f o THE JOURNAL OF A TOUR THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA TO THE FALLS OF NIAGARA; ContainiDg an ACCOUNT OP THE CITIES, TOWNS, AND VILLAGES ALONG THE ROUTE, with A Description of the Country, and of the Manners and Customs of the Inhabitants, Stc. 8(C. WRITTEN DURING THE SUMMER OF 1831. BY THOMAS FOWLER. ABERDEEN: LEWIS SMITH, 66, BROAD STREET. 1832. G. Cornwall, Printer, Cruden's Court, 22, Broad Street, Aberdeen. NOTICE. The present volume is intended equally to assist the Tourist and the Emigrant, who may have occasion to travel to the Province of Upper Ca- nada, in British America. It has long been a just complaint in this country, that no correct account of the distances, and mode of conveyance along the line, has hitherto been published. The requisite information is now offered to the public in this volume, which contains an account of all the stages betwixt Quebec and the Falls of Nia- gara ; the distances between them; and the modes of conveyance, whether by stage-coach or steam- boat, with their respective charges. Aberdeen, June, 1832 . INDEX Page Voyage to Quebec, ♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦ 5 Quebec, 43 Historical account of Ameri- ca, ^*^^^***^^^*^<*^ 49 Description of Quebec, ♦♦♦♦ 53 Topography of the Churches, 55 Philanthropic Institutions,^^ 58 Civil Edifices, 61 Military Edifices,^^^^-^-^^ 64 Commercial Establishments, 67 Literature, 71 Philanthropic Societies,^^^^ 73 General Observations, 75 Indians, 78 Excursions, 81 Pr 0 m enad es, 83 Auction Halls, 83 Itinerary, 86 Current Wages at Quebec, 89 Observations on the People, (^C. *^*^*^^^**’*^*^****^^^ 90 Visit to the Fort,-^^-^^^^ 91 Itinerary, 95 Canada Company’s Lands, 97 Crown Lands, 100 Situation of Quebec, 103 Tables of the Distances, ^ 103 Topography of the River,>^ 104 Voyage from Quebec to Montreal, 109 Montreal, 118 Itinerary, 123 Route from Montreal to Prescott, ♦♦#####^#«^#^ 129 Page Rates for Freight and Pas- sage, 140 On Lake Ontario, 141 Voyage from Prescott to Co- bourg, 142 Arrival at Cobourg, 148 Description of a Township, 150 Clearances and Farming, 15^1 The Western District, 161 The London District, 177 The Huron Territory, 183 Itinerary at Cobourg, 186 Female Industry,^^^^^-»^'»^ 188 Excursions near Cobourg,*^ 191 Description of Cobourg, ♦♦ 195 Itinerary at Cobourg Vil- lage, 198 From Cobourg to the Falls, 203 Falls of Niagara, 214 The Hermit of Niagara Falls, 221 Clifton \ illagc,'^’^^^#^-*^ 226 From Niagara to Quebec,-^^ 234 Quebec Races, 245 Miscellaneous Observations, 248 Currency, 254 General Observations, 255 Miramichi, New Brunswick, 264 Forests of New Brunswick, &c. 269 General Observations, 278 Voyage from Miramichi to Aberdeen, 281 Prices Current in Canada, 284 A TOUR THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA, TO THE FALLS OF NIAGARA, IN 1831. On the 4th April, 1831, I embarked on board the Bril- liant of Aberdeen, bound for Quebec, the capital of Lower Canada, in British North America. The passen- gers had received previous orders to be on board ship, by five in the afternoon. On my arrival at the hour appointed, several of the passengers were on board, and others just arriving. Some of the citizens had come to bid farewell to their friends and acquaintances, whom they probably would never see again. Among these was an elderly lady, who entered the cabin in the course of three minutes after my arrival. I asked a gentleman if it was expected the vessel would float so as to let us out with the present tide. He answered, ‘‘ It is very doubt- ful, but all will be done that can be done.'’ The old lady cried out in a clamorous manner, " O ! guid forbid that she move as lang's Tm here ! ” One of the ladies said, ‘'You can go out with us to the bay, and return B 6 JOURNAL OF A TOUR with the pilot boat.*' '' Me go out with you ? guid for- bid ! I wudna go over the bar for a' Aberdeen ! This excited a laugh, and I went immediately on deck, saying to myself as I went along, I would not advise you to stay long here, or perhaps you may have to pay for your bootless boast. As I arrived on deck, a post chaise drove along-side, which was soon followed by an- other. These contained some of our cabin passengers, who instantly embarked on board the ship. A passen- ger who stood beside me, exclaimed, ‘‘ Here they come in style ! " Said I, “ O, I don’t mind that, if the ship would float to let us out, and save us the trouble of trot- ting back and fore to town. He answered, “Well, she is going to get a bold trial, for here comes the Paul Jones to give us a pull.” I answered, “ O, I hope she will go.” He observed, “ If you would pray, perhaps she would start of.” I answered, “ I believe I have done that already.’' Said he, “ Well, do it again.” A laugh among those around us, put an end to the dia- logue. I then went to the side of the ship to see if she was likely to float ; and at this time, I had only been about five minutes on board. The ship moved instantly, and off* she went, when a frightful scream proceeded from below. “ Now,” said I, “ that is the frightened lady who would not go out with her will, but fate has de- creed that she must go without it.” And sure it was so ; for when the vessel moved, the lady screamed out, “ O, the ship’s aff ! O, what will I do ? O, how will I get ashore ?” The ladies in the cabin endeavoured to com- fort her, but all w^as in vain : her grief was inconsolable. She presently came on deck, and had a respectable ap- pearance, being dressed in black silk, with a mourning bonnet. Many w^ere the consolations off*ered, but to no effect ; she mourned over her misfortune all the time she THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 7 was on board, and was so frightened, that I really be- lieved she would be the worse of it. The assembled multitude on shore walked to the point of the New Pier; and when they could go no farther, the gentlemen waved their hats, and gave three loud cheers, which were returned from the ship. At this time, many were to be seen with a tearful eye, or a trembling lip, while others were cheerfully promenading the deck ; perhaps with the joyful expectation of being happier in the Land of Liberty, than ever they could expect to be in their native country. In a short time, the tow-boat left us ; and soon after, the pilot-boat was ready to depart, and two others, which came after the ship with passengers. Such as had come to see friends or acquaintances safe out, had now the painful task of parting ; and no doubt, many had to take that long and last adieu — never in this world to meet again. This scene was very affect- ing to many. When all were ready to descend to the boats, a general shaking of hands commenced, and many a farewell was exchanged. O, this cruel word ! It was truly distressing to some ; and more so to me than leaving sight of my native land. The following lines are beautifully descriptive of this powerful word : “ Fareweli that fond and love-fraught word Whose talismanic power Awakens many a thrilling chord Which slumber’d till this hour. “ In prayer the warrior utters it, Before the battle fray ; In tears the sailor mutters it, Then wings his bark away.” I was almost entirely unacquainted with all on board ; consequently, I bad no one to look after, and as few to 8 JOURNAL OP A TOUR look after me, if any thing should happen that required mutual assistance. Some of the passengers were now promenading the deck, arm in arm, while others were getting sea-sick, and some vomiting. Most of the cabin-passengers were walking on deck ; and I followed their example, being afraid the confined air of the cabin would make me sea-sick. As I was passing the cabin door, a man came up, followed by his wife, whom he was leading by the hand. He accosted me thus : ‘‘Ah, Tamas, Fm byas ill, and been throwin* ! Lard, Sir,, what hae ye been about, that ye dinna pay some atten- tion ? I have been down wi* her till Vm near as ill as she is, and I dinna ken what to do wi’ her/’ This was such a salutation as nearly dumfoundered me, especially as he spoke with as much commanding asperity as i would have expected from a master to a serA'ant who had neglected his duty. This was rather more than enough to any person, and by far too much for a bache- lor to relish. It is all very good to pay a dutiful atten- tion to a wife, if she is a man’s own ; but when one pays a marked .attention to another man’s wife, he is fre- quently rewarded with a shower of recrimination, which is no great compliment. However, as I did not wish to give ofience, I simply observed, that I had been walk- ing on deck, lest I should get sick myself, and walked off. Notwithstanding, when walking along, I could not help saying to myself, — “ things are come to a pretty pass ! If the man does not think his wife worth his own care, how, in the name of presumption, could he imagine that a young bachelor would think her worth his attention ?” As night approached, a fine breeze came off the land, and Aberdeen began by degrees to disappear in the haze, while the curtain of night was slowly spread, as we gazed on the distant land. THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 9 The sails being hoisted, the breeze was making the ship sweep along, and bearing us away from Aberdeen, endeared by many recollections, when the following beautiful lines occurred to me as very applicable : — “ Our bark is now upon the sea, She leaps across the tide ; The rushing waves dash joyously Their spray upon her side. As if a bird upon the breeze, She spreads her snowy wings ; And, breaking through the crested seas, How beautiful she springs ! And they who sail upon this bark, Have turned a yearning eye To the fair land which seems a line Between the sea and sky* And, as that land blends with the sea, Like clouds in sun-set light, A soft low voice breathes on the wind — ‘ My native land, good-night.’ ” After it became dark, the evening was very cold, so the most of the cabin passengers went below, and I among the rest. One who sat near, asked me how I was standing out? I answered, Quite well, if I had a cup of tea."’ Some of the rest said the same. In the meantime. Captain Barclay came into the cabin, with a forward, bustling air, and said, “ Aye, good folks, we have now got you out at sea, and the first thing we are going to do, is to starve you; but,” continued he, “ I have had such a w^ork to get things in order, — the men are nearly all drunk.” One observed, “ I saw some of them appeared to have plenty.” Plenty !” said he, them, but they are mostly all drunk.” Af- ter this, he rang the bell for the cook, as we had not B 3 JOURNAL OF A TOUR la the honour of a cabin-boy, he appeared. " Well, cook, have you boiling water ‘‘ Yes, Sir.’ Well, good folks, would you choose tea, or some fish with bread and butter ?” Almost every one in the company answered, they would choose to have tea. Orders were given as follows : " Well, cook, go and get ready some tea — and you may roast some fish, too, so we shall have part of both, — now, be quick, mind.” “ Yes, Sir. He then addressed the company thus : Every thing is out of order to-night ; but, now that we are out at sea, I shall cause things be arranged; if we had to-morrow, you shall see things in style.” Some of the company observed, that time would soon come ; while I whisper- ed, I wish we saw some of that order and style you talk about ; but, really, your urging it so pressingly, is by no means a good omen.” In a little time, the cook returned with the boiler and tea-pot. He now asked the master for the keys to let him get out the tea. The answer was this, O, don’t mind to-night ; bring the fish and some bread and butter, — we’ll not be waiting tea.” The passengers looked at each other, and some of them looked at me. I confess I was very ill pleased, but as no person spoke, I did not choose to be the first to find fault. The fish were soon on the table, and the greater part of the company began to partake ; however, I did not choose fish, and was very careless about every thing else, when there was no tea. The master having gone on deck, several of the passengers complained for want of the tea ; when I asked why no one spoke out, and desired to have it, each excused himself by saving, he thought some one else would express a wish to have the tea brought, and then he would have done the same Tuesday 5th , — A considerable number of the passen- gers were sea-sick this morning. In our state-room THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 11 there was a man who had a favourite dog, and, without asking any gentleman s leave, he had the indiscretion to bring it to the cabin ; and after that into the state- room, to sleep at his bed-side. The dear animal took its master’s clothes for a bed, and was reposing there at day-light ; but strange to relate, the poor dog had got sick during the night, and vomited on his master’s pan- taloons, both up and down, till a pretty mess they were. This was what he justly deserved, and no one pitied his condition ; but some of the gentlemen hinted, that this was not a proper place to keep dogs in, so the poor dog was banished from the cabin, and obliged to take up its quarters in the hold, among company of its own kind. At eight o’clock I got out of bed, and went on deck. By this time we were past Peterhead several miles. There was some land in sight, but Mormond-Hill was the most conspicuous object in view. Some of the pas- sengers on deck were sick and vomiting. I felt sick, but did not expect it would last long, and, when break- fast was ready, went to the cabin with the rest, expect- ing to get a cup of tea ; but to my woeful disappoint- ment, coffee was served out ; and our worthy master never asked if any of the company would prefer tea, or if there were any of us who did not drink coffee at all. No, no ; these civilities were not in fashion on board the Brilliant during my time. When the coffee was being poured into the cup, I suspected that if it was tea, it had got plenty of the leaf. As soon as a cup was hand- ed to me, I tasted it, to be sure of what it was ; and as I was a little sick, and have a great aversion to coffee at all times, I had presently to make the best of my way to the deck, when, in a short time, I vomited all I had in my stomach ; and what is still more wonderful, the propensity continued nearly as great as ever. When 12 JOURNAL OP A TOUR breakfast was over, some of the cabin passengers came on deck ; among whom was Mr. Macdonald of Montreal i and as I was seated beside him at the table, he observed me retire without a morsel of breakfast. He walked up to me, and said, ‘‘ O ! what is the matter with you — are you sick ?'* Being answered in the affirmative, he began to jest a little, and said, ‘‘ O ! you will be the worse of your full breakfast I now perceived he was endea vouring to cheer me a little ; but I was too sickly to be enlivened by any thing ; so I presently went below, and was glad to turn into my berth, clothes and all. The state-room I lay in would have been very quiet, had it not been for a sickly child ; but it squalled on the whole day without intermission. A married man lay in the berth below mine, and we were all that were confined to bed in this apartment; and long indeed did we think the day, for a moment’s quietness we could not find, for the roaring creature ; and, to speak without prejudice, now when that flood-tide of misery is over, I really think it exceeded all I ever heard ! In the afternoon, the other sick passenger spoke to me and said, “ Bless me. Sir, did you ever hear any thing like this ?” The answer was, I do not think I overheard anything equal to it.” “ Equal to it ! bless me, for this beats all.” Here a con- versation took place, and I forget exactly what we said . but I somehow think we expressed a wish that the crea- ture was in the land of the leal ; and no great wonder that we did. However, if we really had, it was much the same as if we had not, for it had no efiect whatso- ever. When night came, the passengers and I who were confined to bed, and had got no meat all day, were to take a cup of tea when supper was brought ; and being in the cabin, we reasonably expected to get some attention paid to us when we were not able to sup. In THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 13 this however we were disappointed, for the good order which was promised the evening before did not reach us. No one was sent to ask if we would either take meat or drink, and the ladies informed me it was the same in their state-room as in my own room. Wednesday 6M. — Things are much the same to-day as yesterday. The gentlemen were all got up before breakfast, except the passenger and myself, who were still very sick. Now we had been confined twenty-four hours, during which time no one had ever been sent to inquire for us. When breakfast was over, the cook offered us a cup of coffee. My neighbour accepted of one, but I did not ; however, I informed the cook that I did not drink coffee, but would take a cup of tea. One of the pessengers had mentioned in the cabin that I wanted a cup of tea, and in a little time he came into the state-room, and told me that the cook had got orders to make tea, so I would get some very soon. Now, every one would not be willing to believe that it re- quired so much time to make this cup of tea as it really did : and very likely it had got some extraordinary pre- paration, for it was not got ready this day. Notwith- standing, it is but doing justice to the cabin passengers to say, that they got ready a cup of tea from their own private stock, which was sent me about mid-day. The sea was now a little rough, and a great many passen- gers on the half- deck were sick and vomiting. As there were only plain boards betwixt them and our state- room, it was easily understood what was going on amongst them. Indeed, we often heard but too well what was doing in the steerage, because we were fre- quently disturbed with the noise they made ; but their strange questions, answers, and observations, were fre- quently very amusing. About sun- set, my bed-fellow 14 JOURNAL OF A TOUR came into the state-room, and informed us, that the ship was near the Pentland Frith, but as it was very rough, she would be tacking all night. He informed us also, that there were other five vessels moving about, but none of them attempted to enter the Frith. Thursday^ Tth . — This morning, the gentlemen are all up to breakfast, except one and myself. When breakfast was over, the master paid us a visit ; and af- ter asking how we felt, inquired if there was any thing we would choose to take } The other passenger an- swered, that he would take a cup of cofibe and some bread ; and I answered, that I could not take any thing, unless I got a cup of tea. He observed, that cofibe was better for me, if I could take it ; however, I assured him that I could not take it. He then answered, ‘‘ Well, well, but I will order the cook to get some ready, and bring you presently.** Having thus said, he took his departure, but you need not be surprised that this day yet none was prepared. About twelve o*clock, when there was no appearance of it, Mr. Milne caused some to be got ready in the cabin, and sent to me. In the afternoon, two of the cabin passengers came into the room to see me. The first who entered vras Mr. Dun- can. He informed me that we were passing through the Frith in company with other seven vessels, some before, and seme behind; and, added he, O, if you were but able to come on deck, to see the ships and land.** I was very anxious to see the land we were so near, also the Frith and the ships ; but I regret to state, that I was not able to accomplish it. In the meantime, a married woman came in to inquire why I was not upon deck, and addressed me thus : “ O Tamas, if you were but up ; we are in the Frith, and you w^ould see ships, and land, and every thing so pretty.’* I answered, that THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 15 I would be glad to get up, but it would not do. Said she, O, they are all up now but Miss Beattie and yourself ; an' ye'll be forced to rise, for ye canna be waur than I ha’ been ; and besides, ye might die for hunger here, and no one notice you, for there is no one minded here, unless he be able to rise and go to the table. Mercy on us ! they have never sent to ask if I would taste meat or drink, since ever I came on board, which is now three days." I answered, It has been much the same here ; although I have been asked what I would take, there has not any of it been brought yet." She resumed, “ Guid preserve us ! they will let us all die for want, unless we be able to rise and go to the table. I was never at sea before, and I need not think long to be again." I observed, that every ship was not like this ; that I was certain of, as I had been at sea with the London smacks, and sick passengers were taken great care of there." She answered, Well, people told me he was a careful master we were going with, but if we don't see more of it, we will not be able to give him that character. A careful farmer would pay some attention to a horse or an ox which was not able to rise, and give him the offer of meat or drink once a day." At this time, some of the passengers came in, and told us we were through the Frith ; one of them observed, it was a fine breeze, and he hoped we would not be long detained in this prison; when all earnestly wished it might be so. Friday, Sth . — The wind still fair. Mr. Duncan told me the ship was running eight knots an hour. This morning there was tea at breakfast for all in the cabin ; and one of the passengers brought a cup for me, with some bread, which was the first of the ship's provisions I had been offered since Monday night. I got out of 16 JOURNAL OF A TOUR bed this afternoon for a short time, and went on deck. We were in sight of the Lewis, and could see the high towering mountains on the north-west of this island ; and we were only four miles distant from the rocks call- ed the Flannen Isles. Soon after I arrived on deck, I began to vomit desperately, and I think none can tell what the real nature of sea-sickness is, but such as have suffered it in the extreme. In vain I wished we were back at the Frith, that I could get on shore. I would willingly have lost the passage money, if the master would have put me safe to land. The passengers en- deavoured to comfort me a little, and one said, “ O, you may soon get better ; although you were near land to get ashore, you would still be vexed afterwards, and never be satisfied that you had not prosecuted your journey. All this sounded very well, and I willingly believed it was good sense ; but I was afraid of not sur- viving the voyage, and in that case the journey would be lost. In a few minutes, I returned to bed again, and about sun-set, they told me we were losing sight of land. ' Saturday, 9M. — Nothing worth notice this morning; the sickly child is still cr^'ing. Mr. Duncan tells me all the passengers are up except Miss Beattie and my- self. This day, one of the passengers in our room complained to the master about the noise which the child made ; and insisted on having it removed to an- other apartment. Now, there was a married woman who had a berth in the larboard side, among the ladies, consented to exchange berths, and come beside her hus- band. It was not found convenient to put these altera- tions in force this day, so there was not a whisper of it heard in the cabin. Sunday, \0th , — I got up this morning about ten THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 17 o’clock, and went on deck. The wind was unfavour- able and the sea rough, and frequently a breaker wash- ed across the deck. The prospect around the ship is the rolling waves in every direction, only relieved by a sight of some solan-geese and sea-gulls. I was verv anxious this day to be in company with the rest, as some amusement was to be had among those who were pretty well ; but contrary to my desires, I was obliged to re- turn to bed. About mid-day, the master stepped into the room, and informed me of the alterations which were proposed, of putting all the children to one side. This I willingly agreed to, in expectation of enjoying more quietness ; but my reader will be surprised when I say that the change was like “ out of the frying-pan into the fire ! ” Every one will he ready to say, he would not have expected this ; so say 1 ; however, in a little time, I shall observe how matters went on, after the new arrangement. A little before dark, I heard a bustling among the trunks, which was the removing of some baggage, and the squalling boy ; this could not fail to yield a peculiar delight, however short time it might last. Into this berth we now got a married wo- man, whose husband was wdth us before ; but they had no children to be troublesome to any one. Monday, Wth , — The weather is very mildj to-day, and a dead calm prevails. Such as had guns went on deck after breakfast to shoot among the gulls, which were flying about in great numbers. As the weather was very pleasant, some of the passengers insisted that I should start and go upon deck, at the same time as- suring me that I would be better. With the expecta- tion of getting the better of the sea-sickness, I rose and went on deck among the rest. It was very amusing to see how near the birds came to the ship ; they were fre- c 18 JOURNAL OF A TOUR quently within shot, and many a one was fired at them ; however, I was almost persuaded they were proof against shot, as they never appeared to take any notice of it, and none of them came down. We are now on the Atlantic Ocean, and although no wind, there is a continual motion in the water here, which makes a ship roll so irregularly, that it is much worse for making a passenger sick, than a good fair breeze. I stayed about two hours, and was then obliged to retire. Before leaving the deck, I observed several of the passengers had been sea-sick again, and some of them were vomiting. I now went to bed not expecting to recover, till we reached land ; and, with xery little intermission, was confined to bed for three weeks. What happened during these three weeks, I shall sum up in as few words as I can. It must be acknowledg- ed that there is a great sameness in a sea life, so I shall not detain my reader with a long and uninteresting de- tail of things not worth mentioning ; but content my- self with a few of the more particular accidents and e- vents which took place during this disagreeable vovage, and then hasten to the interesting scenes of Quebec, which will be more agreeable to the tourist, the scien- tific man, and the man of business. During these three Aveeks, we had eighteen days of head winds, any excep- tion being too trifling for notice. Day after day, when word was brought to the state-room that the wind was still a-head, my only consolation was, that perhaps we would be driven on the west coast of Scotland, when I expected to be relieved from sea-sickness. Sunday, 17 th , — This was the second Sabbath which we had been at sea. In the afternoon I rose and went upon deck ; most of the passengers, both from the cabin and steerage, were there before me. Those of the half THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 19 deck were thickly planted along the weather side of the ship. This group consisted of men, women, children, and dogs. Some were careful to keep hold of the ropes which hung on the bulwarks, while others were wholly taken up with the passing amusements. As there hap- pened to be a strong breeze of wind, once in a while the ship rose a little on the weather side ; but at length there came a gust of wind, when the ship took a lurch to the leeward, and down went numbers of the group, but especially the youngsters, of whom scarcely one es- caped tumbling or sliding across the deck, till their progress was stopped by the capstan and hatch. It was truly amusing to behold this strange catastrophe, and, being so unexpected, it had so much the better ef- fect, when both old and young, great and small, were pitched heels over head in grand confusion. Some were no doubt hurt, but still there was a general burst of laughter fore and aft. The frightened children scream- ed, the dogs barked, and here the rout was equal to the uproar. It was long before quietness began to reign ; the cabin passengers escaped without a share of this dreadful discomfiture, and they laughed till sides of steel would nearly have split. Some of them, to show their sprightly wit, made such pertinent observations on what had passed, and the strange figures some of these made in the tumble, that all attempts at composure were useless for a long time. “ Whenever silence began to reign, Pert wit made laughter burst forth again.** During the week after this, I was very unwell, and had only been once out of bed, when Sabbath returned. Every day to me was long and lonely. All the rest were able to rise and go on deck when they pleased. 20 JOURNAL OF A TOUR except Miss Beattie and me, and we had not seen each other as yet. The married woman who was now in our state-room, happened to be no favourite among the ladies, and this was a great misfortune for me, because she spent the most of the day either at or opposite my bed-side ; and withal she had such a flippant tongue, that it scarcely would stop. This woman generally be- gan the day with finding fault ; and when she got up, something was sure to be wrong. Then she would be- gin to exercise my patience, and say, ‘‘ Tamas, are you going to rise — ye maun rise — ye canna be waur nor I am — O ! my head tho’ — O ! but Tm real ill — now just rise, Tamas, for ye canna be waur nor me — come, just try/’ &c. &c. Now she was perhaps as sickly as me, but the world could not make me believe it, because she could easily talk so much more. I wished to have an end of this discourse, and w^ould frequently remain si- lent ; but even this had not always the desired effect, for although not answered by the monosyllables, yes or no, yet the lecture was frequently prolonged to a great length ; unless Mademoiselle happened to be in very bad humour, and then she was silent for a day or two, which was a great relief. At length Sabbath ar- rived, and that relieved us a little from the sickening sameness which had prevailed all the week before. Sunday y 24^4. — This w^as the third Sabbath w*e had been at sea ; and it was easy to understand there w'as a strong gale of wind, and a heavy sea running ; so we were like to be pitched out of our beds before daylight. My bed-fellow was always first up among the cabin passengers ; so when light appeared, he rose and went on deck. A little after he went out, a heavy sea came over deck with such a pelt, that our state-room rang. The cabin door being open, the water rushed down from THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA* OJ it; the two beds opposite to mine were close to the stair ; some water run through the seams of the upper berth, and a large quantity found its way into the low- er. Now it was here the married woman lay. The haze of the morning shed an unusual gloom in our dim- ly-lighted apartment. When the water rushed down, I looked out of my bed to see if any one was moving. Presently the woman showed her frightful aspect : she had a cap far down in front, and a coloured hand- kerchief above. This, together with a withered face, reminded me of a witch in the Traced v of Macbeth, when she addressed me thus : “ O Tamas, weUl be all drowned ! the water is rushing into my bed.” I sim- ply observed, “ I could not help that.” She answered, “Ye’re dry up there, but the water is running about my clothes and blankets, till they’re all at the float — O that w’e beet to come frae hame to be guided this way ; but we’ll be a’ drowned ! ” Mr. J. Macdonald looked from the berth above, and said, “ Aye, this is sad work.” As soon as his eye caught mine, we both laughed to hear the woman make such a sang, and lay back in our beds to elude observation. Now I would sympathise with any one in distress ; but this woman had used me with such unmerited petulence, that I really believe she would have been well ducked before I could have pitied her. In a short time Mr. Duncan entered, when one asked, “ O Sir, where were you in the time of yon great plash?” He answered, “On the half-deck.” “ Aye, and what thought they of it there ? ” “ O, they thought it was a terrible plash, and some of them thought we were going to the bottom. In a short time the cook was heard in the cabin, and the tone of his voice declared he was in very bad hu- mour. The reason of this we soon learned, which was, c 3 22 JOURNAL OP A TOUR the doors of the cook-house were open, the heavy sea shipped at that place had broken through upon the cook, drowned out the fire, washed the pottage out of the pot, and swept them overboard, with some yards of the bul- warks at the same time. Hovv breakfast was got over I cannot tell, as there were two or three weeks about this time, that I neither tasted tea nor coffee. Any thing I took was at dinner, so the rolling of the ship did not disturb me much at the diet hours. Before dark, I learnt that the children had been kept in bed all day, as it was dangerous to let them up, lest they should be tossed about and hurt.* They however became very fretful because they had not got soup, which w^as sure to be turned over in the bed about them, if they had got any. However, to content them, the servant girl brought a panful of broth, to be warmed on the cabin fire. Our state-room door was fastened, to keep it from dashing open and breaking with the rolling of the ship. Now the married man was sitting with his face to the door speaking to his wife, who was in the opposite side from me, in her bed. She asked him what w^as doing in the cabin } He had just said, “ O, very little, some broth warming for the children,’^ — the ship took a hea- vy lurch, the girl fell on her back to leeward across our door with such a pelt that her feet rose from the floor — the pan fell ofl' the grate with a clash — the noise made me start to my elbow — the man before my bed burst out, “ be here! Christie’s over, and the pan’s come dovv^n, ha ! ha ! ha ! — the broth’s to the high- lands, ha ! ha ! O mercy.” There was at this time a burst of laughter in the cabin which I never heard ex- celled ; and it continued loud and long, every one ap- pearing to enjoy a hearty laugh, except the girl herself, \vho was very crusty, and quickly left the cabin. After THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 23 this, the weather became more settled, and towards the end of the week, we were favoured with fine easterly breezes, which swept us along at the rate of eight and sometimes nine knots per hour* During this week, the master played on the violin almost every evening. This amused the cabin passengers a good deal ; and al- though in bed, I heard and enjoyed it as well as the rest. Besides, we had a highland piper in the steerage ; and every night when the master began to play in the cabin, he began to play the bagpipes on the half-deck. Now my berth was immediately betwixt the two : so I heard both equally well, I cannot say it was pretty when both played together ; but when the one com- menced a tune as the other finished, I thought that had a fine effect. Before this time, I had seen all the cabin passengers except Miss Beattie, who was still confined to bed. Our number amounts to 18, including five children. The steerage passengers number 57, which makes 75 passengers in all. The ship's company amount to 23, makins: no fewer than 98 souls on board. Now the young ladies, and four young gentlemen, with Mr. and Mrs. Milne, were all very polite, kind, and obliging. However, there were other three, a married couple and a middle-aged man, of a quite difi^erent cast. They seldom sat in the cabin, as there was no sociality be- tv/een them and the rest. Besides, they were always displeased with something or other; they never got meat, or drink, or any thing else, to their liking. And it was another great fault, that the rest did not rise to ofier them the best seats in the cabin. You see here how people would wish to be preferred. Now, the married couple were never pleased half a day all the time they were on board ; and the ladies said to myself ‘24 JOURNAL OF A TOUR that the other fellow ought not to be in a cabin, which I allow was true ; for I certainly think he was as low a petulent fellow, as ever I was obliged to be in company with. These three would sit in the state-room where I lay, for hours together, giving all the various hues and shades, which they thought belonged to the colour of each character ; so all the passengers in the cabin underwent the scrutiny of this conclave, who were so tenacious of their rights to judge of real character, that they w’ould not allow it to any but themselves. In short, they were clippers of reputation, and coiners of scandal, for which each appeared to have a patent : and in my opinion, they were fully qualified to grant diplomas to all who chose to follow the practice. My situation here was very unpleasant, but although I was vexed to the heart to hear them talk so disrespectfully of their superiors ; yet I dared not add a morsel of dry advice, or hint a reproof ; pooh ! the entire gunpowder of their genius would have been fired on the instant ; and when this is the case, one ought to beware of the explosion. Sunday, 1st May . — We were now on the Great Bank, and enjoying mild weather. One of the passengers in- formed me, that the dense fog had made all the sails so wet, that they were dropping down water ; and some of the girls on the half-deck who were fond of Mav-dew, had been catching the drops to wash their faces, in ex- pectation that it would improve their beauty, while the rest laughed heartily at the whimsical notion. Monday, 2d . — This morning sea-sickness had entire- ly left me, so I rose and went to brealcfast, which was the fii st time I breakfasted in the cabin. The weather was very pleasant, and I kept on deck a considerable part of the day. In the com*se of the forenoon, Miss THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA, 25 Beattie appeared on deck, when she and I saw each other only for the first time, although we had been four weeks on board. None of the rest in the cabin had been confined to bed by sea-sickness, above two days ; so it was not to be wondered at that the girl and I thought the four weeks very long. I was now like one let loose from prison, and enjoyed the society of the passengers, who were very social and cheerful, with the exception of the three individuals formerly men- tioned ; and I can assure my reader, when I was able to be out of bed, that I never went into court when these three sat upon characters. In the course of this week, there was sometimes a dance in the afternoon ; which afforded a great deal of amusement, and tended to beguile the monotony of the voyage. On Thursday the 5t1iy we were within a few miles of land, upon the south coast of Newfoundland. The ap- pearance of the coast was exceedingly bleak and bar- ren, with a great deal of sandy rock. Not a tree, nor even a shrub was to be seen, except a few blighted bushes on one spot. There was plenty of snow' visible among the mountains towards the interior, but none near the coast. This afternoon there was a dance. The master and Mr. Davidson the mate played toge- ther in fine style. The cabin passengers danced first, and when they w'ere tired, the steerage passengers and sailors commenced with great glee. With few exceptions, all turned out to see the ball as it was called ; not only the young people and chil- dren, but even the old wives, some of whom I had ne- ver seen before, were planted round the deck, and laugh- ed at the young men and maidens, to see how they leap- ed and sprang. Even the young children smiled and laughed at the cheerful scene, and all appeared to enjoy 26 JOURNAL OP A TOUR the general rejoicing. Tlie dance was kept up till a late hour, when the Aurora Borealis or merry dancers seemed to join the train, and were playing beautifully in the north. The evening was mild, the sea calm, the wind moderate, and the firmament bespangled with stars ; and every object around us seemed to smile as much as the warring elements had previously frowned; and I heard some of the passengers say, that their spi- rits were raised ten degrees higher, by the beauty of the scene. One evening after this, as the young peo- ple were sitting round the fire, it was proposed to make a drink of water gruel, as the water was turned so very bad that it would scarcely drink at all, without being boiled. We were unwilling to let the master know of it, lest he should take ofl’ence ; and as he sat conversing with Mr. and Mrs. Milne at the other end of the cabin, he had no view of the fire, as the seat before it was closely filled. When the gruel was made, and each had a cupful boiling hot from off the fire, up started the master to go on deck. Mr. A. Macdonald placed his on the seat betwixt his knees, one of the young ladies put hers in her lap, and spread a handkerchief over it, the other two followed her example, while I slipped mine under a small stool which I sat upon. As the master reached the top of the stair, a smothered laugh began to break forth, when each said to the other, “ O what would you have done if your gruel had turned over } I think no one can relish a cup of gruel so well as those who are at sea ; and after having been out several weeks, and, poorly of for drink, then a cup of gruel has a fine relish. AVe quickly finished our drink, in order to get the cups past before the master returned ; not that we had any certainty that he would have found fault vvith us ; but we were afraid, because one cold THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 27 night before when the ladies had put on a good fire, but none at all more than was sufficient, as soon as he entered the cabin, he began, ‘‘What a heat! — my goodness, you keep this cabin as hot as the devil’s kit- chen ! ” Now, this and such like language, made us want in silence what w’e had a just right to. Having said so much, some may think that I wish to find fault without occasion ; but the truth is, I seldom want oc- casion, and I am very willing to allow" every thing to be right which really is so. I acknowledge the meat w’as excellent, and plenty of it ; but the drink was in my opinion, very insufficient, and most of the passengers were displeased about it. On one occasion, we got two bottles of porter, among the thirteen passengers and the master, which I suppose few will think was too much. When the porter was withheld, a glass of rum was allowed to such as chose grog ; but sometimes we w"ere allowed neither. One of the passengers and I bargained to get as much rum as we could drink, and as it was the master w"e settled wdth, we reasonably ex- pected the terms would be faithfully fulfilled ; but, lest we should have taken too much if it had been good, the careful man provided himself with rum of such bad quality, that there w"as no great danger of our drinking too much ; for I protest that I never tasted such bad stuff of the kind, in my life, and I did not drink in whole, the full of a wine-glass of it during the voyage. Wine I could not get to buy, although I w-anted it when sick- ly ; and it was not the fashion here, as in some of the ships, to allow wine and brandy every day to cabin pas- sengers. Of the latter vre got none, and my share of the former ^vas only three glasses on the whole voyage. I cannot help remarking, that we got neither mustard, vinegar, nor pickles. No, no, these things were not 28 JOURNAL OF A TOUR fashionable on board the Brilliant, although often called for. It was even with great difficulty that we obtained pepper. I should not have mentioned these things, had it not been for a fracas which happened one day. This took place when a strong breeze was making the ship to roll, so that down came a canister from a shelf in the master's room, and as it struck the floor near the open door, ofi* went the lid, and out came the mustard ! One of the gentlemen said, “ Well done, canister ! and well done, mustard ! we cannot get you to our pork and po- tatos, but you are just come to say that you are there." The farce of making the water gruel formerly mention- ed, was among the young ladies and gentlemen, as there happened to be none of the married people about the flre-side at the time. Now, there were faces smiling with joy, and I believe eyes sparkling with love, which inflamed the poetical genius of some admiring swain, who wrote a love poem on the day following, which was found in a young lady's berth, a little after dinner. There was much inquiry made as to who had put it there, but no emissary could be traced ; and at last it was concluded that the letter had found its way through the opening of a seam. It was handsomely sealed, and addressed to the young lady who slept in the berth in which it ^vas found. There was no signature at it ; and, although I have frequently heard some of the verses, yet I scarcely remember any of it, except a few lines at the close, which were as follow : — “ O ! if to me you prove unkind, It surely >vill be cruel ; To none on earth I’ll tell my mind, But turn to >vater gruel.” Soon after this, as the ship was sweeping through the THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 29 Gulf, we were surprised by a strange voice in the cabin, as the light began to appear in the morning. This was a pilot, and it was good news to hear of him ; as we were sure the ice was gone, and the river open, when the pilots were found so far out in the Gulf. He soon informed us, that the river had been open for three weeks, and ships going up to Quebec all that time. We were now cheered by the hope of getting to the end of our voyage in a few days. After the pilot came on board, there was another ball, in which he heartily join- ed ; and in my opinion, he was the best dancer on board the ship. Wednesday y llM. — We w^ere now within sight of land on both sides of the river. Towards the interior, on the south side, we observed a great range of moun- tains covered with snow, resembling the clouds so much, that the whole appeared like a cloudy drapery skirting the horizon ; which I really believed it was, till I view- ed it with the glass. This afternoon there came a strong breeze down the river, which made it impossible for the ship to beat up ; so the pilot thought best to take shel- ter in Trinity-cove, v/here we arrived at four in the af- ternoon, beside the Ottowa of London, which had ar- rived there before us. We remained here on Thursday all day, and started a little before midnight. During our stay, several other vessels took refuge beside us, till the wind should cease. This bay is on the north side of the river, and is found convenient for ships to an- chor in. By the chart, it is rather more than two hun- dred miles below Quebec, and about two below the light-house at Bald-Mont-Point. On the day we aiTived here, some of the passengers went ashore in the skifl'-boat, to shoot ducks, of which there were great numbers flying about ; but they only D 30 JOURNAL OF A TOUR frightened some of them, without killing any, and were obliged to return in a short time, as it became dark. Thursday, \2th , — This day the boat was put ashore with passengers, and I went among the rest, to get a draught of water. The thick forest was close to the flood-mark here, and no appearance of settlements or clearances, so far as we could see. I found it too toil- some a task to go into the woods, as the snow reached my waist, only a few rods from the shore. The water found here was apparently from the snow, and not from a spring ; and so, coming from among the roots of the trees, and the fallen leaves, it was very harsh tasted, and I was afraid to drink it ; but a few handfuls of snow relished very well. Soon after we reached the shore, a boat arrived with passengers from the Ottowa of Lon- don, and almost every one had a gun except myself. The ducks flocked in hundreds, and the shooting made the woods ring ; but all the game our company brought to the ship was two small snipes. An aged farmer, a passenger in the Ottowa, stayed near the boats with me, and I soon learnt that he had come with the intention of purchasing land in Canada. He had possessed with his family, three large farms in Herefordshire, which I shall afterwards take notice of. I learned from this farmer, that a cabin passage from London to Quebec was fifteen pounds, and the cabin very comfortable, the fare excellent, with a profusion of spirits and wine. In the mean time, our boat was carelessly left at a small rock, which was the first we came to, and a channel separated it from the main land. It was dry as we went ashore ; but the tide flows very rapidly here, and it was just beginning to rise as we arrived ; so, in the course of two hours, this channel was neck- deep of water, and the boat ready to drift THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 31 from the rock, as it was washed over with each suc- ceeding wave. Every one was so much taken up with the shooting which was going on all along the shore, that the tide rising betwixt us and the boat was not ob- served for some time. On the alarm being given, two young men within call instantly came ; the pilot was on shore, and advised them to wade in and catch the rope. They laid off some of their clothes, and in they went, having a hold of each other ; but before they had gone half way, the water came up to their arms, and as neither of them could swim, they endeavoured to return, and with difficulty reached the shore, I was very glad to see them on shore again, whatever should become of the boat, as my chief companion happened to be one of them. Mr. Davidson the mate was on the shore about a mile off, and observed the boat drifting off ; so he came presently to see what could be done. He imme- diately threw off his clothes, and at the risk of his life, swam to the boat, and brought her to the shore. All this trouble was occasioned by our not being aware how rapidly the tide flows here. The boat which came from the Ottowa was taken back, and during this time, a se- cond party from that ship went on shore. They pur- posely landed on the farthest side of a river which fell into this bay, nearly two miles north from our landing place. On arriving, they kindled a blazing fire of wood, and the rest of their passengers who had come out with the first boat, went to see what was doing at the fire. On their near approach, they discovered the party re- freshing themselves with a hearty dinner ; but, to their unspeakable disappointment, a river was betwixt them. The dinner party laughed heartily at the trick they had played their fellow passengers ; and to provoke them still more, they drank their health in wine. A fellow 32 JOURNAL OF A TOUR passenger of mine was witness to this scene, and thought it highly amusing. As soon as a few of our company were collected, we were glad to return to the ship, but the greater part remained till nearly dark ; and a little lifter, we set sail again, followed by the Ottowa, and other ships that were in the bay with us. Friday, \Zth , — This morning we were about half a mile a-head of the Ottowa, and nine square-^rigged ves- sels, all within two miles of us. The wind was right aft, and a fine breeze. It was truly pretty to see how they spread their snowy wings, from the deck to the sky-sails, in order to get a-head, or at least, to keep up with the fleet. About mid-day, the Ottowa had got on a strong press of sail, and began to advance nearer to us. This was the finest rigged vessel I saw in the river, and perhaps the prettiest I ever saw ; so it might be said when she drew near to us and passed, that she was truly a gal- lant ship.’' Our passengers were all on deck, enjoying the beautiful scene around, and they cheered the spright- ly vessel as she passed. This was the only ship which left us on the voyage, and few could keep up with our own. Before dark, we had left all the rest except three ; and in the course of the day, had gone past some which were now far astern. As the river contrac- ted, the fresh water began to appear, about a hundred miles below Quebec, when the passengers observed the water brackish ; but below this, it had every" appearance of the main ocean, excepting its circumscribed extent. On the north side, the thick forest appeared close to the water’s edge ; a few white dwellings were seen, thinly spread along the south shore, but immediately in rear* of them, the country was in the state of nature, cover- ed over with wood, and mountain rising above moun- THOUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 33 tain, softening into shade, as far as vision could reach. This night, at dusk, we were within ninety miles of Quebec. Saturday, 14M. — This morning the wind was still fair, and the prospect around delightful. We were about four miles from the south shore, and the beauti- ful white villages were distinctly seen. Each has a neat church, surmounted with a spire. They are from six to nine miles distant ; and the lengthened street of the one seems to meet with that of the other, forming a continued village along the river side, for forty miles below Quebec. The beautiful villages on the south, with the river in front, and the woodland gently rising in the rear, together with the high woodland mountains bounding the north shore, running along the margin of the river, with a few white dwellings, and the beautiful wood-capt islands, present a scene so picturesque and pleasing, as cannot fail to yield sensations of gratifica- tion and delight to the man of science, the tourist, and the man of pleasure ; and I may add, to every one who is capable of receiving impressions through the medium of the eyes. When I went on deck this morning, we were about forty-five miles from Quebec. At first, the villages on the south are but small and somewhat de- tached ; while, farther up they are much larger, and closely settled all along, which gives them an unique appearance as of a continued street. On reaching the Island of Orleans, the prospect on the north shore be- gins to disappear, as the ships generally go up the south channel. This island is situated in the St. Lawrence, four miles below Quebec. It is twenty-four miles long, and in some places four broad, and is altogether a very pleasant spot, being both fertile and thickly settled. Towards the upper end of the island, the channel is 34 JOURNAL OP A TOUR contracted to less than a mile- On passing through here, the lengthened village of Beauport opens to view on the north-west shore ; and, on a rising ascent some miles in rear of this, appears the village of Charlebourg^ and the Indian village of Lorette, with their beautiful churches and towering spires. Immediately on passing the Island of Orleans, the Falls of Montmorenci open in full ,view on the north shore. The river which forms this beautiful cascade, is rapid in its course for some distance above the projecting leap, where it is twenty- five yards broad, and falls a perpendicular height of nearly eighty yards into the St. Lawrence. This is a grand and beautiful sight, when viewed with the glass, or otherwise, from a situation where it can be properly seen ; and its white dashing waves tumbling over the main pitch with magnificent grandeur into the reservoir below, afibrds a rich treat to all who admire the stu- pendous works of nature. The St. Lawrence below the city forms a spacious bay, while the high land on the south conceals the town and the course of the river, till reaching Point Levi on the left, when Quebec ap- pears instantaneously, only about two miles off ; and the course of the river is seen opening to the south, where it is about one mile broad. The Lower Town skirts the rock along the margin of the river ; the Up- per Town stands upon the rock, surrounded by walls. Upon the east side is seen the Mountain Street, wind- ing up the rock, which leads from the Lower to the Upper Town. From the north-east, to the south ex- tremity, the barrier can be traced all along with part of the Upper Town. Ctmmencing near the north-east is the Grand Battery, over which appears the French Ca- thedral, and the Seminary. A little to the south from the head of Mountain Street, is seen the castle of St- THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 35 Louis, where the governor resides. The garden is adjoining, over which the monument of Wolfe and Montcalm is distinctly seen ; after which appears the flag-staff and telegraph, within the Grand Fort. All the fine houses, public edifices, churches, and spires, are covered with tin, shining like silver, which gives to the exterior a beautiful and brilliant appearance. Thus, to the stranger who approaches by the river, to the north-east, the city of Quebec rises at once in bold gra- phic relievo, receding to the west, where it is conceal- ed by the castellated interior. About three in the af- ternoon, we arrived at the ballast ground, opposite Cape Diamond ; after a passage of forty days from the harbour of Aberdeen. In a short time, two boats were lowered to go ashore with passengers, and I went among the rest. As the ship had not cleared the custom-house, we were not al- lowed to take our luggage ashore ; so the master order- ed us to be at the boats by seven in the evening, to go on board, that we might be ready to go in company to the custom-house on Monday morning, and get all clear at once, to save him trouble. At the hour appointed, the master came, when all were arrived, except three. However, we were immediately conveyed to the ship ; and I allow that the rest ought to have paid more at- tention. Sundaij, I5th . — Before I got up this morning, one of the gentlemen in the cabin came to inform me, that the three men belonging to the steerage who \vere left on shore, had just now returned to the ship ; and a se- rious occurrence had happened to one of them. It ap- peared that all the three had been oveijoyed to find that they were now in the Land of Liberty, and there- fore commenced taking a hearty glass. They had tip- 36 JOURNAL OF A TOUR pled on the whole night in rather a low house, so that in the morning they were all more or less drunk. One had been in a scuffle, and got his head cut, his face dis- figured, and his eyes dreadfully blue, insomuch that scarcely any one could know him ; and to his further woe, he had been robbed of twenty-two sovereigns, which were all that he had ; and thus he was left with- out money to take him to the Upper Province, the place of his destination. So much for running riot among the lowest grade of society ! This day all our cabin passengers went ashore, ex- cept myself. Some were going to church, and others to amuse themselves ; but I felt rather weakly to join the company. This was the quietest day I had seen on board the ship. The mates were both excellent fellows, and the men generally very agreeable ; so the absence of the master reminded me of an agreeable change of weather. A little after sunset, the company arrived, and. Sabbath though it was, some of them had strong symptoms of having taken an extra glass. In the course of this night, it happened that a speaking upon deck was loud enough to awaken the passengers in our state- room. I did indeed hear it myself, but took no notice, till the rest began to talk of the ship's being in danger. Tliere was presently a grating below, which was ge- nerally taken to be the vessel on the anchor chain, as she swung with the turn of the stream. In the mean- time, we heard the following expression, — she is down,” wdiich some took for she is going down.” This alarmed some very much, and they raised such a fuss about it, that perhaps I was a little uneasy mvself. However this soon ceased, as the noise was over in a very short time, and all believed the ship was in perfect safety, as the watch had not called at the cabin, to THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 37 alarm the master ; so we heard no more of this till morn- ing. Monday, \&th . — This morning before I started, one of the passengers came to inform me the cause of our alarm in the night ; which was the circumstance of two men in a boat, passing from the shore to their own ship beyond us. On their near approach to our vessel, they called out to the watch on deck, and were answer- ed presently ; but as they did not manage the boat with more propriety, it was supposed they were under the effects of liquor. So, on passing a-head of our vessel, the rapid stream brought them slap-dash on the star- board bow, and swept boat and all below the ship. The current of the St. Lawrence here is very strong. The pilot informed me that it was generally observed to run per hour, about 5;^ miles up, and 6^ down, and also that the spring tides rise to the height of 22 feet. I have also learned from the citizens, that the tide goes far above this, and is observed as far as Three Rivers, which is ninety miles above Quebec, and half-way be- twixt it and Montreal. The usual way in which the river runs here, is about five hours up and seven down. After breakfast, about a dozen of us went to the Cus- tom-house. Those who had goods were under the ne- cessity of employing a broker, acquainted with the manner of transacting business there. Some of them reside in the immediate vicinity of the Custom-house, and are of great service to strangers who choose to em- ploy them. This relieves one entirely from the trouble of entering, and filling up papers, as a broker will do the business for a trifle, and at the time appointed have the papers ready, when one has only to call for the permit to land the goods, and settle for the duty. The duty charged on foreign goods imported here 38 JOURNAL OF A TOUR varies from 2^ to 30 per cent. Several articles of goods, wares, or merchandize of British manufacture, are charged 2^ per cent. But fruits of all kinds, gums, medals, musk, macaroni, ochre, olives, opium, ostrich feathers, paintings, pearls, pitch, pickles, precious stones, prints, quicksilver, rhubarb, saffron, sarsaparil- la, senna, scammony, tar, tow, turpentine, vermillion, and vermicelli, are all liable to a duty of 7^ per cent. ; and the following articles, viz. books and papers, lea- ther, linen, locks, musical instruments, watches, and wires of all sorts, are charged 30 per cent. The duties here on foreign goods are subject to change when the Legislature shall think fit. The above are correctly copied from the Table of Duties payable at the Port of Quebec, and published in the Quebec Re- gister, for the year 1831. In the afternoon, when I received my permit and re- ceipts, I presently went to Moir and Heath’s Wharf, as our boat lay there. Eight of the passengers were arrived, but not the master. We waited a considerable time, and about five o’clock, when there was no appear- ance of the rest, some one proposed to hire a boat from the shore, to take us out to the ship. All consented to pay a share, so a boat was soon found, and off we set. At this time, the tide was going down, and the men were rather unfit to pull against the current, and the passengers were as unfit to help them. The boat was pulled up in shore a considerable distance, and then let out into the stream. In the meantime, a large raft of wood was observed coming right down upon us, the strength of the current having swept it past the coves where the lumber is usually deposited ; so it was found necessary for us to return to the shore again ; and this being done, the raft was quickly past. On going THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 39 out into the stream a second time, we soon found that the men on the oars were by no means sufficient for the task, and while trying in vain to get out to the ship, the rapid current was bearing us down. In the mean- time, the raft came betwixt a ship at anchor and the wharf, and there it stuck, and in two minutes time, we were dashed on the upper edge of it. There were a- bove thirty men on the wood, and on seeing us in im- mediate danger, about the half of them came running to our assistance, as the current threatened to sweep us under the raft. At this moment, the accident which happened at our own ship the night before, rushed on our minds, and some of them exclaimed, Well be down ! we have not a moment to live ! v/hich brought an icy coldness over my frame. However, we were soon relieved from this perilous situation, by the gene- rous exertions of the men who came to our assistance, and pushed the boat on shore to dead water again. I was now almost distracted to get ashore, and two others earnestly entreated to be put on shore ; but the rest were determined we should all proceed to the ship. At this instant, I was almost resolved to leap into the ri- ver ; but we were in twenty feet water at least, and be- ing entangled with clothes, little chance remained of reaching the shore in safety. They again pulled up in shore a considerable distance, and then put into the stream, intending to cross as far as the ship, by the time that the current had brought them down to the place. On our way out, there were several ships to pass ; so in passing one of them, our boat was carried slap-dash on the bow. This was another unpleasant situation, but it appeared to be a day of trials, and the more patiently they wear borne, the better. The men caught hold of the anchor chain, when the boat swung. 