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JOHN
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THE EASTERN SEAS.
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Frontispiece.
OF
MICH
JINS
FUSI-YAMA MOUNTAIN, FROM HACONE.
THE EASTERN SEAS:
BEING
A NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE OF H.M.S. "DWARF”
IN CHINA, JAPAN, AND FORMOSA.
WITH A
DESCRIPTION OF THE COAST OF RUSSIAN TARTARY AND EASTERN
SIBERIA, FROM THE COREA TO THE RIVER AMUR.
BY CAPTAIN pontiam
Um
Ward
W. BAX, R.N.
WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1875.
LONDON:
BRADBURY, AGNEW, & CO., PRINTERS, WHITEFRIARS.
:
O
2.11.42
FRR
fibri
Carner
11-23-42
46759
IN
PREFACE.
In consequence of H.M.S. "Dwarf" having
visited many places in China, Japan and the Russian
possessions on the eastern coast of Siberia about
which very little has been written up to the present
time, I have endeavoured to describe her commis-
sion of three years and eight months in those seas
and the places visited.
Many people will be interested to know some-
thing about the Russian ports in the eastern seas of
which at present little is generally known, although
so much has been published about Russia in Central
Asia.
They will probably be surprised at the large
strides made by that power on the sea-coast of
Tartary, and the possession of splendid harbours
which are capable of holding large fleets and of
vi
Preface.
being made almost impregnable; for instance, such
as the harbour of Vladivostok, which is about to
become the head-quarters of the naval forces in
Eastern Siberia.
Eastern Siberia now includes all the latest
annexations in Tartary, the establishment at
Nikolaevsk on the river Amur being too far north
for a naval station on account of the extreme cold
in the winter freezing the river up for several
months, and also on account of the shallow bar at
the entrance.
The very able work called the "Upper and
Lower Amur" by T. W. Atkinson, F. R. G. S.,
F.G.S., describes the interior possessions of Russia
up to 1860; but since that period the Russians
have settled themselves firmly on the sea coast
close down to the borders of the Corea, which will
give them a splendid base of operations for naval
warfare in the eastern seas, should the necessity
arise.
I have also endeavoured to describe the Japanese
troops and vessels that formed their expedition to
Preface.
vii
Formosa, and the cause of it.
casual observer small results
Although to the
were apparently
obtained, the real effect has been to compel the
Chinese to acknowledge their responsibility for the
conduct of the tribes on the east coast of Formosa,
towards shipwrecked people. Hitherto they had
always replied to complaints of foreign nations, by
stating that they had no control over the savage
tribes on the east coast, and that the foreigners
must punish them themselves. This had been the
case when an American vessel had been wrecked,
and the crew murdered at the south end of
Formosa; the United States had been obliged to
send vessels of war to punish the savage tribe, in
consequence of the Chinese expressing their in-
ability to do so.
Many people in England will be pleased to hear
that the missionaries at several of the ports in
China have turned their attention to the spiritual
wants of the sailors of their own country as well as
to the conversion of the natives; and that there
are many good and benevolent gentlemen among
the officials and merchants who have given both
viii
Preface.
their time and their money for making respectable
places for our seamen to resort to while on leave,
where they can read the papers and get their meals
quietly and soberly. These efforts have been
crowned with a very visible effect in the suppres-
sion of drunkenness and leave-breaking in the fleet,
and have considerably reduced the great cause of
sickness and invaliding from that station; thus
rendering a great benefit to the country in general,
as well as to the men individually.
The description of some of my journeys inland
will afford a slight idea of the manner in which the
missionary work is carried on, and of the hardships
endured by some of the missionaries in performing
their duty.
For the historical references I have consulted
the works of Père Gaubil, a Jesuit Father, Dixon
on Japan, the Chinese Repository, Captain Basil
Hall's voyages, and the voyage of H.M.S. "Blos-
som," by Captain Beechey, R.N.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND, AND PASSAGE OUT IN H.M.S.
"TAMAR," APRIL, 1871-ST. VINCENT-ASCENSION—
ST.
HELENA THE CAPE-NATAL-MAURITIUS-SINGAPORE-
HONGKONG-H. M. S. “DWARF" COMMISSIONED JULY 18TH,
1871-TYPHOON AT HONGKONG—AMOY-SWATOW-TAKOW
IN S. FORMOSA-JOURNEY TO BAKSA-TAI-WAN-FOo.
PAGE
36
CHAPTER II.
THE HISTORY OF FORMOSA
CHAPTER III.
THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF AMOY-JOURNEY UP THE NORTH
RIVER DRAGGING A SCHOONER OFF THE BEACH IN
FORMOSA-VISIT TO THE MISSION STATIONS S. W. OF
AMOY-THE FOO-CHOW
STATION-KELUNG-SAU-O-BAY—
THE LOO-CHOO ISLANDS-TAM-SUI
CHAPTER IV.
(C
WRECK OF THE YEDDO "-MONASTERY ON THE CUSHAN MOUN-
TAIN-DISTURBANCE AT TWA-TU-TIA IN FORMOSA—VISIT
TO THE SAVAGE TRIBES IN THE INTERIOR-FÊTE AT THE
ARSENAL AT FOO-CHOW
56
104
•
137
Contents.
CHAPTER V.
SEARCH FOR A LORCHA-CHIN-CHEW—ARRIVE AT JAPAN-
ACCOMPANY THE COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF TO KOBÉ AND
NAGASAKI .
CHAPTER VI.
VOYAGE TO THE RUSSIAN POSSESSIONS IN TARTARY AND
EASTERN SIBERIA-THE ISLAND OF YESSO
·
CHAPTER VII.
ASCENT OF FUSI-YAMA MOUNTAIN IN JAPAN
PAGE
156
192
216
CHAPTER VIII.
KOBÉ-SHANGHAI-THE HOMES FOR SEAMEN-REBELLION AT
SAGA IN JAPAN-SEARCH FOR THE CREW OF A SCHOONER
THAT HAD FOUNDERED-KITE-FLYING FESTIVAL
•
246
CHAPTER IX.
THE JAPANESE EXPEDITION TO FORMOSA—THE ARRIVAL OF
THREE CANOES AT KELUNG FROM THE PELLEW ISLANDS
-JAPANESE CAMP AT LIANG-KIOU, S. FORMOSA
CHAPTER X.
AGASAKI · -EFFECTS OF TYPHOON, AUGUST 20TH, 1874-
—
SHANGHAI-CHING-KIANG — NANKING - ·NINGPO — HONG-
KONG-RELIEVED BY THE NEW SHIP'S COMPANY, NOVEM-
BER 30TH, 1874
274
287
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
FUSI-YAMA MOUNTAIN, FROM HACONE
BEATING OUT THE RICE
PEPPO-HOAN WOMAN AND CHILD, BAKSA.
66
CATAMARAN,” FORMOSA
THE CAPTURE OF AMOY BY THE MANDARIN FORCES, 1853
PUMPING WATER INTO THE RICE FIELDS
POTTED ANCESTORS, AMOY
SAVAGE MAN AND WOMAN, FORMOSA
PAGE
(Frontispiece.
19
29
35
57
61
64
124
PAPPENBORG ISLAND, WHERE THE CHRISTIANS WERE THROWN
OVER THE CLIFF, A.D. 1636
•
VLADIVOSTOK, EASTERN SIBERIA.
WEDGE-SHAPED PROCESSION OF GIRLS
JAPANESE MOUNTAIN COOLIE
JAPANESE JUNK
153
•
160
163
199
222
THE EASTERN SEAS.
CHAPTER I.
DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND, AND PASSAGE OUT IN H.M.S. TAMAR,
APRIL, 1871-ST. VINCENT - ASCENSION- - ST. HELENA -THE
CAPE NATAL MAURITIUS — SINGAPORE HONGKONG-H.M.S.
DWARF COMMISSIONED JULY 18TH, 1871-TYPHOON AT HONG-
KONG-AMOY-SWATOW-TAKOW IN S. FORMOSA—JOURNEY TO
BAKSA-TAI-WAN-FOO.
ON Tuesday, the 11th of April, 1871, H.M.
troopship "Tamar" left Old England with the
ships' companies for the gun-vessels "Dwarf"
and "Avon," and also with a detachment of
troops for St. Helena, the Cape,
the Cape, Natal, and
Mauritius. The "Tamar" was a very comfortable
vessel, steaming her 200 miles a day without
much consumption of coal, and was a very good
sea-boat. We were fortunate in having a plea-
sant set of officers on board, and soon after getting
clear of the Channel had games in the evening
on deck, and readings and lectures occasionally
in the saloon, as the captain encouraged every
C
B
2
[CHAP. I.
The Eastern Seas.
sort of rational amusement among the officers
and men.
On the 24th we arrived at St. Vincent, Cape
Verde Islands, where we coaled. While here,
several of us got some good quail shooting about
five miles from the town, or rather village. The
whole island looks such a parched up cinder, that
it is difficult to believe any birds could live on it at
all, were there not a little dried grass on the
opposite side of the island to the town. The
population consists of the negroes engaged at the
coal dépôt and a very few white people. As there
was generally a strong north-east wind blowing
while we were here, we did not feel the heat so
much when out shooting, although under a scorch-
ing sun, as we expected.
On the 26th of April we left with a strong, fair
wind for Ascension, where we arrived on the
5th of May. When about 190 miles from
Ascension, we saw great quantities of birds called
"wide-awakes." The wide-awakes are sea birds
resembling small gulls, but are black on the back
and white under the wings and breast. They all
live together in a valley at Ascension called
"Wide-awake Fair," where they lay their eggs
so thickly on the rocks, that it is difficult to walk
through the Fair without breaking them. The
CHAP. I.] The Island of Ascension.
3
birds defend their eggs most desperately, and fly
around and screech when disturbed. The eggs are
very good eating when fresh. Most of us visited
the fair, and also the highest peak of the island,
which is called "Green Mountain," from a patch
of
green grass and trees on the top. Ascension is
a naval settlement, and when we were there, was
under the command of a commander with
130 officers and men, many of whom had their
families with them. They all received rations as
if they were living on board a man-of-war, as the
supplies on the island are limited. There is only
one small stream of water from the peak; water
has therefore to be condensed occasionally to
supply the garrison and any vessel that calls in
for it.
There is a hospital at the top of the mountain as
as well as one at the foot, near the landing-place;
which are principally used by patients from the
African squadron.
There are also several small houses on Green
Mountain, to which the officers can go for change
of air. Cattle and sheep are kept at a farm on
the mountain, plenty of turtle are caught in one
of the bays, and kept in the turtle ponds till
wanted, and the reefs abound with good fish. The
landing-place is very bad and inconvenient; you
B 2
4
[CHAP. I.
The Eastern Seas.
have to watch your opportunity to jump on shore
as the boat rises with the wave, and if the rollers
set in, which they sometimes do very suddenly, no
boats could land for days on account of the heavy
surf.
We left Ascension on the 9th of May, and
arrived at St. Helena on the 13th, where nearly all
got away for a scamper to Longwood. Some parts
of St. Helena are pretty; there are a few streams
on the island, and one good waterfall.
The formation and soil appear the same sort of
cinder as Ascension, but probably of an older
formation, as it possesses much more vegetation.
The Suez Canal has damaged the commercial
prosperity of the town to a great extent, by diver-
ting most of the trade that formerly went round by
the Cape to India and China.
We left St. Helena the same evening, and
arrived at the anchorage off Cape Town on the
21st, where we landed most of the soldiers, and
were sorry to part with them; though they all
appeared heartily glad to get on terra firma again.
It is a pity that the breakwater at Table Bay is
not extended sufficiently to shelter large vessels,
because at present it is much exposed in bad
weather. After landing our troops we steamed on
to the naval station at Symon's Bay, where we
CHAP. I.] The Cape of Good Hope.
5
found H.M. ships "Sirius" and "Megæra; " the
latter of which was on the way to her sad end at
St. Paul's Island. There is very good sea-fishing
in the bay, and there are partridges and apes a few
miles from Symon's Town. The road to Cape
Town, near Constantia and Wynberg, is very
pretty, from the neat houses, which are surrounded
with gardens; the avenues of fir trees along each
side of the road make a most grateful shade.
The hotel at Wynberg is clean and reasonable,
and much pleasanter to stop at than those in Cape
Town.
We proceeded on our voyage on the 2nd of June;
and, when outside the bay, well clear of the land,
picked up a boat without any one in it. We sup-
posed that it had belonged to a French coolie ship,
that had been lost with all hands not long before.
On the 6th we anchored off Natal. As there was
a heavy surf on the bar, there was some little diffi-
culty in landing the soldiers; however, the next
day a flat-bottomed bar boat, built like a cargo
boat, took them all in, where they were covered
with hatches to keep the water from getting below,
and were then safely towed over the bar by a
steamer into the river. We then steamed on to
Mauritius, where we arrived on the 14th.
Although Mauritius is very pretty and possesses
6
[CHAP. I.
