r PREFACE. */f_S the information, contained in this little Volume, is not carelessly copied from any similar work, but is really the fruit of twelve Years of valuable Experience, as Housekeeper in very re¬ spectable families, and Twenty Years of diligent practice, as a Confectioner and Instructor of Young Persons in this necessary domestic know¬ ledge, in Sheffield;—the Author humbly hopes, by the accomplishment of her Work, to deserve that Patronage, which has enabled her to lay it before the Public, and which she gratefully ac- knowledges . She has nothing at all to say in disparage¬ ment of the labours of others, and lithe to advance V. PREFACE. ♦ ‘r in praise of her own; except, that she can con¬ scientiously recommend the following Treatise to her Friends and the Public as a Collection of Family Receipts— which will be found useful and agreeable, (economical and elegant. THE FAMILY FRIEJYD, <$'C. Ox Liver. Take an Ox liver and cut it in two, lay it on a large board aslant, then throw on two or three handsful of salt; when it has done running, to fetch out the blood, rub it very well with salt¬ petre and common salt; turn it every day and rub it with salt, until it becomes sad, then take it and hang it up until dry. This is very useful in little families, or in large families ; a small bit of it, and a few bones, make a very good gravy in a little time. To malie Almond Soup. Take a large knuckle of veal, cut it in pieces and boil it with five quarts of water until it is re¬ duced to two, with a blade or two of mace, and 6 THE FAMILY FRIEND. a few pepper corns, six ounces of Jordan almonds blanched and beat fine, a little cayenne pepper and salt, to your iaste ; have ready two French rolls, the size of a small tea cup, if larger they will not look well ; then take a few almonds cut length-way, stick them into the rolls both side and top ; boil the almonds but not the rolls, with the soup ; then put it through a hair-sieve, and the rolls in the tureen ; take two yolks of eggs, and a spoonful of flour beat together, and half a pint of thick cream, but it must not boil after the cream is in ; pour your soup upon your rolls in the tu¬ reen. To make Onion Soup. Boil ten or twelve large Spanish onions, in milk and water, change it three times; when they are quite soft, rub them through a hair sieve; cut an old fowl in pieces, and boil it for gravy w'ith a blade or tw’o of mace, strain it, and pour it upon the pulp of the onions ; boil it gently with the crumb of an old penny loaf gratered into half a pint of cream, add cayenne pepper, and salt to your taste, and a few heads ol asparagus, which makes it eat well and look very pretty. To make rich Vermicelli Soup. Take a knuckle of veal, a scrag of mutton, and a shank of ham cut in pieces, three blades of THE FAMILY FRIEND. 7 mace, two carrots, two large onions ; stick four cloves in the onions, four or five heads of celery, a small bunch of sweet herbs cut fine, and mixt with the meat: put four ounces of butter in the bot¬ tom of the pan, and the meat in the top, and a couple of anchovies; cover it close, and put it over a slow fire, without any water, till the gravy is drained out of the meat; pour your gravy out into a bason, let your meat brown a little, but not to let it burn ; then pour into it four quarts of water, let it boil gently till it is reduced to three pints, then strain it, put the other gravy to it, and set it on the fire; add to it, two ounces of vermicelli; cut the nicest part of two heads of celery, aud cayenne pepper, and salt to your taste ; if not good coloured, put to it a little browning ; lay a small French roll in the soup dish, and pour the soup upon it and lay some of the vermicelli over it. To make green Pease Soup. Shell a peck of pease, and boil them in spring water till they are soft, then work them through a hair sieve ; take the thin part of the water and add some more to it; then put in a knuckle of veal, a slice of ham, one carrot and a few beet leaves; boil them two hours and clear it off ; strain the gravy, and mix the pulp to it; then add to it a little spinage juice to make it a pretty colou^ 8 THE FAMILY FRIEND. then give it a gentle boil, which will take off the taste of the spinage; slice in the whitest part of a head of celery and put in a lump of sugar the size of a walnut; take a slice of bread, cut it in little square pieces, and cut a little bacon the same way, fry them a light brown in fresh butter, cut a large cabbage lettuce in slices, fry it after the other, put it in the tureen with the fried bread and bacon:— ha\e ready boil d as for eating, a pint of young pease, and put them in the soup, with a little chopped mint if you like it, and pour it into your tureen. Gravy Soup. Put a shank of beef, and a shank of ham to six quarts of water, and six onions ; set them over a slow fire, and let them boil gently, add to it a lit¬ tle Ox liver; when boiled enough, strain it through a hair sieve, then put in a little celery, and some beet leaves ; cut a little fried toast in dices, and serve it up. To make a transparent Soup. Take a leg of veal, and cut off the meat as thin as you can, when you have cut off all the meat clean from the bone, break the bone in small pieces; put the meat in a large jug, and the bones THE FAMILY FRIEND. 9 at top, with a bunch of sweet herbs, a quarter of an ounce of mace, half a pound of Jordan almonds blanched and beat fine ; pour on it four quarts of boiling water, and let it stand all night by the fire, covered close ; the next day put it into a well tin¬ ned saucepan, and let it boil slowly till it is reduc¬ ed to two quarts; be sure you take the scum and fat off as it rises, all the time it is boiling ; strain it into a punch bowl, let it settle for two hours, pour it into a saucepan clear from the sediment, if any at the bottom ; when you serve it up, you must have a fresh roll in your tureen. To make a Hare Soup. Cut a large old hare in small pieces, with two onions, three anchovies, half a pint of red wine, and two quarts of water; send it in a jug to the oven: you may scald the liver of the hare, with hot water ; when the liver is scalded, pound it with the back of a wooden spoon ; work a little butter in flour, and stir it over the tire; put in crisped bread steep’d in red wine, a little sago, if you like it, and serve it up. To make brown Onion Soup. Skin and cut in round slices six large Spanish onions, fry them in butter till they are a nice brown 1 B THE FAMILY FRIEND. and very tender, then take them out and lay them on a hair sieve, to drain out the butter; when drained, put them in a pot with five quarts of boil¬ ing water : boil them one hour and stir them often, then add pepper and salt to your taste ; rub the crumb of a penny loaf through a cullender, put it to the soup, stir it well to keep it from being in lumps, and boil it two hours more ; and ten mi¬ nutes before you send it up, beat the yolks of two eggs with two spoonsful of vinegar, and a little of the soup, pour it in by degrees, and keep stirring it all the time one way, put a few cloves if you chuse it. N. B. It is a fine soup, and will keep three or four days. To make mock Turtle. Take a knuckle of veal, cut it in square pieces and season it highly with cayenne, a handful of sweet herbs, mace and pepper, and make some gravy, and send it to the oven : put in the pot a pint of Madeira wine; and when enough putin two cow heels, cut in square pieces, and thicken it with yolks of eggs ; have ready forced meat balls, and hard yolks, and juice of lemon, salt to your taste, and add a little more wine before you send it up. To slew a Leg of Mutton. Rub your mutton over with cayenne, and THE FAMILY FRIEND. 11 a little clove pepper, and stuff the shank with shalots or garlic, lay three slices of fat bacon in the bottom of the pot, and then the mutton, three large onions, a little lemon peel, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little salt; cover it down close, put a wet cloth round the edge to keep the steam in, but stew it over a very slow fire; pour the gravy out, and put to it a quart of water, and a gill of red wine; when enough add some morels, and thicken it to your taste, pour the gravy on, but first skim off all the fat. To dress a Turtle about 30 pounds weight. When you kill the turtle, which must be the night before, cut off the head, and let it bleed two or three hours; then cut off the fius, aud the calli- pee from the callipash; take care you do not burst the gall; throw all the inwards into cold water, the guts and tripe keep by themselves, slit them open with a penknife, wash them clean in scalding wa¬ ter, and scrape off all the inward skin as you do them ; throw them into cold water, wash them out of that, and put them into fresh water, let them lie all night, scalding the fins, and edges of the calli¬ pash and callipee ; cut the meat off the shoulders, and hack the bones, and set them over the fire with the fins, in about a quart of water; add a little mace, nutmeg, cayenne, and salt; let it stew about three hours, then strain it, and put the fins by for use: the next morning fake some of the meat you THE FAMILY FRIEND 12 cut off the shoulders, and chop it as small as for sausages, with about a pound of beef or veal suet, seasoned with mace, nutmeg, sweet marjoram, parsley, and cayenne, and salt to your taste; add three or four glasses of Madeira wine, so stuff it under the two fleshy parts of the meat, and if you have any left, lay it over to prevent the meat from burning; then cut the remainder of the meat, and the fins, in pieces fhe size of an egg, season it pretty high with cayenne, salt, and a little nutmeg, and put into the callipash; take care that it be sewed up, or secured at both ends to keep in the gravy, then boil up the gravy, and add more wine if re¬ quired, and thicken it a little with butter and flour; put some of it to the turtle, and set it in the oven with a well buttered paper over it, to keep it from burning ; when it is about half baked, squeeze in the juice of one or two lemons, and stir it up ; the callipash or back will take half an hour more baking than the callipee, which two hours will do ; the guts must be cut in pieces, two or three inches long, the tripe less; put it into a mug of clear vfater, and set it into the oven, with the callipash, and when it is enough, and drained from the water, it is to be mixed with the other parts, and sent up very hot, with a pint more of Madeira wine. To slew a breast of Veal. Take out the long bones in the inside, cut the THE FAMILY FRIEND. 10 skin and take it out with your fingers, then cutoff both ends to make it pretty ; stew the ends and the bones with a little more veal, to make the gravy; then lay the breast the meat side down, and stew it until enough over a slow fire, with a blade or two of mace, and a few pepper-corns; have ready the sweet-bread boiled and cut fine; the rind of a lemon boiled and cut small, some small green pickled cucumbers, all done separate, the same size as the lemon ; then melt four ounces of butter, mix it with part of the gravy drawn as above, clear the gravy from the fat, and mix the sweet-bread, and set it over the fire ; when near boiling, put in the yolks of eggs, beat with Hour, with half a pint of cream, but not to let it boil after the cream is in ; pour it over the breast of veal ; serve it up with forced- meat balls, and garnish it with bacon in rolls, and slices of lemon. This is a grand dish for the table, and is much liked. How to make Balls. Half a pound of a leg of veal chopped very fine, beef suet cut fine, bread crumbs, a little lemon peel, mace, pepper, parsley, salt, lemon thyme, and a little lemon peel with two eggs, leaving out one white, beat fine in a marble mortar; 14 THE FAMILY FRIEND. then make them up into little balls, ami boil them eight or ten minutes in milk and water. To make a Herrico of a Neck of Mutton. Cut the best end of a neck of mutton into chops, single ribs; cut the fat off the ends of the ribs, and fry them a light brown; then put them into a stew pan, with as much gravy or broth as will cover them, a large carrot, half a score of turnips and onions, both of a size, and the carrot must be cut in round slices, the white part of a head of celery, a few heads of asparagus or cabbage let¬ tuce fried, cayenne, and a little salt; boil them all together until tender, but do not thicken your gravy; put it into a tureen, or dish. It is proper for a fop dish. To make a Ca/fs Head Hash. Clean jour calf’s head and boil it half an hour ; when cold, cut the meat into thin broad slices, and put it into a stew pan, with two quarts of gravy, a blade or two of mace, an anchovy, a little lemon pickle, and cayenne pepper, a few sweet herbs tied up together, a little walnut catchup and a few morels; when it has stewed an hour take it off, skim it clear from fat, and put a glass of wine to’ it.—Garnish your dish with balls and brain cakes, THE FAMILY FRIEND. 15 and slices of lemon. Serve it up on a water dish, as it ought to be kept very hot. To make Brain Cakes for a Calf’s Head. Take your brains and put them into hot water to make them skin sooner; beat them well in a basin ; add to them two eggs, leaving out one white : some crumbs of bread, a little parsley, one sage leaf cut fine, a little mace, pepper, and salt; take a pan full of boiling hog’s-Jard, drop the brains into your pan, and fry them a light brown, lay them on a drainer, then take your hash out of the pan, and lay it upon your dish, with a fish slice; strain your gravy over it.—Garnish with lemon and pickle. To grill a Calf's Head. Boil your calf’s head until it be enough ; then take it up and hash one half, and the other half rub over with the yolk of an egg, a little pep¬ per, salt, bread crumbs, and parsley ; set it before the fire to froth it a good deal; keep basting all the time, with a little butter to make the froth rise; when it is a fine light brown, dish up your hash, and lay the half of the calf’s head upon it, peel the tongue, and cut it down the middle, 16 THE FAMILY FRIEND. and lay it on a soup plate ; you must boil parsley, sage, and beet leaves, to make it green, some thick melted butter, a spoonful of cream ; then mix the brains with it, and make it very hot, and pour it upon the tongue.—Garnish the dish with broiled bacon and lemon. To ragoo a Breast of Veal. Half roast a breast of veal; then bone it and put it in a stew pan, with a quart of veal gravy, one ounce of morels, and the same of truffles; stew it till tender, and just before you thicken the gravy, put in a few oysters, pickled mushrooms, and pickled cucumbers, cut in small square pieces, and the yolks of four eggs boiled hard ; then cut your sweetbread in slices, and fry it a light brown, dish up your veal, and pour the gravy hot over it; lay your sweetbread round, the morels, truffles, and eggs upon it.^-Garnish with pickled barber¬ ries. This is proper for either the top or side for dinner, or the bottom for supper. To make Veal Olives. Cut the thick part of a leg of veal in thin slices; flatten them with the broad side of a clea¬ ver, rub them over with the yolk of an egg; lay over every piece a very thin slice of bacon, strew THE FAMILY FRIEND. 17 over them a few crumbs, a little lemon peel and parsley, chopped small, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; roll them up close, and skewer them tight, rub them with the yolks of eggs, and roll them in bread crumbs and parsley chopped small; put them into a tin dripping-pan, to bake, or fry them: then take a pint of good gravy, add to it a spoon¬ ful of lemon pickle, the same of walnut catchup, and one of browning, a little anchovy, and cayenne pepper; thicken it with flour and butter; serve them up with forced meat balls, and strain the gravy hot upon them.—Garnish with pickles, and strew over them a few pickled mushrooms. You may dress veal cutlets the same way, but do not roll them. To dress Scotch Collops white. Cut off the thick part of a leg of veal, the size and thickness of a crown piece; put a little butter into a stew-pan, put in your veal, and cover it up over a slow fire; when enough, put your collops and gravy into a pot, and set it on the hearth to keep warm; fill the pan, and fry them as above, until you have done them all; then pour the gravy from the veal, and put into your pan, with a tea¬ spoonful of lemon pickle, a little mushroom pow¬ der, mace, cayenne, and salt; boil it a few minutes, then put two yolks of eggs beat with a little flour; l c 18 TIIE FAMILY FRIEND, take a gill of thick cream, put your collops in and shake them, but do not let them boil; dish them up with a few pickled mushrooms and forced meat balls.—Garnish with lemon, or kidney beans. To dress Scotch Collops brown. Cut your collops the same way as the white ones: before you lay in your collops, wet them with the yolk of an egg, crumbs of bread, parsley, and seasoning; then fry them over a quick fire; take them out and clear the gravy from them; keep them hot; add half a pint of gravy, and a tea-spoonful of lemon pickle, and a large one of catchup, half an ounce of morels, half a lemon, a little anchovy, a little pepper and salt, a little flour and butter, and let them boil six minutes ; then putin your collops: when hot, dish them up, a tew slices of bacon curled upon a skewer, and browned, and a few mushrooms.—Garnish with lemon and barberries. forced Sweet Breads. Put three sweet breads in boiling water five minutes; beat the yolk of an egg a little, and rub it over them with a feather; strew on bread crumbs, lemon peel and parsley, shred very fine, nutmeg, salt, and pepper to your taste, set them before the fire to brown, and add to them a little veal gravy ; put a little mushroom powder, caper THE FAMILY FRIEND. 19 liquor, or lemon juice, and browning; thicken it with flour and butter, boil it a little and pour it in¬ to your dish ; lay in your sweet breads, and lay over them lemon peel in rings cut like straws. Garnish with pickles. To Goosify a Shoulder of Lamb. You may stuff the shoulder bone and shank with onions, sage, pepper, and salt, and a little butter ; put a little gravy into your dish, roast it before a quick fire, basting it with fresh butter all the while; if young lamb you may strew over it a little salt, which will make it crisper and better. To dress Sheep's Rumps and Kidneys. Boil six sheep’s rumps in veal gravy ; then lard your kidneys with bacon, and set them before the fire in a tin oven; when the rumps are tender rub them over with the yolk of an egg, a little cayenne and grated nutmeg ; skim the fat off the gravy, put it in a clean stew pan, with three ounces of boiled rice, a spoonful of cream, a little mush¬ room powder or catchup, thicken it with flour and butter, and give it a gentle boil ; fry your rumps a light brown ; when you dish them up, lay them round on your rice so that the small ends meet in the middie, and lay a kidney between every rump, 20 THE FAMILY FRIEND. Garnish with red cabbage, or barberries, and serve it up. It is a pretty side or corner dish. To dress a Leg of Mutton to eat like Venison. Get the largest and fattest leg of mutton you can ; cut the same as a haunch of venison, keep it for several days or a week, if the weather will permit, in the air, with the thick end uppermost; wipe it dry with a cloth every day ; take a paper and grease it well, and wrap about it, then a paste, and then a paper and band round it to keep the paste on ; roast if about three hours, take off the paste about ten minutes before you want it, and make it a cinnamon brown : have good gravy on the dish, with a little red wine, and two boats of red wine with a little currant jelly in, also a plate of currant jelly. Oxford John. Take a leg of mutton and cut it into collops; rub the collops with eggs, then strew over them chopped shalots, with a few crumbs, and parsley, anchovy, nutmeg, pepper and salt; then have boiling butter ready to fry them a light brown; keep them hot while you get the gravy ready; hall a pint of gravy, a little lemon pickle, mush. THE FAMILY FRIEND. 21 room powder, catchup, and a bit of butter, the size of a walnut, worked in flour ; let it boil a few minutes ; then put the collops in, let them simmer awhile, and serve them up with a few morels.— Garnish with pickle. To Stew a Rump of Reef. Half roast your beef, then put it in a large saucepan with two quarts of water, and one of red wine, two or three blades of mace, a shalot, one spoonful of lemon pickle, two of walnut catchup, and the same of browning, pepper and salt to your taste; let it stew over a gentle fire close co¬ vered for two hours, then take up your beef and lay it on a deep dish, skim off the fat and strain the gravy, and put in one ounce of morels, and half a pint of mushrooms; thicken your gravy, and pour it over your beef; lay round it forced meat balls.—Garnish with horse-radish, and serve it up. To make Beef-a-la-mode. Take the bone out of a rump of beef, lard the top with bacon, then make a forced meat of four ounces of marrow, two heads of garlic, the crumbs of a penny loaf, a few sweet herbs chopped small, nutmeg, pepper and salt to your taste, and the yolks of four eggs well beat; mix it up, and 22 THE FAMILY FRIEND. stuff your beef where the bone came out, and in several places in the lean part; skewer it round, and bind it about with a fillet; put it in a pot with a pint of red wine, and tie it down with strong paper, bake it in the oven for three hours; when it comes out, if you want to eat it hot, skim the fat off the gravy, and add half an ounce of morels, a spoonful of pickled mushrooms, a little cayenne, thicken it with flour and butter; dish up your meat and pour on the gravy: serve it up with forced meat balls. Beef Olives. Cut slices off a rump of beef, about six inches long, and half an inch thick; beat them with a paste pin, and rub them over with the yolk of an egg, a little pepper, salt, and beaten mace, the crumbs of half a penny loaf, two ounces of marrow sliced fine, a handful of parsley chopped small, a few shalots cut fine; strew them all over your steaks, and roll them up, skewer them quite close, and set them before the fire to brown, then put them into a stew pan, with a pint of gravy, a spoon- lul of catchup, the same of browning, and a tea¬ spoonful of lemon pickle; thicken it with a little flour and butter: lay round forced meat balls, mushrooms, or the yolks of hard eggs. THE FAMILY FRIEND. 23 To Stew Ox Palates. Wash four ox palates in several waters, then lay them in warm water for half an hour; wash them out, put them in a pot and tie them down with strong paper, and send them to the oven, with as much water as will cover or boil them till tender; then skin and cut them in pieces half an inch broad and three inches long, and put them in a stew pan, with a pint of veal gravy, one spoon¬ ful of Madeira wine, the same of catchup and browning, one onion stuck with cloves, and a slice of lemon: stew them half an hour, then take out the onion and lemon, thicken your sauce, and put them in a dish; have ready some boiled artichoke bottoms, cut them in quarters and lay over the palates, with forced meat balls and morels.—Gar¬ nish with lemon and serve them up. To Roast a Haunch of Venison. When you have spitted your venison lay over it a large sheet of paper, then a thin common paste, with another paper over it, greased; tie it well to keep the paste from falling; if it be a large one it will take four hours roasting : when it is enough take off the paper and paste, dust it well with flour, and baste it well with butter, when it is a light brown, dish it up, with a little brown gravy and red wine on your dish. 24 THE FAMILY FRIEND. You must send a boatful of red wine made hot, and a plate of currant jelly with it. To Broil Beef Steaks the best way. Cut your steaks off a rump of beef, and rub your grid-iron well with beef suet; when it is hot Jay them on, let them broil until they begin to brown, turn them, and when the other side is brown lay them on a hot dish with a slice of butter betwixt every steak, sprinkle a little pepper and salt over them, and let them stand two or three minutes, then slice a shalot as thin as possible into a spoonful of water, lay on your steaks again, keep turning them till they are enough, then put them on your dish, pour the shalot and water amongst them, and send them to the table. To make Portable Soup for Travellers. Take three large legs of veal and one of beef, the lean part of half a ham; cut them in small pieces, put a quarter of a pound of butter at the bottom of a large cauldron, then lay in the meat, and bones, with four ounces off anchovies, two ounces of mace; cut of the green leaves of five or six heads of celery, wash the heads quite clean, cut them small, put them in with three large car¬ rots cut thin, cover the cauldron close, and set if THE FAMILY FRIEND. 25 over a moderate fire ; when you find the gravy be¬ gins to draw, keep taking it up till you have got it all out; then put water in to cover the meat, set it on the fire again, and let it boil slowly for four hours, strain it through a hair sieve into a clean pan, and let it boil three parts away, then strain the gravy that you drew from the meat into the pan, let it boil gently, and keep scumming the fat oflf very clean as it rises, till it looks like thick glue ; you must take great care when it is nearly enough, that it does not burn ; put in cayenne pepper to your taste, then pour it upon flat earthen dishes a quarter of an inch thick, and let it stand till the next day, and cut it with round tins a little larger than a crown piece, lay the cakes on dishes, and set them in the sun to dry. This soup will answer best to be made in frosty weather ; when the cakes are dry. put them in a tin box, with writing paper betwixt every cake, and keep them in a dry place. This is a very useful soup to be kept in gentlemen’s families; for, by pouring a pint of boiling water on one of the cakes, and a little salt, it will make a good bason of broth. A little boil¬ ing water on it will make gravy for a turkey or fowls, and the longer it is kept the better. N. B. Be careful to keep turning the cakes as they dry. 2 D 26 THE FAMILY FRIEND Cockle Soup. Take a knuckle of veal, and boil it with a blade of mace, a few pepper corns, and two an¬ chovies ; put to it three quarts of water, and let it boil to one; then get half a peck of cockles, open them and clear the liquor off; then clear the gravy from off the knuckle of veal, and put the cockles ai d clear liquor to the gravy ; then take the yolk of an egg and a little flour beat well, and mix the cream with it; shake it over the fire until hot, and serve it up in a tureen. To dress Cucumbers with Eggs. Take six large young cucumbers, pare, quar¬ ter, and cut them into>squares, about the size of a dice ; put them into boiling water, and let them boil up, then take them out of the water, and put them into a stew pan, with an onion stuck with cloves, a good slice of ham, a quarter of a pound of butter, and a little salt; set it over the fire a quarter of an hour, keep it close covered, skim it well, and shake it often, as it is apt to burn ; then dredge a little flour over them, and put in as much veal gravy as will just cover the cucumbers ; stir it well together, and keep a gentle tire under it, till no scum will rise ; then take out the ham and KJ THE FAMILY FRIEND. 27 onion, and put in the yolks of two eggs beat up with a tea-cupful of good cream ; stir it well for a minute, then take it off the fire, and just before you put it in the dish, squeeze in a little lemon juice ; have ready five or six poached eggs to lay on the top. To fricassee Mushrooms. Peel and scrape the itisitip of your mushrooms ; if buttons, rub them with a flannelset them over the fire with a little water, a little white pepper and salt; they will take half an hour stewing over a slow fire, put in a bit of butter, the size of a wal¬ nut, rolled in flour, a little cream, and shake it up. Garnish with sippets. It is a very good dish for supper, , To dress Cod's Head and Shoulders. Take out the gills and the blood clean from the bone ; wash the head very clean, and lay it on your fish plate: when the water boils throw in a good handful of salt, with a glass of alegar, then put in your fish, and let it boil gently half an hour; take it up very carefully ; and strip the skin nicely off, set it before a brisk fire, dredge it all over with flour,and baste it well with butter; when the froth begins to rise, throw over it some very fine bread 28 THE FAMILY FRIEND. crumbs; you must keep basting it all the time to make it froth well; when it is a fine light brown, dish it up ami garnish with lemon and horse-radish, and serve it up.—Either oyster sauce, cockle sauce, or any shell fish will be proper for it. To dress Cod’s Hounds. Steep your sounds the same as you do any other fish ; boil them in a quantity of milk and water ; when they are tender and white you must take them up to drain ; have four eggs chopped fine, and some good melted butter; pour some over them hot, and send up the rest in a boat. To boil a Turbot. Wash your turbot clean, but do not let it stay in water, for that will make it soft; rub it with vinegar, and lay it upon your fish plate, the white side upwards ; put a handful of salt and a cupful of vinegar in some hard water; if it is a large one it will take an hour boiling, but you must let it boil slow. Sauce for a Turbot. Take a lobster that is boiled, and pick out all the meat and the red part; then take some THE FAMILY FRIEND. 29 good melted butter, put the red part in, and most of the other ; then put in some mushroom catchup, or mushroom powder; give it a gentle boiling, and send it up in boats.