40 JOURNAL OF A TOUR and struck the ship with violence. The men on the ship presently came to our assistance, and kindly offer- ed to take us on board. This offer, however, was not accepted, as we were now near our own ship. Our bold adventurers now, with a strong effort pushed off the boat, and in a few minutes, we arrived at the Bril- liant, glad to get safe on board, after a passage so dan- gerous and difficult. In a short time after this, the master arrived with an officer from the Custom-house; but none of the luggage was, as yet, out of the hold. There was only one of the young gentlemen in the ca- bin going to Quebec, but he happened to be my favour- ite, and he was still on shore. All the rest were going up the country, and a steam-boat was to come along- side the ship for all the passengers and luggage going to Montreal. When the master observed me, he de- manded why I was not ashore. The answer was, “ Be- cause I have not got my trunks out of the hold, nor passed the Custom-house.” To this he said, But it, why don’t you get them ready, and go ashore To this I made no reply, but went presently on deck, as I could not believe he meant any thing but a jest, or that he was drunk. Surely no one will think that I could bring up the trunks, when it requires four men to haul weighty boxes on deck, wdth an apparatus for the purpose. Moreover, I believe no one on board would have taken the liberty to order the men to throw open the hatches and draw up luggage, without being expressly sent by the master himself. It is my decided opinion, that, in painting a scene, the plain and simple truth is ever preferable to the most elaborate lucubra- tion ; whereby it is deprived of its true colours, w'hich alone can give it value. It is therefore my desire to describe plainly and honestly ever\’ thing that came THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 41 under my notice, as near as I can recollect. Although I am sorry to say the following scene redounds little to my honour, yet veracity ought to be studied, whatever be its bearings, and it will always reflect honour on those who deserve it. We had frequently desired to have vinegar and pickles on our voyage out ; but here there was a rare dish of these ingredients prepared for me. Besides the above, I believe there was in this ex- traordinar}^ composition, a large quantity of salt and pepper, with some lemon juice, and a little recri- mination, which made a fine sherbet. I must now ob- serve how this rancorous burletta took place. It be- came known on the passage that I intended to return from Quebec to Aberdeen, as I had no expectation of being able to prosecute my Tour to the Upper Province. The master spoke to me privately respecting this, and said that if I chose to go home with him, he would en- deavour to make me as comfortable as he could ; add- ing that there would be much more convenience in the cabin, when there would likely be no more passengers but myself. All this sounded very well, and the two mates were so kind, that I trusted they would pay me some attention, if I was confined to bed. Under these circumstances, I intended to return with the ship, and acknowledged it to the master. He then desired me not to take my luggage on shore at all, and to stay on board the ship myself during the time she was loading. He also observed, that the state-room in which I was at that time, would be thrown open with the half-deck, and filled with lumber ; but, to remedy this inconveni- ence, he would give me the state-room occupied by two young ladies ; and as they were going to friends in Quebec, they were sure to leave the ship whenever she arrived. I gratefully thanked him for his kind ofter ; E 42 JOURNAL OP A TOUR but might have saved myself the trouble of that, had I known the sequel. As I had some goods to dispose of in Quebec, it was proper for me to go on shore at least till they were sold ; but this I had never told him, nor any one else, except the young man who was going to lodge in the same house with me. Now, while I was looking for my companion to come from the shore with a boat to take our luggage away, up came Barclay with a face as red as a lobster, and addressed me in the fol- lowing unceremonious manner : you, Fowler, why aren’t you taking your luggage and going ashore } what the devil are you waiting for ? ” I was quite a- mazed at such an unexpected storm, as it burst forth like the explosion of a powder magazine. As soon as I got in my word, I answered thus — “ Sir, I am ready to go on shore whenever the boat goes, — ” interrupted he, “ the boat goes presently,” “ and my luggage is ready when you get it up from the hold, and that you know is impossible for myself.” He now said, ‘‘ Come, get ready and begone ; what do you wait so long for } ” The answer was, I wait for my luggage, and if I had been allowed to take it ashore, I would have been gone before this time ; and I did not expect to be driven off without my trunks at any rate.” To this he vociferat- ed, “ Get your trunks ready presently, and begone from the ship, or I’ll be if I don’t throw them over- board.” This was now beyond a jest, so I presently went to the cabin for the little things I had there, to- gether with my blankets and pillows, and brought all on deck, and I was now determined to leave the ship with the first opportunity, regardless of the trunks, for fear the next irruption should be tantamoimt to a tor- nado. The men were at last ordered to haul up all the lug- THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 43 gage in the hold, and lay it on deck. In the mean- time, to my unspeakable joy, who should arrive, but my companion from the shore ? I soon informed him what had happened since I came on board ; so he presently got his trunk passed, to return with the boat which brought him out. This boat was too small to take my luggage, and it was also improper to go away and leave every thing I had lying upon deck, so my companion prevailed upon me to stay a few minutes, till he could return from the shore with a larger boat, to convey the luggage safely away. In the meantime, some of the half-deck passengers, who were going to stay at Que- bec, had got their trunks into the ship’s boat to go on shore ; and, as soon as mine were marked by the officer, they were put among the rest, without asking my leave. I now expected to lose my companion without remedy, but as fortune would have it, he observed the boat coming from the ship, and was waiting our arrival at Moir and Heath’s wharf. It was now become dark, and we could find no way of getting the trunks remov- ed to a lodging-house, at so late an hour ; but, by chance, we got them into a storehouse, where we land- ed. QUEBEC. We now went to lodgings, and ordered some supper, when we began to talk of the trouble people have to undergo in travelling abroad ; and we thought we had been very unkindly dealt with, to be obliged to let our trunks remain on board the whole day, and then have them laid on the wharf after it had become dark, when it was out of our power to get a carter to remove them ; 44 JOURNAL OF A TOUR and all by the carelessness of the master, who had scampered in the town till night. After supper, we were shown into a room with three beds, two of which were occupied, and the other appointed for my com- panion and me. As every thing looked comfortable, we expected to get a good sleep, after the discomforts of a long sea voyage ; but in this we were disappointed also ; for no sooner had we begun to get warm in the bed, than dozens of the wicked creatures called bugs were running about us. It was impossible for us to sleep in such a wretched place, as we had never endur- ed such an earthly la peste of vermin in our life. We turned and scratched, and turned again, but away they would not, because they were too numerous. At length ray neighbour began to get a nap, but I felt little in- clination to sleep in such restless company. However, I determined to have a clean bed afterwards, if such a thing could be had in Quebec. During this night, as there was no sleep for me, I rose to take a drink, and also took a walk in the floor for a change, as it was taking nothing from my rest. However, when 1 was going to bed again, my bed-fellow in a semi-sleep had forgot where he was, and w’ould not let me set a foot in the bed. When I attempted to go near, he pushed me ofl*, and called out, “ Halloo ! what do you want ? — this is not your place, — keep off*, I say, — you can’t be here.” I was now obliged to speak aloud, and began thus — ‘'James, what do you mean ” The rest now heard the farce, and a laugh burst forth, which awaken- ed the young man. This began the conversation among those who were not inclined to sleep, and some of us talked for amusement till the morning light began to shine from the east, when we were glad to get on our clothes, and be out of such an ungracious place. My I’HROlTGH BRITISH AMERICA. 46 companion, and a carpenter who was a passenger with us, wanted to take a boat from the shore and go to bid farewell to their friends on board the ship, as they were going off in the course of the day to Montreal. I went with them to the wharf, to see if a boat could be had, which was soon got. I however refused to accompany them, as I thought it would be improper for me ever to set a foot on board Barclay’s ship, as I was afraid of a semi-rodomontado, and by such unhealthy air I might catch the vapours. This was at five o’clock in. the morning, so I took a walk along the shore until the boat should return. In the meantime, I was surprised to see ladies and others going to market at this early hour. Shops were open, and business carrying on, the same as at eight o’clock in Aberdeen. The Cana- dians rise very early in the morning, and a great many of them have marketing done, and breakfast ready, by seven in the morning. This is a very laborious task to those who are at some distance, as it is necessary to make market every day in summer, not even Sabbath excepted ; as neither meat nor vegetables would keep from one day to another, owing to the heat of the clime. The market commences at sunrise every day all summer, and continues till afternoon through the week ; but on- ly till nine o’clock, on Sabbath morning. A little be- fore seven, my companion returned to the shore. When he left the boat, he addressed me thus — “ O, Sir, what do you think has Barclay done to the passengers who are going to Montreal } ” The answer was, “ Indeed, Sir, that I can’t tell ; but I suppose he is capable of giving them a restless night.” Said he, “ That he has done, and I shall tell you how. They were ordered to be all ready by the middle of the night, to start with the steam-boat. This caused them pack up their bed- E 3 46 JOURNAL OF A TOUR ding, and put all on deck to be ready ; so, in such a bustle, it was necessary for each to look after his own luggage ; and thus they were kept lying on deck all night, without blanket or pillow, as they expected the steamer every minute from twelve till daylight, when they learnt she was engaged to come about twelve at noon ; and this they thought was a particular mark of Barclay’s respect for the whole company.” We now proposed to return to our lodging-house, and take break- fast ; and then to look about and take new lodgings before dinner. On our way, we passed a drunk fellow sleeping on the edge of the pavement, with a cloth bon- net beside him. He was exactly in the same place and position when we passed two hours before. This we soon learnt was no uncommon thing here. So much for the sobriety of the people. When we arrived at the tavern, we soon got breakfast ; and as it was the first I had ever seen in America, it may be interesting to some, to say what it consisted of. When the cloth was laid, a tea tray was brought, with morning cups ; next there came plates, knives, and forks ; then beef- steaks, followed by potatoes with great coats and all. My companion and I looked at each other, as neither of us had ever seen beaf- steaks and potatoes at a break- fast before. After the beef-steaks were distributed, each was handed a cup of tea. As soon as the tea was drunk, the cup was presently filled a second time, and when the steaks were finished, away went the plates, knives, and forks. By this time, there had arrived plenty of bread and butter ; and soon after, eggs to finish oflf with. Upon the whole, the breakfast was better than the bed, although it looked better than it proved ; but still we thought there were better things in Quebec. When breakfast was finished, w^e settled THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 47 our bill and went off ; but being strangers, we were at a great loss to know where we would be comfortable. However, in this we were obliged to take chance. Now, it is no difficult matter to get a tavern in Quebec of al- most any description, either of the highest, lowest, or middling cast. It is computed by some, that every third house at an average, is a tavern. This, I think, gives far too great a proportion for the Upper Town ; but I am convinced from actual survey of different streets, in the Lower Town, that a full third of it con- sists of spirit shops and taverns. However, after pa- rading the streets a while, we happened to stop at one, where things were much more to our liking. The house looked cleanly and comfortable, and we soon learnt that there were no young family, which was a great comfort to us; as I believe few young men would choose to lodge where there are children. At one o’clock, we were shown into a dining-room, where a- bout twenty gentlemen were assembled to dinner. Every thing here appeared to please. At one end of the room there was a sofa, at the other a sideboard, and in the middle stood the dining table, stretehing be- twixt, with chairs along each side : while the flowing- drapery, and the purple-painted walls, helped to check the too bright glare of three large windows in front. When dinner was over, I retired to the bed-room. My companion was going out on business, but I was very sick and not able to accompany him ; and this I believe was the effect of drinking a small quantity of water in the forenoon. I went early to bed, hoping to get a good sleep, as 1 had got none the night before ; but w^as so bad that I slept none till daylight. We had each of us a bed here, both clean and comfortable ; but, for some days after our arrival, I was rather poorly. 48 JOURNAL OP A TOUR Neither the food nor the climate agreed with me, and the weather was become very warm ; so I could not keep from drinking a mouthful of water at short inter- vals, and this was worse than all the rest. One even- ing I went out to call on a friend, who presently ob- served that I was in bad health ; so he spoke of the water, and informed me that strangers, when they arrive at Quebec, generally suffer from the effects of bad wa- ter ; “ but,’* said he, “ others have been as bad as you are, from the same cause, and the best remedy I know is to take a hearty glass of brandy, and, my warrant for it, you will soon get better after that.’* As to the truth of this I was rather doubtful, and being low in spirits, was little raised by the hopes of finding relief from what was proposed ; but my friend was confident, and produced some excellent brandy in order to make a trial. Now 1 was easily persuaded to take a glass, but he was one who loved to see his guests healthful and cheery ; so he insisted on me taking a little more from time to time during the evening, and I had seve- ral glasses before I left ; so I allow that, as he said, I slept better, and felt better afterwards. The reason why I mention these circumstances is, to warn emigrants arriving at Quebec, that they ought to be very cautious about drinking the water ; and I state not merelv mv own experience, having been in conversation with se- veral of the citizens, who informed me that after residin®* here for a dozen of years, they cannot drink any of the water. Some drink the water with a little spirits in it, and I believe feel nothing the worse of it. Certain it is, that constitutions are differently affected by it ; but to be candid, I always required to take an equal quantitv of wine or spirits to the w’ater, and if I drank it other- THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 49 wise, was sure to be ill soon after. A medical gentle- man of high respectability informed me that to boil the water would take away the bad effects of it in a very considerable degree. This I believe is perfectly correct, but there are hundreds who cannot get this done ; so it is necessary for all who visit Quebec, to be very care- ful on their arrival not to drink much water ; and my advice is to drink none at all without spirits or wine in it, and even little with that ; because it often proves very distressing, and sometimes fatal. The river is the best water here. There is some comes from the rock, but few make use of it ; although cold and pure, it is very harsh tasted and unhealthful. It is also too hard to be used for washing, and rain water is always em- ployed for this purpose, when it can be had. As the river is warm in summer, ice is used to cool the drink- ing water in gentlemen's houses, and all the fashionable hotels ; but, notwithstanding its being warm, it is bad for washing, and as bad for making tea. All those therefore who love a cup of excellent tea, may be pre- pared to bid farewell to that refreshing beverage, as soon as they enter Canada. HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF AMERICA. This country was discovered by Christopher Colum- bus, a Genoese, in the service of Spain. He sailed from the port of Palos, and on the 12th October, 1492, arrived at the Island of Guanahani in the West Indies, which he found peopled by Indians ; and this was the name they gave the Island, but he called it St. Salva- dor. It is situated in lat. 25^ N. long. 75® W. Americus Vespasius, a Florentine, sailed in the ser- 50 JOURNAL OF A TOUR vice of Spain in 1497, and made extensive discoveries along the east coast of the south continent ; and, having discovered a large tract of the country, he had the ad' dress to get it called America, after himself. These discoveries were made while endeavouring to get a westerly passage to China and the East Indies ; and with the same intention, Henry VII. of England fitted out John Cabot a Venetian, to discover a north-west passage ; but, to his disappointment, was surprised with a sight of land on the 24th June, 1494, which he cal- ed Newfoundland; and, after sailing along a consider- able part of the coast, he returned to England. In the year 1499, Canada was discovered for Henry VII. by Sebastian Cabot, son of the former ; consequently, Britain claims the honour of discovering Newfound- land and Canada. However, this countr\’ was neglect- ed by the English ; but the French thought the fisher- ies were valuable, and made an attempt to settle a col- ony on the coast of Newfoundland, about the beginning of the sixteenth century, but this did not succeed. About the beginning of the seventeenth century, a French merchant named Pontgrave sailed to Canada, and purchased furs from the Indians, which he sold to great advantage. The French soon discovered that a settlement in Canada would be very advantageous for the fur trade. In the year 1600, and the 42d of Queen Elizabeth’s reign, a company in London obtained a chai'ter for the exclusive trade to Hudson’s Bay for furs. The first British settlement in North America was in Virginia, where a colony commenced to settle about 1583. This province derived its name from the virgin Queen Elizabeth, in whose reign it began to be settled ; and the first town built by the English on the western THOUGH BRITISH A.MERICA. 51 continent was James Town. It was commenced in the year 1607, and called after James VI. of Scotland, and L of England, in whose reign it was built. The state of New York was settled by the Dutch, and the first town built here was Albany, which was commenced in 1610. The city New York was founded by the Dutch in the year 1615, under the name of New Amsterdam. The state was captured by the English from the Dutch in 1664, and took its name from James, Duke of York, brother to King Charles II. to whom it was granted. In short, all the United States belonged to the British Empire, at the time when Canada was transferred to it. Pontgrave was despatched from France in 1603, for the express purpose of settling a colony upon the banks of the St. Lawrence. The first settlers had many dan- gers and difficulties to contend with ; and, as may be supposed, the progress of improvement advanced but slowly at first. This brings me to the subject more immediately to be treated of. On the 3d of July, 1608, Quebec was founded by Champlain. This presently be- came the capital of all Canada, and continues to be the capital of Lower Canada to the present day, and is the greatest commercial port in British North America. 1 must not omit to mention that there is a street called after Champlain to perpetuate his memory, in honour of his having founded the city. This street leads from Mountain Street to the south, by the skirt of the rock under the Castle. At length this became a thriving colony, and continued in the hands of the French until the year, 1759, when General Wolfe was sent with an army to reduce the city. On his arrival, he found it strongly garrisoned with French troops under the com- mand of the Marquis de Montcalm. It was on the 52 JOURNAL OF A TOUR night betwixt the L2th and 13th of September, that the British General and his army gained the heights on the south-west of the ramparts, about two miles distant. The battle commenced about ten o’clock in the morn- ing, and continued nearly two hours. Both command- ers were mortally wounded, and General Wolfe expired at the moment when the British soldiers were shouting for joy of the victory. The French gave way, and left the field in possession of the British victors ; and, on the 18th, a capitulation was made, when Quebec be- came subject to the British government, which was fol- lowed by all Canada. Thus ended the empire of the French in North America. A valuable and extensive tract of this country now belonged to the British crown, and continued until the year 1774, when the British Parliament passed an act, laying a duty of threepence per pound upon all teas imported into North America. The colonists considering this a grievance, denied the right of the British Parliament to tax them. Accord- ingly, deputies having been sent from the various co- lonies, they assembled at Philadelphia, where they held the first general Congress, on the 5th September, Thus the Americans stood up for their rights and pri- vileges, although at the expense of a bloody wav. However, they overcame every opposition, and at last obtained that independence which they so magnani- mously struggled for ; setting a noble example to everv other nation in the world, which suffers oppression from a tyrannical government. The Congress declared the colonies free and independent states on the 4th July, 1776. Thus the British lost the thirteen United States ; and that which at present belongs to Britain is the four Provinces of Upper Canada, Lower Canada, New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia ; with Bermuda’s THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 53 Islands, Cape Breton, Prince Edward’s Island, and Newfoundland. The Americans made several attacks on the Canadas, but without success. At one time they reduced Montreal, and proceeded to Quebec on the 31st December, 1775. General Montgomery with his troops made an attack on the south extremity of the Lower Town ; while General Arnold and his party made a simultaneous attack on the north. However, both were unsuccessful. The former and his Aides-de- Camp fell as they were advancing to the assault ; and the latter, with some of his party, were taken prisoners. DESCRIPTION OF QUEBEC. This city and its environs are divided into five difibr- ent portions. That part which is within the walls, is called the Upper Town, and can be approached solely by five gates. On the east, at the head of Mountain Sti’eet, is the Grand Prescott Gate, through which pass- es the commercial business of the Port. There are two avenues by which the walls can be entered on the north ; Hope Gate, near the north-east extremity, and Palace Gate, adjoining the Artillery Barracks and the Intendant’s Palace. These two gates are on that side of the city washed by the St. Charles river. On the south-west, which is the land side, the city is appi cach- ed by two entrances, namely, St. John s Gate, and St. Louis’ Gate. That part which is called the Lower Town occupies the space between the foot of the rock and the river, extending from the wood-yard on the north, to Diamond Harbour on the south, a distance of two and a half miles. All that portion which lies west of the wood-yard, and bounded on the north by the river F 54 JOURNAL OP A TOUR St. Charles, is known by the appellation of St. Roch's Suburbs. Adjoining St. John's Gate, and north to the Cote St. Genevieve, is denominated St. John's Su- burbs ; and the buildings along the road from St. Louis Gate, are called the St. Louis Suburbs. The whole stands on the peninsula between the rivers St. Lawrence and St. Charles ; the junction of which forms a beauti- ful bay betwixt the city and the Island of Orleans, a distance of four miles. The breadth of the bay is two miles immediately below the to^vn, but it expands to- wards the Island, where it is much broader. The Grand Battery, on the east corner of the ramparts, commands a delightful view of the bay, and the surrounding coun- try. The Martello Towers on the land side of the town deserve notice. They are four in number, about half a mile from the fortifications, and each about one third of a mile distant from the other. They are forty feet in height, and nearly as many yards in circumference at the base. These forts are sufficiently strong to re- sist a cannonade, and the platform on the top is armed with great guns, to defend an attack from the land side. Tlie fortifications around the Upper Town are very strong. The height of the rock on the east adds great- ly to the defence of the town if attacked by water ; while double walls protect the land side. The highest part of the rock is the south point within the walls, whereon the Grand Fort is built ; and from this the town has a considerable declivity to the north barrier, where the promontory has greatly declined in height. The circuit of the wall which encompasses the Upper Town is two miles and three fourths ; but a consider- able portion of the interior is taken up with the religi-* ous and military establishments. THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 55 TOPOGRAPHY OF THE CHURCHES. THE FRENCH CATHEDRAL Claims notice in the first place. It is situated on the east side of the market place, and fronting the same. This is a strong stone edifice, but claims little praise on the score of elegance. The spire stands on the south side, and gives to the whole an unhandsome appearance. The vestibule is on the west, and the in- terior is richly decorated with paintings, sculpture, and gilding. Strangers can be gratified with a sight of the interior at any time, as the doors are open all day- light. This superstructure is built of stone, and mea- sures seventy yards in length, by thirty-six in breadth. EPISCOPAL CHURCH. This handsome edifice is a little to the south of the market place, and bounding on the west of the Place d’ Armes. It is an elegant modern structure, surmounted by a beautiful spire. The walls are of freestone, and measure in length forty-five yards, by twenty-five in breadth. The grand entrance is on the west ; the in- terior is handsomely fitted up, and furnished with an organ of superior excellence. The roof and spire are covered with tin ; and the building is surrounded by an enclosed area, planted with poplar and other trees, which gives to the whole a very pleasing effect. This church is considered the finest specimen of Canadian architecture in Quebec, and has latelv been supplied with a chime of eight bells. 56 JOURNAL OF A TOUR PRESBYTERIAN KIRK. This is a plain unadorned edifice, surmounted with a fine spire. It is a stone building, and situated in St. Anne Street. The entrance fronts the north-west, and is approached by a flight of steps, which lead to a double vestibule. THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH OF THE CONGREGATION Is situated at the north end of the Esplanade, front- ing the west. It is a stone building, neat, but unadorned. TRINITY CHAPEL. This place of worship is in St. Stanislaus Street. The front is very handsome, and encloses a triple vesti- bule on the west. The steeple is very singular, and has rather an uninteresting appearance ; but the interi- or is neat, and furnished with an excellent organ. ST. JOHN^S CHAPEL. This building is very plain, and fronts St. Francis Street. The entrance is in the middle, with two win- dows on each side, and five in the upper row. It is occupied by the Congregationalists. METHODIST CHAPEL, UPPER TOWN. This chapel is a small building, situated in St. Anne Street, opposite the east end of Angel Street. It is quite plain, and comprises no object deserving peculiar attention. METHODIST CHAPEL, LOWER TOWN. It stands in Champlain Street, fronting the east, and THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 57 is of recent erection. The building is of stone ; and although plain, it has a very handsome front, and vestibule. ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH, LOWER TOWN. This edifice is on the south of the market place, front- ing the north ; where the vestibule is approached b}' a flight of stone steps. The building is of stone, and surmounted with a small spire. Neither the exterior nor interior exhibits any thing deserving the attention of a stranger, except the ceiling of the roof, which is handsomely chequered with squares of about one foot each, ornamented with a gilt rosette in the middle of each square, the effect of which is very beautiful. This is commonly called the Irish church. It is by no means sufficient to accommodate the congregation. However, they have bought a plat of ground in the Upper Town, whereon is to be erected another edifice of ample di- mensions. ST. ROCHAS CHURCH. This is a Roman Catholic church, pleasantly situated in St. Roch’s Suburbs. It is of recent erection, and very capacious ; but the windows are by far too small for the size of the building, a circumstance which gives to the whole a heavy appearance. The interior is hand- somely fitted up, and richly adorned with paintings of the various Roman Catholic symbols. EPISCOPAL CHURCH AT POINT LEVI. This is a handsome edifice on the east bank of the St. Lawrence, opposite Quebec, where the river is but one mile broad. It stands on a promontoiy fronting the city, and has a fine tower ornamented with castel- 38 JOURNAL OP A TOUR lated tun'ets. This church is the most conspicuous ob^ ject at Point Levi, and, when viewed from Quebec, has a picturesque and pleasing effect. PHILANTHROPIC INSTITUTIONS. HOTEL DIEU. This establishment was founded in the year 1637, by the Duchess of Aiguillon, only 29 years after the foun- dation of the city. It is intended for the reception of the sick poor ; and is under the management of a Superieure, thirty-eight Religieuses Professes, three Novices, and two Postulantes ; in all, fort\’-four. These premises, with an extensive garden, occupy a large portion of the Upper Town, extending from Palace Street on the west, nearly to St. Flavian Street on the east ; and from Collins Lane on the south, to the bar- rier on the north, where the garden wall is parallel with the rampart. This spacious edifice is three stories high, of a quadrangular form, with wings. The long- est range extends about one hundred and thirtj’ vards in length, by seventeen in breadth. That portion which extends to the west is two stories high, measuring fifty yards in length, by sixteen in breadth, and is the wing occupied by the sick. Among those in penury and distress who find relief in this asylum, are a consider- able number of the sick emigrants who are daily arriv- ing at the port during the navigable season. The cha- pel of the Hotel Dieu is a plain building ; but it con- tains some fine paintings, of which a view may be ob- tained, on application to the chaplain. THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 59 URSULINE CONVENT. This institution was founded in 1639, under the pa- tronage of Madame de la Pel trie, for the instruction of young girls in the various branches of female education. It is under the control of a Superieure^ fifty Jieligi- euses Pi'of esses y three Novices^ and one Postulante ; in all, fifty-five. It was established at the early period of thirty- one years after the foundation of the city. It is situated between Parloir Street, and St. Anne Street. The edifice forms a pentagon, and is two stories high, measuring thirty- eight yards in length, by twelve in depth. The church is adjoining the east side of the gate, on Parloir Street, where it extends one hundred feet. This building is by no means attractive in its ex- terior appearance, but the interior is richly decorated with fine paintings. Strangers are admitted to view the paintings, if they apply to the chaplain, whose apartments arc on the right of the entrance. On the left is a store of rare and beautiful specimens of needle- work, done by the religious ladies, and put there for sale. GENERAL HOSPITAL. The philanthropic institution called the General Hospital was founded in the year 1693, by M. de St. Vallier, who was then Bishop of Quebec, and is destin- ed for the reception of the poor who are sick, or afflict- ed by disease. This establishment is conducted by a Supey'ieure, fifty-one Religieuses Professes^ two Novices, and two Postulantes ; in all, fifty-six. It is situated on the south bank of the river St. Charles, about a mile west of the fortifications. The building is of different elevations, and forms a parallelogram of 60 JOURNAL OF A TOUR nearly equal sides, measuring seventy-six yards in length, by eleven yards in breadth, with a wing extend- ing from the south-west corner, forty yards in length, by a depth of fifty feet. There is also a small chapel adjoining this establishment, and a detached building expressly appropriated for lunatics. Great order and regularity are preserved in all the departments, and the interior is kept exquisitely clean. THE SEMINARY. This seminary of education was endowed in 1663, and is situated on the north-east comer of the Upper Town market place, adjoining the cathedral. It is a stone building of three stories high, forming a figure of three sides, each measuring above seventy yards in length, by forty feet in depth. It is surrounded on the north-east by a large garden, which extends to the site of the Grand Battery ; and the whole occupies a space of seven acres. The institution is subdivided into the grand and petit seminaire, and was originally establish- ed solely for the education of Ecclesiastics ; but this restricted system has long since been abandoned, and it is now open to all who choose to comply with the regulations. There is a museum belonging to the se- minary, which contains many rare and valuable curiosi- ties. On the left of the entrance, there is a neat cha- pel ; but the external appearance is less attractive than the interior, which is highly decorated with numerous paintings. Visitors are admitted on application to the chaplain, and those desirous of viewing the museum must apply to the professor of Mathematics. THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 61 CIVIL EDIFICES. CASTLE OF ST. LOUIS. The castle is the residence of the governor general. It is situated in the Upper Town, a little to the south of the Prescott Gate, on the verge of the rock, where the perpendicular elevation is two hundred feet above the river, to the base of the edifice. The side which fronts the east has a fine piazza, level with the ground floor, and extends the whole length of the building. It projects a little over the rock, and is supported by nine stone pillars. This handsome structure is three stories high, and measures one hundred and sixty feet in length, by forty-five in depth, with small wings. It is built of stone on the west side, but framed of wood on the east, where it overlooks the rock. The walls are painted yellow, and the roof covered with tin, which gives to the whole a light and elegant appearance, from every point of view. The entrance is on the west from the Place d’ Armes. Here the prospect is much ob- structed by buildings in front, but towards the east, it commands a fine view of the bay and river, with an ex- tensive range of the surrounding country. Stranger? approaching Quebec by the river could easily distinguish the castle from any other building, by its piazza, and three rows of windows with thirteen in each range. PARLIAMENT HOUSE. This edifice was erected for the Catholic Bishops of Quebec, who at present reside in the east wing. It is situated at the head of Mountain Street, in the Upper Town, and occupies the space between Prescott Gate 62 JOURNAL OF A TOUR and the Grand Battery. Since the Canadas became subject to the British Crown, it has been converted in- to a Parliament house, and is occupied by the Legisla- tive Council, and House of Assembly. This ancient building is constructed of wood, and is now in a de- lapidated state. It is of different elevations, and other- wise defective in geometrical symmetry. As it is very unfit for the purposes to which it is appropriated, it has become necessary to have a structure of more am- ple accommodation ; consequently the Legislative Coirn- cil has granted a sum of money for the erection of a spacious edifice on the same site. The new building is to be of stone, and the west wing is already far advanc- ed. When the whole is completed, it will command a fine view of the bay and surrounding country, and will be a great embellishment to the east side of the city. INTENDANTS’ PALACE. The Palace is situated close by the Gate and Artillerv Barracks, and it is from it that Palace Street and Gate derive their name. This ancient edifice was occupied by the French Intendants, and it was the residence of the Marquis de Montcalm, before he and General Wolfe with their respective armies fought the battle of Quebec, which terminated in the death of both commanders. It is now in a very delapidated state, and is only taken notice of on account of its former dignified occupants, THE MONUMENT. Tliis Monument was erected in 1827, to perpetuate the memory of the two military chiefs, Wolfe and Montcalm, who commanded the opposing armies at the battle of Quebec, in 1759, which transferred Canada to the British Empire, The pillar is of a square form. THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA, 63 gradually tapering to the .top, in altitude sixty-five feet. It is situated in the Upper Town, on an elevated spot betwixt the castle of St. Louis, and Cape Diamond. In all the eastern views of the city, the Monument constitutes a prominent object, and has a fine efiect when viewed from the river by those approaching the port. COURT HOUSE. The building so denominated stands on the west of the Place d’ Armes, and fronts the south in St. Louis Street. This edifice is built of stone, and is three stories high, with small wings at the back, and roofed with tin. The length in front is about forty-five yards, with a depth of fifteen. The entrance is in the middle of the front, leading to the first floor, and is approached by a flight of stone steps on each side of a platform at the vestibule. It is of recent erection, and, although plain, it is a very handsome building. THE JAIL. This modern structure is situated in St. Stanislaus Street, fronting the north-east. There is a large yard for the use of the prisoners, extending to Angel Street on the west. The building is of stone, three stories high, and roofed with tin, and measures in front fifty- six yards, by a breadth of sixty-eight feet. PUBLIC WAREHOUSE. This capacious edifice is in the Lower Town, situated on the King’s Wharf, and extends along the Cul de Sac Street, two hundred and fifty feet. The erection of this building was completed in 1821. It is built of 64 JOURNAL OF A TOUR stone, the same as the Court House ; and is solely ap- propriated for the reception of government stores. MILITARY EDIFICES. THE FORT. The citadel occupies the highest part of the promon- tory, at the south extremity of the Upper Town, with- in the walls. This stupendous fort is built on the rock, where its perpendicular height is three hundred and forty-five feet above the river. The capacious bomb- proof barracks are on the west, at the gate. The offi- cers’ baiTacks are situated on the east, at the verge of the rock. The flag-staff and telegraph are at the north- east point. There are various buildings towards the south, and the extensive area in the middle is occupied as a parade ground ; so that the fort contains ample accommodation for the troops, and all the implements and materials of war. It has a complete command of the river and the town ; and from its elevated situation and the strength of the ramparts, few places in the world, and none in North America, are better prepared to resist and attack than the citadel of Quebec. UPPER TOWN BARRACKS. This capacious edifice stands on the west side of the market place. It is a quadrangular structure, measur- ing seventy-five yai*ds, by sixty-seven. The building is of stone, two stories high on the south, and three on the north. It has a large enclosed area on the south- west, and occupies the whole space betwixt Fabrique THROUGH , BRITISH AMERICA. 65 Street on the north, and St. Anne Street on the south. It was originally the monastery or college of the Jesuits, founded in the year 1635, and is considered as the first institution on the continent of North America, for the education of young men. After the reduction of Que- bec, it devolved on the British Crown, and has since been converted into a commodious barracks for the troops. The area on the south-west which was former- ly a garden, is now appropriated for a parade-ground. Since the declension of the Jesuits, few now remain in North America, although at one time, there were a con- siderable number. The citizens informed me that there is only one about Quebec, a very old man with a long white beard, and a robe dress. Besides the monastery, the estates belonging to this fraternity have fallen to the British Government, and are now disposed of as the rest of the Crown lands. THE ARMOURY AND ARTILLERY BARRACKS. The Artillery Barracks are located at the foot of Palace Street, adjoining on the west of Palace Gate. It is a stone building, two stories high, and extends to the west one hundred and ninety-two yards, with a 'depth of forty feet. This structure was erected by the French in 1750, and contains apartments for the officers and men ; with store-houses and offices connected wdth the ordnance department. That which is most deserving the attention of a stranger is the grand armoury, in which are deposited a vast number of muskets, swords, pistols, cutlasses, &c. The arms are kept in high polish, and constant repair, in case of emergency, and are suf- ficient to equip above twenty thousand men. Visitors are admitted into this repository of warlike instruments, if accompanied by a citizen. G 66 JOURNAL OF A TOUR OFFICERS^ BARRACKS. The building so denominated stands in St. Louis Street, on the south side, and is solely appropriated to the accommodation of the army officers. It is built of stone, and is three stories high ; but it has nothing to attract the attention of a stranger, except the handsome young officers, who are frequently to be seen standing or walking in front, with their pretty figures, fine faces, and sparkling eyes ; and who, in my opinion, in these respects, far surpass the Canadian gentlemen about Quebec. THE ESPLANADE. Near the above barracks, at the west comer of the street adjoining St. Louis Gate, within the barrier, is the site of the Esplanade. It is an enclosed area of considerable extent, appropriated as a parade-ground ; and every Sabbath afternoon, the troops are exercised here. Many of the citizens assemble to enjoy the sight of a fine military display. Visitors ought by all means to attend this, and if possible, to get on the ramparts, where every manoeu\Te can be distinctly seen over the whole area. Besides this, there is a fine view, com- prising an extensive range of country to the west — the suburbs on the north — and, west of the barrier, the St. Charles river, meandering through the beautiful vale be- low — the villages of Charlesbourg and Lorette — the closely settled country around — the towering mountains, bounding the landscape on the north — the city in front, on the east — and the gay multitude around ; all which present a scene so picturesque and pleasing, that to be rightly understood, it must be realized. THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 67 COMMERCIAL ESTABLISHMENTS. CUSTOM-HOUSE. The first place which Europeans in general have to look after, is either the Custom-house or the Bank. The former is situated between St. Peter Street and the river. It is an old decayed building, and very unfit for the important purpose for which it is designed. This inconvenience is soon to be removed, the Legislature having granted a sum o^ money to rear a new edifice, in a more eligible situation. It is already in progressive erection, and is located in Cul de Sac Street, near the King’s wharf. The material is of stone, and it is ex- pected the building will when finished be very hand- some. QUEBEC BANK. This establishment occupies part of that extensive building called the Fire Assurance Office, and is located near the middle of St. Peter Street, on the west side. The bank is a joint stock company, incorporated by Act of Parliament, and was formerly limited to a capital of seventy-five thousand pounds currency. This sum has been found insufficient for the convenience and ac- commodation of the public ; wherefore, application was made to the Provincial Government, for leave to enlarge the capital ; and an Act was passed on the 31st March, 1831, allowing the corporation to increase the stock by a sum of one hundred and fifty thousand pounds cur- rency, divided into six thousand shares of twenty-five pounds each. 68 JOURNAL OF A TOUR Thus, the increased capital will amount to tw^hun- dred and twenty-five thousand pounds Canada hui^ncy- Days of discount — Monday and Thursday. QUEBEC BRANCH OF THE MONTREAL BANK. This bank is in the same street, on the east side, near the north end. It occupies the first floor of a large building fronting the street, and a stone staii* leads from the entrance to the office. Days of discount — Tuesday and Friday. QUEBEC savings' BANK. This institution was organised the 26th March, 1821. Hours of attendance, every Tuesday, from eleven to one o’clock. QUEBEC EXCHANGE. This handsome edifice was erected in 1829, and is pleasantly situated at the north-east extremity of the Lower Town, commanding a fine view of the bay. It is built of stone, three stories high, and measures in length sixty-five feet, by a depth of thirty-four. The ground floor is appropriated for a piazza ; the news- room occupies the first flat ; and the upper storev con- tains the offices of the exchange, and committee of trade. The Quebec committee of trade was instituted in 1809, to protect the interests of the merchants, and regulate the commercial business of the port. The exchange news-room w'as organised in 1817, by mutual subscription, and at present there are three hundred subscribers to this institution Here all the principal newspapers from Great Britain and the United States, as well as those of the colonies, are constantly THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 69 supplied: Visitors are admitted, when introduced by a subscriber. POST OFFICE. On going from the Lower Town to the post-office, the route is through Mountain Street, entering the Up- per Town by the Prescott Gate, within which there is a flight of steps to ascend, and at the top of these stands the post-office on the right. I think it proper to men- tion to the people in Britain, as well as to those in British America, that when sending letters to friends or acquaintances in the States, it is necessary to jjay the home or the provincial postage, otherwise they will not be forwarded. Those in Britain sending letters through the United States to friends in British America, must pay both the home and States postages ; while those in British America sending letters through the United States to Britain, must pay the provincidl and States postages ; but those in the United States sending let- ters to any part of Britain or the British Colonies, have only to pay the States postage to the Lines. Numerous inconveniences arise, both at home and abroad, from neglecting the post-office regulations ; which may be seen by the daily advertisements, in the American con- tinental newspapers, inquiring after friends and letters. QUEBEC FIRE ASSURANCE COMPANY. This institution was organised in 1 S 16 . The office is in those extensive premises known by the familiar appellation of “ The Fire Office Buildings.” It is situ- ated in St. Peter Street, and the hours of attendance are from ten in the morning till four in the afternoon. G 70 JOURNAL OF A TOUR ST. LAWRENCE STEAM BOAT COMPANY. There are four steamers belonging to this company, namely, John Molson, The Chambly, St. Lawrence, and one building, to be called John Bull. This new boat, for size, and degree of propelling power, is to exceed all others in North America. STEAM TOW-BOAT COMPANY. This company have three steamers, viz. The Hercules, British America, and The Kichelieu. All the steam boats on the line are furnished with every necessary accommodation for the comfort and con- venience of passengers. Each has two cabins, one for ladies and another for gentlemen, commodiously fitted up, and elegantly furnished. At present, the British America is the finest on the line. This spacious steam- er, in respect both of her exterior appearance and inte- rior arrangements, truly deserves to be called splendid. About fifteen years ago, it was the labour of two or three weeks to make a journey to Montreal and back ; but at present it can be accomplished in the short pe- riod of two days. In the year 1825, the fare was twelve dollars up, and ten down ; but now it is only five dollars up, and four down. Deck passengers are charged seven shillings and sixpence either up or down, but they must find themselves in victuals. Besides those already mentioned, there is a small steamer called the Lady of the Lake, belonging to a gentleman in Quebec, which generally makes two trips a week. Cabin passengers are charged one dollar less here than on the others, but deck passengers the same. The time requir- ed to go up is from twenty-four to thirty hours, and from sixteen to twenty hours to come down. One of THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 71 these steamers leaves Quebec for Montreal every lawful day during the navigable season, and at an average, two for four days of the week. They start always about the time of low water, in order to pass the Richelieu Rapids forty miles above Quebec, with the flood tide. Passen- gers debarking at this port and wishing a passage im- mediately to Montreal, are recommended to look the painted frames in front of the post-office ; where slip boards are put up every day, with the name of each steam boat to sail that day, and also the hour of sailing. The communication to the south side of the river is kept up by six horse boats, and the Lieuzongue, a small steamer. On all these boats, the fare is fourpence, either to or from the city ; and almost every ten mi- nutes, some one or other of them is starting, from day- light till dark. LITERATURE. ■ QUEBEC LIBRARY. This institution was organized on the Ist January / 17 79. The library occupies part of the fire office build- ings, and contains upwards of five thousand volumes. It is open daily from eleven o’clock forenoon, to three afternoon. Visitors may be gratified with a sight of the books belonging to this society. QUEBEC GARRISON LIBRARY. The library is under the patronage of His Excellency Lieutenant General Lord Aylmer, K.C.B. It contains several thousand volumes, and is confined solely to the 72 JOURNAL OP A TOUR military. Besides these, there is a circulating library, containing books of miscellaneous reading, but it is rather in an infant state. QUEBEC LITERARY AND HISTORICAL SOCIETY. This society was instituted in 1824, and occupies part of the large building on the comer of Fort Street, fronting the Place d’ Armes, familiarly called the Colo- nial office, as the rest of the apartments are occupied for the public offices of government. The cabinet of curiosities contains about fifteen hundred mineralogi- cal and geological specimens from foreign countries ; two hundred of the same genera from Lakes Huron and Superior ; with a diversity of native samples. There are also a few subjects of natural history in ornithology and zoology ; seventy different indigenous woods ; twenty mathematical models ; a bowl from Herculane- um ; some entomological species ; a rich botanical va- riety ; and a select scientific library.’’ Besides these, the hall is richly adorned with numerous and splendid paintings. The tourist, and the man of pleasure, as well as of science, will be much gratified by inspecting this museum. chasseur’s museum Is situated in St. Helen Street, west from Palace Street. A visitor may very agreeably pass an hour or two, examining the rich variety of ornithological and zoological subjects deposited here. TYPOGRAPHY. Quebec contains six book stores, and three printing offices. The new^spapers published at present are four in number. The Quebec Gazette has been of long stand* THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 73 ing ; it commenced in 1764, and at first was issued on Thursday, but now it is distributed three times a week. The Quebec Mercury is published three times a week. The Official Gazette is circulated on Thursday. The Canadien is a paper in the French language : it has recently been established, and is published weekly. EDUCATION. In Quebec there is the royal grammar school and the classical academy, in which are taught the Latin and Greek languages. The national school is for the education of the poor ; and it is divided into two de- partments, one for boys, and the other for girls. The number of daily scholars is one hundred and fifteen boys, and ninety-six girls. The Quebec education so- ciety school is conducted on similar principles. The British and Canadian school is on the Lancasterian system, and the number of daily scholars is from one hundred and twenty to two hundred. Besides the above, there are four Sabbath schools, all numerously attended. r PHILANTHROPIC SOCIETIES. THE QUEBEC FEMALE ORPHAN ASYLUM Was instituted in 1828. It is supported from the pro- ceeds of an annual bazaar, held by the ladies of the com- mittee of management of the Quebec National School. The Female Compassionate Society is conducted solely by the ladies. It was organised the 6th January, 1820, 74 JOURNAL OF A TOUR for the relief of poor females, during their pregnancy and confinement. THE QUEBEC EMIGRANT SOCIETY Was established expressly to assist emigrants debark- ing at Quebec, in poverty and distress, as they various- ly require. By means of this institution, many of the sick and diseased emigrants are taken care of, while others get their passages paid to the various places they want to go to ; which enables them to spread over the country. The office is in No. 8, Commercial Buildings, Lower Town ; and the public dispensary of the emigrant society is in Sous le Port Street, near the Queen’s wharf. The latter is open from two to four o’clock, afternoon, every day. Sabbath excepted. Applicants must provide themselves with tickets of recommendation from the weekly sub-committee, or from their respective clergy. THE QUEBEC BENEVOLENT SOCIETY Was instituted the 25th April, 1789. There is also a society for promoting education, industry, and the moral improvement of the prisoners in the Quebec jail. The Quebec Institution for the Suppression of Mendicity was organised in 1830, and is in successful operation. These humane societies administer relief in their va- rious departments, on the most liberal principles of philanthropy. The Quebec Friendly Society was founded in 1810, and the Quebec Medical SocieU’ in December, 1826. The Trinity House of Quebec, the Agricultural Society, and the Quebec Mechanics’ Institution, organised the 7th February, 1831, are restricted to their own profes- sional objects. THOUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 75 Besides these, there are five religious institutions, namely, the Ladies’ Bible Society, the Diocesan Society for promoting Christian Knowledge, the Quebec Bible Society, the Methodist Missionary Society, and the Quebec Religious Tract Society. These institutions are all connected with the parent societies of London, and are conducted on similar principles. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. Visitors from Britain, debarking at Quebec, general- ly take notice of the fine horses, among the first of the objects which they observe, as there is frequently a considerable number about the shore. It is generallv allowed that the Canadian horses are of a superior breed to those of Britain. They are of a middle size, between that of a poney and a large horse, with a neat hand- some body, and fine slender legs. They are also very hardy, strong, swift, and docile. The price of a horse here varies according to his age, but, generally speak- ing, a good horse can be purchased for fifteen pounds currency. The carts are very light made, and all the country people have a seat fixed across each cart, like the seat of a gig, and the tackle is similar to what is called gig harness in Britain, with leathern reins reach- ing back to the seat. Scarcely any one here drives a horse walking by his side, but mounts the seat with the reins in his hand, and drives either at the trot or gallop, both with and without a load. The dog carts soon attract the attention of a stran- ger. Here the dogs are trained to the harness, with a cart proportionable to the size of the animal, and the tackle is similar to what is used for the horses. Some 76 JOURNAL OF A TOUR of the merchants keep dogs for driving their light goods from the shore, and from auction halls ; but the great- er number of them are kept for driving water from the river to the Upper Town. It is very surprising to see these animals drawing their little carts, with a cask in each, containing from ten to fifteen gallons of water ; and more especially considering the steep ascent from the river to the Upper Town. Boys generally manage the harnessed dogs ; and I have often been delighted to see about half a dozen of them collect at the Upper Town market place, when each of the boys would stand up in the cart beside the water cask, along the edge of the pavement, and when every thing is ready, a signal is given, and off they start at full gallop : this is quite an amusing scene. If one in the rear is like to gain, he pulls out of the rank, and makes a bold push to get a-head. They seldom arrive at the river in the same order as they started, but in the warm weather, the dogs are generally ready for a ch'ink by the time they reach the water. The dogs are also used for drawing children’s coaches, of which there are some very hand- some, with four wheels, and of the open carriage make. A fine one of this description costs from fourteen to twenty dollars ; a good dog and harness, from ten to twelve dollars ; and a dog cart from ten to sixteen shillings. As there is a daily market here, a stranger soon finds his way thither. The Upper Town market place is a large irregular square, bounded on the east by the ca- tholic cathedral, and on the west by the barracks, which was formerly the monastery of the Jesuits. A visitor beholds here a motley mixture — the flesh, fish, poultry, and I might add, the horse and cattle market, all in one. The horses, cattle, sheep, and hogs, are all brought THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 77 to a certain place on the north side, where those wish- ing to purchase know to look for them. The hay market extends toward the south, and is the street leading from the market square to St. Anne Street. Here the Canadian farmers assemble with loads of hay, straw, and fire- wood. They place their carts close to each other, and the horses’ heads all to the middle of the street, lest they should get a mouth- ful of hay to keep them alive. These masters never unyoke, or give meat to their horses at the market, al- though they should stand a whole day. The fellows themselves walk to and fro on the pavement close by each with a whip in his hand, and a pipe in his mouth, and so there they go, smoking tobacco for hours toge- ther. The flesh market is mostly supplied from the country, and not solely by fleshers as in Britain. The country people bring fresh meat to the market every day in summer, and they require to slaughter in the evening what is to be sold next morning, as it would not keep longer in so warm a clime. They have it all weighed before it is brought to market, and they sell it ofi* the cart, or a large board like a tea tray placed on the causeway. Butter, eggs, poultry, fish, and vegetables are disposed of in a similar manner ; and every one keeps his horse in the yoke the whole time he is in the market. L If* T^ Lower Town market is similar to the other, but the plat of ground where it is held is too small to con- tain the necessary supplies. It is frequently so cram- med'/during the morning, that it is almost impossible for a stranger to pass the place in any direction. How- ever, this inconvenience is to be remedied, as a more extensive -area has lately been purchased for a market place, on the north-east extremity of the Lower Towri, H 78 JOURNAL OP A TOUR and thither it will soon be removed, where there will be more accommodation both for seller and purchaser. It is rather surprising, that, though the butcher meat is all weighed before it is brought to market, there are no complaints respecting bad weight. I could not help taking notice of this, and asked several of the ci- tizens if they got always sufficient weight. They an- swered in the affirmative^ and ascribed the merit of this principally to the Catholic clergy. The French Cana- dians are all Roman Catholics, and it is they that bring the chief supplies to market ; now, it is said the Catho- lic clergy have such a control over them, that they are not allowed to use a false weight or a false measure. The Protestants say this is the greatest good which they know of the priests doing about Quebec. However, the Canadians, in my opinion, have great merit for their justice and equity ; and if the clergy have the power of making them virtuous, it is highly commend- able to do it ; and it is much to be wished that the clergy around Aberdeen had the same control over the country wives who supply the poultry market with but- ter, in which case there would be less trouble about short weight. INDIANS. Many people in Scotland are of opinion that no Indians live near the large towns, but keep secluded in the forest. It must be acknowledged that numbers of them live in the forests, and none of them dwell within the city of Quebec ; but many of them live in the neigh- bourhood, and dozens of them are to be seen on the streets almost every day. There is a fine settlement THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 79 belonging to them about eight miles north of Quebec, with a beautiful village called Lorette. This village is inhabited solely by Indians of the Huron tribe. Besides those who live here, there are other tribes of these ab- original roamers of the forest encamped in the woods around, who come occasionally to town, to sell their toys, and purchase necessaries. There are many of them converted to the Christian faith, and schools have lately been established in various places among them. The male is called an Indian, the female a Squaw, and a child, a Papooss. They are of a copper colour, and invariably have long, black, sleek, horse-tail hair. Notwithstanding their colour, they are not disagreeable, and many of them incline to be handsome. The poorer sort go very meanly drest. An Indian wears pantaloons of coarse cloth, and a frock coat either of coarse cloth or of a blanket. The skirt reaches the knee, and is dose all around except in front. A common sash is worn round the waist, and the coat fastens close to the chin when required ; but it is generally worn open in summer, without either shirt or neckcloth. A pair of coarse moccassins of their own manufacture, with a black hat of the British fashion, completes the dress. A Squaw wears moccassins, and a hat the same as the Indian, with coarse cloth leggings, and a short petti- coat either of coarse blue cloth, or of a blanket. A loose jacket is worn either of cloth or calico, and in cold weather, both sexes wear a blanket over the dress. A young Papooss is carried in a small box like a violin- case, quite thin and light, having no lid ; and the Pa- pooss is fixed tightly with a cord from the feet to the chin. When the Squaw is going to travel, she takes the box with the Papooss below her arm, and carries it ; but sometimes there is a cord fixed into the head of this 80 JOURNAL OF A TOUR Papooss-case, when it is hung on the back with the cord round the neck. The wealthy sort dress very genteelly, and an Indian chief's dress is very pretty. It consists of moccassins richly trimmed with seed beads, or por- cupine’s quills, and cloth leggings trimmed with beads, spangles, or porcupine’s quills. The coat is similar to a surtout, the skirt reaching a little below the knee, and close round except in front. It is richly trimmed round the verge of the skirt, and up the front, with gold or silver lace. A rich and beautiful Indian sash is worn round the waist ; and the whole is surmounted by a fine hat, either black or drab, according to the taste of the wearer, and it has a broad band of gold or silver lace, and a plume of ostrich feathers to ornament the front, which completes the dress. A fashionable Squaw wears moccassins and leggings similar to those worn by an Indian ; a jacket of fine cloth or merino, the colour crimson, bloom, or blue. The skirt is a piece of cloth put near twice round the body and lapped over at one side. It reaches a little below the knee, and covers the top of the leggings. Some have a skirt at the jacket of the same material, extending about half a yard down the petticoat, and about a quarter of a yard from the lower extremity. This upper garment resembles a Spanish pelisse, and is frequently trimmed round the verge and up the front. The neck and breast are left rather bare, ornamented with a gold chain, or a handsome necklace of oriental pearl. The hair is worn plain, shed in front, and col- lapsed behind. Gold pendants adorn the ears, while the hands and wrists are decorated with showy rings and bracelets. A round hat, the same as the Indian’s, with broad band and plume, completes the dress. These ab-original roamers of the forest have in ge- THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 81 neral little inclination for arts or agriculture, and the sciences are little known amongst them. The Squaws make the curiosities which they sell, and do the most of the work. The Indians are rather indolent, and ge- nerally occupy their time in hunting and fishing. Those who live in settled habitations, cultivate small patches of land, and this is becoming much more common amongst them than it was a few years ago ; for some of them now have good houses and genteel furniture, with all the conveniences enjoyed by civilized people. EXCURSIONS. Every tourist who visits Quebec ought to take a ride to the Indian village, Lorette. It is eight miles distant, on an elevated spot, and commands a fine view of the city. The route leads through the village of Charles- bourg, which is about half way, and the prospect all along is very pleasant. Another fine excursion may be made to the falls of Montmorenci. This beautiful cas- cade is situated on the north side of the St. Lawrence, nine miles below Quebec. The route leads through the lengthened village of Beauport, which extends nearly the whole distance. This fall is formed by the river Montmorenci, which is twenty-five yards broad at the projecting leap. It has a considerable declivity for some distance above, and comes with great rapidity to the main pitch, where it is precipitated from a perpen- dicular height of nearly two hundred and forty feet into the basin below. The falls of Chandiere are eight miles south of Que- bec, and are formed by the river Chandiere. This river falls into the St. Lawrence on the south-east side, H 3 82 JOURNAL OF A TOUR five miles above Quebec, and the cascade is three miles back. The breadth of the stream at the precipice is four hundred feet across, and the perpendicular height one hundred and thirty-five feet. Point Levi village is deserving the attention of a stranger. It stands on the east bank of the St. Law- rence, where the river is but one mile broad. Every visitor at Quebec ought to cross the river with the fer- ry-boat, and view the city from the summit of this de- lightful spot. From this place there is a fine view of the east side of the Upper Town, where every prominent object can be distinctly seen, such as the grand battery, parliament house, the spires of the churches, the castle of St. Louis, the monument, and the flag-staflF and te- legraph, on Cape Diamond, with numerous other objects. The Lower Town is seen extending round the skirt of the rock, which rises at the south extremiU" to the height of one hundred and forty-five feet, exhibiting enormous strata, and threatening to fall and crush the inhabitants below. The ships in port are to be seen from the north-east point to Wolfe’s cove, exhibiting a forest of masts. This, together with the falls of Mont- morenci, the villages of Beauport, Charlesbourg, and Lorette, will always afford a pleasing excursion to the tourist who visits Quebec. The description of the various buildings and institu- tions has occupied so much room, that daily occurrences in the ordinary way have been necessarily excluded. On the 14th May, when I arrived at Quebec, the face of the country had a dull and wintery aspect, and the citizens informed me that the snow had only disap- peared three or four days before that time. In the course of four or five days after, the face of the country began to look fresh and green, and the trees and bushes in THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA, 83 gardens had begun to spread forth their leaves ; but the greatest alteration which I observed was on the Esplanade. This being the parade ground, on my ar- rival it wore the appearance of a beaten road, but four days after it was clothed in the verdure of summer, and in eight days, the grass might have been cut with a scythe, or shorn with a sickle. By the 24th, the country all around was become invested with such a beautiful fresh green as I had never seen equalled before. Vegetation is so rapid here, that few of those who have never travelled beyond the precincts of Great Britain can have any adequate idea of it. PROMENADES. There are some very delightful promenades here, particularly Des Carrieres Street, along the side of the governor’s garden, over which is seen the river and the beautiful landscape to the east. There is another by the grand battery, and a third along the Esplanade. I took a walk to either of these places almost every day, and would have gone more frequently to the su- burbs, had it not been for the smell of the trees and bushes in gardens, which was so strong, that it became surfeiting. AUCTION HALLS. During my stay here, I directed a good deal of my attention to the auction halls, of which there are above half a dozen. The most extensive business carried on in that line is by Kelly & Co. at the Mart in Palace 84 JOURNAL OP A TOUR Street, Upper Town, and by Dupont & Nicol, Notre Dame Street, Lower Town. Each of the auctioneer? appoints two sale days a- week, at the beginning of the season, and keeps by this arrangement through the summer. Business commences at one o’clock, and fre- quently eontinues till ten, p. m. British goods are mostly sold by auction, and the merchants and pedlars generally attend when the imported goods are advertis- ed. The articles are put up in wholesale lots to suit the trade. Cloth goes always by the piece, as also do calicoes, checks, muslins, laces, and lawns ; and stock- ings, shawls, handkerchiefs, shirts, and shoes by the dozen or gross. Ribbons are sold by the piece or the hundred yards ; cutlery by the gross ; and all imported goods in wholesale quantities. Some years ago, British goods sold very high here, and brought a handsome profit after clearing all expenses ; but, for these three years past, there have been such large quantities sent from the various ports of Britain, that there is more than sufficient to supply the demand ; so that it has sometimes been found difficult to realise the prime cost. I observed that articles of superior quality generallv sold well, but inferior and damaged goods w^ould scarce- ly sell at any price. Articles of furniture made here are generally cheaper than in Britain. Chairs used in kitchens and halls can be purchased for four shillings and sixpence each, and they are so handsomely finished and painted, that they would cost nearly double that money in Britain. Bed-room chairs are very pretty at seven and sixpence each, and elegant bamboo chairs only cost ten shillings each. This latter is the kind generally used in the parlours and dining-rooms of gen- teel houses, both public and private. Mahogany chairs are little used in this country, and chairs with cushion THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 85 seats are also very rare. A handsome chest of mahog- any drawers can he purchased for four pounds, and a chest of elliptic drawers with pillars only costs six pounds. Tent bedsteads are commonly used here, which cost from three to six dollars ; and a burdett costs twelve shillings. Tables are of all different prices, according to the size and quality, but rather cheaper than in Britain. These articles can be purchased any day at the same price ; for although they are put aside if they do not come to the wished-for price, they are again brought forw^ard for sale by auction. Old furni- ture is generally sold off at what it will bring, and the purchaser has no duty to pay here. As to the terms on which goods are sold, auctioneers charge seven and a half per cent, commission, and gua- rantee payment. Small sums are generally paid six days after the sale of the goods ; but if the sum amoimt to one hundred pounds or upwards, a credit is allowed of from sixty to a hundred days, according as the agree- ment is made. An auction here is a great novelty to a stranger. As this was a French colony till 1759, when it was transferred to the British Empire, the Canadians nearly all speak French to the present day ; consequent- ly the auctioneers require to speak both French and English : so, when an article is put up, and an offer given, the auctioneer calls out what is bid in English, and then in French, as fast as he can. Sometimes a bode is given in English, and sometimes in French ; but all the company are soon made aware of what is of- fered, if they know either French or English. The most of the merchants speak both languages, and to be in business here it is very necessary. I should not have called them merchants, because in this country they are called store-keepers, and the shops are called stores ; 86 JOURNAL OF A TOUR as for example, a book-store, a hat-store, a cloth-store, a hardware-store, a grocery-store, &c. &c. A store- keeper from the country was introduced to me one day, and he requested of me to accompany him to some of the stores. Now I was pretty well acquainted with the city by this time, and knew all the principal stores and auction halls in town, so I went a shopping with him for‘ three days ; during which time we were through all the principal stores of the city. This gave me an op- portunity of observing how goods were sold in the re- tail way. I saw goods retailing in diflFerent stores, which I had seen sold wholesale, and I can say that the profit charged was very handsome. British goods and merchandise of any description can be purchased at the auction halls pretty reasonable ; but when they have once passed into the storekeeper’s hands, they are taxed severely. I may remark, that the store-keepers here have a more mixed stock than the merchants in the cities and towns of Great Britain. It is no unusual thing to see in one store, clothiery, hardware, fancy goods, books, hosiery, and sometimes shoes, carpets, and crockery. The stores are spread over the most of the town, but Fabrique Street is the place for fancy ar- ticles in the mercery and haberdashery line. ITINERARY. Besides the public buildings, there are a considerable number of private dwellings ; but they do not display great taste in the citizens, as they are of various shapes, heights, and sizes, insomuch that there is not one street in which the disfiguring aspect of irregularity does not appear. Some of the houses are built of wood, but THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 87 the greater number are stone buildings. Most of the windows are of the French fashion, opening in the mid- dle like folding-doors. Double windows are generally used in winter to keep out the frost, when one is plac- ed at the outer edge of the orifice, and the other about six inches towards the interior; but in summer, the outer one is commonly unhinged, and laid aside till winter return. The streets are generally narrow, and roughly paved, while many of the doors have four or five steps of wood or stone, projecting to the outer edge of the foot pavement, which is a great inconvenience, especial- ly at night, when one stumbles against the steps of a door at every few rods he walks. In the Upper Town, the streets are tolerably paved and clean, but some of the streets in the suburbs and Lower Town are not pav- ed at all in the middle, and the wretchedly narrow foot pavement of two or three feet broad has plank on the outer edge, and the rest made up with gravel. In the Upper Town, the streets though narrow, are yet clean and airy, and from there being a considerable declivity, rain water goes quickly away ; but the Lower Town, in rainy weather, beats all I ever saw for mud ; even Wapping and the Fleet-Ditch of London do not equal it in this respect. In hot weather, the nuisance and stench at the river side, along the Cul de Sac Street, are such as I shall not attempt to describe. It is very astonishing, that the magistrates do not take measures to remove such an insupportable abomination. Owing to the low latitude of this city, it is frequently dark in the evenings at midsummer ; consequently the lamps are lighted all the year round, except a few nights at full moon. But the town is poorly lighted, there being barely half a sufficient number of oil lamps. Thunder and rain are frequent here. Seldom three 88 JOURNAL OF A TOUR days pass without a shower, and when it rains moderate- ly, an umbrella may be of service to one out of doors, but when heavily, it would be a useless appendage ; for the rain at Quebec frequently falls like a shower bath. Vivid flashes of lightning dart along the northern mountains almost every evening, but thunder is not al- ways heard when lightning is seen. The thunder, however, is often so loud as to make the houses tremble, and the windows clatter. All the religious, civil, and military edifices have conductors for conveying away the electric fluid, as have also a considerable number of the private dwellings ; but notwithstanding this pre- caution, accidents by lightning happen every summer. I have again seen the English farmer who came out with the Ottowa of London, and whom I mentioned having seen at Trinity Bay. He informs me that he has bought thirteen hundred acres of land, near the St. Lawrence, forty miles above Quebec, part of which is cleared. This must be an eligible situation for a large farm, as the produce can be easily brought by a water conveyance to Quebec, where there is always a ready market. Good land in the neighbourhood of this city, sells as high as five pounds per acre ; but at fifteen miles distance, land can be purchased for two pounds per acre, and sometimes for less. It would be difficult to state exactly the price of land here. What is near the town sells very high, while at a considerable dis- tance, it is very low, so that land sells at all prices from five shillings to five pounds. 1 must not omit to mention, that all the old settle- ments were under the control of a Superieure, during the time of the French government, and all heritable property which was sold within these Signiories, was subject to a duty of eight or ten per cent, on the real THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA, 89 value of said property every time it was sold. It was agreed to at the capitulation when Canada was trans- ferred to the British Empire, that the Seigniors should have this ancient privilege continued, and it does con- tinue to the present day in the province of Lower Ca- nada, but in none of the other three provinces of British North America. It frequently happens that emigrants who purchase heritable property are unacquainted with this arrangement, till about a year after the purchase, when they are made acquainted with it by a demand to pay the tax due to the Seignior, and with which, by the statutes of the country, they are obliged to comply. The Canadian farmers generally begin to sow grain about the twentieth of May, and finish about the first of June. Vegetation is so rapid here, that the new crop is frequently into the barn in the course of thirteen weeks after the seed is taken out to be sown. They plant potatoes all the month of June, and new potatoes are common at the twentieth of July. CURRENT WAGES AT QUEBEC. I'arm servants are engaged by the month, and gene- rally get eight dollars per month, with bed, board, and washing. Female servants, either in town or countrj^ have from three to four dollars per month. Day labourers are engaged at from three to four shillings per day, and find themselves. Journeymen carpenters and coopers have generally twenty dollars per month ; painters, shoemakers, and masons, from twenty to twenty-four dollai^s per month. Silversmiths, black- smiths, watchmakers, and saddlers have from twenty- four to thirty dollars per month, according to their pro- I 90 JOURNAL OF A TOUR ficiency in their various callings. Board can be had for two and a half dollars per week, and washing is three shillings per dozen of pieces. OBSERVATIONS ON THE PEOPLE AND FASHIONS OF QUEBEC. The people in this city are very fashionable in their dress, particularly the ladies, who have generally very handsome figures, with fine, open, pleased countenances, enlivened by beautiful dark eyes, suflSciently powerful to lighten up a countenance otherwise heavy. They dress in a manner similar to the ladies in Britain, with this difierence, that white muslin dresses are more ge- neral here, owing to the heat of the climate, as the power of the sun causes coloured dress to fade. As to the gentle- men, they are by no means equal to the ladies in per- sonal appearance ; and if ^ may be allowed to be a suf- ficient judge to draw the comparison, the gentlemen in the city of Aberdeen, for personal appearance, far sur- pass the Canadian gentlemen of Quebec. In this ob- servation I am not singular, for I have conversed on this subject with several visitors from Britain, who per- fectly concur in my opinion. Most of the young gentlemen dress very genteelly. A few dress coats and coatees are worn, but surtouts are more in fashion, and are of various colours, but generally green, brown, and claret. The dandies wear the skirts lined with white gros de naples ; others are content with black silk serge. The fashionable vests are chiefly of silk, either black, brown, or green ; and black silk velvet, figured or chequered, is frequently worn. A number of the young gentlemen dress without a vest, the full breast THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA, 91 of the shirt being made to meet with the pantaloons ; and, as the coat is generally open in front, the breast of the shirt is frequently ornamented with a gold guard- er and silk suspenders. As to pantaloons, there are some of black and some of brown cloth ; white drill is a good deal worn, and also chequed and brown merino. Boots are little used here in summer ; thin shoes, with silk or cotton socks are generally worn. Straw and leg- horn hats are very common; some of the gentlemen use black hats, and there are a considerable number of light drab worn. VISIT TO THE FORT. Tuesday y June 1th , — This morning, some of the gentlemen where I lodged proposed a visit to Cape Diamond, and asked me to accompany them. I readily consented, and \vas glad of. such an opportunity to in- spect the fort, as I did not choose to go alone. After dinner, those inclined for this excursion, prepared to set out. The party numbered six in all, and on passing through St. Louis Street, one of the gentlemen request- ed me to ask for the card of admission, at the Adjutant General’s office. I agreed to do so, although I expect- ed that it would not be easily obtained. There were three or four soldiers in the entrance, and as I approach- ed, one of them advanced to me, when I presently made ray request known to him. He demanded the num- ber and names of the party. On being answered, he went into the office, and in two minutes, returned with a card of admission for the whole party into the citadel, signed by the Adjutant General. The reason why I mention this so minutely, is, to let strangers know 92 JOURNAL OF A TOUR how easy it is to obtain permission to enter the citadel, as many have been disappointed of viewings this noble fortress, from apprehending that admission was too dif- ficult to be obtained. The Adjutant General's office is situated on the west side of St. Louis Street, nearly op- posite the officers’ barracks ; but the visitor must bear in mind that this office is shut at two o’clock in the af- ternoon ; so that it is necessary to call before that time. NoxJiarge is made for a card of admission, and no card wilf answer but for the day upon which it is granted. The entrance to the fort is on the west ; and, on passing the first gate, the stupendous rampart in front seems to interdict any further progress. The space between the two walls resembles a street, and is com- pletely commanded from the surrounding ramparts. From the outer gate there is no appearance of another, till after passing some distance to the north, when the inner gate appears. We passed the sentinel and enter- ed the gate, when the officer in attendance demanded our card of admission, and when it was delivered, we were immediately desired to walk in. There is an ex- tensive bomb-proof barracks for the troops, extending a considerable distance from the gate on each side. This building is of freestone in front, and the rampart forms the back. It is one story high, and the win- dows front the interior. The roof is arched, wdth a gravel walk above, sufficiently broad for drawing a coach. The parapet to the interior is four feet high, and the rampart to the exterior, six feet. At the north extremity of the fort is the flag-staff, and near this is the nautical telegraph, which communicates with the telegraph on the Island of Orleans, ten miles below Quebec. On the one at Orleans, signal balls are hoist- ed, descriptive of the number, size, and quality of the THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 93 ships which appear in the river forty miles below, and the signal is instantly repeated here ; by which means it is presently known over all the city what ships are in the river for fifty miles below Quebec. Close to the telegraph is the great gun, w'hich is fired every morn- ing by day-break, at twelve noon, and at nine in the evening. The first of these signals announces the ap- proach of day, the second proclaims the dinner hour, while the third and last gives orders to the soldiers without the garrison to repair to quarters within ten minutes. From this point the best view of the city and bay is enjoyed. Passing along the east side, there is a handsome edifice erected for a barracks, to accommodate the officers of the garrison. This structure is built of freestone, three stories high, and roofed with tin. It is situated at the verge of the rock, and overlooks the river at the height of three hundred and forty-five feet. It is quite new, and not entirely finished, but will be completed before the fall. A little past this is the railway, which extends from the gun-boat wharf to the fort. This powerful specimen of mechanism attracts much attention. The length of it is about five hundred feet, and the perpendicular al- titude, three hundred and forty-five feet. It is used by the government for drawing up stones and weighty ma- terial, for the repairs going on at the fort. In the middle, there is a stair by which Ihe workmen pass up and down ; and on each side is a railway, on which the machines are placed, and the one is drawn up as the other descends, by a strong chain cable. This operation is performed by means of a powerful steam engine on the gun-boat wharf. On passing to the northern ex- tremity, which is the most elevated spot of the cape, the lover of the picturesque will expatiate with feelings I 3 94 JOURNAL OP A TOUR of delight on the beautiful prospect around. Here is to be seen the table land on the western bank of the river, where the perpendicular elevation is from two to three hundred feet. About a mile and a half from the ram- parts commence the memorable Plains of Abraham, on which the battle of Quebec was fought, in 1759. Im- mediately below is the cove where General Wolfe land- ed his troops, which still bears his name. Beyond the plains, the prospect is impeded by the neighbouring forests, at the skirts of which are seen some beautiful country seats. To the west, the diversified landscape is rich and beautiful, presenting to the view verdant fields studded with numerous white dwellings, in con- tinued succession, along a beautiful ascent to the sum- mit, a distance of above twenty miles. Illumined by the beams of the setting sun, these habitations have a delightful appearance as they stretch along the top of the mountains, till they seem lost in the distance. To- wards the north appear the villages of Charlesbourg, Lorette, and Beauport, with their beautiful churches and spires ; while the densely settled country is like a garden, rising with a gradual elevation to the rear, where it is bounded on the north by high woodland mountains. Towards the north-east is seen the bay and the west end of the island of Orleans. Immediate- ly below, on the east, is the river with the numerous ships and boats : and on the opposite shore, the village of Point Levi with its handsome white dwellings, while • O' the numerous settlements extending up the bank of the river resemble a continued village. In the rear is the beauteous landscape of the east, adorned in all the ver- dant beauty of hill and dale, woodlands and cultivated fields. This extensive prospect terminates by mountain rising beyond mountain, and softening into shade, as THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 95 far as vision can reach. Towards the south, the river is seen for five miles, rolling along betwixt its stupen- dous banks, which are beautifully fringed and variegat- ed with wood, till on the west appears the table land, which completes the circle of this admirable scene. It is generally allowed by those who have travelled far, that the extensive, rich, and diversified scenery which the spectator beholds from the citadel of Quebec, is scarcely surpassed in the world. And, indeed, there is every thing here which can render a landscape rich and delightful ; there is hill and dale, wood and water, smiling fields and beautiful villages. The fort contains all the necessary accommodation for the troops. There is spring water within the walls, and a large area for a parade ground ; Vv^ith large stores capable of containing several years’ provisions and the necessary material of war. The repairs going on here at present occupy about tv/o hundred men, chiefly ma- sons and carpenters. This fcit is called Cape Diamond, from the crystalline quartz found in the rock. ITINERARY. Wednesday y June 8th . — This day three of the gentle- men in the same lodgings with me, have intimated their intention of starting in the evening with the steam boat for Montreal ; it is therefore my intention to be- gin my tour to the Upper Province in their agreeable company. My limits will not admit of daily occurrences here, but I shall narrate a few of what I think will be the most acceptable to the reader. The lodging house I have lived in is kept very clean, and things generally in good order ; but that which makes it most agreeable 96 JOURNAL OF A TOUR to me is the cheerful company of the lodgers. The servants are all very agreeable, with the exception of the oldest waiter, who is a self-sufficient loggerhead. Boarding here is considerably different from what it is in Britain. At a breakfast there is always potatoes, and beef-steaks or fried fish, and either tea or coffee, with bread, butter, and eggs. A dinner consists of fresh fish, either bar or shad, from the river, roast, cold meat, either ham or tongue, sometimes fowls or pigeons, and always plenty of vegetables, with pies or pudding to finish with. At some boarding houses there is always soup, and at others there is never any. A glass of ale or cider is generally allowed at dinner, but in some boarding houses, a glass of spirits or wine to drink in water is given. Tea and supper in this country are united in one meal, which is indifferently called tea or supper, and consists of tea, cold meat, bread, butter, and biscuit. Different houses keep various diet hours ; but the gene- ral time is, breakfast at eight, dinner at twelve, and supper at seven. The immense number of emigrants arriving here dailv is almost incredible ; and dozens of them may be seen in any quarter of Quebec. The taverns in the Lower Town are daily very much crowded, insomuch that I have never seen any thing to equal it, except perhaps the bustle of a village inn, on the day of an annual fair, which is similar. Notwithstanding the provision made by government, and the various philanthropic institu- tions, to assist and shelter poor emigrants, the tide of emigration flows so rapidly here, that it is not sufficient ; consequently, hundreds have to lie on the shore night and day, for a week or a fortnight, without shed or shel- ter, unless they chance to collect a few boards to lean THROUGH BRITISH A.MERICA. 97 against the adjacent buildings. However, the Emigrant Society daily finds employment for those who are wil- ling to work ; while others get their passages paid to various places, and by this means disperse over the country. For the advantage of those emigrating to the provinces of Upper or Lower Canada, I beg leave to insert the two following advertisements. THE CANADA COMPANY. This Company have for sale in Upper Canada, about two millions five hundred thousand acres of land, of the following description, viz. : — First, Crown Reserves, being lots of two hundred acres each, scattered throughout the older townships of the province. Second, Blocks of land, of from one to forty thou- sand acres. These are situated in townships of the Western District, and in the townships of Witmot in the Gore District. Third, A town and township called Guelph, in the Gore District, about twenty-four miles north-west of Dundas, in which there are upwards of eight hundred settlers ; among whom are almost every kind of trades- men and mechanics, also taverns, stores, schools, saw- mills, a brewery and distillery, and one of the best grist-mills in the province. This is a desirable location for small capitalists, as labourers and servants are easily procured, and lots partially improved may be pur- chased at a reasonable rate. Fourth, The Huron Territory, consisting of one mil- lion one hundred thousand acres, in the shape of atri- 98 JOURNAL OF A TOUR angle, the base resting for upwards of sixty miles on the east bank of Lake Huron. Fifth, The town of Goderich, containing at present about thirty houses, with stores, taverns, blacksmiths' and carpenters’ shops, a school, and the branch office of the Company ; it overhangs a harbour formed by tbe basin of the Maitland, a large stream which falls into Lake Huron, and is the centre of the settlement. A saw-mill is in operation, and a grist-mill lately erected. Roads have been run to Dundas and London, which this year at a very great expense will be rendered equal to any in the province ; and the communication by the St. Clair with Lake Erie, and thence by the Welland canal, into Lake Ontario, gives a most advantageous mode of sending produce to the market ; and this year, the Rideau navigation will be completed, when produce may be shipped in a sloop at Goderich, and delivered without breaking bulk at Montreal or Quebec. The land, to say the least, is equal to any in the pro- vince, and greatly superior to the average of either Upper Canada or the opposite coast of the United States. The climate, owing to the vicinity of the Lake, is more mild and equable than any not possessing similar advantages. It abounds with brick earth, lime* and building stones, and holds out every prospect of becoming the most prosperous settlement in the pro- vince. Settlers coming by the way of Quebec, will proceed by Montreal and Lachine to Prescott, where an agent of the Company will forward them to Port Dalhousie, and thence to Buffalo. From that they are forwarded to Detroit, whence they will proceed in a smaller steam boat up the St. Clair, at the head of which, a vessel belonging to the Company will transport them (about THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 99 sixty miles) to Goderich. Should they wish to proceed to any other part of the Company’s lands, any of the agents mentioned in the way ticket along the line of road, will give the necessary information. Canada Compafiys Office^ York, 1th May, 1831 . OFFICES OF THE CANADA COMPANY. York — Guelph — Goderich. AGENTS. Quebec, John Davidson, Esq. Montreal, Messrs. Hart, Logan, & Co. Kingston, James Simpson, Esq. By town, Charles Shirriff, Esq. L’Original, C. P. Treadwell, Esq. Perth, Alexander Fraser, Esq. Bellville, James H. Samson, Esq. Napanee, Allan Macpherson, Esq. Cobourg, J. G. Bethune, Esq. Dundas,^^v.v^-v^ Andrew T. Kerby, Esq. Fort Erie, James Kerby, Esq. Buffalo, E. Johnston, Esq. Vittoria, Duncan Ross, Esq. Port Albot,,.^..^ Col. Burwell. Aldboro’ John M‘Farlane, Esq. Amherstburg, ^ Wm. Berczy, Esq. Sandwich, Joseph Woods, Esq. Baldoon, Wm. Jones, Esq. New York, J. C. Buchanan, Esq. Boston, Robert Manners, Esq. 100 JOURNAL OF A TOUR NOTICE. It is hereby intimated to settlers and emigrants ar- riving from the United Kingdom, and wishing to locate on lands belonging to the crown in Upper and Lower Canada, that there are many situations in either pro- vince, whereon they can settle to great advantage, and which will be granted on very easy terms, to industri- ous settlers, for actual settlement. IN LOWER CANADA, His Excellency the Governor-in- chief has been pleas- ed to order the crown lands in the townships of Inver- ness and Leeds, near Craig’s Road, to be reserved for industrious emigrants arriving from the United King- dom. These lands are distant from Quebec thirty-six to forty miles on the south side of the river St. Law- rence, with good roads all the way ; and a new road to the centre of Inverness will be finished this summer, which will aflbrd employment to a considerable number of settlers. The climate is exceedingly healthy, soil of the best quality, and abounding in numerous navigable lakes and rivers. Many Scotch, English, and Irish fa- milies are located in this part of the country. They are exceedingly pleased with their situation, and the settlement is in a rapid state of improvement. Ferry boats ply daily from the market slip. Lower Town, to St Nicholas, distant twelve miles up the St. Lawrence, on the south side, at which place Craig’s Road com- mences. UPPER CANADA. His Excellency the Lieutenant Governor has been pleased to order the townships of Ops Seymour, adjoin- THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 101 ing lands in the District of Newcastle, Upper Canada, to be reserved for the reception of industrious emigrants from the United Kingdom, and who may be disposed to settle in that Province. There are other situations where emigrants may get locations ; but to those who have no fixed places in view, the District of Newcastle will be found, in every way, a most desirable situation. These lands are situated about 30 miles from the north side of Lake Ontario, and adjoining the prosperous town- ships of Cavin, and near the Rice and Cobourg Lakes. Persons disposed to locate in either of the above Provinces, (if approved of), will be provided with a ticket from the office of His Majesty’s Resident Agent for the Superintendence of Settlers in the Canadas, at Quebec, to the Location Agent in the respective town- ships, which will entitle the settler to such lot as he may choose, vacant at the time ; and on the back of such ticket, directions will be found for his guidance in proceeding to his destination. Agents are also sta- tioned at Montreal and Prescott, to direct emigrants who may wish to proceed to settle in Upper Canada. Any further information may be obtained (gratis) on applying at the Resident Agent’s office. Lower Town, (Sault au Matelot Street, entrance in St. Peter Street, nearly opposite the Montreal Bank,) daily, from ten to two o’clock ; and emigrants not possessed of immediate means of going upon lands, and who are in want of em- ployment, are recommended to apply at the above of- fice for the necessary information respecting the demand for labourers and artizans, rates of wages, &c. at the various works now going on in the Canadas. A. C. Buchanan, Agent. Office of Ilis Majesty’s Resident Agent for the Superintendence of Settlers and Emigrants in the Canadas. Quebec^ 1st Muy^ 1831. K 102 JOURNAL OF A TOUR NOTE. As emigrants, on arriving at Quebec, are exposed to numerous temptations, they would materially advance their own interest, if they would exercise a little pru- dence, and not suffer themselves to be hurried away the moment ^they arrive, or listen to every representa- tion that may be presented to their notice. The heads of families ought to repair as soon as pos- sible after their arrival, to the office of His Majesty’s Resident for the Superintendence of Settlers, whose especial duty it is to give all information in his power (gratis) to industrious emigrants, who may wish to set- tle in Upper or Lower Canada. Labourers are wanted in all the eastern townships of Lower Canada, particularly Shipton, Scotston, Stan- stead, Melburne, Bolton, Barinston, Hatley, Eaton, &c. and female servants are sure of finding employment. The rate of wages generally paid in the eastern town- ships for labouring men accustomed to the work of the country, is from two to three pounds a month, and found. Females get from ten shillings to one pound a month, and found. Good, sober, and industrious trades- men, particularly carpenters, blacksmiths, shoemakers, tailors, and millwrights, are much wanted. New emi- grants ought not to expect the highest rate of wages on their first arrival, nor until they are acquainted with the work of the country. Many, from an over desire in this respect, frequently deprive themselves of good employment, which they but too often regret. When men accustomed to the work of the country get from two to three pounds a month, and found, new comers should be satisfied with from one pound five shillings to two pounds. THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA 103 SITUATION OF QUEBEC. This city is situated on the north-west side of the river St. Lawrence, four hundred miles above Cape Gaspe, which is on the south side of the river at the ocean, in north latitude, 46° 48' 30", west longitude from Greenwich, 7P 17'. THE DISTANCE FROM QUEBEC TO NEW YORK. FROM TO MILES Quebec, ♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦ Montreal, 180 Montreal, Albany, 240 Albany, New York, 160 580 FROM QUEBEC TO THE FALLS OF NIAGARA. from to miles by Quebec, ♦»#»»»»*• Montreal, 180 ♦♦♦♦♦♦ Steam Boat. Montreal, Lachine, 9 Stage Coach. Liachine,-^-^^<^ Cascades, 24 ♦♦♦♦♦♦ Steam Boat. Cascades, Coteaw du Lac, 16 ♦♦♦♦♦♦ Stage Coach. Coteaw du Lac, Cornwall, 41 ♦♦♦♦♦♦ Steam Boat. Cornwall, Prescott. 50 Stage Coach. Prescott, Brockville, 12 Steam Boat. Brockvile, Kingston, 60 ♦♦♦♦♦♦ Do. Kingston, Cobourg, 100 Do. Cobourg, York, 80 Do. York, Burlington Bay, 46 ♦♦♦♦♦♦ Do. Burlington Bay, Niagara Town, 48 Do. Niagara Town, The Falls, 14 Stage Coach. In all, 680 As York and Niagara lie opposite to each other, it is about sixty miles nearer to pass right across, than to go round by the head of the Lake. From the Falls to Buffalo, the distance is twenty-one miles. The line is k pt up h ere by stage coaches, and the whole length of 104 JOURNAL OF A TOUR the Niagara river which unites the two Lakes Ontario and Erie together, is thirty-five miles. Bufiklo is situ- ated at the outlet of Lake Erie, on the States side, and the principal conveyance to the Upper Lakes has been as yet, from this place ; consequently, those on the Ca- nada side have to cross with the ferry boat when oppo- site the town. FROM BUFFALO TO GREEN BAY. FROM TO MILES BY Buffalo, 45 Steam Boat. Dunkirk, Portland, 15 Do. Portland, 30 Do. Erie, Ashtabula, 45 Do. Ashtabula, ♦♦♦♦♦♦ Green River,^'^-»^<*^ 33 Do. Green River, ♦♦ Cleveland, 30 Do. i Cleveland, Sandusky, 60 Do. Sandusky, Detroit, 80 Do. Detroit, Port Gratio, ~ 80 ♦♦♦♦♦♦ Do. Fort Gratio, Michelmackinack,*^^ 200 Do. Michelmackinack, Green Bay, 300 Do. 918 The various publications found on the continent do not exactly agree in their tables of distances ; but this is chiefly owing to the circumstance that some of the places can be approached by different routes. The above tables are made up by comparing a number together, and accurately selecting the plan most generally agreed to. TOPOGRAPHY OF THE RIVER FROM QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. As I am furnished with several tables of the churches along the shores of the St. Lawrence betwixt Quebec and Montreal, I shall here insert a list of them’ for the THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA 105 amuspiment of such as travel that way. The churches are generally within sight of steam-boat passengers, and are from six to nine miles distant from each other. Few interruptions of woodland intervene throughout the whole journey, and as the greater number of the inhabitants of this Province are to be found along the banks of the St. Lawrence, the close settlements in va- rious places resemble a continued village. SOUTH-EAST SIDE. NORTH [-WEST SIDE. Miles Miles from above No. Montreal. No. Quebec. 1. 180 Point Levi. 1. St. Augustin. 2. St. Nicholas. 2. 21 Pointe aux Trem- 3. St. Antoine. bles. 4. St. Croix. 3. Les Ecureuils, or 5. Lothiniere. Belair. 6. Deschaillons. 4. 30 Cap Sante. 7. St. Pierre les Bec- 5. 45 Deschambault. quets. 6. Grondines. 8. 100 Gentilly. 7. 60 St. Anne. 9. Bencancour. 8. 75 Batiscan. 10. 90 St. Gregoire. 9. Champlain. 11. Nicholet. 10. Cap de la Magde- 12. Lefebre,or Baie St. leine. Antoine. 11. 90 Three Rivers. 13. St. Francis. 12. Pointe du Lac. 14. Yamaska. 13. Machiche. 15. 45 Sorel. 14. Riviere du Loup. 16. Contrecour. 15. Maskinonge. 17. Vercheres. 10. 135 Berthier. 18. 15 Varennes. 17. Isle du Pas. 19. Boucherville. 18. Lanoraye. 20. Longueuil — nearly 19. Lavaltrie. opposite. 20. 156 St. Sulpice. 21. 9 La Prairie — south. 4 {. Repentigny. 22. 171 Pointaux Trembles. 23. Long Point. K 3 106 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 1. Point Levi. This village is opposite Quebec. 2. St. Nicholas is situated about twelve miles up the river. 3. St. Antoine comes next in rotation after St. Nicholas. 4. St. Croix. This Seigniory belongs to the Ursu- line Convent of Quebec. 5. Lothinier^. A few dwellings surround this church- 6. Deschaillons. This church is situated a little a- bove Cap a la Roche. 7. St. Pierre les Becquets is situated near the mar- gin of the river— 8. Gentilly. The southern shore here is low, and sometimes inundated by the river. 9. Bencancour. This church is situated nearly op- posite Three Rivers, and is surrounded by a few farm houses. Some Indian families of the Abenaqui tribe have settled in this neighbourhood. 10. St. Gregoire. There are a few dwellings adjoin- ing this church, but these two last mentioned are not visible to steam-boat travellers. 11. Nicholet. This is a delightful village, with a populous Seigniory. There is a college here, with seven Tutors and a President ; but owing to some intervening woodlands, steam-boat passengers see only the church with a few of the dwellings. 12. Lefebre, or Baie St. Antoine, is a small village. 13. St. Francis. There are forty dwellings located here, chiefly inhabited by Indians of the Abenaqui tribe. 14. Yamaska. In this parish there is a Protestant meeting-house. These three last mentioned Seigniories are not visible to steam- boat travellers. 15. Sorel. This town contains two hundred houses, besides a barracks, and a summer residence for the go- THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 107 vernor and chief. The steam-boats always stop here with or for passengers. 16. Contrecour. This is as yet rather an inconsider- able Seigniory. 17. Vercheres. A few dwellings surroimd this church. 18. Varennes. This church has three spires, and is a conspicuous object on the river; it is also distinctly seen at Montreal, a distance of fifteen miles. 19. Boucherville. This church has a village adjoin- ing it, containing above one hundred houses. 20. Longueuil is situated opposite the Lower end of Montreal. 21. La Prairie. This is the great thoroughfare from from Montreal to St. John and Lake Champlain. NORTH-WEST SHORE OF THE ST. LAWRENCE. 1. St. Augustin. This church is the first above the city on the river side, but it is not seen from the river. The whole Seigniory belongs to the General Hospital of Quebec. 2. Point aux Trembles. This is a small village con- taining about thirty houses, on the margin of the river. It is situated twenty-one miles above Quebec. 3. Les Ecureuils, or Belair. In the vicinity of this church there are some very picturesque and rural scenes. 4. Cap Sante. There is a neat little village here ; the church has three spires, and being situated on an elevated spot, is a conspicuous object from the river. 5. Deschambault. This church is a handsome edifice, built on a high point, which extends to the Richelieu Rapids, and to passengers on the river it presents a majestic appearance. 6. Grondines. 7. St. Anne. This village is at some distance from 108* JOURNAL OF A TOUR the river. It contains a neat church, with about forty dwellings. 8. Batiscan. This church is situated 75 miles above Quebec. 9. Champlain. 10. Cap de la Magdeleine. 11. Three Rivers. In point of antiquity, this is the second settlement in the Province ; it is situated half way betwixt Quebec and Montreal, being ninety miles from each. 12. Pointe du Lac. This church stands at the lower end of Lake St. Peter, with a small village adjoining to it. 13. Machiche. This is a neat little village. 14. Riviere du Loup. A handsome church with three spires adorns this little village, which contains a- bout fifty dwellings. 15. Maskinonge. This Seigniory with the two for- mer mentioned, are little seen by steam-boat travellers. 16. Berthier. This town is situated one hundred and thirty-five miles above Quebec, and forty- five below Montreal, It has a handsome church, with about one hundred dwellings, and stands opposite to Sorel. 17. Isle du Pas. This church stands on an Island, betwixt Berthier and Sorel. 18. Lanoraye. From this Seigniory, the houses are so close along the road, on the bank of the river, that it resembles a continued street to Montreal. 19. Lavaltrie. 20. St. Sulpice. This village contains above one hundred dwellings. 21. Repentigny. 22. Point aux Trembles. 23. Long Pointe. These three are within a few miles of Mon- treal. THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 109 VOYAGE FROM QUEBEC TO MONTREAL, I intimated before my intention of starting for Mon- treal, in company with three gentlemen who had been fellow lodgers with myself. The steam boat Chambly was advertised to sail at ten in the evening, consequent- ly, we set out to Hunt's Wharf, a little before that time. Our luggage was all put on a cart ; a small box of mine, which contained bottles and glasses with cordials, was put on the top, and as bad luck would have it, be- fore we had gone thirty yards, down came the box, crash went the glasses, and abroad went the cordials. When we arrived at the wharf, the steam boat was out at a ship for passengers which had lately amved, and was lying at anchor near the middle of the river. It was above an hour before the steam boat returned, and there were at least two hundred passengers with their luggage, waiting on the wharf all this time. As soon as the steamer arrived, planks were laid for a pass be- twixt it and the wharf, when the vulgar throng rushed forward with great violence, dragging their luggage on board with such disorder, that they were frequently like to be turned over into the tide. When the bustle began to cease, I went on board with my small trunk, and put it in the cabin ; the other was by far too heavy for one person to carry, but Lieutenant Morgan and Mr. J. Macdonald presently brought it after me. These two young gentlemen came to see me safe on board, and had to wait nearly three hours before that was ac- complished. The starting bell presently began to ring, which is a signal for all going on shore to depart im- mediately. We had now to bid adieu, and in regard to one of these gentlemen, it was in all probability a long and last adieu, “ never in this world to meet again." 