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36
TRAVELS AND RESEARCHES
IN
ASIA MINOR,
MORE PARTICULARLY IN
THE PROVINCE OF LYCIA.
BY
) ~ 0
SIR CHARLES FELLOWS.

LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1852.
1
-***
PRINTED BY
JOHN EDWARD TAYLOR, LITTLE QUEEN STREET,
LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS.
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2.
DJAV
PREFACE.
Ar the request of several of my friends, and in accord-
ance with the spirit of the present era in literature, I am
induced to publish in a cheap and compendious form
the present abridgment of my Journals. In this edition
I have omitted the Inscriptions in the Greek and Lycian
languages, together with the dissertations upon them,
only occasionally giving translations of the Inscriptions
in notes. The lists of plants and coins, together with
such Plates as are not capable of being introduced into
this Work, are likewise omitted.
A further motive with me for publishing this edition
has been the wish to see collected and brought together
in one work an account of my researches, and of the
satisfactory result of my four visits to Asia Minor, my
Journals having necessarily appeared at intervals, and
been followed by several pamphlets, on particular sub-
jects connected with those works, and in continuation
305199
iv
PREFACE.
of the same researches. I have also added a paper,
rendering to the Trustees of the British Museum an
account of the results of the Expedition for removing
to our National Museum the works of Art which I
discovered.
London, November, 1852.
CHARLES FELLOWS.
4
PREFACE
ΤΟ
A JOURNAL WRITTEN DURING AN
EXCURSION IN ASIA MINOR.
1
SINCE my return to England from the Tour in Asia Minor,
which forms the subject of the following Journal, I have
been informed at the Royal Geographical Society that parts
of my route which lay through the Interior and Southern
district of the country, and led me to the remains of im-
portant ancient cities, had not before been traversed by
any European; and it is on this account alone that I am
induced to lay my Journal before the Public.
The country through which I travelled is that small
portion of Asia Minor (now known by the name of Ana-
dhouly) which lies between lat. 42° and 36°, and long. 26°
and 32°, including Lydia, Mysia, Bithynia, Phrygia, Pisidia,
Pamphylia, Lycia, and Caria. My route is marked in the
accompanying Map.
vi
PREFACE.
:
As the most interesting period of the history of this
country was the time of its occupation by the Greeks, so
the remains of their cities form now the chief attraction
to the traveller. These cities, some of them of very remote
antiquity, all had their origin prior to the Conquest of the
country by the Romans in the third century before the
Christian æra, after which time that people were nominally
the possessors of the country, and the Roman taste was
visibly encroaching on the Greek in works of art. About
the age of Constantine, the Christians began to produce a
still greater change in the architecture of the many cities
of which they had possession, including the Seven Churches
of the Apocalypse, piling up buildings in a style very
different from the pure Greek. Next came the Venetians,
whose slight fortifications, built of the remains of ruined
cities, are seen on every coast and in every important
mountain-pass. The conquest by the present occupants,
the Turks, succeeded in the fourteenth century. Their
architectural works are few, and of a character so peculiar
as to render them easily distinguishable from the earlier
buildings by which they are surrounded.
The descendants of the Greeks, the ancient possessors of
the soil, do not, I believe, now form a tenth part of the
population; their costume and even language are so lost by
mixture with the Turks, that these national peculiarities are
with difficulty traced. The Greeks generally wear colours.
not so gay as those of the Turks, frequently having the tur-
ban and Turkish trousers of black; green they are forbid-
den to use, that being the peculiar colour of a privileged
few among the followers of the Prophet.
PREFACE.
vii
It will be gathered from my Journal, that at the time of
my arrival in the country I was strongly biassed in favour
of the Greeks, and equally prejudiced against the Turks;
and it will be seen in the course of the narrative how this
unfavourable idea of the Turkish character was gradually
removed by a personal intimacy with the people, generally
in situations where they were remote from every restraint
but those which their religion imposes.
Of the country which I was entering I knew as little as
of its inhabitants, and this want of information may be
manifest in parts of my Journal; but I have given my
observations made on the spot, that the fidelity of the
descriptions may not be impaired. The Drawings intro-
duced have been selected from my sketch-book for the
purpose of illustration only. Those which represent the
sculptured remains found at Xanthus have been seen by
the Trustees of the British Museum, and I hear that on
their recommendation the Government has given directions
for having these monuments of ancient art brought to this
country; we may hope therefore to see them among the
treasures of our National Institution. I have added Trans-
lations of the Inscriptions which I copied on my tour, for
the elucidation of which I must acknowledge my great obli-
gations to my friend Mr. James Yates.
Had I been aware when I travelled through this district
how little it was known, I should have made more careful
observations of position and distance, to assist in mapping
the country; and I should have devoted more time to the
examination of inscriptions. I hope however that the par-
tial information which I can furnish, may induce other tra-
viii
PREFACE.
vellers better prepared than myself for antiquarian research
to turn their steps to this part of the world, which not only
abounds in interest connected with early history and poetry,
but is so rich in existing remains of past ages.
London, May, 1839.
PREFACE
ΤΟ
C. F.
AN ACCOUNT OF DISCOVERIES IN LYCIA.
ON my visit to Asia Minor in 1838, of which I gave an
account in my former Journal, I found that the district of
ancient Lycia was so rich in all that is most interesting to
the traveller, that, my time then allowing of only a short
excursion into it, I could not but feel a strong desire to re-
turn at a future day, and explore it more carefully.
This desire was increased when, on reaching England, I
learned how completely unknown this country is to modern
travellers, and how much importance the learned attached
to many of my discoveries.
On my second visit therefore to Asia Minor, in 1840 (the
account of which is given in the Journal now published), I
PREFACE.
ix
determined to turn my steps at once to Lycia; and I have, as
will be seen from the line of my route on the map, traversed
it in several directions. The new discoveries which I have
made on this excursion have richly rewarded me; and I am
led to believe that the materials for the historian, the philo-
logist, and the lover of art, which I have rescued from the
ruins I visited, will be found of no inconsiderable value.
The geographer will see that I have mapped the interior
of the country, which hitherto has been unknown, and left
blank in the maps: for the coast I am indebted to the ad-
mirable Survey of Captain Beaufort.
In this small province I have discovered the remains of
eleven cities not denoted in any map, and of which I believe
it was not known that any traces existed. These eleven,
with Xanthus and Tlos described in my former Journal, and
the eleven other cities along the coast visited by former
travellers, make together twenty-four of the thirty-six cities
mentioned by Pliny as having left remains still seen in his
age. I also observed, and have noticed in my Journal, many
other piles of ruins not included in the above numbers.
Many of the coins which I have found, and of which I
give copies in the following pages, were before unknown to
the numismatist, and others will enable him to assign place
and date to coins in various museums, which have before
been unexplained or erroneously attributed.
Of the beautiful sculptures and coloured bas-reliefs found
among the ruins, I have brought away numerous drawings,
with which my Journal is illustrated.
Some of the inscriptions, of which I took copies on this
tour, are of great value, as supplying a key to the hitherto
X
PREFACE.
unknown Lycian language, and others are important as
bearing upon, and in some instances elucidating very cu
riously, questions of remote history.
-
To Mr. Hermann Wiener I have great pleasure in ex-
pressing my acknowledgments for his translations of the
numerous Greek inscriptions which I copied; as I have to
my friend Mr. Daniel Sharpe, for his paper on the Lycian
inscriptions. I have also to thank Professor Don for kindly
furnishing me with the names and classes of the plants
which I collected, many of which he describes as of species
hitherto unknown.
London, April, 1841.
C. F.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
LYDIA.
Arrival at Smyrna.-Costume.-Description of the Town.-Casino
Ball.-Slave Market.-Manners of the People.-Greek Church.
-Antiquities.-Egyptian Customs.-Departure for Magnesia.-
Caravan Bridge.-Natural History on the way.—Khan at Mag-
nesia. Journey to Thyatira, one of the Seven Churches.-Its
Antiquities
CHAPTER II.
MYSIA.
Journey to Sóma.-Inscriptions.-Proceed to Pergamus.-Its
Antiquities and Situation.-A Khan.-Natural History of the
Country.-Adramyttium.-Assos.-Its Architectural Remains.
Its Tombs.-Manners of the People.-Alexandrian Troy.-
Its Ruins.-Hot Springs.-Stone Quarry with Columns.-
Enáe.-Implements and Customs of the Ancients retained.-
Plains of Troy.-Arrival at the Dardanelles.-Abydos and
its Antiquities
CHAPTER III.
CONSTANTINOPLE.
French Steamboat.-Arrival at Constantinople.-Climate.-De-
scription of the City.-Bazaars.-Change of Costume by the
Turks. Habits of the People.-Dancing Dervises.-Antiqui-
ties. The Sultan.-His Policy.-Situation of the City
PAGE
1
20
63
xii
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IV.
BITHYNIA.
Departure from Constantinople.-Burial-ground.-New Road.
Dil Ferry.-Manners of the People.-The Country.-Natural
History.-Arrival at Nicæa.-Its Remains.-Discovery of In-
scription.-Pass of the Mountain Lefky.-Vizier Khan.-Power
of the Firman.-Sohoot.
Plague.-Catchiburloo
CHAPTER V.
PHRYGIA.
A Forest.-Oneóenoo.-Singular Caves.-Mountains and Table-
lands.-Curious Geological Features.-Kootaya.-Extraordi-
nary Rocks.-Expedition to seek Doganlu.-Customs of the
People.—Æzani.—Its Antiquities.-Inscriptions. Habits of a
Private Family.-Delicacy of their Manners.-Departure for
Altuntash. Sichanlee. Sandookle. — Dumbari-ovasy. - The
CHAPTER VI.
PISIDIA.
Journey to Sparta.-Reception of a Governor at his Province.—
Honesty of the People.-Singular Pass of the Mountains.-
Alaysoón.-Ruins of Sagalassus.-Natural History
CHAPTER VII.
►
PAMPHYLIA.
Arrival at Boojak.-Visit to the Ruins of a splendid City, pro-
bably Selge.-Beermargy.-Descent of the Taurus Range.-
Plains of Pamphylia.-Adalia.-Visit to the Pasha.-Botany.-
Excursion to ancient Cities, probably Perge, Isionda, Ped-
nelissus, Syllium, Side, and Aspendus.-Return to Adalia.-
Domestic Manners of a Greek Family.-Departure
•
PAGE
77
92
120
127
CONTENTS.
Xill
da
CHAPTER VIII.
LYCIA.
Voyage to Phaselis.-Olympus.-Phineka Bay.—State of the
Peasantry.-Passage of the Mountains to Antiphellus.-Ruins
of Patera. City of Xanthus. Inscriptions and Curious
Sculpture.-Tombs.-Cottage.-Ancient Customs preserved.
-Explore the Valley of the Xanthus.-Ancient City of Tlos.
—Greek Superstitions.-Horses of the Country.—Macry, the
Ancient Telmessus.-Curious Tombs cut in the Rocks.
CHAPTER IX.
CARIA.
Route by Dollomon, Koogez, Hoola.-Variation of Season.-
Moola.-Gipsies.-Stratoniceia.-Its Ruins and Inscriptions.
-Mylasa.-Primitive Mode of Felling Timber.-Labranda.—
Kizzlejik and Baffy to Miletus.-Its Ruins.-Inhospitality of
the Peasantry.-Afterwards explained
•
ᏟᎻᎪᏢᎢᎬᎡ X.
SOUTH OF LYDIA.
•
LYDIA.
Priene.-Sansoon.-Thunder-storm.-Natural History.-Chanly.
-Scala Nuova.-Ephesus.-Its Remains. Idin, the Ancient
Tralles.—A Market-day.-Valley of the Meander
·
CHAPTER XI.
PART OF THE WEST OF PHRYGIA.
Caroura.-Valley of the Lycus.-Laodiceia-Remains. — Hiera-
polis.-Its Ruins.-Curious Hot Springs.-Vultures
CHAPTER XII.
b
·
Aneghool.--Philadelphia. — Opium-Gathering.-Sardis.-Its Re-
mains. Cavalcades of Travellers.-Camels.-Cassaba.-Return
to Smyrna.-Retrospect.-The People.-Climate.-Scenery
PAGE
157
184
200
209
216
xiv
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XIII.
Smyrna.-Climate.-Bazaars.-Horses.
Provisions. Ball.
Road to Thera, the Ancient Caystrus.-Passage of the Moun-
tains to Idin, the Ancient Tralles.-Tahir Pasha.-His Museum.
-Inscriptions.-Valley of the Mæander.-Sultan Hissá.—Sol-
diers.-Antiocheia.-The Valley of the Mosynus.-Karasoo.-
To Yeerah, the Ancient Aphrodisias
CHAPTER XIV.
The Ancient Aphrodisias.-Temple of Venus.-Pagan Age.-
Christian Age.-Present State.-Sarcophagi.-Natural History.
Karasoo.-Arrival of the New Firman or Code of Laws.-
Consequent Changes.-Return to the Valley of the Mæander.—
The River Harpasus.-Passage of the Mountains.-Valley of
the Marsyas
Madaga
CHAPTER XV.
Arab Hissá, Ancient Alabanda.
Ruins. Demmeerge-Derasy,
ancient Alinda.-Tombs.-Ruins.-Passage of the Mountains.
Mylasa. Temple of Labranda [?].-
-Unknown Ruins.
Ancient Remains.-Mausoleum
CHAPTER XVI.
Stratoniceia, its Ruins.-Route to Moolah.-Ancient Tombs.—
The Pasha.-Longevity.-Change in the Laws.-Detention
among the Peasants.-Music.-Dancing.-Customs.—Passage
of the River.-Dollomon
CHAPTER XVII.
Inconvenience for Want of Corn.-Ancient Tombs.-Customs of
the People.-Peculiar Architecture.-Discovery of Calynda.—
Natural History.-Telmessus.-Tombs, Works of Art.-Pecu-
liar Climate.-Hoozumlee.-Its Inhabitants.-State of the Arts
PAGE
231
251
266
281
CONTENTS.
IV
among the ancient Lycians. -Discovery of Cadyanda. — Its
Ruins.-Valley of the Xanthus.-Hoorahn.-Ancient Tombs
and Ruins of Araxa
CHAPTER XVIII.
Architecture; Rocks, Buildings, Cottages, Granaries.-Tlos.-
Rock-tombs.-Ancient Sculpture.-Minara, the Ancient Pinara.
-Ruins.-Bas-reliefs in Tombs.-Habits of the People
CHAPTER XIX.
Discovery of Sidyma.-Its Tombs.-Temples.-Natural History.
- Lions.-Ancient Fort. Xanthus. - Sarcophagus-tomb.
Lycian Inscription upon Obelisk. Ancient Sculptures.
Harpies. Chariots.- Animals. - Processions.- Tomb.-Cus-
toms of the Peasants
CHAPTER XX.
Patara.-Coins.-Passage of Mountains.-Discovery of the An-
cient Phellus.—Antiphellus.-Its Tombs.-Kastelorizo, the An-
cient Megiste.-Jewels and Costume of the Peasantry.-Cas-
sabar.-Ancient Trabala ?-Singular Gorge in the Mountains.
-Myra.-Tombs
CHAPTER XXI.
Ruins of Myra.-Tombs.-Coloured Bas-reliefs.-Ruins.-Passage
of Mountain to Phineka.-Ancient Isium?-Limyra.-Sculp-
tures and Inscription.-Ancient Bridge.-Gage.-Excursion by
the Promontarium Sacrum to Olympus.-A Deserted Village.-
Valley of the Arycandus.-Tombs.-Ruins.-Discovery of Ary-
canda.-Its Ruins
CHAPTER XXII.
Avelan.-Its Lake.-Extensive Plains.-Disappearance of a River.
-Almalee.-Its Population.-Mosques.-Trade.-Site of An-
cient City, probably Podalia.-Source of Rivers.-Passage of
PAGE
294
313
328
346
358
xvi
CONTENTS.
Mountain. High Plains.-The Yeeilassies.-Annual Migration
of the Tribes.—Valley of the Xanthus.-Macry. — Rhodes. —
City of Rhodes.-Sailors.-Lavisse.-Carmylessus. — Return
to the Yeeilassies.-Review of Lycia
CHAPTER XXIII.
Rhodes.-City of Rhodes.-Sailors.-Lavisse.-Carmylessus. -
Return to the Yeeilassies.-Review of Lycia
CHAPTER XXIV.
Gule-Hissá Ovassy.-A Large Lake.-Ancient River Calbis.-Ex-
tensive Plains. Carreeuke.-Its Bazaar.-Price of Cattle.
Customs of the People.-Denizlee.-Its Inhabitants.-Change
of Law.-Laodiceia.-Hierapolis.-Return to Smyrna
SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER.
Discoveries derived from the elucidation of the Lycian Inscrip-
tions.-Instructions for future Travellers.-Lists and Exami-
nation of Coins
•
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES; THEIR ACQUISITION, AND TRANSMIS-
SION TO ENGLAND
APPENDIX
ACCOUNT OF THE IONIC TROPHY MONUMENT EXCAVATED AT
XANTHUS
REMARKS FOR THE GUIDANCE OF TRAVELLERS
INDEX
•
•
·
PAGE
380
392
401
412
421
157
482
487
505
JOURNAL.
CHAPTER I.
LYDIA.
ARRIVAL AT SMYRNA. -COSTUME.-DESCRIPTION
OF THE TOWN.
CASINO
BALL.-SLAVE-MARKET,—MANNERS OF THE PEOPLE.
GREEK CHURCH.-ANTIQUITIES.EGYPTIAN CUSTOMS.-DEPARTURE
FOR MAGNESIA.-CARAVAN BRIDGE. NATURAL HISTORY ON THE
WAY.-KHAN AT MAGNESIA.—JOURNEY TO THYATIRA, ONE OF THE
SEVEN CHURCHES.-ITS ANTIQUITIES.
February 12th, 1838.-I am now in the Frank town of
Smyrna, having this evening set foot for the first time in
Asia Minor. The whole of the Greek islands which I have
passed since leaving Syra appeared barren and uncultivated,
with scarcely a tree to be seen. As we drew near the coast
of Asia Minor, the Bay of Smyrna came in sight, bounded
by mountains and woods, all green, rich, and beautiful. The
approach to the city is very imposing, and the multitude of
little boats scudding about, though not so picturesque as
those of the Italian or Greek isles, have a striking and cha-
racteristic effect; the boats being gaily painted, the men all
wearing turbans, and the women concealed in white drapery.
I can scarcely believe that I am in Asia Minor, for my inn
(the Navy Hotel) is just like an English public-house. I
have heard the guns firing and drums beating on board the
B
2
LYDIA.
different men-of-war stationed opposite to my window; and
the band of the Sapphire frigate has been playing "God
save the Queen," and "Home, sweet Home."
February 13th.-On looking out of my window this morn-
ing, I found that I was really in the East. I beheld a whole
city of Turks, a very gay scene; but the people struck me
as being disgustingly fat. The variety of costume, occa-
sioned by the different orders or sects of the Turks, is quite
curious. It would be an endless task to describe the va-
rieties, all very unlike the European; and nothing but the
pencil could convey an idea of the various head-dresses. I
have just seen a man with a turban, which I took for a small
sack of flour placed upon his head. The women, although
they contrive to have a good view of strangers at a distance,
cover up all but one eye as they approach; and some are
always thus ensconced, having a horse-hair mask or cowl
over the upper part of the face, and the lower part concealed
in the same white sheet which covers the rest of the body.
The dresses are splendidly embroidered, a Turk thinking
it nothing extraordinary to give fifteen or twenty pounds.
for a jacket. I saw a child whose clothes must have cost
sixty or seventy pounds, the embroidery being a mass of
gold, and one set of clothes was put over another: the child
was not above eight years old, but was probably the pet of
some wealthy merchant. The expenditure of the Turks in
dress is enormous, and of the Greeks also; at Syra I saw a
celebrated Albanian chief of great wealth in his full dress,
which I heard, independently of the jewels, was worth many
hundred pounds.
Smyrna is a thickly inhabited town, and the streets are
extremely narrow and dirty. The appearance of the people
generally seems to me not pleasing; there is no trace of
simplicity of manners, but they look as if they had always.
lived in the bustle of commerce. I do not like any trait in
the character of the Turks which I have yet seen; what a
#
SMYRNA.
3
contrast do they form to the Greeks, who appear all intelli-
gence, and who are certainly simple and unaffected! At Syra
a little boy, eight or nine years of age, acted for an hour as
cicerone to our party, and on dismissing him I gave him a
piastre, a coin of less value than twopence-halfpenny of our
money; on taking it he looked gravely in my face, and tears
glistened in his eyes; he kissed my hand, and then pressed
it to his forehead; it would require a far larger sum here to
obtain such an expression of gratitude.
The town of Smyrna, which I have now viewed from all
sides, in situation is beautiful, but in appearance is exactly
like a large town of Swiss chalets. The houses are very
much alike, and all of wood, with brown roofs and without
chimneys. The few tiers of warehouses on the Marina or
quay are whitened over, but these also are built of wood,
the better to bear the shaking of the earthquakes. I do not
think that there is a house more than one story above the
ground-floor in the town; the ground-floor is always the
bazaar or store-house, the residence being above. The
churches, with the exception of the mosques, are like wooden
barns, and without tower or belfry.
I have been admitted to the Casino or public rooms, where
there are papers, card-rooms, and billiards, and invited to a
ball there on Monday, previously to which I am to dine with
our kind and attentive Consul, Mr. Brant. I have been in-
troduced to many Europeans here; their manners are pe-
culiar, and not pleasing, displaying the caution of the Eng-
lish merchant, without the varied acquirements which in
England are united with mercantile habits. The Frank
people here, having no interest in the country they inhabit,
and no voice even in the local government of the town,
devote their thoughts wholly to business; their goods are all
the stake they have, and even this interest is limited by the
climate and government; no one has a house of value, for
the frequent earthquakes place them in jeopardy; and ships
B 2
4
LYDIA.
of every nation are constantly stationed here, that, on any
outbreak of the Turks or the plague, they may at a moment's
notice put all they possess on board.
I have inquired of several gentlemen for some ruins dis-
covered about two years ago in or near the town; some had
only heard there were such ruins, others said they were by
the Castle Hill, but they had never been to that point, or
not for several years past; yet the Castle Hill is not half a
mile from the centre of the city, and is the only point com-
manding a view of the town or country; it has consequently
been my daily walk.
I have been much surprised by finding really beautiful
suites of rooms forming the houses of the gentry here; they
consist of long corridors, opening into apartments generally
of excellent proportions; all these are over the warehouses,
and have no rooms above them.
The Casino Ball was extremely gay; many of the women,
and particularly the middle-aged and old, wore the Greek
costume, which is very elegant, although custom has preju-
diced me in favour of the more compressed waist. The gold-
embroidered skull-cap, the braided turban of hair blended
with flowers and jewels, the velvet jacket, richly embroidered,
with the gay mameluke sleeves, form a strikingly beautiful
dress. The band from the Sapphire frigate, and the officers
in their uniform, added to the gaiety of the room.
I came
away at about one, but find that most of my friends re-
mained until five, and some until seven o'clock. I have had
much attention paid to me, and can truly join with all other
visitors of Smyrna in acknowledging the hospitality of its
inhabitants.
Before the ball I dined at the Consul's, with a large party
of English, principally officers of the army and navy. When
dinner was over (at about eight o'clock) the Governor of
Smyrna sent to know if he might pay the Consul a visit,
who first asked our consent, and then the Governor was
4.3) wash over
SMYRNA.
5
LO
ushered into the room. He takes every opportunity of
showing respect to the English, and now came to request
to be allowed to go to the ball with the Consul. He is an
old, merry-looking fellow, but yet with the appearance of
deep cunning. He was dressed for the ball in the very un-
dress costume of the Turkish Government,—blue cloth
clothes and red cap; but he was distinguished by a splendid
locket of diamonds, and rings of the same stone. As soon
as he had, by his interpreter, welcomed us all, his pipe-bearer
handed him his pipe, which was of great value, having the
mouth-piece of lemon-coloured amber, encircled with dia-
monds. He refused to drink wine, and persisted in decli-
ning; but, fortunately for him, rum and brandy are not ver-
bally forbidden by the Prophet. The Chief Judge of the
town afterwards called, attended by his suite. These two
men are despotic, the one condemning and the other exe-
cuting at his pleasure. The Governor farms his town of the
Sultan, paying a certain sum for the year, and makes what
he can of the taxes, fees, and fines; immense fortunes are
thus made in a short time, frequently in the most tyrannical
way; but the Governor's power only extends over Asiatics.
Life and death are in his hands; but money will always
satisfy him, and he alone has to be satisfied.
With the Slave-market I was not so much shocked as I
expected, and noticed that the children seemed healthy and
happy. I never saw negroes so black; their skin was bright,
and looked as if it had just been black-leaded and well
brushed; they had beautiful teeth, and the necks and wrists
of the children were ornamented with beads; there were only
thirty or forty slaves in the market, and these all young.
The people, from their custom of sitting cross-legged, and
having their feet generally bare, make much use of them. I
observed the men who were working the lathe, in turning
the amber mouth-pieces for the pipes, press the chisel always
with the toes, which were applied as quickly and as dexter-
6
LYDIA.
ously as the fingers. With all four paws together at work,
they reminded me of the Sun Bears at the Zoological Gar-
dens eating an orange. The tailors iron their work by put-
ting one foot into the iron, and working it about, while with
their hands they are arranging the plaits and braiding. The
weight carried by the porters in Smyrna is wonderful; I
never saw such burdens borne by men, or men apparently so
able to bear them; the development of muscle in their naked
legs amounts almost to deformity.
On buying a pair of slippers, I was told that last year
they were not above two-thirds of their present price, but
that so many workmen died during the last season, that all
manufactured articles had become dearer. Fourteen thou
sand Turks and a thousand persons of other nations are said
to have died in Smyrna alone.
The children are still brought up in national prejudices;
they hoot after a European and call him Frank, Frank-dog,
and other such epithets. One little monkey gave me a smart
stroke on the back with his stick, but he was soon laughed
into a friendly temper. They are afraid of the consequences
of their impertinence, and generally secure a retreat behind
some door-way before they even call after the stranger. The
men are however losing many of these prejudices. To-day,
whilst I was sketching (which is an act forbidden by their
religion), several Turks came and watched me for half an
hour, and expressed their delight at any new object which
they recognized. I was putting in some shipping in the
distance, and as I drew each vessel, although on an extremely
small scale, they told me what ships they were with great
satisfaction; they also recognised several views I had pre-
viously taken.
The society of an infidel is not, as formerly, shunned by the
Turk, and their commercial intercourse is daily increasing;
they naturally appear more suspicious of the Greek than or
other nations.
SMYRNA.
7
The annoyances to which a Frank is subject on entering
the mosques here are so great, that I shall delay visiting them
until I arrive at Constantinople. I see the Turks bare-
footed, and kneeling round the doors and in the colonnades
and lobbies round the mosques; there is much devotion in
their attitudes and appearance.
The three classes of people here, the Turks, Jews, and
Christians, have each their own Sabbath,-Friday, Saturday,
and Sunday. There is in consequence little observance of
any one of the days in the town as a whole.
I have witnessed a splendid funeral of a wealthy Greek,
in which all the church power was engaged, including the
highest authority, an archbishop I believe. In the Greek
church the dresses are more splendid than in the Romish,
but the whole effect is quite in contrast. In this church
there is not the slightest semblance of devotional feeling,
less even than in the Synagogue worship. The priests are
ordinary-looking men of the world; they sing the service in
merry time, in a common but rather nasal tone, and look
about them as if they were in the crowded streets instead of
a place of worship. They are honest-looking men, but have
nothing of the priest about them; a long black beard seemed
to be a distinctive part of their costume. There is a great
deal of bowing and kissing of hands; but all the recitations
seemed addressed to one another, and I did not see an up-
lifted eye or any attitude of adoration. There is no altar,
and therefore no fixed point for prayer. A candle, which is
merely a waxed piece of cotton, is given to every person on
entering, and they all keep their hats on during the cere-
mony. Celibacy is not enjoined upon the priesthood by the
Greek Church; and from their appearance I should say,
that they are more in their element in the noise and bustle
of trade and of their families than in the offices of the
church. A more different race of beings from the priests of
Rome cannot well be imagined.
8
LYDIA.
Camels are the only carriages in Smyrna, if I may use the
expression, and you not unfrequently meet eight or nine
hundred in the course of a walk. The streets are so narrow,
that an European, unaccustomed to these animals, requires
some nerve when walking under their necks, or standing be-
tween them and the wall, while they pass in long strings
with their bulky bales of goods suspended from either side.
The sheep of the country are the Cape sheep, having a kind
of apron tail, entirely of rich marrowy fat, extending to the
width of their hind-quarters, and frequently trailing on the
ground; the weight of the tail is often more than six or
eight pounds. The common pigeon here is the turtle-dove.
In all the confined seas in the Mediterranean I have ob-
served the phosphoric light sparkling in the waves caused by
our paddle-wheels; but in the sea here the boats are actually
lighted by the illumination from the motion of the oar in the
water; and a belt of light, some inches in width, is drawn
around the boat by its motion, whilst a stream of light fol-
lows its course.
The walls of all the buildings in the upper part of the
town are formed out of the ruins of ancient Smyrna; and
columns, busts, cornices, and entablatures are seen built in
everywhere, and mixed indiscriminately with the volcanic
stone of the country. The features of the busts are gene-
rally destroyed, to satisfy the scruples of their present owners,
the Turks. Hundreds of tombstones are constructed of the
ornamental parts of ancient temples, all of white marble.
The Jews have bought one hill, formed of a pile of ruins of
marble, for tombs for their burial-ground. Near the town I
observed a wall loosely built of stone, and thinking that it
looked of a lighter colour than the common stone of the
neighbourhood, I went to examine it. It was composed of
what appeared to be flat stones, about three inches thick,
and all of conglomerate or grout; but to my astonishment I
found that the surface of every piece (some were two feet
SMYRNA.
9
きっか
​long) was formed entirely of mosaic-work, with beautiful
patterns in black, white, and red. There must have been
hundreds of feet of this, which had no doubt formed the
floor of some temple or bath in the immediate neighbour-
hood, probably of the Temple of Ceres, which is said to
have stood here. These blocks of mosaic now form the
walls of a corn-field, out of which they must have been dug,
for I observed that the small pebbles in the soil were all
square pieces of marble of the same size as the stones of
the mosaic. Here I saw the top of an arch, with the capitals
of its columns only visible above-ground, and twenty or
thirty feet of loose soil around it, containing the ruins of
ancient art. Yet no one had been found even to remove
the soil, to show the proportions of the building; and this on
the side of so steep a hill, that probably the rain will soon
do what man has not had taste and energy to attempt: the
people now prop up the soil of the hill with the capitals of
columns or cornices as they are laid bare.
The spring is rapidly opening; and I have observed today
a number of people with flowers tucked most tastefully into
their turbans; anemone, jonquil, and iris adding to the end-
less variety and gaiety of the head-dress. The Greek women
form their own hair, of which they have a profusion, into a
turban, intermingling it very elegantly with flowers, ribbon,
or gauze, and generally putting at the top a skull-cap of gold
embroidery. The children have many gold and silver coins.
suspended from the head by cords of hair; and some have
their hair in twenty or thirty thin plaits hanging down the
back, as it was worn by the ancient Egyptians. The edges
of the eyelids also are painted by the Turkish women exactly
as was done by that nation.
I have several times seen the dance so well described by
Mr. Lane as performed by the dancing-girls in Egypt; the
dance, music, and costume are precisely the same here.
February 21st.-Tomorrow I shall leave Smyrna for Mag-
B 3
10
LYDIA.
nesia*. I was to have started this morning, and the horses
were brought to the door; but the wind from the north-east,
in which direction we were to travel, was so high and so
intensely cold that we could not face it. Ice covers every
pool, and even the streams are frozen; as the sea is dashed
up by the wind upon the Marina it immediately forms a coat
of ice. Walking to the south of the town I passed the Jews'
burial-ground, which I before noticed, and was much struck
by its appearance. It is a hill of almost bare rock, of about a
mile in extent, and every level spot has a marble slab upon it.
The first idea that the place gave me was its strong resem-
blance to the pictures of the Resurrection; thousands of
| tombstones cover the ground, and in as many forms; from
the hardness of the rock, the grave is generally constructed
above the surface, perhaps a foot high, and covered with a
marble slab; but grave and slab have been continually torn
up by the Turks; few remain above a year undisturbed, and
they seem the stone quarry for the walls and paving in the
neighbourhood. I saw several in the street near, with dates
less than two years old, now torn up and used for building
purposes.
Scarcely one of these tombstones is without some trace of
its earlier history; many have upon them Greek or Roman
letters, parts of inscriptions; and cornices, flutings, capitals,
or shafts of columns may be recognized in almost all of them.
* Throughout my Journal I have made use of the ancient names of
places, as being the best known to English readers, from association
both with classic and sacred history. When I have used the modern
names (which alone are known to the Turks) I have endeavoured to
represent the sound of the word in their language by a combination of
our letters in such a manner as will not allow of more than one pro-
nunciation; and in attempting this I have disregarded the orthography
of modern maps, which give names unknown in the country, and useless
to the traveller. In pronunciation I have presumed that the vowels
will be sounded as in the English alphabet. In the few instances in
which the a has to be sounded broad, as in father, it is put in italic.
SMYRNA.
11
I walked up the hill, and there found the quarry which the
Jews had used, on the site of most extensive temples, now
only to be recognized by high hills of white chippings, and
long deep trenches, from which even the foundations have
been greedily dug up; a lime-kiln close by had received.
many relics of marble too small for the purpose of tomb-
stones.
The view of Smyrna from these heights is very imposing,
and this point, as is usual in the sites of Greek temples, is
chosen with admirable judgement both for seeing from and
for being seen.
I have spoken with many enlightened men here, who
much regretted the insensibility of the residents to the arts.
and sciences; but all say, "We have a glorious sun above
our heads and perfect liberty." Each nation has its own
idea of liberty; the Englishman's liberty extends to all those
around him; exclusive liberty in a state is by him received
as the proof of the worst tyranny. I could not boast of
liberty where those around me were treated as the Turk-
ish law allows, or while the slave-market stood open in the
town.
February 22nd.—Having breakfasted and packed, which
latter is a serious matter with the Turks, I started from the
inn at half-past eight o'clock. The first horse was ridden by
a black-looking surly Turk, our guide, mounted on a saddle
or pile of cloaks and padding, which was a sufficient burden
for the horse without the rider; then followed the baggage-
horse, bearing my canteen, tent, hammock and mattress,
carpet-bag, and saddle-bags containing provisions; this ap-
peared the slightest-made horse, but was the strongest and
best suited to its work. My servant and interpreter, Deme-
trius Scufi*, had a most complete establishment on his saddle,
* Demetrius Scufi was an excellent travelling servant in every depart-
ment; the character of a servant in a country like this is unknown, and
difficult to conceive, to those who have always travelled with the accom-
12
LYDIA.
of holsters (used only as bags for knife, string, etc. for the
road), and long leathern cases for his umbrella and pipe;
over his shoulders was slung a capital double-barrelled gun.
I followed on the fourth horse, equipped as an European ;
having purchased for myself saddle and bridle, which articles
the Turks never provide with the horses.
At nine o'clock we arrived at the Caravan Bridge, an
object picturesque in itself, and highly interesting to the
people of Smyrna, as it is the land-gate or entrance to the
city, and all the produce of the East which is shipped from
Smyrna necessarily passes over this bridge. A toll or tax
is here levied by the Government upon all caravans, the
payment of which gives the title to depasture the camels,
free of charge, all over the Sultan's dominions. It is a
common and characteristic wish of the people to possess the
value transported during one day over this bridge. The
continual passing of the camels, and necessary halt for trans-
acting the business required by the collector of the toll,
make this at all times an animated scene. The Greeks also
frequent this neighbourhood on their gala days, and I have
here on such occasions witnessed much dancing and festivity
among the lower orders.
After crossing the bridge the road increased in beauty
every mile, as we traversed the valley and ascended the
mountains to the north-east. For the first ten miles Smyrna,
with its rich and beautiful valley, was behind us, and con-
modations met with in Europe; it combines interpreter, cook, tailor,
and valet, sportsman, secretary, and companion. Demetrius was a man
of good private property, and had his house and little estate near Smyrna,
and his two pleasure-horses. He travelled con amore, and had pursued
this profession for the last fifteen years in all quarters of the globe, and
had been several times to England. He was a native of Hydra, but had
spent his life in Smyrna. I paid him a dollar a day,—a remuneration
I
which, from his great knowledge of travelling and perfect honesty,
consider more economical than the lower price which is usually paid to
an inferior person.
SMYRNA TO MAGNESIA.
13
tinually showed itself in such an attractive variety of views,
that I was often tempted to stop and turn to retrace my
steps over the country, which lay spread out like a map.
The predicted destruction of the port of Smyrna, by the
promontory formed from the deposit which the river Hermus
brings down, is strongly confirmed by the view from this
point. Time alone is required to complete the work, and
this is constant and irresistible in its effect. The villages,
in which are the country residences of the merchants of
Smyrna, furnish conspicuous points of beauty in this exten-
sive landscape. When about twelve miles on our route, we
halted for half an hour in a valley considerably elevated
amidst the hills. The spot was beautiful, and surrounded
by well-grown cypress and plane trees. After again passing
a succession of hills, the rich and extensive valley of the
Hermus opened before us. The descent into the valley was
picturesque, wild, and in many parts precipitous. At half-
past five we arrived at the ancient Magnesia, now called
Manser. The rocks we passed on leaving Smyrna are lime-
stone, although the hill on which the castle stands, and
several others, are of a volcanic earth or stone, much resem-
bling granite, and of a dark colour. As we left the valley
the hills became almost naked limestone, so white and soft
that it seemed to split and crumble as if it had been burnt
and was ready for the process of slacking. I saw no trace
of fossil remains of any kind. Suddenly, after passing a
small valley near the summit, all the range of hills became
of a slaty rock, reddish in colour, and so contorted, that on
first seeing it at the bottom of a brook I supposed it the
trunk of an old tree: but I soon found myself in a ravine,
cut or worn through the hill, consisting entirely of this
schisty slate, which in places was so twisted that it appeared
knotted together and writhing into circles and curves in
every direction; part of it is shot through with veins of
beautiful white marble, varying from an eighth of an inch
14
LYDIA.
•
to some feet in thickness. It is crystallized, sparkling at every
fracture. Has not the same agency caused both these effects?
In the valley formed and still forming by the river are rolled
down large stones of this red slate, tied round as it were in
all directions by white cords of marble; large green-coloured
stones of the same kind are also rolled from other neigh-
bouring hills. Among the first rocks of limestone that we
passed were many loose blocks of petrified vegetable sub-
stances, forming a spongy stone, as also masses of pebbles
cemented by the same limy matrix; these were near streams
strongly charged with particles of lime, which run in all
directions, and therefore are probably not very old, nor far
from their birth-place.
The fig, vine, and olive enrich this valley, surrounded by
the less profitable plane, wild pear, and stone-pine. I feel
quite sure that the latter is the fir in its natural growth,
which I never could see in that state in Italy; even when
found in a wood, as is the case near Ravenna, it is always
trimmed up to the top, which makes it look like an umbrella.
The hills on the limestone side were green as summer,
covered with clusters of a dwarf oak*, clothed with ex-
tremely small leaves, and so like a miniature holly that until
I saw the acorns I fancied it of that species. There were
also the juniper, the myrtle, and the oleander; but on the
slate rock, although the aspect was the same, the mountains
were richly embrowned with the dead leaves of the dwarf
oak. The anemones of various colours, and the small dark
yellow crocus, made the ground begin to look gay; but the
ice was still upon all the pools, and in the evening it was
intensely cold. Several times during this ride, upon the
baggage getting loose on the horse, I met with instances
of the civility of the Turks, who proffered their assistance
with cord or whatever was wanted, and at other times offered
* Quercus.
SMYRNA TO MAGNESIA.
15
us water, never expecting remuneration for their attention.
I should mention however that on one occasion, when a man
came out of a hut and begged to present me with a beautiful
brace of red-legged partridges*, a species common in some
parts of England, my servant Demetrius refused to receive
them, and told me that such presents were always dear, as
the giver expected more than their value.
As we approached Manser we met many trains of natives
on asses, with strings of camels, and saw every indication of
a large and busy town. On the road-side were buffalos
feeding, smaller than those in Calabria, and without the
hump; these, although equally unamiable in their appearance,
are much more tame and useful. I saw several with their
calves, and others which are evidently used for milking.
The town of Magnesia lies along the foot of a fine range
of hills, backed by the almost perpendicular face of a rocky
mountain (Mount Sipylus), whose top is now slightly capped
with snow.
At apparently inaccessible places on this cliff
are many entrances to artificial caves cut in the shape of
doors, evidently tombs of a very early date. The town has
a great number of minarets of mosques, and more and better
public buildings than Smyrna. I am now in a very fine
building, the public khan. It is as extensive as any Italian
palace, and built entirely of stone and iron; each room is
dome-topped, with iron gratings and shutters to the win-
dows, and an iron door, which was unlocked by a black
slave with immense keys; the heavy door opened and I
walked in, as if into a prison, but found it so clean, that
although it offered little more than bare walls, I liked its
appearance better than that of any house I had seen for
months. Mats were spread on the floor, and unfolding my
stores, all other comforts, together with an excellent dinner,
were quickly supplied. For the first time I am lying on my
* Perdix rufus.
16
LYDIA.
travelling mattress, and surrounded by pens, ink, and paper,
with
my canteen for a table; but I shall have other khans
to describe probably different from this, and the present may
give but little idea of the accommodations in travelling in
this country. Manser is a very extensive place, but the
houses are wholly built of mud, and the streets here, as in all
the towns that I have yet seen, are covered over from house
to house with canvas, mats, or vines on trellis, shading the
street from the sun; and thus the shops only are visible to the
traveller, who can gain but an imperfect view of the town.
February 23rd.-From Manser we started before nine
o'clock, well-mounted, and traversed the valley directly
north. At two miles' distance we crossed the river Hermus
by a wooden bridge, and almost immediately after, its tribu-
tary the Hyllus, by a ferry; the latter is larger than the
main river, which it joins within a furlong of the ferry. The
valley over which we continued to ride must be at least
twelve miles directly across from Manser, but we bore to the
eastward up the valley of the Hyllus. The land is excellent,
and I scarcely saw a stone during the first eighteen miles.
Cotton and corn grow luxuriantly, but there are few trees
except the willow and pollard poplar.
At the solitary stable or rest-house half-way to Acsá, (the
ancient Thyatira, one of the Seven Churches,) I found the
well-coping formed of the capital of a column of white
marble veined with red. A burial-ground adjoining was
filled with triglyphs and columns of a similar stone, and the
people said that they were brought from Sardis; but this is
scarcely probable, as they would have had to be carried a
very considerable distance. My informant said that within
a few miles were some ruins, (from the direction, perhaps
Apollonis,) and that much stone was fetched from thence.
The valley along which I was now travelling inclined to
the north-east, and became much narrower; at times it was
intersected by the lengthened feet of the hills, on either side
MAGNESIA TO THYATIRA.
17
showing bare rocks of white marble, sometimes with veins
of red, but with no appearance of the crystallization which
I noticed near Mount Sipylus. Following the course of the
river, the banks of which were of a white drifting sand, the
débris of the marble, I passed over the stream, and crossed
an extent of bleak, uncultivated country. Two Turks look-
ing wild with fear stopped us, and said they had just been
robbed of all their money and baggage by two men, and that
three others were in the same gang. Although our import-
ance as Europeans would be some protection, from the in-
quiries which would be made if anything were to befall us,
nevertheless Demetrius, whose gun had already killed a
couple of wild ducks and a starling, and who had loaded for
more of the feathered race, at once added some buttons as
bullets to his charge; I covered my watch-strings, and we all
kept together to make our party appear the more imposing.
We made inquiry of two other Turks, who had seen the
robbers, and had in consequence made a circuit; they attri-
buted their safety however to their show of pistols, which,
like those of all their nation, were awfully large and very
handsome. We passed on, and neither saw nor heard more
of the robbers, who I strongly suspect never existed.
The country as we approached Acsá became very low and
marshy, and seemed only occupied by wild ducks, swans,
plovers, and water-hens. For some miles we passed over a
paved road, for the most part of stones rounded by the
rivers; but along the edge of the road, which was built up
with more care, I frequently saw marble cornices and beau-
tifully cut stones; and in the walls and burial-ground at the
entrance of the town there were numerous pieces of columns,
many of granite, stuck in the ground as Turkish grave-
stones. The scenery has been all day extremely beautiful,
and the land, which is always rich, would be valuable if suf
ficiently cultivated, but it is much neglected. The distant
mountains bounding the valleys only varied in beauty.
18
LYDIA.
Within a few miles of this town I saw the trace of a cart-
wheel, and I find that such vehicles are occasionally used
here in husbandry; these are the first carriages I have seen
or heard of in Asia Minor; and here there are no roads, but
the produce is carried from the field to the farm, and then
rolled into the town in carts, the street being made wide
enough to admit them.
We arrived at Acsá at five o'clock, after travelling thirty-
six miles, much of the way at the rate of six miles an hour.
This town teems with relics of a former splendid city,
although there is not a trace of the site of any ruin or early
building. In a portion not exceeding one-third of a burial-
ground I counted one hundred and thirty parts of columns;
and upon measuring them, and noticing their orders, I found
that seven or eight distinct temples or buildings must have
contributed; one Corinthian column was flat at each angle,
ready for fluting, but only in part finished. The streets are
in places paved with fragments of carved stone.
I saw
several columns of granite, some of red-veined white marble,
and some of grey and white; also small columns, or rather
two-third pilasters, I fancy of a later date than the other
remains *.

For two miles out of the town the mouths or curbs of the
wells are formed of the capitals of extremely fine Corinthian
* I have since found this kind of column an unerring indication of
the Christian age; it probably formed a part of the interior ornament
of the church.
MAGNESIA TO THYATIRA.
19
pillars, the bucket being drawn through holes cut in the
centre. I was prevented from sketching many that I ad-
mired by the rain, which continued during the day.
Just before I left, the ex-governor was escorted out of the
town in state by all the Turkish grandees of the place, about
thirty in number, in full dress, well-mounted and ostenta-
tiously armed, producing a fine effect,
20
CHAPTER II.
MYSIA.
JOURNEY TO SÓMA. -INSCRIPTIONS.-PROCEED TO PERGAMUS.-ITS
ANTIQUITIES AND SITUATION.—A KHAN.—NATURAL HISTORY OF
THE COUNTRY. -ADRAMYTTIUM.-ASSOS.-ITS ARCHITECTURAL RE-
MAINS.ITS TOMBS. MANNERS OF THE
· PEOPLE.
PEOPLE. ALEXANDRIAN
TROY. ITS RUINS.-HOT-SPRINGS.-STONE QUARRY WITH COLUMNS.
-ENAE.-IMPLEMENTS AND CUSTOMS OF THE ANCIENTS RETAINED.
-PLAINS OF TROY.-ARRIVAL AT THE DARDANELLES.-ABYDOS AND
ITS ANTIQUITIES.
-
February 24th.-Travelling W.N.W. from Thyatira, we rode
for several miles over low bog-land, at a foot-pace; then
quitting the level, we gradually ascended to a rich cultivated
country, which became more picturesque as we passed over
a range of limestone hills. At about twenty miles' distance
a splendid and extensive valley opened upon us, in which
appeared, not far off, Kírkagatch, and immediately before
us Bakir.
All the Turkish towns I have seen have, in their style of
building, the appearance of Swiss villages, with the excep-
tion only of the white mosque towers: the towns before us
resembled them in situation also, being at the feet of very
high rocky mountains, and the valley in the front of them
being bounded by another exquisitely beautiful range. I
have nowhere seen valleys so wide, rich, and cultivated as
in this part of Asia Minor. Cotton seems the principal
produce.
THYATIRA TO PERGAMUS.
21
Passing Kírkagatch, we kept close under the cliffs, which
were of white marble, but in places stained almost scarlet
with a kind of ochre, and in some parts yellow, the veins
or perhaps original cracks being saturated with this stain;
this is evidently the source of the varied stripes in the
marbles seen in the ruins in the neighbourhood. I should
have been disposed to think that this is also the cause of
the masses of perfectly red marble (rosso antico), which lie
about in all directions, carried down by the rivers from the
mountains; but that I have frequently seen these red blocks
themselves veined with white.
The stone-pine is extremely fine here, and the colour the
most lively yet rich green that can be imagined; in the long
spines are frequently seen tufts as large as a bird's nest;
I opened one, and found that it contained some hundreds of
full-grown caterpillars comfortably housed for the winter.
The hedges are of a small kind of arbutus and jasmine, with
myrtles, clematis, and other shrubs that I have before men-
tioned; the walnuts are magnificent, as well as the planes*,
which I have not seen growing wild in any other country.
About eight miles more, making thirty-two in all, brought
us to Sóma, at three o'clock, having ridden the distance in
six hours. Since losing the traces of Acsá, I have seen no
relics of antiquity, even in the most certain haunts, the
burial-grounds, nor are any visible in this town. I was
shown into a one-arched vault, about a hundred feet long
and twenty-five wide, now used as a stable; it has three
groins or projecting arches, rising on each side from as
many marble pedestals, which I find are square, and let
two-thirds into the wall, so as to appear like pilasters. On
these are some Greek inscriptions. I have taken an im-
pression of one by placing paper over the stone, and then
rubbing the paper with a mixture of black-lead and soap.
I imagine the building to be a work of the Romans, and that
* Platanus orientalis.
22
MYSIA.
these altar-shaped stones are old Greek materials used by
them*
Hearing that there were some ruins within three miles
of this place, I walked to the spot, passing up one of the
beautiful dells so peculiar to a mountain-limestone country,
clothed with such planes and walnuts as I never before saw.
I reached at length a crow's nest town on the peak of a rock,
surrounded on all sides by mountains, and so completely
shut in that I could not see the ravine by which I had ap-
proached. Probably the people had never seen Europeans,
for the whole town came out to look at us. The remains
were evidently Byzantine, having stone ornaments with birds
and snakes fighting, and the knotted arabesque patterns and
rude carving of that age. In the street, for a horse-block,
stood a marble pedestal, the wrong end upwards, with a Greek
inscription, in form and age the same as those in Sóma†.
I am now in a little room in the khan at Sóma, where, on
my return, I found a couple of excellent wild ducks ready
for my dinner, which soon disappeared. It is about nine
feet square, and is now fully furnished, though I found only
bare walls. Demetrius is snoring at my feet, with his gun
and saddle-bags hanging over his head; the contents of the
canteen are arranged in readiness for my breakfast, and I
am sitting with my canteen-box as my table, and writing by
the luxurious but inconsistent light of wax candles, enjoying
thoroughly the comfort of dry clothes, after having been all
day wet through. My candles were purchased at Smyrna,
and are "patent wax with twisted wicks," from England.
Probably the wicks may have been in this country before.
I understand that the people of Asia Minor find the Eng-
* The translation of the inscription I copied is as follows:-"Onesimus,
the father, and Chryseis, the mother, made [this tomb] for their sweetest
child Polychronius, for the sake of remembrance, and for themselves."
+ The translation is as follows:-"Pompeius [erected this tomb] to
his own [son ?], at his own expense, for the sake of remembrance."
THYATIRA TO PERGAMUS.
23
lish patent wax candles cheaper and better than their own;
this is also the case in Italy.
On leaving Sóma, after a gentle rise from the valley, a
new and beautiful country opened before me, not so bold,
but more expanded, and surrounded by a chain of moun-
tains. I saw the plains of Pergamus, watered by the
Caicus and its tributary streams; we crossed one of them,
or rather passed its source; it sprung up by the road-side
so strongly, that within fifty yards it turned a mill, and was
a stream a foot deep and ten or twelve wide. It is said to
be tepid, but I did not stop to take out my thermometer.
The birds here are all either very bold or very tame, not
moving until you are close to them. Three large eagles sat
by the road, and did not rise until we were so near that we
could almost feel the wafting of their immense wings; the
noise was startling, but our horses were not timid. I had
never before been so near eagles at liberty, and this was on
an open plain; but rocky mountains shadowed us, in the
craggy sides of which these aspirants soon found their
home. We had a delightful ride of seven hours and a half,
about thirty-two miles, through a country so swampy with
the heavy rains of yesterday that we had to travel slowly.
The road varied but little in interest until within eight miles
of this place, the ancient Pergamus, now Bérgama; nor did
we see even in the burial-grounds any trace of what my
servant calls "old stones;" but on stopping at that point to
let the horses drink, I observed that the trough was the in-
verted lid of a sarcophagus; and a little further on I had
the baggage unpacked, and remained an hour to copy some
long Greek inscriptions built sideways into a fountain*.
* One inscription appears to relate to the planting of a garden with
cypresses at a certain period, and to its boundary, together with dwell-
ings annexed to it. Another is as follows:
"May it be fortunate.
"In the Treasuryship of Demetrius, on the second day of the month
24
MYSIA.
Vegetation is rapidly bursting into life; the laburnum,
which is here dwarf, is coming into leaf; the olive and fig
grow wild. We met several caravans of camels, loaded with
cotton. Each camel carries three hundred and sixty okes,
or about half a ton weight, for a day together without
stopping to rest.
P
Pergamus, February 26th.-I am again in a khan, and
must say that I never liked an inn half so much; it is plea-
sant to see all the furniture around me my own, and to feel
that my room is my castle. Here the traveller finds only
bare walls, with a few nails arranged for hanging things
upon.
When I return from the stroll I generally take, to stretch
my legs after the day's ride, I find carpet, bedding, and
writing apparatus arranged for me, and a meal prepared in
a room that appears well furnished: and I have no fear of
leaving anything behind, for I take everything in the room
Thargelion, Alexon, son of Damon, declared it to be a law for relations
by marriage [?], that the female mourners should wear clean grey
cloth:
that the men and boys engaged in the mourning should also wear grey,
unless they prefer white; that they should perform the rites appointed
by law for the departed at the latest in three months; that the men
should terminate their mourning in the fourth month, and the women
in the fifth; that the women, or the trains appointed in the law as a
matter of necessity, should then rise from the lamentation and go forth;
that the Gynæconomus, chosen by the people, should, at the purifica-
tion preceding the Thesmophoria, pray for prosperity and the enjoy-
ment of their existing possessions on behalf of those men who abide by,
and those women who obey, this law, and imprecate the contrary upon
those men and women who do not obey; and that it should be forbidden
to such women, as being profane, to sacrifice to any of the gods for ten
years; and that the Treasurer chosen after Demetrius, bearing a crown,
should inscribe this law upon two pillars, and place one of them before
the gates of the temple of [Ceres] Thesmophoros, and the other before
the temple of Artemis [i. e. Diana] Lochia. And let the Treasurer carry
the sum expended to the pillars [or columns] in the first Chamber of
Accounts."
PERGAMUS.
25
my toilet
away with me. In the morning, on awaking, I find
around me, and the kettle boiling for breakfast. I had pre-
viously laid in a store of tea at Corfu, an article which is
unknown here. Give me a good servant and a khan, and I
will not wish for the bows of a landlord or the troublesome
attentions of a waiter. But perhaps the novelty of the scene
may influence me.
In the khan by eight o'clock all is asleep, and mine the
only light burning. In the immediate vicinity of a khan is
always to be seen a mosque, from whose picturesque minaret
the Adán, or call to prayer, is repeated every five hours;
first addressed towards Mecca, and afterwards to each of
the cardinal points. The tone is very harmonious, and the
words are dwelt upon with a prolonged sound, making in
the stillness of the night a chant which is solemn and strik-
ing; its meaning is simple and beautiful: "God is most
great!" "I testify that there is no deity but God!" "I tes-
tify that Mahomet is God's apostle! Come to prayer; come
to security! God is most great: there is no deity but God!"
and the voice may be heard at a great distance, the eleva-
tion being considerable and the tone powerful and distinct.
There appears so much to interest in this town, that I shall
spend the whole of tomorrow here.
February 27th.—I have now seen the town, and am not
disappointed, never having enjoyed the excitement of dis-
covery more than on this day. The Turks take you round,
and show all they have not themselves built, calling every
ruin by the simple name of the "old walls." They know
nothing of traditions, for they are only conquerors here, and
extremely ignorant; but I required no guide; the stupen-
dous ruins proclaimed their builders, and their situation
told who selected it. The site of the theatre is truly Greek.
It embraces in its view the city, and the plains of Pergamus
with its chain of mountains, and is lit by the rising sun.
There is in the middle of the city a ruin of such extent that
C
26
MYSIA.
it can have been nothing less than the palace of a Roman
emperor, and that worthy of an Adrian.
The river has five bridges, one of splendid masonry, so
wide that it forms a tunnel a furlong in length, upon which
a portion of this great palace stands. I have been into
many long and beautifully built vaults or cisterns, and
several mosques and khans now occupying the buildings of
the ancients. The most interesting is a mosque, from its
style doubtless a church of the early Christians, in which
the Epistles may have been read to the first disciples. The
walls of the Turkish houses are full of relics of marble,
with ornaments of the richest Grecian art. I have sketched
many, but they are innumerable. All the works standing
are magnificent, but are not of marble, nor in a style of
building showing elegance. The amphitheatre on the south-
west of the castle, though in ruins, is a wonderful building.
A river runs through it, and the arches, now underground,
are equal in workmanship to any that I have seen. Those
above have probably been as fine; but, although they now
stand tier above tier, all the joints have been chipped, as in
the Coliseum at Rome, and not a seat remains; the stupen-
dous works underground will defy the exertions of the
Turks to remove them. Triumphal arches and houses in
ruins are to be seen in the town, with the Turks' huts
among them, bearing the same proportion to them as the
nests of the storks to the ruined palaces, in which they alone
now reign. The burial-grounds also are full of fine relics.
I have been out today from seven to five o'clock, and have
quite tired myself with sketching, and should be tempted
to do so each day if I were to stay a week.
The marbles found here are numerous, and are continually
taken off for the museums of Europe. The French sent a
vessel last year for a bath and statue, which had been for
years unnoticed. I could not have imagined to what variety
of uses columns may be applied; they are to be had for
PERGAMUS TO ASSOS.
27
The
nothing, and are therefore used for every purpose.
modern town is as busy and thriving as heavy taxation will
allow, and has seven or eight khans.
We left Bérgama at nine o'clock, and proceeded directly
into the mountains towards the north, at the foot of which
the town stands. On the right I saw in two places the
ruins of aqueducts; these connect the hills, which are pic-
turesque, but somewhat monotonous, resembling the Apen-
nines north of Florence. As we ascended they became
covered with the stone-pine, and occasionally splendid spe-
cimens of the plane, with underwood of the dwarf oak;
hyacinths of several kinds looked very gay, mixed with the
anemone and pale lilac crocus. The hills were successively
of limestone and what appeared to be immense mounds of
sand, with very large rounded rocks on their sides, but
which on reaching them I found to be of the same substance
as the castle rock of Smyrna, a kind of bastard granite; it
decomposes so rapidly, that to the leeward of each rock was
a heap of particles similar to the sand of the whole surface
of the mountain, and looking like a snow-drift. In many
places these round rocks had rolled from opposite hills upon
the limestone rocks, and the combination made it somewhat
difficult to know whence came the sand.
Karaváren, where I am now sitting in a mud-built barn,
is about fifteen miles from Bérgama, and amidst the moun-
tains. It contains scarcely a dozen hovels; but we have
travelled so excessively slowly (fifteen miles in six hours),
that this is the only halting-place we can reach; it is quite
a mountain village, and the management of a few goats.
seems to be the only care of the people.
We have been in a wood all the day, not an acre being
cultivated; the cutting of timber, which the camels trans-
port, and the herds of goats feeding, furnished, with our
caravan, the only signs of life. The company of a caravan
I hope in future to avoid, at all events to get ahead of it.
c 2
28
MYSIA.
It is a great annoyance to follow in a train of seventeen
horses close behind each other; if one trips, stops to catch
at the branches of the trees, or has occasion to have the
baggage re-arranged, the whole cavalcade is checked. To-
wards the latter end of our journey I managed to take the
lead, which not only prevented my feeling the interruption,
but quickened the whole party. The Post in this country
is established by order of the Government on all roads con-
necting large towns; it is used solely for the Tartars or
Government couriers, and the diplomatic agents or gover-
nors communicating with the capital; the rate of charge is
therefore fixed, and at the very low price of a piastre, or
less than twopence halfpenny, for each horse per hour, or
about four miles in distance: a small sum is added for the
post-boy, and a present or backshish is expected by the
ostlers at the stations. The charge of the post-master does
not of course remunerate him, he being only an agent who
obtains horses, on application of the travellers, from the
farmers or people of the town, frequently paying them more
than he can legally charge; he is therefore allowed by the
Government a high salary, in order to indemnify him from
loss. The traveller without a firman can demand horses,
but the price then becomes a matter of bargain. Hitherto
I have had post horses; but now, no longer travelling on a
post road, there is a difficulty in procuring them, and there-
fore we are to be carried for two days by horses hired,
the owners of which accompany us, and generally arrange
to join other parties, in order to render mutual assistance.
Like all travellers in this country, my companions are so
much disposed to sociability, that we form a party of seven-
teen, instead of only my own four horses.
Having no firman at present, which is only to be procured
at Constantinople, I am obliged to pay double the usual
posting charges. When I have obtained my firman they
will be very moderate, but for one person the travelling is
ì
:
PERGAMUS TO ASSOS.
29
expensive. I pay sixteen shillings a-day for four horses, and
the services of the owners, who accompany me.
From the highest point of the mountain today I had a
fine view of another of those productive valleys so peculiar
to this country, which towards the east is watered by the
Mysius, a river joining the Caicus. In most countries that
I have visited, with the exception of a part of Italy, hill
and valley vary every mile; but here the perfectly flat plain,
of immense extent, is girt in by its mountains; detached
from these ranges not a hill is to be seen.
March 1st.-By seven o'clock in the morning we had
breakfasted, packed, and were proceeding through the moun-
tains. The whole distance from Bérgama to Keméreh is
occupied by the pass of the mountains. We were fourteen
hours making the passage, and nearly three hours more in
crossing the valley to this place, Adramít, the ancient Adra-
myttium. This mountain-pass is extremely wild, and occa
sionally beautiful; scarcely a trace of a cottage is to be seen
the whole distance. About four miles from Karaváren I
saw in a burial-ground several columns, and among the wil-
derness of immense round rocks or boulders, I observed
many squared stones of considerable size; and overhead, on
the peak of an isolated rocky hill, old walls of good masonry
were visible. The exceedingly fine and commanding situa-
tion induced me to be on the look-out for some trace of
former residents: at present the whole seemed deserted.
This would appear from the map to have been the ancient
Lyrnessus. At Keméreh also I saw columns and squared
or wrought stones; but from the cross and other ornaments
seen upon them, I fancy they must have been the relies of a
later date than the Greek.
This valley of Keméreh, which is far smaller than the
others I have passed, is highly cultivated and beautiful; the
olive-trees are very fine, old, and numerous; and the vine is
trained on trellis, as in Italy. I heard that this mode is
30
MYSIA.
peculiar, in Asia Minor, to this place. Here I noticed two
houses built in the European style, there being nothing else
European in the town. It was the dirtiest place I ever slept
in; all the streets were filthy.
During this day's ride it rained in torrents for seven
hours; my hood screened my body, but my legs and saddle
were soaked, and a stream was running from my heels all
the morning. The series of hills that we had passed since
leaving Bérgama had generally been of a soft granite, while
some of the intersecting ones and higher ranges were of
limestone, and one part of a shining slaty stone. The
granite was generally spread over the country in immense
boulders; and these were so rapidly decomposing, that each
had to the leeward a heap, such as I have before described
as looking like a snow-drift, formed of its particles. I
observed much of the Lichen geographicus, covering, and
indeed holding together, these decomposing stones. On
this soil the oak seems to spring up spontaneously, and the
whole country around is covered with brushwood. The
boulders being of a description of granite, and evidently
igneous, I was surprised to see them intersected with hori-
zontal strata of marble, of course the gradual deposit of
waters; the marble was not crystallized. After I had been
puzzling over this appearance for some time, I noticed in
the same stones veins of marble shooting out in all direc-
tions. Had the substances been reversed, I should have
thought the heated liquid granite might have shot into the
crevices of the marble; but shortly after I saw rock with
perpendicular fissures filled with marble. This led me to
think that the cracks and fissures in the cooling rocks had
been the receptacles for the waters filtering from the lime-
stone, forming moulds, in which these beautiful white veins,
now girting in all directions the stones washed down the
river, had been cast. Having noticed these facts, I saw
that the mountains were ribbed with lines of white marble,
PERGAMUS TO ASSOS.
31
and the road afterwards became almost impeded by little
walls, perhaps a foot high, of hard marble; the mould of
granite in which they were cast having perished and been
washed away in the sand. Afterwards, in winding along
the side of a mountain, we passed into richly wooded
ravines, with a sandy soil, and then had to proceed round
a projecting cliff of bare rocky marble. Thus the same for-
mation may be traced, from the striped stone on the road
to the marble cliffs and the ravines, of decomposed granite
rock.
The road from Adramít, a town in which no traces of
antiquities are to be found, except in a few coins picked up
in the neighbourhood, lay for nearly two hours through fine
woods of olives, and along the sea-coast or gulf which takes.
its name from this town. I here saw, on a font, a marble
which had been part of a handsome frieze, exhibiting the
bull's head and wreath, so common in Greek architecture,
and one or two fragments of columns.
We then traversed the coast through woods of the richest
trees, the planes being the handsomest to be found in this,
or perhaps any other, part of the world. I have never seen
such stupendous arms to any trees. There were a few wal-
nuts and pines, and the country for fifty miles was covered
with olives, which still furnish the principal trade of this
part of Asia Minor. The underwood was of myrtle, grow-
ing sometimes twenty feet high, the beautiful daphne laurel,
and the arbutus; and these seemed contending for pre-
eminence with the vine, clematis, and woodbine, which
climbed to their very tops, and in many instances bore
them down into a thicket of vegetation, impervious except
to the squirrels and birds, which, sensible of their security
in these retreats, stand boldly to survey the traveller. A
kind of grape-hyacinth and the arum, added to varieties of
anemones, cover the ground. I observed that the crows
32
MYSIA.
I
here are grey-bodied*, but am informed that the black crow
is also known.
In the dirty khan at Adramít I had the choice of two
rooms, the best of which was very offensive, having been
recently filled with skins of cheese and oil. I had it swept,
and a large fire made to purify it, but for nearly an hour it
was not fit for me to enter; so I loitered about, and looked
into the room next to my own. On a clean mat, crouching
in the corner, were two fine slaves; their owner seemed very
kind to them, and was feeding them with delicacies. All
the slaves I have at present seen, generally from Ethiopia,
are decidedly longer in the leg-joint from the ankle to the
knee than any race of human beings with which I am
acquainted. A person seeing the leg only would expect to
find them extremely tall, but this is by no means the case.
As the post-master makes me take five horses, we have
caused quite a sensation in this little village, which lies in a
ravine high above the sea, another of the crow's-nest sites
chosen by the early Greeks; its name is Chétme. There
being no khan, I had to beg the governor of the place to
extend to me the hospitality usual towards strangers, and
this gave me an opportunity of observing Turkish manners.
As I sat on my horse, surrounded by my little suite, and
waiting the termination of the mosque service, I soon
became the object of curiosity to the younger and perhaps
lower persons among the inhabitants; but the elder, or
those assuming any authority, passed by, merely giving me
a salute in the Turkish language,-Oöroler, meaning, Wel-
come, stranger.' Among these was the Aga, or principal
man, the governor of the village, who knew I waited only to
speak to him, but would not compromise his dignity by
transacting his official business in the street; and we con-
sequently had to follow him half a mile to his hut, where,
* Corvus cornix, the hooded crow.
6
PERGAMUS TO ASSOS..
33
1
on his arrival, he ascended a few steps leading to a stage or
trellised platform of wood in front of the hut. His carpet
and pipe having been brought to him, he sat down in state
to listen to my request, making a sign to me to be seated;
and during the whole interview he never uttered a word, or
even looked at me. A sign was made by him to an atten-
dant, who thereupon led us to the strangers' house, and
remained as my servant. I observed that, as soon as we
turned our backs, this stately Aga was on tiptoe, watching
with great animation my little party as we withdrew from
this ceremonious interview. Thinking that I was a Milor-
dos, I suppose, he sent from his own house a handsome
dinner in the Turkish style. On a large round tray of
copper, tinned, was a tureen of soup, a dish of rice, and one
of olives, with a supply of bread and some sweets. This
Turkish title of Milordos is given to persons of all nations
who travel without any visible motive. Who is he, a
messenger of government or a merchant? The Turks can
conceive no other motives for travelling; and if the stranger
disowns both of these, he must be Milordos. To such a one
particular attention is paid, and in the khan, where a small
sum is demanded for the use of the room, no charge is made
to Milordos, who is supposed to be rolling in riches; the
master of the khan knowing that he shall thus obtain as a
bounty double what he could demand. After food and
whatever else I could need had been offered by the Aga,
and accepted for me, I heard Demetrius still asking for
something, using the word "Adam," or "Adahm." On in-
quiring of him what he meant, he explained that he wanted
'a man' to assist him. My servant, who spoke fluently
seven modern languages, said that this word was very
similar in all the Eastern nations. The name Adam in
our Scriptures is therefore the untranslated word “man.”
March 2nd.—Our road lay by the sea-shore almost all the
day. In descending from our lofty village, we saw traces in
CC
??
c 3
34
MYSIA.
the mud of a number of wild-boars, and their ploughing for
the roots of lilies and other bulbs. We shot a lark and
a thrush, which did not differ from the British. Several
eagles' nests were in the high cliff which formed the bold
but beautiful coast. Between this and the sea lay a valley
half a mile in breadth, thickly planted with olives, skirting
the sea almost all the way. The hills are clothed with ever-
greens to their tops, and therefore vary little with the
seasons; the underwood which is the most common here,
and in all the country we have passed through, and which
till now I scarcely recognised, is a species of the box. The
beach of the Mediterranean has one peculiarity, which is
seen here, as on all its shores that I have visited, namely
the flatness of the stones or shingle, many being as thin as
penny-pieces, and none rounded, as is commonly the case in
our seas. This is occasioned by the very gradual and gentle
gliding in and out of the water, by which the stones are
rubbed together without being rolled over. The tide is not
perceptible here; I have not in any part of the Mediter-
ranean observed it rise more than eighteen inches, and in
many places it is not felt at all. The wind is almost the
only power that influences it, and in land-locked parts of
course this is considerable.
This grinding of the stones destroys the shells, which in
this comparatively still water are not so often washed up as
in the more open seas. The only shells I saw were those of
the sepia, or cuttle-fish, whose pithy cargo rides like a life-
boat on the wave, and is left high upon the beach. The
stones are of course of the same substance as the cliffs,
namely of limestone, of conglomerate, of many kinds of
igneous rocks, some quite green, but generally of a grey
colour, and of a species of granite used for all the buildings
in the district.
At about six miles' distance from Beahráhm, the ancient
Assus or Assos, we left the sea-side and ascended through
ASSOS.
35
wild rocky scenery, rich in useless vegetation. The approach
to the ancient town is very imposing: we passed a small
lake, and then entered a little wood of shrubs, which I found
thickly interspersed with the stones and lids of sarcophagi.
As we drew near to the town, its surrounding wall of beauti-
ful Greek workmanship crossed our path, and again another
inclosing the Acropolis. They are very perfect, and in many
places stand thirty feet high; each stone being beautifully
cut, and laid without cement. The rocks which supplied
the materials of the buildings, as well as the foundation of
much of the town, rise sixty or eighty feet in abrupt cliffs,
each of which has had its crown of temples. The village
now on the spot consists but of a few sheds, one of which is
appropriated to my use.
After depositing the baggage, I took the most intelligent
Turk in the place as cicerone, and went up to the ruins on
the Acropolis, from which I beheld all the country round,—
the beautiful island of Mytilene on one side, and the river
winding through a rich meadow on the other, rising at
Mount Ida, and flowing to the western coast, backed by a
series of wooded hills. Immediately around me were the
ruins, extending for miles, undisturbed by any living crea-
ture except the goats and kids. On all sides lay columns,
triglyphs, and friezes, of beautiful sculpture, every object
speaking of the grandeur of this ancient city. In one place
I saw thirty Doric capitals placed up in a line for a fence.
I descended towards the sea, and found the whole front of
the hill a wilderness of ruined temples, baths, and theatres,
all of the best workmanship, but all of the same grey stone
as the neighbouring rock*.
The seats of the theatre remain, although, like all the
parts of the building, displaced as if by an earthquake. The
*The sculptures, more fully described in my larger Work, have since
been removed to Paris.
36
MYSIA.
circumstance that the material has not intrinsic value as
marble, has preserved these remains from the depredations
committed on other towns near the coast; and from their
appearance I imagine that the whole of the materials are
scattered around, and uninjured but by age. Some immense
cisterns still contain water. All the buildings were of the
solid Greek style, and the friezes much ornamented. On
many of the stones are deeply cut Greek inscriptions, with
letters nine inches in height. I copied some, but others
were too heavy to be easily moved.
I passed another beautiful wall in a very perfect state,
exhibiting gateways of the earliest dates, as well as those of
the later Greek.
F
•

ASSOS.
37

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I then entered the Via Sacra, or Street of Tombs, extend-
ing for miles. Some of the tombs still stand in their origi-
nal beautiful forms, but most have been opened, and the lids
are lying near the walls they covered, curiosity or avarice
38
MYSIA.
having been satisfied by displacing them. Occasionally in
the line of tombs are circular seats, as at Pompeii; but
these ruins are on a considerably larger scale than those of
the Roman city, and many of the remains are equally per-
fect. Several are highly ornamented, and have inscriptions;
others are as large as temples, being twenty or thirty feet.
square the usual length of the sarcophagus* is from ten to
twelve feet.
:
My guide called every ruin an "old castle;" and even
with these tombs open before him, he said that he was igno-
rant that they were such, till an Englishman who was here
six years ago informed him. He supposed the chambers, or
large sarcophagi, were for the angel or spirit to wait in.
The Turk's grave has a stone at the head and foot, with a
turban or rag upon it, and is planted with cypress-trees.
In returning to the town I found a wall of the very early
and singular style called Cyclopean, considered to be older

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* The Anglicised word sarcophagus is a Roman one, of not very early
date. The Greek term on all tombs is Soros. Pliny says that a peculiar
stone, found in the territory of Assos, has the property of wasting the
bodies entombed in it; hence the term sarcophagus, meaning 'flesh-eating.'
ASSOS.
39
than the common architecture of the Greeks. It is here
clearly proved to be so by the Greeks having repaired this
wall, and built over it with the beautifully squared stones of
their later style.
This town is perfectly open to the antiquarian, and seems
preserved for his examination, appearing to have been unoc-
cupied since its destruction, and inscriptions being exposed
on innumerable stones. Many tombs of a Greek date re-
main unopened.
There appears no trace of the Romans,
nor, except in the instances I have noticed, of the Chris-
tians. The material of which the town was built not being
fine, the sculpture is not of much value, but the hardness
of the stone has combined with its want of intrinsic worth
to preserve the inscriptions.
The Turks have no traditions of the country, and are
more ignorant than can be conceived, being not only un-
learned, but resolved not to learn. They call all buildings
which they have not themselves constructed, whether bridge,
bath or aqueduct, temple, theatre or tomb, all Esky kalli,
"old castle." The uses of the two latter buildings are un-
known to the Musselmans, and they can scarcely compre-
hend even visible objects. When curiosity has led them to
examine my baggage, or the spring-lock of my carpet-bag,
they have, after I have given a simple explanation, turned
away, saying, "I cannot understand.” At Smyrna, the
Governor and the Judge both made a tour of the Consul's
dining-room, fingering everything on the side-board, and
asking questions like children.
The horses in Asia Minor are shod with plates of thin
iron, thus,
40
MYSIA.
The nails project considerably and a small square hole is
left in the centre to admit air and moisture, but not large
enough to catch a stone. The wear is almost wholly upon
the nails, and the plate is little thicker than tin. I do not
remember to have seen any specimen of ancient Greek
sculpture with shoes on the horses.
The houses of the villages in Turkey seem very much
alike. I have been into many, and will describe the one
appointed for me last night at Beahráhm. On the outside
it looked like a square box, and the inside measured from
twelve to fourteen feet: it was built of stones, of all shapes,
put together with mud. The roof was flat and covered with
earth; a small roller, generally a piece of a column, lying on
the top to make this compact, in order to keep out the wet.
There was no window, and consequently light was admitted
only by the door, which had no lock or fastening, except a
piece of wood suspended over the top withinside, and falling
down when the door shut, whilst on the outside hung a peg,
with which this inside fastening might be pushed up on
entering. The walls and floors were of mud, mixed with
short pieces of straw; the roof was a tree laid across, and
boards placed transversely; the interior was black with the
smoke from a large open fire-place, and on entering, the
house appeared quite dark.
The lamps here are of tin or earthenware, and of the
beautiful forms used by the Greeks and Romans.
ढ

O
ASSOS.
41
When the traveller arrives, the owner of the house, or
servant appointed by the authorities, sweeps out the room
and puts down a mat, the only article of furniture provided.
My servant presses into the walls three or four nails, on
which to hang his gun, whip, our caps, and my hood; and
then places the hammock and mattress upon the carpet,
whilst the canteen-box serves for table, spread with food,
papers, sketch-book, or whatever I may desire. Any one
who were to see the travellers' room thus occupied, would
acknowledge it to be extremely enjoyable. Hitherto I have
retained my English habits, am never required to smoke,
and have tasted Turkish coffee but once since I entered
Asia: that specimen was not at all to my liking, which will
be readily believed when I describe the process of making
it. Each cup is made separately, the little saucepan or
ladle in which it is prepared being about an inch wide and
two deep; this is more than half filled with coffee, finely
pounded with a pestle and mortar, and then filled up with
water: after being placed for a few seconds on the fire, the
contents are poured or rather shaken out, (being much
thicker than chocolate,) without the addition of cream or
sugar, into a china cup, of the size and shape of half an
egg-shell, which is inclosed in one of ornamented metal of
the same form, for convenience of holding in the hand,—
"Gold cups of filigree, made to secure
The hand from burning, underneath them placed.”
March 3rd.-I left Beahráhm at half-past eight o'clock
this morning, and travelled until five in the evening, a dis-
tance of about thirty miles. The first part of the road lay
over barren hills, and it was only in the valleys and ravines
that the rich evergreens and the pink blossom of the almond,
with hundreds of Angora goats browsing upon them, re-
minded me in what country I was rambling. On descending
I came to lower hills, covered with a most beautiful species
42
MYSIA.
of oak, which exceeds our own in size; the acorn, or rather
its cup, is exported in large quantities to Europe for dye:
the planes also were enormous. I am much struck with the
beauty of the trees in this country.
As we approached Doósler, about sixteen miles on our
way, a range of hills lay before us clothed with little vege-
tation, and the valley below seemed barren, the greater part
of it looking like fields covered by a flood; but as we ap-
proached, I found that these expanses of waters were salt-
pans. The face or cliff of these barren hills (barren from
the nature of their soil,) was singularly beautiful, and
strongly resembled Alum Bay in the Isle of Wight, the
strata being considerably inclined, and delicately coloured
in ribbons of red, grey, white, and green, of every shade, all
softened by a pearly film of transparent salt, which had
filtered over the face of the cliff: on closer examination I
found that the whole of these colours were caused by a soft,
fine, adhering sand, like fuller's-earth to the touch. The
hills now became less lofty, and were entirely clothed with
oak: the collecting of the large acorn and shells and the
gall-nut (the formation of an insect disease) for dye employs
the people for great part of the year; indeed this labour and
attending the goats seem their sole occupation.
The composition of these hills is limestone, but as we ap-
proached Alexandria Troas they became a mass of shells,
with scarcely any combining earth; one of them, about two
miles east of the ancient city, has many hot springs, strongly
chalybeate, but my thermometer only indicated a temperature
of 140°, to which the mercury rose quickly; I do not think
it would in any of them have far exceeded that height, as
many were only 135° and 137°, varying according to the
nature of the apertures whence the water gushed. The
whole of the hills that I have mentioned are surrounded on
the south-east and north-east by a chain of bare craggy
mountains, of the grey granite of which all the columns
ALEXANDRIA TROAS.
43
of the ancient city of Troas were formed. The buildings
of the town were almost wholly of the stone containing, or
rather consisting of, masses of shells; some few were of
limestone.
The site of the ancient city being now covered by a forest
of oak-trees, it is impossible to see its ruins collectively;
but for many miles the ground is rendered useless for agri-
culture by the multitudes of broken stones and marbles and
arches, which lie under the surface in every direction. I
had fancied that the difficulty of tracing the foundation of
Troy had been from the scarcity of remains, but I judge
from this place that it may have been, on the contrary, from
the confused numbers which meet the eye on every side.
The ancient port is very interesting, and has been highly
ornamented; hundreds of columns, on a somewhat small
scale, lie scattered in all directions, and bristle among the
waves to a considerable distance out at sea. A wall or pier
also stands out in the sea, under water, causing breakers,
which show its situation. The harbour is now shrunk to
two small salt-water lakes. The island of Tenedos is exactly
opposite, and in the distance toward the north-west is seen
the island of Imbros. One immense broken granite column
lies in the harbour; but I could find no trace of more, or of
any corresponding parts of a temple or building.
The most striking ruins are about a mile from the sea,
probably near the centre of the city; they are on an exceed-
ingly grand scale, and contain some very fine arches of a
building which must have been contained within, or have
formed, a square.
In one of its small arched recesses we
found a man, who had long resided in this spot; he offered
us milk, and was extremely communicative about himself,
but knew nothing of the place he lived in; he told me that
he had been a hundred years old for two or three years, and
showed me some new teeth just appearing through his gums:
my servant Demetrius says that he once saw a man aged a
44
MYSIA.
hundred and twenty with the same peculiarity. This man
was a Greek, and from Roumelia; his beard was only par-
tially grey, and he did not appear so old as other men whom
I have seen, even in the course of today. The people of
this mountainous district are in general extremely dark, al-
most of the complexion of mulattos.
The ground in every direction within the walls was strewn
with carvings, mouldings and pedestals, in marble, some of
which had inscriptions, generally in the Greek language; I
copied a Latin one however from a handsome pedestal*.
Near the large building above mentioned is a basement
story, consisting of a rectangular platform of immense stones,
supported by strong arches; upon this raised site, which
affords a splendid view over the whole city and the sea be-
yond, has evidently stood a temple. Near this is another
foundation of the same kind, but semicircular, on the plan
of the Temple of Venus in Rome, but smaller. In several
other buildings, apparently baths or tombs, the stones are
placed on their angles, so as to form a kind of Mosaic; I
have often seen this style in Roman buildings; the roofs are
all arched.
I am now at Alexandria Troas, called by the Turks Esky
Stámbool. The present village consists of eight or ten
houses, similar to those described above: only two are occu-
pied, one by a singular character, our host, who calls himself
Consul, and talks of having been at the battle of the Nile,
the other by a woman and her son; no other inhabitants
are found within six miles, these being the only people who
* The translation of this inscription is as follows: "The colony of
Apri founded by Claudius, and the colony of Philippi founded by Julius,
[erect this statue to *** ***
priest] of the divine Augustus, and their
prince; also the colony of Parium, founded by Julius, and the tribunes
of the soldiers of the 32nd cohort of volunteers; the tribunes of the
soldiers of the 13th double legion; the commanders of the horse of the
first wing of the Scubuli."
ALEXANDRIA TROAS.
45
have not been driven away by the extortion of the Turkish
agents.
Passing the massy foundations of the walls of the city,
which at present stand but a few feet above the ground, we
travelled eastwards for two or three miles, to a hill contain-
ing hot-springs. This hill looked like a honeycomb, from
the number of arched buildings on its sides for baths and
fountains; one or two are still used as baths by the Turks.
I observed a female statue, of about seven feet in height,
and without a head; it was of the finest description of white
marble, but had been injured by exposure to the weather;
it now lies sunk in the ground, and serves as a seat at the
door of the bath. Riding towards the north-east for a mile
and a half, we followed an ancient paved road from the city,
and by the wayside found an immense granite column, un-
broken, lying in the bushes. I took its dimensions, which
were as follow: thirty-eight feet six inches in length; the
diameter of the top four feet six inches, with a cornice fifteen
inches in depth; diameter of the base five feet six inches,
with a moulding twelve inches broad. It was in excellent
preservation; but I sought in vain for its pedestal, and won-
dered that its fall should not have broken it. In two hours
we reached Gaicle, and thence walked to a gorge near one
of the peaks of the granite range of hills, about a mile off,
to see the Seven Columns. I there found in the quarry,
with all their chips about them, and their parent rock within
a few feet distance, seven finished columus, in form and
measurement precisely like the one which I had seen on my
way, and also like the column I had noticed lying on the
beach at Troy,-thus making nine in all; they were, no
doubt, about to be used in, or shipped from, the city, which
was visible from this quarry, and distant in a straight line
not above five or six miles: this at once explained the facts
that there was neither pedestal for, nor fracture in, the one
by the wayside, and no other remains in the city similar to
46
MYSIA.
the column lying in the port. A long groove was cut on
the solid face of the rock in the quarry, marking out the
first stage towards hewing out another similar column*.
On two adjoining summits of this range of mountains
are the ruins of the towns of Criscool and Criser: I was
told that the walls only of the latter remained, and that they
were an hour and a half long. Riding between two of these
hills we passed a woody summit, and had before us a splendid
and extensive view of almost the whole of the Troas,—
Mount Ida capped with snow, with the amphitheatre of
mountains which range with it, encircling the valley of the
Méndere, or ancient Scamander. In an hour and a half we
reached Enáe, a tolerably large town, situated on the two
sides of a river. I find all the maps that I have with me
so incorrect, that tomorrow I shall have to make an excur-
sion of six hours to a town which is marked on the maps
two hours in a contrary direction.
March 4th.—It is Sunday; time glides away most rapidly
on the tide of pleasure. I am generally on horseback eight
hours a day, up at half-past six o'clock, and at night write
or draw till ten.
* Dr. E. D. Clarke, in his Travels, (vol. iii. chap. vi. page 188,) says:
"A short distance from the road, concealed among trees, lay the largest
granite pillar in the world, excepting the famous column of Alexandria
in Egypt, which it much resembles. It is of the same substance, and
it has the same form; its astonishing length, as a mere shaft, without
base or capital, of one entire stone, equalled thirty-seven feet eight
inches; and it measured five feet three inches in diameter at the base,
and four feet five inches at the summit. It may seem to throw some
light upon the origin of the Egyptian pillar. Its situation is upon a
hill above Alexandria Troas. A paved road led from the city to the
place where it either stood, or was to have been erected. We have
therefore the instance of two cities, both built by generals of Alexander
the Great, in consequence of his order, and each city having a pillar of
this kind upon an eminence, outside of its walls.”
It would seem that Dr. Clarke had not observed the other columns
noticed in my Journal.
TROAS.
47
Having again descended into a valley, I find the buffalo,
which I have not seen for the last seven days. Access to
mud or water, in which they remain during the heat of the
day in the summer season, with their heads only above the
surface, is essential to their healthy existence; the skin,
which much resembles in appearance that of the elephant,
becomes otherwise so diseased that the animal pines away:
their Turkish name is Soósiger, meaning 'water-ox.'
The women here are far more shy than in the large towns;
they never leave even an eye exposed, and generally retreat
into some shelter when met by a man; and if this be in the
road, they turn their faces to a bush until he has passed.
Sometimes, while standing at the top of my house. I have,
unseen, observed fair faces; but they were all of a dumpling
form, which I cannot admire, while the Greek countenance
is constantly before me; their hands are always clean, but
generally concealed. I have sometimes fancied their finger-
ends bleeding, the henna with which they are dyed making
them red, or rather of the colour of burnt sienna. As I
was passing along the street, a woman hastily called out to
a child of six years old, "The Ghiaour coming!" and it was
snatched within the door, which she shut. This term, my
servant tells me, cannot be translated literally; it means
more than infidel, for which the Turkish word is Rayah;
Ghiaour was interpreted to me to mean a man without a
soul, without a God: this word is used as a bugbear to
children.
In all Turkish towns are found a vast number of skele-
tons of the domestic animals, affording ample opportunity
for studying the anatomy of the camel, cow, horse, ass, and
ox; the dogs begin, and the sun and wind complete, the
bleaching of the skeleton. The head of the ox alone escapes
this fate; in cultivated districts it is placed on a stick, or
hung on a tree, as a scarecrow. This custom prevails in
Greece as well as here: the heads are always beautifully
48
MYSIA.
.
white, and retain the horns, which are in this part of the
world exceedingly short and thick.

