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MODERN 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY 
 
 AND 
 
 USEFUL RECEIPT BOOK. 
 
 ADAPTED FOR FAMILIES. 
 
 BY 
 
 W. A. HENDERSON. 
 
 BY 
 
 D. HUGHSON, M. D. 
 
 WITH 
 
 SPECIFICATIONS OF APPROVED PATENT RECEIPTS, 
 
 EXTRACTED FROM THE 
 
 RECORDS OF THE PATENT OFFICE, LONDON, 
 
 CONSISTING OF ALL THE MOST SERVICEABLE PREPARATIONS FOR 
 
 DOMESTIC PURPOSES, 
 
 FORMING 
 
 A LIBRARY OF DOMESTIC KNOWLEDGE AND USEFUL ECONOMY 
 
 BOSTON: 
 
 ISAAC TOMPKINS. 
 
 9 CORNHILL. 
 
 1845 
 
ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 As there is scarce an individual who is not aware 
 of the comfort resulting from a regular and cleanly 
 meal, it may appear to many labour lost, to write a 
 preface to a work which is designed to teach us how 
 to prepare such a repast. 
 
 But, in the daily progress of life, we may often dis- 
 cover an amiable and accomplished woman, who pos- 
 sesses a general knowledge, with the exception of 
 domestic cookery, which, I must be suffered to remark, 
 is a subject of infinitely greater importance to her than 
 superficial acquirements, whether we consider her as 
 a daughter, wife, or mother. Indeed, she can never 
 be properly the mistress of a family, unless she makes 
 herself acquainted with its interior economy. 
 
 Exclusive of the necessity of such knowledge, it is 
 surprising, how much such a woman, possessed of it, 
 may save in the yearly expenditure of her family, 
 which, in the present times, is an object of material 
 importance to all persons of moderate incomes, for 
 whom this book is peculiarly adapted, combining eco- 
 nomy and gentility in its receipts and directions. 
 
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GENERAL DIRECTIONS 
 
 FOR THE 
 
 MANAGEMENT OF A FAMILY. 
 
 All persons should endeavour to discharge the duties of the sta- 
 tion they may fill, so as to claim the respect of their compeers ; and 
 afford a beneficial example to the younger branches of society : to 
 such as are desirous of respect, this mode of conduct is a matter of 
 necessity, the neglect of which no excuse can extenuate. 
 
 The accomplishments proper for the female character, are not so 
 seriously attended to as formerly, when all persons, whatever might 
 be their rank, were studious to render themselves useful. Yet do- 
 mestic occupations should never for one moment be neglected, as 
 such neglect must produce misery, and may, perhaps, ultimately ter- 
 minate in ruin. At no very distant period, ladies knew but little be- 
 yond their own family concerns ; now, alas ! there are few things 
 of which they know so little. Viewed either way, this is running into 
 extremes, which should be carefully avoided, because elegant ac- 
 quirements may, with some little care, be easily united with useful 
 knowledge, and without which they become ridiculous. That this 
 may be done, we have numerous examples, even in the most ele- 
 vated ranks of society, in which the mistress of a family, possessed of 
 every possible feminine accomplishment, may be frequently seen 
 superintending her family arrangements, investigating her accounts, 
 instructing her servants, and keeping within the bounds of her hus- 
 band’s income ; by such means, reflecting credit on him, as well as 
 herself. 
 
 If such minute attention to domestic concerns reflects honour upon 
 females of elevated rank, at the same time that it is useful to them, 
 how much more therefore must it be beneficial to such as possess 
 contracted incomes, and who can only support an elegant, nay even a 
 neat appearance, by exerting the most rigid economy, and attentive- 
 ly directing their efforts to the proper management of their domestic 
 
 affairs. 
 
 Females should be early taught to prefer the society of their homes, 
 to engage themselves in domestic duties, and to avoid every species 
 of idle vanity, to which thousands of them owe their ruin ; and, above 
 ail things, to consider their parents as their best friends, who are in- 
 terested only in their welfare ; then indeed we might hope to see all 
 
6 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR 
 
 as it should be, and to have daily evidence of real comfort and hap- 
 piness. Were females thus instructed, they would soon learn to 
 discriminate between the solid enjoyments of domestic peace, and 
 the fleeting phantoms of delusive pleasure. 
 
 It is natural to imagine, that when a female marries, she does so 
 from a principal of love. It must surely, therefore, be admitted, that 
 her duties then become still more seriously important, because her 
 station is more responsible than it previously was. She will then 
 have to superintend the affairs of the man with whose destiny she has 
 united her own ; the domestic part of which falls particularly within 
 the sphere of her management, and the duties of which she ought 
 actively to execute, and at the same time to support as neat and 
 elegant an appearance as is consistent with prudent economy ; with- 
 out which even princely fortunes must fail ; in which case, her hus- 
 band will soon discover her merits, and place a proper value on the 
 treasure he possesses. 
 
 A person who desires to please, will seldom fail to do so. This 
 conviction should of itself be sufficient to stimulate to the attempt, 
 as domestic knowledge in a female is of more real importance than 
 vain acquirements, not that accomplishments, when properly direct- 
 ed, are incompatible with domestic duties ; on the contrary, they 
 become intimately combined with them, because they add to the ra- 
 tional enjoyments of that home which should ever be the centre of 
 attraction to the husband, to her children, and others connected with 
 it ; and this is what an ignorant, unsocial, and unaccomplished woman 
 can i. ver render it. It is the abuse of things from which alone 
 mischief can originate, not from the temperate use of them. 
 
 The domestic arrangements of a family belonging entirely to the 
 female, the table, of course, becomes ent, ’ed to no small share of 
 her attention in respect to its expenditure, a^ oearance, and general 
 supplies. 
 
 Taste and judgment are highly requisite ii this department, be- 
 cause the credit of keeping a good and respei table table depends 
 not (as of old) on the vast quantity of articles wih which it is cover- 
 ed, but the neatness, propriety, and cleanliness, in which the whole is 
 served up, which alone can confer real credit on her who directs the 
 preparation. 
 
 Dinner parties are very expensive, and certainly fall very heavy on 
 persons whose incomes are moderate ; such persons, therefore, 
 should not support a custom productive of unpleasant consequences, 
 by lending it the sanction of their example. But if it is found requi- 
 site occasionally to give dinners, it should be done in a liberal and 
 genteel manner, otherwise it is far bettei to decline it altogether. 
 
DOMESTIC MANAGEMENT. 7 
 
 Dinners are not so sumptuous now as they formerly were, which 
 may be accounted for from the increased price of provisions ; in con- 
 sequence of which, persons who possess a moderate property are 
 compelled to be as economical as possible, in order to support that 
 genteel appearance necessary for the promotion of comfort. 
 
 Yet a certain degree of caution is requisite in providing even a 
 family dinner, as a casual visiter may unexpectedly enter, whose 
 company cannot be avoided, &nd every man feels his consequence 
 hurt, should such a visiter chance to drop in to a dinner not suffi- 
 ciently good or abundant ; a table should therefore be furnished 
 according to the income and rank of its master ; thus I would not 
 have a tradesman emulate the expenditure and appearance of a noble, 
 nor a noble of royalty. A good plain dinner, of which there should 
 be sufficient, with clean linen and decent attendance, will obviate 
 every difficulty ; and the entrance of an unexpected visiter will occa- 
 sion no additional trouble, and all uneasy sensations on account of 
 the appearance of the dinner, will be banished from the breasts of 
 the master and mistress, by which harmony and enjoyment will of 
 course ensue. 
 
 This mode of providing a table may be extended to every class of 
 society, where each individual should have a table provided according 
 to ,the fortune which must pay for it, and such an arrangement will 
 meet with the respect and approbation of all serious persons. 
 
 Carving also, though seldom attended to, merits attention ; for, 
 without a due knowledge of it, the honours of a table cannot be per- 
 formed with propriety, or without considerable pain. It also makes 
 a great difference in the daily consumption of a family. I therefore 
 recommend my readers to study this useful branch of domestic 
 knowledge, which can be attained only by constant practice, as writ- 
 ten instructions can merely point out the way which practice must 
 render perfect, and without which no person can preside with honour 
 at the head of a table. 
 
 Where there are young persons in a family, it would greatly im- 
 prove them, were they made to take the head of the table, under the 
 superintendence of their parents, by whose salutary directions they 
 would soon discharge the duty thus thrown upon them with equal 
 ease and grace, and learn more in one month’s practical employment, 
 than they would in twelve months’ observation. This would also 
 prepare them to discharge their duties in a proper manner, when they 
 become mistresses themselves. For my own part, lean imagine 
 nothing more disagreeable than to behold a person at the head of a 
 well-furnished table, presiding only to haggle and spoil the finest 
 articles of provision, by which great waste is occasioned, and, wo 
 
8 DIRECTIONS FOR 
 
 may add, some disgust, because many delicate persons, when help- 
 ed in a clumsy manner, absolutely loathe the provisions (however 
 good) thus set before them. 
 
 Every lady who fills the situation of a mistress of a family, will, l 
 am confident, upon mature reflection, be convinced, that much de- 
 pends on the vigilance of her conduct, as far as respects good ma- 
 nagement and domestic economy ; the most trifling events should 
 claim her notice, for the keen eye of a superior can alone restrain 
 servants and dependants within proper bounds, and prevent that 
 waste which would otherwise ensue. This is a line of conduct 
 which the present price of every article of life renders still more im- 
 perative. No female should ever harbour a moment’s doubt re- 
 jecting her power to conduct and manage a family, even if previous- 
 ly unused to it, as many of her senior friends will freely give her 
 their advice, and a short practical experience will soon render her 
 able to estimate the best mode of management, and also teach her 
 how to keep her family expenditure agreeable to her income, and 
 how to lay out her money to the greatest advantage. To execute 
 this in a proper manner, a strict account of the yearly income set 
 apart for domestic expenses, should be carefully taken ; and that it 
 may not be ignorantly exceeded, a minute account of the daily 
 expenditure should be invariably made out, by which a regular habit 
 of prudent economy will be obtained : and should the expenses of 
 one week then exceed their bounds, it must be made up by retrench- 
 ing on those of the following weeks. For where persons depend for 
 their support and comfort on the skill and active exertions of a father, 
 much also depends on the mother, who, should she be a bad ma- 
 nager, will soon undo all that her husband has done ; but should she 
 understand her duties, prosperity will smile upon the family, and 
 perhaps fortune may be ultimately secured. 
 
 To prevent useless trouble in the household accounts, a Family 
 Book-keeper should be purchased, when the sums laid out will only 
 require to be noted down, as the various articles are printed, with a 
 column for every day in the year, by which means the exact expen- 
 diture is always ascertained for any period in a few minutes. 
 
 Persons who possess the means, should always pay for every 
 article in ready money, the benefit of which they will very soon ex- 
 perience ; and tradesmen will be careful to supply such valuable 
 customers with the best of their goods. They are also willing to 
 sell their goods cheaper for money than on credit, consequently, by 
 properly attending to this circumstance, a considerable saving may 
 be made in the course of a year. I would also recommend my rea- 
 ders never to change their trades-people without some serious cause 
 
DOMESTIC .MANAGEMENT. 
 
 9 
 
 of offence, as, after dealing some time with a tradesman, he consi- 
 ders you a valuable customer, obeys your orders with punctual 
 attention, and invariably serves you with the best goods he can 
 procure, with the view of securing your future support, and a recom- 
 mendation of his shop to your friends. 
 
 On the contrary, those tradesmen who give long credit, are obli- 
 ged to charge a proportional interest, without which they could not 
 carry on their business ; and it is this circumstance which contributes 
 in no small degree to keep up the high price of every necessary of 
 life. You will therefore easily perceive that, by having long credit, 
 you will lose money, respect, and comfort. 
 
 A person of moderate income should make every purchase herself, 
 and to do this well, she should make herself acquainted with the best 
 articles, and the relative value of each, by which she will occasion- 
 ally make her pound go as far as many less active and experienced 
 persons would two. Although 1 do not intend by the above to 
 advocate the cause of bargains, which generally in the end prove 
 losses ; on the contrary I recommend whatever may be purchased to 
 be of the best quality, which, you may rely on it, will go farthest. 
 Stated rules cannot be fully given, as rank, fortune, and habit, must 
 determine many points ; however, attentive inspection can be no 
 disgrace even to the most elevated or wealthy. One great advantage 
 resulting from this close attention is, that servants will soon discover 
 that such a mistress must not be trifled with, and will consequently 
 respect, fear, and serve her, better than they otherwise would do. 
 
 Waste of every description should be cautiously avoided; nothing 
 can be more criminal, when we reflect that there are thousands of our 
 fellow-creatures suffering from want, while, by the bounty of Pro- 
 vidence, we have the full enjoyment of every good thing. Waste- 
 fulness, therefore, should never be tolerated in any of the necessaries 
 of life. Every respectable family, by proper attention, may do much 
 good to their poor neighbours, without injury to themselves, by 
 properly preparing the offal of their houses, and distributing it to such 
 as are in want ; this would be affording much actual relief at the 
 expense of little more than trouble. 
 
 Regularity should be punctually observed in all families, as by 
 keeping good hours much time is gained. By breakfasting early the 
 servants have a fair day before them ; and they should, when con- 
 venient, be suffered to retire to rest at an early hour, by which means 
 they will not be late on the following morning. 
 
 This method will also render less servants necessary. I am sen- 
 sible that many of my fair readers may imagine this to be of little 
 consequence, but 1 can assure them that they will ultimately find. 
 No. 1 . B 
 
10 DIRECTIONS FOR, &c. 
 
 that regular and early hours in a family is of serious importance to 
 every branch of it, as far as relates to comfort, and it should be 
 remembered that servants have feelings equally with ourselves. 
 
 It is prudent and economical to have a sufficient quantity of house- 
 hold articles and culinary utensils. The stock should invariably be 
 well kept up, and to do this effectually, requires some consideration. 
 
 The best, and indeed only regular method of doing this, is to keep 
 a correct account of these, as well as different articles of household 
 furniture, linen, plate, china, &c. &c. and the various articles should 
 bi occasionally examined, and every article replaced as soon as 
 broken. 
 
 Much time will also be saved, if every article is kept in its proper 
 place, clean ; and remember every thing should be mended the 
 moment it is injured, and never applied to any other use than that for 
 ivhicli it was originally designed, by which mode of management 
 any thing will last much longer than it otherwise would do. 
 
 What an active person may perform in the course of one year by 
 a punctual attendance to regular hours, and a persevering industry, 
 would, if calculated, astonish a common observer by its extent and 
 utility. In respect to servants, a mistress should be extremely care- 
 ful whom she hires, and be particular in procuring a good character 
 from the persons with whom they have previously resided. It is also 
 the solemn duty of a mistress, to be just in giving a character to 
 such servants as leave her, because a servant’s whole dependance 
 rests entirely on the possession of a good character ; destitute of 
 which, inevitable ruin must follow. This is a duty, the breach of 
 which nothing can extenuate ; for by giving an undeserved bad 
 character to a good servant, through caprice, eternal infamy must be 
 reflected on the person who does so. Faithful, honest servants 
 should be treated with respect and kindness, and when an occasion 
 offers, they should be duly rewarded, which will create emulation in 
 others ; but never more kept than sufficient. 
 
 Should you deal on credit, a book should be kept, in which every 
 article, with its weight and price, should be inserted the instant it is 
 received, which will prevent imposition, and also serve as a reference. 
 
 In a well regulated family, every article should be kept in con- 
 stant readiness, such as broken sugar, pounded spices, &c. by which 
 much trouble will be prevented when such articles are wanted for 
 immediate use. Servants should also be required to pay the same 
 attention in waiting on the family, when alone, as they do when there 
 is company : this will soon become a regular habit, and visiters will 
 occasion but little additional trouble, while every thing will appear to 
 go on smoothly. 
 
THE 
 
 HOUSEKEEPER’S INSTRUCTOR; 
 
 OR, 
 
 UNIVERSAL FAMILY COOK 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 SOUPS and BROTHS. 
 
 A S a proper mode is the first and most judicious 
 step that can be taken in the display of any subject, 
 so we shall commence our work with a particular de- 
 scription of the manner of making all kinds of Soups 
 and Broths, those articles in the Art of Cookery being, 
 at most entertainments, whether of a public or private 
 nature, first brought upon the table. 
 
 To acquire reputation, and give satisfaction to those 
 for whom any kind of provision is dressed, the first 
 grand consideration of the cook should be a particu- 
 lar attachment to cleanliness, and this more immedi- 
 ately in the proper care of all vessels wherein such 
 provision is to be dressed. They must be kept pro- 
 perly tinned, and, as soon as possible after being used, 
 well cleaned, and placed, with their covers on, in 
 some situation adapted for the purpose. Previous to 
 their being again used, examine them very strictly, 
 and be careful that they are totally free from any kind 
 of grease, or any particles of sand, which will be too 
 apt to secrete themselves in unobserved cavities of the 
 vessels. To avoid this, rub the palm of your hand 
 all round, with the ends of your fingers in the cavities, 
 and if any sand is left, it will stick to the flesh, which 
 will naturally draw it out. After this, wipe it all 
 round with a clean cloth, and you may be pretty well 
 satisfied it is thoroughly cleansed for use. The pains 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 12 
 
 you have taken in this first degree of care will be am- 
 ply repaid by the articles you cook being, if properly 
 managed according to the rules here laid down, brought 
 to table in the highest state of perfection. 
 
 As a necessary prelude to the making of soups and 
 broths, we shall introduce a few general observations ; 
 which we recommend as deserving the particular 
 notice and attention of the cook. 
 
 When you make any kinds of soups, more especi- 
 ally portable, vermicelli, or brown gravy soup, or, 
 indeed, any other that hath roots or herbs in it, always 
 observe to lay the meat at the bottom of your pan, 
 with a good lump of butter. Cut the herbs and roots 
 small, lay them over the meat, cover it close, and set 
 it over a slow fire : this will draw all the virtue out of 
 the roots or herbs, turn it to a good gravy, and give 
 the soup a different flavour from what it would have 
 on putting the water in at first. As soon as you find 
 the gravy is nearly dried up, then fill the saucepan 
 with water, and when it begins to boil skim off the fat, 
 and pursue the directions given for the soup intended 
 to be made. In making peas soup observe, that if 
 they are old, you must use soft water; but if green, 
 hard or spring water, as it will greatly contribute to 
 the preservation of their colour. One principal thing 
 to be observed in making all kinds of soup is, that no 
 one ingredient is more powerful in the taste than an- 
 other, but that all are as nearly as possible equal, and 
 that the soup be relished in proportion to the purpose 
 for which it is designed. 
 
 Vermicelli Soup. 
 
 Take a knuckle of veal and a scrag of mutton, from 
 each of which cut the flesh into small pieces about the 
 size of walnuts, and mix them together, with five or 
 six thin slices of lean ham. Put into the bottom of 
 your pan about four ounces of butter, and then your 
 meat; to which add three or four blades of mace, two 
 or three carrots, two parsnips, two large onions, with 
 a clove stuck on both sides of each, cut in four or five 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 13 
 
 heads of celery washed clean, a bunch of sweet herbs, 
 eight or ten morels, and an anchovy. When your 
 articles are thus prepared and mixed together in the 
 pan, cover it very close, and set it over a slow fire, 
 without any water, till the gravy is drawn out of the 
 meat. When this is done, pour it out into a pot or 
 large basin; then let the meat brown, (taking care that 
 it does not burn,) and put into the saucepan four quarts 
 of water. Let the whole boil gently till it is wasted 
 to three pints, then strain it, and mix with it the first 
 gravy drawn from the meat. Set it on the fire, and 
 add two ounces of vermicelli, a nice head of celery cut 
 small, chyan pepper and salt to your taste, and let the 
 whole boil about six minutes. Lay a small French 
 roll in the soup dish, pour the soup upon it, strew 
 some of the vermicelli on the surface, and then serve 
 it to table. 
 
 Vermicelli Soup White. 
 
 Wash your vermicelli in boiling water, and leave 
 it to drain on a sieve that it may not lump : boil it with 
 some good gravy soup ; and the moment before serving 
 it up, put in a cullis a-la-reine, or the yolks of some 
 eggs beat up with cream or milk. It must not boil 
 after the eggs are in, or else it will curdle. 
 
 Soup a-la-Reine. 
 
 Take a knuckle of veal, and three or four pounds 
 of lean beef, to which put in six quarts of water, with 
 a little salt. When it boils take off the scum quite 
 clean, then put in six large onions, two carrots, a head 
 or two of celery, a parsnip, one leek, and a little thyme. 
 Let the whole stew together till the meat is quite 
 boiled down, then strain it through a hair sieve, and 
 after it has stood about half an hour, skim it w ell, and 
 clear it off gently from the settlings into a clean pan. 
 Boil half a pint of cream, and pour it on the crumb of 
 a small loaf till the whole is soaked in. Take half a 
 pound of almonds, blanch and beat them as fine as 
 possible, putting in now and then a little cream to pre- 
 vent them from oiling. Then take the yolks of six 
 
14 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 hard eggs, beat them with a loaf soaked in the cream, 
 and mix the whole together. Put your broth in again 
 into the saucepan, and when hot pour it to your al- 
 monds. Strain it through a fine hair sieve, rubbing it 
 with a spoon till all the virtue and flavour are extracted. 
 Put the whole into the saucepan, adding a little more 
 cream to make it white. Set it over the fire, keep 
 stirring it till it boils, and skim off the froth as it rises. 
 In the meantime soak the tops of two French rolls in 
 melted butter in a stew-pan till they are crisp, but not 
 brown ; then take them out of the butter, and lay them 
 in a plate before the fire. After remaining there a short 
 time put them at the bottom of the tureen, pouring to 
 them a small quantity of the soup. When your soup 
 has been thoroughly skimmed from froth, and is just 
 ready to boil, then take it off, pour it into the tureen, 
 and serve it hot to table. In making this soup, par- 
 ticular care must be taken that no fat be on the surface 
 of the broth at the time it is poured upon the almonds, 
 otherwise the whole will be spoiled. 
 
 Soup Cressy. 
 
 Cut a pound of lean ham into small bits, and put 
 at the bottom of a stew-pan, with a French roll cut in 
 slices, and laid on the top. Take two dozen heads of 
 celery cut small, six onions, two turnips, one carrot, 
 six cloves, four blades of mace, and two bunches of 
 water cresses. Put them all in a stew-pan, with a 
 pint of good broth. Cover them close, and let them 
 sweat gently for about twenty minutes, after which fill 
 it up with veal broth, and stew it four hours. When 
 this is done, strain it through a fine sieve or cloth, and 
 put it again into the saucepan, seasoning it with salt 
 and a little chyan pepper. As soon as it is simmered 
 op, pour it into the tureen, putting in some French roll 
 toasted hard. 
 
 Transparent Soup. 
 
 Cut off the meat from a leg of veal as clean as you 
 can, after which break the bone in small pieces. Put 
 the meat into a large jug, with the bones at top, and 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 15 
 
 add to it a bunch of sweet herbs, a quarter of an ounce 
 of mace, half a pound of blanched almonds, and pour 
 in four quarts of boiling water. Set it over a slow fire, 
 close covered, and let it stand all night. The next 
 day take it out of the jug, put it into a clean saucepan, 
 and let it boil slowly till it is reduced to two quarts. 
 During the time it boils be particularly careful to take 
 off all the scum and fat. Strain it into a large bowl, 
 and when you think the meat is perfectly settled at the 
 bottom, so that no sediment can intermix with the 
 soup, put it into a clean saucepan, and intermix it with 
 three or four ounces of boiled rice, or two ounces of 
 vermicelli, which you like best. When it has boiled 
 about a quarter of an hour, pour it into the tureen, and 
 serve it to table. 
 
 Almond Soup. 
 
 Take a quart of almonds, and beat them in a marble 
 mortar, with the yolks of six hard eggs, till they be- 
 come a fine paste. Mix them by degrees with two 
 quarts of new milk, a quart of cream, and a quarter of 
 a pound of double refined sugar, beat fine, and stir the 
 whole well together. When it is properly mixed, set 
 it over a slow fire, and keep it stirring quick till you 
 find it of a good thickness : then take it off, pour it into 
 your dish, and serve it up. The principal care to be 
 observed in making this soup is to prevent its curdling, 
 which can only be done by keeping it constantly stir- 
 ring till it boils. 
 
 Soup Sante, or Gravy Soup. 
 
 Take a pound and a half of lean ham cut in slices, 
 and put them in the bottom of the stew-pan, with 
 about two ounces of butter under them. Over the 
 ham, put three ounces of lean beef, and over the beef 
 the same quantity of veal. Put in six onions cut in 
 slices, two carrots, and two turnips sliced, two heads 
 of celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, six cloves, and two 
 blades of mace. Let there be a little water at the 
 bottom, and when you have gently drawn it till it 
 sticks, put in a gallon of boiling water. Let it stew 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 16 
 
 gently for two hours ; season with salt and chyan pep- 
 per, and strain it clear off. Having ready a carrot cut 
 in thin pieces about two inches in length, a turnip, two 
 heads of leeks, two of celery, two of endive cut across, 
 two cabbage lettuces uut in the same manner, with a 
 little sorrel and chervil. Put these into a stew-pan, 
 and sweat them over the fire for about fifteen minutes ; 
 then put them into your soup. Set the whole over 
 the fire, and let it boil gently about a quarter of ail 
 hour ; then pour it into your tureen, with the crust of 
 a French roll on the top, and send it to table. 
 
 Soup and Bouille. 
 
 Take about five pounds of brisket of beef, roll it up 
 as tight as you can, and fasten it with a piece of tape. 
 Put it into the stew-pan, wdth four pounds of the leg 
 of mutton piece of beef, and about two gallons of w ater. 
 When it boils, take off the scum quite clean, and put 
 in one large onion, two or three carrots, two turnips, a 
 leek, tw o heads of celery, six or seven cloves, and some 
 whole pepper. Stew the whole very gently, close 
 covered, for six or seven hours. About an hour be- 
 fore dinner strain the soup quite clear from the meat. 
 Have ready boiled carrots cut into small pieces with a 
 carrot cutter, turnips cut in balls, spinach, a little 
 chervil and sorrel, two heads of endive, and one or two 
 of celery cut into pieces. Put these into a tureen, 
 with a F rench roll dried after the crumb is taken out. 
 Pour the soup to these boiling hot, and add a little salt 
 and chyan pepper. Take the tape from the beef, or 
 bouille, and place it in a dish by itself, with mashed 
 turnips and sliced carrots, each in a separate small 
 dish, and in this manner serve up the whole. 
 
 Ox Cheek Soup. 
 
 Break the bones of the cheek, and after having 
 washed it thoroughly clean, put it into a large stew- 
 pan, with about two ounces of butter at the bottom, 
 and lay the fleshy side of the cheek downwards. Add 
 to it about half a pound of lean ham, cut in slices. 
 
roups. 
 
 17 
 
 Put in four heads of celery cut small, three large onions, 
 two carrots, one parsnip sliced, and tliree blades of 
 mace. Set it over a moderate fire for about a quarter of 
 an hour, when the virtues of the roots will be extracted ; 
 after which put to it four quarts of water, and let it 
 simmer gently till it is reduced to two. If you mean 
 to use it as soup only, strain it clear off, and put in the 
 white part of a head of celery cut in small pieces, with 
 a little browning to make it a fine colour. Scald two 
 ounces of vermicelli, and put into the soup, then let it 
 boil for about ten minutes, and pour it into your tureen, 
 with the crust of a French roll, and serve it up. If it 
 is to be used as a stew, take up the cheek as whole as 
 possible, and have ready a boiled turnip and carrot cut 
 in square pieces, a slice of bread toasted, and cut in 
 small dices, put in a little chyan pepper, strain the soup 
 through a hair sieve upon the whole, and carry it to 
 table. 
 
 Macaroni Soup. 
 
 Mix together three quarts of strong broth with one 
 of gravy. Take half a pound of small pipe macaroni, 
 and boil it in three quarts of water, with a little butter 
 in it, till it is tender, after w T hich strain it through a 
 sieve. Cut it in pieces of about two inches in length, 
 and put it into your soup, and boil it up for about ten 
 minutes. Send it to table in a tureen, with the crust 
 of a French roll toasted. 
 
 Calf’s Head Soup. 
 
 Wash the head as clean as possible, which you will 
 the more easily do by strewing a little salt on it to 
 take out the slime. After it is thoroughly cleansed, 
 put it into your stew-pan, with a proper quantity of 
 water, and throw in a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion 
 stuck with cloves, five or six blades of mace, and some 
 pearl barley. When it has stewed till it is tender, put 
 in some stewed celery. Season it with pepper, pour 
 the soup into your dish, place the head in the middle, 
 and serve it to table. 
 
 !No. 1. 
 
 C 
 
13 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 Peas Soup in the Common Way. 
 
 Put a quart of split peas into four quarts of water, 
 with some beef bones, or a bttle lean bacon. Add one 
 head of celery cut small, with three or four turnips. 
 Let it boil gently till it is reduced to two quarts, and 
 then work it through a fine sieve with a wooden spoon. 
 Mix a little flour and water well together, and boil 
 them in the soup. Add another head of celery, with 
 chyan pepper and salt to your taste. Cut a slice of bread 
 in dice, fry them a light brown, and put them into your 
 dish; after which pour in the soup, and serve it up. 
 
 White Peas Soup. 
 
 Take four or five pounds of lean beef, and put it 
 into six quarts of water with a little salt. When it 
 boils skim it clean, and put in two carrots, three whole 
 onions, a little thyme, and two heads of celery. When 
 you have done this, put in three quarts of peas, and 
 boil them with the meat till the latter is quite tender : 
 then strain the soup through a hair sieve, at the same 
 time rubbing the pulp of the peas so as to extract all 
 their virtue. Split three coss lettuces into four quarters 
 each, and cut them about four inches in length, with a 
 little mint shredded small : then put half a pound of 
 butter in a stew-pan that will hold your soup, and put 
 the lettuce and mint into the butter, with a leek sliced 
 very thin. Stew them a quarter of an hour, shaking 
 them about often ; and after adding a little of the soup, 
 stew them a quarter of an hour longer : then put in 
 your soup, and as much thick cream as will make it 
 white : keep stirring it till it boils, fry a French roll in 
 butter a little crisp, put it in the bottom of the tureen, 
 pour the soup over, and serve it up. 
 
 Green Peas Soup. 
 
 Cut a knuckle of veal into thin slices, with one 
 pound of lean ham. Lay them at the bottom of a 
 soup-pot with the veal uppermost. Then put in six 
 onions cut in slices, with two or three turnips, two 
 carrots, three heads of celery cut very small, a little 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 19 
 
 thyme, four cloves, and four blades of mace. Put a 
 little water at the bottom, cover the pot close, and 
 draw it gently, taking particular care the meat does 
 not stick to the pot. When it is properly drawn, put 
 in six quarts of boiling water, and let it stew gently 
 four hours, skimming it well during the time. Take 
 two quarts of peas, and stew them in some of the 
 liquor till tender ; then strain them off and beat them 
 fine, put the liquor in, and mix them up. Take a 
 tammy, or fine cloth, and rub them through till you 
 have rubbed all the pulp out, and then put your soup 
 in a clean pot, with half a pint of spinach juice, and 
 boil it up for about a quarter of an hour : season with 
 salt and a little pepper. If you think your soup not 
 thick enough, take the crumb of a French roll, and 
 boil it in a little of the soup, beat it in a mortar, and 
 mb it through your tammy, or cloth, then put it into 
 your soup, and boil it up. Pour the soup into the 
 tureen, with half apint of young peas and mint, stewed 
 m fresh butter ; then serve it up. 
 
 Onion Soup. 
 
 Take eight or ten large Spanish onions, and boil 
 them in milk and water till they become quite soft, 
 changing your milk and water three times while the 
 onions are boiling. When they are quite soft rub them 
 through a hair sieve. Cut an old fowl into pieces, and 
 boil it for gravy, with one blade of mace. Then strain 
 it, and having poured the gravy on the pulp of the 
 onions, boil it gently, with the crumb of a stale penny 
 loaf grated into half a pint of cream, and season it to 
 your taste with salt and ehyan pepper. When you 
 serve it up, grate a crust of brown bread round the 
 edge of the dish. It will contribute much to the deli- 
 cacy of the flavour, if you add a little stewed spinach, 
 or a few heads of asparagus. 
 
 Milk Soup. 
 
 Boil a pint of milk with a little salt, and if you 
 please sugar; arrange some sliced bread in a dish, pour 
 
20 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 over part of your milk to soak it, and keep it hot upo n 
 your stove, taking care that it does not burn. When 
 you are ready to serve your soup, beat up the yolks 
 of five or six eggs, and add them to the rest of the 
 milk. Stir it over the fire till it thickens, and then 
 take it off for fear it should curdle. 
 
 Milk Soup. Another Way. 
 
 Take two quarts of new milk, and put into it two 
 sticks of cinnamon, two bay leaves, a small quantity 
 of basket salt, and a little sugar. While these are 
 heating, blanch half a pound of sweet almonds, and 
 beat them up to a paste in a marble mortar. Mix some 
 milk with them by a little at a time, and while they 
 are heating, grate some lemon-peel with the almonds, 
 and a little of the juice ; after which strain it through 
 a coarse sieve ; mix all together, and let it boil up. 
 Cut some slices of French bread, and dry them before 
 the fire ; soak them a little in the milk, lav them at the 
 bottom of the tureen, pour in the soup, and serve it up. 
 
 Milk Soup, with Onions. 
 
 Take a dozen of onions, and set them over a stove 
 till they are done without being coloured. Then boil 
 some milk, add to it the onions, and season it with salt 
 alone. Put some button onions to scald, then pass 
 them in butter, and when tender add it to the soup, 
 and serve it up. 
 
 Rice Soup. 
 
 Put a pound of rice and a little cinnamon into two 
 quarts of water. Cover it close, and let it simmer 
 very gently till the rice is quite tender. Take out the 
 cinnamon, then sweeten it to your palate ; grate into it 
 half a nutmeg, and let it stand till it is cold. Then 
 beat up the yolks of three eggs, with half a pint of 
 white wine ; mix them well together, and stir them 
 into the rice. Set the whole over a slow fire, and keep 
 stirring it all the time, lest it should curdle. When it 
 is of a good thickness, and boils, take it up, and keep 
 stirring it till you pour it into your dish. 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 21 
 
 Rice Soup , or Potage du Ris. 
 
 Take a handful of rice, or more, according to the 
 quantity of soup yon make; wash it well in warm wa- 
 ter, rubbing it in your hands, and let it stand two hours 
 and a half or three hours over a slow fire, with good 
 beef and veal gravy : when it is done, season it to your 
 palate, and serve it up. 
 
 Scotch Barley Broth. 
 
 Take a leg of beef cut into pieces, and boil it in 
 -three gallons of water, with a sliced carrot and a crust 
 of bread. Let it continue boiling till reduced to one 
 half Then strain it off, and put it again into the pot, 
 with half a pound of barley, four or five heads of celery 
 ; cut small, a bunch of sweet herbs, a large onion, a little 
 parsley chopped small, and a few marigolds. When 
 this has been boiled an hour, put in a large fowl, and 
 Jet it continue boiling till the broth is quite good. Sea- 
 son it with salt to your taste, take out the onion and 
 sweet herbs, and send it to table with the fowl in the 
 middle. The fowl may be used or omitted, according 
 to your own discretion, as the broth will be exceeding 
 good without it. 
 
 Instead of a leg of beef, some make this broth with 
 a sheep’s head, which must be chopped all to pieces. 
 Others use thick flank of beef, in which case six pounds 
 must be boiled in six quarts of water. Put in the 
 barley with the meat, and boil it very gently for an 
 hour, keeping it clear from scum. Then put in the 
 before -mentioned ingredients, with turnips and carrots 
 clean scraped and pared, and cut into small pieces. 
 Boil all together softly till you find the broth very good, 
 and season it to your palate. Then take it up, pour 
 the broth into your dish or tureen, put the beef in the 
 middle, with carrots and turnips round the dish, and 
 send it hot to table. This is a very comfortable repast, 
 more particularly in cold and severe weather. 
 
 Soup Lorraine. 
 
 Ta ke a pound of almonds, blanch them, and beat 
 them in a fine mortar, with a very little water to keep 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 22 
 
 them from oiling. Then take all the white part of a 
 large roasted fowl, with the yolks of four poached eggs, 
 and pound all together as fine as possible. Take three 
 quarts of strong veal broth, let it be very white, and 
 all the fat clean skimmed off. Pour it into a stew T -pan 
 with the other ingredients, and mix them well together. 
 Boil them gently over a slow fire, and mince the white 
 part of another fowl very fine. Season it with pepper, 
 salt, nutmeg, and a little beaten mace. Put in a bit 
 of butter about the size of an egg, with a spoonful or 
 two of the soup strained, and set it over the fire to be 
 quite hot. Cut two French rolls into thin slices, and 
 set them before the fire to crisp. Then take one of the 
 hollow loaves which are made for oysters, and fill it 
 with the minced fowl : close the roll as neat as possible, 
 and keep it hot. Strain the soup through a very fine 
 sieve into a clean saucepan, and let it stew till it is of 
 the thickness of cream. Put the crisped bread into 
 the dish or tureen, pom* the soup over it, place the roll 
 with the minced meat in the middle, and serve it up. 
 
 Soup Maigre. 
 
 Put half a pound of butter into a deep stew-pan, 
 shake it about, and let it stand till it has done making 
 a noise ; then throw in six middle-sized onions, peeled 
 and cut small, and shake them about. Take a bunch 
 of celery, clean washed and picked, cut it into pieces 
 about half an inch in length; a large handful of spinach 
 clean washed and picked, a good" lettuce (if it can be 
 got) cut small, and a bundle of parsley chopped fine. 
 Shake all these well together in the pan for a quarter of 
 an hour, and then strew in a little flour : stir all together 
 in the stew-pan, and put in two quarts of water. 
 Throw in a handful of hard dry crust, with about a 
 quarter of an ounce of ground pepper, and three blades 
 of mace beat fine. Stir all together, and let it boil 
 gently for about half an hour : then take it off, beat no 
 the yolks of two eggs, and stir them in with one spoon- 
 ful of vinegar. Pom' the whole into a soup dish, and 
 send it to table. If the season of the year w ill admit, 
 
sours. 
 
 23 
 
 a pint of green peas boiled in the soup will be a mate- 
 rial addition. 
 
 Giblet Soujj. 
 
 Take four pounds of gravy-beef, two pounds of a 
 scrag of mutton, and two pounds of a scrag of veal. Put 
 these into a saucepan with two gallons of water, and 
 let them stew very gently till the broth begins to have 
 a good taste. Then pour it out, let it stand till it is 
 cold, and skim off all the fat. Take two pair of giblets 
 well scalded and cleaned, put them into the broth, and 
 let them simmer till they are very tender. Take out 
 the giblets, and strain the soup through a cloth. Put 
 a piece of butter rolled in flour into your stew-pan, and 
 make it of a light brown. Have ready, chopped small, 
 some parsley, chives, a little penny-royal, and a small 
 quantity of sweet marjoram. Place the soup over a 
 very slow fire ; put in the giblets, fried butter, herbs, 
 a little Madeira wine, some salt, and chyan pepper. 
 Let them simmer till the herbs are tender, and then 
 send the soup to table with the giblets intermixed. 
 
 Hodge Podge. 
 
 Take a pound of beef, a pound of veal, and a 
 pound of scrag of mutton. Cut the beef into small 
 pieces, and put the whole into a saucepan, with two 
 quarts of water. Take an ounce of barley, an onion, 
 a small bundle of sweet herbs, three or four heads of 
 celery washed clean and cut small, a little mace, two 
 or three cloves, and some whole pepper, tied all in a 
 piece of cloth ; and throw into the pot with the meat 
 three turnips pared and cut in two, a large carrot 
 scraped clean and cut in six pieces, and a small lettuce. 
 Cover the pot close, and let it stew very gently for five 
 or six hours ; then take out the spice, sweet herbs, and 
 onion, pom* all into a soup dish, season it with salt, 
 and send it to table. 
 
 Cow Heel Soup. 
 
 Take four pounds of lean mutton, three of beef, 
 and two of veal ; cut them across, and put them into a 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 24 
 
 pot, with an old fowl, and four or five slices of lean 
 ham. Let these stew without any liquor over a very 
 slow fire, but be careful they do not burn to the pot. 
 As soon as you find the meat begins to stick to the 
 bottom, stir it about, and put in some good beef broth 
 clear of all the fat : then put in some turnips, carrots, 
 and celery cut small, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a 
 bay leaf ; then add some more clear broth, and let it 
 stew about an hour. While this is doing, take a cow 
 heel, split it, and set it on to boil in some of the same 
 broth. When it is very tender take it off, and set on 
 a stew-pan with some crusts of bread, and some more 
 broth, and let it soak eight or ten minutes. When 
 the soup is stewed till it tastes rich, lay the crusts in a 
 tureen, and the two halves of the cow heel upon them. 
 Then pour in the soup, season it to your palate, and 
 serve it to table. 
 
 White Soup. 
 
 Take a knuckle of veal, a large fowl, and a pound 
 of lean bacon: put these into a saucepan with six quarts 
 of water: add half a pound of rice, two anchovies, a few 
 peppercorns, a bundle of sweet herbs, two or three 
 onions, and three or four heads of celery cut in slices. 
 Stew them all together, till the soup is as strong as 
 you would have it, and then strain it through a hair 
 sieve into a clean earthen pan. Let it stand all night, 
 and the next day take off the scum very clean, and 
 pour the liquor into a stew-pan. Put in half a pound 
 of sweet almonds beat fine, boil it for about a quarter 
 of an hour, and strain it through a lawn sieve. Then 
 put in a pint of cream, with the yolk of an egg, stir all 
 together, let it boil a few minutes, then pom- it into 
 your tureen, and serve it up. 
 
 Gravy Soup. 
 
 Take a shin of beef, with the bone well chopped, 
 and put it into your saucepan with six quarts of water, 
 a pint of peas, and six onions. Set it over the fire, 
 and let it boil gently till the juices of the meat are 
 drawn out : then strain the liquor through a sieve, and 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 25 
 
 add to it a quart of strong beef broth. Season it to 
 your taste with pepper and salt, and put in a little 
 celery and beet leaves ; and when it has boiled till the 
 vegetables are tender, pour it into a tureen, and take 
 it to table. 
 
 Spring Stup. 
 
 T ake a pint of young peas, some chervil, sorrel, 
 young green onions, spring carrots, and turnips, and 
 stew them in some butter till tender ; when done, add 
 what quantity of good brown gravy you wish ; season 
 it with pepper, mace, and salt. Let the turnips and 
 carrots be sliced, and be sure take olf all the fat that 
 rises upon the soup. 
 
 Hare Soup. 
 
 Cut a large hare into pieces, and put it into an 
 earthen mug, with three blades of mace, two large 
 onions, a little salt, a red-herring, half a dozen large 
 morels, a pint of red wine, and three quarts of water. 
 Bake it three hours in a quick oven, and then strain 
 the liquor into a stew-pan. Have ready boiled four 
 ounces of French barley, and put in; just scald the 
 liver, and rub it through a sieve with a wooden spoon ; 
 put it into the soup, set it over the fire, but do not let 
 it boil. Keep it stirring till it is on the brink of boil- 
 ing, and then take it off. Put some crisped bread into 
 
 your tureen, and pour the soup into it. This is a 
 
 most delicious rich soup, and calculated for large enter- 
 tainments. If any other kind of soup is provided, this 
 should be placed at the bottom of the table. 
 
 Partridge Soup. 
 
 Take two large old partridges, skin them, and cut 
 them into pieces, with three or four slices of ham, a 
 little celery, and three large onions cut in slices. Fry 
 them in butter till they are brown, but be sure you do 
 not let them burn. Then put them into a stew-pan, 
 with three quarts of boiling water, a few peppercorns, 
 and a little salt. After it has stew ed gently for two 
 hours, strain it through a sieve, put it again into your 
 
 No. 2. D 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 26 
 
 stew-pan with some stewed celery and fried bread. 
 When it is near boiling, pour it into your tureen, and 
 serve it up hot. 
 
 Cray Fish Soup. 
 
 Boil an hundred fresh cray fish, as also a fine lob- 
 ster, and pick the meat clean out of each. Pound 
 the shells of both in a mortar till they are very fine, 
 and boil them in four quarts of water with four pounds 
 of mutton, a pint of green split peas nicely picked and 
 washed, a large turnip, a carrot, an onion, mace, cloves, 
 an anchovy, a little thyme, pepper, and salt. Stew 
 them on a slow fire till all the goodness is out of the 
 mutton and shells ; then strain it through a sieve, and 
 put in the meat of your cray fish and lobster, but let 
 them be cut into very small pieces, with the red coral 
 of the lobster, if it has any. Boil it half an hour, and 
 just before you serve it up, add a little butter melted 
 thick and smooth : stir it round when you put it in, and 
 let it simmer very gently about ten minutes. Fry a 
 French roll nice and brown, lay it in the middle of the 
 dish, pour the soup on it, and serve it up hot. 
 
 Eel Soap. 
 
 Take a pound of eels, which will make a pint of 
 good soup, or any greater weight, in proportion to the 
 quantity of soup you intend to make. To every pound 
 of eels put a quart of water, a crust of bread, two or 
 three blades of mace, a little whole pepper, an onion, 
 and a bunch of sweet herbs. Cover them close, and 
 let them boil till half the liquor is wasted : then strain 
 it, and toast some bread; cut it small, lay the bread in 
 your dish, and pour in the soup. This soup is very bal- 
 samic, and particularlynutritious to weak constitutions. 
 
 Oyster Soup. 
 
 Take a pound of skate, four or five flounders, and 
 two eels ; cut them into pieces, just cover them with 
 water, and season with mace, an onion stuck with 
 cloves, a head of celery, two parsley roots sliced, some 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 27 
 
 pepper and salt, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Cover 
 them down close, and after they have simmered about 
 an hour and a half, strain the liquor clear off, and put 
 it into a clean saucepan. In the mean time take a 
 quart of oysters, bearded, and beat them in a mortar 
 with the yolks of six eggs boiled hard. Season it with 
 pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg ; and when the liquor 
 boils put all into it. Let the whole boil till it becomes 
 of the thickness of cream, then take it off, pour it into 
 your tureen, and serve it to table. 
 
 Mutton Broth. 
 
 Take a neck of mutton about six pounds, cut it in 
 two, boil the scrag part in a gallon of water, skim it 
 well, and then put in a small bundle of sweet herbs, an 
 onion, and a good crust of bread. When the scrag 
 has boiled about an hour, put in the other part of the 
 mutton, and about a quarter of an hour before the meat 
 is done, put in a turnip or two, some dried marigolds, 
 a few chives, with parsley chopped small, and season 
 it with salt. You may at first put in a quarter of a 
 pound of barley or rice, which both thickens and con- 
 tributes a grateful flavour. Some like it thicken ed 
 with oatmeal, and some with bread ; and, instead of 
 sweet herbs and onions, season it with mace : but this 
 is a mere fancy, and determined by the different palates 
 uf different people. If you boil turnips as sauce to the 
 meat, let it be done by themselves, otherwise the fla- 
 vour, by being too powerful, will injure the broth. 
 
 Beef Broth. 
 
 Take a leg of beef with the bone well cracked, 
 wash it thoroughly <jlean, and put it into your pot with 
 a gallon of water. Scum it well, and put in two or 
 three blades of mace, a small bunch of parsley, and a 
 large crust of bread. Let it boil till the beef and 
 sinews are quite tender. Cut some toasted bread 
 and put into your tureen, then lay in the meat, and 
 pour the soup all over. 
 
28 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 Beef Drink. 
 
 Take a pound and a half of lean beef, cut it into 
 small pieces, and put it into a gallon of water, with the 
 under crust of a penny loaf, and a little salt. Let it 
 boil till it is reduced to two quarts, then strain it off, 
 and it will be very good drink. — Observe, when you 
 first put the meat into the water, that it is clear of all 
 skin and fat. 
 
 Strong Beef Broth to keep. 
 
 Take part of a leg of beef, and the scrag end of a 
 neck of mutton. Break the bones well of each, and put 
 to it as much water as will cover it, with a little salt. 
 When it boils skim it clean, and put to it a large onion 
 stuck with cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, some pep- 
 per, and a nutmeg quartered. Let these boil till the 
 virtues of the mace are drawn out, then strain the soup 
 through a fine sieve, and keep it for use. 
 
 Veal Broth. 
 
 Stew a knuckle of veal in about a gallon of water, 
 put in two ounces of rice or vermicelli, a little salt, and 
 a blade of mace. When the meat is thoroughly boiled, 
 and the liquor reduced to about one half, it will be very 
 good and fit for use. 
 
 Chicken Broth. 
 
 Skin a large old fowl, cut off the fat, break the 
 fowl to pieces, and put it into two quarts of water, 
 with a good crust of bread, and a blade of mace. Let 
 it boil gently five or six hours : then pour off all the li- 
 quor, put a quart more of boiling water to it, and cover 
 it close ; let it boil softly till it is good, then strain it 
 off, and season it with a little salt. In the meantime 
 boil a chicken, and save the liquor ; and w hen the flesh 
 is eat, take the bones, break them, and put them in the 
 liquor in which you boiled the chicken, with a blade 
 of mace, and a crust of bread. When the juice of the 
 bones is extracted, strain it off, mix it with the other 
 liquor, and send it to table. 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 29 
 
 Spring Broth. 
 
 Take a crust of bread, and about a quarter of a 
 pound of fresh butter ; put them into a soup-pot or 
 stew-pan, with a good quantity of herbs, as bear, sor- 
 rel, chervil, lettuce, leeks, and purslain, all washed 
 clean, and coarsely chopped. Put to them a quart of 
 water, and let them stew till it is reduced to one half, 
 when it will be fit for use. This is an excellent puri- 
 fier of the blood. 
 
 Plum Porridge to keep. 
 
 Take a leg and shin of beef, put them into eight 
 gallons of water, and boil them till the meat is quite 
 tender. When the broth is strong, strain it off, shake 
 out the meat, and put the broth again into the pot. 
 Slice six penny loaves thin, cutting off' the tops and 
 bottoms, put some of the liquor to them, cover them 
 over, and let them soak for a quarter of an hour : then 
 boil and strain it, and put it into your pot. When the 
 whole has boiled a short time, put in five pounds of 
 stewed raisins of the sun, and two pounds of prunes. 
 After it has boiled a quarter of an hour, put in five 
 pounds of currants clean washed and picked. Let 
 these boil till they swell, and then put in three quar- 
 ters of an ounce of mace, half an ounce of cloves, and 
 two nutmegs, all beat fine. Before you put these into 
 the pot, mix them with a little cold liquor, and put 
 them in but a short time before the whole is done. 
 When you take off the pot, put in three pounds of 
 sugar, a little salt, a quart of sack, a quart of claret, 
 and the juice of two or three lemons. If you think 
 proper, instead of bread, you may thicken it with sago. 
 Pom- your porridge into earthen pans, and keep it for 
 use. 
 
 Mock Turtle Soup. 
 
 Scald a calf’s head with the skin on, and take off 
 the horny part, which must be cut into pieces about 
 two inches square. Let these be well washed and 
 cleaned, then dry them in a cloth, and put them into a 
 stew-pan, with four quarts of water made as follows : 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 30 
 
 Take six or seven pounds of beef, a calf ‘s foot, a shank 
 of ham, an onion, two carrots, a turnip, a head of ce- 
 lery, some cloves and whole pepper, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, a little lemon-peel, and a few truffles. Put 
 these into eight quarts of water, and let it stew gently 
 till the broth is reduced one half ; then strain it otf, and 
 put it into the stew-pan, with the horny parts of the 
 calf's head. Add some knotted marjoram, a little 
 savory, thyme, and parsley, all chopped small together, 
 with some cloves and mace pounded, a little chyan 
 pepper, some green onions, a shalot cut fine, a few 
 chopped mushrooms, and half a pint of Madeira wine. 
 Stew all these together gently till the soup is reduced 
 to two quarts ; then heat a little broth, mix some flour 
 smooth in it, with the yolks of two eggs, and keep it 
 stirring over a gentle fire till it is near boiling. Add 
 this to the soup, keeping it stirring as you pour it in, 
 and let them all stew together for another hour. When 
 you take it off the fire, squeeze in the juice of half a 
 lemon, and half an orange, and throw in some boiled 
 force-meat balls. Pour the whole into your tureen, 
 and serve it up hot to table. This is a rich soup, and 
 to most palates deliciously gratifying. 
 
 Portable Soup. 
 
 This soup (which is particularly calculated for the 
 use and convenience of travellers, from its not receiv- 
 ing any injury by time,) must be made in the following 
 manner. Cut into small pieces three large legs of veal, 
 one of beef, and the lean part of a ham. Put a quar- 
 ter of a pound of butter at the bottom of a large cal- 
 dron, then lay in the meat and bones, with four ounces 
 of anchovies, and two ounces of mace. Cut off the 
 green leaves of five or six heads of celery, wash the 
 heads quite clean, cut them small, put them in with 
 three large carrots cut thin, cover the caldron quite 
 close, and set it over a moderate fire. When you find 
 the gravy begins to draw, keep taking it up till you 
 have got it all out ; then put water in to cover the 
 meat ; set it on the fire again, and let it boil gently for 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 31 
 
 four hours ; then strain it through a hair sieve into a 
 clean pan, till it is reduced to one part out of three. 
 Strain the gravy you draw from the meat into the pan, 
 and let it boil gently till you find it of a glutinous con- 
 sistence, observing to keep skimming off the fat clea n 
 as it rises. You must take particular care, when it it 
 nearly enough, that it does not burn. Season it to your 
 taste with chyan pepper, and pour it on flat earthen 
 dishes a quarter of an inch thick. Let it stand till the 
 next day, and then cut it out by round tins a little 
 larger than a crown piece. Lay the cakes in dishes, 
 and set them in the sun to dry, to facilitate which turn 
 them often. When the cakes are dry, put them into 
 a tin box, with a piece of clean white paper between 
 each, and keep them in a dry place. If made in frosty 
 weather, it will be sooner formed in its proper solidity. 
 This soup is not only particularly useful to travellers, 
 but it is also exceeding convenient to be kept in private 
 families ; for by putting one of the cakes into a sauce- 
 pan, with about a pint of water, and a little salt, a 
 basin of good broth may be had in a few minutes. 
 There is also another great convenience in it ; that by 
 boiling a small quantity of water with one of the cakes, 
 it will make an excellent gravy for roast turkeys and 
 fowls. 
 
32 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 BOILING IN GENERAL. 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT. 
 
 AS a necessary prelude to the directions given under 
 this head, we shall make a few necessary and general 
 observations. All meat should be boiled as slow as 
 possible, but in plenty of water, which will make it 
 rise and look plump. Be careful to keep it clear from 
 scum, and let your pot be close covered. If you boil 
 it fast, the outside will be hardened before the inside is 
 arm, and the meat will be disagreeably discoloured. 
 A leg of veal of twelve pounds weight, will take three 
 hours and a half boiling ; and the slower it boils the 
 whiter and plumper it will be. 
 
 With respect to mutton and beef, if they are rather 
 under done, they may be ate without being either 
 disagreeable or unwholesome; but lamb, pork, and 
 veal, should be thoroughly done, otnerwise, they will 
 be obnoxious to the sight, and consequently ungrate- 
 ful to the palate. A leg of pork will take half an 
 hour’s more boiling than a leg of veal of the same 
 weight ; but in general, when you boil beef and mut- 
 ton, you may allow as many quarters of an hour as the 
 meat weighs pounds. To put in the meat when the 
 water is cold must be allowed to be the best method, 
 as thereby the middle gets warm before the outside 
 becomes hardened. Three quarters of an hour will 
 boil a leg of lamb four pounds and a half weight. 
 From these general directions, it would be unneces- 
 sary to describe the usual mode of boiling the common 
 joints of either mutton or beef. We shall therefore 
 proceed to those articles which require more particu- 
 lar notice. 
 
BOILING MEAT, <§*C. 33 
 
 To dress a Calf's Head, one half boiled, the other 
 
 baked. 
 
 After having well cleansed the head, parboil one 
 half, beat up the yolk of an egg, and rub it over the 
 head with a feather ; then strew over it a seasoning 
 of pepper, salt, thyme, parsley chopped small, shred 
 lemon-peel, grated bread, and a little nutmeg ; stick 
 bits of butter over it, and send it to the oven. Boil 
 the other half white in a cloth, and put them both into 
 a dish. Boil the brains in a piece of clean cloth, with 
 a very little parsley, and a leaf or two of sage. When 
 they are boiled chop them small, and warm them up 
 in a saucepan, with a bit of butter, and a little pepper 
 and salt. Lay the tongue, boiled and peeled, in the 
 middle of a small dish, and the brains round it ; have 
 in another dish, bacon or pickled pork ; and in a third, 
 greens and carrots. 
 
 Grass Lamb. 
 
 Whatever the number of pounds is that the joint 
 weighs, so many quarters of an hour must it boil. 
 When done, serve it up with spinach, carrots, cab- 
 bage, or brocoli. 
 
 A Ham. 
 
 Put your ham into a copper of cold water, and when 
 it boils take care that it boils slowly. A ham of twen- 
 ty pounds weight will take four hours and a half boil- 
 ing ; and so in proportion for one of a larger or smaller 
 size. An old and large ham will require sixteen hours 
 soaking in a large tub of soft water ; but a green one 
 does not require any soaking. Be sure, while your ham 
 is boiling, to keep the water clear from scum. When 
 you take it up, pull off the skin, and rub it all over with 
 an egg, strew on crumbs of bread, baste it with a little 
 butter, and set it to the fire till it is of a light brown. 
 
 Another Way of boiling a Ham. 
 
 With respect to its being an old ham, or a green 
 one, observe the before-mentioned directions. Pare it 
 round and underneath, taking care no rusty part is left. 
 Put it into a pan or pot that will properly contain it, 
 
 No. 2. E 
 
BOILING 
 
 34 
 
 cover it with water, and put in a few cloves, thyme, 
 and laurel leaves. Let it boil on a slow fire about five 
 hours, and then add a glass of brandy, and a pint of red 
 wine : finish boding in the same manner. If it is to be 
 served up hot, take off the skin, and throw it over with 
 crumbs of bread, a little parsley finely chopped, and a 
 few bits of butter, and give it a good colour either in 
 the oven, or with a salamander. If it is to be kept 
 cold, it will be better to let the skin remain, as it wdl 
 be a means of preserving its juices. 
 
 Ham a-la-Braise. 
 
 Pare your ham round and underneath, taking care 
 no rusty part is left ; cover it well with meat under 
 and over, with roots and spices, filling it up with water. 
 The gravy that comes from the ham being excellent 
 for all kinds of brown sauces. 
 
 Tongues. 
 
 If it be a dried tongue, steep it all night in water; 
 but if it be a pickled one, only wash it well from the 
 brine. Let it boil moderately three hours. If it is to 
 be eat hot, stick it with cloves, rub it over with the 
 yolk of an egg, strew crumbled bread over it, and, 
 when done, baste it with butter, and set it before the 
 fire till it becomes of a light brown. Dish it up with 
 a little brown gravy, or red wine sauce, and lay slices 
 of currant jelly round the dish. 
 
 Neats Tongue , ivith Parsley. 
 
 Boil it a quarter of an hour, then take it out, and 
 lard it ; put it in again to boil with any meat you have 
 going on ; when it is done, take the skin off, cut almost 
 half through the middle lengthwise, that it may open 
 in two parts, without the pieces coming apart, and 
 serve it up with some gravy, pepper, and parsley shred 
 fine. If you wish you may add a dash of lemon-juice. 
 
 Leg of Mutton, with Cauliflowers and Spinach. 
 
 Take a leg of mutton, cut venison fashion, and boil 
 it in a cloth. Boil two fine cauliflowers in milk and 
 
MEAT, $C. 35 
 
 water, pull them into sprigs, and stew them with but- 
 ter, pepper, salt, and a little milk : stew some spinach 
 in a saucepan, and put to it a quarter of a pint of 
 gravy, with a piece of butter, and a little flour. When 
 all is done, put the mutton in the middle of the dish, 
 the spinach round it, and the cauliflower over all. The 
 butter the cauliflower was stewed in must be poured 
 over it, and it must be made to appear like smooth 
 cream. 
 
 Lamb’s Head. 
 
 Wash the head very clean, take the black part from 
 the eyes, and the gall from the liver. Lay the head 
 in warm water; boil the lights, heart, and part of the 
 liver. Chop and flour them, and toss them up in a 
 saucepan with some gravy, catchup, and a little pep- 
 per, salt, lemon-juice, and a spoonful of cream. Boil 
 the head very white, lay it in the middle of the dish, 
 and the mince-meat round it. Place the other parts 
 of the liver fried, with some very small bits of bacon 
 on the mince-meat, and the brains fried in little cakes 
 and laid on the rim of the dish, with some crisped pars- 
 ley put between. Pour a little melted butter over the 
 head, and garnish with lemon. 
 
 Or you may dress it thus : 
 
 Boil the head and pluck tender, but do not let the 
 liver be too much done. Take the head up, hack it 
 cross and cross with a knife, grate some nutmeg over 
 it, and lay it in a dish before a good fire. Then grate 
 some crumbs of bread, some sweet herbs rubbed, a 
 little lemon-peel chopped fine, a very little pepper and 
 salt, and baste it with a little butter ; then throw a 
 little flour over it, and just as it is done do the same, 
 baste and dredge it. Take half the liver, the heart, 
 the lights, and tongue, chop them very small, with 
 about a gill of gravy or water. First shake some flour 
 over the meat, and stir it together, then put in the gravy 
 or water a good piece of butter rolled in a little flour, 
 a little pepper and salt, and what runs from the head 
 in the dish. Simmer all together a few minutes, and 
 
BOILING 
 
 36 
 
 add half a spoonful of vinegar ; pour it into your dish, 
 lay the head in the middle of the mince-meat, have 
 ready the other half of the liver cut thin with some 
 slices of bacon broiled, and lay round the head. Gar- 
 nish with lemon. 
 
 Leg of Lamb boiled, and Loin fried. 
 
 Cut your leg from the loin, and boil it three quar- 
 ters of an hour. Cut the loin in handsome steaks, 
 beat them with a cleaver, and fry them a good brown. 
 Then stew them a little in strong gravy. Put your 
 leg on the dish, and lay your steaks round it. Pour 
 on your gravy, lay round lumps of staved spinach 
 and crisped parsley on every steak. Send it to table 
 with gooseberry sauce in a boat, and garnish with lemon. 
 
 A Haunch or Neck of Venison. 
 
 As a necessary preparation for either of these joints, 
 let it lie in salt for a week ; then boil it in a cloth well 
 floured, and allow a quarter of an hour s boiling for 
 every pound it weighs. For sauce, boil some cauli- 
 flowers, pulled into little sprigs, in some milk and wa- 
 ter, with some fine white cabbage, and turnips cut in 
 dice ; add some beet-root cut into narrow pieces about 
 an inch and a half long, and half an inch thick. After 
 your cabbage is boiled, beat it up in a saucepan with 
 a piece of butter and salt. When your meat is done, 
 and laid in the dish, put the cabbage next the cauli- 
 flower, and then the turnips. Place the beet-root here 
 and there, according to your fancy : and have a little 
 melted butter in a cup, in case it should be wanted. 
 This dish is not only excellent in its quality, but par- 
 ticularly pleasing in its appearance. If any is left, it 
 will eat well the next day, hashed with gravy and 
 sweet sauce. 
 
 Pickled Pork. 
 
 After washing and scraping it perfectly clean, put 
 it into the pot with the water cold, and when the rind 
 feels tender, it is enough. The general sauce is greens, 
 among the variety of which you are to make choice to 
 your own direction. 
 
37 
 
 MEAT, c^C. 
 
 Pig's Pettitoes . 
 
 Boil the feet till they are quite tender, but take up 
 the heart, liver, and lights, when they have boiled ten 
 minutes, and shred them small. Then take out the 
 feet and split them ; thicken your gravy with flour and 
 butter, and put in your mince-meat, a spoonful ol 
 white wine, a slice of lemon, a little salt, and give it a 
 gentle boil. Beat the yolk of an egg : put to it two 
 spoonsful of cream, and a little grated nutmeg. Then 
 put in the pettitoes, and shake it over the fire till it is 
 q uite hot, but do not let it boil. Put sippets into the 
 dish, pour over the whole, and garnish with sliced 
 lemon. 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 BOILING POULTRY. 
 
 Turkeys. 
 
 A Turkey should not be dressed till three or four 
 days after being killed, as it will otherwise not boil 
 white, neither will it eat tender. When you have 
 plucked it, draw it at the rump, cut off the legs, put the 
 ends of the thighs into the body, and tie them with a 
 string. Having cut off the head and neck, grate a pen- 
 ny loaf, chop fine about a score of oysters, shred a little 
 lemon-peel, and put in a sufficient quantity of salt, pep- 
 per, and nutmeg. Mix these up into a light force- 
 meat, with a quarter of a pound of butter, three eggs, 
 and a spoonful or two of cream. Stuff the craw of the 
 turkey with one part of this composition : the other 
 must be made into balls, and boiled. When you have 
 sewed up the turkey, and dredged it with flour, put it 
 into a kettle of cold water ; cover it close, set it over 
 the fire, and when the scum begins to rise, take it clean 
 off, and then cover the kettle close. If a young one of 
 a moderate size, let it boil very slowly for half an hour ; 
 then take off your kettle, and let it stand for some time 
 
38 
 
 BOILING 
 
 close covered, when the steam being confined, will 
 sufficiently do it. When you dish it up, pour a little 
 of your oyster sauce over it, lay the force-meat balls 
 round it, and serve it up with the rest of the sauce in 
 a boat. Garnish your dish with barberries and lemon. 
 
 The best sauces for a boiled turkey are, good oyster 
 and celery sauce. Make the oyster sauce thus : Take 
 a pint of oysters, strain the liquor from them, and beard 
 and wash them in cold water. Pour the liquor clear off 
 into a stew-pan, and put in the oysters with a blade of 
 mace, some butter rolled with flour, and a quarter of 
 a lemon. When they boil up, put in half a pint of 
 cream, and boil the whole gently together. Take the 
 lemon and mace out ; squeeze the juice of the lemon 
 into the sauce, and serve it up in your boats or basins. 
 Make the celery sauce thus : Cut the white part 
 of the celery into pieces about an inch in length, and 
 boil it in some water till it is tender. Then take hall 
 a pint of veal broth and a blade of mace, and thicken 
 it with a little flour and butter ; add half a pint of 
 cream, and boil them gently together. Put in youi 
 celery, and when it boils, pour them into your boats 
 
 Chickens. 
 
 After you have drawn them, lay them in skimmed 
 milk for two hours, and truss them. When you have 
 properly singed, and dusted them with flour, cover 
 them close in cold water, and set them over a slow fire. 
 Having taken off the scum, and boiled them slowly five 
 or six minutes, take them off the fire, and keep them 
 close covered for half an hour in the water, which will 
 do them sufficiently, and make them plump and white. 
 Before you dish them, set them on the fire to heat ; 
 then drain them and pour over them white sauce, which 
 you must have made ready in the following manner : 
 
 Take the heads and necks of the chickens, with a 
 small bit of scrag of veal, or any scraps of mutton you 
 may have by you, and put them into a saucepan, with 
 a blade or two of mace, and a few black peppercorns, 
 an anchovy, a head of celery, a slice of the end of a 
 
POULTRY, §C. 39 
 
 lemon, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Put to these a 
 quart of water, cover it close, and let it boil till it is 
 reduced to half a pint. Then strain it, and thicken it 
 with a quarter of a pound of butter mixed with flour, 
 and boil it five or six minutes. Then put in two spoons- 
 ful of mushrooms, and mix the yolks of two eggs with 
 a tea-cup full of cream, and a little nutmeg grated. 
 Put in your sauce, and keep shaking it over the fire till 
 it is near boiling ; then pour it into your boats, and 
 serve it up with your chickens. 
 
 Fowls. 
 
 After having drawn your fowls, which you must 
 be particularly careful in doing, cut off the head, neck, 
 and legs. Skewer them with the ends of their legs in 
 their bodies, and tie them round with a string. Singe 
 and dust them well with flour, put them into cold wa- 
 ter, cover the kettle close, and set it on the fire : but 
 take it off as soon as the scum begins to rise. Cover 
 them close again, and let them boil gently twenty mi- 
 nutes then take them off, and the heat of the water 
 will do them sufficiently. Melted butter with pars- 
 ley shred fine is the usual sauce, but you may serve 
 them up with the like sauce as before directed for 
 chickens. 
 
 Rabbits or Ducks. 
 
 Boil your duck or rabbit in a good deal of water, 
 and when the scum rises take it clean off. A duck will 
 take about twenty minutes, and a rabbit half an hour. 
 Melted butter and parsley is frequently used as sauce 
 for rabbits; but if you prefer onion sauce, which will 
 do for either, make it thus : Peel your onions, and 
 throw them into water as you peel them ; then cut 
 them into thin slices, boil them in milk and water, and 
 scum the liquor. About half an hour will boil them. 
 When they are sufficiently boiled, put them into a clean 
 sieve to drain; chop them, and rub them through a 
 cullender ; then put them into a saucepan, and shake 
 a little flour, with two or three spoonsful of cream, and 
 a good piece of butter. Stew them all together till 
 
40 
 
 BOILING 
 
 they are thick and fine ; lay the duck or rabbit in a 
 dish, and pour the sauce all over. If a rabbit, you 
 must pluck out the jaw-bones, and stick one in each 
 eye, the small end inwards 
 
 Another sauce for a boiled duck may be made thus : 
 Take a large onion, a handful of parsley clean washed 
 and picked, and a lettuce ; cut the onion small, chop 
 the parsley fine, and put them into a quarter of a pint 
 of good gravy, with a spoonful of lemon-juice, and a 
 little pepper and salt. When they have stewed to 
 gether half an hour, add two spoonsful of red wine. 
 Lay the duck in your dish, and pour the sauce over it. 
 
 Pigeons. 
 
 When you draw your pigeons, be careful to take 
 out the craw as clean as possible. Wash them in se- 
 veral waters, and having cut off the pinions turn their 
 legs under their wings. Let them boil very slowly a 
 quarter of an hour, and they will be sufficiently done. 
 Dish them up, and pour over them good melted butter; 
 lay round the dish a little brocoli, and serve them up 
 with melted butter and parsley in boats. They should 
 be boiled by themselves, and may be eaten with bacon, 
 greens, spinach, or asparagus. 
 
 Geese. 
 
 Singe a goose, and pour over it a quart of boiling 
 milk. Let it continue in the milk all night, then take 
 it out, and dry it well with a cloth. Cut an onion 
 very small with some sage, put them into the goose, 
 sew it up at the neck and vent, and hang it up bv the 
 legs till the next day ; then put it into a pot of cold 
 water, cover it close, and let it boil gently for an hour. 
 Serve it up with onion sauce. 
 
 Partridges. 
 
 Boil them quick in a good deal of water, and fifteen 
 minutes will be sufficient. For sauce, take a quarter 
 of a pint of cream, and a bit of fresh butter about the 
 size of a walnut. Stir it one way till it is melted, 
 and then pour it over the birds. 
 
41 
 
 POULTRY, 
 
 Pheasants. 
 
 These must be likewise boiled in plenty of water. 
 If it be a small one, half an hour will be sufficient, but 
 if a large one, three quarters. For sauce, stew some 
 beads of celery cut very fine, thickened with cream, 
 and a small piece of butter rolled in flour, and season 
 with salt to your palate. When your bird is done, 
 pour the sauce over it, and garnish the dish with thin 
 slices of lemon. 
 
 Snipes or Woodcocks. 
 
 Snipes or Woodcocks must be boiled in good 
 strong broth, or beef gravy, which you must make as 
 follows : Cut a pound of lean beef into small pieces, 
 and put it into four quarts of water, with an onion, a 
 bundle of sweet herbs, a blade or two of mace, six 
 cloves, and some whole pepper. Cover it close, let it 
 boil till it is half wasted, then strain it off, and put the 
 gravy into a saucepan, with salt enough to season it. 
 Draw the birds clean, but take particular care of the 
 guts. Put the birds into the gravy, cover them close, 
 and ten minutes will boil them. In the meantime cut 
 the guts and liver small, then take a little of the gravy 
 the birds are boiling in, and stew the guts in it with 
 a blade of mace. Take about as much of the crumb 
 of bread as the inside of a roll, and rub or grate it 
 very small into a clean cloth, then put into a pan 
 with some butter, and fry it till crisp, and of a fine 
 light brown colour. When your birds are ready, take 
 about half a pint of the liquor they were boiled in, 
 and add to the guts two spoonsful of red wine, and 
 a piece of butter about the size of a walnut, rolled in 
 flour. Set them on the fire, and shake your saucepan 
 often, (but by no means stir it with a spoon,) till the 
 butter is melted ; then put in the fried crumbs, give 
 the saucepan another shake, take up your birds, lay 
 them in the dish, and pour your sauce over them. 
 Garnish with sliced lemon. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
42 
 
 BOILING 
 
 SECT. III. 
 
 BOILING FISH. 
 
 Turbot. 
 
 When you have thoroughly washed and cleansed 
 your fish, rub some allegar over it, which will greatly 
 contribute to its firmness. Put it in your fish-plate 
 with the belly upwards, and fasten a cloth tight over 
 it to prevent its breaking. Let it boil gently in hard 
 water, with plenty of salt and vinegar, and scum it 
 well, to prevent the skin being discoloured. Be sure 
 not to put in your fish till the water boils, and when 
 it is enough, take it up, and drain it. Remove the 
 cloth carefully, and slip the fish very cautiously on 
 the dish, for fear of breaking it. Lay over it oyster- 
 patties, or fried oysters. Put your lobster or gravy 
 sauce into boats, and garnish with crisped parsley anti 
 pickles. 
 
 Another Way to dress a Turbot. 
 
 Put into the bottom of your stew-pan some thyme, 
 parsley, sweet herbs, and an onion sliced. Then lay 
 in your fish, and strew over it the like quantity of the 
 same herbs, with some chives and sweet basil. Cover 
 the fish with an equal quantity of white wine and the 
 best vinegar. Strew in a little bay salt with some 
 whole pepper. Set the stew-pan over a gentle fire, 
 arid gradually increase the heat till it is enough ; 
 when done, take it off the fire, but let the fish remain 
 in the liquor, till you have made your sauce as fol- 
 lows : Set a saucepan over the fire, with a pound of 
 butter, two anchovies split, boned, and washed, two 
 large spoonsful of capers, cut small, some chivo 
 whole, a little pepper and salt, some nutmeg grated, 
 a little flour, a spoonful of vinegar, and a little 
 water. — Keep shaking it round for some time, and 
 then put on the fish to make it quite hot. When both 
 are done, put the turbot into a dish, pour some of the 
 sauce over it, and the remainder into a boat. Garnish 
 the dish with horse-radish. 
 
FISH. 
 
 43 
 
 Turbot en Maigre. 
 
 Pot into your stew-pan a pint of water, a good bit 
 of salt, some garlic, onions, all sorts of sweet herbs, 
 and cloves ; boil the whole half an hour over a slow 
 lire Let it settle. Pour it off clear, and strain it 
 through a sieve ; then put in twice as much milk as 
 brine, and put the fish in it over a slow fire, letting it 
 simmer only. When your turbot is done, you may 
 serve it with any one of the following sauces : Ragout 
 of egg balls, ragout of oysters, or truffles, or mush- 
 room, or a sauce hachee. 
 
 Salmon. 
 
 This is so substantial a fish, that it requires to be 
 well boiled. A piece not very thick will take half an 
 hour. Boil horse-radish in the water. For sauce, 
 melt some butter plain, and some other with anchovy. 
 Garnish with horse-radish and sliced lemon. 
 
 To dress a whole Salmon for a large Company. 
 
 When the salmon is scalded and gutted, take off 
 the head and tail, cut the body through into slices an 
 inch and a half thick, and throw them into a large pan 
 of pump water. When they are all put in, sprinkle 
 a handful of bay salt upon the water, stir it about, 
 and then take out the fish. Set on a large deep stew- 
 pan, boil the head and tail, but do not split the head, 
 and put in some salt. When they have boiled ten 
 minutes, skim the water very clean, and put in the 
 slices. When they are boiled enough, take them out, 
 lay the head and tail in a dish, and the slices round. 
 Serve it up with plain melted butter and anchovy sauce. 
 Garnish with horse-radish, mixed with the slices. 
 
 Cod's Head. 
 
 Take out the gills and the blood, wash the whole 
 very clean, rub over it a little salt, and a glass of alle- 
 gar, and lay on your fish plate. When the water boils, 
 throw in a good handful of salt, with a glass of alle- 
 gar. Then put in the fish, and let it boil gently half an 
 hour (if it is a large one. three quarters.) Take it up 
 
44 
 
 BOILING 
 
 very carefully, and strip the skin clean off, set it before 
 a brisk fire, dredge it all over with flour, and baste it 
 well with butter. When the froth begins to rise, 
 throw over it some very fine white bread crumbs, and 
 continue basting it to make it froth well. When it is 
 of a fine light brown, dish it up, and garnish it with 
 lemon cut in slices, scraped horse-radish, barberries, a 
 few small fish fried and laid round it, or fried oysters. 
 Cut the row and liver in slices, and lay it over a little 
 of the lumpy part of the lobster out of the sauce, which 
 you must make as follows : Take a good lobster, and 
 stick a skewer in the vent of the tail to keep out the 
 water. Throw into the water a handful of salt, and 
 when it boils, put in the lobster, which will be done 
 in half an hour. If it has spawn, pick them off, and 
 pound them very fine in the mortar. Put them into 
 half a pound of good melted butter : then take the 
 meat out of your lobster, break it in bits, and put that 
 in likewise, with a large spoonful of lemon-pickle, the 
 same of walnut catchup, a slice of lemon, one or two 
 slices of horse-radish, and a small quantity of beaten 
 mace; season it to your taste with salt and chyan 
 pepper. Boil them one minute, then take out the 
 horse-radish and lemon, pour it into your sauce-boat, 
 and serve it up with your fish. — If lobsters cannot be 
 procured, you may make use of oysters or shrimps the 
 same way ; and if you cannot get any kind of shell fish, 
 you may then add to the butter two anchovies cut 
 small, a spoonful of walnut liquor, and an onion stuck 
 with cloves. 
 
 Whole Cod. 
 
 Put a large quantity of water into your fish-kettle, 
 which must be of a proper size for the cod, with a 
 quarter of a pint of vinegar, a handful of salt, and half 
 a stick of horse-radish. Let these boil together for 
 some time, and then put in the fish. When it is done 
 enough (which will be known by feeling the fins, and 
 the look of the fish) lay it to drain, put it in a hot fish- 
 plate, and then in a warm dish, with the liver cut in 
 
FISH. 
 
 45 
 
 half, and laid on each side. Serve it up with shrimp 
 or oyster-sauce, and garnish with scraped horse-radish. 
 
 Salt Cod. 
 
 Steep your salt fish in water all night, with a glass 
 of vinegar thrown into it, with which take out the salt ; 
 and make it as mild as fresh fish. The next day boil it, 
 and when it is enough, separate it in flakes into your 
 dish. Then pour egg-sauce over it, or parsnips boiled 
 and beat fine with butter and cream. As it will soon 
 grow cold, send it to table on a water plate. 
 
 Cod Sounds. 
 
 Boil your sounds well, but be careful they are not 
 done too much. Take them up, and let them stand till 
 they are quite cold. Then make a forcemeat of chop- 
 ped oysters, crumbs of bread, a lump of butter, the 
 yolks of two eggs, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and fill 
 \<our sounds with it. Skewer them in the shape of a 
 turkey, and lard them down each side, as you would 
 the breast of a turkey. D ust them well with flour, and 
 put them before the fire in a tin oven to roast. Baste 
 them well with butter, and when enough, pour on them 
 oyster-sauce, and garnish with barberries. This is a 
 pretty side-dish for a large table ; or very proper in 
 the time of Lent. 
 
 Soles. 
 
 Take a pair of soles, skin and gut them. Then 
 wash them thoroughly clean, and lay them in vinegar, 
 salt and water, for tw T o hours ; then dry them in a cloth, 
 put them into a stew-pan with a pint of white wine, 
 a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with six 
 cloves, some wdiole pepper, and a little salt. Cover 
 them quite close, and when enough, take them up, 
 lay them in your dish, strain the liquor, and thicken 
 it with butter and flour. Pour the sauce over, and 
 garnish with scraped horse-radish and lemon. You 
 may add prawns, shrimps, or muscles to your sauce, 
 according to the fancy of those for w horn you provide. 
 This is a very good method ; but to make a variety, 
 you may dress them as follows : 
 
46 
 
 BOILING- 
 
 Take two or three pair of middling sized soles, skin, 
 gut, and wash them in spring water. Then put them 
 on a dish, and pour half a pint of white wine over 
 them, turn them two or three times in it, and then 
 pour it away. Cut off the heads and tails of the soles, 
 and set on a stew-pan with a little rich fish broth ; 
 put in an onion cut in pieces, a bunch of sweet herbs, 
 pepper, salt, and a blade of mace. When these boil, 
 put in the soles, and with them half a lemon cut in 
 slices with the peel on. Let them simmer slowly for 
 some time, then take out the sweet herbs, and put in 
 a pint of strong white wine, and a piece of butter rol- 
 led in flour. Let them all simmer together till the 
 soles are enough. While the fish are doing, put in half 
 a pint of veal gravy, and a quarter of a pint of essence 
 of ham, let it boil a little, then take up the soles, and 
 pour this over them. Serve up sauce as before di- 
 rected, and garnish your dish with sliced lemon and 
 horse-radish. 
 
 Trout. 
 
 Boil them in vinegar, water, and salt, with a piece 
 of horse-radish ; and serve them up with anchovy- 
 sauce and plain butter. 
 
 Pike. 
 
 When you have taken out the gills and guts, and 
 thoroughly washed it, make a good forcemeat of chop- 
 ped oysters, the crumb of half a penny loaf, a little 
 lemon-peel shred fine, a lump of butter, the yolks of 
 two eggs, a few sweet herbs, and season them to your 
 taste with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Mix all these 
 well together, and put them into the belly of the fish, 
 which must be sewed up, and skewered round. Boil 
 it in hard Water with a little salt, and a tea-cup full of 
 vinegar put into the pan. As soon as the water boils, 
 put in the fish, (but not before,) and if it is of a middling 
 size, it will be done in half an hour. Serve it up with 
 oyster-sauce in a boat, having first poured a little on 
 the fish. Garnish with pickled barberries. 
 
FISH. 
 
 47 
 
 Carp. 
 
 When you kill your carp, save all the blood, and 
 have ready some nice gravy, made of heef and mutton, 
 seasoned with pepper, salt, mace, and onion. Before 
 you put in your fish, strain it off, and boil your carp be- 
 fore you put it into the gravy. Set it on a slow fire about 
 a quarter of an hour, and thicken the sauce with a large 
 piece of butter rolled in flour ; or you may make your 
 sauce thus : take the liver of the carp clean from the 
 guts, three anchovies, a little parsley, thyme, and an 
 onion. Chop these small together, and take half a pint of 
 Rhenish wine, four spoonsful of vinegar, and the blood 
 of the carp. When all these are stewed gently together, 
 put it to the carp, wfliich must first be boiled in wa- 
 ter with a little salt and a pint of wine ; but take care 
 not to do it too much after the carp is put into the sauce. 
 
 Mullets. 
 
 These must be boiled in salt and water. When 
 they are enough, pour away part of the water, and put 
 to the rest a pint of red Avune, some salt and vinegar, 
 two onions sliced, with a bunch of sweet herbs, some 
 nutmeg, beaten mace, and the juice of a lemon. Boil 
 these well together, with two or three anchovies. Then 
 put in the fish, and when they have simmered in it some 
 time, put them into a dish, and strain the sauce over 
 them. You may add shrimp or oyster-sauce according 
 to your discretion. 
 
 Mackarel. 
 
 Gut and wash them clean, then dry them in a cloth, 
 and rub them gently over with vinegar. Lay them 
 strait on your fish plate, and be very careful in handling 
 them, as they are so tender a fish that they will easily 
 break. When the water boils, put them into your fish- 
 pan with a little salt, and let them boil gently about a 
 quarter of an hour. When you take them up, drain 
 them well, and put the water that runs from them into 
 a sauce-pan with one large spoonful of catchup, a blade 
 or two of mace, an anchovy, and a slice of lemon. Let 
 
BOILING 
 
 48 
 
 these all boil together about a quarter of an hour, then 
 strain it through a hair sieve, and thicken it with flour 
 and butter. Put this sauce in one boat, and melted but- 
 ter and parsley in another. Dish up your fish with their 
 tails in the middle ; and garnish with scraped horse- 
 radish and barberries. Mackarel may be served with 
 melted butter and a little fennel, cut fine, mixed with 
 scalded gooseberries ; also with sweet herbs, cut fine, 
 in melted butter, with a little anchovy essence. 
 
 Mackarel a-la Bourgeois. 
 
 Split them open, put pepper, salt, mace, parsley, 
 shalots, and bread crumbs, with some butter on them. 
 You may either fry or send them to the oven. Serve 
 them up with plain melted butter. 
 
 Herrings. 
 
 Scale, gut, and wash them, then dry them tho- 
 roughly in a cloth, and rub them over with a little salt 
 and vinegar. Skewer their tails in their mouths, and 
 lay them on your fish plate. When the water boils, put 
 them in, and about ten or twelve minutes will do them. 
 After you have taken them up, let them drain properly, 
 and then turn their heads into the middle of the dish. 
 Serve them up with melted butter and parsley, and gar- 
 nish with scraped horse-radish. 
 
 Flounders, Plaice, and Dabs. 
 
 As the similarity of these fish is so great, the me- 
 thod of dressing either must be the same. Fust cut off 
 the fins, nick the brown side under the head, and take 
 out the guts. Then dry them with a cloth, and boil 
 them in salt and water. Serve them up with shrimp, 
 cockle, or muscle sauce, and garnish with red cabbage. 
 
 Perch. 
 
 Put your fish into the water when it boils, with some 
 salt, an onion cut in slices, some parsley, and as much 
 milk as will turn the water. When the fish is enough, 
 put it into a soup-dish, and pour a little of the water 
 with the parsley and onions over it. Serve it up with 
 melted butter and parsley in a boat. 
 
FISH. 
 
 49 
 
 Eels. 
 
 After skinning, gutting, and properly washing 
 them, cutoff their heads, dry them, and twist them 
 round on your fish plate. Boil them in salt and water, 
 and serve them up with melted butter and parsley. If 
 you only boil them in such a quantity of water as will 
 just cover them, the liquor will be exceeding good, and 
 very beneficial to weak or consumptive constitutions. 
 
 Sturgeon. 
 
 When you have cleaned your fish properly, prepare 
 as much liquor as will boil it in the following manner : 
 To two quarts of water put a pint of vinegar, a stick 
 of horse-radish, two or three bits of lemon-peel, some 
 whole pepper, a bay-leaf, and a small quantity of salt. 
 Boil your fish in this liquor, and when enough (which 
 you will know by the flesh appearing likely to sepa- 
 rate from the bones) take it up, and have ready the 
 following sauce : Melt a pound of butter, dissolve an 
 anchovy in it, put in a blade or two of mace, bruise the 
 body of a crab in the butter, a few shrimps or cray-fish, 
 a little catchup, and a little lemon-juice. When it 
 boils, take up the sturgeon, drain it well, lay it in your 
 dish, and serve it up with the sauce poured into boats. 
 Garnish with fried oysters, sliced lemon, and scraped 
 horse-radish. 
 
 Turtles. 
 
 These animals not only furnish the most delicious 
 repast to the epicure, but to all those who can obtain 
 so luxurious a gratification. They are of various sizes, 
 and that the reader may be informed how to dress 
 them, we shall here confine ourselves to one of about 
 eighty pounds weight. Take the turtle out of the wa- 
 ter the night before you intend to dress it. In the 
 morning cut its throat, or the head off, and let it bleed 
 for some time. Then cut off the fins ; scald, scale, and 
 trim them and the head, and raise the callipee, which is 
 the belly or under shell ; clean it well, leaving to it as 
 much meat as you, conveniently can. Take from the 
 back shell all the meat and entrails, except the mon- 
 No. 3. G 
 
60 
 
 BOILING 
 
 sieur, which is the fat, and looks green : this must also 
 be baked with the shell. Wash all clean with salt 
 and water, and cut it into pieces of a moderate size. 
 Take it from the bones, and put them with the fins 
 and head into a soup-pot, with a gallon of water, some 
 salt, and two blades of mace. When it boils, skim it 
 clean, arid put in it a bunch of thyme, parsley, savory, 
 and young onions, and your veal part, except about ore 
 pound and a half, which must be made forcemeat of, as 
 for Scotch collops, adding a little chyan pepper. When 
 the veal is boiled in the soup about an hour, take it 
 out, cut it into pieces, and put to the other part. The 
 guts, which are considered as the best part, must be 
 split open, scraped, and made clean, and cut into pieces 
 about two inches long. Scald and skin the paunch or 
 maw, and cut it like the other parts mix them with 
 the guts and other parts, except the liver, and add half 
 a pound of fresh butter, a few shalots, a bunch of thyme, 
 parsley, and a little savory, seasoned with salt, white 
 pepper, mace, three or four cloves beaten, and a little 
 chyan pepper. Stew them about half an hour over a 
 good charcoal fire, and put in half a pint of Madeira 
 wine, with as much of the broth as will cover it, and 
 let it stew till tender, which will take about four or five 
 hours. When it is nearly enough, skim it, thicken it 
 with flour, and some veal broth, and make it about the 
 thickness of a fricasee. Let your forcemeat balls be 
 fried about the size of a walnut, and stewed about half 
 an hour with the rest. If there are any eggs, let them 
 be boiled and cleaned : but if none, get twelve or four- 
 teen yolks of hard eggs. Then put the stew (which 
 is the callipash) into the shell with the eggs, and either 
 make use of a salamander, or put it into the oven to 
 bake. Slash the callipee in several places, put some 
 butter to it, and season it moderately with chyan and 
 white pepper, salt, beaten mace, chopped thyme, pars- 
 W, and young onions. Put a piece on each .slash, and 
 some over the whole, and a dust of flour : then bake 
 it in a brisk oven, in a tin or iron dripping-pan. The 
 back shell, which is called the callipash, must be sea. 
 
FISH. 
 
 < r )l 
 
 soned like the cailipee, and baked in a dripping-pan. 
 set upright, with four brick-bats, or any thing of that 
 kind. An hour and a half will bake it, which must 
 be done before the stew be put in. The fins, when 
 boiled very tender, must be taken out of the soup, and 
 put into a stew-pan, with some good veal gravy, not 
 high coloured, a little Madeira wine, seasoned and 
 thickened as the callipash, and served in a dish by 
 itself. The lights, heart, and liver, may be done the 
 same way, but a little higher seasoned ; or the lights 
 and heart may be stewed with the callipash, and taken 
 out before you put it into the shell, with a little of the 
 sauce, adding a little more seasoning ; but dish it by 
 itself. The veal part may be made fricandos, or Scotcli 
 collops. The liver should never be stewed with the 
 callipash, but dressed by itself in any manner you like ; 
 except you separate the lights and heart from the cal- 
 lipash, and serve them together in one dish. Be care- 
 ful to strain the soup, and serve it in a tureen, or large 
 china bowl. The different dishes may be placed on 
 the table as follows : The cailipee at the head, the cal- 
 lipash at the bottom, and the lights, soup, fins, Ac. in 
 the centre. — The fins kept in the liquor will eat well 
 when cold. 
 
 Court Bouillon for all kinds of fresh Fish. 
 
 Put into your fish kettle, which must be according 
 to the size of your fish, some water, a quart of white 
 wine, a bit of butter, salt, pepper, a faggot of sweet 
 herbs, some stewed onions and carrots : boil your fish 
 in tHs liquor. 
 
52 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 ROASTING IN GENERAL. 
 
 SECT. I 
 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT. 
 
 THE first consideration of the cook in roasting must 
 be to regulate the strength of her lire in proportion to 
 the article she has to dress. If it is a small or thin 
 joint, the fire must be brisk, that it may be done quick ; 
 but if a large one, a substantial fire must be made, in 
 order that it may gradually receive the heat, and by 
 stirring up the fire, when it begins to burn up, and 
 keeping the bottom clear, the meat must be roasted 
 as it ought to be, and with little trouble to the cook. 
 Never put salt on your meat before you lay it to the 
 fire, as it will be apt to draw out the gravy. In roast- 
 ing Beef, if it be a large piece, skewer a sheet of writ- 
 ing paper over the fat, and baste it well while roasting. 
 When it is near enough, which you will know by the 
 smoke drawing to the fire, take off the paper, then 
 baste it well and dredge it with flour to make it frothy. 
 Mutton and Lamb must be roasted with a clear quick 
 fire. Veal requires particular care, and must be done 
 of a fine light brown colour. If it is a fillet or loin, put 
 paper over the fat, in the same manner as you do beef. 
 At first let it be some distance from the fire, and baste 
 it with butter : but when it is got thoroughly w arm 
 put it nearer, and when nearly done, dredge it with 
 flour. If a breast, put the caul over it, with the sweet- 
 bread skewered on the back, and, when sufficiently 
 done, take off the caul and dredge it with flour. Pork 
 as well as Veal should be well done, otherwise it will 
 nauseate : but mutton and beef, if a little underdone, 
 may be dispensed with. Wild Foivls must be roast- 
 ed with a clear, brisk fire, and when they are frothy, 
 and of a light brown colour, they are enough. Great 
 
ROASTING MEAT. 
 
 53 
 
 care must be taken not to overdo them, as the loss of 
 gravy will produce a want of the flavour. Tame 
 fowls require more roasting, and must be often basted, 
 in order to keep up a strong froth, which will make 
 them look well when brought to table. Pigs and 
 Geese must be done with a quick fire, turned quick, 
 and frequently basted. Hares and Rabbits require 
 time and care, otherwise the body will be done too 
 much/ and the ends too little. In roasting any article, 
 always allow longer time for it in frosty than in mild 
 weather, and take particular care that your spits are 
 thoroughly clean before you put on your meat, as no- 
 thing is more disagreeable than the mark of it left in 
 the flesh. 
 
 Having laid before the cook these necessary and gen- 
 neral observations in roasting, we shall now proceed to 
 give directions for dressing the respective articles un- 
 der this head ; beginning with 
 
 Beef. 
 
 The first steps to be taken in roasting Beef we have 
 already noticed in the foregoing observations. It re- 
 mains, therefore, only to say, that the time each joint 
 will take doing must be proportioned to its weight. If 
 a piece of ten pounds, it will take an hour and a half at 
 a good fire. Twenty pounds weight, if a thick piece, 
 will take three hours, but if thin, half an hour less ; and 
 so on in proportion to the weight. When done, take it 
 up, and put it into your dish. Serve it with potatoes, 
 horse-radish, and pickles for sauce, and garnish the rim 
 of the dish with horse-radish scraped very fine. 
 
 Mutton and Lamb. 
 
 Mutton and Lamb must be roasted with a quick 
 clear fire. Baste it as soon as you lay it down, sprinkle 
 on a little salt, and when near done, dredge it with 
 flour. A. leg of mutton of six pounds will take an hour 
 and a quarter, and one of twelve £wo hours ; a breast 
 half an hour at a quick fire : a neck an hour, and a shoul- 
 der much about the same time as a leg. In dress- 
 
64 
 
 ROASTING 
 
 ing the loin, the chine (which is the two loins) and the 
 saddle (which is the two necks and part of the shoulders 
 cut together) you must raise the skin, and skewer it on, 
 and when near done, take off the skin, and baste it to 
 froth it up. Send some good plain gravy up with it. 
 
 Haunch of Mutton dressed like Venison. 
 
 Take a hind-quarter of fine mutton, stale killed, and 
 cut the leg like a haunch. Lay it in a pan with the back 
 downwards, pour in a bottle of red wine, and let the 
 meat soak in it twenty-four hours. Before you spit it, 
 let it be covered with clean paper and paste as you do 
 venison, in order to preserve the fat. Roast it before a 
 quick fire, and keep basting with butter mixed with 
 some of the liquor in which it was soaked. When done, 
 serve it up with some good rich gravy in one boat, and 
 sweet sauce in another. It will take about three hours 
 roasting. 
 
 A Fore-quarter of House Lamb. 
 
 A small fore-quarter of house-lamb will take an hour 
 and a half roasting ; a leg three quarters of an hour. 
 When it is done, and put into the dish, cut off the 
 shoulder, and pepper and salt the ribs. Serve it up 
 with salad, broccoli, potatoes, or mint sauce. 
 
 Tongues or Udders. 
 
 Parboil the tongue before you put it down to 
 roast : stick eight or ten cloves about it, baste it with 
 butter, and serve it up with some gravy and sweet- 
 meat sauce. An udder may be roasted after the same 
 manner. You may also lard the tongue nicely, but 
 take care that the fire does not burn the larding. 
 
 Veal. 
 
 If your ffre is good, veal will take about a quarter of 
 an hour to each pound in roasting. The fat of the loin 
 and fillet must be covered with paper, as we have be- 
 fore observed. The fillet and shoulder must be stuffed 
 with the following savoury composition : a quarter of a 
 
MEAT. 
 
 65 
 
 pound of suet chopped fine, parsley and sweet herbs 
 chopped, grated bread, and lemon peel ; pepper, salt, 
 and a little nutmeg, and the yolk of an egg. Work 
 these all well together, and stuff them into your veal 
 as secure as you can, that it may not fall out while 
 roasting. The breast must be roasted with the caul 
 on till it is near enough ; then take it off, and flour and 
 baste the meat. When you have taken it up, and put 
 it into your dish, pour a little melted butter over it, and 
 serve it up with any of the following sauces ; potatoes, 
 brocoli, cucumbers stewed, French beans, peas, cauli- 
 flowers, celery stewed. Remember in dressing any 
 joint of veal that it is well done, but at the same time 
 let it not be too much. If it is not done enough it will 
 be too disgustful to enjoy, and if too much, the juices 
 will be lost, and the flesh eat tasteless. 
 
 Pork. 
 
 Pork, like veal, must be well done. If it is a loin, 
 take a sharp penknife, and cut the skin across, which 
 will not only make the joint more convenient to carve, 
 but will also make the rind or crackling more pleasant 
 to eat. A leg of pork must be scored in the same man- 
 ner as the loin ; if not particularly objected to, stuff 
 the knuckle part with sage and onion chopped fine, 
 with pepper and salt ; or cut a hole under the twist, 
 put the seasoning there, and fasten it with a skewer. 
 Roast it crisp, as it will make the crackling, of which 
 most people are fond, eat the better. If you want a 
 Spring, (which is not very common, though, at the 
 same time, if young, will eat exceeding well,) cut off 
 the shank, or knuckle, sprinkle sage and onion over it, 
 roll it round, and tie it with a string. About two 
 hours will do it. The Spare-rib should be basted 
 with a little bit of butter, a very little dust of flour, and 
 some dried sage shred small. The principal sauces for 
 any kind of roast pork are, potatoes, mustard, and 
 apple sauce, the latter of which you must make thus : 
 Pare, core, and slice some apples, and put them into a 
 sauce-pan with a little water, to prevent their burn- 
 
ROASTING 
 
 56 
 
 ing, and throw in a bit of lemon-peel. When they 
 are enough, take out the peel, bruise the apples, and 
 add a piece of butter and a little sugar. When you 
 hav e worked the whole together very fine, set it on the 
 fire till it is quite hot, then put it into your basin, and 
 serve it up with the meat. If it is a leg of pork, have 
 a little drawn gravy ready against it is done, and pour 
 it into the dish when you serve it up. The best way 
 of dressing Pork Grishin is to roast it, baste it with 
 a little butter and sage, and a little pepper and salt. 
 The only article used as sauce for this is mustard. 
 
 Sucking Pigs 
 
 When your pig is properly prepared for dressing, 
 nut into the belly of it a little sage shredded fine, with 
 borne salt, a tea-spoonful of black pepper, and a crust 
 of brown bread. Then spit it, sew up the belly, and 
 lay it down to a brisk clear fire, with a pig-plate hung 
 in the middle to prevent the body part being done be- 
 fore the extremities. As soon as it is warm, put a 
 piece of butter into a cloth, and frequently rub the pig 
 with it while roasting. When it becomes of a fine 
 brown, and the steam draws to the fire, rub it quite 
 dry with a clean cloth, and then with a bit of cold but- 
 ter, which will help to crisp it. Having taken it up, 
 and put it into your dish, cut off the head with a sharp 
 knife, and take off the collar, the ears, and the jaw- 
 bone. Split the jaw in two, and when you have cut 
 the pig down the back, which must be done before you 
 draw out the spit, lay the two sides with the back part 
 to each other, a jaw T on each side, and an ear on each 
 shoulder, and the collar on the shoulder. Have rea- 
 dy your sauce, which you must make in the following 
 manner : Having chopped the brains, put them in a 
 saucepan, with a tea-spoonful of w hite gravy, the gravy 
 that runs out of the pig, (which you must be careful to 
 save, by putting a basin or pan in the dripping-pan 
 under the pig as soon as the gravy begins to run,) and 
 a small piece of anchovy. Add to these half a pound 
 of butter, and as much dour as will thicken the gravy;, 
 
MEAT. 
 
 57 
 
 a slice of lemon, a spoonful of white wine, some caper 
 liquor, and a little salt. Shake it over the fire till it 
 is quite hot, then pour it into your dish with the pig, 
 and serve it up. You may likewise boil a few currants, 
 and send them in a tea-saucer, with a glass of currant 
 jelly in the middle. 
 
 As there may sometimes be a necessity for the cook's 
 killing the pig herself, it may not be improper to inform 
 her in that case how to proceed. Stick the pig just 
 above the breast-bone, and let the knife touch its heart, 
 otherwise it will be a long time dying. As soon as it 
 is dead, put it into cold water for a few minutes, and 
 rub it over with a little rosin beat exceeding fine, or 
 instead of that use its own blood, which will nearly 
 answer the same purpose. Let it lie half a minute in 
 a pail of scalding water, then take it out, lay it upon a 
 clean table, and strip off' all the hairs as fast as possible ; 
 but if they do not come clean off, put it into the hot 
 water again, and when it is perfectly clean off, wash it 
 in warm water, and then in two or three cold waters, 
 that, when dressed, it may not taste of the rosin. Take 
 oft’ the four feet at the first joints, slit it down the belly, 
 and take out all the entrails. Put the heart, liver, 
 lights, and pettitoes together : wash the pig well in cold 
 water, and having perfectly dried it with a cloth, hang 
 it up. When you dress it, proceed as before directed. 
 
 Calf's Head. 
 
 W hen you have thoroughly washed, and cleansed 
 it from the slime, take out the bones, and dry it well 
 in a cloth. Make a seasoning of beaten mace, pepper, 
 salt, nutmeg, and cloves, some bacon cut very small, 
 and some grated bread. Strew this over the head, roll 
 it up, skewer it, and tie it with tape. While roast- 
 ing, baste it with butter, and when done, having pre- 
 viously made a rich veal gravy, thickened with butter 
 rolled in flour, pour it over, and serve it to table. Some 
 like mushroom sauce, in which case make it as fol- 
 lows : Clean and wash a quart of fresh mushrooms, 
 cut them into pieces, and put them into a stew-pan. 
 No. 3. H 
 
ROASTING 
 
 58 
 
 with a little salt, a blade of mace, and a little butter. 
 Stew them gently for half an hour, and then add a 
 pint of cream, and the yolks of two eggs beaten up fine . 
 keep stirring it till it boils, then pour it into a boat, 
 and serve it up with the head. This is an excellent 
 sauce for fowls or turkeys. 
 
 Ham, or Gammon of Bacon. 
 
 Whichever you dress of these, take off the skin 
 or rind, and lay the meat in luke-warm water for two 
 or three hours.* Then put it into a pan, pour over it 
 a quart of Canary wine, and let it soak about half an 
 hour. When you have spitted it, put a sheet of clean 
 paper over the fat side, pour the Canary, in which it 
 was soaked, into the dripping-pan, and baste the meat 
 with it all the time it is roasting. When it is enough, 
 take off the paper, and dredge it well with crumbled 
 bread and parsley shred fine. Make the fire brisk, and 
 brown it well. If you serve it up hot, garnish with 
 raspings of bread ; but if cold for a second course, gar- 
 nish with green parsley. 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 ROASTING POULTRY. 
 
 Turkeys. 
 
 When your Turkey is properly trussed for dress- 
 ing, stuff it with the following ingredients : Take four 
 ounces of butter, or chopped suet, some grated bread, 
 a little lemon peel, parsley, and sweet herbs chopped 
 together, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, a little cream, and 
 the yolks of tw o or three eggs ; work these all well to- 
 gether, and fill the craw with it. Let your fire be very 
 brisk, and when you put it down paper the breast, and 
 let it continue on till near done ; then take it off, dredge 
 it with floiu, and keep basting it till it is done. If it is 
 a large turkey, serve it up with gravy alone, or brown 
 celery, or mushroom sauce. If it is a turkey-poult. 
 
POULTRY. 
 
 59 
 
 serve it up with gravy and bread sauce, the latter of 
 which make thus : Cut the crumby part of a penny 
 loaf into thin slices, put it into a saucepan with cold 
 water, a few pepper corns, a little salt, and an onion : 
 boil it till the bread is quite soft, and then beat it very 
 line : put it into a quarter of a pound of butter, with 
 two spoonsful of thick cream, and when it boils up, 
 pour it into a basin, or boat, and serve it up with the 
 turkey. A middling sized turkey will take more than 
 an hour, a small one three quarters of an hour, and a 
 very large one an hour and a half. In dressing these, 
 as well as fowls, always let your fire be clear and 
 brisk. 
 
 Fowls. 
 
 When your fowls are laid to the fire, singe them, 
 then baste them with butter, and dredge over some 
 flour. When the smoke begins to draw to the fire, 
 baste and dredge them again : let the fire be brisk, 
 and send them to table with a good froth. The pro- 
 per sauces for roast fow ls are, gravy, egg, mushroom, 
 or celery-sauce, the latter of which make thus : W ash 
 and pare a large bunch of celery very clean, cut it into 
 thin bits, and boil it gently in a little water till it is 
 tender : then add a little beaten mace, nutmeg, pep- 
 per, and salt, and thicken it with a large piece of but- 
 ter rolled in flour : then give it a boil, and serve it up in 
 a boat. To the water in wdiich you boil the celery 
 put a half pint of cream, which wall make it very rich 
 and substantial. This is an excellent sauce, not only 
 for fowls but also for partridges, or any other game of 
 the same kind. 
 
 Chickens. 
 
 Be particularly careful in drawing your chickens, 
 w T hich done, cut off their claw s, and truss them for 
 dressing. Put them dowm to a good fire, and singe, 
 dust, and baste them with butter. When they are 
 enough, froth them, and lay them in your dish. Serve 
 them up with parsley and butter poured over them, and 
 
ROASTING 
 
 60 
 
 gravy and mushroom sauce in boats. A large chicken 
 will "take half an hour, a small one twenty minutes. 
 
 Gb'een Geese. 
 
 When the goose is properly cleaned, and ready for 
 dressing, put into the body a large lump of butter, then 
 spit it, and lay it down to a brisk clear fire. Singe it, 
 dredge it with flour, and as soon as it begins to receive 
 the heat of the fire, baste it well with butter, which 
 will occasion the flesh to rise, and make it look well. 
 When you think it near enough, dredge it again with 
 flour : and baste it till the froth rises, and it is of a clear 
 light brown. When done, take it up, and put it into 
 your dish, having ready the following sauce : Melt 
 some butter, and put it into a spoonful of sorrel juice, a 
 little sugar, and a few scalded gooseberries. Pour it 
 into your sauce-boat, and send it up hot with the goose 
 to table. You may likewise add gravy and apple- 
 sauce, and garnish your dish with a crust of bread gra- 
 ted very fine. 
 
 A Stubble Goose 
 
 Take two onions, with a few leaves of sage wash- 
 ed clean, and chop them as fine as possible. Mix with 
 them a large piece of butter, some salt, and pepper. 
 Put this into the body of the goose, then tie both ends, 
 and put it down to the fire to roast. Singe and dredge it 
 with flour, and when it is thoroughly hot, baste it with 
 fresh butter. When near done dredge it again, 
 and keep basting it till the froth rises, and the steam 
 draws to the fire, then take it up, and put it into your 
 dish, pour a little boiling hot water over it, and serve 
 it up with good gravy-sauce in one boat, apple-sauce 
 in another, and mustard. 
 
 Ducks. 
 
 You must prepare them for the spit in the same 
 manner you do geese, by putting into the body some 
 sage and onion chopped fine, with pepper and salt. 
 When you lay them down, singe, dust, and baste them 
 
POULTRY. 
 
 61 
 
 with blitter, and a good fire will roast them in about 
 twenty minutes. Before yon take them up, dust them 
 with flour, and give them another basting with butter 
 to make them froth and look brown. Your gravy 
 must be made of the gizzard and pinions, with an onion, 
 a tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle, a few grains of pepper, 
 a large blade of mace, and a tea-spoonful of catsup. 
 When they are thoroughly ste wed, strain off the gravy, 
 put some into the dish with the ducks, and the remain- 
 der in a boat or basin. Wild ducks must be done in 
 the same manner. 
 
 Pigeons. 
 
 After you have drawn your Pigeons, and taken the 
 craws clean out, wash them in several waters. When 
 you have dried them, roll a good lump of butter in some 
 chopped parsley, and season it with pepper and salt. 
 Put this into your pigeons, then spit, dust with flour, 
 and baste them. When enough, serve them up with 
 parsley and butter for sauce, and, if in season, garnish 
 your dish with bunches of asparagus. A good fire will 
 roast them in twenty minutes. 
 
 Larks. 
 
 Take a dozen of Larks, put them on a skewer, and 
 tie both ends of the skewer to the spit. Dredge and 
 baste them, and in about ten or twelve minutes they 
 will be done. Make your sauce thus : take the crumb 
 of half a penny loaf, shred it very fine, and put it into 
 a stew-pan or frying pan, with a piece of butter about 
 the size of a walnut. Shake it over a gentle fire till 
 it is of a light brown, then lay it between your birds on 
 vour plate or dish, and pour a little melted butter over 
 them. 
 
 Rabbits. 
 
