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How TO Make Candy 
 
^^■ 
 
 
 xX^ 
 
 Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1875, by 
 
 NATHAN F. PECK, 
 In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 
 
In offering this volume to the public ^ the publish- 
 ers beg briefly to state that it is not a compilation 
 of receipts and directions from unreliable sources^ 
 but an entirely new work, written by a gentleman 
 thoroughly proficient in the art of which he treats, 
 assisted in the preparation of the paragraphs relat' 
 ing to flavors, fruit syrups, and medicated candies, 
 by a practical pharmacist of large experience. The 
 object which has continually been kept in view, has 
 been to present a series of reliable formulas, and 
 instructions for the manufacture of those kinds of 
 confectionery which are in greatest demand, and which 
 may easily be prepared by persons possessing little 
 or no experience in this direction, and without the 
 use of expensive machinery or appliances. 
 
How TO Make Candy, 
 
 The art of the confectioner is one which, 
 without being especially intricate or difficult of 
 acquirement, demands much experience for a full 
 mastery of its details. We cannot hope, therefore, 
 by description merely, however plain and specific, 
 to enable the reader to attain that deftness of 
 manipulation which will be found essential in the 
 preparation of very many of the more delicate 
 and ornamental products which the confectioner is 
 called upon to furnish. This, like every kind of 
 manual skill, can come from experience and prac- 
 tice only. It is quite possible, however, to impart 
 the information by which the various kinds of 
 candies and confections most in demand may 
 easily be prepared, especially for the delectation of 
 the home circle, where the quality and pleasant 
 
6 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 flavor of the product is sought, rather than its 
 manufacture into any particular form. 
 
 In such cases, the information given in these 
 pages will enable any person who will intelligently 
 and carefully follo-^ the directions laid down, to 
 produce with very little trouble and cost, and of 
 unqualified purity, many of the sweet things which 
 are in such universal demand. Confections so 
 simple as ordinary lozenges, for instance, require 
 skilled labor for their manufacture of uniform size 
 and smoothness, and that they may be neatly 
 packed in small rolls, the form in which they are 
 usually sold ; but any intelligent boy or girl can 
 with a little fine sugar, dissolved gum, and flavor- 
 ing material, produce the same fully equal in 
 quality, though possibly not in appearance, to those 
 made by the largest manufacturer. This little 
 book is not therefore intended to be a technical 
 treatise for the use of skilled confectioners, but a 
 manual of plain and simple recipes and directions 
 for the use, principally, of the young people of 
 the household, who will, we trust, find sweet em- 
 ployment in the practical application of the 
 information given. 
 
MATERIALS USED. 
 
 MATERIALS USED IN CANDY MAKING. 
 
 The materials used in the home manufacture of 
 candy are neither expensive nor difficult to be ob- 
 tained, even in places possessing but limited 
 trading accommodations. Aside from sugar in its 
 different forms, the base of all confections, these 
 materials consist chiefly of flavors and colorings 
 which are in almost universal demand for many 
 other purposes, and are hence readily procurable. 
 A brief description of the more prominent charac- 
 teristics of the principal ^articles used will be 
 necessary before proceeding to describe the pro- 
 cesses in which they are to be employed. 
 
 Flavors. 
 
 The essential oils of various aromatic plants 
 are usually employed for the purpose of communi- 
 cating an agreeable flavor to candies and other 
 confections. In some cases the essential oil is 
 used in an undiluted form, or with only a slight 
 admixture of strong alcohol to "cut it," as the 
 operation is usually termed, that the flavor may be 
 
8 HOW TO MAKE CAND Y. 
 
 more readily and uniformly diffused throughout' 
 the sugar in process of manufacture. 
 
 The proper preparation of many articles, how- 
 ever, requires the introduction of the flavoring 
 material in a less concentrated form, and for this 
 purpose solutions of the different oils are employed, 
 termed essences or extracts. 
 
 These, as used by different makers of confec- 
 tionery, are of varying strength, a matter of little 
 practical importance as regards the quality of the 
 manufactured goods, if made from pure materials, 
 as the amount of any particular kind to be em- 
 ployed is regulated by the taste, and the weaker 
 the extract, the greater will be the quantity needed 
 to produce a certain intensity of flavor. It is, 
 however, considered better in making the more 
 solid forms of candy, to use the flavoring ma- 
 terial in as concentrated a state as is consistent 
 with a due regard for its proper diffusion in order 
 that but little liquid may be introduced. 
 
 In the receipts for the preparation of flavoring 
 extracts which will hereafter be given, the strength 
 indicated will be that usually adopted by the best 
 makers of these goods, whose products may be 
 substituted in following the directions of succeed- 
 
FLA VORS. g 
 
 ing pages regarding the flavor of confections, in 
 all cases where it is not deemed desirable to 
 undertake their manufacture. Flavoring extracts 
 are but simple mixtures of essential oils with 
 spirits, or tinctures prepared by maceration of the 
 flavoring substance in the same material, and the 
 receipts to be given will produce these articles of 
 the best quality, fully equal in all respects to those 
 so largely advertised. 
 
 It is only necessary to be careful that the essen- 
 tial oils employed are fresh and unadulterated. 
 The confectioner whose business requires the use 
 of any considerable quantity of flavoring extracts, 
 and who is in the habit of buying those prepared 
 by others, is only paying a large price without any 
 corresponding advantage to himself, for a mere 
 mixture of essential oils and alcohol, when he 
 might easily procure the articles separately and 
 perform his own mixing. Where only small quan- 
 tities are needed, however, it may be better to 
 purchase a small bottle of good extract than to 
 attempt its manufacture. 
 
 The difference in meaning of the terms essence 
 and extract as applied to the solutions described 
 relates solely to the strength of flavor. 
 
lo HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 Thus, extract of lemon is prepared by using 
 eight ounces of the essential oil of lemon to one 
 gallon of alcohol, while the essence would con- 
 tain only two or three ounces of oil in the same 
 quantity of spirits. 
 
 General Directions for the Preparation of Fla- 
 voring Extracts. 
 
 Much needless repetition may be avoided by 
 giving just here a few general directions which are 
 to be observed in the preparation of all flavoring 
 extracts, while any special information needed as 
 regards any particular flavor will be found under 
 its appropriate heading. Great care should be 
 observed to secure pure, inodorous alcohol, 
 which must be of sufficient strength to completely 
 dissolve the essential oil at the ordinary temperature. 
 
 In most cases, such strength is indicated by 
 the almost immediately resulting transparency of 
 the mixture, but in some instances it is necessary 
 to filter it through carbonate of magnesia in order 
 to effect a perfect combination. 
 
 If the oil does not actually separate from the 
 alcohol — which it will not do unless the latter be 
 
FLA VORING EXTRACTS. 1 1 
 
 weak — a perfectly transparent solution has no ad- 
 vantage, save that of appearance, over one which 
 is slightly cloudy. 
 
 As essential oils have very little color, the re- 
 sulting extracts will be clear, or only slightly 
 tinged. The color is, therefore, no real criterion 
 by which to judge of the strength of the extract. 
 The public, however, not being generally acquainted 
 with this fact, are inclined to favor that style 
 which to them seems the strongest, judging from 
 appearances merely. In deference to this whim, 
 manufacturers of bottled extracts are accustomed 
 to color their goods — a perfectly harmless proceed- 
 ing, though not really necessary to their excellence. 
 
 For this purpose, tumeric is employed to give 
 a yellow ; cochineal or aniline dye, a red color. 
 
 For practical use in flavoring candies, of course 
 no color need be added to the extracts ; in fact, in 
 the manufacture of white goods they should be as 
 free from color as possible. 
 
 Anise. — The true essential oil of anise is pro- 
 cured by distillation from the seed of the well-known 
 plant of this name. The oil, generally sold as such, 
 is obtained from the fruit of an East Indian tree, 
 
12 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 and so nearly resembles the true oil, that it has 
 generally supplanted it. The flavor of anise is now 
 but sparingly used by confectioners, the taste being 
 too unpleasantly remindful of elixir paregoric and 
 other nauseous medicinal doses of which it is an 
 ingredient, to find much favor with the young folks 
 when presented in the form of candy. The pure 
 oil congeals at a temperature of 50°, and will not 
 readily dissolve in alcohol of a temperature below 
 60°, though when dissolved it will not separate at 
 a much lower temperature. At the right tempera- 
 ture it unites freely with any proportion of strong 
 alcohol, and the solution does not need to be 
 filtered. The extract is rarely used. If wanted, it 
 may be made in the proportion of one ounce of 
 oil to a pint of spirits. 
 
 Cinnamon. — Under this name two essential oils 
 are imported, one, and by far the best known, being 
 the product of the Laicrus cassia^ and rightly 
 named oil of Cassia, though ordinarily termed oil 
 of Cinnamon. The ground bark of this tree has 
 obtained an extensive use in culinary art, and is a 
 favorite flavor in many household dishes. It is that 
 which is usually sold by grocers as ground cinna- 
 
FLA VORING EXTRACTS. 13 
 
 mon, though the same distinction should obtain as 
 in the case of the oil. The other, and much the 
 finer oil, is obtained from the Laurus cimtamonujn^ 
 and is known as oil of Ceylon Cinnamon. Its 
 price is usually seven or eight times that of the 
 ordinary oil of cassia, and in quality it correspond- 
 ingly excels. For some uses it is indispensable, 
 especially in compounding the cachou flavor to be 
 mentioned hereafter. 
 
 The ordinary oil of cassia is the one generally 
 used by confectioners, but the true Ceylon oil has a 
 spicy fragrance peculiarly its own, and would prove 
 much more acceptable. As its flavor is very in- 
 tense it should be employed with judgment, a few 
 drops only sufficing for a pound of sugar. 
 
 Extract of Cinnamon — True Ceylon oil, One ounce. 
 
 Alcohol, One pint. 
 
 Tinge lightly with aniline red, then with tinc- 
 ture of tumeric. This combination will give a 
 brownish-red color, resembling ' that of an extract 
 prepared from the bark. 
 
 Cloves. — The characteristic qualities of this 
 spicy product of the Indies are too well known 
 to require an extended description. All parts of 
 
14 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 the clove-tree yield the essential oil, but it is 
 more plentifully obtained by distillation from the 
 undeveloped flower-buds. These, when dried, con- 
 stitute the cloves of commerce. 
 
 The flavor of clove is a pleasing one, though 
 not so universally popular as some others. 
 
 It is principally used in those forms of confec- 
 tionery which are intended to give a pleasing per- 
 fume to the breath after the use of articles the 
 odor of which may be thought to be objectionable 
 to others. In such cases the oil is used in its 
 concentrated state. 
 
 If an extract is required, it may be made as 
 follows : 
 
 Extract of Clove — Oil of clove, Two ounces. 
 
 Alcohol, One pint. 
 
 Carraway. — The oil from the fragrant seeds 
 of this plant, although readily obtainable, and 
 quite often employed in the manufacture of cordials 
 and liquors, is not used as a flavor for candies. 
 
 The seeds themselves are largely made use of in 
 the preparation of comfits, and it would seem that 
 the oil might be acceptably used in the flavoring of 
 candy. 
 
FLA VORING EXTRACTS. 15 
 
 Calamus. — From the root of the sweet flag or 
 calamus is distilled an oil having the peculiar fla- 
 vor of the plant. It is very little used, save 
 occasionally as an ingredient in the flavoring of 
 small breath confections. The green root sliced into 
 pieces and boiled in sugar has long been a favor- 
 ite domestic confection, and is often prepared by 
 manufacturers under the name of candied flag. 
 
 Checkerberry. — The same as wintergreen, 
 which see. 
 
 Coriander. — The small round seeds of this 
 plant were formerly much used in the preparation 
 of large-sized comfits or sugar balls, which were 
 quite a favorite some years ago. At present they 
 are but little called for. The essential oil might 
 perhaps be used as a flavor for some novelty which 
 would be apt to meet with considerable success, 
 as the taste ©of the seed is pleasant and far from 
 being commonly known, especially to the younger 
 people of the present time. 
 
 Bitter Almond. — The essential oil of this 
 name is obtained by distillation from the residue 
 remaining after expression of the fixed oil from 
 
i6 HO IV TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 the kernels of the fruit of the bitter almond 
 tree, a member of the peach family. Indeed, the 
 pits of the latter fruit are often substituted for 
 bitter almonds, the flavors of both being nearly- 
 alike. Unless perfectly pure, it possesses highly 
 poisonous properties, and should be used with cau- 
 tion. As the injurious effects are due to the 
 presence of a notable quantity of hydrocyanic 
 acid, which may easily be removed without detri- 
 ment to the flavor of the oil, the necessity of 
 using the latter in a purified form only is ap- 
 parent. 
 
 Bitter almond is a very pleasing flavor when 
 judiciously used, but has a strong, disagreeable 
 taste when added in excess. The extract may be 
 prepared as follows : 
 Extract of Bitter Almond — 
 
 Pure essential oil of bitter almond, Two ounces. 
 
 Alcohol, One pint. 
 
 The extract is usually sent out uncolored. Ex- 
 tracts of peach and nectarine are the same as the 
 above, but are labelled differently to suit the re- 
 spective demands of customers. 
 
 Capsicum. — This pungent flavor is used to a 
 
FLA VORING EXTRACTS. 17 
 
 limited extent, chiefly in the preparation of Ca- 
 yenne lozenges. 
 
 Extract of Capsicum — Powdered Cayenne pepper, Four ounces. 
 Alcohol, One pint. 
 
 Mix, and let stand (or a few days. The extract 
 may be obtained clear by filtration. 
 
 Cardamon. — A 'v^ery agreeable aromatic, used 
 as a breath perfume. The small seeds are coated 
 with sugar, and sold in the form of a comfit. 
 The seeds are quite expensive, which has probably 
 prevented their use in other forms of candy. 
 The flavor would be a fine one for lozenges. 
 Should an extract be desired, it may be prepared 
 as follows : 
 
 Extract of Cardamon — 
 
 Cardamon seeds, finely ground, Four ounces. 
 
 Alcohol, « One pint. 
 
 Allow the seeds to macerate for two weeks, and 
 filter. 
 
 Ginger. — The root of this plant is employed 
 by the confectioner both in the recent and dried 
 state. When fresh and tender the roots, deprived 
 of their outer covering, are boiled in syrup, and 
 
i8 HOW TO MAKE CANDY, 
 
 form an agreeable, though very rich and pungent, 
 preserve. The preserved ginger is often imported 
 from the East Indies in small earthen pots, which 
 are bound with strips of bamboo. 
 
 The dried root is much used in cooking for 
 its agreeable flavor, and in medicine for its excel- 
 lent stimulating and carminative properties. 
 
 In the form of lozenges 2ftid drops its pleasant 
 effects are much sought after, especially in the 
 summer months. In the incipient stages of many 
 diseases peculiar to hot weather, its prompt ad- 
 ministration has often prevented severe sickness. 
 
 The extract is therefore much in demand, and 
 is manufactured and sold in large quantities. 
 
 Its preparation is extremely simple, and as the 
 ingredients are so easily procured, it may be 
 made by any family for less than one fifth of its 
 cost when puschased in the small bottles in which 
 it is usually vended. Ginger is cultivated in many 
 tropical countries, principally in the East and West 
 Indies, and Sierra Leone in Africa. That brought 
 from the West Indies is considered to be finer 
 in the flavor, and of greater strength, and is gen- 
 erally known by the name of Jamaica ginger. The 
 root of this species is deprived of its epidermis, 
 
FLAVORING EXTRACTS. 19 
 
 and undergoes a bleaching process before being 
 sent to market, by which it is much improved in 
 appearance. It naturally commands a higher price, 
 perhaps greater in proportion to the price of other 
 good kinds than the real difference in quality de- 
 mands. As regards the extracts which are so 
 freely advertised as being made from Jamaica gin- 
 ger, they are, in the majority of cases, a deception 
 so far as their names are concerned, not a particle 
 of real Jamaica ginger entering into their com- 
 position. 
 
 If honestly prepared, however, of full strength, 
 from a fine quality of African or East Indian gin- 
 ger, this little fiction of name can hardly be 
 considered in the light of a fraud, as the medic- 
 inal properties are the same, and the strength of 
 the substituted article can easily be made fully 
 equal to all requirements. 
 
 Extract of Jamaica Ginger — Pure ground ginger, Four ounces. 
 Alcohol, One pint. 
 
 Mix, and allow them to remain, frequently 
 shaking, for four or five days before filtering. 
 
 The extract, when completed, may be filtered 
 by draining it through a little cotton-wool placed 
 in the neck of an ordinary tin funnel. 
 
20 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 If the first portion which runs through is tur- 
 bid, it may be returned. After running a few 
 minutes, the extract will come through of a clear 
 brandy color. In large quantities the extract is 
 prepared by the process of percolation. 
 
 During the summer months a drink well 
 adapted to the season may be prepared by add- 
 ing to ice water sweetened with sugar or molasses, 
 a few drops of the ginger extract prepared as 
 above. If made from .molasses the drink will be 
 an improvement on the old-fashioned " switchel," 
 that favorite beverage of farmers in haying-time. 
 
 Lemon. — From the exceeding great variety of 
 flavors which nature has so lavishly created for 
 the delectation of mankind, hardly any other can 
 be selected which will compare in popularity with 
 that of the lemon. Suited alike to all tastes, 
 in every climate, and in all seasons, in sick- 
 ness or in health, the palate never tires of 
 its delicious aroma. It forms alike the principal 
 flavoring ingredient of the exhilarating punch of 
 the bon vtvanfj or the simple lemonade of the tee- 
 totaller. The fruit, from the rind of- which the 
 flavor is obtained, is so well known that any 
 
FLA VORING EXTRACTS. 2 1 
 
 description is unnecessary. The extract of lemon 
 sold in such large quantities, generally in small 
 panelled bottles, and labelled in so many varying 
 styles, is a simple mixture of the essential oil of 
 the lemon with alcohol. 
 
 Extract of Lemon — Pure oil of lemon, Two ounces. 
 
 Alcohol, One pint. 
 
 Mix, tinge slightly with a few drops of tinc- 
 ture of tumeric, and filter. Of course the 
 proportion of oil may be increased or diminished 
 at pleasure, but the proportions given are those 
 usually adopted by makers of ^ the best flavoring 
 extracts. 
 
 For home use a fine extract may be made by 
 grating the outer rinds of a dozen lemons and 
 mixing the same with a half pint of alcohol. 
 
 The skin of the lemon consists of two sec- 
 tions, the inner one being white, tough, and bitter, 
 the outer one consisHng of an aggregation of 
 small cells surrounded by a very thin yellow 
 envelope, enclosing the pure essential oil in which 
 alone the flavor is found. Consequently, the ob- 
 ject in preparing a fine extract should be to 
 obtain all the oil from the outer portion without 
 
22 ^OIV TO MAKE CANDY, 
 
 destroying the quality of its flavor by mixture with 
 the white and bitter part of the skin. 
 
 To secure this result requires care on the 
 part of the operator, the lemon being lightly 
 rubbed on the grater in such a manner that a 
 fresh portion is continually exposed as soon as 
 the oil cells have been broken and removed, and 
 the white portion of the skin appears. 
 
 Another way is to remove the outer skin care- 
 fully with a very sharp knife, and macerate the 
 thin parings in alcohol. By either process an 
 extract is obtained possessing the beautiful yel- 
 low color and fine flavor of the fruit. A mod- 
 ification of this process may be adopted by using 
 lumps of refined sugar as graters. The oil will 
 be absorbed in the pores of the sugar, and when 
 full, a fresh lump may be substituted. These 
 rough lumps saturated with oil when covered with 
 alcohol will readily give up to the latter their fra- 
 grant accumulations. Oil of lemon is one of the few 
 articles which it is almost impossible to obtain in 
 small quantities of good quality, from even first- 
 class druggists. The reason for this lies in the 
 fact that it is a substance exceedingly prone to 
 change, and however fresh and pure it may be 
 
FLA VORING EXTRACTS. 23 
 
 when purchased by the dealers, it soon loses its 
 fine taste, and in a greater or less degree ac- 
 quires an aroma resembling turpentine. It will 
 therefore be found better to prepare it for domes- 
 tic use directly from the fruit. As the latter 
 varies greatly in price, advantage may be taken of 
 exceptionally low rates, and a quantity prepared 
 for future use. After mixture with alcohol the 
 flavor of the oil remains unaltered for a long 
 time. 
 
 Orange. — The flavor of this fruit may be ob- 
 tained in the form of an extract by either of 
 the processes mentioned in the* preceding para- 
 graph. 
 
 It is even more disposed than lemon to change 
 by exposure to the air, and hence is little used in 
 confectionery intended to be kept for any length 
 of time before consumption. 
 
 Orange Flower. — The flowers of the orange 
 when distilled with water yield a volatile oil, 
 possessing the fragrance of the blossom in a some- 
 what modified form, owing to the action of the 
 heat used to effect the distillation. The essential 
 
24 HO IV TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 oil rises on the surface of the water which dis- 
 tils over and is termed oil of neroli. The water 
 impregnated with the flavor is sold under the 
 name of orange flower water, and is occasionally 
 used in confectionery. It may also be made by 
 filtering pure water through carbonate of magnesia 
 with which oil of neroli has been rubbed. 
 
 The true odor of the flower is best obtained 
 from an alcoholic infusion of the scented pomade 
 prepared in the south of France for perfumery 
 purposes. 
 
 Peppermint. — There are few who are unac- 
 quainted with the peculiarly grateful fragrance of 
 this herb. 
 
 In all parts of our country it is found in 
 certain favorite localities of its own, growing in 
 a wild state, in some places so profusely that its 
 harvesting is a profitable one. 
 
 The regular supply of essential oil is, however, 
 obtained from the cultivated plant, large quantities 
 being raised for this purpose in the States of 
 New York and Michigan. 
 
 In New York the business is principally in 
 the hands of the Messrs. Hotchkiss, in Wayne 
 
FLA YOKING EX TRA CTS. 25 
 
 county, and the care and attention which they 
 have bestowed upon the cultivation of this plant, 
 and the distillation of its essential oil, have given 
 to their product a reputation which has caused 
 the article bearing their name to be sought after 
 in the principal markets of the world. In St. 
 Joseph county, Michigan, there are a greater 
 number of acres under cultivation, and much fine 
 oil is sent to market from this section, but not 
 under a trade-mark so well known as that of the 
 Hotchkiss oil. Much of the common oil is either 
 badly adulterated or carelessly made, and has a 
 coarse flavor much different from the fine, ethereal 
 taste of the pure and carefully-prepared article. 
 