The skull, with its horns, has thus been constantly pre-
sented to the eye of the Greek artist blanched white as
marble, and hence the introduction of precisely this figure
in the friezes of their architecture; and perhaps the vine or
clematis wreathing about the horns may have suggested the
frequent accompaniment of this ornament. It appears to
me the more evident that this is the real origin, from its
being the skeleton of the head that is depicted. Had the
figure been in honour of, or connected with, the worship of
the Bull, why not have exhibited the living head, which is
rarely given?
From Enáe I made an excursion to the site of Old Troy,
and back, a distance of about fifteen miles. Adjoining Enáe
is a mound, which, if artificial, is a colossal work. I believe
it is supposed to be a tumulus, and is called Enea's tomb,
connecting it with the present name of this place. The
mound or tomb, whichever it may be, is now, together with
the fields at its base, become a Turkish burial-ground,
covered with stones and planted with the cypress. A mile
below the town, the stream on which it stands flows into
the Méndere, which is here a large river, equal in size to
the Wye, and much resembling it in scenery; it carries
down much soil, and occasionally lays waste a tract of
country three times its own width. About a mile further
TROAS.
49
on our route, which lay by the river, is a wooden bridge;
the only other crossing at this season is by a bridge near the
mouth of the river on the plains of Troy, distant eighteen
miles from Old and New Troy; and in consequence, although
these two places, the most interesting in this part of the
country, are not far distant from each other, standing on
opposite sides of the river, the traveller has to make a day's
journey down the western side to Old Troy, and return, and
then along the eastern bank to New Troy, and afterwards
proceed to the Dardanelles. I believe at some seasons there
are places in the river fordable, but there are none now.
The ride is extremely picturesque: the river, with the road,
generally occupies the whole of the valley, which is bounded
by ranges of craggy hills richly wooded; where any inlet or
hollow occurs in them, the soil is excellent and highly culti-
vated, exhibiting beautiful green meadows and corn-fields.
Large flocks of goats, with their bells and the herdsman's
pipe, give life to the scene, and climbing to the most craggy
parts add to the picturesque effect.

all
C
The pipe used by the shepherds in Asia Minor is a simi-
lar instrument to those found in the tombs in Athens,
specimens of which are in the British Museum; it is open
at both ends, and is played by the shepherds in the manner
represented on the Greek vases, by blowing sideways into
it. This instrument and the lyre are sufficient evidence
that the ancient Greeks, who attained a perfection in archi-
tecture and sculpture never equalled by any other age, can-
not have understood the science of music.
About two miles before we arrived at Boonabassy, which
word means 'spring-head,' we left the river and passed over
a range of hills, commanding a splendid map-view of the
D
50
MYSIA.
:
whole of the country where the greatest nations once con-
tended in almost endless strife: and now nations as great,
then not in being, contest the point, where lived these
people whose acts for ages gave even a date to the world.
The continents of Europe and Asia, as well as the islands
of Imbros and Tenedos, were included in the view, the
centre of which was marked by the winding course of the
Scamander.
In the village of Boonábassy a few relics of past days
have been worked up in the mud of the hovels, but there
are none to indicate the site of even a small town. This
village, which is by Europeans called Old Troy, stands at
the end of a chain terminating in two mountains, between
which the river descends into the plains, that extend about
fifteen miles to the sea. Upon one of these we rode in
search of some trace of the city, of which the champions of
this locality for Old Troy boast. The natives call this hill
Bollhu-tepe, and some the Heights of Boonábassy. We
saw on the stony top of a hill (certainly very small for the
site of a city) two piles of loose stones; I think it very
questionable whether put together by nature or art; and if
by art, a doubt may arise as to the purpose, for I have often
seen in mountain districts piles as large heaped up by the
villagers as a testimony of respect, upon the spot where
some too adventurous brother met with an untimely end.
I could not find on this or the neighbouring heights a single
squared stone, or any indication of art of any age; and this
is the spot fixed upon as ancient Troy. The country was
beautiful, and the ride amply repaid me, affording me new
information upon the geography of this district.
many partridges, and two eagles; one sat boldly on a tree
under which we passed, looking down contemptuously upon
me, and I observed his keen eye watching me continually;
it was not one of the largest sort, but of the size of a small
turkey.
I saw
TROAS.
51
The hills were generally of schist, somewhat micaceous
and flaky, in colour resembling serpentine, being green
when wet, and of a lighter colour when weather-worn; I
judged the distant rocks, from their fractures, to be lime-
stone: they were generally covered with vegetation. In
some I observed fine veins of good white marble, and others
were of mountain limestone. I first saw in the town of
Enáe, in the adjoining burial-ground, and afterwards much
scattered over the roads, volcanic stones, which in the for-
mer places appeared as fine hexagonal basaltic columns. I
am told (but place little reliance on the report of the peo-
ple here) that they come from the distant chain of Mount
Ida, and from near the quarry that we visited to see the
granite columns. It is probable they must be found much
nearer, for the people would not take the trouble to carry
them so far.
I have today had an opportunity of examining some of
the agricultural implements of the country; one is used for
the joint purpose of threshing and of cutting the straw*.
It is very primitive and curious, consisting of a thick plank
of timber flat on the ground, with another smaller one in-
clining upwards, to which the animal is attached, for the
purpose of dragging it over the corn, which is spread out on
the hard rocky ground; the flat underside is stuck full of
flints or hard cutting stones, arranged in the form of the
palate or rough tongue of the cow. In the one which I
examined I found the teeth all made of beautiful agates, and
* Implements precisely similar to these were exhibited in the "Exhi-
bition of all Nations," 1851, in the collection from Tunis. Paul Lucas
noticed this method of threshing near the Sea of Marmora. He has
represented in an engraving both the instrument itself and the mode of
drawing it by oxen: he describes the method of arming it with gun-
flints, and of making it heavy by causing persons to sit upon it. This
is the tribulum mentioned by Virgil, Georg. i. 164. The Prophet Isaiah
alludes to it (chap. xli. 15)—“Behold, I will make thee a new sharp
threshing instrument having teeth."
D 2
52
MYSIA.
<-
qu
پیر را برای این دوران
Me
Ü
on inquiry hear that the stones are found, chipped, and set
near Béiramitch, in the mountains of the Idæan chain, a
few miles from this place. The roller is the trunk of a tree,
often weighted by the driver riding on it; it is dragged over
the ground, but does not revolve.
The mode of winnowing is as primitive; advantage is
taken of a favourable wind, and the corn is thrown into the
air. The plough, each portion of which is still called by its
ancient Greek name, is very simple, and seems suited only
to the light soil which prevails here.
एं
تر کا سیم

•
=

aporρov, the Plough. pvμos, the Pole. ivus, the Share. EXETAN,
the Handle, or Plough-tail. μerada, the Yokes. катрivоs, the Goad,
or instrument for driving.
TROAS.
53
It is held by one hand only. The shape of the share varies,
and the plough is used frequently without any. It is drawn
by two oxen, yoked from the pole, and guided by a long
reed or thin stick, which has a spud or scraper at the end
for cleaning the share. The oxen are all small, of the size
of our Scotch cattle, and either black or grey. I have not
seen a red cow, nor one with long horns, in this country.
The buffalos are much used in agriculture. There are very
few carts here, as there are no roads: occasionally they are
used to transport the crops from field to field; being some-
times of wicker-work, and sometimes without bodies, like a
brewer's dray, with poles fixed at the sides to keep the load
together. The wheels are of solid blocks of wood, or thick
planks, generally three, held together by an iron hoop or
tire; a loud creaking noise is made by the friction of the

galled axle. The harrow is a bunch of thorns. I observe
it is the custom first to sow the land, then plough and brush,
or harrow it. This is slovenly work, but the roots and short
stumps of the maize of the last year are so much decayed
that they are ploughed in, and serve as manure for the land.
The spade and shovel, principally used in cutting for irriga-


tion, are above six feet long, and power is applied to them
by placing them under the arm.
54
MYSIA.
March 6th.-This morning I left Enáe, traversing the
same road as on my excursion to Boonábassy; and then
crossing the wooden bridge, the construction of which
makes this a somewhat perilous route, I travelled for about
eight miles along the eastern side of the river, in a direc-
tion parallel with the road of yesterday. The rocks on this
side rising more perpendicularly, less cultivation is here
practicable; these rocks appeared of the same material as
the opposite ones. The wild-boar leaves each morning his
traces on the fresh-rooted ground, and his track in the mud
on his way to the river. Wolves are also very numerous
here: this may account for the number of dogs kept by the
Turks, which bay at you on approaching a hut or herd of
cattle. The dogs are generally of an uniform breed, much
resembling the wolf in form and colour, but frequently grow-
ing to a great size, sometimes as large as the Newfoundland.
The ruff of hair round the neck, and the short ears, make
them handsome animals.
We left the river, and passing a valley to the eastward
ascended some hills, and were soon on the mountain op-
posite to the one on which we yesterday sought the tumuli
above Boonábassy. I came now on the same search; but
here also nature appeared undisturbed by art, scarcely a
stone having been moved, except by the heavy rains. There
is a superstition among the Turks that a great man was
buried here, and their name for the hill signifies a burial-
place. The imaginary stature of this ideal person is marked
by a row of stones, extending about sixteen feet. This hill
and the neighbouring one were interesting, not only from
the view which they command over all the classic plains to
the Hellespont, but also from the formation of the hills
themselves. Of what are they composed? I should say
agate. They contain also highly metalliferous fragments,
some of apparently almost pure iron-ore; in other parts
are the green symptoms of copper: every cavity seems filled
PLAINS OF TROY.
55
with crystals of quartz; and in and over the red agate stone
was a mammaliferous pearly coating. I could have selected
beautiful cabinet specimens, but England is too far off for
me to carry home stones in most respects similar to our
Scotch pebbles: here the rock itself seemed entirely com-
posed of that material; in Scotland I have seen it only in
rounded pebbles.
Descending into the plains below I observed what ap-
peared to be an isolated mound. At first I fancied it was a
real tumulus, but on approaching I found that it was backed
to the north by a long ridge of natural hills, which led me
to think that it owed its origin to the ancient current of
waters rather than the work of man. I find however from
my books that this is asserted to be the tomb of Пlus. Pro-
ceeding north we came to a village, or assemblage of a few
huts, called Shéblac, the neighbourhood of which claims to
be the site of New Troy,-Ilium Novum; and here among
some oaks I saw an immense number of columns, triglyphs,
and the parts of many temples varying in style. They are
now in a Turkish burial-ground, but I scarcely think they
can have been brought there by the Turks, being too heavy
for them to transport. There were besides many blocks of
common stone, some squared, which would be useless in
these grounds, and are evidently the remains of buildings.
which had stood near this spot; I could not find however
any foundations, and no form is visible in the present dis-
position of the columns. The general style of workmanship
is not of the early or finest age; the remains of inscriptions
are in the Greek character, but probably of as late a date as
the Roman conquest.
At a village three hours' journey beyond, called Hallil
Elly, I also saw a great assemblage of similar relics, scat-
tered over half a mile of country, some with rich carvings
and inscriptions. The connection of these with the place
was more evident, for I here traced the foundations of
56
MYSIA.
several small temples. Both these sites are slightly raised
above the general level of the plains, and consequently com-
mand an extensive view; but they are not at all similar to
those usually selected for large cities by the ancients, par-
ticularly by the Greeks.
The poetical idea of the plains of Troy, the arena of
Homer's battles, is frequently disturbed in passing the flat,
sandy, and marshy ground, by seeing its present inhabi-
tants, the buffalo, with all but its head immersed in the
swamps, the heron feeding in the shallow streams, and the
frogs, whose voices certainly vary more than that of any
other animal, sounding at different times like crying chil-
dren, barking dogs, pigeons, and crows; and when in great
numbers, producing a harmony almost as agreeable as the
singing of birds. On the banks or sandy places the helpless
tortoise is crawling sleepily along, and as we pass timidly
draws in its head. They are so numerous that I often turn
my horse out of the way to avoid them, although doubtless
their hard shell would sufficiently protect them from injury.
The dead ones lying about lose their outer shell, and become
perfectly white, of a limy bone, with the horny scales scat-
tered around.
Finding nothing of sufficient interest to detain me longer
on these plains, I determined to hasten on and reach Chan-
nákálasy before evening. We therefore travelled for the
next twenty-five miles at the speed of the Tartar (the cou-
riers of the Turks), which is seven or eight miles an hour,
passing over small limestone hills; and at about half the
way we paused on the brow of a range of them, forming the
cliffs or Asiatic frontier of the Dardanelles, at the village of
Ghiaoúrcooe. The view of the entrance of the strait was
so beautiful, that, favouring my own and my horse's limbs, I
sat down to make a sketch.
Our Consul resides in this village, twelve miles from Chan-¸
nákálasy. We met his dragoman on the way, who begged
THE DARDANELLES,
57
own.
that I would ask for the key of his house, and use it as my
The residence of the Consul is in ruins, caused by
the late fire. His dragoman took my name, and the follow-
ing morning the Consul, Mr. Launder, came into the town.
to call upon me. He sat with me several hours, and offered
every attention. His house has been twice destroyed by
fire within a year, and from the last conflagration he only
escaped with the clothes on his back, losing, among other
property, a valuable library. The Sultan's government will
not allow the house to be rebuilt with stone, the Turks
representing the injury that would be sustained by the
growers of timber and by the workmen if the houses were
more durable.
One half of the town, the court end, was completely
destroyed last year, but is rapidly rising again, formed en-
tirely of wooden houses, which, while new and uniform,
have a peculiar and somewhat pleasing effect, resembling
the Swiss villages. A number of tents, raised upon the
ruins of their houses, form the temporary shops and caffés
of the half-ruined merchants. This place, which is of
considerable extent, takes its Turkish name Channákálasy
(meaning 'Pot Castle') from the manufactures of crockery
carried on here. It is called by us the Dardanelles, which
here refers to the straits alone: in the maps this town is
marked as Sultana, a name known only to the map-makers.
Each nation has here its resident consul, and the strong
castles on either shore make this the portal to the Sultan's
capital. Several other forts above assist in completely com-
manding the entrance of these straits.
Having ridden with the same horses about fifty-two miles,
between seven in the morning and six at night, I was ready
to retire early to rest, but was so excessively cold that I
could not sleep. The weather had suddenly changed, and it
blew a hurricane from the north-east, making the current of
the Hellespont defy the power of the steamboat which was
D 3
58
MYSIA.
to carry us forward. Before daylight I heard a military
band passing under my window, playing very tolerably a
French air. It was the first day of the Kooban Byran, one
of the great feasts. The troops were going to mosque.
On
their return I was much amused by seeing such a burlesque
upon soldiers as I should have condemned at a theatre as
over-acted; the men were evidently quite out of their ele-
ment in breeches and coats, which would have fitted persons
twice their size, for they are all boys. Many of them were
blacks: they had no collars, stocks, or shirts; their ears,
and almost their eyes, were enveloped in red caps, and they
were walking and talking in the most irregular manner.
My appearance caused great disorder in their ranks, as they
all turned round to look at an European; and as some were
holding their muskets horizontally over their shoulders, some
carrying them perpendicularly, a sad confusion was the con-
sequence. The officers held their swords in one hand before
them, the other being generally in the breeches pocket. I
do not know whether the novelty of having such an appen-
dage to the costume, or the cold morning, was the reason of
this unmilitary posture, nor am I sure whether the troops
were intended to be in lines; but as the band was playing
and the officers were at stated distances, it is probable they
Their guns were very clean and in good order; they
were of French manufacture; the band did credit to their
teachers, who were of the same nation.
were.
The mosques were no sooner emptied, than the forts on
either side began their thundering, and I had an oppor-
tunity of witnessing the extent of their power. They all
fired immense balls of stone, generally formed of rounded
sections or pieces of broken columns, two feet in diameter.
I went to the top of the house to witness the firing, which
was very interesting. The guns were a little diverted from
the direct line across, lest each should injure the opposite
fort; and the shot marked very curiously the course they
THE DARDANELLES.
59
took, dipping into the sea six or seven times, playing duck-
and-drake, and driving up the water as if spouted from a
whale; all this was seen before the report was heard, show-
ing remarkably the time occupied in conducting sound:
seven or eight balls were dancing in the sea at the same
time before any report was heard, producing an extremely
singular effect.
The next scene of this religious ceremony (for the firing
the guns was one) I observed in walking to Abydos; num-
bers of people were killing sheep, and others were carrying
the bodies of their sacrifice to their homes, which on this
day are the scene of hospitality. Every man who can afford
it kills a sheep; others receive parts from their richer neigh-
bour. I hoped to profit by the butchery, but not a joint
appeared at the bazaar, so that I had again my delicate diet
of chickens and broth, and at night arrow-root. The Greeks
keep Lent strictly, and it is seldom that meat can be obtained
during this season.
I never felt the wind more cutting or violent than in my
walk of four miles north-east to Abydos. Of this place so
little trace remains that I passed over it, and for a mile
and a half beyond, and gave up the search as vain. On my
return I noticed broken pottery and small stones of worked
marble in the ploughed fields, at about the place where the
town probably stood. Thus directed to the spot, and by
seeing higher up on the opposite side of the straits the pro-
montory of Sestos, I traced the foundation of the wall of a
considerable building down to the coast. Were it not for
the interest of a twofold poetic association, this spot would
not have found its way into a journal or sketch-book; but,
notwithstanding the strong wind, I hastily made a memorial
of it.
Passing up a ravine, and ascending the hill overhanging
this formerly castellated promontory, I found many remains,
valueless except as leaving a trace of former inhabitants. I
afterwards heard from the Consul, that a tomb was dis-
60
MYSIA.
covered a week before upon the height; but as the discoverer
was a rich man, he dared not make it publicly known, as he
would be taxed to any amount which the Aga chose to de-
mand, on the excuse of his having obtained a hidden treasure.
The man gave information of it to our Consul, who will be
the discoverer when a prudent time has elapsed: the account
he gave was that his plough struck a stone, and on raising
it he found a tomb, containing a skeleton, which, when he
went an hour after to examine it more minutely and pri-
vately, had crumbled to dust. His alarm at beholding this
was doubled by superstitious fear.
The Greek Consul here, Signor Nicholas Vitalis, a man
of great intelligence, has been fortunate in discovering at
tomb, containing, I believe, the only works in terra cotta
that have ever been found in this part of the country. He
has discovered three specimens, and presented me with one,

MARY
1.
THE DARDANELLES.
61
of which I give a sketch*; they are of high antiquity,
and of considerable interest from the peculiar costume.
The material is the clay now used for making crockery, and
recognised as such by the particles of mica which it con-
tains: this deposit is brought down from the mountains of
micaceous schist through which the rivers flow†.
I find it very difficult in travelling through this country
to write a journal, or pursue any occupation requiring atten-
tion; for on arriving and taking possession of my room, the
smoke is no sooner seen to rise from the chimney than the
apartment is half filled with Turks, who, with the most
friendly intention, bring their pipes and sit down, saying
everything that is kind and hospitable, and watching every
motion of my lips and hands. I can scarcely keep my coun-
tenance when I see them staring with astonishment at my
use of a knife and fork. They watch every piece of food to
my mouth; but the moment I look up, their curiosity yields.
to their natural politeness, and they turn away. After din-
ner I begin to write, and this they again watch with laugh-
able innocence of wonder: Demetrius is obliged to give
them an early hint that I am going to bed, or they would
sit all night. A few years ago they would not even look at
or speak to an infidel or a Ghiaour; whereas I now receive
the salutation of all the gazers assembled to see me mount
my horse, with its European saddle. The bridle is generally
put on wrong, with the curb-chain over the nose, and the
neck-strap buckled in front of the head, and the putting this
right excites much curiosity. The Italian Addio is known
to many
Turks as an expression of courtesy, and it serves on
all occasions of arrival or departure, or to express obligation.
The hills along the coast of the Dardanelles are a mass of
* This appears to be a veiled goddess, with a polus.
+ On my arrival in Greece I found that Signor Vitalis had presented
the other two specimens to King Otho, for the Museum in Athens,
together with some coins found also at Abydos.
62
MYSIA.
shells and sea-side rubbish, bound together with lime, form-
ing a stone sufficiently hard for building purposes; part is
of such modern formation that pieces of brick were imbedded
with the shells, which would probably prove, on examination,
On
to be all of the species at present found in these seas.
the coast was much sponge, but not ripe for use, the fleshy
coat of the animal still covering it. The small scallop-fish is
eaten as the oyster is with us, and is much esteemed: the
cockle is not exactly like ours, having a darker-coloured and
obliquely formed shell, but the taste is the same: both are
Here also are excellent little oysters, but smaller
than any we have in England. The sepia is much eaten here,
and also a brown shell-fish, in form similar to a large snail,
and larger than a pigeon's egg.
eaten raw.
FRENCH STEAMBOAT.
THE TURKS.
63
CLIMATE.-
DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY-BAZAARS.-CHANGE OF COSTUME BY
HABITS OF THE PEOPLE. - DANCING DERVISES.
ANTIQUITIES. THE SULTAN.-HIS POLICY.-SITUATION OF THE CITY.
a
CHAPTER III:
CONSTANTINOPLE.
ARRIVAL AT CONSTANTINOPLE.
—
In the evening of the 7th of March the steamboat from
Smyrna, a French vessel, appeared, twelve hours after its
usual time; and, being unable to face the stream and storm
of wind and snow, cast anchor for the night. On the
morning of the 8th, at eight o'clock, I went on board. The
usual time required for the voyage to Constantinople is
from twelve to sixteen hours: our passage took forty-eight;
and most miserable hours they were, for it blew hard the
whole time; the mingled snow and spray made it difficult
even for the crew to remain at their posts. I was the only
passenger in the principal cabin, which had every requisite
of splendour and luxury, but no fire or stove. I was in
bed almost the whole time, but never lost the numbness
of cold in my feet. The captain and mate took their
scanty dinner with me. I cannot like the middle classes of
the French nation, particularly in travelling and in rough
weather; they have little idea of cleanliness, never shaving
or dressing, and often exhibit all that is disgusting in the
64
CONSTANTINOPLE.
epicure added to the German unmannerly mode of eating;
but perhaps my comfortless voyage has made me hyper-
critical. I will therefore pass on to the pleasure of arriving
on the morning of Saturday, the 9th of March, at this place,
the Eastern capital,--a name which in childhood was a fre-
quent lesson in my copy-book, and from which I now date
my letters, Constantinople, or, as it is called by the Turks,
Stámbool. On landing, I observed vast numbers of por-
pusses, which seemed to threaten to upset the light boats
or caifes which swarm on the water. The Turks always
squat at the bottom of these boats, which are very like
canoes; but to the European, who sits higher or stands, they
are a dangerous conveyance.
March 13th.—I have now been four days in the city,
and each day the snow has continued to fall, and the wind
is still north-east. On my noticing the severity of the
weather, the people say, "Yes, we always have this weather
at this season;" and, both from the state of vegetation and
the accounts given by residents here, I am persuaded that
we English are strangely mistaken with regard to the
climate of this country, as well as of Italy, fancying from
the great heat of the summer that there is no cold season.
I am told that the winters here are extremely long and
severe, and that the use of fur is greater than in any part
of northern Europe; every person, male or female, rich
or poor, being clothed in fur, varying from the richest
sable to the most common skins. The houses are certainly
built for a warm season; but Dr. Millingen, a resident
here for many years, with whom I conversed about the
climate, says very truly that it is easier to obtain artificial
heat than cold; the people can warm themselves in winter,
but could not cool an European-built house in summer.
The snow has not prevented my ramblings, but all my
associations of luxury and sunshine with the East, which
have hitherto accompanied minarets, are, like the vegetation
CONSTANTINOPLE.
65
here, folded in the bud: in a warmer atmosphere they may
expand. I can only speak of the substantial features of the
city, and must leave its gayer colouring to poets, or those
who may visit it during a more genial season.
The streets of Constantinople are certainly better than
those of other eastern cities, but I know none in Europe
that I can mention to convey an idea sufficiently bad even
for the best of them. In some a carriage may be, and occa-
sionally is, dragged along, but the partial pavement renders.
it unsafe. The conveyance for ladies is drawn by a single
horse or ox, led by a man, the body swinging like a ham-
mock; yet I know not what danger there can be, for there
is not width to allow of the carriage being upset; and as
the ladies sit at the bottom, they cannot be jolted from
their seats. The wheels and body are all carved and gilded,
and hung with drapery of gay colours; but these carriages
are not numerous; for besides the above objections to their
use, all the districts of the city-Pera, Galatea, Constan-
tinople, and the Seraglio Point, or Golden Horn,—being
situated on a series of hills, the greater number of the streets
would be impassable for such a conveyance. For all com-
mercial purposes connected with the shipping the water
must be crossed, therefore boats are used with more advan-
tage than carriages, and the fares are very low. Horses stand
in the streets for hire, as hackney-coaches with us.
The mosques are prodigious masses of building, piled
together without plan or reference to outward effect. But
the elegant minarets are redeeming features, and render the
general effect almost beautiful, especially when backed by a
clear horizon. The proportion which the mosques bear in
size to all other buildings is so colossal, that this alone
renders them imposing: in fact there are no other public
edifices, unless the bazaars may be so called. These are
delightful places of amusement, through which you may
walk perhaps for miles, generally under cover of a kind of
66
CONSTANTINOPLE.
arched vault. From the outside, or from any neighbouring
hill, they look like a series of ovens or dome-tops rising from
flat roofs. In these covered streets or bazaars camels and
asses have free passage; and on either side are shops, or
shop-boards, with the vendors on their knees, or leaping
about like frogs over their various wares, which are arranged
in the manner most tempting to those fond of gay colours
and gaudy embroidery. The trades generally are in separate
compartments, each having its bazaar: the one for ancient
arms, or rather armour of all ages, is quite a museum; but
the articles generally sold are clothing and ornaments of a
costly kind, and these are very dear.
The people in the East spare no expense in dress. They
wear a garment for a great length of time, but it would
ruin an active-bodied, weather-braving inhabitant of northern
Europe to dress as they do here. Their furs, shawls, arms,
and embroidery are each a little fortune, and not kept as
holiday-clothes, but worn daily. The price of a travelling
cap of lambskin from Persia was eight pounds: a piece of
material of cheap imitation Persia shawl, for a dressing-
gown, was seven pounds ten shillings; an embroidered
tobacco-bag, four pounds; and yet the buyers of these things
count their paras (about four to a farthing) and spend little
except in dress.
The bazaars for spices, scents, drugs, and dried fruits have
each their peculiar and often pleasing perfume. That for
shoes forms one of the gayest marts; not a pair of black
ones is to be sold. I see "Day and Martin" advertised,
but this must be for the Frank population alone, who do
not frequent the Turkish bazaar for the purchase of shoes.
The lambskins of which I spoke are generally from As-
tracan, but are produced in most of the southern countries.
I have seen some of inferior quality in the South of Italy;
the peculiarity of the most valued is that the wool is of close,
firm little curls, and the colour glossy black: this is obtained
CONSTANTINOPLE.
67
by the following process. A short time before the ewe
lambs she is killed, and the lamb extracted; the skin never
having been exposed to the atmosphere, the wool retains.
the closeness of its curls. Should the skin happen to be
purely black the prize is great, its value being about a guinea,
while the sheep and lamb alive would not be worth three
shillings. In Italy the lamb is dropped before it is sacrificed
for its skin, in consequence of which the value seldom exceeds
a few shillings; this is done probably in order to preserve
the mother, whose life is there of more value than in Asia
Minor or Persia.
The change to European manners and costume is far from
becoming to these people, and the painter cannot but regret
it; many years must elapse before the new dress and habits
will harmonize with their character. The mere substitution
of trousers for their loose dress interferes seriously with
their old habits; they all turn in their toes, in consequence
of the Turkish manner of sitting, and they walk wide and
with a swing, from being habituated to the full drapery; this
gait has become natural to them, and in their European
trousers they walk in the same manner. They wear wide-
topped loose boots, which push up their trousers: Welling-
ton boots would be still more inconvenient, as they must slip
them off six times a day for prayers. In this new dress they
cannot with comfort sit or kneel on the ground, as is their
custom; and they will thus be led to use chairs, and with
chairs they will want tables. But were these to be intro-
duced, their houses would be too low, for their heads would
almost touch the ceiling. Thus by a little innovation might
their whole usages be unhinged.
The change that has been introduced shows the wonderful
power of the Sultan over the people; all has apparently been
done by example, and by the influence of that universal power
fashion. The Turk, proud of his beard, comes up from the
province a candidate for, or to receive, the office of governor.
68
CONSTANTINOPLE.
The Sultan gives him an audience, passes his hand over his
own short-trimmed beard; the candidate takes the hint, and
appears the next day shorn of his honoured locks. The
Sultan, who is always attired in a plain blue frock-coat, asks
of the aspirant for office if he admires it; he of course
praises the costume worn by his patron; whereupon the
Sultan suggests that he would look well in it, as also in the
red unturbaned fez. The following day the officer again
attends to receive or lose his appointment; and to promote
the progress of his suit, throws off his costly and beautiful
costume, and appears like the Sultan in the dull unsightly
frock. A regimental cloak may sometimes be seen covering
a fat body inclosed in all the robes of the Turkish costume,
the whole bundle, including the fur-lined gown, being strapped
together round the waist. Some of the figures are literally as
broad as long, and have a laughable effect on horseback. The
saddles for the upper classes are now generally made of the
European form; but the people, who cannot give up their
accustomed love of finery for plain leather, have them mostly
of purple or crimson velvet embroidered with silver or gold,
the holsters ornamented with beautiful patterns. The horses
are small, but very good and showy. Every gentleman in the
street is on horseback, with one, two, three, or four servants,
according to his rank, walking by his side, one carrying the
pipe.
I witnessed the very curious religious ceremony of the
Dervises, a most extraordinary sight. There is no doubt
that it has high antiquity as a religious ceremony, and the
performance is not so laughably ridiculous as I had expected
from descriptions and pictures. There were fifteen dancing
at the same time, and I never saw more signs of devotion than
during the whole service of prayers and dance; the dance
indeed appears to be a religious rhapsody. The performers
generally continued to turn during three or four minutes,
then bowed, and almost immediately recommenced turning;
CONSTANTINOPLE.
69

during the whole time the eyes appeared closed, and the pe-
culiar effect was given by the perfect fixedness of the body,
head, and arms. They assumed a certain position, and I
could with difficulty perceive the movement of their feet, and
almost felt at a loss to account for the rotatory motion given
to the figure. These Dervises are a very small sect, and
although followers of the Prophet, they are quite distinct
from the rest of the Mahometans; they have here a little
privileged convent. I hope to learn more of their history.
David danced before the altar, the Chinese dance during
prayer, and many pagan nations have had the same cus-
tom. The music accompanying the ceremony is simple and
monotonous, and performed on a long pipe and a tabor or
drum.
Constantinople has a few standing relics of antiquity,—an
aqueduct, still carrying water to a part of the town, and one
or two iron-bound columns, which have suffered more from
fires than from age. It has a fine obelisk, brought by the
Romans from Egypt; the pedestal has been carved by the
Romans, in the style of a rather base age: on the lower part
is a chariot-race, sculptured in a better style and apparently
70
CONSTANTINOPLE.
L
of an earlier school. This is unconnected in subject with the
upper part. One of the most curious remains is the "Cistern
of a Thousand and One Columns ;" it is subterranean, and
is now used as a silk factory. It is a chamber supported by
columns, bearing arches of Roman brick from one to the
other. I counted two hundred and thirty standing, and I
cannot see how a greater number could have been placed
here. Perhaps from their form each may be considered as
composed of two columns, one above the other; the two are
visible: but even should another joint or portion be below the

K
level of the floor of earth, still the number would fall short of
this eastern appellation. Of this term, as applied to indefi-
nite numbers, there are many instances; amongst others,
the 'Thousand and One Nights,' and a mass of ruins of
Christian churches called the Thousand and One Churches.'
But, whatever be the origin of the name, it is certainly a
very curious place, and from its great height and depth, can
1
CONSTANTINOPLE.
71
have been nothing but a cistern. I have copied some sin-
gular characters, cut deeply on most of the granite pillars,
apparently at the time of their erection, sometimes upon
various parts of the capitals, sometimes upon the junctions
of the columns. I think they are Phoenician or Byzan-
tine; perhaps they may be only numbers or monograms.
The mosques contain many marble pillars, and sarco-
phagi from ancient cities; the latter are now used as
cisterns; but these marbles have been transported from
all parts of Asia Minor, and can only be looked upon as
remains of the country at large.
I have said that the people here eat a kind of shell-fish
like a snail: I find it is a snail, and not a native of the
sea, although sold by the fish-dealers. This morning I saw
a dozen hampers of them; the well-known tender-horned
inhabitants were gently peeping forth, but an occasional
shake given to the hamper made them retire into their
shells; the large brown kind I have before mentioned is
the most common, but the people here also eat the more
delicate small ones; as they are not considered meat, they
add to the limited fare of the Catholics during the fasts.
It is now Lent, and hence the greater display of them in
the streets. The snail found in the chalk-pits near Epsom,
and said to have been introduced into England nearly a cen-
tury ago for medicinal purposes, appears to me of precisely
the same species*.
Among the hospitable presents that I have frequently
received on my journey, was a simple preparation of cream.
used in this country, and made from the milk of the goat
or buffalo, which I have not very much liked; but here it
is made of cow's milk, and is so excellent that I give the
receipt. It is called Kymac, which means scum.
Take a
pan of new milk, let it stand on a stove or near a fire,
* Helix Pomatia.
72.
CONSTANTINOPLE.
to simmer, but not boil; a thick scum will form over it,
which must not be broken; when this is well formed, set
the whole by till the next day to stand for cream, and it
will be found that the cream has saturated and adhered
to the spongy under-part of the scum: this coating, nearly
half an inch thick, may be taken off, and doubled or rolled
up; it will keep for some days, and is excellent with fruit
or coffee, and good with anything. The people here seem.
to use it as a substitute for butter, which latter is supplied
entirely from Russia; but neither here nor at Smyrna have
I ever tasted it fresh or good. The butter is low-priced
however, and used profusely in cakes and pastry, of which
great quantities are consumed. There is a kind of curd
or cheese, which is pressed and sold in skins; it is spread
upon or eaten with bread, but has a sourish unpleasant
taste. I have also occasionally seen as a luxury a descrip-
tion of whipped cream, which is eaten as butter: it is white
and opake, and not greasy. Butter, I believe, was never
made by the ancient Greeks*.
The Turks are by no means a dirty people; their hands,
feet, and faces are always religiously kept clean. I know
no European country where there is so little annoyance.
from offensive impurities in the streets. I do not remember
ever seeing a Turk spit; what a contrast to the manners
of France, Italy, and Germany! Yet none smoke more
than this people, but they smoke in a cleanly manner,
always with a mouth-piece; so that the pipe never enters
the lips, and may therefore be, as it often is, without in-
delicacy, handed to a friend. I have never made a trifling
purchase without my servant taking the pipe of the shopman
while he attends to me with his wares. When there is any
* "Butter was unknown to the ancient Greeks; they have no word
which expresses an idea of it: BouTupov signifies cheese, or coagulum of
cow's milk," (Beloe's Herodotus, book 4. ch. 3.)—a very good descrip-
tion of the substance I have named as made by the present inhabitants.
CONSTANTINOPLE.
73
question about price, a pipe is handed, and the parties sit
down to smoke, and consider the difference between them;
this has often happened to me in making bargains for
horses. But the Turks in their dealings are generally fair,
and their claims for increased price seem always made with
reason and justice.
It was my intention to have started hence yesterday,
the 15th of March, but a new commander-in-chief and head
of police having been just appointed, it was necessary to
obtain the signatures of the new officers to my firman,
which is just sent home,—a prodigious document, for en-
suring to me every personal accommodation and assistance
on my journey. There is another for obtaining horses,
and a third to be used on a new road opened only a few
months ago.
I have seen the Sultan today: he is certainly, considering
the people whom he governs, one of the most wonderful
men of the age. That reform should be carried into effect,
with even dangerous rapidity, among a people ten years
ago considered incapable of change, and whose religious
habits, education, ideas, and very nature were all opposed
to change, and that the whole of these reforms should have
been introduced so quickly, show that the Sultan has not
only a powerful mind to plan, but an equal energy to
effect, such astonishing changes. Within these five or six
years, upon his going publicly to mosque, as is always
the custom, he was shaded by plumes and dressed in all
the cumbrous robes and jewels associated with eastern
pomp. At that time it was scarcely safe to look up as
he passed; the offence of pointing at him was repressed
by summary punishment, and report says that the scimitar
was seldom long idle in its scabbard. Now, on the con-
trary, he wears a red cap, or fez, with a star in front, and
a military European blue cloak over a plain blue uniform.
He rides on an European saddle, and retains none of his
E
74
CONSTANTINOPLE.
former state, except the fumes of incense rising from a
censer swung by a page who precedes him. When I saw
him he was attended by thirty or forty officers on horse-
back, all in the same plain uniform, and he rode for
about three-quarters of a mile along the street lined on
either side by soldiers: a band played as he approached.
In fact no feature of the ceremony would have appeared
extraordinary in any European capital; and there was
scarcely an individual among the thousands that attended,
who had not completely changed costume, manners, and
almost opinions, during the last few years. In the seraglio
the ladies show their faces when attended by their music,
drawing, and French masters; and in so doing at least
three offences against the Mahometan law are committed;
—that a man should be admitted into the harem, that
women should be unveiled before men, and that Maho-
metans should be taught to imitate natural objects and
to speak a foreign tongue.
Curious instances are shown, however, of the difficulty
of subduing the prejudices of an ignorant people. One
very unpopular reform which the Sultan had to effect, in
the formation of his troops, was that of their wearing braces,
―a necessary accompaniment to the trousers: and why?
because these form a cross, the badge of the infidel, upon
the back: many indeed will submit to severe punishment,
and even death, for disobedience to military orders, rather
than bear upon their persons this sign, hostile to their reli-
gion. No one can appreciate the difficulty of making the
first change among this people, without knowing their cha-
racter: succeeding changes will follow with comparatively
little opposition. It is amusing to see the longing after old
habits, which have become in fact the very nature of the
older people: their beards are rather concealed than cut off;
and, in spite of the plain blue frock-coat, I often see beneath
it costly embroidered vests. This habitual indulgence in
CONSTANTINOPLE.
75
variety and extravagance of dress, it will require time to
subdue.
The Sultan does not appear to be above fifty years of age;
he has a short, trim, black beard, sits extremely well and up-
right on his horse, and looks as if he would in the natural
course of life see many more years of change. He is sus-
pected of being a Christian; and certainly his exertions are
doing far more than any other means now at work to remove
the superstitions of Mahometanism; and these reforms may
perhaps prepare the way for further changes in the religion
of the people. Here the barriers of the Mahometan law are
falling fast, and there is now as much religious freedom in
this as in any city in the world. There are many picture-
shops, and portraits of the Sultan are seen exposed in all of
them, and this by his command. The devices on the em-
broidered clothes and the painted ceilings and fronts of
houses now represent flowers, guns, and flags,—objects in
nature or art,-which is a direct violation of the laws of the
Koran; but it would be endless to relate the changes in
progress here. It is for this reason that the villages and in-
terior of the country are more interesting to the traveller;
there the change is scarcely perceptible, the natural man-
ners and character of the people remaining undisturbed. In
Constantinople the turban and the variety of head-dresses,
which I have before described, are comparatively unseen,
every one wearing the red cap; and the character of the
people is changing as quickly as the costume.
The weather is now very fine, but still bitterly cold. I
cannot face the north-east wind, to make an excursion up the
Bosphorus to the Black Sea. The straits, as far as I have
seen them, are exceedingly beautiful; the continued ravines.
or sheltered dells on either side, with palaces and villas down
to the water's edge, are rich and picturesque, and present a
contrast to the bare hills above them.
The natural situation of Constantinople is lovely, and
E 2
76
CONSTANTINOPLE.
appears designed for the site of a great city. I know no
capital which covers so many and such steep hills, and to
this peculiar character it owes the whole of its beauty; in-
deed I have never seen a city so picturesque, viewed from
every point around. The activity among the people, both
on land and water, is amusing; they seem like bees, and
their city somewhat resembles a hive. The boats completely
speckle the water, and as I have watched them at a distance,
they appeared to me stationary; but hundreds succeed to
hundreds, moving in all directions, yet from their similarity
producing the effect of fixed objects. In London the tides
and the stream of the Thames influence the course of ves-
sels upon it, but these waters have more the appearance of
a lake, with equal traffic from all sides. I can frequently
count from my window six or seven steamboats; their intro-
duction is recent, as is also the opening of a bridge, built to
unite Pera with Constantinople; it was to form a drive for
the Sultan from one palace to another. The bridge is already
passable, but the streets leading to it are not yet formed.
It is said that few persons remain a week in this city with-
out witnessing a fire; one broke out yesterday, but before I
could reach the spot it was subdued. The largest houses
are frequently burnt down in the space of ten minutes, being
entirely constructed of a very inflammable wood. The fire-
engines are numerous, but, having to be transported on men's
shoulders, they are small. The English, French, and Dutch
ambassadors' palaces, all in Pera (the district of the city
where the Franks live), are in ruins, and their respective
governments are tardy in rebuilding them. The ambassadors
reside at their country-houses, twelve miles distant.
77
CHAPTER IV.
BITHYNIA.
DEPARTURE FROM CONSTANTINOPLE.—BURIAL-GROUND.—NEW ROAD.-
DIL FERRY.-MANNERS OF THE PEOPLE.THE COUNTRY.-NATURAL
HISTORY.-ARRIVAL AT NICEA. — ITS REMAINS.
OF
INSCRIPTION.-PASS OF THE MOUNTAIN LEFKY.—VIZIER KHAN. —
POWER OF THE FIRMAN.-SOHOÓT.
REMAINS.-DISCOVERY
Saturday, March 17th.-We left Constantinople this morn-
ing at seven o'clock, but were detained at Oóscooda, the
opposite town on the Asiatic side, waiting for horses, until
ten.
These Turks are luxurious fellows; the post-master left
word that he had waited for us until past eight, and was then
at his bath; and as he had to sign my post firman, I was
obliged to wait patiently till he had completed his toilet. A
governor is never to be seen until after eleven in the morning,
being in his harem, which, with his bath and mosque, occupy
much of his day.
For some miles on the way, after leaving Oóscooda, on
either side of the road were burial-grounds, whose groves of
cypress-trees give a striking feature to hills otherwise unin-
teresting; but the view from them of the city, and its splen-
did situation, will always reward the traveller who may visit
them.
The whole line of our journey skirted the eastern
shores of the Sea of Marmora, and passed the series of
78
BITHYNIA.
islands ending with Prince's Isle; but the chain of eminences
is continued by a similar isolated rocky hill upon the coast,
and three others which carry on the range towards the
north-east, diminishing in size towards the end of the curve,
until the termination is marked by the small brown rocks
opposite the entrance to the Bosphorus from the Sea of
Marmora. The shore is somewhat monotonous, from its
continued undulations, and has no village, or even trees, to
give it interest, the whole line of country being for the
most part barren. Much of the land is capable of better
cultivation, but the greater part would always prove unpro-
fitable.
There is one feature in this country which is very striking,
but more so to the Turks than Europeans,-a new road, or
rather a road; for this is, I believe, the only one in Asia
Minor. This splendid line, extending at present as far as
Ismid, a distance of about sixty miles, was designed by the
Austrians, and bears their character even to its rails, bar-
riers, bridges, and mile-posts, all being striped with diagonal
lines of black and white. I speak of the design of the road
only, for at present it is formed merely of the natural soil of
the country, which is far too rich, even in this part, to make
carriage-roads without the assistance of M'Adam. It will
require a long time to complete such an undertaking; and
indeed it is wonderful how much has already been done, op-
posed as the work has been by the strong stream of preju-
dice. The regulations of the road are quite completed; for
instance, I was charged for two carriages, one for myself, the
other for my luggage; but on asking for them, was told that
at this season they could not run upon the road, on account
of the mud; the charge was however the same, and I was to
take horses instead. I soon came to a barrier, and was asked
for my post firman, which was to be signed, being in fact
nothing more nor less than a passport, an instrument hitherto
unknown in this country. The road is also divided into
CONSTANTINOPLE TO NICEA.
79
posts, at which we change horses, having had three sets in
the space of thirty-three miles: this may appear an advan-
tage over the usual course of taking post-horses for the day
or journey, but we found (perhaps owing to the people's in-
experience, or natural slowness,) that more than an hour
was lost at each post in re-packing the luggage upon the
fresh horses.
It was nearly seven o'clock in the evening when we ar-
rived at Dil Ferry, a solitary house on the sea-coast, contain-
ing one very large room, or caffé, but little resembling an
European one. We took possession of our corner, and were
as usual independent of the other company, which consisted
of eight or nine people, boatmen, boys, and post-guides.
These people were until ten o'clock highly entertaining, and
afterwards all lay down in different parts, and I hope slept;
one poor man had a sad asthma, and six dogs and two cats
were until five in the morning continually exerting their
vocal powers at the door, making such a confusion of noises
as I scarcely ever heard.
The opinion that I formed of the Turkish character from
my
first observations of their manners was a totally mistaken
one. All their taciturnity and dignified appearance is as-
sumed, more particularly in the higher classes. This I have
had frequent opportunities of observing in the khans and
coffee-houses, and in my own rooms each evening, as well as
among the innumerable companions by whom we are joined
on the road. Sociability is here carried almost too far, all
travellers joining company, and forming a sort of caravan,—
a custom which originates probably in the necessity of pro-
tection.
I certainly never met with more determined wits than
among the lower classes of the people here, in whom the
national character is most easily read. Though in perfect
ignorance of their language, I have been so amused by their
inimitable acting and buffoonery, and by their games and
80
BITHYNIA.
even childish tricks, that I have laughed until they fancied
I understood them, and began to talk to me: my servant
was interpreter on these occasions, and their observations
and repartees were so pointed, that he hesitated in translat-
ing them to me literally. In the coffee-room last night game
succeeded game, all ages joining; and one man,
who was
unwittingly made the laughing-stock of the party, having
had his face blackened while sleeping, took the joke in excel-
lent humour, and enjoyed it as much as any of the party.
The games are generally very simple, perhaps almost childish:
no species of gambling is known. Our postillion today, the
ugliest and most unprepossessing fellow I ever saw, headed
us for forty-eight miles on horseback, whistling and hooting
after the baggage-horses with as much animation and noise
as a huntsman. On our halt for half an hour in the middle
of the day, I counted a crowd of people around us, nearly
thirty in number, who were all taking the most ridiculous
interest in our party, and joking with my servant and guide.
On seeing me look at my watch and map, and then at my
compass, one of these bystanders said something in a very
significant manner, which I learned was, "Ah! you can tell
anything that is, but you cannot, with all your things, say
what weather we shall have tomorrow." The remark was
quick, and showed a readiness of thought; but what I would
more particularly notice is their love of buffoonery and
sprightliness of manners; the boys are constantly saying
something smart, that makes my servant laugh, and he in
his turn with his whip makes them scamper off.
In the morning I was up at six o'clock, and by half-past
on board the boat which was to ferry us to the opposite long
neck of land stretching out from Ersek, the ancient Dra-
pane. There we had to await the arrival of horses, for
which we sent to the village of Ersek, lying about two miles
off inland. After sketching the view to the east of the
Gulf of Nicomedia (now Ismid), and rambling along the
CONSTANTINOPLE TO NICEA.
81
1
flat, swampy promontory, I examined the shore, which was
entirely formed of shells mixed with weeds, drifted lightly
in, and but little broken. I saw no shells but of the com-
mon kinds. The echini were very numerous, with many
varieties of the scallop, muscle, and cockle; and there were
masses, almost amounting to little rocks, of the worm-like.
cases of the serpula, which are so often seen attached to the
shells of fish.
Several of the plants were curious. I observed the butcher-
broom* as a common shrub, and a species of asparagus†
sometimes growing to the tops of the high trees as a creeper.
There are water-birds here of all kinds; snipes abound, and
the stork builds undisturbed on every public eminence. Why
does it always select for this purpose the most public spots,
the top of a chimney, a pump, or the trees in the centre of
the court-yard of a khan or public square? It makes a loud
chattering noise, entirely instrumental, with its bill, at the
same time throwing its head back with a graceful curve; it
does this as an indication of pleasure, and generally on the
return of the mate.
At the bottom of the shallow clear water, on either side of
the road, I saw the tortoise: but I suppose the early morn-
ing was too cold for it to venture out of the water, as I have
seen none on the land today. On passing through the small
village from which the horses had been procured, I traced
for half a mile its ancient towered walls; and the tombs and
paved water-road gave the usual indications of the site of an
ornamented city, and supplied now its only memorials.
Ascending gradually to the hills we forded the river above
twenty times, in preference to passing through the stiff mud
of the roads: the guides generally seem to avoid the common
track, which is always the most impassable. The scenery
now became wild and beautiful; one isolated hill, round
*Ruscus aculeatus.
+ Asparagus acutifolius.
E 3
82
BITHYNIA.
which the river flowed, I observed, had its summit sur-
rounded with a wall, apparently a Roman work; eight or
ten circular towers were still standing. The Turkish name
is Chobon Kálasy ('Shepherd's Castle'), and it has probably
been a little fortified town. The hills are of a slaty lime-
stone, and are much veined with marble. On the opposite
side of a little brook, not four yards from us, lay a dead
horse by the side of the stream. The party which were
feeding upon it were enjoying their meal greatly: two eagles
were perched upon the body, whose heads were continually
diving between the ribs; on the neck were three crows, and
at its head and eyes were two magpies; another eagle, quite
satiated, was wiping his bill against the hoofs. So intent
were they all on their meal, that even the noise of our horses
and our shouts caused only the last-mentioned guest to take
flight, which he did with much dignified composure. The
smaller birds heeded not the eagles, nor did the eagles
notice us.
Today I saw several specimens of that beautiful bird the
hoopoe, which is new to me in its wild state. It perches
on the trees, gliding among the branches as silently as the
woodpecker, and is here extremely bold; my servant has
several times marked it to a small tree, which he has ap-
proached, and even beaten the branches; failing to start it
he has returned, thinking it gone, when the bird has flown
from the tree with a flight similar to that of the blackbird.
The hills are almost wholly mounds of rich earth; indeed
the soil is so deep, that where they are at all abrupt the
rains have burst the surface and formed landslips; for twenty
miles the country was but scantily cultivated, and had little
timber, although capable of producing anything. At Koós-
dervent (the 'Pass of the Girls') the mulberry is much cul-
tivated, this district supplying the best silk sent to Brúsa,
the great mart for silk manufactures.
Leaving this place we passed through underwood and
CONSTANTINOPLE TO NICEA,
83
shrubs, all evergreens, and to the eye of an Englishman the
richest that could be. There were the common and dwarf
daphnes, the blossom of the latter scenting the air; many
varieties also of the laurestinus, and among them the straw-
berry-tree*, whose luxuriant foliage and beautifully clean
and oriental stem distinguished it above its rivals. It grows
so large and plentifully as to be the principal firewood,
burning rapidly with a great blaze. Amidst this perfect
garden, for beneath our feet were violet, hyacinth, and
anemone, in great variety,—the most beautiful view opened
before us, not grand, but of perfectly lovely beauty. In the
extreme distance was the snowy range of Olympus, and be-
fore it a series of fine mountains, with their feet bathed in
the most placid of lakes, the ancient Ascania, which is about
ten miles long and four in breadth. At the southern end of
the lake, beautifully situated, stood the ruined towers of the
many times famous Nicæa. Beneath us, sloping from our
feet to the edge of the lake, was a highly cultivated and rich
valley. We were still twelve miles distant from the town of
Nicæa, and every turn we made in the descent only varied
the beauties of the scene. After a ride of about forty-six
miles, we arrived before six o'clock, on the 19th of March,
at the ancient Nicæa. Entering through a hole in the walls
of this famed and fated city, we had still another mile to
travel through fields and mulberry plantations before we
arrived at the village of Isnik, a small place standing within
the walls, which form a circuit of four miles around it. As
I passed on to this village everything has shown such variety
of interest that I have determined to rest a day here.
March 20th.-Seldom have I had a harder day's work
than in attempting to see and comprehend this ruin of ruins.
The points of the greatest interest are the relics of its
earliest age; little of that date now remains standing in its
* Arbutus Unedo.
84
BITHYNIA.
original from; but the grandeur and peculiar beauty of the
arts among the earlier Greeks cannot be concealed even in
the broken materials. Three square towers and their con-
necting walls are evidently built out of the ruins of one
magnificent temple, which probably stood on or near their
site. The stones, which are of white marble, are so well
squared, that, although put together (probably by the Ro-
mans) without cement, the joints are generally too close to
admit the blade of a knife between them. Each stone is
also grooved along the edge, as if a line of metal had con-
cealed the joint; the face of the stone has still a polished
surface, whilst the groove is left scarcely smooth, showing
the mark of the tool. If this groove were filled with metal,

the building must have combined splendour with simple
grandeur. Temples in Sacred History are described as
glittering with gold, perhaps from this mode of covering
the joints. The cornices are of wreaths of acanthus leaves,
with bold dentals and the usual Corinthian ornaments; but
an idea of the whole building can only be formed from the
grand scale of the blocks, and the highly-finished workman-
ship of the detached fragments. Other parts of the walls
are composed of the relics of apparently an earlier age,—
immense stones cut to fit into each other, without the atten-
tion which was paid in later ages to the horizontal courses:
NICEA.
85
these would rank as Cyclopean. Again, some parts of the
walls are entirely Roman, being of brick, and with arches
built in the most substantial style; while others are formed
of marbles of a much less pure age, in which the cross
(always found among the ornaments) and the ill-proportioned
figures and letters in the inscriptions give them the date of
the earlier Christians. On three of the towers in the walls
of the city are three similar inscriptions*. In other parts
of the walls are many inscribed marbles, built in, without
regard to their inscriptions, some sideways, some reversed.
I observed two fragments of basso-rilievo, probably part
of a frieze, equal to the marbles of the Athenian Parthenon,
but much mutilated; they were three feet deep, and one of
them nine feet long, the other fragments shorter. The cor-
nice on the lid of a sarcophagus, built into the wall as mate-
rial, bore an inscription†. The carvings generally were of

MAYAEINO AOYL TOY SHEARETH 1ZXAIPE
a baser age. There were several statues the size of life, and
one colossal head, a Medusa, placed over a gateway, probably
*The sign of the cross is prefixed to all three. The translation is
"The Tower of Michael the Great King, Emperor in Christ." To the
first one the date is added, viz. the year of the world STIS, i.e. 6316.
+ “Paulinus son of Aulius lived seventeen years. Farewell."
86
BITHYNIA.
E
in its original position. Four gateways, of which the north
and south-east are the most important and perfect, are
standing in the middle wall (for the town is partly inclosed
by a small outer Turkish wall), and upon these are portions
of inscriptions, but purposely so much erased that I did not
copy the few lines remaining. Each has also had metallic
inscriptions, the holes in the marble for attaching them now
only remaining to indicate the shape of the letters. At the
two principal arched entrances were immense gateways of a
square form, built of very large stones. I was much inter-
ested in one of these from seeing a stone near the spot,
which I was sure from its form must be the fellow stone to
one containing part of an inscription that I had seen over
the gateway; and if so, its under side would probably have
another portion of the same inscription. I soon collected a
number of men, and for a few pence had the stone turned
over, and discovered the characters as fresh as if just cut.
The men seeing me refer to a book said, "Yes, the Franks
know by their books where all the writing and gold are con-
cealed;" always fancying that we search for inscriptions to
find treasure. We certainly did find a small coin, but only
four hundred years old, probably of the time when the stone
fell, for the coin was exposed beneath it. Searching about
I found by the road-side three other stones, lying on the
sides of a ditch, and all inscribed in the same style of cha-
racter as that over the gateway. Judging that they might
complete the inscription, I took copies and drawings of all*.
* The translation of this inscription, thus completed, is as follows:-
"The very splendid and large and good city of the Nicaeans [erects] this
wall for the autocrat Cæsar, Marcus Aurelius Claudius, the pious, the
fortunate, august, of Tribunitial authority, second time Proconsul,
Father of his Country, and for the Sacred Senate and the People of the
Romans, in the time of the illustrious Velleius Macrinus, formerly Con-
sul, Legate, and Lieutenant of the august Cæsar Antoninus, the splendid
orator."
NICEA.
87
Upon one of the towers of the wall an inscription rudely
formed with tiles is built in edgeways. The name
“Theo-
dorus" appears, and the whole is probably of Christian
date.
In the midst of the half-buried ruins of the ancient city
are some curious remains of an early Greek theatre. The
avenues, out of which are large chambers or vaults, now all
subterranean, are built of descending arches tending to a
centre, probably at the area of the theatre. The workman-
ship is extremely good, and is colossal, the stones being
some nine, and others fourteen, feet in length. Entering
with lights, we saw that many of these chambers much
resembled each other, and that they were all extremely
perfect. We encountered thousands of bats, flying towards
the entrance in a cloud; and as they rushed out we were
obliged to crouch down, to prevent their striking our
faces, or with the flapping of their wings extinguishing our
candles.
A very small church still stands within the present town,
which, from its mosaic floor and ceiling, may probably be of
the date of St. Mark's at Venice, or rather of the Byzantine
age.
Every fence, step, trough, or paving-stone is from this
quarry of art; many fragments of good sculpture are also
built into the houses. Without the walls is a Roman aque-
duct, which still supplies the town with water from the
neighbouring mountain.
In the lake are the remains of a port or landing-place;
and judging from the foundations seen in the depths of this
clearest of water, these works must have been extensive.
I have taken several sketches of the exquisitely beautiful
scenery of this neighbourhood; but they cannot give an
adequate idea of the natural features of the country, although
of the architecture they may.
88
BITHYNIA.

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On the morning of the 20th of March, at eight o'clock, I
left Nicæa, passing up the valley behind the town towards
the south-east, where the. hills were covered with short
underwood of evergreens, but without timber; the valleys
were but scantily cultivated, principally for the growth of
the mulberry-tree. We gradually ascended for about twelve
miles, when, almost without being aware of it, we reached
the summit of a ridge of hills. As the view on approaching
Nicea was calm, rich and beautiful, so was this craggy, rocky
and bold. I had before seen nothing so wild and romantic
in this country: before us, as we descended through a gorge
in the rocks worthy of the Alps, the ranges of mountains
rose into rugged points, reminding me of the scenery in
Savoy. The view here was extremely grand, and perhaps
rendered more so by the sublime effect attending a stormy
day, the heavy clouds rolling apart, and thundering along
the broken chains of mountains, many of the higher peaks
being shrouded with clouds.
The ranges of mountains all yield up their rivers to the
NICEA TO COTYEIUM.
$9
Gallus, which bears them on to the ancient Sangarius. The
strata of the limestone rocks are here much contorted, and
are often perpendicular, appearing like colossal ruins; if
seen foreshortened, they resemble the aiguilles of Switzer-
land. The town of Léfky stands near the junction with the
Gallus of one of the principal rivers, which has its source in
the lake by the ancient Cæsareia, while its recipient flows
directly from Olympus.
Leaving Léfky at two o'clock, we again ascended a range
of hills, which changed the scene by opening to our view a
highly picturesque but much smaller valley, with its river,
and bold and almost perpendicular range of cliffs, attainable
only by the eagles, whose nests we saw on the broken crags.
Around us the rocks were covered with a beautiful flower,
looking like a kind of dwarf stock*. Fifteen miles brought
me to this place, Vizierkhán, which I reached by half-past
four, Demetrius having ridden forward with the firman to
obtain accommodation, which is here afforded, as it was at
Nicæa, in the house of a Greek family. At present I can-
not overcome the feeling of intrusion and obligation, and
therefore am not so independent as at a khan; but this
mode has many advantages, and one is allowing me more
time to write and draw, as I am freed from the intrusion,
amusing though it be, of the Turks, and from the gossiping
which they carry on with my servant whilst he is cooking. I
find he is stored with thimbles, needles, and scissors; and by
presents of them he makes himself very popular with the
young people of the families with whom we stay, and I ge-
nerally profit by eating the fruits given to him in return.
He received yesterday a quince, but so large that I did not
* On showing a drawing of this plant at the Linnean Society, without
naming in what country I had been rambling, I was at once told, that
it was a plant peculiar to the sides of Mount Olympus, in Bithynia,
and had never been heard of elsewhere,-that it was the Arabis
purpurea.
90
BITHYNIA.
recognize the species; it weighed, I should think, a pound;
I am to have it cooked à la Turque.
Vizierkhán has its name from an immense khan, founded
for the Hággi, or pilgrimage to Mecca. On examining the
stone of this building I have been much puzzled. I had
seen on entering Léfky, in a wall of loose stones, one which,
like the rest, was of a pale greenish colour, but contained.
beautiful specimens of fossil shells quite protruding from it;
there were a scallop or two of different sizes, and a kind of
snail or round shell, all of the same colour as the stone. I
called Demetrius back to look at them, and to show him the
difference between these shells and those we saw at Troy,
which were themselves imbedded in lime. Thinking fossils
might be common, I did not dismount from my horse. On
proceeding, I found the rocks in the neighbourhood of the
same colour, and thought they were of a greenish limestone,
or perhaps sandstone; but I now find that the khan, the
only stone building in this village, is formed of the same
material, and that it is an igneous rock, not stratified, and
speckled throughout with green schisty particles. How
comes this to contain shells? I have described the stone
in the wall at Léfky to the post-guide, and he is to send it
after me by the first Tartar coming.
March 21st.Quitting Vizierkhán, which we did this
morning by six o'clock, we again continued our ascent
amidst mountains of the same bold and craggy character,
the only vegetation being shrubs, amongst which the berries
of the arbor vite scented the air with their peculiar perfume.
The smell reminded me of painting in oils, and my servant
exclaimed, "What a strong smell of castor oil!" We at
length reached a summit, which I expected would be quite.
sterile, but found a fine cultivated country, the sloping hills
clothed with the mulberry, and the plains with corn; and
this continued with little change for about twelve or fifteen
miles, until we arrived at the town of Sohoót.
NICEA TO COTYÆIUM.
91
Here I had to wait two hours for horses; and after piling
my baggage under a wide-spreading plane-tree in the open
space in the town, my servant accompanied me in search of
antiquities. On my suggesting the possibility of the un-
guarded luggage being stolen during our absence, he replied
that the Turks might not steal, their religion forbade it;
that the things were quite safe, and the more so from their
being left exposed. During this time I was the lion of the
place. One of the chief persons begged me to tell him the
hour; and his watch and others, (if there were any others
in the town) were doubtless regulated by mine, which I
had set by guess some weeks before whilst I was watching
the sun sink into the sea.
Two very anxious-looking men came to ask me to prescribe
for their friend, who was sick, and wished me to go and see
him; my servant assured them that I was no doctor, and
advised me not to offer even simple medicines, as if the man
grew worse it would be attributed to me. His case was
simple, and I have no doubt I could have cured him; but
I have not much compunction for not having attempted it,
as his disorder had been caused by eating too much of a not
very wholesome dish called Youghoot. This food is very
common here, and generally liked by Europeans; it re-
sembles lemon cream, but is made of commoner materials,
namely new milk with a little rennet, turning it to a curd,
which is not pressed, but eaten in the consistency of jelly;
this dish is served up at all times, and with various accom-
paniments. Sometimes, for economy, a little of a former
making is kept to leaven the new batch.
92
CHAPTER V.
PHRYGIA.
A FOREST.-ONEбENOO.-SINGULAR CAVES.-MOUNTAINS AND TABLE-
LANDS. CURIOUS GEOLOGICAL FEATURES.
FEATURES. KOOTAYA. EXTRA-
ORDINARY ROCKS.-EXPEDITION TO SEEK DOGANLU.-CUSTOMS OF
THE PEOPLE.-EZANI.-ITS ANTIQUITIES.-INSCRIPTIONS.-HABITS
OF A PRIVATE FAMILY.-DELICACY OF THE MANNERS.-DEPARTURE
FOR ALTUNTASH.-SICHANLEE.-SANDOOKLEE.-DUMBARI-OVASY.-
THE PLAGUE.-CATCHIBURLOO.
S
AFTER leaving, Sohoót, we came upon a less productive
country, and the rocks, protruding through the scanty
underwood, were of volcanic production, a kind of grey-
coloured basalt, or lava. In about an hour we entered a
forest, extending for some hundreds of miles to the north-
east, till it reaches the shores of the Black Sea. In crossing
this part of it, we rode through woods of oak, fir, and plane,
with a great variety of underwood, for about twelve miles.
On the ground, among the dead leaves of the oak, sparkled
the most fresh and gay-looking flowers; the commonest,
which tinged the banks with a beautiful reddish lilac, was
the cyclamen*; and there were the snowdrop, primrose, the
beautiful dwarf hyacinth, the yellow, blue and lilac crocus,
with many others.
On quitting this forest we crossed a valley, and saw at a
distance of about four miles, under the cliffs or ranges of
* Cyclamen coum.
NICEA TO COTYEIUM.
93
mountains, the town of Oneóenoo, (meaning a 'Place of
Caves,') so called from some caves in the cliffs overhanging
the town. The situation appears very damp and unhealthy,
and the perfectly flat valley, which is almost a swamp, seems
to be the possession of plovers and wild ducks. The situa-
tion is strikingly like that of Magnesia, but the Hermus
is wanted to drain the meadows in front. The ground
here is so high that it appears to receive no waters but
from the heavens, a source which latterly has been very
liberal.
Oneóenoo is a long village immediately under the face
of the rock, and is overhung by two immense arches or
caves, which at a distance I had no doubt were artificial, the
forms of the arches being so perfect.
This evening I ascended to them, and extremely curious
they are. The whole rock is of marble, veined with red,
but shivered into innumerable cracks as if by heat. The
caves are evidently natural, although at an early age of the
Turks perhaps, or in the time of the Christians, the fronts.
have been fortified by strong walls, part of which still
remain. The caves communicate with one another, and
from their size and dryness, as well as commanding situa-
tion, they must have been an excellent substitute for a
castle. Through several small cavities or fissures in the
rock of the caves, water had at a remote period filtered,
forming a semi-transparent crust of stalactite. While in the
cave I was surprised at hearing distinctly people talking
and dogs barking as if close to the entrance, but on going
to the front of the cave I perceived that the sounds came
from the village beneath. The effect of this immense ear
or sounding-board was as powerful as a whispering gallery;
and perhaps this peculiarity might have been an advantage.
in times of war or alarm.
Several fragments of columns, altars, and other remains
were built into the walls of the houses in the town, but the
94
PHRYGIA.
principal material used was lava or scoria, of nearly every
colour; many of the spongy holes being filled with a white
crystallized substance similar to that which I have seen in
the basaltic columns of Staffa.
March 22nd.-On leaving the town, before we began the
ascent of the mountains to the south, we passed a pond or
small lake, the temperature of which was shown by steam
rising from the water; it was supplied by some hot-springs
which rise at the foot of the cliff. After ascending for a
quarter of an hour, I looked back to the valley we had left,
surrounded by its little range of low hills, and saw over
them to the north-west Olympus covered with snow, at a
distance in a straight line of at least ninety miles; but the
elevation here is very great. We continued the ascent for
an hour, and I fully expected to find myself on a barren
summit, and then to descend into more eastern climes; but
what was my surprise, on reaching the top, at seeing before
me meadows and cultivated land for twenty miles, and a
series of gentle hills and undulations beyond, still bound-
ing the view! These table-lands are a peculiarity in this
country, and materially affect its climate. Yesterday I
rode through a garden of flowers, today I have in forty miles
seen nothing in bloom except the yellow crocus. The
country is some weeks later than that of my yesterday's
ride, and many weeks later than that of the north-western
parts over which I have lately travelled. In ascending, we
passed up a craggy marble steep, down which had rolled
many rounded pieces of lava and blocks of red marble of the
kind so frequently seen in combination with the white marble,
and came to a small hill of the serpentine schist, like that
near Enáe. For fifteen miles we rode over this table-land,
almost the whole being in pasture, and here, in this wild
and high country found a burial-ground, consisting only
of a few graves, but several of them marked by columns or
cornices, and one by a richly carved pedestal or altar.
NICEA TO COTYÆIUM.
Sellllll) SANORE
.
Steiff Ne
CHAPERO
RAILWERKIN
THAILESH PAK
95
Of the carving on each side I could see but little, those
parts being sunk deep into the earth; but a figure with
wings, which was on one side, led me to believe this frag-
ment of Christian date.
w, Pola

All the hills before me presented in form the same appear-
ance, and I was the more eager to approach them as the
stones on the land were of a singular chalky, soapy appear-
ance. I had reason here to regret my slight knowledge of
geology, as I feel confident that more scientific observers
would find much that is extremely remarkable. I believe
that the whole of this district is marble or limestone, as I
have already described the mountain at Onećenoo; and the
country which we have crossed since leaving it, a distance
of forty miles to the north-west of this place (we are now
at Kootάya, the ancient Cotyæium), appears of the same
character, and but little varied. In elevation it is still on
the high plains, and the boundary hills generally appear
white and flat table tops, much and very conspicuously

96
PHRYGIA.
stratified. The intervening matter having perished, the stra-
tum remains almost a shelf; and towards the foot of the
hill are slopes of the debris from the softer parts, forming
unpicturesque heaps, apparently of lime. I observed an-
other appearance in the distance, which was extremely
singular; the background was a stratified cliff or hill, and
the lower shelf of these strata, which stood on a soft hill
of the white loose substance looking like lime, was sur-
mounted by a number of pointed sugar-loaf rocks, and in

ام الكلية
lilla
other places by lofty rocks perforated with caves, having
artificial forms, although from their appearance I judged
them to be natural openings to caves within equally natural;
a deep river intervening prevented a closer examination of
them.
The whole of this immense district appears to be agate
or chalcedony, the strata varying beautifully in appearance.
The prevailing kind is of a flinty opaque white; the next
proportion is of a transparent white, deepening to almost
the black appearance of our flint, and in every shade; it
has, like flint, the property of emitting light. Another
large portion varies from yellow to orange, and is sometimes
opaque and sometimes transparent; and again another is
of a pink tinge, shaded into red. In the white, similar
COTTEIUM.
97
gradations lead to a green hue. I have brought away spe-
cimens of each, but I do not exaggerate in saying that the
road and rocks were all glittering with many-coloured agates.
The softer parts look as if burned or calcined, like lime, and
when wet form a kind of mortar. My ride of forty miles
has probably not extended across the whole of this field of
chalcedony. In some instances the stones of this substance
were themselves striped, and in one or two I saw them in
nodules like flints. It cannot be that the whole should be
a bed of chalk, containing flints of various kinds, although
the appearance of the country led me at first to suppose
that this was the case. I do not know that any scien-
tific geologist has traversed this region, but I hope it may
have been visited by Mr. Hamilton during his recent excur-
sion. If I were to indulge my own speculation, I should
ask if heat, which by the scattered lava, hot springs, and
various appearances is shown to have been so active an
agent here, may not have produced the different effects on
the various textures of marble which I have noticed. May
not the most soft or limy parts have been calcined, and by
exposure to moisture decomposed? May not the more sta-
lactitic or aqueous parts have partially withstood the heat,
and by its action have only been somewhat hardened and crys-
tallized? And may not this have been the case also with
the red portions of the marble, which are always the hardest?
I must notice that the strata are all apparently horizontal.
Before entering this singular plain, I likewise observed, after
leaving Onećenoo, that the hard baked cliffs were pierced in
all directions with veins of a crystallized marble, or perhaps
of this same agate-like substance.
We soon entered another plain, much resembling the
one at Oneóenoo; and on the opposite side, again under a
cliff, stood the large town of Kootaya. The plain is tra-
versed by a considerable river, the ancient Thymbrius, which,
like the Gallus, falls into the Sangarius. To enable me to
F
98
PHRYGIA.
judge of the elevation of our present position, I asked the
name of a snow-mountain in the south-west, and found
it was Baba Dagh, the ancient Mount Cadmus, at a dis-
tance, as appears by the map, of about one hundred and ten
miles. There is another pile of the sugar-loaf aiguilles,
which I have before described, not far distant from this
town; I shall therefore remain here in order to visit them,
and also to rest, or rather to vary my occupation.
March 22nd.—I have today closely examined these hills,
and am amazed, but no longer in doubt. The whole of the
white limy or chalky matter forming them, and which is stra-
tified with chalcedony, is a volcanic dust, the lower being
more purely tufa, the higher more mixed with the shattered
fragments of various kinds of broken stone; but far the
greater part is pumice-stone, and all appears massed or
washed together by a rush of waters. The curiously shaped
points are almost wholly of pumice, which may account for
their being less decomposed. I have filled my pockets with
specimens, but the varieties of appearance caused by vol-
canic heat are endless. The peculiarities of this country
are so striking, that I hope, with my collected specimens
and such explanation as I can give, to gain information
respecting it from my geological friends*.
*I am sorry to find that Mr. Hamilton has not seen the line of
country which I have taken. I heard however from my servant, who
has travelled much eastward of this part, that the peculiarities continue
the same; and I find that in a district near Cæsarca, perhaps three
hundred miles to the eastward, Mr. Hamilton thus describes, far better
than I have been able to do, the singular features of a similar country:-
"In the ravine near Tatlar, and in the valleys of Utch-hissar and
Urjub, the tuff has been worn into cones from one hundred and fifty
to three hundred feet high. They are principally detached from the
sides of the valleys, but are connected at the base; and are in some
places so numerous and close together that they resemble at a distance
a grove of lofty cypresses. Where the cones occur on the sides of the
valleys, they exhibit every stage of development, from the first indica-
1
COTYÆIUM.
99
May not one fancy oneself, upon the granite range of
Olympus, Caucasus, or Taurus, as on the side of a cauldron
pouring forth the boiling matter, which as it subsides forms
its scum of agate and froth of pumice? May we not sup-
pose, that after a lapse of ages, volcanic heat bursts forth
again, shattering the crust; that it afterwards slumbers and
coats itself with its agate scum; and again bursting forth,
that at last its own productions become its prison-walls?
For thousands of ages has this region stood deserted; not
even a shell remains as a record of past life, while all the
world around has been clothed with vegetation and peopled
with animals, whose fossil dead have formed mountains. At
length the germs of vegetation, borne on the wings of the
wind, have strewn the barren dust, already softened with
rain, and it has been clothed with trees and verdure. Then
did man, wandering from the southern east, take possession
of this new world, making dwellings for himself in its caves
of soft dry pumice, and feeding on the spontaneous fruits
around him. But I must not waste paper and time in
speculating further on what may have been, but note down
what now is.
These peculiar, pointed rocks are hollowed like a honey-
comb with sepulchral caves, many leading from one to the
other by flights of steps, and all having small recesses scooped
out of the sides, probably for urns containing the ashes of the
dead, and little holes above each for a lamp or small offering:
in some of them slight traces of architectural ornaments re-
main. In these, near Kootaya, the debris has so far buried
the points, that several of the chambers are not above the
tion of a mound near the summit of the slope, to the full-formed cone
at the bottom. In the valley of Urjub some of them are capped by a
mass of hard rock, which projects like the head of a mushroom.' The
production of these cones the author ascribes to the action of runing
or atmospheric water." (Proceedings of the Geological Society, No. 56,
vol. ii.)
F 2
100
PHRYGIA. ·
{
level of the mound at their base. In one of these tombs I
saw above twenty holes or receptacles for the dead bodies,
forming a series of bins or troughs around the cave. These
are now used as mangers, the place being converted into a
stable, holding fifty or sixty beasts. A fire lighted in the cen-
tre has blackened the whole of the flat roof, which still retains
the marks of the pickaxe used in its formation.
March 24th.-Here I was misled by the misnomers of the
map-makers, which have been followed in the books written
by travellers. I asked for Doganlu, or, as the "Useful Know-
ledge" maps term it, Dooanlu, but no such place was known.
With compass, map, and guide-book however we started,
leaving the luggage behind. Our course lay up the valley
towards the south-east, and at about seven miles crossed a
river, and soon after passed the little village of Arrácooe: we
proceeded in the same direction through a country scarcely
varying in any respect from our route since we left Oneóe-
noo, vegetation being as yet stationary; not a flower was to
be seen but the half-starved yellow crocus springing from the
brown grass, and the goats were browsing on the dead leaves
of the stunted oaks, or on the branches of the arbor vitæ and
juniper.
At the distance of twenty miles from Kootaya we entered
a valley, also filled with the singularly formed pointed rocks
of the pumice-earth, and for eight miles passed through a
continued cemetery, the rocks and the ground being perfo-
rated by thousands of caves. Each of those which we entered
had others above and below it, and the road sounded hollow
from the excavations. A sound like this indeed is always
heard in trotting over this kind of soil, but here the effect
is stronger, and must be caused by caves underneath. The
most important group of these pumice-rocks forms a hill,
which has the appearance of a castle standing at the end of
aplain, and that idea is conveyed by the Turkish name, Gur-
jare Kálasy. In one or two of these caves were the remains
EXCURSION FROM COTYEIUM.
101
of architectural ornaments cut in the rock: a few scattered
columns, door-frames and pedestals were seen in the valleys
in the neighbourhood, but they had more the appearance of
having formed parts of the cemeteries than of having been
the remains of ancient towns.
On making inquiries of the peasantry, I learned that the
neighbourhood was full of ruins, which appeared from their
description to be all of tombs: at about two hours' distance
to the east, they said, there were remains, which must be
marble sarcophagi, some broken, but others not yet opened.
We continued our route to Dooaslán, which is called in
the maps Doganlu; this name is also erroneously given by
the writer of the "Modern Traveller" to a place described
as near Kásru Khan, which latter village is twenty-eight
miles distant from this misnamed Doganlu. In the place of
this name he describes some interesting inscriptions on the
rock, which I learned are at the village of Yasilíchia (a name
signifying "Writing on the Rocks"), about eight miles
N.N.W. of Kasru Pasha Khan, near Ghumbat. This error
has occasioned us a ride of fifty-six miles, which with much
difficulty we accomplished upon the same horses, returning
to Kootaya by ten o'clock the same night.
On our return we were obliged to stop to feed the horses
at the little village of Arrácooe, seven miles from Kootaya.
Here we rested for an hour and a half, and had an opportu-
nity of noticing the simple and hospitable customs of the
country. A traveller had just arrived; and as the village,
consisting only of a few huts, was too small to have a gover-
nor, the inhabitants have a house for strangers, which is as
good as any in the place, although without windows: one
end of the room forms the stable, accommodating six horse.
The traveller who had arrived before us was at prayers; but
no circumstance ever disturbs Mahometans at their devo-
tions, when they appear completely abstracted. I delayed
to enter until the traveller rose, when the prayer-mat was
102
PHRYGIA.
hung up and he gave me the usual salaam. I was beginning
to make my meal upon the food we had with us, when in
came nine people, each bearing a dish. A large tray was
raised on the rim of a corn-sieve placed on the ground, in
the centre of which was put a tureen of soup, with pieces of
bread around it. The stranger, my servant, and a person
who seemed to be the head man of the village, sat round the
tray, dipping their wooden spoons or fingers into each dish
as it was placed in succession before them. Of the nine
dishes I observed three were of soups. I asked why this
was, and who was to pay for the repast; and was informed
that it is the custom of the people, strictly enjoined by their
religion, that, as soon as a stranger appears, each peasant
should bring his dish; he himself remaining to partake of it
after the stranger has fed, a sort of pic-nic, of which the
stranger partakes without contributing. The hospitality ex-
tends to everything he requires; his horse is fed, and wood
is brought for his fire, each inhabitant feeling honoured by
offering something. This custom accounts for the frequent
recurrence of the same dish, as no one knows what his neigh-
bour will contribute. Towards a Turkish guest this practice
is perfectly disinterested, but from an European they may
possibly have been led to expect some kind of return, al-
though to offer payment would be an insult. The whole of
the contributors afterwards sit down and eat in another part
of the room.
Instead of waiting till the horses had fed, I had deter-
mined to walk forward to Kootaya, but was deterred by its
being dusk; for having no lanterns, we could not have en-
tered the town without incurring the penalty of the law
which prevails here, as in all Turkish towns, for the prompt
apprehension and imprisonment of any person found in the
streets without a light after dusk.
March 25th. This morning I left Kootáya for Tjaden, in
order to see the ruins of Ezani; and the distance being
!
EXCURSION TO ÆZANI.
103
thirty-six miles, I arranged to return on the following day.
Our route lay west-south-west, and the country through
which we passed presented the same geological features,
except that much of our track the second day lay at an
elevation of probably two thousand feet above the plain of
Kootaya. In several places were strata of slate, some almost
white, and generally too much shivered by heat to be used
for the purposes to which we apply it in Europe. The road
was wild and overgrown with stunted oak and juniper, and
had nothing of interest about it, not a village or house for
the first thirty-two miles. When we arrived at Hágicoóe,
my horse strained his shoulder, and I left him with the guide,
whose horse I took across the plain to Ezani. The sight of
a temple which I passed in the twilight made me long for the
morning, to examine the numerous and comparatively perfect
remains which I saw in every direction.
The modern village consists of a few huts, and is as strag
gling as most other Turkish villages. We were as usual
shown to the stranger's house, which I will describe as a spe-
cimen of this kind of building, and as displaying the manners
of the people, which, as I advance into the interior of the
country, are becoming more simple. My arrival in the place
was generally known before I reached the stranger's house,
which had a wall of loose stones piled round to mark the ex-
tent of the premises, the whole of the stone employed being
fragments of worked marble. The house was of mud mixed
with straw, about seven feet high, with a flat roof of earth
grown over with grass, and a chimney, but no window. We
passed through the stable into the smaller apartment within,
which had walls of bare mud, and a wide open chimney,
admitting scarcely sufficient light to enable me to see the
interior. I was closely followed by three men, each with a
contribution of fire-wood, small fir-trees, which they placed
up the chimney, out of the top of which they protruded; and
these being set on fire, in a few minutes gave to the little
104
PHRYGIA.
room a most cheerful appearance, and showed the floor
matted, and on either side of the fire a carpet, cushion, and
pillows, looking very clean and comfortable. As we had no
bedding or canteen with us, we fared as strangers, and my
cloak was the only additional furniture.
We asked for something to eat, and in a short time ap-
peared, dish by dish, a curious but very good dinner. Three
of the peasants brought bowls of soup; four others dishes of
eggs, some fried with little pieces of meat, others with but-
ter, or simply poached. We had also an excellent pelaf,
turnip-radishes scraped like horseradish, and sweets made.
of honey; and another sweet made from the dried grape,
which is commonly used in Turkey as a substitute for sugar:
it is the raisin stewed until the moisture evaporates, and this
treacly substance remains. The dishes were left but a short
time on the tray, and were taken off by the sons of my hosts
who attended upon us. As soon as the tray was removed,
the carpet was swept, lest any crumbs should have fallen, it
being a religious law never to tread on food. The same mode
of eating was observed by the younger party, who afterwards
sat down to the meal in another part of the room, finishing
each dish in rotation; then the whole party sat down round
the fire, some with their pipes, talking and telling the simplest
tales of commonplace occurrences, the scene of which was of
course always their own village. My inquiries were for coins
and relics, which were hunted for in every child's toy-place or
old wall where they had been noticed. Each person produced
his fancied treasure, which he had preserved because some
Frank had before given money for such things. They know
nothing of the value or uses of our purchases. I heard of a
beautiful Greek statue being sold by them for five shillings,
and two bronze vases for eight shillings; and yet they were
boasting of the large sums such things produced. My ser-
vant bought thirty or forty Greek coins, some of silver,
at an average of three farthings each; and I obtained at
*
EZANT.
105
an equally cheap rate the foot of a statue and some bronze
handles.
I think I have not mentioned that the light generally used
in this part of the country, even in the large town of Koo-
taya and the other towns through which I have passed, is a
chip of the fir-tree. The people make a wound in the tree,
which draws the sap to that part, and the tree is then cut
for fire-wood, reserving this portion filled with turpentine
for candles*. I was surprised to find how long they burned;
during a meal a piece is placed between two stones, and it
burns with a large flame and a black smoke for half an hour.
At Ezani they brought some of this resinous wood to light
our fire; and when any one of our party quitted the room,
he with his large knife (a weapon which all carry) split off
a slip, which served him for a candle. We met people in
the streets at Kootaya carrying them; but the rich use tal-
low-candles, in the excellent and elegant lantern of the East
made of folded paper.
In the morning my breakfast-table was furnished with the
very good brown bread of the country, and with a kymac
and a large supply of milk; for my servant they brought a
* This use of fir-wood, cleft or torn into strips, and especially of the
root of the tree, is well known, and is described in an instructive essay
published by Mr. A. Aikin, in the Transactions of the Society of Arts,
vol. 53, p. 4, "On artificial light from solid substances, and the manu-
facture of candles." Mr. James Yates is of opinion that this method
of obtaining artificial light has prevailed in Asia Minor for nearly 3000
years. Theophrastus speaks of the torch-makers of Mount Ida, and
describes the process as follows. When the pine had attained to its
maturity, the torch-maker cut out a piece from the trunk near its base.
The consequence was an accumulation of turpentine in the vicinity of
the wound. After the lapse of twelve months the portion thus impreg-
nated was cut out, and divided into suitable lengths. This was repeated
for three successive years, and then, as the tree began to decay, the heart
of the trunk was extracted, and the roots were dug up for the same
purpose.
F 3
106
PHRYGIA.
meal of soup, etc., which he with a party of six enjoyed:
this hospitality appears from habit, and perhaps from its
religious obligation, to have become a part of their nature.
The Frank however, when he is so treated, may mostly find
one of the younger of the party, who, whilst holding a stir-
rup or the horse's head at parting, is quite ready to receive
a present, which probably exceeds the value of the articles
consumed.
I had heard of the recent discovery of Æzani, and, having
been told that it was a small Roman town of the time of
Adrian, I felt comparatively little interest about seeing it.
But I now find from its architecture that it appears to be a
purely Greek city, though perhaps afterwards possessed by
the Romans, as there are some few Latin inscriptions. The
architecture is entirely Greek, except the tombs, many of
which appear to be of a more recent period than the public
buildings. The situation of the town is not so striking as
the Greeks generally chose, but it has its gentle hills, one
of which was its Acropolis, crowned with a very highly
finished Ionic temple, No. 6. in the following plan.

7
2
3
شد.
9
9
Eighteen columns, with one side and end of the cella, are
still standing. In the interior of the latter are four long
EZANI.
107
inscriptions, one in well-formed Greek characters, and appa-
rently as old as the temple; of this I took a copy.
There is another inscription in inferior Greek characters,
and there are two in badly cut Roman: on the outside of
the cella also are three or four more; but my time having
been spent in taking sketches and in visiting the other ruins,
I could only copy one of these, a translation of which I
subjoin*. Moreover the weather was so cold, and the snow
falling so fast, that I had difficulty in putting anything on
paper.
At the foot of the Acropolis, which is for the most part
artificially raised upon fine substantial arches of massive
stone similar to the vaults of Nicæa, stand several pillars
of another temple (No. 5. in the plan of the town); and
between these and the river is a single column, now occu-
pied by the nest of a stork, four similar ones having
been just removed and used in the erection of a Gover-
nor's house at Kootάya. On a hill towards the north are
the colossal foundations of another temple (No. 7.), which
from the many splendid fragments of Corinthian columns
and friezes scattered around, I have no doubt was of that
*"Avidius Quintus to the Archons, the Council, and the People of
Ezani sendeth greeting.
"The dispute carried on during many years about the sacred territory
which was anciently dedicated to Jupiter, has by the forethought of the
very Great Emperor been ended. For, after I wrote to him explaining
the whole matter and inquired what was to be done, he prescribed two
things which may best tend to extinguish this difference for you, and to
diminish in the view of a benevolent citizen whatever is difficult to be
performed or discovered in the affair, viz. a principle of equity, in con-
junction with care in the public administration of justice, things which
will put an end to your protracted contention and your spirit of reci-
procal suspicion; as you will see from the epistle which he sent to me,
and a copy of which I have just sent to you. And I have sent direc-
tions to Deespepus, the steward of the Emperor, to select proper sur-
veyors, and to employ them in measuring the said territory."
103
PHRYGIA.
order. Still further to the north-east stands a hill (No. 1.)
covered with tombs, and hollowed out from the side of it is
a beautiful Greek theatre (No. 2.); the seats still remain,
and such a mass of the materials, that the whole might pro-
bably be put together again. A splendid frieze of lions, in
every attitude, with trees in the background, cut in bold
basso-rilievo, appears to have surrounded the building. The
proscenium is similar in form to others that I have seen, and
probably contained equestrian statues like those found at
Herculaneum, as the pedestals are still remaining; the form
was this:

17.
N
3
1
N
2. The doors in the proscenium.
1. The pedestals.
3. A large
opening in the middle of the proscenium, commanding a splendid view
from the theatre along the stadium (No. 3. in the former plan) to the
city, with its Acropolis and many temples.
On either side of the stadium are the ranges of seats for
the spectators, rising one above the other (No. 4.), forming
an avenue for the view from the theatre. These seats are
raised upon fine stone arches, which served as the entrances
to the stadium.
There are still standing three bridges across the river
(No. 8.) which meandered through the city (No. 9.), its
banks having been lined with finely ornamented masonry.
The subjects of the ornaments in the architecture of the
city, which are abundant, are taken from sports and games.
Panthers, lions, dogs, eagles, and Bacchanalian figures are
carved in the friezes. Among these are many fronts of
tombs sculptured as doors, with panels and devices, having
inscriptions.
EZANI.
109

}
1
SHE
G
KALNESSJOE….
en
MA
Chili
→ XA PIN
BEA
EKPEITWIAYKIYANYAAEAQWMNI
Another inscription was cut on the front of a pedestal,
which now stands near a small building serving as the mosque
for the present inhabitants of the village. Upon the top of
this pedestal the muezzin ascends to cry the hour of prayer,
as from the minaret.
I saw no trace of the tombs or architecture of the Chris-
tian age, nor of any walls or fortifications.
walls or fortifications. From the cha-
racter of the architecture I should judge that this had been
a small town devoted to amusement; I could not hear of
any mineral or peculiar waters, or I might have fancied it to
have been a Cheltenham of the ancients. I have seen no
place so little plundered or defaced by the people of after
ages, and much information might be gained here to interest.
the antiquarian.
At one o'clock we set out to return; and being our own
110
PHRYGIA,
>
guides, and in a country without road and with so few marked
features, it was no easy matter to find the way. The tracks
through the woods are innumerable, for the road is changed
at each season as the swamps become passable; many of
them are only the tracks of the woodcutters. Steering by
compass however we took the right course, but the delay in
climbing the hills in this steeple-chase mode of travelling
caused us to be benighted.
Were I disposed to dwell on personal annoyances, I
might here relate our ride of twenty-five miles against a
strong wind from the north-east, and getting thoroughly wet
through with cold rain, which was succeeded by a heavy
fall of snow: darkness came on, and we were compelled for
the last ten miles to trust ourselves entirely to the guidance of
our horses, being unable to distinguish the stones from the
streams, many of which wound down the steep craggy rocks
over which we were riding. In this manner we had to
cross and re-cross thickets and swamps. But it was in our
favour that our horses were approaching home; and at last
we found to our great joy, that an object which in the
darkness we had fancied to be a curiously shaped rock, was
the wall of the citadel of Kootáya. As it was ten o'clock
when I arrived, wet through and miserably cold, I asked
to be allowed to undress and have tea by myself, instead
of in the presence of eight or nine friends of my host; my
request was granted, but one or two of the sons were di-
rected to remain with me, that I might not be lonely. My
servant told me afterwards that the good gentleman was
much hurt at my request, attributing it to my dislike of
the society around him.
There is little to be said of Kootaya. Through its streets
run several rivulets, which carry away the remains of ani-
mals, often a nuisance in Turkish towns: the streets are
wide, and the houses better built than usual.
Today I borrowed the only thermometer in the town (the
COTY.EIUM.
111
one I have with me not being of sufficiently extensive
scale) for the purpose of ascertaining the elevation of this
country. I find it to be great, as I judged from the vege-
tation and climate it would be. The plain of Kootaya is
about six thousand feet above the sea, and the hills we
passed over on our way to Ezani are perhaps two thousand
feet higher.
At Kootaya I have been residing in the house of a pri-
vate gentleman, and have witnessed the manners of his
family. On my firman being presented to the Pasha, he
sent me to this house, the residence of the principal mer-
chant, an Armenian. He was from home at the time, but
I was put in possession of the place of honour, or raised
floor in the principal room, which was painted like the coat
of a harlequin, and surrounded with cushions, the floor
being entirely covered with Turkey carpets and Persian
rugs, which gave the rooms an appearance both of comfort
and wealth. This house may be considered a specimen of
the house of a Turk equally as of a Greek, both being of
the same construction. The family were numerous; three
of the children of my host immediately surrounded me, one
of them a little girl about six years old, very pretty and evi-
dently the pet of the family: two sons afterwards appeared,
who were men thirty years of age. The little girl told me
many things, which as she did not understand English any
more than I Turkish, it was in vain for me to attempt to
answer otherwise than by signs; whereupon she very gravely
left me, and going up to my servant inquired if “ Franky”
had a tongue, for he had never spoke to her, although she
had told him everything. Refreshments were brought in,
and shortly after arrived the master of the house, a fine hand-
some man, who saluted me with great respect, and expressed
his regret that I had dined before he came home, but ar-
ranged that I should take my meal with him the next day.
In the evening he had many visitors, and sent for a Neapo-
112
PHRYGIA.
litan quack doctor in compliment to me, saying that he spoke
European languages. The doctor and the other guests sat
until twelve o'clock: how often I wished them away, that I
might go to bed! I did not know a word that was said, but
had to receive the compliments and farewells of each guest,
the purpose of whose visit was evidently to see the Euro-
pean. My servant, who is at his request called in the firman
my dragoman, made himself very entertaining, and was in
consequence a welcome guest; for the people are delighted
to be talked to, and have not the slightest idea of the
luxury of being alone. They are extremely sociable, and
never read or write, which renders them very dependent upon
each other for amusement. I longed to be alone, even in
the den-like rooms of a khan, that I might write, draw, and
go to bed, but this was impossible whilst every eye was
watching, although with the most refined politeness, my
slightest movement. If I was by chance left alone for five
minutes, an apology was made, or the children sent in that
I might not feel lonely. At breakfast two of the sons
watched every mouthful, until I literally could hardly swal-
low my food; and all this attention proceeded from polite-
ness. I dislike this system of being lodged with a private
family under the authority of a firman; and, having once
availed myself of it, shall return to my former custom of oc-
cupying empty houses or khans, rather than be the forced
and probably unwelcome guest of a stranger, as I am here.
During my toilet I saw that the sons were watching every
act and anticipated every wish, except their absence. I quite
dreaded the tête-à-tête dinner with the head of the house,
neither of us understanding a single word of each other's
language. When the time arrived, the father entered with
his pet child, who was sent to kiss my hand, or put it to
her lips and forehead; the father, respectfully saluting me,
took his seat on the opposite side of the tray, which was
placed on a little stool about six inches high. We each
COTY EIUM.
113
had a plate, knife, fork, and spoon, the three former being
seldom, and then with great difficulty, used by my vis-à-vis.
When the soup, which stood in the middle, was uncovered,
my host, having arranged a napkin over his breast and pulled
up his sleeve, set the example of dipping into the tureen,
and then I did the same, wishing that it was nearer to me.
After each dish he saluted me by passing his hand to his
breast, mouth, and forehead,-indicating the devotion of
heart, lips, and head to my service: the eldest son, who
waited most humbly upon us, watched my movements as
closely as a dog expecting its share of every mouthful. A dish
of brain-fritters succeeded; chickens, birds (which we had
shot), pelaf, and sweets followed. When our formal meal
was over, the son brought a basin, having a false bottom like
an inverted colander, at the top of which lay a piece of soap;

also a water-ewer, and a towel handsomely embroidered
with gold. The basin was first presented to me, and the
son continued to pour water through my hands; my host
made a longer ceremony of it. In the operation of washing
is seen a strong instance of the delicacy of this nation; so
great is their horror of anything unclean, that by the con-
trivance above referred to they avoid even the sight of the
114
PHRYGIA.
soiled water into which among other nations the hands are
repeatedly dipped. In the fonts at the mosques the water
always trickles through the hands from the tap of a cistern,
thus avoiding the inconvenience of the former mode, which
requires the assistance of a servant in washing the hands.
After we had completed our meal, two of the sons, the child,
and my servant ate theirs at the lower part of the room,
attended by numerous servants. The sons alone are privi-
leged to wait upon their father, filling his pipe, presenting
his coffee, and sitting looking at him for hours together;
and they never all leave the room while he remains. A
servant seldom or never enters the apartment unless to
attend to the fire.
The cooking is excellent, and nothing objectionable is met
with in it; no garlic of Italy, sour greens of Germany, or
unknown compounds of France. The kymack is excellent
here, and is fully an inch thick; I see it sold in the bazaars in
plates, as our cream-cheeses are, scantily scattered over with
carraway seeds.
The bread is all good, but the common
bread is peculiar in appearance, being as thin and soft as
a Derbyshire oat-cake: meat, eggs, etc. are brought to table
wrapped up in it, in the manner in which fish is folded in
a napkin; its taste is the same as that of the other bread,
being made of pure wheaten flour. I observe that many
persons here form this bread into a kind of cone, which
serves as a spoon or fork in eating their almost liquid food,
thus keeping their fingers clean.
On Tuesday, March 27th, I left Kootaya for Altuntash.
The road was toward the south, and very like the one to
Æzani, there being not the slightest change in the nature of
the soil or its produce. We passed over various hills, descend-
ing frequently to cross a rapid river, whose course showed
that we were gradually attaining a higher elevation; and at
thirty miles' distance we entered the extensive plain in which
the few huts of Altuntash stand. This perfectly level plain
COTYEIUM TO LAKE ASCANIA.
115
must be at least fifty miles long and twenty wide, and these
extensive flats occur perhaps six thousand feet above the
sea. The spring has not yet arrived; a few men are at work
ploughing, but the country has at present the appearance
of the Downs at Brighton during the winter, there being
not a tree to be seen.
Birds of endless variety, many of them unknown to me in
England, form the only objects of interest to the traveller.
I observed partridges with black heads, wings, and legs,
brownish backs, and white breasts; another bird with a
forked tail (probably the pratincole); a species of plover,
very different from the one common with us, which also is
here seen in myriads; a little bird with white body and
black wings and head*; the red duck, and flocks of geese,
ducks, snipes, and other water-fowl. I found here the com-
mon cuckoo at an earlier season and in colder weather than
it meets on its visits to England. I counted a hundred and
eighty storks fishing or feeding in one small swampy place
not an acre in extent. The land here is used principally
for breeding and grazing cattle, which are to be seen in
herds of many hundreds.
The village of Altuntash consists of a number of large
flat-roofed huts and cattle-sheds, on the tops of which are
placed stacks of provender, in the form of large haycocks.
The people sit and indeed spend much of their time upon
the tops of the buildings, probably on account of the fre-
quent floods and the dampness of the ground, as well as
because from this slight elevation they can command a view
of the whole plain with their herds of cattle. Here I had
the usual present of kymack, in the middle of which was
an excellent honeycomb. My servant went out to shoot
birds, and at breakfast-time brought back six starlings for
dinner, and three rare birds, which he has since skinned for
*
Muscicapa leuconotus, or White-backed Flycatcher.
+ Ciconia alba.
116
PHRYGIA.
stuffing; among them are the spur-winged plover* and a
grey hawk.
March 28th.—The road for thirty-six miles beyond this
village was only varied by being still more dreary; we have
scarcely seen a single tree, and not a flower. The stalks of
last year's opium crops and the brown grass covered the
earth, partly concealing the stratum of opaque agate-stone,
which, on some of the most elevated parts of the hills varied
to veins of a hard, burnt, slaty substance. On entering the
village of Sichanleé all the walls are of grey scoria or lava,
the same as I observed near Léfky and Oneóenoo; here are
also rocks rising with crags, formed by the perpendicular
strata, such as I noticed on quitting the range of Olympus.
I am now on the range of Taurus. My route has hitherto
been directly across this table-land, entirely of volcanic pro-
duction, for above one hundred miles, besides travelling
thirty miles east, and as far west, without seeing its bounds.
Sichanleé is another village consisting only of a few cattle-
sheds, and has its plain of thirty miles in width extending
before it.
March 29th.-Another day's ride of forty-four miles has
been still more dreary, with not a flower and scarcely a
tree in the whole distance. For the first ten miles I passed
a series of hills formed of a variety of loose stones, princi-
pally of grey lava, then a long plain with no vegetation at
present springing, the land being used only for rearing cattle
and growing poppies for opium. The town of Sandookleé
stands at the end of a plain, backed by the high and now
snow-covered mountains of the Taurus range. The branches
of the chain which have crossed our road are of a spurious
kind of granite very similar to that at Pergamus, which
country also I judged to be volcanic, after having seen it
from the range of mountains at the back of the city looking
* Charadrius cristatus, or Crested Plover.
COTYEIUM TO LAKE ASCANIA.
117

towards the north-east. I have mentioned finding at Enáe
many basaltic columns, and that the agates used in the
straw-cutting machines were brought from the neighbour-
hood or from the other side of the mountain, which I know
to be granite; this may probably bring Ida also into the
range bounding to the north-west the immense tract of
volcanic production. I shall be heartily glad to leave it,
and to reach a climate more genial both to vegetable and
animal life.
{
I am now writing in a room in Bállook, the most dreary
of villages. Tomorrow I shall descend, and expect to find
a great difference in the season; a month ago the trees were
bursting into leaf in the west country, and above two months
since at Syra the corn was beginning to show the ear, whilst
here they have only in a few places now begun to plough
and sow.
I am at this moment sitting at dinner, stared at by four-
teen Turks, all complimentary visitors, who have watched
every mouthful I have taken, and are now secretly looking
at and talking of me. I was so much annoyed at Altuntash
the night before last by this custom of the country, and by
the repetition of it by the people again appearing the next
morning early with cream and honey as an excuse for re-
maining to see me dress, that I determined to put a stop to
it, at the risk of offending them, rather than have a number
of men waiting to see me turn out of my bed; and I gave
directions to my servant accordingly. On inquiring after-
wards how he had kept them out, I found that he had repre-
sented me as unwell, and not able to bear the talking; and
thus both I and my servant were left to pursue our occupa-
tions undisturbed. These people are so sociable that no
one is ever alone, and I believe that I must occasionally
represent myself as an invalid, in order to get time for
writing and the other occupations of a traveller.
March 30th, Catchíburloo (meaning Goat-country).—I
118
PHRYGIA.