—Garnish with lemon and horse-radish. To stew Carp and Tench. Stick the tench under the head, so as to bleed freely ; gut and scale your fish, and wash and rub them dry ; flour them, and have a panful of drip¬ ping or rendered suet to fry them in ; then fry them a light brown, and drain them ; have ready, in your stew pan, a quart of good gravy, mix a spoonful of lemon pickle, another of browning, the same of catchup, a little mushroom powder, and cayenne to your taste, onions stuck with cloves, and a small bunch of sweet herbs; the gravy must be reduced till it will only cover the fish ; then put in half a pint of red wine; when enough, take it out and put it upou the dish you intend for the table; skim your gravy and take out the herbs, thicken it with a little flour and but¬ ter ; when boiled, strain it over your fish. Gar¬ nish with pickled mushrooms and horse-radish, and serve it up. To dress a Sturgeon. Take what size of a piece of sturgeon you think proper, and wash it clean ; lay it all night in salt and water; the next morning take it out, rub it well with alegar, and let it lie in it for two hours; then have ready a fish kettle full of boiling water, with an ounce of bay salt, two large onions, and a few sprigs of sweet marjoram: boil your sturgeon till the bones will leave the fish ; then take it up, take the skin off, and fiour it well, set it before the fire, baste it with fresh butter, and let it stand till it be a fine brown ; then dish it up, and pour into the dish the same sauce as for the white carp.—Garnish with crisp parsley and red pickles. Pigeons Compote. Take six young pigeons and skewer them as you do for boiling; put forced meat into the craws, lard them down the breast, and fry them brown ; then put them into strong brown gravy, and let them stew three quarters of an hour; thicken it with a lump of butter rolled in flour; when you dish them up, lay forced meat balls round them. The forced meat must be made thus:—Grate the crumbs of half a penny loaf, and scrape a quarter of a pound of fat bacon, instead of suet, chop a little parsley, thyme, two shalots or an onion, grate a little nutmeg, lemon peel, some pepper and salt, mix them all up with eggs. It is proper for a top dish for a second course, or a side dish for the first. THE FAMILY FRIEND. 31 To boil the Jowl and Shoulder of Salmon. Salmon twelve pounds weight will take an hour and a half boiling; put it in when the water is cold, with a handful of salt, and let it boil gently; when enough, put it over the steam ol the pan, covered with a cloth. Boil some tennel.and pars¬ ley, to put to your melted butter, which must be £ood.—Garnish with lemon. Ifyou pickle any of the salmon, save the water the fish was boiled in, and boil it till the water be much wasted away; then put in alegar, pepper, cloves, a little ginger and fennel; let it boil a few minutes, and when cold, put the fish in. When you send it up, cover it with fennel. To boil Skate or Ray. Clean your skate or ray very well, and cut it in long narrow pieces; then put it in boiling water, with a little salt in it; when it has boiled a quarter of an hour take it out, slip the skin off, then put it into your pan again, with a little vine¬ gar, and boil it till enough: when you take it up, set it over the water to drain, and cover it close up ; when you dish it up, be as quick as possible, for it soon grows cold; pour over it a little cockle, shrimp,or muscle sauce. Garnish with horse-radish or barberries. 32 THE FAMILY FRIEND. To roast Soals. Skin them as you do eels, but do not take the heads off; rub over them egg and bread crumbs, with a little seasoning, roast them in the oven, and baste them well to make them froth; with a little flour, some good melted butter, a little cat¬ chup and lemon pickle for sauce.—Garnish with pickles and lemon. To broil Haddocks or IVhitings. Gut and wash your haddocks or whitings, dry them with a cloth, and rub a little vinegar over them, it will keep the skin on better; dust them well with flour: you may broil them either in the oven or on the grid-iron ; if you do them on the grid-iron, rub it with butter, and let it be hot be¬ fore you lay on your fish, or they will stick; turn them two or three times on the grid-iron ; if in the oven, baste them with butter ; when enough, serve them up, and lay pickles round them, with plain melted butter or cockle sauce. They are a pretty dish for supper. To pitchcock Eels. Skin, gut, and wash your eels, dry them well with a cloth, turn them round, and fasten them with a skewer; rub them over with egg, crumbs THE FAMILY FRIEND. 33 of biead, suet, parsley, and a little pepper and salt; rubyour gridiron with suet, and keep turning them till they ace enough; serve them up with crisp parsley, melted butter and anchovies for sauce. To scollop Oysters. When your oysters are opened, put them in a basin, and wash them out of their own liquor ; put some in your scolloped shells, strew over them a few fine bread crumbs, and lay a slice of butter on them, then more oysters and bread crumbs, and a slice of butter on the top; put them into a Dutch oven to brown, and serve them up in the shells. To make Oyster Loaves. Take small French rasps, or you may make little round loaves: make a round hole in the top, scrape out all the crumbs, then put your oysters in¬ to a tossing pan with the liquor, a little white pep¬ per and crumbs that came out of your rasps or loaves, and a good lump of butter; stew them to¬ gether five or six minutes ; fill your rasps or loaves, lay the bit of crust carefully on again, then set them in the oven to crisp, till they are enough. This is for a side dish. 34 THE FAMILY FRIEND To pickle Oysters. Open the oysters very carefully, and take off all the shells that stick to the fish ; put them into a little water, and wash the oysters in it, and strain the liquor ; boil it with a little vinegar, whole pep¬ per, salt and mace, till it taste of the spices, then put in the oysters: if they are large they must boil eight minutes, if small not so long ; put them into pickle pots; when the liquor is cold pour it upon the oysters. To half a hundred of oysters, put six spoonsful of water and four of vinegar, then tie bladders close over them. To collar Eels. Case your eels, cut off the heads, slit open the belly, take out the guts, cut off the fins, take out the bones, and lay it flat on the back ; grate over it a small nutmeg, two or three blades of mace beat fine, a little pepper and salt, strewover it a handful of parsley shred fine, with a few sage leaves, roll it up tight in a cloth, bind it well; if it be of a middle size, boil it in salt and water three quar¬ ters of an hour, hang it up all night to drain, add to the pickle a pint of vinegar, a few pepper corns, and a sprig of sweet marjoram, boil it ten minutes, and let it stand till the next day, take off THE FAMILY FRIEND 35 the cloth, and put your eels into the pickle; you may send them whole on a plate, or cut them in slices.—Garnish with green parsley. Lampreys are done the same way. To pot Lobsters. Take the meat out of the claws and belly of a boiled lobster, put it in a marble mortar, with two blades of mace, a little white pepper and salt, a lump of butter the size of an egg; beat them altogether till they come to a paste ; put one half into your pot; take the meat out of the tail part, lay it in the middle of the pot; lay on it the other half of your paste: press it close down, and pour over it clarified butter, a quarter of an inch thick. To clarify butter, put it into a clean saucepan, set it over a slow fire, when it is melted, skim it, and take it off the fire, let it stand a little, and then pour it off; but not too near the bottom. To pot Shrimps. Pick the finest shrimps you can get; season them with mace, pepper and salt to your taste, put them in a saucepan with a lump of butter, and keep stirring them till they boil; then drain them, and pound them in a mortar, till they be like a paste, and put them in small pots. When cold, pour over them clarified butter. 36 the family friend 1o pot Red and Black Moor Game. Pluck and draw them, and season them with pepper, cloves, mace, ginger, and nutmeg, well beaten and silted, with a quantity of salt not to overcome the spices ; roll a lump of butter in the seasoning, and put it into the body of the fowls ; rub the outside with seasoning, and put them in pots with the breast downwards, and cover them with butter, lay a paper and then a paste over them, and bake them till they are tender ; then take them out and lay them to drain ; then put t tern into potting pots, with the breast upwards, and take all the butter they were baked in clear from the gravy, and pour it upon them ; fill up the pots with clarified butter, and keep them in a dry place. To roast a Hare. Skin your hare, and wash it well in water, but do not let it stay in too long; when it is skewered and put down to the fire, it must be basted with butter or roast beef dripping ; for the pudding take six ounces of beef suet and the crumbs of a twopenny roll and two eggs, a little emon peel, mace and nutmeg, and pepper and salt it to your taste; also a little lemon, thyme and parsley; mix it pretty stiff, and put it in the .dies bell}, ft you like the liver for sauce, give r THE FAMILY FRIEND 37 it a boiling, and crush it with the back of a spoon, and mix it with some good melted butter. For the gravy, take a bit of scrag of beef, a little dried liver, and a lump of butter rubbed well in flour to thicken it. Send it up with a plate of currant jelly. An hour and a quarter will roast it well. If a leveret, it will not take an hour. To boil a Turkey with Oyster Sauce. Let your turkey have no meat the day before you kill it; when you are going to kill it, give it a spoonful of alegar, it will make it white and eat tender ; when you have killed it, hang it up by the legs for three or four days ; when you have plucked it draw it at the rump, and take the breast bone out, (which will make it look much better.) cut off the legs, put the ends of the thighs into the body of the turkey, skewer them down, and tie them with a string; cut off the head and neck. To stuff the neck, take a sweetbread, and give it a boiling; cut the sweetbread and take some marrow, a few' crumbs, a little parsley, mace, nutmeg, and lemon peel; take the yolks of two eggs and one white to mix it up. If any be left make it up into balls, adding a little veal cut fine, and boil them in milk and water ten minutes. Wrap your turkey in a cloth, flour it well, and put it in a kettle of cold water; when the skim begins to rise, you must take 38 THE FAMILY FRIEND care to skim it, and let it boil slowly half an hour, the steam being kept in, will stew it enough in another half hour. When you dish it up, pour over it a little oyster sauce. To make the oyster sauce, take a score of oysters, chop them, take the yolk of an egg, with a little flour to make it smooth, and a gill of cream ; shake it over the fire till it be hot, but not to let it boil. Garnish your dish with lemon and balls, and put the remainder of the sauce into a boat to serve it up. To roast a Turkey. When you have dressed your turkey as before, truss its head down to the legs ; then make your forced meat as for the hare, leaving out the liver. Make the gravy the same as for the hare, with a little lemon pickle. It will take an hour roasting, and baste it with butter. Garnish your dish with mushrooms and sausages, and serve it up. To jug a Hare. Cut the hare as for eating, season it with pep¬ per and salt, and beaten mace; put it into a jug or pitcher, with a close top, put to it a bundle of sweet herbs, and set it in a kettle of boiling water; let it stand till it is tender, then take it up, and pour the gravy into a tossing-pan, with a glass of THE FAMILY FRIEND 39 red wine, one anchovy, a Jarge onion stuck with cloves, a little beaten mace, and cayenne pepper to your taste; boil it a little, and thicken it, dish up your hare, and strain the gravy over it, and send it up. To fricassee Sweetbreads. Take four sweetbreads, scald them, and take off the skin to make them white; tie them up sepa¬ rate in linen cloths, then make some forced meat as for veal, as large as two sweetbreads; wrap it up in the caul of the veal, then in a linen cloth; boil all together in milk and water; take a little veal to make the white sauce, boil it with a little lemon juice, and half a pint of thick cream, shake it over the fire till it be hot, but not to let it boil. When you dish it up, put the forced meat in the middle, and the sweetbreads round it; pour over it some of the sauce, and send the rest in a boat. Garnish with lemon and barberries. It is a proper dish for the fop at supper, and a side dish for dinner. To make a Porcupine of a breast of Veal. Bone the finest and largest breast of veal you can get, rub it over with the yolks of two eggs; spread it on a table, lay over it a little bacon, cut 40 THE FAMILY FRIEND. as thin as possible, a handful of parsley shred fine, and the yolks of five hard-boiled eggs, chopped small, a little lemon peel cut fine, nutmeg, pepper and salt to your taste, and the crumbs of a penny loaf steeped in cream; roll the breast close, and skewer it up, then cut fat bacon and the lean of ham that has been a little boiled, or it will turn the veal red, and pickled cucumbers about two inches long, to answer the other lardings, and lard it in rows, first ham, then bacon, then cucumbers, till the veal be larded all over; put it into a deep earthen pot, with a pint of water, cover it, and set it in a slow oven two hours; when it comes from the oven, skim the fat off, and strain the gravy through a fine sieve into a stewing-pan, put in a glass of white wine, a little lemon pickle and caper liquor, and a spoonful of mushroom catchup; thicken it with a little butter rolled in flour; lay the porcupine on the dish, and pour it hot over it; cut a roll of forced meat into four slices, lay at each end and the other on the sides; have ready your sweetbreads cut in slices, and fried, lay them round it with a few mushrooms. It is a grand dish for the bottom when game is not to be had. N. B. Make the forced meat of a few chopped oysters, the crumbs of a penny loaf, half a pound of beef suet shred fine, and two eggs, mix them well together with nutmeg, cayenne pepper, and salt to your taste; spread it on a veal caul, THE FAMILY FRIEND. 41 and roll it up close like a collared eel ; roll it in a cloth, and boil it an hour. A good way to dress a Midcalf.. Take a calf’s heart, stuff it with good Forced meat, and send it to the oven in an earthen dish with a little water under; lay butter over it and dredge it with flour; boil half the liver, and all tlie lights together half an hour, then chop them small, and put them in a tossing pan with a pint of gravy, one spoonful of lemon pickle and bne of catchup; squeeze in half a lemon, pepper and salt; thicken with a good piece of butter rolled in flour. When you dish it up pour the minced meat in the bottom, and have ready fried a fine brown the other half of the liver cut in thin slices, and little bits of bacon; set the heart in the middle, and the liver and bacon over the minced meat and serve it up. To boil Rabbits with Onion Sauce. Skewer and boil your rabbits three quarters of an hour in milk and water. Take a dozen large Spanish onions, boil them and takeout the whitest part; have some good melted butter and a cupful of thick cream, and mix the onions with it; pour 2 v To roast Rabbits. Skin and skewer your rabbits, put them to the fire, ami baste them with butter; put the same forced meat in the belly as you have for a hare. Boil the liver and cut it small, mix it with melted butter for sauce. To fricassee Rabbits brown. Cut your rabbits as for eating, fry them in butter a light brown ; put them into a tossing pan with a pint of water, a tea-spoonful of lemon pickle, a large spoonful of mushroom catchup, one anchovy, and an ounce of truffles, with a little cay¬ enne pepper and salt to your taste; stew them over a slow fire, till they are enough, thicken your gravy, and strain it over your rabbits. Garnish with pickles. To fricassee Rabbits white. Cut your rabbits as before, and put them into a tossing pan with a pint of veal gravy, a tea¬ spoonful of lemon pickle, a slice of lemon, a little THE FAMILY FRIEND 43 beaten mace, cayenne pepper and salt; stew them over a slow fire till enough, thicken your gravy with the yolks of eggs and flour; adding half a pint of cream ; shake it over the fire till hot, but not to boil. Stew over the fricassee two spoonful of pickled mushrooms.—Garnish with lemon. To roast a Goose. Pick the feathers off dry ; take half a dozen ouions, half boil and cut them fine, half a handful of sage, washed aud cut fine; take a little pepper and salt and rub the inside of the goose; season the onions and sage with pepper and salt; take a lump of butter and take up the sage and onions with it; put it in the goose and tie both ends close, roast it well, and when nearly enough baste it with butter to make it froth. Have a little hot gravy upon the dish, and a plate of applesauce, so serve it up. To roast Wild Ducks. Pick them clean, and draw them, put in the inside a whole sage leaf or two, and a couple ot small onions, half an hour will roast them ; season the inside with pepper and salt. When drawn put in the inside a cupful of red wine made hot; ^ :v ■ ' >W *' ■ ' *' ** 44 THE FAMILY friend. make the dish hot and rub it with a cut onion; then dish them up. N. B. The common ducks you may roast the same way as the goose. To roast a Woodcock. Pick your woodcock very clean, and skewer it with the neb, (you must not draw it) baste it well with butter, and have under it a toast for the frail to drop on. Put the toast upon the dish you serve it up on, and lay your woodcock upon it; put over it some good melted butter, and some in a boat, so serve it up. To roast Partridges. Pick and draw your partridges, and skewer them that they may appear plump ; roast them half an hour with butter; have plenty of crisp crumbs, send them up with bread sauce, in two boats. Put some crumbs upon the dish and some on a plate. How to make the bread sauce:—Take a little gravy; boil in it an onion and a few pepper corns; have some crumbs in a basin, and pour the gravy over them; keep it warm till you are ready; put to it melted butter and a little thick cream. To roast a Pheasant. Pick and draw your pheasant, and stuff the neck ; make the stuffing of a few crumbs, a little THE FAMILY FRIEND. 45 inarrow, a sweetbread, a little lemon, mace, pep¬ per, parsley, and salt; take it up with the yolk of an egg, and stuff the neck with it. Put the head under the wing, and the legs down ; roast it three quarters of an hour, and baste it with butter. When you dish it up, have on the dish some strong brown gravy ; take two handsome feathers, and stick them in the rump of the pheasant when you dish it up. Bread sauce and melted butter, same as for par¬ tridges. . To goosify the Leg or Crop of Pork. Score you pork ; stuff it with sage, onions, pep¬ per and salt, a few crumbs and a little butter, stuff it at the skank part; if a crop, stuff it at the end. The leg will take two hours roasting, at a good fire. Serve it up with apple sauce. To boil the Leg of a Porkling. It must boil slowly two hours and a half; when enough score it in diamonds,takingout every other square; boil some split peas fora pudding, take up the pudding a quarter of an hour before you dish it up. Put it in a wooden bowl, and pound it well with the yolks of two eggs, a lump of butter rubbed well in flour, and a little salt. Boil it ten 46 THE FAMILY FRIEND. minutes, put it in tea cups and set it round the dish. It is a nice dish for a first course. To make Lemon Pickle. Take two dozen of lemons, grate off the out rinds very thin; cut them in four quarters, but leave the bottoms whole : rub on them equally half a pound of bay salt, and spread them on a large pewter dish ; put them in a cool oven, or let them dry gradually by the fire, till all the juice is dried into the pulps; put them into a pitcher weli glazed, with one ounce of mace, half an ounce of cloves beat fine, one ounce of nutmegs cut in thin slices, four ounces of peeled garlic, half a pint of mus¬ tard seed bruised a little, and tied in a muslin bag, pour two quarts of boiling white wine vinegar upon them, close the pitcher well up, and let it stand five or six days by the fire; shake it well up every day, then tie it up, and let it stand for three months to take off the bitter. When you bottle it put the pickle and lemon in a hair sieve; press them well to get out the liquor, and let it stand till another day, then pour off the fine and bottle it; let the other stand three or four days and it will refine itself; pour it off and bottle it; let it stand again, and bottle it in like manner till the whole is refined. It may be put in any white sauce, and will not hurt the colour; it is very good for fish THE FAMILY FRIEND 47 sauce and made dishes; a teaspoonful is enough for white, and two for brown sauce for a fowl; it is a most useful pickle, and gives a pleasant flavour. Be sure you put it in before you thicken the sauce, or put cream in it, lest the sharpness make it curdle. B rowning for made Dishes. Beat small four ounces of sugar, put it in a clean iron fryingpan, with one ounce of butter, set it over a clear fire, mix it very well together all the time; when it begins to be frothy, the sugar is dis¬ solving; hold it higher over the fire, have ready a pint of red wine ; when the sugar and butter is of a deep brown put in a little of the wine, stir it well together, then add a little more wine, and keep stirring it all the time; put in half a nutmeg, six cloves, four shalots peeled, two or three blades of mace, three spoonful of mushroom catchup, a little salt, the out rind of one lemon, boil them slowly for ten minutes, pour it into a basin; when cold take off the scum, and bottle it for use. To make Walnut Catchup. Take two quarts of the juice of walnuts, two pounds and a half of anchovies, half a pint of 48 THE FAMILY FRIEND. Madeira, half a pint of vinegar, a head of garlic, and some shalots, mace, cloves, nutmeg, pepper, and ginger; boil all together, and let it stand a few days, then clear it off, bottle it up close, and put a teaspoon full of cayenne to the whole. This catchup will keep for years, and is better for keeping. To make Mushroom Catchup. Take two pecks of mushroom flaps, fresh got, break them down with your hand, with two hands- ful of salt, set them in a cool place all night, clear it off, boil it and skim it well, then let it stand till the next day; clear it off again, provided there is two quarts of the liquor, put in a pound and a half of anchovies, half an ounce of mace, a quarter of an ounce of nutmeg pounded, two ounces of black pepper, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, an ounce of ginger, and a teaspoon full of cayenne, boil it all together. The next day bottle it. You may leave out the seasoning when you bottle it, and put to them a few anchovies, a little catchup, and half a pint of red wine, give it a boil, and it makes ex¬ cellent fish sauce. To roast a Beast’s Heart to eat like a Hare. Wash it clean, and cut off the deaf ears, stuff it with forced meat, as you do a hare ; paper it THE FAMILY FRIEND. 49 well at the top, and put it in a deep pot, with a little suet cut fine over it, and a little water on the bottom; put it in the oven, and it will take two hours roasting in a quick oven ; have ready some good gravy, thicken it with a lump of butter about the size of an egg, rubbed well in hour, pour it over the heart, you may put a glass of wine in the sauce if you like the taste. Send it up with a plate of currant jelly. To make Red Reef. Take the crop, or top side of the lift, salt it with common salt and salt-petre, but not to lay on too much; let it lay two days in salt, and hang it up a week or ten days: then roast it. It is a nice cold dish in winter. BouUlie Reef. Take the thick end of a brisket of beef, put it in a kettle of water quite covered over, let it boil fast for two hours, then keep stewing it close by the fire for four hours more, and as the water wastes fill up the kettle; put in with the beef some turnips cut in little balls, carrots, cut in pieces; an hour before it is done, take out as much broth as will fill your soup dish, and boil in it, for 3 G THE FAMILY FRIEND. 50 that hour, turnips and carrots cut in little balls or square pieces, with some celery, salt and pepper to your taste; serve it up in two dishes, the beef by itself and the soup by itself; you may put pieces of fried bread, if you like it, in your soup; boil iu a few knots of greens, and if you think your soup will not be rich enough, you may add a pound or two of fried mutton chops to your broth when you take it from the beef, and let it stew for that hour in the broth; skim it, and be sure to take out the mutton when you send it to table; the soup must be very clear. Boiled Pigeons and Bacon. Take six young pigeons, wash them clean, turn their legs under their wings, boil them in milk and water twenty minutes, have ready boiled a square piece of bacon, take off the skin and brown it, put the bacon in the middle of your dish, and lay the pigeons round it, and lumps of stewed spinage; pour plain melted butter over them, and send par¬ sley and butter in a boat. To make a Queen’s Pie. Make it in a deep oval dish, with cold paste; take three pounds of flour to make your paste. THE FAMILY FRIEND 51 rub in a pound of butter, as much water as will make it rather stiff, and roll a paste out for the dish edge ; the rest is for the lid. Take two fine chickens, dress them and draw the legs in as for boiling, season them with white pepper, salt, and a little mace, rub the fowls well with the season¬ ing, and put a lump of butter in each, put two slices of ham at the bottom of the dish, then the chickens, and a slice of ham upon each breast. It must be covered over with forced meat balls, and the yolks of six eggs boiled hard. Make the balls of a little veal chopped fine, some bread crumbs, two eggs, leaving out one white, some marrow or beef suet, lemon peel, mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, then pound them in a mortar, and make them up into balls with a little flour. Make a good gravy of a little ox liver, the pinions, or any bit of meat you may have ; lay a paper over the crust to prevent it scorching, and bake it two hours. To make a Venison Pasty . Make the same paste as for the queen’s piej if the venison be fat and nice you must put it in as whole as you can, if lean it will be better cut and stewed down, for an hour and a half, with a paste over it, to prevent it drying ; when it be¬ comes cold, put it in your pasty-pan, and lay some THE FAMILY FRIEND. 52 fat of a loin of lamb over it; season it pretty well with pepper and salt, and a little cayenne ; you must put a crust on the edge, and lay a thick lid over it; put in some gravy, and bake it two hours. When it comes back from the oven, have some good gravy, and a glass of red wine made hot, to putin the paste, and send it up with a plate of currant jelly. To dress a Shoulder of Mutton called Hen and Chickens. Half roast a shoulder, then take it up, and cut off the blade at the first joint, and both the Haps, to make the blade round j score the blade round in diamonds, throw a little pepper and salt over it, and set it in a tin oven to broil; cut the flaps and the meat off the shank into the gravy that runs out of the mutton, and put a little good gravy to it, with two spoonful of walnut catchup, one of browning, a little cayenne pepper, and one or two shalots; when your meat is tender, thicken it with flour and butter, and put your meat on the dish, the blade at the top of the meat, and strew over it two table spoonful of capers, so send it up. To grill a Breast of Mutton. Score a breast of mutton in diamonds, and rub it over with the yolk of an egg, then strew on a THE FAMILY FRIEND. 53 few bread crumbs and shred parsley, put it in a Dutch oven to broil, baste it with fresh butter; pour in the dish good caper sauce, and serve it up. To make a Goose Pie. Take a large fat goose, split it down the back, take all the large bones out, and season it with pepper and salt; take a fowl and split it same as the goose, and take out the large bones ; you must put a boiled tongue in the inside of the fowl, and rub the fowl with pepper, salt, and mace; put it in the goose, and sew it up the back. For the paste, take a peck and a half of line flour, two pounds of but¬ ter, and a pound of suet; boil it well, and make your paste; (make it an oval pie,) and put in your goose; fill the corners with birds, veal, or pork, to make it even. Put in the inside a pound of butter, then put on your lid, and have some parchment ready to put round the pie, to keep up the walls : you may ornament the lid with leaves, roses, or any other pretty ornament. You must bake it four hours, and have ready melted a pound and a half of butter to put in the pie, and let it stay ten mi¬ nutes after. A Thatched House Pie. Take an earthen dish that is pretty deep, rub the inside with two ounces of butter; then put over 54 THE FAMILY FRIEND. it two ounces of vermicelli; make a good puff paste, roll it pretty thick, and lay it on the dish; take three or four pigeons, season them well with pepper and salt, and put a good lump of butter in them, and lay them in the dish with the breasts down; put a thick lid over them, and bake it in a moder¬ ate oven ; when it is enough, take the dish you in¬ tend for it, and turn the pie on it, and the vermi¬ celli will appear like thatch, which gives it the name of thatched house pie. It is a pretty side or corner dish for a large dinner, or a bottom for supper. A Bride's Pie. Take two calves’ feet, boil them and take the meat from the bones, and cut it very fine; take the marrow out of two marrow hones, and some bread crumbs, a pound of currants washed and plumped, half a pound of jar raisins stoned and cut, and half a pound of fine powdered sugar; make a good paste, put some round your dish, and leave a good lid; put a layer of calves’feet, marrow, crumbs, currants, and raisins, with a little lemon peel, sea¬ soning and sugar; repeat it again, till the dish is full, adding a glass of brandy and two glasses of red wine, with a little candied orange; put on your lid, and have a little red wine, made hot, to put in when it comes from the oven, so send it up. THE FAMILY FiilEN'D. 55 To make Minced Pies , (the best way.) Take a peck of apples, pare and chop them small, two pounds of beef suet cut fine, the crumbs out of a sixpenny loaf, a good deal of lemon peel, three pounds of currants, a pound and a half of raisins stoned and cut, a quarter of an ounce of nut¬ meg, a few cloves, a little mace, a pint of red wine, and half a pint of brandy; put it down in pots, and mix them well together. To make a good light Paste for the Pies. Take two pounds of flour, rub in it a quarter of a pound of butter, roll it out three times, and put the remainder of the pound in; when you make them up, put on the top a little candied orange. To make a fine Pastefor Puffs and Tarts. Take eight ounces of flour, and seven ounces of butter; rub in two ounces of the butter, take it up very carefully with a little water, handle it very lightly, put the butter in with a knife, and turn it up with a knife, and put in the remainder of your butter ; you may roll it twice, and then it is ready for use. ( 56 THE FAMILY FRIEND. A Codlin Pie. Gather small codlins, put them in a clean brass pan with spring water, lay vine leaves over them, and cover them with a cloth wrapped round the cover of the pan to keep in the steam ; when they grow softish pull of the skin, put them in the same water with the vine leaves, hang them a great height over the fire to green ; when you see them a fine green, take them out of the water, and put them in a deep dish, with as much powder or loaf sugar as will sweeten them ; make the lid of rich puff paste, and bake it; when it comes from the oven take off the lid, and cut it in little pieces like sippets, and stick them round the inside of the pie with the points upwards, and put some syrup in ; pour over your codlins a good custard, made thus: Boil a pint of cream, with a stick of cinnamon, and sugar enough to make it a little sweet; let it stand till cold, then put in the yolks of four eggs well beaten ; set it on the fire, and keep stirring it till it grows thick: but do not let it boil, lest it curdle, then pour it into your pie; pare a little lemon thin, cut the peel like straws, and lay it on your codlins over the top. An Eel Pie. Skin and wash your eels, and cut off the heads, take an oval dish, and cut your eels the length of THE FAMILY FRIEND. 