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EVERY LADY 
 
 HER OWN 
 
 FLOWER GARDENER. 
 
EVERY LADY 
 
 Ber Own 
 
 FLOWER GARDENER. 
 
 ADDRESSED TO THE 
 
 INDUSTRIOUS AND ECONOMICAL ONLY. 
 
 BY LOUISA JOHNSON. 
 
 LONDON : 
 We. S. ORR AND CO., AMEN CORNER, 
 
 PATERNOSTER ROW. 
 
 MDCCCXXXIX 
 
W. L. GRAVES, AND CO, PRINTERS, HOLBORN HILL, LONDON 
 
{ 
 ; 
 
 I wave been induced to compile this little work from 
 
 hearing many of my companions regret that no single 
 book contained a sufficiently condensed and general ac- 
 count of the business of a Flower Garden. “ We require,” 
 they said, “a work ina small compass, which will enable 
 us to become our own gardene:: we wish to know how to 
 set about everything ourselves, without expense, without 
 being deluged with Latin words and technical terms, and 
 without being obliged to pick our way through multiplied 
 publications, redolent of descriptions, and not always par- 
 ticularly lucid. We require a practical work, telling us of 
 useful flowers, simple modes of rearing them, simply ex- 
 pressed, and free from lists of plants and roots which 
 
PREFACE 
 
 require expensive methods of preservation. Some of us 
 have gardens, but we cannot afford a gardener: we like 
 flowers, but we cannot attempt to take more than common 
 pains to raise them. We require to know the hardiest 
 flowers, and to comprehend the general business of the 
 garden, undisturbed by fear of failure, and at the most 
 economical scale of expense. Who will write us such a 
 book ?” 
 
 I have endeavoured to meet their views ; and my plan of 
 Floriculture may be carried into effect by any lady who can 
 command the services of an old man, a woman, or a stout 
 boy. I have omitted the names of all tender plants; and 
 I have given a chapter to each class of plants in language 
 as plain as the subject would allow. I have avoided tech- 
 nicality ; and I have endeavoured to execute my task with 
 a due respect to economy, simplicity, and arrangement. 
 I dedicate my work to all of my own sex who delight in 
 flowers, and yet cannot allow themselves to enter into great 
 expense in their cultivation. 
 
 L. JOHNSON. 
 
 July 19, 1839. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Pleasures of Gardening—How conducive to health—Early taste 
 for Gardening in England—Pleasure-gardens at Theobalds— 
 Gardening for Ladies. - ; = - page 1—5 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 GENERAL REMARKS. 
 Situation for a Flower-garden—On improving the Soil—Aspect 
 and choice of Flowers—Monthly Roses—Rustic Stages—Garden 
 
 Tools, and Working Dress—India-rubber Shoes indispens- 
 able . : . . “ : : ‘ . 6—12 
 
 CHAPTER I1. 
 LAYING OUT, 
 
 Arrangement of Plants—Root-houses—Annuals—Biennials—Pe- 
 rennials—Planting out Beds—Amelioration of Soils—Monthly 
 Lists of Flowers—Destructive habits of Hares and Rabbits— 
 Snails, Earwigs, Mildew and Blight—Neatness and order in- 
 dispensable in a well-kept Garden — Spring Plants—List of 
 Perennials. ; : . ‘ . * . 13—85 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 BULBS AND PERENNIALS. 
 Transplanting Bulbs—Advantage of Salt Manures—Best arrange- 
 ment for choice Bulbs—Select Lists—Fibrous-rooted Flowers— 
 Biennials—Their propagation— Protection necessary 36—61 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 ANNUALS. 
 and trimming Plants—List 
 page 62—70 
 
 Sowing and gathering Seed—Training 
 of Annuals 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 ROSES AND JASMIN 
 
 Poetry of Flowers—Varieties of Roses—Pyramids—Climbing va- 
 rieties—Insects injurious to the Ros List of Roses—Luxu- 
 he Jasmine—Devices for displaying its 
 71—80 
 
 riant appearance of t 
 beauty 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 SHRUBS AND EVERGREE 
 
 Distance between each—Various modes of propa- 
 
 On Planting: 
 81—88 
 
 gating—List of best Garden Sorts—Pruning 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 MONTHLY NOTICES. 
 
 Recapitulation of Work to be done in each Month . 89—96 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Ir has been well remarked that a garden affords 
 the purest of human pleasures. The study of 
 Nature is interesting in all her manifold combina- 
 tions: in her wildest attitudes, and in her artful 
 graces. The mind is amused, charmed, and asto- 
 nished in turn, with contemplating her inex- 
 haustible display ; and we worship the God who 
 created such pure and simple blessings for his 
 creatures. These blessings are open to all de- 
 grees and conditions of men. Nature is not a 
 boon bestowed upon the high-born, or purchased 
 by the wealthy at a kingly price. The poor, the 
 blind, the halt, and the dise ased, enjoy her beauty, 
 
 and derive benefit from her study. Every cottager 
 enjoys the little garden which furnishes his table 
 with comforts, and his mind with grateful feel- 
 ings, if that mind is susceptible of religious im- 
 pressions. He contemplates the gracious Provi- 
 dence which has bestowed such means of enjoy- 
 
 ment upon him, as the Father whose all-seeing 
 eye provides for the lowliest of his children; and 
 who has placed the ‘ purest of human pleasures ” 
 within the reach of all who are not too blind to 
 
 B 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 behold his mercy. With this blessed view before 
 his mental sight, the cottager cultivates his little 
 homestead. he flowers and fruits of the earth 
 bud, bloom, and decay in their season, but 
 Nature again performs her deputed mission, and 
 spring succeeds the dreary winter with renewed 
 beauty and two-fold increase. Health accompa- 
 nies simple and natural pleasures. The culture of 
 the ground affords a vast and interminable field of 
 observation, in which the mind ranges with sin-~ 
 gular pleasure, though the body travels not. It 
 surrounds home with an unceasing interest; do- 
 mestic scenes become endeared to the eye and 
 mind; worldly cares recede; and we may truly 
 say— 
 “For us kind Nature wakes her genial power, 
 
 Suckles each herb, and spreads out every flower! 
 
 Annual for us, the grape, the rose, renew 
 
 The juice nectarious, and the balmy dew: 
 
 For us, the mine a thousand treasures brings; 
 
 For us, health gushes from a thousand springs.” 
 Eth. ep. i. ver. 129. 
 
 The taste for gardening in England began to 
 display itself in the reign of Edward III., in whose 
 time the first work on the subject was composed 
 by Walter de Henly. Flower-gardening followed 
 slowly in its train. The learned Linacre, who 
 died in 1524, introduced the damask rose from 
 Italy into England. King James I. of Scotland, 
 when a prisoner in Windsor Castle, thus describes 
 its “‘ most faire” garden :— 
 
 “ Now was there maide fast by the towris wall, 
 
 A garden faire, and in the corneris set 
 
INTRODUCTION: 3 
 
 An herbere green, with wandis long and small 
 Railit about, and so with treeis set 
 Was all the place, and hawthorn hedges knet, 
 That lyfe was now, walking there forbye, 
 That might within scarce any wight espie, 
 So thick the bowis and the leves grene 
 Berchudit all, the alleyes all that there were; 
 And myddis every herbere might be sene 
 The scharpe grene swete junipere 
 Growing so fair, with branches here and there, 
 That, as it seymt to a lyfe without, 
 The bowis spred the herbere all about.” 
 The Quair. 
 Henry VIII. ordered the formation of his garden 
 at Nonsuch about the year 1509, and Leland says 
 it was a “ Nonpareil.” Hentyner assures us of 
 its perfect beauty, describing one of its marble 
 basins as being set round with “ lilac trees, which 
 trees bear no fruit, but only a pleasant smell.’” 
 The pleasure-gardens at Theobalds, the seat of 
 Lord Burleigh, were a unique, according to the 
 report of Lyson. In it were nine knots exqui- 
 sitely made, one of which was set forth in like- 
 ness of the king’s arms. ‘‘ One might walk two 
 myle in the walks before he came to an end.” 
 Queen Elizabeth was extremely fond of flowers, 
 and her taste ever influenced that of her court. 
 Gilliflowers, carnations, tulips, Provence and musk 
 roses, were brought to England in her reign. 
 William III. loved a pleasaunce or pleasure- 
 garden; but he introduced the Dutch fashion of 
 laying them out, which is still horrible in our 
 eyes. His Queen superintended in person all her 
 arrangements in the flower-garden,—an amuse- 
 ment particularly delightful to her. In those 
 B 2 
 
4 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 days, “ knottes and mazes”’ were no longer the 
 pride of a parterre, with a due allowance of 
 ‘* pleasant and fair fishponds.” 
 
 Queen Anne remodelled the gardens at Ken- 
 sington, and did away with the Dutch inventions. 
 Hampton Court was also laid out in a more per- 
 fect state in her reign, under the direction of 
 Wise. 
 
 Since that period, flower-gardening has pro- 
 gressed rapidly; and the amusement of floricul- 
 ture has become the dominant passion of the 
 ladies of Great Britain. It is a passion most 
 blessed in its effects, considered as an amusement 
 or a benefit. Nothing humanizes and adorns the 
 female mind more surely than a taste for orna- 
 mental gardening. - It compels the reason to act, 
 and the judgment to observe; it is favourable to 
 meditation of the most serious kind; it exercises 
 the fancy in harmless and elegant occupation, and 
 braces the system by its healthful tendency. A 
 ficwer-garden, to the young and single of my sex, 
 acts upon the heart and affections as a nursery 
 acts upon the matronly feelings. It attaches them 
 to their home; it throws a powerful charm over 
 the spot dedicated to such deeply-interesting em- 
 ployment; .and it lures them from dwelling too 
 deeply upon the unavoidable disappointments and 
 trials of life, which sooner or later disturb and dis- 
 quiet the heart. 
 
 An amusement which kings and princes have 
 stamped with dignity, and which has afforded 
 them recreation under the toils of government, 
 must-become for ever venerated, and will be sought 
 
INTRODUCTION, Oo 
 
 for by every elegant as well as by every scientific 
 mind. Floriculture ranges itself under the head 
 of female accomplishments i in these our days; and 
 we turn with pity from the spirit which will not 
 find in her “ garden of roses” the simplest and 
 purest of pleasures. 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 In the laying out of a garden, the soil and situa- 
 | tion must be considered as much as the nature of 
 | i! the ground will admit. Let no lady, however, 
 pH despair of being able to raise fine flowers upon 
 any soil, providing the sun is not too much ex- 
 cluded, for the rays of the sun are the vital prin- 
 ciple of existence to all vegetation. The too 
 powerful rays can be warded off by the arts of in- 
 vention, but we have yet no substitute for that 
 glorious orb. Unless its warm and forcing influ- 
 ence is allowed to extend over the surface of the 
 garden, all flowers wither, languish, and die. Sun 
 and air are the lungs and heart of flowers. A lady 
 will be rewarded for her trouble in making her 
 parterre in the country; but in large towns, under 
 the influence of coal smoke, shade, and gloom, 
 her lot will be constant disappointment. She can 
 only hope to keep a few consumptive geraniums 
 languishing through the summer months, to die 
 in October, and show the desolating view of rows 
 of pots containing blackened and dusty stems. 
 Many soils which are harsh or arid, are suscep- 
 tible of improvement by a little pains. Thus, a 
 
IMPROVEMENT OF SOILS. 7 
 
 stiff clay, by digging well and leaving it to become 
 pulverized by the action of the frost, and then 
 mixing plenty of ashes with it, becomes a fine 
 mould, which I have ever found most excellent 
 for all flowers of the hardier kind. The black 
 soil is the richest in itself, and requires no as- 
 sistance beyond changing it about a foot in depth 
 every three years, as a flower garden requires 
 renewing, if a lady expects a succession of hand- 
 some flowers. The ground should be well dug 
 the latter end of September or October, or even 
 in November, and if the soil is not sufficiently 
 fine, let it be dug over a second or third time, 
 and neatly raked with a very fine-toothed rake. 
 
 Stony ground requires riddling well, and great 
 care must be taken to keep it neat by picking up 
 the little stones which constantly force themselves 
 to the surface after rains. Nothing is so unbe- 
 coming as weeds and stones in parterres, where 
 the eye seeks flowers and neatness. 
 
 Almost every plant loves sand; and if that 
 can be procured, it enriches and nourishes the 
 soil, especially for bulbs, pinks, carnations, auri- 
 culas, hyacinths, &c. Let it be mixed in the pro- 
 portion of a third part to the whole. 
 
 If dead leaves are swept into a mound every 
 autumn, and the soap suds, brine, &c. of the 
 house be thrown upon it, the mass will quickly 
 decompose, and become available the following 
 year. It makes an admirable compost for auri- 
 culas, &c., mixed with garden or other mould. 
 
 If the ground be a gravelly soil, the flower- 
 garden should not slope, for stony ground re- 
 
ASPECT FOR FLOWERS. 
 
 quires all the moisture you can give it, while the 
 sloping situation would increase the heat and dry- 
 ness. A moist earth, on the contrary, would be 
 improved by being sloped towards the east or 
 west, 
 
 The south is not so proper for flowers, as a 
 glaring sun withers the tender flowers; but the 
 north must be carefully avoided, and shut out by 
 a laurel hedge, a wall, or any rural fence garnished 
 with hardy creepers, or monthly roses, which make 
 a gay and agreeable defence. Monthly roses are 
 invaluable as auxiliaries of all kinds. ‘They will 
 grow in any soil, and bloom through the winter 
 months, always giving a delicate fragrance, and 
 smiling even in the snow. Monthly roses will 
 ever be the florist’s delight: they are the hardiest, 
 most delicate-looking, and greenest-leaved of gar- 
 den productions; they give no trouble, and speedily 
 form a beautiful screen against any offensive ob- 
 ject. No flower garden should exist without abun- 
 dance of monthly roses. 
 
 It has often been a disputed point whether flower 
 gardens should be intersected with gravel walks 
 or with grass plots. ‘This must be left entirely to 
 the taste and means of the party forming a garden. 
 Lawn is as wet and melancholy in the winter 
 months, as it is beautiful and desirable in summer; 
 and it requires great care and attention in mow- 
 ing and rolling, and trimming round the border. 
 Gravel walks have this advantage: the first trou- 
 ple is the last. They will only require an old 
 woman’s or a child’s assistance in keeping them 
 ree from weeds; and a lady has not the same 
 
RUSTIC STAGES. 9 
 
 fears of taking cold, or getting wet in her feet, 
 during the rains of autumn and spring. 
 
 Many females are unequal to the fatigue of 
 bending down to flowers, and particularly object 
 to the stooping posture. In this case, ingenuity 
 alone is required to raise the flowers to a conve- 
 nient height; and, by so doing, to increase the 
 beauty and picturesque appearance of the garden. 
 Old barrels cut in half, tubs, pails, &c., neatly 
 painted outside, or adorned with rural ornaments, 
 and raised upon feet neatly carved, or mounds of 
 earth, stand in lieu of richer materials, such as 
 vases, parapet walls, and other expensive devices, 
 which ornament the gardens of the wealthy. I 
 have seen these humble materials shaped into 
 forms as pleasing to the eye, and even more con- 
 sonant to our damp climate, than marble vases. 
 They never look green from time, and are renewed 
 at a very trifling expense. A few pounds of nails 
 and the unbarked thinnings from fir plantations, 
 are the sole requisites towards forming any device 
 which a tasteful fancy can dictate; and a little 
 green paint adds beauty and durability when the 
 bark falls from the wood it protects. I have seen 
 fir balls nailed on to these forms in tasteful pat- 
 terns; and creepers being allowed to fall gracefully 
 over the brims, give a remarkably pleasing and 
 varied appearance to the parterre. 
 
LADIES’ GARDEN TOOLS 
 
 Where mould is not easily to be procured—as, 
 for instance, in towns—the tubs or receptacles 
 may be half filled with any kind of rubble, only 
 space must be left to allow of two feet of fine 
 mould at the top, which is quite sufficient for 
 bulbous roots, creepers, &c. These receptacles 
 have one powerful advantage over ground plots: 
 they can be moved under sheds, or into out- 
 houses, during the heavy rains or frosts of winter; 
 and thereby enable a lady to preserve the more 
 delicate flowers, which would deteriorate by con- 
 stant exposure to inclement weather. 
 
 A lady requires peculiar tools for her light work, 
 She should possess a light spade; two rakes, one 
 with very fine teeth, and the other a size larger, 
 for cleaning the walks when they are raked, and 
 for raking the larger stones from the garden bor- 
 ders. A light garden fork is very necessary to 
 take up bulbous or other roots with, as the spade 
 would wound and injure them, whereas they pass 
 safely through the interstices of the fork or prong. 
 A watering-pot is indispensable, and a hoe. Two 
 trowels are likewise necessary: one should be a 
 tolerable size, to transplant perennial and bien- 
 nial flower roots; the other should be pointed 
 and small, to transplant the more delicate roots 
 of anemones, bulbs, &c. 
 
 The pruning-knife must be always sharp, and, 
 in shape, it should bend a little inwards, to facili- 
 tate cutting away straggling or dead shoots, 
 branches, &c. ‘The “avroncator,” lately so much 
 in request, is an admirable instrument; but it is 
 expensive, and of most importance in shrubberies, 
 
AND WORKING DRESS. I] 
 
 where heavy branches are to be cut away. The 
 Sieur Louis d’Auxerre, who wrote a work upon 
 gardening in 1706, has a sketch of the avron- 
 cator of the present day, which he designates as 
 caterpillar shears. 
 
 A light pair of shears, kept always in good 
 order, is necessary to keep privet or laurel hedges 
 properly clipped; anda stout deep basket must 
 be deposited in the tool-shed, to contain the weeds 
 and clippings. ‘These are the only tools abso- 
 lutely essential to a lady’s garden. I have seen a 
 great variety decorating the wall of an amateur 
 tool-house, but they must have been intended for 
 show, not for use. A real artiste, in whatever 
 profession she may engage, will only encumber 
 herself with essentials. All else is superfluous. 
 
 I have reserved two especially necessary recom- 
 mendations to the last, being comforts independent 
 of the tool-house. Every lady should be furnished 
 with a gardening apron, composed of stout Hol- 
 land, with ample pockets to contain her pruning- 
 knife, a small stout hammer, a ball of string, and 
 a few nails and snippings of cloth. Have nothing 
 to do with scissors: they are excellent in the work- 
 room, but dangerous in a flower garden, as they 
 wrench and wound the stems of flowers. The 
 knife cuts slanting, which is the proper way of 
 taking off slips; and the knife is sufficient for all 
 the purposes of a flower garden, even for cutting 
 string. 
 
 The second article which I pronounce to be in- 
 dispensable is a pair of Indian rubber shoes, or the 
 wooden high-heeled shoes called ‘‘ sabots” by the 
 
12 INDIA RUBBER SHOES. 
 
 French. In these protections, a lady may indulge 
 her passion for flowers at all seasons, without risk 
 of rheumatism or chills, providing it does not 
 actually rain or snow; and the cheering influence 
 of the fresh air, combined with a favourite amuse- 
 ment, must ever operate beneficially on the mind 
 and body in every season of the year. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 ON LAYING OUT. 
 
