^'% » S.^"^o, .v».. -^^ yj^% ^^^ sS" y'J^^ "^^ c^ .-1^1^ ^v .^' ..-•. <:'^ 'o . A * .0 o, *'7vr* *^ <*• '*>•** A^ ^^ (^ .^^^^<- -v^ ^ Ho^ >.^>m^: j.O'^^^ *««'>" ^^ 0* ^^^ ^O * •„ v./ /^I^\ -^^..^^ -'^^Va'. V..^ V\^ 'Cr^<=>- .^^^0^, 'o^ "'T7V* A A> ,.u.., -<^, .0 was 41,220, had increased to 121,37(5 in 1850, to 565,529 in 1860, and to 674,022 in 1874. Tlie commerce of Philadelphia is large and increasing, but manufactures are its chief source of Avealth, and in these, according to the census of 1870, it is the first city of the Union, surpassing New York in the number of establishments (8,184), in the number of hands employed (137,496), and in the amount of capital invested ($174,016,674). The products of the year 1870 were valued at $322,004,517. Hotels, Restaurants, aud Clubs. — The Continental, Chestnut St. cor. 9th St., is an excellent hotel with a front (of Pictou sandstone) 200 ft. long and six stories high ($4.50 per day). The Girard House, opposite on Chestnut St., is a handsome build- ing ($3.50). The Colonnade, Chestnut St. cor. 15th ($3.00), and the La Pierre, Broad cor. Chestnut St. ($3.50 per day), are up-town. The Bingham, cor. llth and Market Sts., aud the American, Chestnut St. near 5th, are much patronized by merchants ($3.00 per day). The St. Cloud ($3.00 a day) is in Arch St. between 7th and 8th; the St. Elmo ($2.50 a day), Arch St. near 3d; the Central ($2.00 a day). Arch St. below 7th ; and the Ridgway ($2.00 a day) at the foot of Market St. Guifs, cor. Chestnut and 7th, is on the European plan. Excellent boarding-houses may be obtained in all parts of the city ($6 to $12 per week). — In preparation for visitors to the Centennial Exposition several n&w hotels liave been put up in different parts of the city. The Glohe Hotel is a vast building directly adjoining the entrance to the Exposition grounds; and the Transcontinental, on a smaller scale, is opposite. The United States Hotel is an immense building, cor. Columbia Ave. and 42d St., one block from the entrance. The " Centennial Lodging-House Agency " has made special arrangements with the proprietors of boarding-houses and private residences, and undertakes to provide " rooms furnished equal to those of any hotel in the city, with 2 meals of superior quality, at daily prices of about one-half those charged by hotels." Its " coupons'" will be on sale at the principal railway-offices throughout the country, and the purchaser will be met on the train by a messenger who will locate him in one of the rooms at the disposal of the Agency. The best restaurants are the Continental Hotel Cafe, Chestnut St. near 9th ; Green's, 731 Chestnut St. near 7th; the International, 1220 Chestnut St.; and Aslie''8, 1027 Chestnut St. Good lunch-rooms and chop-houses may be found in the lower part of the city, in the neighborhood of Third St. The Union League Club owns a handsome building cor. Broad and Sansom streets ; it is of brick in the French Renaissance style, with facades of granite, brick, and brown-stone. It contains the best refectory in the city, a reading-room, paint- ings, statuary, etc. A member's introduction and tickets will secure the visitor the privileges of the club for one month. The Reform Club has a fine marble-front building in Chestnut St. near 16th. Railroad Depots. — Pennsylvania Central, 31st and Market Sts. ; Philadelpliia, Wilmington & Baltimore, Broad and Washington Ave. ; PhiladelfpMa & Reading, 13th and Callowhill Sts. ; North Pennsylvania, Berks and American Sts. ; West Chester & Philadelphia, 31st and Walnut ; Camden & Atlantic, Vine St. Ferry, j Modes of Conveyance. — The horse-car system of Philadelphia is unequaled, and ren- ders every part of the city easily accessible. The fare is 7c., and points on any connecting line may be reached by transfer-tickets (costing 2c. additional), which should be called for on paying the fare. Carriages are found at all the depots, and at stands in various parts of the city. The fares are regulated by law, and a card containing them should be in every carriage. They are as follows: for 1 passenger, a distance of one mile or less, 75c. ; 2 passengers, $1.25; each additional one, 25c.; for 1 passenger, 2 m. or less, $1.25 ; 2 passengers, $1.75 ; each additional mile, 50c. ; by the hour, $1.50. Children between 5 and 14 years of age, half price. In case of dispute, call a policeman, or apply at the Mayor's office. Ferriej^. — There are four ferries to Camden, N", J. : from foot of Market St., from foot of Vine St., from South St., and from Shackamaxon St. in West Philadelphia PHILADELPHIA. 25 (fare 5c.). One from South St. to Gloucester, N. J. (tare 5c.). And one from South St. to Red Bank, N. J. (tare lOc). Streets and Drives.— Tlie great business thoroughfare is MarletSt. ; it runs E. and W., is 100 ft. wide, and contains the principal wholesale stores. Broad St., the central street N. and S., is 113 ft. wide, and is lined with churches and elegant pri- vate residences. Each of these streets is built up continuously for about 4 m. Chestnut St., parallel with Market on the S., is the fashionable promenade, containing the finest hotels and retail stores. Lombard, farther S., and Arch, Race, and Vine, N. of Market, are leading and wealthy streets. Third St. is the banking and finan- cial centre. The principal drives are through Fairmount Park, and out Broad St. to w a r d Germ ant o w n . Objeets of Antiquarian Interest.— Philadelphia is peculiarly rich in relics of its early history. The oldest of these is the Old Swedes^ Church (in Swanson St., below Christian), which was built in 1700, to take the place of a log structure erected in 1677. It is of brick, and is still regularly used. Surrounding the church is a ceme- tery, in which gravestones dating from 1700 may be seen. Penn's Cottage^ a little two-story brick house, stands on Letitia St., a few doors S. of Market ; it was built for Penn before his arrival in the settlement, and curiously enough has withstood the march of improvement that has swept away so many more pretentious structures. A few steps from this, on the S. W. cor. of Front and Market Streets, stands a small brick house, now used as a tobacco-shop; a hundred years ago it was the celebrated "London Coftee-House," frequented by the magnates of the city. It was built in 1702. Treaty Monument, a simple obelisk upon a granite pedestal, cor. Beach and Hanover streets (Kensington), marks t\\Q site of the old elm-tree under which Penn made his memorable treaty with the Indians. The tree was blown down in 1810. Christ Church (Episcopal), in 2d St., near Market, was begun in 1727. and is still a fine building and in i)erfect preservation. Its steeple is 106 ft. high, and contains the oldest chime of bells in America. Two services are h^ld in tlie church on Sun- day, and it is open for prayers on Wednesdays and Fridays, at 11 a. m., at which times it may be visited. On the S. side of Chestnut St., between 3d and 4th, a nar- row court leads to Carpen- ter's Hall, where assembled the first Congress of the United Colonies. It is a plain two-story brick build- ing, surmounted by a cupola. The most interesting object in Philadelphia is Indepen- dence Hall, in Chestnut St., betw^een 5th and 6th. It w^as commenced in 1729 and completed in 1735, at a cost of £5,600. In the E. room (Independence Hall proper) the Continental Congress met, and here on the 4th of July, 1776, the Declaration of Independence was adopt- ed and publicly proclaimed from the steps on the same day. The room presents the same appearance now as it did at^hat time ; the furniture is that used by Congress, there are a statue of WashingtSi, numerous portraits and pictures, 'and many curious Revolution- 26 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. ary relics. Here also is preserved the old "Liberty Bell," the first bell rung in the United States after the passage of the Declaration. In Congress Hall, in the second story, Washington delivered his farewell address. Visitors are admitted between 9 a. m. and 4 p. m. daily. The Superintendent will, on application, furnish tickets admitting the bearers to the steeple, from w^hich a fine panoramic view of the city may be had. On the sidewalk in front of the Hall stands Bailley's statue of Washington. Rultzheimer^s New House, where Jefterson penned the Declaration of liidc'pcudence, is still standing at the S. W. corner of Market and 7th Streets. Fraiihliii's Grave is at the S. E. corner of Arch and 5th streets. Iron railings have been substituted for tlie brick wall of the cemetery opposite the grave, so that the visitor may look in. N"o. 239 Arch St. is noticeable as the place where the first American flag was made. Public and Proniiiieiit Buildings. — The Post- Office^ a plain white marble building, is in Chestnut St. below 5th. A very large new building for this purpose is in pro- cess of construction at the cor. of 9th and Chestnut Streets. It is to be of granite in the French Renaissance style, four stories high, with an iron dome. The new Pahlic Buildings (for law-courts and pubhc offices) is being erected on what was once Penn Square, at Broad and Market Streets. It will be an enormous structure, 486i ft. long by 470 wide, four stories 1 1 i g h , and covering an area of near- ly 4|^ acres, not includ- ing a court- yard in the centre 200 ft. square. The central tow^- er will be 450 ft. high. The exterior walls are to be of white marble, and those facing the court- yard of light Pul,lu li.nl.lm^s eo, Bn. ul u>d MuUt Ms bluC marble. The Custom-Home, tormerly the United States Bank, on Chestnut St. between 4th and 5th, is a chaste specimen of the Doric order of architecture, modeled on the Parthenon at Athens, with the omission of the colonnades at the sides. The Chest- nut St. and Library St. fronts have each eight massive fluted columns, supporting a lieavy entablature. The United States Mint, Chestnut St. cor. Juniper, is a white- marble building in the Ionic style, with a graceful portico. The processes of coining are very interesting, and the collection of coins preserved here is the largest and most valuable in the Union. Visitors are admitted to the Mint during each secular day from 9 to 12 o'clock, and the processes pointed out by an attendant. The United States Naml Asylum, on Gray's Ferry Road near South St., is an immense marble building standing in the midst of spacious and highly-cultivated grounds. The Ionic portico, with 8 iiraceful columns, the trophy cannon, and the official resi- dences, are worthy of notice. There are two U. 8. Arsenals, one a short distance S. E. of the Naval Asylum, and the other near Frankford (reached by the red cars of the 2d and 3d St. line). The former is devoted to the manufacture of shoes, equipments, and clothing for the array ; the latter is devoted to the manufacture of fixed ammunition, and contains one of the largest powder-magazines in the United il PHILADELPHIA. 27 States. The Eastern Penitentiary, in Fairmoiint Ave. above 22d St., covers about 10 acres of ground, and in architecture resembles a baronial cnstle of the middle ages. The separate {not solitary) system is adopted here, but is modified to the extent of confining two prisoners in each of the larger cells whenever the prison is crowded. Each prisoner is furnished with work enough to keep him moderately busy; and is allowed to see and converse with the chaplain, prison-inspectors, and other officials, but not with any of his fellow-prisoners. Tickets of admission are obtained at the Ledger office. The County {Moyameiising) Prison^ 11th St. and Passyunk Road, is a spacious granite building in the ludo-Gothic style, appropriated to the confinenient of persons awaiting trial, or who are sentenced for short periods. Tickets at Ledger office. The House of Refuge is in 22d St. near Poplar. Admission every afternoon except Saturday and Sunday. Tickets at Ledger office. The Merchants' Exchange, cor. 3d and Walnut, is a fine marble building, with an ornamental front on Dock St., a semicircular colonnade of 8 pillars, and a spacious rotunda within on that side. The Eeading-Room in the rotunda of the second story is handsomely frescoed. The Commercial Exchange^ 2d St. below Chestnut, of brown-stone in the Roman-Gothic style, stands on the site of the old "slate-roof house," once the residence of William Penn. The Ledger Building;, Chestnut St. cor. 6th, is regarded as one of the city sights. It is of brown-stone, 5 stories high, with Mansard roof, and is one of the most perfectly appointed newspaper-offices in world. A short distance to the E., in Market St. above 7th, is the large six- story publish- ing-house of J. B. Lippincott & Co. The Girard Na- tional BanTc^ 8d St. below Chestnut, is a stately edifice with Ijandsome portico, origi- nally built for the first United States Bank " Landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth " (E.), the " Conflict of Daniel Boone with the Indians" (S.), and the "Rescue of Captain John Smith by Pocahontas" (W._)„ The floor is of freestone, supported by arches of brick, resting upon two concentric- peristyles of Doric columns in the crypt below. The Do7ne rises over the Rotunda in the centre of the Capitol, and is the most imposing feature of the vast pile. The WASHINGTON. 43 interior measures 9H ft. in diameter, and 220 ft. from the tioor to the ceiling. Ex- ternally it is 135|^ ft. in diameter, and rises 241 ft. above the roof of the main build- ing, 307|- ft. above the base-line of the building, and 377 ft. above low tide. Visitors should not fail to make the ascent of tlie Dome. A spiral stairway between the outer and inner shells (diverging to the 1. from the corridor outside the N. door of the Rotunda) atfords easy access, and gives a favorable opportunity for inspecting from different points of view the fresco-painting on the canopy overhead. This is the work of Brumidi; it covers 6,000 ft. of space and cost $40,000. It consists of a portrait of Washington in a sitting posture. To his r. is seated the Goddess of Liberty, and on the 1. a female figure representing Victory and Fame proclaiming Freedom. In a semicircle is a group of females representing the original sister colonies, bearing aloft a banner on which is inscribed the national motto (" E Pin- rihm Umim''^). Surrounding this under-circle, near the base of the design, are 6 groups representing War, Agriculture, Mechanics, Commerce, the >avy, and Sci- ence. In the latter group the figures of Franklin, Fulton, and Walter, occupy prom- inent places. All the figures (63 in number) are of colossal i)roportions, so as to appear life-size when seen from the floor beneath. From'the balustrade at the base of the canopy is obtained a magnificent view of the city and the surrounding coun- try. From the gallery immediately underneath the fresco gallery another spiral stairway leads up to the lantern (17 ft. in diameter and 52 ft. high). This is sur- mounted by the tholus, or ball, and this in turn by Crawford's fine bronze statue of Liberty, 16|- ft. higli. — Leaving the Rotunda by the S. doorway, the visitor finds himself in the Old Hall of Bepresentatives (now used as a "National Statuary Hall "). This room, the noblest in the Capitol, is semicircular in form, 96 ft. long and 57 ft. high to the a[)ex of the ceiling. The 24 cohimns which support the entablature are of variegated green hreccia^ or pudding-stone, from the Potomac Val- ley ; and the ceiling is painted in panel, in imitation of that of the Pantheon at Rome. Light is admitted tlirough a cupola in the centre of the ceiling. Over the S. door is a statue of Liberty, by Causici, and an eagle by Valaperti. Over the N. door is a statue by Franzoni representing History standing in a winged car, the wheel of which, by an ingenious device, forms the dial of a clock. In 1864 the Hall was set apart to receive statues of eminent Americans ; each State being requested to send statues of two of its most eminent men. New York has sent George Clinton (bronze), and Robert W, Livingston (marble) ; Rhode Island, Roger Williams and General Greene (both marble) ; and Connecticut, Jonathan Trumbull and Roger Sherman (both marble). Massachusetts is to send Winthrop and Samuel Adams; Maryland, Charles Carroll and Roger B. Taney; and New Jersey, General Philip Kearney and Richard Stockton. Houdon's Washington and Stone's Hamilton, some busts and portraits of minor importance, and Moran's great painting of the '' Grand Caiion of the Yellowstone," further adorn the Hall. — The corridor to the S. leads to the present Hall of Representatives^ the finest legislative chamber in the work\, 139 ft. long, 93 ft. wide, and 36 ft. high. Tlie ceiling is of iron-work, with 45 stained glass panels on which are painted the arms of the States. To the 1. of the marble desk of the Speaker is a full-length portrait of Lafavette, and to tlie r. a full-length portrait of Washington by Vanderlyn. The Strangers' Gallery (reached by two grand marble stairways) extends entirely round the hall ; the space not specially appropriated for the use of the diplomatic corps and tlie reporters for the press is open to visitors. The Spealcers Room^ immediatel}' in rear of his desk, is a richly-decorated apartment. From the S. lobby of the Hall two stairways descend to the basement, where are located the Refectory and committee -rooms. The room of the Committee on Agriculture will repay a visit; the walls and ceiling are painted in fresco by Brumidi. — The Senate Chamber, reached by the corridor leading N. from the Rotunda, is somewhat smaller than the Hall of Representa- tives, being_113i ft- long, 80i ft. wide, and 36 ft. high. It is very tastefully fitted up. The visitors' galleries are reached by marble stairways, which are among the most striking architectural features of the Capitol. The President's and Vice- President's Rooms, the Senators' Retiring-Room, the Reception-Room, and the Senate Post-Office, are beautiful chambers. The Marble Room is particularly chaste 44 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. and rich in its decorations; senators alone have the privileue of allowing visitors to enter it. The Vice-President's Eoom coutains Rembrandt Peale's portrait of Washington. In the basement of the Senate Extension are committee-rooms, richly frescoe d and furnished, and the corridors are exciiiisitely painted. — The Suiiireme- Gourt Boom (formerly the Senate-Chamber) is reached by the corridor leading N. from the Eotimda. It is a semicircular apartment, 75 ft. long and 45 ft. high, deco- rated ^Yith rich Ionic columns of Potomac marble, and with busts of the former Chief- Justices. Visitors are admitted during the sessions of the Court (October to May, 12 to 4 p. m.). Underneath the room is the apartment formerly occupied by the Court and now devoted to the Law Library (30,000 volumes). — The Library of Congress is reached by the corridor from the W. door of the Rotunda. It occupies the entire W. projection of the Capitol ; the main room is 91 ft. long and 34 ft. wide, ceiled with iron, and fitted up with fire-proof cases. The Library was founded in 1800 ; was burned by the British in 1814 ; was again partially burned in 1851 ; and went into its present rooms in 1853. The collection, which is the largest in the United States, now numbers nearly 800,000 volumes, exclusive of pamphlets, and is increasing at the rate of 10,000 or 15,000 volumes a year. All copyright books are, by law, required to be deposited in this library, and the representation of American publications is by far the most complete in the country. It is also rich in foreign books in every department of literature. Books may be read in the library by visitors, but not taken away (open from 10 a. m. to 4 p. m.). — The light- ing, heating, and ventilating apparatus of the House and Senate Chambers are worthy of notice. The Executive Mausion (usually called the "White House") is in Pennsylvania Ave., 1|- m. AV. of the Capitol. It is of freestone, painted white, 170 ft. long and 86 ft. deep, two stories high, and was modeled after the palace of the Duke of Leinster. It was built in 1 792, but was so much injured during the occupation of the city by the Brit- ish in 1814 that extensive repairs were found necessary ; these were made in 1815. The iST. front has a deep portico ornamented with 10 Ionic columns ; under this, carriages drive to deposit visitors. The Potomac front has a circular colonnade of 6 Ionic columns. The "East Room" (open daily from 9 a. m. to 3 p. m.) is the grand parlor of tbe Presi- dent. It is a fine chamber, 80 ft. long, 40 ft. wide, and 20 ft. high, richly decorated and furnished. The Blue, Red, and Green Rooms are on the same floor, and are elegant in their appointments. The Executive Office and the Cabinet Room are on the 2d floor, as are also the private apartments of the family. S. of the Mansion is a pleasant park, tastefully laid out; in the centre of the lawn is a bronze sta'tue of Jeff'erson ; on the W. are extensive conservatories. The U.S. Treasury is just E. of the White House, at the cor. of Pennsylvania Ave. and 15th St. (open to visitors from 9 a. m. to 2 p. m.). It is the finest building for the purpose in the world. The E. front has an unbroken Ionic colonnade, 342 ft. long, modeled after that of the temple of Minerva at Athens. It was the first part built, and was commenced in 1836. The extension was begun in 1855, from designs by Walter, the architect of the Capitol extension. The extension flanks the old build- ing at each end with massive fronts, and the entire edifice is 582 ft. long by 300 ft. wide, and cost $6,000,000. The material of the old building is brown saiadstone, painted ; that of the extension is solid Dix Island granite, the W. front has side porticoes, and a grand central entrance with 8 monolithic columns of enormous size. The IST. and S. fronts are alike, and are adorned with stately porticoes. The building contains about 200 rooms, of which the finest is the Cash Room, extending through The stories and fined throughout with rich marbles in decorative combinations, two Gold Room, in which there is usually about $10,000,000 in gold coin, may be White i^ouse." WASHINGTON. 45 seen by permit from the Treasurer. The corridors are ornamented with colored marbles, and the stairways are imposing. Treasury Driiartiiii-nt. The War and Kavy Departments are plain brick buildings in iTth St., W. of the AVhite House, with nothing but their size to invite attention. A collection of flags and other trophies, ca])tured during the Civil War, will be found in both these De- partments ; the visitor's card, accompanied by a request, will insure the opportunity of seeing them. An immense building for the uses of the State, War, and Xav}^ Depart- ■. ^\'.:l^. and Xavy I'liiliiiui;-. •ments is now nearly finished. It fronts Executive Ave. between iTth and 18th Sts. (adjoining the buildings just mentioned), and is 567 ft. long and 342 ft. wide, four stories high, with lofty Mansard roof. The material is granite, and the building will be absolutely fire-proof. The State Department has already moved in, and occupies the 2d floor. The Department Library contains a fine collection of books, maps, and charts. 46 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. The Patent-Office, in which is located the office of the Interior Department, is one of the finest of the Government buildings. It occupies the entire block between 7th and 9th and F and H Sts., and is 410 ft. long and 275 ft. deep. It is of marble and whitened sandstone, in severe and massive Doric style, and has a portico on each of its four fronts. The F St. portico (main entrance) is reached by broad granite steps, and consists of 16 Doric columns of immense size, upholding a classic pediment. The interior of the building is admirably designed and handsomely finished. The Model-Room (open from 9 a. m. to 3 p. m.) occupies the entire upper floor of the edifice, forming 4 large halls or chambers unequaled for extent and beauty on the continent. The total length of this floor is 1,850 ft., or rather more than a quarter of a mile; and it is filled with cases containing immense numbers of models representing every department of mechanical art. The entire collection numbers over 120,000 articles. The frescoes on the ceihng of the S. HallVe much admired. In this room are cases containing a collection of Eevolutionary curiosities and relics, among which are the printing-press of Benjamin Franklin, and many of the personal effects of Washington, including the uniform worn by him when he re- signed his commission as Commander-in-Chief. Near these are cases for tlie preser- vation of medals and treaties w^ith foreign powers. Among the latter are treaties with Louis Philippe (1831), Louis XVI. (1778), and Louis XVIII. (1822). A fine collection of sabres, presented by the Bey of Egypt to Captain Perrie, U. S. N., in 1832, adorns the upper end of this case. — On the second or main floor are the offices of the Secretary of the Interior, the Indian Office, the General Land-Office, the Pension and Census Bureaus, and the office of the Commissioner of Patents. The General Post- Office^ opposite the S. front of the Patent-Office, is an imposing edifice of white marble in the Italian or modified Corinthian style. It is 300 ft. long, 204 ft. dee]), and three stories high, and cost $1,700,000. It was commenced in 1839, extended in 1855, under the direction of Mr. Walter, and finished in 1865. Monoliths of Carrara marble form the columns of the extension. The City Post- Office occupies the lower story of the F St. front. The whole upper portion is ap- propriated to the use of the General or United States Post-Office. The Dead-Letter Office (2d story) contains some curious objects. The Department of Agriculture (open from 9 a. m. to 3 p. m.) is situated on the Mall at the foot of 13th St. It is a handsome brick building in the Renaissance style, 170 ft. long and 3 stories high with Mansard roof, and contains a library, a Museum of Agriculture, an Herbarium (with 25,000 varieties of plants), and an Entomological Museum. The Flower-Gardens in front of the main building are adorned with statuary, and when in bloom are a truly glorious sight. N. of the main building is the Arboretum, and S. extensive Experimental Gardens. The Plant-Houses, AV. and S. of the main building, will repay a visit. The Botanical Gardens occupy the square immediately W. of the Capitol (entrance on 1st St.). These gardens are under the control of the Library Committee of Con- gress, and are free to visitors (open from 9 to 6). The vast conservatories belonging to them are filled with rare and curious plants, fruits, and flowers. The National Observatory is situated on high ground near the Potomac (at the foot of 24th St.), and commands a fine view of both Washington and Georgetown. The Observatory was founded in 1842, and is now one of the foremost institutions of the kind in the world. It possesses many fine instruments, including the largest equatorial telescope yet made, and a good library of astronomical works. Strangers are allowed to visit the Observatory at all hours, and to inspect the telescope and other instruments when they are not in use. The Signal- Office^ the headquarters of the Weather Bureau, is on G St., near the War Department. The instruments used here are of the most delicate description. The Hydrographic Office is in an old building called the Octagon, at the cor. of New York Ave. and 18th St. It pre- pares charts and sailing-directions. The U. 8. Arsenal is located in the midst of pleasant grounds on Greenleaf's Point, at the confluence of the Potomac and the Eastern Branch. The present buildings were erected in 1814 by Colonel Bomford, and contain vast stores of arms and ammunition. Near the centre of the grounds is an immense park of artillery, WASHINGTON. 47 containing- nearly 1,000 cannon of all sizes and descriptions. In front of the old bar- racks is a trophy-battery, containing British, French, Mexican, and Confederate guns, captured in battle. The Ordnance Musenm is on the 2d floor of Winder's Building, cor. F and 17th Sts. It contains captured battle-flags, cannon and small-arms, am- munition of all kinds, uniforms and military equipments, trophies, and models of field and fortress artillery in position, and of fortifications. The Navy-Yard is situated on the Eastern Branch, about IJ m. S. E. of the Capitol. It has an area of 27 acres, inclosed by a substantial brick wall, and entered by a portal designed by Latrobe. Within the inclosure, besides homes for the officers, are shops and warehouses, 2 large ship-houses, and an armory— which, like the rest of the establishment, is kept in the flnest order. Upon entering, the visitor is re- quired to register his name at the oflEice, after which he can ramble through the buildings at his leisure, under the escort of a guide. He should not fail to inspect the ordnance-foundery and shops where the manufacture of guns, shot, and shells, is usually going on. Leaving the Foundery he should go to the Museum, where there is an interesting collection of fire-arms, warlike munitions, and relics. At other points in the yard are collections of guns and other trophies, captured during war or otherwise acquired. An interesting feature is the Experimental Battery, where experiments in the science of naval gunnery are carried on ; and still another promi- nent object is the fleet, including several Monitors, Torpedo-Boats, and Iron-clads. — Two squares X. of the Navy- Yard are the Marine Barracks^ the headquarters of the U. S. Marine Corps; and in the immediate vicinity of the same is the Marine Hospital., for sick and disabled sailors. ^- , ^' Washington Monument. — This monument, which was to have been the loftiest and finest in the world, is, in its present unfinished state, rather a blemish than an orna- ment to the city. The design contemplated a shaft 600 ft. high, with an ornamented base, modeled after the Pantheon at Rome, 250 ft. in diameter and 100 ft. high, to be surrounded by a colonnade of 30 Doric columns, with suitable entablature and balustrade. Within the base or " Temple," statues of Revolutionary heroes and relics of Washington were to have been placed, and the whole interior elaborately adorned with finely-carved stones sent by the difterent States, by foreign govern- ments, and by societies. Many of these blocks are beautiful specimens, worthy of inspection ; they are contained in a shed near the structure. The monument is now 174 ft. high and has cost $230,000. It is doubtful whether it will ever be com- pleted, as $1,200,000 are necessary to do so. It is proposed to demolish it and con- struct a grand triumphal arch from the materials (located on the W. end of the Mall, above 14th St.). — Mill's colossal equestrian Statue of Washington stands within the circle formed by the junction of Pennsylvania and New Hampshire Aves. and 23d and K Sts. The head and face of Washington are from a bust by Houdon, taken in Washington's lifetime, and are considered very natural. "The horse is represented as shrinking back before the destructive fire of the enemy [at the battle of Princeton], wliile the rider surveys the scene with the calmness and resolution w'hich know no fear when honor and duty are at stake." H. K. Browne's colossal equestrian Statne of General Scott, cast from captured Mexican cannon and completed in 1874 at a cost of $20,000, stands in Massachusetts Ave. above 14th St. It is a noble work. The pedestal is made of 5 enormous granite blocks, 2 of which are said to be the largest quarried stones in the world, ex- cept those in the ancient walls of Jerusalem and Baalbek. Theatres and Places of Amusement.— The Kational Theatre, on E. St. near 14th, is the principal in the city, and has a good stock-company. Fordh Opera-Home^ 9th St. near Pennsylvania Ave., accommodates about 1,500 persons and produces comedy and melodrama. Lincoln Hall, cor. 9th and D Sts., is the finest in the city, and the one generally used for concerts, lectures, readings, etc. In Masonic Hall (F and 9th Sts.) public parties and balls are frequently given. Odd-Fellotcs' Hall is in 7tli St., between D and E ; Willard's Hall in F St. near 14th ; and Metzerott Hall in Pennsylvania Ave. between 9th and 10th Sts. Libraries, Art-Galleries, etc. — The Library of Congress has already been described {see p. 44). The excellent library and reading-rooms of the Young Men''s Christian 48 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. Association (cor. 9th and D Sts.) are open to visitors from 9 a. m. to 10 p. m. The WasMngton Library (in 11th St.) was incorporated in 1814, and numbers 15,000 vohimes. The Patent- Office Library is rich in scientific and mechanical works. At the offices of the Washington correspondents of leading American newspapers (on Newspaper Row near the cor. of 14th and F Sts.) files of newspapers are usn- allv accessible to the visitor. The Corcoran Gallery of Art, at the cor. of Pennsylvania Ave. and 17th St., is a lame fire pioot buck .md l>i ou n-«!tone bnilduiir m the decorated Renaissance style. - It was founded by W, W. Corcoran, f- ilie banker, who deeded it to the peo- I le and presented it with his superb I mate art-collection. It contains up- ] ^ \\ ai d of 1 00 paintings, some of them i^terpieces ; a fine collection of casts md statuary, among the latter Hiram Pow ers's famous " Greek Slave ; " the iichest collection of bronzes in Ameri- ( a and specimens of bric-a-brac^ por- ( elam, and majolica-ware. Admission ee on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sat- in davs; on other davs, 25 c. (imrches. — The ^ CkitJieclral of St. \loysius (Roman Catholic), at the cor. <>t X. Capitol and I Sts., is celebrated r the excellence of its choir. The ixterior of the church is plain, but its interior decorations are very rich, the muble altar being especially worthy ot notice. St. MattJiew''s, usually at- tended by the Catholic members of the Diplomatic Corps, is E. of Lafayette Square. St. Dominic's (Roman Catholic) is a largo granite structure cor. 6th and F Sts. St. John's (Episcopal), fronting Lafayette Square on the N"., is a famous old church attended by Presidents Madison, Monroe, and Jackson. The Church of the Ejnphcmy (E[)iscopal) is in G St., be- tween 13th and 14th. The Metropolitan Methodist, cor. 4i and D Sts., is an imposing brown-stone building, which cost $250,000. It possesses one of the finest chimes of bells in the United States. The Mount Vernon Method- ist is at the cor. of 9th and K Sts. ; and the Foundry Methodist is in F St. near 14th. The First Presbyterian is in 41 St. near C St. ; and tlie JSf. Y. Avenue Pre,^ h/terian in N. Y. Ave near 14th St. Edncatlonal and Cliari table Instltntions. — T h t Smitbsonian Sn^titntion, i beautiful building of red sandstone in tlie Noi man or Romanesque style, stands on the Mall between the Capitol and the Department of Agriculture, and is surrounded by inclosed grounds 52|- acres in extent. (The easiest approach WASHINGTON. 49 from Pennsylvania Ave. is by 7th St.) This noble institution was founded by James Smithson, an Englishman, ''for the increase and diffusion of knowledge among men." Tlie building was connnenced in 1847 and completed soon after. It is 447 ft. long by 150 wide, and has 9 towers ranging from 75 to 150 ft. in height. It contains a museum of natural history with numerous and valuable specimens, arranged in a series of spacious halls; and metallurgical, mineralogical, and ethno- logical collections, with many curiosities. The grounds attached to the Insti- tution were laid out by Downing, the eminent landscape-gardener, to whose men- ory a rich vase of Italian marble has been erected by the Pomological Society. Visitors are admitted to the Institution from 9 a. m. to 4 p. m. Columhian Unirer- Hity, in 14th St. near the city limits, is a flourishing Baptist institution, with aca- demical, law, and medical departments. The buildings are finely situated on the crest of a hill commanding extensive vieAvs. Howard University is on the 7th St. Road just beyond the city limits. It was founded in 1867 for the education of youth '" without regard to sex or color," but its students, 700 in number, are nearly all negroes. The University building is a large structure of brick, painted white, situated on elevated ground, and surmounted by a tower from which there is a fine view of the city and its environs. The Louise Home, near the cor. of 17th St. and Massachusetts Ave., is an ele- gant building erected by Mr. W. W. Corcoran at a cost of $200,000 to aflford a home to impoverished elderly ladies of education and good family. It is liberally endowed. The Soldiers'^ Home (for disabled soldiers of the regular army) occupies an elevated plateau 3 m. X. of the city (reached by 7th St. horse-cars). It consists of several marble buildings in the Norman style, of wTiich the main one is 600 ft. long. A fine park of 500 acres surrounds the buildings. It has been the custom of the Presidents since Pierce's administration to occupy one of the smaller build- ings of the Home as a summer-resort, and here President Lincoln passed some of the last hours of his eventful term. N. of the Asylum grounds is one of the National Cemeteries, in which 5,424 soldiers are buried. The isylmn "v the Insane (of the Army, Navy, anr" Dif^ ict of Columbia) occupies one of the highest emi- nences ^ the vicinity Wa&hingtoi (reached by crossing the Navy-Yard bridge and ascending the heights beyond Union tc-^m). The building is an immense struct- ure, 711 ft. long, in the collegiate Gothic s and stands in grounds 400 acres in extent. The GolumMa Institvt^onfor the x . f and Pvml) occupies the old ?. ' -11 Green estate N. E. o!" the city, it fnrnis'hes iistrudon lo botli »exes, an j a, collegiate department. The rnain "/'^.^-^.iiLg -s :i handsome specimen of Gothic ; :J.- tecture. Public Squares, Cemeteries, etc. — The finest pubHc square in the city is v^^^e Square in Pennsylvania Ave. N. of the White House. It is laid out :: ling paths and filled "^with trees and shrubbery. In the centre stands Cia^ Mills's bronze equestrian statue of General Jackson, cast from cannon taken by Jackson in his battles with the British and Spaniards. The statue is remarkable for its delicate balancing, which was effected by making. the flanks and tail of the horse of solid metal. The Capitol Grounds have already been described. Judiciary Square lies N. of the City Hall on 4| St. At the cor. of Connecticut Ave. and I St. is Farra- gut Square, which is soon to be adorned with a statue of Admiral Farragut. Raw- lins Square is a pretty little inclosure on New York Ave. near 18th St, The Congressional Cemetery is about 1 m. E. of the Capitol, near the Eastern Branch. Its situation is high, and commands fine views. It contains several mon- uments of interest, among which are those of George Clinton, Elbridge Gerry, Wil- liam Wirt, Major-General Macomb, Major-General Jacob Brown, Commodore Chauncey, and Hon. A. P. Upshur. There are about 150 cenotaphs erected to the memory of Congressmen who have died during their term of service. Glenwood, a pleasant rural burying-ground, lies about 1 m. N. of the Capitol. Gale Hill Ceme- tery will be described in connection with Georgetown. — The celebrated Long Bridge crosses the Potomac into Virginia from foot of 14th St. It is a shabby wooden structure about 1 m. long. Benning^s Bridge and Navy- Yard Bridge cross the Eastern Branch into Maryland. 50 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. Georgetown {Union Hotel) is an old and picturesque town, distant but 2 ni. from the Capitol, and divided only by Kock Creek from Washington City, with which it is connected by 4 bridges and 2 hnes of horse-cars. The town is beautifully situ- ated on a range of hills which command a view unsurpassed in the Potomac Valley. It was laid out in 1751 by act of the colonial government of Maryland, and was in- corporated in 1789. It is the port of entry of the District, and a line of steamships phes between it and jSTew York. One of the chief points of interest is Georgetown College^ at the W. end of the town. This is an old institution of learning (founded in 1789 and incorporated as a university in 1815), and the most famous belonging to the Roman Catholic Church in the United States. It is under the control of the Jesuits. The buildings are spacious, and contain a library of 30,000 volumes, among which are some extremely rare and curious books, some beautifully illuminated missals, and some rare old MSS. ; an astronomical observatory ; and a museum of natural history. In the rear of the college is a picturesque rural serpentine walk, commanding fine views. The Convent of the Visitation (in Fayette St, near the College) was founded in 1799, and is the oldest house of the order in America. It consists of several fine buildings in a park of 40 acres. Visitors admitted between 11 A. M. and 2 p. m. The Aqueduct^ by which the waters of the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal are carried across the Potomac, will repay inspection. It is 1,446 ft. long and 36 ft. high, with 9 granite piers, and cost $2,000,000. There is a carriage-way above the water-course. The canal extends 184 m. to Cumberland, Md., and cost $13,000,000. Oak Hill Cemetery, on the N. E. slopes of the Heights, though con- taining but 30 acres, is one of the most beautiful in the country. It contains an elegant Gothic chapel with stained-glass windows and completely overgrown with ivy ; the massive marble mausoleum of W. W. Corcoran ; and several notable mon- uments. Many eminent men are buried here, among them Secretary Stanton and Ohief-Justice Chase. Arlington House, once the residence of George Washington Parke Custis, the last survivor but one of the Washington family, and later of Gen. Robert E. Lee, occu- pies a commanding position on the Virginia side of the Potomac, nearly opposite Georgetown. It stands more than 200 ft. above tide-water, and the view from the portico is among the best this part of the river affords. The lower rooms of the mansion are open to the public, but contain nothing of interest, the collection of pictures and relics having been removed. In the office of the Superintendent a register is kept for visitors, and a record of all who are buried in the National Cem- eteries now located on the place. Near the house, and bordering the drive ap- proaching from the S., are the graves of a number of officers who died during the war. Close by is a low, massive granite monument under which is a vault contain- ing the bones of 2,111 unknown soldiers, gathered after the war from the battle- fields between Bull Run and the Rappahannock. Near this is an amphitheatre with sittings for 5,000 persons, where are held the annual services of Decoration- day. The graves of the white soldiers are W. of the house; those of the colored troops and refugees about ^ m. N. There are about 15,000 in all. In the eastern division of the first Cemetery, within a small inclosure, are the monuments of George Washington Parke Custis and his wife Mary L. Custis. Arlington may be reached by way of the Long Bridge, or by the iiqueduct Bridge from Georgetown. Alexandria is situated on the S. side of the Potomac 7 m. below Washington (reached by railroad, or by ferry-boats hourly from 7th St. wharf). It is a quaint old town, dating from 1748, and is intimately associated with the life and name of Washing- ton. In Christ Church (cor. Washington and Cameron Sts.) the pew in which he sat (No. 59) is an object of much interest. Pew No. 46 was occupied by General Robert E. Lee when he resided at Arlington before the war. The Museum, Court- House, Odd-Fellows' Hall, and Theological Seminary, are among the prominent buildings. On the outskirts of the city is a National Cemetery in which nearly 4,000 soldiers are buried. Monnt Vernon is 15 m. below Washington, on the Virginia side of the Potomac, and is reached by steamers which leave the 7th St. wharf daily at 10 a. m. (fare for the round trip, including admission to the grounds, $1.50). The sail down the river is NEW YORK TO ALBANY. 51 delightful, and affords excellent views of the country around Washington. Mount Vernon, then tnown as the "Hunting Creek estate," was bequeathed by Augustine Washington, who died in 1743, to Lawrence Washington. The latter named it after Admiral Vernon, under whom he had served in the Spanish wars, and for whom he cherished a strong affection George Washington inherited the estate in 1752. The central part of the mansion, which is of wood, was built by Lawrence and the wings by George Washington. It contains many interesting historical relics, among which are the key of the Bastile, presented by Lafayette, portions of the military and personal furniture of Washington, portraits, and Rembrandt Peale's painting of " Washington before Yorktown." The Tomt of Washington stands in a retired situation near the mansion. It is a plain but solid brick structure, with an iron gate, through the bars of which may be seen the marble sarcophagi containing the remains of George and Martha Washington. The Mount Vernon domain (includ- ing the mansion and 6 acres), which had remained since the death of Washington in the possession of his descendants, was purchased in 1856 for the sum of $200,000, raised by subscription, under the auspices of the "Ladies' Mount Vernon Associa- tion," aided by the efforts of Edward Everett. It is, therefore, and will continue to be, the property of the nation. NEW YORK TO ALBANY. ( Via steamer up the Hudson Eiver. Distance, 143 m. Time, 10 hrs. Fare, $2. The day-boats start from the pier foot of Vestry St. at 8.45 a. m. and from 34th St. 5 minutes later. The night-boats from foot of Canal St. at 6 p. M. Also via Hudson Kiver E. K. Distance, 144 m, Time, 5 hrs. Fare, $3.10. The steamer ^ves the better opportunity for viewing the scenery). --_^ This journey will afford the traveler advantageous views of some of the most picturesque scenery in America. The Hudson has been compared to the Ehine, and what it lacks in crumbling ruin and castle-crowned steep it more than makes up by its greater variety and superior size. George WiUiam Curtis says of it : " The Danube has in part glimpses of such grandeur, the Elbe has sometimes such deli- cately-penciled effects; but no European river is so lordly in its bearing, none flows in such state to the sea." The first few miles of the steamer's course afford fine views of the harbor and city, of the Jersey shore, and the northern suburbs. Before the city is fairly left behind, the Palisades loOm up on the 1., a series of grand precipices rising in many places to the height of 300 ft. and stretching in unbroken line along the river-bank for more than 20 m. The rock is trap, columnar in formation, and the summit is thickly wooded. In striking contrast with the desolate and lonely appearance of these cliffs, the right bank presents a continuous succession of beautiful villas stand- ing in the midst of picturesque and exquisitely-kept grounds, with a frequent sprinkling of villages and hamlets. Yonkers (17 m.) is a fashionable suburban town beautifully situated at the mouth of the Neperan or Saw-Mill River. It is an an- cient settlement, and w^as the home of the once famous Phillipse family, of which was Mary Philhpse, Washington's first love. The Manor-House, a spacious stone edifice built in 1682, is still to be seen. In 1777 a naval action occurred in front of Yonkers between the American gunboats and the British frigates Ross and Phoenix. Piermont (22 m.) is on the 1. bank at the end of the Palisades; it takes its name from a pier 1 m. long which runs out from the shore to the deej) channel. Three m. S. W. of Piermont is the old town of lappan^ interesting as having been one of Washington's chief headquarters during the Revolution, and also as the spot where Major Andre was imprisoned and executed. The house occupied by Washington and the jail of the ill-fated officer are still in good preservation. On the r., 2 m. above Piermont, is the residence of Mr. Cottinct, builr of Caen stone, and said to be the most elegant house on the river. Just above, still on the r., is Irvington, named in honor of Washinsrton Irving, wiiose unique little stone cottage, Sunnyside^ is close by, on the margin of the river, but hidden from view by the dense growth of trees and shrubbery. The steamer has now entered the famous Tappan Zee^ in which the river broadens out into a beautiful lake 10 m. long and 3 m. wide at the widest part, surrounded by picturesque and pleasing scenery. Upon a high prom- 52 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. ontory to the r. stands the Paulding Manor^ the most conspicuous dwelling on the lower Hudson. It is of white marble in the pointed Tudor style. One and a half in. above is Tarrytown^ a prosperous town which has many attractions historical as well as scenic. It was at a spot now in the heart of the town that Andre was arrested, and Tarrytown witnessed many stormy tights between guerrillas on both sides during the Revolution. It takes its chief interest, however, from its associa- tion with Irving's life and memory. Here is the church which he attended and of which he was warden at the time of his death, here he is buried, and near by are the scenes of some of his happiest fancies. Opposite Tarrytown is Xyacli, a pretty little town prettily situated. Sing Sing (33 m.) is on the r. bank, occu]jying an elevated slope, and makes a fine appearance from the river. The State Prison is located here, and its huge stone buildings are conspicuous objects. Many fine country-seats crown the heights above and around Sing Sing ; and 4 m. above is Groton Point, a prominent headland dividing the Tappan Zee from Haverstraw Bay, another lake-like widening of the river. Passing this point, the Highlands begin to be visible in the distance. At the head of Haverstraw Bay are Stony Point, on the 1., a rocky peninsula on which are a lighthouse and the ruins of an old Revolutionary fort, and Verplanch'' s Point, on the r., notable as the spot where Hendrick Hudson's ship, the Half Moon, first came to anchor after leaving Yonkers. PeehsHll (43 m.) is a flourishing town at the mouth of the Peekskill or Annskill Creek. Opposite is GaldioelVs Landing, memorable for the search so seriously and actively made for the treasure which the famous Captain Kidd was supposed to have secreted at the bottom of the river here. Remains of the apparatus used for this purpose are still visible. At this point the river makes a sudden turn to the W., which is called the Race. We have now^ reached the Highlands, and for the next 16 m. the scenery is un- surpassed in the world. On the 1. is Dunder}>erg Mountain, and at its base a broad deep stream which, a short distance above its mouth, makes its descent to the river in a beautiful cascade. On the r. is Anthony''s Kose^ a rocky ])romontory rising to the height of 1,128 ft., and whose base has been tunneled by the railway a length of 200 ft. Two m. above (on the r.) is Sugar-Loaf Mountain, with an elevation of 865 ft. N"ear by, and reaching far out into the river, is a sandy blufl^ on which Fort Independence once stood. Farther on is lona Island, and in the extreme dis- tance Bear Mountain. Buttermilk Falls now come into view on the 1., descending over inclined ledges a distance of 100 ft. Just above, in the heart of the Highland Pass, is Cozzens's Hotel, a spacious and elegant summer hotel, situated on a high blufi". West Poi7it (51 in.), on account of its fjimous military school' and historic associations, and for its varied scenic attractions, is one of the most charming places on the Hudson, and the traveler should stop here for a day, at least, if he have time. The buildings occupy a broad plateau, 150 ft. above the river, and are reached by a steep and costly road cut out of the solid cliff- side. Cro''-]^est, above West Point, on the same side of the river, is one of the loftiest of the Highland group (1,428 ft.). It is the scene of Rodman Drake's poem, " The Culprit Fay." Storm King or Butter Rill (" Boterberg ") is the next mountain-crest, and the last of the Highland range upon the W. It is 1,529 ft. high. Between Cro'-ISTest and Storm King, and in the laps of both, is the lovely vale of Tempe. Cold Spring^ on the r., is an exceedingly picturesque village. It is built upon a steep ascent, and behind it is the massive granite crown of Bull Hill. Beyond Cold Spring, and still on the E. bank of the river, the Highland range is continued in the jagged preci- pices of the Breahneclc and Beacon Hill., in height, respectively, 1,187 and 1,685 ft. These mountains are among the most commanding features of the river-scenery. Cornwall, a rugged and picturesque little place on the 1. bank, is the chief summer- resort on the river. Here is the end of the Highlands, and the steamer enters the broad expanse of Xewburg Bay, on the 1. shore of which is Keichurg, a prosper- ous and beautifully-situated city of 18,000 inhabitants. Newburg was the theatre of many interesting events during the Revolution, and Washington's Headquarters, an old gray stone mansion, S. of the town, is still preserved. Opposite is Fishhill Landing^ a small but pretty village. PougMeepsie (75 ra.) is the largest city be- ALBANY. 53 tween N"ew York and Albany, and has 22,000 inhabitants. Its situation is com- manding and attractive, and the city makes a fine appearance from the river. Here are Yassar College and other famous educational institutions. Above Pough- keepsie, on either bank, are many pleasant towns and fine country-seats, among the latter, Rokeby, the estate of the late William B. Astor, and Montgomery Place^ the residence of Edward Livingston, and one of the finest on the Hudson. Catshill (110 m.) is the point where we leave the river to visit the celebrated Catskill Moun- tains, which for 10 m. have been looming up grandly on the I. Hudson (115 m.) is a flourishing town of 13,000 inhabitants, finely situated on the E. bank. The heights back of the town command noble views of the Catskill Mts. Between Hud- son and Albany there is nothing to call for special mention, though the scenery still remains pleasing. ALBANY. Hotels: Delavan House ($4.50 a day), in Broadway, near the R. H. depot; Con- gress Hall ($4 a day), near the Capitol ; Stanicix Hall ($3 a day) ; American ; City. ALBANY, the capital of New Y^ork State, is finely situated on the W. bank of the Hudson River at the head of sloop-navigation, and near the head of tide- water. It was founded by the Dutch, first as a trading-post, on Castle Island, Albany from Greenbusb. directly below the site of the present city, in 1614. Fort Orange was built where the city now stands, in 1623, and, next to Jamestown in Virginia, was the earliest European settlement in the original 13 States. The town was known as Beaver Wyck, and as Williamstadt, before it received its present name in honor of the Duke of York and Albany (afterward James IL), when it fell into the possession of the British in 1664. It was chartered in 1686, and made the State capital in 1798, since which time the population has increased from 5,349 (in 1800) to above 80,000 in 1875. Albany has a large commerce, from its position at the head of navigation on the. river, as the entrepot of the great Erie Canal from the "W., and the Cham- plain Canal from the N., and as the centre to which several important railroads con- verge. The boats of the canal are received in a great basin constructed in the 5 54 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. river, with the help of a pier 80 ft. wide and 4,300 ft. long. A liandsonie iron-truss railroad-bridge, 1,014 ft. long, spans the river from the foot of Exchange St. The Water- Works, built in 1852-'53, at a cost of $1,000,000, are worth seeing. State Street ascends in a steep grade from the water to the height crowned by Capitol Square, in which are the public buildings. The Old GapUol^ a plain brown- stone structure, built in 1807, is still occupied, but will be demolished as soon as the costly new Capitol is finished. The New Capitol, to the W. of the old, was com- ffl'u WW. liJH' '''' ■'^'''* U^t ft I: - •(. \ New Capitol. menced in 1871, and is slowly rising. It is of Maine granite, in the Renaissance style, and when completed will be the largest and most splendid edifice in America, excepting the Federal Capitol at Washington. Its site is on the most elevated ground in the city, and its tower, 320 ft. high, will be visible for many miles around. The State Library^ a handsome fire-proof building, fronting on State St., in rear of the old Capitol, contains 86,000 volumes, and an interesting col- lection of curiosities and historical relics, including Washington's dress-sword and pistol. State Hall., in Eagle St., built of white marble in 1843, at a cost of $350,000, contains several of the principal offices of State. The City Hall, in Eagle St., foot of Washington Ave., a beautiful structure of w^hite marble, was finished in 1832. It is 100 ft. front by 80 ft. deep, 3 stories high, and has a recessed portico in front of the second and third stories, supported by six Ionic columns. In S. Pearl St. is the new CAty Building, erected in 1870 at a cost of $200,000, and containing various offices of the city government. The Merchants' Exchange is a substantial structure at the foot of State St. The State Arsenal, cor. Eagle and Hud- son Sts., is a large, gloomy structure in the castellated style. Dudley Ohservatory., ALBANY TO ROCHESTER AND BUFFALO. 