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THE 
 
 CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 ACCOMPANIED BY A 
 
 MAP OF THE BRITISH AMERICAN PROVINCES, 
 
 AND 
 
 an appendix 
 
 eONTAIMING USEFUL STATISTICAL INFORMATION. 
 
 MONTREAL : 
 
 HEW EAMSAY. 
 
 TORONTO ; 
 
 A. H. AEMOUR & Co. 
 
 Quebec, P. Sinclair ; Tliree Rivers, G. Stores ; Sherbrooke, 
 W. Brooks ; Montreal, B. Dawson, and R. & A. Miller ; 
 Ottawa, A. Bryson ; Kingston, J. Duff ; Port Hope, J. C. 
 Ansley; London, C.W.,Thos. Coombe. 
 
 1856. 
 
Enregistered according to Act of the Provincial Legislature, 
 in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and 
 fifty-six, by Hew Ramsay, in the Office of the Registrar 
 of the Province ©f Canada. • 
 
 MONTREAL ! H. RAMSAY. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 Page. 
 
 Niagara and Falls, 1 
 
 Falls to Hamilton, 9 
 
 Hamilton, 
 
 Falls to Toronto, 13 
 
 Toronto, 13 
 
 London, C. W 17 
 
 Toronto to Colingwood, 1^ 
 
 Lake Simcoe, 26 
 
 Toronto to Kingston, 28 
 
 Kingston, 35 
 
 Lake Ontario, U. S. Shores, 40 
 
 Kingston to Montreal, 44 
 
 The Thousand Islands, 45 
 
 Montreal, 54 
 
 The Ottawa, 76 
 
 Montreal to Quebec, 87 
 
 Three Rivers — Falls of Shawenegan, 88 
 
 Quebec and Environs, 92 
 
 Trip to the Saguenay, 130 
 
 Quebec to Richmond, (Railway) 135 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 ir. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Montreal to Richmond, (Railway) 137 
 
 Richmond to Gorham, (do) 141 
 
 The White Mountains, 155 
 
 Conclusion, 165 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Canadian Census, 167 
 
 Agricultural Statistics, 172 
 
 Manufactures, 175 
 
 Imports and Exports, 182 
 
 Customs Revenue, 182 
 
 Statistical View of Exports and Imports, 183 
 
 Shipping, 184 
 
 Gross Revenue for 1855, 185 
 
 Bank Imposts — Average Circulation and Duty Paid,. . 187 
 
 Cost of Various Public Works, 188 
 
 Canals, 190 
 
 Railways— Tables of Distances, 198 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 In introducing our readers to the fair Province of Canada 
 at the Falls of Niagara, we do so because it is there that 
 we are first enabled to welcome the great tide of tourists, 
 who, annually fleeing from the summer heats of the 
 Southern and Western States, or the cares of the busj 
 industry of the sea-board, commence the tour of the 
 lakes and cities of the colony — and assuredly no country in 
 the world is entered through portals of such unspeakable 
 grandeur. True, no passports are here to be vised ^ — no 
 frowning battlements, guarded by the jealous sentry, stop 
 the traveller’s progress, and mark his entrance into a 
 foreign land ; but nature herself has marked the boundary 
 between two kindred and friendly people by these world- 
 renowned Falls, offering to the eye of the gazer a scene 
 which neither pencil nor pen has yet adequately delineated, 
 — a scene which in its awful grandeur can never fade from 
 the memory, but with the dissolution of memoRy itself. 
 We can but bid the tourist gaze, listen and be silent, in 
 presence of the grandest of nature’s works. Singularly 
 enough as it may seem, the prevailing feeling, on first 
 looking on the Falls of Niagara, is — disappointment Yet a 
 moment’s reflection will explain this — the mind is asit ^-^ere 
 overwhelmed — we are incapable of grasping theleng^h^ 
 
 A 
 
^ 
 
 2 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 the breadth, the depth, the volume, — in short, the immensity 
 that the scene reveals— there is;, besides, nothing that we 
 have ever seen or dreamt of that by comparison may aid 
 us, and the consequence is, that it is hours and days even^ 
 before eye, and ear, and sense begin to realise or compre- 
 hend the full grandeur of the whole. 
 
 Though we may not attempt the description, we shall 
 offer a few facts as to the river and scenery, which, we 
 doubt not, will prove of interest and service to the tourist 
 — as well for present guidance as for future reference — 
 availing ourselves for this purpose of a few paragraphs 
 from “ Roy’s History of Canada,” — a very unpretending- 
 little work, which contains an excellent account of the 
 country in its past and present condition. 
 
 “ Whilst travelling over the few intervening miles 
 before reaching the Falls, you can, by looking upwards, 
 see the calm waters in the distance, whilst nearer they 
 swell and foam, and recoil, and seem to be gathering up 
 all their force for the mighty leap they are about to make, 
 Mrs. .Jameson, wdien speaking of them, says in her own 
 beautiful manner, ‘ The whole mighty river comes rushing 
 over the brow of a hill, and, as you look up at it, seems 
 as if coming down to overwhelm you ; then meeting with 
 the rocks as it pours down the declivity, it boils and frets 
 like the breakers- of the Ocean. Huge mounds of water, 
 smooth^ transparent, and gleaming like an emerald, rise up 
 and bound over some impediment, then break into silver 
 foam, which leaps into the air in the most graceful and 
 fantastic forms.’ 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 3 
 
 The Horseshoe or Canadian Fall is not quite circular, 
 but is marked by projections and indentations which give 
 amazing variety of form and action to the mighty torrent. 
 There it falls in one dense mass of green water, calm, 
 unbroken and resistless ; here it is broken into drops, and 
 falls like a shower of diamonds, sparkling in the sun, and 
 at times it is so light and foaming that it is driven up again 
 ' by the currents of air ascending from the deep below, 
 
 where all is agitation and foam. 
 
 “ Goat or Iris Island, which divides, and perhaps adds to 
 the sublimity of the Falls, is three hundred and thirty yards 
 wide, covered with vegetation. The American Fall, 
 which is formed by the east branch of the river, is smaller 
 than the British, and at first sight has a plain and uniform 
 aspect. This, however, vanishes as you come near, and, 
 
 I though it does not subdue the mind as the Canadian one 
 
 does, it fills you with a solemn and delightful sense of 
 grandeur and simplicity. It falls upwards of two hundred 
 feet, and is about twenty feet wide at the point of fall, 
 spreading itself like a fan in falling. 
 
 ^ An ingenious American has thrown a curious wooden ^ 
 
 ^ bridge across this Fall to Goat Island, which you cross 
 
 only a very few yards above the crest of the cataract. 
 
 ^ Passing by it, and crossing the island, you reach the 
 
 extremity of the British Fall on its eastern side. Here 
 a piece of timber projects about twelve feet over the 
 abyss, on which you can stand safely, and view the waters 
 as they rush by, whilst the spray dashes over you, and your 
 frail support quivers under your feet. Here you may 
 
 I 
 
'ey 
 
 4 * THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 follow the course of the waters as they roll from the rude 
 confusion below you, and spread themselves out into bright, 
 curling, foaming, green and white waves. To some per- 
 sons, nothing at the Falls appears so beautiful as the 
 columns of mist, which soar from the foaming abyss, and 
 shroud the broad front of the great flood, whilst here and 
 there rainbows peep out from the mysterious curtain.” 
 
 The River Niagara, which is only thirty-three and 
 a half miles long, forms the connecting link between Lakes 
 Erie and Ontario — the latter lake being three hundred 
 and thirty-four feet below the level of the former. Abova 
 the Falls, at Table Rock, the descent has been found to be 
 fifty-one feet, and from the boiling basin below the Horse- 
 Snoe Fall to the level of Lake Ontario one hundred and 
 nineteen, which thus leaves one hundred and sixty-four feet 
 of a perpendicular fall. So far then as mere height is 
 concerned, the Falls of Niagara are not the highest in the 
 world. But let the spectator reflect, while the solid earth 
 trembles under his feet, while gazing on the phlegethon of 
 seething waters lashed into one sheet of foam beneath, 
 that into that cauldron are precipated the drainage of the 
 immense territories which surround Lakes Superior, Huron, 
 Michigan and Erie ; lakes, or rather seas, which, in their 
 ^ggi’egate, cover ninety-two thousand square miles — that 
 all this mass is compressed or forced to flow within a 
 channel little, if any, over a single mile in breadth, and that 
 here, after being roused into frightful tumult by the rapids 
 above, the whole, amid its own thunders, plunges at one 
 bound to seek repose in the placid bosom of Lake Ontario. 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 5 
 
 Imagination fails to realise the immensity of what the eye 
 gazes upon, and we begin to comprehend why Niag- 
 ara is so unspeakably superior to any thing else of its 
 kind in the known world. Add to this, for the purpose 
 of aiding the fancy of the practical man, that, by calcula- 
 tions based upon the depth of the water below Lake Erie, 
 forty-two feet, and its rapidity immediately above the falls, 
 twenty-miles an hour, it is ascertained with sufficient cor- 
 rectness that six hundred thousand tons pass over the Falls 
 of Niagara every minute ! Below the Falls the formation 
 of the banks, which are upwards of three hundred feet high, 
 force the river abruptly from its direct course, and its 
 waters are again tortured, still seething from the basin 
 above, into a wild whirlpool, which, though in a very 
 different style, is a spectacle of surpassing wonder. Into 
 this everything that has passed over the Falls is irresistibly 
 swept, and from the vortex nothing seems to escape, as 
 if it had been specially destined to destroy all trace of 
 what had existed above — animate or inanimate — that 
 nothing might emerge to reveal the mysteries of that dread- 
 ful plunge. Here, in a heaving and whirling basin, sur- 
 rounded by high dark foliaged banks, which throw a gloomy 
 shadow beneath, the wreck of all that passes over is 
 churned and ground to pieces ; and here, for several days 
 successively, the dead bodies of drowned men have been 
 seen by the horror-struck spectators, whirled round and 
 round, with outstretched arms as if still struggling to escape 
 from the black abyss. The Whirlpool” is indeed a 
 striking, but a dismal scene. Visit it, gentle reader, by 
 
6 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 twiliglit if you would know what the poet means by the 
 Hell of waters.” 
 
 Independently of the scenes we have thus rapidly men- 
 tioned, there are many points of interest well worthy of 
 the tourist’s notice, and which a few days’ stay at the 
 Falls will afford him an opportunity of visiting. Among 
 others, we refer to the Suspension and Railway Bridges, 
 a couple of miles below the Clifton House. The latter 
 in particular is a wonderful triumph of the skill of man — 
 and the mere view of a train of cars with the steam- 
 engine passing over the gorge from shore to shore, at a 
 height of three hundred feet over the immense river 
 beneath, is something almost appalling. Thousands will 
 cross, and cross in safety ; but we believe no man will do 
 so, for the first time at any rate, without experiencing 
 feelings akin to fear ; at all events the boldest will breathe 
 more freely when on terra Jirma. A close inspection of 
 the prodigious strength of this colossal work, and the 
 scientific principles upon which it has been constructed, 
 will remove all grounds for reasonable apprehension ; still 
 the position of the traveller, passing in mid-air over 
 such an abyss, where the slightest accident would be 
 instant destruction, will produce, reason or no reason, in 
 most men’s minds — at least a sensation.” The drives 
 in the neighbourhood are varied, such as to Chippewa, 
 Lundy^s Lane and Queenston Heights, all points which 
 have an historical interest from the events of the War of 
 1812; the last particularly has a mournful interest, both 
 to the British and the American, as the place where the 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 7 
 
 brave and good Brock fell in the arms of victory. A 
 magnificent monument has recently been erected to mark 
 the spot where the hero fell, the original monument having 
 been partially destroyed by gunpowder in 184.0, by 
 a miserable miscreant named Lett. From the summit 
 of this noble column the tourist may survey the whole 
 scene of the battle, and an extended prospect of a 
 magnificent country — now the abode of peace and plenty. 
 
 At the mouth of the river he may see the British 
 fort and the red cross banner floating in the breeze. On 
 the opposite side the star-spangled flag of young America 
 waves over the batteries of the republic. In the month 
 of October, 1813, when the sun shot its morning rays 
 upon the autumn tinted leaves of the forest, both flags half 
 lowered on the staffs lamented, the one a fallen chief, the 
 other a fallen foe — the soldiers of our country in sorrow 
 and tears bore the body of their beloved hero to his 
 grave of honour, but the solemn minute guns which 
 accompanied the sad procession were fired, gun for gun, as 
 well from the American as the British Artillery. Both na- 
 tions may be proud of such events as this, which, though the 
 most striking example, is by no means the only one of the 
 noble feelings which actuated both, even mid all the harsher 
 features of a deadly struggle. Let the Englishman visit 
 Plattsburgh — Portland — Boston, he will find the warriors 
 of his country there resting in honoured graves. Halifax 
 and Portsmouth will show to the American, monuments 
 raised by focmen’s hands to his gallant countrymen who 
 sleep beneath, yet not in a foreign land, but in the land of 
 
8 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 their fathers. These are but sad reminiscences — yet 
 where war is the theme, they are the pleasantest that we 
 can offer ; and they, the remembrances of noble acts and 
 generous sympathies, are all that we would care to remark 
 of a struggle between mutual friends— the two great civil- 
 izing powers of the globe. 
 
 Hitherto we have treated our readers, as some of the 
 old Roman writers treated their heroes ; we have laid out 
 work enough for many days, and quite forgot that during 
 that time rest, sleep and food were necessities of existence. 
 All, however, may be found in luxury and abundance in 
 the many spacious and well conducted hotels on either 
 side of the river. We decidedly recommend the Clifton 
 House to the tourist, not as being better than the Interna- 
 tional, the Cataract, or the other houses on the American 
 side, for we know their extent of accommodation and 
 comfort j but because of its situation, offering at all 
 times from its spacious galleries a most magnificent 
 view of the Falls. And it is something, that, when 
 fatigued with walking or driving, one can, while enjoying 
 rest, still gaze on the sublime scene. 
 
 To reach the various points of attraction which we 
 have partially enumerated, carriages, and loquacious if not 
 well-informed drivers, are in waiting at the difl'erent hotels 
 from early inorn to late in the evening. But before 
 starting make a bargain with your Jehu, or the conclusion 
 of your excursion will be unpleasant. If you pay a just 
 price, Jarvey will growl and perhaps be insolent, and if you 
 pay to his satisfaction, you may retire to rest with the 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 9 
 
 pleasing consciousness of having been done brown. 
 In fact, these gentlemen, the drivers, like all others whose 
 gains must be made in a few months, have only one mode 
 of charging for their services, and that is to extract from 
 their victims just as much as they can stand. Tourists, to 
 them, are but pigeons to be plucked. It would be unfair 
 to restrict our remarks to the carriage-drivers, in fact 
 they are no worse than a dozen other sets of men who 
 infest the Falls with museums, nick-nacks, daguerreotypes, 
 &c., &c., to exhibit or sell to the stranger. All look 
 upon him as fair game, and we cannot move in or around 
 the place without paying for something — or rather nothing. 
 
 The Falls to Hamilton. 
 
 To leave the Niagara Falls — for now that we are 
 beginning to growl, we may as well be off — the traveller 
 will start from the Suspension Bridge, The route west- 
 ward is by the Great Western Railway, which, from this 
 point to Hamilton, runs through a beautifully undulating 
 country. There are several points of interest on the way : 
 the chief place of note, however, is St. Catherines, one of 
 the most rapidly improving towns in Western Canada, if we 
 except London. It is located on a rising ground, and com- 
 mands a fine view of the Welland Canal, and surrounding 
 country for a considerable distance. St. Catherines owes 
 its prosperity to its close proximity to the Welland Canal, 
 and the Great Western Railway. It was not long 
 since lighted with gas. Its mineral springs have be- 
 
10 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 come the favorite resort of tourists in search of health. 
 The town of St. Catherines presents much business 
 activity, particularly in flour-mills, brewing and shipbuild- 
 ing, also supporting two newspapers. It has a population 
 of about six thousand. The Niagara District Bank has 
 its head quarters in St, Catherines, which possessess be- 
 sides several Bank Agencies. 
 
 Leaving St. Catherines the railway passes through an 
 old settled district, probably the wealthiest in the Western 
 Province. A new hotel is being erected on the village 
 plot of Ontario, within a few miles of Hamilton, which is 
 estimated to cost JB5,000. The view of Lake Ontario, 
 which is obtained from the cars, presents nothing of inter- 
 est until reaching Hamilton, where the first object seen to 
 the right is Burlington Canal, as it is called, but which is 
 rather a broad, deep cut through a singular neck or sand- 
 bank which formerly separated Burlington Bay from the 
 lake. The cut is barely half a mile in length, and is one 
 hundred and eighty feet wide, with a depth sufficient to 
 admit the largest class of vessels that navigate the lakes. 
 Through this canal, steamboats enter without any stop- 
 page, as there is no lock. At the head of this lake, or as 
 it is termed Burlington Bay, stands the flourishing town ot 
 
 Hamiliou* 
 
 The City of Hamilton is one of the most beautifully 
 situated places in Canada, with a fine background rising 
 gradually from the hay. Its situation in a commercial 
 point of view leaves nothing to be desired. At the head of 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 11 
 
 Lake Ontario, with which it communicates hythe Burling- 
 ton canal, above mentioned, it is the inland place of import 
 and export for one of the finest and most extensive agricul- 
 tural districts on the continent, and, as a natural conse- 
 quence, is rapidly rising in importance. In 1845 it con- 
 tained only six thousand five hundred inhabitants, now it 
 numbers upwards of twenty thousand, having thus more 
 than trebled its population in ten years. The streets are 
 wide and well laid out, while the beautiful freestone, of 
 which the houses are built, gives the whole an appearance 
 of^beauty and solid wealth rarely equalled. Indeed, some 
 of the more recently built stores have an appearance of 
 palatial elegance which we have never seen surpassed. 
 
 The completion of the Great Western Railway within 
 the last year has added another sure element of greatness 
 to this rising and beautiful city ; placing it in rapid com- 
 munication with the many thriving towns in its rear, as 
 well as with the far west by Detroit, and by the Suspension 
 Bridge at Niagara with the whole system of railway 
 communication in the State of New York. The wharves, 
 machine-shops and station of this railway, on the bay, are 
 on a very extensive scale, and most substantially executed 
 at an enormous expense, — an expense, however, which 
 the great trade on the road fully justifies the foresight of 
 the directors in having undertaken. Indeed, though only 
 in its first year of operation, it is already found inadequate 
 to the growing demands of the trade, and a double line of 
 rails is about to be laid down, while, at the same time, the 
 communication by railroad to Toronto, and thence by the 
 
12 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 Grand Trunk to Montreal and Portland, will complete its 
 communications, at ail seasons of the year, with the sea- 
 board and the Lower Provinces. Thus happily placed 
 the ambition of the good people of Hamilton may well 
 look forward to the day when their city shall be the queen 
 of Canada West — which is in reality the aim of their 
 efforts. It supports five newspapers. In the neighbourhood 
 of the city there are numerous fine drives. Among others 
 we would recommend the tourist to visit the mountain in 
 rear of the city, from which a magnificent panoramic view 
 is obtained of the bay, Lake Ontario, and the surrounding 
 hills which skirt the head of this lake, to the rear and west 
 of Dundas, forming a picturesque and romantic landscape 
 not to be excelled. Hamilton is not only of great impor- 
 tance as a commercial city, as the outlet to a vast agricul- 
 tural country to the West, and depot for the millions of 
 bushels of wheat and barrels of Hour collected on its 
 wharves, but its extensive foundries, carriage establish- * 
 meats, and various other manufactories, render it one of 
 the most flourishing cities in Western Canada. Live 
 miles further westward, in a valley adjacent to the Great 
 Western Pvailway, lies the manufacturing town of Dundas, 
 and which is also connected with Hamilton by the 
 Desjardin Canal. 
 
 Leaving Hamilton in the morning for Toronto by either 
 of the fine steamers that now ply on this route, the 
 traveller reaches his destination in about two hours and a 
 half the distance being only forty-live miles. The boats 
 on their trips sail pretty near the Canadian shorei 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 18 
 
 Aod a good \iew is afforded of a countiy of gi-eat beauty, 
 though without any marked features of natural scenery to 
 attract notice. There are, however, seen, in succession, the 
 towns or villages of Wellington Square, Oakville, and Port 
 Credit. In the neighbourhood of the last there is an Imtian 
 reserve, belonging to the Missisagua Indians, extending for 
 one mile on each side of the river Credit. Their village was 
 built by Government in 1825. They have a Methodist 
 chapel and a school attached, besides a warehouse at the 
 Port. It is gratifying to mention that the Indians here 
 possess -£1350 of the stock of ll>e company that built the 
 harbour at an expense of j£2500, which might be so 
 improved as to be rendered capable of affording refuge 
 for any number of ships. 
 
 The Falls to Toronto. 
 
 Travellers desirous of leaving the Clifton House at 
 Niagara Falls for Toronto direct, may take the Erie 
 and Ontario Railway, which is fourteen miles long, for the 
 town of Niagara. Thenc e they have opportunities twice 
 a day by the elegant steamers Peerless and Zimmerman 
 to embark for Toronto. The time occupied between the 
 Falls and Toronto is usually about an hour and a half. 
 
 Toronto 
 
 is at present the largest and most populous city of Western 
 Canada. The people of the place themselves say that 
 ere long it will be the largest city in British America. 
 
14 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 Hamilton, which they call the ambitious little city, dis- 
 putes this boast, and asserts that that honour is for their 
 rising community. In the meantime, both of them have 
 to catch Montreal, which is by no means inclined to wait 
 for them in the race of progress. Be that as it may, the 
 progress of Toronto has been, and continues to be, very 
 great. Not quite sixty years ago, only two Indian families 
 resided on the place where the noble city now stands and 
 grows. In 1793, however. Governor Simcoe observed 
 the favourable situation, and commenced the town which 
 was then called York, a name which, for various obvious 
 reasons, (among which the soubriquet of Little York” 
 or " Muddy Little York” was not the least influential,) 
 was, at the incorporation of the City in 1834, changed 
 to Toronto — signifying in the Indian language, “ The 
 place of Meeting.” In 1817 the population was only 
 twelve hundred ; in 1830, two thousand eight hundred 
 and fifty ; in 1850, twenty-five thousand ; and now, 
 in 1855, it amounted to foHy-five thousand and up- 
 wards. Whatever the future may effect, it is in the 
 meantime, in all respects, the capital of the Western 
 Province. In situation, as a harbour, it is perfectly 
 protected by a long tongue of land running out and 
 forming a natural breakwater between the bay, which 
 it encloses, and the sometimes angry sea of the lake. The 
 bay is lined nearly its whole length by wooden wharves, 
 which, unfortunately, are the property of private individuals 
 and injurious to the appearance of the place, as well as 
 insufficient for the commerce of such a city. This will 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 15 
 
 probably soon cease to be the case, and harbour accommo- 
 dation, more in accordance with the wealth and trade of 
 the western capital, will be provided. The site of the 
 city is nearly level from east to west, and has nothing 
 attractive so far as natural beauty is concerned , but it 
 rises gradually to the north to from eighty to ninety feet 
 above the level of the bay. The streets are wide and 
 regularly laid out, the principal ones running parallel 
 to the lake, and intersected at right angles by streets 
 opening to the water and running inland, forming so many 
 channels by which cool breezes have free access to al* 
 parts of the town. The buildings are good, and even 
 handsome ; though brick, unfortunately, is the only material 
 that can be had, except at such an expense as to prevent 
 private proprietors from using stone. It is, nevertheless, 
 with its gardens and public buildings, an exceedingly 
 elegant and well laid out city— well paved, well lighted 
 with gas, but as yet poorly supplied with water. 
 
 Since the disturbances in 1849, which ended in the 
 burning of the Parliament Houses at Montreal, the 
 Legislature meets, at Toronto and at Quebec alternately 
 every four years. Last year commenced Toronto’s 
 quadrennial honours 5 but that a system so absurd should 
 continue is of course out of the question, though when it 
 may finally end its wanderings is a moot question. The 
 principal public buildings, several of them built of a 
 very beautiful freestone, are St. .Tames’ Cathedral 
 English), the Catholic Church of St. Michael, the Univer- 
 sity of Toronto, the St. Lawrence Hall, and Market*, 
 
16 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 the ParliameRt House, Osgoode Hall (the Lincoln’s Inn 
 of Upper Canada,) the Court House, the Post Office, 
 the Mechanic’s Institute, the Exchange, Knox’s Church, 
 the Normal and Model Schools, besides a number of 
 large and handsome Citj Schools, Trinity College, Upper 
 Canada College, Lunatic Asylum and the Jail. 
 
 All these buildings are worthy of the notice of the 
 intelligent tourist, and we particularly recommend a visit 
 to the Provincial Normal and Model Schools. To the 
 former of these, the Province at large is greatly indebted 
 for the number of admirably trained instructors of both 
 sexes, who are annually sent forth, the good effects of 
 whose teaching are already felt throughout the whole of 
 Canada West. 
 
 We refer the reader, however, for a more particular 
 description of Toronto and its environs, to a work about to 
 be published, by Mr. Armour, of Toronto. It has been got 
 up with great care, and will satisfy the most curious as to the 
 number, extent, and appropriations of all the public build- 
 ings in the city. 
 
 At Toronto, the tourist, who has accompanied us from 
 Niagara, will meet with other travellers who have come 
 direct without touching at Hamilton, as well as with many 
 who, commencing their tour in Canada from Windsor, op- 
 posite Detroit, have passed over the Great Western Ptail- 
 road to Hamilton, and thence to Toronto by a branch 
 which will be opened ere these pages issue from the j)ress. 
 By this road the stranger passes through what has been 
 with justice called the garden of Canada. Beffinnins; at 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 17 
 
 V^'indsor, a village at present of only five hundred inhabit- 
 ants, and directly opposite Detroit, the road passes Chat- 
 ham, London, Ingersoll, Woodstock, Paris, and Dundas 
 to Hamilton, in all a distance of one hundred and eighty- 
 six miles, and thence to Toronto, a distance of forty-five 
 miles. 
 
 London* 
 
 Of the towns above mentioned London, is the largest, 
 containing a population of twelve thousand inhabitants. 
 It is beautifully situated on the River Thames, and 
 being in the heart of one of the richest agricultural 
 countries in the world, is destined to become also a 
 city of great importance. Besides its present advan- 
 tages, it will, ere a few months are over, have railway 
 communication with Port Stanley, Goderich, Guelph and 
 Toronto — the first on Lake Erie, the second on Lake 
 Huron. There is no place in Western Canada which has 
 improved in a greater ratio than London. It is one of 
 those inland situations in the heart of the very best farm- 
 ing districts in the Province. It is nearly in the centre of 
 the western peninsula of Canada, than w'hich a richer and 
 more productive soil does not exist on the American Con- 
 tinent. It may be said to be comparatively a new place and 
 a new country, and yet the market of London teems with 
 all the substantial blessings of life. In 1820 the present site 
 of the city of London was a wilderness, in which the red 
 man, the wolf, and the deer roamed at large undisturbed. 
 By the influence of civilization it is now a flourishing and 
 
18 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 populous city. It already contains a number of splendid 
 buildings, amongst which are a beautiful Town Hall, 
 an excellent Market-House, several large Hotels, num- 
 erous Churches, amongst which is a beautiful gothic 
 
 structure belonging to the English Church, with a chime 
 of bells, the only one in Upper Canada — they ca?i be 
 heard for miles round the citv, revivirig^ the endearing: re- 
 collections of the settler’s boyhood. 
 
 London is, likv Hamilton, Toronto, and indeed all the 
 rising towns of Canada, laid out in wide streets and 
 remarkably well built. Unmistakable evidence is every- 
 where presented of its flourishing state. About three 
 hundred new houses are, while we write, in course 
 
 of erection. Being the centre of a rich agricultural 
 district there is a large trade carried on in wheat 
 
 and other produce, while in various manufactures it is 
 making rapid progress — several iron foundries are in 
 
 successful operation, and to one of them an extensive 
 boiler-making establishment has been added ; and there are 
 grist mills, brewries, tanneries, carriage factories, and 
 other important works, all apparently profitably engaged. 
 London is a port of entry, so that, among other advantages 
 which its trade enjoys, goods may come direct through the 
 United States under bond. So rapidly has the commerce 
 and trade of the town developed itself that no fewer than 
 five agencies of the principal Provincial Banks have been 
 established ; four newspapers, enjoying a good share of 
 public support, are carried on ; and the public and private 
 seminaries for the education of youth enjoy a good repu- 
 tation. The climate is remarkably salubrious. 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 19 
 
 We might direct the tourist’s attention to other places 
 on this route, Chatham and Woodstock in ’particular ; 
 but he will be more forcibly attracted by the rich 
 and beautiful appearance of the country through which he 
 passes, and thence easily understand how so many 
 large and opulent villages and cities are presented to 
 his observation — cities whose influence, in a commercial 
 point of view, is increasingly felt not only in Boston and 
 New York, but in the most distant markets of the world, 
 for, owing to the riches that can buy and the facilities for 
 transit, the necessaries and luxuries of the world are to be 
 found in abundance in this yet barely opened country. 
 
 Toronto to Colliugwood. 
 
 Returning to Toronto, where we have noW congregated 
 our readers from so many different quarters, we must in 
 mercy to the hotel-keepers, if for no other reason, start 
 our friends on their eastward wanderings; but not till we 
 suggest a trip to the north to such as have the leisure and 
 desire to see a little of the country in its original wild 
 beauty. This opportunity is now offered by the Ontario, 
 Simcoe and Huron Railway, which runs in a northerly 
 direction, a distance of ninety-six miles, to the newly 
 founded town of Collingwood^ on Nottawasaga Bay. On 
 this route the country, as far as Lake Simcoe, of which a 
 good view is obtained from the cars, is well settled, and 
 the soil is generally excellent ; but after passing Holland’s 
 Landing, the road is almost entirely through the forest. 
 Collingwood itself is rather a town in esse than in actual 
 
:^0 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 existence ; but from its situation^ and tbe ner^ traae now 
 opened up, there cannot be a doubt that, ere five years are 
 over, it will reckon its inhabitants by thousands, and that 
 long before the stumps have vanished from its streets, it 
 will claim rank as a city. The railway has been only 
 opened within the past year, and already the number 
 of travellers passing by this route for Chicago and 
 Milwaukie, give full employment for four large steamboats, 
 which daily ply to these places, besides two other boats 
 which trade to Sault Ste. Marie, at the entrance of Lake 
 Superior. In fact this route is rapidly growing in public 
 favour, as will be easily understood, when it is mentioned 
 that the saving of distance from New York, Boston or 
 Portland via Oswego, Toronto, and Collingwood to 
 Chicago or Milwaukie, is no less than four hundred miles, 
 with a saving of time, money and personal fatigue in 
 proportion. These advantages have already crowded the 
 road with passengers and freight — the latter, owing to tbe 
 operation of the reciprocity treaty, increasing to a degree 
 utterly unlooked for. The distance from Toronto to 
 Collingwood is accomplished in four hours, and, if the 
 reader will consult the map, he will perceive that the 
 tourist or emigrant bound for the Far West has, in this 
 brief time, cut off from his journey the whole tedious 
 voyage up Lake Erie, Detroit Ptiver, Lake and River 
 St. Clair, with all the lower half of Lake Huron. The 
 immense advantages of the road are thus summed up by 
 the lively and observing correspondent of an American 
 paper, the International Journal : — 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 21 
 
 “The Collingwood route is the result of Canadian 
 enterprise. It opens up a pathway to the West, over 
 Canadian territory, avoiding the tedious route round the 
 Lakes, securing expedition, a reduction of expences and 
 increased comfort— facts of no little importance to ship- 
 pers, emigrants, and pleasure parties. Goods from the 
 eastern cities, marked via Oswego, will at that port have 
 the attention of the Company’s Agent, Mr. James N. 
 Brown, who is always on the spot, to prevent delays, and 
 secure expedition ; a systematic arrangement has been 
 established, to secure dispatch, over the entire route. 
 Families emigrating west will also appreciate the impor- 
 tance of this route, while tourists travelling for pleasure, 
 must note its unequalled attractions, ‘ as, (to quote a good 
 authority) night travel on the entire line will be performed 
 on steamboats luxuriously furnished, and the day-hgbt 
 passed amidst the sublime scenery of the Great Lakes, 
 embracing the Straits of Mackinaw, the Manitoulin 
 Islands, Sault Ste. Marie, and the Million Islands of 
 Georgian Bay. The Branch route connecting with Lake 
 Superior, gives access to all the hitherto little explored 
 
 magnificence of that region.” 
 
 To the foregoing remarks, which point out the natural 
 elements of wealth and progress in a new country, we 
 add a few extracts from one of a series of articles in 
 Blackwood's Magazine, attributed to the pen of Mr. 
 Oliphant, late Secretary to Lord Elgin — a gentleman 
 whose graphic style renders his writings particularly 
 interesting. It wdl be observed, however, that he tra- 
 
22 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 vels only a part of the road by the railway, which in fact 
 was not finished at the time of his visit in 1854?. 
 To those inclined to see a little rough life and the 
 wild sports of the Canadian rivers and lake shores, the 
 articles in Blackwood will be found exceedingly interesting 
 — meantime we present the reader with one or two speci- 
 mens from this author’s pages. 
 
 Leaving Toronto, be says : 
 
 I have seldom seen a more smiling, prosperous-look- 
 ing district than that through which we passed on our way 
 to Lake Simcoe.^ Substantial farm-houses, with neat 
 well-built olFices, were planted in the midst of orchards 
 and gardens, and alforded presumptive evidence that their 
 thriving occupants had reaped many rich harvests from 
 the acres of waving corn-fields through which we sped, and 
 upon which not even a stump was left to remind the rail- 
 way traveller how short a time had elapsed since the 
 solitary Indian was the only wayfarer through the silent 
 and almost impenetrable forests that then clothed the 
 country. Now, there is little to distinguish it from many 
 parts of England. Snake fences are certainly not so 
 agreeable a feature in a landscape as hedge-rows, and 
 there is an unfinished look about the cultivation, and a 
 want of economy of land, which would probably scandalize 
 an English agriculturist. However^ although land has 
 become very valuable in most of the counties of Upper 
 Canada, it is not yet so precious as to call for an exercise 
 of the same ingenuity for rendering it elastic which is 
 practised in our own country. 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 23 
 
 
 In two hours and a half we reached Grasspoint, a 
 village upon the shores of Lake Sirncoe, where a small 
 steamer was waiting to convey us to Orillia. The lake is 
 studded with islands, and well settled, though the scenery 
 is nowhere striking. A channel so narrow that it is 
 spanned by a bridge connects Lake Simcoe with Lake 
 Couchiching. Passing through it, we wind among wooded 
 islands until we reach the beautifully situated settle- 
 ment of Orillia, containing* a church and number of neat 
 white houses and stores, altogether a perfect specimen of 
 a backwood village in rather an advanced stage.” 
 
 From Orillia, the author with his companions, four in 
 number passed in two birch bark canoes down the Severn, 
 a distance of about sixty miles, to Georgian Bay and 
 thence to Collingwood by steamer. The river is naviga- 
 ble only for canoes, and, except by sportsmen, is as yet 
 rarely visited. 
 
 “ In our eyes, its solitary character and the romantic 
 scenery on its banks were its principal attractions. 
 Having reduced our luggage to the smallest possible 
 dimensions, and put our fishing-tackle into good order, it 
 only remained for us to make ourselves comfortable by 
 spreading a quantity of plucked fern and juniper branches 
 at the bottom of our canoes. B. and I reclined sumptu- 
 ously in one, with about as much accommodation as a ship’s 
 hammock would afford to two moderately stout? individuals. 
 However, as we were less likely to upset by being so 
 closely jammed together that we could scarcely move, we 
 became reconciled to our position between Bonaquum 
 
24 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 Thunderbolt”), who knelt at the bows and paddled, 
 and his brother Kabeshquum (“ Triumphant”), who 
 steered. The other canoe contained Captain A — , 
 whose experience in such expeditions and knowledge of 
 the Indian character and language were most valuable — 
 and Babehwum (‘‘ Snow-storm”), whose son, as an exem- 
 plification of the eflect of civilization over the elements, 
 called himself simply John Storm. As the wind was fair, 
 we rigged our blankets upon sticks cut for the purpose ; 
 and, with all sail set, we glided rapidly on, sometimes 
 threading our way through narrow channels, past low 
 wooded islands, until in about two hours we found our- 
 selves upon the green waters of the Severn. 
 
 “ Lake Simcoe is the highest of the Canadian lakes, 
 having: an elevation of seven hundred feet above the level 
 of the sea. The scenery at the point of debouchure was 
 very beautiful. Masses of rich variegated foliage clothed 
 the banks, and bent over until the river rippled among the 
 leaves. Often dark shadows reached across it, or were 
 chequered by sunbeams glancing through the branches 
 upon the clear and singularly light-coloured water. As 
 we proceeded, we exchanged for the calm surface of the 
 Jake, and the islands which seemed to rest on its bosort), 
 rock and rapid, until at last the torrent became too tumul- 
 tuous for our frail canoes. Meantime we had not been 
 engaged only in enjoying the beauties of nature, we had 
 adopted the usual mode of trolling in this part of the world 
 with copper-spoons, which, twisting rapidly through tlie 
 water, formed a bright and attractive bait ; so that, upon 
 
THR CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 2Cv 
 
 arriving at the first portage, we congratulated ourselves- 
 upon the prospect of lunching off half-a-dozen black bass, 
 weighing from two to five pounds each ; while the Indians- 
 were engaged in culinary preparations. 
 
 “ We were up before daylight on the following morning^ 
 and, after a good fish breakfast, were again on our way. 
 I had scarcely thrown in my trolling-line, when it was- 
 nearly jerked out of my hand by a most unexpected and 
 violent tug. A bark canoe is not the most convenient 
 place from which to play a large fish ; and in my inexpe- 
 rienced eagerness I hauled away pretty steadily, bringing to 
 the surface with some difficulty a fine maskelonge, weigh- 
 ing at least twenty-five pounds. He came splashing and 
 plunging up to the side of the canoe, and I had lifted him 
 out of water when the hook gave way, and I lost as fine 
 a fish as I ever had at the end of a line. However, I was 
 consoled soon after by taking some fine pickerel, weighing 
 from five to eight pounds each ; and before luncheon 
 hooked another maskelonge, when B., jvrofitting by ex- 
 perience, was ready with his gaff-hook, and jerked him 
 most scientifically into the canoe, much to the delight of the 
 Indians. Though not nearly so large as the first, he was 
 a respectable fish, weighing about eighteen pounds. 1 he 
 scenery in the place was bold and rocky, the banks often 
 lofty and precipitous, and the current always strong, with 
 an occasional rapid. We lunched at a portage, which 
 we were obliged to make in order to avoid the falls of the 
 Severn, which are about twenty-five feet in height, and 
 surrounded by fine scenery. There are rapids above and 
 
26 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 below the falls, so that the difference of level between 
 the upper and lower banks of the portage is not less than 
 fiftj feet.” 
 
 We regret that we cannot make room for more extracts 
 Tom these interesting Notes on Canada and the North 
 West States,” but we do the next best thing by recom- 
 mending the articles themselves to the perusal of our 
 readers, and in addition offer the following remarks of a 
 late traveller on 
 
 Lake Simcoe. 
 
 In our recent visit to Toronto we accepted an invita- 
 tion from the agent of the Ontario, Simcoe and Huron 
 Hailroad to visit Lake Simcoe. The running of the 
 trains and the steamer on the lake is so arranged that the 
 citizens of Toronto can leave town in the morning, enjoy 
 a most delightful sail around the lake and return home in 
 the evening. Preferring to take matters a little more 
 leisurely, we left Toronto for Barrie on Friday evening 
 at half past three o^clock. The first thing that surprised 
 us was the amount of travel going over the road. It 
 was not the evening for the passengers to take the steamer 
 for Milwaukie and Chicago, and yet there were four large 
 cars filled with passengers. Their appearance and con- 
 versation showed them to be farmers and business men- 
 who had visited Toronto during the day on business and 
 were returning after their days traffic. 
 