 When you have cased your rabbits, skewer their 
 heads upon their backs, their fore legs into their ribs, 
 and the hind legs double. Take the crumb of half a 
 penny loaf, a little parsley, thyme, sweet-marjorum, and 
 lemon-peel. Shred all these fine, and season them with 
 pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Mix them up into a light 
 
02 ROASTING 
 
 stuffing with two eggs, a little cream, and a quarter of 
 a pound of butter. Put this into their bellies, sew 
 them up, and dredge and baste them well with butter. 
 When done, take them up, chop the livers after boil- 
 ing, and lay them in lumps round the edge of your dish. 
 Serve them up with parsley and butter for sauce. 
 
 To roast a rabbit hare fashion, you must lard it with 
 bacon, and baste it in the same manner vou do a hare, 
 directions for which you w ill find in the next section. 
 If you lard it, make gravy sauce; if not, white sauce 
 will be most proper. 
 
 SECT. III. 
 
 ROASTING GAME. 
 
 Pheasants and Partridges . 
 
 The same methods are to be taken in dressing ei- 
 ther of these birds. When you have spitted and laid 
 them down, dust them with flour, and baste them often 
 with fresh butter, keeping them at a good distance 
 from the fire. About half an hom' will roast them. 
 Make your gravy of a scrag of mutton, and put into 
 the sauce-pan with it a tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle, 
 a large spoonful of catsup, and the same of brown- 
 ing.* Strain it, and put a little into the dish with the 
 birds. Serve them up with the remainder in one ba- 
 
 *As we shall have frequent occasion to mention the article brown- 
 ing, it will be necessary here to give proper directions how to make 
 it. — Beat small four ounces of treble refined sugar, and put it into a 
 frying pan with one ounce of butter. — Set it over a clear fire, and mix 
 it well together. When it begins to be frothy by the sugar dissolving, 
 hold it higher over the fire, and have ready a pint of red wine. When 
 the sugar and butter is of a deep brown, pour in a little of the wine, 
 and stir it well together ; then add more wine, and keep stirring it all 
 the time. Put in half an ounce of Jamaica pepper, six cloves, four 
 shalots peeled, two or three blades of mace, three spoonsful of 
 catsup, a little salt, and a rind of one lemon. Boil them slowly about 
 ten minutes, and then pour it into a basin. When cold, take off the 
 6cum very clean, and bottle it up for use. 
 
GAME. 
 
 03 
 
 sin, and bread sauce in another. By way of ornament 
 fix one of the principal feathers of the pheasant in its 
 tail. 
 
 Woodcocks or Snipes. 
 
 The se birds are so peculiar from all others, that 
 they must never be drawn. When you have spitted 
 them, take the round of a threepenny loaf, and toast 
 it nice and brown ; then lay it in a dish, under the 
 birds, and when you put them to the fire, baste them 
 with a little butter, and let the trail or gut drop on the 
 toast. When they are done, put the toast in a dish, 
 and lay the birds on it. Pour about a quarter of a pint 
 of gravy into the dish, and set it over a lamp or chafing- 
 dish for three or four minutes, and then take it hot to 
 table. A woodcock will take about twenty minutes 
 roasting, and a snipe fifteen. 
 
 Flares. 
 
 When your hare is cased and properly trussed for 
 dressing, make a stuffing thus : Take a large slice of 
 bread, and crumble it very fine, put to it a quarter of 
 a pound of beef marrow, or suet, the like quantity of 
 batter, the liver boiled and shred fine, a sprig or two of 
 winter savory, a bit of lemon-peel, an anchovy, a little 
 chyan pepper, and half a nutmeg grated. Mix these 
 well together with a glass of red wine and two eggs, 
 pat it into the belly of the hare and sew it up. When 
 you have spitted it, and laid it before the fire, put into 
 your dripping-pan a quart of milk, and keep basting 
 your hare with it till there is little left. When it is 
 nearly done, dredge it with Hour, and baste it with but- 
 ter till it is properly frothed. If it is a small hare it 
 will take about an hour and a half ; and if a large one 
 two hours. When done, put it into your dish, and 
 serve it up with plenty of good rich gravy, and some 
 currant-jelly warmed in a cup ; or red wine and sugar 
 done to a syrup thus : Take a pint of red wine, put it 
 into a quarter of a pound of sugar, set it over a slow 
 fire, and let it simmer for a quarter of an hour; then 
 take it off, and pour it into your sauce-boat or basin. 
 
64 ROASTING FISH. 
 
 Venison. 
 
 Take a haunch of venison, and when you have 
 spitted it, rub some butter all over it. Take torn 
 sheets of clean paper, well buttered, two of which put 
 on the haunch. Then make a paste with some flour, 
 a little butter and water ; roll it out half as big as your 
 haunch, and put it over the fat part ; cover this with 
 the other two sheets of paper, and tie them fast with 
 packthread. Lay it to a brisk fire, and baste it well 
 all the time it is roasting. When it is near done, take 
 off both paper and paste, dredge it well with flour, 
 and baste it with butter. As soon as it becomes of a 
 light brown, take it up, and serve it to table with 
 brown gravy, currant-jelly, or the syrup mentioned 
 in the preceding article for a hare. A haunch will 
 take about three hours roasting. 
 
 SECT. IY. 
 
 ROASTING FISH. 
 
 To roast Sturgeon. 
 
 Put a piece of butter rolled in flour into a stew-pan, 
 with salt, pepper, parsley, onions, sweet herbs, cloves, 
 half a pint of water, and a little vinegar. Stir it over the 
 fire, and when it is luke-warm take it off, and put your 
 stm’geon in to steep. When it has taken the flavour 
 of the herbs, roast it, and serve it up with any vege- 
 table sauce you think fit. 
 
 Roasted en Gras. 
 
 Lard it with fat bacon, roast it, and serve it with 
 a ragout of truffles, morels, mushrooms, veal, sweet- 
 bread, &c. 
 
 Lobsters. 
 
 When you have half boiled your lobster take it 
 out of the water, rub it well with butter, and lay it 
 before the fire ; continue basting it with butter till it 
 has a fine froth, and the shells look of a dark brown. 
 Then put it into your dish, and serve it up with plain 
 melted butter in a sauce-boat. 
 
66 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 BAKING. 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT. 
 
 THE only method to be observed previous to this 
 mode of cookery, is to have the pans, or whatever 
 vessels you send your provisions in to the oven, per- 
 fectly clean, so that the care you have taken in pre- 
 paring the article may not be injured from neglect in 
 cleanliness. 
 
 Rump of Beef a-la-Braise. 
 
 Cut out the bone quite clean, then beat the flesh 
 well with a rolling-pin, and lard it with a piece of 
 bacon cut out of the back. Season your bacon with 
 pepper, salt, and cloves, and lard across the meat, 
 that it may cut handsomer. Season the meat with 
 pepper, salt, and cloves ; put it into an earthen pot 
 with all tt e broken bones, half a pound of butter, 
 some bay leaves, whole pepper, one or two shalots, 
 and some sweet herbs. Let the top of the pan be 
 covered quite close, then put it into the oven, and it 
 will be done in about six hours. When enough, skim 
 oft’ the fat clean, put the meat into a dish, and serve 
 it up with a good ragout of mushrooms, truffles, force- 
 meat-balls, and yelks of eggs. Let the gravy which 
 comes from the beef be added, nicely seasoned, to 
 those ingredients. 
 
 Calf's Head. 
 
 When you have properly cleansed the head, put 
 it into a large earthen dish, or pan, and rub the inside 
 with butter. Put some long iron skewers across the 
 top of the dish, and lay the head on them. Grate 
 some nutmeg all over the head, with a few sweet 
 herbs shred small, some crumbs of bread, and a little 
 lemon-peel cut fine. Then flour it all over, stick 
 No. 3. I 
 
66 
 
 BARING MEAT. 
 
 pieces of butter in the eyes, and on different parts of 
 the head, and send it to the oven. You may throw 
 a little pepper and salt over it, and put into the dish 
 a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, a blade of mace, 
 some whole pepper, two cloves, and a pint of water, 
 and boil the brains with some sage. When the head 
 is enough, lay it on a dish, and put it before the fire 
 to keep warm ; then stir all together in the dish, and 
 put it into a saucepan, and when it is quite hot strain 
 it off, and pour it into the saucepan again. Put in a 
 piece of butter rolled in flour, the sage and brains 
 chopped fine, a spoonful of catsup, and two of red 
 wine. Boil them well together, pour the whole over 
 the head in a dish, and send it to table. 
 
 Pigs. 
 
 Lay your pig into a dish well buttered, flour it all 
 over, rub some butter on the pig, and send it to the 
 oven. When you think it is enough, take it out, rub 
 it over with a buttered cloth, and put it into the oven 
 again till it is dry ; then take it out, lay it in a dish, 
 and cut it up. Skim off the fat from the dish it was 
 baked in, and some good gravy will remain at the 
 bottom. Put this to a little veal gravy, with a piece 
 of butter rolled in flour, and boil it up w ith the brains ; 
 then pour it into a dish, and mix it well with the 
 sage that comes out of the belly of the pig. Serve it 
 up hot to table with apple-sauce and mustard. 
 
 A Bullock's or Calf's Heart. 
 
 Take some crumbs of bread, chopped suet, (or a 
 bit of butter,) parsley chopped, sweet marjoram, le- 
 mon-peel grated, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, with the 
 yolk of an egg ; mix these all well together, stuff the 
 heart with it, and send it to the oven. When done, 
 serve it up with gravy, melted butter, and currant- 
 jelly in boats. The same methods are to be used 
 whether you bake or roast it ; but if care is taken, 
 baking it is the best way, as it will be more regularly 
 done than it can be by roasting. 
 
BAKING FISH. 
 
 67 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 BAKING FISH. 
 
 Cod's Head. 
 
 When it is thoroughly cleansed and washed, lay 
 it in the dish, which you must first rub round with 
 butter. Put in a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion stuck 
 with cloves, three or four blades of mace, some black 
 and white pepper, a nutmeg bruised, a little lemon- 
 peel, a piece of horse-radish, and a quart of water. 
 Dust the head with flour, grate a little nutmeg over 
 it, stick bits of butter on various parts, and sprinkle 
 raspings all over it, and send it to the oven. When 
 done, take the head out of the dish, and put it into 
 that it is to be served up in. Set the dish over boil- 
 ing water, and cover it close to prevent its getting 
 cold. In the mean time, as expeditiously as you can, 
 pour all the liquor out of the dish in which it was 
 baked into a saucepan, and let it boil three or four 
 minutes : then strain it, and put to it a gill of red 
 wine, two spoonsful of catsup, a pint of shrimps, half 
 a pint of oysters, a spoonful of mushroom pickle, and 
 a quartern of butter rolled in flour. Stir all well to- 
 gether, and let it boil till it is thick ; then strain it, 
 and pour it into the dish. Have ready some toasted 
 bread cut three corner ways, and fried crisp. Stick 
 some pieces of toast about the head and mouth, and 
 lay the remainder round the head. Garnish your dish 
 with crisped parsley, lemon notched, and scraped 
 horse-radish. This method is equally good for 
 roasting. 
 
 Salmon 
 
 Take a piece of salmon, of five or six pounds 
 weight, (or larger according to your company,) and 
 cut it into slices about an inch thick, after which 
 make a forcemeat thus : Take some of the flesh of the 
 salmon, and the same quantity of the meat of an eej, 
 
68 
 
 BAKING 
 
 with a few mushrooms. Season it with pepper, salt, 
 nutmeg, and cloves, and beat all together till it is very 
 fine. JBoil the crumb of a roll in milk, and beat it up 
 with four eggs till it is thick ; then let it cool, add 
 four more raw 7 eggs to it, and mix the w hole well to- 
 gether. Take the skin from the salmon, and lay the 
 slices in a dish. Cover every slice with the forcemeat, 
 pour some melted butter over them, with a few crumbs 
 of bread, and place oysters round the dish. Put it into 
 the oven, and when it is of a fine browrn, pour over a 
 little melted butter with some red wine boiled in it, 
 and the juice of a lemon, and serve it up hot to table 
 
 Carp. 
 
 Take a brace of carp, and having greased the pan, 
 n W'hich they are to be baked, with butter, put them 
 tnto it. Let it be of such a size as will hold them at 
 full length, otherwise they will be apt to break. When 
 you have put them into the pan, season them with a 
 little black and w hite pepper, mace, cloves, nutmeg, 
 a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, and an anchovy : 
 then pour in a bottle of white wine, cover them close, 
 and put them into the oven. If of a large size they 
 will take an hour baking ; but if small, a less time will 
 do. When enough, take them out of the pan, and 
 lay them in a dish. Set it over boiling w ater to keep 
 it hot, and cover it close. Pour all the liquor in which 
 they were baked into a saucepan ; let it boil a minute 
 or tw 7 o, strain it, and add half a pound of butter roll- 
 ed in flour. Keep stirring it all the time it is boiling : 
 squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and put in a pro- 
 per quantity of salt, observing to skim all the fat off 
 the liquor. Pour the sauce over the fish, lay the roes 
 round them, and garnish with lemon. 
 
 Eels and Lampreys. 
 
 Cut off their heads, gut them, and take out the 
 blood from the bone as clean as possible. Make a 
 forcemeat of shrimps or oysters chopped small, half a 
 penny loaf crumbled, a little lemon-peel shred fine, the 
 
FISH. 
 
 69 
 
 yolks of two eggs, and a little salt, pepper, and nut- 
 meg. Put this into the bellies of the fish, sew them 
 up, and turn them round on the dish. Put flour and 
 butter over them, pour a little water into the dish, 
 and bake them in a moderate oven. When done, 
 take the gravy from under them, and skim off the fat, 
 strain it through a hair sieve, and add one tea-spoon- 
 fid of lemon-pickle, two of browning, a large spoonful 
 of walnut catsup, a glass of white wine, an anchovy, 
 and a slice of lemon. Let it boil ten minutes, and 
 thicken it with butter and flour. Garnish with lemon 
 and crisped parsley. 
 
 Herrings. 
 
 Scale, wash, and dry them well in a cloth, then 
 lay them on a board, and take a little black pepper, a 
 few cloves, and plenty of salt ; mix them together, and 
 rub the fish all over with it. Lay them straight in a 
 pot, cover them over with vinegar, put in a few bay- 
 leaves, tie a strong paper over the top, and bake them 
 in a moderate oven. They may be eat either hot or 
 cold ; and if you use the best vinegar, they will keep 
 good for two or three months. 
 
 Sprats may be done in the same manner, and either 
 of them will furnish an occasional and pleasing relish. 
 
 Turbot. 
 
 Take a dish about the size of the turbot, rub but- 
 ter thick all over it, throw on a little salt, a little bea- 
 ten pepper, half a large nutmeg, and some parsley 
 chopped fine. Pour in a pint of white wine, cut off 
 the head and tail, and lay the turbot in the dish ; pour 
 another pint of white wine all over, grate the other 
 half of the nutmeg over it, a little pepper, some salt, 
 and chopped parsley. Lay a piece of butter here and 
 there all over, then strew it with flour and crumbs of 
 bread, Being thus prepared, send it to the oven, and 
 let it be done of a fine brown colour. Wlien you take 
 it out, or have it home, put the turbot into the dish in 
 which you mean to serve it up, then stir the sauce in 
 
70 
 
 BAKING FISH. 
 
 the dish it was baked in, pour it into a saucepan, 
 shake in a little flour, let it boil, and then stir in a 
 piece of butter with two spoonsful of catsup. When 
 the whole boils, pour it into basins, and serve it up 
 with the fish. Garnish your dish with lemons : and you 
 may add what other sauce you fancy, as shrimps, an- 
 chovies, mushrooms, &c. 
 
 Pike, with forcemeat. 
 
 Prepare your pike thus : — Gut it, without cut- 
 ting it open, and take care it is well cleaned. Cut a 
 notch down the back from head to tail, turn it round, 
 and fasten the tail in the mouth. Make your force- 
 meat thus : Take the udder of a leg of veal, or the 
 kidney part of a loin of lamb, some fat bacon cut in 
 dice, the spawn or melt of the fish, some green onions, 
 a mushroom or two, or truffles, parsley and salt, and a 
 little nutmeg and pepper : add a bit of butter to fry 
 it chop it all well, with the crumb of a French roll 
 soaked in cream or milk. Pound all together in a 
 large mortar, with three or four eggs ; try if it is sea- 
 soned to your mind, fill the belly of your fish with it, 
 close up that part which was cut in the back, and make 
 it nice and even. Then take two or three eggs, beat 
 them up, daub the fish well over with it, and strew on 
 some crumbs of bread. Put it in a gentle oven, and 
 proportion the time according to the size of your fish. 
 When done use the following sauce : take two or three 
 ladles of good gravy, and add to it three large spoons- 
 ful of whole capers, some parsley chopped fine, the 
 juice of two lemons, and a little minced shalot. Pour 
 this into a boat or basin, and serve it up hot with 
 your fish. Garnish with fried parsley. A piper may 
 be baked the same as the pike. 
 
 Mackarcl. 
 
 Cut their heads plf, wash and dry them in a cloth, 
 cut them open, rub the bone with a little bay-salt! 
 beat fine : take some mace, black and white pepper! 
 and a few cloves, all beat fine ; lay them in a long 
 
7 
 
 BROILING MEAT, 4*C. 
 
 pan, and between every layer of fish put two or three 
 bay leaves, and cover them with vinegar. Tie writing 
 paper over them first, and then thick brown paper 
 doubled. They must be put into a very slow oven, 
 and will take a long time doing. When they are 
 enough, uncover them, and let them stand till they 
 are cold, then pour away all the vinegar they are 
 boiled in, cover them with some more vinegar, and put 
 in an onion stuck with cloves. Send them to a very 
 slow oven again, and let them stand two hours. When 
 completely done, put them aside, and they will keep 
 good a considerable time. When you take them out, 
 let it be with a slice, as your hands will be apt to 
 break and spoil them. They make a most excellent 
 occasional repast. 
 
 CHAPTER Y 
 
 BROILIJVG. 
 
 IN this mode of cooking, three things are to beprin 
 cipally observed. First, that your gridiron is tho 
 roughly clean, and your fire quite clear. Secondly, 
 that you turn your meat quick and often while broiling, 
 as it will be a means of preserving the juices. And, 
 thirdly, to have your dish placed on a chafing-dish of 
 hot coals, that by putting one piece after another into 
 it as they are done, the whole may be taken quite hot 
 to table. 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT and POULTRY. 
 
 Beef Steaks. 
 
 Let your steaks be cut off the rump of beef about 
 half an inch thick ; take care to have your fire clear, 
 and rub your gridiron well with beef suet. When it 
 is hot lay on your steaks : let them broil till the side 
 
72 
 
 BROILING 
 
 next the fire is brown ; then turn them, and when the 
 other side is brown, lay them on a hot dish, with a 
 slice of butter between each steak : sprinkle a little 
 pepper and salt over them, and let them stand two or 
 three minutes ; in the mean time slice a shalot as thin 
 as possible into a spoonful of water ; lay on your steaks 
 again, and keep turning them till they are enough ; then 
 put them on your dish, pour the shalot and water over 
 them, and send them to table. Add for sauce horse- 
 radish and pickles. Garnish with scraped horse-radish. 
 
 Mutton Steaks. 
 
 Cut your steaks about half an inch thick, and if it 
 be the loin, take off the skin with a part of the fat. 
 When your gridiron is hot, rub it with fresh suet, lay 
 on your steaks, and keep turning them as quick as 
 possible : if you do not take great care, the fat that 
 drops from them into the fire will smoke and spoil 
 them: but this may be in a great measure prevented, 
 by placing your gridiron on a slant. When enough 
 put them into a hot dish, rub them well with butter, 
 slice a shalot very thin into a spoonful of water, and 
 pour it on them, with a spoonful of catsup. Serve 
 them up hot, with scraped horse-radish and pickles. 
 
 Pork Chops. 
 
 In broiling these the same rules are to be observed 
 as those given for mutton chops, except with this dif- 
 ference, that they require more doing. When they 
 are enough, put a little good gravy to them : and in 
 order to give them an agreeable flavour, strew over 
 a little sage shred very fine. The only sauce is 
 mustard. 
 
 Ox Palates. 
 
 Prepare your palates for broiling thus : having 
 peeled them, put into a stew-pan a little butter rolled 
 in flour, salt, and pepper, two shalots, a clove of garlic, 
 two cloves, parsley, a laurel leaf, thyme, and as much 
 milk as will simmer your palates till tender. When 
 
73 
 
 MEAT, 4*C. 
 
 this is done, take them out, and rub over them the 
 yolks of eggs with bread crumbs ; then put them on 
 your gridiron, broil them slowly, and when enough 
 serve them up with sharp sauce. 
 
 Chickens. 
 
 Split your chickens down the back, season them 
 with pepper and salt, and lay them on the gridiron 
 over a clear fire, and at a great distance. Let the 
 insides continue next the fire till they are nearly half 
 done ; then turn them, taking care that the flesh)* 
 sides do not burn, and let them broil till they are of a 
 fine brown. Have ready good gravy sauce, with 
 some mushrooms, and garnish them with lemon and 
 the livers broiled ; the gizzards cut, slashed, and broil- 
 ed, with pepper and salt. Or you may make the fol- 
 lowing sauce : take a handful of sorrel, and dip it in 
 boiling water ; then drain it, and have ready half a 
 pint of good gravy ; a shalot shred small, and some 
 parsley boiled very green ; thicken it with a piece of 
 butter rolled in flour, and add a glass of red wine ; 
 then lay your sorrel in heaps round the chickens, and 
 pour the sauce over them. Garnish with sliced lemon. 
 
 Pigeons. 
 
 Pigeons may be broiled either whole or slit, and 
 must be done very slowly over a clear fire. If you 
 broil them whole, take some parsley shred fine, a 
 piece of butter as big as a walnut, with a little pepper 
 and salt, and put into then* bellies, tying both ends 
 with a bit of coarse thread. If you split them, season 
 the inside with pepper and salt ; and when done, 
 serve them up with parsley and butter poured over 
 them. They will be quicker done by being slit : but 
 the best method is to broil them whole. 
 
 No. 4. K 
 
74 
 
 BROILING 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 BROILING FISH. 
 
 Fresh Salmon. 
 
 Cut some slices from a fresh salmon, and wipe them 
 clean and dry ; then melt some butter smooth and fine, 
 with a little flour and basket salt. Put the pieces ot 
 salmon into it, and roll them about, that they may be 
 covered all over with butter. Then lay them on a nice 
 clean gridiron, and broil them over a clear but slow 
 fire. While the salmon is broiling make your sauce 
 thus : take two anchovies, wash, bone, and cut them 
 into small pieces, and cut a leek into three or four long 
 pieces. Set on a saucepan with some butter and a little 
 flour, put in the anchovies and leek, with some capers 
 cut small, some pepper and salt, and a little nutmeg ; 
 add to them some warm water, and two spoonsful of 
 vinegar, shaking the saucepan till it boils ; and then 
 keep it on the simmer till you are ready for it. When 
 the salmon is done on one side, turn it on the other till 
 it is quite enough ; then take the leek out of the sauce, 
 pour it into a dish, and lay the broiled salmon upon it. 
 Garnish with lemons cut in quarters. 
 
 Dried Salmon. 
 
 Lay your dried salmon in soak for two or three 
 hours, then lay it on the gridiron, and shake over it a 
 little pepper. It will take but a short time, and when 
 done serve it up with melted butter. 
 
 Cod. 
 
 Cut the cod into slices about two inches thick, and 
 dry and flour them well. Make a good clear fire, rub 
 the gridiron with a piece of chalk, and set it high from 
 fire. Then put in your slices of fish, turn them 
 } V't them brown till they are of a fine brown 
 colour. Great care must be taken in turning them that 
 they do not break. When done serve them up with 
 lobster and shrimp sauce. 
 
PISH. 
 
 75 
 
 Crimped Cod. 
 
 Take a gallon of spring water, put it into a sauce- 
 pan over the fire, and throw in a handful of salt. Boil 
 't up several times, and keep it clean scummed. When 
 t is well cleared from the scum, take a middling sized 
 tod, as fresh as possible, and put it into some fresh 
 oump water. Let it lie a few minutes, and then cut 
 t into slices about two inches thick. Throw these into 
 the boiling brine, and let them boil briskly a few mi- 
 nutes. Then take the slices out with great care that 
 they may not break, and put them on a sieve to drain. 
 When they are well dried, flour them, and lay them 
 at a distance upon a very good fire to broil. When 
 enough serve them up with lobster, shrimp, or oyster 
 sauce. 
 
 Cod Sounds. 
 
 Lay them a few minutes in hot water; then take 
 them out, rub them well with salt, and take off the 
 skin and black dirt, that they may look white. After 
 this put them into water, and give them a boil, then 
 take them out, flour them well, strew on some pepper 
 and salt, and lay them on the gridiron. When enough 
 lay them on your dish, and pour over them melted 
 butter and mustard. 
 
 Trout. 
 
 When you have properly cleansed your fish, and 
 made it thoroughly dry with a cloth, tie it round with 
 packthread from head to tail, in order to preserve its 
 shape entire. Then melt some butter, with a good 
 deal of basket salt, and pour it all over the trout till it 
 is perfectly covered : after lying in it a minute or two, 
 take it out, and put it on the gridiron over a clear fire, 
 that it may do gradually. For sauce wash and bone 
 an anchovy, and cut it very small ; chop a large spoon- 
 ful of capers ; melt some butter, with a little flour, pep- 
 per, salt and nutmeg, and put it into the anchovy and 
 capers, with half a spoonful of vinegar. When the 
 trout is done lay it in a warm dish, pour your sauce 
 boiling hot over it, and send it to table. 
 
76 
 
 BROILING 
 
 Mackarel. 
 
 Wash them clean, cut off their heads, and take 
 out the roes at the neck end. Boil the roes in a little 
 water ; then bruise them with a spoon, beat up the 
 yolk of an egg, with a little nutmeg ; a little lemon- 
 peel cut fine, some thyme, parsley boiled and chopped 
 fine, a little salt and pepper, and a few crumbs of 
 bread. Mix these well together, and put it into the 
 bellies of the fish ; then flour them well, and broil them 
 nicely. Let your sauce be melted butter, with a little 
 catsup or walnut pickle. 
 
 Mackarel a-la-Maitre d? Hotel. 
 
 Broil your Mackarel whole : the sauce is sweet 
 herbs, chopped fine, in melted butter. 
 
 Haddocks and Whitings. 
 
 When you have gutted and clean washed them, 
 dry them well in a cloth, and rub a little vinegar over 
 them, which will prevent the skin from breaking. 
 Having done this, dredge them well with flour, and 
 before you put them on, rub the gridiron well with 
 beef suet. Let your gridiron be very hot when you 
 lay your fish on, otherwise they will stick to it, and 
 the fish be broke in turning. While they are broiling, 
 turn them two or three times, and when enough serve 
 them up with plain melted butter, or shrimp sauce. 
 
 Another, and indeed a very excellent method of 
 broiling these fish is thus : when you have cleaned and 
 dried them as before-mentioned, put them into a tin 
 oven, and set them before a quick fire. As soon as 
 the skins begin to rise, take them from the fire, and 
 having beat up an egg, rub it over them with a fea- 
 ther. Sprinkle a few crumbs of bread over them, 
 dredge them well with flour, and rub your gridiron, 
 when hot, with suet or butter. Lay on your fish, 
 and when you have turned them, rub over a little 
 butter, and keep turning them till they are done, 
 which will be known by their appearing of a nice 
 
FISH. 
 
 77 
 
 brown colour ; when done, serve them up either with 
 shrimp sauce, or plain melted butter, and garnish with 
 melted butter or red cabbage. 
 
 Eels. 
 
 Having skinned, cleansed, and dried your eels, 
 rub them with the yolk of an egg ; strew over them 
 some crumbs of bread, chopped parsley and sage, and 
 season them with pepper and salt. Baste them well 
 with butter, and then put them on the gridiron over a 
 clear fire. When done, serve them up with melted 
 butter and parsley. 
 
 Eels pitch-cocked. 
 
 Take a large eel, and scour it well with salt, to 
 clean off the slime ; then slit it down the back, take 
 out the bone, and cut it into three or four pieces. Take 
 the yolk of an egg, and put it over the inside, sprinkle 
 on crumbs of bread with some sweet herbs and pars- 
 ley chopped very fine, a little nutmeg grated, and some 
 pepper and salt mixed together. Then put it on a 
 gridiron over a clear fire, broil it of a fine light brown, 
 and when enough, serve it up with anchovy sauce, 
 and parsley and butter. Garnish with raw parsley 
 and horse-radish. 
 
 Another method of pitch- cocking eels is, when you 
 have gutted, cleansed, and properly dried them, sprin- 
 kle them with pepper, salt, and a little dried sage, turn 
 them backward and forward, and skewer them. Rub 
 your gridiron with beef suet, broil them a good brown, 
 and when done, put them into your dish, and serve 
 them up with plain melted butter for sauce. Garnish 
 your dish with fried parsley. 
 
 Herrings. 
 
 Scale, gut, and cut off their heads; wash them 
 clean, and dry them in a cloth ; then dust them well 
 with flour, and broil them. Take the heads, mash 
 them, and boil them in small beer or ale, with a little 
 whole pepper and onion. When it is boiled a quarter 
 
FRYING 
 
 78 
 
 of an hour strain it off, thicken it with butter and flour, 
 and a good deal of mustard. Lay the herrings, when 
 done, in a plate or dish, pour the sauce into a boat, 
 and serve them up. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 FRYING. 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT. 
 
 Venison. 
 
 CUT your meat into slices, and make gravy of 
 the bones. Fry it of a nice brown, and when done 
 take it up, and keep it hot before the fire. Then put 
 some butter, well rolled in flour, into the pan, and keep 
 stirring it till it is quite thick and brown ; but be care- 
 ful that it does not burn. Stir in half a pound of 
 fine sugar beat to powder, put in the gravy made from 
 the bones, and some red wine. Make it the thick- 
 ness of a fine cream ; squeeze in the juice of a lemon, 
 warm the venison in it, put it in the dish, and pour the 
 sauce over it. 
 
 Veal Cutlets. 
 
 Cut your veal into slices of a moderate thickness, dip 
 them in the yolk of eggs beat up fine, and strew over 
 them crumbs of bread, a few sweet herbs, some lemon- 
 peel, and a little grated nutmeg. Then put them into 
 your pan, and fry them with fresh butter. While they 
 are frying, make a little good gravy, and when the 
 meat is done, take it out, and lay it in a dish before 
 the fire. Shake a little flour into the pan, and stir it 
 round ; put in the gravy, with the juice of a lemon, 
 stir the whole well together, and pour it over the cut- 
 lets. Garnish your dish with sliced lemon. 
 
79 
 
 MEAT, t$»C. 
 
 Neck or Loin of Lamb. 
 
 Cut your lamb into chops, rub both sides with the 
 yolk of an egg, and sprinkle over them some crumbs 
 of bread, mixed with a little parsley, thyme, marjo- 
 ram, winter savory, and a little lemon-peel, all chop- 
 ped very fine. Fry them in butter till they are of a 
 nice light brown, then put them into your dish, and 
 garnish with crisped parsley. Or you may dress 
 them thus : 
 
 Put your steaks into the pan with half a pint of ale, 
 and a little seasoning, and cover them close. When 
 enough take them out of the pan, lay them in a plate 
 before the fire to keep hot, and pour all out of the pan 
 into a basin ; then put in half a pint of white wine, 
 a few capers, the yolks of two eggs beat fine, with a lit- 
 tle nutmeg and salt ; add to this the liquor they were 
 fried in, and keep stirring it one way all the time till 
 it is thick ; then put in the chops, keep shaking the 
 pan for a minute or two, lay the chops in the dish, and 
 pour the sauce over them. Garnish with crisped pars- 
 ley and lemon. 
 
 Sweetbreads. 
 
 Cut them into long slices, beat up the yolk of an 
 egg, and rub it over them with a feather. Make a 
 seasoning of pepper, salt, and grated bread, strew this 
 over them, and fry them in butter. Serve them up 
 with melted butter and catsup, and garnish with 
 crisped parsley, and very small thin slices of toasted 
 bacon. 
 
 Calf's Brains. 
 
 Cut the brains into four pieces, and soak them in 
 broth and white wine, with two slices of lemon put 
 into it, a little pepper and salt, thyme, laurel, cloves, 
 parsley, and shaiots. When they have remained in this 
 about half an hour take them out, and soak them in 
 batter made of white wine, a little oil, and a little salt, 
 and fry them of a fine colour. You may likewise strew 
 
FRYING 
 
 80 
 
 over them crumbs of bread mixed with the yolks of 
 eggs. Serve them up with plain melted butter, and 
 garnish with parsley. 
 
 Beef Steaks. 
 
 Fry your steaks over a brisk fire, with a little but- 
 ter in the pan, and when they are of a nice light 
 brown take them out, and put them in a dish before 
 the fire. Then take half a pint of hot gravy, and put 
 it into the pan with a little pepper and salt, and two 
 or three shalots chopped fine. Boil them up in the 
 pan for two or three minutes, and then pour the whole 
 over the steaks. Garnish with scraped horse-radish. 
 
 Ox Tongues. 
 
 When you have boiled the tongue till it is ten- 
 der, cut it into slices, and season them with a little 
 nutmeg, cinnamon, and sugar. Then beat up the yolk 
 of an egg with a little lemon-juice, and rub it over 
 the slices with a feather. Make some butter boiling 
 hot in the frying-pan, and then put in the slices. When 
 done serve them up with melted butter, sugar, and 
 white wine, all well mixed together. 
 
 Ox Feet, or Cow-Heel. 
 
 Split the feet asunder, then take out all the bones, 
 and put the meat into the frying-pan with some but- 
 ter. When it has fried a few minutes, put in some 
 mint and parsley shred small, a little salt and some 
 beaten butter. Add likewise the yolks of two eggs 
 beat fine, half a pint of gravy, the juice of a lemon or 
 orange, and a little nutmeg. When the foot is done, 
 take it out, put it into your dish, and pour the sauce 
 over it. 
 
 Tripe. 
 
 Cut your tripe into pieces about three inches 
 square, dip them in some small beer batter, or yolks 
 of eggs, and have a good quantity of mutton or beef 
 dripping in your pan. Fry it till it is of a nice light 
 brown, then take it out, let it drain for a minute, put 
 it into your dish, and serve it up with plain melted but- 
 ter in a boat, and mustard. 
 
8 
 
 MEAT, #C. 
 
 Sausages. 
 
 The mode of frying sausages is so simple, and ge- 
 nerally known, that it needs no description. Hov 
 ever, we shall notice one way of which the cook m; 
 not be informed. Take six apples, and slice four t 
 them as thick as a crown piece : cut the other two inf 
 quarters, and take the cores clean out. Fry the slic 
 with the sausages till they are of a nice light brow 
 colour. When done put the sausages into the middlt 
 of the dish, and the apples round them. Garnish 
 with the apples quartered. 
 
 Chickens. 
 
 Cut your chickens into quarters, and rub them 
 with the yolk of an egg ; then strew on some crumbs 
 of bread, with pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and le- 
 mon-peel, and chopped parsley. Fry them in butter, 
 and when done put them into your dish before the fire. 
 For sauce thicken some gravy with a little flour, and 
 put into it a small quantity of chyan pepper, some 
 mushroom powder or catsup, and a little lemon-juice. 
 When it is properly heated, porn- it over the chickens, 
 and serve it up. 
 
 Artichoke Bottoms. 
 
 Blanch them in water, then flour them, and 
 fry them in fresh butter. Lay them in your dish, and 
 pour melted butter over them for sauce. Or you 
 may put a little red wine into the butter, and season 
 with nutmeg, pepper, and salt. 
 
 Celery. 
 
 Take six or eight heads of fresh celery, and cut 
 off the green tops with the outside stalks. Wash 
 them well and have the roots clean. Have ready a 
 pint of white wine, the yolks of three eggs beat fine, 
 and a little salt and nutmeg. Mix all well together 
 with flour, and make it into a batter, then dip every 
 head into it, put them into a pan, and fry them with 
 butter. When enough lay them in your dish, and 
 pour melted butter over them for sauce. 
 
 No. 4. L 
 
82 
 
 FRYING 
 
 Potatoes 
 
 Cut your potatoes into thin slices, and fry them 
 in butter till they are nicely brown. Then lay them in 
 a dish or plate, and pour melted butter over them for 
 sauce. 
 
 Potatoes are likewise fried by the French in batter, 
 and served up with powdered sugar thrown over them. 
 You must fry all your batter in sweet oil or hog's 
 lard. Any kind of fruit may be fried in the same 
 manner, and served up as a corner dish in the second 
 course. 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 FRYING FISH. 
 
 Asa necessary prelude to our directions for frying 
 fish, it may not be improper to make the few following 
 general observations : When you fry any kind of fish, 
 first dry them in a cloth, and then flour them. Put 
 into your frying-pan plenty of dripping or hog’s lard, 
 and let it boil before you put it into a dish. When 
 they are properly fried, lay them in a dish, or hair 
 sieve, to drain. If you fry parsley, be sure to pick it 
 very cautiously, wash it well, dip it into cold water, 
 and throw it into a pan of boiling fat. This will make 
 it very crisp, and of a fine green, provided you do not 
 let it remain too long in the pan ; but this you may 
 prevent by its appearance while doing. 
 
 Turbot. 
 
 Hav ing properly cleansed your fish (which in this 
 mode of dressing must be small) and thoroughly dried 
 it, strew on some flour, and put it into your pan, with 
 a sufficient quantity of hot lard to cover it. When it 
 is fried nice and brown, take it carefully out, and tho- 
 roughly drain the fat from it. In the meantime clean 
 the pan, put into it as much claret and white wine as 
 will nearly cover the fish, with an anchovy, salt, nut- 
 meg, and a little ginger. Put in the turbot, and 
 let it remain in the liquor till it is half wasted ; then 
 
FISH. 
 
 83 
 
 take it out, and put in a piece of butter rolled in flour, 
 and a minced lemon. Let them simmer together till 
 of a proper thickness, then rub a hot dish with a 
 piece of shalot, lay the turbot in the dish, pour over 
 the sauce, and serve it up. You may likewise add 
 plain melted butter in a basin. 
 
 Carp. 
 
 After having cleansed your fish, lay them in a 
 cloth to dry, then flour them, put them into the pan, 
 and fry them of a light brown. Take some crusts of 
 bread, cut them three corner ways, and fry them with 
 the roes of the fish. When your fish are nicely fried, 
 lay them on a coarse cloth to drain, and prepare an- 
 chovy sauce with the juice of a lemon. Lay your 
 carp in the dish, with the roes on each side, and gar- 
 nish with the fried crust, and slices of lemon. 
 
 Tench. 
 
 Split the fish along the backs, and raise the flesh 
 from the bone : then cut the skin across at the head 
 and tail, strip it clean off, and take out the bone. 
 Having thus prepared them for frying, take one of 
 them, and mince the flesh very small, with mush- 
 rooms, chives, and parsley chopped fine ; a little salt, 
 pepper, beaten mace, nutmeg, and a few savory herbs. 
 Mix these well together, then pound them in a mor- 
 tar and crumbs of bread soaked in cream, the yolks 
 of three or four eggs, and a piece of butter; and with 
 this composition stuff your fish. Put clarified butter 
 into your pan, set it over the fire, and when it is 
 hot strew some flour on your fish, and put them in one 
 by one. When they have fried till they are of a nice 
 brown colour, take them up, and lay them in a coarse 
 cloth before the fire to keep hot. Then pour all the 
 fat out of the pan, put in a quarter of a pound of but- 
 ter, and shake in some flour. Keep it sirring with 
 a spoon till the butter is a little brown, and then put 
 in half a pint of white wine. Stir them together, 
 and put in half a pint of boiling water, an onion 
 shred with cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, and two 
 
84 FRYIN® 
 
 blades of mace. Cover these close, and let them stew 
 as gently as you can for a quarter of an hour, then 
 strain olf the liquor, and put them into the pan again, 
 adding two spoonsful of catsup, an ounce of truffles 
 or morels boiled tender in half a pint of water, a few 
 mushrooms, and half a pint of oysters, washed clean 
 in their own liquor. When your sauce is properly heat- 
 ed, and has a good flavour, put in your tench, and let 
 them lay in it till they are thoroughly hot ; then take 
 them out, lay them in your dish, and pour the sauce 
 over them. Garnish with sliced lemon. The same 
 methods may be used in frying of carp. 
 
 Soles. 
 
 Take off the skin, rub the fish over with the yolk 
 of an egg, and strew on some crumbs of bread. Fry 
 them in hog s lard over a brisk fire, till they are of a 
 fine light brown. Then take them up, drain them, 
 put them into your dish, and serve them up with plain 
 melted butter in a boat. Garnish with green pickles. 
 
 Smelts. 
 
 Be careful to take away the gills, but leave in the 
 roes. After you have washed them, dry them well in 
 a cloth, then beat up an egg very fine, rub it over them 
 with a feather, and strew on crumbs of bread. Fry 
 them in hogs lard over a brisk fire, and put them 
 in when the fat is boiling hot. When they are 
 done of a fine brown, take them out, and drain the fat 
 from them, and when you dish them up, put a basin 
 with the bottom upwards, into the middle of your 
 dish, and lay the tails of your fish on the side of it. 
 Garnish with fried parsley. 
 
 Eels. 
 
 After having properly cleaned them, and taken 
 off the heads, cut them into pieces, season them with 
 pepper and salt, strew on some flour, and fry them till 
 they are of a fine brown colour. Drain them properly 
 before you lay them in the dish. Serve them up with 
 melted butter and the juice of a lemon squeezed into 
 it. Garnish with crisped parsley. 
 
FISH. 
 
 85 
 
 Lampreys. 
 
 When you cut them open to clean them, be care- 
 ful to save the blood, and wash them thoroughly clean 
 in warm water. Fry them in clean dripping, and 
 when nearly enough, put out the fat, put a little white 
 wine, and give the pan a shake round. Throw a lit- 
 tle pepper, with some sweet herbs, a few capers, a 
 piece of butter rolled in flour, and the blood you saved 
 from the fish. Cover the pan close, and shake it 
 often. When they are enough, take them out, strain 
 the sauce, put it into the pan again, and give it a quick 
 boil. Squeeze in the juice of a lemon, stir all together, 
 and when it is just upon the boil, pour it over the fish, 
 and serve it up. Garnish with sliced lemon. 
 
 Mullets. 
 
 Score the fish across the back, and dip them in 
 melted butter. Fry them in butter clarified, and when 
 enough, lay them on a warm dish. Serve them up 
 with plain melted butter or anchovy sauce. 
 
 Herrings. 
 
 First scrape off all the scales, then wash them 
 dry them well in a cloth, and dredge them with flour. 
 Fry them in butter over a brisk fire, and when done, 
 set their tails up one against another in the middle of 
 the dish. Fry a large handful of parsley crisp, take 
 >t out before it loses its colour ; lay it round the fish, 
 and serve them up with melted butter, parsley, and 
 mustard. 
 
 Oysters. 
 
 The largest oysters you can get should be chosen 
 for frying. When you have properly cleaned and rin- 
 sed them, strew over them a little grated nutmeg, a 
 blade of mace pounded, a spoonful of flour, and a lit- 
 tle salt. Dip your oysters singly into this, and fry 
 them in hog's lard till they are of a nice brown co- 
 lour. Then take them out of the pan, pour them into 
 your dish, and pour over them a little melted butter, 
 with crumbs of bread mixed. 
 
86 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 STEWING. 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT. 
 
 Fillet of Veal. 
 
 TAKE the fillet of a cow- calf, stuff it well under 
 the udder, and at the bone end quite through to the 
 shank. Put it into the oven, with a pint of water 
 under it, till it is of a fine brown ; then put it into a 
 stew-pan, with three pints of gravy. Stew it till it is 
 tender, and then put a few morels, truffles, a tea- 
 spoonful of lemon-pickle, a large one of browning, one 
 of catsup, and a little chyan pepper. Thicken it with 
 a lump of butter rolled in flour. Take out your veal 
 and put it into your dish, then strain the gravy, pour 
 it over, and lay round forcemeat balls. Garnish with 
 sliced lemon and pickles. 
 
 Breast of Veal. 
 
 Put a breast of veal into the stew-pan, with a lit- 
 tle broth, a glass of white wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, 
 a few mushrooms, two or three onions, with some pep- 
 per and salt. Stew it over a gentle fire till it is ten- 
 der ; and when done strain and scum the sauce. Gar- 
 nish with forcemeat balls. 
 
 Knuckle of Veal. 
 
 Lay at the bottom of your saucepan four wooden 
 skewers cross ways, then put in the veal, with two or 
 three blades of mace, a little whole pepper, a piece of 
 thyme, a small onion, a crust of bread, and two quarts 
 of water. Cover it down close, make it boil, and then 
 only let it simmer for two hours. When enough, take 
 it up, put it into your dish, and strain the liquor 
 over it. Garnish with lemon. 
 
STEWING MEAT. 
 
 87 
 
 Neck of Veal. 
 
 Lard it with large pieces of bacon rolled in pepper 
 and shalots and spices. Put it into your stew-pan with 
 about three pints of broth, two onions, a laurel leaf, 
 and a little brandy. Let" it simmer gently till it is ten- 
 der, then put it into your dish, take the scum clean oil' 
 the liquor, and then pour it on the meat. 
 
 Calf 's Head . 
 
 After having properly cleaned the head, put it into 
 cold water, and let it lie for an hour ; then carefully 
 take out the brains, the tongue, the eyes, and the bones. 
 Then take a pound of veal, and a pound of beef suet, 
 a very little thyme, a good deal of lemon-peel minced, 
 a nutmeg grated, and two anchovies ; chop all very fine, 
 then grate two stale rolls, and mix the whole together 
 with the yolks of four eggS : save enough of this to 
 make about twenty balls. Take half a pint of fresh 
 mushrooms, clean peeled and washed, the yolks of six 
 eggs, beat fine, half a pint of oysters clean washed, or 
 pickled cockles ; mix these all together, after first stew- 
 ing your oysters. Put the forcemeat into the head 
 and close it, tie it tight with packthread, and put it into 
 a deep stew-pan, with two quarts of gravy and a blade 
 or two of mace. Cover it close, and let it stew two 
 hours. In the meantime, beat up the brains with some 
 lemon-peel cut fine, a little parsley chopped, half a nut- 
 meg grated, and the yolk of an egg. Have some drip- 
 ping boiling, and fry half the brains in little cakes ; fry 
 all the forcemeat balls, and keep them both hot by the 
 fire. Take half an ounce of truffles and morels, then 
 strain the gravy the head was stewed in, and put the 
 truffles and morels to it, with a fe w mushrooms. Boil 
 all together, then put in the rest of the brains, stew 
 them together for a. minute or two, pour the whole over 
 the head, and lay the cakes of fried brains and force- 
 meat balls round it. Garnish with lemons. For a 
 small family, the half of a head may be done equally 
 fine, only properly proportioning the quantity of the 
 
88 
 
 STEWING 
 
 respective articles. — A lamb's head must be done in 
 the very same manner. 
 
 Calf's Liver. 
 
 Lard the liver, and put it into a stew-pan, with 
 some salt, whole pepper, a bunch of sweet herbs, an 
 onion, and a blade of mace. Let it stew till tender, 
 then take it up, and cover it to keep hot. Strain the 
 liquor it was .stewed in, scum oif all the fat, thicken it 
 with a piece of butter rolled in flour, and pour it over 
 the liver. 
 
 Rump of Beef 
 
 Half roast your beef, then put it into a stew-pan, 
 with two quarts of w ater, and one of red wine, two or 
 three blades of mace, a shalot, one spoonful of lemon- 
 pickle, two of w alnut catsup, and the same of brown- 
 ing. Put in chyan pepper and salt to your taste. Cover 
 it close, and let it stew 7 over a gentle fire for two hours ; 
 then take up your beef, and lay it in a deep dish, scum 
 off the fat, and strain the gravy ; put in an ounce of 
 morels, and half a pint of mushrooms ; thicken your 
 gravy, and pour it over the beef. Garnish with force- 
 meat balls and horse-radish. 
 
 Beef Steaks. 
 
 Pepper and salt your steaks, and lay them in a 
 stew-pan. Put in half a pint of w T ater, a blade or two 
 of mace, an anchovy, a small bunch of herbs, a piece 
 of butter rolled in flour, a glass of white wine, and an 
 onion. Cover the w hole close, and let it stew till the 
 steaks are tender ; then take them out, strew some 
 flour over them, fry them in fresh butter till they are 
 of a nice brown, and then pour off all the fat. Strain 
 the sauce they w ere stew r ed in, pour it into the pan, 
 and toss it up all together till the sauce is quite hot 
 and thick. Then lay your steaks in the dish, pour 
 the sauce over them, and garnish with horse-radish 
 and pickles. 
 
 Beef Gobbets. 
 
 Take any piece of beef, except the leg, cut it into 
 small pieces, and put them into a stew-pan. Cover 
 
MEAT. 
 
 89 
 
 them with water, and when they have stewed an hour, 
 put in a little mace, cloves, and whole pepper, tied 
 loosely in a muslin rag, with some celery cut small. 
 Then add some salt, turnips and carrots pared and cut 
 in slices, a little parsley, a bunch of sweet herbs, a large 
 crust of bread, and an ounce either of barley or rice. 
 Cover it close, and let it stew till it is tender. Then 
 take out the herbs, spices, and bread, and have ready 
 a French roll nicely toasted and cut into four parts. 
 Put these into your dish, pour in the meat and sauce, 
 and send it hot to table. 
 
 Neat's Tongue. 
 
 Put the tongue into your stew-pan with a sufficient 
 quantity of water to cover it. When it has stewed 
 about two hours, take it out, peel it, and put it in 
 again, with a pint of strong gravy, half a pint of white 
 wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, a little pepper and salt, 
 some mace, cloves, and whole pepper, tied in a muslin 
 rag ; add likewise a spoonful of capers chopped fine, 
 some turnips and carrots sliced, and a piece of butter 
 rolled in flour. Let the whole stew together very 
 gently for two hours ; then take out the spice and 
 sweet herbs, put the tongue into your dish, strain the 
 sauce, pour it over, and serve it up. 
 
 To dress Ox Palates. 
 
 Having cleansed and boiled your palates, take off 
 the skin, and pick out all that part that is black, and 
 cut them in bits : turn some onions a few times over 
 the fire with a bit of butter, and when it is half done 
 put it in the palates. Moisten your ragout with some 
 good broth, and a little eullis ; season it to your taste, 
 and add a bunch of sweet herbs : when it is well skim- 
 med, and the sauce of a proper consistence, put in a 
 little mustard, and serve it up. 
 
 Ox Palates forced. 
 
 Stew your palates whole with forcemeat rolled up ; 
 when done, cut them in half : serve them up with a 
 good sauce of truffles. 
 
 No. 4. M 
 
90 
 
 STEWING 
 
 To marinade Ox Palates. 
 
 Having boiled some palates in water till tender, 
 cut them in pieces of what shape you please, and steep 
 them two or three hours in some vinegar, with salt, 
 pepper, a clove of garlic, a little flour and butter, a 
 laurel leaf, and three cloves. The whole marinade 
 must be made luke-warm, then take them out, dry, 
 flour and fry them, and serve them up with fried parsley. 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 STEWING POULTRY, &c. 
 
 Turkey en Pain. 
 
 Take a fine turkey, bone it, and put into the car- 
 case a ragout composed of large livers, mushrooms, 
 and streaked bacon, all cut in small dice, and mingled 
 with salt, fine spices, and shred parsley and onions. 
 Sew the turkey up, but take care to shape it nicely ; 
 then put a thin slice of bacon upon the breast, and 
 wrap it in a cloth. Stew it in a pot, but not too large 
 a one, with good broth, a glass of white wine, and a 
 bunch of sweet herbs ; when it is done, strain the 
 liquor the turkey w as done in into a stew -pan, 
 after having taken off the fat ; reduce it to a sauce, 
 adding a spoonful of cullis ; then umvrap your turkey, 
 take off the bacon, dry away the grease, and serve 
 it up w 7 ith the sauce. 
 
 Fowls. 
 
 Pursue the same method, at first, in stewing fow ls 
 as you do turkeys ; that is to say, put skew ers cross- 
 ways at the bottom of your stew-pan. When you 
 have laid in your fowl, put to it a quart of gravy, a 
 bunch of celery clean w r aslied and cut very small, with 
 two or three blades of mace. Let it stew' gently till 
 the liquor is reduced to a quantity only sufficient for 
 sauce ; then add a large piece of butter rolled in flour, 
 
91 
 
 POULTRY fyc. 
 
 two spoonsful of red wine, the same quantity of catsup, 
 with pepper and salt to season it. Lay your fowl m 
 the dish, pour the sauce over it, and send it to table. 
 
 Chickens. 
 
 Half boil them in as much water as will just cover 
 them, then take them out, cut them up, and take out 
 the breast bones. Put them into your stew-pan with 
 the liquor, and add a blade of mace and a little salt. 
 Cover the pan close, and set it over a slow fire. Let 
 it stew till the chickens are enough, then put the whole 
 into your dish, and serve it to table. 
 
 Goose Giblets. 
 
 Put them into scalding water, by which you will be 
 enabled to make them properly clean. When this is 
 done, cut the neck into four pieces, the pinions in two, 
 and slice the gizzard. Put them into your stew-pan 
 with two quarts of water, or, if you have it, mutton 
 broth, with some sweet herbs, an anchovy, a few 
 peppercorns, three or four cloves, a spoonful of catsup, 
 and an onion. When the giblets are tender, put in a 
 spoonful of good cream, thicken it with flour and butter, 
 then pour the whole into a soup-dish, with sippets of 
 bread at the bottom, and serve it up. 
 
 Ducks. 
 
 Take two ducks, properly picked and drawn, dust 
 them with flour, and set them before the fire to brown. 
 Then put them into a stew-pan, with a quart of wa- 
 ter, a pint of red wine, a spoonful of walnut catsup, 
 the same of browning, an anchovy, half a lemon, a 
 clove of garlic, a bunch of sweet herbs, with chyan 
 pepper and salt to your taste. Let them stew gently 
 for half an hour, or till you find them tender ; then lay 
 them on a dish, and keep them hot. Skim off the fat 
 from the liquor in which they were stewed, strain it 
 through a hair sieve, add to it a few morels and truf- 
 fles, boil it quick till reduced to little more than half a 
 pint, then pour it over your ducks, and serve them up. 
 
92 
 
 STEWING 
 
 Duck with green Peas. 
 
 Put into yonr stew-pan a piece of fresh butter, and 
 set it on the fire ; then put in your duck, and turn it in 
 the pan two or three minutes : take out the fat, but let 
 the duck remain. Put to it a pint of good gravy, a 
 pint of peas, two lettuces cut small, a bunch of sweet- 
 herbs, and a little pepper and salt. Cover them close, 
 and let them stew for half an horn*, now and then sha- 
 king the pan. When they are just done, grate in a 
 little nutmeg, with a small quantity of beaten mace, 
 and thicken it either with a piece of butter rolled in 
 Hour, or the yolk of an egg beat up with two or three 
 spoonsful of cream. Shake it all together for two or 
 three minutes, then take out the sweet herbs, lay the 
 duck in the dish, and pour the sauce over it. Garnish 
 with boiled mint chopped very fine. 
 
 Pigeons. 
 
 Put into the bodies of your pigeons a seasoning 
 made with pepper and salt, a few cloves and mace, 
 some sweet herbs, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. 
 Tie up the necks and vents, and half roast them. 
 Then put them into a stew-pan, with a quart of good 
 gravy, a little white wine, a few peppercorns, three 
 or four blades of mace, a bit of lemon, a bunch of 
 sweet herbs, and a small onion. Stew them gently 
 till they are enough ; then take the pigeons out, and 
 strain the liquor through a sieve : scum it and thicken 
 it in your stew-pan with a piece of butter rolled hi 
 flour ; then put in the pigeons with some pickled 
 mushrooms; stew it about five minutes; put the 
 pigeons into a dish, and pour the sauce over them. 
 
 Pheasants. 
 
 Put into your stew-pan with the pheasant as much 
 veal broth as will cover it, and let it stew till there is 
 just enough liquor left for sauce. Then scum it, and 
 put in artichoke bottoms parboiled, a little beaten 
 mace, a glass of wine, and some pepper and salt. If 
 it is not sufficiently substantial, thicken it with a piece 
 
POULTRY, fyc. So 
 
 of butter rolled in flour, and squeeze in a little lemon- 
 juice. Then take up the pheasant, pour the sauce 
 over it, and put forcemeat balls into the dish. 
 
 Partridges. 
 
 Truss your partridges in the same manner as for 
 roasting, stuff the craws, and lard them down each 
 side of the breast ; then roll a lump of butter in pep- 
 per, and salt, and beaten mace, and put into the bellies, 
 Sew up the vents, and then put them into a stew-pan 
 with a quart of good gravy, a spoonful of Madeira 
 wine, the same of catsup, a tea-spoonful of lemon- 
 pickle, half the quantity of mushroom powder, one an- 
 chovy, half a lemon, and a sprig of sweet marjoram. 
 Cover the pan close, and stew them half an hour • 
 then take them out and thicken the gravy. Boil it 
 a little, and pour it over the partridges, and lay round 
 them artichoke bottoms boiled and cut in quarters, 
 and the yolks of four hard eggs. Woodcocks must be 
 stewed in the same manner. 
 
 Cucumbers. 
 
 Pare twelve middle sized cucumbers, slice them 
 about the thickness of half a crown, and lay them in a 
 coarse cloth to drain. When quite dry, flour them, 
 and fry them in fresh butter till they are brown ; then 
 take them out with an egg-slice, and lay them on a 
 plate before the fire. Take a large cucumber, cut a 
 long piece out of the side, and scoop out all the pulp. 
 Have ready some onions nicely fried, fill the cucumber 
 with these, and season with pepper and salt ; then put 
 in the piece that was cut out, and tie it round with 
 packthread. Flour it, and fry it till it is brown ; then 
 take it out of the pan, and keep it hot. Let the pan 
 remain on the fire, and while you are putting in a lit- 
 tle flour with one hand, keep stirring it with the other. 
 — When it is thick, put in two or three spoonsful of 
 water, half a pint of white or red wine, and two spoons- 
 ful of catsup. Stir them together, and add three blades 
 of mace, four cloves, half a nutmeg grated, and a lit- 
 
94 
 
 STEWING 
 
 tie pepper and salt, all beat fine together. Stir it into 
 the saucepan, and then throw in your cucumbers. Let 
 them stew for two or three minutes, then lay the whole 
 cucumber in the middle of your dish, having first un- 
 tied it, the rest round it, and pour the sauce all over. 
 Garnish the dish vvith fried onions. 
 
 Peas and Lettuce. 
 
 Put a quart of green peas, and two large lettuces 
 washed clean, and cut small across, into a stew T -pan, 
 with a quart of gravy, and stew them till they are ten- 
 der. Putina piece of butter rolled in flour, and sea- 
 son with pepper and salt. When of a proper thick- 
 ness, dish them up, and send them to table. Instead 
 of butter you may thicken them with the yolks of four 
 eggs, and if you put two or three thin rashers of lean 
 ham at the bottom of the stew-pan, it will give the 
 whole a very fine flavour. 
 
 SECT. III. 
 
 STEWING FISH. 
 
 Carp and Tench. 
 
 Having scaled and gutted your fish, wash them 
 thoroughly clean, dry them with a cloth. Then put 
 them into a stew-pan, with a quart of water, the same 
 quantity of red wine, a large spoonful of lemon-pickle, 
 another of browning, a little mushroom-powder, chy- 
 an pepper, a large onion stuck with cloves, and a stick 
 of horse-radish. (If carp, add the blood, which 
 you must be careful to save when you kill them.) 
 Cover your pan close to keep in the steam ; and let 
 them stew gently over a slow fire till your gravy is re- 
 duced to just enough to cover them. Then take the 
 fish out, and put them into the dish you intend for ta- 
 ble. Set the gravy again on the fire, and thicken it 
 with a large lump of butter rolled in flour : boil it a lit- 
 tle, and then strain it over your fish. Garnish with 
 
FISH. 
 
 95 
 
 pickled mushrooms, scraped horse-radish, and the 
 roes of the fish, some of them fried and cut into small 
 pieces, and the rest boiled. Just before you send it 
 up, squeeze into the sauce the juice of a lemon. 
 
 Barbel. 
 
 Take a large barbel, scale, gut, and wash it in vine- 
 gar and salt, and afterwards in clear water. Then put 
 it into a stew-pan, with a sufficiency of eel broth to 
 cover it, and add some cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, 
 and a bit of cinnamon. Let them stew gently till the 
 fish is done, then take it out, thicken the sauce with 
 butter and flour, pour it over the fish, and serve it up. 
 
 Small Barbel. 
 
 The small barbel is stewed like a carp, and when 
 large may be done on the gridiron, served up with a 
 white sauce. 
 
 Trout. 
 
 Make a stuffing with grated bread, a piece of but- 
 ter, chopped parsley, lemon-peel grated, pepper, salt, 
 nutmeg, savory herbs, and the yolk of an egg, all well 
 mixed together. Fill the belly of your fish with this, 
 and then put it into a stew-pan with a quart of good 
 boiled gravy, half a pint of Madeira wine, an onion, a 
 little whole pepper, a few cloves, and a piece of lemon- 
 peel. Stew it very gently over a slow fire, and when 
 done, take out the fish, and add to the sauce a little 
 flour mixed in some cream, a little catsup, and the 
 juice of a lemon. Let it just boil up, then strain it 
 over your fish, and serve it up. 
 
 Pike. 
 
 Make a browning with butter and flour, and put it 
 into your stew-pan with a pint of red wine, a fag- 
 got, four cloves, a dozen of small onions half boiled, 
 with some pepper and salt. Cut your pike into pieces, 
 put it in, and let it stew very gently. When done, take 
 it out, and add to the sauce two anchovies and a 
 spoonful of capers chopped fine. Boil it for a minute 
 or two, and then pour it over the fish. Garnish with 
 bread nicely fried, and cut three-corner ways. 
 
96 
 
 STEWING 
 
 J1 Fricandeau of Pike. 
 
 Cut a pike into slices, according to its size ; after 
 having scaled, gutted, and washed it, lard all the upper 
 part with bacon cut small, and put it into a stew-pan 
 with a glass of white wine, some good broth, a bunch 
 of sweet herbs, and some fillet of veal cut into small 
 dice : when it is stewed, and the sauce strained off, 
 glaze it like other fricandeaus. It may also be frica- 
 seed like chickens (as a side dish); or you may stew it, 
 and serve it up with a white sauce. 
 
 Cod. 
 
 Cut some slices of cod, as for boiling, and season 
 them with grated nutmeg, pepper, salt, and sweet 
 herbs. Put them into a stew-pan with half a pint of 
 white wine and a quarter of a pint of water. Cover 
 them close, and let them simmer for five or six minutes. 
 Then squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and add a few 
 oysters with their liquor strained, a piece of butter 
 rolled in flour, and a blade or two of mace. Let them 
 stew very gently, and frequently shake the pan to pre- 
 vent its burning. When the fish is done, take out 
 the onion and sweet herbs, lay the cod in a warm dish, 
 and strain the sauce over it. 
 
 Soles, Plaice, and Flounders. 
 
 The same methods must be taken for stewing either 
 of these kinds of fish. Half fry them in butter, then 
 take them out of the pan, and put to the butter a quart 
 of water, two anchovies, and an onion sliced. When 
 they have boiled slowly for about a quarter of an hour, 
 put your fish in again, and let them stew gently about 
 twenty minutes ; then take out the fish, and thicken 
 the sauce with butter and flour. Give the whole a 
 gentle boil, then strain it through a hair-sieve over the 
 fish, and serve them up with oyster, cockle, or shrimp 
 sauce. 
 
 Lampreys and Eels. 
 
 Hav ing skinned, gutted, and thoroughly washed 
 vour fish, season them with salt, pepper, a little lemon 
 
FISH. 
 
 9 ? 
 
 peel shred fine, mace, cloves, and nutmeg. Put some 
 thin slices of butter into your stew-pan, and having 
 rolled your fish round, put them in, with half a pint of 
 good gravy, a gill of white wine, a bunch of marjorum, 
 winter savory, thyme, and an onion sliced. Let them 
 stew over a gentle fire, and keep turning them till they 
 are tender. Then take them out, and put an anchovy 
 into the sauce. Thicken it with the yolk of an egg- 
 beat very fine, or a piece of butter rolled in flour. When 
 it boils, pour it over the fish, and serve them to table. 
 
 Prawns, Shrimps, and Cray-Jish. 
 
 Take about two quarts of either of these fish, and 
 pick out the tails. Put the bodies into your stew-pan, 
 with about a pint of w hite wine (or water with a spoon- 
 ful of vinegar) and a blade of mace. Stew these a 
 quarter of an hour, then stir them together, and strain 
 them. Having done this, wash out your pan, and put 
 into it the strained liquor and tails. Grate into it a 
 small nutmeg, put in a little salt, a quarter of a pound 
 of butter rolled in flour, and shake it all together. Cut 
 a thin slice of bread round a quartern loaf, toast it 
 brown on both sides, cut it into six pieces, lay it close 
 together in the bottom of your dish, pour your fish and 
 sauce hot over it, and send it hot to table. If cray- 
 fish, garnish the dish w ith some of their biggest claws 
 laid thick round. 
 
 Oysters. 
 
 Strain the liquor of your oysters, and put it into 
 your saucepan with a little beaten mace, and thicken 
 it with flour and butter. Boil this three or four mi- 
 nutes, then toast a slice of bread, cut it in three-cor- 
 nered pieces, and lay them round the dish into which 
 you intend to put the oysters. Then put into the pan 
 a spoonful of cream with your oysters, shake them 
 round, and let them stew till they are quite hot, but 
 be careful they do not boil. Pour them into a deep 
 plate or soup-dish, and serve them up. Most kinds of 
 hell-fish may be stewed in the same manner. 
 
 No. 5. N 
 
98 
 
 HASHING 
 
 Oysters scolloped. 
 
 Wash them thoroughly clean in their own liquor, 
 and then put them into your scollop shells ; strew over 
 them a few crumbs of bread. Lay a slice of butter on 
 the first you put in, then more oysters, and bread and 
 butter successively till the shell is full. Put them into 
 a Dutch oven to brown, and serve them up hot in the 
 shells. 
 
 Muscles. 
 
 Wash them very clean in several waters, then put 
 them into a ste w-pan, and cover them close. Let them 
 stew till the shells open, and then pick out the fish 
 clean, one by one. Look under the tongue to see if 
 there be a crab, and if you find one, throw that muscle 
 away. You will likewise find a little tough article 
 under the tongue, which you must pick off. Having 
 thus properly cleansed them, put them into a sauce- 
 pan, and to a quart of muscles, put half a pint of the 
 liquor strained through a sieve ; add a few blades of 
 mace, a small piece of butter rolled in flour, and let 
 them stew gently. Lay some toasted bread in the 
 dish, and when the muscles are done, pour them on 
 it, and serve them up. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 HASHING AND MINCING. 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT. 
 
 Calf’s Head. 
 
 AS a whole calf's head is rather too large for the 
 consumption of most families at one time, and as we 
 mean to confine our receipts within such compass as 
 may with equal convenience and pleasure suit all, so 
 we shall here give directions for only hashing one -half, 
 observing that should there be occasion for doing the 
 whole, it is only doubling the ingredients here given 
 for a part. 
 
MEAT. 99 
 
 Wash the head as clean as possible, and then boil 
 it a quarter of an hour. When cold, cut the meat, as 
 also the tongue, into thin broad slices, and put them 
 into a stewing-pan, with a quart of good gravy. When 
 it has stewed three quarters of an hour, put in an an- 
 chovy, a little beaten mace, chyan pepper, two spoons- 
 ful of lemon-pickle, the same quantity of walnut cat- 
 sup, half an ounce of truffles and morels, a slice or tw r o 
 of lemon, some sweet herbs, and a glass of white wine. 
 Mix a quarter of a pound of butter with some flour, 
 and put it in a few minutes before the meat is done. 
 In the mean time put the brains into hot water, and 
 beat them fine in a basin ; then add two eggs, a 
 spoonful of flour, a bit of lemon-peel shred fine, and a 
 little parsley, thyme, and sage chopped small. Beat 
 them all well together, and strew in a little pepper and 
 salt ; then drop them in little cakes into a pan with 
 boiling lard ; fry them of a light brown, and lay them 
 on a sieve to drain. Take your hash out of your pan 
 with a fish slice, and lay it in your dish. Strain your 
 gravy over it, and lay upon it a few mushrooms, force- 
 meat balls, the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, and the 
 brain cakes. Garnish with sliced lemon and pickles. 
 If the company is so large that there should be a ne- 
 cessity for dressing the w hole head, in order to make 
 a pleasing variety, do the other half thus : When it is 
 parboiled, hack it cross and cross with a knife, and 
 grate some nutmeg all over it. Take the yolks of two 
 eggs, a little salt and pepper, a few sweet-herbs, some 
 crumbs of bread, and a little lemon-peel chopped very 
 fine. Strew this over the head, and then put it into 
 a deep dish before a good fire. Baste it with butter, 
 and keep the dish turning till all parts are equally 
 brown. Then take it up, and lay it on your hash. 
 Blanch the half of the tongue, and lay it on a soup 
 plate ; boil the brains with a little sage and parsley, 
 chop them fine, and mix them with some melted but- 
 ter/ and a spoonful of cream, make it quite hot, then 
 pour it over the tongue, and serve it up w T ith the head. 
 The mode of doing this half is usually termed grilling . 
 
100 
 
 HASHING 
 
 Veal Minced. 
 
 First cut your veal into thin slices, and then into 
 small bits. Put it into a saucepan with half a pint of 
 gravy, a little pepper and salt, a slice of lemon, a good 
 piece of butter rolled in flour, a tea-spoonful of lemon- 
 pickle, and a large spoonful of cream. — Keep shaking 
 t over the fire till it boils, hare sippets of bread ready 
 in the dish, and then pour the whole over them. Gar- 
 nish with sliced lemon. 
 
 Mutton Hashed. 
 
 Cut your meat into Imall pieces, as thin as possi- 
 ble ; then boil the bones with an onion, a few sweet 
 herbs, a blade of mace, a very little whole pepper, a 
 little salt, and a piece of crust toasted very crisp. Let 
 it boil till there is just enough for sauce ; then strain it, 
 and put it into a saucepan, with a piece of butter rol- 
 led in flour; then put in the meat, and when it is very 
 hot it is enough. Season with pepper and salt. Have 
 ready some thin bread toasted brown and cut three 
 corner ways, lay them in the dish, and pour over the 
 hash. Garnish with pickles and horse-radish. 
 
 SECT. IT. 
 
 HASHING POULTRY and GAME. 
 
 Turkeys. 
 
 Cut the flesh into pieces, and take off all the skin, 
 otherwise it will give the gravy a greasy disagreeable 
 taste. Put it into a stew-pan with a pint of gravy, a 
 tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle, a slice of the end of a 
 lemon, and a little beaten mace. Let it boil about six 
 or seven minutes, and then put it into your dish. 
 Thicken your gravy with flour and butter, mix the 
 yolks of two eggs with a spoonful of thick cream, put 
 it into your gravy, and shake it over the fire till it is 
 quite hot, but do not let it boil ; then strain it, and 
 pour it over your turkey. Lay sippets round, serve it 
 up, and garnish with lemon and parsley. 
 
POULTRY, 4*C. 101 
 
 Or you may do it thus : 
 
 Cut the remains of a roasted turkey into pieces, 
 and put them into a stew-pan with a glass of white 
 wine, chopped parsley, shalots, mushrooms, truffles, 
 salt, and pepper, and about half a pint of broth. Let it 
 boil half an hour, which will be sufficient to do it ; then 
 add a pounded anchovy and a squeeze of lemon. 
 Scum the fat clear from the sauce, then pour the whole 
 into your dish over sippets made of toasted bread cut 
 thin. Garnish with sliced lemon. 
 
 Fowls. 
 
 Cut up your fowl as for eating, then put it into a 
 stew-pan with half a pint of gravy, a tea-spoonful of 
 lemon-pickle, a little catsup and a slice of lemon. 
 Thicken it with flour and butter ; and just before you 
 dish it up, put in a spoonful of good cream. Lay 
 sippets in the dish, and pour the hash over them. 
 
 Chickens. 
 
 Cut a cold chicken into pieces, and if you have no 
 gravy, make a little with the long bones, onion, spice, 
 &c. Flour the chicken, and put into the gravy, with 
 white pepper, salt, nutmeg, and grated lemon. When 
 it boils, stir in an egg, and mix it with a little cream. 
 As soon as it is thoroughly hot, squeeze in a little 
 lemon-juice, then put the whole into a dish, strew 
 over it some crumbs of bread, brown them with a 
 salamander, and then serve it up hot to table. 
 
 Partridges or Woodcocks . 
 
 Having cut it up in the usual manner as when 
 first brought to the table, work the entrails very fine 
 with the back of a spoon, put in a spoonful of red wine, 
 the same of water, and half a spoonful of vinegar ; 
 cut an onion in slices, and put it into rings ; roll a 
 little butter in flour, put them all into your pan, and 
 shake it over the fire till it boils ; then put in your 
 bird, and when it is thoroughly hot, lay it in your disli, 
 with sippets round it. Strain the sauce over the bird. 
 
102 HASHING POULTRY, fyc. 
 
 and lay the onions in rings. This will make a deli- 
 cate dish for two people either for dinner or supper ; 
 and where there is a large company is an ornamental 
 addition to other articles provided. 
 
 Wild Ducks. 
 
 Cut up your duck in the usual manner, then put it 
 into a pan, with a spoonful of good gravy, the same of 
 red wine, and an onion sliced exceeding thin. When 
 it has boiled two or three minutes, lay the duck in the 
 dish, and pour the gravy over it. You may add a tea- 
 spoonful of caper liquor, or a little browning. 
 
 Hares. 
 
 Cut your hare into small pieces, and if you have 
 any of the pudding left, rub it small, and put to it a 
 gill of red wine, the same quantity of water, half an 
 anchovy chopped fine, an onion stuck with four 
 cloves, and a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in 
 flour. Put these all together into a saucepan, and set 
 it over a slow fire, shaking it at times that the whole 
 may be equally heated. When it is thoroughly hot 
 (for you must not let any kind of hash boil, as it will 
 harden the meat) take out the onion, lay sippets in 
 and round the dish, pour in your hash, and serve it 
 hot to table. 
 
 Hare Jugged. 
 
 After you have cut your hare into small pieces, 
 lard them here and there with very thin slips of 
 bacon ; season them with a little pepper and salt, and 
 put them into an earthen jug, with a blade or two of 
 mace, an onion stuck with cloves, and a bunch of 
 sweet herbs. Cover the jug close, that the steam may 
 be retained ; set it in a pot of boiling water, and about 
 three hours will do it. Then turn it out of the jug 
 into the dish, take out the onion and sweet herbs, and 
 send it hot to table. With respect to the larding, it 
 may be used or omitted, at your own discretion. Gar 
 nish with sliced lemon. 
 
103 
 
 FRICASEEING MEAT, §C. 
 
 Venison. 
 
 Cut your venison into very thin slices, and put it 
 into a ste wing-pan, with a large glass of red wine, a 
 spoonful of catsup, the same of browning, an onion 
 stuck with cloves, and half an anchovy chopped fine. 
 When it boils, put in your venison, and let it remain 
 till it is thoroughly heated. Then pour the whole 
 together into a soup dish, with sippets underneath. 
 Garnish with red cabbage or current-jelly. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 FRICA S SEEING. 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 BUTCHER S MEAT, POULTRY, &c. 
 
 JYeafs Tongue. 
 
 HAVING boiled the tongue till it is tender, take 
 it up, peel it, and cut it into slices. Put them into a 
 frying-pan with a proper quantity of butter, and let 
 them fry till they are brown. Then pour the butter 
 clean out of the pan, and put in some good gravy, with 
 a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, some pepper and 
 salt, a blade or two of mace, and a gill of wine. When 
 they have all simmered together about half an hour, 
 take out the slices of tongue, strain the gravy, and put 
 all again into the pan, with the yolks of two eggs beat 
 fine, a little nutmeg grated, and a small piece of butter 
 rolled in flour. Shake the whole well together, and 
 when it has simmered for about five minutes, put the 
 tongue into your dish, pour over the sauce, and serve 
 it to table. 
 
 Sweetbreads White. 
 
 These must be likewise first scalded, and then cut 
 into long slices ; when done, thicken some veal gravy 
 with a piece of butter rolled in flour, a little cream, 
 
104 
 
 FRIC ASEETNG 
 
 some grated lemon-peel and nutmeg, white pepper, 
 salt, and a little mushroom powder. When these have 
 stewed together about ten minutes, put in the sweet- 
 breads, shake the pan, and let them simmer ; then 
 squeeze in a little lemon-juice, pour the whole into 
 your dish, and serve it up. 
 
 Calf's Feet a-la-Carmagot. 
 
 Parboil them, then take out the long bones, split 
 them, and put them into a stew-pan, with some veal 
 gravy, and a glass of white wine. Add likewise the 
 yolks of two or three eggs beat up with a little cream, 
 grated nutmeg, salt, and a piece of butter. Stir it till 
 it is of a good thickness ; and when the whole has gen- 
 tly simmered for about ten minutes, put the feet into 
 your dish, and pour the sauce over them. Garnish 
 with sliced lemon. 
 
 Tripe. 
 
 Cut your tripe into pieces, about two inches square, 
 and put them into your stew-pan, with as much white 
 wine as will half cover them, a little white pepper, 
 sliced ginger, a blade of mace, a bunch of sweet herbs, 
 and an onion. When it has stewed a quarter of an 
 hour, (which will be sufficient time to do it,) take out 
 the herbs and onion, and put a little shred parsley, the 
 juice of a lemon, half an anchovy cut small, a cup full 
 of cream, and either the yolk of an egg, or a piece of 
 butter. Season it to your taste ; and when you dish 
 it up, garnish with lemon. 
 
 Chickens. 
 
 Skin your chickens, and then cut them into small pie- 
 ces, after which wash them with warm water, and tho- 
 roughly dry them with a cloth. Season them with salt 
 and pepper, and put them into a stew-pan with a lit- 
 tle water, a large piece of butter, a bunch of thyme, 
 and sweet-marjorum, an onion stuck with cloves, a lit- 
 tle lemon-pickle, a glass of wine, an anchovy, a little 
 mace and nutmeg. When the chickens have stewed 
 
FISH. 
 
 105 
 
 till they are tender, take them up, and lay them in your 
 dish. Thicken your gravy with butter rolled in flour, 
 and then strain it. Beat up the yolks of three eggs, 
 and mix them with a gill of rich cream ; put this into 
 your gravy, and shake it over the fire till it is quite hot, 
 but do not suffer it to boil. Pour this over your chick- 
 ens, and serve them up. Garnish with sliced lemon. 
 
 Rabbits White. 
 
 T o fricasee rabbits white, you must cut them up as 
 for eating, and then put them into a stew-pan, with a 
 pint of veal gravy, a little beaten mace, a slice of le- 
 mon, an anchovy, a tea-spoonful of lemon pickle, a lit- 
 tle chyan pepper and salt. Let them stew over a gen- 
 tle fire till they are enough, then take them out, and 
 lay them in your dish. Thicken the gravy with butter 
 and flour ; then strain it, and add the yolks of two 
 eggs, mixed with a gill of thick cream, and a little gra- 
 ted nutmeg. Stir these well together, and when it be- 
 gins to simmer, pour it quite hot over your rabbits, and 
 serve them to table. 
 
 Rabbits Brown. 
 
 Cut them into pieces as before directed, and fry 
 them in butter of a light brown. Then put them in- 
 to a stew-pan, with a pint of water, a slice of lemon, 
 an anchovy, a large spoonful of browning, the same of 
 catsup, a tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle, and a little chy- 
 an pepper and salt. Stew them over a slow fire till 
 they are enough, then thicken your gravy with butter 
 and flour, and strain it. Dish up your rabbits, and 
 pour the gravy over them. Garnish with sliced lemon. 
 
 SECT. IT. 
 
 FRICASEEING FISH, Ac. 
 
 Cod Sounds. 
 
 Having properly cleaned them, cut them into small 
 pieces, boil them in milk and water, and then set them 
 to drain. Then put them into a clean saucepan, 
 No. 5. O 
 
106 
 
 FRICASEEING. 
 
 and season them with beaten mace, grated nutmeg, 
 and a little pepper and salt. Add to them a cup full 
 of cream, with a good piece of butter rolled in flour, 
 and keep shaking the whole till it is thoroughly hot, 
 and of a good thickness. Then pour all into your dish, 
 and serve it up, with a sliced lemon for garnish. 
 
 Soles. 
 
 When you have skinned, gutted, and thoroughly 
 washed them, cut off their heads, and dry the fish in 
 a cloth. Then cut the flesh very carefully from the 
 bones and fins on both sides ; cut it first long- ways, and 
 then across, in such divisions that each fish may make 
 eight pieces. Put the heads and bones into a stew- 
 pan, with a pint of water, a bunch of sweet herbs, an 
 onion, a little whole pepper, two or three blades of 
 mace, a small piece of lemon-peel, a little salt, and a 
 crust of bread. Cover it close, and let it boil till it is 
 half wasted : then strain it through a fine sieve, and 
 put it into a stew-pan with your fish. Add to them 
 half a pint of white wine, a little parsley chopped fine, 
 a few mushrooms cut small, a little grated nutmeg, and 
 a piece of butter rolled in flour. Set altogether over 
 a slow fire, and keep shaking the pan till the fish are 
 enough : then dish them up with the gravy, and serve 
 them to table. Garnish with lemon. 
 
 Eels. 
 
 Skin three or four large eels, and notch them from 
 end to end. Cut them into four or five pieces each, 
 and lay them in some spring water for half an hour to 
 crimp : then dry them in a cloth, and put them into 
 your pan, with a piece of fresh butter, a green onion 
 or two, and a little chopped parsley. Set the pan on 
 the fire, and shake them about for a few minutes : then 
 put in about a pint of white wine, and as much good 
 broth with pepper, salt, and a blade of mace. Stew 
 all together about half an hour : and then add the yolks 
 of four or five eggs beat smooth, and a little grated 
 nutmeg, and chopped parsley. Stir the whole well 
 
FISH 
 
 107 
 
 together, and let it simmer four or five minutes, then 
 squeeze in the juice of a lemon, give the whole a good 
 shake, pour it into your dish, and serve it up hot. Gar- 
 nish with lemon. 
 
 Tench are exceeding fine dressed in the same man- 
 ner. 
 
 Flounders. 
 
 Take a sharp knife, and carefully raise the flesh on 
 both sides from head to tail ; then take the bone clear 
 out, and cut the flesh into pieces in the same manner 
 as directed for soles, only let the pieces of each consist 
 of six instead of eight. Dry your fish well, then sprin- 
 kle them with salt, dredge them with flour, and fry 
 them in a pan of hot beef dripping, so that the fish may 
 be crisp. When so done, take them out of the pan, 
 drain the fat from them, and set them before the fire 
 to keep warm. Then clean the pan, and put into it 
 some minced oysters, with their liquor clean strained, 
 some white wine, a little gr ated nutmeg, and three an- 
 chovies. Stew these together a few minutes, and then 
 put in your fish, with about a quarter of a pound of 
 fresh butter. Shake them well together, and, when 
 quite hot, dish up your fish with the sauce, and serve 
 them to table. Garnish with yolks of eggs, boiled hard 
 and minced, and sliced lemon. You may fricasee sal- 
 mon, or any other firm fish, in the same manner. 
 
 Skate or Thornback. 
 
 These must be prepared for dressing in the same 
 manner as directed for soles and flounders ; after which 
 put them into your stew-pan. To one pound of the fish 
 put a quarter of a pint of water, a little beaten mace, 
 and grated nutmeg ; a small bunch of sweet herbs, and 
 a little salt. Cover it close, and let it boil about a 
 quarter of an hour. Then take out the sweet herbs, 
 put in a quarter of a pint of good cream, a piece of 
 l)utter, the size of a walnut, rolled in flour, and a glass 
 of white wine. Keep shaking the pan all the time 
 one way till your fricasee is thick and smooth ; then 
 dish it up, and garnish with lemon. 
 
108 FRICASEEING FISH, $C. 
 
 Oysters . 
 
 Put a little butter into your stew-pan, with a slice 
 of ham, a faggot of parsley and sweet herbs, and an 
 onion stuck with two cloves. Let them stew over a 
 slow fire a few minutes, and then add a little flour, 
 some good broth, and a piece of lemon-peel ; then put 
 in your oysters, and let them simmer till they are tho- 
 roughly hot. Thicken with the yolks of two eggs, a 
 little cream, and a bit of good butter, take out the ham, 
 faggot, onion, and lemon-peel, and add the squeeze of 
 a lemon. Give the whole a shake in the pan, and 
 when it simmers put it into your dish, and serve it up. 
 
 Eggs. 
 
 Boil your eggs hard, and take out some of the 
 yolks whole ; then cut the rest in quarters, yolks and 
 whites together. Set on some gravy with a little shred 
 thyme and parsley in it, and let it boil about a minute. 
 Then put in your eggs, with a little grated nutmeg, 
 and shake them up with a piece of butter till it is of 
 a proper thickness. Pour it into your dish, and serve 
 it up. 
 
 Eggs with Onions and Mushrooms. 
 
 When you have boiled the eggs hard take out the 
 yolks whole, and cut the whites in slips, with some 
 onions and mushrooms. Fry the onions and mush- 
 rooms, throw in the whites, and turn them about a lit- 
 tle. If there is any fat, pour it off. Flour the onions, 
 &c. and put to them a little good gravy. Boil this up, 
 then put in the yolks, and add a little pepper and salt. 
 Let the whole simmer for about a minute, and then 
 dish it up. 
 
 Mushrooms. 
 
 If your mushrooms are very small (such as are 
 usually termed buttons) you must only wipe them with 
 a flannel ; but if large peel them, scrape the insides, 
 and throw them into some salt and water. After ly- 
 ing some time, take them out and boil them in water 
 
RAG00ING MEAT. 
 
 109 
 
 with some salt in it ; and when they are tender, put 
 in a little shred parsley, an onion stuck with cloves, 
 and a glass of wine. Shake them up with a good 
 piece of butter rolled in flour, and put in three spoons- 
 ful of thick cream, and a little nutmeg cut in pieces. 
 When the whole has stood two or three minutes, take 
 out the onion and nutmeg, then pour the mushrooms 
 with their sauce into your dish, and serve them to 
 table. 
 
 Skirrits. 
 
 Wash them thoroughly clean, and when you have 
 boiled them till they are tender, skin the roots, and 
 cut them into slices. Have ready a little cream, a 
 piece of butter rolled in flour, the yolk of an egg beaten 
 fine, a little grated nutmeg, two or three spoonsful of 
 white wine, with a very little salt, and stir all together. 
 Put your roots into the dish, and pour the sauce over 
 them. 
 
 Artichoke Bottoms. 
 
 These may be fricaseed either dried or pickled. 
 If dried, lay them in warm water for three or four 
 hours, shifting the water two or three times. Having 
 done this, put some cream into your saucepan, with a 
 large piece of fresh butter, and stir them together one 
 way till the butter is melted. Then put in the arti- 
 chokes, and when they are hot dish them up. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 RAGOOS. 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT. 
 
 Breast of Veal. 
 
 HALF roast it, then take out the bones, and put 
 the meat into a stew-pan, with a quart of veal gravy, 
 an ounce of morels, and the same quantity of truffles. 
 
RAG00ING 
 
 110 
 
 When the meat has stewed till it is tender, and just 
 before you thicken the gravy, put in a few oysters, 
 some pickled mushrooms, and pickled cucumbers, all 
 cut in small square pieces, and the yolks of four eggs 
 boiled hard. In the meantime, cut your sweetbread 
 into pieces, and fry it of a light brown. When the 
 veal is properly stewed, dish it up, and pour the gravy 
 hot upon it. Lay your sweetbread, morels, truffles, 
 and eggs round it, and garnish with pickled barberries. 
 In placing this dish on the table, if the company is 
 large, and the provisional entertainment designed to be 
 set out in taste, if for supper, it must be placed at the 
 bottom of the table, but if for dinner, either on the top 
 or on one side. It may likewise be stewed tender, and 
 served with a white sauce of young peas or button 
 mushrooms. 
 
 Neck of Veal. 
 
 Cut your veal into steaks, and flatten them with a 
 rolling-pin ; then season them with salt, pepper, cloves, 
 and mace ; lard them with bacon strewed with lemon- 
 peel and thyme, and dip them in the yolks of eggs. 
 Having done this, make up a sheet of strong cap-paper 
 at the four corners in the shape of a dripping-pan, but- 
 ter it all over, as also the gridiron, and set over a char- 
 coal fire, pat in your meat, and let it do leisurely, keep 
 turning it often, and baste it well in order to keep in the 
 gravy. When it is enough have ready half a pint of 
 strong gravy, season it high, and put into it mushrooms 
 and pickles, forcemeat balls dipped in the yolks of eggs, 
 oysters stew T ed and fried, to lay round and at the top of 
 your dish, and then serve it up. If for w hite ragoo, put 
 in a gill of white wine, with the yolks of tw o eggs beat 
 up with two or three spoonsful of cream ; but if a brown 
 ragoo, put in red wine. 
 
 Sweetbreads Brown. 
 
 First scald your sweetbreads, and then cut them 
 into slices. Beat up the yolk of an egg very fine, with 
 a little flour, pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Dip your slices 
 of sweetbread into this, and fry them of a nice light 
 
MEAT. 
 
 Ill 
 
 brown. Then thicken a little good gravy with some 
 flour ; boil it well, and add catsup or mushroom pow- 
 der, a little juice of a lemon, and chyan pepper. Put 
 your sweetbreads into this ; and when they have stewed 
 in it about five minutes, put the whole into your dish, 
 and seve it up. Garnish with sliced lemon. 
 
 Calf's Feet . 
 
 After boiling the feet, take out the bones, cut the 
 meat into slices, and brown them in a frying-pan ; then 
 put them into some good beef gravy, with morels, truf- 
 fles, pickled mushrooms, and the yolks of four eggs 
 boiled hard, some salt, and a little butter rolled in flour. 
 Let them stew together about five minutes, and then 
 put all into your dish. Garnish with sliced lemon. 
 
 Pig's Feet and Ears. 
 
 First boil them till they are tender, then cut the 
 ears into long narrow slices, and split the feet down 
 the middle. Put into a stew-pan about half a pint of 
 beef gravy, a tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle, a large one 
 of catsup, the same of browning, and a little salt. 
 Thicken these with apiece of butter rolled in flour, and 
 let the feet and ears be yolked over with egg, then roll 
 them in bread-crumbs and seasoning ; let the feet be 
 nicely browned with a salamander, or fried ; then let 
 them boil gently, and, when enough, lay the feet in the 
 middle of the dish, and the ears round them. Then 
 strain your gravy, pour it over them, and garnish with 
 curled parsley. 
 
 A Fore-quarter of House Lamb. 
 
 Take off the knuckle- bone, and then with a sharp 
 knife cut off the skin. Lard it well with bacon, and 
 fry it of a nice light brown. Then put it into a stew- 
 pan, and just cover it over with mutton gravy, a bunch 
 of sweet herbs, some pepper, salt, beaten mace, and a 
 little whole pepper. Cover it close, and let it stew 
 half an hour. Then pour out the liquor, and take care 
 to keep the lamb hot. Strain off the gravy, and have 
 ready half a pint of oysters fried brown. Pour all the 
 
112 
 
 RAGOOING 
 
 fat from them, and put them into the gravy, with two 
 spoonsful of red wine, a few mushrooms, and a bit of 
 butter rolled in flour. Boil all together, with the juice 
 of half a lemon. Lay the lamb in the dish, pour the 
 sauce over it, and send it to table. 
 
 Beef. 
 
 Take any piece of beef that has got some fat to it, 
 cut the meat clean from the bones, strew some flour 
 over it, and fry it in a large stew-pan with butter till 
 it is of a nice brown : then cover it in the pan with 
 gravy made in the following manner : take about a 
 pound of coarse beef, half a pound of veal cut small, a 
 bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, some whole black and 
 white pepper, two or three blades of mace, four or five 
 cloves, a piece of carrot, a slice of lean bacon steeped 
 in vinegar, and a crust of bread toasted brown. Add 
 to these a quart of wine, and let it boil till it is half 
 wasted. In the meantime pour a quart of boiling wa- 
 ter into the stew-pan, cover it close, and let it stew 
 gently. As soon as the gravy is done, strain it, and 
 pour it into the stew-pan with the beef. Then take 
 an ounce of truffles and morels cut small, with some 
 fresh or dried mushrooms, and two spoonsful of catsup. 
 Cover it close, and let it stew till the sauce is thick and 
 rich. Have ready some artichoke bottoms quartered, 
 and a few pickled mushrooms. Boil the whole toge- 
 ther, and when your meat is tender, and the sauce 
 rich, lay the meat in a dish, pour the sauce over it, and 
 serve it hot to table. 
 
 Mutton. 
 
 Cut some thin slices, the right way of the grain, off 
 a fine leg of mutton, and pare off all the skin and fat. 
 Then put a piece of butter into your stew-pan, and 
 shake some flour over it ; add to these two or three 
 slices of lemon, with half an onion cut very small, a 
 bunch of sweet herbs, and a blade of mace. Put your 
 meat with these into the pan, stir them together for 
 five or six minutes, and then put in half a pint of gra- 
 vy, with an anchovy minced small, and a piece of but- 
 
113 
 
 POULTRY, fyc. 
 
 ter rolled in flour. Stir the whole well together, and 
 when it has stewed about ten minutes, dish it up, and 
 serve it to table. Garnish with pickles and sliced 
 lemon. 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 RAGOOS o/POULTRY, VEGETABLES, $c. 
 
 A Goose. 
 
 Skin your goose, dip it into boiling water, and break 
 the breast-bone, so that it may lay quite flat. Season 
 it with pepper and salt, and a little mace beaten tc 
 powder ; lard it, and then flour it all over. Having 
 done this, take about a pound of beef suet, and put into 
 your stew-pan, and when melted, boiling hot, put in 
 the goose. As soon as you find the goose brown all 
 over, put in a quart of beef gravy boiling hot, a bunch 
 of sweet herbs and a blade of mace, a few cloves, some 
 whole pepper, two or three small onions, and a bay- 
 leaf, Cover the pan quite close, and let it stew gen- 
 tly over a slow fire. If the goose is small, it will be 
 done in an hour, but if large, an hour and a half. Make 
 a ragoo for it in the following manner : Cut some tur- 
 nips and carrots into small pieces, with three or four 
 onions sliced, boil all enough, put them, with half a 
 pint of rich beef gravy, into a saucepan, with some 
 pepper, salt, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Let 
 them stew about a quarter of an hour. When the 
 goose is done, take it out of the stew-pan, drain the 
 liquor it was stewed in well from it, put it into a dish, 
 and pour the ragoo over it. 
 
 Livers of Poultry. 
 
 Take the liver of a turkey, and the livers of six 
 fowls, and put them into cold water. When they have 
 laid in it some time, take them out, and put the fowls’ 
 livers into a saucepan, with a quarter of a pint of gravy, 
 a spoonful of mushrooms either pickled or fresh, the 
 
 No. 5. P 
 
RAGOOING 
 
 214 
 
 same quantity of catsup, and a piece of butter rolled in 
 flour. Season them to your taste with pepper and 
 salt, and let them stew gently about ten minutes. In 
 the meantime, broil the turkey's liver nicely, and lay 
 it in the middle, with the stewed livers round it. P our 
 the sauce over all, and garnish with lemon. 
 
 Oysters. 
 
 When the oysters are opened, save as much of the 
 liquor as you can, and strain it through a sieve ; wash 
 your oysters clean in warm water, and then make a 
 batter as follows : Beat up the yolks of two eggs with 
 half a nutmeg grated, cut a little lemon-peel small, a 
 good deal of parsley, and add a spoonful of the juice 
 of spinach, two spoonsful of cream or milk, and beat 
 the whole up with flour till it is a thick batter. Having 
 prepared this, put a piece of fresh butter into a stew- 
 pan, and when it is thoroughly hot, dip your oysters 
 one by one into the batter, then roll them in crumbs 
 of bread grated fine, and fry them quick and brown, 
 which done, take them out of the pan, and set them 
 before the fire. Have ready a quart of chesnuts, shel- 
 led and skinned, and fry them in the batter. When 
 enough, take them up, pour the fat out of the pan, 
 shake a little flour all over the pan, and rub a piece of 
 butter all round with a spoon. Then put in the oys- 
 ter-liquor, three or four blades of mace, the chesnuts, 
 and half a pint of white wine. Let them boil, and 
 have ready the yolks of two eggs beat up, with four 
 spoonsful of cream. Stir all well together, and when 
 it is thick and fine, lay the oysters in the dish, and 
 pour the ragoo over them. Garnish with chesnuts 
 and lemon. 
 
 Muscles. 
 
 Put your muscles into a saucepan, and let them 
 stew till they are open. Then take them out of the 
 shells, and save the liquor. Put into your stew-pan a 
 bit of butter, a few mushrooms chopped, a little pars- 
 ley and grated lemon-peel. Stir these together, and 
 then put in some gravy, with pepper and salt ; thicken 
 
VEGETABLES. 
 
 115 
 
 it with a little flour, boil it up, put in the muscles with 
 their liquor, and let them be hot ; then pour them into 
 your dish, and serve them up. There are some mus- 
 cles of a pernicious quality, to know which, when you 
 stew them, put a half-crown into the saucepan, and if 
 it is discoloured, the muscles are not wholesome. 
 
 Mushrooms. 
 
 Take some large mushrooms, peel them, and cut 
 the inside. Then broil them on a gridiron, and when 
 the outside is brown, put them into a stew-pan, with 
 a sufficient quantity of water to cover them. When 
 they have stewed ten minutes, put to them a spoonful 
 of white wine, the same of browning, and a little vine- 
 gar. Thicken it with butter and flour, give it a gentle 
 boil, and serve it up with sippets round the dish. 
 
 Artichoke Bottoms. 
 
 Soak them in warm water for two or three hours, 
 changing the water. Then put them into the stew- 
 pan with some good gravy, mushroom catsup or pow- 
 der, and a little chyan pepper and salt. When they 
 boil, thicken with a little flour, put them into your 
 dish, pour the sauco over them, and serve them up hot 
 to table. 
 
 Asparagus. 
 
 Take an hundred of grass, scrape them clean, and 
 put them into cold water ; then cut them as far as is 
 good and green, and take two heads of endive, with a 
 young lettuce, and an onion, and cut them all very 
 small. Put a quarter of a pound of butter into your 
 stew-pan, and when it is melted, put in the grass, with 
 the other articles. Shake them about, and when they 
 have stewed ten minutes, season them with a little 
 pepper and salt, strew in a little flour, shake them 
 about, and then pour in half a pint of gravy. Let them 
 stew till the sauce is very good and thick, and then 
 pour all into your dish. Garnish with a few of the 
 small tops of the grass. 
 
116 RAGOOING 
 
 Cucumbers. 
 
 Slice two cucumbers and two onions, and fry 
 them together in a little butter. Then drain them in 
 a sieve, and put them into a saucepan, with a gill of 
 gravy, two spoonsful of white wine, and a blade of 
 mace. When they have stewed five or six minutes, 
 put in a piece of butter, about the size of a walnut, 
 rolled in flour, a little salt and chyan pepper. Shake 
 them well together till the whole is of a good thick- 
 ness, then put them into your dish, and serve them up. 
 
 Cucumbers 
 
 May likewise be stewed with forcemeat. Cut your 
 cucumbers into two or three pieces, according to the 
 size, take all the inside out with a cutter, put in your 
 forcemeat, then put some butter into your stew-pan 
 along with the cucumbers : after they have stewed 
 some time add some good gravy, a glass of white wine, 
 and let them go on till tender ; then strain off the gra- 
 vy, season and thicken it with cullis. Put it into the 
 dish with the cucumbers ; the dish must be glazed. 
 
 Cauliflowers . 
 
 Take a large cauliflower, wash it thoroughly clean, 
 and separate it into pieces, in the same manner you 
 would do for pickling. Stew them in a nice brown 
 cullis till they are tender. Season with pepper and 
 salt, and put them into a dish with the sauce over 
 them. Garnish with a few sprigs of the cauliflower 
 nicely boiled. 
 
 French Beans. 
 
 Take a quarter of a peck of beans, string them 
 clean, but do not split them. Cut them across in three 
 parts, and lay them in salt and water. After remain- 
 ing thus about a quarter of an hour, dry them well in 
 a cloth, then put them into a pan, and when you have 
 fried them of a nice brown colour, take them out, pour 
 all the fat from the pan, and put into it a quarter of a 
 pint of hot water. Stir it into the pan, by degrees. 
 
VEGETABLES. 
 
 117 
 
 and let it boil. Then take a quarter of a pound of fresh 
 butter rolled in a little flour, two spoonsful of catsup, 
 one of mushroom pickle, four of white wine, an onion 
 stuck with six cloves, two or three blades ofbeaten mace, 
 a little grated nutmeg, and a little pepper and salt. 
 Stir it altogether for a few minutes, and then put in the 
 beans. Shake the pan till the whole is well mixed 
 together, then take out the onion, and pour all into 
 your dish. Garnish with what most pleases your fan- 
 cy ; but pickles may be preferred. This makes a very 
 pretty side dish. 
 
 Endive. 
 
 Take three heads of fine white endive, wash them 
 thoroughly clean, and then put them into salt and wa- 
 ter for three hours. Cut off the green heads of a hun- 
 dred of asparagus, chop the rest small as far as it runs 
 tender, and throw it likewise into salt and water. Then 
 take a bunch of celery, wash and scrape it clean, and 
 cut it into pieces about three inches long. Put it into 
 a saucepan with a pint of water, three or four blades 
 of mace, and some white pepper tied in a cloth. 
 When it has stewed till it is quite tender, put in the 
 asparagus, shake the saucepan, and let it simmer till 
 the grass is enough. Take the three heads of endive 
 out of the water, drain them, and leave the largest 
 whole. Pull the others asunder, leaf by leaf, and put 
 them into the stew-pan, with a pint of white wine. 
 Cover the pan close, and let it boil till the endive is just 
 enough. Then put in a quarter of a pound of butter 
 rolled in flour, cover the pan again, and keep shaking 
 it. When the endive is enough, take it up, and lay 
 the whole head in the middle ; then with a spoon 
 take out the celery and grass, and lay them round 
 it, and the other parts of the endive over that. Pour 
 the liquor out of the saucepan into the stew-pan, stir 
 the whole together, and season it with salt. Have 
 ready the yolks of two eggs, beat up with a quarter 
 of a pint of cream, and a little grated nutmeg. Mix 
 this with the sauce, keep stirring it one way till it is 
 thick, then pour it over the ragoo, and serve it to table. 
 
118 
 
 RAGOOING VEGETABLES. 
 
 Cabbage Force JYIaigre. 
 
 Take a fine white-heart cabbage, wash it clean, 
 and boil it about five minutes. Then drain it, cut the 
 stalk flat to stand in a dish, carefully open the leaves, 
 and take out the inside, leaving the outside leaves 
 whole. Cut what you take out very fine : then take 
 the flesh of two or three flounders or plaice, and chop 
 it with the cabbage, the yolks and whites of four eggs 
 boiled hard, and a handful of picked parsley. Beat 
 all together in a mortar ith a quarter of a pound of 
 melted butter. Then mix it up with the yolk of an 
 egg, and a few crumbs of bread. Fill the cabbage 
 with this, and tie it together : put it into a deep stew- 
 pan, with half a pint of water, a quarter of a pound of 
 butter rolled in a little flour, the yolks of four eggs boil- 
 ed hard, an onion stuck with six cloves, some whole 
 pepper and mace tied in a piece of muslin, half an 
 ounce of truffles and morels, a spoonful of catsup, and a 
 few pickled mushrooms. Cover it close, and let it 
 simmer an hour. When it is done, take out the onion 
 and spice, lay the cabbage in your dish, untie it, pour 
 over the sauce, and serve it to table. 
 
 Asparagus forced in French Rolls. 
 
 Cut a piece out of the crust of the tops of three 
 French rolls, and take out all the crumb : but be care- 
 ful that the crusts fit again in the places from whence 
 they were taken. Fry the rolls brown in fresh but- 
 ter : then take a pint of cream, the yolks of six eggs 
 well beat fine, and a little salt and nutmeg. Stir them 
 together over a slow fire till it begins to be thick. 
 Have ready an hundred of small grass boiled, and save 
 tops enough to stick the rolls with. Cut the rest of 
 the tops small, put them into the cream, and fill the 
 loaves with them. Before you fry the rolls, make 
 holes thick in the top crusts to stick the grass in, which 
 will make it look as if it was growing. This makes a 
 very handsome side dish at a second course. 
 
 Peas Franqois. 
 
 Shell a quart of peas, cut a large Spanish onion 
 
GRAVIES. 
 
 119 
 
 small, and two cabbage or Silesia lettuces. Put them 
 into a stew-pan, with half a pint of water, a little salt, 
 pepper, mace, and nutmeg, all beaten. Cover them 
 close, and let them stew a quarter of an hour. Then 
 put in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter rolled in a 
 little flour, a spoonful of catsup, and a piece of butter 
 about the sixe of a nutmeg. Cover them close, and 
 let it simmer a quarter of an hour, observing frequent- 
 ly to shake the pan. Have ready four artichoke 
 bottoms fried, and cut in two, and when you pour the 
 peas with their sauce into a dish, lay them round 
 it. If you choose to make a pleasing addition, do a 
 cabbage in the manner directed in the article Cab- 
 bage Force-maigre, and put in the middle of the 
 dish. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 GRAVIES, CULLISES, and other SAUCES. 
 
 IN the preceding chapters we have, where a proper 
 opportunity offered, directed the necessary sauces to 
 be made for each respective article ; but as there are 
 many others which are used for different purposes, 
 and on various occasions, we shall place them in the 
 present chapter, beginning with 
 
 Gravies. 
 
 To make beef gravy, take a piece of the chuck, or 
 neck, and cut it into small pieces ; then strew some 
 flour over it, mix it well with the meat, and put it 
 into the saucepan, with as much water as will cover 
 it, an onion, a little allspice, a little pepper, and 
 some salt. Cover it close, and when it boils take off 
 the scum, then throw in a hard crust of bread, or 
 some raspings, and let it stew till the gravy is rich 
 and good, then strain it off, and pour it into your sauce 
 boat. 
 
 J1 very rich Gravy. 
 
 Take a piece of lean beef, a piece of veal, and a 
 piece of mutton, and cut them into small bits : then 
 
120 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 take a large saucepan with a cover, lay your beef at 
 the bottom, then your mutton, then a very little piece 
 of bacon, a slice or two of carrot, some mace, cloves, 
 whole black and white pepper, a large onion cut in 
 slices, a bundle of sweet herbs, and then lay on your 
 veal. Cover it close, and set it over a slow fire for six 
 or seven minutes, and shake the saucepan often. Then 
 dust some flour into it, and pour in boiling water till 
 the meat is something more than covered. Cover 
 your saucepan close, and let it stew till it is rich and 
 good. Then season it to your taste with salt, and 
 strain it off. This gravy will be so good as to answer 
 most purposes. 
 
 Brown Gravy. 
 
 Put a piece of butter, about the size of a hen’s egg, 
 into a saucepan, and when it is melted shake in a little 
 flour, and let it be brown. Then by degrees stir in 
 the following ingredients : half a pint of water, and 
 the same quantity of ale or small beer that is not bit- 
 ter ; an onion and a piece of lemon-peel cut small, three 
 cloves, a blade of mace, some wdiole pepper, a spoon- 
 ful of mushroom pickle, the same quantity of catsup, 
 and an anchovy. Let the whole boil together a quar- 
 ter of an hour, then strain it, and it will be good for 
 sauce for various dishes. 
 
 Sauce Italian. 
 
 Pu r a piece of fresh butter into your stew-pan, 
 with some mushrooms, onions, parsley, and the half of 
 a laurel leaf, all cut fine ; turn the whole over the fire 
 some time, and shake in a little flour ; moisten it with 
 a glass of white wine, as much good broth, adding salt, 
 pepper, and a little mace beat fine. Let it boil half 
 an hour ; then skim away the fat, and serve it up. You 
 may give it a fine flavour while boiling, by putting in 
 a bunch of sweet herbs, hut take them out before you 
 serve the sauce. 
 
 Sauce Piquante. 
 
 Put a bit of butter with two sliced onions into a 
 stew-pan, a carrot, a parsnip, a little thyme, laurel, 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 121 
 
 basil, two cloves, two shalots, a clove of garlic, and 
 some parsley; turn the whole over the fire till' it be 
 well coloured ; then shake in some flour, and moisten 
 it with some broth and a spoonful of vinegar. Let it 
 boil over a slow' fire, and skim and strain it through a 
 sieve. Season it with salt and pepper, and serve it 
 with any dish you wish to be heightened. 
 
 Sauce Piquante, to serve cold. 
 
 Cut some salad herbs very fine, with half a clove 
 of garlic, and two shalots : mix the whole with mus- 
 tard, sweet oil, a dash of vinegar, some salt and pepper. 
 
 A Cullis for all sorts of Ragoos and rich Sauces. 
 
 Take about two pounds of leg of veal, and two 
 slices of lean ham, and put them into a stew-pan, 
 with two or three cloves, a little nutmeg, a blade of 
 mace, some parsley roots, tw T o carrots cut in pieces, 
 some shalots, and two bay-leaves. Set them over a 
 slow fire, cover them close, and let them do gently for 
 half an hour, taking care they do not burn : then put 
 in some beef broth, let it stew till it is as rich as re- 
 quired, and then strain it off for use. 
 
 A Family Cullis. 
 
 Take a piece of butter rolled in flour, and stir it in 
 your stew pan till your flour is of a fine yellow colour ; 
 then put in some thin broth, a little gravy, a glass of 
 white wine, a bundle of parsley, thyme, laurel and 
 sweet-basil, two cloves, a little nutmeg or mace, a few 
 mushrooms, and pepper and salt. Let it stew an hour 
 over a slow fire, then skim all the fat clean off, and 
 strain it through a lawn sieve. 
 
 A White Cullis. 
 