have travelled another day thirty-six miles, and am still in
the mountains, having scarcely seen a tree the whole way;
the road lay over a series of gentle hills and long valleys
bounded on either side by high mountains, covered with
snow, their summits of marble and of a porous weather-
beaten limestone, stratified and cavernous. The long plain
of Dumbári-ovasy (the Buffalo-plain) has several villages
along its line, placed on the declivity of its bounding hills,
and all known by the general name of Dumbári; we passed
through one, and I inquired for ruins, but none were to be
heard of. I rode to the burial-ground, as the best index of
the age of the neighbouring places, but no "old stones"
were to be found there. I noticed a number of newly-
formed graves, two then open ready for the dead; and
on turning round, saw assembled a multitude of people
advancing towards me; as they approached the graves they
paused to pray, setting down two biers. They probably
formed the whole population of the place, perhaps with the
addition of friends from the neighbouring villages. I soon
learned that the plague had been some time in the valley,
and that the persons whose bodies were now brought for
burial had died that morning. Hearing this I did not cross
over to another village opposite, although I understand
several relics of an ancient town exist there. The next
burial-ground we passed had also a long row of newly-
formed graves. The plague had visited Sandlookeé, the
town we had passed at the head of the valley two months
before; finding however, on my approach to this place (Cat-
chíburloo), that no case had occurred here for a month, I
have not thought it necessary to pitch my tent, allowing
my servant, who is rather an alarmist, to ride forward and
inquire into the state of the village.
Without discussing the causes of the disease, I will
notice the seasons and situations in which I meet with it.
The country I have passed is certainly from five to six thou-
LAKE ASCANIA.
119

sand feet above the sea, the first part of the road being by
no means damp or swampy. The whole country is very
thinly inhabited, and has at this season no vegetation, for
the winter is not yet over; the ground each morning is
covered with white frost, and a sharp easterly wind prevails.
I have seen no part of Asia Minor more cleanly, or where
the streets are freer from animal remains. The earth is a
porous linestone, and the water seems excellent every-
where. I have remarked the bread for its peculiar goodness;
it is made wholly of wheaten flour; the pelaf is here, as in
other parts, the general food. On entering the first village,
where I found the plague raging, I noticed to my servant.
that I thought it unlikely we should find ruins there, for the
houses appeared built in the fields, the streets had spaces.
of grass, and each house was detached; the whole village
standing on the gentle slope of the hill, with no rivers or
water in sight.
While waiting for horses this morning, I climbed up the
rock in the town to see the lake anciently called Ascania,
and its scenery, which is very beautiful. Whilst contem-
plating the view, looking down upon the village just under
me, I saw twenty or thirty people assembled there. From
a house near to the one I had occupied, they brought out
a body, and carried it to the grave. They buried it without
coffin, and I observed the body bend when lowered into the
grave; this might have been caused by the washing in warm
water which took place at the door of the house. The man
had died in the night, and I was not sorry to see our
horses loading and at the door, where I found my servant
in great alarm, and anxious to escape from the town.
1
120
CHAPTER VI.
PISIDIA.
JOURNEY TO SPARTA.-RECEPTION OF A GOVERNOR AT HIS PROVINCE.
-HONESTY OF THE PEOPLE. SINGULAR PASS OF THE MOUNTAINS.
—ALAYSOÓN.-RUINS OF SAGALASSUS.—NATURAL HISTORY.
My maps are very incorrect as to the direction of the lake
and town of Boodoór. I noticed the surrounding localities
on my way to Sparta, which lay to the south-east, over a
range of limestone mountains variously acted upon by vol-
canic heat; some parts cracked into small atoms, others split
into slabs like flagstones, having a wavy surface, as if caused
by water, similar to the stones in the Weald of Sussex:
a great portion is broken into flakes resembling slaked
lime, and there are many hills of sand; washed stones
also of all kinds, with much volcanic production, are scat-
tered around. The valley of Sparta is beautiful compared
with the country through which I have lately passed; the
season here is a degree forwarder, and the almond-trees are
just coming into bloom; at Smyrna, and on the western
coast, two months since they were nearly out of blossom.
No other vegetation is yet bursting, but the walnuts and
magnificent planes must be beautiful in their season. I have
been much annoyed by travelling in advance of a Governor
of this district, whose Tartar or courier has just preceded
me, securing thirty-four horses; and until they were sup-
ROAD TO SAGALASSUS.
121
plied I could not have mine; but after a few hours' delay I
have always obtained them. On entering this valley we
found thirty or forty of the principal inhabitants waiting
the arrival of their new Governor, to escort him across the
plain, about three miles, to the town. Among the group of
full-dressed Turks sitting on the ground, with their gaily-
caparisoned horses feeding by their sides, were about a
hundred young lambs and kids, which on the first ap-
pearance of the cavalcade were to be slaughtered, and
presented to the Governor, each by its owner, with a view
to secure the favour of the new despot.
The town of Sparta is better built than any I have before
seen in this country, perhaps owing to the use of stone in
the construction of the houses; but it is the stone as washed
down the hills, and not hewn; and an inner plastering of
mud is added to fill up the crevices. Many of the houses
have large gardens filled with trees, which give the town the
appearance of a wood. Streams of water run through most
of the streets, and the town being on the declivity of the
mountain, there are many hills erected upon them. I
lodged about a mile up one of these rivers, at the house of
the owner of a mill, a man of considerable property, quite a
character; having been a slave some years in Moscow, he
fancied he had seen all Europe, and that England and
France were parts of Russia; indeed I find that this people
generally know no distinction between the various Euro-
pean nations.
Few traces of antiquity are found here: from a rich
Corinthian cornice I copied an inscription, which was evi-
dently of a later date than the work of the frieze.
I had great difficulty in obtaining horses, owing to a
Pasha passing through Sparta to Adalia; but after a delay
of three hours, by half-past nine o'clock I was on my way
to Alaysoón. I notice the following incidents as illustra
ting the character of the people. About three miles from the
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122
PISIDIA.
town my servant found that his greatcoat had fallen from
his horse; riding back for two miles, he saw a poor man
bringing wood and charcoal from the hills upon asses. On
asking him if he had seen the coat, he said that he had
found it, and had taken it to a water-mill on the roadside,
having shown it to all the persons he met, that they might
assist in finding its owner; on offering him money, he re-
fused it, saying with great simplicity that the coat was not
his, and that it was quite safe with the miller. My servant
then rode to the house of the miller, who immediately gave.
it up, he also refusing to receive any reward, and saying
that he should have hung it up at the door, had he not been
about to go down to the town. The honesty perhaps may
not be surprising, but the refusal of money is certainly a
trait of character which has not been assigned to the Turks.
The road to Alaysoón was most singular. For eight or
nine miles it lay up the bed of the river, on each side of
which the mountains rose abruptly. The ravine was at first
monotonous, but afterwards assumed a bold and highly
interesting character: the rocks are generally of marble, and
some of common limestone, with veins of marble running
through them in all directions; the whole of the mountains
are stratified, and thrown about in the wildest manner.
But
the most singular features in this district are the mountains
of volcanic dust, which I saw at ten miles' distance, looking
as if they were smoking; this appearance being caused by
the sand, which with every little wind is blown into clouds,
and carried into the air and along the valleys. Out of these
hills rise jagged points of marble rocks, each of which forms
a nucleus of the drifting sand. This dust occasionally
almost blinded us; and I observe that the people ride with
their faces covered with handkerchiefs, or wait till the cloud
of dust has passed. The whole of this light sand or dust is
tufa, the dust of the pumice-stone, and a volcanic produc-
tion;
the decomposed lime has in many parts mixed with
ROAD TO SAGALASSUS.
123
this tufa, and formed hills of Roman cement: perhaps na-
ture first suggested this invention to the Romans, and we
have learned it from their works. Pieces of pumice-stone
were united by this cement, so as to form cliffs and ca-
vernous rocks some hundred feet in height. It seemed to
me that there was here every variety of volcanic substance,
from the white and light pumice-stone to the metalliferous
black basalt. The material of which these sand-hills are
composed is precisely the same as that in which the city of
Pompeii was buried. What may not here lie beneath its
drifts! Many columns and worked stones are rolled into
the river which runs at the base of these hills; and there
are several caves cut with squared openings, only half-buried
by the sand.
Though not a stranger to high mountain-passes, I have
never experienced such cutting cold nor so strong a wind as
in this pass of the Taurus range; neither I nor any of my
men could ride, and we were obliged occasionally to lie
down until the gusts had ceased: the very rocks of marble
seemed cut by it, for they stood in shivered points, through
which the wind hissed fiercely. We passed much snow, and
were visited by a storm of small pieces of ice, of broken
forms and transparent; this was succeeded by beating rain
and snow, as we descended towards the valley of Alaysoón,
where in two hours we arrived thoroughly drenched. How-
ever, hearing of some ruins within a few miles, I risked the
repetition of the storm, and walked about three miles again
up the mountain, through a craggy wilderness, into which I
feared the peasant took me only to see some tombs cut in
the rocks, as the situation appeared too high and dreary for
the living of any age. Tombs we did pass, and then climbed
up steep hills which were covered with broken tiles, crockery
of terra-cotta, lamps, jugs, pieces of glass, etc., but none of
sufficient value to be worth picking up. At length I saw
many squared stones which had been rolled down the hills,
G 2
124
PISIDIA.
and above me on all the overhanging rocks were the founda-
tions of walls. What was my surprise to find, on ascending,
the extensive remains of a superb city, containing seven or
eight temples, and three other long buildings, ornamented
with cornices and columns, and with rows of pedestals on
either side! I know not what these buildings may have
been, but from their forming long avenues I imagine they
were agoras.
On the side of a higher hill is one of the most beautiful
and perfect theatres I ever saw or heard of; the seats and
the greater part of the proscenium remain; the walls of the
front have partly fallen, but the splendid cornices and
statuary are but little broken. I walked almost round, in
the arched lobby, entering as the people did above two
thousand years ago. Eight or nine venerable walnut-trees
have done some damage, by heaving up the seats. From its
peculiar situation I judge that this theatre was entered on
one side, where appeared three or four vomitories together.
The whole of the city, with its costly tombs and its inscrip-
tions, both cut in the rocks and on the sarcophagi, is ancient
Greek, without a vestige of Roman or Christian character.
The helmet, shield, and lance, together with masks and
lions' heads, varied the ornaments of the richly-worked Co-
rinthian cornice. I observed in the agoras many of the
pedestals were six-sided. The whole town was a pile of
superb public buildings, arranged in excellent taste, both
for seeing and being seen; the ruins are, for so elevated a
spot, extensive, and in their mountainous situation are
wildly grand. The theatre faced the south. The town has
no trace of walls, but its tombs are to be seen carved
in the rocks for miles around, with much architectural
ornament. This must, I suppose, be the situation assigned
to the ancient Sagalassus; it is now called by the Turks
Boodroóm.
My guide kept earnestly begging that I would point out
SAGALASSUS.
125
the stones in which he should find gold, thinking that I
knew from my books where it was to be met with. The
people had spent much time and trouble in cutting pedestals
in pieces, imagining from their having inscriptions that they
contained treasure. They have in several instances been
fortunate, and I saw a split stone which from its form had
probably been a kind of altar; into this they had cut, and,
concealed in a hollow in the centre, they had found, they
said, much gold money. There are in the village below
some traces of foundations, and many squared stones and
handsome cornices, and several fluted columns lie about the
fields.
In the burial-grounds I saw some Christian columns; and
a large handsome trough in the town was also of the same
date, having two angels carved in the front. A number of
Byzantine coins have also been found in the town. How
much it is to be regretted that the introduction of a divine
religion should have unnecessarily put to flight all the
divinity of art! The language of Demetrius of Ephesus
was prophetic. In architecture and in sculpture the Cross
is a brand always attended by deformity in proportion, and
total want of simplicity in ornament.
April 1st.—We left the valley of Alaysoón in a snow-
storm, which had covered the ground nearly a foot deep;
and, after mounting a hill toward the south, descended into
another valley, in which no snow had fallen, and where the
wheat was six inches high, while in the country through
which we had passed it had not even been sown. The
mountains were also beginning to be clothed with trees,
but no bursting leaves yet bespoke a spring in this still
elevated region. Another valley succeeded, and the coun-
try became far more picturesque than any that we had
passed through for many weeks. The village of Sádecooe
lay on our right. I here first saw the common black
crows of Europe; also many red ducks, and a white
126
PISIDIA.
vulture* with black wing-feathers: my servant shot one
of the small black and white birds which we had seen
frequently in this mountain region, the white-backed fly-
catcher.
* Neophron Percnopterus, or Egyptian Vulture.
127
CHAPTER VII.
PAMPHYLIA.
ARRIVAL AT BOOJAK.-VISIT TO
VISIT TO THE RUINS OF A SPLENDID CITY,
PROBABLY SELGE.-BEERMARGY.-DESCENT OF THE TAURUS RANGE.—
PLAINS OF PAMPHYLIA.-ADALIA.—VISIT TO THE PASHA.-BOTANY.—
EXCURSION TO ANCIENT CITIES, PROBABLY PERGE, ISIONDA, PED-
NELISSUS, SYLLIUM, SIDE, AND ASPENDUS.-RETURN TO ADALIA.-
DOMESTIC MANNERS OF A GREEK FAMILY.-DEPARTURE.
AFTER travelling twenty-four miles to the south-east we
arrived at the village of Booják. Leaving here my baggage,
I started with a guide to visit some extensive ruins, which I
heard lay about ten miles toward the north-east. The road
was highly picturesque, traversing pine-forests, and ascend-
ing the whole way, commanded views of various chains of
mountains and their cultivated valleys. After passing a
rocky plain we entered a wood or wilderness of shrubs, and
suddenly came to a cliff of the greatest perpendicular height
that I had ever looked over; no description can give an
idea of the place. I was at the end of a ridge of mountains
of white marble, which terminate abruptly in a deep and
rich valley, with villages, of which Dávre appeared the
largest, and having only one side accessible, the other three
rising perpendicularly, perhaps a thousand feet.
Upon this promontory stood one of the finest cities that
probably ever existed, now presenting magnificent wrecks of
grandeur. I rode for at least three miles through a part of
128
PAMPHYLIA.
1
the city which was one pile of temples, theatres, and build-
ings, vying with each other in splendour; the elevated site
for such a city is quite unaccountable to me. The material
of these ruins, like those near Alaysoón, had suffered much
from exposure to the elements, being grey with a lichen
which has eaten into the marble, and entirely destroyed the
surface and inscriptions; but the scale, the simple grandeur,
and the uniform beauty of style bespoke its date to be the
early Greek. The sculptured cornices frequently contain
groups of figures fighting, wearing helmets and body-armour,
with shields and long spears; from the ill-proportioned
figures and general appearance, they must rank in date with
the Ægina marbles now at Munich. The ruins are so
thickly strewn that little cultivation is practicable, but in
the areas of theatres, cellas of temples, and any space
where a plough can be used, the wheat is springing up.
The general style of the temples is Corinthian, but not
so florid as in less ancient towns. The tombs are scattered
for a mile from the town, and are of many kinds, some
cut in chambers in the face of the rock, others sarcophagi
of the heaviest form; they have had inscriptions, and the
ornaments are almost all martial; several seats remain
amongst the tombs. I can scarcely guess the number of
temples or columned buildings in the town, but I certainly
traced fifty or sixty; and in places where there were no
remains above the surface I frequently saw vast arched
vaults, similar to those forming the foundations of great
public buildings. Although apparently unnecessary for
defence, the town has had strong walls, partly built with
large stones in the Cyclopean mode. There is no trace
of any successors to the earliest occupants. I never con-
ceived so high an idea of the works of the ancients as
from my visit to this place, standing as it does in a situa-
tion, as it were, above the world.
It is difficult to state the exact situation of the town by
་
SELGE.
129
reference to the present imperfect map. A snowy moun-
tain, called by the Turks Dourraz, is due north. Castledar
lies west-south-west, Sparta is towards the north-west.
On leaving Booják we returned to the road at the other
end of the valley, and passed southward through an open-
ing in the mountains into another valley, and afterwards
a third, each somewhat forwarder in vegetation than the
one preceding it. We were assailed by children, who ran
down from the tents in the mountain, bringing bunches of
flowers of an unsightly kind, but with so sweet a scent,
resembling that of a honeycomb, that they are much es-
teemed by the Turks: they are a species of the grape, or
musk, hyacinth*.
At the end of twenty-four miles we arrived at Beérmargy,
where we changed horses, having as usual a dinner pre-
sented by the postmaster, consisting of soup, pelaf, yohoot
and sweets, while the horses were loading, which is a rather
tardy operation. From this place to Adalia I found there
were four ways; I took one which was circuitous, hearing
that it led by some ruins, and a picturesque pass through
the mountains. The village which would have been our
halting-place was at this season deserted, and the inhabit-
ants were encamped some miles below: being independent
with my tent, I determined to take this route and join
their camp. Here, as well as upon the highest of the
mountains near Sparta, I observed the tortoise pursuing its
heavy course across the road; in this district it is of a
larger size than those at Troy.
After crossing the valley for perhaps four miles, we
suddenly entered a pass between the mountains, which
diminished in width, until cliffs almost perpendicular in-
closed us on either side. The descent became so abrupt
that we were compelled to dismount and walk for two
* Muscari moschatum.
G 3
130
PAMPHYLIA.
hours, during which time we continued rapidly descending
an ancient paved road, formed principally of the native
marble rock, but which had been perfected with large
stones at a very remote age: the deep ruts of chariot-
wheels were apparent in many places. The road is much
worn by time; and the people of a later age, diverging
from the track, have formed a road with stones very in-
ferior both in size and arrangement.
About half an hour before I reached the plain at the foot
of this mountain, a view burst upon me through the cliffs,
so far exceeding the usual beauty of nature as to seem like
the work of magic. I looked down from the rocky steps of
the throne of winter, upon the rich and verdant plain of
summer, with the blue sea in the distance, and on either
side, like outstretched arms, ranges of mountains bounding
the bay of Pamphylia. This splendid view passed like a
dream; for the continual turns in the road, and the increas-
ing richness of the woods and vegetation, soon limited my
view to a mere foreground. Nor was this without its in-
terest; on each projecting rock stood an ancient sarcophagus,
and the trees half concealed the lids and broken sculpture
of innumerable tombs. A colossal recumbent lion without
a head, probably having formed the top of some monument,
and seats supported by the claws of lions, were amongst the
ruins; in one or two places were small remains of Cyclopean
walls, perhaps only foundations to perfect the natural rocks,
so as to support the tombs above.
Several columns of the Corinthian order were scattered
about; but even from these I was unable to ascertain the
exact site of the city, which could not however have
been far distant from this spot. I should have searched
further, had I not anticipated finding the town in the
ruins below me, to which I was directed by my guide;
but on my arrival I found that these were of little interest,
being slightly-built Venetian castles, with their peculiar
SELGE TO ADALIA.
131
three-pointed battlements; these are at the entrance to the
pass, and are similar to many others found here, which for-
merly protected each of the entrances to the interior through
this range of mountains. As the evening closed in, we saw
in the horizon a tent under a tree, and by the flickering
of lights in the neighbourhood and barking of dogs, we
knew that we approached an encampment of the Yourooks,
who, with the Turcomans, form the pastoral inhabitants of
this country.
The larger tent was evidently that of the Governor of the
village, who with his people moves with the seasons. I rode
up, and having asked his protection, pitched my tent in front
of his. Cream, bread, water, and fuel were supplied to us;
and here, as everywhere else, the greatest attention and
hospitality were shown: I was soon surrounded with all I
needed, and now, for the first time, am swinging in my ham-
mock.
To describe the next scene I should need the talent of
Scott. Looking out from my tent at ten o'clock everything
was still and calm. The moon and stars had supplied their
cool light, the snow-topped mountains glittered in contrast
with the dark blue sky, and the horizon was only broken by
the grey shrubs and the tents of the sleeping peasants.
Around me lay my five horses tethered, and carefully covered
with tattered but gay-coloured clothing; immediately before
me was a group of seven Turks in full costume, each having
a knife and large ornamented pistols in his belt, sitting
round a blazing fire, on which my servant was preparing my
supper, discoursing at the same time to his wondering and
attentive hearers. They were a most picturesque party.
Beyond them was the open, rude, black, goats'-hair tent of
the chief, supported by three poles, and built up on each side
with loose stones; upon the pole in front were hung his
long gun and lance, or pole, and by them stood a Turk as
guard. Within, upon carpets and cushions, lay the weather-
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PAMPHYLIA.
beaten chief and an attendant; between them was a pan of
burning charcoal, the faint light of which shone on the
wreathing smoke from their pipes as it curled beneath the
black roof of the tent. The scanty service of a Turkish
meal glittered on the ground, indicating the finished repast;
the contrasted light, the costume, and the calm of the whole
scene, were more impressive than any description can repre-
sent. Notwithstanding its attractions however, my supper
being announced, and the evening air cool, I soon hastened
to my warm tent, and slept until four or five o'clock, when
a high cold wind from the mountain reminded me of the ad-
vantage of more solid walls than those of canvas. I was glad
to put on my warm dress, and to be again jogging on horse-
back. The plain, which from above appeared so rich, I now
found to be uncultivated, a little herbage for a few miles
round the encampment being the only portion suited even
for depasturing the cattle.
I here witnessed the hunting of a stray ox.
The man
pursuing, mounted on a swift horse, had a long pole with a
noose of cord at the end: after a chase of nearly two miles
he succeeded in throwing the noose over the head of the
breathless beast, which fell panting on the ground; the
horse also seemed completely exhausted by the chase.
The bare marble rocks soon appeared on the surface, and
for the next thirty miles, extending to Adalia, not an acre
of land is cultivated, the whole being bare rock and stone,
scarcely concealed by the small shrubs and brushwood.
Goats and camels alone find food, and they are seen brows-
ing over the whole distance. About midway on the journey
the ground had a hollow sound, and I observed that it was
occasionally composed of masses of lime incrusting reeds,
sticks, and vegetable matter; at first this appeared to be
only in partial lines, the native marble predominating, but
the proportion increased until the whole track was of
this composition. The vegetation now became varied, luxu-
PLAINS OF PAMPHYLIA.
133
mant flowers enlivened the ground, and we had the season
restored to us which we left six weeks ago in the west.
Rising almost imperceptibly, we were soon on the edge of
an abrupt cliff of from two to three hundred feet high, which
was entirely formed of the deposit upon, or petrifaction of,
vegetable matter, and where the fir and oak flourished luxu-
riantly. Descending by a zigzag route to our former level,
we found ourselves again upon the marble, and passing over
a plain. The climate was delightful, but there was no soil
to receive its bounties. About fifteen miles before we ar-
rived at Adalia (where I now am) I saw a considerable river
on our right hand, which we have not yet passed. The maps
are very imperfect as to the rivers and towns here; with
regard to roads we cannot expect any accurate information,
when, as I said before, the track varies with the state of the
weather. In a country where there are no roads there are
always many ways; on this account a guide is indispensable,
even for a short journey.
April 3rd.—Adalia, which is called by the Turks Atália,
I prefer to any Turkish town that I have yet visited; every
house has its garden, and consequently the town has the
appearance of a wood,-and of what? orange, lemon, fig,
vine, and mulberry, all cultivated with the artificial care of
a town garden, and now in fresh spring beauty. I see in
the bazaar small green almonds, and among the fruit-trees
barley is coming into ear: this was the case two months ago
at Syra, which shows how greatly climate is influenced by
local causes.
My first visit was to the Governor, and greatly to my an-
noyance he sent my servant (who had as usual presented the
firman to ask a lodging) to request me to walk up and take
coffee with him, until a house was appointed for me. As I
could not avoid the interview, I was compelled to present
myself in my travelling dress, amidst all the servile atten-
dants upon this eastern court, and I alone (in my dirty
134
PAMPHYLIA.
boots) was admitted to the raised floor. An European chair
was placed for me, and I was welcomed with pipe and coffee:
the first I ventured to refuse; the latter, fearing to give
offence, I reluctantly tasted. The servant, on approaching
to take the coffee-cup from me, when at arm's length, placed
over it a beautifully embroidered napkin about six inches.
square, worked with various colours mixed with gold; this
was done to avoid the sight of any dregs that might be
left in the cup,-one of the many customs which I have
noticed amongst this people indicating excessive delicacy
of manners. All who approached the Governor kissed the
ground at his feet, and saluted me in the eastern form. I
counted the minutes during which I thus sat to be gazed at.
But soon a person appeared, to accompany me, and I was
conducted to a perfect palace, belonging to a Greek, whose
riches far exceeded those of the Pasha, and in which I have
possession of a very large room, surrounded with ottomans
and cushions placed against the walls. Here luxuries are
indulged in to a great extent, though the arts have not kept
pace with them; while in our country luxuries tardily follow
the advances of art. The painting on the walls of my room
is a most ludicrous attempt at landscape and figures.
I had not been long in my apartment before I was waited
upon by two messengers from the Pasha, his physician and
a friend, who sat nearly two hours talking Italian; they
particularly requested that the Pasha might have my card,
and that I would call upon him during my stay. I pleaded
as an excuse that I had no proper dress; but it would not
avail, as the Pasha was, they said, most anxious to pay atten-
tion to Europeans: he had begged them to inquire if I had
every comfort provided for me, adding, that if I had not, he
desired I should come to his palace. In the evening I re-
ceived a note from the Pasha, written in Italian, requesting
an audience, and naming three o'clock (Turkish time-mean-
ing nine o'clock,) the following morning for the interview.
ADALIA.
135
I would have sacrificed much to have avoided the ceremony
of this visit, but I could not; so I hastily gave a verbal
answer, saying that I would send a reply in the morning,
thinking it an invitation to a three o'clock dinner.
April 4th.-By eight o'clock in the morning (two o'clock,
Turkish time) the Doctor called again, to know if I intended
to accept the invitation of the Pasha, and offering from him
the use of his kitchen, as he feared I might not like the food
of the country. At nine o'clock I went with Demetrius,
who acted as my interpreter, and was shown into the private
house of the Pasha, who was prepared to receive me. I spent
two hours with him in a very interesting manner. He is
handsome, and much such a moving spirit as the Sultan.
His name is Nedgib Pasha. It fortunately happened that
we had many subjects of interest in common, owing to my
having travelled at the same time with him through the
same line of country, for it was his cavalcade that had
required the supply of horses which had inconvenienced
me on my journey. He seemed tolerably well acquainted
with the points of interest in the country as to an-
tiquities. I spoke of the great hospitality I had re-
ceived, and expressed my wish that, as the Turks imitated
our costume, we should copy their kindness to strangers.
This pleased him, and he was evidently as proud of the Eu-
ropean character of his own costume and those around him,
as he was gratified by the compliment to his country. We
then spoke of the natural history of the country, and he
told me of the volcanic or burning mountain near Adalia.
On my mentioning how much I had been interested by the
peculiarities of the mountains, he became all animation, and
asked if I understood minerals, and if I thought the country
I had seen contained any; my slight geological knowledge
served me so well in replying to this inquiry, that the people
about him thought me a prophet. I told him that there
could be no coal in the country through which I had passed,
136
PAMPHYLIA.
and that if found anywhere it would be above the marble
mountains, perhaps on those towards the north-west, and not
in pits as with us. This pleased the Pasha, who gave a nod
to one of his attendants, and immediately servants appeared
bearing baskets, pans, a candle and stove, and one a lump of
coal, which I fortunately recognised as English. The Pasha
said that it was so, and that he had brought it with him
from Constantinople. In each of the baskets was a piece
of slaty stone-coal, which he ordered to be put upon a fire,
and also burnt in a candle, that I might examine it; and this
he said was found high in the mountains above the marble,
and just in the direction which I had suggested. Then a
piece of pyrites was shown me as a supposed treasure; I
told him that this substance was with us considered almost
valueless, although used in some chemical manufactures, but
that he would probably find much more and perhaps better
coal in the same neighbourhood. Next was handed to me
a large metal vase containing some sand of decomposed
granite. I picked out the little crystallized quartz, but he
directed my attention to the shining particles of mica. I
told him whence he had obtained the granite, and what it
was, and suggested that the discovery of the coal would be
the most valuable; he said they had so much wood that coal
would not be required by them, but that he was extremely
anxious to find iron or copper, and was sure the country
contained both. I said that the metallic veins were so
capricious that I could not venture an opinion, but that I
hoped his researches might prove as successful as his great
undertaking of roads through the country, which I under-
stood he proposed to carry to Constantinople. He then
offered me a guard or servants to travel with me, who would
procure me more comforts, and offered me introductions to
other Pashas; but I was not about to visit the countries
they governed. He then insisted upon my using his stable,
in which I should find good horses, and asked my servant
ADALIA.
137
if it was true that I had all I desired at the house where
I was, which was his banker's, adding, "Now do not tell
me a lie, for if you have not what you require, I will
send dinners and sweets from my own table.”
On my
thanking him, he expressed his hope that I would call upon
him again, and, instead of staying two days, would remain
a month, assuring me that he would make me comfortable.
He rose from his seat and accompanied me towards the door
when I came away, which is quite contrary to eastern eti-
quette, and Demetrius says he never saw it done before by
a Pasha.
I withdrew and rambled home, where I had not long
arrived before the Doctor was sent to offer to be my cice-
rone in the town, which I declined; preferring to remain at
home all day, resting and writing, and spending some time
on a high stage erected at the top of the house, from which
there is a splendid view. With my map I can study the
whole line of coast of the bay. The town around me is
seen inclosed within a double wall; but even here, in the
centre, it has almost the appearance of houses in pleasure-
grounds rather than of a town; perhaps the greater part is
built without the walls. Scarcely a ship rides in the ancient
harbour, a few boats occupying a port which has in early
ages contained its fleet; the ruined towers still stand in this
clearest of water.
A curious effect is produced by strong springs of fresh
water rising in the sea at the distance of a few yards from
the shore, causing an appearance like that seen on mixing
syrup or spirit with water; the sea being so clear that the
bursting of the fresh water from among the stones at the
bottom, although at a great depth, is distinctly visible*.
I have already mentioned that the country at the back of
* I am not aware, says Mr. Yates, that any other traveller has
noticed the "curious effect" here described, which must be attributed
to the difference in the refraction of light in passing through fresh and
138
PAMPHYLIA.
Adalia is composed for thirty or forty miles of a mass of in-
crusted or petrified vegetable matter, lying embosomed, as
it were, in the side of the high range of marble mountains,
which must originally have formed the coast of this country.
As the streams, and indeed large rivers, which flow from the
mountains enter the country formed of this porous mass,
they almost wholly disappear beneath it; a few little streams
only are kept on the surface by artificial means, for the pur-
pose of supplying aqueducts and mills, and being carried
along the plain fall over the cliffs into the sea. One of these
is supposed to have been the ancient Cataractus. The
course of the rivers beneath these deposited plains is con-
tinued to their termination at a short distance out at sea,
where the waters of the rivers rise abundantly all along
salt water. The frequency of submarine freshwater springs on the
northern coast of the Mediterranean Sea is very remarkable. I have
met with the following instances in addition to that here recorded.
1. The copious spring in the gulf of La Spezia is well known. It
often rises to a considerable height above the surface of the salt water.
In this case also the rock is a recent calcareous tufa or breccia.
2. In the gulf of Taranto. "At the distance of two hundred yards
from the mouth of the Galesus, two powerful freshwater springs, called
occhi, rise in the sea, and bubble up to its surface with sufficient strength
to drive away any boat that floats over them. I was told that they may
be seen in calm weather gushing from two black caverns at the bottom
of the water.” (The Hon. Keppel Craven's Tour in Naples, p. 181.)
3. The inhabitants of the ancient Aradus (the Arvad of the Old
Testament) obtained water in case of a siege by the following method.
Their city was crowded together upon an island situated at a short dis-
tance from the northern extremity of the coast of Phoenice. In the
strait they discovered a spring of clear water rising from the rock of
limestone. Their expedient was to go to the spot in a boat with a leaden
bell-shaped instrument having a small hole at the top, round which was
fastened a leathern pipe. They let down the instrument upon the
spring. At first sea-water was forced up; but after a little while they
obtained the spring-water in whatever quantity they desired. (Strabo,
lib. xvi. cap. 2. § 13.)
ADALIA.
139
the coast, sometimes at the distance of a quarter of a mile
from the shore. The bottom of the sea beyond this deposit
is of marble rock, the foundation of the splendid range of
the Taurus.
Friday, April 6th.—I am detained here by the illness of
my servant, and am enjoying a rest in this delightful cli-
mate. I find the town is small, but clean, and more agree-
able as a residence than any that I have before seen in
this country. The town stands on a cliff rising sixty or
eighty feet above the sea, which has no beach, but breaks
against the overhanging rocks; these are apparently formed
of, or incrusted by, a stalactitic deposit of lime. I have
returned from a walk laden with flowers, and I now inflict
upon myself the penalty of ignorance by drawing those with
which I am unacquainted: it is a severe one, for their
varieties are numerous, many of them being hothouse plants
in England*. Among them is a shrub in growth and leaf
exactly like the heath, and standing six or eight feet high,
but with the flower of the cistust. A common shrub here
is a very pretty tree with a blossom resembling the lemon
treet. There is a great variety of the iris, the most common
being a luxuriant white one, generally with three very
sweet-scented flowers on one stalk; there are also the
orchis, and beautiful varieties of the chickweed, and of the
garlic, whose silvery flower contrasts elegantly with the
green around. The plants found in this country must be
indigenous, for none are cultivated. I have not seen
gardens, except in this town, during my whole journey;
and here they are only for the orange, fig, and vine, which
are cultivated more for the shade they afford to the seats
* The Anagallis cærulea, Gladiolus communis, Pyrethrum, Astragalus,
Salvia Horminum, Fumaria capreolata, Muscari comosum, Scilla mari-
tima, Muscari botryoides, and Ornithogalum umbellatum.
+ Cistus Fumana.
Styrax officinale, the Gum Storax.
140
PAMPHYLIA.
beneath them than for their beauty or fruit. The little land
which is in cultivation immediately around the town seems
at this season to teem with produce. I have seen here two
palm-trees, but they were pointed out to me as being un-
common. I have given half a farthing for a sugar-cane
which was for sale in the market, with other vegetables
grown in the immediate neighbourhood of the town, for the
whole cultivation lies within a mile of the walls; it is most
luxuriant, the climate being all that could be wished: but
beyond this limit soil is wanting. The sugar-cane is grown
here as a vegetable, and is stewed by the Turks in many of
their sweet dishes.
In the town of Adalia are numerous fragments of ancient
buildings, columns, inscriptions, and statues, which are
generally built into the walls of the town with care and
some taste. In the court-yard of the house in which I re-
sided there were eighteen wooden pillars supporting the
building above, and each of these had for its base an inverted
capital of a Corinthian column.
I was much pleased by witnessing the mode of life and
domestic happiness of one of the first persons among the
Greeks in this country. The master of the family, my host,
would rank as a gentleman in any country, and his wife was
very ladylike. I saw five sons and two daughters, three
men- and four maid-servants, and two slaves, besides one
servant provided expressly to attend upon me. It was a
strict fast with them, and they expressed their regret that
this prevented them from inviting me to join their meals,
but I had my dinner from their kitchen at any hour that
I wished. The wife, who was very handsome, looked far
too young to be the mother of grown-up children. The
dresses of Europe would ill bear comparison with their
unstudied costume, which was beautiful in its negligence,
each dress differing from the others in taste, but all gaily
coloured and loose, falling in the natural folds of the
ADALIA.
141
drapery. The use of starch or the smoothing-iron is un-
known in the country. The display of wealth in the
dresses may in description appear ridiculous, but the effect
was classical. The cap of the mother was formed of Turkish
gold coins, the intrinsic value of which must have been at
least £150; it partially covered the forehead, and hung
down the sides of the face: the coins were arranged as scales
of fish or armour, and long chains or a négligé of the same
hung from the neck down to the waist, with a larger coin
in the centre. The children had the same display of rich
ornaments; even the one in arms had almost a helmet of
gold coins.
sun.
The two slaves, who formed part of the establishment, had
only arrived the day before, and were not yet appointed to
their duties; they were lying about all day basking in the
The Doctor during one of his calls asked if I wanted
an Arab slave, as there were some very cheap ones in the
town for sale, telling me that for £6 or £8 I might have
a very handsome fellow. On taking my departure, I found
that in my bags had been placed two or three large loaves
of excellent household bread, baked expressly for me; and
indeed every kind attention was paid me in so delicate a
manner that I am distressed to have no opportunity of
making any return for such hospitality. The obligation
is painful to me; and to the surprise of Demetrius, who
says that the Turks are always glad to oblige Europeans, I
have persisted in preferring my former mode of rambling, to
travelling under an escort from the Pasha. I however ac-
cepted the Pasha's firman, called a Be-u-tee, a written order
for all I may require, and with this we started eastward at
about ten o'clock.
It is impossible to find points at a distance from which
to see Adalia, as its walls hide it, and these are completely
concealed by its rich growth of trees; but the situation of
the town is beautiful,—a cliff, whose top is an extensive
142
PAMPHYLIA.
plain, backed by another cliff at some miles' distance; and
this has also its plain of many miles, reaching to the foot of
the mountains. These cliffs much diminish the effect of the
view of the mountain range from the sea; but in front of the
town the bay is bounded by the continued chain of moun-
tains which rise proudly from the sea. I have never seen
mountains so beautiful, so poetically beautiful. I remember
seeing something of the same effect in those of Carrara from
the Spezia road, and again in Greece; and in each case they
were, as here, of marble. These mountains have a craggy,
broken form, and a grey silvery colour which gives them a
delicacy of beauty quite in contrast to the bold grandeur of
the granite peaks of Switzerland, or the rich beauty of the
sandy rocks of England. The mountains forming the
western side of the Gulf of Pamphylia rise from the sea
until they are piled up to the height of Mount Climax, whose
summit is now capped with snow.
Travelling due east over the plain, I saw nothing remark-
able except masses of gravel united by the deposit of lime
from the mountain streams, which frequently formed rocks
of pudding-stone on each side of the way.
There were
many wild-fowl of various kinds; the most striking were
the ibis, and the black and the white herons, with their ele-
gant necks and crests. There were snipes, ducks, and
water-fowl in hundreds along our path; we killed some, but
are reserving our shot and powder for rarer birds. Leeches
are found in such abundance in this neighbourhood, that
they are an important article of trade to all parts of Europe,
and still more so to America.
Continuing my route for eight miles further, I pitched my
tent amidst the ruins of Perge; near me was a small en-
campment of shepherds, who had brought their cattle to
pasture amidst the ruins. The first object that strikes the
traveller on arriving here is the extreme beauty of the si-
tuation of the ancient town, lying between and upon the
PERGE.
143
←
sides of two hills, with an extensive valley in front, watered
by the river Cestrus, and backed by the mountains of the
Taurus. An arch, a kind of castle, and the ruins of a
temple, bespeak the vicinity of the town about half a mile
before arriving at its walls. A few arches and ruins of
many scattered tombs lead to an immense and beautiful
theatre, the seats of which for the most part remain, rising
very steeply one above the other, whence the height is more
than in the usual proportion; the width is about 330 feet.
Near the theatre is a stadium, or course for races, which is
quite perfect, with seats along each side, and also forming a
circular end. This building is now used as an inclosure for
nursing camels. The adjoining town is surrounded by walls.
and towers, some square and others round, but the whole

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purely Greek, there being no trace of any later inhabitants.
An enormous building, which can have been nothing but a
palace of great extent, forms a conspicuous feature. The
Greek shield is often seen introduced as an ornament on the
walls, not placed in the centre of the tower nor having a cor-
responding shield at each corner, but appearing as if hung
144
PAMPHYLIA.
from the top*. Two or three temples may be traced, but
columns are not so abundant as in most of the ruins which
I have visited in this country; perhaps they may have been
removed. Some cornices and sculpture which remain show
the extreme richness of the ornaments.
I observed one very singular feature here which puzzled
me. On entering the town I noticed a wall, which at first
I thought was Cyclopean, but afterwards found to be of rock
or stone, without joints; on following it, there appeared in
places some jointed stone wall, and to my surprise I dis-
covered that this had been an aqueduct, and that the deposit
from the water had formed a solid mass or cast, from which
the stone walls that had formerly inclosed it had fallen
away; in some places these walls remained, but were en-
tirely incrusted in the deposit, which, having filled
up the
original water-course, extended over its sides, covering the
whole structure, and giving the appearance of a solid stone
wall. In many water-courses in the town I found the arch
of masonry inclosing a solid mass of the stone formed by this
deposit; and the earthen pipes which were placed upright
against the buildings, some of six inches in diameter, were
in many instances completely filled up, or had an opening
or bore left not larger than a quill; these were probably
rendered useless during the existence of the town. The
tombs are scattered about for a considerable distance on
each side of the city.
It was a beautiful moonlight night, and as I had under-
taken to call Demetrius an hour before daylight, that he
might find some ducks at their breakfast in a neighbouring
stream, I was somewhat restless, and thus rendered conscious
that it was a cold night. The howling and barking of the
jackals and wolves around my tent lasted until daybreak.
* In Ezekiel (chap. xxvii. ver. 11) is the following passage, referring
to the colonists of Tyre, from these parts: "They hanged their shields
upon thy walls round about; they have made thy beauty perfect.”
PERGE.
145
At seven o'clock Demetrius returned with his bag of ducks and
snipes, and at the same time arrived a present from the neigh-
bouring tents of kymac, milk, eggs, and bread. After my meal
I narrowly escaped a tragical adventure. "Every bullet has
its billet;" but none was yet billeted on me. As I stood
watching the busy scene of striking the tent and packing
the horses, I heard the report of a gun, and on looking
round saw within two yards of me, and under the same tree,
one of my hospitable Turkish neighbours with Demetrius's
gun, which had been left hanging on the tree, in his hand,
and with alarm strongly depicted on his countenance. All
Turks understand the management of their own single-bar-
relled guns, but this was double-barrelled; and after having
carefully let down one lock, he thought he might safely pull
the trigger, and he had thus discharged the other barrel.
His alarm was natural, and mine would have been as great
had I been aware of my danger; the charge entered the
ground within half a yard of my feet, where I saw the
smoking wadding.
The scenery on leaving this town, and indeed during the
whole day, has been beautiful. About two miles on the road
we crossed by a ferry the very considerable river Aksoo, the
ancient Cestrus, which has cut a deep bed in the rich soil
of this valley. For ten miles we travelled east-south-east
through a garden of wild shrubs, fruit-trees, and flowers, and
then arrived at an ancient city, which I judge from the maps
may be Isionda, standing upon, and up the side of, one of
the many isolated hills in this singular district. It is en-
tirely of Greek workmanship of a very early date, many of
the walls being Cyclopean.
Here is a striking instance of the skill shown by the
Greeks in making nature subservient to art. On approach-
ing the city is seen a long line of wall, partly fallen, giving
the appearance of strong fortifications having existed; but,
on entering, it is found to be the support of a range of seats,
H
146
PAMPHYLIA.
forming one side of a long stadium; the opposite seats being
cut in the rock, which rises from this theatre, the end of
which is circular, as at Perge. The whole side of the rock
has been built upon, and it requires close examination to
ascertain where the natural rock ends, and the colossal ma-
sonry begins. There are many strong walls and towers,
and several buildings which may have been either palaces.
or temples, although but very few columns or ornamented
friezes are visible. The summit of the hill, which perhaps
may be two miles in circumference, was walled; but I had
not time to examine this Acropolis. I was told that the
whole surface was strewn with fragments of columns, but
that none were standing; the tombs are numerous, and are
scattered round the town for a mile in every direction.
In this town occurs the peculiar mode of building the
walls with apparently unwieldy stones; but the structure
is more simple than it appears to be, consisting alternately
of narrow and broad courses, the former being six or eight
inches wide, the latter five or six feet, and the whole put to-
gether without cement, the joints being admirably squared.
On examining the section, I found that the construction was
thus:


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ISIONDA.
147
I remember to have seen in the west of England a fruit-wall
built upon the same principle, but with bricks,-how different
the scale!
Leaving this spot, which deserved more attention, we
journeyed south-east for twenty miles over a country capa-
ble of producing anything, but with scarcely an acre culti
vated. For the greater part of the distance the way was
through woods, where the trees grow, die, and fall unheeded.
Nature in this beautiful climate has produced a wilderness
of the richest trees, shrubs, and climbing plants: I noticed
seven or eight different kinds of oak; the delicate-leaved
Judas-tree, with its beautiful blossom; the ash and carob;
and, more abundant than any, the Siberian crab, with a great
variety of the clematis and rose acacia; all intertwined with
the vine and fig, so that it was difficult to distinguish the
stem which supported the rich cluster. The last year's fruit
hung ungathered on most of the trees, or lay decayed be-
neath them, the whole district being used only for the
browsing of camels and goats. The myrtles were prodigious
bushes; I measured several which covered a circle forty feet
in diameter, the stem being as thick as my body. In no
country have I ever seen or heard such multitudes of birds.
The nightingales in the evening were almost an annoyance.
April 9th.—This morning at an early hour I mounted the
cliff overhanging the modern village of Bolcascooe, where I
had slept, to examine the extensive and heavy-looking ruins
which broke the horizon when I arrived by moonlight yes-
terday evening. I found them extending over the whole
crown of the hill, and partially down its sides, but their
style is of a base age compared with the remains which I
have lately seen. The scale is vast, but there is an absence
of that most beautiful of all qualities simplicity.
of the cornices are elaborately rich, and of Greek work-
manship; but arch rising above arch, niche above niche, and
column supporting column, plainly indicate the influence of
Some
# 2
148
PAMPHYLIA.
the Romans. The remains of an aqueduct several stories
high show whence the city derived its water. On the
summit of the hill are many ruins of unhewn stone, massed
together with cement, the arches being of brick, and the
interior walls coated with stucco, which has in some in-
stances been covered with plates of thin marble, and in
others painted with red patterns in a rude style.
A kind of stadium forms a leading feature upon this Acro-
polis, more particularly from its having an immensely
high screen or square wall at the end, which has been orna-
mented in front with a rich projecting marble cornice, a
colonnade with a balcony above, and niches, the plaster of
which yet retains its colouring of beautiful light blue. The
panels of the ceiling in this colonnade still remain, and are
ornamented with various devices of dolphins and sea-shells.
Having seldom seen any specimen of the ceilings of ancient
buildings, I copied one of the many still to be seen in this
place. There are very few columns remaining; indeed, so
generally were they formed of brick and plaster that I
should doubt whether there have been at any age many of
marble.
On the east side of the hill is a theatre, highly interest-
ing from being in so excellent a state of preservation; but
the architecture, particularly of the exterior, is in the worst
taste. It resembles a large factory, from the number of
square niches in the walls of its proscenium. Over each of
the entrances in the front are long inscriptions, but the sun
shone so strongly upon them, and they were so high up,
that I could not see to copy them. They are partly con-
cealed by a brick arch, probably an after-thought or addition
of the architect. From the form of the letters, although
Greek, I judge that the whole town must have been built
after the conquest of the nation by the Romans, and after
their adoption, not only of the bad taste of their con-
querors, but also in part of their letters. I observed the S
PEDNELISSUS.
149
and V in Roman letters. On the top of the exterior are
still entire the stone sockets for holding the poles which
supported a screen or covering over the upper seats, as is
seen in the Coliseum at Rome. In the lobby are brackets
with inscriptions, but the statues which stood upon them
have been removed. The remains of the inside of this
theatre are far the most perfect of the kind that I have
seen; indeed the whole might be now used for its original
purpose. The proscenium is very richly ornamented with
niches, and a balcony or portico, all of the most elaborate
designs in white marble; the ornaments are heads, masks,
dolphins, flowers, and various animals. The eagle, in atti-
tude like the Roman eagle, is several times introduced.
The seats remain almost perfect, as well as the lobbies and
galleries leading to them. The walls of the proscenium and
sides of the theatre have been coloured, and still retain a
common red pattern upon the white plaster marked out by
black lines in a zigzag form; the niches have remains of a
beautiful light blue upon their walls; the masks also retain
their colouring. Around the top of the back seats of the
theatre is a series of arches, which spring from ornamental
circular brick columns, plastered over. The whole of the
seats and steps, the floor of the area, together with the side
doorways, and the lobbies and apartments to which they lead,
are quite perfect. The other buildings in the city are all
of the same date and style. In the situation of this town
the maps place Pednelissus.
April 9th.-Resuming my travels through a country of
the same description, I found in a wood on the side of a
rocky hill two towers, and the remains of a third, elegantly
built in pure Greek taste, as well as many scattered columns,
which probably mark the town of Syllium. The towers,
like those of Perge, were in the same style as those seen in
Italy built during the middle ages; they have had pedi-
ments, and these have had their statues, which generally
150
PAMPHYLIA.
have been injured or destroyed: but the stones at the
corners, and the fragments below, show that they have been
placed there.
III

Continuing our route through this rich wilderness, we
arrived at Legeláhcooe, which was about an hour's distance
from Mánavgat, the post village, on one side, and Side, or
Esky-Atália, on the other; the ruins of the latter being my
attraction.
I have sent a man off for corn for the horses, and am now
sitting in my tent, surrounded by camels, goats, and cows,
the care of the inhabitants of a few tents near me; their
fires are blazing, and these, with the light of a full moon,
and the various rustic noises of the shepherd's pipe, camels'
tinkling bells, frogs croaking, nightingales singing in the
trees, and owls hooting from the ruins, and now and then
a burst of alarm from all the watch-dogs at the approach of
jackals or wolves, give a peculiar effect to the scene; while
the open sea before, and the splendid mountains behind,
SIDE.
151
render the scene as picturesque as it is wildly interesting.
In front of the tent Demetrius is engaged in cooking, whilst
I am within writing, and enjoying all the independence of
this Arab life. My pelaf of kid and a brace of wood-
pigeons are brought in with some potatoes, which we ob-
tained at Constantinople; and on my finding fault with
them as compared with those of England, I am informed
that they come from England, the root not being yet grown
in this country.
The water-jug universally used in the mountainous dis-
trict, and which is always presented for me to drink from
when sitting on my horse, is of primitive construction, and
much resembles in form many specimens which I have seen
in ancient terra cotta; it is carved out of the section of a
tree or single block of wood. There is a side pipe, which is
used for drinking, and another centre pipe, larger, which, by a

K
152
PAMPHYLIA.
reversed inclination of the vessel, is used for pouring out the
water more rapidly, the drinking-pipe admitting the air to
supply the place of the fluid poured off. The heat of the
sun sometimes causing cracks in this wider spout, iron rings
are added to repair it; occasionally there is left on the oppo-
site side of the vessel, perhaps for ornament, to match the
drinking-pipe, a solid piece of the wood. In these various
forms the Etruscan vase may be plainly recognised; which
was the original, I venture not to decide. A shallow wooden
bowl is often used as a cup, into which a portion of the
water is poured; and as this is presented by a Greek female,
with the vase in her hand, I can give it no other name than
the patera of the ancients.
April 10th.-I this morning paid a visit of some hours to
the ruins of Side, which were about a mile from the spot
where my tent was pitched last night; they are far inferior
in scale, date and age to any I have before seen; the Greek
style is scarcely to be traced in any of the ruins, but the
Roman is visible in every part; in few buildings, except the
theatre, are the stones even hewn, the cement being wholly
trusted to for their support. The walls are very slight, and
of a period late in Roman history; but few columns or
traces of temples remain. I found a piece of a cornice, or
tablet, with a small galley carved in a rude style upon it.
The theatre has been fine, but is now in ruin, except the
seats, which are in tolerable preservation. The whole of
the area and lower parts being filled with a wood of trees,
it is difficult to judge of the size, but I should think it smaller
than three or four which I have seen within the last few
weeks. There being no village near, nor any cultivation of
the ground in the neighbourhood, the hidden relics and
coins will remain for future times to discover. The rambling
dwellers in tents could of course give me no information,
except that lime was obtained there. I found several kilns,
which are supplied from the cornices and capitals of columns,
FROM SIDE TO ADALIA.
153
these parts being the whitest and the most easily broken
up. The glowing colours in which this town is described
in the "Modern Traveller," as quoted from Captain Beau-
fort's admirable survey, show how essential it is to know
upon what standard a description is formed. It would have
given Captain Beaufort much pleasure to have gone inland
for a few miles, and to have seen theatres and towns in
perfect preservation as compared with Side, and of so much
finer architecture. From the account which he gives I was
led to expect that this would form the climax of the many
cities of Asia Minor, but I found its remains among the
least interesting.
Returning towards Adalia I have varied the road slightly,
but the features of the country continue much the same.
The author to whom I have just referred speaks of this coast
as being flat, sandy, and dreary; my description of a few
miles inland would be remarkably the reverse of this, for
I never was in a richer, and at the same time more pic-
turesque country, independently of the interest of its re-
mains. The tourist whose observations are made from his
yacht, a common mode of visiting Asia Minor, can see
little. What opinion even of England could be formed from
a survey of its coast? What resemblance is there in the
bare downs of Brighton to the wooded Warwickshire or the
varied beauties of Derbyshire?
On reaching the noble river Eurymedon we fell again into
the track by which we had come, crossing the bridge we
had before passed. The maps are all so extremely incor-
rect that I am unable to trace my situation upon them.
Having sought in vain for a considerable lake in them,
which is laid down as extending from this river to the Ces-
trus, I have no definite clue by which to discover the ruins
of Aspendus. Arrowsmith's map places the modern village of
Starus upon the site of Aspendus; but no remains of anti-
quity are to be heard of in the neighbourhood.
H 3
PAMPHYLIA.
154
About five miles nearer to Adalia, having crossed the
Cestrus, we travelled for nearly ten miles amidst hewn
rocks, sometimes apparently forming tombs, but more fre-
quently being the quarries whence building materials have
been obtained. This ground must have been in the vicinity
of a large city, but not even a squared stone is to be found.
Last evening my tent was pitched at what is called par ex-
cellence "the village," originally standing on the bank of a
small lake near the river Kaprisoo; but this lake is now a
wilderness of reeds and occupied by water-fowl. Here we
shot a woodpecker, and saw a beautiful variety of the jay
or roller, of which I have kept a specimen; we also put up
a jackal. The village consists of houses, five in number,
with walls of wickerwork lined in the inside with mud, and
with roofs of reeds. On looking around for a chimney, I
saw that the moon was shining through the upper part of
the walls, the mud lining only extending about three
feet from the ground, though the walls were perhaps five in
height; the ground was richly carpeted, and luxurious
cushions were placed on either side,—at least this was
the case in the hut owned by the Aga, or principal man, in
which I might have claimed a lodging; but I pitched my tent
at his door, and made his house my kitchen and servants'
hall. Here was the usual assemblage of persons tendering
their rural fare. The kymac was somewhat different from
that I had before tasted, and was excellent; it had not been
allowed time to form a solid scum or crust, but had been
broken up and mixed with the sugar of the grape, forming
a more agreeable cream than I ever tasted at a London
rout.
It is impossible for an equestrian traveller to learn more
of the entomology of a country than an extremely superficial
knowledge of the varieties of species. There were many
butterflies already on the wing which are strangers to
northern Europe, and some of the transparent-winged kinds.
FROM SIDE TO ADALIA.
155
The insect commonly known in English port-towns by the
name of cockroach or black beetle, and said to have been
brought from the West Indies, is found here, as is also the
bug, which has been considered by us to have come from
America in the timber. I see on the trees a great variety
of the cimex, and one or two kinds of dragon-fly that I do
not know in England. Vermin is certainly not so abundant
in the houses of the Turks as in most parts of southern
Europe; indeed the people are more cleanly than other
nations in similar climates. The chameleon and tortoise are
frequently seen basking on the rocks.
The people in the district of this country south of the
Taurus are in the peculiar state of having no settled resi-
dence, and their manners take their character from this
mode of life. I have not seen a village, or even a mosque
except in the city of Adalia,—the people all living in tents;
and from this circumstance they are less capable of paying
the prompt attention to the rites of hospitality which I
have met with elsewhere, although they have the same hos-
pitable disposition. Here the firman has lost its power, and
I seldom mention it. The only difficulty however that I
have had is in obtaining corn for the horses, which gene-
rally have to fare like the cattle of the district and eat
grass. I have authority to demand corn, but, living in their
tents, the peasants do not require it, and at this season they
have none for their own horses. Barley is the only corn
grown for the horses in Asia Minor; I have never seen oats
in the country.
April 12th.-When I returned to my hospitable enter-
tainer at Adalia, his family were all going to their church,
but they bade me welcome, and I felt myself at home again.
The house gave every proof of the goodness of its inhabit-
ants. In a bakehouse were five large tubs of flour, suffi-
cient to furnish bread for a barrack, in process of being
made into loaves, which were, according to the custom at
156
PAMPHYLIA.
this season (Passion-week), to be given away to the poor,
-a practice followed in this house to a great extent.
Seeing in one of the numerous store-rooms the large
stocks of oranges, lemons, dried fruits, seeds, and corn of
various kinds, I was half disposed to think my host kept
a bazaar; but these were his provident winter stores still
unexhausted. Over my door was an ornament formed of
palm leaves, which for this week were placed conspicu-
ously in all Greek houses. Some little children dressed
up were acting the portion of the life of our Saviour which
is commemorated at this season. The Greek Church still
dates by the old style; therefore this, as well as all other
festivals, is kept by them twelve days later than the date
in our calendar.
April 13th.-On returning from a walk of four hours I
saw passing my room door ten or twelve visitors, among
whom were several priests, and was astonished and afflicted
to hear that one of the children of my host, who was well
when I left the house, had died in a choking fit, and was
actually buried; the persons whom I had noticed were
friends come to offer consolation. The family were in such
great affliction that I at once ordered my baggage to the
boat, and set out on my voyage to Tékrova.
VOYAGE TO
TO
157
CHAPTER VIII.
PHASELIS.
PHASELIS.-OLYMPUS.-PHINEKA
M
LYCIA.
BAY.-STATE OF THE
PEASANTRY.-PASSAGE OF THE MOUNTAINS
TO ANTIPHELLUS.-
RUINS OF PATARA.-CITY OF XANTHUS.-INSCRIPTIONS AND CURI-
OUS SCULPTURE. TOMBS. COTTAGE. - ANCIENT CUSTOMS PRE-
SERVED.-EXPLORE THE VALLEY OF THE XANTHUS.—ANCIENT CITY
OF TLOS.-
TLOS.-GREEK SUPERSTITIONS.-HORSES OF THE COUNTRY.
MACRY, THE ANCIENT TELMESSUS.-CURIOUS TOMBS CUT IN THE
ROCKS.
April 13th.-Ir is Friday; on Friday I attempted to
leave England, but in vain, owing to a storm; on Friday
I had a wretched voyage on the sea of Marmora; on Friday
I packed to leave Constantinople, but was obliged to re-
main; and now on the same day of the week, at six o'clock
in the evening, I am sitting in my boat in the harbour of
Adalia waiting for the be-u-tee, or local firman, from the
Pasha; it was to meet me on the opposite side of the port,
about two hundred yards from the place whence I started,
but the boatmen say they dare not go further, and my
Friday's voyage is at an end.
Saturday, April 14th.-The sun having set, the city gates
were closed, and I therefore had to sleep in the guard-room.
This morning at three o'clock I was fairly afloat.
The boat is well built, and has the picturesque latteen
158
LYCIA.
sails; the crew are four Arabs, speaking a language wholly
Arabic, which appears made up of r's, a's, and h's, very gut-
tural and peculiar; the name of Hassan reminded me of
Eastern tales. As sailors these men are very well in a fair
wind, or when once out at sea, but they were arrant cowards.
I never was at sea without forming a resolution in
future to travel by land, and still necessity sometimes sends
me on the water. My motives for so doing at this time
were various; first to avoid, without giving offence, the
presents and suite of attendants offered by the kind Pasha;
in the next place the Governor represented the track by
the mountains as almost impassable with baggage-horses,
the usual route when the weather was calm being along the
sea-shore; again, I had intended to put in at each point of
interest along the coast, and also to save several days in
time. These reasons combined made me forget my objec-
tion to travelling by sea; but I never become insensible to
the monotony of a voyage, as compared with other travel,
and continually long for its termination.
In five hours, before eight o'clock in the morning, we
were at Tékrova, the ancient Phaselis. I landed, and at
once saw the remains of this ancient port. In the same
degree in which the ruins of the cities in the interior
have raised my conception of the grandeur, both in scale,
design, and execution, of the works of the ancients, the
vestiges of their ports and harbours diminish my idea of
their naval strength or skill. The harbour and town of
Phaselis are both extremely well built and interesting,
but very small; its theatre, stadium, and temples, may all
be traced, and its numerous tombs on the hills show how
long it must have existed.
The harbour is good, and the situation of the place, at
the foot of a lofty range of mountains, is highly pictu-
resque. After a ramble of a few hours I returned to my
boat, and desired to sail to Déliktash, the ancient Olympus;
PHASELIS.
159
but the men said they were afraid, from the appearance of
the sky, that there might be wind in the evening, and that
they must wait until after midnight for the land breeze, which
was the safest. We therefore lay in the harbour the whole
day and night, until past two o'clock the following morn-
ing; we then ventured to sail to the port of Olympus, which
we reached in three hours. This town is upon a still smaller
scale I speak of the traces of the Greek town only, as several
of the surrounding hills are covered with the slightly built
walls and houses in ruins left by the Venetians. The
form of the Greek letters in many of the inscriptions is
not of the very early date, but there are evident traces of
the town having existed through many changes.
Sailing round the bold rocky promontory and islands to
the fine bay of Phineka*, we again cast anchor, and I landed
on the modern walls of a ruined fort. The objects that
first struck me were the number of palm-trees which here
grow wild; the leaves are luxuriant, but the trees are not
very high. After searching nearly an hour for a trace of
human beings, we found an old man and boy, who had
hidden themselves from fear. After much explanation of
our pacific intentions, the old man gave us the information
we required as to the situation of the town, and then made
his escape to his tent on the mountain.
Walking for two miles by the side of the river, which
wound its way through a swampy meadow, we arrived at
a town consisting of two or three houses, described to us
as the Custom-house, the Governor's house, and some other
official buildings; their erection here being accounted for
* The modern name Phineka is little changed from the ancient
Phoenicus. According to Stephanus Byzantinus, this was also the name
of an island. Livy speaks of the cliffs which overhung the town.
Phonicus would signify a place abounding in palm-trees; so that the
name agrees remarkably with the account here given of the number
of palm-trees still growing there.
160
LYCIA.
by the circumstance that this is a navigable
one I have yet seen on the coast of Lycia.
first time I saw symptoms of trade; a few
wood being prepared to be put into two rowing boats, the
whole craft of the place. All this coast is now, as of old,
famed for its unctuous woods, and the Turkish name of the
district expresses this quality.
Two miles across the little valley, at the foot of the moun-
tains and up their sides, lay the ruins of the ancient Limyra,
its theatre, temples, and walls. As the evening drew on I was
again in my boat; but the timid sailors were afraid to ven-
ture to sea until past midnight, and after sailing for an hour
the anchor was again cast in a perfectly land-locked harbour
round the headland to the west; and to my surprise and
annoyance I was told that, although it was but five o'clock
in the morning, we must lie at anchor and wait for the next
night's breeze, as there was rain in the clouds, and there
might be a change of wind; these expectations were in part
realized, and for twelve hours we lay exposed to beating
rain and a cold easterly wind.
At the end of a long rainy day, we went on shore in the
evening in search of inhabitants, and to endeavour to obtain
provisions, for no birds came within our reach from the boat.
After following the sound of a flock of goats for two miles
through the woods, and in vain seeking the goatherds, who
had hidden themselves among the rocks through fear, we at
last found some tents; and after much peace-offering, and
hanging the gun on a tree at a distance and sitting down
to smoke, some boys appeared, and through them we com-
municated to the women who were in the tents our wish
to buy a kid. It required some management to satisfy
them that I was not come to carry away the boys for
soldiers, or to seize upon the flocks, which until lately
the pirates had been accustomed to do without tendering
any recompense; at last I threw down some money, to them
river, the only
Here for the
stacks of fire-
FROM LIMYRA TO ANTIPHELLUS.
161
a large sum, and this was irresistible; it was equal to
eighteen pence, and was to be the price of two fine kids.
Sitting down to the meal they offered us of honey, bread,
and youghoot, we were soon surrounded by a number of
wondering children, and I saw the stained finger-nails
and broad gold bracelets, or fetters, on the waving arms
of the energetic females, who were giving directions
through the thorns forming the walls of the tents as to
the kids which were to be sacrificed to satisfy our hunger.
The people through the whole of this district are in a
very wild state; but still the natural, or at all events re-
ligiously habitual character of hospitality is prominent;
perhaps fear may be the next leading feature. The great-
est favour that you can grant them, and one which if
they dare they generally request, is the gift of a little
gunpowder; my usual present is two or three charges,
which they tie up with great care in the folds of the turban.
From this part of the dress I have frequently seen unfolded
a little paper of snuff, or perhaps their money or any valued
relic.
Here for the first time I observed that the mountains
contained fossil shells, the nummulite being most com-
mon; in the rocks were also large masses of long and
clear crystals radiating from a centre. The upper parts.
of the mountains consisted of masses of chips of the same
marble as the rocks, and among them many rounded
pieces, the whole held strongly together by a matrix of
lime. On the shore were the decaying stems of trees, much
perforated by the teredo, many of its tubes being nearly a
foot long.
April 17th.-We again put out to sea at three o'clock
in the morning, and arrived by eleven at the little port
of Kákava, where I determined to change my mode of
travelling for one less tedious and affording more amuse-
ment. The coast we had passed presented from the sea a
162
LYCIA.
barren appearance, and even the outline was monotonous in
its grandeur. One peculiar feature in the voyage was the
effect of the extremely clear water over the white marble
rocks, which here form the bottom of the sea. Upon these
rocks I saw the sea-plants standing at a great depth, spread
out and motionless, and the whole watery world was thickly
inhabited by a great variety of shell-fish; thus was I per-
mitted, as it were, to visit this kingdom of the deep with its
crystal atmosphere.
The name Kákava applies to the whole of this district,
including several islands; I believe that it signifies Part-
ridge Country, and this bird is here very abundant. I
bought of some peasants at this place a hive of excellent
honey for about fifteen pence; it weighed nearly six pounds.
We encamped in the ruins of one of the churches of the
early Christians; and with our clothes, tent, birds' skins
and bedding spread in the sun to dry, two fires burning to
cook the meat, the boatmen first killing and then cooking
our meal, we formed quite a busy group, which excited the
attention of the peasantry, who came to share and contri-
bute to our encampment and repast. On the arrival of the
horses, for which we had sent to some tents six miles further
in the country, I was rejoiced to renew my travels on terra
firma, and discharged the boatmen, paying for the whole
voyage to Mais, for the completion of which I should pro-
bably have had to wait many days for favourable winds,
although the distance by land is but a ten hours' journey. I
had no sooner resumed my land travels than objects of
interest appeared: around me were nameless ruins, extend-
ing over a mile of coast, and containing numerous cisterns
or granaries, ruined buildings, and massy tombs, telling of
former extent, and marking their age as about that of the
Christian era. Among the plants found here is a species
of clematis, which I noticed as an ornament in architecture
peculiar to this neighbourhood; its leaves are elegantly
ANTIPHELLUS.
163
formed, and shine like ivy, and it has thorns*. The vetch
seen here is also peculiar†.
On the wild crags of the rocky mountains to the north
were many strong, heavy sarcophagi of the ancient inhabit-
ants, which had nevertheless been pillaged; the number of
tombs, compared with the size of the ruined towns, would
appear quite unaccountable, were it not remembered that
they are as imperishable in material as in construction, and
that they record, not a single generation of the living, but
many successive, generations of the dead. Ascending for
an hour we arrived on a cliff overlooking a beautiful valley
of rich corn-fields, which appeared as a garden amidst the
barren, craggy mountains around. This singular effect was
increased by the rocks rising high and perpendicularly from
the valley, which was a perfect level, suggesting to the mind,
what in all probability at no very remote period it was, a
lake, whose deposit now bears green waving corn. Crossing
this valley, in which were the tents whence we obtained
our excellent horses, we again continued the ascent of the
mountains for two hours, until the evening overtook us,
when we pitched our tent as near as we were permitted to
those of the timid peasants. Several times we were about
to place it, assisted and advised by the owner of the neigh-
bouring tent, when a voice of higher authority from the
interior caused us to remove further, to be out of sight of her
and her children; a bush or tree was a sufficient barrier, but
without some screen the women would have been almost
prisoners while we were near.
April 18th. This morning we continued the ascent for
two hours, and, after passing some richly wooded ravines, we
rapidly descended upon the singularly beautiful but wild and
barren neighbourhood of Antiphellus, an active little trading
harbour for firewood, containing two or three houses for
+ Hippocrepis comosa.
* Smilax aspera.
164
LYCIA.
official persons, and one or two boats to communicate with
the important island of Castellorizzo, a few miles from the
shore. The ancient town of Antiphellus stood on a finely
situated promontory, which still presents a theatre, founda-
tions of temples, and other buildings; but the chief objects
of interest in the place are the tombs, which are very nume-
rous, and of the largest kind that I have seen. The rocks for
miles round are strewn with their fragments, and many
hundreds are still standing apparently unopened; but the
greater number have been pillaged during the two thousand
years which have elapsed since their construction: they
have all Greek inscriptions, but these are generally much
destroyed by the damp sea air, which has eaten away the
surface of the marble. The cliff overhanging the town is
also full of tombs, cut into its face, many being highly
ornamented with architectural designs. The form of the
sarcophagus found here is peculiar to the district of
Lycia. The shape of the lid or top somewhat resembles.
the pointed Gothic arch. The tombs cut in the rock
have some resemblance to the windows of the Elizabethan
age, with their stone mullions. It is remarkable that all
the tombs cut out of the face of the rock, of which many
specimens will be hereafter given, are in exact imitation of
buildings of wood, the joints representing wedged ties or
dovetails, and the overhanging cornices being formed like
the ends of beams of round trees, producing a picturesque
architectural ornament.
At two o'clock we were again ascending many thousand
feet above the very striking coast, forming with its islands,
bays, and promontories a perfect map, but differing mate-
rially, I am sorry to say, from any map that I have with me,
as the following incident will show. When I was at Adalia,
taking Arrowsmith's map, which is the best, for my guide,
I hired a boat to Meis, the only place of that name men-
tioned in any of the maps or guide-books, and marked as the
VALLEY OF THE XANTHUS.
165
port of Mácry, the town I sought; but to my surprise I find
that the important island and town now under me are called
by all people here-Turks, Greeks, and Arabs Mais (Euro-
peans call it Castello Rosso, or Castellorizzo); and this
Mais, the most important place on the coast, the residence
of European consuls, is more than one hundred miles to the
south of the only Meis given in the maps. Travelling very
slowly up the mountain, I was soon again in my tent, in a
winterly climate: not a leaf had yet appeared, the corn was
but a few inches above the ground, and the almond-trees
just bursting into bloom.
April 19th.—At five o'clock in the morning the wind
almost carried away the tent; but we were the sooner on
our way, and for eight hours travelled over the summits of
the high mountains. Even here we frequently found massy
tombs crowning the pinnacles of rocks, and innumerable
chambers for tombs hollowed out of their hard sides, many
having beautiful architectural designs cut in the rock, and
others with the entrances most ingeniously concealed.
The geological character of the country varied little. The
higher region contained more of the masses of conglome-
rate than that below, in great part composed of rolled
stones. During the highest wind that I ever experienced,
blowing from the south-east, we continued our way, and
for many hours were descending rapidly and more steeply
than roads could be cut; we walked much of the way, the
horses leaping from step to step down the rocks. The cliffs
of the deep ravines were now of a softer limestone, afford-
ing better nourishment to vegetation; and we were again
in a summer climate, although the leaves and branches were
stripped off, and even the trees themselves torn up as we
passed along by the tremendous gusts of wind. The sea,
of which we had a fine view to the north-west, was broken
up into waves, and the rocks on the coast were hidden by
the clouds of spray. In the afternoon we arrived at the
166
LYCIA.
village of Fornas, about six miles from the coast, and nearly
on the level of the sea, and hence we walked over the hills
to visit the ruins of Patara. About a mile from the acro-
polis we entered the valley, and, as we descended, the tombs
surrounded us on every side. They appear from their form
and innumerable inscriptions to be all Greek, but not of a
fine age.
Proceeding up a valley, apparently formed by a lake, we
traced the remains of many small temples in the masses of
ruins, though little more than the foundations, or at most
the cellas, are standing; from one of these, three statues
had just been dug out, and sent off to Europe.
A triple arch leads hence to the city, and the brackets
upon it for busts or statues have Greek inscriptions; it is
not in pure taste. Several ruins of large Christian churches
are here seen in massy piles of stones, the materials of
former temples. The theatre is, as usual, excavated from
the hill sheltering it from the sea; but the quantity of sand
brought down by the river Xanthus, and by the almost con-
tinual eddies of wind occasioned by the high mountains of
the Cragus range, have formed banks of sand along the
coast, which is drifted over the walls of the theatre, so that
the area is more than half filled up, and the whole, with
many other ruins, will soon be entirely buried and left for
future ages to disinter. The harbour is now rich with the
vegetation of shrubs, and many fine clusters of palm-trees.
The city has been extensive, but the buildings are for the
most part constructed of fragments of earlier ages, when
symmetry of form was better understood; no building of
the early Greek age remains entire. The river Xanthus
lies to the north of the city, with the once splendid bay,
which is now a desert of moving sand, only marked by the
silvery course of the river winding its way to the sea. Colonel
Leake and other writers having mentioned that the valley
of the Xanthus has not been explored by Europeans, and
XANTHUS.
167
that cities may probably be traced near its course, I have
determined to seek a route to Mácry up this valley, instead
of by sea or across the range of Cragus.
April 20th.-On starting this morning from Fornas, we
for the first time had to take asses for our baggage, and
these were procured with difficulty. For eight miles to the
north-east we first skirted, and then crossed, a perfectly flat
plain, without a stone upon it, no doubt formerly a bay of
the sea; the accumulated sand has rendered it partially fit
for cultivation, although the greater portion is still a morass ;
on the drier part pasturage is afforded for numerous herds
of cattle. I saw thousands of snipes, whose numbers we
diminished for our larder; and these being of a different
kind to the common one in England, I have added one to
my collection of skins. It was noon before we had found
the Governor of the tents which form the frontier village
of Kooník, when taking the riding horses, we started to see.
the ruins of the city of Xanthus, which lay at about two
miles' distance, upon or overhanging the river of that name.
The other horses were to wait our return. We had no
sooner entered the place of tombs, than objects of such
high interest to the antiquarian, sculptor, and artist ap-
peared, that I determined to send for the baggage, and pitch
my tent here for the night.
April 19th.—It is now noon, and I regret that I have
not had time, and do not possess sufficient talent, to ex-
amine completely the objects here, which alone afford in-
ducement to the man of taste to visit this country, even
from distant England. The remains appear to be all of
the same date, and that a very early one. The walls are
many of them Cyclopean. The language of the innume-
rable and very perfect inscriptions is like the Phoenician
or Etruscan, and the beautiful tombs in the rocks, on the
side of the entrance of one of which is the following inscrip-
tion, are also of a very early date.
168
LYCIA.
↑BYENY: VO
PV: MYN ↑гp
ENPFPTY:M↑
A^:^TINTME
↑+BE:+XTPV
NP: S↑IPTA E
The tombs are wholly cut into, or formed by cutting
away, the rock, being left standing like works of sculpture.
In the ruins there are many parallelisms to the Persepo-
litan, as may be seen in this entrance of a tomb.

A
•
169
The elegant designs evince the talent of the Greeks, and
the highly poetical subjects of the bas-reliefs, the temples,
friezes, and tombs, some of them blending in one figure the
forms of many, probably to describe its attributes, are also
of Greek character. The ruins are wholly of temples, tombs.
triumphal arches, walls, and a theatre. The site is ex-
tremely romantic, upon beautiful hills; some crowned with
rocks, others rising perpendicularly from the river, which is
seen winding its way down from the woody uplands, while
beyond in the extreme distance are the snowy mountains in
which it rises. On the west the view is bounded by the
picturesquely formed but bare range of Mount Cragus, and
on the east by the mountain-chain extending to Patara. A
rich plain, with its meandering river, carries the eye to the
horizon of the sea toward the south-west.
XANTHUS.
The city has not the appearance of having been very large,
but its remains show that it was highly ornamented, parti-
cularly the tombs, two of which I have put in my sketch-book
somewhat in detail, as well as some other sculptures. I
did not find any well-formed Greek letters; in an inscrip-
tion over a gateway, and on one or two architectural stones.
the Greek alphabet was used, but not the pure letters.
There is no trace of the Roman or the Christian age, and
yet there are points, such as the costume in the bas-relief.
the attitude and appearance of groups of figures, that re-
minded me of the times of the Crusades and of the Romans.
I have attempted a sketch of the most beautiful of the
tombs, and I add the description by pen to make my drawing
more intelligible*. It is a sarcophagus, formed of the scaglia
of the country, standing on the side of a hill rich with wild
shrubs,—the distant mountains, of the silvery grey peculiar
to marble rocks, forming the background. Being finely
worked, the polish has greatly assisted in its preservation from
* The plates are necessarily omitted from the abridged book, but this
tomb is now in the Lycian Collection in the British Museum.
I
170
the effect of the atmosphere. The roof is somewhat grey, and
the fractures of the lower parts are tinged with the shade of
red which this marble assumes after long exposure to the
weather, and in places with yellow blended with brown. On
the top, or hog's mane, is a hunting-scene; some figures are
running, others are on horseback galloping, with spears in
their hands and mantles blown by the wind, chasing the
stag and wild-boar which has turned to attack its pursuer ;
the whole of the figures, although in a small frieze, are well
formed and finished. On each of the sloping sides of the
roof are two stones projecting about a foot, as found on all
these tombs, but which upon this are carved into lions'
heads crouching on their paws; upon one side of the roof is
a group, in which a warrior, carrying a shield, is in the act of
stepping into his chariot, which is of the early simple form,
with wheels of four spokes only, and is driven by a man
leaning forward, with his arms stretched out holding the
reins and a whip or goad: four beautifully formed horses,
The
prancing in various attitudes, are drawing the car.
chariot and horses appear sculptured on the other side of
the roof, differing only in the attitudes of the figures. In
the upper panels at the ends or gables are traces of
small carved figures. On the side of the tomb under
two lines of the peculiar characters of this city (perhaps
Lycian) is a group of figures, which I will describe,
beginning from the left-hand. A finely-formed figure in
a simple robe, his hands folded before him, and with a
head of bushy hair, stands, as if in attendance behind the
chair or clawed seat of the principal figure, who, clothed
in rich folded drapery, with short hair, sits in the attitude
of a judge, with one arm somewhat raised; before him stand
four figures: the first is mutilated, but appears similar to
the second, who has long bushy hair, confined round the
head, and looking like a wig; his attitude is that of a coun-
sellor pleading for the others; the loose robe falls gracefully
LYCIA.
XANTHUS.
171
from one shoulder, and is thrown over, so as almost to con-
ceal one arm; two other figures, differing only in having
the hair shorter and the arms hanging down, stand appa-
rently waiting the decision of the judge, and complete the
well-formed group. At the end, on a larger scale, are two
figures of warriors, clothed only with girdles of armour
round their loins, and petticoats reaching nearly down to their
knees, resembling the figures of the ancient Britons. The
background on the same stone contains a long, but, from
mutilation, partially illegible inscription, which I did not
attempt to copy. On the opposite end of the tomb are two
other figures of the same size; one, clothed in a loose robe,
stands in a commanding attitude fronting the spectator,
with an arm raised over the head of a naked figure also
standing. Were this marble found elsewhere, the group
might be taken to represent the baptism of our Saviour, but
the character of the figures does not support this idea, al-
though the attitudes would be precisely correct for the cere-
mony.
On the other side, under a single line of inscription, is an
animated battle-scene*: men on horses are fighting with

(PIPFPMPNDVEN.SPEN JEPSTNIPEND, TYV:48Y ENY
لام
J
MA
* Since the above sketch was made, and prior to the removal of the
tomb to England, several of the heads of this group were broken off.
I 2
172
LYCIA.
others on foot; all have helmets, and those on foot have
shields; some fight naked, others with a loose shirt or blouse
descending below the thighs, and confined by a belt round
the waist. The horse of the principal figure is ornamented
with a plume, and the rider has a kind of armour to protect
his legs. The groups upon the two sides are three feet six
inches high, by nine feet in length. I have not described
the architectural form, leaving that to be gathered from the
sketch.
The hog's-mane does not at either end extend to the full
length of the roof; and at each extremity of it is a niche

Vil
for attaching another stone. It is probable that there may
have been at each end, when the tomb was perfect, some
ornament, perhaps a helmet or figure of an animal, corre-
sponding in character with the other subjects. It is not
surprising that so beautiful a tomb should have been broken
open in all parts; but as each chamber is now exposed, I
trust that it may not receive further injury.
Upon another tomb, or high square pedestal, near the
theatre at Xanthus, are some curious bas-reliefs, which, to
assist the imperfect representation given by my drawing, I
will describe*. On the north and south sides are four figures
of similar design; the head is that of a female with the
Greek cap and hair, the breast is exposed, and the body,
which terminates with the trunk, has wings and a tail like
* These sculptures are now in the Lycian Collection in the British
Museum, and known as the "Harpy Tomb."
XANTHUS.
173
a pigeon's; from under the wings comes a bird's claw, clasp-
ing the legs of a child which is carried in the bosom of the
figure, the child appears to have wings wrapped over its
body, or this may perhaps be folded drapery. The figures
are all flying from the centre of each group and upwards.
In the middle of the south side, seated on an elegant Greek
chair, is a small figure wearing a loose robe, with a long
stick resting on his shoulder and two balls or fruit in his
hands. A female figure draped, but much mutilated, is pre-
senting a pigeon held by its wings. In the middle of the
north side is an old man, with a peculiarly pointed beard,
seated on a stool, under which is a pig; he also has loose
drapery, and a stick resting against his shoulder and held
in his hand; before him is the figure of a warrior delivering
up his armour; in one hand he holds the helmet, in the
other a mantle. On the east side an old man is seated in a
chair like the one on the north side; he has one hand raised,
holding what appears to be a small bird towards his face,
and before him a child is presenting a cock; behind the
child is a male figure and a dog tied with a string; behind
the chair of the old man are two figures, one holding an apple
downwards in his hand, the other raising one towards his
mouth. On the west side a dignified female, having a Greek
tiara on her head and loose mameluke sleeves, is seated on a
cushioned arm-chair, one arm resting on it, and the other
raised with the hand open towards a cow suckling its calf,
which are on a small scale, and placed half-way up this
compartment; below this representation of the cow and calt
was probably the door into the tomb, which has been de-
stroyed, leaving a squared hole; under the chair of the female
are apparently the wings of a large bird. In the centre, three
figures, similarly dressed, are standing or walking, each with
one hand down holding fruit, and the other lifting a cup or
patera towards the mouth. Before them sits a female on
a handsome cushioned arm-chair, with a footstool; her hair
174
LYCIA.
is plaited round her head, and in one hand she has a patera,
in the other a glass or cup held to the mouth. I cannot
explain the design of the groups on any of the four sides,
of which the centres scarcely seemed to form parts, although
each side is in a single bordered compartment. The figures,
which are about three feet high, are well executed in white
marble. The compartments, about nine feet in length, form
the top of the tomb, and are raised nearly twenty feet from
the ground upon a square pedestal of grey stone, and roofed
with two flat stones of a similar material. There is no in-
scription on this tomb.
Close by this is another similar tomb, of the same dimen-
sions, entirely covered with the singular characters used
in this city. In the walls of the acropolis a great number
of beautifully wrought marbles are built in as materials,
without any regard to their elegant Greek sculpture. Lions,
warriors, chariots, and horses are to be traced in many frag-
ments, and birds, like our game-cocks or pheasants, fighting.
On the site of a temple of rather small dimensions lay a
pretty frieze, about ten or twelve feet long and one in width,
representing a series of small dancing figures with flying
drapery; not less than fifteen of these were remaining*.
This temple, standing upon the brow of a hill, and six or
seven others which may still be traced along the same cliff,
must have produced an exquisitely beautiful effect.
A sketch of the cottage occupied by the peasantry in this
part of the country, will show that scale alone is wanting
to make it the temple of the former inhabitants; the tombs.
cut in the rocks in successive ages are also precisely similar
in architectural design.
* Around this spot were found the sculptured blocks which are
now in the British Museum, and known as the "Ionic Trophy Monu-
ment:" a full account of this will be given in a subsequent part of this
work.
XANTHUS.
175

FLOWCOUSI
150.
EUTEM
ند.
ARMY
In the houses of the Greeks only is wine to be met with,
and by them it is taken far too freely. In their mode of manu-
facturing it another trace of antiquity is recognised. They
add a flavour of turpentine, obtained from the fir-apple; this
was also the custom with the ancient Greeks, and the fir-
apple is found in all bacchanalian emblems surmounting the
vine-wreathed thyrsus or staff of the god.

The only wheat grown in Asia Minor is bearded, and this
is the peculiar kind represented in the figures of Ceres, and
upon ancient coins.
176
XANTHUS.

