NEW BRUNSWICK; .WITH ' fot iEmiflrantjs. COMPREHENDING THE EARLY HISTORY, AN ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS, SETTLE- MENT, TOPOGRAPHY, STATISTICS, COMMERCE, TIMBER, MANUFACTURES, AGRICULTURE, FISHERIES, GEOLOGY, NATURAL HISTORY, SOCIAL AND POLITICAL STATE, IMMIGRANTS, AND CONTEM- PLATED RAILWAYS OF THAT PROVINCE. BY ABRAHAM GESNER, ESQ. SURGEON ; FELLOW OF THE GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OP LONDOK ,* CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THE ROYAL GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF CORNWALL; MEMBER OF THE LITERARY AND HISTORICAL SOCIETY OF QUEBEC; CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THE ACADEMY OF NATURAL SCIENCES OF PHILADELPHIA; AUTHOR OF “remarks on THE GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY OF NOVA SCOTIA,” ETC. LONDON: SIMMONDS & WARD 6, BARGE YARD, BUCKLERSBURY. PREFACE. 1'he Author of the W^ork now submitted to the public was employed by the Government of New Brunswick five years in making a Geological Survey of that Province. During that period, he had the most favourable opportunities of making him- self acquainted with the climate, topography and resources of the country, and also with the habits and industry of its inha- bitants. His Geological Reports, published by the Provincial Legislature, were necessarily devoted to science, and to the description of the mineral wealth of the Province : the present Work embraces all the information acquired during the per- formance of the above public service, and will be found to con- tain, with a brief history, a full description of the Colony. No previous Work of the kind has ever appeared. New Brunswick formed a part of ancient Acadia, or Nova Scotia, until 1784, when it was made a separate Province; and in the general Histories of North America, it has not been noticed in a degree equal to its present importance and value as a part of Her Majesty’s Colonial Possessions. With but a very imperfect knowledge of the country, some writers have pronounced its climate to be rather unfavourable to the health of Europeans, its seasons too cold for vegetation, and its atmosphere involved in dense fogs. To correct these and similar errors is an object of much importance, and to lay VI PREFACE. before the British Public, for whom this Work is chiefly de- signed, a correct account of the Province, the resources of which offer a wide field for Emigration, and the advantageous employ- ment of British capital cannot fail to be useful to the country itself, and to the Empire of which it forms a part. The value and resources of the British North American Colo- nies are still imperfectly known : their vast extent, the variety of climate, and the almost unexplored forests, will constantly yield some new and valuable objects of enterprise to which the energies of the redundant population and dormant wealth of the Mother-country maybe applied, and thereby increase individual happiness and national prosperity. Many of the errors that have been committed in negotiations with Foreign States, and in establishing a system of Colonial policy, have arisen from an imperfect knowledge of the Pro- vinces. To extend sound information of all the Colonies is very desirable, and more especially is it so for New Brunswick, of which comparatively little is known on the opposite side of the Atlantic. Notwithstanding the inhabitants of Great Britain have ex- pended sums almost beyond computation in public improve- ments both at home and abroad, such is the elevated state of the nation, that she still abounds in wealth, and new sources of riches and prosperity are yearly unfolding themselves to her subjects. Accumulations of money have been to many the origin of uneasiness, and to discover how they may be safely employed has called forth the exercise of much ability and ingenuity. There can be no doubt that the Colonies offer the best and most productive field for the application of the inactive capital of the Parent-country, and also for her ovei-flowing population. Happily, the value of the British North American Colonies to the Empire is becoming more and more apparent ; nor can they be too highly estimated for affording strength and security to the nation, an outlet for her stagnant population and manu- PREFACE. Vll factures, or for supplying the elements of industry to millions of her subjects. With such views, the Author has been deeply impressed with the importance and responsibility of his task, which he has endeavoured to accomplish without bias or par- tiality. The topographical and other descriptions have been derived from personal observation ; and the remarks in reference to Emi- gration axe from the same source, and fiom experience in form- ing new Settlements. The materials for the early history of New Brunswick have been principally taken from Hackluyt, L’Escarbot, Charlevoi, the History of Massachusetts, and Hali- burtou’s History of Nova Scotia. The accounts of the first settlements of the English in the Province were involved in much obscurity ; the chapter on that subject was compiled from public documents, authentic narratives, and old manuscripts, a number of which were very kindly suppUed by James White, Esq., Sheriff of St. John. The works of Mr. M‘Gregor, Mr. Murray, and others, with the writings of Mr. Cooney and the Author of the Notitia of New Brunswick, have also been con- sulted. The tables that refer to the industry, commerce, and resources of the Province have been drawn from works of established authority, and the Journals of the Legislature ; and much pains have been taken to render them correct. The Author has to acknowledge very gratefully the obliga- tions he owes to the Hon. John S. Saunders, Provincial Secre- tary, and to the Hon. Thomas Bailey, Surveyor-General: to the latt.^r he is indebted for valuable information in reference to the quantity of Crown land contained in each county, and the regulations adopted for its disposal. His acknowledgments are likewise due to H. Bowyer Smith, Esq., Collector of H. M. Customs at John, and to Beverly Robinson, Esq., Provincial Treasurer, for their assistance in completing the tables ol the *vade and revenues of New Brunswick. An account of the pre- PREFACE. ^dii vailing diseases of St. John was supplied by Dr. Livingstone of that place : to him and other Gentlemen in New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, the Author presents his sincere thanks for the interest they have taken in this ^Vork. To exhibit the geography of the Province advantageously, a Map has been prepared that embraces Nova Scotia, Cape Bre- ton, Prince Edward’s Island, and part of Canada, and which also shows the line between New Brunswick and the United States as established by the late Treaty of Lord Ashburton. The scenery of the Province, and several subjects, are illustrated by very correct drawings, for which the Author expresses his best thanks to J. E. Woolford, Esq., of Fredericton. Comprehensive Notes for Emigrants have been introduced in the body and at the close of the Work, and such details have been given as will direct them in their settlement in the Pro- vince. In the topographical descriptions, pains have been taken to convey correct representations in regard to the nature of the climate, soil, fisheries, timber, minerals, sites for manufactures, and other physical resources. Neither Railways nor any other extensive public works have ever been introduced into New Brunswick, although the period has arrived when her population, trade, and industry call for increased facilities of overland transportation. Remarks on the contemplated Railway between Halifax and Quebec, and others, have been offered, and the Author’s views respecting the several Lines proposed are the result of actual observation of the coun- try they are intended to intersect. From the nature of the Work, the Chapters on the Geology and Natural History of the Province are necessarily brief. The former is condensed from the Author’s more voluminous Reports, and both are intended to be practically useful, rather than to appear as scientific descriptions. In 1783, the population of all the British Colonies in North America was only 193,000; in 1836, it was l,6ol,.500; by care- PREFACE. IX ful estimation, it is now 2,208,500. Their capital has been estimated at £75,000,000, and the public revenue at £1,250,000. The shipping tonnage exceeds 2,000,000 tons, which is manned by 150,000 seamen and fishermen. The amoimt of consumption of British manufactured goods is nearly £7,000,000 sterling per annum. Excepting the most northern parts of this vast terri- tory, which supply fish, timber, and furs, the climate, soil, and resources of the country are equal to those of Great Britain, and the Fisheries are the richest in the world. Now that the Atlantic is freely navigated by steam, to unite these Colonies by a line of Railway along the whole British frontier is an object of the highest national importance. Such a work would form a common bond of union between each of the Provinces and the Mother-country, and, in any emergency, supply ample means of defence against invasion. The loyalty and attachment of these Colonies to the Parent State is firmly estobhshed, and, by a wise system of national policy, it may be long maintained. If to this are added free communications and general improvements, England will be as firmly established on this side of the Atlantic as on the other, and no event under the infiuence of human agency can ever relax her foothold upon the Great Continent. CornwalVis, Nova Scotia, October, 1816. CHAPTER I. REMARKS ON BRITISH AMERICA. Extent and Boundaries. — Claims of the Americans. Physical Features of the Country.— Relics of Ancient Nations.— Aboriginal Inha- hitants. CHAPTER II. HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF NEW BRUNSWICK, AS FORMING A PART OF ANCIENT ACADIA. Discoveries of Cabot and Columbus. - Expeditions under Baron de Lery— Sir Humphrey Gilbert— Sir John Gilbert-Marquis de la Roche. De Monts visits Port Royal and the Bay of Fundy. Settlements captured by the English.— Sir William Alexander. Country ceded to France, conquered by the Inhabitants of New England. — Capture of Canada and Cape Breton — Restored.— Grants to La Tour. — Fortress on the St.John. — Contests between Charnissg and La Tour -Heroism, Capture, and Sufferings of Ma- dame de la Tour.— Indians of the Northern Coast.— French Settle- menU.— Disaffection of the French and Indians.— War.— Expulsion of the Acadians. — Capture of Louisburg by the Provincials.— Return of the Acadians.-Conquest of Quebec by General Wolfe.- Peace. XU CONTENTS. CHAPTER III. HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OP THE EARLY SETTLEMENTS OF NEW BRUNSWICK. P.1 Early French Settlements at Bay Chaleurs—Miramichi.— Fatal Ma- lady of the Colonists— Distress.— Victory of Capt. Byron.— Submis- sion of the Indian Chiefs. — Revolutionary War. — First English Settlement at St. John. — Maugerville. — Attacks of the Americans. -Disaffection of the Indians— Presents— Reconciliation— Peace.— The Landing of Loyalists.— New Brunswick made a separate Pro- vince — Administration. CHAPTER IV. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF NEW BRUNSWICK. Boundaries.— Area —Disputed Territory.— Claims of the Americans.— Border Diflaculties— Threatened War— Settlement of the Dispute. Canadian Boundary.— General Features. — Mountains— Lakes— Rivers— Cataracts — Ice-barriers — Marshes— Islands— Lagoons. . . CHAPTER V. NATIVE INDIANS OF NEW BRUNSWICK. Theories of Origin — Different Tribes — Physical Character — Customs — Powers of Endurance— Oratory— Dress — Wampum Belts — Hiero- glyphics — Wigwams — Canoes — Relics — Portages — Wars — Inter- course with Europeans fatal — Former Savage Character.— Indian Confederation— Villages— Pursuits— Anecdote— Languages. CHAPTER VI. TOPOGRAPHY OF NEW BRUNSWICK. Southern Counties. St. John. — Situation — Harbour. — City of St. John— Edifices— Public Institutions— Manufactures — Industry. Carlton. — Musquash. — Harbours. — Agricultural Character. — Tim- ber — Fisheries. County of Charlotte, — Towns — St. Andrew’s — St. Stephen’s. — Rivers — Harbours — Islands. — M ills — Lumbering — CONTENTS. Soil— Surface— Agriculture. County of Westmoreland.— ^iiyxaXxon —Area— Division of the County— Agriculture— Parishes— Rivers— Marshes — Exports — Minerals — Old Fortifications. King’s County. — Boundaries — Parishes — Villages — Settlements Streams Agri- culture— Lumbering— Successful Immigrants. Queen’s County.— Boundaries — Surface — Parishes — Rivers — Lakes — Fish — Soil Timber. — Gagetown — Scenery — Wild Lands — Immigrants. County of Sunbury. -mrst Settlement— Extent— Vernal Floods— Intervales — Agriculture — Losses by Fire. County of York. Parishes. — Fredericton, the Capital — Site — Public Buildings In- stitutions— Navigation.— Early Settlements— MiUtary Settlements — Land Company — Boistown — Soil — Agriculture — Lumbering. County of Corlton.— Situation— General Features—Mountains— Streams— Lakes— Woodstock— Villages — Military Stations— To- bique River— Aroostook River— American Boundary— Grand Falls — Salmon Fisheries — Madawasca— Acadian French — Impolitic Treaty — Soil — Agriculture— Lumbering. Northern Counties. County of JSTent.- Area -Parishes -Early Settlement.— Town of Liverpool — Harbour.— Rivers— Indians— Coal-field — Fisheries — Timber. County of Northumberland.— Boundaries— Area— Parishes.— Miramichi Bay—River.—Towns— Newcastle— Chatham— Douglastown—N elson.— Trade — Manufac- tures- Lumber-Ship-building-Great Fire-Destroyed Forests. County of Gloucester.— Surface — Parishes — Town of Bathurst— Rivers-Falls-Mining-Ship-building.-Pockmouche-Shippegan —Miscou.-Fisheries-Soil- Agriculture. County of Bestigouche. —Situation — Area —Parishes —Settlements— Coast Fisheries —Ri- vers - Mountains.- Towns- Dalhousie - Campbelltown.- Kempt Road-Indian Village-Gasp6-Great Roads-Bye Roads- Road- making— Bridge-building— Halifax and Quebec Railway, v. .. CHAPTER VII. agriculture. Climate-Soils-Alluviums-Marl-Lime-Peat-Forests-New Lands —Imperfect State of Agriculture— Agricultural Societies Produc- tions-Wheat-other Grains-Indian Corn-Grasses-Horticul^re -Floriculture-Mode of Clearing WiW Lands-Ashes-First Crop —Squatters— Forest Trees— New Settlements— Live Stock Maple Sugar.-Game- Hunting— Sporting. .. Historical Sketch of the Fisheries— Treaties with the French and Ame- ricans— Surrender of British Rights— Aggressions of the Americans —Advances of the Americans in 1845— Danger of having all the Fisheries surrendered — Remonstrance — Deep-sea Fishing — Coast Fishing— Boat Fishing— Offal— Jigging.— Fisheries of New Bruns- wick, their Value and Capabilities — Neglected — Abundance of Fish — Exports — Bounty. CHAPTER IX. COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY OF NEW BRUNSWICK. Colonial System — Colonial Protection — Timber Trade — Lumbering — The Forest— Kinds of Timber— Hard and Soft Woods— Lumbering Parties — Felling — Hewing — Forking — Drawing — Stream Driving — Rafting— Shipping— Saw Mills — Manufactures— Exports of Timber — Rocks and Minerals — Agricultural Produce — Ship-building — Shipping — Imports — Revenue — Banks — Insurance Companies CHAPTER X. POPULATION, AND RELIGIOUS, SOCIAL, AND POLITICAL STATE OF NEW BRUNSWICK. Population— Religion — Church of England — Roman Catholics — Pres- byterians — Methodists — Baptists — Free-will Baptists — Religious Enthusiasm — Education — King’s College — Seminaries — Grammar Schools — Sunday Schools— Temperance Societies — Social State — Customs and Manners — Fashions — Amusements — Acadian French — Government — Administration of Justice — Politics — Civil List .. 315 CONTENTS. XV CHAPTER XII. NATURAL HISTORY OF NEW BRUNSWICK. Mammalia — Birds — Reptiles — Fishes — Plants. NOTES FOR EMIGRANTS .. Page. .. 355 .. 369 NEW BRUNSWICK NOTICE. A Map of the Province was intended to have been given with the Work, but, owing to an accident to the Plate while in the hands of the Engraver, it could not be got ready in time, and it was thought impolitic to delay the publication to have a new Map engraved. At a period when the nations of Europe had greatly enriched them- selves by their industry and commerce, and the ambition of their sove- reigns could scarcely be gratified except by encroachments made upon the dominions of each other, the discovery of America was to them the discovery of a New World, and England, France, and Spain began to vie with each other in taking possession of and colonising the newly- found continent. The discovery of land in the Northern Hemisphere seemed like a new creation. The animals and plants, the climates, the oceans, seas, rivers, and lakes, were found to be different from those of civilised Europe. The heavens displayed new wonders to the astronomer, and a NEW BRUNS WICK. ' CHAPTER I. REMARKS ON BRITISH AMERICA, British America comprises a part of the vast continent situated be- tween the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The discovery of a number of the West India Islands was made by Columbus in 1492 ; but the great continent itself was unknown to Europeans until 1497, when it was visited by Cabot, a British navigator, while seeking a Western passage to India. Although Columbus was the first to discover land upon the coast of America, the name of the continent was given by Americas Vespucius, who succeeded the first Western navigator, and, by his address, obtained an honour which was justly due to his pre- decessor. At a period when the nations of Europe had greatly enriched them- selves by their industry and commerce, and the ambition of their sove- reigns could scarcely be gratified except by encroachments made upon the dominions of each other, the discovery of America was to them the discovery of a New World, and England, France, and Spain began to vie with each other in taking possession of and colonising the newly- found continent. The discovery of land in the Northern Hemisphere seemed like a new creation. The animals and plants, the climates, the oceans, seas, rivers, and lakes, were found to be different from those of civilised Europe. The heavens displayed new wonders to the astronomer, and B KEW BRUNSWICK. all nature presented itself under forms ^^ith which the early voyagers were unacquainted. Gold and silver had been brought from the mou^ tains ; while the size and strength of the timber, the ferUhty of he so , and the abundance of fish in the waters, filled the mmds of the adventurers with wonder and delight. ^ i j The whole of the immense continent, wherever it was exp ore , w found to be occupied by numerous tribes of human beings, 2 .he ilblh.n.e et Tb. of . nbe. .0 ^ soil had oeve. been dl.p.fed . b„. .he, «... new “ ^ ^ .lep by ...p, «n.ll .heir n»me. .nJ plhcs of .boa. ehoold oo«be,e 1» The weehery, ' ebori™... wne ....f^l by .be ...1, Coloo...., fore., eon., of .be a.,k... p.«.. i" .he bUloryof .be .orld . end ...hough .he,. «n.l releue of .he l.ndi of .hei. foref.fhen, Mid .hel. eW. u.K. - Itr luieug .hbee u.o„e».o«. e,en» pe™>..ed by P»..d.ne. to. the exuneiou of bun,.,, indue.,, »d l»ppi»»h .nd .he .™ God, i. » .he bounden duty of even, ....heed n.uo. .0 le».n .hei, peine, end » bring in., pe... «,d eouUin.n.... .he .»»».. of .be .ribee .he, h.ve diepoeenesed of .hei, "f2ud .1 • «h.n,, in .heyh.ve ....eyed .he p.».n of d.ee.ee and ”Th°."phrore“tai...ion had putvailed ««,.!, .b~ een.n.i.., b- «Jeh 2 d .ben, «e„ n.n,e,ou. eendieb. between Engi.nd » r„„ee2«.ri.o,„ wbiehench powe. e,«n. ” - e.n.e rime, Briu.h .nd ..he, E.n.pM,« en„g,M..e ^ILtie liad established themselves along an extensive n eoast until they gained a power that refused to be restrained by the laws ’and usages oT their forefathers. Revolt from the European G - laws an ag R-itish Colonists took up arms against vernments commenced. The British coionis j- the mother-country, and won their independence. Their examp been in,l».ib,ri.e i.h.bi..n.a of S™-. A„e,,e., wh^ the -nT rr.r.i:n:;r«tr^-"^ -- ”rie upon .be Bri.i.h Itb 22:::r;2rr.:“^2i.«o.,db...b.enif NEW BRUNSWICK. s such a revolution had not taken place ; for the great number of loyalists that removed from the revolted States to Canada, New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia, have been succeeded by a population that is firmly attached to the Crown and laws of the Empire, British America includes all that part of the Northern Continent which was not given up by treaty to the Republic of the United States at the close of the Revolutionary War, and also all the territory dis- covered and occupied by British subjects since that period. This region embraces more than one-third of the entire continent. It is bounded on the north by the Arctic Ocean, and extends westward to the 141st degree of longitude, where it meets the territory of Russia, as settled by treaty in 1825. Its northern limits approach nearly the 70th parallel of latitude, and all the islands in the Arctic Sea belong to England by right of discovery. The Atlantic Ocean forms its eastern limits, from the Straits of Fury and Hecla, in latitude 70® North, to the mouth of the St. Croix, in latitude 45® 5' North. The islands along the coast also belong to Great Britain. The southern boundary of this immense territory runs along an irregular line from the St. Croix to the St. Regis on the St. Lawrence, sixty miles above Montreal. From thence the river and the great chain of Canadian lakes separate the British from the American Possessions. From the head of Lake Superior, the line runs to the north-western angle of the Lake of the Woods, in latitude 49® 20" North, and thence across the continent to the Rocky Mountains, beyond which it has not been certainly determined. The British Possessions in North America are therefore situated between the parallels of 41® 47" and 78® North latitude, and between the 52nd and 141st of West longitude, and include an area of 4,000,000 square miles. They embrace the Provinces of Canada, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, the regions of Hudson's Bay and Labrador, and the Islands of Newfoundland, Cape Breton, Prince Edward's Island, and Anticosti.^ The claims of Great Britain to certain parts of this region have recently been disputed by the American Government. The contention * “ An Historical and Descriptive Account of British America,” by Hugh Murray, 3 vols. 16mo, Edinburgh 1839, vol. i. pp. 18, 19. B 2 ^ NKW BEUNSWICK. that existed with reference to a tract of wilderness country situated between New Brunswick and the State of Maine, and which was likely to result in a war between the two nations, was settled by treaty, throng the mediation of Lord Ashburton, at Washington, on the 9th of August, 1842. This subject will again be adverted to in another chapter. The claims of the Americans to a part of the Oregon Territory, situ- ated west of the Rocky Mountains, still remain unsettled ; and the longer they continue unadjusted, the greater will be the difficulties in establishing a boundary between the two nations. An example of this kind has been afforded in the delay of fixing the line between the State of Maine and the British Provinces, by which the Americans have gained a large tract of excellent land upon a comparatively recent claim. The climates of the northern parts of British America are too severe for agriculture, and vast tracts are buried beneath perpetual snows. These northern regions are nevertheless valuable for the furs they pro- duce, and the excellent fisheries along their coasts. In the southern districts of this great territory, the climates are mild and the soil fertile. Almost the entire surface of the earth is still covered with dense forests, which often reach to the tops of the mountains, and ex- hibit all their primeval features, except where fires have swept over the surface ; and even there, the soil is soon replenished with a new growth of forest trees. Along the coasts, rivers, and lakes, the hand of industry has cleared the timber from large tracts of the virgin soil ; and there are wide savannahs, prairies, and bogs, which produce chiefly the grasses, ferns, and sphagneous plants, that supply food for herds of elk, reindeer, and other wild animals still thriving unmolested in their native deserts. But these tracts are very limited in comparison with the immense dis- tricts still covered with wood of gigantic growth. On this wide area civilisation advances but slowly, and century after century will pass away before it will reach the limits of the productive soil.' The light bark-canoe of the Indian is the only vessel that navigates many a noble stream ; and, even in the Province of New Brunswick, steamboats of considerable burden may ply upon rivers, the shores of which have never been granted by the Government, but still display NEW BRUNSWICK. the wild and unchanged scenery of a country where the sounds of a European language are never heard, nor the soil disturbed by the labour of man. Although the mountains of North America are much inferior in alti- tude to those of the South, there is no part of the world where nature presents more sublime and beautiful scenery. The mighty St. Lawrence, with a chain of inland seas — the St. John, that nearly crosses the pen- insula between the Bay of Fundy and Quebec, and other rivers of the inhabited parts of British America, whether considered as channels of navigation or as objects of beauty, always call forth the admiration of strangers, and the scenery along their banks is peculiarly rich and im- posing. The Canadian lakes are the largest and deepest in the world. Lake Superior is 360 miles in length, 140 miles at its greatest breadth, and 1500 miles in circumference ; and it has been estimated by Capt. Bayfield, that its surface is 627 feet above the level of the Atlantic Ocean. The smallest lakes of the great chain are capable of affording space for the movements of large fleets; and, like the ocean, they are tossed into lofty waves, that never cease to roll upon their fertile borders. Then there is the great Cataract of Niagara, where the surplus waters of the great inland basins are poured over a stupendous precipice, pro- ducing a fall that far surpasses any other on the face of the globe. Next in magnitude is the great fall of the St. John, Ihe Falls of Montmorenci, near Quebec, and those of the Nepisiquit, in New Brunswick, although inferior in magnitude, are sublime and beautiful objects. The tides of the Bay of Fundy, which at one place rise no less than 78 feet, are also remarkable. The Grand Banks of New- foundland, which have evidently been produced by the gulf-stream that runs along the Atlantic coast, and affords the most extensive fishery ever known, may also be reckoned among the wonders of the New World. The accounts given by the native savages and early voyagers of the numerous and valuable productions of the country, and its great natural curiosities, were well calculated to infuse a spirit of enterprise in the European nations, who all seemed eager to reap the advantages offered by the discovery of a new continent. But the ambition of these powers NEW BRUNSWICK. soon precipitated them into wars, which greatly retarded the settlement of the new Colonies in America, and nearly exterminated the native in- habitants of the great continent. The Provinces of Upper and Lower Canada were recently united, and they now form a country whose pro- ductions and population exceed those of the maritime districts. They have long been the resort of emigrants from Great Britain, while the climate, soil, and resources of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia have been overlooked. The numerous valuable fisheries along the coast and in the hays have also been neglected, and left unprotected from foreign aggression. British America offers perfect relief to the overflowing population of the mother-country, whose manufacturing districts and most productive counties have become so overloaded with the humbler classes, that the least disturbance in the state of trade produces the greatest degree of misery and crime. To remove this monstrous burden from the culti- vated to the uncultivated parts of the British Empire, is a work of great national importance, and one that calls loudly for universal benevolence. The history of the aboriginal inhabitants of North America is in- volved in great obscurity. From tradition, relics, &c., some have sup- posed that the continent was originally peopled from the north-east ; but it is far more probable that it was first occupied by emigrants from Asia, from which America is only separated by the Straits of Bering. The relics of the North American Indians consist chiefly of axes, knives, arrow-heads, and pots made of stone. These are frequently found in their graves — it being the custom of many tribes to bury with the deceased the implements they had used in their lifetime. A far more interesting class of relics is seen in the tumuli, forts, walls, mounds, hearths, &c., found in North America. It is evident that the people who erected these works were far more civilised, and better acquainted with the arts, than any of the present Indian tribes. Those ancient works are found scattered over the great plains between the southern shore of Lake Erie and the Gulf of Mexico, and along the banks of the great rivers, which in ancient times appear to have had towns and cities along their borders. Many of these mounds and fortifications are now covered with a lofty growth of timber, and more tlian a thousand years are supposed to have elapsed since they were erected. Dried human bodies, resembling mummies, have also been found in tho caves of Kentucky ; and it is by no means improbable, that they were contemporaneous with the works of art found in the Western States. Si- milar relics are also discovered in Texas, New Mexico, and South Ame- rica; but it appears that the northern parts of the great continent were in- habited at a later date, for in them these relics of civilisation entirely disappear, and nothing is found that throws any light upon the history of America, except a few rude implements of the savages. The present work is intended to give an account of the Province of New Brunswick, from its first settlement up to the present time, and to make its resources better known. The Colony is one of great importance, with regard both to its intrinsic value and the stedfast loyalty of its inhabitants ; and to place it in its true light before the British public, will be the chief object of the following pages. CHAPTER II. HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF NEW BRUNSWICK AS FORMING A PART OF ANCIENT ACADIA. The Province of New Brunswick did not exist as a Colony previous to the American Revolution. The French had always conddered it a part of New France, or Acadia, and therefore its history is compre- hended in that of Nova Scotia until 1784, when it was formed into a separate Government. The histories of all new countries, or such as are inhabited by an uncivilised people, must necessarily be very limited, and, from the lack of written records, they can never extend beyond the tradition of the aborigines. From the continued perils and hardships the first settlers in the North American Provinces were compelled to endure, little pains were bestowed by them on the preservation of records which would have been highly useful and interesting to succeeding generations. That part of American history which is filled by an account of New Brunswick is comparatively small ; nevertheless, the following facts, collected from a variety of sources, will doubtless be of some interest. During the reign of Henry VII., John Cabot, a Venetian navigator, believed in the possibility of finding a western passage to India, and the discoveries previously made by Columbus had excited a spirit of enterprise favourable to an inquiry of so much importance to the East- ern World. Accordingly, on the 5th of March, 1496, His Majesty granted a commission to Cabot and his sons Sebastian, Lewis, and Sacnuis, with full authority under English colours to take possession of all the countries they might discover unknown to Christians. Two caravels and five ships were fitted out by the Western navigator and his friends. These vessels were supplied with articles of traffic NEW BRUNSWICK. 9 by the merchants of London and Bristol. With this little fleet and three hundred men, Cabot and his son Sebastian sailed from Bristol early in May 1497. While pursuing a western course in the hope of reaching the China Seas without being arrested in their progress, on the 24th of June they were surprised by the appearance of land. The land thus first discovered was evidently a part of Labrador, which they called Prima Vista. Galvanus* says that the land first dis- covered by Cabot was in latitude 45®; and as they coasted to the north- ward, they must have gone into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, in pursuit of the supposed Northern passage. During this part of their voyage, they discovered an island where they first became acquainted with the savages of America. This island they called St. John (now Prince Edward’s Island), whence they carried away ten of the natives to England.-f- They then sailed northward to latitude 67® 30"; but being disappointed in not finding the passage he was in quest of, Cabot altered his course, and steered to the south along the coast, to the land now called Florida. From these discoveries, and the actual settlement of two Englishmen by the name of Gilbert on the western side of the Bay of Fundy (now New Brunswick), in 1607, the English claimed America by right of dis- covery and possession. The discovery of the Western Continent was thus made five years before Columbus had extended his observations beyond the islands of the Gulf of Mexico. In consequence of the failing of his provisions, and a mutiny that broke out among his seamen, Cabot was compelled to return to England, where it appears the success of the voyage was not such as afforded any stimulus to other adven- turers. The French were the next to visit the new continent. In 1518, Baron • It was formerly supposed that Newfoundland was the first-discovered coast on the continent of America; but it appears from the relative positions of the different places named by historians, that the land in question was Labra- dor, and that the land opposite was Newfoundland, named St. John, and not Prince Edward’s Island, as some have believed. The white bears found at Labrador by the voyageiirs decide in favour of that place, as they do not exist on the islands farther south. t Haliburton's History of Nova Scotia, vol. i. page iv. 10 NEW BRUNSWICK. de Lery, a Frenchman, landed cattle at Isle du Sable, and made an attempt to open a settlement at Canseau ; but in this object he was unsuccessful. In 1525, Varrazzand, a Frenchman, and Gomez, a Spa- niard, coasted the shores from Newfoundland to Florida, and landed m Nova Scotia ; but they made no attempt to settle the country. In 1534, Jacques Cartier landed at Bay Chaleurs, and took possession of the country in the name of the King of France. It is probable that he and his people were the first Europeans who landed in that part of Acadia now called New Brunswick. Cartier fortified Cape Breton in 1541. It was not until 1579 that any attempt was made by the English to extend the discoveries of Cabot, or to establish a Colony in the Western World. In the above year, Queen Elizabeth granted to Sir Humphrey Gilbert a patent for discovering, occupying, and settling “ such remote heathen and barbarous countries as were not actually possessed by any Christian people.” Sir Humphrey lost one of his sliips in a storm imme- diately after she had put to sea, and after returning home his circum- stances were so much reduced that he was compelled to sell his estate. On the nth of June, 1583, he saded again from Plymouth with five ships and 250 men ; and on the 11th of July he arrived at Newfound- land, of wliich he took formal possession in behalf of the Crown of England. His commission was read at St. John’s before a number of merchants who had gone there to trade, and the masters of thirtj^-six vessels of different nations. Obedience was promised by the people, and a pillar was erected bearing an engraving of the Queen’s arms. Public worship was introduced according to the mode of the Established Church of England. A tax was levied on all the ships, and treasonable words were to be punished by the loss of ears and the confiscation of the property of the offender.* Sir Humphrey sailed from Newfoundland on the 20th of August, with three ships — the Delight, the Golden Hind, and the Squirrel. The Delight was wrecked on the Isle of Sable ; and the Squinel, which he commanded in person, foundered in a violent storm, and every soul on board perished. The unfortunate vessel was spoken at the time of • llahburlon, vol. i. page 7. new BRUNSWICK. her peril. Sir Humphrey was seen sitting with a book in his hand an e was heard to call out to his companions, “ We are as near heaven "" “'«”*> '«'■'< of hi> slip ol„“ " siT “t “"r iL"''' ™ ‘"o ocean. S r Humphrey G.lben »„ . „f „„„ • reng and stature. His appearance at once commanded esteem and venemtton He ™ celebrated for his genius and learning, eonrago d patnottsm. and Queen Elisabeth had honoured him by pecufc earned Hungnn.n whose Hcndsbip for the AdmM had induced him to undertake the voyage. Sir John Gilbert, the brother of Sir Humphrey, to whose title he succeeded, was the next to attempt the opening of a settlement on the North i^encan Continent. In 1607, by the aid of Sir John Popham, e fitted out a fieet, and arrived in safety at the mouth of the Sagada- hock or Kenebec nver, and spent a winter on a small island which con- ^ned only about eight acres. At this place the nobleman died, and his company, having suffered great distress, returned to England in the lollowmg year. In the mean time, the French were jealous spectators of the attempt made by the English to colonise the New World, and Cartier, Rober- val, and other Frenchmen visited Canada, thereby giving France a claim to the territory of the St. Lawrence. By the labours of these persons, a lucrative trade was opened with the natives, and the fisheries along the coast had attracted numbers of adventurers from the different na- tions of Europe. Under the protection of Henry IV. the Marquis de la Roche sailed rom France in 1598 with a number of convicts, whom he landed on the almost barren Isle of Sable, in the hope of making a settlement. He then proceeded to Nova Scotia; but having met with several dis- asters, he returned to France, leaving the miserable convicts on the island, where there was neither fresh water, fuel, nor a soil capable of producing anything but thorns and thistles. After these unfortunate people had been upon the island seven years, they were taken off by Hackluyt, vol. iii. p. 155-158. new BRUNSWICK. cL.,, »!.<, w . pilot to D, 1. number landed were found alive ; these were p< .„a eocu so.ivo, o,“" .n. o*o, rots ...ep ..oa t.o„ea auaog thoi. Tb. .«ly .ttoropu to cvMA Colony »^n ^ successful, and even calamitous ; yet the va --or.bot.il, ..a .be bop.., unexplored regions, excited c previous to the year 1609, obanb, «... .1.0 .piH. of (o.oll.. on.erp..- ”7 ..„.m.,...«.a sob.v.i.. is .«.a .0 :rj. L. 380., o, .bes. .00 : French and 50 English. The latter had command of the harbo Valukble furs were purchased from the savages for mere J the teeth of the sea-horse brought high prices in the European mar . The interesting accounts given by those who had visited the com . f!! also much influence over the minds of were represented as being alive with fish, the forests and otlmr animals with rich furs, and the rocks with gold, silver, an precious stones. All these circumstances combined, produce a spm Rivalry among the European Powers, and to create undue emulation and strife among their subjects. Monts under During the reign of Henry IV., a gentleman named De Monts, unde very favourable auspices, made another attempt at colonisation. He received from his Sovereign almost unlimited powers and privileges and every encouragement to pursue liis arduous undertaking. Monts had accompanied Chauvin up the St. Lawrence, and had made himself acquainted with a part of the Atlantic coast. His commission embraced all the territory from the 40th to the 46th degree North latitude, or from Hudson’s Bay to Virginia ; and he had a monopoly of the fur-trade over that vast tract of country, which was then called New France. The Colony was to be established at the expense of Huckluyt, vol. iii. p. 132. NEW BRUNSWICK. 13 individuals, who cheerfully devoted their money to the popular enter- prise. De Monts was a Protestant, and obtained permission for the free exercise of his religion in the country, on the condition of providing for Roman Catholic Missionaries for the conversion of natives. Four vessels were well equipped ; of these two were put unde/his immediate command— the other two were to be employed in protecting and extend- ing his trade. Accompanied by Champlain (an experienced pilot, and afterwards the founder of Quebec), Potrincourt, and a number of respect- able volunteers, De Monts sailed from IlavTe de Grace, and on the ICth of May, 1G04, arrived at Rosignol (now Liverpool), on the south side of Acadia. At this place he found one Rosignol, whose name the harbour had received, trading with the Indians without a licence. He immediately seized the vessel and goods of his countryman, and by them enabled himself to carry on the expedition, which otherwise would have failed.* He then sailed westerly about four leagues, to a harbour now called Port Mouton, where he disembarked and erected camps, or wigwams^ for the accommodation of his companions and seamen. At this place they remained some time, amusing themselves by hunting and fishing, being in daily expectation of receivmg supplies from one of the vessels. But Morel, the captain, had not discovered his instructions, which were fixed to a cross at Canseau, and he had been delayed in capturing four French vessels, which he found carrying on a contraband trade. The missing vessel was at last found by a party of the natives, despatched to Canseau for the purpose, and the wdnter supplies, under the care of Pontgrave, w^ere finally received. From thence De Monts sailed along the peninsula to the westward and northward, and anchored in the Bay of St. Mary. While he was surveying the shores of the bay, he discovered a vein of iron ore, and, as it is stated, a mineral containing silver. The vein of iron ore may still be seen ; but as no silver ore of any kind has ever been found by the inhabitants since, it is probable that the mineralogist of De Monts was mistaken, or deceived by the shining appearance of the specular * A large lake between Liverpool and Annapolis still bears the name of Rosignol. i NEW BRUNSWICK. iron still found on Digby Neck. At a certain landing-place in the bay, the whole party were much dismayed from the absence of oneDaubre, a highly-respectable clergyman, who on one of his excursions had lost his sword, and, while he was searching for it, lost himself. After every endeavour had been made to find the absent priest, but to no avail, he was unavoidably left on the solitary shore. He sustained himself six- teen days on berries and roots, and, at the end of that period, was accidentally discovered from a boat employed in fishing. He was much emaciated, and almost unable to speak, and in this state was earned to his companions, who greatly rejoiced at his providential deliverance. In the mean time, De Monts and his party had sailed into a spacious bay, which they called La Baye Franfoise, but since known under the appellation of the Bay of Fundy. They also discov«ed the narrow channel called Digby Gut. After passing through this channel, they were delighted with the beautiful basin into which it opened, it being surrounded with fine scenery, and hills that poured down streams of fresh water into the level lands of the shore. Potrincourt was so much pleased with the extremity of the basin, and the river flowing into it, that he chose the land at their junction for his residence, and, having obtained a grant of it from De Monts, called it Port Royal.* The next place visited was a high cape on the north side of La Baye Fran?oise. At this place they found native copper, which, from being supposed to contain gold, gave the name of Cape d’Or to that place. At Parrsboro’ and Cape Blowmedon, they found various crystals and amethysts, some of which were afterwards presented to the King and Queen. Having altered their course and steered along the northern shore, they found a great river, called by the natives Ouangondy ; but from having disco- vered it on the 24th of June, the day of the festival of St. John the Baptist, they named it St. John. In hopes of finding a short communication between La Baye Fran- ^oise and the Bay Chaleurs and Tadousac,f they sailed up the stream, until the water became too shallow for their vessels. Its grandeur and * Since called Annapolis, in honour of Queen Anne. t Haliburton, vol. i. p. 16. Tadousac, situated below Quebec, was the first French settlement made on the St. Lawrence. -NEW BRUNSWICK. 15 beauty its fish and fowl — its wild grapes and rich meadows, were all objects of admiration. The noble river swept slowly and majestically on its course, through groves of lofty elms and maples ; and the shores, although often fi-equented by the native savages, were buried beneath thick forests, of which large tracts remain uncleared even to the present day. It has not been ascertained whether De Monts and his compa- nions were the first Europeans who ascended the St. John ; it is never- theless very certain that they were its first navigators in vessels of any considerable burthen. Having examined this river probably as far as the site where Frede- ricton now stands, they followed the shores of the bay until they found an island in the middle of a river, which had been previously explored by Champlain. From a peculiar configuration of the river and its tri- butary streams, which suggested the idea of a cross, the island was called St. Croix, and a fort was erected to defend the adventurers from the assaults of the natives, in whose friendship they could have little confi- dence. The island of St. Croix* is situated at the mouth of a river of the same name, which now forms a part of the boundary between New Brunswick and the State of Maine, and within a mile and a half of the present town of St. Andrew’s. It was about a mile and a quarter in circumference, and quite low and level. Its southern side was defended by a few pieces of cannon, and upon its opposite side a fort was erected to command the river. The fort contained the dwelling of De Monts, above which waved the royal standard of France. There was also a magazine and a chapel. The roof of the latter was supported by living trees. Near the magazine were the dwellings of D’Orville Champlain, Champdore, and other gentlemen, with a long covered gallery for exer- cise and amusement in bad weather. The land between the fort and ♦ There has been some dispute in regard to the river which De Monts called St. Croix. L’Escarbot, in the Histoire de la Nouvelle France, says, “ Quittans la Riviere St. Jean, ils vinrent suivant la cote d vingt lieues de la en une grande riviere (qui est proprement mer), oii ils se campdrent en une petite isle au mi- lieu d icelle. The mouth of the St, Croix, now so called, is twenty leagues from St. John, and the whole description given by L’Escarbot agrees with the present features of the country. NEW BRUNSWICK. battery was laid out in gardens, wbicli, notwithstanding the lateness of the season, were planted and decorated.* As this fort only consisted of a low breastwork, and a ditch opened in loose soil, it has entirely disappeared, and not a fragment of the wooden buildings now remains. Old French bricks, cannon-balls, and other relics have been found on the island at the place where the fort was erected. Potrincourt having chosen Port Royal for his residence, embarked on board one of the vessels, and returned to France. It was soon disco- vered by the French that the site of their encampment was most unfa- vourable. The island afforded scarcely any fuel, and no fresh water ; and as their grain had been planted too late in the season to ripen, on the approach of winter they were compelled to live on salted meat. The scurvy soon made its appearance, and of seventy-six persons, thirty-six died during the winter, and those who survived w’ere reduced to a state of great distress. From these circumstances, De Monts determined to seek a more favourable climate for making a settlement. Accordingly, as soon as the ice had disappeared in the spring, he visited Penobscot, Kenebec, Casco, Saco, and Malabarre, now called Cape Cod. The aborigines of St. Croix were very friendly, and much pleased with the society of their visitors ; but the Indians of Cape Cod were found to be hostile, and far too numerous to be withstood by the small force of De Monts; he therefore returned to Port Royal. At this period, the whole country, including New Brunswick and the chief part of the State of Maine, was called Acadia. On the approach of autumn, De Monts set sail for France, leaving Pontgrave, Champlain, and Champ- dore in charge of the infant Colony. In the succeeding season, his people raised grain and vegetables ; and an abundant supply of venison was obtained by hunting, or purchase from savages. They also endea- voured to establish themselves farther south ; but, from the strength and hostility of the Indians, they were unsuccessful. De Monts and Potrincourt, after their return to France, were active in making preparations for another voyage, and raising a reinforcement for the little Ccflony at Port Royal. They sailed from Honfleur on the * Halibiirton, vol. i. p. 18. NEW BRUNSWICK. jy 13th of May, 1606, in a vessel of 150 tons burthen, and, after a long passage, arrived at Canseau. They also visited Port Mouton ; but on their arrival at Port Royal on the 27th of July, they lamented to find that Pontgrave had departed from the place twelve days before. He had been instructed by De Monts to explore the coast southward of Cape Cod, but was twice compelled to return by contrary virinds, and in making a third attempt his vessel was wrecked. After building two small vessels, which he loaded with his provisions and merchandise, he sailed, leaving two of his men in charge of the goods he was unable to remove. After the return of De Monts and Potrincourt, the settlement at Port Royal soon began to revive, and L’Escarbot, a respectable lawyer, devoted his energies to the introduction of agriculture and the importa- tion of domestic animals ; but*De Monts was still very desirous to establish himself farther to the south, where the climate was milder. On the 28th of August he again returned to France, in company with • Pontgrave and Potrincourt ; Champlain and Champdore again made a voyage to Cape Cod, where they were compelled to land in order to repair the rudder of their vessel. Two guns were discharged at the natives, who had stolen a hatchet. This circumstance gave the savages an excuse for declaring war, and accordingly on the following morning a shower of arrows was thrown among the French, two of whom were killed and several wounded. The dead were buried at the foot of a cross, and during the performance of the burial service, the natives, who had fled into the woods, were dancing and yelling according to their barbarous customs. No sooner had Potrincourt and his men embarked, than they rushed out of the forest, tore down the cross, disinterred the bodies, stripped them of their grave-clothes, and carried them off in triumph. The French commander was afterwards driven by adverse winds into the same harbour, where he caught seven of the savages, and put them to death.* There can be little doubt that it was from acts of violence committed by the first voyagers to America upon the natives, that they were induced ♦ Haliburton, vol. i. page 24. 18 NEW BRUNSWICK. to cherish that spirit of retaliation which was so hombly manifested afterwards upon whole villages of European settlers, when neither sex nor age was spared from the hrutal violence of the tomahawk an scalping-knife. Alas ! too often was the untutored Indian shot down, for acts which, according to his own laws and customs, were y punishable. Any retaliation made upon a single member o *^"y ' called forth revenge ; hut had those who first landed upon the shores of America been governed by principles of equity, and practise or- hearance, the red men of the forest would have been their friends, an spared the lives of thousands slain to gratify a passion implanted in their bosoms by the barbarous treatment their brethren had received at the hands of the early visitors to the great continent. Being again defeated in establishing a settlement to the southward, Potrincourt returned to Port Royal, where he was received by a pro- cession which accompanied him to his house with much formality. Tlie • whole company spent the ensuing winter in great festivity. A water- miU was erected to grind their corn, and they had been successful in and hunting. Several hogsheads of pickled alewives were sent to France, with other productions of the country. But the French Colonists soon began to experience much uneasiness from the encamp- ment of 400 Indians near their little fortress. The Acadian tribes were at last discovered to be at war with the Armouchequois, or Cape Cod Indians ; and the little army, under the command of Mamhertou, a celebrated Sachem, departed to join their friends of the Ouangondy, or River St. John, whence they proceeded in their canoes to meet their enemies. In this expedition they were successful, and Indian songs commemorative of the battle fought have been transmitted down to the present generation. The French, after waiting with much anxiety for the return of De Monts, were at last informed, by a vessel from Canseau, that their leader was in extreme difficulty in France. Complaints had been made that, under the exclusive privileges held by him, he prevented vessels em- ployed in fisliing from obtaining necessary supplies, and his monopoly of the fur-trade had given dissatisfaction. The Government, being very desirous to encourage the fishery, and willing to yield to the entreaties of the merchants, cancelled the grant of De Monts, giving him the NEW BRUNSWICK. 19 paltry sum of C.OOO livres to reimburse him for 100,000 livres expended in founding the Colony. To obtain that small sum, he was authorised to levy a tax upon the peltries of the fur-traders, which, Champlain said, “ was like giving him the sea to drink.” Although there is reason to believe that he had abused the powers entrusted to him, and had been cruel to his countrymen, yet his abrupt and sudden deprivation was ungenerous and unjust. Potrincourt lamented over the misfortunes of his friend, and resolved to maintain the settlement of Port Royal, where he had a desire to spend the remainder of his days with his family. After gathering the first fruits of his harvest, and different kinds of ores from the rocks, he sailed on the 11th of August for France. Specimens of the grain and other productions of Acadia w^ere given to the King, who expressed his gratification at the present. Potrincourt succeeded in obtaining a grant of Port Royal, upon condition that he would support ten Jesuits for the purpose of introducing Christianity among the savages. But, although he was a Roman Catholic, he greatly disliked the Jesuits, * and endeavoured to get rid of two priests who had volunteered their ser- vices for Acadia. Fearing that they would meddle with his affairs, it is said that he informed them, “ they must leave him to rule the people on earth, and merely guide them to heaven.” After their arrival at Port Royal, the priests sent back bitter complaints of their treatment, and sought redress. From their statements, Madame de Gourcherville, in the spring of 1613, despatched a vessel, with a number of emigrants, from Ilonfleur to La Have, where two priests took pos- session of the harbour, and set up the arms of the pious lady. The vessel then proceeded to Port Royal, and the captain, M. Sausaye, removed tlie reverend fathers from Potrincourt’s settlement to Mount Desert, where, with a few of the Colonists, they erected a cross, cele- brated mass, and named the place St Saviour. While this settlement was in progress, they were attacked by Captain Argali, an Englishman, in a vessel of 14 guns, bound to Virginia. After a spirited contest, in which one of the priests was killed, the French surrendered, and most of them were earned to James* Town. Argali pretended tliat they were pirates, and accordingly the Governor determined to hang them ; but finding that the matter had assumed a more serious aspect than he had c 2 NEW BRUNSWICK. anticipated, the Captain acknowledged the facts, from which it appeared that the prisoners were French subjects. As the two nations peace, it might have been expected that the Governor at eas won Le given Argali a severe reprimand ; but, so far was he from b mg displeased, that he immediately ordered the Captain to attack other French settlements. That officer soon appeared at Port Royal, and captured the place almost without resistance. Some of the inhabitants fled into the woods, others were carried away prisoners, and t ® ^ ® ® of the fortifications were thrown down. No complaint was ma e o these aggressions by France, which was satisfied when the prisoners were restored. At this period the Colonies were considered of no value, and, therefore, they became the prey of almost every armament that crossed the Atlantic. Acadia is said to have been the favourite Colony ot Henry IV., but it does not appear that he supported it with any degree of energy ; nor was England, nor any other European Power, active in maintaining her rights, or resenting injuries inflicted upon the early Colonists. In 1621, Sir William Alexander obtained a free grant from James I. of all the country extending from the St. Croix to the St. Lawrence. In his patent this territory is, for the first time, called Nova Scotia, which included New Brunswick and the islands in the Gulf of St. Lawrence as far as Newfoundland. Sir William appears to have pos- sessed a variety of talent, and was styled by the King a philosophical poet. Among his poetical works, was one called the “Aurora,” a long complaint on his unsuccessful addresses to a young lady. He obtained knighthood in 1613, and was appointed one of the Gentlemen Ushers to Prince Charles. In 1626, the King appointed him Secretary of State for Scotland. He was also created a Peer of that kingdom in 1630, under the title of Viscount Stirling ; and on the 14th of June, 1633, he was made Earl of Stirling. With the grant of Nova Scotia he also received extraordinary powers, being made Lieutenant- General, Justice-General, High Lord of Admiralty, with power to create titles of honour, appoint bishops, and all other officers. The only reservation made to the Crown in the patent, was a tenth part of the royal mines of gold and silver, and five per cent, on the imports and exports after the first seven years. NEW BRUNSWICK. 21 In 1625, Charles I., by a novodamus, renewed this patent,* to which in 1628 he added another, granting the whole course of the St. Law- rence to the Gulf of California. This grant included Canada and the chief part of the United States. An Order of Baronets was created, “ each of whom were to hold jurisdiction over a tract extending three miles along the coast, and ten towards the interior, and to receive in full property 16,000 acres of land. In return, each was bound to lit out six men for the Colony, or to pay 2,000 marks. By an extraor- dinary regulation, they were allowed to take seisin, or legal possession, not on the spot, but on the Castle Hill of Edinburgh, Nova Scotia being included in the county of that name.”f The honours, powers, and territories granted to Sir William, called forth much ridicule from his witty contemporaries, who derided his attempt to rise from a poet to a king, and, like Alexander, to rule over a world unknown. There is no account of his ever having visited his extensive territory in America in person ; but in 1622, he fitted out a vessel, with a body of settlers, destined for Nova Scotia. From numerous delays, the vessel was unable to proceed beyond New- foundland during that season. In the ensuing spring, they coasted along the shores ; but finding their principal harbours already occupied by the French, who were not disposed to give up their possessions peaceably, they returned to England, where they gave the most favourable reports respecting the continent they had visited. War soon broke out with France, and Sir William, in 1627, despatched a small squadron under his eldest son, accompanied by Kertk, a French refugee, known as Sir David Kirk. The forts at Port Royal, St. Croix, and Pentagoet, were soon captured. At the former place, young Alexander erected a new fortress, and took up his residence as Governor of the country. J During their voyage they captured eighteen French transports, with 135 pieces of cannon, and other valuable stores, destined for the fortifi- • Narrative of Oppressive Proceedings against the Earl of Stirling, by Him- self, 4to. Edinburgh 1836, p. 53 — 75. t Case of the Honourable Baronets of Scotland and Nova Scotia, pp. 10—27. t Deucher, Alexander, (Genealogist,) Memorial from the Stirling Papers — M urray. ^ gg NEW BRUNSWICK. cations at Quebec and Port Royal. In one of the captured transports was Claude de la Tour, a gentleman of fortune and enterprise, w held a large tract of land upon the St. John, under a grant om French Crown. Being brought to England. La Tour was introduced to Sir William ; and in order to secure his lands, he agree to es is upon them a party of Scotch emigrants. Having entered into this new engagement, he repaired to Cape Sable,* where there was a ® by his son. He employed every kind of entreaty and threat, to m uw young La Tour to co-operate with him in his arrangemen s wi English ; but all was in vain, and his son indignantly re use ® ‘ any part in an act which he considered treasonable. An engagemen took place between the parties : the son repulsed the father wit con- siderable loss 5 and the latter, being ashamed to return to England, was permitted to reside at the Cape ; but his son would not allow lum to enter the fort. Claude de la Tour returned afterwards to England ; and Lord Stirling, it is said, promised to confirm to him Cape a e, and a considerable extent of the adjoining coast.t It has been represented by some writers, that this was a cession the whole of Nova Scotia, excepting only Port Royal: such an opinion, however, is exceedingly erroneous. The indenture, dated 30t o April, 1636, was in the possession of Mr. Deucher; but the transac- tion was never completed,]; as wiU appear fi-om the fact, that La Tour never took any possession of the district referred to, but brought out a party of Scotch emigrants to the west side of the basin near Port Royal (Granville), where he buUt a fort, the remains of which are still called the Old Scotch Fort.§ At this place thirty of the emigrants (lied during the winter. In 1629, Kirk took possession of Cape Breton, and conquered Canada. Britain now held, by possession and conquest, all this part of America ; yet no importance appears to have been attached to these Colonies at this period, and by the Treaty of St. Germain’s, Charles I. • The harbour where the fort stood is now called Port la Tour, where the remains of the fortification may still be seen. r, „ o v t Historical Account of British America, by Hugh Murray, F.R.b.E., vol. i. i>. 125 ; Haliburton, vol. i. pp. 43, 44. J Deucher, Alexander. § Haliburton, vol. i. p. 45. NEW BRUNSWICK. resigned his right to New France to Louis XIII., and the country was soon taken possession of by the French, who poured into it great numbers of emigrants. Home, who was in command of Nova Scotia at the time of this impolitic measure, received orders to demolish his fort, to remove British inhabitants, and abandon the country. To meet the expenses he had incurred. Lord Stirling received a grant from the Government of £10,000, It was, nevertheless, acknowledged that his patent was still in force. It has been stated by some, that the King considered that he had only given up certain places, and still possessed a right to occupy parts of the country,* Having obtained possession of Acadia, the French Court sent out Razillai, Commander-in- Chief, having granted to him the Bay and River of St, Croix, On his arrival at La Have, he was so much charmed with the situation, that, with the permission of La Tour, he took up his residence there, and built a fort. Claude de la Tour had obtained a grant of a large tract of country bordering on the St. John. Charles Etienne de la Tour, his eldest and surviving son, had a portion confirmed to him of Isle of Sable, La Have, Port Royal, and Minas, with large tracts of the adjoining lands, and also the country bordering on the St. John, granted to his father in 1627. Monsieur Denys held all the remaining parts of the Province, from Canseau to Gaspe Bay, on the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Notwithstanding the Treaty of St, Germain’s, the English having opened extensive settlements between Florida and Kenebec, were • Case of the Baronets of Nova Scotia, pp. 28, 32, 34 ; Murray, vol, i, pp. 125, 126. At the present time, strong claims, founded on the above grants and transactions, are before the Government. (See some articles on the sub- ject in “Simmonds’s Colonial Magazine,’* vol, iv. p. 1, and vol. viii. p. 129.) It had been supposed that the titles of the House of Stirling had become ex- tinct ; but his descendants have appeared, and are now seeking the considera- tion of those rights they have derived from their celebrated ancestor. If the heirs of Lord Stirling and the Baronets of Nova Scotia should be permitted to carry out the objects of the original patent, which was the actual settlement of wild lands in America, they would yet find abundant scope for all their energies, as there are still immense tracts of excellent land remaining in a wilderness state. NEW BRUNSWICK. 2i gradually increasing in wealth and population ; whereby they effectually prevented the French from extending their operations beyond the latter river, which was then considered the western boundary of Acadia. Razillai captured Pemaquid, and carried the goods belonging to the English Colonists at Plymouth to La Have. Soon afterwards he died, and the government of the country was assumed by Daubre de Chamisse, who was subsequently appointed Governor by a Royal Commission. Claude de la Tour, and afterwards his son, had erected forts and made other improvements on the St. John, which, from being navigable to a great distance, afforded the best channel of commu- nication to Bay Chaleurs and Quebec. The Indians who frequented this river were also numerous, and with them La Tour carried on a profitable trade. Whether from jealousy arising from those circum- stances, or from other causes, it is not known, but there arose a deadly strife between him and Chamisse, who soon entered into open warfare with his countryman. Accounts of the disturbance having reached France, Louis XIII. addressed a letter to Chamisse, dated 10th Febmary, 1638, and in it defined the limits of the country claimed by the contending parties. Chamisse’s territory extended from a line drawn from the centre of the Bay of Fundy, to Canseau on one side, and New England on the other. The remaining part of Acadia was assigned to La Tour. Permission was granted to Chamisse to occupy La Have and Port Royal. La Tour was allowed to hold his own fort on the St. John, and both were required to keep within the bounds prescribed. Reconciliation neverthe- less did not follow ; accusations from both parties were transmitted to the King, who finally sent out an order to Chamisse to arrest La Tour, and send him to France. In the commencement of the quarrel, La Tour obtained aid from the people of Massachusetts ; but his enemy made it appear that he was an outlaw, and for that purpose sent an agent to Boston with a copy of the warrant for La Tour’s apprehen- sion. This negotiation resulted in an agreement betw^een Endicott, the Governor of New England, and Chamisse, in which the former pro- mised to remain neutral. La Tour had previously chartered four armed vessels and employed eighty volunteers from Boston ; with this aid he returned to the St. John, whence he compelled Chamisse to retreat to NEW BRUNSWICK. 25 Ins fort at Penobscot. Madame La Tour had been engaged in Eng- land in adjusting her husband’s affairs, and having completed her work, she sailed for the St. John ; but the master of the vessel proceeded to the St. Lawrence, and having finished his traffic there, finally set the lady on shore at Boston. For this violation of his charter, and the loss Madame Jja Tour had sustained by him, she recovered £2,000 da- mages. She then proceeded to the fort on the St. John, and Chamisse having heard of the absence of her husband, pursued her, and attacked her fortress, which, from being commanded by a female, he probably ' thought would be an easy conquest. But the lady defended the place with great spirit, and her artillery fired with so much precision, that Chamisse’s frigate was rendered unmanageable, and he was compelled to draw off beyond the range of the cannon. In the engagement he had twenty men killed and thirteen wounded. Having repaired his vessel, he returned to Penobscot, under the humiliating reflection of having attacked a woman during the absence of her husband, and received at her hands an ample chastisement for his ungallant and cowardly behaviour. From motives of policy, the people of Massachusetts now refused to afford La Tour any farther assistance, and Chamisse seized another opportunity to attack the fort, when he was absent on a trading excur- sion. Having sailed up the River St. John, a siege was commenced, which, from the weakness of the garrison, offered a chance of conquest. But Madame La Tour, with a handful of men, was determined to defend the place even at the risk of sacrificing her own life, and during three flays the besiegers were several times repulsed and compelled to retreat. On the fourth day, which happened to be Easter Sunday, she was unfortunately betrayed by a mutinous Swiss, who had gone over to the enemy and communicated information fatal to the safety of the heroic woman. Even under this untoward circumstance, her courage did not fail ; and when Chamisse had scaled the wall, she met him in the front of her little garrison, and ready to perish in her husband’s cause. Hav- ing reason to fear so brave a person, and having been several times beaten by a woman, Chamisse proposed a capitulation, which Madame La Tour accepted for the humane purpose of saving the lives of the few brave men who had so long defended the place against a superior 26 NEW BRUNSWICK. force. But no sooner Irad her cowardly adversary signed the articles of capitulation, entered the fort, and observed its defenceless state, than he immediately hanged all the survivors, reserving only one, whom he forced to execute his comrades. Besides this act of fiendish barbarity, he compelled Madame La Tour to witness the revolting and inhuman scene, and also led her to the gallows with a halter round her neck. All the ordnance, stores, merchandise, furs, and plate of great value were carried away by the cowardly conqueror to Penobscot. The privations and perils Madame La Tour had suffered — the dreadful fate of her family and followers, with the loss of fortune and the danger to which her husband would consequently be exposed, broke with great violence upon the health of this heroic w^oman, and she died shortly afterwards, deeply lamented by. all who had heard of her name and misfortunes. The above fort* was situated at the mouth of the Gemsec, a deep and narrow channel between the Grand Lake and the main river. • Mr. Haliburton, in his History of Nova Scotia, has given a description of the fort at the Gemsec, taken from an original inventory dated 5th August, 1C70, as follows : — “ First — At the entering in of the said fort, upon the left hand, we found a court of guard, of about fifteen paces long and ten broad, having upon the right hand a house of the like length and breadth, built with hewn stone, and covered with shingles; and above them there is a chapel, of about six paces long and four paces broad, covered with shingles and built with terras, upon which there is a small turret, wherein there is a little bell, weighing about eighteen pounds. “ il/ore— Upon the left hand as we entered into the court, there is a maga- zine, having two stories, built of stone and covered with shingles, being in length about thirty-six paces, and ten in breadth ; which magazine is very old, and wanted much reparation ; under which there is a little cellar, in which there is a little well. And upon the other side of said court, being on the right hand, there is a house of the same length and breadth the magazine is, being half covered with shingles, and the rest uncovered, and wanted much repara- tion. Upon the ramparts of the said fort are twelve iron guns, weighing in all 21,122 pounds. More — We do find in said fort six murtherers, without chambers, weighing 1,200 pounds. More — 200 iron bullets, from three to eight pounds. NEW BRUNSWICK. 27 Under this burden of misfortunes, La Tour applied for aid to Sir David Kirk, who at that time was Governor of Newfoundland. That application was unsuccessful ; but his friends at Boston supplied him with a sum of money, and a vessel, whereby he was able to revive his trade with the Indians of the St. John and Bay of Fundy. For those two acts of kindness it is said he made them a most ungrateful return. In 1651, Charnisse being dead, La Tour was recalled, and he mar- ried the widow of his inveterate enemy. About this time Chamisse’s sister also died, having bequeathed her property in Acadia to La Tour, whereby he obtained possession of the whole country. But La Tour le Borgne, to whom Charnisse owed a large sum of money, took pro- ceedings against the property of the deceased, and obtained a decree from the Court of France to take possession of the lands owned by the debtor. This individual, evidently with a desire of obtaining the whole Colony, fitted out an expedition, and first attacked Monsieur Denys, whom he took, and having put him in irons, sent him to Port Royal. He then destroyed all the buildings and fortifications belonging to Denys at Chedabucto and La Have, among which, at the latter place, was a chapel that cost 100,000 francs. La Tour’s fort on the St. John still remained uncaptured ; and while Borgne was making preparations for its reduction, he was preceded by Colonel Sedgewick, who was commissioned by Oliver Cromwell in 1654 to recover Nova Scotia from the French. Having defeated La Tour on the St. John, Sedge- “ Lastly — About thirty or forty paces from said fort, there is a small out- house, being about twenty paces in length and eight in breadth, built with planks and covered with shingles, which do not serve for any use but to house cattle. ** More — About fifty paces from said outhouse, there is a square garden, enclosed with rails ; in which garden there are about fifty or sixty trees bear- ing fruit. (Signed) “ Le Chevalier de Grand. Fontaine. Jean Maillard. Richard Walker. Isaac Garner. Marshall, Secy ,* ** NEW BRUNSWICK. wick attacked Le Borgne at Port Royal, and captured the place, al- most without resistance, notwithstanding it contained a strong garrison, a number of cannon, and plenty of provisions. Pentagoet, or Penobs- cot, was also taken, and the whole country again fell into the hands of the English.* During these struggles in the infant Colony, French settlements were made on the shores of the Bay Chaleurs. In the year 1638 or 1639, when Acadia was held by Razillai, La Tour, and Denys, Jean Jacques Enaud commenced the clearing and improvement of a tract of land on the northern shore of New Brunswick (now so called).*!' Enaud was a native of Basque in France, whence he emigrated, with a number of families, to America. It does nof appear that he obtained a grant of land from the French Government, and therefore it is probable that he was licensed by Denys, or that his district was supposed to belong to Canada. He was related to the Governor of Quebec, and it has been said that he obtained a title to all the lands between Grande Ance and Jacquet River. Enaud appears to have been in affluent circumstances. He had trading establishments at Baie des Vents Island, and other places along the coast ; but his principal residence was at Abshaboo (now Bathurst), at the mouth of the Nepisiquit. From the peculiarity of the situation, in a deep bay, and remote from the settlements made by the French and English on the Atlantic coast, Enaud and his fol- lowers were in some degree exempt from those broils and conflicts that so often disturbed the peace of the southern districts. Indeed, the settlements of these people in Acadia do not appear to have been gene- rally known at the time, as history is almost silent upon the subject. The situation of La Tour’s fort, at the mouth of the Gemsec, on the St. John, was such that he could readily have communicated with and obtained aid from Enaud, provided they were on friendly terms ; but the existence of a correspondence between those persons is only tradi- tional. Having carried on an extensive trade in furs, and having * Ilaliburton, p. 60, 61. t No particular account of Enaud, and the settlements made by him in New France, or Acadia, is found among the historical records of the time. Those accounts have been obtained from letters and MSS. still in possession of the descendants of the Acadian French, NEW BRUNSWICK. 39 pursued the taking of the walrus, or sea-cow, for several years, during which time Les Hahitans had become the occupants of the best situa- tions, and greatly increased in numbers, Enaud married a Mohawk woman, the daughter of a renowned Sachem, or Chief; but, from a quarrel that took place in the family, he was murdered by his wife’s brother. At this period, the Mohawks of Gaspe and Canada were at war against the Micmacs of Acadia. The Nepisiquit was the boundary between the two tribes. The Mohawks were victorious, and such of Enaud s followers as escaped their vengeance were compelled to fly to the Isle St. John. Even to the present time, the Micmacs of the northern shores of New Brunswick are terrified at the long, tremulous whoop of the Mohawk Indian. The French emigrants did not return to their lands until about 1668 ; and in 1670 they had resumed their settlements at Nepisiquit, Grande Ance, and Caraquette. In 1692 they were again destined to experience new trials and adversities. Tlie Micmacs, with whom they had long been upon friendly terms, had become jealous of the intrusions made by the white men, whom they now resolved to drive away. Led by a desperate chief, called Halion, they attacked the settlements, drove away the cattle, and burned the houses ; and such of the inhabitants as escaped their fury were compelled to leave the country. During all the changes of rulers, the inconstancy of the mother- country, the fickleness of the Indians, and the determination of the English to avenge the disloyalty of the French by banishment, they never altogether abandoned Acadia. The religion of the Roman Catholics, from its numerous and peculiar exhibitions, strikes the mind of the savage with far greater force than the forms of Protestant worship. The French priests found little diffi- culty in converting the North American Indians so far to their faith, that they became their temporal as well as their spiritual guides ; and they often led them to battle against the English, who had taken little pains to convert the savages to Christianity. The French Government, in order to obtain allies from these warlike tribes, offered large bounties to such of their subjects as would marry with them. Several of the priests, and many of the French inhabitants, adopted the habits and customs of the Indians ; and the latter took to themselves wives of the 30 NEW BRUNSWICK. red women of the forests. From these have sprung a mongrel race, whose mixed features may still he seen in some parts of the Province. It is, therefore, not surprising that the lineage of individuals who now hold respectable situations can be traced to some renowned warrior or wise Sachem of the Etchmins or Abenakis tribes. Notwithstanding the country was conquered by the English, the increase of the French population, which was scattered in smalt villages along the coasts and borders of the principal rivers, afforded France a decided advantage when the two nations were at war. Little pmns were therefore taken by the English to maintain a Colony that had already been given away several times, and whose lands had frequent y been ceded to private individuals. In order to secure his property and trade. La Tour was ready to submit to any Government into whose hands Acadia might fall , he therefore urged his claim upon the English, and pleaded the grant made of Acadia- to his father by Lord Stirling. His application was supported by persons of influence in England, and he again obtained the chief part of the country, which he sold to Mr. Temple, afterwards Sir Thomas Temple. This gentleman expended £16,000 in erecting fortifications, and he carried on a lucrative trade ; but by the treaty of Breda, concluded in 1667 by Charles II., Acadia was again given up to France. Temple endeavoured to retain a part of the country, by making a distincUon between Acadia and Nova Scotia ; but he was finally ordered to deliver up the whole territory to the French. Even at tliis period the country was considered scarcely worth bemg protected, and its inhabitants were exposed to numerous pirates that infested the coast. Among these was the notorious Captain Kidd, whose money, some have believed, is still buried on the shores of New Brunswick. The pirates not only plundered the inhabitants, but actually took the forts at the Gemsec, on the St. John, and at Pen- tagoet. Upon the breaking out of the war that followed the, RevoluUon of 1688, the defenceless state of Nova Scotia rendered her an easy con- quest, and the people of Massachusetts resolved to attempt the achievement of the enterprise. Accordingly, an expedition was fitted o NEW BRUNSWICK. 31 out under the command of Sir William Phipps.* Tliree ships, besides transports and 700 men, appeared before Port Royal on the 20th of May, 1690. The garrison consisted of only 80 men. Manival, the French Governor, obtained a very favourable capitulation under the circumstances. It has been stated by French writers, that Sir William Phipps violated the articles upon which Manival surrendered. Having administered the oath of allegiance to the inhabitants, he carried away the Governor, 40 soldiers, and two priests. He then proceeded to Chedabucto, occupied by Montorquil, the successor of Denys ; and finding the fortification resolutely defended, he set fire to the place, and granted a capitulation to the small but brave gar- rison, who were safely conducted to Placentia. Sir William then destroyed the chapel and other buildings of Isle Perce. During this miserable state of the country, two pirates appeared at Port Royal, where their crews pillaged the country, set fire to the buildings, and burned one whole family in their dwelling. Port Royal was shortly afterwards taken possession of by Chevalier Villabon, who captured the place by pulling down the English flag, and hoisting French colours in its place. Villabon, who was commissioned by the French Government to take the command of Nova Scotia, recovered a considerable sum of money that had been buried by one Des Gautius previous to the landing of Sir William Phipps, and then proceeded to attack the fort on the River St. John ; but on his passage thither he was overtaken by a pirate, who captured his vessel, which contained, besides a large sum of money, the presents intended to secure the alliance of the savages. The old Charter of Massachusetts having been forfeited, a new one was granted by William and Mary. One of the provisos in the new charter was, that no land should be granted between the Sagada- hock and the Gulf of St. Lawrence without the special permission of the King, whereby a plain distinction was made between Nova Scotia and Massachusetts. * Sir William Phipps, the son of a blacksmith, was born at Pemaquid, in 1650. In the early part of his life, he built a vessel, and recovered from a Spanish wreck at Hispaniola £300,000. He was afterwards Governor of Massa- chusetts. NEW BRUNSWICK. 