 THERE are many modes of adorning a small piece 
 of ground, so as contain gay flowers and plants, 
 and appear double its real size. By covering 
 every wall or palisade with monthly roses and 
 creepers of every kind, no space is lost, and 
 unsightly objects even contribute to the general 
 effect of a ‘ Plaisaunce.” The larger flowers, 
 such as hollyhocks, sunflowers, &e., look to the 
 best advantage as a back ground, either planted 
 in clumps, or arranged singly. Scarlet lychnis, 
 campanula, or any second-sized flowers, may 
 range themselves below, and so in graduated order, 
 till the eye reposes upon a foreground of pansies, 
 auriculas, polyanthuses, and innumerable humbler 
 beauties. Thus all are seen in their order, and 
 present a mass of superb colouring to the ob- 
 server, none interfering with the other. The 
 hollyhock does not shroud the lowly pansy from 
 displaying its bright tints of yellow and purple ; 
 neither can the sturdy and gaudy sunflower hide 
 the modest double violet or smartly clad anemone 
 from observation. Each flower is by this mode 
 of planting distinctly seen, and each contributes 
 
14 
 
 ARRANGING THE FLOWERS. 
 
 its beauty and its scent, by receiving the beams of 
 the sun in equal proportions. 
 
 If the trunk of a tree stands tolerably free from 
 deep overshadowing branches, twine the creeping 
 rose, the late honeysuckle, or the everlasting pea 
 round its stem, that every inch of ground may 
 become available. The tall naked stem of the 
 young ash looks well festooned with roses and 
 honeysuckles. Wherever creeping flowering plants 
 can live, let them adorn every nook and corner, 
 stem, wall, and post: they are elegant in appear- 
 ance, and many of them, particularly clematis, 
 are delicious in fragrant scent. 
 
 If flowers are planted in round or square plots, 
 the same rule applies in arranging them. The tall- 
 est must be placed in the centre, but I recommend a 
 lady to banish sunflowers and hollyhocks from her 
 plots, and consign them to broad borders against 
 a wall, or in clumps of three and three, as a screen 
 against the north, or against any unsightly object. 
 Their large roots draw so much nourishment from 
 the ground, that the lesser plants suffer, and the 
 soil becomes quickly exhausted. Like gluttons, 
 they should feed alone, or their companions will 
 languish in starvation, and become impoverished, 
 The wren cannot feed with the vulture. 
 
 The south end or corner of a moderate flower 
 garden should be fixed upon for the erection of a 
 root house, which is not an expensive under- 
 taking, and which forms a picturesque as well as 
 a most useful appendage to a lady’s parterre. 
 Thinnings of plantations, which are every where 
 procured at a very moderate charge, rudely shaped 
 
THE ROOT HOUSE. 15 
 
 and nailed into any fancied form, may supply all 
 that is needful to the little inclosure; and a thatch 
 of straw, rushes, or heather, will prove a sure de- 
 fence to the roof and back. There, a lady may 
 display her taste by the beauty of the flowers which 
 she may train through the rural frame-work. 
 There, the moss-rose, the jessamine, the honey- 
 suckle, the convolvulus, and many other bright and 
 beautiful flowers, may escape and cluster around 
 her, as she receives rest and shelter within their 
 graceful lattice-work. There, also, may be de- 
 posited the implements of her vocation ; and during 
 the severe weather, its warm precincts will protect 
 the finer kinds of carnations, pinks, auriculas, 
 &c., which do not bear the heavy rains, or frost of 
 lengthened duration, without injuring the plant. 
 
 Flowers are divided into three classes: —annuals, 
 biennials, and perennials. 
 
 Annuals are those flowers which are raised from 
 seeds alone, in the spring, and which die in the 
 autumn. They are again divided into three classes; 
 the tender and more curious kinds; the less tender 
 or hardier kinds; and the hardiest and common 
 kinds, 
 
 Biennials are those flowers which are produced 
 by seed, bloom the second year, and remain two 
 years in perfection: after which they gradually 
 dwindle and die away. 
 
 Some sorts, however, of the biennials, afford a 
 continuation of plants by offsets, slips, and cuttings 
 of the tops, and by layers and pipings, so that, 
 though the parent flower dies, the species are per- 
 petuated, particularly to continue curious double- 
 
PLANTING BEDS. 
 
 flowered kinds, as for instance, double rockets, 
 by root offsets, and cuttings of the young flower- 
 stalks; double wallflowers by slips of the small 
 top shoots; double sweet-williams by layers and 
 pipings; and carnations by layers. 
 
 Perennials are those flowers which continue 
 many years, and are propagated by root offsets, 
 suckers, parting roots, &c., as will be more fully 
 particularised under the head of Perennials. 
 
 It has been a debated point among florists 
 whether plots or baskets should be devoted each 
 to a particular variety of flower, or receive flowers 
 of different kinds, flowering at separate seasons. 
 Thus, many ladies set apart one plot of ground 
 for anemones only—another plot receives only pan- 
 sies, and so on. There is much to be said on both 
 sides the question. 
 
 If a plot of ground is devoted to one variety of 
 flower only, you can give it the appropriate mould, 
 and amuse your eye with its expanse of bright 
 colouring. Nothing is more beautiful than a bed 
 of pansies, or a bed of the bright and glowing 
 scarlet verbina; nothing can exceed the gay and 
 flaunty tints of a bed of tulips, or the rich hues of 
 the lilac and the white petunia. A large space of 
 garden allows its possessor to revel in separate 
 beds of flowers, whose beauty is increased two-, 
 fold by masses ; and from that very space, the eye 
 does not so easily discover the melancholy appear- 
 ance of one or more plots exhibiting nothing but 
 dark mould, and withered stems, arising from the 
 earlier sorts being out of bloom. 
 
 But in less spacious gardens, this gloomy and 
 
AMELIORATION OF SOILS, 17 
 
 mournful vacuum must be avoided. Every border 
 and plot of ground should exhibit a gay succession 
 of flowers in bloom; and that object can only be 
 effected by a pretty equal distribution of flowers 
 of early and late growth. As the May flowers 
 droop, the June productions supply their place ; 
 and these, again, are followed in succession, till 
 the Golden rod and Michaelmas daisy announce 
 the decadence of the parterre for the year. 
 
 Yet every flower may be supplied with its fa- 
 vourite soil with a little patience and observation, 
 A light soil suits all descriptions very well; and I 
 never yet found disappointment in any description 
 of earth which was thoroughly well dug, and 
 dressed yearly from the mound of accumulated 
 leaves and soap-suds, alluded to in the first chap- 
 ter. I particularly recommend a portion of sand 
 mixed with the heap. All bulbs, carnations, pinks, 
 auriculas, ranunculuses, &c., love a mixture of 
 sand. I know no flowers of the hardy class which 
 reject it. Mix sand well into your borders and 
 plots, and you will not fail to have handsome 
 flowers. 
 
 I subjoin a list of common flowers appertaining 
 to each month, in order to fill the borders with 
 one or more roots of each variety. I do not in- 
 clude the annuals. 
 
 JANUARY. 
 
 In this month the following flowers are in blow :—~ 
 
 Single Anemones Primroses 
 
 Winter Cyclamens Winter Hyacinth 
 Michaelmas Daisy Narcissus of the East 
 Hepaticas Christmas Rose 
 
 Cc 
 
MONTHLY LIST 
 
 FEBRUARY. 
 Single Anemones Single yellow Gilliflower 
 Forward Anemones Single Liverwort 
 Persian Iris Winter Aconite 
 Spring Crocus Hepaticas 
 MARCH. 
 Bulbous Iris Jonquils 
 Anemones of all sorts Yellow Gilliflower 
 Spring Cyclamens Narcissus of several kinds 
 Liverwort of all sorts Forward Bears’-ears 
 Daffodils Forward Tulips 
 Crowfoots Single Primroses of divers 
 Spring Crocus colours : 
 Hyacinths of all sorts 
 APRIL. 
 Daisies Double Liverworts 
 Yellow Gilliflowers Primroses 
 Narcissus of all sorts Honeysuckles 
 Forward Bears’-ear Tulips 
 Spring Cyclamens Hyacinths 
 Crocus, otherwise called | Single Jonquils 
 Saffron-flowers Crown-Imperial 
 Anemones of all sorts Yellow Gilliflowers, double 
 Iris and single 
 Pansies Pasque-Flowers 
 Daffodils March Violets 
 MAY. 
 Anemones Double Jacea, a sort of Lych- 
 Gilliflowers of all sorts Pansies [nis 
 Yellow Gilliflowers Peonies of all sorts 
 Columbines Ranunculuses of all sorts 
 Asphodils Some Irises : as those which 
 Orange, or flame-coloured we call the Bulbous Irie, 
 
 Lilies and the Chame-Iris 
 
OF 
 
 Cyanuses of all sorts 
 Hyacinths 
 
 Day Lilies 
 
 Bastard Dittany 
 Daisies 
 
 Lily of the Valley 
 Mountain Pinks 
 
 PERENNIALS. 
 
 19 
 
 Italian Spiderwort, a sort of 
 Asphodil 
 
 Poet’s Pinks 
 
 Backward Tulips 
 
 Julians, otherwise called 
 English Gilliflowers 
 
 JUNE. 
 
 Snap-dragons of all sorts 
 Wild Tansies 
 Pinks, otherwise called Lych- 
 
 Climbers 
 Cyanuses of all sorts 
 Foxgloves of all sorts 
 
 Trises [nises | Mountain Lilies 
 Roses Gilliflowers of all sorts 
 Tuberoses Monks’-hoods 
 Pansies Pinks of all sorts 
 Larkspur Candy-tufts 
 Great Daisies Poppies 
 
 JULY. 
 Jessamine Pinks of the Poets 
 Spanish Broom Bee-flowers 
 Basils Sea-hollies 
 
 Bell-flowers 
 Indian Jacea 
 Great Daisies 
 Monks’-hoods 
 Pinks 
 
 Scabiuses 
 Nigellas 
 Cyclamens 
 Lobel’s Catch-flies 
 Lilies of all sorts 
 Apples of Love 
 Comfrey 
 
 Poppies 
 Snap-dragons 
 Double Marigolds 
 Amaranthuses 
 
 i 
 
 Foxgloves 
 
 Wild Poppies 
 Everlastings 
 
 Roses 
 
 Dittanies 
 Bindweeds 
 
 Lilies of St. Brune 
 Tricolours 
 
 Squills 
 Motherworts 
 Climbers 
 
 Oculus Christi 
 Camomile 
 Sunflowers 
 Belvederes 
 Gilliflowers of all sorts 
 
20 
 
 Oculus Christi, otherwise 
 called Starwort 
 Belvederes 
 Climbers of all sorts 
 Apples of Love 
 Marvels of Peru 
 Pansies 
 Ranunculuses 
 Double Marigolds 
 Candy-tufts 
 Autumn Cyclamens 
 
 Leve-apples 
 Marvel of Peru 
 Monks’: hood 
 Narcissus of Portugal 
 Snap-dragons 
 Oculns Christi 
 Basils 
 
 3elvederes 
 
 Great Daisies 
 Double Marigolds 
 Monthly Roses 
 Tuberoses 
 
 Tricolours 
 Oculus Christi 
 Snap-dragons 
 
 MONTHLY LIST. 
 
 Hellebore Thorn-apple 
 Ox-eyes Valerian 
 AUGUST. 
 
 Indian Narcissus 
 Foxgloves 
 Cyclamens 
 Passion-flowers 
 Everlastings 
 Tuberoses 
 Monks’-hood 
 Indian Pinks of all the kinds 
 Bindweed 
 Passvelours 
 Great Daisies 
 
 Jessamines White Bell-flower 
 Sunflowers, vivacious and | Autumnal Meadow Saffron 
 annual Gilliflowers 
 SEPTEMBER. 
 Tricolours Amaryllis 
 
 Autumnal Narcissus 
 White Bell-flowers 
 Indian Pinks 
 Indian Roses 
 Amaranthus 
 Pansies 
 Passion-flower 
 Autumnal Crocus 
 Thorn-apple 
 Carnations 
 Ranunculuses planted in May 
 Colchicums 
 
 OCTOBER. 
 
 Pansies that were sown in 
 August 
 Passion-flower 
 
RABBITS A NUISANCE. 21 
 
 Colchicums Passyelours 
 Autumn Crocus Double Marigolds 
 Autumnal Cyclamens Some Pinks 
 Monks’-hood Amaryllis 
 
 Indian Pinks Autumnal Narcissus 
 
 NOVEMBER. 
 
 Snap-dragons Double Violets 
 
 Double and Single Gilli- | Single Anemones of all sorts 
 flowers ; Winter @yclamens 
 
 Great Daisies Forward Hellebore 
 
 Pansies sown in August Golden Rod 
 
 Monthly Roses 
 
 Rabbits are an intolerable nuisance in a flower 
 garden, and in some country places they abound 
 most destructively. - A light wire fence about two 
 feet high, closely lattice-worked, or a net of the 
 same height, carried round the garden, is a sure 
 defence from these marauders. But where these 
 conveniences are unattainable, there are other 
 modes which answer the purpose, but they require 
 a little trouble and patience. 
 
 It is the well-known nature of Rabbits and 
 Hares to dislike climbing or entangling their feet; 
 and very simple inventions deter them from at- 
 tempting to gnaw the roots and hearts of flowers. 
 They will not walk upon straw or ashes strewed 
 thickly round any plant: they equally dislike a 
 fence of sticks placed round a plot, with bits of 
 white paper or card fastened to each stick; or a 
 string carried round the sticks a foot or two high. 
 If they cannot creepundera slight fence, they never 
 attempt to leap over it. Ifa stick is run into the 
 
¢ 
 
 tw 
 
 2 SNAILS AND EARWIGS. 
 
 ground close to a plant, and other sticks are slanted 
 from the ground towards that centre, the plant 
 will remain untouched, be the frost of ever so long 
 duration. 
 
 Snails are disagreeable intruders, but the fol- 
 lowing method is an exterminating war of short 
 duration :— 
 
 Throw cabbage leaves upon your borders over 
 night ; in the morning, early, you will find them 
 covered underneath with snails, which have taken 
 refuge there. Thus they are easily taken and 
 destroyed. 
 
 Earwigs are taken in numbers by hanging 
 gallipots, tubes, or any such receptacle, upon low 
 sticks in the borders over night. In these they 
 shelter themselves, and are consequently victimized 
 in the morning. The gallipots, broken bottles, 
 &c. should be placed upon the stick like a man’s 
 hat, that the vermin may ascend into them. 
 
 Ants are very great enemies to flowers; but I 
 know no method of attacking them, except in 
 their own strongholds, which I have always done 
 with cruel intrepidity and success. My only 
 plan was to lay open the little ant-hill, and pour 
 boiling water upon the busy insects, which des- 
 troyed at once the commonwealth, and the eggs 
 deposited within the mound. In some places 
 ants are extremely large and abundant, and they 
 quickly destroy the beauty of a flower by attack- 
 ing its root and heart.* 
 
 * The Emperor Pagonatus, who wrote a treatise upon 
 agriculture, assures us, that to clear a garden of ants, we 
 
MILDEW AND. BLIGHT. 23 
 
 Mildew and blight infest roses and honey- 
 suckles. Soap-suds thrown over rose bushes ; 
 heavy waterings with tobacco-water, or the water 
 in which potatoes have been boiled, is successful 
 in a degree, but the best way is a very troublesome 
 one to persevere in. Pinch every leaf well which 
 curls up, by which you may know a small maggot 
 is deposited therein. By so doing you destroy 
 the germ of a thousand little monsters. 
 
 Mildew and blight come from the east ; there- 
 fore honeysuckles should be sheltered from that 
 aspect; for, as they rise and spread widely, they 
 are not so manageable as a rose-bush. A mass 
 of luxuriant honeysuckles is beautiful to the eye 
 and delicious in fragrance: but covered with 
 mildew, it is a blackened and miserable object. 
 Mildew, fortunately, does not make its appearance 
 every spring; but once in four or five years it 
 comes as a plague, to desolate the garden. A 
 great deal may be raked away if taken off as soon 
 as it spreads its cobweb over these lovely flowers ; 
 but it should be done without delay. 
 
 I cannot lay too great stress upon the neatness 
 in which a lady’s garden should be kept. If it 
 is not beautifuily neat, it is nothing. For this 
 reason, keep every plant distinct in the flower- 
 beds ; let every tall flower be well staked, that the 
 wind may not blow it prostrate ; rake away dead 
 leaves from the beds, and trim every flower-root 
 from discoloured leaves, weeds, &c.; remove all 
 should burn empty snail shells with storax wood, and throw 
 
 the ashes upon the ant-hills, which obliges them to remove. 
 I never tried this method. 
 
24 DEFINITION OF TERMS. 
 
 weeds and stones tne moment they appear, and 
 clear away decaying stems, which are so littering 
 and offensive to the eye. There is always some 
 employment of this kind for every week in the 
 year. 
 
 Old iron :ods, both large and small, are to be 
 procured cheap at the ironmongers. These old 
 rusty rods, painted green, or lead colour, are ex- 
 cellent stakes for supporting flowers, and do not 
 wear out. The slighter rods are very firm upright 
 supporters fr Carnations, Pinks, &c., while the 
 taller and hrger rods are the firmest and best 
 poles for hdlyhocks, sunflowers, and the larger 
 class of plarts. Fix the flower stem to its stake 
 with string, or the tape of the bass matting, soaked 
 in water to prevent its cracking, and tie it suffi- 
 ciently tight to prevent the wind tearing it from 
 its position. ‘Tie the large stems in three places 
 for security. 
 
 The term Deciduous, applied to shruos, sig- 
 nifies that they shed their leaves every winter. 
 
 Herbaceows plants, signify those plants whose 
 roots are not woody, such as stocks, wallflowers, 
 &c. &e. 
 
 Fibrous-rooted plants, are those whose roots 
 shoot out small fibres, such as Polyanthuses, vio- 
 lets, &c. 
 
 Tuberous-rooted plants, signify those roots which 
 form and grew into little tubes, such as Anemones, 
 Ranunculustes, &c. 
 
eo 
 
 25 
 
 PERENNIALS. 
 
 Perennials are flowers of many years duration ; 
 and they multiply themselves most abundantly 
 by suckers, offsets, parting the roots,&c. They 
 require little trouble beyond taking cae to renew 
 the soil every year or two by a somevhat plenti- 
 ful supply from the compost heap; aid by sepa- 
 rating the offsets, and parting the rootsin autumn, 
 to strengthen the mother plant. Whenthe flowers 
 are past and the stems have decaye(, then the 
 operation may take place. Choose a showery 
 day for transplanting the roots, or give them a 
 moderate watering to fix them in their fesh places. 
 When you transplant a flower root, dig a hole 
 with your trowel sufficiently large b give the 
 fibres room to lay freely and evenly in ‘he ground. 
 