 Barrie is a fine thriving town situated at the head of 
 Kempenfelt Bay, the western arm of Lake Simcoe. 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 27 
 
 There is an excellent hotel there kept by a fine specimen 
 of a Canadian Boniface. When the heats of next summer 
 are upon us, we know of no place we would sooner recom- 
 mend to our citizens for a summer retreat for a few months 
 than Barrie. The air is pure and bracing, the water ex- 
 cellent, the fishing and hunting all that could be desired 
 and Barrie needs only to be known to become a crowded 
 summer resort. During the past summer a very fine 
 steamer, the J. C. Morrison, has been built, more espe- 
 cially to accomodate the pleasure seekers from Toronto 
 and others cities. There is also some trade around the 
 lake which she is designed to accommodate. The lake 
 itself is a perfect gem “ of the purest water” surrounded 
 with forests, with here and there an island reposing upon 
 its quiet bosom. 
 
 It is some fifty or sixty miles long by thirty wide, and 
 taken all in all, is said to be one of the most beautiful 
 lakes in North America. As our noble steamer bore us 
 along we could not help imagining its quiet waters vexed 
 by the trade of the Northwest if the Georgian Canal 
 should hereafter make it a highway for the commerce of 
 the West. If it should be constructed so as to pass vessels 
 of a thousand tons burthen, scores of steamers will pass 
 through this beautiful lake bearing to and from the sea- 
 l^ard the immense traffic of the upper Mississippi Valley. 
 The steamer Monisonxs, commanded by Capt. Fraser, 
 who is well worthy of the important position with which 
 he is entrusted. 
 
I 
 
 ■28 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 Our trip north ended at Orilia, a snug little town at the 
 foot of the lake. 
 
 The railroad from the lake to Toronto crosses the 
 ridges, and we wonder not that those who have passed 
 over it regard the project of constructing a Ship Canal 
 from Lake Simcoe to Toronto as wild and chimericah 
 For some reason — a good one no doubt — the railroad is 
 not located up the valley of the Humber and across the 
 low ridge found between it and the Holland by Mr. Tully. 
 The route for the canal is west of the railioad.” 
 
 Returning from the backwoods and wild scenery of 
 the North, and having enjoyed the rest and luxuries 
 of a night at Russel’s Hotel, we resume our journey to the 
 East on board of one of the comfortable Lake steamers. 
 On this voyage, as before, the vessel keeps the Canadian 
 shore, to use the nautical expression, well on board,” so 
 that the fully settled country, with its cleared farms and 
 cheerful houses and barns, passes like a panorama before 
 the eye. 
 
 The pretty town of Port Hope has a good har- 
 bour, though no great depth of water, and having 
 also excellent water power, it promises to become of 
 considerable manufacturing importance ^ even now its 
 hydraulic power is made available for the machinery of 
 numerous extensive mills, breweries, distilleries, cloth, iron 
 and leather manufactures. In addition to these a large 
 trade in lumber has, of late years, sprung up for export 
 
 Toronto to Kingston. 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 29 
 
 to the United States. Tts present population is upwards 
 of three thousand. The trade with the United States is 
 also rapidlj increasing, not only indeed from it, but from 
 all the ports along the lakes in Upper Canada, and from 
 the Lower Province, as will be seen when we come to 
 speak of the Ottaw^a and the St. Maurice. Port Hope 
 is about sixty-five miles from Toronto, and seven miles 
 further down lies Cobourg, which has a remarkably fine 
 appearance from the lake. 
 
 The Town of Cobourg is built upon a gently rising 
 ground, on a dry gravelly soil, and is exceedingly healthy. 
 Its present population is nearly five thousand. Here are 
 the most extensive cloth manufactories in the Province, 
 — there are also considerable manufactures in iron, 
 leather and marble, with mills, breweries and distilleries — 
 and the general business activity of the place is great. 
 The country in rear is rich in all the productions of agricul- 
 ture, besides iron, marble and timber. It has daily communi- 
 cation with Peterboro’ by railroad, thirty miles, where a 
 large lumber business is carried on. The principal 
 
 buildings in ’Cobourg are the Jail and Court House a 
 little way out of town, and the Victoria College^ which was 
 established in 1842, by Act of the Provincial Legislature, 
 with power to giant degrees in the arts and sciences. Al- 
 though built under the direction of the Wesleyan Metho- 
 dists, it is entirely free from sectarianism. 
 
 At Port Hope or Cobourg we would recommend such 
 as are disposed to see the country, to leave the boat and 
 take the land journey thence through a fine country, to the 
 
30 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST, 
 
 head of the Bay of Quinte. This is a most singular arm 
 of Lake Ontario — commencing nearly at Kingston, and 
 running in a zig-zag course, bebveen fertile and beautiful 
 banks for eighty-miles, it nearly rejoins the lake at its 
 western extremity, and forms the beautiful p< ninsula of 
 Prince Edward. Sometimes this remarkable bay contracts 
 its waters into channels scarcely a quarter of a mile in 
 breadth, and again suddenly opens out into broad lake-like 
 basins. The shores are thickly settled, and in many places 
 the situations are of great beauty. Several fine streams 
 discharge their waters into the Bay, of which the Trent, 
 after a winding course of nearly one hundred mdes from 
 Rice Lake, is the principal. By this river a very large 
 quantity of both sawn and square timber finds its exit— j 
 chiefly supplied from the chain of lakes whence the Trent 
 takes its rise, of which Rice Lake is the principal. Belle- 
 ville, Trenton and Picton are the principal towns on 
 the Bay of Quint6. Though the two first named in parti- 
 cular are but of very recent growth, they already contain 
 respectively six thousand and one thousand five hundred 
 inhabitants. Belleville, situated on the Puver Moira, 
 where it discharges itself into the Bay of Quinte, is 
 favourably situated for trade, and promises to be a place 
 of great importance. It already manufactures and ex- 
 ports to the American market large quantities of lumber. 
 
 It is laid out in wide straight streets, and commands a 
 beautiful view over the bay, and the surrounding country, 
 and is one of the most picturesquely situated as well as 
 handsomely built towns in Upper Canada. 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 31 
 
 On the top of a mountain near Pictoii, on the remarka- 
 ble peninsula of Prince Edward, there is a lake which, 
 according to the popular idea, cannot be fathomed, and is 
 said hy others, professing to be well informed, to be on ihe 
 same level with the bed of Lake Erie, which would make 
 its depth, provided its surface be on the level of the sur- 
 face of the same lake, about three hundred and fifty feeL 
 At Tyendenaga, on the north-east of this bay, there is 
 a very interesting settlement of Mohawk Indians, who 
 separated from their nation in the State of New York 
 about 1784. In 1793 they received from the Crown a 
 large grant of land. In 1820 they surrendeied neaily 
 one-third in exchange for an annuity of ;GI50. In 1835 
 they made a further surrender in trust to be disposed of 
 for their benefit ; so that their possessions do not now ex- 
 ceed sixteen thousand eight hundred acres. I hey live tor 
 the most part on detached farms scattered over the 
 reserve. Ehey have about fifteen hundred acres (Jeaied, 
 and about five hundred under tillage. There ha\e been 
 some instances of successful industry among them. A chief, 
 named Hill, left by will at his ueath a few years ago con- 
 siderable possessions to particular members of his family, 
 who are at this day in full enjoyment of them. One of his 
 sons, who is Catechist to the Missionary, recently built a 
 wharf and commenced business as a general trader among 
 his brethren, in partnership with a white man. They 
 possess stock and agricultural implements corresponding to 
 their progress in husbandry. They were Christians long 
 before their arrival in Canada, and were presented with a 
 
32 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 service of plate for communion as far back as the reign of 
 Queen Anne. This they look upon with great respect, 
 and the chief, in whose custody it remains, is always well 
 pleased to exhibit it to the traveller. They are attached 
 to the Church of England, and, their place of worship 
 having become too small for the congregation, they some 
 years ago erected a commodious stone church, the expense 
 of which was defrayed out of their own funds. A 
 Missionary was first appointed in 1810 by the Society for 
 the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts. Their 
 late excellent Missionary reported that during his incum- 
 bency they had made a gradual advance in morals, 
 piety, and industry. They support a school-master out 
 of the produce of certain small rents, which they receive 
 and manage themselves. Their number is about four 
 hundred. It is highly gratifying to the Christian philan- 
 thropist to mark such progress among the descendants of 
 the ancient proprietors of the American soil. — Between 
 the Peninsula of Prince Edward and Kingston lies 
 Amherst Island, so called after Lord Amherst, one of 
 the Generals in command of the British forces in 1760 
 wdien Canada was transferred to Britain. It was origin- 
 ally granted to Sir John Johnson for military services. 
 The Earl of Mountcashel now owns the principal part. 
 The land is very good, and the tenants are in comfortable 
 circumstances. — It is worth remarking here that the real 
 settlement of Upper Canada took place in 1783 at the 
 close of the first American war. At that time manj 
 inhabitants of the United States, who had adhered to 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 33 
 
 Britain during the unfortunate contest, sought refuge 
 within Canada. As they were generally in a very destitute 
 state, the Government treated them liberally, and afforded 
 them the utmost possible compensation for their losses and 
 Buflerings. With this view the whole land along the St. 
 Lawrence above the French settlements to, and around, 
 the Bay of Quinte, was formed into townships. The 
 settlers were termed the United Emjnre (U. E.) Loyal- 
 ists^ and besides an ample supply of land, received farming 
 utensils, building materials, and subsistence for two years ; 
 and every member of their families, on attaining the age 
 of twenty-one, had a donation of two hundred acres. 
 
 From Mr. Oliphant, the author we have already quoted 
 so freely, we make another extract descriptive of the 
 Bay of Quinte : — 
 
 “ The tourist would do well to spend a day in visit- 
 ing Belleville. Nothing can exceed the beauty of the 
 singularly-formed Bay of Quinte. For eighty miles he 
 follows the windings of this magnificent sheet of water, at 
 every turn disclosing some new charm : now past well- 
 cultivated shores swelling gently back from the water’s 
 edge, where settlers, long since attracted by the beauty 
 of the situation, the fertility of the soil, and tie conve- 
 nience of water-carriage, have planted themselves, and 
 where comfortable farms, well -stocked orchards, and 
 wa ving fields of grain, attest the existence of a large and 
 thriving population, and add to the attractions of nature 
 the agreeable accompaniments of civilised life ; now a deep 
 bay runs far into the interior, and the numerous white sails 
 
34 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 with which it is dotted are certain indications that at its 
 head there is a prosperous town ; while occasionally lofty 
 wooded banks rise abruptly, and give a bolder character 
 to the scenery. I ascended one of these, to visit a 
 singular tarn about two hundred feet above the level of 
 the bay, called the Lake of the Mountain. It has no 
 known outlet, and is only separated from the brow of the 
 hill upon which it is situated by a ridge a few yards 
 across. From this narrow ledge a singular view is 
 obtained. Upon the one hand, and on a level with the 
 spectator, the little lake lies embosomed in wood ; upon 
 the other, he looks down upon a labyrinth of devious 
 channels, forming part of the eccentric Bay of Quints, 
 and intersecting in every direction a richly diversified 
 country, sometimes gleaming behind maple woods bright 
 with autumnal tints, sometimes encircling extensive clear- 
 ings. Certainly Prince Edward’s county, on which this 
 lovely spot is situated, is highly endowed by nature ; and 
 the U. E. Loyalists, who made it their home, displayed 
 unexceptionable taste.” 
 
 • Resuming the journey by steamboat down Lake 
 Ontario from Cobourg, the tourist’s attention is first 
 arrested by the City of Kingston, distant from Toronto 
 one hundred and sixty-five miles, and one hundred and 
 ninety-eight from Montreal. Here we shall meet those 
 who separated from us to take the route by the way of 
 the Bay of Quinte and Belleville, — from which town 
 steamboats, in all respects comfortable and well appointed, 
 leave for Kingston every day. And we must not dismiss 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 35 
 
 this part of our subject without again recommending a sail 
 on the Bay of Quinte as one of the most interesting plea- 
 sure excursions which the Canadian waters atford. How- 
 ever, here we are, from all routes, met at 
 
 Kingslon. 
 
 This city, although perfectly modern in its appearance, is 
 associated with the earliest history of North America, its 
 advantageous situation both for trade and defence having 
 at once attracted the attention of the French discoverers. 
 It is indeed remarkable that from Tadousac up the whole 
 line of lake and river navigation to the far west, down 
 from the sources of the Mississippi to New Orleans, these 
 able navigators and engineers selected, with unerring 
 judgment and foresight, the best points for settlements or 
 trade throughout this immense and then unknown region. 
 Kingston originally was occupied as a small fort under the 
 name of Cataraqui, for the purposes of the fur trade with 
 the Indian tribes. To the English of the Colonies, now 
 forming the United States, it was better known as Fron- 
 tenac, and was the scene of more than one siege ere it 
 passed with all Canada into the power of Great Britain. 
 From Frontenac, where the opposite shores were a wilder- 
 ness, many of those bloody expeditions set out, which, 
 sometimes penetrating through tracks only known to the 
 savage Indians, fell like a thunder clap upon the settle- 
 ments as far south even as the present City of Albany ; 
 and to revenge their inroads, the warlike fathers of our 
 American brothers in their turn, with amazing persever- 
 
36 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 ance and courage, often apj)eared before the walls of the 
 old fort. Nor is it without interest we mention that 
 Washington, the father of the Kepuhlic, gained his first 
 experience in these frontier wars, and though perhaps 
 never actually engaged under its walls, distinguished him- 
 self in repulsing an army wdiich, a few weeks before, had 
 been armed and equipped from Fort Frontenac. King- 
 ston however, as Kingston, was only founded in 1788, and 
 as late as 1830, was spoken of by Bouchette as the 
 ‘Margest and most populous town of Upper Canada;” 
 having at that time, according to the same author, a 
 population of five thousand five hundred souls. Though 
 possissing*many advantages which gave promise of future 
 greatness, it has been far outstripped by other towns 
 farther west, and now contains in 1855 only fifteen thou- 
 sand — a rate of progress, great in the eyes of Europeans, 
 but by no means satisfactory to the American or Canadian. 
 Nevertheless, Kingston is a thriving city, and if not 
 rapid, in comparison with Toronto or Hamilton, its pro- 
 gress is steady and secure — a progress which the con- 
 struction of the Grand Trunk Railway, and its immediate 
 vicinity to the States, not to speak of the increase of its 
 back population, will doubtless tend greatly to augment. 
 The point of greatest interest to the stranger will be the. 
 fortification of Fort Henry, on a hill to the eastern side 
 of the entrance of the Rideau Canal. This is a strong 
 place, and together with two Martello towers off the town, 
 protects the harbour very efficiently. A battery to throw 
 red hot shot defends the city, and on the eastern 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST, 
 
 37 
 
 part of the harbour, are fortified barracks, and the Navy 
 Yard — the latter entirely unused, and the formed occupied 
 by a detachment of the Canadian Pufles. At this 
 place the navigation of the Ptiver St. Lawrence properly 
 commences, and the passengers are transferred from the 
 lake steamers into a class of vessels drawing less water, 
 and calculated to run the rapids as well as pass through 
 the canals below. The harbour is well protected, and is 
 the best on the lakes, there being good anchorage for ships 
 drawing eighteen feet water close to the wharves. This 
 was for many years the principal depot of the Royal 
 Navy, but now, except for the existence of the forts and 
 the barracks, which show what it was and might be again, 
 the place bears as peaceful an aspect as any other town on 
 Lake Ontario. 
 
 The principal local industry of Kingston is shipbuilding, 
 in which department there is a great deal done, chiefly of 
 course in lake craft and steamers, though Capt. Gaskin, of 
 Kingston, and Mr. Hayes, of Toronto have recently set 
 the example of building ships, which, after descending the 
 St. Lawrence and making the voyage to England, are 
 now engaged in the foreign trade of Great Britain. The 
 tonnage of steamers and schooners owned in Kingston 
 is upwards of seven thousand. There are two Marine 
 Ptail-ways, one for hauling out vessels of three hundred 
 tons, and the other for hauling out river boats and 
 barges. At Portsmouth Harbour, a little to the west, 
 lies the Provincial Penitentiary, a visit to which, and 
 inspection of the internal arrangements, will not dis- 
 
 B 
 
38 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 appoint the traveller. Tt is a large stone building, 
 surrounded by a high and most substantial stone wall with 
 towers at the corners. The arrangements are so com- 
 plete that escape seems impracticable, but on one occasion 
 the ingenuity of a captive found means of breaking tlirough 
 the solid walls, and effected a final escape. Blacksmiths, 
 cabinet-makers, carpenters, shoemakers, tailors, &c., are 
 busily employed in different workshops. The silent system 
 is pursued except in necessary intercommunication at work. 
 Perseverance in good behaviour entitles in remarkable cases 
 to a discharge some years before the expiration of the 
 term of confinement. It seems that there are not a few in- 
 stances of convicts becoming inmates again but a short time 
 after receiving their liberty ; so irresistible is the force of 
 habit, when subjected once more to temptation. The cells 
 are so arranged that each keeper has a great number of 
 prisoners, apart from each other, completely under his eve 
 in his round, and can at all times ascertain, without being 
 perceived, whatjs going on. The west wing of the Pen- 
 itentiary, formerly used for military prisoners, has been 
 fitted up lor criminal lunatics, and accomodation is 
 provided for seventy-four patients. The arrangement 
 for lunatics within the Penitentiary is however a temp- 
 orary one, and it is intended to build a permanent Lunatic 
 Asylum to accomodate a hundred and fifty patients, 
 upon land, which overlooks the Penitentiary, and which 
 was selected by Lord Sydenham, when he was at Kingston, 
 as the site for the proposed Government House. Near 
 the Penitentiary are baths and mineral springs, which have 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 39 
 
 / 
 
 been much frequented. In the neighbourhood is an ex- 
 tensire brewery and distillery. Its forges and machine 
 shops are among the largest in Canada. It has also a large 
 foundry and shop for the manufacture of locomotives. 
 Kingston returns one member to Parliament. 
 
 The University of Queen’s College, situated at King- 
 ston, was founded by Royal Charter of Her present Most 
 Gracious Majesty, 16th October, 1841, and is supported 
 by Parliamentary grants, and endowments contributed by 
 private liberality. It comprises Faculties of Theology, 
 Arts, and Medicine, and has a staff of eleven professors. 
 The College, which is a large and handsome building, is on 
 a rising ground fronting the lake. It has a library, philos- 
 ophical apparatus, and museum. From its central situation, 
 ami the reputation which this University, as a seat of 
 learning, has acquired, the number of matriculated students 
 attending it is annually increasing. In the session of 
 1854-5.0, eleven graduated in arts, and eleven in medicine. 
 The College School is taught in a separate building 
 in the City, and is very efficiently conducted. The Uni- 
 versity of Queen’s College, though the educational instit- 
 ution of the Scottish Church in Canada, is open to students 
 of all denominations, without distinction, exclusion or 
 preference of any kind, and individuals of all denominations 
 have attended, and from year to year attend it. No test 
 is required either on admission, or on graduation ; and 
 while those entrusted with its management have ever held 
 that the youthful mind ought to be imbued with those great 
 doctrines of Christian principle, and practice, in which all 
 
40 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 are agreed, tliere has never been the slightest interfererce 
 with the denominational peculiarities of anj. 
 
 Besides Queen’s Qollege, Kingston enjoys the benefit 
 arising from its being the head quarters of various other 
 educational establishments, such as the College* of Regio 
 polls, (Roman Catholic) the Grammar School, Queen’s 
 College Preparatory, and the Common Schools. There 
 are fifteen Churches belonging to different denominations 
 of Christians. 
 
 In 1853 the opening of a Railroad from Cape Vincent, 
 (U. S.,) (opposite to Kingston) to Rome, where it con- 
 nects with the general railways of the United States, has 
 tended much to develope the resources of Kingston and 
 the adjacent country. 
 
 Lake Ontarioe—American Shore. 
 
 Before descending the St. Lawrence and bidding' fare- 
 well to lake Ontario, for the sake of the tourist who may 
 prefer to steam along the American or Southern shore of 
 the Lake, we shall furnish a few particulars. From 
 the outlet of the Niagara at the Fort of that name to the 
 boundary line 45^, the entire littoral is in the State of 
 New York, and comprises in succession the counties of 
 Niagara, Orleans, Monroe, Wayne, the northern corner 
 of Cayuga, Oswego, Jefferson, and St. Lawrence. The 
 last along its entire western frontier, and a half of Jeffer- 
 son County, are bounded by the River. From Fort 
 Niagara to the mouth of the Genesee River in Munroe 
 County, a distance of about eighty-five miles, the coast 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 41 
 
 presents an almost umleviating level under the primeval 
 brush-wood, relieved by a few scattered clearances. 
 
 Should the tourist on ascending the Genesee to Carthage, 
 which is the port of Rochester, resolve upon visiting this 
 city, he will find enough to engage and gratify his curiosity 
 till he resumes his journey by the next steamer. The road 
 for a mile from Carthage has been excavated to the depth 
 of from sixty to eighty feet, and in some parts overhangs 
 the rugged banks of the river to an equal height, so that 
 the stranger on his return, as he is borne along in the om- 
 nsbus, from its peculiar construction making a regular al- 
 ternation of jolts from side to side, notwithstanding the 
 romantic scenery cannot help yielding to an uncomfortable 
 impression of danger. An Englishman in 1810, having 
 penetrated many miles into the bush, was struck with the 
 wmter advantages which the Genesee afforded, and select- 
 ed for his loghouse a portion of the locality which the 
 wide-spreading Rochester now fills up. Some idea may 
 be formed of its astonishing progress from the fact, that 
 the population, which in 1825 was 5,271, and in 1840 
 20,191, amounts now to about 45,000. This large com- 
 mercial and manufacturing town owes its greatness mainly 
 to the ‘^water privileges” which the proprietors on the banks 
 of the Genesee here possess. For a considerable way above 
 the Upper Falls, the banks are on both sides surmounted 
 by a great variety of mills. Its proximity to Lake 
 Ontario, and the passage of the Erie Canal through its 
 principal streets, contribute materially to its prosperity. 
 A frontage on the river fetches a high price, as from the 
 
42 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 nature of the situation a supply of water from the canal or 
 race can in many cases be rendered available twice or 
 thrice. The aqueduct, by means of which the Canal 
 crosses the river, is eight hundred and four feet long, 
 contains ten acres, and is finished off in a most substantial 
 manner. The vast produce of the Genesee Valley, which 
 stretches sixty or seventy miles, and is unsurpassed in fer- 
 tility even on this Continent, is conveyed thither by the 
 Genesee Canal, and thence to Albany, &c. The passage 
 of the orreat Erie Railroad has contributed its share. The 
 Upper Falls are about one hundred feet in height, and, 
 though much diminished in effect by buildings, still present 
 a magnificent view. In their waters the fool-hardy Sam 
 Patch, buoyed up by one successful plunge in them on a 
 previous occasion, as well as by two at Niagara Falls, in 
 making a second leap, perished in presence of a vast con- 
 course of spectators. The streets of Rochester are wide, 
 and well laid out, containing many first-rate private and 
 public buildings. Of these we may mention the court- 
 house, jail, arcade, and observatory, upwards of a dozen 
 of churches, and abou.t six hotels, &c., <fec. The Mount 
 Hope Cemetery in the vicinity vies in extent and appro- 
 priateness of design and scenery with those of Greenwood 
 near Brooklyn and Laurel Hill at Philadelphia. The 
 water-power of the two falls is estimated as equal to one 
 thousand nine hundred and twenty steam-engines of 
 twenty horse power. Calculated according to the cost of 
 steam power in England, the annual value of this water 
 would amount to nearly ten millions of dollars. A large 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 43 
 
 capital is also invested in cotton and woollen mills, iron- 
 works, tanneries, <fec., &c. — Oswego, the principal 
 commercial port on the American side of the Lake, is 
 pleasantly situated at the mouth of the river of that name. 
 The principal part of the town is on the western bank, and 
 has a neat and stirring appearance. On the opposite 
 bank ar<j some large mills, and here terminates the Oswego 
 Canal from Syracuse, distant about thirty-eight miles, 
 and the Railway from the same place. About 
 half-way betwixt Carthage and Oswego is Great Sod- 
 us Bay. — At the eastern extremity of the Lake, on 
 the south side of BFack River Bay, lies in a very shelter- 
 ed situation Sackett’s Harbour, This was the naval 
 station of the United States on the Lake during the last 
 war with Great Britain. In May, 1813, Sir George 
 Prevost effected a landing with one thousand men, but 
 hastily re-embarked without accomplishing his purpose. 
 The Navy Yard is a conspicuous object upon landing. — 
 About twenty miles north of Sackett’s Harbour, French 
 Creek enters the St. Lawrence. Here, in the begin- 
 ning ot November 1813, General Wilkinson embarked at 
 the head of seven thousand men with the view of descend- 
 ing the St. Lawrence and attacking Montreal, expecting 
 to be reinforced by troops from Plattsburg. Six days 
 thereafter an engagement took place near Williamsburgh 
 on the Canadian shore, when the Americans were worsted. 
 On the arrival of the army at St. Regis, disappointed 
 in his expectation of a reinforcement. General Wilkinson 
 retired to French Mills, and encamped there for the 
 
44 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 winter. This place was subsequently named Fort 
 Covington, in memory of General Covington who fell at 
 the battle of Williamsburgb. 
 
 Kingston to Montreal* 
 
 Opposite Kingston lies a large island, called Wolfe’s 
 Island. It is well settled, having upwards of six thousand 
 acres under cultivation. The stream, which in the course 
 of a few miles issues from the Lake, is now for the first 
 time called the St. Lawrence ; and its channel so expands, 
 and becomes so full of islands, that it obtains the name of 
 the “ Lake of the Thousand Isles.” The sail 
 through those islands has ever been looked forward to by 
 the tourist as one of the most interesting parts of Cana- 
 dian or American scenery, and is indeed a voyage through 
 an enchanted sea of ever-changing beauty. On approach- 
 ing the islands it seems to the spectator as if the vessel 
 steered her course towards the head of a landlocked bay 
 which barred all further progress — coming nearer, a small 
 break in the line of shore opens up, and he enters between 
 what he now discovers, to be islands, and islands which are 
 innumerable — now be sails in a wide channel between more 
 distant shores, again he enters into a strait so narrow that 
 the large paddle boxes of the steamer almost sweep the 
 foliage on either side as she pursues her devious course — 
 now the islands are large, miles in circumference, and 
 again he passes some small as a lady’s work table, shaded 
 by a single tiny tree occupying the handful of earth which 
 represents the dry land.” On all, the trees grow to the 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 45 
 
 water’s edge, and dip their outer branches in the clear 
 blue lake. Sometimes the mirage throws jts air of en- 
 chantment on the whole, and the more distant islands 
 seem floating in mid-heaven — only descending into the 
 lake as a nearer approach dispels the illusion, and when 
 the rushing steamer breaks the fair surface of the water 
 in which all this loveliness is reflected as in a mirror — to 
 quote the words of poor Warburton, the eye docs not 
 weary to see, but tlfe head aches in even wTiting the one 
 word — beauty — wherever you steer over this sweet scene 
 beauty — beauty still.” To see, and really enjoy and 
 appreciate the charms of the Lake of the Thousand Isles, 
 one ought to visit it in a small boat, and spend many days 
 amid its labyrinths ; but we are on board a steamer, and 
 must be content with the passing glance which her rapid 
 and noisy course affords. An hour, or less even, and we are 
 through, — the Islands and the mighty Ontario are left be- 
 hind, and we now emerge into the majestic river, though 
 not to disappointment, for all is grand and beautiful still. 
 The lake we are ju t leaving will be remembered as the 
 scene of the exploits of tije notorious Bill Johnson and his 
 daughter, during the insurrections of 1837—8. A better 
 place for a bold robber to lurk cannot be fancied, and 
 though his character ^nd that of his daughter are too well 
 known for romance writers of the present day to attempt 
 the theme, doubtless the poet and novelist of a future 
 time may easily find the materials tor another Lady of the 
 Lake or Rob Roy in the adventures of the robber and 
 his virago daughter. • 
 
 B 2 
 
46 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 On both shores of the river the traveller observes the 
 settlements of the farmers, with towns and villages on the 
 banks ; we shall notice these immediately, bat, as we are 
 fairly in the stream, let us sail on without halting. 'I'he 
 traveller, as he looks on the river from time to time, will 
 soon remark that the current gains strength, eddies begin 
 to sweep round in wide circles, and the upheaving surges, 
 gently at first but angrily as you proceed, boil and roar 
 around and beneath your vessel — on . she goes faster and 
 still faster — look ahead, the wdiite* crested breakers meet 
 your eye ; while you look, you are in the midst of them, and 
 again you are out into smoother but still rapid water. In 
 this way you pass down the upper rapids — the Galops, Point 
 Iroquois, and some others which do not strike you as 
 anything remarkable. But now the water becomes again 
 agitated, and boils and roars as it rushes down the Long 
 Sault. Look forward to the wheel-house, two men are 
 there now instead of one — look aft, a tiller has been 
 shipped to aid the wheel, and four brawny fellows man it, 
 and in perfect silence w’atch the signals of the pilot, who, 
 with fixed eye and gathered brow, scans the white torrent 
 through which he must steer his fearful course — a tiller 
 rope parted — a rudder band carried aw^ay — a flinching eye 
 — -a mistaken sio-nal — a wron<r turn of the wheel — and 
 before you lies a destruction quick as thought, inevitable 
 as doom. But the. gear is good — pilot and crew staunch 
 and steady — awaij, and you are in the breakers ! Look to 
 the land — the high banks are flying past and are gone ere 
 you can mark their aspect—Iook to the water, it is writh- 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 47 
 
 ing and roaring over the jagged rocks which, in rapid 
 succession, arise around and almost touch your ship as she 
 is flung down the terrible descent — look to your shipmates, 
 the crew and the passengers are alike silent, or point in 
 dumb show to the objects that strike the attention ! Look, 
 ahead — before you, in the very course on which you steer, 
 lies a rock bound islet, the full torrent rushes with fright- 
 ful force and volume against it, and on it you too are borne 
 as if to certain destruction ; but, just when you might expect 
 to feel the crash of rending timbers, the dividing cur- 
 rent catches the vessel under her forefoot, she heels down 
 under the shock — in an instant her bow is swept into a 
 new direction, the threatening rock is under her stern, the 
 island is passed. Gentle reader, the danger is over — and 
 so quickly that, ere you could read our feeble description, 
 the exciting race is run — you have performed the feat of 
 shooting the Long Sault,"^ and, on the calm bosom of 
 Lake St Francis, you may endeavour to comprehend what, 
 in the rapid itself, you had barely time to look upon. 
 While amid the raging torrents your hear nothing, see 
 nothing, feel nothing but the boiling flood that roars and 
 breaks around and over your vessel, but ere the eye had 
 learned to comprehend what it gazes on, the rapid is run 
 — the danger — the excitement, arc passed away like a 
 dream of the night,” And thus from rapid to lake, from 
 lake to boiling current, and from current to rapid ajrain, 
 you pass through Lake St. Francis, the Coteau, the 
 Cedars, the Cascades, Lake St. Louis, i\nd finally, the 
 Lacliine Rapids, below which, and after a day’s journey of 
 
4.8 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 no little variety and excitement, you are landed on the 
 magnificent wharves of the commercial metropolis of He^ 
 Majesty’s American possessions. 
 
 But though we have made such a galop down the river, 
 which, by the way, we could hardly help, we must now 
 make a more leisurely journey, and introduce our readers 
 to the various points of interest which present themselves 
 from Kingston downwards. 
 
 Gananoque, at twenty miles below Kingston, is the 
 first place that the steamer touches at. It is a pretty and 
 thriving village of one thousand inhabitants. Twelve miles 
 below stands Brockville, the County Town of Leeds and 
 Grenville. It has a population of nearly, or perhaps quite 
 five thousand, and is one of the best built towns in 
 Canada West ; the streets are broad, regularly laid out, ami 
 the houses chiefly built of stone, of which there is an 
 abundant supply of a beautiful kind. It contains, besides 
 a Court House, seven Churches, all substantial buildings of 
 the stone alluded to, — and is a place of busy industry ; 
 having an extensive foundry and engine manufactory, with 
 saw and flour mills, and manufactures of cloth, axes, &c., 
 to a very considerable amount. The Grand Trunk 
 Railway passes through the town, and’ adds another 
 element to its causes of prosperity. From this place an 
 excellent road communicates ‘with the town of Perth, 
 which lies north from it at a distance of forty-five mdes. 
 The country in rear is well settled and rapidly improv- 
 ing. Brockville returns a member to parliament. 
 Five miles further down is the village of Maitland, built 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 49 
 
 on the site of an old French Fort, and seven miles below 
 lies Prescott, from which are seen the windmill, and the 
 blackened and ruined houses around, the scene of the 
 wretched attempt at invasion by Schultz and his gang of 
 «ympathisers in 1838. There is no recollection of glory 
 to qualify the details of that miserable affair, where, after 
 a short and hopeless resistance, the leader and his followers 
 were made prisoners. Justice was satisfied with his life 
 alone, which he justly forfeited as a mere brigand and mur- 
 derer — crimes in his case utterly inexcusable, for he was a 
 man both of birth and education. Prescott was at one 
 time a place of considerable importance, but the construc- 
 tion of the Ilideau Canal removed all its trade to King- 
 ston, and for many years its appearance was desolate in the 
 extreme. Now, however, a new impulse has been given to 
 its progress by the opening of tlie Ptailway to Bytown, 
 recently named Ottawa City, and the opening of the 
 Grand Trunk Pvailway. The situation of the village is 
 naturally very pretty, but the effegt is sadly marred by the 
 numerous tanner;es, breweries and distilleries which are 
 built alon^ the watei’s edsfe, with their rears and out- 
 hou-ses to the river. Immediately opposite at a 
 distance of two miles, is seen the beautiful and thriv- 
 ing town of Ogdensburgh, with which there is constant 
 communication by steam ferry-boats. From what we 
 have said the reader will easily see that a briglit future 
 again opens up for Prescott. Steamers for the American 
 side of Lake Ontario and the Canadian side, touch daily 
 both in their upward trips and those downward to Mon- 
 
50 
 
 THE' CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 treal, while passengers for Boston and New York, or 
 Bytown, Toronto, or Montreal, have railway trains for 
 each of these places. At present the population is only 
 two thousand five hundred ; but this must very soon he 
 doubled and trebled. The railways will be mostly used 
 in winter, or by travellers coming from the east, for in 
 summer the run down the rapids is, we imagine, fast enough 
 for any man who can be satisfied with any thing short of 
 telegraph .speed. 
 
 Between Prescott and Dickenson’s Landing, at the 
 head of the Cornwall Canal, a distance of thirty-eight 
 miles, are pas.scd, in .succession, the villages of Matilda, 
 Mariatown and Mcnlinette. The scene of the battle of 
 Chrysler’s Farm, will be pointed out a little below Maria- 
 town — here the American forces experienced a severe 
 defeat in the last war. At Cornwall, which is situated 
 at the lower entrance of the canal of that name, it will be 
 worth while for the traveller to take a look at the locks, 
 which, from their size .and solid construction, are very 
 remarkahlo. The canal is eleven and a half miles long, 
 and has seven locks of magnificent size. In this distance 
 the Long Sault is surmounted by w^estward bound steam- 
 boats and other lake craft. To avoid repetition we may 
 mention here that tbh, with the Beauharnois, Lachine? 
 and one or two shorter canals,, all constVucted on the same 
 great scale, completes the great chain of artificial v/afer 
 communication between Montreal and Lake Ontario, while 
 the Welland Canal unites the last named lake with Lake 
 Erie — a chain of canals unequalled in the world. 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 51 
 
 The town of Cornwall is well laid out, and has a plea- 
 sant situation. It returns a Member to the IToube of 
 Assembly, has a population of two thousand, and a news- 
 paper. Th^ French inhabitants formerly called this place 
 “ Pointe Maline,” from the difficulty they experienced in 
 ascending this portion of the river witli their bateaux . — 
 Opposite to Cornwall lies the Indian village of St. Kegis, 
 where line 45® strikes the St. Lawrence, and forms the 
 boundary between Lower Canada and the State of New 
 York, intersecting, 'also, the tract of land which is the 
 property of this body of Iroquois, numbering in all about 
 one thousand, and about equally British and American. 
 There is a large stone church, which was erected upwards 
 of fifty years ago at their own expense. The Government 
 maintains a French Canadian missionary, who resides 
 permanently at the village, and devotes his whole time to 
 the tribe. A great portion of the shrvicc consists of 
 singing, of which the Indians are passionately fond. . The 
 men procure a precarious subsistence chiefly by hunting, 
 and the women employ themselves in making mitts and 
 moccasins from the skins of animals that have been 
 killed during the winter, and in manufacturing splint 
 baskets and brooms. After passing the Canal the ?t. 
 Lawrence widens into one of those beautiful expanses, 
 called Lakes, which tend not a little to impart variety to 
 the course of this majestic river. Lake St. Francis is 
 forty miles long. About half-way down the lake on the 
 left hand stands the vi'.lage of Lancaster, close to the 
 boundary line between the West and East Provinces. 
 
f)2 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 Here the loyal Glengary Higlilanders raised a Vdvge. cairn 
 or pile of stones (a memotial occasionally erected for 
 warriors of old Scotland) in honour of Sir John Colborne, 
 now Lord Seaton, formerly Governor General. A con- ^ 
 siderable island, called Grand Isle, lies a little below the 
 east end oi the Lake. In order to open up a communica- 
 tion between this Lake and the next expanse, called Lake 
 St. Louis, which is twenty-four miles in length, the 
 Beauharnois Canal has been constructed by the Provin- 
 cial Government. It is eleven-and-a-quarter miles 
 long, and has nine locks. — 'The St. Lawrence, on 
 emerging irom the Cascades, receives- a great influx 
 of water from the Ottawa, and their combined waters 
 form the expanse of Lake St. Louis, at the western 
 extremity of which is the Isle Perrot, and along the north 
 shore i» the Island of Montreal, which is about thirty miles 
 in length. For some distance b^low the junction the 
 brown waters of the Ottawa roll unmixed wdth the clear 
 stream of the St. Lawrence. At the outlet of the Lake 
 on the right is the Iroquois settlement of Caughnaw^aga, or 
 The Village of the Rapids,” in allusion to those that lie 
 a little below. It was granted for their benefit by Louis 
 XIV, in 1680, and enlarged by Governor Frontenac. 
 .These Indians in summer chiefly subsist by navigating barges 
 and rafts down to Montreal, and in winter by the sale of 
 snow-shoes, moccasins, &c. They are Roman Catholics, 
 and sometime since rebuilt their church, which is handsome 
 and substantial. They behaved nobly during the disturb- 
 ances of 1837 and 38, and since that period have received 
 
THE CAT^ADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 53 
 
 special marks of Tier Majesty ''s favour. On the left bank 
 'stands Lachine, the central situation of which bids fair to 
 ensure its growth and prosperity. Here is the residence of 
 Sir George Simpson, Governor of the Hudson’s Bay Com- 
 pany, and of the staff of officers in charge of this, the princi- 
 pal post of the eompany. Hence emanate the instructions, 
 received from head-quarters in London, for the different 
 posts throughout the company’s extensive territories. 
 Towards the latter end of April in each year a body of the 
 company’s people along with experienced voyageurs 
 leave this port in large canoes, called maitre-canoU, in 
 which their chattels and packages are transported via the 
 Ottawa and a tributary on the left to Lake Nipissing, 
 whence is the descent by the Riviere des Fran^ais in Lake 
 Huron. On reaching Fort AVilliam on the banks of Lake 
 Superior the large canoes give pkice to others of a much 
 smaller description, constructed for more convenient tran- 
 shipment across the numerous, portages between the 
 different posts of the company. At Caughnawaga is the 
 ^ depot of the Montreal and Plattsburgh Railway, lying 
 opposite to the village of Lachine ; — between the two 
 shores, a steam ferry-boat runs summer and winter, as here 
 the river never freezes. From Lachine the distance to 
 Montreal is nine miles — the rapids are here surmounted 
 by another canal^ cut at a heavy expense. A rail- 
 way also joins the two places, and although steamers 
 generally descend the great rapids, yet passengers some- 
 times land here and arc carried to the city by the cars. 
 On leaving the wharf, if the traveller will look to the west, 
 
 
54 . 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 he will observe the open lake, on whioh he has just passed, 
 stretching awaj in a noble expanse of water, no land bound- 
 ing his westward view. The followers of Jaccjues Cartier 
 on arriving at this point, two hundred years ago, deceived 
 partly by tlieir own hopes, and partly by the descriptions 
 which the Indians gave thein of the great seas above, 
 imagined that they now looked upon a route which was to 
 conduct them to China, and exclaimed. La Chine ! Hence, 
 according to tradition, the origin of the name still borne 
 by the village. 
 