55 founded and liberally endowed by Mrs. Blandina Dudley, stands on Observatory Hill, near the IST. limits of the city. It has a valuable special library, and some fine instruments. The Medical College^ cor. Eagle and Jay Sts., is a prosperous institu- tion, with an extensive museum. Tbe Law School of the Albany University is near by, and is one of the best in the country. The State Normal School, ''for the edu- cation and practice of teachers of common schools in the science of education and the art of teaching," stands on the cor. of Lodge and Howard Sts. The Young Mens Association, 38 State St., has a library of 12,000 volumes and a well-su])plied reading-room. Apprentices'' Library has 5,000 volumes. The Ahany Institute, organized in 1791, has 9,000 volumes. The edifice in State St., where are deposited the public collections in Natural History, Geology, and Agriculture, is most inter- esting. Of the 54 churches in the city, the Cathedral of the iHiinacnIate Cooeeptiou, in Eagle St., and the Church of St. Joseph, cor. Ten Eroeck and 2(] Sts., are the most prominent structures. The Cathedral has sittings for 4,000 persons, and a powerful organ. The stained-glass windows, by Gibson, of New York, are among tlie ricliest in the country. St. Peter^s (Episcopal), cor. Lodge and State Sts., is a handsome structure, in the Gothic style, and has a service of communion-plate presented by Queen Anne for the Onondaga Indians. The Penitentiary, situated W. of the city, about 1 ra. from the Capitol, is a model prison, conducted on the contract system, and the only one in the State which is self-sn staining. In the N. part of the city, extending from Broadway to the river, surrounded by extensive and beautiful grounds, is the Van Rensselaer Manor-Honse, one of the most attractive town residences in the State, It is more than 200 years since the man- sion of the first Patroon was erected upon this spot, and portions.of the present house were built in 1765. Above the city, on the flats, is the Schuyler House, an exceed- ingly plain and antiquated dwelling. Here resided Colonel Peter Schuyler, the first Mayor of Albany, the Indian commissioner who took four Mohawk sachems to Eng- land and presented them to Queen Anne. The house was burned down in 1759, and immediately rebuilt, portions of the original w^alls remaining. In 1869, the old burial-grounds, penitentiary-grounds, almshouse tarm, and Washington parade- ground, in the W. part of the city, were set apart for a public park, to be known as " Washington Park ; " but little work on it has yet been done. Albany Pural Ceme- tery, a pleasant burial-ground, lies N. of the city. Greenlmsh is a populous sub- urb on the opposite side of the river. While in Albany, the traveler should embrace the opportunity to visit lYoy (6 miles above), a beautiful city of 46,000 inhabitants, noted for its extensive manu- factures, which include iron- works on the largest scale, car-works, and cotton, wool- en, hosiery, and shoe factories. There are several fine churches and public buildings, and many handsome private residences. The buildings of St. Joseph's Theological Seminary, on Mt. Ida, E. of the city, are noble specimens of Byzantine architecture. The great WatervUet Arsenal is also situated here ; there are 40 l)uildings in a park of 105 acres. Trov is reached from Albany bv either steam or horse cars. ALBANY TO ROCHESTER AND BUFFALO. ( Via New York Central R. R., distance 229 and 298 m, respectively.) The New York Central R. R. traverses trom E. to W. the entire length of the Empire State, passing through the rich midland counties. It has two termini at the eastern end, one at Albany and the other at Troy, the branches meeting after 17 m. at Schenectady. It then continues in one line to Syracuse, 148 m. from Albany, where it again divides and is a double route for the remainder of the way: the lower line, via Auburn and Canandaigua being looped up to the other at Rochester. The upper route is the more direct, and the one we shall now follow. The great Erie Canal traverses the State from Albany to Bufilalo, nearly in the same fine with the railroad. Schenectady, already mentioned as the point of junction between the two branch lines, is one of the oldest towns in the State, and is distinguished as the site of Union College, founded in 1795. The site of the present town once formed the council- 56 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. grounds of tlie Mohawks. Leaving Schenectady, the road crosses the Mohawk Kiver and the Erie Canal on a bridge nearly 1,000 ft. long. Little Falls (74 m.) is remarkable for a bold passage of the river and canal through a wild and most pict- uresque defile. The scenery includes the river, rapids, and cascades, the locks and windings of the canal, and the bridges ; and the glimpses far away up the valley of the Mohawk are especially beautiful. Itica (95 ra.) is a large and handsome city on the S. bank of the Mohawk, standing upon the site of old Fort Schuyler. The State Lunatic Asylum is located here, and consists of several stone edifices. The manufactures are extensive. Rome (110 m.) is a flourishing town of 11,000 in- habitants, and contains several fine buildings, the handsomest of which is the Semi- nary. Oneida (122 m.) is on the shore of Oneida Lake, a beautiful sheet of water, abounding in fish, and surrounded by some of the most fertile and highly-cultivated land in the State. Syracuse (148 m.) is one of the largest cities in the State, having a population of nearly 55,000. It is pleasantly situated on the S. end of Onondaga Lake, and contains the most extensive salt-manufactories in the United States. It is famous as the meeting-place of political and other conventions. Between Syra- cuse and Rochester, there are 7 small towns which need not be specially mentioned. Between Rochester and Buffalo, the only one calling for notice is Batama (261 ra. from Albany), which is the site of the State Institution for the Blind, one of the finest structures of its kind in the country. The town is laid out in broad streets, which are beautifully shaded.^ ROCHESTER. Hotels: The Oslorn House, in Main St.; the Brachett House and Congress Hall near the R. R. depot; the Clinton House^ in State St. EOCHESTER is situated on both sides of the Genesee River, 7 m. trom its mouth in Lake Ontario. Soon after it enters the city the river makes a rapid descent, there being a perpendicular fall of 96 ft. near the centre, and two others of 25 ft. and 84 ft. near the northern limit. It is to the prodigious water- power thus afforded that much of the prosperity of the city is attributable, and it contains several of the largest flour-mills in the country. Other important indus- tries are the production of clothing, boots and shoes, engines and boilers, agricultural implements, trees, and garden and flower seeds. The immense nurseries in which these latter are produced are well worth a visit (reached by South Ave.). Rochester was first settled in 1810, was incorporated as a city in 1834, and in 1875 had a popu- lation of 81,813. The streets are nearly all laid out at right angles, many of them are well paved with stone, and most of them are bordered with shade- trees. Nearly all the dwellings are built separate from each other, and surrounded by a bit of cul- tivated or ornamental ground. Main St. is the principal thoroughfare ; it is known as Buffalo St. in one part of its course. The new City Hall, in W. Main St., is a handsome building of gray lime- stone, 188 ft. long and 80 ft. wide, with a tower 175 ft. high. Back of this is the County Court-House^ of brick with limestone trimmings, three stories high. In the same vicinity is the new Free Academy., a large brick building with sandstone trim- mings, 4 stories high. At the cor. of Buffalo and State Sts. are the Powers Buildings, a tubular block of stores, built of stone, glass, and iron, 7 stories high. In the upper halls is a fine collection of paintings, and on the top is a tower (open to visitors) from which may be obtained a fine view of the city and its surroundings. Near the Powers Buildings is the Arcade., roofed over with glass and containing numerous shops. The finest church edifice in the city is St. Patriclc's Cathedral (Roman Catholic), which is in the Gothic style, of red sandstone trimmed with gray limestone. The University of Rochester was founded by the Baptists in 1850, and in 1875 had 9 professors and 160 students. It is situated in the E. part of the city (on University Ave.), where it has 23^ acres beautifully laid out, and occupies a massive building of red sandstone. The library contains 12,000 volumes, and the geological cabinets, collected by Prof. Henry A. Ward, are said to be the finest in the country. The library and cabinets are deposited in a handsome fire-proof [BUFFALO. 57 building recently finished. There is^ also a Baptist Theological Seminary^ founded in 1850. Its library numbers more than 10,000 volumes, including 4,000 which constituted the library of Nean- der, the German church histori- an. The Athe- ncBum^ in Buffa- lo St., has a li- brary of 20,000 volumes. The City Hospital (Buffalo St.) has a fine buildino- with accommo- dations for 120 yjatients. St. Mary's Hospital (in West Ave.) is an imposing- edifice of cut- stone wnth ac- commodations for 1,000 pa- tients. The Western House of Refuge^ a State institution, is an extensive brick building sur- rounded by grounds 42 acres in extent, about 1 m. N. from the centre of the city. Other points of interest are Mount Hope Cemetery, picturesquely situated on a group of rounded hills in the S. part of the city (reached by horse-cars); and the cut-stone Aqueduct^ 848 ft. long with a channel 45 ft. wide, by which the Erie Canal is car- ried across the Genesee River. The Genesee Falls are seen to the best advantage from the E. side of the stream. The railroad cars pass about 100 r(»ds S. of the most southerly fall, so that passen- gers in crossing lose the view. To view the scene properly, the visitor should cross the bridge over the Genesee above the mill, and place himself immediately in front of the fall. By descending a stairway to the bottom of the ravine the impressive- ness of the view is greatly increased. The first fall is 80 rods below the Aqueduct, and is 96 ft. high. From Table Rock, in the centre of it, Sam Patch made his last and fatal leap. The river below the first cataract is broad and deep, with occa- sional rapids to the second fall, w^here it again descends perpendicularly 25 ft. A short distance below is the third fall, wiiich is 84 ft. high. BUFFALO. Hotels. The best are the Mansion House and the Tifft House, in Main St. Good ones are Bonnyh Hotel, cor. Washington and Carrol Sts. ; and the Continental, near the depot. BUFFALO, the third city in size in the State of New York, is situated at the mouth of Buffalo Creek and head of Niagara River, at the E. end of Lake Erie, and possesses the largest and finest harbor on the lake. It is also the terminus of the Erie Canal, the New^ York Central R. R., and six other railroads connecting it with all parts of the country. The city has a water-front of about 5 miles, half of which is upon the Lake and half upon Niagara River. Its commerce is very large, as its position at the foot of the great chain of lakes makes it the entrepot for a large part of the trafiic between the East and the great Northwest. During the year 1872 the number of vessels entered and cleared w^as 10,303, with an aggregate tonnage of 4,678,058 tons. The manufactures are also large, the most important HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. being- of iron, tin, brass, and copper ware. Malting and brewing, for which the climate is highh- favorable, are extensively carried on, Buffalo was first settled in 1801 ; it became a military post during the War of 1812, and was burned by a force of Indians and British in 1814; and it was incorporated as a city in 1832. Since the completion of the Erie Canal in 1825 its growth has been very rapid, and in 1870 it had a population of 117,714. Pop. in 1875, 134,573. Buffalo, in the main, is handsomely built. Its streets are broad and straight, and for the most part laid out at right angles. Main^ Niagara, and Delaware Sts. are the principal thoroughfares. The streets in the more elevated portions of the city are bordered witli a profusion of shade-trees, and the more important avenues have many tine residences. Shade-trees adorn the public squares, 5 in all, named respec- Buflfalo, from tli.' s. tively Niagara, Lafayette Place, Franklin, Washington, Delaware Place, and Terrace Parks. A portion of the river-front is a bold bluff, 60 ft. above the level of the river, and the more elevated portions afford fine vieAvs of the city, river, lake, Canada shore, and the hilly country to the S. E. The prominent public buildings are: the Custom-House and Post-Office^ a large but plain freestone edifice, at the cor. of Washington and Eagle Sts. ; the State Arsenal, a handsome turreted structure of stone in Batavia St. ; t\iQ State Armory mWY^mvPi St., a large plain edifice of brick; the Erie ilounty Penitentiary^ a capacious building of brick and stone; and the General Hospital^ in High St., of which only one wing has been erected. A fine granite court-house and city-hall, fronting on Franklin St., is in process of con- struction, and is estimated to cost nearly $1,000,000. Several of the bank buildings in the city are costly and imposing edifices, especially those of the Erie County, the Buftalo City, and the Western savings-banks. The most notable church edifices are St. Panl's Cathedral (Episcopal), in Pearl St., built of red sandstone in the early English style and containing a fine chime of bells ; St, Joseph's Cathedral (Poman Catholic) in Franklin St., of blue-stone trimmed with white-stone, in the florid Gothic style, and having a chime of 42 bells ; St. Peter'^s (Episcopal) in Main St. near Franklin Square ; the North and Central Preshyterian, in Main St. ; the Presbyterian in Delaware St., which has a lofty spire ; and the Neio Universalist. The leading educational institutions are the Medical College of the University of Buffalo, in Main St. ; Canisius College, a Jesuit institution, occupying a handsome building of stone NEW YORK TO BOSTON. 59 and brick in Waslnngton St. near Tapper ; St. Joseph^s College, on the terrace in the rear of St. Joseph's Cathedral, a flourishing institution, conducted by the Christian Brothers; St. Clary's Academy, on the same square, in Franklin and Church Sts. ; the Buffalo Female Academy, in Delaware St.; the Heathcote School, in Pearl St.' a classical academy established under the patronage of the Episcopal Church ; and the State Xormal School, in Xorth St., a large and imposing building. The Young Men's Association (cor. Main and Eagle Sts.) has a circulating library of 28,000 vol- umes and a well-supplied reading-room. In the same building are the Buffalo His- torical Society, with a large library and cabinets; the Society" of Natural Sciences, which has a very complete and valuable collection of minerals, a good botanical and conchological cabinet, and a complete set of Prof. Ward's fossil casts ; the Academy of Fine Arts, which is founding a fine gallery of painting and scul[)ture ; and the Me- chanics' Institute. Adjoining the library building is .S'^. James's Hall, where lectures, concerts, etc., are given. The Grosvenor Lihrary is a public library for reference, founded by a bequest of Seth Grosvenor, of Xew York. It is liberally endowed, and contains about 12,000 volumes, chiefly important books not easy of access else- where. The Church Charity Foundation (Episcopal), in Rhode Island St. near Niagara, is a fine building, embracing a home for aged and destitute women, and an orphan ward. The Ingleside Home, with an excellent building in Seneca St., is designed for the reclamation of fallen women, and has been very successful since its organization in 1849. The Buffalo Orphan Asylum (Protestant) has a commodious building in Virginia St. ; and the St. Vincent Female Orphan Asylum, cor. Batavia and Ellicott Sts., and the St. Josephs Boys'' Orphan Asylum, at Lundstone Hill, are large and successful Roman Catholic institutions. The State Insane isylnm, in process of construction, will be the largest institution of the kind in the United States if not in the world; it will have a front of about 2,700 ft. The grounds attached to it embrace 203 acres, and are laid out in harmony with the plan of the Buffalo Park, which they adjoin, A superb public Park, or system of parks, has been designed and laid out by Frederick Law Olmsted, the architect of Central Park, in New York City. The land embraces about 530 acres; and is divided into three plots, situated in the western, northern, and eastern parts of the city, with broad boulevards connecting them, forming a continuous drive of nearly 10 m. The Forest Laicn Cemetery, bounded on two sides by the park, is tastefully laid out and contains some fine monuments. From Black Rock, a suburb of Bufi^ilo (reached by Niagara St.), the magnificent International Bridge, completed in 1873 at a cost of $1,500,000, crosses the Niagara River to the Canadian village of Fort Erie. Niagara Falls may be visited from Buffalo (23 m.), via Erie R. R. No visitor should leave Buffalo without having seen the great canal-basins, the piers, the grain-elevators, and some of the iron-works. The spacious passenger de- pots of the Central and Erie R. R. and the immense freight depots of the same roads are also worth a visit. NEW YORK TO BOSTON. ( F/a Fall River Steamers and Old Colony R.R. Distance. 230 m. Time, 10 to 12 hours. Fare, $4. The steamers leave Pier 28, North River, foot of Murray St., daily, Sundays excepted, at 4.30 p. m. There are two all-rail routes from New York to Boston, via New Haven & Providence, and via New Haven, Hartford & Springfield, both of which are briefly described elsewhere. See '"New York to New Haven," ''New Haven to Providence," and "New Haven to Hartford." There are also two other steamboat routes. The " Stonington Line," ria steamers leavintr Pier .33, North River, daily, at 4.30 P.M., and connecting at New London with the Stonington & Providence R. R. ; and the "Norwich Line " of steamers, leaving Pier 40, North River, daily, and connecting at New London with the New York & New England R. R. The first mentioned is the best steamer route, and is here described.) The steamers Bristol and Providence, of the Fall River line, are among the largest and most splendid in American waters, and there are few trips more enjoyable than that part of the present journey which is made on them. Their route, in leav- ing New^ York, is such as to afford an excellent view of the harbor and city, of l^rooklyn and the Long Island shore, of the islands in the East River, of the famous Hell Gate, and of the tranquil waters of Long Island Sound. The greater part of (30 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. the voyage is on these waters, and, when Point Judith is passed and the turbulent Athmtic entered upon, the steamer's destination is close at hand. One stopping is- made between New York and Fall River, namely at Newi^ort^ which is reached at a very early hour in the morning. The remainder of the voyage is over the beauti- ful Narragansett Bay; and at Fall Rker^ which is one of the leading cities of Mas- sachusetts, especially noted for the extent of its manufactures, passengers are trans- ferred to the cars of the Old Colony R. K. From Fall River, the distance to Boston is 49 m., and the route is through a well-cultivated and populous farming country, with no special scenic attractions. Many towns and villages are clustered along the line, the principal of which are Taunton^ another prosperous manufacturing centre^ and Quincy, a beautiful old town, noteworthy as the home of the Adams and Quincy families. Leaving Quincy, the train crosses the Neponset River, runs through Dorchester and S. Boston, and soon enters the depot at the cor. of Knee- land and South Sts. There is another line from Fall River to Boston ma Bridgewa- ter, which is the same as the one here described, except that Taunton is not passed. BOSTON. BOSTON", the capital of Massachusetts, and chief city of New England, is situated at the W. extremity of Massachusetts Bay, in latitude 42° N. and longitude Vl'* W. The city embraces Boston proper. East Boston, South Boston, Roxbury, and Dorchester, Boston proper, or old Boston, occupies a peninsula of some TOO acres, very uneven in surface, and originally presenting three hills. Beacon, Copp's, and Fort, the former of which is about 130 ft. above the sea. The Indian name of this peninsula was Shawmut, meaning "Sweet Waters." It was called by the earlier settlers Trimountain or Tremont. A narrow strip of land called the " Neck " joined the peninsula to the mainland ; this neck was formerly overflowed by the tide, but has been filled in and widened, and is now thickly built upon. East Boston occu- pies the W. portion of Noddle's or Maverick's Island. Here is the deepest water of the harbor, and here the ocean-steamers chiefly lie. The wharf formerly used by the Ounard steamers is 1,000 ft. long. South Boston extends about 2 m. along the S, side of the harbor, an arm of which separates it from Boston proper. Near the centre are Dorchester Heights, which attain an elevation of about 130 ft. above the ocean, and aflord a fine view of the city, bay, and surrounding country. The city is connected with Charlestown by the Charles River bridge, 1,503 ft. long, and the Warren bridge, 1,300 ft. long ; and with Cambridge by the West Boston bridge, which crosses Charles River from Cambridge St., Boston, and is 2,756 ft. long, with a causeway 3,432 ft. long. Craigie's bridge, 2,796 ft. long, extends from Leverett St. to E. Cambridge; from this bridge another, 1,820 ft. long, extends to Prison Point, Charlestown. South Boston is reached by the Federal St. bridge, about 500 ft. long, and the South Boston Bridge, 1,550 ft. long. All these bridges are free. A causeway, built across Back Bay on a substantial dam 1^ m. long, extends from the foot of Beacon St. to Sewell's Point in Brookline. The harbor is a spacious indentation of Massachusetts Bay, einbracing about 75 sq. m., including several arms, such as Dorchester Bay, South Boston Bay, and the embouchures of the Charles, Mystic, and Neponset Rivers. A part of Charles River is commonly known as Back Bay. There are more than 50 islands or islets in the harbor, and it ofiers many picturesque views. The first white inhabitant of Boston was the Rev. John Blackstone, supposed to have been an Episcopal clergyman, and to have arrived in 1623. Here he lived alone until 1630, when John Winthrop (afterward the first Governor of Massachu- setts) came across the river from Charlestown, where he had dwelt with some fellow- immigrants for a short time. About 1635 Mr. Blackstone sold his claim to the now populous peninsula for £30, and removed to Rhode Island. The first church was built in 1632 ; the first wharf in 1673. Four years later a postmaster was appoint- ed, and in 1704 (April 24th) the first newspaper, called the Boston JSfews Letter, was published. The " Boston Massacre " happened March 5, 1770, when 3 persons were killed and 5 wounded by the fire of the soldiery. In 1773 the tea was destroyed in BOSTON. 61 the harbor, and Boston bore a conspicuous part in the opening scenes of the Revolu- tion. The city was incorporated in 1822, with a population of 45,000, which had increased to 136,881 in 1850, to 177,840 in 1860, and 250,526 in 1870. By the View of Bofcton fiom the Haiboi recent annexation of the suburbs of Brighton, Charlestown, W. Roxbury, etc., the population has been increased to 341,919 (in February, 1876). On the 9th of November, 1872, one of the most terrible conflagrations ever known in the United States swept away the principal business portion of Boston. The Are broke out on Saturday evening, and continued until noon on the following day, when it was brought under control, but again broke forth in consequence of an explosion of gas, about midnight, and raged until 7 o'clock Monday niorning. The district burned over extended from Summer and Bedford Sts. on the S. to near State St. on the N., and from Washington St. east to the harbor. About 800 of the finest buildings in the city were destroyed, causing a loss of $80,000,000. Hotels, Restaurants, and CInbs. — The most fashionable and best-kept hotels on the regular or American plan are the Retere House (Bowdoin Square), near the State House ; the Tremont House (Tremont St. cor. of Beacon), also near the State-House ; the Evans House ($4 a day), at 175 Tremont St., fronting on Boston Common ; the American House ($3.50 to $4,50 a day), in Hanover St., centrally located ; the St. James ($4 a day), on Franklin Square, in S. Boston ; the Gommonirealth ($4 a day), Washington St., cor. Worcester, also in S. Boston ; the Clarendon ($3.50 a day), 521 and 523 Tremont St. ; and the United States, opposite the New York and Al- bany depot. Among less expensive houses are the Adams House ($2.50 a day), 371 Washington St. ; the Marlboro House ($2.50 to $3 a day), 391 Washington St. ; the Quincy House ($2.50 a day). Brattle Square ; the Metropolitan ($2.50 a day), Wash- ington St., near Dover; the Greighton House ($2.50), 245 Tremont St. ; the Arling- ton ($2.50), near the Northern depots ; the Sturtetant House, E. Boston ; and the Waverley House, Charlestown. Of the hotels on the European plan, the Parker House, in School St., opposite the City Hall, is the most famous in New England. Other first-class ones are Young''s Hotel, in Court Ave. ; the Craicford House, cor. Court and Brattle Sts.; the Belmont, in Washington St., near Boylston ; and the Sherman, Court Square, near the City Hall. Rooms at these hotels are from $1 to $3 a day; meals a la carte in restaurants attached or elsewhere. ^2 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. The restaurant of the ParTcer House is famous for its good dinners. The Corn- hill Gofee-House (Young's), in Oornhill Road, leading from Washington St., is an excellent establishment. Charles Copeland's, N"o. 4 Tremont Row and 128 Tremont St., and Weber's, Temple Place, are much frequented by ladies. The Hotel Boyl- ston Cafe, Tremont near Boylston St., is one of the best in the city. Flack's, 543 Washington St., is an excellent oyster and chop house ; and there are numerous lunch-rooms throughout the bnsiness part of the city. Good restaurants are con- nected with all the railway-stations. The Somerset Club has a fine granite-front house in Beacon St., elegantly fur- nished. The Union Club owns a handsome house in Park St., containing a valuable library and paintings. The Central Club is housed in an elegant brown-stone mansion at the cor. of Washington St. and Worcester Square. All these clubs are for social purposes, and admission is obtained by a member's introduction. Railroad Depots.— The Lowell Railroad Depot (Causeway St. near Lowell St.) is one of the largest and finest in the country. It is of brick trimmed with Nova Scotia freestone, 700 ft. long and 205 ft. wide. The train-house has a clear span of 120 ft. without any central support. Just beside it, in Causeway St., stands the depot of the Eastern Railroad ; and a few paces from the latter is the depot of the Fitch- hurg Railroad. The Boston & Albany depot is in Beach St., between Albany and Lin- coln Sts. ; the depot of the Maine Railroad is on Haymarket Square, at the end of Union St. ; that of the Providence R. R. is on Pleasant St., at the foot of the Com- mon ; that of the Old Colony R. R. is at the cor. of Kneeland and South Sts. ; and that of the Boston, Hartford & Erie at the foot of Summer St. Modes of Conveyance. — the horse-car system of Boston is very complete, and afl:ords easy access to all parts of the city and to most of the suburbs. Fare usually 6 c. Carriages are in waiting at the depots and at stands in various parts of the city, and Boston hackmen have an excellent reputation. The fares are regulated by law, and are as follows : For 1 passenger per course in city proper, $1 ; from points S. of Dover St. or W. of Berkeley St. to points N". of State, Court, and Cambridge Sts., $1 ; each additional passenger, 50 c. From midnight until 6 a. m. double the above rates. Complaints of overcharges should be made to the Supt. of Hacks, City Hall. Omnibuses run from JSTorthampton St. to Charlestown every four min- utes ; from Summer St. to E. Cambridge every 10 minutes. There are 2 ferries to East Boston — North Ferry, from Battery St. to Border St. ; and South Ferry, from Eastern Ave. to Lewis St. The W^inisimmet Ferry connects the city with Chelsea. The suburban and outlying towns may be reached by steam-cars on the various lines of railway. Streets and Drives. — In the older portions of the city the streets are irregular, and generally narrow, though much has been done toward widening and straightening them since the fire. Those in the "West End," and in the section built on the made land of Back Bay, are wide, regularly laid out, and present a handsome ap- pearance. Washington xS^. is the principal thoroughfare for general retail stores; though Tremont and Winter Sts. also contain a great many and are much frequented. State St. is the financial centre, and contains the headquarters of the leading bank- ers and brokers. Pearl St. is the largest boot and shf>e market in the world ; and in Franklin, Chauncey, Summer, and the neighboring streets are the great whole- sale dry-goods establishments. Commonwealth Ave., running through the newer portion of the city, is one of its finest streets. It is 240 ft. wide, and through the centre runs a long park with rows of trees ; on either side are wide driveways. The " fashionable quarter " of the town lies between Canal St. and the Common, and W. of Tremont and Hanover Sts. Nearly all the streets in this section contain costly and elegant private residences. The beauty of its surroundings is such that there are pleasant drives out of Boston in almost any direction. The most popu- lar drive is to and around Chestnut Hill Reservoir (5 m.). Objects of Antiquarian Interest. — Among " buildings with a history," the most inter- esting in the United States, next to Independence Hall, in Philadelphia, is Fanenil Hall. This famous edifice, the "cradle of liberty," is in Dock Square, Avhich also has an historical reputation because of the meetings of the Revolutionary patriots that BOSTON. 63 were held there. The huikling was erected in 1742, by Peter Faneuil, a Huguenot merchant, and by him presented to the town. Its original dimensions were 100 by 40 ft. Destroyed by fiie in 1761, it was rebuilt in 1763, and enlarged to its present dimensions in 1805. A full-length portrait of the founder, together with the pictures of Wash- ington, by Stuart, of Webster, by Healy, of Samuel Adams, by Copley, and portraits of John Quincy Adams, Edward Everett, Abraham Lincoln, and Governor Andrew, adorn the walls. The basement of the hall, which was formerly a market, is now a series of stores. The Old State- House., in Washington St., at the head of State St., was erected in 1748, and was for half a century the seat of the '' Great and General Court of Massachusetts," being the building of which such frequent mention is made in Revolutionary annals. It has long been given up to business purposes, the interior having been completely remodeled, and the edifice surmounted by a roof which has wholly de- stroyed the quaint eftect of the original architecture. Christ Church (Episcopal), in Salem St., near Copp's Hill, is the oldest church in the city, having been erected in 1722. It has a lofty steeple, and in the tower is a fine chime of bells. The Old South CliniTh, cor. Washington and Milk Sts., is an object of much interest. It is of Faneuil Hall. brick, and built in 1729, on the site where the first edifice of the society had stood since 1669. The church was used as a place of meeting by the heroes of '76, and, during the British occupation of the city, was used as a place for cavalry-drill. It barely escaped the flames in the great fire, and immediately afterward was leased to the Government for two years for a post-ofiice. It will shortly be sold and torn down. Klnrfs Chapel (Unitarian), cor. Tremont and School Sts., was founded in 1686, and the present building, a plain granite structure, erected in 1750-54. Ad- joining the church is the first burying-ground established in Boston. In it are buried Isaac Johnson, " the father of Boston," Governor Winthrop, John Cotton, and other distinguished men. On the cor. of Washington and School Sts. is the Old Corner Book-store., a building dating from 1712. The o\(\ North Burying- Ground., on th^ brow of Copp's Hill, was the second established in the city, and is still sacredly pre- served. Here lie three fathers of the Puritan Church, Drs. Increase, Cotton, and Samuel Mather. (See ''Common," p. 68.) Public aud Prominent Buildings. — The State-House occupies a commanding site on the summit of Beacon Hill, overlooking the "Common," and is the most conspicuous building in Boston. It was commenced in 1793, when Samuel Adams was (govern- or, and finished in 1798, but was greatly enlarged in 1855. It is 173 ft. long and 61 ft. deep, with a stately colonnade in front, and surmounted by a gilded dome. The hall of the House of Representatives, the Senate-Chamber, the rooms of the Gov- ernor, and other oflices of state, are in the State-House. On the entrance-floor (Doric Hall) is Ball's statue of Governor Andrew, busts of Samuel Adams, Lincoln, and Sumner, and a collection of battle-flags. In the rotunda opening oft" Doric Hall are Chantrey's statue of Washington, copies of the tombstones of the Washington family in Brighton Parish, England, and many historical relics. The view from the dome (open when the General Court is not in session) is very fine, including the city, the harbor and ocean beyond, and an immense extent of country in various directions. On the terrace in front of the State-House are statues of Daniel Web- ster and Horace Mann. The new Post-OflSce, in Milk St., cor. Devonshire and 64 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. State-House. "Water, is of granite, highly ornate in style, and will be, when fully completed, the finest building in New England. It fronts 200 ft. on Devonshire St., and cost from $2,000,000 to $3,000,000. The upper stories are occupied by the U. S. Sub-Treas- ury ; the Cash-room here is very richly adorned. The Cnstom-Honse is a large and stately granite structure in State St., near the wharves; it was 12 years in building (1837-49), and cost $1,076,000. The form is that of the Greek cross, and the building is 140 ft. long, 95 ft, through the centre, and 75 ft. at the ends. The portico on either front is supported by six massive Doric columns. The Court- House is a fine building in Court Square, fronting on Court St. It is of Quincy granite, and is 185 ft. long by 50 ft. wide. The City Hall, front- ing on School St. in rear of the Court- Honse, is one of the most imposing edifices in the city. It is of white Concord granite, in the Italian Re- naissance style, and is surmounted by a Louvre dome, 109 ft. high. It was completed in 1865, and cost $505,691. On the lawn, in front, stands the bronze statue of Franklin, by Greenough. The County Jail, in Charles near Cambridge St., is an octagon- shaped granite building, with 4 Avings, conducted on the "Auburn plan." The Beacon Hill Beservoir (City AVater-Works) is a massive granite structure, 200 ft. long and 66 ft. high, fronting on Derne St. The MercJiants' Exchange^ No. 55 State St., was noted for its large size and massive architecture ; but it was greatly damaged by the fire of 1872, and has since lost much in remodeling. The Masonic Temple, cor. Tremont and Boylston Sts., is a lofty structure of light-colored granite, highly ornamental and unique in style. In the interior are Corinthian, Egyptian, and Gothic halls, besides banqueting-rooms, etc. The old Masonic Hall, farther up Tremont St., at the cor. of Temple Place, is now used by the United States courts. Odd-Fellows' Hall, cor. Tremont and Berkeley Sts., is a white granite building of chaste and elegant design. The Sears Bnildiiig, cor. Court and Washington Sts., constructed of gray and white marble in the Italian Gothic style (at a cost of $750,000), is one of the finest in the city. The Hotel Boylston, containing suites of apartments for families, is a large and handsome building at the cor. of Tremont and Boylston Sts., opposite the Masonic Temple. The Mechanics' Bnildins;, cor. Berkeley and Tremont Sts., opposite Odd-Fellows' Hall, is of white granite in the Italian Renaissance style, 4 stories high. It is used by the Boston Board of Trade and the National Board of Trade. Other noteworthy mercan- tile buildings are those of the New York Mutual Life Ins. Co., cor. Milk and Pearl Sts. ; the New England Mutual Life Ins. Co., cor. Milk and Congress Sts. ; the Emigrant Savings-Banh, 590 Washington St. ; the Brewer Building, covering an entire block on Devonshire, Franklin, and Federal Sts. ; and the FranMin Building, cor. Frank- lin and Federal Sts., in which are the publishing-house of J. R. Osgood & Co. and the printing establishment of Rand, Avery & Co. All over the burnt district mag- nificent new buildings and "blocks" have been put up, or are in process of erection. Quincy Market, situated just E. of Faneuil Hall, is a large granite building, 530 by 50 ft. and 2 stories high. Here may be seen a profuse display of all kinds of market produce. Theatres and Places of Amusement. — The Boston Theatre, Washington St., near West, is a famous old theatre, the largest in New England. The Globe Theatre, Washing- ton St., near Boylston, is new, and is the place where operatic and star performances BOSTON. 65 are given. The Museum Theatre^ in the Boston Museum (Tremont near School St.), has an excellent company and select audiences. The museum also contains pict- ures, casts, wax-figures, and curiosities from all parts of the world ; admission, 30c. The HoiDfird Athencevin, Howard St., near Court St., is devoted to varieties and negro minstrelsy. Music Hall, 15 Winter St., is one of the finest in the country, and contains the second largest organ in the world, built in Germany, and costing $80,- 000. Classic music is performed here, and organ-concerts are given semi-weekly. Lectures, concerts, and readings, are given at Tremont Temple, in Tremont St., op- posite the Tremont House; at BeetTtoven Hall, in Washington St., near Boylston; and at Horticultural Hall, No. 100 Tremont St. Horse-races take place at Beacon Park and Mystic Park, in the suburbs of the city. Libraries, Art-Galleries, ete. — The Boston Pnblic Library, in Boylston St., opposite the Common, is, next to the Library of Congress, the largest in America. It contains over 260,000 volumes, besides 100,000 pamphlets and the valuable Tosti collection of engravings. The Library and reading-room are free to all, but only residents of the city can take books away. The Boston Athensenni is an imposing edifice of Pater- son freestone, in the Palladian style, in Beacon St. near Bowdoin. It was incor- porated in 1807, and is one of the best endowed institutions of the kind in the world. The first story of the building contains the sculpture-gallery (which in- cludes statues by Greenough, Crawford, Houdon, and numerous casts) and the read- ing-room. The library of 96,000 volumes is in the second story, and the picture- gallery in the third. Str'angers must be introduced by a member in order to get access to the library. Admission to the picture-gallery (which is very rich in copies from the old masters, American paintings, antiquities, etc.), 25c. The American Academy oj Arts and Sciences, incorporated in 1780, has its rooms and its library (15,000 volumes) in the Athenseum building. The Congregational Lihrary (7,000 volumes), No. 40 Winter St., is rich in ecclesiastical literature and has a good read- ing-room. There are also many other libraries in Boston which we have not space to mention. Free reading-rooms may be found at the Young Men's Christian Union (300 Washington St.), and at the Young Men''s Christian Association (cor. Tremont and Ehot Sts.). The Mnsenm of Fine Arts, on Art Square (St. James Ave. and Dartmouth St.), is an elegant new building of red brick, elaborately adorned with terra-cotta bass-reliefs, copings, and mouldings. The halls on the lower floor will contain statuary, casts, and valuable collections of Egyptian antiquities and sculptures. In the upper halls will be spacious picture-galleries, and a library. Tlie collections of the Boston Athenaeum are to be transferred to this Museum, which, besides, possesses some of the most valuable works of art in the country. Art exhibitions are given in the Studio Building, Tremont St. next to Horticultural Hall, and at the rooms of the Boston Art Club, in Boylston St. Good pictures, engravings, etc., may be seen (free) at the sales-galleries of Williams & Everett, No. 234 W^ashington St. Horticultural Hall, No. 100 Tremont St., is an elegant structure of white granite, whose front is richly ornamented with columns, statues, and carved cor- nices. Annual floral shows are held here ; also fairs, concerts, and lectures. The magnificent new building of the Society of Natural History is on the cor. of Boyl- ston and Berkeley Sts. Its library numbers 12,000 volumes, and it has valuable cabinets (open to the public on Wednesday and Saturday afternoons). The Massa- chusetts Historical Society, 30 Tremont St., possesses a library of 19,000 volumes, and many valuable MSS., coins, charts, maps, portraits, and historical relics. The ]sFew England Historical and Genealogical Society^ 18 Somerset St., has a valuable library and a small collection of curiosities. Chnrches. — There are upward of 150 church edifices in Boston, of which the old historical ones (Christ, Old South, and King's Chapel) have already been described. St. Paul's (Episcopal), facing the Common between Winter and West Sts., is of gray granite in the Ionic style, with a portico supported by 6 columns of Potomac sand- stone. Near by, at the cor. of Park and Tremont Sts., is the old Parh Street Church (Congregational), founded in 1809. It occupies a fine position, and has a beautiful spire. Adjoining the church is the Old Granary Burying- Ground^ in 66 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. 1 which are buried Peter Faneuil, Samuel Adams, John Hancock, and other distin- guished men. Emanuel Church (Episcopal) is in Newbury St. near Berkeley. The Ai-lington Street Church (Unitarian), in Arlington St., fronting the Public Garden, is a handsome freestone structure, with an excellent chime of bells in its tower. The First Chnrch (Unitarian), cor. Berkeley and Marlborough Sts., is one of the most beautiful in the city. It has a powerful organ, stained-glass windows, and the inte- rior is richly decorated. The society dates from 1630. Close by, on the cor. of Berkeley and Newbury Sts., is the Central Congreg.itional, one of the most elegant churches in New England. It is of Roxbury stone with sandstone trimmings, cruci- form in shape, with rich stained windows, and a lofty stone spire, 240 ft. high. The new Old Sontli, cor. Boylston and Dartmouth Sts., consists of a group of buildings — church, chapel, and parsonage. It is of Roxbury stone ; the interior is extremely ornate, and the tower is 235 "ft. high. The Brattle- Square Church (Unitarian), cor. Commonwealth Ave. and Clarendon St., is of Roxbury stone, in the form of a Greek cross, and very massive in style. The campanile is 176 ft. high, surrounded near the top with a frieze containing colossal statues in high-relief, after designs by Bartholdy. Trinity Church (Episcopal — Phillips Brooks) is in process of erection at the cor. of Clarendon and Boylston Sts. It will cost $750,000, and will be one of the largest and finest churches in Boston. The Methodist Church, in Tremont St. near Concord, has two spires, and is a fine structure. The Church of the hnmacu- late Conception (Roman Catholic), in Harrison Ave. near Concord St., has a fine interior and is famed for its music. The new Church of St. James (Roman Catho- lic), in Harrison Ave., is in the purest form of a classical basilica, and the interior is richly i)ainted and adorned. The Cathedral of the Holy Cross (Roman Catholic), cor. Washington and Maiden Sts., was begun in 1867 and is still unfinished. It is in the medieval Gothic style, and when completed will be the largest and finest church edifice in New England. The main spire will be 320 ft. high, and will contain a chime of bells. Edncational and Charitable Institutioius. — Though Haryard Uaiiversity does not, strictly speaking, belong to Boston, it will be most convenient to describe it here. This Matthe\\'- Udll (-howiiij: aKo Ala^^achiibcttb and llai\aul Hallfc) venerable seat of learning is at Cambridge, 3|- m. from Boston (horse-cars from Bowdoin Square). It was founded in 1638 by the Rev. John Harvard, and em- braces, besides its collegiate department, law, medical, dental, scientific, and theolo- BOSTON. 67 gical schools. In 1875-"r6 there were 119 instructors, and 1,278 students. The uni- versity lands in various parts of Cambridge comprise 60 acres. The college-yard contains about 15 acres, tastefully laid out and adorned by stately elms. Here forming a large quadrangular inclosure, are clustered 15 buildmgs, of brick or stone' from 2 to 5 stories high. The most notable of these are Matthews Hall, a large and ornate structure used as a dormitory; Massachusetts Hall, an ancient building (dating from 1720), used as a reading-room; Holden Chapel; Harvard University, Gray, and Boylston Halls; Appleton Chapel; Thayer Hall, and Dane Hall, ior the law s ch o o 1 . Gore Hall, be- yond the qua- drangle, con- tains the uni- versity library (130,000 vol- umes). Near the college yard are the G y m n a s i u m and the Zoo- lo gical Mu- seutu. About f m. N. W. of the college group is the Botanical Gar- den, contain- ing a valuable herbarium, and near it is the Observa- tory. Memorial Hall, erected by the alumni and friends of the university in commemo- ration of the students and graduates who lost their lives during the civil war, is a Harvard Library. -=( massive struct- ure of brick and Nova Sco- tia stone, 310 ft. long by 115 wide, with a tower 200 ft. high. It is one of the finest college buildings in the world, and cost $575,000. The Medical College, a t - tached to the University, is in Boston at the foot of Bridge St. Its anatomical museum is Memorial Hall. worth visiting. Boston University was founded in 1869 by Isaac Rice, who bequeathed it $2,000- 000. The plan of the institution contemplates schools for advanced students in ^8 HAND-BOOK OF AMEEICAN CITIES. every department of knowledge. The schools of theoloj2:y and law and the col- lege of music are already in operation. Boston College is a Jesuit institution, in Harrison Ave., near Concord St. The Institute of Technology^ " devoted to the practical arts and sciences," has an elegant brick and stone structure in Boylston St., between Berkeley and Clarendon. The New England Female Medical College^ founded in 1848, had 5 instructors and 26 pupils in 1871. Of the charitable institutions, the Perlcins Institution for the Blind is famous all over the w^orld. It was founded in 1831 by Dr. Samuel G. Howe, under w^hose charge it remained until his death, and occupies spacious buildings on Mt. Washing- ton, S. Boston. iSTear by on the hill is the Carney Ho%pitcd^ managed by the Sisters of Charity. The Massachusetts General Hospital is a vast granite structure on Charles River, between Allen and Bridge Sts. The City Hospital^ in Harrison Ave., opposite Worcester Square, is a conspicuous granite edifice surmounted by a lofty dome, and standing in grounds 7 acres in extent. The Marine Hospital (for invalid seamen) occupies a commanding site in Chelsea, and is a spacious and state- ly building. The U. S. Naval Hospital is near by. The House of Industry and the Almshouse are on Deer Island in the harbor ; and the House of Correction and Lunatic Asylum in S. Boston. Parks and Public Squares. — The principal of these is Boston Common, a park of 48 acres in the heart of the city, surrounded by a handsome iron fence, and laid out in sloping lawns and rambling walks, shaded by great numbers of magnificent trees. The Common is considered to date from 1034, and by the city charter it is made public property forever, and the city cannot sell it or change its character. A pond and fountain, on the site of the ancient "Frog Pond," occupy a central point in the grounds. The Old Elm, believed to have existed before the settlement of the city, was for many years one of the principal Boston sights. It was much damaged by storms in 1860 and 1869, and was finally blown down in the gale of Jan. 26, 1876. It stood near the pond. On Flagstaff Hill, near the site of the Elm, is the Soldiers'' Monument, 90 ft. high. The plinth is in the form of a Greek cross, richly sculptured ; and at the four corners are statues of heroic size, representing Peace, History, the Army, and the Xavy. The shaft is a Roman-Doric column, with 4 alle- gorical figures, representing the North, South, East, and West, sculptured in alto- rilievo around its base. The whole is surmounted by a colossal figure of America, standing on a hemisphere, guarded by 4 figures of the American eagle, with out- spread wings. Near Park St. is the beautiful Brewer Fountain, of bronze, cast in Paris. The Public Garden, which was once a part of the Common, is now separated- from it by Charles St, It comprises 21 acres, beautifully laid out, and contains a conservatory. Ball's admirable equestrian statue of Washington, Story's bronze stat- ue of Edward Everett, one representing "Venus rising from the Sea," and the beautiful monument in honor of the discovery of ether as an anaesthetic. In the centre is a serpentine pond covering 4 acres and crossed 'by a handsome bridge. There are numerous smaller squares in Boston, but none call for special mention. Cemeteries. — Mount inbnrn, about 1 m, from Harvard University and 4 m. from Boston (reached by horse-cars from Harvard Square), constitutes one of the sights of Boston, and should be seen by every visitor. It is the prof)erty of the Massa- chusetts Horticultural Society, was consecrated September 24, 1881, and contains 125 acres. It is the oldest and by many is considered the most beautiful of Amer- ican rural cemeteries, and is embellished by landscape and horticultural art and many elegant and costly monuments. The gateway is of Quincy granite in the Egyptian style, 60 ft. long and 25 ft. high. The Chapel, an ornamented Gothic edifice of granite, not far from the gate, contains statues of Winthrop, Otis, John Adams, and Judge Story. Central, Maple, Chapel, Spruce, and other leading ave- nues, afford a circuit of the entire grounds, with a view of the principal monu- ments. The Tower, 60 ft, high, in the rear of the grounds, is 187 ft, above Charles River, and commands a fine view. It is reached by Central, Walnut, and Mountain Avenues, Numerous lakes, ponds, and fountains in various parts of the cemetery add to its beauty. Forest Hills, in West Roxbury (reached by horse-cars and BOSTON. 