32 Although Acadia, which then included witliin its bounds New Bruns- wick, had been conquered by the English, it was nevertheless in the possession of the French. Villabon occupied the fort* on the St. John, which was the resort of the French and great numbers of Indians. In 1691 he made Mr. Nelson, who had been appointed Governor of Nova Scotia, a prisoner, and sent him to Quebec, whence he was carried to France. From the forts on the St. John the French and Indians were sup- plied with arms and ammunition, with which they made frequent attacks upon the villages of New England. The Government of Mas- sachusetts, therefore, resolved to stop the supplies sent out annually from France to that river. An armed vessel called the “ Sorrel” was sent to cruize in the Bay, and having met the French frigate with the supplies, a desperate engagement ensued ; but she was beaten off, and the supplies landed in safety. By numerous presents and the influence of the French priests, Villabon was successful in securing the aid of the Indian tribes. He was joined at St. John by Iberville, who arrived from Quebec with a body of soldiers and fifty Micmac Indians ; he was also reinforced by Baron Castine, who had lived many years among the savages and married a squaw. With these forces Villabon captured Pemaquid, where the Indians were permitted to murder several of the English prisoners. The people of Massachusetts, being aroused by numerous acts of cruelty committed on their countrymen, sent Colonel Church with 500 men to Nova Scotia, and the country was soon regained, with the exception of the fort on the St. John. He called upon the Acadians to assist him in subduing the Indians ; but they refused their aid, where- upon they were considered enemies, and the soldiers, after plundering the inhabitants, set fire to their buildings. The situation of the Colo- nists at this period was truly deplorable. They scarcely knew at times to what country or nation they belonged. They were strongly attached to France, and when they refused to be loyal to the British * In regard to the fortifications on the St. John, only the fort at the Gemsec is generally mentioned by historians : but there are remains of other military works along the banks of the river, of which some notice will be taken in another chapter. iNKW BRUNSWICK. Crown, they were compelled to bear all the penalties of rebellion. The ro Vince remained in the possession of the English until 1696, when by the Treaty of Ryswick, it was again given to France. The memorable war of Queen Anne commenced in 1702. The vic- tories of Marlborough, and the universal success of British arms, were ollowed by a desire to improve the Colonies in America. New Eng- and haying suffered much from the savages who were allied with the French in Acadia, resolved to gain by war what had so often been lost by treaty. She had solicited the mother-country to relieve her of Acadia, which up to this time had formed a part of the Colony; but now the success of the English abroad called forth new energies in the people, who were desirous to share in the glories of their countrymen. In 1704, an expedition, commanded by Colonel Church, was sent to ova Scotia. They arrived at Beau Basin (now Cumberland), where the inhabitants were required to join them in the extermination of the Indians. Upon their refusal to take up arms against their allies, their houses were burned, their dikes opened, cattle destroyed, and their goods plundered. This expedition terminated in producing the greatest possible distress among the Acadian settlers, and' reflected but little credit upon the English Provincial troops, or the individual by whom they were commanded. Church returned to Massachusetts, where he was reinforced. He then proceeded up the St. John, and attacked the fort commanded by Villabon ; but the place was so well defended, that he re-embarked his men and retired. * Three years afterwards, 1,000 men were sent to complete the con- quest of the country ; but Subercase, the French commander at Port Royal, defended the place with so much ability, that the assailants were compelled to raise the siege. Shortly afterwards, another unsuc- cessful attempt was made by the people of Massachusetts to capture that fortress. ^ In 1710, an expedition was fitted out from Boston Bay, consisting of four men-of-war, two galleys, and fourteen transports, with one regi- ment of marines and four regiments of Provincial soldiers. These forces were put under the command of General Nicholson. The armament arrived at Port Royal on the 24th September, and the troops were landed without opposition. Subercase, the Governor, having a garrison D new BRUNSWICK. of only 260 men, made but a feeble resistance, and soon capitulated. The artillery taken by the English was purchased by the Govemmen for 7 499 livres, and the prisoners were sent to Rochelle. T e - « b. New E„g.»a i„ Nov. S«a .. th.. time amounted to £23,000. This sum was afterwards reimburse y Parliament. . , , The Court of France, fearing that Acadia would be irrecoverably lost, employed every means, through the medium of the French is sionaries and by presents, to secure the affections of the Acadians and Indians. Castine, with a body of the latter and a few French, defeated a party of the English. He also invested Port Royal, and the Mar- quis d’Alloigniers was ordered from France in great haste to aid him ; but the arrival of an English fleet in the Gulf of St. Lawrence effectu- ally checked these movements, and Castine’s army dispersed. During these operations, the Peace of Utrecht was concluded, be- tween England and France, on the 11th April, 1713. By the articles of the treaty, all Acadia, or Nova Scotia, according to its ancient limits, was ceded to Great Britain, and France was now for ever de- prived of the Colony.* General Nicholson, having conquered the country, was in 1714 appointed Governor. He was afterwards succeeded by General Philips, and Port Royal, the capital of Nova Scotia, was named Annapolis. From the severity of the climate, and dread of the savages, few Bri- tish settlers were disposed to take up their residence in the Province, and the population consisted of French Acadians, of whom there were 4,000 men capable of bearing arms. These people were strongly at- tached to their native country, and always lived in the hope that France would Anally conquer and hold the Colony, for which object they were ready to lend their aid. As they were known to be hostile to the British, whenever a war occurred they were called upon to take the oath of allegiance, to which many of them submitted, under the reser- vation that they should not be compelled to fight against their country- men. They were also exempt from the payment of any taxes, and permitted to trade with France. * Halibnrton, vol. i. p. 92. NEW BRUNSWICK. oc oo From this period the Acadians were called French Neutrals. But the Indians, who had always been attached to the French, were not con- quered, and refusing to become the subjects of Britain, they availed themselves of every opportunity that offered to plunder the EngUsh, upon many of whom they inflicted their savage tortures. Being well acquainted with the country, they would pass over it, carrying their canoes upon their shoulders between the rivers with great rapidity; and being often assisted by the French Neutrals, they bade defiance to the Government, and remained lords of their native soil. In the year 1720, a strong body of the Richibucto Indians, assisted by a party of the Penobscot tribe, made an attack upon Canseau, and other places on the eastern shores of Nova Scotia, and carried off pro- perty to the amount of £20,000. They were commanded by a saga- cious and powerful chief called Argimoosh, or the “ Great Witch.” In 1723, they captured seventeen sail of fishing- vessels from Massa- chusetts. A number of persons fell victims to this outrage, and many were put to the most cruel tortures. Governor Philips happened to be in the vicinity of Canseau at the time of this outrage, and sent two sloops well prepared, under the direction of Mr. Elliot of Boston, and Mr. Robinson of Cape Ann, in quest of the Indians. Elliot found seven vessels in a harbour called Winnepang, and immediately attacked them. The Indians, seeing him approach, cried out, “ Strike, English dogs ! and a desperate conflict ensued, in which the aborigines defended themselves with great bravery for some time, but finally retreated to the holds of the vessels, and fired upwards through their decks. Elliot threw hand-grenades among them, and they then plunged into the sea, where nearly all of them were either drowned or shot. Elliot was severely wounded ; five of his men were killed, and several much in- jured. The crews of the seven vessels thus captured, when they were taken by the Indians at Canseau, amounted to forty persons ; of these, fifteen were rescued, nine had been murdered, and the remainder sent as slaves to the Indian settlements at Richibucto. Mr. Robinson cap- tured ten schooners, and killed a number *of the marauders. The' crews of the remainder of the vessels were obtained by ransom.* D 2 ♦ Haliburtoii. 36 NEW BRUNSWICK. These Indians and their allies had taken up a strong position at Kenebec, where they occupied a fort defended by artillery, to dislodge them, Massachusetts in 1728 sent forward a body of troops. After a desperate battle, the savages were driven out of their fortress, and pursued with great slaughter. Halle, the French Roman Cathohc missionarj-, it is said, fought with great spirit untU he was killed. 1 he fort was demolished, and the victory gained overawed the Indians, who afterwards adopted a more sly but not less deadly system of warfare. The long peace between Great Britain and Franee terminated m 1 744, and war was again commenced. Quesnel, the Governor of Cape Breton, at the very commencement of hostilities took Canseau and laid siege to Annapolis ; but tbe defence of the latter place was so well con- ducted, that he was compelled to withdraw his troops. New England, in the mean time, with extraordinary zeal and courage, determined upon the capture of Louisburg, which was then the stronghold of tbe French in America, and consequently well fortified. Four thousand men were raised in Massachusetts, Connecticut, and New Hampshire. These were put under the command of Colonel Pepperall, and trans- ports were provided to convey the little army to the field of their intended operations. This expedition was fitted out under the influence of religious enthusiasm, and was considered a kind of crusade against the idolatrous worship of the Church of Rome. A chaplain marched with the troops, carrying a hatchet, to break the images that might be found in the possession of the enemy ; and Whitefield, the celebrated Methodist preacher, furnished a suitable motto for the occasion. This enthusiastic armament appeared before Louisburg on the 30th of April, 1745 ; and as its arrival was unexpected by the French garrison, the Provincial troops soon landed and captured a battery, turning the guns upon other parts of the fortifications. After a most unparalleled strug- gle in erecting batteries and making assaults, the ganrison of Louisburg surrendered ; and when the assailants had entered the forts, they were astonished at their own success, for the works were capable of defence against a much greater force. But the French had become dispirited from the arrival of English men-of-war ; they had also lost one of their own ships ; and the industry and valour of the besiegers were calculated to intimidate them, strong as their position was deemed. NEW BRUNSWICK. 37 The conquest of Cape Breton reflected great credit upon the Provin- cial troops, most of whom were traders and farmers who possessed but little knowledge of military affairs. The capture of St. John (now Prince Edward s Island) soon followed. By hoisting French colours at the captured forts, a vessel from the South Sea and two East Indiamen were decoyed and taken with cargoes which were valued at i£600,000. . In order to retrieve these losses, France sent a fleet into the Ameri- can Seas of no less than seventy ships, including eleven of the line, with 8,000 troops, under the command of the Duke d’Anville, who was instructed to take Louisburg and Annapolis, and, after capturing other forts along the American coast, to proceed to the West Indies. This fleet sailed from Brest in the summer of 1746, and escaped a British squadron that was stationed to observe its movements. From a series of disasters and tempestuous weather, it did not arrive at Chebucto until three months afterwards, when four of the ships were rendered unfit for service. Some of the fleet had been driven back by adverse vrinds, so that the expedition failed altogether. D’Anville, unable to bear so great a disappintment, died suddenly ; and Destourville, the Vice-Admiral, ran a sword through his own body. De la Jonquiere, then Governor of C^ada, in the hope of turning the scale of fortune, proceeded against Annapolis ; but in turning Cape Sable, he was met by a tempest— his fleet was broken up, and he was compelled to return to France. The English Colonists believed that these disasters arose from the immediate interposition of Divine Providence, and celebrated the events by a general thanksgiving. So determined were the French to take Nova Scotia, that they des- patched another fleet, of thirty-eight sail, under De la Jonquiere. This fleet was overtaken by Admirals Anson and Warren, who defeated the French, and captured two ships, one of which was an East Indiaman richly laden. Notwithstanding the great expense of maintaining her power in Ame- rica, by the taking of all the fortifications possessed by the French along the coast, Louisburg was again given up by the British, greatly to the mortification of the Provincials, who had gallantly maintained the mili- tary character of the nation, and driven their enemies from their strong-^ holds on the American shores. ✓ 38 NEW BRUNSWICK. About this period, Nova Scotia began to attract the attention of individuals in Britain, and it was proposed to make a settlement m e Province from the troops that had been disbanded in consequence of the peace. Every private soldier was allowed fifty acres of land, and officers a greater quantity, in proportion to their rank. By the encou- ragement held out by the Government, 3,760 persons, including many with families, in 1749 were landed at Chebuc, to— since called Halifax, after Lord Halifax, the patron of the expedition. Notwithstanding these settlers enjoyed the fostering care of their sovereign, and their safety and comfort were duly provided for, they were exposed to great privations, and suffered much from the attacks of the Indians. Some of them were made captives, and met vrith scalping, lingering tortures, and death ; others were held in dreadful captivity, and dragged almost naked through pathless forests and deep snows, until death was preferred to life ; and many were sold as articles of merchandise in the market at Louisbiirg, where the French, under humane pretensions, extorted heavy ransoms. At this early period disputes arose respecting the boundary of Acadia, or Nova Scotia. The claims of the French extended from the St. Croix to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and eastward to the peninsula of Chignecto, embracing the present Province of New Brunswick. The Acadians and Indians occupied a fort on the River St. John, and Beau-Sejour at Cumberland. M. La Come had landed at Bay Verte, with COO men, from Canada, and commenced building a fort. The Indians were supplied with arms, and the town of Halifax was in danger of being seized. Major Lawrence was therefore despatched with a detachment of soldiers to dislodge the enemy ; but after two attempts to capture Beau-Sejour, he retired, and erected a fort on an opposite point of land, to check the operations of his adversaries. During these violations of the treaty, and the open hostilities of the French Neutrals, the Courts of France made fair promises, but no effectual measures were applied to render the British inhabitants secure, either in their property or persons. In this state of affairs in Nova Scotia, hostilities were again commenced, by the capture of two French men-of-war, on the coast of Newfoundland, by Admiral Bos- cawen. Those ships were the Alceide of 64 guns, and Lys of 52 NEW BRUNSWICK. 3y guns, which had been sent out to aid the disaffected portion of th# inhabitants in the Colony. War having been commenced, New England again manifested her usual patriotism, and despatched Lieutenant- Colonel Moncton, who, after a bombardment of four days, reduced Fort Beau-Sejour. He then proceeded to the St. John ; but the fort at this place was abandoned previous to his arrival.* The Acadians had extended their settlements to all the principal rivers in Nova Scotia. In New Brunswick also they occupied small villages at Bay Verte, Shediac, Richibucto, Miramichi, and other places on the southern shore of the Bay Chaleurs, where the remains of their fortifications are still to be seen. Although they had been greatly disturbed in the settlement of the country, their population now amounted to 18,000 souls. They owned 60,000 head of cattle ; and, by their frugality and industry, they had obtained almost every comfort required in their simple mode of living. They still cherished a warm attachment to their native country, from which if they were frequently separated by war, they were as often restored by peace. Happy would they indeed have been, if they had adhered closely to their promises of neutrality, and, in their alliance with the aborigines, had endeavoured to restrain them from those outrages they had com- mitted upon helpless English families. So far from observing the oaths they had taken, many took up arms against the British upon every favourable occasion, and they aided the savages in their cruel warfare against the subjects of their sovereign. Neither the life nor the property of a British subject was safe in the country, which, although it belonged to Great Britain, was really in the hands of the French Acadians and the Indians. The savages themselves were under the control of the French priests, who lived among them, and frequently adopted their customs. With them the Acadians had intermarried, and two races of people, whose original habits and manners were extremely different, soon.became strangely amalgamated ; the one forsaking a part of their civilisation, and the other a part of their barbarity. All the efforts of the English to reconcile those people Haliburton, vol. i. p. 142 — 168. 40 new BRUNSWICK. had proved abortive ; and the severe treatment they had received from individuals, afforded them but a meagre apology for their obstinacy and disloyalty. The treaties that had been made with them, they had violated ; and no confidence could any longer be placed in their pro- ^ mises, or even in their oaths of allegiance. Individuals, families, and sometimes whole villages of English settlers were surprised, robbed, scalped — murdered. To guard against the assaults of the Indians was almost impossible. They would creep upon the ground like serpents, or upon all-fours like quadrupeds, hiding themselves in marshes, thickets, and trees, until the silent hour of midnight arrived, when, like wolves, they would spring upon their prey, and, raising the war- whoop, they put all to death, except such as were reserved for their lingering tortures. It was under such circumstances, and by the earnest solicitations of the British Provincials, Admirals Boscawen and Martyn, with Governor Lawrence, held a Council, and, after mature deliberation, resolved to confiscate the property of the Acadians, or French Neutrals, and to drive them from the country. Accordingly, their lands, houses, and cattle were declared to be forfeited ; and they were only allowed to remove the small sums of money and the little household furniture they had in their possession. In order to enforce the dreadful man- date of the Council, it became necessary to decoy the unwary settlers. The inhabitants of several districts were therefore requested to assemble at certain places on urgent business, the nature of which was con- cealed. At these meetings soldiers were ready to enforce the law, and the order for expulsion was proclaimed. By this act the whole population was plunged into the greatest dismay and distress. Some of them endeavoured to remonstrate, some fled to the priests, and others met their fate with patient resignation. Only a few were allowed to return to their houses to make hasty pre- parations for their departure. So unwilling were they to leave the lands redeemed by their industry, that when they were shipped on board the transports prepared to receive them, the soldiers deemed it necessary to urge them forward with the points of their bayonets. Bitter indeed were the lamentations of these unfortunate people, and many a tragic tale is related of these occurrences in the ballads still chanted by their descendants. NEW BRUNSWICK. 41 Notwithstanding the active and violent means that were employed to prevent the escape of the Acadians, and to secure the transportation of the whole population, only about 7,000 persons were taken and carried away. Many fled with their wives and children into the woods, where numbers.perished by cold and starvation ; others escaped to the French settlements at Richibucto, Miramichi, and other places, and often concealed themselves in the forests until the violence of the dreadful order had in some degree subsided. The lands and dikes of these people were laid waste, their houses were set Are to, and 263 of their dwellings were seen in flames at one time. At Cumberland many of the inhabitants fled into the thickets, from whence they beheld the destruction of their property with patience ; but when they saw their chapel fired, they rushed out, killed thirty of those who were en- gaged in the work of destruction, and then returned to their hiding- places.* Of the 7,000 collected, 1,000 were sent to Massachusetts, where they became a public charge. The quota sent to Pennsylvania were landed in a most deplorable condition, and it was proposed by the Government there to sell them as slaves ; but the Acadians declared themselves to be prisoners of war, and as such they weje not bound to labour. Those who were sent to Georgia, set out to return to Nova Scotia ; but Governor Lawrence issued an order for their detention, and, having reached New York, they were compelled to abandon their design. After the peace between England and France that followed, the British Government allowed them to return to their homes ; but of 7,000 that had been expelled, only about 1,300 were ever found to avail themselves of the pardon that was offered them.f In the year 1757, William Pitt began his brilliant ministerial career, and preparations were made to secure to the British Crown the whole of North America. Early in 1758, a strong fleet under Admiral * In 1841, there was living at the mouth of the Peticodiac river, in New Brunswick, a Monsieur Belleveau, who recollected the facts related, with great clearness. He was at the above time upwards of 100 years of age, and his. descendants now occupy a large village bearing his name, t Haliburlon, vol. i, pp. 173, 178, 181. / NEW BRUNSWICK. 4 ^^ Boscawen, and an army under the command of General Amherst, were sent across the Atlantic. The Provincials, being aroused by the solici- tations of the celebrated statesman, cheerfully performed their part in the service, and, on the 2nd of June, an armament of 150 sail of men- of-war and other vessels, with 14,000 troops, appeared before Louis- burg. The place was then very strongly fortified, and defended by a garrison of 3,000 men, six ships of the line, and five frigates. The most dangerous and arduous services were entrusted to the gallant Wolfe, who in the most intrepid manner effected a landing under a heavy fire of the enemy ; and, having gained an important position, he opened newly-erected batteries with great effect upon the interior works of the garrison. One of the French ships blew up by accident, and the fire having been communicated to other vessels, soon destroyed them. Admiral Boscawen entered the harbour with 600 men in boats, captured one ship, and drove another on shore. The daring exploits of the British, the loss of the French fleet, and the breaking down of the walls by the artillery of the assailants, placed the garrison in a hopeless condition, and on the 26th of July the whole of them, with their commander, surrendered themselves prisoners of war. Shortly after this victory, a body of troops, commanded by Lord Rollo, was despatched to the Island St. John (Prince Edward’s Island), where upwards of 4,000 Indians laid down their arms, and promised submission. This successful campaign was followed by another still more brilli- ant in its achievements against Canada. It was put under the com- mand of the brave General Wolfe, who had distinguished himself at Louisbiirg. Quebec was taken, and the country which had so long been the theatre of internal wars, and the scene of much suffering and bloodshed, fell a conquest to British intrepidity and valour. By the treaty of peace concluded at Paris on the 10th February, 1763, France resigned all her claims in North America to Great Britain ; and, not- withstanding the revolt of her own subjects, in a number of her Colonies, during the American Revolution, the Northern Provinces still remain under her maternal care and protection. CHAPTER III. HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF THE EARLY SETTLEMENTS IN NEW BRUNSWICK. Having given a general account of the history of Acadia, a brief view may be taken of the first settlements in New Brunswick. The Fort of La Tour at the Gemsec, and other fortifications on the St. John, with those at Chignecto and Bay Verte, are duly noticed and described by several authors ; but the first attempts at colonisation on the northern side of New Brunswick are scarcely mentioned in history. The atten- tion of England and France, during their struggle to conquer American territory, was directed -to the principal ports along the Atlantic coasts while the first settlements on the shores of the Baie des Chaleurs do not appear to have been recognised by either country, and therefore the history of those settlements is derived more from correct tradition than from any written records on the subject. La Baie des Chaleurs, or Bay of Heats, was discovered by Cartier in 1534 ; but no attempt was made to colonise the northern part of New France until 1638 or 1639, when Mons. Jean- Jacques Enaud emi- grated thither, and occupied a part of the country in the manner already described. Some time in the year 1672 or 1673, and six years after the Treaty of Breda, a number of French families emigrated from St. Maloes in France to the River Miramichi, and opened a settlement at Baie des Vents. About this time small villages began to spring up at Bay Verte, Nequaak, Canadian Point, and other places. A town called Petite Rochelle, with fortifications, was also commenced near the mouth of the Restigouche. At Beaubair’s Point on the Mira- michi, there was a town of 200 houses and a chapel. On Beaubair’s Island, since owned by Messrs. Fraser, there was a battery that com- u 44 NEW BRUNSWICK. manded the river, and at French Fort Cove the fortifications mounted sixteen guns. At Fawcett’s Point the French had a ship-yard, an armoury, and valuable stores.* The Island and Point still hear the name of Mons. Pierre Beaubair, who was Governor or Superintendent of the Colony. In the vicinity of these several places there are evidences of former cultivation, although the inhabitants were chiefiy engaged in hunting and fishing. Their exports were salmon, furs, moose-skins, &c., and their trade was exten- sive. In 1 757, the English cruizers on the coast greatly interrupted their commerce. In this season also their crops failed, and in the suc- ceeding winter they were reduced to a state of starvation. In this calamity, they were visited by a dreadful disease. The fatal malady was supposed to have been introduced in a vessel wrecked near the mouth of Baie des Vents River. The remains of this vessel are still to be seen. The sufferings of these people were still farther increased by the loss of two transports despatched from France with supplies for their relief. Those vessels were taken by the British fleet, which, with the army under General Amherst, captured Louisburg, By the famine and the pestilence eight hundred of the inhabitants died, and the greater number were buried at Beaubair’s Point. From the wearing away of the banks of the river, the graves of many of those unfortunate people have been opened ; and in 1842 the bones of the early French emigrants were seen protruding from the soil, where at present a highway descends to the ferry crossing the north- west branch of the river. Among the first victims to the fatal disease, was Monsieur Beaubair himself. Most of the hahitans who survived fled to Bay Chaleurs, St. John’s Island, and Memnamcook on the Peticodiac. Many of the Indians also perished. The capture of Louisburg by the British pro- duced a panic among the French and Indians, so that almost every village and wigwam was deserted. Only a few persons remained at French Fort Cove, Canadian Point, and Nequaak, which were the principal rallying points for the savages. * Cooney’s History of the Northex’ii Part of New Brunswick and District of Gasp^, pp. 31, 32. i V.;. ■ . ■ NEW BRUNSWICK. After the conquest of Quebec, a vessel having on board the remains of General Wolfe was driven by a gale of wind into Miramichi River. The captain sent a boat and six men on shore to procure water. The boat landed at Henderson’s Cove, and while the men were employed, they were surprised by a party of armed Indians and soldiers from the fort, and inhumanly massacred upon the spot. The captain of the vessel, having ascertained through the medium of the pilot that this murderous act had been committed, resolved to retaliate. He first silenced the battery at the Cove, and then destroyed the settlement at Canadian Point, where, it is said, he killed the miserable wretches that had escaped the famine and the pestilence. In proceeding to sea, he landed at Nequaak, and set fire to a large chapel. From this cir- cumstance the settlement has ever since been called Burnt Church. In 1 760, the French Government made an attempt to regain Quebec, and to strengthen their forces in Canada. Twenty-two store-ships, under a strong convoy, were sent from France, and reached the Gulf of St. Lawrence, where information was received that a British squadron had preceded them up the river. Upon the receipt of this intelligence, the commander of the French fleet took shelter in the Bay Chaleurs, where he was followed by Captain Byron, commanding-oflicer of the British ships at Louisburg. The British squadron consisted of the Fame, Dorsetshire, Achilles, Scarborough, and Repulse. In proceed- ing up Gaspe Bay, the French ship La Catherine was captured, and another vessel was taken near Carraquette. The French comman- der, finding that he was pursued, took shelter in the Restigouche, at the town of Petite Rochelle, where there were two batteries. Cap- tain Byron with much difficulty worked his ships up the river ; and he soon silenced the forts on the shore, and brought the enemy to a general engagement. The French fought bravely, until Monsieur Bourdo, the captain of one of the ships, was killed, and a powder- vessel blew up.* Captain Byron captured and destroyed the whole • During this engagement, two English sailors who were prisoners in one of the French ships jumped overboard and swam to a British ship, unhurt by the musket-balls discharged at them. They immediately went to the guns of their countrymen, and, as might be expected, fought bravely. u 46 NEW BRUNSWICK. fleet, which, besides transports, included the Marchault, of 32 guns ; Esperance, 30 guns; Bienfaisant, 22 guns ; Marquis de Malose, 18 guns ; and several sail of small privateers. He then destroyed all the fortifications, and burned the town of Petite Rochelle, which contained 200 houses. The remains of two French vessels may still be seen at low-water near Mission Point, where several pieces of cannon are par- tially buried in the sand. Near one of the ancient batteries, a gun was recovered a few years ago by Mr. Robert Ferguson. It is a long French 18-pounder, and is now mounted near the residence of that gentleman. At the site of Petite Rochelle, muskets, swords, bomb-shells, with a variety of other warlike instruments, have been found ; and among the ruins of the town, china, silver forks and spoons, and other articles of luxury, have been discovered. The walls, cellars, and foundations of houses may still be traced at the site of Petite Rochelle, which, like many other towns and populous villages in America, was sacrificed to secure the country to the British Crown. Great Britain had now obtained by conquest the whole of North America, excepting only a small Colony on the south side of the Mis- sissippi. The Acadians and Indians therefore gave up all hopes of holding Nova Scotia as the subjects of France, and therefore again tendered their submission. The few French settlers that remained at Miramichi, Richibucto, Shediac, Peticodiac, and other places, appeared before Colonel Frye at Cumberland, and promised faithful allegiance to the British Govern- ment. The Rev. Mr. Manack, a Roman Catholic missionary, with a number of the principal inhabitants and four Indian chiefs, signed a formal declaration and promise of loyalty to the King. They also bound themselves, with those they were sent to represent, to appear at Bay Verte in the succeeding spring, to abide by such decision as might be made by the Governor in their case. During the winter, eight more Indian chiefs surrendered themselves; and the whole Micmac tribe, which then amounted to 6,000 souls, abandoned the cause of France, and became dependent upon the Eng- lish. The following are the names of the Chiefs that signed the obli- gation of allegiance, and their places of abode : — Louis Francis, Chief -1^, k, .jv XV'^^f :*■ k,f^ NEW BRUNSWICK. of Mirainichi ; Dennis Winemowet, of Taboqunkik ; Etienne Abchabo, of Pohoomoosb ; Claud Atanage, of Gediaak ; Paul Lawrence, of La Have ; Joseph Algemoure, of Chignecto, or Cumberland ; John Newit, of Pictou ; Baptiste Lamourne, of St. John’s Island ; Rene Lamoume, of Nalkitgoniash; Jeannot Piquadauduet, of Minas; Augustin Michael, of Richibucto ; Bartlemy Annqualet, of Kishpugowitk.* The above Chiefs were sent to Halifax, and on the 1st of Jul}^ 1761, Joseph Argimault (or, as he was called by the Indians, Argimooch) held a great talk with Governor Lawrence. The hatchet was formally buried, the calumet was smoked, and all the Chiefs acknowledged King George to be their father. The ceremony was conducted with great military display. The officers of the several departments were present, and the inhabitants of the town mixed with the untamed savages of the woods ; the several bands played the national anthem ; the garrison and men-of-war fired royal salutes ; and King George was proclaimed amidst loud acclamations of peace and harmony. The Indians were allowed to retain their possessions, and to exercise their own laws. Thus was the spell that bound these people to the French broken, and the whole continent was subdued by the wisdom of British policy and the power of British arms. Immediately after the above event, settlers from Great Britain and the neighbouring Colonies began to flow into the Province. In 1764, Mr. William Davidson emigrated from the North of Scotland to Mira- michi, and he is sai3 to have been the first British settler that landed at that place. At the time of his arrival, the houses of the French had been abandoned and destroyed, and the Indians were lords of the soil. In the following year, Mr. Davidson obtained a grant of land from the Government of 100,000 acres, situated on the south-west branch of the Miramichi River. He was afterwards joined by a Mr. Cort, from Aber- deen. These two persons caught from 1,400 to 1,800 tierces of salmon yearly, and soon commenced a profitable trade. They lived upon good terms with the aborigines, until the common cement of the American • Taboqunkik is the original name of Taboointac, now called Tabosintac. Pohoomoosb is now called Pugmouche, and Gediak alludes to Shediac. Nal- kitgoniash means, Antigonish ; and Kishpugowitk, Kishoubuguaak. ■'!l ,'ni NEW BRUNSWICK. Revolution, when the savages, who had previously been restrained by their own treaty of peace made at Halifax, and the exertions of the Missionaries, now displayed their flags, sounded the whoop and, ell of war, and bade defiance to the pale faces of the east. They burned tw'o houses, destroyed the cattle, and robbed Mr. Cort s store of 700 moose-skins. They declared themselves in favour of the American rebels, and opened a correspondence with the Revolutionists. Under these distressing circumstances, Davidson and the few persons belonging to his establishment applied to the Government at Halifax for relief ; but up to the summer of 1777 no aid was obtained. The Indians were holding a Grand Council at Bartibog Island, and had resolved upon the death of every individual belonging to the infant settlement. While the Council was sitting, and Davidson and his asso- ciates were making preparations to escape, the Viper sloop-of-w’ar, commanded by Captain Harvey, appeared in the Bay. She had cap- tured the American privateer Lafayette, and in order to decoy the savages, she was sent up the river under American colours. But the Indians were too chary to be deceived by this stratagem, and, by as- suming the character of pirates, they resolved to make a prize of the vessel. Upwards of thirty of them were allowed to come on board. After a desperate struggle, they were overpowered ; and such as were not killed in the afiray were put in irons. Among these desperadoes was one named Pierre Martin, whose strength and savage courage were truly characteristic of his tribe. Two marines were unable to bind him, and he nearly strangled two others with whom he was engaged. After he had received several severe wounds, he tore a bayonet from the hands of a sailor, and missing his thrust at one of his opponents, he drove the weapon through one of the stancheons of the vessel. Covered with wounds, the savage at last fell, as was supposed to rise no more ; but even in his dying moments, when his flesh was quivering under deep sabre-cuts, and his body was bathed in blood, he sprang to his feet, and fastened himself upon the throat of one of his companions, upbraiding him with cowardice. He had almost strangled the trem- bling Indian, when he was despatched by one of the crew. The wretches thus taken were sent to Quebec, and nine of them were after- wards put on board a vessel bound to Halifax. On her passage the NEW BRUNSWICK. 49 vessel engaged an American privateer. Etienne Bamaly, one of the prisoners, requested leave to fight for King George. Permission was given him his irons were removed, a musket put in his hands, and he killed at two different times the helmsman of the American cruizer. The English gained the victory ; and when the prize was brought to Halifax, Bamaly was liberated on account of his bravery.* Of sixteen Indians carried away, only six ever returned to Miramichi : among these were two villains called Knives and Tax, who afterwards mur- dered two men and a boy.-j- On another occasion, the English inhabitants of Miramichi would have been destroyed by the Indians, except for the timely arrival of Monsieur Cassanette, a Roman Catholic priest, who checked them in their diabolical determination. The Julian family also frequently employed themselves in restraining their tribe from acts of violence. + Some time after the taking of Quebec, a Mr. Walker, from Scotland, opened a settlement at Alston Point, on the north side of Bathurst Harbour. Among the persons who accompanied Mr. Walker, was John Young, an Englishman, who a few years ago was still alive, and was then nearly 100 years old. The trade of the settlement consisted of fish, furs, moose-skins, and the hides, oil, and tusks of walruses. This settlement also suffered much from the outrages of the Indians, and during several years the inhabitants kept themselves in readiness for an attack. After the American Revolution had commenced, several privateers entered the Bay, and took and destroyed property to the amount of ^10,000. Two of these privateers were afterwards sunk off Roc Perce by two English gun-brigs, the Wolf and the Diligence. Notwithstanding the French and Acadians had from time to time fallen into different hands, and had been more than once driven from their possessions by the British, to whom they had been unfaithful, there were always a few families who remained in almost every district. * Cooney, p. 46. t The author has a letter in his possession from Michael Franklin to James White, Esq. corroborating the statement of this affair. t The descendants of the old Julian family are still residing at Burnt Church, or Nequaak. E NEW BRUNSWICK. 50 Wlien troubles arose, they fled into the forests, and lived with the natives ; and in times of peace they returned to their lands, and re- sumed their occupations. Many of those also who had escaped to other places during war, when favourable opportunities occurred, returned to the places they had cleared and cultivated. As early as 1670 there were French settlements on every side of Bathurst Harbour, at Grande Ance, and Caraquette. In the above year Mr. Charles Doucette established himself on Little River; and it was observed by him and other respectable persons of his day, that many of the French and Acadian settlers were then in very com- fortable circumstances. One of the oldest settlements in the County of Gloucester is at Caraquette. Two brothers by the name of La Roc, from Lunaire, and two other individuals, named Burton and St. John, natives of Bretagne, began a settlement at that place in 1768. The present Acadian inhabitants of New Brunswick are chiefly descendants of people from Cape Breton, Prince Edward’s Island, Cumberland, Minas, and other parts of Nova Scotia. In 1760, James Simonds, Esq. visited the River St. John, with the intention of establishing a fishery at that place ; but the hostility of the Indians and Acadians compelled him to return to New England. In 1764 he was joined by Mr. James White and Captain Francis Pea- body,* who, with a small party of fishennen, arrived at the site of the present city of St. John on the 16th April. At this time the whole surface of the country was covered by a dense forest, and scarcely a tree had been felled where the city now stands. Shad, salmon, alewives, and other kinds of fish were then abundant ; and they soon commenced a trade in fish, furs, and moose-skins. The first English settlement made on the St. John was at Maugcr- ville. In 1766 a number of families in Massachusetts obtained from the Government a grant of a township on the St. John, and imme- diately removed to the above place, now known as the County of Sun- * Mr. Simonds was the father of the present Honourable Charles Simonds. Mr. White was an Ensign in a regiment of foot, and the father of the present James White, Esq., High Sheriff of the City and County of St. John. Captain Peabody afterwards settled at Maugerville, where he left a numerous race of descendants. NEW BRUNSWICK. 51 bury. At difFerent times during the American Revolutionary "War, they were reinforced by families from New England. The first com- mission of the peace for this new settlement is dated 11th August, 1766, and the Courts of Common Pleas were held in Sunbury until 1783, when Fredericton was made the seat of Government.* Up to this period the above county included the whole of the country now known as New Brunswick. The first inhabitants erected a fort at Oromucto. The sufferings and hardships endured^y these people, from the time of their first landing up to the close of the Revolutionary War, can scarcely be conceived by persons accustomed to civilised life. For many years they were con- stantly exposed to the depredations of the Indians, and their lives were often in jeopardy. It was not until after many years of hard toil and severe suffering had passed, that they were able to live in any degree of peace and comfort. In 1783 they amounted to 800 souls. After the breaking out of the American Rebellion, the Revolutionists pillaged every unfortified village in Nova Scotia. A party of rebels from Machias burned Fort Frederick at the mouth of the River St. John, and on the site of the present town of Carlton. Simonds and White had erected small houses at the foot of the eminence now called Fort Howe Hill : at these houses and their inmates the rebels wantonly discharged a number of cannon-shot, having previously robbed the place of every valuable article they could discover. Next season they induced the Indians to join them ; and the Chiefs of the tribes on the St. John entered into a special contract at Bos- ton to aid their cause, and destroy the British. No less than six hundred warriors assembled near the Gemsec, with hostile intentions. The inhabitants of Maugerville being, therefore, placed in a most perilous condition, took refuge in their little fort at Oromucto. The few families at St. John, who were joined by Mr. William Hazen about this time, were also in imminent danger of being murdered. In this state of things, Mr. Michael Franklin was" despatched from Halifax to the River St. John, and was successful in obtaining the treaty the Indian Chiefs had signed at Boston, and in renewing the articles of • Notitia of New Brunswick, p. 107. E 2 gg NEW BRUNSWICK. peace they had entered into with the British. Messrs, White and Hazen, who were also engaged in the work of reconciliation, were captured by the savages, and had nearly perished before they were liberated. So faithless were the Indians, that they assembled again in 1779 ; and they were not appeased until they had received promises of large presents.* This was the last attempt of an Indian war, • The following original letter and invoice were presented to the author by James White, Esq. High Sheriff of St. John ^ To the Chief Captains and Principal Indians of the River St. John. “ Brethren, — I am much concerned I cannot see you, as I intended, on the 25th of this month ; but Major Studholm will meet you for me, who will tell you the sentiments of my heart. “ Brethren,— King George wants masts for his ships, and has employed people to provide them on the River St. John, depending on you to protect the workmen in cutting them and conveying them to Fort Howe. ‘‘ Brethren,— The Governor sends you some presents which Major Studholm will deliver you. They are intended to bind fast your promise, that you will protect the mast-cutters. ‘‘ Brethren,— King George, my gracious master, has sent me a large quantity of presents for you; they are on the water on their way to Halifax. When they arrive, I shall deliver them to you in person. “ These presents the King gives you for your delivering up to me the treaty you had entered into with the Council of Boston. “ I salute you, and am your affectionate Brother, (Signed) ^‘Michael Franklin.’* “ Windsor, 18th May, 1780.” “ Invoice of sundry Articles shipped at Windsor the 4th instant, on the schooner Menaquasha, Peter Uousett master, for Fort Howe, by order of Sir Richard Hughs, Commissioner of His Majesty’s Navy, to be given as presents to the Indians of the River St. John and its neighbourhood, by Major Stud- holm, in such manner and proportions as he shall think proper, to induce the said Indians to protect the workmen and others in providing masts for the King’s Navy, viz. “ 50 pair blankets. 40 shirts. 1 piece blue stroud. 6| yds. blue and scarlet cloth. 100 rings. 200 flints. 54 yds. riblon. NEW BRUNSWICK. 53 During the above period, the Americans had spread disaffection in Nova Scotia ; and even in the infant state of the setUements of the River St. John, an individual was found to guide the rebellious mal- contents of the revolted Colonies tlu-ough the woods, in order to take Fort Cumberland. This expedition failed,* * and a scrupulously- humane Government has not remembered the fact against the ring- leader, nor his descendants. The people of Truro, Onslow, and Londonderry, in Novia Scotia, all except five, refused to take the oath of allegiance, and therefore their deputies were excluded from the House of Assembly. In King’s County, Nova Scotia, a liberty-pole was cut and made ready to be hoisted, when the arrival of a detachment of the King’s Orange Rangers put an end to all disaffected movements. With the increase of population there has been an increase of loyalty, although there are many at the present day enjoying the favours of the Government who would not venture to make any appeal to the loyalty of their fore- fathers. On the 21st January, 1783, a treaty of peace was signed between Great Britain, France, and Spain. The war being thus ended, several 2 \ cwt. shot.Q 3 pieces blue stroud. 3 pieces white kersey. 60 milled caps. 40 worsted do. 50 castor hats. 2i cwt. shot. 100 yds. embost serge. 1 barrel gimpowdcr. 100 hoes, 1 cask of wine sent by Mr. Franklin for the squaws, and such men as do not drink rum. (Signed) Michael Franklin.” “Windsor, 18th May, 1780.” • One of the party referred to here stole quietly in a dark night up to the walls of the fort, and, being upon all-fours, the British sentinel espied him, and mistook him for a bear. He fired and killed the spy, who was brought in dead next morning. The assailants took to their heels when they heard the report of the sentinel’s gun, 54 NEW BRUNSWICK. thousands of disbanded troops were removed from New England to New Brunswick, A number of Acadians who had established them- selves at Fredericton were ordered to remove, for the purpose of ac- commodating a body of discharged soldiers. Those poor people, who had long been the sport of fortune, were finally settled at Madawasca, where their descendants now occupy an extensive and tolerably well- cultivated district. It had been supposed that the Acadians, who had been driven from Fredericton, had at last found a resting-place; but in the recent settlement of the Boundary dispute, one part of Madawasca District has been assigned to Great Britain, and the other to the United States ; and the divisional line has placed the same people under two difierent Governments. Ill the above year great numbers of loyalists and refugees also removed to the Province, and the general improvement of the country commenced with extraordinary vigour. The Government offered every protection and assistance to those who had left their native homes, and sacrificed in many instances the ties of consanguinity and affection to their King and the British Constitution. Each family received a certain quantity of land ; and provisions were supplied to the destitute, until by their labour they should be able to maintain themselves. In 1784, New Brunswick was separated from Nova Scotia, and made a distinct Government. General Carlton was appointed Go- vernor on the 16th of August of the same year, and during his administration he made every effort to improve the state of the country. The Government has since been administered by a number of persons styled Lieutenant-Governors, or in their absence or demise by the senior member of the Executive Council for the time being. V Administration of the Government of the Province of New Brunswick. NAME. TITLE. PERIOD OF ADMINISTRATION. Died in the Gov’ment. Thomas Carlton, Esq Ditto Gabriel G. Ludlow, Esq Edward Winslow, Esq Major-General Martin Hunter Lieutenant Colonel George Johnstone Major-General Martin Hunter Major-General William Balfour Major-General Martin Hunter Major-General George Stracey Smyth Major-General Sir Thomas Saumarez . Major-General George Stracey Smyth . Lieutenant-Colonel Harris W. Hailes Major-General George Stracey Smyth . Ward Chipman, Esq. . . . . John Murray Bliss, Esq. Major-General Sir Howard Douglas, Bart. William Black, Eso. . . . Major-Gen. Sir Arch. Campbell, Bt. G.C.B. Major-Gen. Sir John Harvey, K.C.H., C.B. Sir William Macbean George Colebrooke, K.H. • . . . . . Capt.-General and Gov.-in-Chief Lieutenant-Governor . / President of H.M. Council, and \ \ Commander-in-Chief . ./ Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto President and Comm.-in-Chief . Ditto Ditto Ditto Lieut.-Gov. and Comm.-in-Chief President and Comm.-in-Chief . Ditto Lieut.-Gov. and Comm.-in-Chief President and Comm.-in-Chief . Lieut.-Gov. and Comm.-in-Chief Ditto j- Ditto 1 From Aug. 16, 1784, to Oct. 29, 1786 „ Oct. 30, 1786, to Oct. 4, 1803 „ Oct. 5, 1803, to Feb. 12, 1808 „ Feb. 20, 1808, to May 23, 1808 „ May 24, 1808, to Dec. 16. 1808 „ Dec. 17, 1808, to Apr. 27, 1809 „ Apr. 28, 1809, to Sep. 10, 1811 „ Sep. 11, 1811, to Nov. 13, 1811 ,, Nov. 14, 1811, to Junel4, 1812 ,, JunelS, 1812, to Aug. 16, 1813 „ Aug.17.1813, toAug.l3, 1814 „ Aug. 14, 1814, to June24, 1816 ,, June 25, 1816, to June30, 1817 „ July 1, 1817, to Mar. 27, 1823 „ Apr. 1, 1823, to Feb. 9,1824 „ Feb. 21, 1824, to Aug. 27, 1824 „ Aug. 28, 1824, to Mar.29, 1829 „ Mar.30, 1829, to Sept. 8, 1831 „ Sept. 9, 1831, to May 1, 1837 „ May 1, 1837, to Apr. 26, 1841 ,, Apr. 26, 1841; now adminis- tering the Government. Died. Died. Died. Died. NEW BRUNSWICK. NEW BRUNSWICK. 56 In the year 1809 a duty was laid on Baltic timber, while that of the Colonies was left free. From this circumstance the trade of the Province rapidly increased ; and although the commerce of New Bruns- wick has been occasionally checked by over-trading and rash specula- tions, the country is in a prosperous condition. For the gifts made to the Loyalists, Great Britain has been amply compensated in the commerce of the country, and the loyalty of its inhabitants ; and the hardships and suffering endured by the faithful subjects of the Crown have been rewarded with almost universal prosperity. CHAPTER IV. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF NEW BRUNSWICK. New Brunswick lies between 45® 5" and 48® 20" of North latitude, and between 63® 50" and 68® of West longitude. It extends nearly north and south, and forms an irregular square between Nova Scotia and Canada. It is bounded on the north by the Bay Chaleurs and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, which separate it from Gaspe west by the E estigouche River, or boundary of Canada. On the east it also extends to the Gulf, or Northumberland Straits. A narrow peninsula joins it to Nova Scotia on the south-east, and it is separated from that Pro- vince on the south by the Bay. of Fundy. On the west it meets the State of Maine. It contains about 26,000 square miles, or 16,500,000 acres : 6,000,000 of acres have been granted ; 10,500,000 remain not granted ; and of that quantity about 9,000,000 of acres are fit for cultivation. Disputed Territory, It was not until after the peace between Great Britain and the United States had been ratified in 1815, that the Americans began to occupy a tract of country situated between the State of Maine and New Brunswick, since known as the Disputed Territory. As early as 1783 the British had settled a party of Acadians at Madawasca, and they had exercised jurisdiction over the country from its first discovery, except at those periods when it was held by the French as forming a part of ancient Acadia, or Nova Scotia. The vague terms employed in the treaties between the two Govern- ments respecting the north-western boundary of the Province began to attract the attention of some of the inhabitants of the Northern States. At first a kind of undefined title was set up to certain lands 58 new BRUNSWICK. southward of the St. John, and finally their claim was extended north- ward to the high lands that overlook the St. Lawrence. That the framers of the Treaty of 1783, and the treaty itself, never contemplated such a claim, is certain ; and it was only by the imperfect phraseology of the article establishing the boundaries, that the Americans hoped to be successful in extending their north-eastern frontier. The treaty declares that the north-west boundary of Nova Scotia, which then ^included New Brunswick, shall be “ formed by a line drawn due north from the source of the St. Croix to the high lands which divide those rivers that empty themselves into the River St. Lawrence from those which fall into the Atlantic Ocean, to the north-westernmost head of Connecticut River.” The words which form a part of the treaty were written without any knowledge of the country they were intended to dispose of. Instead of one chain of high lands from which the waters fall in opposite directions into the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, there are two, and between them is situated the territory that was in dispute. The British insisted upon making one of those chains the line, and the Americans the other ; and thus a controversy arose that had nearly involved the two nations in a war. All the rivers on the south side of the British line do fall into the Atlantic Ocean ; but on the northern side of that line they flow into the St. John, and not into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The line claimed by the Americans was also at variance with the treaty ; for from one of its sides all the waters fall into the St. Lawrence, and from the other they decend into the Restigouche, opening into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and into the St. John, opening into the Bay of Fundy. But the treaty contemplated “reciprocal advantages” and “ neutral convenience” upon “principles of liberal equality and reciprocity.” With such principles the territory in dispute would be assigned to the British ; and the whole history of the country, from its earliest date to the present time, clearly gives Great Britain a just title to all the lands she has now given away to the American States. Even a brief review of the Reports and other works that have been written on the subject would occupy a volume. The Messages of the Governors of Maine had teemed with invective against the British, for holding what they had always possessed ; and the Congress of the NEW BRUNSWICK. 59 United States was yearly pressed with this vexatious question. The intemperate portion of the American press also found in the “ disputed territory ” an ample field for animadversion, until the agitation required to be appeased by the final adjustment of the line between the two Powers. Although an able work was written on the subject by a gentleman at St. John, and the press of the British Colonies occa- sionally toufched upon the dispute, the Legislature of New Brunswick appeared to view the matter with indifference, until they found it necessary to place a sum of money at the disposal of the Government, to prevent the farther encroachments of the poeple of Maine, and to prepare for a threatened Border war. A Commission was appointed to establish the line, under Jay’s Treaty, in 1794. The Commissioners agreed in regard to the identity of the St. Croix, and established the boundary along that river and the Cheputnaticook to its source, and thence to Mars Hill. From that point the American Commissioners insisted upon extending the due-north line to the River Metis, falling into the St. Lawrence. The British declared Mars Hill to be the north-west angle of Nova Scotia, and at that point the due-north line should have terminated. From Mars Hill a continuous chain of mountains and hills separates the sources of the Penobscot, Kenebec, and Androscoggin Rivers, which fall into the Atlantic, from the branches of the St. John, falling into the Bay of Fundy, and the Chaudiere, and other streams, descending into the St. Lawrence. Whatever may be the language of the treaty, these are evidently the high lands to which it alludes as being the boundary. From this dis- agreement the Commissioners abandoned the work, and the question remained unsettled. By the Treaty of Ghent of 1815, a provision was made for the final settlement of the question ; and the whole matter in dispute was re- ferred to the King of the Netherlands, who was chosen an arbitrator between the two Powers. After hearing the arguments, and examining the reports on both sides, his Majesty took a common course in such cases, and, to use an American expression, “ split the difference between the contending parties. The line of the award extended from the source of the St. Croix GO new BRUNSWICK. due north to the St. John, thence along the middle of the “ Thalweg (deepest channel of that river) to the St. Francis, and thence along certain lines marked on maps to the north-westernmost source of Con- necticut River.* Notwithstanding the astringent clauses of the Treaty of Ghent to make the decision of the King of the Netherlands binding and con- clusive, it was not agreed to by the American Government, and the whole matter being thrown open, soon became a source of strife and contention on the borders, and endangered the peace of the two nations. In the mean time, the Government of the State of Maine spared no pains or expense in obtaining an accurate knowledge of the country. Topographical and geological surveys of the “ disputed territory” were authorised, and the information gained by her own people afterwards afforded the United States a great advantage in the final settlement of the question. In July 1839, Lieu ten tant- Colonel Mudge, of the Royal Engineers, and Mr. Featherstonhaugh, were appointed Commissioners to examine and report upon the boundary. The professional celebrity of the former gentleman would attach great weight to the Report made afterwards ; but the time allowed to survey an extensive wilderness region was far too short for him to perform the task, and the work appears to have been assumed by his colleague, who spent a few weeks near the territory in dispute, and then compiled the Report. Although this ex-parte survey cost the Government a large sum of money, it was not attended with any good results. Some of the state- ments in the Report were found to be incorrect ; the charge made against the former Commissioners was unfair, and but few of the facts stated were collected by persons employed in the survey. The Americans, ever ready to avail themselves of a favourable circumstance, made tlie Report a subject of severe criticism, and an instrument to weaken the British claim. While Great Britain was expending large sums of money in negotia- tions, commissions, surveys, explorations, &c., the people of the United See Map. NEW BRUNSWICK. 61 States were taking possession of the territory in dispute. Tliey crossed the high lands separating the waters that flow into the St. John from those that flow through the American territory into the Atlantic, and pitched their tents upon the Aroostook, where they erected Fort Fair- field. They also built another fort a few miles above Madawasca ; they granted the lands, made roads, and opened settlements in a tract of country which justly belonged to Great Britain. In 1842 a Border war was threatened, and Lord Ashburton was despatched to America with power to settle the Boundary Line. After much negotiation, the matter was amicably disposed of, but with a great sacrifice on the part of Great Britain. The line established by the Ashburton Treaty does not differ materially from that awarded by the King of the Netherlands but while it has secured to England a communication between New Brunswick and Canada, it has yielded to the Americans a vast tract of excellent land and timber, and also the navigation of the St. John, along which munitions of war may be sent by the Republic into the very heart of a British Province previous to the outbreak of hostilities. The President of the United States, in his Message to Congress in 1845, has said in reference to the Oregon question, and the navigation of the Columbia River, that “ the right of any foreign power to the free navigation of any of our rivers through the heart of the country was one” he “was unwilling to concede.” If such are the views of the President and the people of the United States in regard to a river to which they have no claim, how must Lord Ashburton blush when he considers that he gave away the navigation of the St. John to that same power, and to those who had never claimed it ! The following facts are derived from indisputable authority. “ The sentiments advanced by the senators during the secret dis- cussion in the United States Senate, in August 1842, on the question * The territory in dispute between the two Powers contained 12,029 square miles, or 7,697,280 square acres : of these by the Ashburton Treaty the United States obtain 7,015 square miles, equal to 4,489,600 acres, and England 5,012 square miles, or 3,207,680 acres. By the line of the King of the Netherlands, the United States ^vould have had 7,908 square miles (5,061,120 acres), and England 4,119 square miles (2,036,160 acres). — Vide Map. 62 NEW BRUNSWICK. of ratifying the Ashburton Treaty for the settlement of the Boundary Line dispute, have recently been made public, with some of the induce- ments which led to the approval of the Senate. Among these, a most important document was brought forward by Mr. Rives, Chairman of the Committee on Foreign Relations, who stated, that it was due to the distinguished gentleman (Mr. Jared Sparks, of Boston,) by whom the document referred to was discovered in the Archives of France, while pursuing his laborious and intelligent researches connected with the history of the United States, that the account of it should be given in his own words, as contained in a communication addressed by him to the Department of State. The following is a copy of the communi- cation : — “ ‘ While pursuing my researches among the voluminous papers relating to the American Revolution in the Archives des Affaires Eir an- ger es in Paris, I found in one -of the bound volumes an original letter from Dr. Franklin to Count de Vergennes, of which the following is an exact transcript : — “ ‘ Passy, December 6, 1782. “ ‘ Sir, — I have the honor of returning herewith the map your Excellency sent me yesterday. I have marked with a strong red line, according to your desire, the limits of the United States, as settled in the preliminaries between the British and American Plenipotentiaries. ** ‘ With great respect, I am, &c. “ ‘ B. Franklin. “ * This letter was written six days after the preliminaries were signed ; and if we could procure the identical map mentioned by Franklin, it would seem to afford conclusive evidence as to the meaning affixed by the Commissioners to the language of the treaty on the subject of the boundaries. You may well suppose that I lost no time in making inquiry for the map, not doubting that it would confinn all my previous opinions respecting the validity of our claim. In the geographical department of the Archives are sixty thousand maps and charts — but so well arranged with catalogues and indexes, that any one of them may be easily found. After a little research in the American division, with the aid of the keeper, I came upon a map of North Ame- rica, by D’Anville, dated 1746, in size about eighteen inches square, 1 ^ NEW BRUNSWICK. on which was drawn a strong red line through the entire boundary of the United States, answering precisely to Franklin’s description. The line IS bold and distinct in every part, made with red ink, and appa- rently drawn with a camel-hair pencil, or a pen with a blunt point. There is no other colouring on any part of the map. ‘ Imagine my surprise on discovering that this line runs wholly south of the St. John, and between the head waters of that river and those of the Penobscot and Kennebec. In short, it is exactly the line now contended for by Great Britain, except that it concedes more than IS claimed. The north line, after departing from the source of the St. Croix, instead of proceeding to Mars Hill, stops far short of that point, and turns off to the west, so as to leave on the British side all the streams which flow into the St. John between the source of the St. Croix and Mars Hill. It is evident that the line from the St. Croix to the Canadian high land is intended to exclude all the waters running into the St. John. There is no positive proof that this map is actually the one marked by Franklin; yet, upon any other supposition, it would be difficult to explain the circumstances of its agreeing so perfectly with its description, and of its being preserved in the place where it would naturally be deposited by the Count de Vergennes. I also found an- other map in the Archives, on which the same boundary was traced in a dotted red line with a pen, apparently coloured from the other. “ I enclose herewith a map of Maine, on which I have drawn a strong black line, corresponding with the red one above mentioned. “ ‘ Jared Sparks.* “ Not only do this document and the map referred to go directly to prove that the original line claimed by the British was the line under- stood by the Plenipotentiaries of both countries when the treaty of peace was concluded, but this undeniable fact is corroborated by proof from the archives of an American Statesman. — Mr. Rives said “ * A map has been vauntingly paraded here, from Mr. Jefferson’s collection, in the zeal of opposition, (without taking time to see what it was,) to confront and invalidate the map found by Mr. Sparks in the Foreign Office at Paris ; but the moment it is examined, it is found to NEW BRUNSWICK. contain, by the most precise and remarkable correspondence, in every feature, the map communicated by Mr. Sparks! The Senator v,ho produced it could see nothing but the microscopic dotted line running off in a north-easterly direction; but the moment other eyes were applied to it, there was found, in bold relief, a strong red line, indicating the limits of the United States according to the treaty of peace, and coinciding, minutely and exactly, with the boundary traced on the map of Mr. Sparks. That this red line, and not the hardly-visible dotted line, was intended to represent the limits of the United States, accord- ing to the treaty of peace, is conclusively shown by the circumstance, that the red line is drawn on the map all around the exterior boundary of the United States ; through, the middle of the Northern Lakes, thence through the Long Lake and the Rainy Lake to the Lake of the Woods, and from the western extremity of the Lake of the Woods to the River Mississippi ; and along that river to the point where the boundary of the United States, according to the treaty of peace, leaves it, and thence, by its easterly course, to the mouth of the St, Mary’s on the Atlantic.’ “ With such evidence of the correctness of the position taken by the British Government in the possession of the American Cabinet, the readiness of these wily statesmen to assent to a proposition by which they would knowingly overreach honest and unsuspecting John Bull is easily accounted for ; and Britain must only blame herself in being so unprepared to defeat the designing trickery of which, in the present instance, she has been the subject. We envy not the feelings of the American people, however, in the matter : the nations of the w'orld must view with merited indignation and disgust a Government which could stoop to such meanness ; but it appears to be merely an ap- proval, in high places, of the repudiating system adopted by public bodies and States of the Union,— which, it is to be hoped, will yet meet with its reward.” In the settlement of the question, the principle that a British sub- ject could never be alienated from his allegiance to his native country has been violated, and the people of Madawasca have been bartered as if they were common articles of traffic. NEW BRUNSWICK. 65 From a humane desire to preserve peace, the treaty was received in the Provinces with silent coolness, which has been mistaken for satis- faction ; and whatever may be the claims of Lord Ashburton to the praise of an enlightened statesman and politician, the above treaty reflects no credit upon his ability, and is disgraceful to the country that invested him with the powers of reconciliation. The boundary between New Brunswick and Canada East has never been determined by actual survey, or with a proper regard to the physical geography of the country, which seldom agrees with the general terms employed in treaties. Now that the American line has been explored and marked, the fixing of a permanent boundary between the Provinces above named is necessary to prevent disputes, and by it the timber revenues of New Brunswick will be increased or diminished. In a proclamation, bearing date October 7th, 1763, the boundary of Quebec is thus described : “ The said line, crossing the St. Law- rence and Lake Champlain in 45 degrees of North latitude, passes along the high lands which divide the rivers that empty themselves into the St. Lawrence from those which fall into the sea, and also* alon#v>*'V ‘ . ^/Av%»y»v> 72 new BRUNSWICK. tended by the former treaty to be the boundary between New Bruns- wick and the State of Maine. They are supplied by numerous lakes and rivulets, and drain a large tract of intervale and other excellent land. Above the Grand Falls, the St. John receives Grand River, Green River, the St. Francis, and the Madawasca. It is here navi- gable for large boats, and its tributaries alFord an easy communication for canoes, rafts of timber, &c. The Grand Falls of the St. John are situated 200 miles from its mouth, and 125 miles above Fredericton, the seat of government. Having the bulk of its waters greatly increased by the influx from its branches, the river sweeps through the Acadian settlements at Mada- wasca, and expands itself into a beautiful basin immediately above the cataract. This basin aflbrds a safe landing-place for rafts of timber, boats, and canoes ; but it is suddenly contracted, and the river, after making a detour to the south, is then poured into a deep rocky gorge only 250 feet wide. From a peculiar excavation in the rock, the water falls into the gorge from the front and from each side, and the river makes a leap of 58 feet over a perpendicular cliff of calcareous slate. Smooth to the shelving brink a copious flood Rolls fair and and placid, where, collected all In one impetuous torrent, down the steep It thundering shoots, and shakes the country round ; Dash’d in a cloud of foam, it sends aloft A hoary mist, and forms a ceaseless shower ; With wild infracted course and lessen’d roar. It gains a safer bed, and steals at last Along the mazes of the quiet vale. Thomson. In the ascending mist is seen the ever-varying rainbow, and clouds of white spray float over the cataract, whose thundering noise and tremu- lous effects upon the rocks have no remission. On the brink of the Fall the water descends six feet, and it runs so smooth that its surface appears to be oiled. The gorge is three- quarters of a mile long, and is flanked with perpendicular and over- hanging cliffs, from 100 to 150 feet high. It is a narrow and frightful chasm, lashed by the troubled water, and excavated by boiling eddies and whirlpools always in motion ; at last the water plunges in an NEW BRUNSWICK. immense frothy sheet into a basin below, where it becomes tranquil, and the stream resumes its original features. The river seems to be swallowed up by the earth, and again poured forth from a dark sub- terranean channel too narrow to give it vent. In passing along the rocky gorge, the water also decends 58 feet, making the whole fall of the river at this place 116 feet, which is the difference of level between the upper and lower basins. — The descent of a raft of timber over the Falls affords an amusing spectacle. Pieces of pine,* 60 feet in length, will sometimes shoot up into the air endwise almost their whole length, and the largest trees are frequently broken. The projecting rocks along the sides of the gorge produce eddies, into which the timber is often drawn, and where it revolves against the rocks until it is much injured, or ground to pieces. Whole rafts are sometimes detained in these eddies greatly to the loss of the timber-dealers. — The Grand Falls of the St. John are only surpassed in grandeur in British America by the magnificent Cataract of Niagara. Immediately adjoining the river at this place there is a little village. The lands on the small peninsula formed by the bending of the river still belong to the Crown. This place has long been the site of a military post ; and since the settlement of the Boundary dispute, our Government has commenced the erection of fortifications, for which the place is admirably adapted. A new township has also been surveyed, and in a few years this locality will be one of much importance. A bridge may be thrown over the nar- row chasm below the Falls, whereby an easy communication will be obtained between the opposite sides of the river ; and along a ravine that extends nearly across the peninsula, it is practicable to open a canal, with locks, to avoid the Falls, and render the navigation safe.* At the present time, all the goods, boats, canoes, &c. that ascend and descend the river at this place are transported across a portage,f 150 rods between the upper and lower basins. About three and a half miles below the Falls, there are two dangerous rapids. One of these is called Rapid de Femme, from having been • The Grand Falls of the St. John are on the mail route between New Brunswick and Quebec. f A carrying-place. 74 NEW BRUNSWICK. scaled by a woman. They arise from the confinement of the water between high rocky cliffs. The distance between the cataract and the town of Woodstock is 72 miles. This part of the St. John receives two great tributaries, the Aroostook and the Tobique. Besides these, there are the Pecagomik, opposite the village of Wakefield ; the Shictahank, Monquart, and Munic, which flow in from the northward, having taken their rise near the head of the south-west Miramichi. The Presq* Isle and River des Chutes, two small streams, enter from the north-west. The Aroostook is the largest tributary of the St. John ; its sources are at Lakes Millinoket and Millinoketsis, near the head waters of the Penobscot, in the State of Maine. The distance between one of the tributaries of the Penobscot and the Aroostook is only 1.86 rods. This river enters the St. John from tlie westward, eighteen miles below the Grand Falls, and is navigable for boats and rafts of timber 100 miles. In its course, it receives ten minor streams. The river and several of its branches run through an expanded valley of excellent soil, and all the streams are skirted with rich intervales. The pine forests will afford for many years a great supply of the best timber, the chief part of which must be transported down the St. John before it can be shipped for market. By the ratification of the late treaty in the settlement of the Boundary question, the whole of the Aroostook territory was transferred to the Americans. Previous to that period the whole district was almost an uninhabited wilderness ; but its excellent soil and timber soon attracted the people of the United States after the termination of the dispute, and improvements of every kind are now rapidly advancing. Fort Fairfield, belonging to the Americans, is situated five miles from the St. John, where the Boundary line crosses the Aroostook. Three miles below the fort, on the British side, the river passes through a naiTow gorge, where there is a frightful rapid. At the lower part of this rapid there is a Fall of seventeen feet, and die water descends by two steps into a beautiful basin. A rock situated in the middle of the Falls divides the stream, and the cliffs on each side are forty feet high. These Falls, as well as those of the St. John, have retreated some distance, and both of them are still slowly advancing up the rivers that X I NEW BRUNSWICK. ^5 flow over them. Between this place and the main river, there are two dangerous rapids.* The distance between the Grand Falls and the mouth of the Aroos- took is eighteen miles, and the banks of the river can scarcely be said to be inhabited. The lands on each side are hilly. The soil is never- theless very good, and extensive surveys have recently been made in this quarter in order to facilitate the settlement of the new lands. The Tobique River is the next largest tributary to the St, John, and nearly equal to the Aroostook in its extent. Its mouth is twenty miles below the Grand Falls, and two miles below the confluence of the above river with the main stream. The direction of tliis river is to the north-east, and about eighty miles from its mouth it is divided into four branches. One of those branches enters from the south-east, and proceeds from three lakes, the largest of which is about twelve miles in length. These lakes are situated at the principal sources of the Miramichi. The old Indian portage between the waters of the Mira- michi and those of the St. John was only one mile in length. The other branches extend to the northward, and nearly meet the sources of the Upsalquitch and Nepisiguit, emptying into the Bay Chaleurs. All these rivers take their rise in one district, and in the mountainous region already described. As the Tobique River and its tributaries are uninhabited, and offer a wide field for emigrants, a more extended notice of them may be given than of districts already occupied by settlements. At the mouth of the river there is a considerable tract of terraced intervale, which, with several thousands of acres of excellent upland, belong to the Melecete Indians. The islands in the mouth of the river are very productive. There is here an Indian village of twenty-six houses, a chapel, and 200 souls. It is a sort of depot for timber, where frequently in the spring season three or four hundred men are employed • In one of these rapids the Author was placed in imminent peril in 1812, and, notwithstanding the skill of his Indian guide, his canoe passed over a “ pitch ** of six feet, and filled with water. A few days previous, a stranger in a log** passed the upper rapid, and was on the brink of the Fall, when, perceiving his danger, he sprang from his canoe, laid hold of a rock, and saved his life. The canoe was dashed to pieces. / 76 NEW BRUNSWICK. in preparing the rafts to descend the main St. John. The Indians obtain a scanty living by cultivating a few acres of land, rafting timber, fishing, and hunting. In the spring of 1842, two of the Indians were in possession of furs to the amount of £150. They had at that time eighty bear-skins, and thirty pounds of castor. The Indian grant at this place occupies an important situation. As the Melecete tribe do not cultivate their lands, it would be advantageous to this part of the country if an exchange could be made with them, whereby they might enjoy all their privileges, and the trade they now possess at the mouth of the Tabique be opened to improvement by emigrants. Care should be taken that the property of these people should be rendered secure, and not to be placed at their own disposal ; for it is a trait in the Indian character, to put a low value even upon the most fertile soil. Ascending the river, one mile above the Indian village, there is a rapid called the “ Narrows.” The river at this place passes through a chasm a mile long, and upon an average only one hundred and fifty feet wide, and between perpendicular cliffs from fifty to one hundred feet high. Through this opening the water rushes with great violence, and the projecting masses of rock produce violent wliirlpools, so that in tunes of freshets canoes cannot pass, and rafts of timber are fre- quently broken up by being dashed against the cliffs. The gorge is too narrow to vent the water from above— it therefore rises and rushes through the narrow channel with great impetuosity. The navigation of the river at this place may hereafter be greatly improved, by the erection of dams and locks. It is an excellent site for mills and machinery, and a dam may be constructed in such a manner as not to injure the salmon-fishery of the stream. From the mouth of the river to the “ Red Rapids the distance is eleven miles. The water runs at a moderate rate, and large boats may be towed up by horses. There are several small islands, and patches of intervale. The banks of the stream are high, and closely covered with a mixed growth of hard wood and hemlock. Red and white clover, wild roses, onions, peas, wild plums, currants, and gooseberries, grow spontaneously. There are also the balsamic poplar, high cranberry, butternut, and thorn, with a variety of other indigenous plants. NEW BRUNSWICK. 77 The river, by passing over a ledge at the Red Rapids, is again broken. It could, nevertheless, be made navigable for two boats at a trifling expense. In 1837, a number of persons, known as the Tobique Mill Company, built a dam across the river and erected ex- tensive saw-mills at this place ; but before the mills were put in I operation, a part of the dam was carried away, and the undertaking abandoned, ^27,000 having been expended in the fruitless enterprise. It had been intended by the Provincial Government that the road between Fredericton and the Grand Falls should cross the Tobique at this point, and a large sum of money w’as expended between the Rapids and the former place ; but, from a series of objections to this route, the project has been given up.* Twenty miles farther up the river, a tributary flows in from the east, called the Wapskanegan, from the Indian Aw-kee-auc-waps-ka-nee-gan, which signifies “ a river with a wall at its mouth.” This stream runs through a belt of fine intervale and a valley of good upland, and is navigable for canoes twenty miles. Along its banks there is an abim- dance of gypsum and limestone ; these minerals are also abundant on the Tobique. Tliirteen miles above the Wapskanegan there is another large tribu- tary, called by the Indians the Agulquac, which also enters from the east. Between the mouths of those two tributaries, there are Long Island, Diamond Island, and others, consisting altogether of rich alluviums, covered with ash, elm, and poplar. There are also extensive intervales on each side of the river. All the uplands in this quarter are of an excellent quality. The soil, a dark-coloured loam, bears a • Near this place, the Author, on the 5th day of July, 1842, during his ex- ploration of the river, witnessed a most violent tornado. A small cloud rose quickly from the west, and soon spread itself so as to produce almost total darkness. The lightning began to flash from the clouds, and ^harp peals of thunder rattled along the valley, accompanied with a shower of pieces of ice as large as musket-balls. The shower of ice lasted five minutes, and was suc- ceeded by the blast of a hurricane and whirlwind, which tore up the trees, and levelled the forest to the ground. The width of the tornado did not exceed half a mile, and in its course to the east it left an open space of fallen trees, distinctly marking its track. Such tornadoes are very rare in New Brunswick. 78 NEW BRUNSWICK. heavy growth of sugar-maple, yellow birch, hemlock, and pine. The Agulquac is navigable for canoes twenty-five miles. It passes through a fine tract of land, and a belt of intervale. A large area in this dis- trict was overrun by fire in 1825. The dreary appearance of the wilderness after the fire had induced some of the lumbermen to sup- pose that the soil was barren, but there is every evidence of its being fertile. At the base of Blue Mountain the stream is seventy-five yards wide, and the intervales are extensive. The whole country from this place to the main St. John is comparatively level; but from that point northward it assumes a new feature, and becomes elevated. Still proceeding northward, the character of the river, with its inter- vales and islands, remains unchanged, and its beauty is increased by the lofty hills seen in the distance. All the lands on the slopes and along the valleys are fit for cultivation, and many tracts are of a superior quality. The alluviums are covered with elm, balsamic poplar, ash, alder, &c. Wild hay is abundant ; and there are indigenous grapes, wild plums, currants, gooseberries, mint, rhubarb, and wild onions. About eighty miles from its mouth the Tobique is divided into four branches. Where these branches meet, and in the country around them, the lands are still well adapted for settlement. The streams that descend from the lakes to the north-east are blocked up with fallen cedars and “jams *** of trees, which render them altogether unnavi- gable even for light bark canoes. Still farther northward, the country becomes exceedingly mountainous and broken. There are lofty ridges of rock, and fields of granitic boulders, which the industry of man can never render fertile, nor the art of agriculture improve. It is among these mountains, far in the interior, that the native wild animals find a retreat, and the beaver lives in safety within his dwelling. The extreme sources of the Tobique wind their courses among naked and almost inaccessible mountains. Bald Mountain is 2240 feet high, and is surrounded by several lofty cones but little inferior in altitude. • Immoveable rafts of timber. NEW BRUNSWICK. 79 Formerly there were immense groves of white and red pine in the vicinity of this stream, but most of these have been destroyed by fires. Spruce, cedar, larch, and hemlock are still abundant ; and there are fine groves of beech, birch, and maple. In the stream there are seventy islands, all composed of alluvial soil. The river abounds in salmon, trout, and other kinds of fish.