 Here the stranger will at once feel that he is in a 
 foreign land, among a strange race, for although a great 
 proportion of the people are English, still the masses are 
 French, speaking their own language. Churches, houses, 
 everything wears a different aspect; but we shall remark 
 this more as we proceed, and now hasten on to Montreal. 
 
 Montreal. 
 
 From its favourable situation and fertile soil, Montreal 
 early attracted the attention of the French discoverers who 
 visited and marked it out for settlement under the famous 
 Jacques Cartier. This occurred in 1.535— upwards of 
 three hundred years ago. Even at that/tirae, it was found 
 occupied by the Hurons who had a village here, and a 
 tolerably large space of cleared land around, on which 
 they raised Maize or Indian Corn, and some kinds of 
 vegetables referred to by Champlain. It was not, however, 
 until a century later, that a ( ity was projected and laid 
 out, which on the loth August, 1642, was placed under 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 55 
 
 the protection of the Virgin Mary, and named Ville Marie 
 — which it retained for many years, but long forgotten 
 under its present nam? taken frotn the Mountain, at the 
 base of which it lies. 
 
 The Island of Montreal is formed by the St. Lawrence 
 on the south, and a branch of the great Ottawa on its 
 northern side — at each of the eastern and western ex- 
 tremities the waters of these rivers meet and complete 
 its insular formation. The Island is thirty-four miles 
 in length, by about ten at its greatest breadth, and, with 
 the exception of the Mountain which gives its name to 
 both the town and the island, is nearly level, and one of the 
 most fertile districts of the Province. The whole of this 
 valuable tract of land belonged, and in a great measure 
 still belongs, to the Priests of the Seminary of St. Sul- 
 pice who derive an immense revenue from it— but, under 
 the law of commutation, passed a few years ago, the land 
 is gradually becoming freed from the Seignorial burdens. 
 On the south side of the Mountain, facing the River, along 
 which it extends nearly two and a hali miles, is built the 
 flourishing city, which, though not the Seat of Government 
 at present, is in point of population and wealth as well as in 
 position, the capital of the Province of Canada. Situated 
 at the confluence of two of the the mightiest rivers in the 
 world, and having a free communication with the ocean, 
 though in reality ninety miles above the influence of the 
 tide and upwards of three hundred miles from salt water 
 — it possesses all the advantages of a sea-port ; and as the 
 Lachine rapids forbid any further ascent by sea-going 
 
56 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 ships of any size, it soon became a commercial emporium, 
 destined to encrease from year to year as the developing 
 greatness of the territories along the Western Lakes and 
 the Ottawa shall cal! for new and greater facilities for 
 trade. At present, as may be supposed, its imports and 
 exports are greater than at any other British American 
 port— the value of the former in 1854. being close upon 
 12,000,000 of dollars and of the latter about 2,500,000 
 dollars, and employing *on an average 4500 vessels of 
 all kinds. Thetiity, which is built in a somewhat irregular 
 form, is laid out in straight streets, all the public buildings, 
 and indeed, all the private dwellings and stores of any 
 pretension, are constructed of a beautiful lime-stone, bear- 
 ing much the appearance of the celebrated Aberdeen 
 granite. At present, in the outskirts and back streets, 
 many houses of wood are still in existence, but since the 
 great lire in 1852 a Bye-law of the Corporation requires 
 all new house* to be built of stone or brick — so that in 
 the course of a few years, decay and improvements, with 
 fires, accidental or otherwise, will have probably swept 
 away all of wood that remains. 
 
 In Montreal and its environs, the traveller will find 
 much to interest him, and if he will accompany us in a 
 couple of promenades, we shall endeavour to point out to 
 him all that is most worthy of remark — beginning at the 
 St. Lawrence or Donegana’s Hotel, from one of which 
 
 we shall start to visit the Catholic Parish Church, best 
 known to strangers as the French Cathedral. The great 
 size of this building certainly constitutes its chief claim 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 57 
 
 ^or observation. It is of what is called the perpendicular 
 Gothic style of the architecture of the middle ages, and is 
 entirely destitute of ornament : nevertheless, it is both 
 grand and simple, and is, we believe the largest church of 
 any kind on this continent, or at all events in ^orth 
 America. The main entrances are from the front, facing 
 on Place d’Armes,£ind between two square towers, form- 
 ing with the doors the front of the building. The towers 
 are two hundred and twenty feet high, that to the west 
 is always open, and a good stair-case leads to the top. 
 The ascent is well worth undertaking, for from the sum- 
 mit a complete view is obtained of the whole city and sur- 
 rounding country — the former lying at the spectator’s feet, 
 and enabling him to count every street, lane, and garden 
 in the place. The interior is not striking, except for 
 size. One or two of the shrines may attract attention 
 on account of the quantity af silver displayed in can- 
 dlesticks, and figures of our Saviour on the cross. The 
 spaces between the confessionals and over the altar are 
 covered with paintings of Saints and Martyrs, shining 
 with varnish and bright colours, but none possessing much 
 merit. If the stranger happens to be present on a f6tc 
 day, when the church is filled, he will see it to the best ad- 
 vantage— for, calculated to contain without crowding ten 
 thousand persons,‘«uch an immense assemblage within one 
 building for solemn worship and accompanied with the 
 striking ceremonies and pomp of the Roman Catholic 
 church, is indeed an imposing sight. This church 
 boasts the possession of a magnificent set of bells, one of 
 
58 
 
 the Canadian tourisi>. 
 
 which weighing thirteen tons is hung in the western tower, 
 and IS the largest bell in America. Thus the Parish 
 Church 0- Cathedral, if not very attractive in point of 
 beauty of architecture or paintings, is remarkable as the 
 argest church, having the largest congregation, and the 
 largest bell in the New World. Under the church, the 
 entire space is occupied by a cemetery— in which the more 
 wealthy of the Roman Catholics are interred. At present, 
 however, these interments are discouraged, as the new 
 cemetery lately opened, of which we shall speak hereafter, 
 IS justly considered a more appropriate and more beautiful 
 resting place. 
 
 Adjoining the Cathedral is a handsome stone building, 
 at present only finished to the extent of half the propose'd 
 plan. This is the Seminary of St. Sulpice. In this 
 building is transacted all the parochial business, and also 
 the secular affairs connected with the very valuable pro- 
 perty belonging to the body. A certain number of the 
 gentlemen of the order find very full employment in 
 these duties— and we may add that the liberal and ex- 
 ceedingly polite manner in which they conduct their money 
 transactions have earned for them the gratitude of bun- 
 dreds,and kind feelings from all who ever have had occasion 
 to treat with them. As the name denotes, the institution is 
 chiefly for educational purposes — and among others, the 
 College is the principal establishment which they support. 
 The buildings used for the College are still in Foundling 
 btreet j but the wants of the town and other causes, such 
 as better air and a finer situation have induced the priests 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 59 
 
 of the Seminary to commence a new College in the out- 
 skirts of the town, on the high ground which was formerly 
 in part occupied by the Catholic burying ground. There, 
 temporary but very extensive brick buildings have been 
 erected, and are now occupied by the Director atjd Pro- 
 fessors with the pupils, both lay and ecclesiastical. The 
 staff of the College consists of a Pvector, four Professors^ 
 and eight Tutors. 1 he course of study is eight years, and 
 embraces Classics, Pheforic, Belles Lettres, Mathematics 
 and Natural Philosophy^ as also t e preliminary training of 
 those intended for the Church. Be^ides this the princi- 
 pal establishment, the ^r^eminary have schools for instruction 
 in the more ordinary branches of education, both in the 
 city and neighbourhood, at the sametime liberally aiding 
 other Catholic educational and religious institutions — and 
 even aiding in the material improvement of the city by an 
 advance of $100,000 for the Portland and Montreal Rail- 
 road, at a time when difficulties of no ordinary kind seemed 
 to threaten the suspension of this, the first link in the now 
 all but completed Grand Trunk Railway of Canada. 
 
 On the opposite side of the square or Place d’Armes, 
 are the Bank of Montreal and the City Bank. The first 
 is a beautiful building of the Corinthian style, and was 
 erected at a cost of $100,000. The fluted columns and 
 florid capitals with the other ornamental work of the front 
 are deservedly admired as specimens of sculpture, and arc 
 almost, if not altogether, the work of French Canadian 
 masons — though this is by no means the only proof of 
 their skill which we shall point out as we proceed. The 
 
60 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 design of the Bank of Montreal was furnished bj Mr. 
 Wells, of this city, Architect, under whose superintendance 
 the building was erected. The City Bank is a substan- 
 tial building, and well adapted for the purpose for uhich 
 it was erected. The square, which till of late was an 
 open space of ground covered with rubbish, is now taste- 
 fully enclosed, planted with thriving trees, and laid out into 
 flower beds. 
 
 Leaving the Place d’Arraes we shall turn down a nar- 
 row street, passing along the east side, of the church, from 
 which perhaps, quite as well as from tlie front, an idea may 
 be formed of its large proportions— continuing down this 
 street we shall emerge on the wharves. These, the peo- 
 ple of Montreal are justly proud of, as the most substan- 
 tially built of a-ny similar work in America. Com- 
 mencing at a point opposite the market-house they extend 
 up to the entrance of the Lachine Canal, a distance of 
 about a mile and a half, forming a broad roomy space for 
 carts and carriages, with docks, jettys, and basins, inter- 
 spersed, and giving great accomodation for shipping of all 
 kinds — yet not enough, as the increasing commerce of the 
 city from year to year calls for great additions to the docks. 
 The carriage way is backed all its length by a high wall 
 of very solid masonry, supporting the higher ground on 
 which the city is built: on4he plateau above runs another 
 wide street parallel with the wharves, and along this 
 street are built, besides the market-house and barracks, 
 a continuous line of lofty stone stores facing the river. 
 Tliis, both ill a commercial and scenic point of view, is 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 61 
 
 decidedly the most interesting part of the city. In the 
 foreground, are the wharves, the docks, and shipping 5 be- 
 yond, stretches the St. Lawrence expanding towards 
 Laprairie into a great lake — to the west, the river is shut 
 in apparently by Nun’s Island, to the east, by that of St. 
 Helens, both covered with magnificent maple, birch and 
 hickory trees. On the opposite side, the low fertile land ot 
 St. Lambert and the County of Huntingdon stretches 
 away till the view is bounded by the high hills of the 
 Townships and the State of Vermont. Immediately 
 opposite the city may be seen the wharf of the New York 
 and St. Lawrence Hailway Company, with its buildings 
 and machine simps, and below Nun’s Island are seen 
 several of the gigantic piers now in course of construction 
 to receive the Tubular Bridge intended to span the St. 
 Lawrence, and which, when completed, will be one of the 
 wonders of the world. Confining ourselves m the mean- 
 time to the city, let us walk along the upper wall of the 
 wharves to the Bonsecours Market. This is a magnificent 
 pile of building in the Doric style erected at a cost of 
 $ 280 , 000 , and is said to be the finest market house on this 
 continent. On the basement story are extensive accom- 
 modation for the sale of fish, vegetables, fruit and pork, 
 and a range of ice-houses for those who occupy the dif- 
 ferent stalls ; in the story above, which is entered from St. 
 Paul Street, there on a level with it, are the stalls of the 
 butchers, all well lighted and aired, with a wide promenade 
 between the two ranges. Above this story are the 
 offices of the Corporation, and Council Chamber, which 
 B 3 
 
 f 
 
62 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 occupy the half of this story ; the other half is a large con- 
 cert and ball room, capable of containing four thousand 
 persons comfortably seated. If the stranger has been 
 deterred by the fatigue of ascending the tower of the 
 Cathedral, we should recommend him to mount to the 
 dome of the market-house, which is easily done, and from 
 which the view of the river and St. Helen’s Isle is ex- 
 ceedingly beautiful. 
 
 From the market place we may now proceed by Place 
 Jacques Qartier to the Court House, remarking as we go 
 that this place, until a few years ago, was disfigured by a 
 long low range of sheds occupied as a market. These are 
 now happily removed ; and, the whole being planted, will 
 ere long add another ornament to Montreal. At the head 
 will be seen a column erected to the memory of England’s 
 greatest naval hero. Lord Nelson. Time an J the severity 
 of the winter have injured the bas-reliefs on the four sides 
 of the pediment ; but even now they are worthy of an 
 examination for their beauty of design and conception. 
 It is not creditable to the citizens that this monument 
 should be permitted to remain so long in its present dila- 
 pidated state. Crossing Notre Dame Street is the Court 
 House, which was only finished last spring. 
 
 Though the architecture and plan of this building have 
 been much criticised, it is nevertheless an imposing pile, 
 and is one of the most striking objects in the city. It has 
 cost about $200,000 — a sum which is raised by a tax on 
 all the proceedings had within its walls, aided by wdiat is 
 collected from tavern-licences in the District of Montreal. 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 63 
 
 Thus the unlucky litigant, in addition to the loss of his suit, 
 is compelled to pay part of the cost of the building wherein 
 he, of course, believes he has met with injustice , — he 
 at all events cannot be expected to admire it. The 
 ground plan is three hundred by one hundred and twenty- 
 five feet, and seventy-six feet in height. On the ground 
 floor are vaults for the records, all fire proof, the Keeper’s 
 rooms and Office of the Clerk of the Peace, &cc. On the 
 two upper stories are five Court Rooms, Judges’ Chambers, 
 Advocates’ Library, Prothonotary’s and Sheriff's Offices 
 — all of spacious dimensions and handsomely finished. 
 As some one or more of the courts, civil or criminal, are 
 almost always in session, a visit will amuse the stranger 
 from the curious mixture of French and English in which 
 the proceedings are carried on, for though all the Judges 
 and nearly all the lawyers speak both languages, yet each 
 addresses the Court for the most part in his own, so that 
 to the visitor ignorant of French it is a scene of Babel- 
 like confusion. 
 
 It would weary our friends were we to ask them to read 
 a particular notice of all the other public buildings of 
 Montreal, and, therefore, we shall content ourselves by 
 merely enumerating the principal and indicating the streets 
 in which they are situated, in order that those who are so 
 disposed may know where to find them. Besides the 
 Parish Church or Cathedral, the Catholic churches are 
 St. Patrick’s at the west end of Lagauchetiere Street, 
 occupying a commanding position, but, though very con- 
 spicuous, possessing no great architectural attractions ; 
 
64 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 the Bishop’s Church in St. Denis Street, a very hand- 
 some structure, erected since the great fire of 1852, the 
 old building having been at that time destroyed with about 
 a third of the city ; the Ilecollet Church, in Notre Dame 
 Street ; the Boiisecours Church, near the large market ; 
 and St. Mary’s Church, in Griffintown. There are also 
 chapels attached to all the Nunneries, and in some of these 
 are to be found fine paintings. Of Nunneries there are 
 three. The Grey Nuns, on Foundling Street, founded in 
 1692, for the care of lunatics and children. The Hotel 
 Dieu, founded in 164*4, for the sick in general. Both of 
 these institutions are exceedingly well managed, and inde- 
 pendently of the good the sisters do within their own walls, 
 their devoted kindness to the sick out of doors is beyond 
 all praise and has been often heroically shown in times of 
 cholera and ship fever, on which occasions many of these 
 ladies have sacrificed their lives in the cause of their 
 sufi'ering fellow-creatures, without distinction of nation or 
 creed. 
 
 The third is the Black or Congregational Nunnery in 
 Notre Dame Street, founded in 1659. Here, the sister- 
 hood devote themselves to the education of young persons 
 of their own sex. The education afforded is of a very 
 superior description. 
 
 The stranger who desires to see any of the Nuniieries 
 ought to apply to the Lady Superior for admission, which 
 is rarely refused to respectable people, and the utmost 
 politeness is invariably shewm to visitors, though, from 
 their number at certain seasons, the patience of the gentle 
 Nuns must be often sadly tried. 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 65 
 
 We have already mentioned the Seminary and its 
 College, but besides this, independent of ordinary schools, 
 there is a large new College in Bleury Street, under the 
 charge of the Jesuits. This institution is much lauded, and 
 has already risen to great favour with the Roman Catholic 
 population. 
 
 The Protestant Churches worthy of notice are St. 
 Andrew’s Church in Beaver Hall, a beautiful specimen of 
 Gothic architecture, being a close imitation of Salisbury 
 Cathedral in England, though of course on a greatly re- 
 duced scale. This, with St. Paul’s Church, in St. Helen 
 Street, are in connection with the Established Church of 
 Scotland. The Episcopalian Churches are, the Cathedral 
 or Christ’s Church in Notre Dame Street, St. George’s 
 Church in St. Joseph Stoet, St. Stephen’s in GrilBntown, 
 Trinity in St. Paul Street, and St. Thomas’ in St. 
 Mary Street. Various other denominations of Christians 
 have Churches — the Wesleyans, a large and very hand- 
 some building, in St. James Street, and also others in Clrif- 
 fintown and Montcalm Street ; the Independents two, one 
 in Gosford Street and one in Ptadegonde Street. This last 
 was the scene of the sad riot and loss of life on the occas- 
 sion of Gavazzi’s lecture in 1852. The Free Church has 
 also two places of worship, one in Cot6 Street, and one in 
 St. Gabriel Street — besides these there are the American 
 and the United Presbyterian, the Baptist, and the Unita- 
 rian Churches, a small Jewish Synagogue, the last named 
 beins: classical in design. 
 
 Jhe other most conspicuous public buildings are the 
 
66 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 Bank of British North America, the Commercial Bank, 
 the People’s Bank, the Odd Fellows’ Hall, the Mechanic’s 
 Institute, and the Post Office, all in Great St. James 
 Street ; and all buildings of a plain and substantial char- 
 acter, well suited for the various j>urposes for which they 
 have been built. Between St. Paul Street and the 
 River stands .the Custom House, a neat building put up 
 about twenty years ago, on the site of an old market 
 place. In St. Sacrament Street, which the stranger will 
 'not find without a guide, is the MerciianPs Exchange and 
 Reading Room. This latter is a very large and com- 
 fortable room, and fully supplied with English and Ameri- 
 can Newspapers and Periodicals — the use of which is 
 thrown open to strangers upon a simple introduction by any 
 member. If the architecture of the Exchange has any 
 claim to merit, and we do n^it say it has not, the situation in 
 one of the narrowest streets in the city completely prevents 
 its being seen. 3 n addition to these we may mention the Ge- 
 nera! tTosnital in Dorchester Street, and the St. Patrick’s, 
 also in the same street, but at the west end of the town ; 
 McGill College, beautifully situated at the base of the 
 mountain, and the High School Department of the Col- 
 lege in Belmont Street, but the two last claim a less 
 cursory notice. 
 
 M‘Gill College owes its endowment to the munificent 
 bequest of the late Hon’ble. James McGill, an opulent 
 merchant of Montreal, who, in the year 18 14<, bequeathed 
 the property of Burnside, on which the College is built, 
 together with J04<O,OOO, for the advancement of learning 
 
THE CA.NADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 67 
 
 in Lower Canada. 'Fhe delays of the law and various 
 unforeseen circumstances prevented the proper application 
 of this bequest until a very few years ago. Now, how- 
 ever, it is in full working order, and under very able 
 management, and already exercises a highly salutary in- 
 fluence on the youth both of the city and Province, — an 
 influence which must increase as its benefits become known 
 and felt. 
 
 The management of the affairs of the College is under 
 the Governor General, as Visitor, and ten Governors ; and 
 the various branches of a liberal education aie under the 
 direction of a large staff of Professors and Lecturers, at 
 the head of whom stands J. W. Dawson, Esq., well 
 known for his scientific attainments both on this Continent 
 and in Europe. The course of education is embraced 
 within four long sessions, beginning on the lOtli September 
 and ending on the 1st of Vlay in each year, and is con- 
 ducted on the principle of lectures and examinations on 
 all tliH branches of the Faculties of Arts, Law and 
 Medicine, in each of which degrees are granted. 
 
 Connected with the College is the High School, under 
 a Hector and four Assistants for the Classics and the 
 other ordinary branches of education, together also with 
 teachers of French and German, Drawing and Music, 
 and a Preparatory School for the younger pupils. 
 
 The basis of the education offered in this College is 
 broad and liberal, every thing of sectarian or party 
 spirit being ignored witiiin its walls. Its advantages are 
 open and equal to all classes, and as a stimulus to ex- 
 
68 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 ertion, twenty-five free scholarships have been created to 
 be bestowed as the reward of superior attainments, We 
 could add much that might be interesting as to the advan- 
 tages of this rising institution, but our limits forbid us en- 
 tering further into detail. We may only remark that 
 strangers are cordially invited to visit the University and 
 the High School in connection with it, when every means 
 will be furnished to enable them to judge for themselves 
 
 of the facilities and advantages offered by both insti- 
 tutions. 
 
 Independent of the educational establishments, Protes 
 tant and Catholic, which we have rnentione«l, and also o 
 the various private schools in the city, we may mention the 
 Natural History Society, the Tnstitut Canadien, the Mer- 
 cantile Library Society, and the Mechanics’ Institute — 
 all designed for the promotion of learning among the 
 various classes of society. 
 
 We have already referred to the Lachine Canal, and 
 pursuing the subject, we recommend the stranger to visit 
 the locks and basins at the point of junction with the 
 harbour, where he will find much to admire in the solid and 
 massive works there constructc^d. Continuing along the 
 canal beyond the city pioper, he will lirst remark a great 
 number of buildings of somewhat extensive size, put up for 
 manufacturing purposes, and deriving their motive power 
 from the canal. Though manufactures have been but lately 
 introduced, already all the water power that the canal 
 can afford has been taken up, and people now look for 
 the means of making available the immense capabilities 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 69 
 
 of the Rapids of the River St. Lawrence above tlie 
 City. Though there is nothing new in these manu- 
 factories, their number and variety are satisfactory proofs 
 of what a few years will develope in this branch of 
 industry. Turning from the canal to the river, the 
 Station of the Grand Trunk Rail-way is reached, and 
 from thence a short walk leads to the commencement 
 of the Victoria Bridge, and from the embankment 
 running out into the river may be seen some of the gigan- 
 tic piers already finished, and several now in course 
 of construction, to receive the iron tunnels on which 
 the railway is to be laid. If possible, these should be 
 visited to enable the mind and eye to understand, from the 
 Titanic size of the stones and erections, the force of ice 
 that science thus calculates upon defying. This monstrous 
 structure will be over a mile ani three quarters in length, 
 or 9437 feet, and will rest on twenty-four piers, and two 
 solid abutments. It will be on the tubular principle, such 
 as the Britannia Bridge, across the Menai Straits. The 
 principal span, that over the deep or ship channel, will be 
 of the extraordinary length of three hundred and thirty 
 feet, and at an elevation of sixty feet over the summer 
 level of tlie water, sufficient to allow of the largest lake 
 craft or steamer to pass under without striking even a 
 Royal. The total cost is estimated at '$7, .^00, 000 ; 
 an immense expenditure, doubtless, but which is perfectly 
 warranted by the great benefit which the bridge will 
 confer upon the whole railway system and trade of the 
 Province. 
 
70 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 From the abutment whence we have examined the works 
 above described, the stranger, before turning towards 
 the town, would do well to drive out a distance of a mile or 
 so further to the Engine-House of the new Water Works. 
 This undei taking has been constructed hy the city at an 
 expense of $800,000, and is only now finished. The water 
 from the river, immediately above the rapids, is conducted 
 by a canal five miles long to a basin or settling cistern, 
 where two large wheels, thirty-six feet in diameter, play 
 upon two force pumps, which drive the water through iron 
 pipes for about three miles to a double reservoir imme- 
 diately behind McGill College on the mountain. 
 
 These reservoirs are well worthy of a visit, were it only 
 for the view of the city and surrounding country, afforded 
 from the stone embankment. Strictly speaking, there is 
 but one reservoir, divided for convenience of cleaning into 
 two by a solid stone wall, and capable of containing 
 20,000,000 of gallons. These basins have been cut 
 entirely from the solid rock, of which the mountain is 
 formed, — the rock itself forming three parts of the oval 
 shaped basin ; the rest, or that part next to the city, be- 
 ing built of huge solid blocks of the same rock joined with 
 Roman cement. Thence, at an elevation of upwards 
 of two hundred feet above the river, the water is conducted 
 throughout the whole city, and m the utmost abundance 
 and purity, besides having this great advantage that the 
 elevation from which it flows will force it over the level of 
 the highest houses in the town beneath. The utility of 
 this in cases of fire is self evident. 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 71 
 
 We have now pointed out all that is worthy of notice in 
 the city itself, but there are various points of interest in 
 the neighbourhood, which we must invite our tourist to 
 visit. And first we may note the M punt Hoy al Cemetery, 
 about two miles from the town on the northern slope of 
 the mountain. From the high road leading round its 
 base a broad avenue through the wooded hill-side 
 ascends gradually to the cemetery, which is entered through 
 a large gate before the house of the superintendant. 
 At present, the broad avenue we have mentioned, ends at 
 the gate of the Protestant Cemetery, but as the adjoining 
 ground is occupied as a Roman Catholic Cemetery, it is 
 intended that the road shall be continued till it meets the 
 highway near Cote des Neiges, and thus form an exceed- 
 ingly beautiful drive round the shoulder of the mountain. 
 The Catholic Cemetery was only opened in the spring of 
 last year, and though a good deal has been done, it will be 
 some time ere the grounds are thoroughly laid out. The 
 visitor, after continuing up any of the various carria<»*e- 
 ways and walks which intersect the grounds of the Protest- 
 ant Cemetery in all directions, finds himself in a wooded 
 valley or rather basin, opening towards the north, and shut 
 in on all other sides by the mountain. A few years ago this 
 was entirely covered with trees and underwood, with the 
 exception of an old clearing of about twenty acres. At pre- 
 sent one hundred and twenty acres are enclosed and laid out 
 into one of the most romantic and secluded buryinggrounds 
 in the world. Let us pass by the walks leading upwards 
 remarking as we go the many tasteful and afiectionate 
 
72 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 memorials of the dead around us, until we reach the sum- 
 mit of the mountain itself, which from this side is easy, 
 and let us survey the lovely picture stretched out before 
 us. At our feet lies the city of the dead— a city that, 
 though founded but yesterday as it were, already numbers 
 its tenants by thousands. The whole interior area is laid 
 out into carriage drives and narrow footpaths for pedes- 
 trians through the trees ; these last have only been thinned 
 out and removed to such an eKtent as to give the whole the 
 appearance of a park — beneath and among the trees are the 
 graves and burying places of the citizens. Many of these 
 are handsomely enclosed and planted \vith flowers and ever- 
 greens — others merely marked out by the low mound that 
 rests upon the bosom of the poor or forgotten dead. Be- 
 yond lies a wide level country, dotted with the white cot- 
 tages and farm buildings of the halntans, with the Ottawa 
 rolling its dark waters through the plain, and separating 
 the Island of Montreal from the Isle Jesus. For a great 
 distance tie eye dwells upon cultivated farms till the 
 clearings are lost and bounded by a desert of primeval 
 forest, as yet untenanted save by the deer and bear, and 
 seldom disturbed except by the few hunters who, at cer- 
 tain seasons, invade these solitudes in pursuit of such game. 
 Turning to the south, the city is seen stretching its length 
 along the St. Lawrence, here spread out in all \is bnght- 
 njess and grandeur, its glad blue waves sparkling and 
 dancing in the sunshine, and bearing on its bosom tbe 
 hundred sails of its schooners, steamers, and ocean ships, 
 batteaux of the Canadian, and canoes of the Indian. 
 
the CANADIAN TOURIST, 
 
 73 
 
 Navigation here offers illustrations of its every phase 
 from the first rude effort of the savage to the floating 
 palace of the transatlantic steamer. On the opposite 
 or southern shore, with the Village - of Laprairie and the 
 Railway Stations at St. Lambert and Longueuil in the 
 foreground, stretches away another wide extent of culti- 
 vated country— with the Mountains of the Eastern Town- 
 ships, Vermont and New York lifting their summits in the 
 distance, and bounding the view of the spectator. All 
 around, the prospect is most varied and most striking ; but 
 that which will be the most impressive is the contrast be- 
 tween the cities of the living and the dead. Separated 
 by the mountain ridge on which we stand, there we look 
 upon the houses of the rich, the cottages of the poor, 
 churches, markets, quays, railways, busy streets, thousands 
 of active men, each fulfilling his destiny in his ephemeral 
 existence; and here lie in* silence the dead — they who 
 built that city, those churches and markets — they who 
 lived, and prayed, and toiled there, all rest here in peace 
 now that their race is ended. But we may now go — still, 
 stranger, look once more around on all the glorious land- 
 scape — you may travel far, and you may have seen much 
 that is lovely in other lands ; but you can seldom see so 
 bright, so varied, so gay, and yet so sad a scene as this 
 upon which you now gaze. 
 
 Descending by any of the various roads we have 
 alluded to, the visitor may again enter his carriage 
 at the gate, and finish his excursion by a' drive round the 
 mountain, which will well repay the time, and, entering 
 
74 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 the city by the Monkland’s road, will pass through what 
 may be called the new town. This drive wdll give him an 
 opportunity of seeing the greater number of the villas of 
 the wealthiest classes of the city, and so form some idea 
 of the taste of its inhabitants. Monklands he will pass 
 on his left, as he descends the westerly part of the 
 mountain. This was formerly the abode of the Governor 
 of the Province ; but since the days of Lord Elgin it has 
 not been honoured by the sunshine of Vice-Royalty, 
 and is now occupied as an educational establishment for 
 young ladies, under charge of the Nuns of the Congre- 
 gation. Before re-entering the city on the left will be 
 seen a large pile of buildings in course of erection. This, 
 wdth the ground surrounding, belongs to the Seminary of 
 St. Sulpice, and is known as “ the Priest’s Farm.” 
 An old fashioned building stands here, with a high 
 wall surrounding it, and entered by a broad gate flanked 
 by two Norman towers, which give a quaint and ancient 
 look to the whole, and which, in spite of the elegance of 
 the modern building, we confess we should be sorry to see 
 lost ; although, it is said to be the intention to remove it, 
 whenever the new structure is completed. 
 
 Besides this excursion, the tourist will find his trouble 
 well repaid by a visit to the Sault-au-Pvecollet, which are 
 a series of rapids at the northern side of the Island, on 
 the branch of the Ottawa called La Pviviere des Prairies. 
 Here, besides the beauty of the scenery, he may see the 
 rafts from the Ottawa making the descent — an exciting 
 exploit both to the spectators and crews — though from the 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 75 
 
 extreme rarity of accidents we must conclude that tiie skill 
 of the voyageurs has taught them to avoid any real danger. 
 
 ^We must now hurry on our journey, having perhaps 
 detained our readers too long while pointing •out tlie beau- 
 ties of the Queen City of Canada. W e shall, therefore, 
 conclude our remarks by one or two observations of a 
 purely statistical nature. 
 
 The stranger will, ere he has been many hours in the 
 city, see that the inhabitants represent, in very unequal 
 numbers, the two kingdoms of Great Britain and France. 
 According to the last census in 1851-2, the total popula- 
 tion of the city was given as fifty-seven thousand seven 
 hundred and fifteen, and is now we may safely say sixty 
 five thousand or more. According to the same authority the 
 inhabitants of French origin were twenty-six thousand and 
 twenty ; Irish, Catholic and Protestant, eleven thousand 
 seven hundred and thirty-six ; Scotch three thousand one 
 hundred and fifty ; English two thousand eight hundred and 
 fifty-eight. In these figures, so far as the classification of 
 nationalities is concerned, we have no great confidence, 
 and, moreover, the proportions are rapidly changing by 
 the greatly increasing numbers of the Anglo-Saxon part 
 of the population — an increase which will in many years 
 tend to equalise the two races. 
 
 In Montreal are published twenty-five newspapers and 
 other periodicals, of these five are French for twenty-six 
 thousand people of that origin, and twenty English for 
 the eighteen thousand who speak that language — a dispro- 
 portion which we would anxiously desire to see lessened. 
 
76 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 Before continuing our journey to the East, we must 
 again pause to point out the various features of attraction 
 offered by a trip ©n the River Ottawa, of which we have 
 lately so often spoken. 
 
 The Ottawa# 
 
 This river, and the vast fertile territory which it drains, 
 has hitherto been, in a great measure, abandoned to the 
 operations of the lumberman, and the comparatively few 
 farmers who have followed his steps ; but, latterly, its 
 capabilities as an agricultural country have gradually 
 attracted a greater degree of attention, which the pro- 
 posal of connecting its waters with Lake Huron and the 
 far West will greatly increase. Of the rnagnitnde of the 
 river, the riches ofMts banks, and the beauty of the 
 scenery, we cannot better speak than by making use of 
 the excellent Report lately made by a Committee of the 
 House of Assembly on Railways. 
 
 “ The length of the course of the Ottawa River is about 
 780 miles. From its source it bends in a south-west 
 course, and after receiving several tributaries from the 
 height of land separating its waters from the Hudson’s 
 Bay, it enters Lake Temiscamiug. From its entrance 
 into this lake downward the course of the Ottawa has been 
 surveyed, and is well known. 
 
 ‘‘ At the head of the lake the Blanche River falls in, 
 coming about ninety miles from the north. Thirty-four 
 miles farther down the lake it receives the Montreal 
 River, coming one hundred and twenty miles from the 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 77 
 
 north-west.” Six miles lower down on the east, or Lower 
 Canada bank it receives the Keepawa-sippi, a large river 
 which has its origin in a lake of great size, hitherto but 
 partially explored, and known as Lake Keepawa. This 
 lake is connected with another chain of irregularly shaped 
 lakes, from one of which proceeds the River du Moine, 
 which enters the Ottawa about a hundred miles below the 
 mouth of the Iveepaw'a-sippi, the double discharge from 
 the same chain of lakes in opposite directions presents a 
 phenomenon similar to the connection between the Orinoco 
 and Rio ^egro in South America. The JECeepawa-sippi 
 has never been surveyed, but or( a partial survey of the 
 Lake from which it proceed.s, it was found flowing out 
 with a slow and noiseless current, very deep, and about 
 three hundred feet in width j its middle course is unknown, 
 but some rafts of timber have been taken out a few miles 
 above the mouth. It is stated in the Report, from which 
 we quote, that there is a cascade at its mouth one hundred 
 and twenty feet in height ; this is a fable j the total de- 
 scent from the Lake to the Ottawa may be one hundred 
 and twenty feet, but there is no fall at the mouth of the 
 river. 
 
 k rom the Long Sault at the foot of Lake Temiscam- 
 iog, two hundred and thirty-three miles above Bytown, 
 and three hundred and sixty miles from the mouth 
 of the Ottawa, down to Deux .Toachim Rapids,* at the 
 head of the Deep River, that is for eighty-nine miles, 
 the Ottawa with the exception of seventeen miles below 
 the Long Sault, and some other intervals, is not at present 
 
78 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 navigable except for canoes. Besides other tributar- 
 ies in the interval, at a hundred and ninety-seven miles 
 from Bytown, now called Ottawa, it receives on the west 
 side tile Malta wan, which is the highway for canoes going 
 to Lake Huron, by Lake Nipissing. From the Mattawan 
 the Ottawa flows east by south to the head ofDeepBiver 
 reach, nine miles above which it receives the Biver Du 
 Moine from the north. 
 
 “ From the head of Deep River, as this part of the Ot- 
 tawa is called, to the foot of Upper Allumette Lake, two 
 miles below the village of Pembroke, is an uninterrupted 
 reach of navigable water, forty-three miles in length. 
 The general direction of the river in this part is south- 
 east. The mountains along the north side of Deep River 
 are upwards of a thousand feet in height, and the many 
 wooded islands of Allumettes Lake render the scenery of 
 this part of the Ottawa magnificent and exceedingly pic- 
 turesque — far surpassing the celebrated Lake of the 
 Thousand Islands on the St. Lawrence. 
 
 Passing the short rapid of Allumettes, and turning 
 northward, round the lower end of Allumettes Island, 
 which is fourteen miles long, and eight at its greatest 
 wddth, and turning down south-east through Coulonge 
 Lake, and passing behind the nearly similar Islands of 
 Calumet, to the head of the Calumet Falls, the Ottawa 
 presents, with the exception of one slight rapid, a reach of 
 fifty miles of navigable water. The mountains on the 
 north side of Coulonge Lake, which rise apparently to 
 the height of fifteen hundred feet, add a degree of 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 79 
 
 grandeur to tlie scenery, which is in other respects beau- 
 tiful and varied. In the Upper Allumettes Lake, a hun- 
 dred and fifteen miles from Ottawa, the river receives 
 from the west the Petawawee, one of its largest tributaries. 
 This river is a hundred and forty miles in length, and 
 drains an area of two thousand two hundred square miles. 
 At Pembroke, nine miles lower down on the same side, an 
 inferior stream, the Indian River, also empties itself into 
 the Ottawa. 
 
 At the head of Lake Coulonge, the Ottawa 
 receives from the north, the Black River, a hundred 
 and thirty miles in length, draining an area of eleven 
 hundred and twenty miles; and nine miles lower, on the 
 same side, the Puver Coulonge, which is probably a 
 hundred and sixty miles in length, with a valley of eighteen 
 hundred square miles. 
 
 ^ From the head of the Calumet Falls to Portage du 
 Fort, the head of the Steamboat navigation, a distance of 
 eight miles, are impassable rapids. Fifty miles above the 
 city the Ottawa receives on the west the Bonnechere, 
 a hundred and ten miles in length, draining an area of nine 
 hundred and eighty miles. Eleven miles lower, it receives 
 the Madawaska, one of its greatest feeders, a river two 
 hundred and ten miles in lenath, and draining four thous- 
 and one hundred square miles. 
 
 Thirty-seven miles above Ottawa there is an inter- 
 ruption in the navigation, caused by three miles of rapids 
 and falls, to pass which a railroad has been made. At 
 the foot of the rapids, the Ottawa divides among islands 
 
80 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 into numerous channels, presenting a most imposing array 
 of separate falls. 
 
 Six miles above Ottawa begin the rapids terminating 
 in the Ottawa Cbaudidre Falls, which, inferior in impres- 
 sive grandeur to the Falls of Niagara, are perhaps more 
 permanently interesting, as presenting greater variety. 
 
 The greatest height of the Cbaudiere Falls is about 
 forty feet. Arrayed in every imaginable variety of form, 
 in vast dark masses, in graceful cascades or in tumbling 
 spray, they have been well described as a hundred rivers 
 struggling for a passage. Not the least interesting feature 
 which they presenfis the Lost Cbaudiere, where a body 
 of water greater in volume than the Thames at London is 
 quietly sucked down, and disappears under ground. 
 
 At the city of Ottawa the river receives the Rideau 
 from the west, running a course of a hundred and sixteen 
 miles, and draining an area of thirteen hundred and fifty 
 square miles.” 
 