69 by Providence R. R.), ij>, next to Mount Auburn, tlie most visited of Boston ceme- teries. It is larger and plainer than Mount Auburn, but is tastefully laid out, and contains some fine monuments. The entrance is an elegant, turreted Gothic struct- ure. A fine view may be had from Snow-flake Clitf. Woodlaim, 4 m. N, of Bos- ton and 2 m. from Chelsea, has many attractive features. The gatehouse is a lofty, Gothic structure, 56 ft. high. Rock Tower, near the entrance, commands a fine view of the harbor, islands, and ocean. Mount Hope Cemetery^ in W. Roxbury, is in the care of the city. The old burying-grounds in the city itself have already been described. Suburbs. — The environs of Boston are remarkably attractive. On almost all sides lie picturesque and venerable old towns, and the country between, even when not strictly beautiful, is never flat and tame. Charlestown, Brighton, Jamaica Plain, and W. Roxbui-y, were annexed in 1875, and now form part of the city. Roxbury and Dorchester have been previously annexed. In all of them are the flne villa residences of Boston mercliants, and other features of interest which make them worth a visit. At Charlestown^ on the N. (reached by horse-cars from Scollay Square), is the famous Bunker Hill Mouuuieut, occupying the site of the old redoubt at Breed's Hill, and commemorative of the eventful battle fought on the spot, June 17, 1775. It is a plain but massive obelisk of Quincy granite, 30 ft. square at the base, and 221 ft. high. From the observatory at the top, readied by a spiral flight of 295 steps, is obtained a magnificent view, including the entire vicinity of Boston. The monument was dedicated July 17, 1843, in the presence of President Tyler and his cabinet, on which occasion Daniel Webster delivered an ora- tion which is considered his finest oratorical eftbrt. In the house near the monument is a fine statue of General Warren, who was killed on the Hill; and a stone marks the spot where he fell. The U. S. JSFavy- Yard is also located in Charles- town. It comprises about 100 acres, and contains, among other objects of interest, the longest rope- walk in the country, and an immense dry-dock. In Chelsea (connected with Boston by ferry, and with Charlestown by a bridge over the Mystic River) are Woodlawn Cemetery, Marine Hospi- tal, and Naval Hospital, which have already been described. Chelsea Beach, 5 m. from Bos- ton (reached by horse-cars or by Eastern R. R.), is a smooth, hard, sandy beach, well adapted for visited by citizens on Sundays and holidays. Brighton, a station on the Albany R. R., 5 m. W. of the city proper, is famous for its cattle-market. Point Shir- ley, 5 m. from Boston, aftbrds a pleasant drive. The most direct route is via the E. Boston ferry. Excellent fish and game dinners and suppers may be obtained here, at Taft's Hotel. Brookline is a beautiful town on the New York & New England R. R. (reached also by Causeway from Boston). • In it is the Brookline Reservoir, with a capacity of 120,000,000 gallons. About 1 m. dis- tant, on the boundaries of Brookline, Brighton, and Newton, is the great Chest- nut Hill Reservoir, with a capacity of 800,000,000 gallons. From Boston to and around this point is a favorite drive. The chief attraction of Cambridiie (Harvard University) has already been described, but the city itself is well worth a visit. Lea-ington and Concord are reached by the Lexington Branch R. R. from the Lowell depot. The harbor of Boston, as elsewhere remarked, is one of the best and most spa- sious on the coast, and to the summer visitor afi"ords one of the most attractive features of the city. Frequent excursions to difierent points take place in the sura- •ner season, and by taking a steamer to Hingham (twice daily from Liverpool 6 Buuker Hill Monument, driving or walking. It is nmch 70 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. Wharf) the principal islands and fortifications may be seen. The most important of these fortifications are, Fort Independence, on Castle Island; Fort WmtJirop, on Governor's Islnnd ; and Fort Warren, on George's Island. Deer, Long, Ramstord, Spectacle, Gallop, and Thomi)Son's Islands, are also passed. NEW YORK TO NEW HAVEN. ( Via New York & New Haven E. E. Distance, 73 m. Time, 2^^ hrs. Fare, $2.) Leaving the Grand Central Depot, the train runs on the track of the New York & Harlem R R. as far as Williams's Bridge (14 m.), and then takes the New York & New Haven road, which runs through several pretty suburban towns. Greenwich rsi m ) is the first station in Connecticut, and is pleasantly situated on hill-slopes commanding a fine view of Long Island Sound. Stamford (37 m.) and NoricaU (-45 m ) are handsome towns, containing many villas of New York merchants, and are frequented as summer resorts. Fairfield (54 m.) is a highly-popular summer resort situated about i m. from the beach. Bridgeport (59 ra.) is a flourishing town of 20 boo inhabitants, situated on an arm of Long Island Sound, and noted tor the extent and variety of its manufactures. Several pretty villages are no\v passed, and as the train approaches New Haven, across extensive salt meadows, \s est and Last Rocks two abrupt promontories, 400 and 300 ft. in height, are conspicuous objects. NEW HAVEN. Hotels: The New Haven House, cor. College and Chapel Sts., is the largest and best ($4-4.50 a day). The Tontine (cor. Church and Court Sts.) and the Tremont are good ($3 a day). nVTEW HAVEN, the largest city in Connecticut, is situated at the head of New IN Haven Bay 4 m. from Long Island Sound, upon a broad plain surrounded by hills of moderate height. It was settled in 1638 by a colony from London, was a distinct colony until 1665, was incorporated as a city in 1784, and from 1701 to 1875 was one of the capitals of the State. The city is the centre of 5 railroads, and has considerable foreign commerce, chiefly with the West Indies. Its coastmg-trad New Haven. is also large; and its manufactures are very extensive, including machinery, hard ware, locks, clocks, firearms, carriages, organs, pianos, jewelry, India-rubber goodh etc. The population in 1870 was 50,840. Chapel St., the principal thoroughfare extends in a W. N. W'. direction throughout the length of the city, btate m< NEW HA VEX. 71 Church are also important business streets, and Hillbonse Ave. is lined with handsome private residences. The number of magnificent elms with whicli its principal avenues are planted has caused New Haven to be called the " City of Elms." They were mostly set out about the close of the 18th century, by James Hillhouse, or through his influence and example. The public square or " Green," in the centre of the city, is a fine lawn magnificently shaded, and has in it the State-House (where the Legislature assembled on alternate years till 1874), the Centre Churchy the North Churchy and Trinity Church. In the rear of Centre Church is the grave of the regicide John Dixwell, marked by a marble monument. On the E. side of the Green is the City Hall, a very handsome building, in which the courts are held, and the city, town, and county have their local offices. The Custom- House, in Church St. near Chapel, is of Portland stone, and has apartments for the Post- Office and U. S. courts. The other principal public buildings are the Court-House., in Church St., the State Hospital., the Medical College^ the Orphan Asylum., the County Prison, and the Almshouse. The last three are in the W. part of the city. Wooster Square., in the E. part, is an inclosnre of 5 acres, laid out with remarkable elegance and good taste. The Old Burying- Ground., on Grove St. near High, contains many interesting monuments, among wliich are those which mark the graves of Theophilus Eaton (first Governor of New Haven Colony), Roger Sherman (signer of the Declaration), Timothy Dwiglit, Benjamin Silliman, and Noah Webster. The Evergreen Cemetery., on the bank of West River, is large and tastefully adorned, and the Neic Haven Bury ing- Ground., N. AY. of the city, is worth visiting. Across Temple St. from the Green are the grounds of Yale College, one of the old- est and most important educational institutions in America. It wjis founded in 1700, removed to New Haven from Saybrook Point in 1717, and in 1875-'76 had 86 instructors and 1,051 students. Besides its Academic Department, the College has a Law School, a Medical School, a Scientific School, a Theological School, and a School of the Fine Arts. The most notew^orthy buildings are the Library, contain- ing 90,000 volumes; the Art Building, containing the Trumbull collection of historical paintings, the well - known "Jarves col- lection " of early Italian pictures, some i uteres tin a- casts from Greek an- tiques, and a few modern w orks of art ; ^ the Alumni "^ ; Hall, in which 'are hung por- The Library. traits ot dis- tinguislied oflicers and graduates of the College; the Old Commons' Hall, containing the great geological cabinets; and the new buildings, Durfee Hall and Farnura 'Hall, at the N. end. These buildings are all in College Square. Just N. of it is the •handsome structure of the Theological School; and still farther N., in Grove St., »the hall of the SheflSeld Scientific School, with its laboratories, library, and scientific icollections. The Gymnasium, said to be the most complete in the country, is in Library St. 72 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN ClflES. The East and West Rocks, already mentioned as noticeable in approaching the city, are worth a visit. East Rock (reached by horse-cars from the Green) is 300 ft. high, and affords a wide and beautiful view. A small hotel is on the summit. West Rock (reached by horse- cars from Chapel St.) is 400 ft. high, and also affords an at- tractive view. On the top there is a group of bowlders called the "Judges' Cave '' because Goffe and Whalley, two of the judges of King Charles I., of England, were secreted here for a while in 1661. Near the base of the rock on the N. is Winter- green Fall, a pretty cascade. Near by is Maltby Park, 800 acres in extent, contain- ing the city water-works and some picturesque drives and rambles. Savin Rock, a bathing-place, with summer hotels, on Long Island Sound, 4 m. S. W. of the city, is a favorite resort (reached by horse-cars from the Green). Sachems' Wood (the Hillhouse residence), at the head of Hillhouse Ave., is a pleasant spot. The most popular drive is down the E. side of the harbor to Forts Hale and Wooster, the latter an old ruin dating from 1814, the former recently dismantled. From the hill on which Fort Wooster stands there is a fine view, shown in our engraving. NEW HAVEN TO HARTFORD. ( Via New Haven, Hartford & Springfield II. E. Distance, 36 m. Time, 1 to 1-JJhr. Fare, $1.10.) This road as far as Springfield, 26 m. beyond Hartford, is one of the main high- ways to Boston, and it continues on to the Canadian frontier as the best route from New York to the White Mountains and to Quebec. The valley of the Connecticut is one of the most beautiful in the country, but the tourist sees but little of the lower river from the cars, the track not running along the river-bank until after passing above Hartford. Three or four pretty towns are passed on the route between JSTew Haven and Hartford, anfl there is nothino- else to challensre attention. HARTFORD. Hotels: The Allyn House, near the depot, is the largest and best ($4 a day). I The United States, on State-House Square ($3 a day), and the City Hotel, in Main St. ($3 a day), are good. - HARTFORD, the capital of Connecticut, and one of the most beautiful cities in New England, is situated at the head of sloop navigation on the Connecticut River, 50 m. from Long Island Sound. It comprises 10 sq. m., and is about 3J m. long, with an average breadth of 3 m. It is intersected by Park River, which is spanned by 11 bridges. A bridge across the Connecticut, 1,000 ft, long, connects the city proper with East Hartford. Hartford was settled by the Dutch, in 1683, and the site of the first houses, at the junction of the Connecticut and Park Rivers, is still known as "Dutch Point." In 1635 the first English colony settled here, and named the place in honor of Hartford, England, the birthplace of one of their ministers. From ITOl to 1875 Hartford shared with New Haven the honor of being capital of the State, but in the latter year, by virtue of a constitutional amendment, it became the sole capital. The business of Hartford is very extensive, not only on account of its numerous manufactories, but also because it is one of the great centi-es of fire and life insurance. The aggregate assets of the banking and insurance com- panies at the beginning of 1874 were over $135,000,000. The manufactories include iron and brass ware, steam engines and boilers, sewing-machines, firearms, mechan- ics' tools, silver-plated ware, stoneware, woolens, envelopes, cigars, fertilizers, and a vast number of other productions. The population in 1870 was 37,180. The city is regularly laid out, part of the streets running nearly parallel to the river, and others crossing them E. and W. Main St., which extends from N. to S. through the principal portion of the city, is the great thoroughfare. On it are the principal public buildings, churches, and retail stores, and for more than a mile it presents an almost unbroken range of brick and stone edifices. State, Commerce. and Asylum Sts., are also the seat of a large and active business. In the out- skirts are many tasteful and elegant residences, and the city, as a whole, is remarka- HARTFORD. 13 hW well built. The State-House, an old brick stracture, erected in 1794, stands on State-House Square, and contains the public offices and the State Library. In the secretary's office is the famous charter. In the Senate-chamber is a full-length por- trait of Washington, by Stuart, portraits of former colonial and State Governors, and an elegant chair made from the charter-oak. From the cupola on the top of the building there is a fine view. The City Hall is a handsome building in the Gre- cian style, fronting on Market St., near State-House Square. The Post -Office is at 252 Main St. The Opera-House (395 Main St.) is an elegant structure with .*• tasteful interior. The State Arsenal, in the IST. section of the city, is a large and stately edifice ; and the Union Depot is one of the finest in N'ew England. The City Parh (46 acres) is beautifully situated in a bend of Park River, S. of the de])ot, and contains a fine bronze statue of Bishop Brownell, and a statue of General Putnam. Here the New State-House, of marble, in the secular Gothic style, is in process of con- struction. It is to be 300 ft. long by 200 ft. wide, and 250 ft. high to the top of the ! '^Mt wn 'fir New State-House. dome. Besides spacious chambers for the two Houses of the Legislature, it will contain rooms for the Supreme Court and the State Library. Its estimated cost is I $1,500,000. The Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb is beautifully situated on a hill near the depot, in the midst of extensive grounds. It was founded in 1817, and was the first institution of the kind in America. The Retreat for the Insane, founded in 1824, stands upon elevated ground in the S. W. part of the city. It has extensive and highly-ornamented grounds, from which fine views of the city and of the Con- necticut Valley may be obtained. The Hartford Hospital, in Hudson St., near the Retreat, is a handsome building of Portland stone. Among the many fine churches in the city, the most noticeable are: the Churcli of the Good Shepherd (Episcopal), erected by Mrs. Colt as a memorial of her husband and children. It is in the pure Gothic style, with a spire 150 ft. high, and has a rich interior. Christ Church (Episcopal), cor. Main and Church Sts., is a fine specimen of Gothic architecture, as is the Parh Church (Congregational). The Pearl St 74 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. Church (Congregational) has a graceful stone spire. The South Baptist^ the First Methodist, and St. PatricFs Cathedral (Roman Catholic), are handsome buildings. The Roman Catholics are erecting a new catliedral in Farrington Ave. The leading educational institution is Trinity College (Episcopal), founded in 1823. In 1874 it had 17 instructors and 94 students, and a library of 7,000 volumes. The buildings, comprising 3 stone halls, called respectively Seabury, Jarvis, and Brownell, are situ- ated in Trinity tSt., near the City Park. These grounds, however, have been sold to the city, the trustees reserving the right to use them until April, 1877, with the exception of Brownell H;ill, a portion of which has been demolished to make room for the new State-House. A new site for the College, about 1 m. S. of the present one, has been purchased. The new High-School^ near the Park, and a little S. W. of the dei)ot, and tlie new Broicn School^ in Market St., are among the finest school- houses in tlie country. The Theological Institute of Connecticut (Congregational), cor. Prospect St. and Wadsworth Alley, has a library of 7,000 volumes. The Wads- worth Athenseam is a fine granite edifice, in the castellated style, in Main St. The cen- tral portion is used as a fine-art gallery, in which are some good pictures and statu- ary ; in the S. portion are the museum, library (16,000 volumes), and other rooms of the State Historical Society, through which is the entrance to the Watkinson Library, a free public library, containing 27,000 volumes. The N. portion is occu- pied by the Young Men's Institute, which has a library of 23,000 volumes. This institution is well worth a visit. Colt's Firearms Manufactory irndthQ Willow TTV?'Zs forma village of themselves in the S. E. portion of the city. The grounds extend from the river to Main St., upon which stands the elegant Colt mansion (" Armsmear "), surrounded by im- mense greenhouses, graperies, etc. The Ancient Bury ing-Q rounds containing the ashes of the first settlers, is in the rear of Centre Church, in Main St. The largest cemetery is in the X. part of the city ; but the Cedar Grove Cemetery (reached by Main St. horse-cars) should be visited to see the Colt monument, the Beach monu- ment, and tlie fine ])rospect over the surrounding country. The vicinity of Hartford abounds in picturesque drives and walks. The favorite drives are to TumMe-down Brool\ 8 m. W., on the Albany road ; to Talcott Moun- tain, 9 m. W. ; to Prospect Hill ; and to Wethersfield (6 m. IST.), the most ancient town on the river. East Hartford (reached by the long bridge) contains some quaint old houses. NEW HAVEN TO PROVIDENCE. {Via Shore Line and Stonington & Providence E. R. Distance, 112 m. Time, 8i-4 hours. These roads form a part of one of the principal through-routes between New York and Boston.) Leaving New Haven, the road still runs along the shore of Long Island Sound through a country populous and well cultivated but destitute of marked scenic at- tractions. Guilford (16 m.) is a pretty town, shaded with fine trees, and much frequented as a summer resort. Netc London (50 ra.) is one of the oldest towns in Connecticut, is largely engaged in the whale-fishery, and is the site of a United States JSTavy-Yard. It is picturesquely situated, and contains 10,000 inhabitants. Mystic (58 m.) is the site of the celebrated Pequot massacre (May 26, 1637), when the colonists under John Mason annihilated tlis tribe, burning their forts, and shoot- ing down men, women, and children. Stonington (62 m.) is also an old town, is pleasantly situated near the ocean, and is a favorite watering-place. This is the last station in Connecticut, and the only station of importance between it and Provi- dence is Westerly (68 m. from New Haven), noted for its extensive manufactures. Providence is 188 m. from New York, by the Shore Line, and is reached also by the " Stonington Line " of steamers, by the "Norwich" and "Fall Kiver " lines, and by the direct through-line. PROVIDENCE. Hotels; The City Hotel., in Broad St., and the Aldrich House^ near the depot, are the best. The Central, 10 Canal St., is on the European plan. The Ffarragansett Hotel., now in process of construction, will be of immense size. PROVIDENCE. 75 PROVIDEXOE, one of the most beautiful cities in New England, and surpassed only by Boston in wealth and population, is the chief city and one of the cai)itals of Rhode Island. It is picturesquely situated on the northern arm of Nar- ragausett Bay, known as Providence River. The river extends to the centre of tlie city, where it expands into a beautiful cove nearly a mile in circumference, along which is a wall surmounted by an iron railing. A park planted with elms, and laid out in graveled walls, surrounds the cove. The land on which the city stands is very irregular. On the E. side a hill rises to the height of 204 ft. above tide-water. On the W. it is level, with little elevation for a quarter of a mile, when the land rises to the height of 75 ft. The sides and summits of the hills are covered with dwelling-houses, interspersed with gardens and ornamented with trees. Providence is an ancient town, dating as far back as 1636, when its founder, Roger Williams, banished from ]\Iassachusetts on account of his religious opinions, sought here that liberty which was denied to him elsewhere. The rock (''What Cheer Rock") (n the bank of the Seekonk River on w^hich he landed, and where he was received by the Indians, is about 1 m. from the centre of tlie city near the E. end of Power Ft. The town suftered severely in the famous war with King Philip, 1675, when a con- siderable portion of it was burned. It was incorporated in 1832, and in 1875 had a population of 100,675. Nine railroads converge at Providence, which has also a large coasting and some foreign trade. Its manufactures are very extensive, includ- ing " prints " (for which it is the leading American market), cotton and woolen goods, iron, gold and silver ware, and numerous other articles. The celebrated Gorham -plate, the Peabody rifles, and the Corhss engines, are manufactured here; and the workshops of the American Screw Company (employing 2,500 hands) are the best-appointed of their kind in the country. Seven out of the 9 railroads use the fname Bailroad Depot^ a spacious and elegant brick structure situated near the heart of the city on the S. side of the cove, and fronting on Exchange Place. Horse- cars run through diiferent parts of the city, and to the adjoining towns. The main business thoroughfare is Westminster 8t.^ and extending from it to Weybosset St. is the Arcade, the finest of the kind in the United States. It is 225 ft. long by 80 wide, a portion in the centre being 50 ft. wider ; it is 3 stories high, has 78 shops, and is devoted chiefly to the retail trade, the principal articles sold being dry-goods, boots and shoes, hats, and jewelry. The building is of granite, with two imposing Doric porticoes, one on each street. In the vicinity is the massive granite building of the Gustom-TIouse and Post-Office. The State-House is a small brick building on the E. side of Providence River, at the corner of Main and Court Sts. Near the railroad depot a granite building for the City Hall has recently been com- menced, which is estimated to cost $675,000, and wiiich will be one of the finest municipal buildings in New England. A County Court-IIouse is to be erected on the cor. of College and Benefit Sts. The new Opera-House and the Butler Exchange (in Westminster St.) are fine structures ; and several of the school-houses are ex- ceptionally handsome buildings. Close by tlie railroad depot in the middle of an open square is the Soldiers' and Sailors' Monnment, erected by the State in memory of its citizens who fell in the civil war. It w^as designed by Randolph Rogers, cost $60,000, and consists of a base of blue Westerly granite, with five bronze statues. On the monument are inscribed the names of the soldiers it commemorates, 1,7-1:1 in number. There are 76 churches in the city, of which the most notable are: the First Baptist^ a quaint old edifice, erected in 1774-'75, standing in open grounds on the side of a hill (in N. Main St. near President). It was founded in 1639, and is the oldest Baptist society in America. Grace Church (Episcopal), in Westminster St., is a handsome stone structure, with an exceedingly graceful spire. St. StepiheTi's (Episcopal) is a substantial brown-stone edifice, with stained-glass windows, and richly-decorated interior. The Union Congregational.^ and the Roman Catholic churches oi St. Mary and St. Joseph, are fine buildings. On the heights in the E. section of the city stand the 6 handsome buildings of Brown Uniyersity, an old and important institution of learning. It Avas founded in 1764, and was first located at Warren, Rhode Island, but was removed to Providence in 1770. Its library con- 76 EAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. tains over 40,000 volumes, and is remarkably rich in rare and costly works. The Museum of Natural History contains a valuable collection of specimens ; and the art-collection embraces some good portraits. The grounds comprise 16 acres, and are beautifully adorned with elms. The Rhode Island Historical Society, founded in 1822, occupies a fine brick and granite building opposite the University grounds. It has a library of 6,000 volumes and 35,000 pamphlets, besides a large collection of MSS. and other memorials relating to the history of the State. The Athenaenin, cor. College and Benefit Sts., is a substantial granite building, containing a reading-room and a well-selected library of 34,000 volumes; also some valuable paintings, includ- ing portraits by Allston and Sir Joshua Reynolds, and Malbone's masterpiece. The Butler Hospital for the Insane occupies large and imposing buildings on the W. bank of Seekonk River, surrounded by extensive grounds. The Dexter Asylum for the Poor is a fine edifice of brick, situated on elevated land E. of the river in Hope St. The grounds, which comprise about 40 acres, are inclosed by a stone wall 8 ft. high. The Rhode Island Hospital has stately buildings surrounded by ])leasant grounds in the S. part of the city, fronting on the harbor. The Reform School occupies the large mansion in the S. E. section of the city, formerly known as the Tockwotton House ; and near by is the Home for Aged Women. The State Prison is a gloomy structure on the N^. side of the cove, near the depot. Besides the promenades about the cove, there are several small public squares. Roger Williams Parh, containing about 100 acres, is near the W. shore of Narra- gansett Bay, in the S. part of the city ; it was devised to the city in 1871 l)y Betsey Williams, a descendant of Roger Williams. Swan Point Cemetery, tastefully laid out and elegantly ornamented, is on the E. bank of the Seekonk River, near the Butler Hospital for the Insane. At Cranston, 4 m. W. of Providence, is the famous Narragansett Trotting Pari-. A ftivorite drive is to Hunt's Mill (3i m.), where there is a beautiful brook with a picturesque little cascade. Yue de V Eau is the name of a spacious summer-hotel, picturesquely perched upon a high terrace 4 m. below the city, overlooking the Bay and the country for many miles around. Pawtuxet., 5 m. from the city on the W. shore of the Bay, has a fine beach and excellent bathing. Below is Gaspee Point., which was the scene of a noted exploit during the Revolution. Some citizens of Providence, after adroitly beguiling a British sloop-of-war (the Gaspee) upon the treacherous bar. stole down by night in boats and after capturing the crew burned the vessel to the water's edge. Rocky Point, equidistant between Providence and Newport, is an attractive summer retreat, among shady groves and rocky glens, on the W. shore. Here is a good hotel with bathing-houses attached, and a tower, 170 ft. high, affording a charming view of the Bay and the adjacent country. But the place is chiefly famous for its clam-bakes, which are unequaled elsewhere. Marked Roch is another popular excursion-place, a few miles higher up the Bay. In summer-time, steamers leave Providence almost every hour for the various resorts on the Bay (50c. for the round trip), and 4 times daily for Newport. PHILADELPHIA TO PITTSBURG. {Via Pennsylvania Central R. E, Distance, 355 m. Time, 12-14 hrs. Fare, $10.) This fine line constitutes one of the chief highways of travel and traflic between the Atlantic coast and the Western States. It extends from the city of Philadel- phia through the entire length of Pennsylvania to the Ohio River at Pittsburg, where it connects with routes for all parts of the West, Southwest, and ISTorthwest. At various points along the route* is some of the most beautiful scenery to be found in America. For the first hundred miles after leaving Philadelphia, the road runs through tlie rich agricultural counties of Chester, Lancaster, and Dauphin, in which the size and solidity of the houses and barns, and the perfection of the cultivation, more nearly resemble the best farming districts of England than any other portion of the United States. On either hand may be seen an almost constant succession PITTSBURG. 77 of quaint old liouses, of stone or brick, surrounded by orchards and shade-trees, and standinij in the midst of a country sino^ularly park-like in character ; while at brief intervals towns and villages cluster along the line. The first place of importance is Lancaster (70 m.), which was once the principal inland town of Pennsylvania, and the seat of the State government from 1799 to 1812. It is now a prosperous manu- facturing city of 20,000 inhabitants, containing many fine buildings, pubhc and pri- vate. Harrisburg (107 m.) is the present capital of Pennsylvania, and is beauti- fully situated on the E. bank of the Susquehanna River. It dates from 1785, and in 1870 had a population of 24,796. The State-House is a fine old building, situ- ated upon a commanding eminence N". of the city, and is plainly visible from the cars. A little S. of it stands the State Arsenal. About 5 m. above Harrisburg the railroad crosses the Susquehanna on a s])lendid bridge 3,670 ft. long; the view from the centre of the bridge is one of the finest on the line. Duncannon (122 m.) is at the entrance to the beautiful Juniata Valley, which is followed for about 100 m. to the base of the Alleghany ^fountains. The landscape of the Juniata is in the high- est degree picturesque. The mountain background, as we look continually across the river from the cars, is often strikingly bold and majestic. The passage through the Great Tuscarora Mountain, 1 m. W. of Newport (135 m.), is especially fine. Mount Union Station (193 m.) is at the entrance of the gap at Jack's Mountain. 3 m. beyond is the famous Sidling Hill, and still farther W. the Broad Top Moun- tain. At Tyrone City (224 m.) the line enters the Tuckahoe Valley, noted for its iron-ore. At Altoona (239 m.), which is a handsome city of 15,000 inhabitants, the ascent of the Alleghanies begins; and in the course of the next 11 miles some of the finest scenery and the greatest feats of engineering on the entire line are to be seen. Within this distance the road mounts to the tunnel at the summit by so steep a grade that while in the ascent double power is required to move the train, the entire 11 m. of descent are run without steam, the speed of the train being regulated- by the " brakes." At one point there is a curve as short as the letter U, and that, too, where the grade is so steep that in looking across from side to side it seems that, were the tracks laid contiguous to each other, they would form a letter X. The road hugs the sides of the mountains, and from the windows next to the valley the traveler can look down on liouses and trees dwarfed to toys, while men and ani- mals appear ike ants from the great elevation. Going west, the left-hand, and coming east, the right-hand side of the cars is most favorable for enjoying the scenery. The summit of the mountain is pierced by a tunnel 3,670 ft. long, through which the train passes before commencing to descend the W. slope. Johnstoion (277 m.), at the junction of Stony Creek with Conemaugh River, commands some attractive scenery. The Cambria Iron-Works, seen to the r. of the road, are among the most extensive in America. At Blairsville (301 m.) the road forks and runs by two distinct routes to Allegheny City and Pittsburg. From this point there is nothing calling for especial mention, though the intervening country on either route is most beautiful and picturesque. PITTSBURG. Hotels: Monongahela House ($4 a day), cor. Water and Smithfield Sts. ; the Union Depot ($3.50 a day), in the railroad depot ; and the St, Charles^ cor. 3d Ave. and Wood St. ISTear the de[)0t are the St, James and Rush Hotels^ on the European plan. PITTSBURG, the second city of Pennsylvania in population and importance, is situated at the confluence of the Alleghany and Monongahela Rivers, which here form the Ohio. The city proper occupies the delta between the two rivers, and in 1870 had a population of 86,076 ; but in 1872 and 1874 enough of the subur- ban towns were annexed to raise the population (according to the census of 1870) to 121,799. The population in 1875 was estimated by the local authorities at 140,- 000. Pittsburg was laid out in 1765 on the site of the old French Fort du Quesne, famous in colonial annals, and on its capture by the British the name was changed to Fort Pitt, in honor of William Pitt. The city charter was granted in 1816. In 78 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. 1845 a conflagration destroyed the entire business quarter, consuming $5,000,000 worth of property. The city is substantially and compactly built, and contains many fine residences, particularly in the E. section. A large number of the princi- pal avenues are graded and paved. Horse-cars run throujh the principal streets, and to the suburbs. Seven bridges span the Alleghany Kiver and 5 the Mononga- Pjttsbuv hela. From its situation, Pittsburg enjoys excellent commercial facilities, and has become the centre of an extensive commerce with the Western States ; while its vicinity to the inexhaustible iron and coal mines of Pennsylvania has raised it to great and merited distinction as a manufacturing centre. The extent of its iron manufactures has given it the appellation of the " Iron City," while the heavy pall of smoke that constantly overhangs it, i)roduced by burning bituminous coal in all the dwelling-houses and manutacturing establishments, has caused it to be styled the "Smoky City." About one-fourtb of the pig-iron and blooms of the United States is used by the rolling-mills of Pittsburg, of which there are 16 ; and about 150 minor iron-establishments convert the product of these mills into machinery and implements for agriculture and domestic use. The annual value of the iron manufactures is about $30,000,000. There are 8 steel-works, of which the average annual product is valued at $7,000,000 ; and 5 copper-manufactories with an annual product worth $3,000,000. The glass-manufacturing establishments are nearly 50 in number, producing articles of the annual value of about $11,000,000. Pittsburg is also largely identified with the production of petroleum, and contains numerous "refineries. The stranger will have missed the city's most characteristic sights if he fails to visit some of its great manufacturing establishments, particularly those of iron and glass. The American Iron- Worlcs alone employ 2,500 hands and cover 17 acres ; and the Fort Pitt Worls are on a gigantic scale. Smithfield St. is the principal business thoroughfare, and trade is very active in Penn and Liberty Sts., and 5th Ave., which contains many handsome retail stores. Among the public buildings are the Mnnieipal Hall, cor. Smithfield and Virgin Sts., costing $750,000, with a granite front and a massive central tower; the Covrt- House, a solid stone edifice, cor. 5th Ave. and Grant St., with a columned portico and surmounted by a dome; the Custom-Home and Post- Office, a commodious ALLEGHENY CITY. 79 structure of stone, cor. Smithfield St. and 5th Ave. ; and the TiBited States Arseisal, a group of s|)aciousl)iiilding:s standing in the midst of ornamental grounds in tlie N. E. section of the city. Of the 150 churches, the most imposing is the Koman Catholic Cathedral of St. Paul, a large edifice of brick, with 2 spires and a dome over the choir. Trinity Church (Episcopal) is a fine building in the English-Gothic style, in 6th St. near Smithfield St. St. Thomas (Episcopal), in Grant St., is also a handsome structure. The First Presbyterian., near Trinity Churcli, is a massive stone edifice with two towers. Other notable church edifices are the First Bajitist and the Third Presbyterian. The new and elegant building of the Mercantile Library is in Penn St. ; it cost $250,000, and contains 15,000 volumes and a well-supplied reading- room. In the same building are the rooms and collections of the Pittslurg Art Association. The Young 3Ien's Christian Association has a good reading-room at the cor. of Penn and 6th Sts. There are in the city two theatres, an Opera-House, an Academy of Music, and several public halls. The Western University, founded in 1819, has a handsome building in the S. E. part of the city, near the Monongahela, and in 1874 had 17 instructors and 252 stu- dents. It has a library of 2,500 volumes, extensive philosophical and chemical apparatus, and a cabinet containing over 10,000 specimens in geology, mineralogy, conchology, and zoology. The Pittsburg Female College (Methodist) is a flourish- ing institution. Several of the public-school buildings are large and substantial. Among the principal charitable institutions are the Western Pennsylvania Hos-pital., an immense building in Ridge Ave., with a department for the insane at Dixmont, on the Pittsburg, Fort Wayne & Chicago R. R. ; the City General Eosintal ; the Ilomceojyathic Hospital and Dispensary ; the Mercy Hospital, in Srephenson St.; the Episcopal Church Home ; and the Roman Catholic Orphan Asylum. The Con- vent of the Sisters of Mercy (Webster Ave. cor. of Chatham) is the oldest house of the order in America. Birmingham is a flourishing suburb, lying across the Monongahela from Pitts- burg (reached by bridge or ferry). It has important manufactories of glass and iron, which are worth a visit. Manchester., now a part of Allegheny City, is 2 m. below Pittsburg, on the Ohio. Here is located the House of Refuge, incorporated in 1850; and the Passionist Monastery of St. Paul and the Franciscan Convent are near by. The United States Marine Hospital is a short distance below. East Liberty^ 5 m. from Pittsburg, on the Central R. R., is a thriving suburb, containing some fine residences, and afl^ording a delightful drive to and from the city. ALLEGHENY CITY. Hotel : The Central Allegheny House ($4 a day). ALLEGHENY CITY is situated on the W. bank of the Alleghany River, oppo- site Pittsburg, with which it is connected by 5 bridges. Its manufacturing interests are large, and the elegant residences of many Pittsburg merchants may be seen here, occuj)ying commanding situations. In 1870 the city had a population of 53,180. The City Hall is on the square at the crossing of Ohio and Federal Sts., and the Allegheny Library is close by. The finest church in the city is St. Peter's (Episcopal), which has a bass-relief of the Ascension over the entrance. The Western Penitentiary is an immense stone building, in the ancient Norman style, situated on the " common.'' It was completed in 1827, at a cost of $183,000. Ylsitors are ad- mitted from 2 to 4|^ p. m. every day except Saturdays and Sundays. The Western- Theological Seminary (Presbyterian) was established here in 1827. It is situated on a lofty, insulated ridge, 100 ft. above the river (reached by Ridge St.), and affords a magnificent prospect. The Theological Seminary of the United Presbyterian Church, established in 1826, and the Allegheny Theological Institute, organized in 1840 by the Synod of the Reformed Presbyterian Church, are also located here. The Alle- gheny Observatory, situated on an elevated site N. of the city, is a department of the Western University at Pittsburg. The Public Park hes around the centre of the city ; it contains 100 acres, and is adorned with several tiny lakelets and a monu- 80 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. ment to Humboldt. On a lofty crest near the Alleghany in the E. part of the city stands the Soldiers' Monnment, erected to the memory of the 4,000 men of Alleghany Co. who lost their lives in the civil war. It consists of a graceful column, sur- rounded at the base with statues of an infantry-man, a cavalry-man, an artillerist, and a sailor, and surmounted by a bronze female iigure of colossal size. A tine view is obtained from this point. NEW YORK TO CUlCACrO.— ROUTE J, (Fia New York Central & Hudson River R. R., and Great Western and Michigan Central Railways. Distance, 961 m. Time, about 36 hrs. Fare, $22.) From New York City to Albany this route is substantially the same as that described in the trip by steamer up the Hudson River. (See p. 51.) From the cars, however, only the W. bank of the river is visible, and the most attractive portions of the scenery are missed. The portion of the route between Albany and Rochester lias also been described. (See p. 55.) Leaving Rochester, the road runs through a rich agricultural region, passing two or three small but pretty towns, to Lockport (■i29 m. from New York), a thriving little city of 15,000 inhabitants, famous for its limestone-quarries and its manufacture of flour. Here, the wonderful system of locks by which the Erie Canal descends from the level of Lake Erie to the Genesee level, is visible from the windows of the cars. At Suspension Bridge (448 m.) the train crosses tlie Niagara River, in full view of the Falls and of the rapids rushing toward the whirlpool below. The bridge itself is worth attention as one of the achievements of modern engineering. It is 800 ft. long from tower to tower, is 258 ft. above the water, and was finished in 1855 at a cost of $500,000. A carriage and foot way is suspended 28 ft. below the railway-tracks. From Suspension Bridge to Detroit, the route runs through Canada, and is most uninteresting. In the neighborhood of St. Catharine's (459 m.) and Hamilton (480 m.) there is some attractive scenery, but with these exceptions everything is dull, flat, and monotonous, and the traveler will be glad when, emerging from a deep cut, he suddenly comes upon the bank of the Detroit River, at Windsor (678 m.), opposite Detroit, Michigan. Here the train is transferred to the other side of the river on a steam ferry-boat, and the route is resumed on the line of the Michigan Central R. R. Detroit (679 m.) is fully de- scribed below. From Detroit to Chicago the road runs through a fine agricultural country, the general aspect of which is pleasing, especially in spring and summer, but which is not of a striking or picturesque character. In many places it passes through dense virgin woods, and in others across and along the winding rivers which abundantly water this section of Michigan. The only towns on the line call- ing for special notice are Ann Arbor (715 ra.), a very pleasant place, famous as the seat of the University of Michigan, one of tlie noblest institutions of learning in America ; Jaclcson (753 m.), a city of about 11,000 inhabitants, containing the State Prison, and numerous manufactories ; and Kalamazoo^ which lias the reputation of being the most beautiful town in the State, which contains several important educa- tional institutions, and which is the site of the " State Asylum for the Insane." DETROIT. Hotels s The three leading hotels are the Russell House^ fronting on the Campus Martius, the Biddle House^ and the Michigan Exchange, DETROIT, the chief city of Michigan, is situated on the banks of the Detroit River, a noi)le stream or rather strait 20 rn. long, connecting Lakes Erie and St. Clair, and affording the best harbor on the entire chain of the Great Lakes. The river varies in width from i to 1 m., has a current of from 2 to 3 m. an hour, and is noted for the clearness and purity of its deep, fish-teeming waters. The city extends along the bank for about 7 m., and is built up for about ^^ m. from the water. For at least 6 m., the river-front is lined with mills, dry-docks, ship-yards, founderies, grain-elevators, railway-depots, and warehouses. For a short distance from the river-bank the ground rises gradually, and then becomes perfectly level, furnishing DETROIT. 81 an admirable site for a large city. Detroit is laid out upon two plans: the one that of a circle with avenues radiating from the Grand Circus as a centre ; the other that of streets crossing each other at right angles. The result is a slight degree of intri- cacy in certain localities, which inconvenience is more than compensated by a num- Detroit. ber of little triangular parks which diversify and ornament the place. The avenues are from 100 to 200 ft. wide ; the streets vary in width from 50 to 100 ft., and are generally shaded by an abundance of trees. The site of Detroit was visited by the French as early as 1610; but no permanent settlement was made until 1701, when Fort Pontchartrain was built. In 1763 it passed into the hands of the English, and immediately afterward was besieged for 11 months by Pontiac in his attempt to expel the whites from that region. In 1783 Detroit was ceded to the United States, but the Americans did not lake possession of it till 1796. During the war of 1812 it fell into the hands of the British, but was recaptured in 1813. It was incorporated as a city in 1824, when its population was less than 2,000, and in 1870 had 79,577 inhabitants. The manufactures of the city are numerous and important, including extensive iron-works and machine-shops, 8 railroad-car factories, flour-mills, brew- eries, and immense tobacco and cigar factories. The shipping interests are also large, while pork and fish packing employ numerous hands. The principal streets of the city are Jefferson Ave., parallel with the river; Wood- ward Aye., which crosses the former at right angles, and divides the city into two nearly equal parts; and Fort St., Michigan Ave., Grand Hirer Are., and Gratiot St., at various angles with Woodward Ave. West Fort St. is a broad and beautiful street, lined with elegant residences; and Lafayette Are. is a fashionable street. Grisicold St. is the Wall St. of the city. The Grand Circus, the principal park, is semicircular in form, and is divided by Woodward Ave. into two quadrants, each containing a fountain. About i m. from the Grand Circus is the Campus Martins, an open space 600 ft. long and 250 ft. wide, which is crossed by Woodward and Michigan Avenues, and from which radiate Monroe Ave. and Fort St. Facing the Campus Martins on the W. is the.new City Hall, a handsome structure 200 ft. long, 90 ft. wide, and 180 ft. high to the top of the tower, completed in 1871, at a cost of $600,000. It is built of sandstone in the Italian style, and consists of 3 stories above the basement, with a Mansard roof. In the square in front of the City Hall is a fine 32 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. Soldiers' Monument, erected in memory of the Michigan soldiers who fell in the civil war. Facing the Campus Martins on the N. is the Opera-Honse, one of the largest and most elegant buildings of the kind in the country. The Custom- House, which also contains the Post- Office, is a large stone building in Griswold St. The Board of Trade Building is another fine edifice, but it is unfortunately located in Woodbridge St., near the river, where its fine proportions cannot be seen to advantage. The Freight-Depot of the Michigan Central E. R. is one of the most noteworthy structures in the city. It stands on the wiiarf, and consists of a single room, 1,250 ft. long and 102 ft. wide, covered by a self-sustaining roof of corrugated iron. In the immediate vicinity are the great Wheat- Elevator of the company, from the cupola of which a superb view of the city, river, and Lakes St. Clair and Erie, may be had ; and the Round House, in which 16 locomotives stand under a dome surpassed in size only by that of the Capitol at Washington. Besides the Opera-House, there are the German Stadt- Theater, and several large public halls. The churches of Detroit are noted for their number and beauty. *S'^. Anne's (Ro- man Catholic), Larned St. cor. of Bates, is the oldest church in the city, and is noted for its fine choir. The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul (Roman Catholic), Jefferson Ave. cor. of St. Antoine St., is the largest church-edifice in the State, and has an imposing interior. St. Paul's (Episcopal), cor. Congress and Shelby Sts., is the parent church of the diocese, and is famous for its beautiful roof, which is self-sustaining ; there is not a pillar in the building. Other handsome Kpiscopal churches are Chrisfs, in Jefferson Ave. above Hastings St., St. John's, in Woodward Ave., and Grace, in Fort St. The Fort St. Presbyterian (Fort St. cor. 3d) has the handsomest front of any church in the city. The Central Church (Methodist), in Woodward Ave. above the Grand Circus, has a richly-decorated interior. The First Preslyterian, in State St., the Jefferson Ave. Presbyterian, above Rivard St., and the First Congregational, Fort St. cor. Wayne, are all fine edifices. There are several libraries in the city, of which the ])rincipal are the Public Library, containing 20,000 volumes, and that of the Young Men's Society, containing 12,000. The Convent of the Sacred Heart, in Jefferson Ave. near St. Antoine St., is a large and very beautiful building. The House of Correction, in the X. portion of the city, is considered one of the best reformatory prisons in the country. Directly opposite is a home for discharged female prison- ers, who are received here and furnished with work until places can be found for them out of reach of the evil infiuences previously surrounding them. The U. S. Marine Hospital, on the bank of the river, just above the city, commands a fine view of the Canada shore. Elmwood Cemetery is a beautiful burying-ground with- in the city limits (reached by horse-cars). Woodmere Cemetery, on high ground, 4 m. W. of the city, is of recent origin. Fort Wayne is a bastioned redoubt, about 3 m. below the Michigan Central De- pot, standing upon the bank of the river and completely commanding the channel. The Fort St. and Elmwood horse-cars run within half a mile of it, and it is also a favorite point to which rides and drives are taken. Belle He, an island in the river opposite the upper limit of the city, is a favorite resort for picnics. Grosse Point, 7 m. above the city, is a point of land projecting into Lake vSt. Clair. It is noted for its cherry-orchards, and is the terminus of a beautiful drive over a good road. Grosse He, 18 m. below the city, is an island 3 m. long by 1 m. wide, and is a favor- ite resort of the wealthier residents of Detroit, many of whom have beautiful sum- mer residences upon it. There is an hotel on the island, and the fishing, boating, and bathing, are excellent. Put-in-Bay Islands, a group of islands in Lake Erie, near the mouth of Detroit River, is a favorite summer resort. From Detroit there is a daily steamer in summer to Kelly's Island, the largest of the group. NEW YORK TO CHIC Ps.QrO.— It OUT E II. {Via Erie and Lake Shore & Michigan Southern Eailwayp, Distance, 958 m. Time, about 35 hrs. Fare, $22.) The Erie Railway, over which this route passes for the first 460 m., is one of the greatest triumphs of engineering skill in this or any other country, and affords some NEW YORK TO CHICAGO. 83 of the grandest and most varied scenery to be found east of the Rocky Mountains. Portions of tlie line were considered impassable to any other than a winged creature, yet mountains were scaled or pierced, and I'iver-canons pas^ed, by blasting a path from the face of stupendous precipices ; gorges of fearful depth were spanned by bridges swung into the air ; and broad, deep valleys crossed by massive viaducts. For the first 31 m. the road traverses the State of New Jersey, passing through the great manufacturing city of Paterson (17 in.), famed for the beautiful falls of the Passaic. Just this side of Suffern''s Station.^ it crosses the line and enters the State of New York, commencing the ascent of the famous Ramapo Valley. At Sloatsburg (H6 m.) the road passes near Greenwood Lake, a noted summer resort, around which are a number of pretty little lakes. Turner's (48 m.) is the most picturesque station on this portion of the line. The view from the hill N. of the station is superb, the Hudson River, with Fishkill and Newburg, being in sight. On approaching Otu- mlle (76 m.), the eye is attracted by the bold flanks of the Shawangunk Mountain, the passage of which great barrier (once deemed insurmountable) is a miracle of engineering skill. A mile beyond Otisville, after traversing an ascending grade of 40 ft. to the mile, the road runs through a rock-cutting 50 ft. deep and 2,500 ft. long. This passed, the summit of the ascent is reached, and thence we go down the mountain's side many sloping miles to the valley beneath, through the midst of grand and picturesque scenery. Onward the way increases in interest, until it opens in a glimpse, aw^ay over the valley, of the mountain-spur known as the Cuddehack ; and at its base the glittering water is seen, now for the first time, of the Delaware & Hudson Canal. Eight miles beyond Otisville we are imprisoned in a deep cut for nearly a mile, and, on emerging from it, there lies spread before us (on the r.) the rich and lovely valley and waters of the Netersink. Beyond sweeps a chain of blue hills, and at their feet, terraced high, gleam the roofs and spires of the town of Fort Jervis (88 m.) ; while to the S. the eye rests u])on the waters of the Delaware, along the banks of which the line runs for the next 90 m. At Sholiola (107 m.) we find ourselves among some of the greatest engineering successes of the Erie route, and some of its chief pictorial charms. Here the road lies on the mountain-side, several hundred feet above the river, along a mighty gully, supported by grand natural abut- ments of jagged rock. Upon 3 m. of this Shohola section, upward of $300,000 were expended. At Deposit (177 m.) the valley of the Delaware is left, and we begin the ascent of the high mountain-ridge which separates it from the lovely valley of the Susquehanna. As the train descends into the latter valley, there opens suddenly on the r. a picture of rare and bewitching beauty. This first glimpse of the Susquehanna is esteemed one of the finest points of the varied scenery of the Erie route. A short distance below, we cross the great Starucca Viaduct, 1,200 ft. long and 110 ft. high, constructed at a cost of $820,000. From the vicinity of Susquehanna, the next sta- tion (198 m.), the viaduct itself makes a most etfective feature of the valley views. For a few miles beyond Susquehanna the route still lies amid mountain-ridges, but these are soon left behind, and w^e enter upon a beautiful hilly and rolling country, thickly dotted with villages and towns. Binghamton (215 m.) is a flourishing city of 13,000 inhabitants, an important railroad centre, and the site of the State Inebri- ate Asylum. Twenty-one miles farther we come to Owego, a large and prosperous manufacturing town, and then to Elmira (274 m.), the most important city on the road, with a population of 15,863. At Hornellsville (382 m.) we reach the last and least interesting division of the road, and soon after begin to descend to the Lake Erie level, passing through a wild and desolate region, with few marks of human habitation. At DunUrlc (460 m.) we reach the junction with the Lake Shore line, and leave the State of New York, crossing the upper corner of Pennsylvania to Erie (508 m.), an old, pleasant, and important city on Lake Erie. The country now be- comes more picturesque and more thickly settled, and numerous small towns cluster along the line. Conneaut (535 m.) is the first station in Ohio ; but the first place of any importance is Cleveland (608 m.), which w^ill now be described. (For con- tinuation of the route beyond Cleveland, see p. 86.) 84 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. CLEVELAND. Hotels: The best are the Weddell House^ cor. Superior and Bank Sts., the Ken- narcl House^ and the American House. There are numerous second and third dass houses, some of them well kept. CLEVELAIsTD, the second city in size and iraportjince in Ohio, is situated on the S. shore of Lake Erie, at the mouth of the Cuyahoga River. Originally the town was confined to the E. bank of the river, but subsequently Brooklyn, or Ohio City, sprung up on the opposite side, and both parts are now united under one cor- poration. The greater portion of the city stands on a gravelly plain, elevated about 100 ft. above the lake. The river passes through it in a winding course, affording an excellent harbor, which has been improved by dredging out a commodious ship- channel (branching from the river near its mouth), and by the erection of 2 piers 200 ft. apart, stretching several hundred feet into the lake. On the E. pier is a lighthouse, and another stands on the clitf above. The city is laid out with much taste, chiefly in squares, the streets being remarkably wide and well paved. The abundance of shade-trees, chiefly maple, has given it the title of the "Forest City." The business blocks are mostly of brick and stone, from 3 to 5 stories high, and a large proportion of the dwellings are constructed of the same materials. Several bridges Cleveland, from the Reservoir, cross the Cuyahoga, connecting theditferent portions of the city, and there are seven lines of horse-cars. The growth of Cleveland has been very rapid. It was laid out in 1796, but in 1830 contained only 1,000 inhabitants. It received its first impetus from the completion in 1834 of the Ohio Canal, which connects Lake Erie at this point with the Ohio River at Portsmouth. A further stimulus was given after 1850 by the development of the railroad system, and since 1860 its prosperity has been greatly increased by the rapid extension of manufacturing industry. In 1870 the population was 92,829, but it is now estimated at more than 160,000. The com- merce of the city is very large, especially with Canada and the mining regions of Lake Superior. The most important manufactures are of iron and coal-oil ; in the production of refined petroleum Cleveland is second only to Pittsburg. Other im- portant products are sulphuric acid, wooden-ware, agricultural implements, marble CLEVELAND. 85 and stone, railroad-cars, and wliite-lead. Pork-packing is also carried on to some extent. The main business tlioronghfare ot the city is Siqierhr St., on wliich are the larger retail stores, banks, and hotels. Other important business streets are River, Merwin, Water, and Ontario Sts. Euclid Ave. is lined with elegant residences, each surrounded hj ample grounds, and is considered the handsomest street in the coun- try. Prospect St., parallel to the avenue, ranks next in beauty. The square known as Monnmeutal Park, which occupies 10 acres near the centre of the city, was formerly open to foot-passengers only, but since 18(36 it lias been divided into four smaller squares by the extension of Superior St. from E. to W., and of Ontario St. from N. to S. The square is shaded with fine trees, and is admirably kept. In the centre stands a statue of Commodore Perry, the hero of the battle of Lake Erie, erected in 1860 at a cost of $8,000. The pedestal is of Rhode Island granite, 12 ft. high; the statue Itself is of Italian marble and is 8 ft. 2 in. high. In front of the pedestal is a marble medallion representing the passage of Perry in a small boat from the Law- rence to the Niagara during the heat of the battle. In the X. W. corner of the park there is a handsome fountain ; and in the S. AV. a pool and cascade. W. of the river is another park, called the Circle, which has a fountain in the centre, and is iinely adorned with shade-trees. The Ignited States building fronting on the park, containing the Custom-House, Post-OtHce, and Federal courts, is a tine stone structure, as are also the City-Hall, and the County Court-House which also front on the park. Case Hall, a beautiful edifice near the park, contains, besides the rooms of the Cleveland Library Association, and numerous offices and stores, a fine hall capable of seating 1,500 persons and used for lectures, concerts, etc. The principal place for dramatic entertainments is the Academy of Music, a plain brick building in Bank St., besides which there are a Bohemian theatre, a German theatre, a Theatre Comique, and several public halls for lectures, etc. The Inion Railway Depot, built in 1866, is a massive stone structure, one of the largest of its kind in the world. On the keystone over the main entrance is a bass-relief portrait of Mr. Amasa Stone, under whose supervision the depot was built. There are similar portraits of Grant and Lincoln, and various symbolical designs upon keystones at either end of the building. The Water- Wo rl's stRiid near the lake, W. of the river. By means of a tunnel extending 6,600 ft. under the lake, pure water is obtained, which is forced by two powerful engines into a large reservoir, occupying the highest point W, of the river, whence it is distributed through the city. The Reservoir is a popular resort, and affords a broad and beautiful view over the city, lake, and surrounding country. Of the 88 churches in the city, the Methodist Cliureh, cor. Erie St. and Euclid Ave., is the finest. It is of stone, with a lofty spire, and has an elegant chapel in the rear. The Roman Catholic Cathedral^U a large and handsome building in the Gothic style ; and Trinity Church (Episcopal) is an imposing edifice, also in the Gothic style. The First, Second, and Third Presbyterian churches are all fine structures. Among the educational institutions, the Cleteland. Medical College, founded in 1843, is the most important. It occupies an imposing struct- ure on the corner of Erie and St. Clair Sts. The Cleveland Female Seminary^ in Woodland Ave., is a fine building; and the two High-School buildings are handsome edifices of brick and stone. The Cleveland Library Association has a library and reading-room in Case Hall. The library contains about 15,000 volumes, selected witli special reference to the wants of students and persons of culture. The PuNic Library, opened in 1869, contains about 10,000 volumes. It is free, and is supported by an annual tax upon the citizens of one-tenth of a mill, which produced in 1870 a revenue of $4,000. On the shore of the lake, near the Medical College, stands the extensive build- ing of the U. S. Marine Hospital. The Charity Hospital, in Perry St., was estab- lished partly by the city and partly by private subscrii)tions, and is attended by the Sisters of Charity. The Homoeopathic Hospital, on University Heights, has a large building. Connected with it is a Homoeopathic College, which is a flourishing in- stitution, admitting female students. The House of Correction, on the E. outskirts 7' 36 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. of the city, is a large and handsome structure, for the confinement and utilizing of city offenders. The City Infirmary^ to which the sick and homeless poor are taken, has attached to it a good farm, which is worked by the inmates of the insti- tution. Cleveland has three beautiful cemeteries. City Cemetery^ in Erie St., is laid out with rectangular walks shaded with trees, and contains many fine monuments. Woodlawn Cemetery^ more recently opened, is on tlie E. boundary of the city. It is prettily laid out with paths winding amid the native trees and abundant shrubbery, and is rich in monuments and statuary. Lalce View Cemetery, containing 300 acres, is in Euclid Ave., about 5 m. from the city. It is 250 ft. above the level of the lake, commands extensive views, and, though only opened in 1870, has already been greatlv beautified and adorned. Resuming the route westward to Chicago, at the distance of 31 m. from Cleve- land we come to Olerlin, noted as the seat of Oberlin College, from which no per- son is excluded on account either of sex or color. This college, founded in 1834, combines manual labor with study, inculcates entire social equality between whites and blacks, and has had a prosperous career. Toledo (715 m. from New York) is an important point, and within a few years has developed from an inconsiderable vil- lage into a large and rapidly-growing city. In 1850 the population was 3,820; in 1870 it was 31,693, and is now estimated at 50,000. It is situated on the Maumee River, 4 m. from a broad and beautiful bay, and 12 m. from Lake Erie, of which it is regarded as one of the ports. Its commerce is very large, consisting chiefly of the handling of grain ; and its manufactures are numerous and important, includ- ing car-factories, iron -works, locomotive-shops, furniture-factories, flour-mills, and breweries. The best hotels are the Ohio House, Island House, and American ; and the handsomest buildings in the city are the churches and schoolhouses. At To- ledo the road branches, one division running through Southern Michigan and known as the Michigan Southern Division, the other running through Indiana, and known as the Air-Line. The former is the one usually followed by tlie through-trains, and the same rich agricultural country is traversed by both. Adrian (747 m.) is the largest city in Snuthern Michigan, and is a liandsomely-built town. Its popula- tion in 1870 was 8,453. At Elkhart, Ind. (857 m.), the two divisions of the road unite again ; and the route from there to Cliicago is through a flat prairie-country which has been well described as having "a face but no features." The principal stations on this portion of the line are Misliaicalca (837 m.). South Bend (868 m.), and La Porte (899 m.), all in Indiana. Chicago is described on p. 89. NEW YORK TO CHICAGO.