 I have, throughout my little work laid great 
 stress upon possessing a heap of compost, ready 
 to apply to roots and shrubs every spring and 
 autumn. Wherever the soil is good the flowers 
 will bloom handsomely ; and no lady vill be dis- 
 appointed of that pleasure, if a conpost heap 
 forms one essential, in a hidden comer of the 
 flower garden. If you raise your perennials from 
 seed, sow it in the last week in Mardh in a bed 
 of light earth, in the open ground. Jet the bed 
 be in a genial, warm situation, and diride it into 
 small compartments ; a compartment fir each sort 
 of seed. 
 
 Sow the seed thin,—and rake or breik the earth 
 over them finely. Let the larger sed be sown 
 
26 CARNATIONS AND PINKS. 
 
 half an inch deep, and the smaller seed a quarter 
 of an inch. Water the beds in dry weather often 
 with a watering pot, not a jug. The rose of the 
 watering pot distributes the water equally among 
 the seedlings ; whereas, water dashed upon them 
 from a jug falls in masses, and forms holes in 
 the light earth, besides prostrating the delicate 
 seedling. 
 
 About the end of May, the seedlings will be 
 fit to remove into another nursery bed, to gain 
 strength till October ; or be planted at once where 
 they are to remain. Put the plants six inches 
 apart, and water them moderately, to settle the 
 earth about their roots. 
 
 But it is rarely required to sow seed for peren- 
 nial plants,—they multiply so vigorously and quick- 
 ly of themselves, by offsets; and cuttings may be 
 made of the flower stalks in May and June in 
 profusion. 
 
 The double Scarlet lychnis, and those plants 
 which rise with firm flower stems, make excellent 
 cuttings, and grow freely when planted in moist 
 weather. Double Rockets, Lychnidea, and many 
 others, succeed well. 
 
 Carnation and pink seedlings must be taken 
 great care of. They will be ready to plant out 
 about the middle of June, and as innumerable 
 varieties spring from sowing seed, they should be 
 planted carefully in a bed by themselves six inches 
 asunder, and they will flower the following year, 
 when you can choose the colours you most ap- 
 prove. Carnations properly rank under the head 
 of biennials; but pinks are strictly perennial plants, 
 
QUALITIES OF PINKS. 27 
 
 and much has been written upon this hardy and 
 beautiful flower. It comes originally from a tem- 
 perate climate, therefore the pink loves shade: the 
 fervid sunbeams cause its flowers to languish and 
 droop. You may give them an eastern aspect. 
 
 Be careful to watch pinks when they are budding, 
 and do not allow two buds to grow side by side. 
 Pinch off the smaller bud, which would only weaken 
 its companion. Keep the plants free from decayed 
 leaves, and gently stir the earth round them occa- 
 sionally with your small trowel. This operation 
 refreshes them. Stake them neatly, that they 
 may not fall prostrate after rain. 
 
 If you wish to preserve any particular pink, let 
 it grow in a pot, or upon a raised platform, that it 
 may be placed beyond the reach of hares, rabbits, 
 or poultry, and be more easily sheltered from long 
 and severe frost or rains in winter, and from the 
 dry heats in summer, either of which destroys the 
 beauty of the flower. The pots can be sunk in 
 the ground in fine weather. Do not hide your 
 pinks among larger flowers: let them be distinctly 
 seen. If you water pinks too much, their roots 
 become rotten ; and if you suffer them to be too 
 dry, they become diseased. Beware of extremes. 
 The best rule is to keep them just moist. A fine 
 pink should not have sharp-pointed flower leaves ; 
 they should be round and even at their edges, and 
 the colours should be well defined, not running 
 one into the other. The flower should be large ; 
 it should possess a great many leaves, and form 
 a sort of dome. Piping and slipping, is the most 
 
SPRING FLOWERS. 
 
 expeditious mode of propagating plants from any 
 selected pink. 
 
 Pansies, violets, &c. are very easily propagated 
 by parting the roots when the flowers are past. 
 Pansies are very beautiful flowers; and cuttings 
 of their young shoots will grow very freely if kept 
 moist and shaded for some little time. By re- 
 freshing the soil every year, you insure large 
 flowers. Pansies and violets bloom early in the 
 spring. 
 
 Hepaticas must be parted like violets. They 
 appear so very early in the year that no garden 
 should exist without these gay and modest flowers. 
 The leaves appear after the flower has past 
 away. 
 
 The Polyanthus blooms among the early tribe. 
 In planting this flower, be careful to insert the 
 roots deep in the soil, so that the leaves may rest 
 upon it, for the roots are produced high upon the 
 stem, and those roots must be enabled to shoot 
 into the soil. The polyanthus, like almost every 
 other flower, loves a good soil, with a mixture of 
 sand. 
 
 In dividing these fibrous-rooted perennial plants, 
 take only the strong offsets, with plenty of fibres 
 attached to them. 
 
 Polyanthusas, auriculas, double daisies, double 
 camomile, London pride, violets, hepaticas, thrift, 
 primroses, gentianella, &c., succeed well, taken 
 up and divided in September, for they will all have 
 done flowering by that time. Indeed, all peren- 
 nial fibrous-rooted plants may be taken up in 
 
AND FIBROUS ROOTS. 29 
 
 October to have their roots parted, and the soil 
 refreshed round them. 
 
 Peonies, and all knob-rooted plants, should be 
 taken up in October to part their roots and trans- 
 plant them to their intended positions. 
 
 The saxifrage has very small roots, which are 
 apt to be lost in borders if not very carefully 
 looked after. Like the anemone, &c., sift the 
 earth well for them. 
 
 Dahlias require a word or two upon their cul- 
 ture. They love sand, therefore allow them plenty 
 of it, but do not put manure to their roots, which 
 throws them into luxuriant leaf and stem, to the 
 deterioration of the flower. Peat mould is good, 
 if you can obtain it, to mix with the sand, as it 
 assists the flower in developing stripes and spots. 
 Train each plant upright, upon one stem only, 
 and give it a strong stake to support its weight, 
 which soon succumbs under gusts of wind. Plant 
 them in open and airy places. When the stems 
 become black, take them up,—separate the roots, 
 and plunge them into a box of ashes, barley chaff, 
 or sand, to protect them through the winter. 
 Plant them out in May. 
 
 Dahlias grow from cuttings, which require care 
 and a hot-bed to do well, but they multiply them- 
 selves very sufficiently without that trouble. 
 
 It is a great perfection to see every tall plant 
 in a flower-garden well staked, and trimmed from 
 dead straggling shoots. Let no branches trail 
 upon the border, but, as in the case of Chrysan- 
 themums, cut away the lowest branches or shoots, 
 that each plant may stand erect and neat in its 
 
HARDY PERENNIALS. 
 
 order, without intermeddling in its neighbour's 
 concerns. There will be plenty of employment 
 all through the summer in watching the growth 
 of your plants, in cutting away decayed stems, 
 and trimming off dead leaves. Let nothing re- 
 main in the flower’s way after the brightness of 
 its bloom has past by: cut off the drooping flower 
 before it runs to seed, which only tends to weaken 
 the other flowers, and leave only the finest flower 
 to produce seed on each plant. 
 
 Perennials grow remarkably fine always in newly 
 turned-up ground, but they gradually degenerate 
 if they are allowed to remain above two years 
 without replacing the substance they have ex- 
 hausted in the soil. Add every year to that sub- 
 stance, by liberal supplies from the compost heap. 
 
 Be careful to multiply your supply of jasmines, 
 honeysuckles, &c., by cuttings in their due 
 season. 
 
 I subjoin a list of the hardier sorts of fibrous 
 rooted Perennials, eligible to adorn a garden, 
 from which my readers may stock their borders. 
 At the end of my work, however, I shall add a 
 long list of plants alphabetically arranged. 
 
 LIST OF HARDY PERENNIALS. 
 
 Aster, or Starwort Dwarf narrow - leaved 
 Large blue Alpine Starwort 
 Common Starwort, or Midsummer Starwort 
 Michaelmas Daisy Autumnal White Star- 
 Early Pyrenean wort, with broad leaves 
 Blue Italian Starwort Tripolian Starwort 
 
 Catesby’s Starwort Divaricated-branched 
 
HARDY PERENNIALS. 31 
 
 Virginian Starwort, with | 
 spiked blue flowers 
 Early blue Starwort 
 Rose Starwort 
 Latest Starwort, large blue 
 flowers 
 New England Starwort 
 Red flowering 
 Apocynum, Dogsbane 
 Red-flowering 
 Orange-coloured 
 Syrian 
 Arum, Italian large-veined 
 leaf 
 Asclepias, Swallow-wort 
 White 
 Yellow 
 Astragalus, Milk-vetch 
 Alysson, White 
 Yellow 
 Violet 
 Borage, the Eastern 
 Bachelor’s Button 
 Double red 
 Double white 
 Double ragged Robin 
 Campanula, or Bell-flower 
 Double blue 
 Double white 
 Double blue, and white 
 nettle-leaved 
 Caltha, double-flowered 
 Marigold 
 Cassia of Maryland 
 Pinks, double pheasant’s 
 eye 
 Dobson ' 
 Deptford 
 Cob white 
 Red cob 
 
 White stock 
 Damask 
 Mountain 
 Matted 
 Old man’s head 
 Painted lady 
 Clove pink, and many 
 other varieties 
 Stock July-flower, the 
 Brompton 
 Double Scarlet Bromp- 
 ton 
 Single scarlet 
 Purple 
 White Brompton 
 Queen stock 
 Purple double 
 Striped double 
 Single of each sort 
 Twickenham stock 
 Lichnidea, early blue 
 Spotted-stalked, with pur- 
 ple spikes of flowers 
 Virginia, with large um- 
 bels 
 Low trailing purple 
 Carolina, with stiff shin- 
 ing leaves, and deeper 
 purple flowers 
 Cyanus, broad-leayed 
 Narrow-leaved 
 Lychnis, or Campion 
 Single scarlet lychnis 
 Double scarlet lychnis 
 Catchfly, double flowers 
 
 | Hepaticas, single white 
 
 Single blue 
 Single red 
 
 Double red 
 Double blue 
 
Lineria, toad flax 
 Purple 
 Yellow 
 Bee Larkspur 
 Fraxinella, white 
 Red 
 Gentiania, great yellow 
 Gentianella, blue 
 Globularia, blue daisy 
 Fox-glove, red 
 White 
 Tron-coloured 
 Perennial Sun-flower 
 Double yellow, and several 
 other species. 
 Cyclamen, red. 
 White 
 Goldy Locks 
 Chelone, white 
 Red 
 
 Lily of the Valley, common | 
 
 Double-flowering 
 Solomon’s Seal, single 
 Double 
 Filapendula, or Dropwort 
 Columbines, common blue 
 Double red 
 Double white 
 Double striped 
 Starry, double and single 
 Early-flowering Canada 
 Thalictrum, feathered col- 
 umbines 
 Pulsatilla, blue 
 flower 
 Orobus, bitter vetch 
 Sawifrage, double white 
 Thick leaved 
 Purple 
 
 Pasque 
 
 HARDY PERENNIALS. 
 
 Veronica, upright blue 
 
 Dwarf blue 
 Hungarian 
 Blush 
 Golden Rod, many species 
 Valerian, red garden Vale- 
 rian 
 White garden 
 Rudbekia, American sun 
 flower 
 Dwarf Virginia, with large 
 yellow flowers 
 Dwarf Carolina, with nar- 
 rowred reflexed petals, 
 and purple florets 
 Virginia, with yellow rays 
 and red florets 
 Tall yellow, with purple 
 stalks, and heart-shap- 
 ed leaves 
 Taller, with yellow flowers 
 and large five - Ilcbed 
 leaves, and those on 
 the stalks single 
 Tallest yellow, with nar- 
 rower leaves, which are 
 all of five lobes 
 Pulmonaria, Lungwort 
 Common 
 American 
 Monarda, purple 
 Scarlet 
 Ephemeron, Spider-wort, or 
 flowers of a day 
 White 
 Blue 
 Jacea, American knapweed 
 Primrose, double yellow 
 Double scarlet 
 White 
 Polyanthus, many varieties 
 
HARDY PERENNIALS. 
 
 Auriculas, many varieties 
 Violets, double blue 
 Double white 
 Double red 
 Russian 
 Banksia 
 Violet the major 
 London-pride, or None-so- 
 pretty 
 Day-lily, red 
 Yellow 
 Fumitory, the yellow 
 White 
 Bulbous-rooted 
 American forked 
 Aconite, Monk’s-hood, or |} 
 Wolf’s-bane 
 Blue monk’s-hood 
 Yellow | 
 White | 
 Wholesome wolf’s-bane_ | 
 Winter Aconite 
 Hellebore, or Bear’s foot 
 Common black hellebore 
 Green-flowered 
 White Hellebore 
 Christmas Rose | 
 Geranium, Crane’s-hill 
 Bloody crane’s-bill 
 Blue 
 Roman 
 Bladder-cupped 
 Daisies, common double red 
 garden daisy 
 White 
 Double variegated 
 Cock’s - comb 
 white and red 
 Hen and chicken, white 
 
 | 
 
 daisies, 
 
 and red 
 
 Dahlias, many varieties 
 Peony, double red 
 Double white 
 Double purple 
 Male, with large single 
 flowers 
 Sweet smelling Portugal 
 Double rose-coloured 
 Silphium, bastard Chrysan- 
 themum 
 Iris, Fleur-de-lis, or flags 
 The German violet 
 loured 
 Variegated, or Hungarian, 
 purple and yellow 
 Chalcedonian iris 
 Greater Dalmatian iris 
 There are several other 
 varieties of Irises, all 
 very hardy and very 
 beautiful plants. 
 Cardinal Flowers, scarlet 
 Blue 
 Rocket, double white 
 Balm of Gilead, sweet-scent- 
 ed; must be sheltered 
 in winter. 
 Everlasting Pea 
 ELupatorium, several varieties 
 Eryngo, blue 
 
 co- 
 
 White 
 Mountain, purple and 
 violet 
 There are some other 
 
 varieties. 
 Snap Dragon, or Calf’s snout 
 Red 
 White 
 Variegated 
 Moth Mullein 
 D 
 
appearance. 
 
 propagated, by dividing the roots, 
 
 HARDY PERENNIALS, 
 
 Angelica Ononis, Rest-har 
 
 Asphodelus, King’s spear Large yellow-flowered 
 
 Lupins, peremnial, blue-flow- Tradescantia, or Virginia 
 ered spiderwort 
 
 offsets, which the roots produce abundantly. Take 
 the offsets and plant them out in August. 
 double white saxifrage is a beautiful flower, and 
 a blooms early in the spring. The pyramidal saxi- 
 i frage is a very handsome decorative flower, but it 
 i must be planted in little clumps to make a showy 
 
 i The Saxifrage is propagated by cuttings and 
 { 
 
 October is the busy month for transplanting 
 and removing the offsets of all perennial and 
 biennial plants. In this month every flower of 
 i summer has passed away, and the garden is free 
 | to receive all new arrangements in its future dis- 
 positions. Golden rod, Michaelmas daisies, ever- 
 lasting sun-flower, and other branching plants, 
 will require taking up every four years, to part the 
 main root into separate plants, and replace them 
 
 \ in the ground again. Peonies, lilies of the valley, 
 a | fraxinellas, monk’s-hood, flag-leaved irises, &c., 
 j must be increased or removed when required. 
 | Aa All this is most effectually done in October. 
 | } In the same month, finish all that is to be effected 
 
 } among the perennial tribe. Campanulas, 
 
 i nises, polyanthuses, violets, aconites, cyclamens, 
 i gentianella, yellow gentian, double daisies, hepa- 
 ; ticas, saxifrage, &c., must be attended to, and 
 before October 
 closes. November is the season of fogs and 
 
HARDY PERENNIALS, 35 
 
 severe frosts: if a lady is prudent, she will per- 
 form all these needful operations in Oztober, and 
 November will have no alarms for her. 
 
 All the double-flowering plants, such as double 
 sweet-william, double rockets, double scarlet 
 lychnis, &c., should be placed in shellered situa- 
 tions in October, to weather out the storms of 
 winter.. Double flowers are very handsome, and 
 deserve a little care. 
 
 - The most charming little perennial flower 
 which can adorn a lady’s garden is the scarlet 
 verbena, but it is very difficult to preseive through 
 the winter. Its beauty, however, -epays the 
 care which may be bestowed upon it. This 
 tender plant —the only really tender root which 
 I admit into my work—is not only desrable from 
 its fine, full scarlet blossoms, but it blooms from 
 April to November. The scarlet verbena loves a 
 rich, light, dry border or bed, in a sunny situa- 
 tion; they delight also in rock-work, vhere they 
 have been known to exist through the winter. 
 Plant the roots about six inches apart in the mid- 
 dle of April, and keep pegging down the shoots 
 as they throw themselves along the bec. A pro- 
 fusion of flowers and plants are produced by this 
 means. A bed or border sloping to the south is 
 the best situation for the scarlet verbena. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS— 
 PERENNIALS, 
 
 I suauyi give the bulbous and tuberous-rooted 
 flowers a chapter to themselves. They are the 
 earliest treasures of the flower-garden, and de- 
 serve especial notice. There was a period when 
 two hundred pounds was offered for a hyacinth 
 root, and even the enormous sum of six hundred 
 pounds was given for a Semper Augustus tulip, by 
 the Dutch tulip fanciers. But though a few 
 florists are still particularly nice with respect 
 to their bulbs, the time is past for paying such 
 splendid prices; and such an inexhaustible variety 
 offer themselves to our notice now, that we are 
 somewhat puzzled in making a choice collection. 
 Seed produces immense numbers yearly, and an 
 infinite variety of new colours in each species. 
 The florist is lost in admiration of the magnificent 
 blooms which meet the eye in every flower-garden 
 which is carefully attended to. 
 
 Bulbs love a mixture of garden soil and sand, 
 well mixed, and dug about two spades deep to 
 lighten it. Break the mould fine, and rake the 
 surface even. Plant the bulbs four inches deep, 
 
TRANSPLANTING BULBS. 37 
 
 and let them be six inches apart, placing the 
 bulb with care into the dibbled hole, and pressing 
 the earth gently round each. All bulbs should 
 be replanted in September, and iaken out of the 
 ground when they have done flowering. When 
 the leaves and stems decay, dig them neatly up, 
 in dry weather, with your garden fork; take 
 the offsets carefully from the main root ; spread 
 them out to dry on a mat, and put them in a 
 cool dry place to plant again in September. 
 
 The common bulbs, such as Snowdrops, Crocuses, 
 &c., may be left two or three years untouched ; 
 but at the end of that period take them up, to 
 separate the offsets and small roots from the 
 mother plants. You can replant them immedi- 
 ately, taking care to thin the clumps, and sepa- 
 rate each root six inches from its neighbour, 
 that they may rise healthy, and throw out fine 
 blooms. 
 
 Narcissuses, Jonquils, and Irises, may also re- 
 main two years untouched ; but if annually taken 
 up, they will flower finer, and for these reasons. 
 
 By taking up your bulbs as soon as their leaves 
 and stems decay, it not only allows you to sepa- 
 rate the offsets, which weaken the parent bulb, 
 but it prevents their receiving any damage from 
 long drought, or the equally destructive moisture 
 of heavy rains, which would set them growing 
 again before their time, and exhaust them. The 
 two or three months in which they are laid by 
 contributes to their strength, by allowing them 
 that period of complete rest. 
 