 The City of Ottawa is perhaps situated more pictures- 
 quely than any other in North America with the exception 
 of Quebec. The view from the Barrack Hill, embracing, 
 as it does, in one coup d'odl the magnificent Falls of the 
 Chaudiere, with its clouds of snowy spray, generally 
 spanned by a brilliant rainbow ; the Suspension Bridge 
 uniting Upper and Lower Canada ; the River above the 
 great Falls studded with pretty wooded islands, and the 
 distant purple Mountains, which divide the waters of the 
 Gatineau from those of the Ottawa, is one of the most 
 beautiful in the world. 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 81 
 
 1 lie Citj of Ottawa, now containing about twelve 
 thousand inhabitants, sprang up, about thirty years ago, 
 from a collection of shanties inhabited by the laboreisand 
 artificers employed by the Royal Engineers to construct 
 the llideau Canal. 
 
 This Canal was intended by the Government of England 
 to be a means of communication between the Lower St. 
 Lawrence and the Lakes^ in case the communication on 
 the fiont should be interrupted. The canal was designed 
 by Colonel By, of the Royal Engineers, and the present 
 City of Ottawa was named Bytown, in memory of its 
 founder, until, about a year ago, the inhabitants petitioned 
 the Piovincial Parliament to change the name. 
 
 Ihe canal is a splendid specimen of Engineering skill, 
 and the masonry of the numerous locks is generally admired 
 for its finish and solidity. Eight of these locks rise one 
 above another directly in the centre of the city, the canal 
 being crossed by a handsome stone bridge, just above 
 them. The canal in fact divides the city into two parts, 
 the Upper and Lower. A large part of the Upper Town 
 is comprised in what is called the Barrack Hill, on which 
 is a small barrack for troops, and some store houses, the 
 property of the Imperial Government ; there is here a 
 parade ground of several acres, and the summit of the hill 
 from which is to be seen the beautiful view' which we spoke 
 of before, is one of the finest promenades in the world. 
 A few very simple fortifications on this hill would make 
 the City of Ottawa almost as impregnable as Quebec. 
 
 Within the last few years a small hamlet has sprung 
 
82 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 up near the Suspension Bridge, in consequence of the 
 abundant water power existing there, of which several 
 enterprising persons have availed themselves to erect saw- 
 mills. There is also here a very large iron foundry and 
 machine manufactory. 
 
 Here also are the slides, erec ted by the Government, for 
 the passage of timber, in order to avoid the great Fall, 
 over which the pieces of timber used to be precipitated 
 singly, to be again collected below at great trouble and 
 loss. Throughout the whole summer, from morning to 
 night, the cribs” of timber, each manned by three or four 
 hardy raftsmen, may be seen darting down these slides, 
 while, from the lofty summit of the Barrack Hill, the 
 huge rafts, gay with bright streamers floating from their 
 many masts, may be seen on the smooth dark bosom of the 
 river, the golden coloured timber flashing in the sunbeams. 
 
 In the Lower Town are the principal mercantile esta- 
 blishments ; the Court-House and Jail; the Homan 
 Catholic Cathedral ; the Bishop’s Palace ; a Nunnery, to 
 which the General Hospital is attached ; and a Roman 
 Catholic College ; the Protestant Hospital ; the Terminus 
 of the Prescott and Ottawa Ptailway, and the steamboat 
 wharf ; among the objects well worth seeing in this part 
 of the town is a steam saw-mill of great size recently 
 erected by Mr. Aumond. 
 
 In Central Ottawa are the Town Hall, the Post Office, 
 Telegraph Office and News Room, to which is attached a 
 Library and Museum, the latter containing some very 
 interesting geological specimens. 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 83 
 
 In Upper Ottawa are the Episcopal Church and the 
 office at which all the business connected with timber cut 
 on the lands of the Crown is transacted. 
 
 The Banks of Upper Canada, British North America, 
 Montreal, and Quebec, have agencies in the city. 
 
 During the summer months steamers run daily on the 
 river between Ottawa aud Montreal, and between Ottawa 
 and Kingston, by the way of the Rideau Canal ; a railway 
 train leaves the city every day at eight o’clock, A. M., 
 for Prescott, where those passengers who intend to go to 
 Montreal change into the cars of the Grand Trunk line, 
 and so reach Montreal at four P. M. 
 
 Travellers who wish to proceed further up the river can 
 take a carriage or omnibus for Aylmer, a pretty village 
 about nine miles from Ottawa, between which place and 
 Aylmer there is an excellent turnpike road, where they 
 will find a steamer which takes them to the Chats ; from 
 this there is a railway for about two miles ; they then 
 proceed by another steamer to Portage du Fort; here 
 waggons are used for a short distance, and another steamer 
 takes them to Pembroke, and again another from that 
 point to Deux Joachims, where for the present navigation 
 ceases for any thing larger than a canoe. 
 
 The City of Ottawa, in years to come, when the 
 increasing w'ealth of the inhabitants permits them to build 
 generally with the beautiful pale grey limestone of the 
 neighbourhood, will be a very handsome town, for the 
 streets have been laid out with great regularity, and are 
 very wide, while, if the Barrack Hill is retained by the 
 
84 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 Government, and judiciously improved at tlie expense of 
 the city, the inhabitants might have a beautiful park for 
 purposes of health and recreation. 
 
 The neighborhood around the city, and the city itself, 
 are remarkably healthy ; the water is excellent, and pro- 
 visions are plentiful, cheap, and good. 
 
 Immediately below the City of Ottawa the Eiver 
 Rideau discharges into the Ottawa, falling gently over the 
 edge of a limestone precipice like a beautifully transparent 
 curtain” of water, from which resemblance its name has 
 been derived ; the fall is divided into two portions by a 
 small rocky island wiiich adds greatly to the picturesque- 
 ness of the sc^ne. The Eideau Falls are best seen from 
 a boat. This river has a course of about one hundred 
 and sixteen miles, and drains an area of thirteen hundred 
 and fifty square miles. 
 
 A mile lower it receives from the north its greatest 
 tributary, the Gatineau, which, with a course probably 
 of four hundred and twenty miles, drains an area of twelve 
 thousand square miles. For about two hundred miles 
 the upper course of this river is in the unknown northern 
 country. At the farthest point sgrveyed, two hundred 
 and seventeen miles from its mouth, the Gatineau is still 
 a noble stream, a thousand feet wide, diminished in depth 
 but not in width. 
 
 “ Eighteen miles lower down, the Eiviere au Lic^vre 
 enters from the north, after running a course of two hun- 
 dred and sixty miles in length, and draining an area of 
 four thousand one hundred miles. Fifteen miles below it, 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 85 
 
 the Ottawa receives the North and South Nation Rivers 
 on either side, the former ninety-five and the latter a 
 hundred miles in length. Twenty-two miles further, the 
 River Rouge, ninety miles long, enters from the north. 
 Twenty-one miles lower, the Riviere du Nord, a hundred 
 and sixty miles in length, comes in on the same side, and 
 lastly just above its mouth it receives the E-iver Assump- 
 tion which has a course of a hundred and thirty miles. 
 
 From Ottawa the river is navigable to Grenville, a 
 distance of fifty-eight miles, where the rtipids that occur 
 for twelve miles are avoided by a succession of canals. 
 Twenty-three miles lower, at one of the mornhs of the Ot- 
 tawa, a single lock, to avoid a slight rapid, gives a passage 
 into Lake St. Louis, an expansion of the St. Lawrence 
 above Montreal. 
 
 ‘‘ The remaining half of the Ottawa’s waters find their 
 way to the St. Lawrence by passing in two cliannels be- 
 hind the Island of Montreal and the Isle Jesus, in a course 
 of thirty-one miles. They are interruj)ted with rapids, 
 still it is by one of them that all the Ottawa lumber passes 
 to market. At Bout de I’Isle, therefore, the Ottawa is 
 finally merged in the St. Lawrence, a hundred and thirty 
 miles below from the city of Ottawa. 
 
 “ The most prominent characteristic of the Ottawa is 
 its great volume. Even above the town, where it has to 
 receive tributaries equal to the Hudson, the Shannon, the 
 Thames, the Tweed, the Spey and the Clyde, it displa3^s, 
 Avhen unconfined, a width of half a mile of strono- boilino- 
 
 o O 
 
 rapid, and wdien at the highest, while the north waters are 
 
86 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 passing, the volume, by calculated approximation, is fully 
 equal to that passing Niagara, that is double the common 
 volume of the Ganges. 
 
 Taking a birdVeye view of the valley of the Ottawa, 
 we see spread out before us a country equal to eight times 
 the State of Vermont, or ten times that of Massachusetts, 
 w’ith its great artery, the Ottawa, curving through it, 
 resembling the Pthine in length of course, and the Danube 
 in magnitude. 
 
 ‘‘ This immense region overlies a variety of geological 
 formations, and presents all their cliaracteristic features, 
 from tlie level uniform surface of the silurian system, 
 w’hich prevails along a great extent of the Ottawa, to the 
 rugged and romantic ridges in the metamorphic and primi- 
 tive formations which stretch far away to the north and 
 north-west. 
 
 “ As far as our knowledge of the country extends, we 
 find the greater part of it covered with a luxuriant growth 
 of red and white jhne timber, making the most valuable 
 forests in the world, abundantly intersected with large rivers, 
 fitted to convey the timber to market, when manufactured. 
 
 The remaining portion of it, if not so valuably wood- 
 ed, presents a very extensive and advantageous field for 
 settlement. Apart from the numerous townships already 
 surveyed and partly settled, and the large tracts of good 
 land interspersed throughout the timber country, the great 
 region on the upper course of the western tributaries of 
 the Ottawa, behind the red pine country, exceeds the 
 State of New Hampshire in extent, with an equal climate 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 87 
 
 and superior soil. It is generally a beautiful undulating 
 country, wooded with a rich growth of maple, beech, birch^ 
 elm, &c., and watered with lakes and streams affording nu- 
 merous mill-sites, and abounding in fish. Flanking on the 
 one side the lumbering country, which presents an excel- 
 lent market for produce, and adjoining Lake Huron on the 
 other, the situation, though comparati\ely inland, is highly 
 advantageous. 
 
 In the diversity of resources, the Ottawa country 
 above described, presents unusual attractions alike to 
 agricultural and commercial enterprise.” 
 
 Feturning from the trip up the Ottawa, ive shall once 
 more embark upon the sunny St. Lawrence, henceforth 
 better known by the inhabitants on its banks as La 
 Grande Riviere, This the tourist, it is to be regretted, 
 must do in the afternoon, on board of one of the large 
 and comfortable steamboats daily, or rather nightly, ply- 
 ing to Quebec. For the first hour or two he will liave a 
 view of a country entirely different from any thing he has 
 yet seen. Both banks are low and uninteresting in a 
 scenic point of view, but covered with the neat white- 
 washed cottages of the French Canadian peasantry, built 
 so closely to each other as to suggest the idea of a con- 
 tinuous village on either bank ; with here and there a 
 thicker grouping of houses round the Parish Church. 
 Darkness, however, soon closes the view, and the traveller 
 only knows that he is rapidly borne along on the now 
 united and smooth wat :rs of two of the mightiest rivers 
 in the world. Glorious in the full blaze of day, yet, we 
 
88 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 think, grander and more sublime when beheld under the 
 subdued light of a summer’s moon. 
 
 On the voyage the steamer stops twice, once at the 
 Village of Sorel, at the mouth of the Richelieu, and again 
 at Three Rivers, about half way to Quebec. The former 
 place, though in early times a station of great importance, 
 and the scene of many bloody struggles in the Indian 
 wars, is now nothing but a quijt Canadian village, giving 
 little sign of being affected by the busy life that animates 
 and improves the rest of the country. Of Three Rivers 
 the same might be said until a few years ago, since which 
 time a good deal of activity has been caused by the open- 
 ing up of the great timber country in its rear, on the banks 
 of the fet. jMaiirice, which here falls into the St. Law- 
 rence. A visit to the Falls of Shawinegan, about thirty 
 miles up tl.is river, will be found interesting, and as it may 
 be accomplished in one day, we shall pause and accompany 
 the tourists who choose to make the trip. As the steam- 
 boat reaches Three Rivers at about eleven o’clock at 
 night, of course supper and bed at an excellent inn, close 
 to the wharf, must be our first thought. In the morning, 
 as soon as daylight appears, we must start in a waggon with 
 a couple of Canadian ponies driven tandem for the Gris. 
 This, which in French means free stone, is the site of very 
 extensive saw mills, built upon the River St. Maurice. 
 The mills, the manager's house, and a few cottages for the 
 labourers, constitute a small and perfectly isolated com- 
 munity. On the road, which is by no means good, and 
 entirely through a forest of stunted trees, the Forges or 
 
THE CANADIAN TQURIST. 
 
 89 
 
 Iron Works will be pointed out. Tins is a very old 
 establishment, having been founded and put into operation 
 many years before the conquest. An excellent bog ore is 
 found in abundance in the surrounding country, and iron 
 of a very superior quality is produced. A village or 
 hamlet surrounds the works, the inhabitants of which are 
 French, but ditferent in their appearance and dialect from 
 the rest of the people, having come originally from a dif- 
 ferent part of old France. At the Gris the tourists can 
 engage Indians to convey them, in bark canoes, to the 
 falls, a distance of about six miles. This mode of con- 
 veyance will be new to most of our lady friends ; but let 
 them embark without fear for there is not the slightest 
 danger, and the novelty will only enhance the pleasure ^f 
 the excursion. 
 
 On leaving the Gris a turn of the river shuts out all 
 view of civilized life— both banks are covered with fine 
 forest trees, unbroken save by a shanty or two of some 
 pioneer of the waste. The river is broad and still, and 
 over the whole a deep silence reigns, which the quiet 
 motion of the light canoe and the taciturn Indian guides do 
 not in the slightest degree disturb. After an hours pad- 
 dling the river opens out into a beautiful bay-like expanse# 
 with a beach of very fine white sand, on approaching 
 which, the noise of the yet unseen falls strikes on the ear. 
 And although we have come here to see the falls, we can- 
 not help thinking that the quiet, lovely, and utterly wild 
 scene around us at this point, is that part of the day’s 
 journey which will rest longest on the memory of the 
 beholder. 
 
90 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 Landing opposite the beach just mentioned, a short but 
 rough walk across a point of land, brings us out of the 
 bush in front of the Falls, and a scene .of wild beauty 
 suddenly displays itself. The spectator from the point 
 which we have chosen is enabled to see the river above, 
 rapid but scarcely broken, suddenly dash over the preci- 
 pice hy three distinct channels formed by the banks and 
 two huge rocks which raise their backs above the foam 
 throwing aside the angry torrents on either side, which 
 descend into a boiling and fearfully disturbed cauldron 
 about a hundred and fifty feet below — the tremendous 
 force with which the immense body of water rushes at 
 our feet producing an effect on the mind impossible to 
 describe. Over shelving beds of black trap rock w'e may 
 easily descend, amid clouds of spray and almost stunned 
 by the roar of waters, to the very edge of the gulf and 
 survey the whole. After Niagara these falls sink into in- 
 significance, but the comphrison will be an after thought, the 
 scene now before us is sufficient to fill the mind for the 
 time with its wild and savage grandeur. Here too nothing 
 of civilized existence recalls the wandering thoughts to the 
 dull realities of every day life. No mills suggest com- 
 merce and the cares of busy toil — no sellers of curiosities 
 which are not curious — no- gay ladies and their attendant 
 dandies provoke a smile or break incongruously on nature’s 
 beauty. Man has done nothing here to mar the picture 
 and, though but a few miles from the busy baunts of trade, 
 one feels here isolated and alone in the boundless desert 
 in the presence of nature in her grandest aspect. We 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 91 
 
 know not how long our description may remain true, the 
 settler^s axe may soon be beard ringing through the 
 woods, and the spirits of the flood will flee to remoter 
 regions. Now, at all events, the wildness of the scenery 
 forms one of the chief attractions of Shawinegan. 
 
 lieturning to the canoe our Indians will soon convey 
 us to our waggon, and thence we return to Three Rivers, 
 and if we have given our fair companions a long and per- 
 haps fatiguing day’s journey, we are sure the unwonted 
 pleasure will be long remembered, and the picture of the 
 falls in the wilderness — the Red man’s wilderness still, will 
 often recur to the imagination in future years, when 
 perhaps the desolating hand of improvement shall have 
 tamed down the savage beauty of the scene. But we are 
 again on board the steamboat, where we shall not disturb 
 you till daylight, when we must be up betimes to see the 
 approach to Quebec. 
 
 As the steamboat nears the ancient fortress, the appear- 
 ance of the country changes greatly from what it w’as 
 farther up the river. Both banks are now high and in 
 many places broken into deep wooded ravines. The north 
 bank rises precipitously from the river, forming for many 
 miles a deep escarpment, on the summit of which, stretch- 
 ing back, lie tlie Heights of Abraham — not now a half 
 cultivated plain, as in the days of Wolfe, but thickly dotted 
 with the country-houses and gardens of the genflemen of 
 Quebec. Carrying the eye along the elevated banks, the 
 land suddenly breaks and forms a bold headland j this is 
 .Cape Diamond, and there stands the Citadel frowning 
 
92 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 down on the river which its guns command, and there 
 floats the ancient flag of England in the morning breeze 
 — beneath lies^the city, only as yet partly seen, and at the 
 base of the rocky promontory lie the thousand ships which 
 here seek the cargoes that Canada’s inexhaustible forests 
 supply. 
 
 Quebec. 
 
 The appearance of Quebec cannot fail to suggest many 
 recollections to the stranger who looks upon its avails lor 
 the first time, for, though it is not (he oldest settlement of 
 the French colonists, all the most striking events of 
 Canadian history are associated with its foundation and 
 growth. Here, in 1535, Jacques Cartier first landed at 
 the Indian settlement of Stadaconna, and here, nearly 
 eighty years after, Champlain settled, making Quebec the 
 future capital of New France. A capital which in 16’29, 
 or twenty years after, was taken by Captain Kirk with a 
 fleet of three small ships, from a population starving and 
 devoid of muskets even for its small garrison. Here 
 too fell the young and brave Wolfe, and his equally brave 
 antagonist Montcalm. And here fell Montgomery in his 
 desperate attack at night in the midst of a snow storm — 
 which, ere daylight broke, had covered in his cold winding 
 sheet the stricken brave who had fallen in the rash attack. 
 All these things have passed away — the frowning fortifica- 
 tions preside over peace and busy commerce, and of the 
 many hundreds of ships now lying in her roads and at her 
 wharves, all are peaceful merchantmen receiving their 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 93 
 
 loads of timljer from the far away Ottawa. But let us 
 disembark and climb the steep ascent to the Upper Town. 
 
 We would recommend the stranger, as soon as he finds 
 himself in readiness to proceed from his lodgings for the 
 purpose of enjoying the scenery of Quebec and its environs, 
 to visit in the first place the- Citadel, and place himself 
 near to the flag staff. His interest will he more completely 
 gratified, if he be accompanied by an individual conversant 
 with the surrounding localities and their associations. The 
 Citadel, which surmounts the summit of Cape Diamond, 
 is three hundred and fifty feet above the River, and 
 includes about forty acres. This fortress, admitted as 
 unequalled by any military work on this Continent, and as 
 second to few of the most celebrated fortresses in the Old 
 AVorld, has been frequently and appropriately called the 
 
 Gibraltar of America."’ Hence is commanded a covp 
 d'ail, which American and European travellers have pro- 
 nounced unsurpassed in the New and Old Worlds. The 
 view embraces the opposite banks of the majestic river for 
 forty miles up and down, hacked by extensive plains reced- 
 ing to lofty mountains in the distance, the Island of Orleans 
 between its shores, and on either hand the lovely village of 
 Pointe Levi and that of Beauport, whilst the Great River 
 and the St. Charles unite in forming the magnificent basin, 
 on whose bosom vessels of every size are continually 
 floating. Here the position of the City, on the tongue of 
 land formed by these rivers, is well seen. The Cape is 
 composed of dark-coloured slate, in which are found in 
 veins, quartz crystals, sparkling like diamonds^ and hence 
 
94 
 
 THE CANADrAN TOURIST. 
 
 arose the name of Cape Diamond. A walk along the 
 ramparts above the Esplanade is a delightful promenade. 
 Hence the eyes rest on the small group of hills, forming 
 the portal to the wilds which are trodden only by the feet 
 of the Indian hunters as far as Hudson’s Bay— the lower 
 range of mountains forming a boundary to civilization in 
 this direction. The St. Charles is seen to most advantage 
 at sun set, when its shores, studded with white buildings, 
 are illuminated by his declining rays, as they momentarily 
 rest on the chain of hills above the beautiful Valcartier. 
 —The Obelisk to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm 
 stands on the Promenade between the gardens attached to 
 the Caslle. The Earl of Dalhousie, when Governor 
 General, originated the erection of this monument, and 
 contributed handsomely to the subscription fund. Captain 
 Young, of the 79th Highlanders, prepared the design. 
 For the benefit of those who do not understand the Latin 
 language, we subjoin a translation of the two inscriptions. 
 *• Ihis monumental stone to the memory of the illustrious 
 men, Wolfe and Montcalm, was laid by George, Earl of 
 Dalhousie, Governor-in-Chief over all the British Prov- 
 inces in North America j a work neglected for many years 
 (what is there more worthy of a gallant general ?) he pro- 
 moted by his influence, encouraged by his example, and 
 favoured by his munificence. I5th November, 1827, 
 George IV. reigning King of Great Britain.” “ Military 
 prowess gave them a common death, History, a common 
 fame. Posterity, a common monument. In the year of our 
 Lord 1827.” It is not devoid of interest to record here. 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 95 
 
 that, when the foundation-stone of this monument was laid 
 in presence of his Excellency, the Governor-in-Chief, the 
 Lord Bishop of Quebec, the Chief Justice, the Committee 
 of Superintendence, and a large assemblage of Ladies 
 and Gentlemen, the ceremony derived a peculiar interest 
 from the presence of Mr. James Thompson, one of the 
 few survivors ^supposed to be the sole one in Canada) of the 
 gallant army, that served umler Wolfe on the memorable 
 13th of September, 1759. This veteran, then in his 
 95th year, walked with the party that accompanied the 
 Earl, and leaned on the arm of the officer, whose chaste and 
 appropriate design for the monument was adopted. The 
 venerable man, having been called upon by the Governor 
 to assist as a Free Mason in the ceremony, with a firm 
 hand gave the three mystic strokes with the rnallet on the 
 stone. lie has since paid the debt of nature, having died 
 on the 25th of August, 1830, in the 9Sth year of his age. 
 He w^as for a long time Overseer of Works in the 
 Engineer Department of the Garrison. He was born at 
 Tain, the county-town of Ross-shire in Scotland ; and, 
 having come to this country in General Wolfe’s army, 
 was at the capture of Louisbourgh in Cape Breton Island , 
 and in the unsuccessful affair near Montmorenci Falls. 
 He also took part in the defence of Quebec against the 
 attacks of the American Generals, Arnold and Montgo- 
 gomery, in 1775. When his remains were conveyed to 
 the grave with military honours, the band and firing party 
 were furnished by the 15th Regiment, the senior corps in 
 garrison, which by a singular coincidence happened to be 
 one of those *which formed the army under Wolfe. 
 
96 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 The traveller might now descend through the Place 
 d’Armes to the Seminary Gardens. — The English or 
 Protestant Cathedral is one of the handsomest modern 
 edifices in the City. It was consecrated in 1804. The 
 communion plate is very magnificent, and was presented 
 by King George the Third. His Majesty also presented 
 the books for Divine service — the altar-cloth, &c. The 
 spire, which is one hundred and fifty-two feet above the 
 ground, and covered with tin, from the church standing on 
 nearly the highest ground in the city, is a very conspicuous 
 object at a great distance. Within is erected a handsome 
 monument of white marble to the memory of the late Dr, 
 Mountain, first Bishop of Quebec, who procured the 
 erection of the building. Beneath the altar are interred 
 the remains of the Duke of Richmond, Governor-General 
 of these Provinces, who died of hydrophobia in August, 
 1819. A few other handsome monuments adorn the 
 walls. On the north side of the Church, there stood, 
 since Quebec was a city, a huge elm-tree, one of the 
 aborigines ot the forest. It was blown down during a 
 squall some years ago. Within the enclosure stands the 
 Rectory, in which the Bishop of Quebec reside ; a small 
 chapel is attached. There are besides four chapels of the 
 Church of England within the Parish of Quebec, viz. — that 
 of the Holy Trinity, St. Matthew’s or the Free Chapel, St. 
 Paul’s or the Mariner’s Chapel, and St. Peter’s. The 
 Church and Convent of the Recollets or Franciscans 
 were formerly situated near this spot, having been destroy- 
 ed by fire in 1796. On a part of their grounds the Church 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 97 
 
 stands. This order is now extinct in Canada. — The Court- 
 house, which is a large modern structure ofstcne, contains 
 on the ground-floor apartments for liolding the Quarter 
 Sessions and other inferior Courts, offices of Clerks of the 
 diflcrent Courts, ^c., &c. Above* there is a spacious 
 chamber, in which are held the Superior Coiut, Criminal 
 Court, the Court of Appeals, and the Admiralty Court. 
 There are also offices for the High Sheriff and other 
 magistrates, and a room for occasional Militia Courts- 
 martial. It occupies, like the English Church, a part of 
 the site on which stood a monastery and church of the 
 Recollets, which were destroyed by fire in 1796. — We 
 shall now briefly allude to such public edifices as seem 
 worthy of notice from their antiquity or interesting asso- 
 ciations. — The Castle of St. Louis was built shortly after 
 the city was fortified with solid works, and comprised four 
 acres, once fortified ; but the great extension of the works 
 rendered the walls superfluous, and they were allowed to 
 go to decay. Here was the residence of the Representa- 
 tive of the Crown, while Quebec continued the Seat of 
 Government. The Castle was entirely consumed by fire 
 in 1834, The site is laid out fora promenade, from which 
 a most extensive view of the surrounding country may be 
 obtained. It is called Durham Terrace. — The largest 
 religious edifice is the Roman Catholic Cathedral. It 
 was built under the auspices of the first Bishop of Quebec, 
 and was consecrated in 1666 under the title of the 
 Immaculate Conception, It is two hundred and sixteen 
 feet long by one hundred and eighty in breadth, and stands 
 c 3 
 
 z: 
 
98 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 on ground belonging to the Fabique, or Church land. 
 It is divided into a nave and two aisles. At the upper 
 end of the former is the grand altar ; and in the side aisles 
 are four chapels, dedicated to different saints. It is dedi- 
 cated to Notre Dame de Victoire, and can accommodate 
 about foyr thousand persons. Adjoining the Cathedral 
 stands the Seminary, forming three sides of a square, and 
 occupying with its attached buildings a large space of 
 ground. It was founded and endowed in 1663 by Mon- 
 seigneur de Laval de Montmorency, first Bishop of Cana- 
 da. During his life-time the buildings were twice burnt, 
 to the ground. Having resigned his Bishopric, he passed 
 the last twenty years of his life within the Semimiry. 
 This institution was originally intended for the instruction 
 of the Catholic Clergy exclusively. The early regula- 
 tions have long ago been set aside ; and students of the 
 Catholic persuasion, intended for any profession, are in- 
 structed in the different branches of literary and scientific 
 knowledge, on paying the trifling sum of 5s. annually for 
 defraying incidental expenses. Pupils are boarded at the 
 very moderate charge of £12 10s. yearly. The esta- 
 blishment is divided into two branches, distinguished as the 
 Grand and Petit Seminaire. The course includes Latin 
 and French, Mathematics, Belles-lettres, Moral and Na- 
 tural Philosophy, Astronomy, Chemistry, Drawing, Music, 
 &c., &c. Besides the requiste domestic apartments, such 
 as dormitories, refectories, &c., it contains halls for the 
 senior and junior classes, and residences for the Superior 
 Directors, Professors, and different masters. These in- 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 99 
 
 cumbents receive no emoluments, as they consecrate them- 
 selves gratuitously to their arduous labours. The Insti- 
 tution only guarantees “ food and raiment” in sickness and 
 health. The annual exhibitions are most interesting, and 
 are attended by crowds of the respectable citizens, and 
 parents and guardians of pupils from a distance. The 
 Catholic Bishop resides in a large cut-stone house in rear 
 of the Cathedral. It was built in 184-9, and has accom- 
 modation for upwards of one hundred of the Clergy, 
 many of whom have frequent occasion to visit Quebec. 
 In the Bishop’s ante-chamber are suspended the portraits 
 of his twelve predecessors. The chapel contains the best 
 collection of paintings, (by eminent masters of the French 
 School) in this country. The Library contains upwards 
 of nine thousand volumes ; and there is a valuable collec- 
 tion of philosophical instruments, besides fossils, minerals, 
 Indian curiosities, &c.,^c. — The Ursuline Convent, and 
 Church of St. Ursula, are neat structures, surrounded by 
 large productive gardens. This establishment was founded 
 in 1639 by Madame de la Peltrie, for the purpose of ex- 
 tending the benahts of education to the young females of 
 the Colony. Pupils have resorted thither from the United 
 States, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward’s Island. At 
 present (1849) three hundred and sixty-eight are receiving 
 a superior education. It contains a Superior, fifty Nuns, 
 and six novices, who give instruction in reading, writing, 
 and needle-work. They are very assiduous in embroidery 
 and other ornamental works, especially for ecclesiastical 
 vestments. Considerable prices are obtained for their 
 
100 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 fancy-work, and by this means, and the produce of the 
 gardens, the revenue of the community is increased. The 
 Convent has been twice destroyed by fire, in 1650 and 
 1686. It is worthy of honourable notice, that on both 
 occasions the unfortunate outcasts, to the number of 
 fourteen and twenty-five respectively, were most hospi- 
 tably sheltered for the space of three weeks under 
 the roof of the Ilospitalieres, or Nuns of the Hotel Dieu. 
 Within the precincts of the Convent are interred the 
 remains of the gallant Marquis de Montcalm, who wa* 
 mortally wounded in the eventful battle on the Plains of 
 Abraham in 1759. Lord Aylmer, -when Governor-in- 
 Chief, caused a marble slab with an appropriate inscrip- 
 tion to be erected to his memory in the Chapel. The 
 Chapel, contains about a dozen paintings which may be ex- 
 amined on application to the Chaplain. Those within the 
 Convent are not open to the public. This establishment 
 is usually visited by strangers, who, on making application 
 to the Roman Catholic Bishop, will receive the necessary 
 introduction or permission. — On the arrival of Jesuits in 
 Canada in 1635, they erected a suitable habitation, the 
 destruction of which a few years afterwards made way for 
 their spacious Monastery. It was forfeited on the sup- 
 pression of that order, and at the conquest was regarded 
 as Crown property. It was formerly surrounded by 
 gardens, which were then destroyed and converted into a 
 place of exercise for the troops. The citizens with much 
 regret saw felled to the ground the stately trees, yet un- 
 touched by decay, that had been the primeval tenants of 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 101 
 
 the site at the foundation of the city. — The elegant build- 
 ing formerly denominated the Bishop’s Palace, standing on 
 an elevated spot, is very conspicuous, and originally had a 
 chapel connected therewith. The Bishop having accepted 
 an annuity in lieu of it, the Government fitted it up for 
 the accommodation of the two branches of the Legislature, 
 by whom it continued to be used for their sessions for many 
 years until it was destroyed by fire. — The Quebec Library, 
 a valuable collection of books numbering upwards of six 
 thousand volumes, was for several years in this building. It 
 was founded in 1779 during the administration of General 
 Haldirnand, who liberally contributed one hundred volumes 
 of valuable works towards its formation. This building 
 contained also the Museum of the Literary and Historical 
 Society, which was founded in 1824, and united in 1829 
 to that for the Promotion of Arts and Sciences. The 
 Mineralogical and Botanical collections are said to be 
 valuable. 
 
 The Artillery Barracks, which form a range of stone 
 buildings upwards of five hundred feet in length, roughly 
 constructed, but very substantial and well arranged, were 
 erected before 1750 for the accommodation of troops by 
 which the garrison was re-inforced, and were then distin- 
 guished as the Casernes Nouvelles. Besides quartering 
 the artillerymen, they contain an ordnance-office, store- 
 houses, workshops, and an armoury. The armoury which 
 occupies several apartments, contains, in a state of com- 
 plete repair and readiness for immediate use, small arms of 
 every description, sufficient for the equipment of twenty 
 
102 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 thousand men. The admiration of strangers is excited by 
 the fanciful coup-d''onl^ ^’hich is presented by the display 
 of the arms in various designs and emblematical devices. 
 
 Among public places in the Upper Town we may mention 
 Durham Terrace, and the Esplanade, the latter being the 
 chief theatre for military exercises. A little to the west 
 of Hope-Gate stands the building once occupied by the 
 brave Marquis de Montcalm, now divided into three priv- 
 ate residences. It is only remarkable now as having been 
 the residence of the French General, whose famehasbeen 
 perpetuated with that of his antagonist Wolfe. 
 
 In St. Anne’s Street is St. Andrew’s Church in con- 
 nexion with the Scotch Establishment. A Minister of 
 that Church is believed to have officiated to the Presby- 
 terians since the conquest in 1759. It is ascertained 
 that an apartment was assigned by the King’s Repres- 
 entative in the Jesuits’ College as a place of worship for 
 the members of the Scotch Church” previously to 1767, 
 and was occupied as such without interruption till 1807, 
 when Colonel Brock, commandant, requested the congre- 
 gation to remove on the shortest notice, as it was found 
 necessary to appropriate the apartment to the accommo- 
 dation of the troops. In November the coiioregation re- 
 moved to the lower room of the Court-House. In No- 
 vember of 1808, bis Excellency, Governor Craig, granted 
 the lot of ground on which the present Church now stands. 
 It was opened in November, 1810, by the late Rev. Dr. 
 Spark, who died in 1819. In 1821 it w'as found inade- 
 quate for the accommodation of the members, wdien the 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 103 
 
 Earl 6f Dalhousie was pleased to grant an additional space 
 of ground, on which the present enlarged church, which 
 was completed in 1824, and a comfortable manse for the 
 Minister, now stand. The Church accomomdates tfiirteen 
 hundred sitters. — Tn St. Francis Street stands St. John’s 
 Churclu previously a Congregational Chapel. It was 
 erected in 1816. In 1830 the Congregation, having con- 
 formed to the doctrine, discipline, and laws of the Church 
 of Scotland, received the ministrations of a Minister of 
 that church. At the disruption of the Scottish Establish- 
 ment, a majority of the Congregation connected th.em- 
 selves with the Free Church of Scotland. It is now oc- 
 cupied as a Temperance Hall, where the Sons of Temper- 
 ance hold their meetings, the congregation of the Free 
 Church having since built a beautiful gothic edifice, called 
 Chalmer’s Church, in St. Ursule Street, which will be 
 long remembered as the scene of the Gavazzi^s Riots. The 
 Wesleyan Methodists have two Chapels, one in St. Stanis- 
 laus Street, (erected in 1 850), a plain but beautiful edifice in 
 the Gothic style, the interior of which is tastefully fitted up, 
 a fine organ has also been introduced — the other in St. 
 Louis Suburb, is called the Centenary Chapel.” 
 
 The Lower Town extends along the base of the preci- 
 pice on the summit of which the Upper Town is built. 
 The site is almost entirely the creation of human industry, 
 having been gained by excavation from the base of the 
 precipice, or redeemed from the River by building out in- 
 to its waters. The towns are connected by iVloimtain 
 Street, which was formerly almost impassable for carri- 
 
104* 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 ages. Foot passengers avail themselves of the shorter 
 ^ passage, popular!/ known as the Brea1c-7ieck Stairs. The 
 wharves are very extensive, and are generally carried out 
 upwards of two hundred yards into the River. The 
 Chapel ( Secoursale, i, e. in aid of the Parish Church), 
 standing in the Square, is of great antiquity, as it was built 
 and used as a church before 1690. In that year Sir 
 Wm. Phipps in attempting to capture Quebec was defeat- 
 ed ; and the JFete of Notre Dame de Victoire was 
 instituted for annual celebration in this church on the 7th 
 of October. After the shipwreck of the English fleet in 
 1711, which was regarded by the inhabitants not only as 
 
 a second victory but as a miraculous interposition in their 
 favour, the church received its present name of Notre 
 Dame des Victoires, that both events might be commem- 
 orated at once. We may here notice the other Roman 
 Catholic Churches, viz.: that of the Congregation, on the 
 bill leading from the Esplanade and St. John^s Gate, and 
 that in the populous suburb of St. Roch. The former is 
 perfectly plain in the interior, while the latter is well 
 finished and has several paintings. Among them is one of 
 Bishop Plessis, a great benefactor to this Church. 
 Another has also been erected in St. John’s Suburbs, 
 equal in size to the Cathedral. St. Patrick’s occupies an 
 area of one hundred and thirty-six by fifty-two feet. 
 Its corner stone was laid in the fall of 1831, and it was 
 
 opened for religious service on the first Sabbath of July, 
 1833. The steeple is well proportioned, and stands one 
 hundred and twenty feet from the ground to the ball sup- 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 501 
 
 porting the cross. The interior is calculated to strike the 
 beholder with religious awe and admiration. 
 
 The Quebec Exchange, a commodious edifice of cut 
 stone, was erected in 1828-9, and has answered the 
 sanguine expectations of the proprietors. The second- 
 floor is where merchants most do congregate,” and 
 is devoted to the Reading-room, which is admirably con- 
 ducted ; the upper part contains the rooms of the Board of 
 Trade, and the Telegraph Ollice. — The Quebec Bank, 
 which was established in 1818 and incorporated in 1822, 
 occupies the lower story of the handsome edifice built by 
 the Quebec Fire Assurance Company, whose office is on 
 the second story. — In this part of the Lower Town are 
 the Branch Agencies of the Bank of Montreal, Bank of 
 British North America and Montreal City Bank. — The 
 King’s Wharf, which is appropriated to the purposes of 
 Government, has on it extensive stores belonging to the 
 Commissariat Department, which were erected in 1821. 
 Here land and embark the officers of the Army and Navy, 
 the troops, &c. — The building formerly used as a Custom 
 House adjoins on the west. Nearly opposite to this there 
 anciently stood a barrier, where the two ways diverge, one 
 to the steps leading to the Upper Town, and the other to 
 the Harbour. Close to this spot Montgomery w^as killed as 
 above mentioned, 3 1st December, 1775. — At some dis- 
 tance beyond, (about two miles) is Wolfe’s Cove where 
 the intrepid leader,' from Ivhence it derives its name, suc- 
 ceeded in ascending the Cliff, and in forming his army 
 in battle-array on ti e Plains of Abraham. — The Marine 
 
106 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 Hospital was erected for the reception of sailors and others 
 landing in Quebec afflicted with disease. It is supported 
 by a tax of one penny a ton levied on each vessel arriv- 
 ing from Sea, and a proportion of the tax upon Emigra- 
 tion. It stands on the bank of the liiver St. Charles, 
 nearly opposite to the spot where Jacques Cartier first 
 wintered in 1535. The ceremony of laying the first stone 
 was performed by Lord Aylmer, Governor-in-Chief, in 
 May, 1832. It was opened in July, 1834'. Its estimat- 
 ed cost was twenty-three thousand pounds or ninety-two 
 thousand dollars. The exterior is of the Ionic order ; and 
 the proportions are taken from the Temple of Muses on the 
 Ilissus near Atjiens. The first story contains Catholic 
 and Protestant Chapels with apartments for officiating 
 Ministers, apartments for Housekeeper, Steward, ard 
 Nurses, wards for sixty patients, besides two kitchens, 
 store-rooms, baths, &c. The principal story contains the 
 large Entrance Hall, apartments for the Medical Officers, 
 their Examining Rooms, and Operating Theatres, besides 
 a Museum, and accommodation for sixty-eight patients. 
 The third story contains apartments for the chief nurses, 
 and wards for one hundred and forty patients. The upper 
 story is appropriated as a Lying-in-Hospital for thirty- 
 four patients. The attics wdll contain sixty ; so that 
 there is accommodation for three hundred and sixty^two 
 persons. Each story is supplied with cold, hot, and 
 vapour baths. In the basement are cellars, kitchens, 
 laundry, &c. The entire premises contain an area of 
 about six acres, laid out in gardens and promenade grounds 
 for convalescents. 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 107 
 
 In the month of May and June of 1845, at an exact in- 
 terval of four weeks, Quebec was visited by two most 
 calamitous fires. So rapid and extensive was the des- 
 truction that nearly one-third of the population was 
 rendered houseless, and the entire suburbs of St. Rochand 
 St. John’s reduced to ashes. About sixteen hundred 
 buildings, of which twelve hundred were dwellings, were 
 destroyed. The total loss was estimated at eight hundred 
 and seventy-five thousand pounds or five millions and five 
 hunJred thousand dollars, of which about one hundred and 
 twenty-five thousand pounds or five hundred thousand dol- 
 lars was insured. About forty lives were lost. This 
 awful conflagration was arrested mainly through the noble 
 exertions of the 43rd and 89th Regiments, then compos- 
 ing the Garrison, and of part of the Royal Artillery. 
 The appeals of the Committee of the Quebec Relief Fund 
 were nobly responded to, not only by the Mother Coun- 
 try and the Sister Provinces, but by the Colonies gener- 
 ally and by the United States. A sum, amounting, we 
 believe, to nearly one hundred thousand pounds, was thus 
 raised, and the sufferers were enabled to rebuild their 
 houses in many instances in a more substantial manner than 
 before. The Corporation enjoined the use of bricks and 
 stone instead of wood for the walls, and of tin instead of 
 shingles for the roofs. 
 