110 JOURNAL OF A TOUR When the steamer set sail, it was within a few mi- nutes of one o’clock in the moniing. I now began to think of the kind friends I had left in Quebec, and kind- ness received in a foreign land is doubly endearing. In this meditative disposition of mind, I was little inclined to sleep, and therefore took a seat above the engine, to view the placid stream, as it reflected the stars which bespangled the cloudless sky, in the stillness of a fine summer night. A little before three o’clock, I left my station at the engine to go to bed, but it was a more difficult task to get through the multitude than one would readily imagine. There were four hundred deck passengers, and by this time they had made their beds all over the deck, so that one could scarcelv set down a foot, without setting it upon a human being. In order to pass through this impervious multitude, it was ne- cessary to place the one foot before the other, and slide little by little without lifting either, until the task was accomplished. On reaching the cabin door, the light from a side room showed several naked legs and arms, appearing from below the blankets. I stopt for a mo- ment to behold this novel scene; one of the waiters was at the door looking at the same. \\Tien I advanc- ed to go in, he stopped me, and said, You can^t get in here.” The answer was, emphatically, I’ll not be well pleased if I don’t get in.” He immediately per- ceived that 1 was a cabin passenger, asked pardon, and desired me to walk in. By this time the cabin passen- gers were all gone to bed, and I presently followed the example, in order to get up early in the morning, to view the villages and settlements along the banks of the river. Thursday, June 9th . — This morning, most of the gentlemen were got out of bed and dressing before I THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. Ill awoke. I arose and went outside to get a view of the surrounding country. We were now past the Richelieu Rapids, and nearly fifty miles above Quebec. Here the placid stream, the handsome white villages, each with a church and spire, the beautiful dark green woods, the fresh and verdant fields, and the whitewashed farm houses, present a scene both picturesque and pleasing. Breakfast was on the table by eight o’clock. It is very much the fashion in this country for gentlemen to take a glass of bitters before breakfast, so one of the gentle- men asked me to accompany him to the baroon, and he would treat me to a glass of gin and bitters ; this is an excellent thing for giving one a zest for breakfast, so I readily complied. We now sat down to breakfast, which was served up in excellent style. It consisted of tea and coffee, beef-steaks, ham, tongue, and potatoes, also bread, crackers, butter, and eggs. I shall remark here, that on board the steam boats, as well as in the fashionable hotels, the butter in the heat of summer is always brought to table with ice on the top. After breakfast, we went outside for some time, but there was little convenience, as the promenade deck which is ap- propriated for the cabin passengers, was completely covered over with the deck passengers. Now some of the people in Scotland say, that they would go as deck passengers from Quebec to Montreal, as there is such a difference in the fare, and the time so short. In regard to this, I do not pretend to lay down rules to any, as I can only answer for myself and friends who have de- livered their opinions to me on this subject; but I am certain, those who go as deck passengers, have general- ly many difficulties to contend with. When the ships begin to arrive with passengers at Quebec, there is al- ways a throng on the steam boats going up, so much so 112 JOURNAL OP A TOUR that there is scarcely room to ly or sit, and sometimes little to stand. But this is not the worst ; a great number of these passengers come out from Ireland, sometimes two or three hundred in one ship. Now, during the long voyage, their clothes become very dir- ty ; and I can assert from ocular demonstration, as I have often seen the steam boats start from Quebec, that a considerable number of the deck passengers are very ill with itch ; while many a one is to be found among them resembling another globe, by being densely peo- pled with small cattle. It is therefore my decided opinion, that no genteel person who really knows what it is, would choose a deck passage up to Montreal. The downward passage is very different, as the time is about one third shorter, and sometimes not six deck passen- gers. Owing to the throng on deck, we went oc- casionally to the cabin ; and in order to pass the time agreeably, the gentlemen treated by turns to gin, rum, wdne, or brandy, for which we w^ere charged fourpence per glass. A little past twelve, dinner was on the ta- ble. It consisted of fish, roast beef, mutton, beef- steaks, ham, tongue, and vegetables, with pies, tarts, and pudding to finish off with. For drink, there was plenty of ice water and spirits ; however, several of the gentlemen ordered a pint of wine ; but this is not in- cluded in the cabin fare, and the steward charged for it half a dollar per pint. When the cloth was remov- ed, almonds, raisins, and nuts were presented, and a plate and nut-cracker was placed before each. This I am informed is generally the fashion on board all the steam boats in North America. Before three o’clock, we were at Three Rivers. This river falls into the St. Lawrence on the north-west side, and is equi-distant from Quebec and Montreal, being about ninety miles THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 113 from each. Above this it is called the St. Maurice river, and takes the name of Three Rivers at the mouth, from its being separated by two small islands into three channels, and on the south-west side of it stands the town of Three Rivers. This town was formerly the seat of the colonial government, and is still considered the third in importance belonging to the province. It contains about four hundred houses, and nearly three thousand inhabitants. The public buildings are a Ca- tholic church, an Episcopal church, a Methodist chapel, and a convent of Ursulines. This institution is for the reception of those afHicted by disease ; it was founded by M. de St. Vallier, Bishop of Quebec, in 1677, and is under the superintendence of a Superior and thirty- four Nuns. Besides the above, there is a barracks, a court house, and a jail. Twelve miles up the St. Mau- rice, are the celebrated falls of Chevenegan, a beautiful cascade of about one hundred feet in height. Nine miles above Chevenegan are those of the Grand Mere, a perpendicular fall of one hundred and fifty feet. The steam boats always stop at the town of Three Rivers, and those wishing to view the falls, can arrange to stop a day, and join the route immediately after. Lake St. Peter, some miles above Three Rivers, is formed by an expansion of the river St. Lawrence, to the breadth of about sixteen miles in the middle, and abouttfwenty in length. The waters of this lake have but little current, and are from eight to eleven feet deep. Towards the close of the afternoon, all the gentlemen went into the cabin, when two of them began td^b- serve, that although there was little convenience upon deck, there was plenty of room inside, and as to the passengers, they were as select a party as ever they they had seen in any cabin. This I believe might have 114 JOURNAL OF A TOUR been pretty correct, as they surpassed all the companies of equal number, which I had ever seen, for humour, politeness, and sociality. However, as yet I had not seen much, being only beginning my travels ; but if I happen to be in such an agreeable party during the tour, it shall be taken notice of. I could see by the list which lay on the table, that the cabin passengers were three ladies and fifteen gen- tlemen. The ladies did not appear at table, so the w^aiting maid served them in their own cabin. About seven in the evening, supper was brought, which was composed of tea, cold beef, mutton, pork, and ham, also butter, and several kinds of bread. After dark I went outside. We were now above Lake St. Peter, where some islands divide the river into narrow chan- nels. Betwixt Three Rivers and Montreal, the land is low along the shores of the St. Lawrence, so that, in a fine summer evening, the trees and houses on the mar- gin of the stream are beautifully reflected in the water, with the tops of the trees and the chimneys of the houses lowermost. It was a delightful sight to see the sprightly steamer gliding through the glassy stream, and the curling waves wreathing to each side as the vessel skimmed along. There was a short stop made at Sorel, but, being near midnight, no distinct view could be had of the towm. Friday, lOM June , — This morning the weather was very fine, and the scenery around beautiful. The vil- lages and farm houses were distinctly seen, and people w^ing about ; also horses, cattle, and sheep grazing in the fields. Along the south shore, the land is low and level for a considerable distance, and below the island of Montreal, there are some fine small islands, with sheep and cattle grazing on them, but no dwel- THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 115 lings. By the time breakfast was finished, we were opposite the end of Montreal Island, and, I was inform- ed, fifteen miles from the landing place. The city was not visible from the deck, but one of the gentlemen pointed to the mountain in rear of the town, which was distinctly seen. As the current is rapid for some miles below the city, steam boats go up comparatively slow ; by which means the visitor can deliberately view the varied scene around, in all its distinctness and beau- ty. Opposite the lower end of the city, is the beauti- ful island of St. Helen, on the north side of which, there is a fort, to guard the river at the approach to the town. The island has a gradual ascent to the mid- dle, forming a small mountain, and capt with wood. The channel which separates it from Montreal is scarce- ly a mile broad, and the current here is very rapid. On the upward passage, steam boats generally keep in shore towards the island of Montreal, in order to avoid the stronger current in the middle of the stream ; conse- quently, steam-boat passengers do not see the town at a great distance ; but, on the near approach to the island of St. Helen, the south side of the city is disclosed in full view. Among the passengers, there was a gentle- man from Kingston, Upper Canada, who kindly invited me to stay a week at his house, on my way up the Lake, so I accepted of this invitation, and we agreed not to part with each other, till after arrriving at his house. When the steamer arrived in port, we went outside to go ashore, and ask for lodgings at one of the hotels where he was ac- quainted. However, it was found impossible to proce^rfor some time, as the deck passengers completely choked the gangway ; so the cabin passengers went all inside, till the bustle should cease a little This gentleman and I happened to sit down on a settee, in the opposite side 116 JOURNAL OF A TOUR from my berth. In the meantime, several clerks and boys from the mercantile houses in town, had forced their way through the crowd, and came into the cabin to look for letters, as they are always laid on the end of the cabin table, as soon as a steam boat arrives, for each to take his own. Among the rest, in steps a ro- bust fellow, who looked round the cabin, and observ- ing a bag and travelling box in my berth, went direct- ly to it. He lifted these articles, then turned up the pillows and searched the bed as if he wanted something, but, findingnothing, he took up the bag which contained my dress clothes, and felt it all over. He then lifted the tin box and looked at it, which among other things contained the most of my money. I now began to feel rather uneasy, and said to my companion, “ Do you see that fellow opposite ? ‘‘ Yes,^’ replied he, ‘"is that your berth ? The answer was, “ Yes, Sir, and I don’t like such liberty.” The fellow now took a turn to the other end of the cabin, looking into all the berths as he passed along, and, being a little alarmed for my money, I could not take my eyes from him. Presently he re- turned and commenced searching below the pillows a- gain, in expectation, as we thought, of finding a pocket book or watch. Being disappointed in this, he took up the bag and felt it up and dowm. My companion desired me to go and stop him, otherwise he would be oiF with the bag and box in a minute. I presently walked across, and said, “ I desire to know what you want with that bag ? ” The fellow replied, “ It is my owB, and the berth is my own.” I was now certain that he was a robber, and called out to the head waiter who was at the door, that the fellow was robbing me of my clothes. In an instant, two waiters, the stew- ard, and six or eight of the cabin passengers, closed THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 117 round the fellow. The steward asked what he meant by laying his hand on passengers^ luggage. The fellow answered that it was his own, and pushed forward to get away, but away they would not let him. The steward then said, ""You are no passenger here, and you have no luggage here ; so if you don't quit that and be gone, I shall cause you be laid fast presently." The fellow now saw it was impossible to get away, he hesitated for a little, and then said, "" Is not this the Hercules ? " Some one replied, it was not. He then dropt the bag, and bluntly said, “ O you must excuse me, for I thought it was." They answered, "" You are too rude to be excused ; it is only a sham to ask for the Hercules, and no other steamer in j)ort but the Cham- bly." As the fellow pushed to get out, he was allowed to pass, when he sprung to the door, and instantly dis- appeared. The gentlemen now congratulated me on the happy escape from robbery ; and had we got on shore immediately when the vessel arrived, doubtless I bad been robbed, and perhaps my companion too, for his clothes and money were in a travelling bag, which lay below the cabin table near my berth. The steward now engaged to take charge of our luggage, till we should have time to go and ask for lodgings ; which we presently did, a.nd quickly returned with a porter, and took our things away. I soon learnt from my acquain- tances and the newspapers, that passengers' luggage and storekeepers' goods, had for some time past been stolen from steam boats arriving at this port, to an al- arming extent. So it will be very necessary for pas- sengers going to the Upper Province by way of Mon- treal, to look carefully after their luggage. We left Quebec on Thursday morning at one o'clock, and arrived at Montreal on Friday at eleven o'clock l3 118 JOURNAL OF A TOUR forenoon, after a passage of thirty-four hours. This was at least six hours longer than the usual time, a difference occasioned by bringing up a schooner in tow. MONTREAL. This city stands on the south side of the island of Montreal, one hundred and eighty miles above Quebec, and five hundred and eighty above Cape Gaspe at the ocean. It is two hundred and forty miles from Albany, four hundred from the city of New York, and one hun- dred and forty from the town of Prescott, at the lower end of Lake Ontario. The island is about thirty -three miles long, and, at its extreme breadth, nine miles broad. The town extends along the banks of the St. Law- rence about five miles in length, and is one mile broad at the middle. This settlement belonged to the French, but it was taken by the Generals Amherst and Murray, on the 8th September, 1760, without firing a gun. According to the terms of capitulation, all the French forces were to be sent to Old France ; consequently, Montreal became subject to the British Crown, one year after Quebec. The buildings are mostly construct- ed of stone, and generally arranged on regularly dis- posed but narrow streets. However, about the skirts of the iown, a great number of the streets are still un- paved, and, in rainy weather, exceedingly muddy. There are some very handsome buildings in this city ; but being of so many difl'erent elevations, little of it appears without the defacing aspect of irregularity. During the time of the French administration, this town was en- circled by a stone wall, which by the sanction of go- vernment was some years ago entirely demolished, and THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 119 the buildings of late have increased very considerably. Quebec is not quite so large as this city. Montreal is equal in size to the city of Aberdeen in Scotland. At present it is the largest and most populous city in Ca- nada, and more mercantile business is transacted in it than in the seaport and capital. The exterior appear- ance of Montreal is more modernised than Quebec ; but with the exception of the mountain, the city and sur- rounding landscape are comparatively low and level ; consequently, they fail to produce that bold and pleas- ing effect, for which Quebec and its surrounding scene- ry are so justly celebrated. Notwithstanding this, Montreal combines various objects deserving the atten- tion of a stranger. The mountain of Montreal, from which the city takes its name, is situated at the north- west end of the town. This beautiful woodland moun- tain gives a pleasing relief to the city, and has a fine effect when viewed from the vessels arriving in port. The summit of the mountain is two and a half miles distant from the river, and about seven hundred feet in perpendicular height. From this spot the visitor has a commanding view of the city and surrounding countr\\ The track along the south side of the mountain, for about half way up, has been selected for the favourite residence of private gentlemen, whose elegant white mansions, among the exuberant orchards and gardens, appear in charming graphic relievo, which gives to the scene a feature of momentary enchantment. The city would have had a much more pleasing effect, had it not been for one excrescence, which is a vale running through it, from east to west, nearly parallel to the ri- ver, and only a little past the middle of the town. Owing to this, the perspective view on the south side is very limited ; but, had it risen with a gradual ascent. 120 JOURNAL OF A TOUR from the river’s edge to the utmost extremity, it would have had a grand and imposing effect to strangers ar- riving in port. However, some of the public edifices, with their tin roofs and glittering spires, have a bold and brilliant appearance, particularly the Roman Catho- lic cathedral. This spacious edifice was completed in 1830, with the exception of its two spires not yet erected. It is built of stone, on an elevated spot, form- ing a conspicuous object in all views of the city, and for capaciousness, style, and decoration, it surpasses most of the edifices on the continent of North America. Besides the cathedral, there are other three Catholic churches, an English church, a Scotch church, a Me- thodist chapel, and an Anabaptist meeting house. Most of these are handsome edifices, particularly the English and Scotch churches, each of which is surmounted by an elegant spire. There is also a college and a seminary. The former was established by royal charter, 31st March, 1821. It is called M‘Gill College, from having been founded and endowed by the will of the late Mr. McGill of this city ; but, in consequence of the bequest having been contested, this establishment is not yet in actual opera- tion, with the exception of the lectures conducted by the medical department. CONVENTS. The Hotel Dieu of Montreal was founded by Madame de Bullion in 1644, and is conducted by a Superior and forty-one Nuns, w^hose chief occupation is to administer relief to the sick w’ho are received into this hospital. The Convent called the Congregation of Notre Dame, was instituted by Marguerite Bourgeois in 1 650, for the instruction of young girls in the various branches THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 121 of a female education, and is under the management of a Superior and eighty-six Nuns. The General Hospital, or Convent of Grey Sisters, is situated on the bank of the St. Lawrence, at the up- per end of the town. This institution was established by Madame Youville in 1753, and is dedicated to the re- ception of the indigent who are sick, or afflicted by disease. It is conducted by a Superior and thirty-three Nuns. Montreal General Hospital. — This institution was organized in 1821, and incorporated by royal charter in 1823. The building is a handsome modern edifice, si- tuated at the north extremity of the town. The Religious Societies are, the Auxiliary Bible So- ciety, the Ladies’ Bible Association, the Sunday School Union Society of Canada, the Montreal Auxiliary Re- ligious Tract Society, and the Montreal Wesleyan Auxiliary Missionary Society. Of Schools, the principal are, the Montreal Grammar School, the Union School, the National School, and the Montreal British and Canadian School ; the last mentioned was instituted by a society, on the 21st Sep- tember, 1822, and is supported by voluntary contribu- tion. Philanthropic Societies. — These institutions are, the Montreal Central Auxiliary Society for Education and Industry in Canada ; the Ladies’ Society for promoting Education and Industry in Canada ; the Society for House of Industry in Montreal ; the Orphan Asylum ; and the Montreal Hibernian Benevolent Society. The Orphan Asylum is supported and conducted by the La- dies, and the Hibernian Society was established 17 th February, 1823, solely for assisting poor emigrants from Ireland, as they variously need. 122 JOURNAL OF A TOUR The Literary and Friendly Societies are, the Natural History Society ; the Montreal Library ; the Eclectic Library ; the Advocates’ Library ; the News Room ; the Montreal Mechanics’ Institution ; the Agricultural So- ciety ; and the Montreal Fire Society. Gentlemen of taste and science will realize much gratification from inspecting the museum belonging to the Natural His- tory Society. There are various printing offices in this city, and they are chiefly employed in the printing of newspapers, of which a considerable number issue every week ; and the one entitled the Montreal Herald is considered the leading Newspaper in British America. It is published semi-weekly, by Archibald Ferguson, proprietor, at the Herald office. No. 15, Notre Dame Street; terms, four dollars when delivered in town, and five dollars when sent by mail. Agents in Scotland, Messrs. Robertson and Atkinson, Booksellers, Glasgow ; Mr. W. Black- wood, Bookseller, Edinburgh ; and Mr. James Strachan, Bookseller, Aberdeen. The commercial establishments are, the Montreal Bank, the Savings’ Bank, and the Montreal Committee of Trade. The Montreal Bank is a joint stock company incoi’porated by Act of Parliament, and limited to a specified capital. Days of Discount — Tuesday and Fri- day. Military and Civil Edifices. — Of these there are four, viz. a barracks. Nelson’s monument, a court house, and jail. One day a resident citizen had the kindness to escort me through the town, to show me the public buildings, and, in our circuitous course, we arrived at the monument. It is situated at the head of the New Market, and is a handsome massive pillar, seventy feet high, with the figure of Lord Nelson on the top, look- THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA, 123 ing towards the north. I asked the reason why the fi- gure was placed to front the north ; when it would have looked more graceful, and especially to visitors arriving in port, to have fronted the south } This, he said, was the desire of those who conducted the erection of the monument ; but, added he, that frequently gives offence, and particularly to sailors, for they say that the brave Admiral never turned his back either on sailors or on the water. The parade ground, frequently called the Place d' Armes, on which the troops are exercised, de- serves the attention of a stranger ; while every visitor of Montreal ought to view the interior decorations of the cathedral, with its magnificent columns, its lofty roof, and spacious paintings, which surpass every thing of the kind in British North America, The doors are open daily nearly the whole day-light, and visitors of a respectable appearance may enter and depart at plea- sure. The prevailing religion here, as well as at Quebec, is the Roman Catholic. The clergy derive a revenue from grants of land made to them under the French ad- ministration, and from contributions ordained by the church. There is also a principal source of revenue from the fines of transfer, which amount to 8 per cent, payable by the purchaser of real estate, every time it is sold ; which extends to all sales of heritable property within the Seigniory of Montreal ; and the clergy have the Seigniorage of the whole island. ITINERARY, Saturday, June ll^A. — My companion and I spent this day in viewing the city, and in transacting business. 124 JOURNAL OF A TOUR The weather was very hot, beyond any thing of the kind I had ever felt, so much so, that in the course of one hour after dressing in clean linen, it became wet like muslin paper newly taken out of water. On account of the great heat, we were obliged to go frequently into taverns, and take a glass of soda water, lemonade, or brandy and water. This gave us an opportunity of see- ing how they sold liquor here, which I think is to good account. The cheapest which I saw sold, in the various places we visited, was foiirpence per glass, and some as high as sixpence. A glass of soda water, lemonade, beer, and cider, is the fill of a small tumbler containing about half an imperial pint ; but a glass of spirits or wine, is only the fill of a wine glass. Few kinds of spirits or wine in this country exceed one penny per glass wholesale, and some kinds not so much. How- ever, in the ordinary taverns they generally charge four- pence a glass for any kind of liquor ; but in the hotels they charge sixpence per glass, and for some particular kinds more. So it is not for nothing that one takes a friend through a dozen of the hotels and taverns of Montreal. When we went to take a passage to Prescott, the clerk at the olfice informed us that the coaches started every lawful day, at four o’clock in the morning. One company has the whole line of stage coaches and steam boats betwixt Montreal and Prescott ; where one of the steamers is ready to start \vhen the ]\Iontreal stage ar- rives ; by which means, passengers are conveved to the various ports on the Canada side of Lake Ontario. From Montreal to Prescott is one hundred and fort}' miles, and the regular fare by the stage line is eight dollars; so we engaged a passage for Monday morning. It is the custom here, that passengers going with the THROUGH BRITISH A.MERICA. 125 Stage, and lodging in any of the genteel hotels, that the coach is sent to the door for them ; and those ar- riving by the stage are also taken to the door of their lodgings. People going up the country who have hea- vy luggage, must give it in charge to a forwarder, and they send goods or luggage to any port on Lake Onta- rio, for about half a dollar per cwt. There are various forwarders in Montreal ; but for carefulness, perhaps few surpass Charles Bowman, Esq., and his extensive premises are near to the place where the steam boats lie. Besides the stage line, there is another conveyance for going up the country ; and that is, by the Durham or Bateaux boats, of which, the former are preferable, because they are decked vessels, and the latter are not. These boats start from the low'er end of the Lachine canal, which is only a little distance above where the steamers lie, and go up the canal to the village of La- chine, a distance of nine miles, where they enter the river again. So by this means they get above the ra- pids of Lachine, which interrupt the navigation of the St. Lawrence betwixt Montreal and this village. The boats then proceed up Lake St. Louis to Cascades, a distance of twenty-four miles. The current here is very rapid for sixteen miles, and the boats are drawn up in shore by horses to Coteau du Lac. From Coteau to Cornwall is forty-one miles, and no rapid occurs all the way ; but the remaining distance to Prescott, which is fifty miles, the current of the river is rapid all along, and the passage up, as may be supposed, is but slow. Passengers on these boats are charged one dollar each, and children half price ; each passenger is allowed a small trunk, and all luggage besides that, is charged at the rate of eighteen pence per cwt. The ordinary time M 126 JOURNAL OF A TOUR required for this conveyance, is from one to two weeks, according as the wind is favourable or not ; but passen- gers can frequently go on shore, and purchase victuals from the inhabitants along the river side. Sunday y June \2th , — My companion and I slept in a double bed-room, and nothing interrupted our repose this morning till seven o’clock, when the larum bell was sounded through the avenues of the house, to warn lodgers to rise. We got ready in time to reach the bar- room before the breakfast bell was rung at half-past se- ven, so we had a glass of bitters to prepare the stomach for receiving a good breakfast. In the forenoon, we went to the cathedral ; and, notwithstanding their being upper and lower galleries, the church was much crowd- ed. As the weather was very warm, the heat became suffocating, and we found it necessary to retire before the service was over ; but we walked round the square in front of the cathedral, till the congregation dismissed. The country people generally drive to church in gigs or calashes, which they place in a range on the north side of the square, ana we counted about forty calashes, six gigs, and tw^o handsome coaches. The horses are not unyoked during the time the people are in church, but a boy is procured for waiting upon each six. Each of the coaches is drawn by a handsome pair, and waited on by a driver and footman. When the people began to dismiss, those who had the gigs and calashes stepped into them, and drove off in fine style ; so by the time the last of the congregation was dismissed, I might say with propriety, that I had never seen a more numerous or splendid assembly issue from a church. In this city the ladies are elegantly drest ; generally in satin, gauze, silk, lace, and muslin dresses ; with fine leghorn, satin, and gause bonnets, richly trimmed THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 127 with ribbons, and frequently ornamented with flowers or feathers. Owing to the heat of the climate in sum- mer, veils, fans, and parasols are very fashionable ; gold and silver bracelets, and waist clasps are generally worn ; and a gold chain and watch completes the dress. The gentlemen are handsomely drest, either in sur- touts or dress-coats, frequently vvhite pantaloons, and vests of fancy mosile, silk, or silk velvet ; but here, as well as at Quebec, a considerable number dress without a vest. Besides black and drab, there are a consider* able number of leghorn hats ; this latter kind are par- ticularly adapted to summer wear, being very light, and having broad brims to shade the sun. A consider- able number of the gentlemen wear gold rings, a gold or silver guard, with a gold watch, chain, and seals. The ladies here are equally pleasing in their persons, and rather more dignified in their deportment, than the ladies of Quebec. As to the gentlemen, they are infe- rior to none I have ever seen, and frequently add to an elegant figure, the advantages of a pleasing person ; which often brings to remembrance the fine, open, pleasing countenances of the young gentlemen who usually gladden the scenes of Aberdeen. This afternoon, my companion wanted a calash to take a drive to the country ; but there are so many here who want to drive out to the country on a Sabbath afternoon, that not one was left on the stand at the old market square. Being disappointed in this, we took a walk out to the north side of the town ; and here it was gratifying to behold the pleasant farms, gardens, and orchards. This island is mostly cleared, excepting the mountain, so that being very fertile, and in a high state of cultivation, it resembles a garden. We return- ed to our lodgings a little before seven, and soon after 128 JOURNAL OF A TOUR the supper bell was rung. It is unnecessary to describe the way of boarding here, as it is similar to what is mentioned on board the steam boat. There is little so- ciality at table, in a large establishment where there are a great many boarders. The people of this country gener- ally eat voraciously fast, and as soon as they have finish- ed, up they start, and away they go. In the house I have been in, there have been about forty gentlemen at table every day I have been here ; and by the time the last of them are sitting down to table, the first of them are starting to go away. This evening being very warm, a considerable number of the gentlemen went to the balcony to enjoy the cool air, immediately after supper was finished ; there were chairs for such as chose to sit down, so that my companion and I went among the rest. At this time, we could hear from the open windows of the circumjacent buildings, above half a dozen of musical instruments ; among which were vio- lins, flutes, and key-bugles. Some charlatanical people may say, that these were playing church music ; but I say they were generally playing the airs of well known Scotch songs, and one of the gentlemen with a violin came to a door opposite to us, at no very great distance, and played " Wha’ll be king but Charlie,’^ in fine style. After this, my companion and I took a walk out by the hay market ; the gigs and calashes were now driving into town in half dozens from the Lachine road, as it is a favourite walk. These contained parties who had gone out for recreation, and they drove with such fury, that the dust rose in clouds above the tops of the houses ; so that in order to avoid the dust, we directed our course to the orchards and gardens along the foot of the mountain. As it became dark, vivid flashes of lightning skimmed along the mountain, as it frequently THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 129 does in the summer evenings ; and as it began to rain, we returned to our lodgings. When we entered the bar-room, about twenty of the lodgers were there, some talking, others drinking, and some smoking cigars. One of the gentlemen who was smoking a cigar, ap- peared to have recently tasted several glasses of spirits ; he was very loquacious withal, and, in order to give em- phasis to a certain part of his oration, (which, without that, was not worth hearing), he held the cigar in his hand till he should reach the first period. However, by the time of reaching it, he was so exhausted, that he hastened to taste the sweet cigar while his lungs Avere resting, and, as awkward things do sometimes hap- pen, the burning end happened to go into his mouth. He presently dashed it from him, cursed, and spit, and cursed again ; the rest of the gentlemen laughed till sides of steel might well nigh split, and, as the ofiend- ing cigar lay smoking on the floor, the indignant ora- tor stamped it with rage. Wlien the conversation was resumed again, one of the gentlemen, who appeared to be an importer of British goods, addressed a sprightly young man as follows; “ O Sir, I have got some fine prints from London this time, there are some beautiful ladies* heads, I really think you ought to buy some of them.’* The reply was, “ O sir, but when I get a beautiful lady’s head, I wish to have the rest of the bo- dy with it.” This afforded another hearty laugh; but, having to rise early in the morning, we left the com- pany, and went to bed. ROUTE FROM MONTREAL TO PRESCOTT. Monday^ June V3tk , — This morning we started at M 3 130 JOURNAL OF A TOUR half- past three o’clock, and immediately after four, the coach drove up in front of the building, when we pre- sently set off for the Upper Province. The coaches in this country are much larger inside than those of Bri- tain ; the back and front seats are sufficiently large to hold three passengers each, with room betwixt for a seat to hold other three ; so a full complement in a stage coach here is nine persons. However, there are no outside passengers, neither is there a guard ; the tops of the coaches are railed in, and appropriated to convey passengers’ luggage, also a place on the back capable of holding two or three trunks ; and each passenger is allowed a small trunk or other light luggage. The company here keep coaches in reserve ; so when the way bill is made up, there are as many coaches ordered to the office as are required to convey the whole of the passengers. The office of this establishment is in the court of the Exchange Coffee House, St. Paul’s Street. ^^^len the coaches have collected the passengers from the various hotels, they meet here before starting. It appeared by the way bill, that the number of passen- gers this morning amounted to thirty-four ; this requir- ed four coaches, and each is drawn by four horses, so when they started from Montreal, within a short dis- tance of each other, in the stillness of a fine summer morning, they presented a lively scene as they drove out the Lachine road. As we passed along in the fresh- ness of the early morning, the picturesque scenery a- round was very pleasing ; the south side of the moun- tain was beheld at a short distance, and the beautiful white mansions, forming an agreeable contrast to the surrounding orchards and gardens. On the south, the river exhibited a sheet of water, with a beautiful land- scape on each side ; and, as the rising sun began to ap- THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 131 pear over the eastern mountains, and gild the various objects with a golden tinge, the whole presented a scene highly delightful, and so deeply impressive, as long to be remembered. The distance to Lachine is nine miles, and the landscape is very agreeable the whole way, frequently presenting' rural scenes. About six o’clock, we arrived at Lachine. This village is plea- santly situated along the side of the river, with a hand- some church, surmounted by a spire, and situated at the lower end of the village, on the margin of the river. The coaches drove to the wooden v/harf where the steam boats lie, ready to start when the Montreal stage arrives. One of the steamers goes up the Ottowa with passengers going to Bytown, and the other to Cascades with passengers going the Prescott line. In the course of a few minutes, these steam boats started for Cascades, at the head of Lake St. Louis. This lake is formed by an expansion of the rivers Ottowa and St. Lawrence, at their junction ; it is a few miles broad, and twenty- four miles long. About an hour after we were on board, the cabin bell was rung for breakfast ; a con- siderable number appeared at table, so that the cabin of this small steamer was nearly full, and all those who chose to breakfast here had to pay half a dollar at the bar. A little before we landed, the other steamer left us, and turned to ^he right up the Ottowa. By eleven o’clock we arrived at Cascades, and the coaches were standing near the wharf, ready to receive passengers. Cascades is situated at the junction of the St. Lawrence with the Ottowa. There are settlements all along here, but nothing deserving the name of a village. The steam boat navigation of the St. Lawrence is interrupted here by the beautiful rapids of the Cascades, where the ri- ver comes rolling and foaming with majestic grandeur, 132 JOURNAL OF A TOUR and white as milk. The Ottowa is navigable to By- town, where the Rideau canal commences ; and the wa- ters of this river are of a brown colour, but the waters of the St. Lawrence above this are of a beautiful clear sea green. In mild weather each keeps its own side to Montreal, a distance by the windings of thirty-six miles ; while the different colours of these two rivers can be distinctly seen on either side all along, and the place where they meet in the midst of this united stream, the majestic St. Lawrence disdaining to mix with the tor- pid waters of the Ottowa. The distance from Cascades to Coteau is sixteen miles. It is well settled all along here, and the road is generally near the bank of the ri- ver. The dwellings appear comfortable, and there are excellent fields of wheat, barley, Indian corn, and po- tatoes. As to the cleared land, it extends back from the river about a mile more or less ; but from the nu- merous stumps of trees still standing in them, a con- siderable part of the fields appear to have been lately brought into cultivation. The village of Cedars is about half way betwixt Cascades and Coteau ; it is de- lightfully situated on a high bank of the river, and has a pretty church, with a considerable number of dwel- lings. Along this stage, the road is generally very bad ; in the spring of the year it cuts to the depth of twelve or eighteen inches, and when summer sets in, it dries up in this rough condition, so that we had it rough enough, and rougher than I ever saw a coach pass on. It frequently runs near the edge of the river, even when it happens to be on the brink of a precipice ; and there are numerous small brooks which fall into the St. Law- rence, each being crossed by a wooden bridge of some twenty yards long, and only about tw^o feet above the water, without a vestige of railing, and only a little THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 133 broader than the coach. There is generally an acclivi- ty on each side, and the driver puts the horses to the gallop at the top of the stopping bank, then drives with fury alongst the corderoy bridge, and half up the other side. This is by no means agreeable, and the rest of the passengers disliked it as well as I. I did not like the coach at all on this stage, because the road was very bad, but the rest thought little about it, being accustomed to the roads of the country. About two o’clock, we arrived at Coteau du Lac ; the coaches drove to the wharf, and men from the steam boat pre- sently put the luggage on board. The steam boat here is always ready to start on the arrival of the Montreal stage, so that in a few minutes we were under way again. Coteau du Lac is situated at the Lower end of Lake St. Francis. Here the dense settlements along the north shore of the lake form a scattered village for two or three miles, but there is no church here. Soon after we went on board, the cabin bell was rung for dinner ; a considerable number appeared at table, and we had a very excellent dinner, for which each was charged half a dollar at the bar ; and, being treated of- tener than once by the gentlemen who had been in the stage coach with me, I could see that spirits and wine were sold as high as sixpence per glass. The distance from Coteau to Point M ‘ Gee, is thir- teen miles up the Lake. This is the place of the boun- dary line between Lower and Upper Canada ; the other end of the line terminates at Point Fortune on the Ot- towa river, seventy-five miles below Bytown, where the river forms the boundary above that, and the length of the line betwixt the two rivers is generally reckoned forty-five miles. So the province of Upper Canada, is that track of country which lies above this line, bounded 134 JOURNAL OP A TOUR on the north by the Ottowa or Grand River, and on the south and west, by the St. Lawrence and lakes, which form the boundary line here betwixt British America and the United States. Lake St. Francis is formed by an expansion of the St. Lawrence. It is about thirty miles long, and ten broad ; but the steam boat plies up the river to Corn- wall, which is forty-one miles above Coteau. The vil- lage of Lancaster is situated on the north side of the lake ; it is about twenty miles above Coteau, and has a church with several good dwelling houses. This is at the Glengary settlement, and the country here is thick- ly inhabited for several miles back. The steam boat generally stops at Lancaster, either with or for passen- gers. As the weather was fine this afternoon, the sail up the lake was very pleasant ; the nearness of the north shore gave to every prominent object its natural perspicuity ; and the beautiful islands interspersed through the glassy waters of the lake, together with the opening landscape to the south showing the towering mountains in the States, to the distance of forty miles, filled up the back ground of this wild and majestic scene. The supper bell was rung a little before eight ; those who went to supper were charged two shillings each, but there were some who preferred to stay on deck, and take a glass of wine and a cracker. At nine in the evening, we arrived at Cornwall, and the coaches were waiting at the landing place ; the number of passengers on the way bill had now decreased to eighteen, so two coaches were sufficient to convey the company. Corn- wall is quite a small village, but it contains a Catholic church, an English church, a Presbyterian kirk, and a Methodist chapel. At and above this village, the river forms the boundary line between Upper Canada and THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 135 the United States ; and, about five miles below this, the boundary line leaves the river, where it passes through the Indian village of St. Regis, so both sides of the ri- ver below St. Regis belongs to British America. As soon as the luggage was fixed, the gentlemen took their seats, and the two coaches started for Prescott, a dis- tance of fifty miles. The night was dark, and, although each coach had two lights, we could see but very little, for the houses in the village and along the road were but dimly visible. I happened to be seated in the front seat, with one on each side. Some of the gentlemen put on their great coats, and for fear of cold I took a cloak into the coach with me, but this was unnecessar)% for I soon found it too warm without a cloak. As the evening was warm, both sides of the coach were left open from back to front, and, in a little time after leav- ing the village, I was surprised to see the resemblance of a shower of sparks among the trees. This was no- thing more nor less, than fire flies. I had never seen any of them before. They are very numerous in the woods of this country during the months of June and July. As they sported in thousands among the trees and bushes along the banks of the St. Lawrence, in the stillness of a fine summer evening, they presented a scene at first sight, both foreign and lively to a north- born Briton. In the course of an hour, some of the gentlemen began to sleep, for all had been obliged to start before four in the morning, so that with the fatigue of the journey, and the heat of the day, every one felt heavy, and began to nap. Now and then a hat was dropping down among our feet, and mine among the rest, for I think I never felt more oppressed with sleep in my life. The road here is very bad ; we were often shaken and dashed against each other, and at times we 136 JOURNAL OF A TOUR were all awakened together ; if one happened to be pitched out of his seat, there was a general round of laughter, and generally very amusing observations were made on these occasions. Our situation here was tru- ly a strange one to me ; at one time we were oppressed with sleep, at another we awoke to enjoy a hearty laugh at some harmless accident. However, each appeared willing to support the task ; if one was dashed against another, it was taken in good part, and if one happened to fall asleep on the shoulder of another, no one found fault. Now, on the score of civility I should have been sorry to be wanting, more than the rest ; so sometimes one of my neighbours would lean on my shoulder and take a nap, the other would do the same to prevent his hat from falling over the side of the coach, then I would try to support them from falling, but in the meantime, would fall asleep myself, and there we were, till the coach wheel struck some overgrown stone, or sank in a cut trench of the road, and pitched us from the seat, w^hich awakened us all with a vengeance. About two o’clock, a gentleman from Montreal, on awaking from a nap, found that his hat was gone over the side of the coach ; as it was dark, and, not knowing how far dis-^ tant it might be, it was thought unnecessary to look after it. In short, the night was spent in a singular and unpleasant way, and, at four o’clock when it be- came light, we had the misery to learn that the wretch- ed drivers had only brought us fourteen miles, having spent nearly seven hours on that. Now the gentlemen agreed that we could have walked the distance in less time, and some of them said as comfortably ; for these salmagundi drivers made the horses move so slowlv, then they stopped so long when they gave the horses water, and besides they made so many stops, that the THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 137 gentlemen were quite out of patience with both the drivers, and gave them a hearty scolding. So, for fear of being reported at Montreal, when they set off again, they drove much quicker, and brought us to Campbeirs tavern, to breakfast, at seven o’clock, which was other fourteen miles ; but they should have taken us to Pres- cott to breakfast, and Campbell’s is twenty-two miles from that place. However, on arriving here, we walk- ed in, and ordered breakfast ; but it was long before it was ready. All those who chose to wait, were shown into a dressing-room, where there were plenty of basins, soap, water, towels, and mirrors. After dressing was over, the gentlemen w'ent to the bar, and had a glass of bitters, to cheer their drooping spirits, after the fa- tigue of so unpleasant a night. In the course of an hour, we were shown into a large room, where the breakfast was set ; so, as this was the first breakfast I saw in Upper Canada, I shall here state what it con- sisted of. In the first place, there was tea and coffee, cold beef, pork, ham, and potatoes, with plenty of bread, butter, crackers, and eggs. As we retired from table, each paid for himself at the bar ; now a breakfast here costs two shillings, and spirits and wine fourpence per glass. By this time, the coaches were ready to start, so the gentlemen resumed the seats they had occupied through the night. By nine o’clock, the fog was gone, and the morning became clear and very warm. The St. Lawrence is very pretty here, with its beautiful islands of various shapes and sizes, covered with wood to the water’s edge ; while the American shore with its smiling fields and cheerful dwellings, adds greatly to the beauty of the scene. The clearances on the Ca- nada side extend about a mile from the river, more or less ; but the farms and dwellings are of a varied ap- N 138 JOURNAL OF A TOUR pearance, some good, and others indifferent. The land here is of a sandy soil, and generally not good, bat ap« parently it is poorly farmed, and, by good cultivation, might be much improved. The clearances on the American side are not so numerous nor so extensive ; but if one could judge rightly from the distance, the land appears far superior to what it is on the Canada side at this place. About twelve at noon, we arrived at Prescott ; so this being the end of the Montreal line of stages, the coaches drove to a hotel, and the steam boats lie at a little distance. The companion who had come from Quebec with me, and had asked me to stay a week at his house, in the bustle of dismounting from the coach, set off to the wharf without me ; so as soon as I per- ceived that he was gone, I presently followed. But there happened to be two steamers nearly ready to start, and as I reasonably thought there would only be one starting on the arrival of the Montreal stage, so I expected all was right when I found that. However, the two were both starting, and my companion happen- ed to go on board the one and I on board the other, and thus unexpectedly we were parted for ever. Now it was the Alciope which I went on board of, so when I learnt that she was ready to start for the head of the lake, I went presently to the cabin, to ask if there was a vacant berth. But as the cabin door is approached by a flight of steps on each side, by the time I had reached thither, to my surprise, I beheld on the top of the opposite stair, Mr. J. jMacdonald who crossed the Atlantic with me. The young man presently leaped down the stair into my arms, and hastily asked, “ O, where are you going, where are you going ? ” The re- ply was, ‘‘ To Cobourg.” He then exclaimed, ‘‘ So am THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 139 I, SO am I.*' As neither of us expected ever to meet again in this world, after parting at Quebec, it is not to be wondered at that our accidental meeting here, to have another voyage together, was very agreeable to both parties ; and it proved a timely relief to me for the loss of my travelling companion. Prescott is a large village, situated on the north side of the St. Law- rence, with a gentle acclivity to the rear ; which gives it a pleasing effect when viewed from the river. There are both stone and wooden houses here ; but the frame buildings are the prettiest, and generally painted white as snow. Besides the private dwellings, there are four places of public worship, viz. a Catholic church, an English church, a Scotch church, and a Methodist cha- pel. Ogdensburg in the States is opposite to Prescott, si- tuated on the east side of the Oswegatche river, at its confluence with the St. Lawrence. This beautiful vil- lage contains one hundred and fifty houses, with a po- pulation of one thousand. Its public buildings are three churches, a court house, a military fortification, and a barracks. The British government erected the fortification, which consists of two stone buildings, and the barracks, which were erected of wood, but these were ceded to the United States in 1796. The village stands on a gentle ascent, and with its white houses, and the spires of the churches, has a graceful and plea- sing appearance from Prescott. The river betwixt these two villages is one mile and a fourth broad. This may be considered the outlet of Lake Ontario : the steam-boat navigation terminates here, as the St. Law- rence forms a rapid below ; but the channel gradually expands above till it becomes a great lake, and the 140 JOURNAL OF A TOUR steamers ply without interruption, to any port betwixt Prescott and the head of Lake Ontario. RATES FOR PASSAGE. The proprietors of the undermentioned steam boats, established the following rates for the season, 1831 : — From Prescott to Brockville, and vice versa. For each Cabin Passenger, 2 6 For each Deck Passenger, 0 13 From Prescott and Brockville to Kingston, and vice versa. For each Cabin Pjissenger, including fare, ^ 0 12 6 For each Deck Passenger, 0 6 3 From Prescott to Cobourg, Port Hope, and vice versa. For each Cabin Passenger, including fare, ♦♦ 1 10 0 For each Deck Passenger, 0 10 0 From Prescott to York, Burlington Bay, Niagara, and vice versa. For each Cabin Passenger, including fare, 2 0 0 For each Deck Passenger, 0 12 6 From Kingston to York, Burlington Bay, and Niagara. For each Cabin Passenger, including fare, ♦♦ 1 10 0 For each Deck Passenger, 0 10 0 From Cobourg to York, Burlington Bay, and Niagara. For each Cabin Passenger, including fare, 0 15 0 For each Deck Passenger, *^^**^^^*^^ 0 7 6 From York to Burlington Bay, and Niagara. For each Cabin Passenger, including fare, 0 12 0 For each Deck Passenger, ^»***^**»^^^^ 0 5 0 THROlTGa BRltlSft AMERICA. 141 Prom Burlington Bay to Niagara. For each Cabin Passenger, including fare, 10 For each Deck Passenger, 0 5 RATES FOR FREIGHT. From Niagara, Burlington Bay, and York, to Prescott. For every Barrel of Ashes, 0 2 For every Barrel of Pork, Beef, Lard, &c.^^ 0 1 For every Barrel of Flour, All other Articles in the same proportion. For every I 5 For every Ox or Cow, 1 0 For every Parcel too small for weight, 0 1 From Prescott to Cobourg, York, Burling- ton Bay, and Niagara. For every Cwt. of Merchandize,^^^^^^^^^^ 0 1 For every Horse, 1 3 For every Ox or Cow, 1 0 For every Parcel too smaQ for weight, 0 1 0 0 6 10 H 0 0 6 3 0 0 G The steam boats which ply betwixt Prescott and Niagara are, the Great Britain, the Alciope. the Queenston, and the Niagara. The above steam boats are all fitted up with every necessary convenience for* the comfort of passengers ; but the public approbation runs highest in favour of John Hosier, commander of the Niagara, and this handsome steamer leaves Prescott every Thursday, after the arrival of the Montreal stage* 142 JOURNAL OF A TOUR VOYAGE FROM PRESCOTT TO COBOURG. Owing to some unforeseen event, it was some time after the arrival of the stage, before the Alciope was ready ; but at last she started for Brockville, which is twelve miles above Prescott, and the first place usually touched at on the upward passage. Brockville is a beautiful small town, and one of the four in Upper Ca- nada which sends a member to Parliament ; it is situ- ated on a high bank, the main street running parallel with the shore, and is intersected at right angles by the smaller streets. There are both stone and frame buildings here, of which a considerable number are very handsome, each with an orchard and garden attached. Besides the pri- vate dwellings, this town contains four places of public worship, and the court house of the county ; the Ca- tholic and English churches are handsome edifices, each surmounted with a spire, and the Scotch church and Methodist chapel are both neat buildings. There are various schools here, two printing offices, and some ex- cellent stores of merchandize. This thriving town is rapidly increasing, and at present bids fair for becoming one of the most important places in the province. It was towards the close of the afternoon when the steam boat left Brockville, so we had not advanced very far above this, when the cabin bell was rung for supper. By the time supper was finished, it became dark, so those who had spent the former night in the stage coaches, w'^ere glad to retire to bed. Wednesday, June \bth . — This morning I started at seven, and went on the promenade deck ; the weather was delightful, and the lake smooth as glass ; it was truly pleasing to behold the sprightly steamer glide THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 143 along in the freshness of a fine summer morning ; and before eight o’clock, we arrived at Kingston. This town was commenced by the British in 1784, and presently became the capital of Upper Canada ; but the seat of government has lately been removed to York, which is now become the capital. Kingston is a small but neat town, situated on the west side of a narrow bay ; it lies low and level, with a very moderate acclivity from the shore. There are both stone and frame buildings here, but particularly the former ; the streets are straight, and cross each other at right angles ; the pavement is generally rough, but there are some fine rows of poplar and other trees along the edge of the pavement to shade the houses from the sun. This compact little city contains six places of public worship. The Catholic church, English church, and Scotch church, are all spacious edifices, each surmounted with a spire or tower. There is also a jail and a capa- cious court house. The barracks and fort are on the opposite side of the bay, and the communication betwixt is by a long wooden bridge of eighteen arches. The fort is about half a mile from the city, on the top of a high point of land which projects into the lake, where it has a fine command of the bay on the approach to the town. The government dock yard is on the same side as the fort, betwixt and the town. Here are some of the man-of-war ships which formerly plied on the lake, but they are now in a decayed state. This bay, which lies in at Kingston, forms the entrance from Lake Ontario to the Rideau canal ; and one of the arches of the wooden bridge is constructed in such a manner as to be thrown open and let vessels pass. This canal is nearly finished, and it is expected to be ready for vessels to pass up and down by the opening of the spring navi- 144 JOURNAL OF A TOUR gation, after which sloops from Lake Ontario can pass through the canal to Bytown, where they enter the Ottowa, whence they proceed down the river to Lachine, then pass through the Lachine canal, and either deliver their freight at Montreal or proceed to Quebec. King- ston is a town of considerable trade, and the Rideau canal may still add to it ; but the soil here is generally poor, and the adjacent country is not improving fast, as the new settlers generally prefer good land, although at a considerable distance from a town. I conceive it will be gratifying to the friends of humanity in general, and to those who contribute to philanthropic institutions in particular, to mention, that in this small city there is an establishment, conducted and supported by the ladies of Kingston, called theFemale Benevolent Society. It was instituted chiefly to relieve indigent females who are sick or infirm ; and, by the report of the annual meeting of the Society, held on the 30th April, 1831, the following account of their proceedings for the bygone year was laid before the Society : — Admitted into the Hospital, 57 Out Pensioners, 37 Supplied ^yith Medicines at their own lodgings, 96 The whole amount of persons relieved, 190 Died in the Hospital, ^*^^^-^*^*»*^****^*^^ m ^^ 4* Of the number admitted, forty-four were from Ireland, nine from England, one from Scotland, one from the United States, one from Portugal, and one from Canada. Of these, thirty-seven were Roman Catholics, nineteen Episcopalians, and one Presbyterian. The expenditure amounted to 131 16 3 Proceeds of their Annual Bazaar, besides the expenses, of 9 : 4< : 1, 432 9 8 THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 145 Thus the proceeds of the Ladies’ Bazaar at Kingston exceeds that of Quebec, although the latter city has many advantages. It was thought very handsome when the Ladies’ Bazaar at Quebec realized the sum of four hundred pounds, but the Kingston Bazaar brought thirty-two pounds nine shillings and eight pence more. A few of us who had been traversing town returned to the steam boat ; the starting bell was presently rung, and in a few minutes the vessel started off for Cobourg. The view of the lake from Kingston is limited, as Grand Island lies opposite to it, and only a short distance off. This island is several miles long, and covered with wood to the water’s edge, without any appearance of dwelling or clearances. After passing the head of this island, the lake seems to expand all at once ; the prospect before being contracted by the cluster of islands which lie betwixt this and Brockville, and from which it de- rives the name of Lake of the Thousand Isles, although, on a more minute examination, the number of islands is found to be about seventeen hundred. About six miles above Grand Island, a steam boat was bearing fast down upon us, and in a little time passed within a few rods. Both vessels had their decks well peopled with passengers, which contributed to enliven the scene ; the expanded lake lay before us with its bright green waters ; the land bounded on the north and east only a few miles off ; at a considerable distance, the blue mountains in the States were seen extending along the southern shore as far as vision could reach ; the glassy waters glanced with the sun ; while the curling track of the paddles of both steamers could be distinctly seen for half a mile. On the other vessel’s near approach to us, one of the gentlemen on board commenced playing the old “ Highland Laddie” on a key bugle. Thus, 146 JOURNAL OF A TOUR while the two sprightly steamers glided through the glassy lake, the music fell so sweet and soft on the ear as gave to this deeply impressive scene a momentary enchantment. At twelve noon the cabin bell was rung. Some of us expected it was for dinner, but on entering the cabin we perceived it was a cold collation. This is not common on board all the steam boats ; however, there was such variety presented here, that, with very little exception, it was equal to a dinner in any of the chief hotels in Canada. After this the company returned to the platform on deck, which is furnished during the day with plenty of chairs ; so the cabin passengers amused themselves here till four in the afternoon, when the dinner bell was rung. On entering the cabin, an excellent dinner was elegantly displayed. It is generally the fashion in this country, when there is soup at dinner, to place the tureen on the sideboard, and not on the table ; consequently I shall not enumerate it as one of the courses, but such as chose were handed a plate of rice soup from the sideboard. Nevertheless, to soup let all honour be due ; it is a liquid meat, and good of its kind ; but I have seldom seen soups in this country, and only a few kinds which I think good. The dinner, then, was composed of four courses, or as a Frenchman would say, “ de quartre services ” The first course is always something of a solid resistance, because it is supposed to be assailed by hungering jaws and a virgin appetite. The first course was roast beef and mutton ; the second, fowls and veal ; and the third, cold pork, ham, and tongue. Some complimentary vegetables gave us their presence, as a kind of necessary attendant to the various services, and which always remain on the table till the end of the third course. Now it may be observed that, at the end of the third course, the table THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 14 / is entirely denuded before the appearance of the fourth course ; but the pause betwixt is as brief as possible. When the fourth course was presented, it consisted of pies, tarts, pudding, and strawberries and cream. The waiters generally retire after the entremets, during the time of the desert ; so each guest helps himself according to his taste, and those whose desires extend beyond their reach must pray their neighbours to lend a helping hand. I had well nigh forgotten to mention, that some excellent rum and whisky were placed round the table in wine decanters, and ice water in a similar manner ; and, as there is a wine glass and tumbler placed before each gentleman, he can help himself to a glass of spirits or grog as he pleases ; and the drink remains on the table till the dinner is finished. After the cloth was removed, dried fruits were presented, viz. nuts, almonds, and raisins. Some of the gentlemen commenced drinking, and pursued that pleasure till supper came ; the rest of us went to the platform on deck, and amused ourselves till dark. About nine the supper bell was rung. The supper here was similar to that of the hotels, and the rest of the steam boats in the country. It consisted of tea, various kinds of cold meat, bread, crackers, and butter. This evening 1 felt rather poorly, and went to bed at an early hour. About half past twelve the large bell was rung, when I presently started from bed, as I knew we were now in the bay of Cobourg, this being the signal to put out a boat for passengers. Now the steam boats and schooners only come into the bay at present, as there is no proper landing place, but there is a fine new wharf building, and to be finished in the fall, after which vessels touching here will come to the wharf. At length a boat came, but it was long before the passengers and their luggage were got into the 148 JOURNAL OF A TOUR boat ; and at two o’clock in the morning about twen passengers were laid on the shore at Cobourg. No the most of these were staying at the shades adjoinir the old wharf, which were erected by government f< the temporary accommodation of poor emigrants, b' three of us who had come from Scotland wanted to f to a tavern. Now each had some luggage, and leave that among all kinds of characters who were goii about would have been very improper ; so one agre^ to watch the luggage while the other two went to fii lodgings. ARRIVAL AT COBOURG. Thursday, June \&th . — We had nearly half a mile 1 go before we reached a tavern, and it was so dark, th; we could not see to read a sign. There are only thrc taverns in Cobourg, and they are all at one plac« However, one of the boatmen who brought us ashon conducted us to the door of one ; we knocked here lou and long, but no one answered ; we then went t another, and, after repeatedly knocking, got admissioi Now, as there was accommodation here for all the thre< the