 The flavor of peppermint is chiefly made use 
 of by confectioners in the manufacture of drops, 
 lozenges, and the small penny sticks which with 
 their brilliant red stripings have at all times proved 
 so attractive to juvenile eyes. No matter what have 
 been the money fluctuations of our country, no 
 dealer has had the audacity to change the price 
 of the latter, but by comparing the size of the 
 sticks offered the children of the present day with 
 the generous proportions of those obtainable by 
 the young people of a former generation, we can 
 
26 1^0 IV TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 see in their attenuated shapes an illustration of 
 the wonderfully diminished purchasing power of 
 the American cent. 
 
 For flavoring these forms of candy, the oil is 
 generally used without much reduction. If re- 
 quired, an extract may be prepared in the pro- 
 portion of one and one half to two ounces of 
 oil to a pint of alcohol. No filtering will be 
 necessary, as the oil is very soluble. For domes- 
 tic use the essence is the form generally employed, 
 which is, as before stated, but a weaker form of 
 extract. Two ounces of oil to the gallon of alco- 
 hol is the standard proportion. 
 
 The essences sold by pedlers are still weaker, 
 one ounce only of oil being used to three quarts 
 of alcohol and one of water. 
 
 Rose. — It seems to be a noteworthy fact that 
 we rarely care to employ the same substance as a 
 source of gratification to both the sense of smell 
 and that of taste. We prefer to allot to some 
 especial aroma the task of tickling the palate, 
 while to another is assigned the service of de-' 
 lighting the nasal nerves. In accordance with this 
 "natural selection," the odor of the rose is oftener 
 
FLA VORING EXTRACTS. 27 
 
 employed in perfumery than as a means for ren- 
 dering other substances more acceptable to the 
 taste. Occasionally it is used for flavoring some 
 forms of candies, and when so needed an extract 
 may be made by dissolving one half ounce of 
 the pure oil or otto of rose in a pint of alcohol. 
 The bottled extract for culinary flavoring purposes 
 is made of one half this strength, or two ounces 
 of oil to the gallon of alcohol. 
 
 Rose water, which is sometimes used, is ob- 
 tained in a manner similar to that described under 
 the head of Orange Flowers. The true extract may 
 also be prepared from the scented rose pomade, 
 and has an exceedingly fine flavor. As the po- 
 made is obtainable only in large-sized cans, the 
 preparation of this form of extract, as well as 
 that of orange flowers, is not practicable on a 
 small scale. 
 
 Sassafras. — A very fragrant oil is distilled 
 from the bark of the root of the sassafras tree. 
 
 It is used principally to flavor lozenges, for 
 v/hich purpose it is employed in its natural state 
 without reduction. 
 
 The essence is sometimes in demand as an in- 
 
28 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 gredient in root beer, and is made by adding two 
 ounces of the oil to a gallon of spirits. 
 
 Vanilla. — A combination of intensity and del- 
 icacy characterizes the delicious flavor of vanilla. 
 The plant is a running vine of the orchid family, 
 and is a native of Mexico and South America. 
 The flavor is obtained from the fruit, which is 
 a round, slender pod, from five to eight inches 
 in length, filled with an oily, pulpy mass, contain- 
 ing a great quantity of very minute shining black 
 seeds. The best vanilla comes from Mexico, and 
 is distinguished by the greater size and length of 
 the pods over those of inferior kinds. The pods, 
 usually but improperly termed beans, are collected 
 before they have become fully ripe, and having 
 been carefully dried, are brushed over with a fixed 
 oil, which gives them a glossy appearance. They 
 are tied up in bundles weighing about a pound, 
 and packed in tin boxes which are tightly sealed. 
 The aromatic principle of vanilla consists of a 
 crystalline substance termed vamlltJt, which is never 
 isolated for practical purposes, the flavor being 
 obtained by maceration of the pods in diluted 
 alcohol, and used in the form of an extract. 
 
FLA VORING EXTRACTS. 29 
 
 Owing to the high price of vanilla, its extract is 
 rarely to be obtained in a pure state. Unfortunately, 
 the public taste has become so habituated to the 
 substitute, that it will not pay the price neces- 
 sarily required for the unadulterated article. This 
 substitute is the Tonka bean, the seed of a tree 
 growing in Guiana, commonly known as the "snuff" 
 bean, from its frequent employment as a perfume 
 for that substance. Used alone, or in combination 
 with a small portion of vanilla, which it strongly 
 resembles in flavor, its taste is not unagreeable to 
 those not accustomed to the delicate aroma of the 
 latter in a pure state. 
 
 It is largely employed in the manufacture of 
 the cheap flavoring extracts sold by dealers 
 whose trade does not demand goods of the 
 quality usually kept by druggists and first class 
 grocers. The following receipts will show the 
 difference in the quality of various kinds: 
 
 I. Extract of Pure Vanilla— Vanilla pods. Two ounces. 
 Alcohol, Eight ounces. 
 
 Water, Eight ounces. 
 
 If only a small quantity is to be ' prepared, 
 the pods may be sliced and cut in fine pieces 
 with a sharp knife, and thoroughly pounded with 
 
30 HO W TO MAKE CAND V. 
 
 one or two ounces of granulated sugar in an 
 iron mortar. They are then to be placed with 
 the alcohol and water , and allowed to stand 
 ten or twelve days, when the extract may be 
 filtered. If a large amount is required, one of 
 the machines used for mincing meat may be em- 
 ployed with the best results to secure the fine 
 division of the pods ; by running the vanilla 
 through once or twice it is uniformly cut in very 
 fine pieces, and needs no further preparation be- 
 fore admixture with the alcohol and water. It is 
 much better to allow the ingredients to macerate 
 for a month if practicable, and large manufac- 
 turers, after drawing off the extract, subject the 
 dregs to a second maceration with a fresh por- 
 tion of diluted alcohol, which second infusion is 
 used in the preparation of another portion of 
 extract from fresh material. In this way every 
 particle of flavor is thoroughly extracted. The ex- 
 tract prepared in this manner is of a clear 
 brandy color, and possesses the true flavor of the 
 vanilla pod, without impairment. Only the best 
 inodorous alcohol should be employed, and the 
 flavor seems to be more thoroughly extracted 
 when it is used in a diluted form. 
 
FLA VORING EXTRACTS. 31 
 
 II. Best Commercial Extract — 
 
 Vanilla, Four ounces. 
 
 Tonka beans, Eight ounces. 
 
 Sugar, Six ounces. 
 
 Alcohol, Two quarts. 
 
 Water, Two quarts. 
 
 The vanilla pods are to be finely divided in 
 the manner described in the preceding paragraph. 
 The Tonka beans, being of a different texture, 
 and containing less oil, may be easily ground in 
 an ordinary hand mill. The further processes of 
 manufacture are the same as those already described. 
 In this manner is prepared the bulk of the 
 extracts of vanilla, advertised as pure and sold 
 as first-class. 
 
 III. Common Extract Vanilla — 
 
 Tonka beans, Twelve to sixteen ounces. 
 
 Alcohol, Two quarts. 
 
 Water, Two quarts. 
 
 Good brown sugar, Eight ounces. 
 
 The process of manufacture is a simple one. 
 The beans are ground and macerated with the 
 alcohol, water, and sugar for about two weeks. 
 The extract is then strained through a cloth filter 
 and is ready for bottling, though it will be im- 
 proved in appearance if allowed to stand for a 
 
32 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 week, in order that all insoluble matter may be 
 precipitated. 
 
 This form of extract is that sent out by the 
 large manufacturers who make a specialty of the 
 preparation of this class of goods for the cheap 
 trade. It is, of course, very inferior in quality, 
 and is sold at a lower price, but the profits on 
 its manufacture are greater than are made on the 
 finer grades. 
 
 The color is quite dark, if of sufficient strength, 
 and by comparison with the pure extract, its in- 
 feriority is quite apparent. 
 
 Wintergreen. — But few of our readers have 
 failed to meet with this fragrant creeping plant in 
 the course of their forest rambles, and every 
 country boy or girl knows some corner of the 
 woods in which it may successfully be sought. 
 The pleasant aromatic taste of its leaves has 
 made it a popular flavor, and it shares with pep- 
 permint the distinction of being a universal 
 favorite with juveniles. In those places where its 
 growth is most abundant, it is gathered for the 
 sake of its essential oil, which possesses all the 
 fine aroma of the plant. 
 
ARTIFICIAL FRUIT ESSENCES, 33 
 
 Like peppermint, the oil is used for flavoring 
 by direct admixture, with but little reduction. 
 The- essence is in demand during the summer 
 months as a flavor for various popular beverages. 
 It is prepared by the addition of two ounces of 
 the oil to a gallon of alcohol. A few drops of 
 aniline dye or cochineal tincture are added to give 
 it a reddish tint. 
 
 Artificial Fruit Essences. 
 
 An extended description of the mode of man- 
 ufacture of this class of flavors would doubtless 
 prove interesting to many, but would hardly fall 
 within the scope of this work, as it is our inten- 
 tion to explain in detail only those processes 
 which can be successfully carried out on a small 
 scale, as well as in the large way. Neither could 
 any full account be given which would be intelli- 
 gible to those unfamiliar with chemical technics. 
 It is suflicient, then, to say that the flavoring prin- 
 ciples of many fruits appear to reside in volatile 
 substances belonging to the class of ethers, rather 
 
34 HOW TO MAKE CAND Y. 
 
 than that of essential oils. In the case of such 
 fruits these fragrant ethers are developed during 
 the ripening process, and are found in their great- 
 est perfection and intensity of odor just previous 
 to the disorganization of the fruity substance by 
 putrefaction. 
 
 We all know how insipid and flavorless a thing 
 a green banana is, and how delicious its taste and 
 aroma become when it is just at the point of de- 
 cay. These ethers seem therefore to be the 
 product of a chemical change in some of the 
 organic components of the fruit, brought about by 
 exposure to heat and the oxygen of the air. 
 
 And when we remember from how few ele- 
 ments are formed the innumerable organic 
 combinations with which we are acquainted, by 
 how feeble an attraction these combinations are held 
 together, and how readily certain agencies operate 
 to break up and rearrange them, we are easily 
 prepared to understand that there are methods by 
 which the chemist may in many instances control 
 the operations of nature, and by conducting them 
 in channels of his own choosing, render them 
 available in the so termed artificial production of 
 certain organic compounds. 
 
ARTIFICIAL FRUIT ESSENCES. 35 
 
 ' Such operations present many apparent anoma- 
 lies to those unacquainted with the operation of 
 chemical laws, . and when told that the ether to 
 which the 'fine fragrance of the pineapple is due 
 is obtained in large quantities, for flavoring pur- 
 poses, from putrefied cheese or rancid butter, no 
 wonder that they receive the statement with some 
 degree of incredulity. 
 
 Yet the elements which give the fine perfume 
 in the one instance and the nauseous smell in 
 the other, are the same; it is only a change in 
 their proportion and arrangement which causes so 
 perceptible a difference in their effects. 
 
 And to illustrate how nicely the line is drawn 
 between pleasing and repulsive odors, it may be 
 stated that the perfume of the tuberose, the fra- 
 grance of numerous fine fruits, and the disgust- 
 ing odor of many noxious insects, belong to the 
 same class of chemical compounds, and but the 
 slightest change in molecular arrangement is re- 
 quired to cause the transformation of one into the 
 other. In some instances, the difference in the sen- 
 sation produced upon the nasal nerves is due simply 
 to a variation in intensity of the same odor. The 
 delightful bouquet of the Sheldon or Duchess 
 
36 HO W TO MAKE CAND Y. 
 
 d'Angouleme pear, the perfume of the jasmin, 
 and the vile smell of the common squash-bug are 
 identical in character. In the latter instance the 
 nauseous sensation seems to be the result mainly 
 of greater intensity of odor, by which a disturbing 
 nervous effect of an unpleasant character is pro- 
 duced. 
 
 This quality of intensity of odor is character- 
 istic of all these compounds, and when in a 
 concentrated state, hardly any of them are pleasant 
 to the smell. 
 
 Owing to this quality, only a very small quan- 
 tity of any kind is required to communicate the 
 peculiar flavor whicli it represents to a large 
 body of sugar or other substance with which it is 
 to be used. The demand, therefore, though large 
 in the aggregate, is limited, and quite within the 
 capacity of a few manufacturing chemists to sup- 
 ply. As they have had the shrewdness to keep 
 the price at a point which, while affording them 
 a good profit, does not tempt to competition, 
 they have obtained a practical monopoly of the 
 production. The artificial essences most in use are 
 the following ; 
 
ARTIFICIAL FRUIT ESSENCES. 37 
 
 Essence of Pineapple. — This essence is a 
 solution of butyric ether in alcohol. The first 
 step in its preparation consists in the formation 
 of butyric acid, which is most readily obtained 
 by mixing a solution of grape sugar with about 
 one tenth of its weight of cheese which has be- 
 come rancid, and half its weight of powdered 
 chalk. The mixture is allowed to stand for two 
 or three months in a moderately warm place, du- 
 ring which time the butyric acid forms and 
 combines with the lime of the chalk, from which 
 it is separated by means of sulphuric acid. 
 From the butyric acid mixed with alcohol and 
 sulphuric acid, the butyric ether is formed, which 
 has the characteristic odor of the pineapple. It 
 is also combined with other ethers to produce 
 compounds resembling the flavors of various other 
 fruits. 
 
 Essence of Banana. — This essence is pre- 
 pared by first distilling a mixture of one part of 
 fusel oil, two of acetate of potash, and one of 
 strong sulphuric acid. After careful rectification 
 it is dissolved in alcohol and sold as pear essence. 
 When mixed with butyric ether it quite closely 
 
38 HO W TO MAKE CAND Y. 
 
 resembles the natural flavor of the banana, and 
 is sold as the essence of that fruit. 
 
 Essences of Strawberry, Raspberry, and 
 other Fruits are simply mixtures of the above- 
 described ethers with others of a similar charac- 
 ter, but do not so nearly resemble the fruits 
 which they are supposed to represent. The 
 essences of pineapple and banana are the ones 
 principally used, and may be obtained in small 
 quantities of the retail druggist, or in larger lots 
 for bottling, from the manufacturing chemists. 
 
 When first * introduced they were alleged to 
 possess poisonous properties, but no ill effects 
 having been observed after their constant use for 
 a long time, no fears need now be entertained on 
 that score. Like many other substances, if used 
 in a concentrated state, they would certainly 
 prove injurious if not fatal, but this would be 
 true of oil of lemon, or many other substances 
 which cannot be classed with poisons. As but 
 very small quantities are needed to produce a 
 pleasant flavor, there is no danger to be appre- 
 hended from their use. 
 
COLORS. 39 
 
 Colors. 
 
 The influence of the hnagination upon the spe- 
 cial senses is a recognized fact. A rose by any other 
 name would not smell quite as sweet to one, to 
 whom from remembrance of previous association of 
 name and odor, the mere mention of this beauti- 
 ful flower suggests an idea of a specific delicious 
 fragrance. Nor would the child's stick of pepper- 
 mint candy afford nearly as much gratification to 
 the juvenile palate if presented without the brilliant 
 red stripings, which, to youthful fancy, seem insep- 
 arable from its peculiarly pleasant taste. If, there- 
 fore, the employment of color is not in a certain 
 sense necessary in confectionery, it does in some 
 degree add to the enjoyment derived from many ar- 
 ticles which are greatly improved in appearance by 
 its use. The few colors needed for this purpose are 
 of a simple and harmless character, and may be 
 easily prepared at home, if their use is deemed 
 desirable. 
 
 Red — 
 
 Powdered Cochineal, One quarter ounce. 
 « Alum, " " '« 
 
 " Sal Tartar, « « , « 
 
 " Cream Tartar, One half " 
 
40 ^OIV TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 Mix and add six ounces of warm water and four 
 of alcohol. Allow the mixture to stand over night, 
 and filter for use. If intended for immediate use, 
 the alcohol may be omitted, and the quantity of 
 water proportionally increased. 
 
 II. Take a piece of pure carmine, of the size 
 of a walnut. Rub it in a mortar with one ounce 
 of water, to which add a few drops of ammonia, 
 until the carmine is entirely dissolved. If thick, 
 it can be reduced with more water. 
 
 The use of ammonia is not objectionable, as 
 it is- so volatile that a few moments' exposure to 
 the air is sufficient to drive away all traces of 
 its presence. 
 
 Yellow. — To a half ounce of saffron add two 
 ounces of alcohol, and two of water. Allow the 
 mixture to stand several days. The tincture thus 
 prepared has a deep orange color, and when di- 
 luted, or used in small quantities, gives a beautiful 
 yellow shade to all forms of sugar. Gum gamboge, 
 dissolved in water, may be used in small quantities 
 only. If too freely employed its peculiar medic- 
 inal properties will prove objectionable. 
 
COLORS. 
 
 Blue. — The best and most innocent substance 
 for this purpose is the soluble form of Prussian 
 blue, which may be procured from the druggist 
 in the form of a powder which is very soluble in 
 water without the use of any acid. Ordinary 
 Prussian blue is insoluble, unless a small quantity 
 of oxalic acid, which is highly poisonous, is added. 
 The pure, soluble Prussian blue is a preparation 
 of iron, and of a harmless character. It may be 
 dissolved in water in quantities to produce any 
 desired depth of color. One dram of this pow- 
 der to two ounces of water will be found 
 sufficient. 
 
 Green. — This color is produced by a mixture 
 of the blue and yellow colors in any proportion 
 according to the shade desired. 
 
 Purple.— From a mixture of the red and 
 blue solutions. 
 
 The above-named colors are all that ordinarily 
 need be employed, and will, by combination, and 
 the use of different degrees of strength of the 
 solutions, produce many beautiful and varying 
 tints. 
 
42 
 
 HO IV TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 Many of the French confections and their 
 imitations are colored by substances, the use of 
 which is highly objectionable. To say nothing of 
 the employment of umber, sienna, etc., which are 
 nothing but certain forms of dirt, many substances 
 are introduced like red lead, chrome yellow, and 
 vermilion, which are highly poisonous. The beau- 
 tiful aniline dyes, though much employed, are 
 considered by many objectionable, and are sup- 
 posed to be somewhat poisonous in their nature. 
 The intensity of their color is so great, however, 
 that the quantity necessary to produce any inju- 
 rious effect would not be likely to be introduced. 
 The red and purple shades, as procured in solu- 
 tion from the druggist, may be employed in some 
 forms of confectionery, a few drops only being 
 sufficient to color a large body of sugar or syrup. 
 
 Sugar. 
 
 The transformation of this substance into the 
 manifold forms which it is capable of assuming, 
 and the production of compounds pleasing to the 
 taste by its incorporation with other materials, 
 
SUGAR. 43 
 
 constitute the art of the confectioner. The sources 
 from which sugar may be obtained, in greater or 
 less quantities, are many. It is found in all fruits 
 and in the juices of many plants. The palm in 
 certain tropical districts, the beet in various parts 
 of Europe, and the maple in our own country, 
 furnish in the aggregate, large quantities. But the 
 supply from these sources is small when com- 
 pared with the immense quantities furnished by 
 the different varieties of sugar-cane, the plant 
 which is chiefly depended upon to yield the 
 amount required by the commerce of the world. 
 
 Raw, or Brown Sugfars.— These terms are 
 applied to the sugars which are sent to market 
 in the crude state in which they are obtained 
 by evaporation of the expressed juice of the 
 cane, and the separation of the uncrystallized parts 
 in the form of molasses. They contain varying 
 amounts of impurities, and differ in color accord- 
 ing to the degree of skill and care which has 
 been exercised in their manufacture. 
 
 The cheaper kinds contain a large percentage of 
 foreign matter, consisting chiefly of dirt and por- 
 tions of the fibre of the cane, are very dark 
 
44 HO W TO MAKE CAND V. 
 
 colored in appearance, and possess a disagreeable 
 taste and smell. The better varieties have a 
 coarser grain, a fine yellow color, very little odor, 
 and are without impurities which can be detected 
 by the sight. 
 
 Refined Sugar. — No matter how much care 
 the manufacturer of the raw sugar may bestow 
 upon this product, it is impossible to procure it 
 in a pure state by the process of evaporation 
 only. A certain amount of coloring and extract- 
 ive matter of the cane will remain, the removal 
 of which must be effected by a special course of 
 treatment. The purification of the crude sugars 
 is a separate branch of industry, requiring a large 
 amount of capital in its prosecution, and giving 
 employment to a great number of persons. 
 
 A full description of the details of this process 
 would, of itself, make a large and interesting 
 volume. For the purpose of the present work, 
 a brief outline will be sufficient, and possibly 
 superfluous, as we are to deal with the treatment 
 of the sugar as furnished by the refiners, leaving 
 to them the care and skill required to obtain 
 the beautiful white and crystalline lumps of sweet- 
 
SUGAR. 45 
 
 ness which we propose to transform and modify 
 in many different ways, after we have re- 
 ceived it from their hands. The refining operations 
 are principally carried on in immense buildings 
 of great height, in order that the crude product 
 having once been raised to the highest story, 
 may in its succeeding treatment, which consists 
 mainly of a series of filtrations, pass from story 
 to story by its own gravity. The first step is to 
 dissolve the raw sugar in warm water. To this 
 solution a portion of lime is added to neutralize 
 any vegetable acids which may be present. Al- 
 bumen, in the form of fresh warm blood from 
 the slaughter-houses, is now introduced, and the 
 liquid brought to the temperature of 212°. The 
 albumen coagulates, and rises to the surface, bring- 
 ing with it many of the coarser impurities. The 
 liquor is now filtered through long cotton bags, and 
 thence into large iron cylinders filled with granu- 
 lated animal charcoal. The charcoal removes the 
 greater part of the coloring matter, and the sac- 
 charine solution, as it emerges from these cylinders, 
 is entirely free from impurities, save a small por- 
 tion of uncrystallizable sugar. By the subsequent 
 operation of evaporation in a vacuum-pan, the 
 
46 HO W TO MAKE CAND V. 
 
 sugar is crystallized, and being placed while 
 moist in concave moulds, the uncrystallized and 
 slightly colored portion drains away, leaving the 
 pure sugar in a compact mass of snowy whiteness. 
 These " loaves " are cut or broken by machinery, 
 and sold as " crushed sugar," or, wrapped in paper, 
 constitute the old-fashioned form of loaf sugar. 
 The syrup which drains from the sugar during the 
 last operation has a peculiarly pleasant flavor, and 
 is used as an almost indispensable accompaniment 
 to the buckwheat cakes of our winter tables. 
 
 The refining process is not always carried to 
 its full extent, a series of qualities being pro- 
 duced by subjecting the crude sugar to only one 
 or more of the operations described. We thus 
 have certain kinds known as half-refined sugars, 
 which are between the crude and loaf varieties 
 in point of purity. 
 