MAR
Merete
April 20th. Demelheér.-We have had a most beautiful ride
of fifteen miles from Xanthus, crossing the river, which is of
considerable size, at a ford a mile and a half below the an-
cient city, where its yellow turbid waters cover double the
width of its usual deep bed; then turning up the valley we
traced its course the whole way, scarcely diverging a mile
from it, sometimes ascending hills, wooded with well-grown
trees, from which were seen the many picturesque windings
of the river. The valley is the most beautiful that I have
seen in Asia Minor. I cannot conceive a more picturesque
point than the spot where I have pitched my tent tonight,
on the edge of a precipice commanding a view of the whole
valley, with fine rising pasture-land around, and backed by
wooded mountains towards Mácry. The soil here is light,
but affords good pasture for sheep; and in the valley culti-
vation is more attended to than in any country that I have
seen for many weeks.
The people seem well off, but their life in tents gives them
an independence of manners and character not very pleasing
to a traveller. They are exceedingly careless about money;
having enough to eat, they wish for nothing more. Both
man and beast are in a most wild state. We are now at
one of their encampments, and though we ordered the horses
to be ready at six o'clock this morning, at seven the men
had not gone for them, and there was so much difficulty in
TLOS.
177
catching them that they did not appear until one o'clock in
the afternoon. They were good horses, but had no shoes,
and were not accustomed to bridle or saddle; nor was the
man who brought them more familiar with these equipments,
for he tied my stirrups together under the horse with the
girths, and did not dare to encounter the intricacy of a com-
mon bridle, but asked my guide which way upwards to put
it on.
The Turks have not the least ingenuity: they never
apply any instrument to a double purpose, and if they see
any contrivance which is new to them, they exclaim, “Allah!
Allah!" even about the merest trifles.
April 21st.-We rode eight miles to the village of Cousk,
which consists of the house and establishment of the Go-
vernor of this district; and here an hour was wasted in
obtaining a teskary or local order for horses. At the next
village, Doovér, we again forded the river, and gradually
rising from the valley for about five miles, arrived at two or
three mills, turned by the copious streams which descend
from the mountains behind the ancient city, the ruins of
which had attracted me to this place. It is called in the
maps Pinara, but from the inscriptions I discovered it to be
Tlos.
Leaving our baggage, we rode up the mountain for two
or three miles. A few tombs bespoke the approach to the
ancient city; but its splendid and appropriate situation would
alone point it out as the site of a Greek city. The remains
now standing are very extensive, consisting of extremely
massive buildings, suited only for palaces; the design appears
to be Roman, but not the mode of building nor the inscrip-
tions: the original city must have been demolished in very
early times, and the finely-wrought fragments are now seen
built into the strong walls, which have fortified the town
raised upon its ruins. The theatre of the ancient city was
large, and the most highly and expensively finished that I
have seen; the seats not only are of marble, as has been the
I 3
178
LYCIA.
case in most that I have seen, but the marble is highly
wrought and has been polished, and each seat has an over-
hanging cornice, often supported by lions' paws. The cor-
nices of wreaths, masks, and other designs are records of a
luxurious city. There are also ruins of several other exten-
sive buildings with columns, but their positions are not
so good, and they may probably be of the date of the later
town. The most striking feature in the place is the perfect
honeycomb formed in the sides of the acropolis by excavated
tombs, which are cut out of the rock with architectural orna-
ments, in the form of temples, etc., some showing consider-
able taste.
Neither at Patara nor here have I seen the least trace of in-
scriptions similar to those at Xanthus; but there are several
in the Greek language, which may assist in deciding the date
of the place.
In this part of the country I have seen, to my surprise,
many women with uncovered faces; they are of a peculiar
and fine-looking race, the Chingunees, and appear to have
none of the shyness so general among the Turkish women.
Today some of the girls of this tribe sat down by us and
sang very prettily; these singing-girls in appearance and
occupation resemble the gipsies of Europe; their music has
something of the character of the Tyrolean mountain airs,
but softened by the Eastern language, and would be very
pretty, were it not for a nasal twang, which perhaps may
belong only to the rural musicians. The men are itinerant
tinkers: among the Greeks, both here and in Greece, they
are employed as blacksmiths, a trade which is avoided by the
Greeks from religious scruples. This is one of the many
superstitions traditional in the Greek church, and which are
perpetuated by the priests, themselves the least informed
among the people. I was told by one of them, as a reason
for this observance, that a blacksmith made the nails used
at the crucifixion, and that, having made more than were
TLOS.
179
required, he and his craft were cursed. He also informed me
that the motive for hanging up in their churches the eggs
of the ostrich, which with other large eggs are constantly to
be seen suspended from the roof by a long string, was, that
this egg is an emblem of faith, and he was surprised that I was
not aware that the ostrich, after laying its egg, retires to a
distance and looks at it, until by the heat of its eye the egg
is hatched; this undoubted fact so strongly shows the faith
of the bird, that its egg is considered a fit emblem of their
religion*.
The mode of burial among the Greeks also furnishes an-
other instance of their credulity. The outward marks of
respect are scarcely visible in their burial-grounds, little
more being left to mark the place of interment than a row
of stones, indicating the oblong form of the grave; but a pipe
or chimney, generally formed of wood or earthenware, rises!
a few inches above the ground, and communicates with the
corpse beneath; and down this tube libations are poured by
the friends of the deceased to the attendant spirit of the dead.
The same practice prevailed among the ancient Greeks, and
is to be traced in many of their tombs. The custom of hiring
women to mourn with cries and howlings is also retained by
the modern Greeks at their funerals.
April 22nd.—We were detained until half-past two o'clock
today waiting for horses, which were to have been ready at
six o'clock in the morning; they, like the people, are wild.
and live a happy and independeut life. The chase after the
horses occupied the whole day, about fifty being pursued
over the open plain until four were taken; three were mares
entrapped by catching the foals: they were led captive by
* Mr. Yates observes, that in an ancient inventory of the relies be-
longing to Durham Cathedral, and in other documents of the same kind,
repeated mention is made of Griffins' Eggs, and adds, "May not these
have been ostrich eggs, valued during the middle ages on the principle
here explained."
180
LYCIA.
tying unfolded turbans round their necks, for none of the
peasants possessed a halter.
The breeding of horses seems to be carried on to a great
extent here, there being herds of many hundreds in the val-
ley. The only kind of horse in this country is that of which
such spirited representations are to be seen in the ancient
marbles: there is much of the Arabian about the head; the
chest is large in proportion to the fine bone of the legs, and
the ears are small, as in the antique. I have not seen the
hogged mane, which was so common in the early ages. Shoes
are not used, and I doubt whether the horses of the ancient
Greeks were shod at all; no trace of shoes is to be found on
any antique statue. The ox of this district, also, is precisely
the same as that in ancient statues, and there is no other
breed in the country: the cow is by no means common, the
milk of the sheep, goats, and buffalos being that generally
used*.
We started from Doover with four horses, whose feet had
never worn a shoe, nor their mouths felt the bit, and which
therefore required much tutoring. The foals trotted by our
side the whole distance to Mácry, about twenty-two miles.
The pace of the horses taught by the Turks is a singular kind
of
run, between an amble and a canter; it is at the rate of
six miles an hour, and so easy that you cannot rise in the
stirrup. Being unaccustomed to this motion, I took the
trouble to teach my horse the more natural pace of trotting,
which I preferred for long travelling. As we gradually
wound through the range of the Cragus, which bounds.
Mácry on the south, the country assumed the forest charac-
ter, and the view as we descended to the bay was very rich.
We did not reach Mácry till ten o'clock at night; and
though the wind was cold, at intervals of perhaps five or ten
* The ancients also used the milk of sheep and goats only; the
use of cows and oxen was chiefly for the plough and other agricultural
work.
TELMESSUS.
181
minutes a stream of hot air blew past us, which in the dark
I attributed to lime-kilns burning near the wayside, though
there was no smell of the fuel; but I hear that there are
none in the neighbourhood, and that this wind is peculiar to
the place.
April 23rd. Today, until eleven o'clock, there was a mo-
derate wind from the sea, which lies to the westward, but
since that time gusts have come down from the mountains
towards the east, so violent that branches have been blown
off the trees, and the water of the shallow bay has been
raised in waves and spray in a contrary direction to the
general current of the wind. The mountains to the north
are obscured at times by clouds of mist, but no rain falls;
and I believe that this collection of vapour may probably be
the effect of the contrary eddies and local stagnation of the
air occasioned by the peculiar formation of the hills, the cur-
rents of cold air rushing down from the snowy mountains
replacing the heated air of the valley. I must mention, as
perhaps connected with this peculiarity, that the village of
Kiacooe, six miles south, where the Governor of this district
lives, and whence post-horses are usually obtained, is suffer-
ing so much from the plague that it is now placed under
quarantine, and consequently I had to hire horses elsewhere,
and at a high rate. The people say that this weather is
considered very unhealthy. No such place as Meis is known
here, although appearing an important town in the maps, and
mentioned in the "Modern Traveller" as the port of Mácry.
The town, or rather the little port or scala, is inhabited
principally by Greeks, and consists of about fifty houses or
magazines, where much trade is carried on in acorns, gall-
nuts, and firewood. This is the site of the ancient Tel-
messus, of which there are but few remains. The theatre,
of extremely plain architecture, is very large, and in toler-
able preservation, with the exception of the proscenium. A
number of caves, partly built and partly cut in the rock,
G
182
LYCIA.
extend along the coast, and appear to have been dungeons
or guard-rooms for a fortified town; many foundations and
walls remain, but it is difficult to trace the plans of the
buildings.
The chief objects of interest are the tombs, which are of
several kinds and dates*, some appearing from the style to
be of as late a period as the Romans; those standing on the
hills and near the town have been much shaken by the earth-
quakes so frequently felt here. The most beautiful speci-
mens are those cut out of the live rock which has been
excavated, leaving what in appearance are finely built temples.
A singular consequence of this mode of building is seen in
a column broken at the base, but remaining suspended by
the capital. The tombs are in most cases approached by
steps, and the columns of the portico stand out perhaps six
feet from the entrance to the cella; the imitation of a door
is carved in panels, with ornaments and nails finely finished.
The entrance has originally been effected by sliding sideways
a panel of the false door; but this tedious process has not
suited the despoilers of these tombs, who have entered by
breaking open one of the panels. The interiors vary but
little; they are roughly worked, and are about nine feet by
twelve, and six feet in height; on the three sides are the seats,
or more probably benches, upon which the coffin or urns
have been placed, three feet six inches in height. Some
tombs are larger, affording accommodation for the mourners
within them. The outward architecture varies so much, that
I can do no more than refer to the sketches given in a sub-
sequent part of this volume, which will assist in making my
memoranda intelligible.
* The Soros or Sarcophagus tombs at Telmessus, which are con-
sidered more modern than those excavated in the rock, Professor Por-
son decides, from an inscription in Dr. Clark's Travels, to be of a
date "evidently older than the 100th Olympiad," making the date pro-
bably before 377 B.C.
TELMESSUS.
183
On the panel of one is an inscription, but rendered nearly
illegible by the filtering of the water through the rocks above,
which has deposited so much stalactitic matter, as to bear
down with it even the portion of the solid rock forming the
projecting ornaments.
184
ROUTE
CHAPTER IX.
CARIA.
BY DOLLOMON, KOOGEZ, HOOLA.-VARIATION OF SEASON.-
MOOLA. GIPSIES.-STRATONICEIA.-ITS RUINS AND INSCRIPTIONS.
-MYLASA.-PRIMITIVE MODE OF FELLING TIMBER.-LABRANDA.-
KIZZLEJIK AND BAFFY TO MILETUS.-ITS RUINS.-INHOSPITALITY
OF THE PEASANTRY.-AFTERWARDS EXPLAINED.
April 24th.-AFTER a delightful ride of above forty miles, I
am in my tent at Dollomón.
tent at Dollomón. The route for the first six miles
was over plains, but we soon entered a most beautiful series
of wooded mountains, with bold cliffs rising above finely
grown trees. At intervals we came upon narrow valleys of
rich pasture, with crystal streams winding towards the sea,
which frequently opened upon us to the left, but so inter-
sected by promontories and islands as to present the appear-
ance of lakes. No part of Asia Minor that I have seen is so
picturesque as the whole of this district, throughout which
the hills are well wooded from their tops to the sea.
These hills are of a schisty limestone, much coloured by a
red ochry deposit from the water, which filters through it.
Vegetation is here far more luxuriant, but I have noticed
few new species of plants; there are some curious varieties
of the cyclamen, candytuft, and wild lavender. The lilac and
white cistus grow four or five feet high, and are very full of
TELMESSUS TO STRATONICEIA.
185
I see
bloom, as is also the wild sage. The heath is almost a tree,
being ten feet high, with a stem as thick as my arm.
a great number of plants with a white leaf, like flannel, which
grows as luxuriantly as the acanthus, but none are yet in
bloom*. On all the mountains in this district the scarlet
lichen clothes the rocks.
My collection of birds has received an addition to-day in
the bee-eater, of which we have shot several specimens; its
plumage is beautiful. The bees make their nests upon the
turpentine firs, which cover the hills, and from which they
gather much honey; and these birds follow them in flocks,
flying very quickly, making a loud clear chirp while on the
wing, like starlings, but more sonorous, and generally set-
tling upon the fir-trees. Hitherto the magpies have been in
such numbers as to annoy us; I have counted thirty or forty
together. The common jay gradually succeeded them; and
now the most frequent bird, which is scarcely ever out of
hearing, is the beautiful blue jay or roller, amusing us con-
stantly by making somersets in the air like the tumbler
pigeon. I have seen the common brown partridge today for
the first time.
April 25th.-We are now at Koógez, twenty-five miles
further to the north-west, and on the way towards Moóla.
I am perfectly lost in the maps, which have no resemblance
to the country either in form, rivers, or names of places.
On leaving Dollomón, after crossing one very large and an-
other small river, we ascended a considerable mountain, and
by two o'clock looked down upon a splendid lake, or rather
bay, for the water is brackish, a neck twelve miles in length
connecting it with the sea; it is six or eight miles across,
and a number of small streams run into it, but no river
of any name. I observed up these streams, at perhaps
six or eight miles' distance from the brackish water, the
* Salvia æthiopis.
186
CARIA.
sea-crab, apparently enjoying the fresh clear water of the
stream.
All the governors in this district are the remnant of the
old Derebbes, whose power but a few years ago threatened
that of the Sultan; they were then continually at war with
one another. The sudden destruction of the Janissaries,
and since then the equally certain but more gradual exter-
mination of the independent families of the Derebbes, have
secured the quiet state of the country, and perhaps the sta-
bility of the government. At my halting-place last night, as
well as here, the Governor's palace or establishment formed
the whole village; in it the post was conducted, and in fact
there was no other house in the place. The father of the
Governor here was a Derebbe of great power and importance;
his house, which has now half of its quadrangle in ruins,
would have accommodated many hundred dependents, and
adjoining was another ruin of a large barrack. Ten ships of
war, subject to his command, then floated in the lake, and all
the country around was dependent upon him, and served him
through fear. The power of the family is now extinguished,
and I am lodged in one of the half-ruined apartments of the
palace. The Governor is very civil, but throughout this
southern part of the country I find the firman is looked
upon in quite a different light from what it is where the
Sultan's new policy is more rapidly working its way. But
some progress has been made here; for a few years ago my
lodging would have been a prison, or the hold of a lawless
brigand or pirate. All these families know that the Sultan
is watching them, and only waiting for some breach of the
law on their part, or other pretext, to deprive them entirely
of power; and this knowledge has completely cowed these.
haughty chiefs.
On a small island near the shore of this lake or bay are
five or six cottages of Greeks, and a ruin of an early Chris-
tian church. The cross represented on the early Christian
TELMESSUS TO STRATONICEIA.
187

buildings is always of the form here drawn, which is very
similar to the one shown at Ravenna as a relic of that
æra. The Greeks have here their little place of worship.
In this colony I observed a marked peculiarity, namely a
litter of pigs, the only specimen of this animal that I have.
seen; probably they are the only ones in Asia Minor, for the
Turks object to the animal, alive or dead, as unclean.
April 26th.-Five mares, each with its foal, were brought
at seven o'clock to carry us to Hoóla, forty miles distant.
They had been fetched eight or ten miles from the tents of
their owners, the Chingunees or gipsies, who are here the
principal inhabitants of the mountains. We halted at one
of their tents as we passed, to arrange our baggage; and the
women, who were unveiled, displayed a strength as great as,
and an activity far greater than, would be found in the tents
of the Turks. During our short pause a number of women
and their children assembled round us. What a study for
a Rembrandt or a Murillo in the singular but extreme beauty
of some of the group! There was a mother with her child,
perhaps five years old, dark as a negro, but of a far healthier
and richer colour, almost veiled by its wild hair, which had
never been cut, and perhaps never combed; its neck was
hung with beads, coins, and various chains; its very few
clothes hung loosely, leaving the arms and legs bare. The
188
CARIA.
mother was young and of a peculiar beauty; with much ele-
gance and softness, yet with the dignity of a Meg Merrilies;
she had somewhat of the Græco-Egyptian style of face, the
features being rather long. Her hair, which was formed
into a band round her head and partly plaited, flowed with
a long handkerchief down her back. Her clothes were loose
and few; the breast was open, and the legs bare from the
knee; the arms also were exposed. With this appearance
even of poverty in the dress, there was at the same time a
considerable display of wealth; on one of her wrists I saw
three broad gold bracelets, or bands of plain gold, about
three-quarters of an inch wide, and on her neck other gold
ornaments. A bunch of fresh flowers was stuck into the
hair, a very common ornament among the people through-
out Turkey; it is placed so carelessly, and still with so much
taste both as to position and selection of colours, that a
stranger cannot but be struck with it; and this is done
without the aid of a glass, for there can scarcely be one in
the whole country: I have seen none in the houses of either
rich or poor, both Greeks and Turks having religious scru-
ples against their use. I observe my guides frequently
picking up flowers, and sticking them carelessly into the
folds of the turban, generally with the blossom hanging
downwards.
From some goatherds in the neighbourhood I obtained
two musical instruments, a long flute and a kind of guitar,

SENICAMPANEGOZDHEHE
U
MAR
AB
used by the inhabitants. They had themselves made them,
and played several airs upon them, one of which I recognised
TELMESSUS TO STRATONICEIA.
189
as the same I had heard played on a flute of a similar kind
during the dancing of the Dervises at Constantinople*.
The country is still most richly wooded: another species
of the plane is common here, far inferior to the one of which
I have before spoken; it grows upright and very high, and
does not throw off the bark, which is rough; it has a leaf
with five points like a star, which when touched emits a
strong smellt. The trees here form a complete wilderness
of rich thicket, a happy land for the birds, which have
miles of impervious woods, where they dwell in multitudes:
the vines are matted over the tops of the highest trees, and
covered with fruit, not a bunch of which will be gathered
except by the birds. I passed along a thicket of this kind
for nearly twenty miles yesterday, in which nightingales
and thrushes were singing most delightfully; and in the
evening the nightingales hymn my vespers, regardless of
the light in my tent, until the fatigue of travelling bids me
sleep.
Hoóla lies in the mountains, and is the first place that I
have passed, since leaving Adalia, deserving the name of a
* The same instruments, the present mode of playing upon them,
and even the usual attitude whilst playing, are exactly represented in
the following figures, copied from an Egyptian papyrus at the British
Museum.

+ Liquidambar imberbis.
190
CARIA.
village. Its elevation has carried me back a month in vege-
tation; here however the trees are in bloom, and generally
green. For the first time I see rye cultivated; oats are un-
known in the country. The distance from Koógez to Hoóla
is about forty miles, and twelve miles further is Moóla, which
lies still higher in the mountains. These are again becom-
ing bare, and of marble, and the twelve miles have carried
the season back almost to winter, the walnuts, figs, and fruit-
trees scarcely showing a leaf. The map distance is perhaps
not more than four miles, yet the climate is that of another
country.
April 27th.-Moóla is a town of considerable size, and
stands at the south-eastern end of its valley. Thence I tra-
velled north-west for twenty-four miles to the post-village
called Acrui-cooe (or Stable-village), and the next morning
continued the same line for eight miles to Esky Hissá, the
ancient Stratoniceia. This valley is varied by hill and dale,
and has its mountain, river, and meadows; indeed it con-
tains within its range so extensive and varied a country, that
it would be easy to imagine oneself in a far distant region;
I have fancied myself at home, for at this elevation (about
four thousand feet) the season and the products of the soil
are precisely those of England, the trees just in leaf, the
flowers coming out, and no plant to be seen that is not
known in our country.
The ancient town of Stratoniceia has extended over a con-
remains, must have
siderable space, and, judging from the
been formed of magnificent buildings. Five or six temples
may still be traced, and it has its theatre in the hill on the
west of the town. Many of its walls are built of the ruins
of former structures, which appear to have been all of white
marble. One immense cella of a temple still stands in the
centre of the town; its walls are of the large stones used by
the early Greeks; and at each corner is a sculptured shield,
with a sword or spear across the back of it, as seen so fre-
STRATONICEIA.
191
quently in Pamphylia. A handsome cornice still runs round
a part of the walls. The stones within the portico are co-
vered with inscriptions; I copied one, which, from its posi
tion, and the form of the beautifully cut letters, must have
been among the earliest.
The walls of the cella on the outside were literally covered
with inscriptions, which might all be deciphered by devoting
time to them. Many parts of columns still stand in their
original positions, and also two or three fine arches and door-
ways, indicating the magnificence of the former buildings.
The present village is scattered over a wide space, and is
formed of, and within, the ancient ruins.
The road hence to Mellássa, the ancient Mylasa, is varied
by many small hills, from which it descends steeply to a
plain, with the town standing at the end of it. Along the
whole line of road I observed much ironstone, and some
almost pure iron-ore: the small hills were all of the mica-
ceous schist which I have before endeavoured to describe;
it varied much in colour, being sometimes as white and shin-
ing as silver, and forming a sand like Calais sand, but glit-
tering with mica; at other times being almost jet black,
then red, blue, green, or yellow. The broad veins of marble
were highly crystallized in many places, and almost trans-
parent, resembling the agate rocks of the central country;
the slaty schist was shivered into splinters a foot long, and
in some places into flakes as thin as paper, the whole indi-
cating the effects of great heat. The country was entirely
covered with a forest of fir-trees, the mode of felling which
is so singularly primitive, that the American Indian alone
could do it in a more simple manner. The bark is cut for
two or three feet, and the trunk wounded with the long
knife of the people; afterwards for a season the turpentine
bleeds from these cuttings, and they then set fire to it, thus
consuming the trunk to the depth of about an inch: the tree
is then again chipped, and the fire applied to the renewed
192
CARIA.
discharge of inflammable sap. Some years are thus em-
ployed in felling a large tree, which at last falls, borne down
by a heavy gust of wind. After the tree is down, the slow
habits of the people are still shown in their further opera-
tions. The small branches alone are cut off for firewood;
the trunk is then chipped or grooved on the upper side, so
as to catch the rain-water, to promote the decay of the
wood; and in this state the tree lies, sometimes across a
path, which is turned in consequence for several years,—
until, falling to pieces, the parts are carried away on the
camels and asses employed in the trade of furnishing fire-
wood to the villages and sea-ports. The timber, although
extremely straight and good of the kind, is used for no other
purpose than fuel, and in every neighbourhood many hun-
dred trees are undergoing the process above described. The
smaller trees, laid in lines around the cultivated grounds, are
used as fences, the branches soon harbouring luxuriant vege-
tation, forming a thicket, through which the cattle seldom
break.
The water-jars of this western part of Asia Minor are
made of red clay, and are in form precisely like the terra-
cotta vases of the ancient Greeks. These jars, which stand
but insecurely, are seen tied to the trunks of trees by the
wayside, and kept constantly filled for the use of the tra-
veller. This extremely grateful supply of water, in parts of
the country remote from natural springs or aqueducts, is a
religious care for the ablutions before prayer. There are
very frequently endowments for the maintenance of this de-
votional observance. Upon fountains supplied by small
aqueducts are frequently Turkish inscriptions relating the
-
* Mr. Yates observes, that to the same primitive and tedious method
of felling trees intended for burning, Theophrastus, speaking of the na-
tives of Ida, appears to allude when he says, "that after these things,
the tree, being decayed, falls in consequence of the under-cutting, by the
force of the winds."
MYLASA.
193
motive and occasion of such bequests to the stranger and tra-
veller. The replenishing of these jars is usually the care of
the women, who may be seen carrying them upon their backs,
slung by cords in the manner represented in this sketch.

TURRERA
GA
час
Siz!!
On descending to the plain of Mylasa, towards the south-
west, the mountains, or rather elevated valleys, assume a
singular appearance, presenting a long table-land, ending
abruptly in a bold cliff. This portion of land is backed by
high mountains, and from its form I conceive that it is of
the same character, and has the same origin, as the volcanic
country in the interior. An imposing fortification stands
upon one of these cliffs, erected during the time of Soley Bey.
On entering Mellássa I was amused by a gravestone in a
Turkish burial-ground, formed of a robed female statue of
white marble, stuck head and shoulders downwards into the
K
194
CARIA.
ground: the projecting feet had been broken off, but the
folds of the drapery showed that the statue must have been
of good Greek workmanship. In the town I also saw a
beautiful body of a child, about a foot or eighteen inches
long, with one arm over its breast, built into the wall of a
house; the head and legs had been broken off. I wished
to purchase it, and was told that the occupier of the house
would willingly part with it for a trifling sum, but that he
could not because he was a rich man. On inquiring into the
reason of this, I learned that the stones of the country are
the right of the governor, as lord of the manor; and that if
he heard of a rich tenant selling one, he would assert that
the stone contained gold, and levy a tax or fine upon him
of some thousand piastres. This arbitrary power proceeds
doubtless from a very bad system, but in its operation is not
without its advantages. The law of the Koran, by which the
country is governed, is known to all, and its comprehensive
declaration, "Thou shalt not steal," is easily understood. If
any man obeys the law, he is secure, even from the caprice
of a Sultan; but if once he breaks it, the offender has placed
himself at the mercy of a governor, whose sole object in pur-
chasing his district is gain. The offender is therefore fined
according to his power of paying; his life or liberty would
be no gain to the governor, and thus his gold is his only
ransom; the effect of this system is that a rich man very
rarely breaks the law. I have often heard that to be rich
in Turkey was dangerous, and I now see the meaning of the
expression.
Every house, wall, or fence is formed of the stones of the
old town, which must have contained very highly ornamented
buildings. There remain standing some walls and many
foundations, a beautiful Corinthian arched gateway, and a
single fluted column; the latter stands conspicuously in the
upper part of the present town, which is a place of consider-
able importance.
LABRANDA.
195
April 30th. Yesterday I travelled thirty-two miles; to-
day I have only completed twenty-four, bringing me to this
village, Báffy, near the southern end of the lake of the same
name. About eight miles on my journey today I saw the
ruins of Labranda, near the modern village of Iakly. The
only conspicuous building of the place is a beautiful temple
of the Corinthian order, but I think not of the finest age:
its situation is by no means good, which is rarely the case
with the temples of the early Greeks: it stands in a recess
in the hills, and is consequently not seen without approach-
ing close to it. There are twelve fluted columns, and four
not fluted, but apparently prepared for this ornamental
finish. Other columns lying on the ground are reeded, and
yet are evidently for the same temple. From several fea-
tures about it, I should fancy that the temple had never been
completed. The symmetry of the fluted columns is much
disturbed by a kind of panel or tablet, not let in, but left
uncut, projecting above the fluting. On each tablet is an

ܐ
DUYU TREMENTE SYLAAJ
AROLASOVATION
MAU PELLITUANTITYUL
IMAGINARIUMYSTE
JUNKMANNUSTAN
BUSTERATURCUTIA
VINO PALIEKA
Nom SAM
REMAIN
inscription. I copied two from those on the columns at the
back or west end, which were the easiest of access.
contents of the two are in effect the same *
The
* The following is the translation of one :-" Menecrates, son of
Menecrates, the chief physician of the city, wearing a wreath, provided
this column with its base and capital in memory of his daughter,
Tryphonete, herself also wearing a wreath, and being a director of the
Gymnasium."
K 2
196
CARIA.
On a small hill to the north-west there are several founda-
tions of other buildings, apparently walls, but of very limited
extent.
At half an hour's distance is the picturesque village of
Kizzlejik. The country here is extremely beautiful, and is
again becoming ornamented by the trees and shrubs of a
warmer climate; and among them the Italian stone-fir, which
I think I have not seen since leaving the Troad.
The little village of Báffy lies among hills richly wooded,
and inclosed between two ranges of mountains. Its distance
from the neighbouring lake, which is shut out from sight,
is about two miles. At the southern end of the lake are the
ruins of a considerable town; but as a day would have been
occupied in visiting it, I was satisfied with the distant view
across the water. Walls inclosed it, and an island in front
was covered with buildings. In the Useful Knowledge map
the place is marked as Heracleia, and Myrus is placed higher
up the Mæander; but, from the information I received, I
should rather give this town, and the lake also, the name of
Myrus.
A series of wooded hills, and an impervious thicket, with
not even a goat to browse upon it, extended along the side
of a lake for twenty miles to Palláttia, the ancient Miletus.
The lake, which is brackish, is connected with the Mæander
by a river celebrated for its fish, about two miles long. A
little colony of Greeks, who had their fishing establishment
on this spot, gave me much information as to the state of the
plague in this part of the country: they were themselves in
quarantine, and kept away from us, but presented two fine
fish of a kind which I did not know, and a loaf of bread. I
insisted upon making a return in money, and at last a bowl
of water was handed to receive my small coins. Unfortu-
nately at all the post-villages the plague was raging severely,
which not only greatly increased my trouble in obtaining
horses, but quadrupled my expenses. The system of each
MILETUS.
197
village isolating itself by local quarantine is now generally
adopted even by the Turks, although they do it in a careless
way. In this part of the country we found some exclusively
Greek villages,-for here the villages of Greeks and Turks
are very frequently distinct,—the appearance of neatness at
once bespeaking the former nation, and the presence of a pig,
and the absence of the stork, giving further proof that no
Turk lives in the place.
Miletus was probably once on a headland or island in a
bay or lake, for its hills rise out of the perfectly dead flat of
the valley of the Mæander, which at this point is about ten
miles across, and runs up towards the north for five miles,
and then eastward as far as Denezleé. Of this upper part I
intend to see more. The land here is almost wholly pasture
or swamp; and the river, which is deep but not broad, by its
winding course shows the origin of our term for that pecu-
liarity; it meanders as much as the river at Stirling. Its
waters bring down a large quantity of mud and sand, and
this deposit going on for ages doubtless accounts for the na-
ture of the soil of the immense plain, which has not a rock
or stone larger than a rounded pebble, except the fragments
of some columns or ancient buildings.
At Miletus are the remains of an enormous theatre. An
aqueduct may be traced, and the site of several temples; its
other remains are only walls, apparently of Roman or Chris-
tian date, and many of its broken columns are evidently
Christian. There are the ruins of a Christian church,
formed out of a Greek temple, of the Corinthian order,
whose fine arched vaults have supported the structure of
each age, of which the ancient Greek has proved the most
durable. Here I pitched my tent: before me stood a fine
mosque, built of the ruins of Christian churches; but its
doom was also sealed; the stork alone occupied its ruined
walls.
The modern village contains but a few huts, the unhealthy
198
CARIA.
:
situation and inactivity of the people having reduced their
numbers to less than fifty. I was recommended by them
(for they would not point out which was their Aga,) to re-
move to a little distance, as they had very recently had ill-
ness among them. No mark of hospitality was shown to
me, and on applying to hire horses I was shunned by all.
The authority of the firman was useless, for they would not
point out the chief to whom I might present it: the tempta-
tion of money was also of no avail, as they said they did not
want it, and their horses were at pasture in the plain others
led me to suppose they would bring horses; but all failed,
and I was unable to proceed. The children were not checked
for calling us Ghiaours, and we were laughed at by the
people,—a situation by no means soothing to the temper of
either an Englishman or a Greek. My servant Demetrius
swore at the whole nation of Turks, and upbraided me by
asking where was the great hospitality for which I praised
this people. Not being disposed, in consequence of one in-
stance to the contrary, to condemn all the nation, I said that
there must be some cause for our being so neglected here.
Some peasants passing through to the next village, San-
soón, were prevailed upon as a favour (for they were not in-
fluenced by money) to carry the baggage; and a lad, partly
by our intimidation and partly by his own poverty, was led
to take the bold step of supplying us with two riding horses,
which we agreed should go with us for a fixed sum to Chánly,
the second village on our route; the others were going there
also, but they would only agree to carry the baggage half
way, and this as a favour. We no sooner got out of the
village, than sociable chat commenced, and the mystery of
our ill-usage was solved. Last year four Europeans,—it is
to be feared English,-the Captain, two Milordos, and an-
other person, paid a visit to the ruins from their vessel; they
hired horses to return to the sea, a distance of about ten
miles. On the way Milordos struck one of the Turks; a
MILETUS.
199
quarrel ensued, and a lad was severely beaten, and left they
say half-dead. The Turks upon this put down their load,
leaving the party half-way upon the road, to get as they
could to their vessel, but offered no violent retaliation. On
their return the whole village swore to have no intercourse
with Europeans in future; and in order to do this without
breaking the law, they would not point out their chief, to
whom, or of whom, alone an application or complaint can be
made. The lad who accompanied us was of a neighbouring
village, but was cautioned by the people of Palláttia that we
did not intend to pay him, and that he was sure to be well
beaten by us. We could not remove from his mind the fear
of this, and as we found plenty of horses at the Greek village
of Sansoón, at his earnest request we released him from his
bargain of accompanying us further, and he, to his great joy
and surprise, returned home without a beating, and with
money in his pocket. This incident, I think, shows how
much forbearance and philosophy there is in the conduct of
these people.
200
CHAPTER X.
SOUTH OF LYDIA.
PRIENE.-SANSOON.-THUNDER-STORM.-NATURAL HISTORY.-CHANLY.
-SCALA NUOVA. - EPHESUS.-ITS REMAINS.-IDIN, THE ANCIENT
TRALLES.-A MARKET-DAY.-VALLEY OF THE MEANDER.
May 1st.-The Greek village of Sansoón is prettily placed'
house above house, upon the rocky slopes of the mountain,
and commands a splendid view of the valley and lake
which we had passed. An horizon of beautiful mountains,
rising behind richly-wooded hills, gives bounds to the plains
below.
Within a mile of Sansoón towards the sea, and upon a
bolder and more precipitous rock, stood the ancient Priene.
The admirable choice of situation for these two towns shows
that the taste of their ancestors is inherited by the modern
Greeks. The Turkish village of Sansoón, which lies in the
valley a mile below, is now for the most part in ruins, and at
this season is wholly deserted by its inhabitants for their
tents in the hills. The villagers of the Greek Sansoón soon
came within their legal quarantine distance to learn our
wants, and on my return from a walk I found my servant
gossiping with thirty or forty wondering and intelligent
hearers who stood around him. These inhabitants were all
employed in spinning, winding, or working in some way, and
PRIENE.
201
their industry seemed, from the appearance of the houses
and everything around, to have met with its reward. The

implements for spinning and the mode of using them are
precisely those seen represented in the vases and sculptures
of the ancient Greeks. I observed the same mode through-
out the country, the store of wool being sometimes placed
within the capacious sash or shawl, instead of on the distaff.
The men are often employed in spinning the goats' hair and
coarse wool for making their tents. We made our purchases
of bread, flour, wine, and eggs, and the basin of water
received the small return for our stores, and horses were
brought to us in the morning.
I was not able to examine closely the ruins of Priene, but
saw many old walls covering an extensive slope of a hill, out
K 3
202
SOUTH OF LYDIA.
of which, as if built by art, spring perpendicularly the rocks
on whose top was the acropolis: a few walls also remain, and
the cliff has been perfected in its face by the walls of the
early Greeks, who worked well in concert with nature. A
theatre behind is, as usual, cut out of the face of the hill.
In my tent at Miletus I experienced an awful night of
successive storms of thunder. My tent appeared to be the
target at which every weapon of the elements was aimed.
The setting sun left us oppressed by a sultry heat; soon
afterwards a gust of wind made the cords quiver and the
canvas belly before the howling blast; the rain followed in
torrents, loudly hissing as it fell, and scarcely turned from
its downward course by the power of the wind; the tent was
lit up by the successive flashes of lightning, and the peals of
thunder, had they not been softened by the long echoes as
they rolled into the distance along the ranges of moun-
tains on either side, would have awakened even Demetrius,
but he lay fast asleep. I called to him, but the noise of the
falling rain on the tent had rendered his ears deaf to feebler
sounds, and he slept on. Fine, calm, clear moonlight suc-
ceeded, and every dripping leaf multiplied the stars; but it
was not in stillness; for the clouds, which had been borne
beyond our horizon, were still pealing in their distant pro-
gress, leaving the mountains vibrating their notes. After
slackening the braced cords of the tent, I lay down to sleep,
but was again awakened by a repetition of the storm. The
lightning, which seemed to linger on the canvas, showed me
by my watch hanging at a distance that it was three o'clock.
While dozing I was startled by seeing amidst the flashes a
light and smoke within the tent, and calling with all my
strength to awake Demetrius, found that he had just been
roused by the storm and had struck a light, and that it
was his brimstone match which I had mistaken for a
thunderbolt. To converse was impossible, and listening
to the twice-told tale of the storm I soon again fell asleep,
MILETUS TO EPHESUS.
203
leaving Demetrius, who acts the Turk only too well, sitting
with his pipe, listening to the thunder, which lasted till near
eight o'clock in the morning. The only traces of the tem-
pest which I then observed were the noisy cries of myriads
of gulls and sea-birds hovering about, probably in search of
the animal wrecks left by storm.
May 2nd. The ride of fifteen miles to Chánly, (probably
the ancient Neapolis,) standing not far beyond the pro-
montory of Trogilium, is for half the distance up the steepest
track I ever rode over. From the summit of this main
range, of which Trogilium forms the termination, (although
Samos is geologically a continuation of it,) is seen on either
side a perfect and beautiful map,-the only good map of this
country,―on the one side extending to the mountains
forming the Dorian Gulf, and on the other to those of Chios
and Smyrna. The road now descended, but not so pre-
cipitously, and my time was fully employed in admiring the
great variety of beauty of the trees and other features of
the natural history of the spot. There is an oak here that
I have not before seen, or at any rate not in so luxuriant
growth; it affords excellent timber, although not a very
lofty tree; the leaf is eight or ten inches long, and cut
almost into ribbons like the fern*. The dazzling colours of
the bloom of the pomegranate makes one regret that it
should ever fade into so insipid a fruit. A tree very com-
mon here, having the leaf and growth of an ash, but of a
dark colour, is now covered with fruit nearly ripe, blue and
about the size of currants, but growing in erect bunches
like that of the laurustinus; it is called chicureat. Another
has a leaf in shape between the willow and the peach, but
more like the former, the back of the leaf being white: it
bears a small yellow flower from the stem, which scents the
air more strongly than any blossom I am acquainted with,
Quercus Cerris.
+ Pistacia Terebinthus.
204
SOUTH OF LYDIA.
more powerfully sweet than the orange blossom of Sicily;
the fruit is reddish and like a small date; it is called
gegefer*. The trees are neglected here by man alone, the
birds and insects enjoying them undisturbed. I have seen
several woodpeckers, and a small nut-boring bird, the nut-
hatch.
The entomologist would here find a wide field for study.
I thought England in my younger days a rich and beautiful
one, but here the insects, like man, assume a far more gay
costume. There are many gaily-coloured species of the
blossom-eating tribe of soft-winged beetles, some in form
like the diamond-beetle, though not so brilliant. A large
species of the Gryllus tribe seems to ape the birds, flying
on every side from tree to tree, and chirping with a shrill
notet. The butterflies are becoming very numerous, and
each day shows some new variety; the beautiful Panorpa
coa, with its long balancing wings, tempted me to its de-
struction.
The mulberry-trees which were under cultivation around
the village of Chánly bespoke its Greek inhabitants. There
is another village bearing the same name, but wholly of
Turks, about four miles distant, whose inhabitants are now
fast falling before the plague. Chánly was in quarantine;
but knowing that we did not come from an infected place,
the people were not very strict, and furnished us with
horses, with which we proceeded along the bay, to a spot
a few miles beyond Scala Nuova, where we pitched our
tent. At this town many victims are daily carried off by
the plague, and this prevented my being able to procure
post-horses. On approaching the city I skirted its walls, and
here, as with most Turkish towns, the favourable impression
*
Elæagnus angustifolia.
+ Doubtless the Terrig or Cicada, so well known from the mention
of it by Homer, Anacreon, and Virgil, and so much the object of favour
among the Athenians.
EPHESUS.
205
.
is perhaps highest before entering. Scala Nuova, in situa-
tion and outward appearance, is particularly beautiful;
being built upon the side of a hill, every house is visible.
The town is walled, and has a handsome aqueduct. Its little
harbour, which was tenantless, is formed and defended by a
curious neck of land and an island; on the latter is a tower
for its defence, and the whole city has the appearance of a
fortification. It ranks amongst the largest of the towns in
the country, but at present is cut off even from any com-
merce by the plague.
My next move was a three hours' ride to Ephesus, a place
so familiar to the mind that one cannot but feel disap-
pointed at not seeing realized all the ideas associated with
it.
The vicinity of Ephesus to the coast, as well as to
Smyrna, has enabled many travellers to visit this celebrated
city, and the memory of the past may perhaps have led
them to indulge too freely their imagination whilst con-
templating the few silent walls which remain.
Of the site of the theatre, the scene of the tumult raised
by Demetrius, there can be no doubt, its ruins being a wreck
of immense grandeur. I think it must have been larger
than the one at Miletus, and that exceeds any I have else-
where seen in scale, although not in ornament. Its form
alone can now be spoken of, for every seat is removed, and
the proscenium is a hill of ruins. I was here reminded
that the names used in this country remain still unchanged;
for as I sat on a broken portion of a seat under the
shade of the wild fennel, which grows here ten or twelve
feet high, and to which spot I had been called to see a
sleeping snake, my thoughts still running upon Deme-
trius's tumult, my Demetrius rushed in through the
vomitory of the theatre, preceded by a tumult of frightened
birds, to pick up an owl which he had destined for my
collection.
A splendid circus or stadium remains tolerably entire,
206
SOUTH OF LYDIA.
and one of those gigantic and nameless piles of buildings.
seen alike at Pergamus and Troy, here and at Tralles; by
some they are called gymnasia, by others temples, and again,
with I think more reason, palaces. They all came with the
Roman conquest, and, as I have said at Pergamus, no one
but a Roman emperor could have conceived such structures.
In Italy they have parallels in Adrian's villa near Tivoli,
and perhaps in the pile upon the Palatine. Many other
walls remain to show the extent of the buildings of the
city, but no inscription or ornament is to be found, cities
having been built out of this quarry of worked marble.
The ruins of the adjoining town, which arose about four
hundred years ago, are entirely composed of materials from
Ephesus, and these old castle and mosque walls have become
in their turn our quarry for relics of antiquity. The few
huts within these last-named ruins, which are perhaps a
mile and a half from Ephesus, still retain the name of the
parent city, Asalook,—a Turkish word, associated with the
same idea as Ephesus, and meaning the City of the Moon.
The ancient wall, carried on the ridge of the mountain to
the south of the city, is a fine specimen of very early
Greek architecture; it has only the horizontal line of joints
regular, the others being irregular as in the Cyclopean:
the doorways are also of the early Græco-Egyptian, as seen
at Assos.
We travelled nearly fifty miles in a south-easterly direc-
tion, through frequent storms of rain, to Idín or Goozel
Hissá, the ancient Tralles, where we arrived on Friday the
5th of May. Of the old town there remains only enough
to show that it occupied the elevation which overlooks the
present city. Upon this are still standing the foundations
of walls, and the ruins of one of those palaces which I
have before mentioned, and whose fine arches are conspi-
cuous for many miles around. This building has evidently
been repaired many times, the stones of the upper part
TRALLES.
207
containing inverted inscriptions and ornaments. Within
the arches, which have been plastered, remain some paint-
ings, with the same design on each, and, within painted
wreaths, inscriptions now quite illegible. If these works
were coeval with the building, assuredly painting did not
flourish in the same age as architecture. This elevated
ground has been laid open in many places, which are
worked as quarries for the modern town; the troughs
and cisterns now in use have all been pedestals, capitals
of columns, or tombs.
The modern town, which is of considerable extent, has
the appearance of a village, from the number of trees grow-
ing among the houses. Bazaars form the streets, which, as
usual, are completely shaded from the sun; but here trees
supply the place of the mats which are used for the purpose
in most towns. The market-day occurred while I was here.
I have in England been at fairs and races, and have wit-
nessed the commemoration days in Paris, and the masque-
rades and carnivals in Catania and Naples; but all fall
short, in gay variety and general beauty of costume, of this
Turkish market. The foliage of the plants and trees grow-
ing in the streets formed a pleasant relief to the dazzling
whiteness of the veils, and the splendid colours of the em-
broidered trowsers, of the multitudes of women attending
the market; light blue worked with silver was very com-
monly seen in the dresses of the peasants, and every turban
had its bunch of roses or other flowers. The noise of voices
was louder than is usual in scenes of the kind; for the
passing of camels and loaded asses through the crowd
called forth continually the warning voice of the driver.
The women had their children tied on their backs, and
these, with the gay colour of their dresses and their heads
ornamented with coins, contributed their part to the
general picturesque effect.
For about forty-five miles up the valley, the country
208
SOUTH OF LYDIA.
varied little in either its geological or botanical features.
The hills on the northern side, which rise at times many
hundred feet, are formed of gravel and sand, slightly held
together by partial drippings through lime, which have pro-
duced a cement; this peculiarity has caused the caverns,
which are seen in numbers, and are said to extend far into
the hills. The strata of this formation are for the most
part perfectly horizontal, and appear to have been left by
an earlier bed of the river. These hills, worn and broken
down by time, are now standing cut into sections, and
sloping in every variety of conical shape to the valley.
The Mæander winds on the other side of the plain, about
six or eight miles from the road.
In the evening of Sunday, the 6th of May, I pitched my
tent at Gooják, a town built like Idín upon the slope of the
range of hills.
On the other side of the valley I had a dis-
tant view of the ruins of the ancient Antiocheia, hanging
over the river Mosynus, and commanding the entrance of
its valley. On the banks of the Mosynus, higher up the
valley, are also the ruins of the city of Aphrodisius.
During the whole day we have had fruit-trees on either
side; and indeed this is the orchard of Asia Minor, whence
the boasted figs and raisins of Smyrna are chiefly obtained.
Among the flowers there was no species to add to my list
except the hollyhock.
209
CHAPTER XI.
PART OF THE WEST OF PHRYGIA.
CAROURA.-VALLEY OF THE LYCUS.-LAODICEIA.-REMAINS.-HIERA-
POLIS.-ITS RUINS.-CURIOUS HOT SPRINGS.-VULTURES.
May 8th.-From Gooják the valley of the Mæander some-
what changes its character, having a more sandy and poorer
soil, without trees, and with few pastures and little culti-
vation. The hills are formed of the sand from the rocks
of micaceous schist, which glitters on the arid and stony
level plain. The river now approaches the northern side
of the valley, and its course is marked by the verdure of the
neighbouring swamps; the stream is deep and rapid, con-
tained in high banks, or sunk in its own channel; its water
is of a red colour, and its size is about that of the Moselle.
At a house at which I stopped I saw a slice of a fish
which is frequently taken in this river; it is without
scales, round in form, and nearly a foot in thickness. I
am told that it is generally taken weighing as much as
one hundred, and sometimes one hundred and fifty pounds
(fifty oakes). It has a large mouth, of the common form,
and unlike that of the sturgeon. Does the conger eel
ever attain this size? This part of the river must, allow-
ing for its windings, be two hundred miles from the sea,
and the water of course is always fresh.
210
WEST OF PHRYGIA.
The sandy hills became now more and more varied in
colour, being by turns red, perfectly white, and brown;
as we advanced, they receded, and the plain stretched into
a comparatively open country. Crossing the valley, we left
Ghera, the ancient Caroura, on the right, and after a long
ride arrived at Caracooe, which stands at the foot of the
hills on the southern side. These furnish a plentiful sup-
ply of water for irrigating the land, which in consequence
is generally under cultivation, although a very light sandy
soil.
A ride of sixteen miles up the valley of the Lycus brought
us to Laodiceia, now called Esky-Hissá. A place of the
same name (which means Old Castle) stood on the hills to
our left, half-way from Idín; it is called in the map Sultan,
and its site is indicated by a burial-ground by the road-side,
filled with old wrought stones. The way to Laodiceia was
over perfectly barren sand-hills, with no trace of vegeta-
tion; the views were limited by the series of rounded hills,
and there was nothing to vary the dreary ride but a flock of
bustards, upon which we came suddenly; we had no ball,
and our shot only tickled them. As we advanced towards
the ruins of the ancient city which stands upon these
sterile hills, we saw hovering over a ravine before us three or
four eagles, and on coming to the spot we disturbed a grand
assemblage of them. I counted nearly a hundred, of which
eight or ten were large and black, the others the smaller
white eagle, or rather vulture, one of which we shot.
Among the tombs of the now deserted city we saw the
object which had attracted this winged party, the bones of
a camel picked nearly clean; the guests, who were now
watching us from the hills around, only waited our depar-
ture to renew the feast: they seemed to be the only living
creatures that ever visit the spot, except the cutters of
gravestones, who have quarries of white marble wherever
the remains of a temple are to be found.
LAODICEIA.
211
All the buildings of this city are constructed of an ex-
tremely coarse conglomerate or petrified mass, and the
cornices and ornamental parts alone are of marble or other
fine stone. I saw many remains of thin slabs of marble
for lining or covering the walls, still partially retaining
the cement which attached them. This town is said to
have been destroyed or injured several times by earth-
quakes; but the hills on which it stands do not show any
signs of volcanic changes; indeed the alluvial strata through-
out the whole of these hills are so horizontal and undis-
turbed that they can scarcely afford any subject of interest.
to the geologist, although combined with rock, and bearing
cities upon them which are amongst the earliest in history.
The change which is taking place, by their being washed
down into the valley, is rapid only when viewed by a geolo-
gist. There is no trace of any volcanic matter in the
stones carried down by the streams, which are all either of
white marble or micaceous schist brought from the high
mountains which peer over these hills on either side of the
broad valley.
At the entrance to the old city stand the massy remains
of a bridge, of which the uncemented stones have been
shaken apart in a most singular manner, to be accounted
for only by attributing it to an earthquake. A paved road
leads to a triple-arched entrance to the city; but in the
immense space which was occupied by it, and is now covered
with its ruins, I could satisfactorily distinguish only a few
of the ancient buildings. There are two theatres cut from
the side of the hill, of which the seats still remain tolerably
perfect, the proscenia being heaps of ruins. The one facing
the east has been extremely handsome, with seats all of
marble, supported by lions' paws. Many of the seats had
initials cut rudely upon them, and in different Greek cha-
racters, probably marking the seats as individual property.
Several temples may be traced by their foundations; but the
WEST OF PHRYGIA.
212
principal remains are the vast silent walls, which must have
been built about the time of the Romans and Christians,
although their purpose is involved in much doubt: for
churches they are inapplicable, and in the places in which I
have before noticed them such remains would be impro-
bable. There is little trace of the architecture and orna-
ment of churches, and but few tombs are to be seen which
appear by their carvings to be of Christian date.
Up the valley towards the south-east stands Mount
Cadmus, and I heard that at its foot, about twelve miles
from Laodiceia, there were considerable ruins, probably the
ancient city of Colossæ. Descending rapidly into the flat and
swampy valley of the Lycus, we crossed in a diagonal line
to the city of Hierapolis, six or seven miles from Laodiceia.
My attention had been attracted at twenty miles' distance
by the singular aspect of its hill, upon which there ap-
peared to be perfectly white streams poured down its sides;
and this peculiarity may have been the attraction which first
led to the city being built there. The waters, which rise in
copious streams from several deep springs among the ruins,
are also to be found in small rivulets for twenty miles around;
they are tepid, and to appearance perfectly pure; indeed I
never saw more transparent water, although I perceived
at a depth of perhaps twenty feet a dark green hue, visible
between the surface and the white marble of the columns
and Corinthian ornaments which lay at the bottom. Gas
continually rises in bubbles, emitting the noxious smell of
hydrogen. This pure and warm water is no sooner exposed
to the air, than it rapidly deposits a pearly white substance
upon the channel through which it flows, and on every
blade of grass in its course; and thus, after filling its bed,
it flows over, leaving a substance which I can only compare
to the brain-coral, a kind of crust or feeble crystallization;
again it is flooded by a fresh stream, and again is formed
another perfectly white coat. The streams of water, thus
HIERAPOLIS.
213
leaving a deposit by which they are choked up, and over
which they again flow, have raised the whole surface of the
ground fifteen or twenty feet, forming masses of this shelly
stone in ridges, which impede the paths, as well as conceal
and render it difficult to trace out the foundations of build-
ings. The deposit has the appearance of a salt, but it is
tasteless, and to the touch is like the shell of the cuttle-fish.
These streams have flowed on for ages, and the hills are
coated over with their deposit of a filmy semitransparent ap-
pearance, looking like half-melted snow suddenly frozen*.
The town stands upon the high cliff, over which these
streams fall in cascades; it commands a fine view of the
valley, and has many of the picturesque advantages which
would be sought in a modern watering-place; the moun-
tains rise at the back, and wooded ravines offer shade
for summer rambles. The ruins are crowded and exten-
sive, and here again are some remains unaccountable from
their immense proportions: in this place they might be
taken to have been baths, but I still incline to the idea
that they were palaces. The theatre has been richly orna-
mented, and many of the cornices so much as to impair
their simplicity and beauty; these, together with most of
the groups of figures, bear traces of an age more devoted
to luxury than pure taste. The inscriptions found here
have been copied by others. The stone used in building is
the conglomerate of the neighbourhood.
A singular effect is seen upon the square pillars of a
colonnade standing on each side of a court-yard of the
palace; they are formed of chips of marble of all sizes,
* Appearances exactly like those here described present themselves at
the baths of San Filippo in Tuscany. The thermal waters of Hiera-
polis are mentioned by numerous ancient authors. It appears that the
ancient inhabitants erected fences around their fields and gardens merely
by leading the hot water in channels so as to deposit the incrustation in
the proper lines of direction.
214
WEST OF PHRYGIA.
held together by a matrix of reddish stone, similar to what
we call scagliola. Time or an earthquake has warped them,
and they now stand in curves, bulging out in various
directions, without any fracture. A kind of tomb is found
here which I have not observed elsewhere, a distinct temple
or house, probably a place of mourning for the friends of
the deceased interred beneath. These tombs are numerous
on each side of the town. Buildings such as these may
have been referred to when, in the time of our Saviour, per-
sons are spoken of as dwelling among the tombs.
Descending from the ruins we proceeded across the
plain towards the valley of the Mæander; and after we had
ridden about twelve miles, night coming on, we pitched our
tent.
I have mentioned that we killed a vulture this morning
at Laodiceia. It was shot at about nine o'clock, and at the
time was washing itself in a stream after its hearty meal
upon the dead camel. It was wounded in the head and
neck, and dropped immediately; but upon taking it up, its
talons closed on the hand of my servant, making him cry
out with pain. He placed it on the ground, and I stood
with my whole weight upon its back, pressing the breast-
bone against the rock, when its eye gradually closed, its hold
relaxed, and to all appearance life became extinct. It was
then packed up in my leather hood, and strapped behind the
saddle. The day was oppressively hot, for we trod upon our
shadows as we rode across the plain. Until this evening
(at eleven o'clock) the vulture remained tightly bound be-
hind the saddle. My servant, on unpacking, threw the bundle
containing it into the tent, while he prepared boiling water
for cleaning and skinning it. Intending to examine this
noble bird more carefully, I untied the package, and what
was my surprise to see it raise its head and fix its keen eye
upon me! I immediately placed my feet upon its back,
holding by the top of the tent, and leaning all my weight
HIERAPOLIS.
215
upon it; but with a desperate struggle it spread out its
wings, which reached across the tent, and by beating them
attempted to throw me off. My shouts soon brought
Demetrius, who at length killed it by blows upon the head
with the butt end of his gun. My ignorance of the extreme
tenacity of life of this bird must exculpate me from the
charge of cruelty.
216
CHAPTER XII.
LYDIA.
ANEGHOOL.-PHILADELPHIA. OPIUM-GATHERING.-SARDIS.-ITS RE-
MAINS.CAVALCADES OF TRAVELLERS.CAMELS.-
-CASSABA. -RE-
TURN TO SMYRNA. RETROSPECT. THE PEOPLE. CLIMATE.·
SCENERY.
p
YESTERDAY, May the 8th, we crossed at a scarcely ford-
able place the river Lycus, which brings down a white milky
water, apparently from a limy country. We now had to
cross the Mæander, near the ruins of the ancient Tripolis,
and gradually ascended a valley or ravine, leaving the post-
town of Bulladán on the left. After passing a picturesque
series of hills and deep rocky beds of small rivers, we en-
tered the valley formed by the Cagamus, in which stands
Philadelphia.
We slept at Aneghoól, distant from Hierapolis about fifty
miles, and this morning proceeded sixteen miles further to
Philadelphia. The soil in the valley is extremely poor, but
by irrigation crops of barley are obtained.
A new feature has appeared in the landscape; the fields
of opium are all in bloom, forming a very beautiful object;
but these flowers are not so gay as our garden poppies.
They are all luxuriant plants of the single poppy, three feet
high, their colours being white, lilac, and purple, in nearly
SARDIS.
217
equal proportions. The business of collecting the opium
has just commenced. The green seed-pod is wounded or
scratched with a delicate point, when the milky sap exudes;
this is afterwards collected by scraping, and a purifying pro-
cess is all that is then required to produce the opium fit
for the market. The work is chiefly done by women, a
delicate hand being required throughout the process; and
as the whole harvest may be destroyed by a shower, the crop
is a precarious one. The entire produce is monopolized by
the Government at a fixed price, and the sale of opium is not
allowed in any part of the country.
Of the ancient city of Philadelphia but little remains;
its walls are still standing, inclosing several hills, upon
the sides of which stood the town, but they are fallen
into ruins. The walls are of unhewn stone, massed and
cemented together with fragments of old buildings; some
immense remains of buildings, huge square stone pillars,
supporting brick arches, are also standing, and are called
the ruins of the Christian church. All the remains which
have been pointed out to me as ruins of Christian churches
appear to have been vast temples, perhaps erected by im-
perial command, and dedicated to nominal Christianity, but
showing, in the niches and brackets for statues and archi-
tectural ornaments, traces of heathen superstition.
Descending the valley, which widened as it joined that of
the Hermus, after a ride of thirty-six miles we arrived at
Sart, the ancient Sardis, the last of the Seven Churches that
I had yet to see. Its situation is very beautiful, but the
country over which it looks is now almost deserted, and the
valley is become a swamp. Its little rivers of clear water,
after turning a mill or two, serve only to flood instead of
draining and beautifying the country. On the principal of
these streams, the Pactolus, at the distance of a mile from
the city, stand the remains of a colossal temple, the pro-
portions of which resemble those of Agrigentum; but it
L
218
LYDIA.
is
very doubtful if this was ever completed, for though two
columns of the Ionic order remain standing, and the ruins
of four others, these are the only parts left to record the
vastness of such a fallen temple; the columns also are pre-
pared for fluting, but have never been cut; and the orna-
ments of the capitals differ from each other, and appear not
wholly finished. Do these unfinished fragments indicate
the period when Pagan art expired before Christianity?
The remains of this city vary much in date; the early part,
containing a theatre, stadium, and temples, may be readily
traced, but the masses of wall composing the rest of the
city speak with certainty only of its extent; one, the
largest of these piles of buildings, must have been a palace,
consisting of distinct, long rooms with circular ends. The
earth which has fallen from the crumbling hills above has
buried great part of the buildings of the city. Two or
three small bridges, from their architecture, appear to be of
an early date.
Among the ruins is seen the beautiful arum, or snake
plant, as this species is here called, from the appearance
of its stem: it grows to an enormous size; there is one
near the spot where I am now standing eight feet high.
No description or even painting can represent the ex-
ceedingly velvet-like richness of the crimson or damson
colour of the calyx and petal; it is one of the most splen-
did of plants. The scent is far from agreeable, filling the
air with the smell of rats. While standing perfectly still,
sketching this plant, I have been amused by watching the
tortoises basking by the water-side; seven or eight little ones
have been playing upon the back of their mother, crawl-
ing up and down, and fighting for the most elevated part
of her shell; but upon my making the slightest movement,
they scampered down the bank and dived into their secure
retreat.
Opposite to the town, and at the distance of three or four
SARDIS TO SMYRNA.
219
miles across the valley and river, are curious mounds of
earth which are said to be the tombs of the kings of Lydia,
and near them is the lake of Gygæus. These mounds are in
great numbers the whole length of this valley, and many
are of stratified earth, whence it must be very doubtful if
they be tumuli. I have taken drawings of several of them.
Twenty-eight miles further down the same valley is the
modern town of Cassabá, which lies on the regular caravan
route between the interior of the country and Smyrna.
On overtaking the long cavalcades of a governor or wealthy
person, which generally consist of thirty or forty fine horses
richly caparisoned, my servant always rode forward to ask
permission to be allowed to pass; this being granted, I
proceeded, receiving as I passed a most kind but dignified
salutation of welcome as a stranger.
It is amusing to see this moving establishment of luxuries,
-one horse loaded with long pipe-cases, another with car-
pets and rugs; and the wife or children follow in an equi-
page, which I must describe by a sketch.

!!
L
1.
220
LYDIA.
The animal, which is commonly a mule, is led: it carries
two panniers, in which are the passengers, inclosed in a tent
of white calico, fringed and ornamented with red, upon poles.
fixed to the panniers; there are small eye-holes behind and
in front, which I observed were much used; a light ladder,
used for mounting and dismounting, is suspended from one
of the poles. These conveyances give a peculiar effect to
the cavalcade, which is in keeping with the costume of the
multitude of servants in attendance.
Strings of camels are continually passing, each comprising
about forty-five, and headed by a man upon an ass who leads
the first, the others being mostly connected by slight cords.
It is a beautiful sight to see the perfect training and docility
of these animals. The caravans, as the weather is becoming
warmer, are beginning to travel by night, generally halting
at about ten or eleven o'clock in the morning. The care of
the camels seems to be very much left to the children. I
have just watched a string of them stopping on an open
plain: a child twitched the cord suspended from the head of
the first; a loud gurgling growl indicated the pleasure of the
camel as it awkwardly knelt down, and the child, who could
just reach its back, unlinked the hooks which suspended from
cither side the bales of cotton; another child came with a
bowl of water and sponge, and was welcomed by a louder
roar of pleasure as it washed the mouth and nostrils of the
animal. This grateful office ended, the liberated camel wan-
dered off to the thicket, to browse during the day; and this
was done to each of the forty-five, which all unbidden had
knelt down precisely as the one I have described, forming a
circle which continued marked during the day by the bales
of goods lying at regular distances. On a given signal in
the afternoon, at about three o'clock, every camel resumed
its own place, and knelt between its bales, which were again
attached, and the caravan proceeded on its tardy course.
am not surprised at finding the strong attachment of these
I
SMYRNA.
221
animals to the children; for I have often seen three or four
of them, when young, lying with their heads inside a tent in
the midst of the sleeping children, while their long bodies
remained outside.
From Cassabá a ride of forty-eight miles through a beau-
tifully varied and picturesque country brought us again to
Smyrna, called by the Turks Ismeér, on the evening of Satur-
day, the 12th of May.
SMYRNA, Sunday morning, May 13th.-I quite enjoy to be
again sitting on a chair, with a table before me, and shall
spend this day of rest in thinking over the interest and plea-
sure of the past three months. My first feeling on making
the retrospect cannot but be gratitude that I have escaped
even the slightest accident, on a journey of three thousand
miles, through a country little travelled, and in which there
are neither carriages nor roads.
How soon is a new habit acquired! I have just been ob-
serving a party of Europeans on their way to church; the
men tightly swathed in their clothes, the ladies with their
stiffened silk, bound down in plaits, huge bonnets, artificial
flowers placed erect, and discordant colours, seemed to me
deformities compared with the natural, easy, and graceful
costume to which three months' intimacy has attached me.
How different are now my feelings towards the Turks,
from those uncharitable prejudices with which I looked upon
them on my first arrival at this place! To their manners,
habits, and character, equally as to their costume, I am be-
come not only reconciled, but sincerely attached; for I have
found truth, honesty, and kindness, the most estimable and
amiable qualities, in a people among whom I so little looked
for them.
The pervading character of this people is their entire devo-
222
LYDIA.
tion to their religion. It forms the civil as well as moral
law; and, instead of being interrupted by worldly business
and interests, is indissolubly associated with the occupations
of every hour of the day, and every action of the life. Prayer
is with them universal, and peculiar to no place,-sought
equally in the field and chamber as in the mosque. Every
one pursues his own devotions, independently of a priest-
hood (which here does not exist), with perfect simplicity, and
without ostentation. The character, habits, customs, man-
ners, health, and whole life of the people appear formed by
their religion. I have not read the Koran, and my judge-
ment of the religion is therefore formed from its professors,
who appear indeed to be not mere professors. That the reli-
gion regulates all civil relations and duties, I have been con-
stantly made aware by the replies to my questions, why this
thing or that thing was done; the invariable answer being,
that their religion commanded it. The law and the religion
being one, are taught together to the children from their in-
fancy ;
and on any breach of the duties thus inculcated, the
Sultan's power to punish is absolute, and its exercise sure.
The feature in the character of the people which first pre-
sents itself to the stranger and sojourner among them, is
hospitality. They are indeed given to hospitality. It was
proffered to me by all ranks,—from the Pasha to the peasant
in his tent among the mountains,—and was tendered as a
thing of course, without the idea of any return being made.
No question was asked; distinction of nation or religion, of
rich and poor, was not thought of; but "feed the stranger"
was the universal law.
Their honesty next strikes the traveller. It was my con-
stant habit to leave on the outside of my tent the saddles,
bridles, cooking apparatus, and everything not required
within, where I and my servant slept without the least fear
of losing anything, although persons were passing by and
gratifying their curiosity by examining my property. I
SMYRNA.
223
never lost even a piece of string. On noticing this to my
servant, a Greek, he excused the honesty of the Turks, by
saying that their religion did not allow them to steal. There
is sufficient temptation to offend, in the dresses commonly
worn by the women and children, richly embroidered with
the current gold coin of the country; but the law, “Thou
shalt not steal," seems to receive from them implicit and
universal obedience.
Truth, the twin sister of honesty, is equally conspicuous
in them; and here again the Greek apologizes for them,—
"The Mahometan dares not lie; his religion forbids it.”
The national custom, which makes it the privilege of the
son to do the offices of an attendant to his father, instils into
the character of the people the duty of honouring parents.
In every relation and circumstance in which I saw them, in
their families and among strangers, love and kindness to one
another seemed to prevail: sincerity banishes suspicion, and
honesty and candour beget openness in all their dealings.
In obedience to their religion, which, like the Jewish law,
forbids taking interest for money, they abstain from carry-
ing on many lucrative trades connected with the lending of
money. Hence other nations, generally the Armenians, act
as their bankers.
From their religious devotion they derive a submission to
the Divine Will so entire, that it has drawn upon them the
misrepresentation of being Fatalists. To prevent evil they
are as earnest as others: I have seen them using all their
efforts to extinguish fires; and have often been solicited by
them for medicine, and they eagerly receive advice to check
illness; but if the fire cannot be arrested, they submit, and
say, "God is great!" and if the malady terminate in death,
though of a child or parent, the nervous eye alone shows
the working of the heart, and the body is committed to the
grave with the submissive reflection, "God is great and
merciful!"
224
LYDIA.
The permission given by the Mahometan law to poly-
gamy is one of the serious charges brought against the
moral character of its professors. But though the law
allows several wives, it is a liberty of which the people
seldom take advantage. I have seen in thousands of in-
stances the Turk in his tent, with his one wife, appearing
as constant in his attachment to her as a peasant of a Chris-
tian country. It is in the palaces of the rich and great
alone that, in the midst of luxury and state, many wives are
assembled.
Before I visited this people I fancied their character was
cruel; but so far from finding proofs of this, I have noticed
that their treatment of the brute creation, as well as of one
another, is peculiarly the reverse. Instruments of punish-
ment for beasts of burden are scarcely known: their only
influence over the camel is obtained by kindness and re-
wards, and its obedience is most complete. The absence
of fear in all birds and beasts is very striking to an Euro-
pean, and is alone sufficient to exculpate the Turks from
this charge.
-
To the abstinence of this people from wine, the peculiar
law of Mahomet, is perhaps to be attributed very much of
their moral as well as physical health. The stream of in-
temperance, which would undermine the pure principles of
conduct above adverted to, is thus totally arrested. The
physical result of this law is strikingly manifest in the
absence of cripples, and the general exemption of the
Turks from illness; toothache being almost the only ill, to
which they are often subject. One of the moral benefits of
temperance may be traced in the exemption of the people
from abject poverty. I have seen no beggars except the
blind, and few persons looking very poor. The people's
wants, which are few, are generally well supplied; and in
every tent there is a meal for the stranger, whatever be his
condition. I have never seen a Turk under the influence of
SMYRNA.
225
opium; and I believe that the use of this stimulant is con-
fined to the licentious inhabitants of the capital.
Does not Christian Europe stand rebuked before these
faithful followers of the false Prophet? Were we as de-
voted to our religion as the Mahometans are to theirs, what
a heaven upon earth would our lands be! The supersti-
tions, and the total want of morality in the professors of
the Greek Church, may well deter the Turks from seeking
to change their faith. The disciples of the Greek Church
frequently become followers of the Prophet, when it will
forward their commercial or political success; but there is
scarcely ever an instance of the conversion of a Turk to
what is called Christianity. At Constantinople I attended
the Church of England service, which was admirably per-
formed by an English Missionary. The clergyman's family,
and one Armenian, with myself, formed the whole congre-
gation.
My intimacy with the character of the Turks, which had
led me to think so highly of their moral excellence, has not
given me the same favourable impression of the development
of their mental powers. Their refinement is of the manners
and affections; there is little cultivation or activity of mind
among them. Their personal cleanliness, the richness and
taste of their costume, and the natural delicacy of all their
customs are very remarkable. In society they are always
perfectly at their ease; and among the peasantry I noticed
none of the sheepishness so often exhibited by rustics in the
presence of superiors.
Their modes of expression are very figurative. When
their conversation was translated to me by my interpreter,
I could have fancied myself listening to the "Arabian
Nights," the language was so poetic, and so often enriched
with proverbs and peculiar forms of expression. I will in-
stance one, of which I noticed the frequent use, and which
is very characteristic of this people. On parting with a
-
L 3
226
LYDIA.
Turk, to whom by several days' companionship and ex-
change of kindness I had become attached, the wish which
I should express at parting would be, that we might meet
again; he would say, Mountains never meet, but men
may!" I do not regret not having studied the language,
for I experienced no inconvenience in conversing through
my dragoman. The literal translation of an interpreter,
familiar with the expressions of the country and the forms.
of etiquette of the people, is, I think, the best mode of
attaining a ready intercourse with them. The Mahometan
never speaks a foreign language, and therefore does not ex-
pect that a stranger should do so.
Having noted my observations on the manners and cha-
racter of the people, it now only remains for me to put down
the remarks which present themselves to my memory, on
the climate of the country and the features of the scenery
of its several districts.
As I selected the coolest season for my tour, any remarks
that I make on the climate must in part be derived from
other sources than my personal experience. Nor can they
at once apply to the whole of the country, as the various
elevations present winter and ripening summer within one
day's journey.
If a line be drawn upon the map to include the elevated
table-land of the interior, and the field of burnt or volcanic
production, it will precisely trace the boundaries of the ancient
Phrygia on the north, the west, and the south; following
even the singular forms in which it projects into the districts
of Caria, Lycia, and Pamphylia. This circumstance leads
me to imagine that the name of Phrygia may have been
connected with the climate and nature of the soil. The
cold from the great elevation is so severe, that no plants are
to be seen but such as are found in the Highlands of Scot-
SMYRNA.
227
land, where they suffer less from severity of climate than
here. The summer in this high land must be of very short
duration, for the corn was not sown in April, and is fre-
quently gathered amid the snow in October.
On descending from this elevated country, every diversity
of climate is met with, till the traveller reaches the pro-
ductive valleys of the rivers and the warmer lands on the
coast. But at the present season (the month of May),
at Sardis, Cassabá, and here (Smyrna), the women still
retain their fur-lined jackets, and the merchants their
fur-cloaks. During the summer the heat becomes intense
as the morning advances, but before noon a land breeze is
drawn down from the cold mountain country, which brings
a refreshing coolness, with the shade of clouds, and not
unfrequently flying showers. In the early part of the
evening the heat again becomes oppressive; the dews are
very heavy.
To the intense cold of the winter it must be attributed,
that neither the aloe nor the cactus, nor any succulent plant,
is to be seen in the country; the frosts would destroy
them. The orange and lemon trees are with difficulty pre-
served in the sheltered valleys; the olive seldom flourishes in
a similar situation; and they are all far inferior in growth
to those of Sicily, Calabria, or Greece. The country is
supplied with oranges and many other fruits from the
island of Crete. The extremes of the seasons are further
shown by the migration in the animal kingdom, which
takes place to a great degree.
The remarks contained in this Journal upon the geo-
logical character of each district may have given some
idea of its superficial appearance, but I will attempt a
general sketch of the country for the lover of the pic-
turesque. The scenery of Lydia and Mysia is varied and
beautiful, its hills being well wooded, with splendid forest-
trees. In the forms of the mountains there is more of beauty
228
LYDIA.
than grandeur; and the peculiar feature is the great con-
trast or division between the hills and valleys, the latter
being so level as to appear formed by lakes. In Bithynia
the scenery is of a bolder character; its fine mountain range
of Olympus giving it a resemblance to Switzerland; its
valleys are also rich, with luxuriant woods. The flat-topped
hills and immense table-lands of Phrygia, from their great
elevation, often swampy and seldom bearing a tree, present
more of the wild and dreary than of the picturesque.
Pisidia, including the Taurus range, again partakes with
Bithynia of the Alpine character, but the woods in this dis-
trict are not so finely grown. The extreme beauty of Pam-
phylia is derived more from distant effects than near views.
The limestone mountains which form the distant horizon
shoot their jagged peaks of silvery rock, or capped with
snow, against the clear sky, while their bases are washed
by the blue ocean, which they inclose in their wide-stretched
arms. Lycia is more mountainous, and resembles, but far
exceeds in the boldness of its cliffs and the richness of its
vegetation, the scenery of Parnassus. Its valleys, and par-
ticularly that of the Xanthus, are of peculiar beauty. Caria
abounds in scenery of the most picturesque kind, its coast.
being broken into bold headlands, whose ranges, continued
into the sea, rise in rocky islands. The south-east of Lydia
is less beautiful, and much resembles Sicily or Calabria;
but on approaching Smyrna this district has valleys equal
to those near Salerno or Naples. The artist visiting Asia
Minor would be richly rewarded.

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36
John årrowsmith.
AN ACCOUNT
OF
DISCOVERIES IN LYCIA,
BEING
A JOURNAL KEPT DURING
A SECOND EXCURSION IN ASIA MINOR,
IN 1840.
A
JOURNAL.
CHAPTER XIII.
SMYRNA.--CLIMATE.-BAZAARS.-HORSES.-PROVISIONS.—BALL.-ROAD
TO THERA, THE ANCIENT CAYSTRUS.-PASSAGE OF THE MOUNTAINS
TO IDIN, THE ANCIENT TRALLES.-TAHIR PASHA.-HIS MUSEUM.—
INSCRIPTIONS.-VALLEY OF THE MEANDER.-SULTAN HISSA.—SOL-
DIERS. ANTIOCHEIA.-THE VALLEY OF THE MOSYNUS.-KARASoo.
-TO YEERAH, THE ANCIENT APHRODISIAS.
SMYRNA, February 14th, 1840.—When the Turkish peasant
said, as I left this country a year and a half ago, "Moun-
tains never meet, but men may," he expressed an idea of our
again meeting, stronger than I entertained of renewing my
visit to Asia Minor. Nothing but an earnest desire of know-
ing more of the highly interesting monuments found in this
country, and of the natural features peculiar to it, together
with the total absence of any published accounts whence I
could obtain such information, would have induced me to
wander thus far from the society of friends I so much value,
and from the description of civilization to which an Euro-
pean is habituated. I have just left Rome, where, in visiting
its museums, which mark the ebbing and flowing of art from
the earliest ages, I have wondered at the incomparable dis-
tance at which the works of the ancient Greeks stand, raised
like the Acropolis of their cities above the productions of
all succeeding ages. How changed is Greece now! for I
232
LYDIA.
look upon this country in its earliest ages as a part of Greece
-the present inhabitants knowing nothing of its history,
and being entirely ignorant of the arts which distinguished
its former people from the rest of the world.
In this now almost unknown part of ancient Greece, three
of the seven Wise Men, in the early history of the world, had
their birth*. Poetry, History, Fable, and Philosophy, had
each their fathers in this country†. Among the wonders of
the world it boasted its Temple at Ephesus, its Mausoleum
in Caria, and its Colossus at Rhodes. The finest work of
art, the celebrated Venus, is attributed to this people. The
most wealthy of kingst, and the greatest of armies §, arose
in this region, and their tumuli remain still undisturbed ||.
The sites of its cities are unknown to us; and even the lan-
guage of a considerable portion, abounding with inscriptions,
has hitherto almost escaped the observation of the philo-
logists of Europe. Impressed with this feeling, and at-
tracted by the natural beauties of the country, as well as by
the hospitality of its inhabitants, I have returned hither to
accumulate information and materials for future study.
Smyrna is at this season intensely cold, the distant hills
are covered with snow, the wind blows keenly from the
north-east, and the pools in the town are frozen over. Eng-
lish coal, which is amply supplied for the numerous steam-
vessels, affords the comfort of a fire, as welcome here as on
the coldest of our winter days in England.
February 26th.-This morning we had intended to quit
Smyrna for the interior, but could not obtain horses; they
are promised us for tomorrow morning by six o'clock. The
Bazaars are to me always a pleasing lounge; the variety of
trades, the novelty of the articles for sale, the busy scene
among the camels and porters, contrasted with the com
* Thales, Bias, and Pittacus.
+ Homer, Herodotus, Æsop, and Pythagoras.
§ Xerxes' expedition.
+ Cræsus.
|| Of Alyattes at Sardis.
SMYRNA.
233
posure of the shopkeeper, who, with his luxurious pipe in
his hand, awaits patiently on his cushioned couch the call
of a chance customer, offer ceaseless novelty to an European.
By the assistance of my companion, Mr. Scharf, I hope to
possess many sketches, to call to mind these scenes; but the
harmonious cries of the traders, and the sonorous bells of
the passing camels, can be retained only in the memory.
The shops for the sale of eatables are very numerous, and
mostly for dried fruits and sweetmeats. There are also many
for the favourite food of the Turks, which is principally com-
posed from the produce of the dairy. Among the most novel
to me was a dish called Mohalahbee, a kind of blancmange,
which is served in white plates, sifted over with sugar and
sprinkled with rose-water; this hasty-pudding-like substance
is made of rice-flour boiled in milk; it is semi-transparent,
and in consistency like jelly. Saloop is also much sold about
the streets, as well as kymac, youghoort, and all kinds of
curd, cream and milk, flavoured with scents of various kinds.
The total absence of shops for the sale of stimulants, of spi-
rituous or fermented liquors, still continues a striking feature
to an European.
Thursday, February 27th.-No horses came this morning as
promised, and we waited until four in the afternoon before we
could be assured of even obtaining them for tomorrow morn-
ing: these are to be hired horses, at the rate of one dollar
(4s. 4d.) a day, and half a dollar for their return; even more
than this was expected, and we have had to collect them from
various small proprietors. We should not be able to obtain
them from the Post, for which we are prepared with all the
powers of a firman from Constantinople, for four days, several
Governors being now detained awaiting the return of horses
from other expeditions. The greatest inconvenience is now
felt from the want of horses in Smyrna, where the supply is
very limited, although a few years ago the town abounded with
them; but the establishment of steam-vessels has superseded
234
LYDIA.
the more than daily lines of Tartars hence to Constantinople.
Scarcely any horses are now kept for the service of the post,
the ordinary demand being very trifling.
Another great pecuniary inconvenience has arisen since I
was last here, but it will probably be temporary. Smyrna is
now the market for the combined fleets of several nations,
stationed in her gulph; at Vourlah are five English ships of
war, and one here: the French have six, and the Austrians
three, lying in front of the town of Smyrna; these bring an
additional population of many thousand consumers. Meat,
poultry, eggs, game, butter, and indeed all provisions, are
four and five times the price they were two years ago. The
charges at the inns are more than doubled, as well as the
hire of horses for riding about the neighbourhood, in conse-
quence of the demand occasioned by the officers of the navy.
The appearance, and I fear the morals, of the "Frank town"
-the designation of the quarter near the sea, which is occu-
pied by Franks of all nations—are also much changed by the
immense number of French sailors, who seem to be allowed
to spend their days on shore: hundreds are each evening
reeling into their crowded boats, and many, too much intoxi-
cated to walk, are put on board by their less drunken mates.
This irregularity has caused the total absence of our sailors
from Smyrna; for a few weeks ago they resented an affront
received from some French sailors, and, although double
their own number, treated them so severely, that it was
thought better they should not come again in contact while
such disorder prevailed among the sailors of that nation. The
Austrian seamen appear to be under far better discipline.
On Tuesday last, Prince Frederick of Austria gave the
people of Smyrna a ball at their Casino, which was enlarged
for the occasion by the erection of temporary rooms, formed
of sails and flags, upon the terraces of the building. Every-
thing was done by the Prince most handsomely and liberally,
but the Smyrnese want of taste and style was very apparent.
SMYRNA.
235
The great redeeming feature was the elegance and splen-
dour of the costumes of the ladies, who generally appeared
in the Greek dress, which does not seem overloaded by the
costly addition of jewels and embroidery; the wearers are
also particularly good-looking. Among the Frank popula-
tion, a study of dress is on all occasions a marked character-
istic of the females of Smyrna. This must be observed by
every passer through their streets: at every window and
doorway is seen, at all hours of the day, a fully-dressed head,
ornamented with flowers or jewels.
Determined not to delay the commencement of our expe-
dition another day, I made arrangements for the men and
eight horses to join us in the morning at Boojah, a village
composed of houses of the Frank merchants, to which we
walked, passing the Caravan Bridge at four o'clock on Thurs-
day the 27th of February. Instead of turning to the south-
east or to the right hand, soon after crossing the bridge, we
continued on the road which led eastward, lengthening our
walk by passing through Cooklajah and over the mountain to
Boojah, and enjoying the splendour of the view of Smyrna and
its lovely bay, carried into the mountains by the most luxu-
riant valleys. It was seven o'clock, and quite dark, before
we arrived at the small inn recently opened by our landlord
of the Navy Hotel at Smyrna.
Friday, February 28th.-Our horses arrived at eight
o'clock, and we started, returning nearly half the way to
Smyrna, to join the route leading up the valley toward the
south-east, the same road as that to Ephesus. On our right
lay the pretty village of Sideecooe, on our left that of Boojah:
for many miles the country is scantily cultivated with mul-
berry-trees, but much of the land is capable of far greater
produce; the alluvial soil of the valley is deep, and of a
nature to grow excellent corn. The spring had scarcely as
yet unfolded a single leaf; only a few anemones of various
colours sparkled among the bushes, and one or two creeping
236
LYDIA.
plants* were blossoming on the winterly stems of the wild
pear-tree.
By half-past twelve we had ridden six post hours, or about
twenty-three miles, and arrived at Triandeer, a few huts on
the bank of a river, which we had previously crossed about
six miles from this place. We here learned that our bag-
gage, which had kept the direct road from Smyrna, and which
we fancied was before us, had not yet passed. We there-
fore waited an hour at the café, which, with an adjoining hut,
frequently serves as a halting-place on the first day's jour
ney towards Idin. Biendeer, the place of our destination for
the evening, was still distant seven hours. About five miles
on the way, the track lay through several Turkish burial-
grounds, each containing remains of ancient sculptured mar-
bles-columns, cornices, and squared stones. One of these,
bearing an inscriptiont, could not have been moved far
from its original site. Its first intention may have been to
commemorate the course of a great conqueror; at present
it marks the grave of some unknown Yourook, or herdsman,
whose race occupy the black goats-hair tents scattered over
the widely extended plains. The country for several hours
before us was perfectly level, forming as it were an immense
lake, bounded on the south by the long range of Mount
Messogis, whose promontory (the ancient Trogilium), with
its detached island of Samos, is concealed by the ranges of
intervening hills rising behind the ancient Colophon and
Teos in the west. To the east the range of Mount Tmolus
rises, with its barren crags capped with snow. Perhaps no
valley in the world would produce more than this if well
cultivated. The quantity of olives grown on the sloping
base of the mountains is very great, but the rich plains
are abandoned to the sheep or goats, and in the more swampy
parts the buffalo is seen wallowing in the marshes.
* Clematis cirrhosa (Evergreen Virgin's Bower).
+ Translated—"Marcus Antonius Nicephoros."
CAYSTRTS.
237
Before eight o'clock, after a ride of nearly fifty miles upon
the same horses, we arrived at Biendeer, a town which seems
only occupied in crushing the produce of the surrounding
forest of olive-trees. The oil from this district ranks high
in the Smyrna market; and this, as well as other articles of
merchandize sold there, has within the last three years risen
to four times the price formerly paid.
February 29th.-The situation of Biendeer, a large Turk-
ish village with four minaretted mosques, is very beautiful,
commanding a view of the wonderfully fine valley in which
we travelled yesterday, and across which our road continues
to-day, to the large town of Thera, about eleven miles dis-
tant, which is distinctly visible to the S.S.E. on the steep
side of the Messogis mountain.
Saturday Evening.—I have just returned to my room in
the picturesque Greek khan at Thera. What a country we
have passed through to-day!—teeming with produce, and
promising a still greater abundance to more active cultiva-
tion. For three or four miles before we crossed the river
Caystrus, the plains were covered with the stems of last
year's cotton plants, and the rich soil is again yielding to
agricultural implements* of the same form as those which
tilled it more than two thousand years ago, while the seeds
of another crop are scattered over it. Crossing the very
considerable river by a newly built bridge, the land gradu-
ally rises, and is well cultivated with corn; and ascending
still further up a slight range of rocky mounds, we found
them covered with vines and in high cultivation. These
continued, as we travelled over this undulating ground,
until we arrived in front of the long and beautifully situated
town of Thera, the minarets of whose mosques (of which we
counted twenty-eight) are scattered over a range of nearly
two miles.
This town, which occupies the site of the ancient Caystrus,
is built on so steep an acclivity, that almost every house is
* See Journal of 1838, p. 52.
238
LYDIA.
C
visible, peering above its neighbour's roof; the cypress and
plane, of splendid growth, enrich the whole extent of the
place. In the streets, as is often the case in Turkish towns,
are rapid streams of water, up which we rode, and crossed
several well-stored bazaars. The most striking articles ex-
posed for sale were the largest grapes I ever saw; these are
grown in the neighbourhood in great quantities, for the
making of raisins, which, from being sent to the port of
Smyrna, acquire the name well known in our shops of
Smyrna raisins: each grape is as large as a nutmeg, and on
sending a man with a piaster and a half (not quite 3½d.), to
purchase some for us, he returned with two okes and a half-
about seven pounds weight. Each bunch is plaited with a
cord of rushes, and in the manufacture of raisins these
strings of fruit are dipped into boiling water several times,
and then hung up in cool cellars for three months; when
taken down they are fit for the market.
Our whole route from Smyrna has been crossing or fol-
lowing valleys; no hill, excepting a slight rise out of the
town of Smyrna, has interrupted our course. In this tract
the geologist finds little to interest him; the soil is alluvial,
and generally mixed with stones, the debris of the neigh-
bouring mountains, which vary from the simple marble
limestone to the tortuous slaty stone, shivered by volcanic
heat, and glittering with schisty micaceous particles. The
castle hill, near Smyrna, is an igneous rock of spurious
granite; several tracks of bare rock on the valley are com-
posed of massed pebbles or pudding-stone, probably of
recent formation. The soil is generally light, but near the
immediate valley of the Caystrus it is a simple sand, of con-
siderable depth, with scarcely a pebble. Thera stands on a
range of mountain limestone, much baked and distorted
by volcanic powers, and frequently veined with a crystallized
white marble or quartz-like substance, often tinged with
ferruginous colouring. I have added several plants to my
collection, but none strike me as peculiar to this district.
-
CAYSTRUS.
239
I see the black Iris in the turbans and hands of the peasants,
but have not yet gathered it myself; the Christ's-thorn and
a kind of broom form the bushy tufts of the country.
On Sunday, the 1st of March, we started at nine o'clock
for Idin; our cavalcade consisted of two Zoorigees, men
who have the charge of the horses and the three loads of
baggage. I followed, with my friends Mr. Hesketh and
Mr. Scharf, attended by Pagniotti Mania, as servant and
dragoman; and in the rear was a Kezann, or officer of the
police, well mounted and superbly armed. This addition
to our train was insisted upon by the Governor as a
guard of honour: I wished to decline it as unnecessary,
but he said that the roads were in a dangerous state, (mean-
ing from the late rains, I believe,) and that we had better
have assistance in case of need. Thus, with ten horses, we
commenced our route up the narrow streets, which are so
steep that many literally rise in steps. On arriving a little
above the town we paused, as such trains are often obliged
to do, to re-arrange the baggage.
From this point we had a fine view of this curiously situated
and extensive city; its position is highly picturesque, and re-
sembles the other ancient sites now occupied by the modern
towns of Manser and Kootaya; they all face the north.
Although this is doubtless the site of Caystrus, scarcely a
trace of the ancient city is to be found; a few columns and
capitals of white marble, built into the walls, are all that
remain to tell of the former important city. An ascent
through woods of olive-trees showed another abundant
source of wealth to this people, so highly favoured by nature.
Our route lay directly to the south, and we breasted the
steep ascent most boldly. I have never, excepting on this
same range, in the pass from the ancient Priene over the
Trogilium promontory, ascended so steep a track; in many
instances we were obliged to tack at every twenty yards,
doubling our own course; affording those in the rear a col-
240
LYDIA.
lective view of our diversified cavalcade, all in slow motion,
and shifting as the objects in a kaleidescope. One of our
party, dismounting to collect some plants, had left his horse
to keep its place in the train; but cutting across an angle in
the road, it thrust itself between the baggage-horses, which
were connected by cords: this checked them, and as the
narrow grip worn in the rock was scarcely wide enough for
their feet to pass each other, they all stumbled, and fell in
confusion. My experience told me that our progress was
stayed for fully an hour. Our Turk Kezann was also aware
of this, for he immediately dismounted, and, sitting on the
rock, prepared his pipe for an hour's repose and meditation
on the interruption. The poor animals were unloaded, and
with difficulty lifted up; a few cuts, and slight exhaustion
from struggling, were all the ill effects beside the delay.
During our detention we were passed by a Turkish family
travelling towards Idin: the female of the party afforded
the annexed subject for the pencil.