— KO^JTA' III. {Via "Paa-Handle Eoute," which includes the PennsvlvaDia R. R., and the Pitlsburo;, Cincinnati & St. Louis R. R. Distance, 949 m. Time, 35 hi's. Fare, $22.) The portion of this route lying between N"ew York and Philadelphia is de- scribed on p. 20. That portion lying between Philadelpiiia and Pittsburg is also described on p. 76. At Pittsburg (445 m. from New York) the train takes the track of the Pittsburg, Cincinnati & St. Louis R. R., which crosses four States and traverses the rich agricultural regions of the Great AVest. Steubenville (488 m.) is picturesquely situated upon an elevated ])lain on the W. bank of the Ohio River. It is the centre of an extensive trade, and is the seat of an academy for boys and of a noted female seminary. Keicarlc (605 m.) is situated at the junction of the three forks of Licking River, and is a handsome town, the streets being wide and abundantly shaded, and tlie stores, churches, and dwellings, well built. The next important station is Columlus (638 m.), which will now be described. (For the continuation of the route beyond Columbus, see p. 89.) .S^j'i. _^,^^^ _ ___ COLUMBUS. 87 COLUMBUS. Hotels} Keil House^ cor. High and Capitol Sts. ($3 a clay); American House^ cor. High and State Sts. ($2.50 a day); United States Hotel^ cor. High and Town Sts. ($2 a day). COLUMBUS, the capital of Ohio, and one of tlie largest cities in the State, is situated on the E. bank of the Scioto River, 100 m. N. E. of Cincinnati, It was laid out in 18] 2, became the seat of the State government in 1816, and was incorporated as a city in 1834, when its population was less than 4,000. The popu- lation in 1870 was 31,274, and is now estimated at nearly 50,000. The commercial interests of the city are large, and its manufactures numerous and important ; but its growth and wealth are chiefly due to tlie concentration there of the State insti- tutions, and the liberal expenditure of public money. The streets are very wide and are regularly laid out in squares. Broadway is 120 ft. wide for a distance of more than 2 miles. It has a double avenue (4 rows) of trees, alternate maple and elm, and is one of the most beautiful streets in the country. The finest resi- dences in the city are on this and Toicn St. The princii^al business thoroughfare is High St., which is 100 ft. wide, and paved with the Nicholson pavement. Horse- cars reach all parts of the city (fare 5c.), and there are 6 bridges across the Scioto. In the centre of the city, occupying the square of 10 acres between High and Third and Broad and State Sts., is Capitol Square, surrounded by majestic elms and beauti- fully laid out. It is proposed to make it a complete arhoretum of Ohio trees, of which many varieties are alreadyrepresented. The most interesting feature of Columbus to the stranger is its public buildings and institutions, in which it is not excelled by any city in the United States except Washington, and much surpasses any other town in the Ohio Valley. The State has concentrated here nearly all the public buildings devoted to its business, benev- olence, or justice. The Capitol, which stands in Capitol Square, is one of the largest and finest in the United States. It is constructed of fine gray limestone, resem- bling marble, in the Doric style of architecture, of which it is a noble specimen. It is 304 ft. long and 184 ft. wide, and is surmounted by a dome 64 ft. in diameter and 157 ft. high. The interior is elegantly finished. The hall of the House of Rep- resentatives is 84 ft. long by 72^ ft. wide, and the Senate-Chambei- is 56 by 72-|- ft. There are also rooms for all the State oflficers, besides 26 committee-rooms. Another very striking building is the State Penitentiary. It is of hewn limestone, in the cas- tellated style, and with its yards and shoi)S covers 6 acres of ground on the E. bank of the Scioto, just below the mouth of the Olentangy. The Central Ohio Lunatic Asylum was burned down in 1868, but a new series of buildings is now being erected for it on 300 acres of elevated ground W. of the city. These buildings will be in the Franco-Italian style, with a frontage of about 1,200 ft., a depth of 300 ft., a central tower 165 ft. high, and a capacity for 600 patients. The Idiot Asylum, a plain Gothic structure, 272 by 198 ft., occupies grounds 123 acres in extent adjoin- ing those of the Lunatic Asylum. The new Blind Asylum, in the E. part of the city, on the grounds of the old one, will be a stone structure, 840 by 270 ft., in tlie Gothic style of the Tudor period. The Deaf and Dumb Asylum, centrally located in extensive and handsome grounds in Town St., cor. Washington Av., is built in the Franco-Italian style, with Mansard roof. The building is 400 ft. long and 380 deep, and has numerous towers, the central one of which is 140 ft. high. The F. S. Arsenal is located in the midst of spacious and handsome grounds, beautifully wooded, in the ■ N. E. suburb of the city. It comprises, besides an immense central structure, nu- merous other buildings, used for offices, quarters, storehouses, etc. There is a fine drive to the Arsenal, and beautiful drives are laid out through and around the grounds. The State has also a large and well-built Arsenal. The City Hall, facing Capitol Square on the S. side of State St., is a handsome Gothic structure, 187i ft. by 80, with a small central tower 138 ft. high. In the third story is the large au- dience-chamber, capable of seating 2,830 persons. The High-School (in Town St.) is a fine building in the simple Norman or church style of architecture. The Holly Water -Works occupy a large building near the junction of the Scioto and Olentangy gg HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. Rivers. The machinery is on a massive scale. The Odd-Felloics' Ball, in High St., near Capitol Square, is a fine specimen of classic Italian, and oi)posite is Opera- House Block, a beautiful specimen of American street architecture, in the florid Ital- ian style. The Opera-House in this block is one of the most elegant in the country. There are 44 churches in the city, and some are fine examples of the decorative period of Gotliic architecture. Most notable among them are Trinity Church (Episcopal), cor. Broad and 3d Sts. ; St. Joseph's Cathedral (Roman Catholic), cor. Broad and 5th Sts. ; the Second Presbijterian, cor. 3d and Cliapel Sts. ; and St. PauVs (Episcopal), cor. High and Mound Sts. The latter is sui-mounted by a graceful spire 216 ft. high, and in the tower is a clock. The State Library, in the Capitol, contains over 30,000 volumes. Starling Medieal College, cor. State and 6th Sts., is a very noble building in the Norman castellated style. It is of brick trimmed with whitish limestone. Capital Universittj (Lutheran) is an unpretentious building in the Italian stvle, surrounded by beautiful grounds, in the N. part of the city. The handsome building of the female seminary of St. Jlary's of the Springs adjoins the city on the E., and near by is the Water-.Cure. The Ohio Agricultural a7id Mechanical College, endowed with the congressional land-grant, was opened in 1873. Of the charitable institutions, the Hare Orphans' Home, the Hannah Neil Mission, and the Lying-in Hospital may be mentioned. The Catholic Asylum for the reclamation of fallen women is W. of the city, and the Sisters of Mercy have* a fine hospital in the city. The County Lnfirmary or Poor-House is a fine struct- ure on a large farm near the city. A convent of the Sisters of the Good Shepherd has been established at Franklin, a suburban town. Goodale Park, presented to the city by Dr. Lincoln Goodale, is at the N. end of j the city, and comprises about 40 acres of native forest, beautifully improved and well kept. City Parle, at the S. end of the city, is about the same size as Goodale Park ' and resembles it in all respects. The grounds of the Franklin Connty Agrienltnral Society, 83 acres in extent, on the E. border of the city, are the finest in the State. In the immediate vicinity are the gardens of the Columlus Horticulttiral Society, occupying 10 acres. Olentangy Pari', N. of the city, has a half-mile race-course. Of the five cemeteries in Columbus, Green Lawn is the most beautiful. After leaving Columbus many small towns are passed, but none are of any im- portance until we reach Piqua (711 m. from New York), which is noted for its charming situation on the W. bank of the Great Miami River, just at a bend which leaves a level plateau between the town and the water's edge, wTiile on the oppo- site side the bank rises somewhat boldly. The Miami Canal passes through the town, and an active business is carried on. Vnion City (742 m.) is the point where the route enters the State of Indiana. Logansport, hid. (833 m.), is an important shipping-point for grain, pork, and lumber, and is the centre of trade for a rich agricultural region. Here are located the extensive car-works of the company, em- ploying 600 workmen, and capable of turning out 3 cars a day. Chicago (949 m.) is described on p. 89. - NEW YORK TO OHIO AGO.— JS O ?7Tf; IV, ^yia " Allectown Line." Distance, 899 m. Time, about 35 hours. Fare, $22.) "• Leaving New York, the traveler crosses the Hudson River (by ferry Irom foot of Liberty St.), and, taking the cars of the Central R. R. of Ncav Jersey at Jersey City, is whirled through Elizabeth (13 m,), Plainjield (24 m.), Somerville (36 m.), and other flourishing towns ; is afforded a glimpse of the mountain-region of New Jersey ; and at Easton (85 m.) crosses the Delaware into Pennsylvania and is trans- ferred (without change of cars) to the line of the Lebanon Valley R. R. Easton is one of the most flourishing towns in Pennsylvania, is one of the great railroad cen- tres of the country, and contains extensive iron-works, mills, distilleries, etc. In the centre of the town is an abrupt peak, called Mount JeflPerson ; and to the E., on Mount Lafayette, is Lafayette College, a richly-endowed institution with a large NEW YORK TO CHICAGO. 89 library and a fine mineral cabinet. Allentown (102 m.) is a beautiful city of 14,000 inhabitants, situated upon elevated ground between Jordan Creek and tlie Lehigh Eiver. It has large iron and other manufactories. The country along tliis portion of the road is exceedingly fertile and picturesque. Reading (138 m.) is the third city of Pennsylvania in manufactures and the fourth in population. It was founded in 1748 by William and Richard Penn. The plain on which tlie city is built rises gradually from the Schuylkill River, and is inclosed on the E. by Penn's Mount, which is several hundred feet high, and forms a part of the South Mountains. The Court-House and several of the churches are fine buildings, and there are immense furnaces, rolling-mills, railroad- shops, etc. At llarrisburg (192 m.) the cars take the track of the Pennsylvania Central R. R., which they follow to Pittsburg, pass- ing over the most attractive portions of the Central road, including the Susquehanna Valley, the crossing of the Alleghanies, tlie superb moimtain-views near Altoona, the valley of the Juniata, and other points of interest (described on p. 76). At Pittsburg (431 m.) we leave the Pennsylvania Central for the Pittsburg, Fort Wayne & Chicago R. R., though through-passengers need not change cars if they have taken the precaution to seat themselves in one of the New York & Chicago through-cars. This road passes through some of the ricliest portions of Ohio and Jndiana, but, as the country is level and for the most part unbroken, it presents no features of a strictly picturesque character. Salem (501 m.) is a pretty town, and one of the most important in the E. section of Ohio. Canton (533 m.) is beautifully situated on the banks of the Nisuishillen Creek, surrounded by a rich farming country, which enjoys the distinction of sending more wheat to market than any other county in the State. Massillon (541 m.) and Mans^field (607 m.) are good specimens of the handsome, compactly-built, and busy towns, with which the State is dotted. Fort Wayne (751 m.) is known as "Summit City," from the fact that it is the point from which the water runs E. and W. It is- one of the most important towns in Indiana, is handsomely laid out, and is at the junction of 4 railroads. The Wabash & Erie Canal passes through the place. Warsaic (791 m.), Plymouth (815 m.), and Valparaiso (855 ra.) are thriving towns. Chicago (899 m.) will now be described. CHICAGO. CHICAGO, the principal city of Illinois, has witliin 40 years grown from a small Indian trading-station to the position of the metropolis of the ISTorthw^est, and the greatest railway centre on the continent. It is situated on the W, shore of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of the Chicago River, in lat. about 41° 50' N., and Ion. 10° 83' W. from Washington. The site of the business portion is 14 ft. above the lake ; it was originally much lower, but has been filled up from 3 to 9 ft. since 1856. It is an inclined plane, rising toward the W. to the height of 28 ft., giving slow but suffi- cient drainage. The city stands on the dividing ridge between the basins of the Mississippi and St. Lawrence, and is surrounded by a prairie stretching several hun- dred miles S., W., and N. One-eighth of a mile N. of the Court-House a bayou, called the Chicago River, extends westward a little more than half a mile, and then divides into the North and South branches, which run nearly parallel with the lake- shore, about 2 m. in each direction. The river and its branches, with numerous slips, afford a water frontage of 38 m., of which 24 m. are improved, without includ- ing the lake-front, on which an outer harbor is now in process of construction. Con- nected with the S. branch is the terminus of the Illinois & Michigan Canal, whi( h extends to the Illinois River at La Salle. Formerly this connection was by means of a lock; but recent improvements have effected a continuous flow of water from the lake through the river into the canal. The city extends N. and S. along the lake about 8 m., and W. from the the lake about 5 m., embracing an area of nearly 35 sq. m. The river divides the city into three distinct parts, known as the North, South, and West Divisions, which are connected by 33 bridges and 2 stone tunnels under the river-bed. The city is regularly laid out, with streets generally 80 ft. wide, and many of them from 3 to 7 m. in length, crossing each other at right angles. The principal thoroughfares run N. and S. 00 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. The first white visitors to the site of Chicago were Joliet and Marquette, who arrived in Aiijijust, 16Y3. The first permanent settlement was made in 1804, during which year Fort Dearborn Avas built b}^ the United States Government. The fort stood near the head of Michisran Ave,, belnw its intersection with Lake St. It was Chicago before the Firp. abandoned in 1812, rebuilt in 1816, and finally demolished in 1856. At the close of 1830, Chicago contained 12 houses and 3 " country " residences in Madison St., with a population (composed of whites, half-breeds, and blacks) of about 100. The town was organized in 1833, and incorporated as a city in 1837. The first frame building was erected in 1832, and the first brick house in 1833. The first vessel entered the harbor June 11, 1834; and at the first ofliicial census taken July 1, 1837, tlie entire population was found to be 4,170. In 1850, the population had increased to 29,963; in 1860, to 112,172; and in 1870, to 298,977. Local estimates placed the population in 1875 at 400,000. In October, 1871, Chicago was the scene of one of the most destructive conflagrations of modei-n times. The fire originated on Sun- day evening, October 8th, in a small barn in De Koven St,, in the S. part of the West Division, from the upsetting, as is supposed, of a lighted kerosene-lamp. The buildings in that quarter were mostly of wood, and there were several lum- ber-yards along the margin of the river. Through these the fiames swept with resistless fury, and were carried across the South branch by the strong westerly wind then prevailing, and thence spread into the South Division, which was closely built up with stores, warehouses, and public buildings of stone, brick, and iron, many of them supposed to be fire-proof. The fire raged all day Monday, .-md crossed the main channel of the Chicago River, sweeping all before it in the North- ern District, which was occupied mostly by dwelling-houses. The last house was not reached till Tuesday morning, and many of the ruins were still burning several months afterward. The total area burned over, including streets, was nearly 3^ sq. m. The number of buildings destroyed was 17,450; persons rendered homeless, 98,500 ; persons killed, about 200. Not including depreciation of real estate, or loss of business, it is estimated that the total loss occasioned by the fire was $190,000,000, of which about $44,000,000 was recovered on insurance, though one of the first results of the fire was to bankrupt many of the insurance companies all over the country. The business of the city was interrupted but a short time, however. Be- CHICAGO. 91 fore winter many of the mercliants were doing business in extemporized wooden structures, and tlie rest in private dwellings. In a year after the tire, a large part of the burnt district had been rebuilt, and at present there is scarcely a trace of the terrible disaster save in the improved character of the new buildings over those de- /'(f The Burned District. stroyed. On July 14, 1874, still another great fire swept over the devoted city, de- stroying 18 blocks, or 60 acres in the heart of the city, and about $4,000,000 worth of property. Over 600 houses were consumed, but fortunately by far the larger number of these were the w^ooden shanties of the poorer classes. All the magnifi- cent structures of the rebuilt section escaped. Chicago ranks next in commercial importance to New York among the cities of the United States. As early as 1854 it had become the greatest primary depot for grain in the w^orld ; and since then it has also become the greatest grain-market in the world. Of breadstufl's, 88,426,842 bushels were received and shipped in 1872; wheat, Indian-corn, and oats, being the principal items. Chicago is also the most important market for live-stock in the United States. The total value of the live- stock received in 1872 was estimated by the Board of Trade at $75,450,000. During the season of 1872-73, 1,456,650 hogs were packed, and 16,080 cattle. Tiie luml)er- trade is a very important item of the city's commerce. Over one Mllion feet of lumber were received during 1873. The manufactures of Chicago are yet in their infancy, but they are already extensive and important, employing about 50,000 per- sons, and including iron and steel works, flour-mills, cotton-factories, boot and shoe factories, and tanneries. It is estimated that nearly one-third of the commerce of the city is based upon its manufacturing products. Hotels, Rei^tanrauts, and Clnbs. — Most of the old and well-known hotels of Chicago perished in the great fire, but those which have taken their places are probably unequaled in the world. The Palmer House is an immense fire-proof structure of iron and brick, occupying the entire block in State St., between Wabash Ave. and Monroe St. The building is one of the most imposing in the city, and its interior decorations are very fine ($3.50 to $6 a day). The Grand Pacific Hotel is in no re- spect inferior to the preceding. It occupies the entire block bounded by Jackson, Clark, Quincy, and La Salle Sts., is of stone, six stories high, and is richly deco- rated and sumptuously furnished ($3.50 to $7 a day). The Sherman House^ cor. 92 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAxX CITIES. Eandolph and Clark Sts., is near the business centre of the city ($3.50 and $4 a day). The Tremont House^ cor. Lake and Dearborn Sts., is one of the finest of the new build- ings ($3.50 to $5 a day). Good hotels on a more modest scale are : the Central Hotel,, in Market St., near Madison ($2.50 a day) ; the Metropolitan,, cor. State and Wash- ington Sts. ($2.50 a day) ; the Massasoit House, opposite the Union Depot ($2 a day) ; the Atlantic, cor. Van Buren and Sherman Sts. ($2.50 a day) ; and the Commercial, cor. Lake and Dearborn Sts. There are also several good hotels on the European plan, prominent among which are Burhe''8 and Kuhn^s. The principal restaurants are the Palmer House (in connection with the hotel), cor. State and Monroe Sts. ; the Tremont House (in connection with the hotel), cor. Lake and Dearborn Sts. ; Thos. Andrews, 85 Dearborn St. ; BurMs, 140 and 142 Madison St. ; and Thomson^ s, 81 Clark St. The livoli Garden, described further on, is frequented by both sexes. Most of the club-houses were destroyed in the great fire, and the clubs tempo- rarily broken up. There are several active social organizations in the city, however, the privileges of which may be obtained on introduction by a member. Railroad Depots. — The Union Depot, in Van Buren St. at the head of La Salle, is one of the largest and finest in the country. It is of stone, and is used by the Chi- cago, Rock Island & Pacific R. R., and by the Lake Shore & Michigan Southern R. R. The Central Depot is another handsome and spacious stone structure, situ- ated at the foot of Lake St. ; it is used by the Illinois Central, the Michigan Central, and the Burlington & Quincy Railroads. The Wells Street Depot, cor. IST. Wells and Kinzie Sts., is used by the Western Division of the Chicago & Northwestern R. R. ; the Kinzie Street Depot, cor. Canal and W. Kinzie Sts., is used by the Northern Division of the same road. Modes of Conveyance. — Horse-cars traverse the city in all directions, affording cheap and easy communication (fare 5c.). The great centre of the horse-car routes is at the cor. of State and Randolph Sts. Parmelee's omnihuses are in waiting at the depots, and convey passengers to hotels or to other depots (fare 50c.). There are also lines of omnihuses running S. on Wabash Ave., W. on Washington and Adams Sts., and N. to Lincoln Park (fare lOc). Carriages are in waiting at the depots and steamboat-landings, as well as at hotels, and around Court-House Square. The rates of fare are regulated b^Mavv, and are as follows: For 1 passenger from one depot to another, 50c. ; for 1 passenger 1 m. or less, 50c. ; over 1 m. and less than 2 m. $1 ; over 2 m., $1.50; each additional passenger, 50c.; children between 5 and 14 years of age, half- rates. By the hour, $2 for the first hour and $1 for each additional hour. Between midnight and 7 a. m. each trip (without regard to dis- tance or number of passengers), $2. In case of disagreement call for a policeman or drive to a police-station. Streets and Drives.— -S^^a;^^ St. is the Broadway of Chicago, and on it or near it are the finest commercial structures, hotels, retail stores, and the like. Other important business streets are Lake, Clarh, La Salle, RandolpTi, Deariorn, Adams, Monroe, Madison, and Washington. In fact, there is scarcely a street in the South or busi- ness district which does not contain some notably fine buildings. The finest resi- dences are in Walash and Michigan Avenues, which are of a semi-suburban charac- ter, adorned with rows of luxuriant trees, and bordered by villas surrounded with beautifully ornamented grounds. Scarcely inferior are Prairie Ave., South Parh Ave., West Washington St., and North LJearlorn St. The favorite drives are out Wabash and Michigan Avenues ; through the parks and boulevards, especially to Hyde ParTc, where there is bathing ; to Rirerside, a pretty suburban town on the W. side (13 m.) ; and to Lal^e View, on the N". side, beyond Lincoln Park. Public and Prominent Buildings. — The Court-House, Custom-House and Post-Oflnice, Chamber of Commerce, and most of the other public buildings of the city, were burned down in the great fire,, and have not been replaced as rapidly as the busi- ness structures destroyed at the same time. A new Custom- House and Post- Office is being erected on a site a little S. of the old one. It will be one of the finest public buildings in tlie country, occupying an entire block, and costing upward of $3,500,000. A new Court-House, estimated to cost $2,000,000, is going up in CHICAGO. 93 Court-House Square. The Chamber of Commerce has been rebuilt on the old site in Washington St., opposite Court-House Square, and is one of the finest and most complete buildings of the kind in the world. Its interior decorations are very elaborate. The Board of Trade meets here, and strangers will find it interesting to visit the ladies' gallery during the daily session (from 11 a. m. to 1 p. xM.) ; or any gentleman is admitted to the fioor on introduction by a member. The new hotels, already mentioned, are among the finest buildings in the city; as are also the Cen- tral Bepot^ at the foot of Lake St., and the Union iJepot^ in Van Bnren St. at the head of La Salle. The new and handsome brown-stone building of the Chicago Trihune^ cor. Dearborn and Madison Sts., is worthy of notice. Other representa- tive structures are Greeiibaum'' s BanTc Building^ in 5th Ave., the Chicago Savings Institution^ cor. Madison and Dearborn Sts., and Hale's Bloch^ 200 to 206 Ran- dolph St. Theati-es and Places of Amnsement. — The far-famed Crosby's Opera-House was burned down in the fire of 1871, and has not been rebuilt, though a new one is in con- templation. 31c Vicl-ers Theatre^ near the cor. of State and Madison Sts., is one of the finest in the country. Hooleyh^ just W. of the Sherman House, is also a beauti- ful theatre. The Academy of Music, in Halstead St. near Madison, was built in 8 weeks after the fire, and has since been enlarged and improved. Ailcen'^s Theatre, cor. Wabash Ave. and Congress St., and Myer''s Opera-House (minstrels), in Monroe St. near State, are new. The Glohe Theatre, in Desplaines St. near Madison, is devoted to legitimate drama, and has a good company. The Dexter Park race- course is located near the LTnion Stock-Yards. The vShooting-Club has a park close by, and in the season keeps about 25,000 pigeons in cages and houses for practice and matches. Charches.— There are about 180 church edifices in Chicago, including those un- touched by the fire and those which have since been rebuilt. Among the most notable are : Tnity Church (Unitarian) in X. Dearborn St. cor. Lafayette Place, a white-marble structure, in the modern Gothic style, with double spires. The Second Presbyterian, cor. Michigan Ave. and 18th St., is a large and imposing stone structure. The Michigan Avenue Baptist Church, in Michigan Avenue near 24th St., is of stone, in the Gothic style, with a graceful tower and spire. St. James''s (Episcopal), cor. Cass and Huron Sts., is large and massive, with a sijuare flanking tower. The Union Park Congregational, cor. Ashland Ave. and Washington St., has a lofty spire and is quite ornate in style. The Second BcqDtist, cor. Monroe and Morgan Sts., is a plain edifice in the Italian style, with a most peculiar spire. The Twelfth Street Church (Roman Catholic) is pure Gothic in style and has an ex- tremely rich and noble interior. Libraries, Edncational and Charitable Institutions, etc. — The old Custom-House build- ing, cor. Dearborn and Monroe Sts., has been sold to the city and fitted up as a Public Lihrary, the nucleus of which w^as contributed by English authors and pub- lishers in 1872. The collection now comprises about 8,000 volumes. The Christian Union has a library, reading-room, gymnasium, etc. The Academy of Sciences, established in 1857, lost a valuable collection of 38,000 specimens in the fire, but has erected a new building on the old site (in Wabash Ave. near Van Buren St.), and is slowly gatliering a new museum and library. The rniversity of Chicas:o, founded by the late Stephen A. Douglas, occupies a beautiful site, overlooking Lake Michi- gan, at Cottage Grove, 4 m. S. of Court-House Square (reached by State St. cars). The main building, 136 by 172 ft., was completed in 1866, at a cost of $110,000. The S. wing has recently been added. When finished the edifice will be one of the most commodious and elegant in the West. Bearhorn Ohservatory, adlomm^ the University on the W., contains a Clark refracting telescope, which is one of the largest and best in the world. It has 23 ft. focal length and 18.V inches aperture. The Baptist Theological Seminary has a large and handsome building in rear of the University. The Chicago Theological Seminary has a fine stone building in the Norman style on the W. side of Union Square, at the intersection of Reuben and Warren Sts. The Presbyterian Theological Seminary has a fine edifice, recently erected at the cor. of Fulierton Ave. and Halstead St. It is 5 stories high, and con- 94 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. tains a good library. The St. Ignatins College (Roman Catholic) has an elegant building, I^o. 413 W. 12th St. There are 6 medical colleges in the city, of which the most noteworthy is the Rush Medical College^ founded in 1842, and with a new and stately building at the cor. of N. Dearborn and Indiana Sts. The Chicago Medical College has a large structure at the cor. of Prairie Ave. and 26th St. The Hahnemann College (Homoeopathic) is at the cor. of Cottage Grove Ave. and 28th St. The Cooh County Hospital^ erected in 1856, is a spacious structure at the cor. of 18th and Arnold Sts. xllercy Hospital is an immense building at the cor. of Calu- met Ave. and 28th St., well worth visiting (take Indiana Ave. cars). Other im- portant charitable institutions are the Magdalen Asylum, in N. Market St. ; the Home for the Friendless, No. 911 Wabash Ave.; tha Protestant Orphan Asylum, cor. Michigan Ave. and 22d St. ; and St. Jose2)h''s (male) and St. Mary''s (female) Orphan Asylums, in IST. State St. cor. Superior St. The two last named are under the charge of the Sisters of Mercy. A new Marine Hosi:)ital, one of the largest and most costly in the country, is located at Lake View, a little beyond Lincoln Park. Parks, BonlcTards, and Cemeteries. — Chicago has a magnificent system of public parks, authorized in 1869, and partially improved previous to the fire, since which the work has proceeded more slowly. There are six parks, aggregating nearly 1,900 acres, which are connected by a cordon of boulevards 250 ft. wide, extending around the three land-sides of the city, with a drive on the lake-shore. These give 33 m. of drives, besides those around the parks. Lincoln Park, on the lake-shore, in the Northern Division, contains about 230 acres, and has 5 m. of drives and walks, fine trees, artificial hills and mounds, miniature lakes and streams, summer-houses, rustic bridges, and shady rambles. Open-air concerts are given here on Saturday afternoons in summer. From the X. end of Lincoln Park a boulevard, 3| m. long, extends W. to Humboldt Parle, which contains 193^ acres, and is only partially im- proved. About 2 m. S. of Humboldt Park, with which it is connected by a similar boulevard, is Central Pari', an irregular tract of land nearly a mile long from N. to S., and containing 171 acres, the middle line of which lies on Madison St., 4 m. from the Court House. From this park the Douglas Boulevard runs 1^ m. S. E. to Douglas Parl\ which also contains 171 acres. From this another boulevard runs S. 4| m., thence E. 4^ m. to the two South Parks, containing 1,055 acres, which are tastefully laid out. The most southerly extends upward of 1^ m. along the shore of the Lake. Two boulevards run thence to the well-paved streets that con- nect with the business portion of the city. Inion Park (reached by Madison and Randolph St. cars or by Washington St. stages) is located in the very centre of the residence portion of the West Division. Though containing only 17 acres, the judi- cious expenditure of $100,000 on lakelets, drives, hills, pagodas, zoological gardens, and admirable landscape-gardening, has rendered its apparent size much greater. There are open-air concerts here every Wednesday evening in summer. Lake Parle, on the S. side, running about 1 m. on the lake-shore, though unimproved itself, is ornamented by the elegant Michigan Ave. residences, and is a favorite promenade on summer evenings. Jefferson Park, one of the smaller public squares, contains a handsome fountain. Of the cemeteries, Graceland, Rose-Hill, and Calvary, in the North Division, are the most interesting. The last two are on the line of the Chicago & Milwaukee R. R. Oakwood, on the Vincennes road, 3 m. S. of the city limits, is a pretty rural spot. This cemetery can be reached by horse-cars and dummy, or by a pleasant drive through the boulevards. Water- Works and Tunnels. — The system by which Chicago is supplied with water has been called one of the wonders of the world. The Water -Works are situated on the lake- shore in the North Division (take N. Clark St. cars and get ofl^ at Chi- cago Ave)., and may be inspected on application to the engineer in charge. They comprise a stone water-tower, 130 ft. high, up which the water is forced by 4 engines, having a pumping capacity of 72,000,000 gallons daily, and flows thence through pipes to every part of the city. A very fine view of the city, lake, and surrounding country, may be obtained from the top of the tower, which is reached CHICAGO. 95 by a spiral staircase. From this tower a nearly cylindrical brick tunnel, 62 inch- es high and 60 wide, extends 2 m. under the lake, lying 66 to 70 ft. below the lake-surface. The water enters the tunnel through a grated cylinder, inclosed in an immense crib, on which a lighthouse and signal-station are to be constructed. The tunnel was begun in 1864 and finished in 1866, at a cost of $815,139. Another tun- nel, 7 ft. in diameter, was commenced in 1873, which will connect with the crib, and, through independent pumping-works, supply the S. W. section of the city. Another abundant source of water-supply has been recently developed in the Arte- sian Wells, of which there are about 40. Tlie first two sunk are situated at the intersection of Chicago and Western Avenues (reached by W. Randolph St. cars), are respectively 911 and 694 ft. deep, and flow about 1,200,000 gallons daily. It is noteworthy that they were sunk in 1864, under the direction of a medium who prophesied that oil would be found there — and ju'ophesied falsely. The stock-yards, the west-side parks, and numerous manufacturing establishments, are sui)plied from artesian wells. Until recently intercourse between the three divisions of the city was effected only by 33 bridges, which span the river at intervals of two squares, and swing on central pivots to admit the passage of vessels. These bridges, however, are a seri- ous impediment to navigation, as well as to vehicles and pedestrians ; and, in order to obviate the inconvenience, and secure uninterrupted communication between the South and West Divisions, a Tunnel was constructed in 1868 under the South Branch at Washington St. It is 1,608 ft. long, with a descent of 26 ft., has a double roadway for vehicles and a separate passage for pedestrians, and cost $400,000. In 1870 another similar tunnel, with a total length of 1,890 ft., including approaches, was constructed under the main river on the line of La Salle St., connecting the North and South Divisions (cost $549,000). It is now contemplated to substitute tunnels for bridges at many other points along the river. Miscellaneons Places of Interest. — No visitor to Chicago should fail to inspect the Fniou Stofk-Yards, where the vast live-stock trade of the city is transacted (reached by State St. cars, or by trains every few minutes). The yards comprise 345 acres, of which 100 are in pens, and have 31 m. of drainage, 7 m. of streets and alleys, 2,300 gates, and cost $1,675,000. They have capacity for 21,000 cattle, 75,000 hogs,- 22,000 sheep, and 200 horses. There is a large and handsome brick hotel connected with the yards ; also a Bank and a Board of Trade. Quite a large town (4,000 in- habitants) has sprung up in the immediate vicinity, with post-office, telegraph-ofiice, churches, schools, etc. The scene is very animated and interesting during the day. The Grain- Elevators are also a very interesting feature, and should be visited, in order to obtain an idea of the manner in which the immense grain-trade of Chicago is carried on. There are 15 of these buildings, all situated on the banks of the river, and connected with the railroads by side-tracks. They have an aggregate storage capacity of 12,800,000 bushels, and receive and discharge grain with almost incredi- ble dispatch. Porlc-jmcking is a highly-interesting process. The hogs are driven up an inclined plane to a pen in the upper part of the packing-house. A chain or cord attached to a pulley in a sliding frame near the ceiling is slipped over one leg, the hog is jerked up, his throat cut, the body lowered into a long vat of boiling water, lifted out, scraped, disemboweled, and hung up to cool. When cooled, the bodies are cut up into " meats," salted, and packed. The largest houses are in the vicinity of the Stock-Yards, and are usually open to the inspection of visitors. The Tiroli Garden (in the Exchange Building, cor. Washington and Clark Sts.) is one of the city sights. It is a compound of restaurant, beer-garden, and concert-saloon, and is richly furnished and decorated. The Exjjosition Building is a spacious and elegant structure of iron and glass, in Lake Park, at the foot of Adams St. An exhibition of art and industrial products is held here every summer. The Douglas Monument occupies a site formerly owned by Senator Douglas himself, and since purchased from Mrs. Douglas for $30,000. The monument consists of a circular base, 52 ft. in diameter, a pedestal 21 ft., and a column 43 ft. high, surmounted by a sphere, upon which a bronze statue of Douglas, 12 ft. higli, is to be placed. The en- tire height of the monument, when completed, will be 100 ft., and the cost $75,000, 96 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. CHICAGO TO MILWAUKEE. (Fea Chicago & Northwestern R.R. Distance, 85 m. Time, 2>^-3 hrs.) This road runs along the W. shore of Lake Michigan through a rich farming re- gion, well cultivated and populous. The only important town on the route is Racine (62 m.), which is the second city of Wisconsin in population and commerce. It is pleasantly situated at the mouth of Root River, on the shore of Lake Michigan, on a plain about 40 ft. above the water, and has one of the best harbors on the lake. The city is handsomely laid out in wide and well-paved streets, on which are numer- ous fine public buildings, large warehouses, manufactories, and stores. Racine Col- lege (Episcopal) is one of the most prominent educational institutions in the West. Racine was settled in 1835, was incorporated as a city in 1848, and in 1870 had a population of 13,282. MILWAUKEE. Hotels: The Newhcvll House ($4 a day), the largest in the Northwest outside of Chicago ; the PlanMnton House^ an old and favorite resort; the Wallcer House^ and the Junean House, both in Water St., convenient to the business portion of the city. MILWAUKEE, the commercial capital of Wisconsin, and, next to Chicago, the largest city in the J^Torthwest, is situated on the W. shore of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of Milwaukee River. This river flows through the city, and with the Menomonee, with which it forms a junction, divides it into three nearly equal dis- trict?*, which are severally known as the East, West, and South Divisions. The river has been rendered navigable to the heart of the city by vessels of any tonnage used on the lakes, and is regarded as the best harbor on the S. or W. shore of Lake Michigan. The climate of Milwaukee is peculiarly bracing and healthful, and the atmosphere remarkably clear and pure. The city embraces an area of 17 sq. m., and is regularly laid out. The centre, near the Milwaukee and Menomonee Rivers, is the business quarter ; and the E. and W. parts, the former of which is built upon a high bluff overlooking the lake, while the latter is still more elevated, are occupied by residences. The peculiar cream-color of the " Milwaukee brick," of which many of the buildings are constructed, gives the city a unique and pretty appearance, and has earned for it the name of the " Cream City of the Lakes." The streets, except those in the commercial quarter, are generally well shaded. Mil- waukee was settled in 1835, and incorporated as a city in 1846. Its population in 1840 was 1,712; in 1860, 45,246; in 1870, 71,440; and in 1874 the local authori- ties estimated it at from 95,000 to 100,000. The Germans constitute nearly one- half the entire population, and their influence upon the social life of the inhabit- ants is everywhere seen. Breweries and lager-bier saloons, gardens, gasthausen, music-halls, and restaurants abound ; and on the street one hears German spoken quite as often as English. The commerce of Milwaukee is very large, wheat and flour being the most important items. In 1873 there were shipped from this port 24,994,266 bushels of wheat and 1,805,200 barrels of flour. The storage accommodations for grain comprise six elevators, with a combined capacity of 3,450,000 bushels ; and the flour-mills are on an immense scale. Butter, wool, hides, and lumber, are also important articles of trade. The manufactures are extensive, and embrace lager- bier (which is highly esteemed and widely exported), pig-iron and iron castings, leather, machinery, agricultural implements, steam-boilers, car-wheels, furniture, and tobacco and cigars. The product of the blast-furnaces and rolling-mills for 1873 was valued at about $3,500,000 ; of the flouring-mills, $5,000,000 ; of the breweries, $2,600,000; of the distilleries, $1,500,000; and of the tanneries, $3,000,- 000. East Water St. and Sjjring St. are very wide and handsome thoroughfares, and on them are the principal hotels and retail stores. Among the public buildings, the finest is the United States €nstom-Hoose, which also contains the Post- Office and the MILWAUKEE. 97 U. S. Courts. It is of Athens stone, and stands on the cor. of AVisconsin and Mil- waukee Sts. The new County Conrt-Honse is a handsome ediiice. The Music IJaJl has an elegant auditorium, with sittings for 2,300 persons. It was erected in 1864, at a cost of $65,000, and is owned by the German Musical Society. The Opera- Souse and the Academy of Music are fine buildings, the latter being used for theat- rical performances, and having 800 sittings. There are several banking-houses Milwaukee. which have large and imposing buildings. The most prominent church edifice in the city is the Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. John. The new Baptist CTiinrh is also a handsome structure. Of the literary institutions the most prominent is the Mil- icaukee Female College, which, in 1873, had 6 instructors and 118 students. The Young Men's Association has a library of 11,000 volumes, and a well-supplied read- ing-room. The Northwestern National Asylnni (for disabled soldiers) is an immense brick building, about 3 m. from the city, having accommodations for 700 or 800 in- mates. The institution has a reading-room, and a library of 2,500 volumes. The grounds embrace 425 acres, more than half of which is under cultivation, the residue being laid out as a park. In the city there are three orphan asylums, a Home for the Friendless, and two hospitals. Several of the industrial establishments are well worth a visit, especially the Grain-Elevator of the Milwaukee & St. Paul R. R. This immense structure has a storage capacity of 1,500,000 bushels, and is one of the largest on the continent. The flour-mill of Betschey & Kern has a capacity for pro- ducing 1,000 barrels of flour daily; and the rolling-mill of E. B. Ward is one of the most extensive in the West. NEW YORK TO CINCINNATI.— 2? OC/T^ /. {Via Erie E. K. and Atlactic & Great Western E. R. [Dit^tance, 861 m. Time, about aO hrs. Fare, $20.) As far as Salamanca, New York (418 m.), this is identical with Route II. from New York to Chicago. (See page 82.) At Salamanca the train takes the line of the Atlantic & Great Western road, crossing the N. W. corner of Pennsylvania and passing through the heart of the oil-region. Freehold (465 m.) is the flrst station in Pennsylvania. Corry (474 m.) came into existence as the result of the discovery of oil, the first building ever erected there being a small eating-house, in August, 1861. Qg HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. It promises to become an important manufacturing town and railroad centre. Meadmlle (516 m.) is one of the oldest towns W. of the Alleghanies, and is now the centre of a large trade with the oil-region. It is the seat of Alleghany College, founded in 1816, and of the Western Theological Seminary (Unitarian), founded in 1844. Among the more prominent edifices are a State arsenal, an academy, and several churches. Orangeville (555 m.) is the first station in Ohio. Ah^on, 0. (6.16 m.), is an attractive and prosperous place, lying in the midst of a fine agricultural region, at the junction of the Ohio & Pennsylvania with the Ohio & Erie Canal. Mansfield (682 m.) has already been mentioned. {See p. 89.) Urlana (766 m.) is a charming village, in which some manufacturing is done, and which contains several churches, banks, and a Srt^edenborgian College. Springfield (780 m.), one of the most beautiful cities in the State, is situated at the confluence of the Lagonda Creek and Mad River, both of which furnish excellent water-power, which is utihzed in numerous manufactures. Many of the stores and residences are elegant, and there are also several handsome churches. Daytou (801 m.) is on the E. bank of the Great Miami River, at the moutli of Mad River, and, with its broad and beautifully-shaded streets, elegant private residences, and fine public buildings, is one of the handsomest cities in the country. The Court- House is particularly noticeable as one of the finest in the West. The most attractive feature of Dayton to the tourist is the Central Kational Soldiers' Home, situated on a picturesque elevation, 4 m. from the city, and reached by horse-cars. The Home is an extensive group of fine, large buildings, over 40 in number, including a handsome church, built of native white limestone, and a splen- did hospital, said to be the best adapted to its purpose of any in the United States. The latter is of red brick, with freestone facings and trimmings, and accommodates 800 patients. The principal other buildings are a brick dining-hall, capable of seat- ing 3,000 persons, a fine library, a music-hall, billiard-room, bowling-alley, head- quarters building, and several barracks for the men. The grounds embrace an area of 640 acres, well shaded with natural forest-trees, and are handsomely laid out, with winding avenues, a deer-park, stocked from Lookout Mountain, a beautiful artificial lake, a natural grotto, hot-houses, and flower-beds. Haynilton (836 m.) is a pretty town, situated on both sides of the Miami River. Cincinnati (861 m.) is described on p. 101. NEW YORK TO CINOINNATL— JJ O t/TjEJ IT, {Via " Panhandle Koute." Distance 758 m. Time, 28 hrs. Fare, $20.) ' \ As far as Columbus, Ohio (638 m.), this route is identical with Route III. from New York to Chicago. {See p. 86.) At Columbus the train takes the line of the Little Miami R. R., extending S. AV. through a rich and populous prairie country, dotted with towns and villages. London (663 m.) is a pretty town, capital of Mad- ison County, and containing a fine union schoolhouse. Xenia (693 m.) is, like a large proportion of Ohio towns, regularly and handsomely built, the streets being shaded with large forest-trees. The surrounding country is undulating, fertile, and highly cultivated. Milford (744 m.) is a flourishing village on the opposite bank of the Little Miami River. It is connected with the R. R. station by a bridge. Gin- cianati (758 m.) is described on p. 101. BALTIMORE TO CINCINNATI. (P^a Baltimore & Ohio E. R. Distance, 589 m. Time, about 22 lirs. Fare, $16.) The grandeur of the scenery along the line of the Baltimore & Ohio R. R. makes it one of the most attractive routes that tourists can take, and it possesses the addi- tional interest of having been the theatre of some of the most exciting scenes in the late civil war, during which it sufi'ered severely by the destruction of its track, bridges, and rolling-stock. Baltimore, the principal city of Maryland, has already been described. {See p. 36.) In leaving Baltimore by this road the train no sooner emerges from the dingy suhurbs than the pleasures of the trip commence. Looking back we obtain a fine view of the city, and then cross Carrollton Viaduct^ a fine NEW YORK TO CINCINNATI— BALTIMORE TO CINCINNATI. 99 ibriclge of dressed granite, with an arch of 80 ft. span, over Gwinn's Falls, after which the road soon enters the long and deep excavation under the Washington turnpike. Less than a mile farther the "deep cut" is encountered, famous for its difhculties in the early history of the road. It is 76 ft. deep and nearly -^ m. long. Beyond this the road crosses the deep ravine of Robert's Run, and, skirting the ore- banks of the old Baltimore Iron Company, now covered by a dense forest of cedar- trees, comes to the long and deep embankment over the valley of Gadsby's Run, and the heavy cut through Vinegar Hill immediately following it. At Washington Junc- tion (9 m.) the open country of sand and clay ends, and the region of rock begins at the entrance to the gorge of the Patapsco River. In entering this defile there is a fine view of the Thomas Viaduct, a noble granite structure of 8 elliptic arches, spanning the stream at a height of 66 ft. above the bed, and nearly 700 ft. long. Mlicotfs Mills (14 m.) is in a bold, rocky passage of the Patapsco, which runs leap- ing and dashing through tlie village, in full view from the car-window, ^ear Elys- mile (20 m.) the road twice crosses the river, the first time by a viaduct 330 ft. long, and the second time by one of nearly 300 f\. From the summit of the ridge at Mount Airy (42 ra.) is a noble view westward across the Fredericktown Valley, and as far as the Catoctin Mountains, 15 m. distant. The road thence descends into the valley of Bush Creek, a stream of moderate curves and gentle slopes, except where it breaks through ranges of trap-rock. Fredericl Junction (58 m.), better known as Monocacy, is near the battle-ground where, on the 9th of July, 1864, the Federals were defeated by a superior Confederate force. From this point to the Point of Rocks, the road, having escaped from tlie narrow, winding valleys to which it has thus far been confined, bounds away over the beautiful champaign country extending to the Catoctin Mountains, a continuation of the Blue Ridge. Point of Rocks (69 m.) takes its name from a bold promontory, which is formed by the pro- file of the Catoctin Mountain, against the base of wliich the Potomac River runs on the Maryland side, the mountain towering up on the opposite (Virginia) shore, form- ing the other barrier to the pass. 'The railroad passes the Point by a tunnel, 1,500 ft. long, cut through the solid rock. Beyond, the ground becomes comparatively smooth, and the railroad, leaving the immediate margin of tlie river to the canal, runs along the base of gently-sloping hills, passing the villages of Berlin and Knox- ville, and reaching the Weverton Factories, in the pass to the South Mountain. From South Mountain to Harper's Ferry the road lies along the foot of a precipice for the greater part of the distance of 3m., the last of which is immediately under the rocky clitfs of Elk Mountain, forming the N. side of this noted pass. The Shenandoah River enters the Potomac just below the bridge over the latter, and their united currents rush rapidly over the broad ledges of rock which stretch across their bed. The length of the bridge, over river and canal, is about 900 ft., and at its W. end it bifurcates, the left-hand branch connecting with the Winchester & Potomac R. R., which passes directly up the Shenandoah, and the right-hand carry- ing the main road, by a strong curve in that direction, up the Potomac. Harper's Ferry (81 m.) is delightfully situated in Jeff*erson Co., W. Virginia, at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers, the town itself being compactly but irregu- larly built around the base of a hill. Before the civil war it was the seat of an ex- tensive and important United States armory and arsenal ; but these were destroyed during the war, and have not been rebuilt. The scenery around Harper's Ferry is wonderfully picturesque. Thomas Jefferson pronounced the passage of the Potomac through the Blue Ridge "one of the most stupendous scenes in Nature, and well Avorth a voyage across the Atlantic to witness." The tourist should stop here for at least one day, and climb either Maryland Heights (across the Potomac) or Bolivar Heights (above the town). A short distance above Harper's Ferry the road leaves the Potomac and passes up the ravine of Elk Branch, which, at first narrow and serpentine, widens gradually until it almost loses itself in the rolling table-land which characterizes the " Valley of A^irginia." The head of Elk Branch is reached in about 9 m., and thence the line descends gradually over an undulating country to the crossing of Opequan Creek. Beyond the crossing, the road enters the open valley of Tuscarora Creek, which it 100 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. crosses twice and follows to the town of Martinsburg (100 m.), where the railroad company have built extensive shops. Seven miles beyond Martinsburg the road crosses ITorth Mountain by a long excavation, and enters a poor and thinly-settled district covered chiefly with a forest in which stunted pine prevails. The Potomac Harper's Ferrj^ is again reached at a point opposite the ruins of Fort Frederick, on the Maryland side. 8ii' John^s Run (128 m.) is the point of departure for Berkeley Springs (2| m. distant), and just beyond the station the track sweeps around the Cacapon Mountain, opposite the remarkable insulated hill called "Round Top." The next point of interest is the Doe Gully Tunnel (1,200 ft. long). The approaches are very imposing, as for several miles above and below the tunnel they cause the road to occupy a high level on the slopes of the river-hills, and thus afford extensive views of the grand mountain scenery around. The Paw-Paw Tunnel is next reached, and, after passing through some 20 m. of rugged and impressive scenery, we cross the N. branch of the Potomac by a viaduct TOO ft. long and enter Maryland. Cnmberland (178 m.) is in the mountain-region of the narrow strip w^hich forms the W. part of Maryland, and in point of population and commerce is its second city. The en- trance to the town is beautiful, and displays the noble amphitheatre in which it lies to great advantage, the gap of WilFs Mountain, W. of the town, being a promi- nent feature of the view. From Cumberland to Piedmont (28 m.) the scenery is remarkably picturesque. For the first 22 m., to the mouth of New Creek, the Knobly Mountain bounds the valleys of the N. branch of the Potomac on the left, and Will's and Dan's Mountains on the r. ; thence to Piedmont, the river lies in the gap which it has cut through the latter mountain. The crossing of the Potomac from Maryland to Virginia is 21 m. from Cumberland, and the view from the bridge, both up and down the river, is very fine. At Piedmont (206 m.) the ascent of the Alleghanies is commenced, and Altamont (223) is upon the extreme summit of the range. From Altamont westward for nearly 20 m. are beautiful natural meadows (known as the "Glades") lying along the upper waters of the Youghiogheny River, and its numerous tributaries, divided by ridges of moderate elevation and gentle slope, with fine ranges of mountains in the background. The descent of 11 m. to Cheat River presents a succession of very heavy excavations, embankments, and tunnels, and at the foot the famous Cheat Piver Valley is crossed, with fine views on either side. For several miles on this part of the line the road runs along the CINCINNATI. 