The Eastern Seas.
magnificent mountain scenery, yet I think its
beauty has been overrated, on account of there
being few large trees on the island; those that it
possesses have been painfully twisted about and
broken by hurricanes, and also considerably re-
duced by being cut recklessly for fuel. Altogether
the island appeared to have a very used-up appear-
ance. A great difficulty the authorities had to
contend with, was the means of getting rid of the
coolies when their term of service had expired.
The coolies were brought from India, but no pro-
vision had been made for their return. The island
had therefore accumulated a large worn-out black
population, which was a fruitful source of fever,
and suffered frightfully from its ravages.
Government had endeavoured, but unfortunately
without success, to pass an act to compel the
employers to send the coolies back after their term
of service had expired, as most of them by that
time had managed to save sufficient to live comfor-
tably at home in India, among their friends, but
not to pay their passage home as well. The
planters were mostly French; there were very few
English in the island. The whole population was
put down to about 350,000. Fever was very pre-
valent, some said that the excessive use of guano
caused it; but as no effectual measures were taken
The
CHAP. I.]
7
Mauritius.
to keep the water pure by preventing the Hindoos
and Chinese from washing their clothes in, and
otherwise polluting the streams that supplied the
houses with drinking water, it was most probably
caused by this also. The botanical gardens are
very well laid out, and reflect great credit on the
taste of the French governor who planned them.
On the 17th we left for Hongkong, where we
arrived on the 15th of July, having called at
Singapore on our way for coal, and to land a few
passengers. At Hongkong we found the “Avon'
and "Dwarf" in the harbour, ready to receive the
new ships' companies, the term of service of their
former ones having expired.
,,
On the afternoon of the 17th of July, 1871, the
new ships' companies were sent on board of H.M.
ships "Dwarf" and "Avon," the former ones
having been discharged in the forenoon, and after-
wards sent to England. The pendant was hoisted
at 8 A.M. on the 18th.
Hongkong has become nearly double in size
and population since I remember what it was in
1853. Many trees have been planted, but the
frequency of typhoons keeps them from increasing
very fast; and the Chinese are constantly cutting
them for firewood, which is scarce and dear at
Hongkong. There is a good reservoir for water
8
[CHAP. I.
The Eastern Seas.
about four miles from Hongkong. It is formed
by a dam made across the end of a valley, which
is supplied by a stream from the hills above. In
the spring, when the mountains have their green
coat on, the island looks very pretty, and the
harbour quite alive with the quantity of steamers,
vessels, junks, and Chinese boats of all descriptions,
that dart about in every direction; many of the
boats being managed entirely by Chinese women
and their young families, the husband working as
a coolie on shore.
On the 3rd of August a telegram was received.
from Batavia, stating that a boat from H.M. ship
"Megæra" had arrived there, with a lieutenant
and some of the crew of that ship, bringing the
news that the "Megæra" had been beached on:
St. Paul's Island to prevent her from sinking; and
that the ship's company had been safely landed on
the island, but required immediate assistance. The
Commodore at once chartered the Peninsular and.
Oriental steamer "Malacca," that happened to be
laying in the harbour, and sent her to the rescue,.
laden with the necessary stores and provisions.
On the 31st the "Dwarf" went outside the
harbour to try her engines, having been refitted
and reported ready for sea.
After the trial we remained outside for the pur-
CHAP. I]
Hongkong.
pose of exercising the ship's company, firing at a
target, and other drills, to get the men into their
places as soon as possible. While steaming into a
bay to anchor in the evening we passed some large-
floating fishing stakes, which were moored in twelve
fathoms of water. Unfortunately, a bamboo hawser
attached to one of them got foul of our port propeller,
and as it was very tough and hard, and as thick as
a man's wrist, we had much trouble in cutting
through it. We were compelled to heel the ship
by getting all the guns and shot and other weights.
over to the opposite side of the deck, so as to raise
the propeller as near the surface of the water as
possible. An officer, carpenter, and a seaman then
dived under the water, and managed to cut through
it with axes and saws. The next day the barometer
began to fall, and a long swell came up from the
S.E. direction; the sky having a dirty, greasy
look at the same time, with every indication of a
typhoon coming on, we went into harbour. On
the 2nd it commenced to blow hard from the
N.W., the wind changing gradually to N.E., when
it blew the hardest, and the barometer was at its
lowest, 29.20 ins., at 11 P.M. After that it con-
tinued to change to E., and finished at S.E. in
the forenoon; the barometer rising again as the
weather moderated. There was a great deal
10
[CHAP. I.
The Eastern Seas.
of damage done to ships, junks, and boats; many
lives were lost, as several small vessels foundered,
and some were blown out to sea and wrecked out-
side. Nearly every vessel dragged their anchors.
Although we had three anchors down and were
steaming as well, the lower yards and top-
masts being down on deck and everything else
sent from aloft, yet we managed to drag our
under the bow of the
anchors till we got close
"Princess Charlotte;" so close, that it appeared
as if her great cutwater must strike our stern
as she pitched to the waves. Fortunately we
had not veered quite all our cable; we therefore
watched our opportunity, and gave her full speed
with the engines, the helm being placed hard over
to port at the same time, and then veered on the
cables quickly. The ship answered her helm and
sheered clear of the "Princess Charlotte," bring-
ing up safely under her stern. The houses in the
town were much damaged, and the sea-wall was
washed away by the waves for a considerable dis-
tance.
After the typhoon, H.M.S. "Avon" was sent
outside the harbour to look out for the wrecks, and
to assist any disabled vessels that she might meet
with. Shipwrights at Hongkong ought to do well
in the typhoon season from the quantity of vessels
CHAP. I.] Raising Sunken Gunboats.
11
that come in, having lost their masts or boats, and
often badly strained in the hull besides.
For a long time after the typhoon working par-
ties of seamen from the men-of-war were employed
in raising the coal-lighters belonging to the naval
dockyard. The lighters had been old condemned
gunboats, and had foundered in the storm. In
order to do this, a gunboat was placed on each side
of the one to be lifted, and chains were passed
under her bottom and secured to two balks of
timber, which were placed across the gunboats near
the bow and stern. These chains were hove taut
at low water, and as the tide rose the lighter
floated, and was then hauled in towards the shore
until it again grounded. This operation had to be
repeated every tide until it was far enough in to
allow of its being pumped out at low water. We
had hot, showery weather during the work, which
was most trying for the working parties.
On the 11th October we left for Amoy, but in
consequence of the strong N.E. monsoon against
us obliging us to anchor often, we made a long
passage; and in consequence of calling in at
Swatow on our way, did not reach Amoy till the
22nd, just as the Commander-in-Chief, Vice-Ad-
miral Sir H. Kellet, K.C.B., was leaving that
place in H.M. ship "Ocean," for Hongkong. I
12
[CHAP. I.
The Eastern Seas.
was surprised to see what a pretty and pleasant
place the foreign settlement had become since the
merchants' houses have been built on the island of
Kulangsue opposite the town instead of being con-
fined to the town side, as was the case when I was
at Amoy in 1853. The old settlement is merely
used for offices and business transactions. There is
a very pleasant little community consisting of Eng-
lish, American, French, and German; a club and
racket court have been built on the island, which
has been laid out with walks, quite clear of any
intrusion from the Chinese.
We found the merchants very hospitable, and
the ladies often gave pleasant croquet parties; in
fact everyone seemed to try how agreeably they
could make the time pass to others as well as them-
selves during their exile in a foreign land. Amoy
is one of the stations for English and American
missionaries, who live on the island of Kulangsue
with their families, and take their regular turn of
duty up the country.
the country. They go as far as the city of
Chinchew, which is about eighty miles up the coast,
and for a radius of sixty miles or so inland. The
Foochow mission stations almost join theirs on the
north and the Swatow on the south.
It necessitates constant hard and trying travel-
ling, sometimes by boat on the rivers, and at others
CHAP. I.]
13
Amoy.
on foot, or by chairs carried by coolies, to visit the
chapels at those towns and villages where their
efforts have been successful in establishing a small
Christian community among the Chinese.
Amoy possesses a hospital for the Chinese, which
is supported by the foreign merchants, and is very
ably attended by an English doctor. Among his
patients he has many diseases to contend with that
are not common in England. A clergyman visits
the hospital every morning, and holds a service for
those patients that will attend. There is also a
school for children.
At this time a steam gun-boat belonging to the
Chinese Imperial Custom service was at Amoy, and
engaged in building the lighthouse on Chapel
Island about sixteen miles from the harbour. Her
captain (who had been in the English navy) kindly
asked me to go with him one day to see it, when he
had to take provisions and water to the island,
which offer I gladly availed myself of. The island
is merely an egg-shaped rock about 180 feet high;
the lighthouse is 42 feet besides, and it shows a
good flashing light for twenty-one miles. As there
was no water on the island, they have built two
tanks to catch the rain; and also a comfortable
house for the keepers, and a store-house to hold a
good supply of provisions, as boats can only land
14
[CHAP. I.
The Eastern Seas.
at it when the water is smooth. The rock is quite
precipitous from the water, and the path to the top
is only a narrow ledge scraped out of the side of
the cliff; the task of getting the heavy materials,
and especially the lantern, to the top, was most
difficult, and great credit is due to the ingenuity
and perseverance of the engineer and those who
were employed with him. A very curious cave
runs through the centre of the rock. The water all
round the island is very deep, the only place where
the gun-boat could drop her anchor for a few hours
in fine weather being quite close to the landing
place.
There are some nice walks in the vicinity of
Amoy to the different Buddhist temples in the
hills at the back of the city. One or two old
priests live in them, who lead a quiet and peaceful
existence, and are supported by small donations
from the Chinese, and in some cases by cultivating
a small patch of ground belonging to the temple, as
well. They are always glad to afford the use of
the temples to a picnic party, and consider it no
sacrilege to have the good cheer spread on the
joss tables for a small consideration. The carving
in some of the temples is very quaint, and painted
with the most glaring colours; altogether they
look very curious, as they are perched among the
CHAP. I.]
15
Rescue of a Schooner.
large granite boulders, and shaded with fine fir
trees, which are carefully preserved near the
temples, although they are very scarce elsewhere
among the bare and scorched-up hills of Amoy.
On the 31st of October, a request came from the
master of the British schooner "Rantipole," to
have his vessel surveyed, as she had been driven on
shore on one of the "Pescadore" islands about
eighty miles from Amoy. The vessel had been got
off with great difficulty, and came back to Amoy
with the assistance of H.M. gunboat "Opossum."
The story shows how a good and brave seaman can
defend his ship, and save her under very trying
circumstances, and with small resources. The
schooner had been caught in a very heavy gale
when off the "Pescadores," and all her sails had
been blown away; at last, as the vessel had become
unmanageable, she had been driven over a reef on
one of the out-lying islands. After the storm was
over, the crew laid out their anchors to heave the
vessel off; and as all their boats had been smashed,
and they could hire none from the fishermen, who
refused to render any assistance, they made rafts,
and took their anchors out with them, and by this
method managed to haul their vessel into a narrow
channel between the reefs, and commenced to warp
her out. The Chinese at these islands being
16
[CHAP. I.
The Eastern Seas.
plunderers (when they get a chance), as well as
fishermen, and always looking on a wreck as lawful
spoil, when they saw the schooner likely to get
away, swarmed round her in boats, and tried to get
on board to plunder her. The crew consisting of
eleven Manilla men besides the captain, who was a
big and strong west countryman, behaved very
bravely, and beat the Chinese back. Finding they
could not take the schooner by force, the Chinese
then tried to lift the anchor with their boats, so
that she would drift on the rocks again. On
seeing this the captain fired at them, and drove
them away. On account of a strong N.E. wind
continuing to blow into this little channel, the
schooner could not get away without assistance.
Fortunately a steamer happened to call at Makung,
the principal town on the island, and heard about
the circumstances; and on her return to the China
coast reported it, so that the "Opossum" went
over and towed the schooner out of her dangerous
place, much to the disgust of the fishermen.
On the night of November 1st the steamer
"Azof" broke from her moorings, and before the
crew had time to save her by letting go an anchor,
she drifted on a nasty reef of large boulder rocks
off the seaman's hospital on Kulangsue Island;
nearly on the same rocks that the "Fox" frigate
CHAP. I.] Wreck of the Steamer "Azof."
17
龠
​is represented to have been lost in the seventeenth
century, as described in Hamilton's voyages.
Unfortunately the "Azof" grounded when it
was near high water, and as the rise and fall of the
tide is fully nineteen feet at spring tides, the rocks
soon went though her bottom, and she became a
total wreck. The "Fox" was the first British
King's ship that ever visited Amoy, and Captain
Hamilton gives a very interesting account of the
manner in which the crew were disposed of, and
the great difficulty the East India Company's
ships made before they would take the officers and
seamen on board their vessels for passage to
England, and Captain Hamilton states that it was
only on account of the pressure put on them by the
Chinese tauti, or governor, who threatened to stop
the trade if they did not assist their countrymen,
that they at last consented.
Chinese governors
at that time acted in a far more independent
manner towards foreigners than they can now.
There are some of the graves of the East India
Company's officers who were buried on Kulangsue
Island at a very early date, the inscriptions being
still legible. On the city side of the harbour there
are some belonging to Portuguese Jesuits, buried
there at the end of the sixteenth century.