 The autumn-flowering bulbs, such as the Col- 
 
 SS = eis ince nog 
 
PROPAGATION OF 
 chicums, the Autumnal Crocus, the yellow Autumnal 
 Narcissus, &c., should be taken up in May or 
 early in June, when they are at rest. Transplant 
 them now, if you wish to remove them; part 
 the offsets, and plant them six inches apart. If 
 you keep them out of the ground, put them in a 
 dry, shady place, till the middle of July or Au- 
 gust, when you must plant them again, to blow 
 in the autumn. 
 
 Be careful to take up bulbs as soon as the 
 leaves decay. If they are incautiously left in 
 the ground beyond that period, they begin to 
 form the bud for the next year’s flowers; and the 
 check of a removal would injure them. They 
 might produce flowers in due time, but they 
 would be weakly. 
 
 The little offsets will not flower for a year or 
 two. They may be consigned to a nursery-bed 
 to remain for that time, in order to swell and 
 strengthen by themselves. 
 
 If you wish to procure new varieties from seed, 
 it must be sownin August. The healthiest flower- 
 stalks should be chosen, and deposited im pots or 
 boxes of fine light earth, for the convenience of re- 
 moving under shelter in wet or frost. Keep the 
 pots or boxes in the shade during the heats, but, as 
 the cold weather advances, remove them to a warm 
 sheltered spot. Litter will shelter them from the 
 frost, if you cannot command any other covering. 
 The plants will appear early the following May: 
 they must be kept very clear from weeds, and 
 be moderately watered in dry weather. ‘These 
 seedlings must be transplanted every summer to 
 
BULBOUS PLANTS. 39 
 
 be thinned, and placed farther apart from each 
 other, till they blow, when they may be removed 
 into the flower-beds. 
 
 This method is troublesome, and requires pa- 
 tience. Tulip seedlings are seven years before they 
 flower, and a lady may find her patience severely 
 tried in waiting for their blooms. Seven years is 
 a large portion of human life. If you can perse- 
 vere, however, you will be rewarded by beautiful 
 varieties of new colours and stripes. 
 
 Fine tulips should have six leaves, three on the 
 outside and three on the inside, and the former 
 should be broader than the latter. .The stripes 
 upon the tulip should also be defined and distinct, 
 not mixing with the ground tints. 
 
 Hyacinth seedlings are four years before they 
 flower: this is not so harassing a period as the 
 Tulip requires ; but every pleasure has its counter- 
 balance. If you will have fine flowers, you must 
 wait for them. These bulbs love a sunny situa- 
 ation. 
 
 The Orchis tribe prefer a moist ground and a 
 northern aspect. Columella says, that when orchis 
 bulbs are sown in autumn, they germinate and 
 bear flowers in April. 
 
 The Colchicums or narcissus are hardy bulbs, 
 and will growin any sort of ground; only, the 
 better the soil is, the finer they will flower. 
 
 The Guernsey Lily and Belladonna will not thrive 
 in the open ground, therefore it is needless to 
 speak of those very splendid flowers. 
 
 The Lily of the valley, though scarcely to be 
 classed among the lily tribe, is a beautiful flower, 
 
SALT MANURE 
 
 and as fragrant as it is lovely. They must be 
 multiplied by dividing the roots, which should be 
 parted with a knife, as they are very intricate: do 
 this in December. Plant them three inches deep in 
 the ground, and disturb them as little as you can 
 help, as they do not like to be often moved. They 
 are larger in their flowers when grown in the 
 shade, but they are sweeter in perfume in the 
 sun’s full rays. Thin broad leaves are sufficient 
 shelter to the flowers. 
 
 All bulbs love salt: be careful, therefore, to throw 
 a portion of common salt or brine upon your com- 
 post heap. My cousin, Cuthbert W. Johnson, 
 Esq., in his “‘ Observations on the Employment of 
 Salt,” quotes a passage in a letter addressed to 
 him by Mr. Thomas Hogg, the eminent florist, 
 upon the advantages of salt in the cultivation of 
 flowers. I will transcribe it here :— 
 
 “ From the few experiments that I have tried with salt 
 as a garden manure, I am fully prepared to bear testimony 
 to its usefulness. In a treatise upon flowers, published 
 about six years since, I remarked, that the application of 
 salt, and its utility as a manure, was yet imperfectly under- 
 stood. Itis a matter of uncertainty, whether it acts di- 
 rectly as a manure, or only as a kind of spice or seasoning, 
 thereby rendering the soil a more palatable food for plants. 
 
 “The idea that first suggested itself to my mind, arose 
 from contemplating the successful culture of hyacinths in 
 Holland. This root, though not indigenous to the country, 
 may be said to be completely naturalized in the neighbour- 
 hood of Haerlem, where it grows luxuriantly in a deep, 
 sandy, alluvial soil: yet one great cause of its free growth, 
 I considered, was owing to the saline atmosphere : this in- 
 duced me to mix salt in the compost; and I am satisfied 
 that no hyacinths will grow well at a distance from the 
 sea without it. I am also of opinion, that the numerous 
 
NECESSARY FOR BULBS. 4\ 
 
 bulbous tribe of Amaryllisses, especially those from the 
 Cape of Good Hope ; Ixias, Aliums, which include Onions, 
 Garlic, Shalots, &c., Anemonies, various species of the Lily, 
 Antholyza, Colchicum, Crinum, Cyclamens, Narcissus, Iris, 
 Gladiolus, Ranunculus, Scilla, and many others, should 
 either have salt or sea sand in the mould used for them. 
 “T invariably use salt as an ingredient in my compost 
 for carnations ; a plant which, like wheat, requires substan- 
 tial soil, and all the strength and heat of the summer, to 
 bring it to perfection; and I believe I might say, without 
 boasting, that few excel me in blooming that flower.” 
 
 Colchicums, the Autumnal Narcissus, Amaryllis, 
 and the Autumn Crocus, should be planted in 
 August, to blow in September and October. 
 
 Replant all the bulbous tribe by the end of 
 October, at the latest. Choose a mild, dry day to 
 put them in the ground, and let each bulb be six 
 or nine inches distant from its companion. All 
 bulbs become weak by being placed too closely 
 together, the soil becoming soon exhausted. 
 
 Bulbs of the more choice varieties are better 
 attended to if they can be placed in beds or com- 
 partments by themselves; for they are more easily 
 sheltered from frost and rain when in a body. 
 The eye, also, is more delighted by the beautiful 
 variety en masse. Their favourite soil, too, can 
 be composed and preserved for them more ex- 
 clusively, unexhausted by the roots of larger 
 plants around them. Some of the commoner 
 sorts can be planted out in patches, to add to 
 the gay appearance of the borders, among the 
 spring flowers. 
 
 Martagons, orange lilies, and bulbs, of tall 
 growth, should never be planted among the smaller 
 tribe; their large bulbs would exhaust the soil, 
 
42 
 
 and weaken the smaller flowers. 
 
 BULBOUS AND 
 
 They look very 
 
 handsome in borders and plots, placed near, or in, 
 
 their centre. 
 
 LIST OF BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED 
 FLOWERS. 
 
 Amaryllis, comprising the 
 autumnal yellow Nar- 
 cissus 
 
 Spring ditto 
 
 Crocus vernus, or spring- 
 flowering crocus 
 
 Common yellow 
 
 Large yellow 
 
 Yellow, with black stripes 
 
 White 
 
 White, with blue stripes 
 
 Blue, with white stripes 
 
 Deep blue 
 
 Light blue 
 
 White, with purple bottom 
 
 Scotch, or black and white 
 striped 
 
 Cream-coloured 
 
 Autumnal flowering Crocus, 
 of the following varie- 
 ties :— 
 
 True saffron crocus, with 
 bluish flower,and golden 
 stigma, which is the saf- 
 fron 
 
 Common autumnal crocus, 
 with deep blue flowers 
 
 With light blue flowers 
 
 Many-flowered 
 
 Snowdrop, the small spring 
 
 flowering 
 
 Common single 
 
 Double 
 Leucojum, or great summer 
 snowdrop 
 Great summer snowdrop, 
 with angular stalks: a 
 foot high, and two or 
 three flowers in each 
 sheath 
 Taller great snowdrop, 
 with many flowers 
 Ornithogalum, or Star of 
 Bethlehem 
 Great white pyramidal, 
 with narrow leaves 
 White, with broadsword- 
 shaped leaves spread- 
 ing on the ground 
 Yellow 
 Pyrenean, with whitish- 
 green flowers 
 Star of Naples, with hang- 
 ing flowers 
 Umbellated, producing its 
 flowers in umbels, or 
 spreading bunches, at 
 the top of the stalk 
 Low yellow umbellated 
 Erythronium, dens canis, or 
 dog’s tooth 
 Round-leaved, with red 
 flowers 
 Same, with white flowers 
 
TUBEROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS, 43 
 
 The same, yellow 
 
 Long narrow-leaved, with 
 purple and with white 
 flowers 
 
 Grape hyacinth 
 
 Purple 
 
 Blue 
 
 White 
 
 Musk hyacinth 
 
 White 
 
 Ash-coloured 
 
 Blue feathered hyacinth 
 
 Purple 
 
 Musky, or sweet-scented, 
 with full purple flowers 
 
 The same, with large pur- 
 ple and yellow flowers 
 
 Great African Muscaria, 
 with sulphur-coloured 
 flower 
 
 Fritillaria, chequered tulip 
 
 Early purple, variegated, 
 or chequered with white 
 
 Black, chequered with yel- 
 low spots 
 
 Yellow, chequered with 
 purple 
 
 Dark purple, with yellow 
 spots, and flowers grow- 
 ing in an umbel 
 
 Persian lily, with tall stalks, 
 and dark purple flowers 
 growing in a pyramid 
 
 Branching Persian lily 
 
 Corona Imperialis, crown im- 
 
 perial, a species of Fri- 
 tillaria 
 
 Common red 
 
 Common yellow 
 
 Yellow-striped 
 
 Sulphur-coloured 
 Large-flowering 
 Double of each variety 
 Crown uponcrown, or witin 
 two whorls of flowers 
 Triple crown upon crown, 
 or with three tiers of 
 flowers one above an- 
 other 
 Gold-striped leaved 
 Silver-striped leaved 
 Tulip, early dwarf tulip 
 Tall, or most common tulip 
 Early, yellow and red 
 striped 
 White and red striped 
 White and purple striped 
 White and rose striped 
 Tall, or late-flowerin g, with 
 white bottoms, striped 
 with brown 
 White bottoms, striped 
 with violet or black 
 brown 
 White bottoms, striped 
 with red or vermilion 
 Yellow bottoms, striped 
 with different colours, 
 called Bizarres 
 Double Tulip, yellow and red 
 White and red 
 Gladiolus, corn flag, or sword 
 lily,common, with sword 
 shaped leaves, and a 
 reddish purple flower 
 ranged on one side of 
 the stalk 
 The same, 
 flowers 
 Italian, with reddish flowers 
 
 with white 
 
ranged on both sides of 
 the stalk 
 The same, with white 
 flowers 
 Great red of Byzantium 
 Narrow grassy-leaved, and 
 a flesh-coloured flower, 
 with channelled, long, 
 narrow, four - angled 
 leaves, and ‘two bell- 
 shaped flowers on the 
 stalk 
 Great Indian 
 Anemone, wood anemone, 
 with blue flowers 
 White flowers 
 Red flowers 
 Double white 
 Garden Double Anemone, 
 with crimson flowers 
 Purple 
 Red 
 Blue 
 White 
 Red and white striped 
 Red, white, and purple 
 Rose and white 
 Blue, striped with white 
 Ranunculus, Turkey, with a 
 single stalk, and large 
 double blood-red flower 
 Yellow-flowered 
 Persian, with branching 
 stalks, and large double 
 flowers of innumerable 
 varieties, of which there 
 are,— 
 
 BULBOUS AND 
 
 beautiful,propagated by 
 offsets.) 
 Pancratium, sea daffodil 
 Common white sea Narcis- 
 sus, with many flowers 
 in a sheath, and tongue- 
 shaped leaves 
 Sclayonian, with taller 
 stems and many white 
 flowers, and  sword- 
 shaped leaves 
 Broad-leaved American, 
 with large white flowers, 
 eight or ten in a sheath 
 Mexican, with two flowers 
 Ceylon, with one flower 
 Moly (Allium), species of 
 garlic producing flowers 
 Broad-leaved yellow 
 Great broad-leaved, with 
 lily flowers 
 Broad-leaved. with white 
 flowers in large round 
 umbels 
 Smaller white umbellated 
 Purple 
 Rose-coloured 
 Fumaria bulbosa, or bulbous- 
 rooted fumitory 
 Greater purple 
 Hollow-rooted 
 American, with a forked 
 flower 
 Narcissus, or daffodil, com- 
 mon double yellow daf- 
 fodil 
 Single yellow, with the 
 
 Very double flowers 
 Semi, or half double 
 (The double are most | 
 
 middle cup as long as 
 the petals 
 White, with yellow cups 
 
TUBEROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 45 
 
 Double, with several cups, 
 one within another 
 
 Common white narcissus, 
 with single flowers 
 
 Double white narcissus 
 
 Incomparable, or great 
 nonsuch, with double 
 flowers 
 
 With single flowers 
 
 Hoop petticoat narcissus, 
 or rush-leaved daffodil, 
 with the middle cup 
 larger than the petals, 
 
 and very broad at the | 
 
 brim 
 Daffodil, with white re- 
 flexed petals, andgolden 
 cups 
 White daffodil, with pur- 
 ple cups 
 Polyanthus Narcissus, havy- 
 
 ing many small flowers : 
 on a stalk, from the ! 
 
 same sheath. Of this 
 are the following varie- 
 ties :-— 
 
 White, with white cups 
 
 Yellow, with yellow cups 
 
 White, with yellow cups 
 
 White, with orange cups 
 
 White, with sulphur-co- 
 loured cups 
 
 Yellow, with orange cups 
 
 Yellow, with sulphur-co- 
 loured cups 
 
 With several intermediate 
 varieties 
 
 Autumnal narcissus 
 
 Jonquil, common single 
 Large single 
 
 Common double 
 
 Double, with large round 
 roots 
 
 Lilium, the lily, common 
 
 white lily 
 
 With spotted or striped 
 flowers 
 
 With double flowers 
 
 With striped leaves 
 
 White lily, with hanging 
 or pendent flowers 
 
 Common orange lily, with 
 large single flowers 
 
 With double flow ars 
 
 With striped leaves 
 
 Fiery, bulb-bearing lily, 
 producing bulbs at the 
 joints of the stalks 
 
 Common narrow-leaved 
 
 Great broad-leaved 
 
 Many-flowered 
 
 Hoary 
 
 Martagon lily, sometimes 
 called Turk’s-cap, from 
 the reflexed position of 
 their flower-leaves.— 
 There are many varie- 
 ties, and which differ 
 from the other sorts of 
 lilies in having the pe- 
 tals of their flowers re- 
 flexed, or turned back- 
 ward. The varieties are, 
 
 Common red martagon, 
 with very narrow sparsed 
 leaves, or such as grow 
 without order all oyer 
 the flower-stalk 
 
 Double martagon 
 
 White 
 
46 BULBOUS AND 
 
 Double white 
 
 White spotted 
 
 Scarlet, with broad sparsed 
 leaves 
 
 Bright red,many-flowered, 
 or pompony, with short, 
 grassy, sparsed leaves 
 
 Reddish hairy martagon, 
 with leaves growing 
 in whorls round the stalk 
 
 Great yellow, with pyra- 
 midal flowers, spotted 
 
 Purple, with dark spots, 
 and broad leaves in 
 whorls round the stalk, 
 or most common Turk’s 
 cap 
 
 White spotted Turk’s cap 
 
 Canada martagon, with 
 yellowish large flowers 
 spotted, and leaves in 
 whorls 
 
 Campscatense martagon, 
 with erect bell-shaped 
 flowers 
 
 Philadelphia martagon, | 
 
 with two erect bright 
 purple flowers 
 Squills, sea onion, or lily 
 hyacinth, common lily 
 hyacinth, with a lily 
 root and blue flower 
 Peruvian, or broad-leaved 
 hyacinth of Peru, with 
 blue flowers 
 With white flowers 
 Early white starry hya- 
 cinth 
 Blue 
 Autumnal starry hyacinth 
 
 Larger starry blue hya- 
 cinth of Byzantium 
 
 Purple star-flower of Peru 
 
 Italian blue-spiked star- 
 flower 
 
 Asphodel lily, African blue, 
 
 with a tuberous root 
 
 Tuberose, or Indian tuberous 
 
 hyacinth. It produces 
 a small stem three or 
 four feet high, adorned 
 with many white flowers 
 of great fragrance. 
 
 The varieties are,— 
 Fine double tuberose 
 Single tuberose 
 Small-flowered 
 Striped-leaved 
 
 Tris bulbosa, or bulbous iris, 
 
 Persian, with three erect 
 blue petals called stand- 
 ards, and three reflexed 
 petals called falls, which 
 are variegated, called 
 Persian bulbous iris, 
 with a variegated flower 
 
 Common narrow-leaved 
 bulbous iris, with a blue 
 flower 
 
 White 
 
 Yellow 
 
 Blue, with white falls 
 
 Blue, with yellow falls 
 
 Greater broad-leaved bul- 
 bous iris, with a deep 
 blue flower 
 
 Bright purple 
 
 Deep purple 
 
 Variegated 
 
 Great, with broad and al- 
 
TUBEROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 47 
 
 most plain or flat leaves, } 
 
 with blue flowers 
 Purple 
 Of the above there are 
 many intermediate va- 
 rieties. 
 
 Hyacinth, eastern, with large 
 flowers. Of these there 
 are many varieties, and 
 of which there are in- 
 numerable intermediate 
 shades or tints of cotour. 
 