first thing we had to look after next, was to gc the luggage conveyed from the shore ; but being £ such an unreasonable hour, no porter or carter could b obtained, so it was absolutely necessary for us to serv ourselves. Now, by the time the last of the luggag was got up, daylight began to appear, and as the morn ing was mild and clear, I chose a walk for a few miles to see how the country looked, in the freshness of fine summer morning. Along the east road from th village, it is well settled, but the clearances do not ex THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 149 tend far back. The dwellings are arranged on both sides of the road, with the cultivated land in the rear, but, in various places, the wood is still close to the road’s edge, presenting to the traveller, here a field, and there a forest, in grotesque alternation. The land all about Cobourg is generally of good soil, and the farmers are going on in a progressive manner, clearing a few acres now and then, as they find convenient, so that, in a few years, there will be fine farms here. On my return to the village, the sun rose, and what a sub- lime phenomenon of nature was the sun as it were emerging from the beautiful grass green waters of Lake Ontario, which contrasted with the stately dark green forest, while here the smiling farms, and yonder the cheerful village, presented a scene highly picturesque and pleasing. I resolved to stay a few weeks here, to learn the state of the country ; so, in order to see more of country life, I went a few miles from the village, to board at a farm house. After being introduced to the master and mistress, I inquired if they could find it convenient to give me board and lodging for two or three weeks. They both replied they could, and for a longer time if I wanted. They also desired me to make myself comfortable, and added, that I should have every thing the house aflforded, to make me so. I now took them for what they appeared to be, hospitable, good sort of people ; and the truth to speak, they gave me a hearty welcome, after desiring me to make myself at home. By the manner of the people, and the appear- ance of the house, I now believed myself as much at home, as a sojourner in a foreign land could reasonably expect to be, and although I bad no great faith in their proffered friendship, yet I expected it would last as long as my short stay. However, in this I was disappoint- 150 JOURNAL OF A TOUR ed, for their fund of kindness was completely exhausted in two days ; after which, the worthy farmer would not, of his own accord, speak to me once in twenty-four hours, and his brawny goodwife was much the same. But, by this time I had learnt that the natives of this country only love foreigners for their money, or when they otherwise serve their turn, but no longer. So, as it was to serve my turn that I went there, and not for the sake of their kindness, I also considered it proper to stay till the necessary information was obtained. However, as the farmer was both illiterate and unintel- ligent, I had to apply to the neighbours for any infor- mation I wanted. DESCRIPTION OF A TOWNSHIP. The districts are divided into townships, and these are subdivided into concessions and lots. The town- ships are of different sizes, according as it is found con- venient for lakes and rivers, and the laying^ of them out. But, as ten square miles make an ordinary size, I shall take that for example. Now, if the lake or ri- ver shore should happen to be on a line all the ten miles, then the front tier of lots would be all the same size. But, as this seldom happens, a straight road is laid out at a little distance from the unequal lake or ri- ver shore ; so that lots vary in size from two or three acres to two or three hundred acres, and a township is generally reckoned by its square miles, exclusive of the unequal shore. The second road is laid out parallel to the first, at one mile and a fourth distant, which forms the first concession, the third road forms the second concession, and so on, till the last, which is supposed THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 151 to be bounded by a line, until another township shall be laid out in the rear, and then the front road of the second township would bound the rear of the first. As a concession stretches the whole length of a township, taking for each, one mile and a fourth, so there are but eight concessions in a township of ten miles. The concessions are divided into lots, the front of each, one fourth of a mile broad, with a road passing to the rear, betwixt every other lot ; so that in every concession of ten miles long, there will be forty lots, and twenty roads leading to the rear of the township. But, as the lots are laid out exclusive of the roads, a township of this size will be the breadth of the twenty roads more than the ten miles, which at least will be twenty chains, and it will also be so much deeper in proportion, on ac- count of the eight roads which separate the concessions. It has been already intimated, that each lot is one mile and a fourth long, and one fourth of a mile broad ; but to be more particular, the length is one hundred chains, or two thousand two hundred yards, and the breadth twenty chains, or four hundred and forty yards, which makes a farm of two hundred acres. Now, those who want to have a larger farm than one of these lots, can purchase a number of lots beside each other. CLEARANCES AND FARMING. As to settlers purchasing a cleared farm, or one in the forest, this is a point which each must decide for himself. But it may be proper to mention, that new cleared land is always considered a pure crop, but old cleared land is not. Good land in the forest sells here from four to five dollars per acre. But a good farm of 152 JOURNAL OF A TOUR two hundred acres, mostly cleared, with commodious, well finished frame houses, would cost upwards of one thousand pounds. As to forest land, the usual expense of clearing and fencing is about twelve pounds per acre ; but, if the wood is excellent, and near a town, lake, or river, where it can be brought to market, it will proba- bly pay the expense of clearing. At all events, the wood defrays part of the expense, and even when it is burnt, the ashes realize something. The first thing a family will require, when they go to a new farm, is a house, and it is very common in this country, to live in a log house for two or three years after settling on a new farm. A log house contains two rooms, with two windows in front, one for each room, and the door in the middle. The logs of which it is built are sawn down the middle, then placed on their edge, with the rough side out, and cut to join each other at the comers. At places where the logs do not join, the openings are filled up with plaster, or closed with fog ; a temporary chimney is necessary, of either stone or brick, and the roof is covered with rough boards ; after which it is floored, and furnished with a door and windows, which completes the building. There are two ways of accomplishing this : one is by calling in the assistance of the neighbours, as it is cus- tomary to assist on these occasions, and by this means, the house is generally finished in one day, which costs the proprietor merely a gallon of spirits to give them a glass of grog ; the other way is to employ workmen to build the house, and have it ready for the family, before they remove to the place ; but a moderate log house, when reared by contract, generally costs ten pounds A handsome frame building, such as is common among farmers, has a sunk flat for cellars, built with THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 153 stones to the level of the ground, which contains the potatoes, fruit, and other provisions. The frame work commences immediately above ground. This floor ge- nerally contains two handsome parlours, a bed-room, and the staircase. The upper flat contains the dancing hall, and one or two neat bed-rooms. Buildings of these dimensions are frequently forty feet long by thirty deep, and sometimes more. Almost every house of this description is carpeted with beautiful carpeting, which they get from the States, or from Montreal ; and the ordinary price for a pretty pattern, is four shillings per yard. The rooms are handsomely furnished with chairs, tables, sofas, and mirrors ; the walls are either painted or papered, while the flowing drapery of the windows reaches the carpet. As the sun is very strong here in summer, they use thick window blinds, and also shut- ters made of splits, which open to the outside, like fold- ing-doors ; but the windows are of the Scotch fashion through the Upper Province, and, by drawing up the lower half, they can open or fasten the shutters without leaving the room. The kitchen is generally attached in rear of the building, and, besides the necessary ac- commodation for cooking, it contains the servants' apartments, and an eating hall. There is also a brick oven in the kitchen, and they bake their loaf bread themselves, which is the kind daily used ; also biscuit and tea bread when they want it. There are no double windows in Upper Canada; for, the winter being milder than in the lower provinces, these are not required. Stoves are also little used here, except in churches and stores. Grates are sometimes used in rooms, but these are not very numerous. In kitchens, the fire-place is about four feet broad, and the blocks of wood are cut the length, while an iron bar in each side of the chim- o3 154 JOURNAL OP A TOUR ney, with feet about four inches high, supports the wood and lets in the air below, to cause it bum, and the out end of each bar is about one foot high, to keep the wood from rolling off. The ashes are clean swept up and put into a cask, which, with the refuse of the hog*s lard, makes the family soap. All the kitchens I have seen in in the country are floored with wood, as are also the shades, stables, and cow houses. A con- siderable number of the farm houses are pavilion roofed, with one tier of chimneys, and generally covered with shingles, that is, wood cut very thin, in the form of slates, and put on in a similar manner. The interior of a frame house is finished with plaster or lath, but the outside is done with fine dressed boards, and painted white or yellow. The window shutters are generally grass green and varnished, and the roof slate colour. Now, these elegant mansions, with the verdant fields, and the dark green woods, have a light and graceful appearance ; and one of these fine frame buildings will cost from ten to fifteen hundred dollars. But to return to the subject of settling on a new farm. A cow will be found necessar}^ among the first of the domestic stock, and one of these will cost from four to five pounds. One cow will find meat about the roads ; and no one here puts his cows in doors either night or day, during the whole summer, nor do they cut grass and give them. This is partly the reason why cows in America give so little milk ; but if they were better at- tended to, and plenty of meat given them in doors, they would likely give more milk. Taking things as they are, it is generally allowed, that one good cow in Scotland, would give as much milk as two in America. Sheep and hogs can be had as soon as there is meat for them, but little stock will be required till after the THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 155 farm has yielded a crop. A good sheep sells from three to four dollars, and pigs can be purchased for one dol- lar. When a field is cleared and enclosed, sheep and hogs can be kept there without any attention, for the hogs in the fields get no meat but what they find for themselves, unless one or two be taken home to be fed a little better before they are slaughtered : so that it is no unusual thing to see fifty hogs in one field, when it has been some time cleared, and growing plenty of grass. Sheep are sometimes kept by themselves, and sometimes among the cattle or hogs ; but, as farms vary in the extent of cleared land, the stock must vary also ; so that, at one farm there will be ten sheep, at another twenty, at a third fifty, and at a fourth one hundred. When seed time arrives, a yoke of oxen will be re- quired, which will cost from forty to sixty dollars. Now, although the wood has been taken ofi* the land, a con- siderable quantity of broken branches and rubbish will still remain ; but, when the dry weather comes in the spring, this is burnt ; and, when the fire has passed over the field, it is generally considered ready for the seed. The stumps of the trees will still be standing from two to three feet high, and it will require ten years more or less till they are wasted away ; but no one would bestow the enormous expense which it would take to dig them out. The quantity of seed sown into new land is generally one bushel and one peck of wheat per acre ; and the probable return will be about thirtv bushels, Winchester measure. This is by no means thought an extraordinary return here ; and some very fine land about the London district and the Huron territory has been known to yield forty bushels per acre. However, when new cleared land is sown, the oxen are yoked into small break-harrows, which they 156 JOURNAL OF A TOUR drag through the roots of the trees ; and this is a work which oxen are more qualified for by nature than horses, as they stop when the harrows stick fast, but the horses are apt to start and break the harness. After the first year, the land gets a kind of ploughing ; and the oxen will be preferable for this purpose till the roots be wasted away. They also use oxen for driving home firewood, and for dragging the logs off new cleared land ; so that a farmer can make out four or six years without horses, and a very handsome couple can be purchased here from one hundred to one hundred and twenty dollars. It is frequently the way on a new farm, to clear twenty acres the first year, and twenty each succeeding year, till three-fourths of the farm is cleared, and that is all which is generally wanted, as each farmer keeps wood for building, and also firewood and fencewood on his own property. Now, it will be seen, that a farmer commencing on uncleared land will require very little stock to begin with ; and, by the time the farm is cleared, the prolific cow, the ewe, and the female hog, will have increased the stock in a pro- gressive manner, so that a new settler may have a good stock of cattle, sheep, and hogs, in a few years, with very little cost. When a farmer gets into harness here, he must have an orchard and garden. Some plant their fruit trees in the fields, where the land is in crop and pasture in ro- tation ; but others have their orchard in an enclosed corner of a field, and occasionally put sheep into the plat to eat the grass, as they are less destructive among the fruit trees than cattle. But wheresoever the orchard is, no attention is paid to it after it is planted, except what may be necessary to gather the fruit ; and vet they have abundance of excellent apples, pears, plums. THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 157 and cherries. The gardens produce currants, but no other kinds are common in a garden here. Rasps and strawberries grow in the woods, but the people would not be at the trouble to plant them in their gardens, as they are well pleased with what the forest produces. In my opinion, the wild rasps and strawberries flavoured much of a harsh juniper taste. The currants reared in gardens are very fine flavoured, and both rich and large. Each farmer rears in his own garden onions, carrots, cabbages, radishes, early potatoes, turnips, cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, &c. which all grow profusely in the open air. The crops generally reared in the fields are wheat, barley, oats, rye, peas, Indian corn, and potatoes ; but I have never seen a field of turnips in this country, the want of which must be a great loss to farmers for the rearing of cattle. The grain crop, when cut and dried, is all taken into the barn, which is generally a large buildii>g two stories high. The ground floor is occupied by the cattle in winter, and the upper flat is appropriated to contain the crop. Those who engage labourers to thresh can have it done for the tenth bushel, or money equal to that value. Indian corn and potatoes are generally planted with the spade, and these are hoed once but seldom oftener. Potatoes planted this way must also be dug up with the spade, and then they are put in cellars below ground, where they keep till the new crop comes the following summer. Farmers appear to have little knowledge of the use of dung, and scarcely any one thinks of putting a single load upon the fields ; so that, at any farmer’s barn or stable, one may see a dunghill as old as the building. Labourers’ wages are higher here than in the Lower Province. Stout bodied men are readily engaged at twelve dollars per month 158 JOURNAL OF A TOUR with board and lodging. At farm houses, servants generally get washing into the bargain ; but at public works that is never included , and washing is three shillings and ninepence per dozen of pieces, whether shirts, stockings, handkerchiefs, vests, or pantaloons. The wages for female sers^ants are much the same here as in the Lower Province, say from three to four dollars per month. Labourers for cutting hay are engaged at from four to five shillings per day with board, and the same in harvest. Females engaged by the day in har- vest generally get half a dollar each, besides board and lodging. Tradesmen’s wages are rather higher than in the Lower Province. Board and lodging at farm houses is about two dollars per week ; and very good board and lodging can be had at the taverns for two and a half dollars. It is generally the fashion in the States for servants and labourers to sit at the master’s table ; and this practice is also common in British America. However, the farmers here inform me, that servants can be had in Canada without this privilege, if a table be furnished for them equally as good as by the neighbours in the place. As to the people who have been brought up in this country, at a great distance from towns and schools, some of them are nearly as ignorant and uncultivated as the wild woods among w^hich they dwell, and possess, besides, a gi'eat deal of impudence. However, the very lowest here stand up briskly for equality ; and, in ge- neral, they insist on being admitted to table with every master they serve. Although servants may be had without this privilege, yet it must be acknowledged, that some would not serve a master on any other terms. This practice of being admitted to table with the master, appears to relish very well with servants and labourers. THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 159 whether natives or emigrants, but the genteeler sort of people by no means appear fond of it. However, this custom would be less insupportable, if the lower class of the natives would be silent at table, and look and learn, by which they might turn this privilege to their advantage. But they will neither be silent nor learn, and they are so rude and impudent, that a stranger would almost fancy, that, being natives of the forest, they had got wooden heads. In regard to the lower class all over North America, the spirit of independence appears to reign among them without control ; and, so far as their rights and privileges are concerned, they are much to be applauded. However, in some respects they carry their independence too far, and in particular in the utter contempt with which they regard every person superior to themselves. I shall here present an anecdote, of which many similar could be furnished. It is found in a Philadelphia paper, and runs thus : “ Liberty and Equality. — The Duke of Saxe Weimer, travelling last summer in Philadelphia, drove out to visit the Schuylkill Falls. The next morning, standing at the door of the hotel, he was accosted by the coach- man in the following apostrophe : — ‘ Are you the man that drove in the coach yesterday?’ — ‘I drove in a carriage yesterday,’ replied the Duke. — " Because I am the gentleman who drove you, and am come to be paid.’ ” Now, although these cheap gentlemen are very often to be met with, yet the country contains a considerable j)roportion of very genteel people, and a stranger may soon find a circle of very agreeable friends. The wealthy people now are generally giving their children a good education, although they have frequently to put them to boarding schools or academies, which is attended with a great expense. The usual charge here at aca- 160 JOURNAL OF A TOUR demies for boys, or at boarding schools for girls, is forty pounds per annum, and three pounds ten shillings on entering, in lieu of bedding and other contingencies, and out-door pupils generally twelve pounds ; but, at some of the country schools, the elementary branches of education are frequently taught at one pound per quarter. At one time, the greater part of emigrants leaving Britain went to the United States, but now the tide of emigration flows in a more particular manner to British America. One reason assigned for this is, that the taxes are lighter here than in the United States, on account of the British government’s supporting the armv and naw w^hich protects these colonies, while the United States’ legislature has to support an army and navy for itself. But the more special reasons why Upper Canada has become the favourite spot for settle- ment in this vast -region, are, in the first place, that the land in general is considered to be of a superior soil to that of the lower provinces. This is an induce- ment to the agriculturist, and more particularly now than ever it could have been at any former period, as the Welland and Rideau canals open the navigation, by which means produce can be sent to market at remu- nerating prices ; while the particular inducement for tradesmen and labourers is, that wages are higher here than in either the lower provinces or the United States. Consequently, the above advantages have encouraged several hundreds of the Yankeys to emigrate into Upper Canada, particularly tradesmen, who are generally excellent workmen ; and, no doubt, some of the inha- bitants in this province are obliged to these for manv of the conveniences which they enjoy. As to those emigrating to this country whose prin- THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 161 cipal aim is land, each ought to judge for himself. But it is very proper, when purchasing a farm, to see the possession, and to know expressly what rights and titles the exposer can give to the property, before coming to any conclusive bargain. Land in general is very fertile in this province, but there are exceptions. In this district of Newcastle, along the lake shore and for some miles back, the land is of a sandy soil, which generally yields good crops. But, some twenty or thirty miles towards the interior, the soil is a rich black loam, and settlements are now commenced at that dis- tance from the shore. The land in general is better a few miles back from the lakes than it is along the shores ; and, although those who live in the vicinity of the lakes have many advantages for exports and imports, yet these situations are not so friendly to the constitution as the interior, on account of the stagnant vapours of the lakes in summer, which frequently occasion fever and ague. In regard to the Canada Company’s lands, and the districts which lie west of this, various persons who have lately visited these places agree that the land is generally very good, and also that the villages and settlements have a thriving appearance. For the sake of those who are anxious to learn the state of Upper Canada, I subjoin the following account of some of the settlements, which was published in June for the infor- mation of emigrants, and which cannot fail to yield gratification to every person emigrating to this province. THE WESTERN DISTRICT. It has long been a matter of surprise, that the western district, one of the finest in the province of P 162 JOURNAL OF A TOUR Upper Canada, has as yet so little attracted public notice. It was settled long before any of the others, and was at one time the mart of a considerable trade with the Indian country adjacent. Its rich soil and mild climate, it might be supposed, should render il inviting to settlers. Yet migration thus far has taken place so slowly, that its progress is scarcely perceptible ; and, while other parts of the province are increasing in wealth and population, it appears rather strange that this alone should not have thriven in a degree more commensurate with the general growth. In order, therefore, to see its value better appreciated, the fol- lowing short account of this district is given, with some of the local advantages it affords to settlers. The Western Distiict forms the southern extremity- of the province of Upper Canada. It is bounded on the west and north-west bv the river Detroit, Lake St. Clair, and river St. Clair ; on the north, by Lake Huron ; on the south, by Lake Erie ; and east, by the London District. Its coast, bordering on waters navi- gable for vessels of three or four hundred tons burden, extends about two hundred miles. Its extreme breadth, from Lake Erie to Lake Huron, is from eighty to ninet}' miles ; and, from its most southerly point, in latitude 42®, to the London District, the distance is nearly the same, and contains about seven thousand square miles. It is watered by the river Thames, or Acana Saepi, which takes its rise in the London District, and runs in a south- westerly course about two hundred miles, discharging itself into Lake St. Clair. It is navigable for vessels of one hundred and fifty tons, for fifteen or twenty miles from its mouth, and for boats, during high water, in the spring and autumn, for upwards of one hundred miles. At these seasons its waters are very rapid and THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 163 deep, and have been known to rise upwards of twenty feet above their usual level. During the summer, in the upper part of the river, it is shallow, generally fordable, and full of rapids. Its course is nearly parallel to the shores of Lake Erie, from which it is distant in many places only fifteen or twenty miles. About six or seven miles to the north of the Thames, flows East Bear Creek, parallel to the former river. It is nearly equal in size, but not so deep, except at its mouth, nor so subject to freshets. About fourteen or fifteen miles up the river, the bottom is slate, containing between its layers thin strata of coal, very glossy in its appear- ance, burning readily, and emitting a bright flame. Indices of coal are also to be seen at the Thames, a few miles from this place, where a bituminous oil, strongly impregnated with the smell of coal, oozes out of its banks, and, swimming on the surface of the river, is collected in considerable quantities, and used as a medi- cine under the name of Thames oil. These indications lead to the belief, that a considerable bed of this mineral extends from the Thames in a northerly direction. East Bear abounds with mill sites, and empties itself into Big Bear Creek, otherwise called the North Branches, from the circumstance of taking its rise in a northerly direction, and keeping a course nearly south, and pa- rallel to the river St. Clair, from which it is distant from four to five miles, till it is discharged into the Channel Ecarte, one of the outlets of the last-mentioned river. The north is equal in size to east branch of Bear Creek, but its bottom is muddy and water turbid, and is navigable for boats about twelve miles. These are the principal interior rivers, and are, indeed, the only ones deserving the name, as the others are small, and many of them dry up during the summer. 164 JOURNAL OF A TOUR Though the district is for the most part level, yet it is in some places considerably elevated above the lakes. On the borders of the Detroit and Lake St. Clair, there are extensive prairies, some of which are overflowed at certain seasons, and some years more than others, owing to the rise of the great lakes, which are said to ebb and flow every seven years, rising and falling gradually during that period. How correct this may be I cannot venture to say, yet certain it is, that facts seem to corroborate this opinion ; but, whether some inva- riable law of nature or fortuitous circumstances are the causes of these periodical risings and fallings, has not been ascertained. It has also been supposed that a tide exists in the lakes, a mistake probably arising from the almost daily ebbing and flowing of these waters. But this can be readily accounted for from their geogra- phical position, which causes them to be depressed or raised by the winds according to the quarter from which they blow. These prairies, although not at all fit for cultivation, produce great quantities of wild grass, of which those who live in their vicinity avail themselves to raise large herds of cattle with very little trouble or expense. The soil, with few exceptions, is of the very best quality in all parts. Even the worst is fit for cultiva- tion, and it may be safely said, that there is not in any district in the province, an equal body of good land. It produces every species of grain cultivated in the pro- vince, in the greatest abundance, yielding, with very ordinary tillage, and without manure, from twenty to twenty-five bushels of wheat to the acre, and in some places, with but little more care, from forU" to fifty bushels. It is particularly favourable to the growth of Indian corn or maze, and tobacco, which latter is of the THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 165 best quality, and bids fair to rival that of Virginia, and to become a staple. It is very productive, yielding, with proper care, one thousand pounds per acre, and sometimes more. Its culture is particularly well adap- ted to persons possessing small pieces of land, and having large families of young children, who can attend it with more ease than grown persons, at certain stages of its growth. When properly cured and put up, it may be exported to England with advantage, as it has been sold there for sevenpence halfpenny sterling per pound, at which price it affords a greater profit than any other production now raised. Hemp and hops grow spontaneously, and the former will probably, at some distant period, become an article of considerable ex- port. Fruit trees thrive exceedingly well, and produce the best of fruit. Peaches and apples in particular, are in great abundance, and from the latter, cider of so good a quality is made, that it would bear exportation. The forests also contain many fruit trees, among which is the black mulberry, the papaw, and a great variety of nut trees, the latter of which yield some years so abun- dantly, that nuts have been brought to market for one shilling and threepence per bushel. As the black mul- berry is indigenous, there can be little doubt that the white mulberry might be naturalized, and silk worms raised, whenever it might be thought worth while to do so. The best of timber abounds in all the forests, sucli as oak of almost every species, black walnut, cherry, maple, ash, elm, and others of less value. The lakes and rivers contain excellent fish, and great quantities are caught in the spring and autumn, espe- cially at the latter season ; when white fish are taken in such numbers, that, besides what is used for home p 3 166 JOURNAL OF A TOUR consumption, many thousand barrels are salted and shipped every year for different sections of the United States, where they are in great demand. This fish is delicious when fresh, and even when salted, is a most palatable and wholesome food, so that most families in the country lay in a winter stock, particularly the Ro- man Catholics, who use them in lent and on other fish days. The other kinds of fish most generally caught, are the pickrel, maskinonge, pike, sturgeon, cod-fish, ])lack and white bass, and a species of herring, which two last kinds come in shoals, and salmon-trout, which is taken chiefly along the shore of Lake Huron, G^ese of all sorts abound both on the waters and on shore, and to sportsmen, no country offers a finer field for ex- ertion, as the waters teem with wild ducks of every species, and sometimes even swans, the marshes and fields with woodcocks, snipes, and quails, and the woods with deer, wild turkeys, partridges, and grouse. The variety and abundance thus furnished by nature, adds much to the comfort of the people, besides affording cheap and agreeable food, w’hich in other parts of the world is reserved for the wealthy only. The population amounts to upwards of nine thousand souls, which is not two persons for every square mile. It has doubled within the last fifteen years, almost en- tirely by natural increase, a proof, certainly, of the ge- neral healthiness of the countr}’, which has frequently been reported by superficial observ’ers, as quite the re- verse. It is true that certain localities in the vicinitv of marshes and stagnant waters, are insalubrious, and some years subject to agues, and even violent bilious fevers, but this is by no means a general feature through the district, which is equally healthy with any in the province. Nearly one half of the population are Roman THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 167 Catholics, mostly of French origin, who are settled along the strait between Lakes Erie and Huron. They have three parishes. Sandwich, Amherstburg, and at the Thames ; and two priests do the whole duty of these extensive missions. The remainder of the popu- lation is of various origin, chiefly German and Scotch, with some Irish, and a few English. The principal settlements are on the banks of the Thames, East Bear Creek, River St. Clair, Lake Erie, on Talbot Road, and Baldoon. This last place is chief- ly inhabited by Scotch Highlanders, brought out about twenty-six years ago, by the Earl of Selkirk. There is also a settlement forming by a Mr. H. Jones, on the shore of Lake Huron, which is yet in its infancy. Tlie town of Sandwich, which is the seat of justice for the district, would be pleasantly situated, if it were not for a marsh in front, which sometimes renders it unhealthy. It contains only about two hundred and fifty souls, three-fourths of whom are Roman Catholics, and of French extraction. It has a good court house and jail, both under the same roof ; a neat Episcopal church ; a good classical school, endowed by the pro- vince ; and a convent of nuns lately established, where the first elements of French education, and the religious duties of the Roman Catholic faith are taught to young girls. Chatham is a town laid out by Governor Simcoe, and intended by him as a military post. It has, as yet, but a few houses and a church, where there is a resident minister of the Church of England, who has a tolera- bly large congregation. The only other town, or rather village, is Amherst- burg, situated near the entrance of the Detroit river, which contains between seven and eight hundred souls. 168 JOURNAL OP A TOUR the greater portion of whom are French Canadians. It contains a Catholic church and an English church, at- tended by clergymen of their respective religions. There is also a minister of the kirk of Scotland, who will soon have a church. An excellent classical school is now established, and supported by the inhabitants of the place. There is also another school for boys, where the French language and the classics are taught, under the anspices of the Roman Catholic curate, be- sides two schools for girls, which are well supported, and a third contemplated, in which the higher branches of French education will be taught. The appearance of the town has little to recommend it, with the excep- tion of some very good houses, but the environs are truly pleasing. Its fine harbour, the beautiful island of Bois Blanc opposite, and the magnificent Detroit, which flows past it, on which, every day, while the na- vigation is open, vessels and steam boats constantly ply, render it very pleasing and picturesque. It is a military post, and vestiges are yet seen of a fort, erected during the late war with the United States, which has since been allowed to moulder away for want of repair. Within the inclosure is built a substantial brick barrack, in which are quartered about seventy or eighty men, who compose the garrison. The township of Maldon, in which Amherstburg is built, contains but few inhabitants besides those residing in the town, although the land is excellent ; but, having been grants formerly without condition of actual settlement, and to persons who could have no object to bring them into cultivation, they have remained in a state of nuisance to the public. However, some of the proprietors have lately disposed of a few lots, which would probably have been still retained, had not a provident law been THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 169 passed by the legislature, imposing a tax upon all lands belonging to non-residents. Adjoining, and to the north of Maldon, is a beautiful and excellent tract of. land, containing from thirty to forty thousand acres, known as the Huron reserve, and claimed by that peo- ple and various other tribes of Indians. It is inhabited along the part fronting the Detroit, by about a dozen families of the Huron tribe, who cultivate small patches of maze, and some vegetables. The rest of the land lies waste, of no use to themselves or others, except in so far as it serves to furnish the people of Amherstburg with firewood. It is reported that government has in contemplation the purchasing of this tract, for the pur- pose of disposing of it to actual settlers, and it is very desirable that object should be effected, as it would be conferring a benefit on the Indians, as well as on the public, and materially add to the prosperity of Amherst- burg, which is at present hemmed in by forests. The most equitable way of acquiring this land from the In- dians, would be, in the first instance, to allow them to retain for each head of a family resident on the tract, one or two hundred acres to be granted in fee simple, and the rest purchased at its actual value, or sold to actual settlers in lots of two hundred acres, and the fund arising from the sale vested in government stock, of which the Indians should receive the interest. By this means the Indians would be truly benefited, and the government exonerated from the odium of specu- lating on their ignorance and dependence. Colchester, which joins Maldon on the east, is also but partially settled along the lake shore, the back con- cessions being as yet unsurveyed. When these shall be offered for location, which will be in the course of the present year, a fine tract of country will be open for *70 JOURNAL OF A TOUR Settlers who may be inclined to settle themselves ad- vantageously, as they will be within a few miles of Amherstburg, where they can always readily dispose of their surplus produce, and easily obtain assistance for forming their settlement. The Canada Company have a large block of land in this township as well as in Maldon, which they are offering for sale at very mo- derate prices, and on easy terms of payment. A road is opening through the land, and lots laid out on each side of it, which will tend materially to enhance the value of land, by affording greater facility for settle- ment. Gospill is situated to the east of Colchester, and is settled on the fifth concession from the lake, and par- tially on Talbot Road west, which passes through its north-east corner. On this road a range of lots has been laid out, which is in course of actual settlement, and will soon be peopled. This township has some sandy soil in its eastern extremity, but elsewhere it is of good quality. It may not be uninteresting here to mention, that this township exhibits vestiges of settle- ments long prior to the discovery of the country. In many parts are still very visible the remains of what are called Indian forts. In some of these places have been found accumulations of spear-heads, axes, and other instruments, made of flint, in such quantities as to lead to the belief, that there were magazines of these articles kept. Similar forts are to be seen in various places of this district, particularly in the township of Sandwich, along the margin of a great marsh, about a mile or two from the Detroit river, where there is a chain of forts, from w’hich roads have been raised across the marsh instead of bridges, which are still used by the present owners of the soil. In some of these last- THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 171 mentioned forts were discovered human bones of an ex- traordinary size. In one place, on the farm of a Mr. Gogeau, seven skulls were disinterred, all of the same dimensions, one of which having been compared, by the person above named, with the head of a large man, the whole front teeth projected beyond those of the living subject. And what is remarkable, all the bones which have been at different times found at that place, were of the same gigantic size. Near some of the forts in Gosfield have lately been discovered several wells, wal- led round with stone. In one of these was found some potter's ware, of which, similar specimens are frequent- ly picked up in various parts of the district. These remains seem to indicate the residence of a people slightly civilized, whose habits were not wandering, like most of the present natives ; and, from the nume- rous vestiges still remaining, it is probable that the whole of the Peninsula was at one time inhabited by them, and that they pursued agricultural occupations, and built the forts which are still seen, as a defence against the aggressions of some powerful enemy, by whom they were ultimately driven from their native soil, which, falling into the hands of a ruder race, was allowed to grow up into a wilderness, better suited to the habits and pursuits of the conquerors, whose des- cendants, in all probability, were in possession of the country at its discovery. But, that the original pos- sessors were but little civilized, may be inferred from the rudeness of the implements they had in use, the smallness of their forts, and the little art evinced in their construction ; and this opinion is strengthened by the fact, that some Indian tribes now inhabiting the borders of the Missouri live in villages, cultivate the 172 JOURNAL OF A TOUR soil, and make earthen vessels of the same description as those found here. It would be as useless as tedious to describe ever\' township in the district ; it is sufficient to say, that they are nearly equal in point of soil and other qualities, and ffenerallv but verv little settled. Thev all contain the best of soil, awaiting but the hand of industry to bring it into use. The settlements on Talbot Road, in Howard, and Oxford, are very flourishing, although not begun more than twelve years ago, and present a striking proof of what industry can efiect even under the greatest difficulties. It was first undertaken by persons, many of whom were poor, who had not only their lands to clear and roads to make, but also at a time when pro- visions were very dear, and had to be fetched on their backs twenty or thirty miles through the woods , yet, under such discouraging circumstances, they have suc- ceeded in forming one of the best settlements in the district, from which was exported during the last year about ten thousand bushels of wheat. The banks of the river Thames were first settled about fort\" years ago, but its improvement has not been proportionate to the time of its first settlement. Never- theless, it has a very fine appearance, as many of the farms are extensive, and, being situated on both banks of the river, a wide prospect opens, through which mav be seen the meanderings of the stream, skirted bv houses, clumps of trees, and the rich fields covered w'ith the luxuriant productions reflected in the smooth waters of the river, giving to the whole a beautiful rural aspect. The land is unusually fertile, and improved farms mav be purchased at very moderate prices, which, from their eligible situation, afford an easy mode of convevance for their productions by water; and, being also on the THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 173 great post road, are particularly well suited to emi- grants possessing a small capital, who could at the same time acquire a profitable and an agreeable residence for themselves. The climate throughout the district is mild, but par- ticularly so in all parts not immediately bordering on Lake Huron. The winter generally sets in about the middle of December, and ends towards the close of February ; but there is seldom any severe frost or much snow till the middle of January. Heavy falls of snow are very rare, and some years there is little or none, and it seldom exceeds eighteen inches in depth, or re- mains on the ground longer than a fortnight at a time. This, however, is no advantage, but sometimes a great inconvenience, as the roads in winter are often very bad ; but this evil is cheerfully supported from the con- sideration of the advantage of short winters, succeeded by a long season of fine weather, bringing with it so many blessings denied to the more northern parts of the province. This district has been called the garden of Upper Canada, an epithet probably bestowed at a time when it was almost the only settled part of the province, the rest being comparatively a wilderness, which must have enhanced its beauty, and given it a delightful appearance in the eyes of the traveller, after a long, fatiguing, and dangerous journey through a thinly-inhabited country, in most places covered with impenetrable forests. But, although it may no longer be viewed with the same delight, the causes having ceased which gave it that pre-eminence, still it may deserve the former appellation, if we consider the fertility of the soil, and the richness and abundance of its productions, brought to maturity by its genial climate. Population alone is wanting to Q 174 JOURNAL OF A TOUR cultivate the soil, which at present lies idle, in order to make it indeed a rich garden overflowing with abun- dance of productions. It is therefore surprising that so few persons avail themselves of the advantages offered by Providence in such profusion, and that emi- grants do not seek a part of the country where their industry would be so richly repaid, as in a short time they might not only acquire subsistence and comfort but even wealth. Let us therefore hope that, as the modes of travelling and transportation, which are daily becoming more convenient and less expensive, and con- sequently diminishing those difficulties which at one time were matters of serious consideration, emigrants will now be encouraged to seek for a settlement in the western district, which offers such advantages to per- sons following agricultural pursuits. That there is no exaggeration in the foregoing statement may be easily verified, by going through the country, and seeing the condition of the people, with the many blessings they enjoy through their industry. All those who have ex- erted themselves (and there are idle persons here as well as elsewhere who do not thrive) have become in- dependent, and there is no better proof of this assertion than may be found in the settlements of Oxford, Howard, Raleigh, and Tilbury, on Talbot Road, which, but ten or twelve years ago, were not in existence, and are now the cheerful and enlivening resort of able farmers, many of whom have from fifty to one hundred acres of cleared land, excellent orchards, and many good substantial dwellings, besides barns filled with the produce of their labours. Well may those people bless the kind hand of Providence, which has guided their steps from povertv to their present happy estate, with the prospect, not only of bettering their own condition, but that of their THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 175 families, by enabling them to acquire a livelihood with- out those difficulties and labour to which they them- selves have been subject. As the greatest hardships beginners have to contend with in a new country are the want of roads, and assistance from neighbours, these difficulties are mostly overcome ; roads are opened in all directions, many of which are good, and most of them very passable. The population, although small, is sufficiently extended to aid any new comers, and the necessaries of life can be readily obtained at moderate prices. Settlers, therefore, at present have advantages which were denied to those who first opened the road, and now, with industry, they could clear as much land the first or second year as would yield a sufficient living. Formerly, the remoteness of this district was a serious obstacle to its settlement, as it was not only tedious and difficult, but also very expensive to reach it. These impediments, however, are now very much removed, as there are seven steam boats, constantly plying between Buffalo and Detroit during the navigable season, which leave and take passengers as they pass by Amherstburg, and upwards of one hundred sailing vessels of from thirty to one hundred and fifty tons burden, by which persons and property are conveyed at very moderate charges. To emigrants coming by way of the St. Lawrence, the Welland Canal, which unites Lakes Ontario and Erie, offers an easy, expeditious, and cheap mode of conveying baggage and provisions, there being daily packets established from lake to lake. This great undertaking has removed the greatest difficulty the upper districts had to contend with, as produce can now be sent to market at remunerating prices, which before was not the case ; and although not yet completed, it has already given an impulse to commerce that must 176 JOURNAL OF A TOUR fro on increasing to an extent which cannot now be easily foreseen by the most sanguine imagination, as unquestionably the peninsula between Lake Huron and Lake Erie is by far the most fertile and most advan- tageously situated portion of Upper Canada, the extent of which is sufficient to maintain many millions of human beings. The territories on the opposite shore of Lake Erie, belonging to the United States, are fast filling up with emigrants from other states and from Europe ; hundreds are daily passing from Buffalo to Detroit since the opening of the navigation ; and it is computed that, by the first of July, three thousand had arrived at the latter place to settle in the Michigan territory. Last year, about ten thousand or twelve thousand did the same, so that in a few years more, the immense forests, which now cover the land, will disappear, and make room for cultivated fields, and the busy hum of human and civilized beings. If such extensive emigration move to countries adjacent, which, in reality, offer fewer ad- vantages than may be found in the western district — what is the reason that it should be neglected ? surely nothing but ignorance of its capabilities can be the rea- son ; for if richness of soil, mildness of climate, equit- able laws and taxes (so light that they are barely felt,) are inducements to reside in any countrv, certainly none offers greater reasons for settlement than this, which, in truth, may be said to possess peace and plenty — and happiness as much as man can enjoy. Lands are easily acquired, as well from individuals as the Canada Company, who have large blocks and detached tracts of the best land in the district, which they offer for sale at very moderate prices and at five years’ credit. They have agents at Buffalo, Amherst- burg. Sandwich, and on the river St. Clair, from THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 177 whom every information may be obtained to facilitate the location of settlers. Government has also large tracts of land for sale, but there is more difficulty in obtaining them, as their agent resides at York, where it is necessary to make all applications, which are not always attended to, as he has more to do than should be attached to one individual. The colonial government seems to have adopted from the beginning the very worst system of disposing of the crown lands, by which means the public have been debarred from that accom- modation they had a right to expect ; but it is to be hoped that, before long, some better method will be introduced, as we might not be ashamed to adopt that of our neighbours, who have agents in every district, with power to sell the lands at prices within the means of all applicants. Emigration should therefore be en- couraged, and this peninsula would partake of the advantages which have been more exclusively the por- tion of the other parts of the province. THE LONDON DISTRICT. The desire to diffuse more extensively a correct know- ledge of the advantageous situation and fertility of the soil in the London District, is the express reason for giving a brief sketch of the townships of London and Westminster. The latter was settled in 1811, under the superintendence of Mr. Watson, and is situated on the south side of the Thames, which separates it from London. The first concession, through which the great western road passes, is thickly settled. The inhabitants on this street are chiefly composed of American emi- grants and Canadians, there being only three or foux' q3 178 JOURNAL OP A TOUn European families upon it. Many of the farms are extensive and tolerably well cultivated, having good framed barns, fine promising young orchards, and com- fortable dwellings. The people are industrious and peaceable, and in the full enjoyment of Agur's wish, the happiest and most enviable condition on earth. The second concession is settled principally by Scotch, who fully sustain the character of their countrymen. Industrious, frugal, and peaceable, they see themselves and their families not only relieved from the apprehen- sions of poverty, but in the actual enjoyment of true independence. The farms are their own ; the fruits of their toil will descend to their children ; and, if it be not their own fault, they may, as they have the means to do it, educate them in such a manner as will fit them for that independence to which they are destined. The north street, which intersects the first concession at nearly a right angle, and which leads to St. Thomas, is also thickly settled on each side, and at present bids fair to become the finest street in the township. The township is twelve miles square, and contains, exclusive of roads, one hundred and two thousand, four hundred acres of land, only thirty thousand of which are settled. Estimating that the assessment returns of cultivated land in every township are at least one-fourth less than they should be, Westminster has in it nearly seven thousand acres of cultivated land, being almost fifty acres to every farm of two hundred. This township contains one hundred and seventy four horses, two hun- dred and seventy-three oxen, five hundred and fortv-four cows, and two hundred and thirty-five head of young cattle. The assessed value of the property is eighteen thousand seven hundred and six pounds, the true value perhaps about forty thousand pounds. The taxes for THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 179 the present year amount to one hundred and sixteen pounds, being five shillings and ninepence halfpenny for every hundred pounds of real and personal property owned in the township by the resident freeholders ; and this is the entire taxes, with the exception of a few days of statute labour, which a farmer worth one hun- dred pounds is called upon to pay in this free and happy land. The township of London was first opened for settle- ment in the autumn of 1818. It is beautifully situated, affording variety of soil, and watered in a manner supe- rior, perhaps, both as regards beauty and convenience, to any township in the province. The river Medway, commonly called the north branch of the Thames, after traversing a vast tract of the vacant lands of the Crown and Canada Company, enters London on the eastern line, not far from the centre of the township, and, after passing through six or seven concessions, disembogues itself at the town of London, where it unites with the east branch. The east branch enters London at the south eastern angle of the township, and separates Westminster from London, until it meets the north branch at the town plat, where, both uniting, form the line until their waters pass into Delaware and Lobo. The river Medway, running about twelve miles through the township in a serpentine manner, has an average width of about one hundred and fifty feet. The east branch is somewhat narrower, and the main river a little broader. On the north branch there are already four bridges erected, at an expense to the township of three thousand dollars. Another, fully equal to the Delaware bridge, and on a plan somewhat similar, is now about to be erected on the same branch, contiguous to the town. On the east branch, between London and 180 JOURNAL OP A TOUR Westminster, there are also three bridges built by volun- tary contributions from the people of both townships ; and, on the main river, between the town plat and the extremity of the township, there are two bridges, erected also by private subscription. The soil of London, as formerly observed, is of various kinds. On the north branch of the Thames, there are in many places large tracts of open flats with a real alluvial soil. In the north-west and north-east parts of the township, the land is of a very superior quality. The surface is deeply covered with fine vegetable mould, beneath which is a stratum of light coloured clay. In most other parts of the township, the substratum is a rich sandy loam, covered with a fine black vegetable mould. The timber is uniformly maple, beech, ash, oak, cherry, white walnut, and hickory. In several parts of the township, there are extensive tracts of open plains, extending in some places three or four miles. These plains are beautifully diversified, having handsome pines of a conical form tastefully scattered all over them, which, with occasionally an oak and a poplar, give them all the picturesque and pleasing appearance of an English park. The township is twelve miles square, and con- tains, exclusive of the gare, one hundred and two thou- sand, four hundred acres of land, two-sevenths of which are reserved for the crown and clergy. Of the remain- der, sixty-six thousand acres are occupied ; and, esti- mating the assessment returns defective here as well as at Westminster, there are about nine thousand acres of cultivated land in the township, or about twenty-eight acres to every lot of two hundred. In this township, the horses number two hundred ; the oxen, five hundred and ninety-six ; cows, one thousand and sixty-eight ; and young cattle, five hundred and seventy-two. The THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 181 assessed value of the property is thirty thousand six hundred and nine pounds. The taxes amount to one hundred and eighty-nine pounds ; and, estimating the real value of the property in London upon the same principles as those on which is made the calculation on Westminster, it will amount to about eighty thousand pounds. The whole tax upon this property being one hundred and eighty-nine pounds, the sum paid for every hundred pounds is only four shillings and eight pence three farthings, which is more than a shilling less for every hundred pounds of real property than in West- minster. The difference, at first sight, appears rather singular, but it is to be accounted for from the fact, that London, in proportion to the land cultivated, has a much greater proportion of horses, oxen, and other cattle, and also a greater proportion of uncultivated land, items whose real and assessed value differ very materially. The township contains three thousand souls, more than three-fourths of whom are Europeans ; and, when this fact is taken into consideration, that it is one of the youngest townships in the district, it will be seen that it pays by far the largest amount of taxes. As the land is excellent, it may be applied to the various pur- poses of agriculture, and can fairly compete with any township in the province, while the inhabitants are particularly distinguished for peaceableness and indus- try. The courts of justice have been established here for upwards of four years, during which time, not a single bill of indictment, with one solitary exception, was ever preferred against an inhabitant of the town- ship, and that one was for an assault. Although the jail is too often crowded, it has not yet afforded a night’s lodging to a London inhabitant. 