On the 8th of November we ran down to Swatow
C
18
[CHAP. I.
The Eastern Seas.
under sail, and arrived off the settlement the next
day. Swatow is situated on the river Han, the
Chinese town being built on a mud flat on the
north bank of the river, and the foreign settlement
on the other side of it; all of the merchants'
offices are in the native town. A A range of rugged
and rocky hills rises immediately behind the settle-
ment, which is built at the base of them, some
of the houses being surrounded with trees, which
give a pleasing relief to the eye from the glare of
the barren hills above. Swatow is the port for the
large city of Tou-chow-foo, which is about twenty-
eight miles up a river that is only navigable for
small flat-bottomed boats. An English vice-con-
sulate is held at Tou-chow-foo, and the consulate
is at Swatow; all the trade is carried on and the
foreign vessels anchor at the latter place. Behind
the city, in the swamp, are plenty of duck and
snipe. The Chinese have very ingenious nets for
catching the fish in the lagoons which are staked,
and used for breeding.
While at Swatow I took the opportunity to
survey a creek called Tatapo, leading from Swatow
to Hope Bay on the coast to the south. It cuts off
twenty miles, and is a capital passage for boats, as
the point called the Cape of Good Hope, where
there is always a nasty tide-race, would be avoided.
CHAP. I.]
1.9
The Swatow District.
It is about eight miles long, but very shallow at
each entrance, only having about six feet of water
at high water; although when once inside the
creek there is plenty of water. This passage is
much used by junks.
On the 19th of November the captain of the

BEATING OUT THE RICE.
Chinese Imperial gunboat "Chento," and myself,
started in his gig, with a crew of six Chinese
sailors, to examine the water communication in the
neighbourhood. We sailed up the river Han, with
a strong fair wind and tide, to the town of Cheek-
yuen, about thirty miles from Swatow, in six and
a half hours. The country was flat, and highly
cultivated with rice, and intersected with canals in
every direction. The people were cutting the rice,
C 2
20
[CHAP. I.
The Eastern Seas.
and stacking it in sheaves like wheat in England.
It was afterwards beaten out into big tubs in the
fields, when thoroughly dry. We fortunately
found a Chinese passenger steamboat at Cheek-
yuen, and slept on board of her during the night,
as we had only an open boat. The next morning
we walked round the city walls, which were about
three miles in circuit. The houses were mean,
and many of them in ruins. After breakfast we
started in our boat through narrow canals and creeks
among the paddy-fields to a village called Torkar,
about twenty miles from Cheek-yuen. We here
left the boat, and walked on to the city of Tou-
chow-foo, which was about thirteen miles farther.
The paths across the fields were very narrow,
barely sufficient for two people to pass each other.
They generally consist of a series of stones placed
lengthwise, about the width of a respectable curb-
stone. The country people were all very civil.
On approaching the city, our path led through
orange groves, and we met many Chinese gentle-
men out for a stroll on foot and horseback, enjoy-
ing the shade of the trees. As neither of us spoke
Chinese, we had a difficulty in finding our way to
the consulate, the city being very large and
bustling. It has a high wall round it in a good
state of preservation. In one place a play was
CHAP. I.] The City of Tou-chow-foo.
21
being acted on a stage raised about five feet from
the ground, and stretching right across the street.
The crowd in front of it was so dense, that we had
much trouble to get through; the mob being
inclined to be rude and jeer at us, especially when
we had to dive under the stage. At last we got hold
of a soldier, who understanding where we wished
to go, took us to the consulate, where we for-
tunately found the vice-consul at home, who gave
us dinner, bed, and breakfast. The next morning
he escorted us clear of the city on our return to the
boat, which we found at the place we had left her
on the previous day. There were some fine shops in
the town, which is a place of considerable trade.
We found all the crew in the boat, because, being
Cantonese, they said they did not wish to speak to,
or to have anything to do with the Chinese of the
village, beyond buying provisions of them, as they
were pigs. It is curious to find how bitter the
Chinese of one province are against those of
another. A pull and sail of eighteen miles
brought us back to the ship by another route after
a very pleasant cruise, as Captain R
first-rate travelling companion. Altogether we
had made a circuit of nearly 100 miles, obtaining
a very valuable knowledge of the country and
inhabitants.
- was a
22
[CHAP. I.
The Eastern Seas.
As
On the 22nd, the "Dwarf" left for the harbour
of Takow, in the southern part of Formosa. When
outside the river Han, we passed great quantities
of fishing boats, one of them carrying a large
Joss or idol, with flags flying, and priests and
others beating tom-toms, shouting, and singing.
It was apparently a religious ceremony, to induce
Bhudda to give them good fortune. We sailed
across leisurely, in order to exercise the ship's
company at sea, and to sound the Formosa bank in
different parts, as it was reported to have grown
and altered considerably since the last survey.
far as we could discover, the chart was very correct;
had there been any great alteration we should pro-
bably have found it out, as the weather was most
favourable for our work. The bank is irregular in
its depth, and the current runs over it with great
strength, so that, even in fine weather, in many
places there are overfalls, or broken water, that
could easily be mistaken for shallow patches unless
examined closely. In stormy weather there is a
very dangerous sea on the bank; vessels should
therefore avoid going over it at that time if
possible.
We moored in Takow on the 27th. This harbour
has a very peculiar entrance, looking as if an earth-
quake had rent off a portion of Apes hill to form
CHAP. I.]
23
Takow.
an entrance, and let the sea into the lagoon be-
hind. The entrance is very narrow, and has a bar
of sand across it, and is only fit for small vessels to
make use of it; the large ones anchor outside,
where the anchorage is good in the N.E. monsoon,
but very dangerous in the S.W., as it then becomes
a lee-shore. At present, a good pilot can take
vessels, drawing twelve feet, over the bar at high
water. There are many apes and monkeys on
Apes hill, overlooking the harbour on the north
side, but they are very wary, and difficult to get
at, as they dodge the sportsman from rock to rock,
and, just before he can get a good shot at them,
scratch themselves, and chatter, and bound away. A
belt of flat, cultivated country, of nearly thirty miles
in width, cuts them off from their kindred in the
mountains in the interior. While here, the Rev.
H. R- of the London Presbyterian Mission
Society, with whom I had become acquainted,
asked me if I would like to accompany him on a
visit to a village about fifty miles inland, where
there was a chapel and a small Christian community
of Peppohoans. I gladly availed myself of his
offer, and with a party, consisting of his wife and
two children, another lady, my servant, and myself,
we started on the morning of the 29th of November.
We first crossed the lagoon to the village of Ling-a-
24
[CHAP. I.
The Eastern Seas.
leau, where we got chairs with coolies for the ladies,
and also coolies to carry our luggage and provisions;
the rest of us walked to the district city of Pethou,
about six miles inland, which has a magistrate,
and about 6,000 inhabitants. There is a Christian
chapel here, with a congregation of about sixty
families. The chapel has three rooms attached,
for the use of the missionaries or Chinese teachers,
when travelling. As Mr. R had some work
to attend to at this place, we remained for the
night; and in the evening I accompanied him to
visit a poor old Chinese Christian who was very
ill and not expected to live. He appeared quite
cheered by Mr. R coming to visit and pray
with him. He said he felt at peace with God and
man, and had a firm confidence in our Saviour.
His wife was tending him most affectionately, and
seemed in great grief for the state of her husband..
A Chinese teacher lives at the chapel to perform
the services, and to instruct those men, women,
and children that wished to attend the school.
The service consisted of hymns, prayers, and a
portion of the Scripture, in the Presbyterian form
of worship; the congregation appeared orderly and
attentive. I may as well here mention that on
subsequent occasions, when I have been on shooting
excursions in the country, I have attended the
CHAP. I.] A Peppohoan Christian.
25
service at some of the different native chapels on
Sunday when no English missionary has been with
me; and that I have always found everything
carried on with the same order and decency as
when one has been present. The next morning we
left Pethou for the town of A-lu-kan, which was
about twenty miles farther, in a N.E. direction.
The country was flat, and supported a large popu-
lation; it was well cultivated with rice and sugar-
cane. The villages have a dense wall of bamboo
round them, and, as they look all alike, are very
puzzling for a stranger to tell one from the other.
We stopped at the house of a Peppohoan Christian,
at the valley of Hoeng-sia, near A-lu-kan. His
name was Ka-leng-hai, and he was a very fine old
fellow, with a nice and pleasant wife and family of
fine tall sons. He was an elder of the church at
A-lu-kan, and well known to many foreigners on
account of lodging them in his house, and accom-
panying them in their shooting excursions. His
house was very prettily situated in a plantation of
beetle-nut palms and bamboos, and was kept much
cleaner than houses generally are in Formosa. The
Peppohoans are the descendants of the savage tribes
who inhabited the plain country in Formosa, and,
who after being conquered by the Chinese, have
mixed with them to a great extent. The Chinese
26
[CHAP. I.
The Eastern Seas.
like to have Peppohoan women for their wives, as
they can do so much more work, being finer and
stronger women than the Chinese. They do not
contract their feet; and dress the hair differently
to the Chinese women, twisting it in a plait round
the head, with a piece of red cloth worked in the
plait; altogether they are prettier as well as more
useful. Mr. R-- was well known and evidently
greatly respected; all the Christians we met by the
way shook hands with us, and saluted us with the
expression "Paheng," which means "peace be with
you." Ka-ling-hai kept plenty of fowls, and had
tried to rear turkeys, but the young ones had
always either died from the damp in the rainy
season, or been killed by small gnats or flies biting
their eyes. The climate of Formosa does not agree
with turkeys in any part, although they thrive
very well at Amoy, which is much drier in climate
and soil. The next day we continued our journey
to Baksa, about twenty-five miles farther on. For
the first fifteen miles or so, the country still con-
tinued level, and well cultivated with rice, sugar,
sweet potatoes, and ground nuts; the villagers had
also plenty of pigs, fowls, geese, and ducks; water
buffaloes were used for ploughing and drawing
carts, where the road admits of their being used,
but they had very few other cattle. The people in
CHAP. I.] Presbyterian Mission, Baksa.
27
the towns were mostly Chinese, but in the country
villages Peppohoans began to get more numerous
as we advanced inland. We crossed several rivers,
some by wading, and others on rafts made of bam-
boo. The last part of the way was over a hilly
country, very pleasant after the monotony of the
rice fields on the previous day. Wherever we
stopped for our meals, whether in the towns,
villages, or at roadside inns, a crowd always col-
lected round the ladies when they got out of their
chairs, and examined their dresses and the chil-
dren's. They intended no rudeness, although it
was excessively inconvenient, but the ladies bore
it very good-humouredly. When sitting in the
chairs they could not be seen, as the chairs are
fitted with bamboo blinds, so they were not noticed
while journeying.
In a lovely situation among the mountains is
placed the small village of Baksa, containing a
chapel and school-house for the district round,
which is mostly Peppohoan. The natives built
them almost entirely at their own expense, the
society adding a hut of mud and bamboo, consisting
of three rooms, and a cooking shed for the use of
the missionary on his visit. As the hut only cost
the society eighty dollars, it was not a very extra-
vagant outlay; it was made like the houses of the
28
[CHAP. I.
The Eastern Seas.
country, with a sort of outer wall of bamboo, about
two and a half feet from the real wall, to prevent the
rain from beating the mud-walls down in the S.W.
monsoon. There were nearly 400 people at church
on the Sunday I was present, but the greater number
of these were only hearers, as the missionaries are
very careful not to baptize too readily. Many of
them could read the hymns, and New Testament,
which are written in the Chinese character; and
copies are also written with the Chinese words spelt
with Roman letters as near the pronunciation as
possible; as it is found that those that cannot read
at all, will learn more quickly by using the Roman
characters than the Chinese. A foreigner can
easily follow them when singing the hymns from
one of these books, though he may not understand
the meaning of the words. While here, Mr. R
and myself walked across the hills, about five miles
farther to the Peppohoan village of Ka-ma-na,
where there was also a chapel and a Chinese
Christian teacher. We had a most beautiful view
from the top of the range on our way, steep moun-
tains on one side, and a long stretch of tableland
and plain on the other.
On December the 4th, my Peppohoan friend
Ka-leng-hai (who had accompanied us to Baksa) my
servant, and myself, left Baksa and our friends to
CHAP. I.]
29
Spread of Christianity.
return to Takow by a route more inland, along the
foot of the mountains. We reached A-lu-kan by
night, and slept at Ka-leng-hai's house, and the next
day got back to Takow, making a walk of fifty-
five miles in two days without trouble. As far as

PEPPOHOAN WOMAN AND CHILD, BAKSA.
I could judge, Christianity is spreading more
rapidly among the Peppohoans than Chinese, on
account of their character being more simple, and
their having no great attachment to the Bhuddist
form of worship, which has only become known to
them since their conquest by the Chinese. Also,
as they are not rich enough to support many
temples or priests to oppose the new faith, the
work of conversion among them is like planting in
30
[CHAP. I.
The Eastern Seas.
a new soil. Formosa is also fortunate in having
missionaries who appear to have their heart and
soul in their work, without regard to bodily toil, or
sickness from travelling in a climate that in some
seasons is most trying on account of fever, ague,
and dysentery, but the Almighty gives strength
when needed to those that ask His help carnestly.