 Ofdouble sortsthere are— 
 
 Blues 
 
 Purple blues 
 
 Agatha blues 
 
 Whites 
 
 Whites, with yellow eyes 
 
 Whites, with red eyes 
 
 Whites, with violet or 
 purple eyes 
 
 Whites, with rose-co- 
 loured eyes 
 
 Whites, with scarlet eyes 
 
 Reds, 
 
 Incarnate, flesh or rose- | 
 
 colcured 
 Of single sorts there are— 
 Blues, of various shades, 
 as above 
 Whites 
 Reds 
 Rose-coloured 
 With many intermedi- 
 ate shades or varieties 
 (Musearia), or musk hya- 
 cinth 
 Ash-coloured 
 White 
 Obsolete purple 
 
 Greater yellow African 
 Grape hyacinth 
 Purple 
 Blue 
 White 
 Red 
 Monstrous flowering, or 
 blue-feathered hyacinth 
 Comosed, or tufted purple 
 hyacinth 
 Amethystine blue hyacinth 
 Nodding, spiked, red hya- 
 cinth 
 Non-seript small English 
 hyacinth, or harebells, of 
 the following varieties: 
 Common, with blue flowers 
 arranged on one side of 
 the stalk 
 White 
 Bell-shaped blue hyacinth, 
 with flowers on every 
 side of the stalk 
 Bell-shaped peach - co- 
 loured, with flowers.on 
 one side of the stalk 
 These are very hardy, pro. 
 pagating by off-sets 
 Hyacinth, with a pale pur- 
 ple flower 
 
 Colehicums in variety 
 Leontice, lion’s leaf, largest 
 
 yellow, with single foot- 
 stalks to the leaves 
 
 Smaller pale yellow, with 
 branched footstalks to 
 the leaves 
 
 | Cyclamen, sow-bread, Eu- 
 
 ropean, or common au- 
 tumn-flowering, with a 
 
purple flower, and angu- 
 lar heart-shaped leaves 
 The same, with a black 
 flower 
 The same, 
 flowers 
 Red spring-flowering, with 
 heart - shaped _ leaves, 
 marbled with white 
 Entire white, sweet-smell- 
 ing 
 Purple winter -flowering, 
 with plain or circular 
 shining green leaves 
 
 with white 
 
 BULBOUS AND 
 
 tumn-flowering 
 
 Small, or anemone -root- 
 ed, with flesh-coloured 
 flowers appearing in au- 
 tumn: these plants have 
 large, round, solid roots; 
 the flowers and: leaves 
 rise immediately from 
 the root. 
 
 Corona Regalis, or royal 
 crown; requires shelter 
 in the winter 
 
 Aconite, the winter 
 
 Sisyrinchium 
 
 Purple round-leaved au- 
 
 AURICULA, RANUNCULUS, ANEMONE. 
 
 These early and beautiful flowers deserve pecu- 
 liar notice, for no garden looks well without them, 
 and their bright tints delight the eye and mind. 
 The commonest kinds are handsome and useful in 
 small clumps, and a little care and trouble will 
 raise superb varieties. 
 
 The Auricula loves a soil composed of kitchen- 
 
 den mould, sand, and cow-dung, well mixed 
 together; they also like a cool situation. The 
 seed should be sown in September, and wher 
 sown give it a gentle watering. By sowing the 
 seed in pots or boxes, you can remove them 
 from heavy rains, &c., without trouble, and shelter 
 them in the outhouses or tool-house. The seed 
 seldom appears under six months, and it has been 
 sometimes a twelyemonth producing itself, there- 
 fore be not in despair, but remain patient: these 
 
FIBROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 49 
 
 freaks of Nature cannot be accounted for. When 
 they flower, you must single out the plants which 
 bear the finest and most choice blooms, and trans- 
 plant them into pots filled with the compost above 
 described. The common sorts may be planted in 
 the borders, to remain out and shift for them- 
 selves. By keeping the fine auriculas in pots, 
 you preserve them through the winter easily, for 
 heavy rains and cutting winds do them harm. 
 You can sink them in their pots during summer 
 in the flower-beds, but let them be sheltered dur- 
 ing the winter, if you wish to preserve the blooms 
 uninjured. 
 
 Auriculas multiply also by suckers, which grow 
 on their roots. Take off these in F ebruary, and 
 plunge them into pots of the mould they like best, 
 to root freely. They will do so in two months. 
 Auriculas should not be too much watered, as it 
 makes them look sickly, and the leaves become 
 yellow. When you pot the auriculas, sink them 
 up to their leaves in the soil, but do not press the 
 mould round the plant, as the flowers bloom finest 
 when the roots touch the sides of the flower 
 
 ot. 
 The auricula is esteemed fine that has a low 
 stem, a stalk proportioned to the flower, the eye 
 well opened, and always dry. The glossy, the 
 velvet, and the streaked auriculas are the most 
 admired. The stalk should be decked with many 
 flower-bells, to be handsome and healthy. 
 
 Take care to pull off all dead leaves round the 
 plant at all times, that it may appear neat and 
 
 E 
 
THE RANUNCULUS. 
 
 clean. Neatness is favourable to its perfect 
 growth, as well as decorating it to the eye. 
 
 The Ranunculus does not like being mixed up 
 with other flowers, and from this ‘‘ aristocratic 
 principle,” it is always planted in separate knots. 
 
 This flower loves sun and warmth. The root 
 must be planted in September, to bloom early in 
 the summer, and it delights in a rich, moist soil, 
 well dug, and raked soft and fine. When you 
 plant them in beds or pots, they must be sunk 
 two inches deep, and dibble the hole with a round, 
 not pointed, dibble. Place the roots four or five 
 inches apart, in the warmest situation in your 
 garden. By planting ranunculuses in pots, you can 
 more easily place them in warm situations, and 
 withdraw them from heavy rains. The more 
 room you give these roots the finer they will grow 
 and blow. If your plots will allow of so doing, 
 let the roots be planted six or seven inches apart. 
 The flowers will repay your care, When ranun- 
 culuses in pots have flowered, remove them from 
 the August rains, or take up the roots, to replant 
 in September. 
 
 The Ranunculus with the double white flower 
 must not be taken up until September, when it 
 should be taken up quickly, its roots parted, and 
 replanted immediately. 
 
 The Yellow Ranunculus with the rue leaf, pre- 
 fers being potted to being planted in beds. 
 
 The Ranunculus propagates by seed as well as 
 offsets. Sow the seed as you do that of the 
 auricula, 
 
 The most admired ranunculuses are the white, 
 
ANEMONES. §1 
 
 the golden yellow, the pale yellow, the citron- 
 coloured, and the brown red. The red is the 
 least esteemed. The yellow ranunculus speckled 
 with red, is handsome, —also the rose-colour 
 with white inside. 
 
 Great varieties are obtained by seed. 
 
 The Anemones love a light soil, composed of 
 kitchen-garden mould, and sand, and leaf mould, 
 well mixed, and sifted fine. It should, if possible, 
 be composed a year before it is used; the lighter 
 it is the better for anemones. 
 
 The seed should be sown in September. The 
 single flowers alone bear seed, which is fit to 
 gather when it appears ready to fly away with 
 the first gust of wind. As soon as the seed is 
 lodged, and raked smoothly into its fine, light 
 bed, strew the bed over with straw or matting, 
 and give it a good watering. In three weeks the 
 seed will begin to rise, when the straw may be 
 removed. The young plants will flower in the 
 following April. 
 
 When the roots are to be planted in September, 
 sink them about three inches deep, and six inches 
 apart, that they may come up strong and flower 
 well. Make a hole in the ground for them with 
 your finger, and set them upon the broadest side, 
 with the slit downwards. 
 
 Those anemones planted in September will 
 flower in March and April, and the roots planted 
 in May flower in autumn, but the flowers are 
 never so fine. 
 
 When anemones have done flowering, it re- 
 quires some care in taking up the roots, in order 
 
 x2 
 
52 ' BIENNIAL FLOWERS. 
 
 to part and put them by till the time for replant- 
 ing arrives. The roots or flaps are so small and 
 difficult to distinguish, that the earth should be 
 taken up and laid upon a sieve to be sifted, when 
 the flaps will alone remain behind, or the earth 
 
 be deposited upon an open newspaper or 
 cloth, and well rubbed with the hand to feel for 
 the minute dark-coloured flaps, which may easily 
 escape observation. 
 
 The beauty of this flower consists in its thick- 
 ness and roundness, especially when the great 
 leaves are a little above the thickness of the 
 tuft. 
 
 Choose your seed from the finest single ane- 
 mone, with a broad, round leaf. 
 
 - The remaining tuberous-rooted flowers are very 
 hardy. 
 
 Biennials. 
 
 Biennial flowers, as the name implies, are 
 plants that exist only two years. They are pro- 
 pagated by seed, rising the first year, and flower- 
 ing the second. If they continue another year, 
 they are. sickly and languid. The double bien- 
 nials may be continued by cuttings and slips of 
 the tops, as well as by layers and pipings, though 
 the parent flower dies—but they are not so fine. 
 A lady should have a space of ground alloted to 
 biennial seedlings, so that a fresh succession of 
 plants may be ready to supply the place of those 
 which die away. The seeds should be sown 
 every spring in light, well-dug earth ; the young 
 
LIST OF HARDY BIENNIALS, 53 
 
 plants should be kept very clean, and some inches 
 apart from each other ; and they must be finally 
 transplanted in autumn into the beds where they 
 are intended to remain, 
 
 But there is a great uncertainty as to raising 
 the double flowers ; therefore it is better to make 
 sure of those you approve by perpetuating them 
 as long as you can, by any root offsets they may 
 throw off,—by pipings, cuttings, or by layers, as 
 before noticed. I subjoin a list of the principal 
 and useful biennials. 
 
 LIST OF HARDY BIENNIALS, 
 
 Canterbury Bells 
 Blue-flowered 
 White 
 Purple 
 Pyramidal 
 Carnation. All the varieties, 
 somewhat biennial-pe- 
 rennial, 
 Clary, Purple-topped 
 Red-topped 
 Colutea, Athiopian 
 French Houeysuckle 
 Red 
 White 
 Globe Thistle 
 Hollyhocks. Somewhat di- 
 ennial - perennial; all 
 the varieties; always 
 by seed, 
 Lunaria, Moonwort or Ho- 
 nesty 
 Mallow (Tree) 
 
 Poppy, Yellow-horned (Che 
 lidonium glaucum) 
 Rocket, Dame’s violet 
 Single white 
 Double white 
 Double purple 
 Single purple 
 Rose Campion 
 Red 
 White 
 Scabius, double 
 Dark purple-flowered 
 Dark-red 
 White 
 Starry purple-fiowered 
 Starry white 
 Jagged-leaved starry 
 Stock Gilliflower 
 Brompton 
 Queen 
 Twickenham 
 Sweet-william 
 
HARDY BIENNIALS. 
 
 Red Common upright tall yel- 
 Scarlet low 
 
 Purple Small-flowered 
 
 Red, white-bordered Wallflower 
 
 Party-coloured Yellow-flowered 
 Variegated Bloody 
 
 Painted Lady White 
 
 Double of each Double of each 
 
 Mule, or Mongrel Sweet- | Night Stock 
 
 william, or Mule Pink. | Petunia 
 Tree Mallow (Lavatera ar- White 
 borea) Lilae 
 
 Tree Primrose 
 
 When you make your seedling-bed or nursery, 
 cover it over with stiaw, or fern, or matting, 
 during frost; and to prevent the birds pecking 
 up the seeds, it is requisite to protect the bed 
 by strewing light boughs of thorn bushes over 
 it, or fixing a net upon sticks as a covering, 
 till the plants appear. If cats, dogs, or poultry 
 intrude into the flower-garden, it is in vain to 
 hope for enjoyment. 
 
 Sow your biennial seeds in March, April, or 
 May. I recommend May, because the young 
 plants in that month germ and vegetate quickly, 
 surely, and without requiring defences from the 
 frost. Plant them out in October, with a ball 
 of earth to each root, where they are to remain. 
 
 The Stock Gilliflowers in particular, having 
 long, naked roots, must be planted out very 
 young, otherwise they do not succeed well. 
 
 Honesty is a very early, rich-flowering bien- 
 nial, which requires no care; they shed their 
 seed, rise, and flower without any assistance, in 
 
CARNATIONS. 55 
 
 profusion. The only trouble is to weed it out 
 of the beds, that they may not stand in the 
 way of other flowers. 
 
 Canterbury Bells are handsome flowers, and 
 will bloom a long time if you cut off the bells 
 as they decay. 
 
 The deep crimson Sweet-williams are most 
 esteemed ; though every variety looks well. 
 
 Sweet-williams may be increased by layers 
 and cuttings, which is the only sure way of 
 securing the sorts you like; for you may sow 
 seed every year, and not one in a thousand 
 will reward you by coming up double. 
 
 Carnations are the pride of a garden, and 
 deserve great care and attention. The common 
 sorts, which are planted in borders, should have 
 a good rich earth about them, and be treated 
 like the pink ; but the finer sorts should always 
 be potted, to protect and shelter the plant from 
 hares, rabbits, heavy rains, and severe frost in 
 the winter. Refresh the top of the pots with 
 new soil in June, and keep the plants free from 
 decayed leaves. Gently stir the earth round 
 each plant occasionally ; and as plants in pots 
 require more water than if placed in the ground, 
 let the carnations be gently moistened about 
 every other day during dry weather. Let the 
 watering take place in the evening; no flower 
 will endure being watered during the heat of a 
 summer’s day. Carnations love sand and salt 
 in proper proportions. The brine which is de- 
 posited upon the compost heap will answer 
 every purpose of salts, (ifit be regularly carried 
 
BIENNIALS. 
 
 out), without adding common salt: but let this 
 be particularly attended to. The cook should 
 deposit her pickle and brine to good purpose 
 upon the compost heap, instead of splashing it 
 down in front of her kitchen door. 
 
 Let each plant be well staked, and neatly tied 
 to its supporter; and do not allow two buds 
 to grow side by side upon the same stem, for 
 one will weaken the other. Pinch off the 
 smaller bud. Carnations love warmth; there- 
 fore give them a sunny aspect to blow in. The 
 seedling plants may be treated like young pinks, 
 but this difference must be observed ;— pinks 
 love shade, and carnations love warmth. A 
 bed of carnations is a beautiful object. The 
 pots can always be sunk in a border or bed in 
 fine weather. Carnations may be layered, or 
 piped, or slipped for propagation, 
 
 Water your carnations in pots once a week 
 with lime water, if they appear drooping, for 
 this proceeds from a worm at the root; but 
 the brine will destroy all insects quickly, when 
 poured upon the compost heap. 
 
 In propagating double Wall-flowers, take slips 
 of the young shoots of the head: this will per- 
 petuate the double property and colour of the 
 flower, from which they were slipped. In say- 
 ing seed for wall-flowers, choose the single 
 flowers, which have five petals or flower leaves. 
 Double flowers have no seed. 
 
 Water the slips, and keep them shady and 
 moist; they will root by September. 
 
 Plant your Hollyhocks in September or Oc- 
 
See 
 
 HOLLYHOCKS. 57 
 
 tober, where they are to remain. Hollyhocks 
 are a noble flower, and they love a strong soil. 
 Let a succession of these flower plants be at- 
 tended to in the biennial seed-bed. Keep them 
 some inches apart from each other in the seed- 
 ling bed, for they form large straggling roots. 
 The hollyhock looks well in clumps of three, at 
 a good distance apart, in large gardens or shrub- 
 beries, but they are somewhat too overgrown 
 for smaller parterres. 
 
 Be particular in gathering your seeds on a fine, 
 dry day, and put each sort in a separate brown 
 paper bag till you require them. The very finest 
 seedlings are, after all, those which spring near 
 the mother plant from self-sown seed, therefore, 
 when you weed or dig your flower borders, be 
 careful not to disturb any seedlings which may 
 have sprung up. They always make strong, fine 
 blooming plants. 
 
 Take care of your double-flowering plants in 
 winter. The double wall-flower is hardy enough 
 to exist in the borders, but the other double 
 biennials deserve to be sheltered, for double 
 flowers are very handsome, and heavy rains, 
 snow, or severe frost, injures them. Take cut- 
 ings every year from them. 
 
 The Night Stock is tolerable hardy if sheltered 
 during the frost by ashes or litter. The sweet- 
 ness after night-fall must recommend it to all 
 lovers of fragrant flowers. 
 
BIENNIALS. 
 
 PROPAGATING SIENNIALS. 
 
 Every young lady must become acquainted with 
 the manner of operating upon plants, to preserve 
 the finer sorts, which they may wish to perpe- 
 tuate. Raising from seed is slow, but it produces 
 infinite variety. You, however, rarely see the 
 same flower produced twice from seed; therefore 
 you must propagate the biennial and perennial 
 flowers by layers, slips, pipings, and cuttings, if 
 you wish to preserve any particular sorts. 
 
 To effect layers, prepare some rich, light earth, 
 a parcel of small hooked sticks, or little pegs, and 
 a sharp penknife. 
 
 Now clear the ground about the plant you are 
 going to layer; stir the surface well with your 
 trowel, and put a sufficient quantity of the pre- 
 pared mould round the plant as will raise the 
 surface to a convenient height for receiving the 
 layer. 
 
 Cut off the top of each shoot with your knife, 
 about two inches, and pull off the lower leaves ; 
 then fix upon a joint about the middle of the shoot, 
 and, placing your knife under it, slit the shoot 
 from that joint, rather more than half way up, to- 
 wards the joint above it. 
 
 Now make an opening in the earth, and lay the 
 stem, and slit or gashed shoot, into it, and peg it 
 down ; taking care to raise the head of the shoot 
 as upright as you can, that it may grow shapely ; 
 then cover it with the new mould, and press the 
 mould gently round it. Do this by each shoot 
 
LAYERS AND PIPINGS. 59 
 
 till the plant is layered—that is, till every shoot 
 is laid down. They must be watered often in dry 
 weather, but moderately, not to disturb or wash 
 away the soil round the layers. In six weeks’ 
 time, each gashed or slit shoot will have rooted, 
 and become a distinct plant. They may be taken 
 away from the old parent stem in September, and 
 dug up with a ball of earth round each root, to be 
 transplanted into the plots or borders where they 
 are to remain. 
 
 Carnations, pinks, sweet-williams, double wall- 
 flowers, &c. are the flowers most deserving of 
 layers. 
 
 Piping, which belongs almost exclusively to car- 
 nations and pinks, is a most expeditious mode of 
 raising young plants. 
 
 Take off the upper and young part of each 
 shoot, close below a joint, with a sharp knife, and 
 cut each off at the third joint, or little knob; then 
 cut the top leaves down pretty short, and take off 
 the lower and discoloured ones. When you have 
 piped in this way as many as you require, let them 
 stand a week in a tumbler of water, which greatly 
 facilitates their doing well. Indeed, I never failed 
 in any pipings, slips, or cuttings, which I allowed 
 to soak and swell in water previous to planting. 
 When you plant the pipings, let the ground be 
 nicely dug, and raked very fine; dibble no hole, 
 but gently thrust each piping half way down into 
 the soft earth, slightly pressing the earth round 
 each, to fix it inthe bed. Water them often if 
 the weather is dry, but moderately, just to keep 
 them moist; and shade them from the hot sun in 
 
60 PROPAGATING BIENNIALS. 
 
 the day. If pipings are covered with a hand- 
 glass, they root earlier, by three weeks, than those 
 which are exposed. 
 
 Laying, piping, and slipping, are done in June 
 and July. The plants will be well rooted, and fit 
 to plant out, in October. 
 
 The operation of slipping is easy. Tear the 
 top shoots of the plant to be so propagated, 
 gently from their sockets; hold the shoot between 
 your finger and thumb, as near the socket as you 
 can, and it will tear as easily and neatly as you 
 carve the wing of poultry or game. Place the 
 slips in water for a few days previous to planting 
 them, like pipings. They will root in six weeks 
 or two months, if kept shady and moist. 
 
 Cuttings must be made of shoots of the last 
 year’s growth of roses, honeysuckles, &c., and 
 planted in February. Choose the strong shoots, 
 and do not cut them less than six inches long. 
 Cut them with your knife in a slanting direction. 
 Plant them in a shady place, each cutting half 
 way in the ground, which should be cleaned, and 
 well dug and raked, to receive them. Cuttings 
 made in February will root well by October. 
 