WAVAA
TRALLES.
241
Two hours of uninterrupted ascent brought us to the
summit of this splendid range of mountains. Turning to
the north-west, to review our route, we saw the hills of
Smyrna over the uninterrupted level of the valleys we had
crossed. On our right lay the fine range of Mount Tmolus,
partially concealing Mount Sipylus at its western extremity,
and between these ranges lay Sardis and Philadelphia. On
our left rose the high mountains at the back of Colophon
and Teos, and still nearer were the hills concealing the
ancient and renowned city of Ephesus. Immediately below
lay the productive valley down which winds the river
Caystrus, circling the hills and finding its way to the sea in
front of Ephesus. Icicles were around us, and snow covered
the higher peaks on either side of our pass. The mountain
is composed entirely of a slaty schist, veined with a quartz-
like substance, at times almost of an agaty semi-transparent
stone, the whole much contorted and shivered with volcanic
heat.
Two hours of rapid descent brought us within sight of a
point that interested me highly. We were travelling along
ridges of mountains so perfectly hog-backed, that a stone
dropped from either hand would have rolled into different
valleys; from these abrupt elevations the whole nature of
the country was visible. On the soil which clothed the hills
upon which we stood, and which we had traversed, not a
green leaf was seen, unless olives may be called green; the
chestnut and dwarf-oak trees were brown with the dead
leaves of last year; all others were grey with the naked
branches of winter. About two miles before us appeared
a distinct line marked with a slight valley, cut by the in-
creasing stream from the mountains, beyond which all was
green; and the red, broken and rotten-looking cliffs, seen
through the woods of fir-trees, at once reminded me of the
peculiarity I had noticed in the hills lining and flanking
the mountains on the northern side of the valley of the
M
242
LYDIA.
Mæander. I now discovered that this mass of deposited
gravel and sand formed a belt of at least ten miles in width.
As we approached, we saw that it had other peculiarities,
of being cavernous, and varying in its colours and com-
ponent parts.
Continuing our passage of the mountain towards the
south, we arrived at a comparatively level road, which we
followed eastward to the town of Idin. The whole distance
from Thera can only be reckoned by time, and the journey
took us eight hours, two hours of ascent and six hours of
descent, and this necessarily at a very slow pace. The geo-
logical peculiarities did not engage my attention sufficiently
to prevent my admiration of the splendid scenery, which we
should have enjoyed more had daylight continued longer;
but evening closed upon us before we arrived at Idin, at
seven o'clock. I today recognized the clear and sonorous
chirp of the Bee-eater hovering over the fir-trees, and the
sweet song of the Bunting*; several of the small white vul-
tures were also soaring high above our heads.
March 2nd.-Idin is at present like a large builder's
yard; almost the whole of the bazaars are rebuilding, and
scarcely a street is passable. I have spoken in my former
Journal of the town; it has lost much of its beauty by the
difference of season, as the numerous trees in the streets
are now without their leaves. I have seen more of its
antiquities, which chiefly consist of the various marbles and
coins found daily upon the hill overhanging the present
town, and upon which stood the ancient Tralles; the most
conspicuous building that now remains is the ruin of the
Palæstra or Gymnasium. I have before noticed this as
having materials of much older buildings worked up in its
formation, several of which have inscriptions in the Greek
language. This morning, with the aid of a telescope and
* Emberiza melanocephala (Black-headed Bunting).
TRALLES.
243
with considerable difficulty, I copied one long inscription
which is high up in the building.
At Smyrna I had heard much of the statues discovered
and preserved by Tahir Pasha, and of persons who had
travelled thence to see them: how strange it seems that
such specimens should alone be prized, when the country
is rich in the works of the ancient Greeks! Upon two
marble blocks, apparently pedestals, which are now built
into the wall on either side of the entrance to the Pasha's
house, are bas-reliefs of a low age, probably Byzantine, or
perhaps as late as the Crusades. These were found only
a few months ago, as well as several broken statues, which
are preserved with great care by the Pasha, who is anxious
to acquire the European taste for such things; at present
a well-sculptured eagle, which has lost its own head, is
supplied with that of a female figure. Beneath the eagle is
an inscription*.
The whole of the antiquities found here are of a base
Roman age: the coins are very numerous, but among
hundreds brought to me I have not seen one of the ancient
Greek they are generally of the Byzantine empire, and
have monograms and effigies of saints upon them.
I fear I have been rude to the Pasha, but his too great
attention almost merits the same charge. My object for
travelling is to see the people and the country, its natural
history, and its remains of ancient art, and not to waste
time and money in visiting the higher classes, whose at-
tempts to act the European rather disgust than amuse. I
was told by my Smyrnese friends that I must take a letter
of introduction to Tahir Pasha, as he was one of the most
powerful and enlightened men in the country-an excel-
lent fellow, who speaks Italian, drinks champagne, smokes
* Translation." Diogenes Orthios has gratefully consecrated these
two eagles to the god Jupiter.”
M 2
244
LYDIA.
cigars, dances, and wears white-kid gloves! I explained,
that to pay a visit to him would not accord with my plans,
for, as a traveller, my time was limited, and my wardrobe
scanty, and I received the letter without any intention of
using it; notwithstanding this, I found that my arrival had
been anticipated by the Pasha, and on my applying for horses
to leave the town, he sent word that he had been expecting
me some days, and that I must come and stay with him.
I returned an answer, regretting that my haste in passing
through the town would prevent my doing myself that
honour, and sent many civil acknowledgments for his kind-
nesss; he again sent to beg me to come to him, but I was
from home. The servant asked for horses, but the Pasha
told him that no answer would be given until the next day,
evidently wishing to detain me; observing at the same time,
that English lords and great princes had visited him, and
that I ought to come to stay at his palace; however I much
preferred our humble but independent khan. During his
absence from the palace, I went up and saw his few relics in
the garden, and left my thanks and apologies for not calling
upon his Excellency, adding as my excuse that I had no
costume fit to wear in his presence. About eighty piasters
were greedily swallowed by the begging servants on this
occasion. After detaining us for want of an order for horses
until two o'clock the following day, we at last made an
escape without a visit of form.
March 3rd.-The day being so far spent, we have only
journeyed twelve miles, to the small village of Keosk, where
I copied an inscription from a pedestal in the burial-ground.
On the evening of the 4th we proceeded eight miles, to
Sultan Hissá, which lies about a mile on the left of the road:
leaving the horses at the village, we walked about two miles
further up the hill, to examine the ruins of an ancient city,
supposed to be Nysa, a mile above which lies the modern
village of Esky Hissá. The ruins are interesting; they
NYSA.
245
show distinctly the form of a theatre, facing the south; and
many of the seats, with overhanging mouldings, still remain.
The theatre, as well as the general situation of the city, is a
striking instance of the selection by the ancient Greeks of
a site for their theatres commanding extensive and beautiful
views.
The prospect was here exquisite: in front, on either hand,
stood the ornamental buildings of the city, forming a vista
which embraced a view of richly-wooded hills, divided by
rapid streams, hastening to a valley unrivalled in luxuriant
vegetation. Through this runs the "winding Mæander,"
visible for upwards of fifty miles, and making as many curves
in its meandering course. The whole of the scene is bounded
by the mountains of Caria, many at this time capped with
A stream originally ran through an arched passage
under the theatre, and another building, probably a stadium,
in front; but much of this subterranean course had fallen
in, rendering the broken arch and walls on either side an
accumulated mass of ruins. I found but one inscription,
and that was in the village below.
snow.
:
From Sultan Hissá, called by the Greeks Heliopolis, we
rode for twelve miles to Naslee, the whole country from Idin
being a continued succession of orchards and fields of corn.
The soil is light, and the roads are perfectly flat for many
miles they serve as the courses for the water drawn off from
the mountain-streams for the purposes of irrigation. Scarcely
a quarter of a mile in the whole distance is without some
wrought stone of a former age; hundreds of capitals and
bases of columns have been converted into well-copings and
troughs. Some few appeared of fine workmanship, but the
greater number are of a low Roman age.
March 6th.—We were detained the whole of yesterday
hourly waiting for horses; for the establishment of the Post
had been drained for the use of some soldiers on their
way
to Constantinople. It is to be regretted that these naturally
246
LYDIA.
peaceable people should not attend more to the cultivation
of their country, instead of so industriously learning of the
Europeans their vices and arts of war. I have already seen
three Turks intoxicated, and, with their bottle in hand, still
asking for arrack.
I observed several young soldiers idling about the village:
their costume is worn in a most unbecoming manner; they
are dressed in children's short-waisted jackets, of various
colours, but mostly grey; they have no stocks or shirts, and
the white lining of their red fezes is pulled over their ears;
the trousers, which are the peculiar pride of the modernized
Turk, are of white, but often so wide in the waist that they
drag, and hang loosely round the loins; the boots, which are
yellow, generally dirty, and trodden down at the heel, are
intended to be worn as our Wellington boots; but the Turks
always push the loose bottoms of their trousers into them,
and walk in their customary slipshod way: the legs also
have too long been accustomed to bend outward at the
knee, in the sitting posture of the Turk, to straighten them-
selves at the word of command. The pay to these training-
soldiers, who are ever at command, and devote one day in
each week to drill, is twenty-five piasters (4s. 8d.) a month,
and a ration of half an oke of bread (nearly a pound and a
half), worth half a piaster (14d.), a day: additional clothes
are given when the recruit joins the army at Constantinople.
There has been a great market or fair here, and the busy
scene was highly amusing; but from the excessive dirt of
the streets, increased by the heavy rains, which wetted us
through before our arrival last evening, we could not half
enjoy the bustle. While standing amidst the crowd, I copied
an inscription from a sarcophagus, ornamented with wreaths
and Apollo-like heads, but of a low style of sculpture.
In the afternoon we rambled in search of a clean walk,
down the lanes to a village of the same name as this, in
which the Aga resides. Naslee bears an additional name,
ANTIOCHEIA.
247
indicating its being the mercantile town. The sun shone
brightly, and its warmth made the banks by the wayside in-
teresting to the naturalist. The early spring flowers were
just bursting, and I added the crocus, hyacinth, heart's-ease
and many others to my collection. Among the fresh green
weeds basked a small chameleon; we watched it, and han-
dled it in its green retreat. The peculiarities of this little
creature were novel to some of our party. I therefore took
it in my hand, to show them the revolving motion of the
eye; its colour was then a bright yellow-green; gradually
it burst out in blotches of grey, giving a dull appearance to
the whole body. I then placed it on the dark-coloured earth,
and in a few seconds its colour was entirely grey, the remain-
ing yellow spots becoming gradually indistinct. On the grass
it soon recovered its primitive hue, and we left it crawling
clumsily among the weeds on the sunny bank. A few steps
further, one of the beautiful green lizards lay basking, but its
quick eye saw us, and with the nervous rapidity so peculiar to
it, it sheltered itself among the dead reeds. I was surprised
to see a frog also enjoying the sun, avoiding the water, and
sitting on the sandy bank: its colour is of the lightest and
brightest green, and it is of a kind I have never seen in
Europe. The cimex, and many others of the insect tribe,
are adding their happiness to the joys of the season. The
birds were not numerous; several varieties of hawks were
sailing about or hovering over their prey; and the favoured
storks were flying with sticks to add to their last year's nests,
which had remained undisturbed on the chimneys, mosques,
or baths of their protector the Turk.
Yehnejah, March 6th.—It was eleven o'clock this morning
before we could get horses, which has caused us to halt here
after a ride of six hours. The direct distance is not more
than eighteen or twenty miles, but we have gone out of our
way to visit the ruins of what is thought to be the ancient
Antiocheia; its situation upon an isolated rock, rising in the
248
CARIA.
centre of the mouth of the valley of the Mosynus, and com-
manding a view of that of the Mæander, is worthy of the
ancient Greeks; but the ruins now covering and under-
mining its summit are not equal to any works attributed to
the worst age of the Romans; with the exception of the
numerous arches under the ground, the whole is built of
loose stones, as picked up from the mountain. I should say
that the city, if it has been one, bears the appearance of
having been a camp hastily fortified by a powerful people;
cement is used in some places, but the walls are mostly
packed together with loose stones of a small size, all un-
wrought. I saw but eight or ten squared stones in the
whole place; one fragment of a fluted column of white
marble stood a solitary work of art. The ancient river
Mosynus is spread over a wide expanse towards the west,
which we forded, fearing the muddy swamps more than the
depth of the water, which scarcely reached to the knees of
our horses.
On leaving Naslee, we travelled up the valley for two hours,
nearly to the town of Goojak; then turning off the road,
towards the south, we soon found a few huts, forming the
village of Andaluh, near the wooden bridge crossing the
Mæander; about a mile further, on the southern bank stands
the village of Birlehbay. Travelling for two hours to the
eastward, and turning up the valley of the Mosynus to the
south, we passed a pretty little woody village called Arráchi-
flee; from this place the country is rendered unfit for culti-
vation by the stones and masses of rock rolled down from
the schisty slaty mountains forming the western boundary
of the valley of the Mosynus. The road from Yehnejah to
Karasoo passes for about twelve miles over an unproductive
but highly picturesque country. The spring is not stirring,
and the wind from the east is rendered still more cold by
passing over the snows of Mount Cadmus.
The hills which vary the road up this valley are of a
APHRODISIAS.
249
curious composition; on the surface the stones are so nume-
rous that the plough is not used; the beautiful stone-pine
and tufts of underwood are almost the only produce, and
beneath the surface the hills are formed of broken and
generally washed or rolled stones, held slightly together by
a white limy-looking substance, which appears slacked and
crumbling in pieces; this is occasionally stratified, and then
shows layers of a hard flinty kind of opake clay, somewhat
resembling the singular layers of chalcedony that I have
seen in Phrygia. These hills, from the nature of their com-
position, are gradually washed away by the mountain-streams,
and deep ravines intersect the valley in all directions. These
ravines afford a beautiful variety of luxuriant vegetation ;
the oleander, pomegranate, vine and plane, are in the sum-
mer contrasted with the dark green pines on the cliffs above.
March 7th.-Karasoo is a large straggling Turkish village,
with more than usual activity, from the various trades of the
potter, the dyer, and bleacher, which seem to be carried on
upon every open space in the town. Streams of excellent
water, as usual, run through almost every street; and
a clear stream with its deep ravine divides the town, and
forms an important tributary to the Mosynus, which has
its course in the valley about two miles below the town.
The name of Karasoo, meaning "black water," is probably
given from the appearance of the water in the shadowed
ravine, contrasted with the red or white muddy colour of the
water of the Mæander or Lycus. Coins and gems of a late
Greek age, and down almost to the time of the Crusades, are
offered here abundantly for sale, and are all obtained from
the neighbourhood of Yeerah, the ancient Aphrodisias, about
eight miles distant, which city was our attraction in visiting
this district; but the difficulty of obtaining horses in these
small places detains us here till tomorrow.
Sunday, March 8th.-In traversing the extended valley,
which at a distance appeared an immense plain, wherein are
M 3
250
CARIA.
collected the waters of the Mosynus, we found it varied with
considerable hills and very deeply cut dells, formed by the
numerous streams. These streams have their mills with
overshot wheels, and are shadowed by the enormous arms
of the spreading plane-trees: around them is a tract of land
generally well cultivated, the whole forming a pleasing va-
riety in this too neglected district. We arrived at Aphro-
disias before noon, approaching the city through the district
of its tombs: sarcophagi marked the road for the last mile;
and as we entered the gate, so much of interest met the eye
that we determined to remain here some days.
The present state of the village is most ruinous; twenty
only out of about a hundred huts are occupied, all the others
being inhabited by owls; the sociable crane seems to have
deserted the bundle of sticks piled upon the ruined houses,
and a few solitary birds stand, like monuments of melan-
choly, on the chimneys of their protectors' huts. I hear that
there are still two hundred people, including women and
children, in the village and neighbourhood, but I have seen
scarcely an individual amongst the masses of ruins forming
the streets.
251
CHAPTER XIV.
· TEMPLE OF VENUS.
OF
THE ANCIENT APHRODISIAS.TEMPLE
VENUS.-PAGAN AGE. -
CHRISTIAN AGE. PRESENT STATE. SARCOPHAGI.-NATURAL HIS-
TORY.-KARASOO.-ARRIVAL OF THE NEW FIRMAN OR CODE OF LAWS.
-CONSEQUENT CHANGES.-RETURN TO THE VALLEY OF THE MEANDER.
-THE RIVER HARPASUS.-PASSAGE OF THE MOUNTAINS.-VALLEY OF
THE MARSYAS.
-
Aphrodisias, March 10th. We have taken possession of
a house once attached to that of the Aga, which forms a pic-
turesque object from our window; its owner has for some years
left it to decay. I must endeavour to describe in some degree
the interesting objects that detain us here. Aphrodisias lies
to the east of the head of the valley which gives rise to the
Mosynus, and is beautifully bounded by mountains of consi-
derable importance. Cadmus rises majestically on the east,
while the distant summits of Mount Tmolus towering above
the range of Messogis are seen in the north: the elevation of
the city above the sea is about a thousand feet, the air healthy
and cool, and the water excellent. I see no river or stream,
but the old fountains are supplied from distant sources in the
hills.
Aphrodisias is not in appearance the site of an ancient
Greek city; it lies low, and its principal buildings are not,
as usual, elevated above the rest of the town. It is difficult
to describe the ruins of this city; I never saw in one place
so many perfect remains, although by no means of a good age
252
CARIA.
of the arts. The opinion I shall venture to give is founded
wholly upon my observation of the ruins as they exist, in per-
fect ignorance of any historical accounts. I have copied
many of the inscriptions, and hope to increase my knowledge
by their after examination.
On this site I see no trace either of the position, grandeur
of design, or hard style of sculpture, accompanied with the
beauty of simplicity, which so peculiarly mark the cities of
the early Greeks. In much of the material of the temple,
and perhaps in the arrangement of many of its columns, may
be traced a city probably of a date two centuries before the
Christian æra: its stadium on the north side of the city is
still magnificent, running from east to west, and having both
ends circular; most of its seats are still remaining, and in
itself this building alone would repay the trouble of a
visit to this city. On the south side is a small hill, arti-
ficially formed, probably to contain a theatre, the ruins of
which face the south-east; a few foundations would lead us
to suppose that temples may have ornamented this little
acropolis. In the centre of the city stood a beautiful Ionic
temple; fifteen of its white marble fluted columns are still
standing, and some have tablets left uncut where the shaft
was fluted, telling by their inscriptions that they were offer-
ings to the temple of Venus or Aphrodite, the goddess to
whom the city was dedicated.
These stand, I doubt not, upon their original bases, al-
though from their reversed tablets, the irregular joining of
the flutes, and several other points, I judge that they have
been thrown down and afterwards piled up in their present
form.
Many other remains, showing different orders of archi-
tecture, in columns and friezes, attest, without doubt, the
existence of numerous temples, and indicate a beautiful city
built wholly of white marble, large blocks of which are
found in all parts of the ruins, many measuring nine or ten
APHRODISIAS.
253
feet in length. Slabs, probably from the cellas of temples,
covered with inscriptions, are used as material to a very great
extent. I copied inscriptions from upwards of fifty of these,
all of an age perhaps one or two centuries before our æra.
The sarcophagi, which extend half a mile to the west, must
also rank with this state of the city. A few Greek coins
are found in the ruins, but they are very scarce.
My next description carries us to an age probably two
or three centuries subsequent to the Christian æra. The
whole of the temples and public buildings, excepting only
the stadium (which, by a wall built across it near the cir-
cular end, seems to have been converted into an amphi-
theatre) must have been demolished; for a city arose sur-
rounded by walls two miles in circuit, with gates of triple
arches to the west, east, and south: these walls are com-
posed of the remains of temples, tombs, and theatres, re-
moved, although uninjured. The reversed inscriptions and
inverted bas-reliefs bear testimony to the change; and the
beautiful cornices of Greek Pagan temples are now rudely
carved with inscriptions, and placed over the gateways, re-
cording the changed religion and the age in which they were
piled up.
Even the Pagan name of the city was changed,
for in one inscription it appears to be called Tauropolis.
The Cross, with the alpha and omega, and other mono-
grams used by the early Christians, are the emblems over
++
Alm


the gates. Sarcophagi within the walls tell the end of many
of the wealthy Christian inhabitants; and others are regis-
254
CARIA.
tered upon the bases and columns of temples which were
afterwards used to support Christian churches; the title of
archdeacon is sculptured in large letters on the fragment of
a frieze. In this age the temple of Venus must have un-
dergone great change. I have said that the columns are
still standing, and from their proportion, distance and form,
I doubt not upon their original bases-but how changed!
The cella has wholly vanished from the interior of the
colonnade; and many of the slabs of marble inscribed with
the affairs of the city, each bordered or grooved as those I
have seen at Nicæa, are now built into the walls surround-
ing the Byzantine city. A circular end is constructed of
rude stones, closing the east, probably for an altar, where
formerly the sun rose on the portico of the Pagan temple.
Surrounding the whole of this building, are traces of walls
of the same rude workmanship, in which cement was the
main support of the construction; and in this line there are
still standing several jambs of door-ways, of mean proportion
as compared with the old temple; on these appear Christian
emblems and inscriptions. The outer colonnade of the
Temple of Venus must then have served to form a support
to the larger Christian church: at present all is in confused
but undecayed ruin. Surrounding this chief church are
several other columns, in pairs, supporting architraves of
pretty proportions, but perfectly eclipsed by the compara-
tively gigantic temple of the goddess, whose simple fluted
shafts of Greek workmanship display a beauty not dis-
coverable in the circularly surrounding flutes and laboured
ornaments of its diminutive Byzantine neighbour. Two
large tazze, or fonts, ten feet in diameter, and a sitting lion,
lie broken among the ruins: I know not to which age these
belong.
The walls of the town, in their present decay, show better
the extent of depredation and size of the former city than
any other remains; it is equally a study for the lover of art,
APHRODISIAS.
255
EMERNAKUL
of history, or of morality. The coins found are very nume-
rous, but most of those I saw were of the Byzantine age,
and many with Roman inscriptions. I have selected some,
upon which is the name of this city, Aphrodisias, and others
of Plarasa, together with coins of the neighbouring cities
of Laodiceia, Philadelphia and Antiocheia, and a few of the
early kings of Caria, in silver, which were exceptions to the
general late age of the many brought by the industrious.
inhabitants of this remnant of a village.
I copied one inscription, which seems intended to com-
memorate a priestess.
From this sarcophagus, which stood close by the side of
one less ornamented and without inscriptions, we copied an

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interesting record, which shows how carefully the owners
of the tombs endeavoured to secure their preservation and
sole occupancy, and may also add to our knowledge of their
construction, and of the technical names of the various
portions. These sarcophagi stood upon a stone substruc-
ture, too much buried for our examination; but in many
others we saw, and in some were able to enter, a low apart-
ment beneath; this seems to be called here the platas, and to
be appropriated to the less honoured individuals of the family*.
* Translation.-"The substructure [Platas] is [the property] of
Adrastos Polychronios, the son of Glykon, the son of Glykon, the son of
256
CARIA.
Some of the sarcophagi of the Byzantine age are richly
wrought, and, although many of them are of Christian date,
they appear to have retained the Pagan devices: at the end
of the one represented appears an altar burning in front
of a door.
CONGO

21
Auto
///
AAM

Leon, the son of Hekatomnon. The substructure that Polychronia, the
daughter of Kallikrates gave up to him, on that substructure he built a
monument, lying upon the substructure, and both the sarcophagus [Soros]
and the compartments [Isostæ] in it, and the other things in it. In that
sarcophagus I buried Barilla, my wife; and likewise I wish myself to be
put into the sarcophagus, but nobody else. Into the first compartment,
lying under the sarcophagus, I wish my [second] wife, and Polychronios
my son to be buried. But in the other compartment I wish to be put
Tatianos and Adrastos, my children; but nobody else to be put either
into the sarcophagus or into the compartments. But if my heirs, after
having put me into the sarcophagus, shall not make fast the bolt, let my
APHRODISIAS.
257
We had provisions with us, and our only want of firewood
was supplied by these civil but simple people. It was
amusing to see their curiosity when we were copying in-
scriptions, by beating wet pulpy paper into the hollowed
letters in the marble, and allowing it to dry in the sun; they
showed great delight, and soon learned to assist us.
I re-
gretted my not understanding the words in which they in-
dicated their surprise, but I read it in their unaffected and
expressive countenances. The instruments, and their use
in making observations of our latitude and longitude, as
well as the taking our altitude by boiling the thermometer,
were of course all objects of wonder to them, and I dare say
will be long talked of by these simple people. Three days
appeared but a short time to remain in this interesting place,
but on Wednesday evening, the 11th of March, we were
again at Karasoo. On the 12th, we remained to arrange
for horses for our further travels, and rambled for a few
miles about the valleys and deeply-cut ravines of the beau-
tiful neighbourhood. In the vegetable world all is still-
bound in the chains of winter; scarcely a flower is seen but
heir be the goddess Aphrodite. The trustees of the temple for the time
being shall institute proceedings about it, who shall be responsible for
it. But if, contrary to the directions, anybody shall bury another [in
the monument], let him be accursed, and besides pay into the most holy
treasury five thousand denaria, of which one-third is to be his, who in-
stitutes proceedings."
* I made a series of observations at Aphrodisias, to determine its
place on the map. I took a set of double altitudes of the sun about
the time of noon, and other sets morning and afternoon to learn the
error in the watch, so that the former might be reduced to the meridian.
Hence we have 37° 36′ for the latitude. I also took a set of lunar dis-
tances for the longitude, but on my return home I found that, though
there may be a doubt whether this city should not be placed even a little
more eastward than I have ventured to place it, yet the point in doubt
is not great enough to be lessened by my lunar
box-sextant.
distances made with a
258
CARIA.
the anemone, and a beautiful species of fern*, new to me,
both of which I have added to my collection. The thermo-
meter has not risen above 34° for several days, and all the
rippling streams are frozen at their edges; but objects of
interest may be found in a ramble at all seasons, and the
valley or ravine of the Mosynus is not deficient in them. In
walking down by the side of the river, I observed streams
of water issuing from fissures in the white cliffs, and no
ice around them. On examination I found that they were
warm springs, and strongly charged with sulphur: several
tributary streams to the crystal waters of the Mosynus were
clouded as with milk from these springs, and were long
before they became mixed with the purer waters of the river.
On further examining the cliffs, I was surprised and pleased
to find them similar in many respects to the singular geologi-
cal formation which I noticed as so abundant in Phrygia.
The great mass was of a rotten limestone, which cracked and
crumbled as it became exposed to the moisture of the atmo-
sphere. This soft bed is interstratified with a harder sub-
stance, containing much lime, but of that peculiar clayey or
earthy fracture which I observed in Phrygia. I could see
here no pumice-stone, but found nodules of pure yellow
sulphur protruding from the decomposed chalky cliffs; in
other parts were beautiful crystals of sulphate of lime or
selenite: these are continually fractured, and their glittering
surfaces attracted my attention. The whole of the hills in
this valley are of a similar composition, but the surface is
generally covered for many feet with a red gravel, containing
clay, which is manufactured into the classic forms of antique
pottery by the present inhabitants. Probably the peculiarity
of the waters in the neighbourhood may also attract the
bleachers and dyers, so numerously employed in this valley.
March 13th.-The first of March is with the Turks the
* Adiantum Capillus-Veneris (Maiden-hair Fern).
KARASO0.
259
beginning of the year, and from that date hitherto have com-
menced the contracts or farmings with the Sultan, for the taxes
of the various cities and districts. I have ventured to con-
demn the principle, but my experience has shown that either
the working of it, or other circustances, has left a good and
happy peasantry; all Turks indeed appear to be contented.
The Greeks were, I am aware, oppressed by the different
governors with heavier taxes, and were treated as a con-
quered people; but, on the other hand, they escaped the
trouble and annoyance of personal service as citizens.
When we left Karasoo the newly appointed Aga (or, as
he is always called in eastern countries, Arráh) had not
arrived from Constantinople. Up to this period the chief
person of the place was generally appointed its governor,
and if no complaint were lodged against him for extortion
or general ill-conduct, he, as a matter of course, received his
engagement from the government, his own conduct thus
being kept in check by the humblest of the subjects of the
Sultan, who is at all times accessible. The whole system is
this week altered; the tree of liberty is to be planted, and
the reform commenced by the late Sultan in Constantinople
is to be adopted throughout his dominions. This change
was working its way too tediously by the old system of ap-
pointing local governors; the present Sultan therefore, from
this time, takes the whole of the revenues of his kingdom
into his own hands, and sends from Constantinople tutored
strangers, with fixed salaries, to collect his taxes and to carry
out his new system. I doubt not that this will effect his
intention; the result I cannot foresee; but it is to be feared
that, like the attempt to imitate the more superficial part of
our European customs, it will under the appearance of the
good retain much of our more tempting vices. He was a
bold man who first ploughed up the green pasture and made
the earth fallow, and his faith must have been great when he
buried his good grain in the ground.
260
CARIA.
On the horses arriving to carry our baggage from Yeerah,
we first heard of the arrival of the new Aga, and of his
having read publicly the firman or code of regulations. The
changes introduced were the subject of conversation among
all the groups we saw collected on our arrival at Karasoo.
New laws are important things, for their non-observance
creates new crimes. An instance of this stood first on the
new code. The formation of an army is a new thing in this
country, and it has been required that each district should
supply a certain number of soldiers, to be sent to Constan-
tinople or elsewhere. This law, to a peaceable and in-
digenous peasantry, alarmed many families, and the shep-
herds' sons, as I had witnessed in several instances two
years ago, were frightened at our approach, fearing that we
were coming to take them for soldiers. This fear has driven
many for a time from their houses into the mountains or
other villages; it became therefore requisite (if the forma-
tion of an army is requisite, after so many centuries without
one,) to prevent this by some law not found in the Koran
a code of laws which is instilled into the very heart of
the citizen and follower of the Prophet. Fifty police soldiers
or patrol were ordered for this valley of the Mosynus, to
scour the mountains, and a pass-paper or passport is be
taken by every person removing from his village.
The next order which puzzled the Turk was a strict in-
junction that the Greek was to be treated as a brother, and
that no distinction whatever should legally exist in the
treatment of the people of the various nations subject to
the Porte. The taxes, which have hitherto fallen with ten-
fold weight on the more industrious Greek, who is generally
poor, or at least has no visible property in flocks or lands,
are now to be levied upon property, or so much a head upon
all the flocks; on sheep and goats, for instance, one piaster is
to be paid annually for each, and the new system thus at once
places the taxation almost wholly upon the richer Turk.
KARASOO.
261
Two boys had quarrelled in our khan; one injured the
other, and was taken before the new governor. The boy
was bastinadoed until he was unable to bear more, and was
waiting until he was sufficiently recovered to receive the
remaining number of stripes written in the law against his
offence. A requisition was sent by the leading people of
the place, the friends of the boy, to beg a mitigation of the
sentence; but the Aga, for the first time in Turkey, avowed
that he had in himself no power—he was merely the passive
agent of the law. The ostentatious carrying of arms, hi-
therto the pride and ornament of the Turk, is forbidden, and
no persons are now allowed to possess arms unless licensed
to bear them. We are accustomed to this, but it is new in
Turkey. The change which most affected ourselves was the
regulations of the Post: hitherto the Menzilkhanner, or
postmaster, had a salary, and for this he was bound to sup-
ply such horses as might be required by the messengers of
Government or Post, and those persons who were provided
with a firman, or teskary, at a stated price of one piaster an
hour for each horse, the only profit to the postmaster being
his salary. The new regulations almost put an end to this
office; it withdraws the salary, and allows him to charge
two and a half piasters an hour to the few private individual
travellers provided with teskaries, on condition of his carry-
ing the Government despatches free; in this village it was
evident that the very small demand by travellers, even at
the former low price, bore no proportion to the continual
requirements of the Government, and at the new price.
would probably be superseded by the hire of horses from
individuals on more reasonable terms. We were therefore
applied to by the late Menzilkhanner, who tendered himself
and his stud of ten horses for our service by the month, we
taking him wherever we pleased. His first demand was,
like all proceeding from the Turk, honest and moderate, the
result of consideration; he offered himself, two Zoorigees
262
CARIA.
and ten horses, he paying all expenses of the men and horses
on the road; his own food he proposed to share with our
servant. The charge was 1400 piasters a month, and we
might leave him when and where we chose—a sum less than
ten shillings a day; the bargain was closed, and he placed
his hand on his breast and head, and touched my hand; his
word was thus given, and no further agreement was requisite.
The Governor soon sent down to say that he was for a time
left without horses, until a new contractor could be found,
and asked us as a favour to defer our departure for one day,
that he might be enabled to send off some despatches; he at
the same time renewed his invitation to us to take up our
abode at his Konak, or official residence.
We took advantage of this day's rest, and rambled about
the neighbourhood. I have mentioned that the soil of this
country consists of rapidly decomposing limestone, and as the
streams carry down this lime in their waters, of course in-
crustation of vegetable matter and of loose pebbles on the
banks is the consequence. This conglomerate has not been
overlooked by the people, and superstition was fed by the
occurrence. They tell us, that before the time of Mahomet,
lived Haziratallee, and the print of his horses' feet was made
upon a rock in the valley; that in order to pay respect to
his memory, all passers-by are said to have thrown a stone
on the pile raised to his honour; and every stone was fast-
ened down by some good spirit, and thus formed into a
mountain.
March 13th.—This morning we left Karasoo in the for-
midable cavalcade of our newly-arranged party; in front
rides our Cavass, a kind of courier, in a most superb Turkish
costume, with the beautiful embossed silver pistols and sword
of the country stuck into the front of his sash; his horse
caparisoned to correspond with his dress, and trained to
the prancing pace of such an officer in a Turkish proces-
sion. Next came a Zoorigee with green turban; then three
VALLEY OF THE MEANDER.
263
loads of baggage, and another Zoorigee. I followed, with
Mr. Hesketh and Mr. Scharf, and the rear was filled by
Mania*. I fear the extent of our cavalcade will impede a
rapid progress, but at present the road lying over the same
stony district by which we had ascended the valley, pre-
vents our exceeding a walking pace. This evening we are
at Arrachiflee, on the side of the river opposite the ruins of
Antiocheia. I find by my thermometer that we have de-
scended above five hundred feet from Karasoo.
March 14th.—We have travelled for eight hours, or more
than thirty miles, to the westward, along the southern side
of the valley of the Mæander, which is far more picturesque
than the northern; the mountains at whose feet our road
lay being rock, and not the crumbling gravelly hills, which,
at the distance across the valley, now assume a more pleas-
ing appearance. The country immediately on our right is
a perfect level, and is cultivated with corn; the plough is
seen moving in every direction. On our left, the sloping
green of the lower hills of the mountains is spotted with
cattle and the black tents of the Yourooks. Many small
villages are sheltered among them, the principal of which are
Birrejeh and Arepas; the latter is situated at the foot of a
hill covered with the ruins of a city or fortress of unhewn
stone, similar to those at Antiocheia; these may probably
have been the ancient Harpasa. Beneath this runs the river
Harpasus, winding down the valley in a broad, strong, and
quiet stream, cutting deeply into the sandy soil. A pro-
fusion of ducks and wild-fowl find shelter in the reeds and
bushes growing on the waste tract occasionally inundated by
its waters; the valley is about four miles across. A ferry-
boat is at the end of the valley, and lands you at the village
* Pagniotti Mania was an honest and industrious servant, and well
acquainted with the habits and requirements of the English, having been
several years cook on board the Tribune ship of war, as well as in
English families.
264
CARIA.
of Dondoorahn on the western side. Here, as at the other
ferries I have seen in this country, the boat is of a triangular
form, and looks like the head of a boat cut off at midships;
the rope
which stretches across the river is of very consider-
able length, and is formed of vine-stems, many thirty or
forty feet long, spliced together at their ends. We are now
in the Konak, or house of the Aga, in the little village of
Yennibazaar, which is erroneously laid down in all the maps
as are also many of the rivers in this district. I have been
shown some sheep here, which appear of the same breed as
all others of this country; having the broad tail, and known
to us as the Cape sheep; but these flocks I am told are pe-
culiar in having lambs twice during the year, and frequently
two lambs at a time. This profitable quality of course in-
creases the price of the sheep.
March 15th.-We are at a little village consisting of but
a few well-built stone houses in a plain; it is called Zhumar-
lee-cooe. In the yard of the Konak is a pedestal with an
inscription to Apollo*: I also observed many fragments of
ancient art evidently from some old site not far distant.
We are told that they are brought from Arab-Hissá, a village
eight miles south of this place, the object which has caused
me to seek this route. From Yennibazaar we have had a
beautiful ride of six hours, travelling for the first eight
miles down the valley of the Mæander, toward the west,
passing continually little villages on the sides of the hills:
these have all names signifying some rustic fare they afford.
I put these down in the order we passed them, but none of
them deserved a remark for preference, although they may
The situation of each
serve as guides for future travellers.
was fine and healthy, overlooking the broad and rich valley
to the north: Alkhan Kuilee Khan (or "ass's stable");
Chalgar, Yodurennee, Allahnee, Dalamon, Tepecooe, Youg-
* CC [The statue ?] of Apollo, the Liberator, the August." These
epithets, applied to Apollo, are unusual.
VALLEY OF THE MARSYAS.
265
oortcooe, and on the right Yostootsh. We here turned to the
south through the mountains by an ascending valley, with its
little rill called Hassá-bohas. The scenery was beautiful;
winding up rocks well clothed with underwood, while beneath
the branches the spring flowers were bursting into bloom.
The soil was of sand, and its red and yellow hues added to
the rich effect of the vegetation. In an hour and a half we
reached the summit of this range of hills, and looked down
upon a valley, with a large river running from the north-east
through a fine rich-looking mountain country. Descending
to its banks we had to cross and recross its broad but shallow
bed a dozen times. I never saw a better-looking stream for
fish, and in its crystal waters I saw shoals of the finny tribe
enjoying life. They appeared like our trout of about three-
quarters of a pound weight. The river took a westward
course, and through a narrow ravine led us to this large
valley, watered by the river Cheena, the ancient Marsyas, to
which, still further to the west, it became a tributary.
N
266
CHAPTER XV.
ARAB HISSA, ANCIENT ALABANDA.-RUINS.-DEMMEERGE-DEKASY, AN-
CIENT ALINDA.-TOMBS.-RUINS.-PASSAGE OF THE MOUNTAINS.-
UNKNOWN RUINS.—MYLASA.—-TEMPLE OF LABRANDA [?].-ANCIENT
REMAINS.-MAUSOLEUM.
March 16th, Capeedas.-Arab Hissά had not a shelter for us,
consisting of but a few huts amidst the ruins of the ancient
city, whose temple walls now serve as folds for calves, which
are bred abundantly in this neighbourhood. This village,
which is of the lowest grade to deserve the title, is a mile to
the south of Arab Hissá. Depositing our baggage, we lost
no time in returning to examine the ruins of the ancient
city, whose name has not yet been satisfactorily fixed: it is
supposed by many to be the ruins of Alabanda. Climbing
up the back of a steep hill which overlooked the city, and
whose top was covered with old walls, we had a com-
manding view of the whole country, the position of which
differs much from that laid down in the maps. The large
river, which, escorted by guides, we had with great difficulty
crossed four miles to the south of Zhumarleecooe, soon after-
wards divided into two branches; one coming from Cheena
on the south, which gives its name to the river, the other
from the west-south-west. Crossing the latter, we arrived
at the ruins before us, which are at the fork or angle of
ALABANDA.
267
the two rivers. The whole country is mountainous, but the
valleys highly productive and extensive. Scattered about
are the tents of the Yourooks, who watch the numerous
flocks of sheep, and herds of cows and buffalos. The plains
are in large tracks of monotonous colours, with the young
wheat and barley, and here and there the rich-looking red
soil is being ploughed to receive the seeds of the cotton-plant.
Rising from this plain are green slopes, covered with flocks,
and the fig, olive, and vine show that a fine climate favours
this region. The ruins of the city below are mysterious;
there is a boldness and simple massiveness in the construc-
tion of the walls and theatre, which is anterior to the age
of
the cities I have seen during the past week, but an almost
total absence of inscriptions leaves much in obscurity. The
whole of the materials used in its construction are of igneous
rock, and generally of a coarse granite, whose perishing sur-
face has been further injured by the lichens growing upon.
it. The few inscriptions which I traced with difficulty upon
the sarcophagi, were too imperfect to throw much light
upon the name or history of the city. The theatre, which
faced the north-west, was as usual built in the side of a hill,
and its massive stone-work is of the beautiful and regular
Greek style, the joints between the large stones being ren-
dered more conspicuous by the bulging or cushioned form of
each stone; the walls are built with two wide and one nar-
row course successively; the proscenium has been destroyed
and the seats have disappeared, but the outward form re-
mains, as well as the three arches for the vomitories. The

N 2
268
CARIA.
shape is of a kind of which I had not seen many, and I be-
lieve is almost peculiar to eastern Greece, the ends or horns
of its crescent having their walls cutting inwards towards
the proscenium.
Near the theatre has stood a building of considerable im-
portance, and upon a site most imposing, but its basement.
or stoa alone remains. Down below, on what appeared from
above the flat valley, but which we found was still elevated
ground, stands a finely-built structure of an oblong form,
which now is perfect as high as a cornice, probably thirty
feet from the ground; above this are the bases of pilasters
and openings for doors; the interior is a mass of ruin, and
affords no clue to the former use of this building. Founda-
tions are seen in every direction for the distance of a mile in
length, and nearly half a mile in breadth. Even more than
this extent has been included within walls, for their ruins
are traced over the ridges of the hills at the back of the city.
The positions of four important gates are now marked by
lines of sarcophagi on either side of the road, from the walls
into the plains; those to the east and west extend for more
than a mile. The form of the sarcophagus is generally of a
uniform plain squared oblong, and the lids of a rude shape,
scarcely rising to a pediment at the ends. The inscriptions
upon them consist of but few letters, all of the Greek charac-
ter: they are generally above six inches in length, but very
imperfect from decay.
ΟΙ
Scarcely a block of marble is to be found in the ruins of
the city; the pedestal which we yesterday saw at Zhumar-
leecooe was perhaps the last remaining legible inscription.
The order of architecture seems to have been wholly Ionic;
some columns are fluted, but they are generally plain, and not
any of great dimensions. I obtained a few coins, among which
were some of the ancient city, with the name of Alabanda
upon them; also coins of Magnesia ad Mæandrum, which
was opposite to the end of this valley, and of Miletus, also
ALINDA.
269
not far distant. I made some observations for ascertaining
localities, but the cloudy weather rendered this difficult.
Demmeerge-derasy, March 17th.—After a ride of five hours
perhaps not more than sixteen miles, generally bearing to
the west-south-west, we are again amidst ruins, but of a far
more interesting and picturesque appearance than those
which we have left at Alabanda; we therefore tarry here for
a day to examine them. The road we have traversed since
leaving Arab Hissá lay in the valley of the branch of the
Cheena, which river takes the name of Karpuslee-chi, from
a village of that name about two miles higher up the valley.
Passing several groups of huts, each boasting the name of a
village, and then turning up to the south-west, we crossed a
series of small mountains, covered with rich underwood and
wild olives. In each valley we saw the tents of the Yourooks,
who were depasturing their cattle around them, while their
few camels raised their stately heads above the trees on the hill-
sides, upon which they were browsing. Scarcely any cultiva-
tion is here attempted. Turning again through a ravine to the
west, we came upon the declivity of a hill covered with olive-
trees; and as we entered a little valley, encircled by hills,
which puzzled us to ascertain how the river entered, and
again left it, we arrived at a few houses, forming the village
of Hoomarleh. A heavy shower of rain drove us to take
shelter for half an hour in a stable; a bowl of olives, in oil,
and a quantity of bread of the country, were brought to the
servants.
When the shower abated, we peeped out of our retreat,
and saw some females separating the oil from the olive, a
process which I had not before had an opportunity of ob-
serving. The group was picturesque: bags filled with olives,
which had been crushed in the mill, and for some weeks lying
in salt, were piled upon a rock; near these was a large pot
or copper of boiling water, into which each bag was put in
turn, and then placed upon a flat floor, or stone, with chan-
270
CARIA.
nels cut across it; upon these hot bags women were treading,
with their legs bare, visible at least to the knee, while their
heads were closely shrouded with the white veil, covering
the upper part of the body; from under this came an arm,
grasping a long stick, which served to steady the body during
the violent exercise of trampling the apparently scalding
bags; the hot liquor, on the top of which floated the oil, ran
off into wooden vessels; a plug near the bottom was occa-
sionally withdrawn, to let out the dark chocolate-coloured
liquid, which stained the channels from every part of the
village, the pressing of the oil being at this season the occu-
pation of most of the women of the place. The spring is
here beginning to open rapidly; each day's rain seems to
shower down flowers; hyacinths, anemones, and some beau-
tiful yellow blossoms, seem to exhaust every variety of
colour; the narcissus, springing up from among the tufts
of thorns, adds a sparkling white to the gay picture. This
latter flower is a favourite with the Turks, and soon finds a
place in the folds of his turban; it is the flower commonly
gathered and offered to us by the peasantry. The Turks
value sweetness more than beauty in flowers; I am reminded
of this by seeing the grape-hyacinth in bloom, whose appa-
rently dead and dull flower was frequently presented to me
on my former tour later in the season, the honey-like smell
giving it a great charm with this people. Crossing the
Karpuslee-chi, we traversed the valley, and arrived at this
place--and what has it been? The direction is west-south-
west of Arab Hissá, although the same place is laid down in
the maps to the north, and there only supposed to have been
the ancient Orthosia; I hope to fix its locality by a set of
observations, but its name must remain unknown, unless
the numerous coins I have collected may tell the tale. I
have not discovered a single inscription. Many of the sarco-
phagi have had tablets let into their rough stone, probably of
metal or marble, but the holes made by the ties alone remain.
ALINDA.
271

PAPAL
MATATINA,
Bus
中
​.ނހރ
The situation of this highly picturesque city is perfectly
Greek, and I have seen none built up so steep a crag, formed
of the boldest blocks of granite-rock, which have in many
places been cut into long flights of wide steps, leading up to
the city. One of three or four of the lines of tombs, showing
the various approaches, is very characteristic, and must have
had a grand and melancholy appearance-a "Via Sacra;" it
was a paved way, of steep ascent from the valley, extending
nearly a mile up into the crag of the acropolis, winding the
whole length between tombs of all the forms of heavy melan-
choly grandeur, which effect was heightened by the grey
colour of the granite, out of which, or rather in which, they
were formed; for some, the most novel to me, had a cavity
for the body cut into the mass of the rock, and a heavy cover
HILUN!
JJ


POR
placed over it; the weight of some of these has secured the
sanctity of the dead. I sketched many of various forms, but
272
CARIA.
the effect of the whole I cannot express with pencil or pen.
This street of tombs retains its pavement of large oblong
stones, eight or nine feet in length; the width of the way
was seventeen feet, formed by two stones. As an admirer
of works of art, I am of course delighted to find highly orna-
mented and sculptured tombs, as I have done in Lycia; but
as monuments for the dead, these massive tombs are more
fit emblems, and are another instance of the perfection of
taste among the early Greeks. The designs of many of our
modern tombs carry the ideas away from the dead, and are
looked at often as works of art alone.
Near the upper termination of this Via Sacra is a very
conspicuous building of beautiful masonry; it has a bold
front, running along the face of the steep rock, and appa-
rently serves to hold up a terrace, of the width of about a
hundred feet; the rock then becomes its opposite support.
Within the front of this oblong building, which is nearly 330
feet in length, are a series of square rooms, or store-houses,
and above them a colonnade of square pillars, with a half-
column of the Doric order on either side. These and the
lower rooms have been lighted by small apertures near the
ceiling of each. On the terrace above all was another colon-
nade of single Doric pillars, many of which are still stand-
ing; but these terraces occupied only forty feet of the front;
the remaining depth is now a mere level field, and its former
use is perfectly uncertain. It may have been an agora, but
its position is too important, and not very convenient for the
citizens living so high above. This building much resembles
the oblong basement at Alabanda, which could not have been
an agora, from its height, and was most probably the stoa of
a temple or place of amusement; the length is not sufficient
for a stadium, nor have there been raised seats for specta-
tors. Almost perpendicularly above this building stands the
theatre, facing nearly the south; most of the seats remain,
and the outer walls are entire, excepting those of the pro-
ALINDA.
273
scenium, which have fallen down the cliff in front. Winding
round the rocks above, amidst walls of massive and uniform
masonry, covered with ruins of ornamental buildings, and
columns, both fluted and plain, but of small dimensions, we
climbed upon the top of the acropolis or citadel. On the
northern side stands a fine square tower, with windows and
doors on its upper floor; this is formed of excellent massive
Greek masonry, some of the stones measuring twelve to
fourteen feet in length. The crown of this hill seems to
have had little more than walls surrounding it; no founda-
tions are visible upon its small field at the top, but beneath
its surface are large cisterns, lined with cement, and similar
to those I have often seen made by the early inhabitants of
the coast of this country for storing their grain; these vaults
were partly arched over, and were then covered up with
stones above thirteen feet in length.
The buildings of the city viewed from this elevation were
almost lost among the rocks with which they were mingled:
the huts of the people of the present town did not disturb
the effect of ruin, and their green flat tops distinguished
them among the rocks below. I find, out of twenty copper
coins obtained here, five bearing the name of Alinda, which
city stood in this region of Caria. In the absence of better
authority, I should consider this as sufficient to mark these
ruins as the site of the ancient Alinda.
March 19th.-We are in one of the most beautiful situa-
tions I ever saw, in the little scattered village of Toorbeh,
high up in the mountains, and raised on a rocky eminence
amidst a forest of stone-pines. The direction we have taken
from Demmeerge-derasy is south-west, the distance five
hours. About a mile and a half on the way we left the vil-
lage of Karpuslee on the right, crossing its river twice, and
then gradually ascending the mountains, whose circle ap-
peared to contract around us, until their various rills, like
radii directed towards the valley, united in a considerable
N 3
274
CARIA.
brook, which is the source of the river forming the main
branch of the ancient Marsyas. The mountains consist en-
tirely of blocks and crags of coarse granite, which is rapidly
decomposing, and its sand nourishes luxuriantly the oak and
the stone-pine, whose rich deep colour contrasts beautifully
with the brilliant green of the mossy rocks. The peculiar
effect of a forest of this description of fir-trees must be seen
in order to be properly appreciated, and I have seen none
but in this country; these firs cultivated in Italy give but a
faint idea of the peculiar beauty of their natural growth.
The forest extends nearly thirty miles over the range of
mountains separating this valley from that of the country of
Mylasa. The distant ranges of granite crags rising above
the wood, and the green valleys cultivated at their feet, even
in this high district, formed a view from the door of our cot-
tage that exceeded in beauty anything I had ever seen in
European scenery, although of so different a kind that each
has its peculiar claim to admiration.
March 20th.—For nearly two hours this morning we con-
tinued our ascent of the wooded mountain-range towards the
west-south-west, craggy and highly picturesque, but not very
steep. Along the ridge of the mountain the trees became
less thick, and allowed us to look down the ravines of hills
upon the extended view that opened before us to the west,
over the plains of Mellassa, bounded by the bold moun-
tains skirting the Cerambic Gulf; the sea formed, as it
were, a placid lake, and the island of Cos, with the promon-
tories of Halicarnassus and Cnidus, were grey in the distance.
The vegetation during our morning's ride had changed
from the unvaried underwood of the dwarf oak to the heath,
cistus, and lavender; flowers were sparkling between the
bushes, and the blossom already covered the yellow broom.
The geological features, as we passed the summit, also
changed; the coarse granite seemed gradually to cease, ap-
pearing only in rolled blocks, over the shivered slaty rocks.
MYLASA.
275
which abound so much throughout the whole of Anatolia:
thick veins of quartz protruded in ridges, and the blocks of
granite were veined with lines of a black quartz. The rocks,
as we descended, became more and more schisty, until at
every step they crumbled into a silvery dust of mica; the
beaten track of the road consisting almost wholly of blocks
of quartz, the only durable remnant of the decomposing
rocks. This increase and change of soil carried us at once,
as we descended, into a spring of flowers. I never saw ane-
mones so numerous and varied: on the meadow at our feet
I can compare them to nothing but a rich Turkey carpet,
in which the green grass did not form a prominent colour
amidst the crimson, lilac, blue, scarlet, white, and yellow
flowers. The black iris and a hyacinth were the only addi-
tions I made to my collection of plants.
At about twelve miles before we reached Mellassa, and to
the north-east of that city, we passed, amidst the woods,
some important ruins, of good masonry and of an ornamental
character; one fine building, with a door twelve feet wide
within a windowed portico, and the square interior or cella
having windows on either side, seemed among the most pro-
minent. The portico, formed by the extension of the side
walls of the cella, is of the kind known as a portico in antis :
two fluted columns lay near it. The whole of the buildings
of the place seemed compact, and may probably have been
enclosed by a long wall running in front. Three or four
tombs, partly cut in the rock, attracted our attention to the
place, a few hundred yards before we arrived at the ruins.
In descending the mountain toward Mellassa, we followed
and continually crossed and re-crossed an ancient paved road,
the large stones differing from those of later days by being
wrought and fitted together with the protruding natural
rock the road, in passing ravines, was also built up with
solid Greek masonry. This way doubtless continued to the
ancient city of Mylasa. Colonel Leake says, that about this
:
276
CARIA.
spot he thinks it probable may be discovered the remains of
Labranda, which name is at present given to the ruins and
temple to the north-west; to those he proposes the name of
Euromus.
March 23rd, Mellassa (the ancient Mylasa).-We arrived
here in a violent storm early in the afternoon of the 20th,
and have been detained by the continued rains, which have
almost kept us prisoners in our khan, or allowed us but short
walks about the town. The rivers in the neighbourhood are
much swollen, and the whole country flooded. We have
made one excursion to see the temple, on the spot called the
ancient Labranda, but the rain fell in such torrents, that the
few inscriptions we copied with difficulty, while sheltering
the paper within our caps, were afterwards almost oblite-
rated, our portfolios and pockets being completely saturated
by the rain. I was anxious to visit this temple again, as my
observations on my former tour, of the differences in its
columns, had been explained to me in so interesting a man-
ner by the interpretation of the inscription upon the tablet
of a column, stating that its shaft, base, and capital had been
contributed by an individual in honour of his daughter. I
have now copied eleven of these inscriptions; some are too
much obliterated to be deciphered, from lying on the ground.
The inscription, a translation of which is subjoined in a note*,
is repeated upon all the tablets on the columns in front of
the temple*. Another inscriptiont is found upon all the
columns of the north side.
My opinions as to the architecture and situation of the
temple are unchanged. Among the walls I mentioned as
* Translation. "Menecrates, the son of Menecrates, the Archiater
[principal physician] of the town, [gave] whilst Stephanephoros, this
column, with the base and capital, his daughter Tryphæna, herself also
a Stephanephoros and Gymnasiarchos, superintending [the work]."
+ Translation.-"Leo, the son of Leo, whilst Stephanephoros, [gave]
the column, with the base and the capital, according to his promise."
MYLASA.
277
being on the rising ground to the north, we found the exca-
vation of a theatre, with many of its seats remaining: its
aspect is toward the south-west. The weather was too un-
favourable for botanical or geological researches, for the thick
branches of a group of evergreen oaks did not even afford
shelter from the deluging rain. These oaks have the small
holly-like leaf of the dwarf shrub universal in this country;
but the size of the trees was immense, their stems being
above twenty feet in girth, and the branches must have
shaded a circle of seventy feet from the midday sun.
The site of Mylasa has been covered with public buildings,
and many of the stones remaining show them to have been
highly ornamented. The Corinthian order seems to have pre-
vailed; but Ionic capitals are also seen built into the walls.
I mentioned in my former Journal a fine arched gateway,
which was still remaining; an aqueduct has passed over it.
I have sketched the outer side, showing on the keystone the
sacrificial axe of Jupiter, which has been deemed an argu-
ment favouring the idea that this gateway led to the temple
F

of Jupiter Labrandenus. This emblem I have seen on four
different keystones, built into various walls in the town,
showing that it must have been very commonly used in the
architecture of the city, and not improbably placed over each
of its gates. I have obtained coins of the ancient city, with
the same emblem upon them, and also one representing
Jupiter, with a similar axe in his hand.
278
CARIA.
Another of the monuments still existing at Mylasa is a
tomb of a very imposing form, and may, from its high state.
of preservation, explain the former use of some I have noticed
at Alinda, which now appear as mere pedestals or stoas. A

-MUTE"IME" INIIKARIT
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шумно ото занима
hole in the floor of this upper apartment or temple is said by
one writer to have been for the pouring down libations to the
manes in the vault beneath. There being no visible means for
the friends of the deceased to reach the platform for this holy
purpose, I listened to the explanation of the Turk who acted
as cicerone: he says the building was a treasury, and that the
lower room was filled with gold, which had been dropped down
the hole above, and that many such buildings had existed.
I have never heard a Turk relate any anecdote of "old
castles," as he calls them, without some reference to hidden
treasure; he believes that every inscription tells of treasure,
if he could understand it, and every cavern leads to some
ancient store of accumulated gold; but these stories, like
the tales of children, have each their characteristic moral;
they tell you that whoever enters wishing to carry away
wealth, finds himself a prisoner, lost in the dark vaults,
MYLASA.
279
until he lays down that which he was about to steal: he
may then return, empty-handed, by the open door. A Jew
is said to have once entered a cavern, and was thus served,
but the lesson has prevented the Turk from repeating the
like attempt. Many of the hot springs and volcanic gaseous
flames in the country serve to dress the meat of the ho-
nest shepherd, but that which has been stolen can never be
cooked at these places. I should almost regret the loss of this
trait of credulous simplicity, however childish it may appear.
In closing my former Journal I gave my general impression
of the character of the Turks, formed in spite of prejudice
against them, and entirely drawn from their own conduct.
Perhaps I may be suspected, like many converts, to have
become too warmly the advocate of their character; but I
cannot accuse myself of this feeling, and have now reason
to repeat my opinion, from a longer experience. What I am
about to say will show that their faults are not overlooked
by me, although in citing an exception it may be thought
to prove my rule. At Naslee the master of the post sat
with us, talking much nonsense, accompanied with extreme
politeness, and holding in his hand an empty bottle, which
he hoped we should refill with arrac; he had evidently drunk
the whole of its former contents. I know not if his pro-
fession has caused this neglect of the Prophet's laws, but
our cavass is a determined drunkard; he will empty two or
three bottles a day of pure arrac, a spirit extracted from
the refuse of grapes, used as spirits-of-wine by us, and in
strength far above proof. This man is a wretched example
of the effects of intemperance; at times he is like a perfect
madman; when the fit subsides he weeps like a child, and
promises better conduct, but only practises it when beyond
the reach of obtaining a supply of spirits, for which he is
willing to pay any price or make any sacrifice.
But to revert to the tomb I was describing. Those rast
stoas I have mentioned as existing at Alinda have evidently
also been mausoleums, and probably surmounted with
280
CARIA.
columns and a superstructure resembling this, the scale
alone differing, some of them being of double the dimension
of the one shown in the preceding sketch. It is curious that
such are not be seen out of Caria, and that in its construc-
tion this tomb precisely answers to the description of the
celebrated monument erected to Mausolus in this country,
which was one of the wonders of the world, and from which
we derive the term Mausoleum.
We are to start from Mellassa to-morrow morning; this
has been a lovely day, the sun and wind drying the deluged
earth; the streams are again finding their accustomed beds,
and we anticipate no further delay. What a change does
a sunny day, after rains, make in a warm climate, at this
season! the flowers may almost be seen to expand. This
morning I wandered over the hill on the south of the town,
and saw the flowers recovering from the beating rains; the
people were all busy cutting the grass from their house-tops,
and every hut had its little roller at work to press down the
wet earth of its roof. In the evening I visited the same
hill, to seek the site of the ancient theatre, the impression
of which alone seems to remain on the south-east side: the
whole hill had burst into a garden of flowers. Women and
children were decking themselves most tastefully, plaiting
the blue hyacinth into their long hanging locks, and placing
a crest of anemones or marigolds on their foreheads; the
folds of the turbans of the boys were rolled in flowers; the
whole scene was beautiful. Along the valley, for several
miles to the south-east, we traced the ruins of a fine aque-
duct, which formerly conveyed the water from the mountains.
The distant hills were now grey, and tinged with the setting
sun. To the south, at a distance of about six miles, on the
verge of a precipice, stands the town of Paichin, supposed
to occupy the site of one of the celebrated temples of
Jupiter; its situation is worthy of a Greek temple, which,
from the valley, would appear relieved against the sky, the
country beyond being a flat table-land.
281
CHAPTER XVI
STRATONICEIA, ITS RUINS.-ROUTE TO MOOLAH.~ANCIENT TOMBS.-
THE PASHA. LONGEVITY.-CHANGE IN THE LAWS. -DETENTION
AMONG THE PEASANTS.-MUSIC.-DANCING.-CUSTOMS.-PASSAGE
OF THE RIVER.-DOLLOMON.
seven.
March 24th, Esky Hissá.-This morning we left Mellassa
for this place, the ancient Stratoniceia; the distance is six
hours, but from the bad state of the road it has taken us
For four miles we traversed the plain, and then for
three hours more clambered up the rocky mountainous road
to the south-east. This country is highly picturesque, and it
has received additional grandeur of effect from the frequent
thunder-storms and partial gleams of light amidst the pelt-
ing hail-storms.
I have before spoken of the geology of this district; and
its changes, although constant, are in two years imper-
ceptible. I again noticed the singular crumbling sands,
white, red, and blue, similar to those of Alum Bay in the
Isle of Wight; and the ironstone, in almost pure ore, scat-
tered over the surface of the country. In the people I ob-
served the primitive mode of obtaining turpentine-wood for
light; and the felling of the trees is in the last two years as
little changed as it has been for three thousand years past*.
I this afternoon continued my research amongst the broken
fragments of this once large town.
* Described at p. 191.
282
CARIA.
I have impressed upon paper the inscription I copied on
my last visit to this spot, as a specimen of the most beauti-
fully formed Greek letters I have ever seen. On the outer
side of the wall of this cella, towards the north, is the long
and celebrated edict of Dioclesian, both in Greek and Latin
its transcription, a laborious undertaking, was accomplished
above a century ago by Sherard, and is among the manu-
scripts in the British Museum. Colonel Leake has presented
me with a copy of it published in the form of a pamphlet,
which is an important supplementary document to his valu-
able work on Asia Minor. It is curious that many of the
articles of food mentioned in this edict still retain the same
names amongst the peasantry of the country.
The theatre, which I did not examine on my former visit,
is on the west side of the town; the whole of the seats
remain, but the proscenium is a heap of ruins. The vomito-
ries must have been on the sides of the proscenium, for there
are no arched ways visible leading into the diazoma, or lobby.
March 25th. This morning we delayed our departure
until eleven o'clock, hoping that the rains would cease;
and taking advantage of a fair hour, we travelled slowly over
the rocky road towards Moolah. On reaching the plain
the rain again fell in torrents, and we were compelled to
take refuge at the village of Bozuke, not two hours' ride
from Esky Hissá: we have heard the thunder rolling among
the mountains around us all the afternoon. The general
elevation of this country is 1500 feet above the sea.
Moolah, March 27th.-This large Turkish town, the re-
sidence of a pasha, has no doubt, from its overhanging rock
and fine commanding situation, been the site of an ancient
Greek city; this must be the first impression of all travellers
who approach it from its flat plain to the north, west, and
south. With this idea, I looked for old materials in every wall,
but scarcely saw a stone of that character. In rambling up
one of the craggy ravines at the back of the town, we were
MOOLAH.
283
attracted by some square holes high up in the cliffs, and
spent several hours in exploring what we found to be
ancient tombs, cut within the rocks. From their form and
construction, they must have been the work of the early
Greeks, and the repositories of the dead of a considerable.
city; I think we examined above a hundred. The name of
the ancient city, I believe, has never been found on inscrip-
tions, but it is supposed to have been Alinda. My inquiry
here for coins was answered most liberally, and I have added
above thirty to my collection; but among these I find none
of the town of Alinda, some of them belonging to the cities
on the coast, and one to Samos, together with many Roman
and Byzantine. All coins from the neighbourhood naturally
find their way to the chief commercial towns. At Mellassa
they are quite an article of merchandize with the Jews, and
for coins which I bought for a piaster at other places, I was
there asked from fifty to one hundred piasters. At present
the coins have not been carried far from the places in which
they were found, and, like fossils in geology, they may per-
haps be useful in indicating a date and name to their differ-
ent localities.
We yesterday travelled about twenty miles, gradually
ascending the valley which gives source to the river Cheena;
in its course towards the town of that name it passes the
ancient site of Lekena, on the opposite side of the valley to
Bozuke, and a little to the north-east of Acruicooe, the
village I passed on my former tour. At a few miles before
arriving at Moolah, we left the valley in which the Cheena
takes its rise, and, crossing a small range of mountains,
reached the large swampy plain before this town. Today we
start for Hoolah, but, as the distance is only twelve miles,
we spend the forenoon here, and shall ride over the moun-
tains after an early dinner.
Our room has this morning been quite a busy scene, with
Turks bringing in coins and fancied treasures, some of the
284
CARIA.
+
I
most ridiculous kind-Russian and Greek modern coins,
buttons, pieces of tin, part of a spoon-all considered by
these men as of value, from their ignorance of their use.
was amused by the conscientious conduct of one Turk: he
possessed, he said, the head of a marble figure, which he
promised I should see; considerable delay occurred, and a
Russian tailor, who was on his professional tour for the
clothing of some young recruits, which we saw on entering
the town, brought the little mutilated head to my room, and
said that I might have it at my own price. On inquiry, I
found that the Prophet has strongly forbidden the dealing
in idols, and any representation of man is looked upon as
such by the Mussulman; the owner therefore did not choose
to offer it to me himself. The strict observance of this law
must be a constant obstacle to the progress of art; but the
same law given to the Jews did not prevent their following
this craft, and the semblance of idolatry continued even in
the early Christian church; the Prophet alone has cleared
places of public worship of all appearances of idolatry and
form.
A general stir among the Greeks in the khan induced me
to look out, and I found that among the crowds of turbaned
people leaving the mosque, was the Pasha; a few soldiers
escorted him from the door to his richly caparisoned horse;
his own dress was the modern European, and over it a com-
mon blue cloth cloak: the red fez and a diamond locket were
the only features unlike an European gentleman. A little
eastern form still lingered about his suite; a white horse, sad-
dled and covered with scarlet velvet and trappings of gold,
was led in front to prance and display its attitudes, which
were beautiful, as it reared and curveted almost upon the
same spot; at a suitable distance followed the Pasha, on a
black horse, led by grooms on either side, with a number of
attendants around. In the rear followed a still more popular
personage, with the crowds of children and women who had
MOOLAH.
285
assembled at a respectful distance; this officer threw into
the air handfuls of small coin, which were scrambled for in
an amusing manner by the children, rolling over each other
on the road.
March 28th, Cagiolasolhucooe. — After copying a frag-
ment of an inscription, we left Hoolah this morning at
half-past nine o'clock, and in five hours arrived here. The
change of climate, season, and consequent appearance of the
country is most striking. I was prepared for this by my pre-
vious travels, but at that time I was carried from spring back
to winter: the spring is now opening before me, and this
change has taken place within a few hours. Moolah and
Hoolah are situated about 2500 feet above the sea. We have
already descended considerably to this place, which is still
in the mountains, but they are clothed with rich soil, foster-
ing a luxuriant vegetation under the genial aspect of the south.
I repeat the opinion I have before expressed, that the most
perfectly beautiful scenery I have ever seen is displayed in
this portion of Caria, the ancient Peræa, and Lycia; and
how little is it known to the lovers of the beautiful in
Europe, and how little appreciated by its present pastoral
inhabitants! They are however apparently a happy people,
and seem to enjoy long lives.
We are now sitting in a kind of stranger's house, the only
one of stone or deserving the name of a hut in this village,
for the walls of the others are all of wicker-work, with a roof
formed of shivers of the fir-tree. This house is the property
of an old man, who sits before me, and expresses great anxiety
that I should give him something to "cure his eyes;" he
says they are of no use to him, and that he might as well
have them poisoned at once: I observe nevertheless that he
walks about and pries into everything around him. He is
more than one hundred years of age, and has been here
all his life, excepting a visit to Stambool seventy years ago.
He sees well enough to point out at a distance of a hundred
286
CARIA.
and fifty yards a woman carrying two large pitchers of water
from the river up the hill to his private house. She is his
wife, and is one hundred and two years of age; a little
turbaned boy is running by her side, apparently more of
a companion than a guide, for she walks with a firm step,
and has her sight and hearing still perfect.
Dollomón, March 31st.-It is unnecessary for me to re-
mark the geological and botanical features of this country,
which I noticed in my former Journal. The recent changes in
the people of this country strike me most forcibly. The time
was, when the Turk was regarded as unchangeable; but the
two years since my last visit, and even almost the last month,
have witnessed a total change in the country. The Aga, in
common with all the governors above him in rank, farmed
the district of the Sultan, and was for his year of office a
little king, generally acting with liberal hospitality to all
around, and particularly to the stranger; of course even-
tually the cost of this fell upon the people of the district,
and the ostentatious establishment of the governor must
have been a heavy tax. The case is now altered. Each
governor is a mere agent, sent generally from Constantinople,
to collect all taxes for his master the Sultan: he has a fixed
salary.
When I was here last, the large court-yard and surround-
ing galleries of the establishment or konak in which I am
now sitting, were all animation, and full fifty people were
assembled to stare at my little train departing. I now ar-
rived with a much larger suite, and not a person was to be
seen; at last appeared a servant and the son of the Aga, who
welcomed me and offered me an excellent room in his konak;
he inquired if we wanted anything, and directed his servant
to buy for us firewood and bread, for which a charge was
made. After us arrived a Turk of rank, with his accustomed
state; but on entering, to claim his usual entertainment, he
was informed that all he required would be obtained for him,
·
PEREA.
287
and a room was at his service, but that no table was now
kept by the Aga. All are treated alike, and no popularity
will now serve the agent appointed from Constantinople;
he therefore only acts on the directions from that court, and,
like agents from other nations, he will become the paid re-
presentative of his sovereign, and will live according to his
salary. The people do not yet understand how the change
can take place; and when told of the equality of the Greek
as a subject, they almost doubt the Sultan's faith in the
laws of the Prophet. The manners of the people are not so
soon changed; of this I have during the last two days had
several instances, showing their hospitality and simplicity,
and have remarked also the customs which have probably
descended from the early inhabitants of this country.
Continuing our route through the beautiful district be-
tween Hoolah and Koogez, we reached the latter place early
in the afternoon, and enjoyed the lovely view of the bay from
a small island close to the town occupied by a few Greek
families. The governor's large house, in which I had before
lodged, was now filled with people. A Bey had arrived, and
had with him a number of half-drilled soldiers, and every
ruined portion of the old Derebbe barracks was occupied;
we were therefore lodged in a miserable apartment in one of
the very few houses in the village. The poor accommoda-
tion soon made us wish to leave it, and we started early on
our way hither, crossing the river Ooalah-chi, which empties.
itself into the eastern side of the bay. Every person we met
during the first three hours of our journey told the same
tale, of the impossibility of passing the great river called
Dollomon-chi, which would cross our road at four hours' dis-
tance from Koogez; with this assurance we left the track,
and travelled northward for an hour, to a few huts, of
which the farming establishment of the chief proprietor
of the flocks in that district consists. A large shed was
allotted to us by one of the brothers of our host, whilst an-
288
CARIA.
other undertook to be our guide to some ruins about two
miles distant, in the hills to the south-west.
The excursion was a pleasant one, but like many others I
have made, our guides being people who cannot conceive our
motive for seeking old walls, it failed to satisfy the pursuit of
an antiquarian. We found a rocky hill beautifully situated
in the midst of its little valley: the summit was covered with
ruined walls, but their construction indicates the age of the
Derebbe, or the defended position of some lawless chief
of a few centuries ago. The walls were of the worst style
of art, without buttress, window, or break, except for the
protruding natural rock on which it rested. On arriving
at this rock we at once perceived from its commanding situa-
tion that we were only separated from the bay of Koogez
by a narrow range of mountains, and that our course had
been more parallel with the coast than the maps indi-
cate.
On our return to our hut, we found that Mania had killed
a sheep, and with supplies of kymac and milk had provided
against our future wants; for our party is too large to move
with the independence and speed that I enjoyed on my last
tour. We have for a few days the addition of a Greek, who
acts as a local guide amidst the swamps which are so preva-
lent in valleys at this season.
The evening afforded us much amusement: our apartment
was large, and walled for about five feet high, nearly to the
eaves of the roof, with wattled or wicker-work fencing, and
this has been partially plastered with mud; the gable ends.
to the east and west were open to the stars of a brilliant but
exceedingly cold night. A large fire, lighted at one end of
this inclosure, was the point of attraction in the room, but
its smoke, driven in all directions by the wind, was not quite
agreeable to eyes unaccustomed to its pungency: our hut
had no door, and our cheerful fire was a beacon to all the
peasants of this little place, and it would be difficult to de-
PEREA.
289
scribe either by pen or pencil the singular and highly pic-
turesque effect of the assembled groups.
There is something peculiarly elegant in the attitudes and
manners of these people, be their rank high or low: by all
classes the etiquette of rank is observed, for our Zoorigees,
with one or two servants of the farm, formed the background
of the scene, and scarcely appeared, except when the blaze
of the fire was replenished with fresh logs of wood. Twelve
or fourteen Turks, all varying in dress, yet each rich and
costly, sat around the fire, while we reclined at our table.
Mania was cooking, and as usual had to answer the many
inquiries of the wondering peasants respecting the strangers.
A lute or guitar, which is found in almost every hut in
this country, was soon sounded, and a youth, one of our
hosts, played several airs, all extremely singular, but simple,
wild, and some very harmonious. One slow melody we admired,
and were told that it was a dance; the circle was enlarged,
and our Cavass stood in the midst, and danced in a most
singular manner the dance, as he called it, of the Yourooks
or shepherds; it was accompanied with much grimace, was
in slow time, and furnished a good study for attitudes. He
was succeeded by a Greek, and I never was more struck
than by the accurate representation of the attitudes dis-
played in the fauns and bacchanal figures of the antique.
Mr. Scharf had, unknown to me, sketched some of them;
the uplifted and curved arm, the bending head, the raised
heel, and the displayed muscles-for all the party had bare
legs and feet-exactly resembled the figures of ancient Greek
sculpture. The snapping the finger, in imitation of casta-
nets, was in admirable time to the lute accompaniment.
This is not a dance for exercise or sociability, as our modern
northern dances appear; it is a pas seul, slow in movement,
and apparently more studied than even the performance of
Taglioni: and whence do these tented peasants learn it?
they have no schools for such accomplishments, no opera,
O
290
CARIA.
nor any theatrical representation; but the tradition, if it
may be so called, is handed down by the boys dancing for
the amusement of the people at their weddings and galas.
28



The attention and apparent quiet gratification of the whole
party also formed a feature unknown to this class of people.
in any other nation. The musician appeared the least inter-

pak mały
PEREA.
291
ested of the party, and continued his monotonous tune with
mechanical precision. Each guest, whose sole attraction was
a feeling of sociability, for there was no repast, nor did he
expect it, lighted his torch of turpentine-wood, and retired
to his tent or shed.
In the morning we started to attempt to cross the river,
which was gradually subsiding; and we heard, among a
variety of reports, that its passage was now practicable.
Riding for an hour and a half, and regaining our track of
the previous day, we arrived on the banks of the ancient
river Calbis, now called Dollomonchi. Arrangements were
made among the peasants for getting us across; the depth
of the water, whose stream was very rapid, was found to be
just the height of a man's shoulder, and thirteen men under-
took to transport us, with all our horses and baggage, safely
over. They all stripped naked, except their turbaned head
and girded loins, and as each seized an article of the bag-
gage, and shouldered it, they formed a fine group of figures
for the study of an Academy. They soon were in the deep
waters; one bearing a package on his head, while two others
accompanied him in order to steady it, and assist him in
stemming the stream. We each followed on our horses,
which were led by one man, and guided against the stream
by another, and were all safely landed on the eastern banks
of this very considerable river.
Hearing a shout from our shivering naked attendants, I
asked its meaning, and found that they had received their
pay, and with one accord uttered a cry expressive of their
satisfaction, and hoping God would bless us, for he was good.
They all hastened into the river, swimming and dancing, to
show that eight or ten passages of its waters had not tired
them.
I must mention one feature, which, I regret to say, seems
to be almost peculiar to these people. We were Franks-
supposed as usual to be rich, mylordos: we must cross the
02
292
CARIA.
river, and had no alternative; we called the people from
their homes and work as we passed their tents; no one else
had before crossed this river, and these men did not wish to
attempt it, nor did they approve our plan; notwithstanding
this, no bargain was made, no advantage taken of us, and
when all were over, they left us to fix the backshish, or present-
money*; although they received a trifling difference of
amount, each man being paid in proportion to his exertions,
they all cried out that they were satisfied, and blessed us.
April 1st.—An unfortunate date! We delayed proceed-
ing towards Macry, in order to see some ruins, said to be
those of an ancient Greek city, whence many coins had been
brought it was situated upon an isolated rocky hill, in the
midst of the extensive plains of Dollomon.
:
Our search has been fruitless; the day is spent, and we
have found only a few rude stones, which may probably have
been the walls of some hold of a robber a few centuries ago;
nevertheless in this, as in many other instances, I felt a cer-
tain satisfaction in knowing that we have left nothing un-
seen. I am speaking of sight-seeing; the mere act of travelling
in this country is itself pleasurable; everything is beautiful,
and much new to an European eye.
This valley of Dollomon is perhaps fifteen miles wide, and
bounded on the north by a range of mountains thirty miles
distant. Its southern end is the sea-coast; every variety of
scenery is displayed, from the misty horizon, broken by the
mountainous island of Rhodes in the south-west, to the
towering snow-topped heights peering above the richly-
wooded crags of the mountains to the north-east; still richer
hills surround the valley, which is too much overgrown
with trees and thickets for cultivation. Amidst the rich
swampy soil the elm, plane, and peach are almost borne down
by the vines, clematis, and creepers; and the myrtle, olean-
* The pay averaged six piastres (1s. 2d.) each.
PERAA.
293
der, and the pomegranate cover the banks of every stream.
The plains, which need much the capital and skill of the
Lincolnshire farmer, are alive with the camels, buffalos, and
breeding horses, while the large tortoise creeps along amidst
the numerous plovers, quails, and snipes. The flowers are
less varied than on the hills, and the swampy ground makes
it impossible for us to dismount and gather additions to our
botanical collection.
294
CHAPTER XVII.
INCONVENIENCE FOR WANT OF CORN.—ANCIENT TOMBS.—CUSTOMS OF
THE PEOPLE.-PECULIAR ARCHITECTURE.-DISCOVERY OF CALYNDA.
-NATURAL HISTORY.-TELMESSUS.-TOMBS, WORKS OF ART.-PE-
CULIAR CLIMATE.-HOOZUMLEE.-ITS INHABITANTS.—STATE OF THE
ARTS AMONG THE ANCIENT LYCIANS.-DISCOVERY OF CADYANDA.-
ITS RUINS.-VALLEY OF THE XANTHUS.—HOORAHN, ANCIENT TOMBS
AND RUINS OF ARAXA.
April 2nd.—But little barley is grown in this district, and
none is now to be obtained at any price for our cavalcade of
horses; they have obstinately rejected maize, which is the
only corn for man or horse hereabouts, and the grass is not
sufficiently grown for the cattle to graze. The consequence.
is, that we are able only to move forward on our fainting
nags three or four hours a day: even at this slow pace they
fall occasionally, injuring the baggage and causing delay;
this inconvenience has just afforded me some amusement,
from witnessing the simple habits of the people. After as-
cending a range of mountains, and descending by a steep
track through a highly picturesque pass, we arrived, in four
hours from Dollomon, at a beautiful ravine in the moun-
tains, where we found a few wicker huts, and near them for
the first time we pitched our tents, in order to depasture
the horses on the scanty herbage around us. The huts were
searched for barley, as had been every tent on the way;
here, in one alone, we found some, which the owner did not
";
CALYNDA.
295
wish to part with, it being his last store. Money was re-
fused, but the little stock was at last given to us, as well
as some bread newly-baked, and in return we gave a joint
and the head of a kid, which we had bought and killed on the
road; a little gunpowder and a present to the boy completed
this friendly barter, and I just arrived in time to witness the
excitement among the half-starved horses, whose impatience
at seeing each nose-bag receiving its portion of corn was
most amusing.
At this little place of Beenajah-cooe we found ample
occupation, until it was too late to ramble among the over-
hanging rocks. We have seen around us for two miles
tombs excavated in the cliffs, and one which we passed near
the road was highly ornamented as a temple, cut out of the
rock, similar to the many I had seen in Lycia, and described
at Telmessus. This specimen had triglyphs, and in its pe-
diment were two shields: I regret that we did not make
careful drawings of it, but our guide assured us that thou-
sands of better ones were around the village a mile or two
in advance. Thousands is in the East used as an indefinite
number, but in this instance it was probably no exaggeration,
for tombs appeared on every cliff as we travelled eastward
up this beautiful valley.
Geological causes have generally given the first features to
the country; and here the division between the changing rocks
was marked by a valley, formed probably in some degree by
a river, which almost always finds its course at these transi-
tion points. On our left, the comparatively round mountains
of a schisty serpentine were stained with an ochry red earth,
and wooded with pines; while those on our left were grey,
with the silvery crags of the marble range enriched by their
peculiar stains of orange, red, and yellow; on every ledge
were varieties of luxuriant vegetation. Behind us was the
Gulph of Macry, with its numerous grey islands scattered
on the blue sea, and the whole scene was backed by the dis-
296
LYCIA.
tant mountains of the south coast of Caria, raising their
snowy peaks into the sky.
Our guide in these mountain excursions is generally any
peasant whom we meet by chance in the woods. The man
now attending us has his gun, and seems to live by it, or
rather it appears his only occupation; he professes to know
every hole in the mountains, having long pursued his sports-
man's life in the neighbourhood, and offers to accompany us
as far as Macry; his pay is a present of about sixpence a
day, and he eats with the men. I have observed a striking
feature in the character of these men: on being hired, they
always say, by way of showing their independence, "I have
no mother; I can go anywhere with you; no one depends
upon me.'
These anecdotes serve to mark the devotional
respect to parents, which I noticed so often on my former
visit. Our present guide, who wears sandals exactly like
those seen in the antique figures, led us high into the crags
""

which we had seen above us, where we found the greatest
collected number of cave tombs. Here, between two ridges
of rocks, was the commanding site of an ancient city. Many
large squared stones lie in heaps down the slope facing the
east, and the valley is guarded by walls of a very early date
of Greek workmanship. Huge irregular masses of rock
form the lower parts of these early Cyclopean fabrics, and
are piled into the face of the protruding rocks below; while
the upper part, of smaller unwrought stones, is packed in
with still smaller. This mode of construction is doubtless
of earlier date than the Pelasgic walls, so generally seen in
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CALYNDA.
297

DANG
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142
the cities of this district. The crown of the high mountain
peaks on the south had been also surrounded by walls of the
same kind, and in some instances the gothic-formed sarco-
phagi were carved out of the protruding peaks of the rock;
the heavy top alone added to form the sepulchre.
In my former rambles in Asia Minor I observed that each
district had a peculiarity in the architecture of its tombs,
and that none was more distinctly marked than that of
the ancient Lycia. The four kinds of tombs represented in
the annexed Plate, I have found, are peculiar to Lycia, and
may serve in part as tests of the extent of that country. I
shall call these the Obelisk, the Gothic, and the Elizabethan
forms; the first from its appearance, and the latter as strongly
resembling the architectural styles so named. With these
forms I have generally found the Lycian language connected,
and two or more of them appear in every ancient city found
in that district*. Applying this architectural test, I at once
determined this to be a city within the confines of Lycia,
and as such could be none else but the ancient Calynda,
which, according to Herodotust, was beyond the boundaries.
* The tombs selected for this plate are from Antiphellus, Tlos, and
Xanthus.
+ Clio, 172.
03
298
LYCIA.
of Caria, the early inhabitants of which district are repre-
sented as pursuing and expelling the foreign gods from their
country, and " stopping not until they came to the moun-
tains of Calynda." This range must have been the one down
whose beautiful valleys we had for some hours been travelling.
Calynda, if this was the site of the city, was high up in the
mountains, but not far from the sea, where it probably had
its port, as we know that it supplied ships to the fleet of
Xerxes. From the situation and remains of the city, I con-
clude that it cannot have been very large, but, from its re-
maining tombs, it may have existed for many generations,
and probably at an early period.
To feel surprised at the ordinary occurrences in nature
may often bespeak my ignorance, but for the information of
those who do not study natural history, I shall nevertheless.
mention as I proceed whatever may strike me as unusual or
curious. Some weeks ago, at Naslee, I mentioned having
seen a small green frog* sitting on a sunny bank of sand,
and apparently deserting the water; I here saw another of
the same kind, some feet above the ground, sitting against
the stem of a dead shrub, as thick as my little finger. I
called to my companions to come and see a frog in a tree,
as a fish out of water. On being noticed, the little fellow,
to our surprise, leaped upon a thinner and higher branch, and
again upon the point of a twig not thicker than a crow-quill,
and sat there swinging, with all his legs together, like the
goats on the pointed rocks above us, or as the bears sit
upon their pole at the Zoological Gardens in London. On
inquiry I find that this description of frog always frequents.
the trees; it is seldom in the water, and enjoys basking in
the hottest places. Some fine moths and butterflies are
coming out, and I regret the impossibility of collecting in-
sects on an equestrian tour in so rough a country; it affords
* Rana arborea.
TELMESSUS.
299
a fine field for the study of this and every other branch of
natural history.
Macry, April 6th.-This little port, which stands amidst
the ruins of the ancient Telmessus, is more interesting, on
examination, than I fancied it could be from my hasty survey
two years ago; but its strongest feature of interest is its
tombs. I have now been tempted to sketch many more, by
their picturesque position and form; but I find most of
them are covered with inscriptions, many of which have be-
come illegible from the decomposition of the stone, as well
as from the nature of the rocks themselves, which when first
wrought must have had an irregular surface from its con-
glomerate formation. I observe that, to remedy this, it has
been in many places plastered over before it was inscribed.
The inscriptions on the tombs cut in the rocks are again
rendered more imperfect by the filtering waters from above,
which depositing their stalactitic matter encrust the whole
surface. I have however deciphered many upon the differ-
ent tombs, and some on pedestals built into the mysterious
walls which stand along the coast.
From the circumstance of the fragments of Greek work-
manship being used as rough material, and the quality and
nature of the cement, these walls were probably of Roman or
possibly of Venetian date. To me the inscriptions acquired
increased interest from finding several in the Lycian charac-
ters, which I had seen so generally used in the city of Xan-
thus. In the frontier towns of Lycia I had hoped to have
found some bilingual inscriptions, but have not yet suc-
ceeded in this pursuit*. Among the coins found here, I have
many belonging to this country, and to the neighbouring
Rhodian colonies on the coast of the Perea.
These may
* On a subsequent visit, recounted in the latter part of this volume,
I was more fortunate. Casts of bilingual inscriptions found here are
now in the British Museum.
300
LYCIA.
assist in throwing some light upon the history of this in-
teresting portion of Asia Minor.
The peculiarities in the architectural detail are very re-
markable in these early specimens of represented build-
ings in the rocks. They show distinctly the imitation of
wooden structures, and by the nature of the joists, ties, and
mouldings, give a perfect insight into the knowledge of the
construction of ancient Greek buildings. The panelled doors,
with bossed nails on the styles, knockers suspended from
lions' mouths, and other ornaments in the panels, also show
much taste and accuracy of execution. Those tombs here
which would rank among the great divisions or orders of
architecture, are of the Ionic, and evidently in its earliest or
simplest form; I have seen none of the Doric. It is re-
markable that this district, which is part of the ancient Doris,
exhibits several peculiar features in its architecture, but none
of the so-called Doric. I remember being struck by a similar
coincidence at Corinth; not a fragment of the Corinthian
style was to be found, and a ruined temple of the plain
Doric stands conspicuously on the site of the ancient city.
In some instances bas-reliefs remain on the sarcophagi, and
these are always of an early, simple, and good age; I have
seen no trace of the inferior art of the Romans, or of later
times; the coins also show the purest style of Greek art.
ASTM 200

Macry, April 7th.-Yesterday we were weather-bound;
the rain fell heavily the whole day, and gave us an oppor-
TELMESSUS.
301
tunity of pursuing our occupations within our little lodging.
I am sorry to find my collection of plants is badly preserved;
they increase so rapidly, that from the constant moisture of
the paper they soon discolour and decay. We occupied our
time also in arranging sketches and obtaining information
as to ruins in the neighbourhood from the Greeks, who
each had coins for sale, all found in cities at present un-
mapped and unknown by us. I fear my time will allow me
but imperfectly to visit Lycia alone, for this small district
abounds in the works of its former highly civilized people.
Hoozumlee, April 7th.-We have just arrived at six o'clock
this evening, and escaped a tremendous storm, which is now
thundering as it wraps its clouds around the mountains above
us. I despaired of fine weather at Macry, knowing its peculiar
situation, and, contrary to the opinion of my servant, I persisted
in quitting the place, although the rain was falling in large
drops. I had noticed the effects in the atmosphere at Macry
when last there, and during the three days at this season the
same causes produce their effects. The warm westerly wind
has each morning brought with it showers from over the sea;
and no sooner do they pass the bay than the colder current
of air coming down from the central country about noon
drives back the clouds and the showers are repeated. The
eddying of the atmosphere during the hot weather only pro-
duced partial condensation of clouds, and the heated winds
were driven back towards the sea. The wind, although
varying during the morning and night, has always for two
or three hours at noon changed to the north-east, and the
prediction of a stranger respecting the weather would pro-
bably be little worthy the character of the ancient sooth-
sayers of Telmessus. The peculiar situation of the bay of
Macry may also account for the changes in the elevation of
its waters; but from inquiry, and from observing the equal
and permanent marks upon the stones and rocks caused by
the sea, I ascertained that there is here felt a change which
may almost be mistaken for a tide, probably occasioned by
302
LYCIA.
the regular winds. In many places I had visited in the
Mediterranean, there is certainly no tide perceptible. I was
noticing a curious gauge for the waters on the fine sarco-
phagus seen standing in the sea, which is on many accounts
an interesting monument for contemplation; the subjoined
sketch will show the present level of the sea, by the high- and

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low-water marks, which vary about two feet, as well as that
of the surface of the ground.
From many other tombs precisely similar in form, and
which I have seen and sketched in various cities in Lycia, I
venture to supply the base, which I doubt not lies buried in
the earth; thus making this tomb a register of a great change
in the level of the ground, while its massive top, shaken
from its original position, indicates an earthquake to have
CADYANDA.
303
been the cause of such change.
As a work of art amongst
an early and refined people, it also stands a valuable monu-
ment; but time has partially veiled its history, for the bas-
reliefs only suggest an outline of more simple beauty than is
found in any age but that of the purest Greek art.
On leaving Macry, we crossed the valley towards the
north-east, and continued in that direction ascending for
three hours and a half through a beautiful pass along the
side of a torrent, which leaped continually from rock to rock
in its rapid course; but our ascent was still steeper, for the
river was often rolling in a ravine many hundred feet below
us. The waters of the stream diminished as we proceeded,
and on our reaching the little plain of this village they
appeared to claim it as their birth-place.
The well-cultivated valley of Hoozumlee was as unex-
pected to us at such an elevation, which by the thermometer
exceeds two thousand feet, as was the population and well-
built village.
The latter has three or four mosques, and
is wholly inhabited by Turks; one Greek alone is here, who
is employed in keeping in repair the various watercourses
for the supply of the fountains from the lofty and craggy
mountains which rise immediately at the back of the vil
lage. We are at the house of the Aga, and have witnessed
a curious scene each evening. It is seldom that thirty men
so handsome in form, features, and dress, assemble in the
same room; they are probably the principal people of the
place. Not a trace of European costume is yet seen here;
scarcely a man has ever left his mountain district, and every-
thing about us was novel to them. I doubt whether in any
other part of the world such a spirit of inquiry and quick-
ness of comprehension would be met with in a similar vil-
lage group. Our knives, instruments, pencils, India-rubber,
and paints, were examined and tolerably well understood
by most of the party. The pencil I gave to one was soon
employed in writing a sentence in the Turkish language,
which I found was the date of our arrival, and the name of
304
LYCIA.
the writer of the memorandum. We then wrote something
in English, which was copied in facsimile, well and quickly
executed. The remarks were natural expressions of wonder,
but all showing reflection. The washing, the prayer, the
dinner, and the reading aloud the firman, were subjects for
an artist. Our sketch-books were a great source of asto-
nishment to all; some looked at them the wrong way up-
wards, but all said " Allah, Allah!" They recognized in the
sketches the mosques, camels, birds, and a frog, with the
greatest expressions of delight.
April 8th. Our attraction to this place was the report
that ruins existed in the neighbourhood. We therefore
started at eight o'clock this morning to ascend the mountain
to the south. Scarcely beyond the south-east end of the
village, and in less than ten minutes, we found among the
bushes a tomb of the most usual kind cut in the rocks,
resembling our Elizabethan domestic architecture. This
tomb has been much shaken to pieces, apparently by an
earthquake, but the detail of its execution we found to be
of the highest interest. I do not hesitate in placing this
fragment in the finest age of Greek work; it shows by
the simplest effects the full expression of the history and
ideas of the sculptured figures. Had they been all perfect,
its value in a museum, either for the philologist, antiquarian
or artist, would be inestimable. We made drawings of a
portion, and sketches in outline of the whole, which I think
will bear out this opinion of them as works of art, and may
afford an idea of some of its bas-reliefs *.
Great additional interest is given to these groups by the
circumstance of several of the figures having over them
their names, after the manner of the Etruscan; these in-
scriptions are in the Lycian language, and some bilingual
with the Greek; this, I trust, will materially assist in throw-
ing light upon our ignorance as to the Lycian language, and
* These may be seen in the frontispiece and plates of my former work.
CADYANDA.
305
these sculptures may also be important illustrations. Bas-
reliefs formed the upper part or panels of the sides of the
tomb, beneath which were groups of larger figures engaged
in combat, with arms of the simplest age of the Greeks.
These figures were too much buried in the earth for us to
attempt to sketch them. The name of EKTOP was written
over one with a helmet, round shield, and spear. Above the
side-panels, and probably on what once formed the roof, were
also the remains of five sculptured figures, of a similar size
to the combatants below. The panel of the door in front
shows a figure about five feet six inches in height.
I I PAр ↑ O ^ AAYA

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306
LYCIA.
The costumes, arms, vases, and utensils, displayed in
these bas-reliefs are a study for the man of refined taste :
the height of some of the figures in the back-ground is un-
accountable.

Continuing for about a mile a steep ascent, we saw
around us immense masses of rock rolled from their original
position, and some containing excavated tombs, now thrown
on their sides or leaning at angles, which must have caused
the disentombment of their dead. The sculptured archi-
tecture of many had been split across, and but few remained
uninjured in the cliffs. I sought in vain for inscriptions on
any of the tombs around, probably twenty in number; their
architecture was purely Lycian, and evidently of the same
date as the one just described as found in the valley below.
A splendid sarcophagus cut from the rock was tottering over
the brow of a precipice before me: the position at which
this tomb now stands appears so unnatural, that I have ac-
curately sketched it. The outlines of its bas-reliefs, as well
as its form, indicate its age to be that of the Lycians, and,
in the absence of inscriptions, must suffice to tell its his-
tory: the figures are nearly the size of life*. If inscriptions
had ever existed upon these tombs, the surface has so much
* On a subsequent visit I discovered a Lycian inscription on this
monument.
CADYANDA.
307
perished by the atmosphere, that they would have probably
been lost or illegible; for I observe that all inscriptions of
this age are slightly cut, and never form a part of, or inter-
fere with, the effect of the groups or architecture. All the
indications in the approach to this unknown city were Lycian,
not omitting the remains of ingeniously built Cyclopean
walls.
Ascending for half an hour a steep scarcely accessible on
horses, we arrived at an elevation of about three thousand
five hundred feet above the sea, which lay before us. The
view was overwhelmingly beautiful. To the south-west lay
the Bay of Macry, with its islands and the coast of the south
of Caria, while beyond lay the long and mountainous island
of Rhodes. Cragus, with its snowy tops, broke the view
towards the south, and the coast and sea off Patara mea-
sured its elevation by carrying the eye down to the valley
of the Xanthus, whose glittering waters were visible for pro-
bably seventy miles, until lost in the range of high moun-
tains, upon a part of which we were standing; in this chain
it has its rise in the north. The crags of limestone around
us were almost concealed by a forest of fir-trees and green
underwood. Before us was the city, surrounded by beauti-
ful Cyclopean walls.
The scattered stones of a fallen temple next interrupted
our path, on the way to the stadium: neither of its ends re-
mained, and I feel sure that they have never been built up
with seats, as seen in some of probably a later date. To
the right of this stadium was the agora: eight squared pil-
lars or piers stand on either side. For nearly a quarter of
a mile the ground was covered like a mason's yard with
stones well squared, parts of columns, cornices, triglyphs,
and pedestals, and here and there stood still erect the jambs
of the doors of buildings whose foundations alone are to
be traced. Near the stadium some large walls with win-
dows are still standing, and enclose places which have pro-
308
LYCIA.
bably been for public amusements. The city is in many
parts undermined by chambers cut in the rocks, and arched
over with fine masonry: these no doubt were the basements
or vaults of the large buildings of the town, or may have
served for its stores of provisions; at present they are the
wonder and terror of the peasants, who relate, that in one
great vault into which they had entered there were seven
doors, all leading in different directions. This report has
given the name of Yeddy Cappolee, meaning “seven doors,”
to the ruins, as well as to the mountain on which they stand.
We descended toward the west, and came to the upper seats
of a beautiful little theatre, in high preservation, a few large
fir-trees alone interrupting the effect of the semicircle of
seats. The proscenium was a heap of ruins, only one or two
of its door-ways being left standing. The form of the theatre
was like those in the east of Caria: in front were the Cyclo-

・DI
pean walls of the city, blended with the more regular Greek,
and evidently constructed at the same period. From this
CADYANDA.
309
spot, for a quarter of a mile, were tombs, neither cut in the
rocks, nor sarcophagi, nor of the usual architecture of Lycia,
but of a heavy, peculiar, and massive style of building, not
generally associated with our ideas of the Greek: there was
no trace of bas-reliefs or ornaments, and not a letter of the
Lycian character among the numerous inscriptions, which
were Greek, and much injured by time. I copied the fol-
lowing among others*, which are of interest, as in them I
discovered the name of the city to be Cadyanda.
The total difference of these tombs in style from the ele-
gant and highly-wrought specimens nearly two miles down
the side of the mountain, and the difference of language in
the inscriptions, made me inquire whether any other ruins.
existed lower down, but I could hear of none.
Returning to the village, we found the principal people
again assembled to see us, and all we had to show them.
We learned that no European had before been up to see the
ruins, but that some Franks had last year been as far as
their village, and had bought some coins; eight or nine I
found in the possession of a man who had picked them up
in the ruins. Hoping to learn from them something of the
ancient city, I told my servant to buy them, and he was in
a violent rage at the exorbitant price demanded; in his pas-
sion he forgot his nation, and said a Turk would never think
of asking such a price, and that the owner of them was an
imposing rogue. I found this man was the solitary Greek,
whose occupation of digging drains had led him to discover
the coins he was anxious to get all he could, but like a
Greek, he took less than half he had at first asked.
:
April 9th. After a lovely ride for about fifteen miles to
the south-east, over a wooded range of mountains, and de-
scending into the valley of the Xanthus, we arrived at the
*The inscriptions here referred to are inserted in the Appendix to my
larger volume.
310
LYCIA.
village of Hoorahn*. For three or four miles before cross-
ing the main branch of the river, we traversed the well-cul-
tivated and productive district called Sarzarkee, passing a
tomb cut in the rock by the road-side, and bearing a frag-
ment of a Lycian inscription. Crossing the muddy stream
which gives the colour and name to the Xanthus river, and
riding for nearly a mile through a bushy swamp, we came to
a rock rising fifteen or twenty feet above the plain, and
about a mile from the village of Hoorahn. This rock was
cut in all directions with tombs, many of them being of a
style of architecture differing from those we had before seen.
Several I have sketched, and from one have copied a few
Greek letters, which are upon the panels of a door cut in the
rock.
Immediately before arriving at the village, we passed
another burial-ground of the ancient city, but the natural
rock was not here so favourable for architectural excavation,
and hundreds of broken sarcophagi lay half buried in the
ground; in fact, many of them had the grave within the
rock, scarcely above the surface, and the cavity had been
covered with a lid of a peculiar form, having a tablet for in-
scription raised on its roof, which could not be placed in the
usual position, upon the side of the sarcophagus itself; the
Greek characters could be traced upon them, but they were
too much injured by time to be deciphered. The ancient
city, whose site is now occupied by the village and its sur-
rounding fields, had a fine and singular situation; it was
slightly raised above the valley of the Xanthus, and appears
to have commanded a ravine or gorge in the mountains at
its back, down which gushes a large and extremely rapid
river of clear water, and, running towards the south-west,
soon joins, or almost forms, the river Xanthus the small
muddy stream which waters the valley from its commence-
:
* By an inscription found at Hoorahn in 1842, by the late Rev.
E. Daniel, this was fixed as the site of the ancient Araxa.
•
-
ARAXA.
311
ment towards the north, and from the sandy colour of which
it derives its name, forms but a diminutive portion, as com-
pared with the river now roaring under our hut.
Of the ancient city but little remains; the higher part has
been surrounded by a fine Cyclopean wall, although the large
irregular stones composing it were chiselled round their
edges, forming the cushion-shaped fronts used in many of
the early Greek buildings, and since adopted by the Italians;
this mode is termed, I believe, rusticated. The basement
and walls of several other buildings are also still standing,
and a number of broken columns and pedestals show the
remains of an ornamented city.
In the yard of one house we were taken to see some beau-
tiful pavements, formed in elegant patterns, with small
different-coloured slabs of marble. These pavements had
formed the floors of three different apartments, each pro-
bably not more than eight feet square, and all very near to-
gether; one was of small stones, of the size, and quite similar
in arrangement to, the Roman mosaic: these buildings, from
their dimensions, can have been only baths.
I have obtained but few coins here, for the people only
preserve silver or gold ones, which may serve as ornaments;
they have never before had visitors to see their ruins, and
cannot understand our motives for seeking copper coins, or
for travelling. They tell us that their country is filled with
ruins; and we have this morning been a ride and laborious
walk up a mountain, nearly at the upper extremity of the
valley, in search of old cities: there are however only the
traces of some rude Cyclopean walls around the craggy
summit of the hill; the absence of other buildings and
tombs leads me to suppose it to have been only a fortified
castle on the eastern side of the valley: directly opposite
to this, on the west side, was a point covered with similar
ruins.
Our excursion to-day of six miles has given us a more
312
LYCIA.
perfect idea of the valley; we have at least ascertained that
nothing more is to be found in this direction, and are now
satisfied that our research commenced at its northern ex-
tremity: to-morrow we intend to pursue our route down its
course to the south-west.
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313
CHAPTER XVIII.
ARCHITECTURE; ROCKS, BUILDINGS, COTTAGES, GRANARIES.-TLOS.-
ROCK-TOMBS. ANCIENT SCULPTURE.-MINARA, THE ANCIENT PINARA.
-RUINS.-BAS-RELIEFS IN TOMBS.-HABITS OF THE PEOPLE.
K
April 11th.—I am again much struck on entering this undis-
turbed district of Asia Minor, at witnessing the unchanged
customs of the people; everything tells of the ancient in-
habitants of two or three thousand years ago, whose mode
of life probably differed but little from that of the present
pastoral people.
The annexed Plate* will show the varieties of rock-archi-
tecture, and the one following, those in the built tombs
seen in Lyciat. I have selected these from my sketches
made in the various cities, but placing them less thickly in
the rock than they are often seen in this country, and have
added figures referring to their several localities. The cot-
tage or hut is precisely a model for a temple; and the various
kinds (for all have the same character) suggest each some
form or order, whose peculiarity has become classic and
scientific: it is here only perpetuated, and not adopted, by
the present peasants.
* Nos. 1 and 6 at Araxa; 2, 3, and 4 at Telmessus; 5 and 8 at Tlos;
7, 9, and 12 at Pinara; 10 between Limyra and Arycanda; and 11 at
Limyra.
+ Nos. 1 and 8 at Telmessus; 2 and 5 at Cadyanda; 3 at Xanthus ;
4 and 6 at Sidyma; 7 at Calynda; and 9 at Araxa.
P
314
LYCIA.
The storehouses, large box-like barns, in which the grain
and property is preserved, are throughout this district seen,
and recognized by me as precisely similar, in form and de-
tail of apparent construction of ties and bolts, to the Eliza-
bethan description of tombs so commonly cut in the rocks
around them. These modern barns are in general slightly
roofed; the gable or pediment supports a pole at each of its
angles, the ends commonly protruding beyond the roof, which
is of thin planks, laid one over the other, and giving at the
end the effect of a cornice to the pediment, the whole of
which is never so well finished as the barns beneath, and
appears as a temporary covering: a slight pediment is like-
wise often seen accompanying this form of tomb, sculptured
in the rocks. The similarity of the storehouse represented
in the annexed sketch to the ancient tomb is strikingly ob-
vious; even the beam-ends may form the ornaments pro-
truding from the angles of the pediment.
In the various cottages, the roof, which is always of earth,
is held in its form by an attic of stones; upon this roof, as I
have often before mentioned, the Turks keep a roller for
levelling and rendering the earth water-tight; but at the
edges and on the corners, where the roller cannot press,
weeds often grow luxuriantly, and this suggests the tuft-like
leaf ornament so often seen in the Greek buildings rising
from the edge of the roofs. The Greek generally lives in a
hut built with more art and neatness, but still of a temple-
like form, as may be suggested by the sketch; his hut is
usually whitened, while that of the Turk is of mud, im-
bedding stones, sticks, or straw, as circumstances offer the
material. The walls never form the strength of the house,
which derives its support entirely from the framework of
timbers resting upon the columns or upright stems of trees
on the outside; stones placed under these, to prevent their
sinking into the ground, form bases, while the beams resting
upon their tops appear as capitals; in front, a stone or piece
VALLEY OF THE XANTHUS.
315
of wood is placed upon these posts, to support the ends of
the beams, which are the dentils in the frieze of this simple
little building.
In this portion of Asia Minor all the remains of the tem-
ples show a square chamber or cella, entered by an orna-
mented door of noble proportions; this is always within a
portico in antis, sometimes having two columns in front. I
have nowhere in Lycia seen any trace of temples that I could
say with certainty were of other construction. This form is
evidently seen in the huts here represented. Is it not highly
probable that these sketches may represent the huts and
storehouses of the people of three thousand years ago, which
at an after period were imitated in stone, and their forms cut
in the rocks, making the temple a large house, and the tomb
a durable receptacle for the dead? Time has witnessed
these changes; but the simple hut, which has served as the
abode of the peasants through successive generations to the
present day, has remained unaltered. This may at once ex-
plain the total absence of even the trace of the residence of
the people in the ancient Greek cities, as the materials would
not endure for half a century: the public buildings alone
remain to point out the extent of the cities. I think this
idea is borne out by the incidental testimony of history.
Herodotus speaks of the houses of the people of Sardis as
being of reeds and mud, and in still earlier days we know
that the whole of Athens was built of wood.
Our ride of about twenty-four miles from Hoorahn to
Dooveer was nearly due south; we crossed the smaller
muddy river, where it is divided into several streams, and
skirted the western side of the upper bay or enlargement of
the valley, until it became narrowed into a mere strait by
the
green wooded hills flanking either range of mountains.
Near this point is the village of Satala Hissá or Satala-cooe,
six hours to the east of Macry. Continuing our route, in
half an hour we arrived at a well-built bridge of five arches.
P 2
316
LYCIA.
crossing the bold river, which had received the important
addition from Hoorahn, as well as many other tributaries:
from this point we crossed diagonally the again widening
valley, and in half an hour passed a very considerable stream,
on its course to the river, issuing from a ravine in the moun-
tains towards the east, at the village of Koongelar. At a
distance of three miles from Dooveer, in passing near a rock
which protruded from the mountains, we were struck by a
strong sulphury smell, and saw a rapid stream of clear water
running near us, whose course was encrusted with a green-
ish-white deposit; this hot spring issues from the rock, and
I hear that the people use its waters medicinally; on first
gushing from its source they have not this smell, which
exudes upon exposure to the atmosphere. The whole ride
down this upper valley is beautiful, and varies continually;
its scenery, on approaching the bold and Greek-like situation
of the ancient city of Tlos, is strikingly picturesque. Leav-
ing our baggage at the lower village, we at once rode up
to the ancient city, on the acropolis of which many families
now reside: although an hour's ride distant, it also bears the
name of Dooveer, the few houses in the valley consisting
only of the Aga's residence and four or five water-mills.
April 13th.-I have had more opportunity of examining
the ruins of this city than on my former visit, when from
inscriptions I discovered it to be the ancient Tlos. My
general impressions remain the same, and further research
has only confirmed my opinion as to the taste and luxurious
ornament of the ancient city. I have copied many more in-
scriptions, principally from the tombs, which have been most
costly and curious constructions. The greater number not
only have their fronts architecturally ornamented, but, on
entering, we found them to have a kind of lobby, the panelled
framework being repeated within, and often ornamented in
a richer style; some of these are still beautiful, but what
must they have been when first executed, perhaps twenty-
TLOS.
317
five centuries ago! Many of the letters of the inscriptions
retain their varied colouring, and over the doors remnants
of painted flowers and wreaths, red, green, and white, are
still to be traced; but the most perfect historical informa-
tion which is preserved to us respecting the ornaments of
these tombs, is derived from the sculpture, which shows all
the beauty of simple line and exquisite proportion of figure,
and is sufficiently legible to be of the highest interest to the
antiquarian and student of ancient mythology and history.
I hope the sketches I have made may throw some light upon
the subject.
The figures sculptured on the rock are, I have no doubt,
of the same age as those accompanied by the Lycian charac-
ters, but I have again sought in vain for a single letter of
that language in this city. I obtained three or four coins
from the children, who gladly exchanged them for half a
piastre each; but the absence of travellers makes them care-
less of looking for them, and many hidden treasures may
still remain amidst the ruins which form hills of broken
fragments of stone, and pieces of pottery and glass. Among
the coins I find several silver and copper ones of the ancient
city.
On the side of one of the tombs cut in the rock I observed
a bas-relief representing combatants engaged, apparently
without swords, and pulling at each other's shields. This.
which I have observed in other places, may probably repre-
sent some of the popular games.
A tomb, sculptured high up in the rock, in the form of an
Ionic temple, we found to be of great interest, and I doubt
not it will be appreciated by the antiquarian and lover of
ancient history and poetry: in the pediment were sculptured
animals resembling panthers, but too much mutilated to be
copied. On the left side, on entering the portico, was a
spirited bas-relief of Bellerophon, and beneath his horse.
Pegasus the vanquished Chimæra. To find this in a city in
318
LYCIA.
war.
the valley of the Xanthus, cut in the rock, at once gives
reality and place to the poetic description of the services of
this classic hero. It will be remembered that Bellerophon
is represented as a royal exile, sent to Jobates king of Lycia,
and favoured by Neptune and Minerva; from them he re-
ceived the horse Pegasus, and with it conquered both man
and beast in various combats in Lycia, over which country
he afterwards became king, before the time of the Trojan
Among his other conquests, in this very valley, he
slew a wild boar which had destroyed the fruits and cattle of
the Xanthians, but for his services he received no reward.
He therefore prayed to Neptune that the fields of the Xan-
thians should exhale a salt dew, and be universally corrupted.
This continued until Bellerophon, at the intercession of the
women, again prayed to Neptune to remove the effect of his
indignation. It was on this account that the women of the
Xanthians were held in such high esteem, that their children
ever after were named from their mothers rather than their
fathers a custom which afterwards prevailed generally over
the whole of Lycia.
April 14th.—We yesterday left Dooveer, and, returning
across the valley for about four miles, we came to the river,
which was here fordable, owing to its stream being divided
by a small island. The water was four or five feet deep.
After having crossed, we turned to the southward, and gra-
dually bore into the range of the Cragus mountains, in a
south-westerly direction, for about nine miles, when we ar-
rived at the little village called Minara. Near this place we
had heard of the existence of ruins, and the similarity of
name to the ancient Pinara, a large city of Lycia, made us
seek here its site; knowing also that in many instances in
Greece the II has been changed into an M in after times.
The ride had been beautiful, amidst well-grown fir-trees,
and enriched with underwood now in bloom; the white and
the lilac cistus eclipse many of the more beautiful flowers
PINARA.
319
of the vetch tribe, which are blossoming beneath their
bushes.
The village of Minara is very small, but beautifully situ-
ated on the declivity of a hill of almost bare rock; little
shelves or terraces of ground are therefore of value, and are
generally covered with trees. On one of these terraces my
tent is pitched; the view before it extends over bushes of
pomegranate, and the middle distance of wooded hills adds
richness and beauty to the more distant view of the valley
of the Xanthus, with its lofty barrier of mountains rising to
the height of the ancient Massicytus, which is perpetually
capped with snow. A fine olive-tree overhangs one side of
our tent, and a lemon-tree shades the door; beyond are
several orange-trees, and on the terrace above, at the back,
are fig-trees and some magnificent quinces, now in full bloom,
-I had almost said in blossom like roses, but amidst them
is a large tree of the cabbage-rose, twelve or fourteen feet
high, whose sweet flowers have a prior claim to beauty. A
rose has just been presented to me by a young Turk boy,
which scents the tent delightfully. Our stores of lemons
and figs have here been replenished, and we now find a
plentiful supply of corn for the horses, with butter, kymac,
youghoort, eggs and fowls for ourselves, none of which
could we obtain at any price on the other side of the valley.
April 15th.-My search for the ancient Pinara has not
been in vain, and I am amply repaid by the discovery of its
most interesting ruins about a mile further up the mountain.
From amidst the ancient city rises a singular round rocky
cliff*, literally speckled all over with tombs. There must
be some thousands, and most of them are merely oblong
holes cut in the perpendicular front of the rock, which is
apparently inaccessible. Beneath this cliff lay the principal
part of the extensive and splendid city of Pinara. Two
* The Lycian word Pinara is said by Stephanus Byzantinus to mean
something round; this is here singularly illustrated.
320
LYCIA.
other places, at different elevations, were also covered with
massive buildings, and on either side of these were tombs
scattered for a considerable distance, many of them of the
gothic-form sarcophagus, and some surrounded by columns;
but the most perfect and the most highly interesting were
those below the city cut in the rocks. The theatre is in a very
perfect state; all the seats are remaining, with the slanting
sides towards the proscenium, as well as several of its door-
ways. The ingenious mode of the tying form of these stones
is coeval with the walls of Cyclopean construction.
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The walls, and several buildings of the city, were of the
Cyclopean style, with massive gateways formed of three im-
mense stones, as shown in the sketch given in the next page.
I measured one over the portal, which was fourteen feet in
length: the buttresses of the same walls were of regularly
squared stones.
These modes of building were both used in the same
works, and certainly at the same time; the Cyclopean, which
is generally supposed to be the older mode, I have often
seen surmounting the regular Greek squared stone walls.
The whole city appears to be of one date and people, and,
from its innumerable tombs, must have existed for a long
series of generations and from a very early period. The
inscriptions are generally in the Lycian character, but the
PINARA.
321
Greek occurs on the same tombs with the Lycian, which
will probably add to our knowledge of the latter; and these
again may be explained by bas-reliefs, which are here of ex-
citing interest.