The hospital for natives at Takow, which is
supported by the foreign community, is also a great
means of showing the bright side of the Christian
character, as any poor man who chooses to come, is
doctored and fed free of expense, and on his return
to his native village, cannot fail to give a good
report of those who have treated him so kindly and
generously. This pre-disposes the natives for the
work of the missionary, and in many cases villages
have sent in to request religious instruction, simply
from the report of some of their people who have
been to the hospital, and heard the Word of God
preached while there under treatment for their
bodily ailments.
Before any chapel or school-house is built, the
natives of the district, to show that they are really
in earnest in their new faith, collect sufficient
money among them to build the chapel and school;
and in some cases, where rich enough, contribute to
the support of the Chinese teacher themselves.
CHAP. I.] Absurd Stories against the Christians. 31
The Roman Catholics also have a mission with a
school attached, about two or three miles from
Takow; and one at the foot of the mountains
besides, which is about thirty-five miles inland.
The Roman Catholic priests dress in the Chinese
dress, and when once in the country, make up their
minds to remain there for life and never to visit
Europe again. They also have many converts.
Christian natives are occasionally annoyed by
absurd stories being spread among the Chinese, it
is supposed by the Literati, who are hostile to
foreigners, in order to excite the people against
them. These reports are generally to the effect
that the Christians steal children and take out their
eyes to make medicine, or other stories equally
absurd. At one time while the "Dwarf" was at
Takow, stories of this description had caused much
excitement and ill-feeling among ignorant people in
the interior; but it soon subsided when the repre-
sentations of H.M. Consul caused the Chinese
authorities to issue a proclamation that these stories
were false, and only spread by wicked people.
Several of the officers had fair shooting near the
harbour, pheasant, duck and snipe. We unfortu-
nately lost one fine young man here; a stoker who
had been on leave on shore with three other
stokers, and had gone to the village of Ling-a-leau
32
[CHAP. I.
The Eastern Seas.
As they had
across to the side of the lagoon opposite to the
town. As it was late when they wished to return,
they could not get a sampan or Chinese boat, they
therefore took a catamaran themselves, and tried to
push her with long bamboo poles across the lagoon,
which is about a mile and a half broad in that
part, and about six or seven feet deep. It soon
got dark, and began to blow hard. They first lost
one pole, and then the other.
nothing else to propel the raft, one of them jumped
after the pole that was sticking in the mud, and
swam to it to bring it back. The tide and wind
swept the raft from him, and as none of the others
could swim, they could render no assistance.
Shortly afterwards they got on shore, and ran into
Takow asking for assistance, and then went on
board their ship and reported the accident. Al-
though all the ship's boats were sent away to
search for the poor fellow immediately, and several
of the merchants had started with their boats when
the alarm was first given, yet they could not find
him, and the body was not recovered for a week.
It was buried in the cemetery after an inquest had
been held, the captain performing the impressive
ceremony, there being no clergyman at Takow at
the time to do it.
Some of the merchants keep ponies which they
CHAP. I.]
33
Curious Fish.
kindly lent to the officers to ride. The only good
gallop is along the sand at low water, as the spit
forming the lagoon and on which the town is built,
is only a ridge of sand hills about eight miles long,
and terminated by the rocky wedge-shaped hill
called Saracen's Head. Some of the fishermen on
this coast use a net of fine gauze stretched on a
frame like a shrimp net, and pushed before them in
the same way to catch a very curious little fish,
less than half an inch long and quite transparent.
They take them out of the net by a basin, and it is
only after some little time that a stranger can see
the fish at all. The first thing you notice is two
little black specks, and then a little transparent
body attached, darting about incessantly; the
specks are the eyes. These little fish are sent up
the country, and sold to rich Chinese to stock their
fishponds, as they live in fresh water and grow to
be good fish for eating.
On the 12th, the ship left for Tai-wan-foo, the
capital of Formosa, which is
miles north of Takow by sea.
about twenty-eight
It is situated on a
small river, which is rapidly filling up with sand.
The city is now about four miles from the sea,
which formerly came close up to the walls, so that
in the seventeenth century the Dutch and Chinese
fleets could lay close to it; and for many years
D
34
[CHAP. I.
The Eastern Seas..
afterwards there was a good harbour for small
vessels at Amping, which then became the port for
Tai-wan-foo, but now there is only sufficient water
for boats to cross the bar. The Dutch had a very
strong fortress here, and one also at Tai-wan-foo,
called Fort Zealandia, but both forts are now in
ruins, having been taken from them by the Chinese
Admiral Koxinga, in 1662, A.D. The Dutch only
held Formosa about thirty years. It was at this
place that more than one hundred Englishmen, who
had been wrecked in the ship "Nerbudda" and
the brig "Ann," were barbarously murdered in
cold blood by the Chinese authorities in September,
1841, and March, 1842. We had several guests
on board for the passage, and they had barely time
to get on shore, before it commenced to blow so
hard from the N.E. that there was no communica-
tion for two days, the weather becoming quite cold,
almost freezing. The Consul, an officer of the
ship, and myself, made an official visit to the Tauti
or Governor of Formosa. He lives in a yamun in
the city, to which we went in chairs of state, and
were received with the usual salute of three guns,
and a motley guard of Chinese soldiers, armed with
spears and matchlocks. The Tauti was a very
pleasant man, and gave us cakes, Chinese wine,
and tea which is ceremoniously drank by guests
CHAP. I.]
35
Visit to a Tauti.
and host when the visit is about to finish. He was
unfortunately an opium smoker, and evidently
suffered from the effects. He was formerly the
Tauti of Amoy, and said he did not like his pro-
motion, as they did not know how to make such
good cakes in Tai-wan as at Amoy. Chinese wine
is of the colour of indifferent light sherry. It

CATAMARAN, FORMOSA.
is drank warm, and is not unpleasant. The Tauti
said that cold drinks were bad for the stomach.
They have the same or rather a greater horror
of cold baths. The next day I returned on board
the ship through the surf on a catamaran, sitting
in the tub, which just holds two people with
much squeezing; the raft was paddled by four
men. The catamarans are very buoyant, but some-
times capsize, leaving the passengers to float in
their tub.
D 2
36
[CHAP. I.
The Eastern Seas.
As a short history of Formosa, with the occupa-
tion of the Dutch, may be interesting, I give it
in the next chapter, taken from the "Chinese
Repository," Vol. II., of 1833.
ور

UNIL
OF
MICH
25
24
120
121
ISLAND
OF
FORMOSA
English Miles.
10
20
30
40
Foki P
122
Paksa
P.Heongsan
Tatou M
Ma-sou
Kelung H
Nam-kam P
Hoi-how
Tamsui H
2800
Keting
Chaci-tengka 28503
Petau Pt
strict
Maihow
2010
Samtiau Pt
The hug
Thiong-lo
Nana-sha
M.
Go-koki Twatuia
Rice and Sugar
Pan pe
Table 1
360
To-ka-ham R
Tokaham
Banka
a Large Plain
Tchatoken
Tchin-ten-ka
Temple
Hoo-che
Chimkoey
North Tangow Chain
To-ka-ham
euxham
Houng-mo Lyse
Heong-san
TAM SUI
Soa-lai
Thiong-kan
Sinkang
Chinese Watch Ho.
illage Sau than l
Altoka
(savage Futs)
West Peaks
9000
Middle Western
Dodds
Tang-si-kak
Rge
Tangow Tribes
2800
M: Sylvia
16300
KAMOLAN TING
Steep I (about 1200)
Disbongan
Kaleewan B.
Eubinsui
Heusienchin
Mablipa
Letuk ka
Sau-o-Bay
Dome P
The figures denote heights in feet above high water.
Oulan
Barr-li
23
23
22
Wom
Hiang
Tyan Bang
Tyka
25
25
Chock-e-d
24
Goomatao
West
nhabited
this line is chiefly
Chinese
Peak
G
Chang-hwa
Lo-Kiang701
CHANG HWA
Quang-wa
Great River Favor Langh
Sel-Kiang
SoBaliau
Mon Kiang
4
Ponckam R.
-007
Village
Potao or
Lowpanha
Ching-long-hang
Village
Large Vilage
•Nattau
Village
KIAE HIEN
Kagee
Ong Gi-Tang
Sibucoon
Tribes
Mt Morrison
12,850
High Peak
Tauntong
So-ha-ma- hai
Tribes
Many villages
Bantan Tribes
Ang hay kang
Paw-tay chui
Ka Kaou
Baccolwan
Soulang
• Zinklan
High Peaks
Ung Kang Bay
Keng chu kha
Ti-bah hi
Keng ana
Tentswhy
Hesoa akib
Pangl
P. Kok-si-kon Haccam
Twa na kang
Kok-he-ming TAIWAN Bak-a
pepe-kon
Olt (eluruthy
Kama nasi
Tai-wan-fHIEN
Koo-sid Hoondsu
Ji-chang-hang
Toa-
Hamlet
Laiboon
Hong-sia
Arkon lion Atukar)
Arcontien
170
Unga-kui
Koogia
Saracen H
Bu tai chet
Hamlet Sakha kut
Whalebarte Ji-bang-kum
(Porpui-sui
Ale-Hill (Berthou Fungshan
Kasalong
kow-kon
santim Hen
sing Ching
120
Lambay L
(Seo-liu-kiu)
258
Village
Ban-im sing
19050 Village
-Sa
468
Tang-kang
Pong-liu
Double P
dout 2500
Black Rock B.
Samasana
Cha-la-long
89300
Che-long-ka
Liang Kian B
ở Hong
Kon
σ
Village
Malfaer
Kousakouts
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Botel Tobago
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QL.Botel Tobago
121
London, John Murray, Albemarle St
23
22
122
Edw Weller, Litho.
CHAPTER II.
THE HISTORY OF FORMOSA.
FORMOSA, "the beautiful island," as named by
the Portuguese, has been recalled to notice by the
recent insurrections there, and by the prospect that
it may be destined hereafter to attract more the
attention of foreigners. The Chinese name is
Taewan, which signifies Terrace Bay. Its intrinsic
and relative importance will justify us in recalling
a portion of its history, and in exhibiting a brief
description of the island. Its length, which is
greatest from north to south, includes more than
three degrees of latitude; its breadth, which is at
most about eighty miles, is much narrowed towards
each extremity. The channel which separates Tae-
wan from the Chinese coast is from seventy-five to
one hundred and twenty miles in breadth; in which,
and about twenty-five miles from the island, lie the
Pang-hoo or Pescadores islands. They afford good
harbours, and were long the resort of Chinese pirates,
and of the Dutch, who from this secure station
could easily command the passages on both sides.
38
[CHAP. II..
The Eastern Seas.
Though lying opposite to the Chinese coast, and
within a day's sail of the port of Amoy, yet Formosa
does not appear to have attracted the notice of the
Chinese government till a modern date. According
to their history, they had no knowledge of it till
1430 A.D., in the reign of Sueun-Tsung, the fifth
emperor of the Ming dynasty, when an officer of the
court was driven by a storm upon the island. More
than a century later, a pirate who had been driven.
with his fleet from the Pang-hoo isles by a Chinese
squadron, took refuge on Formosa. The island was
then uncultivated, and inhabited only by savages.
The pirate, who was an ambitious man, seized upon
the island for himself, and the better to fit it for his
purposes, massacred all the inhabitants that fell into
his hands, smearing his vessels with the blood of the
unfortunate natives. In some such way, doubtless,
many Chinese must have gone over to Taewan
before its occupation by the Dutch, which we now
proceed to relate.
The early voyages of the Hollanders to the East
Indies, says Burney in his Voyages, were projected
by individuals or different companies, and prose-
cuted with the spirit of reckless adventurers. The
Dutch East India Company was established in 1602.
Nowhere was the mutual enmity of the Dutch and
Portuguese more actively displayed than in these
CHAP. II.]
39
Formosa.
Indian seas, where commercial jealousy was super-
added to many other causes of animosity. Soon
after the formation of their company, the Dutch
began to contend with the Portuguese for the
Chinese trade. The Portuguese successfully op-
posing their designs, the former in return besieged
Macao in 1622, from which, however, they were
repulsed with much loss. From the tenure by
which the Portuguese held Macao, the Chinese
regarded this attack as an act of hostility against
themselves. But the Dutch accused them of aiding
the Portuguese, and alleged as just cause of com-
plaint, that they were admitted to trade on a fairer
footing than themselves. Frustrated in their
designs on Macao, they therefore sailed for the
Pang-hoo islands. The Chinese having no sufficient
force there, the Dutch took possession of them, and
began a fort, to forward which many Chinese crews
were condemned to labour. Of 1500 workmen thus
employed, it is related that 1300 died in the pro-
gress of the building; "for they seldom had more
than half a pound of rice for a day's allowance."
The Dutch pleaded in vindication the cruel usage
received by their countrymen, who had been im-
prisoned by the Chinese.
This establishment of the Dutch annoyed all
parties; the Spanish, by rendering dangerous the
40
[CHAP. II.
