5 4 7 uy é WOU yf ar OLE ETM LTD oy i ge At? ee fy Die Hyp vy) y yy TRISH) PPD PFI 2 BEMELLES Vy PPPs Wey PPI SIDI I ry re ee | Mh IIIS) DIT Ie MAA EEL ELE y y J . 7 Ys} ; ; ; y eV FRY POE OR CR SO yea pj COER EELS EEE LG ( eee Lav ae ep ye, ig tedden ad i) 4 DIDI PI, yy LISS, IIS IIIS PVPS SI IIF PO) Tee ee Pe) 4AAAAAAPHR 4 y fy 4 wa y/ VIII SISO PGI Sr Fe ij wy a aes 444had ‘ Ce a VIS IPSs eee } iy, TIP II, ie PEP IP IH ee IT ISI ISP cf ees Tay ree ee +A44La Cy wa 44 4 44 ey ay FID IP ISS) SPF PIP VISTAS IO TIPPS II Fey es a f OO AANA OCLE ORAL EL ELS 4 SISTA S OO SIPPY PII eK) VISITS DID IY if own aa 5 La PPT a es Fee VIP IIIT) Sil dd dec cdd dO OOD De eee ae coy CS ee wars eT Rea PI IVS) TIS SI ISIE Sy EL ELLE, i lls Baa Sg Ne THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK; CONTAINING CLEAR AND AMPLE INSTRUCTIONS WHEREBY TO ATTAIN PROFICIENCY IN EVERY DEPARTMENT OF THIS MOST USEFUL EMPLOYMENT. WITH EXPLANATIONS OF THE VARIOUS STITCHES. EDITED BY AN AMERICAN LADY. NEW YORK: J.8. REDFIELD, CLINTON HALL. MDCCCXLIV, RAAAAL EAA EL AL LLL LPL HN wenn ere ENTERED, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1842, By J. S REDFIELD, in the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Southern District of New York. enn new PPPs ees STEREOTYPED BY REDFIELD AND SAVAGE, 13 CHAMBERS STREET, N. Y¥. ———— ¥ CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION ~ < = Z “ 2 5 CHAPTER I. INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION OF Bopy LINEN 9 Aprons. Dress Aprons. Vandyke Apron. Apron fora Young Person. A Morning Apron. Girl’s Apron. Bathing Gown. Caps. Gentlemen’s Belts. Bustles. Gentlemen’s Fronts. Child’s Collar. Cravats. Cloaks. Gentlemen’s Collars. Ladies’ Drawers. Frills. La- dies’ Night Jacket. Night Gowns. Neck and Pocket Handkerchiefs. Petticoats (Flannel). Petticoats. Poc- kets. A Dress Scarf. Plain Searf. Indian Searf. Shifts. Shirts. A Dress Shawl. Cashmere Shawl. A Lady’s Walking Shawl. A Travelling Shawl. Mourn- ing Shawls. Veils. Ladies’ Flannel Waistcoats. CHAPTER II. INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION OF Hovsr Lrn- EN « - - - - - - - 35 Bedroom Linen. Quilts. Blankets. Sheets. Pil- low Covers. Towels. Dressing Table Covers. Pin- cushion Covers. Table Linen. Table Cloths. Din- ner Napkins. Large and Small Tray Napkins, &c. Housemaid and Kitchen Linen. Paint Cloths. Cham- CONTENTS. ber Bottle Cloths. Dusters, Flannels. Chamber Bucket Cloths. Clothes Bags. Table and Dresser Cloths. Long Towels for Rollers. Kitchen Dusters. Tea Cloths. Knife Cloths. Pudding Cloths. Jelly Bag. CHAPTER III. EXPLANATION OF STITCHES - - - - 42 Hemming. Mantuamaker’s Hem. Sewing and Felling. Running. Stitching. Gathering. Double Gathering, or Puffing. German Hemming. Whip- ping. Herring-boning. Fancy Herring-boning. Double Herring-boning. Button-holes. Fancy Button-hole Stitch. Chain-Stitch. Chain-Stitch,on Gathers. Fan- ey Chain-Stitch. Coral Pattern. Fancy Bobbin Edg- ing. The Serpentine-Stitch. The Angular-Stitch. The Horseshoe-Stitch. Honey-Combing. CHAPTER IV. MIscELLANEOUS INSTRUCTIONS - - ~ - 54 Binding. Braiding. Marking. Piping. Biasing. Plaiting. Tucks. Making Buttons. ConcLuUsION - - - - oy INTRODUCTION. To become an expert needle-woman should be an object of ambition to every lady. Never is beauty and feminine grace so attractive as when engaged in the honorable discharge of household duties and domestic cares. The subject treated of in this little manual is one of vast importance, and to which we are indebted for a large amount of the comforts we enjoy; as with- out its aid we should be reduced to a state of misery and destitution, of which it is hardly possible to form an adequate conception. To learn, then, how to fab- ricate articles of dress and utility for family use, or, in the case of ladies blessed with the means of affluence; for the aid and comfort of the deserving poor, should form one of the most prominent branches of female education. And yet experience must have convinced those who are at all conversant with the general state of society, that it is a branch of study to which nothing like due attention is paid in the usual routine of school instruction. The effects of this are often painfully apparent in after life, when, from a variety of circum- stances, such knowledge would be of the highest ad- INTRODUCTION. vantage, and subservient to the noblest ends, either of domestic comfort or of active benevolence. The records of history sinform us of the high anti- quity of the art of needlework, and its beautiful mys- teries were among the earliest developments of female taste and ingenuity. As civilization increased, new wants called forth new exertions: the loom poured forth its multifarious materials, and the needle, with its accompanying implements, gave form and utility to the fabrics submitted to its operations. No one can look upon the NEEDLE Without emotion: it is a constant companion throughout the pilgrimage of life. We find it the first instrument of use placed in the hand of budding childhood, and-it is found to retain its useful- ness and charm even when trembling in the grasp of fast declining age. The little girl first employs it in the dressing of her doll, then she is taught its still higher use in making up some necessary articles for a beloved brother, or a revered parent. Approaching to womanhood, additional preparation of articles of use, as ornaments for herself and others, call for its daily employment; and with what tender emotions does the glittering steel inspire the bosom, as, beneath its magic touch, that which is to deck a lover or adorn a bride becomes visible in the charming productions of female skill and fond regard. To the adornments of the bridal bed, the numerous preparations for an anxiously-expected little stranger, and the various com- forts and conveniences of life, the service of this little Ae. a INTRODUCTION. 7 instrument is indispensable. Often, too, is it found aiding in the preparation of gifts of friendship, the ef- fects of benevolence, and the works of charity. Many of those articles which minister so essentially to the solace of the afflicted would be unknown without it; and its friendly aid does not desert us even in the dark hour of sorrow and affliction. By its aid we form the last covering which is to inwrap the body of a departed loved one, and prepare those sable habiliments which custom has adopted as the external signs of mourning. THE ART OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. CHAPTER I. INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION OF BODY-LINEN. To secure economy of time, labor, and ex- pense, and also to do everything neatly and in order, the lady who intends to engage in the domestic employment of preparing the linen necessary for personal and family use, should be careful to have all her materials ready and arranged as systematically as possible, before commencing work. The materials employed in the construction of articles which come un- der the denomination of plain needlework, are so various, that a mere list of them would oc- cupy more than half our space; and they are so well known, that it is unnecessary to name them in detail. We shall therefore proceed at once to give plain directions by which any lady 10 THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK may soon become expert in this necessary de- partment of household uses, merely observing, that a neat work-box well supplied with all the implements required, including knife, scis- sors (of at least three sizes), needles and pins in sufficient variety, bodkins, thimbles, thread and cotton, bobbins, marking silks, black lead pencils, &c., should be provided, and be fur- nished with a lock and key, to prevent the contents being thrown into confusion by chil- dren or unauthorized intruders. The lady being thus provided, and having her materials, implements, &c., placed in order upon her work-table, to the edge of which, it is an advantage to have a pincushion affixed by means of ascrew, may commence her work, and proceed with it with pleasure to herself, and without annoyance to any visiter who may favor her with a call. We would recommend, wherever practicable, that the work-table should be made of cedar, and that the windows of the working parlor should open into a gar- den, well supplied with odoriferous flowers and plants, the perfume of which, will materi- ally cheer the spirits of those especially whose ; i i i i | VP rE: OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 11 circumstances compel them to devote the greatest portion of their time to sedentary occu- pations, If these advantages can not be ob- tained, at least the room should be well venti- lated, and furnished with a few cheerful plants, and a well-filled scent-jar. The beneficent Creator intended all his children, in whatever station of life they might be placed, to share in the common bounties of his providence ; and when she who, not for pleasure, but to obtain the means of subsistence, is compelled to se- clude herself for days or weeks together from the cheering influence of exercise in the open air, it becomes both her duty, and that of those for whom she labors, to secure as much of these advantages, or of the best substitutes for them, as the circumstances of the case will admit. We now proceed to lay down what we hope will be found clear, though concise rules, for the preparation of various articles of dress and attire. Aprons.