an enterprise at least as important and daring. It was not expected that the million dollars would be raised in the room, but a very splendid beginning was made. Two subscriptions, each for $10,000, Avere announced, followed b\- others of $7, .500, $5,000 and smaller sums. A spirit of enthusiasm was spread o\'er the meeting, which soon extended over the city and guaranteed the success of the movement. Before the meeting adjourned the St. Louis Autumnal Festivities Association was formed, with the following offi- cers: President, S. RL Kennard; first vice-presi- dent, E. O. Stanard; second vice-jjresident, F. A. Wann; third vice-president, John S. Moflfitt; fourth vice-president, Rolla Wells; fifth vice-president, Clark A. Sampson; secretary, Frank Gaiennie; treasurer. Walker Hill; execu- tive committee, A. D. Brown, R. P. Tansey, D. D. Walker, J. C. Wilkinson, S. C. Bunn, Jacob Furth, W. T. Haydock, M. C. Wetmore, W. F. Nolker, George E. Leighton, T. B. Boyd, Charles M. Hays, Goodman King, C. D. Mc- Clure, IM. Bernheimer, T. K. Niedringhaus, H. J. Meyer, Jonathan Rice, August Gehner, J. J. Kreher, C. H. Turner, L. D. Kingsland, H. C. Townsend, R. ]\L Scruggs, Festus J. Wade, Jerome Hill, A. T. Kelley, George D. Barnard, D. S. Holmes, W. H. Woodward, Patrick McGrath, J. Specht, W. H. Thompson and George M. W^right. Six committees were formed to deal respect- ively with finance, advertising, transportation, programme, illumination and hotel. Mr. John S. Mofiitt, who had been at the head of most of the collecting funds for illuminations in prior years, was appointed chairman of the finance committee, which at once proceeded to attempt the so-called impossible task of raising enough money to carry out the plans of the promoters of the organization. Every' professional and mercantile interest in the city was classified and nearly a hundred sub-committees were appointed to assist in obtaining subscriptions. Extraordi- nary success followed the efforts. A spirit of rivalry of the most friendly character was estab- lished between the different trades and profes- sions, and not to subscribe to the fund was to form an exception to a remarkably general rule. That the Old St. Louis spirit was well-nigh dead was proved by the fact that the collectors only met with four rebuffs during their entire work. A hundred thousand dollars was secured the first week, and the work went on through- out the summer in the most satisfactory manner. Not only did the capitalists and employ-ers of labor subscribe freely, but the laborers them- selves came forward and contributed. Nearly every member of the police force and of the fire department, in addition to hundreds of traveling men and clerks, joined the procession, and the city acquired a proprietary interest in the asso- ciation which it could not have done had the money been raised from the few instead of the many. A generation hence the list of subscribers to the Autumnal Festivities Association will be looked upon as a roll of honor, for wdiile it may be true that The evil that rneu do lives after them, The good is oft interred with their bones, this cannot be said to be the case with or- ganizations of what are sometimes incorrectly described as a " boom " order. Hence, wdiile the good influences of the festi\'ities association are manifest to-day, they will be ten times more so twenty and fifty years hence, when much of the good seed sown during the last two and a half }-ears will have borne fruit a hundred and a thousand-fold. The work of collection was con- tinued during 18112, but the financial uneasiness in l scriptions. Fortunately, the remarkable manner in which St. Louis weathered the storm enabled SOME AIDS TO PROGRESS. 83 the association to collect almost every dollar promised it, and a total of more than $(500,000 was received, including as cash the large snms generously donated by the local newspapers for advertising purposes. Mr. J. C. Wilkinson became chairman of the illumination committee, which pro\-ided for St. lyouis during the years 18!t2 and 1893 the most magnificent street illuminations ever attempted in this or any other city. Space prevents a de- tailed description of these illuminations. More than 70,000 lights, half electric and half gas, were used for the purpose, and the down-town streets were made a veritable blaze of light. The electrical panorama which were seen on the widest streets, and at the most conspicuous points, excited the admiration of the hundreds of thousands of visitors who were attracted to the cit3' by them. Mr. Wilkinson earned the praise of every one b}^ the ingenuity of the designs and by the determined manner in which he in- sisted upon novelties being produced in the face of technical objections and forecasts of certain failure. Mr. Goodman King was ajDpoiuted chairman of the advertising committee, the name of which was changed to the Bureau of Information in consequence of the vast scope of its operations. As the writer of "Old and New St. Louis " is the secretary of this bureau, Mr. Julian Ralph, whose able and comprehensive article in Hai-pcr'' s New Moiif/ilv has already been referred to more than once, will be quoted as to its work and operations: " The bureau," says Mr. Ralph, "has offices in St. Louis, and has also arranged to open others in London and other cities in pursuit of a systematic effort to advertise the commercial, social and sanitary ad- vantageswhich St. Louis possesses. It may cause a smile to read that Chairman King and Secretary Cox report, in a circular now before me, what work the Bureau of Information has done ' to correct any false impressions which ha\e been created by the too great modesty of St. Louis- aus in the past.' But they are right, for, as compared with its rival, St. Louis possessed THE BUREAU OF INFORMATION. that defect, and the frank admission of such a hated fault shows how far removed and reformed from retarding bashfulness that city has since become. The bureau reports that it is causing the publication of half-page advertisements of St. Louis, precisely as if it were a business or a patent medicine, in sixty-two papers,* circulat- ing more than a million copies; that it has obtained reading notices in all these dailies; that ' articles on St. Louis as a manufacturing and commercial metropolis and as a carnival cit)-' are sent out every da>-; that arrangements are being made for a weekly mail letter to 500 southern and western journals, and that once or twice a week news items are sent to the principal dailies of the whole countrv. It was found that St. Louis was not fairlv treated in the weekly trade reports published generallv throughout the country, and this source of com- plaint has been removed. Invading the camp of the arch-enemy — Chicago — the bureau has caused a handsome ' Guide to Chicago ' to add to its title the words, ' And St. Louis, the Car- nival City of America.' It is also getting up a rich and notable book to be called ' vSt. Louis Through a Camera ' for circulation among all English-speaking peoples. The local service for the press telegraphic agencies has been greatly improved, ' and the efforts of the bureau to increase the number and extent of the notices of St. Louis in the daily papers throughout the United States have continued to prove success- hil," .so that 'instead of St. Louis being ignored or referred to in a very casual manner, it is now recognized as fully as any other large city in America.' ' ' I have described the operations of this asso- ciation and its most active bureau at some length because they exhibit the farthest ex- treme yet reached in the development of the most extraordinary phase of western enterprise. There we see a city managed by its people as a wide-awake modern merchant looks after his *Tliis was comparatively early iu the bureau's issue. It subsequently made use of the columns of more than 4,000 American newspapers, periodicals and magazines, and issued 60,000 copies of the book spoken of in this ar- ticle as being " got up." 84 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. THE NEW PLANTERS' HOUSE. business. It is advertised and ' written up ' and pushed upon the attention of the world, with all its good features clearly and proudly set forth. There is boasting in the process, but it is always based upon actual merit, for St. L,ouis is an old and proud city, and there is no begging at all. The methods are distinctly legitimate, and the work accomplished is hard work paid for by hard cash. It is considered a shrewd invest- ment of energy and capital, and not a specula- tion. If we in the eastern cities, who are said to be ' fossilized,' are not inclined to imitate such a remarkable example of enterprise, we cannot help admiring the concord and the hearty local pride from which it springs." Another committee which has achieved re- markable success is the hotel committee, of which Mr. M. C. Wetmore is chairman. Authorized to offer a bonus of $100,000 for the erection of a fire-proof hotel on approved plans and on an acceptable site, at a cost of not less than $1,000, 000, it proceeded at once to make its mission known and to invite offers from corporations and capitalists. Vari- ous propositions were made, but no actual advance was made until a number of local capi- talists, including several members of the asso- ciation, joined together, purchased the old Planters' House, removed the old structure and commenced the erection of a fire-proof hotel, which is now nearly completed and which can be described as one of the finest hotels in America, with an unlimited number of new ideas and improvements in it. One of the great events of 1894 will be the opening of this mag- nificent hostelry, which will cost by the time it is ready for opening nearly $2,000,000. It bears as little resemblance to the old Planters' House as New St. Louis does to Old St. Louis, and, indeed, the two buildings may well be taken as types of the correct thing forty years ago and now. The hotel fronts on Fourth street, and is bounded by Pine and Chestnut streets. It is ten full stories high, and its front is de- signed in the form of an inverted E, with two recessed courts so arranged that of the 400 apartments nearly every one is a front room. The st>le of internal decorations is not finally settled, but it will be as fine as money can pro- cure; and the hotel will be a source of admira- tion not only in St. Louis, but through the entire West. Various names were suggested for the hotel when it was designed and while it was in course of erection. It has, however, been called, by general consent, the New Plant- ers' House, a name which it will probably re- tain, although it was at one time proposed to call it the Columbian Hotel, a name which would have been very appropriate and which would have served as a perpetual reminder of the date of the building's erection. This detail, however, is not of such great importance as the hotel itself, and, having got this latter, St. Louis is not worrying itself greatly over the minor question. The Autumnal Festivities Association was formed for three seasons, those of "Jl, '92 and '93, and while these pages are in press it is practically winding up its operation and termi- nating its work. In some shape or other it will, however, be perpetuated; for an associa- tion of a permanent character will certainly be formed during 1894 to carry on the work inau- gurated by the festivities association and to so large an extent successfully accomplished. One exceptionally useful influence of the asso- ciation will be found in the increased facilities it has provided for the accommodation of dele- gates to conventions. St. Louis has earned' the title of the Carnival City of America in conse- quence of the lavish nature of its festivities and entertainments, and it has also long been known as the City of Conventions, because its phenom- enal hospitality and its exceptional railroad facil- ities ha\'e made it the most popular city in the country for the holding of con\-entions, political, social and commercial. As long ago as 18(57 a River Convention, with delegates from over twenty States and Territories, convened in the old Mercantile Library Hall, which was one of the largest public meeting places in the West. The convention laid the foundation for many im- provements which the Federal goxerumeut has SOME AIDS TO PROGRESS. 