 Cut a piece of veal into thin bits, and put it into a 
 stew-pan, with two or three slices of lean ham, and 
 two onions, each cut into four pieces ; then put in 
 some broth, and season with mushrooms, parsley., 
 green onions, and cloves. Let it stew till the virtues 
 
 No. 6. Q 
 
122 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 of all are pretty well extracted, then take out all your 
 meat and roots with a skimmer, put in a few crumbs 
 of bread, and let it stew softly. Take the white part 
 of a young fowl, and pound it in a mortar till it is very 
 fine, put this into your cullis, but do not let it boil ; if 
 it does not appear sufficiently white, you must add two 
 dozen of blanched almonds. When it has stewed till 
 it is of a good rich taste, strain it off. 
 
 A Cullis for Fish. 
 
 Broil a jack or pike till it is properly done, then 
 take off’ the skin, and separate the flesh from the bones. 
 Boil six eggs hard, and take out the yolks ; blanch a 
 few almonds, beat them to a paste in a mortar, and then 
 add the yolks of the eggs : mix these well with butter, 
 then put in the fish, and pound ail together. Then 
 take half a dozen of onions, and cut them into slices, 
 two parsnips, and three carrots. Set on a stew-pan, 
 put into it a piece of butter to brown, and when it boils 
 put in the roots ; turn them till they are brown, and 
 then pour in a little broth to moisten them. When it 
 has boiled a few minutes, strain it into another sauce- 
 pan ; then put in a whole leek, some parsley, sweet- 
 basil, half a dozen cloves, some mushrooms and truffles, 
 and a few crumbs of bread. When it has stewed 
 gently a quarter of an hour, put in the fish, &c. from 
 the mortar. Let the whole stew some time longer, 
 but be careful it does not boil. When sufficiently done, 
 strain it through a coarse sieve. This is a very pro- 
 per sauce to thicken all made dishes. 
 
 Ham Sauce. 
 
 Cut some thin slices of the lean part of a dressed 
 ham, and beat it with a rolling-pin to a mash. Put it 
 into a saucepan, with a tea-cup full of gravy, and set it 
 over a slow fire : but keep stirring it to prevent its 
 sticking at the bottom. When it has been on some 
 time, put in a bunch of sweet herbs, half a pint of beef 
 gravy, and some pepper. Cover it close, let it stew 
 over a gentle fire, and when it is quite done, strain it 
 off. This is a very good sauce for any kind of veal. 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 123 
 
 Essence of Ham. 
 
 Take three or four pounds of lean ham, and cut it 
 into pieces about an inch thick. Lay them in the 
 bottom of a stew-pan, with slices of carrots, parsnips, 
 and three or four onions cut thin. Let them stew till 
 they stick to the pan, but do not let it burn. Then 
 pour on some strong veal gravy by degrees, some fresh 
 mushrooms cut in pieces, (but if not to be had, mush- 
 room powder,) truffles and morels, cloves, basil, pars- 
 ley, a crust of bread, and a leek. Cover it down close, 
 and when it has simmered till it is of a good thickness 
 and flavour, strain it off. If you have preserved the 
 gravy from a dressed ham, you may use it with the 
 before-mentioned ingredients, instead of the ham, 
 which will make it equally good, but not quite so high 
 flavoured. 
 
 A Sauce for Lamb. 
 
 Take a bit of butter, and mix it with shred pars- 
 ley, shalots, and a little crumb of bread grated very 
 fine. Put the whole into a stew-pan with a glass of 
 good broth and as much white wine, and let it boil some 
 little time. Season it with pepper and salt ; and when 
 you use it squeeze a lemon into it. 
 
 Sauce for any kind of Roast Meat. 
 
 Take an anchovy, wash it clean, and put to it a 
 glass of red wine, some gravy, a shalot cut small, and 
 a little juice of a lemon. Stew these together, strain it 
 off, and mix it with the gravy that runs from the meat. 
 
 A White Sauce. 
 
 Put some good meat broth into a stew-pan, with a 
 good piece of crumb of bread, a bunch of parsley, sha- 
 lots, thyme, laurel, basil, a clove, a little grated nut- 
 meg, some whole mushrooms, a glass of white wine, 
 salt, and pepper. Let the whole boil till half is con- 
 sumed, then strain it through a sieve ; and when you 
 are ready to use it, put in the yolks of three eggs, 
 beat up with some cream, and thicken it over the fire, 
 taking care that the eggs do not curdle. This sauce 
 
124 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 may be used with all sorts of meat or fish that is done 
 white. 
 
 Sauce for most kinds of Fish. 
 
 Take some mutton or veal gravy, and put to it a 
 little of the liquor that drains from your fish. Put it 
 into a saucepan, with an onion, an anchovy, a spoonful 
 of catsup, and a glass of white wine. Thicken it with 
 a lump of butter rolled in flour, and a spoonful of cream. 
 If you have oysters, cockles, or shrimps, put them in 
 after you take it off the fire, but it will be exceeding 
 good without. If you have no cream, instead of white 
 wine you must use red. 
 
 Sauce Nonpareil. 
 
 Take a turnip, carrot, and some mushrooms, cut 
 them into a dish, and put them into a stew-pan with 
 some butter. Let them go gently on till tender, then 
 add some good gravy, a glass of white wine, some salt, 
 mace, and pepper, with a few girkins and a dash of 
 vinegar. Roll a little butter in flour to thicken your 
 sauce. This sauce is very good for braised lamb. 
 
 Sauce a-la-Menehout. 
 
 Put a little cullis into a stew-pan, with a piece of 
 imtter rolled in flour, salt and pepper, the yolks of two 
 eggs, three or four shalots cut small, and thicken it 
 over the fire. This sauce should be thick, and may 
 be used with every dish that is done a-la- Saint Mene- 
 hout. It is spread over the meat or fish, which is 
 afterwards covered with grated bread, and browned 
 with a hot salamander. 
 
 Egg Sauce. 
 
 Boil two eggs till they are hard : first chop the whites, 
 then the yolks, but neither of them very fine, and put 
 them together. Then put them into a quarter of a 
 pound of good melted butter, and stir them well 
 together. 
 
 Bread Sauce. 
 
 Cut a large piece of crumb from a stale loaf, and 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 125 
 
 put it into a saucepan, with half a pint of water, an 
 onion, a blade of mace, and a few pepper-corns in a 
 bit of cloth. Boil them a few minutes, then take out 
 the onion and spice, mash the bread very smooth, and 
 add to it a piece of butter and a little salt. 
 
 Anchovy Sauce. 
 
 Take an anchovy, and put into it half a pint of 
 gravy, with a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in 
 a little flour, and stir all together till it boils. You 
 may add, at your discretion, a little lemon-juice, cat- 
 sup, red wine or walnut liquor. 
 
 Shrimp Sauce. 
 
 Was h half a pint of shrimps very clean, and put 
 them into a stew-pan, with a spoonful of anchovy li- 
 quor, and half a pound of butter melted thick. Boil 
 it up for five minutes, and squeeze in half a lemon. Toss 
 t up, and pour it into your sauce-boat. 
 
 Oyster Sauce. 
 
 When the oysters are opened, preserve the liquor, 
 and strain it through a fine sieve. Wash the oysters 
 very clean, and take off the beards. Put them into a 
 stew-pan, and pour the liquor over them. Then add a 
 large spoonful of anchovy liquor, half a lemon, two 
 blades of mace, and thicken it with butter rolled in 
 flour. Put in half a pound of butter, and boil it up till 
 the butter is melted. Then take out the mace and le- 
 mon, and squeeze the lemon-juice into the sauce. 
 Give it a boil, stirring it all the time, and put it into 
 your sauce-boat. 
 
 To melt Butter. 
 
 Keep a plated or tin saucepan for the purpose only 
 of melting butter. Put a little water at the bottom, 
 and a dust of flour. Shake them together, and cut 
 the butter in slices. As it melts shake it one way ; 
 .et it boil up, and it will be smooth and thick. 
 
126 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 Caper Sauce. 
 
 Take some capers, chop half of them very fine, 
 and put the rest in whole. Chop also some parsley, 
 with a little grated bread, and some salt ; put them 
 into butter melted very smooth, let them boil up, and 
 then pour it into your sauce-boat. 
 
 Shalot Sauce. 
 
 Chop five or six shalots very fine, put them into a 
 saucepan with a gill of gravy, a spoonful of vinegar, 
 and some pepper and salt. Stew them for a minute, 
 and then pour them into your dish or sauce-boat. 
 
 Lemon Sauce for boiled Foivls. 
 
 Take a lemon and pare off the rind, then cut it 
 into slices, take the kernels out, and cut it into small 
 square bits ; blanch the liver of the fowl, and chop it 
 fine ; mix the lemon and liver together in a boat, pour 
 on some hot melted butter, and stir it up. 
 
 Gooseberry Sauce. 
 
 Put some coddled gooseberries, a little juice of sor- 
 rel, and a little ginger, into some melted butter. 
 
 Fennel Sauce 
 
 Boil a bunch of fennel and parsley, chop it very 
 small, and stir it into some melted butter. 
 
 Mint Sauce. 
 
 Wash your mint perfectly clean from grit or dirt, 
 then chop it very fine, and put to it vinegar and sugar. 
 
 A relishing Sauce. 
 
 o 
 
 Put into a small stew-pan two slices of ham, a clove 
 of garlic, a laurel leaf, and two sliced onions ; let them 
 heat, and then add a little broth, two spoonsful of cul- 
 lis, and a spoonful of tarragon vinegar. Stew them 
 an hour over a slow fire, then strain it through a sieve, 
 and pour it into your sauce-boat. 
 
 To crisp Parsley. 
 
 When you have picked and washed your parsley 
 quite clean, put it into a Dutch oven, or on a sheet of 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 127 
 
 paper. Set at a moderate distance from the fire, and 
 keep turning it till it is quite crisp. Lay little bits of 
 butter on it, but not to make it greasy. This is a 
 much better method than that of frying. 
 
 Sauce for Wild Ducks , Teal, $c. 
 
 Take a proper quantity of veal gravy, with some 
 pepper and salt ; squeeze in the juice of two Seville 
 oranges, and add a little red wine ; let the red wine 
 boil some time in the gravy. 
 
 Pontiff Sauce. 
 
 Put two or three slices of lean veal, and the same 
 of ham, into a stew-pan, with some sliced onions, car- 
 rot, parsley, and a head of celery. When brown, add 
 a little white wine, some good broth, a clove of garlic, 
 four shalots, two cloves, a little coriander, and two 
 slices of lemon-peel. Boil it over a slow fire till the 
 juices are extracted from the meat, then skim it, and 
 strain it through a sieve. Just before you use it, add 
 a little cullis with some parsley chopped very fine. 
 
 Aspic Sauce. 
 
 Infuse chervil, tarragon, burnet, garden cress, and 
 mint, into a little cullis for about half an hour ; then 
 strain it, and add a spoonful of garlic- vinegar, with a 
 little pepper and salt. 
 
 Forcemeat Balls. 
 
 Take half a pound of veal and half a pound of suet 
 cut fine, and beat them in a marble mortar or wooden 
 bowl, shred a few sweet herbs fine, a little mace dried, 
 a small nutmeg grated, a little lemon-peel cut very fine, 
 some pepper and salt, and the yolks of two eggs. Mix 
 all these well together, then roll some of it in small 
 round balls, and some in long pieces. Roll them in 
 flour, and fry them of a nice brown. If they are for 
 the use of white sauce, instead of frying, put a uttle 
 water into a saucepan, and when it boils, put them in, 
 and a few minutes will do them. 
 
J 28 
 
 MADE DISHES. 
 
 Lemon Pickle. 
 
 Take about a score of lemons, grate off the out 
 rinds very thin, and cut them into quarters, but leave 
 the bottoms whole. Rub on them equally half a pound 
 of bay-salt, and spread them on a large pewter dish. 
 Either put them in a cool oven, or let them dry gradu- 
 ally by the fire, till the juice is all dried into the peels ; 
 then put them into a well glazed pitcher, with an 
 ounce of mace, and half an ounce of cloves beat 
 fine, an ounce of nutmeg cut into thin slices, four 
 ounces of garlic peeled, half a pint of mustard-seed 
 bruised a little, and tied in a muslin bag. Pour 
 upon them two quarts of boiling white wine vine- 
 gar, close the pitcher well up, and let it stand five 
 or six days by the fire. Shake it well up every day, 
 then tie it close, and let it stand three months to take 
 off the bitter. When you bottle it, put the pickle and 
 emon into a hair sieve, press them well to get out the 
 liquor, and let it stand till another day : then pour olf 
 the fine, and bottle it. Let the other stand three or 
 four days, and it will refine itself. Pour it off and bot- 
 tle it, let it stand again, and bottle it till the whole is re- 
 fined. It may be put into any white sauce and will not 
 hurt tile colour. It is very good for fish sauce and made 
 dishes. One tea-spoonful is enough for white, and two 
 for brown sauce for a fowl. It is a most useful pic- 
 kle, and gives a pleasant flavour. Always put it in be- 
 fore you thicken the sauce, or put any cream in, lest the 
 sharpness should make it curdle. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 MADE D I S HE S. 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT. 
 
 Bombarded Veal. 
 
 TAKE a fillet of veal, and having clean cut out the 
 bone, make a forcemeat thus : take the crumb of a 
 penny loaf, half a pound of fat bacon scraped, an an- 
 
MEAT. 
 
 129 
 
 chovy, two or three sprigs of sweet mar jorum, a little 
 lemon-peel, thyme, and parsley. Chop these well to- 
 gether, and season them to your taste with salt, chyan 
 pepper, add a little grated nutmeg. Mix up all toge- 
 ther with an egg and a little cream ; and with this 
 forcemeat fill up the place from whence the bone was 
 taken. Then make cuts all round the fillet at about 
 an inch distance from each other. Fill one nich with 
 forcemeat, a second with spinach that has been well 
 boiled and squeezed, and a third with crumbs of bread, 
 chopped oysters, and beef marrow, and thus fill up the 
 holes round the fillet ; wrap the caul close round it, 
 and put it into a deep pot, with a pint of water. Make 
 n coarse paste to lay over it, in order to prevent the oven 
 giving it a disagreeable taste. When it is taken out 
 of the oven, skim off the fat, and put the gravy into a 
 stew-pan, with a spoonful of mushroom catsup, another 
 of lemon-pickle, five boiled artichoke bottoms cut into 
 quarters, tw T o spoonsful of browning, and half an ounce 
 of morels and truffles. Thicken it with butter rolled 
 in flour, give it a gentle boil, put your veal into the dish, 
 and pour your sauce over it. 
 
 Fricandeau of Veal. 
 
 Take the thick part of the leg of veal, shape it 
 nicely oval, lard it well, and put it into boiling water. 
 Let it boil up once, then take it out, and put into your 
 stew-pan some slices of veal, roots, sw eet herbs, with 
 salt, pepper, and mace. Put in half a pint of gravy, 
 then put in your fricandeau, covering it with some pep- 
 per and butter. Let it go gently on for three hours, 
 then take it out and glaze it. You may serve it w 7 ith 
 sorrel sauce, which is almost always used, or glazed 
 onions, or endive sauce. If the larded fricandeau lies 
 a few hours in water, it will be a great deal the whiter. 
 
 Veal Olives. 
 
 Cut some large collopsoff a fillet of veal, and hack 
 them well with the back of a knife. Spread very thin- 
 ly forcemeat over each, then roll them up, and either 
 
 fJo. 6 . it 
 
MADE DISHES. 
 
 130 
 
 toast or bake them. Make a ragoo of oysters or sweet- 
 breads cut in square bits, a few mushrooms and morels, 
 and lay them in the dish with rolls of veal. Put nice 
 brown gravy into the dish, and send them up hot, with 
 forcemeat balls round them. Garnish with lemon. 
 
 Grenadines of Veal. 
 
 These are done the same as the fricandeau, ex- 
 cepting that the veal is cut into slices. Three pieces 
 make a dish ; and they are served with the same 
 sauces. 
 
 Veal Cutlets en Papilotes. 
 
 Cut them thin, and put them in square pieces of 
 white paper, with salt, pepper, parsley, shalots, mush- 
 rooms, all shred fine, with butter ; twist the paper 
 round the cutlets ; letting the end remain uncovered ; 
 rub the outside of the paper with butter ; lay the cut- 
 lets upon the gridiron over a slow fire, with a sheet of 
 buttered paper under them. Serve them in the papers. 
 
 Porcupine of a Breast of Veal. 
 
 T are a fine large breast of veal, bone it, and rub it 
 over with the yolks of two eggs. Spread it on a table, 
 and lay over it a little bacon cut as thin as possible, a 
 handful of parsley shred fine, the yolks of five hard 
 boiled eggs chopped small, a little lemon-peel cut fine, 
 the crumb of a penny loaf steeped in cream, and sea- 
 son to your taste with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Roll 
 the breast of veal close, and skewer it up. Then cut 
 some fat bacon, the lean of ham that has been a little 
 boiled, and pickled cucumbers, about two inches long. 
 Lard the veal with this in rows, first ham, then bacon, 
 and then cucumbers, till you have larded every part of 
 it. Put it into a deep earthen pot, with a pint of water, 
 cover it close, and set it in a slow* oven for two hours. 
 Wh en it comes from the oven, skim off the fat, and 
 strain the gravy through a sieve into a stew T -pan. Put 
 into it a glass of w hite wine, a little lemon-pickle and 
 caper liquor, and a spoonful of mushroom catsup. 
 Thicken it with a little butter rolled in flour, lay your 
 
MEAT. 
 
 131 
 
 porcupine on the dish, and pour your sauce over it. 
 Have ready a roll of forcemeat made thus : take the 
 crumb of a penny loaf, half a pound of beef suet shred 
 fine, the yolks of four eggs, and a few chopped oysters. 
 Mix these well together, and season it to your taste 
 with chyan pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Spread it on a 
 veal caul, and having rolled it up close like a collared 
 eel, bind it in a cloth, and boil it an hour. This done, 
 cut it into four slices, lay one at each end and the 
 others on the sides. Have ready your sweet-bread 
 cut in slices and fried, and lay them round it with a 
 few mushrooms. This makes a grand bottom dish at 
 that time of the year w r hen game is not to be had. 
 
 Fricandeau of Veal a-la-Bourgeois. 
 
 Cut some lean veal into thin slices, lard them with 
 streaked bacon, and season them with pepper, salt, 
 beaten mace, cloves, nutmeg, and chopped parsley. 
 Put in the bottom of your stew-pan some slices of fat 
 bacon, lay the veal upon them, cover the pan, and set 
 it over the fire for eight or ten minutes, just to be hot 
 and no more. Then with a brisk fire, brown your veal 
 on both sides, and shake some flour over it. Pour in 
 a quart of good broth or gravy, cover it close, and let it 
 stew gently till it is enough. Then take out the slices 
 of bacon, skim all the fat off clean, and beat up the 
 yolks of three eggs, with some of the gravy. Mix all 
 together, and keep it stirring one way till it is smooth 
 and thick. Then take it up, lay your meat in the dish, 
 pour the sauce over it, and garnish with lemon. 
 
 Calf's Head Surprise. 
 
 When you have properly cleansed it for dressing, 
 scrape a pound of fat bacon very fine, take the crumbs 
 of two penny loaves, a small nutmeg grated, and sea- 
 son it to your taste with salt, chyan pepper, and a lit- 
 tle lemon-peel. Beat up the yolks of six eggs, and 
 mix all together into a rich forcemeat. Put a little of 
 it into the ears, and the rest into the head. Then put 
 it into a deep pot, just wide enough to admit it, and 
 
132 
 
 MADE DISHES. 
 
 put to it two quarts of water, half a pint of white 
 wine, a blade or two of mace, a bundle of sweet herbs, 
 an anchovy, two spoonsful of walnut and mushroom 
 catsup, the same quantity of lemon-pickle, and a little 
 salt and chyan pepper. Lay a coarse paste over it to 
 keep in the steam, and put it for two hours and a half 
 into a very quick oven. When you take it out, lay 
 your head in a soup-dish, skim off the fat from the 
 gravy, and strain it through a hair sieve into a stew- 
 pan. Thicken it with a lump of butter rolled in flour, 
 and when it has boiled a few minutes, put in the yolks 
 of six eggs well beaten, and mixed with half a pint 
 of cream. Have ready boiled a few forcemeat balls, 
 and half an ounce of truffles and morels, but do not 
 stew them in the gravy. Pour the gravy over the head, 
 and garnish with truffles and morels, forcemeat balls, 
 barberries, and mushrooms. This makes an elegant 
 top dish, and is not very expensive. 
 
 A Calf's Pluck. 
 
 Roast the heart stuffed with suet, sweet herbs, and 
 a little parsley, all chopped small, a few crumbs of 
 bread, some pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little lemon - 
 peel, all mixed up with the yolk of an egg. Boil the 
 lights with part of the liver, and when they are enough 
 chop them very small, and put them into a saucepan 
 with a piece of butter rolled in flour, some pepper and 
 salt, and a little juice of lemon. Fry the other part 
 of the liver with some thin slices of bacon. Lay the 
 mince at the bottom of the dish, the heart in the middle, 
 and the fried liver and bacon round, with some crisped 
 parsley. Serve them up with plain melted butter in 
 a sauce-boat. 
 
 Loin of Veal en Epigram. 
 
 Roast a loin of veal properly for eating, then take 
 it up, and carefully cut off the skin from the back 
 part without breaking it. Cut out the lean part, but 
 leave the ends whole, to contain the following mince- 
 meat : mi^ce all the veal very fine with the kidney 
 
MEAT. 
 
 133 
 
 part, put it into a little gravy, enough to moisten it 
 with the gravy that comes from the loin Put in a 
 little pepper and salt, some lemon-peel shred fine, the 
 yolks of three eggs, and a spoonful of catsup. Thicken 
 it with a little butter rolled in flour. Give it a shake 
 or two over the fire, put it into the loin, and pull the 
 skin gently over it. If the skin should not quite cover 
 it, give the part wanting a brown with a hot iron, or 
 put it into an oven for about a quarter of an hour. 
 Send it up hot, and garnish with lemon and barberries. 
 
 Pillow of Veal. 
 
 Half roast a neck or breast of veal, then cut it in- 
 to six pieces, and season it with pepper, salt, and nut- 
 meg. Take a pound of rice, and put it to a quart of 
 broth, some mace, and a little salt. Stew it over a 
 stove on a very slow fire till it is thick ; but butter the 
 bottom of the pan you do it in. Beat up the yolks of 
 six eggs, and stir them into it. Then take a little round 
 deep dish, butter it, and lay some of the rice at the 
 bottom. Then lay the veal in a round heap, and cover 
 it over all with rice. Rub it over with the yolks of 
 eggs, and bake it an hour and a half. Then open the 
 top, and pour in a pint of good rich gravy. Send it 
 hot to table, and garnish with a Seville orange cut in 
 quarters. 
 
 Shoulder of Veal a-la-Piedmontoise. 
 
 Cut the skin of a shoulder of veal, so that it may 
 hang at one end ; then lard the meat with bacon or 
 ham, and season it with pepper, salt, mace, sweet 
 herbs, parsley, and lemon-peel. Cover it again with 
 the skin, stew it with gravy, and when it is tender take 
 it up. Then take sorrel, some lettuce chopped small, 
 and stew them in some butter with parsley, onions, 
 and mushrooms. When the herbs are tender, put to 
 them some of the liquor, some sweet-breads and bits of 
 ham. Let all stew together a short time ; then lift up 
 the skin, lay the stewed herbs over and under, 
 cover it again with the skin, moisten it with melted 
 
134 
 
 MADE DISHES. 
 
 butter, strew over it crumbs of bread, and send it tc 
 the oven to brown. Serve it up hot with some good 
 gravy in the dish. 
 
 Sweetbreads of Veal a-la-Dauphine. 
 
 Take three of the largest sweetbreads you can get, 
 and open them in such a manner that you can stuff in 
 forcemeat. Make your forcemeat with a large fowl : 
 skin it, and pick off all the flesh. Then take half a 
 pound of fat and lean bacon, cut it very fine, and beat 
 them in a mortar. Season it with an anchovy, some 
 nutmeg, a little lemon-peel, a very little thyme, and 
 some parsley. Mix these up with the yolks of two eggs, 
 fill your sweetbreads with it, and fasten them together 
 with fine wooden skewers. Put layers of bacon at the 
 bottom of a stew-pan, and season them with pepper, 
 salt, mace, cloves, sweet herbs, and a large onion sliced . 
 Lay upon these thin slices of veal, and then your sweet- 
 breads. Cover it close, let it stand eight or ten mi- 
 nutes over a slow fire, and then pour in a quart of 
 boiling water or broth, and let it stew gently for two 
 hours. Then take out the sweetbreads, keep them 
 hot, strain the gravy, skim all the fat off, and boil it up 
 till it is reduced to about half a pint. Then put in 
 the sweetbreads, and let them stew two or three mi- 
 nutes in the gravy. Lay them in a dish, and pour 
 the gravy over them. Garnish with lemon. 
 
 Sweetbreads en Gordineere. 
 
 Parboil three sweetbreads : then take a stew-pan, 
 and put into it layers of bacon, or ham and veal ; over 
 which lay the sweetbreads, with the upper sides down- 
 wards. Put in a layer of veal and bacon over them, 
 a pint of veal broth, and three or four blades of mace. 
 Stew them gently three quarters of an hour ; then 
 take out the sweetbreads, strain the gravy through a 
 sieve, and skim off the fat. Make an amulet of yolks 
 of eggs, in the following manner : beat up four yolks 
 of eggs, put two on a plate, and set them over a stew- 
 pan of boiling water, with another plate over it, and 
 
MEAT. 
 
 135 
 
 .t will be soon done. Put a little spinach juice into the 
 other half, and serve it the same. Cut it out in sprigs 
 of what form you please, put it over the sweetbreads 
 in the dish, and keep them as hot as you can. Thick- 
 en the gravy with butter rolled in flour and two yolks 
 of eggs beat up in a gill of cream. Put it over the fire, 
 and keep stirring it one way till it is thick and smooth. 
 Pour it over the sweetbreads, and send it to table. 
 Garnish with lemon and beet-root. 
 
 Sweetbi'ecids a-la-daub. 
 
 Take three of the largest and finest sweetbreads 
 you can get, and put them for five minutes into a 
 saucepan of boiling water. Then take them out, and 
 when they are cold, lard them with small pieces of 
 bacon. Put them into a stew-pan with some good 
 veal gravy, a little lemon-juice, and a spoonful of 
 browning. Stew them gently a quarter of an hour, 
 and a little before they are ready thicken with flour 
 and butter. Dish them up, and pour the gravy over 
 them. Lay round them bunches of boiled celery, or 
 oyster patties ; and garnish with barberries or parsley. 
 
 Scotch Collops. 
 
 Cut your collops off the thick part of a leg of veal, 
 about the size and thickness of a crown piece, and put 
 a piece of butter browned into your frying-pan, then 
 lay in your collops, and fry them over a quick fire. 
 Shake and turn them, and keep them on a fine froth. 
 When they are of a nice light brown take them out, 
 put them into a pot, and set them before the fire to 
 keep warm. Then put cold butter again into your pan, 
 and fry the collops as before. When they are done, 
 and properly brown, your the liquor from them into a 
 stew-pan, and add to it half a pint of gravy, half a 
 lemon, an anchovy, half an ounce of morels, a large 
 spoonful of browning, the same of catsup, two spoons- 
 ful of lemon-pickle, and season it to your taste with 
 salt and chyan pepper. Thicken it with butter and 
 flour, let it boil five or six minutes, and then put in 
 
136 MADE DISHES. 
 
 your collops, and shake them over the fire, but be 
 careful not to let them boil. When they have sim- 
 mered a little, take them out, and lay them in the 
 dish. Then strain your gravy, and pour it hot on 
 them. Lay on them forcemeat balls, and little slices 
 of bacon curled round a skewer and boiled. Throw 
 a few mushrooms over them, and garnish with bar- 
 berries and lemon. 
 
 Beef Collops. 
 
 Take a large rump stake, or any piece of beef that 
 is tender, and cut it into pieces in the form of Scotch 
 collops, but larger. Hack them a little with a knife, 
 then flour them, and having melted a little butter in 
 your stew-pan, put in your collops, and fry them quick 
 for about two minutes. Then put in a pint of gravy, 
 a bit of butter rolled in flour, and season it with pep- 
 per and salt. Cut four pickled cucumbers into thin 
 slices, a few capers, half a walnut, and a little onion 
 shred fine. Put these into the pan, and having stew- 
 ed the whole together about five minutes, put them all 
 hot into your dish, and send them to table. Garnish 
 with lemon. 
 
 Beef a-la-daub. 
 
 Take a rump of beef, and cut out the bone, or a 
 part of the leg of mutton piece, or what is usually call- 
 ed the mouse-buttock, and cut some fat bacon into 
 slices as long as the beef is thick, and about a quarter 
 of an inch square. Take four blades of mace, double 
 that number of cloves, a little allspice, and half a nut- 
 meg grated fine. Chop a good handful of parsley, and 
 some sweet-herbs of all sorts very fine, and season 
 with salt and pepper. Roll the bacon in these, and 
 then take a large larding-pin, and with it thrust the 
 bacon through the beef. Having done this, put it in- 
 to a stew-pan, with a quantitv of brown gravy suf- 
 ficient to cover it. Chop three blades of garlic very 
 fine, and put in some fresh mushrooms, two large 
 onions, and a carrot.. Stew it gently for six hours, then 
 
MEAT. 
 
 137 
 
 take it out, strain off the gravy, and skim off all the fat. 
 Put your meat and gravy into the pan again, and add 
 to it a gill of white wine ; and if you find it not suf- 
 ficiently seasoned, add a little more pepper and salt. 
 Stew it gently for half an hour more, and then add 
 some artichoke bottoms, morels and truffles, some 
 oysters, and a spoonful of vinegar. Then put the 
 meat into a soup dish, and pour the sauce over it. 
 
 Beef Tremblent. 
 
 Take a brisket of beef, and tie up the fat end quite 
 tight. Put it into a pot of water, and let it boil gently 
 for six hours. Season the water with a little salt, a 
 handful of allspice, two onions, two turnips, and a 
 carrot. In the mean time, put a piece of butter into 
 a stew-pan, and melt it, then put in two spoonsful of 
 flour, and stir it till it is smooth. Put in a quart of 
 gravy, a spoonful of catsup, the same of browning, a 
 gill of white wine, and some turnips and carrots cut 
 into small pieces. Stew them gently till the roots are 
 tender, and season with pepper and salt. Skim the fat 
 clean off, put the beef in the dish, and pour the sauce 
 over it. Garnish with any kind of pickles. 
 
 Beef Kidneys a-la-Bourgeoise. 
 
 Cut them in thin slices, and set them over the fire, 
 with a bit of butter, salt, pepper, parsley, onions, and 
 a small clove of garlic ; the whole shred small : when 
 done, take them off the fire, but do not let them lie 
 long, as they will become tough. Add a few drops of 
 vinegar and a little cullis. Beef kidneys may also be 
 served a-la-braise, with sauce piquante. 
 
 Beef a-la-mode. 
 
 The most proper parts for this purpose are a small 
 buttock, a leg of mutton piece, a clod or part of a large 
 buttock. Being furnished with your meat, take two 
 dozen of cloves, as much mace, and half an ounce nt 
 allspice beat fine, chop a large handful of parsley, and 
 all sorts of sweet herbs fine ; cut some fat bacon as 
 
 !No. 6. S 
 
138 
 
 MADE DISHES. 
 
 long as the beef is thick, and about a quarter of an 
 inch square, and put it into the spice, dec. and into the 
 beef the same. Then put the beef into a pot, and 
 cover it with water. Chop four large onions very fine, 
 and six cloves of garlic, six bay leaves, and a hand- 
 ful of champignons, or fresh mushrooms, put all into 
 the pot, with a pint of porter or ale, and half a pint of 
 red wine ; put in some pepper and salt, some chyan 
 pepper, a spoonful of vinegar, strew three handfuls of 
 bread raspings, sifted fine, all over ; cover the pot close, 
 and stew it for six hours, or according to the size of 
 the piece ; if a large piece, eight hours. Then take 
 the beef out, put it into a deep dish, and keep it hot 
 over some boiling water ; strain the gravy through a 
 sieve, and pick out the champignons or mushrooms ; 
 skim all the fat off clean, put it into your pot again, 
 and give it a boil up ; if not seasoned enough, season 
 it to your liking ; then put the gravy into your beef, 
 and send it hot to table. If you like it best cold, cut 
 it in slices with the gravy over it, which will be a 
 strong jelly. 
 
 Beef a-la-Royal. 
 
 Take all the bones out of a brisket of beef, and 
 make holes in it about an inch from each other. Fill 
 one hole with fat bacon, a second with chopped pars- 
 ley, and a third with chopped oysters. Season these 
 stuffings with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. When the 
 beef is completely stuffed, put it into a pan, pour upon 
 it a pint of wine boiling hot, dredge it well with flour, 
 and send it to the oven. Let it remain there three 
 hours, and when it is taken out, skim off all the fat, 
 put the meat into your dish, and strain the gravy over 
 it. Garnish with pickles. 
 
 Beef Olives. 
 
 Cut some steaks from a rump of beef about half an 
 inch thick, as square as you can, and about ten inches 
 long ; then cut a piece of fat bacon as wide as the beef, 
 and about three parts as long. Put part of the yolk of 
 
MEAT. 
 
 139 
 
 an egg on the bacon. Lay some good savory force- 
 meat, on that some of the yolk of an egg on the force- 
 meat, and then roll them up, and tie them round with 
 a string in two places. Strew on some crumbs of bread, 
 and over them some of the yolk of an egg. Then fry 
 them brown in a large pan, with some beef dripping, 
 and when they are done take them out, and lay them 
 to drain. Melt some butter in a stew-pan, put in a 
 spoonful of flour, and stir it well till it is smooth. — 
 Then put in a pint of good gravy, with a gill of white 
 wine, and then the olives, and let them stew an hour. 
 Add some mushrooms, truffles, and morels, forcemeat 
 balls, sweet-breads cut in small pieces, and some ox- 
 palates. Squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and 
 season it with pepper and salt. Shake them up, and 
 having carefully skimmed off the fat, lay your olives in 
 the dish, and pour the gravy over them. Garnish 
 with lemon and beet root. 
 
 Bouille Beef. 
 
 Put the thick end of a brisket of beef into a kettle 
 and cover it with water. Let it boil fast for two hours, 
 then stew it close by the fire side for six hours more, 
 and fill up the kettle as the water decreases. Put in 
 with the beef some turnips cut in little balls, some car- 
 rots, and some celery. About an hour before the meat 
 is done, take out as much broth as will fill your soup 
 dish, and boil in it for an hour, turnips and carrots cut 
 in little round or square pieces, with some celery, and 
 season it to your taste with salt and pepper. Serve it 
 up in two dishes, the beef in one dish, and the soup 
 in another. You may put pieces of fried bread in your 
 soup, and boil in a few knots of greens ; and when 
 you would have your soup very rich add a pound or 
 two of mutton chops to your broth when you take it 
 from the beef, and let them stew in it for half an hour ; 
 but remember to take out the mutton before you serve 
 the soup up. 
 
 Sirloin of Beef en Epigram. 
 
 Ro ast a sirloin of beef and when it is done, take 
 
140 
 
 MADE DISHES. 
 
 it off the spit, carefully raise the skin, and draw it off. 
 Then cut out the lean part of the beef, but observe 
 not to touch either the ends or sides. Hash the meat 
 in the following manner : cut it into pieces about the 
 size of a crown piece, put half a pint of gravy into a 
 stew-pan, an onion chopped line, two spoonsful of 
 catsup, some pepper and salt, six small pickled cucum- 
 bers cut in thin slices, and the gravy that comes from 
 the beef, with a little butter rolled in flour. Put in 
 the meat, and shake it up for five minutes. Then put 
 it on the sirloins, draw the skin carefully over, and 
 send it to table. Garnish with lemon and pickles. 
 
 The Inside of a Sirloin of Beef forced. 
 
 Lift up the fat of the inside, cut out the meat 
 quite close to the bone, and chop it small. Take a 
 pound of suet, and chop that small ; then put to them 
 some crumbs of bread, a little lemon-peel, thyme, pep- 
 per and salt, half a nutmeg grated, and two shalots 
 chopped fine. Mix all together with a glass of red 
 wine, and then put the meat into the place you took 
 it from cover it with the skin and fat, skewer it down 
 with fine skewers, and cover it with paper. The pa- 
 per must not be taken ofl' till the meat is put on the 
 dish, and your meat must be spitted before you take 
 out the inside. Just before the meat is done, take a 
 quarter of a pint of red wine, and two shalots shred 
 small ; boil them, and pour it into the dish, with the 
 gravy that comes from the meat. Send it hot to table, 
 and garnish with lemon. 
 
 The inside of a rump of beef forced must be done 
 nearly in the same manner, only lift up the outside 
 skin, take the middle of the meat, and proceed as be- 
 fore directed. Put it into the same place, and skewer 
 it down close. 
 
 A Round of Beef forced. 
 
 Rub your meat first with common salt, then a little 
 bay-salt, some salt petre, and coarse sugar. Let it lay 
 a full week in this pickle, turning it every day. On 
 the day it is to be dressed, wash and dry it, lard it a 
 
MEAT. 
 
 141 
 
 little, and make holes, which fill with bread crumbs, 
 marrow, or suet, parsley, grated lemon-peel, sweet 
 herbs, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and the yolk of an egg, 
 made into stuffing. Bake it with a little water and 
 some small beer, whole pepper, and an onion. When 
 it comes from the oven, skim the fat clean off, put the 
 meat into your dish, and pour the liquor over it. In- 
 stead of baking, you may boil it, but it must be done 
 gradually over a slow fire. When cold, it makes a 
 handsome side-board dish for a large company. 
 
 Beef Steaks rolled. 
 
 Take some beef steaks, and beat them with aclea 
 ver till they are tender ; make some forcemeat with a 
 pound of veal beat fine in a mortar, the flesh of a fowl, 
 half a pound of cold ham, or gammon of bacon, fat 
 and lean ; the kidney fat of a loin of veal, and a sweet- 
 bread, all cut very fine ; some truffles and morels 
 stewed, and then cut small two shalots, some parsley, 
 and a little thyme, some lemon -peel, the yolks of four 
 eggs, a nutmeg grated, and half a pint of cream. Mix 
 all these together, and stir them over a slow fire for 
 ten minutes. Put them upon the steaks, and roll 
 them up ; then skewer them tight, put them into 
 the frying-pan, and fry them of a nice brown. Then 
 take them from the fat, and put them into a stew-pan, 
 w 7 ith a pint of good drawn gravy, a spoonful of red 
 wflne, two of catsup, a few pickled mushrooms, and 
 let them stew for a quarter of an hour. Take up the 
 steaks, cut them into two, and lay the cut side upper- 
 most. Garnish with lemon. 
 
 Beef Rump en Matelotte. 
 
 Take your beef rump and cut it in pieces ; parboil 
 them, and then boil them in some broth without any 
 seasoning ; when about half done, stir in a little but- 
 ter with a spoonful of flour over the fire till brown, and 
 moisten it with the broth of your rumps ; then put 
 your rumps in with a dozen of large parboiled onions, 
 a glass of white wine, a bunch of parsley, a laurel 
 
142 
 
 MADE DISHES. 
 
 leaf, with a bunch of sweet herbs, and pepper and 
 salt. Let them stew till the rump and onions are 
 done ; then skim it well, and put an anchovy cut small 
 and some capers cut into the sauce. Put the rump 
 in the middle of the dish with the onions round it. A 
 beef rump will take four hours doing. 
 
 Beef Escarlot. 
 
 The proper piece of beef for this purpose is the 
 brisket, which you must manage as follows : take half 
 a pound of coarse sugar, two ounces of bay salt, and a 
 pound of common salt. Mix these well together, rub 
 the beef with it, put it into an earthen pan, and turn it 
 every day. It may lie in this pickle a fortnight, then 
 boil it, and serve it up with savoys ; but it eats much 
 better when cold, and cut into slices. 
 
 Tongue and Udder forced. 
 
 First parboil them, then blanch the tongue, and 
 stick it with cloves ; then fill the udder with forcemeat 
 made with veal. First wash the inside with the yolk 
 of an egg, then put in the forcemeat, tie the ends close, 
 and spit them, roast them, and baste them with butter. 
 When they are done, put good gravy into the dish, 
 sweet sauce into a cup, and serve them up. 
 
 Tripe a-la- Kilkenny. 
 
 Take a piece of double tripe, and cut it into square 
 pieces ; peel and wash ten large onions, cut each into 
 two, and put them on to boil in water till they are, 
 tender. Then put in your tripe, and boil it ten mi- 
 nutes. Pour off almost all the liquor, shake a little 
 flour into it, and put in some butter, with a little salt 
 and mustard. Shake all over the fire till the butter 
 is melted, then put it into your dish, and send it to 
 table as hot as possible. Garnish with lemon or bar- 
 berries. This dish is greatly admired in Ireland. 
 
 Harrico of Mutton. 
 
 Cut the best end of a neck of mutton into chops, in 
 single ribs, flatten them, and fry them of a light brown. 
 
MEAT. 
 
 143 
 
 Then put them into a large saucepan, with two quarts 
 of water, and a large carrot cut in slices ; and when 
 they have stewed a quarter of an hour, put in two 
 turnips cut in square pieces, the white part of a head 
 of celery, two cabbage lettuces fried, a few heads of 
 asparagus, and season all with a little chyan pepper. 
 Boil all together till tender, and put it into a tureen 
 or soup-dish, without any thickening to the gravy. 
 
 Shoulder of Mutton sui'prised. 
 
 Half boil a shoulder of mutton, and then put it in- 
 to a stew-pan with two quarts of veal gravy, four 
 ounces of rice, a little beaten mace, and a tea spoonful 
 of mushroom powder. Stew it an hour, or till the rice 
 is enough, and then take up your mutton and keep it 
 hot. Put to the rice half a pint of cream, and a piece 
 of butter rolled in flour ; then shake it well, and boil 
 it a few minutes. Lay your mutton on the dish, and 
 pour your gravy over it. Garnish with pickles or bar- 
 berries. 
 
 To dress the Umbles of Deer. 
 
 Take the kidney of a deer, with the fat of the 
 heart ; season them with a little pepper, salt, and nut- 
 meg. First fry, and then stew them in some good 
 gravy till they are tender. Squeeze in a little lemon ; 
 take the skirts, and stuff them with the forcemeat 
 made with the fat of the venison, some fat of bacon, 
 grated bread, pepper, mace, sage, and onion chopped 
 very small. Mix it with the yolk of an egg. When 
 the skirts are stuffed with this, tie them to the spit to 
 roast ; but first strew over them some thyme and le- 
 mon-peel. When they are done, lay the skirts in the 
 middle of the dish, and then fricasee round it. 
 
 Mutton Kehohhed. 
 
 Cut a loin of mutton into four pieces, then take off 
 the skin, rub them with the yolk of an egg, and strew 
 over them a few crumbs of bread and a little parsley, 
 shred fine. Spit and roast them, and keep basting 
 them all the time with fresh butter, in order to make 
 
144 
 
 MADE DISHES. 
 
 the froth rise. When they are properly done, put a 
 little brown gravy under them, and send them to table. 
 Garnish with pickles. 
 
 Leg of Mutton a-la-haut Gout. 
 
 Take a line leg of mutton that has hung a fort- 
 night, (if the weather will permit,) and stuff every part 
 of it with some cloves of garlic, rub it with pepper 
 and salt, and then roast it. When it is properly done, 
 send it up with some good gravy and red wine in the 
 dish. 
 
 Leg of Mutton roasted with Oysters. 
 
 Take a line leg of mutton that has hung two or 
 three days, stuff every part of it with oysters, roast it, 
 and when done, pour some good gravy into the dish, 
 and garnish with horse-radish. If you prefer cockles 
 you must proceed in the same manner. 
 
 Shoulder of Mutton en Epigram. 
 
 Roast a shoulder of mutton till it is nearly enough, 
 then carefully take off the skin about the thickness of 
 a crown-piece, and also the shank-bone at the end. 
 Season both the skin and shank-bone with pepper, 
 salt, a little lemon-peel cut small, and a few sweet 
 herbs and crumbs of bread : lay this on the gridiron 
 till it is of a line brown ; and, in the meantime, take 
 the rest of the meat, and cut it like a hash in pieces, 
 about the bigness of a shilling. Save the gravy, and 
 put to it, with a few spoonsful of strong gravy, a little 
 nutmeg, half an onion cut line, a small bundle of herbs, 
 a little pepper and salt, some girkins cut very small, a 
 few mushrooms, two or three truffles cut small, two 
 spoonsful of wine, and a little flour dredged into it. 
 Let all these stew together very slowly for live or six 
 minutes, but be careful it does not boil. Take out the 
 sweet herbs, lay the hash in the dish, and the broiled 
 upon it. Garnish with pickles. 
 
 Sheep's Rumps and Kidneys. 
 
 Boil six sheep's rumps in veal gravy ; then lard 
 your kidneys with bacon, and set them before the lire 
 
MEAT. 
 
 145 
 
 in a tin oven ; as soon as the rumps become tender, 
 rub them over with the yolk of an egg, a little grated 
 nutmeg, and some chyan pepper. Skim the fat from 
 the gravy, and put the gravy in a stew-pan, with 
 three ounces of boiled rice, a spoonful of good cream, 
 and a little catsup and mushroom powder. Thicken 
 it with flour and butter, and give it a gentle boil. Fry 
 your rumps till they are of a light brown ; and when 
 you dish them up, lay them round on the rice, so that 
 the ends may meet in the middle ; lay a kidney be- 
 tween every rump, and garnish with barberries and 
 red cabbage. This makes a pretty side or corner dish. 
 
 Mutton Rumps a-la-Braise. 
 
 Boil six mutton rumps for fifteen minutes in water, 
 then take them out, and cut them into’ two, and put 
 them into a stew-pan, with half a pint of good gravy, 
 a gill of white wine, an onion stuck w ith cloves, and 
 a little salt and chyan pepper. Cover them close, and 
 stew r them till they are tender. Take them and the 
 onion out, and thicken the gravy with a little butter 
 rolled in flour, a spoonful of browning, and the juice 
 of half a lemon. Boil it up till it is smooth, but not too 
 thick. Then put in your rumps, give them a shake 
 or two, and dish them up hot. Garnish with horse- 
 radish and beet-root. For variety, you may leave the 
 rumps whole, and lard six kidneys on one side, and do 
 them the same as the rumps, only not boil them, and 
 put the rumps in the middle of the dish, and kidneys 
 round them, with the sauce over all. 
 
 Mutton Chops in Disguise. 
 
 Rub the chops over with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and 
 a little parsley. Roll each in half a sheet of white 
 paper, “well buttered within-side, and close the two 
 ends. ’ Boil some hog’s lard, or beef dripping, in a 
 stew-pan, and put the steaks into it. Fry them of a 
 fine brown, then take them out, and let the fat tho- 
 roughly drain from them. Lay them in your dish, and 
 serve them up with good gravy in a sauce-boat. Gar- 
 nish with horse-radish and fried parsley. 
 
 Mo. 7. T 
 
MADE DISHES. 
 
 146 
 
 A Shoulder of Mutton called Hen and Chickens. 
 
 Half roast a shoulder, then take it up, and cut off 
 the blade at the first joint, and both the flaps, to make 
 the blade round ; score the blade round in diamonds, 
 throw a little pepper and salt over it, and set it in a 
 tin oven to broil. Cut the flaps and meat off the shank 
 in thin slices, and put the gravy that came out of the 
 mutton into a stew-pan, with a little good gravy, two 
 spoonsful of walnut catsup, one of browning, a little 
 chyan pepper, and one or two shalots. When your 
 meat is tender, thicken it with flour and butter, put it 
 into the dish with the gravy, and lay the blade on the 
 top. Garnish with green pickles. 
 
 A Quarter of Lamb forced. 
 
 Take a large leg of lamb, cut a long slit on the 
 back side, and take out the meat ; but be careful you 
 do not deface the other side. Then chop the meat 
 small with marrow, half a pound of beef suet, some 
 oysters, an anchovy washed, an onion, some sweet 
 herbs, a little lemon-peel, and some beaten mace and 
 nutmeg. Beat all these together in a mortar, stuff 
 up the leg in the shape it was before, sew it up, and 
 rub it all over with the yolks of eggs beaten ; spit it, 
 flour it all over, lay it to the fire, and baste it with 
 butter. An hour will roast it. In the meantime, cut 
 the loin into steaks, season them with pepper, salt, 
 and nutmeg, lemon-peel cut fine, and a few herbs. 
 Fry them in fresh butter of a fine brown, then pour 
 out all the butter, put in a quarter of a pint of white 
 wine, shake it about, and then add half a pint ol strong 
 gravy, wherein good spice has been boiled, a quarter 
 of a pint of oysters and the liquor, some mushrooms, 
 and a spoonful of the pickle, a piece of butter rolled 
 in flour, and the yolk of an egg beat fine ; stir all these 
 together till thick, then lay your leg of lamb in the 
 dish, and the loin round it. Pour the sauce over them, 
 and garnish with lemon. 
 
 Lamb's Bits. 
 
 Skin the stones, and split them ; then lay them on 
 
MEAT. 
 
 147 
 
 a dry cloth with the sweetbreads and the liver, and 
 dredge them well with flour. Fry them in lard or 
 butter till they are of a light brown, and then lay them 
 in a sieve to drain. Fry a good quantity of parsley, 
 lay your bits on the dish, the parsley in lumps over 
 them, and pour round them melted butter. 
 
 Lamb a-la-Bechamel. 
 
 La Bechamel is nothing more than to reduce any 
 thing to the consistence of cream, till it is thick enough 
 to make a sauce. When it begins to thicken, put in 
 the meat cut in slices, warm it without boiling, season 
 it to your taste, and serve it up. All slices a-la- 
 bechamel are done in the same manner. 
 
 Lamb Chops en Casarole. 
 
 Having cut a loin of lamb into chops, put yolks of 
 eggs on both sides, and strew bread crumbs over them, 
 with a few cloves and mace, pepper and salt mixed ; 
 fry them of a nice light brown, and put them round in 
 a dish, as close as you can ; leave a hole in the middle 
 to put the following sauce in : all sorts of sweet herbs 
 and parsley chopped fine, and stewed a little in some 
 good thick gravy. Garnish with fried parsley. 
 
 Barbacued, Pig. 
 
 Prepare a pig, about ten weeks old, as for roast- 
 ing. Make a forcemeat of two anchovies, six sage 
 leaves, and the liver of the pig, all chopped very small ; 
 then put them into a mortar with the crumb of half a 
 penny loaf, four ounces of butter, half a tea-spoonful 
 of chyan pepper, and half a pint of red wine. Beat 
 them all together to a paste, put it into the pig’s belly, 
 and sew it up. Lay your pig down at a good distance 
 before a large brisk fire, singe it well, put into your 
 dripping-pan three bottles of red wine, and baste it 
 well with this all the time it is roasting. When it is 
 half done, put under the pig two penny loaves, and if 
 vou find your wine too much reduced, add more. 
 When your pig is near enough, take the loaves and 
 sauce out of your dripping-pan, and put to the sauce 
 
148 
 
 MADE DISHES. 
 
 one anchovy chopped small, a bundle of sweet herbs, 
 and half a lemon. Boil it a few minutes, then draw 
 your pig, put a small lemon or apple in the pig s mouth, 
 and a leaf on each side. Strain your sauce, and pour 
 it on boiling hot. Send it up whole to table, and 
 garnish with barberries and sliced lemon. 
 
 A Pig au Pere Duillet. 
 
 Cut off the head, and divide the body into quarters, 
 lard them with bacon, and season them well with salt, 
 pepper, nutmeg, cloves, and mace. Put a layer of fit 
 bacon at the bottom of a kettle, lay the head in the 
 middle, and the quarters round it. Then put in a 
 bay-leaf, an onion shred, a lemon, w 7 ith some carrots, 
 parsley, and the liver, and cover it again with bacon. 
 Put in a quart of broth, stew it for an hour, and then 
 take it up. Put your pig into a stew-pan, pour in a 
 bottle of white wine, cover it close, and let it stew 
 very gently an hour. In the meantime, while it is 
 stewing in the wine, take the first gravy it was stew- 
 ed in, skim off the fat, and strain it. Then take a 
 sweetbread cut into five or six slices, some truffles, 
 morels, and mushrooms, and stew T all together till they 
 are enough. Thicken it with the yolks of two eggs, 
 or a piece of butter rolled in flour ; and when your 
 pig is enough, take it out, and lay it in your dish. 
 Put the wine it was stewed in to the sauce, then pour 
 it all over the pig, and garnish with lemon. If it is to 
 be served up cold, let it stand till it is so, then drain 
 it well, and wipe it, that it may look white, and lay 
 it in a dish, with the head in the middle, and the 
 quarters round it. Throw some green parsley over 
 all. Either of the quarters separately make a pretty 
 dish. 
 
 A Pig Matelote. 
 
 Having taken out the entrails, and scalded your 
 pig, cut off the head and pettitoes ; then cut the body 
 into four quarters, and put them, with the head and 
 toes, into cold water. Cover the bottom of a stew- 
 pan with slices of bacon, and place the quarters over 
 
149 
 
 MEAT, $C. 
 
 them, with the pettitoes, and the head cut in two. 
 Season the whole with pepper and salt, a bay-leaf, a 
 little thyme, an onion, and add a bottle of white wine. 
 Then lay on more slices of bacon, put over it a quart 
 of water, and let it boil. Skin and gut two large eels, 
 and cut them in pieces about five or six inches long. 
 When your pig is half done, put in your eels; then 
 boil a dozen of large craw-fish, cut off the claws, and 
 take off the shells of the tails. When your pig and 
 eels are enough, lay your pig in the dish, and your 
 pettitoes round it ; but do not put in the head, as that 
 will make a pretty cold dish. Then lay your eels and 
 craw-fish over them, and take the liquor they were 
 stewed in, skim off the fat, and add to it half a pint 
 of strong gravy, thickened with a little piece of burnt 
 batter. Pour this over it, and garnish with lemon and 
 craw-fish. Fry the brains, and lay them round, and 
 all over the dish. At grand entertainments this will 
 do for a first course or remove. 
 
 Sheep's Trotters en Gratten 
 
 Boil them in water, and then put them into a stew- 
 pan with a glass of white wine, half a pint of broth, as 
 much cullis, a bunch of sweet herbs, with salt, whole 
 pepper, and mace. Stew them by a slow fire tfu the 
 sauce is reduced, then take out the herbs, and stave 
 them upon a gratten. Sheep's trotters may be serv*4 
 with a ragoo of cucumbers. 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 MADE DISHES of POULTRY. Ac. 
 
 Tui'key a-la-daub. 
 
 Bone your turkey, but let it be so carefully done, 
 as not to spoil the look of it, and then stuff it with the 
 following forcemeat : chop some oysters very fine, 
 and mix them with some crumbs of bread, pepper, 
 salt, shalots, and very little thyme, parsley, and but- 
 
150 
 
 MADE DISHES. 
 
 ter. Having filled your turkey with this, sew it up, 
 tie it in a cloth, and boil it white, but be careful not 
 to boil it too much. Serve it up with good oyster 
 sauce. Or you may make a rich gravy of the bones, 
 with a piece of veal, mutton, and bacon ; season with 
 salt, pepper, shalots, and a little mace. Strain it off 
 through a sieve ; and having before half-boiled your 
 turkey, stew it in this gravy just half an hour. Hav- 
 ing well skimmed the gravy, dish up your turkey in it, 
 after you have thickened it with a few mushrooms 
 stewed white, or stewed palates, forcemeat balls, 
 sweetbreads, or fried oysters, and pieces of lemon. 
 Dish it with the breast upwards. You may add a 
 few morels and truffles to your sauce. 
 
 Turkey in a hurry. 
 
 Truss a turkey with the legs inward, and flatten 
 it as much as you can : then put it into a stew-pan, 
 with melted lard, chopped parsley, shalots, mush- 
 rooms, and a little garlic ; give it a few turns on the 
 fire, and add the juice of half a lemon to keep it white. 
 Then put it into another stew-pan, with slices of veal, 
 one slice of ham, and melted lard, and every thing as 
 used before ; adding whole pepper and salt ; cover it 
 over with slices of lard, and set it about half an hour 
 over a slow fire . then add a glass of white wine and 
 a little broth, and finish the brazing ; skim and sift the 
 sauce, add a little cullis to make it rich, reduce it to a 
 good consistence, put the turkey into your dish, and 
 pour the sauce over it. Garnish with lemon. 
 
 Fowls a-la-Braise. 
 
 Truss your fowl as for boiling, with the legs in the 
 body ; then lay over it a layer of fat bacon cut in thin 
 slices, wrap it round in beet-leaves, then in a caul of 
 veal, and put it into a large saucepan with three pints 
 of water, a glass of Madeira wine, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, two or three blades of mace, and half a lemon ; 
 stew it till it is quite tender, then take it up and skim 
 off - the fat ; make your gravy pretty thick with flour and 
 
POULTRY. 
 
 151 
 
 butter, strain it through a hair sieve, and put to it a 
 pint of oysters and a tea-cupful of thick cream ; keep 
 shaking your pan over the fire, and when it has sim- 
 mered a short time, serve up your fowl with the bacon, 
 beet-leaves, and caul on, and pour your sauce hot 
 upon it. Garnish with barberries and red beet-root. 
 
 Fowls forced. 
 
 Take a large fowl, pick it clean, draw it, cut it 
 down the back, and take the skin off the whole ; 
 cut the flesh from the bones, and chop it with half a 
 pint of oysters, one ounce of beef marrow, and a lit- 
 tle pepper and salt. Mix it up with cream ; then lay 
 the meat on the bones, draw the skin over it, and sew 
 up the back. Cut large thin slices of bacon, lay them 
 on the breast of your fowl, and tie them on with pack- 
 thread in diamonds. It will take an hour roasting by 
 amoderate fire. Make a good brown gravy sauce, pour 
 it into your dish, take the bacon off, lay in your fowl, and 
 serve it up. Garnish with pickles, mushrooms, or oys- 
 ters. It is proper for a side-dish at dinner, or top-dish 
 for supper. 
 
 Fowls marinaded. 
 
 Raise the skin from the breast-bone of a large 
 fowl with your finger ; then take a veal sweetbread 
 and cut it small, a few oysters, a few mushrooms, an 
 anchovy, some pepper, a little nutmeg, some lemon- 
 peel, and a little thyme ; chop all together small, and 
 mix it with the yolk of an egg, stuff it in between the 
 skin and the flesh, but take great care you do not break 
 the skin ; and then put what oysters you please in the 
 body of the fowl. Paper the breast, and roast it. Make 
 good gravy, and garnish with lemon. You may add 
 a few mushrooms to the sauce. 
 
 Chickens chir ingrate. 
 
 Flatten the breast-bones of your chickens with 
 a rolling-pin, but be careful you do not break the skin. 
 Strew some flour over them, then fry them in butter 
 
MADE DISHES. 
 
 152 
 
 of a fine light brown, and drain all the fat out of the 
 pan, but leave the chickens in. Lay a pound of gravy 
 beef, with the same quantity of veal cut into thin 
 slices, over your chickens, together with a little mace, 
 two or three cloves, some whole pepper, an onion, a 
 small bunch of sweet herbs, and a piece of carrot. 
 Then pour in a quart of boiling water, cover it close, 
 and let it stew a quarter of an hour. Then take out 
 the chickens, and keep them hot : let the gravy boil 
 till it is quite rich and good ; then strain it off, and put 
 it into your pan again, with two spoonsful of red wine 
 and a few mushrooms. Put in your chickens to heat, 
 then take them up, lay them in your dish, and pour 
 your sauce over them. Garnish with lemon, and a 
 few slices of cold ham broiled. 
 
 Chickens a-la-braise. 
 
 Take a couple of fine chickens, lard them, and 
 season them with pepper, salt, and mace ; then put a 
 layer of veal in the bottom of a deep stew-pan, with 
 a slice or two of bacon, an onion cut in pieces, a piece 
 of carrot, and a layer of beef ; then put in the chick- 
 ens with the breast downwards, and a bundle of sweet 
 herbs ; after that a layer of beef, and put in a quart 
 of broth or water, cover it close, and let it stew very 
 gently for an hour. In the meantime get ready a ra- 
 goo made thus : take two veal sweetbreads, cut them 
 small, and put them into a saucepan, with a very little 
 broth or water, a few cock's-combs, truffles, and morels 
 cut small, with an ox-palate. Stew them all together, 
 and when your chickens are done, take them up, and 
 keep them hot ; then strain the liquor they were stew- 
 ed in, skim off the fat, and pour it into your ragoo ; 
 add a glass of red wine, a spoonful of catsup, and a few 
 mushrooms ; then boil all together w ith a few artichoke 
 bottoms cut in four, and asparagus tops. If your 
 sauce is not thick enough, put in a piece of butter rol- 
 led in flour : and when properly done, lay your chick- 
 ens in the dish, and pour the ragoo over them. Gar 
 nish with lemon. 
 
POULTRY. 
 
 153 
 
 Chickens in savoury Jelly. 
 
 Take two chickens, and roast them. Boil some 
 calf’s feet to a strong jelly ; then take out the feet, and 
 skim off the fat ; beat up the whites of three eggs, and 
 mix them with half a pint of white vinegar, and the 
 juice of three lemons, a blade or two of mace, a few 
 peppercorns, and a little salt. Put them to your jelly , 
 and when it has boiled five or six minutes, strain it se- 
 veral times through a jelly-bag till it is very clear. Then 
 put a little in the bottom of a bowl large enough to 
 hold your chickens, and when they are cold and the 
 jelly set, lay them in with their breasts down. Then 
 fill your bowl quite full with the rest of your jelly, 
 which you must take care to keep from setting, so that 
 when you pour it into your bowl it will not break. 
 Let it stand all night ; and the next day put your ba- 
 sin into warm water, pretty near the top. As soon 
 as you find it loose in the basin, lay your dish over it, 
 and turn it whole. 
 
 Chickens and Tongues. 
 
 Boil six small chickens very white ; then take six 
 hogs’ tongues boiled and peeled, a cauliflower boiled 
 whole in milk and water, and a good deal of spinach 
 boiled green. Then lay your cauliflower in the mid- 
 dle, the chickens close all round, and the tongues 
 round them with the roots outwards, and the spinach 
 in little heaps between the tongues. Garnish with 
 small pieces of bacon toasted, and lay a piece on each 
 of the tongues. This is a good dish for a large com- 
 pany. 
 
 Pullets a-la-Sainte Menehout. 
 
 Having trussed the legs in the body, slit them 
 down the back, spread them open on a table, take out 
 the thigh bones, and beat them with a rolling pin. — 
 Season them with pepper, salt, mace, nutmeg, and 
 sweet herbs. Then take a pound and a half of veal, 
 <cut it into thin slices, and lay it in a stew-pan. Cover 
 it close, and set it over a slow fire, and when it begins 
 
 Fo. 7. 0 
 
154 
 
 MADE DISHES. 
 
 to stick to the pan, stir in a little flour, shake it about 
 till it is a little brown, and then pour in as much broth 
 as will stew the fowls. Stir them together, and put 
 in a little whole pepper, an onion, and a slice of bacon 
 or- ham. Then lay in your fowls, cover them close, 
 and when they have stewed half an hour, take them 
 out, lay them on the gridiron to brown on the inside, 
 and then lay them before the fire to do on the outside. 
 Stre w over them the yolk of an egg, and some crumbs 
 of bread, and baste them with a little butter. Let 
 them be of a fine brown, and boil the gravy till there 
 is about enough for sauce ; then strain it, and put into 
 it a few mushrooms, with a small piece of butter rol- 
 led in flour. Lay the pullets in the dish, pour the 
 sauce over them, and garnish with lemon. 
 
 Ducks a-la-Braise. 
 
 Ha ving dressed and singed your ducks, lard them 
 quite through with bacon rolled in shred parsley, thyme, 
 onions, beaten mace, cloves, pepper, and salt. Put in 
 the bottom of a stew-pan a few slices of fat bacon, the 
 same of ham or gammon of bacon, two or three slices 
 of veal or beef : lay your ducks in with the breasts 
 down, and cover them with slices, the same as put 
 under them ; cut a carrot or two, a turnip, one onion, 
 a head of celery, a blade of mace, four or five cloves, 
 and a little whole pepper. Cover them close down, 
 and let them simmer a little over a gentle fire till the 
 breasts are a light brown : then put in some broth or 
 water, cover them as close down again as yon can : stew 
 them gently two or three hours till enough. Then 
 take some parsley, an onion or shalot, two anchovies, 
 and a few girkins or capers ; chop them all very fine, 
 put them into a stew-pan with part of the liquor from 
 the ducks, a little browning, and the juice of half a le- 
 mon ; boil it up, and cut the ends of the bacon even 
 with the breasts of your ducks, lay them in your dish, 
 pour the sauce hot upon them, and serve them up. 
 
 Ducks a-la-mode. 
 
 Take a couple of fine ducks, cut them into quarters. 
 
POULTRY. 155 
 
 and fry them in butter till they are of a light brown. 
 Then pour out all the fat, dust a little flour over them, 
 and put in half a pint of good gravy, a quarter of a 
 pint of red wine, an anchovy, two shalots, and a bun- 
 dle of sweet herbs : cover them close, and let them 
 stew a quarter of an hour. Take out the herbs, skim 
 off the fat, and thicken your sauce with a bit of butter 
 rolled in flour. Put your ducks into the dish, strain 
 your sauce over them, and send them to table. Garnish 
 with lemon or barberries. 
 
 Ducks a-la-Frangoise. 
 
 Put two dozen of roasted chesnuts peeled into a 
 pint of rich gravy, with a few leaves of thyme, two 
 small onions, a little whole pepper, and a bit of ginger. 
 Take a fine tame duck, lard it, and half roast it, then 
 put it into the gravy, let it stew ten minutes, and add 
 a quarter of a pint of red wine. When the duck is 
 enough take it out, boil up the gravy to a proper 
 thickness, skim it very clean from the fat, lay the duck 
 in the dish, and pour the sauce over. Garnish with 
 lemon. 
 
 A Goose a-la-mode. 
 
 Pi ck a large fine goose clean, skin and bone* it 
 nicely, and take off the fat. Then take a dried tongue, 
 and boil and peel it. Take a fowl, and treat it in 
 the same manner as the goose ; season it with pep- 
 per, salt, and beaten mace, and roll it round the 
 tongue. Season the goose in the same manner, and put 
 both tongue and fowl into the goose. Put it into a 
 little pot that will just hold it, with two quarts of beef 
 gravy, a bundle of sweet herbs, and an onion. Put 
 some slices of ham, or good bacon, between the fowl 
 and goose ; then cover it close, and stew it over a fire 
 for an hour very slowly. Then take up your goose, 
 
 * It may not be amiss to inform the cook, that the best method of 
 boning a goose, or fowls of any sort, is to begin at the breast, and to 
 take out the bones without cutting the back ; for without this method, 
 when it is sewed up, and you come to stew it, it generally bursts in 
 the back, whereby the shape of it is spoiled. 
 
MADE DISHES. 
 
 156 
 
 and skim off all the fat, strain it, and put in a glass of 
 red wine, two spoonsful of catsup, a veal sweetbread 
 cut small, some truffles, mushrooms, and morels, a 
 piece of butter rolled in flour, and, if wanted, some pep 
 per and salt. Put the goose in again, cover it close, 
 and let it stew half an hour longer. Then take it up, 
 pour the ragoo over it, and garnish with lemon. You 
 must remember to save the bones of the goose and 
 fowl, and put them into the gravy when it is first set 
 on. It will be an improvement if you roll some beef 
 marrow between the tongue and the fowl, and between 
 the fowl and the goose, as it will make them mellow, 
 and eat the finer. 
 
 A Goose marinaded. 
 
 Bone your goose, and stuff it with forcemeat made 
 thus : take ten or twelve sage leaves, two large onions, 
 and two or three large sharp apples ; chop them very 
 fine, and mix them with the crumb of a penny loaf, 
 four ounces of beef marrow, one glass of red wine, 
 half a nutmeg grated, pepper, salt, and a little lemon- 
 peel shred small, and the yolks of four eggs. When 
 you have stuffed your goose with this, sew it up, fry 
 it of a light brown, and then put it into a deep stew- 
 pan, with two quarts of good gravy. Cover it close, 
 and let it stew two hours ; then take it out, put it in- 
 to a dish, and keep it warm. Skim the fat clean off 
 from the gravy, and put into it a large spoonful of 
 lemon-pickle, one of browning, and one of red wine, 
 an anchovy shred fine, a little beaten mace, with pep- 
 per and salt to your palate. Thicken it with flour and 
 butter, dish up your goose, strain the gravy over it, 
 and send it to table. 
 
 Pigeons Compote. 
 
 Truss six young pigeons in the same manner as 
 for boiling, and make a forcemeat for them thus : — 
 Grate the crumb of a penny loaf, and scrape a quar- 
 ter of a pound of fat bacon, which will answer the 
 purpose better than suet. Chop a little parsley and 
 
POULTRY. 
 
 157 
 
 thyme, two shalots, or an onion, some lemon-peel, and 
 a little nutmeg grated ; season them with pepper and 
 salt, and mix them up with eggs. Put this forcemeat 
 into the craws of the pigeons, lard them dow n the 
 breast, and fry them brown. Then put them into a 
 stew-pan, with some good browrn gravy, and when 
 they have stewed three quarters of an hour, thicken 
 it with a piece of butter rolled in flour. When you 
 serve them up, strain your gravy over them, and lay 
 forcemeat balls round them. 
 
 French P upton of Pigeons. 
 
 Put savory forcemeat, rolled out like paste, into a 
 butter-dish. Then put a layer of very thin slices of 
 bacon, squab pigeons, sliced sweetbread, asparagus 
 tops, mushrooms, cock s-combs, a palate boiled tender, 
 and cut into pieces, and the yolks of four eggs boiled 
 hard. Make another forcemeat, and lay it over the 
 whole like a pie-crust. Then bake it, and when it is 
 enough, turn it into a dish, and pour in some good rich 
 gravy. 
 
 Pigeons a-la-Braise. 
 
 Pick, draw, and truss some large pigeons, then 
 take a stew-pan, and lay at the bottom some slices of 
 bacon, veal, and onions; season the pigeons with pep- 
 per, salt, some spice beat' fine, and sweet herbs. Put 
 them into the stew-pan, and lay upon them some more 
 slices of veal and bacon ; let them stew very gently 
 over a stove, and cover them down very close. When 
 they are stewed, make a ragoo with veal sweetbreads, 
 truffles, morels, champignons; the sweetbreads must 
 be blanched and put into a stew-pan with a ladle full 
 of gravy, a little cullis, the truffles, morels, &c. Let 
 them all stew together with the pigeons. When they 
 are enough, put them into a dish, and pour the ragoo 
 over them. 
 
 Pigeons au Poise. 
 
 Cut off the feet of your pigeons, and stuff them 
 with forcemeat in the shape of a pear ; roll them in the 
 yolk of an egg, and then in crumbs of bread. Put 
 
153 
 
 MADE DISHES. 
 
 them into a dish well buttered, but do not let them 
 touch each other, and send them to the oven. When 
 they are enough, lay them in a dish, and pour in good 
 gravy thickened with the yolk of an egg, or butter rol- 
 led in flour; but do not pom* your gravy over the 
 pigeons. Garnish with lemon. — This is a very gen- 
 teel dish, and may be improved by the following vari- 
 ation ; lay one pigeon in the middle, the rest round, 
 and stewed spinach between, with poached eggs on the 
 spinach. Garnish with notched lemon and orange cut 
 in quarters, and have melted butter in boats. 
 
 Fricandeau of Pigeons. 
 
 After having larded all the upper part of your 
 pigeons with bacon, stew them in the same manner 
 as the fricandeau a-la-Bourgeoise, page 131. 
 
 Pigeons a-lci-daub. 
 
 Put a layer of bacon into a large saucepan, then a 
 layer of veal, a layer of coarse beef, and another little 
 layer of veal, about a pound of beef, and a pound of 
 veal, cut very thin, a piece of carrot, a bundle of sweet 
 herbs, an onion, some black and white pepper, a blade 
 or two of mace, and four or five cloves. Cover the 
 saucepan close, set it over a slow’ fire, and draw it till 
 it is brown, to make the gravy of a fine light brown. 
 Then put a quart of boiling water, and let it stew 7 till 
 the gravy is quite rich and good. Strain it off, and 
 skim off all the fat. In the meantime, stuff the bellies 
 of the pigeons with forcemeat made thus : take a pound 
 of veal, and a pound of beef suet, and beat both fine 
 in a mortar ; an equal quantity of crumbs of bread, 
 some pepper, salt, nutmeg, beaten mace, a little lemon- 
 peel cut small, some parsley cut small, and a very lit- 
 tle thyme stripped. Mix all together with the yolks 
 of two eggs, fill the pigeons w ith this, and flat the 
 breasts down. Flour them, and fry them in fresh but 
 ter a little brown. Then pour the fat clean out of the 
 pan, and put the gravy to the pigeons. Cover them 
 close, and let them stew a quarter of an hour, or till 
 
POULTRY. 
 
 159 
 
 they are quite enough. Then take them up, lay them 
 in a dish, and pour in your sauce. On each pigeon 
 lay a hay-leaf, and on each leaf a slice of bacon. Gar- 
 nish with a lemon notched. 
 
 Pigeons a-la-Soussel . 
 
 Bone four pigeons, and make a forcemeat as for 
 pigeons compote. Stuff them, and put them into a 
 stew-pan with a pint of veal gravy. Stew them half 
 an hour very gently, and then take them out. In the 
 meantime make a veal forcemeat, and wrap it all 
 round them. Rub it over with the yolk of an egg, and 
 fry them of a nice brown in good dripping. Take the 
 gravy they were stewed in, skim off the fat, thicken 
 with a little butter rolled in flour, the yolk of an egg, 
 and a gill of cream beat up. Season it with pepper 
 and salt, mix it altogether, and keep it stirring one 
 way till it is smooth. Strain it into your dish, and 
 put the pigeons on. Garnish with plenty of fried parsley. 
 
 Pigeons in a Hole. 
 
 Pi ck, draw, and wash four young pigeons, stick 
 their legs in their bellies as you do boiled pigeons, and 
 season them with pepper, salt, and beaten mace. Put 
 into the belly of each pigeon a lump of butter the size 
 of a walnut. Lay your pigeons in a pie-dish, pour 
 over them a batter made of three eggs, two spoons- 
 ful of flour, and half a pint of good milk. Bake them 
 in a moderate oven, and serve them to table in the 
 same dish. 
 
 Jugged Pigeons. 
 
 Pluck and draw six pigeons, wash them clean, 
 and dry them with a cloth ; season them with beaten 
 mace, white pepper, and salt. Put them into a jug 
 with half a pound of butter upon them. Stop up the 
 jug close with a cloth, that no steam can get out, then 
 set in a kettle of boiling water, and let it boil an hour 
 and a half. Then take out your pigeons, put the gra- 
 vy that is come from them into a pan, and add to it a 
 spoonful of wine, one of catsup, a slice of lemon, half 
 
1()0 MADE DISHES. 
 
 an anchovy chopped, and a bundle of sweet herbs. 
 Boil it a little, and then thicken it with a piece of 
 butter rolled in dour ; lay your pigeons in the dish, and 
 strain your gravy over them. Garnish with parsley 
 and red cabbage. — This makes a very pretty side or 
 corner dish. 
 
 Partridges a-la-Braise. 
 
 Take two brace of partridges, and truss the legs in- 
 to the bodies ; lard them, and season with beaten mace, 
 pepper, and salt. Take a stew-pan, lay slices of ba- 
 con at the bottom, then slices of beef, and then slices 
 of veal, all cut thin, a piece of carrot, an onion cut 
 small, a bundle of sweet herbs, and some w hole pepper. 
 Put in the partridges with the breasts downwards, lay 
 some thin slices of beef and veal over them, and some 
 parsley shred fine. Cover them, and let them stew 
 eight or ten minutes over a slow fire ; then give your 
 pan a shake, and pour in a pint of boiling water. Co- 
 ver it close, and let it stew half an hom- over a little 
 quicker fire ; then take out your birds, keep them hot, 
 pour into the pan a pint of thin gravy, let them boil 
 till there is about half a pint, then strain it off, and 
 skim off all the fat. In the meantime have a veal 
 sweetbread cut small, truffles and morels, cock's-combs, 
 and fowls’ fivers stew T ed in a pint of good gravy half 
 an hour, some artichoke-bottoms and asparagus tops, 
 both blanched in warm water, and a few' mushrooms. 
 Then add the other gravy to this, and put in your 
 partridges to heat. If it is not thick enough, put in a 
 piece of butter rolled in flour. When thoroughly hot, 
 put in your partridges into the dish, pour tiie sauce 
 over them, and serve them to table. 
 
 Pheasants a-la-Braise. 
 
 Cover the bottom of your stew-pan w ith a layer of 
 beef, a layer of veal, a little piece of bacon, a piece of 
 carrot, an onion stuck with cloves, a blade or two of 
 mace, a spoonful of pepper, black and white, and a 
 bundle of sweet herbs. Having done this, put in your 
 pheasant, and cover it w ith a layer of beef and a layer 
 
GAME. 
 
 161 
 
 of veal Set it on the fire for five or six minutes, and 
 then pour in two quarts of boiling gravy. Cover it 
 close, and let it stew very gently an hour and a half. 
 Then take up your pheasant, and keep it hot ; let the 
 gravy boil till it is reduced to about a pint, then strain 
 it off, and put it in again. Put in a veal sweetbread 
 that has been stewed with the pheasant, some truffles 
 and morels, livers of fowls, artichoke-bottoms, and (if 
 you have them) asparagus tops. Let these simmer in 
 the gravy about five or six minutes, and then add two 
 spoonsful of catsup, two of red wine, a spoonful of 
 browning, and a little piece of butter rolled in flour. 
 Shake all together, then put in your pheasant, with a 
 few mushrooms, and let them stew about five or six 
 minutes more. Then take up your pheasant, pour the 
 ragoo over it, and lay forcemeat-balls round. Garnish 
 with lemon. 
 
 Snipes, or Woodcocks, in surtout. 
 
 Take some forcemeat made of veal, as much beef- 
 suet chopped and beat in a mortar, with an equal 
 quantity of crumbs of bread ; mix in a little beaten 
 mace, pepper and salt, some parsley, a few sweet 
 herbs, and the yolk of an egg. Lay some of this meat 
 round the dish, and then put in the snipes, being first 
 drawn and half roasted. Take care of the trail, chop 
 it, and scatter it all over the dish. Take some good 
 gravy, according to the bigness of \ our surtout, some 
 truffles and morels, a few mushrooms, a sweetbread 
 cut into pieces, and artichoke- bottoms cut small. Let 
 all stew together, shake them, and take the yolks of 
 two or three eggs, beat them up with a spoonful or 
 two of white wine, and stir all together one way. 
 When it is thick, take it off, let it cool, and pour it 
 into the surtout. Put in the yolks of a few hard eggs 
 here and there, season with beaten mace, pepper, and 
 salt, to your taste ; cover with the forcemeat all over, 
 then rub on the yolks of eggs to colour it, and send it 
 to the oven. Half an hour will do it sufficiently. 
 
 Snipes, with Purslain Leaves. 
 
 Draw vour snipes, and make a forcemeat for the 
 
 No. 7. X 
 
1G2 
 
 MADE DISHES. 
 
 inside, but preserve your ropes for your sauce ; spit 
 them across upon a lark- spit, covered with bacon and 
 paper, and roast them gently. For sauce you must 
 take some prime thick leaves of purslain, blanch them 
 well in water, put them into a ladle of cullis and gra- 
 vy, a bit of shalot, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and parsley, 
 and stew all together for half an hour gently. Have 
 the ropes ready blanched and put in. Dish up your 
 snipes upon thin slices of bread fried., squeeze the juice 
 of an orange into your sauce, and serve them up. 
 
 Larks a-la-Frangoise. 
 
 Truss your larks with the legs across, and put a 
 sage-leaf over the breasts. Put them on a long thin 
 skewer, and between every lark put a thin bit of ba- 
 con. Then tie the skewer to a spit, and roast them 
 before a clear brisk fire ; baste them with butter, and 
 strew over them some crumbs of bread mixed with 
 flour. Fry some crumbs of bread of a fine brown in 
 butter. Lay the larks round the dish, and the bread- 
 crumbs in the middle. 
 
 Florendine Hares. 
 
 Let your hare be a full-grown one, and let it hang 
 up four or five days before you case it. Leave on the 
 ears, but take out all the bones except those of the 
 head, which must be left entire. Lay your hare on 
 the table, and put into it the following forcemeat : take 
 the crumb of a two-penny loaf, the liver shred fine, 
 half a pound of fat bacon scraped, a glass of red wine, 
 an anchovy, two eggs, a little winter savory, some 
 sweet-marjorum, thyme, and a little pepper, salt, and 
 nutmeg. Having put this, into the belly, roll it up to 
 the head, and fasten it with packthread, as you w ould 
 a collar of veal. Wrap it in a cloth, and boil it an 
 hour and a half in a saucepan, covered with tw o quarts 
 of water. As soon as the liquor is reduced to about 
 a quart, put in a pint of red wine, a spoonful of lemon- 
 pickle, one of catsup, and the same of browming. Then 
 stew it till it is reduced to a pint, and thicken it with 
 
GAME. 
 
 163 
 
 butter rolled in flour. Lay round your hare a few 
 morels, and four slices of forcemeat boiled in a caul of 
 a leg of veal. When you dish it up, draw the jaw- 
 bones, and stick them in the sockets of the eyes. Let 
 the ears lie back on the roll, and stick a sprig of myrtle 
 in the mouth. Strain your sauce over it, and garnish 
 with barberries and parsley. 
 
 Florendine Rabbits. 
 
 Skin three young rabbits, but leave on the ears, 
 and wash and dry them with a cloth. Take out the 
 bones as carefully as you can, but leave the head 
 whole, and proceed in the same manner as before di- 
 rected for the hare. Have ready a white sauce made 
 of veal gravy, a little anchovy, and the juice of half u 
 lemon, or a tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle. Strain it, 
 and then put in a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in 
 flour, so as to make the sauce pretty thick. Beat up 
 the yolk of an egg, put to it some thick cream, nutmeg, 
 and salt, and mix it with the gravy. Let it simmer a 
 little over the fire, but not boil, then pour it over your 
 rabbits, and serve them up. Garnish with lemon and 
 barberries. 
 
 Jugged Hare. 
 
 Cut your hare into small pieces, and lard them 
 here and there with little slips of bacon, season them 
 with pepper and salt, and put them in an earthen jug, 
 with a blade or two of mace, an onion stuck with cloves, 
 and a bunch of sweet herbs. Cover the jug close, 
 that nothing may get in ; set it in a pot of boiling wa- 
 ter, and three hours will do it. Then turn it into the 
 dish, take out the onion and sweet herbs, and send it 
 hot to table. 
 
 Rabbits siuyrised. 
 
 Take two young rabbits, skewer them, and put 
 the same kind of pudding in them as for roasted rab- 
 bits. When they are roasted, take off the meat clean 
 from the bones; but leave the bones whole. Chop 
 the meat very fine, with a little sirred parsley, some 
 lemon-peel, an ounce of beef marrow, a spoonful of 
 
MADE DISHES. 
 
 164 
 
 cream, and a little salt. Beat up the yolks of two eggs 
 boiled hard, and a small piece of butter, in a marble 
 mortar : then mix all together, and put it into a stew- 
 pan. Having stewed it five minutes, lay it on the rab- 
 bits, where you took the meat off, and put it close 
 down with your hand, to make them appear like 
 whole rabbits. Then with a salamander brown them 
 all over. Pour a good brown gravy, made as thick as 
 cream, into the dish, and stick a bunch of myrtle in 
 their mouths. Send them up to table, with their livers 
 boiled and frothed. 
 
 Rabbits en Casserole. 
 
 Cut your rabbits into quarters, and then lard them 
 or not, just as you please. Shake some flour over them, 
 and fry them in lard or butter. Then put them into 
 an earthen pipkin, with a quart of good broth, a glass 
 of white wine, a little pepper and salt, a bunch of 
 sweet herbs, and a small piece of butter rolled in flour. 
 Cover them close, and let them stew half an hour: 
 then dish them up, and pour the sauce over them. 
 Garnish with Seville oranges cut into thin slices and 
 notched. 
 
 Macaroni. 
 
 Broil four ounces of macaroni till it is quite tender, 
 then lay it on a sieve to drain, and put it into a stew-- 
 pan, with about a gill of cream, and a piece of butter 
 rolled in flour. Boil it five minutes, pour it on a plate. 
 Lay Parmasan cheese roasted all over it, and send it 
 up in a w T ater-plate. 
 
 Amulets. 
 
 Take six eggs, beat them up as fine as you can, 
 strain them through a hair sieve, and put them into a 
 frying-pan, in w r hich must be a quarter of a pound of 
 hot butter. Throw in a little ham scraped fine, with 
 shred parsley, and season them w 7 ith pepper, salt, and 
 nutmeg. Fry it brown on the under side, and lay it 
 on your dish, but do not turn it. Hold a hot salaman 
 der over it for half a minute, to take off the raw 
 
VEGETABLES, <$*C. 166 
 
 look of the eggs. Stick curled parsley in it, and serve 
 it up. 
 
 Amulets of Asparagus. 
 
 Beat up six eggs with cream, boil some of the 
 largest and finest asparagus, and, when boiled, cut off 
 all the green in small pieces. Mix them with the 
 eggs, and put in some pepper and salt. Make a slice 
 of butter hot in the pan, put them in, and serve them 
 up on buttered toast. 
 
 Oyster Loaves. 
 
 Make a hole in the top of some little round loaves, 
 and take out all the crumb. Put some oysters into a 
 stew-pan, with the oyster liquor, and the crumbs that 
 were taken out of the loaves, and a large piece of but- 
 ter ; stew them together five or six minutes, then put in 
 a spoonful of good cream, then fill your loaves. Lay a 
 bit of crust carefully on the top of each, and put them 
 in the oven to crisp. 
 
 Mushroom Loaves. 
 
 Take some small buttons, and wash them as for 
 pickling. Boil them a few minutes in a little water, 
 and put to them two large spoonsful of cream, with a 
 bit of butter rolled in flour, and a little salt and pepper. 
 Boil these up, then fill your loaves, and do them in the 
 same manner as directed in the preceding article. 
 
 Eggs in Surtout. 
 
 Boil half a pound of bacon cut into thin slices, and 
 fry some bits of bread in butter : put three spoonsful of 
 cullis into your dish, garnish the rim with fried bread, 
 break some eggs in the middle, cover them with the 
 rashers of bacon, and do them over a slow fire. 
 
 Eggs and Broccoli. 
 
 Boil your broccoli tender, observing to save a large 
 bunch for the middle, and six or eight little thick sprigs 
 to stick round. Toast a bit of bread as large as you 
 would have it for your dish or butter plate. Butter 
 some eggs, thus : take six eggs or as many as you 
 
166 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 have occasion for, beat them well, put them into a 
 saucepan, with a good piece of batter and a little salt; 
 keep beating them with a spoon till they are thick 
 enough, and then pour them on the toast. Set the 
 largest bunch ofbroccoli in the middle, and the other 
 little pieces round and about. Garnish the dish with 
 little sprigs of broccoli. This is a pretty side dish or 
 corner plate. 
 
 Spinach and Eggs. 
 
 Pick and wash your spinach very clean in severa 1 
 waters, then put it into a saucepan with a little salt ; 
 cover it close, and shake the pan often. When it is 
 just tender, and whilst it is green, throw it into a sieve 
 to drain, and then lay it in your dish. Have ready a 
 stew-pan of water boiling, and break as many eggs in- 
 to cups as you would poach. When the water boils 
 put in the eggs, have an egg slice ready to take them 
 out with, lay them on the spinach, and serve them up 
 with melted butter in a cup. Garnish with orange 
 cut into quarters. 
 
 To make Ramekins . 
 
 Put a bit of Parmasan cheese into a stew-pan, 
 bruising it with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a 
 gill of water, very little salt, and an anchovy cut small ; 
 boil the whole well together, and put in as much flour 
 as the sauce will suck up; keep it over the fire till it 
 forms a thick paste, then put it into a stew-pan with 
 the yolks of a dozen eggs, and beat up the whites 
 quite stiff till they will bear an egg, then mix the 
 whites with the rest. Drop them into square paper 
 cases. If well made, the ramekins will be of a light 
 and of a fine colour. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 VEGETABLES and ROOTS. 
 
 IN dressing these articles, the greatest attention must 
 be paid to cleanliness. They are, particularly at some 
 
VEGETABLES. 
 
 167 
 
 times of the year, subject to dust, dirt, and insects, so 
 that if they are not properly cleansed, they will be 
 unsatisfactory to those for whom they are provided, 
 and disreputable to the cook. To avoid this, be care- 
 ful first to pick off all the outside leaves, then wash them 
 well in several w T aters, and let them lie some time in a 
 pan of clean water before you dress them. Be sure 
 your saucepan is thoroughly clean, and boil them by 
 themselves in plenty of water. They should always 
 be brought crisp to table, which will be effected by be- 
 ing careful not to boil them too much. Such are the 
 general observations necessary to be attended to in 
 dressing of Vegetables and Roots. We shall now 
 proceed to particulars, beginning with 
 
 Asparagus. 
 
 Scrape all the stalks very carefully till they look 
 white, then cut them all even alike, and throw them 
 into a pan of clean water, and have ready a stew-pan 
 with water boiling. Put some salt in, and when they 
 are a little tender take them up. If you boil them too 
 much, they will lose both their colour and taste. Cut 
 the round off a small loaf, about half an inch thick, and 
 toast it brown on both sides : then dip it into the 
 liquor the asparagus was boiled in, and lay it in your 
 dish. Pour a little melted butter over your toast, then 
 lay your asparagus on the toast all round your dish, 
 with the heads inwards, and send it to table, with 
 melted butter in a basin. Some pour melted butter 
 over them, but this is injudicious, as it makes the hand- 
 ling them very disagreeable. 
 
 Artichokes. 
 
 Twist off the stalks, then put them into cold 
 water, and wash them well. When the water boils, 
 put them in with the tops downwards, that all the dust 
 and sand may boil out. About an hour and a half, 
 or two hours, will do them. Serve them up with 
 melted butter in cups. 
 
 Broccoli. 
 
 Carefully strip off all the little branches till you 
 
168 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 come to the top one, and then with a knife peel off 
 the hard outside skin that is on the stalks and little 
 branches, and throw them into water. Have ready a 
 stew-pan of water, throw in a little salt, and when it 
 boils, put in your broccoli. When the stalks are 
 tender, it is enough. Put in a piece of toasted bread, 
 soaked in the water the broccoli was boiled in at the 
 bottom of your dish, and put your broccoli on the top 
 of it, as you do asparagus. Send them up to table 
 laid in bunches, with butter in a boat. 
 
 Cauliflowers. 
 
 Take off the green part, then cut the flower into 
 four parts, and lay them in water for an hour. Then 
 have some milk and water boiling, put in the cauli- 
 flowers, and be sure to skim the saucepan well. When 
 the stalks feel tender, take up the flowers carefully, 
 and put them in a cullender to drain. Then put a 
 spoonful of water into a clean stew-pan, with a little 
 dust of flour, about a quarter of a pound of butter, a 
 little pepper and salt, and shake it round till the but- 
 ter is melted, and the whole well mixed together. 
 Then take half the cauliflower, and cut it as yon would 
 for pickling. Lay it into the stew-pan, turn it, and 
 shake the pan round for about ten minutes, which will 
 be sufficient time to do it properly. Lay the stewed 
 in the middle of your plate, the boiled round it, and 
 pour over it the butter in which the one-half was 
 stewed. This is a delicate mode of dressing cauli- 
 flowers; but the usual way is as follows: cut the 
 stalks off - , leave a little green on, and boil them in 
 spring water and salt for about fifteen minutes. Then 
 take them out, drain them, and send them whole to 
 table, with melted butter in a sauce-boat. 
 
 Green Peas. 
 
 Let your peas be shelled as short a time as you can 
 before they are dressed, as otherwise they will lose a 
 great part of their sweetness. Put them into boiling 
 water, with a little salt and a lump of loaf sugar, and 
 
VEGETABLES. 
 
 169 
 
 when they begin to dent in the middle, they are enough. 
 Put them into a sieve, drain the water clear from them, 
 and pour them into your dish. Put in them a good 
 lump of butter, and stir them about with a spoon till 
 it is thoroughly melted. Mix with them likewise a 
 little pepper and salt. Boil a small bunch of mint by 
 itself, chop it fine, and lay it in lumps round the edge 
 of your dish. Melted butter is sometimes preferred 
 to mixing it with the peas. 
 
 Windsor Beans. 
 
 These must be boiled in plenty of water, with a 
 good quantity of salt in it, and when they feel tender, 
 are enough. Boil and chop some parsley, put it into 
 good melted butter, and serve them up with boiled 
 bacon, and the butter and parsley, in a boat. Remem- 
 ber never to boil them with bacon, as that will greatly 
 discolour them. 
 
 Kidney Beans. 
 
 First carefully string them, then slit them down 
 the middle, and cut them across. Put them into salt 
 and water, and when the water boils in your sauce- 
 pan, put them in with a little salt. They will be soon 
 clone, which may be known by their feeling tender. 
 D rain the water clear from them, lay them in a plate, 
 and send them up with butter in a sauce-boat. 
 
 Spinach. 
 
 Be careful to pick it exceeding clean, then wash it 
 in five or six waters, put it into a saucepan that will 
 just hold it, without water, throvr a little salt over it, 
 and cover it close. Put youi* saucepan on a clear 
 quick fire, and when you find the spinach shrunk and 
 fallen to the bottom, and the liquor that comes out 
 boils up, it is done. Then put it into a clean sieve to 
 drain, and just give it a gentle squeeze. Lay it on 
 a plate, and send it to table, w r ith melted butter in a 
 boat. 
 
 Cabbages. 
 
 After you have taken off the outer leaves, ana 
 well washed them, quarter them, and boil them in 
 
 No. 8. Y 
 
170 
 
 ROOTS. 
 
 plenty of water, with a handful of salt. When they 
 are tender, drain them on a sieve, but do not press 
 them. Savoys and greens must be boiled in the same 
 manner, but always by themselves, by which means 
 they will eat crisp, and be of a good colour. 
 
 Turnips . 
 
 These may be boiled in the same pot with your 
 meat, and, indeed, will eat best if so done. When 
 they are enough, take them out, put them into a pan, 
 mash them with butter, and a little salt, and in that 
 state send them to table. 
 
 Another method of boiling turnips is thus : When 
 you have pared them, cut them into little square 
 pieces, then put them into a saucepan, and just cover 
 them with water. As soon as they are enough, take 
 them off the fire, and put them into a sieve to drain. 
 Then put them into a saucepan, with a good piece of 
 butter, stir them over the fire a few minutes, put them 
 into your dish, and serve them up. 
 
 Carrots. 
 
 Scrape your carrots very clean, put them into the 
 pot, and when they are enough, take them out and 
 rub them in a clean cloth. Then slice them into a 
 plate, and pour some melted butter over them. If 
 they are young, half an hour will sufficiently boil them. 
 
 Parsnips. 
 
 These must be boiled in plenty of water, and when 
 they are soft, which you may know by running a fork 
 into them, take them up. Scrape them all fine with 
 a knife, throw away all the sticky part, and send them 
 to table, with melted butter in a sauce-boat. 
 
 Potatoes. 
 
 These must be boiled in so small a quantity of 
 water as will be just sufficient to keep the saucepan 
 from burning. Keep them close covered, and as soon 
 as the skins begin to crack, they are enough. Having 
 drained out all the water, let them remain in the sauce- 
 pan covered for two or three minutes ; then peel them, 
 
BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 171 
 
 lay them in a plate, and pour some melted butter over 
 them. Or when you have peeled them, you may do 
 thus : lay them on the gridiron till they are of a fine 
 brown, and then send them to table. 
 
 Potatoes scolloped. 
 
 Having boiled your potatoes, beat them fine in a 
 bowl, with some cream, a large piece of butter, and a 
 little salt. P i it them into scollop-shells, make them 
 smooth on the top, score them with a knife, and lay 
 thin slices of butter on the tops of them. Then put 
 them into a Dutch oven to brown before the fire. — 
 This makes a pretty dish for a light supper. 
 
 Hops. 
 
 They are to be boiled in water, with a little salt, 
 and eat as a salad, with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 PUDDINGS. 
 
 IN this degree of cookery some previous and gene- 
 ral observations are necessary, the most material of 
 which are, first, that your cloth be thoroughly clean, 
 and before you put your pudding into it, dip it into 
 boiling water, strew some flour over it, and then give 
 it a shake. If it is a bread pudding, tie it loose ; but 
 if a batter pudding, close ; and never put your pudding 
 in till the water boils. All bread and custard puddings 
 that are baked require time and a moderate oven ; but 
 batter and rice puddings a quick oven. Before you 
 put your pudding into the dish for baking be careful 
 always to moisten the bottom and sides with butter. 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 Bread Pudding. 
 
 Take the crumb of a penny loaf, cut it into very 
 
172 
 
 BOILED. 
 
 thin slices, put it into a quart of milk, and set it over a 
 a chafing-dish of coals till the bread has soaked up all 
 the milk. Then put in a piece of butter, stir it round, 
 and let it stand till it is cold ; or you may boil your 
 milk, and pour it over the bread, and cover it up close, 
 which will equally answer the same purpose. Then 
 take the yolks of six eggs, the whites of three, and 
 beat them up with a little rose-water and nutmeg, and 
 a little salt and sugar. Mix all well together, and 
 put it into your cloth, tie it loose to give it room to 
 swell, and boil it an hour. When done, put it into 
 your dish, pour melted butter over, and serve it to 
 table. 
 
 Another, but more expensive, way of making a 
 bread-pudding is this : cut thin all the crumb of a 
 stale penny loaf, and put it into a quart of cream, set 
 it over a slow fire, till it is scalding hot, and then let it 
 stand till it is cold. Beat up the bread and the cream 
 well together, and grate in some nutmeg. Take twelve 
 bitter almonds, boil them in two spoonsful of water, 
 pour the water to the cream, stir it in with a little salt, 
 and sweeten it to your taste. Blanch the almonds in 
 a mortar, with two spoonsful of rose or orange-flower 
 water, till they are a fine paste ; then mix them by 
 degrees with the cream. Take the yolks of eight eggs, 
 and the whites of four, beat them up well, put them 
 into the cream likewise, and mix the whole well to- 
 gether. Dip your cloth into warm water, and flour it 
 well, before you put in the pudding; tie it loose, and 
 let it boil an hour. Take care the water boils when 
 you put it in, and that it keeps so all the time. When 
 it is enough, turn it into your dish. Melt some but- 
 ter, and put in it two or three spoonsful of white wine 
 or sack; give it a boil, and pour it over your pudding. 
 Then strew a good deal of fine sugar over your pud- 
 ding and dish, and send it hot to table. Instead of a 
 cloth, you may boil it in a bowl or basin, which is in- 
 deed the better way of the two. In this case, when 
 it is enough, take it up in the basin, and let it stand 
 a minute or two to cool ; then untie the string, wrap 
 
PUDDINGS. 
 
 173 
 
 the cloth round the basin, lay your dish over it, and 
 turn the padding oat ; then take off the basin and cloth 
 with great care, otherwise a light pudding will be sub- 
 ject to break in turning out. 
 
 Batter Pudding. 
 
 Take a quart of milk, beat up the yolks of six eggs, 
 and the whites of three, and mix them with a quarter 
 of a pint of milk. Then take six spoonsful of flour, a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, and one of ginger. Put to these 
 the remainder of the milk, mix all well together, put 
 it into your cloth, and boil it an hour and a quarter. 
 Pour melted butter over it when you serve it up. 
 
 A batter pudding may be made without eggs, in 
 which case proceed thus : take a quart of milk, mix 
 six spoonsful of flour with a little of the milk first, a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, two of beaten ginger, and two of 
 the tincture of saffron. Then mix all together, and 
 boil it an hour. 
 
 Custard Pudding. 
 
 Put a piece of cinnamon into a pint of thick cream, 
 boil it, and add a quarter of a pound of sugar. When 
 cold, put in the yolks of five eggs well beaten : stir 
 this over the fire till it is pretty thick, but be careful 
 it does not boil. When quite cold, butter a cloth well, 
 dust it with flour, tie the custard in it very close, and 
 boil it three quarters of an hour. When you take it 
 up put it into a basin to cool a little; untie the cloth, 
 lay the dish on the basin, and turn it carefully out. 
 Grate over it a little sugar, and serve it up with melted 
 butter and a little wine in a boat. 
 
 Quaking Pudding. 
 
 Take a quart of cream, boil it, and let it stand till 
 almost cold ; then beat up four eggs very fine, with a 
 spoonful and a half of flour : mix them well with your 
 cream : add sugar and nutmeg to your palate. Tie 
 it close up in a cloth w T ell buttered. Let it boil an 
 hour, and then turn it carefully out. Pour over it 
 melted butter. 
 
174 
 
 BOILED 
 
 Sago Pudding. 
 
 Boil two ounces of sago in a pint of milk till ten 
 der. When cold, add five eggs, two Naples biscuits, 
 a little brandy, and sugar to the taste. Boil it in a 
 basin, and serve it up with melted butter, and a little 
 wine and sugar. 
 
 Marrow Pudding. 
 
 Grate a small loaf into crumbs, and pour on them 
 a pint of boiling hot cream. Cut a pound of beef mar- 
 row very thin, beat up four eggs well, and then add a 
 glass of brandy, with sugar and nutmeg to your taste. 
 Mix them all well together, and boil it three quarters 
 of an hour. Cut two ounces of citron into very thin 
 bits, and when you dish up your pudding, stick them 
 all over it. 
 
 Biscuit Pudding. 
 
 Pour a pint of boiling milk or cream over six pen- 
 ny Naples biscuits grated, and cover it close. When 
 cold, add the yolks of four eggs, the whites of two, 
 some nutmeg, a little brandy, half a spoonful of flour, 
 and some sugar. Boil it an hour in a china basin, and 
 serve it up with melted butter, wine, and sugar. 
 
 Jilmond Pudding. 
 
 Take a pound of sweet almonds, and beat them as 
 fine as possible, with three spoonsful of rose-water, 
 and a gill of sack or white wine. Mix in half a pound 
 of fresh butter melted, with five yolks of eggs, and two 
 whites, a quart of cream, a quarter of a pound of 
 sugar, half a nutmeg grated, one spoonful of flour, and 
 three spoonsful of crumbs of bread. Mix all well to- 
 gether, and boil it. Half an hour will do it. 
 
 Tansey Pudding. 
 
 Put as much boiling cream to four Naples biscuits 
 grated as will wet them, beat them with the yolks of 
 four eggs. Have ready a few chopped tansey-leaves, 
 with as much spinach as will make it pretty green. 
 Be careful not to put too much tansey in, because it 
 will make it bitter. Mix all together when the cream 
 
PUDDINGS. 
 
 175 
 
 is cold, with a little sugar, and set it over a slow’ lire 
 till it grows thick, then take it off, and, when cold, p ! < 
 it in a cloth, well buttered and floured ; tie it up clo.-< , 
 and let it boil three quarters of an hour; then take , 
 up in a basin, and let it stand one quarter, then t e , 
 it carefully out, and put w hite wine sauce round it. 
 
 Or you may do it thus : 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of almonds, blanch 
 them, and beat them very fine with rose-water; slice 
 a French roll very thin, put in a pint of cream boiling- 
 hot ; beat four eggs very well, and mix with the eggs, 
 when beaten, a little sugar and grated nutmeg, a glass 
 of brandy, a little juice of tansey, and the juice of 
 spinach to-make it green. Put all the ingredients into 
 a stew-pan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, and 
 give it a gentle boil. You may either put it into a 
 cloth and boil it, or bake it in a dish. 
 
 Herb Pudding. 
 
 Steep a quart of grits in warm water half an hour, 
 and then cut a pound of hog’s lard into little bits. 
 Take of spinach, beets, parsley, and leeks, a handful 
 of each : three large onions chopped small, and three 
 sage leaves cut very fine. Put in a little salt, mix all 
 well together, and tie it close. It will require to be 
 taken up while boiling, in order to loosen the string. 
 
 Spinach Pudding. 
 
 Pick and wash clean a quarter of a peck of spinach, 
 put it into a saucepan with a little salt, cover it close, 
 and when it is boiled just tender, throw it into a sieve 
 to drain. Then chop it with a knife, beat up six eggs, 
 and mix with it half a pint of cream, and a stale roll 
 grated fine, a little nutmeg, and a quarter of a pound 
 of melted butter. Stir all well together, put it into 
 the saucepan in which you boiled the spinach, and 
 keep stirring it all the time till it begins to thicken. 
 Then wet and flour your cloth well, tie it up, and boii 
 it an hour. When done, turn it into your dish, pour 
 
176 
 
 BOILED 
 
 melted butter over it, with the juice of Seville orange, 
 and strew on a little grated sugar. 
 
 Cream Pudding. 
 
 Boil a quart of cream with a blade of mace, and 
 half a nutmeg grated, and then let it stand to cool. 
 Beat up eight eggs, and three whites, and strain them 
 well. Mix a spoonful of flour with them, a quarter 
 of a pound of almonds blanched and beat very fine, 
 with a spoonful of orange-flower or rose-water. Then 
 by degrees mix in the cream, and stir all well together. 
 Take a thick cloth, wet and flour it well, pour in your 
 mixture, tie it close, and boil it half an hour. Let 
 the water boil fast all the time, and, when done, turn 
 it in your dish, pour melted butter over it, with a lit- 
 tle wine or sack, and strew on the top fine sugar 
 grated. 
 
 Hunting Pudding. 
 
 Mix eight eggs beat up fine with a pint of good 
 cream, and a pound of flour. Beat them well toge- 
 ther, and put to them a pound of beef suet finely chop- 
 ped, a pound of currants well cleaned, half a pound 
 of jar-raisins stoned and chopped small, two ounces of 
 candied orange cut small, the same of candied citron, 
 a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and a large 
 nutmeg grated. Mix all together with half a gill of 
 brandy, put it into a cloth, and boil it for four hours. 
 Be sure to put it in when the water boils, and keep it 
 boiling all the time. When done, turn it into a dish, 
 and strew over it powdered sugar. 
 
 Steak Pudding. 
 
 Make a good crust, with flour and suet shred fine, 
 and mix it up with cold water ; season it with a little 
 salt, and make it pretty stiff. Take either beef or 
 mutton steaks, well season them with pepper and salt, 
 and make it up as you would an apple pudding, tie 
 it in a cloth, and put it in when the water boils. If a 
 small pudding, it will take three hours ; if a large one, 
 five hours. 
 
PUDDINGS. 
 
 177 
 
 Calf's Foot Pudding. 
 
 Mince very fine a pound of calf’s feet, first taking 
 out the fat and brown. Then take a pound and a half 
 of suet, pick off all the skin, and shred it small. Take 
 six eggs, all the yolks, and but half the whites, and 
 beat them well. Then take the crumb of a half-penny 
 roll grated, a pound of currants clean picked and wash- 
 ed, and rubbed in a cloth, as much milk as will mois- 
 ten it with the eggs, a handful of flour, and a little salt, 
 nutmeg, and sugar, to season it to your taste. Boil it 
 four hours ; then take it up, lay it in your dish, and 
 pom* melted butter over it. If you put white wine 
 and sugar into the butter it will be a pleasing addition. 
 
 Prune Pudding. 
 
 Take a few spoonsful from a quart of milk, and 
 beat in it six yolks of eggs and three whites, four 
 spoonsful of flour, a little salt, and two spoonsful of 
 beaten ginger. Then by degrees mix in the rest of 
 the milk, and a pound of prunes. Tie it up in a cloth, 
 boil it an hour, and pour over it melted butter. Dam- 
 sons done in the same manner are equally good. 
 
 Plum Pudding. 
 
 Cut a pound of suet into small pieces, but not too 
 fine, a pound of currants washed clean, a pound of rai- 
 sins stoned, eight yolks of eggs, and four whites, half 
 a nutmeg grated, a tea-spoonful of beaten ginger, a 
 pound of flour, and a pint of milk. Beat the eggs first, 
 then put to them half the milk, and beat them toge- 
 ther ; and, by degrees, stir in the flour, then the suet, 
 spice and fruit, and as much milk as will mix it well 
 together, very thick. It will take four hours boiling. 
 When done, turn it into your dish, and strew over it 
 grated sugar. 
 
 Hasty Pudding. 
 
 Put four bay-leaves into a quart of milk, and set 
 it on the fire to boil. Then beat up the yolks of two 
 eggs with a little salt. Take two or three spoonsful 
 of milk, and beat up with your eggs, take out the bay- 
 
 No. 8. Z 
 
BOILED 
 
 173 
 
 leaves, and stir up the remainder of the milk. Then 
 with a wooden spoon in one hand, and flour in the 
 other, stir it in till it is of a good thickness, but not 
 too thick. Let it boil, and keep it stirring ; then pour 
 it into a dish, and stick pieces of butter in different 
 places. Remember, before you stir in the flour to 
 take out the bay-leaves. 
 
 Oatmeal Pudding. 
 
 Take a pint of whole oatmeal, and steep it in a 
 quart of boiled milk over night. In the morning take 
 half a pound of beef suet shred fine, and mix with the 
 oatmeal and milk ; then add to them some grated nut- 
 meg and a little salt, with three eggs beat up, a quar- 
 ter of a pound of currants, the same quantity of raisins, 
 and as much sugar as will sweeten it. Stir the whole 
 well together, tie it pretty close, and boil it tw o hours. 
 When done, turn it into your dish, and pour over it 
 melted butter. 
 
 Suet Pudding. 
 
 Take six spoonsful of flour, a pound of suet shred 
 small, four eggs, a spoonful of beaten ginger, a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and a quart of milk. Mix the eggs 
 and flour with a pint of the milk very thick, and with 
 the seasoning mix in the rest of the milk with the suet. 
 Let your batter be pretty thick, and boil it two hours. 
 
 Veal Suet Pudding. 
 
 Take a three-penny loaf, and cut the crumb of it 
 into slices. Boil and pour two quarts of milk on the 
 bread, and then put to it one pound of veal suet melt- 
 ed down. Add to these one pound of currants, and 
 sugar to the taste, half a nutmeg, and six eggs well 
 mixed together. This pudding may be either boiled 
 or baked ; if the latter, be careful to well butter the 
 inside of your dish. 
 
 Cabbage Pudding. 
 