 Having brought under the Tourist’s notice the principal 
 features within the city of Quebec that seem worthy of 
 his attention, we propose now to accompany him in a few 
 excursions to the surrounding country. A morning's 
 
108 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 ramble to the Plains of Abraham will not fail to recal 
 historical recollections and to gratify a taste /or beautiful 
 scenery. On leaving the St. Louis Gate, let the Traveller 
 ascend the counterscarp on the left, that leads to the Glach 
 of the Citadel ; and hence pursuing a direction to the 
 right, let him approach one of the Martello Towers? 
 whence he may enjoy a beautiful view of the Si. Law- 
 rence. A little beyond let him ascend the right bank, 
 and he reaches the celebrated Plains of Abraham near the 
 spot where General Wolfe fell. On the highest ground, 
 surrounded by wooden fences, can clearly be traced out 
 the redoubt where he received the fatal wound. He was 
 carried afevv ya rds the rear and placed against a rock 
 till he expired. It has since been removed. Within an 
 enclosure lower down and near to the road is the stone- 
 well from which they brought him water. The English 
 right nearly faced this redoubt, and on this position the 
 French left rested. The French army arrived on the 
 Plains from the right of this positi^)n, as it came from 
 Beauport and not from Quebec ; and, on being defeated, 
 retired down the heights by which it had ascended, and 
 not into Quebec. In front of the Plains from this posi- 
 tion stands the house of Marchmont. It is erected on 
 the site of a French redoubt that once defended the 
 ascent from Wolfe’s Cove. Plere landed the British 
 army under Wolfe’s command, and, on mounting the 
 banks, carried this detached work. The troops in the 
 Garrison are usually reviewed on the Plains. — The Tourist 
 may farther enjoy a beautiful ride. Let him leave by St. 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 109 
 
 Louis Gate and pass tho Plains, and 1 )g will arrive at 
 Marchinont, the property of John Gilmour, Esq. The 
 former proprietor, Sir John Harvey, went to considerable 
 expense in laying out the grounds in a pleasing and taste- 
 ful manner. His successor, Sir Thomas Noel Hill, also 
 resided here, and duly appreciated its beauties. The 
 view ill front of the house is grand. Here the River 
 widens and assumes the appearance of a lake, whose sur- 
 face is enlivened by numerous merchant-ships at anchor, 
 and immense rafts of timber floated down from various 
 parts of the Upper Province for shipment to England, 
 timber being one of .the principal exports from the Cana- 
 das. On leaving Marchinont he will pass some beautiful 
 villas, whose park-like grounds remind one of England, 
 and from some points in which are commanded views 
 worthy of a painter’s study. Among these villas may be 
 mentioned Wolfesfield, Spencer Wood, and Woodfield. 
 The last was originally built by the Catholic Bishop of 
 Samos, and, from the several additions made by subsequent 
 proprietors, had a somewhat irregular, though picturesque, 
 appearance. It was burnt down, and rebuilt in a fine re- 
 gular style. It is now the residence of James Gibb, Esq. 
 
 In this neighbourhood is situated* Mount Hermon 
 Cemetery. It is about three miles from'Quebec on the 
 south side of the St. Lewis Road, and slopes irregularly 
 but beautifully down the cliff which overhangs the St. 
 Lawrence. It is thirty-two acres in extent, and the 
 grounds were tastefully laid out by the late Major Doug- 
 lass, U. S. Engineers, whose taste and skill had been pre- 
 
 D 
 
 1 
 
the CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 viously shewn in the arrangement of Greenwood Ceme- 
 tery near New York. A carriage drive upwards, of two 
 nules in extent, affords access to all parts of the grounds, 
 and has been so arranged as to afford the most perfect 
 view of the scenery. The visitor, after driving over the 
 smooth lawn-like open surface, finds himself suddenly trans- 
 ferred by a turn of the road into a dark avenue of stately 
 forest trees, from which he emerges to see rte broad St. 
 Lawrence almost beneath him, with the City of Quebec, 
 and the beautiful slopes of Point Levi in the distance. 
 
 Many beautiful monuments now adorn the grounds, 
 some of which are from Montreal and some from Scotland, 
 but the great majority are the productions of Mr. Felix 
 Morgan, of Quebec, and do great credit to his taste and 
 skill. Many of them are beautiful and costly structures 
 of Italian marble. 
 
 A neat Gothic Lodge at the entrance of the grounds, 
 contains the office and residence of the superintendent. In 
 the former a complete plan of the grounds is kept, every 
 separate grave being marked upon it with its appropriate 
 number, so that at any future time, on consulting it, the exact 
 spot of interment can be ascertained, and the llegisfer 
 which is also kept affords information, respecting the places 
 of birth, age, and date of death. A large vault, perfectly 
 secured with iron doors, has been constructed for the pur- 
 pose of receiving bodies, during the winter when immediate 
 interment is not desired ; and it is contemplated shortly to 
 erect a suitable stone chapel in the Gothic style, the plans 
 and specifications of which have been prepared. 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 Ill 
 
 On leaving tliis lovely spot, the ride continues through 
 the woods on the edge of the banks rising from the shore. 
 On the south side are distinguished the embouchures of the 
 Etchemin and Chaudi^re pouring in their tribute of waters. 
 At Pointe aux Puisseaux the road leads down to Sillery 
 Cove. The view from this point would atford an excellent 
 composition for the brush of the landscape-painter. Be- 
 fore reaching the ascent to the villa of the late Mr. 
 Macnider is an old stone house, formerly inhabited by the 
 heroine of ‘‘ Emily Montague,” near which are the ruins 
 of what was once a large stone chapel. Such visitants 
 as are unacquainted with this novel will find in it a faithful 
 picture of the manners and condition of the Colonist 
 when Canada first became a British colony. A mile 
 beyond is the villa of Kilgraston. Hence the Tourist, 
 instead of returning by a road conducting through a wood 
 into St. Louis Hoad for (Quebec, will do better by contin- 
 uing his ride to the Church of St. Foy, from which is seen 
 below the St. Charles gliding smoothly through a lovely 
 valley, whose sides rise gradually to the mountains and are 
 literally covered with habitations. The villages of Lorette 
 and Charlesbourg are conspicuous objects. Before enter- 
 ing the Suburb of St. John, on the banks of St. Charles 
 stands the General Hospital, designed, as the name implies, 
 for the disabled and sick of every description. Charlevoix 
 says that “ it is the finest house in Canada, and would be 
 no disparagement to our largest houses in France; the 
 Fathers Recollets formerly owned the ground on which it 
 stands. M. de St. Vallier, Bishop of Quebec, removed 
 
112 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST, 
 
 them into the city, bought their settlements, and expended 
 one hundred thousand ciowns in building, furniture, and 
 foundations.” The first ecclesiastics in Canada were 
 Recollets, four in number, brought out by Champlain in 
 1615. Their original habitation, consisting of a small 
 lodge and seminary, was on the spot where the General 
 Hospital now stands. It was commenced before 1620. 
 
 In 1690 the Ilecollets were induced to remove to grounds 
 where the Episcopal Church now stands. This founda- 
 tion was at first under the charge of the Sisters §f the 
 Congregation, but in J692 under that of the HospitaMeres 
 or Nuns of the Hotel Dieu ; from which community it 
 received its Superior and twelve professed Nuns. In 
 1701 the Nuns of the General Hospital were made a 
 separate and independent community. At present it is 
 governed by a Superior, at the head of fifty Nuns and a 
 few Novices and Postulantes, The appearance, exter- 
 nal and ’ internal, is regular and pleasing. The male 
 patients are lodged on the ground-floor, and the females in i 
 that above. The Nuns are distinguished for the manu- 
 facture of Church ornaments and for their skill in gilding. 
 The produce of their works is added to the general fund 
 of the Institution, whose support is chiefly drawn from the 
 revenue of the landed property that has been granted to 
 it from time to time. The deficiency is sometimes supplied 
 ^ by grants from the Provincial Parliament. A neat chapel 
 is attached to the establishment. On the opposite side of 
 the road are two houses, one of which was appropriated 
 to the treatment of persons labouring under insanity, who 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 113 
 
 have since been removed to the Government Lunatic 
 Asylum at Beauport, and the other as a dwelling-house for 
 servants employed in a farm belonging to the establishment. 
 
 A day’s excursion to Indian Lorette and Lake St. 
 Charles would gratify, we doubt not, many a Tourist. It 
 will be necessary to leave by six o’clock, A. M.. and to 
 take provisions for the day. A caliche is the best con- 
 veyance for the trip. After leaving the Palace Gate, the 
 site of the former Intendant’s Palace is passed. M. Bigot 
 was the last Intendant who resided in it. 
 
 The most pleasant road to Lorette is along the banks 
 of the St. Charles. On arriving at the village, the best 
 view is on the opposite bank. The fall is in the fore- 
 ground, and the church and village behind. The villagers 
 claim to be descended from those Hurons, to whom^he 
 French Monarch in 16 .ol gave the seigniory of Sillery. 
 In the wars between the French and English the Hurons 
 contributed much to the success of the' former, as they 
 were one of the most warlike tribes among the aborigines 
 of this continent. At present they area harmless quiet 
 set of people, drawing only part of their subsistence from 
 fishing and hunting. A Missionary is maintained by 
 Government for their religious instruction, and the school- 
 master belongs to the tribe. Here may be purchased 
 bows and arrows, and moccasins very neatly ornamented 
 bj the squaws. 
 
 On arriving at Lake St. Charles, by embarking in a 
 double canoe, the tourist will have hi.s taste for picturesque 
 mountain scenery gratified in a high degree. Tlie lake is 
 
the CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 four miles long and one broad, and is divided into two parts 
 by projecting ledges. The lake abounds in trout, so that 
 the ano-lintr tourist may find this spot doubly inviting. On 
 the route Lck to the city the .village of Charlesbourg is 
 passed. It is one of the oldest and most interesting settle- 
 ments in Canada. It has two churches, one of which is 
 the centre of the surrounding farms, whence they all radi- 
 ate. The reason for this singular disposal of the allotments 
 arose from the absolute necessity of creating a neighbour- 
 hood. For this purpose each farm was permitted to oc- 
 cupy only a space of three acres in front by thirty in depth. 
 Population was in these days scanty, and labourers were 
 difficult to be procured. By this arrangement a road was 
 more easily kept up in front of each farm, and it was the 
 duty of every proprietor to preserve such road. Another 
 advantage was the proximity of the church, whence the bell 
 sounded the tocsin of alarm, whenever hostile attempts 
 were made by the Indians, and where the inhabitants 
 rallied in defence of their possessions. ■ 
 
 In this place we are desirous to acknowledge our 
 obligations to the labours of Alfred Hawkins, Esq. 
 whole “ Picture of Quebec with Historical Recollec- 
 tions” we cordially recommend to ail Travellers and 
 others, who would possess themselves of a work re- 
 plete with minute information on the previous history and 
 present condition of this Province. We take the liberty 
 of presenting our readers almost verbatim with the fol- 
 lowing interesting extracts, and thus conclude our notice 
 of the ancient Capital of Canada.— The approach to the 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 115 
 
 Citadel, which is nearly two hundred feet higher than the 
 ground on which the Upper Town is situated, is by a 
 winding road made through the acclivity of the Glacis 
 from St. Louis Gate, and commanded everywhere by the 
 guns of the different bastions. This leads into the out- 
 ward ditch of the ravelin, and thence into the principal 
 ditch of the work, built on both sides with walls of solid 
 masonry, and extending along the whole circumference of 
 the Citadel on the land and city sides. The main entrance 
 is through a massive gate of admirable construction, called 
 Dalhousie Gate in honour of the Earl of Dalhousie, who 
 succeeded the Duke of Richmond, as Governor-in-Chief 
 of these Provinces, in 1820. Within are the Main- 
 Guard-rooms for a detachment and an officer, wlio are 
 relieved every day ; and in front is a spacious area used 
 as a parade-ground, or rather an enlargement of the ditch 
 formed by the retiring angles and face of the bastion. 
 This is a splendid work, presenting a most august appear- 
 ance, and combining strength and symmetry w’ith all the 
 modern improvements in the art of fortification. In the 
 face of this bastion are loopholes for the fire of musquetry ; 
 on the top are embrasures for cannon. The loopholes 
 serve also for the admission of air and light into the case- 
 mated barracks within for the troops composing the Gar- 
 rison. They are commodious and well adapted for com- 
 fort and safety, being well ventilated, and proof against 
 fire and missiles of every description. On the top of 
 Dalhousie Bastion is an extensive covered way, or broad 
 gravel walk, with embrasures for mounting cannon, com- 
 
116 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 manding every part of the Ditch and Glacis, and every 
 avenue of approach to the Citadel. From this elevated 
 spot is obtained an extensive and delightful view of the 
 surrounding scentry, forming a panorama that competent 
 judges have pronounced not inferior to the celebrated 
 Bay of Naples. An equally magnificent view is obtained 
 from the summit of the Cavalier, at the eastern ex- 
 tremity of the Citadel, and also from the Observatory 
 on its western point towards the Plains of Abraham. 
 
 ^ Within the Citadel are the various magazines, store- 
 houses, and other buildings required for the accom- 
 modation of a numerous Garrison ; and immediately 
 overhanging the precipice to the south, in a most pic- 
 turesque situation looking perpendicularly downwards 
 on the Biver, stands a beautiful row of buildings, 
 containing the mess rooms and barracks for the officers, 
 their stables and spacious kitchens. The fortifications, 
 which are continued round the whole of the Upper Town, 
 consist of bastions connected by lofty curtains of solid 
 masonry, and ramparts from twenty-five to thirty-five feet 
 in height and about the same in thickness, bristling with 
 heavy cannon, round towers, loopholed walls, and mas- 
 sive gates recurring at certain distances. On the summit 
 of the Ramparts from Cape Diamond to the Artillery 
 Barracks is a broad covered-way or walk, used as a place 
 of recreation by the inhabitants, and commanding a most 
 agreeable view of the country towards the west. This 
 passes over the top of St. John’s and St. Louis Gate,, 
 where there is statipned a .sergeant’s guard. Above St 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 117 
 
 Jolin’s Gate there is at sunset one of the most beautiful 
 views imaginable. The St. Charles gamboling, as it were, 
 in the rays of the departing luminary, the light still linger- 
 ing on the spires of Lorette and Charleshourg until it 
 fades away beyond the lofty mountains of Bonkomme and 
 'rsounonthuan^ present an evening scene of gorgeous and 
 surpassing splendour. — The city, being defended on the 
 land side by its ramparts, is protected on the other sides 
 by a lofty wall and parapet, based on the cliff and com- 
 mencing near the St. Charles at the Artillery Barracks. 
 These form a very extensive range of buildings, the part 
 within the Artillery-Gate being occupied as barracks by 
 the officers and men of that distinguished corps, with a 
 guard and mess room. 'The part without the Gate is used 
 as magazines, storehouses, and offices for the Ordnance 
 Department. These buildings were erected by the French 
 before 17.^0 on the site of others which had formerly 
 stood there. They are well s’ecured against fire, and are 
 nearly six hundred feet in length by about forty in depth. 
 — Immediately adjoining the Artillery Barracks, and con- 
 necting the works on the left with their continuation along 
 the St. Charles, stands Palace-Gate, having a guard-house 
 attached on the right. This has lately been rebuilt, and 
 is the most classical and beautiful of the five Gates. 
 Though perfectly strong for all purposes of defence, it 
 has an airy and light appearance, not unlike in design the 
 gates of Pompeii. It stands at the northern extremity of 
 Palace Street, which was so called from leading to the 
 Tntendant’s House or Palace, which formerly stood on the 
 
118 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 beach of the St. Charles outside of the Gate, on the site 
 of the [present Queen’s Wood-yard. This building was 
 destroyed during the siege by the American troops under 
 General Arnold in 1775. From Palace-Gate the fortifi- 
 cations are continued along the brow of the cliff overlook- 
 ing the mouth of the St. Charles until they reach Hope, 
 Gate, a distance of three hundred yards. A broad and 
 level walk divides the outward wall from the possessions 
 of the community of the Hotel-Dieu. The wall near 
 Hope-Gate and Guard-house is loopholed for musquetry. 
 At Hope-Gate commences the gradual elevation of the 
 ground which terminates at the eastern point of Cape Dia- 
 mond. Heyond the Gate the wall is continued until it 
 reaches a point opposite St. George Street and the store 
 house at the angle of the Se\ninary Garden. Here it 
 reaches the perpendicular cliff Sault au Matelot^ or 
 tehfs (Sailor’s) Leap^ so called from a favourite dog of 
 that name that there fell over the cliff, on part of which 
 Champlain commenced his first settlement in 1608. From 
 this eminence the Grand Battery, mounting a range of 
 heavy guns carrying balls of thirty-two pounds, commands 
 the Basin and Harbour below. In front of the * Grand 
 Battery, which extends to the Bishop’s Palace, and where 
 the escarpment of the clift is nearly three hundred feet 
 above the water, the stone parapet is but a few feet high. 
 The black artillery, as Professor Silliman observes, look 
 like beasts of prey crouching and ready to leap upon their 
 victims. ” — Close to the Bishop’s Palace, long used 
 as the place where the Provincial Legislature met, 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 119 
 
 is Prescott-Gate with its Guard-house. Under its 
 arch is the principal avenue to the Lower-Town bj 
 Mountain Street. It is protected by powerful defences, 
 and bj works which connect it on the right with the for- 
 mer Castle of St. Louis. Here the stone-rampart forms 
 part of that ruin, and is supported by buttresses built upon 
 the solid rock, and immediately overlooking the Lower 
 Town, at an elevation of more than two hundred feet. 
 To the south-west side of the Castle is the Government 
 Garden, one hundred and eighty yards long by seventy 
 broad, within which a small battery commands part of the 
 harbour. In front, the fortifications are continued three 
 hundred yards, until they reach the foot of the Glacis or 
 acclivity towards Cape Diamond, crowned at that point 
 by the Round Tower and Flagstaff. The extent of the 
 Fi-amparts towards the land-side, from the south-west an- 
 gle of the citadel to the clfff above the St. Charles, is 
 stated to be eighteen hundred and thirty-seven yards* 
 Within this rampart is the Esplanade, a level space cover- 
 ed with grass, between St. Louis and St. John’s Gates. 
 Here are mounted the several guards on duty at the 
 Citadel and other public buildings each forenoon, except 
 Sabbath, at eleven o’clock ; and here occasional parades 
 of the Garrison take place, particularly on the Queen’s 
 birth-day. The circuit of the Fortifications enclosing 
 the Upper Town is two miles and three quarters ; the total 
 circumference outside the ditches and space reserved by 
 Government, on which no house can be built on the west 
 siJe, is about three miles. Generally speaking, the City 
 
120 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 may be said to be entirely surrounded by a lofty and strong 
 wall of hewn stone, constructed with elegance as well as 
 with regard to durability. The castellated appearance 
 produced by the battlements, ditches, embrasures, round 
 towers and gates, adds much to its grand and imposing 
 effect from without. There are five Gates, opening in dif- 
 ferent directions to the country, the suburbs, and the 
 Lower Town. Towards the south-w^est are St. John’s 
 and St. Louis Gates, protected by out-works of great 
 strength and powerful combination. Through the latter 
 is the road leading to the Plains of Abraham and the 
 Race-conrse. On the left of this road, on the brow of a 
 slight ascent about halfw'ay to the Race-Stand, is one of 
 the four Martello Towers erected at different distances 
 between the St. I^awrence and the St. Charles. On 
 these are mounted cannon to sweep the undefended plain 
 below ; and they are so constructed that, if taken by an 
 enemy, they can be easily laid in ruins by the shot of the 
 Garrison, while on the side facing the Plains they are of 
 immense thickness. Through St. John’s Gate passes the 
 road to the populous suburb of that name and to the beau- 
 tiful village of St. Poy. Palace-Gate and Hope-Gate 
 open to the St. Charles and the Lower Town. Prescott- 
 Gate is the principal thoroughfare to the Low^er Town, 
 and notwithstanding the steepness of the ascent, heavy 
 burdens are conveyed up with comparative ease hy the 
 small, but hardy, horses of Norman breed, which the 
 carters generally employ. Hope Gate and Prescott Gate 
 are called in honour of the Lieutenant Generals and 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 121 
 
 Commanders-in-Chief, Henry Hope (1775) and Robert 
 Prescott (1796-9). — Having made the circuit of the 
 Fortifications, it seems necessary to notice the different 
 barracks and military buildings for the accomodation of 
 the troops composing the Garrison. Besides those con- 
 tained within the Citadel and the Artillery Barracks, the 
 spacious building in the iVlarket-Place, formerly the Col- 
 lege of the Jesuits, has long been occupied by the Queen’s 
 troops under the name of the ‘‘ Jesuits’ Barracks.” The 
 principal entrance is from the Market-Place, opposite the 
 French Cathedral. To the left of this entrance is a large 
 door opening into a hall. Here is the room set apart for 
 the Garrison Library, the property of the military, con- 
 taining many valuable books and maps. A little beyond 
 the Gate is the Barrack-office, nearly opposite to the 
 Scotch Church. — In the Place d’Armes, opposite to the 
 Court-House, is the Commissariat Office. — About halfway 
 between this and St. Louis Gate is a building on the left, 
 occupied as quarters for such officers of the Garrison as 
 do not reside in the Citadel, in rear of which is the spaci- 
 ous mess-room. — At the end of an avenue or court lead- 
 ing out of St. Louis Street is the Military Hospital, 
 a budding completely provided with every necessary 
 appointment. — Adjoining to the St. Louis Gate, and 
 fronting to the Esplanade, is ihe Royal Engineer Office ; 
 and in the rear are the spacious yard and workshops of the 
 Royal Sappers and Miners, a detachment of which corps 
 is always stationed in (Quebec. The officers of the Royal 
 Engineers have charge of the fortifications and of all mili- 
 
122 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 tary works.— The Government Laboratory is on the right 
 hand of the road leading to the Citadel, opposite to the 
 Royal Engineer Yard, and stands on the site of an old 
 powder magazine, close to which the remains of General 
 Monto'omery were interred on January 4th, 1776. The 
 following elegant peroratiorv is from the pen of Professor 
 Silliman, who visited Quebec in 1819 
 
 « Quebec, at least for an American city, is certainly a 
 very peculiar place. A military town— containing about 
 twenty thousand inhabitants — most compactly and perma- 
 nently built— environed, as to its most important parts, by 
 walls and gates — and defended by nnmerous heavy cannon 
 
 garrisoned by troops having the arms, the costume, the 
 
 music, the discipline, of Europe— foreign in language, feat- 
 ures and origin, from most of those whom they are sent to 
 defend— founded upon a rock, and in its highest parts 
 overlooking a great extent of country — between three and 
 four hundred miles from the ocean— in the midst of a great 
 continent and yet displaying fleets of foreign merchantmen 
 in its fine capacious bay-r-and showing all the bustle of a 
 crowded sea-port — its streets narrow, populous, and wind- 
 ing up and down almost mountainous declivities — situated 
 in the latitude of the finest parts of Europe — exhibiting in 
 its environs the beauty of an European capital— and yet 
 in winter smarting with the cold of Siberia — governed by 
 a people of different language and habits from the mass 0i 
 the population — opposed in religion, and yet leaving that 
 population without taxes and in the full enjoyment of every 
 privilege, civil and religious. Such are the prominent 
 
THE CA5?ADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 123 
 
 features which strike a stranger in the city of Quebec !” 
 The Tourist will of course visit the Fall of Montmo- 
 renci, and, if an admirer of nature in her lovely grandeur, 
 may be induced thereafter to extend his excursion to the 
 Falls of St. Anne (a distance of upwards of twenty miles 
 from Quebec), which many travellers have pronounced 
 unsurpassed in any quarter of the globe. For this pur- 
 pose he will leave the City by passing over Dorchester 
 Bridge across the St. Charles, whence he will pass alon^^ 
 pleasant cottages and handsome villas to the village of 
 Beauport, in which is conspicuous the Church with its 
 three spires. The admirably managed Lunatic Asy- 
 lum for Eastern Canada is situated close to the vil- 
 lage. Before reaching the Mills a road on the left 
 leads to the hamlet of Bourg Royal at the base of 
 the mountains. Two miles beyond are the remains of an 
 old French chateau with a scanty clearance embosomed 
 by the forest. It was built by a French Tntendant or 
 Governor for his mistress. Notwithstanding tlie se- 
 clusion of the spot his wife discovered the secret, and 
 found means to have her rival poisoned. The habi- 
 tans superstitiously consider the spot as haunted by the 
 spirit of the unhappy one. During General Wolfe’s siege 
 the ladies of Quebec took shelter here, and were undis- 
 covered. In the neighbourhood of the Fall the geologist 
 may find not a little to interest him. The Fall is near- 
 ly two hundred and fifty feet high, thus greatly exceeding 
 the Falls of Niagara. It was named by Champlain in 
 honour of his patron, the Duke de Montmorenci, prime 
 
124 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 minister of France. The mansion-house, close to the 
 Fall, and commanding the best view of it, was built hj 
 General Haldimand, who was the last Governor of the 
 Province of Quebec Irom 1778 to 1/91. It was after- 
 wards occupied by the Duke of Kent, father of Queen 
 Victoria, and is now in the possession of d. B. Hail, 
 Esq., the proprietor of the extensive .saw-mills at the foot 
 of the Fall. Near this place Wolfe made his first 
 attempt, and was repulsed with the loss of seven hundred 
 Hessians. On the opposite side of the vvooden bridge 
 thrown across the Montmorenci, stands a house for the 
 reception of travellers, whence is an excellent view of the 
 Fall, as it embraces the village of Beauport and the city 
 of Quebec. Another good view is from the top of the 
 aqueduct, by which the water is conveyed for nearly a 
 mile to the Mills. The Old Mill has ten saw-gates con- 
 taining seventy saws, and eleven circular saws. The 
 New Mill has two saw-gates with forty saws, and three 
 circular saws. The extraordinary appearance, called the 
 Natural Steps, is worthy of attention. It may be re- 
 marked as an object of interest to the naturalist, that^ 
 when the St. Lawrence is frozen below the Fall, the level 
 ice becomes a support on which the freezing spray, de- 
 scending as sleet, forms a stupendous deposit, and gradual- 
 ly assumes a conical form of great dimensions towards the 
 close of winter. These dimensions vary in each season 
 according to the quantity of spray which the water pro- 
 duces. In 1829 the cone aj;tained the height of one 
 hundred and twenty-six feet, the highest it has been ob- 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST^ 
 
 125 
 
 served to attain. The face of the cone next the Fall 
 presents a stalactitical structure, occasioned by the dash- 
 ing of the water against it. The whole is tinged with an 
 earthy hue, which is no doubt derived from the very 
 minute particles of the bed of the Montmorenci conveyed 
 with the spray into the atmosphere. The formation of 
 this cone may serve to explain the mode in which glaciers 
 have been formed. It is manifest, that, were the supply 
 of frozen spray never interrupted by an increase of tem- 
 perature, as is annually the case, the cone’s dimensions 
 would incessantly increase. If the cone rested on an 
 inclined plane instead of a horizontal base, the enlarging 
 bulk and increasing weight would at length cause its sub- 
 sidence to lower levels. As the portion thus deposited 
 would continue to receive accessions from above, a perma- 
 ment frozen mass would be the result, and the cone would 
 become a slacier. Professor Forbes treats of this sub- 
 ject in a most interesting and scientific manner m his 
 “ Travels in the Alps.” — A Suspension Bridge is erecting 
 immediately over the Falls, which will add greatly to the 
 effect of this charming scene. It is unnecessary to enumer- 
 ate the variety of features in Canadian scenery which may 
 induce the Tourist to loiter on the road between Mont- 
 morenci and St. Anne. At this season of the year groups 
 of Canadians of both sexes may be seen busily employed 
 in hacMing or beating flax. On most of the farms there 
 is raised a quantity sufficient for the consumption of each 
 family. Indeed the stranger cannot fail to have observed, 
 that the country population is chiefly clothed in home- 
 
126 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 spun woollen cloth and coarse linen, although English 
 broad-cloth and Irish linens may to a limited extent be 
 displayed on Sabbaths and fete-days. Chateau Richer, 
 one of the very few ruins in Canada/ belonging to the 
 Seminary, is interesting from historical associations. Its 
 environs afford abun-.^ant sport to snipe-shooters. Two 
 miles beyond the Chateau it is worth the Tourists while 
 to devote half an hour to the Falls ot La Buce. Ihe 
 Church of '' La bonne Ste. Anne” has long been an ob- 
 ject of interest from the miraculous cures said to have 
 been wroucrht on the visitors to the shrine. The walls dis- 
 play crutches and other helps to suffering humanity, with 
 which the halt and the lame were enabled to dispense, and 
 which they left as memorials of the efficacy of their faith 
 in the power of the Saint ! In connection with St. Anne 
 it may be stated that pigeons in vast numbers yearly visit 
 Canada, when the inhabitants not only get an ample supply 
 for their own subsistence, but send such numbers to mar- 
 ket that in Quebec they are sold at as low a price as a 
 shilling per dozen, and sometimes even at a less rate. The 
 parishioners of St. Anne are much spoken of for the suc- 
 cessful means which they have adopted for killing and 
 taking alive thousands of these birds ; and the stranger 
 on enquiry can learn the method, by which the sportsman 
 seldom fails to bring down all the pigeons as they settle 
 on the loftiest trees, and how, by means of perpendicular 
 nets and poles managed by pulleys, whole flocks are 
 entrapped. Two miles beyond the village of St. Anne, 
 at the Toll-bridge on the river of this name, the Tourist 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 127 
 
 may be comfortably accommodated, and will meet with 
 civility and kindness. Hence he can procure a guide to 
 the Falls, which are situated about three miles further on. 
 The ascent commands extensive views of Quebec and the 
 surrounding country. After continuing his journey for a 
 mile and a half on a level but rather rough and wearisome 
 path through a forest, the Tourist suddenly descends and 
 finds himself enclosed in a rocky and wooded valley, 
 through the centre of which rushes the St. Anne, and, 
 forcino; itself through a narrow chasm of the rocks at an 
 angle of forty-five degrees, continues to roar and tumble 
 to the River below. We cannot aftbrd space here for a 
 description of the variety of awfully grand and imposing- 
 scenes, which a visit to these magnificent Falls will present 
 to the Tourist’s view. Suffice it to say, that the time 
 slips unconsciously away, and, surprised by the information 
 that he has been on the spot for hours, be at length reluc- 
 tantly turns aways, consoling himself with the reflection 
 that he can never efface the sublime picture from his mind. 
 
 The Tourist should next cross from Quebec to Fointe 
 Levi, with which a steam-ferry-boat keeps up a cons- 
 tant communication, with the view of visiting the Falls 
 of the Chaudiere, distant about eight miles. On ascend- 
 ing the bank, and from different points along the entire 
 road to the mouth of the Chaudiere^ he will be gratified 
 with imposing views of Quebec and its shippings and sur- 
 rounding scenery, including the Isle of Orleans, the Fall 
 of Montmorenci, and the Plains of Abraham. Several 
 neat villas adorn the road, in which citizens of Quebec re- 
 
128 ' 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 side during the summer season. At a short distance be- 
 yond Lauzon, the seat of Sir Henry Caldwell, which is in 
 a cliarming situation, you cross the Etchemin by a wooden 
 bridge. At its embouchure is a large causeway leading to 
 this gentleman’s mills, an establishment well worthy of in- 
 spection. I'hereafter the leftside of the road is overshad- 
 owed by lofty rocks till it reaches the Chaudiere, which is 
 crossed by a ferry. Three miles beyond is a new road to the 
 left, by pursuing which for a mile, availing yourself of a 
 guide, who may be procured hard by, you will reach this 
 celebrated Fall. Although yielding in grandeur to Nia- 
 gara and Montmorenci, it possesses features more inter- 
 estino' than either. The river, in its course of one hun- 
 dred miles over a rugged bed full ot rapids and falls, is 
 here narrowed to a width of between three hundred and 
 four hundred feet, and is precipitated over a height of 
 about one hundred and thirty feet, preserving the charac- 
 teristic features of its boiling waters till it mingles with 
 the St. Lawrence. Hence it has received the appropri- 
 ate name of Chaudiere or Caldron, Instead of descend- 
 ing in one continuous sheet, it is divided by large project- 
 ing rocks into three channels or cataracts, which however 
 unite before reaching the basin below. A globular figure 
 is imparted to the descending volumes of brilliant white 
 foam, in consequence of the deep excavations of the rocks, 
 and the clouds of spray produce in the sunshine a most 
 brilliant variety of prismatic colours. The dark green 
 foliage of the dense forests that overhang the torrent on 
 both sides, forms a striking contrast with its snow-white 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 129 
 
 foam. If the Tourist should be so minded, on returning 
 half way to Pointe Levi, he may visit the Falls of the 
 Etchemin by taking the road to his right. On returning 
 to Pointe Levi, he may find time to walk to Aubigny 
 Church, and wander for a while amongst the glades in 
 front ofdt. In recrossing the St. Lawrence, the Tourist 
 may be reminded of the striking contrast which the winter 
 season presents here on land and water. Then the river 
 is generally choked up with broken fields of ice exhibiting 
 an endless variety of fantastic appearances. The habi- 
 tans cross in canoes, and are frequently obliged to haul 
 and push them forward among the blocks of ice. It is a 
 rare occurrence for the ice lo be quite firm between Que- 
 bec and Pointe Levi. When this is the case a sort 
 of jubilee is indulged in, and persons are seen enjoying 
 themselves in every direction by sleighing, sliding, skating, 
 curling, &c. A ready communication betwixt both shores 
 then takes place, as the track marked out by means of pine- 
 branches as beacons, forms a road, over which hay, fire- 
 wood, and other bulky articles are transported in traineaux 
 or sledges. A similar laying-out of roads takes | lace on 
 the taking of the River at all the important thoroughfares, 
 as in front of Montreal, Three Rivers, &c. The channel 
 between the Isle of Orleans and the North Shore is frozen 
 over annually, when the produce of that fertile spot can 
 be conveyed to market. 
 
 Thus far we have brought our companions, and various 
 are the scenes of interest we have visited with them, but 
 we fear with many our fellowship will cease at the wharves 
 
130 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 of the ancient city ; yet we trust that ^ large “ balance,” 
 to use an Americanism, will still continue their journey 
 East, for a voyage to the Saguenay and the Lower St. 
 Lawrence offers temptation^ that ought not to be resisted. 
 Formerly thie voyage was only made by the young and the 
 hardy, for no means existed of reaching it except in fish- 
 ing schooners or open boats. Now, things are entirely 
 changed, steamboats, well fitted for the work, leave Que- 
 bec twice a week, and ere this summer’s navigation closes 
 probably daily. In any of these the trip may be made in 
 perfect comfort and even luxury. For what these induce- 
 ments are and how the time may be spent, we avail our- 
 selves of the description of one of last years voyages, 
 furnished by a gentleman equally capable of appreciating 
 and describing the scenery through which he passed. 
 
 Trip to the Saguenay. 
 
 The Saguenay River can only be visited by to urists 
 when there happens to be a steamboat put on for that ex- 
 cursion especially, which is generally once a week, from 
 (iuebec during the summer months. You leave in the 
 morning at seven o’clock, and passing down the St. Law- 
 rence, put in at several places for passengers, which gives 
 an opportunity of seeing the habitaiis, and the old 
 fashioned French settlements of St. Thomas, River 
 Quelle, Kamouraska, and many others, together with 
 Orleans Island, Crane Island, Goose Island and the Pil- 
 grims. The north and south shores of the river are 
 thiclily studded with parish churches, having spires of tia 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 131 
 
 which glitter in the sun like shining silver ; these, and the 
 whitewashed farm-houses, form two objects characteristic 
 of Lower Canada. By sunset you arrive at River du 
 Loup. The water is quite salt, and the river, expanding 
 to the breadth of twenty miles, gives it the appearance of 
 an open sea; and it is much frequented as a sea-bathing 
 place. 
 
 “ Here you remain all night on board, so as to be ready 
 for an early start at dawn, when you stretch across for the 
 north shore, steering for a great gap in the mountains. 
 This is the mouth of the Saguenay, one of the most sin- 
 gular rivers in the world; not a common river, with undu- 
 lating banks and shelving shores, and populous villages : 
 not a river precipitous on one side, and rolling land on the 
 other, formed by the washing away of the mountains for 
 ages. This is not a river of that description. It is per- 
 fectly straight, with a sheer precipice on each side, without 
 any windings, or projecting bluffs, or sloping banks, or 
 sandy shores. It is as if the mountain range had been 
 cleft asunder, leaving a horrid gulf of sixty miles in length, 
 and four thousand feet in depth, through the grey mica 
 schist ; and still looking new and fresh. Fifteen hundred 
 feet of this is perpendicular cliff, often too steep and solid 
 for the hemlock or dwarf oak to find root ; in which case, 
 being covered with coloured lichens and moss, these fresh 
 looking fractures often look, in shape and colour, like 
 painted fans, and are called the pictured rocks. But those 
 parts, more slanting, are thickly covered with stunted 
 trees, spruce and maple, and birch, growing wherever they 
 
132 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST* 
 
 can find crevices to extract nourishment: and the bare 
 roots of the oak, grasping the rock, have a resemblance 
 to gigantic clavirs. The base of these cliffs lie far under 
 water, to an unknown depth. For many miles from its 
 mouth, no soundings have been obtained with two thousand 
 feet of line, and for the entire distance of sixty miles, 
 until you reach Ha Ha Bay, the largest ships can sail 
 without obstruction from banks or shoals, and on reaching 
 the extremity of the bay can drop their anchor in thirty 
 fathoms. 
 