85 THE GREAT CONVENTION YEARS. since carried out on the Mississippi river. Rail- road conventions of great importance, but less national in character, had been held before, but this gathering excited almost universal atten- tion. In the winter of 1872 a National Com- mercial Convention was held. In 1875 a Na- tional Railroads Convention was held, and many measures of importance decided upon. The un- varying success of the local entertainment com- mittees in making delegates comfortable resulted in a strong effort being made to secure the hold- ing of the Democratic Nominating Convention in St. Louis in 187(3, and there was a general feeling of satisfaction when the telegraphic news announced that the Democrats proposed to nom- inate the next President of the United States here. The convention was held, and was a marked success, as was also the great River Convention of 1881. During the eighties conventions followed each other in rapid succession. In 1885 a Cattle Convention of great importance was held, and 1886 and 1887 were the banner years of St. Louis in the matter of conventions. In the former year the physicians, photograph- ers and butchers of the United States met suc- cessively in annual convention in the Exposition Hall, and enjoyed not only satisfactory and well- attended business meetings, but a glorious time of recreation as well, the citizens never tiring of subscribing to entertainment firnds. The con- vention boom of 188G culminated in the Knights Templar Triennial Conclave, during which car- nival reigned supreme. An immediate outcome of the success of the 1886 convention season was the selection of St. Louis for the Grand Army Reunion in 1887. This was followed by a visit from President and Mrs. Cleveland, whose wel- come was one they will never forget. The fes- tivities were on a high order, and attracted enormous crowds. In 1888 the Democratic party held its Nominating Convention in the Ex- position Building, where the National Saenger- bund also met. Passing over several important gatherings, mention may be made of the grand Odd Fellows' Convention in 1891, which was a success beyond expectation. In 1892 the People's party held its organizing conference in the city, and during the same year an important Nicaragua Canal Convention was held. In 189;} the National Electric Light Association held its convention in the city, and the Exposition was besieged with applications for standing room to hear Nicola Tesla describe his triumphs over the mysteries of electricity. The furniture manufacturers, the saddlers, the florists, and the builders, as well as many other commercial organizations, met in convention in the city during the year, as did also an important monetary and trade convention of the Western States. During the fall the Autumnal Festivities Association also enter- tained the foreign commissioners to the World's Fair, and other delegations of importance were seen here. A history of St. Louis and its conventions alone could be written and provide material for a large volume. All that has been attempted is to show how thoroughly St. Louis is entitled to the name " Convention City," and how admira- bly it has learnt its lesson as to how to enter- tain. • St. IrOuis holds the record of ten consecutive annual expositions, each of which has more than paid its own expenses. It had long been accepted as a proved fact that no city could maintain an exposition year after year successfully. Even London, by far the largest city in the world, and the first city in which an international exposition was ever held, has failed in more than one attempt to maintain a success- ful annual display of manufactured and artistic goods; and in nearly every large city in this country an exposition building, diverted from its original use to manufacturing or store-room purposes, stands out in bold relief in silent testi- mony to another failure. But in all the bright vocabulary of St. Louis, is no such word as "fail," and the Exposition has proved a success every year since it was first opened, namely, in 1884. In 1883 a number of gentlemen met at THE TEN-TIMES SUCCESSFUL EXPOSITION. 86 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. the ^Mercantile Club, and after talking over the possibility of erecting an exposition building and holding an annual exposition, decided to ignore the diiificulties and make the attempt. The en- tire funds for the work were raised locally, and although the bulk of the money was subscribed in the form of stock, it is only just to the original investors to state that they had little or no hope of return, and were actuated more by a spirit of local pride and enthusiasm than a desire to ob- tain a good investment. The nominal cost of the Exposition Building, which was built during the years 1883-84 on a six-acre site on Olive and St. Charles streets, between Thirteenth and Fourteenth streets, was $750,000, but so much money has been spent in perfecting the structure that $1,000,000 should be named as the ap- proximate actual cost. The building is too well known to all St. Louis people to need a detailed description. The large music hall has 3,507 numbered seats, and on special occasions will accommodate twice as many people. The space intended for general displays is very large and admirably arranged, and from the first the E.x- position was a sticcess. It was opened in September, 1884, and during the season, which lasted six weeks, over 500,000 people passed through the turnstiles. Every year it has repeated its triumph, and nearly 6,000,000 people have paid admission fee since the first opening. For several years Patrick Sarsfield Gilmore and his famous band fur- nished the music every season. In 1892 Col. Gilmore commenced the season with his band of 100 pieces, and just as he was enjoying the tri- timph of his life, that life ended with painful suddenness and the Exposition suffered severely in consequence. In 1893 John Phillip Sousa commenced a three-years' engagement with his unrivaled band, and during the season Madame Scalchi and other artists of international repute assisted in the concerts. The attendance in 1893 far exceeded expectations. It had been feared that the competition of the World's Fair, added to the general financial depression, would have resulted in a serious falling off in attend- ance, and the loss on the season was debated very freely by those to whom ignorance is never bliss, but rather the reverse: Long before the close of the season it became evident that there would be a handsome surplus, and when the season closed there remained a profit consider- ably in excess of $25,000 — a wonderful achieve- ment when the exceptional difficulties of the year are taken into account. Twenty years hence the work of the E.xposition management will be appreciated much more highly than it is to-day, but even now it is generally realized that the men who have made the Exposition a suc- cess and who have enabled the entire bonded indebtedness to be paid off, deserve the thanks of the entire city. The first president of the Exposition was Mr. Sam. M. Kennard, who bore the burden and heat of the day for nine years and then insisted on being allowed to retire. He was succeeded by Gov. E. O. Stanard, who gave to the duties of the office the careful attention which has marked his honored career. He in turn was succeeded late in 1893 by Mr. T. B. Boyd. Too much credit cannot be given to General Manager Frank Gaieunie, whose success in 1893 must be regarded as phe- nomenal and by whose efforts some of the choic- est exhibits at the World's Fair have been secured for the local display of 1894 and 1895. This promises quite a change in the appearance of the Exposition next year; and in view of the enterprise of the management, there seems no reason to doubt that the St. Louis Exposition will continue year after year with unabated triumph. Although not what may be termed a New St. Louis institution, the St. Louis Agricultural and Mechanical Association deserves credit for the 3'eoman service it has rendered year after year. At one time the St. Louis Fair was one of the greatest events in the West, and although neither the city or country fair is the attraction it once was, the St. Louis Fair continues the greatest thing of its kind in the world. The build- ing of the new Jockey Club House, and the erection and opening of the new grand stand are more strictly of the newer order of things, and some very excellent racing has been seen in SOM/-: AIDS TO PROGRESS. St. Louis. The Veiled Prophet has assisted the institution in a variety of ways, and has timed his visits so as to make them come in Fair week, or the first complete week of October. The opening of the finest base-ball park in America in 1893 serves as a reminder of the fame St. Louis base-ball players have obtained. Although not now world's champions the "Browns" are still great ball plavers, and a third world's championship flag will in the near future float over Sportsman's Park. jMore strictly commer- TRAFFIC COMMISSION . , , cial than these agencies are the TrafBc Commis- SPANISH CLUB. ^-^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ Spanish Club, already referred to. The Traffic Commis- sion, as at present organized, is a most useful body, and it has done work for St. Louis com- merce which it would have taken many years to accomplish by indi\-idual effort. It has insisted upon justice to the city in the matter of freight rates, and has succeeded in adjusting an im- mense number of irregularities and discrimina- tions against this city. By its aid hundreds of miles of territory have been added to the district easily accessible to St. Louis trade, and it is still continuing its good work in a variety of ways. The commission has permanent offices in the Equitable Building, and is under the active management of Traffic Commissioner Osgood, a railroad man of unlimited experience and marked ability. The work of the Spanish Club has already been enlarged upon. It is an institution which has somewhat hid its light under a bushel in the past, and although it has increased railroad and river connection between St. Louis and Mexico, secured reduction in rates amounting to quite a substantial percentage, and more than doubled the trade between Mississippi and Spanish-American points, but a comparatively few people appreciate the extent of its work and its triumphs. The club has now handsome quarters in the Columbia Building. Its presi- dent is Mr. L. D. Kingsland, and its secretary Mr. S. L. Biggers, both of whom have traveled ex- tensively through Spanish-speaking countries. The assistant and acting secretary is Mr. Ber- nard Mackey, for many years in the consular service. The Citizens' Smoke Abatement Association is another organization designed to aid the trade as well as the salubrity of St. Louis. Nearly all the coal used for manufacturing purposes in St. Louis is bituminous, and the quantity of smoke sent out by the countless chimneys is very destructive to stocks of merchandise, in addition to being objectionable from both the standpoints of health and comfort. As the re- sult of prolonged agitation, the Citizens' Smoke Abatement Association was formed some two years ago. It has succeeded in obtaining legis- lation against the emission of smoke. An im- mense number of boiler-jDlant owners have co- operated with the association and abated the smoke without waiting for legal proceedings. Those who failed to fall in with the procession are now being proceeded against in the courts, and although in a manufacturing city like St. Louis there will always be a certain amount of smoke, the smoke nuisance will be so far re- duced as to be practically abated. During the last few months the Merchants' Ex- change has purchased the building, a portion of which it has occupied for several years. The Exchange is the successor of one of the oldest commercial institutions of the West. In 1886 a meeting of merchants and traders was held and the St. Louis Chamber of Commerce established. It did not resemble in any way our present Merchants' Exchange, being rather a large market and commission house, with arrangements for arbitration in dis- putes. In 1.S47 ground was purchased at the corner of Third and Chestnut streets for the purpose of erecting an exchange building, and in 1.S49 the Merchants' Exchange was estab- lished and carried on more or less in connection with the Chamber of Commerce. The Millers' Convention was formed shortly afterwards; and the Millers' Exchange, established at Nos. 9 and 11 Locust street, was the first exchange in the United States established for the purpose of THE MERCHANTS' EXCHANGE. 88 OLD AXD NEW ST. LOUIS. bringing together buyers and sellers of grain. In 1855 a movement was started which resulted in the erection of the Exchange Hall, on Main street, which for many years was the great cen- ter of trade in the city. During the war political differences led to the organization of the Union Merchants' Exchange, a name which was re- tained until 1X75, when it was changed to the Merchants' Exchange of St. Louis, and all the organizations were practically amalgamated. In 1874 the corner-stone was laid for the present Chamber of Commerce, which still continues to be one of the finest exchanges of its character in America. The grand hall is 221 feet in length, 92 feet wide and 80 feet high. The ceiling is perhaps the most appropriate and handsome in the country. It is finished in elaborate fresco work, with paintings in the panels. In their general details these are strik- ingly magnificent. The north panel is conspic- uous for its characteristic types of England, Germany, Italy, France, Scotland and other nations of the Old World in the central group, with others surrounding. The southern panel has types of Asiatic and African countries, and on the cornice are the States of the Union, desig- nated by name. The Exchange membership includes some three thousand of the leading men of the citv. The first president of the Chamber of Commerce was Mr. Edward Tracy. He was succeeded by Messrs. Wayman Crow, George K. McGunnegle, W. N. Morrison, Alfred Vincent, R. M. Henning, Henry Ames, E. M. Ryland, R. M. Funk- houser, D. A. January and William Mathews. The following gentlemen ha\e served as presi- dents of the Merchants' Exchange: 18G2 Henry J. Moore. 