The Eastern Seas.
commerce between Manila and China, the Portu-
guese, by interrupting the trade between Macao and
Japan; and to the Chinese it was
(( an incessant
and intolerable grievance," who therefore com-
menced negociations. The emperor required the
preliminary step of their withdrawing from the
islands; the Dutch claimed "nothing more than
liberty of commerce with China, and the prohibition
of it between the Chinese and the Spaniards in
Manila;" nothing was effected, and the Dutch
recurred to their former means of persuasion.
Eight ships were despatched at one time to scour
the sea and destroy whatever they could seize along
the Chinese coast. Negociations were resumed,
and the Chinese promised that if the Dutch would
withdraw from the Pang-hoo islands they might
fortify themselves upon Formosa without repre-
hension; a reasonable permission, no doubt, from
them who had no right to the islands. In the year
1624 the Dutch concluded peace with the Chinese,
by which liberty of commerce was granted them.
They on their part evacuated the island, sailed to
Formosa, and took possession of a harbour on the
south-western side. The best entrance to it was
narrow and shoal, there being at high water no
more than thirteen feet.
Thus the Dutch entered upon Formosa, a small
CHAP. II.]
41
Occupation by the Dutch.
Japanese colony then resident there soon retired,
and the natives offered no opposition. To defend
their new establishment, a fort and batteries were
built, which protected the principal harbour, Ta-
keäng; this fort was named fort Zealand. For the
defence of the trade between China and Manila, the
Spanish governor of the Philippine Islands fortified
the fort of Kelung in 1626; from which, however,
the Spaniards were subsequently expelled by the
Dutch. Thirty miles from this harbour, on the
western shore, another settlement was formed called
Tam-shwuy. Yet the jurisdiction of the Dutch
extended little beyond the towns and villages in the
neighbourhood of their principal fort. In these
they wisely combined the Dutch and native autho-
rity; "they introduced new laws among them, and
instead of their councils of elders, constituted one of
their chief men supervisor in every village, who
administered justice and was accountable to the
governor of the island." The natives in these
districts were reclaimed from many barbarous
customs, and became attached to the government
of the Dutch.
In 1626, George Candidus, a Protestant divine,
was appointed minister to the settlement; and he
took great pains to introduce Christianity among
the natives. At the governor's request, he gave
42
[CHAP. II.
The Eastern Seas.
his opinion on the prospects of propagating the
Gospel in Formosa. He considered both the dispo-
sitions and circumstances of the people favourable
for their conversion to Christianity. "With good
capacities, they were ignorant of letters; their
superstitions rested only on tradition, or customs to
which they were not strongly attached, and which
had been almost totally changed within the last
sixty years no obstacles were to be apprehended
from their government. God blessed his efforts in
Formosa, so that during a residence of sixteen
months, part of which was occupied in studying the
language, he instructed 120 of the natives in the
Christian religion." The number of Christians, it
was found, daily augmented; the intermarriage of
Dutch and natives was practised; churches and
schools were multiplied, so that in all, many thou-
sands of the islanders were converted to Chris-
tianity and baptized. "But the Dutch governors
in India were cautious of encouraging the conver-
sion of the Formosans, lest it should give offence
to the Japanese, with whom they had commerce,
and by whom Christianity was then heavily perse-
cuted." Thus, as often elsewhere, the interests of
true religion were sacrified upon the altar of Mam-
mon, and the knowledge of salvation withheld for
money.
CHAP. II.]
43
Formosa.
The whole interval of Dutch authority in For-
mosa was a period fraught with calamity to China,
both from the scourge of civil war and foreign
invasion. In 1644, the Mantchou Tartars had
gained the capital, Peking, and the Tartar chief
was acknowledged as Emperor of China by most of
the northern provinces. At the close of the next
year, twelve of the fifteen provinces had submitted
to the usurper. Throughout the whole course of
this long war, the Chinese were emigrating to other
countries, to escape the miseries of their own.
Early in the struggle 25,000 families are said to
have transported themselves to Formosa. The in-
dustry of these strangers gave the island a culti-
vated appearance, and increased the produce of rice
and sugar for exportation. At first the Dutch
encouraged this immigration, and at length were
unable to prevent it; which influx of foreigners.
aided in the final overthrow of the Dutch dominion
in the island. But the unexpected and unheard-of
result, that of Europeans being defeated in contest
with the Chinese, will excuse a minute description,
and demands a brief retracing of some previous
events.
These calamitous and turbulent days produced in
China, as ever elsewhere, some daring spirits, who
rode upon the storm, and whose names are well
44
[CHAP. II.
The Eastern Seas.
known in the history of those times.
None of
these was more remarkable than the half-piratical,
half-patriotic naval chief, Ching Ching-kung, better
known as Koxinga. His father was once a servant
of the Portuguese at Macao, and was instructed
in the Christian religion, and baptized by the name
of Nicholaus. From a petty trader, he grew, by
foreign trade, to be the richest merchant in China;
and afterwards equipped, at his own expense, a
small fleet against the Tartars. His success gradu-
ally drew around him a vast number of Chinese
vessels, till he became commander of as formidable
a fleet as ever sailed these seas. But, after many
battles, the Tartar chief invited him to court, and
offered him the dignity of king, which he accepted,
leaving the command of the fleet to his son
Koxinga, whilst himself was doomed to perpetual
imprisonment at Peking. Koxinga, with more
than his father's valour, opposed the usurper, and
continued faithful to his country. During several
years he scoured the seas with his formidable fleet,
descended upon the coast, and, with the aid of a
land force, retook some cities, and defeated the
enemy in several engagements. But in three or
four years the Tartars, by force and bribes, re-
covered all, and drove him from the coast to the
numerous islands which line the shore. In this
CHAP. II.]
45
Koxinga.
state of affairs, the larger and fertile island of
Formosa became the object on which the exiled
chieftain rested his last hopes. The Dutch foresaw
the danger; they were aware that the agents of
Koxinga held secret correspondence with the resi-
dent Chinese; and the garrison at Fort Zealand was
accordingly increased in 1650. For several suc-
ceeding years there was no open hostility, and
Koxinga being fully employed against the Tartars,
neglected Formosa; yet dissatisfaction was mutually
increasing between the Dutch and the chief. But
after his severe defeat in the siege of Nanking, he
had no resource left but to obtain the island; his
followers were dispersing to procure subsistence,
and his fleet could not be kept together. He now
began to look in earnest at the "beautiful isle.”
The Dutch also increased their vigilance; took
some of the most considerable emigrants as hos-
tages, arrested and tortured others who were sus-
pected. At the earnest request of Cozet, governor
of Formosa, twelve ships were despatched from
Batavia in 1660, with large reinforcements, and
orders that if the alarm at Formosa proved ground-
less, the fleet should proceed to Macao. The garri-
son at Taewan now consisted of 1500 men, a force
which the admiral thought superior to any number
whatever of Chinese troops. A categorical answer
46
[CHAP. II.
The Eastern Seas.
was demanded of Koxinga, "whether he was for
peace or war?" The wily chief replied by letter,
that "he had not the least thought of war against
the company.
To remove suspicion, he sent
several merchant ships to Taewan; but as he still
continued his vast preparations for war in his
stronghold at Haemun (Amoy) and Kemun, the
The
governor's suspicions were not removed.
majority of his council, however, were of opinion
that there was no present danger, and all the ships
were therefore ordered away to their respective
places. The admiral returned to Batavia, and
accused the governor of unreasonable apprehen-
sions. The council, wearied with the expenses, and
with the false alarms of the governor for several
years, suspended him from all office, and ordered
him to Batavia to defend himself. M. Clenk, his
successor, sailed for Formosa in June, 1661.
Widely different from these conjectures were the
events then passing at the island. No sooner had
the Dutch fleet departed, than Koxinga and his
forces were in motion. He embarked 20,000 or
25,000 of his best troops in a great number of
vessels, and appeared before Fort Zealand, and,
assisted by thousands of his countrymen on shore,
began to land. He first stationed a number of his
vessels between Fort Zealand and Fort Province,
CHAP. II.]
47
Attack on the Forts.
on the opposite side of the entrance, and occupied
with his forces a point which would cut off the
communication between the forts.
The governor seeing this, ordered out 240 men to
dislodge the enemy from this post. Here was the
first trial of their strength. By the time of their
coming up, 4,000 Chinese had already occupied
the place; but so confident were the Dutch that
the enemy would not stand the fire, that they
immediately attacked them.
(6 'But so far were
the Chinese from giving ground, that they returned
the fire with musketry and arrows, and sent a
detachment to attack us in the flanks. This
alarmed the soldiers, who threw down their arms
and fled, leaving the captain and nineteen men
to the mercy of the enemy. One half only of
their company reached the fort alive.
the defence by sea any better. The four ships
in port attacked the junks, and sunk a few; but
one of the four was burned by the Chinese fire-
ships, and the rest escaped from the harbour, to
which they all returned again but one, which
sailed away for Batavia." By passing around the
Philippines, she reached Batavia in fifty-three
days; the first instance of a passage down against
the monsoon. The Chinese landed without any
further opposition, and in four hours' time cut
Nor was
48
[CHAP. II.
The Eastern Seas.
off all communication between the forts, and
also between Fort Zealand and the open country.
Koxinga now summoned the fort, threatening to
put all to fire and sword, if they did not surrender
immediately.
A consultation was immediately held, and it was
agreed to send deputies to Koxinga, offering to sur-
render Fort Province rather than to lose all. They
went to his camp, then consisting of about 12,000
men, who were besieging Fort Province. They
were armed with three different sorts of weapons;
the first, of bows and arrows; the second, of
scimitars and targets only; and the third, of back-
swords and pikes, three or four feet long, with
broad pointed irons at the ends. The deputies
were conducted into a spacious tent, where they
waited till Koxinga was at leisure. He meanwhile
was employed in combing his long shining black
"This
hair, a great ornament among the Chinese.
done, they were introduced into his tent, all hung
with blue; he himself was seated in an elbow
chair, behind a four-square table; round about him
attended all the chief commanders, clad in long
robes, without arms, and in great silence, with a
most awful countenance." Koxinga replied, that
Formosa had always belonged to China, and now
the Chinese wanted it, the foreigners must quit the
CHAP. II.] Surrender of Fort Province.
49
island immediately. If not, let them only hoist
the red flag. Next morning the red flag waved
over Fort Zealand, but Fort Province was sur-
rendered with all its garrison and cannon.
To prepare for a more vigorous defence, all the
men able to bear arms were taken into the fort,
and the city set on fire, but not so effectually as to
prevent the Chinese from preserving many of the
buildings which afforded them a shelter. They
also brought up thither twenty-eight cannon to
bear against the fort; but they were so galled by
the fire of the Dutch, that the streets were covered
with the slain, and the besieged making a success-
ful sally, spiked the enemy's guns. Koxinga now
finding all his attacks fruitless, began a close
blockade, and meanwhile made the open country
feel his rage. He made the Dutch, especially the
ministers and schoolmasters, prisoners, because
they were suspected of secretly encouraging their
parishioners to kill the Chinese residing among
them; some were crucified by the Chinese, and
their crosses erected in their respective villages.
One individual case of this kind, as related by
Mieuhoff, is so Regulus-like, that we present it
entirely to the reader.
"Among the Dutch prisoners taken in the coun-
try was one Mr. Hambrocock, a minister. This
T
50
[CHAP. II
The Eastern Seas.
T
1
man was sent by Koxinga to the governor, to
propose terms for surrendering the fort; but in
case of refusal, vengeance would be taken on
the Dutch prisoners. Mr. Hambrocock came into
the castle, being forced to leave his children and
wife behind him as hostages, which sufficiently
proved that if he failed in his negociations, he had
nothing but death to expect from the chieftain.
Yet was he so far from persuading the garrison to
surrender, that he encouraged them to a brave
defence by hopes of relief, assuring them that
Koxinga had lost many of his best ships and
soldiers, and began to weary of the siege. When
he had ended, the council of war left it to his
choice to stay with them, or return to the camp,
where he could expect nothing but present death;
everyone intreated him to stay. He had two
daughters within the castle, who hung upon his
neck, overwhelmed with grief and tears to see
their father ready to go where they knew he must
be sacrificed by the merciless enemy. But he
represented to them that having left his wife and
two other children in the camp as hostages,
nothing but death could attend them if he returned
not. So unlocking himself from his daughters'
arms, and exhorting everybody to a resolute
defence, he returned to the camp, telling them at
CHAP. II.] Massacre of Dutch Prisoners.
51
parting, that he hoped he should prove serviceable
to his poor fellow prisoners.
66
Koxinga received his answer sternly: then
causing it to be rumoured that the prisoners
excited the Formosans to rebel against him,
ordered all the Dutch prisoners to be killed; this
was accordingly done, some being beheaded, others
killed in a more barbarous manner, to the number
of 500, their bodies stripped quite naked, and
buried fifty and sixty in a hole; nor were the
women and children spared, many of them likewise
being slain, though some of the best were pre-
served for the use of the commanders, and the
rest sold to the common soldiers. Happy was she
that fell to the lot of an unmarried man, being
thereby freed from vexations by the Chinese
women, who are very jealous of their husbands.