 Take one pound of beef suet, and as much of the 
 lean part of a leg of veal. Then take a little cabbage 
 well washed, and scald it. Bruise the suet, veal, and 
 
PUDDINGS 
 
 179 
 
 cabbage together in a marble mortar, and season it 
 with mace, nutmeg, ginger, a little pepper and salt, 
 and put in some green gooseberries, grapes, or bar- 
 berries. Mix them all well with the yolks of four or 
 five eggs well beaten. Wrap all up together in a green 
 cabbage leaf, and tie it in a cloth. It will take about 
 an hour boiling. 
 
 A Spoonful Pudding. 
 
 Take a spoonful of flour, a spoonful of cream or 
 milk, an egg, a little nutmeg, ginger, and salt. Mix 
 all together, and boil it in a little wooden dish half an 
 hour. If you think proper you may add a few currants. 
 
 White Puddings in Skins. 
 
 Boil half a pound of rice in milk till it is soft, hav- 
 ing first washed the rice well in warm water. Put it 
 into a sieve to drain, and beat half a pound of Jordan 
 almonds very fine with some rose-water. Wash and 
 dry a pound of currants, cut in small bits a pound of 
 hog's lard, beat up six eggs well, half a pound of sugar, 
 a large nutmeg grated, a stick of cinnamon, a little 
 mace, and a little salt. Mix them well together, fill 
 your skins, and boil them. 
 
 Apple Pudding. 
 
 Having made a puff paste, roll it near half an inch 
 thick, and fill the crust with apples pared and cored. 
 Grate in a little lemon-peel, and, in the winter, a lit- 
 tle lemon-juice, (as it quickens the apples,) put in some 
 sugar, close the crust, and tie it in a cloth. A small 
 pudding will take two hours boiling, and a large one 
 three or four. 
 
 Apple Dumplings. 
 
 When you have pared your apples, take out the 
 core with the apple-corer, and fill up the hole with 
 quince, orange-marmalade, or sugar, as may best suit 
 you. Then take a piece of paste, make a hole in it, 
 lay in your apples, put another piece of paste in the 
 same form over it, and close it up round the side of the 
 apples. Put them into boiling water, and about three 
 
180 
 
 BOILED 
 
 quarters of an hour will do them. Serve them up 
 with melted butter poured over them. 
 
 Suet Dumplings. 
 
 Take a pint of milk, four eggs, a pound of suet, a 
 little salt and nutmeg, two tea- spoonsful of ginger, and 
 such a quantity of flour as will make it into a light 
 paste. When the water boils, make the paste into 
 dumplings, and roll them in a little flour. Then put 
 them into the water, and move them gently, to pre- 
 vent their sticking. A little more than half an hour 
 will boil them. 
 
 Raspberry Dumplings. 
 
 Make a good puff paste and roll it. Spread over it 
 raspberry jam, roll it into dumplings, and boil them 
 an hour. Pour melted butter into the dish, and strew 
 over them grated sugar. 
 
 Yeast Dumplings. 
 
 Make a light dough with flour, water, yeast, and 
 salt, as for bread, cover it with a cloth, and set it be- 
 fore the fire for half an hour. Then have a saucepan 
 of water on the fire, and when it boils take the dough, 
 and make it into round balls, as big as a large hen s 
 egg. Then flatten them with your hand, put them 
 into the boding water, and a few minutes will do them. 
 Take care that they do not fall to the bottom of the 
 pot or saucepan, as in that case they will then be hea- 
 vy, and be sure to keep the water boiling all the time. 
 When they are enough, take them up, and lay them 
 in your dish, with melted butter in a boat. 
 
 Norfolk Dumplings. 
 
 Take half a pint of milk, two eggs, a little salt, and 
 make them into a good thick batter with flour. Have 
 ready a clean saucepan of water boiling, and drop your 
 batter into it, and two or three minutes will boil them ; 
 but be particularly careful that the water boils fast 
 when you put the batter in. Then throw them into 
 a sieve to drain, turn them into a dish, and stir a lump 
 of fresh butter into them. 
 
PUDDINGS. 
 
 181 
 
 Hard Dumplings. 
 
 Make some flour and water, with a little salt, into 
 a sort of paste. Roll them in balls in a little flour, 
 throw them into boiling water, and half an hour will 
 boil them. They are best boiled with a good piece 
 of beef. 
 
 Potatoe Pudding. 
 
 Boil half a pound of potatoes till they are soft, then 
 peel them, mash them with the back of a spoon, and 
 rub them through a sieve to have them fine and smooth. 
 Then take half a pound of fresh butter melted, half a 
 pound of fine sugar, and beat them well together till 
 they are quite smooth. Beat up six eggs, whites as 
 well as yolks, and stir them in with a glass of sack or 
 brandy. Pour it into your cloth, tie it up, and about 
 half an hour will do it. When you take it out, melt 
 some butter, put into it a glass of wine sweetened with 
 sugar, and pour it over your pudding. 
 
 Black Puddings. 
 
 Before you kill a hog, get a peck of grits, boil 
 them half an hour in water, then drain them, and put 
 them in a clean tub, or large pan. Then kill your hog, 
 save two quarts of the blood, and keep stirring it till it 
 is quite cold ; then mix it with your grits, and stir 
 them well together. Season with a large spoonful of 
 salt, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, mace, and nutmeg 
 together, an equal quantity of each ; dry it, beat it 
 well, and mix in. Take a little winter savory, sweet- 
 marjorum, and thyme, penny-royal stripped of the 
 stalks, and chopped very fine, just enough to season 
 them, and to give them a flavour, but no more. The 
 next day take the leaf of the hog, and cut it into dice, 
 scrape and wash the guts very clean, then tie one end, 
 and begin to fill them ; mix in the fat as you fill them ; 
 be sure to put in a good deal of fat, fill the skins three 
 parts full, tie the other end, and make your pudding 
 what, length you please ; prick them with a pin, and 
 put them in a kettle of boiling water. Boil them very 
 
BAKED 
 
 182 
 
 softly an hour, then take them out, and lay them on 
 clean straw. 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 BAKED PUDDINGS. 
 
 Vermicelli Puddings. 
 
 Take four ounces of vermicelli, and boil it m a 
 pint of new milk till it is soft, with a stick or two of 
 cinnamon. Then put in half a pint of thick cream, a 
 quarter of a pound of butter, the like quantity of sugar, 
 and the yolks of four eggs beaten fine. Bake it with- 
 out paste in an earthen dish. 
 
 Sweetmeat Pudding. 
 
 Cover your dish with a thin puff-paste, and then 
 take candied orange or lemon-peel, and citron, of each 
 an ounce. Slice them thin, and lay them all over the 
 bottom of the dish. Then beat up eight yolks of eggs, 
 and two whites, and put to them half a pound of sugar, 
 and half a pound of melted butter. Mix the whole 
 well together, put it on the sweetmeats, and send it to 
 a moderate heated oven. About an hour will do it. 
 
 Orange Pudding 
 
 Boil the rind of a Seville orange very soft, then 
 beat it in a marble mortar with the juice, and put to it 
 two Naples biscuits grated very fine, a quarter of a 
 pound of sugar, half a pound of butter, and the yolks 
 of six eggs. Mix them well together, lay a good puff- 
 paste round the edge of your dish, and bake it an hour 
 in a gentle oven. Or you may make it thus : 
 
 Take the yolks of sixteen eggs, beat them well with 
 half a pint of melted butter, grate in the rinds of two 
 fine Seville oranges, beat in half a pound of fine sugar, 
 two spoonsful of orange-flower water, two of rose- 
 water, a gill of sack, half a pint of cream, two Naples 
 biscuits, or the crumb of a penny loaf soaked in cream, 
 and mix all well together. Make a thin puff-paste. 
 
PUDDINGS. 133 
 
 and lay it all round the rim, and over the dish. Then 
 pour in the pudding, and send it to the oven. 
 
 Lemon Pudding. 
 
 Take three lemons, cut the rinds off very thin, and 
 boil them in three quarts of water till they are tender. 
 Then pound them very fine in a mortar, and have rea- 
 dy a quarter of a pound of Naples biscuits boiled up in 
 a quart of milk or cream. Mix them and the lemon 
 rind with it, and beat up twelve yolks and six whites 
 of eggs very fine. Melt a quarter of a pound of fresh 
 butter, and put in half a pound of sugar, and a little 
 orange-flower water. Mix all well together, put it 
 over the fire, keep it stirring till it is thick, and then 
 squeeze in the juice of half a lemon. Put puff-paste 
 round your dish, then pour in your pudding, cut some 
 caudied sweetmeats and strew over it, and bake it 
 three quarters of an hour. Or you may make it in 
 this manner : 
 
 Blanch and beat eight ounces of Jordan almonds 
 with orange-flower water, and add to them half a 
 pound of cold butter, the yolks of ten eggs, the juice 
 of a large lemon, and half the rind grated fine. Work 
 them in a marble mortar till they look white and light, 
 then put the puff-paste on your dish, pour in your pud- 
 ding, and bake it half an hour. 
 
 Almond Pudding 
 
 Take a little more than three ounces of the crumb 
 of white bread sliced, or grated, and steep it in a pint 
 and a half of cream. Then beat half a pint of blanch- 
 ed almonds very fine, till they are like a paste, with a 
 little orange-flower water. Beat up the yolks of eight 
 eggs, and the whites of four. Mix all well together, 
 put in a quarter of a pound of ^ hite sugar, and stir in 
 about a quarter of a pound of melted butter. Put it 
 over the fire, and keep stirring it till it is thick. Lay 
 a sheet of puff-paste at the bottom of your dish, and 
 pour in the ingredients Half an hour will bake it. 
 
1S4 
 
 BAKED 
 
 Rice Pudding. 
 
 Boil four ounces of ground rice till it is soft, then 
 beat up the yolks of four eggs, and put to them a pint 
 of cream, four ounces of sugar, and a quarter of a pound 
 of butter. Mix them well together, and either boil or 
 bake it. Or you may make it thus : 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of rice, put it into a 
 saucepan, with a quart of new milk, a stick of cinna- 
 mon, and stir it often to prevent its sticking to the 
 saucepan. When boiled till thick, put it into a pan, stir 
 in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and sweeten it 
 to your palate. Grate in half a nutmeg, add three or 
 four spoonsful of rose-water, and stir all well together. 
 When it is cold, beat up eight eggs with half the 
 whites, mix them well in, pour the whole in a butter- 
 ed dish, and send it to the oven. 
 
 If you would make a cheap boiled rice pudding, pro- 
 ceed thus : Take a quarter of a pound of rice, and 
 half a pound of raisins, and tie them in a cloth ; but 
 give the rice a good deal of room to swell. Boil it two 
 hours, and when it is enough, turn it into your dish, 
 and pour melted butter and sugar over it, with a lit- 
 tle nutmeg. Or you may make it thus : Tie a quar- 
 ter of a pound of rice in a cloth, but give it room for 
 swelling. Boil it an hour, then take it up, untie it, 
 and with a spoon stir in a quarter of a pound of butter. 
 Grate some nutmeg, and sweeten it to your taste. 
 Then tie it up close, and boil it another hour. Then 
 take it up, turn it into your dish, and pour over it 
 melted butter. 
 
 Millet Pudding. 
 
 Wash and pick clean half a pound of millet-seed, 
 put it into half a pound of sugar, a whole nutmeg grat- 
 ed, and three quarts of milk, and break in half a pound 
 of fresh butter. Butter your dish, pour it in, and send 
 it to the oven. 
 
 Oat Pudding. 
 
 Take a pound of oats with the husks off, and lay 
 them in new milk, eight ounces of raisins of the sun 
 
PUDDINGS. 
 
 185 
 
 stoned, the same quantity of currants well picked and 
 washed, a pound of suet shred fine, and six new laid 
 eggs well beat up. Season with nutmeg, beaten gin- 
 ger, and salt, and mix them all well together. 
 
 Transparent Padding. 
 
 Beat up eight eggs well in a pan, and put to them 
 half a pound of butter, and the same quantity of loaf 
 sugar beat fine, with a little grated nutmeg. Set it on 
 the fire, and keep stirring it till it is the thickness of 
 buttered eggs. Then put it into a basin to cool, roll a 
 rich puff-paste very thin, lay it round the edge of your 
 dish, and pour in the ingredients. Put it into a mod- 
 rate heated oven, and about half an hour will do it. 
 
 French Barley Pudding. 
 
 Beat up the yolks of six eggs, and the whites of 
 three, and put them into a quart of cream. Sweeten 
 it to your palate, and put in a little orange-flower wa- 
 ter, or rose-water, and a pound of melted butter. Then 
 put in six handsful of French barley, having first boil- 
 ed it tender in milk. Then butter a dish, pour it in, 
 and send it to the oven. 
 
 Potatoe Pudding. 
 
 Boil two pounds of white potatoes till they are soft, 
 peel and beat them in a mortar, and rub them through 
 a sieve till they are quite fine. Then mix in half a 
 pound of fresh butter, melted, beat up the yolks of 
 eight eggs, and the whites of three. Add half a pound 
 of white sugar finely pounded, half a pint of sack, and 
 stir them well together. Grate in half a large nutmeg, 
 and stir in half a pint of cream. Make a puff-paste, 
 lay it all over the dish, and round the edges ; pour 
 in your pudding, and bake it till it is of a fine light 
 brown. 
 
 Lady Sunderland's Pudding. 
 
 Beat up the yolks of eight eggs with the whites 
 of three, add to them five spoonsful of flour, with half 
 a nutmeg, and put them into a pint of cream. Butter 
 
 No. 8. 2 A 
 
186 
 
 BAKED 
 
 the insides of some small basins, fill them half full, and 
 bake them an hour. When done, turn them out of the 
 basins, and pour over them melted butter mixed with 
 wine and sugar. 
 
 Citron Pudding. 
 
 Ta ke a spoonful of fine flour, two ounces of sugar, 
 a little nutmeg, and half a pint of cream. Mix them 
 well together, with the yolks of three eggs. Put it 
 into tea-cups, and divide among them two ounces of 
 citron cut very thin. Bake them in a pretty quick 
 oven, and turn them out upon a china dish. 
 
 Chesnut Pudding. 
 
 Boil a dozen and a half of chesnuts in a saucepan 
 of water for a quarter of an hour. Then blanch and 
 peel them, and beat them in a marble mortar, with a 
 little orange-flower or rose-water and sack, till they 
 come to a fine thin paste. Then beat up twelve eggs 
 with half the whites, and mix them well. Grate half 
 a nutmeg, a little salt, and mix them with three pints 
 of cream, and half a pound of melted butter. Sweeten 
 it to your palate, and mix all together. Put it over 
 the fire, and keep stirring it till it is thick. Lay a 
 puff-paste all over the dish, pour in the mixture, and 
 send it to the oven. When you cannot get cream, 
 take three pints of milk, beat up the yolks of four eggs, 
 and stir into the milk. Set it over the fire, stirring it 
 all the time till it is scalding hot, and then mix it in- 
 stead of cream. 
 
 Quince Pudding. 
 
 Scald your quinces till they are very tender, then 
 pare them thin, and scrape off all the soft part. Strew 
 sugar on them till they are very sweet, and put to them 
 a little ginger and a little cinnamon. To a pint of 
 cream put three or four yolks of eggs, and stir your 
 quinces in it till it is of a good thickness. Butter your 
 dish, pour it in, and bake it. In the same manner 
 you may treat apricots, or white-pear plums. 
 
PUDDINGS. 
 
 137 
 
 Cowslip Pudding. 
 
 Cut and pound small the flowers of a peck of cow- 
 slips, with half a pound of Naples biscuits grated, 
 and three pints of cream. Boil them a little, then 
 take them off the fire, and beat up sixteen eggs, with 
 a little cream and rose-water. Sweeten to your palate. 
 Mix it all well together, butter a dish, and pour it in. 
 Bake it, and when it is enough, throw fine sugar over 
 it, and serve it up. 
 
 Cheese-curd Puddings. 
 
 Turn a gallon of milk with rennet, and drain off 
 all the curd from the whey. Put the curd into a mor- 
 tar, and beat it with half a pound of fresh butter, till 
 the butter and the curd are well mixed. Beat the 
 yolks of six eggs, and the whites of three, and strain 
 them to the curd. Then grate two Naples biscuits 
 or a penny roll. Mix all these together, and sweeten 
 to your palate. Butter your patty-pans, and fill them 
 with the ingredients. Bake them in a moderately 
 heated oven, and when they are done, turn them out 
 into a dish. Cut citron and candied orange-peel into 
 little narrow bits, about an inch long, and blanched 
 almonds cut in long slips. Stick them here and there 
 in the tops of the puddings, according to your fancy. 
 Pour melted butter, with a little sack in it, into the 
 dish, and throw fine sugar all over them. 
 
 Apple Pudding. 
 
 Pare twelve large apples, and take out the cores. 
 Put them into a saucepan, with four or five spoonsful 
 of water, and boil them till they are soft and thick. 
 Then beat them well, stir in a pound of loaf sugar, 
 the juice of three lemons, and the peel of two cut thin 
 and beat fine in a mortar, and the yolks of eight eggs 
 Mix all well together, and bake it in a slack oven 
 When done, strew over it a little fine sugar. 
 
 Newmarket Pudding. 
 
 Slice and butter a French roll : put it into your 
 
188 
 
 BAKED 
 
 mould : between every layer put some dried cherries. 
 
 Take half a pint of cream, and a pint of milk, eight 
 
 eggs, six ounces of fine sugar, a glass of brandy, some 
 
 nutmeg, and lemon-peel. Let your dish or mould 
 
 be nicely buttered ; and when done you may turn it 
 
 out into the dish you serve it in. 
 
 (/ 
 
 A Muffin pudding may be made in the same way. 
 
 A Grateful Pudding. 
 
 To a pound of flour add a pound of white bread 
 grated. Take eight eggs, but only half the whites ; 
 beat them up, and mix with them a pint of new milk. 
 Then stir in the bread and flour, a pound of raisins 
 stoned, a pound of currants, half a pound of sugar, 
 and a little beaten ginger. Mix all well together, 
 pour it into your dish, and send it to the oven. If you 
 can get cream instead of milk it will be a material 
 improvement. 
 
 Carrot Pudding 
 
 Scrape a raw carrot very clean, and grate it. 
 Take half a pound of grated carrot and a pound of 
 grated bread ; beat up eight eggs, leave out half the 
 whites, and mix the eggs with half a pint of cream. 
 Then stir in the bread and carrot, half a pound of 
 fresh butter melted, half a pint of sack, three spoons- 
 ful of orange-flower water, and a nutmeg grated. 
 Sweeten to your palate. Mix all well together, and 
 if it be not thin enough, stir in a little new milk or 
 cream. Let it be of a moderate thickness, lay a puff- 
 paste all over the dish, and pour in the ingredients. 
 It will take an hour baking. 
 
 Yorkshire Pudding. 
 
 Take four large spoonsful of flour, and beat it up 
 well with four eggs and a little salt. Then put to them 
 three pints of milk, and mix them well together. — 
 Butter a dripping-pan, and set it under beef, mutton, 
 or a loin of veal. When the meat is about half roast- 
 ed, put in your pudding, and let the fat drip on it. 
 
PIES. 
 
 189 
 
 When it is brown at top, cut it into square pieces and 
 turn it over; and when the under side is browned 
 also, send it to table on a dish. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 PIES. 
 
 THERE are several things necessary to be parti- 
 cularly observed by the cook, in order that her labours 
 and ingenuity under this head may be brought to their 
 proper degree of perfection. One very material consi- 
 deration must be, that the heat of the oven is duly 
 proportioned to the nature of the article to be baked. 
 Light paste requires a moderate oven ; if it is too quick, 
 the crust cannot rise, and will therefore be burned ; and 
 if too slow, it will be soddened, and want that deli- 
 cate light brown it ought to have. Raised pies must 
 have a quick oven, and be well closed up, or they w 7 ill 
 sink in their sides, and lose their proper shape. Tarts 
 that are iced, should be baked in a slow oven, or the 
 icing will become brow n before the paste is properly 
 baked. 
 
 Having made these general observations respecting 
 the baking of pies, we shall now direct the cook how 
 to make the different kinds of paste, as they must be 
 proportioned in the qualities according to the respec- 
 tive articles for which they are to be used. 
 
 Puff Paste must be made thus : Take a quarter of 
 a peck of flour, and rub it into a pound of butter very 
 fine. Make it up into a light paste, with cold water, 
 just stiff enough to work it up. Then roll it out about 
 as thick as a crow n piece ; put a layer of butter all 
 over, then sprinkle on a little flour, double it up, and 
 roll it out again. Double and roll it, with layers of 
 butter three times, and it will be properly fit for use. 
 
 Short Crust. Put six ounces of butter to eight of 
 flour, and work them well together ; then mix it up 
 with as little w T ater as possible, so as to have it a stif- 
 fish paste ; then roll it out thin for use. 
 
190 
 
 MEAT PIES. 
 
 A good Paste for large Pies. Take a peek of flour, 
 and put to it three eggs ; then put in half a pound of 
 suet, and a pound and a half of butter and suet, and 
 as much of the liquor as will make it a good light crust. 
 Work it up well, and roll it out. 
 
 A standing Crust for great Pies. Take a peck 
 of flour and six pounds of butter boiled in a gallon of 
 water : skim it off into the flour, and as little of the 
 liquor as you can. Work it up well into a paste, and 
 then pull it into pieces till it is cold. Then make it 
 up into what form you please. 
 
 Paste for Tarts. Put an ounce of loaf sugar beat 
 and sifted to one pound of fine flour. Make it into a 
 stiff paste, with a gill of boiling cream, and three 
 ounces of butter. Work it well, and roll it very thin. 
 
 Paste for Custards. To half a pound of flour put 
 six ounces of butter, the yolks of two eggs, and three 
 spoonsful of cream. Mix them together, and let 
 them stand a quarter of an hour ; then w T ork it up 
 and down, and roll it out very thin. 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 MEAT PIES. 
 
 Beef Steak Bie. 
 
 Take some rump steaks, and beat them with a roll 
 ing-pin, then season them with pepper and salt to your 
 palate. Make a good crust, lay in your steaks, and 
 then pour in as much water as will fill the dish. Put 
 on the crust, send it to the oven and let it be well 
 baked. 
 
 Mutton Pie. 
 
 Take off the skin and outside fat of a loin of mut- 
 ton, cut it into steaks, and season them well with 
 popper and salt. Set them into your dish, and pour 
 in as much water as will cover them. Then put on 
 your crust, and let it be w T ell baked. 
 
MEAT PIES. 
 
 191 
 
 A Mutton Pie a-la-Perigcrd. 
 
 T ake a loin of mutton, cut it into chops, leaving 
 the bone that marks the chop ; cover your dish with 
 paste, and put the chops on it : season them with 
 salt and mixed spices : put truffles between them. — 
 Cover them with slices of bacon, and spread over the 
 whole butter the thickness of half a crown. Complete 
 your pies with a short crust, and when baked add a 
 good cullis mixed with a glass of white wine. It will 
 take two hours to bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 A Veal Pie, made of the brisket part of the breast, 
 may be done in the same manner, letting the veal first 
 be stewed. 
 
 Veal Pie. 
 
 Cut a breast of veal into pieces, season them with 
 pepper and salt, and lay them in your dish. Boil six 
 or eight eggs hard, take the yolks only, and put them 
 into different places in the pie, then pour in as much 
 water as will nearly fill the dish, put on the lid and 
 bake it well. A lamb pie must be done in the same 
 manner. 
 
 A rich Veal Pie. 
 
 Cut a loin of veal into steaks, and season them 
 with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and beaten mace. Lay 
 the meat in your dish, with sweetbreads seasoned, and 
 the yolks of six hard eggs, a pint of oysters, and half 
 a pint of good gravy. Lay a good puff- paste round 
 your dish, half an inch thick, and cover it with a lid 
 of the same substance. Bake it an hour and a quar- 
 ter in a quick oven. When it comes home, take off 
 the lid, cut it into eight or ten pieces, and stick them 
 round the inside of the rim of the dish. Cover the 
 meat with slices of lemon, and send the pie hot tc 
 table. 
 
 Lamb or Veal Pies in high Taste. 
 
 Cut your lamb or veal into small pieces, and sea- 
 son with pepper, salt, cloves, mace, and nutmegs beat 
 
192 
 
 MEAT PIES. 
 
 fine. Make a good puff-paste crust, lay it in your dish, 
 then put in your meat, and strew on it some stoned 
 raisins and currants clean washed, and some sugar. — 
 Then lay on some forcemeat-balls made sweet, and, 
 if in the summer, some artichoke bottoms boiled ; but if 
 in winter, scalded grapes. Add to these some Spa- 
 nish potatoes boiled, and cut into pieces, some candied 
 citron, candied orange, lemon-peel, and three or four 
 blades of mace. Put butter on the top, close up your 
 pie, and bake it. Have ready against it is done the 
 following composition : Mix the yolks of three eggs 
 with a pint of wine, and stir them well together over 
 the fire one way, till it is thick. Then take it off, put 
 in sugar enough to sweeten it, and squeeze in the 
 juice of a lemon. Raise the lid of your pie, put this 
 hot into it, close it up again, and send it to table. 
 
 Venison Pasty. 
 
 Take a neck and breast of venison, bone them, 
 and season them well with pepper and salt, put them 
 into a deep pan, with the best part of a neck of mut- 
 ton sliced and laid over them ; pour in a glass of red 
 wine, put a coarse paste over it, and bake it two 
 hours in an oven ; then lay the venison in a dish, pour 
 the gravy over it, and put one pound of butter over it ; 
 make a good puff-paste, and lay it near half an inch 
 thick round the edge of the dish ; roll out the lid, 
 which must be a little thicker than the paste on the 
 edge of the dish, and lay it on ; then roll out another 
 lid pretty thin, and cut in flowers, leaves, or whatever 
 form you please, and lay it on the lid. If you do not 
 want it, it will keep in the pot that it was baked in 
 eight or ten days; but let the crust be kept on, that the 
 air may not get to it. A breast and shoulder of veni- 
 son is the most proper for pasty. 
 
 Olive Pie. 
 
 Cut some thin slices from a fillet of veal, rub them 
 over with the yolks of eggs, and strew on them a few 
 crumbs of bread ; shred a little lemon-peel very fine, 
 and put it on them, with a little grated nutmeg, pep- 
 
MEAT PIES. 
 
 193 
 
 per, and salt ; roll them up very tight, and lay them 
 in a pewter dish ; pour over them half a pint of good 
 gravy, put half a pound of butter over it, make a light 
 paste, and lay it round the dish. Roll the lid half an 
 inch thick, and lay it on. 
 
 Calf's Head Pie. 
 
 Boil the head till it is tender, and then carefully 
 take off the flesh as whole as you can. Then take out 
 the eyes, and slice the tongue. Make a good puff- 
 paste crust, cover the dish, and lay in your meat. — 
 Throw the tongue over it, and lay the eyes, cut in two, 
 at each corner. Season it with a little pepper and 
 salt, pour in half a pint of the liquor it was boiled in, 
 lay on it a thin top crust, and bake it an hour in a 
 quick oven. In the meantime boil the bones of the 
 head in two quarts of liquor ; with two or three blades 
 of mace, half a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper, 
 a large onion, and a bundle of sweet herbs. Let it 
 boil till it is reduced to about a pint, then strain it off, 
 and add two spoonsful of catsup, three of red wine, a 
 small piece of butter rolled in flour, and half an ounce 
 of truffles and morels. Season it to your palate, and 
 boil it. Roll half the brains with some sage, then beat 
 them up, and add to them twelve leaves of sage chop- 
 ped very fine. Then stir all together, and give it a 
 boil. Take the other part of the brains, and beat 
 them with some of the sage chopped fine, a little lemon- 
 peel minced, and half a small nutmeg grated. Beat 
 up with an egg, and fry it in little cakes of a fine light 
 brown. Boil six eggs hard, of which take only the 
 yolks, and when your pie comes home, take off the 
 lid, lay the eggs and cakes over it, and pour in all the 
 sauce. Send it hot to table with the lid. 
 
 Calf's Feet Pie. 
 
 Boil your calf's feet in three quarts of water, with 
 three or four blade of mace, and let them boil gently 
 till it is reduced to about a pint and a half. Then 
 take out the feet, strain the liquor, and make a good 
 
 No. 9. 2 B 
 
194 
 
 MEAT PIES. 
 
 mist. Cover your dish, then take the flesh from the 
 bones, and put half into it. Strew over it half a 
 pound of currants clean washed and picked, and half 
 a pound of raisins stoned. Then lay on the rest of 
 your meats, skim the liquor they were boiled in, 
 sweeten it to your taste, and put in half a pint of white 
 wine. Then pour all into the dish, put on your lid, 
 and bake it an hour and a half. 
 
 Sweetbread Pie. 
 
 Lay a puff-paste half an inch thick at the bottom 
 of a deep dish, and put a forcemeat round the sides. 
 Cut some sweetbreads in pieces, three or four, accord- 
 ing to the size the pie is intended to be made; lay 
 them in first, then some artichoke bottoms, cut into 
 four pieces each, then some cock’s-combs, a few truf- 
 fles and morels, some asparagus tops, and fresh mush- 
 rooms, yolks of eggs boiled hard, and forcemeat balls; 
 season with pepper and salt. Almost fill the pie with 
 water, cover it, and bake it two hours. When it 
 comes from the oven, pour in some rich veal gravy, 
 thickened with a very little cream and flour 
 
 Cheshire Pork Pie. 
 
 Take the shin and loin of pork, and cut it into 
 steaks. Season them with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, 
 and make a good crust. Put into your dish a layer 
 of pork, then a layer of pippins pared and cored, and 
 sugar sufficient to sweeten it. Then place another 
 layer of pork, and put in half a pint of white wine. 
 Lay some butter on the top, close your pie, and send 
 it to the oven ; if your pie is large, you must put in a 
 pint of white wine. 
 
 Devonshire Squab Pie. 
 
 Cover your dish with a good crust, and put at the 
 bottom of it a layer of sliced pippins, and then a layer 
 of mutton steaks, cut from the loin, well seasoned with 
 pepper and salt. Then put another layer of pippins, 
 peel some onions, slice them thin, and put a laver of 
 them over the pippins. Then put a layer of mutton. 
 
PIES MADE OF POULTRY. 195 
 
 and then pippins and onions. Pour in a pint of water, 
 close up the pie, and send it to the oven. 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 PIES made of POULTRY, fyc. 
 
 A plain Goose Fie. 
 
 Quarter your goose, season it well with pepper 
 and salt, and lay it in a raised crust. Cut half a pound 
 of butter into pieces, and put it in different places on 
 the top ; then lay on the lid, and send it to an oven 
 moderately heated. 
 
 Another method of making a goose pie, with mate- 
 rial improvements, is thus: Take a goose and a fowl, 
 bone them, and season them well ; put a forcemeat in- 
 to the fowl, and then put the fowl into the goose. Lay 
 these in a raised crust, and fill the corners with a lit- 
 tle forcemeat. Put half a pound of butter on the top 
 cut into pieces, cover it, send it to the oven, and let it 
 be well baked. This pie may be eaten either hot or 
 cold, and makes a pretty side-dish for supper. 
 
 Giblet Pie. 
 
 Clean two pair of giblets well, and put all but the 
 livers into a saucepan, with two quarts of water, twen- 
 ty corns of wdiole pepper, three blades of mace, a bun- 
 dle of sweet herbs, and a large onion. Cover them 
 close, and let them stew very gently till they are ten- 
 der. Have a good crust ready, cover your dish, lay at 
 the bottom a fine rump steak seasoned with pepper 
 and salt, put in your giblets, with the livers, and strain 
 the liquor they were stewed in ; then season it with 
 salt, and pour it into your pie. Put on the lid, and 
 bake it an hour and a half. 
 
 Duck Pie. 
 
 Scald two ducks and make them very clean ; then 
 cut off the feet, the pinions, necks, and heads ; take 
 out the gizzards, livers, and hearts, pick all clean, and 
 
196 
 
 PIES MADE OF 
 
 scald them. Pick out the fat of the inside, lay a good 
 puff-paste crust all over the dish, season the ducks, 
 both inside and out, with pepper and salt, and lay them 
 in the dish with the giblets at each end properly sea- 
 soned. Put in as much water as will nearly fill the 
 pie, lay on the crust, and let it be well baked. 
 
 Pigeon Pie. 
 
 Pi ck and clean your pigeons very nicely, and then 
 season them with pepper and salt ; or put some good 
 forcemeat, or butter, pepper and salt, into each of their 
 bellies. Then cover your dish with a puff-paste crust, 
 lay in your pigeons, and put between them the necks, 
 gizzards, livers, pinions, and hearts, with the yolk of a 
 hard egg, and a beef steak in the middle. Put as much 
 water as will nearly fill the dish, lay on the top crust, 
 and bake it well. 
 
 Chicken Pie. 
 
 Season your chickens with pepper, salt, and mace. 
 Put a piece of butter into each of them, and lay them 
 in the dish with their breasts upwards. Lay a thin 
 slice of bacon over them, which will give them an 
 agreeable flavour. Then put in a pint of strong gra- 
 vy, and make a good puff-paste. Put on the lid, and 
 bake it in a moderately heated oven. 
 
 Another Method of making a Chicken Pie 
 
 Cover the bottom of the dish with a puff-paste, 
 and upon that, round the side, lay a thin layer of force- 
 meat. Cut two small chickens into pieces, season 
 them high with pepper and salt ; put some of the pieces 
 into the dish, then a sweetbread or two cut into pieces 
 and well seasoned, a few truffles and morels, some 
 artichoke bottoms cut each into four pieces, yolks of 
 eggs boiled hard, chopped a little, and strewed over 
 the top ; put in a little water, and cover the pie. 
 When it comes from the oven, pour in a rich gravy, 
 thickened with a little flour and butter. To make the 
 pie still richer, you may add fresh mushrooms, aspara- 
 gus tops, and cock’s-combs. 
 
197 
 
 POULTRY, fyC. 
 
 Partridge Pie. 
 
 Take two brace of partridges, and truss them in 
 the same manner as you do a fowl for boiling. Put 
 some shalots into a marble mortar, with some parsley 
 cut small, the livers of the partridges, and twice the 
 quantity of bacon. Beat these well together, and sea- 
 son them with pepper, salt, and a blade or two of 
 mace. When these are all pounded to a paste, add 
 to them some fresh mushrooms. Raise the crust for 
 the pie, and cover the bottom of it with the seasoning; 
 then lay in the partridges, but no stuffing in them ; put 
 the remainder of the seasoning about the sides, and 
 between the partridges. Mix together some pepper 
 and salt, a little mace, some shalots shred fine, fresh 
 mushrooms, and a little bacon beat fine in a mortar. 
 Strew this over the partridges, and lay on some thin 
 slices of bacon. Then put on the lid, and send it to 
 the oven, and two hours will bake it. When it is 
 done, remove the lid, take out the slices of bacon, 
 and scum off the fat. Put in a pint of rich veal gra- 
 vy, squeeze in the juice of an orange, and send it hot 
 to table. 
 
 Hare Pie. 
 
 Cut your hare into pieces, and season it well with 
 pepper, salt, nutmeg, and mace ; then put it into a jug 
 with half a pound of butter, close it up, set it in a cop- 
 per of boiling water, and make a rich forcemeat with 
 a quarter of a pound of scraped bacon, two onions, a 
 glass of red wine, the crumb of a two-penny loaf, a 
 little winter savory, the liver cut small, and a little 
 nutmeg. Season it high with pepper and salt, mix it 
 well up with the yolks of three eggs, raise the pie, and 
 lay the forcemeat in the bottom of the dish. Then 
 put in the hare, with the gravy that came out of it; 
 lay on the lid, and send it to the oven. An hour and 
 a half will bake it. 
 
 Rabbit Pie. 
 
 Cut a couple of young rabbits into quarters; then 
 take a quarter of a pound of bacon, and bruise it to 
 
198 
 
 MEAT PATTIES. 
 
 pieces in a marble mortar, with the livers, some 
 pepper, salt, a little mace, some parsley cut small, 
 some chives, and a few leaves of sweet basil. When 
 these are all beaten fine, make the paste, and cover 
 the bottom of the pie with the seasoning. Then put 
 in the rabbits, pound some more bacon in a mortar, 
 and with it some fresh butter. Cover the rabbits 
 with this, and lay over it some thin slices of bacon ; 
 put on the lid, and send it to the oven. It will take 
 two hours baking. When it is done, remove the lid, 
 take out the bacon, and skim off the fat. If there is 
 not gravy enough in the pie, pour in some rich mutton 
 or veal gravy boiling hot. 
 
 Another Method, of making a Rabbit Pie, and which 
 is particularly done in the County of Salop. 
 
 Cut two rabbits into pieces, with two pounds of 
 fat pork cut small, and season both with pepper and 
 salt to your taste. Then make a good puff-paste crust, 
 cover your dish with it, and lay in your rabbits. Mix 
 the pork with them ; but take the livers of the rabbits, 
 parboil them, and beat them in a mortar, with the 
 same quantity of fat bacon, and a little sweet herbs, 
 and some oysters. Season with pepper, salt, and nut- 
 meg, mix it up with the yolk of an egg, and make it 
 into little balls. Scatter them about your pie, with 
 some artichoke bottoms cut in dices, and some cock s- 
 combs, if you have them. Grate a small nutmeg over 
 the meat, then pour in half a pint of red wine, and 
 half a pint of water. Close your pie, and bake it an 
 hour and a half in a quick but not too fierce an oven. 
 
 Fine Patties. 
 
 Take any quantity of either turkey, house-lamb, or 
 chicken, and slice it with an equal quantity of the fat 
 of lamb, loin of veal, or the inside of a sirloin of beef, 
 and a little parsley, thyme, and lemon-peel shred. 
 Put all into a marble mortar, pound it very fine, and 
 season it with salt and white pepper. Make a fine 
 puff-paste, roll it out into thin square sheets, and put 
 
FRUIT PIES. 
 
 199 
 
 the meat in the middle. Cover the patties, close them 
 all round, cut the paste even, wash them over with 
 the yolk of an egg, and bake them twenty minutes in 
 a quick oven. Have ready a little white gravy, season- 
 ed with pepper, salt, and a little shalot, thickened up 
 with cream, or butter. When the patties come out of 
 the oven, make a hole in the top, and pour in some 
 gravy ; but take care not to put in too much, lest it 
 should run out at the sides, and spoil the appearance. 
 
 To make any Sort of Timbale. 
 
 Make your paste thus : take a pound of flour, mix 
 it well with a little water, a quarter of a pound of 
 fresh butter or hog s lard, the yolks of two eggs, and a 
 little salt ; knead this paste well, that it may be firm ; 
 take a part and roll it to the sides of your stew-pan, 
 put it in the bottom and round the sides, that it may 
 take the form of the stew-pan ; then put in any meat 
 or fish you may think fit. You must butter your stew- 
 pan well, to make it turn out. Cover it with what 
 paste remains, and send it to the oven ; or bury the 
 stew-pan in hot embers, and cover it with a lid that 
 will admit fire on the top. When turned out of the 
 stew-pan, cut a hole in the top, and put in a rich gra- 
 vy ; replace the bit of crust, and serve it up. 
 
 SECT. III. 
 
 FRUIT PIES, &c. 
 
 Apple Pie. 
 
 Make a good puff-paste crust, and put it round the 
 edge of your dish. Pare and quarter your apples, and 
 take out the cores. Then lay a thick row of apples, 
 and put in half the sugar you intend to use for your pie. 
 Mince a little lemon-peel fine, spread it over the su- 
 gar and apples, squeeze in a little juice of a lemon ; 
 then scatter a few cloves over it, and lay on the rest 
 
200 
 
 FRUIT PIES. 
 
 of your apples and sugar, with another small squeeze 
 of the juice of a lemon. Boil the parings of the apples 
 and cores in some water, with a blade of mace, till 
 the flavour is extracted ; strain it, put in a little sugar, 
 and boil it till it is reduced to a small quantity; then 
 pour it into your pie, put on your crust, and send it to 
 the oven. You may add to the apples a little quince 
 or marmalade, which will greatly enrich the flavour. 
 When the pie comes from the oven, beat up the yolks 
 of two eggs, with half a pint of cream, and a little nut- 
 meg and sugar. Put it over a slow fire, and keep 
 stirring it till it is near boiling ; then take off the lid 
 of the pie, and pom' it in. Cut the crust into small 
 three-corner pieces, and stick them about the pie. A 
 pear pie must be done in the same manner, only the 
 quince or marmalade must be omitted 
 
 Apple Tart. 
 
 Scald eight or ten large codlins, let them stand till 
 they are cold, and then take off the skins. Beat the 
 pulp as fine as possible with a spoon; then mix the 
 yolks of six eggs, and the whites of four. Beat all to- 
 gether very fine, put in some grated nutmeg, and 
 sweeten it to your taste. Melt some good fresh but- 
 ter, and beat it till it is of the consistence of fine thick 
 cream. Then make a puff-paste, and cover a tin pat- 
 ty-pan with it; pour in the ingredients, but do not 
 cover it with the paste. When you have baked it a 
 quarter of an hour, slip it out of the patty-pan on a 
 dish, and strew over it some sugar finely beaten and 
 sifted. 
 
 Cherry Pie. 
 
 Having made a good crust, lay a little of it round 
 the sides of your dish, and strew sugar at the bottom. 
 Then lay in your fruit, and some sugar at the top. Put 
 on your lid, and bake it in a slack oven. If you mix 
 some currants with the cherries, it will be a consider- 
 able addition. A plum or gooseberry pie may be made 
 in the same manner. 
 
201 
 
 FRUIT PIES, #C. 
 
 Mince Pies. 
 
 Shred three pounds of meat very fine, and chop it 
 as small as possible ; take two pounds of raisins stoned 
 and chopped very fine, the same quantity of currants, 
 nicely picked, washed, rubbed, and dried at the fire. 
 Pare half a hundred fine pippins, core them, and chop 
 them small, take half a pound of fine sugar, and pound 
 it fine, a quarter of an ounce of mace, a quarter of an 
 ounce of cloves, and two large nutmegs, all beat fine, 
 put them all into a large pan, and mix them well to- 
 gether with half a pint of brandy, and half a pint of 
 sack, put it down close in a stone pot, and it will keep 
 good three or four months. When you make your 
 pies, take a little dish, somewhat larger than a soup- 
 plate, lay a very thin crust all over it; lay a thin layer 
 of meat, and then a layer of citron, cut very thin, 
 then a layer of mincemeat, and a layer of orange-peel, 
 cut thin ; over that a little meat ; squeeze half the juice 
 of a fine Seville orange or lemon, lay on your crust, and 
 bake it nicely. These pies eat very fine cold. If you 
 make them in little patties, mix your meats and sweet- 
 meats accordingly. If you choose meat in your pies, 
 parboil a neat s tongue, peel it, and chop the meat 
 as fine as possible, and mix with the rest ; or two 
 pounds of the inside of a sirloin of beef boiled. But 
 when you use meat, the quantity of fruit must be 
 doubled. 
 
 Another Method of making Mince Pies. 
 
 Take a neat’s tongue, and boil it two hours, then 
 skin it, and chop it exceeding small. Chop very small 
 three pounds of beef suet, three pounds of good baking 
 apples, four pounds of currants clean washed, picked, 
 and well dried before the fire, a pound of jar raisins 
 stoned and chopped small, and a pound of powder 
 sugar. Mix them all together, with half an ounce of 
 mace, as much nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, 
 a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, and a pint of 
 French brandy. Make a rich puff-paste, and as you 
 fill up the pie, put in a little candied citron and orange, 
 No. 9. 2 C 
 
202 FRUIT PIES, 4*C. 
 
 cut in little pieces. What mincemeat you have to 
 spare, put close down in a pot, and cover it up ; but 
 never put any citron or orange to it till you use it. 
 
 To make Mincemeat. 
 
 Take a pound of beef, a pound of apples, two 
 pounds of suet, two pounds of sugar, two pounds of 
 currants, one pound of candied lemon or orange-peel, 
 a quarter of a pound of citron, an ounce of fine spices 
 mixed together ; half an ounce of salt, and six rinds 
 of lemon shred fine. Let the whole of these ingredi- 
 ents be well mixed, adding brandy and wine sufficient 
 to your palate. 
 
 Orange and Lemon Tarts. 
 
 Take six large oranges or lemons, rub them well 
 with salt, and put them into water, with a handful of 
 salt in it, for two days. Then change them every day 
 with fresh water, without salt, for a fortnight. Boil 
 them till they are tender, and then cut them into half 
 quarters corner-ways as thin as possible. Take six 
 pippins pared, cored, and quartered, and put them in- 
 to a pint of water. Let them boil till they break, then 
 put the liquor to your oranges or lemons, half the pulp 
 of the pippins w r ell broken, and a pound of sugar. — 
 Boil these together a quarter of an hour, then put it 
 into a pot ; and squeeze into it either the juice of an 
 orange or lemon, according to which of the tarts you 
 intend to make. Two spoonsful w T ill be sufficient to 
 give a proper flavour to your tart. Put fine puff-paste, 
 and very thin, into your patty-pans, which must be 
 small and shallow. Before you put your tarts into the 
 oven, take a feather or brush, and rub them over with 
 melted butter, and then sift some double refined sugar 
 over them, which will form a pretty icing, and make 
 them have a pleasing effect on the eye. 
 
 Tart de moi. 
 
 Put round your dish a puff-paste, and then a layer 
 of biscuit ; then a layer of butter and marrow, another 
 of all sorts of sweetmeats, or as many as you have, 
 
FISH PIES. 
 
 203 
 
 and thns proceed till yonr dish is full. Then boil a 
 quart of cream, thicken it with eggs, and put in a 
 spoonful of orange-flower water. Sweeten it with 
 sugar to your taste, and pour it over the whole. Half 
 an hour will bake it. 
 
 Artichoke Pie. 
 
 Boil twelve artichokes, break off the leaves and 
 chokes, and take the bottoms clear from the stalks. 
 Make a good puft-paste crust, and lay a quarter of a 
 pound of fresh butter all over the bottom of your pie. 
 Then lay a row of artichokes, strew a little pepper, 
 salt, and beaten mace over them, then another row, 
 strew the rest of your spice over them, and put in a 
 quarter of a pound more of butter cut in little bits. Take 
 half an ounce of truffles and morels, and boil them in 
 a quarter of a pint of water. Pour the water into 
 the pie, cut the truffles and morels very small, and 
 throw them all over the pie. Pour in a gill of white 
 wine, cover your pie, and bake it. When the crust is 
 done, the pie will be enough. 
 
 Vermicelli Pie. 
 
 Season four pigeons with a little pepper and salt; 
 stuff them with a piece of butter, a few crumbs of 
 bread, and a little parsley cut small; butter a deep 
 earthen dish well, and then cover the bottom of it with 
 two ounces of vermicelli. Make a puff-paste, roll it 
 pretty thick, and lay it on the dish, then lay in the 
 pigeons, the breasts downwards, put a thick lid on the 
 pie, and bake it in a moderate oven. When it is enough, 
 take a dish proper for it to be sent to table in, and 
 turn the pie on it. The vermicelli will be then on the 
 top, and have a pleasing effect. 
 
 SECT. IV. 
 
 FISH PIES. 
 
 Eel Pie. 
 
 When you have skinned, gutted, and washed your 
 eels very clean, cut them into pieces about an inch and 
 
204 
 
 FISH PIES. 
 
 a half long. Season them with pepper, salt, and a 
 little dried sage rubbed small. Put them into your 
 dish, with as much water as will just cover them. 
 Make a good puff-paste, lay on the lid, and send your 
 pie to the oven, which must be quick, but not so as to 
 burn the crust. 
 
 Turbot Pie . 
 
 First parboil your turbot, and then season it with 
 a little pepper, salt, cloves, nutmeg, and sweet herbs 
 cut fine. When you have made your paste, lay the 
 turbot in your dish, with some yolks of eggs, and a 
 whole onion, which must be taken out when the pie 
 is baked. Lay a good deal of fresh butter at the top, 
 put on the lid, and send it to the oven. 
 
 Sole Pie. 
 
 Cover your dish with a good crust; then boil two 
 pounds of eels till they are tender, pick the flesh from 
 the bones, and put the bones into the liquor in which 
 the eels were boiled, with a blade of mace and a little 
 salt. Boil them till there is only a quarter of a pint 
 of liquor left, and then strain it. Cut the flesh off the 
 eels very fine, and mix with it a little lemon-peel chop- 
 ped small, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, a few crumbs of 
 bread grated, some parsley cut fine, an anchovy, and 
 a quarter of a pound of butter. Lay this in the bot- 
 tom of your dish. Cut the flesh from a pair of large 
 soles, and take off the fins, lay it on the seasoning, then 
 pour in the liquor the eels were boiled in, close up your 
 pie, and send it to the table. 
 
 Flounder Pie. 
 
 Gut your flounders, wash them clean, and then dry 
 them well in a cloth. Give them a gentle boil, and 
 then cut the flesh clean from the bones, lay a good 
 crust over the dish, put a little fresh butter at the 
 bottom, and on that the fish. Season with pepper 
 and salt to your taste. Boil the bones in the water 
 the fish was boiled in, with a small piece of horse- 
 radish, a little parsley, a bit of lemon-peel, and a crust 
 
FISH PIES. 
 
 205 
 
 of bread. Boil it till there is just enough liquor for 
 the pie, then strain it, and pour it over the fish. Put 
 on the lid, and send it to a moderate heated oven. 
 
 Carp Pie. 
 
 Scrape off the scales, and then gut and wash a 
 large carp clean. Take an eel, and boil it till it is 
 almost tender ; pick off all the meat, and mince it fine, 
 with an equal quantity of crumbs of bread, a few 
 sweet herbs, lemon-peel cut fine, a little pepper and 
 salt, and grated nutmeg; an anchovy, half a pint of 
 oysters parboiled and chopped fine, and the yolks of 
 three hard eggs cut small. Roll it up with a quarter 
 of a pound of butter, and fill the belly of the carp. 
 Make a good crust, cover the dish, and lay in your 
 fish. Save the liquor you boiled your eel in, put into 
 it the eel bones, and boil them with a little mace, 
 whole pepper, an onion, some sweet herbs, and an 
 anchovy. Boil it till reduced to about half a pint, 
 then strain it, and add to it about a quarter of a pint 
 of white wine, and a piece of butter about the size of 
 a hen’s egg mixed in a very little flour. Boil it up, 
 and pour it into your pie. Put on the lid, and bake 
 it an hour in a quick oven. 
 
 Tench Pie. 
 
 Put a layer of butter at the bottom of your dish, 
 and grate in some nutmeg, with pepper, salt, and 
 mace. Then lay in your tench, cover them with some 
 butter, and pom* in some red wine with a little water. 
 Then put on the lid, and when it comes from the oven, 
 pour in melted butter mixed with some good rich 
 gravy. 
 
 Trout Pie. 
 
 Take a brace of trout, and lard them with eels; 
 raise the crust, and put a layer of fresh butter at the 
 bottom. Then make a forcemeat of trout, mushrooms, 
 truffles, morels, chives, and fresh butter. Season 
 them with salt, pepper, and spice ; mix these up with 
 the yolks of two eggs ; stuff the trout with it, lay them 
 
206 
 
 FISH PIES. 
 
 in the dish, cover them with butter, put on the lid, 
 and send it to the oven. Have some good fish gravy 
 ready, and when the pie is done, raise the crust, and 
 pour it in. 
 
 Salmon Pie . 
 
 When you have made a good crust, take a piece 
 of fresh salmon, well cleansed, and season it with salt, 
 mace, and nutmeg. Put a piece of butter at the bot- 
 tom of your dish, and then lay in the salmon. Melt 
 butter in proportion to the size of your pie, and then 
 take a lobster, boil it, pick out all the flesh, chop it 
 small, bruise the body, and mix it well with the but- 
 ter. Pour it over your salmon, put on the lid, and let 
 it be w^ell baked. 
 
 Herring Pie. 
 
 Havi ng scaled, gutted, and washed your herring 
 clean, cut off their heads, fins, and tails. Make a 
 good crust, cover your dish, arid season your herrings 
 with beaten mace, pepper, and Salt. Put a little but- 
 ter in the bottom of your dish, and then the herrings. 
 Over these put some apples and onions sliced very 
 thin. Put some butter on the top, then pour in a lit- 
 tle water, lay on the lid, send it to the oven, and let 
 it be well baked. 
 
 Lobster Pie. 
 
 Boil two or three lobsters, take the megtt out of 
 the tails, and eut it into different pieces. Then take 
 out all the spawn, and the meat of the claws ; beat it 
 well in a mortar, and season it with pepper, salt, two 
 spoonsful of vinegar, and a little anchovy liquor. Melt 
 half a pound of fresh butter, and stir all together, with 
 the crumbs of a penny roll rubbed through a fine cul- 
 lender, and the yolks of ten eggs. Put a fine puff- 
 paste over your dish, lay in the tails first, and the rest 
 of the meat on them. Put on the lid, and bake it in 
 a slow oven. 
 
207 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 PANCAKES AND FRITTERS. 
 
 THE principal things to be observed, of a general 
 nature, in dressing these articles is, that your pan be 
 thoroughly clean, that you fry them in nice sweet lard, 
 or fresh butter, of a light brown colour, and that the 
 grease is thoroughly drained from them before you 
 carry them to table. 
 
 Pancakes. 
 
 Beat six or eight eggs well together, leaving out 
 half the whites, and stir them into a quart of milk. Mix 
 your flour first with a little of the milk, and then add 
 the rest by degrees. Put in two spoonsful of beaten gin- 
 ger, a glass of brandy, and a little salt, and stir all well 
 together. Put a piece of butter into your stew-pan, 
 and then pour in a ladleful of batter, which will make 
 a pancake, moving the pan round, that the batter may 
 spread all over it. — Shake the pan, and when yon think 
 one side is enough, turn it, and when both sides are 
 done, lay it in a dish before the fire ; and in like man- 
 ner do the rest. Before you take them out of the pan, 
 raise it a little, that they may drain, and be quite clear 
 of grease. When you send them to table, strew 7 a lit- 
 tle sugar over them. 
 
 Cream Pancakes. 
 
 Mix the yolks of two eggs w ith half a pint of cream, 
 two ounces of sugar, and a little beaten cinnamon, 
 mace, and nutmeg. Rub your pan with lard, and fry 
 them as thin as possible. Grate over them some fine 
 sugar. 
 
 Rice Pancakes. 
 
 Take three spoonsful of flour and rice, and a quart 
 of cream. Set it on a slow fire, and keep stirring it 
 till it is as thick as pap. Pour into it half a pound of 
 butter, and a nutmeg grated. Then pour it into an earth- 
 en pan, and when it is cold, stir in three or four spoons- 
 
208 
 
 FRITTERS. 
 
 ful of flour, a little salt, and some sugar, and nine eggs 
 well beaten. Mix all well together, and fry them 
 nicely. When cream is not to be had, you must use 
 new milk, but in that case you must add a spoonful 
 more of the flour of rice. 
 
 Pink-coloured Pancakes. 
 
 Boil a large beet-root till it is tender, and then 
 beat it fine in a marble mortar. Add the yolks of four 
 eggs, two spoonsful of flour, and three spoonsful of cream. 
 Sweeten it to your taste, grate in half a nutmeg, and 
 add a glass of brandy. Mix all well together, and fry 
 your pancakes in butter. Garnish them with green 
 sweetmeats, preserved apricots, or green sprigs of myr- 
 tle. This makes a pretty corner- dish either for dinner 
 or supper. 
 
 Clary Pancakes. 
 
 Take three eggs, three spoonsful of fine flour, and 
 a litte salt. Beat them well together, and mix them 
 with a pint of milk. Put lard into your pan, and when 
 it is hot, pour in your batter as thin as possible, then 
 lay in some clary leaves washed and dried, and pour a 
 little more batter thin over them. Fry them of a nice 
 brown, and serve them up hot. 
 
 Plain Fritters. 
 
 Grate the crumb of a penny loaf, and put it into 
 a pint of milk ; mix it very smooth, and when cold, 
 add the yolks of five eggs, three ounces of sifted sugar, 
 and some grated nutmeg. Fry them in hog's lard, and 
 when done, pour melted butter, wine and sugar into 
 the dish. 
 
 Custard Fritters. 
 
 Beat up the yolks of eight eggs with one spoonful 
 of flour, half a nutmeg, a little salt, and a glass of bran- 
 dy, add a pint of cream, sweeten it, and bake it in 
 a small dish. When cold, cut it into quarters, and dip 
 them in batter made of half a pint of cream, a quarter 
 of a pint of milk, four eggs, a little flour, and a little 
 
FRITTERS. 209 
 
 ginger grated. Fry them in good lard or dripping, and 
 when done strew over them some grated sugar. 
 
 Apple Fritters. 
 
 Take some of the largest apples you can get, pare 
 and core them, and then cut them into round slices. 
 T ake half a pint of ale and two eggs, and beat in as 
 much flour as will make it rather thicker than a com- 
 mon pudding, with nutmeg and sugar to your taste. 
 Let it stand three or four minutes to rise. Dip your 
 slices of apple into the batter, fry them crisp, and serve 
 them up with sugar grated over them, and wine sauce 
 in a boat. 
 
 Water Fritters. 
 
 Take five or six spoonsful of flour, a little salt, 
 a quart of water, eight eggs well beat up, a glass of 
 brandy, and mix them all well together. The longer 
 they are made before dressed, the better. Just before 
 you do them, melt half a pound of butter, and beat it 
 well in. Fry them in hog's lard. 
 
 White Fritters. 
 
 Take two ounces of rice, wash it clean in water, 
 and dry it before the fire. Then beat it very fine in a 
 mortar, and sift it through a lawn sieve. Put it into a 
 saucepan, just wet it with milk, and when it is tho- 
 roughly moistened, add to it another pint of milk. Set 
 the whole over a stove, or very slow fire, and take 
 care to keep it always moving. Put in a little ginger, 
 and some candied lemon-peel grated. Keep it over 
 the fire, till it is come almost to the thickness of a fine 
 paste. When it is quite cold, spread it out with a 
 rolling-pin, and cut it into little pieces, taking care 
 they do not stick to each other. Flour your hands, 
 roll up your fritters handsomely, and fry them. When 
 done, strew on them some sugar, and pour over them 
 a little orange-flower water. 
 
 Hasty Fritters. 
 
 Put some butter into a stew-pan, and let it 
 heat. Take half a pint of good ale, and stir into it by 
 No. 9. 2D 
 
210 
 
 FRITTERS. 
 
 degrees a little flour. Put in a few currants, or chop 
 ped apples, beat them up quick, and drop a large 
 spoonful at a time all over the pan. Take care they 
 do not stick together ; turn them with an egg-slice, 
 and when they are of a fine brown, lay them on a dish, 
 strew some sugar over them, and serve them hot to 
 table. 
 
 Fritter's Royal. 
 
 Put a quart of new milk into a saucepan, and when 
 it begins to boil, pour in a pint of sack, or wine. Then 
 take it off, let it stand five or six minutes, skim off the 
 curd, and put it into a basin. Beat it up well with 
 six eggs, and season it with nutmeg. Then beat it 
 with a whisk, and add flour sufficient to give it the 
 usual thickness of batter; put in some sugar, and fry 
 them quick. 
 
 Tansey Fritters. 
 
 Pour a pint of boiling milk on the crumb of a 
 penny loaf, let it stand an hour, and then put in as 
 much juice of tansey to it as will give it a flavour. 
 Add to it a little of the juice of spinach, in order to 
 make it green. Put to it a spoonful of ratafia water, 
 or brandy, sweeten it to your taste, grate the rind of 
 half a lemon, beat the yolks of four eggs, and mix them 
 all together. Put them in a stew-pan, with a quarter 
 of a pound of butter, stir it over a slow fire till it is 
 quite thick ; take it off’, and let it stand two or three 
 hours ; then drop a spoonful at a time into a pan of 
 boiling lard ; and when clone, grate sugar over them, 
 and serve wine sauce in a boat. Garnish the dish 
 with slices of orange. 
 
 Rice Fritters. 
 
 Boil a quarter of a pound of rice in milk till it is 
 pretty thick; then mix it with a pint of cream, four 
 eggs, some sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg, six ounces 
 of currants washed and picked, a little salt, and as much 
 flour as will make it a thick batter. Fry them in lit- 
 tle cakes in boiling lard, and when done, send them up 
 with white sugar and butter. 
 
FRITTERS. 
 
 211 
 
 Chicken Fritters. 
 
 Put on a stew-pan with some new milk, and as 
 much flour of rice as will be necessary to make it of a 
 tolerable thickness. Beat three or four eggs, the yolks 
 and whites together, and mix them well with the rice 
 and milk. Add to them a pint of rich cream, set it 
 over a stove, and stir it well. Put in some powdered 
 ugar, some candied lemon- peel cut small, and some 
 fresh-grated lemon-peel. Take all the white meat 
 from a roasted chicken, pull it into small shreds, put 
 it to the rest of the ingredients, and stir it all together. 
 Then take it off, and it will be a very rich paste. Roll 
 it out, cut it into small fritters, and fry them in boiling 
 lard. Strew the bottom of the dish with sugar finely 
 powdered. Put in the fritters, and shake some sugar 
 over them. 
 
 Bilboquet Fritters. 
 
 Break five eggs into two handsful of fine flour, and 
 put milk enough to make it work well together. Then 
 put in some salt, and work it again. When it is 
 well made, put in a tea-spoonful of powder of cinna- 
 mon, the same quantity of lemon-peel grated, and 
 half an ounce of candied citron cut very small. Put 
 on a stew-pan, rub it over with butter, and put in the 
 paste. Set it over a very slow fire, and let it be done 
 gently, without sticking to the bottom or sides of the 
 pan. When it is in a manner baked, take it out, and 
 lay it on a dish. Set on a stew-pan with a large quan- 
 tity of lard ; when it boils, cut the paste the size of a 
 finger, and then cut it across at each end, which will 
 rise and be hollow, and have a very good effect. Put 
 them into the boiling lard ; but great care must be 
 taken in frying them, as they rise so much. When 
 they are done, sift some sugar on a warm dish, lay on 
 the fritters, and sift some more sugar over them. 
 
 Orange Fritters. 
 
 Take five or six sweet oranges, pare off the outside 
 as thin as possible, and cut them in quarters ; take 
 .out the seeds, and boil the oranges with a little sugar; 
 
212 
 
 FRITTERS. 
 
 make a paste with some white wine, flour, a spoonful 
 of fresh butter melted, and a little salt ; mix it neither 
 too thick nor too thin ; it should rope in pouring from 
 the spoon. Dip the quarters of your orange into this 
 paste, and fry them in hog’s lard till they are of a light 
 brown. Serve them glazed with line sugar and a sala- 
 mander. 
 
 Strawberry Fritters. 
 
 31a ke a paste with some flour, a spoonful of bran- 
 dy, a glass of white wine, and the whites of two eggs, 
 beat it up stiff, with some lemon-peel shred fine ; mix 
 it well, not too thick or thin ; dip some large straw- 
 berries into it, fry them, and glaze them with a 
 salamander. 
 
 Any kind of fruit may be fried in the same manner ; 
 if not in season, preserved are better. 
 
 Strawberry Fritters. 
 
 Make a batter with flour, a spoonful of sweet oil, 
 another of white wine, a little rasped lemon-peel, and 
 the whites of two or three eggs ; make it pretty soft, 
 just fit to drop with a spoon. Mix some large straw- 
 berries with it, and drop them with a spoon into the 
 hot fritters. When of a good colour take them out, 
 and drain them on a sieve. When done, strew some 
 sugar over them, or glaze them, and send them to 
 table. 
 
 Raspberry Fritters. 
 
 Grate the crumb of a French roll, or two Naples 
 biscuits, and put to it a pint of boiling cream. When 
 cold, add to it the yolks of four eggs well beat up. — 
 Mix all well together with some raspberry juice; 
 drop them into a pan of boiling lard in very small 
 quantities. W hen done stick them with blanched al- 
 monds sliced. 
 
 Currant Fritters. 
 
 Take half a pint of ale that is not bitter, and stir 
 into it as much flour as will make it pretty thick with 
 a few currants. Beat it up quick, have the lard boil- 
 ing, and put a large spoonful at a time into the pan. 
 
TARTS. 213 
 
 German Fritters. 
 
 Take some well tasted crisp apples, pare, quarter, 
 and core them ; take the core quite out, and cut them 
 into round pieces. Put into a stew-pan a quarter of 
 a pint of French brandy, a table spoonful of fine sugar 
 pounded, and a little cinnamon. Put the apples into 
 this liquor, and set them over a gentle fire, stirring 
 them often, but not to break them. Set on a stew- 
 pan with some lard. When it boils drain the apples, 
 dip them in some fine flour, and put them into the pan. 
 Strew some sugar over the dish, and set it on the fire ; 
 lay in the fritters, strew a little sugar over them, and 
 glaze them over with a red-hot salamander. 
 
 Almond Fraze. 
 
 Steep a pound of Jordan almonds blanched in a 
 pint of cream, ten yolks of eggs, and four whites. Then 
 take out the almonds, and pound them fine in a mor- 
 tar; mix them again in the cream and eggs, and put 
 in some sugar and grated w T hite bread. Stir them all 
 together, put some fresh butter into the pan, and as 
 soon as it is hot, pour in the batter, stirring it in the 
 pan till it is of a good thickness. When enough, turn it 
 into a dish, and throw some sugar over it. 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 TARTS AND PUFFS. 
 
 WE have already given directions for making puff- 
 paste for tarts, as also the making of Tarts as well 
 as Pies, in the commencement of the fifteenth chap- 
 ter. We have, therefore, here to treat only of those 
 of a smaller and more delicate kind, concerning which 
 the following general observations are necessary. 
 
 If you use tin patties to bake it, butter the bottoms, 
 and then put on a very thin bit of crust, otherwise you 
 will not be able to take them out ; but if you bake 
 them in glass or china, you need only use an upper 
 
214 
 
 TARTS. 
 
 crust. Put some fine sugar at the bottom, then lay 
 in your fruit, strew more sugar at top, cover them, 
 and bake them in a slack oven. Currants and rasp- 
 berries make an exceeding good tart, and require 
 little baking. 
 
 Apples and pears intended for tarts must be ma- 
 naged thus : cut them into quarters, and take out the 
 cores, then cut the quarters across, and put them into 
 a saucepan, with as much water as will barely cover 
 them, and let them simmer on a slow fire till the fruit 
 is tender. Put a good piece of lemon-peel into the 
 water with the fruit, and then have your patties ready. 
 Lay fine sugar at bottom, then your fruit, and a little 
 sugar at top. Pom over each tart one tea-spoonful 
 of lemon-juice, and three of the liquor they were boil- 
 ed in ; then put on your lid, and bake them in a slack 
 oven. Apricot tarts may be made in the same man- 
 ner, only that you must not put in any lemon-juice. 
 
 Preserved fruit requires very little baking, and that 
 which is very high preserved should not be baked at 
 all. In this case, the crust should be first baked upon 
 a tin the size of the intended tart ; cut; it with a mark- 
 ing iron, and when cold, take it off, and lay it on the 
 fruit. 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 DIFFERENT KINDS OF TARTS. 
 
 Raspberry Tart. 
 
 Roll out some thin puff-paste, and lay it in a patty- 
 pan; then put in some raspberries, and strew over 
 them some very fine sugar. Put on the lid, and bake 
 it. Then cut it open, and put in half a pint of cream, 
 the yolks of two or three eggs well beaten, and a little 
 sugar. Give it another heat in the oven, and it will 
 be fit for use. 
 
 Green Mmond Tarts. 
 
 Gather some almonds off the tree before they 
 
TARTS. 
 
 215 
 
 begin to shell, scrape off the down, and put them into 
 a pan with some cold spring water. Then put them 
 into a skillet with more spring water, set it on a slow 
 lire, and let it remain till it j List simmers. Change the 
 water twice, and let them remain in the last till they 
 begin to be tender. Then take them out, and dry 
 them well in a cloth. Make a syrup with double re- 
 fined sugar, put them into it, and let them simmer a 
 short time. Do the same the next day, put them 
 into a stone jar, and cover them very close, for if the 
 least air comes to them, they will turn black. The 
 yellower they are before they are taken out of the wa- 
 ter, the greener they will be after they are done. Put 
 them into your crust, cover them with syrup, lay on 
 the lid, and bake them in a moderate oven. 
 
 Angelica Tarts. 
 
 Pare and core some golden pippins, or nonpareils ; 
 then the stalks of angelica, peel them, and cut them 
 into small pieces; apples and angelica, of each an 
 equal quantity. Boil the apples in just water enough 
 to cover them, with lemon-peel, and fine sugar. Do 
 them very gently till they become a thin syrup, and 
 then strain it off. Put it on the fire with the angelica 
 in it, and let it boil ten minutes. Make a puff-paste, 
 lay it at the bottom of the tin, and then a layer of 
 apples, and a layer of angelica, till it is full. Pour in 
 some syrup, put on the lid, and send it to a very mo- 
 derate oven. 
 
 Rhubarb Tarts. 
 
 Take the stalks of rhubarb that grow in a garden, 
 peel them, and cut them into small pieces. Then do 
 it in every respect the same as a gooseberry tart. 
 
 Spinach Tarts. 
 
 Scald some spinach in boiling water, and then 
 drain it quite dry. Chop it, and stew it in some but- 
 ter and cream, with a very little salt, some sugar, some 
 bits of citron, and very little orange-flower water. 
 
216 
 
 TARTS. 
 
 Pat it into very fine puff-paste, and let it be baked in 
 a moderate oven. 
 
 Petit Patties. 
 
 Make a short crust, and roll it thick; take a piece 
 of veal, and an equal quantity of bacon and beef suet. 
 Shred them all very fine, season them with pepper and 
 salt, and a little sweet herbs. Put them into a stew- 
 pan, and keep turning them about, with a few mush- 
 rooms chopped small, for eight or ten minutes. Then 
 rill your patties, and cover them with crust. Colour 
 them with the yolk of an egg, and bake them. These 
 make a very pretty garnish, and give a handsome ap- 
 pearance to a large dish. 
 
 Orange Tarts. 
 
 Grate a little of the outside rind of a Seville 
 orange ; squeeze the juice of it into a dish, throw the 
 peels into water, and change it often for four days. — 
 Then set a saucepan of water on the fire, and when it 
 boils put in the oranges ; but mind to change the water 
 twice to take out the bitterness. When they are ten- 
 der, wipe them well, and beat them in a mortar till 
 they are fine. Then take their weight in double- 
 refined sugar, boil it into a syrup, and scum it very 
 clean. Put in the pulp, and boil altogether till it is 
 clear. Let it stand till cold, then put it into the tarts, 
 and squeeze in the juice. Bake them in a quick oven. 
 
 Chocolate Tarts. 
 
 R asp a quarter of a pound of chocolate, and a stick 
 of cinnamon, and add to them some fresh lemon-peel 
 grated, a little salt, and some sugar. Then take two 
 spoonsful of fine flour, and the yolks of six eggs well 
 beaten and mixed with some milk. Put all these in- 
 to a stew-pan, and let them be a little time over the 
 fire. Then take it off, put in a little lemon-peel cut 
 small, and let it stand till it is cold. Beat up enough 
 of the whites of eggs to cover it, and put it into puff- 
 paste. When it is baked, sift some sugar over it, and 
 glaze it with a salamander. 
 
PUFFS. 
 
 217 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 PUFFS, &c. 
 
 Sugar Puffs. 
 
 Beat up the whites of ten eggs till they rise to a 
 high froth, and then put them into a marble mortar, 
 with as much double-refined sugar as will make it 
 thick. Then rub it well round the mortar, put in a 
 few carraway seeds, and take a sheet of wafers, and 
 lay it on as broad as a sixpence, and as high as you 
 can. Pat them into a moderately heated oven for 
 about a quarter of an hour, and they will have a very 
 white and delicate appearance. 
 
 Lemon Puffs. 
 
 Take a pound of double-refined sugar, bruise it, 
 and sift it through a fine sieve. Put it into a bowl, 
 with the juice of two lemons, and mix them together. 
 Then beat the w T hite of an egg to a very high froth, 
 put it into your bowl, beat it half an hour, and then 
 put in three eggs, with two rinds of lemons grated. 
 Mix it well up, and throw sugar on your papers, drop 
 on the puffs in small drops, and bake them in a mo- 
 derately heated oven. 
 
 Jllmond Puffs. 
 
 Take two ounces of sweet almonds, blanch them, 
 and beat them very fine with orange-flower water. 
 Beat up the whites of three eggs to a very high froth, 
 and then strew in a little sifted sugar. Mix your al- 
 monds with the sugar and eggs, and then add more 
 sugar till it is as thick as paste. Lay it in cakes, 
 and bake them in a slack oven on paper. 
 
 Chocolate Puffs. 
 
 Beat and sift half a pound of double-refined sugar, 
 scrape into it an ounce of chocolate very fine, and mix 
 them together. Beat up the white of an egg to a 
 very high froth, and strew into it your sugar and cho- 
 colate. Keep beating it till it is as thick as paste, then 
 
 No, 10. 2 E 
 
218 
 
 CHEESECAKES. 
 
 sugar your paper, drop them on about the size of a 
 sixpence, and bake them in a very slow oven. 
 
 Curd Puffs. 
 
 Put a little rennet into two quarts of milk, and 
 when it is broken, put it into a coarse cloth to drain. 
 Then rub the curd through a hair sieve, and put to it 
 four ounces of butter, ten ounces of bread, half a nut- 
 meg, a lemon-peel grated, and a spoonful of wine. — 
 Sweeten with sugar to your taste, rub your cups with 
 butter, and put them into the oven for about half an 
 hour. 
 
 Wafers. 
 
 Take a spoonful of orange-flower water, two 
 spoonsful of flour, two of sugar, and the same of milk. 
 Beat them well together for half an hour; then make 
 your wafer tongs hot, and pour a little of your batter in 
 to cover your irons. Bake them on a stove fire, and as 
 they are baking, roll them round a stick like a spigot. 
 When they are cold, they will be very crisp, and are 
 proper to be ate either with jellies or tea. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 CHEESECAKES AND CUSTARDS. 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 CHEESECAKES. 
 
 THE shorter time any cheesecakes are made, be- 
 fore put into the oven, the better; but more particu- 
 larly almond or lemon cheesecakes, as standing long 
 will make them grow oily, and give them a disagree- 
 able appearance. Particular attention must likewise 
 be paid to the heat of the oven, which must be mo- 
 derate; for if it is too hot, they will be scorched, and 
 consequently their beauty spoiled ; and, if too slack, 
 they will look black and heavy. 
 
CHEESECAKES. 219 
 
 Common Cheesecakes. 
 
 Put a spoonful of rennet into a quart of new milk, 
 and set it near the fire. When the milk is blood- warm, 
 and broken, drain the curd through a coarse sieve. 
 Now and then break the curd gently with your fingers, 
 and rub into it a quarter of a pound of butter, the 
 same quantity of sugar, a nutmeg, and two Naples 
 biscuits grated ; the yolks of four eggs, and the white 
 of one, with an ounce of almonds well beaten with 
 two spoonsful of rose-water, and the same of sack. 
 Then clean and wash six ounces of currants, and put 
 them into the curd. Mix all well together, fill your 
 patty-pans, and send them to a moderate oven. 
 
 Fine Cheesecakes. 
 
 Put a pint of cream into a saucepan over the fire, 
 and when it is warm, add to it five quarts of milk, im- 
 mediately taken from the cow. Then put to it some 
 rennet, give it a stir about, and when it is turned, 
 put the curd into a linen cloth or bag. I <et it drain 
 well away from the whey, but do not squeeze it too 
 much. Put it into a mortar, and pound it as fine as 
 butter. Add to it half a pound of sweet-almonds 
 blanched, and half a pound of macaroons, both beat 
 exceeding fine, but if you have no macaroons, Naples 
 biscuits will do. Then add the yolks of nine eggs 
 well beaten up, a grated nutmeg, a little rose or orange- 
 flower water, and half a pound of fine sugar. Mix all 
 well together, and melt a pound and a quarter of but- 
 ter, and stir it well in. Then make a puff-paste in 
 this manner : take a pound of fine flour, wet it with 
 cold water, roll it out, put into it by degrees a pound 
 of fresh butter, and shake a little flour on each coat as 
 you roll it. Then proceed to finish your business as 
 before directed, and send them to the oven. For 
 variety, when you make them of macaroons, put in as 
 much tincture of saffron as will give them a high co- 
 lour, but no currants. These may be called saffron 
 cheesecakes. 
 
220 CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Bread Cheesecakes. 
 
 Slice a penny loaf as thin as possible, then pour on 
 it a pint of boiling cream, and let it stand two hours. 
 Then take eight eggs, half a pound of butter, and a 
 nutmeg grated. Beat them well together, and mix 
 them into the cream and bread, with half a pound of 
 currants well washed and dried, and a spoonful of 
 white wine or brandy. Bake them in patty-pans, or 
 raised crust. 
 
 Rice Cheesecakes. 
 
 Boil four ounces of rice till it is tender, and then 
 put it into a sieve to drain. Mix with it four eggs 
 well beaten up, half a pound of butter, half a pint of 
 cream, six ounces of sugar, a nutmeg grated, and a 
 glass of brandy or ratiiia water. Beat them all well to- 
 gether, then put them into raised crusts, and bake 
 them in a moderate oven. 
 
 Almond Cheesecakes. 
 
 Take four ounces of sweet almonds, blanch them, 
 and put them into cold water ; then beat them in a 
 marble mortar, or wooden bowl, with some rose-wa- 
 ter. Put to it four ounces of sugar, and the yolks of 
 four eggs beat fine. Work it in the mortar, or bowl, 
 till it becomes white and frothy, and then make a rich 
 puff-paste as follows : take half a pound of flour, a 
 quarter of a pound of butter, rub a little of the butter 
 into the flour, mix it stiff with a little cold water, and 
 then roll your paste straight out. Strew on a little 
 flour, and lay over it, in thin bits, one third of your 
 butter ; throw a little more flour over the bottom, and 
 do the like three different times. Then put the paste 
 into your tins, fill them, grate sugar over them, and 
 bake them in a gentle oven. 
 
 Or you may make Almond Cheesecakes thus : 
 
 Take four ounces of almonds, blanch them, and 
 beat them with a little orange-flower water ; add the 
 yolks of eight eggs, the rind of a large lemon grated, 
 
CUSTARDS. 
 
 221 
 
 half a pound of melted butter, and sugar to your taste ; 
 lay a thin puff-paste at the bottom of your tins, and 
 little slips across. Add about half a dozen bitter 
 almonds. 
 
 Lemon Cheesecakes. 
 
 Boil the peelings of two large lemons till they are 
 tender ; then pound them well in a mortar, with a quar- 
 ter of a pound of loaf sugar, the yolks of six eggs, half 
 a pound of fresh butter, and a little curd beat fine. 
 Pound and mix all together, lay a puff-paste in your 
 patty-pans, fill them half full, and bake them. 
 
 Orange cheesecakes must be done the same way; 
 but you must boil the peel in two or three waters to 
 deprive it of its bitter taste. 
 
 Citron Cheesecakes. 
 
 Beat the yolks of four eggs, and mix them with a 
 quart of boiled cream. When it is cold, set it on the 
 fire, and let it boil till it curds. Blanch some almonds, 
 beat them with orange-flower water, and put them 
 into cream with a few Naples biscuits, and green 
 citron shred fine. Sweeten it to your taste, and bake 
 them in cups. 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 CUSTARDS. 
 
 In making of custards, the greatest care must be 
 taken that your pan be well tinned ; and always re- 
 member to put a spoonful of water into it, to prevent 
 your ingredients sticking to the bottom. 
 
 Plain Custards. 
 
 Put a quart of good cream over a slow fire, with a 
 little cinnamon, and four ounces of sugar. When it has 
 boiled, take it off the fire, beat the yolks of eight eggs, 
 and put to them a spoonful of orange-flower water, to 
 prevent the cream from cracking. Stir them in by de- 
 grees as your cream cools, put the pan over a very slow 
 
222 
 
 CUSTARDS. 
 
 fire, stir it carefully one way till it is almost boiling, 
 and then pour it into cups. 
 
 Or you may make them in this manner : 
 
 Take a quart of new milk, sweeten to your taste, 
 beat up well the yolks of eight eggs and the whites of 
 four. Stir them into the milk, and bake it in china 
 basins. Or put them into a china dish, and pour 
 boiling water round them, till the water is better than 
 half way up their sides ; but take care the water does 
 not boil too fast, lest it should get into your cups, and 
 spoil your custards. 
 
 Baked Custards. 
 
 Boil a pint of cream with some mace and cinna- 
 mon, and when it is cold, take four yolks and two 
 whites of eggs, a little rose and orange-flower water 
 and sack, and nutmeg and sugar to your palate. Mix 
 them well together, and bake it in cups. 
 
 Rice Custards. 
 
 Put a blade of mace and a quartered nutmeg into 
 a quart of cream ; boil it, then strain it, and add to it 
 some whole rice boiled, and a little brandy. Sweeten 
 it to your palate, stir it over the fire till it thickens, 
 and serve it up in cups, or a dish. It may be used 
 either hot or cold. 
 
 Almond Custards. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of almonds, blanch and 
 beat them very fine, and then put them into a pint of 
 cream, with two spoonsful of rose-water. Sweeten 
 it to your palate, beat up the yolks of four eggs very 
 fine, and put it in. Stir all together one way over the 
 fire till it is thick, and then pour it into cups. 
 
 Lemon Custards. 
 
 Take half a pound of double-refined sugar, the 
 juice of two lemons, the rind of one pared very thin, 
 the inner rind of one boiled tender, and rubbed through 
 a sieve, and a pint of white wine. Let them boil for 
 some time, then take out the peel, and a little of the 
 
CAKES. 
 
 223 
 
 liquor, and set it to cool. Pour the rest into the dish 
 you intend for it, beat four yolks and two whites of 
 eggs, and mix them with your cool liquor. Strain 
 them into your dish, stir them well together, and set 
 them on a slow fire in boiling water. When it is 
 enough, grate the rind of a lemon on the top, and brown 
 it over with a hot salamander. This may be eaten 
 either hot or cold. 
 
 Orange Custards. 
 
 Boil very tender the rind of half a Seville orange, 
 and then beat it in a mortar till it is very fine. Put to 
 it a spoonful of the best brandy, the juice of a Seville 
 orange, four ounces of loaf sugar, and the yolks of four 
 eggs. Beat them all well together for ten minutes, and 
 then pour in by degrees a pint of boiling cream. Keep 
 beating them till they are cold, then put them in cus- 
 tard cups and set them in a dish of hot water. Let 
 them stand till they are set, then take them out, and 
 stick preserved orange on the top. These, like the for- 
 mer, may be served up either hot or cold. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 CAKES, BISCUITS, $c. 
 
 ONE very material matter to be attended to in 
 making these articles is, that all your ingredients are 
 ready at the time you are going to make them, and 
 that you do not leave them till your business is done ; 
 but be particularly observant with respect to the 
 eggs when beaten up, which, if left at any time, must 
 be again beaten, and by that means your cake will not 
 be so light as it otherwise would and ought to be. If 
 you use butter to your cakes, be careful in beating it 
 to a fine cream before you mix the sugar with it. 
 Cakes made with rice, seeds, or plums, are best baked 
 with wooden girths, as thereby the heat will penetrate 
 
224 
 
 CAKES. 
 
 into the middle, which will not be the case if baked in 
 pots or tins. The heat of the oven must be proportion- 
 ed to the size of the cake. 
 
 A Good Common Cake. 
 
 Take six ounces of ground rice, and the same quan- 
 tity of flour, the yolks and whites of nine eggs, half a 
 pound of lump sugar, pounded and sifted, and half an 
 ounce of carraway seeds. Mix these well together, and 
 bake it an hour in a quick oven. 
 
 A Rich Seed Cake. 
 
 Take a pound and a quarter of flour well dried, a 
 pound of butter, a pound of loaf sugar, beat and sifted, 
 eight eggs, two ounces of carraway seeds, one nutmeg 
 grated, and its weight in cinnamon. First beat your 
 butter to a cream, then put in your sugar ; beat the 
 whites of your eggs by themselves, and mix them with 
 your butter and sugar, and then beat up the yolks and 
 mix with the whites. Beat in your flour, spices, and 
 seed, a little before you send it aw 7 ay. Bake it two 
 hours in a quick oven. 
 
 A Pound Cake Plain. 
 
 Beat a pound of butter in an earthen pan, till it is 
 like a fine thick cream, then beat in nine whole eggs 
 till quite light. Put in a glass of brandy, a little lemon- 
 peel shred fine ; then w 7 ork in a pound and a quarter 
 of flour. Put it into your hoop or pan, and bake it for 
 one hour. 
 
 A pound plum cake is made the same, with putting 
 one pound and a half of clean washed currants, and 
 half a pound of candied lemon or orange-peel. 
 
 Cream Cakes. 
 
 Beat the whites of nine eggs to a stiff - froth, stir it 
 gently with a spoon, lest the froth should fall, and to 
 every white of an egg grate the rinds of two lemons. 
 Shake in gently a spoonful of double-refined sugar sift- 
 ed fine, lay a wet sheet of paper on a tin, and with a 
 spoon drop the froth in little lumps on it, at a small 
 
CAKES. 
 
 225 
 
 distance from each other. Sift a good quantity of 
 sugar over them, set them in the oven after the bread 
 is out, and close up the mouth of it, which will occasion 
 the froth to rise. As soon as they are coloured they 
 will be sufficiently baked ; then take them out, and 
 put two bottoms together; lay them on a sieve, and 
 set them to dry in a cool oven. 
 
 Wedding or Christening Cake. 
 
 Take three pounds and three quarters of butter, 
 four pounds and a half of flour, three pounds of sugar, 
 six pounds of currants, one pound and a half of can- 
 died lemon-peel, half a pound of almonds, half a pound 
 of citron, thirty eggs, and a piiit of brandy and milk. 
 Beat your butter in a pan till it is like thick cream, 
 but be sure not to make it too hot; then add your 
 eggs by degrees, till they are quite light; then beat in 
 half your flour, then put your milk and brandy in ; 
 grate the rinds of six lemons, and put in the rest of 
 your flour, currants, candied lemon-peel, almonds, and 
 half an ounce of spices, beat and sifted through a fine 
 sieve, such as cloves, mace, nutmegs, cinnamon, and 
 allspice ; only put half an ounce of the whole in. If 
 you bake the whole in one cake it will take three 
 hours, but must not be baked too quick. 
 
 Rice Cakes. 
 
 Beat the yolks of fifteen eggs for near half an hour 
 with a whisk ; then put to them ten ounces of loaf- 
 sugar sifted fine, and mix them well together. Then 
 put in half a pound of ground rice, a little orange- water 
 or brandy, and the rinds of two lemons grated. Then 
 put in the whites of seven eggs well beaten, and stir the 
 whole together for a quarter of an hour. Put them in 
 a hoop, and set them in a quick oven for half an hour, 
 and they will be properly done. 
 
 Gingerbread Cakes. 
 
 Take three pounds of flour, a pound of sugar, the 
 same quantity of butter rolled in very fine, two ounces 
 
 No. 10. 2F 
 
226 
 
 CAKES. 
 
 of beaten ginger, and a large nutmeg grated. Then 
 take a pound of treacle, a quarter of a pint of cream, 
 and make them warm together. Work up the bread 
 stiff, roll it out, and make it up into thin cakes. Cut 
 them out with a tea-cup or small glass, or roll them 
 round like nuts, and bake it in a slack oven on tin 
 Dlates. 
 
 Bath Cakes or Buns. 
 
 Take half a pound of butter, and one pound of 
 flour; rub the butter well into the flour; add five eggs, 
 and a tea-cup full of yeast. Set the whole well mixed 
 up before the fire to rise ; when sufficiently rose, add a 
 quarter of a pound of fine powder sugar, an ounce of 
 carraways well mixed in, then roll them out in little 
 cakes, and bake them on tins. They may either be eat 
 for breakfast or tea. 
 
 Shreivsbury Cakes. 
 
 Beat half a pound of butter to a fine cream, and 
 put in the same weight of flour, one egg, six ounces of 
 beaten and sifted loaf-sugar, and half an ounce of car- 
 raway seeds. Mix them with a paste, roll them thin, 
 and cut them round with a small glass, or little tins ; 
 prick them, lay them on sheets of tin ; and bake them 
 in a slow oven. 
 
 Portugal Cakes. 
 
 Mix into a pound of fine flour a pound of loaf-sugar 
 beat and sifted, and rub it into a pound of pure sweet 
 butter till it is thick like grated white bread ; then pul 
 to it two spoonsful of rose-water, two of sack, and ten 
 eggs, and then work them well with a whisk, and put 
 in eight ounces of currants. Butter the tin pans, fill 
 them but half full, and bake them. If made without 
 currants, they will keep half a year. 
 
 Saffron Cakes. 
 
 Take a quartern of fine flour, a pound and a half of 
 butter, three ounces of carraway seeds, six eggs well 
 beaten, a quarter of an ounce of cloves and mace fine 
 
CAKES. 
 
 227 
 
 beaten together, a little cinnamon pounded, a pound 
 of sugar, a little rose-water and saffron, a pint and a 
 half of yeast, and a quart of milk. Mix all together 
 lightly in the following manner : first boil your milk 
 and butter, then skim off the butter, and mix it with 
 your flour, and a little of the milk. Stir the yeast into 
 the rest, and strain it. Mix it with the flour, put in 
 vonr seeds and spice, rose-water, tincture of saftron, 
 sugar, and eggs. Beat it all well up, and bake it in a 
 hoop or pan well buttered. Send it to a quick oven, 
 and an hour and a half will do it. 
 
 Prussian Cakes. 
 
 Take half a pound of dried flour, a pound of bea- 
 ten and sifted sugar, the yolks and whites of seven 
 eggs beaten separately, the juice of a lemon, the 
 peels of two finely grated, and half a pound of almonds 
 beat fine with rose-water. When you have beat the 
 whites of the eggs to a froth, put in the yolks, and 
 every thing else except the flour, and beat them well 
 together. Shake in the flour just before you set it in 
 the oven, and be particularly careful to beat the whites 
 and yolks separately, otherwise your cake will be hea- 
 vy, and very unpleasant. 
 
 Queen Cakes. 
 
 T ake a pound of sugar, and beat and sift it; a 
 pound of well dried flour, a pound of butter, eight eggs, 
 and half a pound of currants washed and picked; grate 
 a nutmeg, and the same quantity of mace and cinna- 
 mon. Work your butter to a cream, and put in your 
 sugar ; beat the whites of your eggs near half an hour, 
 and mix them with your sugar and butter. Then beat 
 your yolks near half an hour, and put them to your 
 butter. Beat the whole well together, and when it is 
 ready for the oven put in your flour, spices, and cur- 
 rants. Sift a little sugar over them, and bake them 
 in tins. 
 
 Almond Cakes. 
 
 Take two ounces of butter, and one pound of sweet 
 
CAKES. 
 
 228 
 
 almonds, blanched and beat, with a little rose or orange 
 flower water, and the white of one egg ; half a pound 
 of sifted loaf sugar, eight yolks and three whites of 
 eggs, the juice of half a lemon and the rind grated. 
 Mix the whole well together, and either bake it in 
 one large pan or several small ones. 
 
 Little Plum Cakes. 
 
 Take half a pound of sugar finely powdered, two 
 pounds of flour well dried, four yolks and two whites 
 of eggs, half a pound of butter w ashed with rose- 
 water, six spoonsful of cream warmed, and a pound 
 and a half of currants unwashed, but picked and rub- 
 bed very clean in a cloth. Mix all well together, then 
 make them up into cakes, bake them in a hot oven, 
 and let them stand half an hour till they are coloured 
 on both sides. Then take down the oven lid, and let 
 them stand to soak. You must rub the butter w ell 
 into the flour, then the eggs and cream, and then the 
 currants. 
 
 Ratifia Cakes. 
 
 First blanch, and then beat half a pound of sweet 
 almonds, and the same quantity of bitter almonds in 
 fine orange, rose, or ratifia water, to keep the almonds 
 from oiling. Take a pound of fine sugar pounded and 
 sifted, and mix it with your almonds. Have ready the 
 whites of four eggs well beaten, and mix them lightly 
 with the almonds and sugar. Put it into a preserving- 
 pan, and set it over a moderate fire. Keep stirring 
 it one way until it is pretty hot, and, w T hen a little cool, 
 form it in small rolls, and cut it into thin cakes. Dip 
 your hands in flour, and shake them on them ; give 
 each a light tap with your finger, and put them on su- 
 gar papers. Sift a little sugar on them before you put 
 them into the oven, which must be quite slack. 
 
 Apricot Cakes. 
 
 Take a pound of ripe apricots, scald and peel them, 
 and, as soon as you find the skin will come off, take 
 out the stones. Beat the fruit in a mortar to a pulp ; 
 
CAKES. 
 
 229 
 
 then boil half a pound of double-refined sugar, with a 
 spoonful of water, skim it well, and put to it the pulp 
 of your apricots. Let it simmer a quarter of an hour 
 over a slow fire, and keep stirring it all the time. 
 Then pour it into shallow flat glasses, turn them out 
 upon glass plates, put them into a stove, and turn them 
 once a day till they are dry. 
 
 Orange Cakes. 
 
 Quarter what quantity you please of Seville 
 oranges that have very good rinds, and boil them in 
 two or three waters till they are tender, and the bitter- 
 ness gone off. Skim them, and then lay them on a 
 clean napkin to dry. Take all the skins and seeds 
 out of the pulp with a knife, shred the peels fine, put 
 them to the pulp, weigh them, and put rather more 
 than their weight of fine sugar into a pan, with just as 
 much water as will dissolve it. Boil it till it becomes 
 a perfect sugar, and then by degrees, put in your 
 orange-peels and pulp. Stir them well before you set 
 them on the fire ; boil it very gently till it looks clear 
 and thick, and then put them into flat-bottomed glas- 
 ses. Set them in a stove, and keep them in a constant 
 and moderate heat ; and when they are candied on the 
 top, turn them out upon glasses. 
 
 Lemon Cakes. 
 
 Take the whites of ten eggs, put to them three 
 spoonsful of rose or orange-flower water, and beat 
 them an hour with a whisk. Then put in a pound of 
 beaten and sifted sugar, and grate into it the rind of a 
 lemon. When it is well mixed put in the juice of half 
 a lemon, and the yolks of ten eggs beat smooth. — 
 Just before you put it into the oven, stir in three quar- 
 ters of a pound of flour, butter your pan, put it into a 
 moderate oven, and an hour will bake it. 
 
 Cur ram 1 , Cakes. 
 
 Dry well before a fire a pound and a half of fine 
 flour, take a pound of butter, half a pound of fine loaf 
 
230 
 
 BISCUITS. 
 
 sugar well beaten and sifted, four yolks of eggs, four 
 spoonsful of rose-water, the same of sack, a little mace, 
 and a nutmeg grated. Beat the eggs well, and put 
 them to the rose-water and sack. Then put to it the 
 sugar and butter. Work them all together, and then 
 strew in the currants and flour, having taken care to 
 have them ready warmed for mixing. You may make 
 six or eight cakes of them; but mind to bake them of 
 a fine brown, and pretty crisp 
 
 J Vhigs. 
 
 Put half a pint of warm milk to three quarters of 
 a pound of fine flour, and mix in it two or three spoons- 
 ful of light barm. Cover it up, and set it before the 
 fire an hour, in order to make it rise. Work into the 
 paste four ounces of sugar, and the same quantity of 
 butter. Make it into cakes or whigs, with as little 
 flour as possible, and a few seeds, and bake them in a 
 quick oven. 
 
 Common Biscuits. 
 
 Beat eight eggs well up together, and mix with 
 them a pound of sifted sugar with the rind of a lemon 
 grated. Whisk it about till it looks light, and then 
 put in a pound of flour, with a little rose-water. Su- 
 gar them over, and bake them on tins, or on papers. 
 
 Sponge Biscuits. 
 
 Beat the yolks of twelve eggs for half an hour ; then 
 put in a pound and a half of sugar beat and sifted, 
 and whisk it till you see it rise in bubbles. Then beat 
 the whites to a strong froth, and whisk them well 
 with your sugar and yolks. Work in fourteen ounces 
 of flour, with the rinds of two lemons grated. Bake 
 them in tin moulds buttered, and in a quick oven. — 
 They will take about half an hour baking; but before 
 you put them into the oven, remember to sift pounded 
 sugar over them. 
 
 Spanish Biscuits. 
 
 Take the yolks of eight eggs, beat them half an 
 hour, and then put to them eight spoonsful of sifted 
 
231 
 
 BISCUITS, iS’C. 
 
 sugar. Then beat the whites to a strong froth, and 
 work them well with the yolks and sugar. Put in 
 four spoonsful of flour, and a little lemon-peel cut fine. 
 Mix all well together, and bake them on paper. 
 
 Drop Biscuits. 
 
 Beat up the whites of six eggs, and the yolks of 
 ten, with a spoonful of rose-water, and then put in ten 
 ounces of beaten and sifted loaf sugar. Whisk them 
 well for half an hour, and then add an ounce of car- 
 raway-seeds crushed a little, and six ounces of fine 
 flour. Mix the whole well together, drop them on 
 papers, and bake them in a moderately heated oven. 
 
 Lemon Biscuits. 
 
 Take the yolks of ten eggs, and the whites of five, 
 and beat them well together, with four spoonsful of 
 orange-flower water, till they froth up. Then put in 
 a pound of loaf sugar sifted, beat it one way for half 
 an hour or more, put in half a pound of flour, with the 
 raspings of two lemons, and the pulp of a small one. 
 Butter your tin, and bake it in a quick oven ; but do 
 not stop up the mouth at first, for fear it should scorch. 
 Dust it with sugar before you put it into the oven. 
 
 Macaroons. 
 
 Bl anch and beat fine a pound of sweet almonds, 
 and put to them a pound of sugar and a little rose- 
 water, to keep them from oiling. Then beat the 
 whites of seven eggs to a froth, put them in, and work 
 the whole well together. Drop them on wafer-paper, 
 grate sugar over them, and put them into the oven. 
 
 Green Caps. 
 
 Having gathered as many codlins as you want, 
 just before they are ripe, green them in the same man- 
 ner as for preserving. Then rub them over with a 
 little oiled butter, grate double-refined sugar over them, 
 and set them in the oven till they look bright, and 
 SDarkle like frost. Then take them out, and put them 
 
232 
 
 BISCUITS, $C. 
 
 into a china dish. Make a very fine custard, and pour 
 it round them. Stick single flowers in every apple, 
 and serve them up. 
 
 Black Caps. 
 
 Take out the cores, and cut into halves twelve 
 large apples. Place them on a tin patty-pan as close 
 as they can lie, with the flat side downwards. Squeeze 
 a lemon into two spoonsful of orange-flower water, and 
 pour it over them. Shred some lemon-peel fine, and 
 throw over them, and grate fine sugar over all. Set 
 them in a quick oven, and half an hour will do them. 
 When you send them to table, strew fine sugar all over 
 the dish. 
 
 Snow Balls. 
 
 Pare and take out the cores of five large baking 
 apples, and fill the holes with orange or quince marma- 
 lade. Then make some good hot paste, roll your ap- 
 ples in it, and make your crust of an equal thickness. 
 Put them in a tin dripping-pan, bake them in a mo- 
 derate oven, and when you take them out, make icing 
 for them, directions for which you will find at the close 
 of the second section in the next chapter. Let your 
 icing be about a quarter of an inch thick, and set them 
 at a good distance from the fire till they are hardened ; 
 but take care you do not let them brown. Put one 
 in the middle of a dish, and the others round it. 
 
233 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 THE ART OF COJYFECTIOJYARY. 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 THE METHOD OF PREPARING SUGARS AND 
 
 COLOURS. 
 
 THE first process in the art of confectionary is that 
 of clarifying sugars, which requires great care and 
 attention, and must be done according to the following 
 direction : 
 
 Break the white of an egg into your preserving-pan, 
 put to it four quarts of water, and beat it up to a froth 
 with a whisk. Then put in twelve pounds of sugar, 
 mix all together, and set it over the fire. When it 
 boils put in a little cold water, and in this manner 
 proceed as many times as may be necessary, till the 
 scum appears thick on the top. Then remove it from 
 the fire, and when it is settled take off the scum, and 
 pass it through a straining- bag. If the sugar should 
 not appear very fine, give it another boil before you 
 strain it. — This is the first operation, having done 
 which you may proceed to clarify your sugar to either 
 of the following degrees : 
 
 1. Smooth or Candy Sugar . — After having gone 
 through the first process, as before directed, put what 
 quantity you may have occasion for over the fire, and 
 let it boil till it is smooth. This you may know by 
 dipping your skimmer into the sugar, and then touch- 
 ing it between your fore-finger and thumb, and im- 
 mediately on opening them, you will observe a small 
 thread drawn between, which will immediately break, 
 and remain on a drop on your thumb, which will be a 
 sign of its being in some degree of smoothness. Then 
 give it another boiling, and it will draw into a larger 
 string, when it will have acquired the first degree, 
 from whence we proceed to, 
 
 No. 10. 2 G 
 
CONFECTIONARY. 
 
 22 \ 
 
 2. Bloom Sugar . — In this degree of refining sugar, 
 yon must boil it longer than in the former process, and 
 then dip your skimmer in, shaking off what sugar you 
 can into the pan then blow with your mouth strongly 
 through the holes, and if certain bladders, or bubbles, 
 go through, it will be a proof that it has acquired the 
 second degree. 
 
 3. Feathered Sugar . — To prove this degree, dip 
 the skimmer into the sugar when it has boiled longer 
 than in the former degrees. When you have so done, 
 first shake it over the pan, then give it a sudden flirt 
 behind you, and if it is enough, the sugar will fly off 
 like feathers. 
 
 4. Crackled Sugar . — Boil your sugar longer than 
 in the preceding degree ; then dip a stick into it, and 
 immediately put it into a pan of cold water, which you 
 must have by you for that purpose. Draw off the 
 sugar that hangs to the stick into the water, and if it 
 becomes hard, and snaps, it has acquired the proper 
 degree ; but if otherwise, you must boil it again till it 
 answers that trial. Be particularly careful that the 
 water you use for this purpose is perfectly cold, other- 
 wise you will be greatly deceived. 
 
 5. Carmel Sugars . — To obtain the last degree, 
 your sugar must boil longer than in either of the former 
 operations. You must prove it by dipping a stick, first 
 into the sugar, and then into cold water; but this you 
 must observe, that when it comes to the carmel height, 
 it will, the moment it touches the water, snap like 
 glass, which is the highest and last degree of refining 
 sugar. When you boil this, take care that your fire is 
 not too fierce, lest it should, by flaming up the sides of 
 the pan, cause the sugar to burn, discolour it v and 
 thereby destroy all your labour. 
 
 Having thus described the various degrees of refin- 
 ing sugar, we shall now point out the method of pre- 
 paring those colours with which they may be tinged, 
 according to the fancy, and the different purposes for 
 which they are to be used. 
 
CONFECTIONARY. 
 
 235 
 
 Red Colour. 
 
 To make this colour, boil an ounce of cochineal in 
 half a pint of water, for above five minutes ; then add 
 half an ounce of cream of tartar, and half an ounce of 
 pounded alum, and boil the whole on a slow fire about 
 as long again. In order to know if it is done, dip a 
 pen into it, write on white paper, and if it show's the 
 colour clear, it is sufficient. Then take it off the fire, 
 add two ounces of sugar, and let it settle. Pour it 
 clear off, and keep it in a bottle well stopped for use. 
 
 Blue Colour. 
 
 This colour is only for present use, and must be 
 made thus : put a little warm water into a plate, and 
 rub an indigo stone in it till the colour is come to the 
 tint you would have it. The more you rub it, the 
 higher the colour will be. 
 
 Yellow Colour. 
 
 This is done by pouring a little water into a plate, 
 and rubbing it with a bit of gamboge. It may also 
 be done with yellow 7 lily thus : take the heart of the 
 flower, infuse the colour w r ith milkwvarm water, and 
 preserve it in a bottle well stopped. 
 
 Green Colour. 
 
 Trim the leaves of some spinach, boil them about 
 half a minute in a little water, then strain it clear off, 
 and it will be fit for use. 
 
 Any alteration may be made in these colours, by 
 mixing to wdiat shade you think proper; but on these 
 occasions taste and fancy must be your guide. 
 
 Devices in Sugar. 
 
 STEEPgum-tragacanth in rose- water, and with some 
 double-refined sugar make it into a paste. Colour it 
 to your fancy, and make up your device in such forms 
 as you may think proper. You may have moulds 
 made in various shapes for this purpose, and your de- 
 vices w T ill be pretty ornaments placed on the top of iced 
 cakes. 
 
236 
 
 CREAMS. 
 
 Sugar of Roses in various figures. 
 
 Chip off the white part of some rose-buds, and drv 
 them in the sun. Pound an ounce of them very fine; 
 then take a pound of loaf-sugar, wet it in some rose- 
 water, and boil it to a candy height ; then put in your 
 powder of roses, and the juice of a lemon. Mix all well 
 together, then put it on a pie-plate, and cut it into lo- 
 zenges, or make it into any kind of shapes or figures 
 your fancy may draw. If you want to use them as 
 ornaments for a desert, you may gild or colour them 
 to your taste. 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 CREAMS and JAMS. 
 
 Orange Cream. 
 
 Pare off the rind of a Seville orange very fine, and 
 then squeeze out the juice of four oranges. Put them 
 into a stew-pan, with a pint of water, and eight ounces 
 of sugar ; mix with them the whites of five eggs well 
 beat, and set the whole over the fire. Stir it one wav 
 till it becomes thick and white, then strain it through 
 a gauze, and keep stirring it till it is cold. Then beat 
 the yolks of five eggs very fine, and put it into your 
 pan with some cream and the other articles. Stir it 
 over a slow fire till it is ready to boil, and pour it into 
 a basin, and having stirred it till it is quite cold, put it 
 into your glasses. 
 
 Lemon Cream. 
 
 Cut off the rinds of two lemons as thin as you can, 
 then squeeze out the juice of three, and add to them a 
 pint of spring water. Mix with them the whites of 
 six eggs beat very fine, sweeten it to your taste, and 
 keep stirring it till it thickens, but be careful it does 
 not boil. Strain it through a cloth, then mix with it 
 the yolks of six eggs well beat up, and put it over the 
 fire to thicken. Then pour it into a bowl, and when 
 it is thoroughly cold, put it into your glasses. 
 
CREAMS. 
 
 237 
 
 Hartshorn Cream. 
 
 Take four ounces of the shavings of hartshorn, boil 
 them in three pints of water till it is reduced to half a 
 pint, and then run it through a jelly-bag. Put to it a 
 pint of cream, and four ounces of fine sugar, and let it 
 just boil up. Put it into jelly- glasses, let it stand till 
 it is cold, and then, by dipping your glasses into scald- 
 ing water, it will slip out whole. Then stick them all 
 over with slices of almonds cut lengthways. It is gene- 
 rally eaten with white wine and sugar. 
 
 Burnt Cream. 
 
 Take a little clarified sugar, put it into your sugar- 
 pan, and let it boil till it colours in the pan ; then pour 
 in your cream, stirring it all the time till the sugar is 
 dissolved. The cream may be made in the following 
 manner : to a pint of cream take five eggs, a quarter 
 of a pound of fine sugar, and a spoonful of orange-flower 
 water; set it over the fire, stirring it till it is thick; 
 but be sure it does not boil, or else it will curdle. 
 
 Burnt Cream another Way. 
 
 Boil a pint of cream with sugar and a little lemon- 
 peel shred fine ; and then beat up the yolks of six, and 
 the whites of four eggs separately. When your cream 
 has got cool, put in your eggs, with a spoonful of orange- 
 flower water, and one of fine flour. Set it over the fire, 
 keep stirring it till it is thick, and then pour it into a 
 dish. When it is cold, sift a quarter of a pound of fine 
 sugar all over it, and hold a hot salamander over it till 
 it is of a nice light brown colour. 
 
 Blanched Cream. 
 
 Take a quart of very thick cream, and mix with it 
 some fine sugar and orange-flower water. Boil it, and 
 beat up the whites of twenty eggs, with a little cold 
 cream ; strain it, and when the cream is upon the boil, 
 pour in the eggs, and keep stirring it till it comes to a 
 thick curd. Then take it up, and strain it through a 
 nair sieve ; beat it well with a spoon till it is cold, and 
 then put it into a dish. 
 
238 
 
 CREAMS. 
 
 Cream a-la Franchipane. 
 
 Put two spoonsful of flour into a stew-pan, with 
 some grated lemon-peel, some dried orange-flowers 
 shred fine, and a little salt; beat up the yolks and 
 whites of six eggs, with a pint of milk, and a bit of 
 sugar ; make it boil, and stir it over the fire half an 
 hour : when cold, use it to make a franchipane pie or 
 tartlets, for which nothing more is necessary than to 
 put it upon a puff-paste, and when it is cold glaze it 
 with sugar. You may put in a few ratifia biscuits to 
 give it a flavour. 
 
 Whipt Cream. 
 
 Take the whites of eight eggs, a quart of thick 
 cream, and half a pint of sack. Mix them together, 
 and sweeten it to your taste with double-refined sugar. 
 You may perfume it, if you please, with a little musk 
 or ambergris tied in a rag, and steeped a little in the 
 cream. Whip it up with a whisk, and some lemon-peel 
 tied in the middle of the whisk. Take the froth with 
 a spoon, and lay it in your glasses or basins. This put 
 over fine tarts has a pretty appearance. 
 
 Spanish Cream. 
 
 Take three spoonsful of flour of rice sifted very fine, 
 the yolks of three eggs, three spoonsful of water, and 
 two of orange-flower water. Then put to them one 
 pint of cream, and set it upon a good fire ; keep stirring 
 it till it is of a proper thickness, and then pour it into 
 cups. 
 
 Steeple Cream. 
 
 T ake five ounces of hartshorn and two ounces of 
 isinglass, and put them into a stone bottle; fill it up 
 with fair water to the neck ; put in a small quantity 
 of gum-arabic and gum-dragon ; then tie up the bottle 
 very close, and set it into a pot of water, with hay at 
 the bottom. When it has stood six hours, take it out, 
 and let it stand an hour before you open it ; then strain 
 it, and it will be a strong jelly. Take a pound of 
 blanched almonds, beat them very fine, mix it with a 
 pint of thick cream, and let it stand a little ; then strain 
 
CREAMS. 
 