1S63 George Partridge. 1864 Thomas Richeson. 1865 Barton Able. 1866 E. O. Stanard. 1867 C. L. Tucker. 1868 John J. Roe. 1869 George P. Plant. 1870 Wm. J. Lewis. 1871 Gerard B. Allen. 1872 R. P. Taxsey. 1873 Wm. H. Scudder. 1874 Web. M. Samuel. 1875 D. P. Rowland. 1876 Nathan Cole. 1877 John A. Scudder. 1878 George Bain. 1879 John Wahl. 1880 Alex. H. Smith. ISSl Michael McEnnis. 1882 Chas. E. Slayback. 1883 J. C. EwALD. 1884 D. R. Francis. 1885 Henry C. Haarstick. 18R6 S. W. Cobb. 1887 Frank Gaiennie. 1888 Chas. F. Orthwein. 1889 Chas. A. Cox. 1890 John W. Kauffman. 1891 Marcus Bernheimer. 1892 Isaac M. Mason. 1893 W. T. Anderson. Mr. George H. Morgan has been secretary and treasurer since the year 1865. The Builders' E.xchange is the successor of the Mechanics' Exchange, another institution which has done good service in concentrating and developing the trade and commerce of St. lyouis. It was originally organized in 1839; it was reorganized on a wider basis, under the name of the Mechanics' and Manufacturers' Exchange and Library Association of St. Louis, in 1852. In 185(3 there was another reorgani- zation, and the exchange was established very much on the basis on which it exists to-day. In 1879 its headquarters were at 100 North Fourth street, and later its headquarters were on Seventh street, between Chestnut and Market. Upwards of a year ago, it moved into elegant offices in the Telephone Building, where it con- tinues to exercise a most beneficent influence on the building and kindred trades and interests of the city. It is universally regarded as one of the permanent institutions of the city of St. Louis, and is devoted to the building and ma- terial interests of the city, affording an oppor- tunity to its members and all engaged in the building business to enjoy the great advantage of having a meeting place in the central part of the city for the consideration of questions of importance relating to trade matters, lettings, and so forth. The hall is so large that it is used for conventions and similar gatherings. Mr. Richard Walsh is the secretary, and the 1893 president is Mr. Wm. J. Baker. The limits of space forbid a detailed history of the Real Estate Exchange, Coal Exchange, Brewers' Association, the Associated Wholesale Grocers of St. Louis, the Retail Grocers' Asso- ciation, the Furniture Board of Trade, of which mention has already been made; the Cotton Ex- change, the Wool and Fur Association, the Live Stock Exchange, the newly-formed Wholesale Clothing Association, and of the other organiza- tions designed to aid the city's commerce in various directions. St. Louis is fortunate in both the number and extent of these associations, and the influence of their work has been felt in a large variety of ways. FINANCE AND BANKING. 89 CHAPTER VIII. FINANCE AND BANKING. NEW ST. LOUIS AN IMPORTANT FINANCIAL CENTER.-BANK CLEARINGS.-TRUST COMPANIES AND BUILDING ASSOCIATIONS. E HAVE ALREADY seen that St. Louis is the great manufacturing and commercial center of a district even larger than that which is generally described as the Mississippi Valley. It is equally true that St. Louis is the great financial center of a district almost as large. The banks of St. Louis are known throughout the entire country for their solidity and for the conservative policy which has char- acterized their management. The year 1893 was a peculiarly trying one for banks, and from ever}' large city in the Union there came reports of distrust and uneasiness, followed, in very many cases, by records of actual suspension. None of the cities of the first class went through the ordeal entirely scathless, with the single exception of St. Louis, where there was not a single bank failure, nor even a suspicion of insolvency. Had it not been for the reports telegraphed from other cities, and the doleful forecasts of impending national calamity, St. Louis would have gone through the year with- out any knowledge of the panic, and its financial institutions would have done their ordinary bus- iness just as if it had been a great boom year. As it was, the reports of disasters elsewhere naturally led to timid depositors withdrawing money from the banks, but thanks to the solid rock foundation of these institutions, the with- drawals did not cause them any alarm, and, al- though the reduction in the amount of loanable capital necessarily hampered commercial prog- ress, all demands were promptly met; and it was proved that, with all its energy and enterprise, New St. Louis is just as solid and substantial as the unduly conservative Old St. Louis used to be. The history of banking institutions in St. Louis need not be traced at any great length in this work. In 1816 the Missouri Gazette wrote on "the opulent town of St. Louis, with a capital of nearly .$1,000,000," but went on to complain that there was no bank in the city to foster business, although the territorial legislature had granted a charter for one three years before. The banks of St. Louis and of Missouri, to which reference has already been made, were estab- lished soon after this, and the use of peltry and hides in place of money began to die out. The Bank of the State of Missouri appears to have done the bulk of the banking business for some time after this, and in November, 1829, this institu- tion, in consequence of the suspension of a num- ber of eastern bahks, passed a resolution that in the future it would receive and pay only its own notes and specie on the notes of specie-paying banks. Something of a local panic followed, and on November l.'kh a meeting was held to take into consideration the action of the bank. A number of the prominent capitalists of the city, including George Collier, E. Tracy, Pierre Chouteau, John Walsh, William Glasgow, John Perry, Henry Von Phul, John Kerr, G. K. McGunnegle, Joseph C. Leveille and John O'Fallon, with great public spirit pledged theni- seh-es to indemnify the bank against any loss it might sustain by the depreciation in notes. The offer was somewhat discourteously declined, and as a result the Bank of the State of Missouri was practically boycotted, and the St. Louis Gas 90 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. Light and the various insurance companies transacted most of the banking business. Private banking houses sprang into existence about this time, and the financial troubles of LSfio and 1854 were reflected on this city. In January, 1855, there was a run on several private banks and some of a more public character; but once more the public-spirited men of St. Louis came forward and checked the run by guarantee- ing deposits in the banking houses of Lucas & Simouds, Bogy, Miltenberg & Company, Tesson & Dangen, L. A. Benoist & Company, J. J. Anderson & Company, Darby & Barksdale and the Boatmen's Savings Institution. The panic was at an end and business was resumed as be- fore. In 1857 there was a renewal of trouble, but once more it was met in the same generous- hearted manner. After the war the banking institutions of St. Louis gathered strength, and until the panic of 1873 the local financial needs were well met. In that year $300,000 of "brown-backs " were issued. They took their name from the fact that owing to the dearth of currency, Mayor Brown recommended the Coun- cil to issue warrants to the extent of $300,000. The proposition was accepted and the warrants or notes issued. The financial transaction was a unique one, and served its purpose remarkal)ly well. Confidence was restored, and although there was further difficulty in 1887, that year may be named as the last in which there was any serious trouble with St. Louis banks. Early in the year 1887 St. Louis was made a central reser\-e city and a depositary for national banks of other cities. This recognition b\- the Federal government of the importance of St. Louis as a financial cen- ter has had the effect of making St. Louis ex- change used much more generally throughout the entire West and Southwest, and a very nuich larger number of banks in other cities have in- cluded St. Louis financial institutions in their lists of correspondents. Several of the largest firms have still further emphasized the impor- tance of St. Louis by remitting their personal checks on city banks for the payment of ac- ST. LOUIS A CENTRAL RESERVE CITY. counts due in other cities. This practice has not yet become as general as it ought to be, and efforts ha\'e been made during the last two or three j^ears to make the practice universal. Some firms still adhere to the old practice of pur- chasing exchange on New York and remitting the same in payment of accounts, a practice which involves a loss in illegitimate bank clear- ings of several millions per month. A large majority of the city banks favor the remitting of personal checks in preference to the purchase of exchange, and their influence is being gradually made perceptible in the right direction. In the days of Old St. Louis it was quite a usual practice for large firms to keep a banking account in New York, and to pay all eastern accounts by checks drawn on their New York banks. This plan is obviously unjust to a city of the magnitude of St. Louis, and, although it will take several years to make the remission of St. Louis checks to all outside points general, it is gratifying to know that very few firms now adhere to the plan of checking on New York instead of on banks of their own city. Corisid- ering the high financial standing of St. Louis banks and the central location of the city, St. Louis checks ought to be accepted at par in all parts of the countr\', and they are done so when any attempt is made to insist. Only once has New St. Louis seen a bank fail- ure. That was eight years ago, and was the result of a personal breach of trust, and not of commercial or financial dei^ression. The last statement as to banks and banking capital in Old St. Louis shows that the capital and surplus was $13,492,9(54; the savings and time deiwsits, fS, 901, 522; the current deposits, $32,827,489, and the circulation, $632,850. This was in 1882, and at the present time the banking busi- ness of the city has gained such proportions that the capital of the national banks alone exceeds $20,000,000; the surplus and profits, $3,000,000, and the loans and discounts, $23,000,000. The following official statement of the twentj'-six leading St. Louis banks, is one of which the city is naturally proud, and it shows very clearly the financial solidity of New St. Louis: FINANCE AND BANKING. 91 OFFICIAL STATEMENT OF THE TWENTY-SIX LEADING ST. LOUIS BANKS. RE.SOURCES. BANK. Bauk of Commerce Boatmeu's Fourth National Continental Nat'l State Bank St. Louis National German Savings Mechanics' Commercial Laclede National Third National German-American Franklin Merchants' Nat'l Lafayette Am. Exchange Northwestern Nat. B. of Republic Bremen Mullanphy Chemical National International Citizens' South Side Southern Com'l .. Jefferson Currency and Coin . ,499,834.30 .124,463. y7L840.56 938,732.01 767,174.68 59L333,8S 365,262.70 695,871.13 ,050,234.63 645,478.65 430,00L64 567,324.95 294,702.05 522,275.47 310,846.93 183,69L9l 86,344.60 233,519.29 69,563.45 80,518.10 130,599.73 138,265.30 219,601.25 140,483.39 12,192 95 37,143.65 Checks and Exchange. Loans and Discounts. 82-',593 492,77*;, 2><4,638. 789,427. 187,645. 748,350. 398,865. 501,649. 3:i9,782 410,756. 332,629. 259,664. 181,108. 197,538. 209,344. 161,661. 121,270. 243,515 145,169. 33,306 98,535 36,220 66,614 92,015, 21,729, 4,160 48^ #5 79i 5 56' 3 82.42; 2 844,068.25 ,481,271.46 290,032.37 909,671.38 260,564.04 675,369.12 745,923.50 659,568.56 171,975.86 370,824.61 091,922.00 651,002.83 625,649.52 934,707.56 715,367.17 643,539.27 120,462.51 044,564.58 691,123.06 825,103.15 796,249.37 589,943.72 514,212.4( 441,790.23 205,314.79 121,190:D5 Bonds and Stocks. 724,071.37 259,050.24 664,610.00 508,703.79 286.327.73 56,000.00 490,000.00 3,523.00 4,977.10 69,500.00 94,612 50 480,200.00 6.54,630.00 58,000.00 224,300.00 3,200.00 352,127.68 60,850.00 265,.500.00 154,513.24 57,000.00 64,289.04 5,825.9: 113,386.00 5,797.77 Heal Estate, Furniture and Fl-xtures. I 530,000.00 508,321.85 :20,237.65 50,000.00 44,269.91 211,000.00 63,131.37 50,663.97 180,000.00 30.000.00 134,000.00 Expense. Overdrafts . Totals. 