* The Tobique is navigable for tow-boats and eanoes 100 miles from its mouth. Between its head waters and the Nepisiguit the portage is two miles. The lands in the region of this river still remain ungranted, and they are better adapted to the circumstances of a respectable class of emigrants and settlers than those of almost any other district in the Province. It would be difficult to form a correct opinion in regard to the climate of the valley of the Tobique country from the experience of a single exploration. From the nature of the plants and their luxuriance, it is evident that the climate is milder there than nearer the coast. From the 5th to the 20th of July, the average range of the thermometer was from 90® to 95® in the middle of the day, and sometimes the mercury would rise to 100® in the shade. There is a great change of temperature in the forest during the night, when the mercury will fre- quently fall to 50® and even to 45® during the hottest season.f In order to facilitate its settlement, the Tobique district might be fonned into new counties and townships, and its lands surveyed into lots of 100 aeres each; but it is not probable that the Provincial Government will make roads through this wilderness country, until settlers have first advanced and taken possession of the lands. J A small branch of the St. John, called the Meduxnakeaq, passes * In 1842, a settler living near the mouth of the Tobique killed twelve barrels of salmon with a single spear ; and they were sold for £5 currency per barrel. t The black dies and mosquitoes, so numerous in the woods, cease to sting when the thermometer is at 95, and also when the mercury descends to 55. — 75 may be called the best biting point of those insects. X Between the city of St. John and Fredericton there are daily steam-boats in the summer season, and steam-boats will hereafter ascend to Woodstock. At present families and baggage are removed in tow-boats, plying on the 80 NEW BRUNSWICK. through the town of Woodstock, where it is crossed by a substantial^ bridge. This river is navigable for rafts of timber and canoes to the distance of twenty miles, and forms a water communication between the above place and Houlton on the American side of the line. Di- rectly below Woodstock, there is a large tract of superior intervale rising from the river by successive steps. Eel River, another tributary, empties itself into the St. John twelve miles below Woodstock. It is about thirty-five miles in length, and proceeds from a beautiful lake to the southward. Between this lake and the north Cheputnecticook Lake, the distance is only three miles. It was along this river and the lakes that the Indians formerly pursued their route from the St. John to the Penobscot. This stream is navi- gable for boats, except near its mouth, and at a fall near the lake ; it passes through a tract of good land, and its banks are skirted with intervales. About ten miles below Woodstock, there is another rapid in the St. John, called the Meductic Falls. The river is narrow, and descends over reefs and boulders of granite, which render the passage of boats difficult and very dangerous to any except skilful pilots. Between Eel River and Fredericton, a number of small streams enter the main river on both of its sides. The Shogamock and Pokiok* come in from the south ; and the Nackawick, Mactaquack, Keswick, and other rivulets, from the north. The Pokiok is fed from a lake in the interior, and is poured into the St. John through a deep and narrow gorge, and over a beautiful waterfall. The Keswick is skirted by some fine alluviums, and its banks were settled by disbanded soldiers shortly after the peace of 1763. The scenery between Woodstock and Frede- ricton is bold ; and the valley of the St. John, being gradually expanded, is occupied by extensive intervales. Although the chief parts of these intervales are cultivated, they still bear lofty elms, and their borders are fringed with low shrubbery. Notwithstanding there are numerous river as far up as the Grand Falls. Those boats may ascend the Tobiqiie in the summer time, or canoes may be procured for that purpose at the mouth of the river. ♦ From the Indian Piquihoak, ** dreadful place.*’ NEW BRUNSWICK. 81 fine farms and luxuriant fields along the flanks of the hills, the surface of the earth presents the aspect of a new country, Fredericton, the capital of New Brunswick, is situated sixty-five miles by land and eighty-five by water above the mouth of the St. John, and sixty-four miles below Woodstock. The river is here three- quarters of a mile wide, and navigable for ships to the sea. Nearly opposite the town there are two streams — the Nashwaak and the Nash- waaksis. The branches of the former nearly meet one of the sources of the Miramichi to the north. This river also abounds in fertile allu- viums, which are met on each side by sloping uplands. Between Fredericton and the mouth of the St. John, the main river resembles a lake. The tide flows to Chapel Bar, four miles above the capital, and seldom rises over fifteen inches. The noble stream is now spread out into small bays, and inlets communicating with lakes, along its margin. In descending, the valley is greatly enlarged, and its whole area is occupied by extensive tracts of alluvial soil, islands, ponds, and creeks, through which the majestic St. John sullenly winds its way, bearing upon its bosom the steamboats and numerous craft of the river. The alluvial banks, as well as the higher grounds, are extensively cul- tivated. The rich meadows are decorated with stately elms and forest- trees, or sheltered by low coppices of cranberry, alder, and other native bushes. Through the numerous openings in the shrubbery, the visitor, in traversing the river, sees the white fronts of the cottages, and other buildings ; and,' from the constant change of position, in sailing, an almost endless variety of scenery is presented to the traveller’s eye. During the summer season, the surface of the water affords an interest- ing spectacle. Vast rafts of timber and logs are slowly moved down- wards by the current. On them is sometimes seen the shanty of the lumberman, with his family, a cow, and occasionally a haystack, all destined for the city below. Numerous canoes and boats are in motion ; while the paddles of the steamboat break the polished surface of the stream, and send it rippling on the shore. In the midst of this land- scape stands Fredericton, situated on an obtuse level point formed by the bending of the river, and in the midst of natural and cultivated scenery. But how is this pleasing prospect changed in autumn, winter, and G 82 NEW BRUNSWICK. spring ! The floods of those seasons cover all the intervales. The valley of the lower St. John, with all its cultivated fields and fertile meadows, is overspread by the water, which sometimes sweeps away houses, bams, stacks of hay, cattle, and everything that is moveable : and when “ ice-jams* * *** occur, the inhabitants themselves are in danger. During the freshet season, some of the people remove to the higher grounds, each having a summer and winter residence. Others live and secure their stock on small islands, or eminences in the midst of the water ; and instances frequently occur when families are driven to the upper stories of their dwellings. At the door of each house is chained a canoe, the only vehicle employed on all occasions. At those periods the valley has a dreary aspect ; the tops of the buildings, lofty trees, and numerous haystacks are seen standing erect in the midst of the inland sea, with steamboats and smaller craft sailing among them in almost every direction. In the middle of winter, the scenery is again changed, and the valley becomes a sheet of ice, traversed by sleds and sleighs to its rem^otest borders. In the month of May, the deluge is withdrawn, and green fields are seen smiling where all had been a scene of desolation. Twelve miles below, another stream, called the Oromucto, enters from the south-west. It proceeds from a remote lake, and drains a fertile tract of country. It was at the mouth of this stream that the first permanent British settlement was made in New Brunswick, and the Courts of Justice were held there until 1783. French and Maquapit Lakes, with the rivulets flowing into them from the north, are discharged into the main stream above Gage town, a vil- lage near the mouth of the Gemsec. The Grand Lake is about forty-five miles from St. John, and thirty from Fredericton. It is separated from the main river by an alluvial tract * Collections of masses of ice that obstruct the passage of the water in the rivers of North America. t It is an extraordinary fact, that some of the farmers on the St. John ob- tain a crop of vegetables and a crop of fish from the same piece of ground annually. Upon such parcels of land they catch their herring during the freshet season; after the water subsides, they plant then with potatoes or grain, which generally succeed well. NEW BRUNSWICK. 83 a mile wide, and communicates with it by the channel called the Gemsec, This beautiful sheet of water is also connected with the two lakes just mentioned by free openings, cut through the alluvium of the intervales. All these lakes and channels are navigable, and no obstacle to the passage of vessels is presented, except in the latter part of summer, when the water is low. From the almost constant current down the lakes, the alluvium made upon their shores, and by the streams emptying into them, is swept onward towards the river ; and it has not only formed extensive tracts of intervale, but also choked up the natural outlets of the water, which is now confined to narrow and deep channels. The Grand Lake is thirty miles long, and from three to six miles in breadth. In it the tide rises six inches. It is not, however, to be supposed that the ocean flows so far up, and into the lake — the effect is produced by the elevation of the sea a few feet above the level of the river at high-water on the coast. The result of that elevation is obvious. The fresh water being prevented from escaping, ac- cumulates, regurgitation takes place, and the lakes and rivers rise, more or less, even a hundred miles above the d^houehement of the stream. The common rise at Indian Town, near the City of St. John, is eighteen inches ; in the Grand Lake, six inches : above Fredericton, or one hundred miles from the Bay of Fundy, the rise disappears alto- gether. From the northern extremity of the Grand Lake, the Salmon River, a beautiful stream, comes in from the north-east, where it nearly touches the sources of the Richibucto, emptying itself into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, The principal outlet of the Grand Lake is called the Gemsec, It is a narrow but deep channel, three miles in length. Although this place is now the seat of rural industry, and not of war, in the early settlement of the country by the French it was the theatre of several bloody engagements. It was the stronghold of the French upon the St. John, and the resort of the savages, who there obtained arms and ammunition to attack the settlements of New England, It was at this spot where the heroic Madame de la Tour bravely defended her garrison during her husband’s absence, and compelled her enemies to retreat, until she was betrayed, when her soldiers were hung and G 2 84 NEW BRUNSWICK. herself tortured by the hatred of Charnisse, her countryman and cowardly conqueror. Six miles below the Gemsec there is another arm of the river, called the Washadamoak. It is a narrow lake, thirty miles in length. It terminates in a river of the same name. The river springs from the head of the Cocagne, and the banks of both are but thinly in- habited. Belle Isle Bay is also a deep inlet, navigable for ships. From this bay the river turns to the south-west, and runs a direct course to the distance of sixteen miles. The alluviums now begin to disappear, and the stream is confined between hills of considerable altitude. This straight section of the St. John is called the Long Reach, which ter- minates in a noble sheet of water known as Grand Bay. This bay also sends out an arm to the north-east, called the Kenebecasis, which receives the Kenebecasis and Hammond Rivers. From the westward the bay takes in a stream from the Nerepis Hills. There is not a river in America of the same extent that has so narrow an outlet as the St. John. From Grand Bay to the Falls, a distance of four miles, this noble stream passes through a crooked channel, at many places not exceeding two hundred and fifty feet in width, while in the interior of the country the stream will average from one to three miles in breadth. The rocky shores of its outlet have not been worn down and scooped out, as is common to all rivers giving passage to great quantities of ice. On the contrary, they appear to have been separated from each other at a period comparatively recent; and the gorge through which the river now passes at Indian Town appears like a deep fissure opened by some sudden movement in the earth. It is probable that the St. John had formerly two mouths, one opening from the Kenebecasis down the present site of the marsh, and the other opening from Grand Bay through the Manawagonish ; but the same causes that opened the new channel have obliterated the old ones. That the whole line of coast westward has been elevated from eighteen to twenty-six feet and upwards, is proved by the marine shells found in the clay and marl beds now elevated the above number of feet above the highest tides. The condition of the Magaguadavic is similar to that of the St. John, whose bed has been raised, and a stream that NEW BRUNSWICK. 85 was formerly in all probability very rapid has become like a lake, from the narrowness of its mouth, which has been changed by causes alto- gether geological.* The Harbour of St. John is neither very spacious nor commodious. From its shallowness and the violence of the current, large ships can- not enter it at low- water. Those disadvantages are in some degree compensated by the elevation of the tides, which are very favourable to shipbuilding and the transportation of timber. The debouchement of the river is between perpendicular walls of limestone, where the channel is only one hundred and fifty yards wide. Its deficiency in space is made up in the violence of the current, which runs with inconceiva- ble swiftness, the waters rushing down a frightful rapid called the “ Falls.** The ordinary tides of the harbour rise below the Falls twenty-six feet ; above the Falls, their common elevation is only about eighteen inches : therefore, the height of the fall outwards is twenty-four feet six inches. But the entrance of the river at the gorge is too narrow to admit the sea on the flood-tide to flow in freely, and therefore there is the singular occurrence of a fall inwards at high-water, and a fall out- wards at low-water. The time for vessels to pass through the narrow opening, or Falls, is fixed at three quarters of an hour at each ebb and flood, or when the sea and river are both at the same level. The fall outwards has been estimated at twenty feet, and at high tides the fall inwards at high-water is fifteen feet, making the whole height of this double fall thirty-five feet. The accumulated waters of this extensive river here rush through a narrow chasm, and descend down a rocky slope into the sea. The current is in some degree checked by two small islands in the basin above. Having passed those islands, the water plunges forward with tremendous fury ; but on the flood-tide the scene is reversed : the ocean spreads its mantle over the cataract ; and, by flowing inwards, it • There is a tradition of the Indians, that the Great Spirit’* once grew angry, and shut up the Looshtook, or St. John. Some of the natives still believe that a gigantic beaver appeared on the earth, and in a single night built a dam across the river, so that all the country above was overflowed. 86 NEW BRUNSWICK. silences the noisy rapid, closes the tide-lock of the Falls, and, in its turn, rolls inwards upon the river. Having passed the Falls, the stream turns suddenly to the eastward, and the water, covered with fleecy masses of foam, mingles with the sea. The next river of much importance emptying itself into the Bay of Fundy is the St. Croix, which forms the boundary between the Province and the United States to its eastern source ; although its western branch w^as the one contemplated as being the line of separation between the two countries ; for as early as 1621 , in the grant made to Sir William Alexander, that river, to its most remote western spring, was declared to be the boundary of Acadia, or Nova Scotia. The Indians always called this river Schoodic, or Schoodeag, which signifies “ low and swampy ground.*' The stream itself emerges from land of that description. The St. Croix, which has already been noticed in the early history of the Province, after passing along the western side of the County of Charlotte, empties itself into Passama- quoddy Bay, at the town of St. Andrew’s. It is here a mile and a quarter wide, and near its centre is the little island upon which De Monts and his party wintered in the early discovery of the country. About ten miles above St. Andrew’s, the river diverges to the west, and a beautiful sheet of water called Oak Bay extends to the north. These, with a small cove and rivulet to the east, are supposed to have given to the first discoverers the idea of a cross, from which the river received its name. It is navigable for large ships to St. Stephen’s, seventeen miles above St. Andrew’s, where it is broken by a fall. At this place and at Milltown, three miles above, the stream is occupied by powerful saw-mills. After running a very irregular course, the river turns to the north- west ; and, about forty miles from its mouth, it is again interrupted by a cataract. The Falls are separated into upper and lower ; between them the water passes over an inclined plane, and rolls over a broken cliff. At the upper Fall, the water rushes through a narrow gorge, and descends twelve feet. The w^aters of the Schoodic and Cheputnecticook Rivers, descending from lakes in the interior, rush over these Falls and the rapid between them with great fury. Large pieces of timber and logs are frequently elevated high above the water, and plunged into the NEW BRUNSWICK. 87 pool beneath. Large trees are sometimes broken in pieces while passing the gorge ; and the sound produced by the concussion of the logs against each other and the rocks is like the noise of distant artillery. From be- ing confined between the cliffs and to a narrow channel, the water rushes forward with frightful impetuosity, until it is poured into the more tranquil part of the stream, the surface of which is always concealed beneath beautiful waves of white foam. Frequently the mouth of the rapid is blocked up with the rafts of the lumbermen, so that the timber cannot pass, and a “ timber jam ” is produced : the clearing away of such jams is the most dangerous and difficult part of the stream-driver’s * employment. Directly above the upper Fall, there are two small islands, situated at the confluence of the Schoodic, or St. Croix, and the Cheputnecticook Rivers. The average breadth of the streams at this place is sixty yards. The Schoodic branch extends westerly into the country recently con- firmed to the State of Maine. Two miles above, on the other branch, there is another dangerous rapid, known as the Cheputnecticook Falls. The whole country in this quarter is uninhabited, and seldom visited except by the lumbermen, and the Indians in search of game. Along the river there are small tracts of low intervale, bearing wild grass suitable for fodder, and very useful to the settler on wild lands. The uplands, which were formerly covered with groves of pine, are fit for cultivation. The Cheputnecticook is a very boisterous river, and broken by numerous rapids and several falls besides those already mentioned. From the mouth of the St. Croix to its first lake, the distance along the stream is upwards of seventy miles. The Cheputnecticook Lakes are about forty-five miles in length ; their breadth is very irregular, being not more than a quarter of a mile at some situations, and ten miles at others. They present a series of narrow straits and wide bays, with deep inlets and creeks. The general course of the chain is about north-west ; and on its northern side there are a great number of deep inlets, all running in the direction of the • Men who float timber down the rivers. 88 NEW BRUNSWICK. main lake. Those inlets, numerous islands, and narrow passages, render the navigation of this beautiful inland basin very intricate. Notwithstanding the water is very deep, and may be navigated by vessels of considerable burthen, vast white granitic boulders rise above the surface, and are also seen at various depths beneath the transparent water. The shores are also lined with boulders, which at many places form natural wharves, with twenty and even forty feet of water around their perpendicular sides. The hills slope gradually down to the shores, where the blocks of white granite appear like solid masonry, and ex- hibit a degree of neatness seldom seen on the borders of lakes in the wilderness. The numerous islands are covered with cedar, hemlock, spruce, and birch. The mountains and hills of the shore bear lofty groves of pine, hemlock, and larch ; elm, ash, and cedar being the pro- ductions of the lower ground. In general, the soil is strong and fertile. Universal gloom and stillness reign over these lakes and the forests around them. From the tops of the highest hills no appearance of a clearing nor any signs of cultivation can be seen — not even the “ log- road” can be traced far from the water, and the only indications of human industry are the naked poles of the lumberman’s deserted camp, and the ancient trails of the Indians. Ornamented with islands and branched with placid bays, the Che- putnecticook is stretched out before the traveller, who here views the country as it was before the European set his foot upon the soil, or the native savage had been deprived of his wild inheritance. At present, these inland sheets of water are the summer resort of numerous species of ducks and other wild fowl. Their shores are also frequented by droves of moose, carriboo, Virginian deer, bears, wolves, and other ani- mals ; and the water abounds with the finest trout, perch, and a species of salmon called togue,^ weighing from fifteen to twenty pounds. From the extremity of the Grand Cheputnecticook Lake there is a narrow passage, a mile long, communicating with the North Lake, into which a stream enters from the northward called Monument Brook. Its source was the site from which the due-north line was taken by the Commissioners under the Treaty of 1814 to settle the boundary. The * Salmo IIucQ of Sir Humphrey Davy. NEW BRUNSWICK. 89 Monument, as it has been called, is a marked cedar-tree. Between the North Lake and Eel River Lake, emptying itself into the River St. John, the distance is only three miles. This was a portage of the In- dians long before the country was discovered by the English. In passing from the St. John to the Penobscot, the natives ascended Eel River, crossing the above portage with their canoes into the before- mentioned lakes, whence another portage of three miles brought them to a branch of the Penobscot. Along this route they transported their arms and provisions from the fort at the Gemsec into New England, to attack and destroy the villages of the British inhabitants. These ancient trails are narrow paths winding among the trees and along the sides of the hills ; and so long have they been travelled, that the solid rocks are now furrowed by the mocassins of the native tribes. Some of the extreme branches of the St. Croix nearly meet the sources of the Magaguadavic, and almost the whole of the interior of this part of the Province may be traversed in a light bark canoe. The Digdeguash is a small rapid stream, not navigable beyond the harbour at its mouth. The Magaguadavic extends from the coast of the Bay of Fundy in a northerly direction across the country almost to the St. John, and the lakes whence it issues nearly communicate with the Shogamock, a small tributary of the latter river. In its course through the uninhabited country, it presents alternate distances of smooth and rapid water, with several falls ; and having passed through a wide plain of intervale at the base of the high lands, it reaches the sea, and opens into a beautiful harbour of the same name. That the site of this intervale w^as at some remote period a lake, there is the most satisfactory evidence. At the chief village, the bed of the river is nearly one hundred feet above the highest rise of the tide, into which the river falls by five successive steps, and through a chasm averaging thirty feet wide and a hundred feet deep. The saw-mills fastened to the sides of the cliffs have greatly modified the appearance of this remarkable spot. Having swept slowly along the valley above, the accumulated water is thrown into the deep and narrow opening, where, spouting from cliff to cliff, and twisting its foaming column to correspond with the rude windings of the passage, QQ NEW BRUNSWICK. it falls in a torrent of foam into the sea ; or, passing beneath the wheels of the mills, its fury is scarcely abated as it mingles with the spray floating above. The river then advances along a narrow passage be- tween rugged clifi’s, and makes its dehouchement into the Bay. The Poclogan, Le Proe, and Musquash are minor streams fed by lakes. At the mouth of the latter there is one of the best harbours in America ; the stream above is bordered by a large tract of marsh. The small streams emptying themselves into the Bay between the Harbour of St. John and Shepody require in this place no particular description. The Peticodiac takes its rise near the sources of the Kenebecasis, and having run in a north-easterly direction forty miles, turns at a right angle, called the Bend.* It then runs to the south twenty miles, and discharges its waters into Shepody Bay. It is navigable for vessels of a hundred tons burthen thirty miles from it» mouth, and large ships are laden at its curve. Here the tide flows in and ebbs off* in six hours, and runs at the rate of seven miles an hour. The flood-tide is accom- panied by a splendid “ bore,” or tidal wave, which at spring-tides is five and sometimes six feet high. The rushing of this overwhelming wave is accompanied by a noise like distant thunder, and affords an interesting spectacle. At low-water, extensive flats of fine sand and shingle are laid bare. From venturing too early on the flood, or too late on the ebb, there is much danger to vessels. In the former case, they are sometimes overrun by the tide and stranded in the quicksands ; and if they resist the fury of the “ bore,” the water washes away the sand from their leeward sides, they roll over before the current, break- ing their masts, and finally filling with shingle, they are buried in the same. These dangers are all avoided by good pilots, and persons who are acquainted with the river seldom meet with accidents. • The tides rise in the Peticodiac as follows: — At the Bend, common tides, 22 feet 8 inches ; highest tides, 28 feet 8 inches. At Dorchester Island, common tides, 36 feet; highest tides, 42 feet. It is three hours flood before the tide reaches the Bend ; and from rushing along the river to the distance of twenty miles, it rises higher here above the lowest level of the sea at Grind- stone Island than it does at Dorchester Island. The difference of level between Grindstone Island and the Bend may be estimated as follows:— Common tides, 45 feet 4 inches ; highest tides, 57 feet 4 inches. NEW BRUNSWICK. 91 The Memramcook, Tantamarre, Aulac, and Missiquash are small rivers which, like the Peticodiac, pass through very extensive marshes. The Great Tantamarre Marsh is situated on both sides of the river of that name. It is about twelve miles long, and, upon an average, four miles wide, being one of the most extensive collections of alluvium formed by the sea in America. In the Parishes of Sackville, Dorches- ter, and Moncton, 4,900 acres of marsh have been rescued from the sea by dikes and embankments. All the streams emptying themselves into Shepody and Cumberland Bays are skirted with alluvial deposits, which are more productive than any other lands in the country. At the eastern extremity of the Tantamarre Marsh, a large tract is occupied by peat, floating bogs, and small lakes. The whole of this extensive area was once open to the sea ; but, from the vast quantities of alluvial matter brought inwards by the tides and winds, the mouth of the estuary has been filled up, and raised several feet above the level of the lands in the interior, which can now only be reclaimed by open- ing canals, and allowing the sea to flow over them. It has long been proposed to open a canal between some of these rivers and Bay Verte or Shediac, the average distance being only fifteen miles, and several surveys have been made of the difierent lines pro- posed. The last exploration and survey of a line of canal to connect the waters of the Bay of Fundy with those of Northumberland Straits, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, was made by Captain Crawley, R.E. From the report of that gentleman, it would appear that there is not a sufficient quantity of water during the summer season to supply a canal at its summit level. It is also apprehended that the opening of a free passage for the tides from one side of the peninsula to the other would be attended with unfavourable consequences ; and the expense of the undertaking is estimated to exceed the profit that would arise from it, if the work should be completed. The enterprise, therefore, although not abandoned by its advocates, remains stationar}-. On the north-eastern shores of New Brunswick, a number of small streams open into Northumberland Straits, between Bay Verte and Richibucto ; and the Shediac, Cocagne, and Buctouche have excellent harbours at their mouths. The Richibucto River has four principal branches, which descend NEW BRUNSWICK. 92 from the uninhabited country to the south. One of those branches approaches within three miles of the Salmon River, flowing in an oppo- site direction into the Grand Lake, the waters of which are discharged into the St. John. It is navigable twenty-five miles from its mouth, where there is a safe and convenient harbour. The Kouchibouguack River empties itself into the Gulf of St. Law- rence, about twenty miles southward of Miramichi Bay. It is about fifty miles in length, and its waters are discharged into a lagoon that forms a good harbour for small vessels. The Miramichi* is the second river in extent and importance of the Province. Its branches, which are very numerous, drain a vast tract of wilderness country, and, by being united as they approach the sea, they form a stream of considerable magnitude. Some of its north-western branches approach the St. John, and almost touch the Nashwaak ; others reach the lands of the lower Tobique. Three of the north-west branches spring from a chain of lakes in the upper Tobique country. Having descended with considerable rapidity from its principal sources, and traversed the forests of the south-west nearly two hundred miles, the branches of the Miramichi unite and become navigable for large ships ; and finally, the river makes its dehouchement into a spacious bay of the same name, in lat. 47® N., and long. 64® 53^ W. The banks of the main stream are settled one hundred miles from the Bay, and the mouths of some of the principal branches are also thinly inhabited ; but remote from the larger tributaries, the country is in its original wilderness state, and millions of acres of land capable of suc- cessful cultivation are covered by dense forests, and even the fine tracts of intervale on the bordefs of the streams to a great extent remain uncleared. Miramichi Bay is twenty miles wide at its mouth ; and although the waters along the coast are shallow, there is a ship channel in the estu- ary from two to four miles broad, and from five to eight fathoms deep. The Bay is decorated with seven islands, and the low sandy shores are inhabited by the descendants of the Acadian French. • Miramichi, in the Micmac Indian language, signifies “ Happy Retreat.** The savages formerly called this river the Restigouchcsis. NEW BRUNSWICK. 0vhole shore is rocky, and frequently bounded by precipitous and over- hanging cliffs. Eastward of St. John there are no harbours of im- portance; but vessels of considerable burthen may enter Black and Quaco Rivers, Ten-mile and Gardner’s Creeks, at high-water. Mispec River has a very pretty haven at its mouth. On all these streams there are saw or flour mills. The saw-mills at Salmon River, with the lands attached thereto, cost upwards of £20,000 currency. The coast is thinly settled ; but at Quaco there is a large village with two meeting- NEW BRUNSWICK. 121 houses ♦ and several ship-yards. This place was first settled by officers and soldiers of the King’s Orange Rangers ; many of whose descend- ants still live in the parish, since called St. Martin’s. The Harbour of St. John is safe, but not very spacious, especially at low-water. The tides rise twenty-six feet, and therefore great facili- ties are afforded for repairing and launching vessels ; for during the retreat of the sea, the shores and a number .of docks are left dry. At such periods there is a strong outward current in the harbour, which, during the flood, is easy of access for the largest ships. From the great quantity of fresh water that descends from the river during the freshets of spring and autumn, a strong and favourable breeze is necessary to enable ships to enter ; in calm weather and head- winds they are fre- quently towed in by steamers. Partridge Island is situated at the mouth of the harbour. On it there are a battery, lighthouse, signal station, and hospital for the accommodation of sick emigrants and sail- ors, who are removed from vessels on their entering the quarantine station. Between the island and the main land westward there is a long narrow bar, dry at low water. A beacon on the bar is crowned by an excellent light, and offers a good mark for vessels entering at night : there are buoys on a shoal on the opposite side of the entrance. At the lower extremity of the city a long pier has been erected, and is rapidly filling up by the ballast discharged from the timber-ships. At high-water large vessels pass the Falls, near the city, and navigate the river above. Eastward of the harbour there is a broad and shallow estuary tenninating in a marsh, and a deep ravine that runs westward, and separates the town of Portland from St. John. As the latter con- tains an abundant supply of clay, it is the site of a number of brick- yards, which are more useful than ornamental to the environs of the city. The Harbour of St. John has an important advantage over almost every other port in the Province, in being open at all seasons of the year. The ice — the great obstacle to navigation in all tlie ports of the St. Lawrence — does not accumulate here so as to obstruct navigation ; • The houses of worship of the Dissenters arc caUed by the inhabitants meeting-houses. 122 NEW BRUNSWICK. and during the coldest months of winter, vessels are loaded and despatched to foreign countries without much risk or inconvenience. The harbour and offing afford a most valuable fishery : cod, halibut, pollock, and other kinds of fish, are caught at all seasons of the year ; shad, herring, alewives, and salmon are abundant during the spring and summer months ; the latter fish is sometimes sold as low as three- pence per pound. The fishery is divided into lots, which are annually drawn for by lottery, each citizen having a right to a ticket. The prizes, or best lots, are afterwards leased for £50, and even £100. The market where the fish are offered for sale is small and filthy, and calls for improvement. St. John is built upon a rocky peninsula of very uneven ground, that slopes in opposite directions from a central ridge. A great deal of labour has been employed in cutting down the hills and levelling the streets ; several of which are still steep, and the ice in winter sometimes renders them dangerous. That division of the city which is nearest the entrance of the harbour is called Lower Cove. The principal wharves, docks, and warehouses are situated farther to the north, and extend around the head of the basin to within a short distance of the Falls. The whole shore is lined with timber-ponds, booms, and shipyards, which receive the numerous rafts floated down the river. The streets have been regularly laid out, and two pieces of ground. King’s Square and Queen’s Square, near the centre of the town, have been reserved for public accommodation. The city, which includes within its boundaries a town on the western side of the harbour, called Carlton, consists of six wards. It is incorporated,* and governed by a Mayor (who is appointed by the Lieutenant-Governor), a Recorder, six Aldermen, six Assistant Aldermen, a Sheriff of the County, a Coroner, Common Clerk, Chamberlain, High Constable, six Marshals, and sixteen inferior Constables. The revenue of the city amounts to about £5,000 per annum. A part of the public property still remains unleased, and is yearly growing more valuable. It is well built, and the whole range of wharves, to the distance of a mile and a half, is lined wdth stones and * No emigrant, nor any other person, can sell goods until he first obtain the freedom of the city ; the cost of which is £5 currency. NEW BRUNSWICK. 123 large piles of deal, and other kinds of lumber, destined for the British market. The principal buildings are made of stone and brick, and a number of the shops are not excelled in beauty in much older cities. On the 14th of January, 1837, a destructive fire broke out and consumed 115 houses and stores, which were equal at the time to one- third of the commercial part of the city. The loss was estimated at £250,000. Several severe fires have occurred since, and whole streets, including the north and south market wharves, have been laid in ruins, with a new market-house at the foot of King Street. The extreme point of the peninsula belongs to the Crown, and is occupied by two batteries, military stores, and barracks, capable of containing two regi- ments. In firont of the barracks there is a spacious parade-ground, which affords a fine promenade in summer for the public, who are admitted without distinction. The principal public buildings are three Episcopal Churches; two Presbyterian, one Roman Catholic, two Me- thodist, one Baptist, one Covenanter, one Christian Band Chapel ; a Grammar School, a Methodist Sunday-school, Court-house, Gaol, Poor- house, two Hospitals, a Mechanics* Institute, Mayor’s and City Office, three Banks, Market-house, Custom-house, St. John Hotel, and Peni- tentiary. A number of private houses are tastefully built, and the residence of the Chief Justice, situate in a small park, is quite in European style. The low wooden buildings that formerly occupied the suburbs are yearly replaced by handsome cottages, and the city is rapidly increasing in magnitude and population.* Carlton, on the west side of the harbour, forms two wards of the city; it almost surrounds a large pond supplying water to saw-mills during the recess of the tide. It has several handsome streets, an Episcopal Church, Meeting-house, and extensive wharves. A steamboat plies between the shores, which are a quarter of a mile apart, every fifteen minutes. The fishing is excellent; and, from the convenience of * General Arnold, who made a conspicuous figure in the American Revolu- tionary War, resided in the city after the peace, and the house built by him in King Street still remains standing. The celebrated and notorious William Cobbett was once stationed at this place as a private soldier; and he here found his wife, of whom he afterwards published a curious auto-biography. 124 NEW BRUNSWICK. the situation, several mercantile establishments have been opened of late, and the appearance of the place much improved. Tlie manufacturing industry of St. John has advanced with the growth of the city. It has now three iron-foundries, in which exalted steam- engines and other machinery are made. There are also a number of Hour-mills, turned by steam and water, for the manufacture of foreign grain ; but, from the present abundance of timber, the sawing of logs into deals, scantling, shingles, and laths, has called forth the greatest amount of capital : several steam saw-mills are employed in this busi- ness, and others are contemplated. The descent of the river at the Falls has given rise to the St. John Mills and Canal Company; and machinery for sawing and grinding grain is propelled by the stream, as it rushes down the frightful rapid towards the ocean. At a site below the Falls where the river is very narrow, an attempt was made a few years ago to erect a bridge between Carlton and the opposite shore. The work was nearly completed, when, from the lack of engineering science, a part of it fell into the stream, and a number of workmen, with a mass of timber, were plunged upwards of one hundred and fifty feet into the river below : of the men only a few were saved, and the event is among the painful records of the loss of life which has been but too frequent at and below the cataract. Formerly there was an Indian village a furlong above the Falls, and the spot is still called Indian Town. The river steamers and small craft generally land here, and a little town has sprung up within the space of a few years. The distance to the city is a mile and a quarter, and the street runs through the thriving town of Portland, which should be united to St. John, instead of being a separate parish. The whole shore of Portland is occupied by timber-docks and ship-yards, and, except for its lack of cleanliness and frequent disorder, it would be a valuable ajjpendage to the city. Northward of Portland stands Fort Howe Hill, which commands the upper part of the harbour. The hill is the site of a military post, with a magazine at its base. Portland is the site of a handsome Episeopal Chureh, a Roman Catholic Chapel, two Meeting-houses, and an Academy. By the recent exertions of an active company fonned for the pur- NEW BRUNSWICK. 125 pose, the principal streets of St. John are now supplied with water, brought from a small lake situated a mile and a half northward. The water is elevated by forcing-pumps to the highest ground, and then conducted through pipes to its several places of destination. The streets are very imperfectly lighted, and an effort to introduce gas was resisted by the Corporation of 1842. The situation of St. John is by no means unfavourable for fortifica- tion. Batteries on Partridge Island, Fort Howe Hill, and other emi- nences, would defend the haven and city. At present the defences consist of three small batteries on the east, and a stone tower and blockhouse on the west side of the harbour, and a fort on the island. Although those works are not in a state of perfect repair, the well- known spirit of the Militia, with the expertness of their artillery divi- sions, would render the approach of an enemy even with a strong force very hazardous. The uplands in the vicinity of St. John are rocky. The soil is scanty and meagre. There are, nevertheless, fine fields and meadows, which, by industry and patience, have been rendered fertile. A marsh con- sisting of 1500 acres, eastward of the city, has been rescued from the sea by an embankment, and, by good cultivation, produces hay, pota- toes, and oats abundantly. The surrounding country is thickly covered with cedar, larch, hemlock, and spruce. Viewed from any of the emi- nences flanking the harbour, the scenery is bold and picturesque. The river at low-water, dashing forward in columns of spray, is seen rushing through a narrow gorge into the harbour, spreading the surface of the water with wreaths of foam. Cultivation is driving back the forest, and the whole basin of the river appears to be alive with ships, steam- boats, and small craft. In the rear. Fort Howe Hill, overlooking the busy scenes below, forms an interesting object. In the midst of this scenery stands the city of St. John, the great commercial depot of the Bay of Fundy. A little more than sixty years ago, the site of the city was a rocky headland covered with cedar thickets. It was then the refuge of Ame- rican Loyalists, by whose patience and industry the foundation of a flourishing city was established, and which now contains 20,000 souls. Besides the public institutions before mentioned, St. John has a Cham* 12G NEW BRUNSWICK. ‘ ber of Commerce, Agricultural and Horticultural Society, Emigration Society,* Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, Religious Tract Society, Church-of-England Sunday School Society, Ladies’ Benevo- lent Society, Library, Sacred Music Society, St. George’s Society, St. Andrew’s Society, St. Patrick’s Society, Albion Union Society, Orphan’s Benevolent Society, Temperance Society, Total Abstinence Society, and three Fire Clubs. Some writers and travellers have charged the inhabitants of St. John with a lack of civility, and a want of harmony in their social character. In all commercial cities which rise rapidly, the constant influx of per- sons of different pursuits gives rise to jealousies ; but such feelings seldom exist among the better classes at St. John, than whom a more kind and benevolent people can scarcely be found in any country. Again, it frequently happens that men in the humbler walks of life, and with little education, by their industry obtain wealth, and conse- quently more or less influence : such persons seldom acquire the accom- plishments of those who have had greater advantages of refinement, and it would be wrong to condemn a whole community for the rudeness or incivility of some of its members. The licentiousness of the press has created unhappy divisions, and given to strangers an unfavourable opinion of the state of society ; but the remarks of promiscuous and anonymous writers, who delight to record every supposed evil, take no hold upon the public mind, and time and the more general diffusion of correct principles will purify the corrupt portion of the press from its present tainted and disgusting personalities. Besides being open to foreign trade, the situation of St. John is very favourable for Colonial traffic. The timber and other resources of the interior of the Province — and, since the settlement of the Boundary dispute, a part of the State of Maine— are transported down the river to the city, which commands the business of the towns and settlements above. It has also taken the traffic of the Bay of Fundy, and through that channel continues to draw away the productions of Nova Scotia * The Government has appointed M. H. Perley, Esq., an Emigration Agent at St. John, who will be found ready to afford advice and assistance to any respectable emigrant who arrives at the port. NEW imUNSWICK. 127 from Halifax. The construction of railways in the Provinces would greatly alter and improve the state of Colonial trade, and give to Hali- ax, the capital of Nova Scotia, a larger share of the business of that rovince : ut it is reserved for the chapter on the Commerce of New ninswick to treat more largely on this subject. Seven miles westward from St. John, a small bay, called Mana- wagonis, affords shelter for vessels during the prevalence of certain ^nds Musquash Harbour, farther to the south-west, is a safe and beautiful haven, two miles long and half a mile wide. It is easy of access, with deep water and good anchorage. During the early settle- ment of the country, a French armed brig was chased into Musquash Harbour by a British cruiser. The former was run ashore and de- serted by her crew, and a part of the wreck may still be seen at a place called Frenchman's Creek. At the head of the haven, there is a tract of marsh, intersected by Musquash River, which extends into the parish and village of Lancaster. On the northern branch of the stream, superior saw-mills have been erected by the Lancaster Mill Company at an expense exceeding £20,000. The exports from those mills have been equal to £10,000 per annum. Dipper and Little Dipper Harbours are frequented by coasters, and they are very convenient basins on a shore which, in general, is bold and rocky. In all these harbours, and along the intervening coast, there is a plentiful run of fish, of which comparatively few are taken by the inhabitants, who, like those on many other shores, divide their time between agriculture, lumbering, and fishing. The whole District of St. John may be said to be rocky and broken. The soil in general is scanty and meagre, requiring at the hands of the husbandman much care and diligence in the production of a crop. On the west it is traversed by the great road leading from tlie city to St. Andrew s, upon which a stage or mail coach passes every day. Be- sides the main road, extending from the city towards the eastern section of the Province and Nova Scotia, there is another running to Quaco, passing by a beautiful sheet of water called Loch Lomond. Roads have also been laid out and improved along the shores, and to the remotest settlements ; but many of them are in a bad state, and few 128 NEW BUUNSWICK. can be travelled with speed or comfort. The liberal grants made annually by the Legislature for the improvement of internal communi- cation will soon multiply the facilities for travelling. The best forests of this county have been felled, and it is only at places remote from the roads or open streams that good timber can now be produred. The chief advantages of the country inhabitants are the proximity of a market for their produce, the fisheries, and facilities for ship-building. The county contains 427,650 acres, of which only 19,134* acres are cleared : large blocks of land still remain ungranted ; but, from their mountainous and rocky character, they scarcely invite settlement. Notwithstanding, there are many small tracts that would compensate the industry of the steady farmer. Limestone is abundant, and, by judicious management, would greatly improve the state of agriculture. A considerable part of the surface is occupied by tracts of barren soil, producing only stunted spruce and moss ; and bogs of peat are numerous. The appearance of the almost sterile spots is rendered less dreary by numerous small lakes and rivulets, resting quietly between the hills, or winding their way to the rivers and bays. The abrupt character of almost every eminence also contributes to render the scenery interest- ing. Although much of the land presents to the farmer a forbidding aspect, villages and settlements are springing up in almost every quarter. Of these, Quaco, in the Parish of St. Martin’s, has become important, on account of its peculiar advantages for ship-building. The Parish of Lancaster is also rapidly improving in husbandry and domestic manufacture. This county is better adapted for emigrants who have trades, or have been brought up to fishing, than for those who follow the tillage of the soil. The small harbours, bays, and creeks offer suitable sites for shore or deep-sea fishing, which might be carried on with profit. On every stream of sufficient magnitude there are one or more saw'- mills. During the winter season, the country inhabitants are engaged in felling and transporting logs of timber for those establishments, from ■ * Census of New Brunswick, 1810. NEW BRUNSWICK. 129 whence the deals are shipped in the ensuing spring. This kind of in- dustry cannot be pursued in the best agricultural districts of Canada and Nova Scotia, where the cold months of winter bring around the season of gaiety, amusement, and matrimony. The soil, when properly cultivated, produces fine crops of excellent potatoes, turnips, oats, barley, flax, grass, &c., for which it is better adapted than for wheat or Indian corn. The fogs that hang over the coast, during the early part of summer, are very unfavourable to the production of the latter kinds of grain. A hardy breed of cattle find sufficient grazing on the uncleared lands during the vegetating months. But the whole county partakes of the coast climate, which is far less favourable to the growth of plants than the warmer and less humid atmosphere of the interior. The total population of the County and City of St. John, at the present time, is about 35,000 souls. County of Charlotte, The County of Charlotte, if not the most extensive in area, is next in population and trade to the County of St. John. Commencing at 1 oint Lc Proe, on the shore of the Bay of Fundy, its eastern line touches the before-mentioned district, and the Kings and Queen’s Counties. On the north, it meets Sunbury and York ; on the west, it extends to the River St. Croix, or Schoodic, the boundary of the United States ; and on the south, it is washed by the waves of the Bay. It contains ten parishes,— namely, St. Andrew’s, St. Stephen’s, St. David’s, St. George’s, St. Patrick’s, St. James’, Pennfield, Grand Manan, West Isles, and Campo Bello. Whether those names were applied on all Saints’ Day, or not, is of little consequence; the parishes, nevertheless, border on the St. Croix, and are situated to the westward of St. John and St. Martin’s. St. Andrew’s, the principal town of this county, though not equal to St. John in magnitude, is of commercial importance, and would soon increase rapidly were it not for its rival St. Stephen’s, a new town situated farther up the St. Croix, at the highest point to which vessels can ascend. The site of St. Andrew’s, the shire town, is upon a peninsula on the east side of the mouth of the River St. Croix, or Schoodic, which at its dehouchement into Passamaquoddy Bay is two 130 NEW EHUNSWICK. miles wide. The river opposite the town is divided by the small island upon which De Monts and his party wintered in the early discovery of the country. This frontier town, situated nearly opposite to Robinstown on the American side, is built upon level ground, or an inclined plane, that slopes gently down from swelling ridges of land eastward to the border of the river. Streets running parallel to the harbour, and a chain of wharves occupied by stores, are intersected by other streets at right an- gles ; the buildings in general are good, and the town, with its surround- ing meadows and cultivated fields, presents a beautiful landscape. Being one of the oldest places in the Province, it is well provided with public institutions ; the principal of which are a Chamber of Commerce, Bank, Savings* Bank, Bible Society, Agricultural Society, Geological Society, St. Patrick’s Society, together with an Academy and Printing Office. The public buildings are an Episcopal Church, a Presbyterian Meeting-house, a Methodist Chapel, Court-house, Gaol, Record Office, Barracks, &e, A number of the private houses are built in handsome style, and impart an air of neatness to the whole place, which, although not extensive, contains much wealth and respectability. The safe and commodious harbour is favourably situated for foreign traffic and fish- ing, although it is sometimes obstructed by ice in the winter season. Heretofore, the West India trade, and exports of timber to Great Bri- tain, have been pursued with success. The town is surrounded, except on its harbour side, by well-cultivated farms, which reach across the peninsula to Cham cook, at a medium distance of a mile and a half eastward. About four miles northward of St. Andrew’s stands Chamcook Mountain, associated with a number of cone-shaped hills, which add much to the grandeur of the scenery of the district. At the base of the former eminence are situated Chamcook Lake, River, and Harbour, opening out on the eastern side of the peninsula. At this place, exten- sive saw and grist mills, with a spacious wet dock, have been erected by John Wilson, Esq., by whose enterprise this part of the county has been much improved. A mail crosses the line to and from the United States at St. An- drew’s, and there are ferry establishments on both sides of the river for NEW BRUNSWICK. 131 the accommodation of travellers. Steamboats also ply between the St. John and the St. Croix during spring, summer, and autumn. A few years ago, an Association was formed at St. Andrew’s, called the St. Andrew’s and Quebec Railroad Company ; and the inhabitants of that town, it appears, were the first to propose a railway from the Atlantic to Canada through New Brunswick. In 1836, the Govern- ment granted £10,000 towards the accomplishment of the object, and that sum was expended in exploring a proper route. The Company obtained an act of incorporation, and proposed a capital of £750,000 : the distance is 270 miles, chiefly through a dense wilderness, until it approaches the Grand Falls on the St. John. The line explored ex- tends in nearly a straight line from St. Andrew’s to the Parish of Woodstock ; thence to the valley of the Aroostook, in the District of the Upper St. John, which it crosses, and then proceeds to the St. Lawrence near Quebec. This route is practicable ; but the giving away of a part of the territory of New Brunswick to the Americans in the settlement of the Boundary dispute has materially changed the features of the undertaking, and would now increase the engineering difficulties of a line run on British ground. The unsettled state of the American claim, and difficulty of obtaining the requisite capital, pre- vented it from being constructed at the time, and the railway now pro- posed between Halifax and Quebec will no doubt check its farther advancement, unless it be deemed expedient to make this a branch of the great line intended to intersect the Lower Provinces. Next in importance in the County of Charlotte is St. Stephen’s, sixteen miles from St. Andrew’s, and at the head of ship navigation. This thriving little town has one Episcopal Church, two Meeting- houses, a Bank, Whale-fishing Company, and other public institutions. Between it and St. Andrew’s, the river throws out a beautiful sheet of water called Oak Bay, around which the scenery is very bold and inter- esting. The waters of the united Cheputnecticook and Schoodic Rivers, with their extensive tributaries and lakes in the interior, make their final descent over a fall into the sea at St. Stephen’s. Here, and also at Milltown, two miles above, advantage is taken of the rapid current, and saw-inills are kept in constant operation, being supplied with tim- ber floated down the lakes and rivers by the freshets of spring. A rail- K 2 NEW BRUNSWICK. 132 way on the American and a sluice on the British side of the stream convey the lumber from the mills to the basin below, where it is shipped. The quantity of boards, deals, and other lumber thus pro- duced has given rise to a brisk trade with Europe and the West Indies, and rendered the upper town a place of active business. A large vil- lage called Milltown has also sprung up from lumbering industry, and is rapidly assuming the features of a flourishing tovrn. Of late, agri- culture has engaged the attention of many of the inhabitants, and the country around exhibits the extension and improvement of husbandry. Directly opposite St. Stephen’s is situated the town of Calais, on the American side. A bridge has been thrown across the river, and a friendly intercourse exists between the inhabitants of the opposite bor- ders of the national boundary. During the last war, when a collision between those whose dwellings are within gunshot of each other would have produced the most unhappy consequences, it was mutually agreed upon by the subjects’^of both countries along this inhabited part of the line, that no attack should be made on either side, and the authorities effectually restrained the violence that sometimes springs from rash and intemperate men. From Calais there are stages running to different places in the State of Maine ; and if there is a single character that would distinguish the American from the British border, it is the greater number of houses of worship and denominations professing Christianity on the side of the former. The population of the Parish of St. Stephen’s in 1840 was 3,405 ; it will soon exceed 4,000. A tract of elevated and broken land extends from the County of St. John in a south-west direction to the American boundary. Within its range are the Mountains of the Nerepis, and the high lands of the Digdeguash and Magaguadavic, with the eminences that skirt the shore and stretch away into the interior. This range crosses the County of Charlotte, having Chamcook Mountain a little advanced towards the seaboard. The parishes already described, and those of St. James, St. David, and St. Patrick, at their northern extremities, are therefore broken and stony ; and, from the nature of the rocks, they partake of the character of mountainous districts. On their southern margins, where they approach the river, the slopes and valleys are cultivated. NEW BRUNSWICK. 133 and yield good crops. In such situations, there is often a subsoil of clay, and excellent grass lands. Different kinds of grain thrive well ; but the dense fogs that envelop the coast during the warm season are unfavourable for the ripening of wheat, which at places a little more remote from the sea yields a substantial harvest. The Parish of St. Patrick is traversed by the lower part of the Dig- deguash River, opening into Chamcook Harbour. The stream at certain seasons of the year affords passage for logs and squared timber, and is occupied by saw-mills. The chief part of the soil is dry and stony. St. George’s Parish is intersected by the Magaguadavic, also empty- ing into Chamcook Bay. At its mouth there is a very beautiful har- bour, and the river is navigable for boats and rafts of timber to the Lower Falls, a distance of ten miles. At the termination of the navi- gable part of the stream, the river falls, by five successive steps, one hundred feet, and through a chasm averaging only thirty feet wide. The sides of the narrow gorge are occupied by six saw-mills of great power, which cling to the rocks like eagles* nests ; and the lumber manufactured by them is carried along sluces into a small, deep basin below, where the water is in constant revolution. Above the Falls, the river passes through a level wide plain of intervale ; and, after pur- suing a very tortuous course, it reaches Loon Lake, and communicates with the Shogamock, a small tributary of the St. John. From the river, its lakes, and a branch called the Piskehagan, there has been an abun- dant supply of logs, and the exports of lumber from the harbour are still very considerable. The little town of St. George, situated at and above the Falls, is a neat village with a number of good buildings : the main road from St. John to St. Andrew’s passes through it. Lake E utopia, surrounded by hills, separates it from the intervale above mentioned. The village, the cataract, the lake, and the elevated wil- derness to the north, render this part of the country peculiarly pictu- resque : indeed, the neighbourhood of St. George, the Digdeguash, Chamcook, and the lower St. Croix, present the traveller with some of the finest scenery in America, Forty miles up the Magaguadavic, the wilderness country is still more elevated. In the chain of high lands in this quarter. Mount Pleasant is the most conspicuous among the nume- rous hills of the district. 134 NEW BRUNSWICK. The above parish has an excellent harbour, called L’Etang, which is separated from the mouth of the Magaguadavic by a narrow peninsula projecting into the bay. At this place and on the neighbouring islands there are extensive quarries of limestone. Beaver Harbour, ten miles farther eastward, also affords safe anchorage for small vessels. In regard to soil and scenery, the parish of Pennfield is similar to St. Patrick’s. It fronts the sea at Mace’s Bay, a shallow estuary ; and the principal river, the Poclogan, is an inferior stream. The County of Charlotte communicates with St. .Tohn by the main road leading from the latter to St. Andrew’s and St. Stephen’s, and in the summer season by steam along the coast. Another great road has been opened between St. An- drew’s and Fredericton. Those works and the bridges across the rivers have been made by the Province at great expense, and require annual grants to keep them in repair. Every settlement has its road ; but many of them are hilly and bad : they are too numerous to be kept in good repair by a scattered population. Almost the whole of the northern part of the County of Charlotte remains in a wilderness state. It is true that advances upon the forest are made yearly ; but much time must elapse before the descendants of the present inhabitants will be sufficiently numerous to clear and occupy the whole area of the district. Although the interior is broken by mountains and hills, there are good tracts of land, with fertile inter- vales along the courses of the streams. Many such tracts still remain ungi*anted, and might be cheaply obtained by emigrants. The industry of the mainland parishes is divided between agriculture, lumbering, and fishing. The former of those pursuits is most safe and certain in its reward. The remaining parishes include the British islands on the coast. The whole of Passamaquoddy Bay is studded with islands, which are said to be 305 in number. Many of these islands are merely rude masses of rock, or small eminences covered with moss and stunted spruce. The larger ones have a soil of medium quality, and produce excellent potatoes, barley, and oats. During the summer or fishing season, the bay presents an interesting spectacle. Boats and vessels becalmed are swept away by the rapid tide. At one instant they are hidden by some blackened rock, at another they are seen gliding from behind the green NEW BRUNSWICK:. 135 foliage of some little island. Sometimes himdreds of boats are huddled together, their crews being actively engaged in drawing forth the finny inhabitants of the deep. As soon as the shoal of fish retreats, or the tide is unfavourable, they disperse, and the surface of the water is decorated with their white and red sails. The Indian, in his frail bark canoe, without a rope or anchor, is also there, and the report of his gun, discharged at the rising porpoise, is re-echoed among the cliffs of the shore. Flights of gulls hang over the glassy surface of the water, which is here and there broken by a shoal of herring, or the spouting grampus in search of his prey. Grand Manan, one of the parishes of the County of Charlotte, is an island situated twelve miles south from the main land of the American State of Maine, in latitude 44® 46' North, and longitude 66® 49' West. It is twenty -five miles long, and, upon an average, five miles in breadth. Its north side presents a bold front of perpendicular precipices, from two to four hundred feet in height. The opposite side slopes gradually down to the sea, and is occupied by small villages, farms, and fishing establishments. The higher part of the island is not inhabited, but affords excellent timber for ship-building and other purposes. Along the south side of the main island, there are a number of small islands, sometimes connected with each other by reefs of rocks or bars of sand that are covered by the sea at high-water. The open spaces between the islands afford safe harbours for vessels. The soil in general, al- though scanty, is fertile, and produces good crops of grain and pota- toes. The shortness of the season is compensated by the quickness of vegetation. Wheat ripens in the month of August. On the island there are a church, two meeting-houses, a lighthouse, besides several small mercantile establishments. There are 3,000 acres of cleared land, and a population of upwards of 1,200 souls. Fishing is the principal employment of the inhabitants, and Grand Manan is a most valuable island for that branch of industry. Never- theless, the business is not pursued with much spirit, and ten times the present number of English vessels and fishermen might be advantage- ously employed. From the abundance of fish, the Americans frequent the island and its fishing-grounds in great numbers. Their vessels are amply fitted 1 36 NEW BRUNSWICK. out, and the superior skill and energy of their crews give them a great advantage over the British inhabitants, upon whose rights they encroach with impunity. This subject will be treated of more at large in the chapter on the Fisheries. Campo Bello, another island parish, is separated from the American town of Lubec by a narrow passage. It is about eight miles long, and upon an average not more than two miles wide. It has two fine har- bours — Harbour De Lute and Welchpool. At the latter place there is a pretty village. The island is owned by Capt. Owen, R. N., and contains about 800 inhabitants, who are tenants to the proprietor. There are good herring-fisheries upon the shores. Cod, pollock, had- dock, and other kinds of fish are taken, and often carried over the Line and sold to the Americans in an uncured state. The great facilities for smuggling along this part of the American line are not overlooked by the inhabitants. A third parish comprises the remainder of the inhabited islands, and is called West Isles. Deer Island is twelve miles long and three miles in breadth, and partially cultivated. Indian Island has a good fishing establishment. Jouet’s Island, the residence of a Collector of Her Majesty’s Customs, contains only four acres. The Wolves are six small islands, situated about ten miles from the coast ; one of them is occupied by a single family, and the group is well known for having been the scene of many shipwrecks. The White Horse is a lofty mass of trap rock ; and the White, Green, Spruce, Cherry, and Casco Bay Islands are small eminences of little importance. A number of vessels are owned at the inhabited places above mentioned, and employed in deep- sea fishing ; and upwards of eight hundred persons are engaged in the catch along the shores. But, with all the apparent industry of the scat- tered population, there is evidently a defect in their system of employ- ment, and the fisheries of the bay and islands contribute far less to the commerce of the Province than might be expected from such valuable resources. Lighthouses have been erected on the principal headlands of the coast and islands, but their lights are less brilliant than those along the American shores. NEW BRUNSWICK. 137 County of Westmoreland. This extensive county is bounded on the south by Chignecto Bay and Cumberland Basin, and joins Nova Scotia on the south-east hy a narrow peninsula. It extends along the shore of Northumberland Straits to the north-east. Northward it meets Kent, and westward King’s and Queen’s Counties. It contains eleven parishes, the bounda- ries of which have not been properly defined. The present population is not less than 19,000. There are 100,000 acres of cleared land, in- cluding 7,590 acres of diked marsh. The county contains 1,312,000 acres. A new county has lately been set off from Westmoreland, called Albert ; but as its boundaries are not yet settled, I have included its description in that of the ancient district. The general features of W^est- moreland are very different from those of the Counties of St. John or Charlotte. Excepting the eminence called Shepody Mountain, it is not elevated ; the surface being varied by swelling oval ridges, gentle slopes, and wide shallow valleys. The lands of the eastern parishes are low and level. There are a few small lakes, and occasionally peat bogs and swamps; beyond these and a few small tracts of sandy ground, the entire surface is capable of being rendered fertile, and the chief part of the whole district is covered by a rich and productive soil, to which are added large tracts of marsh that have been rescued from the sea by embankments. The south side of the county is deeply in- dented by Shepody Bay and Cumberland Basin ; the former receives ih6 Peticodiac, which waters almost the whole of the western parishes. That river is navigable for vessels of a hundred tons burden tliirty-three miles, and the tide fiows inland thirty-six miles. Twenty-six miles from its mouth, it makes a sudden turn at a right angle called the Bend,* where the tide flows in and ebbs off in six hours. The flood- tide makes its first ingress in a tidal wave, or bore, which, at high tides, is sometimes six feet in elevation. Timber and deals are exported from the Peticodiac, and large ships are built near the Bend for the English market. The river also affords a good shad-fishery. The Tantamarre and Aulac are smaller streams, whose estuaries have been filled up by allu- vial matter now forming the great marshes of that part of the country. * Named by the French, Petit Coiidc (Little Elbow), whence is derived Peticodiac, frequently called by the inhabitants Pettycoatjack.*^ NEW BRUNSWICK. 138 The Parish of Dorchester, the shire town, is stretched along the east side of the Peticodiac, between the Bend and Sackville. It is thickly populated on the banks of the rivers and borders of the marshes. A large village, with an Episcopal Church, Court-house, and several hand- some private buildings, stands on the side of a hill sloping towards the mouth of the Memramcook, where there is an excellent harbour with a Custom-house. The public business of the county is transacted at the above village. The exports from the harbour are very limited. Both banks of the Memramcook were originally settled by French Acadians, whose descendants still enjoy the possessions of their forefathers. On the west side of the stream they have a large chapel, and the place is the resort of a few families of Micmac Indians, who receive instruction and aid from the resident Roman Catholic Missionary. The east side of the Peticodiac, to the distance of twelve miles above its entrance, is also occupied by these people ; and a pretty village has received its name in commemoration of Monsieur Belleveaux, who lived to the advanced age of one hundred and ten years. The parish contains valuable quar- ries of gypsum, freestone, grindstone, and strata of coal ; and its fine alluvial marshes and strong uplands are favourable for the pursuits of husbandry. The Parish of Sackville is situated between Dorchester and the Parish of Westmoreland, and borders upon Cumberland Basin. Its southern part was first settled by the French. After they were driven from their possessions here, and other parts of Acadia, their lands were immediately occupied by the British, and they are now densely populated. The great Tantaniarre Marsh is situated on both sides of a river of that name, and is one of the largest collections of fertile sea alluvium in British America, being twelve miles in length and four miles wide. Its appearance in autumn, when dotted over with haystacks, is very novel to the European visitor. The overflowing of the sea is prevented by dikes thrown up on the margin of the rivers and across the creeks.* ♦ The creeks are filled with alternate layers of brushwood and marsh mud, secured by piles. Through the lower part of the construction there is a sluice, with a swinging gate or valve on the side next the sea, and which is closed by the tide at its influx, and opened by the fresh water above after the tide has retreated. The work is called an aboiteau. NEW BRUNSWICK. 139 This kind of land, when properly drained and brought under the influ- ence of tillage, produces excellent crops of wheat, oats, and grass, but not potatoes : clover grows upon it luxuriantly ; yet from the great quantity of marsh owned by the upland proprietors, extensive lots remain in an unimproved state. The whole area is capable of producing, under proper culture, five times the quantity of wheat or hay it now yields. The uplands along the border of the marsh are chiefly under cultivation ; tliey produce wheat, rye, oats, barley, Indian corn, and potatoes, in great abundance. From the great supply of grass and hay, the inhabitants raise many cattle ; their dairies also supply excellent butter for the Halifax and St. John markets. At the head of the marsh there is a tract of peat bog, floating bog, and small lakes, eight miles long and two miles wide. The farms are laid out in ranges running parallel to the marsh, and the whole face of the country presents a suc- cession of flourishing villages, and a wide scene of agricultural industry, adorned by the natural beauties of the place. In the richest part of the district, the Methodist denomination have erected a large academy, which, by the liberal donations of its supporters, is kept in useful operation. The mercantile establishments at Sackville of Messrs. Crane and Allisons, and others, also add to its importance. At Cape Meran- guin there are valuable quarries of freestone and grindstones ; the latter are shipped to the United States. New settlements are succeeding each other in the more remote parts of the parish ; although wild lands may still be purchased at a low rate, or from five shillings to ten shillings per acre. The Parish of Westmoreland extends from the boundary between Nova Sotia and New Brunswick, in the form of a triangle, and across the peninsula. It is less important and populous than either of the two parishes above described ; still it embraces much fertile land, and is varied to meet the purposes of the farmer. The Aulac, a small stream, is also skirted by marsh. A swelling ridge of land, called Point de Bute, separates that river from the Misseguash, forming the boundary line between the Provinces. Fort Beau-Sejour, now called Fort Cumber- land, was erected on the south- western termination of the ridge, where it commands the entrance of both streams. On it stand a church and chapel, surrounded by fine farms and rich marshes. A certain locality NEW BRUNSWICK. 140 is called Bloody Ridge, from a sanguinary conflict that took place be- tween a few loyalists and a party of rebels during the Revolutionary war. The little fortress that was deemed so important in the early history of the Province, and which was taken by Colonel Moncton in 175o, is still preserved by the Government ; while Fort Moncton on the oppo- site side of the latter river, its ancient rival, has been permitted to crumble into decay. It has long been proposed to open a canal across the peninsula in the direction of one of those rivers, from the head of Cumberland Basin to Bay Verte, uniting thereby the Bay of Fundy and the Gulf of St. I^awrence ; and several surveys have been made of different routes ; but none of them have proved satisfactory, and the contemplated introduction of railways into the Provinces will, no doubt, draw away the attention of the people from that object. Bay Verte, on the Gulf side of the Province, is a narrow and shallow estuary, especially at its inner extremity. TheGaspereau andTignish, two small rivers emptying themselves into the Bay, are frequently dry in the summer season. Those streams have singular terraces thrown up along their borders by the pressure of the ice during the floods of spring. Near the mouth of the former river are still seen the remains of the fort built by M. La Come, who was sent from Quebec with six hundred French soldfbrs to aid the Indians in their attack upon the British settlements. The Bay terminates in a tract of marsh, and a large settlement with fine farms is spread around the head of the estuary. There are also two mercantile establishments which conduct the trade of the place. Between Bay Verte and Sackville there is a good road passing through the fine village of Joli Coeur; the northern part of the parish is thinly settled, and the roads are bad. Both wilderness and cleared lands may be purchased at low prices. Fish are plenty along the shores. Botsford Parish occupies the extreme north-eastern point of the Pro- vince, called Cape Tormentine, which approaches Prince Edward’s Island within a distance of twelve miles. Near the Cape there is a large settlement, and scattered villages occupy the road that runs along the coast. Great and Little Shemogne, and Tedish, and Aboushagaii Rivers, are small streams emptying themselves into Northumberland Straits. At their mouths there arc extensive settlements of Acadian NEW BRUNSWICK. 141 French — a quiet and industrious people. Their farms are small, yet they are well cultivated ; and all their close villages, including the spacious chapel and comfortable residences of the French clergy, have an air of plain neatness. Agricultural and occasional fishing are the chief pursuits of these contented people. The interior of the parish is unsettled, except along the roads, which are bad. The surface is watered by numerous small streams, and the soil, that bears spruce, hemlock, and difierent kinds of maple and birch, is susceptible of cultivation ; many tracts arc of an excellent quality. Shediac, another parish on the Gulf shore, is more populous than Botsford, although it has less cleared land. It reaches from the harbour of that name to the Bend of Peticodiac, and touches the County of Kent to the north. The rivers are but small streams ; the land, low and level. It is interspersed with small bogs, swamps, and sterile sands ; yet there are some rich loamy tracts highly productive under ordinary culture. Some pine still remains unfelled ; but spruce is obtained in large supplies, and manufactured in saw-mills, of which there are fifteen in operation. The Harbour of Shediac js very safe and convenient ; but ships of large size must enter it at full sea, on account of the shallowness of the water. The tide rises four feel, and is much influenced by winds in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Near the entrance of the spacious basin there are two beautiful islands. On the smallest of these are seen the remains of a fortification and breastwork thrown up by the French immediately after the capture of Quebec by General Wolfe in 1759. The west side of the harbour is occupied by a series of thickly-populated villages, the largest of which may be called the town. In one of the settlements there are upwards of two hundred families of Acadians, and the largest Roman Catholic Chapel in the Province. The English inhabitants occupy the front of the harbour, where there is an Episcopal Church, Meeting-house, two inns, stores, and a number of good private build- ings. Tlie trade of the place is limited, and the fisheries along the coast make but a small return in proportion to their value. Oysters, of excellent quality, are abundant, and form an article of export to Canada and Nova Scotia. From the advantages enjoyed by the inhabit- ants, and their frugality, the place is in a thriving condition ; and NEW BRUNSWICK. 14 ^ although it partakes of the tameness of flat and level districts, the scenery is very pleasing. Agriculture is pursued with some diligence, and the employment of sea manure with calcined oyster-shells is highly advantageous to lands naturally stubborn and meagre. Wild land may be obtained from three to six shillings per acre. A line for the before-mentioned canal has been proposed to run between the Bend of the Peticodiac and Shediac, and the character of the country is favourable for the undertaking. The next two parishes, Moncton and Salisbury, are situated north- ward of the Peticodiac, above the Bend. A ridge of 'rather high land extends through them from the south-west. They are intersected by the Cocagne lliver, emptying itself into a harbour of the same name in the County of Kent. They have several fine new settlements, and the former contains 2,000 acres of diked marsh. At the Bend there is a small town, and the shipment of timber to Great Britain, with ship- building, renders it a place of some importance. Some of the farms along the side of the river are well cultivated, and the main post-road to St. John afibrds facilities of communication with that place and the western districts of the Province.* In the above parishes there are large tracts of unoccupied lands, and sufficient space for 1,500 settlers. Hillsborough is situated on the west and south side of the Petico- diac, and drained by Coverdale River, Turtle and Weldone Creeks. At the mouths of those streams there are large traets of marsh, and towards their sources they pass through fine intervales. A belt of marsh also skirts the main river. This parish contains some land of a superior quality, and the wilderness districts at the sources of the creeks and on the border of Hopewell are admirably adapted for settle- ment. They are most frequently covered with a heavy growth of hard wood, in which is the maple, affording domestic sugar. Limestone and gypsum are inexhaustible, grindstones are cut near the mouth of the river, and coal appears at several localities. A succession of settlements have been opened along the border of the Peticodiac, and, from the fertile character of the soil, the parish is rapidly improving. The same * Stage-coaches nm between Dorchester and St. John, passing the Bend, going and returning on alteniate days. NEW BRUNSWICK. 