 239 
 
 it out, and mix it with a pound of jelly ; set it over the 
 tire till it is scalding hot, and sweeten it to your taste 
 with double-refined sugar. Then take it off, put in a 
 little amber, and pour it into small high gallipots. 
 When it is cold, turn them, and lay cold cream about 
 them in heaps. Be careful it does not boil when you 
 put in the cream. 
 
 Barley Cream. 
 
 Take a small quantity of pearl barley, boil it in 
 milk and water till it is tender, and then strain off the 
 liquor: Put your barley into a quart of cream, and let 
 
 it boil a little. Take the whites of five eggs, and the 
 yolk of one, and beat them up with a spoonful of fine 
 flour, and two spoonsful of orange-flower water. Then 
 take the cream off the fire, mix in the eggs by degrees, 
 and set it over the fire again to thicken. Sweeten it 
 to your taste, and pour it into basins for use. 
 
 Pistachio Cream. 
 
 Take out the kernels of half a pound of pistachio 
 nuts, and beat them in a mortar with a spoonful of 
 brandy. Put them into a pan with a pint of good 
 cream, and the yolks of two eggs beat fine. Stir it 
 gently over the fire till it grows thick, and then put it 
 into a china soup-plate. When it is cold, stick it over 
 with small pieces of the nuts, and send it to table. 
 
 Tea Cream. 
 
 Boil a quarter of an ounce of fine hyson tea with 
 half a pint of milk ; then strain it, and put in half a pint 
 of cream, and two spoonsful of rennet. Set it over 
 some hot embers in the dish you intend to send to table, 
 and cover it with a tin plate. When it is thick it will 
 be done, and fit to serve up. 
 
 Coffee Cream. 
 
 Boil three ounces of coffee with a pint and a half 
 of water, and when it has boiled up four or five times, 
 let it settle, and pour it off clear. Put it into a stew- 
 pan, with a pint of milk sweetened to your taste, and 
 
240 
 
 CREAMS. 
 
 let it boil till there remains no more than sufficient for 
 the size of your dish : beat up the yolks of six eggs 
 with a little flour, and then add some cream ; strain it 
 through a sieve into your stew-pan, and thicken it over 
 the fire. Serve it up, after passing a hot salamander, 
 not too hot, over it. 
 
 Chocolate Cream. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of the best chocolate, 
 and having scraped it fine, put to it as much water as 
 will dissolve it. Then beat it half an hour in a mor- 
 tar, and put in as much fine sugar as will sweeten it, 
 and a pint and a half of cream. Mill it, and as the 
 froth rises, lay it on a sieve. Put the remainder of 
 your cream in posset-glasses, and lay the frothed cream 
 upon them. 
 
 Chocolate Cream another Way. 
 
 Scrape two squares of chocolate, and put them 
 into a stew-pan, with four ounces of sugar, a pint of 
 milk, and half a pint of cream ; let it boil till a third 
 is consumed, and when nearly cold, beat up the yolks 
 of seven eggs with it, and strain the whole through a 
 sieve. Set your cream over the fire to thicken, but it 
 must not boil. 
 
 Pompadour Cream. 
 
 Beat the whites of five eggs to a strong froth, then 
 put them into a pan, with two spoonsful of orange- 
 flower water, and two ounces of sugar. Stir it gently 
 for three or four minutes, then put it into your dish, and 
 pour melted batter over it. This must be served up 
 hot, and makes a pretty corner dish for a second course 
 at dinner. 
 
 Ratijia Cream. 
 
 Take six large laurel leaves, and boil them in a 
 quart of thick milk with a little ratifia, and when it has 
 boiled throw away the leaves. Beat the yolks of four 
 eggs with a little cold cream, and sweeten it with sugar 
 to your taste. Then thicken the cream with your 
 eggs, and set it over the fire again, but do not let it boil. 
 Keep stirring it all the time one way, and then pour it 
 into china dishes. This must be served up cold. 
 
241 
 
 CREAMS, 4»C. 
 
 Raspberry Cream. 
 
 Rub a quart of raspberries, or raspberry-jam, 
 through a hair sieve, to take out the seeds, and then 
 mix it well with cream. Sweeten it with sugar to 
 your taste ; then put it into a stone jug, and raise a 
 froth with a chocolate mill. As your froth rises, take 
 it off with a spoon, and lay it upon a hair sieve. When 
 you have got as much froth as you want, put what 
 cream remains into a deep china dish, or punch-bowl, 
 pour your frothed cream upon it as high as it will lie on. 
 
 Ice Cream. 
 
 To a pound of preserved fruit, which may be of 
 what kind you choose, add a quart of good cream, the 
 juice of two lemons squeezed into it, and some sugar 
 to your palate. Let the whole be rubbed through a 
 line hair sieve, and if raspberry, strawberry, or any red 
 fruit, you must add a little cochineal to heighten the 
 colour: have your freezing pot nice and clean, and 
 put your cream into it, cover it, and put it into your 
 tub with ice beat small, and some salt ; turn the freez- 
 ing pot quick, and as the cream sticks to the sides 
 scrape it down with your ice spoon, and so on till it is 
 froze. The more the cream is worked with the spoon 
 the smoother and better flavoured it will be. After it 
 is well froze, take it out, and put it into ice shapes 
 with fresh salt and ice ; when you serve it, carefully 
 wash the shapes, for fear any salt should adhere to 
 them ; dip them in water luke-warm, and send them 
 up to table. 
 
 Fruit Ices may be made either with water or cream. 
 If water, two pounds of fruit, a pint of spring water, 
 a pint of clarified sugar, and the juice of two lemons. 
 
 Chocolate, coffee, ginger, vanilla, biscuit, and 
 noyeau, are all custard ices, and must be set over the 
 fire like set creams, and froze like the others when the 
 custard is cold. Observe, no flour must be used in set 
 creams for ices. 
 
 No. n. 2 H 
 
242 
 
 JAMS. 
 
 Raspberry Jam. 
 
 Let your raspberries be thoroughly ripe, and quite 
 dry. Mash them fine, and strew them in their own 
 weight of loaf-sugar, and half their weight of the juice 
 of white currants. Boil them half an hoar over a clear 
 slow fire, skim them well, and put them into pots, or 
 glasses. Tie them down with brandy papers, and keep 
 them dry. Strew on the sugar as soon as you can after 
 the berries are gathered, and in order to preserve their 
 fine flavour, do not let them stand long before you boil 
 them. 
 
 Strawberry Jam. 
 
 Bruise very fine some scarlet strawberries gather- 
 ed wdien quite ripe, and put to them a little juice of 
 red currants. Beat and sift their weight in sugar, 
 strew it over them, and put them into a preserving- 
 pan. Set them over a clear slow fire, skim them, 
 boil them twenty minutes, and then put them into 
 glasses. 
 
 Apricot Jam. 
 
 Get some of the ripest apricots you can. Pare and 
 cut them thin, and then infuse them in an earthen pan 
 till tender and dry. To every pound and a half of 
 apricots, put a pound of double-refined sugar, and three 
 spoonsful of water. Boil your sugar to a caudv height, 
 and then put it upon your apricots. Stir them over a 
 slow fire till they look clear and thick, but be careful 
 they do not boil ; then pom - them into your glasses. 
 
 Gooseberry Jam. 
 
 Cut and pick out the seeds of fine large green 
 gooseberries, gathered when they are full grown but 
 not ripe. Put them into a pan of water, green them, 
 and put them into a sieve to drain. Then beat them 
 in a marble mortar, with their weight in sugar. Take 
 a quart of gooseberries, boil them to a mash in a quart 
 of water, squeeze them, and to every pint of liquor 
 put a pound of fine loaf-sugar. Then boil and skim it, 
 put in your green gooseberries, and having boiled 
 
JELLIES. 243 
 
 them till they are very thick, clear, and of a pretty 
 green, put them into glasses. 
 
 Black Currant Jam. 
 
 Gather your currants when they are thoroughly 
 ripe and dry, and pick them clean from the stalks. 
 Then bruise them well in a bowl, and to every two 
 pounds of currants, put a pound and a half of loaf-sugar 
 finely beaten. Put them into a preserving-pan, bail 
 them half an hour, skim and stir them all the time, and 
 then put them into pots. 
 
 Icings for Cakes, or various Articles in Confec- 
 tionary. 
 
 Take a pound of double-refined sugar pounded and 
 sifted fine, and mix it with the whites of twenty-four 
 eggs in an earthen pan. Whisk them well for two or 
 three hours till it looks white and thick, and then, with 
 a broad thin board, or bunch of feathers, spread it all 
 over the tops and sides of the cake. Set it at a proper 
 distance before a clear fire, and keep turning it con- 
 tinually, that it may not lose its colour ; but a cool oven 
 is best, where an hour will harden it. 
 
 Or you may make it thus : 
 
 Beat the whites of three eggs to a strong froth : 
 bruise a pound of Jordan almonds very fine with rose- 
 water, and mix your almonds with the eggs lightly to- 
 gether. Then beat a pound of loaf-sugar very fine, 
 and put it in by degrees. When your cake (or what- 
 ever article it may be) is enough, lay on your icing. 
 
 SECT. III. 
 
 JELLIES, SYLLABUBS, &c. 
 
 Calf’s Feet Jelly. 
 
 Boil two calf’s feet well cleaned in a gallon of 
 water till it is reduced to a quart, and then pour it into 
 a pan. When it is cold, skim off all the fat, and take 
 
244 
 
 JELLIES. 
 
 the jelly up clean. Leave what settling may remain 
 at the bottom, and put the jelly into a saucepan, with 
 a pint of mountain wine, half a pound of loaf-sug&r 
 and the juice of four lemons. Add to these the whites 
 of six or eight eggs well beat up ; stir all w 7 ell together, 
 put it on the fire, and let it boil a few minutes. Pour 
 it into a large flannel bag, and repeat it till it runs 
 clear ; then have ready a large china basin, and put 
 into it some lemon-peel cut as thin as possible. Let 
 the jelly run into the basin, and the lemon-peel will 
 not only give it a pleasing colour, but a grateful flavour. 
 Fill your glasses, and it will be fit for use. 
 
 Hartshorn Jelly. 
 
 Boil half a pound of hartshorn in three quarts of 
 water over a gentle fire, till it becomes a jelly. If you 
 take out a little to cool, and it hangs on a spoon, it is 
 enough. Strain it while it is hot, put it into a well-tin- 
 ned saucepan, and add to it a pint of Rhenish wine, 
 and a quarter of a pound of loaf-sugar. Beat the whites 
 of four eggs or more to a froth, stir it altogether that 
 the whites may mix well with the jelly, and pour it in 
 as if you were cooling it. Let it boil two or three 
 minutes, then put in the juice of three or four lemons, 
 and let it boil a minute or two longer. When it is 
 finely curdled, and of a pure white colour, have ready 
 a swan-skin jelly-bag over a china basin, pour in your 
 jelly, and pour it back again till it is as clear as rock- 
 water ; then set a very clean china basin under, have 
 your glasses as clean as possible, and with a clean 
 spoon fill them. Have ready some thin rind of lemons, 
 and when you have filled half your glasses, throw 7 your 
 peel into the basin. When the jelly is all run out of 
 the bag, w 7 ith a clean spoon fill the rest of the glasses, 
 and they will look of a fine amber colour. Put in le- 
 mon and sugar to your palate, but remember to make 
 it pretty sweet, otherwise it will not be palatable. 
 No fixed rule can be given for putting in the ingredients, 
 which can only be regulated according to taste and 
 fancy. 
 
JELLIES. 
 
 245 
 
 Orange Jelly. 
 
 Take three ounces of isinglass, and a quart of water, 
 let it boil till the isinglass is all dissolved, then put in 
 three quarters of a pound of fine sugar, the juice of 
 four lemons, and twelve oranges if small, if large eight ; 
 let the rinds of six of the oranges be rubbed on some 
 sugar, and scraped into your isinglass while boiling ; 
 when done, strain it through a fine lawn sieve; if you 
 have any dried crocus flowers to boil in your jelly it 
 will give it a fine yellow tinge, and leave no taste. 
 
 Fruit in Jelly. 
 
 Put into a basin half a pint of clear calf's feet jelly, 
 and when it is set and stiff, lay in three fine peaches, 
 and a bunch of grapes with the stalk upwards. Put 
 over them a few vine leaves, and then fill up your bowl 
 with jelly. Let it stand till the next day, and then 
 set your basin to the brim in hot water. When you 
 perceive it gives way from the basin, lay your dish over 
 it, turn your jelly carefully out, and serve it to table. 
 
 Blanc Mange. 
 
 There are various methods of making this jelly, 
 hut the best, and those most usually practised are three ; 
 the first of which is termed green, and is prepared from 
 isinglass in the following manner : 
 
 Having dissolved your isinglass, put to it two ounces 
 of sweet, and the same quantity of bitter almonds, with 
 some of the juice of spinach to make it green, and a 
 spoonful of French brandy. Set it over a stove fire in 
 a saucepan, and let it remain till it is almost ready to 
 boil ; then strain it through a gauze sieve, and when it 
 grows thick, put it into a melon mould, let lie till the 
 next day, and then turn it out. You may garnish it 
 with red and white flowers. 
 
 The second method of preparing this jelly is also from 
 isinglass, and must be done thus : put into a quart of 
 water an ounce of isinglass, and let it boil till it is re- 
 duced to a pint ; then put in the whites of four eggs, 
 with two spoonsful of rice water, and sweeten it to 
 
246 
 
 JELLIES. 
 
 your taste. Run it through a jelly-bag, and then put 
 to it two ounces of sweet and one ounce of bitter al- 
 monds. Give them a scald in your jelly, and then run 
 them through a hair sieve. Then put it into a china 
 bowl, and the next day turn it out. Garnish with 
 flowers or green leaves, and stick all over the top 
 blanched almonds cut lengthways. 
 
 The third sort of blanc mange is called clear, and is 
 prepared thus : skim off the fat, and strain a quart of 
 strong calf’s feet jelly. Then beat the whites of four 
 eggs, and put them to your jelly. Set it over the fire, 
 and keep stirring it till it boils. Then pour it into a 
 jelly-bag, and run it through several times till it is clear. 
 Beat an ounce of sweet and the same quantity of bit- 
 ter almonds to a paste, with a spoonful of rose-water 
 squeezed through a cloth. Then mix it with the jelly, 
 and add to it three spoonsful of very good cream. Set 
 it again over the fire, and keep stirring it till it almost 
 boils. Pour it into a bowl, stir it very often till it is 
 almost cold, then wet your moulds, and fill them. 
 
 Jaunmange. 
 
 Take three quarters of an ounce of isinglass and 
 half a pint of water boiled together till the isinglass is 
 just dissolved, then put in the rind and juice of a lemon, 
 half a pint of mountain wine, and sugar to your palate ; 
 after it is all boiled together, let it stand till almost 
 cold, then add four yolks of eggs. Put it again on the 
 fire, till it almost boils, then strain it through a fine 
 lawn sieve, and keep stirring it till cold. 
 
 Black Currant Jelly. 
 
 Let your currants be thoroughly ripe, and quite 
 dry; strip them clear from the stalks, and put them 
 into a large stew-pot. To every ten quarts of currants 
 put one quart of water. Tie paper close over them, 
 and set them for two hours in a cool oven. Then 
 squeeze them through a very fine cloth, and to every 
 quart of juice add a pound and a half of loaf-sugar 
 broken into small pieces. Stir it gently till the sugar 
 
JELLIES. 
 
 24? 
 
 is melted, and when it boils, take off the scum quite 
 clean. Let it boil pretty quick over a clear fire, till it 
 jellies, which is known by dipping the skimmer into 
 your jelly and holding it in the air ; when it hangs to 
 the spoon in a drop, it is done. You may also put 
 some into a plate to try, and if there comes a thick 
 skin, it is done. If the jelly is boiled too long it will 
 lose its flavour, and shrink very much. Pour it into 
 pots, cover them with brandy papers, and keep them 
 in a dry place. Red and white jelly is made in the 
 same manner. 
 
 Riband Jelly. 
 
 Take out the great bones of four calf’s feet, and 
 put the meat into a pot with ten quarts of water, three 
 ounces of hartshorn, the same quantity of isinglass, a 
 nutmeg quartered, and four blades of mace. Boil it 
 till it comes to two quarts, then strain it through a flan- 
 nel bag, and let it stand twenty-four hours. Then 
 scrape off all the fat from the top very clean, slice the 
 jelly, and put to it the whites of six eggs beaten to a 
 froth. Boil it a little, and strain it through a flannel 
 bag. Then run the jelly into little high glasses, and 
 run every colour as thick as your finger ; but observe, 
 that one colour must be thoroughly cold before you put 
 on another ; and that which you put on must be blood- 
 warm, otherwise they will mix together. You must 
 colour red with cochineal, green with spinach, yellow 
 with saffron, blue with syrup of violets, arid white with 
 thick cream. 
 
 Savoury Jelly. 
 
 Take some thin slices of lean veal and ham, and 
 put them into a stew-pan, with a carrot or turnip, and 
 two or three onions. Cover it, and let it sweat on a 
 slow fire till it is of a deep brown colour. Then put 
 to it a quart of very clear broth, some whole pepper, 
 mace, a little isinglass, and salt to your palate. Boil 
 it ten minutes, then strain it, skim off all the fat, and 
 put to it the whites of three eggs. Then run it seve- 
 ral times through a jelly-bag till it is perfectly clear, 
 and pour it into your glasses. 
 
248 
 
 SYLLABUBS. 
 
 Common Syllabubs. 
 
 Put a pint of cider and a bottle of strong beer in- 
 to a large bowl, grate in a small nutmeg, and sweeten 
 
 it to vour taste. Then milk from the cow as much 
 •/ 
 
 milk as will make a strong froth. Let it stand an hour, 
 and then strew over it a few currants well washed, 
 picked, and plumed before the fire ; and it will be fit 
 for use. 
 
 Whipt Syllabub . 
 
 Rub a lump of loaf sugar on the outside of alemon, 
 and put it into a pint of thick cream, and sweeten it 
 to your taste. Then squeeze in the juice of a lemon, 
 and add a glass of Madeira wine, or French brandy. 
 Mill it to a froth with a chocolate-mill, take off the 
 froth as it rises, and lay it in a hair sieve. Then fill 
 one half of your glasses a little more than half full with 
 white wine, and the other half of your glasses a little 
 more than half full with red wine. Then lay your 
 froth as high as you can, but take care that it is well 
 drained on your sieve, otherwise it will mix with the 
 wine, and your syllabub be spoiled. 
 
 Solid Syllabub. 
 
 To a quart of rich cream put a pint of white wine, 
 the juice of two lemons, with the rind of one grated, 
 and sweeten it to your taste. Whip it up well, and 
 take off the froth as it rises. Put it upon a hair sieve, 
 and let it stand in a cool place till the next day. Then 
 half fill your glasses with the skim, and heap up the 
 froth as high as you can. The bottom will look clear, 
 and it will keep several days. 
 
 Lemon Syllabubs. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, and rub 
 upon the outer rinds of two lemons, till you have got 
 all the essence out of them. Then put the sugar into 
 a pint of cream, and the same quantity of white wine. 
 Squeeze in the juice of both lemons, and let it stand 
 ior two hours. Then mill it with a chocolate-mill to raise 
 
249 
 
 SYLLABUBS, tyc. 
 
 the froth, and take it off with a spoon as it rises, or it 
 will make it heavy. Lay it upon a hair sieve to drain, 
 then fill your glasses with the remainder, and lay on 
 the froth as high as you can. Let them stand all night, 
 and they will be fit for use. 
 
 Everlasting Syllabubs. 
 
 Take half a pint of Rhenish wine, half a pint of 
 sack, with the juice of two large Seville oranges, and 
 put them into two pints and a half of thick cream. 
 Grate in just the yellow rind of three lemons, and put 
 in a pound of double-refined sugar well beaten and 
 sifted. Mix all together with a spoonful of orange- 
 flower water, and with a whisk beat it well together 
 for half an hour. Then, with a spoon, take off the 
 froth, lay it on a sieve to drain, and fill your glasses. 
 These will keep better than a week, and should always 
 be made a day before they are wanted. The best way to 
 whip a syllabub is this : have a fine large chocolate-mill, 
 w hich you must keep on purpose, and a large deep bowl 
 to mill them in, as this way they will be done quicker, 
 and the froth be the stronger. For the thin that is 
 left at the bottom, have ready some calf’s feet jelly 
 boiled and clarified, in which must be nothing but the 
 calf’s feet boiled to a hard jelly. When it is cold, take 
 off the fat, clear it with the whites of eggs, run it 
 through a flannel bag, and mix it with the clear left of 
 the syllabub. Sweeten it to your palate, give it a boil, 
 and then pour it into basins, or such other vessels as 
 you may think proper. When cold, turn it out, and 
 it will be exceeding fine. 
 
 A Hedgehog. 
 
 Take two pounds of blanched almonds, and beat 
 them well in a mortar, with a little canary and orange- 
 flower water to keep them from oiling. Work them 
 into a stiff paste, and then beat in the yolks of twelve, 
 and the whites of seven eggs. Put to it a pint of cream, 
 sweeten it to your taste, and set it on a clear fire. 
 Keep it constantly stirring till it is th’ek enough to 
 
250 SYLLABUBS, <$*C. 
 
 make into the form of an hedgehog. Then stick it full 
 of blanched almonds, slit and stuck up like the bristles 
 of a hedgehog, and then put it into a dish. Take a pint 
 of cream, and the yolks of four eggs beat up, and 
 sweeten it to your palate. Stir the whole together 
 over a slow fire till it is quite hot, and then pour it in- 
 to the dish round the hedgehog, and let it stand till it 
 is cold, when its form wifi have a pleasing effect. 
 
 Flummery. 
 
 Take an ounce of bitter and the same quantity of 
 sweet almonds, put them in a basin, and pour over 
 them some boiling water to make the skins come off. 
 Then strip off the skins, and throw the kernels into 
 cold water ; take them out, and beat them in a marble 
 mortar, with a little rose-water to keep them from 
 oiling; and when they are beat, put them into a pint 
 of calf’s feet stock : set it over the fire, and sweeten 
 it to your taste with loaf sugar. As soon as it boils, 
 strain it through a piece of muslin or gauze ; and when 
 it is a little cold, put it into a pint of cream, and keep 
 stirring it often till it grows thick and cold. Wet your 
 moulds in cold water, and pour in the flummery. Let 
 them stand about six: hours before you turn them out; 
 and if you make your flummery stiff, and wet your 
 moulds, it will turn out without putting them in- 
 to warm water, which will be a great advantage to the 
 look of the figures, as warm water gives a d illness to 
 the flummery. 
 
 French Flummery. 
 
 Put an ounce of isinglass beat very fine into a 
 quart of cream, and mix them well together. Let it 
 boil gently over a slow fire for a quarter of an hour, 
 and keep it stirring all the time. Then take it off, 
 sweeten it to your taste, and put in a spoonful of rose- 
 water, and another of orange-flower water. Strain it, 
 and pour it into a glass or basin, and when it is cold 
 turn it out. 
 
261 
 
 PRESERVING, i^C. 
 
 Green Melon in Flummery. 
 
 Take a little stiff flummery, and put into it some 
 bitter almonds, with as much juice of spinach as will 
 make it of a fine pale green. When it becomes as thick 
 as good cream, wet your melon-mould, and put it in. 
 Then put a pint of clear calf s feet jelly into a large 
 basin, and let them stand all night. The next day 
 turn out your melon, and lay it in the middle of your 
 basin and jelly. Then fill up your basin with jelly 
 that is beginning to set, and let it stand all night. 
 The next morning turn it out in the same manner as 
 directed for the Fruit in Jelly. See p. 245. For 
 ornament, put on the top a garland of flowers. 
 
 Solomon, s Temple in Flummery. 
 
 Take a quart of stiff flummery, and divide it into 
 three parts. Make one part a pretty thick colour with 
 a little cochineal bruised fine, and steeped in French 
 brandy. Scrape an ounce of chocolate very fine, dis- 
 solve it in a little strong coffee, and mix it with another 
 part of your flummery, to make it a light stone colour. 
 The last part must be white. Then wet your temple- 
 mould, and fit it in a pot to stand even. Fill the top 
 of the temple with red flummery for the steps, and the 
 four points with white. Then fill it up with chocolate 
 flummery, and let it stand till the next day. Then 
 loosen it round with a pin, and shake it loose very 
 gently ; but do not dip your mould in warm water, as 
 that will take off the gloss, and spoil the colour. When 
 you turn it out, stick a small sprig of flowers down 
 from the top of every point, which will not only 
 strengthen it, but give it a pretty appearance. Lay 
 round it rock candy sweetmeats. 
 
 SECT. IY. 
 
 PRESERVING FRUIT, &c. 
 
 Some general rules are necessary to be observed in 
 
252 
 
 PRESERVING 
 
 this part of the Art of Confectionary, and which we 
 shall previously notice as well for the instruction as 
 reputation of those whose province it may be occasion- 
 ally to use such articles. In the first place remember, 
 that in making your syrups, the sugar is well pounded 
 and dissolved before you set it on the fire, which wm 
 not only make the scum rise well, but cause the syrup 
 to have its proper colour. When you preserve cherries, 
 damsons, or any other kind of stone fruit, cover them 
 with mutton-suet rendered, in order to keep out the 
 air, which, if it penetrate, will totally destroy them. 
 All wet sweetmeats must be kept in a dry and cool 
 place, as they wfill be subject to grow mouldy and 
 damp, and too much heat will destroy their virtue. 
 Dip writing paper into brandy, lay it close to the 
 sweetmeats, cover them quite tight with paper, and 
 they will keep for any length of time without receiving 
 the least injury. Without these precautions, all art 
 and endeavours will prove ineffectual. 
 
 Apricots. 
 
 Gather your apricots before your stones become 
 hard, put them into a pan of cold spring water with 
 plenty of vine leaves ; set them over a slow fire till 
 they are quite yellow, then take them out, and rub 
 them with a flannel and salt to take off the lint. Put 
 them into the pan to the same water and leaves, co- 
 ver them close, set them at a good distance from the 
 fire till they are a fine light green, then take them 
 carefully up, and pick out all the bad-coloured and 
 broken ones. Boil the best gently two or three times 
 in a thin syrup, and let them be quite cold each time 
 before you boil them. When they look plump and 
 clear, make a syrup of double-refined sugar, but not 
 too thick ; give your apricots a gentle boil in it, and 
 then put them into your pots or glasses. Dip paper 
 in brandy, lay it over them, tie it close, and keep them 
 in a dry place for use. 
 
 Peaches. 
 
 Get the largest peaches you can, but do not let 
 
FRUITS. 
 
 253 
 
 them be too ripe. Rub off the lint with a cloth, and 
 then run them down the seam with a pin skin deep, 
 and cover them with French brandy. Tie a bladder 
 over them, and let them stand a week. Then take 
 them out, and make a strong syrup for them. Boil 
 and skim it well, then put in your peaches, and boil 
 them till they look clear ; then take them out, and 
 put them into pots or glasses. Mix the syrup with the 
 brandy, and when it is cold, pour it on your peaches. 
 Tie them so close down with a bladder, that no air 
 can come to them, otherwise they will turn black, and 
 be totally spoiled. 
 
 Quinces. 
 
 These may be preserved either whole or in quar- 
 ters, and must be done thus : pare them very thin and 
 round, put them into a saucepan, fill it with hard wa- 
 ter, and lay the parings over the quinces to keep them 
 down. Cover your saucepan close, that none of the 
 steam may get out, set them over a slow fire till they 
 are soft, and of a fine pink colour, and then let them 
 stand till they are cold. Make a good syrup of dou- 
 ble refined sugar, and boil, and skim it well; then 
 put in your quinces, let them boil ten minutes, take 
 them off, and let them stand two or three hours. 
 Then boil them till the syrup looks thick, and the 
 quinces clear. Put them into deep jars, with the 
 syrup, and cover them close with brandy-paper and 
 leather. 
 
 Barberries. 
 
 To preserve barberries for tarts, you must proceed 
 thus : pick the female branches clean from the stalk; 
 take their weight of loaf sugar, and put them into a 
 jar. Set them in a kettle of boiling water till the 
 sugar is melted, and the barberries quite soft, and then 
 let them stand all night. The next day put them into 
 a preserving pan, and boil them fifteen minutes, then 
 put them into jars, tie them close, and set them by for 
 use. 
 
 If you intend to preserve your barberries in bunches 
 you must proceed as follows : having procured the 
 
254 
 
 PRESERVING 
 
 finest female barberries, select all the largest branches, 
 and then pick the rest from the stalks. Put them in 
 as much water as will make a syrup for your bunches. 
 Boil them till they are soft, then strain them through 
 a sieve, and to every pint of juice put a pound and a 
 half of loaf sugar. Boil and skim it well, and to every 
 pint of syrup put half a pound of barberries in bunches. 
 Boil them till they look very fine and clear, then put 
 them carefully into pots or glasses, and tie them close 
 down with paper dipped in brandy. 
 
 Pine-Apples. 
 
 These must be taken before they are ripe, and laid 
 in strong salt and water for five days. Then put into 
 the bottom of a large saucepan a handful of vine-leaves, 
 and put in your pine-apples. Fill your pan with vine- 
 leaves, and then pour in the salt and water they were 
 laid in. Cover it up very close, set them over a slow 
 fire, and let them stand till they are of a fine light green. 
 Have ready a thin syrup, made of a quart of water, 
 and a pound of double-refined sugar. When it is al- 
 most cold, put it into a deep jar, and put in the pine- 
 apples with their tops on. Let them stand a w T eek, 
 and take care they are well covered with the syrup. 
 When they have stood a week, boil your syrup again, 
 and pour it carefully into your jar, lest you break the 
 tops of your pine-apples. Let it stand eight or ten 
 weeks, and during that time give the syrup tw 7 o or 
 three boilings to keep it from moulding. Let your 
 syrup stand till it is near cold before you put it on ; 
 and when your pine-apples look quite full and green, 
 take them out of the syrup, and make a thick syrup 
 of three pounds of double-refined sugar, with as much 
 water as will dissolve it. Boil and skim it well, put 
 a few slices of white ginger into it, and when it is 
 nearly cold, pour it upon your pineapples. Tie them- 
 dovvn close with a bladder, and they will keep many 
 years without shrinking. 
 
 Grapes. 
 
 Take some close bunches (whether white or red is 
 
FRUITS. 
 
 255 
 
 immaterial) not too ripe, and lay them in a jar. Put 
 to them a quarter of a pound of sugar-candy, and fill 
 the jar with common brandy. Tie them up close with 
 a bladder, and set them in a dry place. 
 
 Morello Cherries. 
 
 Gather your cherries when they are full ripe, take 
 off the stalks, and prick them with a pin. To every 
 pound of cherries put a pound and a half of loaf-sugar. 
 Beat part of your sugar, strew it over them, and let 
 them stand all night. Dissolve the rest of your sugar 
 in half a pint of the juice of currants, set it over a slow 
 fire, and put in the cherries with the sugar, and give 
 them a gentle scald. Then take them carefully out, 
 boil your syrup till it is thick, pour it upon the cherries, 
 and tie them down close. 
 
 Green Codlins , or other Fine Sauce Apples. 
 
 Gather them when they are about the size of a 
 large walnut, with the stalks and a leaf or two on them. 
 Put a handful of vine leaVes into a pan of spring wa- 
 ter ; then put a layer of codlins, then one of vine leaves, 
 and so on till the pan is full. Cover it close to pre- 
 vent the steam getting out, and set it on a slow fire. 
 When you find them soft, take off the skins with a 
 penknife, and then put them in the same water with 
 the vine leaves, which must be quite cold, otherwise 
 they will be apt to crack. Put in a little roach alum, 
 and set them over a very slow fire till they are green, 
 which will be in three or four hours. Then take them 
 out, and lay them on a sieve to drain. Make a good 
 syrup, and give them a gentle boil once a day for three 
 days. Then put them into small jars, cover them 
 close with brandy-paper, tie them down tight, and set 
 them in a dry place. They will keep all the year. 
 
 Golden Pippins. 
 
 Boil the rind of an orange very tender, and let it 
 lay in water two or three days. Take a quart of gol- 
 den pippins, pare, core, quarter, and boil them to a 
 strong jelly, and run it through a jelly- bag. Then take 
 
256 
 
 PRESERVING 
 
 twelve of the largest pippins, pare them, and scrape 
 out the cores. Put a pint of water into a stew-pan, 
 with two pounds of loaf sugar. When it boils, skim 
 it, and put in your pippins, with the orange rind in thin 
 slices. Let them boil fast till the sugar is very thick, 
 and will almost candy. Then put a pint of the pip- 
 pin-jelly, and boil them fast till the jelly is quite clear. 
 Then squeeze in the juice of a lemon, give it a boil, 
 and with the orange-peel, put them into pots or glasses, 
 and cover them close. 
 
 Gi'een Gage Plums. 
 
 Get the finest plums you can, gathered just before 
 they are ripe. Put a layer of vine-leaves at the bot- 
 tom of your pan, then a layer of plums, and then vine- 
 leaves and plums alternately, till the pan is nearly fill- 
 ed. Then put in as much water as it will hold, set 
 it over a slow fire, and when the plums are hot, and 
 begin to crack, take them off, and pare olf the skins 
 very carefully, putting them into a sieve, as you do 
 them. Then lay them in the same water, with a 
 layer of leaves between as you did at first, and cover 
 them so close that no steam can get out. Hang them 
 at a great distance from the fire till they are green, 
 which will take at least five or six hours. Then take 
 them carefully up, lay them on a hair sieve to drain, 
 make a good syrup, and give them a gentle boil in it 
 twice a day for two days. Then take them out, put 
 them into a fine clear syrup, and cover them close 
 down with brandy-paper. 
 
 Oranges. 
 
 Take what number of Seville oranges you think 
 proper, cut a hole at the stalk end of each, about the 
 size of a sixpence, and scoop out the pulp quite clean ; 
 tie them separately in pieces of muslin, and lay them 
 in spring water for two days. Change the water twice 
 every day, and then boil them in the muslin on a slow 
 fire till they are quite tender. As the water wastes, 
 put more hot water into the pan, and keep them co- 
 vered. Weigh the oranges before you scoop them, and 
 
FRUITS. 
 
 257 
 
 to every pound put two pounds of double-refined sugar, 
 and a pint of water. Boil the sugar and water with 
 the juice of the oranges to a syrup, skim it well, let it 
 stand till it is cold, then take the oranges out of the 
 muslin, put them into the pan, and let them boil half 
 an hour. If they are not quite clear, boil them once 
 a day for two or three days. Then pare and core 
 some green pippins, and boil them till the water is 
 strong of the apple ; but do not stir them, and only put 
 them down with the back of a spoon. Strain the wa- 
 ter through a jelly-bag till it is quite clear, and then to 
 every pint of water put a pound of double-refined sugar, 
 and the juice of a lemon strained fine. Boil it up to a 
 strong jelly, drain the oranges out of the syrup, and 
 put them into glass jars, or pots the size of an orange, 
 with the holes upwards. Pour the jelly over them, 
 cover them with papers dipped in brandy, and tie them 
 close down with a bladder. You may preserve lemons 
 in the same manner. 
 
 Raspberries. 
 
 Gather your raspberries on a dry day, when they 
 are just turning red, with the stalks on about an inch 
 long. Lay them singly on a dish, then beat and sift 
 their weight of double-refined sugar, and strew it over 
 them. To every quart of raspberries take a quart of 
 red-currant juice, and put to it its weight of double- 
 refined sugar. Boil and skim it well, then put in your 
 raspberries, and give them a scald. Take them oft*, 
 and let them stand for two hours. Then set them on 
 again, and make them a little hotter. Proceed in this 
 manner two or three times till they look clear ; but do 
 not let them boil, as that will make the stalks come off. 
 When they are tolerably cool, put them in jelly-glasses 
 with the stalks downwards. White raspberries must 
 be preserved in the same manner, only observing, that 
 instead of red you use white-currant juice. 
 
 Strawberries. 
 
 Gather the finest scarlet strawberries you can, 
 with the stalks on, before they are too ripe. Lay them 
 separately on a china dish, then beat and sift twice 
 No. 11. 2 K 
 
253 
 
 PRESERVING 
 
 their weight of double-refined sugar, and strew it over 
 them. Take a few ripe scarlet strawberries, crush 
 them, and put them into a jar, with their weight of 
 double-refined sugar beat small. Cover them close, 
 and let them stand in a kettle of boiling water till they 
 are soft, and the syrup is extracted from them. Then 
 strain them through a muslin rag into a preserving- 
 pan, boil and skim it well, and when it is cold, putin 
 your whole strawberries, and set them over the lire 
 till they are milk warm. Then take them off, and let 
 them stand till they are quite cold. Set them on again, 
 and make them a little hotter, and do so several times 
 till they look clear ; but do not let them boil, as that 
 will bring off their stalks. When the strawberries are 
 cold, put them into jelly-glasses, with the stalks down- 
 wards, and fill up your glasses with the syrup. Put 
 over them papers dipped in brandy, and tie them down 
 close. 
 
 Currants in Bunches. 
 
 Stone them, and tie six or seven bunches together 
 with a thread to a piece of split deal about four inches 
 long. Put them into the preserving-pan with their 
 weight of double-refined sugar beaten and finely sifted, 
 and let them stand all night. Then take some pippins, 
 pare, core, and boil them, and press them down with 
 the back of a spoon, but do not stir them. When the 
 water is strong of the apple, add to it the juice of a le- 
 mon, and strain it through a jelly-bag till it runs quite 
 clear. To every pint of your liquor put a pound of 
 double-refined sugar, and boil it up to a strong jelly. 
 Then put it to your currants, and boil them till they 
 look clear. Cover them in the preserving-pan with 
 paper till they are almost cold, and then put the bunches 
 of currants into your glasses, and fill them up with jelly. 
 When they are cold, wet papers in brandy and lay 
 over them; then put over them another paper, and tie 
 them up close. This method must be pursued with 
 either white or red currants. 
 
 To preserve currants for tarts, you must proceed 
 thus : to every pound of currants take a pound of sugar. 
 
FRUITS. 
 
 259 
 
 Put your sugar into a preserving-pan, with as much 
 juice of currants as will dissolve it. When it boils, 
 skim it, put in your currants, and boil them till they 
 are clear. Put them into a jar, lay brandy-paper 
 over them, and tie them down close. 
 
 Gooseberries. 
 
 Get the largest green gooseberries you can, and 
 pick off the black eye, but not the stalk. Set them 
 over the fire in a pot of water to scald, but do not let 
 them boil, as that will spoil them. When they are 
 tender, take them up, and put them into cold water. 
 Then take a pound and a half of double-refined sugar 
 to a pound of gooseberries, and clarify the sugar with 
 water, a pint to a pound of sugar. When your syrup 
 is cold, put the gooseberries singly into your preserving- 
 pan, put the syrup to them, and set them on a gentle 
 fire. Let them boil, but not so fast as to break them ; 
 and when they have boiled, and you perceive the sugar 
 has entered them, take them off, cover them with 
 white paper, and set them by all night. The next 
 day take them out of the syrup, and boil the syrup till 
 it begins to be ropy. Skim it, and put it to them 
 again, set them on a slow fire, and let them simmer 
 gently till you perceive the syrup will rope. Then 
 take them off, set them by till they are cold, and co- 
 ver them with brandy-paper. 
 
 If you preserve red gooseberries, you must proceed 
 thus : put a pound of loaf-sugar into a preserving-pan, 
 with as much water as will dissolve it, and boil and 
 skim it well. Then put in a quart of rough red goose- 
 berries, and let them boil a little. Set them by till 
 the next day, and then boil them till they look clear, 
 and the syrup is thick. Then put them into pots, or 
 glasses, and cover them with brandy-paper. 
 
 Gooseberries in imitation of Hops. 
 
 Take the largest green walnut gooseberries you 
 can get, and cut them at the stalk end into four quar- 
 ter*. Leave them whole at the blossom end, take out 
 
260 
 
 PRESERVING 
 
 all the seeds, and put five or six one in another. Take 
 a needleful of strong thread, with a large knot at the 
 end ; run the needle through the bunch of gooseberries, 
 tie a knot to fasten them together, and they will resem- 
 ble hops, put cold spring water into your pan, with a 
 large handful of vine leaves at the bottom ; then three 
 or four layers of gooseberries, with plenty of vine leaves 
 between every layer, and over the top of your pan. 
 Cover it so that no steam can get out, and set them on 
 a slow fire. Take them off as soon as they are scald- 
 ing hot, and let them stand till they are cold. Put 
 them into a sieve to drain, and make a thin syrup thus • 
 to every pint of water put a pound of common loaf 
 sugar, and boil it and skim it well. When it is about 
 idlf cold, put in your gooseberries, let them stand till 
 i he next day, give them one boil a day for three days. 
 Then make a syrup thus : to every pint of water put 
 in a pound of fine sugar, a slice of ginger, and a lemon- 
 peel cut lengthways very fine. Boil and skim it well, 
 give your gooseberries a boil in it, and when thev are 
 cold, put them into glasses or pots, lay brandy-paper 
 over them, and tie them up close. 
 
 Damsons. 
 
 Put your damsons into a skillet over the fire, with 
 as much water as will cover them. When they have 
 boiled, and the liquor is pretty strong, strain it out, and 
 add to every pound of damsons wiped clean, a pound 
 of single-refined sugar. Put one third of your sugar 
 into the liquor, set it over the fire, and when it simmers 
 put in the damsons. Let them have one good boil, 
 then take them off, and cover them up close for half 
 an hour. Then set them on again, and let them sim- 
 mer over the fire after turning them. Then take them 
 out, put them into a basin, strew all the sugar that 
 was left on them, and pour the hot liquor over them. 
 Cover them up, let them stand till the next day, and 
 then boil them up again till they are enough. Then 
 take them up, and put them into pots; boil the liquor 
 till it jellies, and when it is almost cold, pour it on 
 
FRUITS. 261 
 
 them. Cover them with paper, tie them close, and set 
 them in a dry place. 
 
 Walnuts. 
 
 There are three different ways of preserving wal- 
 nuts, namely, white, black, and green. To preserve 
 them white, you must pare them till the white appears, 
 and nothing else. As you do them, throw them into 
 salt and water, and let them lie there till your sugar is 
 ready. Take three pounds of good loaf sugar, put it 
 into your preserving- pan, set it over a charcoal fire, 
 and put as much water to it as will just wet the sugar. 
 Let it boil, and have ready ten or twelve whites of 
 eggs strained, and beat up to a froth. Cover your 
 sugar with the froth as it boils, and skim it. Then 
 boil and skim it till it is as clear as crystal, and throw 
 in your w r alnuts. Just give them a boil till they are 
 tender, then take them out, and lay them in a dish to 
 cool. When they are cold, put them into your pre- 
 serving-pot, and pour the sugar as warm as milk over 
 them. When they are quite cold tie them up. 
 
 In preserving walnuts black, you must proceed thus : 
 take those of the smaller kind, put them into salt and 
 water, and change the water every day for nine days. 
 Then put them into a sieve, and let them stand in the 
 air till they begin to turn black. Then put them into 
 a jug, pour boiling water over them, and let them 
 stand till the next day. Put them into a sieve to 
 drain, stick a clove in each end of the walnuts, put 
 them into a pan of boiling water, and let them boil 
 five minutes. Then take them up, make a thin syrup, 
 and scald them in it three or four times a day, till your 
 walnuts are black and bright. Then make a thin 
 syrup with a few cloves, and a little ginger cut in slices. 
 Skim it well, pour in your walnuts, boil them five or 
 six minutes, and then put them into jars. Lay brandy- 
 paper over them, and tie them down close with a 
 bladder. The longer they are kept, the better they 
 will eat, as time takes off their bitterness. 
 
 Green walnuts must be prepared by the following 
 mode : w r ipe them very dry, and lay them in salt and 
 
262 
 
 PRESERVING FRUITS. 
 
 water for twenty-four hours. Then take them out, and 
 wipe them very clean. Have ready a skillet of boiling 
 water, throw them in, let them boil a minute, and then 
 take them out. Lay them on a coarse cloth, and boil 
 your sugar as directed for the white walnuts. Then 
 just give them a scald in the sugar, take them up, and 
 lay them to cool. Put them into your preserving- 
 pot, and proceed as directed for the preserving of white 
 walnuts. 
 
 Cucumbers. 
 
 Take the greenest cucumbers, and the most free 
 from seeds you can get ; some small to preserve whole, 
 and others large to cut into pieces. Put them into 
 strong salt and water in a straight mouthed jar, with 
 a cabbage-leaf to keep them down. Set them in a 
 warm place till they are yellow, then wash them out, 
 and set them over the fire in fresh water, with a little 
 salt, and a fresh cabbage-leaf over them. Cover the 
 pan very close, but take care they do not boil. If they 
 are not of a fine green, change your water, and that 
 will help them. Then cover them as before, and 
 make them hot. When they become of a good green 
 take them off the fire, and let them stand till they are 
 cold. Then cut the large ones into quarters, take out 
 the seed and soft part, then put them into cold water, 
 and let them stand two days; but change the water 
 twice every day to take out the salt. Take a pound 
 of single-refined sugar, and half a pint of water ; set it 
 over the fire, and, when you have skimmed it clean, 
 put in the rind of a lemon, and an ounce of ginger with 
 the outside scraped off. When your syrup is pretty 
 thick, take it off ; and when cold wipe the cucumbers 
 dry, and put them in. Boil the syrup once in two or 
 three days for three weeks, and strengthen it if neces- 
 sary. When you put the syrup to your cucumbers, 
 be sure that it is quite cold. Cover them close, and 
 set them in a dry place. 
 
CANDYING, 4*C. 263 
 
 SECT. Y. 
 
 DRYING and CANDYING. 
 
 Before you proceed to dry and candy any kind of 
 fruit, let it be first preserved, and so dried in a stove 
 or before the fire, that all the syrup may be totally ex- 
 tracted. When you have boiled your sugar to the 
 candy height, dip in the fruit, and lay them in dishes 
 in your stove to dry; then put them into boxes, and 
 keep them in a place where they cannot receive in- 
 jury either from heat or damp. 
 
 Dried Apricots 
 
 Take as many apricots as will amount to about a 
 pound weight, pare and stone them, and then put them 
 into a preserving-pan. Pound and sift half a pound of 
 double-refined sugar, strew a little among them, and 
 lay the rest over them. When they have been twenty- 
 four hours in this state, turn them three or four times 
 in the syrup, and then boil them pretty quick till they 
 look clear. When they are cold, take them out, and 
 lay them on glasses. Then put them into a stove, and 
 turn them the first day every half hour, the second 
 day every hour, and so on till they are perfectly dry. 
 Put them into boxes covered, and set them by for use. 
 
 Dried Peaches. 
 
 Pare and stone some of the finest peaches you can 
 get; then put them into a saucepan of boiling water, 
 let them boil till they are tender, and then lay them 
 on a sieve to drain. Put them again into the same 
 saucepan, and cover them with their own weight in 
 sugar. Let them lie two or three hours, and then boil 
 them till they are clear, and the syrup pretty thick. 
 Cover them close, and let them stand all night; scald 
 them well, and then take them off to cool. When they 
 are quite cold, set them on again till they are tho- 
 roughly hot, and continue this for three or four days. 
 Then lay them on plates, and turn them every day 
 till they are quite dry. 
 
264 
 
 CANDYING, 4*C. 
 
 Candied Angelica. 
 
 Cut your angelica in lengths when young, cover it 
 close, and boil it till it is tender. Then peel it, put it 
 in again, and let it simmer and boil till it is green. 
 Then take it up, dry it with a cloth, and to every 
 pound of stalks put a pound of sugar. Put your stalks 
 into an earthen pan, beat your sugar, strew it over 
 them, and let them stand two days. Then boil it till 
 it is clear and green, and put in a cullender to drain. 
 Beat another pound of sugar to powder, and strew it 
 over the angelica ; then lay it on plates, and let it 
 stand in a slack oven till it is thoroughly dry. 
 
 Green Gage Plums dried. 
 
 Make a thin syrup of half a pound of single-refined 
 sugar, skim it well, slit a pound of plums down the 
 seam, and put them into the syrup. Keep them scald- 
 ing hot till they are tender, and take care they are well 
 covered with syrup, or they will lose their colour. 
 Let them stand all night, and then make a rich syrup 
 thus : to a pound of double-refined sugar put two 
 spoonsful of water, skim it well, and boil it ahnost to a 
 candy. When it is cold, drain your plums out of the 
 first syrup, and put them into the thick syrup ; but be 
 careful to let the syrup cover them. Set them on the 
 fire to scald till they look clear, and then put them into 
 a china bowl. When they have stood a week, then take 
 them out, and lay them on china dishes. Then put 
 them into a stove, and turn them once a day till they 
 are dry. 
 
 Dried Cherries. 
 
 Take what quantity of morello cherries you think 
 proper, stone them, and to every pound of cherries put 
 a pound and a quarter of fine sugar ; beat and sift it over 
 your cherries, and let them stand all night. Then take 
 them out of their sugar, and to every pound of sugar 
 put two spoonsful of water. Boil and skim it well, 
 and then put in your cherries. Let your sugar boil 
 over them, the next morning strain them, and to 
 every pound of syrup put half a pound more sugar. 
 
260 
 
 CANDYING, §C. 
 
 Boil it till it is a little thicker, then put in your cherries, 
 and let them boil gently. The next day strain them, 
 put them into a stove, and turn them every day till 
 they are dry. 
 
 Dried Damsons. 
 
 Gather your damsons when they are full ripe, 
 spread them on a coarse cloth, and set them in a very 
 cool oven. Let them stand a day or two, and if they 
 are not then properly dried, put them in for a day or 
 two longer. Then take them out, lay them in a dry 
 place, and they will eat like fresh plums, though even 
 in the midst of winter. 
 
 Candied Cassia. 
 
 Take as much of the powder of brown cassia as will 
 lie upon a half-crown, with as much musk and amber- 
 gris as you think proper. Pound them both well to- 
 gether. Then take a quarter of a pound of sugar, boil 
 it to a candy height, put in your powder, and mix it 
 well together. Pour it into saucers, which must be 
 buttered very thin, and when cold, it will slip out. 
 
 Lemon and Orange Peels Candied. 
 
 Cut your lemons or oranges Long- ways, take out all 
 the pulp, and put the rinds into a pretty strong salt 
 and hard water for six days. Then boil them in a 
 large quantity of spring water till they are tender. 
 Take them out, and lay them on a hair sieve to drain. 
 Then make a thin syrup of fine loaf sugar, a pound to 
 a quart of water. Put in your peels, and boil them 
 half an hour, or till they look clear, and have ready a 
 thick syrup, made of fine loaf sugar, with as much wa- 
 ter as "will dissolve it. Put in your peels, and boil 
 them over a slow fire till you see the syrup candy about 
 the pan and peels. Then take them out, and grate 
 fine sugar all over them. Lay them on a hair sieve 
 to drain, and set them in a stove, or before the fire to 
 dry. 
 
 Candied Ginger. 
 
 Take an ounce of race ginger grated fine, a pound 
 of loaf sugar beat fine, and put them into a preservmg- 
 No. 12. 2 L 
 
266 CANDYING, 4-C. 
 
 pan, with as much water as will dissolve the sugar. 
 Stir them well together over a very slow fire till the 
 sugar begins to boil. Then stir in another pound of 
 sugar beat fine, and keep stirring it till it grows thick. 
 Then take it off the fire, and drop it in cakes upon 
 earthen dishes. Set them in a w T arm place to dry, and 
 they will be hard and brittle, and look white. 
 
 Candied Horehound. 
 
 Let your horehound be boiled in water till the juice 
 is quite extracted. Take your sugar, and boil it up to 
 a feather, then add your juice to the sugar, and let it 
 boil till it is again the same height. Stir it with a 
 spoon against the sides of your sugar-pan, till it begins 
 to grow thick, then pour it out into a paper case that 
 is dusted with fine sugar, and cut it into squares. You 
 may dry the horehound, and put it into the sugar finely 
 powdered and sifted. 
 
 Candied Almond Cake, or Gateau Noga. 
 
 Take some fine powder sugar, put it into your 
 stew-pan, and stir it over the fire till the sugar is near- 
 ly dissolved ; have ready half a pound of almonds sliced 
 and parched. Put them into the sugar you have over 
 the fire, and keep stirring them well about till your 
 almonds are a nice brown ; take a jelly-mould or stew- 
 pan, oil it well, and put your almonds into it ; keep them 
 well up to the sides, and when cold, you may turn it 
 out to cover a burnt cream or boiled custard ; or it 
 may be served up just as it is. Sometimes they are 
 ornamented like Savoy cakes, and look very handsome. 
 
 Candied Rhubarb Cakes. 
 
 Take an ounce of rhubarb in powder, an ounce of 
 fine powder-ginger, eighteen ounces of sugar, three 
 drops of oil of peppermint; boil your sugar up to a 
 feather, then mix all the ingredients, stirring them till 
 it begins to grain. Have ready a square paper case, 
 sugared with fine powder sugar : when cold, cut them 
 in square pieces. 
 
267 
 
 CANDYING, i$*C. 
 
 Compote of Crude Orange. 
 
 Cut the upper part of six sweet oranges in such a 
 manner as to put them together as if they were whole. 
 Pierce the pulps in several places with a little knife, 
 and put in some fine powder sugar; then replace the 
 pieces you have cut olf, and serve them up in your 
 desert. 
 
 Compote of Apples. 
 
 Take a dozen of golden pippins, pare them nicely, 
 and take the core out with a small penknife; put them 
 into some water, and let them be well scalded ; then 
 take a little of the water with some sugar, and a few 
 apples which may be sliced into it, and let the whole 
 hoil till it conies to a syrup : then pour it over your 
 pippins, and garnish them with dried cherries and le- 
 mon- peel cut fine. You must take care that your pip- 
 pins are not split. 
 
 Compote of Pears. 
 
 Let what quantity of pears you wish to be nicely 
 scalded till soft, then take them out, pare them, and 
 throw them into cold water to harden; take some su- 
 gar, cinnamon, red wine, and cloves, and put your 
 pears into it; let them gently boil till a syrup : you 
 may add some cochineal to give them a fine colour. 
 
 Compote of Quinces. 
 
 These may be cut in quarters and done in the same 
 way as the apples, taking care that the quinces are 
 done quite tender before you put them into the sugar. 
 Let the syrup of all your compotes be thick before you 
 dish them up. 
 
 Orange Chips. 
 
 Ge t some of the best Seville oranges you can, pare 
 them at least about a quarter of an inch broad, and if 
 you can keep the parings whole, they will have a pret- 
 ty effect. When you have pared as many as you in- 
 tend, put them into salt and spring water for a day or 
 two ; then boil them in a large quantity of spring water 
 till they are tender, and drain them on a sieve. Have 
 
263 CANDYING, tyc. 
 
 ready a thin syrup made of a quart of water, and a 
 pound of sugar. Boil them a few at a time, to keep 
 them from breaking till they look clear. Then put them 
 into a syrup made of fine loaf sugar, with as much 
 water as will dissolve it, and boil them to a candy 
 height. When you take them up, lay them on a sieve, 
 and grate double-refined sugar over them. Then put 
 them in a stove, or before the fire to dry. 
 
 Orange Marmalade. 
 
 Get the clearest Seville oranges you can, cut them 
 in two, take out all the pulp and juice into a basin, 
 and pick all the skins and seeds out of it. Boil the 
 rinds in hard water till they are tender, and change the 
 water two or three times while they are boiling. Then 
 pound them in a marble mortar, and add to it the juice 
 and pulp. Then put them in the preserving-pan with 
 double its weight of loaf sugar, and set it over a slow 
 fire. Boil it rather more than half an hour, put it into 
 pots, cover it with brandy-paper, and tie it close 
 down. 
 
 Apricot Marmalade. 
 
 Apricots that are too ripe for keeping best answer 
 this purpose. Boil them in syrup till they will mash, 
 and then beat them in a marble mortar to a paste. 
 Take half their weight of loaf sugar, and add just water 
 enough to dissolve it. *Boil and skim it till it looks 
 clear, and the syrup like a fine jelly. Then put it in- 
 to your sweetmeat glasses, and tie it up close. 
 
 Quince Marmalade 
 
 These must likewise be full ripe for the purpose ol 
 making marmalade. Pare them, and cut them into 
 quarters ; then take out the cores, and put the fruit 
 into a saucepan. Cover them with the parings ; nearly 
 fill the saucepan with spring- water, cover it close, and 
 let them stew over a slow fire till they are soft and of 
 a pink colour. Then pick out the quinces from the pa- 
 rings, and beat them to a pulp in a marble mortar. 
 Take their weight of fine loaf sugar, put as much 
 
269 
 
 CANDYING, #C. 
 
 water to it as will dissolve it, and boil and skim it well. 
 Then put in your quinces, boil them gently three quar- 
 ters of an hour, and keep stirring them all the time. 
 When it is cold, put it into flat pots, tie it down close, 
 and set it by for use. 
 
 Transparent Marmalade. 
 
 Cut very pale Seville oranges into quarters, take 
 out the pulp, put it into a basin, and pick out the skins 
 and seeds. Put the peels into a little salt and water, 
 and let them stand all night. Then boil them in a 
 good quantity of spring water till they are tender, cut 
 them in very thin slices, and put them into the pulp. 
 To every pound of marmalade put a pound and a half 
 of double-refined sugar, finely beaten, and boil them 
 together gently for twenty minutes ; but if not clear 
 and transparent in that time boil it five or six minutes 
 longer. Keep stirring it gently all the time, and take 
 care yon do not break the slices. When it is cold, put 
 it into jelly or sweetmeat glasses, and tie them down 
 tight with brandy-paper and a bladder over them. 
 
 Burnt Almonds. 
 
 Take two pounds of almonds, and put them into 
 a stew-pan, with the same quantity of sugar, and a 
 pint of water. Set them over a clear coal fire, and 
 let them boil till you find the almonds crack. Then 
 take them off, and stir them about till they are quite 
 dry. Put them in a wire sieve, and sift all the sugar 
 from them. Put the sugar into the pan again with a 
 little water, and give it a boil. Then pour four spoons- 
 ful of cochineal to the sugar to colour it, put the almonds 
 into the pan, and keep stirring them over the fire till 
 they are quite dry. Then put them into a large glass, 
 and they will keep all the year. 
 
 Raspberry Paste. 
 
 Mash a quart of raspberries, strain one half, and 
 put the juice to the other half. Boil them a quarter 
 of an horn, put to them a pint of red currant juice. 
 
270 
 
 ORNAMENTS IN 
 
 and let them boil all together till your raspberries are 
 enough. Then put a pound and a half of double-refined 
 sugar into a pan, with as much water as will dis- 
 solve it, and boil it to a sugar again. Put in your rasp- 
 berries and juice, give them a scald, and pour it into 
 glasses or plates. Then put them into a stove, and 
 turn them at times till they are thoroughly dry. 
 
 Currant Paste. 
 
 Currant paste maybe either red or white, accord- 
 ing to the colour of the currants you use. Strip your 
 currants, put a little juice to them to keep them from 
 burning, boil them well, and rub them through a hair 
 sieve. Then boil it a quarter of an hour, and to a pint 
 of juice put a pound and a half of double-refined sugar 
 pounded and sifted. Shake in your sugar, and when 
 it is melted, pour it on plates. Dry it in the same 
 manner as the raspberry paste, and turn it into any 
 form you like best. 
 
 Gooseberry Paste. 
 
 Take some full grown red gooseberries, just on the 
 turn for ripening, cut them in halves, and pick out all 
 the seeds. Have ready a pint of currant juice, and 
 boil your gooseberries in it till they are tender. Put a 
 pound and a half of double-refined sugar into your pan, 
 with as much water as will dissolve it, and boil it to 
 sugar again. Then put all together, and make it 
 scalding hot, but do not let it boil. Pour it into your 
 plates or glasses, and dry it as before directed. 
 
 SECT. VI. 
 
 ORNAMENTS in CONFECTIONARY. 
 
 Artificial Fruit. 
 
 At a proper time of the year, take care to save the 
 stalks of the fruit, with the stones to them. Get some 
 tins neatly made in the shape of the fruit you intend 
 to imitate, leaving a hole at the top, to put in the stone 
 
CONFECTIONARY. 
 
 271 
 
 and stalk. They must be so contrived as to open in 
 the middle, to take out the fruit, and there must also 
 be made a frame of wood to fix them in. Great care 
 must be taken to make the tins very smooth in the in- 
 side, otherwise their roughness will mark the fruit; 
 and that they be made exactly of the shape of the fruit 
 that they are intended to represent. Being prepared 
 with your tins, proceed thus : take two cow-heels, and 
 a calf’s foot, boil them in a gallon of soft water till they 
 are all boiled to rags, and when you have a full quart 
 of jelly, strain it through a sieve. Then put it into a 
 saucepan, sweeten it, put in a lemon-peel perfumed, 
 and colour it like the fruit you intend to imitate. Stir 
 all together, give it a boil, and fill your tins: then put 
 in the stones and the stalks just as the fruit grows, and 
 when the jelly is quite cold, open your tins, and put 
 on the bloom, which may be done by carefully dusting 
 on powder-blue. Keep them covered to prevent the 
 dust getting to them ; and to the eye, art will be an 
 excellent substitute for nature. 
 
 A Dish of Snow. 
 
 Take twelve large apples, and put them into a 
 saucepan with cold water. Set them over a slow fire, 
 and when they are soft, pour them into a hair sieve ; 
 take off the skins, and put the pulp into a basin. Then 
 beat the whites of twelve eggs to a very strong froth ; 
 beat and sift half a pound of double-refined sugar, and 
 strew it into the eggs. Work up the pulp of your ap- 
 ples to a strong froth, then beat them altogether till 
 they are like a stiff snow. Lay it upon a china dish, 
 and heap it up as high as you can. Set round it green 
 knots of paste, in imitation of Chinese rails, and stick 
 a sprig of myrtle in the middle of the dish. 
 
 Moonshine. 
 
 Ge t a piece of tin the shape of a. half moon, as deep 
 as a half pint basin, and one in the shape of a large 
 star, and two or three lesser ones. Boil two calf’s 
 feet in a gallon of water till it comes to a quart, then 
 
272 
 
 ORNAMENTS IN 
 
 strain it off, and when cold, skim off the fat. Take 
 half the jelly, and sweeten it with sugar to your palate. 
 Beat up the whites of four eggs, stir all together over 
 a slow fire till it boils, and then run it through a flan- 
 nel bag till clear. Put it in a clean saucepan, and take 
 an ounce of sweet almonds, blanched, and beat very 
 fine in a marble mortar, with two spoonsful of rose- 
 water, and two of orange-flower water. Then strain 
 it through a coarse cloth, mix it with the jelly, put in 
 four spoonsful of thick cream, and stir it altogether till 
 it boils. Then have ready the dish you intend it for, 
 lay the tin in the shape of a half moon in the middle, 
 and the stars round it. Lay little weights on the tins, 
 to keep them in the place where you put them. Then 
 pour the moonshine into the dish ; and when it is quite 
 cold, take out the tins. Then fill up the vacancies 
 with clear calf s feet jelly. You may colour your 
 moonshine with cochineal and chocolate, to make it 
 look like the sky, and your moon and stars will then 
 shine the brighter. Garnish it with rock candy sweet- 
 meats. 
 
 Floating Island. 
 
 Take a soup-dish of a size proportioned to what 
 you intend to make : but a deep glass set on a china 
 dish will answer the purpose better. Take a quart of 
 the thickest cream you can get, and make it pretty 
 sweet with fine sugar. Pour in a gill of sack, grate 
 in the yellow rind of a lemon, and mill the cream till 
 it is of a thick froth : then carefully pour the thin from 
 the froth into a dish. Cut a French roll, or as many 
 as you want, as thin as yon can, and put a layer of it 
 as light as possible on the cream, then a layer of cur- 
 rant jelly, then a very thin layer of roll, then hartshorn 
 jelly, then French roll, and over that whip your froth 
 which you saved off the cream, well milled up, and lay 
 it on the top as high as you can heap it. Ornament 
 the rim of your dish with figures, fruits, or sweetmeats, 
 as you please. This looks very pretty on the middle 
 of a table, with candles round it; and you may make 
 
CONFECTIONARY. 273 
 
 it of as many different colours as you fancy, according 
 to what jellies, jams, or sweetmeats you have. 
 
 Desert Island. 
 
 Take a lump of paste, and form it into a rock three 
 inches broad at the top ; then colour it, and set it in 
 the middle of a deep china dish. Set a cast figure on 
 it with a crown on its head, and a knot of rock candy 
 at its feet : then make a roll of paste an inch thick, 
 and stick it on the inner edge of the dish, two parts 
 round. Cut eight pieces of eringo-roots, about three 
 inches long, and fix them upright to the roll of paste 
 on the edge. Make gravel walks of shot comfits round 
 the dish, and set small figures in them. Roll out some 
 paste, and cut it open like Chinese rails. Bake it, and 
 fix it on either side of the gravel w T alks with gum, and 
 form an entrance where the Chinese rails are, with 
 two pieces of eringo-root for pillars. 
 
 Chinese Temple, or Obelisk. 
 
 T ake an ounce of fine sugar, half an ounce of but- 
 ter, and four ounces of fine flour. Boil the sugar and 
 butter in a little water, and when it is cold, beat up an 
 ( egg, and put it to the water, sugar, and butter. Mix 
 it w ith the flour, and make it into a very stiff paste : 
 then roll it as thin as possible, have a set of tins in the 
 form of a temple, and put the paste upon them. Cut 
 it in what form you please upon the separate parts of 
 your tins, keeping them separate till baked ; but take 
 .care to have the paste exactly the size of the tins. 
 When you have cut all these parts, bake them in a 
 •slow oven, and when cold, take them out of the tins, 
 and join the parts with strong isinglass and water with 
 a camel’s hair brush. Set them one upon the other, 
 as the forms of the tin moulds will direct you. If you 
 .cut it neatly, and the paste is rolled very thin, it will 
 be a beautiful corner for a large table. If you have 
 obelisk moulds, you may make them the same way 
 for an opposite corner. Be careful to make the pillars 
 stronger than the top, that they may not be crushed 
 by their weight. 
 
 No. 12 
 
 2 M 
 
274 
 
 PICKLING. 
 
 These ornamental decorations in confectionary are 
 calculated to embellish grand entertainments, and it is 
 certain they have all a very pleasing effect on the sight ; 
 out their beauties depend entirely on the abilities and 
 ingenuity of the artist. 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 PICKLIJVG. 
 
 PICKLES are essentially necessary to be kept in 
 all houses, but particularly such as contain large fami- 
 lies; nor will the prudent and judicious housekeeper 
 be without them ; and this for two reasons ; first, to 
 avoid the inconvenience of sending for them when 
 wanted ; and secondly, from being assured that they are 
 done as they ought to be, that is, that they shall have 
 their proper colour without that artifice w hich is likely 
 to be prejudicial to those who use them. It is too 
 common a practice to make use of brass utensils in 
 order to give the pickles a fine green ; but this perni- 
 cious custom is easily avoided by beating the liquor, 
 and keeping it in a proper degree of warmth before 
 you pour it on the articles to be pickled. It is usual 
 to put pickles into earthen jars, but stone jars are by 
 far the best, for though they are more expensive in the 
 first purchase, they will be found much cheaper in the 
 end; the earthen vessels are porous, and will conse- 
 quently admit the air, and spoil the pickles, especially 
 if they stand any length of time ; but this w ill not be 
 the case with stone jars. Remember, that when you 
 take any pickle out of your jars, be sure never to do it 
 with your fingers, as that will spoil the pickle; but 
 alw ays make use of a spoon, w T hich you should keep 
 entirely for that purpose. 
 
 Having mentioned these necessary and general ob- 
 servations relative to pickling, we shall now proceed 
 to particulars, beginning with 
 
 Mangoes, 
 
 o 
 
 The proper cucumbers to be used for this purpose 
 
PICKLING. 
 
 275 
 
 are those of the largest sort, which must be taken from 
 the vines before they are too ripe, or yellow at the ends. 
 Cut a piece out of the side, and take out the seeds with 
 an apple-scraper or a tea-spoon. Then put them into 
 very strong salt and water for eight or nine days, or 
 till they are yellow. Stir them well two or three times 
 every day, and put them into a pan with a large quan- 
 tity of vine leaves both over and under them. Beat 
 a little roach alum very fine, and put it into the salt and 
 water they came out of. Pour it on your cucumbers, 
 and set them on a very slow fire for four or five hours 
 till they are pretty green. Then take them out, and 
 drain them in a hair sieve, and when they are cold, 
 put to them a little horse-radish, then mustard-seed, 
 two or three heads of garlic, a few pepper-corns, a few 
 green encumbers sliced in small pieces, then horse- 
 radish, and the same as before-mentioned, till you have 
 filled them. Then take the piece you cut out, and 
 sew it on with a large needle and thread, and do all 
 the rest in the same manner. Have ready the follow- 
 ing pickle : to every gallon of vinegar put an ounce of 
 mace, the same of cloves, two ounces of sliced ginger, 
 the same of long pepper, Jamaica pepper, three ounces 
 of mustard-seed tied up in a bag, four ounces of garlic, 
 and a stick of horse-radish cut in slices. Boil them 
 five minutes in the vinegar, then pour it upon your 
 pickles, tie them down close, and keep them for use. 
 
 Girkins. 
 
 Put a quantity of spring water into a large earthen 
 pan, and to every gallon put two pounds of salt. Mix 
 them well together, and throw in five hundred girkins. 
 When they have been two hours in the salt and water, 
 take them out, and put them to drain ; and when they 
 are thoroughly dry, put them into your jar. Take a gal- 
 lon of the best white wine vinegar, and put it in a 
 saucepan, with half an ounce of cloves and mace, an 
 ounce of allspice, the same quantity of mustard-seed, a 
 stick of horse-radish cut in slices, six bay-leaves, two 
 or three races of ginger, a nutmeg cut in pieces, and a 
 
276 
 
 PICKLING. 
 
 handful of salt. Boil up all together, and pour it over 
 the girkins. Cover them close down, and let them 
 stand twenty-four hours. Then put them into your 
 saucepan, and let them simmer over the fire till they 
 are green ; but be careful not to let them boil, as that 
 will spoil them. Then put them into your jar, and 
 cover them down close till they are cold. Then tie 
 them over with a bladder and a piece of leather, and 
 put them in a dry cold place. 
 
 Cucumbers. 
 
 For the purpose of pickling, choose the smallest 
 cucumbers you can get, and be careful they are as free 
 from spots as possible. Put them into strong salt and 
 water for nine or ten days, or till they are quite yellow, 
 and stir them twice a day, at least, or they will grow 
 soft. When they are perfectly yellow, pour the water 
 from them, and cover them with plenty of vine leaves. 
 Set your water over the fire, and when it boils, pour 
 it upon them, and set them upon the hearth to keep 
 warm. When the water is nearly cold, make it boiling 
 hot again, and pour it upon them. Proceed in this 
 manner till you perceive they are of a fine green, which 
 they will be in four or five times. Be careful to keep 
 them well covered with vine leaves, with a cloth and 
 dish over the top to keep in the steam, which will 
 help to green them the sooner. When they are 
 greened, put them into a hair sieve to drain, and then 
 make the following pickle for them : to every two 
 quarts of white wine vinegar, put half an ounce of 
 mace, or ten or twelve cloves, an ounce of ginger cut 
 into slices, the same of black pepper, and a handful of 
 salt. Boil them all together for five minutes, pour it 
 hot upon your pickles, and tie them down with a blad- 
 der for use. 
 
 Cucumbers in slices. 
 
 Take some large cucumbers before they are too 
 ripe, slice them of the thickness of a crown-piece, and 
 put them into a pewter dish. To every dozen of cu- 
 
277 
 
 PICKLING. 
 
 cumbers slice two large onions thin, and so on till you 
 have fiiled your dish, or have got the quantity you in- 
 tend to pickle ; but remember to put a handful of salt 
 between every row. Then cover them with another 
 pewter dish, and let them stand twenty-four hours. 
 Then put them into a cullender, and when they are 
 thoroughly dry, put them into a jar, cover them over 
 with white wine vinegar, and let them stand four hours. 
 Pour the vinegar from them into a saucepan, and boil 
 it with a little salt. Put to the cucumbers a little 
 mace, a little whole pepper, a large race of ginger 
 sliced, and then pour on them the boiling vinegar. 
 Cover them close, and when they are cold, tie them 
 down, and they will be ready for use in a few days. 
 
 To Keep Cucumbers. 
 
 Choose those that are small, and not too old; put 
 them in jars, and pour over a brine like the French 
 beans ; (see p. 281 ;) when you use them take the rind 
 off, and dress them in the same manner as others. 
 
 Walnuts. 
 
 There are various methods of pickling walnuts, 
 in order to have them of different colours, the number 
 of which are four, namely, black, white, olive colour, 
 and green ; each of which we shall describe in their 
 proper order. 
 
 To pickle walnuts black , you must gather them be- 
 fore the shells get too hard, which may be known by 
 running a pin into them, and always gather them when 
 the sun is hot upon them. Put them into strong salt 
 and water for nine days, and stir them twice a day, 
 observing to change the salt and water every three 
 days. Then put them into a hair sieve, and let them 
 stand in the air till they turn black. Put them into 
 strong stone jars, and pour boiling vinegar over them ; 
 cover them up, and let them stand till they are cold. 
 Then give the vinegar three more boilings, pour it each 
 time on the walnuts, and let it stand till it is cold be- 
 tween every boiling. Then tie them down with paper 
 
PICKLING. 
 
 278 
 
 and a bladder over them, and let them s'and two 
 months. When that time has elapsed, take them out 
 of the vinegar, and make a pickle for them thus : to 
 every two quarts of vinegar put half an ounce of mace, 
 and the same of cloves; of black pepper, Jamaica pep- 
 per, long pepper, and ginger, an ounce each, and two 
 ounces of common salt. Boil it ten minutes, then 
 pour it hot on your walnuts, tie them close down, and 
 cover them with paper and a bladder. 
 
 To pickle walnuts white, you must proceed thus : 
 having procured a sufficient quantity of w alnuts, of the 
 largest size, and taken the before-mentioned precaution 
 that the shells are not too hard, pare them very thin 
 till the white appears, and throw them into spring 
 w 7 ater and a handful of salt as vou do them. Let 
 
 *j 
 
 them lie in the water six hours, and put a thin board 
 upon them to keep them under the w 7 ater. Then set 
 a stew 7 -pan with some clean spring w ater on a char- 
 coal lire. Take your nuts out of the w ater, put them 
 into the stew-pan, and let them simmer four or five 
 minutes, but be careful they do not boil. Then have 
 ready a pan of spring water with a handful of salt in it, 
 and stir it till the salt is melted ; then take your nuts 
 out of the stew-pan with a w 7 ooden ladle, or spoon, 
 and put them into the cold water and salt. Let them 
 stand a quarter of an hour, w 7 ith the board lying on 
 them to keep them dowrn as before ; for if they are not 
 kept under the liquor they will turn black. Then lay 
 them on a cloth, and put them into your jar, with 
 some blades of mace and nutmeg sliced thin. Mix 
 your spice between your nuts, and pour distilled vine- 
 gar over them. When your jar is properly filled with 
 nuts, pour mutton fat over them, tie them dow 7 n close 
 with a bladder and leather, and set them in a dry 
 place. 
 
 Walnuts to be pickled of an olive colour, must be 
 managed thus: having gathered your walnuts, w 7 ith 
 the same precautions as before directed, put them into 
 strong ale allegar, and tie them dowrn under a bladder 
 and paper to keep out the air. Let them stand twelve 
 
PICKLING. 
 
 279 
 
 months, then take them out of the allegar, and make 
 for them a pickle of strong allegar. To every quart, 
 put half an ounce of Jamaica pepper, the same of long 
 pepper, a quarter of an ounce of mace, the same of 
 cloves, a head of garlic, and a little salt. Boil them 
 altogether five or six minutes, and then pour it upon 
 your walnuts. As it gets cold, boil it again three times, 
 and pour it on them. Then tie them down with a 
 bladder, and paper over it; and if your allegar is good, 
 they will keep several years, without either turning 
 colour or growing soft. You may make very good cat- 
 sup of the allegar that comes from the walnuts, by add- 
 ing a pound of anchovies, an ounce of cloves, the same 
 of long and black pepper, a head of garlic, and half a 
 pound of common salt, to every gallon of allegar. Boil 
 it till it is half reduced, and skim it well. Then bot- 
 tle it for use, and it will keep a great while. 
 
 To pickle walnuts green, proceed as follows : make 
 use of the large double or French walnuts, gathered 
 before the shells are hard. Wrap them singly in vine 
 leaves, put a few vine leaves in the bottom of your jar, 
 and nearly fill it with your walnuts. Take care they 
 do not touch one another, and put a good many leaves 
 over them. Then fill your jar with good allegar, cover 
 them close that the air cannot get in, and let them 
 stand for three weeks. Then pour the allegar from 
 them, put fresh leaves at the bottom of another jar, 
 take out your walnuts, and wrap them separately in 
 fresh leaves as quick as possibly you can. Put them 
 into your jar with a good many leaves over them, and 
 fill it with white wine vinegar. Let them stand three 
 weeks, pour off your vinegar, and wrap them up as 
 before, with fresh leaves at the bottom and top of your 
 jar. Take fresh white wine vinegar, put salt in it till 
 it will bear an egg, and add to it mace, cloves, nutmeg, 
 and garlic. Boil it about eight minutes, and then pour 
 it on your walnuts. Tie them close with a paper and 
 a bladder, and set them by for use. Be careful to keep 
 them covered, and when you take any out for use, if 
 the whole should not be wanted, do not put those left 
 
280 
 
 PICKLING. 
 
 again into the jar, for by that means the whole may 
 be spoiled. 
 
 Red Cabbage. 
 
 Slice your cabbage crossways, then put it on an 
 earthen dish, and sprinkle a handful of salt over it. 
 Cover it with another dish, and let it stand twenty- 
 four hours. Then put it into a cullender to drain, and 
 lay it into your jar. Take a sufficient quantity of white 
 wine vinegar to cover it, a few cloves, a little mace, 
 and allspice. Put them in whole, with a little cochi- 
 neal bruised fine. Then boil it up, and pour it either 
 hot or cold upon your cabbage. If the former, let it 
 stand till cold, and then tie it down for use. 
 
 Onions. 
 
 Take a sufficient number of the smallest onions 
 you can get, and put them into salt and water for nine 
 days, observing to change the water every day. Then 
 put them into jars, and pour fresh boiling salt and wa- 
 ter over them. Let them stand close covered till they 
 are cold, then make some more salt and water, and 
 pour it boiling hot upon them. When it is cold, put 
 your onions into a hair sieve to drain, then put them 
 into wide-mouthed bottles, and fill them up with dis- 
 tilled vinegar. Put into every bottle a slice or two of 
 ginger, a blade of mace, a tea-spoonful of sweet oil, 
 (which will keep the onions white,) a bay-leaf, and as 
 much salt as will lay on a sixpence. Cork them well 
 up, so that no air can get to them, and set them in a 
 dry place. 
 
 Samphire. 
 
 Take what quantity of green samphire you think 
 proper, put it into a clean pan, throw over it two cfr 
 three handsful of salt, and cover it with spring water. 
 When it has lain twenty-four hours, put it into a clean 
 saucepan, throw in a handful of salt, and cover it with 
 good vinegar. Cover the pan close, set it over a slow 
 fire, let it stand till it is just green and crisp, and then 
 take it off at that moment; for should it remain till it 
 is soft, it will be totally spoiled. Put it into your 
 
PICKLING. 
 
 2fl. 
 
 pickling- pot, and cover it close. When it is quite cold, 
 tie it down with a bladder and leather, and set it by 
 for use. Samphire may be preserved all the year by 
 keeping it in very strong brine of salt and w ater, and, 
 just before you want to use it, put it for a few minutes 
 into some of the best vinegar. 
 
 Kidney Beans. 
 
 Take some yoqng small beans, and put them into 
 strong salt and water for three days, stirring them two 
 or three times each day. Then put them into a pan 
 with vine leaves both under and over them, and pour 
 on them the same water they came out of. Cover 
 them close, and set them over a very slow fire till they 
 are ol a fine green. Then put them into a hair sieve 
 to drain, and make a pickle for them of white wine 
 v inegar, or fine ale allegar. Boil it five or six minutes 
 with a little mace, J amaica pepper, and a race or two 
 of ginger sliced. Then pour it hot upon the beans, 
 and tie them down with a bladder and paper. 
 
 To preserve French Beans. 
 
 Take any quantity of French beans you think fit, 
 choosing those that are tender and least stringy ; hav- 
 ing cut off the ends, boil them a quarter of an hour, 
 and shift them into cold water ; then dry them, and put 
 them into the jars in which you mean to keep them. 
 Pour over your brine till it rises to the rim of the jar, 
 then put over some butter that has been heated and is 
 half cold, which will congeal upon the French beans, 
 and keep them from the air. If you do not like to put 
 blitter you must put mutton suet in the same way. 
 To make the brine, you must take two thirds water 
 and one of vinegar ; add several pounds according to 
 the quantity of brine you w ould make, a pound to three 
 pints. Set it over the fire till the salt is melted ; let 
 jt settle, and before you use it pour it off clear. 
 
 Barberries. 
 
 Take a quantity of barberries not over ripe, pick 
 off the leaves and dead stalks, and put them into jars, 
 No. 12. 2 N 
 
282 
 
 PICKLING. 
 
 with a large quantity of strong salt and water, and tie 
 them down with a bladder. When you see a scum 
 rise on the barberries, put them into fresh salt and wa- 
 ter ; but they need no vinegar, their own natural sharp- 
 ness being fully sufficient to preserve them. Cover 
 them close, and set them by for use. 
 
 Beet Roots. 
 
 Boil the roots till they are tender, and take off the 
 skins, cut them in slices, gimp them in the shape of 
 wheels, or what other form you please, and put them 
 into a jar. Take as much vinegar as you think will 
 cover them, and boil it with a little mace, a race of 
 ginger sliced, and a few small pieces of horse-radish. 
 Pour it hot upon the roots, and tie them down close. 
 
 Radish Pods. 
 
 Gather your radish pods when they are quite 
 young, and put them into salt and w T ater all night ; the 
 next day boil the salt and water they w T ere laid in, pour 
 it upon the pods, and cover your jar close to keep in 
 the steam. When it is nearly cold, make it boiling hot, 
 and pour it on again, and continue doing so till the 
 pods are quite green. Then put them into a sieve to 
 drain, and make a pickle for them of white wine vine- 
 gar, with a little mace, ginger, long pepper, and horse- 
 radish. Pour it boiling hot upon your pods, and when 
 it is almost cold, make your vinegar twice as hot as 
 before, and pour it upon them. Tie them down with 
 a bladder, and set them in a dry place. 
 
 Cauliflowers. 
 
 Take the whitest and closest cauliflowers you can 
 get, break the flowers into bunches, and spread them 
 on an earthen dish. Lay salt all over them, and let 
 them stand for three days to draw out all the water. 
 Then put them into jars, and pour boiling salt and 
 water upon them. Let them stand all night, then 
 drain them in a hair sieve, and put them into glass jars. 
 Fill up your jars with distilled vinegar, and tie them 
 close down. 
 
PICKLING. 28o 
 
 Artichoke Bottoms. 
 
 Boil your artichokes till you can pull off all the 
 leaves, and thoroughly clear the bottoms. Put them 
 into salt and water for an hour, then take them out, 
 and lay them on a cloth to drain. When they are dry, 
 put them into large wide-mouthed glasses, with a lit- 
 tle mace and sliced nutmeg between, and fill them with 
 distilled vinegar. Cover them with mutton fat melted, 
 and tie them down with leather and a bladder. 
 
 To preserve Artichokes. 
 
 They may be quartered, the chokes taken out, and 
 done exactly the same as the French beans. 
 
 Nasturtiums. 
 
 The most proper time for gathering the berries is 
 soon after the blossoms are gone off. Put them into 
 cold salt and w 7 ater, and change the w 7 ater for three 
 days successively. Make your pickle of w 7 hite wine 
 vinegar, mace, nutmeg sliced, shalots, pepper-corns, 
 salt, and horse-radish. Make your pickle pretty strong, 
 but do not boil it. When you have drained your ber- 
 ries, put them into a jar, pour the pickle to them, and 
 tie them down close. 
 
 Mushrooms. 
 
 Take the smallest mushrooms you can get, put 
 them into spring water, and rub them with a piece of 
 new 7 flannel dipped in salt. Throw them into cold wa- 
 ter as you do them, which will make them keep their 
 colour ; then put them into a saucepan, and throw a 
 handful of salt over them. Cover them close, and set 
 them over the fire four or five minutes, or till you find 
 they are thoroughly hot, and the liquor is drawn out 
 from them. Then lay them between two clean cloths 
 till they are cold, put them into glass bottles, and fill 
 them up with distilled vinegar. Put a blade or two of 
 jcnace and a tea-spoonful of sw r eet oil into every bot- 
 tle. Cork them up close, and set them in a cool place. 
 Jf you have not any distilled vinegar, you may use 
 
284 
 
 PICKLING. 
 
 white wine vinegar, or ale allegar will do ; but it must 
 be boiled with a little mace, salt, and a few slices of 
 ginger; and it must stand till it is cold before you pour 
 it on your mushrooms. 
 
 Mushroom Catsup. 
 
 Take a quantity of the full grown flaps of mush- 
 rooms, crush them well with your hands, and then 
 strew a quantity of salt all over them. Let them stand 
 all night, and the next day put them into stew-pans. 
 Set them in a quick oven for twelve hours, and then 
 strain them through a hair sieve. To every gallon of 
 liquor put of cloves, Jamaica and black pepper, and gin- 
 ger, one ounce each, and half a pound of common salt. 
 Set it on a slow fire, and let it boil till half the liquor is 
 wasted away. Then put it into a clean pot, and when 
 it is quite cold, bottle it for use. 
 
 Mushroom Powder. 
 
 Get the largest and the thickest buttons you can, 
 peel them, and cut off the root end, but do not wash 
 them. Spread them separately on pewter dishes, and 
 set them in a slow oven to dry. Let the liquor dry 
 up into the mushrooms, as that will make the powder 
 much stronger, and let them continue in the oven till 
 you find they will powder. Then beat them in a mar- 
 ble mortar, and sift them through a fine sieve, with a 
 little chyan pepper and pounded mace. Bottle it quite 
 clear, and keep it in a dry place. 
 
 Walnut Catsup. 
 
 Put what quantity of walnuts you think proper into 
 jars, cover them with strong cold ale allegar, and tie 
 them close for twelve months. Then take out the wal- 
 nuts from the allegar, and to every gallon of the liquor 
 put two heads of garlic, half a pound of anchovies, a 
 quart of red wine, and of mace, cloves, long, black, and 
 Jamaica pepper, and ginger, an ounce each. Boil 
 them all together till the liquor is reduced to half the 
 quantity, and the next day bottle it for use. 
 
PICKLING. 
 
 285 
 
 Another Method of making Walnut Catsup. 
 
 Take green walnuts before the shell is formed, and 
 grind them in a crab-mill, or pound them in a marble 
 mortar. Squeeze out the juice through a coarse cloth, 
 and put to every gallon of juice a pound of anchovies, 
 the same quantity of bay-salt, four ounces of Jamaica 
 pepper, two of long and two of black pepper ; of mace, 
 cloves, and ginger, each an ounce, and a stick of horse- 
 radish. Boil all together till reduced to half the quan- 
 tity, and then put it into a pot. When it is cold, bot- 
 tle it close, and in three months it will be fit for use. 
 
 Indian Pickle, or Picalillo. 
 
 Take a cauliflower, a white cabbage, a few small 
 cucumbers, radish-pods, kidney-beans, and a little beet- 
 root, or any other thing commonly pickled. Put them 
 into a hair sieve ; and throw a large handful of salt 
 over them. Set them in the sun or before the fire, 
 for three days to dry. When all the water is run out 
 of them, put them into a large earthen pot in layers, 
 and between every layer put a handful of brown mus- 
 tard-seed. Then take as much ale allegar as you think 
 will cover it, and to every four quarts of allegar put an 
 ounce of turmeric. Boil them together, and put it hot 
 upon your pickle. Let it stand twelve days upon the 
 hearth, or till the pickles are of a bright yellow colour, 
 and most of the allegar sucked up. Then take two 
 quarts of strong ale allegar, an ounce of mace, the same 
 of white pepper, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, and 
 the same of long pepper and nutmeg. Beat them all 
 together, and boil them ten minutes in the allegar. 
 Then pour it upon your pickles, with four ounces of 
 peeled garlic. Tie it close down, and set it by for use. 
 
 Asparagus. 
 
 Get the largest asparagus you can, cut off the white 
 ends, and wash the green ends in spring water. Then 
 put them into a pan of clean water, and let them lie in 
 it two or three hours. Put as much spring water into 
 a stew-pan as will nearly fill it, and throw in a large 
 
236 
 
 PICKLING. 
 
 handful of salt. Set it on the fire, and when it boils 
 put in your grass, not tied up, but loose, and not too 
 many at a time, lest you break the heads. Just scald 
 them, and no more ; then take them out with a broad 
 skimmer, and lay them on a cloth to cool. Make your 
 pickle with a gallon or more (according to the quantity 
 of your asparagus) of white wine vinegar, and an ounce 
 of bay salt. Boil it, and put your asparagus into your 
 jar. To a gallon of pickle put two nutmegs, a quar- 
 ter of an ounce of mace, and the same quantity of 
 whole white pepper. Pour the pickle hot over the 
 asparagus, and cover them with a linen cloth three or 
 four times double ; and when they have stood a week, 
 boil the pickle again. Let them stand a week longer, 
 then boil the pickle again, and put it on hot as before. 
 When they are cold, cover them close, tie them tight 
 down, and keep them in a dry place. 
 
 Parsley pickled Green. 
 
 Make a strong salt and water that will bear an egg, 
 and throw into it a large quantity of curled parsley. 
 Let it stand a week, then take it out to drain, make 
 a fresh salt and water as before, and let it stand an- 
 other week. Then drain it well, put it into spring 
 water, and change it three days successively. Then 
 scald it in hard water till it becomes green, take it out, 
 and drain it quite dry. Boil a quart of distilled vine- 
 gar a few minutes, with two or three blades of mace, 
 a nutmeg sliced, and a shalot or two. When it is 
 quite cold, pour it on your parsley, with two or three 
 slices of horse-radish, and keep it for use. 
 
 Peaches. 
 
 Gather your peaches when they are at the full 
 growth, and just before the time of their turning ripe ; 
 and be sure they are not bruised. Take as much 
 spring water as you think will cover them, and make 
 it salt enough to bear an egg, for which purpose you 
 must use an equal quantity of bay and common salt. 
 Then lay in your peaches, and put a thin board over 
 
PICKLING. 
 
 287 
 
 them to keep them under the water. When they 
 have been three days in this state, take them out, wipe 
 them very carefully with a fine soft cloth, and lay 
 them in your jar. Then take as much white wine 
 vinegar as will fill your jar, and to every gallon put one 
 pint of the best well made mustard, two or three heads 
 of garlic, a good deal of ginger sliced, and half an ounce 
 of cloves, mace, and nutmegs. Mix your pickle well 
 together, and pour it over your peaches. Tie them up 
 close, and in two months they will be fit for use. 
 
 Nectarines and apricots must be pickled in the same 
 manner. 
 
 Golden Pippins. 
 
 Take a number of the finest pippins you can pro- 
 cure, free from spots and bruises, put them into a pre- 
 serving-pan with cold spring water, and set them on 
 a charcoal fire. Keep stirring them with a wooden 
 spoon till they will peel, but do not let them boil. 
 When you have peeled them, put them into the water 
 again, with a quarter of a pint of the best vinegar, 
 and a quarter of an ounce of alum. Cover them close 
 with a pewter dish, and set them on a charcoal fire 
 again, but do not let them boil. Keep turning them 
 now and then till they look green, then take them out, 
 and lay them on a cloth to cool. When they are quite 
 cold, put to them the following pickle : to every gal- 
 lon of vinegar put two ounces of mustard-seed, two or 
 three heads of garlic, a good deal of ginger sliced, 
 half an ounce of cloves, mace, and nutmeg. Mix your 
 pickle well together, pour it over your pippins, and 
 cover them close. 
 
 Grapes. 
 
 Let your grapes be of their full growth, but not ripe. 
 Cut them into small bunches fit for garnishing, and 
 put them into a stone jar, with vine-leaves between 
 every layer of grapes. Then take spring water, as 
 much as will cover them, and put into it a pound of 
 bay salt, and as much white salt as will make it bear 
 an egg. Dry your bay salt, and pound it before you 
 
238 
 
 PICKLING. 
 
 put it in, and that will make it melt the sooner. Put 
 it into a pot, and boil and skim it well ; but take off 
 only the black scum. When it has boiled a quarter 
 of an hour, let it stand to cool and settle ; and when 
 it is almost cold pour the clear liquor on the grapes, 
 lay vine-leaves on the top, tie them down close with 
 a linen cloth, and cover them with a dish. Let them 
 stand twenty-four hours, then take them out, lay them 
 on a cloth, cover them over with another, and let them 
 dry between the cloths. Then take two quarts of 
 vinegar, a quart of spring water, and a pomid of coarse 
 sugar. Let it boil a little, skim it very clean as it boils, 
 and let it stand till it is quite cold. Dry your jar with 
 a cloth, put fresh vine-leaves at the bottom and be- 
 tween every bunch of grapes, and on the top. Then 
 pour the clear of the pickle on the grapes, fill your jar 
 that the pickle may be above the grapes, and having 
 tied a thin piece of board in a flannel, lay it on the top 
 of the jar, to keep the grapes under the liquor. Tie 
 them down with a bladder and leather, and when you 
 want them for use, take them out with a wooden spoon. 
 Be careful you tie them up again quite close, for, 
 should the air get in, they will be inevitably spoiled. 
 
 Red Currants. 
 
 Take a quantity of white wine vinegar, and to 
 every quart put in half a pomid of Lisbon sugar. 
 Then pick the worst of your currants and put them 
 into this liquor ; but put the best of your currants into 
 glasses. Then boil your pickle with the worst of your 
 currants, and skim it very clean. Boil it till it looks 
 of a fine colour, and let it stand till it is cold. Then 
 strain it through a cloth, wringing it to get all the co- 
 lour you can from the currants. Let it stand to cool 
 and settle, then pour it clear into the glasses in a little 
 of the pickle, and when it is cold, cover it close with 
 a bladder and leather. To every half pound of sugar 
 put a quarter of a pound of white salt. 
 
 Caveach, or pickled Mackarel. 
 
 Take half a dozen of large mackarel, and cut them 
 
PICKLING. 
 
 289 
 
 into round pieces. Then take an ounce of beaten pep- 
 per, three large nutmegs, a little mace, and a handful 
 of salt. Mix your salt and beaten spice together, then 
 make two or three holes in each piece, and with your 
 linger thrust the seasoning into the holes. Rub the 
 pieces all over with the seasoning, fry them brown in 
 oil, and let them stand till they are cold. Then put 
 them into vinegar, and cover them with oil. If well 
 covered, they will keep a considerable time, and are 
 most delicious eating. 
 
 Smelts. 
 
 At that time of the year when smelts are seasona- 
 bly abundant, take a quarter of a peck of them, and 
 wash, clean, and gut them. Take half an ounce of 
 pepper, the same quantity of nutmegs, a quarter of 
 an ounce of mace, half an ounce of saltpetre, and 
 a quarter of a pound of common salt. Beat all very 
 line, and lay your smelts in rows in a jar. Between 
 every layer of smelts strew T the seasoning, with four 
 or live-bay leaves. Then boil some red wine, and pour 
 over them a sufficient quantity to cover them. Cover 
 them with a plate, and when cold stop them down 
 close, and put them by for use. A few make a very 
 pretty supper. 
 
 Oysters. 
 
 Take two hundred of the newest and best oysters 
 you can get, and be careful to save the liquor in a pan 
 as you open them. Cut off the black verge, saving the 
 rest, and put them into their own liquor. Then put all 
 the liquor and oysters into a kettle, boil them half an 
 hour on a gentle lire, and do them very slowly, skim- 
 ming them as the scum rises. Then take them off the 
 lire, take out the oysters, and strain the liquor through 
 a line cloth. Then put in the oysters again, take out 
 a pint of the liquor when hot, and put thereto three 
 quarters of an ounce of mace, and half an ounce ol 
 cloves. Just give it one boil, then put it to the oys- 
 ters, and stir up the spices well among them. Then 
 
 put in about a spoonful of salt, three quarters of a pint 
 * o rv 
 
PICKLING. 
 
 290 
 
 of the best white wine vinegar, and a quarter of an 
 ounce of whole pepper : let them stand till they are 
 cold, and put the oysters, as many as you well can, in- 
 to the barrel. Put in as much liquor as the barrel 
 will hold, letting them settle awhile, and they will 
 soon be fit to eat. Or you may put them in stone jars, 
 cover them close with a bladder and leather, and be 
 sure they are quite cold before you cover them up. 
 
 In like maimer you may do cockles and muscles, 
 with this difference only, that there is not any thing to 
 be picked off the cockles, and as they are small, the 
 before-mentioned ingredients will be sufficient for two 
 quarts of muscles ; but take great care to pick out the 
 crabs under the tongues, and the little pus which grows 
 at the roots. Both cockles and muscles must be wash- 
 ed in several waters to cleanse them from grit. Put 
 them into a stew-pan by themselves, cover them close, 
 and when they open, pick them out of the shell, from 
 the liquor, and proceed as directed for oysters. 
 
 Artificial Anchovies. 
 
 These must be made in the following manner 
 to a peck of sprats put two pounds of common salt, a 
 quarter of a pound of bay salt, four of saltpetre, two 
 ounces of prunella salt, and a small quantity of cochineal 
 Pound all in a mortar, put them into a stone-pan, a row 
 of sprats, then a layer of your compound, and so on 
 alternately to the top. Press them hard down, cover 
 them close, let them stand six months, and they will 
 be fit for use. Remember that your sprats are as fresh 
 as you can possibly get them, and that you neither 
 wash or wipe them, but do them as they come out of 
 the water. 
 
 Ox Palates. 
 
 Wash the palates well with salt and water, and 
 put them into a pipkin with some clean salt and water. 
 When they are ready to boil, skim them well, and put 
 to them as much pepper, cloves, and mace, as will give 
 them a quick taste. When they are boiled tender, 
 which will require four or five hours, peel them, and 
 
COLLARING. 
 
 291 
 
 cut them into small pieces, and let them cool. Then 
 make the pickle of an equal quantity of white wine 
 and vinegar. Boil the pickle, and put in the spices 
 that were boiled in the palates. When both the pickle 
 and palates are cold, lay your palates in a jar, and put 
 to them a few bay-leaves, and a little fresh spice. 
 Pour the pickle over them, cover them close, and keep 
 them for use. 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 COLLARING. 
 
 ONE very material thing to be generally and indis- 
 pensably observed in the business of collaring any kind > 
 of meat is, that you roll it up well, and bind it as tight 
 as possible, otherwise when it is cut it will break in 
 pieces, and its beauty be entirely lost. Be careful that 
 you boil it enough, but not too much, and let it be quite 
 cold before you put it into the pickle. After it has 
 lain all night in the pickle, take off the binding, put it 
 into a dish, and when it is cut, the skin will look clear, 
 and the meat have its proper solidity. 
 
 Venison. 
 
 Bone a side of venison, take away all the sinews, 
 and cut it into square collars of what size you please. 
 It will make two or three collars. Lard it with fat 
 clear bacon, and cut your lard as big as the top of your 
 finger, and three or four inches long. Season your 
 venison with pepper, salt, cloves, and nutmeg. Roll 
 up your collars, and tie them close with coarse tape ; 
 then put them into deep pots wuth seasonings at the 
 bottoms, some fresh butter, and three or four bay- 
 leaves. Put the rest of the seasoning and butter on 
 the top, and over that some beef-suet, finely shred and 
 beaten. Then cover up your pots with coarse paste, 
 and bake them four or five hours. After that take 
 them out of the oven, and let them stand a little, take 
 out your venison, and let it drain well from the gravy ; 
 
292 
 
 COLLARING. 
 
 add more butter to the fat, and set it over a gentle fire 
 to clarify. Then take it off, let it stand a little, and 
 skim it well. Make your pots clean, or have pots ready 
 fit for each collar. Put a little seasoning and some of 
 your clarified butter at the bottom ; then put in your 
 venison, and fillup your pot with clarified butter, and 
 be sure that your butter be an inch above the meat. 
 When it is thoroughly cold, tie it down with double 
 paper, and lay a tile on the top. They will keep six 
 or eight months ; and you may, when you use a pot, 
 put it for a minute into boiling water, and it will come 
 out whole. Let it stand till it is cold, stick it round 
 with bay-leaves, and a sprig at the top, and serve it 
 up. 
 
 Breast of Veal. 
 
 Bone your veal, and beat it a little. Rub it over 
 with the yolk of an egg, and strew' on it a little beaten 
 mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt : a large handful of 
 parsley chopped small, with a few sprigs of sweet mar- 
 jorum, a little lemon-peel shred fine, an anchovy chop- 
 ped small, and mixed with a few crumbs of bread. 
 Roll it up very tight, bind it hard with a fillet, and 
 wrap it in a clean cloth. Boil it two hours and a half 
 in soft w ater, and when it is enough, hang it up by one 
 end, and make a pickle for it, consisting of a pint of 
 salt and water, with half a pint of vinegar. Before you 
 send it to table, cut off a slice at each of the ends. 
 Garnish with pickles and parsley. 
 
 Breast of Mutton. 
 
 Pare off the skin of a breast of mutton, and with a 
 sharp knife nicely take out all the bones, but be care- 
 ful you do not cut through the meat. Pick all the fat 
 and meat off the bones, then grate some nutmeg all 
 over the inside of the mutton, a very little beaten mace, 
 a little pepper and salt, a few sweet herbs shred small, 
 a few crumbs of bread, and the bits of fat picked off 
 the bones. Roll it up tight, stick a skewer in to hold 
 it together, but do it in such a manner that the collar 
 may stand upright in the dish. Tie a packthread 
 
COLLARING. 
 
 293 
 
 across it to hold it together, spit it, then roll the caul 
 of a breast of veal all round it, and roast it. When it 
 has been about an hour at the fire, take off the caul, 
 dredge it with flour, baste it well with fresh butter, and 
 let it be of a fine brown. It will require on the whole, 
 an hour and a quarter roasting. For sauce take some 
 gravy beef, cut and hack it well, then flour it, and fry 
 it a little brown. Pour into your stew -pan some boil- 
 ing w T ater, stir it well together, and then fill your pan 
 half full of water. Put in an onion, a bunch of sw 7 eet 
 
 herbs, a little crust of bread toasted, two or three 
 blades of mace, four cloves, some w 7 hole pepper, and 
 the bones of the mutton. Cover it close, and let it 
 stew 7 till it is quite rich and thick. Then strain it, 
 boil it up with some truffles and morels, a few mush- 
 rooms, a spoonful of catsup, and (if you have them) 
 tw 7 o or three bottoms of artichokes. Put just enough 
 salt to season the gravy, take the packthread off the 
 mutton, and, set it upright in the dish. Cut the sweet- 
 bread into four pieces, and boil it of a fine brow r n, and 
 have ready a few forcemeat balls fried. Lay these 
 round your dish, and pour in the sauce. Garnish with 
 sliced lemon. 
 
 Beef. 
 
 Take a piece of thin flank of beef, and bone it; cut 
 off the skin, and salt it w 7 ith two ounces of saltpetre, 
 two ounces of sal prunella, the same quantity of bay- 
 salt, half a pound of coarse sugar, and tw 7 o pounds of 
 common salt. Beat the hard salts very fine, and mix 
 all together. Turn it every day, and rub it w 7 ell with 
 the brine for eight days ; then take it out, w 7 ash it, 
 and wipe it dry. Take a quarter of an ounce of cloves, 
 a quarter of an ounce of mace, twelve corns of allspice, 
 and a nutmeg beat very fine, with a spoonful of beaten 
 pepper, a large quantity of chopped parsley, and some 
 sweet herbs shred fine. Sprinkle this mixture on the 
 beef, and roll it up very tight ; put a coarse cloth round 
 it, and tie it very tight with beggar's tape. Boil it in 
 a copper of water, and if it is a large collar, it will 
 take six hours boiling, but a small one will be done in 
 
294 
 
 COLLARING. 
 
 five. When it is done, take it out, and put it into a 
 press ; but if you have not that convenience, put it be- 
 tween two boards, with a weight on the uppermost, 
 and let it remain in that state till it is thoroughly cold. 
 Then take it out of the cloth, cut it into thin slices, lav 
 them on a dish, and serve them to table. Garnish 
 your dish with raw parsley. 
 
 Calf's Head. 
 
 Take a calf ’s head with the skin on, scald off the 
 hair, take out all the bones carefully from the neck, and 
 lav it some time in warm milk to make it look white. 
 Boil the tongue, peel it, cut that and the palate into 
 thin slices, and put them and the eyes into the middle 
 of the head. Take some pepper, salt, cloves, and 
 mace, and beat them fine ; and add to them some grated 
 nutmeg, scalded parsley, thyme, savory, and sweet 
 marjoram, cut very small. Beat up the yolks of three 
 or four eggs, spread them over the head, and then 
 strew on the seasoning. Roll it up very tight, tie it 
 round with tape, and boil it gently for three hours in 
 as much water as will cover it. When you take it out, 
 season the pickle with salt, pepper, and spice, and add 
 to it a pint of white wine vinegar. When it is cold 
 put in the collar, and cut it in handsome slices when 
 you send it to table. 
 
 Pi# 
 
 Bone your pig, and then rub it all over with pep- 
 per and salt beaten fine, a few sage leaves, and sweet 
 herbs chopped small. Roll it up tight, and bind it 
 with a fillet. Fill your boiler with soft water, put in a 
 bunch of sweet herbs, a few pepper-corns, a blade or 
 two of mace, eight or ten cloves, a handful of salt, and 
 a pint of vinegar. When it boils, put in your pig, and 
 let it boil till it is tender. Then take it up, and when 
 it is almost cold, bind it over again, put it into an 
 earthen pot, and pour the liquor your pig was boiled 
 in upon it. Be careful to cover it close down after you 
 cut any for use. 
 
Eels. 
 
 When you have thoroughly cleansed your eel, cut 
 off the head, tail, and fins, and take out the bones. 
 Lay it flat on the back, and then grate over it a small 
 nutmeg, with two or three blades of mace beat fine, 
 and a little pepper and salt, and strew on these a hand 
 lul of parsley shred fine, with a few sage leaves chop- 
 ped small. Roll it up tight in a cloth, and bind it tight. 
 If it is of a middle size, boil it in salt and water three 
 quarters of an hour, and hang it up all night to drain. 
 Add to the pickle a pint of vinegar, a few pepper-corns, 
 and a sprig of sweet marjoram ; boil it ten minutes, 
 and let it stand till the next day. Then take off the 
 cloth, and put your eels into the pickles. When you 
 send them to table, lay them either whole in the plate, 
 or cut them in slices. Garnish with green parsley. 
 Lampreys may be done in the same manner. 
 
 Mackarel. 
 
 Gut your mackarel, and slit them down the belly; 
 cut off their heads, take out the bones, and be careful 
 not to cut them in holes. Then lay them flat upon 
 their backs, season them with mace, nutmeg, pepper, 
 and salt, and a handful of parsley shred fine ; strew it 
 over them, roll them tight, and tie them well separate- 
 ly in cloths. Boil them gently twenty minutes in 
 vinegar, salt, and water, then take them out, put them 
 into a pot, and pour the liquor on them, or the cloth 
 will stick to the fish. Take the cloth off the fish the 
 next day, put a little more vinegar to the pickle, and 
 keep them for use. When you send them to table gar- 
 nish with fennel and parsley, and put some of the liquor 
 under them. 
 
 Salmon . 
 
 Take a side of salmon, cut off the tail, then wash 
 the fleshy part well, and dry it with a cloth. Rub it 
 over with the yolks of eggs, and make some forcemeat 
 with what you cut oft’ at the tail encj. Take off the skin, 
 and put to it some parboiled oysters, a tail or two of 
 lohsters, the yolks of three or four eggs boiled hard, six 
 
POTTING. 
 
 296 
 
 anchovies, a handful of sweet herbs chopped small, a 
 little salt, cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper, and grated 
 bread. Work all these well together, with yolks of 
 eggs, lay it over the fleshy part, and strew on it a little 
 pepper and salt. Then roll it up into a collar, and 
 bind it with broad tape. Boil it in water, salt, and 
 vinegar, but let the liquor boil before you put it in, 
 and throw in a bunch of sweet herbs, with some sliced 
 ginger and nutmeg. Let it boil gently near two hours, 
 and then take it up. Put it into a pan, and when 
 the pickle is cold, put it to your salmon, and let it lay 
 in it till wanted. If you cover it with clarified butter, 
 it will keep a considerable time. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 P O T T I JY G. 
 
 IN this mode of cookery, be sure to make it a rule, 
 that whatever you do it is well covered with clarified 
 butter before you send it to the oven, tie it close with 
 strong paper, and let it be well baked. When it comes 
 from the oven, pick out every bit of skin you can, and 
 drain away the gravy, otherwise the article potted 
 will be apt to turn sour. Beat your seasoning very 
 fine, and strew it on gradually. Before you put it 
 into your pot, press it well, and before you put on your 
 clarified butter, let it be perfectly cold. 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 MEAT and POULTRY. 
 
 Venison. 
 
 Rub your venison all over with red wine; season 
 it with beaten mace, pepper and salt; put it into an 
 t ' then dish, and ppur over it half a pint of red wine, 
 and a pound of butter, and then send it to the oven, 
 if it be a shoulder, put a coarse paste over it, and let 
 
POTTING. 
 
 297 
 
 it lay in the oven all night. When it comes out, pick 
 the meat clean from the bones, and beat it in a marble 
 mortar, with the fat from your gravy. If you find it 
 not sufficiently seasoned, add more, with clarified but- 
 ter, and keep beating it till it becomes like a fine paste. 
 Then press it hard down into your pots, pour clarified 
 butter over it, and keep it in a dry place. 
 
 Hares. 
 
 Case your hare, wash it thoroughly clean, then cut 
 it up as you would do for eating ; put it into a pot, and 
 season it with pepper, salt, and mace. Put on it a 
 pound of butter, tie it down close, and bake it in a 
 bread oven. When it comes out, pick the meat clean 
 from the bones, and pound it very fine in a mortar, 
 with the fat from your gravy. Then put it close down 
 in your pots, and pour over it clarified butter. 
 