182 JOURNAL OF A TOUR The town of London is situated on an elevated spot, immediately on the bank of the river Thames, where its branches unite. Only five years ago, its present site was a cheerless wilderness, without a human habi- tation ; but it now numbers upwards of seventy framed houses, approaching fast towards completion, some of which are of a very superior order. The court house, which is allowed by travellers to be the finest building in the province, stands within about twenty yards of the brink of the hill, which may be said to be the bank of the river. It is one hundred feet long, fifty feet broad, and fifty feet high. Tlie building, although not strictly Gothic, is in that style, and, with its octagon towers, has much the appearance of the ancient castles so much admired in Great Britain and Ireland. The court room is finished in a superior manner. The win- dows, which are six in number, and truly Gothic, are surmounted by elliptical arches, supported by pillars nearly twenty feet high. Arches are also sprung from four of these pillars, which, passing across the angles of the room, make the ceiling an octagon, and, orna- mented as it is, adds much to the beauty of the room. The spectator’s gallery, which is also supported by similar pillars, is in front of the bench. The prisoners are admitted into their box from the jail beneath by means of a trap door ; and the sheriff’s boxes, witness’ boxes, and jury boxes, are so arranged as to afford every facility to the prompt dispatch of business. The apartments for the civil debtors are in the upper part of the house, and finished in a neat, convenient, and comfortable manner. There has, however, been one great error committed in the erection of this building, inasmuch as it fronts the river instead of the town, a circumstance which is the more to be regretted, as it THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 183 is situated in the most conspicuous place possible, and exposes to the view of every person who enters the town the windows of the criminals’ cells, a sight at all times the least pleasing to the stranger or the citizen. With this single defect, it does great credit to the builder, Mr. Ewart of York ; — and, what does him still greater honour, he offered to sacrifice nearly one hun- dred pounds in order to induce the commissioners to change the front. On the top of the court house there is a platform of fifty feet long, and about twenty broad, from which the views of the surrounding country are very imposing. The river beneath, or rather the three rivers, passing through a rich flat, irregularly strewed with beautiful trees, whose boughs extend nearly to the ground, have a most charming appearance ; and, taken in connexion with the occasional breaks perceptible in the woods, now and then exhibiting to view the labours of the back settler, seldom fail to produce in the mind the most joyous reflections. From this spot one can over- look a tract of country, which, twelve years ago, afford- ed a scanty subsistence to a few wretched savages, and reflect, that it is now yielding all the necessaries, and many of the luxuries of life, to upwards of three thou- sand of the sons and daughters of civilization, who for the most part have abandoned the homes of their fore- fathers, to seek in a foreign land, that wealth and inde- pendence which their respective countries denied them. THE HURON TERRITORY. In regard to the Canada Company’s lands, along the banks of Lake Huron, I learn that there are above one 184 JOURNAL OP A TOUR hundred houses in Goderich. The land is considered as rich and beautiful as any in British America ; and the company have erected a grist-mill for the accom- modation of settlers ; and, as this settlement possesses the advantage of the Lake navigation, it may reason- ably be expected, in a short time, to become a place of considerable importance. It is forty-six miles distant from London ; the road is already cut out nearly the whole way, and, at farthest, will be finished in the fall, when it will present a beautiful avenue, free of stumps, and sown with grass seeds. Bridges are being erected wherever necessary ; and, taken in connexion with the proof line of the London road, twelve miles long, upon which there has now been expended one hundred pounds, a parliamentary grant, it will almost immediately be- come one of the best roads in the province for its ex- tent. On each side of the company’s road, from London to Goderich, a tier of lots is surveyed, and now offered for sale. The Canada Company is bound to expend a certain sum of money annually on the roads which pass through their lands, so that persons purchasing from them, may always be sure of possessing at once, the rare advan- tages of good roads in a new countr\^ The Wilmot road, commencing at Smith’s creek, and running a distance of fifty-seven miles to Goderich, is intersected by the Huron road, within thirteen miles of Goderich, where there is a good tavern. A tier of lots is also laid out on that road, which will be sold bv the company on liberal terms. Some of the lands be- longing to this company are offered for sale at seven shillings and sixpence per acre, and other lots at ten shillings per acre, with five years credit, to pay it by THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 185 instalments. But land belonging to the Canada Com- pany, as well as lots belonging to individuals, vary in price according to the local advantages which a lot may possess. A farm of two hundred acres, with about fifty of cleared land, an orchard, a log house, and some other indifferent buildings, in various places of Upper Cana- da, can be purchased for from one hundred and twenty to two hundred pounds, according to the quality of its soil, or the nature of its situation. But a farm of two hundred acres of good land, in an advantageous situa- tion, with about one hundred and fifty acres cleared land, an elegant frame house, a capacious frame barn, stables, sheds, and other necessary buildings, all in ex- cellent order, as also an orchard and garden, it may be supposed, would cost a swinging sum, very likely above a thousand pounds. The property tax, as has been already observed, is generally reckoned to be about one penny per pound ; but, as property is always estimated below its real va- lue, the tax is frequently but about one halfpenny per pound. The wild land tax is likewise very light, being but one farthing per acre, which only amounts to twen- ty-five pence per hundred acres. On property which does not combine great variety, the tax is generally as follows ; for a stone house, five shillings ; a frame house, three shillings ; a log house, one shilling and sixpence ; a horse, sevenpence half- penny ; a cow, fivepence, &c. But, when a property consists of various subjects, it is much more easily com- prehended, to say, that the tax is never more than one penny per pound, and that it seldom exceeds five shil- lings per hundred pounds of real property, which is by no means a matter of serious consideration. R 186 JOURNAL OP A TOUR ITINERARY AT COBOURG. The people in Upper Canada rise very early in the morning. Tradesman and labourers all go to work at sun-rise during the summer season, which is for some weeks about half-past four o’clock, and they also work till sun- set, at half-past seven. At farm houses, they breakfast about six, dine at twelve, and sup about half an hour after sun-set, at the time when the labourers arrive from the fields, which, at midsummer, is eight o’clock. However, in October, the supper hour is about six o’clock ; and, at a great many of the farm houses, the supper is when the labourers come in from work, which, for a while in winter, is about five o’clock, but, at this season, the breakfast hour is at seven, and immediately after, they go out to work. It is custom- ary at farm houses, to have a tea breakfast and a tea supper, and this is pretty much the fashion over all North America, both in town and country. But, at thousands of the farm houses, there is no sugar allowed to tea, while a great many use green tea alone, and, as the water is hard, it does not suit this purpose ; so that tea is by no means so good in Canada as one might readily suppose ; and I am informed by travellers that the water is generally hard over North America. During my stay in the country, I generally went out to a walk immediately after supper, as the atmosphere is so mild and pleasing in the summer evenings in this country, and the circumjacent woods, in the months of June and July, are so beautifully bespangled with fire- flies, which enliven the scene with an agreeable effect. However, it is the case here as well as in other places, that there is a due proportion of unpleasant things, to THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 187 balance against the more grateful. The first evening after going to reside at the farm house, I went out past a mill-pond, on passing which, an unusual noise attracted my attention, I stopt to inquire what it was, and my companion soon informed me that it was frogs and toads. These reptiles lodge about marshes, and, in the evenings, the whole summer over, the frogs croak nearly as loud as a crow, and the toads screech with a shrill voice resembling a magpie. These reptiles are considerably different from those of the species found in Scotland, which are dull and clumsy, while those in America are lank and lean, and nearly as swift as mice. Some of the birds are pretty in their plumage, but their notes are generally disagreeable. The scarlet and white woodpecker is a very pretty bird, and a little larger than a Scotch mavis ; but, as they are not good sing- ing birds, and are rather gluttonous, they are not ad- apted for the cage. The most enlivening bird which I took notice of was the whoop-hoy, which cries in the woods in the fine summer evenings. It derives its name from the monotony of the three words which its notes seem to express, and which it repeats with un- ceasing ardour through the most of the night, constant- ly crying whoop-poy-wel, whoop-poy-wel — which, in the cool sequestered vales of America, in a fine summer- evening, where the tall and towering forests give to the scene a heavy appearance, has a singularly impressive and pleasing effect. The fire-flies are very pretty in the evenings. They are about the size of a barleycorn ; the light which they emit resembles a small blue flame, very clear, not an uninterrupted flame like a candle, but a kind of re- volving light, about two seconds light and four dark. By all appearance, the light emitted by these flies has 188 JOURNAL OF A TOUR no tendency to kindle natural fire, otherwise the forests in summer would soon be all on flames. The fire-flies are of an auburn colour, tinged with green, and very harmless, for I have taken half a dozen of them in my hand at once to see their concomitant flames, without feeling the least inconvenience, but their light is only discernible when daylight begins to decline. The weather here is generally much more agreeable in the evenings, out of doors, than during the day, when, for three months in summer, it is sometimes so oppressively hot, that it is unpleasant to walk even for recreation. Besides, at farm houses near the woods, (and they are mostly all so situated), one going out in daylight is frequently assailed by musquitoes. But these insects are not to be seen in towns or villages, as they never go near any place where there is smoke ; and, at some of the farm houses, the people kindle a small fire in front of the house to raise smoke, purposely to keep off these insects, as they come in at the open doors and windows, particularly the latter, which are frequently open day and night to admit the free air. FEMALE INDUSTRY. It has often been reported in Britain that the females in America are lazy and actionless, and, indeed, I have seen some of them very much so ; but, be it observed, these were from Britain or Ireland. The females who have been brought up in this country, are the most ac- tive, cleanly, and industrious, that ever I have seen. They generally rise by four or five in the morning, and labour hard at least till ten at night. There is a con- THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 189 siderable number of carding and fulling mills in the country, so the women are all taught to spin wool and weave cloth for the family. The kind worn by the men is a grey mixture, called Canadian grey. Each farm house generally contains a weaving loom, and, in the fall, the mistress or daughter weaves the cloth, which, when ready, they put to the fulling-mill to be scoured and dressed. This cloth sells at one dollar per yard, and servants and others who have not an establishment of their own, generally purchase as much from a neigh- bouring farmer as will make an every day suit for win- ter wear. The most of this cloth is also made into clothes by the women, who make jackets, vests, and pantaloons, for working in ; but it is only used for these purposes, as servants and all classes dress in superfine cloth on Sabbath. They also spin and weave linsey- woolsey for their own use, blankets for the family, and beautiful bedcovers flowered and chequered. There is reason to believe that servant girls have been induced to leave Britain and Ireland, and particularly the latter, in expectation of getting good places and high wages. The people here say that it is the very worst of female servants that have as yet come to America, and, when they cannot get places at home, they think the people here will be glad of them ; but, to their woeful disappointment, they soon see that they were greatly mistaken. The people also say, that good female servants readily find good places at home, and therefore are not so ready going abroad. This I have reason to believe is true, but it is this latter kind that have by far the best chance of doing good here ; for there are hundreds of mistresses in this country, who could well afford to keep a servant, but, because they R 3 190 JOURNAL OF A TOUR cannot get one who is good, active, and obedient, they rather choose to want. Travellers who have visited several states of the Union, generally agree, that females brought up there, of European origin, are similar to those in Canada for activity and industry ; so that girls who are somewhat actionless, and withal a little lazy-inclined, will learn that America is not a fit place for them. As I am of opinion that it will be amusing to some, I shall here make a few remarks on mv landladv, and there are many in this country answerable to the same description. She is a British Canadian ; and, in order to assist the idea, fancy her one of the stout robust working wives of Scotland,, just turned forty. In the morning she would start by light, dress in a petticoat of her own manufacture, a cotton bed-gown, and a broad-brimmed straw hat. Now, my good lady, with her good leave, would never wish to have the tobacco pipe out of her teeth. There she would slave on the whole day till ten or twelve at night, milking cows, making butter, washing, baking, dressing clothes, or cleaning the house, and an excellent hand at work she is. During my stay, an Irish girl was got for the kitchen, to let the mistress do some work for the family. However, the girl thought herself hard wrought to cover the table and wash the dishes ; but, at last, mv lady's patience could not endure the lazy hussy anv longer ; so one morning before I got out of bed the girl was paid off. After this, the work was turned again on herself and daughter, a girl of twelve years ; and, when visitors would call, as soon as they drove up to the gate before the green, within two rods of the door. Mademoiselle would now hear the waggon, and run to the window to see who approached ; then she THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 191 would bawl out, My gad, Betsy, here is Mr. or Mrs. ; go and bid them come in, till I run and throw on a frock.’’ Now, my lady was active at dressing as well as at other things ; so in six minutes she would appear in a handsome silk, muslin, or satin dress, to go and receive her visitors. On these occa- sions, when I happened to be out of my room, I would stare to see such a romp us dress like a lady of quality ; but no one who knows any thing about the manner of a polite lady would have taken this for one. She put on airs, it is true, but they were vulgar airs, such as no real lady would use ; and, in short, she was the most rude, rancorous, random hussy that ever I saw attempt to act the lady in my life. EXCURSIONS NEAR COBOURG. One day I procured a guide to take me half a dozen of miles into the forest, as I wanted to see how the settlements looked there. The road was tolerably good, but the dwellings were few and far between, so much so, that we were frequently without the sight of a hu- man habitation. Farms along the lake shore, and for two or three miles back, have fifty or one hundred acres of cleared land ; but, six or eight miles back, some of the farmers have not ten acres cleared, and there they are surrounded by the impervious forest, perhaps a mile or two from a human habitation, and sometimes more. The stately forest here contains some beautiful wood, such as oak, ash, elm, beech, walnut, maple, hickory, a species of cedar, and various other kinds ; while the towering pines are frequently above a hundred feet high. Several trees of this latter kind 192 JOURNAL OF A TOUR were pointed out which contained six twelve feet logs without a branch, and some thirty or forty feet of branches above. There were also many of the wooden troughs lying beside the maple trees, which had been used in the spring to catch the juice for making sugar. This operation is performed by making an incision in the tree about eighteen inches from the ground, and a chip of wood is fixed into the orifice to make the liquid drop into the wooden trough. Those who are waiting upon them go round every morning and empty the troughs into pails, then it is carried home, and, when a sufficient quantity is collected, they boil it to a certain consistency, then pour it into pans to cool, when it becomes a kind of deep brown lump sugar. The Indians generally use maple sugar, but few others. It is by no means fit for tea, as it has much of a turpentine flavour ; but it is sometimes used by the country people in fruit pies and sweetmeats. Among the various farms which I noticed in this district, I observed, that fields situated in vales and lawns generally presented the appearance of excellent crops, but hilly land was less productive. When newlv cleared, it may produce two or three good crops, but afterwards it falls ofl' very much. The thin soil would no doubt be much improved, if the farmers would put dung upon it, but they are all inclined to bestow their labour on making clearances, which they are sure will yield some good crops. However, it is to be expected that the time will come when the farmers in this countrv will be glad to use dung as well as the farmers in Britain. One day after dinner, as I had gone out a little distance with an acquaintance, a neighbour in the place drove up in a neat one-horse waggon. He pre- sently asked me to take a seat beside him, as he was THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 193 going to Port Hope, and returning in the evening. I accepted with pleasure, and mounted the waggon imme- diately. The village of Port Hope is situated on the side of the lake, seven miles above Cobourg. The road all along is well settled, and the farms apparently good, with a considerable portion of cleared land, and each farm house is generally a fine two-story frame building. All the cleared land is enclosed with rough zigzag wooden fences — the verdant fields of grass are well stocked with horses, cattle, and sheep — the fields are luxuriant with wheat, rye, barley, oats, and potatoes — and, at each farm house, is an orchard and garden, also about twenty hogs and as many geese ; — so that the whole combined gives to the farms here a very rural appearance. At four in the afternoon we arrived at Allan's tavern. Port Hope. This village is pleasantly situated betwixt two mountains, at a short distance from the lake. There is a beautiful small river running through the middle of the village, the bottom of which appears like tables of rock ; and the limpid waters of this delightful stream sweep over their bed with great velocity. The communication betwixt the two sides of the river is by a handsome wooden bridge, on a line with the main street. After we alighted, I went to the brow of the west mountain, to get a view of the village on that side, as I had seen it on the other as we ap- proached. The main street runs east and west, nearly parallel to the lake, and intersected by the smaller streets at right angles, while on the brow of either mountain every house in the village can be seen. The English church stands on the east mountain, and over- looks the village towards the west. The edifice is a handsome frame building, surmounted with a neat belfry. The vestibule is on the west, and the walls 194 JOURNAL OP A TOUR resemble mountain snow. Opposite to this, on the brow of the west mountain, there is a neat frame build- ing in progressive erection, and nearly completed. This is for a Catholic church ; and it overlooks the village towards the east, where it is to be ornamented with a handsome tower. This settlement was commenced only fifteen years ago, and the village already contains up- wards of one hundred and twenty dwellings, which have principally risen within these last five years. The houses are chiefly frame buildings ; and, from the num- ber erecting and unfinished, the village appears to be rapidly increasing. Both mountains are adorned with beautiful white dwellings strewed around their sloping sides, each with some poplar or other trees in front, to serve the double purpose of shade and ornament — the deep green forest bounds the north, within half a mile of the village — the expanded lake is seen nearly equi- distant on the south, and the smiling fields glowing in all the verdure of summer — while the mountain on each side of the village gives to the whole an agreeable relief ; so that the view of Port Hope is varied, pleasing, and picturesque. We started from Allan’s tavern about seven, and, as it became dark, the lightning began to flash along the lake, as it frequently does in the summer evenings, while the gathering clouds declared a fall of rain, which quickly came, after we alighted from the waggon. In a few days after this, my landlady began to usurp rather an undue authority in the government of domestic aflfairs, which seemed to infringe on the privileges of the landlord. But he was a man of too independent a spirit to bear intrusion with either silence or resignation, and gave her to understand that he would be lord and master of his own house. The conversation which THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 195 took place on this occasion was not exactly what one would choose to hear betwixt two such relatives ; and, for all that my lady could say to justify her conduct, yet she was rewarded by some unpleasant aspersions, which apparently she did not relish well ; and, indeed, he squeezed too much lemon into the conversation for its being palatable ; but, as she dearly bought it, I made her very welcome to it. After this my lady daily wore a cloud of displeasure on her brow, and sometimes would not vouchsafe to answer, when things were called for which had been neglected. I now began to get wearied of the country, especially when it rained, as I was confined in my room without company, and the weather was seldom dry more than three or four days during my stay here. However, being acquainted with some Scotch families in the village, I was easily pre- vailed upon to take lodging there ; and, on the 12th July, I removed to Carpenter's hotel in Cobourg, where I found a comfortable residence and agreeable company. DESCRIPTION OF COBOURG.^ This village is situated on the north side of Lake Ontario, in the county of Hamilton, and district of Newcastle, about one hundred miles above Kingston, and eighty below York. The main street is nearly parallel to the lake, and about one-fourth of a mile distant. Two streets are laid out which intersect the main street at right angles, the one at the old wharf, and the other at the new. The principal thoroughfare to the back settlements is by the road on which this latter street is laid out. It commences at the new wharf, and extends for several miles in a straight line 196 JOURNAL OF A TOUR towards the interior of the country. The village con- tains upwards of one hundred and fifty dwellings, and about one thousand inhabitants. The houses are chiefly of framed work, and a considerable number of them are handsome two-story buildings ; but there is a great want of uniformity, which gives the village rather an ungrateful appearance. There is an English church at the east end of the village. This edifice is a fine frame building, surmounted with a handsome belfry, which is soon to be furnished with an excellent bell ; the walls are snow white, and the whole of this neat fabric has a light and graceful appearance. The interior is also handsomely fitted up. Two passes extend from end to end ; and some of the pews are handsomely carpeted, cushioned, and lined with crimson or sky moreen. The pulpit and altar window are elegantly hung with rich crimson silk drapery, edged with yellow silk fringe, and the altar table covered wdth the same. The people have spared no cost to finish the church in a superior style ; however, a great many of them prefer their amusement on Sabbath, to the duty of attending at divine service ; so that, in summer, when the season invites to range in the forests, it is no unusual thing to see half a dozen of pews in a row without a solitar}* individual ; and I have seen at a time only three indi- viduals in the whole gallery. Country people who come to church in gigs or waggons, drive up to the rail in front of the vestibule ; when they dismount, the bridle reins are fixed on the rail, and the horses remain heie during the time of divine service ; and, when the congregation dismisses, each person wdio has a gig or waggon takes the reins in his hand, mounts the seat, and drives ofi*. The only other place of public worship here is a small THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 197 building on the north side of the village, which is occu- pied as a meeting-house by the Methodist congregation ; but neither the exterior nor interior has any thing to invite the attention of a stranger, except the purpose to which it is appropriated — that of being the house of prayer. The court-house and jail are both under one roof. This edifice is a handsome stone building, quite new, and not entirely finished. It is the court-house of the county, and is situated in the village of Amherst, on the road to York, about two miles west from Cobours* Amherst contains about twenty houses, but Cobourg and it are both rapidly increasing, and it is expected that, in a few years, these villages will unite and form one continued street. The settlement of Cobourg is in a thriving condition. The township contains many wealthy inhabitants and good farms. The village is the seat of considerable mercantile trade, and already contains upwards of twenty stores, three taverns, one printing office, which issues a weekly paper, two schools, (and an academy will soon be established) a post office, three surgeons, one apothecary, a coach and waggon manufactory, and three furniture warehouses. There is a market place with excellent stalls erected some time ago, but no market has yet been established. The line of stage coaches between Kingston and York passes through this village daily, and always stops at one of the taverns with or for passengers. There are two brick works in the vici- nity, which supply the people wuth material for building chimneys ; and, within a few miles of the village, there are grist-mills, saw-mills, barley-mills, carding-mills, fulling-mills, and distilleries, from which latter tolerably s 198 JOURNAL OF A TOUR good whisky can be purchased, in large quantities, at one shilling and threepence per gallon. ITINERARY AT COBOURG VILLAGE. In the course of a few days after I commenced board- ing at Cobourg, new potatoes, cucumbers, and cherries, were presented at table every day. Breakfast was at half-past seven, dinner at one, and supper at seven in the evening. Breakfast consisted of tea, coffee, beef- steaks, cold meat, potatoes, bread, butter, and eggs. At dinner, there was sometimes soup for a change, always a roast of either beef or mutton, sometimes fowls, always cold meat, and frequently ham besides. Some excellent vegetables usually gave us their pre- sence, such as cabbage, cucumbers, potatoes, and peas, with either pies, tarts, or puddings, to finish off with. There were spirits and wine at dinner every day, and each guest could help himself according to his desire. Supper consisted of tea, various kinds of cold meat, fruit pies, or apple sauce, butter, generally four kinds of bread, and frequently currants or cherries in sweet sauce. This is considered the head inn, but the other two are allowed to be pretty much the same. The regular charge for board and lodging is twelve shillings and sixpence per week ; but boarding of this descrip- tion at Quebec or Montreal is generally double this sum, viz. five dollars ; so that genteel tradesmen might calculate on a considerable saving here. Boarding with private families and at farm houses seldom exceeds two dollars per week, and sometimes it can be had for seven shillings and sixpence. Now, at these private houses boarding may be passable, but there is by no means THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA, 199 such variety as at the taverns, especially on the score of preserves and flummery, such as pickles, sauces, and deserts, which are only to be had in season and variety at the hotels and taverns. Besides, at these latter a glass of ale or cider can be had by any one who prefers that to spirits or wine, but, at private houses, no choice of that kind can be had, in general. In the fall, when cider is made, a glass at dinner is quite common at farm houses for some weeks, but by no means all the year round. The usual allowance there, besides the crystal well, is a glass of whisky at breakfast, and another at dinner. In regard to Mr, Carpenter’s as a boarding-house, I have found it very agreeable. To particularize every in- dividual about the establishment would be too tedious : suffice it to say, that they are all as they ought to be, polite, civil, and attentive to their business, and, in a special manner, Mr. Sprig, who is bar- keeper and stewart. In short, the house is such as one would willingly re- commend his friend to, whom he wished to be comfort- able and carefully attended. The lodgers, of course, are frequently changing. Those who have been regular boarders during my stay are a few young gentlemen in the village, who are indeed excellent fellows. One of them, a native of the city of Albany in the state of New York, is the brightest American I have ever seen, and the prettiest young man in the village. For the sake of those who admire the concomitant graces which adorn the human figure, I shall attempt to describe this beau ideal, or un bel homme. The nose is a part of the face of which some take little notice in describing a beauty, although a prominent object, but the present is so fine as ought not to be overlooked. Well, then ; this nose is straight, slender, and handsome, of a propor- 200 JOURNAL OF A TOUR tionable length, but rather inclined to be short than long ; and, on the whole, it composes a very fine, though small portion of the face. The eyes are of a deep hazel, bordering on black, of a middling size, and truly bright and beautiful, even sufficient to lighten up a countenance otherwise heavy. The fresh cheeks are slightly tinged with crimson, while the fine thin lips, which form an elegant mouth, resemble the prettiest of cherries. Time as yet has not crested the juvenile chin with a beard, which is very beautiful, but difficult to describe : it is neither clumsy nor too small, but comes with an agreeable taper from the cheeks, and has an elegant finish to the termination point, which is slightly inclined to turn up, but not at all to spoil the countenance, for this has rather a pleasing efiect. The fine neck, which unites the head with the body, is not so white as moun- tain snow, but it is a very pretty colour, with an agreeable shade of peach blossom. As to the forehead, I have indeed seen a more manly commanding brow, but it is handsomely proportioned to the size of the face, and, for elegance of form and beauty of surface, I have never seen it surpassed. This beautiful counte- nance is of a fair complexion, finely shaded with flowing locks of beautiful deep auburn hair, which gives a pleasing relief. The figure of this young man is of a middle size, somewhat inclined to be tall and slender, and, upon the whole, he is the prettiest young man in Cobourg or its vicinity. During my stay in this district, the growing crops advanced very fast. On the 16th of June, when I ar- rived here, the ears of wheat and barley were only beginning to shoot forth, and, by the 16th of July, the wheat and barley harvest was commenced in various places of the township. The harvest usually begins THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 201 here about the 20th of July, and, in the former part of this month, is hay harvest ; so, if the weather permit, the farmers endeavour to have finished with the hay before they commence reaping the wheat and barley. Labourers in the country have much higher wages in harvest than in any other season of the year ; but la- bourers’ wages about towns and villages are more equal. At this village they generally have three shillings and sixpence per day ; but all kinds of tradesmen have much higher wages than that. Watch-making is a fine business in this country, as watch-makers are very scarce, and watches very high priced ; many of the villages are without a mechanic of this description, and the people have frequently thirty or forty miles to send a watch to be repaired. The regular charge for cleaning a watch in this province was formerly one dollar, and, in some places, is so yet; but, at this village, it has lately fallen to three quarters of a dollar, which is three shil- lings and ninepence. However, there is no regular watch-maker in this place nearer than Whiteby, which is thirty-five miles west, except a blacksmith in this village who does a little in the way. The bai'bers charge one shilling York for cropping hair ; and, be it remembered, there are no penny shaves here ; the cheapest I have seen in this country was threepence halfpenny. The people of Cobourg are of various nations, viz. United States Loyalists, Scotch, English, and Irish emigrants, with a few Canadians. For the size of the place, there are a considerable number of genteel people, and they are veiy fashionable both in their household and dress. It is pleasing to see the friendshijp which subsists here among those who have emigrated from the same nation. As they have abandoned the homes s 3 202 JOURNAL OF A TOUR of their forefathers, to seek that wealth and indepen- dence in a foreign nation which were denied them in their native land, so they seem to have a more tender regard for those of their own country than any others ; and settlers who have been some time here generally receive one from the land of their nativity with kindness and attention, as if one of their own tribe, although they have never seen him before. The principal trade at the port of Cobourg is carried on by the steam boats which ply betwixt Prescott and Niagara. However, it is expected, when the fine new wharf is completed, which will be in the fall, that the convenience afforded will greatly increase the commerce of the port. At present, there are some bay-boats and schooners from the various ports on the Canada side which stop in the bay occasionally, and one schooner is established as a regular trader betwixt and Rochester on the American side. This is at the extreme breadth of the lake, and the distance across is seventy miles. Rochester is about four miles up the Genesee river, which is opposite Cobourg. The schooner generally makes a trip once a week, going some distance up the Genesee, but not close to the town ; and the passage fare across the lake is two dollars. Rochester is much celebrated for its mills and manu- factories, and also for the beautiful Genesee falls in the immediate vicinity. The village is situated on the west bank of the river, which is fifty yards broad opposite the town, and crossed by a bridge about fiftv feet in height. From a complete wilderness, this thriving vil- lage has risen in the short period of twenty-one years. In 1825, the population of Rochester was four thousand, and it has since been considerably increased. The Erie canal approaches the river at the south end of the vil- THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 203 lage, and, after following its eastern bank for half a mile, enters the village by an aqueduct, which is constructed of red freestone, seven hundred and fifty feet long, with nine arches of fifty feet cord each. The canal receives a navigable feeder here, two miles in length, through which boats can pass into the Genesee river, and as- cend a distance of eighty or ninety miles. FROM COBOURG TO THE FALLS. Monday, 2oth July . — This day I prepared for leaving Cobourg, to visit the falls of Niagara. About three in the afternoon, a steam boat appeared, upward bound, and before six she arrived in the bay. The passengers and luggage which were put on shore here occupied about an hour, and, before seven, I embarked on board the Queenston steam boat, bound for the head of the lake, and Niagara river. The vessel presently started off, and, as the evening advanced, a strong breeze came off the land, which caused a swell in the lake. The steamer now began to roll a little, and, to my surprise, some of the passengers became sick. Till now, I was not aware that people would get sick by the motion of fresh water, without a great tempest ; but the gentlemen soon informed me that passengers on the lakes were as apt to get sick with a moderate swell, as they would be on the Atlantic. Tuesday, 26M. — This morning by nine o’clock we ar- rived at York, the capital of Upper Canada. All who chose were allowed to go on shore and view the city, so I went amongst the rest. York is situated on the north side of Lake Ontario, one hundred and eighty miles above Kingston, two 204 JOURNAL OF A TOUR hundred and fifty-two from Prescott, three hundred and ninety-two from Montreal, five hundred and seventy- two from Quebec, forty-eight below Hamilton at the head of the lake, and thirty-six from Niagara river op- posite. A regular communication is kept up betwixt this and Niagara, by the steam boat, Canada, which makes a trip every lawful day during the navigable sea- son. She starts from York at seven in the morning, from Niagara at two in the afternoon, and returns to York in the evening. — Cabin passage, two dollars, deck passage, one dollar. This city stands on a fine bank of the lake, which rises a few yards almost perpendicular, from the brink of which to the rear of the city, there is a moderate ac- clivity. The building of this town was commenced by the British in 1807, and has since been rapidly increas- ing. It already extends two miles along the lake, and the breadth, at the middle, is about half a mile. The houses are arranged in straight but narrow streets, which intersect each other at right angles. The King Street is the prettiest ; some of the public buildings front this street, and the principal stores of the city are to be found here ; it extends through the middle of the town, and runs nearly parallel with the lake. There are stone, brick, and frame buildings, some of which are very handsome, but there is a great want of uniformity. Some of the churches are handsome edifices, surmount- ed with elegant spires; and the court house and jail are both fine stone buildings. The city contains the residence of the governor of Upper Canada, which is a handsome edifice. A college has lately been established here, and occupies an elegant building ; but the most spacious edifice in the city is the new parliament house, which is approaching to completion. On the east of THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 205 the city, a long point of low land extends about three miles into the lake, with a fine lighthouse on its south- west extremity. The fort is situated at the west end of the town, and commands a view of the bay in front. There is a fine view of the town on approaching in port, and the numerous orchards and gardens interspers- ed through it, give it much the resemblance of a large suburb ; but, a few miles farther south, it has a more unique appearance, and seems to be what it truly is — a city on the skirt of a forest, on the margin of a lake. However, the bay in front is shallow, the stagnant va- pours of which are very unhealthy ; and, in summer, the thick fogs often tumble off the lake, but especially at this city, which is frequently enveloped in a cloud of mist. As the bay is shallow, and interspersed with shoals, the navigation to the port is very difficult ; and, when this circumstance is considered, together with its being an unhealthy spot, a more unfit situation for a capital could scarcely have been selected. But the land here is veiy fertile, especially a little to the interior, where there is a fine rich black loam ; and, no doubt, the fertility of the soil was one of the greatest induce- ments for ever commencing a town at this place. This is one of the four towns in Upper Canada which sends a member to parliament ; the other three are Kingston, Brockville, and Niagara. The city of Kingston was originally the seat of government for this province, but, a few years since, it was removed to this town, which has since become the capital. The present Administra- tor of Upper Canada is Sir John Colbourne, K. C. B. Lieutenant Governor, &c. &c. &c. The government of the province is conducted by a legislative council of twenty-two members, a house of assembly composed of fifty members, and an executive council of seven mem- 206 JOURNAL OF A TOUR bers. The courts of assize are held in the various dis- tricts throughout the province, under the control of a chief justice and two puisne judges. The commissioners at the Canada Company’s office here, are W. Allan and T. M. Jones. The office of the crown lands is under the superintend- ence of the Hon. P. Robinson, Surveyor General of woods and forests, and commissioner for the sale of crown lands, and Wm. Chewett, Esq. Draftsman, chief clerk and acting Surveyor General. A little past ten o’clock, we started from York, and arrived at Burlington Beach by four in the afternoon. This beach is a sand bar about a furlong broad, and crosses the lake at this place, which forms a capacious bason at the west extremity of Ontario, called Burling- ton Bay. The communication is by a canal cut through the bar, sufficiently large to let steam boats pass. There is also a land communication from one side of the lake to the other, along the bar, and by an elegant draw- bridge across the canal. The bridge is so contrived that two men can quickly put it off or on, by turning it one fourth round. As the Queenston approached with- in a few yards, the bridge was turned on, the vessel was instantly stopped, and the master went to the toll- house to settle for the tax ; so, in the course of three mi- nutes, the canal was thrown open and the steamer un- der weigh again. Burlington Bay is about six miles long, but not so broad at the bar, and approximating, in shape, to an irregular triangle. The land around this bay has a fine acclivity, and some beautiful farms appear along the margin ; while a little towards the in- terior, the woodland mountains rise to a majestic height. The Dundass river falls into the head of this bav, but the steam boats stop a little below on the south side. THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 207 There is no town at the wharf, and only two or three dwellings close by ; but the thriving village of Hamil- ton is only one mile distant, beyond a small mountain. When a steam boat arrives here, a great gun is fired on the top of the mountain, as a signal to warn the in- habitants of Hamilton ; and those who are going pas- sengers begin to prepare. The warning bell is rung fifteen minutes before starting, and, on this occasion, the gun on the mountain is fired again, which is a call for all passengers to repair to the vessel immediately. About six o’clock the starting bell was rung, and the steamer presently set off* for Niagara. There was a strong breeze right aft, and, in a short time, we were at the lower end of the bay. A perpetual current goes down the canal, there is no lock or barrier but the draw- bridge, and it was turned off as the vessel approached ; so, all things having been favourable, the Queenston passed through the canal with such velocity as I had ne- ver seen equalled in steam-boat navigation. The as- tonished workmen, about twenty in number, who were engaged at the south-east embankment, stood motion- less, while the vessel skipped past with a swiftness re- sembling a bird on wing. The whole bar is sand, with scarcely a vestige of vegetation to be seen, the canal passes through it near the middle, and there are a few dwellings near the bridge, but, from the extreme bar- renness of the site, it could scarcely be expected to in- crease to a village. Soon after having passed the canal, the cabin bell summoned us to supper. The evening was now becom- ing mild and delightful, and most of the cabin passen- gers returned to the deck immediately when supper was finished. Some passengers came on board from Hamil- ton, at the head of Burlington Bay, among whom was 208 JOURNAL OF A TOUR a young gentleman from Glasgow in Scotland, who kindly favoured the company with a few Scotch songs. Some of the passengers were originally from Scotland, to whom these songs, at such a time and place, were calculated to yield a peculiar gratification, and they were listened to with great attention, particularly The Laird o’ Cockpen,” Scots wha ha’e wi’ Wallace bled,” and, ‘"Auld Langsyne.” — And what lover of Scottish song could hear these beautifully sung, in a fine summer evening, enjoying a pleasure sail on the extensive lake of Ontario, without feeling highly delighted } The Welland Canal enters the lake betwixt Burling- ton Beach and Niagara, but the steam boats seldom touch here, so that passengers going by this canal to Lake Erie, ought to engage with the commander of whatsoever vessel they go with, to be landed at Port Dalhousie or St. Catherine’s ; and vessels are daily pas- sing from these places up the canal, during the naviga- ble season. Emigrants who have families or weighty luggage would perhaps find it more convenient to take a passage at Prescott on one of the schooners going direct to the head of Lake Erie, and then there would be no loss of time, or unnecessary trouble at the Welland Canal ; but those who have no family will likely prefer the stage line along the Niagara river, in order to see the falls. The journey betwixt the lakes can easily be ac- complished in one day, and the coaches stop at least three hours at Forsyth’s Pavilion beside the falls. By twelve at night the Queenston arrived at Niagara. The town is at some distance from the wharf, and when a steam boat arrives, Mr. Crysler, who keeps the chief hotel, generally sends a coach (or two if wanted) for the accommodation of passengers going to his THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 209 house. This conveyance costs the passengers nothing, and it does not cost the landlord a great deal, as the coaches belong to his establishment. However, it shows great attention on his part to customers, and is very convenient, as the hotel is one mile from the steam- boat wharf. After waiting some time, word was sent, that the coaches were all on the stage or out with par- ties, and not one returned. All the cabin passengers went on shore, except a Mr. Arold and myself, and we, having taken a passage each to the foot of the lake, stayed on board. Wednesday y 21th , — This morning I started by six o'clock, to enjoy the prospect in sailing up the river, as this steam boat goes to Queenston village, and the rest seldom go farther than the wharf at Niagara town, and Queenston is six miles farther. In a few minutes after I went on deck, the vessel was started off. The wharf is on the west side of the river, about a mile from the lake, but the town is a mile distant, and not in sight. The river is about half a mile broad where it enters the lake, and gradually contracts for two miles, where it is only about one fourth of a mile broad. A little above the wharf, the banks of the river on each side rise al- most perpendicularly to the height of ten yards, gradu- ally increasing in height, and, from the brink of the pre- cipice, on each side, there is a succession of fine table land. This morning the weather is mild and clear, and the bright green waters of the river appear slowly roll- ing along between the stupendous banks, with a few dwellings to be seen near the margin of the precipice, and the prospect, although circumscribed, is romantic and pleasing. A little above the wharf, the Queenston- heights come in view, and the monument on the summit appears with bold majestic grandeur. 210 JOURNAL OP A TOUR By eight o'clock we arrived at Kingston, which is the extreme point of navigation, as the river becomes so rapid here that no steam boat as yet has been able to proceed farther up. The bank here is above one hun* dred feet high, and the road takes a winding course up the precipice to the village. The stage coaches from Niagara to the falls, pass here at ten o'clock, morning, and always stop for passengers ; so Mr. Arold and I went to a tavern, where we ordered breakfast to be rea- dy by nine o'clock, and, in the meantime, went to view the heights, and ascend the monument. The village of Queenston is situated on the west bank of Niagara river, opposite the village of Lewiston, on the American side. It is seven miles from Lake Onta- rio, and seven miles below the falls. This village suf- fered during the late wars, and has not yet recovered, as some of the stone houses which were burnt, still remain in ruins. At present it contains about twenty dwellings, besides one place of public worship, three taverns, and two stores. The heights commence at the south end of the village, and to the base of the monu- ment on the summit is about half a mile. On reaching it, we demanded admission, which was readily granted on paying the usual charge of one shilling York each. This monument was erected to the memory of General Brock, who fell in the battle of Queenston, on the 13th October, 1812. The base is of a square fonn, and contains a lobby which is occupied by the keeper as a bar-room. Above the base, it forms a round pillar, with a stair inside leading to a fine gallery, which en- circles the column a little below the top. The height, from the ground to the apex, is one hundred and thirtv- five feet, and the whole building is hewn stone. This monument stands a few rods from the brink of the pre- THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 211 cipice, the site is three hundred feet high, and the per- pendicular elevation from the river to the gallery is about four hundred and twenty feet. The prospect which the amateur beholds here in a fine clear day, in the months of June and July, is truly picturesque and pleasing. — Queenston appears under the beholder’s feet, with smiling fields, gardens, and orchards, and the spot on which General Brock fell is in the comer of a field close by the village, marked by a small pole and white board descriptive of the event. It is proposed to erect a church on this memorable spot. The course of the river is seen for some miles below, with Fort Nia- gara on its eastern bank, where it enters the lake, and York the capital of Upper Canada, which lies on the opposite side of the lake, thirty-six miles from the mouth of the river, and forty-three from the monument, is distinctly seen, with the lofty mountains in the back ground, extending westward to the head of Burlington Bay, and the prospect down the lake extends as far as vision can stretch. The village of Lewiston is pleasant- ly situated on the eastern bank, opposite Queenston, where the river is scarce half a mile broad. The site is most delightful, being fine table land, and the buildings are arranged on one street, which commences at the brink of the precipice, where the height is at least one hundred feet above the river, and extends a consider- able distance to the east, where it seems lost in the fo- rest. The houses in general are fine frame buildings, painted white, each with an orchard or garden in the rear, and these are succeeded by fruitful fields, many of which are glowing with the ripeness of harvest, and some are already cut. This village is bounded on the east and north by forests, on the west by the river, and on the south by a fine rising ground similar to the 212 JOURNAL OP A TOUR Queenston heights, and exactly opposite ; so that, in point of beauty and elegance of situation, Lewiston, when viewed from the monument, is the prettiest vil- lage I have seen in the western world. The river above is concealed by the stupendous banks, and the high table land continues on both sides to the falls, which are also concealed by the intervening forests, but an oc- casional glimpse of the smoky cloud is frequently seen. The prospect both to the east and west, is a vast ex- tent of forest land, with now and then an occasional break, showing the hand of industry ; and there are handsome dwellings and beautiful farms all along the banks of the river. So, from the gallery of this monu- ment the prospect is one of the most extensive to be had in Upper Canada ; and, although a considerable portion of it consists of wood and water, yet it is far from being without interest ; and it is rendered still more so from the fact, that the place on which the be- holder stands, is the very spot whereon the celebrated battle of Queenston was fought, on the memorable 13th of October, 1812. The visitor here can behold every spot on which the particular events took place, — the field where the battle commenced — the spot on which the British General fell — the heights which the Ame- ricans ascended, pursued by the British army to the spot on which the monument stands. Here the British made a bold attack, and the Americans a brave defence ; but the latter unfortunately went too near the precipice, from which some of them fell, and were either drowned in the river or killed in the fall. So it is not without the most peculiar sensations, that the stranger casts his eve around the Queenston heights. Although at present he beholds the fields glowing in all the verdure of summer, yet he remembers the deeds which have made this a THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 213 scene of interest to the admirers of heroic valour and military chivalry. The brink of the river is only a few rods from the monument, and nearly perpendicular, with an elevation of about three hundred feet. The eastern bank rises exactly opposite, to a similar height, which is succeed- ed by fine table land and beautiful farms along both sides of the river. Every appearance seems to confirm the supposition, that at this place the falls once poured their immense volumes of water over a precipice, but, by a perpetual abrasion of the rock, have receded to their present situation seven miles above. After having viewed the various objects deserving attention here, we returned to the village to partake of breakfast before the stage-coaches arrived. However, it was not ready, although past the hour appointed, for the people at taverns in this country take such an un- accountable time to prepare a diet for travellers, that they sometimes Jose all patience before it appears. But at last breakfast was served up in middling style, and about ten sat at table, all going to visit the falls. The regular charge for a breakfast here is two shillings and sixpence York, as they generally count by York cur- rency along the frontiers of Niagara — a practice no doubt learned from their American neighbours on the eastern bank. At ten o’clock no stage was arrived, but four of us from Scotland were unwilling to stay longer, so we procured a post chaise in the village. As we were seating ourselves at the tavern door, some of the gentlemen who were standing there were pleased to compliment us with their unasked opinions. These wiseacres discovered by their penetration, that the chaise had a weakness, but where I never learned, and began to make their observations thus ; “That vehicle T 3 214 JOURNAL OF A TOUR is not sufficient to carry you — the crazy thing will come down with you/’ However, we gave them to under- stand, that we were of a different opinion, and at all events were determined to try ; so off we set, and a pleasant drive we had. After ascending the heights by a circuitous course, the road is pretty good and level, and in a short time we arrived at Drummondville, where we alighted for a few minutes. This village contains a small church, one tavern, and about a dozen private dwellings. We were now within the sound of the falls, and only two miles distant. After leaving this village, there is an occasional glimpse of the rapids above through the trees, but the road being a little sloping and easy, the Jehu- driver swept along so fast here, that we had little time to make observations, and, in a few minutes, we arrived at Forsyth’s pavilion. FALLS OF NIAGARA. There is no village or dwellings here but the hotel alone. It is a handsome frame building, of ample di- mensions, three stories high, with piazzas on both sides, and stands on the east side of the road which leads to Fort Erie, within half a mile of the falls. The approach from the hotel is through a forest, which conceals the prospect till close at the place, when the scene instan- taneously bursts forth with astonishing grandeur ! The place at which the visitor arrives by this route is Table Rock, so denominated from its being extremely level. It extends from the sheet of w’ater several rods down the Canada side, and projects some yards over the path- way which leads under the falls. This rock makes a circular bend where it crosses the stream, and the river THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 215 pours over the verge of the precipice in the form of a crescent. The sheet of water is separated by a small island, situated on the brink of the precipice, and called Goat Island. This leaves the grand fall on the Canada side about six hundred yards broad, and the high fall on the American side about three hundred. Between Goat Island and the American shore is another smaller island about twenty yards in width, which leaves a small sheet of water on the east of Goat Island from eight to ten yards broad. The fall on the American side is one hundred and sixty-four feet high ; and drops almost perpendicularly, presenting a large white sheet. The grand, or horse-shoe fall, on the Canada side, is one hundred and fifty feet high, and falls in the form of a semi-circle, extending some distance up the stream ; but, this being the lowest fall, by far the gTeatest body of water finds its way over here. The current of the river is strong all the way from Lake Erie, and still more so within two miles of the falls. For half a mile immediately above, there is a declivity estimated at fifty- eight feet, and the river here forms a rapid, where the beautiful clouds of green water and white foam come rolling down with majestic grandeur to the main pitch, where its own force makes it project at the middle of the sheet about fifty feet beyond the perpendicular, falling in the form of a curve to the reservoir with a thundering noise. Clouds of vapour rise from below, and dart up into the air, sometimes one hundred feet above the projecting leap, and fall like a soft shower whithersoever it is wafted by the wind. The basin below is like a vast quantity of milk, boiling and foaming with great agitation to a distance of about half a mile, where it begins to resume its bright green colour again. The emotions of admiration and delight which fill the 216 JOURNAL OP A TOUR mind on beholding this mighty work of nature can scarcely be felt from any effort of description ; for no words can express the consternation of spectators on viewing this sublime spectacle ; and, to be rightly understood, it must be realized. The mind must com- prehend in one view “the lofty banks and immense forests which environ this stupendous scene — the irre- sistible force and rapidity of motion displayed by the rolling waves as they tumble over the precipice — the uncommon brilliancy and variety of colours and shades — the ceaseless intumescence and swift agitation of the dashing waves below — the solemn and tremendous noise, with the volumes of vapour darting into the air, resembling the loud hoarse roar and smoke of an agi- tated volcano ! before it can form a just idea of the ecstasy inspired by this sublime scene. Safe and convenient stair- ways have been erected on each side of the river, leading to the margin of the stream below the falls. At Table Rock on the Canada side there is a neat cottage, and the staircase leads from the interior. A register is kept here for entering the names of visitors ; and, during summer, there are fre- quently thirty or forty in one day. The waxen dresses are k^pt here for those who choose to go under the falls. When I ordered a suit, the keeper showed me into a small room to lay off my clothes, and stayed to fit on the aquatic dress. The first thing presented was a pair of pantaloons, at least wide enough to hold two of my size, and they were fastened round the waist with a cord. The next article was a frock coat, which buttoned close to the chin, and was fastened tight at the waist with a band. A pair of shoes were then presented, which are necessary to keep the stones from cutting the feet. The fourth and last article was a Dunstable hat, painted to THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 217 make it waterproof, which completes the dress. The keeper and Mr. Arold were dressed before, so off we set to go under the falls. The pathway from the foot of the stair and underneath the sheet of falling water is some yards above the margin of the stream below, and the rock projects irregularly over it above. The preci- pice is composed of shelving rock, but the strata beneath is of a softer composition than the surface, which ac- counts for its wasting faster away below than above. On arriving at the sheet of water, the keeper informed us, that it was necessary to take hold of each other by the hand. Our guide, of course, led the way, my companion was next, and I happened to be in the rear. The entrance is only about the breadth of a common door, and it is filled with a dense cloud of vapour. We walked on several rods, and the passage was rather dark and suffocating. Still farther it became narrower, till it was only the breadth of one’s foot on the irregular face of the rock. There were several rods of this des- cription, in the course of which there was an irregular stair to descend of eight or ten steps. All along this narrow pass the broken