143 remark will apply to Coverdale. In Harvey the lands are more gra- velly and stony. Of late this wilderness part of the country has been brought into notice on account of its excellent lands, and new villages are beginning to be extended into the deep recesses of the forest. The Legislature has endeavoured to remedy to some extent the great inconvenience of the settler the lack of roads ; yet many years will elapse before all the good lands in this quarter will be taken up, unless they are sought for by immigrants, many of whom have preferred heretofore to wander through the United States, rather than make a resting-place upon the best lands of New Brunswick. The remaining parish of the county is Hopewell, which reaches along the shore of Chignecto Bay until it meets the County of St. John at Salisbury Cove. Its largest and most populous settlements are at Shepody. The broad marsh on the sides of a river of that name con- tains 5,000 acres, and a rapidly-increasing population are clearing higher up the slopes, the bases of which belong to the older inhabitants and their senior descendants. North of the largest village is an eleva- tion called Shepody Mountain, the tennination of a ridge of high ground extending along the boundary of St. John from the south-west. Shel- tered from the north winds by an elevated tract in the rear, and pos- sessing a rich soil, this extensive settlement, with its marshes and new clearings, presents a wide rural plain not surpassed in beauty by any district in America. The Shepody River terminates in a pretty lake. An opening has been made between the lake and the sea, in order to allow the tide to flow in and cover a large boggy tract with alluvium. New Horton, situated to th§ west of Grindstone Point and Island, is also a fine settlement. No parish in the Province is in a more flourish- ing condition than Hopewell, and none offers scenery more interesting to the visitor. The exports from the district consist of grindstones and flagstones, sent to Boston and New York ; and butter, cheese, beef, pork, and agricultural produce, to the market at St. John. Cape En- rage, at the southern extremity of the parish, is a bold promontory with a lighthouse on its summit. There still remain in the county large tracts of ungranted land. The best of them are situated at the heads of Pollet and Coverdale Rivers, 144 NEW BRUNSWICK. Turtle Creek,* and the sources of the Washadamoak. The soil at those places, in general, is a sandy loam. The high and low intervales are alluvial. There are also fertile wild tracts in the eastern parishes. The marshes are capable of gieat improvement. At some situations, after they are diked and drained, they settle, until they become lower than the hanks of the rivers where the alluvium is constantly collecting. From those causes, the inner margin of the marsh is overflown by fresh water during a part of the season, and is thereby rendered unpro- ductive. The best remedy for such an effect is to allow the muddy tides to flow in again over the low lands, whereby they will he elevated through the falling down of alluvial matter contained in the salt water. This plan of renovating diked marsh has been pursued at Sackville with success. Within a few past years, it has been discovered that sea allu- vium, or marsh mud, is an excellent manure for dry sandy lands : its application to such lands has become very general in Nova Scotia, where it produces fine crops of wheat, potatoes, and grass. Limestone and gypsum may he quarried in the western parishes ; hut they have not been employed generally as manures, and improvements in agricul- ture are but slowly introduced. The great number of streams that penetrate the whole district not only water its surface, but afford great facilities for manufacturing objects. The present number of grist-mills in the county is 56 ; saw- mills, 190 ; coal, limestone, gypsum, freestone, grindstone, with man- ganese and other minerals, have been discovered. With all those resources, the County of Westmoreland possesses the elements of in- dustry capable of sustaining twenty times its present population, and whether considered in reference to its agricultural advantages, manu- facture, or fisheries, it is an important and valuable district. • In 1S43, large tracts of these lands were surveyed into lots of 100 acres each, and a credit on 50 acres was offered to every actual settler, the price of the land being 3s. 3d. currency per acre. From a depressed state of business at St John, upwards of 100 mechanics and the same number of common la- bourers started for the woods, and commenced clearings: but an increased demand for their labour in the city afterwards induced a number of them to return to their former avocations, and the benevolence of the Government has not obtained its object. NEW BRUNSWICK. 145 King's County^ •« •!.« n,nh...... torawLo '< =»- .u. he. rr,::.“r;°:ersT n ■'• ■'“p- “1 on mo parishes are very inconvenient for the inhabitants. A chain 1 -t- length of of the di^t ^7"" “ "‘O'^ntainous aspect ; and almost the whole area of the dis net IS interspersed by hills, steep declivities, and narrow ravines waUed in by cliffs. There are, notwithstanding, level valleys <0,1 ,a a„ch «„a„oaa i, „o.llc„,. I, i, a,.. ties; and even the tops of the highest hills, except where they are Z7T by rocks, afford rich pastures. The broken and uneven sur- f^c, channelled out in valleys, or indented by the arms of the river affords a great vanety of bold and imposing scenery, and gives a wild’ ness to Its features not to be seen in the eastern disLcts About two miles above the Falls, the St. John throws out a beautiful navigable sheet of water called the Kcnebecasis,* eighteen miles long, with a medium breadth of two miles. A river of the same name mecS culri 11 n’ descended westward through a beautiful cultivated valley, its divided mouth surrounds Darling’s Island and opens into the bay. Hammond River, another stream, comes in from the south-east, and waters a tract in that quarter. The Kcnebecasis River IS divided into four small branches,--the MiU-stream, Smith’s Creek Salmon River, and Trout Creek : all those streams afford faci- lities for the transportation of timber, and sites for flour and saw mills. There are several shipbuilding establishments on the. border of the • Little Kcnebec, in the Melicete Indian dialect. L new BRUNSWICK. Ho bay, whence timber, deals, and agricultural produce are transported rn ^HTsir "rieb'nrof the St. lobn. con— with the main river twenty-eight mUes above the city. It north-east, and receives small streams from Kingston and Spmg^ The valley of the Kenebecasis is bounded in Sussex by Piccadilla and pUglh tL eminences that are elevated each 400 feet above the ord. na4 level of the district. Bull Moose Hill, in the parish of Spnngfiel^ islrly 600 feet high, and contains a rich deposit of -- large valky extends from the head of Belle Isle Bay. in a north-easterly dirltion, to the source of the Washadamoak. It wiU average from two to four miles in breadth, and is upwards of fifty miles in leng . On the west side of the St. John, in this county, another stream, called the Nerepis, descends from the north-west, and, to the dis ance of twelve miles, passes through a belt of intervale and marsh A large tract of this land was owned by the late General Coffin, and is know as a part of Coffin’s Manor. On each side of that stream, t e mo^- tains rise to greater elevation. Douglas Mountain, and other hills of the rocky alpine range, add great sublmii y o scenery of the Nerepis. There are also many small lakes scattered over the surface, and frequently situated far above the level of the rivers. One of the most remarkable of these is the Pickwaakeet, a few miles eastward of Kingston. Its character is that of an extinct crater, and the adjoining rocks are of volcanic origin. Kingston, the shire town, is a romantic and very pretty village, situ- ated aLng the hills, and on a branch of the Belle Isle Bay. It as a Church. The Court-house and Gaol are built of granite. The land in its vicinity is much broken. The soil is nevertheless good, and the district well improved. Near the village is a cloth manufactory, which refiects credit upon its proprietor. The parish comprises the pemnsula between the Kenebecasis and Belle Isle Bays. A road encircles this point of land. The shores are settled ; and many fine farms have been cleared, and are now cultivated, in the interior of the parish. There is an extensive settlement at Milkish Creek, and others opposite Gondola Point, also eastward of Kingston village. Sussex, the most populous parish of the county, was first settled by NEW BRUNSWICK 147 c i“f P«tf r “w •'»•'“““ Kiv», apd p<«»p,„ Ik. nnf I mentioned, called Sussex Vale. This is Xer the' t'^^ the alon^X “7 the narrow plat of alluvial soil s.de, has been brought under cultivation. At the principal village of south. The whole surface is closely settled. A wide tract, bounded aIom'edT‘r°'''''‘^H^“*’ ^rtile fields and meadows, ad med by trees and country seats, that give an ancient appearance and St. John. It contains a Post-office, two Churches, and other houses of worship. Two salt springs have been discovered; they supply about fifty gaUons of water per minute. Every hundred galloL yidds^ manJXX "T’ i bushels of very pure salt. A small salt manufactory has been established at the site; but, from the low price foreign salt, it is not profitable, and the works have fallen into ecay. ypsum and limestone are abundant. Roads have been opened to the surrounding new settlements, and improvements are steadily advancing. Between Sussex Vale and the head of the Peti- codiac River, there is a large tract of excellent land still remaining un- settled ; and other parts of the parish offer many advantages to immi- grant, or young men who are attached to husbandry. A single sprint in this parish supplies sufficient water for a powerful fiour-mill, and p-cat masses of beautiful crystals of sulphate of lime are daily forming in a piece of low swampy ground. Smith s Creek, a branch of the Kenebecasis, runs in a north-east Erection from Sussex Vale, and meets the Anagance, a branch of the Beticodiac. It passes through a tract of fine intervale. Walled in on each side by high hills, after it diverges from the main stream, it winds Its way through a narrow valley, having Mount Pisgah at its confluence with Salmon River. The soil in this quarter is very erti e. Occasionally small tracts of light sand occur, covered with L 2 148 NEW BRUNSWICK. peat from four to ten feet in thickness. Near the source of the stream, there are two salt springs. The Mill Stream, another branch of the above river, after extending through a notch in the hills northward of Sussex, proceeds along a broad^trough until its branches are interwoven with those of the Washa- damoak. This trough-like valley surpasses in size Sussex Vale, and extends from the head of Belle Isle Bay directly across the country to the parish of Salisbury, in Westmoreland, and falls away in the low, level land of the Gulf shore. Between the valley of the Kenehecasis and Belle Isle, there is a moderately elevated tract of land, called Butternut Ridge, running along the parish of Studholm. The soil on this ridge is also of a superior quality, and limestone is abundant. Wheat and other kinds of grain return excellent crops. The forest consists of beautiful groves of beech, birch, and sugar maple, inter- mixed with butternut trees. The lower grounds are occupied by cedar thickets, and along the upland hollows the elm and ash add to the beauty of the forests. The parish of Springfield possesses a soil equally productive ; and, besides a series of fine farms spread along the borders of the hay and rivers, it has some thriving new settlements a little re- mote from the shores. Between the before-mentioned valley and the Washadamoak, there are several new settlements of English and Irish immigrants, who, having overcome the first obstacles of settling in a new country, are now gaining an honest independence.* Except on the margins of the largest streams, the population is scattered here and there, according to individual fancy, thousands of acres of the rich lands in this part of King’s County are still ungranted, and scarcely known to any hut the lumberman or the Indian hunter. From the highest hill of Springfield, the eye may wander over the wild forests, which, in a north-east direction, are still unbroken. One • A number of these immigrants landed in the Province from eight to four- teen years ago, without any means of subsistence. Parents carried their chil- dren upon their backs into the country, and lived in shanties, among the trees, upon the most humble fare. By their industry, they afterwards paid for their lots, cleared away the forest, made farms, and now drive their waggons to the market at St. John loaded with the surplus produce of their fields. new BRUNSWICK. vast, rich, and variegated assemblage of forest-trees waves proudly over the earth, like wheat before the harvest. The valley of the Belle Isle, and Studville, with its scattered settlements and farms, shows where the industry of man is employed, and which, from year to year, IS notching the dark and silent groves with cultivated fields and rich meadows. The Panshes of Norton and Hampton are situated on the south-west Mde of the Kenebecasis Bay, and River. Along the St. John and Halifax Road, and the sides of the rivers, they are well improved. At Hampton Ferry a bridge has been thrown across the river, and a pretty village, with an Episcopal Church, has sprung up within the space of a few years. A larp settlement, with a Church, also appears near Gon- dola Point, opposite Kingston, where the whole shore is a succession of fine farms ; and the beautiful islands at the head of the bay are either under the operations of the plough, qr produce beneath their trees crops of wild hay— the natural produce of all the intervales. Hammond River runs through a fine plat of alluvial soil, skirted vrith some good farms, and rushes through a narrow rocky gorge, a little way above its bridge, and the cultivated district at its mouth. Along sides of the stream there are limestone, gypsum, and salt springs. Graphite, or plumbago, of a superior quality, has also been found in the rocks of the hills. Westfield and Greenwich are on the west side of the St. John, and contain some of the settlements on the road leading from Carlton to Fredericton. Wherever clearings have been made, roads have been opened, and the cultivated districts are intersected by them in every direction. Salmon and trout are taken in all the rivers. Lumbering IS not carried on very extensively in this county, agriculture beindng their children, the sick, aged, and infirm, through clouds of smoke and showers of fire that threatened in- stant destruction. Many believed that the day of final judgment had arrived, and gave themselves over to despair. The piercing cry of “ To the river ! ” was not unheeded. Some plunged into the water, others collected in boats and scows or rafts, or fioated on logs, for pro- tection. Domestic and even wild animals, uttering mournful cries, mingled with the people, the former dragging their half-burnt bodies through the cinders of their burning stalls. The whole surface of the earth was on fire, and everything of a combustible nature united in sending up the last broad flame, that laid the country, with its towns, villages, and settlements, in heaps of smouldering ashes. In the space of a single hour, Newcastle, Douglastown, and the villages along the northern side of the river were consumed ; of five hundred buildings 192 NEW BRUNSWICK. only twenty-five remained. The Barracks, Court-house, Presbyterian Church, Hospital, and upwards of 240 houses and stores were des- troyed at the former place. Three ships with their cargoes were burnt in the harbour, and two more upon the stocks. But the great fire ha not been confined to this district ; it had swept over the whole country from the Bartibog to the Nashwaak, a distance of more than one bun- , dred miles. It had rushed across the mountains of the Upper Tobique, upwards of a hundred miles distant, in another direction, and wrapt m flame an area of more than 6,000 square miles ; and it is.still painful to reflect upon the horrors experienced by many new settlers and lumbermen, who with their families perished in the burning wilderness, and whose remains were afterwards found in those attitudes of filial and paternal afibetion that are so fully exhibited in the hour of afflic- tion and danger. A number of lumbermen preserved their lives by wallowing in the brooks until the fire had subsided, and a few families were preserved by similar expedients. So intense was the heat at places where the forest hung over the streams, that thousands of salmon and other kinds of fish were killed and cast upon the shores. Great numbers of wild animals were also destroyed ; and it is stated by an eye-witness, that birds were drawn into the flames by some singular fascination. A more melancholy scene can scarcely be imagined than this part of New Bmnswick presented on the following day. The whole forest was a blackened mass of leafless and still-burning timber. Every . vegetable, including the crops of the husbandman, was burnt up, and the entire surface of the cleared land was shrouded in a black mantle. Along the northern borders of the Miraniichi, groups of half-naked and houseless inhabitants were to be seen bewailing the loss of husbands, wives, children, and friends. With them were the burned and wounded, receiving the kind aid of those who had escaped unscorched. The suf- ferings of these people were indeed of the most painful character ; but they^were promptly relieved by the inhabitants of the opposite side of the river and the Province generally, whose charitable associations and benevolent ladies supplied money, clothes, and provisions ; and, by generous contributions, the losses sustained under a painful dispensa- tion of Divine Providence were greatly reduced. NEW UIUJNSWICK. 193 1 he amount of loss incurred by the great fire, according to an ac- count laid before Sir Howard Douglas, then Lieutenant-Governor of the Province, and made up at Miramichi, was £227,713 13s. 6d. That sum only included personal property, goods, buildings, crops, &c. destroyed. £39,259 7s. lOd. was nobly contributed in New Bruns- wick, Nova Scotia, Canada, the United States, and Great Britain, and applied to the immediate relief of the sufferers; but the calamity had extended almost beyond the bounds of calculation, and the Province sustained an irreparable loss in her forests of timber, which has been estimated at £500,000. The towns and villages destroyed have since been recovered, and are now more extensive and better built than they were before the conflagration. It is not a little remarkable, that on the same day the District of Miramichi was laid in ruins, Arcs broke out in the County of York, and near the Oromucto. At the former place, while the inhabitants were engaged in subduing the devouring element a mile from Frederic- ton, a fire took place in the town, and consumed eighty-nine buildings and other property to the amount of £50,000. Twenty houses and barns were also burnt in the neighbourhood of the Oromucto. The number of persons burnt and drowned at Miramichi was 160 ; build- ings destroyed, 595 ; cattle destroyed, 875. — But we turn from this painful record to describe the remaining part of the county. The South-west branch of the river receives a number of minor streams. Of these are, Barnaby River, extending into the parish of Glenelg ; the Renous stream has a pretty settlement near its mouth. The Etienne reaches into the Parish of Black ville, where there are several flourishing new clearings, occupied chiefly by Irish emigrants. The banks of the main stream are also thinly settled from Newcastle to Boistown ; and even above that place a number of families have established themselves upon the wild lands. There is much good soil in this quarter — although some tracts have an uneven surface, and are rather stony. Between the main South-west branch, towards its sources, and the St. John, will be found an immense tract of land whose soil is better than ordinary, and few places in the Province offer greater encouragement for extensive agricultural operations. About a mile above Newcastle, the Nortli-west (Minagua of the o NEW BRUNSWICK. 194 Indians) joins the Southern branch. It takes its rise near the Tohiquc Lakes, and high lands at the head of the Nepisiguit. Between the two streams there is a portage to the Falls of the latter. The North- west branch is perhaps eighty miles in length, and its chief tributaries are Tomoganops and Sevogle. All these rivulets are navigable for light canoes, unless at the places where they are broken by falls ; and they are very useful in affording a passage for the provisions required by tbe lumbermen, and for floating down the timber. A few adven- turers have commenced the clearing of land on their lower banks. The main branch is well populated on both of its sides to the dis- tance of twenty miles from its mouth ; and at a short distance from the stream there is a thriving settlement of Welsh Methodists, who, with the Roman Catholics and the Baptists, have commodious chapels in the principal villages. The mouth of the North-west branch is navi- gable for ships, and the tide flows up its channel fifteen miles. Saw- mills are very numerous, and the stream sends down great quantities of manufactured lumber annually. A small river called the Bartibog empties itself into Miramichi Bay. It runs through an Irish settlement containing about forty families, and turns several saw-mills. It was formerly well timbered ; buf its pineries were destroyed, and the surface presents a gloomy aspect since the occurrence of the great fire. From Newcastle to Burnt Church there is a passable road, bordered by a succession of farms. This place, formerly called Neguac, is an ancient camping-ground of the Indians, who still occupy a reserve of several hundred acres, and resort to it in the fishing season. The lands are .light, and but unperfectly tilled by the few inhabitants scattered along the shore. Extensive sand-bars have been driven up along the coast ; but beyond these there are some excellent fishing-grounds, which are seldom visited by the inhabitants, who prefer lumbering to almost any other pursuit. Taboosintac,* the only remaining river to be noticed in the county, springs from numerous branches in low tracts of land remote from the shore, and wends its way through some good belts of intervale and upland, covered by the pines, birch, and maplci It finally makes its Indian — “The place of two families or persons.” NEW BRUNSWICK. 195 debouchement into a lagoon opened by a channel of seven feet water at common tides. Timber is prepared for market in this quarter, and transported hence to the Miramichi. It has a village of about sixty families, with saw and grist mills ; but the occupancy of the lands has been retarded from the existence of an Indian reserve at the mouth of the tributary called Cowwesiget, which includes five miles of the river’s bank. In spring, the mouth of the stream supplies plenty of alewives; and in August, salmon, herring, and mackerel frequent the coast — although few* of them are taken, and little advantage is derived from the fishery. From this place there are bad roads to Tracodie and Neguac. Old Indian portages are still travelled between the rivers. Along these streams, and at their sources, there is a wide and advan- tageous field for the introduction of emigrants, thousands of whom might enter upon the lands with advantage to themselves, and benefit to this part of the county, which at present is almost destitute of roads. Almost the entire area of Northumberland is within the limits of the great coal-field of the Province. At several places coal has been dis- covered, and at others there are indications of its existence. The lands along the coast, like those of the eastern districts, are very low, and at the distance of fifty miles from the seaboard they are scarcely raised forty feet above the tide level. This observation will not, however, ®PPly til® wilderness country at the sources of the North-west Mira- michi, where there are mountains of considerable altitude. In the soils there is considerable diversity. The intervales along the streams are chiefly fine dark-coloured alluviums, which produce good crops of grain ; the higher terraces contain more sand and gravel, and produce excellent grain of different kinds, also potatoes and garden vegetables. Having resulted from the disintegration of the sandstones beneath, many of the upland soils are of a dark, red, or chocolate colour, and the marly varieties will endure several croppings without the applica- tion of manure. With these are the gravelly and sandy loams most frequently reposing on thick beds of detritus. They are more porous and less fertile, and do not retain their moisture in seasons of drought. Independently of its timber and fisheries, the county, under a general view, must he considered favourable for agriculture, fishing, and the ultimate introduction of general manufacture. o 2 19G NEW BRUNSWICK. County oj Gloucester. The County of Gloucester was divided by an Act of the Provincial Parliament in March 1837, and all its former western part, from Belle Dune River, now constitutes the County of Restigouche. It therefore joins Northumberland on the east and south, Restigouche on the west, and the Bay Chaleurs on the north. It contains 1,037,440 square acres, and the latter has a population of about 9,000 souls on 12,000 acres of cleared land. The parishes are, Bathurst, Beresford, New Bandon, Caraquet, and Saumarez. From the great extent of the sea« coast and the number of its rivers, Gloucester possesses great facilities for navigation, fishing, and lumbering. Bathurst (formerly called St. Peter’s), the shire town and a flourish- ing sea-i)ort, is situated at the head of a beautiful bay of that name. This place was the boundary between the Mohawk Indians of Canada and the Micmacs of Nova Scotia, and several sanguinary conflicts have taken place between those tribes in its vicinity. It is supposed to have been occupied by Monsieur Jean- Jacques Enaud as early as 1638. The town is built upon two somewhat elevated points of land, which are separated from each other by a shallow estuary. Across this estu- ary a bridge has been constructed upon piles, whereby a ready commu- nication is afibrded between its opposite sides. The east side of Bathurst Point is washed by the mouth of the Nepisiguit. The site of the town is one of the most beautiful spots in the Province. It commands a view of the bay and islands, and the villages and clearings on their borders, being more than ordinarily healthy. The town is laid out in a regular manner, and contains a number of handsome dwelling-houses, warehouses, mercantile and ship-building establishments, an Episcopal Church, Methodist Chapel, Custom-house, Court-house, and Gaol. At the western extremity of the bridge are the mercantile houses of Francis Ferguson, Esq. ; and a cluster of buildings are stretched along the base of a hiU, which is surmounted by a spacious and handsome Roman Catholic Chapel and Missionary residence. The little basin is also bordered by good farms and comfortable cottages. The town plat at its eastern side is the principal site for ship-building, and frequently from five to ten merchant-ships of the largest class rest upon their NEW iniUNSWiCK. 197 stocks with only sufficient space between them for the workmen to pass from the timber-yards to the shore. The front of the town is often occupied by rafts, and piles of squared timber and deals. A number of ships are annually loaded in the harbour and at the bar for the British market, and during the summer season the whole scene is enlivened by active industry. The great road from the Southern Counties is conti- nued across the Nepisiguit at Bathurst by a ferry. A bridge over this stream is still a desideratum. Four rivers empty themselves into Bathurst Harbour. Of these the most important is the Great Nepisiguit.* This river (which, with its falls, has been briefly noticed in a former chapter) is computed to be one hundred miles in length. The main trunk, and its branches, the Laskoodic, Parbooktic, and Pabineau, descend from the western wil- derness, and through dense forests of white and red pine, interspersed by belts of beech, birch, maple, and other kinds of hard wood. It is thinly inhabited to a short distance from its mouth. Timber may be floated down this stream from a great distance, although the Falls, twenty miles from Bathurst, present an obstacle of no ordinary magni- tude. Timber in descending this cascade is frequently hurled into the air and broken by its fall, or, being forced against the projecting angles of rock, is much splintered and otherwise injured. Probably a sluice might be constructed wherein it would pass endwise over the precipice, and fall in the same position into the deep water beneath. Middle River and Little Nepisiguit are small rivulets partially occu- pied by settlers on their lower borders. The Tootoogooscj" is a pretty stream flowing from a lake twenty-flve miles distant. At its mouth there is an extensive and valuable farming estate, the property of Hugh Munroe, Esq. Seven miles above, there is a flourishing Scotch settlement gradually expanding itself into the forest. In 1837, the Provincial Government granted a lease for fifty years to a Company, called the Gloucester Mining Association, of all such mines and minerals as they should discover, open, and work in the • Called by the Indians, Winkapiguwick ; signifying, '‘boisterous or trou- bled water.” t Tootoogoose^ “ Fairy River” of the Indians; corrupted by the French into Tete-A-gouche, and frequently called Tattygouch. 198 NEW BRUNSWICK. term of five years from that date. In the latter period, the Company expended much labour and money in searching for copper at the mouth of the Great Nepisiguit, and in boring for coal, at the Capes, eighteen miles below Bathurst. In both of those undertakings they were un- successful ; but in exploring for copper on the Tootoogoose River, an ore of manganese was discovered, and proved to be of good quality. The mine is situated in the bank of the above stream, eight miles from Bathurst, in the side of a cliff 150 feet high. The river at this place falls twenty-five feet, and the water has been ingeniously turned to propel the machinery required for cleansing the ore, several hundred tons of which have been shipped for England. The Company have expended upwards of £10,000 in the enterprise; but, unfortunately, they have not yet received any interest from the outlay, notwithstanding the zeal and ability of William Stephens, Esq. their Agent, and the undertaking is likely to be abandoned. All these rivulets descend through tracts of good soil ; but at their sources the land is rather broken and hilly ; yet even in such situations there are many tracts worthy of cultivation. The soils in the neigh- bourhood of Bathurst are generally productive, and agriculture has advanced rapidly during the last few years. Francis Ferguson, Esq. has upwards of eighty acres under cultivation, and by applying com- post manure, formed chiefiy of lime and peat, he has raised abundant crops of wheat and other kinds of grain. That gentleman and others in the town have done much to improve the agriculture of the county, and the district may now be looked upon as a proper resort for a large population. Leaving Bathurst, we may return to the coast, and examine the Parish of Saumarez, which embraces the headland, with its islands, situated between Miramichi and Bay Chaleurs. At the mouth of Tracadie Rivers, there is a lagoon twelve miles long, with an average breadth of a mile. Through the sand-bar forming the basin, the channel is too shallow to admit large vessels ; and from the constant shifting of the shingle beaches, the pilotage is rendered difficult. These are small sluggish streams, and the lands are rather sandy. Red and white pine are still to be obtained in considerable supplies. There are here several large and compact settlements of Acadian French, containing altogether not less than oneUousand souls. NEW BRUNSWICK. 199 About fifty boats and shallops are employed in fishing ; and cured fish are annually shipped to the markets of Miramichi, Halifax, and Gaspe. Agriculture is pursued by a part of the population. At Great Tracadie there is a handsome Chapel, and many of the inhabitants are in very independent circumstances. Pockmouche is a broad and shallow stream, not exceeding thirty miles in length. Its borders have been well timbered, and there are some intervales near its sources. Small plats of salt marsh at its mouth produce wild hay. The uplands are very low, and often light and sandy. The population of Pockmouche is about five hundred persons, Acadians and Irish, who are chiefly employed in fishing, hewing tim- ber, and farming. The principal village has its Chapel and School, and mills have been erected on the stream. The Harbours of Shippegan and Caraquette have been already described. From their peculiar situation at the extremity of a cape projecting deeply into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, they afford many advantages for fishing, and ample security to the trade and shipping of the coast. The Islands of Shippegan, Miscou, and Poksudie, also, from being indented by numerous small coves or bays, are especially adapted for fisliing stations. The former of these is twenty miles long. The soil, where it is sufficiently elevated to be tilled, is a light sandy loam, not unfavourable for cultivation with sea-manure. It produces small birch, fir and spruce, with cranberries, whortleberries, and other wild fruits. On the western shores of the island there are two settlements, called Big and Little Amacque. The oysters of this island are considered excellent, and cargoes of them are annually shipped to Halifax and Quebec. Miscou Island, forming the extremity of the cape, is twenty-one miles in circumference. Its northern point is in lat. 47® 58', and in long. 64® 30' . Previous to the conquest of Canada, the French had an extensive fishing establishment at this place, owned by the ** Com- pany of Miscou.** The remains of their buildings are still to be seen. It was afterwards occupied by Campbell, a disbanded Highland soldier, and his family, three of whom were drowned in an attempt to cross to Shippegan in a boat. Mall Bay, a convenient indentation on its 200 NliW BRUNSWICK. southern side, is bordered by tracts of marsh and meadow, which pro- duce wild hay abundantly. The fishing season is between tlie 1st of June and the 10th of July, at which time the boats and vessels of Cara- quette, Shippegan, and Gaspe hover around the shores, and take from fifteen to twenty thousand quintals of cod, pollock, and haddock annually. Tliese islands, with those of Poksudie, Miscou, and Caraquette, are inhabited by foxes ; and upon them wild geese and ducks bring forth their brood. The Americans fish in these waters with impunity. Opposite Big and Little Amacque, on the main land, is the settle- ment of Shippegan, whose population, with that of the island, will exceed 900 souls. The inhabitants are chiefly Acadian French, who devote their time almost exclusively to the cod-fishery, in which they employ upwards of fifty boats and a number of small shallops. The latter craft also fish in the Gulf, and on the banks of Prince Edward’s Island. The soil of Shippegan might be successfully cultivated ; but, until of late, its capabilities have not been tested by experience. Rafts of timber are»sometimes poled along the shore to Miramichi. The exports of fish and lumber from this place have increased rapidly during the last few years, and now amount to £20,000 per annum. The principal business has been transacted by the Agents of Messrs. Robin & Co., and Le Boutillier & Brothers, of the Island of Jersey, and who are also extensively engaged in the fisheries of Gaspe. The settlement of Caraquette stretches along the shore to the distance of tw'elve miles. At its head is the site of an old Roman Catholic Chapel, one of the most beautiful spots in the Province. On one of its sides, a stream of water gushes from the rock ; and on the other is a plat of greensward, surrounded by a rich forest of birch and maple. It also commands a view of the bay and harbours below, and the distant mountains of Gaspe. The present chapel is a handsome stone building, of dimensions suitable to contain 800 persons, and its interior is highly decorated with paintings and sculpture. The land is fertile, and, under careful culture, produces grain and the vegetables common to the country in abundance. The population will amount to 1,500. They are nearly all Acadians — among whom may be observed the complexion and features of the Micmac Indians, who NEW BRUNSWICK. 201 (luring the early settlement of the country married with these people, such a union being encouraged by the French Government from motives of policy. They send upwards of a hundred boats and a number of schooners to the fisheries, and firom them derive their domestic sup- plies, and a surplus for exportation. About thirty families are scattered along the shore to Grand Ance, where there is also a chapel and several mills. Still farther westward, there is a group of upwards of eighty families, chiefiy Irish from Ban- don near Cork : hence their village is called New Bandon. The whole of the lands forming this cape, with its adjacent islands, are very low, being seldom elevated above the sea more than sixteen feet. Its level is only interrupted by the channels of the river and brooks, many of which have their beds but a little lower than the sur- face. The drier tracts are not the less fertile on that account ; but, from the lack of a quick drainage, bogs and swamps are more common than they are in higher districts. The soils are not dissimilar to those of other parts of the coal-field, and on many of the wilderness tracts they will be found strong and well adapted for wheat -and other kinds of grain. We have seen that this tract of country, containing at least a thou- sand square miles, is only occupied by clusters of inhabitants at the mouths of the rivers and sides of the harbours : even along the borders of the coast, the native green forest extends to the brink of the sea, being but partially indented by clearings. In general, only the first tier of lots has been granted ; the remaining part of the soil the Go- vernment is ready to dispose of to industrious cultivators. All the streams abound in trout and eels at all times : salmon, bass, gaspereau or alewives, and other kinds of fish, are readily taken in their season. In the deeper waters, are cod, pollock, haddock, halibut, &c. ; and oysters and lobsters are remarkably plentiful. Wild geese, ducks of various kinds, curlew, plover, partridges, and other birds, are still numerous. This part of the county may be considered to be still in a wilderness state, and almost without any facilities of communication except by water. A road is marked on several maps as running along the whole coast ; but it has no real existence, nor are there any bridges across 202 NEW BRUNSWICK. many of the numerous streams of the parish. The making of roads and the introduction of agriculture would lead to the more vigorous prose- * cution of the fisheries ; but until there are settlers to occupy the lands, the opening of roads in the wilderness is of doubtful expediency. Proceeding along the south shore of Bay Chaleurs from Bathurst to the mouth of the Restigouche, a distance of seventy miles, we find a few scattered villages and settlements upon the immediate border of the sea. The interior country is but little known, except by a few Indian hunters and lumbermen. It abounds in lakes and rivulets. The latter descend from the mountainous chain already noticed, and which termi- nates at the sources of the principal tributaries of the St. John, and the rivers falling into the Gulf and Bay. Much of the soil is evidently good, and there are tracts of table land admirably adapted for the plough. The surface is greatly diversified by hill and valley, and pre- sents a scene of unusual wildness and solitude. A few miles northward of the Nepisiguit, there is a settlement called Petit Roche, comprising two hundred families of French Acadians, whose ancestors fled from Nova Scotia during its early troubles. The farms and buildings of these people are small, and lack the neatness sometimes seen in French villages. They have a large Chapel. The threefold objects of farming, fishing, and lumbering, pursued by the inhabitants, are- sufficient to account for their slow advancement. Lime- stone is calcined in this village, and shipped to Prince Edward’s Island. At Belle Dune there are some good farms. The wild lands are chiefly covered with beautiful groves of birch, and other kinds of hard wood. Cedar and spruce are common on the lower tracts ; limestone is abundant ; and caplin and herring come in such multitudes, that they are caught and carted upon the soil for manure. The application of fish for manure should not be tolerated ; and it has been discovered, that although they increase the growth of a few crops, the lands are ultimately injured by them, and require annually the unnatural stimu- lus. The settlers are chiefly Irish Roman Catholics, who have a Chapel and the occasional services of a Missionary. Francis Guitan, one of its earliest inhabitants, was one of the dragoons who conducted Robes- pierre to the guillotine, and served with Bonaparte at Marengo and Lodi. NEW BRUNSWICK. 20S County of Restigouche. Still advancing along the coast, we enter the District of Restigouche. This county is bounded on the south-east by Gloucester, south-west by wilderness lands, and north by the Bay Chaleurs and Restigouche, or the boundary between New Brunswick and Canada. It contains 1,266,560 square acres. Jacquet River, about nine miles from Belle Dune, descends from the mountains to the south. It is a rapid stream, scarcely navigable for canoes. The lands near its mouth are of good quality, and may be rendered very fertile by the application of lime and marl, of which there is an abundant supply on the shore. At a short distance from the sea- board they are still ungranted. This part of the Bay-side is sheltered by Heron Island and Black Point, which form a safe harbour. The population is scattered. It is very desirable that the new road between Bathurst and Dalhousie should be completed, and the erection of a bridge over Jacquet River is necessary to a safe and comfortable conveyance between those towms. In 1842 the road was a series of swamps, partially filled by short logs, or projecting masses of rock, ever threatening a capsize to the passenger. The traveller is sometimes relieved of these obstacles by being driven along a narrow path to the very brink of the sea-wall or among the soft sand, and slippery kelp, and driftwood of the shore, where both horse and driver are sometimes greeted with a shower of spray from every wave. The bridges across the gullies are like those built by children, after a heavy shower, except that some of them are upon a larger scale, and more deserving of the appellation of horse- traps. To add to these impediments, the inhabitants, where the ground is level, have encroached upon the pathways, leaving only the length of a cart- axle between the fences for the accommodation of the voyageur^ who at almost every step is saluted by the kind Prenez-garde” of the watch- ful Acadians. At Nash’s Creek, there is a small settlement a mile and a half inland: from it to Dalhousie the distance is nineteen miles. Benjamin River, North and South Rivers Charlo, are small rapid streams. New Mills, formerly called Merloguish, was first occupied by a NEW BRUNSWICK. 20‘i Mr. Rumpoft, a Dutch merchant, who for many years was engaged in ship-building and fishing at that place. The establishment was since occupied by Wm. Fleming, Esq., who erected grist and saw mills upon the stream. Heron and a cluster of smaller islands afford good shelter for vessels, and the Inshore fishery is still valuable. The margin of this part of the Bay is very thinly settled. The popu- lation consists of Provincials, Scotch, Irish, and Acadian French, who appear to live together in great harmony. Some fine fields have been cleared ; and since the attention of the inhabitants has been directed to husbandry, their labour has been rewarded by substantial crops. Wheat, although late in ripening, often yields from twenty to thirty bushels per acre ; oats produce a certain crop ; and all kinds of vegetables may be successfully cultivated. Across the mouth of Eel River the sea has thrown up a bank of sand a mile in length, and the site thus offered for a road has been improved. A bridge has been erected to connect the sand-bar with the opposite side of the stream. The remainder of the distance to Dalhousie is four miles, and the road passes over three sharp ridges of trap rock. Eel River is a long, narrow stream : it commences near the Upsal- quitch, and traverses a fine level district of fertUe land almost sur- rounded by mountains. An opening has been made upon a tract recently surveyed, called the Colebrooke Settlement, in honour of Sir William Colebrooke. There are also settlements on each side of the river near its d6bouchement. Still, a great quantity of these lands are ungranted, and there are few localities where a respectable class of settlers would meet with greater encouragement. The Indians have a grant at this place of 400 acres, and they resort to it during fishing and shooting seasons. Their laud, however, is very low and swampy, and scarcely fit for tillage. The sea-wall thrown up across the estuary has formed a large shallow basin, with a muddy bot- tom, which affords one of the best fisheries for eels in the Province. The eels are taken by the Indians at all seasons of the year, and supply them with an important part of their food. Wlien they are skinned and dned, they are by no means unpalatable ; and when fresh, they - are considered by many to be very delicious. It IS rather singular, that cod-fish in quest of food enter this and NEW lillUNSWICK. 205 Other shallow estuaries along the coast during the winter season. The Indians cut holes through the ice, and strike them with spears. Eels are taken in the same manner. Trout, smelts, and flatfish are also numerous ; and in spring and autumn the little bay is the resort of wild geese and other kinds of water-fowl. The shores, bays, and inlets between Bathurst and Dalhousie afford excellent fisheries for cod, pollock, haddock, halibut, herring, sea- trout, smelts, eels, and other varieties of fish. Caplin are so numerous, that they are often applied to the soil for manure. This destruction of the small fish reduces the quantity of food intended by nature for the larger ones, and, if continued, will greatly injure the fisheries. Provi- dence never intended that any of her gifts should be thus abused ; and in a district where limestone and marl are abundant, the practice is inexcusable, and should be prevented by law. Seals of different kinds are frequently seen in considerable numbers in the Bay. They were taken by the first inhabitants of this part of the Province, who carried on a considerable trade in seal-skins and oil. At present the seal-fishery is not attended to. Whales of the humpback variety frequent the coasts, and are taken at the mouth of the St. Lawrence and in the Gulf, They also visit the Bay Chaleurs ; but the inhabitants are not prepared to encounter them, although they are readily captured by export whalers. These waters abound in wild geese and ducks of various kinds. Of the former, flocks containing thousands feed upon the shores during the autumn, until the season of their migration arrives, when they depart for warmer latitudes. The County of Restigouche is divided into five parishes, — namely, Dalhousie, Addington, Durham, Colbourne, and Eldon. The popula- tion in 1840 was 3,161, exclusive of about 1,200 persons who were supposed to be engaged in the woods, in lumbering, at the time the census was taken. At that period, the Parish of Eldon contained only eight dwelling-houses and twenty- seven acres of cleared land. The whole quantity of cleared land in the county at the present time will not exceed 6,500 square acres, and therefore a particular account of each parish is unnecessary. The Restigouche is a majestic and very beautiful river, falling into 206 NEW BRUNSWICK. the spacious harbour at the head of the Bay Chaleurs ; and its tribu» taries irrigate more than five thousand square miles of territory. The main river springs from a lake in Lower Canada, and through branches that approach takes Temiscouta and Metis. Sixty miles from its dehouchement into the bay, the river turns from a south-west to a north- west course, and receives a large branch that nearly approaches the St. John. A large tributary, called the Upsalquitch, also enters from the south-east, about forty miles above the head of the bay. The whole length of the main stream is about two hundred miles, and the waters that are navigable for canoes and rafts will exceed a distance of four hundred miles. The river and its tributaries descend through a tract of country of varied resources and beautiful scenery. They drain a part of that spur of the Alleghany Mountain that crosses the St. John, and occupies the central parts of the District of Gaspe. Its appendant tributaries rush from the mountain ravines with great impetuosity, and throw themselves into frightful rapids, or over falls, until they reach the narrow valley of the main stream, whence they are sufficiently tranquil to admit of being navigated in safety. Upon the borders, and remote from these water- courses, red pine, white pine, and other kinds of valuable wood are abundant ; and, by the skill of the lumberman, the timber is launched down the steep declivities and perpendicular cliff’s, through the rapids and over the falls, until it floats in the tide. This part of the Province has been spared from those devouring fires which have been so destructive to the timber in the District of Mira- michi, and other parts of New Brunswick ; and a century will elapse before the forests of Gaspe and Restigouche will be exhausted of their timber resources. The valuable fisheries of the Bay, under proper management, would supply the elements of a very extensive trade ; and the valleys, slopes, and table lands of the interior wilderness are capable of being advantageously cultivated. In the centre of this great theatre of ofiTered industry and employment, is the splendid Harbour of Restigouche, which is sufficiently spacious to contain the whole navy of Great Britain, and rivers upon which the first produce of the country can be cheaply transported. The entrance of the River or Harbour of Restigouche is between NEW BRUNSWICK. 207 Magashua Point on the north, and Bon Amie’s Rock on the south. The distance between these two headlands is three miles ; and there are nine fathoms of water, without a bar or shoal to interrupt the naviga- tion of the port’s mouth. * Dalhousie, the shire town of the county, stands at the base of a high ridge of trap rock on the south side of the river, a little above its mouth. It contains about one hundred and thirty buildings, among which are the usual number devoted to religious worship, a Court- house, Gaol, and Grammar-school. I'he principal mercantile establish- ments front the river, which is lined by wharves, ship-yards, and timber- booms. The site of the town is on an inclined plane ; hut the entrance to it from the eastward, by land, is over a steep hill, which might be avoided by giving the road another direction. In the harbour there are two small islands, surrounded by deep water, and affording shelter for vessels of the largest class. The opposite side of the river, which is uninhabited, expands into a beauti- ful bay, bordered by high cliffs of red sandstone. A very extensive timber trade is carried on from this port to Great Britain ; fish is also an article of traffic. The supplies of provisions are chiefly received from Quebec. During a decline of the timber trade, the attention of a number of the inhabitants was directed to agriculture ; and the Agri- cultural Society of Restigouche has given an encouragement to hus- bandry which will not lose its effect now that commerce has again revived. The scenery of the town, with its harbour and islands, is very in- teresting ; but it is tame when compared with a more extended view. The whole District of Gaspe presents bold and precipitous eminences, flanked along the shore by perpendicular cliffs of brick -red sandstone and other rocks, which are cut through where the streams make their exit into the bay. Upon these cliffs there is a long tract of table land, which skirts the shore, while in the rear it rises into mountains of the most striking and picturesque character. From the hill in the rear of Dalhousie, the Tracadegash and other mountains of Gaspe are seen rising in great grandeur ; and the whole country northward is covered with majestic cones, which are wooded to their very summits. Between the sharp alpine ridges, walled in by cliffs, there are narrow valleys, 208 NEW BRUNSWICK. washed by the collected mountain torrents in their rapid descent to- wards the sea. This, the north-eastern extremity of the Alleghany chain, maintains its bold features to its termination near the mouth of the St. Lawrence, and offers to the eye a view of an unknown moun- tain wilderness. The Restigouche is navigable for large ships eighteen miles ; in that distance its average breadth is nearly two miles. Its southern bank is occupied by a scattered population. The soil is of medium quality ; and the surface, a little remote from the river, is broken by closely- wooded hills and ravines. Point Aninnipk, eight miles, and Point Le Garde, twelve miles above Dalhousie, on the Gaspe side, are bold prominences, and were military stations during the struggles of France to regain the Colony. Battery Point, two miles higher up, was also occupied by a French fort. Seve- ral pieces of cannon liave been found in the sand ; and muskets, pistols, swords, and culinary utensils have been dug up from the remains of this fortification. A few years ago, a bottle of molasses and a small case of wine were also recovered from among its ruins.* This fort was destroyed by Captain Byron in 1760. It is now covered by a growth of forest-trees. The Gaspe side of the river at this place also is un- inhabited. Campbelltown is situated sixteen miles above Dalhousie. It is a compact village, with several trading-houses, docks, and timber-ponds. A number of ships are annually loaded at this place, and it maintains a brisk trade with the lumbering parties in the forests. The lands on each side of the river are rather broken and rocky. There is, neverthe- less, a narrow flat of good soil along the edge of the stream, which still continues wide and navigable for ships. In the rear of the town there is a conspicuous eminence called Sugar-loaf Mountain. It is 844 feet high, and nearly three miles in circumference at its base. The side fronting the river is a perpen- dicular cliff, from which a collection of enormous boulders extend around the eminence. It can only be ascended in safety on the east * Mr. Cooney’s work on New Brunswick and Gaspe, 1832. NEW BRUNSWICK. ^09 side. At other places, boulders weighing several tons are easily put m motion, when they roll down the side of the mountam, crushing the trees at its foot. From its top, it appears to rise from a valley like a lofty tower. The view from the summit of this hill is%xtremely grand an beautiful. The chain of mountains, with lofty peaks, running through Gaspe, indents the horizon to the north-east. The Bay Cha leurs and Restigouche, with their infant towns and villages, fill up the scenery below. To the north, there is a wide area of table land, covered by a Jiving mantle of evergreens. Three miles above Campbelltown, there is the large estate of Robert Ferguson, Esq., one of the first British settlers on the Restigouche. His establishment is situated upon a tract containing two hundred acres of intervale, the chief part of which is under cultivation. Mrs. Fergu- son was the first English child bom in this part of the Province. The sons of the above gentleman are still engaged in the timber trade of the county. The example and industry of this family, and a few others, have mainly contributed to the improvement of this part of the Res- tigouche. The lands on the Gaspe side of the river at this place are high and broken. The stream is skirted by a few level plats, and small collec- tions of marsh alluvium. The largest of these level tracts is Mission Point, the former residence of the Roman Catholic Missionary to the Micmac Indians. It contains upwards of one thousand acres of good land, which reposes upon a coal-field, and at an admirable site for a town. The Point belongs to the Indians, two hundred families of whom are settled upon it. They have a large Chapel and Mission-house, and small parcels of land under cultivation. These people are visited annu- ally by a Commissioner of Indian Affairs from Quebec, from whom they receive an allowance granted by the Government. In general, they are honest and industrious, and derive a living from lumbering, fishing, and agriculture. At Point-au-Bourdo, three miles higher up, there is also a tract of • We reached the summit of the Sugar-loaf in 1842 by its western side; but on returning it was necessary to descend over some of the cliffs on the de- cayed and partially-fallen trees — by no means a safe expedient. p o NEW BRUNSWICK. level ground. This was the site of the French town Petite Rochelle ; and the shores above and below that place were occupied by French villages, until they were destroyed by Captain Byron. They are now shipping-places, and the margin of the river is skirted by a number of large and very valuable estates. The entrance of the Metis or Kempt Road is about a mile above Point-au-Bourdo, ^nd twenty-four miles above Dalhousie. This road was intended to open a communication between the settlements on the Bay Chaleurs and Canada, and to form a part of the military route between the Provinces first proposed by Sir Howard Douglas ; but it has never been opened to any great extent, notwithstanding it is the only land communication between the Bay and the St. Lawrence. The mail was formerly carried up the south-western branch of the Resti- gouche, and across a portage to Grand River and the St. John. It now passes once a week over the Gaspe Mountains. The mail-carrier rides on horseback about sixty miles, from the Restigouche to the Patape- diac Lakes, where he feeds his horse on wild hay ; he then walks upwards of forty miles, to the Metis River. This route is uninhabited, and the path followed by the postman is over a mountainous and broken tract of wilderness country. The distance between Campbell town and Fredericton, along the pre- sent circuitous road, is upwards of two hundred miles, while on a direct route it would scarcely exceed one hundred miles. The necessity of opening a communication between those two places is yearly growing more urgent, and a free opening between the Bay Chaleurs across the country to the St. Lawrence is equally desirable. Since it has been proposed to construct a railway between Halifax and Quebec around the head estuaries of the Bay of Fundy, the inha- bitants of the southern border of the Lower St. Lawrence have ex- pressed an earnest desire to run the line across the Restigouche, and thereby unite the towns and settlements of the Bay Chaleurs with those of Canada. It is certain that such a line must necessarily pass through the mountainous districts already described; it may nevertheless be quite practicable. The opening of the railway as already proposed, to approach the Grand Falls of the St. John, would materially change the sites of the common roads between these two Provinces ; but, at the I NEW BRUNSWICK. ^11 same time, it would confer advantages upon the inhabitants that can now scarcely be anticipated. From its excellent harbours, numerous rivers, fisheries, timber, and other resources, the northern part of New Brunswick is rapidly rising in importance. The opening of the rail- way, or the roads already alluded to, would render accessible to the emigrant and settler vast tracts of valuable country, and bring into operation much of the natural produce of the districts at present unoc- cupied. The upper part of the Restigouche and its tributaries, all flowing through wild forests, have been described with the other rivers of the Province. For many years after its first discovery, the Restigouche afibrded a most profitable salmon-fishery ; but since the waters have been visited by crowds of lumbermen with their rafts, tow-boats and canoes, and saw -mills have been erected on the smaller rivulets, it has declined : and there is an annual decrease in the number of salmon that frequent the stream. On the Gaspe side of the Bay Chaleurs, there are a number of flou- rishing settlements: among them are the villages of Nouvelle, New Richmond, Tracadegash, and Caspediac. The inhabitants are a mixed population of Acadians, Irish, and Americans, many of whom are occu- pied in the different employments of fishing, lumbering, farming, and hunting. The remoteness of their situation from the seat of Govern- ment, and the want of a land communication to the St. Lawrence, have retarded the advancement of their civil and moral institutions ; and too frequently there is a reckless disregard of the laws of the country, which heretofore have been very imperfectly administered among them.* The facilities of communication by water had a material effect upon the construction of roads in the Province during its early settlement — and, indeed, until a few years ago, a good road could scarcely be found * It is necessary that emigrants, or persons in any part of Great Britain who intend to settle in the northern parts of New Brunswick, should embark on board vessels bound to Miramiclii, Richibucto, Bathurst, Restigouche, or some port on the south side of the Gulf of St. Lawrence or Bay Chaleurs. If they take shipping to any of the ports on the Bay of Fundy side of the Province, they will incur the expense of travelling over a land route of perhaps two hun- dred miles, which is very considerable. V 2 21 ^ NKW BRUNSWICK. in New Brunswick. Steamers, sloops, batteaux, and canoes traverse the principal streams in summer. In winter, sleds and sleighs, drawn by horses and oxen, pass over the ice, and transport ponderous loads of wood, hay, and agricultural produce to the markets, returning with all kinds of merchandise into the interior country. Many of the roads used in summer are abandoned in winter, and the inhabitants prefer travelling upon the ice rather than on roads liable to deep snow-drifts.* Excepting the lines between Bathurst and Dalhousie, Fredericton and St. Andrew’s, St. John and Shepody, there are tolerable roads dur- ing the summer between all the towns and principal villages. In spring, when the frost is escaping from the earth, and during the late autumnal rains, some of them are rendered almost impassable, and no established system of road-making has yet been introduced, even upon the post- roads, In the first settlement of the country, the pathways, which were afterwards improved as roads, mounted some of the highest hills, and, to avoid bogs and swamps, the routes taken were frequently very cir- cuitous. The altering and levelling of such roads, and the construction of new ones, have required the expenditure of large annual grants by the Province, which, although not always economically applied, have greatly improved the country. By the settlement of the vexed question of the payment of the Civil List in 1827, the Crown surrendered to the Province its future reve- nues from ungranted lands and timber, and a sum of no less than £171,224 was placed at the immediate disposal of the Legislature. From that time, the opening of new roads, the improving of old ones^ the construction of bridges and other public works, continued until 1842, when it was discovered that the treasury was exhausted, and the Province involved in debt. A flourishing revenue has since relieved the embarrassment in some degree, and grants of money for every ob- ject are now made with more inquiry and caution. During the “ golden days,” as they were called, expensive surveys were made in laying out roads across the forests in all directions, and in many situations where ♦ Accidents frequently happen in the spring when the ice becomes unsound, and whole teams sometimes break through into the water. Compared with the risk and danger, the loss of life is rare. NJSW BHUNSWICK. 213 the best turnpikes would, from the lack of population, have remained untravelled. Large sums were expended on routes that were afterwards abandoned, and a system of reckless extravagance prevailed that was unprecedented in the history of the Colony. The roads are divided by the Legislature into two great classes— Great roads, and Bye roads, as they are termed. The former, from extending between towns through the principal settlements, and by giving passage to the mails, are the most important. A number of them are travelled by mail-coaches, or carriages, at a rate but little inferior to the ordinary rate in England.* The management of these roads is entrusted to supervisors who reside in different counties. The bye roads extend from the great roads to the remotest settle- ments and clearings, being opened, improved, and repaired by legisla- tive grants of money and the labour of their inhabitants. Those grants are from £5 to £100 and upwards, and their whole number, and for similar objects, in some years has exceeded six hundred. For each grant or appropriation a Commissioner is appointed, and the patronage for office is altogether in the hands of the Members of the House of Assembly, who exert it to no small extent for electioneering purposes. It therefore happens that the most active partisans of the successful candidate are duly honoured by Road Commissions, and for appropria- tions greater or less according to their ability in canvassing, rather than for road-making. Besides the grants of money made annually by the • The following are the principal great roads, with distances, and the fares required from passengers who travel upon them by post From bt. John to Fredericton, 6t5 miles j fare, 20s, currency. „ St. John to St. Andrew’s, 65 miles; fare, 20s. „ St. John to Miramichi, via Bend of Peticodiac, Shediac, and Richibu 206 miles ; fare, 60s. „ St. John to Miramichi, via Fredericton, 172 miles; fare, £3. „ Fredericton to St. Andrew’s, 60 miles; fare, 20s. „ Fredericton to Woodstock, 60 miles; fare, 20s. ,, Woodstock to Grand Falls, 72 miles; fare, 30s. „ Grand Falls to Point Levi, Quebec, 220 miles; fare, £5. „ Miramichi to Bathurst, 48 miles; fare, 208. „ Bathurst to Campbelltown, 71 miles ; fare, 30s. NEW BRUNSWICK. 214 Legislature to improve the roads, the whole population from sixteen j-ears and upwards are compelled by law to perform statute labour per- sonally, or to pay an equivalent in money. The amount is from two to twenty days, including the labour of oxen and horses, according to the circumstances, property, or income of the individual. The whole system of road-making is decidedly objectionable. In the swamps of many of the new roads, large logs aie cut, from ten to fourteen feet in length, and rolled into the mud and water, and left uncovered by earth: these are called “ cross-ways” (causeways), bet- ter known to the traveller in America as corduroy bridges. Draining is much neglected, and often the centre of the road is covered with wet clay, peat, and rotten wood, through which it is next to impossible for a horse to draw a pair of wheels, should he not stick fast in the at- tempt. The statute labour is generally performed in June ; and for several weeks after it is completed, travelling is greatly retarded, and sometimes rendered dangerous. Stones, rush-bog, masses of hard clay, heaps of earth, and mud from the bottoms of the ditches, are often thrown upon the turnpike roads. The maxim of the workmen is, “ We will throw on the materials, and leave the levelling thereof to the public.” The result is, that, to avoid such impediments, the traveller turns from side to side, and along a straight line of road the path is a serpentine track, with a ditch on one hand, and heaps of rubbish on the other. Many of the “ bye” roads are intolerably bad, especially in the spring, when the frost is escaping from the earth. Yet, with this representation, it is proper to remark, that at almost every season there are some good roads, and during the summer a great number of them may be travelled with ease and satisfaction. Hitherto the bridges have been very imperfect in their construction, being often washed away by the freshets produced hy the melting snow. The building of a bridge is frequently let by contract to the lowest bidder; hence the work falls into the hands of persons totally unac- quainted with civil engineering; and if it fall down oris swept away hy the floods, the contractor is looked upon as an unfortunate rather than an unqualified bridge-builder. There is a very general post communication tliroughout the Pro- vince. Mails are carried upon the prineipal “ great” roads in passenger NEW BRUNSWICK. 2\5 f coaches, and to the chief settlements there are post-riders.**^ The rate of postage is high, and very generally complained of. The news from England by the Atlantic steamers arrives at St. John from Boston earlier than it does from Halifax, where they touch and land the New Brunswick Mail before they proceed to the United States. The Legis- lature and the Chamber of Commerce at St. John have endeavoured from time to time to promote the more speedy despatch of the Mails, for which the Province pays liberally ; but their labours have been baffled, and so long as the highest office of the Post service is made an hereditary endowment, regardless of ancestral embezzlement and defalcation, rather than a gift to merit, intelligence, and activity, the cause of the present complaints will scarcely be removed. Halifax and Quebec Railway, The first proposition to construct a railway between any part of the Atlantic or Bay of Fundy and the St. Lawrence had its origin at St. Andrew’s, and a Company was formed and incorporated, called the ** St. Andrew’s and Quebec Railroad Company,” at that place, with a proposed capital of £750,000. The distance between the two places is 270 miles, chiefly through a wilderness country, a part of which is not very favourable for cultivation. In 1836, the sum of £10,000 was granted by the Government, and expended in making the survey- After leaving St. Andrew’s, the* line was to run almost direct to the River St. John, between Woodstock and Houlton ; it then made a curve until it reached the valley of the Aroostook — thence, with several deviations, to the Sf. Lawrence, opposite Quebec. Since the above survey was made, a part of the country over which the line was to pass has been given to the Americans by the Ashburton Treaty, in the settlement of the Boundary dispute. If a new line were * The sums granted by the Legislature for the improvement of the roads 1 1846 are — For the Great Roads . £13,500 Special Grants .... 3,070 Bye Roads 13,500 Total . . £30,070 21G NEW BRUNSWICK. to be established upon British ground, it would be objectionable, on account of being very near and running parallel to the American fron- tier, whereby it could be readily interrupted in the event of any colli- sion between the inhabitants of the borders, or in time of war between the two countries. Nor could such a line form a continuous route between Great Britain and Canada, as the harbour of St. Andrew’s is sometimes ice-bound in the winter season ; and were every other cir- cumstance favourable, Nova Scotia and the chief part of New Bnms- wick would derive no advantage from it whatever. The construction of a canal between the head waters of the Bay of Fundy and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, at Bay Verte or Shediac, had been in contemplation many years, and in 1843 a survey of the coun- try was made by Captain Crawley, R.E. ; but the report of that engi- neer was unfavourable to the enterprise, and of late the undertaking is seldom noticed. The idea of opening a free channel of communication through the Lower Provinces to Canada, and thence onward to the Pacific Ocean, presented itself to MacTaggart. The report of the late Lord Durham contains a similar suggestion. Dr. Rolph, in his work on Emigration, has also detailed some of the leading advantages of a railway between Halifax and Quebec. In 1845, a Provisional Committee was formed in London, in order to undertake the great work ; prospectuses were cir- culated in the Provinces, and a general interest has been excited in favour of the undertaking. Persons deeply interested in the welfare of the Colonies have brought the subject to the notice of the Home Go- vernment, and the Colonial Legislatures have expressed a willingness to promote the noble national enterprise. Surveys and examinations of the country are already in progress, and thousands of Colonists are looking anxiously forward to the time when the work shall be com- menced. The original proposed line of railway communication was between Halifax and Quebec, passing around the estuaries of the Bay of Fundy, that the route might be rendered continuous or uninterrupted. The Chamber of Commerce and inhabitants of St. John have made objections to such a line, as it will not approach their city. They propose to lay a railway between St. John and Fredericton and the Grand Falls, and NEW BRUNSWICK. 217 to continue the route across the Bay of Fundy by steamers to Digby Strait, whence a railway may proceed to Halifax. In the present state of the country, such a line, when constructed, would remove all neces- sity for a railway in the other direction. In reference to the western route, it is practicable to run a railway from Halifax to Digby Strait, the only accessible point for a steamer in the winter season. From Digby to St. John, across the Bay of Fundy, the distance is forty-five miles. From St. John to the Grand Falls, the continuance of this line must be on the west side of the river ; on the east side it would be almost impracticable, from the extent of Kenebe- casis. Belle Isle, and Washadamoak Bays, and their intervening high and broken lands. The line, therefore, would run from Carlton, oppo- site St. John, in the direction of the present post-road to Fredericton. From Carlton to the Grand Falls, by this route, there are no insur- mountable difficulties. From some point near the Grand Falls to the River du Loup, and thence to Quebec, the routes of both lines would be the same. From Carlton to the Oromucto, a distance of fifty-four miles, the railway would pass through a thinly-populated tract of country, the soil of which is rather below medium quality, and the inland transport inconsiderable. Several blocks of wilderness land have been surveyed in this quarter by the Government ; but the good tracts that could be obtained to meet the objects of emigration are very limited, compared with those that would be intersected by the eastern line. From the Oromucto, through Fredericton to the mouth of the Aroostook, the borders of the St. John are well populated, and there are a number of settlements a little remote from the river. Between the Aroostook and Madawasca there are only a few inhabitants, except at the small village of the Grand Falls — a military station. The distance from Halifax to Quebec, by the present mail route, along the proposed western line and across the Bay of Fundy, is 614 miles ; estimated distance by the railway, 575 miles. The objections that may be made against this route are, the risk of crossing the Bay of Fundy at certain periods in the winter season, and the delay of embarking and disembarking passengers and goods from NEW BRUNSWICK. 218 the trains to a steamer, and from the steamer to the trains of a railway.* Should the magneto-telegraphic wires he laid the whole distance, the Bay of Fundy, in the present state of science, presents an insurmount- able difficulty, and one that does not exist in a route altogether over- land. The western line must necessarily pass a long distance near the boundary of the Americans, who, by the Ashburton Treaty, have a right to navigate the St. John. The eastern line would be separated from the boundary by the river, and therefore it would be safer from inter- ruption in the event of any outbreak or disturbance upon the border. There is another consideration in regard to the actual profits that would be derived from a railway between Halifax and Quebec. A line from St. John to the Grand Falls would run by the side of a fine navi- gable river. The traffic between those two places is in British manu- factured goods and provisions upwards, and great quantities of timber and agricultural produce downwards. From the speed of railway travelling, the chief part of the upward carriage of passengers and light goods, during the winter season especially, would be upon the rails ; but in summer that carriage would be divided between the trains and the river steamboats which now ply between St. John and Fredericton. Again, from the facilities offered by the river for transporting lumber downwards with the current, the old, cheap, and natural channel of transport of all wood kind would be on the water, and not upon the rails. Yet, a railway to St. John and the Grand Falls would cross a * If both lines were laid and in perfect operation, and locomotives, with trains attached, start at the same instant from Halifax, in each direction, with an equal velocity, at the moment the western trains would be at Digby, 148 miles from Halifax, the eastern trains would be at a point within twelve miles of the Bend of the Peticodiac. Now, five hours would be the least time that would be required for a steamer running ten miles an hour to cross the Bay from Digby and make a landing at St. John. During those five hours, the trains on the eastern route would have advanced at the rate of thirty-five miles an hour, or 175 miles. By having run a more direct course, they would be 200 miles in advance of the western cars, or be at Madawasca when the western trains would be ready to leave St. John. Time is distance in railway travelling, and the difference of time in favour of the eastern route is of much importance. NEW BRUNSWICK. 219 portion of the great New Brunswick coal-field, and approach beds of iron ore at Coot Hill and Woodstock ; other minerals might also be developed by its construction, and promote its successful operation. The eastern line between Halifax and Quebec would follow the almost level line of the abandoned Shubenacadia Canal, from Halifax to Truro, the distance being sixty-five miles by the post-road. It would pass through a settled country, and form the main channel of transport from and to Pictou, and all the eastern settlements of Nova Scotia. Besides the ordinary objects of traffic of the above place, coal, limestone, gypsum, sulphate of barytes, and other minerals, might be transported to Halifax advantageously. The line would then pass through the populous and thriving villages of Onslow and Londonderry, and having passed through a gorge in the Cobequid Mountains, it would enter the County of Cumberland. I have recently examined an immense deposit of iron ore recently discovered at the Londonderry Mountain :* it is one of the most extensive iron beds in America, and the ore, of the richest variety, is situated at a spot where there is abun- dant water-power to propel machinery, and both wood and coal for fuel. Fortunately, this valuable site for the manufacture of iron is not embraced by the monopoly of the General Mining Association, who have prevented the opening of mines in Nova Scotia, and is so pecu- liarly situated that it would supply all the iron required for the railway. In Cumberland the railway would approach Tatmagouche, Wallace, and Waterford Harbours; and before reaching the Bend of the Peticodiac, it •would pass through the fine agricultural districts and populous villages of Amherst, Fort Cumberland, Sackville, Dorchester, and Memramcook. The coal-field of Cumberland would be intersected at points where it is productive, or near the outcroppings of Springhill and River Philip. At the former place, one of the coal strata is twelve feet in thickness ; the coal being of a superior quality. There are also in this district inexhaustible supplies of limestone, gypsum, freestone, and grindstone, with salt springs. The population of the County of Westmoreland is now equal to 20,000. In that county and in Cumberland there are 10,000 acres of diked marsh yielding wheat and hay. The whole face This is called a mountain, although its altitude seldom exceeds 400 feet. o 220 new BRUNSWICK. of the country between Sackville and the Bend of the Peticodiac is occupied by flourishing settlements. The number of passengers and amount of railway traffic to and from this wide area would be very great. The railway would run directly from the Bend to some point north- ward of the Grand Falls (140 miles), touching Boistown on the Miramichi, and in the direction of the military road surveyed by Sir James Alexander and a party of Royal Engineers in 1844. In that distance it would cross the coal-field of New Brunswick to the distance of 120 miles, and would be over a country remarkably level and favour- able for the enterprise. Excepting only a few new settlements and clearings, this part of the line would be through vast tracts of ungranted land. The surface in general is very level, or gently undulated. At the sources of the streams there are belts of intervale, and other exalted lands ; the higher grounds have a red loamy soil, interspersed by spots of sand and gravel. The tillage surface is variable in regard to quality: swamps, bogs, and patches of almost barren sand are not uncommon ; but they bear a small proportion to the quantity of surface fit for cul- tivation, and which is frequently covered by fine belts of hard wood, spruce, pine, and other kinds of timber. In moist situations grow the ash and elm, and the swamps are occupied by white maple and alder. The w'hole of this woody region is watered by the branches of the rivers, a part of which empty themselves into the St. John, and the others into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, or Bay Chaleurs. The main South-west Miramachi and the Tobique are navigable for boats and rafts of timber far above the sites where they would be crossed by the railway, and it is at the sources of the streams that the best timber in the Province is now obtained : the groves that stood near the most navigable rivers having been felled and shipped to Great Britain, the railway would, therefore, give a new impetus to the timber traffic, and open forests of pine, and other kinds of wood, which have hitherto been considered almost inaccessible. The country between the Peticodiac and Bois- town contains coal, iron ore, gypsum, limestone, freestone, marble, &c. ; and, excepting coal, these minerals are found as far west as the valley of the Tobique. A geological survey is about to be commenced of Prince Edward’s Island, to which isolated province the contemplated railway NEW BRUNSWICK. 221 would afford many advantages ; and the whole ^strict under considera- tion is one of great resources and capabilities, and offers comfort and independence to tens of thousands of industrious emigrants. Not less than 5,000 square miles of wilderness land remain unoccupied in this part of New Brunswick, where the physical advantages of the country are equal to any of the other parts of British America. The Grand Falls of the St. John have been mentioned as being situated on the route of the railway ; but it is by no means probable that the line would touch that point, — it would rather run farther north. Here, again, another vast tract of country, abounding in excellent timber and fine intervale and uplands, would be laid open to the emigrant and settler. The Tobique is navigable for boats and rafts 100 miles from its mouth ; all the lands from its dehouchement into the St. John to the base of Blue Mountain (50 miles), to the north, are capable of successful cultivation, and many of them are superior in quality. From the region of the Tobique tbe railway may extend to Madawasca, and thence to River du Loup, and the banks of the St. Lawrence ; but the difficulties to encounter in this quarter are greater than on any other part of the line, on account of the elevations and unevenness of the surface. It has been stated that provisions and West India goods passed along this part of the proposed line in 1845, to lumbering parties in the neighbourhood of Lake Metis, to the amount of £50,000. It will then run upon favourable and almost level ground to Quebec, and through an agri- cultural district contiiining upwards of 100,000 inhabitants. The whole distance between Halifax and Quebec by this route is stated to be between 500 and 550 miles. The estimated expense of constructing the railway over the latter distance, at £5,000 per mile, is £2,750,000 currency : of that sum it has been proposed that the Government shall advance £1,000,000, in return for the transportation of mails, troops, and military stores ; the remainder being supplied by the Legislatures of Canada, New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia, and stock taken by an incorporated Company. On the completion of the great line, branch railways would com- municate with it at different points. The most important of these branches would extend to St. John, Miramichi, and from Truro to Pictou in Nova Scotia. In no part of New Brunswick would a rail- 222 NEW BRUNSWICK. way yield so many advantages to that Province as the one lastly re- ferred to ; it would lay the country open through its centre, and give it all the benefits of foreign and domestic intercourse. Along the whole course of the anticipated route, various kinds of timber are abundant, and may be cheaply obtained, even in the most populous villages. At numerous places it may be felled at the sites where it would be required. Along the entire line as above proposed, the country contains numerous rivers and small streams, capable of afford- ing almost unlimited water-power. The value of those streams would be enhanced if the atmospheric system should be adopted, and they give the cheapest means of carrying machinery for manufacturing pur- poses. White and red pine, spruce, hemlock, larch, yellow birch, and other trees, still bring remunerating prices in Great Britain : now, the railway would render accessible the timber of the interior, and not only supply a necessary article in its own construction, but, by being carried forward to the commercial ports, its profits would quickly re- turn a part of the great outlay required for the new mode of transit. In America, there is no branch of industry that receives more benefit from railways than agriculture, to which they transfer a great amount of time and animal strength, and afford a cheap and expeditious con- veyance for the surplus produce of the farmer. It is particularly for- tunate that the proposed line will pass through a country whose climate and soil are highly favourable for agriculture, and whose timber and mineral resources are not surpassed in America. The line throughout is perfectly practicable for the ordinary kind of railway ; but should the atmospheric system bear the test of experience, it will doubtless be better adapted to the climate and country than any other yet dis- covered. A proposition has recently been made to make the Atlantic terminus of the railway at Canseau, in Nova Scotia, instead of Halifax, the former port being nearer Great Britain than the latter.* The terminus at Halifax is very strongly fortified — a circumstance of the highest im- • The idea was originated by Capt. Owen, R.N., at present engaged in making a survey of the Bay of Fundy, and author of a work in defence of the doctrines and principles of the well-remembered Johanna Southcoate. NEW BRUNSWICK. 