43,002.25 6,871.77 24,863.15 23,752 30 500.00 126.64' 17,500.00 19,000.00 37,831.46 10,000.00 59,789.62 9,879.94 3,800 00 10,774.48 1,900.00 231.41 J. 1,922.06 75,313.85, 3,074.15 418.22 6,225.2S 21,160.64 5.091.89 1.120.10 3,929.08 1,108.49 5,882.80 536.72 2,830.91 1,486.42 5,329.80 10,474.22 1,315.10 394.46 567.54 2,316.80 3,328.66 278.54 2,062.41 1,906.02 406.90 •2,235.19 422 7,941 5,277, 5,196, 4,5.V2 4,310, 4,068 3,861 3,500, 3,473, 3,135, 2,988, 2,892, 2,737, 2,465, 2.002, 1,689, 1,600. 1,190, 1,133 1,095, 888, 818, 793 256 166 489.46 200.08 435.. 54 952.44 206.98 076.25 264.57 732.69 899.09 105.75 048.86 729.05 920.75 760.65 687.99 693.04 520.47 343. GO 923.34 589.45 945.12 786.37 ,196.35 381.02 216.59 629.31 LIABILITIES. BANK. Bank of Commerce Boatmen's Fourth National Continental Nat'l State Bank St. Louis National German Savings.. Mechanics' Commercial Laclede National Third National..., German-American Franklin Merchants' Nat'l Lafayette Am. Exchange Northwestern .. Nat. B. of Republic Bremen Mullanphy Chemical Nat'l International ..... Citizens' South Side Southern Com'l Jefferson Capital. p. 000, 2,000, 1 ,000, 2,000, 650, 1,000. 2.50, 600, 500 1,000 1,000 150 200 700 100 500 100 500 100 100 500 200, 200, 300 100, 100, Surplus and Profits. Circulation 000.00 000.00 000.00 000.00 000.00 000.0(1 000.00 000.00 000.00 ,000.00 000.00 000.00 ,000.00 ,000.00 ,000.00 000.00 ,000.00 ,000.00 ,000.00 000.00 000.00 000.00 noo.oo 000.00 000.00 000.00 ( 884, 541, 848, 259, 1,197, 190, 524. 688, 530, 194, 330, 661 462 246 •251 357 134 24 137 160 36, 84 71 35 14 3. 604. 535. 179. 883. 089. 212. 511. 200. 219. 711. 987. 019. 931. ,972. ,2,84, ,738, ,099 .442, ,000, ,885, 288. ,872, ,665. ,323, 069, 239. % 45,000.00 45,000.00 45,000.00 45,000.00 45.000.00 45,000.00 45,000.00 45,000.00 45,000.00 Individual Deposits. ,f;3,032.192. 3,012,400. 1,787,1.54. 1,624,577. 2,081,305. 1,315,403. 1,515,772. 1,745,793. 2,202,974. 1,401,134. 1,045,055. 1,394.191. 1,0.37,768. 1,064,005. 957,325. 798.090. 414,822 443,197. 402,521. 334.220. 344,345. 400,853. 415,230. 306,311. 91,034. 59,556, Hank Deposits. )fl, 578,014. 63 365,475.66 1,153,921.30 1,133,084.84 233,281.73 1,696,269.47 30,590.72 361,269.48 311,934.74 745,993.38 714,005.77 137,085.75 216,781.45 475,241.28 3,918.01 184,152.81 503,411.11 9,374.43 90,669.33 56.73 10,783.35 17,228.41 Time Deposits. t 882,667. 1,921,797. 393,179. 134,407. 391,530. 163,190. 1,528,843. 402,128. 16,770. 86,356. Bills Payable. 76$. 72 32 46 11 646,432 975,439 206,641 1,153,359 92,752 1,040,597 84,292 551,401 529,108 79,642 203,003 120,516 134,517 51,112 3,833 50,000.00 218,.545 82 64,310.41 Totals. 69,958.79 6.59 ,422,489.46 ,941,200.08 ,277, 435.. 54 ,196,952.44 ,552.206.98 ,310,076.25 ,068,264.57 ,861,732.69 ,560,899.09 .473,196.75 ,135,048.86 ,988,729.05 ,892,920.75 .737,760.65 ,465,687.99 ,002,693.04 ,689,520.47 ,600,343 66 ,190,923.34 ,133,589.45 ,095,945.12 888,786.37 818,196.35 793,381.02 266,216..-)9 166,629.31 92 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. It is universally conceded by experts that the St. Louis banks keep themselves in an excep- tionally solid position. The statement on the preceding page was prepared during the financial depression, and shows tlie institutions at their worst, instead of their best. Yet, the available funds for the surplus reserve averaged forty to forty-four per cent, as compared with less than twenty-five per cent in New York, and similar percentages elsewhere. The number of banks in St. Louis does not increase rapidly, but it is observed that those already in operation increase their facilities for doing business steadily, and one after the other they secure more handsome, commodious premises for the transaction of their business. Some of the most desirable corners in the city are now occupied by banks, and dur- ing the last few months several important changes of location have taken place. In addition to banks proper, St. Louis has three very large trust companies, which are transacting a banking business of great impor- tance, as well as acting as trustees and execu- tors and filling in many other ways a want long felt in financial circles. These institutions do not at present make use of the Clearing House directly in their transactions, and hence the business of that institution is not increased to the extent that the business done would appear to indicate. This last-named institution was oro-anized in 18()8, and has continued without interruption since. The first president was Mr. W. E. Burr, president of the St. Louis Na- tional Bank, who was succeeded in 1873 by Mr. Charles Parsons. In the same year Mr. Edward Chase became manager, and for the last twenty years he has conducted the vast transactions of the Clearing House Association with marked ability. In 1875 an amendment was made to the constitution making the mini- mum capital of meml)ers S 150,000, a conserva- tive policy which is still maintained. As already mentioned, the returns of the St. Louis Clearing House do not adequately repre- sent the financial transactions of the city. This is largely because of the comparative diminutive amount of speculation and dealing in options in St. Louis as compared with other more reck- less centers. Tliere is als.o an absence of any attemiJt here to make the figures better than they really are. Thus, in some centers checks are issued with the endorsement that they are pavable only through the clearing house, and hence all purely local transactions become added to the total. Also, in St. Louis it is the almost invariable practice to pay wages in cash and not by means of checks, as is a common prac- tice in many industrial centers. In addition to this, it is the practice of the St. Louis banks to pay their daily balances to each other in cur- rency. In many cities the certificate given by the Clearing House to banks, showing the amount coming to them on the balances from otlier banks, are treated as checks and cleared the following day, so that the amount of the balances of one day is added to the total clear- ings of the next. It is really a question of arithmetic and book-keeping only, but the sub- ject is worthy of mention, because it is impor- tant St. Louis people should realize that every dollar returned as being cleared represents that amount of actual business. In spite of this strictly conservative policy, the bank clearings of New St. Louis have steadily increased. They averaged considerably less than $60,000,000 a month when the change from the old to the new took place. In 18()(), ()()(). These included an immense number of new factories to take the place, in some instances, of build- ings which had ceased to be available for the purposes desired, and also to provide accommo- dation for increased business and new firms. Prior to this date there had been erected, in ad- dition to those already mentioned, such magnifi- cent structures as the Bell Telephone Building, in which the Builders' Exchange has its head- quarters; the new Globe-Democrat Building, and the Roe, Houser and Oriel buildings. The twentv-six buildings referred to as being either in course of construction or having contracts completed at the commencement of iy!l3 were as follows, the prices given being those named in the building permits, which, it will be seen, aggregate about $14,000,000: New Planters' House, twelve stories. Fourth street, between Pine and Chestnut streets, 11,000,000; the Colonnade, ten stories, com- prising a hotel, theatre and arcade, an ofiice- building and a Turkish bath estal^lishment, to occupy a half block on Ninth street, between Olive and Locust streets, $1,100,000; a hotel, not yet named, ten stories, on Ninth street, cor- ner of Pine street, $500,000; Imperial Hotel, ten stories, corner of JMarket and Eighteenth Streets, $1,200,000; City Hall, in old Wash- ington Park, fronting on Market, between Twelfth and Thirteenth streets, $2,000,000; new Union Depot, IMarket street, south side, between Eighteenth and Twentieth streets, $1,000,000;* Hammett- Anderson-Wade's Columbia Building, southeast corner of Eighth and Locust streets, $300,000; Mills & Averill's building, on Chest- nut street, twelve stories, $()00,00(_); Patterson Building, southeast corner of Olive and Twelfth streets, ten stories, $250,000; Fair Building, southwest corner of Seventh and Franklin ave- nue, $150,000; Nelson Building, south side of vSt. Charles, east of Twelfth, eight stories, $100,000; Hoyle Building, southwest corner of Third and Locust streets, $75,000; McCormack Building, north side of Chestnut, between Eighth and Ninth streets, $75,000; Interstate Investment Co.'s Building, southeast corner of Ninth and Washington avenue, $100,000; Ben- oist Building, southeast corner of Eleventh and Olive streets, $75,000; F. A. Drew Building, southeast corner of Twelfth and St. Charles streets, $125,000; Culver Building, southeast corner of Twelfth and Locust streets, $90,000; new Board of Education Building, northwest corner of Locust and Ninth streets, $400,000; Rialto Building, ten stories, southeast corner of Fourth and Olive streets, $500,000; Security Building, ten stories. Fourth and Locust streets, $1,500,000; Wainwright Building, nine stories, northwest corner of Se\-enth and Chestnut streets, $(;00,000; Union Trust Company Build- ing, fourteen stories, northwest corner of Sev- enth and Olive streets, $1,000,000; Puritan Building, north side of Locust, between Sev- enth and Eighth streets, nine stories, $150,000; Meyer Building, southeast corner of W'ashing- ton avenue and Eighth street, §100,000; new ]\Iercantile Club Building, southeast corner of Locust and Seventh streets, $500,000; Famous Building, west side of Broadway, between Franklin avenue and ^Morgan street, $400,000. *A comparison of tlie permit price of this structure with the actual expeuditure, as outlined on page (57, shows better than any argument in words how inadecjuateh- the building permit returns set forth the actual building ex- penditure. B UILDING IMPRO I 'EMENTS. 101 LIBRARY AND SCHOOL BUILDING. The Mercantile Library Building; was completed too soon to be included in this list. It is a fire-proof structure, on the corner of Broadway and Locust street, with the upper floors devoted to the library. Its reading-room is one of the largest and best equipped in the country, and it is a great ad\-ance on the old structure which made the library famous in for- mer years. The Public Library Building, or, more correctl)' speaking, the Board of Education Building, four blocks west of this, is another lofty and valuable building, as different from the old Polytechnic, in which the Public School Library was situated, as New St. Louis dif- fers from Old. Among the strictly 1893 build- ings not already described, but which must be mentioned as remarkable evidences of the build- ing activity of New St. Louis, is the new High School on Grand avenue. This building has a front facade 300 feet in length and 147 feet deep. Brick, ornamented with red sandstone, forms the outer walls, the front and two towers being faced with stone up to the second floor. There is an interior court 4r)xl30 feet for light and ventilation, and the building contains, in addition to an immense number of class and study-rooms, an assemlily-rooni about eighty feet square. Another is the new Mercantile Club Building, to which reference has already been made. This building has been erected on the site of the old club house and of Mr. Henry Shaw's mansion, at the corner of Seventh and Locust streets. It has a frontage of 127 feet on Locust street, and 90 feet on Seventh street. It is six stories high, and is constructed of Lake Superior red sandstone, resting on a granite base. The upper floors are of red brick, with sandstone trimmings. The design includes lofty balconies, and a gabled Spanish roof, giving the building a unique effect, very pleasing to the eye, as compared with the flat roof so universal in the modern lofty structures. A block west of this club, the St. Nicholas Hotel is in course of construction and will soon be ready for occupation. This is another build- ing in which the style of architecture differs materially from that in general use, and its appearance is sufirciently handsome and even antique to give quite a name and reputation to both Locust and Eighth streets. The esti- mated cost of the building is about $300,000. It is eight stories high with a balcony and a slanting red tiled roof with curved brick gables. These gables are already a source of admiration and by the time the finishing strokes have been put to the work the building will certainly be an ornament to the city. Among the peculiari- ties of the internal structure may be mentioned the ball-room, which is to occupy the upper- most floor. This will be one of the most gor- geous ball-rooms in the country, and is likely to be used very largely for entertainments of a public and semi-private character. No reference to the buildings of 1893 can be complete without something more than a pass- ing mention of the Rialto Building on the south- east corner of Fourth and Olive streets, a thoroughfare which in years