Among the slain were Messrs. Hambrocock, Mus,
and Wenshain, clergymen, and many schoolmasters,
who were all beheaded."
Thus ended that tragical scene.
Two days after the council at Batavia had
censured Coyet for his fears, and had dispatched
his successor Clenk to Formosa, the "Maria "
arrived with the news from Formosa. They im-
mediately revoked the censure and suspension, and
fitted out ten ships with 700 soldiers for the
E 2
52
[CHAP. II.
The Eastern Seas.
island; but Clenk arrived first off Taewan, where
instead of the rich and peaceful station he had
flattered himself with obtaining, he saw the red
flag flying, and hundreds of Chinese vessels lying
in the northern roads. He anchored in the
southern, sent his despatches ashore, did not land
himself, but sailed for Japan, and was heard of no
more at Formosa. Soon the succours from Batavia
arrived, and the besieged began to act on the
offensive. They were unsuccessful, however, in
attempting to dislodge the enemy from the city of
Zelandia, and suffered the loss of two ships and
many men in the attempt; the garrisons were now
ordered from the two northern ports, Kelung and
Tamshwuy to increase the force of the besieged..
The women, children, and other useless persons
were also sent to Batavia." These preparations
checked the approaches of Koxinga for the present,
which led to an injudicious act on the part of the
besieged. The governor received letters from the
viceroy of Fuhkeën, requesting his co-operation in
expelling the remains of Koxinga's forces from the
coast, and promising his whole aid afterwards to
the Dutch at Formosa. Five ships were therefore
dispatched for this purpose, but three were lost in
a storm, and the remainder returned to Batavia.
This act was just to the wish of Koxinga, and
CHAP. II.]
53
Surrender of Taewan.
led the besieged to despair of holding out much
longer. A descrter from the Dutch encouraged
the besiegers, and directed them where to press the
attack. They now assailed the port from three
near batteries, and notwithstanding opposition,
after many assaults, succeeded in making a breach.
Then the besieged began to deliberate, and the
majority of the council agreed that the fort was
untenable. The governor yielded his opinion to
the majority, surrendered the public property, but
was allowed to embark their private property for
Batavia in their only remaining ship. Thus, after
a siege of nine months, the loss of 1600 men, the
Dutch returned to Java; "where the governor and
council of Formosa, after all the hazards and
incredible hardships they had undergone, were
imprisoned, their goods confiscated, and the gover-
nor condemned to perpetual banishment in one of
the Banda Isles-but was finally recalled by the
Prince of Orange." Thus, after thirty years' dura-
tion, ended the Dutch authority in Formosa, in
1662.
Freed from all opposers, Koxinga now distributed
garrisons throughout the western parts of Taewan.
and established an undisputed dominion there.
He constituted himself sovereign of the island,
assumed a princely style, and fixed his palace and
54
[CHAP. II.
The Eastern Seas.
court at Zelandia.
Then the island assumed a new
aspect; for with their proverbial industry he intro-
duced also the Chinese laws, customs, and form of
government. He even looked beyond "the beau-
tiful island" to the rich clusters of islands which
almost bordered on his narrow domain. He had
threatened the Philippines and was preparing for
an expedition against the Spanish there, when he
was arrested by death only two years after his
gaining Formosa, and left his possessions to his son.
Ten years after, when the provinces of Kwang tung
and Fuhkeën revolted against the Emperor Kanghe,
this son resolved to join the king of Fuhkeën, but
not being acknowledged by the latter as a sovereign
prince, he declared war against the king on the
spot, defeated him in several battles, and weakened
him so that he was obliged again to submit to the
emperor and receive the tonsure. Kanghe now
abolished the title of king, and appointed a
governor over Chckeäng and Fuhkeën. This man
seized upon the Panghoo Isles, and proclaimed
general amnesty to all who submitted to the em-
peror. This policy had the desired effect of
inducing many Formosan emigrants to return to
China and of weakening the enemy upon the island,
till it was finally surrendered to Kanghe by the
grandson of Koxinga. Thus ended the sovereignty
CHAP. II.]
55
Terrible Typhoon.
erected by that chief, and Formosa passed into the
hands of the Chinese government in 1683.
Little change ensued in the government or
customs upon this change of masters. The imperial
authority on the island though often assailed by
insurrections during the last 150 years, is still
maintained. The lands possessed by the Chinese
in Formosa were at that time divided into three
districts; the subject natives composed forty-five
towns or villages. Little can be said with certainty
of the events which have since transpired there.
#
The two most prominent events are the destruc-
tive inundation in 1782 and the rebellion in 1788.
The official report of the former disaster states,
that in May (which is not the month for typhoons)
a wind, rain, and swell of the sea together for
twelve hours, threatened to overwhelm the island.
On its cessation, the public buildings, granaries,
barracks, and salt warehouses were found totally
destroyed, and most private houses were in ruins;
of twenty-seven ships of war, twelve had dis-
appeared, and left not a piece of wreck behind.
The emperor directed that all the houses thrown
down should be rebuilt at his expense (i.c., from
the public treasury), and provisions supplied to the
people. "I should feel much pain," said he,
"were one of them to be neglected." Subterranean
56
[CHAP. II..
The Eastern Seas.
convulsions may have conspired with the winds to-
aggravate this calamity.
This event was followed six years later by the
most important and bloody rebellion which Formosa
has yet witnessed. The particulars cannot be
given, but its suppression by cruel punishment and
almost indiscriminate proscription, tarnished the
name of Keënlung the emperor. M. de Grammont
states in a letter of March, 1789, that the troubles
on Formosa are ended at last, but at the cost of a
shameful and expensive war to China. She has
lost at least a hundred thousand men, destroyed by
disease or the sword of the rebels; and she has ex-
pended more than two millions of taels. The only
advantage that she has secured is the recapture
from the Formosans of the two places they had
seized. According to the returns of the Chinese
general to the emperor, the renowned rebel leader,
Lin Chwangwan, has been captured and cut into a
thousand pieces; but according to private advices
the rebel still survives, and the real sufferer was only
a Formosan bearing the same name.

Page 57.
UNIL
3
OF
MICH
THE CAPTURE OF AMOY BY THE MANDARIN FORCES, 1853.
CHAPTER III.
THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF AMOY—JOURNEY UP THE NORTH RIVER-
DRAGGING A SCHOONER OFF THE BEACH IN FORMOSA-VISIT TO,
THE MISSION STATIONS S. W. OF AMOY THE FOO-CHOW STATION
—KELUNG-SAU-O-BAY -THE LOO-CHOO ISLANDS-TAM-SUI.
-
On the 14th of December the "Dwarf" sailed
for Amoy, and arrived there the next evening
having had to steam up close inshore on the China
coast for a short distance, as the N.E. monsoon was
too strong to allow her to fetch across with sail
alone. The wind generally moderates when close
inshore; small vessels therefore always creep up
along the land when the N.E. monsoon blows very
strong. They also avoid the current, which runs
the same way that the wind blows in the Formosa
channel.
At Amoy this time I met the Rev. Dr. T—, an
American medical missionary, whom I knew when I
was a midshipman in a brig in 1853, during the
dreadful massacre that took place at that
when the city was taken by assault by the Imperial
troops, from the rebels after a long siege. On this
me
occasion the massacre had become so revolting, that
58
[CHAP. III.
The Eastern Seas.
even round the two English men-of-war that were
lying in the harbour, they were cutting off heads
and throwing people overboard from the junks, and
then spearing them in the water from boats, as if it
were by way of amusement. At last our people
became so enraged at the sight, that it was put a
stop to on the water with a strong hand, by the
interference of the British consul, and the com-
manders of H.M. ships "Hermes," and "Bittern."
They sent their boats to prevent further bloodshed
by taking the Chinese prisoners out of the man-
darin junks, and giving them safety on board their
own vessels and a merchant junk, to the number of
nearly 700 people. Although the slaughter was
stopped on the water, it was still going on in the
city, where the government troops were butchering
men, women, and children, without regard to their
belonging to the non-combatant part of the inhabi-
tants; the real rebels having fled in their junks in
the morning as the government troops climbed over
the walls. At that time Dr. Twas living in a
house outside of the foreign settlement, where we
had a guard of marines for its protection; the
merchants' houses being all on the side of the
harbour near the city, and not on Kulangsue island
as at present; and the settlement was further
protected by having a gate at each end to prevent
CHAP. III.]
59
Amoy Recaptured.
the Chinese from entering. At the risk of his life,
he went into the street near his house and gave
shelter to fugitives from the scene of bloodshed.
I well remember being sent to him with a message
about the wounded men in his house, and seeing
the floor of every room, as well as the verandah,
covered with Chinese hacked about in a dreadful
manner. I believe about sixty were there. He
took care of and fed them for several days, until
they could be sent to a place of safety in company
with those that were rescued by Her Majesty's
ships. They were all eventually sent to that part
of the main-land which was still in possession of
the rebels, where they would be in safety. On the
mandarin admiral being asked the reason of this
great massacre of townspeople, he said that as they
had been so many months capturing the city, and
having killed so few rebels during the siege, it was
necessary now they had taken it by assault, to
report a sufficient number of killed to the emperor
to prevent themselves falling into disgrace.
On Christmas Day we had the usual service on
board, and the lower deck was very tastefully
decorated by the ship's company, and the tables
well spread with good cheer. Everyone appeared
to enjoy himself much, and the men were pleased
to see many ladies and visitors from the shore
60
[CHAP. III.
The Eastern Seas.
to look at their decorations, and walk round the
lower deck with the officers, tasting the pudding,
&c., while the banjec played the "Roast Beef of
Old England."
On the 27th of December, a party of us went
with two covered boats to examine the rivers near
the town of Hai-têng, about eighteen miles from
Amoy. This was an important city once with two
walls, and in some places even three, all of them
being about twelve feet high and six feet wide.
On the outer wall not far from the river there was
a pagoda, which was probably built for a watch-
tower. The effect from the top of this pagoda
looking over the interior of the city was very
strange, as the houses have been so long destroyed
that the trees among the ruins have grown to a
great height, and the few houses now inhabited
have the appearance of hamlets among trees and
fields.
Hai-têng was first destroyed by the Tartars in
1660, but was afterwards rebuilt. A rebellion
broke out here, and it was thoroughly destroyed by
the mandarins when they took it about the year
1854, and most of the people who could not escape
were killed. In sieges by the Chinese, the walls of
the cities often suffer little, but after the cities.
have fallen, the houses inside are pillaged and
CHAP. III.]
61
Vicinity of Amoy.
:
destroyed. It is quite saddening to anyone who
travels much in China to see the number of cities
in this desolate state. The country round Hai-
têng is
very fertile with rice fields, and is studded
with villages. The hills are rugged and barren;
some of them run abruptly down to the plains, and

PUMPING WATER INTO THE RICE-FIELDS.
are covered with tombs. In the alluvial soil at the
base of the hills, great quantities of peaches,
oranges, and pomelloes are grown. The plains are
intersected with canals, and it is difficult for a
stranger to find his way about. We also examined
the north river as far as the Tang-kang bridge,
about twenty miles from Amoy. This bridge was
built during the thirteenth century, and is com-
posed of very large blocks of stone; some of them
measured fifty-five feet long, and five feet square at
the end. Near the junction of the river there is a
62
[CHAP. III.
The Eastern Seas.
large town called Chor-bey which has a consider-
able junk trade, as the cargoes from the large sea-
going junks are transferred here to smaller boats to
be carried up the river. It is painfully dirty, and
has open cesspools in the streets, making the air
most offensive. Notwithstanding this, people say
that the town is usually very healthy; open cess-
pools are not considered so dangerous by the
Chinese as closed ones. We also visited some of
the curious square castles built by the Tartars
about 1660 A.D. to hem Koxinga in, who had
possession of Amoy and the country round for
about thirty miles, and who held it against all their
forces for many years. The castles are now in
ruins; they were built a few miles apart, extend-
ing from Red Bay on the south, nearly to Chinchew
on the north. There is a Protestant mission chapel
at Chor-bey, and one also at Pechuia, which is a
far cleaner town than Chor-bey, but with less trade.
A seven storied pagoda, made of stone, stands on
the top of the Nanti-shan mountain and forms an
excellent landmark for vessels bound to Amoy; the
mountain being 1720 feet high, can be seen a very
long distance. I could find no record of the date
when this pagoda was built. A few stones mark
the site of a temple and fort that were close to it.
Tradition relates that the fort was built about 200
CHAP. III.]
63
New Year's Day.
B.C. by a king of this part of China to overawe
the natives. It is a stiff walk to the top, but the
view well repays the trouble of climbing there.
On New Year's Day every one visited his
friends. It seemed a very sociable custom, and I
was told the American part of the community
originated it at Amoy. The Chinese are very
punctilious about their own visits at the Chinese
New Year's Day, which is kept as a holiday, and
also several days after. All debts have to be paid
by the New Year, and to prevent incurring the
dishonour of not doing so, those in debt sell or
pawn their goods very cheaply a short time before.
The Chinese New Year falls later than ours, and
each year the day which will be kept is notified
beforehand by the mandarins.