223 portance in the event of a war \\dth any hostile power. It has also one of the finest harbours in the world, and a dock -yard for naval repairs. Canseau is unfortified, and is also liable to be obstructed by ice at certain periods in the winter. Tt could be taken by a small force of an enemy ; and if the military and naval establishments of Halifax were removed thereto, the Government would sustain a loss nearly equal to the expense of constructing a railway between the Atlantic and the St. Lawrence. But at whatever place the railway may commence, it should be viewed as a national work. By the support and aid of the British Parliament and the Colonial Legislature, the enterprise may be rendered perfectly safe both to the Government and individuals, and thereby call forth the capital required for its completion. Its magnitude and objects are beyond the grasp of private speculation, and should be secured against jobbing by legal enactments. Millions of Her Majesty’s subjects are already interested in promoting the undertaking, and they now look forward to the consummation of a scheme which would cement the British North American Colonies together in one impregnable mass, alike for strength and durability, and for ever secure their loyal attachment to the mother-country. CHAPTER VII. AGRICULTURE. Climate. One of the most striking peculiarities of the climate of New Brunswick, and indeed of all North America, is its low mean annual temperature, and greater extremes of heat and cold, compared with places in corres- ponding latitudes in Europe. The changes of temperature are perhaps not more capricious than they are in Great Britain ; yet they run to a greater extent, and exert an influence over vegetation scarcely known in that country. Edinburgh is nine degrees farther to the north than Quebec, yet its mean annual heat is six degrees higher than that of the latter place. The burning sands of Africa, a northern sea, and a vast surface of cleared and cultivated land, all have a tendency to elevate the medium and check the extremes of temperature in the Old World. Between the Pole and the inhabited parts of North America, there is a wide area of land, whose mountains and valleys are covered with almost perpetual snows, by which the temperature of the whole Northern Continent is greatly lowered. The relative quantities of land and water, the posi- tions of continents and islands, altitude and longitude, modify the dis- tribution of solar heat, and exercise important operations in the climates, of which no correct data can be drawn from their mere distances from the polar point. From the great breadth of the American Continent towards the North Pole, a vast surface is overspread by snow and ice, which almost bids deflance to the summer heat. From that cause alone, the winds which blow from the north and north-west are cool even in the hottest months of the year ; and in winter they immediately NEW BRUNSWICK. 225 lower the mercury of the thermometer, and occasion intense freezing. Their influence is manifest from Baffin’s Bay to the Gulf of Mexico. From having passed over an expanse of water, a north-east wind brings a damp atmosphere over Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, and which is severely chilly rather than intensely cold. Frequently also it brings rain or snow, but never fog. Along the whole Atlantic coast, and especially in Nova Scotia, a south wind is always warm. The heat imparted to the atmosphere by the gulf-stream which sweeps the southern border of the continent, greatly increases the temperature of the coasts. A south-west wind, from passing along the land of the American Continent, is warm and agreeable, except on the shores of the Bay of Fundy, where its vapour is condensed in thick fogs, which prevail during the summer. These fogs lie along the shores, and do not extend to beyond fifteen or twenty miles into the interior, where, by the increased heat of the air, they are quickly dispersed. From having a cold continent on one side and a warm sea on the other, a shifting of the wind in New Brunswick produces a great change of temperature, which has been known to rise or fall sixty degrees in twenty-four hours. The clearing of the land of its dense forests greatly mitigates the severity of winter and the heat of summer. The unbroken wilderness woods retard the melting of the snow in spring, and accord- ingly, as they are cleared away, so will the season for vegetation be prolonged. On the 10th day of June, 1842, there were snow and ice among the mountains of the Upper Tobique, and a few patches remained unmelted at Madawasca; while in the more cleared and cultivated parts of the Province, the meadows and wheat-fields were clothed in green and luxuriant vegetation. On the 11th of the same month, snow fell along the valley of the Aroostook and Upp^r St. John ; at Fredericton and in the older agricultural districts, there was rain ^vithout snow : although this snow fell directly upon the newly-risen grain, it did not retard its growth, and the warm weather that immediately succeeded brought all kinds of plants forward with astonishing rapidity.* On the * These summer snows are called by some of the inhabitants white poultices^ and are supposed to promote the growth of wheat and other grain. Q 226 NEW BRUNSWICK. 12th day of September of the same year, while the Author and his son were exploring the sources of the Restigoiiche River, ice was frozen half an inch in thickness in their canoes during the night ; while at the mouth of the stream no frost had been seen, and rich crops of wheat were in full harvest. The gradual amelioration of the climate produced by exposing the earth to the direct rays of the sun is demonstrated by past experience. In 1783, when the Loyalists landed in New Brunswick, snow was lying on the coasts in June ; and during several following winters the cold was excessive, and the snow fell to far greater depths than it does at the pre- sent time. In 1816, there was a fall of snow on the 7th of June ; and it has been stated that there were frosts in every month of that year.* The later years have been milder, although not free from intense cold in winter, and the vicissitudes common to almost every climate. There is a considerable difference between the climate of the coast and that of the interior. The fonner is characterised by humidity, and the latter by a dry atmosphere. The extreme degree at Below Above Zero. Zero. St. John is from 23° to 88° Coast. Ricbibucto . 22 — 94 Coa.’st. Fredericton . 35 — 95 Interior. The extreme heat in some situations, and during a few hours in the day, will raise the mercury to 100°. From the 5th to the 20th of July, in 1842, along the Tobique River, the average of the thermometer in the middle of the day was from 90° to 95°; and frequently the mercury would rise to 100° in the shade. There is a great change of tempera- ture in the forest during the night, when the heat will often fall to 50° and 45°. ^ ^ The severe cold of the winter commences about the 1st of January, and continues until the 20th of March, in which time the thermometric indications in the interior are as low as 20°, occasionally 30°, and rarely 35°. The cold snapsy as they are called, are relieved by thaws, and days of clear, cloudless skies, in which the inhabitants, wrapt in furs. • Notitia of New Biiinswick. NEW BRUNSWICK. 221 turn out for sleigh-riding, and vehicles of every model and colour are put in motion on the rivers and turnpikes. The atmosphere is often loaded with a frosty vapour, which, from shaving keenly, is called the ar er. us light, fngid powder is spread over the whole face of the country, and clothes the traveller and his team with the most delicate crystals of ice. Then there are the driving storms, piling up the snow into hills, burying the cottage, filling the roads, and covering the earth in robes of white. In calm weather, the buildings and trees crack with the frost, and give out sounds like the explosions of gunpowder. The ice breaks, and sends a long rumbling noise almig the river valleys tvery process of vegetation stands still, and nature seems to rest from her labours. In such days of intense frigidity, the population are by no means inactive, and the men are stimulated to acts of gallantry. Nor IS the business of the country permitted to languish : the axes of the lumberman and backwoodsman are employed among the brittle woods of the forest, and preparations are made to meet the labours of summer ; the farmers are employed in threshing their grain, and cutting and sledding fuel, and poles for the repair of their fences. The snow, of which many Europeans have a great dread, is extremely useful ; upon It the heavy timber of the forests is hauled along by oxen and horses to t le rivers, and the stacks of hay are removed from the marshes and mtervales. A long winter with a deep snow is viewed as being most avourable for the crops of the succeeding season : it is also considered most healthy, and the snow is said to » keep the earth warm.” In the spring following such a winter, there is little frost in the ground, and frequently the grass begins to spring beneath the deepest snow-drifts. Yet, with all its industry, winter is the season of gaiety and amusement: the gentlemen are more than ordinarily attentive to the ladies, and courtships are more frequent than in the sultry months of summer. From the 20th of March to the 20th of April, the thermometer ranges between 35* and 45» in the middle of the day. From the 15th of April there is a great increase in the temperature: notwithstanding, it sometimes freezes before dawn in the morning. June, July, and August have very similar temperatures ; the ther- mometer averaging at mid-day from 70“ to 85“. After the 15th of September, the mornings begin to grow cool ; and from the middle to the NEW BRUNSWICK. 228 25th of November, it again begins to freeze a little in the mornings. Frost is seen some years at Fredericton in seven months of the twelve, and fire is required in sitting-rooms from 210 to 230 days in the year. Frost frequently destroys the tops of the potatoes about the first of October ; but there is a great diversity in the seasons, and in some years the spring opens three weeks earlier, and the autumn is later than in others. In the latter part of April, the rivers and lakes break up, and the snow is melted ; yet the winds are cool, and there is much unpleasant weather, with sleet and rain. The prevailing summer winds are from the west, south-west, and south. In May the weather becomes settled and fine, and the uplands may be planted. The intervales which are overflowed are not planted until June. The climate of New Brunswick differs but little from those of the State of Maine, Lower Canada, the northern shores of Lake Huron, and part of the Michigan territory. In the summer, twilight is seen after nine o’clock in the evening, and day begins to break at two in the morning. The aurora borealis is very brilliant at all seasons. In Nova Scotia the winter usually commences about the last of No- vember, and continues to the 20th of April, which ushers in a cheering spring. From a series of observations made in both Provinces in 1842, we noted that the spring of that year was twenty-one days later on the St. John above Woodstock than it was at Cornwallis and Windsor, in Nova Scotia ; and twelve days later than at Westmoreland and Sussex Vale, in New Brunswick. On the 2nd day of May of that year, in Nova Scotia wheat was four inches high, and gaspereau and smelts had en- tered the river ; on the 12th, swallows had arrived ; on the 23rd, plum, cherry, and apple trees w^re in full blossom, and the boblink had begun to sing, which is the signal for planting maize, or Indian com : on the 14th of June the above trees opened their blossoms, and the songsters had begun their carol between Fredericton and Woodstock. In consequence of being very cold, and having the border of its Bay- of-Fundy coast covered by fog in the early part of summer, the climate of New Brunswick has been unsparingly condemned by some writers and geographers. The whole country has been represented as being involved in fog during the summer months, the remaining part of the NEW BRUNSWICK. Q29 year being intensely cold ; it has also been stated to be unfavourable to European constitutions and unfit for agriculture : but such declara- tions have been made without any sound knowledge of the Province, its climate or resources. From the foregoing account, it might be supposed that the season of vegetation is too limited for the ripening of grain, vegetables and fruit, or that the heat of summer would occasion droughts equally unfavour- able to agriculture ; but the shortness of the season is abundantly com- pensated by the almost miraculous rapidity of vegetation, and the short period necessary for ripening the productions of the country. Only ninety days are required to grow and ripen wheat, rye, barley, and oats, under a medium temperature of 52® : pulse, peas, and a number of garden vegetables, are brought to maturity in a much shorter period. It has also been said that New Brunswick has only two seasons — the hot and the cold — and that the country has neither spring nor autumn. To such as entertain that opinion, the verdure of May, with its early fragrant fiowers, has no charms. Even before the ground is altogether cleared of deep drifts, along the lanes and fences vegetation begins to spring, and the trees put forth their leaves. Before June arrives. Nature, in myriads of forms, begins to display her beauties ; the over- flown streams begin to retreat within their summer bounds, and the whole country is enlivened by the music of the sweet songsters of the forest. The beauty and serenity of the autumn in North America are unrivalled in any other part of the world. After a few sharp night- frosts, as the season advances, the boundless verdure of the forest and of the coppice wood on the borders of the rivulets is transformed into every tint of colour : the leaves of the maple are stained scarlet ; the fluttering poplar is of a sombre brown ; and other trees display rich dresses of red, violet, and yellow, glittering in endless variety : the firs, and other evergreens, always prepared for winter, alone resist the change by which the mountain forests appear to be decorated in holiday attire before the period arrives when their trunks and limbs are to be loaded with ice, and their gay leaves scattered to the piercing winds. Before the frost begins to be severe in November, a delightful inter- val occurs, called the Indian summer. The weather is calm, the air bland and warm, and there is universal serenity. The Indians, who NEW BRUNSWICK. 2S0 liave been wandering over the country during the hot months, improve this season by removing to their winter quarters, and are seen upon the lakes and rivers in canoes, with their poppooses,* dogs, guns, camp bark, and the few culinary utensils required in their simple mode of living. A single canoe generally contains a family and all the personal property of the establishment. At this period the aurora is remarkably brilliant, and snipe, woodcock, and other birds of passage, take their flight to the south. No very satisfactory explanation of the phenomena of this peculiar season has yet been given. It is probable, however, that its chief cause is the rapid decomposition of the fallen leaves, and other vegetable matter, hastened by night-frosts and the heat of the sun at mid-day. The great quantity of gases thus evolved doubtless effect important changes in the atmosphere and its temperature. The electricity of the earth, from being greatly increased, may also promote the expansion of the aurora at the time. Under a general view, the climate of New Brunswick is decidedly healthy, and there is no disease peculiar to the country : still, it is proper to speak of it with some degree of circumspection in reference to the Bay-of-Fundy coast. The humidity of the atmosphere and fogs of this shore induce coughs, influenzas, rheumatism, and pulmonary consumption ; yet, those diseases are not more frequent here than they are at New York, where one-seventh of the deaths are from pulmonary complaints. The intermittent fever, an acknowledged drawback on the settlement of Upper Canada, and the terror of the inhabitants of more southern latitudes, is unknown in the Province — indeed, it cannot exist there, and patients who are affected by it are soon restored to health after landing upon her shores. In the interior, the diseases are few and comparatively simple. Fevers of a typhoid character are most prevalent, but they are gene- rally mild. When the intervales and marshes of the country shall have been drained, and the rising of miasma thus checked, such fevers will in a great degree subside. From the vicissitudes of the weather, and the exposure of many of the inhabitants, especially the lumbermen, in rafting timber upon the waters, inflammations are not unfrequent ; but • Children. NEW BRUNSWICK. 231 the agricultural population are remarkably healthy, and there are few country practitioners of medicine who ever obtain more than a comfort- able living, — a fact to be ascribed to the salubrity of the climate, rather than to their moderate charges. The most fatal diseases are those brought into the Province by passen- ger-ships and vessels from foreign ports, which frequently introduce the smallpox, measles, and other contagious disorders. Vaccination is neg- lected, except in the towns. Diseases of the alimentary organs (or dys- pepsia)^ are common, although not very fatal : they are induced among the lower classes by a poor diet, bad cooking, and frequently oily food, such as fried fat salted pork, which is much eaten by fishermen and lumbermen. Calculous diseases are unknown among persons who have been born in the country. The free use of ardent spirits has destroyed many ; but since the introduction of Temperance Societies, the use of strong liquors is much diminished, and there is an evident improvement in the health and morals of the labouring communities. With a view of the above facts, we agree with Mr. McGregor, who considers the climate as healthy as that of England. Shocks of earthquakes occurred in the Province in the years 1663, 1827, and 1839 : of these notice will be taken in treating of the Geo- logy of the Province. The aurora borealis is sometimes extremely brilliant, and rises to the zenith : on the 7th of November, 1835, at seven p.m., it gave a red light, which afterwards changed to a blue, and then to a green colour; — on the 25th of January, 1836, at eight p.m., the sky was of a deep red colour, which lasted until half-past nine. Meteors are common at all seasons of the year. In Agriculture, under a proper climate, the first ai}d most important objects of consideration are the soil, and the means whereby its fertility can be improved, where naturally meagre, or impoverished, by continued cropping. In the topographical description of the Province, we have made some general remarks on the soils of different districts ; but to enter into a detailed account of each variety would quite exceed the limits of this work — they are too numerous and varied, and at present they have been insufficiently tested to admit of a full description in regard to their virhies. Some of the most important characters of soils 2S2 NEW BRUNSWICK. are, however, discovered by a knowledge of the geology of the tracts upon which they rest — by reference to the sources whence they have been derived, and the agents to which they are exposed. All the different kinds of soil have had their origin in the rocks — the solid framework of the globe. The rocks may be divided into two great classes — one of which has been formed through the agency of water, and the other by the operations of heat. Each of these classes is divided into groups or formations, which differ from each other in chemical composition, and consequently by disintegration afford differ- ent kinds of soil. As the character of the rocks may be ascertained from the soil resting upon or near them, so may the qualities of the soil be discovered by reference to the rocks, each variety of which produces a kind peculiar to itself. Geology is therefore of the first importance to agriculture, and a geological map of every country is a chart of its soils. The surface of New Brunswick presents an assemblage of apparently heterogeneous substances, thrown together in great confusion ; but, upon inspection, it will be found that not only the rocks, but the soils reposing upon them, succeed each other in regular order, and their boundaries may be traced upon a map. First the naked rock will be seen protruding through the soil, or lifting itself into lofty mountain ranges, where its nakedness defies the arm of industry : yet, the opera- tions of heat, frost, moisture, and other meteoric agents, are constantly reducing the flinty mass, and forming a fertile mould, which, if not retained in the shallow basins of the table lands and slopes, is carried downwards to the valleys, to render them more favourable for the pro- duction of plants. ITien there are collections of rounded masses of rocks, called boulders, as unproductive as the solid mountain cliff. To these succeed extensive beds of gravel, sand, and clay, above which there is a covering, varying in thickness, called the soil, differing only from the general deposit beneath it in being reduced to a finer state, and by containing the remains of plants that have flourished upon it. Again, there are extensive deposits of alluvial matter, which are col- lecting daily from the disintegration of the rocks and previously- formed beds. These are the most fertile soils; for the more finely mineral matter is divided, tlic better it is adajited to vegetation — the most recent NEW BRUNSWICK. 233 productions of the earth’s chemical and mechanical agents are best fitted for the support of vegetables. It is very evident that the whole surface of North America, at some period of the earth’s history, has been submerged beneath the ocean, and exposed to violent currents. By the operations of these currents, and ice, the rocks have been transported, in boulders, gravel, and sand. The beds of clay and fine materials have been produced by the falling of sediment in situations where the waters were tranquil. From the operations of powerful currents, the deirital deposits are not always confined to the surfaces of the rocks whence they were derived, but are frequently spread abroad over other rocks, and thus the hard and unyielding strata have been covered by rich diluvial matter. In the districts of the Grand Lake, Sussex Vale, Westmore- land, and other places, the red and claret-coloured soils of the sand- stones have been scattered over rocks that would have yielded a covering far less productive or favourable to vegetation. The direction of the currents that have produced these effects can still be ascertained in many situations : in general, they have proceeded from the north to- wards the south ; but there are many local variations from their general course, and consequently in their results. In North America, the chains of mountains and hills in general run from the south-west towards the north-east, seldom varying farther than north-north-east and east-north-east. Those are also the courses of the stratified fonnations which lean against the mountain ranges. We therefore find belts or tracts of soil running in those directions, and resting on the slopes or in the valleys. The diluvial currents have scattered the soils of each group of rocks southward of their original sites, but not so far that the belts of those soils may not be traced along the country. We have, then, a geographical distribution of soils, a knowledge of which is highly important in the settlement of a new country. In the counties of Charlotte, St. John, and King’s, large tracts of land are occupied by granite, syenite, and trap rocks. Granite also abounds in the wilderness part of Gloucester, and syenite appears in the southern parishes of Westmoreland. The soil on these rocks is peculiar, and very different from the mellow covering of Kent and Sun- 232 NEW BRUNSWICK. are, however, discovered by a knowledge of the geology of the tracts upon which they rest — by reference to the sources whence they have been derived, and the agents to which they are exposed. All the different kinds of soil have had their origin in the rocks — the solid framework of the globe. The rocks may be divided into two great classes — one of which has been formed through the agency of water, and the other by the operations of heat. Each of these classes is divided into groups or formations, which differ from each other in chemical composition, and consequently by disintegration afford differ- ent kinds of soil. As the character of the rocks may be ascertained from the soil resting upon or near them, so may the qualities of the soil be discovered by reference to the rocks, each variety of which produces a kind peculiar to itself. Geology is therefore of the first importance to agriculture, and a geological map of every country is a chart of its soils. The surface of New Brunswick presents an assemblage of apparently heterogeneous substances, thrown together in great confusion ; but, upon inspection, it will be found that not only the rocks, but the soils reposing upon them, succeed each other in regular order, and their boundaries may be traced upon a map. First the naked rock will be seen protruding through the soil, or lifting itself into lofty mountain ranges, where its nakedness defies the arm of industry : yet, the opera- tions of heat, frost, moisture, and other meteoric agents, are constantly reducing the flinty mass, and forming a fertile mould, which, if not retained in the shallow basins of the table lands and slopes, is carried downw'ards to the valleys, to render them more favourable for the pro- duction of plants. ITien there are collections of rounded masses of rocks, called boulders, as unproductive as the solid mountain cliff. To these succeed extensive beds of gravel, sand, and clay, above which there is a covering, varying in thickness, called the soil, differing only from the general deposit beneath it in being reduced to a finer state, and by containing the remains of plants that have flourished upon it. Again, there are extensive deposits of alluvial matter, which are col- lecting daily from the disintegration of the rocks and previously- formed beds. These are the most fertile soils; for the more finely mineral matter is divided, the better it is adajUcd to vegetation — the most recent NEW BRUNSWICK. 233 productions of the earth’s chemical and mechanical agents are best fitted for the support of vegetables. It is very evident that the whole surface of North America, at some period of the earth’s history, has been submerged beneath the ocean, and exposed to violent currents. By the operations of these currents, and ice, the rocks have been transported, in boulders, gravel, and sand. The beds of clay and fine materials have been produced by the falling of sediment in situations where the waters were tranquil. From the operations of powerful currents, the detrital deposits are not always confined to the surfaces of the rocks whence they were derived, but are frequently spread abroad over other rocks, and thus the hard and unyielding strata have been covered by rich diluvial matter. In the districts of the Grand Lake, .Sussex Vale, Westmore- land, and other places, the red and claret-coloured soils of the sand- stones have been scattered over rocks that would have yielded a covering far less productive or favourable to vegetation. The direction of the currents that have produced these effects can still be ascertained in many situations : in general, they have proceeded from the north to- wards the south ; but there are many local variations from their general course, and consequently in their results. In North America, the chains of mountains and hills in general run from the south-west towards the north-east, seldom varying farther than north-north-east and east-north-east. Those are also the courses of the stratified formations which lean against the mountain ranges. We therefore find belts or tracts of soil running in those directions, and resting on the slopes or in the valleys. The diluvial currents have scattered the soils of each group of rocks southward of their original sites, but not so far that the belts of those soils may not be traced along the country. We have, then, a geographical distribution of soils, a knowledge of which is highly important in the settlement of a new country. In the counties of Charlotte, St. John, and King’s, large tracts of land are occupied by granite, syenite, and trap rocks. Granite also abounds in the wilderness part of Gloucester, and syenite appears in the southern parishes of Westmoreland. The soil on these rocks is peculiar, and very different from the mellow covering of Kent and Sun- 234 NEW BllUNSWlCK. bury, trom the disintegration of granite, silex, clay, lime, magnesia, and potash result ; and the syenite yields almost the same constituents. The soil derived from trap rock contains much potash, and almost always produces hard wood, such as beech, birch, maple, oak, ash, and butternut. The granite and syenite are also favourable to the growth of those trees ; but, frequently, where there is a sufficient depth of earth and tlie land is sandy, white and red pine grow to great size. Upon those rocks the soil is frequently scanty, and there are large plats of hard, stony ground by no means productive ; yet, wherever the soil is finely pulverised and abundant, wheat, oats, and potatoes grow well, and Indian corn is remarkably successful. Along the coast of the Bay of Fundy, grauwacke, hard, argillaceous, and talcose slates, with lime- stones, are predominant. These rocks are chiefly covered by groves of cedar, spruce, fir, hackmatack, and small pines, with laurel bushes and cranberry bogs, except where there are deep beds of gravel or sand : their surface is unfit for cultivation, and the best of the soil is soon impoverished, unless freely manured and well tilled. The high and low intervales on the streams are very fertile. ** The coal-field of New Brunswick occupies an area of no less than 10,000 square miles. It embraces the chief part of Westmoreland, the whole of Kent, three-quarters of Northumberland, the northern part of Gloucester, a part of King’s, nearly the whole of Queen’s and Sunbury, and more than one-half of York — counties along its southern border. Near Studholm’s Midstream, at Butternut Ridge, Sussex Vale, Hills- borough, and Sackville, there are thick deposits of limestone and gypsum. The prevailing deposits are conglomerates, red marly sand- stones, and shales. The soil derived from those rocks is extremely fertile, and presents much variety, even on a single tract. The clays are of every degree of tenacity, from the plastic mortar to the light and friable mould that crumbles before the plough. Then there is the red marly loam, often deep, and resting on a subsoil of clay, with a good proportion of humus. These soils resist the drought of summer, and produce abundant crops of wheat, oats, rye, barley, buckwheat’ flax, potatoes, turnips, and all kinds of culinary vegetables ; but they are less congenial to Indian corn than the more light and sandy earths. In the valleys the soil is still more mellow, being of a daik brown \ NEW BRUNSWICK. 235 colour, and abounding in humus : with these there are patches of light, fine, red and yellow sand, beds of coarse sand and gravel, and occa- sionally bogs of peat, and swamps covered by alders, and a stunted growth of other trees, with laurel, uva ursi, and cranberry vines. The alluviums forming the best intervales are a dark brown mould, from one to twenty feet in thickness, which from being annually irrigated, like the banks of the Nile, are always fertile. Some of these intervales have resulted from the labours of the industrious beavers, which, until they were destroyed, constructed dams across the rivulets to supply water, in which they were protected from their enemies. They are now called beaver meadows. It has been already observed, that all the lands upon the coal-field are remarkably low and level, especially so on the coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence ; the character of the surface at different places has also been noticed : it may, however, be remarked that the soil on this great tract differs from that of the calcareous and gypsiferous district above described. On the coal-field it partakes of the characters of the rocks beneath, such as the conglomerates, sandstones and shales, and it is evidently less fertile than in those situations where the limestones and gypsums are present. The silicious soils are most abundant in the coal region : there are, nevertheless, beds of red and blue clay, forming a subsoil ; when the latter is uncovered by any other kind of earth, it is quite sterile. The red soil from the red sandstones, and the blue soil from the grits of that colour, are frequently very favourable for culti- vation. With these argillaceous beds there are tracts of red sandy loam, red and w^hite sand, collections of gravel and boulders. The blue clay and white sand predominate in the tracts called Barrens, Car- riboo, and Blueberry Plains, which, in their present state, are worthless for tillage. With all these drawbacks, the whole area of the coal dis- trict, under a general view, offers a wide field of good tillage land, and hi any tracts are capable of being rendered remarkably fertile. The crops raised upon these lands, so far as they have been cleared and cultivated, do not differ materially from those of the southern division of the Province ; yet the scanty proportion of lime in the soil renders it less favourable for the production of wheat. Extending from the American frontier across the River St. John, NEW BRUNSWICK. 23G between Woodstock and Madawasca, in a north-east direction, to the Restigouche and Bay Chaleurs, there are extensive groups of calcareous, argillaceous, and silicious rocks. They embrace thick strata of Silurian limestones, from which the soil has evidently derived a due quantity of calcareous matter, to render it active, and fit it for the cultivation of wheat and other grain. The superiority of this kind of soil has been proved at Woodstock, Wakefield, Belle Dune, and on the banks of the Restigouche, where it bears heavy crops of wheat at its first tillage, and is afterwards readily renovated by manure. The best soils in the Province are those containing certain proportions of silex, lime, alu- mina, and humus. It is exceedingly difficult to point out the exact proportions of those substances which should be present, under all cir- cumstances, for general productiveness. Those proportions should be regulated by climate, temperature, and more especially by the peculiar nature of the plants the farmer is desirous to grow. The facilities by which some earths absorb water and retain moisture are much greater than others ; and as water performs an important office in vegetation, the soils that are placed upon declivities, and are therefore speedily drained, require a larger quantity of retentive clay than such as are placed in lower situations. Sand permits the water to escape by ab- sor})tion, and more readily by evaporation, than a clayey loam ; and if there be anything peculiar in the soils of New Brunswick generally, it is the almost universal existence of an argillaceous subsoil, which is of the first importance in dry seasons. All the upland soils have been derived from the disintegration of the rocks beneath. Even the alluviums, so often mentioned, can be traced to their birth-places, whence they have been transported by the freshets of spring and autumn ; and the terraced borders of the rivers owe their origin to currents of water. The facilities for obtaining manure are by no means limited in New Brunswick. The shores abound with marine plants, and at many places oyster-shells may be calcined and applied to tlie soil with great advantage. This kind of lime is employed at Shediac, but seldom at other places. Peat is abundant, and is occasionally used as a manure, under the name of black mud, or black muck ; but, in its simple and unfermented state, or when carted from the bog directly upon the land. NEW BRUNSWICK. 2S7 in most cases it is worthless. It is only when this substance has been drained of its acidulated water, mixed with other manure, or thrown into composts, that it becomes a stimulus to the soil. Limestone is widely disseminated in the Province, and gypsum may be cheaply ob- tained in a number of the districts ; yet little of the former is used in agriculture, and the virtues of the latter remain almost untried. Excel- lent marls have also been discovered along the coasts. A few years ago, marsh mud or sea alluvium was applied to grass lands and sandy soils in Nova Scotia, and proved to be very beneficial. The practice has extended, and found its way into New Brunswick, and fine crops of wheat are raised in both Provinces by mixing it freely with the upland sands. From the great numbers of sea-birds that fre- quent the islands along the coasts, it was supposed, after its discovery in other countries, that guano could be procured in the Province ; but the climate, heavy rains, frosts and snows, prevent the accumulation of that kind of manure in North America. Great quantities of ashes remain upon new lands after the timber has been felled and burned. Although the first crops of grain are good upon such lands, it is not certain that the ashes are of any advantage, and they are injurious to the quality of potatoes. It is remarkable that those ashes are not manufactured into potash in New Brunswick, in the manner they are employed in Canada. On many kinds of soil, the burning of timber has a beneficial ejffect, which may be ascnbed to the agency of heat, and the potash supplied from the ashes. I have observed, that granitic soils are not improved by burning, and some of them are injured by powerful fires. Perhaps this may arise from the quantity of alkali being increased beyond what is necessary for the support of vegetation. The burning, notwithstand- ing, destroys the seeds of noxious plants, and leaves the earth in a state whereby all its energies are devoted to the planted crop. The finest potatoes are raised on new land whose heavy timber has been re- moved, as it sometimes is, for fuel, and where only the decayed leaves and small branches are consumed upon the ground. The period is rapidly advancing when agriculture must form the essential pursuit of the chief part of the population of New Brunswick. The demand for timber has heretofore led thousands of the most active 2SS NEW BRUNSWICK. inhabitants into the forests, and saw-mills for the manufacture of wood for exportation have been erected by them upon almost every stream and rivulet. The facilities of procuring timber, the abundance of fish on the coasts and in the rivers, and plenty of game, directed the atten- tion of the early inhabitants aw'ay from the tillage of the soil, and agri- culture has been considered an inferior occupation. It is natural enough in all new countries, that the objects of commerce most readily obtained without the aid of science or skill, and such as meet with a ready demand, should first employ the inhabitants. The system of industry is only changed by necessity ; and no sooner will the pineries of New Brunswick disappear, or the lumbermen be driven so far from the rivers that their employment will cease to be profitable, or an unfavourable change take place in the timber market, than he will leave his occupation and engage in another. It has been supposed by many, that by drawing the population away from husbandry, lumbering pursuits have been disadvantageous to the country. To certain limits, such an opinion may be in some degree cor- rect ; but it should be considered, that the lumbermen have discovered and explored new districts ; they have opened the winter roads, cleared the rivers of obstructions, and been the pioneers of many flourishing settlements. From the timber trade, a number of small towns have sprung up, commerce has received its chief support, and the Province derived a large revenue. Any attempt to check the enterprise of the people, or to turn it from one pursuit to another, would be fruitless ; they will direct their labours into channels that seem to them most inviting and profitable. Every country has its epochs of industry : the present, in New Brunswick, is the timber period, which will be follow^ed by the agricultural, fishing, and, finally, the manufacturing eras. The scientific Sir Howard Douglas was among the first to discover that New Brunswick was capable of a high degree of agricultural improvement, and of affording a substantial and comfortable subsist- ence to a large farming population. In February 1825, that gentleman, who was then Governor of the Province, assembled the Members of the Legislature and other individuals at Fredericton, and addressed them in an eloquent speech, in which he strongly urged the necessity NEW BRUNSWICK. 239 of extending agriculture and improving the excellent waste lands. Agricultural and Emigrant Societies were immediately formed, a Sav- ings Bank was established, and the most improved breeds of animals were ordered from Great Britain. Ploughs and other instruments of husbandry were also brought into the Province for models ; and emu- lation was excited in ploughing-matches, exhibitions of stock, and the distribution of premiums. The impulse thus given to husbandry has had a lasting effect, and resulted in many improvements. Agricultural Societies are still in operation in each of the counties,* and there are a number of gentlemen who, by their influence and example, are endeavouring to amend the system of tillage, and to improve the dif- ferent breeds of domestic animals. A great number of farmers are still firmly attached to the old system of their forefathers, and the Acadian French are not readily moved to adopt modem improvements. Nothing short of the plainest facts will turn such from their accustomed habits. When the crops and stock of any individual are increased by the introduction of a new system, the effect on the surrounding country soon becomes manifest : whatever is gained by observation is immediately acted upon, while the demon- strations of science are disregarded. It is chiefly on this account that experimental farms would be advantageous to the Colony. •His Excellency Sir William Colebrookc, the present Governor of the Province, has made some exertion to promote the settlement of the poor on wild lands, and to infuse a spirit of industry into the humbler classes ; and his labours, although performed under many disadvan- tages, have not been altogether unsuccessful. But New Brunswick still requires a vast addition of industrious emigrants to its population ; and before the fertile lands can be very extensively and properly culti- vated, there must be an increase of labour and science. Annual grants, from £25 to £100, have been made by the Legislature to Agricultural Societies in different counties ; it being generally required that each • The reports from eight different counties in 1842 show extensive improve- ments m the raising of wheat, some of which weighed 70 lbs. per bushel ; and a Committee^ of the House of Assembly declared, that the “ old cry, ” that New Brunswick is not a wheat-growing country, was practically contradicted every year by those farmers who pay due attention to the mode of cultivation. 2iO NEW BRUNSWICK. Society shall raise a sum by subscription equal to their grant. Yet the timber interest, as it is called, sometimes operates against the appro- priation of the public money to agricultural purposes, and there is a lack of energy among a part of the farming population. The soil of the Province is well adapted for grass. In many of the low wilderness districts wild hay is plentifully dispersed, and a variety called “ blue joint” makes excellent fodder for young cattle. The seeds dropped from loads of hay carried into the forests by lumbering parties spring up, and the track of the forest-men may be traced in the wood by lines of clover. The principal upland grasses are red and white clover, timothy, lucerne, and a few indigenous varieties. The intervales and meadows that have never been under the plough, and are reserved to supply hay, produce many kinds of wild grass, which on the drier grounds are mixed with the clovers. The different kinds of grain cultivated for bread are wheat, summer rye, winter rye, oats, Indian corn, barley, and buckwheat. The soil in general is w’ell adapted for wheat : even along the Bay-of-Fundy coast its growth is strong ; but from the moisture of the atmosphere it is liable to rust, which pre- vents it from ripening. It is generally sown broadcast, on land ploughed in the autumn, or early in the spring ; the produce is from fifteen to thirty bushels per acre. An improvement has been made in Nova Scotia of late in the culture of wheat : the land (either diked marsh or upland) is ploughed in the autumn ; in the month of August, when the surface has become starved to the depth of three or four inches, and is in a peculiar dry and crumbly state, it is sowed : by this method the grain yields a better crop, and ripens before the season of rust has approached. The same method might be pursued in New Brunswick generally with success. The application of marsh mud to dry sandy soils is also very favourable to the growth of wheat. Winter wheat is seldom raised, and but few sound experiments have been made in the cultivation of its different varieties. Summer rye is sown in the spring upon the poorer kinds of land, and yields from fifteen to twenty bushels per acre. Winter rye, which is much superior for bread, is seldom cultivated. Upon good old land, or burnt ground, it will return forty bushels per acre. It should be sown about the first of September. Oats thrive well upon almost every soil, and as the crop is generally new BRUNSWICK. 241 sure they are extensively cultivated, and give from twenty to fortv “‘"“'■‘“"<'“8 i> return, , ,,,y p„|iabl. manure: after the ground has been well prepared, furrows should be run across ,t three feet apart; a shovelful of stable manure that has been carefully kept over the preceding season, or the same quantity of rnanure from the hog-sty. should be put beneath each hill, into which To s? > ”r nT r ’ ‘*^"^** of Pumnk ’ ' f™m weeds. Pumpkms are frequenUy planted with the com. which yields from thirty to sixty bushels per acre. Flax and hemp grow well, and are abundantly stocked with the fib ous coating. It is remarkable that they are not more extensively ^luvated upon the dry intervales, which are admirably fitted for their In the first settlement of the country, flax was raised by almos*t every farmer, and linens formed an important part of domestic manu- acture; but since the introduction of cotton cloth, which is now so Cheaply .manufactured in Great Britain, the country females have laid aside their spinning-wheels, and the good, durable linen tablecloths of their grandmothers are supplanted by the varnished cotton of their Amencan neighbours. Buckwheat is sown about the last of June, and the crop is sometimes injured by early frosts. Barley thrives well, yet it is seldom sown. Almost all the culinary roots raised in Europe flourish in xVew Brunswick Different kinds of turnips, beets, carrots, parsneps, man- ge -wurtzel and other roots, are chiefly raised in gardens, and are not >et planted in fields. Of all the nutritious roots, potatoes are of the • The old American rule is, to drop in each hill of corn— One for the cut-worm, One for the crow, One for the grub, And three for to grow. NEW BRUNSWICK. greatest importance, as they supply an important article of food to a^ll classes, and are a most useful auxiliary in the maintenance of catt e through the long winters. They are raised universally both upon old land and new, and always occupy plats in the gardens of the wealthy ; they cover the fields of the farmer, and are the first produce of the backwoodsman, who brings them forth from amidst the stumps of his clearing, and treasures them up as his safety-fund m the day of want. Potatoes yield a most certain and valuable crop, and may be considere the most staple article of food, and the best substitute for bread m the Province. The mode of cultivation is by planting cuttings in dnlls from one to two feet apart. In old ground, the land is marked by shallow furrows from eighteen inches to two feet asunder, and the seed being dropped along each furrow, is afterwards ploughed in, or covered by the hoe. Subsequently, the plough is run between the furrows, and the plants are hoed twice. On new or burnt land, the planter drops the seed upon the surface, and then covers it with earth; the plant is seldom hoed in such ground. At the time of dragging, the potatoes are seen protruding from the earth, and are found even beneath the roots of the trees, which appear to be no impediment to their growth. The potatoes raised on newly-cleared land are of superior dryness and flavour. The produce on old lands is from 150 to 400 bushds per acre ; and on new ground, where a part of the surface is occupied by stumps, from 100 to 250 bushels per acre. Eight hundred bushels of potatoes may be raised on an acre of land. The inhabitants of New Brunswick suppose that the potatoes of their Province are superior to those of Nova Scotia ; but there is little ground for their partiality :* Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, and Prince Edward’s Island are equally favourable to those roots. The crop of the last year (1845) was affected by the same disease that spread itself over the whole American Continent and the chief part of Europe. By it nearly three- quarters of the whole crop were destroyed. The most obvious cause of • The names of potatoes are as various as their kinds. The old midkiff and Spaniard varieties have been succeeded by blacknoses and bluenoses : these in their turn have been compelled to make room for the Boston blues, calicoes, long teds and kidneys, until the London ladies bore away the palm. \ NEW BRUNSWICK. 243 Ae decay was the excess of „.oisture in almost every kind of the vege- Poito 7^“' be the most effectual remedy. Potatoes planted on dry and meagre soil in general escaped the malady, so 1, r r ' of falls mst\L^T ^ calamity, and one that falls most heavily upon the poor, who have been thus deprived of a substantial article of diet. ^ for^" 7 ? except o the table, will yield as well as it does in England. Small q;antiti are grown in gardens; but the abundance of potatoes has retarded the cultivation of that valuable root, which, from its great yield, would be highly advantageous in the fattening of cattle and sheep, and for the jport of stock during the winter. The Aberdeen, white stone, and the European varieties of the turnip, also thrive well. Neither mangel-wurtzel, beets, nor carrots have been introduced into field- culture; yet those roots, onions, parsneps, cabbages, cauliflower, cu- cumbers,* melons, squashes, and all the common culinary vegetables of the Old Country, are cultivated with success-and are good, provided attention is paid to them. The same remarks will apply to peas and beans in their several varieties. Horticulture has been much neglected. In Nova Scotia, apples of he best kinds and finest flavour are grown in great quantities, and the ordinary pnee of the best cider is only eight shillings per barrel. Quinces, pears, peaches, cherries, apricots, and other fruits, including he Isabella grape, are also produced in the open air.f An idea has prevailed that even the interior climate of New Brunswick is less favourable for fruits than that of Nova Scotia; but. from what I have observed, I believe that fruit-trees will flourish and bear as well in one Province as the other. Plums, currants, goos eberries, strawberries, and • In 1840, the Author observed half an acre of cucumbers in a new clearimr on the right bank of the Washadamoak River. They were planted in hill! among the stumps of trees, over which the vines had ascended, as well as over- spread the TOd The cucumbers were picked when they were small, and sold for pickles in the market of St. John. t These fruits, with a number of others indigenous between the Tropic.-! are raised to great perfection by the Hon. C. Prescott, of Cornwallis, Novil Scotia, who IS the father of horticulture in the western part of that Province. NKW BRUNSWICK. !2U other small fruits, are cultivated in New Brunswick ; and at Frederic- ton, horticulture has received some attention of late. Floriculture has also been cherished at the above place, and the gardens of Colonel Shore, L. A# Wilmot, Fsq., and Mr. Watt, have proved the capabilities of the country and climate in this delightful branch of husbandry. Within a few years, the windows of the cottages throughout the Province have become decorated with beautiful native and exotic plants, and a better taste begins to prevail in the style of the farmers’ gardens. The wild fruits of the Province contribute, in no inconsiderable de- gree, to the comfort of the new settler, who, with the aid of maple sugar, renders them very palatable. Of these fruits the wild straw- berries, which abound in June, are the most delicious. Cranberries, gooseberries, raspberries, blackberries, great whortleberries {faccinium corymhoswm), blue whortleberries {Vaccinium frondosum), wdld cherries, plums {Prunus Americana), grapes {Vitis borealis), and other indigen- ous fruits, are all gathered at different seasons of the year. With these are Labrador tea {Sedum laiifolium) and chocolate root, with other native plants, that yield by decoction wholesome and pleasant beverages. Butternuts and hazelnuts are gathered at many places ; and beechnuts are often so plentiful, that svnne maintain themselves upon them in the forests during the winter months ; but the pork fattened on these nuts is soft and oily. The fruits natural to the country, with the fish in the streams, and partridges and other game in the woods, all aid the back- woodsman, to whom a supply of provisions is of the first importance, during the growing of his first crop. Having given a sketch of the productions of the older cultivated grounds, we may, before closing this chapter, notice the clearing of new lands, and the first crops produced from the virgin soil. The system of clearing in New Brunswick differs a little from that pursued in Canada. A tract of ground having been selectedj all the under-brush is first cut away — this is most easily done when the ground is frozen — and it is de- sirable also to remove such small trees as are suitable for making the fences. The large trees are then felled and “junked up” (cut into logs) from ten to fifteen feet in length, the limbs are lopped off, and the closer they lie to the ground, the better will they afterwards burn. The trees NEW UllUNSWlCK. Slo are sometimes felled in ^vindrows (long heaps of fallen timber)-a plan which operates against the equal burning of the surface and the distri- bution of the ashes. The time for chopping varies. It is generally admitted that the under-brush should be cut in the beginning of winter, and the large trees m the ensuing spring, before the sap has ascended to the branches. In August or September the chopping is fired, and much labour IS saved by obtaining yoorf 6„rn. Most frequently the fire consumes all the brushwood and limbs, and nothing remains but the charred logs and extinguished brands. In the autumn, these are rolled ogether with handspikes, or drawn by oxen, into large piles, where they are burned. This work is most frequently performed by a number of settlers, who unite and assist each other in the Laborious task. Almost every man collects his neighbours, if he have any, and makes a frolic. After the labour of the day is ended, and the company have partaken of the refreshments prepared by the females, it is not uncommon to hear the fiddle strike up, and the party engage in the merry jig and reel. This system of mutual assistance is considered beneficial ; it removes little jealousies in society, and cheers the heart of the settler amidst his struggles to redeem the soil ; yet I have observed, that men who plod on alone and single-handed are as suc- cessful as those who adopt the other course. After the piling the heaps of wood are fired, generally in the evening, when the whole ’sur- face IS in a blaze, and the anxious settler remains up all night to roll the ignited logs together. In Canada, the ashes are carefully collected while they are dry and safely stored in water-tight log-sheds until winter, when they are carried to the potash manufactory and sold. There are no asl^eries in New Brunswick, and the alkali is allowed to mix with the soil. Choppings are sometimes made in the winter, and burned in the spring : in such instances, the labour of ‘‘clearing off” is greater, but a crop IS obtained in the same season. After all the timber has been consumed, or drawn off to make the fences, the surface of the earth is broken by a crotch-harrow, drawn by horses or mules. The harrow is in the shape of the letter V, with a row of teeth in each side. The wheat, or other grain, is then sown broadcast. About two bushels af JSEW BRUNSWICK. wheat are required for an acre. Some sow the grain upon the unbroken surface. The harrow is again applied, and hacks are employed to cover the grain around the stumps. The price of clearing an acre of land ready for the harrow is from £2 10s. to £4, currency, according to the quality and growth of the timber upon it. The wheat sown as above almost universally yields a good crop. At the time of harvest it is stacked, unless the proprietor has erected a bam for its reception. Two crops of wheat are seldom taken from the same piece of ground in two successive seasons, although potatoes are sometimes planted on the same field two and three years following. With the wheat, timothy and clover seed are sown ; the first crop is therefore succeeded by grass for hay, the value of which is much in- creased by the demands of the lumber parties, who frequently pay as liigh as £5 per ton for the fodder of their oxen. The ordinary price of wheat is 7s. 6d. per bushel. Besides potatoes, these new lands produce turnips, cabbages, and all kinds of vegetables, and also the leguminous plants, without the aid of mapure. Over and above paying the expense of clearing the land, the cost of seed, the labour of sowing and harvesting, the first crop yields a profit. Many settlers and squatters, therefore, prefer clearing a new piece every year, to the cultivation of tracts from which the timber has been already removed. In consequence of this propensity to level the forest, large fields are seen in every quarter overrun by raspberry bushes, sprouts, and a young growth of trees, the land having been abandoned as soon as the first crop was secured. These results are also favoured by the cheapness and abundance of land, and, all taken together, have produced a very remarkable class of persons called squatters. These men will remove their families into the deep recesses of the forest, w^here, to use their own phrase, they “ knock up a shanty,’* and commence chopping. They are all expert hunters, and at fishing quite au fait. Their stock consists of a cow and a pig. The former, during the summer, finds her own living, and wears a large bell upon her neck, to inform the dairymaid of whereabouts in the wilderness she is feeding. When the little stock of pro visions is nearly exhausted, deer, partridges, or salmon and trout, are quickly supplied. Maple sugar is exchanged NEW BRUNSWICK. 247 for flour, which is sometimes drawn over the snow on toboggans* to great distances. The squatter is also a trapper, and, during the winter, collects a quantity of fur. The crop raised by one of these men and family in a season will more than supply them with food for a year ; and their clothing is purchased with the proceeds of the furs, maple sugar, brooms, axe-handles, and other articles of their own manufac- ture. If the owner of the land appear to meddle with his affairs, the squatter looks upon him with cool indifference, or leaves his residence to repeat the same operation in another quarter. The Government seldom interferes with these men when they fix their abodes on Crown lands ; and if their clearings are taken up by persons who obtain grants, an allowance is made to them for improvements. Their num- ber in the Province is about 1600 , exclusive of persons wdio have made partial payments for their lands. Viewed under any light, the squatter is a useful man : he is the true pioneer of the forest — the advanced guard of the agricultural army ; and often, from his knowledge of the country, skill, and kindness, he proves to be the benefactor of the disheartened immigrant. We stop not here to inquire into the lawfulness of his pursuits, knowing that they have resulted from the humanity of the Government, and that they will be given up to steady industry when the country shall be widely in- habited. In seven or eight years, according to the nature of the timber, the stumps are sufficiently rotten to be removed, when they are collected and burnt upon the ground. The surface of the land is frequently very uneven, from the presence of cradle hills,f which should be ploughed lengthwise rather than across. The soil in the hollows is very rich, and care should be taken in the ploughing to keep it on the surface as much as possible. By felling a certain number of acres every year, the settler obtains a crop from the burnt groimd, while the lands previously cleared afford pasture and hay until the stumps are decayed, when the plough may be put in operation. It is remarkable that the trees of the forest, whenever they are destroyed by fire, or cleared away by the agricul- * Hand sleds, with broad flat runners, which do not sink into the snow, t These are small eminences produced by the roots of the trees and frost. NEW BRUNSWICK. U8 turist, and the land afterwards neglected, of whatever kinds they are, do not spring up again ; but a new growth of other trees succeeds them. The land, cleared of its lofty pines and spruces, is soon covered by the w'hite poplar, maple, hackmatack, fir, wild cherry, cedar, and blue whortleberries. Sugar maple, beech, and birch, are frequently succeeded by red pine, red and white spruce, sumach, raspberry, and gooseberry bushes. Hemlock land is soon overspread by cedar or alder. The original kind of trees do not appear in the second growth ; but after the second growth is removed, they again occupy the ground. This rotation of crops seems to be a law of nature, from which the farmer may derive a valuable hint. The surface of the earth in its natural state is covered by decayed leaves and seeds ; but so long as the earth is shaded by the luxuriant foliage of the forest, those seeds cannot vegetate. The fire destroys the seeds that lie on the surface, or such as have fallen from the pre-existing trees ; and therefore, after the grove is removed, it might be expected that the soil would be incapable of bringing forth any vegetables, except such as were sown upon it by the farmer. But the seeds of plants are deeply buried in the soils of North America : these cannot grow until heat and light are let down upon the earth. No sooner, therefore, is the forest taken away and its reproductive powers destroyed by fire, than the deeply-buried seeds begin to germinate and to cover the earth with a new and different crop. To many it has been matter of surprise, that when a clearing is made in the most remote parts of the wilder- ness, and where nothing is to be seen but lofty trees, the wild berries spring up, and not unfrequently the Canada thistle, sorrel, and other noxious weeds. As bears, foxes, and other animals feed upon wild berries, it is not surprising that their seeds should be widely dissemi- nated. The seeds of the thistle have wings, and are driven along by the winds ; and thus the distribution of seeds may be accounted for. Hawks, and other birds, which do not destroy the germs of seeds by digestion, also carry them from one place to another. The feathered tribes have been chiefly instrumental in establishing vegetation upon the newly- formed coral reefs of the Pacific Ocean, and in transplanting many useful seeds and berries over the great North American Continent. Several writers on Canada have laid much stress on the discovery of NEW BRUNSWICK. the quality of the soil by the kind of timber growing upon it. It is evident that certain trees are, in some degree, confined to particular districts; but this not only depends upon the nature of the soil, but also upon Us dryness or moisture. It should also be remembered, that a growth of one kind of wood, when it has been cut down, or destroyed by fire, ,s generally succeeded by another of a different kind; and therefore, in judging of the quality of theTsoil by the timber standing upon It, It IS necessary to consider whether the trees are of the primary or second crop. In general, the hard woods, which drop their leaves in autumn, such as the sugar maple, beech, birch, butternut, &c., grow upon dry or we 1-drained land, and the evergreens upon the more moist grounds Itisaeommon opinion, that the hard woods occupy the best land; but I have observed that beech frequently covers beds of dry and meagre gravel. Oak is found on a dry, rich loam, and also in soil of a light sandy description. The intervales afford the favourite sites of the elm ^d ash. Of the soft woods, pine not only flourishes on a rich bottom, but also in yellow sand, and frequently among boulders of granite. racts bearing larch, or hackmatack and hemlock, have been con- demned, until experience has proved them fertile : the former usually grows on flat, sandy soil, underlaid by clay and marl, and which is often capable of being made very fertile. A mixture of clay and yellow birch is an indication of strong land and such as is favourable for grass. Butternut and basswood prefer calcareous soils, and such as are esteemed for the cultivation of wheat. Although It has been denied by some that any indication can be de- rived from the quality of the timber, yet it is certain that by careful observation, much information of the nature of the soil may be obtained by this kind of inquiry ; but persons who have Uttle experience in such matters, and who desire to purchase, will do well to examine the soil and subsoil by opening them at a number of places, and not trust too much to the appearance of the timber. To the immigrant, the vast forest presents at first a gloomy spec- tacle. When he enters upon his ground, he finds not a spot where food ean be raised, and the entire surface of the earth is covered bv innumerable trees, that have stood for ages, and still seem to bid 250 NEW BRUNSWICK. defiance even to armies of axemen. The axe must be applied to every tree ; for every attempt to root them out, except by cutting, and their subsequent decay, has proved abortive. The trunk is cut from two to three feet above the ground — the tree staggers, and falls with a loud crash. The axeman watches the direction taken by the falling wood, calling to his companions, if he have any, to ** stand by.” Here “ man appears to contend against the trees of the forest as though they were his most obnoxious enemies ; for he spares neither the young sapling in its greenness, nor the ancient trunk in its lofty pride — he wages war against the forest with fire and steel.” To the visitor who has been accustomed to view clean parks and groups of ornamental trees, the cleared part of the country appears naked, as few trees are spared on account of their beauty. The reason of this is, that such as grow in forests are too tall and slender for orna- mental purposes, and when allowed to stand away from the shelter afforded by the grove, they are blown down, or they are destroyed by the heat of the fire at the time of burning. Yet, in very many in- stances, clumps of trees might have been permitted to stand, on account of the value of their timber, shelter, or as being ornamental. From the great extent of water communication in the Province, much of the common timber on the wild lands is valuable, as it may be readily transported and sold for fuel. The St. John and other rivers are navigated by numbers of wood-boats, which supply the towns with great quantities of cheap wood. The bark of the hemlock tree, exten- sively employed in tanning, is also an object of some importance. The erection of a saw and grist mill in a new settlement is always looked forward to with much anxiety, and the inhabitants firequently bestow their labour gratuitously for the construction of the necessary dams. The best pine and spruce are made into shingles, or sawed into boards to cover their houses. It is interesting to observe the rising of a settlement, and the ad- vancement of cultivation in the wilderness. At first, perhaps, a soli- tary settler builds his shanty, amidst the stumps, and frequently by the side of a rivulet. The walls of his dwelling are large logs piled upon each other, and dovetailed at the comers, with a square hole cut through for a door, and another for a window ; the cracks are stopped backwoodman’s shanty NEW BRUNSWICK. with moss. This fabric is covered with the bark of the fir, secured by long poles and withs. Upon the corner of the house hangs a scythe ; and axes, iron wedges, &e. are seen sticking in the logs. The grind- stone frame is secured to a stump. A hovel is also built for the cow and a sty for the pig. A few dunghill fowls and geese are also pro- vided with shelter. The dwelhng-house is sometimes built in better style than has been described. The logs are hewed and carefully jointed, and a substan- tial roof is covered with shingles; it also contains several apartments- and when the exterior is whitewashed, it has a very pretty appearance’ In such a dwelling, occupied by a Colonel of Militia, I once dined most sumptuously, and spent several pleasant hours. As season succeeds season, so the clearing is enlarged, until the plough is put in motion, and field after field is seen bearing a crop. In the mean time, other adventurers have taken up the surrounding lands, and a wide gap is made in the forest. A log schoolhouse, with a cob chimney,* has been built, and well filled with children : a saw-mill and a ^ist-mill have been erected. The first log-house is now con- verted into a pig-sty, its proprietor having removed to a neat framed cottage, covered with clapboards and shingles, and perhaps painted red— a very favourite colour for houses in the country. The log school- house has been succeeded by a more spacious and comfortable building. The roads have been levelled, and a country trader has opened a little shop. The old toboggan has been laid aside, and sleighs or waggons dash along the streets. A house of worship has been erected, and a Missionary is called for. The sound of the post-boy's horn is heard in the village. Finally, the medical man makes his in the almost forlorn hope of winning a livelihood by a little farming and a Uttle practice. The time in which all these operations are performed is compara- tively short, and the changes they produce in the features of the coun- try seem like the work of magic rather than of ordinary industry. Nor • The tops of the chimneys in the log cabins are built of sticks, forming a sort of framework, which is thickly covered with clay mortar. These are called, cob chimneys. 252 NEW BRUNSWICK. are the comforts enjoyed by the inhabitants less than the appearance of their lands would indicate. Thousands of those who earned their first supplies into the woods upon their shoulders, now enjoy all the com- forts* and many of the luxuries of life. Even the once most destitute emigrant, who upon his arrival in the country was unacquainted with its peculiar mode of industry, has gained an honest independence, and many of such have lived to see their children established around them upon valuable farms. By such operations, the forests are levelled, and their solitudes are cheered by the light of day ; the swamps and hogs are redeemed to the plough, the scythe and the sickle, and hill and valley resound with human labour and happiness, — until the land is filled with villages, towns and cities ; turnpikes, canals and railways succeed, and transmit the rewards of labour for the support of com- merce — the command to “ increase and multiply” is obeyed, and many of the objects for which man was placed upon the earth are fulfilled. Wheat and oats are seldom sown in New Brunswick before the 10th of May, and the sowing is continued on the north coast to the 15th of June. Barley will ripen if sown as late as the 20th of June. Potatoes are planted from the 1st May to the 15th June ; and in the new settle- ments, the planting is continued to the 1st of July; but the late potatoes do not always ripen before their tops are destroyed by the frost. Gardening commences early in May, and turnips are planted through June to the middle of July. Hay-making commences in the latter part of July, when the weather is generally dry. The hay of the large intervales and marshes is dried and stacked upon the ground, being afterwards carried to the barns on sleds in the winter. The upland hay is generally put away under cover. The harvest of wheat, rye, and oats commences about the 10th of September ; and the grain of the old farms is secured in hams. The reaping is frequently performed by a scythe, attached to a light frame called a cradle, which is quite unknown in England. Potatoes are left in the ground until the middle of October, when they are dug and carted to the cellars. Parsneps are most delicious when they are permitted to remain in the ground all winter. Cows, horses, fat and working cattle, are stabled in November : NKW BRUNSWICK. 253 young stock remain in the fields until December, when all the animals are collected and housed, except sheep, which pass the winter better in the open air, being protected from the cold winds and snow-drift by thickets, or brushwood, placed against the fences of the barn-yard. The cattle are of a mixed breed, and in general much smaller than those in England. The common ox weighs about 700 lbs., yet there are a few which sometimes weigh 1,000 lbs. Usually, the beef is good. Almost all the oxen have been worked before they are fatted for market. Now', labour increases the strength and elasticity of mus- cular fibre ; it is therefore not surprising that the beef of such oxen should be less tender than that of the English ox, which is seldom hampered by the yoke, and grazes in rich pastures, or feeds upon tur- nips. The cattle pastured along the banks of the rivers are good swummers, and, from the bad state of the fences, are apt to become hreechy. Excepting instances where stock has been imported from England and mixed with the breeds of the country, the ordinary run of cows is small ; still, they are far from being bad milkers. The horses are a mixed race from the old Normandy or Canadian breed. The original stock were introduced into the country by the Acadian French, wdio still retain them. In general they are small, but capable of great endurance, and a lasting spirit during the most protracted journeys. From the introduction of horses from Great Britain and the United States, improvements have certainly been made in the size and appearance of that valuable animal. It is true that occasionally a handsome and swift horse appears in the market; yet the whole race, when taken together, cannot be compared with the horses of Europe, and a good number of them are unsound in wind and limb. The great number of horses required for drawing timber, and for other purposes, has led many farmers to increase their stock ; and it is com- mon to see a number of horses, of all ages, and in the most unsightly state, around the fann-yards during the winter. In country places, every man must have a horse, old or young, sound or unsound. Pe- destrianism is in disrepute. Horses and dogs seem to be the favourite animals of the Colonial farmer. The breed of sheep has been much improved by the agricultural 254 NEW BRUNSWICK. Societies and individuals. Fonnerly they were small, and the wool was not of the finest quality. The mutton of the present stock is usually fat and tender. Swine thrive well ; but, until of late, little pains have been taken to procure the most profitable kinds. A great proportion of the hogs have long ears, legs, and snouts ; and during the summer months, they are very lean and mischievous. From their thin and gaunt ap- pearance, they have been called shad, and their squeeling propensities are almost insupportable. The general introduction of Berk shires w'ould be a boon to the country. Poultry is raised by all classes of the inhabitants ; and the markets are frequently filled with the finest description of domestic fowls — also partridges, wild ducks, and other game. With the general advancement of agriculture, there has been an im- provement in the implements of husbandry. The importation of a few ploughs, drilling and winnowing machines, from England and Scotland, has afforded models, and the ingenuity of mechanics has been exercised to advantage in the construction of those instruments. Axes, hay-forks, rakes, measures, &c., are imported from the United States, notwith- standing they could be as cheaply manufactured in the Province as elsewhere. The inhabitants of a number of districts derive considerable advan- tage from the manufacture of maple sugar. This is obtained from the sap of the hard, or rock maple {^Acer saccharinum). In the spring of the year, generally in March, when the frost is leaving the ground, and especially at that period when it freezes at night and thaws during the day, an incision is made in the tree — or, what is better, a hole is bored with an auger, and the sap contained abundantly in the trunk is carried off by a small spout into troughs of fir, or vessels made of birch bark : at evening, it is collected and evaporated in pots or boilers, and stirred off into sugar. In one of the best sugaries, eight hundred trees are tapped, and a ton of sugar is produced annually. It is cast in moulds of bark, and the calces weigh from ten to twenty pounds. Besides a wholesome sugar, a delicious syrup is made, which is usually eaten with pancakes ; and at the close of the season, the sap, by fermentation, pro- duces good vinegar. It is to be regretted that so many groves of sugar maple have been felled. The tree is very valuable for its saccharine properties, and the sap may be extracted from it without any injury to its growth. In parts of the United States, the inhabitants have begun to plant the maple in orchards, for no other object than its sugar ; and almost every settler who has felled those trees in New Brunswick has since been sorry for the act. The sap of the grey birch yields a sub- stance resembling manna.* The science of agriculture is still in its infancy in New Brunswick. The system of clearing land is in itself very simple, and, from the suc- cess of the old and established method, few attempts are made to improve it. In the older cultivated districts the modem improvements of tillage might be readily introduced ; but, even here, the first princi- ples of the art are not generally understood. Until very lately, few farmers have had any idea of the rotation of crops. The same kinds of grain or potatoes have been raised from the ground several years in succession, until the soil has become exhausted ; and numerous fields have been abandoned, and will remain useless, until by long repose the soil shall be restored to fertility. Formerly, in the new settlements, heaps of stable manure and rotten straw were allowed to remain from year to year, the owners sup- posing that the expense of spreading them on the soil would not be repaid in the crop ; and instances have occurred where bams have been removed from site to site to avoid the accumulating nuisance of the stable. In other instances, the manure has been thrown into rivers, or disposed of in pits and swamps : even at the present time little pains are taken to prevent it from being washed away by the rains, and the ap- plication of liquid manure is almost unknown. It is a common practice to lay the best stable dung in small heaps upon the soil in the autumn ; during the long winter it is exposed to alternate freezing and thawing, and ere the spring arrives, and it is spread and ploughed in, its volatile and fertilising matter has chiefly disappeared. But, however absurd such practices may appear to the British farmer, they are scarcely less unwise than many followed by respectable immigrants, who refuse to adopt a somewhat rude and hurried plan of cultivation, and too fre- * Pic-nic parties frequently visit the siigaries, where they are treated to a kind of candy called “long-lick.** S5r> NEW BRUNSWICK. quently devote their labour and money to trifling objects, overlooking the ** main chance,” so called by the experienced and chary American villager. With these remarks, it is proper to add, that a zeal for im- provement begins to appear in the more intelligent inhabitants. Hus- bandry is getting rid of the odium that was formerly cast upon it, and persons of the first respectability have engaged in the occupation. Agri- cultural Societies are also doing good ; but their usefulness would be greatly increased by the more generous support of the Legislature, and the establishment of a few well-conducted experimental farms would be found highly beneficial in forming a basis for the future industry of the country. With a correct view of the climate and soil of New Brunswick, it might be supposed that she is capable at least of supplying her in- habitants with food : so far, however, from being able to meet her own wants, the provisions annually imported from Great Britain, the United States, Canada, and Nova Scotia, amount to a sum that far exceeds the yearly revenue of the Province. This great deficiency in the supply of the necessaries of life arises from the timber trade, which sends a large part of the population away from the fields into the forests, and the low state of agriculture, now managed with a lack of its most necessary elements, skill and labour. Before closing the present chapter, we may be permitted to take some notice of hunting, trapping, and fishing, — not because they form common branches of Provincial industry, but from their relation to the natural resources of the country. Mr. Murray observes, that among the expectations which lure the British settler to America, one of the most attractive appears to be the almost unlimited scope for hunting in a country of wild woodland, where no game-laws embarrass the sports- man, and where he may expect to derive an agreeable addition to his supply of food. But the farmers of New Brunswick well know that the chasing of wild animals through the woods is incompatible with ease, and in general very unprofitable. Hunting is therefore confined to a few individuals in the new settlements, and more especially the Indians, who cherish the pursuits of their ancestors, and follow the chase, by which their pressing wants are sometimes relieved. new BRUNSWICK 257 aJl^r V ““d other wild -m h are so plenUful in America, that the hunter has only to w k mto the forest, where he can get a view of them as he would of the annuals m a menagerie. But although there is still much game in the lah "1' mountains, it is seldom obtained without mammoth of the Northern Continent ^ valuabk for food as beef. In the winter, when the earth is covered weirl disturbed. Thdr ' whenit^''^ “d ‘brough very deep snow; and ticable tTJT ^ ^ pursuer is imprac- vered the h ^"d snow-shoes, having disco- vered the haunt, enters U and shoots down the harmless herd. If any emp to escape, they are soon exhausted in the deep snow, and bemg followed, are cut down by the tomahawk or axe. As the yards’ of the moose are only found at places remote from the settlements jch of their flesh has been left in the forests. In the early settlement f the country, the Indians, being jealous of the white inhabitants oped to drive them away by destroying the game. Nor were the first settlers careful to preserve those valuable animals: thousands were killed for their skins alone, and it is painful to reflect upon the wanton waste of life that once sported over the soil. In this kind of hunting there is no amusement: it is rather a savage •ind of butchery, from which a true sportsman would turn away in disgust. In light snows, when the moose can travel, the hunter fol- lows the track, in the most noiseless manner, until he overtakes his game. The Indians are remarkably subtle on a moose-walk. The animal does not always bound away when he discovers his pursuer, but turns round, and elevates bis lofty antlers, apparenUy pleased with the atal novelty. They have been known to stand a few moments after * NEW BRUNSWICK. 258 the first shot was fired; but, if unhurt, they seldom wait for the second discharge of the gun. In this kind of forest sport, the hunter carries a gun, axe, blanket, a wallet of provisions, and fireworks. At night, he kindles a fire, makes a bed of spruce or cedar boughs, rolls himself in his blanket, and lies down in repose : but in the morning he is likely to find him- self almost in a perpendicular position ; the fire having melted away the snow at his feet, all6ws them to fall, while the head remains ele- vated. As soon as the dawn appears, he wends his way over hill and valley on the well-known track of his game, ever excited by hope and continued qui vive. And certainly all his toil and privation are re- warded by a view of the long-looked-for moose in liis stately pride and majesty. At the foot of some great tree, or behind a root or windfall, he watches with steady eye his unsuspicious prey, and creeps upon him with the slyness of a serpent ; and, when within range, even the “ oldest hands” tremble, and the bosom flutters, as the gun is levelled. If the hunter be a “ green one,” the moose generally escapes unhurt ; but the bullet of the experienced marksman brings him to the ground. The moose is not a fleet animal, and when alarmed, runs with a shambling gait, striking his hoofs against each other, and frequently stumbling. When hotly pursued by dogs, he will often turn and take them up on the points of his horns and toss them into the air. In the latter part of September and first of October (the running season), they are decoyed by the Indians, who having placed themselves in ambush, employ a rude instrument known as the moose-call, by which they imitate the peculiar looing of the animal, that approaches the decoy without fear, and is shot. They are also sometimes ensnared by a noose in the end of a strong rope. The ordinary moose weighs about 1000 lbs., and largest ones 1,500 lbs. The moufle or loose muscular covering of the nose is considered by epicures a great dainty. The reindeer, or carriboo, is a smaller animal, the largest weighing 400 lbs. They are very swift ; but when there is a deep snow covered by a crust, they are soon overtaken by men and dogs. And they are frequently caught alive ; but, from the difficulty of leading them out of the thickets, the hunter usually I'iiio 4.1. • herd, i„ the Wgi„.i„g „ 1 ereens Th»,r ’ “ “bowses upon mosses and ever- .ha„ moo.. v.„ro„™nid '* f" ..MOO, ■ Serieg tb. cold ehi.