water rushed down, till the weight of it made us stoop. Here the spray from the rock below darted up into our faces with such violence, that it was impossible for one to open his eyes but with a glimpse once in a few yards, and respiration is rather difficult, as the broken water dashes in every direction, threatening to choke all who attempt to breathe. About one-fourth of the whole distance, towards the inmost recess of this cavern of rock and flood, the way was more agreeable, till we arrived at an open space, where a rock impeded the progress. The keeper now informed us that we were below the great green sheet of falling water, and at Termination Rock, 218 JOURNAL OF A TOUR beyond which no one is known to have passed. The prospect here outvies description, and affords, if any thing can, a compensation for the difficulty of approach- ing this mighty scene. From the recess to the falling sheet is a distance of one hundred and fifty-three feet, and there is neither vapour nor spray here deserving the name ; but the thundering noise is like the wild hoarse roar of a volcano, and no words can be heard but a loud cry close by the ear, while the agreeable shade of reflected light through the green sheet of water makes this solemn scene still more impressive. But the grandest view beheld in this cavern is when the visitor casts his eye to the top of the stupendous preci- pice above, where the great green sheet comes rolling with majestic grandeur from the projecting leap, which can be distinctly seen for several rods along the verge ; and here, the awful height — the immense body of water — the bright green colour — the vast sheet — the impe- tuous force with which it leaps over the beholder’s head, present a spectacle truly magnificent and sublime. The following lines are calculated to aid the contem- plation on this majestic scene, as they were suggested by a gentleman who paid a visit to the “Termination Rock,” one hundred and fifty-three feet behind the great green sheet of falling water at the falls of Niagara, on the 6th of August, 1828 : — “ Look ! look up I the spray is dashing — Roaring waters foaming sweep : O’er our heads the torrents clashing, Hurling grandeur down the steep. Oh, mortal man ! beneath such splendour, How trifling, empty, vain, and poor ! Prepare, then, sinner, to surrender All thoughts unhallowed or impure. THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 219 Tremendous is the scene around us ! Oh, mark how wild the waters ring ! Terrific columns bright surround us ! Grand are thy works, O God, our King.” (Signed) JOHN M‘CLEARY, Buffalo Museum. On the outward passage I chose to be in the rear again, for the advantage of having a spare hand to hold on by the sharp comers of the slimy roek, as a safeguard against falling where the pass was narrow. When we reached the outside, each appeared rather exhausted with exertion, like one who had finished a race, and breathing with heavy draughts of respiration. Whether or not the scene behind the falling sheet is sufficient to repay the visitor for the lassitude and trouble of ap- proaching it is a point which must be decided by the different tastes of visitors. To every admirer of the stupendous works of nature the prospect is truly sublime ; but whoever pays a visit to Termination Rock'* will find the passage a shower bath of the first magnitude, whenever he chooses to refresh therein. When we returned to the keeper’s house, and got dressed in our own clothes, we had then to pay half a dollar each, which is the regular charge made on all those who are conducted under the falls. Mr. Forsyth now informed us, that we were the thirty-sixth couple whom he had led this year behind the falling sheet ; and, said he, "" I can pay you this compliment, that you two have gone the most fearless of any I have conducted thither this season.” I then asked him if all proceeded to Termi- nation Rock who attempted to go, and if the ladies went through with alacrity. The reply was thus, — “ There are only a few of the visitors who choose to go under the falls, and even the half of those who essay to go turn before they reach half way ; and the few ladies 220 JOURNAL OH A TOUR who have attempted to go always turned at the broken water/* Our names were now entered in the register, and each received a printed certificate, signed by the keeper, of which the following is a correct copy : — <^This may Certify, that T F has passed with me beneath the Table Rock, and behind the Great Falling Sheet, under the Falls of Niagara, to ^‘Termination Rock/' ‘‘ Given under vny hand^ at the Office of the General Register of Visitors^ at the Table Rocky this 27th day of July, 1831. (Signed) “Collingwood Forsyth, G. N. F.” I shall just finish at Table Rock, by saying that Mr. Forsyth pays great attention to all visitors, and those who choose to go under the falls will find him exceed- ingly careful. I now set out in company with two gentlemen who were going to view the falls from the ferry-boat, which is about half a mile below, where a winding passage leads down the precipice to the margin of the stream. As we arrived, the boat was pulling oflF with a few pas- sengers, and we embraced the opportunity of crossing to the American side. The fare for each is one shilling York, and the same either way. The river here is little more than a fourth of a mile broad, but the current is very rapid, and all above to the falling sheet, the white dashing waves are boiling and maddening in wild dis- order. A wooden stair leads up the face of a naked rock to the top of the precipice on the American shore, and, a few rods up the stream, a wooden bridge crosses to Goat Island. This island is celebrated for having been the favourite residence of the hermit of Niagara falls, for the two last years of his life, which only ter- THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 221 rainated about six weeks ago. As the memory of this singular personage and accomplished gentleman will long be associated with Goat Island and Niagara falls, I used my utmost endeavours to procure information respecting him. The particulars of the habits and death of Francis Abbott were written by a gentleman residing in the immediate vicinity, and are inserted here for the information of the curious. THE HERMIT OF NIAGARA FALLS. In the afternoon of the 18th June, 1829, a tall, well- built, and handsome man, dressed in a long loose gown or cloak, of a chocolate colour, was seen passing through the principal street of the village of Niagara falls, on the American side. He had under his left arm a roll of blankets, a flute, a portfolio, and a large book, and in his right hand he carried a small stick. He ad- vanced towards the Eagle Hotel, attracting the gaze of the visitors there and others about the place, by his eccentric appearance. With elastic step and animated motion, he passed the hotel, heeded not the inquiring gaze of the idle multitude, but, erect, proudly bent his course to the small and lowly inn of Ebenezer O'Kelly. He at once entered into stipulations with his host, that the room he occupied should be solely his own ; that he should have his table to himself, and on- ly certain parts of his cooking should be done by Mrs. O'Kelly. He made the usual inquiries as to the locali- ties of the falls, and wished to know if there was a li- brary or reading room in the village. On being informed that there was a library, he immediately repaired to the individual by whom it was kept, deposited three 222 JOURNAL OF A TOUR dollars, and took out a book. He then purchased a violin, borrowed music books, and informed the libra- rian that his name was Francis Abbott, and that he should remain a few days at the falls. He also con- versed with him upon various subjects, and his lan- guage was delivered with great ease and ability. The next day he returned to the librarian, expatiated largely upon the beautiful scenery of the falls, the grand views of the cascades and cataracts, and of that most sublime prospect, the falls themselves. In all his tra- vels, he said, he had never met with any thing that would compare with it for sublimity, except Mount Et- na during an eruption. He then intimated that he should remain at least a week ; observing, that as well might a traveller, in two days, examine in detail the various museums and curiosities of Paris, as become ac- quainted with the splendid scenery of Niagara in the same space of time. When he was informed that visi- tors at the falls frequently remained but a day or two, he expressed his astonishment that they should be so little interested in the grand and beautiful works of na- ture, as to spend only so short a period. After a few days he called again, and again expatiat- ed on the beauties of the falls, adding, that he had con- cluded to remain a month at least, and perhaps six months. In a short time after this, he determined to fix his abode upon Goat or Iris Island, and was desir- ous of erecting a rustic hut, for the purpose of abstract- ing himself from all society, and becoming a solitary hermit. The proprietor of this island did not think proper to grant him the privilege of erecting a building for such a use, but permitted him to occupy a small room in the only house on the island. At this time there lived a family in the house, who furnished him THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 223 occasionally with bread and milk; but he generally dis- pensed with these, providing himself with other articles, and always doing his own cooking. This was his per- manent residence for about twenty months. Last win- ter the family removed, and, to those persons with whom he held any communication, he expressed his great sa- tisfaction at having it in his power to live alone. For some months he seemed to enjoy himself very much, until another family entered the house. He then con- cluded to erect a cottage of his own, and, as he could not do it on the island, he determined to build it on the main shore. It yet stands about thirty rods from the main fall, on the bank of the river. And he occu- pied it for about two months. On Friday, the 10th of June last, he went twice to the river to bathe, and was seen to go a third time, at which time the ferryman saw him in the water. This was about two o'clock in the afternoon. The ferryman did not see him return, and his clothes were observed where he had deposited them. An examination was immediately made, but the body could not be discovered. On Tuesday, the 21st of June, the body was found at Fort Niagara, and, on the following day, it was remov- ed to the burial ground at Niagara falls, and there de- cently interred. Thus terminated the career of the unfortunate Fran- cis Abbott— little known, indeed, even to those near whom he had spent the last two years of his life. Some few gleanings only can be given. He was an English gentleman, of a respectable family, of highly cultivated mind and manners. He had a finished education, and was not only master of the languages, and deeply read in the arts and sciences, but displayed all the minor ac- complishments of the gentleman ; possessing colloquial 224 JOURNAL OF A TOUR powers in an eminent degree, and music and drawing in great perfection. Several years of his life had been spent in travelling. He had visited Eg>"pt and Pales- tine ; travelled through Turkey, Greece, Italy, Spain, Portugal, and France ; and had resided for considerable periods of time in Rome, Naples, and Paris. When at the falls, business brought him in contact with some of the inhabitants, with a few of whom he would some- times be sociable, but to all others he was distant and reserved. At such times, his conversation would be of the most interesting kind, and his descriptions of the people and countries were highly glowing and animated. But at times, even with those he would hold no conver- sation, and communicated his wishes on a slate, at the same time requesting that nothing might be said to him. Sometimes for three or four months together, he would go unshaved, often with no covering on his head, and his body enveloped in a blanket, shunning all, and seek- ing the deepest solitude of Iris Island. He composed much, and generally in Latin, but destroyed his com- positions almost as fast as he produced them. When his little cot was examined, hopes were entertained that some manuscript or memorial of his own composition might be found, but he had left nothing of the kind. His faithful dog guarded the door, and was with diffi- culty persuaded to move aside while it was opened. The cat occupied the place appropriated as his bed, and the guitar, violin, flutes, and music books, were scattered around in confusion. There was a portfolio, and the leaves of a large book ; but not a word, not even his name, was written in any of them. Many spots on Iris Island are consecrated to the me- mory of Francis Abbott. On the upper end of the island he had established his walk, and at one place it THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA, 225 was become hard trodden, like that on which a sentinel performs his tour of duty. Between Iris Island and Moss Isle, there is embowered in seclusion and shade, one of the most charming waterfalls or cascades imagin- able. This was his favourite retreat for bathing. Here he resorted at all seasons of the year. In the coldest weather, even when there was snow on the ground and ice in the river, he continued to bathe in the Niagara. At the lower extremity of the island is a bridge leading to what is called the Terrapin Rocks. From this bridge extends a single piece of timber some twelve or fifteen feet over the precipice. On this bridge it was his daily practice to walk. With a quick step he would pass the bridge, advance on the timber to the extreme point, turn quickly on his heel and walk back, continuing thus to walk for hours together. Sometimes he would let himself down at the end of the projecting plank, and hang under it by his hands and feet, over the terrific precipice, for fifteen minutes at a time. To the inquiry why he would thus expose himself, he would reply, that in crossing the ocean he had frequently seen the sea boy perform far more perilous acts, and, as he should probably again pass the sea himself, he wished to inure himself to such dangers. If the nerves of others were disturbed, his were not. In the wildest hours of the night, he was often found walking alone and undismayed, in the most dangerous places near the falls ; and, at such times, he would shun approach, as if he had a dread of man. He had a sti- pend allowed him of about five dollars a week. He al- ways attended to the state of his accounts very careful- ly, was economical in the expenditure of money for his own immediate use, and generous in paying for all fa- vours and services, never receiving any thing without u 3 226 JOURNAL O? A TOUR making immediate payment. He had a deep and abid- ing sense of religious duty and decorum, was mild in his behaviour, and inoffensive in his conduct. Religion was a subject he well understood, and highly appreci- ated. The charity he asked from others, he extended to all mankind. What, it will be asked, could have broken up and de- stroyed such a mind as Francis Abbott’s ? What could have driven him from the society he was so well quali- fied to adorn ; and what transformed him, noble in per- son and intellect, into an isolated anchorite, shunning the association of his fellow-men ? The history of his misfortunes is not known, and the cause of his unhap- piness and seclusion will undoubtedly to us be ever a mystery. During his stay here, he was perfectly infa- tuated with the scenery of the falls, and expressed him- self in ecstasies with the romantic retreats of Iris Island. At the time of his death, he was about twenty-eight years of age. CLIFTON VILLAGE. The prospect of the falls and rapids, as beheld from Goat or Iris Island, is very prett}" ; but it is generally allowed, that the most eligible view is from Table Rock, on the Canada side. Consequently, from the advantage of the commanding prospect, the spot immediately above the ferry-boat has been selected for the site of a village, to be called Clifton. This is the name of the beautiful little embryo village that has just been laid out on the Canada side of the Niagara falls, a few hundred yards below the cataract, on a beautiful spot of ground which commands an unobstructed and perfect view of this THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA, 227 sublime spectacle. It is on the top of the bank, four hundred and seventy feet above the river, and only five hundred yards from Table Rock, down the stream. It is bounded on the lower side by the road leading from Forsyth’s hotel and Drummondville to the ferry, along which road lots, sixty feet front by one hundred and twenty feet deep, have been staked out for hotels, shops, mechanics’ residences, &c. Mr. Chryster, who at pre- sent has the inn at Drummondville, is making prepara- tions for erecting a comfortable hotel in Clifton at the very verge of the clifl’. A livery stable, at which will be kept carriages, gigs, and saddle horses, for the accommodation of visitor?:, will, together with the hotel, be ready about May, 1832. In a beautiful meadow, studded with young walnut and maple trees, a crescent has been laid out, embracing sixteen lots, large enough for an English cottage, gar- den, and partege each. On the bottom of the crescent, four acres of shrubbery have been reserved to add to its beauty. Vistas through this shrubbery afford from dif- ferent points the most enchanting views of the graceful and picturesque fall on the American side of the river. On the right, the view embraces the whole extent of Goat Island, together with the tremendous and magni- ficent body of water which rushes over the precipice of the horse-shoe fall. There is but one cataract of Niagara ; — and no spot on either side of the river possesses advantages which belong to the site of Clifton. It is intended that the cottages shall be ornamented without being very expen- sive. Stone is in great abundance a few yards from the crescent, and lime to any extent will be furnished from the adjoining farm at the lowest price. To re- spectable families, who value the enjoyment of health, 228 JOURNAL OF A TOUR and the advantages of a pleasing prospect, it is almost impossible to contemplate a site for a genteel summer residence more exquisitely delightful than this upon which the village of Clifton is laid out. Niagara falls are situated on the Niagara river, four- teen miles from Lake Ontario, and twenty-one from Lake Erie. This strait, which unites the waters of these two lakes together, is thirty-five miles long, and varies from little more than one-fourth of a mile to six or seven miles in breadth. Between Lake Erie and the falls, the banks are from two to one hundred feet in height ; and here, the course of the river is north-west by west ; but, below the falls, it takes a northerly di- rection to Lake Ontario. There are several islands above the falls. The largest is Grand Island, which was ceded to the state of New York by the Seneca nation of Indians in 1815. For this grant, the state paid one thousand dollars dowm, and secured an annuity of five hundred dollars. The island is twelve miles long, and from two to six broad. It contains one hun- dred and sixty families, who have made considerable improvements. The scener}" along the Niagara is allowed to vie with the prettiest landscapes in Upper Canada, and stands unrivalled for its grandeur and magnificence. From the falls to Fort Erie and Buflhlo there are stages twdce a-day, and the fare four cents per mile on either side of the river. From Forsyth’s, at the falls, to Fort Erie, at the village of Waterloo, is nineteen miles ; from the ferry to Black Rock, one mile ; and thence to Buffalo, two miles. On the Ame- rican side, from the Eagle Tavern, at the falls, to Black Rock, is nineteen, and thence to Buflalo, two miles. The beautiful and tliriving village of Buftalo is situated on the American side, at the outlet of Lake Erie ; and THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA, 229 the steam boats which ply to the head of the lake ge- nerally start from this place. The Erie Canal also commences here, and extends to the city of Albany, on the west side of the Hudson river. The whole line of this canal is three hundred and sixty miles. It is forty feet broad at the top, and twenty-eight at the bottom. The water flows at the depth of four feet, with the moderate descent of half an inch to the mile. The whole length of the canal includes eighty-three locks, and eighteen aqueducts of various extent. This magnificent structure was commenced in 1817, upon the memorable day on which the States in the union celebrate the anniversary of their independence, viz, the 4th of July ; and, in the course of seven years, this stupendous work, which cost the state nearly seven millions of dollars, was nearly completed, and in full operation. Passengers coming by way of New York have to take a steam boat to the city of Albany, which is one hundred and sixty miles up the Hudson river. The cabin fare is four dollars, and deck passage one dollar. The packet boats start daily from Albany dur- ing the navigable season, and proceed at the rate of four miles per hour, which accomplishes ninety-six miles every twenty-four hours. These boats are drawn by three horses, and relieves are furnished at proper distances ; so, by this route, the journey from New York to Bufl’alo, which is five hundred and twenty miles, is generally accomplished in about five days. The fare on the packet boats is four cents per mile, including board ; and the cabins, in general, are handsomely fitted up, with accommodation for thirty persons. After viewing the falls on both sides of the river, we returned to the hotel, and dinner was being placed on the table just as we arrived. Visitors are charged six 230 JOURNAL OF A TOUR shillings York for a dinner here ; but it is expected,'^ when the village of Clifton is erected, that boarding will become cheaper, and, when the guests are divided, visitors will be more amply accommodated. During my stay, I paid a visit to the burning spring, situated on the Canada side, about one mile above the falls. This interesting natural curiosity is kept in a small cottage, erected for the purpose of preserving it from injury ; and visitors who are admitted here are charged one shilling York. The interior of the cottage forms a small room with seats round the walls, and the spring is confined in a cask which is situated in the middle of the floor. A small cask, of the size and shape of a water pail, is placed on the top, the mouth embracing the spring ; and it becomes narrower towards the upper end, into which is placed a metal tube, of about one foot long, and one inch in diameter. The inflammable air which this spring emits ascends by the tube, and readily catches flame from a burning taper three feet above the top of the tube. The flame blazes for about fifteen inches above. It is of a red colour, with a strong heat, and makes a rattling noise. It continued to burn for fifteen minutes without the least diminution, and would probably burn perpetually, if allowed. Tlie cask with the tube, when set aside into the floor, burns five minutes with the air which it contains ; and, when small pieces of burning paper are thrown upon the spring, the air catches fire, and gives a blaze resembling a glass of spirits thrown into fire. The wnter is black, similar to thin ink, and the whole house smells dread- fully of sulphur. At five in the afternoon, two coaches from Fors}i:h’s started for Niagara, and at six we arrived at Queenston. A considerable delay ensued here, which the passengers THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 231 did not at first comprehend ; but, at last, they began to fancy it was a plan calculated to make them weary sitting in the coach, and by this means go into the tavern and spend a few shillings. However, the gentle- men in the coach in which I was were determined not to spend a single cent, on account of such treatment ; and, at last, gave the milksop driver to understand, that, if he did not start presently, they would take per- sonal satisfaction of him. He now intimated, that we had to leave the coach we were in, and go into another which stood beside, as the coaches from Crysler’s at Niagara, and those from Forsyth’s at the falls, meet at Queenston to exchange passengers, and then return to their own place. They presently went into the other coach, expressing their indignation at the driver for not informing them of this arrangement when they arrived. As soon as we were seated, our new coachman mounted his seat, as he had learned by what had just passed, that it was no fit time to parley ; so off he drove at full gallop. The gentlemen instantly cheered till the uproar was heard over all Queenston ; and the villagers ran to the doors and windows to see what was ado ; but the modern Jehu-driver continued to sweep along at full gallop ; and, as the whip went smack, the wheels flew round, till the stones rattled as if the road were mad. By the time that things were come to rights we had lost sight of Queenston, after which one of the gentlemen sung Scotch songs till we arrived at the Niagara Hotel. During the revolutionary wars between the British and the Americans, a fortress was erected here, and called Fort George. Some years after, a village was commenced, and called Newark. It was burnt during the late wars, in the year 1813; but has since been 232 JOURNAL OF A TOUR rebuilt, and called Niagara. This town is situated on the west side of the river, about one mile distant, and nearly the same from Lake Ontario. The houses are principally frame buildings, and arranged in straight streets, which intersect each other at right angles, and are ornamented with rows of poplars to keep off the sun. This is the chief town in the district of Niagara, and sends a member to parliament. It contains a Catholic church, an English church, a Scotch church, and a Methodist chapel ; also a jail, and the court house of the county ; with stores, taverns, and almost all sorts of mechanics. On the south and west of the town, there is an extensive field of table land, remarkable for its levelness and beauty, part of which is occupied as a parade ground by the troops of the garrison. As this is still kept up as a military station, although Fort George was destroyed during the late war, another has been erected, called Fort Mississaga. Fort Niagara is situated on the east side of the river, where it enters the lake, on an elevated site, where it has a complete command of the river at the mouth. In the year 1679, a militar}^ post was established here; and, in 1725, a regular fortress was built by the French, which afterwards passed into the hands of the British, along with the Canadas ; and, in 1796, it was ceded to the Americans, who have kept possession of it ever since. The Americans have erected an eles'ant liirht house at this fort, which is of gi-eat service to mariners entering or leaving the river at night. The Niagara river forms a part of the boundarv line between the Canadas and the United States. Conse- quently, it has been the scene of many militarv opera- tions, at the different periods when national differences demanded an appeal to arms. The battle of Queenston, THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 233 in which general Brock of the British army was mor- tally wounded, took place on the 13th October, 1812, and the burning of the villages of Newark, Black Rock, and Buffalo, was in December, 1813. The battle of Chippewa was fought on the 5th of July, 1814; and the glitter of arms in the bright sunshine has been described as one of the most brilliant spectacles that could well be conceived. The battle of Lundielane was fought on the 25th of the same month, also on the Canada side, at a short distance from the mighty cata- ract of Niagara, and within the sound of its thunders. In proportion to the numbers engaged, this was a very sanguinary, and, says a writer who was an officer in the army, decidedly the best fought action which ever took place on the American continent.’' The British had collected their whole force on the peninsula, and were reinforced by troops from Lord Wellington’s army just landed from Kingston. The action commenced at seven in the evening, and an uninterrupted stream of musketry continued till half-past eight, when the British began to fall back. It soon began again with artillery, which, with slight interruptions, continued till half-past ten, when there was a tremendous stream of fire which closed the conflict. For two hours the hostile lines were within twenty yards of each other ; and, although the moon shone brightly, they were so intermingled, that an officer would sometimes order an enemy’s pla- toon. The American loss, in killed, wounded, and prisoners, was eight hundred and sixty ; and the British loss, eight hundred and seventy-eight. About nine in the evening we had supper, for which each was charged three shillings York. There were nearly twenty of the visitors going passengers with the Queenston steam boat, and, about ten, we were conveyed X 234 JOURNAL OF A TOUR thither in coaches, a compliment usually paid to the visitors at the Niagara Hotel both going to and from the steam boats. Thus I left the frontier of Niagara, regretting that I had not arranged to stay at least two weeks in such a beautiful section of the country. FROM NIAGARA TO QUEBEC. Thursday, 28th . — Before one in the morning, the Queen ston started for York, where we arrived by six o’clock. There was only a short stay made here this morning, for a few passengers who were coming on board. In the meantime, a gentleman asked me to go on board the Canada steam boat, which lay alongside, and be treated to a glass of bitters. Before we left the bar-room, the waiter asked us to go and view the cabin. As this steamer makes a regular trip each day, no berths are required ; but the cabin is elegantly furnished with sofas all round, and is, in my opinion, the most com- fortable cabin I have ever seen. This morning there was a keen north-west breeze, and a little swell began to appear in the lake. At seven we were under weigh again ; and, as the weather was rather cold, the gentlemen wore cloaks all day. Towards night there was a strong breeze, with a heavy swell in the lake, which did infinite damage to the bar-keeper’s wine decanters and glasses. Friday, 29M. — The weather was become ver\’ agree- able this morning, with a light refreshing breeze ; and before seven we arrived at Kingston, After a short ^ay, the vessel started off for Brockville ; and the clus- ter of islands lies betwixt these two places. It is very delightful to see the vast number of islands here, with THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 235 their pleasing variety of shapes and sizes. Some appear level, and others rising to the middle, like a mountain, beautifully covered with wood, and differing in extent, from the size of a breakfast table to that of a very large farm. Some of the channels are contracted to the breadth of a street, and, at other places, an expanded bay appears, surrounded with islands of various extent and elevation. This, together with the velocity with which a steam boat meanders through these beautiful bays, channels, and islands, and when viewed in a fine summer^s day, presents to the traveller a scene truly picturesque and pleasiug. There are a few inhabitants on some of these islands who as yet sit rent and tax free. As it is not decided which channel the boundary line is to pass through, the inhabitants of these islands have to take chance whether they shall become subjects of Canada or the United States, when the boundary question is decided. The islands are passed a few miles before reaching Brockville, where we arrived at four in the afternoon. The lake gradually contracts to this place, where the breadth is only two miles across to the village of Morristown opposite, upon the American side. Below this, it has all the appearance of a large river to Prescott, where the breadth is a mile and one-fourth to Ogdensburgh, on the opposite shore. This is the ex- treme point of the lake navigation downwards, as the river becomes rapid immediately below. Business led me on shore at Brockville, and the mas- ter warned me not to stay above ten minutes. However, being busily engaged, seventeen minutes flew past on eagles’ wings ; and, before I could reach the wharf, the steamer was ofi* : thus I lost my passage for twelve miles. However, the afternoon was pleasant, with a fine west breeze ; so, without loss of time, I bent my 236 JOURNAL OF A TOUR course to Prescott, The road leads along an elevated bank, at a short distance above the stream ; the prospect embraces both sides, which are embellished with hand- some dwellings and smiling farms ; and the numerous orchards, along the sides of the way, were bending their boughs loaded with fruit over the paling into the public road. Many of the fields were glowing with the ripeness of harvest, while the reapers were busily en- gaged in some of these ; which, together with the sheep and hogs grazing in the fields, and the lowing herds of cattle, presented to the traveller rural scenes delight- fully pleasing. About half way down, the road passes through a small village, called Maitlandtown ; and, a little below this, Prescott appears, where I arrived just as the sun began to descend below the horizon. The diary of the voyage down the lake must be omitted for want of room. However, passengers going with Mr. Mennelly of the Queenston will find him a very agreeable commander, and his servants for attention are not sur- passed. When I arrived at the steam boat, the passen- gers were all gone ; and those bound for Montreal, sixteen in number, were off with the stages about an hour before. Saturday, ZOth . — At six o’clock this morning, I em- barked on board a batteau-boat loaded with wheat, and about to descend the river from Prescott to Lachine. The weather was clear and delightful, with a fine light breeze down the river, and when we moved off, another batteau-boat started in company with us. The current is very strong all the way to Cornwall, in the course of which several rapids occur, particularly the Longue Sault, which is nine miles in length. Here the river has a continued declivity, and the white breakers come rolling and dashing along with great velocity. Some THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 237 turns of this rapid, which can be seen at a little dis- tance, present to the spectator a prospect resembling a river of milk, and the rushing noise is often heard eight or ten miles off. In the midst of a rapid, when the observer casts his eye over the edge of the boat, the scene around is very terrific. The boat seems to stand still in the midst of the white breakers, which are dashing and maddening around, and occasionally pelting over, while one of the men must be stationed to throw out water whenever it happens to come in ; but the scene is instantly relieved when the spectator casts his eye on the shore, which perhaps is but a few rods oflF, and sees himself carried along with the swiftness of a bird on wing. About noon, we reached Cornwall, fifty miles below Prescott, after which a sail was hoisted to Coteau du Lac, a dis- tance of forty-one miles ; and, although the water has little current here, a fine west breeze swept us to the lower end of the lake by five in the afternoon. Rapids commence immediately below this, and we had only descended about eight miles, vrhen the men were glad to run the boat into Cedars Creek, as the wind blew a heavy gale, and rendered it very dangerous to proceed farther. The commander of the boat desired a young gentleman and me, who happened to be all the passen- gers, to go and get lodging in the neighbourhood, as he would not start with the boat till daylight. By this time, the other boat, which started with us from Pres- cott, had arrived to take shelter beside us through the night. The boats lay at the foot of an orchard and garden ; and, as there was a farm house at the upper end, the young man and I went thither to ask for lodging. We were met at the door by the mistress of the house, who was an old woman, and could speak nothing but , X 3 238 JOURNAL OP A TOUR French. She was dressed in a tawdry suit of clothes, which had once been black, but which, by being worn perhaps for half a century, had acquired a shade of fox colour. She wore a cap far down in front, which had once been white, but now removed several shades from the original colour, with an old black silk handkerchief above. The complexion was one of a dingy dye ; and the sunken cheeks, the long hawk nose, the hollow mouth, and the tumed-up chin, which threatened war with the nose, although very near relations, the black piercing eyes looking from the deep covert of black heavy brows, with an arch expression, eccentric, wild, and disdainful, as if some guilty action or horrible design was concealed in the heart of the wearer, presented a countenance, of which, praise be blest,*' few similar are to be seen in an age. The whole of the dress appeared in the last quarter, which, together with the uncouth aspect, was the very likeness of a witch represented on a stage. We soon learnt that there was no spare bed, but this was no disappointment to me ; for, although I think myself no more frightened at ordinary things than other people, yet, there was something so forbidding in this woman's countenance, that I acknowledge I would not have at^ tempted to sleep in the same house with her, under anv circumstances whatsoever. We then returned to the boat, as we did not choose to lodge at a distance, in case of losing our passage. The daxk-gathering clouds now announced a heavy fall of rain, which commenced about eight in the evening, accompanied by a severe thunder storm, which lasted till near daylight, and the thick darkness of the night was frequentlv relieved by terrific blazes of lightning. During the night, we were all glad to creep under the oil cloth to keep oft' the rain. THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 239 each boat being provided with a covering of this de- scription for keeping the bags of wheat dry. Sunday, 315 ^. — This morning by five o’clock the tem- pest had subsided ; and we proceeded on our journey, down the rapids of the Cedars, the Cascades, and Lake St. Louis, which finishes this aquatic excursion. There are several rapids in the St. Lawrence, but the princi- pal are the Longue Sault, Rapids of the Cedars, and the Cascades of St. Louis. The first of these is nine miles in length, and terminates a little above Cornwall ; it is commonly passed in twenty minutes, which is at the rate of twenty-seven miles an hour. The Rapids of the Cedars are immediately below the village of the Cedars, and terminate about three miles above the Cascades. This latter is a beautiful rapid, above a mile broad, and, after a course of two miles of white breakers, the ma- jestic waves roll foaming into Lake St. Louis. The passage down the rapids- is very novel to a foreigner ; and, being diversified with the perpetually varying scene- ry of the numerous islands in the river, with the farms and villages along the banks of the St. Lawrence, pre- sents a succession of picturesque and rural scenes, with which the traveller cannot fail to be gratified. How- ever, this aquatic excursion is not without the dread of danger, as some of the commanders are low drunken fellows, and the numerous shoals and islands in the ri- ver render the navigation very difficult. Besides, when these small craft are overtaken by a squall on the lakes, they are barely a safe conveyance. On our passage down Lake St. Louis, we were favoured with a fine west breeze, till within two miles of Lachine, when a sudden gust fi*om the north threatened to upset the boat, till the sail was got pulled down. These squalls, which are frequent on the river and the lakes, are sometimes 240 JOURNAL OP A TOUR very dangerous, especially when they are of long dura- tion, but the one we experienced only continued a few minutes. However, one of a more serious nature took place here only a few days ago. On the afternoon of Thursday the 21st current, the island of Montreal and neighbourhood was visited by a thunder storm of li- mited duration, accompanied by severe squalls of wind from the north. Several trees about the mountain were blown down, and the temporary shed erected by the Emigrant Society, on the Plains of St. Anne, at the ci- ty of Montreal, for the accommodation cf the houseless emigrants, was at the same time levelled with the ground, exposing its poor inmates to the pelting of the pitiless storm. But an occurrence of rather a singular descrip- tion took place during the storm on this Lake of St. Louis. A stage coach had been put on board the steam boat, to be brought from Cascades to Lachine, into which Mr. Waters of the Cedars, and Mr. Molson, jun. from Montreal, entered, to shelter themselves from the rain when it commenced falling. When about the mid- dle of the lake, a violent gust of wind drove the coach against the railing, and carried her overboard. At this moment it was not known that any one was in the stage ; but, the two individuals referred to being presentlv missed, a boat was immediately lowered, and, with some * difficulty, they were happily rescued, at a time when thev were up to their necks in water, and their heads pressed into the roof of the coach, where some air re- mained for them to breathe. To the circumstance of the coach having a round top, their preservation may in a great measure be attributed ; and, in a few minutes after they were extricated from their perilous situation, the stage coach sunk. A little before ten o’clock, we arrived at Lachine, just as the church bell summoned the people to prayers ; THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 241 and, at the same time, we heard the church bell of Caughnawaga, an Indian village on the opposite shore, about two miles distant. On our landing at Lachine, my fellow traveller and I procured a one-horse waggon, and immediately set out for Montreal, where we arrived a little before twelve at noon ; and thus we accomplished a journey of one hundred and forty miles in thirty hours. Monday, 1st August . — In the course of this day I paid a visit to the top of the mountain, to view the city and surrounding country from this elevated spot. The prospect from the east end is perhaps the best, but the forest partly intercepts the view, so that it is only seen in portions, by walking from one place to another. The view of the city from the mountain is very beautiful, as almost every house can be seen. The tin roofs and spires, when glittering with the sun, have a brilliant appearance, which is pleasantly relieved by the sur- rounding orchards and gardens on the land side, the spacious sheet of water in front, and the beautiful island of St. Helen, with its fort and woodland mountain. Along the banks of the river, the villages can be traced for forty miles below ; and, towards the south, a vast extent of country is seen, with mountains in the States, one hundred miles off. On the north, the spectator be- holds a thickly-settled country along the branch of the river which separates the island from the main land, with fine clearances and smiling fields, loaded with the fruits of harvest. The landscape on the west is not ob- servable from the east end of the mountain ; but, at a considerable distance towards the west, there is a view of Lake St. Louis, Cascades, Coteau du Lac, and a con- siderable distance along the banks of the Ottowa. A gentleman who resides on the north side of the Ottowa 242 JOURNAL OF A TOUR river, informed me that this mountain was distinctly seen with the naked eye from his door, at a distance of seventy miles ; which I believe is perfectly correct, from the great distance it is seen up the St. Lawrence. It is much to be regretted by every lover of the pictur- esque who visits Montreal, that Nelson’s monument at the head of the new market was not erected on the sum- mit of the mountain, and of an equal height to General Brock’s monument on the Queenston Heights, with an inside stair leading to a gallery at or near the top. On such a gallery the spectator would be elevated entirely above the encircling forest, where the expanded pros- pect around would be as far as vision could stretch in almost every direction. Some are of opinion that, from such an elevation, in a clear day, with the aid of a good glass, the spires of Prescott would be seen, at the lower end of Lake Ontario, a distance of one hundred and forty miles, and numerous objects one hundred miles off. The mountain is much resorted to as it is, both by foreigners and others, on account of the beautiful scene- ry around ; but how much more so would it be, if such facility was afforded as a monument, with a spectator’s gallery, when the visitor would at once behold one of the most extensive scenes, and (with the exception of the surrounding scenery of Quebec), one of the most beautiful landscapes in the Canadas. It may be acceptable to gentlemen visiting IMontreal, to mention some of the genteel lodging houses. The British American Hotel, St. Paul Street, is considered the head inn. Tliis hotel is the largest, and, in point of architectural beauty, the most magnificent of any in the countrv. Attached to, and in rear of the main building, is an extensive promenade gallery, of one hundred and fifty feet in length, commanding a most extensive and THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 243 delightful view of the river and harbour with the ship- ping, the island of St. Helen, the Chambly and Belail mountains, and the adjacent country. The spacious dining room of this establishment is eighty feet by forty, besides which, there are general and private par- lours, with bed-rooms attached, and an extensive ball- room, all furnished in a neat and elegant style. — Board and lodging, two dollars per day, and ten dollars per week. The theatre, a small but handsome building, is adjoining to this. The Exchange Coffee House is in the same street, near the head of the old market. It is handsomely furnished, and contains an extensive suite of apart- ments. — Board and lodging, seven shillings and sixpence per day, and seven dollars per week. Those who desire a more retired residence will find Mrs. Cutter’s Lodgings, Haymarket, a very comforta- ble boarding-house. — Terms, one dollar per day, and five dollars per week. Wednesday, 3rf. — At twelve noon I embarked on board a steam boat, bound for Quebec. Immediately after, a gentleman was coming on board with a horse which he was taking to the Quebec races. But, before he reached the deck, the animal went over the edge of the plank into the river. At the place where this hap- pened, little assistance could be given to the drowning horse, as he was confined between a ship and the steam- er ; but, when the current had carried him down a short distance, he was got pulled ashore by the aid of a rope, and afterwards came safe on board the steam boat. The want of wharfs at Montreal has long been a great inconvenience at the port ; but there are four new wharfs in progressive erection, which, when completed, 244 JOURNAL OP A TOUR will be of great advantage to all those connected with the shipping. At six o’clock we arrived at Sorel, forty-five miles below Montreal. This town is situated on the east bank of the river Sorel at its junction with the St. Law- rence. It was commenced by the British in 1785, and is regularly laid out with streets crossing each other at right angles, leaving a square in the centre. The pri- vate dwellings amount to two hundred, with a popula- tion of nearly two thousand. The public buildings are a Catholic church and a Protestant church, with bar- racks, stores, and other buildings occupied by the go- vernment, In the immediate vicinity of this town is a seat occupied by the Governor General of Canada during the summer months. At the town, the river is about two hundred and fifty yards broad ; and opposite is the site of an old fort caUed William Henry, built by the French in 1665. The river Sorel is the channel bv which the superfluous waters of Lake Champlain are discharged into the St. Lawrence. The historv of Lake Champlain and Sorel comprises many interesting events associated with the French and revolutionary wars. Steam boats always stop here, either with or for passengers. About seven in the evening we left Sorel, and, by twelve at night, we reached Three Rivers. Thursday, Mh , — By six o’clock this morning we passed the Richelieu Rapids ; after which the prospect is limi- ted by the stupendous banks of the St. Lawrence till a little past the mouth of the Chaudiere river, when the towers and citadel of Quebec open to view ; and, about ten o’clock, we arrived at M'Callam's WTiarf, after a passage of twenty-two hours ; but the do^vn- ward passage is frequently accomplished in eighteen hours, when little or no stop is made by the way. THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 245 The population of Lower Canada is principally set- tled along the banks of the St. Lawrence. Nearly the whole distance from Montreal to Quebec exhibits a cul- tivated track, extending about a mile back from the shores, bounded by thick forests, and studded by the numerous white dwellings, of which there is generally a cluster erected in the vicinity of a church. The scenery of the St. Lawrence is occasionally relieved by the prospect of the distant mountains rising in the back ground of the cultivated vales, along the borders of the river, which give an additional degree of beauty to many of the otherwise attractive landscapes. After returning to this city, the first thing deserving notice was the lateness of the crops, in comparison of those of Upper Canada. Montreal is about two weeks later than the York and Niagara districts at the upper end of Lake Ontario, and Quebec is one week later than Montreal, which is usually the case, and amply verified this year. QUEBEC RACES. The races commenced on Wednesday the 17 th Au- gust, and continued on the Thursday and Saturday fol- lowing. The race ground is a beautiful field of con- siderable extent, and enclosed by a wooden fence. There is a large stage commanding a fine view of the course, erected for the accommodation of ladies and gentlemen, and also of the visitors, the seats of which are let at half a dollar each per day. The races were very pretty, and both numerously and fashionably at- tended. The field appropriated for the race course is on the Plains of Abraham, on which the celebrated Y 246 JOURNAL OP A TOUR battle of Quebec was fought. It is situated on the w'est bank of the St. Lawrence, about two miles south-west from the gate of St. Louis. The visitor at present sees the plains clothed in all the verdure of summer, without a single memorial to transmit to posterity the heroic achievements which were performed here ; yet, when he casts his eye over this classic spot, the mind will re- cur with lively sensation to the mighty actions which have made this a scene of interest to the admirers of martial bravery and military valour. In the year 1759, General Wolfe was entrusted with command for the reduction of Quebec ; and, on the 31st July, the same year, he arrived in the St. Lawrence. He found the city strongly garrisoned by French troops, under the command of the Marquis de Montcalm; which, together with the natural defences of the place, strength- ened by the artificial fortifications, left little hope of a successful attack, without enticing the French com- mander to meet him with troops without the walls. For this purpose, the British army were encamped at Point Levi, and afterwards on the east side of Mont- morenci. The French army then encamped on the west of the falls, and drove the British from their sta- tion with considerable loss ; after which, they resumed their former position at Point Levi. This took place in the beginning of September ; and, a few days after, the British troops were again embarked on board the transport ships, and conveyed up the St. Lawrence about nine miles above the city. About one o’clock, on the morning of the 13th September, the troops were put into boats, and ordered to fall silentlv down the river to the cove above Cape Diamond, and thus to gain the heights of Abraham. The upper end of the cove was the intended place of debarkation, but, owing to THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 247 the rapidity of the current, they were carried a little below the centre. A movement at the same time was made, for the purpose of deception, with some of the ships in the river opposite the cove, which attracted the attention of the French sentinels, but the important flotilla passed unobserved by them, and gained a landing. The debarkation took place about half-past three in the morning. The precipice is about two hundred feet in height, with projections of rocks and trees, appearing almost inaccessible. As fast as the troops landed, they essayed to gain the heights ; and the general led the way through a narrow path winding obliquely up the precipice, of which, with the assistance of shrubs and stumps of trees, he and his army were enabled to gain the summit. Here, on the plains of Abraham, by half- past five in the morning, the whole of that part of the army which was to be engaged in the business of the day was formed in line of battle, in readiness to meet the enemy. As soon as general Montcalm received information that the British army had possession of the heights, he broke up his camp at Beauport, crossed the St, Charles river, and about ten o’clock commenced the attack. After a desperate struggle of about two hours, in which both commanders had been mortally wounded, the French gave way, and left the field in possession of the British. General Wolfe was wounded in the early part of the engagement by a bullet in the wrist, and afterwards received a severe wound in the head, but still he main- tained his commanding position till near the close of the conflict, when a ball pierced his breast. When he received his third and mortal wound, he was immediately caught in the arms of his aide-de-camp, who bore the dying hero to his rock. He survived for some minutes. 248 JOURNAL OF A TOUR in great anxiety for the fate of the battle, till he heard his army shout for victory, when he exclaimed, — “ I die happy,’’ and then expired without a struggle. The piece of loose rock on which Wolfe expired lies betwixt the race ground and the first Martello tower ; and strangers desirous of viewing this spot must be accom- panied by a citizen. Thus, the plains of Abraham, from the magnitude of the events which took place upon them, and their connexion with one of the brightest pages of British history, will continue to be viewed by many with sedulous attention. MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. During my second stay at Quebec, I happened to be in company with several commanders of British vessels, and from them learned various particuleirs respecting the ordinary fare allowed to cabin passengers. And it is easily learned from emigrants, considering that there is such an influx of them here, what is the manner in which they have been treated, and also the rate of trans- portation from the principal ports of Britain. Cabin passengers generally have breakfast served up between eight and nine, dinner at noon, and supper about seven in the evening. A breakfast usually con- sists of tea and coffee, cold meat, bread, butter, and either fish or eggs. On board well-regulated ships, there are regular changes for dinner. For example, on Mondays and Thursdays let there be Scotch broth or other soup, roast beef, cold meat, and potatoes ; on Tuesdays and Fridays, pease soup, roast pork, cold meat, and potatoes ; on Wednesdays and Saturdays, potatoe soup, fowls or roast mutton, ham, and potatoes ; THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 249 on Sabbath, either sea pie or beef steaks, with cold meat, ham, and potatoes. Supper generally consists of tea, various kinds of cold meat, with bread and butter. Now, on board some ships, the dinner is uniformly the same during the voyage ; but, when there is an agreeable change, it is a great advantage to passengers for both health and comfort ; as, on a long sea voyage, always dining without a change must set even the most ferocious appetite. For drink, there is either a tumbler of porter or a glass of spirits allowed at dinner every day, and, on board some of the genteelest ships, wine besides. A glass of liquor is generally allowed between breakfast and dinner, either gin, wine, rum, or brandy, according to the various tastes of the guests ; also the same in the afternoon ; and sick passengers confined to bed are allowed a glass of either spirits or wine at any time they can take it. Steerage passengers taking the ship’s provisions, generally have porridge and molasses for breakfast ; broth, beef, and potatoes for dinner ; and porridge and molasses for supper ; with plenty of common ship bread at each meal. On board some ships there is some change for dinner, but, of course, less considerable than in the cabin. In regard to those who are to take provisions with them, each must judge for himself what kind he will prefer, and what quantity he will likely require per week. However, each passenger ought to lay in eight weeks’ provisions for the spring voyage, and for ten weeks in the fall, at least. If the stock is not all re- quired on account of a short voyage, so much the better ; but all ought to bear in mind, that famine at sea is a very serious occurrence. Should any unacquainted with marine excursions think this statement for provisions \ 3 250 JOURNAL OP A TOUR too much, I need only mention, that, on the 7th Sep- tember, the brig Wellington, Dodds, arrived here from Dublin with one hundred and twenty-six settlers, after a passage of ninety-four days ; and same day, the bark Manchester, Walker, from Hull, with seventy-eight settlers, after a passage of ninety-eight days ; and se- veral others from British ports, after passages of from ten to twelve weeks, which will be sufficient to justifv’ the statement as very moderate. It is very common, and, in my opinion, very proper, for every passenger, ^hether in the cabin or steerage, to have some sea stock of his own. It may consist of a gallon of either spirits or wine, or part of both, two or three dozens of oranges, two or three pounds of jelly, a few pounds of dried fruit, half a pound of Epsom salts, half a pound of cream of tartar, a box of stomach pills, a dozen boxes of Seidlitz powders, and a two- dozen box of soda powders. These, together with any other little articles the passenger may think fit, will compose a small sea stock. The fare of transportation diflbrs at various ports, and even on difierent vessels at the same port. A cabin passage from Ireland is generally about seven pounds, and a steerage passage without victuals, two pounds. A cabin passage from London and Liverpool, in some of the fine ships, fitted up with superior accommodation, is £15 ; and the steerage, £4, without provisions. The usual fare from Greenock is £7 in the cabin, £3 in the steerage when found, and £3 without victuals. The rate of cabin fare from the east coast of Scotland va- ries from £7 to £l0, but £8 appears to be most com- mon ; the steerage, with victuals, from £5 to £6 ; and £3 to each using his own provisions. Each passenger finding his own provisions is allowed water and fire to THROUGH BRITISH AMERICi\. 