The Amoy races came off on the 9th of January,
and were very good fun. They were run by ponies,
some of which went capitally. Our doctor rode,
and won two races, much to the delight of all our
bluejackets that were present, who, of course, had
backed their own officer. After the horse, or
rather pony races, there were foot races, and run-
ning in sacks, which afforded great amusement.
There is a curious rocking-stone in the garden of
a joss-house in the suburbs of Amoy, weighing
about five or six tons. The priests are glad to

64
The Eastern Seas.
[CHAP. III.
exhibit it, and place a cup of water on the stone
to show the motion when you give it a good
push.
There are great quantities of graves outside the
city, and also small tombs for the bones of those
POTTED ANCESTORS, AMOY.
that have been collected and placed in earthen
pots.
Some of our officers had tolerable duck shooting
about six miles from the town; there were also
plenty of wild geese in the neighbourhood, but
very wary and difficult to get near, unless you put
on the straw coat and hat of a Chinese boatman,
CHAP. III.] Expedition up the North River.
65
and crept up to them in a sampan, as they appeared
to take but little notice of the natives. One even-
ing our ship's company gave a Christy Minstrel
entertainment at the club, which had been kindly
lent them by the residents for the occasion. As
we had several good actors among the men, it
afforded great amusement to our guests.
On the 13th, one of the officers and myself
started in the whale boat with four men, having
the skiff in company, which we took it in turns to
pull or sail, and in which were placed some of our
sleeping things. We examined the short cut, or
passage, to the North river, and then ascended it
till we got beyond the first rapids, which are about
sixty miles from the city of Amoy. Every night
we encamped on the bank of the river under a tent
made of a sail spread over the boat's mast, and
secured by oars to the necessary height. The men
slept in the boat, as they preferred to coil up in
her under a tarpaulin. We had a spanking breeze
with us, and sailed up nearly all the way, passing
under the Tang-kang bridge, which I have described
before. A fleet of large tea boats accompanied us,
and were on their return from delivering tea at
Amoy. Before dark we always anxiously looked
out for a dry place to camp on, as the twilight was
short. Although we found the country people
F
66
[CHAP. III.
The Eastern Seas.
very civil, we avoided the villages as much as pos-
sible in consequence of the crowd round the fire to
see Jack cook, to smell, and make remarks on the
savoury dishes; and afterwards when eating our
suppers it was difficult to keep elbow room, so
eager were they to see everything. Beyond this,
we experienced no rudeness, but on the contrary
we sometimes found them very obliging; for in-
stance, on one occasion we got short of charcoal for
cooking, and on my asking one of the Chinese to
get some more for us, he went away, and returned
in a short time with a basket full of it, and would
not take any payment whatever. We found the
current of the flood tide to extend only about three
miles above Tang-kang bridge; beyond that the
current running down was merely ckecked, and
caused the water to rise while the flood tide was
making below. The country for the first fifty
miles consisted of flat fertile plains or valleys,
hemmed in by mountains. Rice, sweet potatoes,
and sugar were the usual crops; but in some places
there were deliciously cool looking groves
of
orange
trees, and pomelloes which gave a most agreeable
shade. A range of mountains comes down close to
the Tang-kang bridge, but after passing this range
there is a splendid rich plain, till you arrive at the
"Gorge," which is about thirty miles beyond.
CHAP. III.] Sailing through the Gorge.
67
Here the cliffs come down perpendicularly to the
river, which is so narrowed by them that it looks
as if the mountain had been cleft asunder by
some great convulsion to make a channel for the
water. The current in the Gorge runs very fast,
and it is difficult to stem it. Although the tea
boats were so crowded together here that collisions
were frequent, yet the greatest good humour pre-
vailed among the crews, who carefully kept their
boats from hurting their neighbour's by pushing
them apart with long bamboo poles, and were par-
ticularly attentive in preventing our whaler or skiff
from being hurt: the latter gave them great amuse-
ment as she sailed along like a perfect toy with her
small triangular sail, and kept up with the large
boats with little difficulty. The river is very deep
in the Gorge, but shallow where it widens in the
plains. After passing through the Gorge there is
another level valley, but smaller than the last one;
after a few miles the mountains commence again,
and the whole country from this place gradually
rises, and causes a succession of rapids in the river.
Most of the towns and villages have a castle or fort
for the natives to drive their cattle into, and to
take refuge in themselves from any attack by
another village. These feuds are of constant occur-
rence; in fact, a blood feud is hardly ever made up
F 2
68
[CHAP. III
The Eastern Seas.
again. Polam was the largest town we passed.
It is about forty miles from Amoy, and is a
thriving place, in consequence of the cargoes being
transferred from large boats to be distributed over
the country by small flat-bottomed ones drawing
very little water. Some of the rapids took a long
time to ascend.
With our boats, we had to get
out and pull them up, walking alongside. The
large tea boats were tracked up by a rope from the
mast, the majority of the crew pulling on the end
of it from the towing-path, the rest pushing from
the boat with long bamboo poles shod with iron—
at some places the crews of several boats united to
get them up one at a time. Where the water
admitted of it, and the current was strong, we also
tracked our boats up.
The first part of our return journey was quickly
made, and the sensation when shooting down a
rapid was very exciting. The rest of the journey
was not so pleasant, as we had a hard pull against
a very strong breeze, with disagreeable rainy
weather.
On the 20th of January, the ship ran over to
Formosa under sail, and anchored off Takow. The
anchor was hardly down before an officer belonging
to the British consulate, and another gentleman,
came on board and requested assistance for a
CHAP. III.]
69
Dragging a Schooner Off.
schooner that had run on shore about twelve miles
to the southward. We weighed immediately under
sail, and soon ran down to the schooner and anchored
close to her. It was a sandy beach where she was,
with a nasty surf running on it. The captain who
came on board on a catamaran said that his vessel
had been drifted close to the beach in a fog, and
that on his seeing the surf, he had tried to put the
schooner's head off from the shore, but there being
little wind at the time, she had drifted into the surf
before he could let go his anchor, which he had
done directly he found he could not get her head
round. On this coast the lead gives little warning,
the water shoals rapidly after you once get ten
fathoms of water, and in some places this would
beonly a short distance from the shore. Ves-
sels should therefore be very careful in approach-
ing this part in thick or foggy weather. The
schooner was a new vessel and very strongly
built with iron knees. She had no cargo on
board, only stone ballast. The captain and my-
self landed to examine her, as he thought she
was driven too high up on the beach to get off
again. She was nearly broadside on the sand,
with only one foot of water at her bow, and three
feet at the stern. When afloat she drew seven and
a half feet, the rise of tide would be about three
70
[CHAP. III.
The Eastern Seas.
feet, and it was low water when I landed. About
200 or 300 natives and Chinese were waiting
patiently on the beach for the crew to desert her,
so that they might pillage without any opposition.
The crew had evidently made up their minds on the
subject, as they had all their clothes packed, ready to
leave her. I noticed that every time a heavy sea
struck the stern, the vessel lifted a little; I there-
fore concluded from this that she might be got
off, by bringing a very heavy strain on her so as
to pull her stern round a little every time she
lifted. Having sounded carefully from the schooner
to the "Dwarf," we weighed and moved in to three
fathoms water, where we anchored, and then, by
means of catamarans, the surf being too heavy to
use our boats with safety, we got two large hawsers
from our stern to that of the schooner, and veered
our ship in as close as we could with safety.
Everything being ready, and all the ballast having
been taken out of the schooner, we steamed ahead,
at first slowly, then with the full power of the
engines, the ship's company heaving on our cable
at the same time. At last the hawsers carried
away, and we could do nothing more that tide. As
the weather remained fine we tried again the next
day, having taken up a better position with the
"Dwarf;" we also hired a quantity of Chinese, to
CHAP. III.]
71
Tong-sang.
assist by coming on board the "Dwarf" and
hauling on a tackle secured to our cable. At last
when the tide was at its greatest height, the stern
of the schooner began to move round a little as
each wave struck her. This made us redouble our
efforts, till the stern was towards us, when she made
a sudden start off, to our delight and the dis-
appointment of all the expectant pillagers, who
disappeared over the sand hills in a few minutes.
We towed her to Takow in safety, and on examina-
tion found she had not been strained at all, being
so well built. Although the schooner was saved on
this occasion, yet I was sorry to hear on the last
visit I made to Takow, that this vessel had been
caught in a typhoon in the Formosa channel in
1873, and had foundered with all hands.
We remained at Takow a few days and then
visited Swatow, and after that went to Amoy again,
calling in at the Chinese town and harbour of
Tong-sang on our way. It is a walled town and
must have been a place of great importance once,
although it is very poor now, with but little trade.
A Buddhist priest came on board and offered to pray
to Buddha for a fair wind for the ship, or anything
else anybody wanted, in consideration of a small
gratuity. I do not think he was much patronised
on board the "Dwarf," although he showed some
72
[CHAP. III.
The Eastern Seas.
very curious certificates, given him by other vessels
that had patronised him.
He
We arrived at Amoy on the 23rd of February,
and the next day the consul and myself visited the
Chinese admiral on official business. He was a fine
old Chinaman, and held the rank of commander-in-
chief of sea and land forces in this district.
was zealous in the service of his country, and not-
withstanding great opposition from other officials,
improved the Chinese war junks very much, by
putting copper on the bottom of them, and sup-
plying them with chain cables and iron anchors
like foreign vessels, instead of those of wood with
a large piece of stone fastened to them like they
had before. This took place before the Chinese
government had commenced to buy and build
steamers themselves, and when the originator of
any innovation ran a great risk of falling into dis-
grace. We afterwards called on the Tauti, or civil
governor. The Yamuns of both these mandarins
were very spacious, with one court opening into
another, planted with trees and flowers, and having
many birds and other animals in cages, gold fish in
ponds, and also grotesque figures carved in stone.
The rooms were very draughty, and during our
interview, the soldiers and retainers remained in the
hall below the dais (or upper end of it), very
CHAP. III.] Visit of the Tauti of Amoy.
73
similar to the description of a nobleman's reception
in the middle ages in Europe. Tea, wine, and
cakes were served, and pipes also produced.
On the 6th, the Tauti returned my visit on board
the "Dwarf." He made most minute inquiries
about the cost of the ship in stores, wages for the
crew, provisions for a month, and also about the
quantity of coal consumed for the speed and
distance done. Whatever information he obtained
was noted down by an official, I believed as some
sort of an estimate of what ought to be the expense
of keeping up their own gun-boats, which they find
very costly. The next day the Chinese admiral
came on board; he examined the guns and arms
most minutely, and seemed very intelligent by the
inquiries he made.
In consequence of the great increase in the
number of coasting steamers of late years, the large
junk trade that formerly existed at Amoy has
become considerably reduced. From the appear-
ance of those that still remain, and from the very
indifferent crews they have, it is easy to believe in
the very heavy loss of junks that takes place in the
typhoon season, or even in strong N.E. gales. The
crews are merely shipped for the voyage, and the
great proportion of junks are old and so worn out
that it is a matter of surprise they can get any one
71
[CHAP. III.
The Eastern Seas.
to go to sea in them. By the chin-chining joss
and beating of gongs that take place on their sail-
ing, even on the shortest coasting voyage, and the
great rejoicings that take place on their return,
they evidently fully appreciate the risk they run.
While at Amoy this time I accompanied the
Rev. Mr. M., of the Presbyterian mission, to visit
some of their stations in the district S. W. of Amoy.
As far as the town of Pechuia we went in a house
boat belonging to the society, fitted up with two
sleeping places. After this we changed into a
smaller boat for ascending the river to a village
called Kwar-jem. As the weather was warm and
pleasant we slept very comfortably in the boat.
We passed numbers of cargo and passenger boats
on the river, and the fields were quite alive with
labourers cultivating the rice, and men, women,
and children pumping water from the river into
the fields by chain-pumps worked by treading with
the feet, like a treadmill. When the water in the
creeks gets too low for cargo boats to float down,
the crews of several of them unite in making a
dam across the stream a short distance below the
place where the boats are. This collects the water
in the stream till the boats float to the dam, which
they then break through; and when the boats
ground again they make another dam, and so on
CHAP. III.]
75
Journey to Thir-bouy.
until they get into deep water. Although this is
a slow process, it is not so slow as one would
imagine, on account of the boats being flat-bot-
tomed and drawing little water.
At Kwar-jem there is a tower for the defence of
the villagers; it is square, with a court in the
centre, and rooms all round, and is several stories
in height. The village is large and dirty, and
has a Protestant chapel in it. From this place
we walked to a village called Thir-bouy, about
eighteen miles inland in a S.W. direction, where
we put up at a chapel belonging to the mission,
which has two rooms attached for the use of the
minister. It is situated in a valley between the
hills, and has a mud wall round it. The people at
all the villages in the country seem very simple
and quiet, not near so restless and annoyingly
inquisitive as those in the towns. We passed few
villages on our route, which led over rocky hills
covered with scrub, and there was but little cultiva-
tion to be seen.