«y*!3'rrmlXyb“'™d'^tarer T”"" of earriboo ar. „.o i m X "I .uX’ X hooXdXT:x:riixxr’ r:"- r “"‘■ rriTz; ::™. x » - . rail a foo. ioXh Tb •idea of a pair of ™ ', bo T“' '>>’ •'>' ■b. r«l d J, . bo, i„ ,!i|o T- 77"“' “ iehabiunt,. Il, «..h i, „o, highly vI‘TT‘‘r7'™“ and^, 7"" "• ■‘"■-'•iek pnorToTsTs • twilight, deer frequently enter <-hr» j & > 3,t young domestic cattle. The skins of the moose, earriboo, and deer are valuable and fh are frequently employed for covering sleighs, ’ Foxes are sometimes hunted by a single hound or beagle which but away ut performs a wide circuit in the forest. The hunter conceals himse^ on the Ime of h. circle, and fires upon him as he passes; and The take the ground, he is dug out. The state of the country will It allow hunting with a pack. ^ Beaver have become very scarce, being only taken by the Indians Re:;::r " - - - — - Notwithstanding the bounties offered by the Legislature for their s 2 2G0 NISW BRUNSWICK. destruction, bears are rather numerous. They are hunted occasionally hymen and dogs, but most frequently they are caught m fall-traps made of wood. They are not ferocious, except when their cubs are in danger, or they have been wounded.* Among the carnivorous animals of the Province, wolves are the most destructive, and they are yearly growing more numerous and trou e- some. It is now not unusual to hear of a whole flock of sheep being destroyed by these nocturnal depredators ; they are not much hunted. and but seldom is a wolf killed. The lynx, or wild cat, affords some sport ; and when any number of them assemble together, they are very formidable. As soon as a cat is discovered, if a good dog be put on the track or scent, the animal will « tree” immediately : he generally selects the loftiest spruce, and clim s to the very summit. 1 have killed several in such situations, and one of them, a large male, after he had been pierced by a ball from my rifle, and fallen through the limbs upwards of seventy feet, beat o two powerful dogs and nearly killed a fine spaniel : he was finally despatched by another shot. On another occasion, I shot a very large lynx, and supposing that the animal was dead, hung him up to a tree ® letrs, until I should return and carry him off: in a short time the ca revived, and began scratching the tree with his fore paws. A tme Hibernian, who had very recently arrived in the country, chance to pass the new road where the creature hung, and supposing it to be the crreatEvil Spirit, fled into the woods : being missed in the evening, a search was set on foot, and the lad was found again ; but the poor * In 1842, Poulcis, an old deaf-and-dumb Indian, had killed a deer among the Nerepis Hills, but being unable to carry the whole of the flesh away at once, a part of it was left, and for which the Indian returned on the following day, when he found that a bear had eaten up a part of the venison. The old man, m returning to his wigwam with the remainder of the deer on his back, sudden y felt a heavy paw upon his shoulder; he immediately turned round and raised his tomahawk ; the bear and the Indian stood face to face some time, unUl t e former sullenly retired, but afterwards followed him to some distance. Poulcis and Nuel Gable, an expert hunter, immediately set a trap for brum, and he was caught and brought to the Writer. He was very old, much scarred, and w&igbed 400 lbs. NEW BRUNSWICK. SGI fellow always maintained tliat he saw a squirrel as large as a horse trying to go up a tree tail foremost. The Felis concolor, panther, painter, or catamount— better known in the Province as the Indian Devil — although a small, is a very dangerous animal ; they are very rare, yet sometimes a single skin is brought into the market. Hares are plentiful; and they are frequently shot, or taken in snares. Among the birds, the wild geese afford some profitable sporting. In the month of April they arrive in large flocks, and light in the open parts of the rivers. They are very numerous on the coast of the Bay Chaleurs. In the night-time, and during the April snow-storm, canoes are sometimes paddled among them, when the birds are killed by clubs. In fine weather they are very shy, and as soon as the sports- man approaches them, the sentinel, an old gander, sounds the well- known caa-hoouk, and away they fly ; they are sometimes killed, and the largest weigh from twelve to fifteen pounds each. The numerous rivers and lakes afford some fine duck-shooting, and ill certain seasons pigeons are numerous. To the new settler, none of the feathered tribes is of more value than the common partridge, as it is called, although the bird is the ruffled grouse ( Tetrao umhellus) : another variety, which resembles the quail, is called the spruce partridge {Tetrao Canadensis); it is less palatable, and sometimes rendered un- wholesome by feeding upon laurel leaves. Both kinds are exceedingly tame, and the latter may be caught in a noose suspended at the end of a long pole. A covey of the ruflled grouse, or birch partridges, in situa- tions where they have not been disturbed, will remain on a tree until each individual is shot : the birds on the lower limbs should be shot first, as the falling of the upper ones will disturb those situated beneath them. Snipe and woodcock afford some fine shooting in their season : the former are very numerous on the intervales and borders of the great marshes ; the latter frequent close covers of grey birch, cedar, larch, and alder. The Esquimaux curlew are as large as English partridges, but not numerous. Plover are sometimes plentiful in September. Cock and snipe shooting are not much practised, except in the neigh- bourhood of St. John and Fredericton. In the interior the snii)es are 262 HEW BRUNSWICK. frequently called “ mudsuckers.” Gulls and other sea-birds are killed on the shores for their feathers. Notwithstanding game is in some degree plentiful, farmers and set- tlers on new land are seldom seen sporting. When they sport at all, they shoot for the pot, and not for amusement. A considerable number of wild animals are taken annually for their furs, by the Indians and a few trappers. The bear is readily taken in a large wooden cage, across the door of which a heavy piece of timber is fixed, with a trigger. Bait is placed in the cage. These traps are dangerous to dogs and other domestic animals, and men have been severely injured by them. ** A trapper went out to catch a bear, where The trapper was caught, and not the bear, there.” Moose, carriboo, and the Virginian deer are sometimes ensnared ; foxes are caught in steel traps ; martins, ermines, and minks are taken in “ dead falls muskrats, or musquashes, which are very plentiful, are generally shot. ^ There are ample materials for another pursuit — namely, lake and river fishing. The old Indian system of taking salmon is still pursued by the natives, and has been adopted by the whites. To take this valuable and delicious fish, a canoe is launched into the stream, in the darkest hours of the night, having a luminous torch of birch-bark or pine-knots burning over the prow. The fisherman stands in the stem of his bark, or “ log,” with a long pole, on one end of which is a spear, and with the other end he “ poles” the canoe in the required direction. The light afforded by the torch enables him to see the salmon dis- tinctly, which he strikes and secures with great dexterity. Besides what are taken in nets, great numbers of salmon are killed annually by the spear.* ♦ During the exploration of the Tobique River by the Writer in August 1842, his son and an Indian loaded a canoe with salmon and whitefish in a few hours, and it was with difficulty the natives could be restrained from killing the fish after the whole supply of salt had been applied for their preservation. Salmon are also plentiful in other rivers : they rise freely at a proper fly, and will afford the angler admirable sport. NEW BRUNSWICK. ^gg Trout are exceedingly numerous in almost all the streams, and sup- ply no inconsiderable quantity of food to the backwoodsman. They are taken by children, with a baited hook attached to a piece of twine on the end of a light pole, also in nets. In the month of March, holes are cut in the ice, and the trout are taken in great numbers by hooks baited with fat pork. A warm and mild day is chosen for ice-lishing. To those who are fond of the piscatorial art, the rivers and lakes of New Brunswick offer abundant and varied sources of sport and amuse- ment. In the Cheputnecticook River, where it runs through the unfre- quented forest, the trout are so numerous that they may be swept on shore by seines. I have seen the bottom of the river covered by them ; and no sooner does the artificial fly touch the water, especially the red hackle, than numbers of mouths are open to receive it, and the trout frequently spring into the air with the deceptive bait deeply gorged. Their ordinary weight is from half a pound to three pounds : the largest will weigh six pounds, and even more. Among them is a white trout called by the lumbermen » shiners." The Tobique, Aroostook, Mira- michi, Nepisiguit, Upsalquiteh, and Restigouche abound in trout ; and the angler is only perplexed by the weight of his load, and the diffi- culty of rightly disposing of the produce of his sport. In the lesser streams, the fish are smaller in size and inferior in flavour to the large and more highly-coloured varieties. Sea-trout may be taken on the north shores of the Province. In the Cheputnecticook Lakes, there is a kind of salmon called “ togue,” and sometimes “ tu- ladi.” It is the Salmo lacustris, a large fish weighing from fifteen to thirty pounds. Cuvier supposed that this variety of salmon was pecu- liar to the Lake of Geneva; but it is found in many of the large collec- tions of fresh water in North America. It is caught with bait in the deepest water, in June and July, and the fishing is performed in canoes. Whitefish are plentiful in the above lakes, and are annually taken in nets by the Americans, who do not hesitate to cross the boundary and fish in British water. The same fish are also numerous in the Tobique : they are about the size of large herrings, but far preferable for food. Bass, herring, and gaspereau also frequent some of the rivers at certain seasons : their particular resorts have been already mentioned. Stur- 264 NEW BRUNSWICK. geon are very common in the St. John ; and gizzard fish, perch, suckers, chub, and others of the small fry, are also obtained in that river. It is not probable that these fresh-water fisheries will ever be objects of a peculiar branch of industry ; for before markets for their produce will be formed, the quantity of fish will be much reduced. They are rather resources to which the emigrant may direct some attention, in order to increase his stock of provisions ; but they should never be pursued to the neglect of the tillage of the soil. O CHAPTER VIII. It.. THE FISHERIES OF NEW BRUNSWICK. Next in importance to agriculture are the fisheries, which, under proper protection and management, would supply the elements of vast export and wealth. Of all the branches of our Provincial resources, this has been the most neglected. Among the negotiations carried on between reat Bntain and foreign Powers, none have been more injurious to the interests of the Northern Colonies, nor displayed less wisdom and judg- ment, than those that have been applied to this essential portion of o onial resources. The indiscreet negotiations between Great Britain and the United States of America, and the utter disregard of the existing treaties by the latter, have not only injured the fisheries, but have checked the spirit of enterprise among the Colonists, who turn away from their inherent rights to avoid the insults and depredations of the people of the neighbouring Republic. In giving a sketch of the history of the fisheries, we quote from an able Report of a Committee of the House of Assembly of Nova Scotia, made in 1837, which, with the evidence connected with it, exhibits a system of invasion upon British nghts that still goes on unpunished, and is unparalleled in the records of modem times. “The cod-fishery of Newfoundland and Canso, on the peninsula of Nova Scotia, commenced soon after the discovery of the former by Sebastian Cabot, in the reign of Henry the Seventh, 1497. AU nations resorted to the banks and coasts of that island until the reign of Eliza- beth, when Sir Humphrey Gilbert took possession, and claimed sove- reignty under the right of original discovery : Newfoundland acknow- ledged that right. The French Government disputed the claim to the fishery of Canso, until Nova Scotia was ceded by treaty in 1749, and NEW BRUNSWICK. 266 Cape Breton conquered in 1758 ; from which period, British subjects pursued the fisheries on Brown’s Bank and the banks of Nova Scotia exclusively, and on the banks of Newfoundland in common with the subjects of every European nation ; the Colonists also, with British subjects only, resorted at pleasure to every part of Newfoundland, and to the Labrador coasts, after the expulsion of the French from Canada in 1759, to which Government Labrador then belonged, leaving the French accommodated with the Islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon, and the northern side of Newfoundland.* At the peace of 1783, a treaty was entered into between- the United States and Great Britain, by the third article of which the people of the former obtained the right ‘ to take fish on the Grand Bank and all other banks of New- foundland, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and all other places in the sea where the inhabitants of both countries had been used to fish before, and the liberty to fish on such part of the coast of Newfoundland as British* fishermen used (but not to dry or cure fish there), and on the coasts, bays, and creeks of all other British dominions in America.’ American fishermen also obtained liberty to dry and cure fish in any unsettled bays, harbours, and creeks of Nova Scotia, Magdalen Islands, and Labrador ; but as soon as any of them were settled, this liberty was to cease, unless continued by agreement with the inhabitants. “ By this inconsiderate article of the treaty f (to speak of it in the ♦ The encroachments of the French upon the fisheries of Newfoundland have become a subject of general complaint by the inhabitants of that island. Being supported by bounties, the French have a decided advantage over the British, and the supply of bait they receive from the islanders, contrary to the treaty, has made them most successful competitors. From encroachments and violations of the rights of British subjects, St. John, that formerly sent one hundred sail of vessels to the Banks, in 1844 sent only thjee. No sooner is a British vessel anchored on the Bank, than she is surrounded by Frenchmen, who set their bultoes and draw away all the fish. t The Provisional Treaty of 1 783 was framed by Mr. Oswald, the Plenipo- tentiary of Great Britain, and Franklin and Jay on the part of the United States. On the return of the former to England, the merchants of London waited upon him and remonstrated against the concession he had made, of which it has been said he acknowledged his ignorance and wept. Franklin, in a letter from Paris, stated that Mr. Oswald appeared to be “so good and reasonable a man, that he should be loath to lose him— he seems to have nothing 267 NEW BHL'NSWICK. mildest terms), a source was opened from which flowed a torrent of misfortune to the inhabitants of this Province: by it the harbours of the Atlantic Colomes were thrown open to the vessels of the United States ; the native fishermen subjected to a hostile rivalry, with which they were unable to compete, and from which no prospect was afforded of escape ; while liberties of no ordinary character were ceded to the United States, affording profitable fields for commerce, and fostering a race of seamen conducive to national wealth in peace, and to defence and glory in war. Writhing under difficulties thus heaped on them, the Colonists, by the declaration of war in 1812, were unexpeetedly relieved, and exerted themselves to retain their restored rights. Fish- ing vessels of the United States were ordered off by British naval forces, or captured and condemned, on the ground that the treaty no longer existed, maintaining that the Treaty of 1783, not having been confirmed by the Treaty of Ghent, was annulled by the war of 1812. At this period warm and energetic remonstrances went from the Colonies, soliciting the protection of their rights; and on the subject of the fisheries. Nova Scotia was foremost. By memorial, on the 8th of October, 1813, she entreated His Majesty’s Ministers to guard against the hateful article of the Treaty of 1783, and to exclude the French, Amencan, and foreign fishermen from the narrow seas and waters of these northern Colonies ; stating that her inhabitants procured a living by their industry on those shores, which unquestionably belonged to Great Britain. She urged, that if American citizens were to obtain the right of entering the gulfs, bays, harbours, or creeks of these Colonies, there would be no security against illicit trade, and the numerous evils attending such intercourse : that the sentiments, habits, and man- ners, both political and moral, of the lower order of Americans were dangerous and contaminating : that it was the first and most fervent wish of these Colonies to be completely British— their surest defence at heart but the good of mankind, and putting a stop to mischief. Mr. Oswald, an old man, seems now to have no desire but that of being useful." From these, and a variety of other facts, it is plain that the British Ambassador was completely outwitted by the cunning and crafty course of the American Di- plomatists, and gave away fisheries to which the Republic had no equitable claim. NEW BRUNSWICK. 9 i 268 and greatest blessing ; and that the intercourse permitted by that fatal article of the definitive treaty was detrimental and ruinous. “ The United States dissented from the doctrine maintained by Great Britain, and, after protracted negotiation and various proposals, the Convention of 1818, under which the inhabitants of this Colony have been a second time stripped of their natural rights, was agreed on; and, disregarding the voice of the people, the Minister of that day con- sented that the United States should have for ever, in common with British subjects, the liberty to fish on the southern coasts of Newfound- land, from Cape Rae to the Raman Islands, on the western and northern coasts of Newfoundland, and from that Cape to the Querpon Islands, on the shores of the Magdalen Islands, and on the coasts, bays, har- bours, and creeks from Mount J olie, on the southern coast of Labrador, to and through the Straits of Belisle, and thence indefinitely along the coast northerly, but without prejudice to the exclusive rights of the Hudson’s Bay Company ; and that the American fishermen should also have liberty for ever to dry and cure fish in any of the unsettled bays, harbours, and creeks of the southern coast of Newfoundland, as above described, and of the coast of Labrador — subject, after settlement, to agreement with the proprietors of the soil. In consequence of the above stipulation, the United States renounced for ever the liberty of fisliing within three marine miles of any part of the British coasts of America, or of curing or drying fish on them ; but American fishermen were to be permitted to enter bays or harbours on the prohibited coasts, for shelter, repairing damages, and purchasing wood and obtaining water, and for no other purpose whatever, subject to restrictions neces- sary to prevent abuses. Thus, in the face' of the decisions of our Courts — of petitions from Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, and the merchants of London interested in the Colonies, the foregoing fatal treaty was pro- posed, agreed on, and completed with such marked secrecy, that none were apprised of its terms until it appeared in the public prints, and the people of this Province deprived of their most valuable birthright, the fisheries, “ The advantage conferred on the citizens of the United States of America by the foregoing policy, was received by them, not as a boon, but as a right. Although the war of 1812 had abrogated the Treaty of NEW BRUNSWICK. 269 1783, the Minister Plenipotentiary of the United States, who nego- dated and settled the new convention, to use his own language, said, It was by our act that the United States renounced the right to the fisheries not guaranteed to them by the convention. We deemed it proper under a threefold view, — 1st, To exclude the implication of the fisheries secured to us being a new grant ; 2nd, To place the rights secured and renounced on the same footing of permanence ; 3rd, That it might expressly appear that our i*enunciation was limited to three miles of the coasts. This last point we deemed of more consequence, from our fishermen having informed us, that the whole fishing-ground on the coast of Nova Scotia extended to a greater distance than three miles from the land, whereas on the coast of Labrador it was universally close in with the shore. To the saving of the exclusive rights of the Hudson’s Bay Company we did not object ; the charter of that Com- pany had been granted in 1670, and the people of the United States had never enjoyed rights in that bay which could trench upon those of the Company. Finally, it is to be remarked, that the liberty of drying and curing on certain parts of the coasts of Newfoundland, as secured in the article, had not been allotted to the United States, even under the old Treaty of 1783.’ “ When the convention was made public, the article on the fisheries was assailed by complaints from all quarters, and none more loud or just than those from Nova Scotia. Galled by the recollection of the Treaty of Paris in 1814, the Colonists felt that Great Britain, when flushed with conquest, and wearing the laurels of victory, had yielded to the intrigues of the vanquished, and alienated the rights of her subjects ; they felt the utter hopelessness of breaking the treaty — that the fate of the fishery was sealed, and were lulled into submission by the in- timation of the Alinistry, that bounties would be granted upon their fish, to compensate for the disadvantages inevitably imposed. In Nova Scotia, the information produced gloom, distrust, and despair. They were, however, still composed by the assurance of the Government, that their remaining rights should be protected — that the naval force would repel infringers of the treaty, and the flag of England would insure safety to the industrious class engaged in the laborious pursuits of the fishery ; and the Colonists were assured, that the vigilance of 270 NEW BRUNSWICK. the naval force would shut out the dangerous rivalry of foreigners, at least in the fishery within three marine miles of the coast of Nova Scotia. How far their anticipations and hopes have been realised will appear in the sequel.*** Notwithstanding the concessions made by the Treaty of 1783, pre- vious to and during the war of 1812, Great Britain enjoyed the chief fisheries of the Banks of Newfoundland, Labrador, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and the Gulf of St. Lawrence.-f The mackerel, herring, and gaspereau fisheries were then not pur- sued with much ardour, as other fish were considered more valuable. At Perce and Paspediac, there were several extensive fishing establish- ments, and also at Shippegan and other places along the northern coast of New Brunswick. The salmon fisheries of the Restigouche, Mira- michi, and Richibucto were then of much consequence, and thousands of tierces of them were shipped annually to a foreign market. The whole shore at certain seasons was lined by the finny tribes, which, from the offal thrown overboard by the Americans, have since been reduced. Through the medium of her Northern Colonies, Great Britain then had the command of the Spanish, Portuguese, Madeira, West Indian, Mediterranean, and South American markets, which she supplied with fish, and each returning ship was laden -with the produce of other countries, whereby a most active and flourishing trade was steadily * Journal of the House of Assembly of Nova Scotia, 1837. t According to Mr. McGregor, the exports in 1814 were — 1,200,000 quintals Fish, at 40s £2,400,000 20,000 ,, Core do., at 12s 12,000 6.000 tuna Cod Oil, at £32 192,000 156,000 Seal Skins, at Ss 39,000 4,666 tuns Seal Oil, at £36 167,976 2.000 tierces Salmon, at £5 10,000 1,685 barrels Mackerel, at 30s 2,527 4.000 casks Caplin Sounds and Tongues . . 2,000 2,100 barrels Herring, at £25 2,525 Beaver Skins and other Furs 600 Pine Timber and Planks 500 400 puncheons Berries.. 2,000 NEW BRUNSWICK. 271 maintained, and through the fisheries an inexhaustible source of wealth was opened to the Provinces, a boundless field was offered for training seamen, and the maritime resources of the Colonies promised suflicient support to render them a powerful rival of the whole American Re- public. These advantages existed even under the Treaty of 1783, which had ceded away many British rights. The third article of that treaty was assailed in the House of Commons by Lord North, who, in a noble speech, declared that “ in our spirit of reciprocity, we had given to the Americans an unlimited right to take fish of any kind on the Great Bank, and use all the other banks of Newfoundland. But this was not sufficient. We have also given them the right of fishing in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and at all other places in the sea where they have heretofore, through us, enjoyed the privilege of fishing. They have also the power of even partaking of the fishery which we still retain. We have not been content with resigning what we promised, but even of sharing of what we have left. The United States have liberty to fish on that part of the coast of Newfoundland which British fishermen shall use. All the reserve is, that they are not to dry and cure fish on the same island. This is certainly a striking instance of that Uberal equity which we find in the basis of the provisional treaty ; but where shall I find an instance of that reciprocity which is also set forth in the pre- amble ? We have given the Americans the unlimited privilege of fish- ing on all the coasts, bays, and creeks in our American dominions ; but where have they, under this principle of reciprocity, given us the privilege of fishing on any of their coasts, bays, and creeks? I could wish such an article could be found, were it only to give a colour to this boasted reciprocity,*^* If British Statesmen are indeed celebrated for their skill in diplomatic affairs, and for wisdom and justice in their negotiations with foreign Powers, Her Majesty’s subjects have seldom discovered them on this side of the Atlantic, in former treaties or in those now existing, by which our fisheries have been given away, or thrown open to encroach- ments and endless cavillings. A part of New Brunswick has been assigned to a grasping commonwealth, who would fain spread the wings • Cobbett, vol. xxiii. p. 451. 272 new BRUNSWICK. of their eagle over the land and water of the whole continent ; are now entertained that the Oregon Territory still m dispute will be yielded up to the avariciousness and jealousy of the “n Con^ For the leniency of the parent-country towards the people the Un States, an apology has been found in paternal affection towards the inhabitants of the New , I feeling ceases to be a virtue when it is exercised ^ the rebellious and undutiful, and is prejudicial to the faithful^a “^Fr2^ the rights of fishing granted to the French at the close of the last war. and to the Americans by the Treaty of 1818. the adv^Uges of the great fisheries are. in a great degree, lost to the subjects of Great Britain The French and American Governments give bounties an other encouragements to their fisheries on the coast. The fish token by the French and Americans can therefore be sold on terms in the market than those caught by British subjects. If they be not put on an equal footing with the subjects of those Powers, the ad- vantages they possess over the British must have the effect of sapping the foundation of the trade, and subverting the fisheries altogether The French had always attached a high degree of importance to the fisheries on our coasts, and after Louisburg and Quebec, their strong- holds in America, had been taken from them, they continued to nego- tiate ^vith great address and firmness for those maritime resources, not only for the support of their trade, but also for a profitable emp oy- ment. by which thousands of their subjects were annually trained to the sea. and thereby affording the elements of a powerful navy. Of the men employed in this branch of industry, at least onc-fourrii were landsmen, or persons unacquainted with the sea; ‘‘and by this trade they bred up from 4.000 to 6.000 seamen annually.” f In 1829. France employed from 250 to 300 vessels in the fis enes on the British American coasts, and 25.000 sea-going fishermen, who by treaty are not permitted to beeome residents. Their vessels are from 100 to 400 tons burthen, and carry from 40 to 120 men each. • Memorial of the inhabitonte of Newfoundland to Earl Bathurst, t McGregor’s British America, vol. i. p. 241. NEW BRUNSWICK. Since that period the number of men and vessels has been increased, but to what extent I have been unable to determine. In the above year the Americans employed in these fisheries 1,500 vessels, manned by 15,000 men, and took 1,000,000 quintals of fish and 3,000 tuns of oil. The total number now employed exceeds 2,500 vessels and 25,000 men. At the lowest estimate, one quarter of these vessels fish in British waters, and b^ond the bounds prescribed by the treaty. The whole quantity of fish taken in British-American seas is now equal to 2,000,000 quintals annually. It is justly observed by Mr. M'Gregor, that « in ceding to France the right of fishing on the shores of Newfoundland from Cape John to Cape Ray, with the islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon, we gave that ambitious nation all the means that her Government desired for man- ning a navy ; and if we now determine to lay a train of circumstances which, by their operation, should sap the very vitals of our naval strength, we could not more effectually have done so than by granting a full participation of those fisheries to France and America.” Mr. Rush, in his work, has given a history of the negotiations on the sub- ject of the fisheries, and has endeavoured to defend the principles laid down in the Treaty of 1 783 ; but in this his failure is very manifest, and It has been repeatedly decided by the best authorities that the claims of the Americans could not be sustained by law or equity. The fears of the Colonists at the time.’when the last treaty was made are proved to have been but too well founded, and they now realise all the evils, and even more than they then anticipated. It is not possible that the framers of those treaties on the part of Great Britain could have foreseen the result of the concessions made to France and the United States, by which the Colonies are now oppressed, and the right reserved for them intruded upon, either by stealth or open violence. Among the unwise and impolitic concessions made to the French and Americans, are those that allow them to enter the Gulf of St. Lawrence, which is encircled by British territory, and whose vast and almost un- inhabited shores cannot be protected against aggression by fishermen. The prohibition not to approach within three marine miles of the shore is so easily evaded, that it is an invitation to land rather than a restric- tion. The liberUes granted to the above Powers have greatly depre- NEW BRUNSWICK, 274 dated the value offish in foreign markets, and diminished the political importance and real value of the fisheiies. From the extraordinary privileges granted to the American Republic, and the humiliating sur- render of Colonial rights recognised by each successive treaty, it is not surprising that, during the past year, they should again endeavour to obtain by negotiation the few remaining fishing rights of the Colonies, and seek a novel interpretation of^he language of a treaty that, in its plain meaning, had already given them far beyond their just claims. By force and “ management,” they have compelled France, Spain, and Russia to make room for them at three different points of the compass. Texas has been taken by their charm. They have coaxed Great Britain to extend their north-eastern^ boundary upon the lands of Canada and New Brunswick. The aboriginal tribes of America have been driven back, regardless of justice or humanity, until, to use the language of one "of their chiefs, “ their faces are towards the great icy ocean, where their homes will be with the white bear in the mountains of snow, until the Great Spirit shall take them all away to the land where the pale-faces never come.” They claim the Oregon country, first discovered and occupied by British subjects, and begin to anticipate the possession of the whole continent. To them the remaining fisheries of the Colonists are unimportant, except that they are an object which will serve to perpetuate a system of constant acquisition they have always maintained, and to which the parent-country has but too often submitted, at the sacrifice of the interests of her faithful subjects. In 1845, despatches were sent from the Colonial Office by Lord Stanley, then Secretary for the Colonies, to the Governors of the several North American Provinces, respecting the fisheries. The despatch to Viscount Falkland dated 19th of May states, ‘‘that, after mature deliberation. Her Majesty’s Government deem it advisable, for the in- terests of both countries, to relax the strict rule of exclusion exercised by Great Britain over the fishing- vessels of the United States entering the bays of the sea on the British North American coasts.” This in- telligence was received in the Provinces with the deepest regret and anxiety. The danger of being brought to a further degree of humilia- tion, and of having every cove and inlet lined by American fishermen, aroused all classes of the inhabitants, and strong remonstrances were NEW BRUNSWICK. 275 promptly sent to the Colonial Secretary against a measure that would surrender the remaining fishing rights of the people to foreigners, who had trampled upon the restrictions of the Treaty of 1818, and many of whom had put both National and Provincial law at defiance. Had the request of the American Minister been complied with, the present sound loyalty of the Colonists would have had a worm placed at its root, or begun to falter under a burden fixed gratuitously upon their resources. Fortunately, the active measures employed by the different Local Go- vernments had a salutary effect, and the American Minister was defeated in his main object \ but not until he had declared, that the Provincial law relating to the fisheries possessed “ none of the qualities of the law of a civilised State except its forms J"' In the despatch of Lord Stanley to the Governor of Nova Scotia, of 17th September, 1845, the former states, that, “ respecting the policy of granting permission to the fisher- men of the United States to fish in the Bay of Chaleurs, and other large bays of a similar character on the coasts of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, and apprehending from your statements that any such general concession would be injurious to the interests of the British North American Provinces, we have abandoned the intention we had enter- tained upon the subject, and shall adhere to the strict letter of the treaties which exist between Great Britain and the United States rela- tive to the fisheries in North America, except in so far as they may relate to the Bay of Fundy, which has been thrown open to the Americans under certain restrictions," Here, again, a gradual yielding to the citizens of the Republic is as manifest as ever, and which, if it be not speedily and permanently checked, will lead to consequences most dis- astrous to the welfare of the Colonies. The Convention of 1818 allowed the people of the United States to fish along all the coasts and harbours within three marine miles of the shore, and to cure fish in such bays and harbours as are not inhabited ; but if inhabited, subject to agreement with the proprietors of the soil. It also permits them to enter bays or harbours on the prohibited coasts for shelter, repairing damages, and purchasing wood and obtaining water, and for no other purpose whatever — subject to restrictions, to prevent abuses. It has been decided by eminent lawyers, that, according to the plain T 2 NEW BRUNSWICK. ^7G and obvious construction of the convention, the citizens of the United States cannot fish within three marine miles of the headlands of the coasts of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick ; and that they have no right to enter the bays, harbours, or creeks, except for shelter, or for the objects before mentioned— and then only on having proved that they left their own ports properly equipped for their voyages : but it has been abundantly proved, by the most unquestionable authority, from time to time, and the fact is notorious, that they frequent our shores as freely as they do their own, or as if they had a confirmed right to them. Having given a very brief view of the rapid advances made upon our fisheries by the Americans under the Treaties of 1783 and 1818, and their pretensions to still further liberties, we may turn to the practical effects of those treaties, and examine a little into their ultimate con- sequences. Not only do the American fishermen visit our shores, contrary to the terms of the Convention of 1818, but they land and purchase bait from the inhabitants. In numerous instances, they set their nets in the coves and harbours of the Province, and not unfrequently compel the inhabitants, by force, to submit to their encroachments. They land on the Magdalen Islands, and take the fish as freely as British subjects, who, by superior forces, are sometimes driven from their own ground. Early in April, schooners, shallops, and other craft, are fitted out in almost every harbour of the Western States and despatched to the fisheries. They are amply supplied with provisions, salt, empty casks, seines, nets, lines, hooks, jigs, and every article necessary for taking all kinds of fish. Such as are intended for a shore or trading voyage*' carry a stock of pork, flour, molasses, tobacco, gin, and other goods adapted to the wants of the Provincial fisherman and his family. As the season advances, the banks and best fishing-grounds are covered by these craft, and whole fleets may be seen engaged in drawing up the finny inhabitants of the sea. Very many of these vessels anchor and fish within three miles of the shore. During the evening, they will enter the small bays and inlets, set their nets, and, by early dawn on the following morning, are seen moving off with the fish taken in the dark hour of night. Even farther, when they have been unsuccessful NEW BRUNSWICK. 277 in obtaining bait, they draw and unload the nets of the inhabitant. who, by remonstrating, are almost sure to have their nets afterward, overhauled or destroyed. Upon the slightest pretext, they take advantage of the humane in- tentions of the treaty, and enter the harbours, rivers, and creeks, to obtain wood and water. On such occasions they frequenUy set their nets on the shore, and anchor as near the land as safety will admit. Meanwhile their crews are actively employed in fishing. The vessels, sent out for the twofold object of fishhig and trading, boldly enter the harbour, into which they pour their casks of water! they have sprung a mast or boom— one of the crew is sick— or some disaster has happened, whereby they draw forth the sympathies of the inhabitants; but no sooner is the vessel safely moored, than a traffic commences. Green, salted, and half-dried fish are all taken for American goods; which being landed free of any Colonial duty, are given to the fishermen at a lower price than those obtained from the established merchant. The work of the smuggler is completed in a few hours ; and as he makes his visit at those periods when the fish are most plentiful, he generally departs richly freighted, leaving the flake, and salting-tubs of the shoremen empty. The fishermen of our shore, seldom resist these temptations, and they are often deceived by the declaration, that their accommodating visitors are true Englishmen. Should a British cruiser appear, or an officer with proper authority take cognizance of the act, some exigency, embraced by the terms of the treaty, are immediately brought to his notice, and duly supported by the solemn declaration of the crew; or if the vessel should be seized according to law, the matter becomes a subject of grave con- sideration between the two Powers, and, forsooth, a war may be threatened by the apprehension of a foreigner taken in the act of carry- ing on an illicit trade ! Thus the resources of the country are nefari- ously taken away, and the morals of its people corrupted by the intro- duction of practices which are abhorred by every honest inhabitant. The merchant who pays the duties on his goods, and advances them to the fishermen of his district under a promise of payment from the fruite of his labour, is defrauded, and the revenue of the Province is diminished, by an unlawful traffic. Again, many of our young men are 1 278 NKW BRUNSWICK. I fii enticed away, and the bounties offered by the Americans to their fisher- men are held out as a temptation for them to depart with their chary and cunning visitors. Such aggressions are not limited to any particular part of the coast, nor to the thinly-populated districts * Throughout the fishing season their vessels enter the harbours, and surround the Island of Gr Manan. They are scattered along the sho^:es of the Bay o un y, and enter the harbours, bays, and inlets of Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, Prince Edward’s Island, Magdalen Islands, and coast of Labrador, passing into the Gulf of St. Lawrence through the Strait of Canseau, which, to the distance of fifteen miles, is not to exceed a mile and a ha wide. Their vessels are very numerous in the Gulf, and occupy the best fishing stations on the banks between Prince Edward’s Island and New Brunswick, the Magdalen Islands and coast of Labrador, to the exclusion of British fishermen. In the summer season, they line the north coast of New Brunswick, enter the Bay Chaleurs with im- punity. and frequent the excellent fishing-ground at Miscon Island, and those of the Gaspe coast. As the Gulf and its bays are almost unprotected by cruisers, they not only fish upon the shores, and carry on an illicit trade, but sometimes drive the inhabitants away by force, take their bait, destroy their nets, and go on shore and plunder the harmless settlers.f Such are the operations of the Convention of 1818, which was, as an American fisherman compared it to the Writer, a net set by the British to catch the Yankees ; but the meshes were so large, that a fishing craft of a hundred tons burthen might pass through it without touching.” • On the 5tb of June last, an American fisherman was seized while lying at anchor “ inside of the lighthouse, at the entrance of Digby Gut, near the town of Digby, about a quarter of a mile from the shore, his nets lying on the deck still wet, with scales of herring attached to the meshes, and having fresh herring on board his vessel. The excuse sworn to was, that rough weather had made a harbour necessary; that the nets were wet from being recently washed, but that the fish were caught while the vessel was beyond three miles of the shore-**— Despatch of Lord Falkland, 1845. t See evidence taken by the Legislature, Appendix to Journals of the House of Assembly of Nova Scotia, 1837. NEW BRUNSWICK. 279 But the inquiry immediately arises, Why are not these aggressions prevented by our men-of-war and cruisers on the North American station ? To this it may be replied, that none but the smallest class of vessels are suitable for such a service, and of such there are but few employed on the coast. The whole length of the coasts to be guarded, including their bays and indentations, will exceed 2,000 miles, and therefore protection could scarcely be afforded, except by a large fleet of small vessels adapted for running into narrow estuaries and shallow bays. The^novements of a cruiser are well understood by an Ameri- can fisherman, who, when his vessel is boarded, has sufficient ingenuity, with the aid of the large meshes in the treaty, to get clear off.”* Yet In 1839, I had occasion to take passage in a small American mackerel fishing craft, from Eastport to Grand Manan ; and, in consequence of the vessel having struck a shoal of mackerel, I was detained twenty-four hours. The General Jackson ’ was filled to the hatches with salt, empty barrels, and provisions; along the deck were ranges of empty puncheons and casks, and for each man four mackerel lines, completely fitted, were attached to the inside of the bulwarks. The hook employed is about the size of that used in fishing for salmon, with a conical piece of pewter ingeniously cast on the shank, and kept bright by scouring with the dogfish skin. This is called a jig, and in the water resembles the small sepia, or a kind of shrimp, upon which the mackerel feed. Besides these jigs, there w ere a number of small iron rods, with a hook at the end of each, being attached to a long and light spruce handle. Nets are sometimes used. Several casks were filled with small her- ring and other fish, in a state of putrefaction — these are used for bait. There is a curious machine called the bait-mill, consisting of a cylinder studded with sharp pieces of iron, and turned in a box, also occupied with knives and wooden pegs. The bait is thrown into the box, the crank turned, and out of a spout comes the ground fish, which is called poheegari. While we were dashing along in a pleasant breeze, the crew were employed in preparing bait and cleaning the jigs. Happy in his prospects, one of the fishermen sang ‘‘Jim Crow,” and another chaunted, Come, little mackerel, come along, Come listen to the Yankee’s song; See, the day is fine, the cutter’s away, — Oh, come along and with us play.” After closely observing a large flight of gulls that hung over the water for some time, the old bronze-faced Captain spoke in a mild tone, “ Make no noise. Seth, haul the jib-sheet to windward. Aaron and Washington, small pull main-sheet. Steady, now!” The schooner now lay driving to leeward, at a ^80 NEW BRUNSWICK. they are occasionally taken, and compelled to submit to the law of the land. Strong remonstrances have been made from time to time by the different Legislatures to Her Majesty's Government, calling their atten- tion to the state of the fisheries. They have not, however, resulted in much improvement in the prevention of the evils complained of. A few fast-sailing schooners, properly equipped for the service, would soon repel the invaders of our rights. The Americans are far more successful in fishing than the inhabitants of the British Provinces, and supply their fish at a lower price than will remunerate our own people. This fact has its origin in a variety of circumstances. Their Government affords great encouragement to this branch of industry. A tonnage bounty is given to their fishing vessels, which secures the fisherman against any serious loss in the event of the failure of his voyage. He has also a privilege in the importation of salt, and is protected in his home-market by a duty of gentle rate, when a hogshead of poheegan was thrown into the sea, and soon covered the surface of the water with oil and small fragments of fish. The mackerel rose immediately, and formed a close shoal more than three miles in circumference. Scarcely a word was spoken; and, during three hours, all hands displayed the greatest activity in hooking, jigging, and drawing in the fish, which sported in millions around the vessel ; nor could I remain an idle spectator to the interesting scene. In an instant the mackerel disappeared, and the vessel was put upon her course, having her deck, cabin floor, and every unoccupied space covered with the dead and dying fish, the whole quantity of which was estimated at twenty-five barrels. This fishing took place within three miles of the northern head of Grand Manan. Before leaving the hos- pitable Captain, I inquired how he avoided the British cutter, then stationed on the coast? To which he replied, — ‘*Oh, we know how to work them critters to a shavin*. Don’t you see, there are about three hundred of us here ; every one of us has a little kind of a signal. When any one sees the cutter of your Woman King, up goes the signal; and when the fog is so thick you can cut it into square pieces with a splitting-knife, toot goes the cowhom, (these cowhoms are employed to wet the sails, and are called spouting-homs). You see, this island is twenty-five miles long; when the cutter comes to one eend, we go to t’other; and when she comes to t’other, we go to t’other. Why, friend, we bow-peep ’em.” My voyage terminated, I was landed by the Captain, who very politely offered me as many fish as he supposed I had taken during tbe passage. NEW BRUNSWICK. 281 five shillings per quintal on dry fish, and from one to two dollars per barrel on pickled fish. The duty imposed on American fish imported into the Colonies is much less, and no bounty is offered to their fisher- men, whose markets are limited and fluctuating.* In consequence of the great advantages afforded to the citizens of the United States by the treaties, and their ready mode of evading the stipulations of the convention, their whole system' of taking and curing fish has been rendered superior to that followed by the people of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. They have also the advantage of obtain- ing provisions at a much lower rate, a greater sea-going population, and, from long experience, a better knowledge of the most productive fishing-grounds. On the coast of the Eastern States, half-a-dozen “ neighbours ** will build a fishing-schooner during the winter, and send her out manned by a few young men, with an experienced captain and pilot. The proceeds of the voyage are divided among the whole company. If a merchant or any other person send out a vessel, he supplies nets, and the crew find provisions, hooks, lines, &c. On her return, the cargo, or ** catch,** is divided, each of the crew having the share agreed upon (usually five- eighths of the whole). Under these agreements, every man has a direct interest in the success of the enterprise, which stimulates him to ^ industry. Ihe crews of British fishing- vessels, although equally active, are most frequently hired by the month, and, consequently, they have less interest in the profits of the voyage. Nor is it a rare case that they become disheartened by the threats and insults heaped upon them by their more numerous rivals. To encourage the fisheries, it has been recommended to admit every article required for them duty-free — a privilege now granted by the Government of Nova Scotia, but one which has been found open to abuses little better than smuggling. A bounty on tonnage, or on every quintal of dry and every barrel of pickled fish, would be returned to the revenue by an increase of trade ; and the advancement of agricul- Dcspatch of the Governor of Nova Scotia to Lord Stanley, 1845, NEW BRUNSWICK. 28 ^ ture would supply the provisions now imported for the fishing part of the population. Many of the practices of the Americans, while they add nothing to their own interest, are calculated to destroy the inshore fisheries alto- gether. It is a very general practice for them to throw all the ofial of the fish they take overboard. When such offal is thrown into the sea at a distance of threer miles from the land or bays, and in deep water, the consequences are far less injurious than when it is cast overboard near the shore. With a knowledge of this fact, after the ofial of several days’ fishing has accumulated, the Americans wait a leisure time and throw it into the sea within the range of boat-fishing. The whole mass of “ garbage ” is immediately devoured by the fish near the land, and to which it is extremely destructive.* Nor will codfish take the baited hook freely at places where ofial has been thrown. By the practice of jigging mackerel, many fish are wounded and finally die, and the living ones always retire from the dead of their own kind. Many undue advantages are also taken of the Colonial fisher- men, who, from inferiority of numbers, are compelled to submit to threats and insults, and not un frequently to be driven away from their lawful inheritance.*!' The result has been, that French and American fishing-vessels are rapidly increasing in numbers, while the British fishermen are on the decline ; and if the encroachments of those two Powers are not speedily and efiectually checked, the subjects of Great Britain will be deprived of a most valuable branch of national industry, and the Government will discover when it is too late, that a most im- portant part of her Colonial resources has been taken away by the aggressions of foreign Powers. The fisheries of New Brunswick, if duly protected, and pursued with • The sharp bones of the spines and heads of fish, when taken by a living fish, penetrate the maw, produce diseases of the liver and death. Fish that feed on ofial are sickly and unfit for use. 1 have frequently taken white stones from the maws of healthy codfish, than which there is scarcely a more voraci- ous animal. t See Report on the Fisheries, Journals of the House of Assembly of Nova Scotia, 1837. NEW BRUNSWICK. 283 energy, would form one of the principal sources of her wealth and pro- sperity. The coasts, indented by numerous harbours, bays, and rivers, afford every facility for shore and deep-sea fishing ; and although the practices of the Americans have annually reduced the numbers of the finny tribes, they are still sufficiently numerous to render the employ- ment, under proper management, profitable. But, from causes already adverted to, the demand for timber, and a scanty population, the fisheries are not pursued with energy, and the fishermen lack the stimulus of the bounties given to the Americans, with whom they are unable to maintain a competition. The whole number of fishing- vessels belonging to the ports and harbours of the Bay-of-Fundy side of the Province, in 1840 , was only sixty-five. Their burthens were from ten to thirty tons each. The present number, including twenty belonging to Grand Manan, will not exceed seventy, exclusive of shore fishing-boats. That island alone, with a proper population, could employ advantageously one hundred, and the whole coast six hundred. The number of fishing-vessels be- longing to the United States, and fishing in the same waters, is as ten to one. The fishermen of the Province, with few exceptions, are far less persevering and industrious than the Americans, or even the people of Nova Scotia. The larger vessels fish for cod on the banks. The shore-fishing is carried on in boats : but they are often very imperfectly supplied with fishing-tackle, and the catch is limited. There is an annual decrease in the number of codfish along the shores, while the haddock are quite as plentiful as they were in former years — a circumstance arising from the fact that the “ garbage'’ thrown into the sea is more destructive to cod- fish than to haddock. Halibut, hake, and other kinds of fish, are taken by the baited codfish hook ; pollock are trailed for in swift water. Herring are taken in nets, but the greatest quantities are caught in Sweeps are also made by large seines. It frequently • These are circular enclosures of strong stakes, driven into the beaches near low-water mark, and interwoven with brushwood. At high-water they are covered by the sea. When the tide recedes, the fish are enclosed in the ware, and left dry. The enclosure is sometimes made with strong nets. NEW BRUNSWICK. 284 happens that a much larger quantity of herring are taken in a single tide than can be secured by the fishermen, or perhaps more than their stock will cure. In such instances, great quantities of dead fish are washed away, and which, with the olfal thrown into the water, are no doubt a great injury to the fisheries ; yet little attention is given to this abuse of one of the best temporal gifts of Providence. Five hundred and even one thousand barrels of herring are sometimes taken in one of these wares in a single night-tide. I have never known an instance on the shores of the Bay of Fundy, where the proprietors of one of these wooden cages were prepared to secure a large catch, or “ haul,” as it is frequently called. These wares, erected in the commencement of the fishing season in almost all the bays, harbours, and creeks^ are frequently leased to the Americans, who catch, cure, and smoke the fish upon the shores by the consent of the inhabitants, and in direct violation of the Treaty of 1783, and the Convention of 1818. In Passamaquoddy Bay, they fish for cod within a quarter of a mile from the British islands. The advan- tages of the people are thus sacrificed, often for small supplies of Ame- rican goods, which are called for by their pressing necessities, the offspring of their idleness, and the relinquishment of their rights. That the fisheries are capable of supporting an extensive trade, and of affording ample remuneration to individual exertion, is certain, from the success that always attends the labours of those who pursue them with activity and energy.* Many of the inhabitants of the coast and islands engage in the dif- ferent employments of agriculture, fishing, and lumbering; but, as * In 1839 (which was an unfavourable season for fishing), William Gubtail purchased for his son a boat of eleven tons burthen, for which he paid £100. With this small vessel, the son, wdth four men whom he had hired, not only cleared the expenses and purchase-money of tlie vessel, &c., but supported the whole of his father’s family during the whole of the winter. Between the months of May and October of 1840, he made three trips to the deep-sea fish- ing, and caught 250 quintals of codfish. Twice he went to the hen*ing fishing, and landed 170 barrels. He also made a third voyage for herrings. Thus, in less than six months, he cleared double the value of his vessel, paid his ex- penses, and supported his family . — Report on the Fisheries of the Bay of Fundy, by Captain Robb, K.N. 1840. St. John: Henry Chubb & Co. NEW BRUNSWICK. 285 might be expected, they are unsuccessful in each of those branches of abour They plant a few potatoes, and fish in boats during the sum- mer. In they embark for the forest, shoot, or remain idle. Many who take large supplies of fish during their season, are compelled to purchase them from the trader during the cold months at a high pnce. These observations wDl not, however, apply to the whole fish- ing population, of whom exceptions are to be made for a few individuals wio live comfortably, and have, by their industry, gained an honest in epen ence. The present degraded and unprofitable state of the fisheries has resulted from the violations of the convention by the American fishermen, who obtain bounties on fish taken and cured upon ntish shores, and the indifference of the coast settlers, who remain contented with a precarious subsistence, the result of idleness, rather than earn a comfortable competency. As natural consequences, poverty, and sometimes absolute misery, is too often seen among them, and t e resources of both the sea and the land are unproductive in their hands. Mackerel may be taken in the Bay of Fundy from the 1st of May to the middle of October. They are taken by hooks, or on jigs ; nets are seldom employed. Mackerel fishing is not followed with much enter- pnse, and is therefore seldom profitable. The principal shad fisheries 'are those of the St. John and Peticodiac. Salmon are taken in the small bays and large rivers in nets, or speared during the dark hours of the night. Shad and gaspereau are caught in nets. A fish called menhaden, which resembles a smaU shad, although plentiful, is not deemed profitable. Porpoises are shot by the Indians during the sum- mer for their oil. Lobsters and other shellfish are abundant. Whales are seen upon the coast at all seasons, but no attempts are made to cap- ture them. The Mechanics’ Whale Fishing Company, and C. C. Stewart, Esq., of St. John, are engaged in the whale fishery of the Pacific Ocean. The exports of whale oil from the Province average about 100,000 gallons, and of sperm oil 50,000 gallons, per annum. The fisheries on the north-east or Gulf-of-St. Lawrence coast of New Brunswick are not in a more prosperous state than those of the Bay of Fundy, except at Caraquette, which exports from 8,000 to 10,000 NEW HHUNSWICK. ik : 286 - , quintals of dry fish annually. The encroachments ^ trade of the American fishermen are even more danng on 0- .™ ofeod f«. Sh.,e-«.hlng. H.dao*^««A halibut are very numerous at certain seasons , immense shoals of herring. Caplin are someUmes carted on the field for manure. Salmon frequent all the rivers ; but since the erection saw-mills their numbers have decreased. Gaspereau an taken in the principal streams ; and sea trout enter the lagoons. Ickerel Ly ' e taken in the Gulf of St Lawrence jnd B^^ Chaleurs from May to October, and large catc es are m American fishermen. In summer the mackerel are , autumn they are remarkably fat and of large size, and other shellfish are plentiful. Oysters are shippe parts of the shore to Ouebec, Halifax, St. John, and °ther Plac^ ^ the early settlement of the country, walruses were taken, and y lecasLally seen. There are two varieties of seals. Whales pursue the fish into the Gulf during the summer, but no attempts are ma e a;lethem. From the rapid increase of population it would natur^y Jultthat theexportsof fish wouldbe enlarged; yet, fromcauses already adverted to, the fisheries advance but slowly, and unless t^^y a« PJ"’ tected by the Government, they will be altogether m the hands of the French and Americans. These inexhaustible maritime resources are neglected, and a general apathy prevails towards the improvement of those blessings Providence has so abundantly dispensed in the waters ""^Thetxportation of the produce of the British fisheries in 1830 was, of — .. •• 21177 barrels. BckUdfish.. .. .. .. .. •• _ „ c”, .. .. 4952 boxes. 5350 number. r -1 ” .... 12302 Gallons.* Fislioil • Colonial System, by Henry Bliss, Esq., p. 58. London, 1833. NEW BRUNSWICK. 28 1834. Dry cod, 26595 quintals Wet Cod, 693 barrels .. Herrings, 3653 boxes, 365 barrels , , Mackerel, 3014 banels * . , Salmon, 869 barrels Other sorts , . Train Oil . . . . , , Value £15188 „ 583 709 „ 2564 n 1787 „ 5564 „ 9577 Total £35972 1835. Fish, dried „ pickled ft smoked . . * Oil, Cod liver ,, Seal „ Whale .* Value £12894 „ 21269 » 1944 849 M 1088 „ 10988 Total £49032* 1839 Fish, dried, „ pickled, „ smokedj Oil, Whale, „ Sperm, ,, Cod, Whalebone, 23594 quintals 16656 barrels 6242 kits 14365 boxes . , 78327 gallons 15877 gallons 12827 gallons 236 cwt, . . Value £16227 ” }• 19812 I, 6054 » 7720 » 3969 •> 1727 „ 1323 Total £57632t * Colonial Tables, Murray, vol. ii. page 250. t In the Custom-house returns of the Outports of New Brunswick, the articles exported in 1839 are not specified ; the table therefore only refers to the ex- ports of the Port of St. John for that year. ^88 NEW BRUNSWICK. 1844. Pickled Salmon , • Smoked do. Mackerel Dried Fish . . • Alewives and Shads, salted.* • Codfish, pickled Herring, salted „ smoked . . * • • • • Seal Oil Cod Oil •• • 2479 hrls. 6419 kits. 406 boxes. 24 barrels. 12405 quintals. 16346 barrels. 214 „ 1754 „ 7308 boxes. 240 galls. 5744 „ The above return does not include the Port of St. Andrew’s and its outbays. 1845. Fish, dried, 8842 quintals . . „ salted, 17923 barrels*. * „ smoked, 10058 boxes . * „ oil, 71 barrels.* * Total Value It tt tt £5526 13444 2514 213 £21697 The Legislature of the Province have recently oflfered a small tonnage bounty on fishing-vessels ; but the whole sum granted for that object was too small to have any beneficial effect upon fishing industry, which will he observed to he on the decline. CHAPTER IX. COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY OF NEW BRUNSWICK. The safety and prosperity of all the Provinces mainly depend on the policy pursued by the parent country, or the perfection of the Colonial system. The history of the North American Colonies is remarkable or sudden and ruinous depressions in trade, and for speedy revivals, according as the Acts of the British Parliament have been favourable or unfavourable to their commerce. Instead of bounties and prohibitions, protecting duties are now sufficient to encourage Colonial industry, which, with enterprise and frugality, is capable of extending the na- tional power, civilisation, and happiness. Of late, the advantages of the Colonies have become more manifest, their resources better known and rendered more available. By the ingress of emigrants and the rapid increase of the native inhabitants, the population, although still very scanty, have begun to develop the physical advantages of the country, and, under a sound system of Colonial policy, will demon- strate the value of the Colonies to the great Empire. The shipping between Great Britain and her Colonies in British America at present exceeds the aggregate foreign shipping of Great Bntain with the whole of Europe. The population of Canada, New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia, in 1841, was about 1,300,000, and the immigration into those Colonies in 1842 was 54,123 souls. The united population may now be estimated at nearly 2,000,000. The total value of imports is equal to £4,000,000, and the exports upwards of £3,000,000.* • Simmonds’s Colonial Magazine, August 1845. # u 290 NEW BKUNSWICK. In the vast trade between Great Britain and her Possessions abroad. New Brunswick holds a conspicuous position. The navigation of the Atlantic by steam, and the increased facilities of communication, have already effected a change favourable to the Colonies ; and the happy results of the contemplated railway between Halifax and Quebec, ex- tending through the centre of New Brunswick, can scarcely be too lightly estimated : yet, to render the prosperity of the Provinces per- manent, and to make them a more powerful adjunct to the United Kingdom, their commerce must be protected, their fisheries kept free from the encroachments of foreigners, and their resources left unshackled by close monopolies. The interests of the people must also be united to their loyalty, which they are willing for ever to maintain. Thus will they form a wall of defence along the Arctic Continent that can never be thrown down, and a bond of union that cannot be broken ; nor would the breadth of a thousand Atlaiitics ever alienate their affections from the laws and institutions of the land of their forefathers. The commerce of the British Colonies was for a long time retarded by impolitic restrictions, and they were viewed as being only useful in the consumption of manufactured goods, and for certain natural pro- ductions, rather than for being a part of the Empire entitled to fair and equal advantages. Wiser views are now entertained, and relaxations in the restrictive, principle have been mutually advantageous to the parent country and her Transatlantic Possessions. Permission to ship timber and fish to the Mediterranean and West Indies was followed by the Act of 1825, by which the Colonies obtained the privileges in regard to trade that w’ere given to other parts of the kingdom. For some years the Provinces enjoyed an exclusive trade with the West India Islands, and until the Americans withdrew certain prohibi- tions which had, until 1830, excluded them from British ports in that quarter. Since that period, their commodities, fish excepted, were allowed to be imported into those islands. This circumstance caused an immediate decline in the "West India trade of the Colonies, which decreased in 1831 from 95,205 tons to 58,540 inwards, and from 95, 196 to 75,896 outwards. The American tonnage rose at the same time from 5,366 to 48,845 tons. The trade is still continued ; and were the fisheries free from foreign aggression, and improved by zeal and in- NEW BHUNvSWICK. clustry, it would rapidly increase, fish and lumber being the chief exports from the Provinces. The Continental System of France, up to 180C, and the American Non-intercourse Act of 1807, convinced the British Parliament that it was necessary to cherish enterprise and industry in the North American Colonies, in order to obtain those supplies which had been received rom foreign Powers, and which were ever liable to be withheld, or supplied at an exorbitant rate. After the struggles of war and many attacks upon her commerce. Great Britain had experienced the danger of foreign dependence; the Colonial system was restored, and the trade of the Provinces immediately revived. The timber trade with the Northern Colonies took its rise from these causes, and has been con- tinued with almost unabated vigour up to the present time, meeting with occasional checks from an over- supplied market, or the relaxations common to the commerce of all countries. The home trade affords the best and surest markets for the staple productions of the Provinces, whose inhabitants consume British ma- nufactured goods to a vast amount. The productions of one part of the Empire are now exchanged for those of another, and thereby the advan- tages are mutual. Any change in the present system would drive the Colonists to manufacture for themselves, and to withhold from the mother-country the necessary commodities now sent to her ports. The industry of the inhabitants of New Brunswick is therefore applied to agriculture, the fisheries, and lumbering. The valuable mines that have been discovered, have not yet been opened; nor is it probable that they will become objects of enterprise, until the exportable timber has been felled, and the capital necessary to work them has accumu- lated in the Province,— unless they should be taken up by persons in England. The trade of the Province is with the United Kingdom, the British North American Colonies and West India Islands, South America, the whale-fishery of the Pacific Ocean, Africa, the United States, St. Do- mingo, Porto Rico, and Cuba. The exports are timber, deals, boards and planks, shingles, staves, masts and spars, poles, handspikes, oars, lathwood, trenails ; dry, pickled, and smoked fish ; oil, oysters, lime, grindstones, and furs. NEW BRUNSWICK. 292 Next to husbandry in importance is lumbering, in which occupation the Province employs annually about 8,000 men. Almost the whole surface of the country is covered by the forest, which is only interrupted by cultivation along the hanks of some of the principal streams. The vast woods planted by the hand of Nature in the virgin soil supply to man a harvest where he has not sown, and afford him the means of procuring a subsistence before the earth is prepared to administer to his wants. Their beauty and grandeur at many places are beyond descrip- tion, and the solemn stillness of the wildeniess is calculated to strike the mind with awe and reverence. The lofty pine that has stood for ages, towering far above his indigenous associates, is leafless, except at the very summit. Although far superior in its dimensions, its trunk resembles the stately mainmast of a ship ; yet it bends before the gale, and waves its umbrella-shaped head to the passing breeze. Many of these trees are eighteen feet in circumference at their bases, and taper gradu- ally to the height of one hundred and fifty feet. In their fall, they crush down the smaller Wood ; and, by striking uneven ground, they are sometimes broken. The spruce, although lofty, is of smaller dimen- sions, and is recognised at any distance by his cone-shaped top and drooping branches. The foliage of the larch and hemlock is very beau- tiful. All these trees, with the fir and cedar, exceed in altitude the hard woods standing among them; their tops appear like an extra growth above the level of the forest. In the wilderness regions, the unwieldy moose still roams at large, and herds of deer wander over the pathless mountains, suffering no alarm except from the prowling wolf or hungry hear. The gloom of the deep forest and its scenery is relieved by its sweet songsters, espe- cially the yellow-winged sparrow, whose piping note is echoed among the hills. At night, in calm weather, every sound ceases, except the hoot-hoo of the owl,* and the terrific bowlings of droves of wolves, * In the winter of 1843, I presented a large white owl {Strix nyctea) to the lady of a military gentleman. It was duly caged, fed, and placed in the spa- cious hall of the mansion. During the first night of his confinement, he struck his wild notes, O ho, O ho. The gentleman, his family, and all the servants were soon alarmed, and called to quarters, under the supposition that daring robbers had entered some part of the house. As they paraded the hall ready NEW BRUNSWICK. 203 which, as he rests his weary limbs on the bed of cedar-boughs before the dying embers, brings apprehension to the stoutest-hearted traveller, and deprives him of his slumber. If he seize his gun, he is unable to discover his noctumd visitors, unless by the flashing of their eager eyes, which sometimes enables him to take a deadly aim. The low bellowing of the moose seems rather friendly, although their ignorant inquisitiveness at night is unfavourable to repose. These and other wild scenes are familiar to the lumberman, who spends the long and cold winter amidst the deep snows, to prepare timber for the British market. The whole expanse of the wilderness is claimed by the native In- dians as their rightful inheritance, and many persons have viewed the forest as being an impediment to agriculture and civilisation. But the lofty groves of massive trees supply materials for commerce, and the demands of refinement and luxury ; they afford the important articles timber and fuel, with juice yielding sugar ; the flesh and furs of their wild animals contribute both food and clothing to the human race, and the annual crop of leaves enriches the soil. Of the numerous forest-trees, we will here mention such as are at present employed for domestic uses, and form staple articles of export. Of the coniferous tribe, the white pine (^Pinus strohus), before described, constitutes the chief article of the timber trade. Formerly it was very abundant, and it is still procured in remote situations. Some trees are hewn to a length of eighty feet, and will measure eight tons and up- wards after they are squared. Much of this timber will command a market under any competition. Although it lacks strength, it is free from knots, and most easily worked by the mechanic. In the Colonies, it fonns the shingles, clapboards, doors, and wrindows of the exterior, and all the fine work in the interior of houses. From the great size of the trees, the boards are admirably adapted for pannelings, and every purpose where breadth is required. It receives a fine polish, and, w^hen well seasoned, is not liable to contract by being exposed to heat for action, they were saluted by O ho, O ho, which, to their great consterna- tion, was spoken by the owl. The lady soon gave the grave-looking bird away ; and after he had passed through several hands, he was liberated on account of his nightly orations, and permitted to return to his native woods. 291 NEW BRUNSWICK. or dryness. The pine of St. John has been considered superior to that from Quebec, and the Miramichi timber better than any other. At present, the wood brought down the St. John, from its large tributaries, is equal in quality to any ever shipped from the Province. Pitch pine {Pinus rigida) is a durable wood ; the trees are of mode- rate size, and generally grow on dry ground. The red pine, sometimes called yellow pine (^Pinus sglvestris), is from four to six feet in circumference near the ground, and grows tall. It appears to be identical with a variety of pine imported into Lngland from Norway. The wood is strong and durable, except the exterior portion of the tree, called the sap, which is generally removed by hewing. Hemlock {Pinus Canadensis) is a durable wood, but cracks much in “ seasoning it is therefore sawed into blocks, split, and shipped, for lath wood. Its hark is used for tanning, for which it is well adapted. It is very abundant, and its groves are the favourite resort of the por- cupine. Nails, when driven into hemlock, will not rust ; and beneath water, the tree and its bark are almost imperishable. Granaries built of this wood will not be entered by mice. Three varieties of the spruce are employed for various purposes. The black spruce {Pinus nigra) is a lofty tree, and its spear-shaped top rises far above the forest level. The essence of spruce is extracted from its leaves, and the branches are boiled in the domestic manufacture of spruce-beer. The wood is tough and elastic.— “The white and red spruces, so called from the colour of their barks, are of a similar cha- racter, except that they are not employed in brewing. The fir {Pinus halsamea) is also tall and of considerable diameter; hut the largest trees are frequently hollow, or decayed at the heart. It is very useful for making fences, and rives so easily that a log four- teen feet in length, and fifteen inches in diameter, is readily split into twelve pieces by two men with axes. It makes good staves for fish- barrels and lime-casks. The tree yields a white transparent balsam, applied by the inhabitants and Indians to fresh wounds. It is also taken in diseases of the chest. The larch {Pinus larix), or hackmatack, is a beautiful and lofty tree, seldom more than two feet in diameter. The wood is strong, and not 295 NKW BRUNSWICK. liable to decay.-The white cedar {Cnpressus thyoides) is also a fine tree, and the wood is exceedingly durable. At present it is not much employed, except for fencing and other domestic uses. There can be no doubt that it would make light and strong vessels. Oak IS scarce. Staves are sometimes made of the beech tree • but the principal supply is from black and white ash, which for ’their strength and flexibility are valuable woods. The young saplings of these trees are made into brooms ; yellow birch and white hazle are also employed for this purpose. Of the birches, the only kinds shipped are the yellow and black • and the exports of these are limited. The latter is a noble tree ; the wood receives a fine polish, and is much esteemed for tables and other furniture. It is also employed in ship-building. Of the maples, the Acer saceharinum is the most valuable, both for its wood, and its sap yielding sugar. The woody fibres are sometimes beautifully waved or curled; the curled and bird’s-eye varieties are admired for furniture. They receive as fine a polish as mahogany. The butternut and cedar are also used by the cabinet-makers. The wood of the wild cherry resembles the dark-coloured mahoganies. Witch-hazle, or hornbeam, and white and black thorn, are employed in agricultural implements. The felling and hewing of the timber for the British market are generally performed by parties of men hired by the timber-merchant or dealer for the purpose. In the autumn, they are despatched into the woods, with a supply of provisions, axes, horses, or oxen, and every- thing requisite for the enterprise. Their stores are conveyed up the larger streams, in tow-boats drawn by horses, or in canoes paddled by men ; and in w^inter they are transported over the ice. Hay for their teams is procured from the nearest settlements, and is frequently pur- chased at £6 per ton. The site for operations having been selected by the leader of the party, a camp is erected, and covered with the bark of trees. The floor of the shanty is made of small poles, and a sort of platform is raised for the general bed, wliich is composed of evergreen boughs or straw. The fireplace is opposite the sleeping-floor; and that part of the smoke that escapes, ascends through a hole in the roof. In this rude dwelling the food is cooked, and the lumbermen rest at night. NEW BRUNSWICK. 296 A hovel is also built for the oxen, and the hay secured against rain. The party is usually divided into three gangs : one cuts down the trees, another hews them, and the third draws the timber to the nearest stream. They begin their work at daylight in the morning, and seldom return to the camp until evening, when they find their supper prepared. During the night, the fire is replenished with wood by the cook and teamster ; and it is a common remark among them, that while the head is freezing, the feet are burning. I have passed several nights with these people in the backwoods, and always found them remarkably kind and hospitable. They are ever cheerful and contented ; and a more hardy, laborious, and active class of men cannot be found in any part of the world. Formerly, a certain quantity of rum was supplied to each individual ; but since the introduction of Temperance Socie- ties, the practice is less common. The avocation of the lumberman is not altogether free from danger. Many lives have been lost by the falling of trees, and the business of forking timber is sometimes very hazardous. In the mountainous districts, it is necessary that the timber should be conducted over the steep precipices and high banks along the bor- ders of the rivers. Having been collected on the tops of the cliffs, the square blocks are launched endwise, over rollers, either into the water below, or on the ice, which is frequently broken by the concussion. In its descent, the passage of the timber is occasionally arrested by trees or brushwood : the lumberman then descends, and, holding on to the brushes of doubtful foothold, he cuts away the impediments. This mode of launching timber is called “ forking,^’ — from which may have originated the substitution of the phrase “ forking over,” for the pay- ment of a debt, as expressed by some of the inhabitants. By the latter part of April, the melting ice and snow, wdth heavy rains, swell the streams and produce freshets. The lumbermen com- mence “ stream-driving.” The timber on the rivulets is now floated downw^ards to the deep rivers; each log is launched, and, when stranded, it is again rolled into the current — and their manner of urging the enor- mous pieces of pine over the rapids is alike creditable to their courage and patience. Still pushing the rafts of timber downwards, and moving with the current that daily transports the bark that covers their movable NEW BRUNSWICK. 297 camps stung by swarms of insects both day and night, these men possess more patience under their hardships and sufferings than those of any other class in the country. Half-a-dozen of them will frequently navigate the stream astride a log of timber, which they paddle along with their legs in the water ; and they will force the light skiff or canoe up a perpendicular fall of three feet, where the roaring of the water is truly deafening, and where there there is constant danger of being plunged into some whirlpool, or dashed against the rocks. Although they are frequently rendered giddy by the revolving motion of the eddies, they fix the poles upon the bottom, and move away against the foaming torrent, or cross the stream on slippery blocks of pine. Such IS the force of habit, that these men view the forest as their home, and the river as their turnpike : constantly exposed to the inclemency of the weather, and the water of the rivers, they appear contented, and seem to regret when the labour of the season is ended. In situations where the water is more tranquil, a singular spectacle is sometimes pre- sented : each of the drivers mounts a log or piece of timber, and, with their pikes in hand, the party move along like a floating regiment, until some fall or rapid warns them to re-embark. Not unfrequently, a rapid is blocked up with timber in such quantities, that it refuses to pass. This is called a “jam.** The clearing away of these jams is the most dangerous part of the stream-drivers* employment, and who are sometimes thrown down a fall or rapid into the boiling pool beneath. The quantity of timber in one of these drives is enormous ; its pro- gress along the river where the timber gets entangled among the rocks is therefore slow, especially when the summer is advanced, and the volume of the water consequently diminished. In order to deepen the water, “wing dams** are sometimes constructed on the sides of the most troublesome rapids. The depth and velocity being thus increased the floating timber passes along more readily : but these dams greatly impede the passage of canoes in ascending the streams. Like the em- ployment of the sailor, the work of the lumberman is peculiar; he requires much practice and experience ; and it may be safely asserted, that should any unfavourable change take place in the home timber trade, thousands of men will be thrown out of employment, who have 2DS MEW BRUNSWICK. as little disposition to engage in agriculture as those who have been employed as sailors or fishermen. The timber and logs having been collected, are formed into large flat rafts, and floated down to their place of shipment, or to saw-mills, where the logs are manufactured into deals, boards, planks, &c. The lumber- men then receive their pay, which they too often spend in extravagant festivity, until the period arrives when they again depart for the wil- derness : yet there are many who take care of their money, purchase land, and finally make good settlers. Timber is collected by farmers, new settlers, and squatters, who also procure great numbers of logs for the saw-mills ; but the greatest supplies are brought down by the lumbermen from the interior forests. Mills for the manufacture of timber have greatly multiplied within a few past years. The removal of the exterior parts of the logs, by saws, is favourable to the preservation of the wood, and by it a great saving is effected in the freight. The saws, however, are chiefly ap- plied to spruce, while the pine is shipped in squared logs. Value. Persons employed. In 1831, the number of saw-mills was 229 £320,030 3,798 1836, — — — 320 420,000 4,200 1840, — — — 574 740,000 7,400 1845, — — — 640 900,000 8,400 The present flourishing state of the trade has arisen from the high duties imposed on Baltic timber. In 1791, when the export of timber from New Brunswick had only commenced, the duty on Baltic timber was only 6s. 8d. per load ; that duty was gradually raised, and in 1812 amounted to £2 14s. 8d. per load. In 1820 it was £3 5s. per load ; but in 1821 it was reduced to £2 15s., and, for the first time, a duty of 10s. per load was laid on American timber.* By the financial system of Sir Robert Peel introduced into Parliament in 1842, it was proposed to reduce the duty on foreign wood to 30s. on squared timber, and 35s. per load on deals, according to their cubic contents ; and after one year, to make a farther reduction to 25s. and 30s. respectively, and to levy Is. a load upon timber and 2s. a load on Colonial deals. The Report on Timber Trade. NEW BUUNSWICK. 