—These are made of a variety of materials, and are applied to various uses. The aprons used for common purposes, are 12 THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK made of white, blue, brown, checked, and sometimes of black linen; nankeen, stuff, and print, are also employed. ‘The width is gen- erally one breadth of the material, and the length is regulated by the height of the wearer, Dress aprons are, of course, made of finer ma- terials, cambric muslin, silk, satin, lace, clear and other kinds of muslin, &c., and are gene- rally two breadths in width, one of which is cut in two so as to throw a seam on each side, and leave an entire breadth for the middle. Aprons of all kinds are straight, and either plaited or gathered on to the band or stock at the top. Those with only one breadth, are hemmed at the bottom with a broad hem, those with two breadths must be hemmed at the sides likewise. The band should be from half a nail to a nail broad; its length is to be deter- mined by the waist of the wearer. It should be fastened at the back with hooks and eyelet holes. To some aprons pockets are attached, which are either sewed on in front, or at the back, and a slit made in the apron to corre- spond with them. ‘The slit or opening of the pocket is to be hemmed neatly, or braided, as OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 13 may be most desirable. In some kinds of aprons bibs are introduced, which are useful to cover the upper part of the dress. Their size must be determined by the taste of the person who is to wear them. Dress Aprons.—Take two breadths of any material you choose, dividing one of them in the middle. Hem all round with a broad hem three-fourths of a nail deep. The band is to be one and a half nails deep in the middle, into which. a piece of whalebone is to be inserted, on each side of which work a row or two in chain-stitch. The band is scol- loped out from the centre on its lower side five and a half nails, leaving the extremities of the band one nail broad. ‘To the scolloped portion the apron is to be fulled on, so as to sit as neat as possible, leaving the space be- neath the whalebone plain. Confine the folds by working two rows of chain-stitch just below the curved lines of the band, leaving half an inch between each row. ‘The lower edge of the band is ornamented with a small piping, but is left plain at the top. VanpykE Apron.—This may be made either 14 THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK of silk or muslin. The edge of the apron is to be tured down once all round on the right side to the depth of three quarters of a nail, and the vandykes are formed by running from the edge of the apron to near the rough edge of the material, which is afterward to be turned in. When the vandykes are completed, they are to be turned inside out and made as smooth as possible. A braid or a row of tent stitch on the right side over the stitches is a pretty finish. In setting on the band, the plaits must be placed opposite to each other so as to meet in the middle. You may line the band with buckram or stiff muslin, and ornament it with piping if you please. APRON FOR A YOUNG PERSON.—Clear mus- lin is the best material. Hem round with a hem three fourths of a nail deep, lay all round within the hem a shawl bordering, not quite so i broad as the hem. Of course the latter must be taken off before washing. A Morninc Apron.—This may be made like the last, but, instead of the shawl border- ing, surround the outer edge of the hem by a deep crimped frill, a nail in breadth. The oI: “gm “ Se vas “* anal Re ee OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 15 material most in use is jaconet or cambric muslin. The frill of lawn or cambric—which- ever you please. Girt’s Apron.—Use any material that is deemed advisable. The bib is to be made to fit the wearer in front, between the shoulders, and sloping to the waist. The apron is to be gathered or plaited to the band; and the shoul- der-straps may be of the same material, or of riband. ‘The bib either plain or ornamented with tucks or folds, as may be deemed most suitable. Barutne Gown.—The materials employed are various. Flannel, stuff, or Calamanca, are the most preferable, giving free ingress to the water. ‘Ihe length must be determined by the height of the wearer, and the width at the bot- tom should be about fifteen nails. It should be folded as you would a pinafore, and sloped three and three quarters nails for the shoulder. The slits for the arm-holes must be three nails and three quarters long, and the sleeves are to be set in plain: the length of the latter is not material. It is useful to have a slit of three inches in front of each. The gown is 16 THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK to have a broad hem at the bottom, and to be gathered into a band at the top, which is to be drawn tight with strings ; the sleeves are to be hemmed and sewn round the arm or wrist in a similar manner. Caps.—These are made of a great variety of patterns, and the materials are as various as the purposes to which the article is applied. Muslins of various kinds, lawn, net, lace, and cotton cloth, are all in request, and the borders are also extremely various. Muslin, net, or lace, being those most in coramon use. The shapes are so multifarious as to preclude us from giving any specific directions. Every lady must choose her own pattern, as best suits the purpose she has in view. The patterns should be cut in paper, and considerable care is requisite, in cutting out, not to waste the ma- terial. A little careful practice will soon make this department familiar to the expert votaress of the needle. GENTLEMEN’s BeLtts.—These are worn by persons who have much and violent exercise, and are extremely useful. They are made of strong jean or other material, and sometimes TES Sas OT ee a ee ox OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. Le of leather, and may either be made straight or a little slant, or peaked. Runners of cotton are inserted to make them more strong, and they must be furnished with long straps of webbing at the ends, sewed on with leather overthem. ‘The straps are about three inches in depth. Busties.—These are worn to make the waist of the gown sit neatly upon the person. They are made the width of the material, and eight nails deep. The piece is to be so doubled as to make two flounces, one four nails and a half, and the other three anda half deep. A case to admit of tapes to be made one nail from the top, and the bottom of each flounce is to have a thick card hemmed into it. When worn, the article is tumed inside out. The materials are strong jean, cotton cloth, or India-grass cloth. GENTLEMEN’s Fronts.—The material is fine lawn or cambric. Sometimes the sides are composed of the former, and the middle of the latter. A false hem is made down the middle, furnished with buttons, as if to open ; the neck is hollowed to the depth of a nail, and 18 THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK is plaited or gathered into a stock or band. In order that it may sit neat upon the bosom, two neck gussets are introduced. CuiLp’s Cottar.—This is made of double Trish linen, and is stitched round and made to fall over the dress. Frills are generally at- tached to them, and give them a pretty finish. They are proper for children of eight or nine years of age. Cravats.