 Cuttings of flower stalks, such as scarlet lych- 
 nis, should be done in May, June, and July. 
 Take cuttings from the youngest flower stems, and 
 plant them carefully in nice mould, like pipings. 
 These flower cuttings should be in lengths of four 
 joints each. Covering them with a hand-glass 
 raises them very quickly. They root in two 
 months. 
 
 Where hand-glasses are not to form any part of 
 
PROTECTION FOR CUTTINGS. 61 
 
 a lady’s arrangements, oil-papered frames are 
 equally useful. I have seen very economical and 
 useful frames made of bamboo, in the form of 
 hand-glasses, covered neatly with glazed white 
 cotton or linen, or horn paper, made by a lady 
 with great celerity and ingenuity; and her cut- 
 tings and pipings succeeded under them admira- 
 bly. Whatever shelters cuttings and pipings from 
 the rays of the sun effects a material purpose. 
 Linen is the best shelter in the world from heat, 
 but oiled or horn paper resists rain better. 
 
 Dr. Priestley is of opinion that salt water is 
 very efficacious for cuttings, it they are placed in 
 it for a few days previous to planting. He re- 
 marks that it is a custom with the importers of 
 exotic plants to dip cuttings in salt and water, 
 otherwise they would perish on the passage. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 ANNUALS. 
 
 Annvats, as I have observed before, are flowers 
 that rise, bloom, and die in the same year; and 
 must therefore be raised from seed every spring. 
 
 The first class of annuals, being very delicate, 
 and requiring great care, with the constant assist- 
 ance of glass frames, I shall not even name, since 
 they do not enter into the nature of my work. 
 
 I proceed to the second class, which are hardier 
 than the above, though they should be raised in a 
 warm border, and be covered with a hand-glass, if 
 you wish them to flower in good time. 
 
 The ten weeks’ Stocks will grow, if sown in a 
 warm border, towards the end of March, and 
 should be afterwards transplanted ; but if brought 
 up in a hot-bed, they will flower a month or six 
 weeks earlier. 
 
 The China-aster, Chrysanthemum, white and 
 purple Sultan, African and French Marigolds, 
 Persicarias, &c. will grow well in a warm border 
 of natural earth, if sown in April; but they also 
 flower a month earlier if they are assisted by a 
 hot-bed or glass. These annuals must be all 
 planted out when tolerably strong, into the spots 
 
oo 
 
 SOWING ANNUALS, 63 
 
 where they are destined to remain in the borders, 
 taking care to allow each plant plenty of space, 
 that they may not crowd each other. The China- 
 aster branches into many stems and flowers, there- 
 fore they may be planted singly, or not less than 
 six inches apart. The July flowers, or more com- 
 monly called gilliflowers, become expansive as they 
 increase. They should not be crowded together ; 
 three in a group are quite sufficient, and they should 
 be six inches apart. The same may be said of the 
 stock varieties, 
 
 I have ever found the hardy annuals grow finest 
 by allowing them to become self-sown. They 
 flower some weeks earlier, and invariably produce 
 larger and brighter flowers. 
 
 When gathering my flower seeds in August and 
 September, I allow one half to remain sprinkled 
 over the borders; and the young plants never fail 
 appearing healthy and strong above ground in 
 March and April, the months appropriated to sow- 
 ing the seed. Thus, my Lavateras, Larkspurs, &c. 
 are in beautiful blow, while the second crop, or 
 seeds sown in spring, are but showing their green 
 heads above the surface. I weed away the super- 
 fluous self-sown plants to my taste; but the birds 
 take care that no one shall be encumbered with 
 superfluity. I have by this means a first and 
 second crop of the same annuals, but the crop of 
 self-sown are far superior. They are up before 
 the heats come on, to dry the earth, and dwindle 
 the flower. 
 
 Dig the ground well with your trowel, and rake 
 it very fine, before you put in the seeds in spring. 
 
64 ANNUALS. 
 
 Annuals love a light, friable soil. All the hardy 
 kinds may be sown in March, each sort in little 
 separate patches, as follows :— 
 
 Draw a little earth off the top to one side, then 
 sprinkle in the seed, not too plentifully, and cover 
 it again with the drawn-off earth. Half an inch 
 is sufficient depth for small seed. The larger 
 kind, such as sweet-peas, lupins, &c. must be 
 sown an inch in depth. When the plants have 
 been up some time, thin them well. The more 
 space you have, the finer the plants will rise. 
 
 The hardy annuals will not bear transplanting : 
 they must be left to flourish where they are sown. 
 The large kinds, such as the lavatera or mallow, 
 should only be sown in groups of three plants to- 
 gether. The lupin tribe should not exceed five 
 plants in a group. The Convolvulus, also, re- 
 quires four or five plants only in a group. Water 
 the patches in dry weather moderately, and be 
 careful never to use pump water. If you have no 
 soft water, a tub should be placed in the garden 
 to receive rain water; and if, as in towns, pump 
 water must be chiefly used, let it remain a day 
 or two in the tub, to soften in the air and sun- 
 shine. 
 
 The first week in April is the safest period for 
 sowing annuals, as the cutting winds have ceased 
 by that time, and frost is not so much to be ap- 
 prehended. ‘The soft rains, also, fall in warm 
 showers, to give life and germ to seeds and plants, 
 and they appear in a shorter space of time. 
 
 Those ladies who live in the vicinity of nursery 
 gardens have a great advantage over the more re- 
 
SWEET-PEAS. 65 
 
 mote flower-fancierss They can be supplied, at a 
 trifling expense, with all the tender annuals from 
 hot-beds, either in pots, or drawn ready for imme- 
 diate transplanting. 
 
 If you do not raise your own seed, be careful 
 how you purchase your stock, and of whom you 
 receive it. Many seedsmen sell the refuse of many 
 years’ stock to their youthful customers, and pro- 
 duce great disappointment. There is one way of 
 ascertaining the goodness of the seed, which will 
 not deceive. Previous to sowing, plunge your 
 lupin, sunflower, &c. seeds ‘iter a tumbler of 
 water: the good seed will sink, while the light 
 and useless part remains floating on the surface. 
 
 If you grow your own seed, “exchange it every 
 two years with your neighbours. Seeds love 
 change of soil: they degenerate, if repeatedly 
 grown and sown upon the same spot, particularly 
 sweet-peas. 
 
 Sweet-peas should be put into the ground early 
 in March, for they will bear the wind and weather. 
 Make a circle round a pole, or some object to 
 which they may cling as they rise; and put the 
 peas an inch deep, having soaked them previously 
 in water well saturated with arsenic, to guard 
 them from the depredations of birds and mice. 
 Add an outer circle of peas every month, so that 
 a continual bloom may appear. The circle first 
 sown will ripen and pod for seed in the centre, 
 while the outer yines will continue flowering till 
 late in the autflmn. When you have gathered a 
 sufficient number of ripe pods, cut away all the 
 pods which may afterwards form with your knife. 
 
 F 
 
66 ANNUALS. 
 
 This strengthens the vines, and throws all their 
 vigour into repeated blooms. 
 
 Be very careful to throw away the arsenic water 
 upon your heap of compost, and do not put that 
 powerful poison into any thing which may be used 
 afterwards in the house. Soak the peas in a 
 flower-pot saucer which is never required for any 
 other purpose, and keep it on a shelf in the tool- 
 house, covered up. ‘Three or four hours’ soaking 
 will be sufficient. If the wind and frosts be 
 powerful and continued, shelter the peas through 
 March, by covering them with straw or matting 
 every evening. 
 
 I have got sweet-peas into very early blow by 
 bringing them up in pots in-doors, and trans- 
 planting them carefully in April, without disturb- 
 ing the roots. In doing this, push your finger 
 gently through the orifice at the bottom of the 
 flower-pot, and raise its contents ‘‘ bodily.” ‘Then 
 place the ball of earth and plants into a hole 
 trowelled out to receive it; cover it round gently, 
 and, if the weather is dry, water it moderately. 
 
 Ten-weeks’ stock is a very pretty annual, and 
 continues a long time in bloom. Mignionette is 
 the very sweetest of all perfumes, and should be 
 sown in September for early blowing, and again 
 in March for a later crop. It is always more per- 
 fumy and healthy, if dug into the ground in 
 autumn to sow itself. Venus’ Looking-glass is a 
 yery pretty, delicate flower. Indeed, every annual 
 is lovely; and the different varieties give a gay 
 and rich appearance to the flower-garden during 
 the three summer months. 
 
LIST OF ANNUALS. 67 
 
 The Clarkias are very pretty annuals, with a 
 hundred other varieties lately introduced, and 
 which are all specified in Mrs. Loudon’s new work 
 upon annuals. My plan is, to give a general idea 
 of their treatment only, under the classification of 
 hardy annuals, or those annuals which may be 
 nurtured without a hot-bed. 
 
 Keep your annuals from looking wild and dis- 
 orderly in a garden by allotting the smaller kinds 
 their separate patches of ground; and trim the 
 larger annuals from br anching among other flowers. 
 For instance, cut away the lowest branches of the 
 China-aster, the African marigold, &c., and train 
 the plant erect and neatly to a slight rod or stick ; 
 cut away the flowers as they droop, 1 reserving one 
 or two of the finest blooms only for seed ; and let 
 each plant look clean and neat in its own order. 
 By cutting away flowers as they droop, the plant 
 retains vigour enough to continue throwing out 
 fresh flowers for a long period. 
 
 SECOND, OR LESS TENDER CLASS OF ANNUALS. 
 
 African Marigold,the orange | Marvel of Peru, the red 
 
 Yellow striped 
 
 Straw-coloured Yellow-striped 
 
 Double of each Long-tubed 
 
 Double-quilled Chrysanthemum, the double 
 French Marigold, the striped white 
 
 The yellow Double yellow 
 
 Sweet-scented Double-quilled 
 China-aster, the double Sweet Sultan, the yellow 
 
 Double purple White 
 
 Double white Red 
 
 Double-striped Indian Pink, double 
 
 F2 
 
68 
 
 Single 
 Large imperial 
 Alkekengi 
 Palma Christi, the common 
 Tall red-stalked 
 Smaller green-leaved 
 Smallest 
 Tobacco, long-leaved Vir- 
 ginia 
 Broad-leaved 
 Branching perennial 
 Love Apple, with red fruit 
 With yellow fruit 
 Gourds, the round smooth 
 orange 
 Rock, or warted 
 Pear-shaped yellow 
 Pear-shaped striped 
 Stone-coloured 
 Bottle Gourd, some very 
 large, from two or three 
 to five or six feet long, 
 and of various shapes 
 Momordica Balsamina 
 Persicaria 
 Indian Corn, the tall 
 Dwarf 
 Nolana prostrata, blue 
 Convolvulus, scarlet-flowered 
 Yellow Balsam, or Touch-me- 
 not 
 Capsicum, long red-podded 
 Long yellow-podded 
 
 | 
 
 LIST OF ANNUALS. 
 
 Xed, short, thick, roundish 
 podded 
 With heart-shaped pods 
 With cherry-shaped fruit, 
 red 
 Cherry-shaped fruit, yel- 
 low 
 Basil, the common, or sweet- 
 scented 
 Bush basil 
 Zinnia, red 
 Yellow 
 Amaranthus 
 Tree .4maranthus 
 Prince’s feather amaran- 
 thus 
 Love-lies-bleeding ama- 
 ranthus 
 Cannacorus, yellow 
 Red 
 Chinese Hollyhock, the varie- 
 gated 
 Ten-week Stock Gilliflower 
 The double red 
 Double white 
 Double purple 
 White Ten-week Stock, with 
 a wallflower leaf 
 With double and single 
 flowers 
 The double of this sort 
 makes a pretty appear- 
 ance. 
 
HARDY ANNUALS. 69 
 
 The following are hardy annuals, requiring no 
 assistance of artificial heat, but should all be sown 
 in the places where it is designed they shall flower: 
 
 Adonis Flower,or Fios Adonis, 
 the red-flowering 
 The yellow 
 Candytuft, the large 
 Purple 
 White 
 Larkspur, the double rose 
 Double-branched 
 Large blue double 
 Double white 
 Lupins, the rose 
 Large blue 
 Small blue 
 Yellow 
 White 
 Scarlet 
 Marbled 
 Sunflower, the tall double 
 Double dwarf 
 Lavatera, red 
 White 
 
 Poppy, the double tall striped | 
 
 carnation 
 Dwarf-striped 
 Double corn poppy 
 Horned poppy 
 Convolvulus, major 
 Minor 
 Striped 
 White 
 Scarlet 
 Ketmia, bladder 
 Starry Scabious 
 Hawkweed, the yellow 
 Purple, or red 
 Spanish 
 
 Carthamus  tinetorius, or 
 saffron-flower 
 Nasturtium, the large 
 Small 
 Cerinthe major, or great 
 
 Honey-wort 
 Tangier Pea 
 Sweet Pea, the painted lady 
 The purple 
 White 
 Scarlet 
 Winged Pea 
 Crown Pea 
 Nigella, or devil in a bush, 
 thelong blue, or Spanish 
 The white 
 Oriental mallow, curled 
 Venetian mallow 
 Lobel's Catchfly, white and 
 red 
 Arbiscus 
 Pimpernel 
 Dwarf Lychnis 
 Venus’s Navel-wort 
 Venus’s Looking-glass 
 Virginian Stock 
 Strawberry Spinach 
 Noli me tangere, or touch- 
 me-not 
 Heart's Ease 
 Snail Plant 
 Large ditto 
 Caterpillar Plant 
 Hedgehog Plant 
 Antirrhinum, snap -dragon, 
 the annual 
 
70 
 
 Nolana, blue 
 Cyanus, or corn-bottle, the 
 red 
 White 
 Blue 
 Roman Nettle 
 Belvidere, or summer cypress 
 Garden, or common, Mari- 
 gold, the common single 
 Double orange 
 Double lemon-coloured 
 Double lemon - coloured 
 ranunculus marigold 
 Annual Cape Marigold, with 
 aviolet and white flower 
 Mignionette, or reseda, the 
 sweet-scented 
 The upright 
 
 HARDY ANNUALS. 
 
 ! Xeranthemum, or «ternal 
 flower, red anl vhite 
 Purple Clary 
 Purple Jacobea 
 Dracocephalum, th2 yarple 
 Blue 
 Capnoides, or bastard fumi- 
 tory 
 Ten-week Stock Gi liijowers, 
 in variety 
 Persicaria 
 Tobacco Plant 
 Long-leaved 
 Round-leayed 
 \ Indian Corn 
 | Amethystea 
 | Globe Thistle 
 | Clarkias 
 
71 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 ROSES AND JASMINES. 
 
 Tuer most delicious, most elegant flowers—in 
 thenselves a garden—are worthy of a chapter de- 
 votel exclusively to their culture. What cottage 
 exis's without its roses twined around the door- 
 way or blooming up its pathway? What is senti- 
 men: without its roses? What other flower illus- 
 trate the beauty and excellence of a loved one?— 
 
 “Oh! my love is like the red, red rose, 
 That sweetly blows in June.” 
 
 Evey gentle feeling, every exquisite thought, 
 every delicate allusion, is embodied in the rose, 
 It i) absurd to say the rose by any other name 
 ‘wuld smell as sweet.” Itis not so. Poetry, 
 painting, and music, have deified the rose. Call it 
 “nétle,”’ and we should cast it from our hands 
 in dsgust. 
 
 There are innumerable varieties of roses, froin 
 the :ottage rose to the fairy rose, whose buds are 
 scanely so large as the bells of the lily of the 
 valky. Mrs. Gore mentions some hundreds of 
 sort, but such a catalogue is too mighty to insert 
 in ny little work. I will name only the well- 
 
ROSES. 
 
 known hardy kinds, and refer my reader to Mrs. 
 Gore herself for the complete collection. Seed 
 yields such inexhaustible varieties, that a new list 
 will be required every ten years. 
 
 The Damask rose is very useful from its proper- 
 ties, as well as its beauty and hardihood. Rose- 
 water is distilled from this bright, thickly-blowing 
 flower. 
 
 The Cabbage rose is the most beautiful, as well 
 as the most fragrant of roses. All others are va- 
 rieties of roses, but this grand flower is the “‘ rose 
 itself.” 
 
 It throws out suckers plentifully for propagating 
 its kind; and every two or three years, the root 
 of each bush will part into separate plants. Cut 
 the roots slanting with a sharp knife as you divide 
 them. A very small bit of root is sufficient for a 
 rose-bush, as they are hardy in their nature. Do 
 not move roses oftener than you can help: they 
 delight in being stationary for years. 
 
 In pruning roses of every description, which 
 should be effected in January, shorten all the 
 shoots to nine inches only, and cut away all the 
 old wood, which becomes useless after two or 
 three years’ growth. This treatment ensures fine 
 flowers. 
 
 Roses love a good soil, as, indeed, what flower 
 does not? Fresh mould applied to them every 
 two or three years, or manure dug round them 
 annually, preserves them in constant vigour and 
 beauty. 
 
 Shoots of rose-bushes laid down and pegged 
 like layers, only without gashing, when the flowers 
 
init) 
 
 ROSES. 73 
 
 are in bloom, will root and become plants in the 
 autumn. Pinch off their buds, that they may 
 throw their strength into their roots. 
 
 Roses are often observed to change their colour, 
 which effect proceeds chiefly from bad soil. When 
 this occurs, manure the root of the bush or plant. 
 A clay soil, well dressed with ashes, is the best of 
 all soils for the hardy roses. 
 
 Moss roses love a cool soil and a cool aspect. 
 They soon fade in a hot sun. 
 
 A pyramid of climbing roses is a beautiful ob- 
 ject in a garden. Iron or wooden stakes, twelve 
 feet in height, gradually approaching each other, 
 till they mect at the top, with climbing roses 
 trained up their sides, is a pleasing and easily 
 constructed ornament. Fancy and taste may range 
 at will in inventing forms to ornament the parterre 
 with roses. Beds of roses, raised pyramidally, 
 have a splendid effect. When the flowers die 
 away in the autumn, the mass may be clipped 
 again into form, with the garden shears, as you 
 would clip a laurel hedge. 
 
 Standard roses, which are so much in fashion 
 at this time, and which always remind one of a 
 housemaid’s long broom for sweeping cobwebs, 
 are beyond a lady’s own management, as budding 
 is a troublesome business, and very frequently 
 fails. I will not, therefore, touch upon that sub- 
 ject. 
 
 The double yellow rose is very elegant. It re- 
 quires a western aspect, and even prefers north 
 and east, but a warm aspect injures its beauty. 
 It loves a good substantial soil, and will not bear 
 
74 ROSES. 
 
 much cutting or removing. Let it alone in its 
 glory, only pruning away the old scraggy wood 
 occasionally, to strengthen the plant. 
 
 The monthly rose is also a lover of the north 
 and east. It blooms through the autumn and 
 winter, has an evergreen leaf, and loves a strong 
 soi. It must be propagated by cuttings, and 
 parting the roots, as it never throws up suckers. 
 Prune away the old wood, and make cuttings in 
 June, July, and August, of the branches you clear 
 away. Plant the cuttings in loose, moist earth, 
 and do not let them bud till the following year. 
 Let the cuttings be sunk two joints in the earth, 
 leaving one only exposed. The monthly rose 
 climbs, or creeps. 
 