 “ The view up this river is singular in many respects, 
 hour after hour, as you sail along, precipice after precipice 
 unfolds itself to view, as in a moving panorama, and you 
 sometimes forget the size and height of the objects you 
 are contemplating, until reminded by seeing a ship of one 
 thousand tons lying like a small pinnace under the tower- 
 ing cliff to which she is moored ; for, even in these remote 
 and desolate regions, industry is at work, and, although 
 you cannot much discern it, saw-mills have been built on 
 some of the tributary streams which fall into the Saguenay. 
 But what strikes one most, is the absence of beach or 
 strand, for except in a few places where mountain torrents, 
 rushing through gloomy ravines, have washed down the 
 detritus of the hills, and formed some alluvial land at the 
 mouth, no coves, nor creeks, nor projecting rocks are seen 
 in which a boat could find shelter, or any footing be 
 obtained. The characteristic is a steep wall of rock ris- 
 ing abruptly from the water ; a dark and desolate region, 
 where all is cold and gloomy ; the mountains hidden with 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 133 
 
 driving mist, the water black as ink, and cold as ice. No 
 ducks, nor sea gulls sitting on the water, or screaming for 
 their prey. No hawks nor eagles soaring overhead, 
 although there is abundance of what might be called 
 ^ Eagle Cliffs,’ No deer coming down to drink at the 
 streams, no squirrels nor birds to be seen among the trees. 
 No fly on the water, nor swallow skimming over the sur- 
 face. It reminds you of 
 
 That lake whose gloomy shore 
 
 Sky-lark never warbled over.” 
 
 Two living tilings you may see, but these are cold blooded 
 animals; you may see the cold seal, spreading himself 
 upon his clammy rock, watching for his prey. You may 
 see him make his sullen plunge into the water, like to the 
 *5tyx for blackness. You may see him emerge again, 
 shaking his smooth oily sides, and holding a huge livin<r 
 salmon writhing in his teeth ; and you may envy the fellow 
 faring so sumptuously, until you recollect that you have 
 Just had a hearty breakfast ot fresh grilled salmon your- 
 self, and that you enjoyed it as much as your fellow crea- 
 ture is now enjoying his raw morsel. And this is all you 
 see for the first twenty miles, save the ancient settlement 
 of Tadousac at the entrance, and the pretty cove of 
 r/Ance a I’Eau, which is a fishing station. 
 
 “ Now you reach Cape Eternite, Cape Trinit6, and many 
 other overhanging cliffs, remarkable for having such clean 
 fractures, seldom equalled for boldness and effect, which 
 create constant apprehensions of danger, even in a calm, 
 but if you happen to be caught in a thunder-storm, the 
 
134 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 roar and darkness and flashes of lightning are perfectly 
 appalling. At last you terminate your voyage at Ha Ha 
 Bay, that is, smiling or laughing Bay in the Indian langu- 
 age, for you are perfectly charmed and relieved to arrive 
 at a beautiful spot where you have sloping banks, a pebbly 
 shore, boats and wherries, and vessels riding at anchor, 
 birds and animals, a village, a church, French Canadians 
 and Scottish Highlanders, and in short, there is nothing 
 can remind one more of a scene in Argyleshire. You 
 have now come upon a more level and productive region, 
 where trees grow to some size, where saw-logs can be 
 got, where saw-mills can be erected, where agriculture 
 can be carried on, where excellent wheat is raised, and 
 heavier crops of clover and meadow grass than can be 
 found in more southern parts, and where plenty of vegeta- 
 bles can be rai^ed in gardens. In short, from this spot 
 to the Ottawa river, in rear of the group of mountains 
 which bounds the north of the St. Lawrence, there lies an 
 extensive valley of excellent land, much better than what 
 is on the borders of the river, and with a climate some- 
 what milder, and this valley will by degrees be cultivated 
 and support a million of people. The day is now half 
 spent, you have been ashore, looking through the village, 
 examining into the nature of what appears a very thriving 
 settlement, the inhabitants seem to be all French and 
 Scotch, understanding each others language, and living 
 in perfect amity. You hear that Mr. Price, of Quebec, 
 is the gentleman to whom all this improvement is due. 
 That it is he who has opened up the Saguenay country. 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 135 
 
 having erected many saw-mills, each the nucleus of a vil- 
 and that a trade in sawed lumber is carried on to 
 the extent of one hundred ship loads in the season. The 
 river is navigable for ships as far as Chicoutimi, about 
 seventy mdes from its mouth. An extensive lumbering 
 establishment is there, and the timber is collected in 
 winter through all the neighbouring country as far as Lake 
 St. John, which is fifty miles further up, and is the grand 
 source of the Saguenay. 
 
 ‘‘ After having seen and heard all this, you get on hoard, 
 weigh anchor, pass again down the river, reviewing the 
 solemn scene, probably meet neither vessel, boat nor 
 canoe, through all the dreary way, and arrive at the 
 mouth of the river in time to cross to River du Loup, 
 where you again find a safe harbour for the night. Next 
 day you again pass up the St. Lawrence, stopping for a 
 short time at Murray Bay, a beautiful grassy valley on 
 the North Shore, surrounded by wooded mountains, and 
 ' much frequented by Quebec families as a bathing place. 
 You arrive at Quebec in the evening, thus taking just 
 three days for your excursion at an expence of about $12.” 
 
 Quebec to Richmoud by Railway. 
 
 i Having thus visited the Ultima Thule of Canadian 
 > scenery having seen all that the St. Lawrence can offer 
 J from the sublime Niagara, with its beauties lying amid 
 » civilization and civilized life, to the wild and stern '"shores 
 ^ of the Saguenay, the tourist may now fairly turn his face 
 ' homeward, and we shall, with his permission, accompany 
 
236 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 him yet a little way on his journeying, as in fact our routes 
 are the same at least to Montreal. This we suggest doing 
 by railway. A steamer carries us across from Quebec to 
 the Station of the Grand Trunk Railway Company, at 
 Hadlow Cove, where wharves, engine-houses and a turn- 
 table have been constructed at a great expense, and of a 
 very durable- description. At first the road keeps along 
 the banks of the river as far as Point Levi Mdls, where 
 it commences an ascent to what is called the Gap, by a fifty 
 feet gradient three and a-half miles, and thence to the 
 Chaudiere, of which we have already spoken. The point 
 of crossing is only a short way above the falls, thus ren- 
 dering a visit to them much more easy than hitherto, 
 though we still describe the old route for those who prefer 
 a smart trot behind a fast Canadian pony and a good view 
 of the country and its people, to the rapid and view des- 
 troying railroad-car. The railway bridge is of iron, rest- 
 ing on nine piers, and to all but the traveller, who cannot 
 see much of it, is an object of great attraction. 
 
 The road is through a country that, for the greater part, 
 is thinly settled, yet the intelligent observer will remark 
 that the land is of a superior quality nearly throughout, so 
 that in a few years a large population will soon occupy it. 
 As.it is there are only two or three villages on the whole 
 route, Somerset, Stanfold and Danville being the most 
 thriving. At Richmond, ninety-six miles from Quebec, 
 the road joins the Portland and Montreal branch— distant 
 from the latter seventy miles. At Richmond the company 
 have built a very comfortable station-house, with engine- 
 houses, workshops, &c., on a large scale. 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 137 
 
 At this place the cars from Montreal to Portland meet 
 those we have just arrived in from Quebec, and keep the 
 track clear.” We shall go back to Montreal to meet 
 and bring along those of our friends who may have stopped 
 short there. 
 
 Montreal to Riclimoiul by Railway* 
 
 Travellers going South have the choice of tiiree routes, 
 one by the St. Lawrence and Champlain Pvailroad, 
 another by the Montreal and New York Railroad, via 
 Plattsburgh, whence passengers are conveyed by steamer 
 to Biirlington, where they have a choice of routes, and the 
 third by the Eastern Townships to Portland. If the first 
 is preferred the ferry steamboat must be taken to St. 
 Lambert, immediately opposite the city, where the cars 
 await the passengers—starting twice every day. If the 
 second, cars are taken to Lachine, thence across the St. 
 Lawrence to the Indian Village of Caughnawaga, and from 
 that by rail to Plattsburgh. The route by Portland is by 
 far the most interesting, and, though less known as yet, is 
 rapidly rising in the estimation of the travelling community. 
 And assuming that our friends will follow our advice, we 
 shall embark in the steamer for the Longueuil Station, 
 three miles below the town, and taking another view of 
 the lovely Island of St. Helens, join the cars for Portland. 
 
 The road proceeds through a dead level country, thickly 
 settled by Canadians, whose white-washed cottages and 
 long strips of land, with straight rail fences, gives a curious 
 and by no means pleasing aspect to the landscape. The 
 
138 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 first break on the monotony is the arrival at the E-icbelieit 
 lliver, a broad and clear stream, connecting Lake Cham- 
 plain with the St. Lawrence, into which it falls at Sorel. 
 The cars go slowly over the large bridge which spans the 
 river, and the traveller gets a beautiful view both up and 
 down — looking upon one of the most fertile districts of 
 Canada ; naturally, at least, fertile — for the impoverishing; 
 system of culture unfortunately pursued by the hdbitam has 
 nearly exhausted the soil. It would be unfair, however, 
 not to state that a great improvement begins to manifest 
 itself in this respect, so much so that we venture to say, if 
 the march of improvement goes on for ten years at ibe 
 rate it has down for the last five, the valley of the Riche- 
 lieu will again become the granary of Lower Canada, a 
 land flowing with milk and honey. 
 
 A mile or so after crossing the bridge the cars stop at 
 St. Hilaire Station. Immediately below the road is seen 
 the fine residence and grounds of Major Campbell, late 
 of the 7th Hussars, a Scotch gentleman, owner of the 
 Seigniory of Rouville. To the right is seen the Moun- 
 tain of Beloeil, one of those singular hills of which several 
 rise suddenly from the perfectly level country lying be- 
 tween the Vermont Mountains and the St. Lawrence. 
 To the top of this mountain there is a'good road, and from 
 the summit a superb view is obtained of the Richelieu, the 
 St. Lawrence, and the entrance to Lake Champlain. In 
 a basin near the top is a singular little lake of deep, clear, 
 and cool water. The distance from Montreal being so 
 little, a trip to visit the mountnin and the lake is a 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 139 
 
 favourite Saturday’s amusement for the good people of 
 the city, and the tourist, whose time permits, will find a 
 few hours stay here by no means unprofitably spent. 
 And if he chooses to delay longer he will find every com- 
 fort in the Hotel at the foot of the mountain, for which 
 accommodation the public is indebted to Major Campbell. 
 Around this place the traveller will see many symptoms of 
 the agricultural improvement above alluded to, and this 
 mainly owing to the example of the gentleman we have 
 just named, whose exertions to introduce improvement in 
 system, breeds of cattle, seeds, &c., among his censitairesy 
 are above all praise. 
 
 From St. Hilaire the cars proceed through the same 
 level country to St. Hyacinthe, and on the route there is 
 nothing to remark — every house and every farm so nearly 
 resembles those just past, all through the seignories, that 
 if vve could be set down after a dream in any one part of 
 the country, it would be impossible for him to tell whether 
 he was near Chambly, Sorel, Nicolet, or any where else 
 — all through, as the writer overheard a witty Cure say, we 
 have une maison, unfour^ un petit pout— une maisoriy 
 un foiu'y un petit pout — a house, an oven, a little bridge 
 —a house, an oven, and a little bridge, and so on forever. 
 St. Flyacinthe, however, offers a change. This is as 
 neaily as possible a purely French village, or rather town, 
 and is a remarkably clean thriving place. True it does 
 not double its population every five years, and most true 
 the inhabitants are almost all natives of the place, unlike 
 some of the western cities where no native over ten years 
 
14^0 TEIE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 old can be found. Still St. Hyaclntlie is an active 
 bustling little town with its three thousand cheerful Cana- 
 dian inhabitants. There is a College and an excellent 
 one — a Nunnery, several large Churches, a Court House 
 and .Tail. There is also an excellently supplied Market, 
 and one or two capital Hotels with civil and obliging hosts 
 who do not make long bills. In the neighbourhood are 
 many excellent gardens and orchards. 
 
 The train immediately on starting crosses the Yamaska 
 Hiver by a handsome bridge, and in a few minutes we find 
 ourselves in the bush — through which for a distance of 
 thirty miles the road runs. Now a few settlers break the 
 solitude with their clearings ; but still except at the 
 stations of Upton, A cton, and Durham, little has been done 
 to clear away the ancient forest which formerly divided 
 the Seigniories from the Eastern Townships. About 
 eight miles after leaving the Durham Station, after de- 
 scending the inclined plane between the two banks of a 
 deep cutting, the cars suddenly rush out into the valley of 
 St. Francis, crossing the river by a beautiful bridge full 
 fifty fe«t above the dark water below. We arc now into 
 an entirely different country — the level fields, narrow 
 farms, straight fences, and white-washed cottages, are 
 changed for a rolling and billy country, with rough 
 clearings, stumps, frame-houses, and all sorts of shaped 
 fields, with snake or straight fences as the case may be. 
 With the country we have changed the people. A few 
 minutes ago we beard nothing but French, and saw nothing 
 but the grey coats and blue caps of the light hearted 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 141 
 
 speakers — now all is English, with the staid business like 
 men of our race about the Station at Richmond, for here 
 we are at Fvichmond again ready to join our friends from 
 Quebec. 
 
 Kichnioiid to Gorham Station by Railway# 
 
 The view from this place is exceedingly pleasing, above 
 the station is seen the village of Richmond on the same 
 side of the river, with its College on the hill, and the new 
 Court-House on the other side, while immediately oppos- 
 ite is the pretty little village of Melbourne. Between runs 
 the St. Francis, here a broad but shallow river. All 
 around is a well cleared and well farmed country, both 
 banks sloping down to tlie clear water. From Richmond 
 the country is much as we have described all the way to 
 Sherbrooke. At Broropton Falls the cars stop at the St. 
 Francis Mills. These have been built only three years 
 ago by an enterprising firm from Maine, and it is said 
 are the largest and most complete saw-mills in Canada, 
 probably in the world. The dam turns the whole river to 
 the various flumes, and gives motion to ninety upright 
 saws, with several circular saws and machinery for cutting 
 laths, boxes, rails, rollers, &c. The mills are lighted by 
 gas, manufactured in a gasometer adjoining, but so . far 
 removed as to obviate all danger from fire — which is 
 further guarded against by a series of pipes and force 
 pumps, which can in a few minutes deluge the whole build- 
 ing, and are worked by the water power. 
 
 Although built in 1854, already a thriving village is 
 
142 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 built around the mills. The timber is cut around the head 
 waters of the St. Francis, and the quantity got out every 
 year may be judged of if the passenger will keep his eye 
 from this up to Sherbrooke on the river, which is literally 
 covered, a distance of eight miles, with floating pine logs. 
 
 Sherbrooke is the next place reached, and is the capital 
 of the Eastern Townships. It is a place of some impor- 
 tance, and rapidly increasing — its present population is 
 over three thousand. The town is situated on the St. 
 Francis and is divided into two parts by the River Magog, 
 which descends by a succession of falls in a considerable 
 body of water, offering great facilities for manufactories. 
 Many such establishments already exist ; but the property 
 in the falls being in the hands of the British American 
 Land Company, who will only lease the water power for 
 a term of years, of «jourse enterprise is checked, and the 
 town of Sherbrooke is greatly injured by this wretched poli- 
 cy. It is in spite of this great discouragement that the town 
 increases as it does. As it is there are iron-foundries, saw 
 and grist mills, with pail, woolen, and other factories on 
 the river. There is also a Court-House, Jail, Episcopa- 
 lian, Independent, and Catholic Churches, with a well con- 
 ducted Academy. 
 
 The town is built upon a hill, and from the high ground 
 the view up and down the valley of the St. Francis is 
 exceedingly fine, for, though the land in the immediate 
 vicinity is rough and broken, the country around is rich 
 and the soil generally excellent. From this place a good 
 road now leads to Lake Memphramagog, distant fourteen 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 143 
 
 miles. A trip to this lake is one every way interesting, 
 the scenery being equals and by many thought grander, 
 than that of Lake George. The fishing is also excellent, 
 particularly in the month of Miiy, when an excellent fish, 
 called the lake trouts is taken, weighing from ten to twen- 
 ty-five pounds weight. A steamboat plies all summer for 
 tourists. And though the road spoken of is newly opened, 
 a journey to see the scenery of Memphrarnagog, and 
 ascend the mountain called the Owl’s Head, is becoming 
 every day more and more a favorite. 
 
 Leaving Sherbrooke by Railroad, you arrive at Lennox- 
 ville in Ascot, distant three miles south of Sherbrooke, a 
 beautifully situated village in the valley of the Massa- 
 wippi, at its junction with the St. Francis. In this 
 delightful village is situated Bishop’s College and the 
 Grammar School in connection with it. These institut- 
 ions are admirably managed, the terms of tuition and 
 board are moderate, and the situation is both beau- 
 tiful and healthful. A depot is established here for the 
 convenience of the large and thriving settlements to the 
 eastward. From this point, an excellent carriage road 
 jeads in an easterly direction through the fine Township of 
 Baton, settled now some thirty years, and thence to the 
 new settlements of the British American Land Company 
 in Bury and Lingwick. Eaton possesses two pretty 
 villages, having each a comfortable country inn, and dis- 
 tant twelve miles from Lennoxville, with which they have 
 daily communication by stage, affording one of the 
 pleasantest drives in the Eastern Townships. A stage 
 
144 ^ 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 communication is also had thence through Bury to Ling- 
 wick, a distance of twenty-two miles beyond which ex- 
 tend the vast territory of iinconceded lands of the Crown, 
 including the Lakes St. Francis and Megantic Mountain 
 whose summit is supposed to be the highest point in the 
 Townships. Excellent trout and other fine fish are 
 caught in almost all the streams and lakes, which every 
 where abound in this wild region. This is now also 
 one of the few districts in which the Moose Deer is to be 
 found in any considerable numbers. Very many of these, 
 the largest and noblest of Canada’s wild animals, are 
 taken both in winter and summer, and although the man- 
 ner of hunting them at the different seasons varies very 
 materially, it affords at all times animating and exciting 
 sport. 
 
 Returning to Lennoxville, the Railroad leaves the 
 valley of the St. Francis, proceeding up that of the 
 beautiful Massawippi, and at the distance of five miles 
 enters the valley of the Coaticooke, at the northerly limit 
 of the Township of Compton ; and thence up the western 
 slope of this valley through the centre of the last named 
 H'ownship, and near the easterly line of Barnston, to the 
 Province Line, a distance of twenty-eight miles from 
 Lennoxville. 
 
 Jn Compton, the Railroad passes near the village of 
 Waterville in the north part of the Township, and about 
 two miles west of the centre — the former is a thriving 
 place, having a foundry, grist and saw mills. The other 
 is an older place, and being in the centre of the Township, 
 
I 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 145 
 
 near the summit between the Coaticooke anJ Moe’s 
 River Vallies, commands a beautiful and varied prospect. 
 This Township is watered by the Coaticooke and Moe’s 
 Rivers, which have a parallel course through it of about 
 three miles apart, affording numerous mill sites in their 
 course. The country between these rivers, is moderately 
 elevated, chiefly settled and well cultivated. The valley 
 of the Coaticooke is broad and beautiful, affording a wide 
 extent of alluvial meadow grounds. Two excellent car- 
 riage roads pass from north to south through the Town- 
 ship, one of which is continued through Barford and: 
 Hereford to the Province Line, at the head of the Con- 
 necticut. The drives in this Township afford a great 
 variety of fine scenery and are truly delightful. '’The 
 traveller desirous of enjoying these, or visiting the Town- 
 ships of Halley and Stanstead, should leave the cars at 
 the Compton depot. From the latter plate, continuing 
 by rail, at the distance of about six miles, he reaches the 
 north east part of Barnston. There is here an excellent 
 water power, with grLt and saw mills and a well kept 
 country inn. A good carriage road leads from this 
 village into the heart of the Township, to another prettv 
 village. Barnston is one of the best settled of the 
 Townships, with excellent roads traversing it in every 
 direction. Having now reached the Province Line the 
 tourist must retrace his steps to the Compton depot’ for 
 the purpose of reaching Stanstead and the Magoo- Lake. 
 Leaving this, he first reaches Charleston Village In Hat- 
 ley, distant live miles, passing through a beautiful country, 
 
 £ 
 
14.6 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 from some elevated points of which he will be constrained 
 to pause and admire the rich scene spread out before 
 him, which includes the bold Highlands or the west shore 
 of the beautiful Massawippi Lake, the north end of the 
 Green Mountain range on the west shore of the iVkgog 
 Lake, some twenty-five miles distant, while the pictur- 
 esque and broken outline of the Orford and Megantic 
 mountains arc seen in the far distance. 
 
 From Charleston Village, a road of fourteen miles leads 
 through!part of Barnston direct to Stanstead Plain, within 
 a miirof the Province Line, passing through a delightful 
 country, affording fine views of the Massawippi Lake and 
 adjacent country. 
 
 The Township of Stanstead was one of the earliest 
 settled in the country, and is the most populous and 
 wealthy ; excellent roads thread it in every direction, along 
 which are every where found schools, churches, mills, and 
 well stocked and cultivated farms. It also possesses 
 three very considerable villages, that at the Plain being the 
 largest ; the next at Rock Island, on the Province Line, 
 possesses an excellent water power and is a place of note 
 for its commerce and manufactures ; the last, Georgeville, 
 situated on the shore of the Magog Lake, and embosomed 
 in hills, is one of the prettiest imaginable, when viewed from 
 the Lake. It is now the general resting place of the 
 throng of travellers, who annually visit the Lake and 
 neighbourhood, which may justly be termed the Switzer- 
 land of Canada. This Lake is from twenty-five to thirty 
 miles in length, by a width of two, and runs several miles 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 147 
 
 into the adjoining State of Vermont. A steamboat, 
 “ T. he Mountain Maid ”, has been plarced on its waters, 
 running daily between Newport at its head in Vermont, 
 and Magog at its outlet. No tourist should omit taking a 
 trip on this Lake, nor making the ascent of the Owl’s 
 Head, a mountain five thousand feet hio^h, on its 
 western shore, at the base of which be will find comforta- 
 ble accommodation at the Mountain House Hotel. From 
 Georgeville there is a steam-ferry which crosses to Bolton 
 shore, from which conveyance may be had by a tri-weeklv 
 line of stages through Bolton, Brome, Dunham and Stan- 
 bridge to St. John’s, about sixty miles. The places last 
 named, are fine Townships containing several villages, and 
 a large agricultural population. 
 
 Having thus in a cursory and imperfect mianner intro- 
 duced the traveller into the most settled and best 
 cultivated of the P]astern Townships, (a great portion be- 
 sides being still covered with the primeval forest), a few 
 observations upon the character and capabilities of the 
 country generally, may not be deemed irrelevant. The 
 climate is similar to that of Montreal, and considerably 
 milder than that of Quebec. It is eminently salubrious 
 and entirely free from ague, intermittent fever, and other 
 epidemics which prevail in some parts of Western Cana- 
 da, and the adjoining States ; and it should be mentioned, 
 as evidence of the purity of the air, that while the Asiatic 
 Cholera has repeatedly raged with extreme virulence in all 
 the surrounding countries, not a single case has occurred 
 in the Eastern Townships. 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 148 
 
 The general appearance of the face of the country is 
 most beautifully picturesque ; the land rises in gentle 
 swells for miles together, the uncleared portions clothed 
 with maple, beech, and birch, and other hard woods, while 
 the vallies are generally timbered with bard wood and 
 evergreens mixed, or with evergreens alone. In e\ery 
 direction are found plentiful rivulets of the purest and 
 clearest water, which, uniting in the course of a few miles, 
 form large brooks, and thus afford every convenience for 
 the erection of mills, &c., and also afford the angler 
 abundance of sport. Interpersed through most of the 
 Townships are found beautiful Lakes, varying from one 
 mile to thirty, and filled in most cases with delicious fish. 
 
 The general soil of the uplands in the Townships is a 
 light loam, easily worked^ and yielding good returns for 
 the labour of the farmer ; while in the lowlands, and along 
 the shores of the stream are extensive alluvions, which, 
 when cleared, are chiefly used as meadow land, and produce 
 extraordinary large crops of bay. 
 
 The whole country is particularly favorable for grazing, 
 and the beef and mutton fed on the pastures of the 1 own- 
 ships are fully equal to any in Canada. 
 
 Leaving the Boundary Line, we pass up the Coaticooke 
 Biver through the town of Norton to the Norton Pond, 
 which lies partly in Norton and partly in Warren’s Gore. 
 Thence crossing the summit between the waters which 
 flow northerly directly into Canada, and those which rifn 
 westerly into Memphramagog Lake, we pass by Pher- 
 ing. River, through a corner of Morgan- Township into 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 149 
 
 Wenlockj to Island Pond lying in Wenlock and Brighton. 
 Ihls has been selected for the point of junction of Ihe 
 Atlantic and St. Lawrence hnd the St. Lawrence and 
 Atlantic Bailways. The route from the Boundary to 
 within a few miles of this point is through the forest, and 
 the beauty of Island Pond and the adjacent section of 
 country seems still more striking from the contrast which is 
 presented. The Pond is about two miles in length and 
 three quarters of a mile in breadth, bordered by farms 
 and beautiful natural scenery. No point could have been 
 chosen for this junction possessing greater advantages 
 than this. The depot grounds are spacious, and buildings 
 commodious, and the lands in the vicinity are susceptible 
 of 9 high degree of cultivation. This^must become a 
 favorite resort’ of pleasure-seekers, as the Pond is amply 
 stocked with trout and pickerel, which here seem to have 
 laid aside their old family feuds, and to have increased and 
 multiplied time out of mind. The forest in the vicinity 
 abounds in game, worthy the attention of sportsmen, and 
 it will probably be many years before the shriek of the all 
 conquering locomotive will have entirely driven the moose, 
 the bear, and the deer, into retreats still more secure. 
 Leaving Island Pond, we'pass along Spectacle Pond, so 
 called from its supposed resemblance to a pair of specta- 
 cles, and thence passing by level or gently descending 
 grades through Brighton, Brunswick and Bloomfield, 
 a distance of fourteen-and-a-half miles, we reach the Con- 
 necticut River, the boundary between the States of New 
 Hampshire and Vermont. This portion of the route is 
 
],-)Q the CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 also through a continuous forest, though a passable carri- 
 age road runs through Connecticut to a poml some miles 
 above Island Pond on the Phering River, and also down 
 the Clyde (which rises in Island Pond) to Derby and tte 
 west. Soon after leaving Spectacle Pond, the line 
 crosses the summit between the waters flowing into the St. 
 Lawrence, and those which seek the Atlantic by the wap 
 of the Connecticut River. The M est branch of tlie 
 Nulhegan has its source just beyond this summit, and the 
 line follows the stream to its embouehement into the Con- 
 necticut. At this point, there is an extensive water pow- 
 er judiciously improved. A mile below is a large mineral 
 spring strongly impregnated with sulphur and iron. 
 Crossing the Connecticut River by a substantial bridge of 
 two spans of one hundred and sixty feet each and tliirtj 
 feet high, we reach the broad fertile meadows of Stratford. 
 The road now passes along the bank of the river for ten 
 miles, being, for the greater part of the distance, out of 
 sight of the comfortable farm-houses which stand on the 
 hi° h table at the foot of the mountain range which skirts 
 the valley. The scenery here is beautiful, quiet and pas- 
 toral in its character, and ever varying. Stratford Hollow 
 is seven miles below the Connecticut Riidge. 1 he Bog 
 Brook flows through the village, affording sufScient water 
 power for the wants of the people la the vicinity. Fol- 
 lowing the river to a distance of three-and-a-half miles 
 below this point, the line passes the ridge between 
 the valleys of the Connecticut and Upper Ammonoosuc 
 River through very heavy cutting. We are now in the 
 
TKE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 151 
 
 town of ^Northumberland, and entering the winding and 
 narrow but picturesque and beautiful valley of the Ammon- 
 oosuc. The Northumberland station is two miles from the 
 Connecticut River, and one hundred and twenty-two 
 from Portland. There is an excellent hotel close at 
 hand, where the comfort of the sojourner is the first ob- 
 ject of the enterprising proprietor. This is a very impor- 
 tant station, as the highly cultivated farms lying between 
 Northumberland and Lancaster, on both sides of the 
 Connecticut River, send here, of their abundance, things 
 new and old for the Portland market. Lancaster, the 
 shiretown of Coos county, lies on the Connecticut ten miles 
 below the station. It is a beautiful and flourishing village, 
 where almost every trade is represented, and whose busi- 
 ness with Portland contributes largely to the support of the 
 road. Northumberland village in New Hampshire, and 
 Guildhall in Vermont, delightfully situated opposite each 
 other on Falls of the Connecticut, are three miles be- 
 low the depot. Leaving Northumberland, we cross the 
 Ammonoosuc by a bridge of one hundred and twenty feet 
 span and thirty feet high, and thence the line follows the 
 river through Stark, Hummer, and Milan, to its head 
 waters, Ammonoosuc Pond, a distance of tw^enty-three 
 uiiles, — now running close to the river, the base of 
 the embankment jvashed by its waters, — now leaving it to 
 find its way across the spurs of the hills by a route less cir- 
 cuitous than that of the stream. Just before reachino* the 
 
 o 
 
 Pond, the river is crossed by a bridge forty feet 
 high. This portion of the route affords many fine views 
 of the famous Stratford Peaks. 
 
152 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 AVe now come to tbe summit between the Connecticut 
 and the Androscoggin waters, which is passed with a 
 grade of sixteen ieet to the mile, and soon cross Dead 
 River which we follow to Berlin Falls, where it empties 
 into the Androscoggin. The Line itself, for most of the 
 distance between Northumberland and Berlin Falls is 
 through the forest, but there are farms all the way within 
 a short distance of the Railway, and carriage roads 
 running parallel with its course. The only station in this 
 distance is at West Milan, which also accommodates 
 Dummer Bridge, a little hamlet a mile below the station. 
 
 Berlin Falls village is at the head of Dead Fviver, just 
 at the top of the Falls. Situated in the midst of the 
 wildest scenery, offering the greatest inducements to 
 sportsmen and lovers of the beautiful, and possessing a 
 comfortable and convenient hotel, it has already become 
 a favorite place of resort. Great quantities of lumber for 
 the Portland market is annually manufactured at this point, 
 and at the mills on the Androscoggin, a short distance 
 above. 
 
 Leaving Berlin Falls, the line descends five miles by 
 a gradient of forty-five feet per mile to the valley of 
 Moose River, which empties into the Androscoggin from 
 the South West. This portion of the route affords several 
 magnificent views of the principal peaks of the White 
 Mountains. Crossing Moose River, near the mouth of 
 which is a large hotel, we reach the W hite Mountain 
 station house in Gorham, delightfully situated on the 
 delta, between the Androscoggin and Peabody River. 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 153 
 
 Gorham station house is five miles from Shelburne, 
 ninety-one from Portland, and two hundred and five from 
 Boston. Before reaching it, the track crosses Peabody 
 Fviver — runs along the valley of the Androscoggin and 
 Peabody Ptivers — and gives a good view of many small 
 hill tops. 
 
 The hotel itself is the chief object of interest here, and 
 one which is like to attract the more immediate attention 
 of the traveller. It is in full view on the right hand side, 
 and very unlikely to be mistaken or overlooked. This 
 house is a three story edifice, erected by the Atlantic and 
 St. Lawrence Railroad Company. It stands in the valley 
 of the Androscoggin and Peabody Rivers — in a clearing 
 of between two and three hundred acres. The scenery 
 on all sides is closed up by mountains. Those in front are 
 un-naraed : the long ridge in its rear is known as Mt. 
 Hayes. The building is one hundred feet front and fifty 
 feet wide, with an ell of equal height one hundred feet long. 
 Piazzas embrace three sides of it. It has a dining room, 
 eighty-five feet long by thirty feet broad — drawingrooms, 
 parlors, reading and smoking room, bathing rooms, Ac. — 
 in all one hundred and sixty-five rooms and is capable of 
 accommodating two hundred and fifty guests. The sleep- 
 ing rooms are carpeted and furnished, provided with stoves 
 and ventilators. It is a most thoroughly built edifice and 
 admirably adapted to the purpose for which it was built 
 and is used. The White Mountains are not visible from 
 the hotel, although it is but ten miles distant from the 
 summit of Mount Washington. Five minutes walk, 
 
154 * 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST . 
 
 lioweveTj in almost any diroction bring them into view. In 
 order to visit them, a ride becomes necessary to Bellows’ 
 Farm : and a most interesting ride it is. The distance is 
 seven miles — over a good and hard road in the valley of 
 Peabody River. Carriages leave the Gorham House 
 daily lor this place, and private carriages, which are 
 preferable, can be obtained. Immediately after crossing 
 the river from the Hotel, the road plunges into the shadow 
 of hill-tops that block out all objects beyond them. Only 
 at intervals, for the first two miles, can any sight be 
 obtained of the loftier peaks that are in advance. But the 
 drive is magnificent even here. Old trees skirt the road- 
 side and hang over it— partially concealing, partially 
 revealing the beautiful waters of the river that runs side 
 by side with the road. About half way between the 
 hotel and Bellows’ Farm is a deserted house in the midst 
 of a clearing— where, in past time, a man, more bold than 
 wise, tried to support himself, and failed. There is also a 
 venerable saw-mill near by : but the dam has been swept 
 away, and the saw hangs idly in its frame. Aside from 
 these, and an occasional rabbit that may hop across the 
 road, or partridge flying from intrusion, there are no signs 
 of life, present or past, on the road we travel. 
 
 The Glen House at Bellows’ Fann stands on a plain of 
 about one hundred acres in the valley of Peabody River. 
 The mountains are directly in front, nothing intervening 
 to obscure, in-any’^ degree, their giant forms. On the ex- 
 treme left is Mount Washington. On both wings ot the 
 loftier summits are the tops of innumerable lesser elevat- 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 lf)5 
 
 tions, so confused and crowded together as to render their 
 description impossible. Behind the house is a long, irre- 
 gular rise, called Carter Mountain.” There is not, pro- 
 bably, any spot, on either the eastern or western sides, 
 where a finer view is obtained of the great peaks than from 
 here : and it must, from this circumstance alone, soon be- 
 come a very important spot for mountain travel. 
 
 The White Mountains. 
 
 Those who are desirous of ascending the Mountains, 
 having driven to the Glen House, will there find a very 
 choice selection of ponies and saddle-horses ready for the 
 expedition and experienced guides to accompany them. 
 
 For a description of the ascent, we avail ourselves 
 of the lively pen of the gentleman to whom we are indebted 
 for a description of the Saguenay. 
 
 After breakfast, the bracing morning air putting us 
 in high spirits, the party who have made up their minds 
 to ascend the mountain, are gathered in groups around the 
 piazzas, in close consultation. Six horses, with side saddles, 
 for the ladies are led forth ; and twelve, with high peaked 
 saddles, for the gentlemen, besides a few choice chargers, 
 which the worthy landlord reserves for the heavy vveights. 
 Most of the horses are French Canadian ponies, sure foot- 
 ed, enduring litlle animals, of fourteen hands, which make 
 excellent palfreys for scrambling among the rocks. From 
 time to time the party cast glances at the mountain which 
 towers overhead for, from this point, you can see the 
 extreme summit, and begin to have some idea of the dif- 
 
156 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST, 
 
 ficulties about to be encountered. The hearts of the 
 ladies do not fail, and of course the gentlemen must follow. 
 Draped in long habits and hoods, armed with strong leather 
 gauntlets, reaching to the elbow, and riding whips, they 
 appear, girt for the feat, and mount their horses boldly. 
 
 It is only poor mamma whose heart fails her, who has 
 no longer any charge of her daughter, who has committed 
 her, for the first time, to push her way through the tangled 
 woods and slippery paths of this rugged world. She is 
 determined, however, to do her duty to the last, as far as 
 she can do it, and mounting to the upper piazza, and 
 applying herself to the telescope, follows with anxious eye 
 the merry party as they dash down the sloping lawn 
 towards the river, cross the rustic bridge, enter the shady 
 wood, and disappear from view. 
 
 « She pauses for a little, and in her impatience turns her 
 telescope towards a precipitous cream coloured ledge, 
 which she knows the party must climb. It is a short spur 
 of the mountain, composed of huge masses of felspar. 
 At its base, a silvery wood of leafless trees, a patch of 
 stunted birch, partially burned, the trunks and branches 
 blanched with winter frosts and summer suns, and much 
 of the shining bark still remaining, produces a most singu- 
 lar effect. Be not impatient, my dear madam. It will 
 only take the party two hours to arrive at this point. The 
 wood through which they are passing is shady and roman- 
 tic, no doubt. Rocks of granite, newly rent asunder, with 
 rich veins of mica, lie scattered all around. Mossy trunks 
 of trees may lie across the path, over which their willing 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 157 
 
 little steeds carry them with a bound. Ivefrcshing* rills of 
 w'ater trickle down the rocks. The horses wind, in sinsfle 
 file, around the spiral path, often escarped deeply, into the 
 steep sides of the mountain, for narrow is the road, and 
 sometimes marshy, the trees inclining overhead. Silently, 
 and slowly, they wend their way, all fully occupied in 
 guiding their horses through the crooked path. No clatter 
 of hoofs is heard, only the rustling of withered leaves. 
 No voice except an exclamation when some fair rider has 
 performed a daring feat. For who can willingly talk when 
 obliged to do so at the pitch of his voice ? Be not 
 uneasy, my dear madam, you see all is going well. Only 
 one thing can happen in these little woodland journeys, 
 and that is not very serious. A horse, in struggling 
 through the swampy ground, may burst his saddle girth. 
 In such a case a lady may, most assuredly, fall into the 
 mud. But as there is usually a gentleman riding in rear, 
 he, rather than such a mishap should occur, jumps o(f his 
 horse, and dashing into the swamp, receives the lady in 
 his arms, just as she is on the point of touching the ground, 
 lie gently bears her to a mossy bank, and the horse is led 
 out to firm ground, the saddle more securely adjusted, and 
 the rider mounts again nothing daunted. And now I may 
 as well describe the most approved method of mounting on 
 horseback. 
 
 Ihe lady, without hesitation, having made up her mind 
 to it, places her left foot, the smaller and bien chaussee 
 the better, in the right hand of her squire, he stands at the 
 horse’s head, his left hand holding the reins. The lady. 
 
158 
 
 the CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 then, her left hand on his shoulder, her right on the saddle, 
 is poised in the air like a bird, and finds herself, without 
 exactly knowing how, securely seated in her saddle. This, 
 although a long operation in describing, is really the work 
 of a moment ; and is tne safest and most effectual way of 
 mounting on horseback, for the horse is kept steady, and 
 cannot advance until the rider is securely seated. 
 
 “ And now, if you apply yourself again to the telescope, 
 you will see the whole cavalcade emerging from the lea y 
 
 greenwood, and entering the leafless sill erj wood. Th 
 
 horses, no longer in single file, have room to canter m 
 pairs. And now, among the foremost, you may observe 
 a dappled gray, draggled with mud, on which is a lady 
 gaily chatting to a cavalier. That must be your daughter. 
 Her horse, it is, who has been in the mire ; and that is the 
 very gentleman who kindly bore her to the mossy bank: 
 you must return him thanks for his great attention. 
 
 « Poor mamma drops her telescope, a tear of reproach 
 glistens in her eye ; I have mistaken the phial, and been 
 pouring the waters of bitterness into the wounded spirit, 
 instead of the balm of consolation. For the first time she 
 perceives the maternal sceptre gliding from her gentle 
 hand, and it is hard to bear. And now, finding ourselves 
 very much out of place in this situation on the upper piaz- 
 za, let us fly across and see how the parly are occupied 
 
 at the foot of the precipice. 
 
 “ The gentlemen have alighted to breathe their horses. 
 They have loosened their saddle girths ; are fumbling with 
 their cigar cases ; and stroll about, viewing, with wonder, 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 159 
 
 the singular leafless silvery wood^ which covers the plateau 
 on which they stand. An inaccessible gulf is on one side y 
 an apparently insurmountable precipice on the other. 
 W here is the path? While ruminating and pufllng, we 
 are surprized to see the ladies charge at the precipice as 
 if riding a steeple chase. The mountain air has put them 
 in high spirits, and they seem to fear no danger. The 
 horses scale the cliff as if climbing up a zigzag flight of 
 stairs. You see them pass overhead, bearing their light 
 burthens, and, as they successively reach the summit, their 
 outline appears against the sky. Your horses, gentlemen, 
 cannot carry you up tliis ledge of rock. You must allow 
 them to climb with empty saddles. You must follow on- 
 foot, as best you can ; the heavy men stopping frequently 
 to get breath, as they toil laboriously up the long ascent, 
 pretending that they merely loiter to enjoy the view. 
 