—These are of fine muslin, and are made in the shape of a half handkerchief. They are hemmed with a narrow hem, and should be cut from muslin, eighteen nails square. Croaxs.—These useful and necessary ar- ticles of dress are generally made up by a dress-maker; it is unnecessary, therefore, to give particular directions concemming them. The materials are silks and stuffs of almost every variety, including satin, merino, cloth, real and imitation shawling, plaids, and Orleans. The latter is now very generally used. ‘Trav- elling cloaks are made of a stronger material, and are trimmed in a much plainer style than those used in walking dresses. Satin cloaks vw OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK, 19 look well with velvet collars, and are also frequently trimmed with the same material. Merino and also silk cloaks are often trimmed with fur or velvet, and lined with the same. Sometimes they are made perfectly plain. The lining of a silk or satin cloak should be of the same color, or else a well-chosen contrast ; and care should be taken that the color be one that is not liable to fade or to receive damage. An attention to these general remarks will be found of much advantage to the lady who, in making her purchases, is desirous of combining elegance of appearance with durability of wear and economy of price. GeNTLEMEN’s CoLLars.—These are very generally worn, and are shaped in a variety of ways. ‘They are made double, and ornament- ed with a single or double row of back-stitch ; made to button round the neck, or are set on to ‘a band for that purpose. It is best to cut the pattern in paper, and when a good fit is ob- tained, cut the cloth by the paper model. Lavtes’ DrawEers.—Choose any proper ma- terial, and form the article by making two legs, set on to a band to fasten round the waist. 20 THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK Set on a plain or worked frill at the bottom. When setting the legs on to the band, place them so as to overlap each other. The band is eleven nails long and three deep. Fritits.—These are used as ornaments or a finish to various articles of dress. ‘The mate- rials are cambric, muslin lace, net, &c., and the manner in which they are made is various. Sometimes they are set on quite plain——that is, hemmed round and plaited up into neat folds, to the width required. At other times, frills are fitted to a band, and the edge that is to be hemmed is stiffened by rolling it over a bobbin ; it is put on as an ornament to a gown, and is tied with strings at the end. Crimped frills are worn by young children, and look extremely neat. ‘They are made of lawn or cambric, and sewn on toa band. ‘The other edge is hem- med, and the frill is double the size round the neck. The band should be half a nail in depth, and the frill is to be crimped as evenly as possible. Lapigs’ Nicut Jacxet.—The materials are various, including lawn, linen, and cotton cloth. The jackets are made of two breadths ; and as | OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. SE it is desirable not to have a seam in the shoul- der, the two breadths should be cut in one length, and carefully doubled in the middle. The neck is to be slit open, leaving three nails on each side for the shoulders, and a slit is also to abe made in front, so as to allow the garment to pass freely over the head of the wearer ; the sides are then to be seamed up, leaving proper slits for the arm-holes; and the neck and bosom are to be hemmed as neatly as possible. The sleeves are to be made the required length, and gathered into a band at the wrist, after being felled into the arm-holes mentioned above. . A neat frill round the neck, bosom, and wrists, finishes the whole. Nicgut Gowns.—These must be made of a size suitable for the wearer. The follow- ing are directions for three different sizes: The length of the gown on the skirts is one yard and a half for the first size, one yard and six nails for the second, and one yard and three nails for the third; the width of the material is eighteen, sixteen, and fourteen nails respec- tively; and the garment is to have one yard and a half breadth in width. They are to be THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK crossed so as to be at the bottom twenty-one, eighteen, and sixteen nails, and at the top fifteen, fourteen, and twelve nails, as the sizes may require. ‘The length of the sleeves is nine, eight, and seven nails, and the width is half a breadth: they are to be furnished with gussets, three, two, and two nails square, and with wristbands of the proper width, and of any depth that is deemed desirable. A binder of one nail and a half is put down the selvage of each sleeve, which strengthens it much. The gown is furnished with a collar about three nails deep, and of the length required by the wearer; and, in order that it may fit prop- erly, neck gussets of two, one, and one nail square, are to be introduced. A slit of about six nails is made in front, which is hemmed round, and the space left for the shoulders is three, two and a half, and two nails respec- tively. The whole is finished with a neat frill round the collar and wristbands. If economy is an object, cut three gowns together. This will- prevent much waste of material; an ob- ject, by every head of a family, to be kept constantly in view. = —<_ =2>s_ OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 23; Necx anp Pocxer HanpDKERCHIEFS.— These are made of a great variety of mate- rials, as silk, muslin, cambric, lawn, and net. The neck handkerchiefs are generally a half square, and are hemmed all round. It is a good plan to turn up the extreme corner, as it makes it more strong and durable. A tape is set on, which comes round the waist and ties in front. Sometimes a broad muslin hem is put on the two straight. sides, which looks extremely well. Some ladies work a border to their neck handkerchief, which gives to those made of net the appearance of lace. Pocket handkerchiefs are neatly hemmed, and somtimes have a worked border. Those used by gentlemen are of a larger size than those of ladies. Perricoats (FLaNNEL).—These are not only useful, but indispensable articles of dress. Fine flannel is the best, as it is the most du- rable, and keeps its color best in washing. The length of the petticoat is regulated by the height of the person for whom it is intended, and the width ranges from three breadths to one and a half. The bottom is hemmed with THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK a broad hem, and the top is gathered and set on to a strong band of cotton cloth or jean, leaving the front nearly plain. Sometimes a button-hole is made about two nails from the ends of the band, to which strings of tape are attached ; these are passed through the oppo- site holes, and the parts thus brought over each other form a kind of bustle, which makes the garment sit more neatly to the figure. A slit of about four nails is left on the back, which is to be hemmed round or bound with a strong binding. Petticoats are worn under the dress for the sake of warmth, and also to make the gown hang more gracefully upon the person. They should have three, or three and a half breadths of the material in the width, and the bottom is made with a broad hem three nails deep, or with tucks, or worked muslin. The latter is extremely neat. They are to be set on to a strong band, or stock, and are to have a slit left at the back about four nails in length. The skirt may be gathered full all round, or only at the back and front, leaving the sides plain ; sometimes all the fulness is thrown to OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 25 the back. Having shoulder-straps to keep up the petticoats is a great advantage ; but they are unnecessary if a waist or body, with or without sleeves, be set on tothe band. In this case, the body should be made to fit as tightly to the person as possible. The band is gene- rally about one nail in breadth. ‘The materials proper for petticoats are dimity, cotton cloth, cambric, jaconet muslin, calamanca, stuff, grass cloth, &c. What are called middle or under petticoats are made in the same manner. Those ladies who pursue the laudable practice of nursing their infants, and who wear petti- coats with bodies to them, have them to open in front. Pocxrets.