 The Austrian briar, or rose, will not flower if 
 exposed to the south. It bears a rich mass of 
 flowers, yellow outside, and deep red within. Give 
 it an eastern or western aspect. 
 
 The perpetual, or “ four-season”’ rose, requires 
 arich soil. The flower buds appearing in June 
 and July should be pinched off, and in winter the 
 plant may be pruned as closely as its hardier com- 
 panions. Place the four-season rose in a sheltered 
 situation from winds. 
 
 Among the hardy climbing roses, the Ayrshire 
 rose is the most useful. Its foliage is rich, and 
 it covers fences, walls, &c. with astonishing ra- 
 pidity. It flowers in July. Place it in a warm 
 
 situation, and it will extend thirty feet in one season. 
 
 Lady Banks's yellow rose is a pretty climber, and 
 flowers carly in all situations. So does the Rosa 
 sempervirens. 
 
—— 
 
 ROSES. 75 
 
 Climbing roses will grow luxuriantly under the 
 shade of trees, and form a mass of fragrant under- 
 wood in shrubberies. They grow with surprising 
 vigour if allowed to remain prostrate, Plant these 
 thinly, and lay in the most vigorous shoots, by 
 pegging them down into the ground. This pro- 
 cess increases the plants rapidly , and gives the 
 gayest possible effect. 
 
 The Rosa hybrida multiflora is a hardy and ra- 
 pidly growing rose. It flowers also from June to 
 September. So does the red and crimson Bour- 
 sault, and the Rosu Russeliana. 
 
 Roses are subject to the green fly, which dis- 
 figures their beauty, particularly the white roses. 
 An excellent remedy for this annoyance is effected 
 by moistening the plant, and then dusting it over 
 with equal portions of sulphur and tobacco dust. 
 
 Once, on a soleran festal day, 
 
 Held by the immortals in the skies, 
 Flora had summon’d all the deities, 
 That rule o’er gardens, or survey 
 The birth of greens or springing flowers, 
 And thus address’d the genial powers. 
 
 “Ye shining graces of my courtly train, 
 The cause of this assembly know: 
 In sovereign majesty I reign 
 O’er the gay: flowery universe below ; 
 Yet, my increasing glory to maintain, 
 A queen I'll choose with spotless honour fair, 
 The delegated crown to wear. 
 Let me your counsel and assistance ask, 
 T’ accomplish this momentous task.” 
 
 The deities, that stood around, 
 At first return’d a murm’ring sound ; 
 
ROSES, 
 
 Then said, “ Fair goddess, do you know 
 The factious feuds this must create ? 
 What jealous rage, and mutual hate, 
 Among the rival flowers will grow ? 
 The vilest thistle that infests the plain 
 Will think his tawdry painted pride 
 Deserves the crown, and, if denied, 
 Perhaps with traitor plots molest your reign.” 
 “ Vain are your fears,” Flora replied ; 
 “Tis fix’d, and hear how I'll the cause decide. 
 
 “Deep in a venerable wood, 
 
 Where oaks, with vocal skill indued, 
 Did wond'rous oracles of old impart, 
 Beneath a little hill’s inclining side, 
 
 A grotto’s seen, where Nature’s art 
 Is exercised in all her smiling pride. 
 
 “ Retired in this sweet grassy cell, 
 A lovely wood-nymph once did dwell: 
 She always pleased; for more than mortal fire 
 Shone in her eyes, and did her charms inspire, 
 A dryad bore the illustrious nymph, a sylvan was her sire, 
 
 “Chaste, wise, devout, she still obey’d, 
 
 With humble zeal, Heaven’s dread commands, 
 To ev’ry action ask’d our aid, 
 And oft before our altars pray’d. 
 
 Pure was her heart, and undefiled her hands. 
 
 “ She’s dead, and from her sweet remains 
 The wond’rous mixture I would take, 
 This much desired, this perfect flower to make; 
 Assist, and thus, with our transforming pains, 
 We'lldignify the garden beds,and grace ourfay’rite plains.” 
 
 Th’ applauding deities with pleasure heard, 
 And for the grateful work prepared. 
 A busy face Priapus wore ; 
 Vertumnus of the party too, 
 
 From various sweets th’ exhaling spirits drew; 
 
’ ROSES. 77 
 
 ¥ While in full canisters Pomona bore 
 Of richest fruit a plenteous store ; 
 And Vesta promised wond'rous things to do. 
 Gay Venus led a lively train 
 Of Smiles and Graces; the plump god of wine 
 From clusters did the flowing nectar strain, 
 And fill’d large goblets with his juice divine. 
 
 Thus charged, they seek the honour’d shade, 
 Where lived and died the spotless maid. 
 
 On a soft couch of turf the body lay: 
 
 Th’ approaching deities pass’d all around, 
 Prepared the sacred rites to pay 
 In silence, and with awe profound. 
 
 Flora thrice bow’d, and thus was heard to pray :— 
 
 “ Jove, mighty Jove, whom all adore, 
 Exert thy great creating power! 
 Let this fair corpse be mortal clay no more: 
 Transform it to a tree, to bear a beauteous flower.” 
 Scarce had the goddess spoke, when, see, 
 The nymph’s extended limbs the form of branches Wear, 
 Behold the wond’rous change, the fragrant tree ! 
 To leaves was turn’d her flowing hair, 
 And rich diffused perfumes regaled the wanton air. 
 
 Heavens! what new charm, what sudden light, 
 
 Improves the grot, and entertains the sight ! 
 
 A sprouting bud begins the tree t’ adorn— 
 
 The large, the sweet vermilion flower is born! 
 
 The goddess thrice on the fair infant breathed, 
 To spread it into life, and to convey 
 
 The fragrant soul, and every grace bequeathed, 
 
 To make the vegetable princess gay. 
 
 Then kiss’d it thrice; the general silence broke, 
 
 And thus in loud rejoicing accents spoke :— 
 
 ae i i i ee ee 
 
 > 
 
 “ Ye Flowers, at my command attendant here, 
 Pay homage, and your sovereign Rose revere? 
 No sorrow on your drooping leaves be seen, 
 
 Let all be proud of such a queen, 
 
78 
 
 them a good soil. 
 
 ROSES. 
 
 So fit the floral crown to wear, 
 To glorify the day, and grace the youthful year!” 
 
 Thus speaking, she the new-born fay’rite crown’d; 
 
 The transformation was complete : 
 
 The deities with songs the queen of flowers did greet. 
 Soft fiutes and tuneful harps were heard to sound, 
 While now to heaven, well pleased, the goddess flies 
 With her bright train, and reascends the skies. 
 
 The following list of roses will not prove be- 
 ond a lady’s management, being hardy, and re- 
 «+ 5 . to =) te 
 
 quiring only pruning every January, and giving 
 
 Prune the white rose-trees 
 
 very sparingly, as they do not love the knife. 
 
 Roses, early cinnamon 
 
 Double yellow 
 
 Single yellow 
 
 Red monthly 
 
 White monthly 
 
 Double white 
 
 Moss Provence 
 
 Common Provence 
 
 Double velvet 
 
 Single ditto 
 
 Dutch hundred-leaved 
 
 Blush ditto 
 
 Blush Belgic 
 
 Red ditto 
 
 Marbled 
 
 Large royal 
 
 York and Lancaster 
 
 Red damask 
 
 Blush ditto 
 
 Austrian, with flowers hay- 
 ing one side red, and 
 the other yellow 
 
 White damask 
 
 Austrian yellow 
 
 Double musk 
 
 Royal virgin 
 
 Rosa mundi, é. e. rose of 
 the world, or striped 
 red rose 
 
 Frankfort 
 
 Cluster blush 
 
 Maiden blush 
 
 Virgin, or thornless 
 
 Common red 
 
 Burnet leaved 
 
 Scotch, the dwarf 
 
 Striped Scotch 
 
 Apple-bearing 
 
 Single American 
 
 Rose of Meux 
 
 Pennsylvanian 
 
 Red cluster 
 
 Burgundy rose 
 
 Perpetual, or four-season 
 
JASMINES. 79 
 
 HARDY CLIMBING ROSES. 
 
 The Ayrshire rose Rosa sempervirens, three 
 Double ditto sorts 
 
 Rose hybrida multiflora Rose ruga 
 
 Rose Clair Red Boursault 
 
 Rosa Russeliana Crimson ditto 
 
 Reyersa elegans Lady Banks’ yellow rose 
 
 JASMINES. 
 
 Jasmines grow in very irregular forms. Perhaps 
 their luxuriant wild appearance constitutes their 
 chief grace. The jasmine is a beautiful screen in 
 summer, wreathing its festoons through trellis- 
 work ; and it appears to me that Nature presents 
 not, in our colder climes, a more fragrant and 
 beautiful bouquet than a mixture of roses and 
 jasmines. 
 
 The common jasmine is hardy, and loves a good 
 soil, by which term I mean kitchen garden soil. 
 Trench round the stem occasionally to lighten the 
 earth, and it will grow very freely. Put litter 
 round the jasmine in severe frost; and if a very 
 rigorous season destroy the branches, the root 
 will be saved, and its shoots in the spring will 
 soon replace the loss. If they shoot out with dis- 
 pleasing irregularity and confusion, take off the 
 least healthy looking branches, and cut away those 
 which grow rumpled, for they only consume the 
 juices of the plant to no purpose. The common 
 jasmine is propagated by layers and slips. 
 
 The Arabian jasmine is very fragrant, but it 
 does not endure cold, or much heat, therefore an 
 
 v 
 
80 SASMINES. 
 
 eastern aspect suits it best. If the Arabian jas- 
 mine is grown in a large pot or box, it could be 
 placed under cover during frost in the winter 
 months; but do not place it in a greenhouse, which 
 would be in the other extreme again. 
 
 The yellow jasmine may be treated like the com- 
 mon jasmine. It is not very fragrant, but it forms 
 an elegant variety. 
 
 I have seen very fanciful and beautiful devices 
 invented to display the beauty of the jasmine. 
 Their shoots grow so rapidly and luxuriantly, that 
 if the plant is allowed to luxuriate, it will soon 
 cover any frame-work with its drooping beauty. 
 The jasmine loves to hang downwards; and I have 
 admired inventive little arbours, where the plant 
 has been trained up behind them, and the branches 
 allowed to fall over their front in the nchest pro- 
 fusion, curtained back like the entrance of a tent. 
 The effect, during their time of flowering, was re- 
 markably elegant. 
 
 When you prune the jasmine, cut the branches 
 to an eye or bud, just by the place from which 
 they sprout, and that in such a manner, that the 
 head, when trimmed, should resemble the head of 
 a willow. This method makes them throw out 
 abundance of branches and fine flowers. 
 
 Give fresh soil to the jasmine every two years, 
 or they will gradually become weakened in their 
 blooms. The secret of having fine flowers is in 
 keeping up the soil to a regular degree of strength, 
 as the human frame languishes under change of 
 diet, and becomes weakened for want of food. 
 Thus it is with animate and inanimate nature. 
 
81 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS AND EVERGREENS, 
 
 I swaLu speak now of the ornamental shrubs 
 which decorate a flower garden, and which a lady 
 may superintend herself, if her own physical powers 
 are not equal to the fatigue of planting. A la- 
 bourer, or a stout active girl, may act under her 
 orders, and do all that is necessary to be done, in 
 removing or planting flowering shrubs and ever- 
 greens. 
 
 In planting flowering shrubs, be very particular 
 to plant them at such distances that each plant 
 may have plenty of room to grow, and strike out 
 their roots and branches freely. If shrubs are 
 crowded together, they become stunted in growth, 
 and lanky in form. 
 
 If you are forming a clump, or even a planta- 
 tion, let each shrub be planted six feet apart from 
 its neighbour: but if you wish to plant roses, 
 syringas, honeysuckles, lilacs, &c. in your flower 
 borders, they should be from twelve to fifteen feet 
 distant from each other, so as not to interfere with 
 the flowers growing below them. : 
 
 Do not plant tall shrubs promiscuously among 
 low-growing ones. Let the taller shrubs form the 
 
 G 
 
EVERGREEN SHRUBS, 
 
 back-grounds, that each shrub may be distinctly 
 seen. The shrubs should be trained up with single 
 stems, and they should be pruned every year, 
 taking up the suckers, and removing disorderly 
 branches. 
 
 By allowing each shrub plenty of room, it will 
 form a handsome head, and throw out vigorous 
 shoots. You will also have space to dig between 
 the shrubs, and the sun and air can benefit them. 
 
 Some of the more beautiful evergreens look ex- 
 tremely well dotted about the grounds singly or 
 in clumps, but be very particular in planting your 
 shrubs. 
 
 For instance, when you wish to transplant or 
 plant a shrub, dig a circular hole sufficiently large 
 to receive the roots of the plant, which must be 
 laid neatly down, while some person holds the 
 shrub in its proper position, straight and upright. 
 Cut away any dead or damaged roots; then break 
 the earth well with your spade, and throw it into 
 the hole, shaking the plant gently, just to let the 
 earth fall close in among the roots. When it is 
 well filled up, tread the earth gently round the 
 shrub to fix it, but do not stamp it, as I have seen 
 people do. 
 
 But if you can take up shrubs with a ball of 
 earth round their roots, they do not feel the ope- 
 ration, and their leaves do not droop. Water each 
 shrub after planting: give each of them a good 
 soaking, and let each plant have a stake to support 
 it during the winter. 
 
 October is the autumn month for transplanting 
 shrubs, and February and March are the spring 
 
EVERGREEN SHRUBS, 83 
 
 months. I always prefer the autumn transplant- 
 ing, as the rains and showers are so fructifying. 
 March is the last month for transplanting ever- 
 greens. 
 
 Laurustinus, Phillyreas, and Laurel, are excel- 
 lent shrubs to plant near buildings, or to hide a 
 wall. They are evergreen summer and winter, 
 very hardy, and quick ¢ growing. 
 
 The Pyracantha is an elegant shrub, with its 
 clusters of red berries; and it looks gay during 
 the autumn and winter. 5 
 
 The Arbutus, or strawberry tree, is loaded with 
 its strawberries in August, September, and Oc- 
 tober. This is a beautiful shrub, placed singly on 
 a lawn, kept to one single clean stem, and a fine 
 branching head. 
 
 Portugal laurels are beautiful: their deep green 
 leaves, and scented feathery flowers, make them 
 an important shrub in all gardens. 
 
 It has been ascertained by the late severe win- 
 ter, that evergreens are extremely hardy, and will 
 bear any severity of frost. All those evergreens 
 considered most tender, such as Por —— laur els, 
 rhododendrons, &c., were observed to brave the 
 frost unhurt, which were placed in high unshel- 
 tered places, or facing the east and north. It was 
 observed, also, that those evergreens were de- 
 stroyed whose aspect was south and west, and 
 which lay in warm and sheltered situations. The 
 cause was this. The shrubs did not suffer which 
 were not subject to alternations of heat and cold: 
 while those which lay in warm situations, being 
 thawed by the sun’s rays during the day, could 
 
 G 2 
 
EVERGREEN SHRUBS, 
 
 not endure the sudden chill of returning frost at 
 night. 
 
 Plant your evergreens, therefore, fearlessly in 
 exposed situations; and care only, in severe win- 
 ters, for those which are likely to be thawed and 
 frozen again twice in twenty-four hours. 
 
 Rhododendrons are very beautiful shrubs, and 
 grow into trees, if the soil agrees with them. 
 They love a bog soil. 
 
 The Camellia japonica is considered a green- 
 house plant, but it becomes hardy, like the laurel, 
 if care is taken to shelter it for a few winters, 
 when it gradually adapts itself to the climate. 
 This is troublesome, perhaps, as most things are, 
 to indolent people; but the trouble is well repaid 
 by the beautiful flowers of the japonicas, its dark 
 leaves, and delicate scent, 
 
 The gum Cistus is a handsome evergreen, and 
 looks well anywhere and everywhere. Some straw 
 litter spread round their roots in winter is a great 
 protection. 
 
 All evergreens of a hard-wooded nature are pro- 
 pagated rapidly by layers in June or July. This 
 is the method :—Dig round the tree or shrub, and 
 bend down the pliable branches; lay them into 
 the earth, and secure them there with hooked or 
 forked sticks. Lay down all the young shoots on 
 each branch, and cover them with earth about five 
 inches deep, leaving the tops out about two, three, 
 or four inches above ground, according to their 
 different lengths. If these branches are laid in 
 June or July, they will root by Michaelmas; but 
 if they are laid in October, they will be a twelve- 
 month rooting. 
 
EVERGREEN SHRUBS. 85 
 
 The layers of Alaternuses and Phillyreas will 
 sometimes be two years rooting, if done so late 
 as October; therefore lay down your shoots, if 
 possible, in June. Let the shoots which are layered 
 be those of the last summer’s growth. 
 
 You may propagate shrubs also from cuttings 
 in February and October. Let strong shoots be 
 chosen, of last summer’s growth: choose them 
 from nine to fifteen inches long, and, if you can, 
 take about two inches of old wood with the shoots 
 at their base. Trim off the lower leaves, place 
 the cuttings half way in the ground, and plant 
 them in a shady border to root. Do this in Febru- 
 ary, in preference to October, as everything roots 
 earlier from spring operations. You may also 
 plant cuttings in June, but keep them moist and 
 shady. 
 
 October is a good month for taking up suckers 
 of lilacs, roses, &c., and for all sorts of transplant- 
 ing in its varieties. It is also the month to trans- 
 plant the layers of such shrubs as were laid in the 
 previous October. 
 
 I subjoin a list of hardy deciduous shrubs and 
 evergreens, not too tall to admit into a moderately 
 sized flower garden. 
 
 DECIDUOUS SHRUBS OF LESSER GROWTH. 
 