57 it, season them with pepper, salt, and a little mace, put pretty well of butter in the pie, and have a good paste over it, and bake it well. It is a nice pie to eat cold. A Rook Pie. Take eight rooks, case them, and take the breasts and the legs, wash and dry them well; sea¬ son them with pepper and salt; lay over them six ounces of butter, have a good paste with a paper over; it takes a good deal of baking; add a little gravy. A savory Veal Pie. Cut a loin of veal into steaks, season them with beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt; lay the meat in your dish with forced meat balls, if you have any oysters you may put them in : put in a little gravy, add a little more when it comes from the oven, put some paste on the dish edge, put on your lid half an inch thick ; an hour and a quarter Vrill bake it in a quick oven. You may send up some lemon with it. A Lark Pie. Dress a dozen larks, season them with pepper and salt, and put a bit of butter in each, lay a beef THE FAMILY FRIEND. 58 steak at the bottom of your dish, then lay the larks on the top, with half a pound of butter, put on your lid and bake it an hour; putin a little gravy when it comes from the oven. It is very good either hot or cold. Raised Veal Patties. Make a boiled paste, and raise them thin and high, but not more round than a small dredging box;cut your veal in thin bits, season it with pep¬ per, salt, mace, and a little butter; when baked have some good gravy to put in, so serve them up. They are a nice side dish. If you have any oval tins, bake a little light paste with a little bread in the inside, take a little fowl, ham, yolk of an egg boiled hard, an anchovy, a little pepper and salt, and lemon peel, to season them ; cut your meat small, and make it hot over the fire with a little gravy; take the lids off the patties, and fill them with the meat;you must take the bread out of the patties before you put in the meat, and then lay on the lids again, and serve them up. To make German Puffs. Put half a pint of good milk into a tossing- pan, and dredge in flour till it is thick like hasty THE FAMILY FRIEND. 59 pudding; keep stirring it over a slow fire till it is all of a lump, then put it in a marble mortar; when it is cold, put to it the yolks of eight eggs, four ounces of sugar, a spoonful of rose water; grate a little nutmeg, and the rind of half a lemon, beat them together an hour or more; when it looks light and bright, drop them into a pan of boiling lard with a teaspoon, the size of a large nutmeg ; they will rise and look like a large yellow plum, if they are well beat; as you fry them, lay them on a sieve to drain, grate sugar round your dish, and serve them up with sack for sauce. It is a proper corner dish for dinner or supper. ? A Yorkshire Gihlet Pie. Make a cold paste, put some round the dish edge, stew your giblets for half an hour, with a little gravy, lay a beef steak at the bottom, and season your giblets pretty well with pepper and salt, 1 then put them on the steak, and put on your lid. It will take an hour and a quarter in a moderate oven. A Pigeon Pie. Take half a dozen pigeons, dress them, and put their legs under their wings, season them with pepper and salt, and a lump of butter in each, the , /0m \ THE FAMILY FRIEND. 60 size of a walnut; lay a slice of bam at the bottom of your dish, then lay the pigeons upon the ham, and the yolks of four or five eggs boiled hard on the top ; put over them a good crust, and have ready some good gravy to put in when it comes from the oven. It will take an hour and a half baking. A Partridge Pie. Take two or three partridges, dress them, and either take the large bones out, or cut them in two, season them well with white pepper and salt; put a pound of butter in the inside, make a good crust, and have a little gravy to put in when it comes out of the oven, if you eat it hot; if cold, it is not ne¬ cessary. An hour will bake it. A Beef Steak Pie. Beat five or six rump steaks very well with a paste-pin, season them well with pepper and salt, lay a good puff paste round the dish, put a little water in the bottom, then lay the steaks in, with a lump of butter upon every steak ; put on the lid, cut a little paste in what form you please, and lay on it. A Trout Pie. Make the pie in an oval dish, make a good puff paste for it, and put a little on the dish edge; THE FAMILY FRIEND 61 dress your trout, wash them very clean, dry them well with a cloth, season them with pepper, salt, and mace; lay them straight in, and then cross them over it; put in three-quarters of a pound of butter. It is a very nice pie to eat cold. To pot 1 rout. Dress them and dry them well with a cloth, then season them pretty high ; put them in the pot with half a pound of butter; put a paste on the top, and set them in the oven for an hour. When you take them out, drain from them all the fat and the liquor ; you may take the fat out again, to put to the fish; put clarified butter over them, and they are fit for use. Egg and Bacon Pie, to eat cold. Steep a few thin slices of bacon all night in water to take out the salt; lay your bacon in the dish edgeway ; beat six eggs with a pint of good milk and a little pepper, and pour it over your bacon ; put over it a good paste, and bake it in a moderate oven the day before you want it. A Hunter's Pudding. Take a pound of flour, a pound of beef suet, and the crumb of a twopenny loaf> a pint of milk, 62 THE FAMILY FRIEND. and six eggs, a pound and a half of currants, washed clean, half a pound of jar raisins stoned, a little powder sugar, the rind of a lemon cut fine, mace, nutmeg, a little salt, a glass of brandy, and a little candied orange; tie it up in a cloth, and let it boil three or four hours. Wine and butter for sauce. A Lemon Pudding. Blanch and beat half a pound of almonds in a little rose water, six ounces of savoy biscuits, the yolks of nine eggs, and the whites of five, the rinds of two lemons, and the juice of half a one, half a pound of lump sugar, and six ounces of butter; beat them altogether in a marble mortar or wooden bowl; you must pound it an hour, and put it in a china dish with a thin paste at bottom. It will take half an hour baking. A ground Rice Pudding. Boil half a pound of rice in three gills of milk till it be thick ; take it off the fire, and while hot put to it six ounces of butter; blanch two ounces of sweet almonds,and a dozen bitter ones, pound them and put them to the rice, six eggs well beat, a little cinnamon and nutmeg; sweeten it to your taste, and before you send it to the oven put in a glass of brandy. Send it up with wine sauce. THE FAMILY FRIEND. 63 A Calf’s Foot Pudding. Take the meat of three calves’ feet, boiled and chopped fine, the crumb of a twopenny loaf, three quarters of a pound of beef suet, a little lemon peel shred fine, two ounces of candied orange, a little mace, nutmeg, and sugar to your taste; mix all well together, butter your cloth and dust it with flour; put in a little salt and a glass of brandy; tie it up close, and boil it two hours or better. Put it in a basin that will just hold it, and let it stay ten minutes before you turn it out. Wine sauce. A boiled Rice Pudding. Boil six ounces of rice in water till it be soft; put it in a sieve to drain, then beat it in a marble mortar with five eggs, a quarter-of a pound of but¬ ter, some grated nutmeg, and a quarter of a pound of sugar; beat them all well together, and then put in half a pound of currants. Boil it an hour. Wine sauce. Bread Pudding. Take the crumb of a twopenny loaf, boil a stick of cinnamon in a pint of milk, pour it over your crumbs, with two ounces of butter ; beat it up with four eggs, a little sugar, nutmeg, and half a pound of currants: beat it up altogether, and boil it an hour. 64 THE FAMILY FRIEND Bread Pudding another way. Take half a pint of milk, and boil it with a stick of cinnamon; take a lemon grated, half a pound of suet chopped fine, and as much bread as will make it up; beat it well, and put in four eggs, a little salt, sugar, and nutmeg. You may either boil or bake it. A Bread and Butter Pudding. Take a twopenny loaf, and cut off the crust; butter and cut it as for tea, have ready your dish with a little paste on the edge to bake it in ; lay a layer of bread and butter at the bottom, and cur¬ rants and sugar; take four eggs and a pint of milk, a little nutmeg and sugar, mix all well, and pour a little upon the bread and currants, and pour a little of your milk and eggs on, and so on till you have filled your dish. You must pour a glass of brandy over it, and put some suet on the top. Half an hour will bake it. A Transparent Pudding. Beat eight eggs very well, and put them in a pan, with half a pound of butter, the same of loaf sugar beat fine, and a little grated nutmeg; set it on the fire, and keep stirring it till it thickens like THE FAMILY FRIEND. 65 buttered eggs; then put it in a basin to cool; roll a rich puff paste very thin, and lay it round the edge of a china dish; then pour in the pud¬ ding, and bake it in a moderate oven half an hour; it will cut light and clear. It is a pretty pudding for a corner for dinner, and a middle for supper. A Vermicelli Pudding. Boil four ounces of vermicelli in a pint of new milt till it is soft, with a stick or two of cinnamon ; then put in half a pint of thick cream, a quarter of a pound of butter, a quarter of a pound of sugar, and the yolks of four beaten eggs. Bake it in an earthen dish without a paste. A Tapioca Pudding. Boil two ounces of tapioca with three gills of milk and a stick of cinnamon ; you must stir it till it becomes thick, then take it off the fire, and when cold put to it three eggs, a little salt and nutmeg, and sugar to your taste. Bake it three quarters of an hour. It is a very strengthening pudding for any person that is poorly. 3 i THE FAMILY FRIEND. 66 A Sago Pudding. Boil two ounces of sago in water, with a stick of cinnamon, till it is soft and thick ; then take it from the fire, and let it stand till it is quite cold ; grater the crumb of half a penny loaf, and pour over it a large glass of red wine, halfa pound of sugar, and four eggs; beat it a quarter of an hour, and put it in a dish with a paste on the edge. When it comes out of the oven, stick it with some almonds cut long. A Tansy Pudding. Grater four Naples biscuits in a pint of good milk or cream, and five eggs ; stamp your tansy, and squeeze it through a cloth, and take some spi- nage to green it, stamped and put through a cloth separate ; sugar it to your taste ; put in as much of the tansy juice as you like for taste, and as much of the spinage as will make it a fine green. Set it on a slow fire, and stir it till it be thick ; put in a quarter of a pound of butter. When cold, put in a glass of brandy ; you may either boil or bake it. Garnish with a Seville orange, cut into six or eight pieces. A Tansy Pudding of ground Rice. Boil six ounces of ground rice in a quart of good milk, till it is soft: then put in half a pound THE FAMILY FRIEND 67 of butter, with six eggs very well beat, sugar and rose water to your taste; put in your tansy and spinage as before, and mix all together; then pour it into your dish; three quarters of an hour will bake it. When you dish it up, stick it over with a Seville or sweet orange, in half quarters. A Quaking Pudding. Boil a quart of cream, and let it stand till al¬ most cold ; then beat four or live eggs a full quar¬ ter of an hour, with a spoonful and a half of flour; then mix them with your cream, adding sugar and nutmeg to your taste: tie it up close in a cloth well buttered, and let it boil an hour and turn it care¬ fully out. A Marrow Pudding. Pour on the crumb of a penny loaf a pint of cream boiling hot; cut a pound of beef marrow very thin; beat five or six eggs very well; then add a glass of brandy, with sugar and nutmeg to your palate, and mix them all well up together. You may either boil or bake it; three quarters of an hour will do it. Cut two ounces of citron very thin, and stick them over it when you send it up. Dutch Puddings. Take two spoonful of flour, six eggs, a pint of good milk, a little salt and nutmeg, mix them 68 THE FAMILY FRIEND. well together, and grease your pots well before you put in the batter; bake them quick half an hour, and send them up hot, with melted butter for sauce. A Slack Cap Pudding. Take a quarter of a pound of butter, rub in it a quarter of a pound of flour; put it in the oven till it be melted, then take it out stir it, and let it stand till it be cool; put to it a quart of good milk, five or six eggs, a little lemon peel, mace and nutmeg; sweeten it to your taste, and put in a glass of brandy. An hour will bake it. A plain Rice Pudding. Boil half a pound of rice in three pints of milk, with a stick of cinnamon; when soft take it oflF the fire, and put in a little butter the size of a walnut; sweeten it to your taste, put in a little salt, and one egg, P u * a little suet on the top, before you bake it. To make Black Puddings. When you kill a pig, dress the skins very well, and save two quarts of blood ; put it through a hair sieve whilst warm upon a quartern of groats, stir it often and keep it warm, to soften the groats; your skins will not be ready for use that day; you THE FAMILY FRIEND 69 must put them in water and rub them with salt, and change riie water every two hours. Boil penny¬ royal and sweet leeks in some milk, and strain it over a quantity of bread crumbs; the fat of the pig you must skin, and cut it in small pieces to put in the blood, with the rest of the ingredients ; beat four eggs and two nutmegs, with some pepper and salt, mix them well together and fill your skins, but not too full or they will break. Before you put them in to boil prick them with a pin, and boil them tea or twelve minutes ; when you take them out put them in clean straw. You must renew the fat, and be sure to put plenty in every pudding ; do not boil too many at once, or they will burst. When you have boiled them once over, put fresh water info your pot, and when it boils, boil them again ten minutes, then spread them in dry straw, and it will make them black. '.I his is the best way for making black puddings I know. To roast a Pig. Take a small fat pig, cut off the feet at the first joint, slit up the belly and take out ail the entrails, put the liver, heart, and lights to the pet¬ titoes ; wash them well out with cold water, and dry your pig exceeding well with a cloth ; shred some sage, and take a handful of bread crumbs, pepper, salt, and a little mace; take it up with a 70 THE FAMILY FRIEND. lump of butter, put it in the pig, and sew it up. Roast it till it be very crisp and well done ; if it be a fine young pig it will roast in an hour, but if a large one an hour and a half. If the skin appears dry in roasting, you must have a little butter in a cloth and rub over it. When enough, cut the ears off the head, and split the jaw in two. When you cut the pig down the back, which you must do before you draw out the spit, put the pig back to back on the dish, the jaws on each side, and the ears on each shoulder. To make Sauce for the Pig. Have a basin of good melted butter ; take the brains out of the head, and the sage and crumbs out of the belly ; mix it with your melted butter, and make it hot; pour some upon your dish before you put on your pig, put the rest in a boat, and send up with it a plate of [dumbed currants. To dress the Pettitoes. Take the heart, liver, and lights, and boil them five minutes, and then wash them out, and have a little gravy to stew them in for half an hour, with the pettitoes ; then take the heart, liver, and lights, chop them small, and put them in the gravy ; then cut the pettitoes in two, and lay them THE FAMILY FRIEND. 71 on the minced meat; season them with pepper and salt to your taste, and lay the whole on your dish. Garnish with sippets. An Apple Pudding. Make a good cold paste, and roll it rather thin; take a large codlin, pare it, and takeout the core with an apple scraper; put some sugar in the hole, and some candied orange on the top; put on your paste, and close it up at one end, tie it up close in a cloth, and boil it an hour. Three or four are sufficient for a dish. Send them up with melted butter. You may make damsons the same way, leaving out the orange. To make a Raspberry Pudding. Make a cold paste, roll it pretty square, spread preserved raspberries on it, and roll it up ; tie it up in a cloth and boil it. When boiled, cut it in three, and lay it on your dish with melted butter poured over it. To make Suet Puddings. Take half a pound of beef suet cut fine, half a pound of flour, half a pound of currants, a little sugar, salt, and nutmeg; make it up into a paste 72 THE FAMILY FRIEND. with a little cream, divide it into three, and tie them separately in cloths. Boil them an hour and a half. Plain melted butter for sauce. To make a Sparrow Pudding. Make a cold paste, take a lump of butter rolled in pepper and salt, and put in every sparrow; roll out your paste and put in your sparrows ; tie them up in a cloth and boil them one hour and a half. Pour melted butter over them and send them up. You may make the paste of suet instead of butter, if you like it. To make Barm Puddings. Take a pound of flour, mix a spoonful of barm in it, with a little salt, and make it into a light paste, with warm water ; let it lie one hour, then make it into round balls, and tie them up in little nets, and put them in a pan of boiling water ; do not cover them, or they will be sad, nor suffer them to boil so fast as to let the water boil over them; turn them when they have been in six or seven minutes, and they will rise through the nets, and look like diamonds; twenty minutes will boil them ; serve them up, and pour sweet sauce over them. 73 THE FAMILY FRIEND. A Yorkshire Pudding to bake under Meat. Beat three or four eggs with a little salt and a quart of milk, with flour to make it tolerably stiff; put it in your dripping pan, and bake it under mutton, beef, or veal. Before you take it up, have a chafingdish full of coals under, to brown it and make it light. Take it up and cut it in squares, and send it up to the table. To make Goffers . Beat three eggs well with three spoonful of flour, a little salt, and a little sugar, half a nutmeg, a pint of milk, and a quarter of a pound of currants; beat them all well together. Make your goffer tongs hot, and grease them well with butter ; then fill the bottom part of your tongs, and clap the other down; turn them till they are a fine brown, spread them on a dish, and send them up with a little wine. To make Cream Pancakes. Take the yolks of three eggs with half a pint of cream, and half a spoonful of flour, with a little sugar, nutmeg, and salt; beat them well together, grease your pan, and fry them as thin as possible; grate a little sugar over them, and send them up hot. 4 K 74 THE FAMILY FRIEND. To make Tansy Pancakes. Beat four eggs in half a pint of cream, three spoonful of flour, and a spoonful of fine sugar; beat them a quarter of an hour, and put to them one spoonful of juice of tansy, and juice of spi- nage to green them ; fry them with fresh butter, and serve them up hot. Garnish with Seville orange. To make Apple Fritters. Pare a large apple, and take out the core with an apple scope; mix half a pint of cream and a little flour, a little salt and nutmeg, sugar, and two eggs; cut the apple in slices, and dip them in the batter, fry them slowly, and it will soften the apple; send them up with sugar grated over them. To make Plum Fritters. lake some good milk, about a pint, warm it, and take five or six spoonful of flour, three or four e ggs, and one spoonful of new barm, a few slices of apples cut thin, halfa pound of currants, and a little sugar and nutmeg; fry them a nice brown, with either butter or lard. White wine and sugar for sauce. THE FAMILY FRIEND. 75 A boiled Milk Pudding. Boil a pint of new milk, pour it on three spoonful of flour, with a lump of butter, and a little salt; let it stand till it be cold, and beat it up with five or six eggs. Tie it tight in a cloth. Melted butter for sauce. To make a Transparent Pudding. Make your calf’s foot jelly very stiff, and when it is quite set, put a gill of it into a china basin, let it stand till it is quite set, blanch a few Jordan al¬ monds, cut them and a few jar raisins lengthway ; cut a little candied lemon and citron in little thin slices, stick them all over [your jelly, and throw in a few currants; then more jelly as before ; then more almonds, raisins, citron, and lemon in layers, till your basin is full; let it stand all night. When you want to use it, set your basin to the brim in hot water for one minute, take care that you do not let the water go over the top, lay your plate on the top of your basin and turn it upside down; if you want it for the middle turn it upon a salver. Orange Marmacelli. Take the yolks of six eggs boiled hard, three ounces of sweet almonds beat fine, with a little 76 THE FAMILY FRIEND. rose wafer, two ounces of butter, the outside rind of a large lemon, grated, as much lump sugar as will sweeten it to your taste; have some macaroons wetted with white wine at the bottom of your dish ; mix the ingredients together, and rub it through a small cullender over your macaroons. Garnish with preserved orange and citron. Burnt Cream. Take a pint of cream, boil some laurel leaves in it till they taste it; take them out, sweeten it to your taste with loaf sugar, take the yolks of six eggs, beat them well, then stir them into the hot cream over a slow fire, stirring it all the time; when thickened pour it into a china dish, grate lump sugar over it, have ready a hot salamander to brown it, till it is crisp like candy ; do not grate your sugar upon it till the moment you are going to brown it. It is proper for a corner dish. To make a Bride Cake. Take four pounds and a half of fine flour well dried, four pounds of loaf sugar pounded and sifted, four pounds of butter washed in clean spring water,then put in a little rose water; work your butter t-b’a cream with your hand ; to every THE FAMILY FRIEND. 77 pound of butter have nine eggs, whisk the whiles to a froth, and keep working the Hour in gradually, with the whites of the eggs; then put in a quarter of an ounce of mace, and half an ounce of nutmeg, pounded, four pounds of currants, aud half a pound of jar raisins, stoned ; beat your yolks half an hour; then add half a pound of blanched almonds, and a glass of brandy, two pounds of candied orange, and one of citron ; put the third part in your garth; then lay over your candies a third part, with your almonds ; then put in another layer, and the can¬ dies, as before, and the third layer, put in all your candies. It will take five hours baking. When it comes from the oven, you must put almond icing over it. To make Almond Icing. Take a pound of almonds, and beat them fine with rose water, half a pound of loaf sugar, and the whites of four eggs, then lay it on your cake whilst warm. Sugar Icing for a Bride Cake. Take two pounds of treble refined sugar, pounded and sifted, six of the palest whites of eggs you can find; beat them one hour; put in the sugar very lightly, a little at a time; when you have got all the sugar in, you must beat it one 78 THE FAMILY FRIEND. hour, and the longer you beat them the whiter it will be. Lay it on the almond icing with a knife, as even as you can. You must keep it from the fire in a dry place; when it is dry put a thin gauze over it to keep off the flies. This icing will do for the sides as well as the top. An Almond Cake. Take a pound of flour dried well, nine eggs, leaving out two whites, a pound of butter, washed in rose water, three-quarters of a pound of sweet almonds, blanched and pounded, but not very fine, a little mace and nutmeg, a pound of loaf sugar, sifted fine; work the butter well with your hand, and put in the flour by degrees; when your eggs are well whisked, put them in, and work them well with your butter and flour, then put in your almonds and seasoning ; before you put it in the oven, grate over it a little sugar. Bake it one hour and a half. To make a Spunge Cake. Take fifteen eggs, separate the whites from the yolks; a pound of sugar finely sifted, a pound of flour dried and sifted ; grate the rind of two fresh lemons into your yolks of eggs, and whisk your eggs one hour at least; it requires two persons to make it, as the whites must be beat also, and THE FAMILY FRIEND. 79 longer than the yolks; work the flour into the yolks gradually, with a little of the sugar, and put in the whites gradually until you have got all in; put writing paper into your tin well greased, before you put the cake in ; it will bake in an hour in a quick oven; if you see it scorch you must put paper over it, and any cake requires paper to prevent them scorching. Small Spunge Biscuits. Take six eggs, their full weight of loaf sugar, and half their weight of flour; separate the whites from the yolks, and beat the yolks very well, then the whites, till they are as white as snow; grate the rind of one lemon, then put the rind, the sugar, and all together; put the flour lightly on the top, stirring it until it is ready to put into the oven. Put them in little tins, grating some fine sugar on the tops. To make Macaroons. To one pound of blanched and beaten sweet al¬ monds, put in one pound of sugar, and a little rose water to keep them from oiling; beat the whites of five eggs to a froth, for half an hour; put them in, and beat them well together; drop them on wafer paper, and grate some sugar over them; then bake them. 80 THE FAMILY FRIEND. To make Ratijia Cakes. Take a pound of sweet and two ounces of hitter almonds, blanch and beat them in a little rose water, pound and sift a pound of loaf sugar, mix it with your almonds; have ready, very well beat, the whites of four eggs, mix them very lightly with your al¬ monds and sugar; drop them in little drops the size of a nutmeg on cap paper, and bake them in a slow oven. To make Shrewsbury Cakes. Take a pound of flour, half a pound of lump sugar pounded, half a pound of butter washed in rose water; rub it in the flour; put in a little mace and nutmeg, and mix them all well together ; make them up into a stiff paste with an egg and thick cream, roll it out, and cut them what shape you please. Bake them a cinnamon brown. They are an excellent cake. To make Queen Cakes. Take a pound of loaf sugar, beat and sift it, a pound of flour well dried, a pound of butter, nine eggs, a pound of currants well washed and picked ; grate a nutmeg, the same quantity of mace, and work your butter to a cream, then put in your sugar, beat the whites of your eggs nearly half an hour; THE FAMILY FRIEND. 81 mix them with your sugar and butter, then beat your yolks near halt an hour and put them to your butter, beat them exceeding well together, then put in your flour, spices, and the currants; when it is ready for the oven, bake them in tins, and dust a little sugar over them. To make a Biscuit Cake. Take a pound of flour, well dried, a pound of butter, nine eggs well whisked, half a teacupful of carraway seeds, a little mace and nutmeg, a pound of loaf sugar beat and sifted, work your butter to a cream, and then put in your sugar; whisk the whites of your eggs very well, then beat the yolks and put them and the flour in, then your spices and seeds, work all together, and bake it in a tin well greas¬ ed and papered. To make Jumballs. Take a pound of sugar well beat and sifted, half a pound of butter, a pound of flour well dried, grate the rinds of two fine lemons, two eggs exceedingly well beat, if this number of eggs will make it up into a paste; if it will not, set it be¬ fore the fire, and then work it altogether; cut it in small bits the size of a walnut, aud roll it as 4 L 82 THE FAMILY FRIEND. long and as small as you can ; then turn it up round in as little compass as you can, and bake it on tins. To make a Rice Cake. Beat twelve eggs exceeding well, the whites and the yolks separate; the rinds of two lemons, a pound of sugar, and a pound of ground rice; work them all well together, bake it in a tin in a quick oven, three quarters of an hour. To make a common Seed Cake. Take two pounds of flour, rub in half a pound of butter, then take a spoonful of new barm, and mix it up with a pint of warm milk, two eggs, and a few carraway seeds, set it to rise before the fire, and then work in three quarters of a pound of su¬ gar, and bake it in a quick oven. To make Runs. Take a quartern of flour, rub in half a pound of butter, make it up with warm milk, and two or three eggs, and two spoonful of new barm, set it before the fire to rise; when risen add three quarters of a pound of sugar, half a pound of currants, and a few carraway seeds. Bake it in 'little tins in a quick oven. THE FAMILY FRIEND. 