—These are made of any kind of material you please. You take a piece double, and cut it to the shape required. Stitch the two pieces neatly round, a little distance from the edge. Then turn it, and let the seam be well flattened, and back-stitch it with white silk a quarter of an inch from the edge; cut a slit down about four nails, which is to be either hemmed, or have a tape laid round it on the inside. Set on the strings, and the pocket is 26 THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK complete. Some ladies have pockets attached to the petticoat. In that case, it is only a square of cotton cloth, about ten nails long and eight broad, set on to the inside of the petti- coat as plain as possible. A Dress Scarr.—This is made of broad satin riband, and must not be less than two nails and a half wide : its length is two yards and three quarters. The riband is to be doubled on the wrong side, and min in a slant- ing direction, so as to cause it to fall gracefully onthe neck. ‘The ends are to be embroidered and ornamented with braid, or left plain, as may suit the fancy. The scarf is to be sur- rounded by an edging of swans’ down. ‘This is an elegant article of female attire. A Puain Scarr.—This is generally made of net, the whole breadth, and two yards and a half long. It is hemmed all round with a broad hem, so as to admit a riband to be run in, which gives it a neat and finished appearance. An Inpian Scarr.—This is an elegant ar- ticle of dress, and can be easily made. The material is a rich Cashmere, and three colors are required; that is, black, scarlet, and a QF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 27 mazarine blue. You must have the scarf four nails and a half in width, and one yard and six nails in length; this must be black. Then you must have of the other two colors, pieces seven nails long, and the same width as the black; and you are, after finding the exact middle of the black stripe, to slope off one nail and a half toward each side, and then slope one end of the blue and of the scarlet piece, so as to make them accord precisely with the ends of the black previously prepared. You are to cut one nail and a half from the middle to the ends. You are then to split the blue and the scarlet stripes down the middle, and join half of the one to the half of the other, as accurately as possible. The pieces thus joined together are to be sewn to the black stripe, and the utmost care must be taken to make the points unite properly. You are to sew the pieces flat together, and herring-bone them all round on the right side. You finish by laying a neat silk gimp all round and over all the joinings. It should be of a clear bright color. The ends are to be fringed with scarlet and blue to correspond with the two half stripes. 28 THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK This is suitable for a walking-dress or an evening party. Suirrs.— These are generally made of fine Irish linen, or cotton cloth. They are made either with gores or ferossed. The latter is the neatest method. Two breadths are suf- ficient for a full-sized shift, and gores are cut off of a given width at the bottom, and extend- ing to a point, in order to widen the garment. In crossing a shift, you first sew the long seams ; then you double it in a slanting diree- tion, so as to mark off at top and bottom ten nails at opposite corners ; this done, you join the narrow ends together, and sew the cross seams, leaving a sufficient slit for the arm- holes. ‘There are various methods of cutting the back and bosom. Some cut out a scollop both before and behind: but in this case the back is hollowed out one third less than the front. Some ladies hollow out the back, but form the bosom with a flap, which may be cut either straight or ina slanting direction from the shoulders. Another method of forming the bosom is by cutting the shoulder-straps separate from the shift, and making the top ry OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 29 quite straight: bosom gores are then let in, in front: the top is hemmed both before and be- hind, and a neat frill gives a finish to the whole. The sleeves may be either set in plain or full, as suits the taste of the wearer. Sometimes the sleeve and gusset are both in one piece; at other times they are separate. In all cases, great care should be taken, in cutting out, not to waste the material. For this purpose it is always advisable to cut out several at one time. Shifts for children of from five to ten years of age are generally made with flaps both before and behind. This is decidedly the ‘neatest shape for them. The bottom, in all cases, should be hemmed with a broad hem. Suirts.—These are generally made of linen, but cotton cloth is also made use of. The de- gree of fineness must be determined by the occupation and station of the wearer. A long piece of linen will, if cut with care, make several shirts of an ordinary man’s size. In cutting, you must take a shirt of the required dimensions as a pattern, and by it measure the length of several bodies, not cutting any but the last. ‘Then cut off the other bodies, and 30 THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK from the remainder cut off the sleeves, bind- ers, gussets, &c., measuring by the pattern. Bosom pieces, falls, collars, &c., must be fitted and cut by a paper or other pattern which suits the person for whom the articles are intended. In making up, the bodies should be doubled, so as to leave the front flap one nail shorter than that behind. ‘Then marking off the spaces for the length of the flaps and arm-holes, sew up the seams. The bosom slit is five nails, and three nails is the space left for the shoulders. The space for the neck will be nine nails. One breadth of the cloth makes the sleeves, and the length is from nine to ten nails. The collar and the wristbands are made to fit the neck. and wrists, and the breadths are so va- rious that no general rule can be given. You make the binders or linings about twelve nails in length and three in breadth; and the sleeve gussets are three, the neck gusset two, the flap gussets one, and the bosom gusset half a nail square. ‘The work or stitches introduced into the collar, wristbands, &c., are to be regulated according to the taste of the maker or the wearer. r- OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 31 Gentlemen’s night shirts are made in a simi- lar manner, only that they are larger. The cloth recommended to be used is that kind of linen or cotton which is called shirting width. Where a smaller size is required, a long strip will cut off from the width, which will be found useful for binders, wristbands, &c. A Dress Saawi.—Take a half square of one yard and twelve nails of satin velvet, or plush, whichever you please, and line it with sarcenet, either white or colored; trim the two straight edges with a hem of either silk or satin, from one to one nail and a half in breadth, and cut crosswise. Or you may trim with fur, lace, or fringe. CasHmereE SHawi.—You will require for the centre a piece of colored Cashmere, one yard six nails square, which is to be hemmed all round with a very narrow hem. You must then take four strips of Cashmere or of shawl bordering, to harmonize. or contrast well with the centre, which must be hemmed on both sides,and then sewn on, so as that the stitches may appear as little as possible. The border should be three nails broad, and of course THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK joined point to point at the comers; and it must be so set on as that the two comers shal fall properly over each other. The shawl is finished by a fringe set on all round, and some- times by a colored gimp laid on over the joimings. A Lavy’s Waxing SHawi.—This may be made of cloth, merino, or silk, and either a whole or half square, at pleasure. The di- mensions are one yard and twelve nails, and the lining is of silk. In order that when the shawl is doubled the hems of both folds may appear at the same time, care must be taken, after laying on the border on two successive sides, to turn the shawl and then lay on the remainder of the border. The trimmings for these kinds of shawls are of great variety. A TraveLLine SHawL.—This is easily made, and is very warm and convenient: take a square of wadding, and double it cornerwise, cover it with muslin or silk, and trim it as you please. Mourninc Suawis.—These may be made either of half a square of black silk, entirely covered with crape, which is proper for deep mourning, or you may take half a square of eae] OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 33 rich and rather dull black silk, and border it with a hem of crape, two nails deep, laid on upon the two straight sides of the shawl. Veits.