:
I have endeavoured to explain, that in some of the tombs
at Tlos occurs a portico, within which are preserved highly
interesting historical bas-reliefs. One fine tomb before me, of
similar construction, is a finished specimen of the Elizabethan
order, with a pediment ornamented with groups of figures, one
representing the instruction of a child; on the frieze, which is
under dentils, each finished with a sculptured head, is another
spirited group, apparently rejoicing; but within the portico,
on either side, are views of the ancient city cut in relief on
P 3
322
LYCIA.
four different panels*. I know of no instance of a similar
insight into the appearance of the ancient cities. These
views exhibit the forms of the tops of the walls, which are
embattled, the gateways, and even the sentinels before them.
The upper portions of the walls are rarely found remaining
at the present day, and I have too often perhaps attributed
those I have seen to the Venetian age. The form of the
battlements is very singular; none now are left upon the
ruined walls of this city, but the tombs and towers might
be still selected, probably from the same point of view as
represented in these bas-reliefs.
On my
Another tomb cut in the rock also interested me.
former visit, from seeing the numerous sarcophagi with the
gothic-formed roofs, and the hog's-mane along their top, I
suggested that they had each had a crest or ornament at
either end, which, being exposed and prominent parts, had

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* Casts of the whole of these are in the Lycian Collection in the British
Museum.
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John Murray, London, 1841.
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THE PORTICO or TOMB
PINARA.
323
1
been broken off. I here find cut in the rock an imitation of
this form of sarcophagus, and its end surmounted by a crest.
This, being cut in relief, has remained unbroken. The crest
itself is also of historical interest. Herodotus, in descri-
bing the different nations joining the army of Xerxes, re-
lates that the people of Bithynia carried two Lycian spears,
and had helmets of brass, on the summits of which were the
ઃઃ ears and horns of an ox."
The expense of constructing the innumerable tombs has
hitherto been to me perfectly unaccountable. I have just
measured one; the form is of the most frequent style, and
has its inner front; but the whole appeared so much in
relief from the rock, that I climbed up, and found that I
could walk by the side, which was ornamented and as highly
finished as the front; this passage continued again along
the back, making a perfectly independent building or sculp-
tured mausoleum, eighteen feet six inches deep; the cutting
from the face of the rock was twenty-six feet deep, directly
into its hard mass. I have in one instance found an in-
teresting insight into the probably usual mode of con-
structing these tombs. Seeing the face of the rock, as it
were, only designed for a tomb-the columns being merely
square props, with lumps at their tops and thick at the
bottom, and with the pediment only a protruding mass-I
entered, and found the portico formed square, but not smooth-
ened or shaped for ornament; but the door of the tomb,
which was small, was highly finished, representing frame and
nails, and on the panels handsome ring-knockers, all cut in
the marble rock. For the purpose of pillaging the tomb,
this door had not been moved side-ways in its groove (the
usual manner of opening them), but a small hole had been
broken in the rock at the side. Putting my head into this, I
found the tomb had been finished within, and that the bones
of at least two ancient Greeks lay scattered on the floor.
This specimen shows that some of the tombs were formed
324
LYCIA.
for the reception of the dead, and afterwards finished, pro-
bably at a later period.
The letters of the Lycian inscriptions in this city, cut
into the rock, I find have generally been coloured—red,
yellow, green, or light blue; the letters varying alternately
with two colours.
How little is known even of the names of the ancient
Greek buildings! I find the usual vocabulary sadly defi-
cient in supplying appellations for many edifices crowded to-
gether in this very ancient city; several have long parallel
walls, built of massive and good masonry, with numerous
doorways, and simple but bold cornices. Others are more
square in form, with a fine sweeping circular recess at one
end; they have often four doorways, and columns lying about
within the buildings. Near and within one of the entrances
to the upper part of the city, are the remains of a very small
theatre, or probably an Odeum; I have not before seen one
so small; it would serve as a lecture-room of the present
day, where all the powers of the orator might have full effect.
Beneath the surface of the highest part of the city are large
square chambers, cut in the rock and arched over with
masonry; the whole of the inside is beautifully plastered
with a white stucco, having a polished surface like marble.
These have no doubt been stores for corn and other pro-
visions for the city.
While rambling among the ruins a peasant brought me
ten copper coins, all extremely small, but all Greek, found
by himself in a few yards of soil which he had cultivated
around his hut. I gave him five piastres, and was soon the
possessor of above fifty on the same terms: many of them
are probably valueless, but their being all from this place
gives to them an interest; for this city is yet unknown to
Europeans, and no coins are possessed by any of the mu-
seums. Among the coins I notice many with the head of a
ram, and inscribed with the name of the city; some also of
PINARA.
325
Tlos, and one or two of Eastern nations of the age of An-
tiochus, about three centuries before Christ, but none of a
later date.
The people had never before seen a Frank; an old man
told me that none had ever been up to his village: their
manners were naturally the more simple, and of this I must
give an instance. Three or four men, one of them very old,
were the most attentive and curious in watching and assist-
ing us to move stones, and leading the way through bushes;
of course we returned this civility by signs of obligation.
We soon became more intimate, and they ventured to make
remarks, noticing the spectacles worn by one of my com-
panions, and placing them before their own eyes; these
and a magnifying-glass astonished them exceedingly. Our
pencils and books were equally novel to them. Soon after-
wards a pretty little girl joined our group, with a red skull-
cap much faded by the sun, and from which were suspended
chains of glittering coins, confining her hair, that hung in
many long plaits down her back, in the manner of the
ancient Egyptians: rows of coloured beads hung round her
brown open breast. This child was pushed forward to
present to me an egg, which I exchanged for half a piastre,
and all fear of the Frank at once ceased. Other eggs were
brought, my plant-box and hands were soon filled, and I
was reminded of my former servant's instruction, that pre-
sents are very dear things in this country-the price of eggs
being twenty or thirty for a piastre.
We made signs to our officious cicerones that we wished
to climb to the upper part of the city, but they opposed
this, and we were compelled to understand that we must
follow them to their huts close by. We did so, and were
received by three women, the wives of our guides, at the
doors of their huts, and a carpet was soon spread on the
ground in front, on which we reclined, while each woman
brought out her present; one, a large bowl of kymac, an-
326
LYCIA.
other, one of youghoort, and the third a supply of fresh-
baked bread of the country; two wooden spoons were placed
for our use, and the eyes of a dozen peasants assembled
around were riveted upon us. The dogs, which always assail
the stranger most fiercely with their barking,lay asleep by our
side, acknowledging us as the guests of their kind masters.
The cow, which is here but little larger than the dogs, was
being milked; and on the broken columns and stones piled
around sat our hostesses, while their husbands were on the
ground still nearer. Among them were five or six children,
each most picturesquely and classically dressed. I cannot
help again noticing the close resemblance of the costume of
the women to the ancient statues: the hair is worn long
and braided round the head; one old woman of the party
had it tied in a knot to the top of the forehead, exactly as I
易​租
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PINARA.
327
}
have seen represented in the antique. Their arms had each
the simple armlet or bracelet of gold; sometimes two or three
on one wrist, and always a fibula of silver or gold to hold
together the loose tunic or shirt; the upper jacket is em-
broidered most richly; the trowsers, extremely loose, and
confined at the ankle, are generally red, blue, or white, and
often ornamented with silver embroidery or spangles; those
before us were only worked with coloured silks.
The people here are Chinganees, or gipsies, as I noticed
when in this district before; they therefore show their faces,
and are not so secluded as the Turkish women generally.
A child presenting me with a flower, gave me an opportu-
nity of substantially acknowledging my obligation for this.
true hospitality: the whole scene to me was most pleasing.
It is delightful to meet with so simple and naturally kind
a people, apparently devoid of any prejudice against those
thought to be so opposed to themselves in every opinion.
328
CHAPTER XIX.
DISCOVERY OF SIDYMA.-ITS TOMBS.-TEMPLES.-NATURAL HISTORY.-
LIONS. ANCIENT FORT.-XANTHUS.-SARCOPHAGUS-TOMB.-LYCIAN
INSCRIPTION UPON OBELISK.-
PEASANTS.
OBELISK.ANCIENT
SCULPTURES.-HARPIES.-
CHARIOTS.-ANIMALS.-PROCESSIONS. TOMB. — CUSTOMS
– CUSTOMS OF THE
M
-
April 15th.-Leaving Minara, we travelled towards the
south-west, over a range of wooded hills separating our little
valley from another as beautiful. These recesses or bays from
the valley of the Xanthus are particularly rich, and might
be productive; they are in a better state of cultivation than
most parts of this country. The lands have a gradual incli-
nation down to the valley, and are screened on either side
by the wooded hills protruding from the range of the Cra-
gus. As a type of the general character of the vegetation
we passed, I will describe the first of these bays after our
leaving Minara. The whole valley has probably been, like
the hills above, covered with underwood, and a track through
them has been the road we have followed. In order to culti-
vate the land, the underwood has all been burnt or grubbed
up, leaving on either side of the way a belt of vegetation,
to form fences to the fields. These hedges are therefore not
of one description, but vary at every bush, and mingle wildly
together, producing at this season a beauty and luxuriance
which regales all the senses. The predominant shrub is
the myrtle, and the next the small prickly oak; with these
1
MINARA.
329
are mingled the pomegranate, the orange, wild olive, ole-
ander, and the elegant gum-storax; these are matted to-
gether by the vine, clematis, asparagus: in the fields are left
standing, for their shade as well as their fruit, the carob,
the fig, and the oak. Barley is the principal produce of
the fields at this season, but the old stems of the maize
show the second crop of the last year. A few huts in the
centre of this valley give the name of Yakabalyer to the
plain also.
Another valley further on our way, in which stands Kestép,
is more wooded, appearing, as we ascended through a forest
of fir-trees on the hill of separation, one wood of splendidly
grown oaks; they are the Quercus Egilops, which is here a
considerable source of wealth from its acorns, called by the
Smyrna merchants Velanéa; the timber would, if wanted for
the market, be of high value.
On entering a third of these valleys, called, from its village,
Guilemet, we turned up a ravine to the west, leading di-
rectly into the midst of the Cragus range; this was about
ten miles from Minara. Gradually ascending for nearly
two hours, we arrived at the village of Tortoorcar, where we
sought the remains of an ancient city, but were told that
high in the mountains above us were the ruins, and within
them was the village of Tortoorcar Hissá. We climbed for
more than an hour up a steep, quite unfit for horses, when
we found ourselves amidst the splendidly-built tombs of an
unknown city of the ancient Greeks.
The inscriptions soon told the name of this city to have
been Sidyma, and the style of its architecture led me to assign
to it a date purely Greek, but by no means so early as that
of Pinara or any of the cities more marked by the Lycian
peculiarities. In this city we saw no Cyclopean walls, and
none of that other extreme of art, differing in all points but
its simplicity, the sculpture accompanying the Lycian in-
scriptions. I saw only one ornamented tomb in the rocks,
330
LYCIA.
and but two or three of the gothic-formed sarcophagi: one
of these was inscribed with Greek characters.
I obtained but few inscriptions out of the very many on
the tombs, on account of the perished state of the surface
of the marble in this elevated situation. The extreme cost
of ornament, and the great size of the tombs standing on
stoas fitted for temples, surprised me much; they were like
the tombs of a large city which had disappeared; but the city
remained to show its original extent, which was very small;
its agora, theatre, and other buildings were indeed almost too
small to be recognized as suitable to the purposes of the
public meetings of the people of a city.
Several square buildings, not larger than many of the
tombs, have evidently been temples; the scale and beauty

އގ
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SIDYMA.
331
of their doorways cannot have suited any other edifice: I
sought in vain for inscriptions near them.
We here saw a building rather apart from the town,
similar to others which I have noticed elsewhere, having a
square room, with a circular end, and side buildings forming
little covered saloons with many doors: these ruins retain
much of their stucco, which has been painted with borders
and wreaths of flowers, and part of a female figure, in red,
blue, green, yellow, and white colours.
The present state of this district is extremely wild; only
three or four huts are amidst these ruins on the mountain,
and their occupants have always their gun slung over their
shoulder, even within the limits of their own cultivated
fields. On inquiry as to why this custom prevailed, we
were told that the country was full of wild animals, and of
the fiercest kind. I was extremely cautious and particular
in my inquiries as to their nature, and have no doubt of
the truth of the account which I heard from many of the
people of the surrounding district, and each unknown to the
other. In this village alone, four or five lions, called Aslan
by the Turks, and other animals called Caplan (the leopard),
are killed every year. The man who first told me had him-
self taken the skins to the Aga, to present to the different
Pashas, and these presentations had been rewarded by sums
of one to two hundred piastres, which he had himself re-
ceived. The lions, he said, are timid unless surprised or
attacked, and I could not hear that they did much injury
to the flocks. Wolves-and, if I understand rightly, the
hyæna also—are found here; and the latter are described
as gnashing their teeth together; my Greek servant adds,
that such animals strike fire from their mouths, but this
occurs in his travels in Persia. I have heard the same from
showmen at our country fairs, among other exaggerated
wonders. Bears are certainly found here in great num-
bers. I observe the most costly buildings in this district
332
LYCIA.
are the apiaries, which are formed of a square of high walls,
open at the top only; within this the hives are placed, and
a ladder is used if entry is required-a precaution which
is essential to keep away the bears from the honey. This,
which reminded me of the illustrations of Æsop's fables,
was the more interesting from its being his native country.
The moral of the fable is preserved; but the hives that I
have seen pictured would not be known by the bees of this
country, as their house is here more simple, being univer-
sally the hollowed section of a fir-tree. Snakes are also
abundant in this district, but they are most numerous in
the lower valleys. An island opposite to Macry, at the foot
of the Cragus range, is wholly given up to them; and the
ruins of an earlier village, called Macry-vecchia, probably of
a late Roman age, are shown as the remains of a town de-
serted on account of the number of snakes. The people
object even to approach the island, and I doubt not that
their fears greatly exaggerate the number and size of these
animals. My servant saw one, which he considered small,
among the ruins of Cadyanda; it measured six feet, and was
as thick as his arm.
Uslann, April 16th.—I have seldom passed a more rugged,
and never a worse road with baggage-horses, than today;
the distance on the map is not great, but we have been five
hours on the way. For the first hour, after leaving Tor-
toorcar Hissá, we ascended a craggy mountain covered
with fir-trees, and then arrived at a little cultivated plain.
Around this were barren crags, scarcely affording pasture to
the flocks of large black goats on their rocky sides: the
height to which they had climbed made me giddy as I looked
up to seek whence came their bleating.
From this elevated mountain pass we obtained occasion-
ally splendid views of the sea, whose immense expanse was
unbroken by a vessel of any kind. Turning down a steep
ravine towards the south-east we came to a few huts, and
DELTA OF THE XANTHUS.
333
continuing our course at last saw before us the Delta of the
Xanthus; Patara being at one angle, and this place occupy-
ing the other toward the sea. Uslann has but three sheds,
and serves as the port, or scala, for shipping fire-wood and
salt-fish to Rhodes. Two Greeks carry on this trade, and
are the whole population. A village, consisting of a few
huts, lies about a mile inland from this place, which is pro-
bably another mile from the sea-coast. We were supplied
here with eight fowls for fifteen piastres, scarcely five-pence
each: but this is not so cheap in proportion as the produce
of the interior towards the south. The prices of our pro-
visions I find are higher than they were two years ago.
We were attracted hither by the report of the existence
of ruins in this quarter, and also by the admirable chart of
Captain Beaufort, who lays them down as ruins not yet.
visited. Colonel Leake had also directed me hither as the
probable site of the ancient Cydna, or Pydna, but of this
discovery I am not satisfied.
About a mile distant, near to the sea, we found a rocky hill,
fortified with a beautifully built Cyclopean wall, with towers
and loop-holes, and showing a fine specimen of an ancient

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Greek fortification: the walls had a terrace for the passage
of a guard within the battlements, and this course passed by
334
LYCIA.
doors through the towers; and as the wall rose up the steep
side of the hill, the terrace was formed of a flight of steps;
several of the towers had only been breastwork, having but
three walls, the inner side being left open.
This place does not appear to me ever to have been a city,
for the walls contain but one building, and this at the lower
corner. No loose stones, or cuttings of the bare rocky
ground for foundations, show that any other buildings ever
existed. What this one structure has been, must remain a
mystery; its form, painted walls, and arched domes, are pre-
cisely the same as those of the ruin I have described at
Sidyma. Within this building lay a broken pedestal, with
an inscription. In turning over the stone we killed a scor-
pion, which lay concealed beneath it. On the outside of the
wall were the remains of a small ruined building, again of
the same construction, but still less perfect; it had its three
chambers, with dome tops and painted walls. Only two
tombs were to be found in the neighbourhood, and they were
near the outside of the south gate. An inscription upon
a stone which had been over the doorway of one of them,
I think may assist to strengthen my opinion that this place.
was a stronghold or fort of the Xanthians, and that the
soldiers of the fort may have lived in tents or buildings of
perishable materials, no traces of which are left within the
walls. Three lines of this inscription are cut upon the orna-
mental moulding, and have apparently been added at a sub-
sequent period*. There are no signs of other tombs, and
no theatre or public buildings.
Close to the scala, and near to our tent, is an isolated rock,
the whole of which is crowned with a well-built Greek wall,
which appears to have been the basement of a temple or
some single building; its situation, rising out of the plain,
is imposing.
* The inscription orders that the penalty for disturbing the tomb
should be paid to the City of Xanthus.
DELTA OF THE XANTHUS.
335
April 17th, Xanthus.—I am once more at my favourite
city—the first in which I became acquainted with the re-
mains of art of the ancient Lycians, and in which I hope to
find still more, embodying their language, history, and poetic
sculpture. How might the classic enthusiast revel in the
charms of this city and its neighbourhood! With Mount
Cragus before him, he might conjure up all the chimæras of
its fabulous history.
This morning, on leaving Uslann, which is very nearly the
Turkish name for the Lion, we crossed the little river which
rises suddenly from the rocks within two miles of the sea,
but meanders in a brilliantly clear stream for at least three
miles before it reaches the beach; it is navigable for small
boats to the scala. Continuing across the plain for four
miles, with drifted sand-banks on our right, we came near to
what is not improperly called the Island, being a rocky hill
rising amidst the perfectly level plain. On the larger por-
tion of this hill there are no ruins of ancient buildings to be
found, but some are visible on the summit of the smaller.
We were unable to cross the swamp by which it is sur-
rounded at this season, in order to examine them; but an
intelligent old Greek, who was our guide, said that the stones
were only the lower part of a building, which was round, but
not a theatre, for it had no seats. No columns were to be
seen there, nor any other remains of a city: neither tombs
nor walls were upon the hill. Possibly this may have been
the Letoum and temple of Apollo, which Colonel Leake ex-
pected would there be found; the easy transport of columns
by sea would fully account for their absence. In half an
hour more we crossed the livid waters of the Xanthus, which
there divided into two streams, but both were too deep for
us to pass with comfort. The horses were several inches
above their girths in the water, and the baggage was partly
bathed. Three men stripped, and guided us across the rapid
streams. Another hour brought us here, where we intend
336
LYCIA.
to halt for several days, to examine further into the remains
of this chief of the Lycian cities, and to make accurate draw-
ings of its interesting sculpture.
April 21st.—This is my fourth day among the ruins of
Xanthus, and how little do I know of this ancient city! its
date still puzzles me. It certainly possesses some of the
earliest Archaic sculpture in Asia Minor, and this connected
with the most beautiful of its monuments, and illustrated by
the language of Lycia. These sculptures to which I refer
must be the work of the sixth or seventh centuries before
the Christian æra, but I have not seen an instance of these
remains having been despoiled for the rebuilding of walls;
and yet the decidedly more modern works of a later people
are used as materials in repairing the walls around the back
of the city and upon the Acropolis; many of these have
Greek inscriptions, with names common among the Romans.
The whole of the sculpture is Greek, fine, bold, and simple,
bespeaking an early age of that people. No sign whatever
is seen of the works of the Byzantines or Christians.
To lay down a plan of the town is impossible, the whole
being concealed by trees; but walls of the finest kind, Cyclo-
pean blended with the Greek, as well as the beautifully
squared stones of a lighter kind, are seen in every direction;
several gateways also, with their paved roads, still exist.
observed on my first visit that the temples have been very
numerous, and, from their position along the brow of the
cliff, must have combined with nature to form one of the
most beautiful of cities. The extent I now find is much
greater than I had imagined, and its tombs extend over miles
of country I had not before seen.
The beautiful gothic-formed sarcophagus-tomb, with cha-
riots and horses upon its roof, of which I have before spoken
and have given a sketch of a battle-scene upon the side, accom-
panied with a Lycian inscription*, is again a chief object of
* See page 171.
XANTHUS.
337
my admiration amidst the ruins of this city. Of the ends of
this monument I did not before show drawings, but gave a
full description.
Beneath the rocks, at the back of the city, is a sarco-
phagus of the same kind, and almost as beautifully sculp-
tured; but this has been thrown down, and the lid now lies
half-buried in the earth. Its hog's-mane is sculptured with
a spirited battle-scene.

Many Greek inscriptions upon pedestals are built into the
walls, which may throw some light upon the history of the
city; they are mostly funereal, and belong to an age and
people quite distinct from those of the many fine Lycian
remains.
Two of my days have been spent in the tedious, but, I
trust, useful occupation, of copying the Lycian inscription
from the obelisk I mentioned in my former volume that I
had seen this will be of service to the philologist. Having,
with the assistance of a ladder, ascended to a level with the
top of the monument, I discovered a curious fact: the cha-
racters cut upon the upper portion are larger and wider
apart than those on the lower, thus counteracting the effect
of diminution by distance, as seen from the ground. As the
letters are beautifully cut, I have taken several impressions
from them, to obtain fac-similes. By this inscription I hope
to fix the type of an alphabet, which will be much simplified,
as I find upon the various tombs about the town great varie-
ties, though of a trifling nature, in the forms of each letter;
these varieties have hitherto been considered as different
characters. This long public inscription will establish the
form of all the letters of an alphabet, one form only being
used throughout for each letter: if this should be deciphered,
1
338
LYCIA.
X
it may be the means of adding information to history. The
inscription exceeds 250 lines*..
It is to be regretted that the obelisk is not perfect; time.
or an earthquake has split off the upper part, which lies at
its foot. Two sides of this portion only remain, with in-
scriptions which I could copy; the upper surface being with-
out any, and the lower facing the ground: its weight of many
tons rendered it immoveable. I had the earth excavated
from the obelisk itself, and came to the base, or probably
the upper part of a flight of steps, as in the other obelisk-
monuments of a similar construction. The characters upon
the north-west side are cut in a finer and bolder style than
on the others, and appear to be the most ancient. Should
any difference of date occur on this monument, I should
decide that this is the commencement or original inscription
upon it.
This, which I must consider as a very important monu-
ment, appears to have on the north-east side a portion of its
inscription in the early Greek language; the letters are
comparatively ill cut, and extremely difficult at such an ele-
vation to decipher; seizing favourable opportunities for the
light, I have done my best to copy it faithfully, and glean
from it that the subject is funereal, and that it relates to
a king of Lycia; the mode of inscription makes the monu-
ment itself speak, being written in the first person†. Very
near to this stands the monument, similar in form, which I
described in my last Journal as being near the theatre, and
upon which remained the singular bas-reliefs of which I gave
sketches. On closer examination I find these to be far more
interesting and ancient than I had before deemed them.
* The plates of this inscription are too large for this volume. A more
perfect copy was made, and published in the Transactions of the Royal
Society of Literature, vol. i. Casts of this monument were afterwards
taken, which are now deposited in the British Museum.
This was suggested to me by the learned Professor Müller.
XANTHUS.
339
They are in very low relief, resembling in that respect the
Persepolitan or Egyptian bas-reliefs. I have now had de-
tailed drawings made*, which will better explain their age and
meaning. This monument, I trust, may ere long be depo-
sited in our national Museumt.
* This Monument, called the Harpy Tomb, is now in the Lycian
Room of the British Museum; the plates are therefore omitted here.
On my return to England, through Athens, I was much struck by
the great similarity in style, age, art and mode of arranging the hair, of the
fragment here shown, to the bas-reliefs on the obelisk-tomb at Xanthus.
This fragment is known, from the position in which it was found upon
the Acropolis, to have been of an earlier date than the Parthenon of
Pericles, and is attributed to the seventh century before the Christian
era. It is called "Venus stepping into her car," and is amongst the recent
Athenian discoveries. A cast of this is now in the British Museum.

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340
LYCIA.
I have received from Mr. Benjamin Gibson of Rome a
letter in reference to these bas-reliefs: his interpretation of
this mysterious subject appears far the best that I have yet
heard; and from finding the district to have been in all
probability the burial-place of the kings, it becomes the more
interesting. Mr. Gibson writes-"The winged figures on
the corners of the tomb you have discovered in Lycia, repre-
sented flying away with children, may with every probability
be well supposed to have a reference to the story of the
Harpies flying away with the daughters of king Pandarus.
This fable we find related by Homer in the Odyssey, lib. xx.,
where they are stated to be left orphans, and the gods as
endowing them with various gifts. Juno gives them pru-
dence, Minerva instructs them in the art of the loom, Diana
confers on them tallness of person, and lastly Venus flies up
to Jupiter to provide becoming husbands for them; in the
mean time, the orphans thus being left unprotected, the
Harpies come and snatch the unguarded charge away.'
Strabo tells us that Pandarus was king of Lycia, and was
worshiped particularly at Pinara. This tomb becomes thus
very interesting; which, if it be not the tomb of Pandarus,
shows that the story was prevalent in Lycia, and that the
great author of the Iliad derived it from that source.
With this clue, we have no difficulty in recognizing Juno
on the peculiar chair assigned to that goddess, and on the
same side is Venus and her attendants; upon another is
probably represented Diana, recognized by the hound. The
seated gods are less easily distinguished. In the Harpies, at
the four corners of the tomb, we have the illustration of those
beings as described by the classic writers.
Every excursion we have made has added tales of fresh
discoveries of pieces of sculpture, many of which I have
had sketched. They are of a pure Greek date, and the sub-
jects may be of interest to the mythologist and student of
the Greek games; were it possible to remove the trees and
XANTHUS.
341
bushes, the examination of the piles of ruins would afford
occupation for many weeks. In my previous Journal I men-
tioned that various pieces of sculpture of early date are built
into the walls of the Acropolis: of these I have given draw-
ings in my larger work, which may assist, from the subject
and style of art, to afford information about this interesting
place. The construction of the chariots and the costume
of the figures are of an early age: I also observe a marked
peculiarity in the arrangement of the forelocks of the horses*.
The animals have also their interest; some strongly resemble
the subjects often seen upon antique gems. The lion and
the bull are always prominent objects in Lycian sculpture.
I have been surprised at not obtaining any coins from the
peasants, for they cultivate every bare spot amidst the ruins,
and the whole surrounding district is under the plough; but
the few people we have seen say they very rarely find any.
The peasantry here are far more industrious than in most
districts I have visited; at this season every field has its
* On examining the various works of the ancient Greeks in the British
Museum, I find no instance, either in the horses of the Greek marbles or
on the numerous Etruscan vases, of the forelock being tied in this pecu-
liar form; but in the bas-reliefs from Persepolis I find each horse has

its hair exactly so arranged, as will be seen in this sketch from one of
them. The whip of the driver of the chariot, as well as his costume, is
also the same as in the Xanthian specimen.
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342
LYCIA.
yoke of oxen at work, tilling the ground in the same manner
as in the time of the early inhabitants, and the tents of the

LLA
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husbandmen are being pitched where the swamps have suffi-
ciently dried; this tillage is for the later crops of maize, the
barley being now in ear, and the wheat nearly full-grown.
The beans and vetches are in bloom.
The industry and independence of the peasantry here has
caused us much trouble to obtain our requisite supplies.

XANTHUS.
343
ا کیا ان کے
We have had to send several miles before we could persuade
the shepherds at this season to part with their sheep. At
last a lad has brought us one, for which we have to make him
a present, in addition to the price of the sheep.
The water for our use is also brought from the river, which is
half a mile from our tent, and is of a colour that would forbid
its being used for drinking, were it possible to obtain better.

In the theatre, which I mentioned in my former Journal,
I have sketched a marble chair, probably a place of honour
for some distinguished patron of the games of the ancients.

The seats of the people in most of the Greek theatres were
so formed as to throw off the rain-water, and at the same
344
LYCIA.
time in some degree to prevent the inconvenience from the
feet of the spectators seated above.
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己
​We cannot have every enjoyment at the same time: to
enjoy light we must have shadow. When travelling before
in this country I was amused and instructed by the curiosity
and proffered hospitality of the people; but they intruded
far too much upon my privacy, and I often wished them
away, that I might be alone. In travelling with a Cavass
or Tartar the case is altered. I cannot say upon the whole
that I prefer it, always enjoying the attention and kindness
natural to humanity, rather than the respect commanded by
authority, and I fear I am represented as a very different
character with regard to my feelings towards the people, to
what I really am. They wish to offer flowers and presents
of all kinds, but the Cavass perhaps properly keeps them
aloof, and when anything is purchased by me they name no
price, but expect a present: this the Cavass discountenances,
and fixes a price upon everything, probably lower than I
should be induced to give. He demands hospitality where
I before received it voluntarily, and our room is always kept
free from the people.
I fancy that the peasants here keep more aloof than usual,
from a display of authority on our arrival, which I much dis-
approved, but it is, I fear, too common with travellers. The
first Zoorigee told some men to move from the path on which
they were lying, to let our cavalcade pass, instead of our
The men said there was
turning a few steps out of the way.
plenty of room to pass, upon which the Cavass galloped up
to them, as if to trample them down with his horse, and
struck them repeatedly upon the head in the most savage
XANTHUS.
345
manner with his stick, and with these unresisted blows dis-
persed the party of peasants, who were basking a few hours
of their Sunday (Friday) in their own fields, over which pro-
bably we were unlawful trespassers. Our train followed, but
without the usual welcome to the stranger. The gay clothes,
arms, and the power enjoyed by these couriers bearing my
firman, is more feared than I like, for I know that all the
traveller can want is freely afforded by the people.
Q 3
346
CHAPTER XX.
PATARA.-COINS.-PASSAGE OF MOUNTAINS.-DISCOVERY OF THE AN-
CIENT PHELLUS.-ANTIPHELLUS.-ITS
TOMBS.—KASTELORIZO, THE
ANCIENT MEGISTE.
JEWELS AND COSTUME OF THE PEASANTRY.-
CASSABAR. ANCIENT TRABALA ?-SINGULAR GORGE IN THE MOUN-
TAINS.-MYRA. TOMBS.
April 21st. This morning we rode down the plain to Patara,
which place I have before visited. I again sought the points
of the greatest interest-its very perfect theatre, the arched
entrance to the city, and clusters of palm-trees; and, owing
to the drier state of the swamp, I was enabled to visit a
beautiful small temple about the centre of the ruined city:
its doorway, within a portico in antis, is in high preservation,
as well as its walls; the doorway is of beautiful Greek work-
manship, ornamented in the Corinthian style, and in fine
proportion and scale; the height is about twenty-four feet.
I have sought in vain among the numerous funeral inscrip-
tions for any trace of Lycian characters. I copied the in-
scription in the Greek language from the wall of the theatre,
which is cut in large well-formed letters, over the eastern
entrance of the proscenium.
In a wood to the east of the city is a solitary instance of
a Lycian architectural tomb cut in the rock in the Eliza-
bethan form; but upon the panel of the door are three ill-
cut figures, representing a man, his wife, and a child; they
PATARA.
347
are but a few inches high, and have under them a Greek
inscription.
The number of coins and common gems of rude cutting
that are found here is quite unaccountable. I obtained
above thirty coins from a man who said he often brought
home a hundred in a day when he was ploughing, and that,
if I liked, he would go and find some. One of our men
picked up two in crossing a field as he drove in the horses;
they appear to be of all dates, but I hope some may be
curious, having the Lycian characters upon them. I am de-
lighted to recognize again in one the figure of Bellerophon,
similar to the bas-relief in the tomb at Tlos: this is highly
interesting, as being found in the valley of the Xanthus.
The copper coins of early date found in Lycia are generally
extremely small; the Roman and Byzantine are much larger,
and consequently more easily seen in the fields. I have
obtained several very curious coins, found in the valley of
the Xanthus, all having a singular device, a triquetra inter-
mixed with the Lycian characters; on the reverse is gene-
rally a lion, in various attitudes: the finest silver ones have
the skin of a lion's head only. These coins, although not
obtained from Xanthus itself, I am inclined to believe were
of that chief city, or perhaps of the country generally at a
very early period. I have the coins of most of the other
cities, bearing the name of Lycia and the emblems of Apollo,
the lyre, or bow and quiver, together with the initials of the
particular city to which they respectively belong; their re-
verse has a beautiful head of the god.
Before leaving the valley of the Xanthus, I must refer to
the remaining marked illustrations of its early legends. His-
tory tells us that this country was originally peopled from
Crete, by a colony which settled here under Sarpedon the
son of Europa. Lycus, being afterwards driven from Athens,
joined Sarpedon, and from him this portion of the country
was called Lycia. The customs of the mother-country are
348
LYCIA.
said to have been retained by the colonists. I find in the
coins of Crete alone a parallel in size and workmanship to
those of Lycia: on seeing coins from Candia, I at first sight
claimed them as Lycian. The bull's horns are found as the
crest of the ancient inhabitants, and the bull contending
with lions is the most common subject of the bas-reliefs.
May this not have reference to the family of Europa con-
tending with the wild animals of this country? The lion is
seen everywhere throughout the valley of the Xanthus;
every bas-relief, tomb, seat or coin, shows the figure or limbs
of this animal. Lions still live in its mountains, the goat is
found at the top, while the serpent infests the base of the
Cragus, illustrating the imaginary monster of its early fables*.
The name of Sarpedon is found upon the monuments, and
the conquests of Bellerophon remain stamped upon the
rocks and coins. Patara, whose name implies the seat of an
oracle, stands at the entrance of a valley: the inscriptions
and emblems here are all in honour of Apollo, and the
coins of the whole district show his ascendancy. I doubt
not that many other points of high interest would occur
to the classic scholar, but these must be observed by all
travellers.
April 22nd, Bazeeryiancooe. This bay was by the ancient
Greeks called Phonicus, probably from its palm-trees; by
the modern Greeks Kalamaki, which means
"reed bay;"
but from the precipitous and arid rocks, rising from a sea
far too deep even for anchorage, reeds never could have
grown here.
On the coast of Patara, which is round the
point to the westward, and is distinctly divided from this
* The vignette on the title-page is drawn from an ancient Greek terra-
cotta, representing a chimæra. This extremely interesting relic is the
property of Thomas Burgon, Esq., who has kindly allowed me to copy
it as an illustration.
"A lion she before in mane and throat,
Behind a dragon, in the midst a goat."-HESIOD.
PATARA.
349
bay by a bold promontory, both reeds and palm-trees are
found in abundance. Travelling for nearly four hours.
through Fornas, and leaving the Scala or little village of
Kalamaki below us in the bay, we kept our elevated route to
Bazeeryiancooe, or merchant's village, which is situated upon
a point of rock commanding a fine view, and is an excellent
site from which to make a map of this varied coast. The
small islands of Xenagoræ near the coast break the mono-
tony of a boundless expanse of sea. The huts are here all
built of stones, piled up and lined with mud. The situation
is so much exposed to the frequent eddies of wind from the
mountains, that it would render the common hut, character-
istic of the more sheltered country, unsafe.
April 24th.—From this village we continued our ascent
of the mountain for two hours through bold craggy ravines,
until we arrived at the village of Kedekleh, which would
have been a far better division of our journey than halting
so soon as Bazeeryiancooe. Continuing still occasional as-
cents, we traversed the picturesque heights of this mountain-
range, cultivated with small patches of corn, which, as well
as the whole vegetation, was fully a month later than in the
district we had left in the morning, and the country again
assumed the appearance almost of winter. Arriving at the
village of Saaret, where our horses required rest, we occupied
an hour or two in ascending the mountain which forms the
opposite or northern side of this narrow valley, appearing to
divide the country from east to west. Our inducement for
making this excursion was the number of tombs cut in its
rocks, and the Cyclopean walls blended with its craggy top.
We were not disappointed: a city has once stood upon its
summit, and walls, gateways, and tombs, all bespeak the work
of the early Greeks; this is borne out also by the form of
the letters in the numerous Greek inscriptions, too much
effaced by the exposed situation to be deciphered. I have
no doubt that this was the ancient Phellus. In four more
350
LYCIA.
:
hours we had passed the high and wild range of mountains
forming the southern coast at the back of the ancient Anti-
phellus on its summit we encountered a most violent hail-
storm, and I never experienced more bitter cold in the depth.
of winter: large hailstones covered the ground some inches
in depth. The awfully grand effect of these storms can
scarcely be imagined: the cracking thunder was echoed in-
stantly by the surrounding crags, and then rolled into distant
ranges with almost a continuous murmur; the lightning
played upon the clouds, which appeared to hover capriciously
over fated islands in the expanse of ocean before us, while
the sun shone brilliantly on others. The grandeur of such
storms is seldom witnessed in the calmer climates of the
continent of Europe.
April 25th.—I have been now two days at Antiphellus,
and have had more time to devote to the examination of its
remains than on my last rapid journey. The inscriptions
upon the tombs are so much corroded by time and sea air,
that many of them are illegible. One or two I admired for
their simplicity, and from others gathered the name of the
place. I find no bilingual inscriptions with the Lycian; all
are Greek that I have seen, excepting one upon the sarco-
phagus, which was so distinguished by its beauty of propor-
tion and form, as well as situation, that I sketched it on my
last journey. This stately monument has a long Lycian in-
scription; I was prevented copying the whole by the frac-
tures in many of the deeply-cut letters, but have selected
from it many perfect words, separated by the usual stops,
and these may assist in restoring the knowledge of the
language.
The sphinx represented throughout this country is the
eastern, and not that seen in the Egyptian sculptures. The
little theatre here is quite perfect, with the exception of its
proscenium, which has entirely disappeared: the seats are
preserved, and clear to the bottom. The absence of shrubs,
ANTIPHELLUS.
351
which usually obscure so much the interior of the theatres,
has tended much to the preservation of this.
Cohe dhe
Yesterday we went to the island of Kastelorizo, to lay in
stores and to refit ourselves with supplies; the distance may
be five or six miles from the shore. The town-for it really
deserves the name-consists probably of six or eight hun-
dred houses, all built upon one model, being formed like
cubes, with two or three open square windows in the front
of each, and a door at the back. These are built up the side
of a steep rock, and, viewed together, are more singular-
looking than picturesque. An old castle of the middle ages
crowns the rock, and gives a character to the city.

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TAT
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On landing in this island, the effect was that of visiting a
new country: hundreds of Greeks were crowding about the
little quay and coffee-houses; wine was being retailed from
the cask in the dirty narrow streets; scarcely a dog was to
be seen, and pigs supplied their place. We were told that
there were five Turks only in the town, the whole population
being Greek. A number of small vessels filled the harbour;
boats were building, houses rising rapidly, and the whole
population seemed active and enterprising: it is quite de-
lightful to see such an intelligent-looking assemblage of
352
LYCIA.
people, both male and female, in this busy scene; but a host
of pure and simple feelings pass from the mind, and are suc-
ceeded by caution and worldliness, which are seldom suffi-
cient to compete with the cunning of the Greek.
This is a metropolis of trade for the whole of the south-
western coast: all provisions, and even coins and treasures
of every kind discovered by the peasants, find a ready market-
here. I have obtained several coins, just brought from the
valley of the Xanthus, and also saw some singular gems, but
the devices were probably more illustrative of the whims of
their former owners than of history.
The island of Kastelorizo, which was the ancient Megiste,
is perfectly barren of natural supplies; even the water for
the use of the town is collected in large tanks, about a mile
up the mountain, whence it is carried by the women, who
are continually passing and repassing in most classic groups,
with pitchers slung over their shoulders. The jewellery of
these people is particularly interesting, being precisely the
same as that seen upon the statues of the ancients. I wished
much to purchase a bracelet or armlet, but could not obtain
any; they are handed down as heir-looms, and, should an
additional one be required, it is made expressly from these
models, but they are never kept for sale: by this mode the
pattern is perpetuated, and I feel certain that we here see
the models of the ornaments of the ancient Greeks: several
of these are often seen worn on the same arm, serving as the
quartering in an heraldic shield, to register the families cen-
tered in the living heiress. The jewels, or rather gold orna-
ments, are often thus accumulated to a great value; some
of the people we saw with their savings-bank, if I may use
the expression, around their necks, in twenty or forty piastre-
pieces of modern Turkish gold, some chains containing the
current value of above a hundred pounds. But the charac-
teristic ornament of the peasantry of this island is a row of
large fibulæ or brooches, of chased silver, three inches in dia-
ANTIPHELLUS.
353
meter, placed one below the other, from the throat to the
waist, which is very low; the rest of the dress is, as I have
before described, purely classic in all its forms.

Leaving the path which leads to the fountains, we ascended
the heights above the town, to seek the ruins of the city of
the early inhabitants of Megiste: some fine Cyclopean walls
scattered about the top point out the site, but no further
remains are to be traced.
A brisk gale carried us back in less than an hour to our
abode at Antiphellus, or, as the little Scala is now called
by the Turks, Andiffelo. It consists of only three or four
houses and a custom-house: the building in which we have
taken up our abode is appointed for the use of strangers, and
stands out on a rock into the sea like a bathing-machine.
In our room we are here supplied with, or rather we have
found, a mat spread over the floor: this has its disadvantages
in a warm climate, for as I reclined upon my mattress I saw
creeping from behind my head up the wall a large scorpion;
I had scarcely time to examine its lobster-like appearance
before my servant killed it in great haste, wishing, for some
superstitious reason, to put it into the fire; its body was
354
LYCIA.
about five inches long, the tail and the claws about three,
appearing thick and large for its body. Having landed our
provisions and killed a sheep, we were again prepared for a
return into the mountains, towards the east, in search of
other Lycian cities hitherto unvisited by Europeans.
April 26th, Cassabar.-This place is situated in a large
valley, extensively cultivated and watered by a considerable
river, formed by three united streams from the south-west,
west, and north. The town, or rather large scattered vil-
lage, is at the south-western end, and has a walled konak,
which has probably been the stronghold of some Derebbe, a
bazaar, and a minareted mosque, the only one I have seen
in Lycia. The surrounding soil is deep, rich, and generally
arable.
On leaving Antiphellus we ascended the steep mountain-
chain towards the north-east for about seven miles, when we
came to the little village of Avvalah, with its small cultivated
plain. Traversing this, we saw at its southern extremity a
sarcophagus and the remains of walls upon the rock above,
but of so trifling an extent that we did not leave our track
to examine them. In another hour we gained the summit
of this elevated chain of mountains, leaving behind us one
of perhaps the most beautifully varied coasts in the world.
Before us lay a deep ravine, in the chain of richly-wooded
mountains, carrying the eye down to this extensive valley,
with its winding streams; the whole was bounded by ranges
of snowy mountains, while others peered above them, forming
the eastern coast of Lycia, extending from Mount Phoenix
in the south to Mount Climax in the north.
The hills within the valley, and through which we de-
scended, are of limestone, in thin layers, distorted into most
fantastic forms by volcanic heavings: the strata are often
shivered into regular squares, some appearing like paving-
tiles, and others as small as the pavements of Roman mosaic.
This crumbling material is being washed down into the val-
MYRA.
355
leys, cutting the hills into deep ravines, which continually
crossed the path as we descended their sides. The weather
is at this season extremely changeable: we have had storms
almost daily; and to-day, the Easter Sunday of the Greeks,
the rain has not yet ceased, and noon is past. On my former
travels, during the same season, I was scarcely detained a
single day by the bad weather. I hear that it was as re-
markably dry as this is a rainy season.
April 27th.-We are now at Myra, the ancient name per-
petuated by the Greeks, but called by the Turks Dembre.
Yesterday the rain came down in torrents incessantly, and
we remained busily employed in sketching and writing in
our little hut, which was scarcely proof against the heavy
rain. The night was fair, and as the waters in this region
rapidly subside, we started at ten o'clock in the morning for
this place, a distance of seven hours, about twenty-five miles.
For the first eight miles we traversed the valley of Cassa-
bar; after crossing three tributary streams from the north
we arrived at a village, where another small river met
us from the east. I saw the course of this with surprise,
thinking it the stream which we had followed on our right;
but the latter had suddenly disappeared, and this new
one entered with us a narrow cleft in the rocks to the
south: the rock and river together did not occupy ten yards
of space between the perpendicular rocks, whose sides were
here excavated with Lycian tombs. On our right was a
rocky mountain, crowned with a towered wall of early Greek
construction. This fortified mountain was singularly iso-
lated; it arose almost perpendicularly from our valley, with
the rest of the range, and I have said that on the east side
it was cut through by a river and our road. On the west,
the great river of our valley had disappeared into a still nar-
rower chasm, about a quarter of a mile before we came to
this mountain. These streams meet in a deep ravine, half
a mile southward, making the rock of this city almost an
356
LYCIA.
island. These ruins, from their position, may probably be
the site of the city of Trabala.
It is common for people to extol the objects of present
excitement above any they have ever seen, but, as I rode for
five hours through a pass of the mountains, calling to recol-
lection the scenery of Britain, Germany, Switzerland, Italy,
and Greece, I must say that I have never before met with
any of this description so magnificently beautiful and so
lengthened. It is a gorge unaccountably formed through
a range of mountains many thousand feet in height, and so
narrow that the river alone occupies the ravine. Our track
was down its bed, and we crossed and recrossed its waters, as
they rushed from side to side, above thirty times: the stream
was generally about four feet deep.
This narrow valley, generally bearing to the south-east,
wound about continually, leaving us for the first ten miles
apparently locked in by the grandest cliffs of limestone,
every ledge nurturing a tree: the extent of our view never
exceeded half a mile. The valley then slightly widened,
allowing a few luxuriant trees to grow upon the banks of
the river: and the goatherd's pipe and the bleating of his
flock broke the monotonous grandeur of the sound of rush-
ing waters, which was echoed by the cliffs on either side.
For another hour the valley continued narrow, but the cliffs
fell back into more wooded mountains, and in an hour more
our route suddenly opened upon the plain of Myra: the
river, after running four or five miles through these well-
cultivated districts, finds its course to the sea.
The fatigue of excitement, from the beauty and singula-
rity of the scenery, made me rejoice at reaching this an-
cient city; and the bodily fatigue to the baggage-horses, of
wading so often through the rapid water, scarcely left them
strength to reach the end of the journey. A few miles be-
fore we arrived at the termination of the ravine several
remains of Greek-built towers rose from amidst the trees,
MYRA.
357
on the points of rocks, apparently inaccessible; and at the
opening of the ravine commenced the cutting of an aqueduct
in the face of the perpendicular cliff, which we traced on our
right hand to the ancient city. In following its now broken
course numbers of highly ornamented tombs caught my eye,
and promised full occupation for a day or two's sojourn
amongst them.
358
CHAPTER XXI.
RUINS OF MYRA.-TOMBS.-COLOURED BAS-RELIEFS.-RUINS.-PASSAGE
OF MOUNTAIN TO PHINEKA. ANCIENT ISIUM?-LIMYRA.-SCULP-
TURES AND INSCRIPTION.-ANCIENT,BRIDGE.-GAGE.-EXCURSION
BY THE PROMONTARIUM SACRUM TO OLYMPUS.-A DESERTED VIL-
LAGE.-VALLEY OF THE ARYCANDUS.-TOMBS.-RUINS.-DISCOVERY
OF ARYCANDA.-ITS RUINS.
April 28th.-Myra was among the most important of the
Lycian cities, and its ruins appear to be little injured by
age. The city must have extended far over the plains, in
front of the rock, which has now the theatre at its foot, and
a multitude of beautiful tombs cut in its cliff; I say this,
judging from the very reasonable arguments advanced by
Mr. Cockerell, that the size of a theatre is a good indication
of the population of a city. The theatre at Myra is among
the largest and the best built in Asia Minor: much of its fine
corridor and corniced proscenium remains; the upper seats
have disappeared, but the present crop of wheat occupies.
little more than the area; probably about six feet of earth
may have accumulated upon its surface. As an argument
against the former great size of the city, I should bring the
proportionate small number of tombs now existing in the
rocks, although, as at Telmessus, many of the inhabitants
may have been entombed in sarcophagi on the plain which
have perhaps disappeared; certainly the tombs that remain
MYRA.
359
could not have contained a single generation of the people.
The tombs are generally very large, and all appear to have
been for families; some having small chambers, one leading
to the other, and some highly interesting from their interior
peculiarities of arrangement. The external ornaments are
here enriched by sculptured statues in the rocks around,
and these in the chaste style of the Lycians, whose language,
with one exception, is universal in the inscriptions here; but
the tombs are mostly without any inscription whatever.
Within the porticoes of several of the tombs (for many of
these, like those at Tlos and Pinara, have a lobby or porch)
are bas-reliefs in better preservation than those in other
cities. Some of these have additional interest, from retain-
ing the colours with which they were painted, and removing
another of the few doubts I still entertain of these people
having been connected with the ancient inhabitants of Etru-
ria. The custom of colouring their statues, as well as the
mode of doing it, and the similarity of the action of the
figures, will strike every one. The letters of the inscription
were painted alternately blue and red*. The sculpture upon
* The satisfaction which I derived on my return to Athens, in renew-
ing my acquaintance with the justly celebrated Professor Müller, has
made me more aware of the immense loss which Europe has sustained
by the death of one of her greatest scholars in all the vigour of life. I
wish that I could remember the many valuable remarks he made upon
the subject of my discoveries, in which he took a most lively interest.
On seeing the coloured drawing of this tomb, he expressed the following
opinion as to the mode of colouring adopted by the Greeks in their works
of art:—“The ancients painted their bas-reliefs: they only tinged their
statues; tinging the drapery, leaving the flesh part uncoloured; the
wounds and blood were stained, and the ear-rings and ornaments gilded.
Their temples were left white, but parts of the frieze and architectural
ornaments were coloured, but very minutely. Their temples of coarser
materials were plastered, and entirely coloured. The Parthenon frieze
was coloured, all the backgrounds of their bas-reliefs were painted."-
This was his opinion at Athens, June 26th, 1840.
360
LYCIA.
the tombs is of the finest age for ease, simplicity, and beauty
of proportion.
On the plains of Myra are scattered many ruins, but at
great distances from each other; and wherever the fine stand-
ing corn does not surround them a swamp is the cause of
the want of cultivation, and either of these prevents our
close examination. One pile nearer to the sea is known,
from inscriptions found, to have been a granary built in the
time of Adrian. Another clump at a short distance from
us is of the middle ages, and until lately boasted the posses-
sion of the bones of St. Nicholas; but these have been trans-
ported to Russia, and a Greek priest alone remains within
the holy walls, which were formerly the object of pilgrimages
to the tomb of this favourite saint of the Greek church, whose
birth-place is still holy ground at Patara. This saint appears
to be more venerated here than St. Paul, who visited Myra
on his voyage to Rome*.
The old priest tells us that he alone is left upon the plain
after the middle of May, as every hut in this village and on
the plain is then deserted for the mountains, on account of
the heat and the appearance of an overwhelming number of
mosquitos or gnats. A large black fly also appears at that
season, which stings the cattle; at its approach they are
described running as if mad into the mountains.
The peasants here are very attentive in keeping back
their fierce dogs, and rendering any assistance in their power,
but they are not antiquarians: they know no distinction be-
tween tombs, towers, and theatres, and cannot recognize in
the statues the likeness of man. In reply to our inquiries
after coins, the people told us that they had collected none,
adding that these were the money of Ghiaours, which they
would not touch; they went however to inquire if the chil-
dren had, in ignorance, picked up any, but I regret that the
.
* Acts xxvii. 5.
MYRA.
361
search was unsuccessful. The people say that many Franks
have been to see the "old castles' here, but that there are more
high up in the mountains to the north, now covered with snow,
about three hours' climbing from this place. The improba-
bility of a city of importance having existed in a region
where the snows remain so late in the season, and the incon-
venience and delay of visiting probably merely some strong-
hold of former times, made us resolve to proceed on our
route towards Phineka, a distance of nine hours. The Greek
priest says that we ought to remain here three years, to see
all the ruins in the country.
April 29th, Phineka.-This is a little village about two
miles up a navigable river from the sea; its name resembles
that of the ancient appellation of this district-Phoenicus:
the indigenous palm-trees reminded me of the origin of the
name, unless perhaps the generic name of the plant may
have had its derivation from this district.
On leaving Myra this morning, we traversed the plain
towards the east, and crossing the river, which was carrying
down hundreds of sticks of timber, we ascended a wooded
hill to the little village of Vourtarpessa. From this slight
elevation we had a fine view of the whole plain, and could
study its geography. In the vegetable world I have observed
several additions to my already numerous list of luxuriant
trees and shrubs: these are the barberry, which is here a
large tree, and now in bloom; the castor-oil, the stems of
which are as thick as a man's body, and are now in blossom,
with formed fruit and the seed of last year, all clustered be-
neath the large rich leaf; and the pistacia, called here by
the Greeks the chickurea, which has a richer appearance than
our dark ash, but not so much so as the carob, which is here
the principal tree of the hills, affording a welcome shade at
all seasons. At Myra, among the rocks flourishes a beauti-
ful kind of aloe; the flowers seldom exceed three or four feet
in height, and two or three branches spring from its stem;
R
362
LYCIA.
the colour is a rich yellow, and the leaf is like that of a small
American aloe*. I observed numerous varieties of the onion
tribe, and added greatly to my collection of plants, but tra-
velling is not favourable to their preservation.
On leaving the plains of Myra we had a fine view of the
lake, or rather inlet from the sea, from which it is separated
only by a low bank of sand; at the eastern end it is connected
with the sea by a channel, and this, being a favourable posi-
tion for a fishery, is much valued by the Greeks, who have
here an establishment for salting the fish. The waters on
the coast of this country are generally so deep that fish is
by no means plentiful, and is sought to advantage only at the
the mouth, or in the shallows formed by the rivers.
In and upon the swampy sides of this lake is said to have
stood a city, and the little streams which occasionally run
from the mountains on the east have been supposed to be
the ancient Limyrus. Buildings are seen beneath the waters
by the fishermen ; but the insignificance of the stream, and
the low situation of the city, seem to me opposed to the idea
On the hill to the north,
of its having been a Greek site.
about a mile from the lake, we passed a castle or building
consisting of two square towers walled round, all of ancient
Greek and good masonry; but we observed no other indica-
tion of a former people.
From our road for the next six hours I warn other travel-
lers who attempt to transport their baggage. It is totally
unfit for horses, more from the extreme labour of the rapid
and unceasing ascent, than from the craggy or dangerous
road. For three hours we did not find a level large enough
for a horse to stand upon, and at the end of that time
we were among numerous sarcophagi upon the ridge of a
mountain about five thousand feet above the undisturbed
blue mirror of the sea at its base. Above these tombs was
* Aloë vulgaris.
LIMYRA.
363
a walled city, accessible only from this northern ridge on
which we stood; for it crowned the end of a fine range of
mountains, whose summit of snow we now traced, and whose
base we had traversed from the north-west towards Cassabar.
This was probably the ancient Isium.
What a wonderful people the ancient Greeks were! This
mountain country was literally strewed with cities and stately
towers, which stand uninjured and unoccupied two thousand
years after their builders are removed! Descending from this
elevation, we again crossed a lower chain of mountains to-
wards the east, and then rapidly descended to the plain of
Phineka. We passed several Greek-built towers, each com-
manding splendid and extensive views down their several
ravines. Near the sea the palm-trees grow as shrubs, and
seem indigenous to this part.
April 30th.—To give the horses rest after the fatigue and
strain of yesterday, we have this morning walked to examine
the remains of the ancient Limyra. Had we been able to
cross the portion of the valley opposite-due east of this
place the distance could not have exceeded three miles;
but to avoid the swamp, and the tortuous and deep clear
streams of various rivers, we had to skirt the plains for more
than six miles. We passed the scattered village of Demer-
geecooe, inhabited chiefly by Chinganees, who are employed
in rearing cattle: we had to send for them to this village to
shoe our horses. These gipsies are generally a people pos-
sessing considerable property in stock, and are probably in-
duced to form here a larger colony than usual by the extreme
luxuriance of the climate: their huts are almost buried amid
fruit-trees.
Near this village we crossed most of the streams by bridges,
or, when sufficiently shallow, we forded them, and in half an
hour reached the ruins of the ancient city of Limyra. A fine
stately sarcophagus was the first indication of our approach,
and this monument I found to be of high interest, from having
R 2
364
LYCIA.
upon its front, by the side of a door (which has had a portico),
a bilingual inscription, Lycian and Greek. I think this is
the one copied by Mr. Cockerell, and published in Walpole's
Travels; but I have taken a faithful copy, and hope that it
may prove a different one, affording additional assistance in
deciphering the language. Hundreds of tombs cut in the
rocks, and quite excavating the long ribs of its protruding
strata, as they curved down the sides of the mountain, soon
came in view, and their examination occupied some hours.
The inscriptions were almost all Lycian,-some few Greek,
but these were always inferior in execution, some being
merely scratched upon the surface, while the Lycian were cut.
deeply in the stone, and many richly coloured; the letters
being alternately red and blue, or in others green, yellow,
or red.
Connected with some of these inscribed tombs were beau-
tiful bas-reliefs, mythological decorations, and battle-scenes,
all illustrating the history of the earliest times, perhaps the
age of Homer. Some retain their colours, others scarcely
their form, as the weather from their several aspects has
affected them. A spirited battle-scene* has various Lycian
names written beneath each group, which may serve to illus-
trate and give increased interest to one another.
Beyond these tombs lay the city, marked by many foun-
dations, and by a long wall with towers. Further on is a
very pretty theatre, in the front of which winds a river, which
suddenly appears in the neighbourhood. Beyond this stood
another fine sarcophagus, sculptured with beautiful bas-re-
liefs, but in a very mutilated state.
This attracted our attention to many more tombs cut in
the rocks, in various styles of architecture; some, of the
Ionic order, are in high preservation. At the entrance of
one of the rock-tombs were sculptured two fine figures, pro-
bably mythological. The tombs here are far more numerous
* See the Plate given in my larger work.
LIMYRA.
365


than at Myra, but the size of the theatre bespeaks a smaller
population.
366
LYCIA.
May 1st.-Another month has commenced, and how
little do I know of Lycia! I shall be obliged to leave much
gleaning in this district alone, and still more is undiscovered
in Pamphylia: but the province of Lycia, which has never
been corrupted by the Roman or Christian styles, and re-
tains the simple beauty of the early Greek, has for me the
greatest attractions.
This morning we left Phineka for this village, called
Haggevalleh. The distance is five hours, reckoning by time,
for we have had again to skirt the plain and repass Limyra.
Continuing at the foot of the mountain for two miles be-
yond that city, we found, quite separated from it, a large
collection of ornamented tombs in the rocks, but no walls or
indications of another city; these therefore must probably
be added to the cemeteries of Limyra. The inscriptions,
with a single exception, were all Lycian, and this had Greek
letters over one panel, and over the other an Eastern cha-
racter unknown to me, much resembling the letters upon the
coins of Phoenicia. Still skirting the plains, we soon arrived
at an ancient Greek bridge, over a very wide but shallow
river, having twenty-five arches, all beautifully formed with
large tiles.
The top of the bridge is quite flat, and paved
with the original Greek squared stones, which are of immense
size: it is about twelve feet wide, and does not appear to
have had any parapets. Near the foot of this bridge is
the village of Armootlee, with a substantially-built mosque
and towers, apparently of the middle ages, now forming the
ruined establishment of the Aga. Another small village near
is called Hascooe.
What would be the produce of this plain of Phineka
under the management of an active and industrious people!
The extreme luxuriance of the soil can alone account for
the multitude of cities of the ancient inhabitants, who, if
I remember rightly, looked for little produce from foreign
nations, and themselves supplied armies larger than ever
GAGE
367
assembled from other parts of the earth; this mountainous
district of Lycia was not wanting in her musters at Troy
and Marathon:
"The warlike bands that distant Lycia yields,
Where gulphy Xanthus foams along the fields*."
The ruins of this village, I fancy, must be those of Gaga.
They stand upon, and between, two isolated rocks, now
literally covered with walls. Under these hills runs a con-
siderable river from the north-east, over which are the
remains of an aqueduct that formerly brought water from
the opposite mountain for the use of the city. A small
theatre also remains, in good preservation. Inscriptions
there are none, and, what is more singular, we could only
discover one tomb in the rocks. I account for this from
the nature of the stone, which is here, as in many similar
mounds in the immediate neighbourhood, protruded by
volcanic powers, and is so hardened and cracked that to
work it is impossible. This may also explain the very in-
ferior workmanship of almost all the walls, which are com-
posed of chips of stone, and even boulders, held together with
cement: the theatre and one or two walls are exceptions.
The singular protruding hills around are described by
Captain Beaufort, in his Survey, as appearing from the sea
like tumuli. I do not see in the general appearance of the
ruins of this place any traces of an after people-no old
material built into the walls; but there are several indica-.
tions of the former existence of a Christian church, perhaps
of a late date. Probably these ruins may not be many
centuries old. At the present time the Greek Church holds
several spots along this coast, sacred to the memory of St.
Nicholas, St. John, and St. Paul.
*
May 2nd.-Leaving Haggevalleh, we passed in half an hour
the somewhat large village of Eetheree. The old konak here
Iliad, book 2.
368
LYCIA.
appeared going to ruin: the new Agas do not take pos-
session of these establishments, but leave them open for
any stranger to occupy; should fire-wood be scarce, a rafter
from the roof or planks from the floor are torn up for the
purpose.
We skirted the plain of the bay of Phineka, along the
richly-wooded slopes of the mountains curving towards the
south-east, and afterwards to the south, and arrived in three
hours at a village called Phineka-cooe. From this point we
ascended a wooded mountain, and descended upon the
beautiful little bay formed by Cape Chelidonia, the ancient
Promontarium Sacrum, which is carried onward into the
sea by the rocky islands beyond its point. I observed a
few tombs cut in the cliffs in this wild neighbourhood.
Colonel Leake, in his map, suggests that Melanippe is likely
to be found here.
Turning to the north, we followed a ravine which led to a
pastoral district inhabited by yourooks, tending their flocks
of sheep; and after traversing for three hours this bold
but rich scenery, we took an easterly direction, and de-
scended rapidly the deep ravine leading to the bay of
Atrasarny. We soon passed some high peaks of rocks,
which appeared as if the mountain had been built up by a
Cyclopean people and an earthquake had shaken down their
gigantic structures. After a ride of seven hours we arrived
at the village of Atrasarny, every hut of which was com-
pletely concealed in an orchard or labyrinth of fruit-trees.
I amused myself by noticing the various kinds*, all proba-
bly scattered here by nature, for I find several of the Turk-
ish names of the villages imply their natural productions of
fruit.
The scenery of this promontory is unique, in its com-
* Pomegranate, vine, orange, apricot, peach, walnut, carob, almond,
mulberry, pistacia, pear, gegefer, and fig; above and amidst the rocks
were the olive, plane, oak, stone-pine, and cypress.
PROMONTARIUM SACRUM.
369
bination of sublime grandeur with the most luxuriant rich-
ness of vegetation. The stems of many myrtles, through
extensive woods of which we rode yesterday, were a foot in
diameter, and generally six or eight inches; the strawberry-
arbutus and the daphne-laurel are here large trees. In the
animal world nature exhibits less variety. How I envy its
universal tongue! the birds sing the same song, and all the
various flocks have the same voice-their instincts are uni-
versal. This morning flies bit the horses, swallows skimmed
over the ground, and rain followed in torrents; the cattle all
turned their backs to the beating storm, and the sea-birds
flew to the shore. I was amused by watching a chameleon
which crossed my path, about eighteen inches long, and with
its tail curved upwards, walking exactly as we should do on
all fours; its forelegs had the same motion as our hands
would have, at each step contracting the palms and lifting
the feet unnecessarily high from the ground. The motion
of this singular but beautiful little animal is very slow, its
rolling eyeballs and quick tongue moving almost too rapidly
to be perceptible; I observed that its colour varied, without
the animal being in any way alarmed, as it passed the several
shades of the earth, the grass, and the rocks. We have
shot a few of the birds of gay plumage, the Bee-eater and
the Roller, for their skins; but the trouble of preparing
the whole myself is greater than I can undertake, knowing
from my collection on the last journey that few of these birds
differ from those which annually visit England. Among
the flowers, the most striking now in bloom is the splendid
snake-grass (Arum Dracunculus). The beauty of this is
quite overlooked by the flower-admiring Turk, who holds it
in disgust entirely on account of its fetid smell; while the
most minute flower, and even the budding leaves of the
walnut and other trees, are continually presented from one
to another on account of their sweetness.
May 3rd. We have hitherto had but few disappointments
M
R 3
370
LYCIA.
arising from the accounts of ruins given by the people, but
we have now lost several days, owing to the variety of names
for the same village, and to the misrepresentation of the
ruins by a Greek priest, who told us of a beautiful temple
and columns, and other remains, in the mountain: the name
of the place was Cheralee. In our search for this, we have
merely come to the Genoese town of Deliktash, upon the
coast, which I have before visited and described as the
ancient Olympus. It certainly does contain the basement
of the walls of a temple, but there is no appearance of its
ever having had columns; nor is it at all seen above the
wilderness of bushes and Genoese walls by which it is sur-
rounded. I find that the name given to the coast generally
is Cheralee. Probably from the circumstance of the Greeks
visiting this place from the sea only (on their trading expe-
ditions for fire-wood, with which this coast abounds), the
description of the ruins given by them differs much from the
accounts of persons who could compare them with the ruined
cities of the interior. A ride of two hours from Atrasarny,
through a deep ravine between high cliffs and peaks of rock
standing out boldly from the pine-forests beneath, brought
us to the sea at Deliktash. Disappointed at finding myself
in a place I cared little to see again, we turned our horses'
heads and retraced our steps up the ravine; and keeping
along its rapid little river, in less than two hours we arrived
at a few houses called, from the river, Chicooe.
in-
On entering the village we had difficulty in finding any
habitants, which was afterwards thus accounted for: during
the old system of governing this country, every facility was
given by the Pashas, and all grades of officials under them,
for cultivating the ground and increasing and maintaining
their own influence: this individual exertion, and the capital
lent by these governors for the purchase of seed, together
with pecuniary assistance to increase the stock, are now
withdrawn, and the various Pashas have sent to seize upon
OLYMPUS.
371
all the stock and crops of last year for the full payment of
their loans. The distress is consequently very great: the
barley, which is in Asia Minor the food of horses only, has
been all consumed by the people, and until the corn ripens
they are living almost wholly upon herbs. In other cases,
as in this village, where the crops were derived from different
sources, such as fruit, silk, or tobacco, the people, on being
deprived of all their harvest, have left the place: only two
families remain to represent Chicooe, which is described as
having had within these two years a large and wealthy popu-
lation: the fences, fountains, sheds, and cultivated mulberry-
trees confirm this account. This is the natural consequence
of so great and sudden a change of system; in a few years
it may perhaps work better; but the Turk still has the same
manners, and as yet but his days are numbered-commands.
the peasantry.
Our cavalcade was shunned by the few remaining villagers,
under the idea that we were Turks, who, when they pass
through, consume the little store of the half-ruined people;
and, if not supplied, the whip is applied to make them seek
it from the flocks. When the villagers were told that we

372
LYCIA.
were willing to pay for what we required, and a few eggs
were purchased at the rate of six for a penny, supplies were
brought from all quarters-fowls, milk, butter, youghoort,
and honey.
May 4th.-We are again at Armootlee. Leaving our
fruitful little village on the river of Olympus, we continued
a steep ascent towards the west for nearly three hours, pass-
ing from the mountain-limestone of the high crags encircling
us, over an isolated mound (about half a mile in extent)
of granite and other volcanic productions, accompanied of
course by a zone of slaty, hard-baked, and shivered limestone.
Within a few miles of this spot, toward the north-east, is
the Yanah Dah, or Burning Mountain, which I regret being
unable to visit; there is a small aperture in the rock, through
which a stream of inflammable gas has issued continually,
and unvarying, from time beyond the reach of history; it is
mentioned by Pliny, and is now, as formerly, connected with
many tales of superstition. Some writers have supposed
this phenomenon to have identified these mountains as the
scene of the Chimæra. Their tops are much frequented by
eagles and vultures, and the district is that of Mount Phoenix.
Whence had we the emblem of the Phoenix rising from the
flames?
On the summit of the mountain we were ascending stood
the village of Ballintayer, which commanded a splendid
panoramic view, including the range of high mountains on
the eastern coast-broken by the deep gorges in which stand
the ancient cities of Olympus and Phaselis. The beauty of
the natural scenery is unaltered, and the blue sea stretches
across the openings in the mountains, carrying the eye on
to the extended and snow-capped range of the Taurus until
it is lost in the horizon. Traversing the wooded summit of
this mountain, we kept on a westward course, until a rapid
descent brought us down upon the valley at Eetheree: a ride
of two more hours along the plain completed our journey.
VALLEY OF THE ARYCANdus.
373
Not having in this excursion found the ancient city of
Corydalla, I feel sure that it must lie up the valley at the
north of Gage; but being unable to hear of any ruins there,
and having wasted several days, I shall leave this city for
others to explore, and tomorrow proceed on my way toward
the interior of the country.
May 5th.-My tent is pitched about twenty miles up the
valley of the ancient Arycandus, to the north of Limyra. A
journal, after all, is only a register of the state of the mind
as impressed by the objects of the day; I shall therefore not
hesitate to describe my own feelings, and confess that I
never felt less inclined or less able to put to paper any re-
marks than the impressions produced by my ride during the
last five hours. I have heard others speak of a melancholy
being caused by the overwhelming effect of the sublime ; but
it is not melancholy when better analysed; it is a thought-
fulness and feeling of gratified pleasure which affects me,
and I long to express what perhaps is better indicated by
the prostration of the Oriental worshiper than by any verbal
description; I feel as if I had come into the world and seen
the perfection of its loveliness, and was satisfied. I know
no scenery equal in sublimity and beauty to this part of
Lycia.
The mere mention of mountain scenery cannot give any
idea of the mountains here, which are broken into sections.
forming cliffs, whose upheaved strata stand erect in peaks
many thousand feet high, uniting to form a wild chaos, but
each part harmonized by the other; for all is grand, yet
lovely. Deep in the ravines dash torrents of the purest
water, and over these grow the most luxuriant trees; above
are the graver forests of pines upon the grey cliffs, and
higher than these are ranges of mountains capped with snow,
contrasting with the deep blue of the cloudless sky. But to
the details of the road.
Recrossing the ancient Greek bridge, which I find to be
374
LYCIA.
four hundred and sixty-two yards in length, we again passed
the ruins of Limyra and its extended district of tombs, to
the village of Demergee, at which place we took a northerly
direction up the narrow valley of the river, probably the
ancient Arycandus. About six miles from Limyra we saw
on the brow of a cliff above us some beautiful tombs, in such
good preservation that they appeared but the work of yes-
terday. On examination I found that this was effected in
the following manner: the overhanging rock was carefully
sloped into a roof, and a regular gutter cut in this, carrying
off all the dripping water from the sculptured tomb, which
thus remains unstained as on the day of its formation, above
two thousand years ago. My disappointment as well as
surprise was great, that such beautiful and important tombs
should not have been inscribed or painted; there were about
twenty, in the same rock,—one representing novelties in
architecture somewhat Persian, and more perfect than we
had before seen. These tombs are now closed with wooden
doors, and serve as the locked granaries of the peasantry in
the neighbourhood. I have carefully sketched one of them,
which stands upon the top of the cliff; the rock has been
cut away, leaving it a solid piece with the cliff. I have
selected this tomb, as showing perhaps more distinctly than
usual that these monuments are close imitations of wooden
buildings. This is perceptible in most of the tombs in
Lycia; but here are seen imitations of the ties, bolts, joints,
and mouldings, so peculiar to the art of carpentry. No trace
whatever of a town is visible, but the situation led us to
seek Arycanda. Two miles further up the valley, many
broken sarcophagi of a heavy form lay on the side of the
mountains, and by the road several walls were built into the
rocks; three piles of buildings, with arched windows and
small apartments, stood within a few hundred yards of each
other. This must have been an ancient town, but not of
much importance, judging from the rude materials employed.
ARYCANDA.
375
Proceeding onwards for an hour more, walls and sarco-
phagi were scattered around us, but on none of these were
any inscriptions legible: they all occupied sites worthy of
the ancients,—indeed in this valley it would be difficult to
find any otherwise. The Turks generally select the low
swampy plain, and we have consequently not yet seen in this
valley any village. We are in our tent, on a knoll or pro-
montory standing over the river, which dashes round three
sides of our encampment, some hundred feet beneath. The
fir-trees around are a study for an artist, and the high moun-
tains above us vary in beauty according to their aspect. I
have just discovered that we are not entirely shut out of the
world; the crowing of a cock attracted my attention to the
beautiful over-shot wheel of a water-mill, and the owner is
wading across the stream with eggs and provisions for our
meal.
May 6th.—We have reached Avelan, about twenty-five
miles north-west of our last night's encampment. For ten
miles the road continued up the river, occasionally crossing
and recrossing it by bridges of the simplest construction, the
lofty trees reaching from the rocks on either side, and a
number of smaller ones being laid transversely. The scenery
only changed its beauties: the richer fruit-trees disappeared
as we gradually ascended, and the pines and walnuts suc-
ceeded; the plane still shadowed the course of the river, its
branches stretching over the roaring stream. The rocks
became less craggy and wooded, and gradually assumed the
wilder grandeur of mountains, the fir-trees clothing their
sides up to the snowy tops. The river, I may now say with
certainty, is the Arycandus; for at about thirty-five miles
from the sea, and ten on our journey of to-day, we found the
extensive ruins of a city, and in one inscription the name of
Arycamda. There is great excitement and pleasure in dis-
covering these cities, once so splendid, and whose sites even
have been for twenty centuries unknown.
376
LYCIA.
Close to the road on our left, and standing upon a preci-
pitous promontory, at the foot of which wound the river,
were the ruins of a city, but apparently one of those I should
class as Venetian or Genoese. Some hewn stones around
the doors, and a few columns, as well as the corner-stones of
the walls, showed the power of execution; but the rest of
the numerous buildings were formed of small stones, unhewn
and held together chiefly by cement, which I have never
found to be the case in those of the early Greeks. No
theatre or other public building was visible; and seeking
elsewhere for more remains, I saw at the distance of a mile
and a half, up the side of the mountain on our right, mas-
sive Greek walls of considerable extent. Leaving our horses,
we went to explore them, and soon found an inscription, but
too imperfect for me to copy the whole without much
trouble, and awaiting the change of light. The name of
Arycamda however caught my eye, and we copied the line
containing it, without reference to any other part of the in-
scription, and then proceeded through the numerous tombs
around, hoping to find others more perfect. The absence of
other inscriptions, and the interesting names of Themistocles
and Attica occurring in this fragment, which I did not notice
until I was many miles distant, make me regret my want of
perseverance in not endeavouring to copy the whole: there
were four preceding lines and one following.
C
Passing the tombs, we saw that this highly ornamented
city had been built on the side of a steep mountain, and that
the buildings had formed terraces one above the other. To
one series of these I cannot give a name; they were gene-
rally rooms twenty to thirty feet square, covered by one fine
arch, the walls Cyclopean-built into, and with, the rock
behind the front alone was visible, the roof often serving
as a terrace for buildings above. The beautiful execution of
the doorways in front, which were coeval with the Cyclopean
walls, may be seen from the accompanying sketch.
ARYCANDA.
377
T
The large doorway represented in the subjoined woodcut
is in the centre; within, the arched roof was generally plas-
tered, and had been painted; along the back, and half-way
down each side, was a raised bench, five feet wide, the height
suitable for a seat, but far too deep; there was no appear-
ance of recesses for lamps or other purposes, usually found
in the mausoleums of the ancient Greeks.

*
SAD
茶​鮮
​Fas
KAREA
ఇ
EFONERZEN ZENFENSEN EIGENVEDÉE DE GRANDE TEEN TIED NEDANIE
KAYA
A VISHANGRA ANANASEMAKAN DU
ENTERPIE L
These buildings appear too large for tombs, and they must
have been, I think, small for temples. The ornaments were
not funereal, and no inscription occurred but the following:
378
LYCIA.

+
NHKA*.
The above inscription was cut upon the wall of one of these
buildings, of the Corinthian style of ornament, and is a
strong argument for their having been temples; it may also
be of interest to the moralist, probably describing the exulta-
tion of the Christians of the Byzantine age over the van-
quished Pagans; how soon did the Christians disappear
before the Moslems, and how has time robbed both of this
now ruined and deserted district! I should attribute the
style of these buildings to the time of the Roman emperors;
they are not sufficiently simple in their ornaments for an
earlier age.
A coin found amidst the ruins bears the name
of the city Arycanda, and the head of the emperor Gordian.
At the back of the theatre, which stood still higher up the
mountain, was a wall, with buttresses to oppose the ava-
lanches of stones rolling down a slight ravine in the rocks;
but this has given way before the masses which have fallen
during so many centuries, and have buried the back or centre
seats of the theatre; the rest were quite perfect, and the
proscenium could be traced by its bold Cyclopean walls.
Below the theatre was a platform, which had seats on the
rising side of the rock and at the ends: this I imagined to
be a stadium, but the length of the course was only eighty
yards. The most conspicuous building in the city had seve-
ral halls, and two tiers of windows at the end; some of these
halls terminated (like several others I have seen in Greek
* "It conquers"?
ARYCANDA.
379
cities) with a fine arch and a circular end; within this recess
were windows, the whole being on a large scale. There were
numerous other piles of ruins, to which I can give no name,
as well as several detached kind of towers, of fine massive
Greek structure: these are scattered at some distance from
the ruins of the city.
Leaving Arycanda, we in half an hour crossed a river,
which appeared suddenly from the mountains to the east,
forming a main tributary to the Arycandus; the city might
therefore be said to be at the head of the river as soon as it
became worthy of a name. This valley, as we continued its
ascent, became more wild, and fir-trees and cedars alone re-
mained to clothe the rocks; the few patches of cultivation
indicated a change of season, caused by our increased eleva-
tion. The corn, which we had the day before seen changing
colour for the harvest, was here not an inch above the ground,
and the buds of the bushes were not yet bursting.
Having left the course of the river for about three hundred
yards, we found on our return that its bed was dry. Riding
up the stony ravine until we reached a ridge, we descended
slightly for about a mile and a half to Avelan, which consists
of only three houses: although in a comparatively cold
region, we have preferred the tent to the stable-like accom-
modation these huts afforded.
380
CHAPTER XXII.
AVELAN.ITS LAKE. — EXTENSIVE PLAINS. — DISAPPEARANCE OF A
RIVER.-ALMALEE.-ITS POPULATION. MOSQUES.-TRADE.-SITE OF
ANCIENT CITY, PROBABLY PODALIA.-SOURCE OF RIVERS.-PASSAGE
OF MOUNTAIN.-HIGH PLAINS. THE YEEILASSIES.-ANNUAL MIGRA-
TION OF THE TRIBES.-VALLEY OF THE XANTHUS.-MACRY.-RHODES.
-CITY OF RHODES.-SAILORS.-LAVISSE.-CARMYLESSUS.-RETURN
TO THE YEEILASSIES.-REVIEW OF LYCIA.
May 8th, Almalee. This district is entirely unknown to
Europeans, and has quite a distinct character from that of
the country through which we have before passed: no maps
of course exist. The disadvantages of this are very great, as
we know not where to steer or what places to ask for; but
there are also advantages, and the surprise on arriving last
evening at Avelan was one, for at this elevation (above
three thousand feet above the sea) we found a large lake,
three or four miles wide and ten long, and a plain of three
times that size covered with corn just springing above the
ground, without a tree to break the perfect monotony of the
level. At the north-east end of this plain stands the largest
town in Lycia-almost the largest in Asia Minor; it far ex-
ceeds the size of Idin, and probably contains twenty-five thou
sand inhabitants. We were in some degree prepared to ex-
pect this, by the hundreds of people we yesterday met on
the road, at the distance of twenty miles, returning from the
ALMALEE.
381
market held in this town. Our road today for the first six
miles skirted the lake to the north and north-west, and at
the foot of mountains covered with cedars and large trees of
the arbor vitæ. The shrubs are the rose, the barberry, and
wild almond, but all are at present fully six weeks later than
those in the country we have lately passed. I observed on
the lake (called by the people Avelangouluh) many stately
wild swans, and several large red-ducks; smaller waterfowl
were numerous.
This plain is the largest tract of corn-land, and the best
cultivated, that I have seen in Asia Minor. The season is
late before the state of the ground allows the use of the
plough, as for several weeks after the snow disappears this
dead level remains too swampy for culture. The extensive
lake has apparently no river running from it; but the singu-
lar disappearance of a rapid and large stream of water, pro-
bably thirty feet wide and six deep, which crossed our track
over the plain about three miles from this place, may sug-
gest other modes of dispersing the water besides evapora-
tion. The river of which I speak rushes into a large cave in
the mountain with a tremendous roar, and is lost amidst
the masses of rocks deep in its dark recesses. The caver-
nous limestone of this district fully accounts for the
sudden appearance of several rivers in the plains of Phineka;
among these I may mention the one at Limyra, and probably
the Arycandus, which we lost sight of so abruptly near the
top of the mountain, as well as its great tributary near the
ancient city.
A few hundred feet above the plain of Almalee, to the
eastward, is another, many miles in extent and covered with
corn; each of these has its villages on the rise of the sur-
rounding mountains. Upon my remarking the very few
minarets of mosques seen on entering this town, I heard
that most of the inhabitants were Armenians and Greeks.
The houses of the town are good, but entirely built of mud
382
LYCIA.
and timber; consequently even the garden walls, chimneys,
and gateways have a wide roof of thin warped boards, giving
an unsightly appearance to the whole town. The principal
mosque is the handsomest I have seen out of Constantinople.
The ornaments of the minaret, cut in stone, are a beautiful
specimen of the best arabesque. The minarets of some of
the other mosques are entirely formed of wood. Water, the
indispensable element to the Turk, runs through each street,
and several mills are turned by the streams. Around the
town, and up the ravines in the steep mountains at the back,
are excellent gardens, well cultivated with the vine and other
fruit-trees, but the almond alone is yet in bloom. The sur-
rounding mountains have not even a bush upon them, and
the fire-wood for this town is brought from the forests of
cedars which we had passed on the mountains. For a few
pence a load of excellent cedar was placed at our door, show-
ing in its fracture the rich colour of the wood of our pencils;
and as we walked upon the house-top in the evening, the
smoke from the various chimneys quite scented the air with
the perfume of cedar-wood. The evening view from the roof
of our khan was very picturesque; the cry of the Iman from
the mosques, the bells of the camels, and rattling bills of the
cranes upon the surrounding roofs, the varied costumes of
the people in the streets, with jewels and coins on the heads
of the females, into whose harems* our exalted situation com-
manded a view, added a peculiar interest and beauty to the
scene.
A variety of trades are here carried on by this active
people. Tanning is among the chief, but this is unaccom-
panied by the disagreeable odours of an English tan-yard:
the tan is here of the Velanea, and gives the well-known
scent to Turkey leather: the scent of the Russian leather is
still more agreeable. I observe camels loaded with roots
*The harem is the portion of the house of the Turk set apart for the
use of his family.
ALMALEE.
383
resembling very fine horse-radish*: this is found plentifully
here, and used in making a sweetmeat, but it is principally
obtained as a substitute for soap, and used in the raw state.
Several woods and roots used in dyeing are also articles of
merchandize in this town, and there is a considerable trade
in the skins of hares.
I was somewhat surprised to learn from my servant that
the people are so well informed as to the nature of the dis-
appearance of the waters into the earth, which I have already
noticed; such phenomena being here, and even in parts of
our own country, accompanied by traditionary superstitions.
A person in our khan told my servant the following tale.
Seven years ago there was very little snow during the winter,
and the following summer was unusually dry; the conse-
quence was the perfect exhaustion of the supplies of this
stream, and the cave ceased for above a month to receive
any waters.
The Pasha by rewards induced five men to
explore the cave with torches; the relator of this account
said that he was among the number, and that they walked
for three hours along a level sandy plain within the moun-
tain. The following year the season brought as great a
deluge as the former did a drought; the whole plain of Al-
malee was a flood, like the sea, and many of the mud houses
were washed away. The consequences of the cessation and
again the rush of turbid water were successively felt in the
rivers which rise in the plains of Phineka around Limyra.
The lake here is permanent, and seldom less than at present;
but the annual floods on the melting of the snows render a
great portion of the plain a morass until about the end of
April.
I have observed that here, at Kastelorizo, and other places
where the Greek population is considerable, the Governor of
the town always sends a guard or policeman to wait on the
* The Silene.
384
LYCIA.
outside of the door of our room. I have frequently declined
this honour as unnecessary, but the reply has always inti-
mated that we and our property are, while in the town, under
the protection of the Governor, and that he cannot answer for
the honesty of all the people. This has never occurred in the
towns where the number of the Greeks was small.
;
May 9th.-On leaving Almalee this morning our road lay
towards the north-west, rising considerably as we wound
round the girth of the mountain, at the foot of which the
town is built. From the elevation we attained, the exten-
sive valleys, all green with the springing corn, were traced
to an immense distance. A branch of the great plain wound
beneath our hill, and at the end of this we descended through
the village of Esky-Hissá, which was said to be full of ruins
its name implies an ancient city. Two or three tombs in
the rock, without inscriptions, and a rude Cyclopean wall,
are all the works of art that remain on its site, well formed
by nature for a fine city: this may probably have been the
ancient Podalia. At the pointed end of this plain a river
enters it from the mountains, which we found was formed
by the united waters of two considerable streams from the
north-east and north-west, which joined a few yards above.
Up the ravine of the latter, from the north-west, we followed
a good track by the side of the rapid and picturesquely-broken
torrent: the high rocks rose abruptly on either side, and the
space for the road and river was so narrow that the asses loaded
with wood had to wait in recesses of the rocks while we
passed. At the distance of a few miles up this ravine, on
the face of the rock, which stood out and caused the waters
to change their course, was cut in a somewhat rude style this
monument: if it was funereal the tomb had not been opened,
nor did there appear to be any chamber in the rock. We
found no tombs, nor any traces of an ancient site in the
neighbourhood, but all was wild and rocky. From the natu-
ral portal formed by the rocks, I should have fancied this a
PODALIA.
385
1.