 Marble Veal. 
 
 Boil, skin, and cut a dried tongue as thin as possi- 
 ble, and beat it well with near a pound of butter, and 
 a little beaten mace, till it is like a paste. Have rea- 
 dy some veal stewed, and beat in the same manner. 
 Then put some veal into potting-pots, thin some tongue 
 in lumps over the veal. Do not lay on your tongue 
 in any form, but let it be in lumps, and it will then cut 
 like marble. Fill your pot close up with veal, press 
 it very hard down, and pour clarified butter over it. 
 Remember to keep it in a dry place, and when you 
 send it to table, cut it into slices. Garnish it with 
 parsley. 
 
 Tongues 
 
 Take a fine neat's tongue, and rub it well over 
 with an ounce of saltpetre and four ounces of brown su- 
 gar, and let it lie two days. Then boil it till it is quite 
 tender, and take off the skin and side bits. Cut the 
 tongue in very thin slices, and beat it in a marble mor- 
 tar with a pound of clarified butter, and season it to 
 your taste with pepper, salt, and^ mace. Beat all as 
 fine as possible, then press it close down in small pot- 
 jhng-pots, and pour over them clarified butter. 
 
 No, 13. 2 P 
 
298 
 
 POTTING. 
 
 Geese and Fowls. 
 
 Boil a dried tongue till it is tender; then take a 
 goose and a large fowl, and bone them. Take a quar- 
 ter of an ounce of mace, the same quantity of olives, a 
 large nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of black pepper, 
 and beat all well together, add to these a spoonful of 
 salt, and rub the tongue and inside of the fowl well 
 with them. Put the tongue into the fowl, then season 
 the goose, and fill it with the fowl and tongue, and the 
 goose will look as if it was whole. Lay it in a pan 
 that will just hold it, melt fresh butter enough to cover 
 it, send it to the oven, and bake it an hour and a half. 
 Then take out the meat, drain the butter carefully 
 from it, and lay it on a coarse cloth till it is cold. 
 Then take off the hard fat from the gravy, and lay it 
 before the fire to melt. Put your meat again into the 
 pot, and pour your butter over it. If there is not 
 enough, clarify more, and let the butter be an inch 
 above the meat. It will keep a great while, cut fine, 
 and look beautiful, and when you cut it let it be cross- 
 ways. It makes a very pretty corner-dish for dinner, 
 or side-dish for supper. 
 
 Beef. 
 
 Take half a pound of brown sugar, and an ounce 
 of saltpetre, and rub it into twelve pounds of beef. 
 Let it lie twenty-four hours; then wash it clean, and 
 dry it well with a cloth. Season it to your taste with 
 pepper, salt, and mace, and cut it into five or six pieces. 
 Put it into an earthen pot, with a pound of butter 
 in lumps upon it, set it in a hot oven, and let it stand 
 three hours, then take it out, cut off the hard outsides, 
 and beat it in a mortar. Add to it a little more pep- 
 per, salt, and mace. Then oil a pound of butter in the 
 gravy and fat that came from your beef, and put in as 
 you find necessary; but beat the meat very fine. 
 Then put it into your pot, press it close down, pour 
 clarified butter over it, and keep it in a dry place. 
 
 Another method of potting beef, and which will 
 greatly imitate venison, is this : Take a buttock of 
 beef, and cut the lean of it into pieces of about s 
 
POTTING. 
 
 299 
 
 pound weight each. To eight pounds of beef take 
 four ounces of saltpetre, the same quantity of bay-salt, 
 half a pound of white salt, and an ounce of sal pru- 
 nella. Beat all the salt very fine, mix them well to- 
 gether, and rub them into the beef. Then let it lie 
 four days, turning it twice a day. After that put it 
 into a pan, and cover it with pump water, and a little 
 of its own brine. Send it to the oven, and bake it till 
 it is tender ; then drain it from the gravy, and take out 
 all the skin and sinews. Pound the meat well in a 
 mortar, lay it in a broad dish, and mix on it an ounce 
 of cloves and mace, three quarters of an ounce of pep- 
 per, and a nutmeg, all beat very fine. Mix the whole 
 well with the meat, and add a little clarified fresh butter 
 to moisten it. Then press it down into pots very hard, 
 set them at the mouth of the oven just to settle, and 
 then cover them two inches thick with clarified butter. 
 When quite cold, cover the pots over with white pa- 
 per tied close, and set them in a dry place. It will 
 keep good a considerable time. 
 
 Pigeons. 
 
 Pi ck and draw your pigeons, cut off the pinions, 
 wash them clean, and put them in a sieve to drain. 
 Then dry them with a cloth, and season them with 
 pepper and salt. Roll a lump of butter in chopped 
 parsley, and put it into the pigeons. Sew up the vents, 
 then put them into a pot with butter over them, tie 
 them down, and set them in a moderately heated oven. 
 When they come out, put them into your pots, and 
 pour clarified butter over them. 
 
 Woodcocks. 
 
 Take six woodcocks, pluck them, and draw out 
 the train. Skewer their bills through their thighs, 
 put their legs through each other, and their feet upon 
 their breasts. Season them with three or four blades 
 of mace, and a little pepper and salt. Then put them 
 into a deep pot, with a pound of butter over them, 
 and tie a strong paper over them. Bake them in a 
 
300 
 
 FISH. 
 
 moderate oven, and when they are enough, lay them 
 on a dish to drain the gravy from them, then put them 
 into potting-pots ; take all the clear butter from your 
 gravy, and put it upon them. Fill up your pots with 
 clarified butter. Keep them in a dry place for use. 
 Snipes must be done in the same manner. 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Take a large eel, and when you have skinned, 
 washed clean, and thoroughly dried it w 7 ith a cloth, 
 cut it into pieces about four inches long. Season them 
 with a little beaten mace and nutmeg, pepper, salt, 
 and a little sal prunella beat fine. Lay them in a pan, 
 and pour as much clarified butter over them as will 
 cover them. Bake them half an hour in a quick oven ; 
 but the size of your eels must be the general rule to 
 determine what time they will take baking. T ake 
 them out with a fork, and lay them on a coarse cloth 
 to drain. When they are quite cold, season them again 
 with the like seasoning, and lay them close in the pot. 
 Then take off the butter they were baked in clear from 
 the gravy of the fish, and set it in a dish before the fire. 
 When it is melted, pour the butter over them, and 
 put them by for use. You may bone your eels, if you 
 choose ; but in that case you must put in no sal prunella. 
 
 Salmon. 
 
 Take a large piece of fresh salmon, scale it, and 
 wipe it clean. Then season it with Jamaica pepper, 
 black pepper, mace, and cloves, beat fine, and mixed 
 with salt, and a little sal prunella : then pour clarified 
 butter over it, and bake it well. When it is done, take 
 it out carefully, and lay it on a cloth to drain. As 
 soon as it is quite cold, season it again, lay it close in 
 your pot, and cover it w ith clarified butter. Or you 
 may pot it in this manner : 
 
 Scale and clean a whole salmon, slit it dowm the 
 back, dry it w ell, and cut it as near the shape of your 
 
FISH. 
 
 301 
 
 pot as you can. Then take two nutmegs, an ounce 
 of mace and cloves beaten, half an ounce of white 
 pepper, and an ounce of salt. Then take out all the 
 bones, cut off the tail and the head below the fins. 
 Season the scaly side first, and lay that at the bottom 
 of the pot ; then rub the seasoning on the other side, 
 cover it with a dish, and let it stand all night. It must 
 be put double, and the scaly sides top and bottom. 
 Put some butter at the bottom and top, and cover the 
 pot with some stiff coarse paste. If it is a large fish, 
 it will require three hours baking; but if a small one, 
 two hours will be sufficient. When it comes out of 
 the oven, let it stand half an hour, then uncover it, 
 raise it up at one end that the gravy may run out, 
 and put a trencher and w T eight on it effectually to an- 
 swer this purpose. When the butter is cold take it 
 out clear from the gravy, add more butter to it, and 
 put it in a pan before the fire. When it is melted 
 pour it over the salmon, and as soon as it is cold, pa- 
 per it up, put it in a dry place, and it will keep a con- 
 siderable time. Carp, tench, trout, and several other 
 sorts of fish, may be potted in the same manner. 
 
 Lobster. 
 
 Boil a live lobster in salt and water, and stick a 
 skewer in the vent to prevent the water getting in. 
 As soon as it is cold, take out all the flesh, beat it fine 
 in a mortar, and season it with beaten mace, grated 
 nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Mix all together, melt a 
 piece of butter the size of a walnut, and mix it with 
 the lobster as you beat it. When it is beat to a paste, 
 put it into your pot, and press it down as close and 
 hard as you can. Then set some butter in a deep broad 
 pan before the fire, and when it is all melted, take off 
 the scum at the top, if any, and pour the clear butter 
 over the fish as thick as a crown-piece. The whey 
 and churn-milk will settle at the bottom of the pan ; 
 but take care that none of that goes in, and always 
 let your butter be very good, or you will spoil all. If 
 vou choose it, you may put in the meat whole, with the 
 
302 
 
 CURING. 
 
 body mixed among it, laying them as close together as 
 jrou can, and pouring the butter over them. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIY. 
 
 CURING VARIOUS KINDS OF MEATS, SOUSINGS, (SfC. 
 
 Hams. 
 
 CUT off a fine ham from a fat hind quarter of pork. 
 Take two ounces of saltpetre, a pound of coarse sugar, 
 a pound of common salt, and two ounces of sal pru- 
 nella ; mix all together, and rub it w 7 ell. Let it lie 
 a month in this pickle, turning and basting it every 
 day; then hang it in a wood smoke in a dry place, so 
 that no heat comes to it; and, if you intend to keep 
 them long, hang them a month or two in a damp place, 
 and it will make them cut fine and short. Never lay 
 these hams in water till you boil them, and then boil 
 them in a copper, if you have one, or the largest pot 
 you have. Put them into the water cold, and let them 
 be four or five hours before they boil. Skim the pot 
 ’well, and often, till it boils. If it is a very large one, 
 three hours will boil it ; if a small one, tw T o hours will 
 do, provided it is a great while before the water boils. 
 Take it up half an hour before dinner, pull off the 
 skin, and throw raspings, finely sifted, all over. Hold 
 a red-hot salamander over it, and when dinner is rea- 
 dy, take a few 7 raspings in a sieve, and sift all over the 
 dish, then lay in your ham, and with your finger make 
 figures round the edge of your dish. Be sure to boil 
 your ham in as much water as you can, and keep skim- 
 ming it all the time it boils. The pickle you take your 
 ham out of will do finely for tongues. Let them lay 
 in it a fortnight, and then lay them in a place where 
 there is wood smoke, to dry. When you broil any 
 slices of ham or bacon, have some boiling water ready, 
 let them lay a minute or two in it, and then put them 
 on a gridiron. This is a very good method, as it 
 takes out the violence of the salt, and makes them 
 have a fine flavour. 
 
CURING. 
 
 303 
 
 Hams the Yorkshire Way . 
 
 Mix well together half a peck of salt, three ounces 
 of saltpetre, half an ounce of sal prunella, and five 
 pounds of very coarse salt. Rub the hams well with 
 this : put them into a large pan or pickling-tub, and lay 
 the remainder on the top. Let them lie three days, 
 and then hang them up. Put as much water to the 
 pickle as will cover the hams, adding salt till it will 
 bear an egg, and then boil and strain it. The next 
 morning put in the hams, and press them down so that 
 they may be covered. Let them lay a fortnight, then 
 rub them well with bran, and dry them. The quan- 
 tity of ingredients here directed, is for doing three 
 middle-sized hams at once, so that if you do only one, 
 you must proportion the quantity of each article. 
 
 New England Hams. 
 
 Get two fine hams, and in the mode of cure for this 
 purpose, proceed as follows : take two ounces of sal 
 prunella, beat it fine, rub it well in, and let them lie 
 twenty-four hours. Then take half a pound of bay- 
 salt, a quarter of a pound of common salt, and one 
 ounce of saltpetre, all beat fine, and half a pound of the 
 coarsest sugar. Rub all these well in, and let them 
 lie two or three days. Then take some white com- 
 mon salt, and make a pretty strong brine, with about 
 two gallons of water and half a pound of brown sugar. 
 Boil it well, and scum it when cold ; put in the hams, 
 and turn them every two or three days in the pickle 
 for three weeks. Then hang them up in a chimney, 
 and smoke them well a day or two with horse litter. 
 Afterwards let them hang about a week on the side of 
 the kitchen chimney, and then take them down. Keep 
 them dry in a large box, and cover them well with 
 bran. They will keep good in this state for a year, 
 though if wanted, may be used in a month. 
 
 Bacon. 
 
 Take off all the inside fat of a side of pork, and lay 
 it on a long board or dresser, that the blood may run 
 
304 
 
 CURING. 
 
 from it. Rub it well on both sides with good salt, and 
 let it lie a day. Then take a pint of bay-salt, a quar- 
 ter of a pound of saltpetre, and beat them both fine; 
 two pounds of coarse sugar, and a quarter of a peck of 
 common salt. Lay your pork in something that will 
 hold the pickle, and rub it well with the above ingre- 
 dients. Lay the skinny side downwards, and baste it 
 every day with a pickle for a fortnight. Then hang 
 it in a wood-smoke, and afterwards in a dry but not 
 hot place. Remember that all hams and bacons should 
 hang clear from every thing, and not touch the wall. 
 Take care to wipe olf the old salt before you put it into 
 the pickle, and never keep bacon or hams in a hot 
 kitchen, or in a room exposed to the rays of the sun, as 
 all these matters will greatly contribute to make them 
 rusty. 
 
 Mutton Hams. 
 
 Take a hind quarter of mutton, cut it like a ham, 
 and rub it well with an ounce of saltpetre, a pound of 
 coarse sugar, and a pound of common salt, mixed well 
 together. Lay it in a deepish tray with the skin down- 
 ward, and baste it with the pickle every day for a fort- 
 night. Then roll it in sawdust, and hang it in a wood- 
 smoke for a fortnight. Then boil it, and hang it up in 
 a dry place. You may dress it whole, or cut slices off, 
 and broil them, which will eat well, and have an ex- 
 cellent flavour. 
 
 Beef Hams. 
 
 Cut the leg of a fat Scotch or Welch ox as nearly 
 in the shape of a ham as you can. Take an ounce of 
 bay-salt, an ounce of saltpetre, a pound of common salt, 
 and a pound of coarse sugar, which will be a sufficient 
 quantity for about fourteen or fifteen pounds of beef; 
 and if a greater or less quantity of meat, mix your 
 ingredients in proportion. Pound these ingredients, 
 mix them well together, rub your meat with it, turn it 
 every day, and at the same time baste it well with the 
 pickle. Let it lie in this state for a month, then take 
 it out, roll it in bran or sawdust, and hang it in a wood- 
 smoke for a month. Then take it down, hang it in a 
 
C»iRiNG. 
 
 305 
 
 dry place, and keep it for use. You may dress it in 
 whatever manner you please, and as occasion may re- 
 quire. If you boil a piece of it, and let it be till it is 
 cold, it will eat very good, and shives like Dutch beef; 
 or it is exceeding fine cut into rashers and broiled, 
 with poached eggs laid on the tops. 
 
 Neat's Tongue. 
 
 Scrape your tongue clean, dry it well with a cloth, 
 and then salt it with common salt, and half an ounce 
 of saltpetre well mixed together. Lay it in a deep 
 pan, and turn it every day for a week or ten days. 
 Then turn it again, and let it lay a week longer. Take 
 it out of the pan, dry it with a cloth, strew flour on it, 
 and hang it up in a moderate warm place to dry. 
 
 Hung Beef. 
 
 M are a strong brine with bay-salt, saltpetre, and 
 pump-water; put a rib of beef into it, and let it lay 
 for nine days. Then hang it up a chimney where 
 wood or sawdust is burnt. When it is a little dry, 
 wash the outside with bullock's blood two or three 
 times, to make it look black ; and when it is dry enough 
 boil it, and serve it up with such kind of vegetables as 
 you think proper. 
 
 Another method of preparing hung beef is this : take 
 the navel-piece, and hang it up in your cellar as long 
 as it will keep good, and till it begins to be a little 
 sappy ; then take it down, cut it into three pieces, and 
 wash it in sugar and water, one piece after another. 
 Then take a pound of saltpetre, and two pounds of 
 bay-salt, dried and pounded small. Mix with them 
 two or three spoonsful of brown sugar, and rub your 
 beef well with it in every place. Then strew a suf- 
 ficient quantity of common salt all over it, and let the 
 beef lie close till the salt is dissolved, which will be in 
 six or seven days. Then turn it every other day for a 
 fortnight, and after that hang it up in a warm but not 
 hot place. It may hang a fortnight in the kitchen, 
 and when you want it, boil it in bay-salt and pump- 
 water till it is tender. It will keep when boiled, two 
 No. 13. 2 Q 
 
306 
 
 CURING. 
 
 or three months, rubbing it with a greasy cloth, or 
 putting it two or three minutes into boiling water to 
 take off the mouldiness. 
 
 Dutch Beef. 
 
 Take a buttock of beef, cut off all the fat, and rub 
 the lean all over with brown sugar. Let it lie two or 
 three hours in a pan or tray, and turn it two or 
 three times. Then salt it with saltpetre and common 
 salt, and let it lay a fortnight, turning it every day. 
 After the expiration of this time, roll it very straight 
 in a coarse cloth, put it into a cheese-press for a day 
 and a night, and then hang it to dry in a chimney. 
 When you boil it put it into a cloth, and when cold, 
 it will cut like Dutch beef. 
 
 Hunting Beef. 
 
 Take a pound of salt, two ounces of saltpetre, a 
 quarter of a pound of brown sugar, one ounce of cori- 
 anders, one ounce of cloves, half an ounce of mace, 
 half an ounce of nutmeg, two ounces of allspice, a quar- 
 ter of a pound of pepper, half an ounce of chyan pep- 
 per, and two ounces of ginger ; let the whole be ground 
 and well mixed. Take vour buttock of beef and rub 
 
 t/ 
 
 it well with the spices, and keep turning and rubbing 
 it every day, one month : when your beef is to be done, 
 take a deep pan, put in your beef with plenty of fat 
 over and under, taking care that your beef does not 
 touch the bottom of the pan. Cover your pan down 
 close so that the steam does not come out, which may 
 be prevented by putting a paste to the cover made of 
 flour and water. Send it to the oven, and if moderate 
 it will be done enough in five hours. It should not be 
 taken out of your pan till quite cold ; be sure to have 
 plenty of fat, as there must not be any water put in. 
 
 Pickled Pork. 
 
 Bone your pork, and then cut it into pieces of a 
 size suitable to lay in the pan in which you intend to 
 put it. Rub your pieces first with saltpetre, and then 
 with two pounds of common salt, and two of bay-salt, 
 
SOUSING. 
 
 307 
 
 mixed together. Put a layer of common salt at the 
 bourn ii of your pan or tub, cover every piece over with 
 common sait, and lay them one upon another as even 
 as you can, filling the hollow places on the sides with 
 salt. As your salt melts on the top, strew on more, 
 lay a coarse cloth over the vessel, a board over that, 
 and a weight on the board to keep it down. Cover it 
 close, strew on more salt as may be occasionally 
 necessary, and it will keep good till the very last bit. 
 
 Mock Brawn. 
 
 T ake the head, and a piece of the belly-part of a 
 young porker, and rub them well with saltpetre. Let 
 them lay three days, and then wash them clean. Split 
 the head and boil it, take out the bones, and cut it into 
 pieces. Then take four cow-heels boiled tender, cut 
 them in thin pieces, and lay them in the belly-piece 
 of pork, with the head cut small. Then roll it up 
 tight with sheet-tin, and boil it four or five hours. 
 When it comes out, set it up on one end, put a 
 trencher on it within the tin, press it down w T ith a large 
 weight, and let it stand all night. Next morning take 
 it out of the tin, and bind it with a fillet. Put it into 
 cold salt and water, and it will be fit for use. If you 
 change the salt and water every four days, it will keep 
 for a long time. 
 
 Turkey soused in Imitation of Sturgeon. 
 
 Dress a fine large turkey, dry and bone it, then 
 tie it up as you do a sturgeon, and put it into the pot, 
 with a quart of white wine, a quart of water, the same 
 quantity of good vinegar, and a large handful of salt; 
 but remember that the wine, water, and vinegar, must 
 boil before you put in the turkey, and that the pot 
 must be well skimmed before it boils. When it is 
 enough, take it out, and tie it tighter; but let the 
 liquor boil a little longer. If you think the pickle 
 wants more vinegar or salt, add them when it is 
 cold, and pour it upon the turkey. If you keep it 
 covered close from the air, and in a cool dry place, it 
 
308 
 
 SOCSi flG. 
 
 will be equally good for some months. Some admire it 
 more than sturgeon, and it is generally eaten with oil, 
 vinegar, and sugar, for sauce. 
 
 To make fine Sausages. 
 
 Take six pounds of young pork, free from skin, 
 gristles, and fat. Cut it very small, and beat it in a 
 mortar till it is very fine. Then shred six pounds of 
 beef-suet very fine, and free from all skin. Take a 
 good deal of sage, wash it very clean, pick off the 
 leaves, and shred it fine. Spread your meat on a clean 
 dresser or table, and then shake the sage all over it, 
 to the quantity of about three large spoonsful. Shred 
 the thin rind of a middling lemon very fine, and throw 
 them over the meat, and also as many sweet herbs as, 
 when shred fine, will fill a large spoon. Grate over it 
 two nutmegs, and put to it two tea-spoonsful of pep- 
 per, and a large spoonful of salt. Then throw over it 
 the suet, and mix all well together. Put it down close 
 in a pot, and when you use it, roll it up with as much 
 egg as will make it roll smooth. Make them of the 
 size of a sausage, and fry them in butter, or good drip- 
 ping. Be careful the butter is hot before you put them 
 in, and keep rolling them about while they are doing. 
 When they are thoroughly hot, and of a fine light 
 brown, take them out, put them into a dish, and serve 
 them up. Veal mixed with pork, and done in this man- 
 ner, eats exceeding fine. 
 
 Oxford Sausages. 
 
 Take a pound of young pork, fat and lean, with- 
 out skin or gristle, a pound of lean veal, and a pound 
 of beef-suet, chopped all fine together ; put in half a 
 pound of grated bread, half the peel of a lemon shred 
 fine, a nutmeg grated, six sage-leaves washed and 
 chopped very fine, a tea-spoonful of pepper and two 
 of salt, some thyme, savory, and marjoram, shred fine. 
 Mix all well together, and put it close down in a pan 
 till you use it. Roll it out the size of a common sau- 
 sage, and fry them in fresh butter of a fine brown, or 
 broil them over a clear fire, and send them to table as 
 hot as possible. 
 
SO 9 
 
 CHAPTER XXY. 
 
 METHODS OF KEEPING VEGETABLES, FRUITS, <fyc. 
 
 To keep Green Peas till Christmas . 
 
 PEAS for this purpose must be chosen very fine, 
 young and fresh gathered. Shell them, and put 
 them into boiling water with some salt in it. When 
 they have boiled five or six minutes, throw them into 
 a cullender to drain. Then lay a cloth four or five 
 times double on a table, and spread them on it. Dry 
 them well, and having your bottles ready, fill them 
 and cover them with mutton-fat fried. Cork them as 
 close as possible, tie a bladder over them, and set 
 them in a cool place. When you use them, boil the 
 water, put in a little salt, some sugar, and a piece of 
 butter. As soon as they are enough, throw them into 
 a sieve to drain ; then put them into a saucepan with 
 a good piece of butter, keep shaking it round till the 
 butter is all melted, then turn them into a dish, and 
 send them to table. 
 
 To keep Gooseberries. 
 
 Put an ounce of roche-alum, beat very fine, into a 
 large pan of boiling hard water. When you have 
 picked your gooseberries, put a few of them into the 
 bottom of a hair sieve, and hold them in the boiling 
 water till they turn white. Then take out the sieve, 
 and spread the gooseberries between two clean cloths. 
 Put more gooseberries in your sieve, and then repeat 
 it till they are done. Put the water into a glazed pot 
 till next day ; then put your gooseberries into wide- 
 mouthed bottles, pick out all the cracked and broken 
 ones, pour the water clear out of the pot, and fill your 
 bottles with it. Then cork them loosely, and let them 
 stand a fortnight. If they rise to the corks, draw them 
 out, and let them stand two or three days uncorked. 
 Then cork them quite close, and they will keep good 
 several months. 
 
 Another method of keeping gooseberries is this : 
 Pick them as large and dry as you can, and having 
 
310 
 
 fruits, Re- 
 taken care that your bottles are clean and drv, fill and 
 cork them. Set them in a kettle of water up to the 
 neck, and let the water boil very slowlv till you find 
 the gooseberries are coddled ; then take them out, and 
 put in the rest of the bottles t il all are done. Have 
 ready some rosin melted in a pipkin, and dip the necks 
 of the bottles into it, which will prevent all air from 
 getting in at the cork. Keep them in a cool dry place, 
 and when you use them they will bake as red as a 
 cherry, and have their natural flavour. 
 
 To keep Mushrooms. 
 
 Take large buttons, wash them in the same man- 
 ner as for stewing, and lay them on sieves with the 
 stalks upwards. Throw over them some salt, to draw 
 out the water. When they are properly drained, put 
 them into a pot, and set them in a cool oven for an 
 hour. Then take them out carefully, and lay them to 
 cool and drain. Boil the liquor that comes out of them 
 with a blade or two of mace, and boil it half away. 
 Put your mushrooms into a clean jar well dried, and 
 when the liquor is cold, pour it into the jar, and cover 
 your mushrooms with it. Then pour over them ren- 
 dered suet; tie a bladder over the jar, and set them 
 in a dry closet, where they will keep very well the 
 greater part of the winter. When you use them, take 
 them out of the liquor, pour over them boiling milk, 
 and let them stand an hour. Then stew them in the 
 milk a quarter of an hour, thicken them with flour, and 
 a large quantity of butter; but be careful you do not 
 oil it. Then beat the yolks of two eggs in a little 
 cream, and put it into the stew ; but do not let it boil 
 after you have put in the eggs. Lay unroasted sippets 
 round the inside of the dish, then serve them up, and 
 they w ill eat nearly as good as when fresh gathered. 
 If they do not taste strong enough, put in a little of 
 the liquor. This is a very useful liquor, as it w ill give 
 a strong flavour of fresh mushrooms to all made dishes. 
 
 To Bottle Damsons . 
 
 Take your damsons before they are too ripe, put 
 
311 
 
 POSSETS, <$*C. 
 
 them into wide-monthed bottles, and cork them down 
 tight ; then put them into a moderate oven, and about 
 three hours will do them. You must be careful your 
 oven is not too hot, or it will make your fruit fly. All 
 kinds of fruits that are bottled may be done in the same 
 way, and if well done w T ill keep tw r o years. After they 
 are done they must be put away, with the mouth down- 
 ward, in a cool place, to keep them from fermenting. 
 
 * # * Remember, that every species of the vegetable 
 tribe designed for future use, at times out of the natural 
 season, must be kept in dry places, as damps will not 
 only cover them with mould, but will also deprive them 
 of their fine flavour. It must likewise be observed, 
 that while you endeavour to avoid putting them into 
 damp places, you do not place them where they may 
 get w r arm, w hich will be equally detrimental ; so that a 
 proper attention must be paid to the observance of a ju- 
 dicious medium. When you boil any dried vegetables, 
 always allow them plenty of water. 
 
 CHAPTER XXYI. 
 
 POSSETS, GRUELS, $c. 
 
 Sack Possets. 
 
 BEAT up the yolks and whites of fifteen eggs, and 
 then strain them; then put three quarters of a pound 
 of white sugar into a pint of canary, and mix it with 
 your eggs in a basin; set it over a chafing-dish of 
 coals, and keep continually stirring it till it is scalding 
 hot. In the mean time grate some nutmeg in a quart 
 of milk, and boil it, and then pour it into your eggs, 
 and wine while they are scalding hot. As you pour it 
 hold your hand very high, and let another person keep 
 stirring it all the time. Then take it off, set it before 
 the fire half an hour, and serve it up. 
 
 Another method of making sack-posset is this : take 
 four Naples biscuits, and crumble them into a quart of 
 new milk when it boils. Just give it a boil, take it 
 off, grate in some nutmegs, and sweeten it to your 
 
312 
 
 POSSES, #C. 
 
 palate. Then pour in half a pint of sack, keep stir- 
 ring it all the time, put it into your basin, and send it 
 to table. 
 
 Wine Posset. 
 
 Boil the crumb of a penny loaf in a quart of milk 
 till it is soft, then take it olf the fire, and grate in half 
 a nutmeg. Put in sugar to your taste, then pour it 
 into a china bowl, and put in by degrees a pint of 
 Lisbon wine. Serve it up with toasted bread upon a 
 plate. 
 
 Ale Posset. 
 
 Take a small piece of white bread, put it into a 
 pint of milk, and set it over the fire. Then put some 
 nutmeg and sugar into a pint of ale, w arm it, and 
 when your milk boils, pour it upon the ale. Let it 
 stand a few* minutes to clear, and it will be fit for use. 
 
 Orange Posset. 
 
 Take the crumb of a penny loaf grated fine, and 
 put it into a pint of w ater, with half the peel of a 
 Seville orange grated, or sugar rubbed upon it to take 
 out the essence. Boil all together till it looks thick and 
 clear. Then take a pint of mountain wine, the juice 
 of half a Seville orange, three ounces of sweet almonds, 
 and one of bitter, beat fine, with a little French bran- 
 dy, and sugar to your taste. Mix all w ell together, 
 put it into your posset, and serve it up. Lemon pos- 
 set must be made in the same manner. 
 
 White Caudle. 
 
 Take two quarts of water, and mix it with four 
 spoonsful of oatmeal, a blade or two of mace, and a 
 piece of lemon-peel. Let it boil, and keep stirring it 
 often. Let it boil a quarter of an hour, and be care- 
 ful not to let it boil over, then strain it through a coarse 
 sieve. When you use it sweeten it to your taste, grate 
 in a little nutmeg, and what wine you think proper; 
 and if it is not for a sick person, squeeze in the juice 
 of a lemon. 
 
 Brown Caudle. 
 
 Mix your gruel as for the w r hite caudle, and when 
 
313 
 
 GRUELS, fyc. 
 
 you have strained it, add a quart of ale that is not 
 hitter. Boil it, then sweeten it to your palate, and 
 add half a pint of white wine or brandy. When you 
 do not put in white wine or brandy, let it be half ale. 
 
 White Wine Whey. 
 
 Put in a large basin half a pint of skimmed milk 
 and half a pint of wine. When it has stood a few mi- 
 nutes, pour in a pint of boiling water. Let it stand a 
 little, and the curd will gather in a lump, and settle at 
 the bottom. Then pour your whey into a china bowl, 
 and put in a lump of sugar, a sprig of balm, or a slice 
 of lemon. 
 
 Water Gruel. 
 
 Put a large spoonful of oatmeal into a pint of water, 
 and stir it well together, and let it boil three or four 
 times, stirring it often ; but be careful it does not boil 
 over. Then strain it through a sieve, salt it to your 
 palate, and put in a good piece of butter. Stir it about 
 with a spoon till the butter is all melted, and it will be 
 fine and smooth. 
 
 Barley Gruel. 
 
 Put a quarter of a pound of pearl-barley, and a 
 stick of cinnamon, into two quarts of water, and let 
 it boil till it is reduced to one quart. Then strain it 
 through a sieve, add a pint of red wine, and sweeten 
 it to your taste. 
 
 Orgeat Paste. 
 
 Take three quarters of a pound of sweet almonds, 
 and a quarter of a pound of bitter almonds, blanch and 
 pound them in your mortar, wetting them from time 
 to time with orange-flower water that they may not oil. 
 When they are pounded very fine, add three quarters 
 of a pound of fine pounded sugar to it, and mix the 
 whole into a stiff paste, and then put it into your pots 
 for use. This paste will keep six months. When you 
 wish to use it, you may take a piece about the size of 
 an egg and mix it with half a pint of water, and squeeze 
 it through a fine napkin. 
 
 'No. i4. 2 R 
 
CHAPTER XXVfl. 
 
 MADE WIJVES, $c. 
 
 A strict and attentive management in the making 
 of these articles is the grand means by which they are 
 to be brought to a proper state of perfection ; and with- 
 out which, labour, expense, and disrepute, will be 
 the final, and disagreeable consequences. To prevent 
 the last, and promote the first, let a due observance be 
 paid to the following general rules : do not let such 
 wines as require to be made with boiling water stand 
 too long after drawn, before you get them cold, and be 
 careful to put in your barm in due time, otherwise it 
 will fret after being put into the cask, and can never 
 be brought to that state of fineness it ought to be. 
 Neither must you let it work too long in the butt, a^ 
 it will be apt to take off the sweetness and flavour of 
 the fruit or flowers from which it is made. Let your 
 vessels be thoroughly clean and dry, and before you 
 put in the wine, give them a rince with a little brandy. 
 When the wine has done fermenting, bung it up close, 
 and after being properly settled, it will draw to your 
 wishes. 
 
 Raisin Wine. 
 
 Put two hundred weight of raisins, with all their 
 stalks into a large hogshead, and fill it up with water. 
 Let them steep a fortnight, stirring them every day. 
 Then pour off the liquor, and press the raisins. Put 
 both liquors together into a nice clean vessel that will 
 just hold it, for remember, it must be quite full. Let 
 it stand till it is done hissing, or making the least noise, 
 then stop it close, and let it stand six months. Then 
 peg it, and if quite clear, rack it off into another ves- 
 sel. Stop it again close, and let it stand three months 
 longer. Then bottle it, and when wanted, rack it off 
 into a decanter. 
 
 An excellent Wine from Smyrna Currants. 
 
 To every gallon of water put two pounds and three 
 quarters of brown sugar, and one pound and a half of 
 
MADE WINES. 
 
 316 
 
 Smyrna currants. Boil the sugar and water for half 
 an hour, and fine it with whites of eggs; when near 
 cold, pnt some fresh barm to it, and let it stand in the 
 tub seven or eight days, stirring it once a day. Cut 
 your currants a little with a chopping knife, then put 
 them into a barrel, and pour the wine on them. Have 
 ready some isinglass dissolved in a little of the wine, 
 and put it into the barrels, stirring it every day for six 
 or eight weeks, then close it up, and in about nine 
 months it will be ready to bottle. 
 
 Currant Wine. 
 
 Gather your fruit on a fine dry day, and when 
 they are quite ripe. Strip them from the stalks, put 
 them into a large pan, and bruise them with a wooden 
 pestle. Let them lay twenty-four hours to ferment, then 
 run the liquor through a hair sieve, but do not let your 
 hands touch it. To every gallon of liquor put two 
 pounds and a half of white sugar, stir it well together, 
 and put it into your vessel. To every six gallons put 
 in a quart of brandy, and let it stand six weeks. If it 
 is then fine, bottle it; but if not, draw T it off as clear as 
 you can into another vessel, or large bottles, and in a 
 fortnight put it into smaller bottles, cork them close, 
 and set it by for use. 
 
 Gooseberry Wine. 
 
 Gather your gooseberries in dry weather, and at 
 the time when they are about half ripe. Gather about 
 a peck in quantity, and bruise them well in a clean tub. 
 Then take a horse-hair cloth, and press them as much 
 as possible without breaking the seeds. When you 
 have squeezed out all the juice, put to every gallon 
 three pounds of fine dry pounded sugar. Stir it all 
 together till the sugar is dissolved, and then put it into 
 a vessel or cask, which must be quite filled. If the 
 quantity is ten or twelve gallons, let it stand a fortnight, 
 but, if it is a twenty gallon cask, it must stand three 
 weeks. Set it in a cool place ; then draw it off from 
 the lees, and pour in the clear liquor again. If it is a 
 
MADE WINES. 
 
 31-3 
 
 ten gallon cask, let it stand three months ; if a twenty 
 gallon cask, four mouths; then bottle it off, and it will 
 draw clear and fine. 
 
 Mulberry Wine. 
 
 Gather your mulberries when they are in the 
 state of changing from red to black, and at that time of 
 the day when they are dry from the dew having been 
 taken off by the heat of the sun. Spread them loose 
 on a cloth, or a clean floor, and let them lay twenty- 
 four hours. Then put them into a convenient vessel 
 for the purpose, squeeze out all the juice, and drain it 
 from the seeds. Boil up a gallon of water to each 
 gallon of juice you get out of them ; then skim the 
 water well, and add a little cinnamon slightly bruised. 
 Put to each gallon six ounces of white sugar-candy 
 finely beaten. Skim and strain the water, w hen it has 
 been taked off, and is settled; and put to it some 
 more juice of the mulberries. To every gallon of the 
 liquor, add a pint of white or rhenish wine. Let it 
 stand in a cask to purge or settle for five or six days, 
 and then draw off the w ine, and keep it in a cool place. 
 
 Raspberry Wine. 
 
 Pick some of the finest raspberries you can get, 
 bruise them, and strain them through a flannel bag into 
 a stone jar. To each quart of juice put a pound of 
 double-refined sugar, then stir it w 7 ell together, and 
 cover it close. Let it stand three days, and then pour 
 it off clear. To a quart of juice put two pints of 
 white w ine, and then bottle it off. In the course of a 
 w eek it will be fit for use. 
 
 Damsom Wine. 
 
 After you have gathered your damsons, which 
 must be on a dry day, w r eigh them and then bruise 
 them. Put them into a stein that has a tap in it, and 
 to every eight pounds of fruit put a gallon of w r ater. 
 Boil the water, skim it, and pour it scalding hot on 
 y oar fruit. When it has stood two days draw it off, 
 
MADE WINES. 
 
 317 
 
 and put it into a vessel, and to every gallon of liquor 
 put two pounds and a half of fine sugar. Fill up the 
 vessel and stop it close, and the longer it stands the 
 better. When you draw it oil’, put a lump of sugar 
 into every bottle. 
 
 Orange Wine. 
 
 Boil six gallons of spring water three quarters of 
 an hour, with twelve pounds of the best powder sugar, 
 and the whites of eight or ten eggs well beaten. When 
 it is cold, put it in six spoonsful of yea^t. Take the juice 
 of twelve lemons, which, being pared, must stand 
 with about two pounds of white sugar in a tankard, 
 and in the morning skim off the top, and put it in the 
 water. Then add the juice and rinds of fifty oranges, 
 but not the white parts of the rinds, and then let them 
 work all together for forty-eight hours. Then add two 
 quarts of Rhenish or white wine, and put it into your 
 vessel. 
 
 Orange wine may be made with raisins, in which 
 case proceed thus : take thirty pounds of new Malaga 
 raisins picked clean, chop them small, and take twenty 
 large Seville oranges, ten of which you must prepare 
 as thin as for preserving. Boil about eight gallons of 
 soft water till one third of it is wasted, and let it cool 
 a little. Then put five gallons of it hot upon your 
 raisins and orange-peel, stir it well together, cover it 
 up, and when it is cold, let it stand five days, stirring 
 it once or twice a day. Then pass it through a hair 
 sieve, and with a spoon press it as dry as you can 
 Put it in a rundlet fit for use, and put to it the rinds 
 of the other ten oranges, cut as thin as the first. Then 
 make a syrup of the juice of twenty oranges, with a 
 pound of wiiite sugar, wiiich must be done the day 
 b fore you tun the wine. Stir it well together, and 
 stop it close. Let it stand two months to clear, and 
 then bottle it off. This wine greatly improves by time, 
 and will drink much better at the end of the third year 
 than the first. 
 
 Lemon Wine. 
 
 Pare off the rinds of six large lemons, cut them. 
 
318 
 
 MADE WINES. 
 
 and squeeze out the juice. Steep the rinds in the juice, 
 and put to it a quart of brandy. Let it stand three 
 days in an earthen pot close stopped ; then squeeze six 
 more, and mix it with two quarts of spring water, and 
 as much su^ar as will sweeten the whole. Boil the 
 water, lemons, and sugar together, and let it stand till 
 it is cool. Then add a quart of white wine, mix them 
 together, and run it through a flannel bag into some 
 vessel. Let it stand three months, and then bottle it 
 off. Cork your bottles well, keep it cool, and it will 
 be fit to drink in a month or six weeks. 
 
 Lemon wine mav be made to drink like citron wa- 
 
 •j 
 
 ter, the method of which is as follows : pare fine a 
 dozen of lemons very thin, put the peels into five quarts 
 of French brandy, and let them stand fourteen days. 
 Then make the juice into a syrup with three pounds 
 of single-refined sugar, and when the peels are ready, 
 boil fifteen gallons of water with forty pounds of single- 
 refined sugar for half an hour. Then put it into a tub, 
 and when cool, add to it one spoonful of barm, and let 
 it work two days. Then turn it, and put in the bran- 
 dy, peels, and syrup. Stir them altogether, and close 
 up your cask. Let it stand three months, then bottle 
 it, and it will be as pale and fine as any citron water. 
 
 Grape Wine. 
 
 Put a gallon of water to a gallon of grapes. Bruise 
 the grapes well, let them stand a week without stir- 
 ring, and then draw off the liquor. Put to a gallon 
 of the wine three pounds of sugar, and then put it into 
 a vessel, but do not fasten it up with your bung till it 
 has done hissing. Let it stand two months, and it will 
 draw clear and fine. If you think proper you may 
 then bottle it, but remember your cork is quite close, 
 and keep it in a good dry cellar. 
 
 Cherry Wine. 
 
 Gather your cherries when they are quite ripe, 
 pull them from the stalks, and press them through a 
 hair-sieve. To every gallon of liquor put two pounds 
 
MADE WINES. 
 
 319 
 
 of lump sugar finely beaten, then stir it together, and 
 put it into a vessel that will just contain it. When it 
 has done working, and ceases to make any noise, stop 
 it very close for three months, and then bottle it oil' for 
 use. 
 
 Elder Wine. 
 
 Pi ck your elder-berries when they are full ripe, put 
 them into a stone jar, and set them in the oven, or in 
 a kettle of boiling water till the jar is hot through ; then 
 take them out, and strain them through a coarse sieve, 
 wringing the berries, and put the juice into a clean ket- 
 tle. To every quart of juice, put a pound of fine Lis- 
 bon sugar, let it boil, and skim it well. When it is 
 clear and fine, pour it into a cask. To every ten gal- 
 lons of wine, add an ounce of isinglass dissolved in 
 cider, and six whole eggs. Close it up, let it stand six 
 months, and then bottle it. 
 
 Apricot Wine. 
 
 Put three pounds of sugar into three quarts of wa- 
 ter, let them boil together, and skim it well. Then 
 put in six pounds of apricots pared and stoned, and let 
 them boil till they are tender. Take out the apricots, 
 and when the liquor is cold, bottle it up. For present 
 use the apricots will make good marmalade. 
 
 Quince Wine. 
 
 Gather twenty large quinces, when they are dry 
 and full ripe. Wipe them clean with a coarse cloth, 
 and grate them with a large grate or rasp as near the 
 cores as you can ; but do not touch the cores. Boil a 
 gallon of spring-water, throw in your quinces, and let 
 them boil softly about a quarter of an hour. Then 
 strain them well into an earthen pan on two pounds 
 of double-refined sugar. Pare the peel of two large 
 lemons, throw them in, and squeeze the juice through 
 a sieve. Stir it about till it is very cold, and then 
 toast a thin slice of bread very brown, rub a little yeast 
 on it, and let the whole stand close covered twenty- 
 four hours. Then take out the toast and lemon, put 
 
.320 MADE WINES. 
 
 the wine in a cask, keep it three months, and then bot- 
 tle it. If you make a twenty gallon cask, let it stana 
 six months before you bottle it; and remember, when 
 you strain your quinces, to wring them hard in a coarse 
 cloth. 
 
 Blackberry JHne. 
 
 Let your berries be full ripe when you gather them 
 for this purpose. Put them into a large vessel either 
 of wood or stone, with a tap >.n it, and pour upon them 
 as much boiling water as will cover them. As soon as 
 the heat will permit you to put your hand into the ves- 
 sel, bruise them well till all the berries are broken. 
 Then let them staud covered till the berries begin to 
 rise towards the top, which they will do in three or 
 lour days. Then draw off the clear into another ves- 
 sel, and add to every ten quarts of this liquor one 
 pound of sugar. Stir it well in, and let it stand to 
 work a week or ten days in another vessel like the first. 
 Then draw it off at the cork through a jelly-bag into a 
 large vessel. Take four ounces of isinglass, and lay it 
 to steep twelve hours in a pint of white wine. The 
 next morning boil it upon a slow fire till it is all dis- 
 solved. Then take a gallon of your blackberry juice, 
 put in the dissolved isinglass, give them a boil together, 
 and pour all into the vessel. Let it stand a few days 
 to purge and settle, then draw it off, and keep it in a 
 cool place. 
 
 Turnip Wine. 
 
 Take what quantity of turnips you think proper, 
 pare and slice them, put them into a cider-press, and 
 squeeze out all the juice. To every gallon of juice put 
 three pounds of lump sugar, put both into a vessel just 
 large enough to hold them, and add to every gallon of 
 juice half a pint of brandy. Lay something over the 
 bung for a week ; and when you are sure it has done 
 working, bung it down close. Let it stand three 
 months, then draw it off into another vessel, and when 
 it is fine, put it into bottles. 
 
MADE WINES 
 
 321 
 
 Birch Wine. 
 
 This wine must be made at that time of the yeat 
 W'hen the liquor from the birch-trees can be best pro- 
 cured. This is in the beginning of March, when the 
 sap is rising, and before the leaves shoot out ; for when 
 the sap is coming forward, and the leaves appear, the 
 juice, by being long digested in the bark, grows thick 
 and coloured, which before was thin and clear. The 
 method of procuring the juice is, by boring holes in the 
 body of the tree, and putting fossets, which are usual- 
 ly made of the branches of elder, the pith being taken 
 out. You may, without hurting the tree, if it is large, 
 tap it in several places, four or five at a time, and by 
 that means save, from a good many trees, several gal- 
 lons every day. If you do not get enough in one day, 
 the bottles in which it drops must be corked close, and 
 rosined or waxed ; however, make use of it as soon as 
 you can. Take the sap, and boil it as long as any 
 scum will rise, skimming it all the time. To every 
 gallon of liquor put four pounds of good sugar and the 
 thin peel of a lemon. Then boil it half an hour, and 
 keep skimming it well. Pour it into a clean tub, and 
 when it is almost cold, set it to w T ork wfith yeast spread 
 upon a toast. Let it stand five or six days, stirring it 
 often. Then take a cask just large enough to hold all 
 the liquor, fire a large match dipped in brimstone, and 
 throw it into the cask, stop it close till the match is 
 extinguished, then turn your wine, and lay the bung 
 on lightly till you find it has done working. Stop it 
 close, and, after three months, bottle it off. 
 
 Rose Wine. 
 
 Put into a well-glazed earthen vessel three gallons 
 of rose-water drawn with a cold still. Put into it a 
 sufficient quantity of rose-leaves, cover it close, and set 
 it for an hour in a kettle or copper of hot water, to 
 to take out the whole strength and flavour of the roses. 
 When it is cold, press the rose-leaves hard into the 
 liquor, and steep fresh ones on it, repeating it till the 
 liquor has got the full strength of the roses. To every 
 
 No. 14 . 2 S 
 
322 
 
 MADE WINES. 
 
 gallon of liquor put three pounds of loaf sugar, and stir 
 it well that it may melt and disperse in every part. 
 Then put it into a cask, or other convenient vessel, to 
 ferment, and throw into it a piece of bread toasted 
 hard and covered with yeast. Let it stand a month, 
 when it will be ripe, and have all the fine flavour and 
 scent of the roses. If you add some wine and spices, 
 it will be a considerable improvement. By the same 
 mode of infusion, wines may be made from any other 
 flowers that have an odoriferous scent, and grateful 
 flavour. 
 
 Ginger Wine. 
 
 Put seven pounds of Lisbon sugar into four gallons 
 of spring water, boil them a quarter of an hour, and 
 keep skimming it all the time. When the liquor is 
 cold, squeeze in the juice of two lemons, and then boil 
 the peels with two ounces of ginger, in three pints of 
 water, for an hour. When it is cold, put it all toge- 
 ther into a barrel, with two spoonsful of yeast, a quar- 
 ter of an ounce of isinglass beat very thin, and two 
 pounds of jar raisins. Then close it up, let it stand 
 seven weeks, and then bottle it off. 
 
 Balm Wine. 
 
 Boil forty pounds cf sugar in nine gallons of water 
 for two hours, skim it well, and put it into a tub to cool. 
 Take two pounds and a half of the tops of balm, bruise 
 them, and put them into a barrel with a little new 
 yeast, and when the liquor is cold, pour it on the balm. 
 Mix it well together, and let it stand twenty-four 
 hours, stirring it frequently during the time. Then 
 close it up, and let it stand six weeks, at the expira- 
 tion of which rack it off, and put a lump of sugar into 
 every bottle. Cork it well, and it will be better the 
 second year than the first. 
 
 Mead Wine. 
 
 There are different kinds of this wine; but those 
 generally made are two, namely, sack-mead and cow- 
 slip-mead. Sack mead is made thus : to every gallon 
 
MADE WINES. 
 
 323 
 
 of water put four pounds of honey, and boil it three 
 quarters of an hour, taking care properly to skim it 
 To each gallon add half an ounce of hops, then boh 
 it half an hour, and let it stand till the next day. Then 
 put it into your cask ; and to thirteen gallons of the 
 liquor add a quart of brandy or sack. Let it be tightly 
 closed till the fermentation is over, and then stop it 
 up very close. II you make as much as fills a large 
 cask, you must not bottle it off till it has stood a year. 
 
 To make cowslip-mead you must proceed thus: put 
 thirty pounds of honey into fifteen gallons of water, 
 and boil it till one gallon is wasted ; skim it, take it 
 oft the fire, and have ready sixteen lemons cut in 
 half. Take a gallon of the liquor, and put it to the 
 lemons. Pour the rest of the liquor into a tub, with 
 seven pecks of cowslips, and let them stand all night * 
 then put in the liquor with the lemons, eight spoonsful 
 of new yeast, and a handful of sweet-brier; stir all 
 well together, and let it work three or four days. 
 Then strain it, pour it into your cask, let it stand six 
 months, and then bottle it off for use. 
 
 Raspberry Brandy. 
 
 Mix a pint of water with two quarts of brandy, 
 and put them into a pitcher large enough to hold them, 
 with four pints of raspberries. Put in half a pound of 
 loaf-sugar, and let it remain for a week close covered. 
 Then take a piece of flannel, with a piece of Holland 
 over it, and let it run through by degrees. In about 
 a week it will be perfectly fine, when you may rack it 
 off ; but be careful the bottles are well corked. 
 
 Orange Brandy. 
 
 Put into three quarts of brandy the chips of eigh- 
 teen Seville oranges, and let them steep a fortnight in 
 a stone bottle close stopped. Boil two quarts of spring 
 water, with a pound and a half of the finest sugar, 
 near an hour very gently. Clarify the water and su 
 gar with the white of an egg, then strain it through a 
 jelly-bag, and boil it near half away. When it is cold, 
 strain the brandy into the syrup. 
 
324 
 
 CORDIAL WATERS. 
 
 Lemon Brandy. 
 
 Mix five quarts of water with one gallon of brandv: 
 then take two dozen of lemons, two pounds of the best 
 sugar, and three pints of milk. Pare the lemons very 
 thin, and lay the peel to steep in the brandy twelve 
 hours. Squeeze the lemons upon the sugar, then put 
 the water to it, and mix all the ingredients together. 
 Let it stand twenty-four hours, and then strain it. 
 
 Black Chei'ry Brandy. 
 
 Stone eight pounds of black cherries, and put on 
 them a gallon of the best brandy. Bruise the stones 
 in a mortar, and then put them into your brandv. Co- 
 ver them up close, and let them stand a month or six 
 weeks. Then pour it clear from the sediments, and 
 bottle it. Morello cherries managed in this manner, 
 make a fine rich cordial. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 CORDIAL WATERS. 
 
 IN the process of making these articles, several 
 things are necessary to be observed, in order to bring 
 them to their proper state of perfection. If your still 
 is an alembic, you must fill the top with cold water 
 when you set it on, and close the bottom with a little 
 stifF paste made of flour and water. If you use a hot 
 still, when you put on the top, dip a cloth in white 
 lead and oil, and lay it close over the ends, and a coarse 
 cloth well soaked in water on the top ; and when it 
 becomes dry from the heat of the fire, wet it and lay it 
 on again. It will require but little fire, but what there 
 is must be as clear as possible. All simple waters 
 must stand two or three days before they are bottled 
 off, that the fiery taste which they will naturally receive 
 from the still may be fully extracted. 
 
 Rose Water. 
 
 Gather your roses when they are dry and full 
 blown, pick off the leaves, and to every peck put a 
 
CORDIAL WATERS. 
 
 325 
 
 quart of water. Then put them into a cold still, and 
 make a slow fire under it; for the more gradually it is 
 distilled, the better it will be. Then bottle it, and in 
 two or three days you may cork it up for use. 
 
 Lavender Water. 
 
 To every pound of lavender-neps put a quart of 
 water. Put them into a cold still, and make a slow 
 fire under it. Distil it off very slowly, and put it into 
 a pot till you have distilled all your water. Then 
 clean your still well out, put your lavender-water into 
 it, and distil it off as slowly as before. Then put it 
 into bottles, cork them quite close, and set them by for 
 use. 
 
 P eppermint Water. 
 
 Gather your peppermint when it is full grown, 
 and before it seeds. Cut it into short lengths, put it 
 into your still, and cover it with water. Make a good 
 fire under it, and when it is near boiling, and the still 
 begins to drop, if you find your fire too hot, draw a 
 little away, that the liquor may not boil over. The 
 slower your still drops, the clearer and stronger will be 
 the water; but at the same time you must not let it 
 get too weak. The next morning bottle it off, and 
 after it has stood two or three days, to take off the 
 fiery taste of the still, cork it well, and it will preserve 
 its strength a considerable time. 
 
 Surfeit Water. 
 
 Take scurvy-grass, brook-lime, water-cresses, Ro- 
 man wormwood, rue, mint, balm, sage, and chives, of 
 each one handful ; poppies, if fresh, half a peck ; but 
 if they are dry, only half that quantity; cochineal and 
 saffron, six-penny worth of each : aniseeds, carraway- 
 seeds, coriander-seeds, and cardamum seeds, of each 
 an ounce ; two ounces of scraped liquorice, a pound 
 of split figs, the same quantity of raisins of the sun 
 stoned, an ounce of juniper-berries bruised, an ounce 
 of beaten nutmeg, an ounce of mace bruised, and the 
 same of sweet fennel seeds also bruised ; a few ilowers 
 
326 
 
 BREWING. 
 
 of rosemary, marigold, and sage. Put all these into a 
 large stone jar, and pour on them three gallons of 
 French brandy. Cover it close, and let it stand near 
 the fire for three weeks. Stir it three times a week, 
 and at the expiration of that time strain it off. Bottle 
 your liquor, and pour on the ingredients a quart more 
 of French brandy. Let it stand a week, stirring it 
 once a day; then distil it in a cold still, and you will 
 have a fine white surfeit water. Bottle it close, and it 
 will retain its virtues a considerable time. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 THE ART OF BREWING. 
 
 TO complete the Housekeeper's knowledge in all 
 domestic concerns, it is essentially necessary she should 
 be properly acquainted with the method of brewing 
 malt-liquors, more especially should she he the princi- 
 pal provider for a numerous family. This business 
 will therefore form the subject of the present chapter, 
 and the mode to be pursued throughout the whole pro- 
 cess we shall endeavour to lay down in so clear, con- 
 cise, and intelligent a manner, as may easily guide the 
 unacquainted, and perhaps, in some degree, be mate- 
 rially beneficial to those already informed. 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 The Principles on which a Copper should be built 
 
 for Brewing. 
 
 There are several things that demand peculiar no- 
 tice previous to the actual process of brewing malt 
 liquors ; and those are with respect to the various im- 
 plements necessary to effect and facilitate a proper 
 execution of so important a business. 
 
 The first thing that presents itself among these is 
 the copper, the proper position of w hich, and manner 
 of its being set, are matters that require very attentive 
 
BREWING. 
 
 327 
 
 consideration. The most beneficial mode to be adopt- 
 ed is this : divide the heat of the fire by a stop ; and if 
 the door and draught be in a direct line, the stop must 
 be erected from the middle of each outline of the grat- 
 ing, and parallel with the centre sides of the copper ; 
 by which method the middle of the fire will be direct- 
 ly under the bottom of the copper. The stop is com- 
 posed of a thin wall in the centre of the right and left 
 sides of the copper, which is to ascend half the height 
 of it. On the top must be left a cavity, from four to six 
 inches, for a draught for that half part of the fire which 
 is next the door of the copper ; and then the building 
 must close all round to the finishing at the top. By 
 this method the heat will communicate from the out- 
 ward part of the fire round the outward half of your 
 copper, through the cavity, as well the farthest part of 
 the flue, which also contracts a conjunction of the 
 whole, and causes the flame to glide gently and equally 
 round the bottom of the copper. 
 
 The ad vantages derived from your copper being set 
 in this manner are very great, nor is the saving of fuel 
 the least object of consideration among them. It has a 
 material pre-eminence over wheel-draughts; for with 
 them, if there is not particular attendance given to the 
 hops, by stirring them down, they are apt to stick to 
 the sides, and scorch, which will deprive the liquor of 
 having its sweet and proper flavour. By the before 
 mentioned method the copper will last many years 
 more than it will by the wheel- draught ; for that draws 
 with so much violence, that should your liquor be 
 beneath the communication of the fire, yOur copper 
 will thereby be liable to injury ; whereas by the other 
 method, you may boil half a copper full without fear 
 of any bad consequence. 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 On the proper Management of Vessels for Brewing , 
 and the necessity of keeping them in due Order. 
 
 On the preceding day that you intend to brew, 
 
328 
 
 BREWING. 
 
 make a strict examination into all your vessels, that 
 they are thoroughly clean, and in a proper state for use. 
 They should never be converted to any other purpose, 
 except for the use of making wines; and, even in that 
 case, after done with, should be properly cleansed, and 
 kept in a place free from dirt. Let your cask be well 
 cleaned with boiling water ; and if the bung-hole is 
 large enough, scrub them well with a small birch - 
 broom, or brush. If you find them bad, and a very 
 musty scent comes from them, take out the heads, and 
 let them be scrubbed clean with a hand brush, sand, 
 and fullers’-earth. When you have done this, put on 
 the head again, and scald it well, then throw in a piece 
 of unslacked lime, and stop the bung close. When 
 they have stood some time, rince them well with cold 
 water, and they will be properly prepared for use. 
 
 The greatest attention must likewise be paid to the 
 Care of your coolers, which are implements of very ma- 
 terial consequence ; for, if they are not properly kept 
 in order, your liquor, from a secret and unaccountable 
 cause, abstracts a nauseousness that will entirely de- 
 stroy it. This often proceeds from wet having been 
 infused in the wood, as it is sometimes apt to lodge in 
 the crevices of old coolers, and even infect them to such 
 a degree, that it will not depart, though many washings 
 and scaldings are applied. One cause incidental to 
 this evil is, suffering women to w ash in a brewhouse, 
 which ought by no means to be permitted, where any 
 other convenience can be had ; for nothing can be more 
 hurtful than the remnants of dirty soap suds left in 
 vessels calculated only for the purpose of brewing. 
 
 When you prepare the coolers, be careful never to 
 let the w r ater stand too long in them, as it will soak in, 
 and soon turn putrid, when the stench will enter the 
 wood, and render them almost incurable. To prevent 
 such consequences, as well as to answer good purposes, 
 it has been recommended, where fixed brewiiouses 
 are intended, that all coolers should be leaded. It 
 
 must be admitted, in the first place, that such are ex- 
 ceeding cleanly; and, secondly, that it 
 
 expedites the 
 
BREWING. 
 
 329 
 
 cooling part of your liquor worts, which is very neces 
 sary to forward it for working, as well as afterwards 
 for cooling the whole ; for evaporation causes consi- 
 derably more waste than proper boiling. It is also 
 indispensably necessary that your coolers be well scour- 
 ed with cold water two or three times, cold water 
 being more proper than hot to effect a perfect cleansing, 
 especially if they are in a bad condition, from undis- 
 covered filth that may be in the crevices. The appli- 
 cation of warm water will drive the infection farther; 
 so that if your liquor be let into the coolers, and any 
 remain in the crevices, the heat will collect the foulness, 
 and render the whole both disagreeable and unwhole- 
 some. 
 
 The mash-tub in particular must be kept perfectly 
 clean ; nor must the grains be left in the tub any long- 
 er than the day after brewing, lest it should sour the 
 tub ; for if there is a sour scent in the brewhouse before 
 your beer is tunned, it will be apt to infect your liquor 
 and worts. From such inconveniences, the necessity 
 of cleanliness in utensils for brewing is sufficiently 
 obvious. 
 
 SECT. III. 
 
 Directions for the Management of the Mash-tub , 
 
 Penstaff, 4*c. 
 
 To render your mash-tub more perfect and lasting, 
 you should have a circular piece of brass or copper, to 
 inlay and line the whole where the penstaff enters, to 
 let the wort run off into the underback. The penstaff 
 should be also strongly ferrelled with the same metal, 
 and both well and taperly finished, so that you can place 
 it properly. By this method you have it run from 
 the fineness of a thread to the fulness of an inch tube, 
 &c. first dressing your musk-basket with straw, fern, 
 or small bushy furze without stems, six or eight inches 
 in from the bottom of your basket, and set quite per- 
 pendicularly over the whole, with the penstaff through 
 No. 14. 2 T 
 
330 
 
 BREWING. 
 
 the centre of the basket, and the middle of the furze 
 or (ern, and fastened to the hole of the tub. To steady 
 it properly, you must have a piece of iron let into a 
 staple fastened to the tub, at the nearest part opposite 
 the basket, and to reach nearly to it ; and from that 
 piece another added on a jointed swivel, or any other 
 contrivance, so as to be at liberty to let round the bas- 
 ket like a dog s collar, and to enter into the staple form- 
 ed in the same to pin it fast, and by adding a half cir- 
 cular turn into the collar, in which you have room to 
 drive in a wedge, which will keep it safe down to the 
 bottom, where there can be no danger of its being dis- 
 turbed by stirring the mash, which will otherwise 
 sometimes be the case. When you let go, you w ill 
 raise the penstaff to your own degree of running, and 
 then fasten the staff, by the help of tw o wedges tight- 
 ened between the staff and the basket. 
 
 In process of time the copper w ork, like every thing 
 else, w T ill become defective, and w hen this is the case, 
 you may repair the imperfection by the following sim- 
 ple method. Work the penstaff in the brass socket 
 with emery and w ater, or oil, w hich will make it per- 
 haps more perfect than when new. The like method 
 is sometimes taken even with taps just purchased, in 
 order to prevent their decaying so soon as they other- 
 wise wuuld. 
 
 A very material addition may be made to the con- 
 venience of the underbacks, by having a piece of cop- 
 per to line the hole in the bottom, w hich may be stop- 
 ped with a cloth put singly round a large tap ; and 
 when it is fastened dowm for the w ort to run, it w ill be 
 necessary to put a large w eight on the tap, which w ill 
 prevent its flying up by the heat. When the liquor 
 is pumped clean out of the back, the cloth round the 
 tap will enable you to take out the tap with ease ; and 
 there should be a drain below’ the underback to carry 
 off tlie w T ater, w hich will enable you to wash it perfect- 
 ly clean with very little trouble. This drain should 
 be made with a clear descent, so as no damp may re- 
 main under the back. With the conveyance of water 
 
BREWING. 
 
 331 
 
 running into your copper, you may be enabled to work 
 that water in a double quantity, your underback being 
 tilled, by the means of letting it in at your leisure, out 
 of your copper, through a shoot to the mash-tub, and 
 so to the underback. Thus you will have a reserve 
 against the time you wish to fill your copper, which 
 may be completed in a few minutes, by pumping while 
 the under tap is running. Thus much for the princi- 
 pal utensils in brewing, which we again recommend 
 to be always kept in a perfect state of cleanliness. 
 
 SECT. 1Y 
 
 Of the proper Time of Brewing. 
 
 The month of March is generally considered as one 
 of the principal seasons for brewing malt liquor for 
 long keeping ; and the reason is, because the air at 
 that time of the year is, in general, temperate, and con- 
 tributes to the good working or fermentation of the 
 liquor, which principally promotes its preservation and 
 good keeping. V ery cold, as well as very hot weather, 
 prevents the free fermentation or working of liquors ; 
 so that, if you brew in very cold weather, unless you 
 use some means to warm the cellar while new drink 
 is working, it will never clear itself in the manner you 
 would wish, and the same misfortune will arise if, in 
 very hot w r eather, the cellar is not put into a tempe- 
 rate state ; the consequence of all which will be, that 
 such drink will be muddy and sour, and, perhaps, in 
 such a degree, as to be past recovery. Such accidents 
 often happen, even in the proper season for brewing, 
 and that owing to the badness of the cellar; for when 
 they are dug in springy grounds, or are subject to damps 
 in the winter, the liquor will chill, and become vapid 
 or flat. When cellars are of this nature, it is advisable 
 to make your brewings in March, rather than in Octo- 
 ber ; for you may keep your cellars temperate in sum- 
 mer, but cannot w T arm them in winter. Thus your 
 beer brewed in March will ha ve due time to settle and 
 
332 
 
 BREWING. 
 
 adjust itself before the cold can do it any material in- 
 jury. 
 
 All cellars for keeping liquor should be fonned in 
 such a manner, that no external air can get into them ; 
 for the variation of the air abroad, were there free ad- 
 mission of it into the cellars, would cause as many alter- 
 ations in the liquors, and would thereby keep them in 
 so unsettled a state, as to render them unfit for drink- 
 ing. A constant temperate air digests and softens 
 malt liquors ; so that they taste quite soft and smooth 
 to the palate ; but in cellars which are unequal, by 
 letting in heats and colds, the liquor will be apt to 
 sustain very material injury. 
 
 SECT. Y. 
 
 On the Quality of Water proper for Brewing. 
 
 It has evidently appeared from repeated experience, 
 that the water best in quality for brewing is river- 
 water, such as is soft, and has received those benefits 
 which naturally arise from the air and sun ; for this 
 easily penetrates into the grain, and extracts its virtues. 
 On the contrary, hard waters astringe and bind the 
 power of the malt, so that its virtue is not freely com- 
 municated to the liquor. There are some who hold 
 it as a maxim, that all water that will mix with soap 
 is fit for brewing, which is the case with most river- 
 water; and it has been frequently experienced, that 
 when the same quantity of malt has been used to a 
 barrel of river- water, as to a barrel of spring-water, 
 the brewing from the former has excelled the other in 
 strength above five degrees in twelve months keep. 
 It is likewise to be observed, that the malt was not 
 only the same in quantity for one barrel as for the 
 other, but was the same in quality, having been all 
 measured from the same heap. The hops were also 
 (he same, both in quality and quantity, and the time 
 of boiling equal in each. They were worked in the 
 same manner, and tunned and kept in the same cellar. 
 
BREWING. 
 
 333 
 
 This is the most demonstrable and undeniable proof 
 that the difference took place from the difference of 
 the quality of the water. 
 
 Various experiments have been tried by gentlemen 
 in different counties to ascertain the truth of this very 
 essential difference in malt liquors, arising from the 
 quality of the water ; but after all, they have been 
 left in a state of perplexity. 
 
 One circumstance has greatly puzzled the ablest 
 brewers, and that is, when several gentlemen in the 
 same town have employed the same brewer, have had 
 the same malt, the same hops, and the same water, 
 and brewed in the same month, and broached their 
 drink at the same time, yet one has had beer exceed- 
 ing fine, strong, and well-tasted, while the others 
 have had hardly any worth drinking. In order to ac- 
 count for this very singular difference, three reasons 
 may be advanced. First, it might arise from the dif- 
 ference of the weather, which might happen at the 
 several brewings in this month, and make an alteration 
 in the working of the liquors. Secondly, the yeast, 
 or barm, might be of different sorts, or in different 
 states, wherewith these liquors were worked; and, 
 thirdly, the cellars might not be equally adapted for 
 the purpose. The goodness of such drink as is brew- 
 ed for keeping, in a great measure depends on the 
 proper form and temperature of the cellars in which 
 it is placed. 
 
 Beer made at Dorchester, which in general is 
 greatly admired, is, for the most part, brewed with 
 chalky- water, which is to be had in most parts of that 
 county ; and as the soil is generally chalk, the cellars 
 being dug in that dry soil, contribute to the good 
 keeping of their drink, it being of a close texture, 
 and of a drying quality, so as to dissipate damps ; for 
 it has been found by experience that damp cellars are 
 injurious to the keeping of liquor, as well as injurious 
 to the casks. 
 
 Water that is naturally of a hard quality may be, 
 m pome degree, softened by exposing it to the air and 
 
334 
 
 BREWING. 
 
 sun, and putting into it some pieces of soft chalk to 
 infuse ; or, when the water is set on to boil, in order 
 to be poured on the malt, put into it a quantity of 
 bran, which will take off some part of its sharpness, 
 and make it better extract the virtues of the malt. 
 
 SECT. VI. 
 
 Of the Quality of the Malt and Hops most proper 
 to he chosen for Brewing , with some necessary 
 Observations on the j M anagement of each. 
 
 There are two sorts of malt, the general distinc- 
 tion between which is, that the one is high, and the 
 other low dried. The former of these, when brewed, 
 produces a liquor of a deep brown colour ; and the 
 other, which is the low dried, will produce a liquor of 
 a pale colour. The first is dried in such a manner as 
 rather to be scorched than dried, and is much less 
 wholesome than the pale malt. It has likewise been 
 found by experience, that brown malt, although it 
 may be well brewed, will sooner turn sharp than the 
 pale ; from whence, among other reasons, the latter is 
 entitled to pre-eminence. 
 
 We have farther proofs of this distinction from 
 various people, but particularly one : — A gentleman, 
 who has made the Art of Brewing his study for many 
 years, and who gives his opinion and knowledge in 
 words to this purpose, says, brown malt makes the 
 best drink when it is brewed with a course river w T ater, 
 such as that of the Thames about London ; and that 
 likewise being brewed with such water makes very 
 good ale ; but that it will not keep above six months 
 without turning stale, even though he allows fourteen 
 bushels to the hogshead. He adds, that he has tried 
 the high-dried malt to brew beer with for beeping and 
 hopped it accordingly; and yet he could never brew it 
 so as to drink soft and mellow like that brewed with 
 pale malt. There is, he says, an acid quality in the 
 high-dried malt, which occasions those who drink it to 
 
BREWING. 335 
 
 be greatly troubled with that disorder called the heart- 
 burn. 
 
 What we have here said with respect to malt, refers 
 only to that made of barley ; for wheat-malt, pea-malt, 
 or high coloured liquor, will keep some years, and 
 drink soft and smooth, bat they are very subject to 
 have the flavour of mum. 
 
 Malt high dried should not be used in brewing till 
 it has been ground ten days or a fortnight, as it will 
 then yield much stronger drink than from the same 
 quantity ground but a short time before it is used. 
 On the contrary, pale malt, which has not received 
 much of the fire, must not remain ground above a 
 week before it is used. 
 
 With respect to hops, the newest are by far the best. 
 They will, indeed, remain very good for two years, 
 but after that they begin to decay, and lose their fla- 
 vour, unless great quantities are kept together, in 
 which case they will keep good much longer than in 
 small quantities. In order the better to preserve them, 
 they should be kept in a very dry place, contrary to 
 the practice of those who deal in them, who making 
 self-interest their first consideration, keep them as 
 damp as they can to increase their weight. 
 
 It will happen, in the course of time, that hops will 
 grow stale, decayed, and lose their natural bitterness ; 
 but this defect may be removed, by unbagging them, 
 and sprinkling them with aloes and water. 
 
 From what has been said, it is evident that every 
 one of the particulars mentioned should be judiciously 
 chosen before you commence brewing, otherwise you 
 will sustain a loss, which will be aggravated by your 
 labours being in vain. It is likewise to be observed, 
 that the yeast or barm w ith which you work your 
 liquor, must be well considered, for otherwise, even by 
 that alone, a good brewing may be totally destroyed. 
 Be alw T ays particularly careful that you are provided 
 with every necessary article previous to your com- 
 mencing the business of brewing ; for if the wort waits 
 for any thing that should be immediately at hand, it 
 will be attended with very bad consequences. 
 
336 
 
 BREWING. 
 
 SECT. VII. 
 
 The Process, or Practical Part of Brewing. 
 
 Having, in the preceding sections, fully explained 
 the necessary precautions to be taken previous to the 
 commencement of this very important business, we 
 shall now proceed to give a concise detail of every 
 thing that is necessary to be observed and attended to 
 in the regular process of it, from the malt being first 
 malted, to the liquor being turned off for the cellar. 
 
 Your utensils being all properly cleansed and scald- 
 ed, your malt ground, your water in the copper boil- 
 ing, and your penstaff well set, you must then proceed 
 to mash, by putting a sufficient quantity of boiling wa- 
 ter into your tub, in w hich it must stand until the 
 greater part of the steam is gone off, or till you can 
 see your own shadow in it. It will be then necessary 
 that one person should pour the malt gently in, while 
 another is carefully stirring it ; for it is equally essential 
 that the same care should be observed when the mash 
 is thin as when thick. This being effectually done, 
 and having a sufficient reserve of malt to cover the 
 mash, to prevent evaporation, you may cover your tub 
 with sacks, &c. and leave your malt three hours to 
 steep, which will be a proper time for the extraction 
 of its virtues. 
 
 Before you let the mash run, be careful to be pre- 
 pared with a pail to catch the first flush, as that is 
 generally thickish, and another pail to be applied while 
 you return the first on the mash, and so on for two or 
 three times, or, at least, till it runs fine. 
 
 By this time, your copper should be boiling, and a 
 convenient tub placed close to your mash-tub. Let 
 into it through your spout half the quantity of boiling 
 water you mean to use for draw ing off your best w ort ; 
 after which you must instantly turn the tap to fill up 
 again, which, with a proper attention to the fire, will 
 boil in due time. During such time, you must slop 
 the mash with this hot w r ater out of the convenient 
 tub, in moderate quantities, every eight or ten minutes 
 
BREWING. 
 
 331 
 
 till the whole is consumed ; and then let off the re- 
 maining quantity, which will be boiling hot, to the 
 linishing process for strong beer. 
 
 Having proceeded thus far, fill your copper, and let 
 it boil as quick as possible for the second mash, whe- 
 ther you intend it either for ale or small beer. Being 
 thus far prepared, let off the remaining quantity of 
 water into your tub, as you did for the strong beer ; 
 but if you would have small beer besides, you must 
 act accordingly, by boiling a proper quantity off in due 
 time, and letting it into the tub as before. 
 
 With respect to the quantity of malt, twenty-four 
 bushels will make two hogsheads of as good strong beer 
 as any person would wish to drink, as also two hogs- 
 heads of very decent ale. The strong beer made from 
 this quantity of malt should be kept two or three 
 years before it is tapped, and the ale never less than 
 one. If your mash is only for one hogshead, it should 
 be two hours in running off; if for two hogsheads, two 
 hours and a half; and for any greater quantity, three 
 hours. 
 
 Particular attention must be paid to the time of 
 steeping your mashes. Strong beer must be allowed 
 three hours; ale, one hour; and, if you draw small 
 beer after, half an hour. By this mode of proceeding, 
 your boilings will regularly take place of each other, 
 which will greatly expedite the business. Be careful, 
 in the course of mashing, that it is thoroughly stirred 
 from the bottom, and especially round the muck-basket, 
 for, being well shaken, it will prevent a stagnation of 
 the whole body of the mash. This last process de- 
 mands peculiar attention, for without it your beer will 
 certainly be foxed, and, at best, will have a very dis- 
 agreeable flavour. 
 
 In the preparation for boiling, the greatest care must 
 be taken to put the hops in with the first wort, or it 
 will char in a few minutes. As soon as the copper is 
 full enough, make a good fire under it; but be careful 
 in filling it to leave room enough for boiling. Quick 
 boiling is part of the business that requires very par 
 No. 15. 2 U 
 
BREWING. 
 
 333 
 
 tieular attention. Great caution should likewise be 
 observed when the liquor begins to swell in waves in 
 the copper. If you have no attendant, be particular 
 attentive to its motions; and being provided with an 
 iron rod of a proper length, crooked at one end, and 
 jagged at the other, then with the crook you are ena- 
 bled to open the furnace, or copper-door, and with 
 the other t nd push in the damper without stirring from 
 your station ; but on the approach of the first swell 
 you will have sufficient time to proportion your fire, as 
 care should be taken that it is not too fierce. When 
 the boil is properly got under, you may increase the 
 fire so that it may boil briskly. 
 
 In order to ascertain the proper time the liquor 
 should boil, you may make use of the following ex- 
 pedient : take a clean copper bowl dish, dip out some 
 of the liquor, and when you discover a working, and 
 the hops sinking, then conclude it to be sufficiently 
 boiled. Long and slow boiling isnotonly pernicious, 
 but it likewise wastes the liquor; for the slower it boils 
 the lower it drops and singes to your copper; whereas, 
 quick boiling has a contrary effect. Essence of malt 
 is extracted by length of boiling, by which you can 
 make it to the thickness of honey or treacle. In some 
 parts of Yorkshire they value their liquor for its 
 great strength, by its affecting the brain for two or 
 three davs after intoxication. This is the effect of longr 
 boiling; for in that county they boil liquor for three 
 hours ; and what is still worse, when it sinks in the 
 copper, from the waste in boiling, they every now and 
 then add a little fresh wort, w 7 hich, w ithout doubt, must 
 produce stagnation, and, consequently, impurities. 
 
 When your liquor is properly boiled, be sure to tra- 
 verse a small quantity of it over all the coolers, so as 
 to get a proper quantity cold immediately to set to 
 
 work; but if the airiness of vour brewhouse is not suf- 
 
 •/ 
 
 ficient to expedite a quantity soon, you must traverse 
 a second quantity over the coolers, and then let it into 
 shallow tubs. Put these into any passage w here there 
 is a thorough draft of air, but where no rain or other 
 
BREWING. 
 
 339 
 
 wet can get to it. Then let off the quantity of two 
 baring- tubs full from the first one, the second and third 
 coolers, which may be soon got cold, to be ready for a 
 speedy working, and then the remaining part that is in 
 your copper may be quite let out into the first cooler. 
 In the mean time mend the fire, and also attend to the 
 hops, to make a clear passage through the strainer. 
 
 Having proceeded thus far, as soon as the liquor is 
 done running, return to your business of pumping; but 
 be careful to remember, that, when you have got four 
 or five pails full, you then return all the hops into the 
 copper for the ale. 
 
 By this time the small quantity of liquor traversed 
 over your coolers being sufficiently cooled, you must 
 proceed to set your liquor to work, the manner of doing 
 which is as follows : 
 
 Take four quarts of barm, and divide half of it into 
 small vessels, such as clean bowls, basins, or mugs, add- 
 ing thereto an equal quantity of wort, which should be 
 almost cold. As soon as it ferments to the top of the 
 vessel, put it into two pails, and when that works to 
 the top, put one into a baring-tub, and the other into 
 another. When you have half a baring-tub full toge- 
 ther, you may put the like quantity to each of them, 
 and then cover them over, until it comes to a fine white 
 head. This may be perfectly completed in three hours, 
 and then put those two quantities into the working 
 guile. You may now add as much wort as you have 
 got ready; for, if the weather is open, you cannot work 
 it too cold. If you brew in cold frosty weather, keep 
 the brew house warm : but never add hot wort to keep 
 the liquor to a blood heat, that being a bad maxim; 
 for hot wort put to cold, as well as cold to hot, is so 
 intemperate in its nature, that it stagnates the proper 
 operation of the barm. 
 
 Be particularly careful that your barm be not from 
 foxed beer, that is, beer heated by ill management in 
 its working ; for in that case it is likely to carry with it 
 the contagion. If your barm be flat, and you cannot 
 procure that which is new, the method of recovering 
 
340 
 
 BREWING. 
 
 ‘ts working is, by putting to it a pint of warm sweet 
 wort, of your first letting off, the heat to be about half 
 the degree of milk-warm : then give the vessel that 
 contains it a shake, and it will soon gather strength, 
 and be fit for use. 
 
 With respect to the quantity of hops necessary to be 
 used, remember that half a pound of good hops is suffi- 
 cient for a bushel of malt. 
 
 The last, and most simple operation in the business 
 of brewing is, that of tunning, the general methods 
 of doing which are, either by having it carried into 
 the cellar on men’s shoulders, or conveying it thither 
 by means of leathern pipes commonly used for that 
 purpose. 
 
 Your casks being perfectly clean, sweet and dry, and 
 placed on the stand ready to receive the liquor, first 
 skim off the top barm, then proceed to fill your casks 
 quite full, and immediately bung and peg them close. 
 Bore a hole with a tap-borer near the summit of the 
 stave at the same distance from the top, as the lower 
 tap-hole is from the bottom, for working through that 
 upper hole, which is a clean and more effectual method 
 than working it over the cask; for, by the above me- 
 thod, being so closely confined, it soon sets itself into a 
 convulsive motion of working, and forces itself fine, 
 provided you attend to the filling of your casks five or 
 six times a day. This ought to be carefully attended 
 to, for, by too long an omission, it begins to settle, and 
 being afterwards disturbed, it raises a sharp fermen- 
 tation, which produces an incessant w orking of a spu- 
 rious froth that may continue for some weeks, and, 
 after all, give your beer a disagreeable taste. 
 
 One material caution necessary to be kept in remem- 
 brance is this : that how ever careful you may be in at- 
 tending to all the preceding particulars, yet if your 
 casks are not kept in good order, still the brewing may 
 be spoiled. New 7 casks are apt to give liquor a bad 
 taste, if they are not w 7 ell scalded and seasoned several 
 days successively before they are used ; and old casks, if 
 they stand any time out of use, are aot. to grow 7 musty. 
 
BREWING. 
 
 341 
 
 Having thus gone through the practical part of brew- 
 ing, and brought the liquor from the mash- tub to the 
 cask, we shall now proceed to 
 
 SECT. YIII. 
 
 Containing the proper Management of Malt Liquors , 
 
 with some necessary Observations on the Whole. 
 
 In order to keep strong beer in a proper state of pre- 
 servation, remember, that when once the vessel is 
 broached, regard must be paid to the time in which it 
 may be expended ; for, if there happens to be a quick 
 draught for it, then it will last good to the very bottom ; 
 but if there is likely to be but a slow draught, then do 
 not draw off quite half before you bottle it, otherwise 
 it will grow hat, dead, or sour. 
 
 In proportion to the quantity of liquor which is en- 
 closed in one cask, so will it be a shorter or longer 
 time in ripening. A vessel, which contains two hogs- 
 heads of beer, will require twice as much time to per- 
 fect itself as one of a hogshead ; and it is found, by ex- 
 perience, that no vessel should be used for strong beer 
 (which is intended to be kept) less than a hogshead, 
 as one of that quantity, if it is fit to draw in a year, 
 will have body enough to support it for two, three, 
 or four years, provided it has a sufficient strength 
 of malt and hops, which is the case with Dorchester 
 beer. 
 
 With respect to the management of small beer, the 
 first consideration should be to make it tolerably good 
 in quality, which, in various instances, will be found 
 truly economical ; for if it is not good, servants, for 
 whom it is principally calculated, will be feeble m 
 summer time, incapable of strong work, and subject 
 to various disorders. Besides, when the beer is bad, 
 a great deal will be thrown away ; whereas, on the 
 contrary, good wholesome drink will be valued, and 
 consequently taken care of. It is advisable therefore, 
 where there is a good cellaring, to brew a stock of 
 
BREWING. 
 
 small beer in March or October, or in both months, to 
 be kept, if possible, in hogsheads. 
 
 The beer brewed in March should not be tapped 
 till October, nor that brewed in October till the March 
 following; having this regard to the quantity, that 
 a family, of the same number of working people, will 
 drink at least one third more in summer than in 
 winter. 
 
 In order to fine beer, some people, who brew with 
 high dried barley malt, put a bag, containing about 
 three pints of wheat into every hogshead of liquor, 
 which has had the desired effect, and made the beer 
 drink soft and mellow. Others again, have put about 
 three pints of wheat-malt into a hogshead, which has 
 produced the like effect. 
 
 But all malt liquors, however well they may be 
 brewed, may be spoiled by bad cellaring; be subject 
 to ferment in the cask, and consequently turn thick 
 and sour. When this happens to be the case, the best 
 way of bringing the liquor to itself is, to open the bung- 
 hole of the cask for two or three days ; and if that does 
 not stop the fermentation, then put in about two or 
 three pounds of oyster shells, washed, dried well in an 
 oven, and then beaten to a fine powder. After you 
 have put it in stir it a little, and it will soon settle 
 the liquor, make it fine, and take off the sharp taste. 
 When you find this effected, draw it off into another 
 vessel, and put a small bag of wheat, or wheat-malt 
 into it, in proportion to the size of the vessel. It 
 sometimes occurs, that such fermentations will happen 
 in liquor from a change of weather, if it is in a bad cel- 
 lar, and will, in a few months, fall fine of itself, and 
 grow mellow. 
 
 In some country places remote from principal towms, 
 it is a practice to dip whisks into yeast, then beat it 
 well, and hang up the whisks, w ith the yeast in them, 
 to dry; and if there be no brewing till two months 
 afterwards, the beating and stirring one of the w hisks 
 in new wort will soon raise a w orking or fermentation. 
 It is a rule, that all liquor should be w T orked well in 
 
BREWING. 
 
 r> *, g 
 *JbO 
 
 the tun, before it is put into the vessel, otherwise it 
 will not easily grow fine. Some follow the rule of 
 beating down the yeast pretty often while it is in the 
 tun, and keep it there working for two or three days, 
 observing to put it into the vessel just when the yeast 
 begins to fall. This liquor is in general very fine, 
 whereas, on the contrary, that which is put into the 
 vessel soon after it is brewed will be several months 
 before it comes to a proper state of perfection. 
 
 We have before taken notice of the season for brew 
 ing malt liquors to keep. But it may not be improper 
 further to observe, that if the cellars are subject to the 
 heat of the sun, or warm summer air, it will be best 
 to brew in October, that the liquor may have time to 
 digest before the warm season comes on ; and if cel- 
 lars are subject to damp, and to receive water, the best 
 time will be to brew in March. Some experienced 
 brewers always choose to brew with the pale malt in 
 March, and the brown in October; supposing, that the 
 pale malt, being made w T ith a less degree of fire than 
 the other, wants the summer sun to ripen it; and so, 
 on the contrary, the brown, having had a larger share 
 of the fire to dry it, is more capable of defending itself 
 against the cold of the winter season. 
 
 All that remains further to be said relative to the 
 management of malt liquors, we shall preserve in 
 
 SECT. IX. 
 
 Containing the proper Method of bottling Malt 
 
 Liquors. 
 
 As a necessary preparation for executing this busi- 
 ness properly, great attention must be paid to your 
 bottles, which must first be w ell cleaned and dried ; 
 for wet bottles will make the liquor turn mouldy or 
 mothery, as it is called ; and by wet bottles a great 
 deal of good beer is frequently spoiled. Though the 
 bottles may be clean and dry, yet, if the corks are not 
 new and sound, the liquor will be still* liable to be 
 damaged ; for, if the air can get into the bottles, the 
 
344 
 
 EREWING. 
 
 liquor will grow flat, and never rise. Many who have 
 flattered themselves they knew how to be saving, by 
 using old corks on this occasion, have spoiled as much 
 liquor as stood them in four or five pounds, only for 
 want of laying out three or four shillings. If bottles 
 are corked as they should be, it will be difficult to draw 
 the cork without a screw ; and to secure the drawing 
 of the cork without breaking, the screw ought to go 
 through the cork, and then the air must necessarily find 
 a passage where the screw has passed. If a cork had 
 once been in a bottle, though it has not been drawn 
 with a screw, yet that cork will turn musty as soon as 
 exposed to the air, and will communicate its ill flavour 
 to the bottle in which it is next put, and spoil the liquor 
 that way. In the choice of corks, take those that are 
 soft and clear from specks. You may also observe, in 
 the bottling of liquor, that the top and middle of the 
 hogshead are the strongest, and will sooner rise in 
 the bottles than the bottom. When you begin to 
 bottle a vessel of any liquor, be sure not to leave it 
 till all is completed, otherwise it will have different 
 tastes. 
 
 If you find a vessel of liquor begins to grow flat 
 whilst it is in common draught, bottle it, and into every 
 bottle put a piece of loaf sugar of about the size of a 
 walnut, which will make it rise and come to itself : 
 and, to forward its ripening, you may set some bottles 
 in hay in a warm place ; but straw will not assist its 
 ripening. 
 
 If you shoidd have the opportunity of brewing a 
 good stock of small beer in March and October, some 
 of it may be bottled at the end of six months, putting 
 into every bottle a lump of loaf sugar; which, in the 
 summer, will make it a very pleasant and refreshing 
 drink. Or if you happen to brew in summer, and 
 are desirous of brisk small beer, as soon as it is done 
 working, bottle it as before directed. 
 
 Where your cellars happen not to be properly calcu- 
 lated for the preservation of your beer, you may use 
 the following expedient * Sink holes in the ground, put 
 
BREWING. 
 
 345 
 
 into them large oil-jars, and fill up the earth close about 
 the sides. One of the jars will hold about two dozen 
 bottles, and will keep the liquor in proper order; but 
 care must be taken that the tops of the jars are kept 
 close covered. In winter time, when the weather is 
 frosty, shut up all the lights or windows of your cellars, 
 and cover them close with horse-dung, which will keep 
 your beer in a very proper and temperate state. 
 
 We shall close this section and chapter with that 
 information, which, if properly attended to, may be 
 found, at times, of the highest convenience and utility. 
 
 To Preserve Yeast. 
 
 If you wish to preserve a large stock of yeast, which 
 will keep and be of use for several months, either for 
 brewing, or to make bread or cakes, you must follow 
 these directions. When you have plenty of yeast, and 
 are apprehensive of a future scarcity, take a quantity 
 of it, stir and work it w ell with a whisk, until it be- 
 comes liquid and thin. Then get a large wooden platter, 
 cooler or tub, clean and dry, and with a soft brush lay 
 a thin layer of yeast on the tub, and turn the mouth 
 downwards, that no dust may fall upon it, but so that 
 the air may get under to dry it. When that coat is 
 very dry, then lay on another, and so on till you have 
 a sufficient quantity, even two or three inches thick, 
 always taking care that the yeast is very dry in the 
 tub before you lay any more on, and this will keep 
 good for several months. When you have occasion to 
 use this yeast, cut a piece off, and lay it into warm 
 water; then stir it together, and it wall be fit for use. 
 If it is for brewing, take a large handful of birch tied 
 together, dip it into the yeast, and hang it up to dry. 
 In this manner you may do as many as you please ; 
 but take care no dust comes to it. When your beer is 
 fit to set to work, throw in one of these, and it will 
 make it work as well as if you had made fresh yeast. 
 
 No. 15. 2 X 
 
346 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR TRUSSING POULTRY, 
 
 THERE are various reasons why the experienced 
 and prudent housekeeper should be properly acquaint- 
 ed with this necessary preparation to the Art of 
 Cookery. In London every article is generally trussed 
 by the poulterer of whom it is bought ; but it frequent- 
 ly happeus that, either from inexperience or negligence 
 of the servants, and want of knowledge in the cook, 
 the article appears on the table with disgrace. Another 
 very substantial reason for the cook having this know 
 ledge is, that the families in which they serve are fre- 
 quently in counties where there are no poulterers, and 
 consequently they are under the necessity of killing 
 and trussing their own poultry. To be prepared, 
 therefore, for the execution of this business, we recom- 
 mend a proper attention to the following general rules : 
 be careful that all the stubs are perfectly taken out ; 
 and when you draw any kind of poultry, you must be 
 very particular to avoid breaking the gall, for should 
 that happen, no means can be used to take away that 
 bitterness, which will totally destroy the natural and 
 proper taste of the article dressed. Great care should 
 likewise be taken that you do not break the gut join- 
 ing to the gizzard ; for, should this happen, the inside 
 will be gritty, and the whole spoiled. These are to be 
 attended to as general matters. We shall proceed to 
 particulars, beginning with 
 
 Turkeys. 
 
 Having properly picked your turkey, break the leg 
 bone close to the foot, and draw out the strings from 
 the thigh, for which purpose you must hang it on a 
 hook fastened against the wall. Cut off the neck close 
 to the back ; but be careful to leave the crop skin suffi- 
 ciently long to turn over the back. Then proceed to 
 take out the crop, and loosen the liver and gut at the 
 throat end with your middle linger. Then cut off the 
 
'TRUSSING 
 
TRUSSING POULTRY. 347 
 
 vent, and takeout the gut. Pull out the gizzard with 
 a crooked, sharp pointed iron, and the liver will soon 
 follow; but be careful not to break the gall. Wipe 
 the inside perfectly clean with a wet cloth ; having 
 done which, cut the breast-bone through on each side 
 close to the back, and draw the legs close to the crops. 
 Then put a cloth on the breast, and beat the high bone 
 down with a rolling-pin till it lies flat. If the turkey 
 is to be trussed for boiling, cut the legs off; then put 
 your middle finger into the inside, raise the skin of the 
 legs, and put them under the apron of the turkey. 
 Put a skewer into the joint of the wing and the middle 
 joint of the leg, and run it through the body and the 
 other leg and wing. The liver and gizzard must be 
 put in the pinions; but be careful first to open the 
 gizzard and take out the filth, and the gall of the liver. 
 Then turn the small end of the pinion on the back, 
 and tie a packthread over the ends of the legs to keep 
 them in their places. If the turkey is to be roasted, 
 leave the legs on, put a skewer in the joint of the wing, 
 tuck the legs close up, and put the skewer through 
 the middle of the legs and body. On the other side, 
 put another skewer in at the small part of the leg. 
 Put it close on the outside of the sidesman, and put 
 the skewer through, and the same on the other side. 
 Put the liver and gizzard between the pinions, and 
 turn the point of the pinion on the back. Then put, 
 close above the pinions, another skewer through the 
 body of the turkey. 
 
 If turkey-poults, they must be trussed as follow : 
 take the neck from the head and body, but do not re- 
 move the neck skin. They are drawn in the same 
 manner as a turkey. Put a skewer through the joint 
 of the pinion, tuck the legs close up, run the skewer 
 through the middle of the leg, through the body, and 
 so on the other side. Cut off the under part of the 
 bill, twist the skin of the neck round, and put the head 
 on the point of the skewer, w 7 ith the bill-end forwards. 
 Another skewer must be put in the sidesman, and the 
 legs placed between the sidesman and apron on each 
 
31 3 
 
 TRUSSING 
 
 side. Pass the skewer through all, and cut off the 
 toe-nails. It is very common to lard them on the 
 breast. The liver and gizzard may or may not be 
 used, as you like. 
 
 Fowls . 
 
 When you have properly picked your fowls, cut oil 
 the neck close to the back. Then take out the crop, 
 and with your middle linger loosen the liver and other 
 matters. Cut off the vent, draw it clean, and beat 
 the breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin. If your fowl 
 is to be boiled, cut off the nails of the feet, and tuck 
 them down close to the legs. Put your finger into 
 the inside, and raise the skin of the legs; then cut a 
 hole in the top of the skin, and put the legs under. 
 Put a skewer in the first joint of the pinion, bring the 
 middle of the leg close to it, put the skewer through 
 the middle of the leg, and through the body; and then 
 do the same on the other side. Having opened the 
 gizzard, take out the filth, and the gall out of the liver. 
 Put the gizzard and the liver in the pinion, turn the 
 points on the back, and tie a string over the tops of the 
 legs to keep them in their proper place. If your fowl 
 is to be roasted, put a skewer in the first joint of the 
 pinion, and bring the middle of the leg close to it. Put 
 the skewer through the middle of the leg, and through 
 the body, and do the same on the other side. Put an- 
 other skewer in the small of the leg, and through the 
 sidesman ; do the same on the other side, and then 
 put another through the skin of the feet. You must 
 not forget to cut off the nails of the feet. 
 
 Chickens. 
 
 With respect to picking and drawing, they must 
 be done in the same manner as fowls. If they are to 
 be boiled, cut off the nails, give the sinews a nich on 
 each side of the joint, put the feet in at the vent, and 
 then peel the rump. Draw the skin tight over the legs, 
 put a skevVer in the first joint of the pinion, and bring 
 the middle of the leg close. Put the skewer through 
 the middle of the legs, and through the body, and do 
 
POULTRY. 
 
 SJ4U 
 
 the same on the other side. Clean the gizzard, and 
 take out the gall in the liver ; put them into the pinions, 
 and turn the points on the back. If your chickens are 
 to be roasted, cut off the feet, put a skewer in the first 
 joint ot the pinions, and bring the middle of the leg 
 close. Run the skewer through the middle of the leg, 
 and through the body, and do the same on the other 
 side. Put another skewer into the sidesman, put the 
 legs between the apron and the sidesman, and run the 
 skewe through. Having cleaned the liver and giz- 
 zard, put them in the pinions, turn the points on the 
 back, and pull the breast skin over the neck. 
 
 Geese. 
 
 Hav ing picked and stubbed your goose clean, cut 
 the feet off at the joint, and the pinion off the first joint. 
 Then cut off’ the neck almost close to the back ; but 
 leave the skin of the neck long enough to turn over 
 the back. Pull out the throat, and tie a knot at the 
 end. With your middle finger loosen the liver and 
 other matters at the breast end, and cut it open be- 
 tween the vent and the rump. Having done this, draw 
 out all the entrails, excepting the soul. Wipe it out 
 clean with a wet cloth, and beat the breast bone flat 
 with a rolling-pin. Put a skewer into the wing, and 
 draw the legs close up. Put the skewer through the 
 middle of the leg, and through the body, and the same 
 on the other side. Put another skewer in the small 
 of the leg, tuck it close down to the sidesman, run it 
 through, and do the same on the other side. Cut off 
 the end of the vent, and make a hole large enough for 
 the passage of the rump, as by that means it will much 
 better keep in the seasoning. 
 
 Ducks are trussed in the same manner, except that 
 the feet must be left on, and turned close to the legs. 
 
 Pigeons. 
 
 When you have picked them, and cut off the neck 
 close to the back, then take out the crop, cut off the 
 vent, and draw out the guts and gizzard, but leave 
 
350 
 
 TRUSSING 
 
 the liver, for a pigeon has no gall. If thev are to be 
 roasted, cut off the toes, cut a slit in one of the legs, 
 and put the other through it. Draw the leg tight to 
 the pinion, put a skewer through the pinions, legs, and 
 body, and aa ith the handle of the knife break the breast 
 flat. Clean the gizzard, put it in one of the pinions, 
 and turn the points on the back. If you intend to make 
 a pie of them, you must cut the feet off at the joint, 
 turn the legs, and stick them in the sides close to the 
 pinions. If they are to be stewed or boiled, they must 
 be done in the same manner. 
 
 Wild Fowl. 
 
 Hav ing picked them clean, cut off the neck close 
 to the back, and Avith your middle finger loosen the 
 liver and guts next the breast. Cut off the pinions at 
 the first joint, then cut a slit between the vent and the 
 rump, and draw them clean. Clean them properly 
 with the long feathers on the AA'ing, cut off the nails, 
 and turn the feet close to the legs. Put a skewer in 
 the pinion, pull the legs close to the breast, and run 
 the skewer through the legs, body, and the other pin- 
 ion. First cut off the vent, and then put the rump 
 through it. The directions here given are to be fol- 
 lowed in trussing every kind of Avild fowl. 
 
 Pheasants and Partridges. 
 
 Hav ing picked them very clean, cut a slit at the 
 back of the neck, take out the crop, and loosen the 
 liver and gut next the breast with your fore-finger, 
 then cut off the vent and draw 7 them. Cut off the 
 pinion at the first joint, and w ipe out the inside with 
 the pinion you have cut off. Beat the breast bone flat 
 with a rolling-pin, put a skew T er in the pinion, and bring 
 the middle of the legs close. Then run the skew r er 
 through the legs, body, and the other pinion, twist 
 the head, and put it on the end of the skewer, with the 
 bill fronting the breast. Put another skewer into the 
 sidesman, and put the legs close on each side the apron, 
 and then run the skewer through all. If you would 
 
POULTRY. 
 
 351 
 
 wish to make the pheasant (if it is a cock) have a plea- 
 sing appearance on the table, leave the beautiful fea- 
 thers on the head, and cover them gently with paper 
 to prevent their being injured by the heat of the fire 
 You may likewise save the long feathers in the tail to 
 stick in the rump when roasted. If they are for boil 
 ing, put the legs in the same manner as in trussing a 
 fowl. 
 
 All kinds of moor game must be trussed in the same 
 manner. 
 
 Woodcocks and Snipes. 
 
 As these birds are remarkably tender to pick, espe- 
 cially if they should not happen to be quite fresh, the 
 greatest care must be taken how you handle them ; for 
 even the heat of the hand will sometimes take off the 
 skin, which will totally destroy the beautiful appear- 
 ance of the bird. Having picked them clean, cut the 
 pinions of the first joint, and with the handle of a knife 
 beat the breast-bone flat. Turn the legs close to the 
 thighs, and tie them together at the joints. Put the 
 thigh close to the pinions, put a skewer into the pin- 
 ions, and run it through the thighs, body, and the 
 other pinion. Skin the head, turn it, take out the eyes, 
 and put the head on the point of the skewer, with the 
 bill close to the breast. Remember, that these birds 
 must never be drawn. 
 
 Larks. 
 
 When you have picked them properly, cut off their 
 heads, and the pinions of the first joint. Beat the 
 breast-bone flat, and turn the feet close to the legs, 
 and put one into the other. Draw out the gizzard, 
 and run a skewer through the middle of the bodies. 
 Tie the skewer fast to the spit when you put them 
 down to roast. Wheat ears, and other small birds, 
 must be done in the same manner. 
 
 Hares. 
 
 Having cut off the four legs at the first joint, raise 
 the skin of the back, and draw it over the hind legs. 
 Leave the tail whole, draw the skin over the back, 
 
352 
 
 TRUSSING POULTRY. 
 
 and slip out the fore-legs. Cut the skin off the neck 
 and head; but take care to leave the ears on, and 
 mind to skin them. Take out the liver, lights, &c. 
 and be sure to draw the gut out of the vent. Cut the 
 sinews that lie under the hind-legs, bring them up to 
 the fore-legs, put a skewer through the hind-leg, then 
 through the fore-leg under the joint, run it through the 
 bodv, and do the same on the other side. Put another 
 skewer through the thick part of the hind-legs and 
 body, put the head between the shoulders, and run a 
 skewer through to keep it in its place. Put a skewer 
 in each ear to make them stand erect, and tie a string 
 round the middle of the body over the legs to keep 
 them in their place. A young fawn must be trussed 
 just in the same manner, except that the ears must be 
 cut off. 
 
 Rabbits must be cased much in Ihe same manner 
 as hares, only observing to cut off the ears close to the 
 head. Cut open the vent, and slit the legs about an 
 inch up on each side of the rump. Make the hind-legs 
 lie flat, and bring the ends to the fore-legs. Put a 
 skewer into the hind-leg, then into the fore-leg, and 
 through the body. Bring the head round, and put it 
 on the skewer. If you want to roast two together, 
 truss them at full length with six skewers run through 
 them both, so that they may be properly fastened on 
 the spit. 
 
1 HE 
 
 ART OF CARVING. 
 
 NOTHING can be more disagreeable to a person who is placed 
 t»( the head of a table, and whose business it is to pay the necessary 
 honours to guests invited, than to be defective in not being properly 
 able to carve the different articles provided. From the want of 
 knowledge in this particular, it must naturally become no less painful 
 to the person who undertakes the task, than uncomfortable to those 
 who are waiting for the compliment of being served. Abilities and 
 dexterity in this art are striking qualifications in the eyes of every 
 company, and are material instruments of forming the necessary and 
 polite graces of the table. 
 
 The instructions here laid down by words, are materially enliven- 
 ed by the representations of the respective articles described, so that 
 the young and inexperienced may, by proper attention to the descrip- 
 tion, and reference to the plates, soon make themselves proficients 
 in this useful and polite art. 
 
 We shall commence the subject with describing the method of 
 carving 
 
 A Roast Fowl. 
 
 In the plate the fowl is placed in the centre, and is represented as 
 ly ing on its side, with one of the legs, wings, and neck-bone, taken 
 off. Whether the fowl is roasted or boiled, it must be cut up in the 
 same manner. A roasted fowl is sent to table nearly in the same 
 manner as a pheasant, excepting that the pheasant has the head 
 tucked under one of the wings, whereas the fowl has the head cut off 
 before it is dressed. In a boiled fowl (which is represented in the 
 same olate) the legs are bent inwards, and tucked into the belly ; but, 
 previous to its being sent to table, the skewers are withdrawn. The 
 most convenient method of cutting up a fowl is to lay it on your 
 plate, and, as you separate the joints, in the line a, b, d, put them 
 
 into the dish. — — 
 
 The legs, wings, and merry-thought being removed, the next thing 
 is to cut off the neck-bones. This is done by putting in the knife at 
 g, and passing it under the long broad part of the bone in the line g, b, 
 then lifting it up, and breaking off the end of the shorter part of the 
 bone, which cleaves to the breast-bone. All the parts being thus 
 separated from the carcase, divide the breast from the back, by cut- 
 tin ff through the tender ribs on each side, from the neck quite down 
 to the vent or tail. Then lay the back upwards on your plate, fix 
 your fork under the rump, and laying the edge of your knife in the 
 hue b, c, c, and pressing it down, lift up the tail, or lower part of the 
 
 2 Y 
 
354 
 
 CARVING. 
 
 back, and it will readily divide with the help of your knife in the line 
 b , e, c. In the next place, lay the lower part of the back upwards in 
 
 your plate, with the rump from you, and cut off the side-bones, (or 
 sidesmen, as they are generally called,) by forcing the knife through 
 the rump-bone, in the line e,f, when your fowl will be completely 
 cut up. 
 
 Boiled Fowl. 
 
 We have before observed, that a boiled fowl is cut up in the same 
 manner as one roasted. In the representation of this the fowl is com- 
 plete, whereas in that part of the other it is in part dissected. Those 
 parts, which are generally considered as the most prime, are the 
 wings, breast, and merry-thought, and next to these the neck-bones, 
 and sidesmen. The legs of boiled fowls are more tender than those 
 that are roasted ; but every part of a chicken is good and juicy. As 
 the thigh bones of a chicken are very tender, and easily broken with 
 the teeth, the gristles and marrow render them very delicate. In the 
 boiled fowl the leg should be separated from the drum-stick, at the 
 joint, which is easily done, if the knife is introduced into the hollow, 
 and the thigh-bone turned back from the leg-bone. 
 
 Partridge. 
 
 The Partridge is here represented as just taken from the spit; but 
 before it is served up, the skewers must be withdrawn. It is cut up 
 in the same manner as a fowl. The wings must be taken off in the 
 lines a , 6, and the merry-thought in the line c. d. The prime parts 
 of a partridge are, the wings, breast, and merry- thought. The wing 
 is considered as the best, and the tip of it reckoned the most delicate 
 morsel of the whole. 
 
 Pigeons. 
 
 Here are the representations of two, the one with the back upper- 
 most, and the other with the breast. — That with the back uppermost 
 is marked No. 1. and that with the breast No. 2. Pigeons are some- 
 times cut up in the same manner as chickens. But as the lower 
 part, with the thigh, is in general most preferred, and as, from its 
 small size, half a one is not too much for most appetites, they are 
 seldom carved now, otherwise than by fixing the fork at the point a, 
 entering the knife just before it, and dividing the pigeon into two, 
 cutting away in the lines a, b , and a , c, No. 1, at the same time bring- 
 ing the knife out at the back, in the direction a, b, and a, c, No. 2. 
 
 A Pheasant. 
 
 In the representation here given, the bird appears in a proper 
 state for the spit, with the head tucked under one of the wings. 
 When laid in the dish, the skewers drawn, and the bird carried to 
 table, it must be carved as follows : fix your fork on that part of the 
 breast where the two dots are marked, by which means you will have 
 a full command of the bird, and can turn it as you think proper. 
 Slice down the breast in the lines «, 6, and then proceed to take off 
 the leg on one side, in the direction d, e, or in the circular dotted 
 
C ARVING. 
 
 355 
 
 line b , d. This done, cut off the wing on the same side, in the line 
 c, d. When you have separated the leg and wing on one side, do 
 the same on the other, and then cut off, or separate from the breast- 
 bone, on each side of the breast, the parts you before sliced or cut 
 down. Be very attentive in taking off the wing. Cut it in the 
 notch a, for if you cut too near the neck, as at g, you will find your- 
 self interrupted by the neck-bone, from whence the wing must be 
 separated. Having done this, cut off the merry-thought in the line 
 /, g, by passing the knife under it towards the neck. With respect 
 to the remaining parts, they are to be cut up in the same manner as 
 directed for a roast fowl. The parts most admired in a pheasant are, 
 first, the breast, then the wings, and next the merry-thought. 
 
 A Goose. 
 
 Let the neck-end lie before you, and begin by cutting two or 
 three long slices on each side the breast, in the lines a, b, quite to the 
 bone. Cut these slices from the bone, then take off the leg, turning 
 the goose up on one side, putting the fork through the small end of 
 the leg bone, and pressing it close to the body, which, when the knife 
 has entered at d, will easily raise the joint. Then pass the knife 
 under the leg in the direction d, e. If the leg hangs to the carcase, 
 at the point e, turn it back with the fork, and, if the goose is young, 
 it will easily separate. Having removed the leg, proceed to take off 
 the wing, by passing the fork through the small end of the pinion, 
 pressing it close to the body, and entering the knife at the notch c, 
 and passing it under the wing in the direction c, d. This is a very 
 nice thing to hit, and can only be acquired by practice. When you 
 have taken off the leg and wing on one side, do the same on the 
 other. Then cut off the apron in the line/, c, g, having done which, 
 take off the merry-thought in the line i, h. All the other parts are to 
 be taken off in the same manner as directed for the fowl. A goose 
 is seldom quite dissected, unless the company is very large, in which 
 case the above method must be pursued. 
 