—These are made of net, gauze, or lace, and are plain or worked, as suits the taste of the wearer. White veils are generally of lace: mourning ones are made of black crape. The jet black is to be preferred, as it wears much better than the kind termed blue black. Colored veils look well with a satin riband of the same color, and about a nail deep, put on as a hem all round. For white ones, a riband of alight color is preferable, as it makes a slight contrast. A crape or gauze veil is hem- med round ; that at the bottom being something broader than the rest. All veils have strings run in at the top, and riding ones are frequently furnished with a riband at the bottom, which enables the wearer to obtain the advantage of a double one, by tying the second string round her head when she is desirous to screen her eyes from the sun and dust, and at the same time to enjoy the advantage of a cool and re- freshing breeze. Demivoils are short veils, fulled all round the bonnet, but most at the , 2 34 THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK ears, which makes them fall more gracefully. It is advisable to take them up a little at the ears, so as not to leave them the full depth: without this precaution, they are liable to ap- pear unsightly and slovenly. Lapies’ FranneL WaistcoatT.—This is in many cases an indispensable article of female attire. For an ordinary size, you must take a piece of flannel twelve nails wide and seven deep, folding it exactly in the middle. At two nails from the front, which is doubled, the arm- holes must be cut, leaving two nails for half of the back. The front is to be slightly hollowed. At the bottom cut a slit of three nails, imme- diately under the arm-holes, into which insert a gore three nails broad and the same in length, and terminating in a point. Bosom gores are also to be introduced of a similar shape, and just half the size—put in just one nail from the shoulder-strap. In making the waistcoat, it is to be herring-boned all round, as are also all the gores and slits. A broad tape, one nail in width, is laid down each side of the front, in which the button-holes are made and buttons seton; the shoulder-straps are of tape, and the waistcoat fastens in front. a OO ES eee YT OF FLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 35 CHAPTER Ii. INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION OF HOUSE LINEN. Beproom Linen.—This includes quilts, blankets, sheets, pillow covers, towels, table- covers, and pincushion covers. Quitts.—These are of various sizes and qualities, in accordance with the purposes to which they are to be applied. They are gen- erally made of the outside material, and the lining, wadding, or flannel, being laid between, and stitched in diamonds ors other devices. The stitches must pass through the whole, and the edges of the quilt are to be secured by a braiding proper for the purpose. ‘They are best done in a frame. BuLaNnKETs.—These are bought ready pre- pared for use. It is sometimes advisable to work over the edges at the end, which should be done with scarlet worsted in a very wide kind of button-hole stitch. Suerets.—These are made of fine linen, 36 THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK coarse linen, and cotton cloth. Linen sheets are in general to be preferred. ‘The seam up the middle must be sewn as neatly as possible, and the ends may be either hemmed or seamed : the latter is the preferable method. Sheets and all bedroom linen should be marked and numbered ; to add the date of the year is also an advantage. Pittow Covers.—These are made of fine or coarse linen, and sometimes of cotton cloth. The material should be of such a width as to correspond with the length of the pillow. One yard and three nails, doubled and seamed up, is the proper size. One end is seamed up, and the other hemmed with a broad hem, and furnished with strings or buttons as is deemed most convenient. We think the preferable way of making pillow covers is to procure a material of a sufficient width, when doubled, to admit the pillow. The selvages are then sewn together, and the ends seamed and hem- med as before directed. Bolster covers are made in nearly the same manner, only that a round patch is let into one end, and a tape for a slot is run into the other. OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 37 Towrts.—Towels are made of diaper or huckaback, of a quality adapted to the uses to which they are applicable. They should be one yard long and about ten or twelve nails wide. The best are bought single, and are fringed at the ends. Others are neatly hem- med, and sometimes have a tape loop attached to them, by which they can be suspended against a wall. Dresstne TaBLE Covers.—These may be made of any material that is proper for the purpose. Fine diaper generally, but some- times dimity and muslin are employed, or the table is covered with a kind of Marseilles quilting, which is prepared expressly for the purpose. Sometimes the covers are merely hemmed round, but they look much neater if fringed, or bordered with a moderately full frill. Sometimes a worked border is set on. All depends upon taste and fancy. A neat and genteel appearance, in accordance with the furniture of the apartment, should be especially regarded. Pincusnion Covers.—A large pincushion, having two covers belonging to it, should be- THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK long to each toilet table. The covers are merely a bag intorwhich the cushion is slipped. They may be either worked or plain, and should have small tassels at each corner, and a frill or fringe all round. Taste Linen.—This department of plain needlework comprises table-cloths, dinner nap- kins, and Jarge and small tray napkins. Tasie-Ciorus.—These may be purchased either singly or cut from the piece. In the latter case, the ends should be hemmed as neatly as possible, and marked and numbered. Dinner Napxins.—These are of various materials ; if cut from the piece, they must be hemmed at the ends the same as table-cloths. Large and small tray napkins, and knife-box cloths, are made in the same manner. The hemming of all these should be extremely neat. It is a pretty and light employment for very young ladies ; and in this way habits of neat- ness and usefulness may be formed, which will be found very beneficial in after life. Hovsemaip anp Kircnen Linen.—The next subject to which the attention of the vo- taress of plain needlework ought to be directed OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK, 39 is the preparation of housemaid and kitchen linen. On these subjects a very few general observations will be all that is necessary. In the housemaid’s department, paint cloths, old and soft, and chamber bottle cloths, fine and soft, are to be provided. To these must be added dusters, flannels for scouring, and cham- ber bucket cloths, which last should be of a kind and color different from everything else. All these must be neatly hemmed and run, or seamed if necessary. Nothing, in a well-di- rected family, should bear the impress of neglect, or be suffered to assume an untidy appearance. Clothes-bags of different sizes should also be provided of two yards in length, and either one breadth doubled——in which case only one seam will be required—or of two breadths, which. makes the bags more suitable for large articles of clothing. ‘These bags are to be seamed up neatly at the bottom, and to have strings which will draw run in at the top. The best material is canvass, or good strong unbleached linen. In the kitchen department, you will require both table and dresser clothes, which should be made as neat as possible. 40 THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK Long towels, of good linen and of a sufficient length, should be made, to hang on rollers: they are generally a full breadth, so that hem- ming the sides is unnecessary. ‘They should be two yards long when doubled, and the ends should be secured strongly and neatly together. If the selvage is bad, the best way is to hem it at once. Kitchen dusters, tea-cloths, and knife-cloths, may be made of any suitable ma- terial ; but, in all cases, let the edges be turned down, and neatly sewed or overcast. Puppine-Ciorus.—These should be made of coarse linen, neatly hemmed round, fur- nished with strings of strong tape, and marked. Jerry Bac.