 The principal kinds usually found in our retail 
 stores are : 
 
 I. — Loaf Sugar. — This is the purest of all 
 varieties, great care being taken to remove the last 
 trace of uncrystallizable syrup and coloring matter. 
 
SUGAR. 47 
 
 It is very white and hard, and is almost chemi- 
 cally pure cane sugar. 
 
 II. — Crushed Sugar. — For all practical pur- 
 poses this quality is as good as the above. 
 All the steps in the refining process are passed 
 through in its manufacture, save possibly a little 
 less care may be bestowed in obtaining that uni- 
 form whiteness so essential to the fine appearance 
 of the loaves. It must be remembered that this 
 variety is also first formed in loaves, which are 
 afterward broken into irregular fragments, or 
 sawn into small cubes. 
 
 III. — Granulated Sugar. — This variety dif- 
 fers from the above only in appearance, it being 
 prepared in the form of hard grains or small 
 crystals, giving it the appearance of coarse powder. 
 
 IV. — Pulverized Sugar. — This is in the 
 form of a fine white powder. It is prepared by 
 grinding the crushed or granulated sugar to the 
 requisite degree of fineness. One variety, not 
 commonly sold in grocery stores, is the icing or 
 lozenge sugar, prepared expressly for the use of 
 confectioners. It is simply a much finer form of 
 ground sugar. 
 
48 IfOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 V. — The partially refined Sugars of 
 
 VARIOUS GRADES, KNOWN AS COFFEE SUGAR, A, 
 
 B, AND C Sugars, or by the Special Brand 
 OF Individual Refiners. — These sugars vary in 
 color from a light brown to a nearly pure white, 
 but are coarse-grained and moist, from the re- 
 tention of a portion of the syrupy portions. They 
 have more or less flavor, which is not unpleasant 
 for many household purposes, but which unfits 
 them for use in some confections, but is no det- 
 riment to their use in candies which are strongly 
 flavored. 
 
 Action of Heat on Sugar. — In order 
 to practically understand the philosophy of candy- 
 making, and to obtain accurate information 
 regarding the modification which sugar undergoes 
 when heated, it will be interesting to take a 
 small quantity of crushed sugar, and placing 
 it in a clean brass or tinned kettle with a little 
 water, over a brisk fire, note the distinctive 
 changes which the application of different degrees 
 of heat will cause it to assume. At first we shall 
 see the lumps of sugar softening and breaking up, 
 and as the heat increases, entirely disappearing, a 
 
SUGAR. 4c> 
 
 transparent solution being the result, more or less 
 thick according to the respective proportions of 
 the sugar and water. We have now a simple so- 
 lution of sugar in water, which, when made in 
 the proportion of ten or twelve pounds of sugar 
 to a gallon of water, is rightly termed in phar- 
 macy, simple syrup. 
 
 If our heat be now increased so that the syrup 
 boils, of course, with the evaporation of each par- 
 ticle of water, the remaining liquid becomes more 
 dense until it reaches a point where not enough 
 water remains to hold the sugar in perfect solu- 
 tion. If it now be set aside and allowed to cool 
 gradually, the excess of sugar will deposit itself 
 in large transparent crystals on the sides and bot-- 
 tom of the vessel, and we shall have it in the 
 form usually known as rock-candy. If instead of 
 setting the solution aside for the crystals to form, 
 we continue the boiling, nearly all the water will 
 soon evaporate, and the sugar will manifest a ten- 
 dency to assume a granular condition, especially 
 upon the sides of the vessel. A few degrees more 
 of heat beyond this point, and we have the sugar 
 in a melted form, of a thick, pasty consistence, 
 but clear and transparent still. 
 3 
 
so 
 
 HO IV TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 If we dip a spoon into the mass and with- 
 draw it, a long thread of the melted sugar will 
 follow, and if the portion removed be plunged 
 into cold water, it will at once become hard and 
 brittle as a pipestem. It has now reached that 
 condition where the confectioner by a few simple 
 manipulations can produce very many* changes in 
 its form and appearance, and it is from sugar 
 while in just this state that the greater number of 
 our candies are produced. But just here we must 
 be exceedingly careful in the management of our 
 heat. If that is now allowed to increase but a 
 little, the mass becomes quickly very dark colored, 
 froths up in the vessel, acquires a bitter taste, and 
 is no more fit to use as a confection. Several 
 technical names are applied by the confectioner to 
 the different degrees of heat to which the syrup 
 is raised in the various operations of candy-making. . 
 Thus we have the "thread," or 230° by the ther- 
 mometer, the "feather," or 235°, the "ball," or 
 240°, and the "crack," or 250°. After the last 
 comes the caramel at 260°, when the sugar 
 changes its character and becomes very dark col-' 
 ored, as before described. The greatest skill on 
 the part of the operator is required to push the 
 
SUGAR. 51 
 
 heat of the boiling sugar just as near the point of 
 this change as possible without quite reaching it. 
 Prac'tically, the greater part of our hard-boiled 
 candies are made at about 250° of heat. 
 
 If made at a degree much less than this they 
 soften or change in structure, while the nearer the 
 heat can be carried to 260° the longer -do they 
 retain their hardness and transparency, if of a 
 class in which the latter quality is desirable. 
 
 It is not necessary for our purpose in this 
 work to dwell minutely upon the tests and char- 
 acteristics of the various degrees in a separate 
 paragraph. Special directions will be given regard- 
 ing the proper degree of heat for each variety, 
 when necessary, and it is believed that such 
 directions will be found of more practical applica- 
 tion than an attempt to refer constantly to general 
 principles. The latter method would perhaps be 
 more scientific, but the former will certainly prevent 
 any misunderstanding, even if a certain amount of 
 repetition is necessitated. 
 
 For boiling sugar, the confectioner has pans 
 of various sizes, especially adapted to his wants. 
 The directions hereafter given will, however, be 
 followed mostly by those who desire to prepare 
 
52 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 the different sweets in small quantities only, for 
 their own use, or to supply the demand of the 
 home circle. At the present day hardly* a 
 kitchen will be found without some cooking uten- 
 sil which may be conveniently used for the purpose 
 described. A sauce-pan of tinned iron with a 
 handle and flaring sides, and a lip to facilitate 
 the pouring of the contents, will be found best 
 adapted for such use. An ordinary iron pot, with 
 rounded bottom, will answer very well, but is apt 
 to discolor the candy, besides, being generally 
 quite thick, the heat will oftentimes be retained 
 too long and the sugar become burned, even after 
 removal from the fire. A small brass kettle will 
 do very well if kept quite clean and bright. The 
 porcelain-lined preserving kettles are especially 
 well fitted to be used in boiling sugar, so far as 
 cleanliness and freedom from burning is concerned. 
 The high heat to which they are subjected tends, 
 however, to crack the porcelain lining, especially 
 if the kettle is placed suddenly in cold water, as 
 is sometimes necessary when the heat of the boil- 
 ing sugar has been carried to the last degree, and 
 the heat of the vessel must be immediately reduced 
 to prevent burning. All things considered, the 
 
CANDY FROM BOILED SUGAR e, 
 
 ordinary saucepan of tinned iron will be found 
 most convenient when but a small quantity is to 
 be treated. 
 
 Candies from Boiled Sugar.— No matter 
 how great a diversity of form, flavor, and general 
 appearance may characterize candies of this class, 
 the first step in the process of their manufacture 
 IS the same. This consists in bringing the sugar 
 to the state of a soft transparent mass of a 
 doughy texture, in which condition it may, by 
 different modes of treatment, be compelled to 
 assume many varying forms. This result may be 
 accomplished as follows. Take three and one-half 
 pounds of refined sugar," one and one-half pints 
 of water, and one teaspoonful of cream of tartar. 
 The latter is added for its peculiar effect assist- 
 ing greatly to prevent the tendency which sugar 
 always has when boiled to assume the granular 
 condition. Mix in a vessel sufficiently large to 
 allow for the expansion of the boiling candy, 
 that the boiHng process may go on uninterruptedly 
 without any danger of the contents running over 
 the sides of the vessel. Boil over a brisk fire, 
 taking care, however, that the sugar does not 
 
54 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 burn. The heat should be apph"ed to the bottom 
 only, and not to the sides of the vessel, as in the 
 latter instance, small portions of the sugar may be- 
 come burned, and impart an unpleasant taste to 
 the rest. 
 
 After boiling for about fifteen minutes, a small 
 portion of the melted sugar may be removed 
 with a spoon and cooled by placing in a saucer 
 surrounded by cold water. If when cooled it 
 forms a viscid, tenacious mass, and if a portion 
 taken between the thumb and finger forms a long 
 adherent thread when the thumb and finger are 
 separated, the process of boiling is nearly com- 
 pleted, and great care must be used in the further 
 management of the heat, enough being supplied to 
 keep up the boiling without allowing the sugar to 
 be burned. 
 
 It must now be tested every few minutes by 
 dropping a small portion into some cold water 
 standing conveniently near. When the portion so 
 dropped becomes at once hard and brittle, snap- 
 ping apart like a pipe-stem when bent, the pro- 
 cess is completed, and the vessel should at once 
 be lifted from the heat. We now have our sugar 
 in a proper condition to be flavored, colored, and 
 
FORMING INTO STICKS. 55 
 
 formed into sticks, bars, drops, or lumps as de- 
 sired. It is next poured into shallow earthen 
 dishes, which have previously been slightly greased, 
 large dinner-plates or pie-platters serving for this 
 purpose, and allowed to cool to a degree at which 
 it can be handled without discomfort. Confection- 
 ers employ for this purpose a smooth marble slab 
 with movable sides, arranged in such a way that, 
 if necessary, it may be kept warm with steam heat. 
 If a transparent form of candy is desired, the va- 
 rious flavoring and coloring ingredients are now 
 incorporated with as little handling as possible, 
 and when the mass has cooled sufficiently to retain 
 any shape which may be given it, the forming pro- 
 cesses commence. These are performed partly by 
 hand, and in the larger establishments partly by 
 machinery especially adapted to the purpose. 
 These processes consist chiefly of the following 
 operations : 
 
 Forming into Sticks. — If flat sticks are 
 wanted, it is only necessary to flavor and color the 
 mass, and pour while soft on square tin trays to 
 a depth as great as the thickness of the sticks. 
 When cool enough to retain its shape it is creased 
 
56 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 with a spatula or knife, which is passed nearly- 
 through to the bottom of the tray, making it into 
 squares or lengths as wanted. When entirely 
 cooled the sticks will separate by a light stroke 
 in the lines marked by the knife. 
 
 If rounded sticks are to be made, the flavored 
 mass when cool enough to retain its shape, and 
 yet warm enough to be moulded, is rolled by the 
 hands into a cylindrical form, which is drawn 
 down to the proper diameter by continued pulling 
 from one end of the rounded mass, and cut in 
 sticks of the proper length. 
 
 Drops. — This form of candy may be made by 
 hand, by giving the mass a slightly oval shape 
 and drawing it out as for sticks. The drops are 
 cut off with a quick blow of a sharp knife, from 
 the end of the stick as fast as it is drawn out. 
 Machines are made for this purpose which consist 
 of two revolving cylinders, with depressions on 
 each side so arranged that as the cylinders revolve 
 these indentations come exactly opposite each other; 
 and the soft candy being forced therein by the 
 turning of the moulds, is crowded into the spaces, 
 and assumes the particular form which has been 
 
WORKING THE CANDY. 57 
 
 given them. Another form of drop may be pre- 
 pared by pouring out the candy while warm, drop 
 by drop, on a groased plate or sheet of tin. 
 
 Working the Candy. — In the preceding 
 operations, a clear form of candy being desired, 
 as little handling of the transparent mass as pos- 
 sible should be allowed. If a white, opaque candy 
 is required, the mass, after being sufficiently cooled 
 to be easily handled, is pulled back and forth, in 
 the same manner that molasses candy is worked, a 
 process familiar to all. If the mass is large, a 
 hook, similar in appearance to those used in 
 butchers' stalls, is firmly fastened to the side of 
 the work-room, and the candy pulled out, folded, 
 and thrown back over the hook and again pulled, 
 the process being continued until the candy as- 
 sumes .a sufficiently white appearance. It may 
 then be formed in sticks or drops, as before de- 
 scribed. 
 
 In all these operations if the mass becomes 
 too stiff to be properly handled, it may be held 
 near the fire for a few minutes until it becomes 
 softened. The working process should take place 
 in a warm room. 
 
58 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 Striping. — This process is in theory a very- 
 simple one. It requires much experience, however, 
 to overcome many practical difficulties which arise, 
 and to be able to prepare the sticks with regular 
 and well-arranged stripings. It is performed by 
 taking small portions from the warm mass and 
 coloring them any shade desired. These colored 
 portions are then drawn out into coarse but regu- 
 larly shaped strips, which are imbedded lengthwise 
 in the large roll of candy, and being drawn down 
 with it, diminish in size accordingly, until in the 
 finished stick they appear as delicate stripes. A 
 slight twist is sometimes given just before cutting 
 off the stick. The same principle is applied in 
 the manufacture of a form of candy having words, 
 or even short sentences and various ornamental 
 designs, running the entire length of the stick, so 
 that at whatever point it may be broken, the let- 
 ters or designs appear complete. This seemingly 
 mysterious effect is very easily produced. To illus- 
 trate : If the confectioner wishes the letter O to 
 appear in red running through the entire length of 
 a stick of white candy, he will first take a por- 
 tion of the warm white mass and form it in oval 
 shape for the centre. This he will surround 
 
STRIPING. 
 
 evenly with red-colored candy, also in the same 
 condition. Around this he will place a thicker 
 coating of the white mass, which may be striped 
 if desired, and then by rolling the entire lump on 
 a marble slab and drawing it out, all parts of 
 the stick will be equally diminished and retain the 
 form originally given. 
 
 Having thus explained the general methods of 
 preparing the sugar which are employed in the 
 manufacture of all candies of this class, we will 
 proceed to give the special directions required for 
 the various kinds. 
 
 As remarked in the introduction, it must 
 be remembered that the form or ornamentation 
 of the candy by striping or otherwise, does not 
 add to its quality. Lemon candy, for instance, if 
 made from nice sugar and finely flavored, may be 
 left in the trays as poured from the kettle, and 
 when cold broken into lumps for eating; and the 
 taste of candy so made may be even superior to 
 that of more fanciful appearance. In making 
 boiled goods it is not necessary to use the finest 
 loaf or crushed sugar. The better grades of the 
 half refined sugars, such as are free from any de- 
 cided flavor of their own, will answer the purpose 
 
6o HOl^' TO MAKE CAJVDV. 
 
 admirably, and the small portion of uncrystal- 
 lizable sugar or syrup naturally contained in them 
 will rather aid than hinder the production of a 
 hard form of candy, which is not as liable to re- 
 turn to the granular condition as if it were made 
 from a better grade of sugar. 
 
 Lemon Candy. — Into a bright tinned kettle, 
 thoroughly cleansed to free it from grease or odor 
 of vegetables if a kitchen utensil is employed, 
 put three and one half pounds of sugar, one 
 and one-half pints of water, and a full teaspoon- 
 ful of cream of tartar. Place over a hot fire 
 and stir until the lumps disappear. Boil briskly 
 until, by testing as before described, the candy 
 becomes hard and brittle when a little of 
 it is thrown into cold water. Now remove 
 the vessel from the fire and pour the contents 
 on a large earthen platter, previously greased with 
 a little butter. After the candy has cooled suffi- 
 ciently to be handled, and has reached the 
 consistence of ordinary dough, add about a tea- 
 spoonful of finely-powdered tartaric acid, and the 
 same quantity of extract of lemon, and work 
 them into the mass. The acid should be very 
 
LEMON CANDY. 6i 
 
 fine and free from lumps. The mass should be 
 worked enough to distribute the acid and lemon 
 extract evenly, but no more, as too much handling 
 would tend to destroy its transparency. It may now 
 be formed into sticks or drops in the manner pre- 
 viously explained, or spread out flat on tins, in 
 thin sheets, which will easily break as required 
 when cold. We may add just here, that in this 
 and many subsequent operations it will be found 
 extremely convenient to have one or more flat tin 
 trays, made from the largest-sized sheets of tin, 
 and turned up at the edges about a half inch. 
 They should be kept smooth and clean without 
 scraping or scouring, and used instead of the 
 earthen dishes to cool the candy on. 
 
 Lemon candy, thus prepared, is beautifully 
 transparent, and of a very light straw color when 
 freshly made. Some makers add a few drops of 
 tincture of saff'ron just before removing from the 
 fire, which gives a bright yellow color, without 
 diminishing its clearness. It is usually sold in the 
 form of round sticks delicately striped with white, 
 in plain flat sticks, and in drops. After standing for 
 some time, especially if exposed to the air, this can- 
 dy assumes a granular texture and becomes opaque. 
 
62 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 Pineapple, Banana, Raspberry, and 
 Strawberry Candies are prepared in pre- 
 cisely the same manner as lemon, so far as 
 regards the boiling of the sugar and adding of 
 the tartaric acid They are, however, flavored with 
 their respective extracts, and are generally sold by 
 confectioners in the form of drops of varying 
 shapes. The pineapple and banana are colored 
 a bright yellow, and the others a deep red. 
 
 In the large cities the candy flavored with 
 these extracts is often sold in the streets by 
 persons for whom it is made in the form of 
 large lumps, weighing ten or fifteen pounds. Be- 
 ing brightly colored it attracts much attention 
 from children, and the sales of these street ven- 
 ders are often quite extensive. It is broken off 
 in irregular lumps as wanted for use. In moder- 
 ate amounts its use is not particularly harmful, 
 as pure sugar must be used in order to produce 
 its attractive transparency. 
 
 It is, however, strongly flavored with acid and 
 possibly with more hurtful kinds than tartaric 
 acid, which should alone be used. The use of 
 very sour candy, even when pure materials are 
 employed in its preparation, is objectionable on 
 
VARIOUS FLAVORS. (^2, 
 
 account of the stomach derangements which are 
 apt to follow if eaten in any but very moderate 
 amounts. 
 
 Peppermint, Wintergreen, Sassafras, Cin- 
 namon, Rose, Anise, Cloves, and other 
 flavors of Candy require no special directions, 
 the only difference in the methods of their pre- 
 paration being in the flavoring and color. The 
 flavoring is, of course, a matter of taste, the 
 respective -essential oils being employed for this 
 purpose in quantities depending upon the strength 
 of flavor desired. Usually from two to three 
 drams of pure oil will be found sufficient for a 
 three-pound boil. Custom has assigned to the 
 different flavors certain styles of appearance which 
 are generally followed. Thus the first five flavors 
 above mentioned are used with candy which is 
 worked until very white, and formed in sticks 
 with red stripes. Peppermint is usually finished 
 with broad red stripes ; wintergreen, with narrow 
 of the same color. Sassafras has one or two yel- 
 low stripes alternating with the red; while cinna- 
 mon and rose are slightly tinted with red before 
 being worked, leaving the body of the stick a 
 
64 ^OIV TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 bright pink color, which is striped with a deeper 
 shade of red. Anise and clove are usually un- 
 worked and striped with red, or red and white. 
 The process of working the candy, by separating 
 the particles, of course increases its bulk. A 
 stick of worked candy, therefore, while weighing 
 no more than one of the transparent and solid 
 varieties, appears to be much larger, and presents 
 greater attractions to the juvenile mind intent on 
 getting the full value of its penny investment. 
 
 Cream Candy. — The term " cream " is so 
 indiscriminately applied to many styles of candy, 
 that it has almost ceased to have a specific meaning 
 unless in connection with some other explanatory 
 title. 
 
 Just here we mean the varieties sold by that 
 name in large irregularly flattened sticks, with 
 rough and striated surfaces. Its mode of manu- 
 facture does not differ materially from that of the 
 kinds already described, the same materials being 
 employed and in the same proportions. It requires 
 much working, however, and should therefore be 
 made in a warm room, and the mass kept as 
 soft as possible while being handled. Some con- 
 
COCOANUT CANDY. 6^ 
 
 fectioners add a little gum-arabic which serves to 
 prevent the granulation of the sugar and gives a 
 smoothness to the taste of the candy. If used, 
 one quarter ounce of pure white gum may be 
 dissolved in the water used before adding the 
 latter to the sugar. The principal flavors are 
 vanilla, rose, and orange. For vanilla, four or 
 five teaspoonfuls of the strong extract should be 
 used. Rose may be flavored with a i^^ff drops 
 of the pure oil, care being taken to obtain a 
 delicacy rather than an intensity of taste in this 
 flavor. For orange the oil of neroli is used, the 
 precaution just mentioned being observed. Va- 
 nilla cream candy is always left in its natural 
 white condition. Rose is tinted a delicate pink, 
 and orange a pale yellow. 
 
 To make chocolate cream candy of this vari- 
 ety, two ounces of chocolate of the best quality 
 should be finely grated and added during the 
 process of working, with one or two teaspoonfuls 
 of vanilla extract, and not to exceed twenty drops 
 of extract of bitter almond. 
 
 Cocoanut Candy.— This popular and delic- 
 ious confection is easily and cheaply made. First 
 
66 HO W TO MAKE CAND Y. 
 
 prepare the cocoanut by removing the brown skin 
 from the meat of one nut and grating the latter 
 on a coarse grater. Confectioners have a machine 
 for this purpose, by which the cocoanut is re- 
 duced to the form of very thin and narrow slices, 
 but the product is quite as fine when grated. 
 Take three and a half pounds of best crushed 
 sugar, a teaspoonful of cream of tartar, and one 
 and a half pints of water. Boil until the degree 
 termed by confectioners the "feather" is reached, 
 which may be known by dipping a tin skimmer 
 in the sugar, allowing nearly all the syrup to run 
 through, and then blowing hard through the holes. 
 If it has reached this degree the melted sugar 
 will be forced out through the holes of the skim- 
 mer in feathery filaments. Remove from the fire, 
 and when cooled a little commence to rub the 
 syrup with an iron spoon against the sides of 
 the vessel. Soon it will begin to assume a pasty 
 opaque appearance, when the grated cocoanut 
 should be added, and the stirring continued for a 
 few minutes. The soft mass may now be poured 
 into frames to set, or dropped in cakes on flat 
 tins. 
 
 If desired of the bright red color in which 
 
PEPPERMINT DROPS. 67 
 
 it is so often seen, the boiling of the sugar should 
 be continued a few moments longer, and the red 
 coloring described in a former chapter added, be- 
 fore the sugar is cooled and the cocoanut mixed 
 therewith. The brown variety of cocoanut bar is 
 made by using the same quantity of dark brown 
 sugar, with a half pint of molasses, and one pint 
 of water. 
 
 Peppermint Drops. — These are great favo- 
 rites with children, and were it generally known 
 with how much ease they can be made at home, 
 much enjoyment would be afforded the young 
 people by their preparation. 
 