 At last, arrived at the top of the ledge, above the^ 
 region of trees and grass, there being nothing but masses 
 of shivered rocks, you fancy yourself near the summit. 
 But all high mountains are deceptive in this respect, for, as 
 you pass on, crest after crest appears to view, and you 
 think the labour of guiding your horse interminable. The 
 animal begins to utter hollow groans, as only the unwilling 
 horse can do, when urged to jog along where footing is 
 hard to find. At last, however, you see the very last 
 cone, rough with fragments of huge rocks ; either, they 
 have been showered down from heaven, or the outer crust 
 of the mountain is shivered to shreds by the action of the 
 frost. No water-worn boulders are here, all looks fresh, 
 
jgQ the CANADIAN TOUBIST. 
 
 with ragged edges, newly broken. And here let ns pause 
 a while to learn from the guide a melancholy ta e. 
 
 “ There is a rude house, built of rock, on t le summi 
 of the mountain. I had. to remain for shelter al mght, 
 the evening being too tempestuous and cloudy to descend. 
 Nevt morning we went out at day break to see what 
 damage the storm had done. We were astonished to see 
 a man struggling towards us, frantic with despair He 
 could not speak, he could hardly walk, beniimbe wi i co 
 and ffrief. He led us a little way down the hill, where 
 you see that cairn of stones. Here, we found, as wit in 
 a tomb, two young girls lying. One, quite col and dead 
 and stiff, the other nearly so. It appears, that ie evenin^ 
 before, a gentleman and two ladies had left the g en ouse 
 after dinner, intending to walk to the top of the mountain, 
 to remain all night, for the purpose qf seeing the rising 
 sun,-too great an undertaking at any time, but especially 
 so without a guide, and night approaching. Enthusiasm 
 oave them strength, and enabled them to climb up the 
 
 •ledo-c That was too much for one, the youngest. Her 
 strength began to fail. It was too late to retrace their 
 steps. They cannot stop here, they must procee . 
 Still two miles of rugged ascent. Storm an c ou s 
 came on ; darkness, and driving sleet. The Jtack no 
 lono-er seen. Drenched to the skin, they toiled their 
 weary way in an exhausted state over a trackless waste 
 of loose rocks. How they dragged themselves along, 
 sinking with weakness 1 How they reached within a shor 
 distance of the top ; where relief and shelter might have 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 161 
 
 been found, and without knowing that help was so near 1 
 How they lay down in despair under this heap of stones, 
 and how they passed the night? it is not to be told. Mis- 
 ery and fear had deprived them of their senses. We may 
 throw a veil over it. A ragged shoe was found, a glove, 
 a torn handkerchief covered with blood, wound round a 
 wounded foot 5 dumb witnesses of the cruel agony of that 
 night, as well to the victim, as to the survivors. 
 
 At length we arrive at the very summit, and seat 
 ourselves in a little amphitheatre of rude pillars. Having 
 ascended from the east, we wish to have a view towards 
 the west. We therefore cast our eyes into the adjacent 
 valley. Far below us, stretches a long spur of the moun- 
 tain, running about eight miles towards the west, with a 
 height offour thousand feet,andadeep valley on eitherside. 
 And now we hear a solemn, psalmlike dirge ; the hum of 
 many voices, rising from beneath. It reminds us of the 
 ancient Covenanters performing their worship in the depth 
 of the hills, far out of the reach of their persecutors. The 
 music is slow and solemn, but it is not the chant of the 
 Covenanter, it is an anthem of the English Church com- 
 mencing — 
 
 0 ! all ye works of the Lord 
 Bless ye the Lord 
 
 Praise and magnify his name for ever. 
 
 0 ! ye mountains and hills 
 Bless ye the Lord 
 
 Praise and magnify his name for ever. 
 
 Most appropriate and touching in such a scene. And 
 
162 
 
 THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 now the Kent bugle is distinctly heard, leading the choir of 
 well toned voices, for all join in the simple and sublime 
 chaunt. 
 
 We now perceive, winding around a bare promontory, 
 and creeping along the crest of a cliff, a line of thirty 
 horses, which, at this immense distance, appear like insects 
 on a mole-hill, — near and more near they approach, one by 
 one, like pilgrims, threading their way ; sometimes riding 
 on the summit of the hills ; sometimes creeping along the 
 face of the precipice. At length they arrive at a lonely 
 tarn, called the lake of the cloud, over which hangs a 
 perpetual mist. Here they halt a while, walking their 
 horses into the water to quench their thirst and refresli 
 their limbs, for now they are near to the crest of mountain, 
 at which they are preparing to make a vigorous dash. 
 This part of the ascent is remarkably steep and rugged, 
 much more so than the route by which we ascended, and 
 we lose sight of the party altogether, until their horses are 
 again seen, after the space of an hour, tottering along, one 
 after another, on the extreme summit. And now, a party 
 of some forty, all strangers to each other, have met 
 together, to dine on the top of the mountain. 
 
 We are hungry enough, and may therefore enter the 
 hotel. But where is it? We see nothing like a house ; 
 can it be this heap of stones, piled rudely together, and 
 which I really had taken for the extreme mountain top 1 
 It must be so, for here is a door ; and you observe that 
 the roof, and in fact the whole house, is moored across and 
 across with heavy chains, fastened to iron rings deeply 
 
THE CANADIA^N TOURIST. 
 
 163 
 
 imbedded in solid rock. You enter, and the inside is in 
 keeping with what you have already seen. Bare walls of 
 rough granite, the interstices filled with smaller stones, and 
 the crevices of these again filled with gravel and moss, for 
 where can clay or earth be found here for such a purpose. 
 
 All this is very characteristic, very appropriate, and in 
 very good taste ; and we should be sorry to see any alter- 
 ation made, further, than to enlarge the accommodation if 
 necessary. It is like the Ark, stranded on the top of 
 Mount Ararat. The windows look like portholes, and 
 through them you have a peep at the surrounding country, 
 like to a picture set in a rough frame. If further orna- 
 ment is required, why not have a few rough granite pilas- 
 ters, rich and sparkling with brilliant mica, ornamented 
 lustrous minerals, and curious shells, and the mosses which 
 grow so profusely in the adjoining valleys. And should 
 you require further ornament, why not have horns of 
 the moose, the red-deer, the skins of bears, otters, and 
 wolves, and other trophies of the chase, which tell the his- 
 tory of the surrounding neighbourhood] But, to hear of 
 a wooden hotel, preparing to be erected, with gay piazzas, 
 or verandas supported on Ionic pillars, all painted white, 
 and with green Venetian blinds; bowling alleys, and 
 billiard rooms; all very suitable and picturesque in the 
 valley, but most inappropriate here. We trust the time 
 IS distant when such innovations may be projected, and if 
 attempted, that the tempests and lightning, which reign 
 here in triumph, may hurl them from their foundation, as 
 the walls of Jerusalem were overturned by eartliquakes. 
 
164 
 
 the CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 And now, having enjoyed an exd^llent dinner, we 
 prepare for our descent, and I arn greatly ternpteci to join 
 that party with the Kent bugle, who turn to the west. 
 There is a nice hotel there, full of good company, and it 
 is only ten miles distant. And here we can further explore 
 the rough country, and admire the variety of hill and 
 valley. 
 
 We commence, with great caution, the descent from 
 the summit, allowing the horses to find their own way 
 down the headlong path. We have a pleasant ride 
 along the crest ot the mountain spur, where we can 
 occasionally canter, the ground being comparatively 
 smooth, and beyond the range of wood or tangled shrubs. 
 We sometimes start a flock of grey plover, sometimes meet 
 a solitary bee, a butterfly, a few stalks of thin grass, and 
 the slender harebell, hanging on its wiry stalks, and on our 
 path we meet with nothing else. To be sure, if we look 
 below into the deep valleys, from the face of the precipice 
 along which we are creeping, we see them rich with 
 vegetation, thick with wood, which has not yet felt the 
 stroke of the axe, for so far inaccessible to the industry 
 of man. Nothing but wild animals inhabit here, the bear, 
 the wolf, and the panther. No cottage, nor log-hut, nor 
 domestic animal is seen (jn any side, nor hum of patient 
 industry. At last we arrive at the extremity, where the 
 mountain ends in a peak jutting abruptly into the plain be- 
 low. Our guide takes his horn and plays merrily the 
 Huntsman’s Chorus.” We have come again on the region 
 of woods ; we plunge into them and descend by a steep 
 arduous path, for a distance of three miles. 
 
THE CANADIAN TOURIST. 
 
 165 
 
 ’ The wood meeting overhead, we see nothing but our 
 own cavalcade, and at last, suddenly, and unexpectedly, 
 debouche into a lovely lawn, on the opposite side of which 
 appears a handsome and cheerful looking hotel, the 
 balcony filled with company, looking out curiously for our 
 party, who straggling along", one by one, seem completely 
 worn out with the day’s exploit, and ready for supper and 
 a sound sleep.” 
 
 And now, gentle reader, our wanderings together are 
 closed. Since we doffed our cap to you at Niagara, and 
 bade you welcome to Canada, we have shown you much of 
 our fair land — we have travelled by the steam-horse and 
 the steam-ship, the proud trophies of modern science, and 
 we have not feared to invite you to trust yourselves with 
 the red man in his frail canoe. We have seen the cities 
 and the wigwams, the past and the present of the land. 
 We have seen the mighty St. Lawrence from her prodi- 
 gious birth amid the thunders of Niagara, till lost in the 
 still mightier ocean. We have seen much that is lovely, 
 much that is wild, we have seen nature in all her moods, 
 and we trust that our journey has neither been devoid of 
 pleasure or profit. Here, at the foot of the greatest moun- 
 tains of North America, we wish you a kind farewell. 
 
r 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 'CANADIAN CENSUS. 
 
 By last Census, taken in the beginning of 1852, the 
 population of United Canada was shown to be 1,84.2,265, 
 — to which number it had risen from 50 persons in 1622 
 —14 years after the establishment of Champlain’s colony 
 at Quebec, and 87, after the discovery of the country by 
 Cartier. 
 
 The following table exhibits the rate of increase from 
 1676; 
 
168 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Lower Canada. 
 
 
 Upper Canada 
 
 
 1676, 
 
 8,415 
 
 1825, 
 
 423,650 
 
 1770, 
 
 about 200 
 
 1834, 
 
 320,693 
 
 1688, 
 
 11,249 
 
 1827, 
 
 471,876 
 
 1791, 
 
 less than 
 
 1836, 
 
 372,502 
 
 1700, 
 
 15,000 
 
 1831, 
 
 511,922 
 
 
 50,000 
 
 1839, 
 
 407,565 
 
 1706, 
 
 20,000 
 
 1844, 
 
 690,782 
 
 1811, 
 
 77,000 
 
 1841, 
 
 465,357 
 
 1714, 
 
 26,904 
 
 1847, 
 
 714,382 
 
 1824, 
 
 151,097 
 
 1842, 
 
 486,055 
 
 1750, 
 
 65,000 
 
 1848, 
 
 768,334 
 
 1825, 
 
 158,027 
 
 1848, 
 
 723,292 
 
 1784, 
 
 113,000 
 
 1851, 
 
 890,261 
 
 1830, 
 
 210,437 
 
 1851, 
 
 952,004 
 
 
 
 
 
 1832, 
 
 261,060 
 
 
 
 It would thus appear that Canada nearly doubled her 
 population in the twenty-four years between 1676 and 
 1700 ; that on the expiry of the next filty years her popu- 
 lation was four and one-third times what it had been at 
 their commencement ; and that in 1851 it was three and 
 one-sixth times its amount in 1825 — twenty-six years 
 before — and something more than twenty-eight times its 
 number in 1750 — 101 years previous. 
 
 The inhabitants of Canada at the time of the conquest 
 in 1759, exclusive of the native Indians, were entirely 
 French, and are estimated by Mr. M'CullccIi^ in his 
 Gazetteer^ as amounting to about 70,000. By 1831 their 
 descendants numbered upwards of 400,000 — an increase 
 which he pronounces as probably the most rapid of any on 
 record from births alone. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 169 
 
 ‘^The Province of Quebec contained,” says SeamaUi 
 in his Progress of Nations,’^ (New York, 1853 — p. 
 595,) — ^Mn 1783, by enumeration, 113,000 inhabitants, 
 French and English, exclusive of about 10,000 or 12,000 
 loyalist refugees from the United States, who went to the 
 Province during the war of the American Revolution. 
 Call the population in 1783, 125,000; of these probably 
 110,000 were of French descent, and but 15,000 of Eng- 
 lish, Scotch, and Irish descent. According to this calcu- 
 lation, the French population increased the first ten years 
 after the conquest, twenty per cent., to 84,000 ; twenty 
 per cent, the next ten years, 101,000 ; and at the same 
 rate the last four years to 110,000, in the year 1783. 
 The French population of Canada must have increased 
 nearly twenty percent, in seven years, amounting in 1790 
 to 130,000, and at the rate of thirty per cent, each ten 
 years from that time up to the year 1840 ; amounlintr in 
 1800 to 169,000; in 1810 to 220,000; in 1820 to 
 286,000 ; in 1830 to 370,000 ; in 1840 to 481,000 ; and 
 in 1844 to 534,000, of whom 51^,000, were in Lower 
 Canada* These astonishing results were produced by 
 early marriages, and plain, frugal habits.” According to 
 the Census returns of 1851, the French population of 
 Lower Canada amounted to 669,528. 
 
 The progress of Upper Canada has, as a matter of fact, 
 been much more rapid during the earlier period of her 
 history than has been generally believed. In the table 
 given above her inhabitants are set down in the year 1791 
 — that of the division of the former Province of Quebec 
 
170 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 into the Provinces of Upper and Lower Cana^’a — as 
 being “ le«s than 50,000.” Indefinite enough this surely 
 is. There is reason to beleive that they did not then ex- 
 ceed 10,000, or at the very utmost 12,000. Mr. Lym- 
 burner,in his address before the British Parliament against 
 the Quebec Bill, states the English population of Canada 
 to amount to only about three hundred and sixty families 
 {Christie) ; w^hile Mr. Pitt defended (May 12th, 1791) 
 the proposals of the Ministry in regard to the number o( 
 members which should constitute the House of Assembly 
 for Upper Canada, by saying that “ as there were not 
 above 10,000 individuals in Upper Canada (including men, 
 women, and children), he thought sixteen, in the present 
 state of the Province, was about a reasonable proportion 
 of those w’ho were fit persons to be chosen members of 
 the House of Assembly, and could spare enough time for 
 due attendance.” The blank was, therefore, filled up with 
 the word “sixteen.” (See Gourlay^ Yol, 103.) 
 
 Ilie number set down by Mr. M’Gregor for the year 
 1800, nine years later, is only 10,000. On this point 
 the following statement, published in 1840 hy one of the 
 first men in the country, (Sir John Beverly Robinson, 
 Chief Justice of Upper Canada,) will be allowed to have 
 very great weight : “ There are people in Upper Canada 
 still living, who saw it when it contained not a cultivated 
 farm, nor any white inhabitants, but a few fur-traders and 
 soldiers, and perhaps ten or a dozen French families on 
 the. south side of the Detroit River. I can myself 
 remember when its population was estimated at less than 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 171 
 
 o0,000 ; in 1812 it was supposed to be about 70,000 ; in 
 1822, 130,000 ; and in 1837, the census showed a popu- 
 lation of 396,000; but all the townships were not then 
 returned. The number I suppose to amount now to 
 something between 450,000, and 500,000.” (^Canada 
 and the Canada 31.) 
 
 The rate at which Canada West is growing, and has 
 been for the last twenty or thirty years, equals, if it does 
 not more than equal the growth of the very bc^st of the 
 Western States of the American Union. States just 
 beginning, or having recently begun to be occupied, are 
 unsuitable for comparison because of the rush made to 
 them from all quarters for the purpose of securing lands at 
 the Government prices. Let those whose existence has 
 been of a sufficiently long duration to afford a basis for a 
 judgment be selected, and the truth of our averment will 
 be demonstrated. It will be seen from the United 
 States’ Census, that the three States of Ohio, Michigan, 
 and Illinois, contained in 1830, 1,126,851. In 1850 they 
 contained 3,505,000, a little over three hundred and 
 twenty per cent, in twenty years. Canada West con- 
 tained in 1830, 210,473 ; in 1849 it contained 791,000., 
 which is over 375 per cent, for the same period of twenty 
 years — so that the increase in these three choice States 
 was 55 per cent, less than that of Canada West during 
 the same time.” (Census Rrpart,pp, 11, 12.) 
 
 It has been estimated that Upper Canada has increased 
 its population by 4-lOths, and Lower Canada by 4-15ths 
 since 1851. 
 
172 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 AGRICULTUPwE. 
 
 From the following Table an idea will be obtained of 
 wbat has been done up to the close of 1851 in Agriculture. 
 
 Specificaiion, 
 
 Lower Canada 
 
 Upper Canada. 
 
 Total. 
 
 Area in acres 
 
 134,393,600 
 
 20,794,825 
 
 155,188,425 
 
 No. of persons hold- 
 
 99,860 
 
 195,683 
 
 ing 
 
 95,823 
 
 No. holding 10 acres 
 
 
 9,976 
 
 
 and under 
 
 14,477 
 
 2,702 
 
 24,453 
 
 Do from 10 to 20 ac. 
 
 1,889 
 
 4,591 
 
 20 to 50 ac. 
 
 17,521 
 
 18,467 
 
 35,968 
 
 85,890 
 
 50 to 100 ac. 
 
 37,863 
 
 48,027 
 
 100 to 200 ac. 
 
 18,639 
 
 18,421 
 
 37,060 
 
 Over 200 ac. 
 
 4,591 
 
 3,080 
 
 7,671 
 
 No. of acres held. . . 
 
 [8,113,379 
 
 9,826,417 
 
 17,339,796 
 
 Acres under cultiv’n 
 
 3,605,076 
 
 3,695,763 
 
 7,300,839 
 
 Crops... 
 
 2,071,349 
 
 2,274,746 
 
 1,365,556 
 
 ' 4,346,095 
 2,869,156 
 
 Pastures 
 
 1,503,600 
 
 “ Gardens 
 
 and Or- 
 
 
 
 chards. . 
 
 30,127 
 
 55,461 
 
 85,588 
 
 « Wild . .. 
 
 4,508,303 
 
 6,130,654 
 
 £36,670,890 
 
 10,638,957 
 
 Assessed value . . . 
 
 £29,208,158 
 
 £65,879,048 
 
 Of the 18 millions of acres taken possession of, there 
 is thus considerablj over seven and a quarter millions 
 under cultivation, more than seven-eighteenths of the 
 
 whole. Divided among our population it gives four acres, 
 or thereabout, for each inhabitant. According to the 
 Census Report (24), five acres and one perch is the pro- 
 portion of cultivated land per individual in the U. States. 
 
 The value of the agricultural products of Canada and 
 the United States (the latter for 1850, and the former 
 
Upper Canada. 
 Lower Canada. 
 All Canada . . . 
 Ohio, 
 
 TotRi 
 
 Live Stock. 
 
 Total 
 
 Grain. 
 
 Total 
 Other Pro- 
 duce, 
 
 Total 
 
 ManuTnctur- 
 ed Articles. 
 
 Total. 
 
 Beef & Pork. 
 
 Grand 
 
 Total. 
 
 £ 
 
 6,133,354 
 
 4,814,183 
 
 10,947,537 
 
 12,793,587 
 
 144,222,223 
 
 £ 
 
 3,953,777 
 
 1,670,491 
 
 5,624,268 
 
 11,134,393 
 
 106,182,070 
 
 £ 
 
 1,991,885 
 
 2,443,268 
 
 4,435,153 
 
 4,788,479 
 
 47,373,546 
 
 £ 
 
 1 800,834 
 
 655,165 
 1,455,999 
 1,794,805 
 14,089,383 
 
 £ 
 
 946,013 
 
 662,795 
 
 1,608,808 
 
 1,859,811 
 
 27,371,439 
 
 £ 
 
 13,825,563 
 
 10,245.902 
 
 24,071.765 
 
 32,371,075 
 
 339,239,558 
 
 All the U. S... 
 
 for 1851,) is estimated as follows, by Mr. Hutton, in his 
 very excellent Report on the Census (p. 28) ; — 
 
174 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Within the three years, 1849, 1850, and 1852, the 
 amount of butter produced has, in the Upper Province, 
 increased 372 per cent., and that of cheese, during the 
 same period, 233 per cent., which leads to the inference 
 that our milch cows are rapidly improving in quality. 
 The Census returns of the Lower Province, previous to 
 1851, are very deficient as to the amount of these articles.” 
 While Canada is much behind Ohio in the number of 
 her sheep and the quantity of wool produced, the rate of 
 increase in the number of sheep, as compared with that in 
 the United States, would appear, from page 67 of Ivlr. 
 Kennedy’s Report, to be greatly in her favor, for in ten 
 years the increase in the States has been only 10 per 
 cent. ; and in the weight of the fleece only 32 per cent. ; 
 whereas, in Canada, the increase in wool has, in nine years, 
 been 64 per cent., and that of sheep 35 per cent., show- 
 ing an improvement in the weight of the fleece of not far 
 from 30 per cent. 
 
 The average weight in Canada is found to be : — 
 
 In Upper Canada 2 14-16ths lbs. 
 
 In Lower Canada 2 4-16ths lbs. 
 
 In all Canada 2 10-16ths lbs. 
 
 whilst in the United States it is, as per page 67 of the 
 Abstract, 2 7-16ths or 2 43-lOOths lbs., showing an 
 excess in favor of Canada in the average of nearly 3 oz. 
 per fleece, The proportion, too, in both countries, that 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 175 
 
 is, the whole United States and Canada, is about the 
 same, being about nine sheep to every ten inhabitants. 
 Upper Canadd has about ten sheep to every hundred 
 acres occupied ; Lower Canada has eight ; and the 
 United States has 7 17-I00tl»s. 
 
 With regard to horses there are in both Canadas, 
 according to the Census Returns, 385,377, or very nearly 
 one to every five inhabitants, and they have increased 
 during the last nine years 48 per cent. In some Counties 
 the increase has been very much greater than this, for we 
 find in Oxford an increase of 350 per cent. ; this would 
 induce a belief that there was sojne great error in the 
 returns of 1842, as there seems to be no good reason wliy 
 the number of horses should not have kept pace with the 
 population; the wealth of the latter having, also, during 
 that time so materially increased. If in nine or ten years 
 the population has increased cent, per cent. ; it is almost 
 unaccountable that the number of horses should not have 
 increased in a similar ratio.” {Keport on Cenms^'page^ 
 34 and 35.) 
 
 MANUFACTURES. 
 
 For Upper Canada we find 610 grist mills reported, of 
 which 41 are impelled by steam, and 569 by water. Two 
 hundred and seventy-eight of them return 1,768,840 barrels 
 of flour as turned out by them per annum ; eleven, 5,675 
 per week ; twenty- three, 3,821 per day. Of 77, the annual 
 dues or rents are given as JGI 1,674. One hundred and 
 sixty-five of them make no returns. The hands returned as 
 
176 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 employed are 1,588. Four hundred and thirty-pine of 
 them report ^608,306 as the amount of their invested 
 capital. 
 
 There are reported as in operation in Upper Canada 
 1,618 saw-mills— 169 of t4^em wrought by steam, with 
 1,449 by water. The quantity of timber returned by 
 "966 of them is 374,953,000 feet per annum ; 151 return 
 510,000 feet per day ; 20, 1 1,545 logs— plank 472 M. 
 Of annual profit or rent 139 return ^634,655. Capital 
 to the amount of ;£4 19,868 is returned as invested in 
 1 169. The number of men returned as employed by them 
 is 4,884. Four hundred and thirty-three make no returns. 
 
 One soap and candle factory makes 90 tons of soap 
 per annum, with 160,000 cwt. of candles; and employs 
 25 men. One woollen factory in Carlton produces 35,000 
 yards of cloth annually ; two in Grenville and Leeds, 
 which employ 65 men, 133,000; one in Frontenac, Len- 
 nox, and Addington, 100,000, employing 32 men ; two in 
 Northumberland and Durham (one of them employing 
 170 hands), 300,000 ; one steam power, 50,000 ; four, 
 144,000, ivith 1,260 pairs of blankets. Tw^o agricultural 
 implement manufacturers return .£3,750 capital, employ 
 30 men, and produce £3,3 15 per annum. 
 
 1 he Niagara dock cost £40,000, and gives employment 
 to between 200 and 300 men. 
 
 A single foundry in Grenville and Leeds, returns 60 
 men as employed, 800 tons of iron as cast per annum, 
 £25,000 as capital invested, and £4^,000 per annum of 
 profits. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 177 
 
 Two lathe mills turn out 100,000 feet annually ; and 
 one paper mill, with j£2,000 capital, employs 11 men, 
 and produces 40 tons of paper. 
 
 Lower Canada reports 536 gristmills — 4 steam, and 
 532 wa'ter ; the produce of 101 is returned, as 162,010 
 barrels of flour per annum. Thirteen produce 684 per 
 day. By 206 produce or rents to the extent of ^32,074 
 are annually realized. Two hundred and sixteen make 
 no returns. The number of hands returned as employed 
 IS 836. Three hundred and seventy-five return j8300,754 
 of capital. 
 
 Of saw mills there are reported for Lower Canada 
 1079 — 7 being impelled by steam, and 1,072 by water. 
 One Iinndred and fifty-three return 24,523,300 feet of 
 timber per annum ; twenty-one, 34,500 feet per day ; 
 twenty-five, 55,200 logs — 100 per day ; one hundred 
 and thirty-eight, 3,632,450 deals or planks. Three 
 hundred and twenty-two report ^51,412 as rent or 
 annual profit, aad ^357,155 as capital. The Bumber 
 of hands reported as employed is 3,731. From 420 no 
 returns were received. 
 
 Two tanneries return £3,500 capital, £5375 profit, 
 men 14. One lathe and planing mill returns a capital of 
 £15,000, with £25,000 of proceeds, and 25 men. By 
 one scythe and rake factory, 74,000 dozens of scythes and 
 140,000 dozens of rakes are made annually. One ship- 
 yard at Portneuf employs 150 men. Two paper mills 
 return £1500 capital, £4500 profits, and 101 men as 
 employed. One pail factory,with £600 capital, produces 
 
178 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 20,000 pails. Two paper mills, with a capital of JG8500, 
 return ^12, .500 as proceeds, with 22 men. 
 
 One cotton factory returns £1,750 capital, 40 men, 
 and £6,250 as annual proceeds. One saleratus factory, 
 employing 4 men, produces 36,000 Fbs. annually. 
 
 A glas*s factory in Vaudreuil, returns £11,000 capital, 
 with a produce of 30,000 boxes of ,50 feet each, 1.50 
 men being employed. 
 
 Tn the City of Quebec 17 carriage factories are 
 reported. 
 
 For the City of Montreal brick-yards are reported 
 producing 2,500,000 bricks annually, and furnishing em- 
 ployment for 50 men. One grist mill in Montreal pro- 
 duces 30,000 barrels of flour. One boot and shoe fac- 
 tory returns in 18.50, £45,000. One soap and candle 
 factory produces 5,000 boxes of Candles, with 1,800 
 boxes of soap. By one ship-yard 100 men are employed. 
 Among the returns for Lower Canada are included 
 70,389 barrels of fish. 
 
 These particulars have been presented merely by way 
 of specimen ; for the sake of convenience we shall avail 
 ourselves, for the residue of the Reports, — of a Table on 
 this head, derived from the Abstract of the Census, — given 
 in the American Statistical Annual for 1854, p. 481. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 179 
 
 There were in Canada, according to the Census, in 1852: 
 
 Establishmonfs, 
 
 Asheries 
 
 Axe Factories. 
 
 Agricultural Implement Factories, 
 
 Barley Mills . . . 
 
 Broom Factories 
 
 Brick Yards 
 
 Bark Mills 
 
 Breweries 
 
 Cabinet Factories 
 
 Carding Mills 
 
 Carriage Factories 
 
 Carding and Fulling Mills 
 
 Chair Factories 
 
 Clover Mills 
 
 Cloth Factories 
 
 Comb ditto. 
 
 Cooperages 
 
 Cigar Factories 
 
 Colton ditto 
 
 Distilleries, 
 
 Engine Factories 
 
 Fanning Mills 
 
 Fannin? Mill Factories 
 
 Forape* m Su Maurice 
 
 Fulfing Milk 
 
 Foundries. 
 
 Glass Factories 
 
 Grist Mills 
 
 Glue Factories 
 
 Lath ditto 
 
 Last ditto 
 
 Last and Peg ditto 
 
 Lime Kilns 
 
 Marble Factories 
 
 Machine Shops ] 
 
 u. c. 
 
 93 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 1 
 
 86 
 
 6 
 
 50 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 hands. 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 127 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 161 
 
 97 
 
 610 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 L. C. 
 
 c 
 
 h 
 
 209 
 
 302 
 
 3 
 
 13 
 
 i 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 — 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 — 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 96 
 
 2 
 
 o 
 
 — 
 
 6 
 
 24 
 
 24 
 
 208 
 
 258 
 
 o 
 
 2 
 
 — 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 — 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 — 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 133 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 — 
 
 2 
 
 35 
 
 3 
 
 — 
 
 161 
 
 33 
 
 130 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 536 
 
 1146 
 
 — 
 
 1 
 
 — 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 — 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 — 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 i 
 
180 
 
 APPENDIX 
 
 Establishments, 
 
 u. c. 
 
 L. C. 
 
 Total. 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 Nail Fap.torifis 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 
 42 
 
 16 
 
 58 
 
 Oil Mills 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 Pail 
 
 12 ! 
 
 6 
 
 18 
 
 
 18 
 
 7 
 
 25 
 
 Pot Asl^f^^ios 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 Pjastpr Mills 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 13 
 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 12 
 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 14 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 Pump Faotoirips 
 
 3 
 
 
 3 
 
 Rail ditto 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 Rope ditto 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 Rake ditto 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 Rifle ditto 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 Saw Mills 
 
 1618 
 
 1079 
 
 2697 
 
 Shino’Ie Factories. 
 
 36 
 
 4 
 
 40 
 
 Saleratus ditto 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 Stave ditto 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 Scythe and Rake ditto 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 Stone-ware ditto. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 Sash ditto 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 Soap ditto 
 
 5 
 
 11 
 
 16 
 
 Starch ditto 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 Ship-yards 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 20 
 
 Tanneries 
 
 270 
 
 218 
 
 488 
 
 Thrpshincr Mill Factories 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 Turning Lathes 
 
 2 
 
 
 2 
 
 Tobacco Factories 
 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 Vinegar ditto * - 
 
 4 
 
 
 4 
 
 Woollen ditto 
 
 90 
 
 17 
 
 107 
 
 Wheel ditto 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 Whip ditto 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 Piano-Forte ditto 
 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 181 
 
 The above Table is accompanied by the statement that 
 it probably does not represent one-third the actual exist- 
 ing manufacturing establishments in the Province ; but it 
 shows that Canada has progressed rapidly in this branch 
 of industry, and indicates the descriptions of manufacture 
 cariied on. 
 
 i^mong other employments which have recently sprung 
 up, may be named manufactories of Railroad Carriages 
 and Locomotives. Of the latter Mr. Good, of Toronto, 
 has already turned out a number that do him credit. 
 These are being made also in Montreal ; and Hamilton is 
 producing carriages which will compare favourably with 
 the best seen elsewhere. 
 
 Mathematical Instrument rymkins: has also made* a be- 
 ginning among us. 
 
 Nine Ship-yards in Quebec employ among them- 1,338 
 men. With respect to the shijps built in Canada, Messrs. 
 Tonge & Co', of Liverpool, express themselves thus in 
 their Circular of 1852. — “ We have much pleasure in no- 
 tincing a marked improvraent both in the model, material 
 and finish of Canadian Ships, the majority of which have 
 been constructed to class six or seven years, and to which 
 a decided preference is given by buyers over the spruce 
 ships, or those classing but four or five years, even at a 
 very increased price. Among those which have arrived 
 within the last eight months, will be found some as fine 
 specimens of Naval Architecture, as ever have been pro- 
 duced, combining in reality (from having great length of 
 floor and fine ends) both carrying and sailing properties of 
 no ordinary kinds.” 
 
 p 
 
182 
 
 APPENDIX, 
 
 An extensive Sugar Manufactory, erected at a large 
 cost by John Redpath, Esq., is now in successful opera- 
 tion in Montreal. 
 
 IMPORTS AND EXPORTS FROM 1841 TO 1854. 
 
 Years, 
 
 Imports. 
 
 Exports. 
 
 
 Currency. 
 
 Currency. 
 
 
 £ s. d. 
 
 £ s. d. 
 
 1841 
 
 2,892,494 1 1 
 
 2,427,796 17 10 
 
 1842 
 
 2,702,017 14 1 
 
 1,020,219 3 6 
 
 1843 
 
 2,568,083 16 11 
 
 1,755,850 18 5 
 
 1844 
 
 4,602,130 10 5 
 
 2,241,080 0 5 
 
 1845 
 
 4,940,739 15 11 
 
 2,777,648 8 9 
 
 1846 
 
 4,780,857 5 5 
 
 2,524,795 5 1 
 
 1847 
 
 4,548,940 6 4 
 
 2,680,302 11 10 
 
 1848 
 
 2,649,584 17 11 
 
 1,749,167 11 1 
 
 1849 
 
 3,002,599 0 0 
 
 2,327,564 0 0 
 
 1850 
 
 4,245,417 0 0 
 
 2,669,998 0 U 
 
 1851 
 
 5,358,697 0 0 
 
 3,452,351 0 0 
 
 1852 
 
 5,071,223 0 0 
 
 3,826,091 0 0 
 
 1853 
 
 7,995,359 1 1 
 
 5,950,325 15 4 
 
 1854 
 
 10,132,331 6 9 
 
 5,754,797 10 9 
 
 CUSTOMS REVENUE. 
 
 The Revenue— rapidly growing — which Canada derives 
 from her commerce, is exhibited in the following statement 
 
 of the Gross Customs’ Revenue from imports since the 
 Union. 
 
 £ s. d. 
 
 In 1841 225,834 7 10^ 
 
 1842 278,930 7 3J 
 
 1843 235,087 16 OJ 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 183 
 
 Customs Revenue — Continued, 
 
 1844 445,559 4 10^ 
 
 1845 449,990 4 10^ 
 
 1846 422,403 18 5J 
 
 1847 413,248 19 6i 
 
 1848 436,955 19 2 
 
 1849 443,531 2 4 
 
 1850 615,694 13 8 
 
 1851 737,439 0 2 
 
 1852 739,263 12 9 
 
 1853 1,029,782 15 4 
 
 1854 1,225,192 7 4 
 
 1855 881,774 10 3 
 
 Statistical View of the Commerce of Canada, exhibiting the 
 Value of Exports to and Imports from Great Britain, her 
 Colonies, and Foreign Countries, together with the 
 Tonnage of Vessels arriving and departing during the 
 year 1864 : 
 
 COMMERCE. 
 
 Value of Exports. 
 Great Britain . . £2,719,178 12 10 
 North Amer. Colonies 382,318 13 4 
 British West Indies . 2,247 7 11 
 
 United S. of America 2,604,720 13 5 
 
 Value of Imports. 
 £5,740,832 11 4 
 168,778 14 3 
 658 3 11 
 3,883,274 9 8 
 
 Other Foreign Countries 46,332 3 3 338,777 7 7 
 
 Total . £5,764,797 10 9 £10,132,334 6 9 
 
 I 
 
184 ^ 
 
 APPENI>1X 
 
 SHIPPING. 
 
 Tonnage of British Vessels. 
 Entered Cleared 
 Inwards. Outwards. 
 
 2,884,759 2,209,462. 
 
 Total Inwards. 
 4,269,394 
 
 This Table includes the 
 Ports. 
 
 Tonnage of Foreign Vessels, 
 Entered Entered 
 
 Inwards. Outwards. 
 1,384,635 1,337,954 
 
 Total Outwards. 
 3,547,416 
 
 Tonnage of Vessels at Inland 
 
 General Statement of the Tonnage, Inwards and Outwards, 
 at the Canadian Ports, the coasting in its Inland Waters, 
 and the intercourse by Inland Navigation between 
 Canada and the United States, during the year 1854 ; 
 
 Steam 
 Sail . 
 
 Inwards. 
 
 British. American. 
 1,997,228 1,133,503 
 
 282,301 151,020 
 
 Outwards. 
 
 British. American. 
 1,286,299 1,117,707 
 
 233,219 128,344 
 
 Total . 2,270,529 1,284,523 
 
 1,519,518 
 
 1,246,051 
 
 INWARDS AND OUTWARDS ; 
 
 British Steam .... 3,283,527 ) 
 
 British Sail, 515,520 ( 
 
 American Steam . . . 2,251,210 ) 
 
 American Sail . . . . 279,364 i 
 
 Total Inwards and Outwards 
 
 3,799,047 
 
 2,531,574 
 
 Tons . ; . 6,330,621 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 185 
 
 A STATEMENT exhibiting the Gross Revenue of the Province 
 of Canada, for the year 1855 ; also, an Abstract of the Expen- 
 diture, including Expenses of Collection during the same period, 
 and the State of the Consoliduted Fund on 3Ist January, 1856. 
 
 EXPENDITURE. Cy. Cy. 
 
 Interest on Public Debt . . .X219470 12 11 
 
 Civil Government 65021 19 3 
 
 Administration of Justice . . . 109353 ll 11 
 Provificial Penitentiary .... 15000 0 0 
 
 Legislation 96697 15 4 
 
 Education 106738 1 8 
 
 Agriculture 176^0 10 0 
 
 Hospitals and other Charities, . 39317 S 0 
 Geological Survey ..... 1574 19 II 
 
 Militia and Enrolled Force . . 23050 0 0 
 Lighthouses and Coast Service . 32894 6 3 
 
 Emigration 2466 1 II 
 
 Pensions ........ 11413 18 6 
 
 Public Institutions 9904 15 5 
 
 Ocean and River Steam Service . 42647 12 4 
 
 Police 5514 18 6 
 
 Miscellaneous Printing . . . 5447 2 3 
 
 Public Works and Buildings . . 68479 ]0 11 
 
 Indian Annuities 9855 0 0 
 
 Census 1838 3 6 
 
 Sinking Fund 85151 5 7 
 
 Seigniorial Tenure 6950 6 0 
 
 Miscellaneous 19950 16 10 
 
 Expenses of Collection : — 
 
 Customs, (including £5811 11s 
 Id,) for Return 
 
 Duties, . . . £67954 ^9 0 
 Revenue from Public Works, 
 including £41266 17s 9d 
 for repairs, . 63966 3 0 
 Excise .... 2485 13 4 
 Territorial . . .49017 4 8 
 Fines and Forfeit- 
 ures including Sei- 
 zures . . . 3022 17 8 
 
 V. Casual .... 12034 18 7 
 
 198481 16 3 
 
 T, ,, , ' 1194880 13 9 
 
 1 0 Balance at credit of Consolidated Fund . . .1302245 6 0 
 
 • Total, £2,497,125 19 9 
 
186 
 
 APPENDIX 
 
 REVENUE. 
 
 Currency. Currency, f, 
 
 £ s. d. £ 8. d. 
 
 By Balance at credit 
 of Consolidated 
 Fund, 31st Janu~ 
 ary, 1855, . . £1297033 18 11 
 Add, — On account 
 of Sales Public 
 Works, including 
 £352 Os. 7d. per 
 Statement, No. 
 