—This is made of a half square, doubled so as to still form a half square. The top must be hemmed, and furnished with three loops, by which it is to be suspended from the frame when in use. We have thus given plain directions for the preparation of all kinds of plain needlework in | general use, and we hope in such a manner as to afford ample instruction to those ladies who are desirous of becoming proficients in this important department of domestic economy. o OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 41 Some may think that we have been too mi- nute, but we were desirous to omit nothing that could be generally useful; and we had regard also to those ladies who, having been under no necessity of practising plain needle- work in their earlier years, are desirous of preparing articles for their humbler fellow-crea- tures, or by the sale of which they may procure more ample supplies for the funds of charity. We have good reason to believe that many well-disposed persons would be glad in this way to aid the cause of humanity, and to de- vote a portion of their leisure hours to the augmenting of the resources of benevolence, but they are destitute of the practical expe- rience necessary to enable them todo so. To all such we hope our little manual will be an acceptable offering, and enable them, by a ju- dicious employment of the means and talents committed to their trust, to realize the truth of the saying of the wise man, “there is that seattereth and yet increaseth.” THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK CHAPTER III. EXPLANATION OF STITCHES. Hemminc.—Tum down the raw edge as evenly as possible. Flatten, and be careful, especially in turning down the corners. Hem from right to left; bring the point of the nee- dle from the chest toward the right hand. Fasten the thread without a knot, and when you finish, sew several stitches close together, and cut off the thread. Manruamaxer’s Hem.—You lay the raw edge of one of your pieces a little below that of the other; the upper edge is then turned over the other twice, and felled down as strong as possible. Sewine anp Fetiinc.—If you have sel- vages, join them together, and sew them firmly. If you have raw edges, turn down one of the edges once, and the other double the breadth, and then turn half of it back again. This is for the fell. The two pieces are pinned to- gether face to face, and seamed together ; the | 4 : OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 43 stitches being in a slanting direction, and just deep enough to hold the separate pieces firmly together. Then flatten the seam with the thumb, turn the work over and fell it the same as hemming. The thread is fastened by being worked between the pieces and sewn over. Runntnc.—Take three threads, leave three, and in order that the work may be kept as firm as possible, backstitch occasionally. If you sew selvages, they must be joined evenly to- gether ; but if raw edges, one must be turned down once, and the other laid upon it but a few threads from the top. It is, in this case, to be felled afterward. Stircuinc.— The work must be as even as possible. Turn down a piece to stitch to, draw a thread to stitch upon twelve or fourteen threads from the edge. Being thus prepared, you take two threads back, and so bring the needle out from under two before. Proceed in this manner to the end of the row; and in joining a fresh piece of thread, take care to pass the needle between the edges, and to bring it out where the last stitch was finished. 44 THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK GaTHERING.—You begin by taking the ar- ticle to be gathered, and dividing it into halves, and then into quarters ; putting on pins to make the divisions. The piece to which you are intending to gather it must be gathered about twelve threads from the top, taking three threads on the needle, and leaving four; and so proceeding alternately until one quarter is gathered. Fasten the thread by twisting it round a pin; stroke the gathers, so that they lie evenly and neatly, with a strong needle or pin. You then proceed as before, until all the gathers are gathered. ‘Then take out the pins, and regulate the gathers of each quarter so as to correspond with those of the piece to which it is to be sewed. The gathers are then to be fastened on, one at a time; and the stitches must be in a slanting direction. ‘The part to be gathered must be cut quite even before commencing, or else it will be impossible to make the gathering look well. DovsaLe GATHERING, oR Purrinec.—This is sometimes employed in setting on frills, and, when executed properly, has a pretty effect. You first gather the top in the usual way; then, OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 45 having stroked down the gathers, you gather again under the first gathering, and of such a depth as you wish the puffing tobe. You then sew on the first gathering to the gown, frock, &c. you design to trim, at a distance corres- ponding with the width of the puffing, and the second gathering sewed to the edge, so as to form a full hem. You may make a double hem, if you please, by gathering three times instead of only twice; and one of the hems may be straight, while the other is drawn to one side a little. This requires much exact- ness in the execution, but, if properly done, it gives a pleasing variety to the work. Turn down both the raw edges once, taking care so to do it as that both turns may be toward your person; you then lay one below the other, so as that the smooth edge of the nearest does not touch the other, but lies just beneath it. The lower one is then to be hemmed or felled to the piece against which you have laid it, still holding it before you. You are next to open your sleeve, or whatever else you have been employed upon ; and laying the upper fold over the lower, fell it down, and the work is done. German HemMine. 46 THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK Wuirrinc.—You cut the edge smooth, and divide into halves and quarters, as for gather- ing. You then roll the muslin, or other mate- rial, very lightly upon the finger, making use of the left thumb for that purpose. The nee- dle must go in on the outside, and be brought through on the inside. ‘The whipping cotton should be as strong and even as possible. In order that the stitches may draw with ease, they must be taken with great care. ‘The roll of the whip should be about ten threads. Herrine-Bontne.—This is generally em- ployed in articles composed of flannel, or other thick material. ‘The edge is to to be cut even, and turned down once. You work from left to right, thus : put your needle into the material, and take a stitch of two or three threads as closely as pos- sible under the raw edge, and bring the needle half way up that part which is turned down, and four or five threads toward the right hand— make another stitch, and bring down the nee- dle; thus proceed until the work is completed. This stitch is something like the backbone of OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 47 a fish, and is sometimes used as an ornament for children’s robes, and at the tops of hems, &c. It looks both neat and elegant when carefully executed. Fancy Herrine-sontne.—This is the same as common herring-bone, only that it is done in a perpendicular manner, instead of from right to left; and the thread is brought round behind the needle, so as to finish the work in a more tidy manner. It has an exceed- ingly neat and pleasing look when well executed. Dovarte Herrine-ponine.—This pattern is a kind of double herring-bone on each side. The engraving will give a better idea of this stitch than any description we could give. Great care being required to keep the pattern even, it is advisable to run a tacking-thread, as a guide, down the middle of it. Burron-HoLr.—These should ‘be cut by a thread, and their length should be that of the THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK A diameter of the button. In HN working, the button-hole is i ‘eens to lie lengthwise upon the HW fore-finger ; and you begin sa at the side which is opposite to the thumb, and the furthest from the point of the finger on which it is laid.. The needle must go in on the wrong side and be brought out on the right, five threads down. To make the stitch, the needle is passed through the loop before it is tightened or drawn closely. Care must be taken in turning the corners, not to do it too near ; and, in order that a proper thick- ness may be obtained, it is necessary that the needle should go in between every two threads. Making button-holes requires great care and attention. Fancy Burron-HoLe Stitcu.