gone by was the center of commerce of the city, but which in the early days of New St. Louis was rather out- classed by streets slightly more western. The new hotel, the Security and Laclede buildings and the Rialto are only four evidences of the determination of property owners to restore the street to its former commercial precedence and grandeur. The Rialto Building is ten stories high and is constructed of steel and iron, encased in massive blocks of granite and red sandstone. It fronts ninety feet on Fourth street and rather less on Olive street, and its cost was consid- erably in excess of $.300,000. The external appearance is rendered attractive by the archi- tectural device to increase the light and capacity of the offices, and the internal arrangements are complete in the extreme, the elevator plan being remarkable for its simplicity and good service. Adjoining, and in the shadow of this building, is the Bank of the Republic structure. This bank was established on Ninth and Olive streets, where it has built up a large and lucrative con- nection. It has, however, decided to move on Fourth street, and has erected a building one story high and remarkably attractive in its ap- 102 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. IN THE WHOLESALE SECTION OF THE CITY. pearance. The front is of Italian marble ex- quisitely carved in draped figures, and the entire roof is of heavy glass. Instead of erecting a high building and renting the upper offices, the bank preferred the more costly plan of a one-story building devoted entire!)' to its own use. The structure is thirty-five feet high, and each foot cost about $1,000 to construct. Among the buildings costing upwards of $500,000 and erected in 18!I3, was the Martin Building, on Tenth street, between Washington and Christy avenues. This is right in the center of what may be termed the wholesale district of St. Louis, and the building is designed exclusively for wholesale purposes. It occujiies a space of 70x205 feet, and is eight stories high. The two first stories are in blue Bedford stone, the remainder being in light colored Roman brick with terra cotta trimmings. There is a court in the center entered through an arched gateway on Tenth street. The Collier Block is on Washington avenue. Fourth, and St. Charles streets, and when completed will occupy an en- tire half block, with side frontages of 150 feet on both Washington avenue and St. Charles street. The main floors are of iron columns filled in with plate glass, and the upper floors are of dark gray brick with terra cotta trimmings, surmounted above the sixth floor by a Florentine cornice. The Columbian Club House and the new Good Shepherd Convent, although not strictly commercial structures, were in course of erec- tion during 18113 at a total cost approximating $750,000. The Columbian Club House is sit- uated at the corner of Lindell boulevard and Vandeventer a\-euue. It is a good type of the Italian renaissance style of architecture, with a facade of buff Roman brick and buff Bedford limestone. The building is four stories high and has a frontage of 114 feet. The new Good Shepherd Convent, costing nearly $50t),000, is in course of construction on Gravois avenue, a little west of Grand. The tract of land was presented by Adolphus Busch, and upon it is being constructed a building in Romanesque style, with little unnecessar}' ornamentation but of large capacity. The principal facade is 400 feet long, and the building is three stories high. Space prevents a detailed description of all the elegant buildings in course of construction at the present time, or which have been built during the last three years, but enough has been written to show that capitalists have an un- limited confidence in the future of New St. Louis and are willing at all times to invest freely in buildings of the better class. And it is very important to emphasize the fact that, although the year 1893 has been in ever)' way unfavor- able for new enterprises and generally discourag- ing for mercantile interests, there has been no difficulty in renting the rooms and offices in the new buildings, although the apartments now luimber several thousand. Favorite offices in the best buildings luuing the very best sites and locations have been secured long before work was completed, and the rapidity with which the new buildings have filled up is a striking testimony to the expansion of St. Louis and its manufacturing, commercial and finan- cial interests. No city on the continent has been transformed more completely by aid of the builder and contractor during the last six or eight years, yet the percentage of vacant offices in St. Louis is smaller than in any other large city. In other words, phenomenal as has been the increase in building, the demand has more than kept pace with that increase; and from every appearance it is still continuing to grow. The growth of the city, and the immense expendi- ture on improvements, has had a marked effect on the value of real estate. There has never been any wildcat speculation in the city, and, although the transactions have frequently shown a total consideration money exceeding on an average $1,000,000 a week, and continuing for many weeks, the bulk of the investing has been for the purposeof improvement, and not for mere specula- tion. It is on record that the ground now bounded by Market and Wash streets, and by Broadway and Jefferson avenue, w-as once sold for $4,000 A COMPARISON OF REALTY PRICES. BUILDING IMPROVEMENTS. 103 in cash and 2,400 levies of furs. The vahxe of this property to-day exceeds $250, 000, 000, and it inchxdes some of the most costly front- ages in St. Louis. There are several frontages worth more per foot than was paid for this entire tract in the city's early days. Thus, the corner of Broadway and Olive street is esti- mated to be worth more than $10,000 a foot; passing up Olive street the value decreases slightly going west. Thus, Seventh and Olive ground is worth about $8,000 a foot, while at Twelfth and Olive it is worth $2,r)00. West of Jefferson avenue the value decreases less rap- idly, and even as far west as Jefferson avenue available corners sell at $1,.")00 a foot front. The average value of Olive street property, be- tween Twelfth street and Broadway, is $6,834; and between Twelfth street and Jefferson avenue it is $2,000. There are about 14,(;00 feet of ground on Olive street, between Broadway and Jefferson avenue. The value of the property between Twelfth street and Jefferson avenue is $19,466,000; and between Twelfth street and Broadway it is $33,249,378. These figures, of course, do not include the value of any building impro\-ements on the property. Olive street frontage, in the busi- ness part of the city, is regarded as the most valuable property in the city at present. Lo- cust street and Broadway is worth $6,000 a foot. At Seventh street, Locust street property is worth $2,000 a foot; at Twelfth street, $1,500; and at Jefferson avenue, $300. The average value per foot, west of Twelfth street, is $3,166. Between Twelfth street and Jefferson avenue it is $900 a foot. The estimated value of the property on Locust street, between Broadway and Twelfth street, is $15,399,156, and be- tween Twelfth street and Jefferson avenue it is $8,758,800. St. Charles street at Broadway is worth $4,000 a foot. At Seventh street it is worth $1,200 a foot; at Twelfth street, $1,500 a front foot. West of Twelfth street, vSt. Charles street is practically no street. The average value of St. Charles street property, between Twelfth street and Broadway, is $2,233 a front foot, or $10,865,778. The corner of Washington avenue and Broad- way is worth $6,000 a front foot. At Seventh street, Washington avenue property is worth $3,000 a front foot ; at Twelfth street, $2,000; and at Jefferson avenue, $1,000. The average value per foot, east of Twelfth street and west of Broadway, is $3,667 a foot, and between Twelfth street and Jefferson avenue the average value is $1,500 a foot. The property east of Twelfth street, on Washington avenue, is worth about $17,596,800. The property on Washington avenue, between Twelfth street and Jefferson avenue, is worth, approximately, $14,400,000. Lucas avenue and Broadway is worth about $3,000 a foot. At Seventh street, Lucas avenue property is valued at $1,000 a foot ; at Twelfth street, $800; and at Jefferson avenue, $200 a foot. The average value per foot between Twelfth street and Broadway is $1,600 a foot; and be- tween Twelfth street and Jefferson avenue it is $500 per foot. The property on Lucas avenue, between Twelfth street and Broadway, is worth about $7,680,000; and between Twelfth street and Jefferson avenue it is worth $4,800,000. The corner of Morgan street and Broadway is worth about $2,000; Seventh and Morgan is worth $800 a foot; Twelfth and Morgan, $1,000; and Jefferson avenue and Morgan, $300 a foot. The average value of Morgan street property, between Twelfth street ancf Broadway, is $1,266; and the average value of Morgan street property, between Twelfth street and Jefferson avenue, is 1650 a foot. The total value of Morgan street property, between Twelfth street and Broadway, is 12,560,356; and between Twelfth street and Jefferson avenue it is $6,325,800. The corner of Broadway and Franklin avenue is worth $4,000 at foot. At Seventh street, Franklin av- enue property is worth $1,500 a front foot; at Twelfth street, $1,500; and at Jefferson avenue, $750. The average value per foot east of Twelfth street is $3,333; and between Twelfth street and Jefferson avenue it is $ 1 , 1 25. The esti- mated total value of the ground between Twelfth street and Broadway, on Franklin avenue, is $15,408,689; and between Twelfth street and Jefferson avenue it is $11,099,250. 104 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. ST. LOUIS REAL ESTATE AS AN mVESTMENT. These figures are selected as evidence of the growth in val- ues. It will be noticed that they are not specu- lative in any way, because nearly all of the property mentioned is in:pro\-ed with substan- tial buildings, and has not been bought and sold for speculation at values based upon surmises and possible growth. In the neighborhood of the new Union Station the increase in values has been more phenomenal and more specula- tive. Within four years prices have increased from five to ten-fold, although purchases are made without regard to the value of existing improvements. The influence of the enterprise of the Terminal Association has been felt to so marked an extent that the neighborhood within a few blocks of the depot is being completely reconstructed, and elegant hotels, boarding- houses, stores and mercantile establishments are taking the place of the comparatively small dwelling-houses which monopolized the frontage during the last decade of Old St. Louis and the first five or six years of New. The heavy ex- penditure in railroad improvements in the North End has had a similar influence on values, and, indeed, at the present time, it is almost impossible to obtain property at prices approx- imating those that were asked five or six years ago, and even more recently. The sudden with- drawal of capital from investment during the summer and fall of 1893 did not have any ma- terial effect on values in St. Louis. The num- ber of purchasers, of course, was greatly reduced, and sales were much harder to consummate; but holders had such tmlimited faith in both the present and future greatness of St. Louis that they declined to sacrifice, and the number of "hard times" sales at cut prices was very small. St. Louis real estate was the last to feel the influence of the depression, and the first to benefit by the restoration of confidence, and the business during the winter has not been far be- low the average. These facts show that St. Louis is not a "boom" town, and that, as an invest- ment for large and small sums, its real estate offers advantages not to be equaled elsewhere. Immense fortunes have been made out of judicious investments in the city; and in still more instances substantial and satisfactory re- turns have been received. The reputation for solidity and conservatism in finances has helped the real estate interests of St. Louis to a marked extent. The amount of loanable capital from a distance has always been large, and one com- pany alone, the Connecticut Mutual Life In- surance Company, has loaned upwards of $20,000,000 in St. Louis since its general awakening and revival. Mr. E. S. Rowse, who has negotiated the loans, rejoices in the fact that his books show an absolutely clean rec- ord, not a single case of foreclosure marring their pages. This company has loaned about $35,000,000 in the State, and its success and enterprise is merely quoted because of the very profitable faith in St. Louis and in Missouri which the vastness of its operations demon- strates so conclusively. At the time of this writing millions of dollars are known to have been withdrawn from specu- lative investment and placed in deposit vaults, where the money is unproductive. The loss of thousands of dollars a year in interest this way naturally arouses capitalists of every grade to a sense of the error they are committing, and the indications are that a greater portion of the money will be taken from the "stockings" without further delay and invested where it is quite as safe and a thousand times more produc- tive — St. Louis real estate. The natural conse- quence will be renewed and increased activity during the coming year, with countless jjrojects of improvements and hundreds of new buildings. If this work partook of the nature of advice to investors, there would be no better ending to this chapter than a recommendation to investors to take time by the forelock and make their selections and purchases before the enhancement of values which the increased demand of the coming spring is certain to create. The specu- lator is not very likely to make a mistake if he selects New St. Louis as the field of his opera- tions; while the investor has a still greater guar- antee of satisfactory returns. MUNICIPAL DE I 'EL OPMENT. 