 Take of dry granulated sugar a convenient 
 quantity. Place it in a saucepan having a lip 
 from which the contents may be poured or drop- 
 ped. Add a very little water, just enough to make 
 with the sugar a stiff paste ; two ounces of wa- 
 ter to a pound of sugar is about the right 
 proportion. Set it over the fire and allow it to 
 nearly boil, keeping it continually stirred. It must 
 not actually come to a full boil, but must be re- 
 moved from the fire just as the bubbles denoting 
 that the boiling point is reached begin to rise. Al- 
 
68 HO W TO MAKE CAND V. 
 
 low the syrup to cool a little, stirring all the time, 
 add strong essence of peppermint to suit the taste, 
 and ■ drop on tins or sheets of smooth white pa- 
 per. The dropping is performed by tilting the 
 vessel slightly, so that the contents will slowly run 
 out, and with a small piece of stiff wire the 
 drops may be stroked off on to the tins or paper. 
 They should then be kept in a warm place for a 
 few hours to dry. If desired, a little red coloring 
 may be added just previous to dropping, or a por- 
 tion may be dropped in a plain white form, and 
 the remainder colored. 
 
 There is no reason why peppermint should 
 alone be used with this form of candy, but con- 
 fectioners usually confine themselves to this flavor. 
 Any flavor may be added, and a great variety of 
 palatable sweets made In the same manner. If 
 desired, these drops may be acidulated by the use 
 of a little tartaric acid and flavored with lemon, 
 pineapple, or banana. In the season of fruits, de- 
 licious drops may be made by substituting the 
 juice of fresh fruits, as strawberry, raspberry, etc., 
 for the water, and otherwise proceeding as directed. 
 
MOLASSES CANDY. 69 
 
 Molasses Candy. — This is especially a con- 
 fection for home manufacture. Indeed, the term, 
 " old-fashioned molasses candy," is now employed 
 as a title of merit by the confectioner, to indicate 
 the similarity* of his products with that made by 
 our grandmothers in the days when French bonbojts 
 were a rarity seldom seen outside of the very 
 large cities. Its manufacture was often conducted 
 in the large iron kitchen pot, over a fire of glowing 
 hickory coals, and made the occasion for many 
 merry gatherings. 
 
 " Old-Fashioned " Molasses Candy.— Into 
 
 a kettle holding at least four times the amount of 
 molasses to be used, pour a convenient quantity of 
 good Porto Rico molasses. Place over a slow fire 
 and boil for a half hour, stirring all the time, to 
 diminish as much as possible the increase of bulk 
 caused by boiling, and checking the fire or remov- 
 ing the kettle if there is any danger of the con- 
 tents running over. Be very careful not to let the 
 candy burn, especially near the close of the boil- 
 ing. When a little dropped in cold water becomes 
 quickly hard and snaps apart like a pipestem, 
 add a teaspoon ful of carbonate of soda, free 
 
70 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 from lumps, to every two quarts, stir quickly to 
 mix, and pour on greased platters to cool. When 
 the candy is sufficiently cool to handle without 
 burning the hands, it is pulled back and forth, the 
 hands being rubbed with a little butt'fer to prevent 
 the candy from 'sticking to them. Flour is some- 
 times used for this purpose, but it gives an 
 unpleasant taste to the candy. The more the candy 
 is worked, the lighter it will be in color, but if made 
 from molasses only, it will be of a bright yellowish- 
 brown shade, and never so white as that sold by the 
 confectioners for molasses candy. Frequently some 
 flavor is added, as vanilla or lemon, but the nat- 
 ural flavor of the boiled molasses is generally 
 preferred. 
 
 White Molasses Candy. — Take two pounds 
 of refined sugar of the grade termed by the 
 grocers " Coflee C," one pint of pure sugar-house 
 syrup, and one pint best Porto Rico or New Or- 
 leans molasses. Boil together until it hardens, as 
 before described, when dropped in cold water, add 
 one teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, and work in 
 the usual manner. This style of molasses candy is 
 that made by the large confectioners, and is, in fact, a 
 
TAFFY. 71 
 
 sugar candy flavored a little with molasses. It is 
 essential that the syrup used be that obtained 
 from the draining of loaf sugar in the refining 
 process. Much of the so-called sugar-house syrup 
 is in reality nothing but a syrup of glucose, and 
 is manufactured from starch. It may be known 
 by its dark color and viscid consistence, resem- 
 bling thick mucilage. It is also less sweet to the 
 taste than the pure sugar syrup. 
 
 Taffy. — Either of these two kinds of molasses 
 candy, if poured from the kettle into tin trays 
 without working, will produce a fine, plain taffy. 
 It may be left in one sheet, the size of the tray 
 in which it is poured, or, when slightly cooled, 
 may be marked off in squares. 
 
 Everton Taffy. — This is a favorite English 
 confection. To make it, take three pounds of 
 best brown sugar, and boil with one and one 
 half pints of water, until the candy hardens in 
 cold water. Then add one half pound of sweet- 
 flavored, fresh butter, which will soften the candy. 
 Boil a few minutes until it again hardens, and 
 pour into trays. Flavor with lemon if desired* 
 
72 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 Butter Scotch. — The same as above, for all 
 practical purposes. Some makers, however, sub- 
 stitute molasses, or syrup, in place of the water. 
 Butter Scotch is sometimes imported, at a high 
 price, but the process of its manufacture is very 
 simple. It is generally cut in small squares, each 
 one of which is wrapped in tin foil, and twelve 
 or more of these wrapped in one packet. 
 
 Walnut Candy. — The meats of hickory nuts, 
 English walnuts, or black walnuts may be used, 
 according to preference in that regard. After 
 removal from the shells in as large pieces as prac- 
 ticable, they are to be placed on the bottoms of 
 tins, previously greased, to the depth of about a 
 half inch. Next boil two pounds of brown sugar, 
 a half pint of water, and one gill of good mo- 
 lasses until a portion of the mass hardens when 
 cooled. Pour the hot candy on the meats and 
 allow it to remain until hard. Of course it is 
 needless to direct regarding the proportion of 
 meats to the candy, it being a matter of taste 
 entirely. Molasses alone may be used to prepare 
 the candy, but the use of sugar gives a more sat- 
 isfactory result. 
 
CHOCOLATE CARAMELS. 73 
 
 Peanut Candy. — Prepare the meats by re- 
 moving the thin reddish skin in which they are 
 enveloped, and fill a tin tray to the depth of 
 about an inch. Pour over them the hot candy, 
 made as above directed, stirring the meats that 
 each one may be covered. A little less candy 
 should be used than will suffice to entirely cover 
 the mass of meats, though each separate one 
 should be coated, the object being to use just 
 enough of the candy to cause the meats to adhere 
 firmly to each other, thus forming a large cake, 
 which when nearly cold may be divided in squares 
 or bars with a sharp knife. Almonds, deprived of 
 their skins, or the meats of any nuts may be used 
 in a similar manner. 
 
 Chocolate Caramels. — Boil one quart of good 
 
 New Orleans molasses until it hardens when tested 
 by cooling a little of it in water as before de- 
 scribed. Just before removal from the fire add 
 four ounces of chocolate finely and uniformly grated. 
 Pour a thin layer into tin trays slightly greased, 
 and when the surface of the candy has become 
 hardened a little, mark with a knife into squares, 
 These caramels may be flavored with vanilla or 
 
 4 
 
74 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 almond if desired, but the natural flavor of the 
 chocolate and molasses is generally preferred with- 
 out addition. 
 
 Corn Balls. — The method of preparing these 
 popular articles is a very easy one, the popped 
 kernels of corn being simply united by some 
 sweet adherent material and formed in the 
 shape of balls. The candy for this purpose does 
 not need to be boiled until hard, but just 
 enough to acquire sufficient firmness to hold the 
 corns without separating. Sometimes a little gum 
 is added, especially if a fine white appearance of 
 the ball is desired. In such cases the following 
 directions will be found to produce a fine article. 
 Add one ounce of white gum arable to a half 
 pint of water and let it stand until dissolved. 
 Strain, add one pound of refined sugar, and boil 
 until when cooled it becomes very thick, so much 
 so as to be stirred with difficulty. To ascertain 
 when it has reached this point, a little may be 
 cooled in a saucer. A convenient quantity of the^ 
 freshly popped corn having been placed in a large 
 milkpan, enough of the warm syrupy candy is 
 poured on and mixed by stirring, to cause the 
 
HOREHOUND CANDY. 75 
 
 kernels to adhere in a mass, portions of which 
 may be formed into balls by pressing them into 
 the proper shape with the hands. 
 
 Ordinary molasses or sugar-house syrup may be 
 used as well, by being boiled to the same degree, 
 no gum being necessary with these materials. 
 Most of the corn balls sold by pedlers are thus 
 made, the flavor of the cooked molasses combining 
 very agreeably with that of the corn. 
 
 Corn cake is' prepared in a similar manner, 
 the popped corn being finely divided by machinery, 
 and made into a mass with boiled molasses. This 
 mass while warm is pressed by heavy rollers into 
 thin sheets, which are afterwards divided into small 
 square cakes. 
 
 Horehound Candy. — In the form of flat 
 sticks and drops this candy is sold in large quan- 
 tities, on account of its supposed efficacy as a 
 remedy for coughs. It is undoubtedly a pleasant 
 palliative in such complaints, and its continued use 
 leads to the inference that its virtues have favora- 
 bly stood the test of experience. It is very easily 
 made, and the preparation of a supply for use 
 during the season when colds and bronchial 
 
76 
 
 HO W TO MAKE CAND Y. 
 
 complaints are prevalent, will form a pleasant 
 occupation for the cold evenings of early winter. 
 To make it, first prepare a strong decoction 
 by boiling two ounces of the dried herb in 
 a pint and a half of water for about half an 
 hour. This decoction is then strained and added 
 to three and one half pounds of brown sugar. 
 Boil over a hot fire until it reaches the requisite 
 degree of hardness, when it may be poured out 
 in flat tin trays, previously well greased and 
 marked into sticks or small squares with a knife 
 as it becomes cool enough to retain its shape. 
 
 Cough Candy. — So many varieties of candy 
 under this name are in the market, that it would be 
 a difficult task to describe their points of difference. 
 They are all, however, prepared from brown sugar, 
 boiled as described in the last paragraph, using 
 water instead of the decoction. 
 
 They are flavored or medicated with camphor, 
 anise, cayenne pepper, and peppermint, in varying 
 proportions to suit the taste of the maker, and 
 are usually sent out in the form of drops in small 
 packages. 
 
 In some cases the mass is worked and drawn 
 
COUGH CANDY, 
 
 77 
 
 out in rolls, which are wrapped singly in circulars 
 extolling the efficacy of the candy enclosed, as a 
 sovereign remedy for every form of throat and lung 
 complaint. The real virtues possessed by such 
 candies are naturally greatly overrated by the 
 manufacturers. As a simple remedy, to relieve the 
 irritation arising from a slightly inflamed condition 
 of those portions of the throat which are within 
 reach of their action, such candies may at times 
 serve a valuable purpose, and by subduing the 
 tendency to cough, give the organs time to re- 
 cover their natural tone. It would be very unsafe, 
 however, to trust solely to their curative powers 
 in the case of a hard cold affecting the throat or 
 lungs. The following directions for preparing one 
 form of this candy will serve as a guide in all 
 cases, the difference being only in the quantity or 
 kinds of the flavoring ingredients. Boil three and 
 one half pounds of ordinary brown sugar with 
 one and a half pints of water until it hardens 
 when tested in the usual way. To this add, 
 just prior to removal from the fire, a tincture 
 prepared thus : To one half ounce of strong al- 
 cohol add one dram of camphor gum, when 
 dissolved add two drams oil of anise, four drams 
 
78 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 strong tincture of capsicum, one dram benzoic 
 acid. 
 
 Another very popular form of cough candy is 
 prepared by making a decoction, by boiling two 
 ounces of boneset and one half ounce of ground 
 bloodroot in a pint and a half of water, and 
 using this decoction with three and one-half pounds 
 of brown sugar, in the same manner as directed 
 for horehound candy. When about to be poured 
 out in trays or worked, it may be flavored with 
 oil of anise. 
 
 Cream Bonbons. 
 
 In a former paragraph the indiscriminate 
 use of the term " cream " by confectioners 
 was referred to. The employment of this 
 term for the class of goods the manufacture 
 of which we are about to describe, is, how- 
 ever, perfectly legitimate, the sugar being prepared 
 in such a manner that it has a rich "creamy" 
 taste, melting in the mouth like the delicious sub- 
 stance from which it is named. From sugar thus 
 prepared the choicest and highest-priced confec- 
 tions are made. The different kinds which may 
 be produced by variations in form, color, and fla- 
 
''CREAMING'' THE SUGAR. 79 
 
 vor, are almost innumerable, and are constantly- 
 being changed to suit the popular desire for 
 novelties, but the groundwork of all these trans- 
 formations, that is, the special treatment of the 
 sugar, remains the same. To this treatment, there- 
 fore, attention is first invited. 
 
 " Creaming " the Sugar. — Take one pound 
 of best loaf or crushed sugar, a small teaspoonful 
 of pure acetic acid, or a half teaspoonful of 
 cream of tartar and a gill and a half of water. 
 Place over a brisk fire and boil to what is termed 
 the "thread" degree, that is, to about 235° by 
 the thermometer. This degree may be ascertained 
 sufficiently for all practical purposes, by removing 
 a small portion of the boiling sugar, cooling it in 
 a saucer, and testing by dipping in it the thumb 
 and finger; if on separating them the syrup is 
 thick enough to be drawn out in the form of a 
 long thread without breaking, the boiling is suffi- 
 ciently advanced. Now set the syrup aside and 
 let it cool a little, say for fifteen minutes. The 
 creaming is next produced by rubbing the syrup 
 against the sides of the vessel with a large wooden 
 spoon. At first no effect may be perceptible, but 
 
8o HO W TO MAKE CAND V. 
 
 by continuing the process the syrup begins to 
 lose its transparency and becomes opaque and 
 white at the side where it is being rubbed. As 
 fast as each portion passes into this condition it 
 is stirred into the mass and the rubbing process 
 continued, until at last the entire mass has become 
 of a beautifully white and creamy texture. 
 
 This process is usually conducted by confec- 
 tioners on a large marble slab, slightly warmed, 
 the syrup being poured thereon and rubbed back 
 and forth with long spatulas. After this gran- 
 ular, creamy condition has been produced, the 
 sugar may be thinned, if necessary, with a very 
 little water, that it may drop more readily into the 
 moulds. The water must, however, be added only 
 a few drops at a time, as it is an easy matter to 
 get the inass too soft. Usually the flavoring liquids 
 will be sufficient. The sugar thus prepared is now 
 ready to be colored, flavored, and formed in the 
 many varying styles which have been devised by 
 the ingenuity of confectioners. 
 
 Starch Moulds — Owing to the peculiar soft- 
 ness and lack of adherence of the sugar in the 
 creamy state, a special treatment is necessary in 
 
STARCH MOULDS. 8i 
 
 forming it into any desired shape. If cast in or- 
 dinary moulds, the bonbons could not easily be 
 extracted without breaking. To remedy this diffi- 
 culty, temporary moulds are constructed of finely- 
 powdered starch, which substance, being still less 
 adhesive than the sugar, may easily be removed 
 when the latter has received its shape. This pro- 
 cess differs from other modes of casting in moulds 
 in that the latter are in this instance removed 
 from the objects cast, while usually the reverse is 
 the case, the objects cast being taken from the 
 moulds. 
 
 The construction of these starch moulds is 
 very simple, requiring no utensils but those found 
 in general household use, or which may readily be 
 extemporized from a shallow tin tray or wooden 
 box. The best form is a square wooden tray, two 
 or three inches in depth, which is filled with finely- 
 powdered starch, the top of which is smoothed even 
 with the sides of the tray. A number of pieces 
 of wood or plaster models of the exact size and 
 shape of the articles to be cast are fastened at 
 regular distances from each other on a flat board. 
 By pressing these forms firmly upon the surface of 
 the powdered starch, indentations of corresponding 
 4* 
 
82 HO W TO MAKE CAND V. 
 
 shape are of course produced therein, and the 
 starch is sufficiently firm to retain the shape of 
 these indentations when filled with the liquid 
 sugar. 
 
 After the sugar has set and become firm 
 enough to retain its form without breaking if care- 
 fully handled, the bonbons may be lifted from the 
 starch by running the fingers underneath, or starch 
 and all may be placed in a coarse sieve, which 
 being gently shaken will allow the fine dry starch 
 to fall through, leaving the bonbons on the sieve. 
 They are next allowed to harden slightly on the 
 surface, by exposure to the air in a dry place, 
 and are then ready to be covered with crystallized 
 sugar, or other materials, if desired. 
 
 Crystallizing — This process consists in de- 
 positing a coating of fine crystals of pure sugar 
 upon the surface of the bonbons, thereby giving 
 them a finer appearance, and, by protecting them 
 from the air, causing them to retain their mois- 
 ture for a much longer time. It really adds little 
 to the fine taste of these confections, and may be 
 dispensed with when they are made for home use 
 only. The process is a simple one, but requires 
 
CRYSTALLIZING. %^ 
 
 some little care to ensure uniform results. It may- 
 be conducted as follows. To two pounds of sugar 
 add one half pint of water. Boil until the sugar 
 is entirely dissolved. The articles to be crystallized 
 are to be placed on wire frames in a tin box 
 and entirely covered with the above prepared syrup, 
 to which, just before pouring into the box, should 
 be added one ounce of pure alcohol. 
 
 The whole should be kept at a moderately 
 warm tei^iperature, say about 70°, and allowed to 
 remain undisturbed for ten or twelve hours. 
 Near the end of this time the goods should be 
 examined, and if sufficiently crystallized, the super- 
 fluous syrup may be drained off. 
 
 They are then dried by a gentle heat and are 
 ready for use. The principle upon which this pro- 
 cess is conducted may be easily understood. 
 Water, when cold, will of course retain only a 
 certain amount of sugar in solution. If heated, 
 however, a much larger proportion of sugar may 
 be introduced, which will be retained in solution 
 so long as the high temperature is maintained. 
 When the syrup begins to cool the particles of 
 sugar which can no longer be held therein, assum- 
 ing a crystalline form are deposited on the 
 
84 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 surfaces of the bonbons or other articles which 
 may be ready to receive them. The addition of 
 the alcohol still further diminishes the solvent 
 power of the syrup and tends to hasten the pro- 
 cess. If very fine crystals are desired, its use is 
 not recommended. 
 
 Lemon Bonbons. — To one pound of sugar 
 brought to a " creamy " condition in the manner 
 described, add the very finely grated outer peel of 
 three or four average sized lemons, and enough of 
 the juice to impart a pleasant acid taste. The 
 juice of one lemon will usually suffice for this 
 purpose. The outer yellow rind only should bQ 
 used, rejecting the white and bitter inner portion. 
 Mix thoroughly with the sugar and drop into the 
 depressions in the starch moulds. Allow the bon- 
 bons to remain in the moulds until hardened suf- 
 ficiently on the outside to be removed without 
 breaking, then take them carefully away and allow 
 them to remain for twenty-four hours in a moder- 
 ately warm place. They rnay then be crystallized. 
 
 Orange Bonbons.— Prepare as above, using 
 only thoroughly ripened oranges. Those with a 
 
BONBONS. 85 
 
 bright yellow rind are to be preferred, as their rich 
 color adds greatly to the appearance of the bon- 
 bons. Both lemon and orange bonbons may be 
 prepared by using their respective flavoring extracts 
 and a little citric or tartaric acid, but they are not 
 as fine as when made directly from the fruit. 
 
 Chocolate Bonbons. — To one pound of the 
 creamed sugar, add two ounces of finely grated 
 chocolate of gocJd quality, or the chocolate may be 
 melted over boiling water and added to the sugar, 
 any lumps being rubbed out against the sides of 
 the vessel. 
 
 Flavor with vanilla or bitter almond extracts. 
 The latter should be used only sparingly, ten to 
 fifteen drops of extract being sufficient to flavor 
 a pound of sugar. 
 
 Almond Bonbons. — Remove the skins from 
 four ounces of almonds, by dipping them for a 
 moment in boiling water, which will cause the 
 skins to come off readily when rubbed. Pound the 
 white meats to a paste in a mortar, and add to 
 the creamed sugar. A few drops of bitter almond 
 extract will improve the flavor. 
 
86 HO W TO MAKE CAND V. 
 
 Walnut Bonbons. — Four ounces of walnut 
 meats are to be very finely chopped — not pounded 
 — and incorporated with a pound of the cream. 
 The meats of other nuts may be prepared in the 
 same manner and added. 
 
 Other Flavors. — It hardly seems necessary to 
 give specific directions for each flavor, after the 
 above illustrations, the same general course being 
 pursued in each instance. The variations which 
 may be produced are almost innumerable, yet af- 
 ter all consist in the incorporation of different 
 flavoring materials with the prepared sugar in 
 quantities depending upon the taste of the 
 maker. For this purpose may be used the various 
 flavoring extracts and the juices of fruits. The 
 flavors of some of the latter are however hardly 
 intense enough to communicate a pleasant taste, 
 unless used in such quantities as will reduce the 
 consistence of the sugar too much. The pulps 
 of. fruits made by boiling them with a little 
 sugar and passing through a fine sieve, are well 
 adapted for this purpose. Of such, raspberry, 
 strawberry, and plum, make the choicest bonbons. 
 
 Coloring the Bonbons. — This may be done 
 
CHOCOLATE CREAM DROPS. 87 
 
 by using any of the colors described in a previous 
 chapter.. Frequently two colors are used in the 
 same bonbon. In this case, the indentations in 
 the mould are first only partly filled with the 
 sugar of one color, over which that of another 
 color is poured. 
 
 Chocolate Cream Drops. — From the entire 
 list of delicacies prepared by the confectioner 
 none can be selected which are more generally 
 liked than these. The retail prices asked for the 
 better qualities are, however, exorbitant, and tend 
 much to limit the consumption. There is no good 
 reason why such high prices should be asked. The 
 finest quality of plain chocolate should be ob- 
 tained for less than fifty cents per pound, and as 
 this substance is used only as a covering for the 
 cream and constitutes only about one-fifth of the 
 weight of the finished drops, the rest being sugar 
 at a much less price, the actual cost, aside from the 
 labor employed in their fabrication, ought not to ex- 
 ceed twenty-five or thirty cents a pound. These 
 prices refer to the finer grades, which are sold at 
 from eighty cents to one dollar or over per 
 pound, according to the location, fashionable or 
 
88 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 otherwise, of the vender. For the common vari- 
 eties the cost is much less, large quantities of 
 starch and other more objectionable adulterants 
 being introduced. The popularity of these confec- 
 tions and the extreme ease with which they may 
 be prepared by even the most inexperienced ama- 
 teur confectioners, should tend to render their 
 manufacture a favorite pastime for all lovers of 
 pleasant and practical home amusements. Aside 
 from the great saving in cost when so prepared, 
 the entire freedom from adulteration should be 
 something of an inducement for undertaking their 
 manufacture. The process of such manufacture 
 may be divided into two steps : First, the forma- 
 tion of the "cream;" second, the covering oif the 
 same with the chocolate. 
 