83 To make light Wigs. t To three quarters of a pound of fine flour, put half a pint of milk made warm; mix in it two or three spoonful of barm, and two or three eggs, cover it up, set it half an hour to rise; work into the paste four ounces of sugar, and four ounces of butter; make it into wigs with as little flour as pos¬ sible. To make Tea Crumpets. Beat two eggs very well, put to them a quart of cream warmed, and a large spoonful of barm; beat in as much fine flour as will make them rather thicker than a common batter pudding, then make your bake-stone very hot, and rub it with a little butter wrapped up in a clean linen cloth, then pour a large spoonful of batter upon your stone, and let it run to the size of a tea saucer; turn it, and when you want to use them, toast them very crisp and butter them. To make Pikelets. Take a pound of flour, and a large spoonful of barm, a little salt, some good milk or cream, and two eggs; make it up in a stiff* batter, let it stand to rise, and then bake them on a bake-stone, f 84 THE FAMILY FRIEND. rubbed with butter, in small cakes; they are the best buttered hot off the stone, but are very nice toasted crisp and buttered. To make French Bread. Take half a peck of flour, rub in it three ounces of butter, have some warm milk and water, and three eggs, with three or four spoonful of new barm ; mix it up and beat it well before you make it stiff', let it stand to rise, and then bake it about the size of a threepenny rasp. If you want ai^y for the table make them smaller. To make plain Fritters. Put one pint of boiling milk to the crumb of a penny loaf, mix it very smooth; when cold put in three eggs, sugar it to your taste, and fry them with very little butter. To make Drop Biscuits. Beat the yolks of ten eggs and the whites of six, ten ounces of loaf sugar pounded ; beat and whisk them very well for half an hour; put in a few car- raway seeds, and six or seven ounces of flour, drop them on writing paper, and bake them in a mo¬ derate oven. THE FAMILY FRIEND. 85 To make Snow Balls. Pare five large baking apples, take out the cores with a scoop, and fill the holes with orange or quince marmalade, then make a little good hot paste, and roll your apples in it, make your crust of an equal thickness, and put them in a tin drip¬ ping pan, bake them in a moderate oven; when you take them out, make icing for them, the same way as for a plum cake, and ice them all over with it, about a quarter of an inch thick; set them a good distance from the fire till they are hardened, but do not let them brown ; put one in the middle of a china dish, and the other five round it. Garnish them with green sprigs or small flowers. They are a proper corner dish for either dinuer or supper. Snow Cream. Make a rich custard, and put it in the bottom of a china dish, then take the whites of eight eggs beat with rose water, and a spoonful of treble re¬ fined sugar, beat it till it is a strong froth; put some milk and water into a broad stew-pan, and when it boils take the froth off the eggs, lay it on the milk and water, and let it boil once up, take it off care¬ fully, and lay it on your custard. It is a pretty dish for supper. 86 THE FAMILY FRIEND. Tea Cream. To half a pint of milk put a quarter of an ounce of fine hyson tea, boil them together, strain the leaves out, and put to the milk half a pint of cream, and two spoonful of rennet; sugar it to your taste ;'set it over some hot embers in tire dish which you send it to the table in, and cover it with a tin plate; when it is thick it is enough. Garnish with sweetmeats. A very good Receipt for making Gingerbread. Take half a stone of flour, a pound of sugar, five pounds of treacle, a pound and a half of but¬ ter, melt it with the treacle over the fire; put into the flour the peels of four lemons cut fine, two ounces of ginger, and two of clove-pepper, a nut¬ meg grated, some candied orange cut fine, and a small bit of pearl-ash dissolved; then mix up the flour and all the ingredients with the warm treacle and butter, putting in a large glass of brandy ; let it stand till the next day, and then make it up into what shape you please. If you make brandy snaps, you must put little bits of candied orange into every, snap. < %3r When you make flummery, always take care to have it thick, and your moulds wet in cold 0 THE FAMILY FRIEND. 87 water. When you make whips or syllabubs, raise your froth with a chocolate mill, and lay it on a sieve to drain ; lay it safe on your glasses without mixing it with the wine. To make Calf’s Foot Jelly. Take a gang of calf’s feet well cleaned, and boil them in six quarts of water, gently, till reduced to two quarts; let it stand all night; put it through a cullender; when cold, scrape all the fat off, and put it in a saucepan with a pint of Lisbon, Madeira, or any other pale wine, the whites of four eggs, the rind of two lemons, and the juice of two, with sugar to your taste ; a glass of French brandy to keep it from turning blue; put all in whilst hot, stir it a little, and let it boil two minutes, put it in a bag and let it run through into a basin, till your jelly is clear by frequently putting it back into your bag again; when clear, set your glasses under it, and let it run into them. To make Hartshorn Jelly. Take half a pound of hartshorn, and a quarter of a pound of isinglass; put to it two quarts of water, and let it stand all night in the oven, strain it off, and put to it a pint of Rhenish wine, the whites of three eggs, sugar to your taste, with the THE FAMILY FRIEND. 88 juice and rind of two lemons; boil them together, and put them through a bag whilst clear, then let it run into your glasses. If you have no Rhenish wine white will do. To make savoury Jelly for cold Meat. Boil beef and mutton to a stiff jelly, season it with pepper and salt, a blade or two of mace, and an onion ; beat the whites of four eggs, put them to your jelly, and beat it a little; then run it through a jelly-bag, and when clear pour it on your meat or fowls, in the dish you send it up on. To make Flummery, or Blomange. When you boil calve’s feet for jelly it must be strong, you must reduce it to a quart or five gills; put it through a cullender, let it stand all night, and take off all the fat; blanch two ounces of sweet almonds, and half an ounce of butter, pound them in a mortar with a little rose water, boil them in a gill of new milk, and strain them very well; then put half of your stock into a saucepan, sweeten it to your taste, and put to it the milk that the al¬ monds were boiled in, let it stay till it is hot, then take it off the fire and stir it till nearly cold, put in as much thick cream as will make it white, and stir it well; wet your moulds, and put in your THE FAMILY FRIEND. 89 flummery; let it stand five or six hours,and then turn it out; if your flummery was stiff, it will turn out without warming, which often spoils the look of it. TO MAKE Colouring for Flummery or Blomange. Take two-penny worth of cochineal, and bruise it with the blade of a knife, put it in half a teacup- full of French brandy; let it stand a quarter of an hour, and filter it through a fine cloth : It makes it a very fine pink colour. For yellow take a little saffron, tie it in a cloth, and dissolve it in cold wa¬ ter. For green take some spinage and boil it, take off the froth, and put it to your flummery. To make a Fish Pond. Fill your large fish moulds with flummery and six small ones; take a china bowl and put in half a pint of stiff clear calf’s foot jelly, let it stand till cold ; then lay two of the small fishes on the jelly, the right side down ; put in half a pint more jelly, let it stand till cold, and then lay in the four small fishes across one another, that when you turn the bowl upside down the heads and tails may be seen; then nearly fill your bowl with jelly, and 4 M 90 THE FAMILY FRIEND. let it stand till cold ; lay in the jelly four large fishes, fill the basin quite full with jelly, and let it stand till the next day. Turn it out very carefully upon a salver, just dip it in warm water, and it will turn out better, but do not let it stay in long or it will spoil the look of it. To make a Hen’s Nest. Take three or five of the smallest pullet eggs you can get, fill them with flummery, and when they are stiff and cold peel off the shells; pare off the rinds of two lemons very thin, and boil them in sugar and water to take off the bitterness; when they are cold cut them in long shreds to imitate straw; then fill a basin one-third full of calf’s foot jelly, let it stand till cold; lay the shreds of the lemons in a ring, about two inches high, in the middle of your basin ; strew a few corns of sago to look like barley, fill the basin to the height of the peel, and let it stand till cold ; then lay your eggs of flummery in the middle of the ring, that the straws may be seen round, fill the basin quite full jelly, let it stand, and turn it out the same way as the fish pond. To make Blomange of Isinglass. Boil two ounces of isinglass in a quart of water till it is reduced to a pint, then put in the THE FAMILY FRIEND. 91 whites of four eggs, with two spoonful of nice water to keep the eggs from poaching, and sugar to your taste; run it through a jelly-bag ; put to it two ounces of sweet, and one ounce of bitter almonds, give them a scald in your jelly, and put them thro’ a hair sieve; put it in a china bowl, the next day turn it out, and stick it all over with almonds, blanched and cut lengthway. Garnish with green leaves or flowers. To make Moonshine. Take the shapes of a half-moon, and five or seven stars, wet them and fill them with flummery; let them stand till they are cold, then turn them into a deep china dish ; pour lemon cream round them, made thus:—Take a pint of spring water, put to it the juice of three lemons, the yellow rind of one, the whites of five eggs well beaten, and four ounces of loaf sugar; then set it over a slow fire, and stir it till it looks white and thick ; if you let it boil it will curdle; then strain it through a hairsieve, and let it stand till cold ; beat the yolks of five eggs, mix them with your whites, set them over the fire, keep stirring till it is almost ready to boil, and then pour it into a basin ; when it is cold pour it among your moon and stars. Garnish with flowers. It is a proper dish for a second course, either for dinner or supper. THE FAMILY FRIEND. 92 To make Eggs and Bacon in Flummery. Take a pint of stiff flummery, and make part of it a pretty pink colour with the colouring for the flummery; dip a potting-pot in cold water, and pour in red flummery, the thickness of a crown piece ; then the same of white flummery, another of red, and twice the thickness of white at die top; one layer must be stiff and cold before you pour on another; then take five teacups, put a large spoon¬ ful of white flummery into each, and let them st«nd all night; then turn your flummery cut of your potting-pot, on the back of a wet plate; cut vour flummery into thin slices, and lay them on a china dish; then turn it out of your cups on the dish; take a bit out of the top of every one, and lay in half a preserved apricot; it will prevent the sirup from discolouring the flummery, and make it look like the yolk of a poached egg. Garnish with flowers. It is a pretty dish for dinner, or side for supper. Solomon's Temple in Flummery. Make a quart of stiff flummery, divide it into three parts ; make one part a pretty deep colour, with a little cochineal bruised fine, and steeped in French brandy; scrape one ounce of chocolate very fine, dissolve it in a little strong coffee, and mix it THE FAMILY FRIEND. 93 with another part of your flummery, to make it a light stone colour; the last part must be white; then wet your temple mould, and fix it in a spot to stand even ; fill the top of the temple with red flummery to the steps, and the four points with white; then fill it up with chocolate flummery; let it stand till the next day ; then loosen it round with a pin, shake it gently till it is loose, but do not dip your mould in warm water, for it will take off the gloss, and spoil the colour; when you turn it out, stick a small sprig, or a flower stalk, down from the top of every point; it will strengthen them, and make it look pretty ; lay round it rock candy sweetmeats. It is proper for a corner dish for a large dinner. To make Lemon Cream. Take the juice of three or four lemons at least, put them on the dish you send it to table on ; make the juice pretty sweet, make hot a pint of cream, and put it in a tea-pot; set your dish on the floor; get on a stool, and pour your cream on the lemon juice; the higher you stand the more froth there will be. Let it stand till the next day. To make Lemon Cheesecakes. Grate the rinds of two large lemons, take six ounces of butter, and the yolks of nine eggs; set 94 THE FAMILY FRIEND. the lemon and butter over the fire, stir it whilst thick; take it off the fire, and stir it till almost cold; blanch a quarter of a pound of almonds, and beat them, half a pound of sugar beat, (leave out a little sugar to put over your cheesecakes,) put in your sugar and almonds, stir it a little, and set it by a day or two; make a nice paste, and put it a mode¬ rate thickness in your tins before you send them to the oven, put over them a little sugar. To make Curd Cheesecakes. Take a dish of curds the size of a large plate; work in them a quarter of a pound of butter and a little cream, sugar to your taste; grate in some nutmeg, and put in ratafia, or a little rose water, four eggs, half a pound o’f currants well washed and dried ; work them altogether, and bake them with a nice crust under. To make Curd Cheesecakes another way. Set a quart of new milk near the fire, with a spoonful of rennet; let the milk be made blood warm; when it is broke, drain the curd through a coarse cloth, now and then break the curd gently with your fingers; rub into the curd a quarter of a pound of butter, a quarter of a pound of sugar, a nutmeg, and two Naples biscuits grated, the yolks THE FAMILY FRIEND 95 of four eggs, and the white of one, two ounces of almonds well heat with two spoonful of rose water, and two of sack ; put them into your curd, and mix them well together. To make Black Caps. Jake six large apples, cut off a slice at the blossom end ; put them in a tin, and set them in a quick oven till they are brown ; then wet them with rose water, and grate lump sugar over them ; set them in the oven again, till they look bright and black ; then take them out, and put them on a deep china dish or plate, and pour round them thick cream custard, or white wine sugar. To make Green Caps. Take codlins just before they are ripe, green them as you would for preserving, then rub over them a little oiled butter, grate over them double refined sugar, and set them in the oven till they look bright and sparkle like frost; then take them out, and put them in a china dish; make a very fine custard, and pour it round them, stick a single flower in every apple, and serve them up.—It is a pretty corner dish. 96 THE FAMILY FRIEND. To stew Pears * Pare the largest stewing pears, and stick a clove in the blossom end ; put them in a deep earthen pot, with a quart of water and a pound of sugar, with a penny-worth of cloves; put a new pewter spoon in the middle, and the parings over the top, tie over them strong brown paper, and let them stew all night. If your sirup be too thin, boil it with a little red wine and sugar, and when cold put it to your pears. To make Syllabubs. Take a pint of cream, a gill of new milk, and a few lumps of sugar rubbed on the rind of a lemon; take a chocolate mill and froth it; take off your froth, and lay it on a hair sieve ; keep taking off your froth as long as it rises ; half fill your glasses with white, and have the same number of glasses half filled with red wine; put into each glass a little sugar, and lay on your froth as high as you can. If you haveany orange-flower water by you, put a little in, and it will give them a nice flavour. To make a Syllabub under the Cow. Put a bottle of strong beer and a pint of cider into a punch bowl, grate in a small nutmeg, sweeten it to your taste, then milk as much milk THE FAMILY FRIEND. 97 from the cow as will make it a strong froth, and the ale clear; let it stand an hour, then strew over it a quantity of currants, and send it to the table. To make Red Currant Jelly. Take your currants when they are dry and full ripe ; pick them off the stalks ; put them into a pitcher, set it in water, and let it boil several hours, but take care you do not let the water or the steam in ; put a weight over it to keep it steady; put them in a hair sieve, and let them stand all night to drain ; to every pint of juice put a pound of lump sugar, boil it twenty minutes, and take off all the scum ; put it into your pots when hot; when quite cold put over them,writing paper dipped in brandy; tie them over with brown paper, and keep them in a dry place. You may make black currant jelly the same way, only strain your currants. To make Black Currant Jam. Take your black currants when they are full ripe; pick them off the stalks; to a quarter of a peck of your currants, when picked, put two pounds and a half of raw sugar ; boil them half an hour ; then put them into your jars when hot; cover them with paper same as the jelly. 4 M THE FAMILY FRIEND. 98 To preserve Currants for Tarts. Get your currants when they are dry, and pick them off the stalks; to every pound and a half of currants, put a pound of sugar ; take a few of your currants, and bruise them to dissolve the sugar with; give it a boil, and put in the remainder of the cur¬ rants ; boil them twenty minutes; put them in jars, with a brandy paper over them. Keep them in a dry place. To make Red Raspberry Jam. .Let your raspberries be dry when you get them, and pick out all that are mouldy; crush your r&spberries with the back of a wooden spoon ; put your sugar over them if you cannot boil them im¬ mediately, as it will keep in the flavour ; to every three quarts of raspberries put three pounds of fine raw sugar; boil them half an hour over a slow fire, take off all the scum, and keep stirring them from the bottom; put them hot into your pots, with a brandy paper over them. To preserve Red Currants in Runches. Tie six or seven bunches of red currants to a bit of cane, about the length of your finger ; then squeeze some juice out of red currants, (about half THE FAMILY FRIEND 99 a pint) and dissolve a pound of lump sugar in the juice; then boil and skim it well; take your bunches and hold them by the cane in your sirup, for two or three minutes; take them out, and spread them on a dish: keep holding them in your sirup till all have been boiled once over; put a little more sugar into your sirup, and boil it; then put in your cur¬ rants, as before, and lay them upon a dish ; then more currants, till all have been in: dip them again, and they will have been doue sufficient; take out your currants, and put them in glasses, but not too full ; fill up your glasses with the sirup ; let them stay till cold, and then put a paper dipped in brandy over them/ Keep them in a dry place. nooV ihvrs ■. To preserve White Currants in Bunches. Stone your currants, and tie them in bunches, three or four stalks together, with a bit of .thread ; dissolve a pound of double refined sugar in ^tter: boil it, dip in your currants as beforehand spread them on a dish ; dip them two or three times, lay them on a dish, and press them a little ;.then sift over them, when cold, some fine sugar; turn them upon some writing paper, and sift more sugar over them ; when it is dried a little, sift more sugafover them ; if they require more sugar, it must be sifted 100 THE FAMILY FRIEND. over them; lay writing paper over the top, and dry them over a slow stove. Keep them in a dry place. To preserve-Quinces whole. Pare your quinces very thin and round ; put them into a well tinned saucepan, with a new pewter spoon in the middle; then fill your saucepan with hard water, and put the parings over them, to keep them close covered ; set them over a slow fire till they are soft, and of a fine pink colour ; let them stand till cold ; if your sirup be not thick you must boil it again ; put them into jars, with brandy pa¬ pers over them. You may preserve quinces in quarters the same way. To preserve Kentish or Golden Pippins . Boil the rind of a lemon very tender, then lay it in water two or three days; take a quart of golden pippins, pare, core, and quarter them ; boil them to a strong jelly, and run it through a jelly bag; then take twelve pippins, pare and scrape out the cores; put two pounds of loaf sugar into a stew pan, with near a pint of water ; when it boils skim it, and put in your pippins, with the THE FAMILY FRIEND. 101 lemon rind cut in thin slices; let them boil fast till the sugar is very thick, and will almost candy ; then put in a pint of the pippin jelly, and boil them fast till the jelly is clear ; then squeeze in the juice of a lemon ; give it one boil, and put them in pots or glasses, with lemon peel. • TO PRESERVE Green Gooseberries in imitation of Hops. Take the largest walnut gooseberries you can get, cut them at the stalk end in four quarters, leave them whole at the bottom end ; then take out all the seeds, and put five or six one in another, take a needleful of strong thread, with a large knot at the end ; run the needle through the bunch of gooseberries, and tie a knot to fasten them to¬ gether, (they resemble hops) and put cold spring water into your pan, a large handful of vine leaves in the bottom, and have three or four layers of gooseberries, with plenty of vine leaves between every layer, and over the top of your pan ; cover it so that no steam can get out, and set them over a slow fire ; when they are scalding hot, take them off, and let them stand till they are cold ; then set them on again till they are a good green ; then take them off and let them stand till cold, and put them in a sieve to drain ; make a thin sirup: to every pint of water put in a pound of common loaf 102 THE FAMILY FRIEND. sugar, boil and skim it well; when it is half cold, put in your gooseberries, and let them stand till the next day ; then give them a boil once a day for three days. Make a little clear sirup with loaf sugar, ginger, and a little lemon peel cut very fine length-ways ; skim your sirup well, and when cold put it to your gooseberries. Put them in glasses, and keep them for use. To preserve green Pine Apples . Get your pine apples before they are ripe, and lay them in strong salt and water five days ; then put a large handful of vine leaves in the bottom of a large saucepan, and put in your pineapples; fill your pan up with vine leaves, then pour on the salt and water they were laid in ; cover them up very close, and set them over a slow fire ; let them stand till they are a fine light green; have ready a thin sirup, made of a quart of water and a pound of double refined sugar ; when it is almost cold put it into a deep jar, and put in the pine apples; let them stand a week, and take care that they are well-co¬ vered with sirup ; then boil your sirup again, and put it carefully into your jar, lest you break the tops off your pine apples ; let them stand eight or ten weeks, and give the sirup two or three boils, to keep them from moulding ; let your sirupstand till it is near cold before youpouriton ; when your pine THE FAMILY FRIEND 103 apples look qui te ful I and green, take them out of the sirup, and make a thick sirup of three pounds of double refined sugar, with as much water as will dis¬ solve it; boil and skim it well ; put a few slices of white ginger in it; when it is nearly cold pour it upon your pine apples, tie it down with a bladder, and the pine apples will keep many years and not shrink: but if you put them into thick sirup at first they will shrink, for the strength of the sirup draws out the juice and spoils them. N. B, It is a great fault to put any kind of fruit that is preserved whole, into a thick sirup at first. •aftt-.JJ.-t:: •; : e-do ; jt ■ To preserve Strawberries whole. Get the finest scarlet strawberries with stalks on, before they are too ripe, then lay them sepa¬ rately on a china dish ; beat and sift a little lump sugar, and strew it over them ; then take a quart of full ripe scarlet strawberries, crush them and put them into a jar; put to them some double refined sugar beat small ; cover them close, and let them stand in a kettle of boiling water till they are soft, and the sirup come out of them ; then strain them through a bitof catgut into a tossing-pan; boil and skim it well; when it is almost cold put in your whole strawberries, a very few at a time; let them stay in till your sirup is hot; then take them out. 104 THE FAMILY FRIEND. and spread them on a dish, then put in a few more, till you have done them all ; sift over them a little sugar ; when your sirup is cold put it over the fire, and put them all in again as before; do not let them boil, and be careful not to bruise them when you take them out: You must boil up your sirup to a proper thickness ; put your strawberries into glasses with the stalks downwards, fill up your glasses with the sirup when it is cold, tie them close up, and put over them brandy papers. To make Strawberry Jam. Take two quarts of strawberries, pick them clean, and pound fine two pounds of sugar; take a gill of currant juice, boil all together on a quick fire half an hour, skim it well, and pour them into your pots hot: Put a brandy paper over them, and tie them close up. To preserve Apricots. UJ Take two dozen of fine apricots, clear from spots, and not too ripe ; put a little water into the pan you preserve them in, put in half a dozen, and let them warm till you can take the skim off clear, spread them on a dish, and sift some fine sugar over them ; repeat it till you have got them all done ; take a pint of water and a pound and a THE FAMILY FRIEND. 105 quarter of lump sugar, boil and skim it well, take it off the fire, and let it stand awhile; then put in half of your apricots, and give them a gentle boil; take them out one by one, and spread them on a dish; then do the same with the remainder; give the sirup a boil, and put to it a little more sugar: boil them as before twice more, the last time you boil them, skimyour sirup well, till it is both thick and clear, and when cold put it to your apricots, in glass jars; put over them brandy papers, and keep them in a cool dry place. To make Apricot Marmalade . Take your apricots when they are ripe; take off tile skin, and take out the stones with a penknife ; take their weight of sugar, and boil them half an hour or more; rub them well with the back of a spoon against your pan, when they are boiling; pour them into your pots when hot, and the next day put over them a paper dipped in brandy; tie them up close with leather over them. To preserve Red Gooseberries. To every quart of rough red gooseberries, put a pound of lump sugar; put your sugar into a preserving pan, with as much water as will dis- 5 o 106 THE FAMILY FRIEND. solve it; boil and skim it well; then put in your gooseberries, let them boil a little, and set them by till they are cold ; then boil them till they look clear, and the sirup thick ;then put them into pots or glasses; cover them with brandy papers, and keep them for use. To preserve Morrello Cherries. Get your cherries when they are full ripe; take out all the stalks, and prick them with a pin ; to every two pounds of cherries put a pound and a half of loaf sugar; beat part of your sugar, and strew it over them ; let them stand a few hours; dissolve the rest of your sugar in half a pint of the juice of currants, set it over a slow fire, and put in the cherries with the sugar, and give them a gentle scald ; let them stand all night, and give them another scald ; then take them carefully out, and boil your sirup till it is thick, then pour it upon your cherries ; if you find it too thin boil it again. To preserve Barberries in Bunches. Take the female barberries, some of the lar¬ gest butiches, then pick the rest from the stalks, put them in as much water as will make a sirup THE FAMILY FRIEND. 107 for your bunches, and boil them till they are soft; then strain them through a sieve; to every pint of the juiee put a pound and a half of loaf sugar, boil and skim it well; to every pint of sirup put half a pound of barberries in bunches, boil them till they look very fine and clear, then put them carefully into pots or glasses; tie brandy papers over them. r j To preserve Damsons. Get your damsons before they are full ripe; put them into stone bottles with half their weight of sugar; tie over them a calf’s bladder; put your bottles in a pot of cold water ; set them on the fire ; let them boil twenty minutes; then take them out, and keep them in a dry place. You must not take the bladders off till you want to use them. To preserve Damsons another way. Take half a peck of small long damsons; pick off the stalks, and prick them with a pin ; put them in a deep pot with two pounds of sugar, and set them in a moderate oven till they are soft; take them out, and let them stand two days be¬ fore you boil the sirup - boil up your sirup with 108 THE FAMILY FRIEND. two pounds more sugar, till it is clear and thick ; then put in your damsons, and give them a boil for a few minutes; put them into pots, and put a brandy paper over them, and tie a bladder over it. Keep them in a dry place. To preserve Magnum JBonum Plums. Take the large yellow plums; put them in a pan full of spring water, set them over a slow fire, and keep putting them down with a spoon, till you find the skin will come off; then take them up, and takeoff the skin with a penknife; put them in a fine sirup, and give them a gentle boil; then take them off, and keep turning them pretty often in the sirup, or the outside will turn brown ; when they are quite cold, set them over the fire again ; boil them five or six minutes ; then take them off, and turn them in the sirup very often till they are near cold ; then take them out, and lay them sepa¬ rately on a flat china dish ; strain the sirup through a rag, and add to it the weight of your plums of fine loaf sugar, boil and skim it well; then put in your plums; boil them till they look clear ; then put them into jars or glasses; cover them well with the sirup, or they will lose their colour ; put brandy papers over them. THE FAMILY FRIEND. 