 The parts of a goose most esteemed are, the slices from the 
 breast; the fleshy part of the wing, which may be divided from the 
 pinion ; the thigh-bone, (or drum-stick as it is called,) the pinion, and 
 the side-bones. If sage and onions are put into the body of the goose, 
 (which is by most approved of,) when you have cut off the limbs, 
 draw it out with a spoon at the place from whence the apron is taken, 
 and mix it with the gravy, which should first be poured boiling hot 
 into the body of the goose. Some people are particularly fond of the 
 rump, which, after being nicked with a knife, is peppered and salted, 
 and then broiled till it is of a nice light brown ; and this is distin- 
 guished by the epithet of a devil. The same is likewise done by the 
 rump of a turkey- 
 
 Haunch of Venison. 
 
 First cut it across down the bone, in the line b , c, a , then turn the 
 dish with the end d, towards you, put in the point of the knife at o, 
 and cut it down as deep as you can in the direction c, d, so that the 
 iwo strokes will then form the resemblance of the letter T, Having 
 
356 
 
 CARVING. 
 
 cut it thus, you may cut as many slices as are necessary, according 
 to the number of the company, cutting them either on the right or 
 left. As the fat lies deeper on the left between d and a, those who 
 are fond of fat, (as is the case with most admirers of venison,) the best 
 flavoured and fattest slices will be found on the left of the line e , d, 
 supposing the end d turned towards you. In cutting the slices, re- 
 member that they must not be either too thick or too thin. With 
 each slice of lean add a proper proportion of fat, and put a sufficient 
 quantity of gravy into each plate. Currant-jelly should always be on 
 the table for those who choose it. Indeed this is generally used by 
 most. 
 
 A Fore-Quarter of Lamb. 
 
 This joint is always roasted, and when it comes to table, before 
 you can help any one, you must separate the shoulder from the breast 
 and ribs, (or what is by some called the coast,) by passing the knife 
 under, in the direction c, g, d, e. The shoulder, being then taken 
 off, the juice of a lemon, or Seville orange, should be squeezed upon 
 the part it was taken from, a little salt added, and the shoulder re- 
 placed. The gristly part must then be separated from the ribs in the 
 line f g , and then all the preparatory business to serving will be 
 done. The ribs are generally most esteemed, and one, two, or more 
 may be easily separated from the rest, in the line a, b : but to those 
 who prefer the gristly part, a piece or two may be cut off in the lines 
 h, i, &c. If you should have a fore-quarter of grass lamb that runs 
 large, the shoulder, when cut off", must be put into another dish, and 
 carved in the same manner as a shoulder of mutton. 
 
 A Pig. 
 
 A pig is seldom sent whole to table, but is usually cut up by the 
 cook, who takes off the head, splits the body down the back, and 
 garnishes the dish with the chops and ears. 
 
 Before you help any one at table, first separate the shoulders from 
 the carcase, and then the legs, according to the direction given by 
 •he dotted line r, d, e. The most delicate part of a pig is that about 
 the neck, which may be cut off in the line f g. The next best parts 
 are the ribs, which may be divided in the line a, b, &c. and the others 
 are pieces cut from the legs and shoulders. Indeed the bones of a 
 pig are little else than gristle, so that it may be cut in any part with- 
 out the least difficulty. It produces such a variety of delicate bits, 
 that the fancies of most may be readily gratified. 
 
 Shoulder of Mutton. 
 
 This Is a very fine joint, and by many preferred to the leg, it being 
 very full of gravy, if properly roasted, and producing many nice bits. 
 The figure No. 1, represents it as laid in the dish with the back up- 
 permost. When it is first cut, it should be in the hollow part of it in 
 the direction a , b, and the knife should be passed deep to the bone. 
 The gravy will then run fast into the dish, the part will immediately 
 •pen, and many fine slices will be readily cut from it. The prime 
 
CARVING. 
 
 357 
 
 part of the fat lies on the outer edge, and is to be cut out in thin slices 
 in the direction e, f. If many are at table, and the hollow part cut in 
 the line a, 6, is eaten, some very good and delicate slices may be cut 
 out on each side the ridge of the blade-bone, in the direction c, d. 
 The line between these two dotted lines, is that in the direction of 
 which the edge, or ridge of the blade-bone lies, and cannot be cut 
 across. 
 
 No. 2 represents the under-side, where there are two parts very 
 full of gravy, and such as many prefer to the upper-side. One is a 
 deep cut in the direction g , /t, accompanied with fat, and the other all 
 lean, in a line from i to k. The parts above the shank are coarse 
 and dry ; but yet some prefer this to the rich and more juicy parts. 
 
 A Saddle of Mutton. 
 
 This is by some called a chine of mutton, and consists of the two 
 loins together, the back-bone running down the middle of the tail. 
 When you carve it you must cut a long slice in either of the fleshy 
 parts, on the side of the back-bone, in the direction a, b. There is 
 seldom any great length of tail left on, but if it is sent up with the tail, 
 many will be fond of it, and it may be easily divided into several 
 pieces, by cutting between the joints of the tail, which are about an 
 inch apart. 
 
 A Cod’s Head. 
 
 Fish in general requires very little carving, the fleshy parts being 
 those principally esteemed. A cod’s head and shoulders, when in 
 season, and properly boiled, is a very genteel and handsome dish. 
 When cut, it should be done with a spoon fish-trowel, and the parts 
 about the back-bone on the shoulders are the most firm and best. 
 Take off a piece quite down to the bone, in the direction a, b, c, d 
 putting in the spoon at a, c, and with each slice of fish give a piece 
 of the round, which lies underneath the back-bone and lines it, the 
 meat of which is thin, and a little darker coloured than the body of 
 the fish itself, this may be got by passing a knife or spoon underneath, 
 in the direction r/,/. About the head are many delicate parts, some 
 fine kernels, and a great deal of the jelly kind. The jelly parts lie 
 about the jaw bones, and the firm parts within the head. Some are 
 fond of the palate, and others the tongue, which likewise may be got, 
 by putting a spoon into the mouth, in the direction of the line c. 
 
 A Piece of Boiled Salmon. 
 
 The fattest and richest part of salmon is the belly ; it is therefore 
 customary to give to those who like both, a thin slice of each ; the 
 one cut out of the belly in the direction c, d, the other out of the back 
 in the line a, b. Most people who are fond of salmon generally like 
 the skin, so that the slices must be cut thin with the skin on. 
 
 A Mac/carel. 
 
 Slit the fish all along the back in the line a, e, b, and take off* the 
 whole side, as far as the line b, c, not too near the head, as the meat 
 
358 
 
 CARVING. 
 
 above the gills is generally black, and ill flavoured. The roe of a male 
 fish is soft, but that of the female is hard, and full of small eggs. 
 
 A Calf’s Head. 
 
 In carving this, begin by cutting the flesh quite along the cheek 
 bone, in the direction c, b, from whence several handsome slices may 
 be taken. In the fleshy part, at the end of the jaw-bone, lies part of 
 the throat-sweet-bread, which may be cut into, in the line c, d, and 
 which is esteemed the best part in the head. Many like the eye, 
 which is to be cut from its socket a, by forcing the point of the knife 
 down to the bottom of one edge of the socket, and cutting quite 
 round, keeping the point of the knife slanting towards the middle, so 
 as to separate the meat from the bone. The palate is also reckoned 
 by some very delicate : it lies on the under side of the roof of the 
 mouth ; is a wrinkled, white, thick skin, and may be easily separated 
 from the bone bv a knife, by raising the head with your left hand. 
 There is also some nice tender bits on the under side, covering the 
 under jaw, and some delicately gristly fat to be pared off about the 
 ear, g. In the upper-jaw is the large tooth behind, which, having se- 
 veral cells, and being full of jelly, is called the sweet-tooth ; but its 
 delicacy is more in the name than any thing else. When you serve 
 any person with a slice of the head, you must inquire whether they 
 choose to have any of the tongue and brains, which are generally 
 served up in a separate dish. A slice from the thick part of the 
 tongue, near the root, is the best. 
 
 Leg of Mutton. 
 
 A leg of wether Mutton, which is by far the best flavoured, may 
 be readily known by the kernel, or little round lump of fat, just above 
 the letters a, e. This joint, whether boiled or roasted, is carved in 
 the same manner. The person who does this business should turn 
 the joint towards him as it here lies, the shank to the left hand ; then 
 holding it sieady with his fork, he should cut it deep on the fleshy 
 part, in the hollow of the thigh, quite to the bone, in the direction 
 o, b. Then will he cut it right through the kernel of fat called the 
 pope’s ey , of which many are particularly fond. The most juicy 
 parts of the leg are in the thick part of it, from the line a , b, upward, 
 towards e ; but many prefer the drier part, about the shank or 
 knuckle, which some call the venison part, from its eating so short ; 
 but this is certainly the coarsest part of the joint. The fat lies 
 chiefly on the ridges e, e, and is to be cut in the direction e, f. In 
 order to cut out what is by some called the cramp-bone, and by others 
 the gentleman’s bone, you must take hold of the shank-bone with 
 your left hand, and cutting down to the thigh-bone at the point d, 
 then passing the knife under the cramp-bone, in the direction d, c, it 
 may easily be cut out. 
 
 A Ham.. 
 
 A ham is cut two ways, either across in the line b , c , or in the cir- 
 cular line in the middle, taking out a small piece as at a, and cutting 
 thin slices in a circular direction, thus enlarging it by degrees. This 
 
(•AiRvi^a 
 
CARVING. 359 
 
 last method is, to preserve the gravy and keep it moist, which is thua 
 prevented from running out. 
 
 Piece of Sirloin of Beef 
 
 As a whole sirloin is too large for families in general, so we have 
 here only represented a part, either of which must be carved in the 
 same manner. It is drawn as standing up in the dish, in order to show 
 the inside, or upper part ; but when sent to table, it is always laid 
 down, so that the part described by the letter c, lies close on the 
 dish. The part c, d , then lies uppermost, and the line a, b, under- 
 neath. The meat on the upper side of the ribs is firmer, and of a 
 closer texture, than the fleshy part underneath, which is by far the 
 most tender, and of course preferred by many. To those who like 
 the upper side, the outside slice should be first cut off, quite down to 
 the bone, in the direction c, d. Some people, however, instead of 
 beginning to carve at either end, cut it in the middle of the most 
 fleshy part. For those who prefer the inside, several slices may be 
 cut in the direction of the line a , b, pressing the knife down to the 
 bone. But wherever the slices are cut they must be of a moderate 
 substance, neither too thick nor too thin. 
 
 Edge-bone of Beef. 
 
 The outside of this joint is generally injured in its flavour from 
 the water in which it is boiled ; a thick slice must therefore be cut 
 off, the whole length of the joint, beginning at u , and cutting it all 
 the way even and through the whole surface, from a to b. The soft 
 fat, which resembles marrow, lies on the back below the letter «/, 
 and the firm fat must be cut in thin horizontal slices at the points c ; 
 but as some people like the soft, and some the firm fat, it is neces- 
 sary to ask the company which they prefer. The upper part, as it 
 is generally placed in the dish, is the handsomest, fullest of gravy, 
 most tender, and enriched with fat ; but there are some who prefer 
 a slice from the under-side, though it is lean and dry. The skewer 
 that keeps the meat properly together when boiling is here shown at 
 a. This should be drawn out before it is served up ; or, if it is ne- 
 cessary to leave the skewer in, it should be a silver one. 
 
 Brisket of Beef. 
 
 This is a part always boiled, and must be cut in the direction a, b , 
 quite down to the bone, after having cut off the outside, or first slice, 
 which must be cut pretty thick. The fat cut with this slice is a firm, 
 gristly fat, but a softer fat is found underneath for those who pre- 
 fer it. 
 
 Breast of Veal. 
 
 A breast of veal must be cut across quite through, dividing the 
 gristles from the rib-bones : this is called cutting the brisket from the 
 ribs. The brisket may be cut into pieces as wanted ; for some pre- 
 fer this part to the ribs. There requires no great direction how to 
 separate the ribs, since nothing more is required than to put the 
 knife in at the top between any two, and continue downwards till 
 
360 
 
 CARVING. 
 
 they are separated. Remember to give a piece of the sweetbread 
 to every one you help, as that is reckoned particularly delicate. 
 
 Fillet of Veal. 
 
 This part of the calf is the same as that called the buttock in the 
 ox. Many people think the outside slice of a fillet of veal a delicacy, 
 because it is most savoury ; but as some think otherwise, the ques- 
 tion should be asked before any one is helped. If no one chooses 
 the first slice, lay it in the dish, and the second cut will be exceeding 
 white and delicate ; but take care to cut it even and close to the 
 bone. A fillet of veal is always stuffed under the skirt or flap, with 
 a pudding, or forcemeat. This you must cut deep into, in a line 
 with the surface of the fillet, and take out a thin slice. This, and a 
 thin slice of fat cut from the skirt, must be given to each person 
 at table. 
 
 Sparerib of Pork. 
 
 This is carved by cutting out slices in the thick part at the bottom 
 of the bones. When the fleshy part is all cut away, the bones, which 
 are esteemed very sweet picking, may be easily separated. Few 
 people admire the gravy of pork, it being too strong for most 
 stomachs. 
 
 Rabbits. 
 
 To unlace a rabbit, the back must be turned downward, and the 
 apron divided from the belly. This done, slip your knife between 
 the kidneys, loosening the flesh on each side. Then turn the belly, 
 cut the back crossways between the wings, and draw your knife 
 down both sides of the back-bone, dividing the sides and legs from 
 the back. Observe not to pull the leg too violently from the bone, 
 when you open the side ; but with great exactness lay open the sides 
 from scut to shoulder, and then put the legs together. 
 
 Woodcocks. 
 
 To thigh a woodcock, you must raise the legs and wings in the 
 same manner as you do a fowl, only open the head for the brains. 
 In like manner you thigh curlews, plovers, or snipes, using no other 
 sauce than salt. 
 
 Mallards or Ducks. 
 
 To unbrace a mallard or duck, first raise the pinions and legs, but 
 do not cut them off. Then raise the merry-thought from the breast, 
 and lace it down both sides with your knife. 
 
 Buttock of Beef. 
 
 This part is always boiled, and requires little directions as to the 
 carving of it. A thick slice should be first taken off - all round it. 
 When you come to the juicy and prime part of it, you must be careful 
 to cut it even, that it may have a graceful figure, should it be brought 
 to table cold the next day. 
 
THE NEW 
 
 FAMILY RECEIPT-BOOK. 
 
 German method of Clarifying and Preserving Fresh Putter. 
 
 A valuable article, the original communication of an ingenious 
 traveller, who resided many years in Germany. “ The peculiar ad- 
 vantage of clarified butter,” says this gentleman, “ though but little 
 known in England, is unequalled for most culinary purposes, for fry- 
 ing, and for general use in long sea-voyages, where no fresh butter 
 is to be had. Indeed this purified butter is equal to the best virgin 
 oils of Florence, Aix, or Lucca, for frying in perfection. At Vienna, 
 and in many other parts of Germany, it is sold in all the shops. The 
 best is purified at the dairies, during the cheapest season, and sent 
 to market in barrels and tubs ; it is then clarified. Set a large clean 
 tinned copper vessel on a trivet, over a charcoal fire ; and put in the 
 new butter, before it has taken any ill taste, but not in large portions 
 at a time. With the quantity of about fifty pounds, add a large 
 onion peeled and cut crossway. The whole must be closely watched, 
 and kept skimming the moment it begins to boil ; and the fire then 
 slackened, that it may only simmer for five minutes ; after which, if 
 it cannot be suddenly removed, the fire to be immediately extinguish- 
 ed. The onion then taken out, the butter to be left standing till every 
 impurity sinks to the bottom ; as all that has not risen to the skimmer 
 never fails doing. Large tin canisters, stone jars, or wooden ves- 
 sels made air-tight, holding about fifty pounds each, should receive 
 the liquid butter, and be kept closely covered up for use. This but- 
 ter should be constantly taken out as it is wanted, with a wooden 
 spoon ; neither the hand, nor any metal, ever suffered to touch it.” 
 
 Queen Elizabeth’s Cordial Electuary. 
 
 Boil a pint of the best honey ; and, having carefully taken off 
 all the scum, put into the clarified liquid a bundle of hyssop which 
 has been well bruised, previously to tying it up, and let them boil to- 
 gether till the honey tastes strongly of the hyssop. Then strain out 
 the honey very hard ; and, putting into it a quarter of an ounce eacn of 
 powdered liquorice root and aniseed, half that quantity of pulverized 
 elecampane and angelica roots, and one pennyweight each of finely 
 beaten pepper and ginger, let the whole boil together a short time, 
 being well stirred all the while. After which, pour it into a gallipot, 
 or a small jar, and continue stirring till it is quite cold. Keep it co- 
 vered up for use ; and, whenever troubled with straitness at the sto- 
 mach, or shortness of breath, take some of the electuary on a brui- 
 sed stick of liquorice, which will speedily afford relief. This is 
 said to have been Queen Elizabeth’s favourite remedy for all oppres- 
 sion at the stomach and shortness of breath, with which complaints 
 her majesty had been much afflicted; she lived till seventy-throe 
 years of age. 
 
4 
 
 THE NEW FAMILY 
 
 Genuine Friar's Balsam. 
 
 Put four ounces of sarsaparilla cut in short pieces, two ounces of 
 China root sliced thin, and an ounce of Virginian snake-weed cut 
 small, with one quart of spirits of wine, in a two quart bottle. Set 
 it in the sun, or any equal degree of heat, shaking it two or three 
 times a day, till the spirit be tinctured of a fine golden yellow. Then 
 clear off the infusion into another bottle ; and, putting in eight ounces 
 of gum guaicum, set it in the sun, or other similar heat ; shaking it 
 very often, till all the gum be dissolved, except the dregs, which will 
 generally be about ten or twelve days. It must now be a second time 
 cleared from the dregs ; and, having received an ounce of Peruvian 
 balsam, be well shaken, and again placed in the sun for two days ; 
 after which, an ounce of balm of Gilead being added, it is to be once 
 more shaken together, and finally set in the sun for fourteen days, 
 when it will become quite fit for use, and keep many years. There 
 were, formerly, scarcely any complaints, either external or internal, 
 for which this admirable balsam was not considered as an effectual 
 remedy. It has, in truth, many virtues, when properly made ; but, 
 as a mere vulnerary, for common flesh wounds, the simpler and 
 cheaper balsams, sold under the names of Friar’s Balsam, Turling- 
 ton’s balsam, and the Traumatic Balsam of the London Dispensatory, 
 are usually efficacious. Neither of these, however, nor any of the 
 other compound balsams, or restorative drops, formed on the basis 
 of this true Friar’s balsam, are so well adapted for internal use ; and 
 some of them, as commonly manufactured for sale, are quite unfit 
 for any such purpose. The dose of genuine F riar’s balsam, for 
 consumptions, or any inward ulcer, &c. is about half a table spoon- 
 ful, on a lump of sugar, or in any liquid vehicle, once or twice a day, 
 according to the urgency of the case, using moderate exercise while 
 in the habit of taking it. In any soreness of the stomach, and for 
 some coughs, twenty or thirty drops occasionally taken, often give 
 complete relief; and, in almost every weakness or debility, they may 
 be advantageously resorted to, as well as by persons afflicted with 
 scorbutic complaints, and other taints or impurities of the blood. 
 
 Excellent Lozenges for the Heart-burn. 
 
 Take calcined oyster shells, as found on the sea-coast, where they 
 are so blanched by time as to appear, both within and without, of the 
 whiteness of mother of pearl ; dry them well by the fire, and then 
 beat and sift them as fine as possible. In half a pound of this pow- 
 der mix half a pound of loaf sugar well beaten and sifted : and wet 
 it with a spoonful or two of milk and water, so as to form a very stiff 
 paste. Then mould the whole into neat lozenges, of any form 
 or size, and bake them very dry in so slack an oven as not to dis- 
 co'our them ; this will be effected after everything else is drawn. 
 These lozenges so effectually destroy that acidity in the stomach 
 which causes the heart-burn, as not only to prevent the disagreeable 
 sensation it occasions, but greatly to promote digestion. Their pow- 
 er in neutralizing acids may be easily tried, by dissolving one of them 
 in a glass of the sharpest vinegar. 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK. 
 
 £ 
 
 Decoction of the Beards of Leeks, for the Stone and Gravel. 
 
 Cut off a large handful of the beards of leeks ; and put them in 
 a pot or pipkin with two quarts of water, covered closely up, and to 
 be kept simmering till the liquor is reduced to a quart ; then to be 
 poured off, and drank every morning, noon, and evening, about the 
 third part of a pint each time. Half the quantity, or less, may be 
 sufficient for children, according to their respective ages, and the vio- 
 lence of the disease. The most desperate condition of this painful 
 disorder has frequently been cured by this seemingly-simple remedy 
 in little more than a month. It is best to keep making it fresh every 
 two or three days, which indeed is the case with most vegetable de- 
 coctions. 
 
 Instant Relief for a Pain and Lax State of the Bowels. 
 
 Take twelve drops of laudanum in half a gill of spirituous cin- 
 namon-water ; or, if that cannot be immediately had, in the best 
 brandy. This will seldom fail to give instant relief ; but, should it 
 so fail in the first instance, it may be repeated in about an hour. 
 
 The true Daffy's Elixir. 
 
 The popular medicine sold under this name is differently made by 
 different venders. The following, however, is considered as the ge- 
 nuine receipt for making it. — Take five ounces of aniseeds, three 
 ounces of fennel-seeds, four ounces of parsley-seeds, six ounces of 
 Spanish liquorice, five ounces of senna, one ounce of rhubarb, three 
 ounces of elecampane-root, seven ounces of jalap, twenty-one 
 drachms of saffron, six ounces of manna, two pounds of raisins, a 
 quarter of an ounce of cochineal, and two gallons of brandy. Stone the 
 raisins, slice the roots, and bruise the jalap. Then mix the whole to- 
 gether ; and, after letting them stand close covered for fifteen days, 
 strain out the elixir. So favourite a remedy has Daffy’s elixir been 
 for all colicky pains, during the last hundred years, that many fa- 
 milies have been enriched by its preparation and sale ; a few of whom 
 there is reason to believe, have used not half the ingredients above 
 enumerated. The cheap stuff, commonly sold as Daffy’s elixir, is 
 little more than an infusion of aniseeds, liquorice, and jalap, in the 
 coarsest and most fiery malt spirit, lowered with common water. 
 
 Infallible Remedy for the Ague. 
 
 Mix a quarter of an ounce each of finely powdered Peruvian bark, 
 grains of paradise, and long pepper, in a quarter of a pound of trea- 
 cle ; of which mixture, take a third part immediately as the cold fit 
 commences, washing it down with half a quartern of the best French 
 brandy. As the cold fit goes off, and the fever approaches, take a 
 third part, with the like quantity of brandy ; and, on the following 
 morning, fasting, swallow the remainder, and the same quantity of 
 brandy as before. This excellent electuary, which is said never to 
 Fail, perfectly cured an afflicted person, after being most grievously 
 tormented for the greater part of four years, having almost every 
 fit accompanied by delirium, during which period innumerable other 
 
6 
 
 THE NEW FAMILY 
 
 remedies had been tried in vain. The person from whom it was 
 obtained, declared that he had cured many hundred persons, and ne- 
 ver met with but a single instance where the three doses did not im- 
 mediately effect a cure, and even then a second three completely 
 prevailed. To children under nine years of age, only half the above 
 quantities must be given. 
 
 Bayley’s Patent Cakes for Liquid Blacking. 
 
 This blacking has been the scource of an ample fortune to the 
 patentee, the celebrated Mr. Bayley, of Cockspur-street, Charing- 
 cross, whose exclusive right has lately expired. It is made, accord- 
 ing to the specification in the patent office, with one part of the 
 gummous juice which issues from the shrub called goat’s thorn, du- 
 ring the months of June, July, and August ; four parts of river- 
 water ; two parts of neat’s-foot, or some other softening and lubri- 
 cating oil ; two parts of a deep blue colour, prepared from iron and 
 copper ; and four parts of brown sugar candy. The water is then 
 evaporated till the composition becomes of a proper consistence, 
 when it is formed into cakes of such a size as to produce, when 
 dissolved in hot water, a pint of liquid blacking. 
 
 An Incomparable Fumigation , or Fapour, for a Sore Throat. 
 
 Take a pint of vinegar, and an ounce of myrrh ; boil them well 
 together about half an hour, and then pour the liquid into a basin. 
 Place over the basin the large part of a funnel which fits it ; and, 
 the small end being taken into the mouth of the patient, the fume 
 will be inhaled, and descend to the throat. It must be used as 
 hot as it can possibly be borne ; and should be renewed every quar- 
 ter of an hour, till a cure is effected. This excellent remedy will 
 seldom or never fail, if resolutely persisted in, only for a day or 
 two, and sometimes a very few hours, in the most dangerous state 
 of either an inflammatory or putrid sore throat, or even a quinsy. 
 
 Dr. Fullar’s Fapour for a Quinsy. 
 
 Take powdered pepper, one ounce ; milk, a quart ; and boil them 
 to a pint and a half. Put the whole into a glass bottle with a small 
 neck, and let the vapour be received as hot as can be endured 
 with open mouth. “ This euporiston,” says that learned physican, 
 “ more powerfully than any gargle whatsoever, attenuates, melts 
 down, and draws forth, tough phlegm ; which, bv obstructing the 
 glands and spongy flesh, and hindering the free passage of blood 
 and humours through them, occasions the inflammation and tumour ; 
 and, therefore, it more effectually takes off this perilous distemper 
 than any of them.” This, it is to be remarked, is only recommend- 
 ed for a quinsy. It affords good professional authority, however, 
 for the preferable use of such vaporous inhalements over common 
 gargles and other medicines, in dangerous complaints of the throat, 
 lungs, &c. 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK. 
 
 7 
 
 Fine Red Ink. 
 
 Boil four ounces of best raspings of Brazil-wood, and one ounce 
 each of crystals of tartar and powdered alum in a quart of the 
 clearest river-water, till half the fluid be evaporated. While it is 
 yet sufficiently warm, dissolve in it an ounce each of double-refined 
 sugar, and the whitest gum arabic. This fine ink is said to preserve 
 its lively red hue much longer than any other known preparation for 
 the same purpose. The common red ink, which is certainly far 
 cheaper, and will do very well for most occasions, is made by 
 infusing four ounces of Brazil-wood raspings with two drachms of 
 powdered alum, in a pint each of vinegar and rain-water, for two or 
 three days, and afterward boiling them over a moderate fire till a 
 third part of the fluid has evaporated. It is then to stand two or 
 three days ; and, being filtered through blotting-paper, to be pre- 
 served in closely-corked bottles for use. 
 
 Method of Cleansing and Polishing Rusty Steel. 
 
 After well oiling the rusty parts of the steel, let it remain two 
 or three days in that state, then wipe it dry with clean rags, and po- 
 lish with emery or pumice-stone, on hard wood. Frequently, how- 
 ever, a little unslacked lime, finely powdered, will be sufficient, after 
 the oil is cleaned off. Where a very high degree of polish is re- 
 quisite, it will be fnost effectually obtained by using a paste com- 
 posed of finely levigated blood-stone and spirits of wine. Bright 
 bars, however, are admirably cleaned in a few minutes, by using 
 a small portion of fine corn emery, and afterward finishing with 
 flour of emery or rotten-stone ; all of which may be had at any 
 ironmonger’s. This last very simple method will, perhaps, render any 
 other superfluous. 
 
 A fine Balsamic Elixir for confirmed Coughs and Consumptions. 
 
 Take a pint of the finest old rum, two ounces of balsam of 
 Tolu, an ounce and a half of Strasburg turpentine, an ounce 
 of powdered extract of Catechu, formerly called Japan earth, 
 and half an ounce each of gum guaiacum and balsam of copavia. 
 Mix them well together in the bottle ; and keep it near the 
 fire, closely corked, for ten days, frequently well shaking it du- 
 ring thai time. Afterwards let it stand two days to settle, and pour 
 off the clear for use. Half a pint of rum may then be poured over 
 the dregs ; and, being treated for twelve days in the same manner 
 as the first, will produce more elixir, and equally good. The dose 
 may be from fifty to a hundred, or even two hundred drops, accord- 
 ing to the urgency of the case, taken twice or thrice a day in 
 a wine glass of water. 
 
 Admiral Gascoigne’s Tincture of Rhubarb. 
 
 Take half an ounce each of powdered rhubarb, myrrh, cochineal, 
 and hierapicra, and put them in a bottle with one quart of the best 
 double-distilled aniseed water. When it has stood four days, 
 it is fit for immediate use ; and may be taken, a small wine- 
 glass at a time, for any pains in the stomach or bowels. In the 
 
8 
 
 THE NEW FAMILY 
 
 valuable collection whence this is extracted, is the following me- 
 morandum — “ There is not a better receipt in the world !” 
 
 German Cure for a Consumption. 
 
 Take a pound of pure honey, and let it boil gently in a stewpan ; 
 then, having washed, scraped clean, and finely grated with a sharp 
 grater, two large sticks of fresh horse-radish, stir into the honey 
 a3 much as you possibly can. It must remain in a boiling state about 
 five minutes, but stirred so as not to burn ; after which, put it into 
 small earthen pots, or ajar, and keep it covered up for use. Two or 
 three table spoonsful a day, or more, according to the strength of 
 the patient, and some time persisted in, is said to perform wonders, 
 even where there is a confirmed phthisis pulmonalis, or consumption 
 of the lungs. It is also serviceable in all coughs where the lungs 
 are greatly affected. 
 
 Easy and effectual Cure for Wens. 
 
 Put a quantity of salt and water into a saucepan, and boil it four 
 or five minutes ; with which, while tolerably hot, bathe the entire 
 surface of the wen, however large ; and continue so to do, even 
 after it is cold. Every time, before applying it, stir up the salt de- 
 posited at the bottom of the basin, and incorporate it again with the 
 water. In this manner the wen must be rubbed well over, at least 
 ten or twelve times every twenty-four hours ; and, frequently in less 
 than a fortnight, a small discharge takes place, without any 
 pain, which a gentle pressure soon assists to empty the whole con- 
 tents. In particular instances, it is necessary to continue the appli- 
 cation several weeks, or even months : but it is said always finally 
 to prevail, where resolutely persisted in, and that without occasioning 
 pain or inconvenience of any kind, there being not the smallest pre- 
 vious notice of the discharge. A person who had, for many years, 
 been an object of attraction in the streets of London, from having 
 a most enormous wen hanging on his neck and breast, being sudden- 
 ly seen, with astonishment, completely divested of it, was asked 
 how he had lost it, without the appearance of any scar or other dis- 
 figurement; when he declared, that he had been happily relieved of 
 his incumbrance, in a very few months, by simply rubbing it with 
 the old rusty fat and brine of bacon. This undoubted fact may serve 
 as a hint, should the still simpler preparation of salt and water ever 
 seem likely to prove insufficiently powerful. 
 
 Genuine Lozenges for the Piles, as used in the West Indies, 
 and other warm climates. 
 
 Take four ounces of fine powdered loaf sugar, two ounces of flour 
 of sulphur, and a sufficient quantity of mucilage of gum tacamahaca 
 dissolved in red rose water to form the whole into a paste for lozen- 
 ges. Having made it up in lozenges of the desired form, dry them 
 before the fire, or in an oven after every thing has been drawn. Take, 
 of these lozenges, about the weight of a drachm daily. This is a 
 most valuable medicine for that disagreeable and dreadful complaint; 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK. 
 
 9 
 
 which prevails much, and is a peculiarly grievous and even danger- 
 ous disease in the West India Islands, as well as in most other hot 
 climates. It is, however, generally found completely efficacious, 
 even in those regions. 
 
 Easy Method of cleaning Paper Hangings. 
 
 Cut into eight half-quarters a quartern loaf two days old ; it must 
 neither be newer nor staler. With one of these pieces, after having 
 blown off all the dust from the paper to be cleaned by means of a 
 good pair of bellows, begin at the top of the room, holding the crust 
 in the hand, and wiping lightly downward with the crumb, about half 
 a yard at each stroke, till the upper part of the hangings is complete- 
 ly cleaned all round. Then go again round, with the like sweeping 
 stroke downward, always commencing each successive course a lit- 
 tle higher than the upper stroke had extended, till the bottom be 
 finished. This operation, if carefully performed, will frequently 
 make very old paper look almost equal to new. Great caution must 
 be used not by any means to rub the paper hard, nor to attempt clean- 
 ing it the cross or horizontal way. The dirty part of the bread, too, 
 must be each time cut away, and the pieces renewed as soon as at all 
 necessary. 
 
 Sir John Hill’s Specific for the Scurvy. 
 
 Sir John’s own description of this excellent remedy will convey 
 its virtues. “ There is in the hands of one person only a medicine 
 of very great efficacy in the cure of the scurvy, leprosy, and other 
 desperate cutaneous disorders. Its effect is certain ; but it is kept 
 at so exorbitant a price, that only persons of fortune can have the 
 advantage of it. 
 
 “ A gentleman of great worth and goodness applied some months 
 since to the person who possesses it, in favour of two daughters of a 
 country clergyman. He did not desire it should be given, but re- 
 quested it at any moderate price. He was refused. A bottle of the 
 medicine was afterward procured, and put into my hands to exa- 
 mine. It appeared to me, on many trials, to be an infusion of the root 
 of the common great water-dock, and nothing else. I have made an 
 infusion of that root, which perfectly agrees with it in taste, smell, 
 and colour, and, what is more important, in virtues. 
 
 “ This is no modern invention ; the plant was long since known 
 and celebrated : it is the famous Bntanuita antiquorum vera of au- 
 thors, concerning which such wonders are recorded in the cure of 
 scurvies ; but, like many other English plants, it has long been neg- 
 lected. 
 
 “ I beg you to make this public for the service of those whom the 
 common remedies have failed to cure, and whose fortunes do not 
 afford their going to the person hitherto possessed of the secret for 
 redress. The method of infusion and decoction both will answer 
 better than that by infusion alone, and what I have directed to several 
 wbo have found great benefit from it, is made thus . 
 
 u Weigh half a pound of the fresh root of great water-dock, cut 
 it into thin slices, put it in a stone jar, and pour upon it a gallon of 
 
10 
 
 THE NEW FAMILY 
 
 boiling water, cover it up, and let it stand twenty-four hours : then 
 put the whole into a saucepan, and boil it about eight minutes. After 
 this let it stand to be quite cold, then strain it off without squeezing. 
 Drink a half pint basin of this twice a-day, avoid high seasoned food, 
 and use moderate exercise. 
 
 “ The great good I have seen from this makes me desirous that 
 all may know of it who want it. 
 
 “ I am, Sir, your humble servant, 
 
 “John Hill.” 
 
 Russian Method of preserving Green Peas for Winter. 
 
 Put into a kettle of boiling hot water any quantity of fresh-shelled 
 green peas : and, after letting them just boil up, pour them into a 
 colander. When the liquor has drained away, empty them into a 
 large thick cloth, cover them over with another, make them quite dry, 
 set them once or twice in a cool oven, to harden a little ; after which 
 put the peas into paper bags, and hang them up in the kitchen for 
 use. To prepare them, when wanted, they are first well soaked 
 for an hour or more ; and then boiled in cold water, with a few sprigs 
 of mint, and a little butter. Green peas are sometimes kept in Eng- 
 land, by scalding and drying alone, without putting them in an oven ; 
 they are afterward bottled like gooseberries or damsons covered by 
 clarified suet, closed up with cork and resin, and either buried in the 
 earth or kept in a cool cellar ; being boiled, when wanted, till quite 
 tender, with mint, butter, and sugar. This last article, at least, is 
 certainly an improvement on the Russian method. A dish of green 
 peas, thus prepared, has sometimes agreeably surprised friends at a 
 Christmas dinner. 
 
 Admirable Wash for the Hair, said to Thicken its Growth 
 better than Bear's Grease. 
 
 Take two ounces each of rosemary, maidenhair, southernwood, 
 myrtle berries, and hazel bark ; and burn them to ashes on a clean 
 hearth, or in an oven : with these ashes make a strong ley, with 
 which wash the hair at the roots every day, and keep it cut short. 
 This lixivium, or wash, it is said, will destroy the worm at the root ; 
 and prove far more effectual than bear’s grease or pomatum, which 
 rather feed than destroy that unsuspected enemy to the hair. 
 Excellent Remedy for Swelled Legs and a Relaxed Stomach. 
 
 Take six ounces of the common bitter infusion, consisting of gen- 
 tian root and outer rind of Seville orange, with or without coriander 
 seeds ; one ounce of tincture of senna ; and a drachm of compound 
 spirits of lavender. Mix them together, and take four spoonsful 
 every other night on going to bed. To prevent swelled legs from 
 breaking, make a decoction of marshmallow leaves, rue, camomile, 
 and southernwood, boiled in a quart of ale or stale beer ; and foment 
 them with flannels wrung out of the liquor, as hot as can be borne 
 without scalding, three or four times a day. After bathing, anoint 
 them with a little ointment of marshmallows ; and should they even 
 be broke, only cover the holes with dry lint, while bathing or foment- 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK. 11 
 
 mg the legs, and afterwards dress them with the ointment, and take 
 a little cooling physic. 
 
 Fine Raspberry Vinegar. 
 
 This excellent article in domestic management is both grateful to 
 the palate, and a very effectual remedy for complaints in the chest. 
 It is made, at very little expense, in the following manner : Pour 
 three pints of the best white-wine vinegar over a po md and a half 
 of fine red raspberries, in a stone jar or china bowl, for neither gla- 
 zed earthenware nor any metal must be used : the next day, strain 
 the liquor over a like quantity of fresh raspberries ; and the day 
 following do the same. Then drain the liquid as much as possible 
 without pressing the fruit ; and pass it through a cotton bag previously 
 wetted with plain vinegar, merely for preventing waste, into a stone 
 jar, with a pound of loaf sugar in large lumps to every pint of the 
 vinegar. As soon as the sugar is melted, stir the liquor, and put the 
 jar into a saucepan of water, to simmer for some time ; skim it 
 carefully ; and, when cold, bottle it for use. A large spoonful, in a 
 small tumbler of water, with a very little sugar, makes a most plea- 
 sant and refreshing beverage, either for invalids or persons in health. 
 
 Genuine Turlington's Balsam. 
 
 This is a very good vulnerary balsam for common uses ; and may 
 be safely taken internally, where the genuine friar’s balsam is not at 
 hand. The receipt for making the true Turlington’s balsam, or 
 drops, is as follows : Take an ounce of the Peruvian balsam ; two 
 ounces of the best liquid storax ; three ounces of gum Benjamin, 
 impregnated with almonds ; and half an ounce each of the best aloes, 
 myrrh, frankincense, angelica roots, and the flowers of St. John’s 
 wort. Beat all these ingredients in a mortar, and put them into a 
 large glass bottle ; adding a pint and a quarter of the best spirits 
 of wine. Let the bottle stand by the kitchen fire, or in the chimney 
 corner, two days and nights ; then decant it off, in small bottles well 
 corked and sealed, to be kept ready for use. The same quantity 
 of spirits of wine poured on the ingredients, well shaken up, and pla- 
 ced near the fire, or in some other warm situation, about six or 
 eight days and nights, will serve for slight occasions, on being 
 bottled in a similar manner. 
 
 Cephalic Snuff. 
 
 Take half an ounce each of sage, rosemary, lilies of the valley, 
 and the tops of sweet marjorum, with a drachm each of asarabacca 
 root, lavender flowers, and nutmeg. Reduce the whole composition 
 to a fine powder ; and take it like common snuff, as often as may be 
 necessary for the relief of the head, &c. There are many more pow- 
 erful cephalic snuffs, for particular medicinal purposes, but few so 
 generally useful, agreeable, and innocent, to be used at pleasure. 
 
 Cheap and excellent Composition for preserving Weather- 
 
 Boarding, Paling , and all other Works liable to be injured 
 
 by the Weather. 
 
 Lime, it is well kown, however well burnt, will soon become 
 *Wcked by exposure in the open air, or even if confined in a situa- 
 
12 
 
 THE NEW FAMILY 
 
 tion not remarkably dry, so as to crumble of itself into powder. 
 This is called air-slacked lime, in contradistinction to that which is 
 slacked in the usual way by being mixed with water. For the purpose 
 of making the present useful composition to preserve all sorts of 
 wood work exposed to the vicissitudes of the weather, take three 
 parts of this air-slacked lime, two of wood ashes, and one of fine 
 sand ; pass them through a fine sieve, and add as much linseed oil 
 to the composition as will bring it to a proper consistence for working 
 with a painter’s brush. As particular care must be taken to mix it 
 perfectly, it should be ground on a stone slab with a proper muller, 
 in the same manner as painters grind their white lead, &c. but, 
 where these conveniences are not at hand, the ingredients may be 
 mixed in a large pan, and well beaten up with a wooden spatula. 
 Two coats of this composition being necessary, the first may be 
 rather thin ; but the second should be as thick as it can conveniently 
 be worked. This most excellent composition for preserving wood 
 when exposed to the injuries of the weather, is highly preferable to 
 the customary method of laying on tar and ochre. It is, indeed, every 
 way better calculated for the purpose, being totally impenetrable 
 by water ; and, so far from being liable to injury by the action of the 
 weather or heat of the sun, that the latter, though such a powerful 
 enemy to tar and ochred palings, &c. even hardens, and conse- 
 quently increases the durability of, the present proposed composition, 
 which forms an article of public utility not only much cheaper than 
 paint, but prodigiously more lasting. 
 
 Art of making Brill au's incomparable Liquid, for changing 
 the Colour of the Hair, fyc. 
 
 This is said to be the best liquid in the world for making the hair 
 curl, as well as for changing that which is disagreeably sandy to a 
 very pleasing colour. The method of preparing it is as follows : 
 Take two ounces of scrapings of lead, an ounce of hartshorn shav- 
 ings, a quarter of an ounce of litharge of gold, and a drachm of 
 camphor ; put them into a pint of soft water, and let them boil for 
 half an hour. When cold and fine, pour the liquid off, and add to it 
 a drachm each of the sugar of lead and rosemary flowers. Boil these 
 up together ; pour off the liquid ; and, when fine, it is fit for im- 
 mediate use. 
 
 Dutch Method of extracting beautiful Colours from Floivers , 
 
 Leaves, Boots, &,-c. 
 
 Take the flowers, leaves, or roots, whatever quantity wished, and 
 bruise them nearly to a pulp ; then, putting it into a glazed earthen 
 vessel, pour filtered water sufficient to cover it, adding a table spoon- 
 ful of a strong solution of pure pot-ash to every pint of water. After 
 boiling, in a proper ves-el, the whole over a moderate fire till the li- 
 quor has obviously imbibed as much of the colour as can possible 
 be obtained from the pulp, decant the fluid part through a cloth or 
 blotting paper, and gradually drop into it a solution of alum, which 
 precipitates the colouring matter to the bottom. Having secured the 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK. 
 
 13 
 
 powder, continue to wash it in several fresh waters, and, at length, 
 filtering it again through blotting-paper, dry the remaining powder ; 
 from which prepare the finest pigments, for water colours, by tritu- 
 ration on marble, with clarified gum-water, and then form them into 
 cakes, cones, &c. for sale. A fine violet colour is in this manner 
 prepared by the Dutch from that flower ; the most delicately rosa- 
 ceous red, from the small French rose and other beautiful red roses ; 
 and a most brilliant azure, from the blossoms of the corn blue-bottle. 
 
 Excellent Remedy for the Dropsy. 
 
 Take sixteen large nutmegs, eleven spoonsful of broom ashes 
 dried and burnt in an oven, an ounce and a half of bruised mustard- 
 seed, and a handful of scraped horse-radish ; put the whole into a 
 gallon of strong mountain wine, and let it stand three or four days. 
 A gill, or half a pint, according to the urgency of the disease and 
 strength of the patient, is to be drank every morning fasting, taking 
 nothing else for an hour or two after. 
 
 Another powerful Remedy for the Dropsy. 
 
 Take a sufficient quantity of pelitory of the wall, put it in pump 
 water, and let it simmer over the fire till reduced to half its quantity, 
 then add honey to make it into a good syrup, of which take two-thirds 
 to one-third of a glass of Geneva, two or three times in a day till re- 
 lieved. This actually cured the Editor’s mother, after her legs had 
 burst and discharged water several times ; and the cure was so ef- 
 fectual, that she never had that sad disorder afterwards. 
 
 Of the fining of Malt Liquors. 
 
 It is most desirable to have beer fine of itself, which it seldom 
 fails to do in due time, if rightly brewed and worked ; but as disap- 
 pointments sometimes happen, it will be necessary to know what to 
 do in such cases. 
 
 Ivory shavings boiled in the wort, or hartshorn shavings put into 
 the cask just before it is bunged down, will do much towards fining 
 and keeping the liquor from growing stale. 
 
 Isinglass is the most common thing made use of in fining all sorts 
 of liquors ; first beat it well with a hammer or mallet, and lay it in a 
 pail, and then draw off about two gallons of the liquor, to be fined 
 upon it, and let it soak two or three days ; and when it is soft enough 
 to mix with the liquor, take a whisk, and stir it about till it is all of 
 a ferment, and white froth ; and frequently add the whites and shells 
 of about a dozen eggs, which beat in with it, and put all together into 
 the cask : then with a clean mopstick, or some such thing, stir the 
 whole together ; and then lay a cloth or piece of paper over the bung 
 hole, till the ferment is over, and then bung it up close : in a few 
 days it will fall fine. 
 
 But if it is wanted to fine only a small quantity, take half an ounce 
 of unslarked lime, and put it into a pint of water, and stir it well to- 
 o-ether, and let it stand for two or three hours, or till the lime settle 
 to the bottom ; then pour the water off clear, and throw away the sedi- 
 ment ; then take half an ounce of insinglass cut small, and boil it in 
 
14 
 
 THE NEW FAMILY 
 
 the lime water till it dissolves ; then let it cool, and pour it into the 
 vessel, &c. 
 
 To make Elderberry Beer , or Ebulum. 
 
 Take a hogshead of the first and strong wort, and boil in the same 
 one bushel of picked elderberries, full ripe ; strain off, and when cold, 
 work the liquor in the. hogshead, and not in any open tun or tub ; 
 and, after it has lain in the cask about a year, bottle it ; and it will be 
 a most rich drink, which they call Ebulum ; and has often been pre- 
 ferred to port wine, for its pleasant taste and healthful quality. 
 
 JNl . B. There is no occasion for the use of sugar in this operation ; 
 because the wort has strength and sweetness enough in itself to an- 
 swer that end ; but there should be an infusion of hops added to the 
 liquor, by way of preservation and relish. 
 
 Some likewise hang a small bag of bruised spices in the vessel. 
 White ebulum may be made with pale malt and white elderberries. 
 
 Easy method of Drying and Preserving Currants in Bunches. 
 
 Beat well up the whites of eggs, or a little gum arabic dissolved 
 in water ; and, after dipping in the bunches, and letting them get a 
 little dry, roll them in finely powdered loaf sugar. Lay them on a 
 sieve in a stove to dry ; and keep turning them, and adding sugar 
 till they become perfectly dried. Not only red, white, and black 
 currants, but even grapes in bunches, may be thus dried and pre- 
 served. They should be carefully kept dry, in boxes neatly lined with 
 paper. 
 
 Dr. Stoughton’s celebrated Stomachic Elixir . 
 
 Pare off the thin yellow rinds of six large Seville oranges, and 
 put them in a quart bottle, with an ounce of gentian root scraped 
 and sliced, and half a drachm of cochineal. Pour over these ingre- 
 dients a pint of the best brandy ; shake the bottle well, several times, 
 during that and the following day ; let it stand two days more to set- 
 tle, and clear it off into bottles for use. Take one or two tea-spoons- 
 ful morning and afternoon in a glass of wine, or even in a cup of 
 tea. This is an elegant but simple preparation, little differing from 
 the compound tincture of gentian either of the London or Edinburgh 
 Dispensatories ; the former adding half an ounce of canella alba, 
 (white cinnamon,) and the latter only substituting for the cochineal 
 of Stoughton, half an ounce of husked and bruised seeds of the 
 lesser cardamom. In deciding on their respective merits, it should 
 seem, that Stoughton’s elixir has the advantage in simplicity, and, 
 perhaps, altogether as a general and elegant stomachic. Indeed, 
 for some particular intentions, both the London and Edinburgh com- 
 positions may have their respective claims to preference : in a 
 cold stomach, the cardamom might be useful ; and, in a laxative ha- 
 bit, the canella alba. As a family medicine, however, to be at all 
 times safely resorted to, there is no need to hesitate recommending 
 Dr. Stoughton’s elixir. 
 
 Cure for a Pimpled Face. 
 
 Take an ounce each of liver of sulphur, roche-alum, and common 
 salt ; and two drachms each of sugar-candy and spermaceti. Pound 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK. 
 
 15 
 
 and sift these articles ; then put the whole into a quart bottle, and 
 add half a pint of brandy, three ounces of white lily water, and the 
 same quantity of pure spring water. Shake it well together, and 
 keep it for use. With this liquid, the face is to be freely and frequently 
 bathed ; remembering always first to shake the bottle, and, on going 
 to bed, lay all over the face linen which has been dipped in it. In 
 ten or twelve days at farthest, it is said a perfect cure will be effected 
 of this very unpleasant complaint, as nothing in this composition can 
 possibly prove prejudicial. 
 
 Curious method of separating Gold or Silver from Lace , with- 
 out burning it. 
 
 Cut in pieces the gold or silver lace intended to be divested of 
 any thing but the pure metal ; tie it up tightly in linen, and boil it in 
 soap ley, till the size appear considerably diminished : then take the 
 cloth out of the liquid ; and, after repeatedly rinsing it, in cold water, 
 beat it well with a mallet, to extract all the alkaline particles. On 
 opening the linen, to the great astonishment of those who have never 
 before witnessed the process, the metallic part will be found pure and 
 undiminished, in all its natural brightness, without a single thread. 
 
 Permanent Bed Ink for marking Linen. 
 
 This useful preparation, which was contrived by the late learned 
 and ingenious Dr. Smellie of Edinburgh, who was originally a printer 
 in that city, may be used either with types, a hair pencil, or even 
 with a pen : take half an ounce of vermilion, and a drachm of salt 
 of steel ; let them be finely levigated with linseed oil, to the thick- 
 ness or limpidity required for the occasion. This has not only a 
 very good appearance ; but will, it is said, be found perfectly to re- 
 sist the effects of acids, as well as of all alkaline leys. It may be 
 made of other colours, by substituting the proper articles instead of 
 vermilion. 
 
 Portable Balls for taking out Spots from Clothes. 
 
 Spots of grease, &c. are in general easily removed from woollen 
 cloth of all descriptions by means of portable balls prepared in the 
 following manner : Take fuller’s earth, dried so as to crumble into 
 powder, and moisten it well with lemon juice ; then add a small 
 quantity of pure pulverised pearl-ashes, and work up the whole into 
 a thick paste. Roll this paste into small balls, let them completely 
 dry in the heat of the sun, and they are then fit for immediate use. 
 The manner of using them is, by moistening w ith water the spots on 
 the cloth, rubbing the ball over them, and leaving it to dry in the sun ; 
 when, on washing the spots with common water, and often with 
 brushing alone, the spots instantly disappear. 
 
 Art of preparing a newly-discovered Permanent Green Pigment, 
 1 both for Oil and Water Colours. 
 
 A green colour, at once beautiful and durable, discovered by the 
 ingenious M. Kinnman, member of the Swedish Academy. The pro- 
 cess by whir** it is product ‘ h us dcscri!^ • Dissolve, in aqua 
 
16 
 
 THI. NEH K \ V, I IjY 
 
 fortis, a small quantity of zinc ; and, in aqua-regia, some strongly 
 calcined cobalt, : each solution to be made in a different vessel, and 
 to remain till the respective liquids be completely saturated. When 
 they are both ready, mix one part of the former with two parts of 
 the latter; and, having prepared a hot and clarified solution of pot- 
 ash, pour in a quantity exactly equal to the whole of both the other 
 solutions, for the purpose of precipitating the mixture. After it has 
 subsided, the fluid part should be decanted, and the sediment evapo- 
 rated to dryness over the fire, till it assumes a green colour. It is 
 necessary, however, that it should be repeatedly washed with filtered 
 water, before it can be used ; but, this being effected, it becomes fit 
 for both oil and water colours, as it is sufficiently fixed to withstand 
 all the effects of the air and the sun ; which the inventor fully ascer- 
 tained, by an experience of more than ten years. By means of this 
 preparation, also the ingenious inventor adds, that painters may rea- 
 dily combine their yellow and ultramarine, so as to form a most 
 beautiful and permanent green. 
 
 Stewed Oysters in French Rolls. 
 
 Take any quantity of oysters, and wash them in their own liquor. 
 Then, straining it, put it in again with them, and add a little salt, 
 ground pepper, beaten mace, and grated nutmeg. Let them stew 
 a little together, and thicken them up with a great deal of butter. 
 In the mean time, cut the tops off' a few French rolls, and take out 
 sufficient crumb to admit some of the oysters, which must be filled 
 in boiling hot, and set over a stove, or chafing-dish of coals, till they 
 are quite hot through ; filling them up with more liquor, or some hot 
 gravy, as the former soaks in. Y\ hen they are sufficiently moistened, 
 serve them up in the manner of puddings. 
 
 Ur. Anderson’s admirable Improvement on the common Mode 
 
 of salting Butter. 
 
 This ingenious gentleman, in his celebrated Recreations, first 
 published the following directions for an improved mode of preserv- 
 ing salt butter ; which he had experienced as not only more effec- 
 tually to preserve it from any taint of rancidity than the general old 
 method of using common salt only, but also to make it look better, 
 and taste sweeter, richer, and more marrowy, than if it had been 
 cured with common salt alone. Take of the best common salt, two 
 parts ; of saltpetre, one part ; and of sugar, one part ; beating them 
 up together, so that they may be completely blended. To every pound 
 of the butter add an ounce of this composition, mix it well in the 
 mass, and close it up for use. Butter thus prepared will keep good 
 for three years, and cannot be distinguished from what has been re- 
 cently salted. It may be necessary to remark, indeed, that butter cu- 
 red in the above excellent manner, does not taste well till it has stood 
 at least two or three weeks. Dr. Anderson is of opinion that such 
 butter would keep during the longest voyages, if it could be so stow- 
 ed as not to melt by heat of climate, and thus occasion the salts to 
 soparate. 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK.. 
 
 17 
 
 Method of expeditiously Fattening Chickens. 
 
 Among the many silly prejudices which exist in England against 
 the more general use of rice, is that of remarking its total unfitness 
 for feeding fowls. This may be true enough, if it be given them 
 in so hard a state as to pass without dissolution ; but, perhaps, there 
 is scarcely any thing which will sooner fatten the most delicate 
 chickens than this very article, when it is properly prepared : Take, 
 for that purpose, a quantity of rice, and grind or pound it into a fine 
 flour ; mix sufficient for present use with milk and a little coarse 
 sugar ; stir the whole well over the fire, till it makes a thick paste ; 
 and feed the chickens, in the day-time only, by putting as much of 
 it as they can eat, but no more, into the troughs, belonging to their 
 coops. It must be eaten while warm ; and, if they have also beer 
 to drink, they will soon grow very fat. A mixture of oatmeal and 
 treacle, combined till it crumbles, is said to form a food for chickens, 
 of which they are so fond, and with which they thrive so rapidly, 
 that at the end of two months they become as large as the generality 
 of full-grown fowls fed in the common way. 
 
 Lord Orford’s curious method of Feeding Carp in Ponds. 
 
 Make a gallon of barley meal, three pounds of chalk, and a suf- 
 ficient quantity of fine clay, into a very stiff paste ; put it into a net, 
 and place it so as to hang about a foot from the bottom of the water. 
 When the carp have sucked away all but the clay, supply them with 
 more made up in the same manner ; and, in three weeks or a month, 
 they will be found exceedingly fat. 
 
 Dr. Fuller's Chemical Snuff for the Head-Ache , Palsy , and 
 
 Droivsy Distempers. 
 
 Medicinal snuffs, or errhines, are chiefly to be used in the morn- 
 ing ; but, if needful, at any other time also. “ They draw,” Dr. 
 Fuller observes, “ out of the head and noste, abundance of water, 
 mucus, and viscid phlegm, and are pertinently prescribed against 
 such illnesses of the head as are caused by tough clammy matter, 
 and have been of long continuance and contumacious ; such as 
 gravative head-ache, palsy, and drowsy distempers.” He particu- 
 larly recommends, for these purposes, a snuff made in the follow- 
 ing manner : Take half a scruple of turbith mineral, half a drachm 
 of powdered liquorice, a scruple of nutmeg, and two drops of oil of 
 rosemary ; make them all into a fine powder, and snuff up into the 
 nose a very small quantity. This is so wonderfully powerful, that 
 it brings off thin lympha as if it raised a salivation through the nose, 
 so plentifully and streamingly, that no person could have imagined 
 who had never seen its effects. He advises, therefore, that it should 
 not be often repeated, without snuffing up after it a little warm milk 
 or oil, to prevent any soreness by fretting the membrane of the 
 nostrils. 
 
 Speedy Remedy for a Bruised Eye. 
 
 Boil a handful of hyssop leaves in a little water, till they are 
 quite tender ; th«tt o»t them up in linen, apply it hot to the eye, tie 
 
18 
 
 THE NEW FAMILY 
 
 it on tightly at bed-time, and the eye will next day be well. This 
 receipt is taken from a large and valuable collection that formerly 
 belonged to the family of the Karl of Shaftesbury ; and it is therein 
 asserted, that “ a man, who had his thigh terribly bruised by the kick 
 of a horse, was cured in a few hours, only by a poultice of the leaves of 
 hyssop, cut or minced very small, and beaten up with unsaited butter. 
 Culpepper in his herbal asserts the same respecting the virtues of 
 hyssop. 
 
 Stomach Plaster for a Cough. 
 
 Take bees’ wax, Burgundy pitch, and rosin, each an ounce ; melt 
 them together in a clean pipkin, and then stir in three quarters of an 
 ounce of common turpentine, and half an ounce of oil of mace. 
 Spread it on a piece of sheep’s leather, grate some nutmeg over the 
 whole plaster, and apply it quite warm to the region of the stomach. 
 
 Oil of Brown Paper , for Burns. 
 
 Take a piece of the thickest coarse brown paper, and dip it in the 
 best salad oil ; then set the paper on the fire, and carefully preserve 
 all the oil that drops for use. This is said to be an admirable remedy 
 for all sorts of burns. Oil of writing paper, collected in a similar man- 
 ner, is often recommended for the tooth-ache. 
 
 Liquid for removing Spots of Grease, Pitch , or Oil, from 
 
 Woollen Cloth. 
 
 In a pint of spring water dissolve an ounce of pure pearl-ash ; 
 adding, to the solution, a lemon cut in small slices. This being pro- 
 perly mixed, and kept in a warm state for two days, the whole must 
 be strained, and the clear liquid kept in a bottle for use. A little of 
 this liquid being poured on the stained part, is said instantaneously to 
 remove all spots of grease, pitch, or oil; and the moment they disap- 
 pear, the cloth is to be washed in clear water. 
 
 Method of taking out Ink Spots from Woollen , Linen, and 
 
 Silk. 
 
 To take spots of ink out of woollen, they must first be rubbed 
 with a composition, consisting of the white of an egg, and a few 
 drops of oil of vitriol, properly incorporated : next, immediately 
 washed with pure water ; and, lastly, have the parts smoothed, in the 
 direction of the nap, with a piece of flannel or white woollen cloth. 
 From linen, ink spots maybe removed, by immediately dropping 
 plentifully on them, while wet with the ink, the tallow from a lighted 
 candle, and letting it remain on a few days before washing the linen : 
 this is also said to take the stains of red-port out of linen. Ink spots 
 on silk require to be well rubbed with the ashes of wormwood and 
 strong distilled vinegar, and to be afterwards cleansed with soap- 
 water. When ink is once dried on linen, the spot is to be taken out 
 by rubbing it well with a piece of lemon, and then using a hot iro» 
 till the ink totally disappears. If a lemon be ~ In half, the linen 
 where spotted pressed down over it li 11 the jui. r |*enctratcs through, 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK. 19 
 
 and the hot iron then placed on the linen, the spot will immediately 
 give way, and soon entirely vanish. 
 
 Ink Stains taken out of Mahogany. 
 
 Put a few drops of spirit of sea-salt, or oil of vitriol, in a tea- 
 spoonful of water, and touch the stain or spot with a feather ; ana, 
 on the ink disappearing, rub it over with a rag wetted in cold water, 
 or there will be a white mark not easily effaced. 
 
 Red Mixture for giving a fine Colour to Mahogany Furniture. 
 
 Stains of ink being first removed by the method above described, 
 wash the tables or other mahogany furniture with vinegar, and then 
 rub them all over with a red mixture made in the following manner : 
 Put into a pint of cold-drawn linseed oil four pennyworth of alkanet 
 root, and two pennyworth of rose-pink ; stir them well together in 
 any earthen vessel, and let them remain all night, when the mixture, 
 being again well stirred, will be immediately fit for use. When it 
 has been left an hour on the furniture, it may be rubbed off till bright 
 with linen cloths ; and will soon have a beautiful colour, as well as 
 a glossy appearance. 
 
 Mr. Jayne's Patent Method of preserving Eggs. 
 
 Various have been the expedients by which good housewives 
 have endeavoured to preserve eggs. They have, in turns, been kept 
 in salt, in flour, and in bran ; they have been scalded in hot water, 
 and deposited at the bottom of a cold running stream ; they have 
 been steeped in vinegar, and they have been bathed with oil. None 
 of these expedients, however, seem to be universally approved, 
 though each has had its respective advocates, and been warmly re- 
 commended to attention. In the year 1791, a patent was obtained 
 by Mr. William Jayne, for his newly-invented composition calculated 
 to preserve eggs. The specification of Mr. Jayne, whose patent 
 expired of course in the year 1805, directs that, for preparing his 
 composition, a Winchester bushel of quick or unslacked lime, two 
 pounds of common salt, and half a pound of cream of tartar, should 
 be incorporated with such a quantity of common water as may re- 
 duce the mixture to a state of consistence in which an egg will float 
 with its top above the surface. In this liquid the eggs are to be 
 constantly kept for use ; and the patentee asserts, that they will thus 
 certainly be preserved perfectly sound for at least two years. 
 
 Chinese Mode of rendering all Sorts of Cloth , and even Mus- 
 lin, W ater-Proof. 
 
 By the following very simple process for making cloth water-proof, it 
 is asserted that the Chinese render not only all the strongest cloths but 
 even the most open muslins, impenetrable to the heaviest showers 
 of rain ; nor yet, as it is said, will this composition fill up the in- 
 terstices of the finest lawn, or in the slightest degree injure the 
 most brilliant colours. The composition to which these valuable 
 qualities are imputed, is merely a solution of half an ounce of white 
 
20 
 
 THE NEW FAMILY 
 
 wax in a pint of spirits of turpentine- In a sufficient quantity of the 
 mixture, made with these materials, immerse the articles intended 
 to be rendered water-proof, and then hang them in the open air till 
 they become perfectly dry. This is all the process necessary for 
 accomplishing so desirable a purpose ; against which, however, 
 may be objected, perhaps, the expense, and unpleasant scent, of 
 the turpentine spirits : the latter objection may be remedied by 
 using equal parts of spirits of wine and oil of wormwood, a mixture 
 of which is said to dissipate the smell of turpentine ; but the former, 
 it is not to be denied, must necessarily be, at the same time, in 
 some degree, augmented. It has lately been attempted, in England, 
 to render the use of water-proof cloth, general. 
 
 beautiful newly-discovered Golden Yellow Dye , for Silks, 
 
 Cotton , fyc. 
 
 This fine, lively, and durable yellow dye, has recently been dis- 
 covered by M. Lasteyrie, who thus describes the process by which 
 it is obtained from the shaggy spunk, or boletus hirsutus of Linnaeus ; 
 a species of mushroom, or fungus, growing chiefly on apple or wal- 
 nut trees. This vegetable substance is replete with colouring mat- 
 ter, which must be expressed by pounding in a mortar ; after which 
 the liquid thus acquired is to be boiled about a quarter of an hour. 
 Six pints of water may be well tinged for dying, by a single ounce 
 of the expressed fluid. This being strained, the silk, cotton, &c. 
 intended to be dyed, must be immersed and boiled in it for about 
 fifteen or twenty minutes ; when fine silk, in particular, if it be after- 
 wards passed through s dt soap water, will appear of a bright golden 
 yellow hue, equal in lustre to that of the silk hitherto imported from 
 China, at a great expense, for imitating gold embroidery. In short, 
 every sort of stuff retains a fine yellow colour ; but it is, of course, 
 less bright on linen and cotton. Nor is the use of this vegetable 
 substance confined to dying ; since it has been ascertained that 
 the yellow extract which it yields is applicable to the purposes of 
 painting, both in oil arid in water colours. 
 
 Curious Method of Breeding an innumerable Quantity of the 
 beautiful Gold and Silver Fish. 
 
 The curious process by which this is to be easily effected, may 
 be in general applied, on a larger scale, to the breeding, in equal 
 profusion, most of our esculent fresh-water fish. It is, simply, as 
 follows : Get a large deep cistern or vat, of any dimensions, but one 
 of about four feet diameter, and nearly the same height or depth, 
 will very well answer the purpose; then take a quantity of birch, or 
 small faggot wood, which has been previously soaked some time in 
 a stream, spring, or pond, so as to have lost all power of discolour- 
 ing or giving any farther taste to fresh water, and lay this wood all 
 along the bottom, to the thickness of about a foot, in some parts at 
 least, having large stones on the top to keep it from rising or motion. 
 Being thus certain that neither the vat nor the birch can spoil the 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK. 
 
 21 
 
 water, nearly fill it with the best soft water from a river or pond, 
 such as there can be no doubt that fish will be able to live in. The 
 vat, it is to be observed, must be placed in the open air, but not in a too 
 cold or exposed situation ; and the breeding is to commence in the 
 spring, when the fish are full, and just ready to spawn. Choose, as 
 breeders, four hard-roed or females, and only one soft-roed milcher 
 or male. Put the five, with all possible care not to hurt them, into 
 the vat ; feeding them occasionally, by throwing in a few crumbs of 
 bread, or some other trifling food, but in no other way disturbing them. 
 When they appear quite thin, or shotten as it is termed, they must be 
 quietly taken out with a small net, so as by no means to disturb the 
 spawn, and entirely kept away ; as they would, if allowed to remain, 
 (such is the nature of these and most other fish,) soon devour the 
 greatest part of the spawn and small fry, suffering little or none ever 
 to reach maturity. The vat must not be disturbed during the whole 
 summer ; only, as the water decreases, a little fresh must from time 
 to time be as gently as possible poured in, to supply the deficiency. 
 In the course of the summer, the vivified roes will be hatched, and 
 the water perceived swarming with a minute fry ; fully sufficient to 
 stock a large piece of water, if not. devoured by other fish, or the 
 several birds which make fish their prey. By this method, myriads 
 of those beautiful fish may be easily bred ; and, consequently, be- 
 come very common. At present, it is true, though originally intro- 
 duced from the East Indies, of which, as well as of China, the gold 
 fish, or cyprinus auratus of Linnaeus, is a native, it is still chiefly 
 kept in glass globular vessels for ornament. It has, however, within 
 these few vears, been sufficiently ascertained, that these fishes 
 thrive and propagate in ponds, or other reservoirs of water ; where 
 trey are said to acquire a much larger growth, and come to greater 
 perfection, than in the oriental countries. 
 
 Surup of Red Cabbage , as prepared in France. 
 
 Cut and wash a large red cabbage, put it into a pot covered with 
 water, and let it simmer three or four hours over a moderate fire, till 
 there only remains about a pint of liquor; then strain it through a 
 sieve, pressing the cabbage forcibly to get all the juice ; let the liquor 
 stand some hours to settle, and pour off the clear. Put a pound of 
 Narbonne honey into a saucepan, over a stove, with a glass of water ; 
 and keep skimming it all the time it is boiling, till it be completely 
 clarified. Then put in the cabbage juice, and make the whole boil 
 to the consistence of a syrup ; which is always to be known, by ta- 
 king a little of it on one finger, and finding that, on its being rubbed 
 against the next, it forms a thread which does not instantly break. 
 This syrup is regarded in France as a most excellent fortifier of the 
 breast. It is undoubtedly a good pectoral syrup, very pleasant, not 
 at all expensive, and easily made. A decoction of red cabbage, 
 even in England, by some eminent physicians, has been frequently 
 recommended for softening acrimonious humours in disorders of the 
 breast, and also in hoarseness. 
 
22 
 
 THE NEW FAMILY 
 
 Boluses for the Rheumatism and Contractions of the Joints 
 
 Bruise four cloves of garlic with two drachms of gum ammoniar 
 and make them into six boluses with spring water. Take one every 
 morning and evening, drinking plentifully of sassafras tea, at least 
 twice a day, while using this medicine. '1 his is said to be a most 
 effectual remedy for the rheumatism, and equally good in contractions 
 of the joints. 
 
 Pill for an Aching Hollow Tooth. 
 
 Take half a grain each of opium and yellow sub-sulphate of quick- 
 silver, formerly called turpeth mineral ; make them into a pill, and 
 place it in the hollow of the tooth some hours before bed-time, with 
 a small piece of wax over the top, when it is said never to fail effect- 
 ing a complete cure. It was originally communicated, with many 
 other medical receipts, by a learned physician at York. 
 
 Tea for the Gout. 
 
 Take the leaves of carduus benedictus, or the holy thistle, with a 
 sufficient proportion of angelica leaves to make it palatable, but not 
 much of either at a time, and drink half a pint of this infusion made 
 like common tea, rather weak, constantly every morning for twelve 
 months. This is said to have alone relieved several persons who were 
 almost crippled with the gout. r l he leaves of the blessed thistle, in 
 strong decoction, are generally agreed to be beneficial where there 
 is a loss of appetite, or the stomach has been impaired by irregularU 
 ties ; and, whether an infusion be made in cold or warm water, it 
 occasions, if drank freely, a copious perspiration, and greatly pro-p 
 motes the secretions. The dried leaf, which may be used for making 
 the tea recommended, loses much of that forbidding flavour always 
 possessed by the fresh plant ; and which occasions it to be some-? 
 times employed in strong decoctions, either as an emetic, or as the 
 auxiliary of an emetic. 
 
 Infallible Powder for Shortness of Breath. 
 
 This excellent remedy for shortness of breath is particularly ref- 
 commended to young ladies. The powder is thus directed to be 
 made : Take an ounce each of carraway seeds and anniseeds, half 
 an ounce of liquorice, a large nutmeg, an ounce of prepared steel 
 and two ounces of double-refined sugar ; reduce the whole into l 
 very fine powder, and take as much as will lie on a shilling every 
 morning fasting, and the same quantity at five in the afternoon. It 
 will be requisite to use exercise while taking this medicine, which 
 generally very soon effects a cure. Where any invincible prejudice 
 against the use of steel exists in the mind, the medicine may be 
 tried without it ; it will even then frequently afford relief. 
 
 Excellent Wash for Numbed or Trembling Hands- 
 
 These disagreeable complaints are said to be soon remedied by 
 the very simple expedient of frequently washing the hands so affect- 
 ed in a strong decoction of wormwood and mustard seed; to be 
 Btrained. and used when cold. 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK. 
 
 23 
 
 Mustard Whey, for a Palsy and JVervous Disorders. 
 
 Turn half a pint of boiling milk, by putting in a table-spoonful of 
 made mustard. Strain the whey from the curd, through a. sieve, and 
 drink it in bed. This will give a generous and glowing warmth, the 
 whey thus conveying the mustard into the constitution. Dr. Stephen 
 Hales says, that he knew a woman, who had a great degree of numb- 
 ness all over her, remarkably relieved with two doses only, and men- 
 tions several instances where it has done good in nervous cases, and 
 in palsy, greatly abating the malady and prolonging life. 
 
 Ingenious French Vegetative Liquid for making Bulbous Hoots 
 flower beautifully in ornamental Glasses, without Earth , du- 
 ring the ff inter Season. 
 
 Dissolve, gradually, in a glazed earthen or glass vessel, three 
 ounces of saltpetre, one ounce of common salt, and half an ounce 
 of salt of tartar, with a pint of rain water. When the solution is 
 completed, add half an ounce of loaf sugar; filter the whole through 
 a bag or blotting paper, and keep it bottled for use. Into each flower- 
 glass, filled with rain or river water, are to be put eight or ten drops 
 of this liquid. The glasses must be kept constantly full, and the 
 water renewed every tenth or twelfth day at farthest ; to which must 
 always be added the requisite number of drops of the vegetative li- 
 quor. To ensure complete success, however, the glasses ought to 
 stand on a mantle or chimney-piece where a fire is regularly kept in 
 cold weather. The fibres of the roots must of course always im- 
 bibe the liquid ; and, with proper management, a fine succession of 
 flowers may be kept up during the most rigorous seasons ; such as 
 crocuses of different colours, tulips, hyacinths, snow-drops, & c. 
 
 Art of Extracting the finest Carmine Powder from Clippings 
 
 of Scarlet Cloth. 
 
 That incomparable crimson colour, called carmine, which so 
 beautifully participates in the most delicate tints of scarlet and of 
 purple, is so very expensive, that miniature painters are often induced 
 to substitute for carmine a composition of lake ; by the following pro- 
 cess, however, it is credibly asserted, that a better carmine may with 
 certainty be manufactured than much of what is imported from F ranee. 
 Take five or six gallons of the purest water, and dissolve in it a 
 sufficient quantity of pot-ash to make a strong ley. After having 
 filtered the solution, put it in a brass pot, and boil in it a pound of 
 the clean shreds or clippings of the finest scarlet broad cloth dyed in 
 grain till they have entirely lost their colour ; then squeeze the shreds, 
 and pass all the ley through a flannel bag. Dissolve two pounds of 
 alum in a proper quantity of water, and add this solution to the ley ; 
 stir them well together, and the whole will become rather thick. It 
 is then to be repassed through the flannel bag, and the liquor will run 
 out clear ; but, if it be at all tinged, it is again to be boiled, with the 
 addition of a small quantity of dissolved alum, and passed through 
 
24 
 
 THE NEW FA JULY 
 
 the bag a third time, when all the carmine will be left behind F resh 
 water is then to be poured repeatedly into the bag, till all the alum 
 is washed away : after which the colour must be dried, so as to 
 prevent any dust from settling on it; and, being previously reduced 
 to an impalpable powder, on glass or marble, it will be immediately 
 fit for use. 
 
 Substitute for Ver digrease, in producing a fine Black Dye 
 without Injury to Cloth , fyc. 
 
 As verdigrease, though generally combined with logwood for 
 dying black, is extremely apt to corrode the texture of the cloth, &c. 
 the Society for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures, and 
 Commerce, in the Adelphi. rewarded Mr. Cleg for his discovery of a 
 substitute in dying that colour. For this purpose, equal parts of 
 pot-ash, or any other strong alkaline salt, and vitriol of copper, are 
 to be separately dissolved, and the two solutions gradually mixed. 
 If the vitriol be sufficiently saturated, the water on the surface will 
 become transparent on adding a few drops of the alkaline solution ; 
 but, if not, it will produce a blue colour, so that no pot-ash should 
 be added till a complete saturation be effected. These proportions 
 of vitriol and alkaline salt will be equivalent to a similar quantity of 
 verdigrease ; and, on being combined with decoctions of logwood, 
 in the same manner as verdigrease, will impart a fine black dve, 
 which is by no means prejudicial to the texture of cloth, hats, or 
 other articles, so often rotted by pernicious black dyes. 
 
 Artificial Musk. 
 
 The mode of making artificial musk, which is often used in Ger- 
 many for that expensive odorous drug, is simply as follows : Add, to 
 one drachm of oil of amber, by small portions at a time, four times 
 the quantity of nitrous acid, commonly called aqua-fortis ; carefully 
 stirring them together with a glass rod all the time, and continuing 
 so to do till the whole be converted into a yellow resin, possessing 
 the smell of musk in great perfection. It must, of course, be kept 
 closely stopped up, like real musk ; and may sometimes supply the 
 place of that high-priced article, not forgetting the nature of its chief 
 ingredient. 
 
 Wonderful but easy and effectual Method of rendering all Sorts 
 of Paper Fire-Proof 
 
 This astonishing effect is produced by a most simple process. 
 It is only necessary, whether the paper be plain, written, or printed 
 on, or even marbled, stained, on painted for hangings, to immerse it 
 in a strong solution of alum-water, and then thoroughly dry it, when 
 it will immediately become fire proof. This experiment is readily 
 ascertained, by holding a slip of paper thus prepared over a candle. 
 Some paper, however, will require to imbibe more of the solution 
 than it may receive by a single immersion ; in which case, the 
 operation of dipping and drying must be repeated till such paper bo* 
 
RECEIFT-BOOK. 
 
 25 
 
 comes fully saturated, when, it is positively asserted, neither the co- 
 lour nor quality of the paper will be in the smallest degree affected ; 
 but that, on the contrary, both will be even improved. 
 
 Bellamy's Patent Methods of making Leather of all Sorts 
 
 Water-Proof 
 
 The patentee and inventor of these methods, Mr. John Bellamy, 
 makes use of two compositions ; which, according to his specifica- 
 tion in the Patent Office, registered 1794, are as follow : A gallon 
 each of nut and poppy oils are to be mixed with three gallons of 
 linseed oil ; or, one gallon of either nut or poppy oil may be added 
 to three of that expressed from linseed ; or, two gallons of linseed 
 oil may be combined with a pint of nut oil and the like quantity of 
 poppy oil. These ingredients, either in the above proportions, or 
 such others as may be required by the nature of the oils, being mix- 
 ed in an iron pot, are to be placed over a gentle fire ; and to each 
 gallon of oil must be added a pound of white copperas, sugar of lead, 
 colcothar, or any other drying substance. When the whole has re- 
 mained six or seven hours over such a degree of heat as it will bear 
 without rising, till it become sufficiently dry, it is to be taken off, 
 and suffered to cool : this first compound is then fit for use. The 
 second compound, for the same purpose of rendering all kinds of 
 leather water-proof, is thus directed to be made : Take a pound of 
 gum resin, half a pound of pitch, and a quarter of a pound each of 
 tar and turpentine ; well mix these ingredients with one gallon of the 
 oils prepared according to the first method, by gently heating the 
 entire mass, and then increasing the fire till the whole be thoroughly 
 incorporated. When the oils prepared according to the first method, 
 or the gums according to the second, are sufficiently cool, either is 
 to be rubbed into the leather with a brush dipped in the respective 
 composition ; and the thoroughly-impregnated leather being stretched 
 on an even board, the superfluous matter is to be removed from its 
 surface. Sole leather, and other thick substances, are to be first 
 gently warmed : and, after being fully saturated with the composition, 
 and properly dried in a warm place, they are ready for use. 
 
 Genuine Receipt for making the Invaluable Cordial Liquor 
 
 called Vespetro , recommended by the king of France’s Physi- 
 cians at Montpellier. 
 
 This truly excellent and agreeable cordial, which comes thus 
 sanctioned to the world, is recommended for all complaints in the 
 stomach, indigestion, sickness, colic, obstructions, stitches of the 
 side, spasms in the breast, diseases of the kidneys, strangury, gra- 
 vel, oppression of the spleen, loathing, vertigo, rheumatism, short- 
 ness of breath, &c. The following are the genuine instructions for 
 making it : Take a thick glass or stone bottle which will hold consider- 
 ably more than two English quarts, and put in it two Paris pints, 
 being equal to about two English quarts, of the best brandy; adding 
 the following seeds, first grossly pounded in a mortar ; two drachms 
 ^f angelica seeds, one ounce of coriander seeds, and a large pinch 
 
26 
 
 THE NEW FAMJL.Y 
 
 of pugil each of fennel seeds and anniseeds. Then squeeze in the 
 juice of two fresh lemons, putting in also their rinds ; add a pound 
 of loaf sugar ; and, well shaking the bottle from time to time, let the 
 whole infuse five days. After this, to render the liquor clearer, pass 
 it through a cotton bag, or filtering paper, and bottle it up, carefully 
 and closely corked. To be taken, a small cordial glass at a time, 
 more or less frequently, according to circumstances. A table- 
 spoonful taken four or five successive mornings, is said to kill the 
 worms in children ; and, on rubbing with that small quantity the 
 nose and temples fasting, it is a preservative of the person so using 
 it against the ill effects of damp or unwholesome air. In short, this 
 liquor will abundantly satisfy all who may have occasion to use it ; 
 and a gentleman having been long afflicted with an hepatic flux, 
 which gave him continual torment, the use of this liquor carried it 
 off, and completely cured him. 
 
 Incomparable Method of Salting Meat , as adopted by the late 
 
 Empress of Russia. 
 
 The following method of salting rrieat is asserted to have been 
 used by the great empress Catharine, in her household establishment, 
 with the utmost success : Boil together, over a gentle fire, six pounds 
 of common salt, two pounds of powdered loaf sugar, three ounces of 
 saltpetre, and three gallons offspring water. Carefully skim it while 
 boiling ; and, when quite cold, pour it over the meat, every part of 
 which must be covered with the brine. In this pickle, it is said, the 
 meat will not only keep for many months, but the hardest and 
 toughest beef will thus be rendered as mellow and tender as the flesh 
 of a young fowl ; while either beef, pork, or even mutton, will have 
 a fine flavour imparted by it. In warm weather, however, the blood 
 must be expressed from the meat, and the whole well rubbed over 
 with fine salt, before it is immersed in the liquor. Young pork should 
 not be left longer than three or four days in this pickle, as it will then 
 be quite sufficiently softened : but hams, intended for drying, tnay 
 remain a fortnight before they are hung up ; when they should be 
 rubbed with pollard, and closely covered with paper bags, to prevent 
 their being fly-blown. Though this pickle is, at first, somewhat 
 more expensive than common brine, (as it may be again used, on 
 being boiled with additional water and the other ingredients,) it is far 
 from being, on the whole, importantly more dear ; whilst it seems to 
 promise advantages which most people would be happy to purchase 
 at a much higher price. 
 
 Electuary for the Rheumatism, by Dr. Brookes. 
 
 Take conserve of orange peel, two ounces ; cinnabar of antimony 
 levigated, half an ounce ; gum guiacum in powder, one ounce ; YV in 
 ter’s bark in powder, three drachms ; syrup of orange peel sufficient 
 to make an electuary. The dose three drachms, morning und 
 evening. 
 
RECEIPT-HOOK 
 
 27 
 
 Art of making the best Black Ink Powder. 
 
 Infuse a quarter of a pound of finely powdered nut galls in three 
 pints of rain or river water ; exposing it, occasionally well stirred, 
 to a moderate degree of warmth for a few days, till the colouring 
 matter seems fully extracted : then filter the solution into a vessel 
 slightly covered, and place it in the open air for several weeks : when, 
 on removing the mouldy skin from the top, which has gradually been 
 formed, it must be carefully collected, have hot water poured over 
 it, undergo another filtration, and then be evaporated to dryness. 
 Thus will be produced a gray crystalline salt, called the acid salt of 
 galls, and which is the essential basis of black ink. On triturating 
 a single drachm of this salt with an equal quantity of vitriol of iron, 
 and about a pennyweight of the driest gum arabic, a composition 
 will be obtained which affords an excellent black ink, merely on 
 being dissolved in warm water. 
 
 Genuine Syrup for Coughs, Spitting of Blood, fyc 
 
 This excellent remedy for such frequently very alarming symp- 
 toms, cannot be made too public. “ He must,” says the learned and 
 liberal Dr. Fuller, “ be a mere stranger in physic, who is not ac- 
 quainted with this most noble syrup, and how mightily it succours 
 those who cough up blood.” It is thus made : Take six ounces of 
 comfrey roots, and twelve handsful of plantain leaves : cut and beat 
 them well ; strain out the juice ; and, with an equal weight of sugar, 
 boil it up to a syrup. 
 
 Vast advantages of Baking instead of Boiling Beet-Root. 
 
 The beet-root too forcibly intrudes itself on the improved sagacity 
 of mankind to be entirely neglected, as a source of cheap and salu- 
 brious food. The late Dr. Lettsom, some few years since, took 
 uncommon pains to recommend a variety of one species of this 
 genus, the German mangel-wurzel, or famine-root, under the ap- 
 pellation of the root of scarcity, or large white beet-root, as an ar- 
 ticle worthy of being universally cultivated. The time, however, 
 seems not yet arrived for the full value of even the more attractive 
 red species to be generally known and duly appreciated ; so that his 
 philanthropic design may be said to have hitherto failed. In speak- 
 ing of the beet-root generally, the red beet-root, therefore, is to be 
 considered as alone designated ; and we are about to offer a few 
 hints for bringing its modest and humble merits into a little more 
 deserved estimation. The rich saccharine juice of the beet-root is, 
 in a great degree, lost, and the root itself rendered, at once, less 
 nutritious by the adventitious watery weakness which it is made to 
 imbibe, as well as by parting with the native gelatinous syrup, of 
 which it is thus forcibly deprived. It is, therefore, most strongly 
 recommended to adopt the mode of baking beet-roots, instead of 
 boiling them, for general use ; when they will, unquestionably, be 
 found to afford a very delicious and most wholesome food. This is 
 not offered as an untried novelty : beet-roots are universally baked 
 
28 
 
 THE NEW FA. WILY 
 
 all over the continent of Europe ; and, in Italy particularly, they 
 are carried about, warm from the oven, twice a day, like hot loaves, 
 &c. in London. They are there purchased by all ranks of people, 
 and afford to many thousands, with bread and a little salt only, a very 
 satisfactory meal. 
 
 Remedy for Wind in the Veins. 
 
 This state of the veins, though always visible on the slightest in- 
 spection, often escapes any notice, though it leads to many disorders. 
 The following remedy may be taken with advantage whenever they 
 appear in a suspicious state : Take equal quantities of powdered 
 liquorice, carraway seeds, and sugar candy : to which add a third 
 part of rhubarb, and the like quantity of cream of tartar, both finely 
 pulverized. Of this mixture, take a tea-spoonful three or four times 
 a day ; either by itself, or in a glass of wine. It should be continued 
 about a week ; and, being gently laxative, it cools the blood, eases 
 pains, and relieves and prevents many disorders. 
 
 Best Method of making Sage Cheese. 
 
 Take the tops of young red sage ; and, having pressed the juice 
 from them by beating in a mortar, do the same with the leaves of spin- 
 age, and then mix the two juices together. After putting the rennet 
 to the milk, pour in some of this juice, regulating the quantify by the 
 degree of colour and taste it is intended to give the cheese. As 
 the curd appears, break it gently, and in an equal manner; then, 
 emptying it into a cheese vat, let it be a little pressed, in order to make 
 it eat mellow. Having stood for about seven hours, salt and turn it 
 daily for four or five weeks, when it will be fit for the table. The 
 spinage, besides improving the flavour and correcting the bitterness 
 of the sage, will give it a much more pleasing colour than can be ob- 
 tained from sage alone. 
 
 Syrup of Ginger. 
 
 An agreeable and moderately aromatic syrup, impregnated with 
 the flavour and medicinal virtues of ginger, is thus prepared : Ma- 
 cerate an ounce and a half of beaten ginger in a quart of boiling 
 water, closely covered up, for twenty-four hours : then, straining off 
 the infusion, make it into a syrup, by adding at least two parts of 
 fine loaf sugar, dissolved and boiled up in a hot water bath. 
 
 W onderful Power of the Turkish Glue, or Armenian Cement , 
 with the Art of making it. 
 
 The jewellers in Turkey, who are mostly Armenians, according 
 to Mr. Eton, formerly a consul, and author of the Survey of the 
 Turkish Empire, have a singular method of ornamenting watch- 
 cases, &c. with diamonds and other precious stones, by simply glu- 
 ing or cementing them. The stone is set in silver or gold, and the 
 other part of the metal made flat to correspond with the part to which 
 it is to be fixed ; it is then warmed gently, and has the glue applied, 
 which is so very strong, that the parts cemented never separate. This 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK. 
 
 29 
 
 glue, which will strongly unite bits of glass, and even polished steel, 
 and may of course be applied to a vast variety of useful purposes, 
 is thus made : Dissolve five or six bits of gum mastich, each the 
 size of a large pea, in as much spirits of wine as will suffice to ren- 
 der it liquid : and, in another vessel, dissolve as much isinglass, pre- 
 viously a little swelled or softened in water, though none of the 
 water must be used, in French brandy or good rum, as will make a 
 two-ounce phial of very strong glue : adding two small bits of gum 
 galbanum, or ammoniacum, which must be rubbed or ground till 
 they are dissolved. Then mix the whole with a sufficient heat. 
 Keep the glue in a phial stopped close, and, when it is to be used, 
 set the bottle in hot or boiling water. Mr. Eton observes, that some 
 persons have, in England, prepared and sold this composition under 
 the name of Armenian Cement ; but it is much too thin, and the 
 quantity of mastich in it too small : it must, this gentleman adds, be 
 like strong carpenters’ glue. This certainly is one of the most 
 valuable known cements in the world. Nor is it at all improbable, 
 that a plan, said to have been invented in France or Germany, for 
 making up clothes, &c. by uniting cloth without sewing, in some at- 
 tempt founded on the use of this very cement ; with what ultimate 
 success, we must leave time to develope. In the mean while, there 
 can be no sort of doubt, that much may be effected by ingenious 
 applications of so powerful an agent. 
 
 Valuable Secret in preparing Foil for Diamonds, and other 
 precious Stones, as used by the Armenian Jewellers. 
 
 The method of preparing the rich foils in which the Armenian 
 jewellers set precious stones, particularly diamonds, to much advan- 
 tage, and which, under roses or half-brilliants, is most remarkably 
 beautiful, and not subject to tarnish, is generally kept as a great se- 
 cret ; and such foils, Mr. Eton assures us, sells at Constantinople 
 for from half to three-quarters of a dollar each. The mode of pre- 
 paring them is extremely simple. An agate is cut, and highly po- 
 lished, of the shape desired ; a cavity of about its own size is next 
 formed in a block of lead, and over this cavity is placed a bit of tin, 
 the thickness of strong brown paper, scraped very bright. The 
 agate is then placed on the tin, over the cavity, and struck with a 
 mallet ; when the beautiful polish which the tin instantly receives, is 
 scarcely to be imagined by those who have never seen it. 
 
 Easy method of Dying Cotton with Madder, as practised at 
 
 Smyrna. 
 
 Cotton, at Smyrna, Mr. Eton tells us, is dyed with madder in 
 the following manner : The cotton is boiled in common olive oil, 
 and then in mild alkali ; being thus cleaned, it will take the mad- 
 der dye : and this is the fine colour so greatly admired in Smyrna 
 cotton-yarn. “ I have heard,” adds this gentleman, “ that the sum 
 of five thousand pounds was given in England for this secret !” It is, 
 doubtless, a secret in preparing cottons, and perhaps other articles, 
 for the reception of a particular dye, very well worth knowing 
 
30 THE NEW FAMILY 
 
 The Duchess of Marlborough' 1 s admirable Water for Thicken- 
 ing the Hair , and to prevent its falling off. 
 
 This most excellent water for the hair is produced in the follow- 
 ing manner : Distil, as cool and slowly as possible, two pounds of 
 honey, a handful of rosemary, and twelve handsful of the curlings 
 or tendrils of grape-vines, infused in a gallon of new milk, from which 
 about two quarts of the water will be obtained. 
 
 Celebrated French Worm Medicine for Dogs. 
 
 This medicine has the reputation of effectually killing and ex- 
 pelling the worms with which dogs are often so grievously tor- 
 mented, and which, probably, may be one grand cause of their 
 running mad. It is thus made : Take, for one dose, which generally 
 proves sufficient, two drachms each of juice of wormwood, aloes, 
 and staves-acre, the two last powdered as small as possible; with 
 one drachm each of pounded burnt hartshorn and sulphur. Mix 
 the whole together in nut oil, to the quantity of about half a glass, 
 which must be given to the dog for a dose. If at all necessary, 
 another dose may be given a day or two after. 
 
 Superior Use of the celebrated German Tinder , and great Im- 
 portance of its being universally adopted. 
 
 On the continent of Europe, every traveller, sportsman, &c. car- 
 ries constantly this tinder about him, which is conveniently portable, 
 and resembles a piece of soft and very thick tanned leather, of elas- 
 tic substance, and a sort of velvet surface on the upper part. It is, 
 in fact, a large fungus, commonly called punk, which grows at the 
 roots of old trees, where it spreads to a considerable size. This 
 substance is dressed, hammered, and otherwise manufactured for 
 the purpose, into this appearance, and, being dried, forms the true 
 German tinder at all times ready for use, and far less liable to be- 
 come damp than English tinder. The manner of using it is by 
 tearing off a small bit, which will serve several times, and holding it 
 at the edge of the flint, which is smote by the steel, instead of the 
 steel by the flint. In this the Germans are so expert, and can so 
 well rely on their tinder, that they will engage to light it at a single 
 stroke, and, indeed, seldom fail to do so. The tinder being thus 
 kindled, may be placed in a pipe of tobacco, or extinguished in- 
 stantlv between the finger and thumb, after lighting a match for this 
 or any other purpose. It is always kept in a pouch or box, with a 
 flint, steel, and short German matches ; and few persons are much 
 from home without carrying them constantly in their pockets. If the 
 German tinder were to be manufactured in England, many poor 
 persons might be employed in collecting the punk, which is now 
 suffered to rot without utility ; and, could it be brought entirely to 
 prevent the destruction of rags for tinder, a quantity far exceeding 
 what may be generally imagined, it might prove the means of greatly 
 assisting the manufacture of paper. 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK. 
 
 31 
 
 To make a Powder , by which you may write with water. 
 
 Bruise to powder a handful of galls, half an ounce of vitriol, an 
 ounce of gum arabic and gum sandrick. Mingle them finely sifted 
 together, then rub your paper with a little of it laid upon cotton 
 wool ; and, having smoothed it, take water, and write upon the pa- 
 per ; then suffering it to dry, it will be black. 
 
 Turkish Method of Filtering Water by Ascension. 
 
 The process is this : They make two wells, from five to ten feet, 
 or any other depth, at a small distance from each other, with a com- 
 munication between the two at their bottoms. The separation is of 
 clay well beaten, or other substances impenetrable by water. Both 
 wells are then filled with sand and gravel. The opening of the well 
 into which the water to be filtered runs, is made somewhat higher 
 than that into which it is to ascend ; nor does the sand of this latter 
 approach the brim, where there i3 either sufficient room left for all 
 the filtered water, or it is drawn off by a spout run into a vessel 
 placed for that purpose. The greater the difference is between the 
 height of the two wells, the faster the water filters ; but the less it is, 
 the better it operates, provided a sufficient quantity of water be sup- 
 plied by it for the intended purpose. This, Mr. Eton observes, may 
 be practised in a cask, tub, jar, or other vessel, and would be use- 
 ful on board of ships : the water being conveyed to the bottom by a 
 pipe, and the lower end having in it a sponge, or the pipe might be 
 filled with coarse sand. It is evident, that all such particles as, by 
 their gravity, are carried down in filtration by descent, will not rise 
 with the water in filtration by ascension. From this account, it 
 should seem, that the principle of filtration by ascent, considered 
 as a new discovery by some ingenious Europeans, has been long 
 known to the Turks. 
 
 Mr. Peacock's Patent Machine for Purifying and Filtering the 
 
 foulest water. 
 
 The utility of filtering machines, in the different processes of 
 brewing, distillery, and dying, as well as that of making bread, and 
 all other domestic arts, is sufficiently obvious. The filtering ma- 
 chine of Mr. Peacock has been contrived and composed with a com- 
 bination of skill and simplicity which is seldom witnessed. The 
 turbid fluid is poured into a vessel, with layers of sifted gravel or 
 small pebbles, in different gradations of size, at the botton, and con- 
 nected somewhat like the Turkish filtering wells, with a similar 
 vessel, with like strata or layers, in progressive degrees of fineness, 
 through which the water, however foul, on it3 entrance into the first 
 vessel, now rises clear and pure in this. Had Mr. Peacock, who is 
 one of the first architects in the world, been a poor or a mercenary 
 man, this invention might have obtained him a large fortune : but, 
 beir.o' neither one nor the other, though this gentleman secured his 
 rio-ht by patent, and he was only solicitous of its being adopted 
 from philanthropic motives, and has probably lost more money 
 
32 
 
 THE NEW FAMILY 
 
 than he has gained by the invention. When its use becomes duly 
 appreciated, some future manufacturer of Mr. Peacock’s filtering 
 machines may probably reap the advantage. A specimen of his 
 machine is deposited in Guildhall, London, and, though capable of 
 yielding a constant and pure stream of three hundred gallons in 
 twenty-four hours, it does not occupy more room than a common 
 large drip or filtering stone, with all its accompanying apparatus : 
 that nothing may be wanting to its perfection, it is easily cleansed, 
 though seldom necessary, in the short space of a single minute. 
 Nothing, therefore, is easier than for brewers, distillers, dyers, &c. 
 who are so inclined, to have all their water filtered by means of Mr. 
 Peacock’s invention, which is capable of being extended to any 
 magnitude, at an expense which cannot be the smallest object to 
 the generality of persons concerned in those respective manufac- 
 tories. This invention, could it be brought into general use, might 
 be considered as a blessing to the nation. At sea, if the strata may be 
 so fixed as not to be too much disturbed or deranged by the ship’s 
 motion, which seems very possible, the use of such a machine must 
 be so great, that no vessel ought to sail without one. A little char- 
 coal, from its antiseptic quality, might perhaps be introduced with 
 advantage among the strata of gravel. The want of filtered water 
 gives rise to more nephritic complaints than is imagined. 
 
 Management of Coffee in France. 
 
 Those who wish to have excellent coffee, in France, roast it every 
 day as it is used : they even say, that it should be roasted, ground, 
 infused, and drunk, in the space of two hours ; and assert that, if 
 these processes be longer in succeeding each other, the coffee loses 
 much of that volatile spirit which constitutes all its agreeable flavour 
 The quantity commonly used is an ounce to five cups of spring wa- 
 ter, to produce four of good and clear coffee. In the mean time, it is 
 usual to throw their coffee grounds into a vessel, boil them half an 
 hour, and leave them to settle : this infusion so well serves for a 
 third part of the coffee in powder, that in a coffee-pot of fourteen 
 cups of pure spring water, which should have three ounces to be 
 good, two ounces with this infusion will be of equal strength and good- 
 ness. The operation of boiling the grounds is performed, in large 
 coffee-houses, five or six times every day. This is the common 
 way of making coffee throughout France, where it is generally drank 
 with sugar and cream ; while, at different coffee-houses, and in par- 
 ticular families, vanilla, isinglass, and other ingredients, are also in- 
 troduced, as they have lately been in England. The French, beside 
 breakfasting often on coffee, usually drink two cups about half an 
 hour after ^linne^to hasten digestion, or abate the fumes of wine 
 and liqueurs wh<m they have been taken to exceed the bounds of ne- 
 cessity. 
 
 An invaluable, though cleanly and easily made Mixture , for 
 effectually destroying those noisome Vermin Bugs. 
 
 Mix half a pint of spirits of turpentine and half a pint of best 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK. 
 
 33 
 
 rectified spirits of wine in a strong bottle, and add in small pieces 
 about half an ounce of camphire, which will dissolve in a few minutes. 
 Shake the mixture well together ; and, with a sponge or brush dip- 
 ped in it, well wet the bed and furniture where the vermin breed. 
 This will infallibly destroy both them and their nits, though thev 
 swarm. The dust, however, should be well brushed from the bed- 
 stead and furniture, to prevent, from such carelessness, any stain. 
 If that precaution is attended to, there will be no danger of soiling 
 the richest silk or damask. 
 
 On touching a live bug with only the tip of a pin put into the mix- 
 ture, the insect will be instantly deprived of existence, and should 
 any bugs happen to appear after using the mixture, it will only be 
 from not wetting the linen, &c. of the bed ; the foldings or linings 
 of the curtains near the rings or the joints, or holes in and about the 
 bed or head-board, in which places the vermin nestle and breed ; so 
 that those parts being well wetted with more of the mixture, which 
 dries as fast as it is used, and pouring it into the joints and holes, 
 where the sponge and brush cannot reach, it will never fail totally 
 to destroy them. 
 
 The smell of this mixture, though powerful, is extremely whole- 
 some, and to many persons very agreeable. It exhales, however, in 
 two or three days. 
 
 Only one caution is necessary ; but that is important. The mix- 
 ture must be well shaken when used ; but never applied by candle- 
 light, lest the spirits, being attracted by the flare of the candle, might 
 cause a conflagration. 
 
 Grand Ptisan , or Diet Drink of Health and Longevity , by a 
 
 celebrated French Physician , ivho lived nearly a hundred and 
 
 twenty years. 
 
 The famous inventor of this admirable prolonger of human exist- 
 ence was Monsieur De Sainte Catharine ; who, by taking it himself 
 for a fortnight, three times a year, before winter, toward Easter, and 
 during the greatest heats of summer, lived to the age of nearly an 
 hundred and twenty years. This ptisan is pronounced useful to all 
 sorts of persons : if they are ill, to cure them ; if well, to preserve 
 them in health. It is even good for infants ; and, above all, excel- 
 lent for old people. An infinitude of facts attest its wonderful ef- 
 fects. It is thus directed to be prepared : Take about a quart of the 
 best-sifted and well-washed oats, and a small handful of wild succory 
 roots newly drawn out of the earth ; boil them gently in six quarts 
 of river water for three-quarters of an hour, and then add half an 
 ounce of crystal mineral, and three or four spoonsful of the best 
 honey, or a quarter of a pound of it in weight. Let the whole now 
 boil half an hour longer ; then strain it through linen, put the liquid 
 'n an earthen vessel, and leave it covered to cool. For persons of a 
 bilious habit, only half the quantity of honey should be used, as the 
 sweetness has a tendency to increase the bile. Two good glasses 
 cf this ptisan should be drank every morning fasting, without eating 
 $ny thing for some hours ; and the same quantity three hours after 
 
34 
 
 THE NEW FAMILY 
 
 dinner. This course must be continued for fourteen days, without 
 bleeding or confinement, or taking broth, new-laid eggs, or any other 
 particular diet, but in all respects living as usual. The weak and 
 infirm need only take a single glass, and they will not fail to feel the 
 good effect. It is natural that persons who are too gross and costive 
 should commence with some previous purgative ; after which this 
 remedy will prove more efficacious. This ptisan is easy to take, 
 and pleasant in its operations ; not occasioning any griping pains or 
 other disagreeable sensations : at the same time, it perfectly cleanses 
 the reins, is very diuretic, greatly promotes expectoration ; purges 
 the brain ; cleanses the lungs, the liver, and the spleen ; expels pu- 
 trid and malignant humours, all pain from the head, gravel, and even 
 stone when newly formed ; cures tertian and quartan agues, how- 
 ever inveterate ; all colics and pleurisies ; the itch, blotches, and 
 other foul eruptions ; and, in short, every kind of heaviness, lassi- 
 tude, and general debility. It rouses the senses, clears the sight, 
 excites appetite, and gives rest and sleep. It refreshes, feeds, and 
 conveys perfect health ; and even seem9 still sensibly operating, 
 and doing good, for a month or two after it has been taken. It is, 
 beside all this, very nourishing. Instead of weakening, as is the 
 case with the greater part of other remedies, it absolutely strengthens: 
 and, during the dog-days and greatest heats of summer, when medi- 
 cines in general are subject to become dangerous, and even fatal, 
 this is in fact more salutary than at any other season. It might, in- 
 deed, be taken every day without doing the smallest injury; the 
 party taking care, during intensely cold weather, to keep constantly 
 warm. To attain long life, it will perhaps be sufficient to take it for 
 a fortnight once or twice in the year ; if once only, during the great 
 heats, as the best season for its use. This panegyric, however 
 great, is translated almost verbatim from a most respectable French 
 author. It is undoubtedly an excellent medicine. 
 
 Curious and Simple Manner of Keeping Apricots , Peaches, 
 
 JVectarines, Plums , fyc. and even Figs, fresh all the Year. 
 
 For this small but excellent article, we are indebted to no less a 
 person than the celebrated Monsieur Lemery, one of the first che- 
 mists France ever produced : Beat well up together equal quantities 
 of honey and common water, pour it into an earthen vessel, put in 
 the fruits all freshly gathered, and cover them up quite close. When 
 any of the fruit is taken out, wash it in cold water, and it is fit for 
 immediate use. 
 
 Genuine Windsor Soap. 
 
 To make this famous soap for washing the hands, shaving, &c. 
 nothing more is necessary, than to slice the best white soap as thin 
 as possible, melt it in a stew-pan over a slow fire, scent it well with 
 oil of carraway, and then pour it into a frame or mould made for 
 that purpose, or a small drawer, adapted in size and form to the 
 quantity. When it has stood three or four days in a dry situation, 
 cut it into square pieces, and it is ready for use. By this simple 
 mode, substituting any more favourite scent for that of carraway, all 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK. 
 
 35 
 
 persons may suit themselves with a good perfumed soap at the most 
 trifling expense. Shaving-boxes may be at once filled with the 
 melted soap, instead of a mould. 
 
 Art of Dying or Staining Leather Gloves, to resemble the 
 beautiful York Tan, Limerick Dye, fyc. 
 
 These different pleasing hues of yellow brown or tan colour, are 
 readily imparted to leather gloves by the following simple process : 
 Steep saffron in boiling hot soft water for about twelve hours ; then 
 having slightly sewed up the tops of the gloves, to prevent the dye 
 from staining the insides, wet them over with a sponge or soft brush 
 dipped into the liquid. The quantity of saffron, as well as of 
 water, will of course depend on how much dye may be wanted ; 
 and their relative proportions, or the depth of colour required. A 
 common tea-cup will contain sufficient in quantity for a single pair 
 of gloves. 
 
 Art of making Phosphoric Tapers or Matches. 
 
 In a tubular piece of glass four inches long, and a single fine 
 only internal diameter, closed at one end, put a small bit of phos- 
 phorus ; and pushing it to the extremity, introduce a taper covered 
 slightly with wax, to fill up the rest of the tube, which must be her- 
 metically sealed ; when plunging the other end into boiling water, 
 the phosphorus melts, and adheres to the taper or match. A line 
 is usually marked on the glass with a flint, at about one-third the 
 length of the tube, where it is to be broken when the taper is wanted 
 for use ; which being then briskly drawn out, will be found complete- 
 ly lighted by the phosphorus. 
 
 Easy Method of preparing Phosphoric Bottles, 
 
 Heat a common glass phial, by fixing it in a ladleful of sand ; 
 then, putting in two or three minute bits of phosphorus, stir them 
 about with a piece of red-hot iron wire, till the phosphorus is all 
 spread over and adheres to the internal surface of the bottle, where 
 it will form a reddish coating. When, by repeated introductions of 
 the heated wire, this is completely effected, the bottle is to remain 
 open a quarter of an hour, and then be corked for use. One end of 
 a common match being put into a bottle thus prepared, on touching 
 the phosphorus, and being suddenly drawn out, will be with certainty 
 lighted. As there can be no particular danger of accidental fire 
 from the use of these bottles ; and, with reasonable care in using 
 them, and keeping them closely stopped, a single bottle would last 
 a considerable time, and might, were the demand general, be replen- 
 ished at a most trifling expense : it may, possibly, in the hands of 
 some ingenious and enterprising person, be finally made to super- 
 sede the tinder-box, that dreadful consumer of rags, and consequent 
 enemy to the manufacture of paper. Phosphorus is one of those 
 grand discoveries of modern times, the chief utilities of which seem 
 to be reserved for a future and wiser age. 
 
36 
 
 THE NEW FAMILY 
 
 Specifications of Lord William Murray’s Patent for extracting 
 Starch from Horse Chesnuts. 
 
 The patent for this useful invention and discovery is dated March 
 8, 1796 ; of course the exclusive privilege of extracting starch from 
 horse chesnuts in the following manner was confined to the patentee 
 till the expiration of fourteen years. We shall present our curious 
 readers with the mode of preparing this starch in his lordship’s own 
 words, extracted from the specification in the Patent Office : “ I first 
 take the horse chesnuts out of the outward green prickly husks ; 
 and then, either by hand, with a knife or other tool, or else with a 
 mill adapted for that purpose, I very carefully pare off the brown 
 rind : being particular not to leave the smallest speck, and to entirely 
 eradicate the sprout or growth. I next take the nuts, and rasp, grate, 
 or grind, them fine into water : either by hand, or by a mill adapted 
 for that purpose. The pulp, which is thereby formed in that water, 
 
 I wash as clean as possible through a coarse hair sieve ; and then, 
 again, through a still finer ; constantly adding clean water, to pre- 
 vent any starch from adhering to the pulp. The last process is, to 
 put it, with a large quantity of water, about four gallons to a pound 
 of sthrch, through a fine gauze, muslin, or lawn, so as entirely to 
 clear it of all bran, or other impurities. As soon as it settles, I pour 
 off the water, and then mix it up with clean ; repeating this operation 
 till it no longer imparts any green, yellow, or other colour, to the 
 water. I then drain it off, till nearly dry ; and set it to bake, either 
 in the usual mode of baking starch, or else spread out before a brisk 
 fire ; being very attentive to stir it frequently, to prevent its horning ; 
 that is to say, turning to a paste or jelly, which, on being dried, turns 
 hard like horn. The whole process should be conducted as quick 
 as possible. The utility of this invention requires no comment. 
 Should it come into general use, not only a vast consumption of 
 wheat flour must be saved ; but, from the necessity of planting more 
 chesnut trees, for the sake of a fruit hitherto considered as of no 
 sort of value, much of that excellent and beautiful wood will be pro- 
 duced for the many purposes to which it is applicable. 
 
 Patent Potato Composition to be used instead of Yeast. 
 
 For this ingenious contrivance, which introduces potatos as a 
 sort of leaven for making wheaten bread, a patent was obtained by 
 the inventor, Mr. Richard Tillyer Blunt, in the year 17S7 ; which, 
 of course, is n<iw expired. The following is the process for this 
 purpose, as described by Mr. Blunt in his specification : To make 
 a yeast gallon of rhis composition, such yeast gallon containing 
 eight beer quarts, boil in common water eight pounds of potatos 
 as for eating ; bruise them perfectly smooth ; and mix with them 
 while warm, two ounces of honey, or any other sweet, and one beer 
 quart of common yeast. For making bread, mix three beer pints 
 of the above composition with a bushel of flour, using warm water 
 in making the bread. The water to be warmer in winter than in 
 summer, and the composition to be used in a few hours after it is 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK, 
 
 37 
 
 made : and, as soon a9 the sponge, or the mixture of the composi- 
 tion with the flour, begins to fall the first time, the bread should be 
 made, and put in the oven. 
 