 Preparation of the " Cream." — The process 
 given in a former paragraph relating to cream 
 bonbons, is the one usually employed by con- 
 fectioners who have proper facilities for preparing 
 it on a large scale. The product is no better, 
 however, if as good, as that made in the man- 
 ner to be described, but is somewhat more 
 economically obtained, when thus manufactured in 
 
PREPARATION OF THE ''CREAMS 89 
 
 large quantities, from the fact that less manual 
 labor is needed in bringing the creams to their 
 proper shape. When so made the drops are formed 
 in starch moulds, and are somewhat more uniform 
 in size and shape than when made by hand only. 
 To prepare a delicious " cream " in a very simple 
 manner, it is only necessary to properly mix the 
 white of eggs with sugar and flavoring materials. 
 To be specific, the following directions are given, 
 the quantities named being, of course, subject to such 
 variation in amount as may be desired. Take the 
 white of one egg, beat it to a froth, adding an 
 equal bulk of water at the last. Into this stir 
 with a stiff spoon enough fine sugar to make a 
 doughy mass, sufficiently firm to retain its shape 
 when moulded with the hands. Another method 
 is to mix the paste of a somewhat thinner 
 consistence, just thick enough to pass readily 
 through the mouth of a biscuit forcer when pressed. 
 This tool may be readily extemporized by fastening 
 firmly a conical bag of very close-textured cloth 
 around a short tin tube. The bag being filled, 
 with the paste and drawn together at the top, a 
 gentle pressure will force the paste through the 
 tube. As it is forced out, the drops may be cut 
 
po HO W TO MAKE CAND V. 
 
 off with a thin knife and dropped on a tin. Any 
 desired flavor may be imparted by adding of the 
 proper extract to suit the taste. It will be ob- 
 served that the adhesiveness of the white of the 
 egg is lessened by the addition of water. The 
 object of this is that only sufficient adhesion of the 
 particles of sugar may be produced to cause the 
 paste to retain its shape until covered with the 
 chocolate. If too much material of a gummy 
 character is mixed with the sugar, the cream will 
 become hard and brittle, thus entirely losing its 
 distinctive character. The sugar used must be 
 very fine. The kind used in the manufacture of 
 lozenges and described in the paragraph relating to 
 those confections, is the only kind which will af- 
 ford entirely satisfactory results. If it cannot 
 readily be procured, the ordinary pulverized sugar 
 of the grocer may be sifted and only the finer 
 portion used. A very passable cream may be 
 made by using such sugar in the state in which 
 it is ordinarily sold, but the grain is too coarse 
 •to give the peculiar smoothness which is the 
 chief characteristic of this confection. 
 
 Covering with Chocolate. — After mixing the 
 
COVERING WITH CHOCOLATE. 91 
 
 sugar as just described, it is to be formed with 
 the hands into a uniformly tenacious mass, from 
 which small portions may be detached with the 
 thumb and finger and formed into little balls or. 
 conical-shaped drops, or a portion may be rolled 
 out on a board and pieces cut off and formed as 
 desired. These little balls of cream are placed as 
 fast as formed on a plate or sheet of tin, slightly 
 oiled, and allowed to harden slightly on the sur- 
 face. A half hour will generally be sufficient 
 time to allow for this purpose. 
 
 The preparation of the chocolate covering is 
 very simple, and is performed by placing a cake of 
 the best plain chocolate in an ordinary tin sauce- 
 pan, and setting the same into a kettle of boiling 
 water. No water need be added to the chocolate, 
 but under the influence of the heat thus applied, the 
 latter will slowly melt and become of a thick fluid 
 consistence. 
 
 The balls of cream may now be introduced one 
 or two at a time, and rolled in the chocolate for a 
 moment until ent^'rely covered. They are then to be 
 lifted by means of a fork, held for a moment that 
 the superfluous chocolate may drop back, and then 
 placed on a plate or tin slightly greased, and al- 
 
92 
 
 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 lowed to remain until cold. The entire process 
 of making several pounds of chocolate creams 
 need not occupy over an hour. A half pound 
 cake of chocolate will be sufficient to cover two 
 pounds of the creams. 
 
 The drops thus prepared will be found to be 
 far superior to those usually sold, if a fine quality 
 of chocolate be employed for the covering. The 
 finest drops, made by the Broadway confectioners, 
 are covered with chocolate which is sweetened and 
 flavored with vanilla. They have a delicious fla- 
 vor, and although really costing less, from the fact 
 that a less quantity of chocolate is used, sell for 
 a higher price than the plain drops. 
 
 The chocolate with which they are covered is 
 thus prepared. Take half a pound of the best 
 quality of chocolate, place it in a pan over boil- 
 ing water, and when softened by the heat add 
 half an ounce of gum arabic, previously dissolved 
 in two tablespoonfuls of hot water; stir the choc- 
 olate and gum together, until the mixture is 
 perfectly smooth, then add four ounces of fine 
 icing sugar, work it in well, flavor with a little 
 strong vanilla extract, and cover the cream balls 
 as before described. The cream may, of course, 
 
CREAM WALNUTS. 93 
 
 be modified in flavor by the introduction of any 
 of the flavoring ingredients mentioned in the par- 
 agraph on cream bonbons. 
 
 It should be remembered, however, that all 
 ■flavors will not pleasingly combine with that of 
 chocolate. Vanilla ^d bitter almonds are the 
 ones most used for this purpose. 
 
 Cream Almonds.— The cream having been 
 prepared as described for the chocolate drops, is 
 formed by the hand around the meats of the 
 almonds, which may be covered to any thickness 
 as desired. If rolled while moist in very fine gran- 
 ulated sugar, the outside will present a crystallized 
 appearance, or they may be allowed to harden on 
 the outside, and crystallized in a solution of sugar, 
 in the ordinary manner. 
 
 Cream Walnuts.— The meats of the English 
 walnut having been removed from the carefully 
 cracked nuts in such a manner that the separate 
 halves remain unbroken, form by the addition of 
 the prepared cream, a fine confection. For this 
 purpose the cream should be made of a thick, 
 pasty consistence, not so firm as when used for 
 
94 HO W TO MAKE CAND Y. 
 
 the confections just described. When so prepared, 
 a portion is spread with a knife on the inner sur- 
 face of a half meat and another half pressed 
 upon it. Just enough of the cream should be 
 used that the meats may be firmly imbedded 
 therein, without being covered. The meats of the 
 hickory nut may be used ' m the same manner. 
 The cream should be flavored only a very little, 
 vanilla being best suited to combine well with 
 the natural taste of the walnut. 
 
 Gum Drops. — When Gum Arabic is dissolved 
 in water, and the mucilage thus formed is exposed 
 to the air ; by the evaporation of a portion of the 
 water a hard crust of gum forms on the surface 
 of the mixture, which tends to prevent any further 
 evaporation, and the inside portion will consequently 
 remain in a liquid state for a long time. In a 
 similar way are made the favorite confections 
 known as gum drops, which are simply a mixture 
 of gum arabic and sugar, flavored in various ways, 
 and formed into small conical shaped drops, the 
 outside of which becoming slightly hardened, 
 causes the inside to remain in that soft condition 
 which is characteristic of this confection. The 
 
GUM DROPS. 95 
 
 addition of the sugar, besides being necessary on 
 account of its sweetness, prevents the gum from 
 assuming that condition of flinty hardness which 
 it would otherwise do, and renders it softer and 
 more soluble in the mouth. 
 
 Gum Drops can very easily be manufactured 
 by the " home talent " of any intelligent household. 
 To prepare the mixture of gum and sugar, take 
 one pound of good gum arable and dissolve it in 
 one and a half pints of water. Strain, and add 
 one pound of refined sugar. Heat until the sugar 
 is entirely dissolved. The mixture should be evap- 
 orated until of the consistence of very thick 
 honey, so thick that it will flow only very slowly 
 from the lip or spout of the vessel containing it. 
 Next fill a shallow box with fine starch, and hav- 
 ing smoothed the surface, proceed with a stick, 
 having a rounded end, of the size desired in the 
 finished gum drop, to make indentations in the 
 starch, as thickly together as can be done without 
 disturbing the shape of one by the formation of 
 another. Round buttons of wood may be fastened 
 to a flat board, if desired, and the entire set of 
 indentations prepared at once by pressing the 
 board on the surfaee of the starch. 
 
96 NO IV TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 The mixture of gum and sugar should now be 
 placed in a vessel having a long lip or spout, and 
 as the liquid is poured slowly out, a portion just 
 sufficient to fill each indentation should be stroked 
 off with a wire and allowed to drop therein. Any 
 flavor may be obtained by using enough of the de- 
 sired flavoring extract to suit the taste, and a little 
 color may be added if wanted. These should 
 be added while the mixture is warm. When the 
 mould is filled it must be set in a warm place for 
 several days, until the drops are sufficiently hard- 
 ened on the outside to bear handling without 
 breaking. They may then be removed from the 
 starch, and crystallized in the manner described 
 in the paragraph relating to bonbons 
 
 Of course this process is unnecessary where the 
 drops are to be used in a short time, and is em- 
 ployed principally to improve the appearance of 
 goods. Only pure gum arabic is used in the man- 
 ufacture of the best qualities of these confections. 
 Those made to sell at a low price, especially 
 those used in the " mixed candies," sold so freely 
 by the sidewalk venders, are made from corn-starch 
 prepared as described in the paragraph on Fig 
 Paste, to which ordinary glue is sometimes added. 
 
LOZENGE MAKING. 
 
 Lozenge Making. 
 
 The Lozenge is one of those forms of con- 
 fectionery the consumption of which is more uni- 
 form and less affected by caprice on the part of 
 consumers than any other. At nearly all seasons, 
 and with all persons, these aromatic disks find 
 favor. Aside from the great quantity consumed 
 for the gratification of the taste alone, many are 
 employed as a pleasant vehicle for the adminis- 
 tration of some medicinal substance, and especially 
 IS this the case with the numerous troches and 
 similar compounds used for the alleviation of va- 
 rious affections of the throat. Such employment 
 of these confections suggests, therefore, a natural 
 division of the description of the process of their 
 manufacture into two parts. 
 
 I. Aromatic and Fruit Lozenges. 
 
 The manufacture of this class of confections 
 IS quite simple, and the ingredients for each kind 
 are few in number. For the varieties most in use 
 gum, sugar, and flavoring material are alone re- 
 quired. 
 
 Preparation of the Gum.— Only the better 
 5 
 
98 
 
 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 qualities of gum arabic should be employed. It 
 is not necessary to use the very whitest and 
 most expensive sorts, but it should be free from 
 dirt and not too dark, save for colored lozenges. 
 To two ounces . of the gum, coarsely ground if 
 convenient, add four ounces of warm water and 
 allow the mixture to stand until the gum is dis- 
 solved, which will take from twelve to twenty-four 
 hours, according to the size of the pieces. 
 
 The mucilage thus formed, after being strained 
 through fine muslin gauze to remove any par- 
 ticles of foreign matter, is ready for use. Only 
 the quantity needed for each operation should 
 be prepared, since if allowed to stand for a few 
 days, it becomes sour and acquires an unpleasant 
 taste. 
 
 Sugar. — The finely pulverized sugar sold by 
 grocers will answer very well for the preparation 
 of lozenges for home use, but confectioners em- 
 ploy a kind especially prepared for their purposes. 
 This variety may be obtained from any dealer in 
 confectioners' supplies, or in a small way from 
 the confectioners themselves. It is simply refined 
 sugar reduced to a very fine powder, as fine as 
 
MIXING THE MATERIALS, 99 
 
 flour, and if obtained from respectable dealers, is 
 entirely pure. It is known as lozenge or icing 
 sugar, and aside from its use for this particular 
 purpose, is employed in the manufacture of many 
 other forms of confectionery described in other 
 pages of this work. By many unprincipled manu- 
 facturers of the cheap candies retailed on the 
 streets and in the lower classes of stores, large 
 quantities of a peculiar form of calcareous earth 
 termed terra alba are employed to adulterate 
 lozenges as well as other confections. 
 
 The fraud may be easily detected by allow- 
 ing the suspected goods to dissolve in water; 
 if of pure sugar, the solution will be transparent, 
 while if adulterated the particles of foreign mat- 
 ter will settle to the bottom. 
 
 Flavoring Materials. — A general description 
 of these has already been given. The particular 
 form to be employed in each instance, whether 
 an essential oil, an aromatic substance, or an ex- 
 tract, will be stated in each of the succeeding 
 formulae. 
 
 Mixing the Materials. — This process is so 
 simple that a. very short description will suffice* 
 
roo 
 
 HO W TO MAKE CAND Y. 
 
 The powdered sugar, in such quantity as may be 
 desired, is placed in a pan or on a large mould- 
 ing board, and into a depression made in the 
 centre of the sugar, a little of the mucilage, 
 prepared as already described, is poured. This is 
 worked up with the sugar, at first with a stiff 
 spoon, but as it loses its pasty consistence and 
 becomes more like dough by the admixture of 
 more sugar, the hands may be employed. 
 
 In brief, the process is precisely the same as 
 that employed by the cook in mixing yeast and 
 flour to make the sponge for bread. If the dough 
 becomes too stiff a little more mucilage may be 
 added; if too pasty, more sugar is required. The 
 hardness of the lozenge depends upon the thick- 
 ness of the mucilage. If very thick with gum the 
 product will be hard, and will dissolve more 
 slowly in the mouth. If less gum be used, the 
 lozenge will be softer in texture. The exact con- 
 sistence to be given to the mass before cutting 
 is difficult to describe, but a very little experience 
 will enable the operator to adjust the proportions 
 of sugar and mucilage. If too much of the lat- 
 ter is employed, the ' mass will stick to the slab 
 while being rolled. This trouble may be corrected 
 
MIXING THE MATERIALS. loi 
 
 by the addition of more sugar. On the contrary, 
 if the mass is inclined to crumble, the addition 
 of a very little mucilage will remedy the difficulty. 
 The mass when rightly prepared will roll out, and 
 cut easily without adherence to the edge of the 
 cutting tool. 
 
 An ordinary wooden roller may be employed to 
 reduce the mass in successive portions to the 
 desired thickness. 
 
 For home use, the thickness of these portions 
 may be regulated by the eye, a little variation 
 being of no consequence. If uniform thickness is 
 desired, it is necessary to place upon the ends of 
 the rollers, bands of metal about a half inch in 
 width and of the same thickness as that to be 
 given to the finished lozenges. The same result 
 may be effected by cutting away in a turning 
 lathe a portion of the roller to the requisite depth, 
 leaving flanges of the right thickness on each side. 
 
 The rolling out of the mass should preferably 
 be conducted on a smooth marble slab, the mass 
 being occasionally dusted with powdered starch to 
 prevent its adherence. A smooth, hard-grained 
 board, such as is used for moulding bread, will 
 answer, if the slab cannot conveniently be procured. 
 
102 ^OIV TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 Forming the Lozenge. — For this purpose a 
 cutter is employed, which may easily be procured 
 from a tinsmith at a small expense. 
 
 It consists of a tin tube about four inches 
 in length, the diameter of the smaller end being 
 that of the lozenge to be cut. 
 
 The diameter of the larger end should exceed 
 that of the smaller by about one fourth of an 
 inch. The tapering form thus given insures a 
 smooth cut of the lozenge, and a free delivery 
 without the mutilation which would be caused by 
 the adherence of the mass to the sides of the 
 cutter, if straight. 
 
 The edges forming the joint should be 
 brought together and soldered without lapping. 
 The cutting edge is to be made sharp by a fine 
 file, and when dulled, may be restored in the 
 same manner. 
 
 Large manufacturers sometimes employ cutters 
 of steel, which are of course more durable. 
 The mass having been rolled to the proper 
 thickness, is lightly dusted with a little fine 
 starch, and the putter being quickly and forcibly 
 pressed upon the yielding mass and withdrawn, 
 brings with it a perfectly-formed lozenge. By re- 
 
FORMING THE LOZENGE. 103 
 
 peating the process, the tube of the cutter is 
 quickly filled, and its contents are then strewn 
 upon a flat tray or board and placed in a room 
 of moderately warm temperature to dry. The 
 deftness of manipulation attained by expert work- 
 men in this branch of confectionery is interesting 
 to witness. Quickly seizing just the right quantity 
 of the saccharine dough, a few sweeps of the 
 roller suffices to bring it to a uniform thickness. 
 The lower portion of the cutter is then grasped 
 with the ends of the thumb and the first two fin- 
 gers, and with motions as quick as those of a 
 piano player, the arm sweeps across the table, 
 the individual cutting motions being hardly percep- 
 tible, and the contents of the cutter are emptied 
 on a tray kept in waiting by a boy whose duty 
 it is to remove the finished lozenges as fast as a 
 tray is filled by a workman. These are at once 
 placed in the drying room, where a current of 
 dry heated air is constantly passing over the 
 trays, and in a few hours the goods have ac- 
 quired the requisite degree of hardness for safe 
 handling without breaking. Of course the shape of 
 the lozenge may be varied at will by a correspond- 
 ing change in the form of the cutting edge. 
 
I04 ^OW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 Frequently fanciful effects are produced by 
 coloring portions of the mass of various tints. 
 These colored portions are rolled separately to 
 nearly the required thickness, and then, after 
 placing one on the other, slightly moistening the 
 surfaces to be brought in contact, the entire 
 sheet thus formed may be rolled to the proper 
 thickness. A layer of red lozenge mass may 
 thus be placed on white, and the finished lozenge 
 will be of these respective colors on its opposite 
 sides. Motto lozenges are made by means of 
 small stamps containing a word or sentence in 
 relief. These are lightly touched on a cloth 
 which has been moistened with the desired tint, 
 and pressed upon the freshly-cut lozenges. 
 
 Piping. — Instead of being cut into lozenges, 
 the mass is sometimes prepared in the shape of 
 small cylindrical sticks. In the large way, this is 
 accomplished by forcing the soft mass through tubes 
 of the proper shape and size, and cutting the 
 cylinders thus produced into any required length. 
 The same shape may be obtained by rolling por-- 
 tions of the mass on a slab with a thin flat 
 board. The ribbed varieties of pipings, into 
 which coltsfoot rock and bath pipe are sometimes 
 
CINNAMON. . 105 
 
 formed, and all shapes except the cylindrical, can 
 
 be made only in the manner first described, 
 
 the changes in shape being effected by variously 
 formed tubes. 
 
 Various Flavors of Lozenges. 
 
 Anise. — To one pound of sugar add from 
 thirty to forty drops of pure oil of anise cut 
 with a little alcohol. The ordinary oil of star 
 anise is universally employed by confectioners, 
 but is not nearly so delicate in flavor as that 
 obtained from the seed. 
 
 Clove. — To each pound of sugar add of the 
 pure oil of cloves to suit the taste, being careful 
 not to flavor too strongly. Twenty to thirty 
 drops will suffice for the taste of most persons. 
 
 Cinnamon. — To each pound of sugar add 
 twenty drops of the oil of Ceylon cinnamon. If 
 this variety of oil were oftener used, its flavor 
 would soon become popular. Unfortunately only 
 the ordinary oil of cassia is employed save in 
 the high-priced lozenges of foreign manufacture, 
 5* 
 
io6 ^OW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 or the goods sent out by the best confectioners 
 
 for the finest retail trade. It is the fashion to 
 
 give to lozenges of this flavor a bright pink or 
 red color, 
 
 Cayenne. — To each pound of sugar add forty 
 to fifty drops of the strong extract of Cayenne 
 pepper made as heretofore described. The de- 
 mand for this particular flavor is quite limited, 
 and the lozenges are chiefly used for the purpose 
 of playing harmless 'jokes upon the unwary. 
 These are also colored a light red. 
 
 Currant. — Take equal parts of fine currant 
 jelly and a very thick mucilage of gum arabic : 
 mix and add sugar until the mass is of the 
 proper consistence. The pulp of any preserved 
 fruit may be substituted for the jelly, and many 
 varieties of flavors be thus produced. 
 
 The black currant lozenge, prepared from the 
 pulp of the English fruit, is a favorite remedy 
 for the alleviation of throat difficulties. 
 
 Chocolate. — To one half pound of Baker's 
 best chocolate melted over boiling water, add 
 four ounces of hoi thick mucilage of gum arabic, 
 
GINGER. 107 
 
 and continue the heat until the mixture is 
 brought to a uniform consistence. Add sufficient 
 sugar to bring it to a proper state for rolling, 
 and proceed as before directed. If the mass 
 shows a tendency to harden, it may be slightly 
 warmed. Only a little should be mixed at a 
 time, and the cutting operation should be per- 
 formed as quickly as possible. 
 
 Cachou. — To one pound of lozenge mass, 
 prepared with sugar and gum mucilage in the 
 usual way, add thirty to fifty drops of the flavor- 
 ing extract, made according to the formula given 
 in the paragraph relating to cachous. A bright 
 red color is usually given to the mass, and the 
 lozenges are cut quite small and thin. 
 
 Ginger. — The extract of Jamaica ginger here- 
 tofore described, may be used in the proportion 
 of a teaspoonful of the extract to a pound of 
 sugar, or stronger if desired. The pure ground 
 ginger may also be incorporated with the sugar 
 before it is made into a mass. When so used it 
 should be sifted through a very fine sieve, to re- 
 move the fibrous portions of the. root. 
 
io8 ^OW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 Lemon. — To each pound of lozenge mass 
 add twenty to thirty drops of pure oil of lemon, 
 or a teaspoonful of good extract. This flavor is 
 not often used from the fact that it spoils very 
 quickly when exposed to the air, though while 
 fresh, the lozenges thus prepared are very fine. 
 A very little tartaric acid, just enough to impart 
 a pleasant sour taste, may be added if desired. 
 Color yellow with a few drops of tincture of tu- 
 meric. 
 