—This re- sembles a very wide button- hole stitch, and is very neat for the fronts of bodies, like- wise for the bands and shoul- der-bits, and above the broad hems and tucks of frocks. Cuain Stitcn#.—In making this stitch, you Pe re Sn ee a OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 49 are to employ union cord, bobbin, or braid, whichever you deem most suitable. Make a knot at the end, &. and draw it through to the right i] side. While you put in the nee- fi} die, let the end hang loosely, and bring it out below, so as to incline a little toward the left hand. Pass your needle over the cord as you draw it out, and this will form a loop. In drawing out the mesh, you must be careful not to draw the stitch too tight, as that would destroy the effect. You proceed in the same manner to form the next and each succeeding loop; taking care to put the needle ina little higher, and rather more to the right than in the preceding stitch, so that each loop begins within the lower part of the one going before it, and you thus produce the» resemblance of a chain, Cuain Stitcu, on Gatuers.—This looks well if worked in colored worsted or cord. Two gathers are taken up for each stitch, taking care always to take one of the previous stitches and one new gather on the needle at the same time THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK Fanoy Cuan Stircu.—tThe only difference between this and common chain stitch is that very little of the cord is taken up on the needle at a time, and the stitches are far from each other. Its appearance will be varied accordingly as you put in the needle to slant little or much. If you work it perfectly horizontally, it is button-hole stitch. Corat PatrerN.—This requires great ac- curacy in the working, and it is advisable for the inexpe- ( f\ rienced to run lines in long stitches, to fix the middle and outsides of the pattern. It may be best understood Trom the engraving, merely observing that the stitch is begun on the left hand, and continued alternately from left to right, always pointing the needle toward the centre. It is very suit- able for the waistbands of children’s frocks, the tops of broad hems, &e. _ Fancy Bossin Epveine.—This is formed by a succession of loops, made in the following f= v OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 51 manner: Make a knot at the end, and put the needle through to the right side, just below the hem. Bring the bobbin over the hem, and putting in the nee- dle at the wrong side, bring it through. Draw the loop to.the size you desire, pass the bobbin through it, and commence the next stitch. proceeding as before. Tue Serrentine StitcH.—This is exceed- ingly pretty, and is much employed for children’s dresses. It is worked with J the hand, being sewn on to the material i.@ | when made. Take the cord, knot it so 4 as to form a loop at one end, then pass ne the other end through the loop toward ~ “the front, to form another loop to the’ right hand; continue passing the bobbin through the loop on one side, then through the loop on the other, directing the cord so to pass from the side of the work invariably toward the inner part, or that part next the work. Tur AneGuLar Stircu.—This stitch resem- bles button-hole stitch, only that it is carried THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK from right to left for the purpose of forming the pattern. It is a very neat ornament for cuffs, skirts, and capes of children’s pelisses. As much of its beauty depends on its regularity, care should be taken to make the pat- terns very even and straight, and of equal width. Tur Horsesnor Stircu.—This is done with thick, loosely-twisted cot- ton, or bobbin, and is worked from left to right, as shown in _ the accompanying engraving. It has an exceedingly pretty ap- pearance—especially when it is worked near the edge of robings, hems, &c. Honry-compinc.--The material may be velvet, silk, &c., and the mode of working it is as moa follows: The piece you in- tend honey-combing must be creased in regular folds, taking care that they are as even as pos- sible. Then make the folds lie closely to- gether by tacking them with a strong thread, ey: acter t ote —anhe OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 53 and on long stitches. You then take silk of the proper color—stitch together, at equal and moderate distances, the first two folds, and pro- ceed with each succeeding two in the same manner, only taking the stitches in the inter- mediate spaces. ‘Thus the stitches of each alternate row will correspond together. Draw out the thread when the work is finished, and on pulling it open it will form diamonds on the right side. This work is proper for the inside of work-boxes, and is sometimes employed to ornament the tops of beds. It looks well if carefully executed. THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK CHAPTER IV. MISCELLANEOUS INSTRUCTIONS. Binpine.—Various kinds of work have binding set on to them, in preference to hem- ming them, or working them in herring-bone stitch. Flannel is generally bound, sometimes with a thin tape, made for the purpose, and called “flannel binding.” It is also common to bind flannel with sarcenet riband. The binding is so put on as to show but little over the edge on the right side, where it is hemmed down neatly; on the other side it is run on with small stitches. Braipine.—Silk braid looks pretty, and is used for a variety of purposes. In putting it on, it is best to sew it with silk drawn out of the braid, as it is a better match, and the stitches will be less perceived. Marxine.—It is of essential importance that cloths should be marked and numbered. This is often done with ink; but as some — >¥F OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 55 persons like to mark with» silk, we shall describe the stitch. ‘T'wo threads are to be taken each way of the cloth, and the needle must be passed three ways, in order that the stitch may be complete. The first is aslant from the person, toward the right hand. The second is downward toward you; and the third is the reverse of the first—that is, aslant from you toward the left hand. The needle is to be brought out at the comer of the stitch nearest to that you are about to make. The shapes of the letters or figures can be learned from an inspection of any common sampler. Prpine. This is much used in ornamenting children’s and other dresses. It is made by enclosing a card of the proper thickness in a strip of silk cut crosswise, and must be put on as evenly as possible, Puiattine.—The plaits must be as even as it is possible to place them one against another. In double plaiting, they lie both ways, and meet in the middle. Brasinc.—In this operation, the first part of the stitch is the same as gathering. You then stitch down ; and upon the right side o THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK the gather you lay a thread 4a good deal thicker than | the one you used for gath- ering. Over this thread you sew, taking care to take hold of the gathering thread. The needle is to be pointed to your chest. You may work two or three rows in this way upon the sleeves and shoulders of dresses, &c., which has a very handsome ef- fect. You must take care to bring the needle out between each gather. Tucks.—These require to be made even. You should have the breadth of the tuck, and also the space between each, notched on a card. They look the best run on with small and regular stitches. You must be careful to take a backstitch constantly as you proceed. Maxine Burrons.