 25, 15384 0 7 
 
 1312417 19 6 
 
 Less, — Amount in- 
 cluded in State- 
 ment, No. 48, 
 
 Public Accounts, 
 
 1854 .... £31912 19 3 
 Arrears of former 
 
 years, per State- 
 ment, No. 42, 
 
 Public Accounts, 
 
 1855 .... 193 0 10 
 
 Rebellion Loses, 
 
 Lower Canada, 727 14 7 
 
 32833 1 4 .8 
 
 -1279584 4 10 
 
 Customs 881774 10 3 
 
 Excise 19246 10 7 
 
 Territorial • 125347 5 1 
 
 Bank Imposts 22459 9 10 
 
 Revenue from Public Works . . 100208 12 1 
 
 Fines and Forfeitures including 
 
 Seiz-ures 5807 6 6 
 
 Casual Revenue .*.... 55980 11 2 
 
 Law Fee Fund, 12 Vic., caps. 63 
 
 and 64 6717 9 5 
 
 1217541 14 11 
 
 Total Currency £2,497,125 19 9 
 
 By Balance at credit of Consolidated Fuud 
 
 £1,302,245 6 0 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 187 
 
 Memo. — Shewing the state of the above Balance, viz. ; — 
 
 Advanced on account of Public 
 Works and for redemption of De- 
 bentures 906763 19 7 
 
 Cash Available, 395481 6 5 
 
 1,302,245 6 0 
 
 BANK IMPOSTS. 
 
 Statement for the year oommencing 1st Nov., 1854 and 
 ending 1st Nov., 1855. 
 
 Isf Nov, 1854 to Is/ May 1855. 
 
 Banks. 
 
 Average Circulation. 
 
 Percentage. 
 
 
 £ 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 £ 8. 
 
 d. 
 
 Montreal, 
 
 . 1,062,117 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 3,865 15 
 
 8 
 
 Upper Canada, 
 
 . .400,977 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 2,004 17 
 
 8 
 
 Commercial, 
 
 . , .353,567 
 
 16 
 
 11 
 
 1,767 16 
 
 9 
 
 British North America, . , 
 
 . . .258,463 
 
 17 
 
 2 
 
 1,292 6 
 
 4 
 
 Gore, 
 
 ...233,331 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 1,166 13 
 
 1 
 
 City, 
 
 ...190,108 
 
 9 
 
 6 
 
 900 10 
 
 6 
 
 Quebec, 
 
 ...125,777 
 
 16 
 
 7 
 
 628 17 
 
 9 
 
 People’s 
 
 ... 91,627 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 458 2 
 
 9 
 
 1st May 
 
 to 1st Nov,. 
 
 , 1855. 
 
 
 
 Montreal, 
 
 ...971,519 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 3,331 1 
 
 10 
 
 Upper Canada, 
 
 . . .441,169 
 
 15 
 
 11 
 
 2,205 17 
 
 0 
 
 Commercial, 
 
 ...291,708 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 1,458 10 
 
 9 
 
 British North America, . 
 
 . . .226,877 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 1,134 7 
 
 8 
 
 Gore, 
 
 ...234,777 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 1,173 17 
 
 8 
 
 City, 
 
 ...162,954 
 
 19 
 
 2 
 
 814 15 
 
 6 
 
 Quebec, 
 
 ...132,775 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 663 17 
 
 7 
 
 People’s, 
 
 . . . 71,368 
 
 13 
 
 8 
 
 356 16 
 
 10 
 
188 
 
 APPENDIX, 
 
 Statement of the Cost of Construction of various Provincial 
 
 thereon for 
 
 
 Cost of Construe- 
 
 Expenditure in 18.54 
 
 Works, 
 
 tion to 1st Jan. 
 
 
 included in the fore- 
 
 
 18.56, 
 
 
 going column 
 
 
 Canals. 
 
 £ S. 
 
 d. 
 
 £ S. 
 
 d. 
 
 Welland, 
 
 .1,061,497 6 
 
 6 
 
 18,893 5 
 
 2 
 
 St. Lawrence — General 
 
 
 
 
 
 Expenditure, 
 
 . 15,822 10 
 
 9 
 
 663 12 
 
 7 
 
 Williamsburg, 
 
 267,203 7 
 
 8 
 
 2,835 13 
 
 7 
 
 Beauharnois, 
 
 365,331. 4 
 
 7 
 
 7,185 2 
 
 5 
 
 Lachine, 
 
 . 481,736 1 
 
 8 
 
 4,623 4 11 
 
 Junction, 
 
 38,779 16 
 
 10 
 
 6,810 18 
 
 5 
 
 Chats, 
 
 31,153 10 
 
 1 
 
 16,122 8 
 
 9 
 
 Chambly, 
 
 16,863 6 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 St. Ours, 
 
 38,219 8 
 
 3 
 
 150 0 
 
 0 
 
 Burlington Bay, 
 
 56,798 S 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 St. Ann’s, 
 
 23,660 8 
 
 8 
 
 33 0 
 
 0 
 
 Slides, &c. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Ottawa, 
 
 117,647 19 
 
 8 
 
 8,363 0 
 
 4 
 
 Trent & Newcastle, .... 
 
 88,025 19 
 
 0 
 
 184 0 
 
 3 
 
 St. Maurice, 
 
 48,699 1. : 
 
 11 • 
 
 15,243 17 
 
 9 
 
 Harbour. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Port Stanley, 
 
 35,376 8 
 
 2 
 
 2,338 0 
 
 0 
 
 Bridge. 
 
 
 
 
 
 B}^own, 
 
 16,612 3 11 
 
 . 
 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 189 
 
 shewing the Expenditure 
 
 Expenditure in I 8.05 
 included in foregoing 
 column. 
 
 ^ s. d. 
 22,943 14 10 
 
 Cost of Repairs and 
 Management in 
 
 £ s. d. 
 
 24,852 10 10 
 
 Cost of Repairs and 
 Management in 
 
 £ s. d. 
 30,594 19 9 
 
 2,673 6 8 
 2,272 15 4 
 14,694 3 6 
 16,853 18 1 
 14,411 7 4 
 
 13 5 9 
 1,933 7 8 
 5,835 12 4 
 4,573 9 9 
 
 36 17 7 
 2,428 4 5 
 4,628 5 5 
 8,078 7 8 
 
 14,377 14 9 
 
 
 
 261 2 0 
 6,841 13 -9 
 864 13 6 
 
 1,745 8 8 
 693 15 11 
 
 242 19 3 
 
 1,617 1 9 
 849 4 0 
 1,581 6 6 
 221 17 3 
 
 14,913 4 5 
 11,081 9 2 
 10,435 10 1 
 
 2,101 14 1 
 1,032 6 8 
 1,816 12 4 
 
 3,234 5 0 
 271 13 0 
 2,072 1 7 
 
 3,944 3 4 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 a2 
 
 
190 
 
 appendix. 
 
 CANALS. 
 
 Canada has provided, and is now providing for herself, 
 through means of her public works— completed, in pro- 
 gress, and projected— facilities of intercommunication, 
 which will do much to secure for her the full advantage of 
 varied and superabounding resources with which the muni- 
 ficence of the Creator has gifted her. 
 
 Though sums have been expended on Roads and 
 Bridges (amounting as per Public Accounts for 1852, p. 
 168, to ;6510,440 I6s 6d for Upper, and £303,251 11s 
 7d for Lower Canada), on Harbours and Light-houses 
 (which cost up to the close of 1852 £274,256 12s), and 
 a variety of other works of more or less importance, our 
 present reference is chiefly to our Canals and Railroads. 
 
 Of the former those claiming special notice are the Wei- 
 land and St, Lawrence Canals. 
 
 The Welland Canal extends from Lake Erie to Lake 
 Ontario, and overcomes the interruption to the navigation 
 caused by the Falls of Niagara. It has two entrances 
 from Lake Erie, about seventeen miles apart ; the upper 
 entrance being from the Grand Liver, a little above Port 
 Maitland, about thirty-seven miles west from Buffalo. 
 It also communicates with the Grand Liver by a branch 
 commencing on that stream at Dunnville, five miles above 
 Port Maitland, through which branch the who^e Canal has 
 hitherto been supplied with water. The termination on 
 Lake Ontario is at Port Dalhousie. The Port Maitland 
 entrance has an advantage in spring over the Port Col- 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 191 
 
 borne, in being clear of ice several weeks before either 
 that or Buffalo Harbour.” (Report of Commissioners of 
 Public Works for 1848, p. 53.) ^ 
 
 The work was originally undertaken by a Company, 
 for which an Act was obtained in the year 1824, with a 
 capital of ;G37,500.” In the year following another Act 
 was obtained providing for the enlargement of the works 
 and the increase of capital to X200, 000, which was extend- 
 ed in 1834 to ^250,000. Stock to the extent of jG 25,- 
 000 was taken in it by Lower Canada in 1827. At the 
 close of 1834 Upper Canada held jO 107,500 stock in it, 
 besides having loaned it ^100,000. From the Imperial 
 Government also it had received a Loan of ^55,555. In 
 1837 the Loans made to it by Upper Canada were con- 
 verted into Stock, and in 1839 the Government were au- 
 thorised by the Legislature to purchase the Stock of 
 private holders, for which purpose debentures were issued, 
 redeemable in twenty years from their date, bearing in- 
 terest at the rate of two per cent, for the first two years, 
 three per cent, for the third year, four per cent, for the 
 fourth, five per cent, for the fifth, and six per cent, for the 
 sixth and following years.” About Je500,000 is supposed 
 to have been expended on the work previous to its coming 
 into the hands of Government. In 1841 a commence- 
 ment was made of the improvements and enlargements 
 which are making it now of so much value to the Province. 
 Its cost, as stated in the Public Accounts for 1852, has 
 been in all £1,644, ,536 12s 2d. 
 
 This noble Canal, which will constitute the monument 
 
192 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 of its spirited projectors when they shall have gone the 
 vray of all the earth,” is 28 miles in length, has a descent 
 of 3S4 feet, through 37 Locks of 1 50 feet in length and 
 26^ in width, and is “ passable from lake to lake by ves- 
 sels of 134 feet over all, 26 feet beam, and 9 feet draught, 
 stowing 3,000 barrels under deck.” (Andrews, p 226 — 
 and Keefer, p. 20.) 
 
 The St. Lawrence Canals comprehend— 
 
 1. The Williamsburg Canals, — four in numl)er, with six 
 Locks, — “ lying between Prescott and Dickenson^s Land- 
 ing, constructed for the purpose of overcoming the Rapids 
 at the Galops, Point Iroquois, Rapid Plat, and Farren’s 
 Point.” 
 
 2. The Cornwall Canal, whose object is “ to overcome 
 the difficulties of the St. Lawrence, presented by the Long 
 Sault Rapids.”. The Locks are the largest in Canada, 
 having a chamber 200 feet long and 55 feet wide, in the 
 clear ; the depth of water in the sills being nine feet as in 
 the other large Canals in the Province.” 
 
 8. The Beauharnois Canal, which, extending from the 
 lower end of Lake St. Francis, overcomes the Rapids of 
 the Coteau, tl;e Cedars, and the Cascades and 
 
 4. The Lachine Canal, which “ extends from the vil- 
 lage of Lachine, at the foot of Lake St. Louis, to the 
 City of Montreal, overcoming the various Rapids in the 
 St. Lawrence between the two places.” Its length is be- 
 tween eight and nine miles ; it has seven locks of cut stone? 
 of the same capacity as the Beauharnois. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 193 
 
 In addition to the above the following claim notice as 
 works of general importance. 
 
 1. The Chambly Canal, which extends from St. 
 Johns to Chambly, a distance of about eleven and a-half 
 miles, and was made to overcome the interruption in the 
 Channel of the Richelieu between the two places. It 
 forms the chief portion of the works necessary to connect 
 the navigation of the River St. Lawrence, by way of the 
 Richelieu, with that of Lake Champlain.” Its cost has 
 been ^103,836, according to the Public Accounts for 
 1852. 
 
 2. St. Ours Lock, &c. 
 
 “ This Lock is in the River Richelieu, at the foot of 
 the artificial navigation, about fourteen miles from its 
 mouth, and with a dam raises the water sufficiently to over- 
 come the shallow portions of the stream, and afford a free 
 passage to Chambly Basin. In conjunction, therefore, 
 with the Chambly Canal, this Lock opens a communica- 
 tion between the St. Lawrence at Sorel, and Lake 
 Champlain ; while, by the Northern Canal, the communi- 
 cation is continued from Whitehall to the navio-able 
 waters of the Hudson near Troy. At the site of the work 
 the Richelieu is divided into two deep channels by a small 
 island, in the eastern and narrowest of which the Lock is 
 built, while the dam extends across the western. . . .The 
 length of the Lock is 200 feet, by a width of forty-five 
 feet, with six feet of water on the sill ” 
 
 3. St. Ann’s Lock. 
 
 “ This Lock is situated on one of the branches of the 
 
194 , 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Kiver Ottawa, between the village of St. Ann’s and Isle 
 Perrot, about twenty-five miles west of Montreal. It ^ 
 
 overcomes the St. Ann’s Rapids, and thus, in conjunction * f 
 
 \\ith the Lachine and the Ottawa Military Canals, opens 
 a communication from Montreal to Bytown, and thence il 
 by the Rideau Canal to Kingston. . . .The Lock is 190 il 
 feet long, by forty-five feet wide, with seven feet of water li 
 
 on the sill in the ordinary state of the river during summer, li 
 
 and six feet at its very lowest state.” i\ 
 
 4>. The Burlington Bay Canal, which opens the passage s: 
 
 from Lake Ontario up to Hamilton, and whose cost has f 
 
 been ^52,773 7s 2d. p 
 
 On the Improvements of the Ottawa, including the « 
 Slides, J01 15,735 2s lOd have been spent, and JB 139,626 
 1 Is on the Improvements of the Trent. On the Improve- r- 
 ment of Lake St. Peter there have been expended 
 jB75,358 15s 5d/ with considerable sums on other Works. ^ 
 (Report of Commissionors, &c., for 1848, and Public 
 Accounts for 1852.) d 
 
 The entire Revenue from Rents and Tolls on all the 
 Canals for 1853 was ;G 103,687. Including repairs, the ^ 
 charges amounted to J04, 1,751. Hence the Net Revenue 
 was JG6 1,953. The increase on all the Canals during : 
 1853 was 27 per cent. 
 
 From Mr. Andrews’ Report (p. 437-443) we make the 
 following extracts, the importance of which will, we pre- , 
 sume, much more than compensate for their length. 
 
 There is no country which possesses Canals of the 
 magnitude and importance of those in Canada. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 195 
 
 The St. Lawrence Canal was designed for paddle- 
 steamers; but from the magnitude of the Rapids and their 
 regular inclination, the aid of the Locks is not required in 
 descending the river. Large steamers, drawing seven 
 feet water, with passengers and the mails, leave the foot 
 of Lake Ontario in the morning, and reach the wharves at 
 Montreal hy daylight, without passing through a single 
 lock. At some of the Rapids there are obstacles prevent- 
 ing the descent of deeply-laden craft, but the Government 
 are about to give the main channel in all the Rapids a 
 depth of ten feet water, when the whole descending trade 
 by steam will keep the river, leaving the Canals to the 
 ascending craft. 
 
 “ The time required for the descent of a freight-steamer 
 from the head of lake Ontario to Montreal is forty-eight 
 hours ; the rates of freight have ranged from twelve-and- 
 a-half cents ( the lowest ) per barrel, for flour, to twenty- 
 five cents, including tolfe. The upward trip requires about 
 sixty hours, and the freight per ton ranges from $1 50c 
 to $3 for heavy goods. The ruling freight on Railroad 
 iron last year (1851) from Montreal to Cleveland was $2 
 50c per gross ton, and for return cargo of flour thirty cts. 
 per barrel, tolls included in both cases. 
 
 These rates are yet fluctuating as the long voyage is 
 new, and are so much influenced by the amount of up- 
 cargo obtained, that they cannot be yet considered as 
 settled. It is believed that the freighV'on flour from Lake 
 Erie to Montreal (including tolls) will be brought down to 
 twenty cents, and on iron up to $2.” 
 
196 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Speaking of the construction of a Ship-Canal from the 
 St. Lawrence to Lake Champlain, so as to bring the pro- 
 pellers of Chicago to Burlington and Whitehall — which 
 he describes as contemplated, be says, the construction of 
 such a work must produce a corresponding enlargement of 
 the Northern New York Canal, whereupon there will be 
 a connection between Lake Erie and tide-water on the 
 Hudson, via St. Lawrence, which may be navigated, 
 without trans-shipment, downward in four, and upward in 
 five days.” 
 
 “ The returns of Trade on the Canadian Canals give 
 indication of decided and satisfactory progress in the lead- 
 ing articles of up and down freight.” 
 
 A most decided proof,” he continues, “ of the succses 
 of the Canadian Canals is to be found in the frequent and 
 important reductions which have been made in the tolls of 
 tlie Erie Canal since 1845, the year in which the enlarg- 
 ed Welland Canal first came into serious competition with 
 the route through Buffalo. The policy of the State of 
 New York has been not only to obtain the largest possi- 
 ble revenue from her Canals, but also to protect her own 
 manufactures and products against competitition from 
 other quarters ; and this she has been enabled hitherto 
 most effectually to accomplish, by levying discriminating 
 tolls. Thus, foreign salt was excluded from the West- 
 ern States by a rate of toll about twice its whole 
 value. The toll upon this article in 1845 was three 
 cents per 1,000 pounds per mile, or $21.78 per ton of 
 2,000 pounds (about $3 per barrel) 5 while the toll 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 197 
 
 upon New York State salt was only one-thirteenlh part 
 of that upon the foreign article. In 1846 (the first year 
 afier the opening of the enlarged Welland), the tolls on 
 foreign salt were reduced one half, and a still greater 
 amount on New York State salt. The next year a 
 further reduction of thirty-three per cent, took place ; 
 and in 1850 the toll was again reduced one-half, so that it 
 is now only one-sixth the rate charged in 1845 ; but it is 
 still subject to a tax five times as great as that paid by 
 New York State salt. 
 
 “In like manner, railroad iron, in 1845, paid a toll of 
 nine mills ; in 1846, this was reduced to five mills ; in 
 1850, to four mills ; in 1851 to two-and-a-half mills ; and 
 in 1852, to one-and-a-half mills. Almost every other 
 article of heavy goods and merchandize for up-freight 
 has likewise undergone frequent and heavy reduction in 
 toll on the Erie Canal, since the Welland and St. Law- 
 rence came into competition with it.” 
 
 After noticing: reductions on a multitude of other 
 articles, Mr. Andrews states that “ there can be no ques- 
 tion but that the whole western country would have been 
 annually taxed, both upon their exports and imports,, 
 a much larger sum than is now paid by them, in order to 
 swell the revenue of the Erie Canal, had it not been for 
 the healthful competition of the Canadian works.” 
 
198 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 RAILWAYS. 
 
 GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY. 
 
 MONTREAL TO SARNIA. 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Montreal to Brockville, (now open) 125 
 
 to Kingston, 173 
 
 to Toronto, 333 
 
 « Stratford, (to open in June) 429 
 
 Sarnia, 499 
 
 The Contractors promised that the extension from Brock- 
 ville to Kingston would be open early in the Fall of 1856, and 
 later in the same year that the line would be completed to 
 Toronto. It was contemplated that the section between 
 Toronto and Stratford would be open in June, 1856, and 
 that the whole distance to Sarnia would be ready for travel 
 early in 1857. 
 
 MONTREAL TO PRESCOTT AND BROCKVILLE. 
 
 Montreal to Pointe Claire, 
 
 15 
 
 (( 
 
 to St. Anne’s, 
 
 
 u 
 
 to Vaudreuil, 
 
 
 a 
 
 to Coteau Landing, 
 
 37 
 
 (( 
 
 to Lancaster, 
 
 54 
 
 
 to Cornwall, 
 
 68 
 
 u 
 
 to Moulinette, 
 
 74 
 
 it 
 
 to Dickinson’s Landing, 
 
 77 
 
 (C 
 
 to Aults vi lie, 
 
 84 
 
 t( 
 
 to Williamsburg, 
 
 
 « 
 
 to Matilda, 
 
 
 « 
 
 to Edwardsburg, 
 
 
 (( 
 
 to Prescott, 
 
 
 
 to Maitland, 
 
 
 u 
 
 to Brockville, 
 
 
APPENDIX, 
 
 199 
 
 WESTERN DIVISION GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY. 
 
 TORONTO TO ST. MARYS. 
 
 Toronto to Weston, 1st Station, , . . 
 
 9 
 
 u 
 
 to Bramj5lon, 2nd 
 
 {( 
 
 21 
 
 u 
 
 to Georgetown, 3rd 
 
 (C 
 
 29i 
 
 (( 
 
 to Acton, 4th 
 
 u 
 
 35A 
 
 ({ 
 
 to Rockwood, 5th 
 
 ti 
 
 41 
 
 <t 
 
 to Guelph, 6th 
 
 « 
 
 49 
 
 u 
 
 to Berlin, 7th 
 
 • 
 
 u 
 
 62i 
 
 
 to Petersburgh, 8th 
 
 (6 
 
 69 
 
 u 
 
 to Hamburgh, 9th 
 
 U 
 
 75^ 
 
 u 
 
 to Shakspeare,10th 
 
 <( 
 
 81 i 
 
 ii 
 
 to Stratford, 11th 
 
 (( 
 
 88 
 
 <( 
 
 to St. Marys, 12th 
 
 <( 
 
 97i 
 
 EASTERN DIVISION GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY. 
 
 
 MONTREAL TO PORTLAND. 
 
 
 Montreal to Longueuil, 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 to St. Hilaire, 
 
 
 . 17 
 
 ti 
 
 to St. Hyacinthe, . . 
 
 
 . 30 
 
 u 
 
 to Upton, 
 
 
 . 43 
 
 u 
 
 to Acton, 
 
 
 . 49 
 
 it 
 
 to Richmond, 
 
 
 . 72 
 
 a 
 
 to Sherbrooke, 
 
 
 . 96 
 
 u 
 
 to Lennoxville, 
 
 
 . 99 
 
 u 
 
 to Waterville, 
 
 
 . 106 
 
 u 
 
 to Compton, 
 
 
 . 110 
 
 u 
 
 to Coaticook, 
 
 
 . 118 
 
 (( 
 
 to Island Pond, . . . 
 
 
 . 143 
 
 <( 
 
 to North Stratford, 
 
 
 . 158 
 
 
 to Northumberland, 
 
 
 . 183 
 
 u 
 
 to Gorham, 
 
 
 . 201 
 
200 
 
 appendix 
 
 MONTREAL TO PORTLAND — CONTINUED. 
 
 Montroal to Shelburne, 
 
 to Bethel, 
 
 to Bryant’s Pond, ^30 
 
 to South Paris, 
 
 to Oxford, 
 
 to Mechanic Falls, 256 
 
 to Danville Junction, 264 
 
 << to New Gloucester, 270 
 
 to Yarmouth Junction, 280 
 
 to Yarmouth, 281 
 
 to Portland, . 292 
 
 MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 
 
 Montreal to Richmond, '72 
 
 to Danville, 
 
 << to Warwick, 
 
 to Arthabaska, 104 
 
 to Stanfold 
 
 to Somerset, HO 
 
 to Becancour, 127 
 
 to Methot’s Mills, 139 
 
 to Black River, 14:8 
 
 to Craig’s Road, 153 
 
 to Chaudiere, 159 
 
 to Point Levi, (Quebec.) * 168 
 
 POINT LEVI TO ST. THOMAS. 
 
 Point Levi to Chaudiere, 9 
 
 to St. Henri, 17 
 
 to St. Charles, 25 
 
 (( to Berthier, 42 
 
 to St. Thomas, 49 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 201 
 
 COBOURG AND PETERBORO’ RAILROAD. 
 
 COBOUPG TO PETERBORoL 
 
 Cobourg to Baltimore, 5 
 
 to Bradin’s, 10 
 
 to Harwood, 15 
 
 to Indian Village, 18 
 
 to Keene, 21 
 
 to Morgans, 25 
 
 « to Peterboro’, 28 
 
 GREAT WESTERN RAILROAD. 
 
 NIAGARA TO DETROIT. 
 
 Niagara to Thorold, 9 
 
 « to St. Catherines, 11 
 
 to Jordan, 17 
 
 « to Beamsville, 22 
 
 << to Grimsby, 27 
 
 to Ontario, 32 
 
 « to Hamilton, 43 
 
 to Dnndas, 48 
 
 « to Flamboro’,.. 52 
 
 << to Copetown, 55 
 
 << • to Vansickles, .' 59 
 
 << to Fairchild’s Creek, 62 
 
 « to Galt, (branch road) 74 
 
 to Preston, 87 
 
 « to Paris, ^72 
 
 « to Princeton, 79 
 
 „ to Eastwood,^ . 86 
 
 « to Woodstock, ' 91 
 
^02 
 
 APPENDIX, 
 
 NIAGARA TO DETROIT — CONTINUED. 
 
 Niagara to Beachville, 
 
 96 
 
 <{ 
 
 to Ingersoll, 
 
 . 100 
 
 u 
 
 to Edwardsburgh, 
 
 . 109 
 
 u 
 
 to London, 
 
 . 119 
 
 ii 
 
 to Komoka, 
 
 . 129 
 
 <( 
 
 to Mt. Brydges, 
 
 . 134 
 
 u 
 
 to Ekfrid, 
 
 . 159 
 
 u 
 
 to Mosa, 
 
 , 149 
 
 ii 
 
 to Wardsville, 
 
 . 155 
 
 ii 
 
 to Both well, 
 
 . 160 
 
 ii 
 
 to Thamesville, 
 
 . 168 
 
 ii 
 
 to Chatham, 
 
 . 183 
 
 ii 
 
 to Baptiste Creek, 
 
 . 198 
 
 ii 
 
 to Rochester, * . . 
 
 . 210 
 
 ii 
 
 to Puce, 
 
 . 216 
 
 ii 
 
 to Windsor, (opposite Detroit). . . . 
 
 . 229 
 
 HAMILTON AND TORONTO RAILROAD. 
 
 TORONTO TO HAMILTON. 
 
 Toronto to Mimico, 
 
 5 
 
 a 
 
 to Port Credit, ....... 
 
 11 
 
 ii 
 
 to Oakville, 
 
 19 
 
 ii 
 
 to Bronte, 
 
 25 
 
 i.i 
 
 to Wellington Square, .... 
 
 31 
 
 a 
 
 to Hamilton, 
 
 38 
 
 ONTARIO, SIMCOE AND HURON RAILROAD. 
 
 TORONTO AND COLLINGWOOD. 
 
 Toronto to Davenport Road, . . . • . 5 
 
 to Weston, 8 
 
 << to York, 12 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 203 
 
 TORONTO AND COLLINGWOOD — CONTINUED. 
 
 Toronto to Thornhill, 
 
 
 15 
 
 u 
 
 to Richmond Hill, . . . . . 
 
 
 19 
 
 u 
 
 to King, 
 
 
 • 24 
 
 <( 
 
 to Aurora, 
 
 
 30 
 
 <( 
 
 to New Market, 
 
 
 34 
 
 <( 
 
 to Holland Landing, .... 
 
 
 38 
 
 u 
 
 to Bradford, 
 
 
 42 
 
 u 
 
 to Bell Ewart, 
 
 
 00 
 
 u 
 
 to Lefroy, 
 
 
 58 
 
 u 
 
 to Barrie, 
 
 
 66 
 
 a 
 
 to Essa, ........ 
 
 
 74 
 
 u 
 
 to Sunnidale, 
 
 
 81 
 
 4< 
 
 to Nottawasaga, 
 
 
 88 
 
 « 
 
 to Collingwood, 
 
 
 97 
 
 MONTREAL AND NEW YORK RAILROAD 
 
 MONTREAL TO PLATTSBURGH. 
 
 Montreal to Lachine, 
 
 
 . 10 
 
 (C 
 
 to Caughnawaga 
 
 
 . 15 
 
 (t 
 
 to St. Isidore 
 
 
 . 21 
 
 •• 
 
 to St. Remi, 
 
 
 . 26 
 
 a 
 
 to La Pigeoniere, 
 
 
 . 30 
 
 u 
 
 to Sherrington 
 
 
 . 32 
 
 (( 
 
 to Johnson’s 
 
 
 
 u 
 
 to Hemmingford, 
 
 
 . 41 
 
 u 
 
 to Moer’s Junction, 
 
 
 . 47 
 
 u 
 
 to Sciota, 
 
 
 . 52 
 
 u 
 
 to West Chazy, 
 
 
 . 57 
 
 a 
 
 to Beekmantown, 
 
 
 . 62 
 
 u 
 
 to Plattsburgh, 
 
 
 . 67 
 
204 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 OTTAWA AND PRESCOTT RAILROAD. 
 
 OTTAWA TO PRESCOTT. 
 
 Ottawa to Gloucester, 
 
 to N. Osgoode, 
 
 to Kelly’s, 
 
 to Osgoode, • 
 
 to Kemptville, 
 
 to Oxford, 
 
 to Spencerville, 
 
 << to Prescott, 
 
 CHAMPLAIN & ST. LAWRENCE RAILROAD. 
 
 MONTREAL TO ROUSE’s POINT. 
 
 Montreal to St. Lambert, 1 
 
 to Junction, 1 1 
 
 to L’Acadie, I^ 
 
 to St. Johns, 21 
 
 (( to Grand Ligne, 27 
 
 to Stott’s, ^ 34 
 
 to Lacolle, ^ 38 
 
 to Rouse’s Point, 44 
 
 NORTHERN (OGDENSBURGH) RAILROAD. 
 
 rouse’s point to OGDENSBURGH. 
 
 Rouse’s Point to Champlain, 4 
 
 to Mooer’s, 12 
 
 << to Centerville, 15 
 
 to Chazy, 23 
 
 to Ellenbergh, 29 
 
 « to Summit, 37 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 205 
 
 rouse’s point to OGDENSBURGH — CONTINUED. 
 
 Rouse’s Point to Chateauguay, 
 
 45 
 
 u 
 
 to Malone, 
 
 57 
 
 u 
 
 to Bangor, 
 
 63 
 
 u 
 
 to Brush’s, 
 
 68 
 
 •u 
 
 to Moira, 
 
 ‘ 71 
 
 u 
 
 to Lawrence, 
 
 77 
 
 u 
 
 to Stockholm, 
 
 
 i< 
 
 to Knapp's, 
 
 • . 85 
 
 u 
 
 to Potsdam, 
 
 93 
 
 u 
 
 to Madrid, 
 
 101 
 
 a 
 
 to Lisbon, 
 
 109 
 
 4t 
 
 to Ogdensburgh, 
 
 118 
 
 THE END. 
 
 tfOMTRXAZ.: H. RAMS AT. 
 
m 
 
 W - ,r « 4 * . • * - ; 1'-^. ■ ^ ■ ■ 
 
 V^ 
 
 r:> ^:i 
 
 •. 
 
 ,..; .,’,,, Cl ' ** .■ 
 
 ^3^nx;V:;J, Ui 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 207 
 
 Canada Life Assurance Company. 
 
 SUBSCRIBED CAPITAL, £250,000 
 
 Head Office, Hamilton, C, W, ; with Agencies throughout 
 the Province, 
 
 Assurances are granted of ordinary or special kinds : for 
 life, with or without Profits ; Endowments ; on Joint Lives ; 
 Half-Credit ; and for limited terms. Annuities, immediate, 
 deferred, and reversionary. 
 
 The rales are lower than those of the majority of offices, 
 yet safer, because carrying a larger margin for contingen- 
 cies. /Thus, on the ordinary whole -life scale, while one 
 British office doing business in the Province charges £2 9s 
 3d per cent, at age 30, and another £2 10s 8d, the Canada 
 Company charges only £2 4s 6d ; and yet with so large a 
 difference in favor oi this Company, the low premium of 
 £2 4s 6d is really safer than either of those with which it 
 iis compared. The fact that a higher rate of interest is avail- 
 able in Canada than can be obtained in the Parent country, 
 affords an explanation of this seeming paradox. It may 
 further be stated that the rate of interest actually realized by 
 this Company on its investments is considerably greater 
 than that on which all its calculations have ‘been predicated. 
 
 A steady growth of business affords an indication of ad- 
 vancing public confidence. The income from premiums 
 and interest increases rapidly from year to year ; arid the 
 increase of the accumulated assurance fund — a gwd criterion 
 of prosperity in life assurance — has been and is in a ratio 
 fully equal to the advance of income and liabilities. A 
 comparison of the proportion of this fund to the duration of 
 the institution and the extent of its business, with the pro- 
 portion exhibited by other and older offices, will result 
 largely to the credit of this Company. 
 
 the last year’s dividend of profit awarded to assured in 
 the Mutual Branch of more than one year’s standing was 
 equivalent to 15 per cent, upon the gross premiums received 
 in the year. 
 
208 
 
 advertisements. 
 
 CANADA LIFE ASSURANCE COMAANY. 
 
 Money received at interest or for accumulation at 5 or 6 
 per cent. — The rate varying with the duration of the deposit 
 and the notice to be given prior to withdrawal. The atten- 
 tion of capitalists, large or small, is directed to this branch 
 of business, offering as it does facilities greater than can be 
 afforded by Banks or Savings’ Banks. 
 
 Detailed information and all requisite papers may be 
 obtained on application to THOMAS M. SIMONS, Secre- 
 tary, Hamilton, C.W. ; Messrs. RAE & MITCHELL, Mon- 
 treal ; or to any of the Company’s Agents. 
 
 THE CCLCHIAl 
 
 FIRE ASSURANCE COMPANY, 
 
 CAPITAL £1,000,000 STERLING. 
 
 GOVERNOR, 
 
 The Right Hon. the Earl of ELGIN and KINCARDINE. 
 
 HEAD OFFICE :--ED|NBURGH. 
 
 67, Great St, James Street, Montreal, 
 
 BOARD OF DIRECTORS : 
 
 The Hon. PETER McGILL, Chairman. 
 
 Hon. Justice McCORD. I B. H. LEMOINE, Esq. 
 
 Hon. A. N. MORIN. J. OGILVY MOFFATT, Esq. 
 HENRY STARNES, Esq. 
 
 A. DAVIDSON PARKER, Manager. 
 
 European rates of Premium charged for residence m 
 British North America, and in the United States to ‘the north- 
 ward of the Southern boundaries of the States of Virginia 
 and Kentucky, eastward of 100^ West longitude. 
 
 Moderate rates of Premium are charged for the East and 
 West Indies, and other places abroad. 
 
 NEW BRUNSWICK : 
 
 DUNCAN ROBERTSON, General Agent. 
 
 NOVA SCOTIA : 
 
 M. H. RICHEY, General Agent. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 209 
 
 A. H. ARMOUR & GO., 
 
 Booksellers, Stationers, Print Sellers and 
 Bookbinders. 
 
 Travellers visiting Toronto, can be supplied on the 
 best terms with GUIDE BOOKS, MAPS, &c., — also, with 
 handsome editions of the best authors, together with Church 
 Services, Prayer Books, Bibles, &c. In the Collection of 
 PICTURES there is a very large assortment of framed and 
 unframed Engravings, Coloured Lithographs, &c., at prices 
 much under those charged in the United States. 
 
 Fine ENGLISH PAPER and STATIONERY of all kinds. 
 
 Books imported to order from Europe and the United 
 States. 
 
 PAPER WAREHOISE, 
 
 (WHOLESALE.) 
 
 St. Francois Xavier Street, Montreal. 
 
 Papery Account Books, Stationery, 
 
 Has always on hand an ample stock of all kinds of plain 
 and mled Writmg Papers, also Draunng Papers, Drawing 
 Boards of all sizes, and Artists’ and Engineers’ materials, 
 in great variety. He has likewise on hand, or makes to 
 order in a*hy style of ruling and binding Ledgers, Journals, 
 Day Books, and other Mercantile Account Books. 
 
 School Requisites. 
 
 H. R. begs to draw attention to his stock of Globes, Out- 
 lined Maps for School Rooms, cheap Atlasses, Copy Books, 
 Slates, Mathematical Instruments, &c., which will be found 
 good in quality and reasonable in price* 
 
^10 
 
 ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 Miscellaneous Stationery. 
 
 Wax, Wafers, Ink, Quills, Steel Pens, Penknives, Music 
 and Drawing Books, and every article in the line. 
 
 Printing. 
 
 Books,Pamphlets,&c^, executed with neatness and despatch. 
 
 Book-binding. 
 
 Carried on in all its branches. 
 
 Montreal. H. EAMSAY. 
 
 PRIZE SCHOOL BOOKS. 
 
 The Subscriber obtained Diplomas at the Provincial 
 Exhibitions, held at Montreal and Hamilton, in 1853, For 
 the best collection of School Books printed and bound in 
 Canada.” 
 
 National Series : 
 
 General Lessons, to be hung 
 up in Schools. 
 
 First Book of Lessons. 
 Second Book of Lessons. 
 Sequel to the Second Book. 
 Third Book of Lessons. 
 Fourth Book of Lessons. 
 
 Fifth Book of Lessons. 
 
 First Book of Arithmetic and 
 Key. 
 
 English Grammar and Key. 
 
 Book-keeping and Key. 
 
 Treatise on Mensuration. 
 
 Appendix to Mensuration, 
 for 'the use of Teachers. 
 
 Elements of Geometry. 
 
 Introduction to Geography 
 and History, with Maps, 
 Plates, &c., new edition, 
 much improved. 
 
 Large Coloured Maps for School Rooms. 
 
 At the same Pravincial Exhibition the Subscriber obtained 
 Diplomas for the best Collection of Books, Maps, &c., pub- 
 lished in Canada, illustrative of its Geography, Topography, 
 History, &c. Among others — 
 
 The History of Canada, a Useful and Compendious History 
 of the Province from its settlement to the present time. 
 2s or 40 cts. 
 
 Histoire du Canada, the same work in French. Same price. 
 The Map of Canada, beautifully delineated, shewing its 
 Railways, Canals, &c., with Vignettes of the Siege of 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 211 
 
 Quebec in 1759, Cities of the Province and Island of 
 Montreal. In pocket form 2s 6d or 50 cts. 
 
 The Canadian Tourist, a Complete Guide to the Province. 
 5s or $1. 
 
 Guide to Montrefal vsrith a Map of the'City. Is lOd J or 37^ cts. 
 Guide to Quebec, with a Map of the City. Is lOd^ or 37^ cts. 
 Guide from Mwilreal, by the Grand Trunk Railway, from 
 Montreal to Richmond, and from Richmond to Quebec 
 and Portland,witha Map of the Road. Is lOd^or 37^ cts. 
 
 Curriculum Latihum : 
 
 Cornelius Nepos. 
 Virgil ii Georgica. 
 Cicero de Amicitia. 
 Cicero de Senectute. 
 Ovidii Fasti. 
 
 Ca?sar de Bello Gallico. 
 
 Q. Curtius. 
 
 Taciti Agricola. 
 
 Horatii Carmina. 
 
 Price 73 d fo Is 3d eacb 
 
 Cheap School Books, 
 
 The Canadian Primer. 
 Manson’s Primer. 
 
 Mavor’s Spslling Book. 
 Carpenter’s Spelling Book. 
 Webster’s Spelling Book. 
 Walker’s Dictionary. 
 Lennie’s Grammar. 
 Murray’s English Reader. 
 Murray’s Large English 
 Grammar. 
 
 Murray’s Small ditto. 
 Walkingame’s Arithmetic. 
 The History of Canada. 
 
 Do. in French. 
 
 History of England. 
 
 The History of Rome. 
 Geography of Canada. 
 Quarter Dollar Atlas. 
 Scripture Atlas. 
 
 Catechisms, ^c. 
 
 The Shorter Catechism, with and without Proofs. 
 
 The mother’s Catechism, containing common things neces- 
 sary to be known at an early age. 
 
 The Second Catechism, being a Sequel to the First. 
 
 The Child’s own Prayer Book. 
 
 Catechism of Geography. 
 
 Catechism for the Instruction of Communicants of the Lord’s 
 Supper, by the late Dr. Andrew Thomson. 
 
 H, RAMSAY. 
 
 Montreal. 
 
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