 Musk. — The true perfume of the musk is 
 very difficult to procure in a pure state. Its use 
 is confined chiefly to the preparation of extracts 
 for the handkerchief, and when so used it is 
 generally compounded with other substances, so 
 that even the best extract of musk designed to 
 be used as a perfume cannot be employed for 
 flavoring purposes. It will hardly be practicable, 
 therefore, to prepare lozenges of this flavor in a 
 small way, unless an absolutely pure extract can 
 be purchased from some reliable druggist. The 
 extract is prepared as follows : One ounce of 
 pure pod musk, or three quarters of an ounce 
 of pure grain musk is added to one quart of 
 
PEPPERMINT. 109 
 
 diluted inodorous alcohol and allowed to macerate 
 for a month in a warm place. If pod musk is 
 used, it must be very finely cut. A few grains 
 of sal. tartar, not to exceed twenty, will aid in 
 bringing out the flavor, if added to the tincture. 
 It is somewhat difficult to give directions as 
 to the amount of this flavor to be used, owing 
 to the great diversity of taste in this regard. 
 About one teaspoonful of extract to a pound of 
 sugar will generally suffice. Too strong a flavor 
 will prove disagreeable to many. Imitation musk 
 lozenges are flavored with a compound of aro- 
 matic oils, principally cinnamon, clove, and rose. 
 
 Orange. — Prepare as directed for lemon, sub- 
 stituting the oil or extract of orange. 
 
 Peppermint. — To each pound of lozenge 
 mass add from fifteen to twenty-five drops of 
 pure oil of peppermint. By using the English oil, 
 the flavor will be the same as that of the im^ 
 ported lozenges. 
 
 The American oil is, however, if pure, much 
 to be preferred, and is exported in large quanti- 
 ties to be used by English confectioners in pre- 
 
no HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 ference to the oil produced at home. Peppermint 
 lozenges are seldom, if ever, colored, and care 
 should be taken to use very white gum in their 
 preparation. Some manufacturers add a few drops 
 of blue color to the mass to neutralize any yel- 
 lowish tinge in the materials, and give the 
 lozenges a fine white color. 
 
 Pineapple. — The aroma of this delicious fruit 
 is illy adapted for use as a lozenge flavor, from 
 the fact that in its natural state it is not suffi- 
 ciently intense, and is destroyed by any attempt 
 at concentration. 
 
 The artificial flavor is therefore the only one 
 which can be employed, but is insipid unless a 
 little acid is also used. The same remarks will 
 apply to banana and other artificial flavorings. 
 
 Quince. — These may be prepared from the 
 jelly of the fruit in the same manner as directed 
 for currant. 
 
 Raspberry. — Prepare from the pulp of the 
 fruit the same as currant. Before niixing with 
 the sugar, pass through a fine hair sieve to re- 
 move the seeds. 
 
VANILLA. Ill 
 
 Rose.— -To each pound of sugar add fifteen 
 drjps of pure oil of rose dissolved in a little 
 strong alcohol. Particular care should be ob- 
 served to use only a pure and fine flavored oil, 
 as that which has been adulterated will give to 
 the lozenges a musty and unpleasant taste. If a 
 strong extract, prepared from the French flower 
 pomade of this odor can be obtained, it will 
 give a much finer flavor than that of even the 
 purest oil. Rose lozenges are usually colored a 
 bright red. 
 
 Sassafras. — To each pound of sugar add 
 twenty to forty drops of fine oil of sassafras. 
 Lozenges of this flavor are seldom colored. 
 
 Sarsaparilla. — To each pound of sugar add 
 one half ounce of powdered extract of liquorice, 
 or the same quantity of roll liquorice dissolved 
 in a little water. Mix thoroughly, and flavor with 
 a mixture of equal parts of oils of wintergreen 
 and sassafras. 
 
 Vanilla. — To each pound of sugar add a full 
 teaspoonful of good extract of vanilla. This 
 
112 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 flavor, though much admired in other confections, 
 is seldom used in lozenges, the popular taste re- 
 quiring something of a more pungent character. 
 
 Wintergreen. — To one pound of sugar add 
 twenty to forty drops of pure oil of wintergreen. 
 No color is required. 
 
 In all the preceding receipts, the use of gum 
 arable only as a coherent material has been 
 directed. For such purposes it possesses many 
 qualities, all of which are not combined in any 
 other similar substance. It is, therefore, employed 
 by the best manufacturing confectioners in the 
 production of first-class goods. 
 
 For the cheaper grades, other gums of less 
 cost are sometimes substituted. For home use, a 
 delicious lozenge may be made, of any of the 
 preceding flavors, by substituting the beaten 
 whites of eggs in place of the gum mucilage, 
 and otherwise following the directions given. 
 Such lozenges, while fresh, have a fine taste, but 
 do not retain their good qualities with age. 
 
 Crystal Lozenges. — By employing sugar in 
 a finely granulated condition, and otherwise fol- 
 
DIADEM LOZENGES. 113 
 
 lowing the directions given, a peculiar texture is 
 obtained in the finished lozenge, which is ren- 
 dered crystalline, and almost transparent, in ap- 
 pearance. For such use, the pulverized sugar 
 sold by grocers for culinary purposes, may be 
 used, the finer particles being removed by sift- 
 ing. 
 
 Cream Lozenges. — By the addition of a 
 little inodorous glycerine, the lozenges retain 
 their moisture for a long time, hardening only 
 sufficiently to bear moderate handling. They re- 
 semble in taste a freshly cut lozenge of the 
 ordinary kind, and easily melt in the mouth. 
 A very small proportion of glycerine, usually 
 about two ounces to a pound of sugar, will pro- 
 duce this effect. A thin mucilage should also be 
 used. Only a good quality of glycerine should 
 be employed for this purpose, as the cheap 
 grades have an extremely nauseous taste. 
 
 A similar effect may be produced by the use 
 of a thick syrup of glucose or starch sugar. 
 
 Diadem Lozenges. — These are made by 
 mixing enough of the mucilage with the sugar to 
 produce a thick, pasty mass instead of a dough. 
 
114 I/OJV TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 This mass is then forced through orifices in a 
 metal plate, which is placed in the bottom of a 
 square box having a closely fitting piece of wood 
 which is pressed down upon the mass. As por- 
 tions of the mass of sufficient thickness project, 
 they are scraped off with a thin blade and de- 
 posited on sheets of paper to dry. They are 
 usually more strongly flavored, and as they con- 
 tain more gum than the ordinary lozenge, are, of 
 course, harder, and smoother to the taste. 
 
 Medicated Lozenges. 
 
 Coug^h Lozenges. — Under the various terms 
 of Troches, Pastiles, Pulmonic Wafers, etc., etc., 
 thousands of packets of medicated compounds, in 
 the form of lozenges, are consumed. Each man- 
 ufacturer has, of course, his own formula, and 
 the superiority of his own especial product is 
 loudly vaunted in newspaper advertisements and 
 circulars. In reality, there is very little diiference 
 in the composition of these numerously styled arti- 
 cles, and by whatever name they may be called, 
 they are practically the same in their effects. 
 
 Intended chiefly for the alleviation of func- 
 
COUGH LOZENGES, 115 
 
 tional derangements of the throat and vocal 
 organs, they necessarily contain in combination sub- 
 stances possessing demulcent, sedative, tonic, and 
 often slightly astringent properties. As the pro- 
 portions of any one of these substances vary in 
 the recipe of any particular manufacturer, so 
 may his article be especially adapted to the alle- 
 viation of the particular form of disorder under 
 which some purchaser may be laboring. It is not 
 wonderful, therefore, if his faith has been based 
 upon some such accidental adaptability of the 
 remedy to the disease, that the confidence of the 
 purchaser should be very strong regarding the 
 superior merits of the articles prepared by some 
 particular manufacturer, and ready to manifest 
 itself in the form of a "certificate." 
 
 If the manufacturer can only succeed in se- 
 curing in some such manner the signature of a 
 " well-known clergyman," the effect of his repre- 
 sentations will be proportionately increased. The 
 continued and frequent use of such remedies, 
 however pleasant their immediate effect may be 
 upon the organs, the disorders of which they are 
 intended to relieve, is apt to produce serious dis- 
 turbance of the functions of the digestive organs. 
 
ii6 ^OIV TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 The following formula is a good general rep- 
 resentative of that employed in the manufacture 
 of those articles of this description which have 
 the greatest reputation and most extended sale. 
 
 In many, the extract of conium is omitted, a 
 wise precaution, if the troches are sold to be 
 used ad libitum as an article of confectionery. 
 As a medicinal ingredient, however, it possesses 
 valuable properties, and the cough lozenges, or 
 troches containing it, when judiciously used, are 
 much more efficacious in allaying irritation of the 
 throat than are those from which it has been 
 omitted. 
 
 When introduced, specific directions regarding 
 the number of troches to be taken as a dose 
 should accompany each packet, otherwise their too 
 free use might be productive of disagreeable 
 results. 
 
 Bronchial Troches.— 
 
 Extract of Liquorice, One pound. 
 
 Sugar, Two pounds. 
 
 Gum Arabic, Four ounces. 
 
 , Powdered Cubebs, Four ounces. 
 
 Extract of Conium, One ounce. 
 
BRONCHIAL TROCHES. nj 
 
 In addition to these ingredients, some makers 
 add various aromatics, as cloves, cinnamon, etc. 
 Powdered pellitory, in small quantities, is some- 
 times added, but such variations from the above 
 formula are not popular, the public taste having 
 in a manner been educated to a certain standard 
 of flavor, any great departure from which is apt 
 to be regarded with suspicion. 
 
 The mode of manipulation may be varied in 
 combining the above ingredients according to the 
 quantity to be operated upon. When small quan- 
 tities only are employed, it will be found more 
 convenient to use the extract of liquorice and 
 gum arable in a powdered state. 
 
 They should be uniformly mixed with the 
 sugar and cubebs, by being passed through a 
 sieve, and the extract of conium having been 
 reduced with water to the consistence of cream, 
 may then be introduced, and the mass worked 
 into the form of a dough as before described. 
 Gum arable and extract of liquorice are, how- 
 ever, much more expensive in a powdered state, 
 and economy will, therefore, dictate a mode of 
 procedure involving a little more trouble, but 
 producing better results, as there will be no 
 
ii8 HO IV TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 chance for the adulteration of these articles as is 
 too often the case with them when purchased 
 in a powdered state. 
 
 This method is simply to dissolve the ex- 
 tract of liquorice and gum arabic separately, with 
 as little water as will suffice to effect their com- 
 plete solution. When dissolved, they may be 
 mixed and evaporated over a water bath until 
 the compound reaches such a degree of consis- 
 tence that the introduction of the sugar, cubebs, 
 and extract of conium will bring the mass into 
 a suitable condition for rolling. When the ex- 
 tract of conium is used, the thickness of the 
 rolled mass and the size of the cutter should be 
 so graduated that each lozenge may contain a 
 definite and uniform amount thereof. 
 
 Horehound Lozenges. — Boil one pound of 
 dried horehound leaves, with one quart of water, 
 for an hour, replacing the amount of water lost 
 by evaporation. Strain the decoction, expressing 
 the leaves strongly in a press, or in a strong cloth 
 bag by twisting. Add thereto one ounce of gum 
 arabic and allow it to dissolve. Next evaporate 
 the liquid to four or five fluid ounces and in- 
 
LIQUORICE LOZENGES. 119 
 
 corporate with it sufficient sugar to form a mass 
 of the usual consistence for forming into loz- 
 enges. 
 
 Boneset Lozenges. — Prepare in the same 
 manner as horehound, substituting the dried leaves 
 of the boneset. 
 
 Liquorice Lozenges. — Dissolve four ounces 
 of best extract of liquorice in sufficient water to 
 soften the entire mass Add to this enough of 
 the powdered sugar to make a mass suitable for 
 rolling. If only a small quantity of liquorice is 
 desired, the mass may be made to nearly the 
 required consistence with mucilage and the dis- 
 solved liquorice added in quantities to suit. 
 When the directions first given are followed, no 
 gum is needed, the extract of liquorice possess- 
 ing sufficient adhesiveness to form a hard lozenge. 
 Another form of liquorice lozenge may be pre- 
 pared by mixing the powdered liquorice root 
 with the sugar in the proportion of one part of 
 the former to three of the latter, and forming 
 the mixture into a mass with gum mucilage. 
 
 Various forms of cough lozenges are prepared 
 
1 20 HOW TO MAKE CAND V. 
 
 by incorporating different medicinal substances 
 with the extract of liquorice and sugar, but it is 
 hardly necessary to give formulas, each manufac- 
 turer having his own particular proportions, as 
 determined by his own experience or the tastes 
 of his customers. Oil of anise is the usual fla- 
 voring ingredient. Coltsfoot Rock and Bath Pipe 
 are simply a combination of the ingredients above 
 named, a larger proportion of gum being used to 
 give hardness to the finished article. The mass, 
 instead of being cut in lozenges, is forced 
 through cylindrical moulds, and is thus formed into 
 sticks, which may be either plain or corrugated. 
 
 Chlorate of Potash Troches.— 
 
 Chlorate of Potash in fine powder, 
 
 Seven and a half ounces. 
 Lozenge Sugar, Twenty-five ounces. 
 
 Gum Arabic in powder, One ounce. 
 
 Mix the powders and form into a paste in 
 the usual manner with mucilage. The thickness 
 of the sheet and- size of cutter should be so ad- 
 justed that from the above quantity of materials, 
 from 720 to 750 lozenges may be cut. Flavor 
 with any essential oil according to taste. 
 
FRUIT SYRUPS. 
 
 Soda Water and Fruit Syrups. 
 
 The preparation of this class of syrups is so 
 very simple that it would hardly seem possible 
 that there should be much demand for the pro- 
 ducts of those who make the manufacture of 
 these goods a specialty. Yet such is the lack of 
 practical knowledge respecting their preparation, 
 that many establishments do an extensive business 
 in this line, and make large profits which might 
 easily be saved to the consumer. The greatest 
 demand for these syrups comes from the venders 
 of soda water, especially from those whose sales 
 are small, and to whom the saving of a manufac- 
 turer's profit would be quite an object, amounting 
 to no small percentage of the amount of their 
 sales during the season. 
 
 t)ruggists, with few exceptions, prepare their 
 own syrups, and in consequence we find the 
 soda water sold in their establishments, as a rule, 
 greatly superior in quality to that obtained else- 
 where. The profit to be made by the substitu- 
 tion of syrups of inferior quality is so small th^t 
 it should hardly be a temptation to any dealer, 
 
122 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 and the reputation for selling fine soda water 
 will be more than likely to bring him a greater 
 profit by reason of increased custom. If the 
 dealer's sales are large enough to warrant his 
 giving any attention at all to this branch of his 
 business, he will find it greatly to his interest to 
 take the preparation of his syrups into his own 
 hands. 
 
 In addition to the use of fruit syrups with 
 soda water, they are employed in some families 
 quite extensively in the preparation of pleasant 
 cooling drinks, by the addition of ice-water, or 
 as a pleasant flavoring ingredient in punches or 
 other combinations of like character. 
 
 Simple Syrup. — This is the base of most 
 syrups used. Its very name indicates the ease 
 with which it may be prepared. It is " simply " 
 a solution of refined sugar in water. Regarding 
 the quantity of sugar to be used custom varies 
 somewhat. If the syrup be too thin, more must 
 be used to render the soda water sufficiently 
 sweet, and this of course dilutes the sparkling 
 beverage and renders it less brisk to the taste. 
 The proportions in general use by the best drug- 
 
t 
 
 FRUIT SYRUPS. 123 
 
 gists do not vary greatly from twelve pounds of 
 sugar to one gallon of pure water, and if these 
 quantities are employed the result cannot fail to 
 prove satisfactory. To prepare simple syrup, 
 therefore, take twelve pounds of the best crushed 
 sugar, place it with one gallon of water in a 
 convenient vessel over a fire and heat to the 
 boiling point, skimming off the impurities, should 
 any rise to the surface. When cool, pour into 
 jugs or clean kegs, according to the quantity, and 
 keep in a cool place. No clarification is neces- 
 sary. 
 
 Some directions call for the use of the white 
 of an egg to clear the syrup, but no advantage 
 is to be gained by subjecting it to such treat- 
 ment if the ordinary crushed sugar is used. The 
 syrup thus made should be entirely transpa- 
 rent and free from color. 
 
 Having our simple syrup ready, we will note 
 the special treatment which each flavor demands. 
 In some cases, especially when the juices of 
 fruits are employed, the syrup is not first prepared 
 and then flavored, but these processes go hand- 
 in-hand. In such instances, specific instructions 
 will be given as required. 
 
124 ^^^ ^^ MAKE CANDY. 
 
 Lemon Syrup. — Prepare an extract of lemon 
 by dissolving one ounce of pure and fresh oil of 
 lemon in one pint of inodorous alcohol. Dissolve 
 one ounce of citric acid in three ounces of pure 
 water, and add to the solution one ounce of al- 
 cohol. These two solutions are to be kept on 
 hand for use as wanted, the quantity of each to 
 be prepared at one time to be determined 
 by the wants of the consumer. If perfectly 
 fresh oil of lemon is obtained, and pure alco- 
 hol is used, the extract will retain its freshness 
 throughout the season. 
 
 The acid solution is apt to spoil if kept too 
 long, and should therefore be made only in such 
 quantities as will necessitate frequent renewal. 
 
 To flavor the syrup, it is only necessary to 
 add to a portion of the simple syrup sufficient 
 of both the extract and acid solution to suit the 
 taste. No special directions in this regard are 
 necessary, as tastes vary greatly. Generally, a 
 teaspoonful of the extract, and twice that quan- 
 tity of the acid solution will be sufficient for a 
 pint of syrup. The addition of the syrup will 
 cause the syrup to assume a slightly milky ap- 
 pearance, a matter of little consequence, especially 
 
FRUIT SYRUPS. 125 
 
 when the syrup is kept out of sight of the cus- 
 tomer in the various patent draught machines now 
 in general use. Too much care cannot be exer- 
 cised in selecting a fine quality of oil of lemon 
 for making the extract, as on this depends the 
 excellence of the syrup. 
 
 If a pure and fine quality of oil of lemon 
 cannot be obtained, it will be best to use the 
 lemon extract of some reliable maker. If a lit- 
 tle additional trouble can be willingly assumed 
 for the sake of better results, the following pro- 
 cess will give a syrup of delicious taste, and 
 really better than can be obtained in any other 
 way. 
 
 Wash a dozen lemons, slice them thinly, and 
 cover with ten pounds of powdered sugar; cover 
 the vessel in which they are placed, and allow 
 them to remain for several hours, or until the 
 sugar has absorbed the juice of the lemons. Next, 
 add just enough water to make a thick syrup, and 
 heat gently until the sugar is dissolved. Under 
 no circumstances must the syrup be allowed to 
 boil, and the less heat that can be used to effect 
 the complete solution of the sugar the better will 
 be the syrup. 
 
126 ^OIV TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 Orange. — The syrup of this fruit, though very 
 fine, is not as popular with the public as that of 
 the lemon. It may be prepared in precisely the 
 same manner from the extract or the fruit. 
 
 Vanilla. — To a pint of syrup add three tea- 
 spoonfuls of fine vanilla extract. The quality of 
 the syrup will of course depend upon that of the 
 extract used. The extract made by the first pro- 
 cess described in the paragraph relating to this 
 flavor under the head of flavoring extracts will 
 always give satisfaction. Dealers in soda water 
 will find it more to their advantage to manufac- 
 ture their own extracts according to the directions 
 heretofore given, of whatever quality their trade 
 demands, than to purchase the bottled extracts 
 of any manufacturer. 
 
 Ginger. — To a pint of syrup add from one 
 to two teaspoonfals of the extract of Jamaica 
 ginger, made as before directed. A few drops of 
 tincture of curcuma will give a bright yellow ap- 
 pearance, which is generally considered to be in- 
 dicative of greater strength of flavor. Under the 
 name of ginger ale, a combination of ginger and 
 
FRUIT SYRUPS. 127 
 
 lemon flavors in soda water has become quite 
 popular. A " gi'i^ger ale syrup " may easily be 
 prepared by adding to the ginger syrup, strongly 
 flavored, just enough of lemon extract to modify 
 the taste, say a teaspoonful of extract to a pint of 
 syrup. A little of the acid solution should like- 
 wise be added, but not as much as is used in 
 the syrup when flavored with lemon alone. The 
 bottled ginger ale is simply soda water sweetened 
 and flavored with this syrup. Ginger syrup is 
 sometimes made by boiling the bruised root 
 in water until the latter has acquired a strong 
 taste ; it is then strained and sugar added to 
 bring it to a syrupy consistence. 
 
 The " extract of ginger ale," sold to be used 
 as a flavoring for this syrup, seems to be simply 
 a strong decoction of ginger colored with a little 
 burnt sugar. Syrup of much better quality can 
 be made by using the regular ginger and lemon 
 extract. 
 
 Raspberry. — This fine syrup, to be in per- 
 fection, should be prepared directly from the 
 fruit. A very fair imitation syrup may be pro- 
 duced, and it is this which constitutes the bulk 
 
128 HOW TO MAKE CAND V. 
 
 of that sold by manufactQrers, but when sub- 
 jected to the test of comparison with the true 
 syrup of the fruit, the great superiority of the 
 latter is at once apparent. The directions usually 
 given for the preparation of this syrup involve 
 the expression of the juice and the use of heat 
 in order to coagulate the vegetable albumen and 
 render the syrup less liable to ferment. 
 
 The following process which has been used 
 by the writer for many years, while saving much 
 trouble and expense, yields a syrup surpassing 
 in delicacy of flavor that prepared by any other 
 method, while its keeping qualities are simply 
 perfect. Take of ripe raspberries, either black 
 or red, any convenient quantity. Place them in 
 a wide-mouthed earthen vessel, an ordinary 
 stone pot will answer, and bruise by stirring 
 with a flat wooden paddle. The berries need 
 not be completely mashed, only the surface 
 needs breaking, and this is accomplished by a 
 little stirring and bruising with the paddle. 
 Next, mix pure acetic acid and water in the 
 proportion of one part of acid to ten of water, 
 and pour over the berries, using for this purpose 
 just enough to slightly cover them and no 
 
FRUIT SYRUPS. 
 
 129 
 
 more. Allow the berries to stand thus covered 
 by the acid for ten or twelve hours. 
 
 Prepare a stoutly sewed bag of canton flannel 
 or thick cotton cloth in a conical shape, and 
 fasten the large end firmly around a hoop, Sus- 
 pend this bag by wires or stout strings from the 
 ceiling, and fill with the contents of the vessel. 
 The acetified juice will soon commence to run 
 away in a beautifully transparent and finely col- 
 ored stream, and should be received in a clean 
 vessel placed underneath. Allow the juice to 
 drain as long as any will run, and when the 
 liquid no longer drops from the bag, remove 
 that which has filtered through and add twelve 
 pounds of refined sugar to each gallon. Dissolve 
 by a very gentle heat, not to exceed 125° F;, 
 and pour the finished syrup into large bottles or 
 jugs. These may be corked and sealed, and the 
 syrup will keep without showing any signs of fer- 
 mentation throughout the entire year. Of course 
 a fine quality of acetic acid must be used. That 
 obtained from the rectification of pyroligneous acid 
 sometimes contains a trace of creosote, which, of 
 course, renders it unfit to be used for this pur- 
 pose. 
 