101 steep mountain-side, presenting a succession of magnificent landscapes. Descending from Cassidy's Ridge, wliicli forms the W. boundary of Cheat Pwiver Valley, the train soon reaches the great /i7/?^^^(?o^ Tunnel, which is 4,100 ft. long and cost $1,000,000; and, 2 m. beyond, Murray's Tunnel. 250 ft. long. ^ Grafton (279 m.) is the end of the mountain division of the road, and from this j)oint to the Ohio River it passes through a country which is well wooded, and rich in coal and petroleum, but without interest for the tourist. At Parl'erslurg (383 m.) the train crosses the Ohio River on a splendid bridge, li m. long, with 6 spans over the river and 43 approaching spans, completed in 1871, at a cost of over $1,000,000. Athens (429 m.) is pleasantly situated on the Hocking River. The Ohio University, the oldest in the State (founded in 1804), is located here; also one of the State Lunatic Asylums. ChilUcothe (490 m.) is picturesquely situated on a plateau through which flows the Scioto River. It was founded in 1794, and from 1800 to 1810 was the capital of the State. It is now a handsome and thriving town. Cincinnati (589 m.) is described below. CINCINNATI. GINOINNATI, the chief city of Ohio, is situated on the X. bank of the Ohio River, in lat. 39° 6' N^. and Ion. 84° 27' W. It has a frontage of 10 m. on the river, and extends back about 3 m., occupying half of a valley bisected by the river, on the opposite side of which are the cities of Covington and Xewport, Ky. It is surrounded by hills from 400 to 4(35 ft. in height, forming one cf the most beautiful amphitheatres on the continent, from whose hilltops may le seen the splendid panorama of the cities below, and the winding Ohio. Ko other large city in the United States affords such a variety of position and scenery. Cincinnati is princi- pally built upon two terraces, the first 60 and the second 112 ft. above the river. The latter has been graded to an easy slope, terminating at the base of the hills. The streets are laid out with great regularity, crossing each other at right angles, are broad and well paved, and for the most part beautifully shaded. The business portion of the city ig compactly built, a fine drab freestone being the material chiefly used. The outer highland belt of the city is beautified by elegant residences 8 102 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. which stand in the midst of extensive and highly-adorned grounds. Here ^the favorite building material is blue limestone. Cincinnati was settled in 1788, but for a number of years a continual series of difficulties with the Indians retarded the progress of the town. In 1800 it had grown to 750 inhabitants, and in 1814 it was incorporated as a city. About 1830 the Miami Canal was built, and during the next 10 years the population increased 85 per cent. In 1840 the Little Miami, the first of the many railroads now centring at Cincinnati, was finished, and in 1850 the population had increased to 115,436. In 1860 it was 161,044, and in 1870, 216,239. The central position of Cincinnati in relation to extensive producing regions and to leading channels of commerce has rendered it one of the most important commercial centres of the West ; but manu- factures constitute its chief interest. In 1875 there were 4,469 manufacturing estabhshments whose products were valued at $144,000,000. Iron, furniture, boots and shoes, beer and whiskey, machinery, and steamboats, are leading items in the product ; but pork-packing is the principal industry. In this branch Cincinnati ranks next to Chicago, 563,359 hogs having been packed in 1875-6. Hotels, Restaurants, and Clubs. — The Qrand Hotel is a new and handsome structure, cor. 4th St. and Central Ave. ($4 a day). The Burnet Eouse^ cor. 3d and Vine Sts., has been for more than a quarter of a century the principal hotel of Cincinnati ($4 a day). The Gibson House, in Walnut between 4th and 5th Sts., is large and centrally located ($4 a day). Other good hotels are the St. James ($2.50 a day), in E. 4th St. between Main and Sycamore; Walnut Street House ($2.50 a day), in Walnut between 6th and 7th Sts. ; Crawford House ($2.50 a day), cor. 6th and Walnut Sts. ; Mercliants'' Hotel ($2.50 a day), in 5th St. between Main and Syca- more ; and the Gait House ($2 a day), cor. 6th and Main Sts. Good hotels on the European plan are the St. ISficholas, cor, 4th and Race Sts., and Kepx^er^s Hotel, in 4th St. between Plum St. and Central Ave. (rooms $1 to $3 a day). The best restaurants for ladies and gentlemen are Kepx>ler''s, in 4th St. betw^een Plum St. and Central Ave.; the St. JSHcholas, cor. 4th and Race Sts. ; Schmidf^, cor. 7th and Race Sts. ; Becl'-ers\ in Mound St. near 6tli ; and Hunfs, in Yine St. near 4th, The FJmnix Cluh has an elegant building richly furni.'-hed at the cor. of Central Ave. and Court St. The Allemania Club also has a fine building at the cor. of 4th and Walnut Sts., witli billiard-rooms, ballrooms, supper-rooms, etc. The Eureha Clul) has rooms at the cor. of Walnut and 9th Sts. The Queen City Club., organ- ized in 1874, is erecting a handsome building at the cor. of 7th and Elm Sts. Intro- duction by a member secures the privileges of any of these clubs. Railroad Depots. — The Depot of the Cincinnati., Hamilton & Dayton R. R. is a spacious and ornate structure at the cor. of 5th and Hoadley Sts, The Plum St. Depot, cor. Plum St. and Pearl, is a large building, 400 by 64 ft. The Little Miami R. R. Depot is at the cor. of Kilgour and Front Sts. The OMo & Mississippi Depot is at the cor, of W. Front and Mill Sts. The Kentucky Central Depot is in Covington. Modes of Conveyance. — Horse-cars run to all parts of the city and suburbs, and^to Covington and Newport, Ky. (fare, 6c.). Omnibuses run from all the depots and steamboat-landings to the hotels (fare, 50c.). Hacks are in waiting at the depots, steamboat-landings, and at various other points in the city. Their legal rates are : For 1 or 2 persons to any point within the city, $1 ; 3 or more persons, 50c. each ; large baggage, extra ; by the hour, $2 for the first hour and $1,50 for each additional hour. These rates are seldom observed, however, and to avoid imposition a bar gain should be made with the driver before starting. Ferries to Covington from foot of Vine St. and from foot of Central Ave. ; to Newport from foot of Lawrence St. Streets and Drives. — Of the business streets. Pearl St., which contains nearly all the wholesale boot and shoe and dry-goods houses, is noted for its splendid row of lofty, uniform stone-fronts between Vine and Race Sts. Third St., between Main and Vine, contains the banking, brokerage, and insurance offices. Fourth St. is the fashionable promenade and most select retail business St., and is lined with hand i CINCINNATI. 203 some buildings. In PiTce St., in 4th St., from Pike to Broadway, and in Broadway, between 3d and 5tli Sts., are tlie finest residences of the " East End ; " in 4:th St.\ W. of Smitli, in Dayton St., and in Court St., between Freeman and Baymiller Sts., those of the "West End." The portion of Freeman St. lying along the Lin- coln Park, is a favorite ])romenade. Pilce St., from 3d to 5th, along the old Longworth homestead, is known as the "Lovers' Walk." Along Front St., at the foot of ^fain, lies the Public Landing, an open area, paved with bowlders, 1,0('0 ft. long and 425 ft. wide. There are many beautiful drives in the vicinity. One of the most attractive is that from the Brighton House, cor. Central Ave. and Free- man St., to Spring Grove Cemetery, and thence around Clifton and Avondale, re- turning to the city by way of Mount Auburn. This drive affords fine views of the city and surrounding country. Pnblie and Prominent Buildings. — The U. S. Government building, containing the Post-Office and Custom-House, stands at the cor. of 4th and Vine Sts., in the centre of the city. It is of sawed freestone, in the Roman-Corinthian style, with a porch in 4th St., supported by 6 columns. A new government building for the Custom- House, Post-Oflice, and Court- House, is being erected on the square bounded by Main and Walnut and 5th and Gth Sts. It will be 354 ft. long by 164 deep, 4 stories high, of granite, in the Renaissance style. When finished it will be the finest build- ing in the city. The County Court-Honse is a large and imposing structure of Dayton stone, in the Roman-Corinthian style, in Main St., near Court St. The front has a porch with 6 Corinthian columns. With the County Jail in its rear, it occupies an entire square. The City Buildings occupy the entire square on Plum St., between 8th and 9th. They are large and handsome, and are set oflf by a trim little park, with a fountain in the centre. The Chamber of Commerce is in 4th St., between Main and Walnut. The hall aflfords standing-room for 25,000 people, and is a point of attraction every business-day from 11 a. m. to 1 p. m. The rooms of the Board of Trade are in Pike's elegant building in 4th St., between Vine and Walnut. The Masonic Temple, cor. 8d and Walnut Sts., is an imposing freestone structure in the Byzantine style, 195 by 100 ft., with 2 towers 140 ft. and a spire 180 ft. high. The interior is elaborately ornamented. Visitors admitted at 10 a. m. daily. Odd-Fel- lows'^ Hall is a spacious and handsomely-furnished building, cor. 4tli and Home Sts. Fine blocks of commercial buildings may be found in Pearl, Third, Fourth, Main, Walnut, and Vine Sts. The Exposition Buildings, in Elm St., fronting Washing- ton Park, cover 3^ acres of ground, and have 7 acres' space for exhibiting. The Exposition opens annually during the first week in September, and closes the first vreek in October, and is always largely attended (admission, 25c. ; children, 15c.). Theatres and Places of Amnsement. — Pilce's Opera-House, in 4th St., between Vine and Walnut, is one of the most imposing structures of the kind in the United States. It is of fine sandstone, in the Elizabethan style, and the interior is elabo- rately painted and frescoed. The Grand Opera^House, cor. Vine and Longworth Sts., is the old Mozart Hall, remodeled and fitted up as a regular theatre. It will seat 2,000 persons. Wood's Theatre, cor. Vine and 6th Sts., is devoted to the legiti- mate drama. M Robinson^s Opera-House, cor. 9th and Plum Sts., German opera and drama are given, varied by an occasional concert. The National Theatre (Va- rieties) is in Sycamore St., between od and 4th.' Concerts and lectures are given at HopTcins's Mnsic Hall, cor. 4th and Elm Sts. ; at Melodeon Hall, cor. 4th and Walnut Sts. ; at College Hall, in College Building, in Walnut St., near 4th ; and at Oreemcood Hall, in the Mechanics' Institute, cor. 6th and Vine Sts. The large German halls "over the Rhine " are noticed further on. The Gymnasium, in 4th St., between Race and Vine, is one of the most perfect in the country (open from 8 A. M. to 10 p. M.). The Floating Bath is moored at the foot of Broadway (single bath, 15c.). Libraries, irt-Galleries, etc. — The Public Library building, in Vine St., between 6th and Tth, is one of the finest and largest in the city. It is of stone and brick, in the Romanesque style, is fire-proof, and will afibrd shelf-room for 300,000 vol- umes. The library now contains 72,000 volumes and a well-supplied reading-room (open from 8 a. m. to 10 p. m.). The Young Men'^s Mercantile Library is in the 104 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN' CITIES. second story of the College Buildings, in Walnut St., between 4tli and 5tli, and con- tains 37,000 volumes. The Law Lihrary, in the Court-House, has 7,600 volumes. The Mechanics' Institute Library has 6,500 volumes and a reading-room. The Phil- osophical and Historical Society, in College Building, has 4,500 bound volumes and 12,000 pamphlets and unbound volumes. There is no public art-gallery in Cin- cinnati, but the private collections are numerous and valuable, especially those of Henry Probasco, on Clifton Heights, and Joseph Longworth, on Walnut ^Hills. A^isitors are always politely received. The most notable work of art in 'iKl, m '^W^ .If: C incinnati is the Tyler-Davidson Fonntaiii, in 5th St., between Vine and Walnut. V; It stands on a freestone esplanade, ' j j|t, 400 ft. long and 60 ft. wide. In the ■ 11" centre of a porphyry -rimmed basin 40 ft. in diameter is the quatrefoil Saxon porphyry base supporting rlie bronze- work, whose base is 12 ft. square and 6 ft. high, with in- ^ fant tigures at each corner repre- senting the delights of children in water. Bass-relief tigures around the base represent the various uses (if water to mankind. From the up- ])er part of the bronze base extend 4 great basins, and from the centre rises a column, up whose sides vines ascend and branch at the top in palm- ike frondage. Around this column are groups of statuary ; and on its •>umniit stands a gigantic female fig- ure, with outstretched arms, tlie wa- ter raining down in fine spray from lier fingers. The work was cast in Munich^ and cost nearly $200,000. It plays during warm davs from T>ler-I)cn las,,,, t ountam morning till midnight. Cimrclies. — The finest church edifice in the city is Sto Peter's Cathedral (Roman C^atholic), in Plum St., between 7th and 8th. It is of Dayton limestone, in pure Grecian style, 200 by 80 ft., with a stone spire 224 ft. high, and a portico supported by 10 sandstone columns. The altar, of Carrara marble, was made in Genoa ; and the altar-piece, " St. Peter Delivered,'' by Murillo, is one of the chief glories of art in America. St. Xavier Chnrch (Roman Catholic), in Sycamore St., between 6th and 7th, is a fine specimen of the pointed Gothic style, with a spire 350 ft. high. St. Paul's (Episcopal), in 4th St., between Main and Walnut, is a quaint structure in the N^orman-Gothic style, and has fine music. .SY. JoJinh ^Episcopal), cor. 7th and Plum Sts., is of stone and stuccoed brick, in the Xorman style, notable for its square towers, rough ashlar gable, and deep and lofty Xorman door. St. Paul's (Methodist), cor. 7th and Smith Sts., of blue limestone, in cruciform style, has a fine interior and a spire 200 ft. high. The First Presbyterian, in 4th St., between Main and W'alnut, is noted for its huge tower surmounted by a spire 270 ft. high, terminating in a gilded hand, the finger pointing upward. The Baptist Church., in 9th St., between Vine and Race, is a handsome building with massive clock-tower. The First Congregational., cor. Plum and 8th Sts., is surmounted by a dome and lighted from the roof. Some of the German churches " over the Rhine " are very large, and the music excellent. The Hebrew Synagogue, in Plum St., opposite the Cathedral, is of brick, profusely ornamented with stone, in the Moorish style, and has one of the most brilliant interiors in the city. The Hebrew Temple^ cor. 8th and Mound Sts., is in the Gothic style, with double spires, and the interior is gor geously frescoed. CINCINNATI. 105 Edacatioiial and Charitable Institatious — The Unkersity of Cincinnati., founded and endowed by the late Charles McMicken, has an imposing new building; at the cor. of Hamilton Road and Elm St. Connected with the University are the School of Design and the Law School, both of which are in tlie College Building, in Walnut St., between 4th and oth. St. Xavier's College (. Jesuit), cor. Sycamore and 7th Sts., is a splendid building in the Romanesque style, of brick, profusely ornamented with stone. The college possesses a library of 12,000 volumes, valuable chemical and philosophical apparatus, a museum, and a large mineralogical and geological collection. The Wesley an Female College is a prosperous institution, with a spa- cious and handsome building in Wesley Ave., between Court and Clark Sts. The Seminary of Mount St. Mary's is a famous Roman Catholic college, beautifully situated on Western Hills, which command extensive views. Lane Tlieological Seminary (Presbyterian) is situated on E. Walnut Hills, and possesses a library of 12,000 volumes. The Medical College of Ohio is one of the most famous in the West, and has a very fine building in 6th St., between Vine and Race. The Mi- ami Medical College, in 12th St., near the Hospital, is another famous institution. The Chickering Classical and Scientific Institute, in George St, between Smith and John, is the largest private school for boys in the West. The Hughes High- School, in 5th St.. at the head of Mound, is an imposing edifice in the Gothic style, with octagon towers at the corners. The Woodward High-School is an elegant building in Franklin St., between Sycamore and Broadway. The Mechanics- Insti- tute is a commodious building, cor. 6th and Vine Sts. In 12th St., between Central Ave. and Plum St., occupying a square of 4 acres, stands the Cincinnati Hospital, said to be the largest and best-appointed institution of its kind in the country. It consists of eight distinct buildings arranged en echelon round a central court, and connected by corridors. The central building, through which is the main entrance, is surmounted by a dome and spire 110 ft. high. The Good Samaritan Hospital is a fine, large, red-brick building, situated on a grassy hill at the cpr. of 6tli and Locke Sts. .SY. Mary's Hospital, in Betts St., near Free- man, is also a fine and spacious building. The Long>iew Asylnm for the Insane, at Car- thage, 10 m. N. of the city, is of brick, in the Italian ?tyle, 612 ft. long and 3 and 4 stories high. Its grounds are laid out in beautiful lawns, walks, and parks, with greenhouses. There are no bars to the windows, and everything prison-like is avoided. The House of Befuge is situated in Mill Creek Valley, 1 m. N. of the city limits. The buildings are of blue limestone trimmed with white Dayton stone, and are surrounded with 6 acres of ground. The City Worhhonse is near the House of Refuge. The main building is 510 ft. long, and is one of the most imposing edifices about the city. The Cincinnati Orpjhan Asylum is a spacious brick edifice at Mount Auburn, comprising ample grounds which command exten- sive views. There are numerous other charitable institutions which we have not space to mention. Parks, Public Squares, and Cemeteries. — The chief public park is Eden Park, situated on a hill in the eastern district, and commanding magnificent views of the city, the valley of the Ohio, and the surrounding country. It contains 216 acres, beautifully laid out and adorned ; and in it are the two new city reservoirs, which look like natural lakes. Burnett Woods, on a hill N. of the city, contains 170 acres, nearly all forest, Lincoln Park, in Freeman St., between Betts and Hopkins, contains only 18 acres, but it is admirably adorned and finely shaded. Washington Park, one of the oldest pleasure-grounds in the city, formerly a cemeterv, is in 12th St., between Race St. and the Miami Canal. It comprises 10 acres. Hopkins's Park is a small lawn with shrubbery on Mount Auburn, N". of the city. Spring Grove Ceme- tery, one of the most beautiful in the West, lies 3 m. N. W. of the city, in the valley of Mill Creek, and is approached by an attractive avenue 100 ft. wide. It contains 600 acres, well wooded and picturesquely laid out, and many fine monuments. The entrance-buildings are in the Norman -Gothic style, and cost $50,000. The chief attractions are the Dexter mausoleum, representing a Gothic chapel, and a bronze statue of a soldier, cast m Munich, erected in 1864 to the memory of the Ohio vol- unteers who died during the war. 106 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. Miscellaneous Places of Interest. — More than a third of the residents of Cincinnati are Germans or of German parentage. They occupy the large section of the city N". of the Miami Canal, which they have named " the Rhine." The visitor finds himself in an entirely different country " over tJie RMne^^^ for he hears no language but German, and all the signs and placards are in German. The business, dwellings, theatres, halls, churches, and especially the beer-gardens, all remind the European tourist of Germany. Strangers should visit the Great Arbeiter and Turner Halls, in Walnut St., Wielert's saloon and garden, in Vine St., and some one of the vast beer-cellars, which can be found almost anywhere " over the Rhine." The Snspension- Bridge over the Ohio, connecting the city with Covington, Ky., is the pride of Cin- cinnati. From tower to tower it is 1,057 ft. long ; the entire length is 2,252 ft., and its height above the water 100 ft. There is another handsome suspension-bridge over the Licking River, connecting the cities of Covington and Newport. By tak- ing the horse-cars at Front St., in an hour's ride one may cross both these bridges, and return to the starting-point, having been in two States and three cities, and having crossed two navigable rivers. A handsome railroad-bridge is thrown across the Ohio, just above the Suspension-Bridge. The Water - Worhs^ in E. Front St., near the Little Miami Depot, are of great magnitude, and well worth a visit. There are 4 pumping-engines with a capacity of nearly 30,000,000 gallons a day. LongworWs Suppension-Bridge. Wine- Cellar^ at the E. end of 0th St., is one of the attractions of the city ; it is vast in dimensions, and contains immense quantities of wine. A visit to one of the nu- merous PorTi-'packing Houses will repay the tourist ; and no one should miss the views of the city from Priee\s Hill (take omnibus from Post-Office), and from Loohout House, Mount Auburn (reached by horse-cars from cor. of Main and 5th Sts.). CINCINNATI TO LOUISVILLE. The journey from Cincinnati to Louisville may be made via the Louismlle & Cincinnati Short- Line R. R. (110 m. long), which runs through a fertile and pleas- antly-undulating country, but offers no strikingly picturesque or noteworthy features. By far the pleasantest way, however, in summer, is to take a steamer down the Ohio, of which there are two or three daily. The distance is 132 m., and while the scenery is not so impressive as that on the upper portions of the river, it is both varied and attractive. The view from the steamer on leaving Cincinnati is remark- ably fine. On the one hand is the densely-populated city, its rows of massive build- ings rising tier above tier toward the hill-toi)S, which, crowned with villas and vine- yards, form a semicircular background. On the opposite bank rise the beautiful Kentucky hills, their summits still crowned by the earthworks raised during the days of Cincinnati's threatened danger in the civil war; while at their feet nestle the twin cities of Covington and Newport. There are few towns of importance on the Ohio between Cincinnati and Louisville, and they are separated by long stretches of virgin woodland and plain. North Bend {1^ m.) was the residence of William Henry Harrison, President of the United States, and his tomb, a modest brick LOUISVILLE. 107 structure upon a beautiful knoll, is visible for several miles, both up and down the river. The Great Miami River (21 m.) is the boundary between Ohio and Indiana. Laicrencehnrg (23 m.) and Aurora (27 m.) are flourishing towns in Indiana, which •do a large shipping business. Big-Bone LicTc (46 in.) is in Boone County, Ky., and ■derives its name from the fact that bones of the mastodon and the arctic elephant were formerly found scattered all over the surface of the ground in the neighbor- hood. Carrollton (75 m.) stands at the mouth of the Kentucky River, a navigable stream about 200 m, long, noted for its wild and picturesque scenery. Madison (87 m.) is one of the principal cities in Indiana, is beautifully situated and well built, and makes a handsome show from the river. The approach to Louisville is fine, aifording a really imposing view of the city, and of Jeflersonville on the opposite bank. The river is here about 1 m. wide, and is crossed by one of the finest bridges in the United States, giving unbroken connection between the railway systems of the Northern and Southern States, LOUISVILLE. LOUISVILLE, the chief city of Kentucky, and one of the most important in the country, is situated at the Falls of the Ohio, where Bear-Grass Creek enters that river. Its site is one of peculiar excellence. The hills which line the river through the greater part of its course recede just above the city, and do not ap- proach it again for more than 20 m., leaving an almost level plain about 6 m. w^ide, and elevated about 70 ft. above low- water mark. The Falls, which are quite pict- uresque, may be seen from the town. In high stages of the water they disappear almost entirely, and steamboats pass over them ; but when the water is low, the whole width of the river has the appearance of a great many broken cascades of foam, making their way over the rapids. To obviate the obstruction to navigation caused by the falls, a canal, 2i- m. long, has been cut around them, to a place called Shippingport. It was a work of vast labor, being for the greater part of its course €ut through the solid rock, and cost nearly $1,000,000. The city extends about 3 m. along the river and about 4 m. inland, embracing an area of 13 sq. m. It is regu- larly laid out, with wide, well-paved streets, and large squares, which are bisected each way by paved alleys, 20 ft. wide. The beauty of the residences is a notable feature of the city ; most of them are set back from the street, leaving lawns in front, which are planted with flowers and shrubbery, and the streets are lined with shade- trees. The business portion is compactly built, and contains many fine edifices. Main, Market, Jefferson, and Green, are the principal streets in this section. The first settlement of Louisville was made by 13 families, who accompanied Colonel George Rogers Clarke on his expedition down the Ohio in 1778. The situa- tion was so exposed, to Indian attacks that the settlers first established themselves on Corn Island, an island at the head of the falls, near the Kentucky shore, which has since disappeared. On the reception of the news of the capture of Vincennes by Colonel Clarke's forces, the colony removed to the mainland and built a station. The town was established in 1780, and called Louisville, in honor of Louis XYI. of France, whose troops w^ere then aiding the Americans in their struggle for inde- pendence. It was incorporated as a city in 1828, when its population was about 10,000. In 1850 the population had increased to 43,194; in 1860 to 68,033 ; and in 1870 to 100,753. The trade of Louisville is immense, amounting in 1875 to upward of $250,000,000. It is one of the largest leaf-tobacco markets in the world, the sales of this one ai-ticle amounting to over $5,000,000 annually. The trade in pro- visions aggregates from $11,000,000 to $15,000,000 annually ; and the city is rapidly becoming one of the most important markets for live-stock in the country. Pork- packing is extensively carried on, and the sugar-curing of hams is a special feature of the business. The annual product of iron foots up $5,000,000. Louisville is the great distributing market for the fine whiskeys made by the Kentucky distilleries. The manufacture of beer has also become a very important interest. Leather, ce- naent, agricultural implements, furniture, and iron pipes for water and gas mains, iire the other leading manufactures. 108 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. Hotels. — The Gait House ($4.50 a clay), a massive stone structure in the English style, has long been celebrated as one of the best hotels in the United States. The Louisville Hotel ($4: a day), in Main St., is a commodious and well-kept house. The National and United States Hotels are centrally located. There are several second and third rate houses charging from $2 to $3 a day. Depots, Ferries, and Modes of Conveyanee. — The depot of the Louisville &, Cincinnati Short-Line B. R. is a spacious structure in Jeiferson St., between Brooks and Floyd.. That of the Louisville & Nashville R. R. is at the corner of Broadway and 10th St. Of Ferries there are two to Jeffersonville, one from foot of First St. and the other from foot of Clay St ; and one to New Albany from foot of Gravier St., at W. end of the city. The horse-car system is excellent, and affords easy access to all parts of the city (fare 6c.). Carriages are in waiting at the depots and steamboat-landings and in the vicinity of the hotels. Their charges are regulated by law, and are asi follows: Per course within the city, 1 person 75 cts. ; 2 persons $1; per hour, $1.50 for,the first hour, and $1 for each additional hour. Pnblic and Prominent Buildings. — The public buildings of Louisville are not fine architecturally, but are of a solid and substantial character. The Court-House, in Jefferson St., between 5th and 6th, is a large granite structure, with Doric portico and columns, and cost over $1,000,000. The City-Hall is the most ambitious edifice in the city, and is m u c h admired . It is of stone, in the Composite style, with a square clock- tower at one cor- n e r , and cost $500,000. The Council - room is very fine. The Cus tom-House^ which also con- tains the Post- Office, is a plain but substantial building, at the corner of Greene and 3d Sts. The Masonic Temple^ t orner 4th and (Treene Sts., is a handsome struct- ure, with tasteful interior decora- tions. The Li - (lustrial Exposi- tion Building, h « cated 3 m. E. of the city, is spa- cious and graceful in design, and in summer, when the Exhibition is in progress, presents an attractive and characteristic spectacle. The new building of the Courier-Journal^ cor. 4th and Greene Sts., is by far the handsomest in the city, and is one of the most completely appointed newspaper offices in America. Theatres and Places of Anmsement. — The old Louisville Theatre, one of the "institu- tions " of the city, is at the S. E. corner of 4th and Greene Sts. Wood's Theatre, also a popular place of resort, is at the corner of Jefterson and 4th Sts. Temperance Hall, in Market St., is used for concerts, lectures, fairs, etc. LiederJcranz HalU City-Hall. LOUISVILLE. X09 for musical entertainments, is a new and elegant building. Elm-Tree Garden is a popular suburban place of resort at tbe W. end, on the river at the foot of Bridge St. Churches. — There are 95 churches in Louisville, of which the most noteworthy are the Cathedral (Roman Catholic), in Market St., cor. of 5th, a large and ornate structure, with lofty clock-tower and spire; St. PauVs (Episcopal), at the intersec- tion of Walnut and 6th Sts. ; and the First Preshyterian Church., opposite. The First Bajytist Church is also an imposing edifice. Libraries, Edncational and Cliaritable Institntions, etc. — The new PuJdic Library at present occupies a small building, but as soon as the drawings for the lottery-scheme, authorized by the State for its benetit, are completed, a new and handsome structure is to be erected for it. The library numbers 30,000 volumes, and connected with it is a museum and natural-history department, with 100,000 specimens. Louisville being the centre of one of the finest fossiliferous regions in the world, there are numerous private collections, containing many excellent specimens elsewhere rare. The library of the Historical Society contains many rare and valuable works re- lating to the settlement and early history of Kentucky. The Louisville Library Association has a library of 6,000 volumes, and a well-supplied reading-room. The Louisville University Medical College is a flourishing institution, and has one of the finest buildings in the city, at the co.rner of 0th and Chestnut Sts. The Louisville Medical College is another prosperous institution of learning, located in Green St., at the corner of 5th. The two High- Schools (male and female) are large and handsome brick structures. The Colored Normal School^ dedicated in 1873, is probably the finest public-scliool edifice designed for the instruction of negroes in the country. The State Blind Asylum, adjoining the Medical College in Chestnut St., is a massive and imposing structure, one of the finest of its kind in the Southwest. The Alms- house is a large building in the midst of ample grounds near the W. limits of the city (reached by Park St.). The United States Marine Hospital is a plain but spacious edifice in i'reston St., between Madison and Chestnut. Other important charitable institutions are the House of Befuge for Boys, the House of Befuge for Girls., the City Hospital., the Eruptive Hospntal, and the St. Vincent Orphan AsyUim (Ro- man Catholic), in Jefferson St., near Wenzell. Snbnrbs. — Strangers should visit Cave Hill Cemetery., if for nothing else, to see the monument of George D. Prentice, the poet, journalist, and politician, who lies there beside his son, Courtland Prentice, who was killed during the war while fight- ing on the Confederate side. The monument consists of a Grecian canopy, of mar- ble, resting on four columns, with an urn in the centre, and on the top a lyre with a broken string. The cemetery is situated just E. of the city limits, and contains other noteworthy monuments. Portland is a pretty village on the river at the foot of the falls, 3 m. below Louisville. Silver Creel\ 4 m. below the city, on the Indi- ana side, is a beautiful rocky stream, and a favorite fishing and picnic place for the citizens. It is reached by ferry from Portland. Harrod-s CreeJc, 8 m. up the Ohio, affords a pleasant excursion. The Lexington and Bardstoicn turnpikes afford enjoy- able drives through a ])icturesque and well-cultivated country. The road along the Viaduct-Bridge at Louisville, borders of Bear Grass Creek, in the direction of Lexington, is especially attractive. The fine forest vegetation, the park -like groves, the hemp-fields, and the blue-grass pastures, all help to beguile the eye in the Louisville drives and rambles. Jefferson- ville, a flourishing town on the Indiana shore, opposite Louisville, and connected 110 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. with it by ferry and bridge, is situated on an elevation from which a fine view of Louisville may be obtained. The bridge across the Ohio at this point is 5,219 ft. long, divided into 25 spans, supported by 24 stone piers, and cost $2,016,819. New Albany, opposite the W. end of Louisville, is a finely-situated and handsomely-built city of nearly 25,000 inhabitants, with wide and delightfully-shaded streets, fine churches and public buildings, and elegant private residences. " From the hills back of N"ew Albany," says Mr. Edward King, " one may look down on the huge extent of Louisville, half-hidden beneath the foliage which surrounds so many of its houses ; can note the steamers slowly winding about the bends in the Ohio, or carefully working their way up to the broad levees ; can see the trains crawling like serpents over the high suspended bridge, and the church spires and towers gleam- ing under the mellow sunlight." CHICAGO TO ST. LOUIS. {Via Chicago & Alton R. R. Distance, 282 m. Time, 11 hrs.) Feom Chicago (described on p. 89) this road runs S. W. through the rich prairie- lands of Central Illinois, which roll off in gentle undulations as far as the eye can reach on either hand. The villages along the line are prosperous little places, but possess no general interest. The scenery is monotonous, and, since the country has become thickly settled, has lost the distinctive prairie character which is now only seen to perfection in the W. part of Iowa, and on the plains beyond the Missouri. Joliet (37 m.) is a prosperous and handsomely-built town on the Des Moines River, the site of the State Penitentiary, which is one of the finest in the United States, and of extensive quarries of a gray limestone, much used tor building-purposes throughout the Northwest. Bloomington (126 m.) is one of the principal cities of the State, an important railway centre, and the seat of large shipping and manu- facturing interests. The city contains about 15,000 inhabitants, and some fine clmrches, public buildings, etc. Springfield (185 m.), the capital of the State, is a large and handsome city oti the edge of a beautiful prairie. It is regularly laid out, the streets are broad, and the houses well built. The new State Capitol, which occupies a square near the centre of the city, is considered a model of architectural beauty ; and the Custom-House, Court-House, and State Arsenal, are fine buildings. In Ridge Cemetery, 2 m. N. of the city, stands the noble monument erected by the Lincoln Monument Association to the memory of President Lincoln. Alton (257 m.) stands upon a high limestone-bluff, overlooking the Mississippi River. It is a flourishing city of 10,000 inhabitants, and contains, among other handsome build- ings, a large Roman Catholic cathedral. East St. Louis (281 m.) is on the river opposite St. Louis, and in entering the city the train crosses the magnificent bridge, which will be described farther on, and passes through a tunnel 4,194 ft. long. ST. LOUIS. (Besides the fores^oins: route, St. Louis may be reached from Cincinnati via the Ohio & Mississippi R. R. [340 m.] ; or by steamer on the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers. The latter is a pleasant route in summer. St. Louis is reached from Louisville via Louisville Branch of the preceding road [394 m.] ; or by steamer down tlie Ohio to Cairo, and thence by St. Louis & Cairo R. R. ; or by steam- er all the way on Ohio and Mississippi Rivers. Prom New York there are two " through routes '' to St. Louis. The first is via '' Pan-handle Route " [Pennsylvania Central and connecting rail- ways], which has already been described as far as Piqua, Ohio [see p. 8S] ; total distance, 1,064 m. ; time, 42 hrs. ; fare, $2'7. The second is via Erie and Lake Shore Railways to Cleveland [alrearly de- scribed on p. 83], and thence via Cleveland, Columbus & Indianapolis R. R. and Indianapolis & St Louis R. R. Total distance, 1,173 m. ; time, about 46 hrs. ; fare, $27. From Baltimore, via Biltimore & Ohio, Marietta & Cincinnati, and Ohio & Mississippi Railvjays : distance, 973 m. ; time, 44 hrs.; fare, $23.) g ST. LOUIS is situated geographically almost in the centre of the great valley of the Mississippi, or basin of the continent, on the W. bank of the Mississippi Riv- er, 20 m. below the entrance of the Missouri, about 175 m. above the mouth of the Ohio, and 1,170 m. above ^ew Orleans, in lat. 38° 37' K and Ion. 90° 15' W. The city is perched high above the surftioe of the river. It is built on three terraces, ST. LOUIS. Ill the first rising: gently from the river-bank for about 1 ni. to iTth St., where the ele- vation is 150 ft, above the stream. The ground then gently declines, rises in a sec- ond terrace to 25th St., again falls, and subsequently rises in a third terrace to a height of 200 ft. at Cote Brillante or Wilson's Hill, 4 m. W. of the river. The sur- face here spreads out into a broad and beautiful plain. The corporate limits ex- tend 11 m. along the river and about 3 m. back from it, embracing an area of nearly 21 sq. m. The densely-built portion is comprised in a district of about 6 m. along the river and 2 ra. in width. The city is, for the most part, regularly laid out, the streets near the river running parallel with its curve, while farther back they are generally at right angles with those running W. from the river-bank. It is remark- ably well built, stone and brick being the chief materials used, and the architecture being more substantial than showy. In 1762 a grant was made by the Governor-General of Louisiana, then a French province, to Pierre Liguest Laclede and his partners, comprising the " Louisiana Fur Company," to establish trading-posts on the Mississippi ; and on February 15, 1764, the principal one was established where the city now stands, and named St. Louis. In 1803 all the territory then known as Louisiana was ceded to the L^nited States. In 1812 that portion lying iST. of the 83d degree of latitude was organized as Missouri Territory. In 1822 St. Louis was incorporated as a city. The first census was taken in 1764, and the population was then 120. In 1811 it was only 1,400 ; in 1850 it had increased to 74,439 ; in 1860 to 160,773 ; and in 1870 to 310,- 864. In 1875 the local authorities estimated it at 490,000, which would make St. Louis the third city in the United States in population. As the natural commercial entrepot of the vast Mississippi Valley, the commerce of St. Louis is immense ; the chief articles of receipt and shipment being breadstufFs, live-stock, provisions, cot- ton, lead (from the Missouri mines), hay, salt, wool, hides and pelts, lumber, to- bacco, and groceries. There are, including those in East St. Louis, 6 grain elevat- ors and w^arehouses, 5 establishments for storing and compressing cotton, and 2 stock-yards. In 1874 the receipts of grain amounted to 30,673,504 bushels, and the shipments to 24,417,411 bushels. St. Louis is the first city of the Union in the manufacture of flour. There were 24 mills in operation in 1874, w^hich produced 1,573,202 barrels. The number of hogs packed during the season of 1873-'74 was 463,793. Vast as are its commercial interests, however, the prosperity of the city is chiefly due to its manufactures, in which it is surpassed only by Xew York and Philadelphia. The number of establishments in the county (mostly within the city limits) in 1870 was 4,579, employing 40,856 hands, and turning out products valued, in 1874, at nearly $240,000,000." Hotels, Restaurants, and Clubs. — Tiie Southern Hotel ($4.50 a day), which occupies the square bounded by Walnut and Elm and 4th and 5th Sts., is the largest and finest in the Mississippi Valley. It is built of Athens stone, closely resembling mar- ble, in the Anglo-Italian style, and is six stories high. The Planters' Hotel is a very large and fine hotel, occupying the entire block in 4th St. between Pine and Chestnut. The Lindell House is a new, elegant, and sumptuously-furnished hotel. Barnum^s Hotel is a large brick building at the cor. of Walnut and 2d Sts., near the river. The Laclede Hotel is a well-kept house centrally located at the cor. of 5th and Chestnut Sts. Other good houses, on a smaller scale, are the Everett House^ St. Nicholas, Olive St. Hotel, and Broadway Hotel. The Grand Central in Pine St., between 4th and 5th, is on the European plan (rooms $1 a day). The most popular restaurant in the city for ladies and gentlemen is French'^s, at the cor. of 5th and Pine Sts., or No. 201 N. 5th St. Porcher's, 900 Olive St., is famous for its dinners and suppers and for the excellence of its wines. There is an excellent restaurant in connection with the Southern Hotel, N'o. 107 S. 4th St. Other good restaurants are Sincler & Beer'^s, No. 910 Olive St.; Garne''s, cor. 9th and Olive Sts.; Cqferetta, No. 101 N. 12th St.; La7non Pezotte, No. 200 N. 5th St. ; Nicholas Cantine, No. 408 Washington Ave. ; and the Hotel- Garni Restaurant, cor. 4th and Elm Sts. The cookery and service of many of these restaurants are in genuine French style. The Germania Club has a fine building at the cor. of 8th and Gratiot Sts., with 112 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. tirst-ckiss restaurant, billiard-rooms and rooms for other games, and a spacious ball- room. The University Club lias a large and elegantly-furnished building. The privileges of either of these may be obtained on introduction by a member. There are other club-houses of less note. ^ „ ^^ , -r. t. . Railroad Depots.— The depot of the St. Louis, Kansas City & iSorthern R. R. is at the foot of Biddle St., 12 blocks N". of Market St. The depot of the Missouri Pa- cific of the Atlantic & Pacific, and of the Kansas & Texas Railroads, is at the cor. 'of Poplar and 7th Sts., 6 blocks S. of Market St. The depot of the Iron Mountain R. R. is at the foot of Plum St., 7 blocks below Market. All roads en- tering the city from the X. and E., over the bridge, use the depot at 11th and Poplar Sts. Near here a new Union Depot on an immense scale is being con- structed. -, . . -,. . -, -1 Modes of Conveyance. — Horse-cars traverse the city m every direction and render all parts easily accessible (fare 7c. ; 5 tickets for 25c.). The cars on 4th and 5th Sts. run nearly the entire length of the city from N. to S. ; those on Market, Pine, Olive, Locust,"^ Washington Ave. and Franklin Ave., run E. and W. Carriages are in waiting at the depots and steamboat-landings, and at stands in different parts of the city. The rates established by law are: For conveying 1 or more persons a distance of 1 m. or less, $1 ; more than 1 m. and less than 2 m., $1.50, and 50c. for each additional mile. By the hour, $2 for the first hour, and $1.50 for each addi- tional hour. In case of dis- agreement as to distance or fare, call a policeman, or complain at the City Hall. Ferries to East St. Louis from foot of Spruce St. and from foot of Cary St. Streets and Drives.— From the Levee, or river-front, the -treets running N". and S. are numbered consecutively, be- ginning with Main or 1st St., 2d St., 3d St., etc. The notable exceptions to this are Carondelet Ave., which is a continuation of 4th and 5th Sts. southward ; Broad- way, a continuation of the same Sts. northward ; and -lelferson Ave., correspond- ing in part with 29th St. Streets running E. and W. are named arbitrarily or from some historical asso- ciation. The houses are numbered on the "Philadel- phia system " {see Philadel- phia), all streets running parallel to the river being I numbered N". and S. from Market St. ; while on all streets running E. and W. the numbering begins at the Levx^e. Front St.^ which is 100 ft. wide, extends along the levee, and is built up Court-IIouse. with massive stone warehouses. This street, with Main and Second, is the location of the principal wholesale trade. Fourth St. is the fashionable promenade, and ST. LOUIS. 113 oontjiins the leading' retail stores. Grand Are. is 12 m. long, running parallel with the river on the W, boundary of the city. Washington Ace. is one of the widest and handsomest in the cit}'. The finest residences are on Lncas Place, in Pine., Olwe., and Locust Sts., m Washington Ave. W. of 27th St., and in Chouteau Ave. The favorite drives are through the parks and boulevards, to be described further on. Pnblic and Proinineiit Bnildings. — The finest pubHc building in the city, and one of the finest of its kind in the United States, is the Court^Honse, occupying the square bounded by 4th, 5th, Chestnut, and Market Sts. It is built of Genevieve limestone, in the form of a Greek cross, with a lofty iron dome surmounting its centre, and cost $1,200,000. The fronts are adorned with beautiful porticoes, and from the cupola of the dome (which is accessible to all) there is a fine view of the city and its surroundings. The City-HaU., cor. Market and 10th St«., is a plain brick struct- ure occupying half a square. The Foiir Conrts is a spacious and elegant limestone building, in Clark Ave. between 11th and 12th Sts., recently finished at a cost of $1,000,000. In the rear is an iron jail, semicircular in form, and so constructed that all the cells are under the observation of a single watchman at once. (Strangers admitted on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, from 8 to 9 a. m., and 3 to 4 p. m.) The Custom- House, which also contains the Post- Office., is a large and substantial edifice of Missouri marble, at the cor. of 3d and Olive Sts. A new Custom-House and Post-Office is in course of construction at the cor. of Olive and 8th Sts. It will occupy an entire block, will be of Maine granite with rose-colored granite trim- mings, will be three stories high, with a French roof and Louvre dome, and is esti- mated to cost $5,000,000. The U. 8. Arsenal, situated in the extrenie S. limits ol the city, immediately on the river, is a beautiful spot (reached by 5th St. cars). The Merchants'' Exchange^ in ^ain St. between Market and Walnut, is the great commercial martjof the citv. The main hall, or ''Exchanae," is a fine room 102 by 81 ft. The ■ sessions of the Exchange are from 11 A. M. to 1 p. M. Strangers are admitted to the floor on in- troduction by a member; the galleries are free to all. A new and magnificent: Exchange is being erected in 3d St. be- tween Pine and Chestnut It is of gra} limestone, an( will cost $1,- 000.000. The Masonic Temple, cor. Market and 7th Sts., it, a very fine edi- The '• Four Courts." fice, with richly-decorated interior. The new St. Lonis Life-insurance Bnilding, cor. 6th and Locust Sts., is the most ornate and showy in the city. It is of rose-colored granite, in theTRenaissance style, four stories high, with a massive cornice on the roof upon which are mythological figures in stone. From the roof (reached by elevator) a fine view is obtained. The Republican Building, cor. 3d and Chestnut, 214 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. is one of the most complete and elegant newspaper offices in the world. The Union Market occupies the square bounded by 5th, 6th, Greene, and Morgan Sts., and is well worth a visit. So is the St. Louis Elevator^ on the Levee at the foot of Ashley St. It has a capacity of 2,000,000 bushels, and is one of the largest in the country. The Levee should also be visited. Theati-es and Places of Amnsemento— The leading theatre is De Bafs Opera-House., in Pine St. between 3d and 4th ; but there is no well-organized theatrical company in the city. The Olympic Theatre, in 5th between Walnut and Elm Sts., has a fine auditorium. The Apollo Gardem k a German theatre at the cor. of 4th and Poplar Sts., where the new and old operas may be heard throughout the season. The sino-ing is usually very good, and between the acts the audience refreshes itself with beer and soda-water. The Varieties Theatre., in Market St. between 5th and 6th, is a favorite resort for gentlemen. There are numerous German beer-gardens, at the more aristocratic of which, such as Uhrirfs and Schneider's, really fine music may be heard. Ladies and gentlemen resort to the gardens just as do the citizens of Berhn and Dresden. Libraries, Art-Galieries, etc. — The Mercantile Library is a large and handsome brick building at the cor. of 5th and Locust Sts. The library and reading-room are in the 2d story, and both are free to strangers (open from 9 a. m. to 10 p. m.). The library numbers 43,000 volumes, and the hall contains paintings, coins, and statuary, among which may be mentioned Miss Hosmer's life-size statues of Beatrice Cenci and (Enone ; a bronze copy of the Venus de Medicis ; marble busts of Thomas H. Benton and Robert Burns ; and a sculptured slab from the ruins of Nineveh. The reading- room is elegantly fitted up and well supplied with newspapers and magazines. The Public-School Library is on the 2d floor of the Polytechnic Building, cor. Chestnut and 7th Sts. It contains 38,000 volumes and a good reading-room, both of which are open to the public (from 10 a. m. to 10 p. m.). St. John's Circulating Library numbers 27,000 volumes, and the Law Lihrary, in the Court-House, 7,100. The Academy of Science, founded in 1856, has a large museum and a library of 3,000 volumes. The Missouri Historical Society, founded in 1865, has a large historical collection. Both the preceding have rooms in the Polytechnic Building (3d floor). Cliurclies. — The most imposing church edifice in the city is Clirist Church (Epis- copal), cor. 13th and Locust Sts. It is of stone, in cathedral-Gothic style, with stained-glass windows and lofty nave. The Cathedral (Roman Cathohc), in Walnut St. between 2d and 3d, is an elegant edifice, with a, front of polished freestone, ornamented by a Doric portico. It is surmounted by a lofty spire in which is a fine chime of bells. The Church of the Messiah (Unitarian), cor. Olive and 9th Sts., is a fine Gothic structure; and the Second Fresbyterian, cor. 17th St. and Lucas Place, is another noble specimen of the Gothic style. St. George's (Episcopal), cor. Locust and 7th Sts., is an elegant building. The First Presbyterian, cor. 14th St. and Lucas Place, is a large and costly structure in the English-Gothic style, with richly- decorated interior, and a peculiarly graceful and elegant spire. The Union Church (Methodist), cor. 11th and Locust Sts., is a good model of an old Lombard church, believed to be the only structure of the kind in the country. The Baptist Church, cor. 6th and Locust Sts., is a brick structure of handsome design. The following are also notably fine buildings : the Congregational Church, in Locust St. between 10th and 11th Sts. ; the Lutlieran Church, cor. 8th and Walnut Sts. ; and the Pres- byterian Churches, cor. 11th and Pine, and 16th and Walnut Sts. The Jewish Temple, cor. 16th and Pine Sts., is one of the finest ecclesiastical structures in the city. Educational and Charitable Institutions. — The St. Louis University (Jesuit), cor. 9th St. and Washington Ave., is the oldest educational institution in St. Louis, having been founded in 1829. It has a valuable museum, very complete philosophical and chemical apparatus, and a library of 17,000 volumes, among which are some rare specimens of early printing. In' 1874-'75 it had 22 instructors and 353 students. Washington Cniversity is a large and substantial building, cor. Pine and 16th Sts. The university was organized in 1853, and is intended to embrace the whole range of university studies, except theological. Connected with it are the Mary Lnstitute, ST. LOUIS. 115 for the education of women ; the Polytechnic School^ which has an elegant huilding at the cor. of Chestnut and 7th Sts. ; and the St. Louis Laic School. In 1874-'75 there were 58 instructors connected with the different departments and 700 stu- dents. The College of the Christian Brothers (Roman CathoHc), cor. 8th and Gra- tiot Sts., is a flourishing institution with about 400 students, and a library of 10,000 volumes. Concordia College (German Lutheran) was established in 1839, and has a library of 4,500 volumes. The public-school system of St. Louis is one of the best in the country, and the school-houses are exceptionally fine. The High School, cor. 15th and Olive Sts., is a beautiful building in the castellated Norman style. The Roman Catholics have about 100 parochial, private, and conventual schools. The Comity Insane Asylnm, on the Arsenal road, 4^ m. from the Court-House, is an immense brick and stone structure, occupying about 40 acres of ground, beauti- fully laid out. On the premises is an artesian well, 3,848 ft. deep. The Asylum is open to visitors from 10 a. m. to 12 m., and from 2 to 5 p. m. The Poor-House and the House of Industry are just beyond, on the Arsenal road, and are spacious brick buildings. The Workhouse and the House of Befuge are 4 m. S. of the Court- House (reached, within \ m., by Carondelet Ave. cars). The City Hospital, cor. Lafayette Ave. and Linn St., is a handsome building, situated in the midst of pleas- ant grounds (reached by 4th St. cars ; open to visitors from 2 to 3 p. m.). The St. Louis Hospital, cor. Spi'uce and 4th Sts., is conducted by the Sisters of Charity, and accommodates 400 patients. The U. S. Marine Hospital is in Carondelet Ave., 3 m. from the Court-House. The Convent of the Good Shej^herd, for the reforma- tion of fallen women, is at the cor. of Chestnut and 7th Sts. The Beaf and Bumh Asylum (Roman Catholic) is at the cor. of 26th St, and Christy Ave, St. Louis is famous for the number of its charitable institutions, of which we have found space to enumerate only a few. Parks, Pleasure-Gronnds, and Cemeteries. — The public squares and parks embrace in the aggregate about 2,000 acres. The most beautiful is Lafayette Park, which em- braces about 30 acres in the S. portion of the city (reached by Chouteau Ave. cars running on 4th St.). It is for pedestrians only, is admirably laid out aijd adorned, and is surrounded by elegant residences. In it are a bronze statue of Senator Benton, by Harriet Hosmer, and a bronze statue of "Washington. Band concerts are given here on Thursday afternoons in summer, Missouri Parh is a pretty little park of 4 acres, at the foot of Lucas Place, the 5th Avenue of St. Louis, In the centre is a handsome fountain. St. Louis Place and Hyde Pari:, in the N, part of the city, are attractive places of resort, the former containing 16 and the latter 12 acres. Washington Square (16 acres) lies on 12th St, and Clarke Ave., and is tastefully improved. Northern Parle (180 acres), on the bluffs in the N. portion, is noted for its fine trees. Forest Parle contains 1,350 acres, and lies 4 m. W. of the Court- House. It is still mostly covered with primitive trees, and the Des Peres River meanders through it, Lindell Boulevard (194 ft, wide) and Forest Park Boulevard (150 ft. wide) extend fi-om it toward the heart of the city. Lindell Pari- (60 acres), on the line of Forest Park Boulevard, is tastefully laid out and filled with -native forest-trees. Tower Grove Park, embracing 277 acres, lies in the S. W. part of the city (reached by Gravois Railway line, from 4th and Pine Sts,). It is beautifully laid out, with green lawns and shrubbery, and offers the pleasantest drives^ of any park in the city. Adjoining tower Grove Park is Shad's Garden, owned by Mr, Henry Shaw, who has opened it to the public, and intends it as a gift to the city. The garden con- tains 109 acres, and is divided into three sections. The Herbaceous and Flower Garden, embracing 10 acres, contains almost every flower that can be grown in this latitude; and there are several greenhouses, in which are thousands of exotic and tropical plants. In the Fruticetum, comprising 6 acres, are fruits of all kinds. The Arborelum is 25 acres in extent, and contains all kinds of ornamental and fruit trees that will grow in this climate. The Labyrinth is an intricate, hedge- bordered pathway, leading to a summer-house in the centre, A brick building near Mr, Shaw's residence contains a musemai and botanical library. On Sundays the garden is open only to strangers, who may procure tickets at the leading hotels. 