109 * t . . , . n .... .. .. , » To preserve Wine Sours. Take the finest wine sours; pick off the stalks, and run a pin down the seam, skin deep, sift over them some sugar ; put them in a jar with half their weight of sugar, and set them in a pan of water to stew ; do not let them be too soft; let them stand till the next day; then pour the sirup from the plums, and boil it with a little more sugar ; let it stand another day, and then give the plums a boil; then boil up your sirup to a proper thickness ; let it stand till near cold, and then pour it on your plums ; put them in jars, with brandy papers over them, and a bladder over that. To preserve Peaches. Get the largest peaches before they are too ripe; rub off the lint with a cloth ; then run them down the seam with a pin, skin deep; boil them in a thick sirup, and drain them very well till they are rather dried ; put them in a jar, and fill it up with French brandy. Tie them up close, and keep them for use. To make JBullace Cheese. Take your bullaces when they are full ripe ; put them into a pot; to every quart of bullaces 110 THE FAMILY FRIEND put a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar; let them stay in the oven till they are soft; then rub them through a hair sieve ; to every pound of pulp add half a pound of loaf sugar beat fine ; then boil it an hour and a half over a slow fire, stirring it all the time, then pour it into potting pots, and tie brandy papers over them ; keep them in a dry place ; when it has stood a lew months it will cut very bright and fine. You may make sloe cheese the same way. To dry Cherries. Take Kentish cherries, stone them, and to every pound of cherries put a pound and a quarter of fine sugar ; beat and sift it over your cherries, and let them stand all night; take them out of the sugar, and to every pound of sugar put two spoon¬ ful of water, boil and skim it well, then put in your cherries, and let your sugar boil over them ; the next morning strain them, and to every pound of the sirup put half a pound more sugar ; let it boil a little thicker ; then put in your cherries, and let them boil gently ; the next day strain and dry them in a stove, and turn them every day. To make Violet Cakes. Take the finest violets you can get, pick off the leaves; beat the violets fine in a mortar, with THE FAMILY FRIEND. Ill the juice of a lemon ; beat and sift twice their weight of double refined sugar; put your sugar and violets into a silver saucepan or tankard, set it over a slow fire, and keep stirring it gently till all your sugar is dissolved; if you let it boil it will discolour your violets; drop them on a china plate; when you take them off, put them in a box with paper between every layer. To dry Green Gage Plums. Make a thin sirup of half a pound of loaf sugar, and skim it well; slit a pound of plums down the seam, and put them into the sirup; keep them scald¬ ing hot till they are tender; you must cover them well with sirup or they will lose their colour; let them stand all night, then make a rich sirup; to a pound of double refined sugar, put two spoonful of water, skim it well, and boil it almost to a candy; when it is cold, drain your plums out of the first sirup, and put them into the thick sirup; be sure to let the sirup cover them ; set them on the fire to scald till they look clear ; take them out after they have been in a few days, and dry them in a stove ; turn them once a day till they are dry. To Candy Ginger. Beat two pounds of fine loaf sugar, put a pound 112 THE FAMILY FRIEND. in a tossing-pan, with as much water as will dis¬ solve it, with one ounce of race ginger, gra*ed fine; stir them well together over a very slow (ire till the sugar begins to boil, then stir in the other pound, and keep stirring it till it grows thick ; then take it off the fire, and drop it in cakes upon earthen dishes ; set them in a warm place to dry, and they will look white, and be very hard and bitter. To preserve Oranges. Take Seville oranges free from spots, cut a piece off the top, about the size of a shilling ; cut them like a pine, with a penknife, and take out the inside very carefully, but not too near; put them in a pot with salt and water; let them stand all night or longer; boil them in a large well tin¬ ned saucepan, and wrap them in linen cloths be¬ fore you put them in ; let them boil three hours ; have ready two pounds of lump sugar, boil it with three gills of water pretty thick ; put in three or four oranges, let them boil ten minutes, and keep turning them with a spoon ; when they look clear put them in separate jars; boil your sirup after you have taken out the oranges, and skim it well; let it stand till cold, and then put it to your oranges ; the next day put over them brandy papers, and tie them close with either leather or a bladder. THE FAMILY FRIEND. i 13 To make Clotted Cream. Take a quart of good cream, put to it one spoonful of earning ; when it comes to a curd break it very carefully with a silver spoon ; lay it upon a sieve to drain a little; put it into a china soup plate, and pour over it some good cream, with the juice of raspberries, damsons, or any fruit to make it a fine pink colour: sweeten it to your taste, and lay a few strawberry leaves round it. It is proper for a middle dish at supper, or a .corner at dinner. To make Steeple Cream with Wine Sours. Take one pint of strong clear calf’s foot jelly, the yolks of four hard boiled eggs, pounded in a mortar exceeding fine, with the juice of a Seville orange, and as much double refined sugar as will make it sweet; when your jelly is warm put it in, and keep stirring it till it is cold and grows as thick as cream ; then put it into jelly glasses; the next day turn it out into a dish with preserved wine sours ; stick a sprig of myrtle in the top of every cream, and serve it up. Lemon Cream with Peel. Boil a pint of cream ; when it is half cold put p 114 t 1 he family friend. in the yolks of four e gg s, and stir it till it is cold ; then set it over the fire with four ounces of loaf sugar, add a tea spoonful of grated lemon peel; stir them till it is pretty hot 5 take it off the fire, and put it in a basin to cool ; when it is cold put it in sweetmeat glasses lay over them lemon peel cut like straw'SkH— t “-Jt is proper to be put on a bottom salver among jellies and whips. To make a Trifle. Take a quarter of a pound of macaroons, put them in thfe bottom of a china dish, with two glasses of white wine, and half a glass of brandy; make a custard to put upon the macaroons: make it of a pint of cream; put it in a clean saucepan , and make it hot; ha ve ready the yolks of six eggs beat with a little sugar ; put in your eggs when it is hot) and stir it one way till it is Very hot, but not to boil ; sweeten it to your taste, and when cold pour it upon your macaroons; then take half a pint of new milk, a pint of cream, add rub a lump of sugar on the rind of a lemon, to taste your froth ; take a chocolate mill and froth it; take off your froth as it rises, and lay it upon a sieve to drain; lay it upon your trifle, artd heap it up as high as yob can ; before you send it to the table strew over it morell comfits. It is proper for a middle dish. THE FAMILY FRIEND. 11$ To make Rice Cheesecakes. Boil four ounces of rice with a stick of cinna¬ mon till soft; then drain it through a sieve; put in half a pound of butter, and crush it with the back of a spoon ; put in four eggs, six ounces of sugar, half a pint of cream, a nutmeg grated, and half a glass of ratifia water, or brandy : bake them in tins, with a good paste under them. To pot Venison. Take four or six pounds of venison ; if stale, wash it with vinegar, and let it be well dried ;then cut it in pieces, and dry it again; put it in a pot, with a pound of butter, some mace, salt, and a few cloves; cover it close up, set it in a kettle of water, and let it boil four or five hours; take it out, drain it well, and take off all the skim; pound it in a mortar, and put a little of the fat to it as you pound it; season it to your taste, and put it in potting pots; when cold, put over it clarified butter. To pot Veal. Cut a fillet of veal, and put it in a'pot, set it over the fire to stew three hours, with a pound of 116 THE FAMILY FRIEND. butter, pepper, mace, and salt; (if you send it to the oven put over it a paper, and then a paste ;) when it is stewed drain the meat from the gravy very well, and clear off the fat to put to your meat; when you pound it season your veal a little more ; pound it very well, and keep putting to it a little of your butter; put it very close down in your pots, and Jay a weight over them; the next day put clarified butter over them. To pot Marble Veal. Boil a dried tongue until tender ; skin and cut it as thin as possible, and beat it exceeding well with butter and a little mace; have ready your veal stewed and beaten as before; then put some veal into your potting pots, and then some tongue, and so fill your pots ; lay a weight on them till the next day, and then pour clarified butter over them. To pot Beef. Take three or four pounds of a rump of beef; put it down in the pot, with three quarters of a pound of butter or marrow, with cloves, and a lit¬ tle cayenne; put it in a pan of water, and let it stew five hours; drain your meat well from the gravy, and season it with mace, nutmeg, and salt; r THE FAMILY FRIEND 117 and a little cayenne; pound it very well, and keep putting to it a little of your fat; put it in pots, and pour clarified butter over it as before. To collar a Breast of Veal. Bone your veal, and rub it a little, then rub it over with the yolk of an egg, strew all over it a little beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper, salt, a large handful of parsley chopped small, with a few sprigs of sweet marjoram, a little lemon peel cut exceed¬ ing fine,and oneanchovy, washed,boned,chopped small, and mixed with a few bread crumbs; then roll it up very tight, bind it with a fillet, and wrap it in a clean cloth ; then boil it two hours and a half in soft water ; when it is enough hang it up by one end, and make a pickle for it: to one pint of salt and water put half a pint of vinegar; when you send it to the table cut a slice off one end: garnish with pickles and parsley. To collar a Calf's Head. Take a calf's head with the skin on, and dress off the hair, then rip it down the face, and take out all the bones carefully from the meat, and steep it in warm blue milk, till it i» white ; then lay it flat, and rub it with the white of an egg, and strew THE FAMILY FRIEND. 118 over it a tea spoonful of white pepper, two or three spoonful of beaten mace, and one nutmeg, a spoon¬ ful of salt, two scores of oysters chopped small, half a pound of beef marrow, and a large handful of parsley ; lay them all over the inside of the head, cut off the ears, and lay them in a thin part of the head, roll it up tight, bind it with a fillet, and wrap it up in a clean cloth; then boil it two hours, and when it is nearly cold, bind it up with a fresh fillet, and put it in a pickle made as above, and keep it for use. To pot all kinds of small Birds. Pick and gut your birds, dry them well with a cloth, and season them with mace, pepper, and salt; put them into a ppt with butter, tie paper over your pot, and stew them in a moderate oven ; when they come out drain the gravy from (hem, and put them into potting pots; when cold, cover them with clarified butter. To pot Pigeons. Clean your pigeons very well, and cut off the pinions; dry them very clean, and season them well with pepper and salt, and a little nutmeg; put a lump of butter in the inside of every pigeon $ put them into a pot with butter over them, tie them THE FAMILY FRtEND. fit) down, and set (hem in a moderate oven ; whvbft they come from the oven, drain them well from the gravy, and season them a little more; put them in your pots, and when cold cover them with clarified butter. To pot a Hare. Hang up your hare with the skin on for three or four days, then take it down and case it; cut it up as lor eating, and put it in a pot, with mace, pepper, and salt; put a pound of butter over it, and stew it in an oven; when enough, take the meat from the bones, and season it a little more, adding cayenne and a few cloves; beat it very well in a mortar, and then put it in potting pots very close down; let it stand till cold, and then pour over it clarified butter. Keep it in a dry place. To collar a Pig. Take your pig and dress it very well; wash and dry it clean ; take a sharp knife, rip it open, and take out all the large bones ; rub it well with pepper, salt, and mace; take a handful of parsley and some sage leaves, chop them very small, and lay them in the inside of the pig, and roll it tip tight; bind it Very well with a long fillet, then fill 120 THE FAMILY FRIEND your boiler with soft water, and put in halt a hand¬ ful of.salt, a pint of vinegar, some mace and pep¬ per corns, and ten cloves, with a bunch of sweet herbs; when it boils put in your pig, and let it boil slowly for two hours; if it requires the fillet a little tighter, you must tighten it before you hang it up ; let it drain and stay till cold; then put it in an earthen pot, with the liquor it was boiled in: when you send it to table cut a slice off the end. To make Mock Brawn. Take a belly piece of pork, and the head and feet of a young porkling; salt it, lay on a little saltpetre, and let it stay a few days; split the head and feet,and boil them till they are very tender; take out all the bones, and lay the meat on the piece of pork ; put in two cow heels, and sprinkle over them a little spices; roll it up tight, and boil it slowly for three hours; hang it up till the next morn¬ ing, and put it in pickle the same as for any thing collared. To make an Almond Posset. Grate the crumb of a penny loaf very fine, pour a pint of boiling milk upon them, and let them stand two or three hours; then beat it ex¬ ceeding well; add to it four ounces of almonds blanched and beat as fine as possible, with rose THE FAMILY FRIEND. 121 water, and a quart of good cream ; mix them all well together, and set them over a slow fire ; boil them a quarter of an hour; set them to cool, and beat the yolks of four eggs, and mix with your cream; when it is cold, sweeten it to your taste; then stir it over a slow fire till it grows pretty thick, but do not let it boil, or it will curdle; then put it in a china bowl, and send it up with a few macaroons to swim on the top. It is proper for a top dish at supper. To mull Wine. Put a pint of new milk to a pint of wine; sweeten it to j our taste, and grate in some nutmeg ; let it be a little hot; beat in the yolks of four eggs with a little wine, and put it to your milk and wine ; pour it backwards and forwards to keep it of a fine froth, and set it a little on the fire to make it pretty hot; send it up in a basin, with some toast upon a plate. To mull Ale. Take a pint of good strong ale, and put in a little nutmeg and sugar; set it on the fire to be made hot; beat two eggs in a little cold ale, pour it into your hot ale backwards and forwards; set it on the fire a little, and continue to do so till it is quite hot; send it up as before. 6 Q THE FAMILY FRIEND. 122 To make Wine Whey. Take a pint of skimmed milk, and to half a pint of water put half a pint of wine in a jug; pour your milk and water boiling hot upon it, with a lit¬ tle lump sugar, and a slice of lemon ; the curd will be in a lump, and you must pour the whey from it. To make Cream of Tartar Whey. Set a pint of blue milk over the fire; when it begins to boil, put in two tea spoonful of cream of tartar, take it off the fire, and pour it into a basin. Drink it new milk warm. To make Beef Tea. Take a pound of lean beef, cut it in thin slices, put it in a jar, and pour a quart of boiling water upon it; cover it up close, to keep in the steam. It must be drank new milk warm, and is very good fora weak constitution. To make Chicken Broth. Skin a chicken, and boil it in two quarts of water, with a little mace and a crust of white bread ; boil it to half the quantity, and take off the fat; send it up in a basin, with a little dry toast. THE FAMILY FRIEND. 123 To make Groat Gruel. Boil half a pint of groats in three pints of water, or more, as you would have your gruel for thick¬ ness, with a blade or two of mace, take it off the fire, put to it a quarter of a pound of currants, washed well; put it in a china bowl, and a toast of bread round, cut in long pieces. To make Sago Gruel. Take four ounces of sago, wash it in warm water, and set it over the fire, with two quarts of water and a stick of cinnamon ; keep skimming it till it grows thick and clear; when your sago is enough, take out the cinnamon and put in a pint of red wine ; if you would have it very strong, put in more, and sweeten it to your taste; then set it over the fire to warm, but not to let it boil after the wine is put in,as it weakens the taste, and makes the colour not so deep a red ; pour it into a tureen, and put in a slice of lemon when you send it to table. It is pro¬ per for a top dish for supper. To make Raisin Wine. Take a wine or a brandy cask to put your raisins in ; to every gallon of water put six pounds of raisins picked very clean from the stalks; keep stirring it every day for six weeks, then make up THE FAMILY FRIEND. 124 your cask with clay for eight months; then bottle it off; the longer you keep the wine the better it will be. You may use the raisins after for either distilling or making a small wine of. To make Cowslip Wine. Boil six gallons of water, and to every gallon put three pounds of loaf sugar, boil and skim it very well; put it in the tub you intend to work it in ; when cold squeeze in some lemons and oranges, then putin three pecks of cowslip pips,and a spoon¬ ful of barm upon a bit of white toast, let it work two or three days, put it in the barrel with some lemon peel; when it has done working fasten it up for two or three months, then bottle it off, and put a little brandy into every bottle. To make Blackberry Wine. Gather your blackberries when they are full ripe; take twelve quarts, and crush them with your hand : boil six gallons of water with sixteen pounds of brown sugar, a quarter of an hour, skim it well; put into your cask six pounds of Malaga raisins, then pour the wine into the cask, with one ounce of isinglass, which must be dissolved in a little cider; stir it all up together, close it up and let it stand six months, then bottle it. THE FAMILY FRIEND 125 To make Birch Wine. To every gallon of birch water put three pounds of sugar; work it three or four days in a tub, put¬ ting in a little wine upon a toast; stir it every day in the tub, then rinse your barrel with a little brandy, and put in your water and sugar, with a pound of raisins to every gallon ; dissolve two pennyworth of isinglass and put it in; stir it every day for a fort¬ night, and make it up for six months, then bottle it. You may either boil the sugar and water, or make it without boiling at all. To make Orange Wine. Take six gallons of water, and three pounds of fine sugar to every gallon; boil it three quarters of an hour: when boiling, put in the whites of two eggs to make the scum rise; skim it well, and when it is cold enough for working, put in three spoonful of barmy and the peel and juice of fifty oranges ; work it two days and a night, and then make it up in your barrel. Bottle it at four months old. To make Red Currant Wine. Take five quarts of red currants, full ripe; bruise and take all the stalks from them ; to every 126 THE FAMILY FRIEND. five quarts of fruit put a gallon of water and a quart of raspberries; to every gallon of liquor put three pounds of sugar ; boil your sugar and water, and put in two whites of eggs, and skim it well; when cold, strain in your fruit through a hair sieve ; dis¬ solve a little isinglass and put in. Put your liquor into the barrel, and when you make it up, put in a quart of brandy. Keep it until fine, then bottle it. To make Gooseberry Wine. Take twelve quarts of good ripe gooseberries, stamp them, and put to them twelve quarts of water, and fifteen pounds of sugar; let them stand three days, and stir them twice every day ; then put it into your cask, with half an ounce of isinglass dissolved ; clay up your barrel, and let it stay two months, then botile it. To make Hahn Wine. Boil twelve quarts of water; put to it nine pounds of sugar, skim it well, and take it off to cool ; put it in the vessel you intend to keep it in, and put to it a pound and a half of the tops of balm, shred a little; let it work twenty-four hours, stirring it every two hours, putting in a little barm ; close it up in a barrel, and bottle it in ten or twelve weeks. THE FAMILY FRIEND. 127 To make Mulberry Wine. Take your mulberries when they are full ripe, beat them in a marble mortar; to every quart of berries put a quart of water, rub them very well with your hands into a tub, let them stand all night, and strain them through a sieve; to every gallon of water put three pounds of sugar, and when the sugar is dissolved put it into your barrel ; take two- pennyworth of isinglass and chop it in pieces, put to it a little wine, and let it stand within the air of the fire all night; take the whites of two eggs, beat them very well, then put them to the isinglass, mix them well together, and put them into your barrel, stirring it about when it is put in; do not let it be too full, nor bung it close at first; set it in a cool place, and bottle it when fine. To make Sirup of Mulberries. lake the mulberries when they are full ripe, break them very well with your hand, and drop them through a flannel bag; to every pound of juice take half a pound of loaf sugar ; boil and skim it well all the time it is boiling; when (the scum has done rising it is enough; when it is cold bottle it, and keep it for use. You may make raspberry sirup the same way. 128 THE FAMILY FRIEND To make Elder Wine. Take twenty pounds of Malaga raisins, picked from the stalks, and twenty quarts of water; boil your water, and let it be cold again; then put in your raisins, with six pounds of sugar, and six quarts of elder juice, a little ginger, and some juice of sloes, to give it a roughness; when it has done fermenting make up the cask for three months, and keep it in a dry place, then bottle it off. To make Gooseberry Vinegar. Boil eight gallons of water with twelve pounds of brown sugar, boil and skim it well, let it stand till cold ; gafher your gooseberries when full ripe, and bruise them; to every quart of mash put three quarts of water, put it to your sugar and water, and let it stand twenty-four hours; then strain it; put it in a barrel, and the day following close up the barrel. Keep it in a dry place. One gallon of gooseberries yields two quarts of mash. To keep French Beans. $ Gather your beans when full dry and not too old ; put them in an earthen jar, in layers of the beans, and then of salt; let your last layer be salt; put a flag on the top, and set them in a dry cellar. THE FAMILY FRIEND. 129 To keep French Beans another way. Make a strong salt and water that will bear an egg; set it on the (ire; when it boils put iti your beans, and boil them five or six minutes; take them out, and lay them on a sieve; put to your salt and water a little bay salt, boil it ten minutes, skim it well, and pour it into an earthen jar to cool and settle; put your beans into a narrow stopped jar, and pour the clear liquor over them; tie a calf’s bladder over them that no air may get in. Put them in salt and water the night before you use them, to take out the saltness. To keep Mushrooms to eat like fresh ones. Wash large buttons as you would for stewing, and lay them on sieves with the stalks upwards; strew over them some salt to fetch out the water; when they are drained, put them in a pot, and set them in a cool oven for an hour; then take them carefully out, and lay them to cool and drain; boil the liquor that comes out of them with a blade of mace, and boil it half away; put your mushrooms into a clean jar well dried ; when the liquor is cold cover your mushrooms in the jar with it, and pour over it rendered suet; tie a bladder over it, and set them in a dry place, where they will keep very well most of the winter. 6 R THE FAMILY FRIEND 130 When you use them, take them out of the liquor, pour over them boiling milk, and let them stand an hour, thicken them with dour and butter, and be careful you do not oil them; then beat the yolks of two eggs with a little cream, and put it in, but do not let it boil after the eggs are in ; lay untoasted sippets round the inside of the dish and serve them up ; they will eat near as good as fresh gathered mushrooms; if they do not taste strong enough, put in a little of the liquor; this is a valuable liquor, and it will give all made dishes a flavour like fresh mushrooms. To keep Mushrooms another way. Scrape large flaps, peel them, take the inside out, and then boil them in their own liquor and a little salt; then lay them on tins, set them in a cool oven, and repeat them till they are dry ; put them in clean jars, tie them close down, and they will eat very good. To dry Artichoke Bottoms. Pluck your artichokes before they are full grown ; boil them till the leaves will come easily out, and then dress and dry them in a cool oven ; you must hold them up to the light, and if you can see through them they are dry enough ; put them in paper bags, and hang them up. THE FAMILY FRIEND. 131 To bottle Damsons. Take your damsons when they are just turned colour, put them in wide-necked bottles, and tie a bladder over them; set the bottles in dry sand, and they will keep till spring. To bottle Goosebert'ies. Pick green walnut gooseberries, fill your bot¬ tles, and then fill them up with spring water; put a cork loose in, and set them in a copper of water till they are quite hot through ; then take them out, and let them stay till the next day; cork them, and tie a bladder over the top, and keep them in a dry cool place. To bottle Cranberries. Gather your cranberries when they are quite dry, pick and bottle them, cork them close, and set them in a dry cool place. To bottle green Currants. Gather your currants when the sun is hot upon them; strip them from the stalks, and put them into dry bottles; set them in dry sand, and they will keep till spring. THE FAMILY FRIEND. 132 To pickle Walnuts. Gather your walnuts when the sun is upon them, and before the shell is hard, which you may know by running a pin into them ; put them into a strong salt and water for nine days, stirring them twice a day, and change the salt and water every three days; then put them into a hair sieve, and let them stand in the air till they turn black; then put them into strong stone jars, and pour boiling alegar over them; cover them up, and let them stand till cold ; then boil the alegar three times more, and let it stand till it is cold betwixt each time ; then take as much fresh alegar as will cover them, boil it up with pepper, cloves, and gin¬ ger, a little bag of mustard seed, and a head of garlic; pour it over your walnuts, and let them stand till cold ; then tie them over with a blad¬ der, and in two months they will be ready for use. To pickle Samphire. Wash your samphire in sour beer, and put it in a large brass pan ; dissolve in sour beer a little bay salt, and twice the quantity of common salt, put it to your samphire, and fill up your pan with sour beer; cover it very close, and set it over a slow fire till it is a fine green ; then put it in a hair sieve to drain ; put it in jars, and boil THE FAMILY FRIEND 133 white wine vinegar, with ginger, pepper-corns, and a few cloves; pour it hot upon your samphire, and when cold tie it close down. To pickle Mangoe. Take the largest cucumbers you can get, chuse them a fine green, and heavy, (as those have the less seeds in) cut a piece out of the side, and take out the inside very carefully with an apple-scope, and put them into a large pot with strong salt and water ; keep stirring them-twice a day till they are yellow ; then take some fresh salt and water, and scald them twice or thrice a day, till they are a good green ; take a little alegar and give them a scald, and whilst they are scalding prepare the seasoning : Take a pound of brown mustard seed, a pound of shalots, two ounces of beaten ginger, a little horseradish cut fine, half an ounce of cloves, half an ounce of mace, two ounces of pepper-corns, and a head of garlic; fill up your cucumbers, and sew in the pieces belonging to each; tie them with Holland twine, and then put them in your jars. Take as much strong beer alegar as will cover them, and put in part of your ginger and pepper; boil it, and if any of your seasoning is left, put it in a bag, and boil it with your alegar; pour it hot upon your mangoes, and when cold tie them close up. 134 THE FAMILY FRIEND. To pickle Beet Roots. Take red beet roots, and boil them till they are tender ; then take the skins off, cut them in slices, and gimp them in the shape of leaves, or what form you please, and put them into a jar; then take as much vinegar as will cover them, and boil it with a little mace, a race of ginger sliced, and a few slices of horseradish ; pour it hot upon your roots, and tie them down. They are a very pretty gar¬ nish for made dishes. To pickle Elder Buds. Get your elder buds when they are the size of hop buds, and put them into strong salt and water for nine days; stir them two or three times a day ; then put them into a brass pan, cover them with vine leaves, and pour the water on which they came out of; set them over a slow fire till they are quite green; then make a pickle for them, of alegar, a little mace, a few shalots, and some ginger sliced ; boil them a few minutes, and pour it upon your buds; tie them down, and keep them in a dry place for use. To pickle Barberries. Get your barberries before they are full ripe; pick out the leaves and the dead stalks; then put THE FAMILY FRIEND 135 them into jars, with a large quantity of salt and water, and tie them down with a bladder. N. B. When you see your barberries scum over, put them into fresh salt and water; they need no vinegar, their own sharpness is sufficient to keep them. To pickle Cucumbers in slices. Oet your cucumbers large before the seeds are i ipe; slice them a quarter of an inch thick, then lay them on a hair sieve, and betwixt every lay put a shalot or two; throw on a little salt, and let them stand four or five hours to drain; then put them into a stone jar; take as much strong alegar as will cover them, boil it fi ve minutes with a blade or two of mace, a few white pepper-corns, a little ginger sliced, and some horseradish scraped ; then pour it boiling hot upon your cucumbers, and let them stand till they are cold ; do so two or three times more, let it grow cold betwixt every time, then tie them down with a bladder for use. To pickle Cucumbers. ■Take the smallest cucumbers you can get, and as free from spots as possible; put them into strong salt and water till they are quite yellow, and stir 136 THE FAMILY FRIEND. them twice every day at least, to prevent them being soft; take some fresh salt and water, boil it, and pour it over your cucumbers, aud let it stand till cold ; then boil your salt and water again, and pour it over them, and keep doing so till they are a fine green $ then put them into a hair sieve to drain; make a pickle for them, of some good alegar, a little mace, a few cloves, one ounce of ginger, cut in slices, the same of black pepper, and a little horseradish; boil it, and pour it hot upon your pickles; when cold, tie them down with a bladder, and keep them for use. To pickle Kidney Beans. Get your beans when they are young and small; put them into a strong salt and water for a few days, and stir them twice or three times every day ; then put them into a brass pan, with vine leaves both under and over them; pour on them the water they came out of; cover them close, and set them over a slow fire till they are a fine green; put them into a hair sieve to drain, and make a pickle for them of good alegar; boil it five or six minutes with a little mace, Jamaica pepper, long pepper, and a race or two of ginger sliced, then pour it hot upon the beans, and tie then* down with a bladder. the family friend. 