 6* 
 
I30 
 
 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 The acid should be entirely free from any- 
 extraneous odor, having only its natural smell, 
 which is not unpleasant, and harmonizes finely 
 with the bouquet of the fruit. The contents of 
 the bag should not be expressed, but any waste 
 of the fruit may be prevented by stirring up the 
 residue with a fresh portion of acid and allowing 
 it to drain, when it may be added to a fresh 
 portion of berries. If expressed, minute portions 
 of the fermentable parts of the berries will pass 
 through, and not only tend to injure the fine 
 transparency of the syrup, but will be apt to 
 cause it to spoil by fermentation. 
 
 If any dealer will take the pains to experi- 
 ment on a small quantity of berries, following 
 the directions given, we are confident he will 
 be unwilling thereafter to prepare this syrup in 
 any other way. The acid is used in just the 
 right proportion to give only a pleasant tart 
 taste, which renders the syrup much more agree- 
 able than when made from the juice of the 
 berries without such addition. The syrup thus 
 prepared is very rich in flavor and of a very 
 deep color. If desired, it may be reduced at 
 the time of using with a little plain syrup. 
 
FRUIT SYRUPS. 
 
 131 
 
 The imitation syrup of raspberries is prepared by 
 flavoring simple syrup with an extract com- 
 pounded as below. It should be colored a 
 bright red with cochineal or aniline. 
 
 Bruised Orris Root. 
 
 3 ounces, 
 
 Acetic Acid, 
 
 2 « 
 
 Acetic Ether, 
 
 I ounce, 
 
 Alcohol, 
 
 I pint. 
 
 Mix and allow to stand a few days, then filter. 
 
 Strawberry. — The same process as that just 
 described is to be followed in every respect, sub- 
 stituting fully ripe strawberries in place of the 
 raspberries. 
 
 The strawberry being somewhat firmer in tex- 
 ture, needs a little more bruising, and may 
 therefore be broken with the paddle in such a 
 manner that the juices may escape, yet without 
 beating the fruit to a pulp. A good way in 
 preparing small quantities is to take each berry 
 between the thumb and finger, and with a little 
 pressure crush the berry just enough to allow 
 the juice to flow freely. The results obtained by 
 treating the strawberry in this manner, still 
 
132 ffOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 better exhibit the superiority of this process over 
 the one usually employed. 
 
 The flavor of the strawberry, as all know, is 
 exceedingly delicate and must be very carefully 
 treated in order that its fine qualities may remain 
 unimpaired. If expressed, the juice must be 
 boiled, in order to coagulate and remove the 
 fermentable portions, and by such treatment the 
 delicate flavor is entirely ruined. When obtained 
 by the use of acetic acid, the aroma is entirely 
 preserved, the degree of heat employed to dis- 
 solve the sugar not being sufficient to injure 
 the flavor of the fruit in the least. The color 
 of the syrup is superb, and needs no addition of 
 any foreign coloring material to improve it. The 
 finished syrup, if kept in a cool place, will re- 
 main unchanged in its qualities for an entire 
 year, or longer. Advantage may consequently be 
 taken of the very low rates which sometimes 
 prevail when the market has temporarily become 
 glutted, and enough syrup prepared to last the 
 entire season. 
 
 The addition of acetic acid to the juice after 
 expression has been before recommended, but the 
 method of extracting the juice by means of the 
 
FRUIT SYRUPS. 133 
 
 acid without expression is, so far as known, original 
 with the writer, and from many years' experience 
 he can testify to its excellence. The testimony 
 of the few to whom the process has been com- 
 municated has likewise been uniformly in its 
 favor. Aside from the excellent quality of the 
 syrup thus obtained, the saving in the trouble- 
 some labor of expression employed in the old 
 methods,, is very great and doubly welcome, since 
 it comes at so busy a season of the year. 
 
 An imitation syrup of strawberry may be 
 made by using as a flavor the artificial extract 
 prepared by the manufacturing chemists ; but it 
 in no manner resembles the real flavor of this 
 berry, having only a peculiar fruity odor, more 
 general than specific in character. In this con- 
 nection, it may be well to allude to the sub- 
 stances purporting to be " pure fruit juices." In 
 many cases they are mere imitations; but those 
 sold by reliable houses are really obtained from 
 the fruit. They are prepared, however, by a 
 species of fermentation which is as ruinous to 
 the fine flavor of the fruit as the strong heat 
 employed in other processes. 
 
 Their use, whether they are pure or fictitious 
 
134 ^OW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 in character, cannot be recommended to those 
 who desire to obtain a reputation for fine soda 
 water. 
 
 Pineapple. — The preparation of a syrup di- 
 rectly from this fruit is somewhat difficult un- 
 less on the large scale, when proper utensils may 
 be provided to save labor. The process described 
 for raspberry cannot well be employed, owing to 
 the peculiar texture of the fruit. The juice must 
 therefore be obtained by expression, and to this 
 end the fruit must first be reduced to a pulp by 
 means of a coarse revolving grater, or in the 
 small way by pounding in a mortar. The pulp 
 is then subjected to great pressure in a strong 
 tincture press, and from the juice thus obtained 
 the syrup is prepared. The juice, like that of 
 all fruits, contains much fermentable matter, which 
 can only be removed by heating it to the boil- 
 ing point; but in so doing the fine flavor is, of 
 course, greatly impaired. During the season while 
 pineapples are plenty, the better way is to pre- 
 pare the syrup in small quantities as wanted, 
 heating the juice to a degree sufficient to dissolve 
 the sugar only. The syrup is prepared by adding 
 
FRUIT SYRUPS. 135 
 
 to the expressed juice sugar in the proportion of 
 twelve pounds to the gallon. A little of the so- 
 lution of citric acid described in the paragraph 
 on lemon syrup is sometimes added to give 
 sharpness to the taste. The addition of a little 
 acetic acid aids in preventing fermentation, but 
 the taste of this acid does not, as in the cases 
 of raspberry and strawberry, harmonize well 
 with the natural flavor of the fruit. The artificial 
 extract of pineapple more nearly resembles the 
 natural flavor than is the case with any other of 
 these peculiar essences, banana alone excepted, 
 yet it falls far short of giving the satisfaction to 
 be obtained by the use of the juice of the 
 fruit. 
 
 Coffee. — Make a very strong infusion of pure 
 Java coffee in the usual manner, and add twelve 
 pounds of sugar to each gallon thereof. By 
 grinding the coffee very fine and percolating with 
 boiling hot water, a much finer product is ob- 
 tained. Only pure coffee should be used, at 
 least two pounds being required for each gallon 
 of the infusion. 
 
 Chocolate. — Place a half-pound cake of plain 
 
136 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 chocolate of good quality in a saucepan and set 
 the latter into a kettle of boiling water. The 
 chocolate will soon melt, when one quart of 
 boiling water should gradually be added, and 
 afterward two and a half pounds of sugar. 
 Stir until the latter is dissolved, and strain 
 through a hair sieve. Add two teaspoonfuls of 
 good vanilla extract and a few drops of extract 
 of bitter almond. The addition of the almond is, 
 however, a matter of taste, many persons con- 
 sidering it a great improvement, while others are 
 better suited with the natural flavor of the 
 chocolate with a little vanilla flavor only. 
 
 Wild Cherry. — Take of fresh ripe wild 
 cherries one quart. Bruise in a mortar with a 
 wooden pestle, that the pulp of the fruit may be 
 crushed without breaking the stones. About a 
 tablespoonful of these should, however, be broken 
 with an iron pestle, the object being to obtain 
 only a certain amount of the bitter flavor of the 
 meats. If all were broken this flavor would be 
 too strong. Add one half-pint of pure inodorous 
 alcohol and one half-pint of water, and macerate 
 for a week ; express and filter. To one quart of 
 
FRUIT SYRUPS. 137 
 
 simple syrup add four to six ounces of the extract 
 of the fruit prepared as above. The ordinary syrup 
 of wild cherry is made by flavoring simple syrup 
 with bitter almond extract and coloring. If the 
 fresh fruit cannot be obtained, the dried cherries 
 may be used without being bruised, just enough 
 of the spirit being added to cover them. They 
 must be allowed to macerate for at least ten 
 days and then expressed with considerable force 
 in a strong tincture press. 
 
 Wintergreen. — This flavor is rarely used 
 alone, but in combination with other flavors 
 serves to give an agreeable taste to the so-called 
 sarsaparilla syrup. If a syrup of this flavor is 
 required, it may be made by adding to simple 
 syrup enough of the essence of wintergreen to 
 give a pleasant taste. This syrup is generally 
 preferred of a bright red color. 
 
 Cream Syrup. — If real cream can readily 
 be procured, it forms a very fine addition to 
 many syrups. It should be mixed with its own 
 bulk of fresh milk, and sweetened by the addi- 
 tion of one pound of pulverized sugar to each 
 
138 HO IV TO MAKE CANDY, 
 
 quart of the mixed cream and milk. It is not 
 always practicable, however, to obtain a regular 
 supply, and the real cream is therefore seldom 
 used. 
 
 The following directions will be found to 
 furnish an acceptable substitute. Beat the whites 
 of two eggs and the yolk of one thoroughly with 
 one pound of pulverized sugar. Add gradually 
 one pint of fresh rich milk and stir until the 
 sugar is dissolved; strain through a fine sieve. 
 The sugar is added to the cream more to pre- 
 vent it from turning sour than for its sweetening 
 property, as this quality is furnished by the par- 
 ticular syrup with which the cream is used. 
 
 Many dealers are in the habit of using 
 nothing but rich milk without any addition, in 
 place of a cream syrup. If the syrups with 
 which it is used are sufficiently heavy, the re- 
 sult is perhaps as satisfactory as when the more 
 elaborately prepared mixture is substituted. 
 
 Sarsaparilla. — It is a popular delusion that 
 this syrup has valuable medicinal properties in 
 addition to its agreeable flavor. The use of the 
 substance from which it takes its name 'has, how- 
 
FRUIT SYRUPS. 139 
 
 ever, long since been dispensed with, and what- 
 ever medicinal properties might have resided in 
 a syrup prepared therefrom, are now in vain to 
 be looked for in the simple ai^omatic syrup which 
 bears the name of sarsaparilla, but contains none 
 of it. 
 
 Nor is the omission to be deprecated. 
 Enough medicine is swallowed by the average in- 
 dividual in other ways, without the necessity of 
 imbibing it in his daily drink. The popularity 
 of this syrup has, however, been maintained by 
 its fine aromatic flavor, a flavor at first added 
 to disguise the unpleasant taste of the medicinal 
 tincture which was added to the syrup. As now 
 used, sarsaparilla syrup may be prepared as fol- 
 lows : To one pint of alcohol add one ounce 
 each of oils of sassafras and wintergreen. This 
 forms the flavoring extract which may be added 
 to simple syrup according to taste. The syrup is 
 usually preferred of a dark brown color to keep 
 up the sarsaparilla delusion. 
 
 A little burnt sugar or solution of extract of 
 liquorice will give the requisite tint. When large 
 quantities of this syrup are used, it is the prac- 
 tice of most dealers to prepare it from a good 
 
I40 HOW TO MAKE CANDY, 
 
 quality of brown sugar. When thus made, the 
 color will generally be sufficiently dark without 
 the addition of any coloring material. Syrup 
 thus prepared is somewhat cheaper and equally 
 as good. 
 
 Catawba. — Prepare a very heavy simple 
 syrup, using sixteen pounds of sugar to a gallon 
 of water. Add to a portion of this an equal 
 bulk of fine catawba wine having a rich bouquet. 
 Hock, claret, and -other wine syrups are prepared 
 in a similar manner. Some dealers prefer to keep 
 the simple syrup on draught, and after drawing 
 a sufficient quantity in the glass to properly 
 sweeten the contents, add the wine just previous 
 to filling with soda water. 
 
 Milk Punch. — To one pint of heavy syrup add 
 ^^ half pint each of brandy and Jamaica rum. 
 Flavor with two teaspoonfuls of an extract pre- 
 pared by macerating two ounces of ground nut- 
 megs in eight ounces of alcohol. The syrup is 
 first to be poured into the glass in the proper 
 quantity, and ordinary cream syrup added before 
 drawing the soda water. 
 
FRUIT SYRUPS. 141 
 
 Orgeat. — The true syrup of this flavor is 
 prepared from the meats of the sweet and bitter 
 almond. To make it, take three ounces of the 
 sweet and one ounce of the bitter ahnond meats, 
 deprive them of their skins by immersing them 
 for a moment in boiling water and rubbing off 
 the skin, which will easily come away ; pound 
 to a fine paste in a clean iron mortar, and 
 gradually add one pint of simple syrup. Strain 
 through a fine sieve. 
 
 This process gives a syrup of a very delicate 
 flavor, but dealers hardly care to undertake the 
 trouble involved in its preparation. 
 
 An excellent imitation is made by flavoring 
 the cream syrup already described, made with 
 eggs and milk, with a few drops of extract of 
 bitter almond. 
 
 Champagne. — To one quart of good Rhine 
 wine, with a rich bouquet, add two ounces of 
 old Otard brandy, one tablespoonful of good 
 sherry, and three pounds of pulverized sugar. Dis- 
 solve the latter by stirring without the application 
 of heat. This syrup should be kept very cold, 
 and used with soda water from a highly charged 
 
142 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 fount. It forms a much better substitute for 
 genuine champagne than any of the numerous 
 doctored cider imitations. 
 
 Sherry Cobbler. — To one pint of good 
 sherry add an equal measure of heavy simple 
 syrup and one lemon cut in very thin slices. 
 Allow the syrup to stand a few hours, strain 
 through a sieve, and bottle for use. 
 
 Fancy Syrups. — Under the names of Am- 
 brosia, Nectar, etc., many variously flavored com- 
 binations are from time to time set forth by the 
 dealer to give variety to his list of syrups, and 
 attract custom by their novelty. As no special 
 uniformity need be observed in this regard, a 
 few formulas are given, to any of which the 
 dealer using may assign that name which his 
 fancy may suggest. 
 
 I. — Take of simple syrup one pint, syrup of 
 
 wild cherry and good port wine, of each four 
 
 ounces. The flavor of this is exquisite when 
 made from fine materials. 
 
 II. — Raspberry syrup one pint, vanilla syrup 
 one pint, Sauterne wine one half pint. 
 
FRUIT SYRUPS. 143 
 
 III. — Vanilla syrup one quart, pineapple syrup 
 one half pint, raspberry syrup one half pint. 
 
 IV. — Heavy simple syrup one pint, lemon syrup 
 one half pint, brandy one half pint, extract of nut- 
 meg ten drops. 
 
 V. — To one quart of good Rhine wine add 
 one lemon and one orange, each thinly sliced, 
 one half of a small pineapple, sliced, and three 
 pounds of fine sugar. Allow them to stand for a 
 few hours, heat gently over a water bath, stirring 
 until the sugar is dissolved, and strain for use. 
 
 Sugar-House Syrups.— The genuine "old- 
 fashioned " sugar-house syrup is obtained in the 
 process of refining sugar, and is simply the mo- 
 lasses which drains away from the sugar after it 
 has been brought to the crystalline form. Its 
 flavor varies with the different kinds of raw 
 sugar which are treated, and it is of various 
 qualities according to the degree to which the 
 refining process is carried. It is used quite 
 freely by families, especially in the winter months, 
 as an agreeable addition to many kinds of food. 
 
144 ^OW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 Owing to the high price at which the genuine 
 article is held, many cheaper substitutes are in 
 the market. 
 
 Most of these are prepared from starch or 
 artificial sugar, and while they are not, if prop- 
 erly made, deleterious to the health of the con- 
 sumer, they do not possess the fine flavor of the 
 true syrup. They are generally quite thick and 
 heavy, of a dark color, and have a peculiar 
 "stickiness" resembling that of a thick mucilage. 
 There is no necessity for the use of these cheap 
 substitutes on the score of economy. The fol- 
 lowing receipt will furnish a syrup fully equalling 
 the best "golden drips," and at a less price than 
 is usually asked for the common grades. Take 
 from six to eight pounds of half-refined sugar of 
 the grade denominated " C " by grocers ; place 
 in a kettle over a brisk fire, add two quarts of 
 water and bring to a boil. Continue the boiling 
 for a few minutes, skimming off any impurities 
 which may rise to the surface, allow the syrup to 
 cool, and pour into bottles or jugs for use. The 
 proportions of sugar may of course be varied, as 
 the syrup is desired to be thick or thin. If too 
 thick, the sugar will crystallize on the sides of 
 
FRUIT SYRUPS. 145 
 
 the vessel containing it. A very little gum arabic, 
 say one ounce to the above quantity, dissolved 
 in the water before it is added to the sugar, 
 will counteract this tendency, but it is hardly 
 worth while to take this trouble, as the crystal- 
 lized sugar can easily be dissolved in water and 
 added to a fresh portion of the syrup. Care 
 should be taken to procure the kind of sugar 
 described, as it alone possesses the peculiar taste 
 of the refiners' syrups. 
 
 Burnt Sugar. — This term is commonly applied 
 to sugar which has been heated to what is termed 
 the caramel degree. The sugar is not really 
 burned, but undergoes a chemical change in its 
 properties. It is used in this state for coloring 
 syrups and other preparations. To make it, take 
 ordinary brown sugar in any convenient quantity, 
 add a very little water, just enough to aid in 
 bringing the sugar to a uniform consistence, and 
 heat over a brisk fire until it increases greatly in 
 bulk, emits puffs of smoke, and turns to a dark 
 brown color. Remove from the fire, and add 
 gradually enough hot water to bring the mass to 
 a syrupy consistence. 
 7 
 
146 HOW TO MAKE CANDY, 
 
 Miscellaneous. 
 
 Cachous. — This term, from a French word 
 signifying an aromatic berry, is given to the small 
 silver-coated pellets used for the purpose of com- 
 municating an agreeable odor to the breath. 
 They are much used by smokers to conceal the 
 disagreeable smell arising from the use of tobacco. 
 Those sent out by Hooper, of London, have at- 
 tained much celebrity, and large quantities are 
 annually sold in this country. 
 
 The secret of their composition was for a long 
 time carefully guarded, though many recipes have 
 from time to time appeared, purporting to be 
 genuine. The majority of these give results totally 
 different from what should be expected from the 
 genuine formula, while others, though better, merely 
 approximate, without actually producing the real 
 flavor. The following receipt, if pure materials are 
 einployed^ will be found to yield a flavor which 
 can with difliculty be distinguished from that of 
 the genuine Hooper cachous : 
 
MISCELLANEOUS. . 147 
 
 111 English peppermint, 
 
 I ounce. 
 
 Rose, 
 
 I " 
 
 Cloves^ 
 
 I « 
 
 True Ceylon cinnamon, 
 
 1^" 
 
 Tincture of musk, 
 
 4 ounces. 
 
 Alcohol. 
 
 12 « 
 
 The tincture of musk should first be prepared 
 by macerating one half ounce of best pod musk, 
 finely cut, in one pint of alcohol for at least two 
 weeks •. the longer it can stand, the better. The 
 same formula may be used with the substitution 
 of ordinary oils, but the product, while of a 
 pleasing character, and very useful for some pur- 
 poses, will be quite different from that to be ob- 
 tained by closely following the formula. For 
 cheap goods, the musk is entirely omitted, and 
 the quantity of oil of rose reduced. The body of 
 the cachou is composed of extract of liquorice 
 and sugar. The extract of good quality, free 
 from adulteration, is dissolved in sufficient water 
 to soften it and bring it to the state of a thick 
 paste. Powdered lozenge sugar is then added in 
 sufficient quantity to bring the mass to a pilular 
 consistence, and the flavor thoroughly worked in 
 in the proportion of from four to six drams to 
 
148 /^OIV TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 the pound, according to the strength desired. The 
 mass is afterward divided into small pills by the 
 ordinary pill machine, and these are coated with sil- 
 ver by rotating them while moist in a globe into 
 which a few sheets of silver leaf have been placed. 
 
 The introduction of a little pure glycerine 
 will cause the mass to retain its moisture and 
 consistence, thereby facilitating the process of 
 silver coating. Under the name of " Trix," 
 "Jokes," etc., similar preparations have been in- 
 troduced They are made and flavored in the 
 same manner as cachous, but the silver coating 
 is omitted, such omission being no detriment to 
 the quality of the articles, as no real advantage 
 is gained by its use, it being employed for the 
 sake of appearance only. 
 
 The same flavor is used in the manufacture 
 of the cachou lozenge, previously described, which 
 form of confection is much to be preferred to the 
 metallic coated cachous. These lozenges are to 
 be prepared in the ordinary way, but should be 
 strongly flavored and cut very thin and small. 
 They command a much higher price than or- 
 dinary lozenges, and will therefore repay a little 
 extra trouble in this regard. 
 
MISCELLANEOUS, 149 
 
 Frosting or Icing Sugar. — The finely pow- 
 dered sugar described in tlie section relating to 
 lozenges is much better adapted for use in the 
 preparation of frostings for cakes than the " pul- 
 verized " sugar usually kept by grocers for that 
 purpose. In ornamental sugar work for striping, 
 lettering, and executing various designs on fancy 
 and loaf cakes, its use is indispensable. 
 
 As its cost is but a trifle more than that of 
 the ordinary kind, a little inquiry on the part of 
 customers would cause it to be placed in the 
 regular stock of grocers, as the many uses to 
 which it may be profitably applied in culinary 
 operations would cause it to be an article in 
 steady demand were its qualities better known. 
 
 In the preparation of lemonade, punches, and 
 other drinks in which the speedy solution of the 
 saccharine constituent is desirable, its extreme 
 fineness secures the ready accomplishment of such 
 a result. For adding to strawberries and other 
 fruits which need sweetening before sending to 
 the table, it will be found more desirable than 
 the coarser grained variety. 
 
 To prepare frosting, add to the beaten whites 
 of eggs as much of the powdered sugar as will 
 
I50 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 suffice to form a thick pasty mass, just soft 
 enough to spread evenly with a knife. Flavor 
 to suit the taste, and color if desired. 
 
 Various ornamental devices may be formed by 
 a combination of raised stripes of frosting on a 
 plain surface. 
 
 To execute this style of ornament, stiff letter- 
 paper should be rolled in the form of a cone 
 and fastened with a little mucilage. 
 