105 CHAPTER X. MUNICIPAL DEVELOPMENT. THE NEW WATER-WORKS.-NEW CITY HALL. -NEW ST. LOUIS, THE PIONEER IN STREET SPRINKLING AND ELECTRIC LIGHTING. ^ "VHE PROGRESS made iu municipal iiisti- \ / tutions and features during the last ten (g) (g) years has been enormous, and the New St. Louis idea has been warmly supported la and fostered by the city authorities. In the first chapter the cit\'s incor- poration and the extension of the city limits from time to time are briefly recorded, and in pursuance of the plan on which this work is based, only those features which have a strong bearing on the city's new growth will be dealt with at any length, while nothing in the shape of a municipal history of Old St. Louis will be attempted. It is impossible, however, to omit a tribute to the genuine integrity and zeal of the men who have been placed at the head of the city go\'ernment from time to time. The earlier mayors were not assisted by commissioners, as now, and all the detail work passed through their hands. At this stage of the city's history the mayor is at the head of an immense body of workers, and the Board of Public Improvements has a president whose duties are as numerous as the sands on the sea-shore. The other members of the board are the street, water, sewer, harbor and park commissioners, each in control of the department from which he takes his name. The health department is managed by a com- missioner who has no seat in the "B. P. I." cabinet, and among the other heads of depart- ments are the city register, the supply commis- sioner and the building commissioner. The following table, giving the names of the mayors of St. Louis since the city's incorpora- tion, and data as to population, will be of inter- est, and will also show concisely how rapidly the citv has grown: Period of Atliuiniytratioii Mayor, 1823-28 . 1829-32 1833 1833-34 1835-37 1838-39. 1S40 .. 1841 .. 1842 .. 1843 1844^5 1846 1847 .. 1848 1849 .. 1850-52 1853-54 1855 1856 1S57 1858-60 1861-62, 1863 1864-68 1869-70 1871-74 1875 1875 -, 1876 1877-81... 1881-85.. 1885-89.. 1889 1889-93 .. 1893 ... Wm. Carr Laue Daniel D. Page Samuel Merry* J. W. Johnson John V. Darby Wm. Carr Lane John F. Darby John D. Daggett ... George Maguire .... John M. Wimer Bernard Pratte P. G. Camden lirjan Mullanphy. John 1\L Krum James G. liarry L. M. Keunett John How Washington King - John How John IL Wimer Oliver D. Filley . . Dan. G. Taylor Chaun. I. Filley .... Jas. vS. Thomas Nathan Cole Joseph Brown Arthur Barrettf James H. Britton Henry OverstolzJ .. Henry Overstolz.... Wm. L. Ewing D. R. Fraucisfi Geo. W. Allen II F. A. Noonan C. P. Walbridge . Dntc of Census. 1820 1S3(.I 1835 1840 18.50 1860 1870 1880 1890 1893 I'opulHLion. 4,928 5,832 8^316 16,469 74,439 160,773 310,963 350,518 3451,770 (5620,000 ^■^ Disquiilififd ill consequence of holdiiif;; ottice under general gov- ernment. J. \\ . .lohnson elected in his place. t Died April ;."3, 187.5. J. II. Britlon elected to fill vacancy. X Declared elected by City Council February 9, 1870, instead of .lames H. Hritton. S I). R. Francis elected Governor of Missouri, and resigned .Jan- uary ■->. 1889. ]| Geo. \S . .\IIen. being President City Council, became mayor. a Federal census, generally (conceded to be at least 30,000 too small. b Directory census early in year. 106 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. I^AYOR EWING, 1881—1885. It was during the mayor- alt)- of ^Ir. W. L. Ewing that New St. Louis commenced to exist. The pen with which Mr. Ewing signed his approval of the ordinance authorizing the construction of the first rapid-transit street rail- road in St. Louis ought to have been preserved in the city archives, for, as we have seen, that ordinance enabled a complete change to be made, not only in the street railroad facilities, birt also in the city itself. The next event of importance, or perhaps an event of equal im- portance, during Mayor Ewing's administration was the commencement of the repa\-ing of the down-town streets with granite. This was done under the fostering guidance of ]\Ir. J. W. Tur- ner, who was street commissioner at the time, and whose work was of so high an order that his name has since been mentioned as a desirable candidate for almost every municipal office of importance from the mayoralty down. Mr. Tur- ner found the streets in but an indifferent condi- tion, not worse, perhaps, than those of other cities, but in no way suited for the heavy traffic of a busy manufacturing district. The soft road- ways gave way under heavy loads, and in many instances extra teams had to be obtained to pull wagons out of holes and ruts. Reference has already been made to the opposition with which the proposal to pave the down-town streets with granite was received, but the authorities held their own, and finally the good work was com- menced in earnest. In the spring of 1883 there were little more than three miles of granite paving in the city, but during the years 1884 and 1885 reconstruction on a wholesale scale was completed, and at the end of the lat- ter year there were over twenty-two miles of granite streets in the city, with about a mile of limestone blocks, a little over two miles of wooden blocks, four miles of asphalt, five of telford and about 285 of macadam. In his report for the year 1885, Mr. Turner went very fully into the granite pavement ques- tion. "It is needless to say," he remarked, "that the granite pavements have gi\-en great satisfaction. They have facilitated and thereby decreased the cost of transportation o\er our streets very largely. Houses handling large amounts of heavy goods report that it has reduced the cost of transportation two-fifths. A great deal of the objection that was raised at first against these pavements in anticipation of excessive noise has subsided; either the noise was not so great as was expected or the people ha\-e become accustomed to it. Doubtless, in narrow streets on which the traffic is very great, the noise is quite objectionable, but we have few of these; and taking the immense advantage gained by having solid and enduring pavements facilitating the operations of the commerce of the cit\-, we can tolerate a few disadvantages arising from our new pavements. The character of our work can be considered first-class in e\ery re- spect; the quality of the stone is good. We have now several varieties to select from, and the supply on the line of the Iron Mountain Rail- road, within a haul of one hundred and fifty miles of the city, is inexhaustible. The price of these pavements has been gradually falling; our last lettings show a very great reduction, due to competition, resulting from new parties opening new quarries, thereby increasing the supply of stone in the market; and also due to increased capacity of and facilities for operating old quarries." The wear and tear of eight years has more than borne out Mr. Turner's estimate of the high character of the Avo-rk. The best laid of the down-town streets are still in perfect order, and show little or no signs of wear. The mileage of the granite streets has increased steadily every year, and Mr. Turner's successors, Messrs. Burnett and Murphy, have evinced as much enthusiasm on the subject as Mr. Turner himself. There are now some forty- six miles of granite-paved streets in the city, in addition to nearly five miles of granite-paved alle)-s. Limestone blocks for streets have not proved entirely satisfactory, but there are up- wards of eight^•-four miles of alleys paved this way, and giving good service. The mileage of telford pavement has been increased since THE STREETS AND THEIR PAVING. MUNICIPAL DE I 'EL OPMENT. 107 the revival, and there are now some thirty-three miles pa\ed in this way, with a total mileage of improved streets and alle}'s exceeding 450. The streets of the city, and more especially the side- walks, are now on the whole far better paved than those of the average American city, althongh the rapid increase in territory has made it impossible to keep up with the city's growth. In order to expedite improvements, the law con- cerning the apportionment of cost was revised in 1892, and it is now enacted that the entire cost of reconstrnction shall be charged against adjoining property, regardless of its assessed valnation. As the resnlt of this enactment, known as the "Stone law," a large quantity of improvement work has been commenced and is under contemplation, and the splendid reform in Mayor Ewing's term will soon be so developed and bronght to such perfection as to canse delight to St. Louis citizens generally. When St. Louis was first settled, the high o-round on the bluffs was what attracted the o pioneers, who knew nothing and cared less about the magnificent location beyond the bluffs, and how admirably the site was adapted for a great city. After the abrupt rise from the river, there is a table-land with just sufficient grade to make drainage easy, extending se\eral miles north and south, and about three-quarters of a mile west. Beyond this right out to the city limits the ground is rolling, a succession of hills and vallej'S with a gradual tendency upwards, affording admirable opportunities for street laying and general draining. Had our ances- tors been less conservative in the matter of extending the city limits and had they taken in fresh territory before instead of after it was platted out and built up, we should have had in St. Louis a magnificent system of rectangular streets. As it is, St. Louis is really made up of a large number of incorporated towns and vil- lages, and as many of these had a complete system of streets before being absorbed, there are several irregularities which have given trouble to the authorities from time to time in the way of street-naming. The trees to be found in the forest around the cit)- in its early days suggested- names for the principal streets running east and west; and to a great extent the streets running north and south ha\e been from time to time numbered consecutively instead of being named. East of Jefferson avenue the numerical system of nomenclature is fairly regular, but west of that thoroughfare most of the north and south streets are known as avenues, and aregiven distinctive names, consid- erable confusion being caused thereby. Shortly after the adoption of the scheme and charter, there was a general overhauling of names, and at the present time a motion is before the Mu- nicipal Assembly to further simplify the system. Market street has always been the dividing line between north and south, and all numbers north and south commence from this historical thoroughfare. The numbers on the streets run- ning east and west commence from the river, and each block has its distinctive number. The plan, on the whole, works well; and a reform now being perfected whereby street signs will be made more numerous and conspicuous, will do away with nearly every complaint. Since Street Commissioner Turner commenced his cru- sade against unpaved streets in the business section, the boulevard idea has gained nuich strength in St. Louis. The first boulevard to be constructed was the Lindell, which is still looked upon as one of the finest driveways in the West. It connects Grand avenue with Forest Park, and is a popular driveway as well as a most desirable promenade. It is adorned with some of the most magnificent houses in the city, and is regarded by visitors as a great credit, not only to St. Louis but to the West generally. Forest Park boulevard, a few blocks south of the Lindell is, in some respects, even more elaborate than what is generally known as "TheBoidevard." It has a park-like reserva- tion in the center of the street, and when more thoroxighly built up will be a strong competitor for public fa\-or. The present street commis- sioner, Mr. M. J. Murphy, is responsible for a comprehensive plan of boulevards, which will add some sixty miles to those already in exist- THE BOULEVARD SYSTEM. 