116 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. The Fair-Grounds of the St. Louis Agricultural and Mechanical Association embrace 85 acres 3 m. N. W. from the Court-House, are handsomely laid out and ornamented, and contain extensive buildings. The Amphitheatre will seat 40,000 persons. *' Fair-week," which is usually the first week in October, is the gala-season m St. Louis, and the stranger will be fortunate if he happens there at that time. The grounds are reached by cars on Franklin Ave. and 4th St. Bellefontaine Cemetery, the most beautiful in the West, is situated m the IS . part of the citv, about 4^ m. from the Court-House (reached by 5th St. cars). ^ It embraces 350 acres is tastefully decorated with trees and shrubbery, and contains some fine monuments. Gaidar y Cemetery lies a short distance N. of Bellefontaine, and is little inferior, either in size or beauty. ^r. . . • ^ ^i. The Bridge and the Water-Works.— The great bridge across the Mississippi, trom the foot of Washington St. to a corresponding point in East St. Louis, is regarded as one of the greatest triumphs of American engineering. It was designed by James B. Eads, and was begun in 1869 and completed in 1874. It consists of three spans resting on four piers. The piers are composed of granite and limestone, and rest on the bed-rock of the river, to which they were sunk through the sand from 90 to 120 ft by the use of wrought-iron caissons and atmospheric pressure. The centre span is 520 ft. and the side ones are each 500 ft. in the clear ; each of them is formed of four ribbed arches, made of cast-steel. The rise of the arches is 60 ft., sufti- cientlv high to permit the passage of steamboats at all stages of the water. The bridge is built in two stories ; the lower one containing a double car-track and the upper one two carriage-ways, two horse-car tracks, and two footways. It passes over a viaduct of five arches (27 ft. span each) into Washington Ave., where the lower roadwav runs into a tunnel 4,800 ft. long, which passes under a large part ot the city, terminating near llth St. The total cost of bridge and tunnel was over Aiclijil St. Louis Bridge. $10,000,000. The city Water -Works are situated at Bissell's Point, on the bank of the river, 3^ m. :N". of the Court-House (reached by 5th St. cars). The buildings are substantial, and the two-pumping-engines, each with a capacity of 17,000,000 gallons a day, are worth seeing. The engine-rooms are open to visitors at all times. CHICAGO TO OMAHA. TuE tourist has the choice of three routes in making the journey from Chicago to Omaha: 1, via the Chicago & Northwestern E. R. (492 m.) ; 2, via Chicago, Roch Island S Pacific R. R. (493 m.) ; 3, via Chicago, Burlington & Quincy R. R. (502 m.). The distance by all is about the same, and the country traversed is not materially difi'erent. Each line traverses, for the larger portion of the way, the great prairie-region of the West, which thirty years ago was almost uninhabited, save by the Indian and the trapper, but now teems with an industrious and thriving OMAHA TO SAN FRANCISCO. II7 population. Many of the villages and cities en route are attractive, and even pict- uresque, but few have anything which would prove interesting to the tourist. The most important places on the Chicago & Northwestern R. R. are Fulton (136 m.), the last station in Illinois, and the point where a splendid iron bridge, 4,100 ft. long, crosses the Mississippi River; Cedar Bapids (219 m.), an important railroad centre in Iowa; and Cou?icil Blujfs {488 m.), on the Missouri River, opi)Osite Omaha. The approaches to Council Bluffs are striking, and the city itself is picturesquely situated at the foot of high and very precipitous bluffs. The princii)al points on the Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific R. R. are Joliet (40 m.), which has already been de- scribed (see p. 110) ; Ottawa (84 m.), a flourishing city of 8,000 inhabitants, situated on both sides of the Illinois River; Moline (179 m.), which possesses the most ex- tensive water-power in the Northwest; Roclc Island City (182 m.), from which several fine bridges span the Mississippi River to the island of Rock Island, an im- portant United States military station, and to Davenjjort^ on the Iowa side of the river, the largest city in Iowa ; Iowa City (287 m.), beautifully situated on the bluffs of the Iowa River; and Des Moines (357 m,), the capital of Iowa, situated at the junction of the I)es Moines and Raccoon Rivers, and containing a fine State- House and other public buildings, and a population of about 15,000. The chief points on the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy route are Aurora (88 m.), a flourishing manufacturing town on the Fox River; Oalesburg (163 m.), noted as the seat of several colleges ; and Bwrlinrjton (207 m.), on the Mississippi River, and, next to Davenport and Dubuque, the largest city in Iowa. Omaha is reached from Council Bluffs by the magnificent iron bridge across the Missouri River, which cost $1,000,- 000, and affords unbroken railway connection from ocean to ocenn. The city is finely situated on an elevated plateau, and contains many handsome buildings. Its growth has beenunprecedentedly ra])id, as it dates from 1857, and in 1875 had 20,000 inhabitants. Fare by either of the above routes, $16, OMAHA TO SAN FRANCISCO. (Fm TJnion'Pacific and CentrallPacific Raihvays. Distance, 1,914 m. Time, Ay. days. Fare $1C0.) '. *Thi8 journey, by reason of its great length and the time which it takes, will be in many respects a new experience to the traveler, no matter how extended his previous journeyings may have been. It is more like a sea- voyage than the ordinary rushing from point to point by rail, and, as on a sea-voyage, you cease to care about time-tables and connections, and make yourself comfortable. Says Mr. Charles Nordhoff, whose " California, for Health, Pleasure, and Residence,"' will prove a useful companion for the journey: "Until you have undertaken this journey, you will never know how great a difference it makes to your comfort whether your train goes at the rate of 40 or at 22 miles an hour. This last is the pace of the iron horse between Omaha and San Francisco; and it is to the fierce and rapid rush of an Eastern lightning-express what a gentle and easy amble is to a rough and jolting trot. Certainly a lightning-express rushing througli from Chicago to San Francisco would not carry any one, except an expressman, a second time. At 40 or 45 miles per hour, the country you pass through is a blur; one hardly sees between the tele- graph-poles ; pleasure and ease are alike out of the question ; reading tires your eyes, writing is impossible, conversation impracticable, except at the auctioneer pitch, and the motion is wearing and tiresome. But, at 22 miles per hour, travel by rail is a different afiair; and having unpacked your books, and unstrapped your wraps, in your Pullman or Central Pacific Palace-car, you may pursue all the seden- tary avocations and amusements of a parlor at home ; and as your housekeeping is done — and admirably done— for you by alert and experienced servants; as you may lie down at full length, or sit up, sleep or wake, at your choice; as your dinner is sure to be a'bundant, very tolerably cooked, and not hurried ; as you are pretty cer- tain to make acquaintances on the car; and as the country through which you ])ass is strange, and abounds in curious and interesting sights, and the air is fresh and exhilarating — you soon fall into the ways of the voyage ; and if you are a tired busi- 9 118 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. ness-man, or a wearied housekeeper, your careless ease will be such a rest as cer- tainly most busy and overworked Americans know how to enjoy." In order to secure the comfort thus described, it will be necessary to engage a berth in the Pullman Palace-cars to Ogden, and in the Silver Palace-cars beyond Ogden. The cost of these is $8 from Omaha to Ogden, and $6 from Ogden to San Francisco, in addition to the cost of the regular ticket ; but no more fruitful outlay could be made. Attached to each train is an " observation-car," consisting of an open platform, from which the scenery can be seen to greater advantage than in the inclosed cars. Good eating-stations are placed at proper intervals, and the train stoi)S long enough for a meal to be eaten with reasonable deliberation. As there are 228 stations on the line, we cannot enumerate even the more im- portant, and it will prove more useful to the traveler, perhaps, to direct his atten- tion in a general way to the characteristic features of the different sections of the route. During the first day out from Omaha, the road traverses vast prairies, which the tourist now sees for the first time in something like their primitive nakedness and solitude. Settlements and farms are still seen, but, unlike those in the more populous States east of the Mississippi, they appear to be swallowed up in the im- mensity of the interminable levels which roll off to the horizon like the sea. On the left is the Platte River, through whose valley, entered at ElMiorn (29 m.), the road runs for nearly 400 m. Nortli Platte (291 m.) is the principal town on this section of the line, and contains a fine hotel, round-house, and machine-shop, belonging to the railway company. Shortly beyond, the rich farming-lands of Nebraska are left behind, and the road enters a vast grazing country, which extends to the base of the Rocky Mountains, and is covered summer and winter with nutritious grasses. Herds of antelope are seen feeding quietly on the verdurous slopes, villages of prairie-dogs break the monotony of the level, and occasionally a glimpse is obtained of buffaloes. Sidney (414 m.) is the largest place between North Platte and Cheyenne, and is quite a prosperous village, with round-house, repair-shops, hotel, and eating-house. Just before reaching Archer (508 m.), the first glimpse is obtained of the Rocky Mountains, whose snow-clad tops are at first mistaken for clouds. Long's Peak, 14,000 ft. high, soon becomes plainly visible, and the Spanish Peaks are in the dim distance ; while away to the N., as far as the eye can reach, the dark line of the Black Hills leans against the horizon. Cheyenne (516 m.) is one of the largest towns on the entire road, though settled only in 1867'. It now has a population of 2,500, is the point of junction with the Denver Pacific Railway, and has an extensive round-house and shops. A few miles beyond Cheyenne, the ascent of the Rocky OMAHA TO SAX FRANCISCO. 119 Mountains is begun, and for 30 m. the road climbs rugged granite hills, winding in and out of interminable snow-sheds. Sherman (549 m.) is the highest railroad sta- tion in the world (8,235 ft.) and aftbrds grand views. Here commences the descent to the Laramie Plains, a vast wilderness which for the next 200 m. the road trav- erses. Xothing flourishes on these alkaline uplands but sage-brush, while jackass- rabbits, and horned toads with genuine tails, are almost the only specimens of ani- mal life to be seen. Creston (737 m.) is the dividing ridge of the continent, from which waters flow each way, E. to the Atlantic, and W. to the Pacific. At Green River Station (845 m.) the train emerges from the desolate plains, and enters a moun- tain-region, which affords some tine views. Utah Territory is entered at Granger (876 m.). Within this region, between Green River and Salt Lake Valley, we pass through five tunnels, aggregating nearly 2,000 ft., and cut through solid rock, which never crumbles, and consequently does not require to be arched with brick. Castle Roch (975 m.) is a station at the head of Echo Canon, and we then enter a region whose grand and beautiful scenery has been often described. Eelio CaTion and ^Ve- ler Canon are two of the most magnificent sights on the whole Pacific route, and the tourist will be fortunate if he passes them by daylight. The road winds through all the devious turns of these canons, while rock-ribbed mountains, bare of foliage, except a stunted pine, and snow-capped, rise to an awful height on either hand. Emerging from these grim battlements of rock, we catch the first view of Salt Lake Valley, and soon reach Ogden (1,032 m.). This is the point of junction between the Union and Central Pacific Railways, and of the Utah Central Railway, which ex- tends to Salt Lake City, 32 m. distant. Leaving Ogden, the road skirts the N. shore of the Great Salt Lake, while the Mormon city lies near the S. end of it. The lake is 126 m, long and 45 m. wide, as quiet and placid amid its mountain-barriers as the water in a basin. Promoyitory Point (1,084 m.) is interesting as the spot where the two companies building the Pacific Railways joined their tracks on May 1(1, 1869. Beyond this the road enters upon an extended plateau, about 60 ra. long and of the same width, known as the Great A7nerican Desert. Its whole surface is covered with a sapless weed 5 or 6 inches high, and never grows any green thing that could sustain animal life. The only living things found upon it are lizards and jackass-rabbits; and the only landscape feature is dry, brown, and bare mountains. At Toano (1,214 m.) the Humboldt Valley, a comparatively fertile region, is entered ; here commences a long descending grade which extends to the Sierra Nevada Moun- tains. Elko (1,307 m.) is the most important station on this portion of the line, and is the shipping-point for the famous White Pine mining district of Nevada. At IW HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. Wadsworth (1,587 m.) the ascent of the Sierra Nevadas is began. The wearying sight of plains covered with alkali and sage-brush is exchanged for picturesque views of mountain-slopes, adorned with branching pine-trees, and diversified with foaming Salt Lake Citv torrents. The ascent soon becomes so steep that two locomotives are required to draw the train. At short intervals there are strong wooden snow-sheds, erected to guard the line against destruction by snow^-shdes. These sheds, which are very much like tunnels, interrupt the views of some of the most romantic scenery on the line. Truclee (1,65(3 m.) is the first important station in California. Excursionists for Donner Lake and Lake Tahoe leave the railroad here. Summit ■Station (1,671 m.) is the highest point on the Central Pacific road (7,042 ft.), and the scenery around the station is indescribably beautiful and impressive. " A grander or more exhilarating ride than that from Summit to Colfax," says Mr. Nordhoff, "you can- not find in the world. The scenery is various, novel, magnificent. You sit in an open car at the end of the train, and the roar of the wand, the rush and vehement impetus of the train, and the whirl around curves, past the edge of deep chasms, among forests of magnificent trees, fill you with excitement, wonder, and delight. . . . The entrance to California is as wonderful and charming as though it were the gate to a veritable fairy-land. All its sights are peculiar and striking: as you pass down from Summit the very color of the soil seems difterent from and richer than that you are accustomed to at home; the farmhouses, with their broad piazzas, speak of a summer climate ; the flowers, brilliant at the roadside, are new to Eastern eyes; and at every turn of the road new surprises aw^ait you." Sacramento (1,775 m.) is the capital of California, and is the second city of the State in size. It is situ- ated at the head of navigation on the Sacramento River, is an important railroad and manufacturing centre,' and contains 24,000 inhabitants. The State Capitol here is one of the finest public buildings in the United States. The journey from Sacramento to San Francisco is very pleasant, but without special interest, being for the most part through the highly-cultivated valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin. StocUoii (1,823 m.) is the third city of California in size, contains 12,000 inhabitants, and is situated at the head of tide-navigation on the San Joaquin River. OaMand (1,910 m.) is a beautiful city of 12,000 inhabitants, SAN FRANCISCO. 121 on the E. shore of San Francisco Bay, ahnost directly opposite San Francisco itself. The train passes through the city to Oakland Point, where the company has built an immense pier 2^ m. into the bay. From this pier (which is well worth notice) 31 ferry-boat conveys the passengers and freight to San Francisco, 3 m. distant. SAN FRANCISCO. SAX FRAiSTCISCO, the chief city of Cahfornin, and commercial metropolis of the Pacific coast, is situated at the N. end of a peninsula which is 80 m. long and 6 m. across at the city, and separates San Francisco Bay from the Pacific Ocean, in lat. 37° 46' K and Ion. 122" 46' W. The city stands on the E. or inner slope of the peninsula and at the base of high hills. In 1846 these hills were steep and cut up by numerous gullies, and the low ground at their base was narrow, save in what is now the S. part of the city, where there was a succession of ridges of loose, bar- ren sand, im- passable for loaded wag- on s . The sand - ridges have been leveled, the gullies and hollows filled up, and the hills cut down ; and where large ships rode at anchor in 1849 there are now paved streets. The greater part of the peninsula is hilly, bare of trees, and un- fit for culti- vation ; and there is but one road lead- state Capitol of California, at bacraiueuto. ing out of the city. The business streets are built up densely, but beyond that the houses are scattered at considerable intervals, and the settled part of the city may be said to cover an area of 9 sq. m. In the N. E. corner of the city is Telegrai)li Hill, 294 ft. high; in the S. E. corner Rincon Hill, 120 ft. high; and on the ^\ . side Prussian Hill, 360 ft. high. The densely-populated quarters are in the amphi- theatre formed by the three hills. The city is regularly laid out, though not on a uniform plan ; the streets are broad and cross each other at right angles. The busiest streets are paved with Belgian blocks or cobble-stones, and most of the residence streets are planked. The history of San Francisco is interesting on account of the rapid growth of the place. The first house was built in 1835, when the village was called Yerba Buena, which in Spanish means " good herb," so named from a medicinal phmt growing in abundance in the vicinity. In 1847 this was changed to San Francisco, and in 1848, the year that gold was first discovered in California by the white settlers, the popu- lation had increased to 1,000. The influx from the East then commenced, and in December, 1850, the population was about 25,000. In 1860 it was 56,802; in 1870 -.22 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. 149 473* and in February, 1875, the number was estimated by local authorities at 23o'oOO.' The city was incorporated in 1850, and the city and county were consoli- dated in 1856. In 1851 and 1856, in consequence of bad municipal government and corrupt administration of tlie criminal laws, the people organized Vigilance Com- mittees and summarily executed several criminals and banished otliers. This rough but wholesome discipline had its effect, and the city is now one of the most orderly in the country. The commerce of San Francisco is very large, the chief articles of export being the precious metals, breadstuff's, wines, and wool; and of import, lum- ber coal coffee, tea, rice, and sugar. In 1874 the number of sea-going vessels that arrived was 4,204, and during the same period $30,000,000 of treasure was ex- ported. The manufactures are important, including woolen and silk mills, and manufactories of watches, carriages, boots, furniture, candles, acids, wire- work, castings of iron and brass, and silver-ware. Hotels, Restaurants, and Clubs. — The Palace Hotel, the largest building of its kind in the world and the most complete in its appointments, is 275 by 350 ft. on the ground, nine stories high, can accommodate 1,200 guests, and cost with land and furniture $3 250,000. The Grand Hotel, cor. Market and Xew Montgomery Sts., is a large and well-kept house ($3 a day). Other first-class hotels are : the Occidental ($3 a dav), in Montgomery St., extending from Bush to Sutter ; tlie Lid- House ($3 a day), in Montgomery St. between Post and Sutter; and the Cosmopolitan (|3 a day), cor. Bush and Sansome Sts. The Russ House ($2.50 a day) is an old-established hotel, cor. Montgomery and Bush Sts. Good accommodations at from $1.75 to $2.50 a day can be obtained at the American Exchange, 319 Sansome St. ; the BrooMyn Hotel 210 Bush St. ; and the International Hotel, 532 Jackson St. There are many cheap lodging-houses where comfortable rooms maybe had at from 25 to 50 cts. per nio-ht; the most frequented of these is the What Cheer, in Sacramento St., formerly the best hotel in the city. Restaurants are a peculiar feature of San Francisco, and no other city in the United States can compare with it in this respect. Restaurants, chop-houses, rotis- series, abound in every quarter. A great many are first class, and so nearly on a par that it is difficult to make a selection. Chop-houses and rotisseries differ from restaurants, in that the cooking-furnaces are arranged on one side of the room, and each person can select the raw food and have it cooked right before his eyes. There are also numerous tahle-d'hotes, where, by payinir from 50 cts to $1, one can sit at the table and call for anything he likes, provided it is on the bill of fare, including wines. ^larthi's, in Commercial St. near Montgomery, is noted for its excellent suppers. The Union Club has an elegant building at the cor. of Montgomery and Cali- fornia Sts. The stone of which it is constructed was quarried and cut in China. The Olympic Cluh has extensive and handsomely-furnished rooms at 35 Sutter St. The San Francisco Verein, 428 Pine St., has a library of 6,000 volumes and a well- supplied reading-room. The Pacific Turner Bund, for the cultivation of gymnastic exercises, has rooms at Turnverein Hall, in O'Farrell St. between Mason and Taylor. Introduction by a member secures the privileges of these clubs. Depots .ind Modes of Conveyance. — The only railroad terminating within the city lim- its is the Southern Pacific. The Central Pacific terminates at Oakland, on the E. side of San Francisco Bay (reached by ferry from foot of Pacific St.) ; and the California, Pacific, and San Francisco & North Pacific lines terminate on San Pablo Bay, N. of the city (reached by ferry). Horse-cars intersect the city in every direction, and render all points easily accessible. There are also omnibuses to different suburban points. Carriages are in waiting at the steamer-landings and at various stands in the city. Ferries to Oakland and San Antonio from foot of Pacific St. ; to Alameda from foot of Davis St. ; to Contra Costa from foot of Vallejo St. ; to San Quentin from foot of Brondway ; and to Saucelito from Meigs's Wharf. Streets and Drives. — The leading thoroughfare and most fashionable promenade is Montgomery St., which is broad and lined with handsome buildings. At its N. end it extends to the top of a hill, which is so precipitous that carriages cannot ascend SAN FRANCISCO. 123 it. A tlight of steps enables pedestrians to mount with comparative ease; and from the top there is a fine view over the city and bay. Kearney St. and JJarl-et St. are also fashionable promenades, and contain some of the principal retail shops. In California St. the principal banks and brokers' and insurance offices are located. The importers and jobbers are in Front^ Sarisome, and Battery Sts. The hand- somest private residences are in Van Ness Ave., Pine St. Hill, and Taylor, Bush, Sutter, Post, Geary, and OTarrell Sts. The " Chinese Quarter "' comprises ])or- tions of Sacramento, Commercial, Dupont, Pacific, and Jackson Sts.— The favorite drive is to the Clijf' House, which is situated on the edp:e of the cliffs on the S. side of the entrance to the Golden Gate (7 m. from the city). A fine, broad, macad- amized road leads to it, which is watered in dusty weather, and is as smooth and well kept as a race-course. The Cliff* House is described further on. The road passes beyond the hotel to a broad, beautiful beach several miles long-, over which at low tide one can drive to the Ocean House at its extreme end, and return to the city by a road behind the Mission hills. Another popular drive is to H%inter\ Point, U m. S. E. from the City Hall. > Public and Prominent Bnildins;^ — A stranger's first impression of San Francisco is that there are no public buildings, thougli the new (Ity Hall, in process of erection Ciiy Hall, yau Francisco. in Yerba Buena Park,» bounded by Market, MacAllister, and Larkin Sts., will be a tine structure, surpassed by few in the United States. The old City Hall, of stuc- coed brick, two stories high, stands in Kearney St., between Washington and Mer- chant (opposite the Plaza). The Custom-House, which also contains the Post-Ortice, is a plain but substantial building at the cor. of Battery and Washington Sts. The C. S. Branch Mint is on the upper floors of a rather shabby old building in Conmiercial St., neir Montgomery, and is well worth a visit (visitors admitted from a. m. to 12 M.). At this establishment is made two-thirds of all the gold and silver coin manufactured in the United States. A new and massive building for the mint is going up at the cor. of Mission and 5th Sts. It will be of stone, in the Doric-Ionic style, and will cost $1,500,000. The U. S. Treasury is located at 428 Montgomery St. (office-hours from 9 a. m. to 3 p. m.). The Hall of Records, cor. Kearney and Washington Sts., occupies the old '' El Dorado," the famous gambling-hell of early San Francisco. The Merchants' Excliange, on the S. side of California St., between Montgomery and Sansome, is one of the most elegant and spacious buildings in the city. The Exchange is a splendid room in the first story, with lofty ceiling, and is well supplied with the leading papers and magazines, home and foreign. In the tower over the building is a fine clock. The most notable commercial buildings, 124 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. besides the hotels, are those of the Banh of California, the Nevada Banh, and the Safe-Deposit Banl\ all in California St. ' Theatres and Places of Amusement.— The California Theatre, in Bush St., near Kear- ney, is one of the finest bnildins^s in the city. It is devoted to legitimate drama and star performances. Tiie Grand Opera-House, in Washington St., near Montgomery, is also a handsome building. The performances are mostly op>era louffe and bur- lesques. The Metropolitan Theatre, in Montgomery St., between Washington and Jackson, is one of the oldest on the coast, and has a large and fine auditorium. The Bella Union Theatre is in Kearney St., near Washington. The Alhamhra Theatre, in Bush St., between Montgomery and Kearney, is devoted to varieties and negro minstrelsy. Woodward's Gardens, in Mission St., between 13th and 14th Sts., is the Barnunrs of San Francisco. It contains a Museum of Curiosities, an Art-Gallery, and a Menagerie ; and the grounds are tastefully laid out. The City Gardens, in Folsom St., between 12th and 13th, are a popular resort. There are two Chinese Theatres, one on the E. side of Dupont St., between Clay and Washington ; the other on the N. side of Jackson St., between Kearney and Dupont. I^o stranger in San Francisco should fail to visit one of these {see " Chinese Quarter "). The Bace-course is near Hunter's Point, 5 m. S. of the City Hall. Libraries, Art-Giilleries, etc. — The building of the Mercantile Library Association, in Bush St., between Montgomery and Sansome, is large and fine, of brick with brown- stone trimmings, 4 stories high. The rooms are spacious, well-arranged, and ele- gantly furnished. The hbrary contains 40,000 volumes, and there are several read- ing-rooms, chess-rooms, and a gallery of pictures and statuary. The Odd-Fellows' Library, in Odd-Fellows' Hall, 325 and 327 Montgomery St., numbers 25,000 vol- umes, and has an excellent reading-room attached. The Mechanics'' Institute Li- brary occupies a substantial building in Post St., between Montgomery and Kear- ney. It contains 30,000 volumes, and has a well-supplied reading-room. The La,w Library, in Montgomery Block, contains over 15,000 volumes. The Society of California Pioneers, in Pioneer Hall (Montgomery St., near Jackson), has a good library and reading-room, together with a collection of many interesting relics of early times. The Academy of Sciences has rooms in the Mechanics' Institute building. €linrches. — The largest and finest church-edifice on the Pacific Coast is St. Pat- rick's (Roman Catholic), in Mission St., between 3d and 4th. It is of brick, 160 by 90 ft., with a spire 240 ft. high. St. Mary's Cathedral (Roman Catholic), cor. Cali- fornia and Dupont Sts., is a noble building in the Gothic style, with a spire 200 ft. high. St. Francis's (R(mian Catholic), in Vallejo St., between Dupont and Stock- ton, is a large brick structure, in the Gothic style, with four towers, each 90 ft. high. St. Joseph's (Roman Catholic), in 10th St., between Folsom and Howard, is in the cruciform Gothic style, with richl3^-decorated interior. Grace Cbnrch (Episco- pal), cor. California and Stockton Sts., is a stately stone building with stained-glass windows. Trinity Church (Episcopal), cor. Post and Powell Sts., has a lofty tower and spire, and a fine interior. The Calvary Bresbyterian, cor. Geary and Powell Sts., is a large and costly edifice, in the Composite style, with 10 small towers rising above the roof. The First Tnitarian (Horatio Stebbins, pastor), in Geary St., between Dupont and Stockton, is one of the finest churches in the city, remarkable for the parity of its architectural design, and the elegance of its interior finish. The First Methodist, in Powell St., between Washington and Jackson, was founded in 1849, and is the oldest of the denomination in the city. The First Bap- tist is in Washington St., between Dupont and Stockton ; the Columbia Square Baptist, in Rass St., between Howard and Folsom ; and the First Congregational, cor. California and Dnpont Sts. The Jewish synagogue of Emanu-El, in Sutter St., between Stockton and Powell, is a large, elegant, and substantial structure, with 2 lofty towers, and richly-decorated interior. That of the Sherith-Israel, cor. Post and Taylor Sts., is an imposing structure ; the lofty ceiling, arched and frescoed in imitation of the sky at night, is much admired. The Chinese Mission House, cor. Stockton and Sacramento Sts., will prove interesting to strangers. Educational and Charitable Institutions. — The most important educational institution SAN FRANCISCO. 125 in or near San Francisco is the Unkersity of California., M*hich has liandsome build- ings at Berkeley, 4 m. N. of Oakland. In the city is an excellent School of Benign, two Medical Colleges, and three Academies. The public schools accommodate 30,- 000 pupils in regular attendance. Among the charitable institutions the principal are the United States Marine Hospital, an extensive building on a commanding emi- nence at the cor. of Mission and 15th Sts. ; the City Hospital, cor. Stockton and Francisco Sts. ; St. Mary's Hospital (Roman Catholic), cor, Bryant and 1st Sts. ; the State Woman's Hospital, 21 Hawthorne St. ; the Almshouse, on the San Miguel Road, in the suburbs; the Protestant Orphan Asylum, in Laguna St., near Haight ; and the Roman Catholic Orphan Asylum, in Market St., near 3d. The Alameda ParTc Asylum for the Insane is situated on the Encinal, Alameda. The fine build- ing of the State Asylum for the Deaf, Dumh, and Blind, near Oakland, was burned in 1875. Parks, Public Squares, and Cemeteries. — The parks of San Francisco are in the fu- ture, though a commencement has been made with the Golden Gate Pai'Jc, S. of the city, w^hich contains 1,043 acres, and is now being beautified. Portsmouth Square, commonly called the Plaza (W. side Kearney St, from Washington to Clay Sts.), is inclosed with a handsome iron railing, is tastefully laid out with gravel-walks, trees, shrubs, and grass-plats, and has a fountain in the centre. There are a number of other public squares in difterent parts of the city, but none of them have been much improved. Across tlie bay at Alameda, Oakland, and Saucelito, are some large and beautiful public gardens. Lone Mountain Cemetery is in many respects un- surpassed. It lies 2|- m. W. of the principal hotels (reached by horse-cars). AYithin the inclosure of the cemetery is a singular mountain, of conical shape, which rises up singly and alone to a considerable height above the surrounding country, which is tolerably level. On its summit is a large wooden cross; and both mountain and cross are very conspicuous, and may be seen from almost any part of the city. There are several fine monuments in the cemetery, that of Senator Broderick and Rals- ton's (modeled after the Pantheon at Rome) being especially noteworthy ; but the great feature is Lone Mountain, with its unrivaled outlook, embracing views of the city, bay, ocean, Mount Diablo, and the Coast Range. There are several other cemeteries in the immediate vicinitv of Lone Mountain, chief among which is Laurel Hill. The " Chinese Quarter." — There are about 20,000 Chinese in San Francisco, and their "quarter" has already been defined as comprising portions of Sacramento, Commercial, Dupont, Pacific, and Jackson Sts. Here they hold undisputed posses- sion of several blocks, and the liouses are crammed from sub-cellar to attic, IS'o stranger in San Francisco, who has leisure, should fail to visit one of the two Chinese Theatres. He will find the entire audience, even the ladies, who have a compartment to themselves, smoking either tobacco or opium, and the performance is carried on amid the clashing of cymbals, the beating of drums and gongs, the blowing of trumpets, and other Idnds of noise. The stage is about 10 ft. high, and covered on all sides with dirty, faded red-and-yellow paper and black Chinese let- ters. Faded gilt stripes are here and there observable; pieces of tin, like sardine- boxes, piled on top of each other, are nailed to the walls ; wings, tails, and heads of birds are liung up with old tin pans, broken chairs, legless tables, dirty coats, hats, and pants, rusty swords, broomsticks burned black for spears, peacock-feathers, red and yellow stripes of muslin, old boots and shoes, wooden animals painted every color but the natural, junks with sails set, armies marching, and bulls fighting. The orchestra sit on the stage and smoke all the time; and the performance does not commence until they have worn themselves out with making noise. Several fel- lows, clad in green, red,* and yellow costumes, with long feathers sticking out from^ the backs of their necks, wings on their shoulders, and large masks in imitation of bulls, horses, and other animals, then begin strutting about and shouting to each other; and that is the play, A visit to the Gamhling-houses and Opium-cellars will repay the curious tourist ; but it had better be made in company with a policeman. The Chinese are probably the most inveterate gamblers in the world, and they all gamble. In a cellar, greasy and dirty and filled with smoke, eighty or a hundred 126 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. will be found sitting around tables betting. Their mode of gambling is sim|)le : some one throws a handful of copper- coins on the table and after putting up stakes they bet whether the number of coins is odd or even ; then they count them and declare the result. Often in a single night they will gamble away several months' earnings. The opium-cellars are fitted up with benches or shelves, on each of which will be found a couple of Chinamen lying on the boards with a wooden box for a pillow. They smoke in pairs : while one smokes and prepares the opium, the other is dozing in a half-drunken sleep. There are three Temjdes^ and at all times the visitor will find them open and any number of joss-sticks smoking in front of the favorite gods. Suburbs. — The point of chief interest in the vicinity of San Francisco is the Clifi' House, a low, rambling building, set on the edge of some clitfs rising sharply from the ocean and facing west. It is 6 m. from the city, and is reached by the Point Lobos Road, a fine, admirably-kept boulevard, on which riders and vehicles of every description are met, especially Saturday afternoon, the half-holiday of business men. The restaurant attached to the house is famous for its excellence, and it is a delight- ful experience to drive down in the early morning, before the summer northers be- gin to blow, and breakfast there. Seal Roch is close by the hotel, and the greatest charm of the place is to lounge on the wide, shady piazza and w^atch the seals bask- ing in the sun or wriggling over the rocks, barking so noisily as to be heard above the roar of the breakers. Northward lies the Golden Gate, the beautiful entrance to San Francisco Bay. Southward is the beach, upon which the waves beat cease- lessly, and beyond, a rocky shore whose outlines melt in the blue distance. In front is the vast Pacific ocean, on whose distant horizon on a clear day the peaks of the Farallone Islands are visible. At Hunter^s Point, 4:h m. S. E. of the City Hall, is a Dry Dock, cut out of the solid rock, and said to be one of the finest in the world. The drive to it is across an arm of the bay, and attbrds varied and pleasant views. The Mission Dolores, the old mission of San Francisco, lies 3|^ m. S. W. of the city (reached b}^ Market St. cars and also by omnibus). It is an adobe building of the old Spanish style, built in 1778. Adjoining it is the cemetery, with its well-worn paths and fjintastic monuments. Alameda, SauceUto, and OaMand, across the Bay (reached by ferry), are beautiful towns with fine public gardens. WASHINGTON TO RICHMOND.— KO T/T^ I, (Fia Baltimore & Potomac R. R. Distance, 113 in. Tim 3, 5 lira. Pare, about ;|5.) The train leaves the depot in Washington at the cor. of 6th and B. Sts., crosses the Long Bridge into Virginia, and runs down parallel with the Potomac to Alex- andria, which is described on p. 50, Here the road leaves the Potomac and runs S. E. across a broken and rather desolate-looking country to Fredericltslmrg (55 m.), a quaint and venerable old town on the S. shore of the Rappahannock River. Fred- ericksburg was founded in 1727, and is notable as the scene of one of the severest battles of the civil war, fought December 13, 1862, in which General Burnside was defeated by General Lee. Many traces of this bloody conflict still remain, and may be seen from the cars, as the train passes directly across the battle-field. In the vicinity are a National and a Confederate cemetery, the latter being adorned with a monument. At Hanover Junction (92 m.) another battle was fought between General Grant and General Lee in May, 1864. The works occupied by the two armies may still be seen. Ashland (99 m.) is a place of recent origin, and a favorite residence of many citizens of Richmond. Near here was the birthplace of Henry Clay, who was often, when a boy, seen riding with a bag to mill, from which he received the name of the '' Mill-boy of the Slashes," a term applied to the neighboring country. Richmond (116 m.) is described on the next page. RICHMOND. 127 WASHINGTON TO RICHMOND.— i?0 ?7TK II. {Via steamer to Aquiti Creek, and thence via Kichmond, Fredericksburg & Potomac R. E. Distance. 130 m. Time, 6 to 7 hrs. Fare, about $5. Passen^rers can use the same ticket on either this or the preceding route.) This is a pleasant way of reaching- Richmond when a couple of hours more or less are of no importance to the traveler. The trip down the Potomac is made by day, and affords good views of the river scenery and the various places of interest on its bank — Alexandria, Arlington, and Mount Vernon. In passing the latter place the bell of the boat is always tolled. Aquia Greek (55 m.) was an impor- tant military depot during the war for the Federal forces operating in the region IST. of Fredericksburg. From Frederichaburg (69 m.) the line is identical with that described in the preceding route. RICHMOND. (Besides the foregoinir methods of reaching Richmond, it may be reached from Baltimore i7a>etfeam- er down Chesapeake Bay to Norfolk ; thence by steamer up James River. Also via steamervfrom Baltimore down Chesapeake Bay and up York River to West Point ; thence by rail [38 m.]~tir Richmond. From New York direct tia " Old Dominion Line " of steamirs [three times a week.]) EICIIMOND, the capital and largest city of Virginia, is situated on the N. bank of the James River, about 100 m. by water from Chesapeake Bay. The city is built on several eminences, the principal of which are Richmond and Shockoe Hills, which are separated by Shockoe Creek, and is surrounded by beautiful scenery, it is regularly laid out and well built ; the streets, which are lighted with gas, cross each other at right angles. It was founded in 1737, was incorporated in 1742, and became the State capital in 1779, at whicli period it was a small village. The city was, in turn, the scene of the conventions of 1788, to ratif\' the Federal Constitu- tion, those of 1829, 1850, and 1861, and other important political gatherings, which largely shaped the destinies of the Commonwealth. In 1861 still greater prominence was given to it as the capital of the Southern Confederacy ; and one of the great aims of the Federal authorities, throughout the war, was to reduce it into their pos- session. The obstinacy with which tlie Confederates defended it was a proof of the great importance which they attached to its retention. To effect this, strong lines of earthworks were drawn around the place, and may still be seen as memorials of the great struggle. When General Lee evacuated Petersburg, April 2, 1865, the troops defending Richmond on the E. were withdrawn, and, to prevent the tobacco- warehouses and public stores from falling into the hands of the Federal forces, the buildings — together with the bridges over James River — were fired. This resu]ted in the destruction of a large part of the business section of the city, extending from the Spottswood Hotel, on Main St., for nearly a mile toward Rockett's, the lower suburb — the nimiber of buildings destroyed having been estimated at 1,000, and the loss at $8,000,000. With the ces.sation of hostilities, Richmond set to work to rebuild her blackened quarters, which she has now almost wholly accomplished, and the city is rapidly recovering its former prosperity. The population in 1870 was 51,038, and had increased in 1874 to 60,705. The commerce is large, the chief articles of export being tobacco and flour. The latter is noted for its excellent qual- ity, and is mostly shipped to Brazil. Great quantities of tobacco are shipped to the North. The manufactures give employment to over 4,000 men, and include iron- works, machine-shops, founderies, sugar-refineries, cigar-factories, coach and wagon factories, furniture, sheetings and shirtings, and stoneware. Five lines of railroad intersect at Richmond, and regular lines of steamers run to Norfolk, Baltimore, Philadelphia, and New York. Hotels, Restaurants, and Clubs. — The leading hotels are the Exchange Hotel and Bal- lard House, facing and connected with each other in Franklin St. below the Capitol ($3 a day). The St. James Hotel ($2.50 a day) is in 12th St., facing the Capitol Square. Ford's Hotel ($2.50 a day) is in Main St. The best restaurants for ladies and gentlemen are Pozziiii's.^ 807 E. Broad St., ZetelW^s, cor. 11th and Bank Sts., and Antonis, 1105 E. Main St. The Richmond Club-House is in Franklin St. In- troduction by a member. 128 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. Modes of Conveyance.— Horse-cars run from end to end of the city through the main thoroughfares (fare 10c. )• Gasper's omnibuses and hacks are in waiting at the . depots and steamboat-landings ; also at stands in the city. Fare from depot or landing to any point in the city, 50c. Hacks by the hour ; $1.50 for the first hour, and $1 for each additional hour. Public and Pi'ominent Buildings. — The most prominent public building of Richmond, and by far the most conspicuous object in the city, or from its approaches, is the State Capitol, standing, in the centre of a park of 8 acres, on the summit of Shockoe Hill. It is a Graeco - Com- posite build- ing, adorned with a portico of Ionic col- u m n s , t li e plan having been fur- nished by Thomas Jef- ferson after that of the Maison carree at Nismes, in France. The view from the portico is ex- tensive and b e au t i ful, taking in the James River, with its wind- ings and numerous islands. In the centre of the building is a square hall sur- mounted by a dome, beneath which stands Houdon's celebrated statue of Washing- ton. The statue is of marble, of the size of life, and represents Washington as clad in the uniform worn by an American general during the Revolution. The left hand rests on a bundle of fasces, on which hang a military cloak and a small sword, and against which leans a plough. The attitude is natural and easy, and the likeness to the great original is said to be strong. On one side of the pedestal is the following inscription : " The General Assembly of the Commonwealth of Vir- ginia have caused this statue to be erected, as a monument of affection and gratitude, to Geoege WashixctTox, who, uniting to the endowments of the Hero the virtues of the Patriot, and exerting both in establishing the Liberties of his Country, has rendered his name dear to his Fellow-Citizens, and given the World an immortal Example of true Glory. Done in the year of Christ One Thousand Seven Hundred and Eighty-eight, and in the year of the Commonwealth the Twelfth." Xear the statue of Washington, in a corner of the hall, stands an antique English store, cov- ered with ornamental chasings and inscriptions, which dates back far beyond the Revolution, and was used to warm the old Virginia House of Burgesses at Williams- burg in colonial times. In a niche in the wall is a marble bust of Lafayette. On the esplanade leading from the Governor's house to the W. gate of the Capitol Square, and near the latter, is Crawford's equestrian Statue of Washington, consisting of a bronze horse and rider, of colossal size, rising from a massive granite pedestal, and surrounded by bronze figures of Patrick Henry, Thomas Jefterson, John Mar- shall, George Mason, Thomas Nelson, and Andrew Lewis. The horse is half thrown upon his haunches, and is thought to be one of the finest bronzes in the world. A life size marble statue of Henry Clay (near the W. corner) completes the decora- tions of the Capitol Square, which is a favorite resort of the citizens and of strangers. Capitul ul liiclmiond. RICHMOND. 129 The City Hall is an elegant structure at the N. W. angle of Capitol Square. The Govenio7''s House is a plain building on the N. E. corner of the square. The Custom-House, which also contains the Post-Office, is a handsome structure of gran- ite, in the Italian style, in Main St., between lOti/ and 11th. The Medical College, in rear of the Monumental Church, is a fine specimen of the Egyptian style of architecture. In the vicinity is the BrocTtenhrov^ih House, which was the re^i dence of Jefferson Davis, Presi- dent of the Southei-n Confedei - acy ; it is now used as a school house. The State Penitentiary is a large whitewashed britk building, in the W. suburbs ot the city. Other prominent ^ buildings are the Lihhy and Castle Thunder Prisons; but these are mere tobacco-ware- houses, of no interest apai t from the associations connect ed with them. Theatres and Places of Amuse- i iiieut. — The old Pichmond The- j atre, in Broad St., built in con- If sequence of the destruction !>} fire of the former theatre, on the site of the Monument.il Church, is a handsome and spa- cious building, with a neat au- ditorium. Other well-conduct- ed places of amusement are the Virginia Hall and the Assembly Haft. Churches. — The churches of Richmond are numerous, and several of them are handsome specimens of architecture. Those with historic associations are St. John's and the Monumental. St. John's (Episcopal) is a plain edifice with a modern spire, on Church Hill, cor. Broad and 24th Sts. It is of ante-Revolutionary origin, and in it was held (in 1775) the Virginia Convention to decide the action of the colony, on which occasion Patrick Henry exclaimed: "The war is inevitable, and let it come! Is life so dear, or peace so sweet, as to be purchased at the price of chains and sla- very? Forbid it. Almighty God ! I know not what course others may take, but, as for me, give me liberty or give me death! " St. John's Church was subsequently, in 1788, the scene of the meeting of the convention to determine whether Virginia would ratify the Federal Constitution. The 3[onunientaI Church (Episcopal), cor. Broad and 13th Sts., is a handsome edifice, with a dome, standing on the spot for- merly occupied by the Richmond Theatre. In 1811, during the performance of a piece called " The Bleeding Nun," the theatre caught fire, and, in the terror and con- fusion of the crowd rushing to the doors, 69 persons, including the Governor of Vir- ginia and some of the most eminent men and beautiful women of the State, were crushed or burned to death. The church was erected as a memorial of the event, the remains of the victims being interred beneath a mural tablet in the vestibule. Of the more modern structures, St. PaiiVs (Episcopal), cor. Grace and 9th Sts,, is the most imposing. In it Jefferson Davis was seated when a messenger brought him the fatal news that Lee was about to evacuate Petersburg. Other important churches are the First Pa^^tist, cor. Broad and 12th Sts. ; the Second Bajjtist, cor. Main and 6th Sts. ; the Trinity Methodist, cor. Broad and 20th Sts. ; the Centenary 'Statue ol Wa'^lunc^toii 130 HAND-BOOK OF AMEKICAN CITIES. Methodist^ cor. Grace and 5th ; the First Presbyterian^ cor. 10th and Capitol Sts. ; St. Peter^s (Roman Catholic), cor. Grace and 8th Sts. ; and St. Patrick's (Roman Catholic), Church Hill and 25th St. The old African Church is a lon^, low build- ing in Broad St., near Monumental Church, famous as a place of poHtical meet- ings before and during the war. Miscellaneous Plat'es of Interest. — There are several cemeteries in Richmond, the principal of Avhich is Hollywood. This is a spot of great natural beauty, in the W. limits of the city, above James River, and embraces an extensive tract, alternately hill and dale, the whole ornamented with venerable trees, shrubs, and flowers. On the hill at tlie S. extremity, a monument marks the resting-place of President Mon- roe. Other persons of note are buried here, among them General J. E. B. Stuart, com- mander of Lee's cavalry, in the soldiers' section are the graves of hundreds of Con- federate dead, from the midst of which rises a monumental pyramid of rough stone. The Falls of James River^ extending for about 6 m. above the city, are exceedingly picturesque, and well worth a visit. Three bridges across the river connect Rich- mond with Spring Hill and Manchester., the latter a pretty village with two fine cotton-mills. The Tredegar Iron - Wo?'ks, situated on the river, above the Armory, are among the largest in the country. The buildings cover 15 acres of ground. The Gallego Flour-Milh are said to be the largest in the world ; they can turn out 1,500 barrels of flour a day. RICHMOND TO CHARLESTON. ( Via '• Atlantic Coast Line." Distance, 567 m. Time, about 25 liours.) Crossing James River on a handsome bridge, the trains on this route soon reach Petersburg (22 m.), a venerable old town on the S. bank of the Appomattox River, famous as the scene of the last great struggles during the late civil war. Since the war, Petersburg has prospered, and the marks of the conflict are slowly disappear- ing; but the fortifications are still distinctly traceable, and the chief battle-fields, etc., are easily found. Weldon (86 m.) is a thriving post-village in JTorth Carolina, at the head of steamboat-navigation on Roanoke River. The country along this portion of the route is flat and uninteresting, and the road traverses a considerable portion of the great pine belt which extends from Virginia to Florida. Goldsboro (164 m.) is a prosperous town of 5,000 inhabitants, near the N"euse River, at the head of navigation. Wilmington (248 m.), the largest city of North Carolina, is in the S. E. extremity of the State, upon the Cape Fear River, 20 m. from the sea. It off'ers few attractions to the traveler in search of the picturesque, though it played a part in the drama of the Revolution, and also of the civil war. Fort Fisher lies below at the mouth of tlie river. Steamsliips ply weekly between Wilmington and New York. From ^yilnli^gton to Columbia, the country is of the same featureless and monotonous character, the principal stations en route being Florence (352 m.) and Sumter (391 m.). From Camden Junction (404 m.) a branch road, 38 m. long, leads to Camden, the scene of two Revolutionary battles. Colniubia (433 m.), the capital of South Carolina, is a beautiful city, situated on the blufis of the Congaree, a few miles below the charming falls of that river. It was famous for its delight- fully-shaded streets, and its wonderful flower-gardens, but the aspect of the city was greatly changed by the unfortunate conflagration which consumed so large a part ot it during its occupation by General Sherman's forces, in 1865. The State Capitol, when completed, will be one of the handsomest public buildings in the United States, and the Insane Asylum is an object of great interest. The view from Ar- senal Hill is the most beautiful in this portion of South Carolina. From Columbia to Charleston, the journey will give the traveler some inkhng of the lowland feat- ures of Southern landscape, though not in its most interesting character, since the country is level, and most of the way is through extensive pine-forests. There are no stations on the route calling for special mention. CHARLESTON. 131 CHARLESTON. (Besides the route above described, Charleston may be reached by rail from Richmond via Danville, Greensboro, Charlotte, and Columbia. This route is farther inland and slightly longer than the other: otherwise it differs little. From New York, Charleston is reached direct t"?