 Britannic Elastic Gum. 
 
 For the invention of this curious and useful composition, a patent 
 was obtained, in the year 1781, by Mr. Albert Angel : who describes 
 it, in his specification, as being very serviceable and useful in the 
 several branches of portrait and house painting, by making the co- 
 lours durable and free from peeling ; as of great utility in gilding, 
 painting, penciling, and staining of silks, calicos, &c. and in dress- 
 ing silk, linen, and cotton, in the loom, instead of gum or paste, 
 so as to strengthen the threads of the finest cottons ; as excellent 
 for beautifying and fixing the colours on paper, equal to that done 
 in India ; as of the greatest use for rendering the clay, or composi- 
 tion, used in modeling, sufficiently supple, and preventing its drying 
 too fast ; and, lastly, not less effectual in causing a transparency of 
 colours fit for china and earthen ware, so as to stand baking or burn- 
 ing. This Britannic gum is stated to be prepared in the following 
 very simple manner : Put into an iron kettle, and melt down to- 
 gether, till the mixture become this composition or elastic gum, a 
 gallon of linseed or nut oil, a pound of yellow or bleached bees* 
 wax, six pounds of glue or size, a quarter of a pound of verdigrease, 
 a quarter of a pound of litharge, and two quarts of spring or rain 
 water. 
 
 West India Bitters , or Anti-Bilious Drops. 
 
 The following is said to have been Tousaint’s, late Emperor of 
 Hayti, celebrated bitters, called by him anti-bilious drops, and used 
 generally throughout the West ludia islands : Take three drachms 
 of Seville orange peel ; two drachms of gentian root ; one drachm 
 each of cardamoms, grains of paradise, and gallengals ; half a drachm 
 each of nutmeg and cloves ; one scruple each of saffron add cochi- 
 neal ; and half a handful each of camomile flowers and Roman 
 wormwood. Infuse the whole in two quarts of brandy, rum, or 
 Madeira wine ; and, after it has stood some time, pour off what is 
 clear, and add to the ingredients a quart more of either liquor, though 
 brandy is considered as best for the purpose. This, too, having re- 
 mained a somewhat longer time, and been occasionally shaken, may 
 be in like manner poured off for use. Two tea-spoonsful, or some- 
 what less, are directed to be taken, an hour before dinner, in half a 
 glass of wine. 
 
 Oxymel of Garlic for Asthmatic Complaints, Rheumatism , fyc. 
 
 N a general sense, oxymels are any compositions of honey and 
 vinegar boiled to the consistence of a syrup. Simple oxymel, for 
 example, is merely clarified honey melted in an equal weight of wa- 
 ter, with the addition of as much vinegar as water, boiled to the con- 
 sistence of a syrup, and even this, taken about half an ounce at a 
 time, is said to attenuate gross humours, carry away slimy matter, 
 
38 
 
 THE NEW FAMILY 
 
 open old stoppages and obstructions of the lungs, and remove 
 phlegm, with whatever else occasions shortness of breath. In the 
 humid asthma, for promoting expectoration and the fluid secretions, 
 &c. the oxymel of garlic seems to stand in still higher estimation 
 with the faculty. It is thus made : Boil, in a pint of vinegar, half an 
 ounce of cleansed carraway and sweet fennel seeds, for about a 
 quarter of an hour ; then take it off the fire, slice in three ounces of 
 garlic, and cover it closely up. As soon as it becomes cold, the li- 
 quor must be strained and expressed ; and mixed, by the heat of a 
 water bath, with a pound and a quarter of clarified honey, to a pro- 
 per syrupy consistence. A tea-spoonful or two of this oxymel, taken 
 occasionally, particularly night and morning, will scarcely ever fail 
 of proving beneficial to all persons afflicted with an asthma. It is also 
 frequently serviceable in rheumatic complaints, especially when as- 
 sisted by warm embrocations. 
 
 The Honourable Mr. Charles Hamilton's Method of making 
 Grape Wines, fully equal to Champaign and Old Hock., from 
 the Fruit of his beautiful Vineyard at Pain's Hill, in Surry, 
 England. 
 
 The vineyard belonging to Pain’s Hill, one of the finest country 
 residences in the united kingdom, is situated on the south side of 
 a gentle hill, the soil being gravelly sand. It is planted entirely with 
 two sorts of Burgundy grapes : the Avernat, which is the most de- 
 licate and tender ; and the miller’s grape, originally so named from 
 the powdered whiteness on the leaves in the spring, called in Eng- 
 land the Black cluster or Burgundy grape. We shall give, in the 
 Honourable Mr. Hamilton’s own words, his valuable account of the 
 process pursued, and its successful effect : “ The first year I attempt- 
 ed to make wine in the usual way, by treading the grapes ; then let- 
 ting them ferment in the vat till all the husks and impurities formed 
 a thick crust at the top, the boiling ceased, and the clear wine was 
 drawn off from the bottom. This essay did not answer. The wine 
 was so very harsh and austere, that I despaired of ever making red 
 wine fit to drink ; but, through that harshness, I perceived a flavour 
 something like that of small French white wines, which made me 
 hope I should succeed better with white wine. That experiment 
 succeeded far beyond my most sanguine expectations, for, the very 
 first year I made white wine, it nearly resembled the flavour of 
 Champaign ; and, in two or three years more, as the wine grew stron- 
 ger, to my great amazement, my wine had a finer flavour than the 
 best Champaign I ever tasted. The first running was as clear as 
 spirits ; the second running was oeilde per drix, or partridge-eye co- 
 lour ; and both sparkled and creamed in the glass like Champaign. 
 It would be endless to mention how many good judges of wine were 
 deceived by my wine, and thought it superior to any Champaign they 
 had ever drank. Even the Duke de Mirepoix preferred it to anv 
 other wine. But, such is the prejudice of some people against any 
 thing of English growth, I generally found it most prudent not to de 
 dare where it grew till after they passed their verdict on it. The 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK. 
 
 39 
 
 surest proof I can give of its excellence is, that I have sold it to wine 
 merchants for fifty guineas a hogshead ; and one wine merchant, to 
 whom I sold five hundred pounds worth at one time, assured me he 
 sold some of the best of it from seven shillings and sixpence to ten 
 shillings per bottle. After many years experience, the best method 
 I found of managing it was this : I let the grapes hang, till they had 
 got all the maturity the season would give them ; then they were 
 carefully cut off with scissors, and brought home to the wine barn 
 in small quantities to prevent their breaking or pressing one another. 
 Then, they were all picked off the stalks, and all the mouldering or 
 green ones discarded, before they were committed to the press ; 
 where they were all pressed in a few hours after they were gathered. 
 Much would run from them, before the press squeezed them, from 
 their own weight on one another. This running was as clear as 
 water, and as sweet as syrup ; and all of the first pressing, and part 
 of the second, continued white : the other pressings grew’ reddish, 
 and were not mixed with the best. As fast as the juice run from the 
 press into a large receiver, it was put into the hogsheads, and closely 
 bunged up. In a few hours, one would hear the fermentation begin ; 
 which would soon burst the casks, if not guarded again by hooping 
 them strongly with iron, and securing them in strong wooden 
 frames, and the heads with wedges. In the height of the fermen- 
 tation, I have frequently seen the wine oozing through the pores of 
 the staves. These hogsheads were left all the depth of winter 
 in the cold barn, to have the benefit of the frost. When the fermen- 
 tation was over, which was easily discovered by the cessation of the 
 noise and oozing, (but, to be more certain, the pegging the cask 
 showed when it would be quite clear,) then it was racked off into 
 clean hogsheads, and carried to the vaults, before any warmth of 
 weather could raise a second fermentation. In March the hogsheads 
 were examined. If they were not quite fine, they were fined down 
 with common fish glue or isinglass, in the usual manner; those 
 which were fine of themselves were not fined down. All were bot- 
 tled about the end of March ; and, in about six weeks more, would 
 be in perfect order for drinking, and would be in their prime for above 
 one year : but, the second year, the flavour would abate ; and would 
 gradually decline, till it lost all flavour and sweetness. Some, 
 that I kept sixteen years, became so like Old Hock, that it might 
 pass for such to one who was not a perfect connoisseur. The only 
 art I ever used to it was, putting three pounds of white sugar-candy 
 to some of the hogsheads, when the wine was first tunned from the 
 press ; in order to conform to a rage that prevailed, to drink none but 
 very sweet Champaign.” In the astonishing success of this pro- 
 cess we see demonstrated how little assistance from art is required 
 by nature, provided that little be judiciously applied. 
 
 Art of Extracting Spots of Grease, Tallow , Oil, fyc. from Va- 
 luable Books , Prints, and Papers of all Sorts, without the 
 smallest Injury to the Printing or W riting. 
 
 The frequency of such accidents as spot with grease valuable 
 
40 
 
 THE NEW FAMILY 
 
 printed books, prints, ledgers, and other account books, as well as 
 letters and writings of all descriptions, renders the method of restor- 
 ing them to their pristine purity of appearance an article of no little 
 importance. For this purpose, the following is the exact process : 
 Having in readiness some common blotting paper, gently warm the 
 spotted part of the book, or other article damaged by grease, tallow, 
 or oil ; and, as it melts, take up as much as possible, by repeated 
 applications of fresh bits of the blotting paper. When no more can 
 thus be imbibed, dip a small brush in the essential oil of well-rectified 
 spirit of turpentine heated almost to a boiling state ; and wet with it 
 both sides of the paper, which should also be at the same time a lit- 
 tle warm. This operation must be repeated till all the grease be ex- 
 tracted : when another brush, dipped in highly rectified spirit of wine, 
 being passed over the same part, the spot or spots will entirely dis- 
 appear, and the paper re-assume its original whiteness, without de- 
 triment of any sort to the paper, or any printed or written characters 
 previously impressed thereon. 
 
 Blaikie’s Patent Substitute for Gum, in thickening Colours 
 
 for Calico Printers, <^c. 
 
 This useful article is thus described by Mr. Francis Blaikie of 
 Glasgow, the patentee, in his specification : The gum substitute, 
 to thicken colours for linen and calico printing, and making up or 
 furnishing printers’ colour tubs, and which may also be applied to 
 several other uses, is prepared by boiling any quantity of flax-seed 
 in a sufficient quantity of water, till the whole substance be extract- 
 ed ; and, having strained it through a linen or woollen cloth, again 
 boiling down the liquor to the consistence of a jelly. This is to be 
 kept in a close vessel ; and, for preservation, to have a little strong 
 spirits put in, or some sweet oil poured on the top. It might, how- 
 ever, be preserved with bitters. The printer, in using this substitute, 
 may either put a certain quantity into a gallon of colour, according 
 to the nature of it, and the particular kind of work to be done, and 
 regulate himself by trial, as is common in using gum, or reduce the 
 substitute by boiling it in water to the consistence that may be found 
 requisite. 
 
 French Method of Making Garlic Vinegar. 
 
 This, which is one of the favourite French vinegars, is thus sim- 
 ply made : Steep an ounce of garlic in two quarts of the best white- 
 wine vinegar, with a nutmeg soaked and cut in bits, and about a do- 
 zen cloves. 
 
 Fine Tarragon Vinegar. 
 
 The peculiar and agreeable spicy warmth which this slightly- 
 bitter herb, the Artemesia dracunculus of the Linmean system, com- 
 municates to vinegar, makes it much used for that purpose, as well 
 as in salads, soups, &c. throughout Europe. In Spain, and the 
 south of France, it grows naturally to great perfection; and it 
 flourishes in the soil of our English gardens, where it flowers in 
 July, and produces ripe seeds iu autumn. The best way of making 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK. 
 
 41 
 
 tarragon vinegar is, by putting a quantity of the fresh leaves loosely 
 into a jar, and then filling it up with vinegar to the height first occu- 
 pied by the leaves ; if, for example, the jar must be thus apparently 
 filled, there will be still room enough for the proper quantity of 
 vinegar. After it has thus remained two or three weeks, chiefly in the 
 sun or other warm situation, it may be strained off, and passed through 
 a cotton or flannel jelly-bag ; and, if not sufficiently fine for putting 
 up in bottles, is to be cleared in the usual way, either by means of 
 isinglass or a little alum water. It is commonly kept in large bottles, 
 which should be well corked, and placed in a dry situation. As tar- 
 ragon is sirongly recommended to be eaten with lettuce, this vinegar 
 may in some measure supply the place of the herb : as a Corrector 
 of coldness, it is also advisable to be used with cucumbers, &c. 
 The famous Evelyn says, that tarragon is not only highly cordial, but 
 friendly to the head, heart, and liver, and a great corrector of the 
 weakness of the ventricle. 
 
 Vinegar of Roses. 
 
 This fine and beautiful vinegar is made by pouring the best white 
 wine vinegar into a jar or bottle loosely filled with rose leaves, and 
 letting it remain and be treated exactly after the same manner as the 
 tarragon ; putting, however, into each bottle, a lump of refined sugar. 
 Precisely in this way are also to be made vinegars of gilly-flowers* 
 elder-flowers, &c. 
 
 Cheap and excellent Blue Colour for Ceilings > &fc. 
 
 Boil, slowly, for three hours, a pound of blue vitriol, and half a 
 pound of the best whiting, in about three quarts of water : stir it 
 frequently while boiling, and also on taking it off the fire. When it 
 has stood till quite cold, pour off the blue liquor ; then mix the cake 
 of colour with good size, and use it with a plasterer’s brush in the 
 same manner as white-wash, either for walls or ceilings. 
 
 Composition for cleaning Marble Hearths , Chimney Pieces , 
 
 Alabaster , <^-c. 
 
 Mix finely pulverized pumice stone with verjuice, somewhat more 
 than sufficient to cover it ; and, after it has stood an hour or more, 
 dip a sponge in the composition, rub it well over the marble or ala- 
 baster which requires cleaning, wash it off with warm water, and dry 
 it with clean linen or cotton cloths. 
 
 Art of Manufacturing the fine Red and Yellow Morocco 
 heather , as practised inCrim Tartary. 
 
 The celebrated Tour of Mrs. Guthrie, in Taurida, or the Crimea, 
 commonly called Crim Tartary, which was made by that lady in 1795 
 and 1796, furnishes the particulars of this interesting article. In 
 the city of Karasubazar, Mrs. Guthrie informs us, there is an ancient 
 manufactory of Morocco leather, where great quantity are prepared 
 with the skins of the numerous flocks of Tauric goats. The process 
 is thus described : After steeping the raw hides in cold water for 
 twenty-four hours, to free them from the blood and other impurities, 
 
42 
 
 THE NEW FAMILY 
 
 the fleshy parts are scraped off with proper instruments ; when thev 
 are macerated for ten days in cold lime water, to loosen the hair, 
 which is likewise scraped off as clean as possible. Being then soak- 
 ed in cold common water for fifteen days, they are trod or worked 
 under foot in a succession of fresh waters ; till, at length, an admix- 
 ture of dog’s dung being added, they receive a second scraping, and 
 are drained of their humidity. They next proceed to what they de- 
 nominate feeding the skins, by steeping them four days in a cold in- 
 fusion of wheat bran ; and then in a decoction of twenty-eight pounds 
 of honey to five pails of water, cooled to the temperature of milk 
 from the cow. After remaining thus steeped the same period, they 
 are put into a vessel with holes at the bottom, and pressed till all the 
 liquid has escaped. Lastly, they are steeped, for another four days 
 in a slight solution of salt and water, one pound only to five pails, 
 when the leather is quite ready for the reception of the dye. A 
 strong decoction of Artemisa annua, or southernwood, in the pro- 
 portion of four pounds to ten pails of water, seems to be the basis 
 of all the different colours which they give to the Morocco in the 
 Taurida, Astracan, and the other cities formerly belonging to the 
 Turkish empire, where the secret has till now remained. When a 
 red colour is required, one pound of powdered cochineal is gradually 
 stirred into ten pails of the fine yellow decoction of Artemisa, with 
 five or six drachms of alum spread on the leather, in a proper ves 
 sel. They are next worked underfoot, in an infusion of oak leaves 
 in warm water, till they become supple and soft ; when they are 
 finished, by being rinsed in cold water, rubbed over with olive oil, 
 and calendered with wooden rollers. Yellow Morocco leather is dyed 
 with a stonger decoction of Artemisa, twenty pounds to fifteen pails 
 of water ; nothing being added, but two pounds of powdered alum, 
 which is gradually introduced, by half a table spoonful at a time. 
 Each skin is tw'ice stained, previously to the final operations of oil- 
 ing and calendering. It is also necessary to remark, that the skins 
 are prepared in a somewhat different mode for the yellow Morocco 
 leather, than for the red. Neither honey nor salt is used ; but, in- 
 stead of the decoction of honey, immediately after the skins are 
 taken out of the wheat bran infusion, they are steeped two days in 
 an infusion of oak leaves : after which, they are next rinsed in cold 
 water, and thus made ready for staining yellow. Mrs. Guthrie can- 
 didly acknowledges, that the above is all the certain information 
 which she has been able to obtain on this curious subject ; as she 
 could by no means depend on the vague reports which she had heard 
 relative to the colouring matter added for staining the green and blue 
 kinds. It may, however, be presumed, that the light, which this 
 lady has thrown on the process of d\ ing Morocco leather in ge- 
 neral, will sufficiently guide our manufacturers to a judicious search 
 after those particular but inferior objects, which yet remain undis- 
 covered. 
 
 Turkish, Rouge ; or, Secret of the Seraglio for making an 
 
 admirable Carmine. 
 
 Infuse, for three or four days, in a bottle of the finest white wine 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK. 
 
 43 
 
 vinegar, half a pound of Fernambourg Brasil wood, of a golden red 
 colour, well pounded in a mortar. Boil them together half an hour 
 strain them through linen, and place the liquid again over the tiffs. 
 In the mean time, having dissolved a quarter of a pound of alum in 
 a pint of white wine vinegar, mix the two liquids, and stir them we? 
 together with a spatula. The scum which now arises, on being 
 carefully taken off and gradually dried, will prove a most beautiful 
 delicate, and perfectly inoffensive, rouge or carmine. 
 
 Purified Syrup of Molasses. 
 
 In many parts of the continent of Europe, a method has lor some 
 years been successfully practised, on a large scale, of divesling mo- 
 lasses, vulgarly called treacle, of its peculiar mawkish and unplea- 
 sant taste, so as to render it, for many purposes, little less useful 
 and pleasant than sugar. Indeed, unless it be for cordials mixed 
 with spices, or in domestic dishes where milk is an ingredient, it may 
 very generally be substituted for sugar. The process for thus pre- 
 paring it is sufficiently simple, and by no means expensive : Boil 
 twelve pounds of molasses, with three pounds of coarsely-pounded 
 charcoal, in six quarts of water, over a slow fire. After the mixture 
 has been stirred together, and simmered for at least half an hour, 
 decant it into a deep vessel ; and, when the charcoal has subsided, 
 pour off the liquid, and again place it over the fire, that the super- 
 fluous water may evaporate, and restore the syrup to about its ori- 
 ginal consistence. Thus refined, it will produce twelve pounds of a 
 mild and good syrup, proper for use in many articles of food, &c. 
 
 Art of preparing a fine Red Lake from Dutch Madder. 
 
 The use of madder, in dying a fine red colour, and also as a first 
 tint for several other shades, has long rendered it famous among 
 dyers ; and, by the following process, it will afford a permanent lake 
 of a fine red, applicable to every purpose of painting : Dissolve two 
 ounces of the purest alum in three quarls of distilled water previously 
 boiled in a clean glazed vessel, and again set over the fire. With- 
 draw the solution as soon as it begins to simmer, and add to it two 
 ounces of the best Dutch madder ; then, boiling it up once or twice, 
 remove it from the fire, and filter it through clean white paper. Let 
 the liquor thus filtered stand all night to subside ; and, next day, 
 pour the clear fluid into the glazed vessel, heat it over the fire, and 
 gradually add a strained solution of salt of tartar, till the madder be 
 wholly precipitated. The mixture must now be again filtered, and 
 .'oiling distilled water be poured on the red pow-der till the fluid no 
 onger obtains a saline taste. Nothing more is now necessary, but 
 
 /] r y the lake, which will be of a deep red colour. If two parts of 
 madder be used to one of alum, the shade will be still deeper; and, 
 if one part of the latter article be added to four parts of the former, a 
 beautiful rose colour will be produced. 
 
 Clarified Goose Grease. 
 
 Goose grease is a valuable but neglected article in most families; 
 and, when properly clarified, forms a most delicate basis for many 
 
44 
 
 THE NEW FAMILY 
 
 culinary purposes. This is easily effected by the following simple 
 process : On drawing a goose, separate all the internal fat, and put 
 it by in a basin. When the goose is roasted, carefully preserve the 
 dripping separated from the gravy, & c. which is most eiiectuallv 
 done on its getting quite cold. The sooner this is put in a saucepan, 
 with the raw fat, accompanied by a small onion having three cloves 
 stuck into it, the better. Being gently simmered, press it with a 
 wooden spoon till the whole be melted ; then, having well scummed 
 it, pass it through a sieve, into ajar capable of containing whatever 
 quantity is likely to be thus added during the season. A moderate 
 use of this article will render many dishes inconceivably savoury, 
 particularly rice, thick soups, force-meats, &c. It should be served 
 out with a wooden spoon ; and, if kept in a cool place, properly co- 
 vered, will continue sweet and good the year round. 
 
 Composition for Restoring scorched Linen. 
 
 The following composition will be found completely to restore 
 linen which has been scorched in ironing, or by hanging too near tne 
 fire, &c. accidents that too frequently occur ; and, hitherto, without 
 any effectual remedy : Boil to a good consistency, in half a pint or 
 vinegar, two ounces of fullers’ earth, an ounce of hen’s dung, naif 
 an ounce of cake soap, and the juice of two onions. Spread tms 
 composition over the whole of the damaged part ; and. if the scorc.n- 
 ing were not quite through, and the threads actually consumed, alter 
 suffering it to dry on, and letting it receive a subsequent good w ash- 
 ing or two, the place will appear full as white and perfect as any other 
 part of the linen. 
 
 Easy French Method to prevent Bacon from becoming Busty. 
 
 When the bacon has been salted about a fortnight, put it in a box 
 the size of the flitches or pieces to be preserved, on a good bedding 
 of hay : and wrap each piece round entirely with hav, placing also a 
 layer between every two flitches or pieces. The box must, of course, 
 be closed, to keep out rats, &c. In this state, it will continue as good 
 as at first, and without the possibility of getting rusty, for much lon- 
 ger than a year, as has frequently been experienced. It must, how- 
 ever, be kept in a place free from damp. 
 
 Best Saxon Blue. 
 
 Mix an ounce of the best powdered indigo w ith four ounces of oil 
 of vitriol, in a glass body, and digest it for an hour w ith the heat 
 of boiling water, frequently shaking the mixture. Then add three 
 quarters of a pint of water ; stir the w hole w ell together ; and, when 
 cold, filter it. This produces a very reh deep blue colour ; if wanted 
 paler, more water must be added. The heat of boiling water, w hich 
 is sufficient for this operation, can never spoil the colour. By pre- 
 viously digesting the indigo in a large quantity of spirit of wine, dry- 
 ing it, and then using it as above, a still finer blue may be produced ; 
 but this is not often judged necessary, except for very fine paintings. 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK. 45 
 
 The Reverend Mr. Cartwright's Account of the Wonderful 
 Efficacy of Yeast in the Cure of Putrid Diseases. 
 
 The following account of the Reverend Mr. Cartwright’s first 
 discovery, and subsequent experience, of the good effects of ad- 
 ministering yeast in putrid sore throats, fevers, &c. cannot be too 
 generally made known : — “ Several years ago,” says this gentleman, 
 for we shall transcribe verbatim his own highly interesting narrative, 
 “ I went to reside at Brampton, a very populous village near Ches- 
 terfield. I had not been there many months before a putrid fever broke 
 out among us ; and, finding by far the greater number of my new 
 parishioners much too poor to afford themselves medical assistance, 
 I undertook, by the help of such books on the subject of medicine 
 as were in my possession, to prescribe for them. I early attended a 
 boy about fourteen years of age, who was attacked by this fever ; he 
 had not been ill many days, before the symptoms were unequivocally 
 putrid. I then administered bark, wine, and such other remedies as 
 my books directed. My exertions, however, were of no avail : his 
 disorder grew every day more untractable and malignant, so that I 
 was in hourly expectation of his dissolution. Being under the abso- 
 lute necessity of taking a journey, before 1 set off I went to see him, 
 as 1 thought for the last time ; and I prepared his parents for the 
 event of his death, which I considered as inevitable ; reconciling 
 them, in the best manner I was able, to a loss which I knew they 
 would feel severely. While I was in -conversation on this distressing 
 subject with his mother, I observed, in a corner of the room, a small 
 tub of wort working. The sight brought to my recollection an ex- 
 periment I had somewhere met. with, of a piece of putrid meat 
 being made sweet by suspending it over a tub of wort in the act of 
 fermentation. The idea instantly flashed into my mind, that the 
 veast might correct the putrid nature of this disease : and I instantly 
 gave him two large spoonsful, telling the mother, if she found her 
 son better, to repeat this dose every three hours. I then set out on 
 my journey. On my return, after a few days, I anxiously inquired 
 about the boy, and was informed he had recovered. I could not re- 
 press my curiosity. Though I was greatly fatigued with my journey, 
 and night was come on, I went directly to where he lived ; which 
 was three miles off', in a wild part of the moors. The boy hims*8t 
 opened the door ; looked surprisingly well ; and told me, that Ire 
 felt better from the instant he took the yeast. After I left Brampton, 
 I lived in Leicestershire ; and, my parishioners being there few and 
 opulent, I dropped entirely my medical character, and would not 
 even prescribe for any of my own family. One of ray domestics 
 falling ill, accordingly the apothecary was sent for. The servant’s 
 complaint was a violent fever ; which, in its progress, became putrid. 
 Having great reliance, and deservedly, on the apothecary’s penetra- 
 tion and judgment, the man was left solely to his management. His 
 disorder, however, kept daily gaining ground : till, at length, the 
 apothecary considered him in very great danger. At last, finding 
 every effort to be of service to him baffled, he told me, he consi- 
 dered it as a lost case ; for, in his opinion, the man could not survive 
 
46 
 
 THE NEW FAMILY 
 
 four and twenty hours. On the apothecary thus giving him up, I 
 determined to try the effects of yeast, and gave him two large tea- 
 spoonsful. In fifteen minutes from taking it, his pulse, though still 
 feeble, began to get composed and full ; and, in thirty-two minutes 
 from taking the yeast, he was able to get up from his bed, and walk 
 in his room. At the expiration of the second hour, I gave him a 
 basin of sago, with a good deal of lemon w ine, and ginger in it, and 
 he ate it with appetite. In another hour, I repeated the yeast ; an 
 hour afterward, I gave him the bark ; and, the next hour, he had 
 food. He had, next, another dose of yeast ; and then went to bed, 
 being nine o’clock. I went to him next morning, at six o’clock ; when 
 he told me he had had a good night, and was recovered. I, how- 
 ever, repeated his medicine, and he was able to go about his busi- 
 ness as usual. A year after this, as I was riding past a detached 
 farm-' ouse at the outskirts of the village, I observed the farmer’s 
 daughter standing at the door apparently in great affliction. On in- 
 quiring into the cause of her distress, she told me her father was 
 dying. I dismounted, and went into the house to see him. I found 
 him in the last stage of a putrid fever ; his tongue was black ; his 
 pulse was scarcely perceptible ; and he lay stretched out, like a 
 corpse, in a state of drowsy insensibility. I immediately procured 
 some yeast ; w hich I diluted with water, and poured down his throat. 
 I then left him, with little hope of his recovery. I returned to him 
 in about two hours ; and found him sensible, and able to converse. 
 
 I then gave him a dose of bark. He afterward took, at a proper 
 interval, some refreshment. I continued with him till he repeated the 
 yeast ; and then left him, with directions how to proceed. I called 
 on him the next morning at nine o’clock, and found him apparently 
 well, walking in his garden. He was an old man, upwards of seventy. 
 
 I have, since, administered the yeast to above fifty persons labour- 
 ing under putrid fevers ; and, w hat is singular, I have not lost one 
 patient.” Dr. Thornton, whose opportunities have been great, as 
 superintending physician of the General Dispensary, including the 
 poor of nine parishes in London, has made frequent trials of yeast. 
 In St. Giles’s, particularly, among the numerous poor of that crowd- 
 ed district, he administers, in putrid diseases, after cleansing the 
 first passages, nothing else but two table spoonsful of yeast in some 
 porter, every two hours- and, in about fifty successive cases, not a 
 single patient died under this treatment. The following cases are 
 selected, from this physician’s successful practice, as peculiarly in- 
 teresting. As Dr. Thornton was accidentally passing the shop of Mr. 
 Burford, in Tottenham Court Road, he heard the shrieks of a mo- 
 ther, agonized at seeing her child apparently expire. These alarming 
 screams renewed the struggles of the child ; and the nurse was, at this 
 moment, threatening to take away the child, that it might die in peace. 
 The doctor immediately got dow n some tartar emetic, which quickly 
 acted on the stomach ; and, that operation ended, gave a dose of 
 rhubarb, to clear also the intestines. He then ordered the child yeast 
 and water every two hours, with wine and bark; and, in three days, 
 the dying child was up and well. The infection had spread to two 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK. 
 
 47 
 
 other persons in the same house. With this, and another child, the 
 putrid fever was attended by swelled glands, which had suppurated, 
 and threatened mortification : with a robust servant girl, it took the 
 form of a putrid sore throat. This girl also had an emetic, and after- 
 ward rhubarb, followed by yeast and water every two hours. The 
 first effect of the yeast was that of rendering the pulse fuller, and 
 diminishing it fifteen beats a minute : the blackness of her tongue 
 soon began to assume a clean and a red appearance ; and, without 
 either bark or wine, she was speedily restored to health. In Husband- 
 street, a very confined situation near Berwick-street, a malignant 
 fever prevailed ; which, within a fortnight, had swept away six per- 
 sons from three houses only, when Ur. Thornton was called in, to 
 the assistance of a mother, who lay in the same bed with her two 
 children. She was delirious ; and violently rejected both food and 
 medicine, with which she was, consequently, obliged to be drenched. 
 After an emetic and cathartic had been got down each, herself and 
 children were all put on the same plan : that is, each was made to 
 swallow, every three hours, two-thirds of a glass of fresh porter, 
 with two table spoonsful of yeast, and the juice of half a lemon. 1 he 
 food given at intervals was the white of eggs, beat up with some su- 
 gar and water ; the doctor judging that, as the white of eggs, even 
 under the heat of a hen’s body during incubation, does not corrupt, 
 but actually serves as milk to the embryo in the shell, this was of all 
 things least liable to putrefy. Strawberries, being in season, were 
 also ordered ; and, with this management alone, she and her little 
 family all rapidly recovered. More testimonies might easily be add- 
 ed, and from several other respectable practitioners ; but farther 
 proofs seem unnecessary to establish the prodigious efficacy of yeast, 
 in one of the most fatal class of maladies with which human nature 
 is peculiarly subject to be afflicted. Where, indeed, is the family, 
 which has not suffered by the dreadful ravages of some putrid disease, 
 which, under Providence, a knowledge of this simple but potent 
 remedy, and for which we are indebted to the Reverend Mr. Cart- 
 wright, might happily have prevented ! 
 
 Admirable Cement , or Mortar, as made on the Cotswold Hills. 
 
 On the Cotswold Hills, in Gloucestershire, where lime is dear, and 
 sand not to be had, an excellent mortar is prepared at a moderate 
 price. Invention is seldom more successful than when it is prompted 
 by necessity. The scrapings of the public roads over these hills, 
 being levigated lime-stone, more or less impregnated with the dung 
 and urine of the animals travelling on them, are found to be a most 
 admirable basis for cement. The scrapings are often used for ordi- 
 nary walls ; and the general proportion, for even the best buildings, is 
 not more than one part lime to three of scrapings. This mortar, of less 
 than ten years standing, has been observed to possess a stone-like 
 tenacity, much firmer than the common stone of the country : and, 
 consequently, much harder than the stones from which either the 
 basis or the lime was made. The method of preparing this powerful 
 .mortar, or cement, is simply by collecting the road scrapings, slack* 
 
4S 
 
 THE NEW F V MILY 
 
 ing the lime, and mixing them very thoroughly together : carefully 
 picking out, as the mass is worked over, the stones or other foulnesses 
 which may have been collected. For stone-work, this is quite suffi- 
 cient ; for brick- work, it might be necessary to pass the materials 
 through a screen or sieve, previously to their being united, and made, 
 up into mortar. Similar scrapings may be collected, wherever lime 
 stone is used as a material in making or repairing roads : this admi- 
 rable mortar can, therefore, readily be prepared, in ail such places, 
 with very little trouble or expense. 
 
 Ancient British Liquor , called Bragget. 
 
 This once famous old British liquor is still made by a few respec- 
 table families, chieflv in Wales : from one of which we have been 
 favoured with an admirable method of preparing it. The original 
 Welsh name is bragod ; from which has been formed that of bragget, 
 or braggot. for it is found both wavs in the few old dictionaries and 
 other books where it occurs, and simply defined as a drink consist- 
 ing of honev and spices. Were this correct, it could only be con- 
 sidered as the Welsh appellation of mead or metheglin : but, accord- 
 ing to our information, bragget implies a combination of malt liquor 
 with honey and spices, the best method of preparing which is as fol- 
 lows : Take after the rate of a gallon of water to a pound of honev, 
 and stir it till the honey be melted. Then, adding half a handful 
 each of rosemary tops, bay-leaves, sweet briar, angelica, balm, 
 thyme, or other sweet herbs, with half an ounce of sliced ginger, 
 and a little nutmeg, mace, cinnamon, and a few cloves, boil them 
 gently together for nearly half an hour : scumming it well, till it looks 
 tolerably clear. In the mean time, having prepared three gallons of 
 the first runnings of strong ale. or sweet wort, mix the two liquids quire 
 hot, with all the herbs and spices : and. stirring them together for 
 some time over a fire, but without suffering them to boil, strain off 
 the liquor, and set it to cool. When it becomes onlv the warmth of 
 new milk, ferment it with good ale veast : and. after it has properlv 
 worked, tun it up, and hang a bag of bruised spices in the barrel, 
 where it is to remain all the time of drawing. It is generallv drank 
 from the cask : but may be bottled, like other liquors, anv time after 
 it has entirely ceased to hiss in the barrel. A weaker sort of brae- 
 get is sometimes prepared with the third runnings of the ale, a smal- 
 ler proportion of honev. and the strained spices, &c. with a few fresh 
 herbs ; the second runnings, in that case, being made the family ale. 
 These arrangements, however, and other obvious deviations, are 
 made according to the taste or inclination of the respective parties. 
 
 fVonderful effect of Potato Liquid , in Cleaning Silk, IVool- 
 
 len, and Cotton Furniture or Apparel , $-c. without Injury to 
 
 the Texture or Colour. 
 
 For the communication of this valuable discovery to the Society 
 for the Encouragement of Arts. Manufactures, and Commerce, in 
 the Adelphi. February 4, ISOo. Mrs. Morris obtained a premium of 
 fifteen guineas from that truly honourable institution ; in whosa 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK. 
 
 49 
 
 transactions of that year it is thus regularly described : Take raw 
 potatoes, in the state they are taken out of the earth. Wash them 
 well : then rub them on a grater, over a vessel of clean water, to t 
 fine pulp ; pass the liquid matter, through a coarse sieve, into anothei 
 tub of clear water ; let the mixture stand, till the fine white par 
 tides of the potatoes are precipitated ; then pour the mucilaginous 
 liquor from the fecula, and preserve this liquor for use. The article 
 to be cleaned should be laid, on a linen cloth, on a table : and, having 
 provided a clean sponge, dip the sponge in the potato liquor, and 
 apply the sponge thus wet. on the article to be cleaned; and rub it 
 well on with repeated portions of the potato liquor, till the dirt is 
 perfectly separated. Then wash the article in clean water several 
 times, to remove the loose dirt. It may, afterward, be smoothed o 
 dried. Two middle sized potatoes will be sufficient for a pint of 
 water. The white fecula, which separates in making the mucilagi- 
 nous liquor, will answer the purpose of tapioca : it will make a use- 
 ful and nourishing food with soup or milk, or serve to make starch 
 and hair powder. The coarse pulp, which does not pass the sieve, 
 is of great use in cleaning worsted curtains, tapestry, carpets, or 
 other coarse goods. The mucilaginous liquor of the potatoes will 
 clean all sorts of silk, cotton, or woollen goods, without damaging 
 the texture of thh article or spoiling the colour. It is also useful in 
 cleaning oil paintings, or furniture that is soiled. Dirty painted 
 wainscots may be cleaned by wetting a sponge in the liquor, then 
 dipping it in a little fine clean sand, and afterward rubbing the wains- 
 cot therewith. Various experiments were made by Mrs. Morris, in 
 the presence of a committee, at the society’s house ; and the whole 
 process, on fine and coarse goods of different fabrics, was perform- 
 ed to their entire satisfaction. This simple but very valuable dis- 
 covery may certainly be applied to many other useful purposes, as 
 well as those which are here particularly enumerated. 
 
 New method of Clearing Feathers from their Animal OH. 
 
 The process for effecting this useful purpose, is thus described in 
 the Transactions of the Adelphi Society, who rewarded Mrs. Rich- 
 ardson with a premium of twenty guineas for making the discovery : 
 Take for every gallon of clear water, a pound of quick lime. Mix 
 them well together; and, when the undissolved lime is precipitated 
 in fine powder, pour off (he clear lime-water for use, at the time it is 
 wanted. Put the feathers to be cleaned in another tub, and add to 
 them a sufficient quantity of the clear lime-water to cover the fea- 
 thers about three inches when well immersed and stirred therein. The 
 feathers, when thoroughly moistened, will sink down ; and should re- 
 main in the lime-water three or four days : after which, the foul liquor 
 should be separated from the feathers, by laying them on a sieve. The 
 feathers should be afterward well washed in clean water, and dried 
 on nets, the meshes being about the same firmness as those of cab- 
 bage nets. The feathers must, from time to time, be shaken on the 
 nets ; and, as they dry, they will fall through the meshes, and are to 
 be collected for use. The admission of air wjll be serviceable in the 
 
50 
 
 THE NEW FAMILY 
 
 drying, and the whole process may be completed in about three weeks. 
 The feathers, after being thus prepared, will want nothing more than 
 beating for use, either as beds, bolsters, pillows, or cushions. So 
 effectual is this method, and so preferable to the old and common 
 way of stoving or baking, that an eminent dealer having sent to the 
 society some bags of foreign feathers, which retained their unplea- 
 sant smell after having been stoved the usual period of three days, 
 Mrs. Richardson rendered them perfectly sweet and clean. This is 
 a very important discovery ; more particularly as the feathers, by not 
 being hardened with heat, certainly require less beating. 
 
 Mr. Sebastian Grandi's Restoration or Discovery of the old 
 
 Venetian Art of preparing Grounds for Painting on Pan- 
 
 nels, Copper , or Canvas, &/•: 
 
 This ingenious gentleman, having long had the honour of being 
 employed by the most eminent professors of the fine arts in Italy 
 and England, and assisted and improved the processes of preparing 
 canvases and the pannels, seems to have discovered, as far as ex- 
 perience can prove, the manner of preparing either canvas, copper, 
 or pannel, in the old Venetian stile ; an art which has been long lost, 
 and to which it is well known that Titian, Paul Veronese, Bassani, 
 and other Venetian masters, owed much of the peculiar harmony, 
 brightness, and durability, of their beautiful productions. Mr. Grandi, 
 having communicated, for the public benefit, his entire process of 
 thus preparing pannels, canvas, &c. for artists ; and also made 
 other valuable communications with regard to the preparation of oils, 
 colours, crayons, &c. for painting and drawing ; was rewarded by 
 the Honourable Society in the Adelphi for the encouragement of 
 Arts, &c. with their elegant and honourary silver medal, as well as 
 a pecuniary premium of twenty guineas. These, therefore, in per- 
 fect concert with the design of that liberal and truly patriotic institu- 
 tion, we shall contribute all in our power to make more generally 
 known. Mr. Grandi’s method of preparing pannels and canvases 
 for painters is thus described : Break, grossly, the bones of sheep’s 
 trotters, and boil them in water till they are cleared from their grease , 
 then putting them into a crucible, calcine them, and afterward grind 
 them to powder. Dry some wheaten flour in a pan, over a slow fire ; 
 then make it into a thin paste, adding an equal quantity of the pul- 
 verized bone ashes, and grind the whole mass well together. This 
 mixture forms the ground for the pannel. When the pannel has been 
 well pumiced, some of the mixture or ground is to be well rubbed 
 on a pumice stone, that it may be incorporated with the pannel : 
 another coat of the composition is next applied, with a brush on the 
 pannel, where it is suffered to dry, the surface being afterward rubbed 
 over with sand paper. A thin coat of the composition is then ap- 
 plied with a brush ; and, if a coloured ground be required, a coat or 
 two more must be added, so as to complete the absorbent ground. 
 W r hen a pannel thus prepared is wanted to be painted on, it must be 
 rubbed over with a coat of raw linseed or poppy oil, as drying oil 
 would destroy the absorbent quality of the ground ; and the painter’s 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK. 
 
 51 
 
 colours should also be mixed up with the purified oil for painting 
 hereatter mentioned. Canvas grounds are prepared by giving them 
 a thin coat ot the composition, and afterward drying and pumicing 
 them ; then giving them a second coat, and, lastly, a coat of colour- 
 ing matter along with the composition. The grounds thus prepared 
 do not crack : they may be painted in a very short time after being 
 laid ; and, from their absorbent quality, allow the business to be pro- 
 ceeded in with greater facility and better effect than with those pre- 
 pared in the usual mode. These valuable qualities have been suf- 
 ficiently ascertained, and are liberally avowed, by Sir William Beechy 
 and other Royal Academicians, whose names are added to Mr. 
 Grandi’s last communication. 
 
 Method of Purify ing the Oil for mixing up Colours. 
 
 Make some of the bone-ashes into paste with a little water, so as 
 to form a mass or ball. Put this ball into the fire, and make it red 
 hot ; then immerse it, for an hour, in a quantity of raw linseed oil 
 sufficient to cover it. When cold, pour the oil into bottles ; add to 
 it a little of the bone ashes ; let it stand to settle ; and, in a single 
 day, it will be clear, and fit for use. 
 
 Preparation of White , Brown, Yellow, Red, Gray, and Blue 
 Black Colours, which never Change, and may be used either 
 in Oil or Water. 
 
 White is made by calcining the bones of sheep’s trotters in a 
 clear open fire, till they become a perfect white, which will never 
 change. Brown is made from bones in a similar manner, only cal- 
 cining from them in a crucible instead of an open fire. Yellow, or 
 masticot, by burning a piece of soft brick of a yellowish colour in the 
 fire ; giinding a quarter of a pound of flake white with every pound 
 of brick : calcining them, as well as grinding them, together ; and, 
 afterward, washing the mixture to separate the sand, and letting the 
 finer pait gradually dry for use. Red, equal in beauty to Indian red, 
 by calcining some of the pyrites usually found in coal pits. Gray, 
 by calcining together blue slate and bone ashes powdered, grinding 
 them together, washing the texture, and gradually drying it. Blue 
 Black, by burning vine stalks within a close crucible and in a slow 
 fire, till they become a perfect charcoal, which must be well ground 
 for use. 
 
 Superior Crayons, of Permanent Colours , to be applied either 
 
 in Water or Oil. 
 
 These crayons, produced also by Mr. Grandi, are of a quality 
 superior to any heretofore in use ; they are fixed, so as to prevent 
 their rubbing off the paper when used, and may be applied in water or 
 oil. This process of preparing the crayons is thus described : — They 
 are made of bone-ash powder mixed with spermaceti, adding the co- 
 louring matters. The proper proportion is, three ounces of sperma- 
 ceti to a pound of the powder ; the spermaceti to be first dissolved 
 in a pint of boiling water ; then the white bone-ashes added ; and tho 
 
52 
 
 THE NEW FAMILY 
 
 whole to be well ground together, with as much of the respective 
 colouring matter as may be necessary for the shade of colour want- 
 ed. They are then to be rolled up in the proper form, and gradual- 
 ly dried on a board. 
 
 Preparation of White and Coloured Chalks. 
 
 If white chalk be required to work soft, add a quarter of a pound 
 of \. luting to a pound of the bone-ash powder; otherwise, the 
 bone-ashes will answer alone. Coloured chalks are prepared by 
 grinding the respective colouring matters with bone-ashes. These 
 several communications, relative to the preparation of grounds, oil, 
 colours, era' ons, and chalks, for painters, were most respectably 
 certified to the Society in the Adelphi, by Sir William Beechy, and 
 the following other Royal Academicians, &c. Benjamin West, John 
 Opie, Martin Archer Sliee, James Northcote, i homas Lawrence, 
 Joseph Farrington, Richard Cosway. P. J. De Loutherbourg, Rich- 
 ard M. Paye, and Isaac Pocock, Esquires ; who all confirm the 
 good qualities of the paunels prepared by Mr. Grandi, and generally 
 recommend his colours as useful and permanent. The materials 
 are certainly exiremely cheap, as well as easy to be procured, and 
 none of the processes for preparation are at all difficult. 
 
 Syrup of Damask Roses. 
 
 The Edinburgh Dispensatory describes syrup of damask roses as 
 an agreeable and mild purgative for children, in doses of from half 
 to a whole table spoonful. It likewise mentions, that this syrup 
 proves gently laxative to adults; and, with that intention, may be of 
 service to costive habits. The method of preparing it, according to 
 the London practice, is as follows : — Take seven ounces of the dried 
 petals of the damask rose, six pounds of double-refined sugar, and 
 four pints of boiling distilled water. Macerate the roses in the wa- 
 ter for twelve hours, and then stiain. Evaporate the strained liquor 
 to two pints and a half ; and add the sugar, that it may be made a 
 syrup. In the Edinburgh practice, it is prepared thus: — Take one 
 pound of the fresh petals of the damask rose, four pounds of boiling 
 water, and three pounds of double-refined sugar. Macerate the 
 roses in the water for twelve hours; then, to the strained infusion, 
 add the sugar, and boil them to a syrup in the usual manner, as di- 
 rected for syrup of clove gillyflowers, &c. 
 
 Syrup of Red Roses. 
 
 This, in the Edinburgh Dispensatory, is properly distinguished 
 from the syrup of damask roses ; being considered as mildly astrin- 
 gent, instead of gently laxative. It seems, however, principally 
 valued on account of its beautiful red colour. The manner of pre- 
 paring it is almost the same as the London method of making the 
 syrup of damask roses, called simply syrup of roses: — Take seven 
 ounces of the dried petals of red roses, six pounds of double-refined 
 sugar, and five pounds of boiling water. Macerate the roses in the 
 water for twelve hours ; then boil a little, and strain the liquor : add 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK. 
 
 
 -o it the sugar, and boil again for a little, so as to form a syrup. 
 There is, it must be confessed, a marked distinction between the 
 London and Edinburgh methods of preparing syrup of roses, much 
 in favour ot the latter’s superior discrimination : particularly, as the 
 damask rose, besides diliering essentially in its medicinal effect, has 
 its odour almost destroyed by drying ; while the red rose leaves or 
 petals, on the contrary, are well known to gain increased fragrance 
 when carefully dried. 
 
 Excellent Spruce Beer. 
 
 The salubrity of spruce beer is universally acknowledged ; and, 
 notwithstanding its invincible terebinthine flavour, forms so refreshing 
 and lively a summer drink, that it begins to be greatly used, it is, 
 in fact, a powerful anfiscorbut c : end, as it by no means offends 
 the weakest stomach, whatever may be its effect on the palate, it is 
 highly entitled to our attention. In situations where the green shoots 
 and tops, &c. are easily obtained, it may be brewed immediately 
 from them, instead of from the extract; which, however, is by no 
 means to be commonly effected in England, where these trees are 
 not remarkably numerous, and are always private property. The 
 regular method of brewing spruce beer, as it is at present in the 
 best manner prepared, and so highly admired for its excessive brisk- 
 ness, is as follows : — Pour eight gallons of cold water into a barrel : 
 a. id then, boiling eight gallons more, put that in also ; to this, add 
 twelve pounds of molasses, with about half a pound of the essence 
 of spruce ; and, on its getting a little cooler, half a pint of good ale 
 yeast. The whole being well stirred, or rolled in the barrel, must 
 be left with the bung out for two or three days ; after which, the 
 liquor may be immediately bottled, well corked up, and packed in 
 saw-dust or sand, when it will be ripe and ht for drink in a fortnight. 
 Jf spruce beer be made immediately from the branches or cones, 
 they are required to be boiled for two hours ; after which, the liquor 
 is to be strained into a barrel, the molasses and yeast are to be added 
 to the extract, and to be in all respects treated after the same man- 
 ner. Spruce beer is best bottled in stone ; and, from its volatile 
 nature, the whole should be immediately drank when the bottle is 
 once opened. 
 
 Blackman's celebrated Oil Colour Cakes for Jlrtists. 
 
 The following is the process, as described in the transactions 
 of the Society of Arts : — Take four ounces of the clearest gum mas- 
 rich, and a pint of spirits of turpentine ; mix (hem together in a bottle, 
 stirring them frequently till the mastieh be dissolved. Where 
 haste is required, some heat may be applied, but the solution is bet- 
 ter when made cold. Let the colours be the best which can be 
 procured ; taking care that, by washing, &c. they are brought to the 
 greatest possible degree of fineness. When the colours are dry, 
 grind them on a hard close stone, for which purpose porphyry is 
 best, in spirits of turpentine, adding a small quantity of the mastieh 
 varnish. Let the colours so ground become again dry ; then pre- 
 
54 
 
 THE NEW FAMILY 
 
 pare, in the following manner, the composition for forming them into 
 cakes : procure some of the purest and whitest spermaceti ; melt it, 
 in a clean earthen vessel, over a gentle fire ; and, when fluid, add- 
 ing one third its weight of pure poppy oil, stir the whole well to- 
 gether. These things being in readiness, place over a frame or 
 support the stone on which the colours were ground, with a charcoal 
 fire to warm it beneath. This done, grind the colour fine with a 
 muller, on the warm stone ; after which, adding a sufficient quantity 
 of the mixture of poppy oil and spermaceti, work the whole to- 
 gether with a muller to the proper consistence. Lastlv, taking a 
 piece of the fit size for the cake intended to be made, roll it into a 
 ball, put it into a mould and press it, when the process will be com- 
 plete. These cakes, on being wanted for use, must be rubbed down 
 in poppy or other oil, or in a mixture of spirits of turpentine and oil, 
 as may best suit the convenience or intention of the artist. 
 
 A curious and useful Glue. 
 
 Take an ounce of isinglass, beat it to shreds, and put it into a 
 pint of brandy ; when gradually dissolved, which it soon is with a 
 gentle heat, strain the solution through a piece of fine muslin, and 
 the glue will be obtained, which is to be kept in a glass closely stop 
 ped. On being dissolved, in a moderate heat, it is thin, transparent, 
 and almost limpid. When used in the manner of common glue, it 
 joins together the parts of wood stronger than the wood itself is 
 united : so that the pieces thus joined will break in any other part 
 sooner than where they are glued together. It is also remarkable, 
 that, if saw-dust, or powdered wood, be made into a ball with this 
 glue, the ball will prove solid and elastic ; so that it may be turned 
 and used as a bowl, without breaking. As the glue thus made with 
 brandy will keep long w ithout corrupting, it is by no means an im- 
 proper form to preserve isinglass ready dissolved, for fining wines 
 and other purposes. Another use of this curious glue is, that of its 
 serving excellently for taking off impressions of medals or coins : 
 thus, if a little of it, when melted, be poured thinly on a new guinea, 
 &c. so as to cover the whole surface of the piece, and suffered so to 
 remain a day or two, till it become thoroughly dry, it will appear hard 
 and transparent, like a piece of Muscovy glass, with the impression 
 of the guinea in intaglio, as it is denominated, on one side, and in 
 relievo on the other. This glue dries into a very strong, tough, and 
 transparent substance ; not easily damaged by any thing but equeous 
 moisture, w'hich would soon dissolve it. This last reason renders it 
 unfit for any use where it would be much exposed to wet or damp 
 air. Common glue, dissolved with linseed oil, is admirably calcu- 
 lated to stand the weather ; a secret little known by those who would 
 be most benefited by its adoption. 
 
 .Xorfolk Milk Punch. 
 
 Steep the thin parings of seven lemons, and as many Seville 
 oranges, in a pint of brandy, for three days. Then squeeze all the 
 juice of these oranges and lemons into the brandy ; and add three 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK. 
 
 .)■) 
 
 pints of rum, three pints more of brandy, and six pints of water. 
 Grate a nutmeg into two quarts of milk ; and, having made it boil- 
 ing hot, pour it into the above ingredients, carefully keeping the 
 whole well stirred till completely mixed ; then add two pounds of 
 fine loaf sugar, which must also be well stirred. Let the punch thus 
 made stand twelve hours, then strain it through a flannel bag till it 
 appear perfectly bright. It may, probably, require to be three or 
 four times strained, according to the fineness or coarseness of the 
 sugar, and other circumstances. When quite clear, this charming 
 liquor is immediately fit to drink ; or will keep, if bottled, any length 
 of time, and in all climates. 
 
 Art of making the Curious Sympathetic Ink. 
 
 This curious ink has been long known in the world ; but the man- 
 ner of preparing it, and means of procuring the materials, as describ- 
 ed in various chemical books, rendered the task too discouraging to 
 be often attempted. By the following easy method, however, it is 
 readily accomplishable : — Take an ounce and a half of zaffre, which 
 may be obtained at any colour-shop, and put it into a glass vessel 
 with a narrow and long neck, pouring over it an ounce measure of 
 strong nitrous acid, diluted with five times the quantity of water. 
 Keep it in a warm situation, but not too hot, for about ten or twelve 
 hours, and then decant the clearest part of the liquor. Having so 
 done, pour nearly as much more diluted nitrous acid on the remain- 
 der : which is to continue in the same situation, and for as long a time 
 as before, and then be decanted and mixed with what was obtained 
 by the first operation. This being done, dissolve in it two ounces of 
 common salt, and the sympathetic ink is completely made. The 
 property of this ink is, that the writing made with it, on common pa- 
 per, is legible only while the paper is hot and dry ; so that, by ex- 
 posing >t, alternately, to the ambient air, and to the heat of a fire or 
 burning sun, whatever is written may be caused to appear and dis- 
 appear at pleasure. The universal knowledge of this secret rather 
 diminishes than increases the security of guilt in using it for any im- 
 proper purpose; since detection is certain, from the moment suspicion 
 takes place, by simply holding every letter or other doubtful paper to 
 the fire, or in the vparm rays of the sun. 
 
 Soft Sealing Wax, for Impressing Seals of Office , fyc. 
 
 This sealing wax, which is seldom used for any other purpose 
 than that of receiving the impressions of seals of office to charters, 
 patents, proceedings in chancery, &c. is prepared, when to be used 
 white, or rather uncoloured, by mixing half a pound of bees’ wax, an 
 ounce and a half of turpentine, and half an ounce of sweet oil ; and 
 carefully boiling them together, tnl the compound becomes of a fit 
 consistency for moulding into roils, cakes, or balls, for use. If colour 
 be wanted, it is readily obtained by stirring into the melted mass 
 about half an ounce of a proper pigment, as in making the red or 
 other coloured hard sealing wax. 
 
56 
 
 THE NEW FAMILY 
 
 Capital Sugar Vinegar. 
 
 This useful article of domestic economy might easily be made in 
 the poorest families : — To every quart of spring water put a quarter 
 of a pound of the coarsest sugar ; boil them together, and keep skim- 
 ming the liquor as long as any scum rises. After pouring it into a 
 tub or other vessel, let it stand till cool enough to work; and then 
 place in it a toast spread with yeast, of a size proportioned to the 
 quantity made. Let it ferment a day or two ; then beat the yeast 
 into it, put it into a cag or barrel with a piece of tile or slate over the 
 bung-hole, and place it in a situation where it mav best leceive the 
 heat of the sun. Make it in March, or the beginning of April, and 
 it will be (it for use in July or August. If not sour enough, which 
 can seldom happen when properly managed, let it stand a month 
 longer before it be bottled off. It may be kept in stone or glass bot- 
 tles. During the time of making, it must never be disturbed, after 
 the first week or ten days ; and though, in very fine weather, the 
 bung-hole would be best left open all day, as it might be fatal to 
 leave it open a single night, or exposed to any sudden rain, the great- 
 est caution wiil in that case be necessary. Previously to its being 
 bottled, it may be drawn off into a fresh cask; and, if it fill a large 
 barrel, a handful of shred isinglass may be thrown in, or less in pro- 
 portion to the quantity : this, after it has stood a few days, will ren- 
 der the vinegar fine, when it may be drawn off, or bottled, for use. 
 This sugar vinegar, though very strong, may be used in pickling for 
 sea-store or exportation, without being at all lowered ; but for pick- 
 les to be eaten in Kngland it will bear mixi ig with at least an equal 
 quantity of cold spring water. There are few pickles for which this 
 vinegar need ever be boiled. V\ ithout boiling, it w ill keep w ainuts very 
 finely, even for the East or West Indies ; but then, as remarked in 
 general of pickles for foreign use, it must be unrnixed with water. If 
 much vinegar be made, so as to require expensive casks, the out- 
 sides should always be painted, for the sake of preservng them from 
 the influence of the weather, during so many months of exposure to 
 sun and rain. 
 
 Excellent Embrocation for the Hooping-Cough. 
 
 All the dreadful consequences of the chin or hooping cough, 
 and its commonly tedious duration, may be obviated and shortened 
 by the following admirable remedy : — Mix well together half an 
 ounce each of spirit, of hartshorn and oil of amber ; with which plen- 
 tifully anoint the palms of the hands, the pit of the stomach, the soles 
 of the feet, the arm-pits, and the hack bone, every morning and even- 
 ing for a month, suffering no water to come near the parts thus an- 
 ointed, though the fingers and backs of the hands may be wiped with 
 a damp cloth. It should be rubbed in near the fire, and care naturally 
 used to prevent afterwards taking cold. It is best to make only the 
 above quantity at a time ; because, by frequently opening the bottle, 
 much of the virtue will be lost. It should, by rights, be kept in a 
 glass-stopper bottle. Indeed, the hartshorn is always thus kept by 
 
RECEIPT-BOOK. 
 
 57 
 
 the faculty ; and where it forms so large a part of the mixture, the 
 necessity of preventing its effluvia from escaping is equally great. 
 These precautions taken, and the other directions followed, its use 
 will seldom fail to be attended with the most complete success; 
 frequently in a much shorter time than it is judged prudent to ad- 
 vise its being continued, as it can never possibly do the smallest 
 injury even to the tenderest infants. 
 
 Speedy Cure for a Sprain. 
 
 Take a large spoonful of honey, the same quantity of salt, and 
 the white of an egg : beat the whole up together incessantly for 
 two hours; then let it stand an hour, and anoint the place sprained 
 with the oil which will be produced, keeping the part well rolled 
 with a good bandage. This is said generally to have enabled per- 
 sons with sprained ankles, frequently more tediously cured than 
 even a broken limb, and often leaving a perpetual weakness in the 
 joint, to walk in twenty-four hours, entirely free from pain. 
 
 Singular and simple manner of preserving Apples from the 
 effects of frost in North America. 
 
 Apples being produced almost abundantly in North America, 
 and forming an article of chief necessity in almost every family, the 
 greatest care is constantly taken to protect them from frost at 
 the earliest commencement of the winter season ; it being well 
 known, that apples, if left unprotected, are inevitably destroyed by 
 the first frost which occurs. This desirable object, during their 
 long and severe winters, is said to be completely effected, by only 
 throwing over them a thin linen cloth before the approach of frost, 
 when the fruit is never injured, how severe soever the winter may 
 happen to prove. Yet apples are there usually kept in a small 
 apartment, immediately beneath the roof of the house, which is par- 
 ticularly appropriated to that purpose, and where there is never any 
 fire. This is a fact so well known, that the Americans are astonish- 
 ed it should appear at all wonderful : and they have some reason to 
 be so, when it is considered that, throughout Germany, the same 
 method of preserving fruit is universally practised ; from whence 
 probably it made its way to North America. It appears that linen 
 cloth only is used for this purpose; woollen cloth, in particular, 
 having been experienced to prove ineffectual. There seems abun- 
 dant reason to believe, that even potatoes might be protected from 
 frost by some such simple expedient. This, also, like the preced- 
 ing article, to which the principle seems so very analogous, merits 
 high consideration ; and for the same important reason, its capa- 
 bility of conducing to the universal benefit of mankind, and the nu- 
 merous animals under our protection. 
 
 Cure for Chilblains. 
 
 If, before any inflammation take place, the feet or hands affected 
 are well washed morning and evening with hot water, or even with 
 cold water on going to bed, it will generally stop their progress j 
 
58 
 
 THE NEW FAMILY RECEIPT-BOOK. 
 
 especially if warm socks or gloves he constantly worn : but, when 
 they are actually inflamed, dip a four times folded rag into a mix- 
 ture composed of four ounces of spirits of wine and camphor, and 
 one ounce of \ enice treacle ; v\ inch must be tied ever\ night on the 
 chilblains till they quite disappear. Wiih these precautions, thev 
 will seldom or never be found to ulcerate; or, as it is commonly 
 called, to break : when tins happens, dissolve an ounce of common 
 turpentine nt the yolk of an egg, and mix it up into a balsam, with 
 halt an ounce of lamp black, or even soot, and a drachm of oil or 
 spirits of turpentine. Spread this balsam on a plegit of lint large 
 enough entirely to cover the ulcer, tie it on with warm cloths over 
 the part affected ; and renew the dressings every morning and 
 evening, wind) will sptehily effect a cure. Soft leather socks, if 
 worn before the first approach of winter, in October at farthest, and 
 never suffered to get wet or hard, "ill generally preserve from chil- 
 blains even those who are most subject to be troubled with them. 
 
 Delicate Cream Cheese. 
 
 Take to every quart of new milk a gill of cream, make the mix- 
 ture slightly warm, and put into it as little rennet as may be neces- 
 sary just to turn it. The curd being come, to use the language 
 of the dairy, lay a cloth on the vat or mould, which may be the bot- 
 tom of a sieve, but should be the exact size of the intended cheese ; 
 then, cutting out the curd with a skimming dish, fill up the mould, 
 turn the cloth over it, and leave it to drain. As the curd drams 
 and settles, keep filling in more with a gentle pressure, till all the 
 whey is out, and there is sufficient sub.-L.nce for the cheese. It 
 mu>t be then turned into a dry cloth, and pressed with a mod rate 
 weight, not exceeding two pounds. At night, it is to be turned into 
 a clean cloth ; and, the next morning, very slightly sprinkled with 
 fine salt : alter which, if sufficiently dry, it may be laid on a bed of 
 fresh nettle, strawberry, or ash leaves; coveied over with more; 
 and, being shifted and turned twice a day, having the leaves occa- 
 sionally renewed, will, in less than a fortnight, be sufficiently ripen- 
 ed for eating. If expedition he desirable, the maturity of the cheese 
 may be considerably hastened bv keepin-y it in a warm place, be- 
 tween two pewter dishes, and giving it a fresh bed and covering of 
 leaves every day. 
 
 
 
 IXS5EX TO 
 
 THE NEW FAMILY RECEIPT-BOOK. 
 
 Page 
 
 Herman method of Clarify- 
 ing and Preserving Fresh 
 Butter 3 
 
 Queen Elizabeth's Cordial 
 Electuary ib. 
 
 Genuine Friar’s Balsam 4 
 
 Page 
 
 Lozenges for the Heart-burn 4 
 
 Decoction for the Stone and 
 Gravel 5 
 
 Instant relief for a pain of the 
 Bowels ib. 
 
 The true Daffy’s Elixir ib. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 59 
 
 Infallible remedy for the Ague 
 Bayley’s Patent Cakes for 
 Liquid Blacking 
 Incomparable Fumigation, or 
 Vapour for a Sore Throat 
 To make Fine Red Ink 
 Method of Polishing Rusty 
 Steel 
 
 A tine Balsamic Elixir for 
 Coughs and Consumptions 
 Admiral Gascoigne’s Tinc- 
 ture of Rheubarb 
 German Cure for a Consump- 
 tion 
 
 Easy and effectual Cure for 
 Wens 
 
 Genuine Lozenges for the 
 Piles 
 
 Easy method of cleaning Pa- 
 per Hangings 
 
 Sir John Hill’s Specific for 
 the Scurvy 
 
 Russian method to preserve 
 Green Peas for Wintei 
 Vdmirable wash for the Hair 
 Fine Raspberry Vinegar 
 Genuine Turlington’s Balsam 
 Cephalic Snuff 
 An excellent and cheap Com- 
 oosition for Weather Board- 
 ing, Ac. 
 
 Incomparable Liquid for chang- 
 
 Page| 
 
 Salting 
 
 5 Permanent Red Ink for mark- 
 | ing Linen 
 
 6 Portable Balls for taking Out 
 
 Spots from Clothes 
 ib. Art of preparing a newly-dis- 
 
 7 covered Permanent Green 
 Pigment both for Oil and 
 
 ib. Water Colours 
 
 Stewed Oysters in French 
 ib. Rolls 
 
 Dr. Anderson’s admirable 
 ib. improvement of 
 Butter 
 
 8! Method of Fattening Chick- 
 ens 
 
 ib. Lord Orford’s curious me- 
 thod of feeding Carp in 
 ib. Ponds 
 
 Dr. Fuller’s Chemical Snuff 
 9 for the Head Ache, Palsy, 
 and Drowsy Distempers 
 ib. Speedy remedy for a Bruis- 
 ed Eye 
 
 ] 0 Stomach Plaster for a Cough 
 ib. j Oil of Brown Paper for Burns 
 ] 1 1 Liquid for removing Spots of 
 ib. Grease, Pitch, or Oil from 
 ib. J Cloth 
 
 To take out Ink Spots from 
 Woollen, Linen, and Silk 
 ib. 1 Ink Stains taken out of Ma- 
 hogany F urniture 
 
 Page 
 
 ing the Colour of the Hair 
 Dutch method of extracting 
 beautiful Colours from 
 Flowers 
 
 Excellent remedy for the 
 Dropsy 
 
 Another powerful remedy for 
 the Dropsy 
 
 Of the fining of Malt Liquors 
 To make Elderberry Beer 
 An easy method of Drying 
 Currants in Bunches 
 Dr. Stoughton’s celebrated 
 Stomachic Elixir 
 Cure for a Pimpled Face 
 Curious method of separating 
 Gold or Silver from Lace 
 
 X2lRed Mixture forgiving a fine 
 j Colour to Mahogany Fur- 
 j niture 
 
 ib. I Mr. Javne’s Patent method 
 j of preserving Eggs 
 ]3jChinese mode of rendering 
 j Cloth, and even Muslin, 
 ib. | Waterproof 
 ib. 1 Beautiful newly-discovered 
 1 4 j Golden Yellow Dye 
 
 | Curious method of Breeding 
 ib.! Gold and Silver Fish 
 Syrup of Red Cabbage, as 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 15 
 
 prepared in France 
 Boluses for the Rheumatism 
 and Contractions of the 
 Joints 
 
 15 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 16 
 
 ib. 
 
 17 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 IS 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 19 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 20 
 
 ib. 
 
 21 
 
 22 
 
60 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Page 
 
 Pill for an Aching Hollow 
 
 Tooth 22 
 
 Tea for the Gout ib. 
 
 Infallible Powder for Short- 
 ness of Breath ib. 
 
 Excellent Wash for Numbed 
 or Trembling Hands ib. 
 
 Mustard Whey for a Palsy 
 and Nervous Disorders 23 
 
 Ingenious French Liquid for 
 making Bulbous Roots 
 flower beautifully in the 
 Winter Season ib. 
 
 Art of Extracting the finest 
 Carmine Powder from 
 Clippings of Scarlet Cloth ib. 
 Substitute for Verdigris in 
 producing a fine Black 
 Dye without injury to 
 
 Cloth 24 
 
 Artificial Musk ib. 
 
 Wonderful, but easy and ef- 
 fectual method of render- 
 ing all sorts of Paper Fire- 
 proof ib. 
 
 Bellamy’s Patent methods of 
 making Leather of all 
 Sorts Waterproof 25 
 
 Genuine Receipt for making 
 the Invaluable Cordial Li- 
 quor called Vespetro, re- 
 commended by the king of 
 
 France’s Physicians ib. 
 
 Incomparable method of 
 Salting Meat, as adopted 
 by the late Empress of 
 Russia 26 
 
 Electuary for the Rheumatism ib. 
 Art of making the best Black 
 Ink Powder 27 
 
 Genuine Syrup for Coughs, 
 Spitting of Blood, &c. ib. 
 Vast advantages of Baking 
 instead of Boiling Beet- 
 Root ib. 
 
 Remedy for Wind inthe Veins 28 
 Best method of making Sage 
 Cheese ib. 
 
 ■Syrup of Ginger ib. 
 
 Page 
 
 Wonderful Power of the 
 Turkish Glue, with the Art 
 of making it ib. 
 
 Valuable Secret in preparing 
 Foil for Diamonds 29 
 
 [Easy method of Dying Cot- 
 ton with Madder ib. 
 
 Admirable Water for Thick- 
 ening the Hair, and to pre- 
 vent its falling off 30 
 
 Celebrated French Worm 
 Medicine for Dogs ib. 
 
 Use of the celebrated Ger- 
 man Tinder, and its great 
 Importance ib. 
 
 To make a Powder, by which 
 you may write with water 31 
 Turkish method of Filtering 
 Water by Ascension. ib. 
 
 Patent Machine for Purifying 
 the foulest water ib. 
 
 Management of Coffee in 
 F ranee 32 
 
 An invaluable Mixture, for 
 effectually destroying Bugs ib. 
 
 Grand Ptisan, or Diet Drink 
 of Health and Longevity, 
 by a celebrated French 
 Physician 33 
 
 Curious and simple manner of 
 keeping Apricots, Peaches, 
 Plums, &c. fresh all the 
 Year 34 
 
 Genuine Windsor Soap ib. 
 
 Art of Dying or Staining 
 Leather Gloves, to resem- 
 ble the beautiful York 
 Tan, Limerick Dye, &c. 35 
 
 Art of making Phosphoric 
 Tapers or Matches ib. 
 
 Easy method of making Phos- 
 phoric Bottles ib. 
 
 Specifications of Lord Wil- 
 liam Murray’s Patent for 
 extracting Starch from 
 Horse Chesnuts 36 
 
 Patent Potato Composition 
 to be used instead of Yeast ib. 
 Britannic Elastic Gum 37 
 
INDEX. 
 
 61 
 
 Page 
 
 West India Bitters, or Anti- 
 Bilious Drops 37 
 
 Oxymel of Garlic for Asth- 
 matic complaints, Rheu- 
 matism, Ac. ib. 
 
 Method of making Grape 
 Wines, fully equal to Cham- 
 paign and old Hock 
 Art of Extracting Spots of 
 Grease, fallow, Oil, &c. 
 from Valuable Books, 
 Prints, and Papers of all 
 sorts, without injury to the 
 Printing or Writing 
 Blaikie’s Patent Substitute 
 for Gum, in thickening Co- 
 lours for Calico Printers, 
 
 &c. 
 
 French method of making 
 Garlic V inegar 
 Fine Tarragon A inegar 
 Vinegar of Roses 
 Excellent Pdue Colour for 
 Ceilings, &c. 
 
 Composition for cleaning 
 Marble Hearths, Chimney 
 Pieces, Alabaster, &c. 
 
 Turkish Rouge ; or admir- 
 able Carmine 
 
 Page 
 
 Woollen, and Cotton Fur- 
 niture or Apparel, &e. 
 without injury to the Tex- 
 ture or Colour 48 
 
 Method of clearing Feathers 
 from their Animal Oil 49 
 
 ! Sebastian Grandi’s Restora- 
 88 tion or Discovery of the 
 
 old V enetian Art of prepar- 
 ing Grounds for Painting 
 on Pannels, Copper, or 
 Canvas, &c. 50 
 
 Method of Purifying the Oil 
 
 39 for mixing up Colours 51 
 
 Preparation of White, Brown, 
 
 Yellow, Red, Gray, and 
 Blue Black Colours, which 
 
 40 never change, and may 
 be used either in Oil or 
 
 ib. Water ib. 
 
 ib. I Superior Crayons of perma- 
 
 41 nent Colours, to be applied 
 
 either in Water or Oil ib. 
 
 ib. Preparation of White and Co- 
 loured Chalks 52 
 
 Syrup of Damask Roses ib. 
 
 ib. Syrup of Red Roses ib. 
 
 Excellent Spruce Beer 53 
 
 42 Blackman’s celebrated Oil 
 
 Purified Syrup of Molasses 43 Colour Cakes for Artists 
 Art of Preparing a fine Red A curious and useful G’lue 
 Lake from Dutch Madder ib. Norfolk Milk Punch 
 Clarified Goose Grease ib. Art of making the Curious 
 
 Composition for Restoring I Sympathetic Ink 
 
 Scorched Linen 44|Soft Sealing Wax, for Im- 
 
 Easy method to prevent Ba- j pressing Seals of Office, 
 con from becoming Rusty ib. J Ac. 
 
 Best Saxon Blue ib. (Capital Sugar Vinegar 
 
 Wonderful efficacy of Yeast Excellent Embrocation for 
 in the cure of Putrid Dis- the Hooping-Cough 
 
 eases 45 Speedy Cure for a Sprain 
 
 Admirable Cement, or Mor- (Singular and simple manner 
 t ar 47 j of preserving Apples from 
 
 Ancient British Liquor, call- j the effects of frost in 
 ed Bragget 48 j North America 
 
 Wonderful effect of Potato (Cure for Chilblains 
 Liquid, in cleaning Silk, iDelicate Cream Cheese 
 
 ib. 
 
 54 
 ib. 
 
 55 
 
 ib. 
 
 56 
 
 jb. 
 
 57 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 58 
 
INDEX 
 
 TO 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 SOUPS and BROTHS. 
 
 Soup Vermicelli 
 Do. white 
 A-la-Reine 
 Cressy 
 Transparent 
 Almond 
 
 Sante, or Oivy 
 and Bouille 
 Ox Cheek 
 Macaroni 
 Calf’s Head 
 Peas 
 
 White Peas 
 Green Peas 
 Onion 
 Milk 
 
 Milk, with Onions 
 Rice 
 
 Rice, or Potage du Ris 
 
 Scotch Barley Broth 
 
 Lorraine 
 
 Maigre 
 
 Giblet 
 
 Hodge Podge 
 Cow Heel 
 W'ite 
 Gravy 
 Spring 
 Hare 
 Partridge 
 Cray Fish 
 Eel 
 Oyster 
 Mutton Broth 
 Beef Broth 
 Beef Drink 
 No. 25. 
 
 Beef Broth to keep 28 
 
 Veal Broth ib. 
 
 Chicken Broth ib. 
 
 Spring Broth 29 
 
 Plum Porridge to keep ib. 
 
 Mock Turtle Soup ib. 
 
 Portable Soup 30 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Section 1. 
 
 BOILING MEAT. 
 
 To dress a Calf’s Head 33 
 
 Grass Lamb ib. 
 
 A Ham ib. 
 
 Do. another way ib. 
 
 Ham a-la-Braise 34 
 
 Tongues ib. 
 
 Neat’s Tongue ib. 
 
 Leg of Mutton ib. 
 
 Lamb’s Head 35 
 
 Do. another way ib. 
 
 Leg of Lamb 36 
 
 A Haunch, or Neck of Ve- 
 nison ib. 
 
 Pickled Pork ib. 
 
 Pig’s Pettitoes 37 
 
 Section 2. 
 
 BOILING POULTRY. 
 
 Turkeys 37 
 
 Chickens 38 
 
 Fowls 39 
 
 Rabbits and Ducks ib. 
 
 Pigeons 40 
 
 Geese ib. 
 
 Partridges ib. 
 
 Pheasants 41 
 
 Snipes or Woodcocks ib. 
 
 Page 
 12 
 
 13 
 ib 
 
 14 
 ib. 
 
 15 
 ib. 
 
 16 
 ib. 
 
 17 
 ib. 
 
 18 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 19 
 ib. 
 
 20 
 ib. 
 21 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 22 
 
 23 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 24 
 ib. 
 
 25 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 26 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 27 
 ib. 
 
 28 
 
 a 
 
ii 
 
 INDEX 
 
 .Section 3. 
 
 BOILIS C FISH. U 
 
 Turbot 
 
 Do. another way 
 T urbot en Maigre 
 Salmon 
 
 Do. whole for a large company 
 
 Cod’s Head 
 
 Whole Cod 
 
 Salt Cod 
 
 Cod Sounds 
 
 Soles 
 
 Trout 
 
 Pike 
 
 Carp 
 
 Mullets 
 
 Mackarel 
 
 Mackarel a-la-Bourgeoise 
 Herrings 
 
 Flounders, Plaice, Perch, and 
 Dabs 
 Eels 
 Sturgeon 
 Turtle 
 
 Court Bouillon 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 St 
 
 uOij-.e rouse 
 
 ib. 
 
 43 
 
 i I j uc ks 
 
 Page 
 
 60 
 
 ib. 
 
 jffecns 
 
 Larks 
 
 I Rabbits 
 
 j i> Section 3. 
 
 ib. . ROASTING GAME 
 44i Pheasants and Partridges 
 45; Woodcocks or Snipes 
 
 flares 
 
 V enison 
 
 Section 4. 
 ROASTING FISH. 
 To roast Sturgeon 
 Roasted en Gras 
 Lobsters 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 46 
 ib. 
 
 47 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 48 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 49 j 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 Section 1. 
 BAKING. 
 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT. 
 
 Rump of Beef a-la-Braise 
 'Calf’s Head 
 jPigs 
 
 |A Bullock’s or Calf’s Heart 
 
 ib. 
 
 62 
 
 63 
 ib. 
 
 64 
 
 64 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 bo- 
 
 ib. 
 
 65 
 
 ib 
 
 Section 1. 
 
 ROASTING IN GENERAL. 
 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT. 
 
 Beef 53 
 
 Mutton and Lamb ib. 
 
 Haunch of Mutton dressed like 
 Venison 54 
 
 A Fore-quarter of Lamb ib. 
 
 Tongues and Udders ib. 
 
 Veal ib. 
 
 Pork 55 
 
 Sucking Pigs 56 
 
 Calf’s Head 57 
 
 Ham, or Gammon of Bacon 58 
 
 Section 2. 
 
 ROASTING POULTRY. 
 
 Turkeys 58 
 
 Fowls 59 
 
 Chickens ib. 
 
 A een Geese 60 
 
 Section 2. 
 BAKING FISH. 
 
 Cod’s Head 
 
 67 
 
 Salmon 
 
 ib. 
 
 Carp 
 
 68 
 
 Eels and Lampreys 
 
 ib. 
 
 Herrings 
 
 69 
 
 Turbot 
 
 ib. 
 
 Pike, with forcemeat 
 
 70 
 
 Mackarel 
 
 ib. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 BROILING. 
 Section 1. 
 
 Beef Steaks 
 
 71 
 
 Mutton Steaks 
 
 72 
 
 Pork Chops 
 
 ib. 
 
 Ox Palates 
 
 ib. 
 
 Chickens 
 
 73 
 
 Pigeons 
 
 ib. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 in 
 
 Section 2. 
 BROILING FISH. 
 
 i 
 
 f 
 
 Page 
 
 resh Salmon 
 
 74 
 
 Aried Salmon 
 
 ib. 
 
 Cod 
 
 ib. 
 
 Crimped do. 
 
 75 
 
 Cod Sounds 
 
 ib. 
 
 Trout 
 
 ib. 
 
 Mackarel 
 
 76 
 
 a-la-Maitre d’ Hotel ib. 
 
 Haddocks and Whitings 
 
 ib. 
 
 Eels 
 
 77 
 
 pitch-cocked 
 
 ib. 
 
 Herrings 
 
 ib. 
 
 CHAPTER YI. 
 Section 1. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Section 1. 
 
 STEWING. 
 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT. 
 
 Page 
 
 Fillet of Yeal 86 
 
 Breast of Yeal ib. 
 
 Knuckle of Yeal ib. 
 
 Neck of Yeal 87 
 
 Calf’s Head ib. 
 
 Liver 88 
 
 Rump of Beef ib. 
 
 Beef Steaks ib. 
 
 Goblets ib. 
 
 Neat’s Tongue 89 
 
 To dress Ox Palates ib. 
 
 Ox Palates forced ib. 
 
 To Marinade Ox Palates 90 
 
 FRYING. 
 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT. 
 
 Yenison 
 
 Yeal Cutlets 
 
 Neck or Loin of Lamb 
 
 Sweetbreads 
 
 Calf’s Brains 
 
 Beef Steaks 
 
 Ox Tongues 
 
 Ox Feet, or Cow-Heel 
 
 Tripe 
 
 Sausages 
 
 Chickens 
 
 Artichoke Bottoms 
 
 Celery 
 
 Potatoes 
 
 Section 2. 
 
 frying fish. 
 
 Turbot 
 
 Carp 
 
 Tench 
 
 Soles 
 
 Smelts 
 
 Eels 
 
 Lampreys 
 
 Mullets 
 
 Herrings 
 
 Oysters 
 
 Section 2. 
 
 STEWING POULTRY. 
 
 78 
 ib. 
 
 79 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 80 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 81 1 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 82 
 
 82 
 
 83 
 ib. 
 
 84 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 85 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 Turkey en Pain 
 
 90 
 
 Fowls 
 
 ib. 
 
 Chickens 
 
 91 
 
 Goose Giblets 
 
 ib. 
 
 Ducks 
 
 ib. 
 
 with Green Peas 
 
 92 
 
 Pigeons 
 
 ib. 
 
 Pheasants 
 
 ib. 
 
 Partridges 
 
 93 
 
 Cucumbers 
 
 ib. 
 
 Peas and Lettuce 
 
 94 
 
 Section 3. 
 STEWING FISH. 
 Carp and Tench 
 Barbel 
 
 Small Barbel 
 
 Trout 
 
 Pike 
 
 A F ricandeau of Pike 
 Cod 
 
 Soles, Plaice, and Flounders 
 Lampreys and Eels 
 Prawns, Shrimps, and Cray- 
 Fish 
 Oysters 
 
 Scolloped 
 I Muscles 
 
 94 
 
 95 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 96 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 97 
 ib. 
 
iv 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 Section 1. 
 
 HASHING AND MINCING. 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT. 
 
 Page 
 
 Calf’s Head 98 
 
 Veal Minced 100 
 
 Mutton Hashed ib. 
 
 Section 2. 
 
 HASHING POULTRY AND 
 GAME. 
 
 Turkeys 100 
 
 another way 101 
 
 Fowls ib. 
 
 Chickens ib. 
 
 Partridges or Woodcocks ib. 
 Wild Ducks 102 
 
 Hares ib. 
 
 Hare Jugged ib. 
 
 Venison 103 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Section 1. 
 FRICASSEEING. 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT, POUL- 
 
 TRY, & c. 
 
 Neat’s Tongue 103 
 
 Sweetbreads White ib. 
 
 Calf’s Feet a-la-Carmagot 104 
 Tripe ib. 
 
 Chickens ib. 
 
 Rabbits White 105 
 
 Brown ib. 
 
 Section 2. 
 
 FRICASSEEING FISH , $c. 
 Cod Sounds 105 
 
 Soles 106 
 
 Eels ib. 
 
 Flounders 107' 
 
 Skate or Thornback ib. 
 
 Oysters 108 
 
 Eggs ib. 
 
 Eggs with Onions and Mush- 
 rooms ib. 
 
 Mushrooms ib. 
 
 Skirrits 109 
 
 Artichoke Bottoms ib. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Section 1. 
 
 R A G O OS. 
 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT. 
 
 Page 
 
 Breast of Veal 109 
 
 Neck of Veal 110 
 
 Sweetbreads Brown ib. 
 
 Calf’s Feet 111 
 
 Pig’s Feet and Ears ib. 
 
 Fore-quarter of House Lamb ib. 
 Beef 112 
 
 Mutton ib. 
 
 Section 2. 
 
 RAGOOS OF POULTRY VE- 
 
 GETABLES , Sfc. 
 
 A Goose 113 
 
 Livers of Poultry ib. 
 
 Oysters 114 
 
 Muscles ib. 
 
 Mushrooms 115 
 
 Artichoke Bottoms ib. 
 
 Asparagus ib. 
 
 Cucumbers 116 
 
 another way ib. 
 
 Cauliflowers ib. 
 
 French Beans ib. 
 
 Endive or Succory 117 
 
 Cabbage Force-Maigre 118 
 
 Asparagus forced in French 
 
 Rolls ib. 
 
 Peas Frangois ib. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 GRAVIES, CULLISES, AND 
 OTHER SAUCES. 
 
 Gravies 119 
 
 A very rich Gravy ib. 
 
 Brown Gravy 120 
 
 Sauce Italian ib. 
 
 Piquante ib. 
 
 A Cullis for all sorts of Ragoos 
 and rich Sauces 121 
 
 A Family Cullis ib. 
 
 A Wb** do. ib. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 A Cullis for Fish 122 
 
 Ham Sauce ib. 
 
 Essence of Ham 123 
 
 Sauce for Lamb ib. 
 
 Sauce for any kind of Roast 
 Meat ib. 
 
 A White Sauce ib. 
 
 Sauce for most kinds of Fish 124 
 Nonpareil ib. 
 
 Sauce a-la-Menehou ib. 
 
 Egg Sauce ib. 
 
 Bread Sauce ib. 
 
 Anchovy Sauce 125 
 
 Shrimp Sauce ib. 
 
 Oyster Sauce ib. 
 
 To melt Butter ib. 
 
 Caper Sauce 126 
 
 Shalot Sauce ib. 
 
 Lemon Sauce for boiled Fowls ib. 
 Gooseberry Sauce ib. 
 
 Fennel Sauce ib. 
 
 Mint Sauce ib. 
 
 A relishing Sauce ib. 
 
 To crisp Parsley ib. 
 
 Sauce for Wild Ducks, Teal, 
 
 &c. 127 
 
 Pontiff Sauce ib. 
 
 Aspic Sauce ib. 
 
 Forcemeat Balls ib. 
 
 Lemon Pickle 128 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 MADE DISHES. 
 
 Section 1. 
 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT. 
 Bombarded Yeal 128 
 
 Fricandeau of Yeal 129 
 
 Veal Olives ib. 
 
 Grenadines of Veal 130 
 
 Yeal Cutlets en Papilotes ib. 
 
 Porcupine of a Breast of Yeal ib. 
 Fricandeau ofVeal a-la-Bour- 
 geois 131 
 
 Calf’s Head Surprise ib. 
 
 Calf’s Pluck 132 
 
 Loin of Veal en Epigram ib. 
 
 Pillow of Yeal 133 
 
 Shoulder of Veal a-la-Pied- 
 montoise ib. 
 
 t 
 
 Pago 
 
 Sweetbreads of Veal a-la- 
 Dauphine 134 
 
 Sweetbreads en Gordineere ib. 
 Sweetbreads a-la-daub 135 
 
 Scotch Collops ib. 
 
 Beef Collops 136 
 
 Beef a-la-daub ib. 
 
 Beef Tremblent 137 
 
 Beef Kidneys a-la-Bourgeois ib. 
 Beef a-la-mode ib. 
 
 Beef a-la-Royal 138 
 
 Beef Olives ib. 
 
 Bouille Beef 139 
 
 Sirloin of Beef en Epigram ib. 
 The inside of a Sirloin of Beef 
 forced 140 
 
 A Round of Beef forced ib. 
 Beef Steaks rolled 141 
 
 Beef Rump en Matelotte ib. 
 Beef Escarlot 142 
 
 Tongue and Udder forced ib. 
 Tripe a-la-Kilkenny ib. 
 
 Harrico of Mutton ib. 
 
 Shoulder of Mutton surprised 143 
 To dress Umbles of Deer ib. 
 Mutton Kebobbed ib. 
 
 Leg of Mutton a-la-haut Gout 144 
 Leg of Mutton roasted with 
 Oysters ib. 
 
 Shoulder of Mutton en Epigram ib 
 Sheep’s Rumps and Kidneys ib. 
 Mutton Rumps a-la-Braise 145 
 Mutton Chops in Disguise ib. 
 A Shoulder of Mutton called 
 Hen and Chickens 146 
 
 A Quarter of Lamb forced ib. 
 Lamb’s Bits ib. 
 
 Lamb a-la-Bechamel 147 
 
 Lamb Chops en Casarole ib. 
 
 Barbae ued Pig ib. 
 
 A Pig au Pere Duillet 148 
 
 A Pig Matelotte 148 
 
 Sheep’s Trotters en Gratten 149 
 
 Section 2. 
 
 MADE DISHES OF POUL- 
 TRY ; $c. 
 
 Turkey a-la-daub 149 
 
 in a hurry 130 
 
INDEX. 
 
 
 Page- 
 
 
 Page 
 
 Fowls a-la-Braise 
 
 150(Broccoli 
 
 167 
 
 forced 
 
 151 
 
 Cauliflowers 
 
 168 
 
 marinaded 
 
 ib. 
 
 Green Peas 
 
 ib. 
 
 Chickens Chiringrate 
 
 ib.l 
 
 Windsor Beans 
 
 169 
 
 a-la-Braise 
 
 152; 
 
 j Kidney do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 in savoury J elly 
 
 153 
 
 Spinach 
 
 ib. 
 
 and Tongues 
 
 ih. J Cabbages 
 
 ib. 
 
 Pullets a-la-Sainte Menehout ib. {Turnips 
 
 170 
 
 Ducks a-la-Braise 
 
 1 54 J Carrots 
 
 ib. 
 
 a-la-Mode 
 
 ib. | Parsnips 
 
 ib. 
 
 a-la-Francoise 
 
 1551 Potatoes 
 
 ib. 
 
 A Goose a-la-Mode 
 
 ib. 
 
 Scolloped 
 
 171 
 
 marinaded 
 
 156, Hops 
 
 ib. 
 
 Pigeons Compote 
 
 ib- { 
 
 
 
 French Pupton of Pigeons 
 
 157| 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 
 Pigeons a- la-Braise 
 
 ib. j 
 
 
 
 au Poise 
 
 ib. | 
 
 Section 1. 
 
 < 
 
 
 Fricandeau of Pigeons 
 Pigeons a-la-Daub 
 a-la-Soussel 
 in a Hole 
 Jugged Pigeons 
 Partridges a-la-Braise 
 Pheasants a-la-Braise 
 Snipes or Woodcocks, in Sur- 
 tout 
 
 Snipes, with Purslain Leaves 
 Larks a-la-Francoise 
 Florendine Hares 
 Rabbits 
 Jugged Hare 
 Rabbits Surprised 
 Rabbits en Casserole 
 Macaroni 
 Amulets 
 
 of Asparagus 
 Oyster Loaves 
 Mushroom Loaves 
 Eggs in Surtout 
 and Broccoli 
 Spinach and Eggs 
 To make Ramekins 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 158 j BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 I Bread Pudding 
 ^ I Batter do. 
 
 V ’j Custard do. 
 
 ’•Quaking do. 
 
 iSago do. 
 
 1 *! Marrow do. 
 
 . (Biscuit do. 
 
 | Almond do. 
 
 A * Tansy do. 
 
 162 1 J .i 
 
 , : another way 
 
 Herb do. 
 
 A Spinach do. 
 j, * Cream do. 
 
 . A Hunting do. 
 
 .Ai Steak do. 
 
 !n Calf’s Foot do. 
 
 A b ‘i Prune do. 
 
 16b Plum do. 
 
 ! b ’ Hasty do. 
 
 ‘ Oatmeal do. 
 
 ! b - Suet do. 
 
 ’ *! Teal Suet do. 
 
 . jCabbage do. 
 
 1 jA Spoonful do. 
 
 White Puddings in Skins 
 Apple do. 
 
 A t* i: 
 
 Apple Dumplings 
 
 VEGETABLES AND ROOTS. Suet do. 
 Asparagus 167 Raspberry do. 
 
 A rtichokes ib. Yeast do. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 vii 
 
 Norfolk Dumplings 
 
 Page 
 
 180 
 
 Hard do. 
 
 181 
 
 Potato Pudding 
 
 ib. 
 
 Black do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Section 2. 
 
 BAKED PUDDINGS. 
 
 Vermicelli Pudding 
 
 182 
 
 Sweetmeat do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Orange do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Lemon do. 
 
 183 
 
 Almond do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Rice do. 
 
 184 
 
 Millet do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Oat do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Transparent do. 
 
 185 
 
 French Barley do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Lady Sunderland’s do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Citron do. 
 
 186 
 
 Chesnut do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Quince do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Cowslip do. 
 
 187 
 
 Cheese-curd do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Apple do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 New-Market do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 A Grateful do. 
 
 188 
 
 Carrot do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Yorkshire do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 CHAPTER XY. 
 
 Section 2. 
 
 
 PIES made of POULTRY 
 
 8 fC . 
 
 Page 
 
 A Plain Goose Pie 
 
 195 
 
 Duck do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Pigeon do. 
 
 196 
 
 Chicken do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 another way 
 
 ib. 
 
 Partridge do. 
 
 197 
 
 Hare do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Rabbit do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 another way 
 
 198 
 
 Fine Patties 
 
 ib. 
 
 To make any sort of Timbale 199 
 
 Section 3. 
 
 
 FRUIT PIES. 
 
 
 Apple Pie 
 
 199 
 
 Tart 
 
 200 
 
 Cherry Pie 
 
 ib. 
 
 Mince Pies 
 
 201 
 
 Another Method of making 
 
 
 Mince Pies 
 
 ib. 
 
 To make Mincemeat 
 
 202 
 
 Orange and Lemon Tarts 
 
 ib. 
 
 Tart de Moi 
 
 ib. 
 
 Artichoke Pie 
 
 203 
 
 Vermicelli do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Section 4. 
 FISH PIES. 
 
 Section 1. 
 
 PIES. 
 
 MEAT PIES. 
 
 -Beef Steak Pie 190 
 
 Mutton do. ib. 
 
 A Mutton Pie a-la-Perigord 191 
 Yeal do. ib. 
 
 A Rich Veal do. ib. 
 
 Lamb or Veal do. in high taste ib. 
 
 Venison Pasty 
 
 192 
 
 Olive Pie 
 
 ib. 
 
 Calf’s Head do. 
 
 193 
 
 Feet do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Sweetbread do. 
 
 194 
 
 jChesmre Pork do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Devonshire Squab do 
 
 ib. 
 
 Eel Pie 
 
 203 
 
 Turbot do. 
 
 204 
 
 Sole do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Flounder do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Carp do. 
 
 205 
 
 Tench do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Trout do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Salmon do. 
 
 206 
 
 Herring do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Lobster do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 PANCAKES and FRITTERS. 
 
 Pancakes 207 
 
 Cream Pancakes ib. 
 
 Rice do. ib. 
 
INDEX, 
 
 viii 
 
 
 Page 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 Pago 
 
 PintC-coioured Pancakes 
 
 208 Fine Cheesecakes 
 
 219 
 
 Clary do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Bread Cheesecakes 
 
 220 
 
 Plain Fritters 
 
 ib. 
 
 Rice Cheesecakes 
 
 ib. 
 
 Apple Flitters 
 
 209 
 
 Almond Cheesecakes 
 
 ib. 
 
 Water Fritters 
 
 ib. 
 
 Do. another way 
 
 ib. 
 
 White Flitters 
 
 ib. 
 
 Lemon Cheesecakes 
 
 221 
 
 Hasty Fritters 
 
 ib. 
 
 Citron Cheesecakes 
 
 ib. 
 
 Fritters Royal 
 Tansy Fritters 
 
 210 
 
 ib. 
 
 Section 2. 
 
 
 Rice do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 CUSTARDS 
 
 
 Chicken do. 
 
 j Plain Custards 
 
 221 
 
 Bilboquet do. 
 Orange do. 
 
 ! D * i Do. another way 
 1 ' Baked Custards 
 
 222 
 
 ib. 
 
 Strawberry do. 
 
 Rice Custards 
 
 ib. 
 
 Do. another way 
 
 * Almond Custards 
 
 ib. 
 
 Raspberry Fritters 
 
 Lemon Custards 
 
 ib 
 
 Currant do. 
 German do. 
 
 ' Orange Custards 
 
 2* 1 o 
 
 223 
 
 Almond Fraze 
 
 ib. 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 CAKES, BISCUITS, 
 
 $c. 
 
 Section 1. 
 
 A Common Cake 
 
 224 
 
 TARTS AND PUFFS. 
 
 A rich Seed Cake 
 
 ib. 
 
 Raspberry Tart 
 
 214 A Pound Cake plain 
 
 ib. 
 
 Green Almond Tart 
 
 ib. ! Cream Cakes 
 
 ib. 
 
 Angelica Tarts 
 
 215 Wedding or Christening Cake 225 
 
 Rhubarb Tarts 
 
 ib. Rice Cakes 
 
 ib. 
 
 Spinach Tarts 
 
 ib. Gingerbread Cakes 
 
 ib. 
 
 Petit Patties 
 
 216 Bath Cakes or Buns 
 
 226 
 
 Orange Tarts 
 
 ib. Shrewsbury Cakes 
 
 ib. 
 
 Chocolate Tarts 
 
 ib. Portugal Cakes 
 
 ib. 
 
 
 Saffron Cakes 
 
 ib. 
 
 Section 2. 
 
 Prussian Cakes 
 
 227 
 
 RUFFS, Sfc. 
 
 Queen Cakes 
 
 ib. 
 
 Sugar Puffs 
 
 217 Almond Cakes 
 
 ib. 
 
 Lemon Puffs 
 
 ib. Little Plum Cakes 
 
 228 
 
 Almond Puffs 
 
 ib. Ratifia Cakes 
 
 ib. 
 
 Chocolate Puffs 
 
 ib. Apricot Cakes 
 
 ib. 
 
 Curd Puffs 
 
 218 Orange Cakes 
 
 229 
 
 Wafers 
 
 ib. Lemon Cakes 
 
 ib. 
 
 
 Currant Cakes 
 
 ib. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Whigs 
 
 230 
 
 Cl i 
 
 Common Biscuits 
 
 ib. 
 
 Section 1. 
 
 iSponge Biscuits 
 
 ib. 
 
 CHEESECAKES AND CUS- i Spanish Biscuits 
 
 ib. 
 
 TARDS. 
 
 ! Drop Biscuits 
 
 231 
 
 Cheesecakes 
 
 218jLemon Biscuits 
 
 ib. 
 
 Common Cheesecakes 
 
 219lMacaroons 
 
 ib. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 tx 
 
 
 Page 
 
 1 
 
 Page 
 
 Green Caps 
 
 231 
 
 1 Various Fruit, Custard Ices, 
 
 Black Caps 
 
 232 
 
 ! &C. 
 
 241 
 
 Snow Balls 
 
 ib. 
 
 Raspberry Jam 
 
 242 
 
 
 
 Strawberry do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 
 
 Apricot do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 
 Gooseberry do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 
 
 Black Currant do. 
 
 243 
 
 Section 1. 
 
 
 Iceings for Cakes or various 
 
 THE ART OF CONFEC- 
 
 Articles in Confectionary 
 
 ib. 
 
 TIONARY. 
 
 
 Do. another way 
 
 ib. 
 
 The Method of preparing Su 
 
 - 
 
 Section 3. 
 
 
 gars and Colours 
 
 233 
 
 
 
 Smooth or Candy Sugar 
 
 ib. 
 
 JELLIES and SYLLABUBS . 
 
 Bloom Sugar 
 
 ib. 
 
 Calf’s Feet Jelly 
 
 243 
 
 Feathered do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Hartshorn do. 
 
 244 
 
 Crackled do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Orange do. 
 
 245 
 
 Carmel do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Blanc Mange 
 
 ib. 
 
 Red Colour do. 
 
 235 1 Jaunmange 
 
 246 
 
 Blue do. 
 
 ib. I Black Currant Jelly 
 
 ib. 
 
 Yellow do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 (Riband do. 
 
 247 
 
 Green do 
 
 ib. 
 
 Savoury do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Devices in Sugar 
 
 ib. 1 Common Syllabubs 
 
 24S 
 
 Sugar of Roses in various fi- 
 
 
 ! Whipt, do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 gures 
 
 236 Solid do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 
 
 Lemon do. 
 
 ii. 
 
 Section 2. 
 
 
 Everlasting do. 
 
 249 
 
 CREAMS AND JAMS 
 
 ' 
 
 • 1 
 
 A Hedgehog 
 
 ib. 
 
 
 
 Flummery 
 
 250 
 
 Orange Cream 
 
 236 French do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Lemon do. 
 
 ib. Green Melon in Flurhmery 
 
 251 
 
 Hartshorn do. 
 
 237 
 
 Solomon’s Temple in do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Burnt do. 
 
 ib, 
 
 
 
 another way 
 
 ib. 
 
 Section 4. 
 
 
 Blanched do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 
 
 Cream a-la-Franchipane 
 
 23S 
 
 PRESERVING FRUIT, 8fc. 
 
 Whipt Cream 
 
 ib. 
 
 Apricots 
 
 252 
 
 Spanish do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Peaches 
 
 ib. 
 
 Steeple do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Quinces 
 
 253 
 
 Barley do. 
 
 239 
 
 Barberries 
 
 ib. 
 
 Pistachio do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Pine Apples 
 
 254 
 
 Tea do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Grapes 
 
 ib. 
 
 Coffee do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Morello Cherries 
 
 255 
 
 Chocolate do. 
 
 240 j Green Codlins 
 
 ib. 
 
 another way 
 
 ib. 
 
 Golden Pippins 
 
 ib. 
 
 Pompadour do. 
 
 ib. 1 
 
 Green-Gage Plums 
 
 256 
 
 Ratifia do. 
 
 ib. 1 
 
 Oranges 
 
 ib. 
 
 Raspberry do. 
 
 241 : 
 
 Raspberries 
 
 257 
 
 Ice do. 
 
 ib. i 
 
 Strawberries 
 
 ib. 
 
 No. 25. 
 
 b 
 
 
 
X 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Currants in Bunches 
 
 Page] 
 
 258! 
 
 Gooseberries 
 
 259 
 
 Do. in imitation of Hops 
 
 ib. 
 
 Damsons 
 
 260 
 
 Walnuts 
 
 261 
 
 Cucumbers 
 
 262 
 
 Section 5. 
 
 DRYING AND CANDYING. 
 
 Dried Apricots 
 
 263 
 
 Peaches 
 
 ib. 
 
 Candied Angelica 
 
 264 
 
 Green- Gage Plums dried 
 
 ib. 
 
 Dried Cherries 
 
 ib. 
 
 Damsons 
 
 265 
 
 Candied Cassia 
 
 ib. 
 
 Lemon and Orange Peels 
 
 Candied 
 
 ib. 
 
 Candied Ginger 
 
 ib. 
 
 Horehound 
 
 266 
 
 Almond Cake, or 
 
 Gateau Noga 
 
 ib. 
 
 Candied Rhubarb Cakes 
 
 ib. 
 
 Compote of Crude Orange 
 
 267 
 
 of Apples 
 
 ib. 
 
 of Pears 
 
 ib. 
 
 of Quinces 
 
 ib. 
 
 Orange Chips 
 
 ib. 
 
 Marmalade 
 
 268 
 
 Apricot do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Quince do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Transparent do. 
 
 269 
 
 Burnt Almonds 
 
 ib. 
 
 Raspberry Paste 
 
 ib. 
 
 Currant do. 
 
 270 
 
 Gooseberry do. 
 
 ib. 
 
 Section 6. 
 
 ORNAMENTS IN CONFEC- 
 
 TIONARY. 
 
 ARTIFICIAL FRUIT, 
 
 A Dish of Snow 
 
 271 
 
 Moonshine 
 
 ib. 
 
 Floating Island 
 
 272 
 
 Desert Island 
 
 273 
 
 Chinese Temple 
 
 ib. 
 
 CHAPTER XXI 
 
 
 PICKLING. 
 
 
 
 Page 
 
 Mangoes 
 
 274 
 
 Girkins 
 
 275 
 
 Cucumbers 
 
 276 
 
 in Slices 
 
 ib. 
 
 To keep Cucumbers 
 
 277 
 
 Walnuts 
 
 ib. 
 
 Red Cabbage 
 
 2S0 
 
 Onions 
 
 ib. 
 
 Kidney, or French Beans 
 
 281 
 
 Barberries 
 
 ib. 
 
 Beet Roots 
 
 282 
 
 Radish Pods 
 
 ib. 
 
 Cauliflowers 
 
 ib. 
 
 Artichokes 
 
 283 
 
 Nasturtiums 
 
 ib. 
 
 Mushrooms 
 
 ib. 
 
 Mushroom Catsup 
 
 284 
 
 Powder 
 
 ib. 
 
 Walnut Catsup 
 
 ib. 
 
 Indian Pickle 
 
 285 
 
 Asparagus 
 
 ib. 
 
 Parsley Pickled Green 
 
 286 
 
 Peaches 
 
 ib. 
 
 Golden Pippins 
 
 287 
 
 Grapes 
 
 ib. 
 
 Red Currants 
 
 288 
 
 Caveach or Pickled Mackarel ib. 
 
 Smelts 
 
 289 
 
 Oysters 
 
 ib. 
 
 Anchovies 
 
 290 
 
 Ox Palates 
 
 ib. 
 
 CHAPTER XXH. 
 
 
 COLLARING. 
 
 
 VENISON, 
 
 
 Breast of Veal 
 
 292 
 
 Breast of Mutton 
 
 ib. 
 
 Beef 
 
 293 
 
 Calf’s Head 
 
 294 
 
 Pig 
 
 ib. 
 
 Eels 
 
 295 
 
 Mackarel 
 
 ib. 
 
 Salmon 
 
 ib 
 
INDEX. 
 
 xi 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 Section 1. 
 
 Orange Posset 
 
 POTTING MEAT and POra-l^wncTaffle 
 
 Page j-^hite Wine Whey 
 
 TRY. 
 
 Yenison 
 Hares 
 
 Marble Yeal 
 Tongues 
 Geese and Fowls 
 Beef 
 Pigeons 
 Woodcocks 
 
 296 i Water Gruel 
 297 j Barley Gruel 
 ib. : Orgeat Paste 
 lb. 
 
 298 
 
 ib. 
 
 299 
 
 Pago 
 
 312 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 313 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 CHAPTER XXYII. 
 
 MADE WINES, Sfc. 
 
 Section 2. 
 
 FISH . 
 
 Salmon 
 
 Lobster 
 
 301 
 
 CHAPTER XX1Y 
 
 CURING of various Kinds of 
 MEATS, #c. 
 
 Ilams 
 
 Do. various 
 Bacon 
 
 Mutton Hams 
 Beef do. 
 
 Neat’s Tongue 
 Hung Beef 
 Hunting do. 
 
 Pickled Pork 
 Mock Brawn 
 Turkey Soused 
 To make fine Sausages 
 Oxford Sausages 
 
 302 
 
 303 
 ib. 
 
 304 
 ib. 
 
 305 
 ib. 
 
 306 
 ib. 
 
 307 
 ib. 
 
 308 
 ib. 
 
 CHAPTER XXY. 
 To keep Green Peas till 
 
 Christmas 
 
 309 
 
 To keep Gooseberries 
 
 ib. 
 
 To keep Mushrooms 
 
 310 
 
 To bottle Damsons 
 
 ib. 
 
 CHAPTER XXYI. 
 
 
 POSSETS anrJ GRUELS. 
 
 Sack Possets 
 
 311 
 
 Wine Posset 
 
 312 
 
 .Vie Posset 
 
 ib. 
 
 Raisin Wine 
 
 314 
 
 An excellent Wine 
 
 ib. 
 
 Currant Wine 
 
 315 
 
 Gooseberry Wine 
 
 ib. 
 
 Mulberry Wine 
 
 316 
 
 Raspberry Wine 
 
 ib. 
 
 Damson Wine 
 
 ib. 
 
 Orange Wine 
 
 317 
 
 Lemon Wine 
 
 ib. 
 
 Grape Wine 
 
 318 
 
 Cherry Wine 
 
 ib. 
 
 Elder Wine 
 
 319 
 
 Apricot Wine 
 
 ib. 
 
 Quince Wine 
 
 ib. 
 
 Blackberry Wine 
 
 320 
 
 Turnip Wine 
 
 ib. 
 
 Birch Wine 
 
 321 
 
 Rose Wine 
 
 ib. 
 
 Ginger Wine 
 
 322 
 
 Balm Wine 
 
 ib. 
 
 Mead Wine 
 
 ib. 
 
 Raspberry Brandy 
 
 323 
 
 Orange Brandy 
 
 ib. 
 
 Lemon Brandy 
 
 324 
 
 Black Cherry Brandy 
 
 ib. 
 
 CHAPTER XXYIII. 
 CORDIAL WATERS. 
 Rose Water 
 Lavender Water 
 Peppermint Water 
 Surfeit Water 
 
 324 
 
 325 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 Section 1. 
 
 THE ART OF BREWING. 
 
 On the Copper, &c. 326 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Section 2. Page 
 
 Vessels for Brewing 327 
 
 Section 3. 
 
 The Mash-tub, Penstaff, &c. 329 
 
 Section 9. 
 
 Of Bottling Ma.t Liquors 
 To Preserve Yeast 
 
 Page 
 
 343 
 
 345 
 
 Section 4. 
 
 Of the proper time of Brew- 
 ing 
 
 Section 5. 
 
 Water proper for Brewing 
 Section 6. 
 
 The Quality of the Malt and 
 Hops 
 
 Section 7. 
 
 The process of Brewing 
 Section 8. 
 
 The proper Management of 
 Malt Lioi^H 
 
 331 
 
 332 
 
 334 
 
 336 
 
 341 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 DIRE C TIONS for TR US SING 
 
 POULTRY, 8fc. 
 
 
 Turkeys 
 
 346 
 
 Fowls 
 
 348 
 
 Chickens 
 
 ib. 
 
 Geese 
 
 349 
 
 Pigeons 
 
 ib. 
 
 Wild Fowl 
 
 350 
 
 Pheasants and Partridges 
 
 ib. 
 
 Woodcocks and Snipes 
 
 351 
 
 Larks 
 
 ib. 
 
 Hares 
 
 ib. 
 
 Rabbits 
 
 352 
 
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