—Cover the wire with a piece of cotton cloth, or other material of the proper size; turn in the corners neatly, and work round the wire in button-hole stitch: work the centre like a star. In making up linen, thread is much prefera- ble to cotton. Sewing silk should be folded up —=te OF PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 57 neatly in wash leather, and colored threads and cotton in paper, as the air and light are likely to injure them. Buttons, hooks and eyes, and all metal implements, when not in use, should be kept folded up, as exposure to the air not only tarnishes them, but is likely to injure them in a variety of ways. THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK CHAPTER V. CONCLUSION. THE space already occupied leaves us but little opportunity for concluding remarks: but we can not dismiss the little manual we have thus prepared, without a word or two to our fair countrywomen, on the importance of a general and somewhat extensive acquaintance with these arts, in which so much of the com- fort of individual and domestic life depends. Economy of time, labor, and expense, is an essential requisite in every family, and will ever claim a due share of attention from her who is desirous of fulfilling, with credit to her- self and advantage to others, the allotted duties of her appointed station. ‘To those who are at the head of the majority of families, an ex- tensive knowledge of the various departments of plain neelework is indispensable. The means placed at their disposal are limited—in many instances extremely so; and to make the »most of these means, generally provided by the OF PLAIN NLEDLEWORK. 99 continual care and unremitting attention of the father and the husband, is a sacred duty, which can not be violated without the entailment of consequences which every well-regulated mind wust be anxious to avoid. These remarks apply principally to that large class who are dependant upon exertion, of some kind, for the means of comfort and respecta. bility in their respective stations. But to those ladies whose circumstances render the practi- cal acquaintance with the art here treated of, a matter of indifference, a knowledge of it is by no means unnecessary. In many ways, indeed, a lady blessed with affluence may render an ac- quaintance with the details of plain needlework extensively useful. It is often the case that young persons are engaged in families whose education has been, from some cause or other, lamentably neglected. In those cases, the lady who feels her obligations, and is actuated by a truly Christian spirit, will consider herself as standing in the place of a mother to her humble dependants, and, under a deep sense of her high responsibilities, will endeavor to improve them, and fit them, by suitable and kindly- 60 THE LADIES’ HAND-BOOK. imparted instruction, for the proper discharge of the duties of that station which it may be presumed they will in after days be called upon to fill. In this case, how useful will the kind and careful mistress find a knowledge of that art, which teaches the proper method of making those articles of dress which are so essential to every family which, however humble, is desi- rous of securing the respect of the wise and the good, by judicious economy and a respect- able appearance. Those ladies who are in the habit of devo- ting a portion of their time to the superinten- dence of charitable societies, will also find a knowledge of this art extremely beneficial. To those who are disposed to follow the example of the holy Dorcas, in providing gar- ments for the deserving and destitute poor, an acquaintance with plain needlework is indis- pensable ; and, indeed, it will in every walk — of life be found useful to her who is, by the animating love of the Lorp Jzsus, disposed “To seek the wretched out, And court the offices of soft humanity.” J. S. REDFIELD, CLINTON HALL, Corner of Nassau and Beekman streets, PUBLISHES, AND HAS FOR SALE, WHOLESALE AND RETAIL, THE FOLLOWING POPULAR BOOKS: Ladies’ Hand-Books. A Series of Hann-Booxs For Lapres, edited by an American Lady—elegantly bound with fancy covers and gilt edges. Im- perial 32mo. No. 1. BABY LINEN— Containing Plain and Ample Instructions for the preparation of an Infant’s Wardrobe; with engraved patterns. Indispensable to the young wife.”— World of Fashion. No. 2. PLAIN NEEDLEWORK— Containing Clear and Ample Instructions where- by to attain proficiency in every department of this most Useful Employment; with en- eravings. Tt should be read by every housekeeper, and is highly use- ful to the single lady.”—Ladies’ Court Circular. No. 3. FANCY NEEDLEWORK AND EMBROI- DERY— . Containing Plain and Ample Directions where- by to become a perfect. Mistress of those de- lightful Arts; with engravings. “The directions ate plain and concise, and we can honestly rec- ommend the volume to every reader.”—New La Belle Assembice. WORKS PUBLISHING BY J. 8, REDFIELD. No. 4. KNITTING, NETTING, & CROTCHET— Containing Plain Directions by which to become proficient in those branches of Useful and Ornamental Employment; with engravings. “A more useful work can hardly be desired.”—Court Gazette, No. 5. EMBROIDERY ON MUSLIN AND LACE- WORK, AND TATTING— Containing Plain Directions for the Working of Leaves, Flowers, and other Ornamental De- vices ; fully illustrated by Engravings. “Tt should find its way into every female school.”—Gazette of Education. No. 6. MILLINERY AND DRESSMAKING— Containing Plain Instructions for making the most useful Articles of Dress and Attire; with engraved patterns. “Tn this age of economy, we are glad to welcome this practical book.”—La Belle Assemblee. THE WHOLE FORMING A USEFUL AND ATTRACTIVE SERIES OF Books. Eacu Work COMPLETE IN IT- SELF. Any number sold separately. A NEW AND SPLENDID FAMILY BIBLE, The Pictorial Bible—Being the Orn and New Testaments, according to the authorized version, with more than oNE THOUSAND ENGRa«- VINGS, representing the Historical Events, after the most celebrated pictures of West, Rar- FAELLE, Rusens, Micwaren ANGELO, GurDo, Poussin, and Carracct. The Lanpscare Scengs, from original drawings, by Meyer, Cassas, Forsin, Frazer, LaBorpde, and others; and the ay) WORKS PUBLISHING BY J. 8. REDFIELD. 3 subjects of Natura History, of Costume, and of Antiquities, from ANCIENT SCULPTURE, and from the best sources, ancient and modern.— With full Marginal References ; the latest and most authentic Mars; an elegantly-engraved Famity Recorp; and the Text, from the Stan- dard Edition of the American Bree Society. Pictorial New Testament. The New Testament of our Lord and Savior Jesus Christ, with views of places mentioned in the text, and accurate delineations of the costumes and objects of Natural History.—With an av- THENTIC Map or Patestine, from recent sur- veys. The Pictorial New Testament with the Book of Psalms. Criminal History of England. Criminal History of the English Government, from the first massacre of the Irish to the poisoning of the Chinese. By E. Recnavutt. Translated from the French by an American, with notes. A vivid picture of the wrongs perpetrated by England upon the rights of nations. WARDLAW ON MAGDALENISM. Lectures on Magdalenism; its Nature, Extent, Effects, Guilt, Causes, and Remedy. By Rev. Ratrn Warptaw, D. D. Delivered and pub- lished by special request of forty Ministers of the Gospel, and eleven hundred fellow-Chris- — tians. From second Glasgow edition. WORKS PUBLISHING BY J. S. REDFIELD. ROLLIN’S ANCIENT HISTORY. The Ancient History of the Egyptians, Cartha- ginians, Assyrians, Babylonians, Medes and Persians, Grecians, and Macedonians; including a history of the Arts and Sciences of the An- cients. By Cuartes Rotiin; with a Life of the Author by James Bett. 2 vols. octavo— with maps and plates. GUIZOT’S GIBBON, History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Em- pire. By Epwarp Gipson, Esq. A new edition, revised and corrected throughout, preceded by a preface, and accompanied by Notes, critical and historical, relating principally to the propa- gation of Christianity: by M. F. Guizor, Minis- ter of Publie Instruction for the Kingdom of France. 2 volumes, octavo. SEARS’ PICTORIAL ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE BIBLE. The Pictorial Illustrations of the Bible and Views in the Holy Land. Illustrated with 600 Engra- vings. By Rosert Sears. Three volumes. Twenty-five thousand copies of this Work have been sold within two years. EASTERN ARTS AND ANTIQUITIES. Eastern Arts and Antiquities—Being Illustrations of Manners, Customs, Costumes, &c., &c., of the inhabitants of the Holy Land.—130 Illustrations. BIBLE QUADRUPEDS. Bible Quadrupeds—An account of the Quadrupeds mentioned in the Bible, with sixteen splendid Engravings, d ee ae ee o oe 9 9 | Yas © ~© SRY cee Rt PC SP TCROR POM DO Beh CAM RI hed WOE WA PA baad RRS PPD RC RR on bapa yi : Vey PY Wy ‘ . er SACS gt ANA AAA RAS Dh Re Rb hark Sah OY " AO DUP PARRA DODO De RROD DLO Pa MDA 2h SU OU COR ENR EU CUETO UTE Oe FARRAR a SOCAL Ueto ty LAA AI tony SPCR BN AN ey ATA GE LAR A RENAL AA LAT A OR hh SN LAA OY ta bi y " R 7 at ‘ : s s NASA ANS i. : A . A VPs * ‘ ay a SPEEA