111
ΙΩΡΑΟΛΟΓΕΙΝΕΣ

*
ΩΥΘΑΣΕΜΙΛΥΑΣ
OAUTONANTOY
ΙΝΓΕΣ ΧΥΘΩΣ ΚΑΙ
ΚΟΓΟΝΙΛΣΕΛ
th
Ju

barrier between two districts, and the inscription may re-
cord it*.
We continued our ascent through the same ravine, and, at
the distance of nearly twenty miles from Almalee, reached the
abrupt source of the river, gushing out of the mountain-side
in a picturesque cascade, and falling into the bed of the rip-
pling stream, along which our course still continued towards
the snow mountains to the north-west. This stream is one
of the sources of the river, which disappears in the plains of
Almalee. Ascending through a winterly climate, with snow
by the side of our path, and only the crocus and anemones
in bloom, we soon stood upon the summit of this barren part
of the range, at a height exceeding five thousand feet. From
hence we beheld a new series of cultivated plains to the west,
being in fact table-lands, nearly upon a level with the tops
Milyas was the ancient name of the whole of this elevated district
of Lycia.
S
386
LYCIA,
of the mountains which form the eastern boundary of the
valley of the Xanthus. Still far above us, to the south-west,
stood Massicytus, a stupendous snow-mountain, by far the
highest in Lycia. To the north-west was the lofty range
giving source to the river Xanthus, and forming a high
snow-capped wall of partition to the elevated country of
Phrygia, whose table-lands lie but a little below the summit
of the range. Descending to the plain, probably a thousand
feet, we pitched our tent, after a ride of seven hours and a
half. Upon boiling the thermometer, I found that we were
more than four thousand feet above the sea, and, cutting
down some dead trees, we provided against the coming cold
of the evening by lighting three large fires around our en-
campment. The effect of both the light and heat of the sun
is extremely powerful, and the night-air in this climate keen
and frosty. The moon and stars in this atmosphere, lighting
the snowy mountain-tops, had an effect singularly calm and
sublime, and their cold white light contrasted strongly with
that of the blazing branches of the arbor vitæ upon the piles.
of burning embers, around which, in their richly-coloured
costumes, lay our sleeping attendants. This tree grows on
these mountains to a large size, its height being generally
above forty feet, and the diameter of its stem above three:
it is probably a cypress, but of a species differing from any
I have before seen. The trees here must be many centuries
old.
All the names of the villages in these high districts termi-
nate in -yeeilassy, which means a cool place, a summer place ;
and most of them have their corresponding village in the
valleys. This plain, called Satala-yeeilassy, is occupied by
a people who in the winter months live at Satala-cooe, our
next stage on the way to Macry. Another adjoining plain
is called Carachewfathers-yeeilassy, in which place we had
been told that extensive ruins existed, but on approaching
it we could hear nothing of them; nor were any ruins known
YEEILASSIES.
387
to exist in this elevated valley or plain, which is probably
ten or twelve miles in length. Several fragments of sarco-
phagi and pedestals were scattered over the plain, from one
of which I copied an inscription, but I could discover no site
of any ancient city.
We descended a few hundred feet towards the west, to
another plain of equal extent, watered by a stream, which,
by the addition of the waters from the plain above, and also
of others on the north, had assumed the character of a con-
siderable river.
For six hours we travelled over this highly-cultivated but
late-seasoned district, when we turned towards the south-
west, and passed over a slight barrier of wooded hills. At
the point where we quitted the plains we observed consi-
derable remains of old materials lying about the rocks, and
also several ornamented sarcophagi in the burial-grounds of
the Yourooks, but could observe no satisfactory site for a
city, nor any foundations of walls.
In three hours we halted in a forest upon a high ridge,
but some way down the gradual descent which led us again
into the valley of the Xanthus. The river had kept a more
northerly course, and was hurried down a precipitous ravine
to the gorge at the back of Hoorahn, which, I have before
said, supplied almost the whole of the waters to the Xanthus.
I had difficulty in imagining how so great a volume of water
could find its way through an apparently unbroken snow-
capped range of mountains; but the occurrence of the high
plains almost upon the level of their summits explains all
the phenomena of this singular country. Having sought in
vain around the whole range of Mount Massicytus for the
ruins of the city of that name, which was known to lie at its
foot, I now feel sure that the ruins at Hoorahn are those of
the ancient city. I have two coins found in the neighbour-
hood belonging to Massicytus; and their form, emblems,
and reverses are the same as those of the other cities in the
s 2
388
LYCIA.
valley of the Xanthus, each being distinguished only by the
initials of their respective towns. This, together with the
fragment of an inscription found there, and the situation
and relative importance of the ruins, makes me feel confi-
dent that this was the ancient Massicytus*.
'May 10th.-No place is without its interest: before
pitching our tent, we found two natural springs gushing
from the rocks close by, and trees already burning+ afforded
us an ample supply of fire. Some old walls, the ruins of a
Turkish khan, attracted our attention, being composed of
portions of old sarcophagi, from which I copied the frag-
ment of an inscription, but I fear it will not afford infor-
mation as to the former inhabitants of this most beautiful
spot; no appearance of a town could be traced amidst the
thicket upon the precipitous cliff before us.
The interest of our halt was greatly increased by our ob-
serving an almost uninterrupted train of cattle and people
moving from the valleys to the cool places for the summer
season-the yeeilassies. I was much struck by the simpli-
city and patriarchal appearance of the several families, which
brought forcibly to mind the descriptions of pastoral life in
Bible history. What a picture would Landseer make of
such a pilgrimage! The snowy tops of the mountains were
seen through the lofty and dark green fir-trees, terminating
in abrupt cliffs many thousand feet of perpendicular height.
From clefts in these gushed out cascades falling in torrents,
the sound of which, from their great distance, was heard
only in the stillness of the evening, and the waters were
carried away by the wind in spray over the green woods, be-
fore they could reach their deep bed in the rocky ravines
beneath. In a zigzag course up the wood lay the track
leading to the cool places.
*This opinion was incorrect, as noticed page 310, Hoorahn being the
site of the ancient Araxa. Massicytus has yet to be discovered.
+ See above, p. 191, mode of felling trees.
MIGRATION OF THE TRIBES.
389
In advance of the pastoral groups were the straggling
goats, browsing on the fresh blossoms of the wild almond
as they passed. In more steady courses followed the small
black cattle, with their calves, and among them several asses,
carrying in saddle-bags those calves that were too young to
follow their watchful mothers. Then came the flocks of
sheep and the camels each with their young; two or three
fine-grown camels bearing piled loads of ploughs, tent-poles,
kettles, pans, presses, and all the utensils for the dairy; and
amidst this rustic load was always seen the rich Turkey
carpet and damask cushions, the pride even of the tented
Turk. Behind these portions of the train I must place,
with more finish, the family-the foreground of my picture.
An old man, and generally his wife, head the clan, which
consists of several generations; many of them must have seen
near five-score summers on the mountains: the old man,
grasping a long stick, leads his children with a firm step.
His son, the master of the flocks, follows with his wife; she
is often seated on a horse, with a child in her arms, and
other horses are led all clothed with the gay trappings of
a Turkish steed. Asses are allotted to the younger chil-
dren, who are placed amidst the domestic stores, and never
without a pet cat in their arms; long tresses of hair hang
down their necks, and are kept close to the head by a circlet
of coins. By their head walks the eldest son, with all the
air and alacrity of a young sportsman; over his shoulder
hangs a long-barrelled gun, in his hand is the cage of a
decoy partridge, and a classic-looking hound follows at his
heels: a number of shepherd boys mingle with the flocks and
bring up the rear. The gay costume, the varied noises of
the cattle, and the high glee attending the party on this
annual expedition, must be supplied by the imagination.
I should think that twenty families passed in succession
during our balt, few of them having less than one hundred
head of stock, and many had more. In some families, at-
390
LYCIA.
tendants, servants, or farming-labourers were among the
cattle, generally with their aprons tied around them, in which
they carried two or three young kids; they had often over
their shoulders a small calf, with all its legs held together
on the breast, exactly as seen in the offerings on the bas-
reliefs at Xanthus and elsewhere.
The longevity of the people in this pastoral country is very
remarkable. I am sure that we have seen at least twenty
peasants within the last two days above a hundred years
of age, and apparently still enjoying health and activity of
body; in some instances the mind appeared wandering.
An old-looking hag, screaming violently, seized my servant.
Mania, and asked if he was come to take away her other child
for a soldier, for if he were gone she should have none left
to take care of her. The temperate habits of the Turks, as
well as some of their customs, may in part account for the
prolongation of life in this country. One custom I may
mention as tending to diminish the cares of age, and to
show the excellence of these simple people. When sons
grow up and marry, the father gives over to them his flocks
and property, and trusts to the known and natural affection
of his children to take care of him in his declining years:
to a son his parents are always his first charge.
Descending the mountain, we traversed the ridge of one
of those long promontories which cut the valley of the Xan-
thus into bays, and leave scarcely a bed for the winding
river. Our descent brought us immediately upon the bridge
which we had crossed on our way to visit Tlos. Baiting our
horses for two hours at noon, we continued a westerly di-
rection for three hours over the undulating and wooded
hills leading to the head of the valley of the Glaucus. On
these hills a small stream takes its rise, and runs toward
the centre of the plain, but is so nearly lost in the swampy
lands that it can scarcely be recognized as a river—the an-
cient Glaucus. It took us nearly three hours to traverse
VALLEY OF THE GLAUCUS.
391
the plain on our return to Macry, where my first inquiry
was respecting the arrival of the Beacon ship, which, in ac-
cordance with instructions sent from the Admiralty, I had
arranged to meet here on this day, the 12th of May, to en-
deavour to transport the marbles from Xanthus to England
for the British Museum. I was disappointed; the vessel
had not been heard of on the coast, and I therefore at once
took a boat for Rhodes, to gain what information I could
upon the subject from our Vice-consul stationed there.
392
CHAPTER XXIII.
RHODES.-CITY OF RHODES.-SAILORS.-LAVISSE.-CARMYLESSUS.-RE-
TURN TO THE YEEILASSIES.-REVIEW OF LYCIA.
May 13th.-Thirty hours' endurance of the sea, mostly in a
scorching sun, brought us at two o'clock in the morning to
the quay
within the stately harbour of Rhodes. The beautiful
tower, which is the striking feature of the city, commands
the entrance. The password being called, we landed, and
by the light of a full moon spread our carpet on the quay,
and enjoyed an English breakfast of tea and toast, long be-
fore the inhabitants of the town opened their gates.
I was surprised to find that the city retains so much of
the buildings and fortifications of the Knights of Rhodes.
Probably the only change in the view of the town from the
harbour, during the last eight centuries, is the elegant mi-
narets of the Turkish mosques here and there peering above
the walls. Armorial bearings and architectural ornaments,
of what we call the Tudor age, are seen on the fronts of
almost every house; and to those who take an interest in
the history of the middle ages, the castle where the last resist-
ance and surrender was made, and the tower under which
sixteen thousand Turks fell before it yielded to their sway,
illustrate perfectly the scenes and events recorded. Many
dates are on the walls, blended with gothic ornaments gene-
rally of about the tenth century. The rocks alone point
RHODES.
393
out the site of the famed Colossus at the entrance of the
smaller harbour. I found one or two pedestals worked up
in modern buildings, which show marks of Greek art in
their heads and festoons, and in the well-cut inscriptions, but
no other trace of the ancient Greeks was discoverable.
The present town within the walls is thickly inhabited,
but the mass of the Frank population reside in its environs,
each having his house within a high-walled garden. The
Greek inhabitants far outnumber all the rest.
There are
also many Jews, who are each night locked within their own
quarters of the town. Considerable excitement prevails at
present against this people, owing to a story of a Greek
boy having been killed as a sacrifice to satisfy some of their
superstitions. The case is now pending, but no Jew passes
without the hoot or howl of the Greeks; the justice of the
Porte was shown on the first hearing of this affair, by its
ordering three of each party, Jew and Greek, to repair to
Constantinople and give all the information they could, pro-
mising at the same time that the most impartial and strict
inquiry should be made into the case.
The Turks have a strong garrison here, and perhaps it
may be more required than in other parts I have visited.
Rhodes has seen many changes, and the great bulk of its
inhabitants being aliens it may not improbably experience
many more. The island has forty villages, and produces
much fruit of all kinds: the peasantry are Greek, and if
allowed the privileges proffered by the new Firman, they
may cultivate the soil most profitably: the produce has
hitherto been seized so capriciously, that the ground was
only tilled for a sufficiency to supply the inhabitants. A
steam-packet now touches at this island more than once in
the month, on its way from Smyrna to Beyrout. Our hos-
pitable but unpaid Vice-consul, Mr. Wilkinson, rendered me
every information in his power, but could give no tidings
of the Beacon ship. At noon, on the day of our arrival (the
s 3
394
LYCIA.
13th of May), we were again in our boat to return, and in
four hours were nearly within the bay of Macry. The breeze,
which drove us on so quickly, was too fresh, and with a crash
the foremast snapped off just above the deck. With one sail
only we made but little way, and the land-breeze sprang up
before we could reach our point. For nearly twenty hours
we made scarcely any way, suffering much from the broiling
sun, and paddling along with the feeble oars of the idle
Greek sailors. At two o'clock on the 14th of May we were
again on terra firma, and experiencing the insufferably op-
pressive and stagnant air of the bay of Macry.
A striking contrast in character between the Greek and
Turk is seen in the sailors. The Greek will put out to sea
even in a brisk breeze, and work his boat with activity; but
should the gale increase to a storm, he will quit the helm
and leave the vessel adrift, to repeat his prayers and cries of
despair. The Turk, on the contrary, shows his fear in the
first instance: he will never put to sea unless under the
most favourable circumstances; but should an unforeseen
storm arise, he is as unmoved as in the calm, apparently
ready to meet his fate at his post, displaying a moral courage
unknown to the Greek.
May 15th.-We have today ridden for two hours south-
ward, to the village called by the Greeks Lavisse, and by
the Turks Tuslee, a name which signifies 'stone village.'
The first hour's ride was along a zigzag path up the
steep mountain-side at the back of Telmessus, and then
down a considerable descent into a highly-cultivated plain:
the latter is divided into gardens, most of which have sum-
merhouses or shelter from the sun, and each with walled
fences. The town of Lavisse consists of about three or four
hundred houses, well built, and entirely occupied by Greeks:
from its commanding situation and the remains of a few
tombs, I judge that it may probably be the site of a small
ancient town, perhaps Cissida. Rising from this plain in all
CARMYLESSUS.
395
directions, on the bare rocks, are seen scattered huts, mostly
belonging to the Turks; one of these groups is formed by the
establishment of the Aga and a small mosque. Macry is
the port or scala of this place, and it is here that the post
is conducted, and all official business. Skirting the plain we
passed through Lavisse, and over a hill to the sea-coast, in
order to examine the ruins of an ancient city, supposed to be
Carmylessus, situated principally upon an island and partly
along the coast. After an hour's walk however in the burn-
ing sun, we were disappointed at finding that the only boat
which the coast supplies had just put to sea for Kastelorizo.
Delighted with the wild grandeur of the rugged scenery, we
walked back to Lavisse, and for two hours sat under the
welcome shade of its luxuriant trees, surrounded by a num-
ber of Greeks, all apparently wealthy, and with talent to in-
crease their riches. I purchased several coins of the country,
and have no doubt that these people possess many which
would be valued for their rarity in Europe. The intrinsic
value of the metal seemed the price expected for the silver
coins. I hope that some which I have collected in Lycia
may prove useful in illustrating the lost history of the
country.
May 16th.—We have once more escaped from the suffocat-
ing air of Macry, and are now at the bridge of the Xanthus.
The season is getting too hot to travel for pleasure; we are
therefore, like the inhabitants of the deserted village of Sa-
talacooe on the opposite side of the river, upon our way to
the Yeeilassy. Our route is the same as that by which we de-
scended a few days ago, and we intend afterwards to proceed
as far as we can toward Smyrna by the high lands, passing
over the country between Lycia and Mount Cadmus; at
all events it will be cool travelling, and the route is novel
to Europeans. Enjoying the independence of a tent and
horses, our wants are limited to fire-wood, water, and grass
for the horses; the latter, I fear, will be the most difficult to
396
LYCIA.
procure in the yet wintry region of the high lands. I have
long wished for this excursion, but could gain no information
as to its practicability : having however, when on the Yeeilas-
sies, noticed the direction of the several ranges of mountains,
I resolved to explore the country further, and expect to be
able to lay down a map for future travellers.
May 18th.—We travelled yesterday nearly thirty miles,
for most of the way ascending from the valley of the Xan-
thus; today we have proceeded thirty-four miles toward the
N.N.E., over a district elevated more than four thousand
feet above the sea, and containing a large population, indus-
triously employed in cultivating an excellent corn country:
immense plains of young wheat look most promising. There
are very few villages, the peasants living during their short
season here in tents. This district loses much of the beauty
we have so long seen, from having but few trees, and from the
want of variety in the kinds. The arbor vitæ, or spreading
cypress, alone grows on the hills; and here and there on the
plain a wild pear-tree, at this season scarcely showing its
leaf, only reminds us of the absence of more beautiful trees.
Our tent is pitched on the north of the range of high
mountains which separates Lycia from Caria and Phrygia,
and is decribed by Pliny as a part of the Taurus, ending in
the west at Dædala. Last night we pitched our tent on the
north side of the plain of Satala-yeeilassy, the village lying
to the eastward. In crossing the plain, and on the banks
of the great tributary stream to the Xanthus which I men-
tioned before, we observed several columns and ornamented
stones, of the Corinthian order, and evidently on their ori-
ginal site. These have probably belonged to a temple, but
not of a very early Greek date. A little further on was
another pile of squared stones-some carved into cornices
and dentiled; and in the Turkish burial-grounds, which
were scattered over the valley, many remains of sculptured
white marble showed that the ruins of some ancient city
TAURUS MOUNTAINS.
397
/
were not far distant. An imperfect inscription, ill-cut upon
a column, indicated by the form of the characters a late date,
probably Christian.
Several pedestals, with figures in bas-relief, also showed
a state of art more of the Byzantine than of an early Greek
age-how different to the simplicity and beauty of the works
we have generally found in Lycia!
I am inclined to draw a line of separation between the
ancient Lycians and the Greeks who succeeded them, by the
peculiarity shown in their architecture, sculpture, and lan-
guage: these indications of the Lycians we have entirely
lost. The nature of the country also shows a strong line of
demarcation. I have found no trace of the Lycians on the
high plains, and none more northerly than Arycanda on the
eastern side of the promontory formed by Lycia; nor have
I discovered any on the east of the valley of the Xanthus,
or to the north of Mount Massicytus, the whole country
containing traces of them being confined to the south-west
of the range of Massicytus, and to the south of the northern
chain from Dædala. I find no rock-tombs or gothic-formed
sarcophagi, no Cyclopean walls or Lycian characters, in the
cities on the eastern coast, or east of Limyra and Arycanda ;
an ill-designed tablet which I observed upon a rock on
leaving Almalee was unworthy of the Lycians, and, from its
inscription, may be attributed to the Mylians, whose coun-
try extended over that region. I also passed, between these
plains and the district in which we are now travelling, a na-
tural barrier of mountains, from which we had an extensive
view over the whole of the west of Lycia: this probably
divided the country of the Mylians from that of the Ciby-
rates, who were to the north of Mount Massieytus-a con-
jecture which is in part borne out by Strabo, who says that
Tlos was situated on the passage toward the country of the
Cibyrates.
On leaving Lycia, I must note down a few reflections
398
LYCIA.
which arise from considering the many remains we have
found in this highly interesting province. History assists
us little in our investigation of the remains of the middle
ages, in connection with the inhabitants of Lycia. Of its
earliest people we have more correct information from the
poems of Homer and the works of Herodotus; each author
almost claims this district as his native country, and both
seem to have been well acquainted with the poetic legends
of its first inhabitants. They tell of Europa's visit, and of
her sons possessing the country; and some of the most
beautiful parts of the Iliad recount the history of the Lycian
heroes, Sarpedon and Glaucus. The exploits of Bellerophon,
and the tale of the children of king Pandarus, are related at
length; whilst the Chimera and the natural peculiarities and
beauty and fertility of the country are frequently extolled.
I am inclined to consider almost all the works I have
termed Lycian as belonging to this age and that imme-
diately subsequent; many of the peculiar sarcophagi and
obelisk-monuments, and much of the rock-architecture, the
sculptures, and the language, as also the coins, belong to this
period. None of these represent any subject which can be
called Byzantine, Roman, or even connected with the known
history of Greece; the subjects are mythological, historical,
or domestic scenes; the history representing the earliest le-
gends and the renowned feats of the time of the Trojan war.
The nearest parallel to the domestic scenes appears to be in
the Etruscan paintings. The coins to which I refer have
upon them Bellerophon, Pegasus, the Sphinx, Pan, and the
wild beasts of the country; and on their reverse a triquetra,
an unexplained but very ancient symbol, intermixed with
the early language of the country.
Herodotus mentions the destruction of the Lycians about
the year 550 B.C.* Probably about that period, and after-
* Croesus, whose reign commenced 562 B.C., succeeded in conquering the
whole of the province of Asia Minor, excepting Lycia and Cilicia, which
TAURUS MOUNTAINS.
399
wards, the Græco-Lycian coins appeared, with the head and
emblems of Apollo, names of the country, and the initials
of the several cities to which they belonged, in Greek charac-
ters; these are known for almost all the cities from Massi-
cytus to Olympus. Patara, the seat of the oracle of Apollo,
Sidyma, and many other cities, appear to have arisen at this
period, and I should attribute also to this age many of the
fragments of sculpture found at Xanthus. History tells
us that the Lycians were a brave and warlike people, famed
for the use of the javelin and their skill in archery: Xeno-
phon says that they were sought to join the army of Cyrus
in his march to the East; and they afforded great assistance
in the expedition of Xerxes.
After this period the country became a colony of Greece,
and was soon subjected to Rome; its history is thenceforth
blended with that of the rest of Asia Minor, which was
more or less overrun by a Byzantine and Christian people.
The very little that has hitherto been known, or rather sur-
mised, of the Lycian language, appears to bear out this idea
of the early history of the inhabitants of Lycia. The cha-
racters are not of Greek, but probably of Phoenician origin,
and the root of the language, judging from many of the
never became subject to him. In the reign of his successor, Cyrus, we
find the following account of their extinction as a nation: "When Har-
pagus led his army toward Xanthus, the Lycians boldly advanced to
meet him, and, though inferior in number, behaved with the greatest
bravery. Being defeated, and pursued into their city, they collected their
wives, children, and valuable effects into the citadel, and then consumed
the whole in one immense fire. They afterwards, uniting themselves
under the most solemn curses, made a private sally upon the enemy,
and were every man put to death. Of those who now inhabit Lycia,
calling themselves Xanthians, the whole are foreigners, eighty families
excepted; these survived the calamity of their country, being at that
time absent on some foreign expedition. Thus Xanthus fell into the
hands of Harpagus; as also did Caunus, whose people imitated, almost
in every respect, the example of the Lycians."-Herodotus, Book I. c. 176.
400
LYCIA.
names of the cities, may have been derived also from the
same nation, or from the Hebrew, which appears a natural
geographical progression. In this point of view, Lycia is
to me of the highest interest, more particularly from the
extremely early works of a people whom, for the sake of
distinction, I should call the Ancient Lycians, preceding a
people who appeared to embrace the language and the my-
thology of the Greeks, and became Græco-Lycians.
The coins found in this district, which are probably of
the cities in the valley of the Xanthus, but certainly Lycian,
bear marks of high antiquity, both in their manufacture and
devices. Of the twenty-two reverses, I observe that one
represents Pan, one of the oldest of the gods, and supposed
to be first introduced from Egypt: one has upon it a sphinx;
six have figures of lions and bulls, which may refer to Eu-
ropa; four represent Pegasus; one, a horse (which may re-
late to the exploits of Bellerophon), and one a naked man:
the remaining eight have each the skin of a lion's head.
Other coins which I have found in the country, representing
wild boars, may probably be also of this date. In these coins
we find no trace of Apollo, Diana, Jupiter, Hercules, or
Ceres, so universally honoured in this country at a later
period, about the fifth century B. C., nor any trace of a head
indicating the coins of the Roman ages. This I think is
strong evidence of the antiquity of the early inhabitants,
derived from their coins; the bas-reliefs afford a similar
evidence.
401
CHAPTER XXIV.
GULE-HISSA OVASSY.-A LARGE LAKE. ANCIENT RIVER CALBIS.-EX-
TENSIVE PLAINS.-CARREEUKE.-ITS BAZAAR.-PRICE OF CATTLE.—
CUSTOMS OF THE PEOPLE.-DENIZLEE.—ITS INHABITANTS.-CHANGE
OF LAW.LAODICEIA. HIERAPOLIS.-RETURN TO SMYRNA.
May 19th.-After winding through a series of mountain-
tops, slightly raised above the plain we had traversed, we
suddenly arrived at an extensive and cultivated country,
bounded by Mount Cadmus or Babadah on the north. This
large and highly productive district is called Gule-hissá
Ovassy, or 'Rose-castle Valley,' which is left entirely blank
on all our maps. I already observe much cultivation, seve-
ral rivers, and many villages dotted over the wide extent of
country before us.
Hoomarhoosharry.-We have moved twenty-five miles
northward, and have made but little apparent progress.
over this extensive valley, which all bears the same name.
Immediately over the brow of a little hill, on leaving our
tent, we were surprised at finding a village, and before it a
highly picturesque and extensive lake, into which ran out a
promontory, terminated by a craggy rock, upon which ap-
peared to be some ruins of a castle; this may have given
the name to the whole district; the lake is called Gule-hissá
Gouluh. A few huts at the foot of the castle-rock are called
Olooboonar-cooe, meaning 'Dead-water Village.' Skirting
402
PHRYGIA.
the lake, close under the cliff of the mountains, we found
large covered sheds, in which is held the great market or
bazaar; this spot was called Bazaar-cooe. In the burial-
grounds around were many remains of columns, pedestals,
and sculptured white marble, but all in a late and not pure
style.

In about an hour we crossed a considerable river, running
toward the north from the range of mountains to the south-
east, and continued our way over a plain of rich soil, entirely
cultivated with corn, which was just springing out of the
ground. About fifteen miles on our way the soil became
lighter, and was filled with stones of igneous rocks. For
the next ten miles we entered quite a different region; bar-
ren hills, which we crossed, protruded into this part of the
valley, while the river wound around their bases. The whole
of these were quite distinct from the high mountains of
limestone rising above them, and had all been deposited at
their feet amidst running waters; the same power is now
again washing them away, although they consist of rolled
fragments of volcanic stones, cemented strongly together
with a deposit of lime. This pudding-stone rock stands out
in most grotesque forms, and often in thin shelves from the
face of the rocks, upon which our road ran. Beyond these
rocks were a series of barren hills, the arid soil not even
producing a tree. A few bushes of the little oak-shrub are
GULE-HISSA OVASSY.
403
all that find root on this sandy district; but on our left be-
yond the river, whose course we still followed toward the
north, the soil was apparently good, and green with corn-
fields.
A considerable and permanent stream crossed our road
on its
way to the river in the plain. This great river, which
rises in the south-east, is, I find, the ancient Calbis, the
modern Dollomon-chi, which we had crossed with such diffi-
culty above a hundred miles below, and within ten miles of
its mouth.
This village of Hoomarhoosharry stands upon the plain,
or rather on a bay out of the great plain, and has the pecu-
liarities of such agricultural places. The mountainous cha-
racter of the houses has changed, and mud walls and ditches
have supplanted the fences of trees and thorns. Flat-topped
mud houses, and a number of poles for drawing water from
the deep wells, were the features of this little village, in
which all our wants were soon supplied with fowls, eggs, and
milk. I was amused at seeing here, as I had formerly done
in the northern parts of Anatolia, agricultural implements
of the most ancient forms retained in use- -"the threshing
instrument having teeth," mentioned by Isaiah*, and the
plough and carts described by the earliest classic writers.
Rising from the plain, at the foot of the surrounding hills,
was the village of Tourtakar, and about half-way up the
craggy mountain were some ruins of an ancient city. We
were told that several marble sarcophagi and columns, used
now at the mouth of the wells, had been brought from the
"old castles," but that all the buildings had fallen down.
We could see the ruins of a city, with extensive walls, high
up in the mountain, but the intense heat of the weather and
the fatigue of travelling made us satisfied with this informa-
tion, and we arranged to proceed on our route at two o'clock
in the morning.
* See page 51.
404
PHRYGIA.
May 20th.—Although we have travelled all day, we have
only reached this place, a distance of thirty-five miles, and
have just light left to enable us to review the whole line of
our route. The tent is pitched at the northern end of this
wonderful valley, or rather elevated plain; for I find we are
still higher than the Yeeilassy of Satala-cooe: the thermo-
meter indicates an altitude of above five thousand feet.
Looking toward the south, the plain is bounded by the range
of snow mountains which forms the barrier of Lycia, running
from Dædala to the Taurus range in Pamphylia. On the
right is another fine snow-capped range, from Cadmus at
our back, and extending as far as Moolah in the south-west*.
On the left are the high craggy cliffs among which the Calbis
takes its rise, and behind which lies Pamphylia. The high
lands within these mountain-chains form a part of Phrygia.
Soon after leaving Hoomarhoosharry, which we did by
moonlight this morning, we passed the village of Yooma-
hoodas, situated at the foot of some stupendous cliffs, under
which our road lay for two or three hours. The eagles were
soaring around their nests, and the singular cackling of the
red-ducks, which also built in the loftiest peaks of the rocks,
often attracted our attention to these giddy heights; the
call of the partridge was frequent in the little tufts around
us. Long before daylight the plain on our left was alive
with the yokes of oxen dragging the plough, and a kind of
rake, which seems to be used here instead of the bunch of
thorns more general in the country; this probably arises.
from the scarcity of trees, for the whole plain produces no-
* In my map, the coast of which is made from the chart just received
by the Admiralty, a great change will be observed near the ancient
Cnidus. By the ancient survey the gulf is found to extend above twenty
miles further eastward than hitherto known, and the isthmus was equally
erroneous in its form. In consequence of this discovery Moolah is
found to be near to the sea, and I should suggest that it is the site of
the ancient Pedassis.
GULE-HISSA OVASSY.
405
thing but the wild pear, which is dotted over the land, afford-
ing little shade, but forming a good post for the cattle.
In every direction along this extensive flat we saw lines
of people travelling in the cool of the morning, mostly upon
asses, toward one point, which was also our destination,—
the village of Carreeuke. At this place is held a great
bazaar: thousands of gaily dressed people were assembled
under and around two immense covered sheds; all seemed
busied with their sales and purchases. The gay-coloured
shoe-mart and the beautiful carpets and rugs were the most
striking features. The women in this valley, although Turks,
do not veil themselves; a number were assembled under
some trees, away from the bustle of the fair, and in the only
shade that we saw; under this we proposed to bait and have
our breakfast. I feared that a command from our Cavass
was the cause of the women quitting the shade, for our con-
venience; but on inquiry I found that a woman who lived
in an adjoining hut or shed claimed this shade for her cus-
tomers, for whom she made coffee, and took charge of their
horses. We therefore purchased from her some fire-wood
and eggs, and with a present amply repaid her for the use of
the scanty shade of a few wild pear-trees.
The authority of the Cavass kept the wondering people at
a distance, otherwise we should have been surrounded by
the hundreds who passed us on their way from the market.
We spoke with some few of these, asking ordinary questions
connected with their vocations, and I was surprised to find
that the beautiful little cattle used for ploughing were sold
at so low a price: four-year-old oxen, fat enough to kill,
were purchased for eighty, ninety, or a hundred piastres;
the latter price being less than a pound of our money.
cow and calf were sold for one hundred and fifty piastres,
and excellent horses for two hundred and fifty. The Turks
often dispose of their things by auction, and this sale has a
peculiarity unknown to us: the lot is put up, and compe-
406
PHRYGIA.
tition ensues, the last bidder being the purchaser: but he
gives only the price offered by the preceding bidder, his fur-
ther advance merely indicating his anxiety to possess the
lot. The tenure on which the land is held by the cultivator
is by no means oppressive; one-seventh of the produce is
claimed by the governor of the district, as satisfaction for
the rent, tax, and all charges whatsoever.
Our European costume was not here the novelty I ex-
pected; in the fair were two or three Greeks similarly
attired; they were dealers in leeches, and the singularity of
their trade deserves notice. The introduction of strangers,
and especially of intelligent Greeks, may hereafter add to
our knowledge of these hitherto unvisited parts. Three or
four years ago the trade in leeches was scarcely known,
except for the use of the village; this inhabitant of the
swamp has now become an important contributor to the
revenue of the Sultan. Two years ago I met an Italian col-
lecting and shipping them from Adalia, undisturbed by any
law: from that time the privilege of buying them from the
peasants has been farmed out by the Sultan, and several
companies of merchants in Constantinople purchase certain
districts for the year, and send agents round to buy up the
collections at such prices as he may agree upon with the
people. The agent here said that his employers had given
a sum equal to fifteen thousand pounds for this district,
which I found extended over almost the whole track we had
traversed. How strange that two such important trades as
that in leeches and gall-nuts should have their origin in such
minute productions of the animal world! Many vessels are
freighted to America and all parts of Europe with leeches.
only, and in almost every steamboat I have observed that a
great part of its cargo consisted of these animals, which are
the constant care of the merchants accompanying them, as
they frequently require ventilation in the hold of the vessel.
The trade is a great speculation, and the calculation is made.
ར་
GULE-HISSA OVASSY.
407
upon the loss of an immense proportion of the stock. The
capture, transport, and calculated mortality, bring to my
mind the treatment of the Negroes.
In my former Journal I attempted to describe the pecu-
liarities of a Turkish market; the animation and gaiety of
the scene can scarcely be over-drawn. The present one had
the additional effect of animals grazing for a mile around in
every direction-camels, horses, and asses. I should esti-
mate the number of the latter useful animals (for almost
every man had his ass) at not less than two thousand; the
camels generally bore merchandize for sale. At noon a crier
proclaimed the market to be ended, and all the people gra-
dually departed; some to very distant places, but most to
the various villages skirting this extensive plain.
For some distance round the village of Carreeuke, as well
as built into the walls of its mosques, were many sculptured
remains and fragments of inscriptions, but all appeared to
be of a late Greek date; some had patterns showing a fanci-
ful taste, but not of a simple or pure age.
The soil of the plain as we approached Carreeuke became
very light and arid, and the crops consequently less promis-
ing; not a stone was to be seen, the wide dusty track of the
road showed a white sandy soil, and the earth sounded hol-
low beneath the horses' feet: no rivers or streams are seen
near this end of the valley. The whole was explained by a
deep ditch cut across our path: the soil was precisely similar
to that of the greater part of the plains on the table-lands of
Phrygia forming the centre of Asia Minor-fragments of
pumice and other volcanic dust, united by the deposits of
lime, making a spongy porous earth totally unfit for vegeta-
tion: time and exposure to the air had coated the surface
with more mixed soil, and upon this a scanty crop is pro-
duced. On approaching the hills the soil is far better,
and during a short season in the year (for the snows have
only disappeared within the last three weeks) this district
408
PHRYGIA.
must contribute an important part to the produce of the
country.
Leaving Carreeuke, and proceeding toward the north, we
passed on our right, successively, Yarseer, Gewmoos-cooe,
Ghiassar, and Seechalik; and on our left, the large village
of Koosil Hissar, nearly at the north end of the valley.
May 22nd, Denizlee.-We have proceeded about twenty-
five miles north of our encampment last night, on leaving
which spot we ascended a ridge of hills for half an hour. A
perfectly new and splendid view then burst upon us, and
showed me at once that I had completed a circuit in my
travels, as I now recognized before me the peculiar features
of the hills of Hierapolis and the valleys of the Lycus and
Mæander. On the left, and close to us, rose Mount Cad-
mus, with its snows; on the right, a mountain almost as
high, and of the same range, called by the Turks Honas-dah ;
before us was a rich-looking valley, rapidly descending to
the extended plain of the bed of the Lycus; beyond this rose
the dark mountains of the Catacecaumene, from which the
Mæander flows to the valley of the Lycus.
Viewed even at a distance, the peculiar geological features
of this district are apparent: afar off we distinctly saw the
white patches deposited by the waters of Hierapolis, and
giving origin to the Turkish names Pambook or Tambook
Kallasy-signifying Cotton or Pall Castle; and beneath us
extended the bare range of sand-hills flanking the mountain
on the southern side of the valley, and in which Laodiceia is
situated. The wasting hills down which our course lay were
very similar to those in the parallel but wider valley of the
Mosynus, the mass being generally composed of fragments,
principally volcanic, united by aqueous deposits. Some of
these deposits give a singular and beautiful appearance to
the soil, changing as abruptly as the strata at Alum Bay in
the Isle of Wight, and varying in colour sometimes from the
deepest crimson to a delicate pink, at others deepening from
DENIZLEE.
409
the pale yellow of sulphur to the rich brown of umber.
Small streams cut deep into these sandy soils; and we often
saw by our path rippling waters in a bed scarcely ten feet
wide, and at a depth of fifty or sixty feet. These streams
all flow to the richly-wooded plain in which stands the large
town of Denizlee.
The inhabitants of this place, which ranks among the
largest towns in Turkey, we saw under peculiar circum-
stances: the usually peaceable and industrious people had
almost all deserted the town, and the few who were left had
shut themselves within their walls, and with closed gates
were awaiting the attack of an enemy. In the town there
appeared but little power of resistance; but all the bazaars.
were shut, and the people seemed watchful and uneasy.
We soon learned that the governor, who was of the old
school, did not approve the new system of government, and
had levied taxes upon the district contrary to the powers of
his Firman, which law is always accessible to the eye of the
people, and is periodically read to them in public. The sum
demanded of the people by the governor was double the
amount assigned by the Sultan: they had remonstrated in
wain, and at last sent a statement of their grievances to Con-
stantinople, declaring their willingness to pay any sum the
Sultan required. The deputation was however waylaid by
the servants of the governor, and the petition torn to pieces
before their faces. This illegal conduct made the Turks
more determined to be heard: the petition was again written,
and sent guarded by a thousand of the inhabitants. The
governor, anticipating his certain fate, had fled, saying that
he was going to the Pasha for soldiers, and would return
and punish them. The people, from the justice which is
shown to all appeals to the Sultan, appeared to me to have
less cause to fear the threats of their oppressor, than he had
to dread the consequences of his venturing to return. While
here we have heard of a striking instance of the promptness
T
PHRYGIA.
410
and severity of the punishment inflicted upon men in au-
thority for acts of oppression. Tahir Pasha, the generalis-
simo of all the Pashas of Anatolia, and the active-minded
king of Idin, whom we saw but two months ago in all his
power, has oppressed the people of some villages in his dis-
trict, probably, among others, the village of Chi-cooe, which
we had visited; he is in consequence removed, and deprived
of all power and honour, thankful to have his life and liberty
spared and live as a private man. I have no doubt this is
good policy; by a bold stroke the Sultan has removed a too
powerful subject, and given confidence to the people of his
sincerity in carrying out his new system, a principal fea-
ture in which is that the government emanates solely from
himself.
Denizlee has few early ruins, although many walls built
of a rough conglomerate of stones and vegetable matter,
massed together by lime, are scattered about the neighbour-
hood; portions of the walls of the town are also of an early
date, but these are all much later than the numerous blocks,
columns, and fragments of white marble seen in the burial-
grounds and in every street, which, I find, are all brought
from Laodiceia, scarcely an hour's distance to the north: we
propose to proceed thither to-morrow.
May 23rd. We have here parted with our Cavass, as he
is near his home, and his horses are too much jaded, by the
heat of the weather and long travel, to proceed further. We
have agreed with two Turks and a Greek to accompany us
hence to Smyrna in five days: the price we pay is a fixed
sum, and I observe in our suite an extra mule loaded with
packsaddles, that the whole stud may return with merchan-
dize from Smyrna.
I have spoken of the ruins of Laodiceia in my former Jour-
nal. Two years ago, as I approached this spot, nothing was
seen but vultures and the wild and solitary bustard; the only
trace of man was a few chips of marble broken from the
SMYRNA.
411
ancient columns to form the gravestone of a Turk. How
changed is the scene now! Hundreds of peasants, and thou-
sands of cattle, sheep, goats, oxen, and camels, cover the an-
cient city, and continue to arrive in long trains: the people
are actively employed in pitching their tents, while the
cattle are grazing over their new pastures. These pastoral
people migrate from the valley; when the herbage becomes
scanty there, the whole village moves into the hills, keeping
together, the better to protect their flocks from the wolves
and other animals.
Crossing the valley of the Lycus, I again visited Hiera-
polis, and rambled far among its varied and splendid tombs;
the ruins are more extensive than I had fancied on my pre-
vious visit, but my opinion of them remains the same.
May 28th, Smyrna.—I have neglected my Journal during
the last five days, for my route has been precisely that of
my former journey, passing down the valley of the Cogamus
to Philadelphia, Sardis, and on to Cassabar. The season,
although somewhat later, afforded the same display of fruit
and flowers; the corn was falling to the sickle, and the flowers
fading to seed. The caravans were again travelling by night
to avoid the heat of the day, a mode which we are in some
degree compelled to adopt, by starting at two o'clock each
morning. Passing over a country by night deprives the tra-
veller of the pleasure of observation, and substitutes fatigue;
on this account alone I was rejoiced at the termination of a
journey so pleasurable in itself, and promising to afford me
subjects of high interest for research and reflection to the
end of my life.
T 2
ન
412
SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER.
DISCOVERIES DERIVED FROM THE ELUCIDATION OF THE LYCIAN IN-
SCRIPTIONS.-INSTRUCTIONS FOR FUTURE TRAVELLERS.-LISTS AND
EXAMINATION OF COINS.
DURING the progress of my former work on Lycia through
the press, my friend Mr. Daniel Sharpe furnished me with
some interesting results arising from his examination of
my Lycian inscriptions. The short time these were in his
hands would not allow of a more perfect elucidation; but
the discoveries are of so interesting a nature, as connected
with the subject of this work, that I shall enumerate some
of the leading features bearing upon history and geography,
although I well know that still more will ere long be re-
vealed. I must refer the reader to the interesting com-
munication from Mr. Sharpe forming Appendix B. in my
larger work.
The Lycian characters appear at present to be peculiar to
the province*: they include nearly all those letters which are
* In the Supplement to Walpole's Travels are published some in-
scriptions copied by Mr. Cockerell on the coast of Lycia, in the charac-
ters of that country, and one said to have been copied by Captain
Beaufort in Caria. This has been used by some continental philologists
as an evidence of the language having extended over that district also.
I have received a letter from Captain Beaufort since my return to England,
in which he says, "I have at length discovered in my old journals the
place of the inscription printed in Mr. Walpole's book, and I am happy
to tell you that it was at Telmessus, and therefore really in Lycia."
SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER.
413
considered to have formed the original Greek alphabet; these
may have been borrowed from the early Greeks, or both nations.
may have derived them from a common source. The later
additions to the Greek alphabet are not found in the Lycian,
but that alphabet has several peculiar characters, completing
the series of long and short vowels which are found in most
of the Eastern languages.
The language of the inscriptions resembles the Zend, or
ancient Persian, more nearly than any other with which we
have the means of comparing it; but it also contains words of
Semitic origin; these have not affected the structure of the
language, which is thoroughly Indo-Germanic: the vicinity
of the country of Syria readily accounts for some mixture of
the language of that people in the Lycian.
It may be remembered, that in my Journal I have fre-
quently noticed peculiarities in the arts of the early inha-
bitants, and pointed out parallels in the Persepolitan sculp-
tures: this connection is further borne out by history.
Herodotus says, in speaking of the time of the Trojan War
(book i. c. 4), "It is to be observed that the Persians esteem
Asia, with all its various and barbarous inhabitants, as their
own peculiar possession, considering Europe and Greece as
totally distinct and unconnected." Again, in book iv. c. 12,
we find about the same period (during the reign of Ardyis),
that "the Greeks had no settlement in Asia Minor."
The Greek writers called the country in question by the
general name of Lycia, which, although found several times
in the Greek part of the inscription on the obelisk at Xan-
thus, does not occur in the Lycian part of the same inscrip-
tion, where the people are called Tramileæ: for this we
might be in some degree prepared by Herodotus, who says
that they were formerly called Termelæ. Stephanus Byzan-
tinus calls them Termile and Tremile.
Being enabled to read the characters, we find that the
country consisted of two states or people, the Tramelæ and
१
414
SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER.
the Trooes, and many coins bear the name of the city of
the latter people. I feel quite certain, from the geographical
position and importance of the city called by the Greeks
Tlos, that this was the ancient city of the Trooes*: the
frequent change of the P to a A is known to all conversant
with the Greek language. We thus have the capital of the
northern portion of Lycia named after the Trooes, while
the city called by the Greeks Xanthus was the metropolis
of the Tramelæ in the south.
Reviewing the country with these new ideas, I might
almost separate the cities of these former people from those
built by the colonists from Greece at an after period, pro-
bably not earlier than a century before the time of Herodotus.
To do this I should select only those places in which I have
observed features in art peculiar to the earliest inhabitants,
for in many the whole design of the city is purely Greek,
although the surrounding rocks afforded natural facilities for
excavations, of which the Lycians always availed themselves.
I find either coins, or mention in the inscriptions, of almost
the whole of this diminished number of the ancient cities, as
well as of several others, whose total destruction or great
change of name by the after inhabitants prevents their re-
cognition. We find the names of Troouneme (Tlos), Pinara,
Méré (Myra), Gaéaga (Gagæ), and Trabala: also the names
of Ereclé, Pedassis, perhaps of Xenagora and Kopalle. To
the latter city belong two-thirds of the coins collected, and
many of them were obtained in the neighbourhood of the
city called by the Greeks Xanthus. I should conjecture
that Kopalle may have been the ancient name of this city,
but I know no grounds for the supposition beyond this cir-
cumstantial evidence. Stephanus Byzantinus states in his
Geography that the former name of Xanthus was Arna. I
see also traces of these early people in the cities called by
* Inscriptions have since been found which prove this opinion to be
correct.
2
SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER.
415
the Greeks Calynda, Telmessus, Araxa, Antiphellus, and
Limyra, and in the tombs near Cadyanda.
In the funereal inscriptions copied from the monuments
in these cities, all the pedigrees of the deceased, with one
exception, are derived from the mothers: the exception is
on the tomb of the Greek copied at Limyra, and he was
evidently a foreigner, from having his monument inscribed
in both languages. This beautifully confirms the relation
of the custom in the following passage by Herodotus (book i.
c. 73): "They have one distinction from which they never
deviate, which is peculiar to themselves: they take their
names from their mothers, and not from their fathers. If
any one is asked concerning his family, he proceeds imme-
diately to give an account of his descent, mentioning the
female branches only."
From the inscription upon the obelisk-monument at Xan-
thus we obtain the date of a period at which the language was
still used; it records a decree of the king of Persia, therein
styled by his title the Great King of Kings; and it also
alludes to Harpagus, the general of Cyrus the Great. It
will be remembered, that Harpagus was a person entrusted
with the confidence of Astyages, the grandfather of Cyrus,
which is recorded in the interesting account of his being
employed by Astyages to destroy the infant Cyrus, and the
horrible cruelty of his being made to feast upon his own
butchered son, ten years after the birth of Cyrus. Stifling
his revenge for a long period, he at last betrayed Astyages
and his country into the hands of Cyrus, who was then king
of Persia. We afterwards read in Herodotus (book i.
c. 177), that "whilst Harpagus was engaged in the con-
quest of the Lower Asia, Cyrus himself conducted an army
against the upper regions, of every part of which he became
master." I have in a former part of this Work quoted the
account given by Herodotus of the conquest of Xanthus by
Harpagus. At the time of writing his history (about 450
416
SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER.
B.C.) he says, "Of those who now inhabit Lycia, calling
themselves Xanthians, the whole are foreigners, eighty fami-
lies excepted." These foreigners I suppose to have been
the Greeks, whose works show their occupation of the coun-
try for many centuries afterwards.
Amongst the most gratifying results arising from the exa-
mination of these inscriptions, is the assistance they give in
rendering the poems of Homer more intelligible. In the
Iliad we read of Pandarus being a chief coming from Lycia,
and of his being "the best bow in Lycia," thus connecting
him with that country. In the second book he is named
among the allies of Troy, as leading Troes into the field from
Zeleia, at the foot of Mount Ida. Hitherto this has appeared
inconsistent, and Strabo tells us that before his time a cer-
tain Demetrius had written thirty books upon this supposed
error in Homer, and Strabo concludes by allotting a part of
the Troad near Mount Ida to the kingdom of Pandarus.
How clearly the whole of this is now explained, by con-
tinuing to style Pandarus a chief of Lycia, whose country
was Troas, while Sarpedon was also chief of Lycia, from Xan-
thus! Probably the evident difficulty, and consequent con-
fusion, in the geography of Homer, arising from two people
of the same name of Trooes, occasioned his calling the river
in the plains of Troy the Xanthus, and explaining that the
people called it Scamander, but the gods Xanthus. At pre-
sent but one river flows through each of these districts. In
Lycia the colour of the waters alone will testify to the correct-
ness of the name*, but inscriptions found in the city, upon
its banks, confirm it. The ancient name of this river was
Sirbe, a Persian word meaning "sand-colour," or Xanthust.
* My servant, who had not the most distant idea of the ancient name
of the river, in speaking to one of his Greek companions, while crossing
the stream, used the word Xanthus. I asked of what he was speaking ;
he replied that he was speaking of the colour of the water.
+ Bochart's Geography, vol. i. chap. 6.
A
SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER.
417
I shall conclude this part of my Journal, which I trust
may be instrumental in inducing other travellers to pursue
the researches into the history of this interesting portion
of the world, with mentioning a few objects deserving their
attention. I should point out the valley immediately be-
yond Hoozumlee as likely to contain monuments hitherto
unvisited. I saw at a distance an obelisk, which may be
inscribed; it probably stood near the frontier of the coun-
try. The cities of Cragus and Corydalla may no doubt
be discovered where I suggest them in the map; I have
ascertained that they are not to be found in other districts
where I sought them. The city supposed to be Trabala
should by all means be examined, as it was one built by
the earliest people. The north-east end of the valley of
Cassabar may probably contain another city. The long in-
scription upon the obelisk at Xanthus should be recopied,
paying particular attention to the portion written in the
Greek language, for copying which a scaffold or ladder will
be required; and, if power could be obtained, the fragment
upon the ground should be turned over, as the commence-
ment of the inscription is to be expected upon the side now
facing the earth: this is of particular importance, as, if it
should prove to be identical with the decree which follows
immediately in Greek, there would be materials for a good
understanding of the Lycian language. The inscription in
*
During the winter of 1841-42, whilst at Xanthus, I took advan-
tage of having men and machinery at my disposal, to turn over the
fallen portion of the Inscribed Monument, and to examine more closely
the characters on the upper part of the stone. The transcript of the
inscription I published in the first volume of the Transactions of the
Royal Society of Literature. From the marks of mortice-joints which
I noticed on the top of the fallen fragment, and from the circumstance
of there being some heavy pieces of a cap-stone near, I should judge
that this monument has resembled in general form the "Harpy Monu-
ment."
T 3
418
SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER.
the Lycian language, which I partly copied at Antiphellus
is well worth recopying, as the subject is not funereal but
historical.
COINS
COLLECTED DURING THE JOURNEY.
IN each place where I obtained coins during my travels, I
wrapped them in separate packets. The examination of
the contents of these may not only afford information as to
the names of the ancient sites of cities, but may be of his-
torical use in showing by the coinage the connection of
various cities and nations at different ages by commerce or
conquest.
IDIN. (TRALLES.)
By far the greatest number are of the Byzantine and
Christian ages; many Roman, and Greek coins of the age of
Alexander. I obtained one of Alexandria Troas, and a de-
narius of Julius Cæsar.
NASLEE.
Byzantine, Roman, and a few earlier Greek coins of Per-
gamus and Aphrodisias.
KARASOO.
FROM THE NEIGHBOURING RUINS OF APHRODISIAS.
The great bulk are of the Byzantine age; I have also the
coins of Aphrodisias (Gallienus)-two of Plarasa-Attuda
in Phrygia (Commodus)-Laodiceia-Pixodarus, king of
Caria-and Syrian coins of Antiochus.
SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER.
419
ARAB HISSA. (ALABANDA.)
Byzantine, and the coins of Philadelphia, Alabanda, and
of Magnesia-ad-Mæandrum.
DEMMEERGE-DERASY. (ALINDA.)
Amongst many Byzantine coins are those of Maximinus
-Tripolis in Caria-Antiocheia in Caria-two of Miletus
-Antigonus Gonatas, king of Macedon-Alabanda (Cara-
calla)—and five of Alinda.
MELLASSA. (MYLASA.)
Many Greek coins of Caria-some of Mylasa, in the time
of Severus.
ESKY HISSÁ. (STRATONICEIA.)
Greek coins of Rhodes, and two of Stratoniceia.
MOOLAH.
coins.
Many Byzantine-some Roman-Hadrian, of Eumenia
in Phrygia. Otacilia Severa, of Perge in Pamphylia-Anti-
ochus, of Syria-Cyzicus-Pergamus in Mysia-Cassander,
king of Macedon-Rhodes-Halicarnassus-two of Strato-
niceia—and numerous uncertain Lycian coins.
MACRY. (TELMESSUS.)
Many Rhodian coins, found along the south coast of Caria,
the ancient Peræa, nine silver and four copper-Side in
Pamphylia-several Ptolemies-two of Apamea in Phrygia
-three of Massicytus-two of Cragus-Limyra-two un-
certain-Coressus in Ceos-and many uncertain Lycian
HOORAHN. (ARAXA.)
Uncertain Lycian coins.
420
SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER.
DOOVERE. (TLOS.)
Tlos and Massicytus.
MINARA. (PINARA.)
Numerous Lycian coins-four of Pinara-Cragus-three
of Rhodes-three of Antiochus-and two of Ptolemies.
DELTA OF XANTHUS.
Ancient coins with Lycian characters.
PATARA.
Coins very numerous; many Roman and uncertain Lycian,
among them those of Tlos - Myra-Trabala-Antoninus
Pius, of Corinth-Augustus (Egypt)-Ptolemies-two of
Antiochus (Syria)-and one of Cos.
ALMALEE.
Many coins of the time of the Roman Emperors.
FROM THE HIGH LANDS SOUTH OF DENIZLEE.
Many Byzantine-Aphrodisias - Attuda (Domitia) —
Eumenia (Hadrian)—Laodiceia-and some of the age of
Alexander.
THE
XANTHIAN MARBLES;
THEIR
ACQUISITION,
AND
TRANSMISSION TO ENGLAND.
i
THE
XANTHIAN MARBLES*.
DURING my travels in Asia Minor, in the Spring of 1838, I
was so much struck by the beauty and peculiarity of the
architectural remains on the coast of the province of Lycia,
that I determined if possible to penetrate into the interior
of the country.
Observing from the works of Colonel Leake and others
that the valley of the Xanthus would probably be found to
contain ancient cities, and that it had never yet been ex-
plored, I commenced my researches at Patara, and within a
few miles up the valley discovered the extensive and highly
interesting ruins of Xanthus, the former capital of Lycia.
I afterwards found another large city, whose situation alone
would point it out as the most beautiful of ancient sites:
this by inscriptions I found to be the city of Tlos: other
piles of ruins I saw and heard of in the mountains, but I
was unprepared to remain longer in the country.
*The manuscript of the following pages was prepared as a register
of the incidents connected with the acquisition of the Xanthian Marbles
by the British Museum, and, had not circumstances induced its publi-
cation, would have been deposited among the records of that Institution.
London, December 14, 1842.
C. F.
424
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
British Museum, and they, in the Spring of 1839, at my
urgent request, applied to Lord Palmerston to ask of the
Sultan a firman or letter, granting leave to bring away some
of the works of ancient art which I had discovered.
In the autumn of 1839, finding that I could gain no in-
formation from books of the interesting district which I
had visited, I again left England for Lycia, more fully pre-
pared for a re-examination of its geography and works of
art. To secure an accurate representation of the latter, I
took with me Mr. George Scharf, a young English artist.
Anticipating the possession of the firman from the Sultan,
I offered to the Trustees of the British Museum my personal
services while in Lycia, in pointing out the most desirable
objects to remove. From Smyrna I wrote to Lord Ponsonby,
our ambassador at Constantinople, to urge the importance
of obtaining the firman by the Spring of 1840, and requesting
that it might be forwarded to the ship, ordered by the Go-
vernment to be at Rhodes on the 1st of May. On the 12th
of May I found at Rhodes the following letter from Lord
Ponsonby:-
"March 7th, 1840.
( Sir,
"I have had the honour to receive your letter of the 23rd of February,
and immediately made application to the Sublime Porte for a firman,
such as you desire to have, but I regret to say the Porte objects to
the extent and to the generality of the demand, and I am much afraid I
shall not be able to obtain what you want: I will do all in my power.
There are other obstacles, besides what I have mentioned, of a nature
that I cannot explain to you. Should I succeed, I will send the firman
to Smyrna, to Her Majesty's Consul. I have no means of sending it
to you.
"I have the honour to be, Sir,
"Your most obedient, humble servant,
"PONSONBY."
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
425
At this period I had discovered thirteen other cities in
Lycia, and each containing works of ancient art. Return-
ing to England, I again laid before the public my Journal,
and with increased zeal the Government applied to Lord
Ponsonby; but it was not until October 1841 that the Trus-
tees of the Museum received information that the firman
was at last obtained, and was left in the hands of the Consul
at Smyrna, at the same time urging the necessity of its being
promptly acted upon, and stating the difficulties experienced
in obtaining the document.
I was applied to by the Museum to furnish forthwith full
instructions as to what objects were to be removed, and to
make maps, plans, and descriptions as to where each frag-
ment was to be sought by the Captain of such of Her Ma-
jesty's ships as might be appointed to the service. I felt
certain that the removal of one stone would bring to light
others, probably better preserved and more valuable, and
that the visible formed but a fraction of what might be ob-
tained, but could not be enumerated in written orders, which
might probably be only literally obeyed. With these feel-
ings I wrote the following letter to the Secretary of the
British Museum :-
"October 12th, 1841.
"Dear Sir,
"At the request of the Trustees of the Museum, I furnish written in-
structions for the finding the monuments about to be removed from
Lycia. I feel that, should this expedition fail in any point, it will be
from a want of local knowledge of the country and manners of the people;
and as my interest in the works of art makes me feel almost responsible
for their safety into our care, I write to offer my services to point out
the objects for removal. There is little pleasurable in wintering in a
tent, or in a sea-voyage at this season to a spot I have already twice
visited; but I should hereafter regret any incompleteness in the expe-
dition which I could have prevented. Of course I require no remunera-
tion, and I pay my own expenses, but shall expect a free passage out
and home in some of Her Majesty's packets, and rations with the officers.
426
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
Should this meet the approbation of the Trustees, perhaps you will be
kind enough to let me know.
"Believe me to remain, yours very truly,
"To the Rev. J. Forshall,
Secretary, British Museum."
"CHARLES FELLOWS."
In reply I received a letter, dated the 15th of October,
accepting my proffered services, and stating that the papers.
were made up for the vessel starting on the 17th, and show-
ing the necessity of my accompanying them in order to
secure a passage from Malta in the ship appointed to the
expedition, which would probably sail on the arrival of the
despatches. The reply concludes, "The Trustees are very
sensible of the liberality and public spirit which your pro-
posal to them manifests, and do not doubt that the naval
officer employed on the service will derive essential advan-
tage from your presence and counsel.”
The despatches and all the requisites for the expedition
were therefore made up independently of my accompanying
it, which was solely for the purpose of pointing out to the
Captain the objects to be removed. On the 16th of October,
within thirty-six hours from the receipt of this letter, I was
on board the Tagus steam-packet off Southampton, with my
tent, canteen, bedding, and stores, supplied with no other
authority than an order to be received on board Her Ma-
jesty's ship, about to sail from Malta to Xanthus.
On my arrival at Malta, on the 30th of October, I found
that Captain Graves, of Her Majesty's ship Beacon, then off
the Island of Paros, had been selected for the service; and
the Admiral commanding in chief at once ordered the Ve-
suvius steam-ship to take me, together with three months'
additional stores for the Beacon, to join the ship. On the
8th of November we arrived at Port Naussa, where the sur-
veying-ship was anchored. A delay of a week occurred here
in collecting the small vessels which were out surveying
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
427
along the coasts. The Isabella, a schooner, with Mr. Hoskyn,
the master of the Beacon, was then in Lycia, where he
had spent most of the summer in examining and mapping
the valley of the Xanthus. On board the Beacon I saw
plans of the ruins of the city of Xanthus as well as maps
of the valley, the result of his labours during the previous
winter.
On witnessing the opening of the despatches to Captain
Graves, I was surprised to find that no funds were provided
for the expedition, nor was the subject at all referred to in
any of the papers. The orders to the Captain were simply
to this effect: "To sail to Smyrna for the firman, and thence
to the nearest safe anchorage to the mouth of the river
Xanthus, and there to put on board and bring away to
Malta such objects as should be pointed out by Mr. Fellows."
This omission of placing funds in the hands of the Captain
of the expedition was the first impediment I encountered;
but knowing that the necessary expenses would be small,
being merely for tools, trifling presents to the peasantry, or
the occasional hire of their cattle, I offered to provide the
funds required, feeling sure that the Trustees of the Museum
had inadvertently omitted the supplies, but would gladly
repay any sums advanced.
We arrived at Smyrna on the 15th of November: a
heavier cloud here hung over the expedition. The documents
left with the Consul, and represented in an accompanying
letter from our Ambassador to him, as well as to the Go-
vernment at home, as "the necessary firman," and on which
representation I had left England, were found to be only
letters dated long before, and proposing that inquiry should
be made as to what was desired by England, and to wait a
report from the local authorities as to the practicability of
granting the request. I give a copy of the papers.
428
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
Translation of a letter from his Excellency the Grand Vizir to the
Muhassil, to the Judge, and to the Effendis and Agas composing
the Municipal Council of the Sangiak of Menteché.
"It is known to the British Government that there are some stones
sculptured with art, built into some walls at a place near Eksekuid, a
village in the dependency of Macri, in the Sangiak of Menteché, and
into the walls of the fortress of Boudroum; and as these stones are
antique remains and rare objects, His Excellency the English Ambas-
sador has demanded and solicited by a memorial that they might be
removed from thence, and be given as a present to the British Govern-
ment.
tr
'Although it is necessary, in consideration of the friendship that
exists between the Sublime Porte and the Court of Great Britain, to
accede to such demands, yet it has been judged expedient first of all to
take some information respecting the stones in question.
"You will begin, therefore, by informing us, without delay, what it
would be necessary to do in order to take away these stones, and replace
them by others; and it is for this reason that I have written and sent
this letter to you.
"The 17th Rébud Ahker, 1257; corresponding with 7th June, 1841.
"L.
Riouf
S."
The above was accompanied by a letter from the Dra-
goman of the British Embassy, of which the following is a
copy:
(C
'My Lord,
"Pera, June 10, 1841.
“In transmitting to your Excellency His Highness the Grand Vizir's
letter concerning the sculptures of Xanthus and Halycarnassus, I am
happy to inform you that I have Rifaat Pasha's word that they will be
given to Her Majesty's Government. His Excellency tells me that the
letter, such as it is, has been thought necessary as a first step.
"I beg leave strongly to recommend a measure which I consider as
being indispensable: it is, that the vizirial letter should be presented to
the authorities of Menteché by some person capable to point out the
stones therein alluded to. Everybody knows that the modern name of
Halycarnassus is Boudroum; but who can say exactly the present
Turkish name for Xanthus ? From what I know, Xanthus must be at,
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
429
or very near, the village of Eksekuid, and the letter has been written in
consequence.
"In order, therefore, to leave no pretext for the authorities to make
difficulties, and say that they do not exactly know where the stones are,
some well-informed person must go to the very spot.
"Some well-qualified person might be found at Smyrna: Xanthus is,
at all events, in the Sangiak of Menteché.
"I have the honour to be, with the greatest respect,
re
"My Lord,
"Your Excellency's most obedient, humble servant,
"FREDERICK PISANI.
"To His Excellency Viscount Ponsonby,
&c. &c. &c."
The expedition must here have failed, as Captain Graves
could only return and report to the Admiral, who would
communicate with England, and an application to the Porte
must have followed; and in the slowness of diplomatic pro-
ceedings, this might be months or years in coming to ma-
turity. My official friends around me at Smyrna enter-
tained but little hope of our overcoming the difficulties
which faced us; but I saw a ray of light, and decided on
the course to pursue. My anticipated duty was simply to
point out the objects to be removed. It was now necessary
to assume the management of obtaining the proper autho-
rities, which did not come within the duty of the Captain.
My mission extended only to the removal of the marbles
from Xanthus, and the orders from the Admiral were also
limited to that duty.
I observed that Lord Ponsonby had included in his request
permission to remove marbles now built into the inner walls
of one of the principal fortresses of the Sultan, the castle
at Boodroom, the ancient Halicarnassus. The application
to Lord Ponsonby to request this of the Sultan was made
more than two years after his application for the Xanthian
Marbles, and I had no instructions respecting them; nor
would I have been a party to ask what, to all who have seen
430
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
them, must be considered an unreasonable request. I felt
sure that, if properly explained, no objection could be made
to the removal of the buried stones in the almost unknown
mountains of Lycia. I therefore resolved to go to Constan-
tinople and ask for these only, and, if I failed, then to return
to England. To assume an appearance of authority, of
which I had but little in reality, I requested Captain Graves
to accompany me in the steam-packet, leaving his ship at
Smyrna. We arrived on the 21st of November, and on the
first application to the authorities* I was gratified in finding
that I had judged rightly. Riouf Pasha observed, that he
was glad that the other part of the request was withdrawn,
as he feared it never could have been granted; that no diffi-
culty now remained, and a firman should be given forthwith
for the marbles from Xanthus. Captain Graves returned to
Smyrna immediately, and I awaited the tedious progress of
state papers until the 30th, when I received the necessary
document from the Dragoman, while on board the vessel in
which I was starting for Smyrna. In the whole transaction
with the officers of state in obtaining this authority, the
greatest attention was paid, and not the slightest fee was
expected or given.
The following is a translation of the Authority:-
A letter from H.H. the Grand Vizir to Hadgi Ali Pasha, Governor
of Rhodes, dated the 15th of Sheoval, 1257 (the 29th of November,
1841).
[After the usual titles.]
"The British Embassy has represented by a tairer [a note in Turkish]
that there are some antiques consisting in sculptured stones lying down,
and of no use, at a place near the village of Koonik, in the district of
Marmoriss, which is one of the dependencies of Rhodes, and not far
from the sea-shore; and has requested that the antiques aforesaid should
be given to the British Government, for the purpose of putting them in
* I am indebted to Mr. Bankhead, the Minister Plenipotentiary, for
his attention to my wishes in communicating with the authorities.
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
431
the Museum.
The British Embassy has in the meantime represented,
that the distinguished Captain Graves has been ordered by the British
Government to embark those stones and to carry them to England;
and that as he is going himself to the spot a letter was asked in his
behalf, that your Excellency may give him every assistance on this
occasion.
"The Sublime Porte is interested in granting such demands, in con-
sequence of the sincere friendship existing between the two Governments.
If, therefore, the antiquities above mentioned are lying down here and
there, and are of no use, Your Excellency shall make no objection to the
Captain's taking them away and carrying them on board; and to that
effect you will be pleased to appoint one or two of your attendants to
accompany him. Should
him. Should any great obstacle exist in giving them, you
will write him on the subject, that we may do what is necessary.
"Such are the Sultan's commands, in conformity to which you will
act; and, consequently, I write and forward to Your Excellency the
present despatch.
"L.
Mehemed
Riouf
S."
The knowledge of the boundaries of the various Pashalics
of the remote districts is very limited at Constantinople. I
therefore myself gave instruction for the letter, and although
imperfect I could then obtain no better authority. On my
return to Smyrna I learned more, and, fearing verbal irregu-
larity, I provided a present for the Pasha to whom it was
addressed*.
* In order to show the power exercised on the letter of the law by
Turkish authorities, and sometimes, no doubt, they are instructed so
to act, rather than that the head authority should at once refuse the
request,-I add some anecdotes which may also show the extreme jea-
lousy the Turks have of their fortresses being visited by Franks.
Some English travellers being anxious to examine the sculpture re-
presented to be built within the walls of the castle of Boodroom, and
knowing the difficulty in gaining admittance, took the precaution to
obtain an order from Constantinople to go "round the fortification at
Boodroom." The governor of the castle received the order with every
432
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
After purchasing spades, pickaxes, crowbars, and all that
was considered essential, we sailed on the 2nd of December
for Rhodes. Thirty hours is the usual passage for the
Austrian steam-vessels; we were sixteen days at sea,—
arriving at Rhodes on the 18th of December. As our mis-
sion was to the Pasha from the Sultan, we thought it advis-
able, more particularly as there were several weak points in
the wording of the letter, to pay to the Pasha every mark of
respect. The Captain therefore sent to know what salute
he would allow, on which he requested seventeen guns at
eight o'clock on the following morning, which were answered
by as many from the old castle over our heads. The Captain,
three of his officers, and myself, accompanied by our Consul,
had an audience at nine o'clock, when we were received with
every mark of attention. Our letter was read aloud to the
Pasha, and much conversation followed between him and his
secretary. This arose upon points of difficulty, all of which
were surmounted by the will and kindness of the Pasha.
The river Xanthus, which flows at the foot of the Acropolis
of the ancient city, is the boundary of the Pashalic; the
mark of respect, and offered the usual hospitality of the East; after
which he told the travellers, that the mandate could not admit them
within the castle, as his orders were most strict on that point, but they
might go “round the fortification.'
>>
This was a joke against the English travellers: some French gentle-
men profited by the warning, and were more particular in having their
authority worded, desiring that they might "go within and examine
anything they required." The same respect was shown to them by the
governor; but as they entered, he called their attention to one point in
the order, observing that he had no power to let them out of the castle
again. I need not add the effect of this intimation.
The Rev. V. Arundell also obtained leave to "take down" some sculpture
from a gateway at Ephesus, which he accomplished with difficulty: here
the Aga interposed, stating that the authority did not extend to taking
the stones away. They were consequently left, and afterwards, in the
course of time, destroyed.
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
433
ruins, the scene of our intended operations, lay beyond, on
the southern banks of the river, and therefore within the
Pashalic of Adalia; but it was decided that we should pro-
ceed with our expedition on the responsibility of the Pasha
of Rhodes, and in the meantime the documents should be
forwarded to the Aga at Fornas, the nearest authority to
the ruins, and he was to send a messenger with them to
Adalia; our Pasha observing, "that the instructions were
the same to whomsoever they might be addressed*." Two
excellent men, the chiefs of the Police (Cavasses), were
appointed to accompany us, perhaps in the double capacity
of a guard of honour, and to see justice done between all
parties; they were to protect us from imposition, and to
report any oppression of the peasantry by us.
We sailed from Rhodes, but forty-five miles from our
destination, on the 21st of December, and did not arrive
until the 26th: our voyages were most tedious.
The Captain could not find a secure berth for the ship in
Kalamaky Bay: he therefore landed some stores and the
men for the expedition, and sailed for the Bay of Macry,
about fifty miles to the northward, where also lay the Isa-
bella with Mr. Hoskyn. My surprise was great on hearing
from the Captain, a few hours before we were put on shore,
that neither he nor any of his surveying officers were to be
of the expedition, and that the whole was to be left to his
first lieutenant, who was a stranger to the country and had
recently joined the ship. I urged the necessity for all the
engineering skill the Captain could spare, to which he re-
plied, that they could not leave the charts, but perhaps he
might come down to see us. I was landed with the first
party in order to seek the mouth of the river, which was not
* After we had been some weeks at work in the ruins, our acts were
confirmed by a message from the Pasha of Adalia, saying, that "the
Queen of England was good, the Sultan was good, and that we were all
brothers, and that we might take what we liked.”
U
434
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
laid down in the charts. After a walk of two or three
miles we found it, and made signals for the other boats.
The party landed consisted of fifteen working men, a boy,
the Lieutenant, the Gunner, the Cavasses, a youth, the son
of Mr. Wilkinson, our Consul at Rhodes, and myself. Our
five tents were soon pitched, fires lighted, and our cutter,
galley, and dingy boats secured within the river. High
sand-hills arose for miles around us, and no signs of life were
visible but the footsteps of the wolves, jackals, and hares.
Huge trunks of decayed trees, washed down during past
ages, afforded plenty of fuel for our fires, which vied with
the full moon in illuminating our encampment, and must
have served as a beacon to our ship, which had sailed afar
to the northward.
The river Xanthus is one of the most powerful, wild, and
unmanageable streams I ever saw: the volume of water is
very great, far exceeding that of the Thames at Richmond;
the stream rushes probably at the rate of five miles an hour.
For the first three miles from its mouth, where it winds
through the high range of sand-hills, I had never before seen
it, but above this had traced it to its source in the Yecilassies
of the high mountains of the Taurus, probably a course of
nearly two hundred miles. Our boats drew two feet and a
half of water, and had great difficulty in making head.
against the heaviest part of the stream, which marked the
deepest channel through the bar of sand formed at the
entrance to the river. Once within this, to accomplish
which cost us much labour and risk, the men having to
jump overboard to keep the boats in their course, the waters
were deep and comparatively tranquil.
In manning our boats on the morning of the 27th we
found that the eight oars in the cutter made no way against
the stream; we therefore abandoned them, and set all hands
to work in tracking the lightened boats with ropes from the
shore, leaving in them only a coxswain and one man, who
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
435
with a pole had continually to fathom the water ahead.
From the gulfy nature of the river the depth often varied,
within the length of the boat, from fifteen to two feet, and
in the turbid waters these shoals could be avoided only by
keeping in the strongest streams; the labour was therefore
great; axes and billhooks were in constant use, in cutting
away the branches of trees overhanging the river, which in-
terrupted the towing-line. For this labour we soon found
our men insufficient to work the two boats; we therefore
put all hands to one, and at noon pitched the tents and re-
turned to bring the other boat to our place of halting, which
was within the range of sand-hills, and on the plain extend-
ing to the ruins of the ancient city of Xanthus. This flat
is apparently covered with underwood of myrtle, oleander,
storax, and tamarisk, but is occasionally cleared for patches.
of cultivation. Our encampment soon attracted the atten-
tion of the peasants, whose invisible tents and huts were
sheltered with their flocks amongst the bushes: their asto-
nishment at everything they saw was evinced by groups
collected on every hillock around us; and I soon found that
the hospitality and kindness which I had before experienced
was with this people a custom: eggs, poultry, fruit, and milk
were brought to us, and every attention afforded; they
acted as pilots, by wading over the shallows and pointing
out our best course for the boats. Four days were we navi-
gating our little stores up the river to the ancient city, a
course not exceeding nine miles, and which we afterwards
commonly ran down in a boat within three-quarters of an
hour.
Our early halts each day gave me leisure for little rambles,
and within a mile of our first encampment I visited some
ancient walls, which on my former tours were inaccessible
on account of the swamps surrounding them. I was much
pleased at finding a beautiful little theatre, with its back
within an isolated rocky hill; over the door was a series of
U 2
436
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
grotesque masks, perhaps representing the passions; there
was no trace of the proscenium, and I was again induced to
believe that this part of the ancient theatres might have been
sometimes constructed of wood and destroyed by time. Near
the theatre were the ruins of a building, probably a small
temple, which had been ornamented with columns. No former
city was to be traced, and I have little doubt that this was
the sacred grove and haunt of Latona, the Letoum which in
my last Journal I suggested was on this spot.
Our evenings were not without amusement; the sailors
soon made bats and balls, and cricket was perhaps for the
first time played in Lycia; at all events the wonder expressed
by the living generation showed that it was not a game
known to the present inhabitants. The weather was delight-
ful; the thermometer at night stood at 40°, and in the day 64°.
Our nights, which were lighted by a full moon, were often
varied by alarm of wild beasts, or rather a hope that we might
have some sport; the gunner distributed arms to the men,
but the game was too wary for inexperienced sportsmen;
when we were still, the wild boars and their young came
grunting past our tents, and the wolves and jackals howled
around us, but the slightest movement among our men only
caused the flight of wild ducks, and all was still again.
On the 30th of December we pitched our tents on the
plain immediately beneath the ruins of the ancient city.
During the three following days rain fell almost incessantly,
and we could do little but protect our tents from the effect
of the falling torrents by cutting drains around our encamp-
ment. We cleared away the brushwood from the scenes of
our future labours, and busily contrived abodes for the men,
less pervious to the elements and upon higher ground. We
reconstructed the ruined walls of a barn, and with fresh-cut
trees* formed rafters which were wattled with brushwood:
*We had permission to cut down any trees excepting the Velanéa oak
(Quercus Egilops); the acorn of this produces a revenue to the Sultan.
Charles Fellows. 1842.
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200
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A view of part of the ruins of
XANTHUS
Shewing the sites whence the marbles
were taken
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Fut by Tohn Murray. Londer
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
437
over this were thrown sail-cloths, and a good barrack formed
for double our number of men. The gunner's tent and one
for the tools were pitched by the side. For the officers and
myself, I induced a family, consisting of a mother, two
daughters, and a son, to leave us their hut, which was ad-
mirably situated for our works. I found, as on my former
visits to these people, that money was not the powerful in-
ducement; all offers were ineffectual to persuade them to
remove, until we represented the extreme damp and incon-
venience we felt from the low ground and from remaining in
our tents. They then agreed to move their family to about
half a mile distant, and we whitewashed and entered our
picturesque abode on the 2nd of January*. Half our hands
had gone down to the coast to bring up a part of the stores
of planks, poles, ropes, etc., which we had been obliged to
leave behind, and with the four or five working men who re-
mained we could do little in commencing our operations.
The object of the expedition was to bring away the bas-
reliefs representing the legend of the Daughters of King
Pandarus, surrounding a stele, or high square monument,
which we called the "Harpy Tomb,"-the beautiful gothic-
shaped tomb having chariots and horses sculptured upon its
top, which we called the "Horse Tomb,"-and some three or
four fragments of sculpture built into walls. These were the
specified visible objects we sought to remove; but I expected
to find much more, and I was not mistaken.
I had noticed in my Journal that, from the massive foun-
dation still built-in with its rock upon the brow of a cliff
immediately above our tents, in all probability temples had
* Our room was twelve feet square; upon the floor of this we occa-
sionally spread eleven beds: the servants occupied the portico, which
also served as our kitchen. The Cavasses had a hut to themselves, which
was the resort of all the passing Turks; in the evening they had often
music, and sometimes a dance-amusements similar to those described
in the former part of this volume.
438
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
stood; two fragments of sculptured frieze which I had noticed
among the bushes strengthened this opinion: of these I have
given engravings in my "Lycia." I determined to seek here
for more; and on the 7th and 8th of January, with my five
men, found in a few hours two other portions of friezes near
the same spot. Down the precipice in front of this site lay
an avalanche of stones and piles on either side along the edge
of the cliffs. These stones differed in size, but might average
a ton each; the upper ones, which had last fallen, and had
formed the base of the building above, weighed many of them
seven or eight tons each, but from their position on the side
of the hill they were not difficult to remove.
The 9th of January was Sunday, when all the men after
service generally rambled about, and it often happened that
it was the most prolific day for discoveries. In endeavouring
to catch a scorpion, I crept into a hole among a pile of large
blocks of white marble, and to my great joy saw above me,
upon the under side of a stone, an Amazon on horseback,
and a fine naked figure with a shield, the whole as white and
perfect as when first sculptured. Within an hour, with the
aid of some of the men, we found sufficient work for the fol-
lowing week, and anxiously did I await the Monday morning,
the first mustering of our full complement of men. Five
more stones were brought to light on the 10th.
The Harpy Tomb consisted of a square shaft in one block,
weighing about eighty tons, its height seventeen feet, placed
upon a base rising on one side six feet from the ground, on
the other but little above the present level of the earth.
Around the sides of the top of the shaft were ranged the bas-
reliefs in white marble, about three feet three inches high;
upon these rested a capstone, apparently a series of stones,
one projecting over the other; but these are cut in one block,
probably fifteen to twenty tons in weight. Within the top
of the shaft was hollowed out a chamber, which, with the
bas-relief sides, was seven feet six inches high and seven
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
439
feet square. This singular chamber had been probably in
the early ages of Christianity the cell of an anchoret, perhaps
a disciple of Simeon Stylites, whose name he derived from
his habitation, which I believe we have generally translated
as meaning a column, but the form now in question is un-
doubtedly a stele, as a similar monument close by is so called
in its inscription. The traces of the religious paintings and
monograms of this holy man still remain upon the backs of
the marble of the bas-reliefs. I suggested a plan for with-
drawing the sculpture from this monument, by building
within the chamber a mass of stone-work close up to the
capstone, in order to receive its weight when the marbles
should be removed, then wedging up the capstone on either
side as the stones were withdrawn. This plan was con-
demned as unfeasible. For the Horse Tomb I proposed
that sheers should be placed over it, and with blocks and
ropes, or tightened cords afterwards wetted, the top should
be raised and thus taken in pieces; but for this we had not
the requisite machinery.
On the evening of Thursday, the 6th of January, Captain
Graves, with eight gentlemen, among whom were Mr. Hoskyn
and Lieutenant Spratt, two of his surveying officers, arrived
in the course of a tour down the valley of the Xanthus, and
proceeded on the morning of the 11th to make researches in
the Cragus mountains. I regret that in this ramble of thir-
teen days in and around the Cragus mountains they did not
find the ancient city of Cragus; they visited only Pinara,
Cydna, and Sidyma.
Captain Graves spent the whole of Monday, the 10th,
amidst the ruins, and I am glad that he witnessed the com-
mencement of our discoveries. He saw the seven first stones
which were found; upwards of seventy were afterwards dis-
covered, but these he has never seen. I mentioned my plans
for taking down the tombs to Mr. Hoskyn, but the Captain
left orders that neither of them were to be touched, as we
440
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
had not the requisite machinery. At Malta I had stated to
the Admiral that flat-bottomed boats would be indispensable
for removing the stones down the river: he replied, that if
timber was to be had, the ship's carpenters would construct
them. I mentioned this want to Captain Graves at Smyrna
and at the mouth of the river. I now again urged the neces-
sity for them, when he said that he would not have any of
the stones taken down the river, and that proper stores must
be obtained from Malta; that he should bring his ship off
the mouth of the river on the 1st of March to take all hands
away. I urged that he should sail at once, or communicate
by the post to the Admiral requesting more assistance; but
he replied that he would write to Captain Beaufort to know
if he should proceed with this duty or go on with the sur-
vey,
and that the answer could not be at Malta until March.
I represented the loss of the season, and my necessary return
to England before the completion of the expedition; but the
order was given, and the Captain, with both his surveying
officers, continued their tour on the morning of the 11th of
January. A young assistant-surgeon who came with the
party remained with us.
I took a solitary walk of some hours before I could decide
upon my course of action. I need not say that I was an-
noyed. Before me lay a mine of treasure just opened, and
all, whatever the extent, at our disposal; I had an excellent
set of willing working men, the best season in the year, ample
authority from our own as well as the government of the
Sultan, and no difficulties or wants but to communicate with
Malta for the simple boats and machinery required. This
was refused: whatever we found must be left behind until
other ships were sent; and, by the delay of our returning to
Malta, the expedition would probably be too late for this
season, on account of the heat of the weather and scarcity of
water in the river. A year might pass over before the trea-
sures would be safe in English custody; ignorance of the
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
441
peasantry, the curiosity or wantonness of travellers, might
do them injury, or political changes might check the expe-
dition.
I decided upon my plans. We had two carpenters who
had hitherto worked with the men; these I employed solely
in constructing crates and cases for securing the stones as
soon as they were found; but within ten days we discovered
so many, that half of the men were obliged to work at the
boats in bringing up timber to keep the carpenters em-
ployed. The carpenters, from the 21st of January until the
1st of March, worked a day and a half each day, and three
or four of the stones were left uncased when we came away.
Had our men been kept together, and the protection of the
stones not been required, I know not what might have been
the extent of our success. Up to this period I had never
given any orders to the men; the carpenters now acted under
my instructions. The gunner, each morning at about nine
o'clock, told me the orders he had received for the day, which
ended about half-past four o'clock; the hour for dinner
divided the day.
On the 5th of January we saw from the heights above the
city that the Isabella was off the coast, bringing us more
men and some stores. Mr. Wilkinson was therefore sent
down to see what assistance was required with camels or
boats for the river. One of the Turks in the huts of Koonik
lent him a horse, and about noon he trotted off down the val-
ley. It was nearly six o'clock, and almost dark, when he
returned with the sad news that a fatal accident had hap-
pened in landing the men on the beach. It appeared that
the dingy, a small boat used for sending short distances
ashore, had landed one load of stores and five men, and was
again bringing a second. The sea being perfectly calm pro-
bably tempted them to overload the boat, for the boat had
an anchor, a keg of spirits, and much baggage on board, be-
sides seven men: she was consequently deep in the water;
U 3
442
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
a slight swell came on, and she was swamped. All went
down within a hundred yards of the shore: two of the men
who could not swim were lost. The most gallant spirit was
shown by one of the survivors in returning to endeavour to
rescue his companions, but they had sunk. The bodies of
the men were afterwards washed on shore, and buried deep
in the sand by their comrades. The cask of spirits alone
swam to the shore, the weight of the anchor probably keep-
ing the boat and her cargo at the bottom.
The report of the distress of the men, wet, cold, and with-
out the means of obtaining fire, as well as Wilkinson's haste
to send them succour, caused him to lose his way amidst the
high thickets: the horse's feet sank in the mud of the un-
tracked road, and he became faint. Wilkinson seeing the
distant lights of our tents, dismounted, leaving his exhausted
horse, and walked home with the sad news. He said that
he knew where he had left the horse, and the next morning
sent a Turk to seek it; but the search was in vain. On the
following day Wilkinson went himself, and found only the
saddle, a part of the bridle, and one hoof; the whole of the
animal having been carried away and devoured by wolves.
The marks of the blood and struggling of the horse pointed
out the scene of its destruction.
Our researches amongst the ruins of the fallen temples
continued to be successful. On the north side of the foun-
dations, upon the cliff, after throwing over the heavy stones,
three pieces of sculptured frieze lay in succession; beneath
these, other fragments of statues, and working downwards
we found that we were within a cistern ten feet six inches
long and six feet wide. This had been arched over, and an
earthen pipe for conveying water was inserted at the corner:
the cement with which it was lined still remained sound and
perfectly smooth. As we proceeded to empty this cistern
we found several heads of statues, architectural fragments,
marble tiles and ridge-stones, and within a foot of the bottom
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
443
a few inches of earth, beneath which lay the fragments of
the top of the cistern. These had fallen with such force
upon the cement at the bottom, that several stones had pene-
trated its surface, or the cistern would still have held water;
the depth was six feet. On the opposite side, on the south,
was a bank of earth and bushes, but I suspected that here
also might be a cistern buried beneath. I therefore had the
earth removed, and found another, containing portions of a
frieze, and five or six lengths of fluted columns and cornices,
several lions' faces forming waterspouts, and two statues—
one a man with a child on his knee; together with numerous
fragments of legs, arms, and portions of broken sculpture.
This cistern was circular, nine feet six inches in diameter,
and the same in depth: earth and the fragments of the arched
top filled the bottom of this also.
:
On the east of the foundation, being the side facing the
level ground and opposite to the cliff, I found four pieces of
frieze and a key-stone of the cornice, or border of a pedi-
ment on the apex of this was a square cutting to receive a
statue. Another piece of this cornice, forming one of the
extreme angles, was also cut to receive a statue, about nine
inches distant from the end. These made me hope to dis-
cover some statues; and on the following day we dug up two
figures lying close together, and one a few feet apart: these
were of about the same scale, and had probably surmounted
the pediment of a temple. Each of these statues displayed
the emblems of Venus beneath their feet: one had a dove,
another a dolphin, and the third a tortoise. The pleasure
and excitement of these discoveries were entered into even
by the sailors, who often forgot the dinner-hour or worked
after dusk to finish the getting out of a statue: indeed great
care was needed to prevent their being in too much haste to
raise
up the figures, for while the marble was saturated with
the moisture of the earth the slightest blow chipped off the
light folds of the drapery; these hardened as they dried in
444
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
the air. Beneath the statues was a layer of chips, as in a
mason's yard, and beneath these the black natural earth,
which was always our signal for ceasing to excavate.
On
this level we often found bronze pins and a kind of packing-
needle, and three or four small copper coins, which on exa-
mination proved to be the coins of the ancient Greek city.
In removing the large stones forming the avalanche in front
of the precipice, on the west side, we found, I think, be-
tween thirty and forty pieces of sculptured frieze, making
about 220 feet of frieze and eleven statues, from the site of
this basement.
I must observe, what I cannot at all explain, that these
sculptures, from their various sizes and subjects, must have
formed four distinct friezes, and each of them external, as
the angles are sculptured. These stones I found pell-mell
one over the other; and yet from the metal ties remaining
upon or near many of them, and the fragments of heads or
arms broken off in their fall still lying close to the stone from
which they had been separated, I feel sure that all are as
when first shaken down by an earthquake.
Our depôt for stones, as soon as cased, was at the foot of
the cliff near which so many were found: this, therefore, was
the constant haunt of our carpenters and men. The sailors
observed that two or three days in each week a party of three
or four Turks on horses, preceded by ten or twelve fierce-
looking hounds, passed by them into the woods; a Turk
generally came before the dogs making signs to the men to
keep out of the way, as the dogs were fierce: in an hour or
two they returned, the hounds looking much more docile,
not requiring the caution of the keeper. This mystery was
explained the following Sunday; some of the sailors followed
the party, and found that the excursion was merely to feed
the dogs: often within a mile of the ruins they shot two
or three wild boars, which the dogs devoured, while their
masters dismounted to smoke their pipes. This done, they
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
445
returned home satisfied. The sailors soon made known by
signs that they would like to have a boar, and through the
interpreter their request was acceded to; but the Turks
asked where their dogs were, not conceiving it possible that
any but dogs ever ate the unclean meat: no Mahometan will
even touch the animal or its skin. On the following day a
fine boar was shot for the men three miles from our quarters:
the Turks would not allow any of their horses to carry the
dead boar; the sailors, therefore, with poles and hand-bar-
rows brought home the huge beast. Sheers were soon
formed, and the boar suspended and cut up in a manner
worthy of an English butcher. All the Turks slunk off one
by one, for the first time disgusted with our manners. I ob-
served that they kept aloof for several days afterwards, and
would never again accept of any of our food, even pudding
or cake, fearing that we should mix up the unclean meat.
The porcupine, which was one of our most delicious foods,
was also offensive to them; but they afterwards, on each
hunting excursion, reported to our interpreter that they had
shot and left for us to fetch away various animals. One day
two bears were reported to be left, but my Greek cook here
had his prejudices, although he made no allowance for the
religious scruples of the Turks.
I have mentioned in my Journals of 1838 and 1840 the
sculptures built into the walls of the ancient Acropolis, and
have in them given representations of many. To remove.
these was our next object. The wall had been put together
by the Romans, and is wholly composed of the ruins of some
extremely ancient ornamented building, which most probably
stood near the present site of the wall. On the other side
of the Acropolis a similar wall is formed, running across the
arc of the theatre. This is chiefly composed of the seats
and ornamented chairs which formed the upper circles and
places of honour in the theatre. The whole of the archi-
tecture, sculpture, and inscriptions found upon the Acropolis
446
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
and on its monuments in the rear, are of early Eastern cha-
racter, and distinct from the Greek, which is the only style
of art found in the other parts of the ruins in which we had
been working. Eleven stones were lowered by means of
long ropes (hawsers) down the almost perpendicular rock of
the Acropolis, a height of about two hundred feet. Two
statues of this early sculpture were also found imbedded or
grouted into the centre of the wall with cement. The whole
of these sculptures are of a school hitherto unknown in
European museums.
By the 22nd of January so many stones were collected
that I thought it prudent to secure what we had, and half
the men went off with the boats for timber; one assisted in
sawing, and the seven that remained were employed in par-
tial excavations where united force was unnecessary.
On the 26th of January Captain Graves sent Mr. Hoskyn
from Macry to examine the river, and to report to him the
best mode of transporting the stones to the coast. About
this time I wrote the following letter to the Captain :—
Xanthus, 30th January, 1842.
"Dear Graves,—Mr. Hoskyn arrived here on the 26th instant. I
much regret that he or some capable officer was not sent sooner than a
month after our arrival. Had our wants been ascertained by him at
that time, or when I suggested them to you on the 10th of January,
communication might have been made with Malta, and the expedition
need not have been postponed to another season. I am sorry for the
continued expenses of our Cavasses, etc., as we are all unoccupied here,
carpenters alone being able to work at casing the marbles. Our work
of discovering and removing the objects for casing commenced on the
10th and ended on the 21st instant, all hands at work; since that time,
of course, nothing has been done by the men, nor will there be above a
day or two's work before we leave, although I think it probable the
carpenters will not be able to finish by the 1st of March, the time you
fixed for the Beacon to leave Macry. I again send a messenger for
nails, who had better wait for one or two thousand, which I hear can
be made in a day by the blacksmiths at Macry; but most probably you
tr
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
447
may have had some made, as the few (300) sent were not a day's supply.
The Isabella not having been able to land her goods during the last ten
days, we have also been without wood, but hope to begin work again as
soon as the weather is more fine.'
""
As it was tantalizing to seek about for objects which we
should not be able to dig out or remove, I now confined
myself for some time to re-copying, collating, and taking
impress casts on paper of the whole of the inscriptions in
the Lycian language on the stele noticed in my former
Journals*. From this position I had a view, at a short
distance, of the Harpy Tomb, and was amused to see that
the men under the Lieutenant were busily employed in con-
structing a tower within it, precisely as I had suggested, a
plan which had been deemed unfeasible: I had not heard a
word spoken on the subject since the Captain left orders
that neither it nor the Horse Tomb should be touched. I
never interfered with the undertaking, and only visited the
spot when the men had left their work. The whole of the
stones in four days were at our depôt for casing.
I must relate an anecdote in order to show how justice is
here administered among the people, and their feeling toward
us, a party sanctioned by the government. Ten stones were
removed from the district of the Harpy Tomb on the sledge
drawn by twenty men, making ten journeys across nearly a
quarter of a mile of growing corn, then about two or three
inches above the ground. This damage could not be avoided.
by us, but as soon as we had finished I had the fences re-
stored, and sent to the owner to request that he would state
the injury done, that I might repay him. He said that he
would call the head men of the neighbouring villages to-
gether and they should decide. On the following Friday
(their Sunday) a party of eight or nine Turks walked
*This inscription is published in Vol. I. of the Transactions of the
Royal Society of Literature.
I
448
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
thoughtfully over the land, stooping and examining the corn;
in the course of an hour they gave their report, that “tramp-
ling the corn down and the cutting off the blade with the
sledge had not destroyed the seed, and that if God sent
rain it would spring up again, and that no damage was done."
I was sorry for this decision, as I did not wish to have it
said that we had not repaid them something; I therefore
drew their attention to the furrow ploughed up by dragging
a stick of timber over the ground; after reconsideration
they assessed this damage at five piastres, about thirteen-
pence. I paid the owner three times that amount, and all
were satisfied.
The gunner informed me one morning at half-past eight
o'clock, that they were going to pull down the Horse Tomb.
I begged that he would delay for an hour, as I wished to
mark with lines and numbers the various cracks and stones
upon the middle story, and to map them accurately, as I felt
sure it would fall in pieces as soon as the weight of the top
was removed. This I did, and left the men to proceed with
this monument also, for the removal of which I had sug-
gested plans, differing altogether from those now adopted.
My feelings were the same as with respect to the Harpy
Tomb, and I did not interfere, except to request them to
clear away previously all stones from around, and afterwards
The means
to preserve any fragment which might fall.
adopted appeared to me to be more sailor-like than scientific;
the men placed slings and cords over the top, which pro-
bably weighed ten tons, and making blocks fast to the
neighbouring rocks, hauled the top off. As I anticipated,
the centre fell in pieces, but the sculptured parts did not
receive more injury than they probably would have done
from a more scientific operation. The whole may be easily
restored, and will again form one of the most elegant and
interesting monuments I have ever seen. The several parts
of this tomb are so heavy that it is necessary they should
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
449
be cut: I have therefore marked with black paint the lines
for the saw, in order that the sculpture should not be in-
jured. This will reduce the weight of the various parts so
that they may be packed in cases; I also did this with the
tomb, with lions resembling the Persepolitan sculpture.
Some of the men formed a party, taking with them port-
fires, to explore some arched vaults running beneath a huge
pile of building attributable to the Greek age: after pro-
ceeding about thirty yards, other passages branched off,
forming the crypt, or substructure of the halls above; all
these were dry and in good preservation. A Turkish short
sword inlaid with silver, a flask made of a small gourd and
half-filled with gunpowder, a pocket pistol with flint-lock,
much braiding and silk buttons, fragments of a black silk
handkerchief marked with blood, and the lower jaw-bone of
a man containing all the teeth sound, were found in one of
those passages. The jaw-bone, the only trace of the owner
of these treasures, was judged by our surgeon to have been
that of a negro. The pistol* was loaded with ball, and the
powder retained all its igneous properties. There can be
little doubt that wild beasts had dragged the probably dead
man into this their den, leaving only those things which,
had it been the work of a robber, would have been taken
away. We may infer from the sheathed sword and loaded
pistol that the man had not been called upon to defend him-
self, and that he had not been murdered for the sake of his
property. An iron spike with wooden handle, similar to an
instrument I have seen used by the Turks in agriculture,
was also found near the same place.
Provisions are here very cheap. Oxen or sheep were
killed and weighed to us at one piastre per oke, being 14 lb.
* On removing the rust from the pistol, which was of very common
manufacture, the name of Dover was found upon the lock. I find that
a salesman of cheap fire-arms of that name lived in London about sixty
years ago, which may give an idea of the date.
450
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
for a penny: wheaten bread made for us was the same price,
but we paid the carriage of it from Fornas, eight miles dis-
tant: the finest oranges from Rhodes were one para each,
equal to seventeen for a penny: woodcocks, wild-ducks, and
partridges were very abundant. Mahomet, a youth of
eighteen, the son of our landlady, received each week the
amount of our rent, which was generally acknowledged by
presents of cream, fruit, or game. I asked what his mother
would do with the money we had paid to her, and suggested
that they should increase their stock of cattle; but he said,
why should they? they had enough. I then proposed that
they should cultivate more land for corn. His reply was to
the same effect, "their stock of corn always lasted until the
return of the harvest." He then said that the money would
make a dowry for his sisters. At our departure his mother
was in tears, when she confessed that at first she was afraid
of us, but she now found that Franks were quite as good as
Turks, and hoped we should come to the country again.
We kept on admirable terms with the peasantry, and I be-
lieve our departure was a subject of regret to all. Our
English spades, pickaxes, and tools were much admired and
often borrowed by the people, but always punctually re-
turned*.
One of the prettiest sights I witnessed while at Xanthus
was caused by the novelty and use of our carpenter's grind-
stone; the peasantry came down for miles around to sharpen
their tools. This became troublesome to our workmen, and
the handle was taken off. The use of the stone then became
a favour, which I often granted in order to oblige them, and
to see the groups assembled around; each had his sword,
pruning-hook, axe, knife, or ploughshare in his hand, and
patiently awaited his turn at the stone. On leaving the
*At my request the tools, when the expedition was concluded, were
given to the Aga to distribute among the peasantry.
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
451
country I promised the people that I would send them one,
to be placed under the care of young Mahomet, for the use
of all the peasantry of the valley; and I hear from Malta
that my present was sent and highly appreciated. I have
never seen gritstone in that district of Asia Minor, and the
native limestone rocks are a poor substitute for the revolving
stone which they now possess.
While at Xanthus I had several European visitors. Pro-
fessor Schönbrun of Posen, one of five learned Prussians
who, at the instigation of their government or universities,
are carrying out the investigations of this country, remained
with me two days: at my suggestion he kindly examined
several points: he discovered that the monument seen by
me only at a distance, to the north of Cadyanda, had been
inscribed in the Lycian character, but was rendered illegible
by decay. He traced an ancient wall cutting across the
valley, about six miles above the city of Xanthus: this is
highly interesting, as it no doubt perfected the natural divi-
sion of the countries of the early inhabitants, the Troes and
Tramelæ, the former, which was the kingdom of Pandarus,
having Tlos and Pinara for its chief cities. The ruins at
the north-east end of the valley of Cassabar he found to be
those of the small Greek city of Arna; those near the coast
at Kakava, the city of Cyanæ. The city of Caunus he had
previously identified, on the straits connecting the bay or
lake of Koojez with the sea: this is in Caria. The Rev.
Mr. Daniell often came from the ship, making my hut his
home while visiting and sketching the neighbouring Lycian
cities. He discovered two inscriptions in the ruins at
Hoorahn, which I suggested might be found to be the ancient
Massicytus, giving it the name of Araxa. I had also visits
from Mr. Edward Forbes, the well-known naturalist, who
had been for the past year in Lycia, and Mr. Sanford, an
English gentleman, whose residence at Rhodes had been
prolonged for nearly a twelvemonth, solely attracted by the
452
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
He had
kindness and excellence of the Turkish character.
been studying the Turkish language and endeavouring to
repay the kindness of the people by suggesting improve-
ments in their agriculture and introducing to them potatoes
and other seeds. He speaks highly of the literary and well-
informed society of the leading people among the Turks.
I shall avoid giving any description of the sculptures,
which ere long will be better judged of in the British
Museum, but I shall recapitulate their localities. On the
Acropolis, which must have formed the city of the earliest
inhabitants, were found all the works of a peculiar eastern
character, the works of the Troes and of the Tramelæ.
The cemeteries of these people are marked as theirs, by
their formation, by being generally cut in the rock, by their
sculpture, and the characters of the inscriptions; these
tombs are principally in the rocky cliffs to the south-east.
The city, built in the manner of the Greeks, seems to have
been added to that of the early people, but its style of build-
ing does not appear to have extended over the old Acropolis.
In this Greek-built district the sculpture and inscriptions
are Greek; and from the subjects of the bas-reliefs, the place
must have contained buildings with friezes, representing
the capture of the early city-so accurately illustrating
the description given in Herodotus, that I could almost
fancy that the neighbouring historian had written his history
from this frieze, commemorating an event which happened
about a century before his era. The cemeteries of this
people are very extensive, spreading for two miles towards
the south-east of the city, and also on the western side of
the river. All these are sarcophagi, bearing Greek inscrip-
tions. These cities, we read*, were conquered by Brutus,
and the description of the capture is fully borne out by the
present position of the walls. The Roman conqueror ap-
pears to have destroyed most of the buildings of the city,
*Plutarch's Life of Brutus.
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
453
which must have been crowded with temples and public
edifices. The materials of these, with reversed capitals,
cornices, inscriptions, and even statues, now form walls of
fortification to all the surrounding heights, and mostly built
with cement: these range over an extent of some miles in
circuit. I have found no Roman tombs or inscriptions, nor
have I seen any sculpture or art of that people, excepting
the piling together of walls.
The next conquest appears to have been the effort of
nature; evident marks of destruction and disjointing by the
shocks of earthquakes are visible. This was probably either
at the period of the destruction of the Colossus of Rhodes
(B.C. 214), or at the time mentioned by Tacitus (A.D. 17).
A Turkish khan, probably used half a century ago, has been
constructed amidst the ruins: it has fallen to decay, and the
present inhabitants of the district live in huts and tents
scattered around, but not amidst the ruins of the ancient
city.
At the latter end of February we were making prepara-
tions for removing to the coast, to await the arrival of the
ship on the 1st of March. My great care was the finishing
the cases, which were now very nearly completed. I proposed
leaving them in charge of the Aga of Fornas until the arrival
of some English ship, and therefore numbered and marked
each case, corresponding with my descriptive catalogue: I
also made two lists, showing the position of the eighty-two
cases, one for the Aga, and the other for the Pasha at Rhodes.
I sent to the Aga the following request; that he should take
charge of the cases, and employ such guard as he saw fit, and
that I would pay him any expenses incurred. After every
mark of friendly reception of my message, and due considera-
tion, he declined taking them under his charge, saying, that
if it was a hundred or a thousand pounds he would take
charge of it, because if lost he could replace, or if injured
by the people he would tax them to restore the amount,--
454
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES,
but how could he replace such stones as those? His reason-
ing was too simple and powerful for me to urge him further.
I gave the list to the Pasha at Rhodes, who sent two men
over to protect them, but only held himself responsible for
the conduct of the men, not for the safety of the marbles.
We are so accustomed to receive equivalents in insurance,
that we feel no scruples in holding ourselves responsible for
almost anything.
Early on the morning of the 3rd of March we were all on
board the Beacon ship, and arrived at Rhodes on the 5th. A
few hours sufficed for all we had to do with the authorities,
and we sailed on for Malta. I received letters at Rhodes
from the Trustees of the British Museum, very handsomely
acknowledging my services in obtaining the firman from
Constantinople, and sanctioning any expenses I might have
incurred on that occasion.
On the 14th of March we arrived at Malta, bearing the
Captain's report to the Admiral: had this been sent two
months before, we might by this time have been there with
all the stones on board, or, by remaining a month later, have
in all probability found double the number of treasures.
I received every possible attention from the authorities at
Malta. Admiral Sir Thomas Mason, commander-in-chief,
Admiral Sir John Lewis, and Major Yule of the Engineers,
almost daily called upon or corresponded with me in laza-
retto, obtaining all the information I could give to forward
a fresh expedition to bring away the cases. I was applied
to for the accurate measurement of each stone, in order
that the officers of Engineers should calculate the weight:
the result of which was that the eighty-two cases together
weighed 80 tons, the three largest stones weighing 2 tons
1 cwt. each.
C
Admiral Sir Edward Owen arrived to take the chief com-
mand on the 4th of April, and immediately requested an in-
terview with Captain Graves and myself: when the Admiral
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
455
said to Captain Graves, "I understand that it is your wish
to leave this duty and continue your survey;" the Captain
replied, "It is, Sir;" thus voluntarily giving up the expedi-
tion into the hands of others.
Having done all I could in instructing the officers about
to be employed, I left Malta on the 6th of April for Mar-
seilles in the French steam-packet. Before leaving I under-
stood that the expedition would start in two or three days.
I urged the necessity, in my letter to the Admiral, as well as
verbally, that no time should be lost; as the season, from
my experience of the climate, would be too hot, and as I
feared if the expedition were there after the middle of May
the waters from the melting snows would have ceased to fill
the river, which would probably become too shallow for navi-
gation. I regret to say that the Medea steam-ship, appointed
for the service, did not leave Malta until the 28th of April,
and then sailed to Athens, not arriving at Xanthus until the
13th of May, the time at which all the work should have been
accomplished. It was the 8th of June before the party left
the coast. At this season the Turks had put the valley under
irrigation, and had themselves retired to their summer farms
in the Yeeilassies of the mountains. Noxious evaporation
and malaria were the consequence, and fever appeared among
the seamen on board the Monarch at anchor off the coast.
The stone-sawyers taken from Malta to divide the heavy
stones of the Horse Tomb had several weeks' work before
them; it was impossible to allow the sailors to remain in the
country, therefore all sailed away, bringing seventy-eight of
the cases, and leaving the Horse Tomb for another season.
The striking beauty of this monument will be the guarantee
for its arriving where art is appreciated.
The seventy-eight cases were safely deposited at Malta by
the end of June, and were brought to England in H.M. ship
Cambridge in December.
I cannot close this account without adding the very flat-
456
THE XANTHIAN MARBLES.
tering resolution of the Trustees of the British Museum,
passed May 14th, soon after my arrival in England.
tr
'May 14th, 1842.
“His Grace the Archbishop of Canterbury in the Chair.
[After ordering the repayment of the sums which I ad-
vanced] It was resolved:
"That the Trustees desire to express their sense of Mr.
Fellows's public spirit in voluntarily undertaking to lend to
so distant an expedition the assistance of his local knowledge
and personal co-operation; and that they have viewed with
great satisfaction the decision and energy evinced by Mr.
Fellows in proceeding from Smyrna to Constantinople and
obtaining the necessary authority for the removal of the
marbles, as well as his judicious directions at Xanthus, by
which the most desirable of the valuable monuments of
antiquity, formerly brought to light by him, together with
several others of scarcely less interest now for the first time
discovered and excavated, have been placed in safety, and,
as the Trustees have every reason to hope, secured for the
National Museum.
(Signed)
"J. FORSHALL, Secretary."
ACCOUNT
OF THE
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THE
IONIC TROPHY MONUMENT
AT XANTHUS.
We learn from Herodotus* that the people called by the
Greeks Lycians were by the early inhabitants of the coun-
try known by the name of Termelæ, and that even in the
time of that historian, 450 B.C., the people were called Ter-
milians by their neighbours. Other ancient authors† call
them Termila and Tramilæ. The name of Lycia was applied
by the Greeks to the country, and that of Xanthus desig-
nated the chief city; but both names seem to have been un-
known to the people of the country. In the numerous in-
scriptions found on the monuments, the chief city is called
Arina‡, and the country Tramelæ§. To this earliest people
are to be attributed the rock-tombs, which are of the same
succession of dates as the detached architectural monu-
ments, the sculpture, and the language,—all characterized as
* Lib. i. cap. 173; lib. vii. cap. 92.
+ Stephanus Byzantinus.
+ Ibid.
§ This name is seen in almost every inscription in the early lan-
guage.
x 2
460
IONIC TROPHY MONUMENT.
peculiar to this country; the coins, sculptured legends, and
mythology all belong to the same people. These are the
earliest works seen in the country*.
The ancient city of Arina stood principally upon a bold
rock rising abruptly from the river Xanthus. It is upon
this Acropolis that we find exclusively the ruins of the monu-
ments of the early inhabitants. The walls, the towers, the
peculiar stelet, the gothic-shaped tombs, and tombs sculp-
tured to imitate wood-work, are all still to be seen on this
site. It is surprising, and highly interesting, that we should
have been made so well acquainted with the appearance,
character, and architecture of the cities of this early people,
by the numerous views of the ancient cities of Pinara, Tlos,
and even of Arina or Xanthus itself, sculptured in bas-relief;
from the sculpture we also learn the costume—the loose
robe, the beard, the short sword, the bow-case, the construc-
tion of their chariots and peculiar trappings of their horses;
we have also presented to us their poetic legends, recorded
in the poems of Homer, and the often-repeated mythological
allusions in the funereal ceremonies. A knowledge of the
peculiarities of this people, obtained from a close examina-
tion of their works, will throw much light upon the subject
of these pages.
Early in the reign of Cyrus the Great, and during his
conquest of the northern provinces of Asia Minor, his ge-
neral Harpagus was employed in subduing Ionia and the
southern provinces. Having conquered the maritime cities.
of Ionia, Harpagus landed at Halicarnassus, and proceeded
* The rocks of Lycia are scaglia or Apennine limestone, extremely
hard and flinty, and difficult to cut; but when sculptured they retain
a sharp edge for an interminable period. Many of the earliest sculp-
tures retain their painted surface to the present day. It is therefore im-
possible to conceive the works of a former people passing entirely away
when those of twenty-five centuries ago appear as of yesterday.
+ See page 297.
IONIC TROPHY MONUMENT.
461
to attack the Pedassians*, who, in their fortified city, situ-
ated at the foot of Mount Lida, were the only Carians that
opposed him they at length submitted, and Harpagus,
having incorporated the Ionians, Æolians, and Carians with
his forces, proceeded against the Lycians. I shall here
quote the words of Herodotust:-
When Harpagus led his army towards Xanthus, the Ly-
cians boldly advanced to meet him, and, though inferior in
number, behaved with the greatest bravery. Being defeated,
and pursued into their city, they collected their wives, chil
dren, and valuable effects into the citadel, and there con-
sumed the whole in one immense fire. They afterwards,
uniting themselves under the most solemn curses, made a
private sally upon the enemy, and were every man put to
death. Of those who now inhabit Lycia, calling themselves
Xanthians, the whole are foreigners, eighty families ex-
cepted; these survived the calamity of their country, being
at that time absent on some foreign expedition. Thus Xan-
thus fell into the hands of Harpagus, as also did Caunus,
whose people imitated, almost in every respect, the example
of the Lycians." This was B.C. 547.
I shall now proceed to the immediate subject of these
pages. In my travels in the spring of 1838 I discovered
the city of Xanthus, the ancient Arina, the capital of Lycia.
* On my first arrival at the large town of Moolah, noticed in my
Journal of 1838, I approached it from the south-east, having laid down
my track over a great extent of unmapped country. My position thus
obtained for the town, being more than thirty miles from the coast, was
declared by those most learned in ancient geography to be too far inland
for the city of Pedassus, as that was known to be but six miles from
the coast. The recent coast surveys, having carried the Gulf of Cnidus
twenty-five miles further inland to the eastward, confirm the position I
laid down for Moolah, and my idea of its being the ancient Pedassus,
situated on the western termination of the range of Mount Cadmus, the
last mountain of which range must have been Mount Lida.
Beloe's Translation, lib. i, cap. 176.
:
462
IONIC TROPHY MONUMENT.
To the east of this city*, upon a prominent rock about half
a mile from the Acropolis, I found the base of an important
structure formed of massive blocks of scaglia, the stone of
the country, each weighing from six to ten tons; this base
measured thirty-three feet in length by twenty-two in width :
the accompanying view may give a better idea of its position,
-one end facing the city conquered by Harpagus and his
followers, the other facing nearly due east. Amidst the
thicket of vegetation surrounding this base, I was led by a
Turk to see the end of a slab of white marble, upon which
were sculptured some small figures in procession. This was
the only trace of any fallen ruin at that time visible, and I
have mentioned it in a former part of this work†, at the same
time suggesting that a temple must formerly have occupied
this cliff. My further researches in Lycia in 1839, and again
in 1842 and 1843, aided by the powers of the Government,
brought to light the whole ruins of the Monument which
had surmounted the existing base.
After puzzling for a long time over the fragments, and
reasoning upon various monuments in other parts of Asia
Minor, I piled together the Ionic building represented in
the frontispiece to these pages, which is drawn from the
model presented by me to the British Museum. My reasons
for this reconstruction I shall give in detail in the latter part
of this account, not wishing here to interrupt the narrative.
I
may
observe that all the fragments excavated from around
the base are required for this reconstruction, and that two
whole stones only are wanting to complete the Monument;
on drawing together these fragments, no other sculpture of
similar art or age is found amidst the ruins of this city, all
the rest being either the peculiar art of the early inhabitants,
* A ground-plan of the city is published in my Xanthian Marbles,'
1843.
+ See page 174.
IONIC TROPHY MONUMENT.
463
or the well-known sculpture of the imperial Roman and the
Christian era.
In order to carry out the ideas which suggest themselves
to me in considering this Monument, I shall assume posi-
tions perhaps too bold for the archæologist; they must
however be judged with a regard to the unchanging nature
of mankind, and the study of the evidence given in the
sequel.
The first impression in viewing this Monument in Lycia,
is its being composed in a style and adorned by a character
of art foreign to that country. The marble is also foreign,
probably from Paros: it is the only building of the kind I
have seen in Lycia. From my observations and sketches
during previous travels, I at once recognized the peculiar
form of its massive pedestal, surmounted by a temple-like
structure, as similar to those which I have only seen in Caria
in the ancient cities of Alinda, Alabanda, and Mylasa. The
style of architecture is well known as that of Ionia, the same