5299 tidings of this movement were met in the Province by strong petitions and remonstrances against the measure, which was afterwards carried by a large majority, with a change in favour of Colonial deals of 2s. per load of 50 cubic feet; the duty on foreign being 38s., and on Colonial 2s. This change in the timber duties took place on the 10th of October following, and the apprehensions of its injurious effects upon the trade of the Colonies have proved to be groundless. The removal of all duty on Baltic timber would almost annihilate the Colonial trade. The effect of these duties has been very manifest in the trade between the two countries, as will appear by the following table. Cargoes of Timber, &c. from British America and the Baltic for last 12 years. British America. Baltic. Year end- ing Feb. 1, Vessels. Tonnage. Vessels. Tonnage. 1835 335 117996 94 27394 1836 420 163284 102 29545 1837 328 143481 66 18900 1838 275 135072 63 19000 , 1839 302 160294 72 23116 1840 339 170591 58 17415 1841 230 133400 48 14000 1842 318 174948 40 11923 1843 165 91179 32 11239 1844 311 154518 61 17253 1845 369 189414 51 14144 1846 453 239854 112 33792* The eq^ualisation of the duties on timber has afforded a subject of much discussion and debate— and certainly the gradual extension of the principles of free trade is very desirable : at present the British consumer is paying a higher price for his timber than it would be sup- plied for if the duties on foreign timber were removed. The import- ance of the article for ship-building, machinery, and the ordinary pur- poses of life, for which vast quantities are required, form a strong argu- Rcports on British Commerce, 1846. 300 NEW BRUNSWICK. ment in favour of allowing it to be imported from all countries duty- free ; yet it must be conceded that, under the present Colonial system, a great amount of capital has been invested in the erection of saw-mills and machinery, which would be rendered almost valueless by a sudden reduction in the protective duties of the British Colonial subject. Many thousands of men would also be deprived of employment ; and although some of them would engage in agriculture, a great number of this part of the labouring population would depart for the United States. Ihe Colonial trade, as it now exists, trains a great number of hardy seamen, who in any emergency would be ready for defence or conquest. The consumption of British manufactured goods is also far greater in the Colonies than it would be in a decline of the timber trade, which now enables the inhabitants to pay not only for the necessaries, but likewise for many of the luxuries of life. The timber trade has been the handmaid of emigration ; and although the greater number of immigrants into New Brunswick by the timber ships depart for the United States, the few that remain are greatly aided in the settlement of wild lands by the ready market created by the lumberman and timber-dealer. The changes of duty on the Baltic timber, and the high prices given in Great Britain, in 1824, gave rise to great speculations.* The market was soon overloaded with Colonial ships and timber. The result was, that the price of wood fell one-half — many persons were ruined, and the roost cautious merchants sustained severe losses. The exports of timber and ships at the present time are merely remunerative, and any unfa- vourable change in the duties would be disastrous to the whole trade. Value of the Exports of Wood in 1835. Squared timber .. £291,817 Boards 13,437 Deals .. .. 104,150 Staves 12,969 Shingles 1,905 Handspikes . . 52 Oars . . 478 Lathwood 4,966 Trenails 157 Spars . . 94 Total sterling .. £430,023 NEW BRUNSWICK. 301 The following arc the exports of wood from St. John in 1839. In the returns from the outports, the quantity shipped is not spe- cified. Value. Squared timber . . .. 255, frir tons .. .. Boards . . 0,622 ms. feet . . 16,641 Deals . . 75,969 do. do. , . .. 189,252 Staves .. 1,858 thousand .. 8,318 Shingles . . 4,504 ditto 3,346 Handspikes . . . . 2,474 n» Oars .. 6,715 n® Lathwood • . . . 4,095 cords 'k Sawed Laths . . .. 129 thousand i 4,282 Masts and Spars .. . . 8,864 n® 2,407 Ship-knees 538 If’ Total sterling . , .. £502,076 • For 1845 — Squared timber . . .. 244,84610113 .. .. O/I *440 Boards - 10,537,000 feet Deals 127,860 ms. feet .. . . 319,650 Staves .. 1,008 thousand .. 4,.530 Shingtfes . . 8,371 ditto 6,278 Oars .. 2,117 no. .. . 1 Lathwood . . 4,206 cords \ 4,342 Sawed Laths . . .. 1,805 thousand) Masts and Spars . . . . 2,602 n° Total sterling .. The following is a comparative statement of the number of vessels entered inwards from and cleared outwards for Great Britain, British Colonies, the United States 1, and Foreign States, at St. John, in the years ended 30th September, 1841, and 1842, with their tonnage and men ; — Custom-liouse Returns, 1840. i !i I t 30 !^ NHW BRUNSWICK. Great Britain. British ! United Colonies States. For. Sts. Total Vessels. Tonnage. Men. Inwards. In 1841 439 1469 317 31 2256 299518 14283 In 1842 275 1212 254 21 1762 221050 12643 Less in 1842. . . . 164 257 63 10 494 79368 1640 Outwards. In 1841 671 1522 227 4 2424 352306 16114 In 1842 427 1199 220 9 1855 257395 12421 Less in 1842.. .. 244 323 7 .. 569 94911 3693 More in 1842 •• •• •• 5 • • • • • * Comparative Value, in Sterling, of the Imports and Exports in the Years ending 30th September, 1841, and 1842. Great Britain. North America. West Indies. Else- where. United States. Foreign States. Total. Imports. £ £ £ £ £ £ £ In 1841 718067 251508 1340 236 213911 16674 1201736 In 1842 214484 145505 1773 685 137456 4896 504799 Less in 1842. . 503583 106003 . . .. 76455 11778 696937 More in 1842 . . .. 433 449 • • •• •• Exports. In 1841 461020 90816 19524 83 15905 3740 591088 In 1842 280840 59116 15711 3260 23441 1259 383627 Less in 1842. . 180180 31700 3813 .. .. 2481 217461 More in 1842 •• •• •• 3177 7536 •• •• New Vessels. Tonnage. No. New. Old. New Ships registered in 1841 .. 118 48,779 46,166 Ditto ditto in 1842 .. 73 19,282 19,018 Less in 1842 . . .. 45 29,497 27,148 f. — NEW BRUNSWICK. Ship-buildiiig has been followed with much spirit, and still forms an important branch of industry in New Brunswick. An opinion has prevailed in Great Britain, and not without just foundation, that the ships built in the Province are imperfectly constructed and insufficiently fastened. Ships are frequently built by contract for from £4 to £7 per ton ; the result has been that many of them have not been faithfully and substantially put together, and the discovery of their imperfections has injured the reputation of all the vessels of the Colony. Since 1840, a successful effort has been made to improve the ship-building, and the vessels now built by the merchants under proper inspection are equal. If not superior, to any ever launched. The abundance and good quality of the wood give New Brunswick an advantage in the building of ships and other vessels. The total tonnage of the Province did not exceed in 1782 . . 250 tons: the tonnage of St. John in 1795 was 4,000 „ 1824 „ 16,000 „ 1836 „ 59,663 „ I„ 1835, the total tonnage of the Province was 80,876 tons: in 1839, the tonnage of St. John alone was 80,830 tons, exclusive of the outports ; in 1845, it was 71,843 tons — of Miramichi, 6,182 tons. The number of new vessels registered at St. John, In 1831, was 48, measuring 1836, „ 75, „ 23,010 „ ,, Built for owners in Great Britain 6 1,669 „ „ Built at Miramichi . . , , g 3 147 lotal 27,826 „ In 1839, 108 new vessels were registered at St. John : of these, 22 were built in Nova Scotia. Total tonnage, 30,576 tons. Built at Miramichi, 26 vessels : tonnage, 9,827 tons. Total of new vessels at St. John and Miramichi, 40,199 tons. In 1841, 85 ships were built in the Province-33,991 tons. The number of new vessels registered at St. John and Miramichi the year ending 31st December, 1845, was, vessels, 77 ; 27,446 tons. NEW BRUNSWICK. 304 Excepting the mills and machinery employed in sawing wood, the manufactories may all be called domestic, as none of their productions are exported. The iron and coal employed in the foundries are im- ported from Great Britain, notwithstanding both of these articles are abundant in the Province. The operations of the foundries are con- fined to the manufacture of such articles as are required by the country. The number of grist-mills in the Province in 1840 was 247. Besides these, there are a few machines, of simple construction, for carding wool and fulling cloth. In the larger towns, there are breweries, tanneries, and small establishments for making soap and candles ; but the tables of trade show, that the exports being the productions of the Province are objects in their natural state, or such as have only under- gone the preparatory process of manufacture. Mining scarcely forms any part of Provincial labour, even since the more perfect development of the mineral wealth of the country by a geological survey of a part of the Province. Lumbering and the tim- ber trade continue to bind the capital and enterprise of the country. New Brunswick contains great mineral w^ealth ; coal and iron are abundant : besides these, manganese, copper, lead and other ores have been discovered, and limestone, gypsum, and freestone, of the best kinds, occur in certain districts ; yet the home consumption and ex- portation of those objects are extremely limited. Manganese has been exported to England from Gloucester, and from Quaco to the United States. Small quantities of coal are raised annually on the borders of the Grand Lake for the supply of Fredericton, and small cargoes are sometimes sent down to St. John. The principal exports of gypsum, freestone, and grindstone, are made from Westmoreland to the United States. — Exports of rocks and minerals in 1830. Gypsum and limestone Grindstones . . Lime Manganese 1,748 tons. 14,437 number. 550 hhds. 137 cwt. 1836. Gypsum Grindstones Lime . . « • . . • . Coals . . Limestone 1,015 tons. 250 „ 805 hhds. 12 chaldrons. 90 tons. NEW BRUNSWICK. 305 Gypsum Grindstones Lime .. Gypsum Grindstones Lime . • 1839. 1845 7,991 tons. 1,182 „ 858 hhds. 2,034 tons. 657 „ 1,369 hhds. Of the produce of agriculture the Province makes no export, but, on the contrary, imports largely from the United States, Great Britain, and the Colonies. The imports of potatoes and other vegetables into St. John ill 1839 alone were 163,671 bushels. This may seem an extraordinary fact, especially as the soil has been represented to be fer- tile and favourable for tillage ; but it is in part the result of the timber trade, which has taken away the bone and muscle from husbandry, and rendered it incapable of supplying the rural population, the towns, lumbering parties, and fishermen. The state and produce of the fisheries have been treated of in a pre- vious chapter. Among the exports we find horns of cattle, furs, hides, and bricks. The table of exports contains many articles that had been previously imported ; but a much greater amount is always brought in than is shipped away, and, including the staple articles of fish and lumber, the former greatly exceeds the latter. Imports and Exports at the Port of St. John in the year 1782. Imports. Linens .. 2 trunks Oysters Exports. 1 barrel W oollens .. 5 packages Fire-arms . . 1 chest Raisins .. 1 cask Wheat 31 bushels Glass .. 3 boxes Pease 41 „ Tin ware .. 1 box Beaver skins 222 lbs. Brimstone .. 1 cask Musquash skins 767 No. Cider .. 24 barrels Racoon skins 13 „ Do. .. .. 7 hogsheads Salt .. 100 bushels Apples .. 327 bushels Rum . . , , 238 gallons Tobacco .. 330 lbs. Wine 40 „ Do. • • 8 barrels Turpentine .. 7 barrels Do. • • 1 hogshead Glass 1 box Turpentine . . 16 barrels Tobacco 350 lbs. Rum . . .. 40 barrels Indian corn . . 664 bushels Do. .. .. 4 hogsheads Do. do. 2 casks Brandy •• 40 gallons Cod fish 7 quintals NEW BRUNSWICK. 306 Imports and 'E^^or\s— continued. Imports. VTine Molasses Do. Cod fish Iron . . Leather Sugar Cordage Tea .. Twine Indigo Flour Scythes Hoes.. Pewter English goods Salt . . Grindstones. . Onions Bricks Axes . • Scythe handles Pork . . Pease Oats . . 75 gallons 5 barrels 1 hogshead 32 cwt. 800 lbs. 10 sides 58 cwt. 4 coils 1 chest 2 bundles 1 box 6 bags 49 No. 26 „ 1 cask 4 trunks 53 bags 44 No. 100 bushels 300 No. 6 „ 24 „ 5 barrels 2 bushels 4 „ Exports. Buckwheat.. 22 bushels Hides Sheep Oxen English goods Scythes Hoes.. Axes 4 No. 104 „ 26 „ 1 Trunk 48 No. 12 „ 12 „ Clapboards .. 1,500 feet Pewter Cross-cut saws Grindstones Potatoes Cabbages . . Old iron Rum .. Moose skins Steel . . Merchandise Beef . . I cask 9 No. 28 „ 4 hogsheads 100 heads 1 hogshead 1 tierce 25 No. , 1 faggot 13 packages 12 quarters Household furniture | An Account of Vessels entered and cleared at the Port of St. John Rosanna Entered. Tons. 17 Cleared. Rosanna Tons. 17 Betsy . . 10 Pef?gy 8 Escape 10 Betsy .. 10 Polly . . 10 Escape 10 Sally . . 10 Polly . . 10 Lark . . 18 Sally . . 10 Ranger 12 Lark . . 18 Prosperity 10 Ranger 12 Unity .. 10 Prosperity 10 Speedy 7 Unity 10 Little Tom « . . . 30 Little Tom . . 30 Total tonnage 144 Managuash . . Total tonnage 20 165 * From Uie first record of the Customs at St. John, supplied by James White, Esq., High Sheriff of St. John, and son of James White, Esq., who was the first Collector of Customs at that port. 1 NEW BRUNSWICK. 307 •e imports into the Province are various, and, besides all kinds of provisions, t ey include the necessaries and many of the luxuries of re ne society, hrom the slow advance of agriculture, the Province is in a great degree, dependent upon the United States and the neigh’ bounng Colonies for bread. The imports of « bread stuffs” in 1834 rcringth*'' £228,655, which, after de- ducting the exports-£25,839, leaves the consumption for the latter year of bread kind, £202,816. ^ ^ fol;. I'””" Th. ™pom i„ .839 wi „ Amount £1,433,474 0 0 »> 46,513 0 0 « 14,034 0 7 »> 5,500 8 4 » 11,962 10 0 £1,511,483 18 11 Extracts or Imports and Exports at the Port of St. John and Outbays for the year 1845. Into St, John . , tf St. Andrew’s tf St. Stephen’s ,, Magaguadavic tf Welchpool ., Flour wheat Rye flour. . Com meal Bread . , Indian corn Wheat .. Hye Oats Pork, salted Beef „ Rice Meats, fresh Butter and chees Coffee Dried fniits Tea Sugar refined Salt Tobacco, manufa n leaf Imports. 63,171 barrels 12,756 „ 40,632 „ 5,144 cwt. 50,322 bushels 263,752 „ 2,226 „ 78,664 „ 11,885 barrels 2,661 „ 1,881 cwt. 488 „ hsn „ 1,424 „ 1,907 „ 502,686 lbs, 14,565 cwt, 1,679 „ 318,056 bushels 32,036 cwt. 343 .. Flour wheat ft rye Indian meal Beef and pork Rickers . . Butter and cheese Trenails .. Tea.. .. Sugar „ refined Salt Furs Fish, dried „ salted „ smoked M oil . . Tobacco, manufa Hides Soap Wine Brandy , Exports. 5,263 bushels 1,976 „ 1,133 „ 2,614 „ 5,113 „ 123 cwt. 64 mds. 21,430 lbs. 1,793 cwt, 401 „ 107,151 bushels 33 packages 8,842 quintals 17,923 barrels 10,058 boxes 71 barrels 807 cwt. 13,605 „ 333 „ 2,428 gallons 563 „ X 2 Brandy . . Geneva . . • • Rum Whisky . . Ale and porter . . Molasses . . Cider Vinegar . . Earthenware Glass manufactures Oakum .. Cordage . . Sailcloth .. Deals Trenails . . Dyewoods . . Wooden ware .. Iron, wrought, un-' wrought, cast, and pig Copper . . Lead Nails Hardware Gypsum .. Naval stores Coals Paint „ oil .. Indigo Hemp Guano 32,870 76,968 11,167 25,525 348,575 94,380 19,935 „ 2,266 crates 1,939 cwt. 3,688 „ 16,132 „ 347,318 yards 3,480 feet 92,000 „ 140 cwt. 7,893 dozens 5,333 tons 1,554 cwt. 1,012 „ 6,607 „ 11,830 „ 2,165 tons 1,032 baiTels 20,191 chaldns. 3,226 cwt. 21,395 gallons 18,117 lbs. 3,467 cwt. 412 tons Geneva . . Rum Whisky . . Molasses . . Cordage . . Oakum . . Sailcloth .. Oil, black whale sperm Timber . . Boards Deals Staves Shingles . . Oars Lathwood Laths, sawn Masts and spars Iron Copper . . Nails, iron Gypsum .. Grindstones Naval stores Coals Paint » oil Lime 1,735 . 7,806 1,435 . 28,338 883 207 . 14,940 63,954 . 13,370 . 244,846 10,537,000 . 127,860 yards gallons tons feet 1,008 8,371 2,117 4,206 1,805 2,602 21,864 111 729 2,034 657 243 2,011 116 1,046 1,369 cords mds. bushels chaldns. cwt. gallons hhds. Total official value of Imports Do. do. Exports £1,050,794 0 0 £723,094 0 0 In 1835, the entries of vessels inwards at the Port of St. John and its outbays were 2,467 ; number of tons, 298,993 ; number of men, 14,467. Outwards: 2,261 vessels ; 322,200 tons ; 14,556 men. NEW BRUNSWICK. 309 An Account op Vessels entered Inwards and cleared Outwards at the Port of St. John and its Outbays in the year ending 5th January, 1837. Imwabds. Outwards. Vessels. Tons. Men. Vessels. Tons. Men. Great Britain 467 142396 605 193724 British Colonies 1773 100220 • • • • 1638 89380 United States 292 43225 t • • • 141 14488 Foreign States 17 3789 .... 5 535 .... Total 2549 289610 14091 2389 298127 136.^5* The same for the year ending 5th January, 1840. • Inwards. Outwards. Vessels Tons. Men. Vessels Tons. Men. United Kingdom . . . . 540 198034 7805 770 270935 10270 Guernsey and Jersey. . 2 131 14 2 147 13 Brit. West Indies . . . . 41 7163 330 62 9278 468 Brit. N. A. Colonies .. 1595 81984 5421 1482 71964 4999 Foreign Ships .. .... .... 4 553 23 Foreign Europe 23 6168 226 1 112 9 British Africa . . .... .... 1 121 8 U. States, Brit. Ships. . 287 35397 1&31 196 15421 1049 Foreign Ships 93 11778 490 87 11046 464 Cuba 7 739 46 Porto Rico 3 507 21 • • . • St. Eustacia 2 230 16 .. Brazil 1 280 14 • • . • St. Andrew’s 198 24476 • • • • 181 24179 St. Stephen’s 155 17679 806 144 20552 1041 Magaguadavic 50 9324 • • • • 82 10914 Welchpool 180 7278 576 174 5973 520 Total 1 1 3177 401068 17586 3186 441195 18864^ " Notitia of New Brunswick. f Custom-House Returns for 1840. 310 NEW BRUNSWICK. Number of Vessels entered Inwards and cleared Outwards for the year ending 31st Dec. 1845. IkWARDI. OUXWARDi. Vessels. Tons. Vessels. Tons. 2,455 390,792 2,434 425,638 The ordinary revenue of New Brunswick is derived from imports, generally moderate, on goods imported from all countries. A peculiar feature in the Provincial Tariff, is the taxation of the productions of the Sister Colonies. Besides large quantities of deals, staves, and other wood. Nova Scotia sends great quantities of beef, potatoes, apples, cider, and other agricultural produce, to St. John, which has heretofore afforded a market for such articles. Wood has generally been per- mitted to enter duty-free, while agricultural commodities are taxed ; even eggs, which are shipped in great numbers from Digby, have been made the objects of duty, and the counting of barrels of the ovarious articles by the officers of the revenue has given rise to some very ludi- crous scenes. Previous to 1785, the two Provinces were united, and no sound argument can be found for a system which produces many evils, besides engendering smuggling. Upon the principle of retaliation, the Nova Scotia Authorities, in 1843, laid a poll-tax upon every person landing in the Province from New Brunswick. Such taxes are calculated to disturb the friendly feelings of the Colonists towards each other, and lead to evasion of their laws. Besides the revenue arising from duties on imported goods, the Pro- vince receives a large annual sum from the disposal of Crown timber and lands. In 1837, a Bill passed the different branches of the Legis- lature, to provide for the Civil Government of the Province. After much negotiation with the Home Government, this Bill received the Royal sanction, whereby the King’s casual and territorial revenues were surrendered to the Province, whose people agreed to pay an adequate Civil List. The sum transferred by this measure from the Crown to New Brunswick was no less than £171,224, exclusive of the succeeding annual income from the above source. In 1830, the amount of this revenue was only £5,600 ; in 1835 new BRUNSWICK. 311 it was £46,000; in 1837. £31,832; in 1839. £18,154; in 1840. £24,299; and m 1845, £11,705 10s. 4d. Notwithstanding the large sum that was thus placed at the disposal of the Legislature by the transfer of the Crown revenues, such was the system of extravagance followed by the House of Assembly, and every ranch of the Colonial Government, that the whole sum, with the annual revenue of Uie Province, was soon swallowed up, and the country involved in liabilities it was altogether unprepared to meet. Some just claims remain unpaid up to the present day. On the 31st day of December, 1842, the financial state of the Province was as follows: Total amount of liabilities , , liStiinated value of assets . . Balance against the Province Amount of urgent demands Available assets .. ,, Balance of urgent demands . • By another statement — The total existing demands for 1843 were And the excess of demands . . , , £162,571 13 3 87,905 12 2 £ 74,666 1 1 £115,969 8 6 35,128 0 0 £80,841 8 6* £148,582 18 2 77,212 18 2 Under these unpleasant circumstances, it was necessary to obtain a loan, the amount of which, from an increase of the ordinary revenue, has been reduced, and the liabilities of the Province diminished. The following is a statement of the finances of the Province, 1st January, 1846 ; — Debts. Warrants in the Treasury not called for . . Appropriations for which warrants have not passed Due to Savings Bank . . , , Debentures for loans, and interest thereon Balance of Province Loan .. £9,460 0 5,746 17 20,000 0 16,786 0 72,000 0 Total Debts . £123,992 17 6 Journals of the House of Assembly, 1843. p. 56. 312 NEW BRUNSWICK. Assets. Bonds for loans and interest St. John Water Company’s bonds . . Balance due Bank of New Brunswick . . Balance at Outbays £12,362 0 0 .. 6,000 0 0 .. 18,493 16 2 7,363 17 7 £43,219 13 9 Amount of Debts per Treasurer’s Accounts . . £80,773 3 9* In exchange for the Queen’s revenues, the Province grants the full payment of the Civil List, or £14,500 per annum. The ordinary revenue of the Province in 1830 was 1831 „ 1832 „ 1833 „ 1834 „ 1835 „ 1837 „ 1838 „ 1839 „ 1840 „ 1841 „ 1842 „ 1843 „ 1844 „ 1845 „ £49,670 0 0 28,196 0 0 37,518 0 0 35,661 0 0 45,220 0 0 60,316 0 0 51,988 0 0 65,439 0 0 84,289 0 0 109,942 17 7 110,983 10 9 55,904 2 0 59,498 13 Oi 92,333 14 2 127,753 1 9if * Journals of House of Assembly, 1846, p. 53. t The following table shows the sources from which the revenues are de rived : — Abstract of the Revemues of New Brunswick for five years, ending 31st December, 1845. 1341. 1842. 1843. 1844. 1845. £ s. d. £ s. d. £ s. d. £ 8 . d. £ 8 . d. Loan Fund 1304 19 6331 11 1 8631 12 2i Ordinary Revenue.: 65205 14 9 19426 5 2 24998 8 40147 12 7 53668 18 10^ Export Duty ... 8675 7 0 20162 9 10 Casual Revenue 21974 12 0 17847 15 6 11980 0 0 8378 15 7 11705 10 4 Reed, from H.M.^s Customs 25764 18 8 11905 17 4 14322 2 9 21519 18 25304 14 9 Auction Duties 763 16 5 271 24 9 540 17 10 615 17 403 1 1 Passenger Duties 1762 0 10 1954 14 2 342 6 8 567 5 10 1372 6 8 Lighthouse Duties 3675 17 3 3033 15 7 4083 4 5 4444 17 10 4454 19 8 Sick & Disabl. Seamen’s do. 1836 10 10 1464 11 6 1926 13 H 1652 8 5 2049 8 H Totals 110983 10 9 55904 2 0 59498 13 oi 92333 14 2 127753 1 H NEW BRUNSWICK. 313 Formerly, the Legislature complained that they had not enough power over the revenues of the country, and in 1837 Delegates were sent to England to represent their grievances. In that year all cause of complaint was removed, and the resources of the Province were put under the control of the Legislature. Large grants are made annually for the construction and repairs of roads and bridges. The remaining part of the funds is applied to education and other branches of Colonial improvement. This settlement of a vexed question was called “ a boon to the country and so it really was, until, by the treaty of Lord Ash- burton, a valuable part of the Province, and its chief timber districts, were given away to the Americans. Since that period, it has been pro- posed to call upon the Imperial Government to be reimbursed for the loss. From having gained a full treasury, a high degree of extrava- gance followed, until the Province became involved in debt and diffi- culty : but since 1843, there has been more care and economy, and with an increase of trade the Colony is rapidly advancing. The increasing commerce of the Province has been accompanied with much enterprise. Between 1835 and 1840, Joint-stock Companies were formed, whose united stocks amounted to £2,000,000. It is true, that of these Companies, not all have gone into operation ; yet some of them have made extensive improvements. The Banks of St. John are — Capital Stock. The Bank of New Brunswick £100,000 Commercial Bank 150,000 City Bank 50,000 Branch Bank of British North America, of . . 1,000,000 Of St. Andrew’s — St. Andrew’s Bank £15,000 Fredericton — Central Bank £35,000 Branch of Bank of British North America. St. Stephen’s — St. Stephen’s . . . . £25,000 Branches have been extended to Miramichi and Woodstock. No 314 NEW BRUNSWICK. interest is allowed on deposits ; but, as the stock is worth 6 per cent., capital may be safely invested. The Local Insurance Companies are very respectable. They are, at St. John — The New Brunswick Fire Insurance Company New Brunswick Marine Insurance Company . Fredericton Central Fire Insurance Company . Capital. £50,000* 50,000 50,000 Agencies for these and some of the London and United States Offices are established in different parts of the Province. There are a number of Companies for other objects : of these, we may mention Capital. The St. John Water Company £20,000 St. John Mechanics’ Whale-fishing Company .. 50,000 St. John Mills and Canal Company .. .. 40,000 St. John Mills and Manufacturing Company .. 20,000 At St. John, there is a Chamber of Commerce, composed of a number of active merchants and shipowners. This Board watches with a careful eye over the vicissitudes of trade, and communicates with the Govern- ment on subjects connected with the commerce and general improve- ment of the country. * Now dissolved. CHAPTER X. POPULATION, AND RELIGIOUS, SOCIAL, AND POLITICAL STATE OF NEW BRUNSWICK. The population of New Brunswick has increased, perhaps, more rapidly than that of any other British Colony excepting Canada. The great influx of Loyalists in 1783 has been followed by a steady flow of emi- gration from the neighbouring Colonies and Great Britain ; and, from the healthiness of the climate, the rate of increase is high. It has been justly remarked by Mr. M‘Gregor, that a suspicion prevails among the working classes all over America, that the taking of a census implies the levying of a poll-tax, and therefore the real numbers of many families are withheld. Such an opinion is still common in New Brunswick. In 1783, the population of New Brunswick, by estimation. was . . •• • • .. 11,457 1817 ♦ . . . . . 35,000 1824, by census • . . • .. 74,176 1834, by census • • . • .. 119,457 1840, by census • • • . .. 156,162 1845, by estimation . • . • . . 192,867 PoPULiTioK of New BRUSswrcK in 1640, according to the Census taken by airecrion of the Pro'-inciat Legislature 1 CoUNTlBa. o u p K '5 -S ■K 1 d >* s 1 '=■ as « P C K ■di : Whitss. People of i CoLoun. \ Places of W oBSHtP. Mills. 0 >» . Stuci:. Xi c "2 p a a S o s .5 C eS 0 > c Xi bS s 0 -§ c « 0 ta 0 0 ,3 et s ■3 9 isi h 0 C 3 0 *3 1 '£ 1 01 I In: «■ 0 > 0 •d i '5- S 1-1 -p p p IK 0 a 0 1 <& <5 £ p Ji ”3 a : ■u Pk n fi 0 H > a |4 ■< 1 ^ 0 H rs a ’S f4i ■u 1 s' 1 s JS 0 -5 1'^ 0 ; £ ■ ■c- a la 3 S •a M ■B 0 ! .s <5 cf m 11 !rt3 _ CJ 0 d ■ E ^ 13 0 0 XJ ’S ■0 A D ‘ Jp m « c % : DQ li 0 Acres. County of Y ork 2005 2294 91 82 ST4f 3294 3341 3158 104 116 143' 92 13995 10 9 5 10 2 1 22 31 , 44818 : 2037 i 7445 i 150i7 6415 Carleton mr 2090 131 93 3553 3520 2979 3278 22 11 10 8 13881 3 1 2 4 4 5 27 22 49953 2570 9028 16187 8904 tf St John mi 5044 216 290 8993 ^ jm 9223 j 6896 183 L58 231 145 32957 8 ‘ 2 5 4 4 5 9 49 19134 893 3383 2907 3111 King’s 2m 230f> lOS 351 3836 363? 3490 3307 58 43 43 30 14404 ' 11 • 3 0 12 2 0 43 63 09452 2396 15672 24072 9408 Queen’s....^ ...... 1J6^ 1 1235 63 113 ! 2215 1954 1908 2061 23 23 23 25 8232 s! D 1 7 ' 2 4 1 28 43089 1342 8335 13302 4859 Sunbury 5?r OJE 33 42 1105 1094 935 1001 4 3 5 3 4260 1 2 ' I T 1 9 3 0 IS ; 12262 839 3901 6081 1 2311 Westmoreland.-. 2467 272S 130 103 4436 4600 4170 4360 15 IS 14 23 17680 4 11 13 ; 6 9 53 ISl 99922 ' 3421 20754 27553 16545 N orthumberiand ■ 203T 22S2 85 147 4360 3398 j 3286 3500 11 1 2 0 14629 4 9 2 2 8 1 IS 33 25323 1542 6003 8B3J 1 6125 Kent ! me IISS 63 III 21B9 IT32 1676 1876 1 1 2 0 7477 2 3 4 0 ! 9 0 13 31 20413 881 3579 6684 4923 Gloucester 1 loas 1103 50 36 203^ 2003 1773 1941 0 . 0 0 0 7751 1 1 1 0 9 0 18 7 llOSl 811 3219 6236 1 3643 Re^-tigouche 1 402 462 56 225 1235 705 581 027 ' 6 2 2 3 3161 0 j3 i " 0 1 3 6 5579 426 1118 1698 .1 1325 Charlotte ’ 2022 1 2910 135 9? 4637 4578 4473 4436 12 13 24 5 18173 11 i 5 1 6 8 4 2 16 193 35135 1133 : 7825 11759 4286 Grand Total... 20SH 24368 11S5 1690 42470 17593 37807 36501 439 3SS 549 334 150162 oijss !4^ 61 r 21 247 ^574 435861 18282 902ec ) 14105; 171915 R£HABXS.—€oirfff^ 0 / In the estitaatien of ■» n « O =s l-t York 13995 3517 Carleton 3 3381 3888 8999 32957 12289 7763 King s 14464 2269 4265 1 Queen's 8232 1028 2463 Sunbury 4260 422 611 Westmoreland 17686 3481 4902 Northumberland ...... 14620 3450 Kent Gloucester 7751 Restigouche * 3161 7477 1446 9695 — 10912 2589 6585 Charlotte 18178 2326 1 45231 Grand Total in 1340. . 156162 36705 Charlotte Grand Total in 1824. 9267 York 10178 Caileton 9493 St. John King’s Queen's Sunbury ............ W estmor eland ...... N ortliuinberland . . 11170, Kent 6031 Gloucester 8323 Charlotte , 19971 20668 12195 7204 3833 14205 25524 15852 74176 Grand Total in 1834. . 119457 45231 NEW BIIUNSWICK. 318 NEW BRUNSWICK. The rapid increase of population may be ascribed in some degree to the employment created by the timber trade. The average number of emigrants that arrive in the Province annually is about 6,000 ; of these, not less than 2,500 depart annually for the United States and other places, leaving 3,500 as the actual annual number of British emigrants who remain in the Province. A few settlers and lumbermen come in from the United States, and they arrive from Nova Scotia in consider- able numbers. The chief body of the population are descendants of the first American settlers and the Loyalists, who, although they are to be found in every part of the Province, are chiefly scattered along the banks of the St. John. The descendants of the Acadian French occupy villages bordering upon the great marshes of Westmoreland, and scattered settlements along the whole northern coast from Bay Verte to the Restigouche : they also occupy the banks of the Upper St. John at Madawasca. The Irish immigrants are found in the new and remote clearings of every part of the country, and their present population is not only augmented by an ingress from the old country, but also by a remarkable natural increase. An addition was made to the number of negroes by an inju- dicious importation from the Southern States during the last war with America : in general, they are idle and improvident ; nearly one-third of their number are at and near St. John, where they are a tax upon humanity and a burden to the country. The number of Indians is on the decline, and every attempt to improve their condition by civilisation has proved abortive. Church of England , — The early British and American inhabitants of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick were firmly attached to the Church of England, which in the infant state of the Colony was established by law, but not so as to put any restraint upon liberty of conscience, or to deprive other denominations from enjoying free and liberal privileges. At the present time, every denomination or sect is not only tolerated, but permitted to enjoy equal patronage and support from the Govern- ment. Nova Scotia and New Brunswick were formed into a Bishop’s see by letters patent from the King, and the latter was included in the Diocese of Nova Scotia (now under the charge of the venerable and talented Bishop Ingles) until 1845. In that year, the Province was NEW BRUNSWICK. 319 formed into a separate bishopric, and the Rev. Dr. Medley, appointed Bishop of Fredericton, is now engaged in the spiritual charge. The greater number of the clergy are rectors of parishes, and have very respectable churches and congregations. As the population is much scattered, there are generally two churches in a parish, in the settled parts of the country, in which the clergyman officiates on alternate Sundays in the morning and evening of the same day. This beneficial system greatly increases the labour of the pastor, who frequently rides, or travels in a boat or canoe, from ten to twenty miles between each service. The interests of the Church have been promoted by an association called the Church Society, who have sent missionaries to remote places, aided in the instruction of catechists and schoolmasters, Sunday schools, and the distribution of approved tracts. The members of the Church are more numerous than those of any other denomination, and its pre- sent flourishing state is highly cheering to all those who are attached to its services. The temporalities of the Establishment are vested in the Sovereign, and the Bishop decides upon the qualifications of all candidates for holy orders. The clergy derive their chief support from the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts ; the contributions of the people are limited. In consequence of the great demands upon the liberality of the Society, fears are entertained that their grants will be withheld, when the whole maintenance of the clergy will fall upon their congregations. The livings at present are from £200 to £300 currency per annum, yet often much less in parishes where the pastor is under the necessity of keeping horses and a carriage to enable him to perform his arduous duties. There are about ninety parishes, and at present sixty-five churches, capable of containing twenty thousand persons. The number of clergymen is only thirty. Double that number could be advantageously employed, and the energies of the venerable Church are loudly called for to meet the demands of this wide field of Christian labour. Roman Catholics , — The Roman Catholics are very numerous in the Provinces. Nearly all the Acadian French, and the chief part of the Irish population, belong to their communion ; and as a large majority NEW BRUNSWICK. 320 of the immigrants who arrive annually belong to the Roman Church, their numbers will soon exceed those of any other denomination. The whole of North America has been divided into Bishoprics by the Court of Rome, whose missionaries are scattered over the entire continent. New Brunswick and Prince Edward’s Island belong to one diocese. The residence of the Bishop is at the latter place; the clergy in the Province being two vicar-generals and sixteen priests, who are supported by subscriptions, fees, pew-rents, and tithes. Presbyterians . — The first Presbyterians who settled in the Province were chiefly Seceders. Since 1817, missionaries have been sent out by the Established Church of Scotland, and a synod has been formed, called the Synod of New Brunswick, with a presbytery at St. John and an- other at Miramichi. They have churches in the difierent counties, and very respectable congregations. The ministers, sixteen in number, are in general men of piety and learning ; they enjoy salaries from £200 to £300 per annum, derived from pew-rents and subscriptions. Of the changes that have taken place since the recent secession in the Scottish Church, I am uninformed. Besides the above, there are three ministers and as many congregations of the Reformed Church of Scotland. Methodists.— The Society of Methodists are also a respectable body. The number of members belonging to their church, as long ago as 1838, was 2487.* They have upwards of twenty preachers, and good chapels in many of the principal settlements. They hold an annual Conference, at which regulations are made for each succeeding year. The salary of each preacher is according to the number of his children, if he be mar- ried, and the length of time he has served in the ministry. He is paid by the Society in England, and by the contributions of his hearers. The salaries are as ample as those of the Church of England, and the ministers are zealous and indefatigable. Baptists . — The Baptist denomination embraces a considerable part of the population; they have descended from the “New Lights “ of the celebrated Whitfield, and have now an established faith contained in seventeen articles. They denounce infant baptisrfi, and allow none but adults to be partakers of that sacrament. They are governed by strict • Notitia of New Brunswick, p. 247. NEW BRUNSWICK. 321 rules, and in general are an orderly class of Christians. At an annual association, they adopt regulations for the preservation of harmony in the Society, and of late they have become advocates for the diffusion of learning. Their ministers, upwards of twenty in number, are supported by their hearers and members of the church. The Free-will Baptists have no regular form of church government, and small congregations are frequently collected under different names, such as Christians, New Dispensationers, &c. With these may be classed a few itinerary preachers, generally from the United States, who travel through the country, calling themselves missionaries, but who never fail to remain wherever they can obtain a comfortable living from the people. Among them, we find Universalists, Swedenbourgians, Millerites, Latter-day Saints, and other names characteristic of wild enthusiasm and religious frenzy. Some of these wandering stars and fanatical luminaries have been discovered to be the basest hypocrites, whose excesses have compelled them to fly before public indignation to the American “ far West,** where they have thrown off the mask that concealed their true characters, and become the revilers of all religion. These people and their followers, with the excitable portion of the Baptists and the unstable of other denominations, sometimes hold camp- meetings,* at which thousands assemble from zeal or curiosity. That * Curiosity once led me to attend one of these meetings, held near a small frontier town of the United States. About two thousand persons of all ages and sexes had assembled in a beautiful grove of pine, with all kinds of provi- sions, beds, and bedding. The road was lined with vehicles of every descrip- tion, and an allowance of grass and hay was supplied to the immense drove of horses secured to the trees in every direction. Tents were made of sheets, blankets, and carpets— a large platform was erected for the preachers, and le tout-ensemble formed a most singular and striking spectacle. The preachers on the platform relieved each other from time to time, and the whole of the exercises were vehemently pathetic, and admirably calculated to work upon the passions of the low and untutored ; but to the well-informed, many of them were disgusting and profane. Hymns of fifteen verses were sung occasionally, and the well-known airs of ‘‘ Days of Absence ” and Auld Lang-syne ” were worn threadbare. In reply to the remark, that those airs were adapted to common songs, it was replied by a spirited bystander, that Satan had had them long enough, and the meeting had determined upon consecrating them to GQ2 NKW BRUNSWICK. such meetings have an injurious rather than a beneficial tendency, has been proved by experience: but these and other vagaries will be dis- pelled by the dissemination of sound religious instruction, and the advancement of education will withhold from the pages of future history the records of acts that now disgrace a civilised people. The inhabitants of New Brunswick have heretofore been considered illiterate ; that opinion having prevailed from the limited means of obtaining information enjoyed by the early inhabitants. It is a com- mon remark in this Province and in Nova Scotia, that it is in vain to cultivate the higher branches of learning, so long as the Home Govern- ment bestows the principal offices and best pecuniary situations in the Colonies to persons from the Mother-country, who are sent out to fill them. That this feeling has operated against education, there can be no doubt ; and the unfair distribution of patronage has the still farther evil effect of severing the affections of the Colonial subjects from the Parent State. Notwithstanding this and other discouragements, a sufficient number of institutions have been provided by the Province to impart all the higher divisions of learning, and scientific information necessary to fit the student for any avocation that may open in the Colony. Common schools are also liberally supported. King’s College, at Fredericton, was established by Royal Charter in 1828, when Sir Howard Douglas was Governor of the Province. Its object, as expressed in the Charter, “ is the education of youth in the principles of the Christian religion, and their instruction in the various branches of literature and science.” The instruction is given by the divine worship. A sort of procession would occasionally move through the grove, headed by a party of singers. At the platform, the excitement would sometimes become general, and singing, praying, crying, and shouting were all mingled together in wild confusion. In the rear, all was a scene of festivity. At evening, numbers retired beneath the tents in the most promiscuous manner; and I heard the loud vociferations of the zealots in the dark hours of night, and after I had retired from the theatre of their enthusiasm. It was stated by one of the speakers, that the meeting was intended to produce a revival and general religious excitement; and certainly the latter object was fully realised. MEW BRUNSWICK. 323 Rev. Dr. Jacob, Professor of Classical Literature, Moral Philosophy and Divinity, and who is also Vice-President and Principal of the Institution ; a Professor of Mathematics, and another of Natural His- tory. Candidates for matriculation are required to be acquainted with the Latin and Greek languages, and the rudiments of algebra and geo- metry. No restrictions are imposed in reference to age, place of birth, or education, or religious profession. The instruction is devoted to the classics, mathematics, natural philosophy, chemistry, and natural his- tory ; intellectual philosophy, logic, and the evidences of religion natural and revealed; moral philosophy, general history, Hebrew, theo- logy, and French. The academical year has four terms ; and there are short vacations at Christmas, Easter, and Whitsuntide, to the end of June. Four years are required for the degree of Bachelor of Arts ; but actual attendance is not required for a longer period than three years. For superior degrees, the terms and exercises correspond with those of the English Universities. The religious exercises are those of the Esta- blished Church of England, and all the candidates for degrees in Divinity are required to subscribe to the Thirty-nine Articles of that church. The College is very pleasantly situated, and the expense of tuition and board is about £34 currency per annum. Scholarships of £20 and £25 have been founded, and are given to students of merit. At Fredericton there is also a Collegiate School, in which boys pur- sue all the studies necessary to qualify them for matriculation. The endowments of the College are ample. They consist of a tract containing 6,000 acres of valuable land near the town, a grant from the Crown of £1,000 sterling per annum, and a grant of £1,000 ster- ling from the Provincial Legislature annually. After the College was erected, and opened for the admission of stu- dents of all denominations, complaints arose from the Presbyterian Clergy that the Charter was too exclusive, and did not allow them a due participation in the management of its affairs. To remove this complaint, Sir Archibald Campbell, after he had retired from the Go- vernment of the Province, in 1837, sent out from Scotland two Presby- terian Professors, in the hope of allaying all feelings of jealousy on the part of that body. This had a salutary effect, until one of the new Professors became a proselyte to the Episcopal Church. T 2 NEW BRUNSWICK. 32i The Charter of the College has, from time to time, been assailed by petitions to the Legislature, and the subject is now under the conside- ration of the Home Government. The impossibility of uniting different religious denominations in colleges has been fairly proved in the United States and Nova Scotia ; and where a university has once been esta- blished by the labour of any division of the Christian world, and especially when such an institution does not exclude any from its benefits, it would be unfair and injudicious to enter upon a system of change at once rendered subservient to all the vicissitudes of sectarian- ism in a new country. These difficulties, and the means employed to remove them, have had a tendency to prevent the useful operation of the establishment. Had not the Charter of the Nova Scotia College at Windsor been so exclusive as, by tests on matriculation and all graduation, to prevent it from being resorted to generally as an institution for educational pur- poses, Sir Howard Douglas would probably not have established the Fredericton College : but having done so, on what was considered at the time very liberal principles, the effect has been that the tests on matriculation were abolished at Windsor College, and those on gradua- tion, excepting in Divinity, no longer exist. It is now too late to urge the fact, that one college is sufficient for the actual educational wants of both Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, as no less than six have been erected ; but, of that number, only three are in useful operation. Not- withstanding the learning and ability of Dr. Jacob, and his earnest endeavours to promote the welfare of King’s College, the institution has not responded to the expectations of its friends, and its practical usefulness, as being adapted to the wants of an infant Colony, has not been very extensive. The Methodist Society have an Academy, in a very delightful situa- tion, in the populous Parish of Sackville. The handsome and spacious building was completed in 1843, by private subscription, and a large donation from Charles F. Allison, Esq. of that place. A Committee of Ministers belonging to that denomination attend to all the affairs of the institution. The branches taught are, the classics, mathematics, natural philosophy, moral philosophy, and divinity. It receives a small grant from the Province annually, has from fifty to eighty NEW EIIUNSWICK. 325 students, and bids fair to be very useful in the general dilTusion of knowledge. The Baptists have a seminary of learning at Fredericton. This insti- tution was established by private subscription, and is under the super- intendence of the Baptist Association of New Brunswick, who appoint a local committee for its management. It was opened in January 1836. The instruction comprises the classics, English education, and mathe- matics. It does not enjoy any permanent revenue, and its maintenance is dependent on the support of the Legislature and the contributions of the denomination. The number of pupils, male and female, averages from fifty to one hundred, and the expense of board and tuition is about £30 per annum. There is in each county a grammar-school, supported by subscrip- tions, tuition fees, and a grant from the Province extending from £50 to £100 per annum. Each school is governed by trustees : instruction is given in the classics and the common branches of English education. These schools are situated in the towns, or most populous villages ; and although some of them have sustained a good reputation, others have declined into common schools, or, from having their influence con- fined to certain districts, they have been viewed by the inhabitants who live remotely from them as the objects of partiality and favouritism. The parish or common schools have been found to be the most generally beneficial in the diffusion of the first principles of learning among all classes. They are scattered over the whole inhabited face of the country, from the thickly-settled village to the remotest clearings. It is usual for the inhabitants, within certain limits, in the rural dis- tricts, to erect a school-house, which at first is made of logs and covered with the bark of trees. A teacher is then employed, and who, in order to obtain the Provincial allowance, must submit to an examination and obtain a licence to teach from the Government. The affairs of each school district are managed by three trustees, appointed by the Go- vernor. A school thus established receives from the bounty of the Legislature from £10 to £30 per annum, according to the number of its scholars or merits, as determined by School Commissioners, who are also appointed by the Government to manage the affairs of the schools in NEW BRUNSWICK. S26 each county.— £12,000 was granted by the Legislature for the support of the parish schools for 1836. Formerly many of the teachers of common schools were very incom- petent, and not unfrequently men of dissolute habits were entrusted with the important office of instructing youth : this evil was permitted to exist until the consequences became apparent in the morals of the rising generation, and the energies of the well-informed were aroused by the introduction of abuses that could not be tolerated. The present Lieutenant-Governor, Sir William Colebrooke, has been active in the improvement of the parish school system, in which a reform is now manifest. By these schools education is carried to the door of the humblest villager, and instruction is placed within the reach of the remotest settler. In consequence of the depressed state of the Provincial funds in 1843, the grant made by the Legislature to common schools in that year was only £1,200 ; since that time the annual grant has been increased^ and in the present year no less than £12,000 has been sup- plied towards the encouragement of the parish schools, agreeably to a law of the Province. During the winter season these places of in- struction are well filled with boys ; but in the summer they are with- drawn to engage in the common industry of the country, and frequently female teachers are employed to instruct small children of both sexes. A Madras School has been established at St. John. Among the trustees of the institution are the Lieutenant-Governor, the Chief Jus- tice^ and the members of Her Majesty’s Council. In it a great number ©f poor children are taught, supplied with books, and sometimes clothed gratuitously. Besides the above sources of instruction, there are in the City of St. John several respectable private schools, where a liberal education may be obtained at a moderate expense. These schools are well adapted for the preparation of boys for college, and their annual ex- aminations are open to the public. There are also private boarding- schools for young ladies, who are taught French, music, drawing, and embroidery. Sunday Schools have been very generally introduced throughout the NEW BRUNSWICK, 327 Province, and, by the laudable exertions of individuals, they are well supplied with teachers and with books : in them all denominations of Christians cheerfully unite, and their beneficial effects are very apparent in the morals and infonnation of the inhabitanta. Before we take leave of the religious, moral, and educational institu- tions of the country, the means employed for the suppression of intem- perance deserve some remarks. Temperance Societies have been very generally introduced and encouraged. The chief objection raised against them is the political or sectarian character they sometimes assume ; the resolutions of some Societies having been found to extend beyond their primary object, and to bear upon the freedom of elections, and even upon liberty of conscience. The teetotallers, or total absti- nence men, and those who allow the moderate use of wine, have done no harm — the great objects of both parties being similar. Although objectionable rules have been adopted by some of these bodies, yet, it must be acknowledged that, taken altogether, Temperance Societies have done much good in the cause of moral reform. Since their introduc- tion, the exhibition and drinking of strong liquors have become more and more unfashionable ; many intemperate persons have been re- claimed, and intemperance is viewed with greater abhorrence than it was in former times: nor can there be a doubt, that if the simple object of abstinence from intoxicating liquors is steadily maintained, its salutary effect will appear still more manifest in the next and suc- ceeding generations. But there is much reason to apprehend that these Societies will, in the course of time, altogether disappear. From their own influence, the necessity for active operations has been rendered less imperative, and the excitement created by their novelty has nearly dis- appeared : it therefore remains to be discovered whether the ordinary means of maintaining good morals, as taught by the Christian religion, are not more permanently efficacious in preventing any kind of crime than any system that can be devised by human agency. In treating of the social state of New Brunswick, the inhabitants may be divided into three classes. The early British settlers, the American Loyalists (of which only a few remain), and emigrants from Great Britain and their descendants, form the first class : besides these, S2S NEW BRUNSWICK. there are the Acadian French and Indians. In the spring succeeding the Peace of 1783, 3,000 persons arrived at St. John from Nantucket : in the following autumn these were joined by upwards of 1,200 more, and to them were added a number of families from Nova Scotia, with disbanded soldiers of Provincial regiments. All these persons were comprehended under the name of Loyalists, who, from their attachment to Great Britain, exiled themselves from their native country after its independence was acknowledged by the Parent State. The first settle- ment on the River St. John was made at Maugerville in 1762, by a few families from New England, who, in 1783, numbered about 800 souls. These persons and the Loyalists formed the basis from which the chief part of the present population have descended. The difficulties experienced by the early settlers were truly formidable and discou- raging : they were frequently harassed by the Indians, who were only appeased by the payment of large sums as a compensation for the wild animals killed by the English. Many of the Loyalists had forsaken their comfortable homes in highy-cultivated parts of the revolted States, and were compelled to live in huts in a wilderness inhabited only by savages and wild animals. The climate to them was untried ; and the winters, which were far more severe than they have been since, struck them with astonishment and dismay. Many were reduced to the greatest necessities for food and clotliing, and “ a few roots were all that tender mothers could at times procure to allay the importunate calls of their children for bread.”* During the severity of the cold, a part of the family kept watch, and supplied the fire in the hut with fuel to keep the others from freezing. Boards were heated and applied to the children of families who were destitute of bedding, and a scanty allowance of food was drawn over the snow and ice on toboggans sometimes to the distance of 100 miles. These were the persons who, through toil and poverty, surmounted every obstacle, removed the forest, and have finally covered the banks of tho noble St. John with rich fields, villages, and cities. The elements of the best society at St. John, Fredericton, and the smaller towns are very respectable : the principal officers of the Go- M‘Gregor*s British America. NEW BRUNSWICK. 3 ^ vernment and military, professional men, and merchants mix freely, but not unanimously, in the same circles. In the best classes there is a due regard to politeness, courtesy, and decorum. Persons of rank and some degree of eminence are, however, looked upon as forming a kind of aristocracy, which always maintains its superiority above the inferior orders, who eagerly aspire to the society they condemn as being unjustly exclusive. The medium ranks are generally stiff and cere- monious ; yet their kindness is unalloyed by ostentation, and their hospitality, when bestowed, is extravagant. There is a constant struggle between the aristocratic principle and the spirit of freedom and equality characteristic of the Americans. Persons who have risen from the lower ranks, and have arrived at afflu- ence, are apt to overrate their importance ; and such as have the advan- tages of birth and education are frequently supercilious. It is to be regretted that, from these causes, endless jealousies and bickerings arise, and society is divided into small circles and parties. A degree of cool- ness and formality pervades the whole mass, and is but too frequently exhibited to strangers, who, through these defects, are unable to perceive the real virtues of the community. The unhappy divisions of society have been increased by the licentious portion of the Press, which, from time to time, pours the lowest abuse upon the most distinguished individuals in the Colony; even the Judges of the highest Courts, than whom there cannot be found men of greater integrity and benevolence, and Her Majesty’s Representatives, do not always escape from newspaper insult, and persons who have long been held up to the public as notorious offenders have afterwards been proved guiltless. The law against the publication of libellous articles has been but seldom applied ; ' for the offending parties are scarcely ever able to pay a fine, and their imprisonment always calls forth sympathy — the last hope of the guilty. The inhabitants of the northern coasts of the Province are less hos- pitable and courteous than those of the south ; while the people of St. Andrew’s and the County of Charlotte excel in their civility to strangers. The great mass of the people are not free from the censure of being jealous of their Provincial brethren and visitors. Many view the country as being the rightful inheritance of the Loyalists and their descendants, and they are therefore opposed to emigration ; but such NEW BRUNSWICK. 330 views will disappear as the intercourse with other countries becomes extended. It is a common remark, that the customs and manners of the inhabit- ants of New Brunswick are more similar to those of the people of the United States than to those of any other British Province. This can- not be surprising, when it is considered that its early settlers emigrated from the revolted Colonies, and, from being situated along the frontier, the frequent intercourse with their American neighbours has had some effect upon the social state of the people ; but tlie inhabitants are uni- versally loyal, and firmly attached to the laws and institutions of Great Britain. A very happy state of society exists in the country villages; although these are not altogether free from that party spirit that mars the ^happiness of the citizen. The inhabitants of New Brunswick are very generally kind and hu- mane to persons in distress, and the number of their charitable institu- tions, and the means provided for the diffusion of knowledge, at once proclaim their benevolence, morality, and sound policy. The founda- tion of. their great enterprise and perseverance was laid in the early struggles and toils of their forefathers, upon which they have raised a noble superstructure, alike creditable to themselves and advantageous to the successors. Persons who travel rapidly through the country, or make a cursory visit to one or two of its towns, frequently, from hasty observation, entertain erroneous notions. From the declaration of a New Sporting writer, it might be inferred that the ladies of St. John amuse them- selves in winter by “ riding down hill upon hand-sleds with the gentlemen ! ** There might have been one or two of the above writer’s acquaintances who would engage in that rustic sport ; but during a residence of five years in that city, I never witnessed an instance of the kind, and can affirm that the ladies of New Brunswick have as high a sense of decorum as those of the most refined societies in England. Generally speaking, the ladies of St. John, Fredericton, and the whole Province, are fair and handsome ; many of them are well educated and highly accomplished. In their appearance, the gentlemen can scarcely be distinguished from the natives of Great Britain ; they are generally intelligent, and airdently devoted to their professions or business. NEW BRUNSWICK. 331 The fashions are British, with an occasional mixture brought in from the United States. There are few places of public amusement, and there is not an established theatre in the Province. Sometimes a band of theatrical performers will pass through the Provinces ; and during the summer season, menageries of wild animals, troops of horses, with tumblers, jugglers, and rope-dancers, from the United States, will visit all the towns and large villages. To such exhibition? the people are much attached, and any kind of excitement calls forth the multitude. Of late, the inhabitants of St. John and Fredericton have directed a share of their attention to scientific objects ; and the establishment of Mechanics' Institutes at those places has made an essential improve- ment in the pursuits of young men of different classes, and especially the mechanics, who are rapidly advancing in knowledge and respect- ability. During the winter, a few public assemblies are given at St. John, and private balls and suppers are not unfrequent. It is a peculiar feature of these establishments, that they are always made upon the largest scale, and the building of the kind host is crowded to a degree that often deprives his guests of every kind of enjoyment. These parties often create much angry feeling among the excluded, notwith- standing the invitations are given in the most cautious manner. Small parties are much less common than they are at Halifax, where the in- habitants are more sociable, and intent upon the enjoyment of solid comfort. At this season, skating and sleigh-riding are common amuse- ments ; and during the coldest days of winter, the ladies, thickly clad in furs, are transported over the turnpikes and rivers in defiance of the biting north-wester, or the sweeping drift that clothes the surface in a mantle of white. In the country, small parties, weddings, frolics, and courtships are enjoyed by young and old, and the season is hailed as one of festivity and amusement. Hunting is also practised, and can- didates for backwood honours leave their warm firesides, and sleep amidst the snow, in quest of the watchful deer and carriboo. In summer, there are races at St. John and Fredericton, steamboat excursions, pic-nics, regattas, shooting, angling, and a variety of amuse- ments for those who are not engaged in active business. Although few of the inhabitants pursue these amusements, yet, upon any extraordi- NEW BHUNSWICK. 33 ^ nary occasion, they all turn out and celebrate the day with great zeal and much display. But we must here contrast the pleasures enjoyed by the rational part of the community with the outrages committed by the lower classes at St. John, in defiance of the authorities and the laws of the land. In this city, the seat of much natural sobriety, there are frequently mobs and riots of appalling magnitude. These chiefly originate among the lower classes of the Irish, who are organised as Orangemen or Ribbon- men, and the display of an orange-coloured flower is sufficient to raise a tumult. From time to time, mobs and riots occur that are disgrace- ful to a civilised country. Upon any outbreak, thousands of both parties assemble with bludgeons, and even fire-arms, and, before the riot can be quelled, lives have been sacrificed on the unholy altar of party strife. The emigrants from Great Britain have become so amalgamated with the original inhabitants, and have so far adopted their customs and manners, that their social state does not require a separate description. The ancestors of the present race of Acadian French, on account of their disaffection to the British Government, were expelled from Nova Scotia by Major Lawrence, who succeeded to the administration of that Province in 1764. A few families escaped to Memramcook, Shediac, and other places on the north side of New Brunswick. A number also settled at the present site of Fredericton, whence they were compelled to retire to make room for the Loyalists and disbanded soldiers of 1783, and afterguards established themselves at Madawasca. These people have greatly increased in population, and now occupy a number of ex- tensive villages. The habitans are all strongly attached to the Roman Catholic religion, and have their priests supplied from Canada. Their customs and manners are similar to those of the Canadians. The men in general are lean, and of less weight than the British Provincials. The com- plexions of both sexes are very dark — a fact that may be ascribed, in some degree, to the admixture of the race with the Indians in the early settlement of the country. Among the girls there are many pretty brunettes, with sparkling eyes and fine glossy hair. Their fashions arc those of the old French peasantry. They frequently wear mocassins, NEW BRUNSWICK. 333 and wooden shoes are not out of use. The ordinary dress of the female consists of a petticoat and short loose gown, or mantelet : the former is made of blue woollen cloth, of domestic manufacture. The hair is sometimes tied in a club behind, and some of the men wear long queues. On particular occasions they dress more in the style of the English, but always display a variety of fanciful colours. Although they are mostly clean in their persons, and the exterior of their buildings has a neat appearance, they are not always very tidy in-doors. They are remark- ably moral, orderly, and frugal. Their ordinary diet consists of light food and soups ; but on their jours gras, or feast-days, their tables are covered with a profusion of the richest dainties. They are passionately fond of music and dancing, and every wedding is attended by almost the entire population of a village, who feast, sing, and dance several days in succession in honour of the newly-married pair. Sunday is made a day of gaiety and pleasure ; and after the ordinary worship is concluded, the remainder of the Sabbath is frequently spent in horse- racing, canoe-racing, carriole-driving, and a variety of amusements, from which dancing and. playing at cards are not always excluded, flagrant crimes are almost unknown among them, and in all their villages there is a perfect confidence of peace and safety. The hahitans are civil and polite in their address, through which they display much of their national character. They are hospitable to strangers, maintain their own poor, and are generous in relieving the wants of the dis- tressed. With all their virtues, the Acadians are not an enterprising people. It is scarcely possible to wean them from the customs of their fore- fathers, and improvements in the system of agriculture are very slowly introduced among them. The out-door clay oven, and the lofty well- pole, employed by the first French inhabitants in America, are still in use. Their houses are often clustered together, so that the inhabitants have not sufiicient space to apply their industry to husbandry ; and it is seldom an individual aspires to more than the cultivation of a few acres of land, or such a quantity as will meet the actual wants of his family. Heretofore, they have been altogether uneducated ; but, of late, schools have been introduced ; and it is now not uncommon, on entering the plain log cottage, to find its proprietor engaged in perusing 33i NEW BRUNSWICK. a French newspaper. With the English settlers they live in perfect friendship, and the Legislature bestows its bounties upon them as freely as upon other subjects of the Crown. Medical i^ractitioners are numerous. There are no laws to protect the profession, and empiricism is practised with impunity. Few people in the world live better than the farmers of New Bruns- wick. By their industry, they raise an abundance of agricultural pro- duce ; and they have been censured for their extravagance in consum- ing the food that would bring a high price in the market, and by the sale of which their gains would be increased : but they reply, that none have a better right to enjoy the fruits of the earth than those who toil for them. Three bountiful meals are provided every day, and these are often followed by a hearty supper. Their tables are generally well supplied with beef, pork, mutton, and fowls, with pickles, and a variety of vegetables. Salmon and other kinds of fish are also provided ; with these there are tea, coffee, cakes, pies, gingerbread, and almost every luxury it is possible for the country to afford. They are not very social in their habits, and their manners are unpolished ; but if a friend or stranger put himself in the way of their hospitality, he will find good fare and a hearty welcome : indeed, any person of respectable address and appearance, who can tell a good story, sing a good song, and play the fiddle, may travel through Nova Scotia and New Brunswick free of expense ; nor will he always lack the means of a comfortable convey- ance from place to place, or hose or mittens when the weather is cold ; and the farther he keeps from the towns, the more successful will he be in his economical tour. The Constitution and Government of New Brunswick do not differ materially from those of Nova Scotia or Canada. The Executive power is invested in an officer called the Lieutenant-Governor, who is sub- ordinate to the Governor- General of Canada ; but the latter does not exercise civil jurisdiction beyond the limits of his own Province. For- merly, the Governors of Canada were advanced from the Administra- tion of Nova Scotia. Sir John C. Sherbrooke, the Earl Dalhousie, and Sir James Kempt, all served an apprenticeship in that Province, and Sir John Harvey was promoted from Prince Edward’s Island to New NEW BRUNSWICK. 335 Brunswick. Although the people have power to check an unsatis- factory Administration by an appeal to the Court of Queen’s Beneh, the usual course of remedy against a Governor in such a case is, by address of the House of Assembly to the Crown, The Government of the Province is intended, so far as circumstances will admit, to re- semble that of the Parent State, and the Lieutenant-Governor is con- sidered to be the representative of Her Majesty. The different branches of the Legislature and the Judicature also follow the British model, and closely adhere to the systems of the mother-eountry. The Go- vernor has extensive power, and formerly he was Commander-in-Chief and Vice-Admiral. Of late the command of the army and navy has been given to distinguished officers of those departments ; but he is Chancellor, Ordinary, President of the Board of Marriage and Divorce, &c. He is aided and advised by an Executive Council, composed of nine members, who are appointed by Royal mandamus. He is not bound to be governed by the opinions of his Council ; yet, from eScpe- diency and necessity, his general acts must be sanctioned by them, or he cannot carry on his Government, and must consequently retire from it. All his acts are submitted for the consideration of the Colonial Minister, who direets him in the decision of all matters of importance. It is evidently the duty as well as for the interest of the Governor to receive and respect the advice of his Council ; but he is not bound to be ruled by that advice contrary to his own conviction. He is only ruled by the instructions of his Sovereign, to whom he is responsible for all his acts. If he refuse to consult his advisers, or reject their counsel, he does so at his own risk, and they must be able to sustain their position in the popular branch : but if not, their offices eease to be useful, and they must resign. In cases where the Governor stands opposed to the majority of his advisers and the House of Assembly, an appeal to the Home Government is always promptly met by a deci- sion, which so far has always restored tranquillity. Of late years, there has been a constant effort of the popular branch to advance upon the rights and privileges of the Sovereign, and which in Canada was carried to an alarming extent. To maintain the prero- gative of the Crown, which by the Constitution cannot take away the liberties of the people, and to secure to the subject his just rights, f NEW BRUNSWICK. I T 336 should be the aim of the Government ; and there are perhaps no peo- ple in the world who have less cause to complain of their rulers than those of the British American Colonies. If there be any who have reason to be dissatisfied, they are those who are most scrupulously loyal, and firmly attached to their Sovereign and country ; for the practice has too long prevailed of overlooking the merits of such men. while attempts are made to secure the favour of the disaffected by the best gifts and richest livings the Administration can afford. Up to 1834 , the Executive and Legislative Councils were united in one body. Since that period, the Legislative Council constitutes a separate branch, and contains nineteen members. The Legislature, therefore, now consists of three branches, — the Governor, the Legisla- tive Council, and the House of Assembly. The members of the latter, since the passing of the “ Quadrennial Bill,’* are elected by the people every four years. They are thirty-three in number. The Counties of York, St. John, Charlotte, and Westmoreland each send four members — Northumberland, Sunbury, King’s, Queen’s, Kent, Gloucester, Carle- ton, and the City of St. John each send two members — and the County of Restigouche one member, to the Provincial Parliament. Now that the County of Westmoreland has been recently divided, and the new County of Albert set off, another member will probably be elected by the inhabitants of the latter district. The Legislature of the Province meets at Fredericton during the winter season, and generally continues its sitting two months. By it the varied business of the country is managed — laws are enacted and amended — the claims or abuses of public officers, from the Governor downwards, are freely discussed, and the revenues of the country, over which the Assembly hold the sole control, are appropriated to the public service. The House of Assembly generally contains a large proportion of lawyers, and in the whole body there are a number of intelligent and rather eloquent men ; yet a stranger would decide erroneously, were he to suppose that those were the most learned and best qualified men of the Province, for it seldom happens that any member is elected on account of his abilities as a legislator. The debates are sometimes conducted with great spirit, and strong parties arrange themselves on NKW URUNSWICK. 337 different sides of the house. It would not be a difficult task to notice briefly the prevailing political opinions of any one particular time ; but these and their advocates are so liable to change, that the description would scarcely apply to a single season, and in the succeeding year it would be useless^ The ^powers of the Legislature are unlimited and incontrovertible within the Province ; but they cannot enact any law that interferes with tlie Acts of the Imperial Parliament, and none of their Statutes can be put in operation until they have received the assent of the Governor and the Royal sanction. For the administration of Justice, there is a Supreme Court, consist- ing of a Chief Justice and three Puisne Judges, who discharge all the duties of Queen’s Bench, Common Pleas, and Exchequer in England. Tliis Court sits four times a-year at Fredericton, twdee a-year at St. John and St. Andrew’s, and annually in the remaining counties. The Judges -are esteemed as men of the highest qualifications and soundest integrity. There are lawyers of all grades, and, from their numbers, many are unable to obtain a respectable livelihood by their profession. The Court of Chancery consists of the Chancellor and the Master of the Rolls. The Governor and Council form a Court for determining cases of marriage and divorce. Besides these, there are a Court of ’Vice- Admiralty, and in every county a Court for the Probate of Wills iand for granting Letters of Administration. The Governor and Judges of the Supreme Court ede term hie all cases of piracy and other offences on the high seas. In each county there is held an inferior Court, or General Sessions of the Peace, coiTesponding to the Court of Quarter Sessions j in Eng- land. Two or three Justices preside, all the Magistrates, and the Grand Jury of the County attend and aid in regulating the local affairs of every district. Debts of less than fire pounds are sued for and reco- vered by a single Magistrate, of whom there are great numbers in the Province. In every county there is a High Sheriff, appointed by the Governor- Constables and ofher parish officers are appointed by tlie General Session* ©f tlhe Peace^ The following is ifise Civil List of the Province, as established in 1827, when the Legislature granted £14,500 to be paid annually for .the support of the Provincial Government, in exchange for the QiveenTs 338 NEW BRUNSWICK. casual and territorial revenues. Since that period, the salary of the Surveyor- General and Commissioner of Crown Lands has been re- duced, and the excess of the grant is applied to other objects. Sterling per annum. Salary of Lieutenant-Governor £ 3,500 Chief-Justice .. •• .. .. .. .. 950 Commissioner of Crown Lands .. .. .. 1,750 Provincial Secretary .. 1,430 Three Puisne Judges, each £650 1,950 Attorney- General .. 550 Solicitor-General 200 Private Secretary to the Governor 200 Auditor- General 300 Receiver-General 300 In-door Establishment of Crown Lands Office .. 900 King’s College .. 1,000 Presbyterian Minister 100 Emigrant Agent, St. John 100 Annuity to late Surveyor-General 150 Indians 54 Total ie 13,443 The following was the Civil List of the Province for the year ending 1st of .January, 1846 : — Salary of Lieutenant-Governor .. .. £3,461 10 8 Private Secretary 230 15 4 Chief- Justice 1,096 3 0 J ustice of Supreme Court 740 0 0 Ditto Ditto 740 0 0 Ditto Ditto , . . . , . 740 0 0 Surveyor- General .. .. 1,200 0 0 Auditor-General . . . . . , . . 346 3 0 Receiver-General . . . . . . . . 346 3 0 Attorney-General .. .. .. 634 12 0 Solicitor- General .. .. .. .. 230 15 4 Donation to King’s College .. .. .. 1,111 2 0 Indians 60 0 0 Annuity to Anthony Lockwood, Esq. .. 173 4 o Acting Emigrant Agent 115 7 8 Provincial Secretary .. .. .. .. 1,599 11 0 Total for the year . . £ 12,855 4 4* Amount of Civil List . . , . 14,500 0 0 Sm-plus of the year .. .. £1,644 15 8 * Sic in 3f 5 .— Printer. NEW BRUNSWICK. 339 The taxes are so light in New Brunswick, that they are scarcely felt. The taxes for keeping the roads in repair are paid in labour in the country upon the roads, and the amount is regulated by the amount of property possessed by each inhabitant. There are also light taxes for keeping county buildings in repair, and for other local objects. The General Sessions of the Peace appoint assessors, who levy rates for the support of the poor. All these taxes are very inconsiderable, when brought into comparison with those of other countries. The highest taxes are paid by the citizens of St. John ; and they are likely to be much increased at that place, in order to defray a heavy debt in which the city is involved. The whole cost of defending the Colonies is defrayed from the Impe- rial finances, and amounts to from £130,000 to £160,000 per annum. The General Government has commenced a chain of fortifications of the strongest description along the line of the American frontier, and the opening of a military road from Nova Scotia to Quebec. It is now proposed to make the latter a railway, which would at once afford great power in the event of a war, unite the Provinces, and open a vast field for commerce, emigration, and Colonial industry. The number of Militia in 1834 was 30,000: it is now upwards of 55,000. They are regularly organised, and a number of volunteer companies at St. John, Fredericton, and other places are armed and trained. The habits of shooting have made many of the country Mili- tia very expert marksmen, and, in a new country, they would be found dangerous adversaries to an invading enemy. CHAPTER XL GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY OF NEW BRUNSWICK. The objects of the present work will not admit of giving an extended account of the geology of the Province. A Geological Survey of the chief part of New Brunswick was made by the Author between the years 1838 and 1844, by the order of the Colonial Government, and a full description of the rocks, minerals, and fossils is given in the Reports ^published by the Legislature. It is to be regretted that the .embarrassed state of the finances of the Province prevented the com- pletion of that work, especially as the exploration of another year would have rendered the Geological Map* of the whole country perfect, and discovered the resources of a large and, at present, almost unknown tract. The mineral wealth of Great Britain has greatly contributed in .elevating the nation to its^present exalted position ; it has imparted an extraordinary impulse to mechanical genius — has aroused her in- habitants to unceasing exertion, and produced the most favourable revolutions in agriculture, manufactures, and navigation. The gradual ^advancement of the arts, and their application to useful objects, have closely followed the development of those materials, upon which the industry of the people has been exerted with the most admirable re- sults. The annual amount of the raw mineral produce of Great Britain exceeds £20,000,000 sterling. The increase of that sum, by the operations of manufacture upon the minerals taken in their natural ♦ The Author is now preparing a Geological Map of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward’s Island. His sketch of a Geological Map of the former Province was published by the Geological Society of London in .1845. N^:w imuNswicK. Sit state, is almost incalculable. The Ordnance Geological Survey of England has proved of much utility to the mining and agricultural interests of the country, and opened a new era in the science of Geo- logy. The United States have completed geological explorations of almost every section of their territory, nor have the benefits derived from them been less numerous than those of Europe. Of the British North American Colonies, New Brunswick was the first to undertake an examination of her mineral resourees. Since the commencement of that survey, similar ones have been instituted in Newfoundland and Canada. Prince Edward’s Island has also followed the example. Nova Scotia would have engaged in such a work long ago, were not her mines and minerals sealed up by a close monopoly, which withholds from the inhabitants any participation in the mineral wealth of the country. The navigation of the ocean by steam, and the vast extension of rail- roadsj have greatly increased the value of coal and iron. New Bruns- wick, as well as Nova Scotia, contains an abundant supply of those necessary minerals. Great Britain has, therefore, inexhaustible re- sources of coal and iron on both sides of the Atlantic, and thereby her power as a maritime nation is almost unlimited, while the Colonies themselves are of inestimable value to the Empire. The opening of a railway between Halifax and Quebec would bring these resources into operation immediately, and in every way contribute to the security and prosperity of these Colonial Possessions. The progress of mining is always slow in a new country, where all the capital is employed upon such objects of trade as may be most readily obtained ; but, by open- ing free channels of communication, enterprise would soon be directed to mineral as well as to timber resources — foreign capital would be introduced, and the country would hold a position in some degree equal to its physical capabilities. Having described the general features of the Province in a previous chapter, we may proceed to notice the situations and characters of the rocks, fossils, and minerals. The general direction of the rocky strata is from the south-west towards the north-east, or vice versa ^ or on lines parallel to the border of the Atlantic Ocean ; the strata also runs in that direction, varying from east -south-east to north-east. These are N15W BllUNSWICK. the general courses of all the principal formations of North Amenca, and which afford evidence of the upheaval of vast anticlinal ridges along the continent in the direction of its south-eastern coast. A branch of the Alleghany chain of mountains passes through the Northern States. Cataadan, in Maine, is the loftiest eminence in its eastern range, being 5,300 feet above the level of the sea. This spur of the Alleghanies crosses the St. John, and entering New Brunswick, embraces Mars Hill, Moose and Bear Mountains, near Des Chutes River; the same chain extends in a north-easterly direction to the sources of the Miramichi, Nepisiguit, Upsalquitch, and Tobique Rivers, gradually disappearing as it approaches the Bay Chaleurs ; another branch penetrates the District of Gaspe, and slopes off towards the St. Lawrence ; a somewhat elevated ridge crosses the Schoodic River and the Cheputnecticook Lakes, presenting a number of beautiful eminences in its course to the Nerepis River and to Bull Moose Hill, in King’s County. These elevations form anticlinal ridges, against which the stratified masses lean, or they border immense troughs containing the secondary and tertiary formations. They are chiefly composed of granite, syenite, trap rock, and porphyry. Granite.