« ''New York and Charleston Steamships?," leaving Pier 29, Nortli River, at 3 p. m., on Tuesdays. Thursdavs. and Saturdays. Time, about 60 hours; fare [cabin]. |20. From Philadelpiiia via steamer, leaving Pier 4, every Friday, Time and fare same as from New York. From Baltimore by steamer every five days. Time, 50 hours ; fare. $15.) CHARLESTON, the chief commercial citj of South Carolina, is picturesquely situated at the confluence of the Ashley and Cooper Elvers, in lat. 32° 45' N., and Ion. 79° 57' W. The rivers run a parallel course for nearly 6 m.", widening as they approach the sea, and thus gradually narrowing the site of the city to a penin- sula. The harbor is a large estuary, extending about 7 m. to the Atlantic, with an average width of 2 m. It is landlocked on all sides except an entrance of about a mile in width. The passage to the inner harbor is defended by four fortresses. On the r. at the entrance is Fort Moultrie, on Sullivan's Island, occupying the site of the fort which, on June 28, 1776, beat off the British fleet of Sir Peter Parker. On the ]., raised upon a shoal in the harbor and directly covering the channel, is Fort Sum- ter, rendered famous by the part which it played in the opening scene of the civil war. Immediately in front of the city, and but 1 m. from it, is Castle Pinckney, CliurleBton. covering the crest of a mud-shoal, and facing the entrance. A fine view of the city is obtained in entering the harbor from the sea ; and, as it is built on low and level land, it seems to rise from the water as we approach, whence it has been called the "American Venice." The corporate limits of Charleston extend from Battery or White Point, on the extreme S. verge of the city, to an arbitrary line on the N. about 3 m. above. Within this area the city is laid out with tolerable regularity, the streets generally crossing each other at right angles. The houses are mostly of brick or wood, and have large open grounds around them. There are few regular blocks or rows of buildings, and no uniformity ; but what is lost in this respect is gained in variety, and with the fine gardens, shade and fruit trees, creepers, vines, the magnolia, the oak, the cedar, and the pride of India, girdhng the quaint dwell- ing-houses, the effect is highly picturesque. Charleston was settled in 1679 by an English colony under William Sayle, who became the first Governor. It played a conspicuous part in the Revolution, having been the first among the chief places of the South to assert a common cause with and for the colonies. It was thrice assaulted by the British, and only yielded to a six weeks' siege by an overwhelming force. May 12, 1780, It was the leading city, both in the nullification movement during Jackson's administration and in the in- cipient stages of Southern secession. Open hostilities in the civil war began at 132 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. Charleston, with the bombardment of Fort Sumter on April 12, 1861 ; and for the next four years it was one of the chief points of Federal attack, without bein": lost by the Confederates, however, until Sherman's capture of Columbia on February 17, 1865. During the war many buildings were destroyed, and the towers and steeples of churches riddled with shot and shell. Since its close rapid progress has been made in the work of rebuilding, and Charleston is now more prosperous than ever. The growth of population has been as follows: In 1800 it was 18,711; in 1850, 42,985 ; in 1860, 40,519; and in 1870, 48,956. The commerce of the city is large, the chief exports being cotton (for which it is one of the chief shipping-ports), rice, naval stores, and fertilizers. Tlie manufacture of fertilizers from the valuable beds of marl and phosphate, discovered in 1868, is now one of the principal industries; but there are also flour and rice mills, bakeries, carriage and wagon factories, and machine-shops. Hotels and Restaurants. — The leading hotel is the Charleston Hotel ($4 a day), centrally located in Meeting St., between Hayne and Pinckney Sts. It is noted for its great stone colonnade and piazza, reaching from pavement to roof. The Mills House^ also in Meeting St., is temporarily closed. The Pamlioii Hotel, cor. Meeting and Hasel Sts. ($3 a day), and the Waverley House ($2.50 a day), in King St. near Hasel, are unpretentious but comfortable houses. There are few restaurants in Charleston, almost none deserving the'name, though there are "lunch-rooms," with bars attached. The best of these are in East Bay St. near Broad, and in King St. near Went worth. Modes of tonveyance. — Three lines of horse-cars traverse the city, and afford easy access to the chief points of interest (fare lOc). They pass through the principal streets, from the Exchange and tlie battery to the upper ends of Rutledge Ave. and Meeting St. Omnibuses are in waiting at the depots and landings on the arrival of trains and steamers, and convey passengers to any portion of the city (fare 50c.). Livery -staMes are attached to the different hotels, and, though the charges are not uniform, they are usually moderate. Sti'eets and Drives. — The two principal streets are King and Meeting, which run iSr. and S., nearly parallel, the whole length of the city, but converge to intersection near the northern limits. Ring St, contains the leading retail stores, and is the fashionable promenade. The jobbing and wholesale stores are chiefly in Meeting St. ; and the banks, and brokers' and insurance offices, are in Broad St. The Battery is a popular j)roraenade, lying near the water's edge, and commanding an extensive view of the Bay ; it is surrounded by fine private residences. Fine residences are also found in Meeting St. below Broad, in Rutledge St. and Ave., and at the W. end of Wentworth St. The roads leading out of the city along the Ashley and Cooper Rivers are singularly beautiful, and aftord interesting drives. They are all richly embowered in loveliest foliage; pines, oaks, magnolias, myrtles, and jas- mines, vying with each other in tropical luxuriance and splendor. There are also fine drives on Sullivan's Island (reached by ferry). Pnblic- and Prominent 6nildin;°;s. — Several of the most important of these are clus- tered at the intersection of Broad and Meeting Sts. On the N. E. corner is the City Hall, an imposing building, entered by a double flight of marble steps, and standing in an open square. The Council-Chamber is handsomely furnished, and con- tains some interesting portraits. On the N. W. corner is the Court-House, a substan- tial structure of brick, faced so as to resemble stone. On the S. E. corner stands St. Michael's Church, which will be described further on ; and on the S. W. corner is the Guardhouse, or Police Headquarters, a plain brick building, with a colonnade ex- extending over the sidewalk in Broad St. The force is semi-military in organization, and is composed about equally of whites and negroes, who drill with Winchester rifles. At the foot of Broad St. stands the Post- Office, a venerable structure, dating from the colonial period, the original material having been brought from England in 1761. It was much battered during the war, but has since been renovated. The new Custom-House, which has been building for several years and is still unfinished, is situated just S. of the Market-wharf, on Cooper River. It is of white marble, in the Roman-Corinthian style, and will be the finest edifice in the city. . A noble CHARLESTOX. 133 view is obtained from its graceful Corintliian portico. The Charleston Cluh-IIouse is an elegant building, in Meeting St. between Broad and Tradd, with a pretty gar- den in front. It was erected before the war, by the Carolina Club (wliich was broken up by the war), and is now used by the United States Courts. The Cham- her of Commerce occupies the 2d and 3d floors of a handsome building at the cor. of Broad and East Bay Sts. ; it has a good reading-room and a restaurant for the use of the membei's. The Academy of Mime, cor. King and Market Sts., is one of the finest theatres in the South. It is 60 by 231 ft., and cost $160,000. Besides the theatre, with accommodations for 1,200 persons, it contains two large halls for concerts, lectures, etc. The 21asonic Temple is a large but rather fantastic build- ing, at the cor. of King and Wentworth Sts. The old Orphan-IIonse, standing in the midst of spacious grounds, between Calhoun and Vanderhorst Sts., is the most im- posing edifice in the city, and one of the most famous institutions of the kind in the country. John C. Fremont, once a candidate for the presidency, and C, C. Mem- minger. Confederate Secretary of the Treasury, were educated there. A statue of William Pitt, erected during the Revolution, stands in the centre of the grounds. The College of Charleston^ founded in 1788, has spacious buildings, located in the square bounded by George, Green, College, and St. Philip Sts. It has a library of about 6,000 v^olumes, and a valuable museum of natural history. The Medical Col- lege, cor. Queen and Franklin Sts., and Roper Hospital, cor. Queen and Mazyck Sts., are large and handsome buildings, the latter especially so. On the same square with these two are the City Hospital and tlie County Jail. The WorJchouse, near by, in Magazine St., is a spacious castellated structure in the Norman style. The Charleston Library, founded in 1748, has a plain but commodious building at the cor. of Broad and Church Sts. It lost heavily in the fire of 1861, but now contains about 20,000 volumes. The South Carolina Society Hall, in Meeting St. near St. Michael's Church, is a substantial structure, with colonnade and portico, and a fine interior. Market Hall, in Meeting St. near the Bay, is a fine building, in temple form, standing on a high, open basement, having a lofty portico in front, reached by a double fiight of stone steps. In rear of this building are the markets, consisting of a row of low sheds supported by brick arches, and extending to East Bay St. Between 6 and 9 a. m. these markets present one of the most characteris- tic sights that the stranger can see in Charleston. Chni'ches. — There are at least two churches in Charleston tliat no stranger should fail to visit — St. Michael's and St. Philip's — both Episcopal. St. MiehaePs is at the S. E. corner of Broad and Meeting Sts. It was built in 1752, it is said from designs from a pupil of Sir Christopher Wren. The tower is considered very fine, and the situation of the church makes the spire a conspicuous object far out at sea. Its chimes are celebrated for their age and sweetness. During the siege of Charleston, in the late war, the spire was a mark for the Federal artillerymen; but, though persistently shelled, it was struck but a few times, and then only with slight injury. The view from the belfry is very fine, embracing the tar stretch of sea and shore, the fortresses in the harbor, the shipping, and nearer at hand build- ings as ancient as the church itself. St. Philip's, in Church St. near Queen, Avas the first church establishment in Charleston ; but the present structure, although of venerable age, is yet not quite so old as St. Michael's. The view from the steeple is fine; but there is a keener interest in the graveyard than even in the old church itself, for here lie South Carolina's most illustrious dead. In the portion of the graveyard that lies across the street is the tomb of John C. Calhoun. It consists of a plain granite slab, supported by walls of brick, and for inscription has simply the name of "Calhoun." St. Fiiibar^s Cathedral (Roman Catholic), or rather the ruins of it (for the building was destroyed in the great fire of 1861), is at the cor. of Broad and Friend Sts. It was one of the most elegant edifices in Charleston, and the walls, turrets, and niches, still standing, are highly picturesque. The Citadel Square Baptist Church, cor. Meeting and Henrietta Sts., is a fine building, in the Norman style, with a spire 220 ft. high. The Central Presbyterian, in Meeting St. near Society, has an elegant Corintliian portico with 8 columns. Tlie Vnita- Tian Church, in Archdale St. near Queen, is a fine specimen of the perpendicular 10 134 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. Gothic style, and has a vei^ rich interior. The new German Lutheran Clinrch^ in King St. opposite the Citadel, is a handsome hiiilding, in the Gothic style, with lofty and ornate spire. Grace CTiurch (Episcopal), in Wentworth St., is the most fashionable in the city. The o]d Huguenot Churchy cor. Church and Queen Sts., is worthy of a visit, if for no other purpose, to see the quaint and elegant mural entab- latures with which its walls are lined. Sobnrbs. — Just outside of the city, on the N. boundary, is Magnolia Cemetery (reached by horse-cars). It is embowered in magnolias and live-oaks, is tastefully laid out, and contains some fine monuments, of which the most noteworthy are those to Colonel Wm. Washington, of Revolutionary fame, Hugh LegarS, and AV. Gilmore Sirams, the novelist. In a vault repose the remains of Lieutenant Yanderliost, whose coffin, shrouded with the Union Jack, may be seen through the lattice-door of the tomb. — Of the old planters' houses that stood along the Ashley, but one remains, and that is abandoned. Drayton Hall is a large brick mansion, standing in the centre of grounds of a park-like character. The rooms are wainscoted from floor to ceiling, the fireplaces are lined with old-fashioned colored tiles, and the mantels are richly carved ; but the building was never entirely finished, for the owner lost the bride for whom it was designed, and since then it has stood in its incompleteness a memorial of his loss. The mansion is now occupied by negroes. Its parlor is a granary, its wainscot is badly marred, and the rare colored tiles of its fireplaces have been in part carried off" by predatory hands. A few miles farther up the river are the ruins of the celebrated Middleton Place, once one of the most beautiful plantations in South Carolina. The scenery, the flowers, hedges, and shrubbery, the undergrowth and noble oaks, the ponds and lakes, the picturesque old tombs — these still remain, but it is melancholy to contemplate that all the ruin whicli one sees around him was caused by the unsparing hand of war. Visitors frequently make a pilgrimage to the spot in order to gratify their curiosity, and, if reports are true, the house has suflered greatly from their unscrupulous desire for relics. Per- haps the most interesting spot in the neighborhood of Charleston is the old Church of St. James on Goose Creek (reached by carriage, or by Northeastern E. R. to Porcher's Station, 15 m.). It is situated in the very heart of a forest, is approached by a road little better than a bridle-path, and is entirely isolated from habitations of any sort. The church was built in 1711, and was saved from destruction during the Revolutionary War l)y the royal arms of England that are emblazoned over the pulpit. The floor is of stone, the pews are square and high, the altar, reading-desk, and pulpit, are so small as to seem like miniatures of ordinary church-fixtures, and on the walls and altar are tablets in memory of the early members of the congrega- tion. One dates from 1711 and two from 1717. — A short distance from the church, on the other side of the main road, is a farm known as the The Oals, from the magnificent avenue of those trees by which it is approached. The trees are believed to be nearly 200 years old ; they have attained great size, and for nearly J nt. form a continuous arch over the broad road. A day or two may be profitably spent in visiting the various points of interest in the harbor: Fort Sumter, which is picturesque even in its ruins; James Island, with its ruined plantations and crumbhng fortifications; Mount Fleasant, once a popular summer resort, but now filled Avith moss-grown and rotting houses; and Sullitan^s Island, which is fast becoming the " Long Branch " of South Carolina, and already contains many handsome cottages and some attractive drives. A steam- boat plies regularly every hour between the city, Mount Pleasant, and Sullivan's Island, and on the latter is a line of horse-cars. CHARLESTON TO SAVANNAH. (F^a Savannah & Charleston E. E. Distance, 107 m. Time. 7hrs.) This road runs within a few miles of the Atlantic coast line, though never in sight of the ocean. For miles the rails are laid on piles, passing through marsh and morass, and crossing swift-rushing, dirty streams, dignified by the name of rivers, and baptized with unpronounceable Indian names. There are no towns of impor SAVANNAH. 13^ tance on the line, but the scenery is wild and rich. Extensive pine-forests, lofty cypresses, wreathed in garlands of pendent moss, the bay and the laurel, draped with the vines of the wild-grape and of ivy, and huge oaks that have stood the wear anl tear of centuries, line the road on either side. Noble avenues are created by these forest giants, and [)endent from their stalwart limbs hang long festoons of moss and vine, dimly veiling the vista beyond. Flowers grow in profusion, and give variety and beauty to the green shades of the leaves and ijlants. SAVANNAH. (Savauuah may be readied by rail direct from Richmond via Danville, Charlotte. N. C, and Augusta. Ga. From New York there are steamers three times a week ; on Tuesdays from Pier 16 East Eiver, on Thursdays and Saturdays from Pier 8 North River, at 3 p. m. Time, about 00 hrs. ; fare [cabin], $20. There are also steamers to Savannah from Philadelphia [every Saturday] and from Balti- more [three times a month]. Fare from Philadelphia, $20 ; from Baltimore. $15.1 Hotels: The Screcen Rouse, on Johnson S«4uare ($4 a day) ; the PidasM House, in Bryan St., Johnson Square ($4 a day) ; the Marshall House, in Broughton St. ($3 a day) ; and the Pavilion Hotel ($3 a day). SAVANISTAH, the chief city of Georgia, is situated on the S. bank of the Savannah River, 18 m. from its mouth. The site was selected by General Oglethorpe, the founder of the colony of Georgia, who made his first settlement at this point in February, 1733. The city occupies a bold bluff, about 40 ft. high, extending along the river-bank for a mile, and backward, widening as it recedes, about 6 m. The river making a gentle curve around Hutchinson's Island, the water-front of the city is in the shape of an elongated crescent about 2^ m. in length. The corporate Savannah. limits extend back on the elevated plateau about U m., the total area of the city being 3|- sq. m. In its general plan. Savannah is universally conceded to be one of the handsomest of American cities. Its streets are broad and beautifully shaded, they cross each other at right angles, and at many of the principal crossings are small public squares or parks, from 1^ to 3 acres in extent. These parks, 24 in number, located at equal distances through the city, neatly inclosed, laid out in walks, and planted with the evergreen and ornamental trees of the South, are among the most characteristic features of Savannah ; and, in the spring and summer months, when they are carpeted with grass, and the trees and shrubbery are in full foliage, afford 136 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. delightful shady walks, and playgrounds for the children, while they are not only or- namental, but conducive to the general health by the free ventilation which they afford. Upon the large "trust-lots," four of which front on each of these squares (2 on the E. and 2 on the W,), many of the public editices and palatial private resi- dences of the city are built. The residences are mostly surrounded by flower-gardens, which bloom throughout the year ; and among the shrubbery, in which the city is literally embowered, are the orange-tree, the banana, the magnolia, the bay, the laurel, the cape-myrtle, the stately palmetto, the olive, the flowering oleander, and the pomegranate. Savannah was founded, as we have seen, in 1733. In 1776 the British attacked it and were repulsed; but on December 29, 1778, they reappeared in overwhelming force and took possession of the city. In October, 1779, the combined French and Americans attempted to recapture it, but were unsuccessful, and Count Pulaski fell in the engagement. Savannah received a city charter in 1789. In 1850 it had 15,- 312 inhabitants ; in 18(30, 22,292 ; and in 1870, 28.235. The chief business of the place is the receipt and shipment of cotton, though the trade in lumber is also con- siderable. As a cotton port it ranks second in the United States, It recovered rapidly from the effect of the civil war, and its commerce has since about doubled. The chief manufacturing establishments are planing-mills, founderies, and flouring and grist mills. The great warehouses of the city are located on a narrow street at the foot of the steep bluff; they open below on the level of the piers, and from the uppermost story on the other side upon a sandy area 200 ft. wide and divided by rows of trees. This is called the Bay, and is the great commercial mart of Savannah. The principal business streets and promenades are Bull, Drayton, and Broad Sts. Among the noteworthy public buildings are the new granite Custom- House, which also contains the Post- Office, cor. Bull and Bay Sts. ; the City Exchange, in front of which General Sherman reviewed his army, January 7, 1865; the Court-Hovse, Theatre, State Arsenal, Artillery Armory, and Jail. St. AncJ/reiD's Hall and the Chatham Academy are conspicuous buildings. From the tower of the Exchange the best view of the city and neighborhood is to be had. The building on the N. E. cor. of Bull and Broughton Sts., known as the Masonic Hall, is interesting as the place where the Ordinance of Secession was passed, Jan. 21, 1861. Four years later (Dec. 28, 1864), a meeting of citizens was held in the same apartment to com- memorate the triumph of the Union arms. Among the interesting relics of the past history of Savannah are the building in which the Colonial Legislature held its ses- sions, ill S. Broad St. near Drayton, and the mansion of the Governor of Georgia during the occupation of the city by the British, which stands in Broughton St. The MarTcet presents an animated and characteristic spectacle in the early morning. The Georgia Historical Society has a large and beautiful hall, in which are a fine library and some interesting relics. Of the church edifices the Episcopal Churches of St. Johnh and Chrisfs are the most striking. The former is in the Gothic, the latter in the Ionic style. The lofty spire of the Indejjendent Presbyterian Church is much admired. This church is built of Quincy granite, and cost $130,000. Trinity Church stands in Johnson Square, near the spot where John Wesley deliv- ered his famous sermons. The most attractive place of public resort is Foi-syth Park, an inclosure of 30 acres in the S. part of the city. It is shaded by some venerable old trees, is laid out in serpentine walks, and ornamented with evergreen and flowering trees and shrubs. In the centre is a handsome fountain, after the model of that in the Place de la Concorde, Paris. In Johnson or Monnment Square, near the centre of the city, is a fine JDoric obelisk, erected to the memory of General Greene and Count Pulaski, the corner-stone of which was laid by Lafayette, during his visit in 1825. The Pnlaski Monument stands in Chippewa Square, and is one of the most chaste and perfect specimens of monumental architecture in the United States. The steps are plinths of granite; the shaft is of purest marble, 55 ft. high, and is surmounted by an exquisitely-carved statue of Liberty, holding the national banner. The monu-j ment appropriately covers the spot where Pulaski fell, during an attack upon the! MOBILE. 137 city while it was occupied by the British, in 1779. It was constructed by Launitz, of Xew York, at a cost of $22,000, gold. Thouii'h built upon a sandy plain, Savannah is not without suburban attractions, there being several places in its vicinity whose sylvan character and picturesque beauty are in keeping witli the ''Forest City" itself. Thunderbolt, Isle of Hope, Beaulieu, Montgomery, and AVhite Blutf, are all rural retreats on "Tlie Salts," within short driving-distance of the city, where, in the summer months, bracing sea- breezes and salt-water bathing may be enjoyed. The great drive is to Boiiaventare Cemetery, which is situated on Warsaw Eiver, a branch of the Savannah, about 4 m. from the city. The scenery of Bonaventure has long been renowned for its Arcadian beauty. A hundred years ago the seat of the Tatnalls, a wealthy English family, tlie grounds around the mansion w'ere laid out in broad avenues, and plunted in native live-oaks. These trees, long since fully grown, stand like massive columns on either side, while their far-reaching branches, interlacing over- head like tlie frilled roof of some vast cathedral, the deep shade of their evergreen foliage shutting out the sky above, and the long, gray moss-drapery depending from the leafy canopy, silent and still, or gently sw^aying in the breeze, give to the scene a weird and strangely sombre aspect, at once picturesque and solenm. A more beautiful or more appropriate home for the dead than in the sliades of these green forest-aisles cannot well be imagined. Thunderholt^ the favorite summer-resort, is on the Warsaw River. 1 m. beyond Bonaventure. According to local tradition, this place received its name from the fall of a thunderbolt. A spring of water which issued from the spot upon that event has continued to flow ever since. Jas- per Sjyring^ 2^ m. W. of the city, is the scene of the famous Revolutionary exploit of Sergeant Jasper, who, with only one companion, successfully assailed a British guard of eight men and released a party of American prisoners. SAVANNAH TO MOBILE. ( Via Georgia Central, Atlanta & West Point, Western, and Mobile & Montgomerv Railways. Distance, 654 ra. There are no through-trains, and the traveler will have to consult local time-tables.) This route passes through the most productive and thickly-settled districts of Georgia and Alabama, and will enable the traveler to see many of the most charac- teristic aspects of Southern inland scenery, which, if not strikingly picturesque, is generally pleasing. JSTumerous towns, some of them very pretty, cluster along the line, but there are only two or three of sufficient importance to require special mention. illaeou (190 m.j, one of the most prosperous and populous cities of Georgia, is prettily situated on the Ocmulgee River. It contains upward of 10,000 inhabitants, is the site of several important iron-founderies, machine-shops, and flour-mills, is regu- larly laid out and well built, and, like Savannah, is embowered in trees and shrub- bery. Atlanta (293 m.) is the capital of Georgia, and, next to Savannah, the largest and most important city in the State. It is the outgrowth of tlie railroad-system centring there, and is rather Northern than Southern in character. It is pictu- resquely situated upon hilly ground, and has some fine scenery in its neighborhood, but possesses little to interest the tourist. The principal buildings are the State- House (from the cupola of which a fine view is obtained), the City-Hall, the Kim- ball House, and the Union Passenger Depot. Montgomery (468 m.) is the capital of Alabama, and the second city of tlie State in size and commercial importance. It is situated on the Alabama River, was founded in 1817, had 10,588 inhabitants in 1870, and has a sort of fame as the first capital of the Confederate States. The only noteworthy building is the State-House, which, though small, is an imposing structure. It is situated on Capitol Hill, and from its dome an extended view is obtained. MOBILE. (Mobile is reached direct from New York via Baltimore. Richmond. Danville. Charlotte, Aueusta, Atlanta, and Montgomery. Distance. 1,364 m. : time. 72 hours: fare. *40 .50. Also via '-Great Southern Mail Route.'" Baltimore, Washington, Lynchburg. Bristol. Knoxville. Dalton. Rome, and Montgomery. Distance, 1,273 m. : time. 2 days 19 hours : fare, $40.50. Passengers from the West can reach Mobile via Louisville, Nashville, and Chattanooga, i Hotels ! The Battle House ($4 a day), cor. Royal and St. Francis Sts., is the leading hotel, and almost the only one worthy the name. 138 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. MOBILE, tlie largest city and only seaport of Alabama, is situated on the W. side of the Mobile River, immediately above its entrance into Mobile Bav, 30 m. from the Gulf of Mexico, in lat. 30° 42' N. and Ion. 88° W. Its site is^a sandy plain, rising as it recedes from the river, and bounded, at the distance of a few miles, by high and beautiful hills. The corporate limits of the city extend 6 m. 'N. and S. and 2 or 3 m. W. from the river. The thickly-inhabited part extends for about a mile along the river, and nearly the same distance back toward the hills. It is laid out with considerable regularity, and the streets are generally well paved and delightfully shaded. Six lines of horse-cars traverse the city, and a water-supply, of unusual purity and excellence, is brought from Spring Hill, m. distant. On Mobile Point, a short distance below the city, is a lighthouse, the lan- tern of which is 55 ft. above the sea-level. Foj-t Morgan (formerly Fort Bowyer), and Fort Gaines, a formidable fortress, opposite Dauphin Island, command the entrance to tlie harbor. SjxmisJi Fort and Foj^t Blalcely, and Batteries Gladden, Tracy, Mcintosh and Huger, are passed on the Tensas River, from Mobile to Pol- lard and Montgomery. Large numbers of sailing-vessels ply between Mobile and New Orleans, the ports on the Gulf of Mexico, and the Atlantic coast. A daily line of steamers runs to ISTew Orleans by way of lakes Borgne and Pontchartrain ; also up the Alabama River to Montgomery and other points. Mobile was the original seat of French colonization in the Southwest, and for many years the capital of the colony of Louisiana. Historians difter as to the pre- cise date of the foundation, though it is known that a settlement was made a little above the present site of the city at least as early as 1702. Many of the first set- tlers were Canadians. In 1723 the seat of the colonial government was transferred to New Orleans. In 1763, Mobile, with all that portion of Louisiana lying E. of the Mississippi and N. of Bayou Iberville, Lakes Maurepas and Pontchartrain, passed into the possession of Great Britain. In 1780 England surrendered it to Spain, and that Government made it over to the United States in 1813. It was incorporated as a city in 1819, the population being then about 800. Mobile was one of the last points in the Confederacy occupied by the Union forces during the late war, and was not finally reduced until April 11, 1865, three days after the surrender of General Lee. On August 5, 1864, the harbor fortifications were attacked by Admiral Farragut, who ran his fleet past the forts, destroyed the Confederate fleet, including the ram ' Tennessee, reduced the forts, and closed the harbor against blockade-runners, though he failed to capture the city itself. The trade of Mobile is much hindered by the shallowness of its harbor. Vessels drawing more than 8 or 10 ft. are obliged to an- chor in the bay, 25 m. or more from the city; but improvements are now in prog- ress which it is hoped will enable vessels of 13 ft. of water to reach the wharves. The chief business is the receipt and shipment of cotton, of which from 325,000 to 350,000 bales are dispatched annually. The manufactures include carriages and furniture, paper, founderies and machine shops, and a brewery. Gomrnment Street is the finest avenue and favorite promenade of the city. It is shaded by superb oak-trees, and is bordered by fine residences surrounded by luxuriant gardens. The Public Square, between Dauphin and St. Francis Sts., is also a place of much resort. It is adorned with live-oaks and other shade-trees. The Castoni-Honse, which also contains the Post- Office, at the cor. of Royal and St. Fran- cis Sts., is the finest, largest, and most costly public edifice in the cit}^ It is built of granite, and cost $250,000. The Theatre and the Market- House, with rooms in the upper story for the municipal ofiicers, are in Royal St. The Battle House presents an imposing fagade of ])ainted brick, immediately opposite the Custom-House. Odd- Fellows' Hall, in Royal St., and Temperance Hall, cor. St. Michael and St. Joseph Sts., are conspicuous buildings. Adjoining Odd-Fellows' Hall is the Bank of Mobile, with a stately colonnade and portico. Barton Academy, in Royal St., is a large and handsome building surmounted by a dome. Of the church edifices the most notable are the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception (Roman Catholic), in Claiborne St. between Dauphin and Conti ; Christ Church, (Episcopal), cor. Church and St. Emanuel Sts.; Trinity (Episcopal) with massive campanile and belfry; and the First Presbyterian, cor. Government and Jackson Sts. The principal charitable in- NEW ORLEANS. 139 stitutions are the City Hospital,, the United States Marine Hospital^ four Orplian Asyhims, and the Providence Infirmary. Mobile Academy \^ a flourishing institution with a fine building, in Government St. near Ann. The Medical College is also a prosperous institution. Spring Hill is a pleasant suburban retreat miles west of the city (reached by the St. Francis St. cars). The College of St. Joseph, a Jesuit institution, is located here. It was founded in 1832 by Bishop Portier, and has a fine building 375 ft. long surmounted by a tower from which noble views may be obtained. The college has a library of 8,000 volumes and a valuable collection of scientific apparatus. A statue of the Virgin Mary brought from Toulouse, France, stands in rear of the building. The Gulf Sliell Road aftbrds a delightful drive, 9 m. in length, along the shore of the bay. MOBILE TO NEW ORLEANS. {Via New Orleans, Mobile & Texas Railway. Distance, 140 m. Time, 7 hrs.) "XoTHiXG in lowland scenery," says Mr. Edward King, in his "Great South," *' could be more picturesque than that aftbrded by the ride from New Orleans to Mobile, over the ikiobile & Texas Railroad, which stretches along the Gulf line of Louisiana, Mississippi, and Alabama. It runs through savannahs and brakes, skirts the borders of grand forests, ofi'ers here a glimpse of a lake and there a peep at the blue waters of the noble Gulf; now clambers over miles of trestle-work, as at Bay St. Louis, Biloxi (the old fortress of Bienville's time) and Pascagoula ; and now plunges into the very heart of pine-woods, where the foresters are busily building little towns and felling giant trees, and where the revivifying aroma of the forest is mingled w^ith the fresh breezes from the sea." NEW ORLEANS (New Orleans is reached direct from New York by rail via •' Great Southern Mail Route : " Baltimore, Washington, Lynchburg, Bristol. Knoxville, Rome. Montgomery, and Mobile. Distance. 1.405 m : time. 73 hrs.; fare, $42.50. hXsovia precediiiir route to Knoxville; thence via Cbattanooga, Corinth. Meridian, and Mobile. Distance, 1.53^ m.: time. 80 brs.; fare. .$42.50. By steamer from New York on Wednesdays [from Pier 21 East River] and Saturdays [from Pier 5 and Pier 9 North River]. Time, 7 days; fare [cabin]. $50. From Philadelphia via semi-monthly Steamers, touching at Havana. Time. 11 davs; fare, $60. From Baltimore via semi-monthly steamers, touching at Ha- vana and Key West.' Time, 8 days ; fare, $50. From Pittsburg, Cincinnati, or St. Louis, ma steamer down the Mississippi River. From Louisville by rail, via Memphis and Jackson.) ■^"TEW ORLEANS, the capital, chief city, and commercial metropolis of Louisiana, _lN is situated on both banks (but chiefly on the left) of the Mississii)pi River, 100 m. above its mouth, in lat. 29° 57' N. and Ion. 90° W. The older portion of the city is built within a great bend of the river, from which circumstance it derives its faniiliar sohriquet of the " Crescent City." In the progress of its growth ui)-stream, it has now so extended itself as to follow^ long curves in opposite directions, so that the river-front on the 1. bank presents an outline somewhat resembling the letter S. The statutory limits of the city embrace an area of nearly 150 sq. m., but the actual city covers an area of about 41" sq. m. It is built on land gently descending from the river toward a marshy tract in the rear, and from 2 to 4 ft. below tlie level of the river at high- water mark, which is prevented from overflowing by a vast embankment of eai'th, called the Levee. This levee is 15 ft. wide and 4 ft. high, is constructed tor a great distance along the river-bank, and forms a delightful promenade durmg the fall and winter months. The site of New Orleans was surveyed in 1717 by De la Tour; it was settled in 1718, but abandoned in consequence of overflows, storms, and sickness; w^as reset- tled in 1723, held bv the French till 1729, then by the Spanish till 1801, and by the French again till 1803, when, with the province of Louisiana, it was ceded to the United States. It was incorporated as a city in 1804, and in 1868 was made the capital of the State. The most memorable events in the history of New Orleans are the battle of Jan. 8, 1815, in which the British w^ere defeated by Andrew Jack- son, and the capture of the city by Admiral Farragut on April 24, 1862. In 1810, 140 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. seven years after its cession to the United States, the popiihition of N"e\v Orleans was 17,243. In 1850 it had increased to 116,375 ; in 1860, to 168,675 ; and in 1870, to 191,418. In 1875 local authorities estimated it at about 210,000. — In the value of its exports and its entire foreign commerce New Orleans ranks next to New York, though several ports surpass it in the value of imports. Not unfrequently from 1,000 to 1,500 steamers and flat-boats may be seen lying at the Levee; and, except in the summer months, its wharves are thronged with hundreds of ships and sailing- New Orleans. crift from all quarters of the globe. New Orleans is the cliief cotton-mart of the world ; and, besides cotton, it sends abroad sugar, tobacco, flour, pork, etc., to the total value in 1874 of $93,715,710. Its imports of cotfee, sugar, salt, iron, dry- goods, liquors, etc., amounted in 1874 to $14,533,864. The manufactures of the city are not extensive. Hotels, Restanrauts, and Clubs. — The St Charles Hotels bounded by St. Charles, Gravier, and Common Sts., is one of the institutions of New Orleans, and one of the largest and finest hotels in the United States ($5 a day). The St. Louis is located in St. Louis St. between Royal and Chartres, in the French quarter. It once lield the same high rank as the St. Charles, but since 1874 it has been used as a State-House. The old dining-hall is one of the most beautiful in the country, and the great inner circle of the dome is richly frescoed witli allegorical scenes and busts of emi- nent Americans. The St. Jame.H ($4 a day), in Magazine St., between Gravier and Natchez, is a large and comfortable house. The City Hotel ($4 a day), cor. Camp and Common Sts., is much frequented by merchants and planters. Of restaurants New Orleans is said to have the best in America; in many of them is practised the famous Creole cuisine of ante- war times. The most noted are Moreau's., in Canal St.; Victor's, 38 and 40 Bourbon St.; John's, 16 and 18 Bourbon St. ; Antoine's, 65 St. Louis St. ; DenechaucVs, 8 Carondelet St, ; and McCloslcey's, 70 and 72 St. Charles St. In the French quarter cafes are to be found in nearly every block. There are about 20 clubs in the city, prominent among wliich are the Boston, Pickwick, Shakes!)eare, and Jockey Clubs. The JocTcey Cliih has a beautiful house and higlily decorated and cultivated grounds near the fair-grounds. The Shalie- spe'ire Chih gives occasional dramatic entertainments which are always largely and fashionably attended. The privileges of these as well as of the Social Club are obtained by introduction by a member. Diodes of Couveyance.— ^(9;-«e-c«rs aiford easy means of access to all parts of the NEW ORLEANS. 141 city and to the principal suburbs (fare from 5 to 7 cts.). Omnibuses attend the arrival of trains and steamers, and convey passengers to the hotels, etc. (fare 50 cts.). Carriages can be found at the stands in front of the St. Charles and other leading hotels. Fare $2 an hour; $5 for the forenoon or afternoon. The best plan for strangers is to hire a suitable conveyance by the hour and discharge at the end of each trip. Ferries connect the city with Algiers, Macdonough, and Gretna, on the E. side of the river. Streets and Drives. — The streets of New Orleans, in width and general a[)pearance, are second to those of no city of its size. As far back as Claiborne St. those running parallel to the river and to each other present an unbroken line from the lower to the upper limits of the city, a distance of about 12 in. Those at right angles to them run from the Mississippi toward the lake with more regularity than might be expected from the very sinuous course of the river. Many of the streets are well paved and some are shelled ; but many are unpaved and consequently scarcely usable in wet weather, while in dry weather they are intolerably dusty. Some of the finest streets of the city are in this condition. Caoal St. is the main business thoroughfare and promenade, and contains many fine stores and private residences. It is nearly 200 ft. wide, and has a grass-plot 25 ft. wide and bordered with two rows of trees, extending in the centre through its whole length. Claiborne, Rampart, St. Charles, and Esplanade Sts., are similarly embellished. Royal, Ramjjart^ and Es- planade Sts., are the principal prome- nades of the French quarter. — The favor- ite drive is out the Shell Road to Lake Pontchartrain, ])ast the celebrated Me- tal rie race-track. It presents a highly- animated spectacle on Sunday after- noons. Public and Promi- nent 6ni]ding«. — New Orleans is not rich in architecture, but there are a few im- posing building; Canal Street. Chief among these is the Instcni-Honse, which, next to the Capitol at Washimgton, is the largest building in the United States. This noble structure is built of Quincy granite brought from the Massachusetts quarries. Its main front on Canal St. is 334 ft. ; that on Custom-IIouse St., 252 ft. ; on the new Levee, 310 ft., and on the old Levee, 297 ft. Its height is 82 ft. The Long Room, or chief business apartment, is 116 by 90 ft., and is lighted by 50 windows. The building was begun in 1848, and is not yet entirely finLshed. The Posi-Oj^ce occupies the basement of the Custom-IIouse, and is one of the most elegant and commodious in the country. The U. S. Branch Mint stands at the cor. of Espla- nade and New Levee Sts. It is built of brick, stuccoed in imitation of brown-stone, in the Ionic style, and, being 282 ft. long, 180 ft. deep, and three stories high, presents an imposing appearance. No coining has been done there since the war, but Con- gress has taken steps to recommence operations. The window, under the front portico of the main building, from which Mumford was hung by order of Generiil Butler, June 7, 1862, is still pointed out. The City Hall, at the intersection of St. 142 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. Uuited States Mint. Charles and Lafayette Sts., is the most artistic of the public buildings of the city. It is of white marble, in the Ionic style, with a wide and high flight of granite steps leading to an ele- gant portico sup- ported by eight col- umns. The State and City Libraries occupy suitable rooms in this build- ing. The Court- Houses are on the r. and 1. of the Ca- thedral, in Jackson Square. They were constructed toward the close of the last c e n t u r y, through the liberahty of the founder of the Ca- thedral, Don Andre Almonaster, and are conspicuous for their quaint style of architecture, which is Tusco-Doric. The City Prisons, which comprise a county jail and a police jail, are in Orleans and Ann Sts., opposite the Market-Place. They are of brick plastered to imitate granite, and three stories high. The Merchants'' Exdumge, a handsome marble structure in Royal St. near Canal, was formerly a place of great resort, but since the removal of the Post-Office to the Custom-House its glory has departed, and it exists now in little more than name. Masonic Hall, cor. St. Charles and Perdido Sts., is an imposing edifice, 103 by 100 ft. Odd- Fellows'' Hall is a massive square structure at the cor. of Camp and Lafayette Sts., facing Lafayette Square. It is of brick, stuccoed and painted white, four stories high, and cost $210,000. On the second floor is the finest concert-hall in the South. Exposition Hall is a spacious building in St. Charles St., between Julia and Girod, in which are given floral displays and other exhibitions. The St. Charles and St. Louis Hotels, which are among the largest and finest edifices in the city, have already been men- tioned. The former has a spacious balcony and portico, lofty and handsome Corin- thian pillars, and a large and tasteful rotunda. The Meclianics'' Institute, in Dryades St. near Canal, is among the finest buildings in the city. The Pontalba Buildings are immense brick structures occupying the E. and W. sides of Jackson Square. Theatres and Places of Amasement. — The French Opera-House, cor. Bourbon and Toulouse Sts,, is a well-arranged building of modern construction. It has seats for 2,000, and is fitted up in the style of the Theatre Fran^ais, Paris. The Academy of Music, in St. Charles St., between Perdido and Commercial Sts., is the usual place for star performances. The St. Charles Theatre, in St. Charles St., between Per- dido and Poydras, is handsomely appointed, and has a good company. The Nation- al (or Globe) Theatre is at the cor. of Perdido and Baronne Sts. ; and the Varieties Theatre, in Canal St. Besides the theatres, there are a score or more of halls in which entertainments of various kinds are given. The principal of these are the Masonic Hall, Odd-Felloim'' Hall, and Exposition Hall, previously mentioned ; St. PatricTc's Hall, in Camp St., opposite Lafayette Square; and Qrilnewald Hall, in Baronne St., near Canal. Horse-races occur at Metairie Race-course and Oakland Race-course (both reached by Shell Road). C/liurches. — The most famous church edifice in N"ew Orleans is the old Cathedral of St. Louis (Roman Catholic), which stands in Ghartres St,, on the E. side of Jackson Square. It has an imposing facade surmounted by a lofty steeple and flanked by two towers, each surmounted by a smaller steeple. The foundation was laid in 1792, and the building completed in 1794, by Don Andre Almonaster, perpetual regidor of the province. It was altered and enlarged in 1850, from designs by De NEW ORLEANS. 143 Louilly. The paintings on the roof of the building are by Canova and Eossi. The Church of the Immaculate Conception (Jesuit), cor. Baronne and Common Sts., is a striking edifice in the Moorish style of architecture. High mass, both here and at the Cathedral, at 10 o'clock every Sunday. St. PatricTvs (Roman Catholic) is a fine Gothic structure in Camp St., X. of Lafayette Square. Its tower, 190 ft. high, was modeled after that of the famous minster at York, England. The church of St. John the Baptist, in Dryades St., between Clio and Calliope, which was opened in 1872, is a very elegant building. Tlie most fashionable Episcopal churches are Trinity., cor. Jackson and Coliseum Sts., and St. Paul's, cor. Camp and Gaiennie Sts. The latter is a handsome specimen of the Gothic style, and has a rich interior. Annunciation Church., overlooking Annunciation Square, is a fine edifice. The oldest of the Epis- copal organizations, dating back to 1806, is Christ Church., cor. Canal and Eampart Sts. The First Presbyterian, fronting on Lafayette Square, is a fine structure in the Greco-Doric style, much admired for its elegant steeple. The McGhee Church., in Carondelet St., near Lafayette, is the principal of the Methodist Episcopal churches South. The Unitarian Church., cor. St. Charles and Julia Sts., is a handsome build- ing. The Temple Sinai (Jewish synagogue), in Carondelet St., near Calliope, is one of the finest places of worship in the city. Party-colored bricks and pointing give its walls a light, airy appearance, and it has a handsome portico, flanked by two towers capped with tinted cupolas. The Gothic windows are filled with l)eautifully stained glass. St. Antoine''s Ghajyel., cor. Rampart and Conti Sts., is generally known as the "Mortuary Chapel,'' all funeral ceremonies of resident Catholics being per- formed here. One of the most interesting relics of the early church history of New Orleans is the old Ursuline Convent, in Conde St. This quaint and venerable build- ing was erected in 1787, during the reign of Carlos IIL, by Don Andre Alraonaster. It is now occupied by the bishop, and is known as the "Bishop's Palace." Educational and Charitable Institutions. — The Iniversity of Louisiana is in Common St., near Baronne, and occupies the entire front of the block. Only two depart- ments, law and medicine, have been organized, but these are of a very high order, and are largely attended. The Medical College, which stands in the centre of the block, has a fagade of 100 ft. It contains a large anatomical museum, and extensive and valuable collections of many kinds. Straight University is exclusively for col- ored students, and gives instruction of good grammar-school grade. There are 80 public schools, and numerous private ones, mostly Roman Catholic, The Charity Hospital, in Common St., between St. Mary's and Gironde, is one of the noblest buildings in the city, and one of the most famous institutions of the kind in the country. It was founded in 1784, has stood on its present site since 1832, and has acconimodations for 500 i)atients. The Hotel Dieu, \ m. farther back from the river, is a very fine hospital established by the Sisters of Charity, and supported entirely by receipts from patients, some of whom are, nevertheless, beneficiary. It occupies a full square, and is surrounded by a well-kept garden of shrubbery and flowers. The Maison de Sante, cor. Canal and Claiborne Sts., long one of the most noted infirmaries of New Orleans, is now deserted, and, like the U. S. Marine Hos- pital (cor. Common and Broad Sts.), which has not been used since 1860, is rapidly falling into decay. Other prominent charitable institutions are the Poydras Female Orphan Asylum, in Magazine St., the St. AnncCs Widoics'' Asylum., the St. Vincent Orphan Asylum^ the Indigent Colored Orphan Asylum, and the German Protestant Asylum. The ruins of the Touro Almshouse, burned during the war by colored troops, who had used it for barracks, occupy a prominent locale on the Levee at the S. end of the city. Public Squares*^ and Cemeteries. — There are 10 pubHc squares in the city, most of them inclosed with iron railings, but some barely more than in embryo. The largest of these inclosures is the City Pari, near the X. E. boundary (reached by Canal St. and Ridge Road cars). It embraces 150 acres, tastefully laid out, but is little frequented. Jackson Square (formerly known as the Place cVArmes), covering the centre of the river-front of the old Town Plot, now First District, is the favorite resort. It is adorned with beautiful trees and shrubbery, and shell-strewn paths, and in the centre stands Mills's equestrian statue of General Jackson. The imposing 144 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. fronts of the catliedral and courts of justice are seen to great advantage from the river-entrance to the square. Lafayette Square^ in the Second District, bounded by St. Charles and Camp Sts,, is another handsome inclosure. The fine marble front of the City Hall, the tapering spire of the Presbyterian Church, and the massive fa- cade of Odd-Fellows' Hall, present a striking appearance. In the square is a fine white-marble statue of Franklin, by Hiram Powers. In Canal St., between St. Charles and Royal, is a colossal bronze statue of Henry Clay, by Hart. Douglas Square is beautifully laid out and well kept. Annunciation Square and TivoU Circle, at the head of St. Charles St., are worth a visit. There are some handsome private residences in the neighborhood of the former. The Cemeteries of I^ew Orleans are noteworthy for their unique arrangement and peculiar modes of interment. From the nature of the soil, which is semi-fluid at a depth of 2 or 3 ft. below the surface, all the tombs are aboveground. Some of these are very costly and beautiful structures, of marble, iron, etc. ; but the great majority consist of cells, placed one above another, generally to the height of 7 or 8 ft. Each cell is only large enough to receive the cofiin, and is hermetically bricked up at its narrow entrance as soon as the funeral rites are over. In most instances a marble tablet, appropriately inscribed, is placed over the brickwork by which the vault (or " oven," as it is called here) is closed. There are 83 cemeteries in and near the city ; of these the Cypress Grove and GreeniDOod, on the Metairie Ridge, at the N. end of Canal St., are best worth visiting. St. Louis Cemetery No. I, at the cor. of Basin and St. Louis Sts., contains some fine monuments, of which the more noteworthy are the vaults of the '' Societe Fran^aise de Bienfaisance," "Orleans Battalion of Artillery," and ''Italian Benevolent Society." The last is of white marble, and is one of the most beautiful structures of its kind in the country. The Markets and the Levee. — The great " sight " of New Orleans, and perhaps the most picturesque to be seen in America, is the French Market, which comprises several buildings on the Levee, near Jackson Square. The best time to visit it is between 8 and 9 o'clock on Sunday morning, or at 6 a. m. on other days. At break of day the gathering commences, and it would seem as if all nations and tongues w^ere represented in the motley crowd wliich surges in and out until near 10 o'clock. The noise, far from being unpleasant, however, is musical to the stranger's ears ; and nowhere else will he find such an infinite variety of articles exposed for sale. Fruits are especially abundant and various, embracing all the products of both temperate and tropical regions, and the flowers are wonderful to behold. French is the prevailing language, and it will be heard in every variety, from the silvery elegance of the polished creole to the childish jargon of the negroes. The Letee aftords the visitor one of the most striking and characteristic sights of the Crescent City. For extent and activity it has no equal on the continent. The best points from whicli to obtain a view of the city and its environs are the roof of the St. Charles Hotel and the tower of St. Patrick's Church. Suburbs. — The Battle-field, the scene of General Jackson's great victory over the British, Jan. 8, 1815, is the most interesting spot in the vicinity of Xew Orleans. It lies 4i m. S. of Canal St., and may be reached either by carriage along the Levee or by horse-cars. It is washed by the waters of the Mississippi, and surrounded by cypress-swamj)S and canebrakes. A marble monument, 70 ft. high and yet unfin- ished, occupies a suitable site overlooking the ground, and serves to commemorate the victory. A National Cemetery occupies the S. W. corner of the field. Between the Battle-field and the city the JJrsuline Convent, an imposing building, 200 ft. long, overlooks the river. A nunnery and chapel are attached to the convent, Lalce Pontchartrain, 5 m. N. of the city, is famous for its fish and game. It is 40 m. long and 24 m. wide, and from 16 to 20 ft. deep. It is reached by the Lake Railway every hour, or by drive on the Shell Road. The swamps which lie be- tween the city and the lake are covered with a thick growth of cypress and other trees pecidiar to this locality. Carrollton, in the northern suburbs, has many fine public gardens and private residences. Algiers, opposite New Orleans, has exten- sive dry-docks and ship-yards. Communication by ferry. Gretna, on the same side, is a pretty rural spot, abounding in pleasant, shady walks. MONTREAL. 145 MONTREAL. (Montreal may be reached from New York via Hudson River or Harlem Railway to Albany, and thence via Rensselaer & Saratoga R. R. through Vermont [Burlinofon and Rutland]. Dit^tance, 335 m.; time, about 12 hours ; fare, $12. Also ria preceding route to Whitehall, .