157 To pickle Onions. Peel the smallest onions you can get, and put them into salt and water for two or three days, changing the water every day 5 i put them in jars, and pour boiling salt and water over them two or three times : have some good vinegar, boil it with ginger, white pepper, and mace; when the vinegar is cold pour it upon the onions; if you like th&taste of bay leaves, put a few into every jar, and a spoon¬ ful of oil when you make it up; tie bladders ovefc them. If you wish to have them very white, you must have double distilled vinegar. To make Indian Pickle. Take a few white cabbages, cut them in slices; half a dozen cauliflowers, cut them in pieces; a few codlin apples, kidney beans, radish pods, a few nasturtiums, some small cucumbers, shalots or onions, green plums if you have them; put them into a large earthen pot, with a quantity of salt between every layer; cover them well with salt, and let it stand a day or two till it is quite sodden; take it out, and put it in hair sieves for three days to dry before the fire, or in the sun ; put it into a large stone jar, and between every layer put in a handful of mustard seed ; take as much strong alegar as will cover it well, boil it with two ounces of black pepper, one of long pepper, two ouuces 6 s 138 THE FAMILY FRIEND. of ginger, either cut or beat, half an ounce of cloves, a spoonful of cayenne, and one ounce of turmeric; pour it hot upon your pickle, and the next day boil it again, adding more alegar to it, and a few heads of garlictie it close down, and keep it well covered with alegar. You may put to it any thing that comes in season, only salt it in the same man* ner as before. To pickle Mushrooms white. - i.3 Take small buttons fresh gathered ; take a piece of flannel, and wet one part of it in milk and water, and rub them till they are white, and put them into milk and water as you do them, until you have done them all ; then take some fresh milk and water, and set it over the fire ; put the mushrooms in, and let them steam a little over the fire; take them out carefully into sieves, and then spread them whilst hot upon flannels, and cover them close up to keep in the steam, until the pickle is ready.— Take as much double distilled vinegar as will cover them well, boil it with a little mace, white pepper¬ corns, and white ginger; put your mushrooms into pint bottles with wide necks, aud fill up your bot¬ tles with the pickle; when quite cold, put a spoon¬ ful of sweet oil into every bottle; cork your bottles and tie a bladder over them. They will look the best in clear flint bottles. THE FAMILY FRIEND. 139 To pickle Mushrooms brown. Take buttons, and rub them with a flannel dipped in salt and water; put them into a dean pot, and sprinkle a little salt over every layer ; when you have got a quantity set them over the fire, and scald them in their own liquor; take offal I the scum, let them stand till the next day, and scald them again; skim it well, and then put in alegar accord¬ ing to the quantity, and a little pepper and ginger; put them into jars, aud tie them close down, and they are ready for present use. They are very nice in beef steaks, mutton chops, &c. To make Mushroom Powder. Take fresh mushrooms, such as you would like for stewing, or larger; peel off the out skins, then take a knife and scrape the red out of the inside ; spread them separately on dishes or on tins, and set them before the kitchen fire to dry; then put them into a slow oven to be thoroughly dried, but not to brown them; when quite dry, pound them in a marble mortar ; when well pounded, put in a little mace pounded, half a spoonful of cayenne, and mix it with your powder ; put it in small bot¬ tles, and cork them close up. It will keep several years. ’• ■■ ; 140 THE FAMILY FRIEND. To pickle Nasturtium Suds. Gather your buds before they are too old ; put them into salt and water till they are yellow, chang¬ ing the water two or three times; then scald them with fresh salt and water till they are green ; make a pickle for them of some good alegar, ginger, pepper, and cloves; boil it, and pour it over your buds ; then tie them up, and keep them for use. You nray do radish pods in the same way. To pickle Cauliflowers white. Take two or three white cauliflowers, the firmest you can get, cut them in sprigs, as you would wish to send them to table, giving them a gentle boil, but not too long; take them oflTthe fire, and spread them upon cloths; sprinkle some salt over, and cover them to keep in the steam ; take some double distilled vinegar, boil it with a little mace, white pepper, and a little ginger; put your cauliflowers into jars, and pour your vinegar over when cold . Tie them close up with a bladder. To pickle Cauliflowers another way. Take your cauliflowers as before, cut them in pieces and sprinkle some salt over them; take a little hot vinegar and scald them ; bruise a little THE FAMILY FRIEND 141 cochineal, and dissolve it in alegar; take as much alegar as you think will cover them, boil it with pepper, cloves and ginger; put your cauliflowers in jars, and pour your alegar hot upon them; put into each jar a head of garlic: when cold tie a bladder over it. To pickle Codlins. Get your codlins when they are the size of a large French walnut; put a good deal of vine leaves in the bottom of a brass pan, then put in your codlins, cover them very well with vine leaves, and set them over a slow fire till you can peel off the skins; take them carefully up in a hair sieve, peel them with a penknife, and put them into the same pan again, with the vine leaves as before; cover them close, and set them over a slow fire till they are a fine green ; drain them through a hair sieve, and when they are cold put them into vinegar, with a little ginger, pep¬ per, and a few bay leaves : tie them up close with a bladder. To pickle Red Cabbage . Take a red cabbage, cut it in very thin slices, put it into an earthen pot, and sprinkle a quan¬ tity of salt over it; let it stand a day and night; 142 THE FAMILY FRIEND. then take three gills of alegar, rinse your cabbage with it, and squeeze it into your jars; boil some fresh alegar, with a little pepper and ginger; when cold pour it upon your cabbage. Tie it close up, Non-Imperial. Take one gallon of water, boil in it one ounce of cream of tartar very well, pour it hot upon the peel of one large lemon ; stir into it sugar to your taste; when it is quite cold bottle it. If you would have it beautifully fine, filter it through a sieve or cloth; if you add a sprig of balm it will give it a pleasant flavour. To make Ham Rolls. Take a rasp, and cut thin slices of bread and butter off, as for tea; cut some very thin slices of ham, and lay one upon a slice of bread and butter, and roll it up, arid so on till you have sufficient ; lay two one way, and two another, till you have filled your dish; put some curled parsley upon your dish, and some snail horns of butter round the edge. It is a pretty dish for supper. - ■ ■ ' ..... To make Butter Scotch. Take half a pound of treacle, melt in your pan two ounces of butter, then put in a pound of coarse THE FAMILY FRIEND. 143 raw sugar, boil all together over a clear fire; when you think it is enough, take a little out and drop it upon a plate, if it hardens it is enough; grease a tin and pour it out on your tin ; cut it in pieces be¬ fore it is too hard. To make Boiled Treacle. Take a pound and a half of treacle, and two ounces of butter; boil it over a clear fire till it is enough, which you may know by dropping a little in cold water; grate the rind of a lemon and put in, pour it out intoadripping tin well greased, cut it out when it is hard. To make a Tharf Cake. Take a quarter of a stone of treacle, a pound of lard or butter, melt your lard and treacle together; take three pounds of oatmeal, a quarter of a pound of carraway seeds, half a pound of rawsugar, a little lemon peel cut fine, and a tea-cupful of brandy ; mix it up with your treacle and butter, make it up into cakes, lay them upon tins, and bake them, but not too hard. ■ ■ ' * } 2. 1 ■ ; •. iji To roast Eels or Lampreys, with a pudding in the belly. Skin your eels or lampreys, cut off the heads, take the gut out, and scrape the blood clean from J44 THE FAMILY FRIEND the bone ; then make a good forced meat of oysters or shrimps chopped small, the crumbs of half a penny loaf, a little nutmeg, and lemon peel shred fine, pepper, salt, and the yolks of two eggs ; put them in the belly of your fish, sew it up and turn it round on your dish ; put over it flour and butter, pour a little water in, your dish, and bake them in a moderate oven. When it comes out, take the gravy from under it, and skim off the fat; then strain it through a hair sieve ; add to it a spoonful of lemon pickle, two of browning, a meat spoonful ot^ walnut catsup, a glass of white wine, one an¬ chovy, and a slice of lemon ; let it boil ten minutes, thicken it with butter and flour, and send it up in a sauce boat; dish your fish, garnish it with lemon and crisp parsley. This is a pretty dish for either corner or side for a dinner. To stew Flounders , Plaice , or Soles. Half fry your fish in three ounces of butter a fine brown ; then take up your fish, and put to your butter a quart of water, and boil it slowly a quarter of an hour with two anchovies; put in your fish, and stew them gently twenty minutes ; then take your fish out, and thicken your sauce with butter and flour, give it a gentle boil, and put it through a hair sieve. Then you must have THE FAMILY FRIEND. 145 oysters, cockles, or shrimps,a little catsup, a spoon¬ ful of lemon pickle to mend your sauce; pour it hot upon your fish. Garnish with lemon and horse¬ radish. To bake Sprats. Rub your sprats with salt and pepper, and to every two pints of vinegar put one pint of red wine; dissolve a pennyworth of cochineal; lay your sprats in a deep earthen dish, pour in as much red wine, vinegar, and cochineal as will cover them; tie a paper over them, and set them in an oven all night. They will eat well and keep for some time. A good receipt to pot Lobsters. Take ten good lobsters, and when cold, pick all the meat out of the tails and claws, (be care¬ ful to take out all the black gut, and the tails, which must not be used) beat fine a quarter of an ounce of mace, half a nutmeg, and two or three cloves, with pepper and salt to season the meat; lay a layer of butter in a deep earthen pot, then put in the lobsters, and lay the rest of the butter over them, (this quantity of lobsters will take at least two pounds of butter to bake them in) tie a paper over the pot, and set them in an oven; when they 7 T THE FAMILY FRIEND. 140 are baked tender, take them out, and lay them in a dish to drain a little; then put them close down in your potting pots, but do not break them in small pieces, but lay them as whole as you can, only splitting the tails; when you have filled your pots as you choose, take a spoonful of the red butter they were baked in, pour it on the top, and set it before the fire to let it melt in; then cool it, and melt a little clarified butter, and cover them. To broil Mutton Steaks . Cut your steaks half an inch thick, when your gridiron is hot, rub it with fresh suet; lay on your steaks, keep turningthem as quick as possible; if you do not take care, the fat that drops from your steaks will smoke them ; when they are enough, put them into a hot dish; rub them well with butter, slice a shalot very thin into a spoonful of water, pour it on them with a spoonful of mushroom cat* sup and salt; serve them up hot. To broil Pork Steaks. Observe the same as for the mutton steaks, only pork requires more broiling; when they are enough, put them into a little gra vy. A little sage rubbed very fine, am) strewed over them, gives them a fine taste. THE FAMILY FRIEND. 147 To make Handilets. Take half a pound of a leg of veal, about as much ham, either boiled or raw; cut small the yolk of a hard boiled egg, and two anchovies, cut them all very small; the seasoning, mace, pepper, salt, and a raw egg; make rolls, the size of veal ofives; then take a caul of veal to wrap the rolls in ; make four, and skewer them ; rub the rolls with raw eggs, bread crumbs, and suet; set it in a quick oven for half an hour to roast; dish them up with clear good gravy, and either oysters or pickled mushrooms, and send them to table. To disguise a Leg of Veal. Lard the lap side of a leg of veal in rows, with bacon, and stuff it well with forced meat; then put it intoa large saucepan, with as much water as will cover it, and put on a close lid to keep in- the steam ; stew it gently till quite tender, then take it up, and boil the gravy in a pan to a* quart; skim off the fat, and add half a lemon, a spoonful of mushroom catsup, a little lemon pickle, and the crumb of half a penny loaf grated exceedingly fine ; boil it in your gravy till it looks thick, then add half a pint of oysters ; then take half a pint of cream, the yolks of two eggs, beat with the cream, 148 THE FAMILY FRIEND. ~~ '■ * ■ - ■ " ’ 1 ‘" V and a little flour, shake it over the fire, but do not let it boil. Garnish with fried oysters and slices of lemon. It is fit for a top dish on a large table. To stuff a Chine of Pork. Take a chine that has been hung up a week or two ; boil it half an hour ; then take it up, and make holes in it all over the lean part, one inch from another ; stuff them between the joints with shred parsley; rub it all over with the yolks of eggs; strew over it bread crumbs, baste it, and send it in a Dutcboven; when it is enough lay round it boiled brocoli and stewed spinage. Garnish with parsley. ■ • ; : V-o\0 "• ! T To make a Floating Island. Grate the yellow rind of a large lemon into a quart of cream; put in a large glass of Madeira, wine, and make it pretty sweet with loaf sugar; mill it with a chocolate mill to a strong froth; take it off as it rises, and lay it upon a sieve to drain all night; then take a deep glass dish, lay in your froth, and roll a sprig of myrtle in it to imitate snow ; stick it in a Naples biscuit, then lay all over your froth, currant jelly, cut in very thin slices ; pour over it. very fine strong calf’s foot jelly; when THE FAMILY FRIEND. 149 it grows thick lay it all over till it looks like a glass; when your dish is full to the brim let it stand till it is quite cold and stiff; then lay rock candied sweetmeats upon the top of your jelly, and sheep and swans to pick at the myrtle ; stick green sprigs in two or three places upon the top of your jelly, amongst your shapes ; it looks very pretty in the middle of your table for supper.—You must not put the shapes on your jelly till you are going to send it to the table. To make a Rocky Island. Make a little stiff flummery, and put it into five fish moulds, wet them before you put it in ; when it is stiff turn it out and gild them with gold leaf; then take a deep china jish, fill it nearly full of calf’s foot jelly, and let it stand till it is set; then lay on your fishes, and a few slices of red currant jelly, cut very thin round them ; then rasp a small French roll, and rub it over with the white of an egg, and strew all over it silver bran and glitter mixed together ; stick a sprig of myrtle in it, and put it into the middle of your dish ; beat the white of an egg up to a very high froth, then hang it on your sprig of myrtle like snow, and fill your dish to the brim with clear jelly: when you send it to the table you must put lambs and ducks upon your 150 THE FAMILY FRIEND. jelly, with either green leaves or moss under them, and their heads towards the myrtle. To spin a Silver Web for covering Sweetmeats. Take a quarter of a pound of treble refined sugar in one lump, and set it before a moderate fire, on the middle of a silver salver, or pewter plate; set it aslant, and when it begins to run clear like water to the edge of the plate or salver, have ready a tin cover or a china bowl, set it on a stool, with the mouth downward, close to your sugar, that it may not cool by carrying too far ; then with a very clean knife take up as much sirup as the point of the knife will hold, and a fine thread will come from the point, which you must draw as quick as possible backwards and forwards, and also around the mould as long as it will spin out, with the knife; be very careful you do not drop the sirup upon the web, if you do it will spoil it; then dip your knife into the sirup again, to take up more, and so keep spinning till your sugar is done, or your web is thick enough be sure you do not let the knife touch the lump on the plate that is not melted, it will make it brittle and not spin at all; if your sugar is spent before your web is done, put fresh sugar on a clean plate or salver, and not spin from the same plate again ; THE FAMILY FRIEND. 151 if you do not want the web to cover the sweetmeats immediately, set it in a deep pewter dish, and cover it with a tin cover, and lay a cloth over it to pre¬ vent the air from getting to it, and set it before the fire (it requires to be kept warm, or it will fall) when your dinner or supper is dished, have ready a plate or dish the size of your web, filled with different coloured sweetmeats, and set your web over it. It is pretty for a middle, where the dishes are few, or a corner where the number is large. ’/■■I- * Hfll. . v V j? .•" •'if -$Mt" To spin a Gold Web for covering Sweet - meats. Beat four ounces of treble refined sugar in a marble mortar, and sift it through a hair sieve 5 then put it in a silver or brass ladle, but silver makes the colour better; set it over a chafing dish of charcoal that is burnt clear, and set it on a table, and turn a tin cover or china bowl upside down upon the table; when your sugar is melted it will be of a good colour ; take your ladle off the fire, and then begin to spin it with a knife the same way as the silver web; when the sugar begins to cool and set, put it over the fire to warm and spin it as before, but do not warm it too often, as it will turn the sugar a bad colour; if you have not enough sugar, clean the ladle before you put 152 THE FAMILY FRIEND. in more, and spin it till your web is thick enough; then take it off, and set it over the sweetmeats, as you did the silver web. To preserve green Codlins that will keep all the year. Take codlins about the size of a walnut, with the stalks and a leaf or two on; put a handful of vine leaves into a brass pan of spring water, then a layer of codlins, then of vine leaves; do so till the pan is full ; cover it close that no steam can get out, and set it on a slow fire; when they are soft, take off the skins with a penknife, then put them in the same water with the vine leaves; it must be quite cold, or it will be apt to crack them ; put in a little roach allum, and set them over a slow tire till they are green, which will be in three or four hours; then take them out and lay them on a sieve to drain.—Make a good sirup, and give them a gentle boil once a day for three days; then put them in small jars; put brandy papers over them, and keep them for use. To preserve Sprigs Green. Gather the sprigs of mustard when it is going to seed ; put them in a pan of spring water with a great many vine leaves under and over them ; THE FAMILY FRIEND. 153 put to them one ounce of roach allum, set it over a gentle fire; when it is hot take it off and let it stand till it is quite cold ; then cover it very close, and hang it a great height over a slow fire ; when they are green take out the sprigs, and lay them on a sieve to drain ; then make a good sirup, and boil your sprigs in it once a day for three days; put them in, and keep them in for use. They are very pretty to stick in the middle ofa preserved orange, or garnish a set of salvers. You may preserve green pease when they are just come into pod. To dress Macaroni with Parmesan Cheese. Boil four ounces of macaroni till it is quite tender, and lay it on a sieve to dry ; then put it in a tossing pan, with about a gill of good cream, and a lump of butter rolled in flour; boil it five minutes; pour it on a plate; lay ail over it Parmesan cheese, toasted ; send it to the table on a water plate, for it soon grows cold. Orange Cream. lake the juice of four Seville oranges, and the out-rind of one, pared exceeding fine; put them into a tossing-pan, with one pint of water, and eight ounces of sugar; beat tire whites of five eggs; 7 u ( J54 THE FAMILY FRIEND. set it over the fire, and stir it one way till it grows thick and white; then strain it through a gauze sieve; stir it till it is cold ; then beat the yolks of five eggs exceeding well; put them into your toss¬ ing pan, with the cream ; stir it over a very slow fire till it is ready to boil; put it in a basin to cool, and stir it till it is quite cold ; then put it into jelly glasses; send it in upon a salver, with whips and jellies. To make Ox Cheek Soup. First break the bones of an ox cheek, and wash it in many waters; then lay it in warm water, and throw in a little salt to fetch out the slime ; wash it very well; then take a large stew pan, and put two ounces of butter at the bottom; then lay the flesh side of the cheek down, adding to it half a pound, of ham cut in slices, and four heads of ce¬ lery, pull ofF the leaves, wash the heads clean, and cut them in with three large onions, two carrots, and one parsnip sliced, a few beets cut small, and three blades of mace; set it over a slow fire half an hour; put to it six quarts of water, and let it stew till it is reduced to two quarts; take the meat out carefully ; then strain it through a sieve, and put in the white part of two heads of celery, and browning to make it a fine colour: take two ounces of vermicelli, give it a scald in the soup, atid put THE FAMILY FlflENQ. 156 " ' ' \ the top of a French roll in the middle of the tureen, and serve it upon a little toasted bread eut in sljpe*; if you choose to pour it on the bread you may. To make white Pease Soup. To four or five pounds of beef and six quarts of water, put in a little-salt^ when it boils skim it, and putin two carrots, three whole onions, a little thyme, with two heads of celery, and three quarts of old green pease; boil them till the meat is quite tender; then strain it through a hair sieve, and rub the pulp of tire pease through the sieve; split the blanched part of three cos lettuces into four quarters, and cut them about one inch long, with a little mint cut small; then put half a pound of butter into a stew pan that will hold your soup ; put the lettuce and mint into the butter, with a leek sliced very thin, and a pint of green pease; stew them a quarter of an hour, and keep shaking them about; then put in a little of the soup, and stew them an hour longer then put in your soup, and as much thick cream as will make it white ; keep stirring it till it boils; fry a French roll in butter a little crisp; put it in the bottom of a tureen, and pour your soup over it* To drew « salt Cod. V,, . i iT , ' r Steep your salt fish in water ail night, with ( 156 THE FAMILY FRIEND. a glass of vinegar, it will fetch out the salt, and make it eat like fresh fish ; the next day boil it; when it is enough cut it into squares upon your dish ; then pour egg sauce over it, and a few pota¬ toes made rich and smooth with butter and cream ; send it to table upon a water plate, for it will soon go cold. To make rolled Salmon. Take a side of salmon when split, and the bone taken out and scalded ; strew' over the inside pep¬ per and salt, a few chopped oysters, parsley, and crumbs of bread; roll it up tight, and put it into a deep pot, and bake it in a quick oven ; have a little fennel sauce to pour over it, and send up a boat of caper sauce. Garnish with lemon. To dress Carp the best way, and the sauce. Kill your carp and save all the blood ; scale and clean them very well; have ready some nice Tich gravy, made of beef and mutton, seasoned with pepper, salt, mace, and onions; strain it off before you stew your fish in it ; boil your carp first, before you stew it in the gravy ; be careful you do not boil them too much before you put in the carp ; then let it stew on a slow fire a quarter pf an hour; thicken the sauce with a large 'lump r THE FAMILY FRIEND. 157 ofbutter rolled in flour; garnish your dish with fried oysters, fried toast cut three-corner ways, pieces of lemon, scraped horseradish, and the roe of the carp cut in pieces, some fried and the rest boiled ;squeeze the juice of a lemon into the sauce just before you send it up ; take care to dish it up handsomely, and very hot. - ' , ti . To dress a Saddle of Mutton. Take off* the skin and skewer it on again ; put a paper over it; when enough, take off the paper and skin, and roast it a cinnamon brown ; make the dish very hot, and pour a little brown gravy over it; garnish with horseradish, and send it up with a plate of currant jelly, and a little red wine made hot. To make a Porcupine of the Flat Ribs of Beef. Bone the flat ribs, and beat it very well with a paste pin, then rub it over with the yelk of an egg; strew it over with bread crumbs, parsley, leeks, sweet marjoram, lemon peel shred fine, nutmeg, pepper, and. salt; roll it up very close, and bind it hard ; lard it across with bacon, then a row of cold boiled tongue, a third row of pickled cucumbers, and a fourth of lemon peel; do it all 158 THE FAMILV FRIEND. over in rows as above, till it is larded all round ; it will look like red, white, green, and yellow dices ; then split it, and put it in a deep pot, with a pint of water, lay over it a caul of veal to keep it from scorching; tie it down with strong paper, and send it to the oven ; when it comes out skim off the fat, strain your gravy into a saucepan, add to it two spoonful of red wine, the same of browning, one of ( mushroom catsup, half a lemon, and thicken it with a lump of butter rolled in flour, dish up the meat, pour the gravy on the dish, and lay round forced meat balls. Garnish with horseradish, and serve it up. To make a Hedgehog. Take a French roll, rasp it, and put it in a deep pot or basin, pour on it as much sherry as will cover the roll, sweeten your wine, and keep turning the roll that it may be steeped all over ; it should be put in the wine over night, or it will not be suf¬ ficiently softened ; take some sweet almonds, cut them in long thin slices ; take the roll and lay it on the dish that you intend to send it to the table, upon, stick it all over with the almonds, then pour over it a good custard, and send it up. It is a pretty middle dish for supper. To steyp a Round of Reef. Take a fine round of beef; .skewer the fat THE FAMILY FRIEND. 