 The small end can then be cut away, leaving 
 a hole in that part of the cone of whatever size 
 may be desired. After the frosting has been ap- 
 plied to the surface of the cake and allowed to 
 harden, another portion, made in the same man- 
 ner, but not so thick, is to be placed in the 
 cone, through the small end of which it will 
 slowly pour in a fine line, which may be drawn 
 around the surface to be ornamented in any 
 shape desired. The proper consistence of the 
 paste can be ascertained by experiment. 
 
 It should be just thin enough to ooze slowly 
 through the orifice, yet firm enough to retain its 
 shape when laid on the surface of the cake. 
 
 Sugared Almonds.— The preparation of 
 
MISCELLANEO US. 
 
 151 
 
 these popular sweets cannot conveniently be under- 
 taken on a small scale, yet a brief description of 
 the process employed may not be uninteresting. 
 Some confectioners still employ manual labor in 
 their production, but steam and machinery have 
 in most instances taken its place. When made 
 in small quantities, a copper pan of hemispheri- 
 cal shape is suspended by chains over a hot 
 charcoal fire in an open furnace. Into this* pan 
 the meats of almonds are placed and over them 
 poured a small quantity of very heavy syrup, so 
 heavy, in fact, that it must be kept hot in order 
 to prevent the sugar from crystallizing. 
 
 The pan being quickly shaken to and fro, 
 the almond meats are uniformly covered with the 
 syrup, from which the little water remaining is 
 quickly evaporated by the heat of the furnace, 
 leaving the sugar deposited upon the meats in a 
 thin coating. A fresh portion of syrup is then 
 added, the almonds again shaken, and in this 
 manner the process is continued until they are 
 covered with the proper thickness of sugar. On 
 the large scale, the pans are spherical in shape, 
 and set ■ at an angle, so that through an opening 
 in the top the heated syrup may be allowed to 
 
152 NO IV TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 drip in a small stream upon the almonds, which 
 are kept in constant agitation by the revolutions 
 of the pans. These are kept in motion by steam 
 power, and are heated by coils of pipe through 
 which steam is continually passing. The almonds 
 thus prepared are much more uniform in appear- 
 ance than those which are coated by hand. In 
 the same manner are prepared all forms of com- 
 fits and other confections which consist of a 
 nucleus of any kind covered with a hard sugar 
 coating. Sugar-coated pills are likewise so cov- 
 ered. 
 
 Sug"ared Dates. — These are easily prepared 
 by selecting large, well-shaped dates, and making 
 an incision in the side the entire length of the 
 date. The stone is removed, and a paste of 
 sugar prepared in the same manner as the inside 
 of chocolate drops, or some of the " creamed " 
 sugar of bonbons, inserted. The dates are after- 
 ward crystallized, or for home use may be 
 rolled in pulverized sugar. Other dried fruits 
 may be treated in a similar manner. 
 
 Fig Paste. — Take one pound of figs, chop 
 them coarsely, and boil with a pint of water until 
 
MISCELLANEOUS. 153 
 
 reduced to a soft pulp; strain through a fine sieve, 
 add three pounds of sugar, and evaporate over 
 boiling water until the paste becomes quite stiff. 
 Place the warm paste in a mould, made from an 
 ordinary wooden box, by removing the nails with 
 which the sides are fastened, and holding them in 
 place by a stout string, instead. When the paste 
 is cooled, by removing the string, the sides may 
 be taken away, leaving the paste in a square mass, 
 which may be divided in small pieces with a thin- 
 bladed knife. These pieces should be rolled in 
 fine sugar, after which they may be packed in 
 boxes without adhering to each other. 
 
 Second Method. — Take a heaping tablespoon- 
 ful of corn-starch, place in a saucepan, and add 
 first enough cold water to moisten the starch uni- 
 formly, and next a half pint of boiling water. 
 Heat over boiling water until it is thoroughly 
 cooked and becomes transparent. In fact, the 
 same steps should be taken as are employed by a 
 laundress in preparing a thick starch. Next add a 
 half pound of good brown or half-refined sugar, 
 and the strained pulp of four ounces of figs, pre- 
 pared as directed in the preceding paragraph, aftid 
 
 7* 
 
154 HOW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 evaporate the paste over boiling water until it 
 becomes quite thick and adhesive in character. 
 Place in the mould as previously directed, and 
 treat in the same manner when cold. In this 
 general way, and from the same material as a base, 
 are prepared the many semi-transparent pastes which 
 are sold under various names. By adding grated 
 cocoanut, chopped raisins deprived of their seeds, 
 dried currants, etc., many styles may be produced. 
 The paste may be flavored and colored as desired. 
 The pulps of various preserved fruits, as currant, 
 raspberry, strawberry, etc., may likewise be added 
 before evaporation. 
 
 Large quantities of these pastes are prepared 
 by several firms in New York and Boston who 
 make a specialty of such products. By the aid 
 of steam they are enabled to make them of uni- 
 form quality, and sell them so cheaply as to ob- 
 tain a practical monopoly of their manufacture. 
 Though the process employed is simple enough, 
 its practical application is attended with many dif- 
 ficulties unless proper machinery and appliances 
 are used. It will hardly pay, therefore, to under- 
 take the preparation of such goods on a small 
 scale. 
 
MISCELLANEO US. 
 
 155 
 
 Marsh Mallow Paste. — Dissolye one pound 
 of clean gum arabic in one quart of water ; 
 strain, add one pound of refined sugar, and 
 place over a fire, stirring continually until the 
 sugar is dissolved and the mixture has become of 
 the consistence of honey. Next, add gradually 
 the whites of eight eggs well beaten, stirring the 
 mixture all the time, until it loses its stickiness 
 and does not adhere to the fingers when touched. 
 The mass may now be poured out into a pan or 
 box, slightly dusted with starch, and when cool 
 divided into small squares or strips. In some 
 cases the mass is rolled in thin sheets while 
 warm, and strips cut off, which are dusted with 
 Si;arch and formed in rolls by folding. Just before 
 teyning out the paste it should be flavored. For 
 this purpose neroli or rose is usually employed. 
 
 Jujube Paste. — Take of gum arabic one 
 pound ; dissolve in a pint and a half of water 
 and add one pound of sugar. Evaporate to a very 
 thick consistence, and when cooled a little, but 
 while still warm enough to run, turn into shallow 
 tin pans which have previously been oiled. Any 
 flavor may be added before turning it out. 
 
15^ 
 
 HO IV TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 Candied Flag. — Take any convenient quan- 
 tity of freshly-gathered flag-root ; cut in small 
 pieces and boil for two hours in enough thick 
 simple syrup to keep the pieces covered. Pour 
 off the superfluous syrup, and allow the candied 
 flag to dry, or after draining a few minutes roll 
 the moist pieces in fine sugar, which will adhere 
 and form a coating. If the full strength of the 
 flag is not desired, it may be boiled in water 
 for a short time, and the water poured away be- 
 fore adding the syrup. Confectioners sometimes 
 coat the pieces after they have been boiled in 
 the syrup, with a covering of hard sugar, by the 
 same method used in preparing sugared almonds. 
 
 Candied Ginger. — Take any desired quantity 
 of green ginger-root ; remove the outer skin by 
 immersing it a few minutes in boiling water, after 
 which the skin may easily be rubbed off. Cut 
 in pieces, and boil in thick simple syrup until it 
 becomes quite soft and transparent in appearance. 
 In this state it may be used as a preserve, but 
 if wanted in the form of a dried confection, the 
 boiling should be continued over a slow fire until 
 the water has evaporated from the syrup, and it 
 
MISCELLANEOUS. 157 
 
 shows a tendency to granulate. The superfluous 
 syrup may now be poured off, and the candied 
 ginger placed in a warm room to dry. If too 
 strong as thus prepared, the ginger may first be 
 boiled in water to remove a portion of its pun- 
 gency. 
 
 Vinegar Candy. — This is a form of candy 
 of an essentially domestic character. Several 
 receipts for its preparation have been published, 
 but the general mode of procedure in each case 
 varies but slightly. The following will perhaps 
 prove as satisfactory as any. To one quart of 
 good New Orleans molasses add one teacupful of 
 good cider vinegar. Boil until it reaches the point 
 where a little dropped into cold water becomes 
 very hard and brittle. Pour into shallow platters 
 until cool enough to be handled, and form into 
 a large roll which may be drawn down t<3 any 
 size and cut off in sticks. 
 
 Artificial Honey. — Many receipts have from 
 time to time appeared for the preparation of 
 syrupy compounds which are said to be as good 
 as the real honey produced by the industriou:^ 
 
158 HO W TO MAKE CAND V. 
 
 insect whose time and energies are exclusively 
 given to its manufacture. 
 
 The truth is, the " little busy bee " has the 
 only correct formula for making the genuine arti- 
 cle, and he has not yet published it. The many 
 imitations are very inferior to the real article, and 
 generally depend upon a portion of it for what 
 little honey flavor they may have. As a matter 
 of interest the following directions are given, and 
 the compound prepared therefrom will be found 
 to be a very superior substitute when it is not 
 desirable to use the genuine — but it is a substi- 
 tute only. 
 
 Take of refined sugar three pounds, water one 
 pint, gum arabic two ounces. Dissolve the gum 
 in the water, add the sugar and boil for about 
 twenty minutes, taking care that it does not 
 burn. Flavor with five drops of an extract pre- 
 pared as follows : Oil of rose, ten drops, oil of 
 peppermint, twenty drops, oil of spearmint, ten 
 drops, extract of jasmine, one half ounce, alcohol, 
 two ounces. The " honey " thus prepared may be 
 slightly tinged with a little tincture of saffron. 
 The syrup, without any flavoring, may be used to 
 mix with very strongly-flavored honey, and such 
 
MISCELLANEOUS. i^^ 
 
 mixture is. by some thought to be an improve- 
 ment, for the reason that it is milder to the 
 taste and less apt to disturb the stomach than 
 the genuine. 
 
 Lemon Sugar. — This preparation, though a 
 very unsatisfactory substitute for the real fruit in 
 making lemonade, is yet used in considerable 
 quantities during the summer months. There are 
 two styles in market, one composed of sugar and 
 tartaric acid mixed and flavored with lemon, the* 
 other being sugar with the lemon flavor alone, 
 the acid being contained in a small bottle which 
 is inserted in the sugar at the top of the box 
 in which it is packed. In one case enough of 
 the mixture is taken to make a pleasant tasting 
 solution ; in the other, the flavored sugar is first 
 dissolved in the water, and a few drops of the 
 acid solution added. The use of this acid solu- 
 tion, if made from tartaric or citric acid, is not 
 objectionable. In many instances, however, sul- 
 phuric acid is substituted, and, although its use 
 in the very dilute form required may not be 
 productive of any great injury, it is certainly not 
 as well -adapted for a drink- as the pure, vegeta- 
 
i6o ^OIV TO MAKE CANDY, 
 
 ble acids. For home tise, there is no necessity 
 of uniting the ingredients in the form of a special 
 preparation. Lemonade may easily be prepared 
 by acidulating iced water with a little powdered 
 tartaric or citric acid, sweetening to the taste, and 
 flavoring with a few drops of lemon extract. 
 
 Made in this manner, the lemonade is a very 
 acceptable substitute for that made directly from 
 the fruit. The lemon sugar is, however, at the 
 best, a very inferior preparation, as the flavor of 
 Ihe lemon soon loses its delicacy and acquires 
 a disagreeable taste resembling that of turpen- 
 tine. 
 
 If a quantity of lemonade is needed, as at a 
 picnic or other gathering, don't buy any lemon 
 sugar to make it of, no matter how highly re- 
 commended. Procure from the druggist enough 
 pure citric or tartaric acid (the first-named is 
 better in flavor, the last cheaper in price), to 
 render the required quantity of water pleasantly 
 sour. Add sugar to sweeten, and lemon extract 
 to flavor, and the lemonade will be complete 
 without the risk of injury to those partaking of it. 
 
 Soda Powders. — These powd^s- are quite 
 
MISCELLANEOUS, i6i 
 
 freely used in the summer months in the prepa^ 
 ration of a pleasant effervescing drink, especially 
 in places remote from easy access to the modern 
 " soda fountain." They are made by folding in a 
 blue paper thirty grains of the bi-carbonate of 
 soda, the same as that used for baking purposes, 
 and in a white paper, twenty-five grains of pow- 
 dered tartaric acid. They may be used with any 
 of the fruit syrups prepared in accordance with 
 previous directions, using the precaution to dissolve 
 the acid in the tumbler containing the syrup, and 
 the soda in a little water only, in another glass. 
 In order to prepare a number of the powders, a 
 measure can easily be made by taking an ordi- 
 nary paper pill-box and putting into it the exact 
 quantity of soda for a single powder. It should 
 be slightly shaken until the surface is level, and 
 a line exactly even therewith drawn with a pencil 
 around the inside of the box. 
 
 The portion of the box above this line may 
 then be removed with a sharp knife, and the re- 
 mainder fastened to a short flat handle. By fill- 
 ing it with the powdered soda, and stroking off 
 the excess with a knife or spatula, a uniform 
 amount may be measured for each powder. 
 
i62 HO IV TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 Another box should in like manner be prepared 
 for the acid. 
 
 Ginger Beer Powders. — Pulverized sugar, 
 two drams, powdered ginger of good quality, five 
 grains, carbonate of soda, thirty grains. Mix and 
 fold in a blue paper. In a white paper fold 
 twenty-five grains of tartaric acid. Use the same 
 as soda powders. For forty-eight powders the 
 above proportions will require one pound of 
 sugar, one half ounce of ginger, and three ounces 
 of soda. 
 
 These may first be thoroughly mixed and 
 divided in separate powders by a measure con- 
 structed as for the soda powders. Two and a 
 half ounces of the powdered acid will make forty- 
 eight white papers. 
 
 Seidlitz Powders. — These are used as a 
 medicine rather than as a pleasant drink, though 
 they may be rendered more palatable by the use 
 of a small quantity of fruit syrup with the acid. 
 For twelve powders take one ounce of bi-carbon- 
 ate of soda and three ounces of powdered Ro- 
 ch«lle salts ; mix thoroughly, and divide into 
 
MISCELLANEOUS, 163 
 
 powders by the use of a measure specially pre- 
 pared for this purpose. Fold in blue paper. For 
 the acid powders to accompany the above, divide 
 seven drams of powdered tartaric acid into twelve 
 equal parts. Fold in white papers. 
 
 Cheap Candies.— A great deal of candy has 
 of late been offered at extremely low rates at 
 retail, from twenty to twenty-five cents per pound 
 being the usual price. It is generally composed 
 of many varieties, principally, however, of those 
 which offer the largest opportunities for adultera- 
 tion. 
 
 Of the different kinds going to make up the 
 assortment, the bonbons, lozenges, and similar can- 
 dies are composed of a mixture of terra alba and 
 cheap sugar, the gum-drops are made from corn- 
 starch, and the stick candies from glucose or starch 
 sugar. This latter substance is not especially in- 
 jurious, but the candy made from it is not nearly 
 so fine in taste as that prepared from pure cane 
 sugar. Such candy may be detected by its lack 
 of sweetness, the yellowish color of that which is 
 sold for white, and its peculiar lack of tenacity 
 which causes the sticks to break very easily. 
 
1 64 J^OW TO MAKE CANDY. 
 
 Candy prepared from pure . sugar, of the stick 
 and other varieties made by boiling, could per- 
 haps be afforded at twenty-five c^nts per pound, 
 but this would hardly cover the cost of the best 
 kinds of the mixed grades, which are made 
 from fine and pure materials. 
 
 The nuts and fruits used in the cheaper vari- 
 eties are also of poor quality, being mostly worm- 
 eaten, old, or damaged. It will be found much 
 the better way, if economy is an object, to pre- 
 pare the simpler varieties at home. 
 
INDEX 
 
 PA6lt 
 
 Almond Bonbons. . , 85 
 
 . Almonds, Sugared 150 
 
 •4 Anise, Oil of It 
 
 " Candy 6j 
 
 Artificial Essences 
 
 , " Honey 157 
 
 >4 Banana Candy 6a 
 
 " Essence of. 37 
 
 Bath Pipe.. . 12a 
 
 y Bitter Almond, Extract of 16 
 
 A Blue Coloring 41 
 
 Boneset Lozenges 119 
 
 Bronchial Troches , 116 
 
 Butter Scotch 72 
 
 Burnt Sugar 145 
 
 Cachous 146 
 
 " Hooper's, How Made 147 
 
 " Flavor for 147 
 
 " Coating of with Silver 148 
 
 Calamus, Flavor of 15 
 
 Candied Flag 156 
 
 "^ Ginger 156 
 
 Candies from Boiled Sugar 53 
 
 "■■^" Forming of in Sticks 55 
 
 " " " Drops 56 
 
 " Striping of 57 
 
 " Working of 58 
 
 Capsicum 16 
 
 Cardamon, Extract of 17 
 
 Carrawa V, Oil of 14 
 
 Cheap Candies 163 
 
 Checkerberry 15 
 
 ^ Chocolate Bonbons 85 
 
 " Caramels 73 
 
 " Cream Drops 87 
 
 " " " Covering of 90 
 
 Creamfor 88 
 
 " Cream Candy 65 
 
 - Chlorate of Potash Troches 120 
 
 A Cinnamon Candy 63 
 
 " Extract of 13 
 
 Oil of 12 
 
 Clove Candy , 63 
 
i66 INDEX. 
 
 PAGB 
 
 Clove, Extract of 14 
 
 Cocoanut Candy 65 
 
 Colorings 39 
 
 Coloring of Bonbons 86 
 
 Coltsfoot Rock 120 
 
 Coriander 15 
 
 Corn Balls 74 
 
 " Cake 75 
 
 Cough Candy 76 
 
 '' Lozenges 114 
 
 " Pastiles 114 
 
 " Troches 114 
 
 Cream Almonds 93 
 
 " Bonbons 78 
 
 " Candy 64 
 
 *' for Chocolate Drops 88 
 
 " Lozenges 113 
 
 " Walnuts 93 
 
 " Crystallizing 84 
 
 Fig Paste 152 
 
 Flag, Candied 156 
 
 Flavors 7 
 
 Flavoring Extracts 10 
 
 Frosting Sugar 149 
 
 Fruit Essences, Artificial 33 
 
 " Syrups lai 
 
 Ginger 17 
 
 " Jamaica, Extract of 19 
 
 " Beer Powders 162 
 
 " Candied 156 
 
 Golden Drips 144 
 
 Green Coloring 41 
 
 Gum Drops 94 
 
 Pastes. 
 
 153 
 
 Honey, Artificial 156 
 
 Horehound Candy 75 
 
 " Lozenges 118 
 
 Icing Sugar 149 
 
 Jokes, for the Breath 148 
 
 Jujube Paste 155 
 
 Lemon Bonbons 84 
 
 " Candy 60 
 
 " Flavoring Extract of 21 
 
 , " Sugar 159 
 
 Lozenge r lavors 105 
 
 " Making 97 
 
 Lozenges, Anise 105 
 
 " Aromatic and Fruit 97 
 
 " Boneset. . .. ; 119 
 
 " Cachou *. 107 
 
 " 148 
 
 " Cayenne lod 
 
 " Chocolate 106 
 
 " Cinnamon ; 105 
 
 Cough 114 
 
r- 
 
 INDEX, 167 
 
 PAGB 
 
 Lozenges,Cream 113 
 
 " Crystal iia 
 
 " Clove los 
 
 " Currant 106 
 
 " Diadem 113 
 
 " Ginger ^.. 107 
 
 " Horehound 118 
 
 *' Lemon. 108 
 
 " Liquorice i iq 
 
 Medicated 11^ 
 
 *' Musk 108 
 
 " Orange 109 
 
 " Peppermint 109 
 
 " Pineapple i ro 
 
 " Quince no 
 
 *' Raspberry • no 
 
 " Rose Ill 
 
 " Sassafras. m 
 
 *' Sarsaparilla m 
 
 Vanilla nx 
 
 " Wintergreen 112 
 
 Marshmallow Paste 155 
 
 Molasses Candy 69 
 
 " " Old Fashioned 60 
 
 White 70 
 
 Neroli, Oil of 24 
 
 Orange Bonbons 84 
 
 " Extract of. 23 
 
 " Flower Flavor 23 
 
 Peanut Candy 73 
 
 Peppermint Candy 63 
 
 *' Drops , . 67 
 
 Pineapple Candy 62 
 
 " Essence of 37. 
 
 Piping 104 
 
 Pulmonic Wafers 114 
 
 Purple Coloring 41 
 
 Raspberry Candy 62 
 
 " Essence of 38 
 
 " _ " for Syrups 131 
 
 Red Coloring 39 
 
 Rose Candy 63 
 
 " Extract of 27 
 
 " Water 27 
 
 Sassafras Candy 63 
 
 Oil of 27 
 
 Seidlitz Powders 162 
 
 Soda Powders 160 
 
 Soda Water Syrups , 121 
 
 Starch Moulds 80 
 
 Strawberry Candy 62 
 
 " Essence of 38 
 
 Sugared Almonds 1 50 
 
 " Dates ' 15J 
 
1 68 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Sugar, Action of Heat on , 48 
 
 " Boiling 49 
 
 " " Utensils for 52 
 
 " Brown 43 
 
 " Creaming of for Bonbons 79 
 
 " Crushed , 47 
 
 " Frosting 
 
 " Granulated 47 
 
 " Loaf 46 
 
 " Refined. 44 
 
 Syrup, Ambrosia 142 
 
 " Catawba 140 
 
 " Champagne 141 
 
 " Chocolate 135 
 
 " Claret 140 
 
 " Coffee 135 
 
 " Cream 137 
 
 " Fancy _. 142 
 
 " Ginger 126 
 
 " Ginger Ale 127 
 
 " Hock 140 
 
 " Lemon 124 
 
 " Milk Punch 140 
 
 " Nectar ." 142 
 
 " Orange 126 
 
 " Orgeat 141 
 
 " Pineapple 134 
 
 " Raspberry 127 
 
 " Sarsaparilla 138 
 
 " Sherry Cobbler 142 
 
 " Simple 122 
 
 " Sugar House 143 
 
 " Strawberry 131 
 
 " Vanilla -" 126 
 
 " Wild Cherry 136 
 
 " Wintergreen 137 
 
 Taffy 7* 
 
 " Everton 71 
 
 Trix for the Breath 148 
 
 Troches, Bronchial 116 
 
 " Chlorate of Potash 120 
 
 Vanilla, Extract of Commercial 31 
 
 " " "• Common .• 31 
 
 '' " " Pure 29 
 
 Vinegar Candy 157 
 
 Walnut Candy 72 
 
 ' ' Bonbons 86 
 
 Wintergreen, Essence of 33 
 
 " Candy 63 
 
 Yellow Coloring , 40 
 
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