— h ridge of granite crosses the Cheputnecticook River and Lakes, intersects the Digdeguash and Magaguadavic Rivers, and sends off a branch that finally reaches the St. John> at the head of the Long Reach. Along its southern side, it is associated with syenite and trap. Detached elevations of the same rocks appear at the sources of Mus- quash, Le Proe, and Poclogan Rivers ; also near St. Stephen’s, and at Calais. Another branch of the ridge extends in a north-east direction, and embraces the country between Magadawawaagum, or Loon Lake, and Eeel River Lake. It crosses the St. John at a point ten miles below the mouth of the Nackawick and the mouth of Eel River, and runs into the unexplored and mountainous country northward. Granite also appears at the entrance and on the banks of the Nepisiguit, and occupies the great tract of wilderness land in the interior of Northum- berlaiid and Gloucester. Syenite , — A belt of syenite and trapi)caa jocks reaches from the NEW BRUNSWICK. Kenebecasis along the northern boundary of the County of St. John to the Parish of Hopewell, in the new County of Albert. On an average, it is ten miles wide, and is situated a distance of ten miles from the Bay of Fundy. These rocks also appear at other places, and frequently pass into the true granitic rock, 2 rap Rock. A tract of trap rock reaches from Chamcook in a north- east direction, embracing the mouth of the Digdeguash, Lake Utopia, Red Rock Lake, and, crossing the St. John at the Reach, includes the Parish of Kingston and part of the Parish of Springfield, where it is met by the coal-field. It is associated with the granite and syenite, into which it sends numerous dikes, veins, and intruding masses. Metamorphie Rocks . — Succeeding the above, we find extensive de- posits of metamorpliic rocks, consisting of gneiss, micaceous, horn- blende, talcose, cblorite, and argillaceous slates, with crystalline lime- stone, quartzite conglomerate, grauwacke, and grauwacke slate, in which scarcely any regular order of succession can be traced. These are frequently broken through, interrupted, and pierced by dikes and veins of trap rock, porphyry, and serpentine. A group of these beds skirts the whole shore from Salisbury Cove to Chamcook Bay, on the shore of the Bay of Fundy, averaging about eight miles in breadth. No fossils have been discovered in these rocks. Resting upon the upper part of the series, near St. John, the compact sandstones contain the fossilised remains of large coniferous trees; but these, and a variety of terebratula, evidently belong to the imperfect coal-measures, of which there are several instances in the Province. Extending from the State of Maine, there is a belt of clay slate and grauwacke, which runs in a north-east direction across the St. John, embracing the Keswick and Mactaquack Rivers, thence across the coun- try to the main South-west Miramichi, into the unexplored District of Northumberland. These rocks skirt the granite of Charlotte County, and the Plutonic ridge of the Cheputnecticook, and also a part of the coal-field on the south side of the River St. John. No fossil remains have yet been discovered in them, and they may be properly referred to the Cambrian system. NEW BRUNSWICK!. 34i Silurian Rocks, — Between- the head of the Meductic Rapids and Madawasca, on the St. John, and occupying a large tract of country on each side of that river, there is a vast group of argillaceous, calcareous, and silicious rocks, to which the term ‘Uransition*’ was formerly ap- plied. The same rocks occupy the chief part of the coast between Bathurst and Dalhousie, and both sides of the Restigouche : they also appear at Port Daniel and other places in the District of Gaspe. The St. John passes through this group to the distance of upwards of one hundred miles, running obliquely across the strata. The distance across the whole series, at right angles to the strata, so far as they have been explored, in the wilderness, is upwards of seventy miles. This may be an approximation to the probable breadth of the belt near the American boundary ; but in the interior country of York, Carleton, and Gloucester, the breadth of the formation is evidently greatly dimi- minished by the protrusion of granitic and trappean mountains. This broad tract of rocks enters the State of Maine, occupies the valley of the Aroostook, in the territory formerly disputed, and probably reaches Canada in the District of Montreal, and also the State of New York. In their tithological characters, these rocks may be represented as being red and dark-coloured flags and slates, sandstone, freestone, shelly and compact limestone, black and lead-coloured shales, concretionary limestone, and grey micaceous sandstones. At the Meductic, Eel River, and at the head of the Nackawdck, this group of strata is found reposing upon and dipping from. granite. At the sources of the Upsal- quitch and Nepisiguit Rivers, granite, trap, and other rocks of volcanic origin, form anticlinal ridges, or axes, where the lower members of the above group, being non-fossiliferous, may be considered as belonging to the Cambrian system. The direction of this great system of rocks is from the south-west to the north-east, and the strata in general are highly inclined. From the general agreement of its divisions with those of the Silurian group of parts of England and Wales described by Profes- sor Sedgwick and Mr. Murchison, I have adopted the names employed by those gentlemen, which have been sanctioned in Europe and in the United States, and their descriptions will apply very generally to the Silurian rocks of New Brunswick. The above group is also penetrated by great numbers of dikes of trap, and occasionally serpentine. These NEW BRUNSW'ICK. Sin dikes are well displayed in the banks of the Tlestigouche and other rivers, where they have produced changes only referable to the heat that accompanied their protrusion. They are sometimes of great tliick- ness, and near mountain masses of the Plutonic rocks they are seen in broad shelving sheets. The Silurian rocks frequently abound in organic remains, yet they alre not universally distributed in the strata. At Flannagan’s Hill, below the mouth of the Presqu’ Isle, the strata consist of dark-coloured slates, with impure limestones: in the latter there are large and very beautiful specimens of the Cyathophyllum hasaltiforme, columns of encriniteSf and casts of productce^. The following is the result of a section made on the Restigouche and Bay Chaleurs in descending order : — Strata. Impure grey and blue limestone . . . Calcareous and argillaceous shales . . . Earthy rotten shale Wenlock limestone. Compact blue limestone. Friable sandstone. Shelly limestone. Compact blue and grey impure limestone in black, blue, and red shale ..../• Grey and brown sandstones Compact limestone „ sandstone j Argillaceous and calcareous slates . . Coralline marbles Conglomerates Clay slate > Organic Remains. Producta spirifera, orthocera, trilobites. Crinoidea, Cyathophyllum turbinum. { Atrypa aspera, with numerous testacca and corals. Producta, terebratula, Cyathophyllum turbinum, Cyathophyllum hexagonunt. Encrinal remains. Tentaculites ornalus, producta, terebra- tula, corals. Encrinal remains. Corals. No organic remains. No organic remains. From the great extent and thickness of the strata, my opportunities only allowed me to take a cursory view of them, and the fossils most readily recognised; among which are the Caienipora escharoidest or chain-coral. Some of the corals are of great size, and near Dalhousie they fall from the cliffs and are rolled upon the beach by the waves. During the examination, I was at once struck with the similarity of these fossils to those of the Silurian system of Great Britain and the United States, and especially to those from Lockport, near Niagara, 316 NEW BRUNSWICK. described by Mr. J. Hall and Mr. T. A. Conrad, who were employed in the Geological Survey of the State of New York.* Old Red Sandstone. — This rock is not very extremely developed in the Province, unless the lower conglomerates along the southern border of the coal-field may be classed in its group. It is intersected by the St. John just below the Ocnabog River, and opposite both sides of Long Island, and stretches along the border of the coal-field from that place to Min Creek. The strata consist of a dull brick-red-coloured sandstone and a compact conglomerate. They are pierced by dikes of trap, and the formation reposes on the clay slate farther south. Old Mountain or Carboniferous Limestone. — We find here also the carboniferous limestone immediately succeeding the Devonian strata. This formation reaches away in a south-west direction, and on the east side of the river, making a gentle curve to the north-east. It contains a few echnida and crinoidea. The Spirifera glabra of Sowerby are very abundant, and also a variety of producta. The whole thickness of the formation will not exceed a thousand feet. Carboniferous Group. — In the description of this series of rocks, for the sake of convenience we will include the deposits of red marl and sandstone, limestone and gypsum, of Butternut Ridge, Sussex, and Westmoreland, as they are in some degree associated wdth the great coal formation. By some persons, and among them several American geologists, the same rocks in similar situations in Nova Scotia have been considered to be the equivalents of the new red sandstone and lias of England. This opinion was not entertained by Mr. Lyell after his visit to that Province, and it has since been receded from by one or two local inquirers. Mr. Lyell has been disposed to class those rocks with the Devonian system, or the Permean rocks of Russia. As gyp- sum is found both above and beneath the coal, and the best discovered sections afford rather contradictory evidence in regard to the actual position of those rocks, the question must remain undetermined until * Sec Report of the Geological Survey of the State of New York, 1840. NEW BRUNSWICK. 347 more extensive observations are made, or better opportunities are af- forded to arrive at a just conclusion. The great coal-field of New Brunswick occupies a vast tract of coun- try of a triangular form. Commencing at Bay Verte, and crossing the isthmus between the two Provinces, its southern boundary follows the shores of Cumberland Basin and Shepody Bay. It then extends from the north side of Shepody Mountain to Sussex, and mantling around the trap rock of Kingston and Springfield, reaches the St. John at Long Island, where it nests the old red sandstone and carboniferous limestone already described. From thence it makes a gentle curve to the south, and runs westward to a point eight miles westward of the Oromucto Lake, in the County of York. Its south-western boundary has been followed thence to the St. John between Fredericton and the mouth of the Keswick : from this point its north-western side remains almost unexplored ; but, from examinations made along the tributaries of the Miramichi, it is known to extend to Bathurst Harbour, curving to the westward in the Counties of York and Northumberland. It occupies the whole of the Counties of Kent and Sunbury — the chief part of Queen’s, York, and Northumberland — a part of the County of Albert, and almost the entire area of Westmoreland. The length of the southern side of this coal-field is 145 miles — of its north-eastern side 110 miles. The distance from the Oromucto Lake to Bathurst, following the margin of the coal-field, is upwards of 170 miles. From the earliest observations, I had estimated its area at 7,500 square miles ; but the more recent examinations show that its surface is equal to 10,000 square miles, and, including the Cumberland coal-field of Nova Scotia, which belongs to the same carboniferous deposit, the whole area of the united coal district is computed to be 12,500 square miles ! ! ! The Province has been estimated to contain 26,000 square miles ; and when it is considered that more than one-third part of that area is a coal-field, with a due proportion of productive coal-measures, the quan- tity of coal will appear inexhaustible. The south side of this district is met by coarse red sandstones and conglomerates, to the distance of sixty miles. Southward of the Washadamoak, it is met by the trap rocks of King’s County. Between the Oromucto Lake and the St. John above Fredericton, the millstone grit apparently meets the slates. NEW RRUNSWICK. 34-8 The north-east side of the coal district is bounded by the Gulf of St. Lawrence ; and its sandstones and shales, sometimes associated with coal, arc seen in the low cliffs of the shore. But, besides the extensive area of the coal-field of New Brunswick, the same carboniferous district ex- tends into Nova Scotia, beyond Cumberland, and is scarcely interrupted between that county and Pictou, where the coal itself is extenMvely worked by the General Mining Association of London. I have ex- amined 200 miles of coast on the Straits of Northumberland and Gulf, and have found that all the rocks in that distance belong to the car- boniferous series. Upon an average, the surface of the New Bruns- wick coal-field is not elevated more than forty feet above the kvel of the sea : it presents an expanded low and level surface, excavated by water channels rather than broken by hills. The contemplated railway between Halifax and auebec would intersect the great coal-field to the distance of 140 miles, and open a tract of 5,000 square miles of excel- lent land to the industry of emigrants and settlers. The rocks of the carboniferous series are conglomerates, sandstones, shales, limestone, clay-ironstone, coal, and trap, similar to those of the coal-fields of Great Britain. Along the coast, the strata are nearly horizontal : in the interior, and especially in the County of Westmoreland, they are inclined at angles of twenty degrees, and sometimes forty degrees, from the horizon. The productive coal-measures appear to be near the middle portion of the series, although thin seams of coal occur in almost every part of the field. Many of the strata would afford superior free- stones for architectural purposes ; others are employed for grindstones, whetstones, &c. The coal, so far as it has been discovered, is of the bituminous kind. A variety of cannel coal is found in the new County of Albert. The principal known outcroppings are at the streams of the above county, Aboushagen and Tedish Rivers, Cocagne, Buc- touche, on the banks of the Richibucto River, Bartibog, New Bandon, Bartholomew’s River, the Grand Lake, Salmon River, and on the banks of the Oromucto. Thin strata of coal also appear in many other parts of the coal-field. The fossils of this coal-field are very numerous. The sandstones, shales, fire-clays, and conglomerates, abound in the remains and im- pressions of plants— many of which were of great size. In general. NEW BRUNSWICK. 849 every vestige of their leaves has disappeared, and nothing remains but the simple impression ; but sometimes the leaf is seen in a thin paper- like lamina of coal, and even in the centre of clay-ironstone balls every fibre of the original vegetable texture is beautifully delineated. The fossil trees are of different kinds, and occur under a variety of circumstances. At the South Joggins, on the shore of Cumberland Basin, and in the face of a cliff, they are situated at right angles to the planes of stratification, or stand perpendicular to the strata ; and as their roots are sometimes found attached, they evidently flourished on the spot. The only relic of the former .living tree is the bark, which has been converted into coal, and still bears the original flutings, fur- rows, and leaf-scars of the plant. The cylindrical trunks have been filled up with sandstone, shale, &c., and now represent the originifl trees in solid stony columns, from twenty to sixty feet in length, and sometimes upwards of four feet in diameter. In New Brunswick these fossil trees lie prostrate in and between the strata, so far as they have yet been observed. In some instances they have been changed into coal ; in others, this change has been partial,; and parts of many trunks on the shores of Chignecto Bay are composed of sandstone, iron pyrites, sulphate of barytes, and other minerals. At Bathurst, Carriboo River, and other places, the trees have been mineralised by copper, and their trunks have been worked out of the rocks and disposed of for copper ore, yielding 75 per cent, of pure metal. Large stems are found composed altogether of sandstone, apparently run in a mould like that of the iron-founder. In some of the large stems the ligneous fibre remains perfect and distinct: these are often mineralised by sulphate of barytes, or calcareous spar.; they resemble rotten ash, and split lengthwise very readily. There is still another variety of large fossil trees in which the whole of the trunk has been changed into a compact lignite : the original bark now appears in coal, and when removed from the fossil, the tree resembles a pealed oak. With these are the common fossil plants of coal-fields, only a few of which require description. Sligmaria are very numerous; and they are frequently found with their leaves attached and extending in all directions from their trunks NEW BRUNSWICK. 350 . . into the shales and sandstones. L^idodendra, calamiles ngtUana, strata there are sometimes thin layers of limestone containing she! . which the modioZa and cypris are most common; * em ossi rllfbemi found : these remains are of fresh-water. and occasionally of marine origin. Sulphurous springs J troVcuUeous their waters are used by the inhabiUnts in the ''Themd marly sandstones of Butternut Ridge. Westmoreland, and the Tob t. contain beds of limestone and gypsum ; hut the organi Plains Ud in the formation have been too few and imperfect to afford any very correct information in regard to its relative age. m ■ n —At Lubec. in the state of Maine, on the shores of thTslodfc. at Chamcook. Mace’s Bay. Manawagonis. St John Mispeck Emerson’s Creek, and other places along the coast of the Bay of Fund’v there are beds of sand, marly clay, and marl, forming ow I aJj. 1=-1 »»». -P-"* “ 'T’T"' Trr sol distance on the shore. The marl and marly clay contain the re- mains of marine animals and plants, often in profusion ; yet the deposits Z which they are buried are now situated from ten to forty feet above the highest Lei of the tides. The shells, including the testacea an 11 exceed twenty in number: of these, the chief part are found irabitin; the present ocean ; but a Pecten obUqus of the marl and two oler bivalves appear to be extinct, as they are not found on any pari of the coast Above these several beds and the relics contained i II rre am deposits of sand and gravel, from ten to fifty feet in thickness. There is abundant evidence to prove that the ancien sea- beach has here been raised far above the highest tides of the present period, and the water-worn pebbles of the former shore are elevated from Li to thirty feet above their ancient level, in situations where the marl and clav of the tertiary beds are absent. It is obvious that a whole line of coast on the north side of the Bay of Fundy has been, within NEW BKUNSWICK. 351 a. .h. rr„d'“'G,* r.iT.han”L'".’’rf to” r t Cr:;;£;:irxL:r y their roots m the sunken earth; the buried forest is now covered bv each succeeding tide, and the anchors of vessels are frequent y he d bv U« and stumps of trees that formerly stood Ze Z ollt In the northern counties, there are tertiary deposits similar to those already noticed The collections of marl in tL Counties orRtti! strata of yellowish-white marl, most frequently covered by peat and the ™nks and roots of decayed trees. The marl is a very p^uL carbonl f lime, and closely resembles chalk. It abounds in the remains of resh-water shells, all of which still exist in the Province. The sites of these deposits were evidently fresh-water lakes. Almost the whole surface of the fertile parts of the Pro- vince are overspread by beds of diluvial sand and gravel. These deposes, which might properly be called ancient alluvium, are of two inds the stratified and the unstratified. The stratified beds were evi- denUy produced by the action of currents of water, which have at some former periods swept over the entire surface, from the north towards e south. Diluvial grooves and scratches are found on the surfaces of doubt and which, no doubt, are the marks of the passage of boulders carried forward by the impetus of water, or icebergs containing heavy masses of rock. The valleys of denudation also bear evidence of submersion beneath active currents ; but to enter upon a full account of the operations of which. •352 NEW BRUNSWICK. .Uh.u8h it aM, »«.!. i«l"8 P'O"' “T Se..' s„vo,, — T to°f h“L; w'™. »y ‘X- E'H:.r:rr:r;z:?:=5= they could have been launched by the descent o ^ f i- unstratifled collections of debris, there are numerous boulders of rock C these boulders have been transported from the north ts evident. L they are always found to the south of their birthplaces, or where ,ke p.„„t 1. i. .if- Ertatio block, of »i.tt.rod oce, the »holo .orfocc ot U.e cool-ScU of Brunswick; and the nearest fixed masses of those rocks are t ins of Gaspe on the north side of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, “fore re— to presume, that in a former condition of the continent, and before the country was eleyated above the sea^ thos boulders, and beds of sand and gravel, were f masses of ice. as we now see them in the icebergs of the North, and in those of the Bay of Fundy and Gulf of St. Lawrence. The passage of those “ ice-cakes.” forced onward by the currents and Laded with stones, over the rocks of the shores, open ^ooves across the strata similar to those that appear beneath the dduvium o . le dry land* the topographical account. f the several counties,, situations of the fertile alluviums have been spoken of. They of rrhinds-the fresh-water and the marine. The former is the result of meteoric action upon the rocks, which causes rap:d d.smte^ation ; the particles detached by the frost, heat, and moisture are carried down- wards by the rains, and transported by freshets of water along the val- levs and river sides, where they form the fertile intervales, and extend the surface capable of producing plants. The ma.ine aUuviums are carried inwards by the rapid tides, and spread on the sides of the rivers. NEW BRUNSWICK. 353 whence in the course of time they become grass-bearing marshes, and being rescued from the sea by embankments, finally produce wheat and clover. The following are the principal useful rocks and minerals of New Brunswick : — Granite Syenite Roofing Slate Porphyry Mica Slate Talcose Slate Limestone Hydraulic Limestone Marble Alum Slate Coal Graphite, or Plumbago Ochres Iron Ores (abundant) Manganese Ores Galena, or Lead Ore Grindstone Freestone Sulphuret of Copper Amethyst Agate Jasper Homstone Thompsonite Stilbite Apophyllite Hornblende Feldspar Chlorite Garnets Talc Asbestus Magnesite Carbonate of Lime Sulphate of Barytes Gypsum Potter’s Clay Fire Clay Sulphate of Iron Tourmaline Serpentine Iron Sand. Iserine Springs — Salt Sulphurous Carburetted Hydrogen Ferruginous The following is a return of the produce of the mines and quarries in 1842, since which period there has been but little improvement in new BRUNSWICK. Number, Name. Situationj^and Description of the Mines and Quarries. do. H arbour Charlotte County. 1 Quarry at L’Etang Island 1 Do. St. John County. 19 Quarries Westmoreland. 7 Quarries 2 Do. 1 Mine 2 Quarries King’s County. 1 Salt Manufactory 1 Quarry, Flagging Queen’s County. 2 Mines, Grand Lake 4 Quarries 1 Quarry Sunhury County. 2 Quarries . • • • York County. 3 Quarries . • • • Carleton County. 2 Quarries . . • • 1 Quarry Northumberland County. 4 Quarries . . • • 2 Quarries Gloucester County. 1 Mine 1 Quarry, Slate 3 Quarries . • • • Kent County. 3 Quarries . • • • Limestone Do. Do. Grindstones Freestone Coal Gypsum . . Salt.. .. Freestone Coal Freestone Granite . . Freestone Freestone Limestone Freestone 1000 hhds. 1000 „ 6000 „ £400 0 0 400 0 0 2400 0 0 2000 stones 350 0 0 1000 tons 500 0 0 Just commenced. 500 tons 500 bushels 400 tons 500 chald. 1000 tons 6000 „ 100 „ 500 „ 300 hhds. 50 tons Freestone 1000 tons 250 0 0 Grindstone s 100 stones 12 10 0 Manganese 100 tons 800 0 0 Slate 100 „ 100 0 0 Freestone 500 „ 125 0 0 Freestone 400 „ 100 0 0 125 0 0 50 0 0 100 0 0 500 0 0 250 0 0 420 0 0 25 0 0 125 0 0 200 0 0 12 10 a CHAPTER XH. NATURAL HISTORY OF NEW BRUNSWICK. In treating of the Natural History of the Province our remarks must necessarily be very brief. A full account of the zoology or botany of any part of America would of itself occupy a volume. The distribu- tion of animals and plants has no reference to the arbitrary boundaries of nations and states, and the description of the productions of a single province would apply to almost the whole of the northern part of the great continent. Few have ever made any attempt to collect, classify, and describe the natural productions of Nova Scotia and New Bruns- wick : to the labours of others, in other quarters, we therefore add a few of our own observations on this wide field of inquiry. In the “Edinburgh Cabinet Library*** there are some excellent “ Descriptive Sketches of the Natural History of the North American Regions, * ** and a number of other works have contributed to a general knowledge of the natural history of the northern part of the New World. f We can, therefore, do little more than give catalogues of such productions as we are acquainted with ; and in their arrangement the system adopted by Dr. Emmons, of William’s College, and other American naturalists, has been found most convenient. * No. IX. t See Descriptive Sketches of the Natural History of the North American Regions; Richardson’s Fauna Boreali Americana; Pennant’s Arctic Zoology; Audebon’s Ornithological Biography ; Animals and Plants of Massachusetts, in Hitchcock’s Geological Reports by several Authors; Silliman’s Journal; Philadelphia Journal of Natural Sciences. 2 A 2 356 NEW BRUNSWICK. ANIMALS OF NEW BRUNSWICK. MAMMALIA. Order I. Carnassiers. Vespertillio Pniinosiis, Say. — Common Bat. Scalops Canadensis, Cuvier.— Mole. Condylaria cristata, Desmarest. — Star-nose Mole. Ursus Americanus. — Black Bear. Procyon lotor, L. — Racoon. Gulo luscus, L. — Wolverine; Cacajou, or Indian Devil. Mustela veson, L. — Mink, vulgaris, L. — Weasel, erminea, L. — Ermine, Martis, L. — Martin. Canadensis, L. — Fisher. Mephitis Americana, Desmarest. — Skunk. Lutra Canadensis. — Otter . Canis (Lupus) Occidentalis, Richardson. — Wolf. (Vulpes) fulvus, D. — Red Fox. Virginianus. — Grey Fox. Nigra. — Black Fox. Felis concolor. — Congar; Catamount — very rare. Canadensis. — Lynx, or Wild Cat. Phoca vitulina. — Common Seal, cristata. — Hooded Seal. Order II. Rodentia. Castor fiber, L. — Beaver. Fiber Zibethicus, L. — Musquash, or Muskrat. NEW BRUNSWICK. 357 Mu8 decumanus, Pallas.— Brown Rat; Wharf, or Water Rat. rattus— Black Rat. musculus. — Mouse. Icucopus. — Field Mouse. Gerbillus Canadensis. — Jumping Mouse. Arctomys inonax, Gmelin.— Woodchuck. Sciurus Hudsonius. — Red Squirrel, striatus. — Striped, or Ground Squirrel. Pteromys volucella, L. — Flying Squirrel. Hystrix pilosus. — Porcupine. Lepus Ameiicanus, Gmelin. — Hare. Order III. Ruminantia. Cervus Virginianus.— Common, or Fallow Deer. Tarandus. — Reindeer, or Carriboo. Alces. — Elk, or Moose. Order IV. Cetacea. Delphinus Delphis, L. — Porpus. ( Phoceana) gladiator. — Sword-fish. Balena mystecetus, L. — Common Whale. The inhabitants of New Brunswick generally believe that there are two kinds of bears in the Province — the long-legged and the short-legged; but I have never seen more than one variety, which is the common black bear of Canada : it is not very carnivorous, and feeds during the summer chiefly on berries. The bear is seldom disposed to attack man ; yet the female with cubs, or a wounded animal, will rush to an encoun- ter with great fury. The bear dens and commences his winter sleep in December, and creeps forth from his hiding-place in the latter part of March : in the intervening period he eats nothing; but he is said to NEW BRUNSWICK. 358 suck the thick part of his paw. Their retreats have been found m the winter season, and four animals have been found in a single den. They are very sullen and stupid, and persons who have accidentally fallen into their places of concealment have found them disposed to be on good terms rather than fight : and men are to be found who will volun- tarily enter u bear*s den and witli a long knife attack its inmates. During the summer, bears are sometimes destructive among young cattle, sheep, and hogs ; and the Province offers a bounty on every “ bear nose.*’ It is remarkable that the failover deer {Cervus Virginianus) was not seen in New Brunswick prior to tlip year 1818, at which period wolves also appeared ; nor has it yet reached Nova Scotia on its march to the south. This beautiful animal has evidently been driven into the Pro- vince by droves of wolves, which are now extending themselves far beyond their former limits. Before the above time, a wolf had not been seen in New Brunswick ; but they are now so common, that they some- times destroy whole flocks of sheep, and even attack the larger stock of the farmer, and the Legislature have offered a high bounty for their destruction.* In 1845, a wolf was seen in Nova Scotia, on the road between Halifax and Truro ; and during the past winter (1846) two have been killed in this Province, and carried through the country for exhibition. The Legislature has now also offered a bounty on every wolf that is killed. The wolverine or cacajou, commonly called the “ Indian devil,” is seldom killed, although it follows the tracks of the trappers in the forests, and frequently destroys their game. The Indians are afraid of this animal, and state that when it is hard pressed by hunger, it climbs the trees and springs upon them in a manner that renders them ex- * In the winter of 1842, I had occasion to make an excursion on the ice of Eel River and its lake, in a sleigh, and there observed the remains of three deer and a carriboo that had been dragged upon the ice and devoured. A pack of eleven wolves crossed the head of the lake during ray visit; but the thinness of the ice prevented me from venturing far from the shore, and I could only salute them with a brace of halls, which, from the distance being too great, took no effect. The bowlings of these animals around my camp at night were truly terrific. IQEW BRUNSWICK. 359 tremely dangerous enemies. Foxes are very numerous ; and although distinctively classed in regard to colour, there is hut one kind in which the colour varies from red to black. Red, grey, and black foxes have been seen in the same litter. Lynxes are less common ; yet they sometimes assemble in the hem- lock groves in packs. When pursued by dogs, they immediately climb to the tops of the highest trees, where they may be shot. A contest between a wild cat and a porcupine is very amusing : the latter depends upon his bristly armour and the strength of his tail, while the lynx parades around him with great ceremony, ever endeavouring to seize his opponent under the throat. Otters are frequently killed in moderate weather ; during the winter they travel from river to river, over the snow, in quest of fish, of which they destroy great quantities. The beaver is still found in the remote lakes and rivulets — at the sources of the Miramichi, Tobique, Nepisiguit, and Restigouche Rivers — and they are sometimes taken by the Indians in considerable numbers ; but the indiscriminate destruction of old and young, and the cutting away of their dams, has had a very injurious effect upon this valuable race of animals. Muskrats are very numerous in the St. John, and all the quiet streams ; and, during the autumn, they erect curious houses of sticks and flags upon many of the bars and low intervales. The Indians derive considerable profit from the sale of their skins. The deer tribe of North America has been well described by several authors. The graceful forms, strong but light proportions, and great activity of these animals, render them the most noble objects of the chase, and their flesh is esteemed by many as being very delicious. To the backwoodsman or settler they are sometimes valuable, and often supply him with food in his pressing necessities. The elk, or moose, is the most noble and valuable animal of the genus. It has been stated by some writers, that he does not inhabit any country farther south than the Bay of Fundy : but moose are more numerous in Nova Scotia than in New Brunswick. In the latter Pro- vince they are seldom found, except in the western territory — the herds of the east having been destroyed by the early inhabitants. The 360 NEW BRUNSWICK. ordinar;^^ moose stands six feet high, and weighs 1,000 lbs. ; the largest are upwards of seven feet high, and will weigh 1,500 lbs. The Cervus Tarandus, or carriboo, are quite numerous ; and the flesh, which is not very palatable, is sold in the markets of St. John and Fredericton. Both the moose and the carriboo can be tamed, and taught to draw loads like oxen ; and it is singular, that while the in- habitants of the North of Europe have made the reindeer serviceable, he has not been domesticated in America. Although they are exposed to the ferocious wolves, Virginian or fallow deer are very plentiful. They are frequently driven from their folds in winter, and occasionally travel along the turnpikes. In remote and isolated clearings, I have seen them feeding and gambolling in the flelds with the domesticated cattle of the farmer. The weasel, which is brown in summer, becomes perfectly white, or of a light cream colour, in winter. The hare also puts on a snowy- white dress ; but the mink and otter are of a more glossy black in the cold season than in summer. BIRDS. ® Order I. — Accipitres. Falco leucocephalus, L. — Bald Eagle, haliaetus, L. — Fish Hawk. Sparverius, L. — SpaiTow Hawk. Columbarius, L. — Pigeon Hawk, velox, Wilson. — Slate-coloured Hawk, borealis, Gmelin. — Red-tailed Hawk, hiemalis, Gmelin. — Winter Hawk. Strix flammea, Lin.— Barn Owl. nebulosa. — Barred Owl. fimerea. — Hawk Owl. Virginea. — Great-horned Owl. Otus, L. — Long-eared Owl. Acadica, Gm. — Little Owl. nyctea, L. — Snowy Owl. Asio, L. — Screech Owl. Order II. — Passeres. Tribe 1. — Scansores. Cuculus Americanus, Bonaparte. — Cuckoo. NEW BRUNSWICK. Picus erythrocephalus, L. — Red-headed Woodpecker. Carolinus, L. — Red-bellied Woodpecker, villosus, L. — Hairy Woodpecker, pubescens, L. — Downy Woodpecker. Tribe 2. — Ambulatores. Alcedo Alcyon, L. — Belted Kingfisher. Sturnus Ludovicianus, L.— Meadow Lark. Icterus Phceniceus. — Red-winged Starling. Pecoris, L. — Cow Bunting. Quiscalus versicolor, Vieillot. — Crackle, ferrugineus, Bon.— Rusty Crackle Corvus Corone, L. — Crow. Corax. — Raven, cristatus, L. — Blue Jay, Bombycilla Carolinensis, Briss.— Cedar Bird. Caprimulgus ^vociferus, Wils. — Whip-poor- Will. Virginianus, Briss. — Night Hawk. Cypselus Pelasgius, Temminck. — Chimney Swallow. Hirundo pur|)urea, L. — Purple Martin, rufa, Cm. — Barn Swallow, riparia, L. — Bank Swallow, fulva. Muscicapa tyranmis, Briss. — Tyrant Fly-catch«r. crinita, L. — Crested Fly-catcher, ruticilla, L. virens, L. Cooperi. — Olive-sided Fly-catcher. Lanius septentrionalis, Cm. — Butcher Bird. 362 NKW BRUNSWICK. Turdos felivox, Vieill. — Cat Bird, migratorius, L. — Robin, rufus, L. — Ferruginous Thrush, minor, Gin. — Hermit Thrush Sylvia coronata, Latham.— Yellow-rumped Warbler, magnolia, Wils. — citrinella, Wils.— Blue-eyed Yellow Warbler, petechia, Wils.— Yellow Red-polled W'arbler. pusilla, Wils.— Blue Yellow-backed Warbler, solitaria. — Blue-winged Yellow Warbler. Certhia familiaris, L. — Brown Creeper. Troglodytes sedon — Wren, Sitta . , 1 Carolinensis, Bris. — Nuthatch. Canadensis.— Red-bellied Nuthatch, varia, Wils.— Red-bellied Black-capped Nutbatcli. All thus spinoletta. Bon. — Brown Lark. Alauda alpestris, L.— Shore Lark. Trochilus colubris, L. — Humming Bird. Emberiza nivalis, L.— Snow Bunting. Fringilla hiemalis. — Snow Bird, melodia, Wils.— Song Sparrow. Canadensis, Latham. — Tree Sparrow, pusilla, Wils.— Field Sparrow, passerina, Wils.— Yellow-winged Sparrow, illiaca. — Fox-coloured Sparrow, tristis, L. — Yellow Bird, pinus, Wils.— ^Finch. Cardinalis, Bon. — Cardinal Grosbeak purpurea.— Purple Finch. Pyrrhula enuclator. — Pine Bulfinch. flamingo. Lath. NEW BRUNSWICK. Curvirostra leucoptera, Wils. — White-winged Crossbill. Americana, Wils.— American Crossbill. Corvus Canadensis. — Canadian Jay, or Moose Bird. Order III. — Gallin.®, Columba migratoria, L. — Passenger Pigeon. Carolinensis, L. — Turtle Dove. Tetrao umbellus, L. — Birch Partridge. Canadensis, L. — Spruce Partridge. Order I V.— Grallje. Charadius heaticula, Wils.— Ringed Plover, pluvialis, Bon.— Golden Plover, apricarius, Wils.— Black -breasted Plover, calidris, Wils. — Sanderling Plover, rubidus, Wils. — Ruddy Plover. Ardea herodius, Wiis. — Great Heron, minor, Wils. — American Bittern. Numenius Hudsonicus.— Esquimaux Curlew. Scolopax fedon, Wils. — Great Marbled Godwit. gallinago. — Snipe, tninor. Bon. — Woodcock, semipalmata. — Yellow-legged Snipe. Noveboracensis, Wils.— Red-breasted Snipe. Tringa pusilla, Wils. — Little Sandpiper. Rallus Virginianus, L — Virginian Rail. Carolinus, Bon. — Rail. Fulica Americana, Gin. — Common Coot. 364 NEW BRUNSWICK. Order V.— Anseres. Sterna hirunda, L. — Great Tern, minuta.— Lesser Tern. Larus Canus, L.— Common Gull, capistratus. — Grey Gull. Anus Canadensis. — Wild Goose, glacialis, Wils.— Long-tailed Duck. Americana. — American Widgeon. sponsa, Wils. — Wood Duck, marilla. — Scaup Duck, perspicillata. — Black, or Surf Duck, discors, L. — Blue-winged Teat, obscura, Wils. — Dusky, or Black Duck, histrionica, Wils. — Harlequin Duck, molissima, Wils. — Eider Duck.. Mergus M gosander, Wils. — Sheldrake. U cucullatus. — Hooded Merganser. Anser bernicla, Bon. — Brant. Podiceps cristatus, Latham. — Crested Grebe, minor, Latham. — Little Grebe. Uria alle, Wils. — Little Auk. Sula Bassana. — Solon Goose, or Gannet. Colymbus glacialis, L. — Great Northern Diver, septentrionalis, L. — Red-throated Diver. Phalacrocorax graculus, Dumont. — Shag.* The whole number of birds that frequent the Province is probably 200 ; of that number not more than 100 breed in the country, and • The preceding mammalia and birds have been examined by the Author ; but there are a number of birds in the Province that have not yet been captured. NEW BRUNSWICK. 365 many of them only remain a few days on their annual migratory visits to the north and south. FISHES. The following fishes are known to ^xist. The arrangement is that of V, C. Smith, M.D. ; — Class I. — Cartilaginous Fishes. Order 2. — Cyclostomi. Petromyzon marinus. — Lamprey Eel. fluviatilis. — Freshwater Lamprey Eel. Carcharias glaucus. — Blue Shark, vulpus. — Thrasher. Raia clavata. — Thomback . batis. — Skate. Order 3. — Sturiones. Acipenser sturio. — Sturgeon. Class II. — Osseous Fishes. Order 4. — Plectognathi. Ostracion triquetor. — Trunk Fish. Order 6. — Malacopterygii-abdominaUs, Salmo salar. — Salmon, trutta. — Salmon Trout, fario. — Common Trout, huco. — Hunchen Trout ; Togue. Osmerius eperlanus. — Smelt. Clupea harengus. — Herring, menhaden. — Menhaden, alsosa. — Shad. vemalis. — Alewife, or Gaspereau. minima. — Brit. 366 NEW BRUNSWICK. Esox lucius.— Pickerel, belone. — Sea Pike. Cyprinus auratus. — Golden Carp. ^ crysolencas. — Sliiner. atronasus. — Minnow, oblongus. — Chub, teres. — Sucker. Leuciscus vulgaris. — Roach . cephalas. — Small Chub. Silurus Horn Pout. Order 7. — Malaeopterygii Subrachiatu Gadus morrhua. — Common Codfish, rupestris. — Rock Cod. arenosus. — Bank Cod. merluccius. — Hake, taucaud. — Tom Cod. fuscus. — Frost Fish. Brosmus vulgaris. — Cusk . Morrhua oeglefinus. — Haddock. Merlangus vulgaris. — Whiting. Polachius. — Pollock . Platessa vulgaris.— Flounder. Hypoglossus vulgaris. — Halibut. Cyclopteras lumpus. — Lump Fish, minutus. Order ^,—Malacopterygii~apodts Anguilla vulgaris. — Eel. Congor muroena. — Conger Eel. NEW BRUNSWICK. 3G7 Order 9. — Acanthopterygii, Anarchicas lupus.— Wolf Fish. Labrus — Tautog fusca. macula tus. ^ Scorpsena Porcus. — Sculpiii. gibbosa. ^ Perea fluviatilis.— River Perch, labrax. — Striped Bass. Bodianus pallidus. — White Perch. Cottus gobio.— River Bullhead, quadricomus.— Sea Bull. Scorpius. — Sculpin. calaphractus. — Armed Bullhead. Scomber gex. — Chubbed Mackerel, vernalis. — Spring Mackerel, plumbeus. — Horse Mackerel. Scomber. — Common Mackerel, thynnus. — Funny. Chrysotosis Luna. — Moon Fish. Xiphius gladius. — Sword Fish. Fistularia tabacaria. — Tobacco-pipe Fish. Of shells, the number of species collected is 131 ; crustacese, 27. These have been arranged according to the system of Lamarck, by T. A. Green, Esq., of New Bedford, and appear in the Catalogue of the Animals of Massachusetts. The edible kinds have been already noticed. The principal reptiles are the Testiulo Scabra. — Turtle. 368 NEW BRUNSWICK. Testudo serpentina. — Snapping Turtle. Pennsylvanica. Coluber sirtalis. — Garter Snake, vemalis. — Green Snake, Ran a pipiens, L. — Bull Frog, flavi-viridis.— Spring Frog. Toads, two varieties. Salamanders, three varieties. The insects are very numerous ; but they have never been collected nor arranged. The same remark is applicable to the botany of New Brunswick, and we must refer our readers to other works for an account of the plants of British America.* • See Edinburgh Cabinet Library, No. IX. ; also. An Historical and Descrip- tive Account of British America, by Hugh Murray, 1839, vol. lii. p. 304. Vi ' ' ^ ' NP . NOTES FOR EMIGRANTS. emigration. However great may be the difficulties to be encountered by the emi- grant in removing from his native land to the forests of British America, and of supplanting the wild woods by cultivation, whence he is to derive his support, he has one cheering fact held out for his encourage- ment, namely, that all the industrious, frugal, and sober persons who have gone before him have been successful, and that almost every instance to the contrary has arisen from misfortune, sickness, or, what is far more common, idleness, intemperance, or mismanagement. Thousands of families who have landed in New Brunswick penniless, have, by their own labour, obtained and paid for tracts of land wliich they now live upon in comfort and independence. This plain fact is enough to show, that the transfretation of the redundant population of the mother-country to the unoccupied lands of her North American Colonies is not only a work of national importance, but also one of exalted benevolence. There should, indeed, be no delay in relieving Great Britain of a superabundant and starving population, while she has millions of acres on this side of the Atlantic that, by the labour of that same population, would afford them subsistence, comfort, and happiness, and by whom the resources of the country would be rendered more generally useful. The attention of the Government has long been directed to the dis- covery of a sound system of emigration, and much has been written on the subject ; but it is remarkable that no general plan has been followed out, and the practical operations of many apparently judicious schemes have proved to be imperfect. Pauperism, in all its frightful aspects. 2 B NEW BRUNSWICK. 370 still prevails in the United Kingdom, and frequently to an alarming extent; yet still the almost interminable forests that overshadow the fertile lands of British America are scarcely indented, except along the borders of the principal rivers ; and even there, the population is often very scanty. In the Old Country, early marriages are discouraged, because they contribute to an increase of numbers, and, consequently, of misery. In these Colonies they are viewed as being advantageous, from the acces- sion they make to the population ; and the birth of a child in the back- woods is hailed with more than ordinary natural joy, because, by the labour of his offspring, the capital of the Colonial settler is increased. It has been maintained by some, that, under such circumstances, emigration should be conducted at the expense of the Government,— or, at least, that all who desire to remove to the Colonies should be trans- ported gratuitously, and afterwards supplied with provisions for a certain period. To land a body of pauper emigrants upon the shores of Ame- rica without previous preparation for their future maintenance, would be but to increase their misery, or to throw upon the established in- habitants a burden they would be unable to sustain. Others, again, are of opinion that emigration should go on in the “ natural way^ and be left to the choice and the unaided efforts of the individuals who embark in it. Emigration conducted by public Companies has hereto- fore seldom been very successful, and has often been the cause of much disappointment and distress. To supply the settler in New Bruns- wick with a free passage, necessary implements of husbandry, and pro- visions until his first crop could be secured, would not be found ex- pedient or politic, and such a system would be liable to many abuses. Such are the frailties of human nature, and the effects of bounties be- stowed upon the ignorant of the lower classes, that gifts like these are apt to render them inactive and improvident. So soon as many receive the bounty or gift of the Government, or that of a public Company, they begin to cherish the feelings of the soldier or sailor, who serve and fight for their maintenance ; and some really suppose that the hand that freely administered to their wants in the first instance, is bound to supply them in indolence afterwards, or they lose the proper pride and energy so necessary to enable them to provide for themselves. NOTES FOR EMIGRANTS. 371 To this rule there are, indeed, many honourable exceptions ; but that the instances of gratitude and actual advantage are sufficiently numer- ous to recommend the general bounty of the Government to the lower classes of emigrants, is a question worthy of much consideration. The greatest limits to which the General or Local Government can extend its encouragement to settlers from Great Britain appear to be in the removal of the common obstacles that stand in their way. Before the emigrant leaves his native country or port, he may in some degree be made acquainted with the climate, peculiarities, advantages and dis- advantages of the land he desires to adopt as his future home ; and thus will he be freed from the disappointments that so frequently follow the representations of persons whose only object is to obtain “ passage- money.” His passage may be rendered safe and healthy, and protec- tion may be afforded against the impositions of unprincipled and design- ing speculators. And wherever emigration is carried on upon an exten- sive scale by a public Company, the freest communications should be made between those who have advanced to and those who intend to remove to the country. Agents should be employed who will devote the whole of their time and attention to the assistance of emigrants at the ports where their arrival is at all numerous ; and when, through sickness or any unforeseen cause, they are reduced to a state of distress, the bounty of the Government may be administered to their relief. Every facility should be afforded to enable the emigrant to obtain a lot of land without delay, if he possess the means of paying for it; and the price should never be fixed so high as to check the progress of indus- trious settlers. The scheme of granting the emigrant an outfit neces- sary to enable him to commence operations, the amount of which he binds himself to pay by instalments, or at the expiration of a certain number of years, is not politic. In some, this debt depresses the spirits ; in others, it is viewed as a demand of the State, which the ignorant seldom feel bound to pay ; and the humanity of the Govern- ment has ever been too great (and may it ever be!) to allow her officers to strip the shanty and hovel of the backwoods settler for the payment of a few acres of wild land upon which the subsistence of a whole family depends. Emigration by public and incorporated Companies is very practi. 2 B 2 NEW BRUNSWICK. 372 cable ; and the construction of the contemplated railway between Hali- fax and Quebec, through the central forests of New Brunswick, would open a wide field for the operations of such bodies. A due regard should always be had to the habits and kind of industry the immigrants have been trained to. Serious blunders have been committed, by locating people who had been brought up to fishing, in the forests remote from the sea, — and also by establishing families who had been bred to husbandry, upon a coast or river, where a part of their subsistence must necessarily be drawn from the water. The adopted • home of every family brought across the Atlantic should correspond as nearly as possible with their former residence, and their pursuits should deviate as little as possible from those to which they are accustomed. Many families of the lower classes of Irish have suffered great hard- ships upon their first landing in New Brunswick, notwithstanding hospitals are provided for the sick, and the Provincial Government and the inhabitants have been generous in their endeavours to prevent distress. Too often, poor emigrants linger about the sea-ports in the hope of obtaining employment, until all their means are exhausted, and they are reduced to pauperism and led into crime : yet, many such families have fairly begged their way into the country places, and finally become independent and steady settlers. The above evils might be remedied by the judicious management of an Emigration Company, the chief objects of which should be to trans- port the poor emigrant to a place where, by his own industry and frugality, he could win a livelihood ; but any attempt to hasten his operations by very free advances of money or provisions will generally meet with disappointment. It is the spirit and energy of the settler — it is the hope of final success and independence, that is to stimulate him to exertion, and such as do not possess this necessary ambition are not wanted in the country. Of the great number of emigrants who land in New Brunswick from the returned timber-ships, only a few remain and establish themselves in the Province, where there are as many advantages for the agricul- tural or maritime settler as can be found in any part of America. The current of emigration flows into the different parts of the American Continent in proportion to the amount of employment offered to the NOTES Foil EMIGRANTS. 31S labouring classes. A great number of the immigrants into Canada during several past years have found employment on public works. From the^ great number of public works carried on in the United States by the inhabitants, and by the expenditure of much British capital, employment has been given to thousands of Irish immigrants, who have finally become settlers. The vast sums of money advanced by persons in England to construct canals, railways, and other public works in the Republican States, have not only been the means of extending every kind of improvement in that quarter, but have also increased and strengthened the population of a foreign Power. In New Brunswick there are no public works that require such labour. The chief part of the immigrants that land in the country soon depart for the United States, and the few that remain are of the most indigent class. Thousands of tradesmen w'ho land in the Province also depart to the American towns, where they find employment in their particular occupations. The progress of manufacture in all new countries must be slow ; and so long as the price of land remains low, and soil fit for tillage can be obtained by the industry of a labouring man, the price of labour will check manufacturing enterprise. The total number of immigrants that arrive in the Province from Great Britain is about 8,000 per annum : of that number not more than 2,000 become resi- dents. Tradesmen, lumbermen, and farmers also come in from the United States and the neighbouring Provinces. The number of these will not exceed 1,000 per annum. And when there is any check applied to the timber trade, emigration from the Province proceeds rapidly. The foundation of emigration into the North American Colonies is laid by the first visitors to a district, who, when they are successful, inform their relatives and friends “ at homey' as it is always called, and accessions are made to their numbers yearly. This, and causes before adverted to, has given rise to the floods of emigration that are annu- ally poured into Canada and the United States; but New Brunswick, from being less, or scarcely at all, known in Great Britain, retains but few of the emigrants that land upon her shores, and her population therefore remains too scanty to act eflBciently upon her resources. 374 NEW BRUNSWICK. Note A. , Emigration by Incorporated Companies. When it is intended to promote the work of emigration through the medium of a public Company formed for the purpose, it is necessary that, before any families are sent out from the Old Country for the object of opening a new township, the requisite quantity of land should be carefully selected, and its outlines defined, by some person who is well acquainted with the Province. Application may then be made to obtain the land upon the most advantageous terms, to have the payments made by instalments, and the Company incorporated by an Act of the Imperial Parliament or the Provincial Legislature. The Government^have ever been ready to promote immigration upon an extended scale, and little 'difficulty need be apprehended in obtaining land upon very moderate conditions, and the Hon. T. Bailey, the Sur- veyor-General of the Province, will be found ready to supply informa- tion, plans, and descriptions, to any who desire to obtain lands for actual settlement. The New Brunswick and Nova Scotia Land Com- pany is the only body of the kind who have taken up lands in the Province : they obtained 500,000 acres between the Nashwack and the Miramichi, and at present their settlement is in a flourishing state. The Government will order the required tract to be surveyed ; this work should be performed by persons fully competent to the task. The tiers of lots should be laid out with due regard to the physical features of the country, rivers, future roads, and railways. An improper survey will retard the improvement of a whole settlement. The quality of the soil — its timber, fisheries, minerals — the future prospect of a market — the situation of the tract, in reference to water, or railway carriage — its proximity to a seaport, advantages for mills, its in- tervales, and many other circumstances, must be duly considered. Above all, the quality of the soil must be unexceptionable ; and this cannot always be determined by the timber growing upon it, as the primitive wood has, at many places, been destroyed by fire, and sue- NOTES FOR EMIGRANTS. 375 » ceeded by trees very different from the original growth. The situation of the settlement having been decided upon, the land surveyed in lots of one hundred acres each, with reserves for religious and educational objects, and the necessary arrangements made with the Provincial Go- vernment, a party of emigrants may be sent out and put under the direction of a qualified agent ; by whom arrangements will be made for their reception, and to aid them in taking up their lots : provisions, and the necessary quantity of seed, grain, and potatoes, having been procured, according to the circumstances of the immigrants, and the regulations of the Company. Emigrants who intend to settle in New Brunswick should arrive in the Province about the first of May, if possible ; for by clearing away a few trees and some underbrush on their lands in that month and to the 25th of June, crops of potatoes (early bluenoses), turnips, oats, and buckwheat, may be raised in the same season. Time will also be afforded to build comfortable log-houses before the approach of winter. J. G., in the County of Gloucester, took possession of a lot of land on the 16th of May, 1832 : in the same season, he cleared ground from which he raised eighty bushels of potatoes, ten bushels of turnips, and ten of buckwheat ; with these, and the fish he took upon the shore, and five bushels of wheat, paid for in labour, he maintained his family (a wife and two children), until the second, and a much larger crop, was obtained. In the first year, he built a log-house, and a hovel for a cow, and chopped eight acres ; in 1843, he raised eighty bushels of wheat, one hundred of oats, five hundred of potatoes, ten of barley, twenty-five tons hay, kept ten head of homed cattle and two horses, and was in independent and most comfortable circumstances. Many other similar cases might be quoted. In some districts, wild hay may be procured to supply a few cows with fodder during the winter. In opening a settlement, even upon the most extensive scale, it is desirable that only a limited number of immigrants should at first arrive and commence operations : these should be young single men, or persons with small families ; with these there should be a few active men of the Province, or backwoodsmen. After the villages are opened, immigrants may arrive at any time, and 376 NEW BRUNSWICK. persons who have a capital of £50 may also advance to the settlement at any season of the year ; yet the one we have named is the most favourable, as it affords sufficient time to prepare for the succeeding winter. The advanced party, after they have provided shanties for themselves, may be employed by the agent in erecting log-houses and clearing for the Company. Eight men will build a comfortable log- house in two days ; the roof will be covered with bark which “ peels well in June,” or broad 'cedar shingles, when they can be obtained. A cellar may be dug under the house after it is built, or opened near the cabin, and covered with brushwood and earth. The log-houses are built by felling the trees, (spruce and fir are preferred,) cutting them into blocks from fifteen to twenty-five feet in length, and laying them toge- ther with dovetails at the ends ; a spacious fireplace is made of stones, when they can be procured, and the chimney is composed of short sticks, thickly plastered with clay mortar : the floor is made, in the first instance, of pieces of wood hewed on the upper side ; openings are cut through tl^e logs for a window and a door, and the open spaces or cracks between the logs are carefully filled with moss, and then plas- tered over with clay. The New Brunswick and Nova Scotia Land Company offer for sale a great number of lots on their tract near Stanley, and within thirty miles of Fredericton. Lots may be purchased from the Company upon which log-houses have been erected, and clearings of several acres made. Wilderness tracts of one hundred acres each are offered by them for £31 sterling, payable by instalments in eleven years without interest. The lands in general are good, and roads have been opened, in different directions, across them. The Company have a church and resident clergyman, a school, and saw and flour mills, and their lands may be reached in twenty-four hours after leaving St. John. The following table shows the contents in acres of each county of the Province, the number of acres which have been granted or located by the Crown, and the quantity of land still remaining vacant and at the disposal of the Provincial Government. NOTES FOR EMIGRANTS. 377 County. Vacant. Granted and Located. Contents. Restiffouche acres. 1114560 acres. acres. 1266560 1 0.6UUU Gloucester 713440 1037440 Northumberland 2216000 QQ4nnn ‘)OA/"kAAA «/0 lUUv/ O^UUUUU Kent 806400 OO^niKA/ . OO'IUUU Westmoreland 632000 1 ouuuu XolzOOO St. John 126000 414720 Charlotte 480000 oUuoOU 7o3J60 King’s 244000 849920 Ov/Ol/^v/ Queen’s ^ , 470000 ACit OCA 961280 Sunbury 413000 O^AAQA 782080 ooyuou York 1280000 QOl AAA yjiouu 2201600 Carleton 2088000 *\A4AAA 2592000 OlriUUU Totals , . 10129400 AA77QAA ou / / you iD^U/tioU There are upwards of 20,000 acres of land fit for settlement surveyed in each county. The first six counties border upon the sea, and abound in harbours and fishing stations, and they are well adapted for emigrants from the coasts of Great Britain. The chief part of the emigrating population are persons without capital, and many of them are very poor. The greatest struggles of these people, in all cases where they have no relatives in the country, are after they arrive and before they can obtain labour or land whereby they can maintain themselves ; and being ignorant of the country, its localities and soil, they are unable to select a place of settlement : their choice also is liable to be very injudiciously made. These, and many other evils, would be prevented by a Company, and each indi- vidual and his family would be able to proceed immediately to their lands, where they would receive such assistance as would enable them to make themselves comfortable, and to commence the clearing of their farms without delay. Much, however, would depend upon the system of the Company, and the qualifications of the agents employed, who should be well acquainted with the country and its peculiarities. 378 NEW BRUNSWICK. Note B. Emigration by Associations. < Persons who have capital of £25, £50, or £100 each, would find it to their advantage to form an association previous to their embarkation from Great Britain. By it, individuals of the same habits and manners would be united and afford mutual assistance to each other. They might send an agent in advance, to examine and purchase from the Government the necessary quantity of land ; and by opening a settlement of thirty or forty families, they would obtain their lands upon more favourable terms, receive a grant from the Legislature to open roads, and an allowance for schools, &c. As soon as the lands have been surveyed, the immigrants have taken possession, and shanties have been built, each settler will commence clearing by felling all but the largest trees, and rolling the logs into piles at the side of his field : the branches, and even the logs, may be burned. Upon the ground thus cleared, potatoes and other vegetables are to be immediately planted : wheat, Indian corn, oats, and buckwheat may be tried, if the season be not too far advanced. If the immigrant take possession of his lot on the first of June, he will be able to clear an acre, including a small kitchen- garden. Thousands of families who have settled upon wild lands in this manner, have, in a few years afterwards, abandoned the shanty of logs and bark, and moved into houses neatly painted ; their barns and other outhouses, their live stock, &:c., being the best testimonials of their industry, comfort, and independence. In travelling through these new villages, it is common to see a small log-house, and upon the same farm a large framed barn. At the fine springs of water, home-made linen is put out to bleach, stocking-yarn hung out to dry, a large wood pile for fuel, crotch harrows, carts, sleds, a grindstone — all indicating that the inhabitants are people of business “ in doors and out.** The articles required by the “new settler** are a comfortable supply of good clothing, a few culinary utensils, a spade or shovel, a sickle, scythe, the iron part of a plough ; twenty-five harrow teeth, each ten inches long ; two axes, one plane, three chisels, one drawknife, one NOTES FOR EMIGRANTS. 379 handsaw, one gouge, three augers from |-inch to Ij-inches bore ; one hammer, four gimlets, five lbs. nails, a supply of leather, a few awls, a pair of pincers. He must have ingenuity enough to make shoes and mocassins ; he must be a carpenter, blacksmith, tanner, and cooper ; his wife and daughters must know how to spin, weave, knit, and make clothes also to cook economically, and manage a dairy ; his son must swing the axe. In every village of ten families, there should be a cross- cut saw and a whip saw : a gun is occasionally useful ; but a hunting farmer is always a poor farmer. The rule should be, to shoot for the pot and fish for the pot. Every settlement should have its fiddler or piper : music, and occasionally a little innocent recreation, cheers the mind of the emigrant amidst his early struggles and privations. To show the practicability of settlement upon this plan, we might mention numerous instances where the poorest class of Irish emigrants have congregated and squatted upon Crown lands, and after much toil and many privations, they have paid for those lands, and now drive their drawn by fine horses to market ; and besides enjoying the common comforts of life, many of them have considerable sums of money “ laid past.** The inhabitants of the Province do not, however, desire the farther introduction of this class of emigrants, as occasionally, from idleness and intemperance, they become a burden upon society; and should they arrive at independence, they assume airs of importance seldom observed among the immigrants from other parts of the mother- country. The following are the latest regulations for the disposal of the wil- derness lands : — Regulations for the Disposal of Crown Lands in the Province of New Bruns- wick. (By order of His Excellency the Lieutenant-Governor in Council, 11th May, 1813.) Whereas it is considered that much expense and trouble will be saved by persons who are desirous of purchasing Crown lands, especially in remote parts of the Province, by authorising local sales thereof to be held in con- venient places; and as it is expedient to prescribe certain regulations respect- ing applications for, and sales of, such Crown lands; it is therefore ordered, — 1st. That in future, public sales of Crown lands .will be held, as occasion 380 NEW BRUNSWICK. may require, on the first Tuesday in every month, by a Deputy-Surveyor there- unto specially appointed for each county. 2nd. That all applications be addressed by petition to His Exce ency Lieutenant-Governor, and transmitted either by the applicant or through the Local Deputy, under cover, to the Sun-eyor-General, and accompanied by a Report from the Local Deputy, describing the land, and setting forth whether it is required for actual settlement, together with such other information as he may deem necessary to be communicated. , , ^ ,• j r i » 3rd. That if the application be approved of, and the land app le or already surveyed, a warrant will forthwith issue to authorise the survey to be executed, on guarantee to the Surveyor for the expenses of survey, according to such regulations and at such rates as may be prescribed for surveys in the department of the Surveyor-General; and where the applications for land in any locality may be numerous, care will be taken that the charges be pro- portionately reduced. , , , ... r 4th. That on the return of the survey duly executed, the description of the land, the time and place of sale, and the upset price, will be announced in the Royal Gazette, and also by handbills to he publicly posted in the county where the land lies, at least twenty days previous to the day of sale ; and the charges for all such surveys shall be paid down by the purchaser or his agent at the time of sale, in addition to such part of the purchase-money as will be required, or the sale to be deemed null and void. 5th. That if the land applied for should have been previously surveyed, the like notice of the time and place of sale, &c. be forthwith published, and three- pence per acre, survey-money, paid down by the purchaser or his agent at the time of sale, in addition to the part of the purchase-money required as before, or the sale to be null and void. 6th To facilitate these arrangements, outline maps of the several counties are to he made as soon as practicable, for the use of the Surveyor-General and Deputy-Surveyors, and for the information of the public, on which are to be recorded the situation and limits of the lands when surveyed and advertised for sale. . 1 . 1.1 ■ 7th. The upset price of all Crown lands for actual settlement is to be not less than three shillings per acre, exclusive of the charge for surveying the same. Twenty-five per cent, of the sale price to be paid down, and the remainder to he payable in three equal annual instalments, to be secured by bond of the purchaser; each instalment to bear interest at six per cent, per annum, from and after the day the same becomes due. Purchasers who may pay down the full purchase-money at the time of sale will be allowed a deduction or discount of one-fifth for prompt payment.— (N ote. No person is allowed to hold more than one hundred acres, payable by instalments.) 8th. That in future no consideration or allowance whatever will be made NOTES FOR EMIGRANTS. 381 on account of unauthorised improvements on Crown lands which shall not have been commenced or made on or before the 1st day of May of this present year ; but the allotments, with such improvements, will be sold in the same manner as other Crown lands. 9th. That in cases of the sales of land where improvements may have been made prior to the 1st of May, and where the occupier is not the purchaser, the Surveyor-General or Deputy-Surveyor will value the same, subject to an appeal by petition to the Governor in cases of objection to such valuation; and the purchaser shall be required to pay such valuation on the day of sale to the person entitled thereto, or, in cases of appeal, to deposit the same, in addi- tion to the purchase and survey money, as hereinbefore provided. 10th. That all Local Deputies making sales under these regulations be re- quired to make a return thereof (as well as of all instalments received within the previous month for sales formerly made by such Deputy) to the Surveyor- General, within fourteen days after such sales respectively, and of all bonds which he may have taken for securing the payment of instalments. nth. That every such Deputy be also required to transmit, within fourteen days after such sales respectively, a duplicate of the said return to the Re- ceiver-General, and to remit to him all monies received on account of such sales (and also for instalments on former sales made by him, and surveys made at the expense of the Crown), except the sums paid for surveys and deposited for improvements, of which he is to render an account; and he will be allowed to retain for his remuneration a commission of five per cent, of the purchase-money so received — such per-centage in no case to exceed in the whole the sum of £100 per annum. And the Receiver-General shall, within six days after his receipt of such return and remittance, render to the Surveyor- General a copy of the return duly authenticated. 12th. That where the purchase-money has been paid down under the con- ditions of the 7th clause, a grant will immediately pass to the purchaser; but in other cases an occupation-ticket will be issued to him on the day of sale, signed by the Surveyor-General : such ticket will not give any power or authority to the occupant to cut and remove from his allotment any timber or logs until all the purchase-money is paid; but all timber and logs so cut shall be liable to seizure, unless paid for according to existing regulations for ti e disposal of Crown timber and lumber; in which case the amount so paid shall be carried to the credit of the purchaser and towards the liquidation of the in- stalments which remain due or unpaid for the said allotment. 13th. That every Deputy authorised to perform the foregoing duties wull be required to give a bond to the Queen, with two approved securities, in the penal sum of £400, conditioned for the faithful performance of his duty. 11th. Tliat no Deputy shall be permitted, either directly or indirectly, during 382 NEW BRUNSWICK. the continuance of his official employment, to purchase or be in any manner interested in any Crown lands whatsoever. 15th. That where large parties of settlers may associate and make apphca- tion for the purchase of tracts of wilderness lands in situations distant from any settlements already formed or in progress, and to which communications may not have been opened through the forest, they will set forth m their peti- tions, and the Surveyors in their reports, all such particulars ; and when the difficulties to be overcome may require greater facilities than are provided for in the foregoing Regulations, the case will be reserved for the special consideration of the Lieutenant-Governor and Council; and when such parties may engage to defray the charges of surveying their locations, and also of the bye-roads required to be opened to and through their settlement, and to which they are willing to apply their own labour, the Deputy -Surveyors will be authorised to execute such surveys. In laying out such locations, the Surveyors are to attend to the 6th clause of the Regulations of the second of December last, in reserving lines of road, and allotments for schools and places of worship, which reserves will not be allowed to be broken or sold. Note C. Emigration hy Individuals or Families, Emigrants to New Brunswick may be divided into two classes those who have some capital, and those who upon their landing have no means to support themselves, nor to obtain land. The first will have com- paratively few difficulties to encounter. In every part of the Province there are farms for sale, of every description ; the prices of which are from £50 to £1,000. Their value is estimated by the nature of the soil, quantity of cleared land, intervales, dike or marshes, proximity to market, pleasantness of situation, and facilities for trade and manu- factures. The purchase-money is paid by instalments, and security is held upon the property by mortgage. Any individual with sufficient means may, therefore, establish himself as a farmer ; yet there are many circumstances to be considered in the purchase of a fann, and much time may be lost before the purchaser is suited. Respectable immigrants will not find it to their advantage to take expensive lodgings in the towns ; but, rather, they should proceed at once into some country village, and commence an examination of the farms for sale in the district ; and they must bear in mind that many of the NOTES FOR EMIGRANTS. 383 people of New Brunswick value themselves for being “keen for a bar- gain/’ and some are apt to make the stranger pay the highest price for everything he wishes to purchase. Many persons of ample funds have been ruined by unwise speculation, extravagance, or by what is more common, an attempt to introduce the expensive system of farming in England, where wages are low, into a new country, where labour is scarce and very dear. Indeed, the immigrant who has money is in greater danger than he who has none ; one having everything to lose, and the other everything to gain. Persons desirous of settling upon wild lands should proceed imme- diately into the interior country after they land, or to the shores if they are destined for the fisheries, where they will always find employment, especially during the summer season. The Deputy-Surveyors in each county will give them information in regard to ungranted lands, which they can visit previous to making a purchase. The improvements of squatters may sometimes be purchased upon moderate terms, and a grant of the land may be taken at the Crown Lands Office upon the payment of the fixed price. The following table is taken from the Official Reports of 1842 : — ' Abstract of Persons supposed to be settled or squatted on CroAvn Lands without any authority. County. No. Acres. Amount. Charlotte M2 14,200 £2,130 0 0 St. John 62 6,200 930 0 0 King’s 145 14,500 2,175 0 0 Queen’s 139 13,900 2,085 0 0 Sun bury 95 9,500 1,425 0 0 York 142 14,200 2,130 0 0 Carleton 122 12,200 1,830 0 0 Restigouche 82 8,200 1,230 0 0 Gloucester 199 19,900 2,985 0 0 Northumberland 174 17,400 2,610 0 0 Kent 132 13,200 1,980 0 0 Westmoreland •• 166 16,600 2,490 0 0 Total 1,600 160,000 £24,000 0 0 Young or unmarried labouring men will always find employment in the Province, and the rate of wages is invariably high ; but during a 384 . NEW BRUNSWICK. year or two after their arrival, and before they are made acquainted with the work of the country, their wages are below the ordinary rate. By hiring with a farmer, or embarking as a lumberman, a steady and careful man may, at the end ,of four or five years, save enough of his earnings to purchase a hundred acres of wild land, and to establish him- self upon his own property. In cases of this kind, the settler usually labours with a farmer, or a lumbering party, during the summer, when the wages are high, and improves his own lot by chopping in the win- ter, until he is able to maintain himself without “ working out,” when he usually marries. This is the system pursued by the young men of the Province. Young women also find employment, both in the towns and in the country, and their wages are from 10 s. to 15 s. currency per month. Boys and girls also obtain labour in the country villages. It has been stated already that the chief part of the immigrants that arrive in New Brunswick are of the poorer classes. Ihey are princi- pally Irish, and the greater number of them proceed to the United States, where they find employment on public works. Those who in- tend to remain in New Brunswick, upon their arrival should apply to the Emigrant Agent of the Port for advice. Emigrants with families who have no means to obtain land, nor to maintain themselves, except by their labour, should come out under the care and direction of a Com- pany, and not expose their families to want and misery, or throw them upon the charity of the community. There are no persons who are more successful in New Brunswick than steady mechanics. In general their wages are very high, and they have full employment. The fol- lowing instance is quoted fur illustration. W. S., a tailor from London, of small stature, now owns a snug farm in the County of Albert, ten miles from Shepody. About twelve years ago, he commenced working at his trade, going from house to house in the village : five years afterwards, he purchased from the Government two hundred acres of land, nine miles from any inhabitant, and he car- ried his first seed, potatoes, and grain into the forest, where there was no road, that distance upon his back. During the five years, his wife and daughter by their industry more than maintained the whole family, and the earnings of S. were devoted to the clearing of his land. I was at this man’s house in 1843 : his farm was in a good state of cultivation ; NOTES FOR EMIGRANTS. 385 he had four cows, one yoke of oxen, six young cattle, a horse, and plenty of pigs and poultry ; his house was filled with the best provi- sions, and he had wheat for sale ; upon his shelves there were eheese and numerous large cakes of maple sugar, and he acknowledged that he had put aside a little “ cash for a rainy day.” He said, independence and contentment had been his motto ^ he longed to see the steeple of St. Paul’s once more, and maintained that after all there was “ no place like Lxinnm, although the forest of Shepody had been good to him.” His land is of a superior quality. Wages in New Brunswick, 1846 : — Trade or Occupatiou. Average Wages per diem, without board Average Wages per annum, with board and lodging. and lodging. Currency. s. d. £ $. d. Blacksmiths 0 .. .. 40 0 0 Bakers 6 .. .. 25 0 0 Butchers Brick makers 6 0 0 Bricklayers 3 Curriers 3 Carpenters and Joiners . . 0 to 6 3 40 0 0 Cabinetmakers 3 .. .. 40 0 0 Coopers 0 .. .. 35 0 0 Cooks (Females) «. .. . . . . 20 0 per month Dairywomen 0 Dressmakers Farm-labourers .. .. 1 3 0 0 Grooms 0 0 Millwrights Millers 6 0 0 Painters 3 Plasterers 3 Shoemakers Shipwrights 3 .. 40 0 0 Stonemasons .. .. 6 3 to 7 6 Sailmakers 3 Tailors 0 to 5 0 Wheelwrights .. .. 6 0 Whitesmiths . . . . . . 0 Lumbermen and Sawyers receive from £3 to £5 per month, and Foremen of the different branches lOs. per diem. ^ 2 c NEW BRUNSWICK. 386 Prices of Agricultural Produce and Farming Stock in New Bruns- Articles. Price — Currency. 00 o 0 0 0 Indian Corn 0 ..0 2 3 ..0 8 0 0 Hay, per ton (ip the country) . . ..2 0 0 to £4 0 0 A good Cart Horse 0 Saddle Horse .. 30 0 0 A Yoke of Oxen .. 15 0 Oto 20 0 0 Sheep, per head .. 0 10 0 A Milch Cow ..5 0 0 to 7 10 0 A breeding Sow ..2 0 0 to 3 10 0 Pigs, sucking, each ..0 5 0 Farmer’s Cart .. 7 10 0 A Waggon .. 12 10 0 A Plough . . 0 A Harrow (double) ..3 0 0 A narrow Axe ..0 8 0 A broad Axe .. 0 15 0 A log Canoe .. 1 10 0 Beef, per quarter 4 per lb. Fresh Pork ..0 0 4 „ „ Veal 3i „ „ Mutton 4§ „ „ Venison 4 „ Butter 0 ,, Eggs 9 per dozen. Potatoes usually Is. 3d. per bushel. In 1845 great quantities were destroyed by the prevalent disease of that year, and the price has been raised in eountry places to 2s. 6d. per bushel. The price of clearing an acre of land varies from £3 10s. to £4 10s. currency, according as it may be heavy or light timbered ; or for Chopping £1 10 0 Piling and burning off •• •• 1 0 0 Fencing 1 0 0 NOTES FOR EMIGRANTS. ..o- oot A man will chop an acre of land in six days. The price of the labour of a yoke of oxen is 2s. 6d. per day ; oxen and driver, 5s. ; horses and waggon, 10s. per day. The prices of British manufactured goods are from 50 to 75 per cent, higher than they are in England. West India produce is comparatively Emigrants are brought to New Brunswick from different ports in Great Britain in the timber ships, of which there are a great number employed in the trade. Before their departure, the time of their sailing and destination are advertised. Emigrants for any part of the Northern Counties or Coast of the Province should ship for Miramichi, Bathurst, Dalhousie, or Richibucto ; and all those who intend to remain in the Southern Counties should embark for St. John or St. Andrew’s : the neglect of this precaution has involved a number of emigrants in much unnecessary expense in travelling from one place to another. The communication from those places along the rivers in steamboats and towboats to the interior is cheap during the whole of the summer and autumn. The cost of passages from the following different places is follows : — _ Places. Cabtk. Cost including Provisions. £ £ London . . .. 15 to 20 Liverpool .. 12 „ 15 Greenock. . .. 15 Dublin .. 13 „ 15 Londonderry .. 10 „ 12 Cork.. .. .. 12 „ 16 Cost with Provisions. £ s. £ 6 0 to 7 3 10 3 10 4 10 4 10 Steehaoe. Cost without Provisions. £ *. £ • • 3 5 to 4 .. 2 10 .. 2 10 .. 2 10 .. 2 10 .. 3 0* 5 John is forty days ; Tlie average passage from Great Britain to St. to the Northern Ports, forty-five days. Passengers are entitled by law to be supported on board the vessel forty-eight hours after their arrival. A tax of five shillings currency is required from the master of every passenger ship for each adult brought from the United Kingdom. Two children between seven and fourteen, and three children under seven years of age, are reckoned as an adult! * Simmonds’s Colonial Magazine. i i 1 388 NEW BRUNSWICK. No fund has ever been provided upon which the immigrant has any claim ; he must, therefore, depend upon his own means and exertions after he has landed in New Brunswick. Until he has been some time in the Province, and has made himself acquainted with the labour of the country, his services are not of much value ; he should, therefore, be careful not to refuse even very moderate wages at first. Many have suffered severely by holding out for high wages on their first arrival. I have seen hundreds of Irish labourers, whose families were starving, stand idle in the streets of St. John, from week to week, rather than work for less than sixpence an hour ; and when any individual would engage for a less sum, he was immediately caught and beaten by his companions. Note D. Currency, The pound sterling is twenty -four shillings and fourpence currency. The pound currency contains 4 dollars ; 1 dollar contains 5 shillings , 1 shilling, 2 sixpences; 1 sixpence, 6 pennies ; 1 penny, 2 coppers. The value of the pound currency is about 165. ^\d, ; the dollar, 4s. \\d, ; the shilling, 9|c?. ; the sixpence, nearly 5d, sterling. In ordinary dealing in New Brunswick, the current coins of Great Britain are usually paid away at the following rates : — sovereign, 24s. 6d, ; crown, 6s. Id, ; half-crown, 3s. 0\d, ; shilling, Is. 2d, ; sixpence, 1\d, These rates are liable to some variation. The principal Emigrant Agent, M. H. Perley, Esq., resides at the City and Port of St. John. That gentleman is well acquainted with the Province, and assiduous in his duties. The Deputy Treasurers act as agents at the several outports. THE ENJ). II. I. 8TEVEKS, PRINTER, PHILPOT LAKE, LONDON. NEW COLONIAL WORKS PUBLISHED BT SIMMONDS & WARD, LONDON; And to be had of all Booksellers, THE FOLLOWING WORKS ARE JUST PUBLISHED. One Vol. demy 8vo., price 5s. THE EMIGRANT: A TALE OF AUSTRALIA. BY W. H. LEIGH, ESQ., Author of*' Reconnoitring Voyages and Travels in South Australia^ Cape of Good Hopef* ^o. One Vol. demy 8vo., price Ss., with Illustrations, ST. LOUIS’ ISLE, OR TEXIANA; BEING ADVENTURES AND EXPERIENCE OF TEXAS. BTr«irsni:ES'^6TON, esq.. Author of" Colin Clink** ** Bilberry Thurland,'* %c. ^c. Two Vols. 8 VO. REMINISCENCES OF CUBA; OR, THE SMITHS AT THE HAVANNA. BY CHAS. F. ELLERMAN, ESQ., Author of " The Amnesty** %c. PREPARING FOR EARLY PUBLICATION, A NEW HISTORY OF BARBADOS, With large Map^ and Views of the Island Scenery, To be published by Subscription. Price 30s. Dedicated to SIR CHAS. GREY, Governor-General of Barbados. By SIR ROBERT H. SCHOMBURGK, K.R.E., Chairman of the Barbados General Railway, &c. New Colonial Works, published by Smmonds Ward. POPULAR WORKS NOW READY. Demy 12mo., price 5s. A R A B I N ; OR, THE ADVENTURES OF A COLONIST. BY THOS. M‘COMBIE, ESQ., Editor of the Port Phillip Gazette, and Author of in » Simmonds'e Editor or tno r Magazine.” and “Tait’s Magazine, &c. fee. « May be commended for some agreeable sketching of character, and some useful information.” — Athen(Bum. “ This work, we doubt not, will attract a goodly share of the attention of the nublic. The tale is simple, but interesting; the characters are well sketched , the adventures, without being unnatural, are stnking, and tend to chain the attention of the reader ; and the various descriptions of Australian society and ^life in the bush ’ convey a truth-like portrait of life m that outlandish the world Mr. M'Coinbie is evidently a man ot much observation, and one who can turn his talent to the best account.”— Herald. “ Vigorous and life-like pictures of Australian scenes.”— Northern Star. “ \ plot full of interest, and a variety of lively characters to rivet the reader’s attention and carry him on with impatience to the sequel. The a charm which we may look for in vain in works of pure fiction. 1 he work is written in a popular and pleasing style, and full of incident and adventure. Colonial Magazine. ^ v it r “ From his connexion with the periodical press in New South 'W ales, Mr. M‘Comhie has been enabled to gather together m^^ch cimous information re- lating to the humbler livers in the Bush and elsewhere in that contributed entertaining papers about them to Simnionds s Colonial Map- zine ’ ‘Tail’s Magazine,’ and other publications. Collected, they make a very characteristic volume, in^which we read of many things generally un- noticed in more systematic productions, such as adventures among log-huts, and descriptions of the habits of the poorer settlers, their little rogueries, and occasionally more serious offences. We may therefore say, that there is a new scene for these domestic and internal concerns, which, as they differ from our home affairs of a similar kind, may divert an idle hour with the vanorum ot wandering Literary Gazette. THE BEST AND MOST RECENT WORK ON NEW ZEALAND. One Vol. demy 8vo., price 8s. NEW ZEALAND AND ITS AFFAIRS; Forming a Complete History of the Colony. BY DR. MARTIN, Late a Member of the Legislative Council, and Magistrate of the Colony. “ A very interesting and elaborate work. The letters in this book are well written and instructive, and the narrative contains a great deal to excUe n«fnniQbment Few books upon Colonial matters contain more useful information.”— Advertiser. rp, i ^ r vr “ This work is replete with interest and novelty. The history of New Zealand is copiously narrated ; its government measures recorded ; the settle- ments graphically pourlrayed, and the aborigines and settlers sketched both