108 OLD AND NEW ST. LOU/S. ence. In March, INIH, an act was passed by tlie State Assembly antlioriziiig cities of more than 300,000 inhabitants — or, in other words, St. Louis, there being no other city in the State with even half that number of inhabitants — to establish boulevards with special building-line, and restricted as to the nature of the travel. The boulevards will vary in length and will provide a system of driveways unsurpassed in any city in the country. Among those already dedicated under the act may be mentioned the boulevards already described, Delmar boulevard, from Grand avenue to city limits, a distance of four miles; and Washington boulevard, a par- allel street. Among those comprised in the sys- tem will be Columbia boulevard; Florissant boulevard, from Hebert street to the city limits, a distance of five miles; King's Highway, from Arsenal street to Florissant avenue, six miles; Union avenue, from Forest Park to Natural Bridge road; Skinker boulevard, skirting the city limits some six miles, and se\'eral other shorter but scarcely less important lengths of thoroughfare. The boulevard system, when completed, will add some fifty or sixty miles to the most beauti- ful thoroughfares of St. Louis, which in them- selves are far more attractive than the average citizen is apt to realize. A visitor from the dis- tance seeing Vandeveuter, Westmoreland or Portland place, for the first time, is enchanted with the delightful combination of urban wealth with rural beauty. The park reservations in these places, which are selected as types of others either in contemplation or in course of construction, are kept in the highest stage of cul- tivation. The roadways on either side of them are almost perfect, and the houses which have either been constructed or are being erected are models of architectural excellence. Taken altogether, the streets, avemres, boule\'ards and private places of St. Louis are unequaled, and they are an honor to New St. Louis and to the men who in the early days of the revival lent their influence and ability to a mo\-emeiit which has resulted so ad\'antageously, and which prom- ises to attain far greater excellence. MA YOR FRANCIS, I88S-I889. The administration of Mayor David R. Francis ex- tended over a period of great importance to New St. Louis. Mr. Francis was elected in the spring of 1885, and he continued at the head of the city government until the end of 1888, when he resigned in consequence of his election to the highest office within the gift of the State of Missouri. Politicians of everv grade give him credit for encouraging every movement calculated to add to the city's greatness, and also for originating and recommending a large num- ber of reforms and new enterprises of the utmost importance. If the ex-mayor and ex-governor were asked what was the most vital question with which he was called upon to deal while occupying the mayoralty chair, it is probable he would reply that it related to the city's water supply, which, when he took charge, was being rapidly overtaken by the city's great increase in population. The growth in population during the eighties exceeded 100,000, and it is generally conceded that the bulk of this increase took place after 1884, or during the latter half of the decade. The danger, or at least the possibility, of a water famine in the event of the slightest break-down in the machinery of the existing plant so impressed the mayor that he cordially endorsed the recommendations of Water Com- missioner Whitman and lent his influence to the movement, which resulted in work being com- menced to entirely reconstruct the system and furnish water settled and filtered in sufficient quantity to supply the demand of 1,000,000 people. The history of the water supply of St. Louis is one of contimial expenditure and improve- ment. So rajMd has been the city's growth that no sooner has one system been perfected than new works have been discussed. In the early days of the city water was procured by means of wells; and about seventy years ago the problem of water-works construction began to be discussed. Work was conuneuced on the first water-works in 1830. They were situated in the neighborhood of Ashley, Collins and Bates streets, and the first reser\'oir was on MUNICIPAL DEVELOPMENT. 109 Little AIouiul. Engine-houses were built at the foot of Bates street, and a six-inch main laid. The enterprise was a private one, but did not prove very profitable to the investor, and the city was compelled to render financial assist- ance. In 1835 the works were purchased for $l1 the sum of $r),4()0 had to be raised to meet the deficiency caused by the engagement of high-class talent. In the season of 1892-93 the deficit was only $3,(iOO, which was promptly made up, and the indications are that the season of 1893— 94 will be about self-supporting. The influence of the society has been felt in public institutions of every character. The singing in the churches in St. Louis is now ex- ceptionally fine, and the same may be said of several of the local institutions. In another way the Philharmonic and Choral societies have shown their influence. Old St. Louis had a reputation among advance agents as being an excellent town for concert companies to miss. New St. Louis, thanks largely to the Choral Society, has a very different reputation, for any good company can secure a crowded house. During the thirty days between April 12 and May 12, 1893, there were eleven high-class con- certs in St. Louis, and these received the sum of $15,000 as a reward for their excellence. 126 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. THEATERS AND CONCERT HALLS. As an ainusement center generally St. Louis has a high reputation. IMention has alread)- been made of the special attractions provided during the autum- nal festival period, and a record has been made of the early struggles of the first theater con- structed in the city. There are now six thor- oughly equipped first-class theaters in the city, with a seating capacity of more than 12,000, independent of the (J, 000 seats in the two halls within the Exposition Building. For six sea- sons in succession five of these theaters have been well supported, and the best theatrical tal- ent of the country has lieen seen at them. St. Louis' patronage has been also liberal enough to attract the best actors of foreign countries tour- ing in America, and the appreciation of high- class histrionic work is proverbial. At the Olympic Theater, on Broadway, opposite the Southern Hotel, Joseph Jefferson, Edwin Booth, Lawrence Barrett and Fanny Davenport may be mentioned among leaders in the profession who have played very successful engagements. The Grand Opera House, is equally popular, and here also some of the greatest performers of the day have been seen. In addition to the best American actors and actresses, such consi^icuous figures in the theatrical world of other nations as Sarah Bernhardt and Wilson Barrett have been seen repeatedly. The orchestra of the Grand is exceptionally good, and, like the Olym- pic, the theater is first-class in every respect. Among the newer bids for the support of the theater-going fraternity may be mentioned the Hagan Opera House, erected about two years ago. The Hagan is a novelty in more ways than one. The construction and plan invoh'ed a maximum of common sense and convenience, while the management, in going as far west as Tenth street, showed an ability to read the signs of the times, which subsequent patronage has proved to have been exceedingly valuable. The newest of St. Louis' first-class theaters is the Germania, which is still farther west, being sit- uated at the corner of Fourteenth and Locust streets. Here are represented German plays of high character, and the patronage of the house is a tribute to the power of appreciation of the German element in St. Louis' population, an element which has done so much to maintain the stability of the city. St. Louis is also exceedingly well cared for in the matter of summer opera. The oldest sum- mer-garden theater in St. Louis is LHrrig's Cave, which dates from six or seven years prior to the war. During the summer evenings light opera is produced here by companies of established reputation, and empty seats are seldom seen. Close to the Cave is the Pickwick Theater, a favorite house of the numerous amateurs of promise of St. Louis. On the south side Schnai- der's Garden, with its commodious and indeed luxurious sunnner theater, provides entertain- ment for dwellers in the southern wards. The new Sportsman's Park is also so arranged as to make it available for operatic and spectacular performances during the summer evenings. In the southern portion of the city Liederkranz Hall is very popular for high-class entertain- ments, and there are now in course of construc- tion several additions to the entertainment halls and ball-rooms of the city. New St. Louis is rich in the extreme in the matter of clubs. Of the Commercial, the ]\Iercan- tile and the Noonday clubs mention has already been made. The two latter have been spoken of more in their business or commercial aspects, but thev are also important factors in the society appointments of this great city. Since moving into its new building the Mercantile has carried the war into Africa in a most dexterous manner. From time, the memory whereof man knoweth not, ladies Iiave looked upon clubs as their natural enemies, and ha\-e censured their sweethearts and husbands in no mild terms for allowing the luxuries of the smoking and billiard-room to lure them frum the fireside in winter, or the front-door step in summer. The directors of the Mercantile, who it is not suggested have been censured in like manner as the immense majoritv of their fellow-men, decided to disarm the criticism of the ladies by making them, CLUBS AND CLUB LIFE. SOCIAL ADl'ANTAGES. 127 as it were, particcps criim'iiis. To do this, they fitted up ladies' rooms in the most hixurious style, and not only made it admissible for mem- bers to bring their own, or other men's, sisters to the club, but even encouraged them to do so. Hence, the Mercantile Club, in addition to being one of the most influential commercial organiza- tions in the West, is also one of the most de- lightful society and social clubs in the world, as popular with the wives and daughters of mem- bers as most clubs are unpopular. Mr. George D. Barnard, the president of the club, has earned much praise by his able completion of the work of reconstruction which was com- menced and carried on so zealously by his pred- ecessor, Mr. J. B. Case. The St. lyouis Club is luxurious in its appoint- ments, and has an air of exclusiveness about it which is in accordance with the ideal of high- toned club life. Its home is in a magnificent building on the southwest corner of Ewing ave- nue and Locust street, and its four hundred members include representative men of every type which can be regarded as consistent with the requirements of the upjier-ten. The Fair Grounds Jockey Club has its home inside the Fair Grounds, and is a popiUar resort, especially in the summer-time. Its membership is very large, and its banqueting hall is taken advantage of frequently for the purposes of en- tertaining strangers. Had a phonograph been inserted in the walls of this hall it could have bottled up enough eloquence to have educated the rising generation from time to time on almost every point of interest and importance. The University Club was erected by scholars for scholars, and all the learning and erudition of the city is represented within its walls. Its nrembers can talk in a greater number of lan- guages than the men who commenced to erect the Tower of Babel. Of recent years the quali- fications of members, so far as University gradu- ation is concerned, has been relaxed, and there are now several members who confess to knowing little Latin and less Greek. The club continues to be a high-toned social organization, popular in the extreme with gentlemen of refined tastes. EXCLUSIVE ORGANIZATIONS. The Marquette Club has its home in a very attractive and suitable building on Grand avenue and Pine street. The constitu- tion of the club states that its primary objects are to unite the prominent Catholic gentlemen of St. Louis and vicinity in bonds of social union ; to organize them into a body that shall repre- sent, watch over, vindicate and further Catholic interests; to establish it in an unobjectionable club-house, and by placing the club on a lasting basis to perpetuate a union of Catholics in the city of St. Louis. The club has carried out its original object very successfully. The Harmonic Club was established in the forties by several of the then prominent Hebrew citizens of St. Louis. The club is still some- what of a religious institution, though it is a very high-class social club. It rents a fine building on the corner of Eighteenth and Olive streets, and it is its proud boast that bonds and in- debtedness of any kind are absolutely