251 cook with ; but each generally must find his own bedding, whether in the steerage or cabin. When a shipmaster en- gages to take passengers to a certain port, and lands them at another, they can have recourse upon him for the ba- lance required to transport them to the place of their engagement. In case of his non-compliance, they may still have redress, by applying at the custom house of the port they are landed at. It has sometimes been a just complaint with passengers, that they have been called from their homes in the country a week, and sometimes more, before the ship sailed ; and, by this means, were obliged to live at inns, exhausting the little money which perhaps was to take them to the place of their destination after they arrived on the shores of America. It would therefore be proper for steerage passengers to make it in their bargain, to be received on board the ship when they are called to the port of sailing from, and that the ship shall be their permanent abode till they arrive at the port of destination in Ame- rica. I do not wish to be understood as advising passengers to throw away money unnecessarily on their passage, but I think it highly proper that each should look out for a well-recommended commander, and, when such is found, not to part with him for the sake of a trifle of more money. Some purpose to cross the Atlantic with whomsoever will take them cheapest ; which, I allow, is an economical, but I certainly think is a very impru- dent plan. These fancy the time will soon be past, and if any thing can be saved, all is well ; but they should bear in mind, that, if they are made unhappy every day of the voyage by the bombast and random conduct of a commander, the time will in all probability appear very long indeed ! During my stay here, many thousands 252 JOURNAL OF A TOUR of settlers have arrived at this port, several hundreds of whom I have been eye witness to the landing* of. Those who had a good and agreeable passage came on shore with peculiar vivacity, their looks expressive of their inward gratification, of having comfortably arrived at the port of destination. But those who had been less fortunate, by their haggard countenances declared a different tale ; such as had suffered a long uncomfortable sea voyage, and the want of either food or water, or such like calamity, were so enfeebled, that they were scarcely able to walk when landed on the wharfs. The squalid appearance of these usually attracts observation from those around ; and, when they begin their tale of woe, are even listened to wfith attention by the careless by-standers. Now, when such calamities can be eluded by care and prudence, it is very proper to do it ; and, when misfortune cannot be prevented, one has the con- solatory reflection of having done his duty ; in which case, sympathy may drop a tear, and benignitv" open her hand where wanted. During a stay of above two months at this large sea port, different distressing occurrences came under my observation, both bv pas- sengers themselves and the public papers, the cause of which was not entirely owing to wind or weather ; — so it is not without reason that I advise passengers, in crossing the Atlantic, to pay some attention to the se- lection of a sober staid commander ; as their comfort will in a great measure depend upon him, whatever kind the weather may happen to be. Careful commanders will be found at almost every port ; and it is a great pity that there are any other. Now, from motives of philanthropy, otherwise the most disinterested, I beg leave to mention, for the sake of ray own friends and acquaintances, that Mr. Ander- THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 253 son, of the Quebec Packet, and Mr, Anderson, jun» of the Annandale, belonging to Aberdeen, and regular traders to Quebec, are both spoken of in the highest terms of commendation by the settlers they have brought out at different periods ; and passengers who have crossed the Atlantic with a master are best able to judge of his conduct. It may not be deemed unworthy of notice to observe, that emigrants sometimes bring out very heavy baggage, such as large trunks, chests of drawers, and sometimes a favourite chair or table. This may do very well with settlers going little or no farther than the sea port of landing ; but, when going to the Upper Province, these articles are costly for carriage. Besides, during my stay at Cobourg, Upper Canada, I went frequently to the wharf when a steamer arrived in the bay, and have seen several chests of drawers belonging to emigrants landed there, but all seriously damaged ; and, among the chairs and tables which were daily arriving, I did not observe one brought on shore without being broken, and frequently in half a dozen of pieces. This breakage is occasioned by the bustle and carlessness of shifting luggage off and on boats and wharfs, which unavoidably occur on the passage to the Upper Province ; so that it is only strong trunks which are able to stand out the fatigue of that voyage. This being the case, money will be much easier to take charge of than luggage, and these necessary articles can always be had when wanted, according to the fashion of the country. CURRENCY. The currency of British America is equal to eighteen 254 JOURNAL OP A TOUR shillings and fourpence sterling. But British gold and silver coins differ a little in value in the different pro- vinces. British sovereigns are received at the Quebec Bank, or otherwise in Lower Canada, for twenty-three shillings currency, and in Upper Canada for twenty- three shillings and sixpence ; but a table will be more illustrative. Thus Low. Canada. s. d. Up. Canada. s. d. 1 Guinea, equal to, 2.3 3 equal to, 23 9 1 Sovereign, ,, 23 It 23 6 1 Crown, „ 5 6 tt 6 1 Half-crown, „ 2 9 tt 3 1 Shilling, » 1 1 1 2 Copper coins, of every size, age, and description, pass for a halfpenny each. In the provinces of Nova Sco- tia and New Brunswick, a British shilling passes for fifteenpence currency, but other coins much the same as in Canada. A dollar is the same value in the Union as in British America, but their shillings are very different. It re- quires eight shillings York to make a dollar, but only five shillings Canada currency ; consequently, seven- pence halfpenny of Canada currency is equal to one shilling York. The copper coin of the States is called cents, and passes in Canada the same as other coppers for a halfpenny each ; but, in the States, a cent is of more value. The proportion runs thus : — York Currency. Canada Currency. 12^ Cents, equal to Is. equal to T^d. 25 „ 2s. or ^ Dollar, „ 15d. or Dollar. 50 „ 4s. or i Dollar, ,, 2s. 6d. or Dollar. 100 „ ^s. or 1 Dollar, ,, 5s. or 1 Dollar. This tabulary statement will show, that an American cent in its own country is not of equal value to a penny THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 255 Canada currency ; as one hundred cents American are only equal to sixty pence, or one hundred and twenty coppers of Canada, each making one dollar. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. During my stay in Canada, I observed that in the towns and villages a stranger soon gets acquainted ; as the people in general appear more confiding than in the mother country. In the towns there are always young masters and misses whose authority at home extends to an invitation to dinner or supper, and these bon vivants require a boon companion ; so a young man whose accomplishments and dispositions are calculated to please may soon acquire a circle of very agreeable acquaint- ances. The sociality which is to be seen here in genteel parties is frequently observed by strangers, as they show a greater willingness to please and to render their com- pany agreeable to each other than is usually to be met with in Britain. In this country, when young ladies or gentlemen are in company, if they are asked to sing, play music, or dance, they presently reply, ""with plea- sure,” and actually show by their manner that they take pleasure in pleasing the company. Whereas in Britain, it is sometimes a difficult task to get a song or a tune from some of our young masters or misses, as they have frequently got so many flimsy flippant excuses to go over before commencing, which is a bad prelude. It has already been observed, that there are nume- rous orchards at Montreal, and all through the settle- ments in the Upper Province. However, at Quebec there are none, as orchard trees do not thrive here when 256 JOURNAL OP A TOUR planted. But garden stuffs grow profusely here, and in all the lower provinces, although not equal to Upper Canada. However, at Quebec there is abundance of orchard fruit and cider brought from Montreal and the Upper Province ; and these articles are frequently ex- ported from Quebec to the provinces of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. Settlers here employed at their own work frequently labour in summer from sunrise to sunset, but the usual time for labourers and tradesmen over the lower pro- vinces is from six to six, including a breakfast and a dinner hour ; and it is also expected, that, in the course of a short time, the same arrangement will be made in the Upper Province. There are no mosquitoes in the towns and villages here, although some people in the old country fancy so. These insects frequent the forests, and are usually more troublesome about new dwellings than any where else, till some considerable clearances be made around. But the black house flies are numerous and troublesome in both town and country, during four months in summer. Even in parlours and dining-rooms, there is scarcely such a thing as getting a cup of tea without some of these insects choosing to refresh themselves therein : but, as the bath is generally too hot for their constitu- tion, they seldom find their way out again, but remain at the surface with outstretched wings, like so many useless oars floating on the bosom of an expanded lake, while a dozen or two choose their walk around the edge of one’s plate, and, if possible, have a taste of every dish presented at table. Monday, Sept. I2th , — This afternoon, the new steam boat, John Bull, arrived from Montreal, where she was built, and is an object of general attention and admira- THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 257 tion. It is universally admitted here by all who have seen her, that for splendour, comfort, utility, and ele- gance of arrangements, she forms altogether a specimen of marine architecture, so magnificent as to surpass every other steam boat on the St. Lawrence. Upon reaching the wharf at which she is at present lying, the spectator is presented with the view of a vessel in length about equal to a seventy-four gun ship of the line ; and, indeed, the gun-streak is painted to represent the upper deck port-holes of a vessel of that force. But when the eye is cast on the other parts, the round-house deck, the paddle wings, the four chim- neys of the boilers, the cabins and cooking apartments, she presents the appearance of a moving hamlet covered with a canopy. And, if the visitor shall take into the prospect, the great beams of the engines, with their multifarious appendages, he is presented with a scene which a century ago would have been readily fancied the work of a magician, as a Chef d' oeuvre, by which Pacelot’s far-famed wooden horse is far outdone. “ Immediately upon going on board, the eye is pre- sented with a spacious passage, leading from the fore deck abaft towards the cabins, of about one hundred feet long, towards the centre of which are cabin win- dows, guarded by handsome palisadings and hand-rails. This capacious alley will afford a pleasant promenade for passengers in rainy weather, as it is entirely covered over by the round-house deck. At the extremity is the entrance to the ladies’ cabin, which is an elegant specimen of naval architecture. It presents to the eye the appearance of a wainscotted drawing-room, fur- nished with handsomely ornamented chairs in imitation of rosewood, with a loo table and couches to match. The whole of this cabin consists of frame work and z 258 JOURNAL OF A TOUR pannels, the former painted in imitation of rosewood^ and the latter a light shade ; which, with the crimson drapery of the windows, has a beautiful and pleasing relief. All the berths belonging to this cabin are con- tained in state-rooms, which adds greatly to the comfort and elegance of the apartment. At the egress from the ladies’ cabin, a grand stair- case descends to the gentlemen’s cabin. This spacious apartment is about one hundred feet long by thirt\’ broad, and has all the berths except twelve enclosed in state-rooms resembling the ladies* cabin. The dining table of this cabin is ninety-four long, of solid mahogany, and finished in a fashionable style of workmanship. There are also two splendid sideboards, and a full com- plement of chairs of a beautiful pattern. The cabins and state-rooms are all handsomely carpeted, and fitted up to accommodate above ninet}’ passengers with berths. The united force of the two engines is at least three hundred horse power. There are four boilers, two of which are twenty-two feet long, twelve feet wide, and seven feet high ; the other two are twenty-two feet long, eight feet four inches wide, and seven feet high. The following dimensions of this extraordinary vessel will, it is presumed, establish her claim to superiority’ in point of magnitude, over any steam boat in North or South America. And, indeed, with the exception of the large steam boat built two years ago at Amsterdam, it is believed that the John Bull is the largest steam boat in the world. Ft. In. “ Breadth of beam, 3^ S “ Breadth, including the wings, 70 “ Breadth of each paddle wheel, ^ 16 “ Depth of hold, 12 Draught of 7 9 THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 259 This extraordinary and magnificent marine structure is one of the many specimens to be seen in Canada, which plainly show that the colonists in America shine in all the arts and sciences, equal to some of the oldest nations in Europe. The province of Lower Canada is governed in a man- ner similar to the rest of the provinces in British North America ; hut, being more populous, the representatives are more numerous. The present Administrator is His Excellency Matthew Whithworth Aylmer, Lord Aylmer of Balrath, Lieutenant General and Commander of all His Majesty’s Forces in the provinces of Lower Canada, Upper Canada, Nova Scotia, and New Bruns- wick, Prince Edward’s Island, &c. &c. and Administra- tor of the Government of Lower Canada. The legisla- tive council consists of twenty-six members ; the house of assembly, of eighty-four members ; and the executive council, of eight members. When Canada was annexed to the British Empire, the Upper Province was not set- tled, and at that time it was called the Upper Country. The first settlements were commenced in 1783. In 1784, the city of Kingston, on Lake Ontario, was begun by the British, and in 1791, the upper county was erected into a separate province, called Upper Ca- nada. Although not quite fifty years have elapsed, yet this province exhibits many of the embellishments inci- dent to a numerous population and successful improve- ments. The tour from Quebec to the south extremity of the Upper Province is very delightful. The beauti- ful islands in the river and lakes, the perpetually vary- ing scenery along the shores, agi*eeably diversified with smiling fields and flourishing villages, together with the majestic St. Lawrence, which here rushes with the ra- pidity of a cascade, and there reposes in the stillness of 260 JOURNAL OP A TOUR an expanded lake, present a succession of picturesque scenery in all its charms, which affords a rich banquet to every admirer of the beauties of nature. The facility of travelling by steam boats is also very enticing, as they are all furnished with every accommo- dation needful for the comfort of passengers, and the commanders are gentlemanly men, and bestow a careful attention on their guests. I am sorry to say, that I cannot bestow such commendation on coaching, for the roads are generally rough, and, in my opinion, the coach- men are no better ; so, with the exception of the stage betwixt Montreal and Lachine, all the rest of the coach- men, so far as I went, were a set of swaggering, swear- ing, whip-cracking Jehus. However, the arrangement of servants having their salaries from their masters, is very agreeable to travellers. The latter are charged what they have to pay all in one sum, so that they have nothing to pay coachmen and waiters or such small deer in this country. It will be easily understood by those acquainted with the geographical position of the places, that the winter is milder and shorter in the south extremity of Upper Canada, than at Quebec or any other place in Lower Canada. The winter frequently commences three or four weeks sooner, and continues as much longer at Quebec, than it does about the head of Lake Ontario, and along the shores of Lake Erie, the severity of win- ter gradually declining from the mouth of the St. Law- rence to the peninsula. In regard of the best season for emigrating to Ame- rica, the people of Britain and those in this country seem to entertain different opinions ; for all those in this country, with whom I conversed upon that subject, were of opinion that the fall is the fittest season. How- THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 261 ever, the people in Britain generally think otherwise, and appear to consider the spring as the best time, be- cause they expect to do a great deal of work in sum- mer ; without ever passing a thought that perhaps the climate may not agree with their health, and thereby subject many of them to invalidity the whole summer over. When settlers emigrate from Britain to Ameri- ca in the spring, they generally experience rough wea- ther upon the Atlantic, and very cold unpleasant wea- ther about the banks and the gulf ; so that, when they arrive on the shores of America, many of them are en- feebled by the discomforts of an unpleasant sea voyage. The hot weather immediately sets in, which, with the change of food, creates an oppressive thirst, which con- strains them to drink of the water, although aware that it is unfriendly to the constitution of foreigners. Be- sides, at hotels and other boarding houses, there is flesh meat at every meal, and during the heat of summer, the butcher meat is always soft and flabby, and when served up at table, is so red, so rare, and so racy, that settlers from Britain seldom relish it for the first sum- mer ; so there are hundreds who arrive here in the spring, that do not entirely recover the lassitude of the sea voyage till they receive the more pure and bracing air of September or October. Now, settlers arriving in the fall, scarcely experience any of the inconveniencies alluded to. The passage across the Atlantic is generally much more agreeable, although perhaps a litle longer ; and by the time they arrive on the American shores in the month of September, the sultry heat of summer has gone by. At this season, butcher meat begins to resume its proper firmness ; or- chard fruit becomes abundant, which being luscious and juicv, is an excellent substitute for drink ; and, in Octo- z 3 262 JOURNAL OP A TOUR ber, new cider becomes common, which is a delicious beverage, so that settlers arriving in the fall, have com- paratively little or no occasion to drink water to endan- ger their health. The harvest in this country is chiefly in August, and about the end of this month, the heat of summer begins to decline. September is usually very temperate, be- ing neither too hot nor too cold ; and, during the months of October and November, the weather is generally mild and agreeable, so that the inhabitants call this the Indian summer, and it is sometimes near the end of December before the falls of snow and severe frost take place. This shows, that there is generally time for set- tlers arriving in September, to erect dwellings and make the necessary preparations for winter, before it arrives. Moreover, many of the inhabitants say, that they feel more healthy in winter than in summer, and that, after residing here for a dozen of years, they find the winters not so severe as is usually anticipated in Britain. Besides, wood, which is universally used in this country for fuel, makes an excellent fire, and is al- so very cheap to farmers, as they can cut and take home firewood when nothing can be done at farming. Now, when it is taken into consideration, that settlers arriving in the fall have no great chance of suflering from heat, and that the winter is allowed to be a more healthy season than the summer, certainly those arriving in the fall have the best chance of keeping their health when they enter the country^ ; and the constitution becomes familiarized to the food and to the climate before the heat of the. following summer : consequently, it is the opinion of many who have emigrated to this country years ago, that the fall is the best season for THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 263 settlers to emigrate from Britaia to America, an opinion in which I perfectly concur. Gentlemen strangers visiting Quebec are informed, that the Albion Hotel, Palace Street, is the head inn of the city at present ; terms, ten dollars per week. But there are various other boarding houses where visitors may be very comfortable, and where the terms are from five to seven dollars per week ; such as Mailhot's Hotel, St. John Street ; Castle Hotel, St. Louis Street, both in the Upper Town ; and the Union Hotel, St. Peter Street, Lower Town. Saturday, Sept. \lth. — At four in the afternoon, I embarked on board the Royal William, bound for the river Miramichi. This vessel is a steam ship, established as a regular trader betwixt Quebec and Halifax, and touches at Miramichi and Pictou both ways. Passage fare from Quebec to Halifax — cabin, £6, IO 5 . ; steerage, £4 ; — from Quebec to Miramichi — cabin, £4, 10^. ; steerage, £2, 55. ; victuals included. The passage fare from Quebec to Miramichi on board the small schooners (which are the only other trading vessels betwixt these two ports) is £1, IO 5 ., each passenger afibrding his own provisions ; and the time required is frequently three weeks. On Sunday and Monday we saw a great many vessels in the river, all upward bound ; and, about sunset, on Monday evening, we reached Cape Gaspe ; and, at the same time on Tuesday night, we reached the mouth of the Miramichi river, where it was found ne- cessary to anchor till daylight. Point Escuminac, which is the south point of land at the entrance of this river, is about one hundred and thirty miles from Cape Gaspe, at the mouth of the St. Lawrence. Oak Point, on the north side of the Miramichi river, and Point Escuminac, on the south, are both low points of land, so much 264 JOURNAL OF A TOUR SO, that, when viewed from vessels entering or de- parting from the river, the trees appear standing on the water, and resemble an army arranged rank and file. Wednesday, 2\st . — At five o’clock this morning the vessel weighed anchor, and immediately proceeded up the river. The dwellings along the banks of the river are not painted or white- washed, like the cheerful dwellings gdong the St. Lawrence and other parts of Canada. The burnt woods in the rear resemble immense forests of masts ; the trees are now blanched from black to a dull grey, similar to the weather-beaten dwellings of the inhabitants, and unite to give this settlement a dreary aspect. A little past noon we arrived at New- castle, which is thirty- six miles up the river ; and large vessels cannot proceed farther. MIRAMICHI, NEW BRUNSWICK. After a stay of two hours, the Royal William left Newcastle for the village of Chatham, six miles down the river. Tliese are the only two places which this vessel touches at in the settlement, and I chose the latter for the place of my debarkation. This settlement is situated in the province of New Brunswick, on the east coast, along both sides of the river Miramichi, which flows in an easterly direction, and enters the ocean at Point Escuminac, lat. 47^ o 2", long. 64° 54' 4". This province was originally included in Nova Scotia, and, during the French wars on this continent, was taken and retaken by them ; but, since the French lost all footing in America, this part of the THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 265 country has remained in possession of the British, Miramichi began to be settled forty-eight years ago ; and one of the original settlers is still alive. He arrived towards the end of the summer, 1783 ; and, at that period, there were only six settlers in the place. In 1784, New Brunswick was erected into a province, separate from Nova Scotia, of which Frederick Town is the capital and the seat of the provincial parliament. Nova Scotia now includes the peninsula, and Halifax is the capital. New Brunswick forms the rest of the main land east of the river St. Croix, which falls into the Bay of Fundy, lat. 45°, long. 67°. The present Administrator of this province is His Excellency, Major General Sir Howard Douglas, Bart. Lieutenant Governor and Commander in Chief. The Governor of Nova Scotia is His Excellency, Sir Pere- grine Maitland, K. C. B. Lieutenant Governor and Commander in Chief. For some years after the settle- ment of Miramichi commenced, there was no church, school, store, or tavern ; and, at that time, wages and provisions of every kind were very high ; and, indeed, all these are rather higher at the present day than in any settlement I have visited in Canada. At the beginning of the settlement, two small schoon- ers from Halifax visited this port once in summer, with provisions for the inhabitants, and this was all their shipping trade for some years ; but, in course of time, when the settlers increased, their lumber trade became very considerable, and, for these twenty years past, has extended their commerce to almost every port in Britain. The country is now thickly settled along the banks of the river, for above fifty miles, besides containing five villages, of which Newcastle ranks the first. It is plea- santly situated on the north bank of the river, where it 266 JOURNAL OP A TOUR commands a fine view of the settlement and river for some miles below, and particularly the embryo village of Nelson on the opposite shore. Newcastle was burnt in the general conflagration of 1825, and has since been built anew. It is by no means admirable for the plan on which it is laid out, but it contains several white painted frame buildings, which look very pretty. The most perspicuous object in every point of view, is the Presbyterian church, dedicated to St. James. This edifice, for graceful and elegant architecture, has not a superior in the province. In all the arrangements, both within and without, there is an elegance of design, which is finished in a masterly style. The vestibule is a handsome specimen of the modern, agreeably harmo- nized with Grecian pillars in alto relievo. The edifice is surmounted with an elegant spire, which comprises a fine union of the Doric, Tuscan, and Ionic. The walls are painted snow white, and the whole of the fabric has a grateful and pleasing appearance, especially when viewed from vessels arriving in port. There is a Me- thodist chapel here, capable of containing upwards of two hundred persons, also a jail and the court-house of the county. Nelson is a hamlet on the south shore, opposite New- castle. It contains a few dwellings, and a Roman Ca- tholic church, a handsome building capable of contain- ing eight hundred persons. About thi*ee miles down the river, there is the Episcopal church of St. Paul’s. This is a handsome and well finished structure, of the Gothic order, ornamented with a wrought tower and castellated turrets. The village of Chatham is situated on the south side of the river, about six miles below Newcastle. At the east end of this village is a Presbyterian church, dedi- THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 267 cated to St. Andrew, a small but neat edifice, surmounted by a small spire, with an inserted belfry. There is also a Methodist chapel, sufficiently capacious to con- tain upwards of six hundred persons. The building is neat and well aiTanged, and has a fine portico embel- lished with Grecian pillars, which encloses a double vestibule. Chatham contained only three dwelling houses sixteen years ago ; but, during my stay here, I counted from a ship in the river one hundred and three dwellings, besides various other buildings. This village is exceedingly ill laid out, both for elegance and convenience. The buildings stand along both sides of a very crooked road, without the least appearance of order or regularity. Douglas Town is a small village, seated on the north bank of the river, about two miles above Chatham. It was burnt in the general conflagration of 1825, and has since been rebuilt. This village is only about half the size of Chatham, but has a more cheerful appearance. It contains stores, tradesmen's shops, and the dwellings of the inhabitants, but no place of public worship. The most conspicuous building heie is a fine new edifice for a marine hospital, finished this fall. Baie des Vents Village, situated near the mouth of the river, contains three small places of public worship, namely, a Catholic church, an Episcopal church, and a Presbyterian church. Besides the above-mentioned nine, there are other five places of public worship, in all fourteen, within the space of thirty-six miles ; and what does great credit to the settlers is, that all these churches were erected by voluntary subscriptions. In the settlement there are numerous schools, stores, taverns, also grist and saw mills, and mechanics of 268 JOURNAL OF A TOUR almost every description. At Chatham there is a post office, a reading room, and a printing office, which issues a newspaper every Tuesday, entitled The Gleaner. There is also a weekly paper published at Newcastle. The land in this settlement is much inferior to that of Upper Canada. A considerable portion of the soil here consists of yellowish rotten rock, with a small mixture of vegetable mould. However, the high prices of country produce here renders farming equally profi- table as in Upper Canada. At present, wheat is worth about nine shillings per bushel here, and in some of the settlements of Upper Canada it could be purchased for three shillings. But, taking it at an average, grain brings double the price here of what it does in Upper Canada. It has already been observed, that thirt}' bushels of wheat per acre was an ordinar}" return in Upper Canada, but fifteen bushels per acre is considered a fair return at Miramichi ; yet, when' the farmer here obtains double the price at least, he is equally well with the farmer in Upper Canada. White and green crops thrive well here, but there are no orchards, which is a great want. Some of the inhabitants are of opinion, that fruit trees would thrive here, if a careful attention were bestowed upon them ; but, when the fact is taken into consideration, that the land at Quebec does not rear orchard fruit, and is equally good with the land here, and even better, it may readily be supposed, that orchard trees would thrive no better here than there. Horses and cattle bring higher prices here than in either Upper or Lower Canada. Good horses cost about £20 each; cows, from £7 to £10 each; a yoke of oxen, from £20 to £30 ; and sheep, from three to four dol- lars each. Scotch and Irish cured butter sells at one shilling per pound from the stores, and scarcelv anv THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 269 other can be got to purchase here. In the spring, eggs * from the Bird Islands are sold at one shilling per dozen, which is the chief supply of that commodity in this place ; so, when the season arrives, a small schooner or two are despatched thither for a freight of eggs. The inhabitants of this settlement devote their atten- tion chiefly to lumbering and fishing ; consequently, farming is much neglected. The clearances scarcely extend half a mile back from the shores of the river, and even that appears poorly farmed. However, the lumber trade has been much on the decline since the burning of the forests in 1825 ; so, if this continue, the inhabitants will be led to bestow more attention on farming, an object very desirable to be attained ; but, so long as lumbering continued to put money first into their liands for labour, so long it was the principal object of their solicitude. The river abounds with fish, particularly shad and salmon. It is small in comparison of the St. Lawrence, and its waters brown and turbid. It is about one mile broad at Chatham, but contracts towards New- castle, where its breadth does not exceed half a mile ; yet, notwithstanding its narrowness, the waters are brackish above both these places. The curi’ent of the Miramichi is less rapid than that of the St. Lawrence, and the tide rises in a less degree, but with an easterly gale it sometimes rises twelve or fifteen feet. THE FORESTS AND SOIL OF NEW BRUNSWICK. “That the forest growth which clothes the surface of these provinces is not primeval, I am convinced of 2 A 270 JOURNAL OF A TOUR by a number of concurrent circumstances ; and that it has been devastated at intervals, is not only congenial to appearances, but in accordance with the traditions of the Indians, and the relations of the earliest settlers. People are living who can recollect a terrible conflagra- tion which commenced its ravages in Maine, and only ceased its destructive influence at the river St. John, destroying nearly the whole forest between the south- west branch of the Oromucto and the Bay of Fundy. That territory was, until the fire of 1825, overspread with a thick growth of all the difibrent forest trees — the pines of which attained the height of seventy or eight}" feet, with a thickness of above eighteen inches. Around the Grand Lake and the Washademoak, a growth of trees is seen rather larger than those of the track above described, but which clearly shows the efiects of fire upon the soil, not greatly anterior ; and, it is highly probable, that the same fire which desolated the shores of those lakes extended its ravages south-eastward to the Kennebeccasis and upwards on the banks of that river to its sources. Modem visitations of so aw^ful a description are more apparent and more easily traced ; but vestiges of those which occurred in former times are sufliciently distinct to prove, that the most tremen- dous in extent occurred long before the province was settled. But the damage occasioned to the timber, which was the only loss incurred in those times, was of incalculably less value than the consequences of those of late occurrence, w’hich at one fell swoop, and with electrical suddenness, consumed the labours of a life, and closed the existence of many. “ The distribution of the forest is not such as an Englishman, accustomed to the cultivated woods in his own country, might reasonably imagine. Instead of THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 271 being tastefully intermingled in accordance with the reveries of St. Pierre, nature has disposed the growth generally in stripes, ridges, or groves ; the deciduous trees for the most part by themselves, and changing suddenly, often with scarcely a shade of admixture, to an evergreen growth. The great distinguishing deno- minations of wilderness land, as usually understood throughout North America, are hard-wood and soft- wood land, and barren plain. The hard woods are the birches, the maples, oak, ash, beech, and all the deci- duous trees ; the soft woods are the pine, hemlock, spruce, cedar, the larch (though not an evergreen) in- cluded. Barren or Cariboo plains bear on the peat, which is often many feet in depth, a few scattered spruces and creeping cranberries ; and these parts of the country have as yet received no attempts to reclaim the soil. The land which produces the hard woods is generally good, and is brought into cultivation with the least expense ; but both kinds of growth are some- times found intermingled ; and, where the wood is large and thrifty, this soil is known to be the best for the varied purposes of the settler. Land covered with a growth of spruce or pine alone is seldom found to repay the outlay of the farmer. High land, entirely covered with beech, generally proves a gravelly, cold, and hungry soil, and every way less desirable for the settler than many kinds of swamp. Clay generally pre^pminates in a cedar swamp, the closeness of which soil, by oifering to the spring, confers an impermeable bed which affords to that evergreen the moisture it loves. This is not liked by the new settler ; but, if he can afford the outlay of capital necessary for clearing it properly, particularly if the colour of the clay incline to redness, and then turn up the surface to the joint 272 JOURNAL OP A TOUR influences of the summer sun and winds, and the winter frosts and snow, it will be found to repay his labour in a far greater degree than hard-wood upland. ‘'Land of an alluvial origin is generally overspread with a growth of elm, maple, birch, with a few thrifty spruces and firs ; and, where this growth is found, par- ticularly if butternut trees be interspersed, the soil is invariably of the best quality. The elm and the butter- nut delight in the alluvion of rivers, and they seem to be the favourife and almost spontaneous production of that kind of soil ; but, in some parts of the province, particularly on the Butternut ridge, at the head of Washademoak river, and the settlements of Richmond, Jackson Town, and the High Plains, which characterize in so peculiar a manner the right bank of the river St. John. “ A thick growth of alders is the produce of a vege- table soil, the creation of moisture and fermentation, and is highly productive of the natural and artificial grasses ; but the sub- soil is frequently a bed of sand, or some other barren formation. “The alluvion formed by means of salt water is in this province of two kinds. The most extensive, and by far the most valuable, are the clayey formations on the estuaries of the rivers which disembogue into the head of the Bay of Fundy, created solely by the depo- sition of the mud which every returning flood tide bears in solution ; and these hea\w lands have been reclaimed from the dominion of the sea by lengthy and expensive embankments. “ It will be necessary to inform an old countr\Tnan, that the land which he understands by alluvial, or, if he pleases, diluvial, when found on the banks of fresh water rivers and streams, is universally called in Aine- THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 273 vica * intervale / but the marshes washed by salt water retain the same appellation here as those at home. The distinguishing features of the face of this pro- vince are the prevalence, along the shore of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, of an almost perfect level, the only inequalities of which are perceptible on the banks of the rivers and brooks, which have in the course of ages scooped for themselves a deep bed ; but, advancing into the interior, and approaching towards St. John’s river on the west, and the Restigouche on the northern boun- dary, the surface gradually assumes a bolder and more elevated cast. On the isthmus, formed by the Gulf on the east, and Cumberland Basin and the Peticoudiac on the west, there are no elevations deserving notice ; and, in the whole interior, between that river northward to the valley of the Nipisiquid, the inequalities are but inconsiderable undulations ; but, to the southward of the Peticoudiac, the land rises into lofty and rocky acclivities, and is broken into abrupt hollows and deep ravines. Proceeding w’estward from a line joining the mouth of the Anagance, extending through the interior northward to the mouth of the Upsalquitch, advancing across the St. John to the boundary line of Maine, the inequalities are lofty and abrupt, frequently assuming the character of mountains, and the forest presenting in an eminent degree the higher characteristics of soil. Along the shore of the Bay of Fundy, the spruce growth prevails in the woods ; and, indeed, the hard blue rock, which there presents an impassable barrier to the moun- ^ tain wave of the Atlantic, is covered by so little soil, that none but the spruce can derive a nourishment. But, along that line of sterile coast, if the labour of the agriculturist is poorly repaid, nature presents herself to the eve of the astonished traveller in the m«st sublime 2 A 3 s \ 274 JOURNAL OP A TOUR and romantic dress. The Shepody Mountain near the upper extremity of the Bay of Fundy, the white granite- capped heights which enclose the vale of the Nerepis, the rocky ridges which rise in gradations from the bay, extending from the Petticoudiac to the Chiputneticook, the beautiful cascades on Poulet river and the Le Proc, the majestic falls near the city of St. John, and the picturesque scenery on the Maguaguadavic and the St. Croix, can scarcely be surpassed in beauty and grandeur in any country where the exuberance of the natural growth offers a barrier to an extensive prospect. ‘‘ What a splendid bird’s-eye glance, or panoramic view, is seen from the top of a tali pine, standing on high land ! The forest assumes a varied but beautiful appearance, exhibiting, where the evergreens prevail, a deep green tint, and, in the deciduous woods, a lighter colour, variegated with all the different shades of green. A picture of such a scene would present an aspect of admirable beauty, particularly in a part of the country where the surface swells into eminences, and diversify the sameness of the landscape by their oceanic undula- tions. “ The leaves and wood of the evergreens abound with rosin or gum, which renders them so highly inflamma- ble, that, on exposure to the action of fire, the flames immediately ascend to the top of the tree with a roar- ing crackling noise. The moss, dry leaves, and dead wood, which cover the surface of the ground, assisted by the wind, communicate the fire to other trees ; and, if the breeze be violent, no human being can anticipate where the raging element will terminate its violence. But fire seldom commits ravages among the hard wood, owing to the want of materials of a highly inflammable nature to increase its fury ; consequently, so soon as it THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 275 may have passed through a spruce swamp, and arrived at a ridge covered with a deciduous growth, it is sup- posed there is a sufficient obstacle to stop its further progress. But, in the event of a long continued drought having dried every rotten wind-fall into touch-wood, and of the fire being attended with a strong wind, the sparks and ignited bark would be driven through tha hard wood ridge, and, in a few minutes, the next ever- green tract would be in a fearful blaze, destructive of the life and vegetation of every thing within the bounds of its influence ; leaving the trees, and even their limbs standing, but scathed and charred, resembling in many respects a vast collection of masts of merchant vessels in a very large port. Fire will continue to exist in every rotten log or decayed tree, until rain fall in suf- ficient abundance to penetrate into all its recesses, and until that auspicious event, no one residing in its neigh- bourhood considers himself in safety. “ The efiect of fire on the standing timber is so super- ficial that, provided it be cut down and hewed without delay, none but practised eyes can discern the difference between it and that which may have been cut green ; but, after the first succeeding winter, the worm quickly pierces it with holes, and bereaves it of sap, which ren- ders the timber useless. “ Large tracts of burnt* woodland now deform the face of this province ; but, in the course of a few years, they will be covered with an almost impenetrable thick forest of young trees. On the Tobique, in 1821, an ex- tensive district was devastated by fire ; and, the same year, a considerable space on the eastern bank of the Etienne, with a large saw-mill on Savoy^s river, was consumed. But all former fires did inconsiderable da- mage, when put in competition with those awful visita- 276 JOURNAL OF A TOUR tions which were experienced here in 1825, not only as respects the loss of standing timber, but that which is of greater importance, the destruction of property in buildings, goods, implements, fences, wooden bridges, and, what is still more serious — of human life. That year was distinguished for an extraordinary drought, no rain having fallen between the middle of June and the middle of October. The woods in most parishes were on fire, and great damage was done in the forests, on the highways, and 'on the clearances in different parts of the province. In July, the woods were so extensively on flames, that travelling on roads was attended with great danger. But the 7th October was the fatal day, on which, in the book of destiny, was traced the climax of desolation to the inhabitants of this province. “ Commencing in the county of Charlotte, on the left bank of the Maguaguadavic, embracing both sides of the Piskehagan, sweeping over the rocky heights to the sources of the south-west branch of theOromucto, and descending that river to near its confluence with the St. John, the fire can be traced in a broad and drearv zone, extending in breadth on the right bank of the river to- wards the mountains bounding the Black Creek. “ Great destruction was made in the beautiful and flourishing settlements which adorn the intervales on that branch and the creek, and among the more de- tached clearances on the deep and placid stream of the Oromucto, but without inflicting any of those painful bereavements with which the people of Miramichi were the same evening afflicted. The demon of destruction then leaped upon the town of Fredericton, where up- wards of fifty houses and stores were burned, but no lives were lost. (The parliament house, a building THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 277 constructed of wood, ignited in the roof a few days be- fore, and, notwithstanding the utmost possible exer- tions, it was entirely destroyed.) Conflagration then caught the woods about the sources of Burnt-land Brook, which soon extended to the south-west river of Miramichi, and almost instantaneously spread from ri- ver to river, and swept with the speed of the whirl- wind to the north-west branch, and the whole interme- diate forest was at the same instant in one tremendous flame. Urged by the wind, the north-west river pre- sented no obstacle to its irresistible course, but, borne on the wings of the hurricane, with an instantaneous - ness resembling a train of gunpowder, and with the hoarse roar of a volcano, in a few short minutes, the north shore of Miramichi river was swept of the fair villages and dwellings which lined it, as if those vil- lages and dwellings had never been. During a march so rapid, no animal existing in its path had the least chance of escape, unless water in sufficient abundance was near, into which he could occasionally submerge, and, accordingly, in the places which were watered by no rivers, the greatest loss of human life occurred. Having said so much on the efiects of fire on the forest lands of this country, in order to counteract the alarm which an emigrant may thence reasonably enter- tain, it will be necessary to add, that when fire has passed through the woods, it will rage there no more till the land be re-covered with a new growth. The calamity which the inhabitants of this province have experienced in no lenient degree, constitutes, for the present times, the greatest source of their security. “ There is a very surprising phenomenon attending the succession of the young wood ; and that is, in a large track of land comprising many hundred square 278 JOURNAL OP A TOUR miles, which has been desolated by fire, it generally happens that, in the course of two years, young trees shoot up at so vast a distance from living ones of the same species, theit it seems impossible for the winds to waft their seeds so far : consequently, it is almost uni- versally believed in this country, that trees are indige- nous to this soil, and spring up without seminal origin. The kind of growth which often succeeds the hard woods is spruce, pine, hemlock, a bastard species of maple, frequently wild cherr}^ white birch, and sometimes pop- lar ; but, before the fire occurred here, neither a poplar nor a cherry might have been seen for an immense sur- rounding distance. This hypothesis, at the same time, proves the fal- lacy of placing entire dependence on the growth of the forest, as a proof of the quality of the soil, and shows, that it is expedient to tear up the moss, and to examine the quality and depth of vegetable mould, in order to discover the real nature of the soil.” In the course of a few years, the burnt wood which at present disfigures the face of this settlement will be fallen ; the young growth is already eight feet high in many places, so that, w’hen it is farther advanced, and no other to be seen, the aspect of this settlement wdll be very much improved from what it is at present ; and, if the country people would paint their houses white as they do in Canada, that w’ould remove in a great degree the dreary aspect of this part of the country which is so appalling to strangers sailing up the river. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. Some of the old-country people are of opinion, that those who emigrate to America are debarred from the THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 279 privilege of newspapers, news-rooms, and libraries ; but it is necessary to tell them, that this notion pre- vails in Britain from a want of knowledge of the real state of this country, as all these accommodations are doubly numerous in North America of what they are in Britain. But a grave question arises : — Should people emigrate from Britain to America ? To advise people to emigrate from one place to another forms no part of my plan. Every one ought to judge for himself in a matter of such importance. However, that no one may have cause to say that I mean to deceive him, I have sedulously avoided the plan so servilely adopted by settlers in this country, when writing to tHeir friends in Britain, namely, of giving all the advantages of the country in the highest degree, without ever mentioning a single inconvenience. My principal design has been to give the sweets and the sours of the country, as they occurred to my observation, without the least reserve. However, I think it proper to say, that I am of opinion, that every industrious, sober, steady person, has a fair chance of thriving in this country ; and, that such persons generally get into comfortable arid easy circum- stances in a few years’ time, is an undeniable fact. Nevertheless, there are three classes of people who, I am persuaded, will not thrive here, namely, idlers, spendthrifts, and drunkards, and, indeed, I do not know what country these would thrive in ; so I would judge it proper for them to stay where they are, and save themselves the trouble and expense of transportation. To draw up a full detail of the legislature and state of Britain, might be deemed irrelevant in the present publication, so I shall dismiss these topics, after making a few brief observations. In the first place, the national debt of Britain is suf- 280 JOURNAL OF A TOUR ficient to oppress an empire of much greater extent ; secondly, the labourers and tradesmen would get double wages, at least, for their work in America of what they earn in Britain ; and, thirdly, the wealth of the British nation is drained in channels into the coffers of the great folks, as they are called, leaving the labouring class and the agriculturalist frequently without the necessaries of life. All these things are on a very different footing in America. The farmers, who are the freeholders of the country, and the labouring class, all partake of, and have the wealth of the nation among their hands, which does, and must make a very great difference between it and Great Britain in its present condition. I am well aware, that some are expecting, and anxiously looking for important alterations in the British legislature, which are anticipated by many will be productive of great aggrandizement to the agricul- turalist and the labouring class ; but, although I am not so skilled in legislation as to say how much they may be benefited by such alterations as at present are desired, yet I am of opinion, that none of the people who are at present taking notice of these things will survive to see the agricultural and labouring classes in Britain placed on an equal footing with those in America. I must now for a time take farewell of thee, O sweet land of America ! and leave thy fruitful fields and beau- tiful forests, thy thriving villages and cheerful cities ; — But, if many of days be mine, sweet land, As I trust well, they be. Perhaps I may return again, And thenceforth dwell in thee ! Friendship’s bloom may soon pass by. As summer’s flowers depart the field. Our hopes may blight in one short day. And life may not a pleasure yield ; — THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 281 But my love for thee shall not decay, But still look fresh like the rising sun ; And ne’er will 1 cease to think on thee, Till the weary day of life is done. Whether fortune smile or frown, I say. This promise 1 give thee ; Not to forget thee one short day, Sweet land, so fair and free ! VOYAGE FROM MIRAMICHI TO ABERDEEN. Saturday, October 8fA. — This day, at four in the afternoon, I left Douglas Town, and embarked on board the brig, Aberdeenshire, bound for Aberdeen. The vessel rode at anchor in the river, in front of this village, and only a few rods off. When I went on board, it was expected she would be under weigh in the course of half an hour ; but, before the flowing canvas was got spread, the wind shifted, and here we were imprisoned for twenty-four hours. On Sunday afternoon, we got down the river about half a dozen of miles with the tide ; and, on Monday, we got to Nap- pan Bay, which was about half a dozen of miles farther ; and here we rode a tremendous easterly gale, accom- panied with heavy rain. This storm continued from Monday night till Thursday at noon, during which time two schooners were stranded about half a mile above us, and a brig about two miles below. On Thursday afternoon we got a few miles farther down, and, on Friday, by eight in the morning, we reached the mouth of the river, followed by seven other vessels, the farthest off being within two miles, all bound for Britain, and two, besides our own, for the port of Aberdeen, namely, 2 B 282 JOURNAL OP A TOUR the Albion, Leslie, and the Isabella, Simpson. This day we were favoured with a fine north-west breeze, so America soon began to disappear in the distance, and, the east coast of New Brunswick being low land, in a few hours’ time it was lost to us in the dim tracery. Towards night, the Albion and Isabella both got a-head of us, but all the rest were far astern. On Saturday, the three Aberdeen vessels were much in the same position with respect to each other as on the day before, but we required to go aloft to see the rest, they were left so far behind. On Sunday, the 16th, we drew near the Island of Cape Breton, the coast of which has a bold appearance, being very high land, and by ten at night we passed the north-east cape, which was the last of the land we saw on the west side of the Atlantic. Tuesday, 18^A. — Not a single vessel in sight, and no vessel appeared till near the middle of the night on • Saturday, the 5th November, when we passed within call of a ship from the Baltic, bound for the Mediter- ranean. On the day following, a brig stood about six miles south of us, and in the afternoon a flag was hoisted, which was presently answered on the brig, when we found it was the Albion of Aberdeen. Monday, 1th . — This day, at noon, the Islands of Barra and Rona appeared, which was the first land we saw on the east side of the Atlantic ; but at night we encountered a heavy north-east gale, which drove past the Butt of Lewis. On Tuesday morning, the wind shifted to the north ; so with difficulty the vessel crawled past the Butt of Lewis about noon, and by twelve at night steered safely past Cape Wrath. On Wednesday, not a vessel was to be seen. The most conspicuous object was the high mountains along the north coast of Scotland, which showed their high and towering tops THROUGH BRITISH AMERICA. 283 covered with snow ; and, this night, a little before dark, we entered the Pentland Frith, between Dunnet Head and Hoy Isle, just as the stream began to turn ; and, although we were favoured with a good north-west breeze, the force of the current kept the vessel back till near midnight, when the tide turned, and then she went through with great velocity. By ten o’clock on Thurs- day night, we were in sight of Buchanness Lighthouse, and it was now expected that we would reach Aberdeen by daylight, but at that time we were only off Slains Castle. Friday, lUA. — This day, by four in the afternoon, we arrived in the bay of Aberdeen, where the Albion had arrived a few hours before us, and the Isabella was only a few miles off, and reached the bay before dark ; all the three having left the river Miramichi the same hour, and arrived in the bay of Aberdeen the same day, after a passage of four weeks. Notwithstanding the weather being very unsettled, and frequently tempestuous, the voyage has been much more agreeable than my outward passage. There have been no passengers, except a young gentleman from Halifax and myself ; so there has been plenty of room in the cabin at all times. He is very kind and obliging, but not so social as I could wish, being rather reserved, and he is one, in my opinion, of whom the following lines are very descriptive : — O happy man, I envy thee, Cold to joy or woe ; Feeling drowned in apathy, Through life’s path you go. The flush of sensibility, ’Tis ne’er your lot to bear ; The change from mirth to misery, You have no cause to fear. 284 JOURNAL OR A TOUR As to the cabin fare, our table has been furnished with an agreeable change every day ; and our drink, gin, rum, wine, and brandy, at pleasure, and of the very best quality. Indeed, every thing has been con- ducted in so agreeable a manner, that the whole voyage seems shorter to me than one week of the outward passage. In regard to Mr. Oswald, as a shipmaster, at Aber- deen, where he is so well known, it would be quite unnecessary for me to say any thing respecting him ; but, as there are many in the country who know little of one shipmaster more than another, I deem it proper to state, that I have found him a social and gentlemanly man, and in every respect deserving the decided prefe- rence which he has been frequently honoured with. As the Aberdeenshire had to proceed to Dundee with her freight, the other passenger and I were put on shore with a boat ; and, in the evening, just as the town’s clocks chimed eight, I set my feet on the Castle Street of Aberdeen, after an absence of seven month? and seven days. PRICES CURRENT. Cobourg, Upper Canada, April 30, 1831. Beef, per pound, Mutton, per pound, . # Veal, per pound, Butter, fresh, Salt, s. d. s, d, 0 2 a 0 3 0 2 a 0 3 0 2 a 0 3 0 9 0 10 0 7 r? 0 9 CURRENT PRICES. 285 Wheat, per bushel, Barley, per bushel, Pease, per bushel, . Indian Corn, per bushel. Rye, per bushel. Candies, per pound. Hay, per ton. Straw, per ton. Firewood, per cord, Salt, per barrel, s. d. s. d. 5 6 a 0 0 2 6 a 0 0 2 6 a 0 0 2 10 a 3 0 2 9 a 3 0 0 8 a 0 10 40 0 a i 50 0 10 0 a 12 0 5 0 a 6 3 12 6 a 0 0 Cobourgy Upper Canada, July 19 , 1831 . s. d. j. d. Beef, per pound. 0 3 a 0 4 Mutton, per pound, 0 3 a 0 4 Veal, per pound, 0 3 a 0 4 Butter, fresh. 0 7 a 0 8 Wheat, per bushel, 3 9 a 0 0 Barley, per bushel. 2 G a 0 0 Pease, per bushel. 2 6 a 0 0 Oats, per bushel, 1 6 a 0 0 Indian Corn, per bushel. 3 0 a 0 0 Rye, per bushel, . 2 9 a 0 0 Candles, per pound, 0 8 a 0 9 Hay, per ton. 40 0 a 50 0 Straw, per ton. 10 0 a 12 0 Firewood, per cord. 5 0 a 6 3 Salt, per barrel. 12 6 a 0 0 Pork, Prime, per barrel. . 60 0 a 70 0 Prime, Mess, do. 70 0 a 75 0 In the Hog, per cwt. 20 0 a 25 0 Potashes, per cwt. . 25 0 a 0 0 Furs, Beaver, per pound. 20 0 a 25 0 Otter, per skin. 12 0 a 20 0 Martin, 2 6 a 3 3 Mink, 1 0 a If. 3 Red Fox, 2 9 a 3 9 Musk-rat, • 2 B • 0 9 a 1 0 286 PRICES CURRENT s. d. $, d. 2 6 a 15 0 1 0 a 1 3 Skins, Bear, Deer, per pound, Montreal, September 2 , 1831 . ARTICLES IMPORTED. £ 8. d. £ 8. d. Coffee, per lb. 0 0 9 a 0 0 11 Molasses, per gallon. 0 2 6 a 0 2 9 Sugar, Muscovado, per cwt. 1 15 0 a 2 0 0 Loaf, per lb. 0 0 6 a 0 0 7 Rum, Jamaica, 16 0. P. per gallon. 0 3 4 a 0 3 6 Demerara, 0 2 7 a 0 2 8 Lee^rards, 0 2 6 a 0 2 7 Brandy, Cognac, 0 6 0 a 0 7 6 Bourdeaux, 0 4 9 a 0 5 9 Gin, Holland, 0 5 0 a 0 5 3 Canadian, 0 4 0 a 0 0 0 Wine, Madeira, per pipe. 25 0 0 a 75 0 0 Tenerife, 15 0 0 a 46 0 0 Port, 30 0 0 a 50 0 0 Spanish, 12 0 0 a 15 0 0 Tea, Hyson, per lb. 0 5 3 a 0 5 9 Young Hyson, 0 4 0 a 0 5 0 Hyson Skin, 0 2 9 a 0 3 0 Congou, 0 2 9 a 0 3 0 Souchong, 0 3 0 a 0 3 3 Bohea, 0 2 2 a 0 2 6 Pekoe, 0 4 3 a 0 4 6 Twankay, 0 2 10 a 0 3 6 Pimento, 0 0 7 a 0 0 8 Soap, 0 0 4 a 0 0 0 Candles, Mould, 0 0 7 a 0 0 8 Cheese, Cheshire, 0 1 0 a 0 0 0 American, 0 0 4 a 0 0 5 Gunpowder, 0 1 0 a 0 1 1 Pepper, Black, 0 0 4 a 0 0 5 Shot, Partridge, per cwt. 1 2 6 a 1 5 6 Potast Kettles, per cwt. . 1 7 6 a 1 10 0 PRICES CURRENT. 287 £ s. d. £ d. Raisins, Muscatels, per box, 0 11 0 a 0 12 6 Blooms, per box, 0 11 0 a 0 12 0 Ke^, per lb. 0 0 4 a 0 0 0 Casia, per lb. 0 1 3 a 0 1 6 Cloves, 0 2 0 a 0 2 6 Nutmegs, . 0 4 6 a 0 5 6 Cordage, per cwt. 2 10 0 a 2 14 0 Wine Bottles, per gross. 1 0 0 a 1 5 0 COUNTRY PRODUCE. Ashes, Pots, per cwt. 1 12 0 a 1 13 0 Pearls, 1 14 0 a 1 15 0 Beef, Prime, per bbl. 1 16 6 a 1 17 6 Mess, 3 2 0 a 3 5 0 Prime Mess, 2 5 0 a 2 6 0 Cargo, 1 10 0 a 1 12 0 Pork, Prime Mess, 4 10 0 a 0 0 0 Cargo, 2 15 0 a 2 16 0 Prime, 3 0 0 a 3 2 0 Hams, per lb. 0 0 6 a 0 0 8 Salmon, per bbl. 2 10 0 a 2 15 0 Mackarel, 0 17 6 a 0 19 0 Herrings, 0 12 6 a 0 0 0 Tobacco, Up. Can. Leaf, per lb. 0 0 5 a 0 0 0 Manufactured, 0 0 8 a 0 0 9 MARKET PRICES. Beef, per lb. s, 0 d. 2 a s. 0 d. 5 Mutton, per qr. . 2 0 a 6 3 Veal, per qr. , . 1 6 a 10 0 Lamb, per qr. 1 6 a 4 0 Geese, per brace. 3 4 a 4 6 Turkeys, do. . . 2 1 a 6 0 Ducks, do. 2 0 a 2 4 Fowls, do. 2 5 a 3 4 Chickens, do. 1 0 a 1 8 Eggs, per dozen. 0 6 a 0 8 Butter, Fresh, per lb. • 0 9 a 1 0 288 PRICES CURRENT. s. d. s. d. Butter, Salt, .... 0 7 0 8 Maple Sugar, .... o o 5 Flour, per cwt 11 8 /z 14 6 Wheat, per 60 lbs. Upper Canada, 6 4 a 6 9 per minot, Lower Canada, 5 6^5 9 Barley, do 2 \ a 2 3 Oats, do 1 7 fl 1 8 Pease, do. .... 3 4 a 3 c Hay, per 100 bundles of 1600 tbs. 20 0 30 ( Firewood, Maple, per cord. 17 6 22 ( Mixed, per cord, 12 6 17 ( EXCHANGE AT MONTREAL. Government, at 30 days, . 10^ per cent. Bank of Montreal, at 60 days, . 8^ per cent. Private, at 60 days, . . . . 9 to 9^ per cent. EXCH.ANGE AT NEW YORK ON LONDON. Sept 17, Bills on London, at 60 days. • 10 to 10^ per ceni RETAIL PRICES • f. d. s. a Tea, Hyson, per lb. 5 9 a 6 ( Young Hyson, i 6 a 0 ( Souchong, 3 9 a 0 G Bohea, .... 2 G a 2 ( White Sugar, .... 0 7 <7 0 h Brown Sugar, .... o o 5 Brandy, per pint, o o 0 Holland Gin, per pint, 0 10 « 1 0 Jamaica Rum, .... 0 6 « 0 0 Whisky, O o 0 Port Wine, .... 0 10 ff 0 0 is the Prices Current at Quebec are nearly the same as at Montreal, it is considered unnecessary to insert them. U. Cornwall, Printer, 22, Broad Street, Aberdeen I ERRATA. Page Line READ 22. 17. filed open, to keep it from d.Tshing and breaking 40. 19. Cnstom-house officer. 50. 20. In the year 1670, in the reign of Charles II. 01. 25. in the east -wing of the Seviinary. 05. 3. and teas once considered 70. 7. Richelieu . 81. 28. Chaudiere 82. 18. three hundred and forty-five feet, as. 32. On passing to the southern extremity. 96. 31. that all these avails are not sufficient ; in. 11. to the Bar-room^ i3;s. 3. at the top of the sloping bank. 151. 29. considered a sure crop. 154. 1.3. plaster on lath, 210. 1 . By eight o'clock we arrived at Qneen.slon, 2;»(». 17. a ooe dozen hoi of Seidlitz powders, ' * . -' ^h •/ • 1.: - ‘Sv. :■■. '. vt % . ■ • ■. . - ». c ... ./ i . ' ^ J • \ . >■ V ^ g: A 1 /. ;» •: r‘ '( ' f . .’t . .;' . ■ ■■' •>■ 'j %■• *' < -; . ,J, ,,. > jiaAlWV- ' ‘ ' ■ ' ■■ ' ■» . Jf- ^ ■ ,|V r>^ ..--^ •- •• •• •« ^ •.It f I»i J # J V::. 4 \ .i 4 ^ ^ • '^‘** ■ ->• j!* . 1 ' V Vt. rr% ’ • i;;vj1i^kr-' Jl‘ ' , ; 4 >- f ^ -