159 round as far as you can, season it well over with cayenne, nutmeg, mace, cloves, and a little white pepper and salt, and rub your seasoning well in ; take a long fillet, bind it very well, put it into a pot that will just hold it, put a pint of water in the pot, lay over it a little marrow, tie the pot close up with strong paper, and stew it in a night oven very well. Before you send it to table cut a thin slice off the top. Garnish with horseradish. To force a Round of Beef. Take a good round of beef, and rub it over a quarter of an hour with two ounces of saltpetre, the same of bay salt, half a pound of brown sugar, and a pound of common salt, let it be in it for ten or twelve days, turn it once every day in the brine, then wash it well, and make holes in it with a pen¬ knife about an inch one from another, and fill one hole with shred parsley, a second with fat pork cut in small pieces, a third with bread crumbs, beef marrow, a little mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, mixed together,-then parsley, and so on till you have filled all the holes ; then wrap your beef in a doth, bind it with a fillet, and boil it four hours ; when it is cold bind it over again, and cut a thin slice off before you send it to table. Garnish with parsley and red cabbage. THE FAMILY FRIEND 1G0 To boil a Tongue. If your tongue be a dry one, steep it in water all night, and boil it three hours; if you. would have it eat hot, stick it with cloves ; rub it over with the yolk of an egg; strew over it bread crumbs; baste it with butter, and set it before the fire till it is a light brown. When you dish it up pour a little brown gravy, or red wine sauce over it, mixed the same way as for venison ; lay slices of currant jelly round it. To boil a Ham. Steep your ham all night in water; if it be of a ihiddle size it will take three hours boiling, and a small one two and a half; when you take it up, pull off the skin, and rub it all over with an egg ; strew on bread crumbs, baste it with butter, and set it before the fire till it is a light brown ; if it be to eat hot, garnish with carrots, and serve it up. To stew Spinage. Wash your spinage well in several waters; put it in a cullender; have ready a large pan of boiling water, and put in a handful of salt; then put in your spinage, and let it boil two minutes, it will take off the earthy taste; then put it into a sieve, and drain it well; put a quarter of a pound of butter THE FAMILY FRIEND. 161 1 into a tossing-pan, and put in your spinage, keep turning and chopping it with a knife till it be quite dry and green; lay it upon a plate, and press it with another; cut it in the shape of sippets or diamonds; pour round it very rich melted butter: it will eat exceeding mild, and have quite a different taste from that done in the common way. To boil Artichokes. If they are young ones, leave about one inch of the stalk ; put them in a strong salt and water for an hour or two, then put them into a pan of cold water, set them over the fire, but do not cover them up, it will take off their colour; when you dish them up put rich melted butter in small cups or pots; put them in the dish with your artichokes, and send them up. To boil Asparagus. Scrape your asparagus, and tie them in small bandies; boil them in a large pan of salt and water; before you dish them up toast some slices of white bread, and dip them in the boiling water; lay the asparagus on your toasts, pour on them very good melted butter, and serve them up hot. 7 \ X 162 THE FAMILY FRIEND To make Orange Jelly. Take half a pound of hartshorn shavings, and two quarts of spring water; let it boil till it is re¬ duced to a quart; pour it clear off, and let it stand till it is cold ; then take half a pint of spring water, the rind of three oranges pared thin, and the juice of six ; let them stand all night; strain them through a tine hair sieve; melt the jelly, pour the orange liquor to it, and sweeten to your taste with double refined sugar; put to it a blade or two ol mace, four or five cloves, half a small nutmeg, and the rind of a lemon ; beat the whites of five eggs to a froth, and mix it very well with your jelly; set it over a clear fire, and let it boil three or four minutes; then run it through a jelly bag several times till it is clear ; when you pour it into the bag, take great eare you do not shake it. To preserve Walnuts Green. Take large French walnuts, when they are a little larger than a good nutmeg, wrap every wal¬ nut in vine leaves, and tie it round with a string; then put them into a large quantity of salt and wa¬ ter, and let them lie for three days; then put them in fresh salt and water, and let them lie in that three days longer; take them out, and lay a large quantity of vine leaves in the bottom of the pan, then a layer of walnuts, then vine leaves; do so THE FAMILY FIUEND. 163 till your pan is full, but take care the walnuts do not touch each other; fill your pan with hard water, put in a little roach ailuin, and set it over the fire till the water is very hot, but not to let it boil; take it off, and let them stand in the water till it isquite cold, then set them over the fire again ; when they are green take the pan off the fire, and when the wafer is quite cold take out the walnuts ; lay them on a sieve a good distance from each other, have ready a thin sirup boiled and skimmed ; when it is pretty cool put in your walnuts, let them stand all night, the next day give them several scalds, but do not let them boil; keep the preserving pan close covered, and when they look bright and a pretty colour, have ready made a rich sirup of fine loaf sugar, with a few slices of ginger, and two or three blades of mace ; scald your walnuts in it, put them in small jars, with paper dipped in brandy over them ; tie them down with bladders, and keep them for use. To candy Angelica, Take it when young, cut it in lengths, cover it close, and boil it till it is tender, peel it and put it in again, let it simmer and boil till it is green ; then take it up and dry it with a cloth ; to every pound of stalks put a pound of sugar; put your stalks into an earthen pan, beat the sugar and strew over them ; let it stand two days; then boil it 164 THE FAMILY FRIEND. till it is clear and green; put it in a cullender to drain ;beat a pound of sugar to powder, and strew it on your angelica, as before; lay it on plates to dry, and set them in the oven after the pies are drawn. Three pounds and a half of sugar is enough to four pounds of stalks; To make an Almond Pudding. When you make lemon cheesecakes, save a tea cupful out; take the crumb of a penny loaf and steep it in cream ; one ounce of sweet almonds, two eggs, and a little lump sugar to sweeten it. Mix the lemon well with these ingredients before you put it in the cloth; boil it about one hour. Cut some ribbon dumplings,.and place them round it on the dish. This makes a most excellent pudding. To rejine and cure sour Malt Liquor. To cure a hogshead of sour ale, take two ounces of isinglass, dissolve it in two quarts of new ale, and set it before the fire; then take two pounds of coarse brown sugar, and boil jt in a quart of new wort, a quarter of an hour ; then put it in a pail, with two gallons of new ale out of the clear; whisk the above ingredients very well for an hour or more, till it be all of a white froth; beat very well one pound of plaister of Paris, and put it into your THE FAMILY FRIEND 165 cask, with the fermentation, and whisk it very well for half an hour, witli a strong hand, until you have brought all the sediments from the bottom of your cask, and it will look white ; if your cask be not full fill it with new ale, and the fermentation will have this good effect: The acid part of the ale will arise to the top immediately, and issue out of the bung hole, but if the cask be not full, the part that should fiy out will continue in and weaken the body of the ale; be sure you do not fail filling up your cask four or five times a day until it has done work-- ing, and all the sourness or white muddy part is gone; when it begins to look like new tunned ale, put in a large handful of spent hops, close it up, and let it stand six weeks; if it be not fine, and cream like bottled ale, let it stay a month longer, and it will drink brisk like bottled ale; this is a very good method, and has been used to ale that has been both white and sour, and never known to fail. If you have malt which you suspect is not good, save out two gallons of wort, and a few hours before you want it add to it half a pint of barm, and when you have tunned your drink into the barrel, and it has quite done working, make the above fermentation ; when you have put it in the barrel whisk it very well for half an hour, and it will set your ale on working afresh, and when the two gal¬ lons have done working white over keep filling up your barrel with it four or five times a day; let it { 166 THE FAMILY FRIEND. work four or five days ; when it has done working close it up: If the malt has got any bad taste, or be in a fluid nature, this will take it off. CONFECTIONARY. The first process in the art of confectionary is that of clarifying sugars, which requires great care and attention, and must be done according to the following directions: Break the white of an egg into your preserving pan, put to it four quarts of water, and beat it up to a froth with a whisk. Then put in twelve pounds of sugar, mix all together, and set it over the fire. When it boils put in a little cold water, and in this manner proceed as many times as may be neces¬ sary till the scum appears thick on the top; then remove it from the fire, when it is settled take off the scum, and pass it through a straining bag. If the sugar should not appear very fine, give it ano¬ ther boil before you strain ity—This is the first ope¬ ration, having done which you may proceed to clarify your sugar to either of the followingdegrees: 1. Smooth or Candy Sugar .—After having gone through the first process, as before directed, put what quantity you may have occasion for over the fire, and let it boil till it is smooth. This you may know by dipping your skimmer into the sugar THE FAMILY FRIEND. 167 and then touching it between your fore-finger and thumb, and immediately on opening them, you will observe a small thread drawn between, which will immediately break, and remain in a drop on your thumb, which will be a sign of its being in some degree of smoothness. Then give it another boil¬ ing, and it will draw into a larger string, when it will have acquired the first degree, from whence we proceed to 2. Bloom Sugar .—In this degree of refining sugar, you must boil it longer than in the former procees, and then dip your skimmer in, shaking off what sugar you can into the pan; then blow with your mouth strongly through the holes, and if cer¬ tain bladders, or bubbles, go through, it will be a proof that it has acquired the second degree. Feather Sugar .—To prove this degree, dip the skimmer into the sugar when it has boiled longer than in the former degrees. When you have so done, first shake it over the pan, then give it a sudden flirt behind you, and if it is enough the sugar will fly off like feathers. 4. Crackled Sugar .—Boil your sugar longer than in the preceding degree; then dip a stick into it, and immediately put it into a pan of cold water, which you must have by you for that purpose. Draw off the sugar that hangs to the stick into the water, and if it becomes hard, and snaps, it has acquired the proper degree; but if otherwise, y.ou must 168 THE FAMILY FRIEND. boil it again till it answers that trial. Be particu¬ larly careful that the water you use for this pur¬ pose is perfectly cold, otherwise you will be greatly deceived. 5. Carmel Sugar .—To obtain the last degree your sugar must boil longer than in any of the for¬ mer operations. You must prove it by dipping a stick first into the sugar, and then into cold water ; but this you must observe, that when it comes to the carmel height, it will, the moment it touches the water, snap like glass, which is the highest and last degree of refining sugar. When you boil this, take care that your fire is not too fierce, lest it should, by flaming up the sides of the pan, cause the sugar to burn, discolour it, and thereby destroy all your labour. Having thus described the various degrees of refining sugar, I shall now point out the method of preparing those colours with which they may be tinged, according to fancy, and the different pur¬ poses for which they are to be used. Red Colour. To make this colour, boil an ounce of cochineal in half a pint of water, for about five minutes; then add half an ounce of cream of tartar, and half an ounce of pounded allum, and boil the whole on a slow fire about as long again. In order to know if it is done, dip a pen into it, write on white paper, THE FAMILY FRIEND. 169 and ifit shews the colour clear it is sufficient. Then take it off the fire, add two ounces of sugar, and let it settle ; pour it clear off, and keep it in a bot¬ tle well stopped for use. Blue Colour. This colour is only for present use, and must be made thus : Put a little warm water in a plate, and rub an indigo stone in it till the colour is come to the tint you would have; the more you rub it the higher the colour will be. Yellow Colour. This is done by pouring a little water into a plate, and rubbing it with a little gamboge. It may also be done with yellow lily, thus : Take the heart of the flower, in fuse the colour with milk-warm water, and preserve it in a bottle well stopped. Green Colour. Trim the leaves of some spinage, boil them about half a minute in a little water, then strain it clear off, and it will be fit for use. Any alteration may be made in these colours by mixing to what shade you think proper ; but on these occasions taste and fancy must be your guide. 8 Y 170 THE FAMILY FRIEND Devices in Sugar. Steep gum-tragacanth in rose-water, and with some double-refined sugar make it into a paste; colour it to your fancy, and make up your devices in such forms as you may think proper: you may have moulds made in various shapes for this pur¬ pose, and your devices will be pretty ornaments placed on the top of iced cakes. Sugar of Roses in various figures. Chip off the white part of some rose buds, and dry them in the sun : pound an ounce of them very fine; then take a pound of loaf sugar, wet it in some rose-water, and boil it to a candy height; then put in your powder of roses, and the juice of a lemon; mix all well together, put it on a pie-plate, and cut it into lozenges, or make it into any kind of shapes or figures your fancy may draw. If you want to use them as ornaments for a dessert, you may gild or colour them to your taste. Drying and Candying. Before you proceed to dry and candy any kind of fruit, let it be first preserved, and so dried in a stove or before the fire, that all the sirup may be totally extracted. When you have boiled your sugar to the candy height, dip in the fruit, and lay them on dishes in your stove to dry; then put them THE FAMILY FRIEND 171 into boxes and keep them in a place where they cannot receive injury either from heat or damp. Dried Apricots. Take as many apricots as will amount to about a pound weight, pare and stone them, and put them into a preserving-pan. Pound and sift half a pound of double-refined sugar, strew a little among them, and lay the rest over them. When they have been twenty-four hours in this state, turn them three or four times in the sirup, and then boil them pretty quick till they look clear. When they are cold take them out', and lay them on glasses; then put them into a stove, and turn them the first day every half hour, the second day every hour, and so on till they are perfectly dry. Put them into boxes covered, and set them by for use. Dried Peaches. Pare and stone some of the finest peaches you can get; then put them into a saucepan of boiling water, let them boil till they are tender, and then lay them on a sieve to drain. Put them again in¬ to the same saucepan, and cover them with their own weight in sugar. Let them lie two or three hours, and then boil them till they are clear, and the sirup pretty thick. Cover them close, and let u 172 THE FAMILY FRIEND. them stand all night; scald them well, and then take them off to cool; when they are quite cold set them on again till they are thoroughly-hot, and con¬ tinue this for three or four days; then lay them on plates, and turn them every day till they are quite cold. Candied Cassia. Take as much of the powder of brown cassia as will I ie upon a half-crown, with as much musk and ambergris as you think proper; pound them both well together; then take a quarter of a pound of sugar, boil it to a candy height, put in your pow¬ der, and mix it well together; pour it into saucers, which must be buttered very thin, and when it is cold it will slip out. Lemon and Orange Peels candied. Cut your lemons and oranges long-ways, take out all the pulp, and put the rinds into a pretty strong salt and hard water for six days ; then boil them in a large quantity of spring water till they are fender ; take them out, and lay them on a hair sieve to drain ; then make a thin sirup of fine loaf sugar, a pound to a quart of water; put in your peels, and boil them half an hour, or till they look clear, and have ready a thick sirup made of fine loaf sugar, with as much water as will dissolve THE FAMILY FRIEND. 173 it; put in your peels, and boil them over a slow fire till you see the sirup candy about the pan and peels ; then take them out, and grate fine sugar all over them ; lay them on a hair sieve to drain, and set them in a stove or before the fire to dry. Dried Damsons. Gather your damsons when they are full ripe, spread them on a coarse cloth, and set them in a very cool oven ; let them stand a day or two, and if they are not then properly dried, put them in for a day or two longer; then take them out, lay them in a dry place, and they will eat like fresh plums, though even in the midst of winter. Orange Chips. Get some of the best Seville oranges you can, pare them at least about a quarter of an inch broad, and if you can keep the parings whole they will have a pretty effect. When you have pared as many as you intend, put tlrem into salt and spring water for a day or two; then boil them in a large quantity of spring water till they are ten¬ der, and drain them on a sieve. Have ready a thin sirup made of a quart of water and a pound of sugar. Boil them a few at a time to keep them 174 THE FAMILY FRIEND. from breaking, till they look clear. Then put them into a sirup made of fine loaf sugar, with as much water as will dissolve it, and boil them to a candy height. When you take them up, lay them on a sieve, and grate double-refined sugar over them; then put them in a stove or before the fire to d ry. Orange Marmalade. Get the clearest Seville oranges you can, cut them in two, take out all the pulp and juice into a basin, and pick all the skins and seeds out of it. Boil the rinds in hard water till they are tender, and change the water two or three times while they are boiling; then pound them in a marble mortar, and add to it the juice and pulp; then put them in the preserving-pan, with double its weight of loaf sugar, and set it over a slow fire; boil it rather more than half an hour, put it into pots, cover it with brandy paper, and tie it close down. Transparent Marmalade . Cut very pale Seville oranges into quarters, take out the pulp, put it into a basin, and pick out the skins and seeds ; put the peels into a little salt and water, and let them stand all night ; then boil them in a good quantity of spring water till they are tender, cut them in very thin slices, and put THE FAMILY FRIEND 175 them to the pulp. To every pound of marmalade put a pound and a half of double-refined sugar, finely beaten, and boil them together gently for twenty minutes; but if not clear and transparent in that time, boil it five or six minutes longer. Keep stirring it gently all the time, and take care you do not break the slices. When it is cold, put it into jelly or sweetmeat glasses, and tie them down tight with brandy paper, and a bladder over them. Burnt Almonds Take two pounds of almonds, and put them into a stewpan, with the same r quantity of sugar and a pint of water; set them over a clear cool fire, and let them boil till you find the almonds crack ; then take them off, and stir them about till they are quite dry; put them in a wire sieve, and«iTt all the sugar from them ; put the sugar into the pan again with a little water, and give it a boil; then put four spoonful of scraped cochineal to the sugar to colour it; put the almonds into the pan, and keep stirring them over the fire till they are quite dry. Then put them into a large glass, and they will keep all the year. Raspberry Paste. Mash a quart of raspberries, strain one half 176 THE FAMILY FRIEND. and put the juice to the other half. Boil them a quarter of an hour ; put to them a pint of red cur¬ rant juice, and let them boil altogether, till your raspberries are enough ; then put a pound and a half of double-refined sugar into a pan, with as much water as will dissolve it, and boil it to a sugar again ; put in your raspberries and juice, give them a scald, and pour it into glasses or plates; then put them into a stove and turn them at times till they are thoroughly dry. Currant Paste. Currant paste may be either red or white, accord¬ ing to the colour of the currants you use. Strip your currants, put a little juice to them to keep them from burning, boil them well, and rub them through a hair sieve ; then boil it a quarter of an hour, and to a pint of juice put a pound and a half of double-refined sugar pounded and sifted ; shake in your sugar, and when it is melted pour it on plates. Dry it in the same manner as the raspberry paste, and turn it into any form you like best. Gooseberry Paste. Take some full grown red gooseberries, just on the turn for ripening, cut them in halves, and pick out all the seeds. Have ready a pint of currant juice, and boil your gooseberries in it till THE FAMILY FRIEND 177 they are tender. Put a pound and a half of dou¬ ble-refined sugar into your pan, with as much wa¬ ter as will dissolve it, and boil it to a sugar again. Then put all together,and make it scalding hot, but do not let it boil; pour it info your plates or glasses, and dry it as before directed. Quince Marmalade. These must likewise be full ripe for the purpose of making marmalade. Pare them and cut them into quarters; then take out the cores, and put the fruit into a saucepan; cover them with parings, and nearly fill the saucepan with spring water; cover it close, and let them stew over a slow fire till they are soft and of a pink colour; then pick out the quinces from the parings, and beat them to a pulp in a marble mortar. Take their weight of fine loaf sugar, put as much water to it as will dis¬ solve it, and boil and skim it well; then put in your quinces, and boil them gently three quarters of an hour, stirring them all the time. When it is cold, put it into flat pots, tie it down close, and set it by 178 THE FAMILY FRIEND. THE ART OF CARVING. NOTHING can be more disagreeable to a person who is placed at the head of a table, and whose business it is to pay the necessary honours to guests invited, than to be defective in not being properly able to carve the different articles provided. From the want of knowledge in this particular, it must naturally become no less painful to the person who undertakes the task, than uncomfortable to those who are waiting for the compliment of being served. Abilities and dexterity in this art are striking qua¬ lifications in the eyes of every company, and are material instruments of forming the necessary and polite graces of the table. The instructions here laid down by words are materially enlivened by the representations of the respective articles described, so that the young and inexperienced may, by proper attention to the de¬ scription and reference to the plates, soon make themselves proficients in this useful and polite art. We shall commence the subject with describ¬ ing the method of carving HALF ft CALF'S HEAD THE FAMILY FRIEND 179 A Roast Pawl.—See Plate 1st. IN this plate the fowl is placed in the centre, and is represented as lying on its side, with one of the legs, wings, and neck-bone taken off. Whether the fowl is roasted or boiled, it must be cut up in the same manner. A roasted fowl is sent to table nearly in the same manner as a phea¬ sant, excepting that the pheasant has the head tucked under one of the wings, whereas the fowl has the head cut off before it is dressed. In a boiled fowl (which is represented in the same plate) the legs are bent inwards, and tucked into the belly; but, previous to its being sent to table, the skewers are withdrawn. The most convenient method of cutting up a fowl is, to lay it on your plate, and, as you separate the joints, in the lines a, b, d, put them into the dish. The legs, wings, and merry-thought being removed, the next thing is to cut off the neck-bone. This is done by putting in the knife at g, and pass¬ ing under the long broad part of the bone in the line g , 6, then lifting it up, and breaking off the end of the shorter part of the bone, which cleaves to the breast-bone. All the parts being thus sepa¬ rated from the carcase, divide the breast from the back, by cutting through the tender ribs on each side, from the neck quite down to the vent or tail. Then lay the back upwards on your plate, fix your u 180 THE FAMILY FRIEND. fork under the rump, and laying the edge of your knife in the line b , e, c, and pressing it down, lift up the tail of the lower part of the back, and it will readily divide with the help of your knife in the line b, e, c. In the next place, lay the lower part of the back upwards on your plate, with the rump from you, and cut off the side-bones, (or sidesmen as they are generally called,) by forcing the knife through the rump bone, in the line e, y*, when your fowl will be completely cut up. Boiled Fowl.—See Plate 1st. We have before observed, that a boiled fowl is cut up in the same manner as one roasted. In the representation of this the fowl is complete, whereas in the part of the other it is in part dissected. Those parts which are generally considered as the most prime are the wings, breast, and merry¬ thought, and next to these the neck-bones and sidesmen. The legs of boiled fowls are more ten¬ der than those that are roasted ; but every part of a chicken is good and juicy. As the thigh-bones of a chicken are very tender, and easily broken with the teeth, the gristles and marrow render them very delicate. . In the boiled fowl the leg should be separated from the drum-stick, at the joint, which is easily done, if the knife is introduced in the hol¬ low, and the thigh-bone turned back from the leg- bone. THE FAMILY FRIEND. 181 Partridge.—See Plate Is#. The partridge is here represented as just taken from the spit; but before it is served up the skewers must be withdrawn. It is cut in the same manner as a fowl. The wings must be taken off in the lines a, b, and the merry-thought in the line c, d. The prime parts of a partridge are the wings, breast, and merry-thought. The wing is considered as the best, and the tip of it reckoned the most delicate morsel of the whole. Pigeons.—See Plate Is#. Here are the representations of two, the one with the back uppermost, and the other with the breast. That with the back uppermost is marked No. 1, and that with the breast No. 2. Pigeons are sometimes cut up in the same manner as chickens. But as the lower part, with the thigh, is in general most preferred, and as, from its small size, half of one is not too much for most appetites, they are seldom carved now otherwise than by fix¬ ing the fork at the point a, entering the knife just before it, and dividing the pigeon into two, cutting away in the lines a, b, and a, c, No. 1, at the same time bringing the knife out at the back, in the di¬ rection a, 6, and a, a. No. 2. A Goose .— See Plate Is/. Let the neck end lay before you, and begin by 182 THE FAMILY FRIEND. cutting two or three long slices on each side of the breast, in the lines a, b, quite to the bone. Cut these slices from the bone, then take off the leg, turning the goose upon one side, putting the fork through the small end of the leg-bone, and pressing it close to the body, which, when the knife has en¬ tered at d, will easily raise the joint. Then pass the knife under the leg, in the direction d, e. If the leg hangs to the carcase at the joint e, turn it back with the fork, and if the goose is young it will easily separate. Having removed the leg, proceed to take off the wing, by passing the fork through the small end of the pinion, pressing it close to the body, and entering the knife at the notch c, and passing it under the wing in the direction <*, d. This is a very nice thing to hit, and can only be acquired by practice. When you have taken off the leg and wing on one side, do the same on the other. Then cut off the apron in the line/, e, g; having done which take off the merry-thought in the line*, h. All other parts are to be taken off in the same manner as directed for the fowl. A goose is seldom quite dissected, unless the company is very large, in which case the above method must be pursued. The parts of a goose most esteemed are the slices from the breast, the fleshy part of the w ing, (which may be divided from the pinion,) the thigh bone, (or drum-stick, as it is called.) the pinion, and THE FAMILY FRIEND 183 the side bones. If sage and onions are put into the body of the goose (which is by most approved of) when you have cut off the limbs, draw it out with a spoon at the place from whence the apron is taken, and mix it with the gravy, which should first be poured boiling hot into the body of the goose. Some people are particularly fond of the rump, which, after being nicked with a knife, is peppered and salted, and then broiled till it is of a nice light brown ; and this is distinguished by the epithet of a devil. The same is likewise done by the rump of a turkey. A Hare.