unknown to the club or its management. The Columbia Club has just completed a very handsome build- ing on Lindell boulevard, just west of Vande- venter avenue, in which l^i-') members will establish themselves and run a club similar in every respect to the Harmonie. The Union Club has a home on the south side, at Lafayette and Jefferson avenues, in which there is crowded more provision for home com- fort than has perhaps ever been seen under one roof before. Every club is established to fill a long-felt want, but few of them have done their work so thoroughly as the Union, wdiich in its new location is a distinct boon to residents on the south side. The new building is quite unique, both externally and internally, and every memljcr is individually proud of it. The Liederkrauz is also a south side club. It owns a very handsome building on Chouteau avenue and Thirteenth street, and its member- ship of 6.")0 includes some of the most able singers in the city. The German element pre- dominates strongly, and there are in addition to large and small entertainment and rehearsal halls, dining-rooms and club apartments of every 128 OLD AND NEW ST. LOUIS. HOTELS AND A ccommoDA tions FOR GUESTS. character. Liederkranz concerts and entertain- ments are ahva\s leading social events. Only members of the Order of Elks are eligi- ble for the Elks Clnb, which has its home in the Hagaii Opera Bnilding, on Pine and Tenth streets. There are about a hundred members who make use of the club, both for business and social purposes. Athletics of every description are encouraged by the management, and the club has also a special reputation for hospitality, very elegant suppers being tendered to visitors to the city, especially those who have made a reputation elsewhere in their respective pro- fessions. There are also several very successful ladies' athletic and c^xling clubs and semi-religious associations. The autumnal festivities attracts so inany visitors that during the fall season the hotel accommodations of St. I^ouis of recent j-ears have been found scarcely adequate, and in order to increase the facilities for taking care of large carnival and convention crowds, the $2,000,000 hotel al- ready described is being constructed. It will be opened in the course of a few months, and will make«the down-town hotel facilities very com- plete. The Southern Hotel, a substantial fire- proof structure, has for many years been re- garded as the leading hotel in the city and among the foremost in the West, its rotunda being one of the most extensive in existence. The Lindell Hotel, a few blocks farther north, is another establishment first-class in every re- spect. The Laclede Hotel is looked upon as an ideal family hotel, and is also exceedingly popu- lar with politicians of every shade. The num- ber of caucuses that have been held in and around it is very large, and the hotel manage- ment has a reputation extending from Maine to California for going out of its way to accom- modate individual visitors and delegations in every conceivable manner. Adjoining the La- clede is Hurst's new hotel, another very fine structure; and nearly opposite the Lindell is the Hotel Barnum, a very popular house. The tendency to move westward, which has resulted from the rapid transit facilities, has also been marked in the hotels. A few years ago the idea of first-class hotels west of Twelfth street would have been ridiculed, but now there is on Fortieth street, or Vandeventer avenue, a hotel known as the West End, whose appoint- ments are first-class in every respect, and which is very popular both as a hotel proper and a family boarding-house. On Grand avenue the Hotel Beers and Grand Avenue Hotel are further exponents of this western idea; and early in the ensuing spring another very handsome edifice for hotel jDurposes is to be erected on the same thoroughfare. Li the vicinity of the New Union Station, also far west of what has up to recent years been regarded as out of the way of busi- ness and travel, two and probably three very fine hotels are about to be erected, sites having been obtained for that purpose. When they are added to the present hotel equipment of the city, St. Louis will be able to handle a convention crowd of almost any magnitude without the necessity of special bureaus for the placing of guests in boarding-houses and private residences. St. Louis is not a litigious cit)-, and arbitration for the BENCH AND BAR OF ST. LOUIS. settlement of commercial dis- putes has always been very popular. There are, howe\-er, in the city a large number of lawyers and attorneys who find sufficient employment to yield them good incomes and who display marked ability in the exercise of their profes- sion. Tlie bar of vSt. Louis to-day knows no superior in the West, and among the gentlemen practicing law there are several whose fame ex- tends to distant points. In the early history of vSt. Louis the laws of England, France and Spain were all partly enforced, and there were many complex questions in regard to titles which called for the exercise of the greatest possible care and ingenuity. Those days have passed now, and the business falling into the hands of the attorneys of the city is of an entirely differ- ent nature. On the bench there are to be found many lawyers of exceptional experience, and manv decisions have been made here which SOCIAL ADl-ANTAGES. 129 have been recognized as irreproachable law. Quite recently the city gave to the nation for a cabinet office one of its prominent attorneys; and other members of the St. Louis bar have distinguished themselves in various parts of the country. In another part of this work there will be found records of the careers of some of the most prominent members of the St. Louis bar, including sketches of some of the judges whose ability and integrity has made them more than fanicus. The Bar Association of St. Louis was estab- lished in 1874. Col. ThomasT.Gantt was tempo, rary chairman of the meeting called to "consider the propriety and feasibility of forming a bar association in the city of St. Louis." A com- mittee of five was appointed, consisting of Alexander Martin, Henry Hitchcock, R. E. Rombauer, George M. Stewart and Gi\'en Camp- bell. The first president was Mr. John R. Shep- lev, who in his first address emphasized the fact that the object of the association was to " main- tain the honor and dignity of the profession of law, to cultivate social intercourse among its members, and for the promotion of legal science and the administration of justice." It would be difficult to overrate the good influence of this association, or its effect on the tone of the bar and its members. St. Louis is such a healthy citv that it is anything but a doc- tor's paradise, and the number of physicians in the city is not large, when the population is taken into account. Among the physicians who have made their home in St. Louis, there are several whose reputation ex- tends beyond the confines of Missouri and Illi- nois, and even beyond the boundaries of the United States. Some of our surgeons are requi- sitioned from very distant points, when excep- tionally complicated cases call for exceptional skill; and the city has also specialists who rank so high in the medical world that they are smn- moned for consultation to cities 1,000 miles dis- tant. It would be interesting to trace the early history of medicine in the city, but it must suf- fice to say that at the present time nothing is DOCTORS OF MEDICINE. NEWSPAPERS OF NATIONAL INFLUENCE. needed in this respect, and that all that science and skill can do to ameliorate suffering and to prolong life can be and is done in St. L,ouis. The medical press is well represented, and the medical journal which has the largest circulation in the world is published from this city. Almost every known school of medicine is represented, not only by practitioners, but also by medical colleges. The number of these latter is very large, and the work they do in educating and preparing young men for the profession is influential for much good. There are several hospitals in the city, some of them connected with religious and other bodies, and others which are entirely independent and catholic in their work. It is to be regretted that the exigencies of space prevent a detailed description of the hospitals and medical colleges, but such would require an entire volume to even do the subject partial justice. The newspapers of St. Louis speak for themselves, two, at least, of them having national influence and importance. Following the plan generally adopted in this book, the early history of the newspapers will be but very briefly men- tioned. The Globe- Democrat is probably the best newspaper in the United States west of New York, and it is certainly by far the best newspaper in the country west of New York and south of Chicago. It is the survival of the Globe and the Democrat^ which papers were consolidated in 187.5. Two years ago the Globe- Democrat moved into the magnificent building on the corner of Sixth and Pine streets, which it erected for its own home. The building is a model newspaper office in almost every respect, and it has few equals and still fewer superiors in the United States. The policy of the Globe- Democrat politically is Republican, but national affairs are looked upon in a very liberal manner, and measures, rather than parties, are analyzed and discussed from a critical standpoint. Mr. Joseph B. McCullagh is the editor-in-chief of this great newspaper, which, during the eight- een years which have elapsed since its publica- ibO OLD AND N1-:\V ST. LOUIS. tion under ils present name, has been edited daily under his personal supervision, the aggre- gate number of days of his absence from the ofTice during that period being about equal to the time occupied by the summer vacation of the ordinary professional or business man. The Globe- Democrat is conspicuous for the absence of trumpet-blowing of its own achievements, and when it moved into the "Temple of Truth," the only announcement made in its columns of its change of location was included in the single sentence: ' ' We have moved. ' ' The early history of the St. Louis Rcpiif)/ic has already been given in these columns. It is now one of the most influential Democratic newspapers in the United States, and although old in years and experience, it is still young in enterprise and vigor. In addition to an excel- lent telegraphic and news service from outside the city, it makes a specialty of local news, which it covers with great accuracy and judg- ment. Since it changed its name and reorgan- ized, its circulation has increased with great rapidity, and the growth of its influence has been quite on a par with its financial boom. There are three evening newspapers in St. Louis published in the English language — the Post-Bispatc/iy the Star- Sayings and the C/iron- icle. The Post-Dispatch is the largest of these, and it publishes a Sunday issue which is really a magazine and compendium of current litera- ture in addition to a first-class newspaper. It is edited by Mr. Florence White, and both the daily and Sunday issues are bright exponents of the New St. Louis idea. The Star-Sayiugs is edited by Mr. John Manner, an able and conscientious journalist, who has succeeded in largely increasing the in- fluence and importance of the paper. The Star- Sayings is enjoying a great renewal of ])rosperit'. . and makes itself heard on all questions of ini porta uce. The C/iro/iictc is the only one-cent daily paper in the city. Its editor, General Hawkins, has completely remodeled and rejuvenated the paper, which is popular in the extreme, and which claims to ha\'e a larger local sale than any other paper published. The German papers are almost as prominent as those printed in English. The Westliclie Post and the Aiizeigrr dcs JJ^cstats are quoted as authorities in all parts of the United States; and the Aiiicrilca^ Tribune and Tagcblatt have each their own field to fulfill in a satisfactory manner. The magazine press of St. Louis is less con- spicuous than the daily, and although there are several publications, there are none of s\ifficient national repute to make a detailed reference to them necessary. The immense size of the Sunday newspapers and the large amount of space devoted to liter- ary and scientific questions, has made it difficult to establish weekly papers on a paving basis in St. Louis. For many years the Spectator pros- pered and contributed to local literature a great deal of valuable and interesting matter. Its long career has, however, terminated, and the Sunday Mirror is now* practically in exclusive control of the weekly press. The Afirror differs in its make-up and character from any other western publication. It knows neither friend nor foe in its columns, and is original and fearless in its st)le and policy, supplying, in a wav never filled before, a field which ought not to be overlooked in a city of t)00,000 in- habitants. •Decemlier, 1S93. ^m^im m^^^^^^^^msm^m mm^