 Arbutus, Strawberry tree White-flowering 
 Common Early dwarf, single flower 
 Double-flowering Double dwarf 
 Red-flowering Althea frutex, striped 
 Eastern, or Andrachne Red 
 
 Almond, common White 
 
Blue 
 Purple 
 Pheasant’s eye 
 Andromeda, striped 
 Evergreen 
 Azalea, with red flowers 
 White 
 Berberry, common, red. fruit 
 Stoneless, red fruit 
 White fruit 
 Bladder-nut, three-leaved 
 Five-leaved 
 Broom, the Spanish 
 Double-flowering 
 Yellow Portugal 
 White Portugal 
 Lueca 
 Bramble, double-flowering 
 American upright 
 White-fruited 
 Dwarf 
 Thornless 
 Chionanthus,Fringe,or Snow- 
 drop tree 
 Candleberry Myrtle, broad- 
 leaved 
 Long-leaved 
 Fern-leaved 
 Oak-leaved 
 Cherry, double-blossomed 
 Cornelian 
 Dwarf Canada 
 Currant,with gold andsilver- 
 blotched leaves 
 With gooseberry leaves 
 Pennsylvanian 
 Dogwood, the common 
 Virginia 
 Great-flowering 
 Newfoundland 
 
 EVERGREEN SHRUBS. 
 
 | Empetrum, 
 
 black - berried 
 
 heath 
 Guelder Rose, common 
 Double, or snowball 
 Carolina 
 Gold-blotched leaf 
 Currant-leaved 
 Hydrangea, white-flowering 
 Honeysuckle, early red Italian 
 Early white Dutch 
 Late Dutch 
 Late red 
 Long-blowing 
 Large scarlet trumpet 
 Small trumpet 
 Oak-leaved 
 Early white Italian 
 Early red Italian 
 Ivy, deciduous, or Virginian 
 creeper 
 Jasmine, the common white 
 Common yellow Italian 
 Gold-striped leaved 
 Silver-striped leaved 
 Lilac, blue 
 White 
 Purple, or Scotch 
 Persian, with cut leaves 
 Persian, white-flowered 
 Persian blue-flowered 
 Lonicera, upright Honey- 
 suckle 
 Red-berried 
 Blue-berried 
 Virginian 
 Tartarian 
 Mezereon, white 
 Tarly red 
 Late red 
 Purple 
 
D 
 
 hVERGRLEN SHRUBS. 87 
 
 Mespilus, spring-flowering 
 Lady Hardwick’s shrub 
 Peach, double-flowering 
 Privet, common 
 Silver-striped 
 Yellow-blotched leaves 
 Ptelea, or American Shrub 
 
 Trefoil 
 Pomegranate, single-flower- 
 ing 
 Double 
 
 Robinia, or false Acacia 
 Common 
 Yellow-flowered 
 Scarlet-flowered, or rose 
 acacia 
 Caragana 
 Rhamnus, or Buckthorn 
 Common 
 Sea buckthorn 
 Yellow-berried 
 Creeping evergreen 
 Raspberry, double-flowering 
 Virginian sweet-flowering 
 
 Rose, in every variety 
 Spirea frutex, common red 
 Scarlet 
 White 
 Sumach, scarlet 
 Large downy 
 White 
 Virginia 
 Elm-leaved 
 Myrtle-leaved 
 Carolina 
 Syringa, common 
 Dwarf double-flowering 
 Scorpion Senna 
 Smilax, broad-leaved 
 Blotched-leaved 
 Tulip Tree 
 Tamarisk, the French 
 German 
 Viburnum, or Wayfarer 
 Common 
 Stripe-leaved 
 American broad-leayed 
 Maple-leaved 
 
 EVERGREENS. 
 
 Alaternus, common 
 Blotched-leaved 
 Jagged-leaved, plain 
 Ditto, striped 
 Silver-striped 
 Gold-striped 
 
 Cistus, or Rock Rose 
 Gum Cistus, with spotted 
 
 flowers 
 With plain white flowers 
 Purple sage-leaved 
 Male Portugal 
 
 Bay-leaved gum 
 With hairy willow leaves 
 Black poplar-leaved 
 Waved-leaved 
 Purple, or true Gum Cistus 
 of Crete, with other va- 
 rieties 
 Cytisus, Neapolitan 
 Canary 
 Siberian and Tartarian 
 Laurustinus, common 
 Broad, or shining-leaved 
 
Rough-leaved 
 Oval-leaved 
 Bay, broad-leaved 
 Narrow-leaved 
 Phiilyrea, the true 
 Broad-leaved 
 Privet-leaved 
 Prickly-leaved 
 Olive-leaved 
 Gold-edged 
 Silver-edged 
 Rosemary-edged 
 Juniper, common 
 Swedish 
 Sclavonian 
 Canada 
 Jasmine, evergreen 
 Pyvracantha 
 /vy, common 
 Striped-leaved 
 Virginian 
 Irish, or quick-growing 
 Honeysuckle, evergreen 
 Rose, the evergreen 
 Rhododendron, dwarf Rose 
 Kalmia, olive-leaved [Bay 
 Broad-leaved 
 Thyme-leaved 
 Coronilla, narrow-leaved 
 Broad-leaved 
 Magnolia, laurel-leaved 
 
 EVERGREEN SHRUBS. 
 
 Lesser bay-leaved 
 Arbor Vite, common 
 China 
 American 
 Cypress, common upright 
 Male spreading 
 Bignonia, the evergreen 
 Widow Wail 
 Locust of Montpelier 
 Medicago, Moon Trefoil 
 Stonecrop Shrub 
 Ragwort, the sea 
 Holly, common 
 Carolina broad-leaved 
 Yellow-berried 
 Many varieties 
 Laurels, common 
 Portugal 
 Alexandrian 
 Oak, llex, or evergreen 
 Kermes, or searlet-bearing 
 Gramuntian, holly-leayed 
 Carolina live 
 Germander, shrubby, of Crete 
 Euonymus, evergreen Vir- 
 ginia 
 Virginia Groundsel tree 
 Wormwood, lavender-leaved 
 Spurge, or wood laurel 
 Kneeholm,or Butcher's broom 
 Horse-tail, shrubby 
 
 In pruning shrubs, be careful to cut out the 
 long rambling shoots of the last summer’s growth, 
 which disfigures their appearance. Cut away, also, 
 branches of shrubs which interlace each other, that 
 every shrub may stand clear and well-defined. 
 Take away their suckers, and let each shrub be 
 
 kept to a single stem, as I have before observed. 
 
89 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 MONTHLY NOTICES, 
 
 A rEcAPITULATION of the work which each month 
 presents to the gardener’s notice will be useful. 
 By occasionally glancing over the Monthly Notices, 
 the memory is refreshed; and it will be found that 
 even the three winter months allow the young gar- 
 dener no remission from labour. There is some- 
 thing to be done in every week of the year,— 
 something to be attended to, which amuses the 
 mind, interests the imagination, and benefits the 
 general tone of mental and physical health. 
 
 JANUARY. 
 
 Let your lawn and grass walks be kept neat and smooth, 
 by rolling, this month; and if any part of the grounds re- 
 quire fresh turf, this is the season for cutting and laying it 
 down. If you live in the neighbourhood of a common, 
 that is the best ground for cutting turf, as the herbage is 
 short, and free from nettles, docks, &c. Lay it down firm 
 and even, allowing for the sinking of the newly laid earth, 
 about an inch or two. Roll it well, after having laid down 
 the turf. 
 
 Keep the gravel walks also from weeds and moss, and 
 roll them in dry weather. If you attempt to roll gravel in 
 wet weather, the gravel clings to the roller. 
 
 Dig the clumps or spots where you mean to plant ever- 
 greens, in February and March, that the ground may be 
 trenched in readiness. The frost of this month will render 
 newly-dug earth more friable, and the snow will enrich it. 
 
90 MONTHLY NOTICES. 
 
 If the weather is very settled and mild, you may still 
 plant out hardy deciduous shrubs, such as sweetbriars, 
 double bramble, double-blossomed cherry, dwarf almond, 
 jasmines, honeysuckles, roses, lilaes, laburnums, guelder rose, 
 Spirea frutex, mezereons, &c. Transplant each shrub with 
 a good ball of earth round its roots. 
 
 Prune flowering shrubs now, where they require it, with 
 a sharp knife, not with shears. When I say “ flowering 
 shrubs,” I do not mean shrubs in flower, but shrubs that do 
 flower. 
 
 Transplant suckers from the hardy flowering shrubs, if 
 they have not been done before. Take them up with good 
 roots, and support them neatly with stakes. 
 
 Cuttings of young shoots ef hardy deciduous shrubs may 
 be planted in mild weather, to root, and form good plants 
 in the autumn. Layers may be also formed. 
 
 Protect all the choicer kinds of flowering shrubs, and all 
 cuttings of every kind, from severe frosts, by spreading 
 litter over them. 
 
 Plant tulips now—always providing tae weather is mild— 
 to blow late in the year; but they will not be so handsome 
 as those which were planted again in September and Oc- 
 tober. 
 
 Plant any ranunculuses, anemones, &c., you may have 
 out of the ground, to come in late blowing; but, like the 
 tulips, they will not bear such fine blooms. Protect every- 
 thing from severe weather, as well as you can, this month, 
 particularly your choicer sorts of bulbs, and tuberous-rooted 
 perenuials. 
 
 FEBRUARY. 
 
 February is the first spring month, and the parterre will 
 begin to make gradual approaches to gaiety and life. The 
 anemones, hepaticas, &c. will now bud and flower, if the 
 weather is genial; and the crocus and snowdrop will put 
 forth their blooms to meet the sun on his returning march. 
 
 About the end of this month, you may begin to sow the 
 hardy annuals. I prefer April, but it may not be convenient 
 always to wait so long: therefore sow now the seeds of 
 hawkweed, lavatera, Venus’s looking-glass, Venus’s navel- 
 
MONTHLY NOTIC 
 
 91 
 
 wort, candytuft, larkspurs, lupines, convolvulus, flos Adonis, 
 dwarf lychnis, nigella, annual sunflowers, &c. 
 
 This month, you may plant and transplant, fearlessly, all 
 hardy, fibrous-rooted, flowering perennials and biennials, 
 such as saxifrage, gentianella, hepaticas, violets, primroses 
 of all sorts, polyanthuses, double daisies, thrift, &c.; rose 
 campions, rockets, campanulas, sweet-williams, hollyhocks, 
 scarlet lychnis, carnations, pinks, monk’s-hood, perennial 
 asters and sunflowers, &c. 
 
 Plant cuttings of roses, honeysuckles, and jasmines. 
 
 If the weather is mild, you may transplant many kinds 
 of evergreen shrubs, such as phillyreas, alaternuses, laurels, 
 laurustinus, pyracanthas, cistuses, &c. Let there be a ball 
 of earth round their roots, when you take them out of the 
 ground. 
 
 If box edging is required, plant it now: water it, and the 
 plants will soon root. 
 
 Dig the borders, carefully and lightly, with your garden 
 fork; make the garden look neat, and free from weeds; 
 clear away dead leaves; sweep the lawn and walks; and 
 let spring advance in its proper order. 
 
 MARCH. 
 
 Now plant away. LEvergreens cannot be moved at a 
 better period. Deciduous flowering shrubs may also be 
 still planted, such as Althea frutex, syringas, roses, honey- 
 suckles, mezereons, sumach, laburnums, lilacs, jasmines, 
 candleberry myrtles, guelder roses, &c. 
 
 Where the borders require filling up, the following plants 
 may still be moved, but do it early in this month :— 
 
 Lychnises, campanulas, Canterbury bells, tree primroses, 
 rockets, sweet-williams, wallflow columbines, m_ nk’s- 
 hood, rose campions, perennial asters and sunflowers, fox- 
 gloves, &c. 
 
 Sow perennial and biennial flower seeds about the last 
 week in this month. Stake your hyacinths, when the flower 
 stems are tall. : 
 
 Plant out layered carnations of last year, into the places 
 where they ought to remain. 
 
92 MONTHLY NOTICES. 
 
 Give fresh earth to any plants in pots, such as carnations, 
 pinks, auriculas, double sweetwilliams, double stock gilly- 
 flowers, rockets, &c. 
 
 Sow annuals of all hardy kinds. 
 
 Transplant any hardy roses, which you may wish should 
 blow late in the year. 
 
 Plant box, for edgings, still; and roll the lawn and grass 
 walks. 
 
 Transplant any tenderer kinds of annuals which you may 
 have been at the pains of raising in, or procuring from, a 
 hot-bed. 
 
 Keep the garden quite free from weeds and dead leayes. 
 
 APRIL. 
 
 Now place sticks to every plant or stalk requiring sup- 
 port. Fix the sticks, or light iron rods, irmly in the ground; 
 and tie the stems to each stick neatly, in two or three 
 places. 
 
 Some evergreens may yet be removed, as laurels, laurus- 
 tinus, Portugal laurel, cistuses, arbutus, magnolias, pyra- 
 canthas, &c. 
 
 Propagate auriculas, by slipping off tieir suckers and off- 
 sets, this month. 
 
 Sow carnation and polyanthus seels still. Sow, also, 
 perennial and biennial seeds. 
 
 Where any perennial or biennial fibrons-rooted flowers 
 are wanted, transplant them only in the first week of this 
 mionth, and they must have each a good ball of earth 
 attached to them; but this work shoud be completed in 
 February, or March at farthest. 
 
 Every sort of annual may now be sown. 
 
 Take care of your hyacinths, tulips, ranunculuses, and 
 anemones now, for they will be hastening into bloom. 
 
 Place your auriculas, hyacinths, &c., which may be in 
 pots, in a sheltered place, during hesvy rains or winds; 
 and shelter those flowers which are in the borders as well 
 as youcan. Trim them from dead leaves. 
 
 Keep your lawn and grass walks nicely mown and rolled, 
 and your borders free from weeds and rubbish. 
 
MONTHLY NOTICES. 93 
 
 MAY. 
 
 Propagate perennial fibrous-rooted plants by cuttings. 
 
 Propagate double wall-flowers by slips of the young 
 shoots of the head. 
 
 Sow annuals for succession; such as sweet-peas, nas- 
 turtiums, lavatera, lupines, flos Adonis, &c. 
 
 Take up those hyacinths, tulips, &c. which have done 
 flowering, and dry them in the shade to put away. 
 
 Weeds grow quickly now: hoe them up wherever you 
 see them. Support all flowers with sticks; train them 
 upright. Clear away all the dead leaves from your carna- 
 tions, and gently stir the earth round them with your 
 smallest trowel. 
 
 Look round the borders now, and take off irregular 
 shoots. 
 
 JUNE. 
 
 Propagate carnations by layers and pipings. Propagate 
 double sweet-williams and pinks by layers and cuttings, or 
 slips. 
 
 Propagate perennial fibrous-rooted plants by cuttings of 
 the stalks. 
 
 Transplant the large annuals from the seedling bed to 
 the places where they are to remain. Let this be done in 
 showery weather, if possible. 
 
 Take up all bulbs, ranunculus, and anemone roots, &e., 
 as the flowers and leaves decay. 
 
 Water the delicate plants if the weather proves dry: 
 give a moderate watering every evening; but never in the 
 heat of the day. 
 
 Sow yet some hardy annuals, such as ten-week stocks, 
 virgin stock, &e. 
 
 Plant out China-asters, Chinese hollyhocks, ten-week 
 stocks, large convolvolus, &c., but let each root have a ball 
 of earth round it. 
 
 Examine the perennial and biennial plants, to cut off all 
 dead, broken, or decaying shoots. Trim the African and 
 French marigolds from their lower straggling shoots, that 
 
94 MONTHLY NOTICES. 
 
 they may present a neat, upright appearance. Trim the 
 chrysanthemums, which are apt to branch too near the 
 root, and stake them neatly. 
 
 Plant out carnations and pink seedlings into their proper 
 places. 
 
 Keep every thing just moderately moist, if there is a long 
 drought in this month. 
 
 JULY. 
 
 You may lay carnations and double sweet-williams still ; 
 but let it be done before the end of the second week in this 
 month, 
 
 Propagate pinks by slips and pipings. 
 
 Transplant the seedling auriculas which were sown 
 last year, as also the seedling polyanthus. 
 
 Transplant the perennial and biennial seedlings which 
 were not done last month, to remain till October, 
 
 Take up all bulbs as fast as they decay their leaves. If 
 this month prove hot and dry, place your potted carna- 
 tions in a sheltered situation, and keep them just moist. 
 
 Support flowering shrubs and plants, and cut away 
 decayed stems. Keep the borders clean. Mow the lawn 
 and grass walks. Plant autumnal bulbs. 
 
 AUGUST, 
 
 You may now begin to propagate some double-flowered 
 and approved fibrous-rooted plants the end of the month, 
 if they have done flowering, such, for instance, as the 
 double rose campion, catchfly, double scarlet lychnis, double 
 rocket, double ragged robin, bachelor’s buttons, gentia- 
 nella, polyanthuses, auriculas, &c. 
 
 Sow auricula and polyanthus seed on a warm, dry day ; 
 and remove carnation layers to some place where they may 
 remain till October to gain strength. 
 
 Sow seeds of bulbs. 
 
 Sow anemone and ranunculus seed. 
 
 Remove all bulbs which have done flowering. 
 
 Cut and trim edgings of box. Clip holly, yew, and 
 privet hedges. 
 
Ya = 
 
 MONTHLY NOTICES. 95 
 
 Gather flower seeds. 
 
 Plant autumnal bulbs, if any are still above ground, such 
 as colchicums, autumnal nares amaryllis, and autumn 
 crocus. 
 
 Trim the flower plants; mow the lawn and grass walks, 
 and keep every department in neat order. 
 
 SEPTEMBER. 
 
 Transplant, in any moist or showery weather this month, 
 the perennial and biennial seedlings to their proper situa- 
 tions, with a ball of earth round their roots. 
 
 Propagate fibrous-rooted plants. 
 
 Prepare the spots where you mean to deposite anemone 
 and ranunculus roots any time between the end of this 
 month and the end of October; and dig all beds and bor- 
 ders which are vacant, to prepare them also for receiving 
 roots and plants next month. 
 
 Transplant peonies, flag. irises, monk’s-hood, fraxinella, 
 and such like plants, to part their roots and remove each 
 root to its destined position. 
 
 Transplant evergreens. 
 
 Plant cuttings of honeysuckles, and other shrubs. 
 
 Plant hyacinth and tulip roots for early spring bloom. 
 
 Plant box by slips or roots. 
 
 Mow grass lawn and walks. Clear away flower stems, 
 and trim flowering plants. 
 
 Sow seeds of bulbous flowers, if not done last month. 
 
 OCTOBER. 
 
 This is a very busy month; for the garden should now 
 be cleared and arranged for the season. 
 
 Transplant all sorts of fibrous-rooted perennial and bien- 
 nial plants now where they are intended to remain. 
 
 Put the bulbs into the ground again; and transplant 
 the different layered plants into their respective places. 
 
 Prune flowering shrubs of all sorts. Plant and trans- 
 plant all hardy deciduous shrubs, and their suckers. 
 
 Dig up and part the roots of all flowers which require 
 so doing, and replant them. 
 
7 il 
 
 96 MONTHLY NOTICES. 
 Plant cuttings of honeysuckles, laurels, &e. 
 Take up the roots of dahlias, and put them carefully 
 away till May. 
 Trim evergreens. 
 Plant box edgings; cut away the long, sticky roots, and 
 trim the tops even. 
 Mow grass walks and lawns, and weed gravel walks. 
 
 NOVEMBER. 
 
 Prepare compost for a new year by raking dead leaves, 
 soil, sand, &c. in a heap. to turn well over occasionally. 
 Pour the brine, soap-suds, &c. from the house over it. 
 
 Transplant still all hardy kinds of flowering shrubs, 
 suckers, &c. 
 
 Clear the borders from dead annuals, leaves, stumps, 
 -&¢e.; shelter the choice bulbs and double-flowering plants. 
 
 DECEMBER. 
 
 Take care of every thing. Protect the more delicate 
 roots from severe frost, by strewing ashes, sand, or litter 
 over them. Prune shrubs, and dig between them. 
 
 If the weather is open, you may still plant hardy sorts 
 of flowering shrubs. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 Lonpon: W.L. Graves & Co., Printers, Holborn HUL 
 
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