—See Plate 1st. There are two ways of cutting up a hare, but the best and readiest way is, to put the point of the knife under the shoulder at g, and cut through all the way down the rump, on one side of the back¬ bone in the line g, h. When you have done this, qut it in the same manner on the other side, at an equal distance from the back-bone, by which means the body will be nearly divided into three. You may now cut the back through the spine or back¬ bone, into several small pieces, more or less, in the lines t, k. The back is by far the tenderest part, fullest of gravy, and esteemed the most delicate. When you help a person to a part of the back, you must give with it a spoonful of pudding, with which 184 THE FAMILY FRIEND. the belly is stuffed, below the letter k , and which may now be easily got at. Having separated the legs <£rom the back-bone, they are easily cut from the belly. The flesh of the leg is next in estimation to the back ; but the meat is closer, firmer, and less juicy. The shoulders must be cut oft'in the circular dotted line e,f, g. In a large hare a whole leg is too much to be given to any person atone time, it should therefore be divided. The best part of the leg is the fleshy part of the thigh at h, which should be cut off. 8ome people are fond of the head, brains, and bloody part of the neck. But before you begin to dissect the head, cut off the ears at the roots, as many people are fond of them when they are roasted crisp. The head must then be divided in this manner: Put it on a clean pewter plate, so as to have it under hand, and turning the nose towards you hold it steady with your fork, so that it may not slip from under the knife. You must then put the point of the knife into the skull between the ears, and by forcing it down, as soon as it has made its way, the head may be easily divided into two, by forcing the knife, with some degree of strength, quite down through the nose to a. The method of cutting up a hare, as here laid down, can only be effected when the hare is young. If it is an old one the best method is to put your knife pretty close to the back*bone, and cut off the THE FAMILY FRIEND. 185 leg; but as the hip-bone will be in your way, turn the back of the hare towards you, and endeavour to hit the joint between the hip and the thigh bone. When you have separated one, cut off the other; and then cut a long narrow slice or two on each side of the back-bone, in the direction g, h. Then di¬ vide the back-bone into two, three, or more parts, passing your knife through the several joints of the back, all which, by a little attention and patience, may be readily effected. A Fore Quarter of Lamb.—'See Plate 1st. This joint is always roasted, and when it comes to table, before you can help any one, you must separate the shoulder from the breast and ribs (or what is by some called the coste) by passing the knife under, in the direction c,g,d,e. The shoul¬ der being then taken off, the juice of a lemon, or Seville orange, should be squeezed upon the part it was taken from, a littlesaltadded,and the shoulder replaced. The gristly part must then be separated from the ribs in the line f,g, and then all the pre¬ paratory business to serving will be done. The ribs are generally most esteemed, and one,two, or more, may be easily separated from the rest in the line a,6; but to those who prefer the gristly part, a piece or two may be cut off in the lines h,i, &c. If you 8 2a f 186 THE FAMILY FRIEND. should have a fore quarter of grass-lamb that runs large, the shoulder when cut off must be put upon another dish, and carved in the same manner as a shoulder of mutton. A Pig.—See Plate Is#. A pig is seldom sent whole to table, but usually eut up by the cook, who takes off the head, splits the body down the back, and garnishes the dish with the chops and ears. Before you help any one at table, first separate the shoulders from the carcase, and then the legs, according to the direction given by the dotted line c,d,e. The most delicate part of a pig is about the neck, which may be cut off in the line/, g. lhe next best parts are the ribs, which may be divided in the line a, b, &c. and the others are pieces cut from the legs and shoulders. Indeed, the bones of a pig are little else than gristle, so that it may be cut in any part without the least difficulty. It produces such a variety of delicate bits, that the fancies of most may be readily gratified. A Shoulder of Mutton.—Plate 2nd. This is a very fine joint, and by many preferred to the leg, it being very full of gravy, if properly roasted, and producing many nice bits. THE FAMILY FRIEND. 187 The figure represents it as laid in the dish with the back uppermost. When it is first cut, it should be in the hollow part of it, in the direction «, b, and the knife should be passed deep to the bone. The gravy will then run fast into the dish, the part will immediately open, and many fine slices will be readily cut from it. The prime part of the fat lies on the outer edge, and is to be cut out in thin slices in the direction e,f. If many are at table, and the hollow part cut in the line a, b, is eaten, some very good and delicate slices may be cut out on each side the ridge of the blade-bone, in the direction c, d. The line between these two dotted lines is that in the direction of which the edge, or ridge of the blade-bone lies, and cannot be cut across. A Saddle of Mutton.—Plate 2nd. This is by some called a chine of mutton, and consists of the two loins together, the back-bone running down the middle to the tail. When you Carve it you must cut a long slice in either of the fleshy parts, on the sides of the back-bone, in the direction a, b. There is seldom any great length of tail left on, but if it is sent up with the tail, many will be fond of it, and it may be easily di¬ vided into several pieces, by cutting between 188 THE FAMILY FRIEND. (he joints of the tail, which are about an inch apart. A Cod's Head.—Plate 2nd. Fish in general requires very little carving, the fleshy parts being those principally esteemed. A cod’s head and shoulders, when in season, and properly boiled, is a very genteel and hand¬ some dish. When cut, it should be done with a spoon fish*trowel, and the parts about the back¬ bone, on the shoulders, are the most firm and best. Take off a piece quite down to the bone, in the direction a, b, c, d, putting in the spoon at a, c, and with each slice of fish give a piece of the round, which lies underneath the back-bone and lines it, the meat of which is thin and a little darker coloured than the body of the fish itself; this may be got, by passing a knife or spoon underneath, in the direc¬ tion d, b. About the head are many delicate parts, some fine kernels, and a great deal of the jelly kind. The jelly part lies about the jaw-bones, and the firm parts within the head. Some are fond of the palate, and others the tongue, which likewise may be got, by putting a spoon into the mouth, in the direction of the line e. A piece of boiled Salmon.—Plate 2nd. Ihe fattest and richest part of a salmon is the THE FAMILY FRIEND 189 belly ; it is therefore customary to give to those who like both, a thin slice of each : the one cut out of the belly, in the direction c, d; the other out of the back, in the line a, b. Most people who are fond of salmon generally like the skin, so that the slices must be cut thin with the skin on. A- Mackerel.—Plate 2nd. Slit the fish all along the back, in the line a, e, b, and take off the whole side as far as the line b, c, not too near the head, as the meat above the gills is generally black and ill flavoured. The roe of a male fish is soft, but that of the female is hard, and full of small eggs. Haifa Calf’s Head.—Plate 2nd. In carving this, begin by cutting the flesh quite along the cheek bone, in the direction c, b, from whence several handsome slices may be taken. In the fleshy part, at the end of the jaw-bone, lies part of the throat sweet-bread, which may be cut into in the line c, d, and which is esteemed the best part in the head. Many like the eye, which is to be cut from its socket a, by forcing the point of the knife down to the bottom of one edge of the socket, and cutting quite round, keeping the point of the knife slanting towards five middle, so as to THE FAMILY FRIEND. 190 separate the meat from the bone. The palate is also reckoned by some very delicate ; it lays on the under-side of the roof of the mouth ; it is a wrinkled, white, thick skin, and may be easily separated from the bone with a knife, by raising the head with your left hand. There are also some nice tender bits on the under-side, covering the under jaw, and some delicate gristly fat to be pared off about the ear, g. In the upper jaw is the large tooth behind, which having several cells, and being full of gravy, is called the sweet tooth ; but its delicacv is more in the name than any thing else. When you serve any person with a slice of the head, you must in¬ quire whether they choose to have any of the tongue and brains, which are generally served up in a se¬ parate dish. A slice from the thick part of the tongue, near the root, is the best. A Leg of Mutton.—Plate 2nd. A leg of wether mutton, which is by far the best flavoured, may be readily known by the ker¬ nel, or little round lump of fat, just above the letters, a, e. This joint, whether boiled or roasted, is carved in the same manner. The person who does this business should turn the joint towards him, as it here lies, the shank to the left hand; then holding it steady with his fork, he should cut it THE FAMILY FRIEND. 191 deep on the fleshy part, in the hoiiow of the thigh, quite to the bone, in the direction a, b. Then will he cut it right through the kernel of fat called the pope's eye, of which many are particularly fond. The most juicy parts of the leg are in the thick part of it, from the line a, b, upwards, towards e; but many prefer the drier part about the shank or knuckle, which some call the venison part, from its eating so short; but this is certainly the coarsest part of the joint. The fat lies chiefly on the ridges e, e, and is to be cut in the direction e,f. In order to cut down what is by some called the cramp-bone, and by others the gentleman’s bone, you must take hold of the shank-bone with your left hand, and cutting down to the thigh-bone at the point d, then passing the knife under the cramp-bone, in the direction d, c, it may easily be cut out. J92 THE FAMILY FRIEND. Supplement. Directions for making different kinds of Dread. IN the execution of this business, one very material consideration is, the proper construction of your oven, which should be built round, and not lower from the roof than twenty inches, nor higher than twenty-four inches. The mouth should be small, with an iron door to shut quite close; by which means less tire will be required, it will heat quicker than a long and high-roofed oven, and bake every thing better. To make Dread the London way. Put a bushel of good flour, ground about five or six weeks, into one end of your trough, and make a hole in the middle. Take nine quarts of warm water, (called by the bakers liquor) and mix it with one quart of good yeast; put it into your flour, and stir it well with your hands till it is tough. -Let it stay till it rises as high as it will go, which will be in about an hour and twenty minutes. Be careful to watch it when it comes to its height, and do not let it fall. Then make up your dough with o THE FAMILY FRIEND. ' 193 eight quarts more of warm liquor, and one pound of salt; work it well up with your hands, and then cover it with a coarse cloth or a sack; then put your lire into the oven, and by the time it is properly heated, the dough will be ready. Then make your loaves of about five pounds each, sweep out your oven clean, put in your loaves, shut your oven up close, and two hours and a half will bake them. Remember that in summer time your liquor be just blood-warm; in winter a little warmer; and in bard frosty weather as hot as you can bear your hand in it, but not so hot as to scald the yeast, for should that be the case the whole batch of bread will be spoiled. A larger or a smaller quantity may be made in proportion to the rules here laid down. To make Leaven Bread. Take a lump of dough, about two pounds of your last baking, which has been made with yeast, keep it in a wooden vessel, and cover it well with flour. The night before you intend to bake, put this, (which is your leaven) into a peck of flour, and work them well together with warm liquor. Let it lie in a dry wooden vessel, well covered with a linen cloth, a blanket over the cloth, and keep it in a warm place. • This dough, kept warm, will rise again next morning, and will be sufficient to 9 2 b 294 THE FAMILY FRIEND. mix with two or three bushels of flour, being worked up with warm liquor, and a pound of salt to each bushel of flour. When it is well worked, and thoroughly mixed with all the flour, let it be well covered with the linen and blanket, until you And it rise ; then knead it well, and work it up into loaves and bricks, making the loaves broad, and not so thick and high as is done for bread made with yeast. Then put them into the oven,and bake them as before directed. Always keep by you two pounds of the dough of your last baking, well covered with flour, to make leaven to serve from one baking day to another. The more leaven is put to the flour, the lighter and more spongy the bread will be; aud the fresher the leaven the sweeter it will be. To make French Bread. Lay at one end of your trough half a bushel of the best white flour, and make a hole in the middle of it. Mix a pint of good small beer yeast with three quarts of warm liquor, put it in, and mix it up well till it is tough: put a flannel over it, and let it rise as high as it will; when it is at the height take six quarts of skimmed.milk blood-warm, (the bluer the better, provided it is sweet,) and a pound of salt. Instead of working it with your hands, as you would do for English bread, put the ends of THE FAMILY FRIEND. your fingers together, ami work it over your hands till it is quite weak and ropy ; then cover it over with a flannel, put your fire into the oven, and make it very hot. Observe that when you take the dough out of the trough, you use your hands as before, or else you will not get it out till it falls, when it will be good for nothing. Lay it ou the dresser, and instead of a common knife have one made like a chopping knife to cut it with ; then make it up into bricks or rolls as you think proper. The bricks will take an hour and a half baking, and the rolls half an hour. Then draw them out, and either rasp them with a rasp, or chip them with a knife, but the former is the most convenient, and is done with the greater expedition. When you work it up with the second liquor, you may, if you please, break in two ounces of butter. To make Muffins, Put into your trough a bushel of fine white flour; then take three gallons of milk-warm liquor, and mix in a quart of mild ale, or good small beer yeast, and half a pound of salt: stir it well about for a quarter of an hour, then strain it into the floui, and mix your dough as light as you can ; let it lie one hour to rise; then with your hand roll it up, and pull it into little pieces about the size ot a walnut; roll them like a ball, and lay them on a 196 THE FAMILY FRIEND table, and as fast as you do them put a flannel over them, and be sure to keep your dough covered. When you have rolled out all your dough, begin to bake the lirst, and by that time they will be spread out in the right form. Lay them on your plate, and as the bottom side begins to change colour, turn them on the other. Be careful that the middle of your plate is not too hot; if it is, put a brick-bat or two in the middle of the fire to slacken the heat. Oat-Cakes are made the same way, only use fine sifted oatmeal instead of flour, and two gal¬ lons of water instead of three. When you pull the dough to pieces, roll them out with a good deal of flour; cover them with a piece of flannel,and they will rise to a proper thickness. If you find them too big or too little, you must roll your dough ac¬ cordingly. When you use either muffins or oat-cakes, toast them on both sides very crisp, but do not burn them; then pull them open .with your fingers, and they will look like a honey-comb. Put in as much but¬ ter as you choose ; then clap them together again, and put them before the fire. W hen you think the butter is melted, turn them, that both sides may be buttered alike, but do not touch them with a knife, either to spread the butter or cut them open, if you do they will be very heavy, When they are buttered, cut them across with a knife. THE FAMILY FRIEND 197 THE Housekeeper’s Calendar ; OR A LIST OF THE VARIOUS SEASONABLE ARTICLES For Ihe different Months in the Year. JANUARY. Meat. —Beef, mutton,house-lamb, veal, & pork. Poultry. —Pheasants, partridges, hares, rabbits, woodcocks, snipes, turkeys, capons, pullets, fowls, chickens, tame pigeons. Fish. —Carp, tench, perch, lampreys, eels, craw¬ fish, cod, soles, flounders, plaice, turbot, thornback, skate, sturgeon, smelts, whitings, lobsters, crabs, prawns, oysters. Vegetables,, fyc. —Cabbage, savoys, coleworts, sprouts,brocoli, purple and white,spinage,lettuces, cresses, mustard, rapes, radishes, turnips, tarragon, sage, parsnips, carrots, potatoes, scorzonera, skir- ries, cardoons,beets, parsley,sorrel,chervil, celery, endive, mint,cucumbers in hothouses, thyme, savo¬ ry, pot-marjoram, hyssop, salsifie, Jerusalem arti¬ chokes, asparagus, mushrooms. Fruit. —Apples, pears, nuts, almonds, services, medlars, grapes. < J98 THE FAMILY FRIEND. FEBRUARY. Meat. —Beef, house-lamb, mutton, veal, pork. Poultry , finocha, lettuces, and small sallad, chervil, sorrel, beets, thyme, and all sorts of soup herbs. THE FAMILY FRIEND. 203 Fruit. —Peaches, plums, apples, pears, grapes, walnuts, filberts, hazel nuts, medlars, quinces, la- zaroles, currants, cherries, melons, pine apples. OCTOBER. Meat. —Beef, mutton, lamb, veal, pork, doe venison. Poultry, SfC.— Geese, turkeys, pigeons, pullets, fowls,chickens, rabbits, wild ducks, teals, widgeons, woodcocks, snipes, larks, dotterels,hares,pheasants, partridges. Fish. —Dorees, halibut, bearbet, smelts, brills, gudgeons, pike, carp, tench, perch, salmon, trout, lobsters, cockles, muscles, oysters. Vegetables, Cabbages, sprouts, cauli¬ flowers, artichokes, carrots, parsnips, turnips, po¬ tatoes, skirrets, salsifie, scorzonera, leeks, shalots, garlick, rocombole, celery, endive, cardoons, cher¬ vil, finocha, chard beets, corn sal lad, lettuce, all sorts of young sallads, thyme, savory, all sorts of pot herbs. Fruit. —Peaches, grapes, figs, med lars, services, quinces, black and white bullace, walnuts, filberts, hazel nuts, pears, apples. NOVEMBER. Meat. —Beef, mutton, veal, house-lamb, doe venison. Poultry, 4’C.—Geese, turkeys, fowls, chickens, pullets, pigeons, wild ducks, teals, widgeons, woodcocks, snipes, larks, dotterels, hares, rabbits, partridges, pheasants. 204 THE FAMILY FRIEND. Fish. Gurnets, dorees, salmontrout, smelts gudgeons, lobsters, halibut, bearbet, salmon, carp pike, tench, oysters, cockles, muscles. Vegetables, &c.~ Carrots, turnips, parsnips, po¬ tatoes, skirret, salsifie, scorzonera, onions, leeks, shalois, rocombole, Jerusalem artichokes, cabbage, cauliflowers, savoys, sprouts, coleworfs, spinage,’ c iard beets, cardoons, parsley, cresses, ' endive, chervil, lettuces, all sorts of saiiad herbs, thyme and all pot herbs. Fruit.-—Pea rs, apples, bullace, chesnuts, hazel nuts, walnuts, medlars, services, grapes. DECEMBER. Meat.— Beef, mutton, veal, house-lamb, pork, doe venison. Poultry , &c.— Geese, turkeys, pullets,pigeons, capons, fowls, chickens, hares, rabbits, woodcocks, snipes, larks, wild ducks, teals, widgeons, dotte¬ rels, partridges, pheasants. Fish. Turbot, gurnets, sturgeon, halibut, bearbet, smelts, cod, codlings, soles, carp, gud¬ geons, eels, cockles, muscles, oysters, dorees. egetables, Cabbage, savoys, brocoli, pur¬ ple and white, carrots, parsnips, turnips, lettuces, cresses, small sallad, potatoes, skirrets, scorzonera, sals.be, leeks, onions, shalots, cardoons, forced as¬ paragus, garlic, rocombole, celery, endive, beets, spmage, parsley, thyme, and all sorts of pot herbs. Fruit Pears, apples, medlars, services, ches- nuts, walnuts, hazel nuts, grapes. gjnticy. — Q 0 O 0 @ O <9 0 9 M Almond soup .... Apple Pudding .... Almond Cake • • Apricotr-, to preserve Artichoke Bottoms, to dry Artichokes, to boil Almond Icing, to make Ditto Posset, do. Ditto Pudding, do. Ale, to mull Asparagus, to boil Angelica, to candy Beef Alamode, to make Ditto Round, to stew Ditto Olives Ditto Round, to force Ditto Steaks, to broil Ditto Fiat Ribs, to porcupine Browning for made dishes Beef Tea, to make Ditto Steak Pie, do. ... Ditto, Rump of, to stew Bride’s Pie, to make Beast Heart, to roast •. Beef, to make red Ditto, Bouillie .... Bread Pudding Ditto another way Ditto and Butter Pudding Black Cap Pudding Black Puddings Barm do. • • B Pa t 71 78 104 130 161 77 120 164 121 161 163 21 158 22 159 24 157 47 122 60 21 54 48 49 49 63 64 64 68 68 72 206 Burnt Cream .... _ « • Page. 76 Bride’s Cake .. .. • • • 76 Bride Cake Icing ... .. .... .. 77 Biscuit Cake .... 81 Ditto Drops, to make .. ... 84 Buns, to make .... • • 82 Biomange, to make *. .... • • 90 Black Caps, do. .... • § • • 95 Ditto Currant Jam, to make .... 97 Barberries in bunches, to preserve . „,. 106 Ditto ditto, to pickle .„ .... 134 Bullace Cheese, to make .... 109 Beef, to pot - .. .... 116 Birds of all kinds, to pot 118 Blackberry Wine, to make _ 124 Birch Wine, do. .. _ • • • • 125 B»lm do. do. - - 126 Beet Roots, to pickle .... .... » • t t 134 Butter Scotch, to make .... 9mm 142 Burnt Almonds .... 175 Bread, to make _ _ 192 to 195 c Calf’s Head Hash ‘ ... .... • • • 14 Ditto do. to collar J17 Ditto Brain Cakes .... .... • • 15 Ditto Head, to grill .... .... 9 9 9 15 Ditto Foot Pudding .... .... 9 9 9 9 63 Ditto do Jelly .. - - 9 9 87 Cucumbers, to dress with eggs 26 Cod’s Head and Shoulders, to dress .. 9 9 9 27 Ditto Sounds, do. 9 9 28 Cod, salt, to dress ... * 155 Carp and Tench, to stew 29 Codling Pie .. ... 56 Cream Pancakes .... 73 Curd Cheesecakes .... • • • * • ...» 94 Ditto do. another way .... • • • • .. 94 Currants for tarts, to preserve •. 98 Ditto, green, to bottle .... • • • • 131 Cherries, to dry .... • • • • 110 Clotted Cream, to make • • • • .... • • 113 Cream of Tarter Whey, to make • • • 122 Chicken Broth, do. .... 122 Cowslip Wine, do. .. •• • a 124 Cranberries, to bottle .... .... 0 • • • 131 Cucumbers, to pickle .. .... •• • 135 Ditto, do. in slices .... .... ... 135 Cauliflower, to pickle white .. .. -• 140 Ditto, do. do. another way .... • • • • 140 Codlings, do. .... .... • • 141 Cabbage, do. red .... .... • • • 141 Codlings, to preserve green all the year * 152 Carp, to dress, and sauce .... • • - • • • 156 Confectionary, art of .... .... 166 to 170 Cassia, candied • • .... • • • • 172 Currant Paste .... •••• 9 0 0 9 176 Carving, art of .. - • • • • • • • D 178 to 191 Dutch Pudding, to make • • • • . • • • • • • • 67 Damsons, to preserve • • • • 107 Ditto do. another way «. • • • • 107 Ditto, to bottle .. .... •• 131 Drying and Candying ... • • • 170 Dried Apricots • • 171 Ditto Peache9 •• •• .... .... 171 Ditto Damsons »• • • • • • 9 9 9 9 173 E Eels, to pitchcock .... .... 9 9 32 Ditto, to collar • • * • • • • • 9 9 9 9 34 208 Eel-Pie, to make .. • • • Page 56 Egg and Bacon Pie ... .... • • • m 61 Elder Wine, to make 0 * 128 Ditto Buds, to pickle .. .. . * • • 134 Eels or Lampreys, to roast •. .... • • . 143 F Forced Sweet Breads .. .... # • « • IS French Bread, to make .... 0 0 0 84 Fritters, do. .... .... 0 0 0 9 84 Flummery, do. - .... 0 0 86 Ditto Eggs and Bacon, to make .... # 9 92 Ditto or Blomange, do. .... 88 Ditto Colouring, do. .. m 0 89 Ditto Solomon’s Temple, do. 0 0 0 92 Fish Pond, do. .... 0 0 0 0 89 French Beans, to keep .... .... * # 128 Ditto do. another way .... m 9 12.9 Flounders, Plaice, or Soals, to stew .. 0 0 0 0 144 G Goose, to roast .... m m 43 Ditto Pie, to make .. .... 0 0 53 German Puffs, do. .. .... 0 9 0 0 58 Giblet Pie, Yorkshire way .... .. .. 59 Goffers, to make 0 0 73 Gingerbread, do. .... .... • 00 86 Green Caps, do. .. .... m 9 95 Ditto Gooseberries, to preserve ... .... 0 0 101 Greengage Plums, to dry 0 0 0 111 Ginger, to candy .... _ 0 0 0 0 111 Groat Gruel, to make .... 9 0 123 Gooseberry Wine, do. .. .... 0 % 0 126 Gooseberry Vinegar, do. .. .... 0 0 128 Ditto do. to bottle .... 0 0 0 9 131 Ditto Paste .... 0 • 176 Gold Web, to spin for sweetmeats 0 0 0 151 209 H Haddocks, to broil • • • • • • • • Hare, to roast •. •. • • • • • • Ditto, to pot • • • • • • • • Ditto, to jug .. ...• •••• Hunter’s Pudding, to make • • • • • • Hartshorn Jelly • ••• •••• Hen’s Nest, to make • •. ♦ Ham Rolls, ditto •••*. •••• Ditto, to boil •••• t • • • Handilets, ditto •••• • • • • Hedge Hog, ditto • • • • Housekeepers Calendar for every month in the year.*• Pag*. .. 32 .. 36 .. 119 .. 38 .. 61 .. 87 .. 90 .. 142 .. 160 .. 147 .. 158 197 to 204 Indian Pickle, to make Island Floating, ditto Ditto Rocky, ditto J umballs, to make Jelly savoury, ditto K Kentish or Golden Pippins, to preserve Kidneybeans, to pickle • • • • L Lamb, Shoulder of, to goosify • Lobsters, to pot • • • • Ditto, another way • • • • Lemon Pickle, to make • • • • Ditto Pudding, ditto • Lark Pie, ditto •. • • Lemon Cream, ditto •. • • Ditto Cheesecake, ditto .. < Ditto Cream, with peel • • • • Ditto and Orange Peels, candied 9 2d •. *. • • • • 1ST 148 149 81 88 100 138 . 19 . 35 . 145 . 46 . 62 . 5T . 93 . 93 . 113 . 172 210 M u • • • • Mutton, leg of, to stew .... 7 ... Ditto, neck of, to herrico .. . Ditto, Jeg of, to eat like venison .... Ditto, shoulder of, to dress, called Hen and Chickens Ditto, breast of, to grill .... Mushrooms, to fricassee .... •... Moor Game, to pot .... .... Midcalf, to dress ..... 44.4 Mushroom Catchup, to make .... Minced Pies, ditto _ Marrow Pudding, ditto .... ditto;, ditto Macaroons, ditto .... Moonshine, ditto Marmalade, ditto Morello Cherries, to preserve Magnum Bonum Plums, ditto r . Marble Veal, to pot .... Mock Brown, to make .... Mulberry Wine, ditto Ditto Sirup, ditto • • • • ~ Mushrooms, to keep Ditto, another way .... Mango Pickle .... Mushrooms, to pickle white .. Ditto, ditto brown Ditto, to powder Mutton Steaks, to broil Macaroni, to dress .... Mutton, saddle of, to dress Malt Liquor, to refine and cure Muffins, to make f .,. Nasturtium Buds, to pickle Non Imperial, to make N Page . 10 . 14 • 20 , 52 . 52 . 2 ? . 36 . 41 « 43 . 55 . 6T ; T5 . 79 , 91 ,105 , 106 108 116 120 127 127 129 130 133 138 139 139 3 46 153 157 164 195 140 142 Ox Liver Onions, to pickle Oxford John •• Ox Palates, to stew Oysters, to scollop Ditto Loaves, to make Ditto, to pickle Orange Marmacelli Oranges, to preserve Orange Wine, to make Ditto Cream, do. Ditto Jelly, do. Ditto Chips Ditto Marmalade Pigeons Compote Partridges, to roast Partridge Pie Pheasants, to roast Pork, to goosify • • Porkling, leg of, to boil Paste for Pies, to make Ditto for Puffs and Tarts, do. Pigeon Pie, to make Ditto, to pol Pig* to roast Ditto, to collar • • • Ditto Sauce Ditto Pettitoes, to dress Pikelets, to make Pears, to stew Pineapples, to preserve 212 Peaches, to preserve .... • • • • Page. .. 109 Pigeons and Bacon, to boil • • • • ... 50 Pork Steaks, to broil ,.. . *»••• .... 146 Ditto Chine, to stuff .... • •»• .. 148 Q Queen’s Pie, to make .... • • • • .... 50 Ditto Cakes, do. ... • • • • ... 80 Quince Marmalade .... • ••• • • .. 177 Quaking Pudding, to make .... • •• • ... 67 Quinces, whole, to preserve .. • • • • .. 100 R Rabbits, to boil .... • • • • .... 41 Ditto, to roast .. .... • • • • ... 42 Ditto, to fricassee brown .... • •.• ... 42 Ditto, to fricassee white .. »• • • • .. 42 Rook Pie, to make . . .... • • • • . 57 Rice Pudding, ground, to make • • • • • ... 62 Ditto ditto, to boil .... • .. 63 Ditto ditto, plain .... • • • • ... 68 Ditto Cake, to make .. .... • • • * .. 82 Raspberry Pudding, do. .... • • • .. 71 Ratifia Cakes, do. .... • • ... 80 Red Currant Jelly, do. • • • • ... 97 Raspberry Jam, do. .... • • • • ... 98 Red Currants, in bunches, to preserve • ••• ... 98 Red Currant Wine, to make .... 125 Red Gooseberries, to preserve .. • • • • ... 105 Rice Cheesecakes, to make Raisin Wine, do. • • • • ... 123 Raspberry Paste * .... •. • • ... 175 s Seed Cake, to make .... #• • • .. 82 Shrewsbury Cakes, ditto .... • • .. 80’* Soup, Onion, ditto ... .... • * * * .. 6 Ditto,. Vermicelli, ditto \ -'33k . ,> • • • • -« •• & Soup, Cockle, to make Ditto, white pease ditto Ditto, green pease ditto Ditto, ox cheek ditto Ditto, gravy Ditto, transparent ditto Ditto, portable, for travellers, ditto Ditto, hare Ditto, brown onion Scotch collops, to dress white • • Ditto, to ditto brown Sheep rump and kidneys, to dress Sturgeon, to dress .... Salmon, jowl and shoulders, to boil Skate or Ray, to boil Soals, to roast Shrimps, to pot Sweetbreads, to fricassee Sago pudding, to make Suet ditto, ditto • • . Sparrow ditto, ditto Sponge cake, ditto Ditto biscuits, ditto Snow balls, ditto Ditto cream, ditto Syllabubs, ditto Ditto, ditto, under the cow Strawberries, to preserve . Strawberry jam, to make Steeple cream, ditto * • • • Sago gruel, ditto • •. • • • < Samphire, to pickle .... Sprats, to bake ... Silver web, to spin, for sweetmeats Sprigs, to preserve green Salmon, rolled, to make Spinage, to stew , .4,. t Transparent Marmalade Trifle, to make .. Tea Crumpets, ditto Tea Cream, ditto Turtle, Mock, ditto .. Turtle, to dress .... Treacle, to boil .... Turbot, ditto .. Ditto Sauce, to make Tharf Cake, ditto Turkey, to boil ... # Ditto, to roast Thatched House Pie, to make Trout Pie, ditto .... Trout, to pot .... Transparent Pudding, to make Ditto ditto, another way Tapioca ditto, to make Tansy ditto, ditto Ditto ditto, another way * Ditto Pancakes, to make . • Tongue, to boil* .... Veal Pie, to make Ditto, Breast of, to stew Ditto, ditto, to collar Ditto, Balls, to make Ditto, Breast, to ragoo Ditto, Olives, to make . Ditto, Breast of, to porcupine VeqisQu, Haunch, of, to roast 215 Venison Pasty, to make • •»• • • Page. 51 Veal Patties, ditto • • * • • * • * 9 9 58 Vermicelli Pudding, ditto • ••• • • • i 9 • 65 Violet Cakes, ditto • • • • • ■ • • 110 Venison, to pot • • *« • • 115 Veal, ditto • • • • • • • • 115 Ditto, Leg-of, to disguise • • • • • 9 147 Wild Ducks, to roast w •••• •••m • • 43 Woodcocks, ditto • 9 • • • • • • 9 44 Walnut Catchup, to make • ■ • t • • • . „ 47 Walnuts, to pickle .. • • * • • • . . 132 Wigs, to make light • ••• • • » « # # 83 White Currants, in bunches, to preserve 9 9 99 W ine sours, to ditto 1 • « • «• 9 9 109 Wine, to mull . • • • • • • • 9 9 121 Wine Whey, to make • • • • • •«• 9 9 122 Walnuts, to preserve green • • • • 9 9 162 Yorkshire Pudding, to make Y • • • • • • • 9 9 73 up ALBION OFFICE: Printed and Published by C. dc W. Thompson, Westbar and CormnarKft. SHEFFIELD. ms d \/a o* ► r\aH li febuM > ♦ .Wb>0 J& : i * . . ' ... • ,., f - c? 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