-md thence by steamer on Lake Champlain. Or by same route to Plattsburg. on Lake Chami)lain. and thence by steamer. From Boston. Montreal is reached rki Lowell and Vermont Central R. R. Distance, 3:34 m. ; time, 14 hours. Or rio Fitchburg and Rutland, 344 m. Or via Portland & Grand Trunk R. R., 405 m. From the West, via Detroit and the Grand 'J runk R. R.) ~1V /PONTKEAL, the largest city and commercial metropolis of British North IVI America, is situated on an island of the same name, at the confluence of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence Rivers, in lat. 45° 31' N. and Ion. 73° 35' W. It de- rives its name from Mont Real, or Mount Royal, which rises 750 ft. ahove the river, and closes the city in on that side. Including its suhurhs, Montreal stretches along the river for 2 m., from S. E. to N. W,, and for some distance extends from one to two miles inland. The houses are built mostly of a grayish limestone from adja- cent quarries, and with its tall spires and glittering roofs and domes, and the l)eau- tiful villas that stud its lofty background, the city presents as picturesque a pano- rama as is to be seen on the entire continent. The quays of Montreal are built of View of Montreal from Mount Royal. solid limestone, and, uniting with the locks and cut-stone Avharves of the Lachine Canal, they present for several miles a display of continuous masonry which has few parallels. Unlike the levees of the Ohio and Mississippi, no unsightly ware- houses distigure the river-side. A broad stone esplanade, or terrace, the jiarapets of which are surmounted with a substantial iron railing, forms the river-front. St. Paul St., the chief commercial tlioroughfare, extends along the river the wliole length of the city. Other important business streets are St. James, McGill, Xotre- Dame, and Commusioner Sts. The fashionable promenades are Gi'eat St. James and Xotre-Daine Sts. Tlie finest private residences are in the suburbs, toward Mount Royal. The settlement of Montreal dates from 1535, when it was visited by .Jacques Cartier, Avho named its mountain. In 1542 the first European settlers arrived, and just one century later the original Indian name (" Hochelaga") gave place to the French one of '' Yille Marie," which in time was replaced by the present one, when the city came into British possession in 1761. At the latter date, Montreal was 146 HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. well peopled and strongly fortified; nevertheless it was captured by the Americans under General Montgomery, in November, 1775, and held by them until the follow- ing summer. In 1779, Montreal contained about 7,000 inhabitants. In 1861 the population had increased to 90,823, and in 1871 to 107,225, The commerce of Montreal is very large, as, though it is 600 m. from the sea, its advantageous position at the head of ship-navigation on the St. Lawrence, and at the foot of the great chain of improved inland waters extending from the Lachine Canal to the western shores of Lake Superior, has made it the chief shipping-port of the Dominion of Canada. In 1873, its imports were valued at |44,320,646, and its exports at $19,- 679,118. The manufactures are various and important, the principal being axes and saws, steam-engines, printing-types, India-rubber shoes, paper, furniture, wool- ens, cordage, and flour. Hotels : The St. Laicrence Hall., a spacious and handsome house in Great St. James St. ; the Ottawa House, cor. St. James and Notre-Dame Sts. ; the Donnegana Home., in Notre-Dame St.; the Montreal House, on Custom-House Square, opposite the Custom-House ; and the Albion Hotel, in McGill St. Besides these there are numerous cafes and lodging-houses on a smaller scale. Modes of Conveyance. — Horse-cars traverse the city in all directions, and afford an easy access to any desired point. Carriages wait at the depot and steamboat-land- ings, and at various stands in the city. Their charges are: One-horse carriage for 1 or 2 persons, 25c. a course within the city limits, or 50c. an hour; for 8 or 4 per- sons, 40c. a course, 75c. an hour. Two-horse carriage, for 1 or 2 persons, 40c. a course, 75c. an hour ; for 3 or 4 persons, 50c. a course, $1 an hour. Public and Prominent Bnildings. — The most imposing public building in the city is the Bonseconrs Market, a fine stone edifice in the Doric style, fronting on the river at the cor. of St. Paul and Water Sts. It is three stories high, and is surn)Ounted by a dome, the view from which is extremely fine. In one of the upper stories are the city council-chamber and the offices of the Corporation, and a concert or ball room capable of accommodating 4,000 people. The Custom-House, on the site of an old market-place between St. Paul St. and the river, is a spacious and massive structure, with a fine tower. The Post-Orfice is a beautiful cut-stone edifice in Great St. James St., near the Place d'Armes. "The Court-House, in Kotre-Dame St., is a large and elegant building in the Ionic style, 300 by 125 ft., and erected at a cost of $300,000. It contains a law^ library of 6,000 volumes. Back of it is the Gliam%> de Mars, a fine military parade-ground. T\\q' Merchants'' Exchange is a handsome structure, in the modern Italian style, in St. Sacrament St. It contains a large and comfortable read- ing-room, well supplied with English and American newspapers and periodicals, all at the service of the stranger wiien properly introduced. The handsome buildings of the Banlc of Montreal and the City Bank stand side by side on the Place d'Armes. The first is a fine example of the Corinthian style. Fronting on the same square are the Masonic Hall, the home of the Grand Lodge of Masons of Canada, and the ele- gant Ontario Banlc. Fronting on Victoria Square, at the intersection of St. James and McGill Sts., is the fine building of the Young Men's Christian Association. Tlie Crystal Palace is a large building of small architectural pretensions, in St. Cath- erine St. near University, in which are exhibited the industrial products of the dif- ferent provinces. Mechanics'' Institute, in Great St. James St., is an elegant struct- ure in the Italian style, with an elaborately-decorated lecture-room. Churclies. — No American city equals Montreal in the size and magnificence of its church-edifices. The Eoman Catholic cathedral of Notre-Danie, fronting on the Place d'Armes, is the largest on the continent, being 241 ft. long and 135 ft. wide, and capable of seating from 10,000 to 12,000 persons. It is of stone, in the Gothic style, and has six towers, one at each corner and one in the middle of each flank. The tw^o on the main front are 213 ft. high, and in one of them is a fine chime of bells, the largest of which (the " Gros Bourdon") w^eighs 29,400 pounds. The. view from the tower, which is generally open to visitors, is very extensive. Even this huge structure will be surpassed in size by the new cathedral (Roman Catholic) now in course of erection at the cor. of Dorchester and Cemetery Sts., after the plan of St. Peter's, at Rome. Christ Church Cathedral (Episcopal), in St. Catherine St., is the MONTEEAL. I47 most perfect specimen of English-Gothic architecture in America. It is cruciform, built of rough Montreal stone with Caen-stone facings, and is surmonnted by a spire 224 ft. high. The interior decorations are extremely rich. The Bishop's^ Church (Roman Catholic), in St. Denis St., is a very elegant structure in the pointed Gothic style, known as the St. James. St. Patrklc's Church (Roman Catholic) occui)ies a commanding position at the W. end of Lagauchetiere St. It has seats for 5,000 per- sons, and its handsome Gothic windows are filled with stained glass. The Chnrcli of the Gei^u (Jesuit), in Bleury St., has the finest interior in the city. The vast nave (75 ft. high) is bordered by rich composite columns, and both walls and ceiling are beautifully painted and frescoed. Other important Roman Catholic churches are the Recollect, in Notre-Dame St., the Bonsecours., near the great market, and St. Mary''8., in Grifiintown. There are also chapels attached to all the nunneries, in some of which excellent pictures may be seen. Besides Christ Church Cathedral, the principal Episcopal churches are Trinity.^ a fine stone edifice in the early Eng- lish-Gothic style, in St. Paul St. ; St. George's, in St. Joseph St. ; St. Thomases, in St. Mary's St. ; and St. Ste'j^)lierC s, in Griflintown. St. Andrew's Cliurch (Presbyterian), in Radegonde St., is a beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture, being a close imita- tion of Salisbury Cathedral, though of course on a greatly reduced scale. Near by is the ClmrcTi of tlie Messiah (Unitarian), a lofty and spacious building. Zion Chvrch (Independent), in Radegonde St.. near Victoria Square, was the scene of the sad riot and loss of fife on the occasion of Gavazzi's lecture in 1852. The Wesley an Method- ist., m. Dorchester St., is a graceful building in the English-Gothic style ; and the same denomination have a large and handsome building in St. James St., and others in Grifiintown. Edneational aud Charitable Institutions, Nnnneries, etc. — First among the educational institutions is the university, or McGill College, which is beautifully situated at the base of Mount Royal, overlooking the city. The museum of this college is one of the finest in the country. The Museum of the XaturaJ History Society, another valuable col- lection, is near the Crystal Palace (admission, 25c.). The Geological Museum is in a large building fronting on the Champ de Mars. A short distance W. of McGill College, in Sherbrooke St., is the large and stately building of the ecclesiastical Seminary of St. Suljnce, for the education of Catholic priests. Another Seminary of St. Sulpice (founded in 1657), adjoining the cathedral of Notre-Dame, is 132 ft. long by 29 deep, and is surrounded by spacious gardens and court-yards. The Do- minion Military School is an immense building fronting on the Champ de Mars, The Asylum for the Blind, in St. Catherine St., near St. George, has a fine chapel in the Romanesque style with richly-frescoed interior. The Hotel Dien, founded in 1644 for the cure of the sick, is a vast and imposing building just outside the city limits (reached by Main St.). St. PairicA-'s Hospital, in Dorchester St., at the AV. end of the town, is another spacious structure. Both of these establishments are under the charge of the Sisters of St. Joseph. There are numerous other benevolent institu- tions in the city not calling for special mention. The Gray Kunnery (founded in 1092 for the care of lunatics and children) is a vast cruciform building in Dorchester St. The Blaclc, or Congregational Xuimery., in Notre-Dame St. near the Place d'Armes, dates from 1659, and is devoted to the education of young persons of the female sex. At Longue Pointe, a short distance from Montreal, is the great Convent of the Holy Name of Mary. The stranger de- sirous of visiting either of the nunneries should apply to the Lady Superior for ad- mission, which is seldom refused. Misceliaueons Places of Interest. — '' The lion ^^«r excellence of Montreal, the eighth wonder of the world," as it has been called, is the Victoria Bridge, wTiich spans the St. Lawrence, connecting the city on the island with the mainland to the S. Its length is 9,194 ft., or nearly 2 m. It rests, in this splendid transit, upon 23 piers and 2 abutments of solid masonry, the central span being 330 ft. long. The massive iron tube through which the railway-track is laid is 22 ft. high and 16 ft. wide. The total cost of the bridge was $6,300,000. It was formally opened with great pomp and ceremony by the Prince of Wales, during his visit to America in the sum- mer of 1860. The view of Montreal from the bridge should not be missed. The 148 HAXD-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. Water -Works, a mile or so above the city, are extremely interesting for their own sake, and for the delightful scenery in the vicinity. The old Government-House, in Jacques Cartier Square, and the Xelson Monument near by, are objects of interest, though the monument is in a rather dilapidated condition. The Mount Royal Cemetery is 2 m. from the city, on the N. slope of the mountain. From the high- road round its base, a bro^d avenue gradually ascends to this pleasant spot. The best views of Montreal and its neighborhood are obtained by taking the famous drive " Around the Mountain,'''' 9 m. long. ]S"o visitor to Montreal should fail to see the Lachine Rapids. They may be reached by carriage, but the most advantageous way of seeing them is to take the 7 a. m. train (from Bonaventure station) to La- chine, get on the steamer there, and return through the Eapids to Montreal, arriv- ing at 9 A. M. The "ice-shove," a most imposing spectacle, may be witnessed by those travel- ers who arrive at Montreal toward the beginning, of April. This strange phenome- non results from the crowding of the ice about a mile below the city, where the channel of the river is comparatively narrow ; there it is 'packed, ^nled, and frozen into a solid mass of twenty to thirty feet in thickness, which, when lifted by the rising waters above, and set in motion again by the whole hydraulic power of the gigantic stream, rushes onward until again impeded by the banks of the narrowing river. The lateral pressure it there exerts forces the Cordage up on the land, where it not unfrequently accumulates to the height of 50 ^eet. QUEBEC. (Quebec is reached from Montreal xiia Grand Trunk R iilway. Distance. 178 m. ; time, 8 lire. Also via Bteameronthe St. Lawrence River. Distance, 263 m. Fare, first class, including stateroom and meals, $3 ; second class, without meals. $1. The steamer is much prelerable in summer, as it en- ables the traveler to see the fine scenery of the river.) QUEBEC, the oldest, and, after Montreal, the most important city in British North America, is situated on the N. W. bank of the St. Lawrence Ei ver, at its conflu- euo. with the St. diaries, nearly 400 m. from the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The city is built on the northern extremity of an elevated tongue of land which forms the 1. bank of the St. Lawrence for several miles. Cape Diamond, so called from the numerous quartz crystals formerly found there, is the loftiest part of the headland, 333 ft. above the stream, and is crowned with the vast fortifications of the Citadel. These occupy about 40 acres, and are considered so impregnable that they have ob- tained for Quebec the appellation of the " Gibraltar of America." From the Cita- del a line of wall runs westward toward the cliffs overhanging the valley of the St. Charles, and is thence continued around the brow of the promontory till it connects once more with Cape Diamond near the Governor's Garden. This circuit is nearly 3 m. in extent, and is pierced by five gates, now dismantled. The walls and ram- parts outside of the Cita lei proper, though still mounted with cannon, are no longer kept in repair. The city is divided into the Upper and Lower Town, the ascent from the latter being by a very steep and winding street (Mountain St.) through Prescott Gate. The Upper Town comprises the walled city with tlie two suburbs of St. Louis and St. John, between the walls and the Plains of Abraham. The Lower Town is built around the base of the promontory, and constitutes the busi- ness quarter. A very large part of the city within the walls, or the Upper Town proper, is taken up with the buildings and grounds of great religious corporations, the Seminary and Laval University, the Ursulines and the Hotel Dieu, and the an- cient Jesuit college, founded in 1633 and occupied as a barracks after 1812. Over the remaining irregular surface, not covered by fortifications, are crowded the quaint mediaeval streets and dwellings, built generally of stone, two or three stories high, and roofed, like the public buildings, with shining tin. The suburbs of St. Louis and St. John stretch southward and westward along the plateau, and are constantly encroaching on the historic Plains of Abraham. They contain many beautiful pri- vate residences, and several large conventual establishments and churches. The Lower Town proper is the most ancient part of Quebec. Here, around the vener able church of Notre-Dame des Yictoires and the Champlain Market, are the QUEBEC. 149 priucipal wliarves, and steamboat and ferry landings. It is the busiest and most crowded mart of the city, and a conglomeration of irregular streets. Clustered around the base of the cliff, beneath tlie liuns of the 96 69 Fredericksburg. Ya 126 20 Freehold, Pa... 97 56 Fnlton.Ill 117 117 : Galesburg, III 117 52 Gaspee Point. R. 1 76 .52 Georgetown D. C 50 69 Goldsboro. N. C 130 130 Grafton, W. Ya 101 55 Granger. Utah 119 89 I Greenbush. N. Y 55 107 ! Green River Station. Wy 119 144 Greenwich, Conn 70 119 Gretna. La 144 53 Grosse He, Mich 82 117 Grosse Point. Mich 82 131 1 Guilford, Conn 74 69 Hamilton. Can 80 154 Hamilton. 98 100 I Hanover Junction. Ya 126 69 Harper's Ferry. Ya 99 35 Harrieburg, Pa 77,89 118 Hartford, Ct 72 89 ' Haverstraw Bay, N. Y 52 101 i Havre de Grace. Md 35 101 Ilornellsville, N. Y 83 84 Hudson. N. Y 51 52 Hudson River 53 120 lona Island. N. Y 52 1,30 Iowa City. Iowa 117 87 1 Iivington. N. Y 51 69 Jackson. Mich 80 m Jeffersonville. Ind 107, 109 52 , Jersey City, N. J 23 97 i Johnstown, Pa 77 117 Joliet, 111.. 110,117 106 ! Juniata Yalley, Pa 77 119 Kalamazoo. Mich 80 160 INDEX. PA(iK Lachine Rapids. Can 148 Lake Pontchartraiu, La 144 Lancaster, Pa 77 La Porte, Ind 86 Lawreucebur^, lud 107 Lexington, Mass 69 Little Chaudiere Falls, Can 154 Little Falls, NY 56 Lockport, N. Y 80 Logansport, Ind 88 London, 98 Louisville, Ky 107 Macon, Ga 137 Madison. Ind 107 Manchester. Pa 79 Mansfield, 89. 98 Martinsbiirg, W. Va 100 Massillon, O 89 Meadville, Pa 98 Milford, O 98 Milwaukee, Wis 96 Mishawaka, Ind 86 Mobile. Ala 137 Mohawk River, N. Y 56 Moline, III 117 Montgomery. Ala 137 Montmorenci Falls. Can 152 Montreal, Can 145 Mount Airy, Md 99 Mount Union Station. Pa 77 Mount Vernon, Va 50 Mystic, Conn 74 New Albany, Ind 110 Newark, Del 35 Newark, N. J 23 Newark, O 86 New Brunswick. N. J 23 Newburg. N. Y 52 New Haven, Conn 70 New Loudon, Conn 74 New Orleans. La 139 Newport, Pa 77 Newport, R. 1 60 New York City 5 Niagara Falls 5:>. SO North Bend, Ind IO9 North Platte, Neb 118 Norwalk, Ct 70 Nyack, N. Y .52 Oakland, Cal 120 Oberlin, O 86 Ogden, Utah 119 Omaha. Neb 117 Oneida, N. Y .56 Orangeville, O 98 Otisville, N. Y 88 Ottawa, Can 1.53 Ottawa, 111 117 Owego, N. Y 83 Parkersburg. W. Va 101 Pascagoula, La 139 Paterson, N. J 83 Pawtuxet. R. 1 76 Peekskill, N. Y 52 Petersburg, Va 130 Philadelphia, Pa 23 Piedmont, W. Va 100 Piermont, N. Y 51 Piqua, 88 Pittsburg, Pa 77 Plainfield, N. J 88 Plymouth. Ind 89 Point of Rocks, Md 99 Port Jervis, N. Y 83 Poughkeepsie, N. Y 52 Princeton, N. J 23 Promontory Point, Utah 119 Providence. R. 1 74 Put-in-Bay Islands 82 Quebec, Can 148 PAGE Quincy, Mass 60 Racine, Wis 96 Reading, Pa 89 Richmond, Va 127 itideau Falls, Can 154 Rochester, N. Y 56 Rock Island City. Ill 117 Rocky Point, R. 1 76 Rome, N. Y 56 Sacramento, Cal 120 Salamanca, N. Y 97 Salem. O 89 Salt Lake City, Utah 119 San Francisco. Cal 121 Saucelito, Cal 126 Savannah, Ga 135 Schenectady, Wy 55 Sherman, N. Y 119 Shohola, Pa 83 ! Sidney. Neb 118 ! Sing Sing, N. Y 52 Sir John's Run. W. Va • 100 Sloatsburff. N. Y 83 ' Somerville, N. J 88 I South Bend, Ind 86 i South Mountain, Md 99 Spriuirfield, 111 110 Springfield. O 98 Stamford, Conn 70 St. Anne Falls, Can 152 St. Catherine's, Can 80 Steubenville. O 86 St. Louis, Mo 110 Stockton, Cal 120 Stcnington , Conn 74 Stony Point, N. Y 52 Storm-King Mountain, N. Y 52 St. Remoux Rapids. Can 154 Suffcrn's Station, N. Y 83 Sugar Loaf Mountain. N. Y 52 ] Summit Station, Cal 120 Sumter, S. C 130 ! Suspension Bridi.re, N. Y 80 j Susquehanna, N. Y . 83 Syracuse. N. Y 56 ! Tappan, N. Y 51 Tappan Zee, N. Y 51 ; Tarrytown. N. Y 52 Taunton. Mass 60 Toano, Nev 119 Toledo. O 86 Toronto, Can 154 i Trent.m. N. J 23 , Troy. N. Y 55 1 Truckee, Cal 120 I Turner's Station, N. Y 83 Tyrone Citv, Pa 77 ' Union City; Ind 88 Urbana, d. 98 Utica. N. Y 56 Valparaiso. Ind 89 Verplanck's Point, .N. Y 52 Wadsworth, Nev 120 Warsaw . Ind 89 '. Washington, D. C 40 Washington Junction, Md ,. 99 Weber Canon. Utah 119 Weldon, N. C 130 Westerly. R.I 74 West Point. N. Y 52 Wethersfield, Conn 74 Williams Bridire, N. Y 70 Will's Mountain, Md 100 Wilmington, Del 35 Wilmington, N. C 130 Windsor, Can 80 Xenia, O 98 Yonkers, N. Y 51 Youghiogheny River, W. Va 100 BURNETTS COCOAINE S C!on)potir|d of CocoaAut Oil, &:d., FOR PROMOTING THE GROWTH AND PRESERVING THE BEAUTY OF THE HUMAN HAIR. A REMARKABLE CASE. '•East Middi.eboro', Mass.. / '"June 9, 1S(>4. \ "Messrs. Buenett & Co. '•When my daughter's hau- came oflf she had been afflicted "with neuralgia in her head for three years, and for two years after her head was as smooth as her face. ' " Through the recommendation of a friend she was induced to try j'our Coooaine, and the result was astonishing. She had not used half the con- tents of a bottle before her head was covered with fine young hair. In four months her hair has grown several inches in length, very thick, soft, and tine, and of a darker color than formerly. •' She still continues to use the Cocoaine, in connection with the Kalliston. and we have but little fear of her losing her hair. " With respect, Wm. S. Eddy.'" A single apphcation renders the hair (no matter how stiff and dry) soft and glossy for several days. It is conceded, by all who have used it, to be the best and cheapest hair-dressing in the world. It promotes the GEOWTH OF THE HAIR, and is entirely free from all irri- tating matter. BURNETT^S^I-OGNE, UNRIVALED IN RICHNESS AND DELICACY OF PERFUME. IN QUARTER AND HALF PINTS, PINTS, AND QUARTS. JVe call Special Attention to our Cologne List, Four Sizes, at Popular Prices, in Cork and Glass Stoppers, and Wicker Covering. NO OTHER COMPOUND Possesses the peculiar properties which so exact- Iv suit the various conditions of the human hair. It softens the hair when harsh and dry. It soothes the irritated scalp. It affords the richest lustre. It remains longest in effect. It prevents the hair from falling off. It promotes its healthy, vigorous growth. It is not greasy nw sticky. It leaves no disagreeable odor. "Continental Hotel, ) " Philadelphia, Pa., .lune 20, 1S6S. ) " Messrs. Joseph Burnett «fc Co. "Gentlemen: While traveling abroad last year, we took your Cologne with us, and, after testuig several of the best ' Gerin.m,' found none of them equaled yours. I know of many friends as emphatic in its favor as I am. " Yery truly j'ours, J. E. Kingsley.'" " St. Charles Hotel, ( •'New Orleans, Feb. 19, 1870. j '• Messrs. Joseph Burnett &, Co. " Gentlemen : I have the pleasure to ac- knowledge receipt of your very acceptable pres- ent. "I regard both the Toilet Companion and Co- logne as very agreeable and fragrant appendages to the toilet.' Yery truly yours, " Carlotta Patti." " Messrs. Joseph Burnett & Co. " Gentlemen : Thanks for the elegant pres- ent of your Toilet Preparations ; they are cer- tainly deserving my hearty recommendation. Your Cologne-water is delightful. " Yours very truly, "Theodore Eittkr. ' "Everett House. { "New York, March 18. 1871. > "Messrs. Joseph Burnett & Co. " Gentlemen : I have received your elegant souvenir containing specimens of your ' Cocoaine.' for the hair. "Florimel.' for the handkerchief, ' KalHston.' which has been recommended to me, your -Tooth- Wash,' and the -Cologne- Water.' I am delighted with the Cocoaine, and all of these articles I have used, and find them not only agreeable, but useful. "Yours trulv, Christine Nilsson." JOSEPH BURNETT k CO., Sole Proprietors, Boston, Mass. FOR SALE BY DRUGGISTS EVERYWHERE. Wmm HOTEL GHARLSSTOIff, S. C. 1. MiESil t PROPRIETORS. MOSELEY'S NEW HAVEN HOUSE, Fronting the Park and opposite Yale College, IS OWNED AND KEPT B¥ S. H. MOSELEY, Who for ten years was connected with, the femous Massasoit House, Sprins^field, Mass.. and for five years partner of the charming Brevoort House, New York. It is the most complete, comfortable, and home-like Hotel in the city, and one of the best to be found in this country. Mi*. Moseley also has the Eestaurant at the Railway Station, which is the best eating-place for passengers between New York and Boston. All express trains stop ten minutes at New Haven. r^^^SSJS^i^^: THE MASSASOIT HOUSE, SPRINGFIELD, MASS., M. & E. S. CUAPIN, JPROPRIETORS, Opposite the Railway Station, has won, during the thu-ty years of its successful career, a reputation for its table not surpassed by any Hotel in this country. Recent improvements and chansres make this popular House more desirable than ever for trav- elers, and a most comfortable home for families journeying from the cities to the mountains. 'A Nearer Approxiniaiioii to lUe REAL SWAN QUILL man AnylMng Hiilierto Invented" THE CONSTANTLY INCREASING SALE OF THE DOUBLE ELASTIC The Alauul'actory of the Celebrated bpeui.eri.in Pens, Biniiinghani, Kngland. Is owing- to their superior writing qualities, as attested by the editorial indorseiuents of over 1,000 papei-s, and by merchants, lawyers, and bankers, without number. They are all made of the best steel," in the best manner, by the best workmen in Europe. FOR SALE BY ALL DEALERS. *^*To accommodate those who may wish to try these pens, we will send a Card, containing one each of the 15 Numbers, by mail, on receipt of 25 cents. iriSOJY, BLAKEMAM, TAYLOR cj- CO., 138 & 140 Grand Street, Kew York. FOR MAKING BISCUIT, A FOOD FOR THE DIABETIC AND DYSPEPTIC. Prepared Dy JOHN W. SHEDDEN. Pharmacist, 1275 Broadway, cor. 2,Ath St., and No. 363 Boivery, cor. ^th St., N'. V. The flour is put up in 10 lb. tin cases, at $5.00 ; and in packets, at 50 cents, or $5.00 per dozen. T3IE XOI^IC APERIEIVX, a gentle laxative and tonic, admirably adapted for the relief of persons of constipated habit, and a safe and efficient medi- cine for children and delicate females. 50 cents per bottle. For Sale by John W. Shedden, Pharmacist, New Yjrk. THE ST. REOIS or ABASSENA SPKING ^VATERS. These waters have been found of singular efficacy as a remedial agent, in Affections of the Kidneys and Liver, Diseases of the Skin, Ophthalmia, Rheumatism, &c. Gen- eral Depot, Broad\vay, corner 34th St., New York. Pd o w o cc o w o w « fa ■t» 4) fa a o fa o H Hi OS in O o o 09 64 THE ARLINGTON," WASHINGTON, D. C. Biii pwlj^ 'T Bt'M > y T. ROESSLE & SON, Proprietors. Also of the FORT WILLIAM HENRY HOTEL, Lake George, New York. ^^^'J^^^^-^^M^^i^^^m PARTICULARLY DESIRABLE FOR WMMEmMmm AND Summer Tourists. ^AMERICAN, 59 BOSTo:i>sr. Conveniently located for Business or Pleasure. Suites, with Bath-rooms and Closets adjoining, Passenger Elevator, &e. Prices reduced to $3.00, $3.50, and $4.00 per day. i MALTBY HOUSE, BALTIMORE, MD., Has been recently remodeled and enlarged, and possesses all the modern improve- ments requisite for the comfort of the traveling public. The Maltby is the only Hotel conducted on the COMBINED AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN PLANS. Having connected with it the most extensive RESTAURANT in the city, it offers its patrons the advantage of either, as they may select, at lower piices than corresponding accommodations can be had else- where in the city. THE ROOMS ARE OF GOOD SIZE AND WELL VENTILATED, WITH AMPLE ACCOMMODATIONS FOR 350 GUESTS. MATE^, $2,50 and $3,00 PER DAY, r^B^^a n^w^^, HAEVET D. PAEKER, JOHN F. MILLS. SCHOOL ST., BOSTON. ON THE EUROPEAN PLAN. ^^MFJ¥ M&WBM, R. J. ALLYN, PROPRIETOR, HARTFORD, CONN. THE STURTEVANT HOUSE, IN BROADWAY, . FOR ROOM AND BOARD, $4.00 PER DAY. The Hotel is in the centre of the city, occupying the block between 28th and 29th Streets, and extending back one hundred and seventy-six feet on 29th Street. To its unsurpassed accommodations for gentleraen, it has recently added One Hundred and Five Suits of Large Family-Rooms, possessing every desirable advantage for ladies and children. 31i_ Sz Gr- S. IjEI_..A.ISriD, Propbietoes. HENRY MAURER, {Late of the Firm of Maurer & Weber,) PROPRIETOR OF THE EXCELSIOR FIRE BRICK UNO CLM RETORT WORKS, WORKS: PERTH AMBOY, N. J., Office and Depot, 418, 420 & 422 E. 23d St., bet. First Ave. and Avenue A, New York, MAXUPACTURER OP FIRE-BRICKS, BLOCKS, AND TILES, For RelUng-MIUs, Gas- Works, Bhist-Funiaoes, Founderies, Lime-Kilns, Glass- Works, Grate-Fixtures, etc. Blocks and Tiles, of any size or shape. Made to Order at the shortest notice, and of superior quality. SOLE MANITFACTURER OF HOLLOW BRICK AND ROOFING TILE, under P. HERVIER'S PATENT, Used throughout Europe. Special attention Is invited to the Cheapxess, Durability, and Extra Protection- against Fire afforded by ROOFING TILE for use on Depots, Docks, Gas-Works, and Warehouses. My factory (formerly owned by Joseph Forbes, Esq.) is located at Perth Amboy, X. J., within ft few" hundred feet of tide-water, affording unequaled lacilitiea for shipping, and is in the imme- diate vicinity of the finest chiy-beds in the country. SUPERIOR FIRE CLAY BY THE TOy OR CARGO. Send for Price- List. APPLETONS' GUIDE-BOOKS. APPLETONS' RAILWAY AND STEAM NAVIGATION GUIDE. Published semi-monthly, under the supervision of the Railway Companies, containing Time-Tables of all the Railways in the United States and Canada, One Hundred Railway Maps, representing the principal Railways of the country West, South, North, and East, in connection with a Time-table of each line. Time-tables corrected in each edition to date. Square 16mo. Paper. Price, 25 cents. APPLETONS' HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN TRAVEL.— M^es^ern Tour. Including Eighteen Through-Routes to the West and Far West, Tours of the Great Lakes and Rivers, and all Local Routes of the Western States. Being a Com- plete Guide to the Rocky Mountains, Yosemite Valley, the Yellowstone, Sierra Ne- vada, etc., and other Famous Localities; with tull Descriptive Sketches of the Lakes, Waterfalls, Mountains, and all Places and Objects of Interest within the District named. With Maps and Diagrams. 12mo. Cloth, flexible. Price, $2.00. APPLETONS' HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN TRAVEL.— iVW^A^m and Eastern Tour. Including the District of New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Massachusetts, Maine. New Hampshire, Vermont, and the British Dominions, etc. ; with full Descriptive Sketches of the Lakes, Waterfalls, Mountains, Watering- Places, and all scenes and objects of importance and interest within the District named. With Maps; and various Skeleton Tours, arranged as Sugges- tions and Guides to the Traveler. 1 vol., 12mo. Flexible cloth. Price, $2.00. APPLETONS' HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN TRAVEL.— >Sow^Afm Tcmr. Being a Guide through Maryland, District of Columbia, Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Florida, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Texas, Arkansas, Tennessee, and Kentucky. With Descriptive Sketches of the Battle -Fields, Mountains, Rivers, Lakes, Watering-Places, Summer Resorts, and all scenes and objects of im- portance and interest. With Maps of the leading Routes of Travel, and of the Principal Cities. 1 vol., 12mo. Flexible cloth. Price, $2.00. APPLETONS' EUROPEAN GUIDE-BOOK. Including England, Scot- land, and Ireland, France, Belgium, Holland, Northern and Southern Germany, Swit- zerland, Italy, Spain and Portugal, Russia, Denmark, Norway and Sweden. Containing a Map of Europe, and Nine other Maps, with Plans of 20 of the Principal Cities, and more than 120 Engravings. 1 vol., thick 12mo, morocco, tuck, gill edges. Price, $6-0©. NEW YORK ILLUSTRATED. Containing numerous Views of Street- Scenes, Public Buildings, Parks, Suburbs, etc., of the Empire City. The most fully- illustrated and elegant brochure of the city ever published; contains Maps, and a Stranger's Guide to Public Places; valuable as a guide, and choice as a memorial of the city. Printed on toned paper, quarto. Price, paper cover, 50 cents ; cloth, $1.00. THE HUDSON RIVER. A Guide for Tourists. With 60 Illustrations by J. D. Woodward. 8vo. Paper covers. Price, 50 cents. Uniform in size with ''^ New- York Illustrated." Mr. Woodward's drawings have been remarkably successful, and make the volume one of the handsomest guide-books ever issued. APPLETONS' ILLUSTRATED HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN CITIES. With Through-Routes of Travel, and Railway Maps. 1 vol. Paper covers, price, 50 cents ; in cloth, 75 cents. APPLETONS' ILLUSTRATED HAND-BOOK OF SUMMER RESORTS. Uniform with "Hand-Book of Cities." With Maps. 1 vol. Paper. 50 cents. {In press.) APPLETONS' ILLUSTRATED HAND-BOOK OF WINTER RE- SORTS. Uniform with " Hand-Book of Summer Resorts." Paper cover, 50 cents. (In ^"^""'■^ D. APPLETON & CO., PulHsliers, New York. 1776. 1876. TRADE I N \ L I i '""''■ FIRE-WORKS, CENTENNIAL CELEBRATIONS, PUBLIC AND PRIVATE DISPLAYS, Most Eeliatile, Brilliant, and Safest. ALSO PLAGS, LANTERNS, BALLOONS, &c. THE UNEXCELLED FIRE-WORKS CO., 112 Chambers St., Ne^v York. The most complete and elegantly Illusti^ated Work on Europe ever produced. PICTURESQUE EUEOPE: A DELINEATION BY PEN AND PENCIL OF The Mountains, Rivers, Lakes, Shores, Forests, and. other Natural Features, and. the Ancient Ruins, Cathedrals, Castles, Palaces, Old. Structures, and. other Picturesque and. Historical Places of GREAT BRITAIN AND THE CONTINENT. Edited by BAYARD TAYLOR. This truly superb work, which has now been for several years in active preparation, will consist of a complete description and elaborate pictorial illus^t ration of the greater part of the European Continent. It will portray the great mountain-ranges, the superb lakes, the beautiful valleys, the grand forests, the cascades, the great rivers, with their fascinating historical associations, and with these the temples and ruins of ancient Greece and Rome, the grand Gothic cathedrals, the quaint old churches, the splendid palaces, the grim old castles, the strange towns, and other places and objects of note, it being the purpose of the publishers to illustrate the varied picturesque and historic scenes in that storied land with a fullness and artistic effect beyond anything hitherto attempted. THE ENGRAVINGS O? THIS WORK ARE ALL Ni.W, having been executed from sketches by American and English artists, who for two years past have been traveling over every part of Europe, in order to secure accurate and the latest views of picturesque places. No labor and no cost have been spared to render the illustrations in every particular not only entirely trustworthy but valuable for their artistic excellence. To those who have visited Europe it will be a lasting pleasure, as a souvenir of the places they have seen; to others it will, in its minute and thorough delineation by artist and writer, afford an idea of the great historic ground of the Old World, scarcely less vivid than that of actual personal observation. The engravings will consist of steel and wood. The steel plates will be printed on heavy, toned, plate-paper; the wood illustrations will be of the finest character, and abundantly in- terspersed through the text, which will be printed on heavy, extra-calendered, toned paper. In all particulars of manufacture, care will be taken to secure a truly elegant and sumptuous work. PiCTTTBESQUE EcTROPE is uniform with and is designed to form a companion work to PICTURESdUE A.IIEltlCA. CONDITIONS OF PUBLICATION. This work will be published by subscription, in parts, at Fifty Cents each, payable on delivery ; the carrier not being allowed to receive money in advance, or to give credit. Each part will contain one highly-finished engraving on steel, and a large number of finely-executed woodcuts. The work will probably be completed in Sixty Parts; it will positively not exceed Sixty- six Parts; the size imperial quarto. It will be printed on heavy, toned, highly-calendered paper, made expressly for this work, in the best manner known to the art. Subscriptions received only for the entire work. D. APPLETON & CO., PubHshers, 549 & 551 Broadway, K Y. HONEST PUSH In our January nuinber we alluded to the genuine enterprise of Dr. Dundas Dick, the gentleman who coats fluid medicines with a film of gelatine, so that they shall not oflfend the palate. Our remarks were merely by way of comment upon an article in the iV. Y. Reporter. A Christian friend of ours, a druggist by profession, calls attention to our article and reminds us that, in our well-intentioned comments on Dr. Dick's business habits, we omitted one very essential point — his sterling honesty. Our friend thinks that, ordinarily, too much credit is given to energy and business activity, and too little to those weightier qualities which go to make up the substan- tial character — integrity and scrupulous fair-dealing. He says that the example to be placed before men is not that of success achieved by cunning, or by push, or by notoriety, but that of wealth accumulated or influence gained by righteousness — that is, by right-doing. Our friend is correct, and we never held to any other view. When we said that Dr. Dick's success, hke the success of Mr. A. T. Stewart, resulted largely from his ability to do, better than any of his many employes can do, all the multifarious duties of his factory, we did not mean to indicate that his intimate practical acquaintance with the details of his vast business could be considered as taking the place of in- tegrity. Knowledge cannot compensate for lack of honesty. The two must go hand in hand, or failure will come sooner or later. A good lady, who knew Mr. Stewart when he had only one clerk, told us a few days ago that he never allowed that clerk or any of the many thousands since and now in his employ, to recommend goods offered for sale. His plan has always been to exhibit the articles and let them do their own talking. So with Dr. Dick. Physicians know that they can prescribe his pure, protected remedies with the certainty that the result anticipated will follow their use. They are just what they purport to be, nothing more, nothing less. It is as if he were to seal up pure oils and balsams and terebinthinates in transparent glass, so far as purity is concerned. The only difference is, that the glass is soluble and nutritious, being made of transparent gelatine. Dr. Dick is not a manufacturer of " patent medicines.'' His tasteless remedies are not secret or proprietary nostrums, but are strictly " officinal ; " that is, author- ized medicines of the United States Dispensatory. It is only in selecting pure, fresh drugs, and protecting them well, rapidly, and elegantly, that Dr. Dick's great skill is shown. The drugs thus inclosed are potent, active, powerful, and are usually or- dered by physicians. Druggists of our acquaintance testify that more than three- fourths of all Dr. Dick's goods sold are called for by written prescriptions. "When thus ordered, the druggist removes the outer wrapper, and only the magic letters ''D. D. & Co." denote the maker's name. The products of no chemist's laboratory stand higher than his. He has earned his popularity by fair-dealing, and, by the mtegrity of his methods and the purity of his medicines, placed himself on the plane occupied by Dr. Squibb of Brooklyn, whose manufactured drugs stand at the head. If knowledge, energy, and good taste have done much of this, integrity has done even more. Druggists and doctors know that Dick's tasteless medicines can be relied upon. In the one word — faith- fulness — we have the causes of his vast success clearly summed up. — HalVs Journal of Health, March, 1876. FOR 1876. APPLETONS' JOURNAL, A HOUSEHOLD WEEKLY MAGAZINE, Devoted to Popular Literature, and all Matters of Taste and Culture. Appletons' Journal appears in new type and with other mechanical improve- ments, making it the handsomest weekly literary journal in the country. Appletons' Journal aims to be comprehensive, including in its plan all branches of literature, and treating all subjects of interest to intelligent readers ; it designs to be elevated in taste and pure in tone ; it gives in quantity fully twenty-five per cent, more than the largest of the Monthly Magazines, while in quality its literature is of the highest class. PRICE, $4.00 PER ANNUM; lO CENTS PER NUMBER. SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT. The undersigned have procured, exclusively for subscribers to Appletons' Jour- nal, a splendid steel engraving of " Charles Dickens in his Study,'' which is offered, under special terms, to every subscriber — in advance — to the Journal for 1876. This steel engraving is in line and stipple. It is not a fancy picture, but an act- ual representation of Charles Dickens's study at Gadshill, while the portrait of the distinguished author is strikingly faithful. The size of the plate is 20 x 14, printed on heavy plate-paper 24 x 30, making a large and handsome engraving for the parlor or hbrary wall. The execution of the plate is of a superior order. The ordinary price of a steel engraving of this character in the print-shops would not be less than^v^, mid perhaps six dollars. It is offered exclusively to subscribers, in addition to the Journal for one year, for $5.00 — that is, for |1.00 additional, each yearly advance subscriber to the Journal for 1876 may receive a superb engraving worth fully five times the amount. This engraving is entirely new. It has never been for sale in the print-shops, and cannot be obtained except in connection with Appletons' Journal upon the terms and conditions given above. It will be mailed to subscribers postage prepaid. D. APPLETON & CO., 549 & 551 BROADWAY, N. Y. THE ART JOURNAL. AN INTERNATIONAL GALLERY OF ENGRAVINGS, By Distinfriiisbed Artists of Europe and America. WITH ILLUSTRATED PAPERS IN THE VARIOUS BRANCHES OF ART. The Art Journal is a monthly publication, specially devoted to the world of Art — Painting, Sculpture, Architecture, Decoration, Engraving, Etching, Enameling, and Designing in all its branches — having in view the double purpose of supplying a complete illustrated record of progress in the Arts, and of affording a means for the cultivation of Art-taste among the people. Each num- ber is richly and abundantly illustrated on both steel and wood. It contains the Steel Plates and Il- lustrations of the London Art Journal; a publication of world-wide fame (the exclusive right of which, for Canada and the United States, has been purchased by the publishers) ; with extensive additiofts devoted principally to A vierican A rt and A merican topics. Among the features are the following : I. Tile Sonxes of America. The Stately Homes of England have formed a very in- teresting Jeainre of the London Art Journal y^r many years ; as a compatiioti to this series, ive are giving views and descriptions of the Homes of A merica, including the ^^ stately" mansions of the more wealthy, and soitie of the picttiresqtte residences of the People, These views are from drawings made for the purpose by competent artists. II. The Far West ; Colorado and the Pacific Railway. A superbly illus- trated jourfiey throtigh Colorado, and over the Pacific Railway, derived frotn sketches made last summer by Mr, J. D. Woodward, and engraved zn the very best manner. HI. American Artists and their Works. The series of articles in the volume for 1S75, on American artists, accompanied by exantples of tJieir works, were very popular,, and will be continued during the eiisuing year. The engravings in this series afford some of the best examples of wood-cutting ever given to the public. TV. Household Art. By Charles Wyllis Elliott. This valuable series of illus- trated papers on domestic art will be continued until the subject is filly covered, V. American Art-lttanufactlires. Illustrations of interesting productions in the practical a?-ts are given, VI. New American Churches and American Architecture. We are pre- paring papers, with viezvs of some of the finest examples of church architecture, and also of pictitresque features in our public and domestic buildings. "VTI. The French Painters and their Works. The American addenda to the Art Journal contain examples of French Art, executed in a superior manner, which are not given in the London issue. VIII. British Artists and their Works. This interesting feature will be continued. IX. Art in Japan, by Sir Rutherford Alcock ; Art in India, by Dr. Hunter; and Kx^ in Palestine, by M. E, Rogers. Papers on these subjects will occasion- ally appear. X. British Art-Manufactures. XI. Illustrations of Art-Objects in the Centennial Exhibition. We shall illustrate selections of the more striking and noteworthy objects of an A rt-character displayed at the Exhibition. XII. The Stately Homes of Eng-land. By^. C. Hall. This , popular series of pa- pers, descriptive of famous old places in England, is continued. XIII. Illustrated Papers on various Productions in Art, and upon Art-themes of popular interest. XrV. Original Papers from Paris and Rome, on A rt-matters in these capitals. The Steel Illustrations will continue to justify the reputation of the Art Journal. Each num- ber contains Three Steel Plates, in many instances a single plate being worth much more than the entire price of the number. Published monthly. Price, seventy-five cents per number, or nine dollars per annum. SOLD ONLY BY SUBSCRIPTION, either by yearly subscription, delivered through the post, pre- paid, or payable monthly on deliveiy by the carrier. Subscriptions received bv the Publishers, or their Agents. Agencies: 22 Hawley St., Boston; 922 Chestnut St., Philadelphia; 22 Post-Office Avenue, Baltimore; 100 State St., Albany; 42 State St., Rochester; 103 State St., Chicago; 30 W. 4th St., Cincinnati; 305 Locust St., St. Louis; 20 St. Charles St, New Orleans; 230 Sutter St., San Francisco. D. APPLETON & CO., Publishers, 549 & 551 Broadway, New York. The Pennsylvania Railroad IS THE GKEAT TEUNK LINE AND MAIL EOUTE OP THE UNITED STATES. IT TKAVERSES THE MOST INTERESTING POETIONS OF THE NORTH AMERICAN CONTINENT, AND UNITES BY UNBROKEN TRACKS ALL THE PRINCIPAL CITIES ON THE ATLANTIC COAST, ON THE GREAT LAKES, AND IN THE MISSIS- SIPPI VALLEY. THROTTaH TRAIITS Are run over its lines between NEW YORK, PHILADELPHIA, BALTIMORE, and WASHINGTON in the East, and BUFFALO, ROCHESTER, ERIE, CLEVE- LAND, DETROIT, CHICAGO, ST. LOUIS, CINCINNATI, and LOUISVILLE, in the North, West, and Southwest. The Pennsylvania Railroad IS THE BEST-OONSTEUOTED EAILWAY ON THE AMEEIOAN CONTINENT. Its main Imes are laid with a double track of Steel Rails, secured on Oak Ties imbedded iu broken-stone ballast, which renders them impervious to the action of frosts or freshets, and prevents annoyance from dust. All Bridges are of Iron or Stone, constructed on the best-known principles for safety and durability. The Pennsylvania Railroad EUNS THE MOST PEEFEOT EOLLING-STOOK IN THE WOELD. Its Engines are models of mechanical excellence, and its Passenger-Cars are mi- equaled for comfort, elegance, and strength. Superior Hotels and Eating-Houses are provided at all essential points, which, from their excellence of management and reasonable charges, have become the model establishments of their kind. The Pennsylvania Railroad ENFOEOES UPON ALL ITS EMPLOYES STEIOT OOUETESY AND POLITENESS In their intercourse with the Public, and uses every eftbrt to secure the comfort and contribute to the enjoyment of its patrons. APPI.ETOIVS!' American Cyclopedia NEW REVISED EDITION. Entirely rewritten by the ablest writers on every subject. Printed from, new type, and illustrated with. Several Thousand En&raving-s and Maps. The work originally published under the title of The New American Cyclopedia was connpleted in 1863, since which time the wide circulation which it has attained in all parts of the United States, and the signal developments which have taken place in every branch of science, literature, and art, have induced the editors and publishers to submit it to an exact and thorough revision, and to issue a new edition entitled The American Cyclopedia. In preparing the present edition for the press, it has accordingly been the aim of the editors to bring down the information to the latest possible dates, and to fur- nish an accurate account of the most recent discoveries in science, of every fresh production in literature, and of the newest inventions in the practical arts, as well as to give a succinct and original record of the progress of political and historical events. The illustrations, which are inti'oduced for the first time in the present edition, have been added not for the sake of pictorial efifect, but to give greater lucidity and force to the explanations in the text. They embrace all branches of science and of natural history, and depict the most famous and remarkable features of scenery, architecture, and art, as well as the various processes of mechanics and manufact- ures. Although intended for instruction rather than embellishment, no pains have been spared to insure their artistic excellence; the cost of their execution is enor- mous, and it is believed they will find a welcome reception as an admirable feature of the Cyclopedia, and worthy of its high character. This work is sold to Subscribers only, payable on delivery of each volume. It will be completed in sixteen large octavo volumes, each containing about eight bun- dred pages, fully illustrated with several thousand Wood Engravings, and with numerous colored Lithographic Maps. PRICE AND STYLE OF BINDING. In Extra Cloth, - - - per vol., $5 00 In Library Leather, - - " 6 00 In Half Turkey Morocco, - " 7 00 In Half Russia, extra gilt, - per vol., $8 00 In Full Morocco, antique, gilt edges, " 10 00 In Full Russia, - - - " 10 00 %* Specimen pages of The American Cyclopedia, showing type, illustrations, etc., will be sent gratis, on application. D. APPLETON & CO., Publishers, 549 & 551 Broadway, New York. SELTZER THE GREAT APERIENT. SELTZER TARRANT'S ^|>^^^$^ttt ^tltut For THIRTY YEARS has received the favoraWe recom- mendation of the Public, and been Dsel aM Prescrilieil liy tlie First Physicians in tie Land AS THE BUST BE3IEDY KNOWN Sick Headache, Xervons Headache, Dyspepsia, Sonr Stomach, Bilious Headache, Dizziness, CostiTeness, Loss of Appetite, Goat, Indigestion, Torpidity of the Liyer, Gravel, Rlieumatic Affections, Piles, Heartburn, Sea- Sickness, Bilions Attacks, Fevers, &c., &c. For Travelers by Sea and Land, for Females in Delicate Health, for Persons of Sedentary Habits, for Physicians in charge of Hospitals, for Soldiers, for Sailors, for Masters of Vessels, especially all going to Hot Climates, the SELTZER APERLENT IS AN INVALUABLE COMPANION SUFFERERS FROM LATE SUPPERS, SUFFERERS FROM ABUSE OF LIQUORS, SUFFERERS FROM EXCESSES OF ANY KIND, WILL FIND IN THE SELTZER APERIENT A COOLING, REFRESHING, AND INVIGORATING DRAUGHT. It is in the form of a Powder, carefully put up in bottles, to keep in any climate, and merely requires water poured upon it to produce a delightful effervescent beverage. SELTZER MANUFACTURED ONLY BY TARRANT & CO,, 278 GREENV7ICH ST., | Cor. Warren, New York, And For Sale by Druggists Generally. ^m(p. SELTZER CA LIFORN IA! Tl CHU & iSTHWETEi BAILWAY Embraces under one management the Great Trunk Railway Lines of the Wrst and Xorth- tvest, and, with its numerous branches and connections, forms the Shortest and Quickest Hoiite between CHICAGO and all 2>oinfs in Illinois, Wisconsin, Worth- em Michif/an, Minnesota, Iowa, Nebraska, CALIFORNIA, and Western Territories. San Francisco, Denver. Minneapolis. Winona, Tshpemingr, Stevens Point, Sacramento, Omaha, Cedar Kapids, St. raul, Negauaee, Oshkosh, Ogden, Council Bluflfs, Dubuque. Duluth. Escanaba. Madison, Salt Lake Citv, Yankton. La Crosse, Marquette, Green Bay, Milwaukee, Cheyenne, Sioux City, Pra. du Chien, L'Anse, Menasha, Are all on the line of this great road, or are reached by this route with less changes of cars than by any other On the arrival of the trains from the East or South, the trains of the Chicago and Northwestern Eailway LEAVE CHICAGO as follows: For Sparta and Winona, and points in Minnesota, One Through Train daily, with Pullman Sleepers to Winona. For Dubuque , via Freeport.Two Through Trains dail\', with Pullman Cars on night trains. For ])uhuque and L,a Crosse, via Clinton, Two Through Trains daily, with Pull- man Cars on night train to McGregor, Iowa. For Sioux City and Yaiihton, Two Trains daily. PuUman Cars to Missouri Yalley Junction. For Lake Geneva, Four Trains daily. For Rockford, Sterling, Kenosha. fTanesville, and other points, you can have from two to ten trains daily. For Council Blujfs, Omaha, and California, Two Through Trains daily, with Pullman Palace Driwing-Room and Sleeping Cars through to Council Blutfs. For St. Paul and Minneapolis. Two Through Trains daily, with Pullman Palace Cars attached on both trains. For Green Bay and Lake Superior, Two Trains daily, ^vith Pullman Palace Cars at- tached, and running through to Marquette. For Milivaukee, Four Through Trains daily, Pullman Cars on night trains, Paeloe Chair Cars on day trains. All trains on the Michigan Central, Pittsburgh and Fort Wayne, Lake Shore and Michigan South- ern, and Baltimore and Ohio Railroads, make connection with this popular route for all points West, North, and Northwest. All Express trains on this route are equipped with WESTiNGnousE Patent Air Brakes and Mil- ler's Safety Platform and Couplers— the most perfect protection against accidents known. This popular route is unsurpassed for speed, comtort, and safety. The smooth, well-ballasted, and perfect track of steel rails, the celebrated Fulhnan Falace Sleejring-Cars, the perfect telegraph system of moving trains, the regularity with which they run, the admirable arrangement for running through-cars tVom Chicago to all j.oints West, North, and Northwest, secure to passen- gers all the COMFORTS in modern railway traveling. THF FULLMAX DRAWIXG-ROOM AND SZEEPIXG CARS, such as run on this popular route, are so constructed as to combine the convenience and elegance of a private parlor by day, and the comforts of a well-furnished bedchamber by night— clean bedding, thick hair mattresses, thorough ventilation, etc. Conductors and porters accompany each car to provide for the wants of passengers. This is the only line running- these cars between Chicago and St. Paul, or Chicag-o and Milwaukee. At Omaha our sleepers connect vvith the overland sleepers on the Union Pacific Raih-oad for aU points west of the Missouri River. Ask any ticket agent to show you its maps and time cards. All ticket agents can seU you through tickets bv this route. , ^^ «--. i-, i. New York Office, 41.5 Broadway: Boston Office, 5 State Street; Omaha Office, 2o:3 Farnham Street; San Francisco Office, 121 Montgomerv Street ; Chicago Ticket Offices : &2 Clark Street, un- der Sherman House; corner Canal and Madison Streets; Kinzie Street Depot, corner West Kmzie and Canal Streets; Wells Street Depot, corner Wells and Kinzie Streets. For rates or information not attainable from yoar home ticket agents, apply to W. H. STENNETT, MARVIN HUCHITT, Gen. Sup't, Chicago. Gen. Pass. Agent, Chicago. BELTE AND PACKIIG COIIPANI, The oldest and largest manufacturers in the United States of VULCANIZED RUBBER FABRICS, IN EVERT FOEM, COMPEISING MACHINE BELTING with smooth metallic rubber surface. STEAM PACKING in every form and variety. LEADING AND SUCTION HOSE, of any size or strength. PATENT " SMOOTH BORE " RUBBER SUCTION HOSE. <« TEST " HOSE.— This extra quality of Hose is made expressly for Steam Fire-Engine use, and will stand a pressure of 400 lbs, per square inch. ANTISEPTIC lilNEN HOSE, a cheap and durable Hose for mill and factory purposes. ANTISEPTIC RUBBER-LINED LINEN HOSE, the lightest Hose man- nfactured for use on Hand or Steam Fire-Engines. Will stand a pressure of 300 lbs. per square inch. CAR SPRINGS of a superior quality, and of all the various sizes used. SOLID EMERY VULCANITE WHEELS for grinding and polishing met- als — the ORIGINAL Solid Emery Wheel, of which all other kinds are imitations and greatly inferior. CAUTION. Our name is stamped in full on nil our best Standard Beltingf Backing, and Hose. Buy that only. The best is the cheapest, WAREHOUSE, 37 & 38 PARK ROW, NEW YORK. JOHN H. CHEEVER, Treasurer. Price-lists and further information may be obtained by mail or otherwise on ap- plication. BROWN BROTHERS & CO., 59 WALL STREET, NEVV^ YORK. BiMiM "if l^ill43i#l ON GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND. COMIEEGIAL Ai TKAffiLlHG CEEDITS ISSUED, AVAILABLE IN AHY PART OF THE WORLD. TELEGRAPHIC TRANSFERS OF MONEY MADE TO AND FROM LONDON AND LIVERPOOL. I MORTON, BLISS & CO., 3 BI^O.A.r> SXIR.EET. CIRCULAR NOTES CIRCULAR LETTERS OF CREDIT, FOR TRAVELERS. AVAIIABLE IN AIL PARTS OF THE WORLD. iBmtrilml ireills umi Iratii Morton, Rose & Co., London, The Bank of Scotland and Branches, The Provisional Bank of Ireland and Branches, JOHN MUNROE & CO., FOREIGN BANKERS, No. 8 Wall Street, NEW YORK, No. 4 Post-Office Square, BOSTON, FURNISH EXCHANGK FOR COMMERCIAL AND TRAVELING PURPOSES, ox PARIS, LONDON, BERLIN, AND VIENNA. . cjlblje transfers on farts. gir:ular notes and traveling credits, IX POUNDS STERLING AND IN FRANCS, ISSUED FOR CASH, OR ON SATISFACTORY GUARANTEE OF REPAY- MENT. HOUSE IN PARIS: M^ITBOi: U CO. BY WHOM ACCOUNTS WITH AMERICAN BANKS AND BANKERS ARE OPENED, ON FAVORABLE TER^IS. DREXEL & CO., Bankers, 34 South Third Street, Philadelphia, ' DREXEL, MORGAN k CO,, DREXEL, HARJES & CO., Broad and Wall Streets, 31 Boulevard Haussmann, NEW YORK, PARIS, ISSUE Commercial and Travelers' Letters of Credit and Bills of Exchange on all parts of Europe, Negotiate State, Municipal, and R. R. Securities. BUY AND SELL GOVERNMENT BONDS STOCKS AND &OLD, TRANSACT A GENEEAL BANKING BUSINESS. REVERE HOUSE, BOWDOIN SQUARE, BOSTON. A new and improved Passenger Elevator, with other recent improvements, renders the Revere House one of the most perfect Hotels in the world. TREMONT HOUSE, COR. TREWIONT AND BEACON STS. The old "Tremont"' is in perfect appointment, and offers unsurpassed accommodation to the traveling public. THE ABOVE SOTELS ARE UNDER ONE MANAGEMENT. CHAPIN, GURNEY & CO., Proprietors. The Handsomest Illuslratcd IWrrk ever produced in I his country. Picturesque America; OR, THE LAND Jf7: LIVE LN. EPITEn BY WILLIAM CULLEN BRYANT. A Pictorial Delineation o." the Mountains, Rivers, Lakes, Forests, Water-falls, Shores, Canyons, Valleys, Cities, and other Picturesque Features of our Country. Tlic j)ul»li:2»dl> ^ i> ^ 'S>S3L^ ^-^ ' ^ ^ ~r> ^ '-C ^ ~» "^ ^"^ ^ "~" ,§ggj> .1^ ■=s ?^ J >^> ^ ?^^ », 5 ^gg> ^_^ J ?^ ?^ ~^ ► ^ ?S£^ "^^ '".3 > '^ l^^ ^. -> }f3t> — !^~'' 7^3 * -^^-^ ~ ^ TSi3^ ■ -^ m^^ ::^> - ^ s.-j l»^ ->^lD^5-._-^ fr^^ ^ ^ T« 5> ^^ ^ >:3S^i», ,3 m^ :»r ^^ >> -- __^ - ^ -.spfc "IKU ji^^^^r^J* . ^ -"s»^«. i ^ "^-^ "t; ;m^#- ?i 1 Jt^ oT3f> ■->^v^^^^^^L ^ ^ ^ 1^ ^5:3i> ^\^'-< ,^; ^ ■ ,"^ ► ^ ^'Ag3> S^ k "^ ■5;y>:>>S» ■ -^ 3^o;2^ ^^ W "3^*^J3s> ^ ^ 3> :2> ^5^ ^ ^ • ^^i --^- "1^ ^ ^ 1> ^^^ \^^ ^ ''^5>^5e * --> > ^^. 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