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IONIC TROPHY MONUMENT.

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country. The sculpture, though evidently earlier, is of the
same school as the remains of the tomb of Mausolus (353 B.C.)
from Halicarnassus, now in the British Museum. The build-
ing has been erected as a trophy and tomb: it cannot have
been a temple, for in that case the bands of sculpture would
have been cut into by a flight of steps, and the statues be-
tween the columns would prevent access. The cella will
also be seen to be a tomb.
IONIC TROPHY MONUMENT.
465
There is no site at Xanthus so well suited for a trophy,
commanding the conquered city, as this. It has a fine view
of the Acropolis of the Xanthians, from which it is separated
by a ravine: the cliff upon which the trophy is placed ap-
pears isolated, and affords space for this Monument alone.
The existing base, as I have stated, is constructed of massive
stones, and may be of a very early date: it resembles the
works of the earliest monuments in the country. In the
centre of one end of the superstructure, the end facing the
ancient city, I conceive the whole history of the monument
to be told. We see on two stones a continued view of an
ancient city, apparently depopulated, a sentinel only being
seen on each of the gate-towers. In this represented city I
at once recognize the walls and battlements of a Lycian for-
tification, and within the walls is a stele, one of those monu-
ments almost peculiar to the city of Xanthus, where four
are still standing. Upon the stele, seen over the walls, is
placed an emblem-a sphinx seated between two lions. At
the foot of one of these steles, still existing within the walls,
I found a seat formed by two lions, which, from the tenon
under it and the mortise upon the capstone of the stele,
must evidently have fallen from it. The walls of this city
are represented as surmounting a rock. These combined
circumstances leave no doubt in my mind that the city re-
presented is the Acropolis of Xanthus.
At the gates, and upon the centre stone of the frieze, is
an oriental chief, dressed in a Persian costume, and seated
upon a Persian throne. Over his head is held by an un-
armed attendant an umbrella, the emblem of royalty. Behind
his throne is a body-guard of soldiers, in Ionian costume.
Before the king, who must be Harpagus, are two unarmed,
loose-robed, bearded men, apparently pleading before the
chief, whose uplifted arm and general attitude indicate the
despotic feeling of a conqueror. Behind these suppliants
* One other is seen thrown down at Pinara.
x 3
466
IONIC TROPHY MONUMENT.
are assembled the leaders of the Lycians in quiescent atti-
tudes; differing in this respect from the sculptures upon
any other stones, excepting those used to represent the scene
described at this end of the monument; and each of these
stones were found at this, the west end of the base. But
we must read this sculptured history more systematically.
On all the four sides of the lower and larger frieze we find
a contest between parties, some on foot, and others on horse-
back; in many figures are recognized the loose-robed, bearded
Lycians, with their peculiar arms, their bow-cases, and the
leaders or heralds with curtained shields. This I conceive
to represent the brave resistance in the plains recorded by
Herodotus; it is evident that the Lycians are generally the
vanquished. I shall not here dwell upon the style of art in
this frieze, but follow the history.
Upon the smaller and higher sculptured frieze on the
south side-for in this frieze each side forms a distinct pic-
ture—we find groups of bearded soldiers hastening forwards;
there is a tree, probably to signify the flight as through a
forest; then a jaded horse, clothed with an oriental saddle,
and led by a chief in oriental Phrygian cap. The armed
soldiers are seen passing behind a bastion, with hands up-
lifted, and in a supplicating attitude, asking refuge within
the city, whose portal is guarded by a sentinel. A man is
leaning over the tower, evidently inquiring their business.
The next stone contains a crowded city, with manned walls;
within these are embattled towers, where females are seen
with extended arms: the continuing stone shows the men
at the walls, each hurling a stone at assailants at an opposite
gate, whence two men, one with the curtained shield of a
leader, are making a sally upon assailants in the Ionic Greek
costume.
A second picture at the east end represents the mode of
attack on another gate of the city. A group of loose-robed,
bearded, unarmed, and bare-headed peasants, tied together,
IONIC TROPHY MONUMENT.
467
are led away captive. These, I think it probable, were spies,
or perhaps peasants who had been made to point out a
weakly defended part of the city, for which we have prece-
dents at the taking of Sardis and other sieges. They are at
all events being led away prisoners from the city, while the
Ionians are hastening stealthily, and led on by signs from
their leaders, toward the walls of the town. On approaching
they crouch down and take off their shoes; a ladder is placed
against the gate-tower, and held with ropes by two men
stationed beneath. The Ionian soldiers are seen ascending
cautiously and with bare feet, and one of them has arrived
at the top of the gates. The architecture of the city again
shows a Lycian fortification, and from the panelled windows.
are seen several heads of the surprised and unarmed people.
The north side represents a varied and confused scene, pro-
bably the end of a battle after the sally from the city: one
group, including a wounded hero led away by a youth, is
extremely interesting and beautiful; several figures are seen
pointing, as if giving commands, and the combatants are
turned and engaged in different directions, not advancing
in order, as seen upon the other sides. One figure is carry-
ing a stool or throne, and another an umbrella inclined over
his shoulder. This may represent the removal of the em-
blems of Persian royalty into the conquered city. The fourth
and last side facing the west shows the conquered city, at
the gate of which Harpagus is seated upon a throne, and
canopied by the royal umbrella, as before described.
For many suggestions in explanation of the next portion
of the structure, I am indebted to a learned and ingenious
paper read before the Royal Society of Antiquaries in Lon-
don, in February 1848, by my friend Mr. Benjamin Gibson
of Rome. He tells us that ten cities of Ionia supplied Har-
pagus with troops. Here we have between the columns
ten statues, apparently of the same female figure,—perhaps
Venus, the popular deity of Ionia; each of these statues is
<<
468
IONIC TROPHY MONUMENT.
borne up by an emblem beneath its feet; and these emblems
Mr. Gibson detects as being the same as those seen on the
coins of the maritime cities of Ionia,―the crab of Cos, the
dove of Cnidus, the snake of Miletus, the dolphin of Myrina,
the phoca of Phocæa, and the shell of Pyrnus. The other
statues are too much mutilated for us to determine their
emblems. The four lions at the angles are supposed to re-
present the whole country of the Milesians. We thus have
registered, as it were, the arms of the different cities engaged
in this conquest, surmounted by the tutelary deity of the
country.
On the sculptured architrave of one end is seen a proces-
sion carrying offerings usually made by the Greeks, while
at the other end is a procession of figures in the loose
trowsers worn by the Persians, and carrying the offerings
peculiar to that nation. On one side is a hunting-scene,
upon the other a battle of equestrians. We have only half
the tympanum of the west end, containing beautifully
sculptured figures on foot, who have contended with others
on horseback: the fore-leg of the horse is seen crossing the
shield of the foremost figure. On the tympanum at the
east end we have a male and female deity seated opposite to
each other, with their attendants, and in the angle a crouch-
ing dog. Surmounting the apex of this pediment is a group
of three boys, which Mr. Gibson suggests may represent
Cares, Lydus, and Mysus, the legendary founders of the
provinces of Caria, Lydia, and Mysia, thus giving nation-
ality to the whole Monument. The frieze of the cella re-
presents the usual sacrifices and funereal feasts of the
Greeks, but none of those ceremonies sculptured on so
many of the Lycian tombs.
Had Herodotus of Halicarnassus sought the most na-
tural and legitimate source for this part of his history, he
could not have done better than visit and describe the scene
represented upon this Monument; and I do not think it
IONIC TROPHY MONUMENT.
469
improbable that we have in Herodotus a recital of the events
recorded in these friezes, rather than in the latter an illus-
tration of the historian: we must bear in mind that the
conquest was made about a hundred years before the time
of Herodotus.
When I consider the situation, the foreign character, the
evident object, and the graphic detail of all the parts of this
Monument, the represented architecture, costume, mode of
attack, almost the portraiture of the people, all apparently
fresh in the mind of the sculptor, and more particularly the
unchanging character of human nature, ever prone to flat-
ter the feelings and vanity of the living,—I cannot but
attribute the erection of this structure to the followers of
Harpagus, commemorating his victory and serving as a tomb
for his heroes: its erection during the lifetime of some of
the conquerors would probably not be later than 500 B.C.
I shall continue the history of this Monument from obser-
vation and reasoning, and again refer the reader to the sequel
for my authority.
After its conquest, Xanthus was occupied, I believe, by a
people who continued the use of the same architecture and
language as their predecessors; and there is no trace, ex-
cept in this Monument, of the continued residence of an
Ionic Greek population,-scarcely a Greek inscription re-
ferable to an earlier date than the age of Alexander (355
B.C.). I find however almost continuous monuments, in-
scriptions, and coins in the Lycian art down to that age,-
from the tomb of the son of Harpagus, to the decree of
Pixodarus, king of Caria, 340 B.C.
S
I find no work of art remaining at Xanthus, referable to
the next two centuries: the well-known Greek coins of the
Lycian league, found so abundantly in the other cities of
Lycia, are not met with here; but we have the coins of
Claudius, Trajan, the Antonines, Commodus, Severus, Gor-
dian, Aurelian, Constantine, and Julian. I therefore believe
470
IONIC TROPHY MONUMENT.
Xanthus to have been but a small city, scarcely issuing coins
for a period of several centuries, while the other cities of
Lycia seem to have risen into greater importance. A little
before the Christian æra, Xanthus seems to have revived
under the auspices of Roman protection, and to about the
time of Vespasian (A.D. 80) I attribute many of its most
important buildings, the materials of the ruins of which are
still found in abundance. During the next three centuries
Xanthus became a great Christian city. Many buildings of
the time of Vespasian seem to have been pulled to pieces.
and reconstructed for other purposes: the seats of the
theatre are piled up into walls and bastions, and for the first
time united with cement. An extended city is walled in
with blocks and pedestals, the work of the Greeks, inscribed
in honour of their victors in the Roman games. Numerous
churches and religious establishments are built of the same
materials. I have seen no stones re-worked by this later
people; but columns and doorways, varying in dimensions,
are used in the construction of the same Christian church.
The tombs of this age seem to have been more respected,
and still remain in several directions near the city. This
age of architectural transformation continued until the fifth
century of our æra, when we find Xanthus still celebrated
for its schools*.
At this period our Trophy Monument stood in ruins upon
its cliff, with the statues mutilated by the surrounding ico-
noclast inhabitants; the heads were broken from the statues,
the roof had fallen in, the cella mostly removed, but the
pediments and columns were standing. Mr. W. W. Lloyd+
ingeniously suggests that it was probably seen in this state
by Proclus, A.D. 412, and supposes that Proclus describes
the sculptures of the eastern pediment. At this time there
were a number of small houses, occupied by Christians, at
* Proclus. + Xanthian Marbles,' W. W. Lloyd, 1845, p. 12.
IONIC TROPHY MONUMENT.
471
the foot of the cliff upon which the Trophy Monument
stood: into some of the walls around these houses the stones
of the cella were built, but the temple-like Monument still
towered above them. At this period an unforeseen and
awful visitation awaited this and many neighbouring cities
of Asia Minor: earthquakes, shaking even the massive
monuments of the early Lycians, threw down and destroyed
every building of the Greeks and Christians, and the whole
city of Xanthus lay in ruins; not a marble fragment of the
superstructure described in these pages remained upon its
base, and the ruins buried the houses below; these ruins
have perhaps never been visited, certainly they were never
moved, until I discovered them in 1838.
I feel that this is a daring and perhaps incautious sketch,
involving many highly important points in history and in the
history of Art; but I am anxious to register my evidence,
derived from observation on the spot, and to court discussion
upon the various subjects involved in the inquiry. If my
position be admitted, the evident similarity of the sculpture
of many groups in the larger frieze, as well as in the treat-
ment of the statues, to the Athenian and Phygalian sculp-
tures, must convict these later workmen of plagiarism, and,
as hinted by Pausanias, lead us to suppose that Pericles,
wishing to adorn Athens, sent to Asia Minor for workmen.
This Monument would indicate the employment of Ionians
as the designers of the finest of Athenian works.
472
FURTHER DETAILS RESPECTING
THE TROPHY MONUMENT.
THE following pages are extracted from a paper presented,
with the model of the Monument, to the Trustees of the
British Museum in May 1845*.
"The stoa, or base of the Monument shown in the view
upon the pedestal of the model, the site of which has been
already described in my paper, given in to the Museum, on
the Xanthian Expedition, consisted of masses of scaglia,
the stone of the country, weighing from six to ten tons
each; these so far remain in situ, that we ascertain the pre-
cise size of the base to have been thirty-three feet long by
twenty-two feet wide: the stones of the upper course now
remaining are set-in three inches, reducing the area to 32.6
by 21.6; this supplies us with the form of the Monument
and the maximum limit of its scale. I must mention that
no other base is to be found near, and that the sculptures
from their position must all have fallen from this by one
sudden convulsion; the small fragments lying with the slabs
from which they have been chipped, and the bronze ties,
run-in with lead, still found in the blocks of marble.
"I must now refer to the ground-plan upon the other side
of the pedestal, showing the fallen sculptures and their posi-
* In giving these pages to the press, some slight verbal alterations
have been made, in order to render the statement more clear.
IONIC TROPHY MONUMENT.
473
tion as exposed by excavation: the reasonings from this are
also borne out by the position of the unsculptured fragments
which are not noticed in this plan.
"In viewing this plan, the first striking feature is the
presence of four distinct friezes or bands of sculpture, each
having right-angle stones with the bas-reliefs upon the ex-
terior. To place these all upon one small building appeared
at first impossible, but their position showed that they had
fallen pell-mell, and I had simply the fact to deal with, with-
out regard to precedent: the width of these friezes respec-
tively was three feet three inches, two feet, one foot seven
inches, and one foot five inches; the two former being de-
cidedly too wide and heavy to have been supported by the
fluted columns, only one foot two inches in diameter, found
amongst them.
"My first experiment was cutting, to a scale, pieces of
wood resembling each part of the friezes. I commenced by
what I have called, from the subject of the bas-reliefs, the
City Frieze, two feet wide: of this I had the four corner-
stones, and on placing them I observed that the subject of
the sculptures varied on each side, suddenly changing at the
angles and forming four distinct views, each side complete
in itself: the stones are of two lengths, four feet eight
inches and four feet three inches, or varying slightly from
this. After shifting these stones repeatedly, I succeeded in
arranging them in a parallelogram, nineteen feet nine inches
wide and twenty-eight feet long, when the view on each side
became complete in itself, one end representing quiescent
objects, none of the stones of which could be used in the
tumults seen on the other sides: this gave me confidence in
my arrangement, which was entirely confirmed by consider-
ing that, if I were called upon to use one more of even the
smallest stones, the frieze must have been too large for the
base upon which it certainly stood: I thus learned that I
possessed the whole, and at once obtained a girth or band
474
IONIC TROPHY MONUMENT.
giving me the exact size of the building. I proceeded with
the larger frieze, and by careful combination, aided by three
of the corner-stones, I arranged a parallelogram precisely
the size of the former: in this frieze one of the angles and
one of the side-stones are wanting; I have therefore sup-
plied their places by stones of a similar size to those we
possess, thus taking a liberty which makes this band less
valuable as an evidence of the size of my building than the
former; but abundant proof of this will be repeated when
I come to the superstructure. From the nature of the
subject in the bas-reliefs upon this frieze, one stone is not
so evidently united with the other as in the former frieze.
"I next observed a cornice composed of blocks of egg-
moulding, on the upper surface of which were the marks of
columns and holes for the plinths of statues or objects placed
alternately with the columns; the depth and singular forms.
of these cuttings corresponded with the plinths under the
statues lying around. Although prepossessed with the
opinion that this description of cornice should be supported
by columns, instead of itself forming a base for them to
stand upon, I yielded to facts, and had long to consider how
to pile these into a single building.
CC
Thinking over my various sketches made in other parts
of Asia Minor, I observed those of the monuments of a
city in the north of Caria, which I discovered to be the
ancient Alinda; here I found large pedestals and evident
marks of their having had superstructures. At Mylasa,
twenty-five miles distant, a pedestal of similar construction
has its superstructure remaining; and again, at Alinda, is
one on a scale nearly as large as the Monument now under
consideration. These are all finished with handsome broad
cornices, not a fragment of which architectural member is
found in the ruins at Xanthus. It occurred to me that the
two large friezes might supply this deficiency, and by placing
them upon the given base, always keeping in mind the
IONIC TROPHY MONUMENT.
475
larger pedestal at Alinda as my guide for proportions, I
produced, by adding the egg-moulding (a depth of one foot
two inches) to the two-foot frieze, a harmony of proportion
in the width of the two cornices which I do not think un-
pleasing. With regard to the blank stones placed between
the friezes I am not quite confident, and am in some degree
guided by the common remarks of the sailors, who, after
having worked for some time to get out a block of marble,
which resembled in every respect the large sculptured frieze,
reported, 'that it was again a blank, and they thought we
had two blanks to one prize.' I myself think that the plain
blocks exceeded in number the sculptured ones; and from
their being the most serviceable to the wants of the suc-
ceeding inhabitants, they are the more likely to have been
diminished in number; the number cannot have been in-
creased. By the introduction of two courses I have the
proportions of my type at Alinda, and thus is formed a
pedestal with unbroken bands of frieze, which therefore
cannot have had any approach by steps; nor do I conceive
it possible that the frieze would have been abruptly broken
through by a doorway. I mention this, as the vacant space
of one stone may be supposed to have been left to form a
doorway; but we have, I think, fragments even of this
sculptured stone. The following argument however is in my
opinion conclusive on this point. In the view of the base,
massive stones are seen still remaining above the level of
the upper course upon which we place the friezes. Time
and Turks, and from my own experience I must add English
sailors, roll down such stones, but these agents never raise
them up; the pile has no doubt been higher, but surely not
lower than at present. Again, each of the stones of the
friezes used are left rough within, and not squared at the
inner angles; while the other friezes, of which we shall
speak hereafter, are finished inside with a smooth surface
and moulding; I therefore conclude that this pedestal was
476
IONIC TROPHY MONUMENT.
solid, and thus adapted to support the structure we are about
to place upon it.
"I have stated that upon the upper side of the stones of
the cornice of egg-moulding are seen the marks of alternate
statues and columns. From a corner-stone of this we ob-
tain the exact position of the base of the column upon it,
and are enabled to measure the space between the columns,
thus ascertaining the intercolumniation. Having the bases
and capitals of the columns, it is easy to raise the building
as high as the architrave. At this stage I observed that the
next frieze or sculptured architrave, having both the inner
and outer sides finished with a cornice, was composed of four
distinct subjects: one a battle, of which we have four stones;
another a hunting-scene, also of four stones; a third, repre-
senting a Persian offering, consisting of three stones only,
the figures being half upon one stone and half upon the
adjoining one, and each of these showing a groove or cutting
on the lower edge, ceasing abruptly nine inches from the
ends, and thus forming a square solid bed of eighteen inches
to rest upon the capital of the column beneath; there were
three more stones of a similar form, the bas-reliefs repre-
senting a Greek offering. These again give the interco-
lumniation, which agrees with that of the bases. The length
of the stones requiring support at their junction also fixes.
the number of columns upon the ends and sides.
"In the excavations we found seven regular Ionic capitals,
and only a fragment of one with a horn or volute projecting
from the angle; this one necessarily implies the existence of
four, making eleven out of fourteen required for the model :
eleven would be too many for the porticoes only, and I have
therefore placed columns at the sides, concluding that the three
capitals are missing. The next stage of our building is not a
matter of doubt, but of unaccountable singularity: we have
only two small fragments of one or two of the dentils which
must have surrounded this part of the Monument; the marks
IONIC TROPHY MONUMENT.
477
made by the dentils on the under side of the cornice which
rested on them is the evidence upon which I found my in-
troduction of them: above this portion of the cornice is its
crowning member, having lions' heads to spout the water
from the gutter within. The angle-stone of this is impor-
tant as it shows upon its back the inclination and width of
three successive tiles, which were of white marble, and in
this case of the same piece as the inclining cornice of the pe-
diment: near the lower part is also seen the cutting to re-
ceive the pedestal of a statue which stood at the angle, the
acroteria. Another stone of this cornice is equally impor-
tant as showing the angle of the pediment; it formed the
keystone or saddle, and had upon it the hollow to receive the
pedestal of a statue on the apex of the pediment. The ridge-
tiles of marble apparently covering the junction of the flat
tiles and the crowning ornament upon the ridge of the roof,
with the dipping ridge-tiles projecting from its opposite sides,
complete the covering of the Monument. We found be
neath each end the sculptured tympana, the angles of which,
carried out, exactly fill the pediments, and confirm the di-
mensions afforded by the various friezes and the standing
base.
"We have still our frieze left, with four sculptured angles,
the subject of the bas-reliefs representing the funereal cere-
monies. One stone of this, eight feet nine inches long, form-
ing with the sculptured angle of the side-stone a length of
nine feet six inches, I place as the frieze of one end of the
cella of the Monument, resting the two ends upon the capi-
tals of pilasters, which from their form must have been those of
the antæ of a cella: of these I found three. Of the side-stones
of the frieze I contrive suitable subjects, guided by the sculp-
tures, and form lengths of fifteen feet, making a parallelogram
fifteen feet by nine feet six inches. Placing this in the
centre of the building, I find that the stones of my ceil-
ing, each with two panels or coffers, exactly reach from the
478
IONIC TROPHY MONUMENT.
architrave to the cella, resting upon each of the friezes; this
again confirms my arrangement. The entrances to the cella
-in this case probably a sepulchre-are shown by the dis-
covery of a stone of this form :


-----
We also found an ornament or mantling which was over a
doorway. I must remark that we saw only a very small
portion of the plain stones required to form the walls of the
cella; but being plain and not very large, they would have
been, as before observed, more desirable for the use of suc-
ceeding inhabitants. We have fragments of the bases of the
pilasters.
-
"The building being now erected, I proceeded to the ar-
rangement of the statues, for which I had no theory, but
began by placing each above the position in which I found
it in the earth. The statues are of two sizes: the smaller, of
which we have six, from their attitudes as well as their lying
at both ends of the building, had evidently fallen from the top
of the pediment; and on examination I observed that they
were weather-beaten all round, showing that they had filled an
exposed position. I can have no doubt of the correctness of
this arrangement. The next figures are lions, one of which
had fallen from either angle of the west end: I replaced them
in that position between the columns, and found that their
IONIC TROPHY MONUMENT.
479
projecting noses alone have been subjected to the corroding
action of the weather, and that their bodies within the colon-
nades are uninjured. At the east end I found the paws of
one lion and the flanks of another, which doubtless filled the
spaces corresponding with the western end. I then raised
the several statues to the vacant spaces between the columns
nearest to them, and again found that those parts alone of
the bodies and drapery which would have projected from be-
tween the columns show the effect of the rain and wind, the
rest of the figures retaining the smooth surface of the marble.
Each of these statues is borne by an emblematic animal,
and the drapery is blown violently by the wind. The Monu-
ment now put together requires but two whole stones to
complete the larger frieze, and one to complete the west tym-
panum. We should then have the whole of the four friezes,
the pediments and necessary architectural members, and
every niche and pedestal for the reception of statues occu-
pied by the fragmental representation of such statue."
My reasons for placing the pavement around the Monu-
ment at the level represented, concealing a considerable
portion of the massive base now exposed, are the follow-
ing:
At the assumed level, in excavating on the north side, we
ceased to find the fallen fragments of the building, and soon
afterwards lost all trace of the chips of broken marble: we
then came to a dark-coloured native earth, on the surface of
which we found several bronze and bone pins, arrow-heads,
etc. The cisterns found at the east and west ends of the
base of the building have been arched over; the crowns of
these arches forming the same level, which corresponded
with that of the dark earth on the north side. The level
adopted has also the advantage of placing the eye of the
480
IONIC TROPHY MONUMENT.
spectator on a line with the lower part of the sculptured
frieze; whereas, had a lower one been chosen, the set-off in
the massive base would have intercepted a perfect view of
the sculpture.
During the whole of the excavations, although we found
the limbs, feet, fingers, and drapery of the statues, we never
discovered a fragment of the heads,-not a curl or feature,
not an ear, a nose, or any chip of the heads of the statues,
notwithstanding a careful examination of the earth surround-
ing the ruins. The reason for this did not occur to me at
the time, and I urged the men to persevere until they should
lay bare the rock; thinking it possible that the heads
might have first fallen, and their broken fragments have been
shaken down among the blocks, and that they might still lie
concealed below. Instead of finding the expected pudding-
stone rock, we came upon small irregular stones, artificially
cemented together; and on advancing, we found regular
walls, forming a series of small houses; in these, near the
openings left for door-ways, were decayed iron hinges, bolts,
rings, and numerous nails; in the houses, weights, scales,
and broken pottery. Upon the tiles of the floors were im-
printed patterns, and amongst them the Cross of the early
Christians was conspicuous; whilst upon some of the walls
the Panagia of the Greek church was still to be recognized.
This circumstance is interesting, as affording relative dates
for the existence of the various buildings, and a probable ex-
planation of the absence of the heads of the statues, as we
know that during the third and fourth centuries the Greek
Christians generally were iconoclasts. In the spring of 1846
upwards of thirty heads of statues were discovered in a well
near Smyrna, doubtless thrown there from the same religious
motives which caused the mutilation of the statues in this
Monument. The hatred seems to have been limited to the
heads of statues; the limbs are not injured, nor were the
heads of the figures in bas-relief ever destroyed. There is
-
IONIC TROPHY MONUMENT.
481
*
one head of a boy in the group on the apex of the east pedi-
ment which has escaped, possibly from its high position
upon the Monument. The incidents which occurred whilst
I was engaged in watching with care the progress of these
excavations have afforded me the means of reasoning and
drawing the conclusions offered in the early part of these
pages.
;
482
REMARKS
FOR
THE GUIDANCE OF TRAVELLERS.
HOPING that some of my friends may be induced to visit
this interesting country, I shall give a few hints as to the
machinery of travelling, which will be found of use to them.
A tent is the first requisite, the old cities and places of the
greatest interest being frequently distant from the modern.
towns or khans; and a good tent makes the traveller quite
independent of the state of health of the town, which I found
a very important advantage. It is desirable that the tent
should be of a waterproof material. I found great use in an
oil-cloth hammock, which was occasionally slung from pole
to pole, but was always of service to spread under my mattress
when the ground was wet. A carpet may be procured in
the country, but a mattress must be taken; also a canteen,
containing the usual requisites for cooking and for making
tea, and a lantern. Arrow-root is the most portable and
convenient material for the traveller's store; it may be pre-
pared in five minutes, and a basin of this will stay the ap-
petite until the dinner can be prepared, which-what with
pitching the tent, lighting the fire (often with green wood),
and the process of cooking-must be frequently delayed an
hour or two after the traveller halts. Rice is necessary, and
tea a great treasure.
I have always found the convenience of carrying a gimlet
REMARKS FOR THE GUIDANCE OF TRAVELLERS.
483
among my travelling stores; it is a substitute for nail, hook,
and hammer: inserted into the wall it forms a peg by which
my clothes are frequently kept from the dirty or damp floor,
or to which I can hang my glass, watch, or thermometer.
The traveller will of course be prepared with every requisite
for the tailor, and will take a few simple medicines.
For economy in travelling it is well to take only five or
six horses; if this number be exceeded, another guide is re-
quired, and the pay to the ostlers is increased. The traveller
who wishes to pay liberally and be well attended by the post,
must calculate that five horses will cost him, with these extra
payments, as much as seven; and this sum will cover all ex-
penses on the road to guides, ostlers, etc., amounting to seven
piastres per hour, or about four miles. On the ordinary lines
of road he may travel three hours in two, being six miles an
hour; this saves time, but the expense is the same.
How-
ever proficient the European traveller may be in the Turkish
language, I should recommend his taking a servant who can
act as dragoman, as he will be thus enabled far better to
understand and fall into the manners and customs of the
people.
The most acceptable presents to the inhabitants are not
such as are of the greatest intrinsic value, but articles of use
which it is difficult for them to procure. The traveller will
do well to supply himself with copper caps for the people in
authority who have had percussion guns given to them, but
which are rendered useless from the want of these, and also
gunpowder for the peasantry: by all classes a sheet of
writing-paper is much valued; leads for patent pencil-cases
are very acceptable; and a common box-compass will furnish
much pleasure, occasionally directing the Mahometan to the
point for his prayers. I have been often asked in a delicate
manner by the Greeks if I possessed a picture of our Queen
or reigning sovereign; a common print of this kind would
be highly prized.
r 2
484
REMARKS FOR THE
The traveller sleeping in a room without glazed windows,
in a tent, or on the floor, will find the bed which I will at-
tempt to describe a great treasure. For the plan of this
bed I was many years ago indebted to my friend Mr. God-
frey Levinge, and have ever since by its use been rendered
independent of all the insect world. The gnats, flies, beetles,
etc., never agreeable even if harmless, are constantly at-
tracted by the light of the candles or the warmth of the mat-
tress; and this simple contrivance I have found the only
plan for preventing their intrusion. Thus ensuring an un-
disturbed night, I have cared little for their attacks by day.
The whole apparatus may be compressed into a hat-case. A
pair of calico sheets (No. 1.), six feet long, sewed together
at the bottom and on both sides, are continued with muslin

1
20
palaka za mesto, pa
2
of the same form and size sewed to them at their open end
(No. 2.), and this muslin is drawn tightly together at the
end with a tape; within this knot are three or four loose
tapes about eighteen inches long, with nooses at their ends,
through which, from within, a cane is threaded so as to form
a circle, extending the muslin as a canopy, which in this form
is suspended.
These canes must be in three pieces, three feet long, each
fitting into the other with a socket or ferrule. The entrance
to the bed is by a neck (No. 3.), from the calico, with a string
to draw it tightly together when you are within: it is desir-
able that the traveller should enter this bed as he would a
GUIDANCE OF TRAVELLERS.
485
shower-bath, and having his night-shirt within. When the
end formed of muslin is suspended, the bed forms an airy

.
115)
་་་-བ་
Ro
canopy, in which the occupant may stand up and dress in
privacy, no one being able to see him from without, while he
can observe all around. I have often, when annoyed by in-
sects, sat to read and write within this shelter in the evening,
with a candle placed near me. To prevent accident from
tearing the apparatus, I have found that the best mode of
entering was to keep the opening on the middle of the mat-
tress, and standing in it, to draw the bag-entrance over my
head. The foregoing sketch will, I think, supply the place
of any further description.
Before concluding these hints to travellers, I should men-
tion that the tourist in Asia Minor would do well to reverse
my route, commencing with the southern country, and pro-
ceeding northwards as the warm season approaches.
486 REMARKS FOR THE GUIDANCE OF TRAVELLERS.
It may also be useful to know, that on leaving this coun-
try by way of Syra, a quarantine of three weeks has to be
performed at that port, which will enable the traveller to
proceed to Athens or any part of Greece. Another quaran-
tine of fourteen days is required before landing from that
State in any other part of Europe. The duration of the
term in each country varies however according to the state
of health in the eastern cities. This double quarantine may
be avoided by proceeding at once to Malta, where one long
imprisonment will enable the traveller to enter freely any
European port.
APPENDIX.
THE following Document was a Paper given to the Trustees of the Bri-
tish Museum, together with the portfolio of drawings, plans, and archi-
tectural measurements, the result of the Lycian Expedition, sent out to
remove the announced discoveries to the British Museum.
As no use has hitherto been made of the information contained in
this paper, or of the portfolio of drawings, either in the arrangement
of the objects in the Museum, or in making the public aware of their
existence as a part of the Lycian Collection, I have, after waiting more
than eight years, thought right to offer them to the public in an Ap-
pendix to this edition of my Journals.
London, September, 1852.
C. FELLOWS.
APPENDIX.
April 1844.
To the Honourable the Trustees of The British Museum.
Gentlemen,-
In order to register an account of the late researches in Lycia,
and of the position in which the several works of art have been
found amidst the ruins of the ancient city of Xanthus, I adopt
the mode of this communication that you may use the informa-
tion as may be deemed best to forward an endeavour to throw
light on history, and upon the arts of the early Lycians.
I have embraced the opportunities within my power to obtain,
by casts, measurements, and drawings, several points peculiar in
the architecture, sculpture, and language of the earliest inhabi-
tants of Lycia, and of which specimens are not found in the an-
cient metropolis; to these I shall add any facts which may have
struck me, and by placing this collection with the results of the
late expedition within our National Museum, I trust ere long
much important knowledge may be developed. I shall as much
as possible confine myself to the information derived from the
various monuments in the country, without any endeavour to il-
lustrate these works by history. Many of the works are in
themselves history, and I know will in several instances testify
to the truth of much of the scanty records that have been handed
down to us in the writings of the ancients.
A
I shall begin by noticing the works of the earliest people who
have left vestiges in Lycia; and fortunately they are numerous.
I 3
490
APPENDIX.
In the ground-plan of the city of Xanthus* the sites of these are
pointed out with blue paint: they are so peculiar that it is not
difficult to distinguish them from all others. The walls, stoas,
and buildings are beautifully constructed, in various modes of
what has been called Cyclopean. Of these, as well as of nume-
rous other architectural monuments, Mr. Rohde Hawkins lays
drawings before you. The existence of these walls alone would
not be to me evidence of the age we must ascribe to the people
of whom I am speaking, as these walls are not peculiar to any
nation or age; but in Lycia these are found surmounted and built
in with architecture, inscriptions, or sculpture which is peculiar to
them, and therefore must be coeval. The massive capped shafts,
which we learn by inscriptions upon them were termed "stele"
(ETHAH), are peculiar to Lycia, and almost to the city of Xanthus.
These are seen in the tomb which was surmounted by the frieze
illustrating the legend of the Harpies with the daughters of King
Pandarus; in the inscribed stele; and in others which are shown
in various drawings laid before you by Mr. George Scharf,
jun. The shafts of all of these are formed of a single stone, some
weighing above eighty tons: they are built upon bases equally
heavy, or placed upon the rock, sculptured to add steps or a base-
ment for the monument. The Gothic-formed tombs, of which the
finest existing specimens are now about to be placed in the Mu-
seum, and the monuments in imitation of wooden constructions,
of which the drawing alone can give an idea-these forms are
repeated and varied in the surrounding rocks, which are in many
cities perfectly honeycombed with the exquisite art of this early
people. The finest specimens, you will see from the drawings, are
at Myra, Pinara, Telmessus, and Tlos. I think that there cannot
be a doubt that the whole of these are the works of the early in-
habitants, who occupied the country. before the sixth century
preceding the Christian æra. Accompanying the whole of these
monuments I find the early language, which, by way of distin-
guishing it from the Greek, has been called the Lycian, although
* The whole of the plans and drawings referred to in this paper, form-
ing a part of the Lycian Collection, are in the British Museum, and are
of course accessible to the public.
APPENDIX,
491
it will be seen hereafter it was that of the Tramelæ* and of the
Trooes. The sculpture which adorns these monuments is also
peculiar, and equally marks these peoples. I have often seen
sculpture and Greek inscriptions upon the tombs in the rocks, but
from their position upon the tombs, the form of the letters, and
even the Christian devices, I cannot be mistaken in attributing
these to the people using the tombs of the past nations. Of the
particular works of this early people I shall speak hereafter in
enumerating the sculptures obtained for the Museum, but shall
leave unnoticed the evidence of coeval inscriptions and coins,
which can be seen in the Museum, and which would complete
the chain of the history of their arts. Amongst the next works
in point of date I place the sculpture fallen from a building
whose basement is marked red upon the plan, indicating its being
of Greek workmanship; although this basement may, as I have
before observed, be equally ascribed to an earlier people. The
superstructure has been in the style of its architecture pure Greek.
I find no trace of any other art of this age amidst the ruins of
Xanthus.
Widely differing from the last in scale, style of architecture,
material, and execution, are the great mass of the ruins of the
city: long walls, massive buildings, large Corinthian columns,
pedestals, a triumphal arch, and very numerous sarcophagi, ex-
tending two miles from the city, are to be seen. Many of these
buildings must have been bold and imposing, but in detail of exe-
cution are coarse and bad, and would at once fix their own date
as late in the Eastern Empire; but this is not left in doubt.
In looking over the numerous inscriptions I scarcely find one
referable to an earlier date than about the Christian æra†, and
mention is made of proconsuls of the reigns of Vespasian and his
* The frequent occurrence of the words TPAMEAE and TPONES, with
their derivatives, in the Lycian inscriptions, has been shown by Mr.
Daniel Sharpe in the Appendix to my Lycia,' as well as in his paper in
the Transactions of the Philological Society.-We also learn from Hero-
dotus (B. C. 445) that the early inhabitants of this country were called
Tramele, Termele, and Termile; and in Homer, that Pandarus led the
Troes to battle.
See inscription in Lycia,' pp. 166 and 409.
492
APPENDIX.
successor.
The coins of these periods are also found commonly
amidst the ruins*. I have industriously sought, but cannot find,
any work or trace of a people existing here between the period
when the Lycian language was in use and that of our ærat.
The materials of the city of this period have been the quarry
for the inhabitants occupying the same site during the ages of
the early Christians. Several large churches built of the old
Lycian and Greek materials are now in ruins; a large monastery
or religious establishment has stood upon the heights; and the
whole of this extended city has been surrounded by walls, also
formed of the columns and inscribed pedestals of the earlier Greeks.
The theatre, which was built by the Greeks upon and over the
ruined Lycian tombs, was in its turn destroyed to build fortifi-
cations for the succeeding people: numerous crosses, tiles, and
Byzantine ornaments are scattered about, and traces of slight
walls, which appear of as late an age as that of the Knights of
Rhodes, are seen in every direction. Within the last century
several buildings have owed their origin to the Turk: amongst
these are the remains of an extensive khan or establishment of a
Derebbe now in ruins. One hut and two barns constituted the
whole city at the time we erected the necessary accommodation
for our party, which will probably become a nucleus of a village
for the peasants who now live in tents around.
* I have found the coins of Claudius, Trajan, the Antonines, Com-
modus, Severus, Gordian, Aurelian, Constantine, and Julian.
+ History would disprove this; and I have one inscription in the sixth
year of the reign of Ptolemy Philadelphus, but no coins or architectural
remains.
493
AN ACCOUNT OF THE COLLECTION IN
THE BRITISH MUSEUM.
In enumerating the works of the Tramelæ, I commence with what
has been called the Harpy Tomb. It may be amongst the most
ancient of their remaining works, but I am inclined to believe the
difference is in style alone, and that it may probably be coeval; it
is archaic in manner, while the sculptures of the monument are
in a free flowing style, but the form of the monument, its posi-
tion, as well as its unfinished state, would link it with the in-
scribed “stele” and others around, which may again be ranked
with the works to be spoken of hereafter. The shaft, frieze, and
cap of this monument, weighing more than a hundred tons, has
been by earthquake moved upon its pedestal eighteen inches to-
wards the north-east, throwing to the ground two stones of the
frieze towards the south-west: in this state I found it in 1838.
In 1841 the eight stones of this frieze were placed in the Mu-
The only similar art which I know in Europe is in the
Albani Villa near Rome. This slab is described by Winckelmann*
as being of earlier workmanship than that of the Etruscant. I
shall not dwell upon these works, as they were found in situ, and
will therefore be as well understood in England as if seen at
Xanthus. I may draw attention to the blue, red, and other
seum.
* Winckelmann, Werke, vol. iii. p. 194.
+ Thinking that no opportunity should be omitted of illustrating this
carliest age of Greek art, I have had casts made from those in Rome, and
hope to see them placed with the marbles in the Museum.
494
APPENDIX.
colours still remaining upon them*. The subject also being that
of the family of King Pandarus, it should ever be borne in mind
that this monument stood in the metropolis of Lycia, and within
twelve miles of the city of Pinara, where we are told that Pan-
darus was deifiedt. This and the neighbouring tombs stood prior
to the building of the theatre, which is probably of Greek work-
manship. The usual form of this structure must have been partially
sacrificed on account of these monuments, as the seats rising in
the circles above the diazoma have abruptly ceased on the west-
ern side, and have not been continued towards the proscenium.
Near to one of the vomitories in the south-eastern bend of the
diazoma is a similar monument to the Harpy Tomb, which has had
the capstone and bas-reliefs removed, and the shaft built over by
the theatre. Upon one of its sides is a short Lycian inscription,
and a few words referring to its repair remain upon another side
in the Greek character.
Not far from these stands the inscribed stele, which is of the
highest interest; of this, which is too heavy and too much muti-
lated to allow, without great labour, of its removal to the Mu-
seum, I have had casts taken in plaster. From my publications‡
you would learn that a portion of the top of this, weighing several
tons, had been split off by the shocks of earthquakes: of this I
have also had casts taken. In excavating around the monument
on the south-west, and in the opposite direction to which the top
had split off, I found the capstone had been thrown which had
surmounted bas-reliefs; also two fragments of a bas-relief, but I
think too high to have been placed upon this stele: they are the
work of the same age, and are now placed in the Museum. The
most important discovery here was of the upper angles broken
from the monument, and having upon them the inscription on
each side, thus perfecting, as far as they extend, the beginnings
and ends of the upper lines of the inscription; these original
stones I have brought home, being useless and insecure, left in
* These may be seen in the outline drawings of the sculptures made
by Mr. Scharf, and deposited in the British Museum.
+ Strabo.
of
'Lycia,' p. 160; inscribed monument at Xanthus, in the first volume
of the Royal Society of Literature.
APPENDIX.
495
fragments with the monument. The exact form of the letters of
the Greek portion of this inscription, compared with many others
of which I shall speak, will do much to fix a date to these works*.
Upon the point of rock on the north-west side of the Acropolis
is a fine Cyclopean basement, which has probably been surmounted
by a similar monument to those of which I have spoken. No
trace is found of any of its fragments; and from its position,
shocks in the same direction as those which have destroyed the
others would have thrown this down the perpendicular cliff into
the river which flows about three hundred feet beneath.
The masses of Cyclopean foundations traced around and upon
the Acropolis, have been too much worked in, and converted to
the use of an after people to ascertain their original form: they
certainly have not been continuous, forming a wall or defence
for the Acropolis; indeed its natural position would render this
superfluous, the cliffs on the south and west are inaccessible.
I observe that most of the forms are referable to vast pedestals
or stoas for large monuments; and from their individual posi-
tions at various elevations, and upon angles and points, I be-
lieve that the Acropolis has been covered with the ornamented
monuments of this early people. The walls and basements
of these separate buildings have since been united by strong
lines formed of the old materials, the most ready for the purpose,
and all put together with a very excellent cement, of which I
have brought away specimens. A wall of this formation, facing
the south-west, attracted my attention in 1838, by displaying
some sculptured animals and chariots built as material into its
front. This wall we have with great labour, owing to the hard-
ness of the cement, entirely removed; behind a portion of it we
found a fine Cyclopean wall, which had slightly inclined over from
the weight of earth behind; the casing which we have removed
strengthened it, and, connecting the old buildings with others.
formed a line of fortification, probably in Roman times. From
On the south-west side, as restored by these fragments, Mr. Daniel
Sharpe reads the usual funereal form, making this monument the tomb
of the son of Harpagus, Arppago-Tedieme. This person is also referred
to in the Greek portion of the inscription on the north-east side. This
gives a date of about 500 B.C. to the inscription upon this monument.
496
APPENDIX.
the great size of the blocks used in constructing this wall, from
the similarity of the stone, as well as from the sculpture traceable
upon almost the whole of them, I conclude that they must have
been the ruins of monuments in the immediate neighbourhood*:
basements for such are on either side. The works found here
are entirely those of the early people; and I may extend this
remark to all found upon the Acropolis. The architectural frag-
ments, many specimens of which I bring away, are all Lycian,
and would form monuments imitative of wooden constructions
-beam-ends, ties, mortices, and cornices, similar to the tombs
shown in the drawings, but double the size in point of scale to
any now existing; bearing this in mind, I do not think it impro-
bable that the sculptures representing a chariot procession have
filled the panels on either side: should this be the case we have
nearly the whole complete. The cornice and borders of these
strongly corroborate this idea. We have four somewhat trian-
gular stones, with sitting sphinxes upon each; these would com-
plete the two gable ends in similar form and spirit of device to
the generality of the tombs of this people. There is also an
angle-stone, interesting from its sculpture, and from its style and
subject blending these works with the age of the Harpy Tomb.
The drawing of this angle-stone was made at Xanthus, and shows
clearly the volute of the Ionic column. I have had this drawing
copied on a larger scale, as the stone has been since injured in
this part, and the colours much removed. The brilliant colour re-
maining upon this and upon the sphinx are highly interesting.
The same wall also produces a series of fighting cocks, which,
from the border upon some of the stones, must have been enta-
blature. Upon a larger scale we have also a frieze of various
animals, all executed with boldness, freedom, and spirit, accom-
panied with great knowledge of all the higher powers of art :
* In the hands of the charioteer, and extending to the horse's collar,
I found leaden reins remaining; had the stone been removed from a
distance these would in all probability have been destroyed.
+ See painting by Mr. Scharf. The painting of the feathers upon the
unsculptured part of the wing of this sphynx is to me sufficient proof of
the co-operation of the painter and sculptor, as the one is here incom-
plete without the other.
APPENDIX.
497
the whole of these probably ornamented one building. I see no
trace of the portions of any other in the materials of this wall.
We have a beautiful fragment of sculpture remarkably similar
to the earliest representations upon the Etruscan vases, two
very early archaic statues in Parian marble, and exquisite frag-
ments of a head, an arm, and the paws of a lion of the same
material. In the earth in front of the wall, not built in, but ap-
parently thrown over, was found the little statue of Venus.
:
To continue with the works of the early inhabitants. We must
next notice the tombs at the foot of the rocky heights at the
south-eastern part of the city of these the most beautiful are
the kind having Gothic-formed tops; these can be seen in the
various drawings. The structure generally consists of a base or
pedestal, which has contained bodies, the Platas*, surmounted by
a plinth or solid mass of stone, which is often sculptured; above
this is a sarcophagus, generally imitative of a wood-formed cabi-
net, the principal receptacle for the bodies, the Soros; upon this
is placed a Gothic lid, sometimes highly ornamented with sculp-
ture, which also served as a place of sepulture, probably the
Isosta. From one of these, in which the lower parts were cut
out of the solid rock, and the top had fallen and been destroyed,
I have had casts taken, as the subject is intimately connected
with the frieze of the wild animals on the Acropolis. On this
tomb the inscription is cut in the language of the early people.
Not far distant from this is a tomb which, from the sculpture
upon it, I distinguish as the "Chimæra Tomb." The lid of this,
which I found in 1840, is perfect, but had been thrown to the
ground by the effect of earthquakes; the chamber from off
which it had slidden was inclining towards the lid; beneath the
chamber a few stones forming the foundation and step in the same
block are alone to be found. There is here no trace of the two
first stories, and from the rock approaching the surface of the
ground I found no depth of earth for research. Upon the
chamber of this tomb is a Lycian inscription, of which I have
casts, in order that they may be used in reconstructing the monu-
* It is interesting to have found by a Greek inscription (see Lycia,
p. 41) the technical terms for the various compartments of the tomb
which I have here used.
498
APPENDIX.
ment in the Museum. The other tomb of this character, and
by far the most highly ornamented, was the tomb of Paiafa,
and I call it, from its sculpture, the "Winged Chariot Tomb*.’
In finding this monument in 1838, I observed that each part had
been much shaken and split by earthquake, but no portion was
wanting except a fragment from the north corner. This monu-
ment combines matters of great interest, showing in itself speci-
mens of the architecture, sculpture, and language. I have stated
that this style of monument is peculiar to Lycia; and I now add,
from the knowledge derived from my research in that country,
that Lycia contains none but these two of this ornamental de-
scription. These differ in minor points, making the possession.
of each highly desirable, and I am glad that these will be placed
in our National Museum. The tombs of Telmessus, Antiphellus,
and Limyra are similar in construction, but have not the sculp-
tured tops and other ornamental finishings seen in these. I have
observed on former occasionst the absence of some ornament
at the end of the hogged mane of the tops of these tombs, and
suggested the finish of a helmet or crest, and my great delight
in afterwards finding in the bas-reliefs of these early people the
representation of them with crests at the ends: some drawings
made from these at Pinara are before you. The use of these
monuments by the earliest people is shown, as well as many other
points of high illustrative interest, in the four bas-relief views of
the ancient city of Pinara cut within the portico of a rock tomb.
I have had these cast, as also the sculpture from the front; and
having furnished you with all requisite measurements, I trust this
tomb may be reconstructed in the Museum, particularly as it will
serve to illustrate the frieze of which I shall speak hereafter.
Casts are also taken from one end of the Gothic-formed lid of
a sarcophagus, and drawings of the other sculptured parts; the
broken and injured state of the original rendered this monument
not worth the labour of cutting and removal: the head-dresses of
the figures as well as the mythology render it interesting, and
illustrate the next tomb, which has been called, for distinction,
*This has been referred to on former occasions under the vague and
unmeaning name of the "Horse Tomb."
† Asia Minor, p. 231; Lycia, p. 142.
APPENDIX.
499
the “Lion Tomb." Each of these appear to me strikingly similar
to the Persepolitan or Oriental sculpture. The form of the Lion
Tomb has been singular, having a kind of sculptured sarcophagus.
overhanging on one end, and forming a chamber upon a shaft
similar to the Harpy Tomb. This was in one stone; the lid is
missing. The sculptures upon this tomb are very early and
curious. The broken portions forming one end were found built
into a neighbouring wall. The rubbish and buildings of the early
Christian age have accumulated to a great depth around this dis-
trict of the ancient city.
Upon the Acropolis, and fallen into a bath, we found a pedestal
having sculptured upon the side a god and goddess within a
temple, in excellent preservation. On the opposite side of the
pedestal is a very singular subject, which, had not certain points
both of execution, material, and position occurred, I should have
attributed to the Byzantine age. Amongst many other animals,
the object of chase to a hunter is seen much mutilated; this
may have been the representation of a novel idea of the Chimæra :
the hind quarters of a goat remain, with a snake for its tail. It
is greatly to be regretted that the other fragments could not be
found. On observing in the ground some very ancient forms of
the Greek letters, differing from all others found so commonly
here, cut upon a slab of marble, I had it taken up, and was de-
lighted to find that it was a pedestal, with a Lycian inscription
upon the other side; this will be valuable, as showing the form
of the Greek characters in use at the age of the language of
Lycia. This same type is seen in all the bilingual inscriptions,
of which we have only casts*.
Of another pedestal at Tlos I have taken casts, which will be
valued from the subjects of the bas-reliefs. The pedestal of one
stone was formed of two cubes, a small one upon a larger. The
fourth side of the upper one was not sculptured. One slab of
the larger cube represents in bas-relief a view of the Acropolis of
* The Greek portion of this inscription records a gift of Pixodarus, son
of Ekatomnas, to the several cities of Lycia, Xanthus, Tlos, and Pinara.
The great interest in this instance is ascertaining a certain date for the
combined use of the language of the early inhabitants. Pixodarus
reigned but five years, and died B.C. 335.
500
APPENDIX.
Tlos, the Troas of these early people: probably the hero whose
deeds were by this monument commemorated, and whose name
occurs twice upon it, was engaged in the defence or capture of the
city. At Tlos I also found cut in the rock of the Acropolis a
tomb with an Ionic portico. Within this are represented a
panelled and ornamented door, and several sculptured devices and
animals, as shown in the drawings and plans. On the side, and
within the portico, is a very early bas-relief of Bellerophon upon
Pegasus, and probably a chimæra beneath the horse; but this
portion of the sculpture is unfinished, and the rock beneath is left
rough; the columns of the portico are only blocked out from the
rock. Of the bas-relief of Bellerophon I have casts, and the full
detail of the colouring which now remains upon the figures. This
is probably the earliest sculpture which we have obtained. From
Cadyanda I have casts of parts of a beautiful tomb, which is so
much in ruins, and shaken into fragments, that I could not even
take casts of the whole of the sculptures that remain. The roof
or lid is wanting. The tomb now consists of a chamber in imita-
tion of a wooden structure, and in the panels is sculpture; sur-
mounting this is a smaller solid block or plinth, also sculptured,
but the upper part is wanting. These bas-reliefs, of which I show
many drawings in my 'Lycia*,' derive great additional interest
from several of the figures having near them names inscribed in
two languages—the Greek and the Lycian. The casts of these
I doubt not will be valued as important illustrations. From
Myra I have casts of the whole of the figures ornamenting one of
the rock tombs. Three of these subjects from within the portico
retain so much of their original painting that I have had the casts
coloured on the spot as fac-similes, and a portion of the paint is
preserved for chemical examination. There are from this tomb
eleven figures the size of lifet. Of the inscriptions of this people
I have made many copies; I have had casts of one long one from
* Lycia, p. 116.
+ In coasting in our boat from Antiphellus to Myra, we put in at the
highly picturesque village of Kakava, which is built amidst the tombs of
an ancient Lycian city. I was fortunate in finding an inscription show-
ing this to be the ancient city of Aperax, the site of which had not
before been discovered.
APPENDIX.
501
the large Gothic-formed tomb at Antiphellus, also of the bilingual
inscription from the same place, and of another from Levisse, near
the ancient Telmessus.
I have now noticed all the works referable to the earliest in-
habitants of Lycia, and I believe the whole of this portion of the
collection has no parallel in any European museum.
Of the age of the next works of which I must speak, and which
are a large portion of the collection from Xanthus, I have great
difficulty in forming an opinion. The whole were found around
a basement which stands on the edge of a cliff to the south-east
of the ancient Acropolis. The monument which stood upon this
stoa has been thrown down by earthquake, almost the whole of
its ruins falling towards the north-west. These works are of a
people quite distinct from the preceding, both in their architec-
ture, sculpture, and language: these are purely Greek. On
carefully examining the whole of the architectural members of
which I have specimens selected (some retaining coloured pat-
terns upon them), as well as the position in which each of the
various parts were thrown, I have, in my own mind, reconstructed
the building, the whole of which was of Parian marble, and highly
finished. The monument which I suppose to have crowned this
basement has been either a magnificent tomb, or a monument
erected as a memorial of a great victory. In re-forming this, I
require the whole of the parts that we have found, and none are
wanting except two stones of the larger frieze, and the fragments
of the statues.
The art of this sculpture is Greek, but the subjects show many
peculiarities and links to the earlier works found in Lycia. The
frieze, representing the taking refuge within a city, and the sally
out of its walls upon the besiegers, has many points of this cha-
racter. The city represented is an ancient Lycian city, and has
within its walls the stele, or monument known alone in Xanthus.
The city is upon a rock; women are seen upon the walls. The
costume of the men is a longer and thinner garment than is seen
in the Attic Greeks. The shields of the chiefs are curtained.
The saddle-cloth of the jaded horse entering the city is precisely
like the one upon the Pegasus of Bellerophon, and the conqueror
and judge is an Eastern Chief, with the umbrella, the emblem of
502
APPENDIX.
oriental royalty, held over him. The body-guard and conquering
party of the chief are Greek soldiers. Many of these peculiari-
ties are also seen in the larger frieze, and also in the style of the
lions and statues. The form of the building, which alone I can
reconcile with the remains, is a Carian monument* of the Ionic
order. Bearing in mind all these points, I am strongly inclined
to attribute this work to the mercenaries from Eolia and Ionia,
brought down by Harpagus to conquer the inhabitants of Xan-
thus, whom they are said to have utterly destroyed. This monu-
ment may have been the tomb of a chief, or erected as a memorial
of the conquest of the city by Harpagus. No inscription has
been found, or it might probably have thrown some light upon
the date of this work. In the immediate neighbourhood were
found the other friezes, representing hunting scenes, a battle,
offerings of various kinds and by different nations, funeral feasts,
and several statues which are of the same date.
The whole of the remaining works now to be traced amidst the
ruins of Xanthus are decidedly of a late date; scarcely any are
to be attributed to a period preceding the Christian era, and to
that age I cannot conceive the works just noticed to have belonged.
A triumphal arch or gateway of the city at the foot of the cliff of
which I have spoken has upon it a Greek inscription, showing it
to have been erected in the reign of Vespasiant, A.D. 80: from
this arch are the metopes and triglyphs now in the Museum.
Through this is a pavement of flagstones leading towards the
theatre. To this age I should attribute the theatre, agora, and
most of the buildings which I have called Greek, and which are
marked red upon the plan. To this people belong the immense
quantity of Mosaic pavements which have existed in all parts of
the city. Almost all the small pebbles in the fields are the debris
of these works: in many places we have found patterns remaining,
which are of coarse execution, but Greek in design.
Near one of the old walls of the Acropolis we laid open an esta-
* Lycia, p. 76. I have many other drawings made at Alinda and
other cities of similar monuments.
+ Above the two lines of inscription had been a line of similar Greek
characters, which had been purposely erased, possibly of an earlier
benefactor.
APPENDIX.
503
""
blishment forming a series of baths: we found the pipes supplying
the water, and the drains from the rooms; a stove, with the char-
coal and ashes remaining. There were four or five small rooms,
probably for the various temperatures required in Eastern baths;
all the floors slightly inclined to a point, at which a drain-pipe
was found. In the largest of these rooms, which had two levels
in the floor, and narrow seats of inlaid marbles on one side, we
found a very perfect mosaic pavement, representing within several
borders of various patterns the subject of "Leda and the Swan :'
the walls of this room had been painted in fresco. Of this bath
you have plans and drawings. On the plain at the foot of the
elevation upon which the city was placed, we disinterred the re-
mains of a mausoleum. In this room, which had vaults beneath,
stood four sarcophagi, raised upon pedestals, forming biers or
places of burial within them. I much regret that these sarco-
phagi were mere fragments, or they would have displayed fine
specimens of the Byzantine age of art. I have collected the frag-
ments of each sarcophagus, and if laid together they will be found
to have points of interest and beauty of composition. The in-
scriptions of this age are very numerous, and the whole of the
many sarcophagi on either side of the city are of this people.
The next period which has left traces is difficult to name with
accuracy; but it shows this site to have been a large Christian
city. Several churches, and one extensive religious establish-
ment, besides many small chapels, are lying in ruins. The whole
of the materials of which these buildings are composed are the
debris of the Greek city. To this people the theatre owes its de-
struction, and the vast walls of defence surrounding the whole
city owe their rise: a part of this fortification is built across the
theatre, and is formed of the seats and sculptured stones taken
from that building. From the total disregard shown for the
Greek buildings,-amongst many other instances, the erecting a
small chapel against the archway,-I should think it probable
that the city, from earthquake or some other cause, must have
been destroyed and deserted.
In excavating around the base of the cliff above the archway,
we laid bare a continued series of walls of small houses, built up
the side of the hill, and formed of the materials of the Byzantine
504
APPENDIX.
city. Among these were built portions of the funeral frieze and
of the statues with the drapery in repose, but not a fragment of
the various portions of the marbles of which I compose the monu-
ment surmounting the basement above. The whole of these had
fallen upon, and lay loosely amidst, the ruined houses, clearly
showing that the building fell at a later period than the construc-
tion of the houses beneath. I shall name one instance in order
to prove the certainty that the building did stand above, and to
show the direction of its fall: every stone indicates the same. One
of the lions in falling struck the basement, where the nose was
broken off and found; the next bound was against a point of
the rock: here we found the feet; the fore-quarter had rolled
half-way down towards the archway, and the hinder half was in
the same line, but in the valley beneath the arch. These you
now have gathered together.
Near to each of the Christian churches and chapels we find the
various forms of the cross, blended with monograms, and intro-
duced into the architectural ornaments, tiles, and even pottery of
this people. Of these you have specimens. Much of the iron-
work, nails, hinges, etc., were found in the houses of this age.
A research in the archives of the Greek church, probably as
late as the time of the Knights of Rhodes, may throw considerable
light upon this Christian city. To the people of this period, who
were in all probability iconoclasts, I attribute the destruction and
removal of the heads of the statues.
As general remarks, I must notice that the whole of the monu-
ments of the city of Xanthus appear to have been shaken by
earthquakes from the north-east to the south-west; and from the
state in which the various stones of the Greek monument are
found, as well as the constant occurrence of the metal ties re-
maining upon them, I should judge that the fragments which we
have removed have been almost wholly undisturbed since the
time of their being thrown down. This latter circumstance in-
duces me to think that a register of the position in which they
were discovered may be of service, from,
Gentlemen,
Your obedient Servant,
CHARLES FELLOWS.
Abydos, page 59.
Acrui-cooe, 190.
Adalia, 133.
Adam, 33.
Ezani, 102, 106.
Alabanda, 266.
Alaysóon, 122.
Alexandria Troas, 42.
Alinda, 269.
Alkhan, 264.
Allahnee, 264.
Allah Shehr, 116.
Almalee, 380.
Altuntash, 114.
Andaluh, 248.
Andiffelo, 353.
Aneghóol, 216.
Antiocheia, 208, 247.
Antiphellus, 163, 350.
Apbrodisias, 251.
Appendix, 482.
INDEX.
Arab Hissá, 266.
Architecture, 35, 36, 38, 48, 84,
146, 150, 164, 175, 182, 255,
297, 300, 313, 321, 330, 373,
377.
Arepas, 263.
Armootlee, 366.
Arna, 451.
Arráchiflee, 248.
Araxa, 310.
Arycanda, 376.
Arycandus, river, 375.
Asalook, 206.
Ascania, lake, 83, 119.
Assos, 35.
Atrassarny, 368.
Avelan, 375.
Avvalah, 354.
Axe, 277.
Baba-dah, 401.
Báffy, 195.
Ball, 234.
Ballintayer, 372.
Bállook, 117.
Bazaar, 232, 238.
Bazaar-cooe, 402.
Bazeeryiancooe, 348.
Beacon ship, 391.
Beahráhm, 34.
Béermargy, 129.
Beenajahcooe, 225.
Bellerophon, 317.
Z
506
INDEX.
Bérgama, 23.
Biendeer, 237.
Birlehbay, 248.
Birrejah, 263.
Bithynia, 77, 91.
Bolcascooe, 147.
Boodoor, 120.
Boojah, 235.
Boojak, 127.
Boonábassy, 50.
Botany, 9, 14, 16, 20, 24, 27, 31,
81, 83, 89, 92, 129, 139, 149,
155, 162, 175, 185, 204, 208,
216, 218, 235, 238, 247, 257,
270, 273, 274, 277, 292, 318,
328, 361, 368, 369, 375, 381,
382, 386, 396.
Bozuke, 282.
Bridge (Greek), 336, 373.
Bulladán, 216.
Cadmus, mount, 212, 251.
Cadyanda, 309.
Cagamus, 216.
Cagiolasolhucooe, 285.
Calbis, river, 291, 403.
Calynda, 297.
Capeedas, 266.
Carachewfathers-yeeilassy, 386.
Caracooe, 210.
Caria, 184, 199.
Carmylessus, 395.
Caroura, 210.
Carreeuke, 405.
Cassabar, 219, 354.
Castellorizzo, 164, 351.
Catacecaumene, 408.
Catchiburloo, 158.
·
Cattle, 405.
Cavass, 262, 344.
Caunus, 451.
Caystrus, river, 237.
Caystrus, 237.
Cestrus, river, 154.
Chalgar, 264.
Chánly, 198.
Channákálasy, 56.
Chariots, 341.
Cheena, 265.
Chelidonia, cape, 368.
Cheralee, 370.
Chicooe, 370.
Chimæra, 348.
Chinganees, 178, 327.
Cibyrates, 397.
Cissidæ, 394.
Climate, 64, 226.
Climax, mount, 142.
Cnidus, 404.
Coins, 255, 268, 273, 283, 317,
324, 347, 378, 395, 414, 418-
420.
Colophon, 236.
Colossæ, 212.
Cooklajah, 235.
Constantinople, 63, 76.
Corydalla, 373.
Costume, 2, 4, 9, 66–68, 140, 187,
207, 235, 326, 352.
Cousk, 177.
Cragus, mount, 169.
Crest, 322.
Customs, 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 14, 25, 33,
39, 41, 47, 57, 61, 67, 72, 78,
79, 91, 101, 105, 111, 119, 121,
132, 140, 155, 161, 163, 176,
179, 192, 219, 243, 261, 278,
281, 283, 288-293, 295, 303,
314, 325, 369, 383, 389, 390,
394, 405, 447, 450, 453.
INDEX.
507
Criscool, 46.
Criser, 46.
Cyanæ, 451.
Cydna, 333.
Cyrus, 415.
Dædala, 396.
Dalamon, 264.
Dávre, 127.
Deliktash, 158, 370.
Demelhéer, 176.
Delta of Xanthus, 333.
Dembre, 355.
Demergeecooe, 363.
Demmeerge-derasy, 269.
Denizlee, 408.
Derebbe, 186.
Dervises, 68.
Dil Ferry, 79.
Doganlu, 100.
Dollomon, 184, 286.
Dollomonchi, 291, 403.
Dondoorahn, 264.
Dooaslán, 101.
Doosler, 42.
Dooveer, 177, 315.
Dumbári-ovasy, 118.
Eetheree, 367.
Elevation, 251, 263, 285, 385,
404.
Enáe, 46.
Ephesus, 205, 241.
Esky Atália, 150.
Esky Hissá, 190, 281, 384.
Ersek, 80.
Euromus, 276.
Eurymedon, river, 153.
Food, 91, 104, 114.
Fornas, 166.
| Gagæ, 367.
Gaicle, 45.
Geography, 398.
Geology, 13, 17, 20, 27, 30, 42,
51, 55, 62, 90, 94, 95, 120, 122,
137, 144, 161, 165, 191, 207,
209, 213, 238, 241, 249, 258,
262, 274, 281, 354, 402, 407,
408.
Gewmooscooe, 408.
Ghera, 210.
Ghiaoúrcooe, 56.
Giassar, 408.
Gibson, Mr. B., 340.
Glaucus, 390.
Goojak, 209, 248.
Goosel Hissá, 206.
Grapes, 238.
Guilemet, 329.
Gule-Hissá-Ovassy, 401.
Gouluh, 101.
Gygæus, 219.
Haggevalleh, 366.
Hágicooe, 103.
Hallil Elley, 55.
Harpagus, 415.
Harpasa, 263.
Harpasus, river, 263.
Harpies, 338, 438.
Hascooe, 366.
Hassá-bohas, 265.
Heliopolis, 245.
Heracleia, 196.
Hierapolis, 212, 411.
Hints to travellers, 417.
History, 398.
Honas-dah, 408.
Hoolah, 187, 284.
Hoomarhoosharry, 404.
508
INDEX.
Hoomarleh, 269.
Hoorahn, 310.
Hoozumlee, 301.
Horses to hire, 233, 261.
Hot springs, 42, 212.
Iakly, 195.
Idin, 206, 242.
Implements, 39, 49, 51, 151, 188,
192, 201, 237, 342, 403, 405.
Inscriptions, 22, 23, 44, 70, 85,
107, 168, 171, 191, 195, 236, |
243, 253, 255, 264, 276, 299,
305, 309, 334, 338, 378, 385.
Isionda, 146.
Ismeér, 1-12.
Jewels, 352.
Jews, 393.
Kákava, 162.
Kalamaki Bay, 348.
Karasoo, 249.
Karaváren, 27.
Karpuslee, 269.
Kastelorizo, 351.
Kedekleh, 349.
Keosk, 244.
Kestep, 329.
Kezann, 239.
Khan, 15, 22, 24.
Kizzlejik, 196.
Konak, 262.
Koogez, 185, 287.
Koongelar, 316.
Koósdervent, 82.
Koosil Hissar, 408.
Kootaya, 97.
Kuilee Khan, 264.
Kymac, 71.
Labranda? 195, 276.
Laodiceia, 210, 410.
Lavisse, 394.
Laws, 5, 12, 25, 194, 260, 286
370, 409.
Leeches, 406.
Léfky, 89.
Legeláhcooe, 150.
Lekena, 283.
Letoum, 436.
Limyra, 160, 362.
Longevity, 43, 285, 390.
Lycus, 210.
Macry, 180, 299.
Mæander, 196.
Magnesia, 15.
Mais, 165.
Mánavgat, 150.
Manser, 15.
Market, 405.
Marsyas, river, 265.
Massycitus, 388.
Mausolus, 280.
Megiste, 352.
Meis, 165, 181.
Melanippe, 368.
Mellassa, 191, 276.
Menzilkhanner, 261.
Messogis, mount, 236.
Miletus, 196.
Milyas, 385, 397.
Minara, 318.
Mohalahbee, 233.
Moolah, 185, 282.
Mosynus, river, 208, 248
Müller, Professor, 359
Mylasa, 191, 276.
Myra, 355.
Myrus, 196.
INDEX.
509
Naslee, 245.
Neapolis, 203.
Nicæa, 83.
Nicholas, Saint, 360.
Nysa, 244.
Obelisk, 338.
Olives, 269.
Olooboonarcooe, 301.
Olympus, 158, 370.
Ooalah-chi, 287.
Oneóenoo, 93.
Oóscooda, 77.
Pactolus, 217.
Paichin, 280.
Painting, 317, 359.
Palláttia, 196.
Pambook Kallasy, 408.
Pandarus, 340, 416.
Parental affection, 296.
Pasha, 134, 284.
Patara, 166, 346.
Paul, Saint, 360.
Pedassis, 404.
Pednelissus, 149.
Peræa, 287.
Pergamus, 25.
Perge, 142.
Phaselis, 158, 372.
Phellus, 349.
Philadelphia, 216.
Phineka, 159, 361.
Phinekacooe, 368.
Phoenix, mount, 372.
Phoenicus Bay, 348.
Pinara, 177, 319.
Plague, 118, 181, 197.
Priene, 200, 239.
Promontorium Sacrum, 368.
Podalia, 384.
Raisins, 238.
Retrospect, 221.
Rhodes, 392.
River disappears, 381.
Ruins, 4, 8, 10, 26, 35, 43, 39, 83,
106, 124, 127, 143, 148, 166,
167, 191, 195, 197, 205, 210,
213, 242, 245, 247, 251, 266,
271, 275, 282, 296, 299, 304,
311, 316, 319, 329, 333, 337,
346, 349, 350, 354, 355, 363,
368, 370, 376, 386, 410. .
Saaret, 349.
Sádecooe, 125.
Sagalassus, 124.
Sailors: English and French, 234;
Greek and Turk, 394.
Samos, 203, 236.
Sandookleé, 113.
Sansoón, 198.
Sardis, 217.
Sarzarkee, 310.
Satala-Hissá-cooe, 315, 395.
Satala-Yeeilassy, 386.
Scala Nuova, 204.
Sculptures, 452.
Seechalik, 408.
Selge, 130.
Sheblac, 55.
Sichanlee, 116.
Side, 150.
Sidecooe, 235.
Sidyma, 329.
Sipylus, 241.
Slaves, 5, 32, 141.
Smyrna, 1, 231.
Sohoot, 90.
Soldiers, 58, 245, 260.
Sparta, 120.
510
INDEX.
Sphinx, 350.
Stámbool, 63.
Storm, 123, 202, 350.
Stratoniceia, 190, 281.
Sultan, 73.
Sultan Hissá, 245.
Syllium, 149.
Tahir Pasha, 243, 409.
Tambook-Kalassy, 408.
Taurus, mount, 396.
Tékrova, 158.
Telmessus, 180, 299.
Teos, 236.
Tepe-cooe, 264.
Thera, 237.
Thyatira, 16.
Tide, 34, 302.
Tlos, 177, 316.
Tmolus, mount, 238.
Toorbeh, 273.
Tortoorcar, 329.
Tourtakar, 403.
Trabala, 356.
Trade, 382.
Tralles, 206, 242.
Tramilæ, 413.
Travelling, 11, 28, 239.
requisites for, 482.
Triandeer, 236.
Tripolis, 216.
Trogilium, prom., 203, 236.
Trooes, 413.
Trophy Monument, 438, 459.
Tumuli, 219.
Tuslee, 394.
Uslann, 332.
Vizierkhan, 90.
Vourtarpessa, 361.
Wine, 175.
Xanthus, 167, 335.
Xanthus, river, 416, 434.
Xenagoræ Islands, 349.
Yakabalyer, 326.
Yanah-dah, 372.
Yarseer, 408.
Yeddy-Cappolee, 308.
Yeeilassies, 386.
Yeerah, 249.
Yehnejah, 247.
Yennibazaar, 246.
Yodurennee, 264.
Yoomahoodas, 404.
Yostootsh, 264
Youghoortcooe, 264.
Yourooks, 131, 236.
Zoology Birds, 23, 28, 115, 126,
154, 185, 210, 214, 242, 247,
369, 405; Reptiles, 62, 71, 81,
129, 154, 185, 204, 209, 218,
247, 298, 353, 369; Beasts, 8,
15, 47, 54, 180, 220, 264, 331,
4.42.
Zoomarleecooe, 264.
Zooregee, 239.
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