At about nine o'clock in the evening, as I was
sitting at the open window thinking what a peace-
ful, quiet looking place this village was, after the
bustle of the ship and the port, suddenly all the
animals-dogs, cats, pigs, and cattle-set up their
own particular noise to the utmost extent; even an
76
[CHAP. III.
The Eastern Seas.
owl joined in the din by hooting as loud as pos-
sible. Suddenly a woman screamed, and every
villager that had been outside the house dashed in
and shut doors and windows as quick as possible.
Presently one or two of them ventured out here
and there, and then Mr. M. came in and said a
tiger had been in the village, but had left again
without doing any damage, as everything was for-
tunately under shelter. The village soon returned
to its usual quiet state; but this did not last long,
because about half an hour after out dashed all the
men from their houses, and rushed frantically out
of the village. This proceeding was caused by a
watchman giving the alarm that thieves were steal-
ing the potatoes in their fields. They were suc-
cessful in catching one man from a neighbouring
village, whom they bound and brought in in triumph.
The Chinese steal potatoes and fruit from each
other so frequently, that every field of any size has
a watch-house, built of straw or bamboo, just large
enough for a man to lie in and look out for thieves.
For this reason it is difficult to get good fruit, as it
is picked and sent to market long before it is ripe,
to prevent its being stolen. My illusions concern-
ing the peacefulness of the country villages in
China were thus rudely and effectually dispelled.
Of late years tigers have increased very much in
CHAP. III.] Mission Chapel at Thir-bouy.
77
this district, and often make a raid into a village,
carrying off pigs and dogs. I was informed that
within a radius of ten miles, on an average, a man,
woman, or child was carried off every month by the
tigers. In the previous year, when Mr. M. was
returning by a night journey, a tiger must have
followed his party through the hills, because they
passed a roadside inn about daybreak where they
had noticed a woman lighting the fire to prepare
the rice for early travellers. (The fire is generally
outside the inn, with a large boiler over it.) The
woman was carried off soon after they passed, and
no traces of her were found.
On Sunday there were about 120 Chinese at the
chapel, some of whom had come from a long dis-
tance, bringing their dinners with them. Many of
the men nursed their little children, and did it
very well. They formed a very attentive congre-
gation, many of them could read the service, and
all joined in singing the hymns fervently.
At 1.40 A.M. on the 18th we commenced our
return journey with several coolies and other
people who wished to go with us, as a large party
gives greater safety. Mr. M. gave a short but
impressive prayer before starting; and as it was
quite dark, with no moon, we had torches of pine
to light us on the way and scare the tigers off;
78
[CHAP. III.
The Eastern Seas.
altogether the effect was very strange as we tra-
velled along the mountain paths in single file, from
the fitful glare thrown by the torches on the
Chinese, the rocks, and the trees overhanging the
path.
On the 23rd of March, the ship left for Swatow.
We sailed down quietly with light variable winds
until we got to the Lamock Islands, where we lay
becalmed. At about 7 P.M. a mist appeared in the
N.E., which came down rapidly on us with every
appearance of bad weather; sail was taken in and
the position of the ship carefully noted. At 8 P.M.
the squall struck us with great violence, and per-
fectly blinding with rain, making it very difficult
to run through the islands and anchor in a safe
place for the night. The next morning we got
to Swatow, and finding everything quiet in the
neighbourhood sailed across to Formosa, where we
arrived on the 10th of April. On anchoring at
Takow, I was informed that a junk had arrived
from the Pescadore Islands, and reported that a
vessel was on shore there. At the same time the
news arrived that the steamer "Hailoon " was on
shore on Breaker Point on the China coast. As
the Pescadore Islands were the nearest, we went to
Makung at once, the principal town of the group,
and the residence of a mandarin, to whom we took
CHAP. III.] The Steamer "Hailoon."
79
letters from the mandarin at Takow, requesting
him to give us every assistance and information
about the wreck. On communicating with this
official, he assured us that no wreck had occurred for
a long time, and that if any had taken place it must
have been reported to him at once. At the same
time our own people had a good look round for any
signs of wreckage or plunder, but found none; we
therefore concluded that the story was caused by
some mistake about the wreck of the "Hailoon "
on the China coast, to which we then procceded.
We found the "Hailoon" on the beach, and
H.M. ship "Elk," and the steamer "Formosa "
anchored off her. They were endeavouring to
make her seaworthy, by building a bulkhead or
sort of dam across the bow where the hole was, to
prevent the water from coming into the body of the
ship. In this they succeeded, and eventually took
her down to Hongkong in safety. Her accident
was caused while steaming up the coast against a
strong N.E. monsoon, and consequently keeping
close in shore. She had struck on a pinnacle rock
which had about twelve feet of water on it, and
which was not marked on the chart or known before,
except by the Chinese fishermen, who knew of its
existence by the trouble it caused them when their
nets got entangled with it. These people after-
80
[CHAP. III.
The Eastern Seas.
wards pointed the position out to the officer who
was sent to examine it. When the steamer struck
on the rock, and the captain found the water flowing
in, he backed her off and then ran her up on the
beach as far as possible, to save the passengers,
crew, and cargo. He had then gone to the nearest
Chinese official, who sent off messengers for him to
obtain assistance, and also sent a guard to protect
the wreck.
As we found our services were not required we
proceeded to Amoy.
On May the 2nd, information was brought that
the steamer "Douglas" had run on the Dyoyu
rocks near Namoa Island. We immediately went
to her assistance, and found the steamer "Quan-
tung" anchored near her. The "Douglas" had
run on the rock, while going so fast that there was
no hope of backing her off and saving the vessel.
She had a large hole in the bottom, and the tide
flowed over the stern as well, when we arrived.
The Dyoyu rocks are very rugged and in an exposed
position in bad weather, so that there is little
chance of saving a vessel that runs on them. The
"Quantung" had taken ninety-seven boxes of
treasure from her, each box containing about 4,000
dollars. Chinese from the shore were employed to
dive and hook the boxes on under water. As the
HAP
•
III.] Wreck of the Steamer "Douglas.
"" 81
rest of the treasure was lower down and at the
bottom of the vessel, from twelve to twenty feet
under water, and as the Chinese divers had left in
consequence of the weather getting stormy, some of
our men volunteered to dive and recovered ten boxes
containing 40,000 dollars. We had no diving
dresses and therefore it was very arduous work.
The decks were cut through as much as possible,
and two oars were lashed together to guide the
men down and up again, and to prevent their
rope getting entangled with anything and drowning
the diver.
The captain of the steamer informed me that,
after getting on the rocks, they were attacked by
Chinese, who came in boats from the shore, which
was about five miles off. They had much difficulty
in driving them back, and had to fire on them
repeatedly, the officers, crew, and passengers be-
having very bravely. Soon after they got on
shore they had been able to send to Swatow, which
was about thirty-five miles off, to report their
disaster, and the "Quantung" had been sent to
their assistance immediately, but she left the day
after the arrival of the "Dwarf." Junks to hold
the cargo were sent from Swatow, and when the
weather permitted Chinese coolies and divers came
from the shore to save cargo in company with our
G
82
[CHAP. III.
The Eastern Seas.
people. It was very dull and monotonous work,
but was occasionally enlivened by Chinese trying
to come close and pilfer. On one occasion, on
the 6th, we noticed eight large Chinese boats
coming off slowly before the wind, with apparently
few men in them: when about a quarter of a mile
from the wreck we saw a number of men start up,
who shouted, brandished spears and knives, and
waved flags they must have numbered between
300 or 400 men. Commencing to pull towards the
wreck, they evidently intended to board and
plunder. As we always kept ready for this sort of
work (this place having as bad a reputation as any
in China for piracy), we threw a shot from the
twenty-pound rifle gun across the bow of the first
boat. Seeing they paid no attention to this, the
gunner made a beautiful shot just over one boat
which splashed another nicely; this shot falling so
well, effectually showed them that we would stand
no nonsense, and they all turned round and made
for the shore. By the old custom of China any
wreck is considered the property of the nearest
villagers, and a rush is made for pillage, as was
formerly done in England as well as other countries
many years ago; a Chinese junk has no chance
if wrecked, and the crew are only too glad to
escape with their lives. Knowing this custom
CHAP. III.] Deceptive Appearance of the Land. 83
made us more anxious to drive them off without
bloodshed than if we were certain they were
regular pirates. After nineteen days the cargo
was all cleared out, and the vessel stripped of every-
thing of value, so we went to Swatow and landed
the captain and officers of the wreck. On our way
to Amoy, a few days after, we passed close to her,
and found she had almost entirely disappeared in a
gale.
The captain's statement of the reason of his
losing his ship was, that the appearance of the land
in the evening had deceived him so much, that he
did not think he was so far from the mainland and
out of his course. While anchored at this place I
constantly watched the appearance of the mainland
and Namoa Island, and noticed that sometimes one
would appear quite close, and sometimes the other,
though both were about five miles off. This
showed the necessity of constantly taking cross
bearings when coasting in China to avoid being
deceived.
We were at Amoy during an eclipse of the sun
on June 6th. The Chinese commenced beating
gongs, and drums, blowing horns, firing guns, and
making as much noise as possible, to frighten away
the monster that was eating up the sun.
As I wished to see some of the mission stations
G 2
84
[CHAP. III.
The Eastern Seas.
on the North river near Amoy, and the Rev. Mr. M.
of the Church Mission Society had kindly said I
might accompany him, we started in a mission
boat on the 7th, and got to Polam the next night.
On our way we passed a village where they were
holding the festival of the Dragon boat. Three-
long boats, richly painted and gilded with a
dragon's head at the bow, were paddled by crews of
twenty men each, and raced down the stream;
gongs were beating, flags flying, and a crowd of
women and children yelling and shouting; it was a
very pretty sight, as the village was situated among
beautiful green fields of rice and sugar-cane, and
groves of orange trees and pomelloes, with a range
of mountains at the back. I attended the chapel
at Polam on Sunday, and there were about fifty
people present; very few of these were baptised
Christians, the rest were only hearers. The
Chinese teacher was a fine-looking man and had a
curious history. He had formerly been a petty
military mandarin, and commanded a war junk in
Formosa, where he had a sharp fight with some
pirates. In the action a stinkpot was thrown on
board his junk, which exploded and a piece
wounded him in the eye, and he was also badly
burnt. He suffered great agony from his wound,
and the Chinese doctors could not cure nor even
CHAP. III.] A Chinese Christian Teacher.
85
relieve his sufferings. His friends therefore wished
him to go to the foreign hospital for Chinese at
Amoy. For a long time he would not go, so great
was his hatred to foreigners. At last the great
pain he suffered compelled him, and the English
doctor managed to give him relief at once, but the
sight of one eye was quite gone. While in the
hospital he heard one of the missionaries preaching
in Chinese. The text was "Lay not up for your-
selves treasures on earth," &c. This roused his
attention, and he began to think there might be
some good in foreigners and their religion, and
that they might not all assist in debasing his
countrymen by selling them opium, but that there
must be many good and charitable men to support
the hospital and to skilfully treat people without
receiving payment for it. After his wounds were
healed he left the hospital, and by this time had
become a zealous convert to Christianity.
rejoining the military service he began to preach
his new faith, and in consequence soon got into
trouble, and at last had to choose between giving
up his rank in the army or his religion. He chose
to give up everything for his faith, although from
the bravery he had shown in battle there was every
probability of his becoming a high mandarin.
After some time he qualified for and became a
On
86
[CHAP. III.
The Eastern Seas.
teacher at the chapel at Polam, where he zealously
performed his duty and lived on his small salary.
There was another interesting case at Polam of
an old man who had been an astrologer, and had
made a comfortable livelihood by predicting lucky
days for marriages, the proper position to build
houses in with regard to the direction of the doors
and windows so as to bring good fortune to the
possessor, and various other superstitious practices.
On becoming a Christian he was no longer allowed
to make his living by these means, and being very
old had a very hard struggle to earn his food.
Finding it very difficult to refrain from returning
to his magic arts when pressed by hunger, as he
could easily make a fee of three dollars by doing
so, he gave his astrologer's compass to Mr. M. to
take away and thus remove temptation from him.
On the 12th of July information came that an
American gentleman employed by an English firm
at Takow had been knocked down, wounded, and
robbed, by some Chinese near that place. As there
was no United States ship at Amoy, or Takow, the
"Dwarf" went across in case there should be
anything seriously the matter, or the chance of a
disturbance. On arriving we were told that this.
gentleman had been travelling in a chair with four
Chinese coolies from Tai-wan-foo, the capital, to
CHAP. III.]
87
Highway Robbery.
Takow, which was about thirty-seven miles by
land; he was travelling by night on account of the
heat. When he had gone a little more than half
way his coolies were stopped, and he was told to
get out of his chair, and on his doing so, he
received a blow from a spear across his head which
stunned him and made a nasty wound. When he
recovered his senses he found himself surrounded
by many Chinese robbers, who took everything
from him, and a box containing the books of the
house, which could not be of any use to them, but
were very important to the firm.
They had
evidently expected that he had treasure with him,
as the boxes which hold about 4000 or 5000 dollars
were generally sent down from Tai-wan without
any guard when it is necessary to send it away to
Amoy, in consequence of it being very dangerous
to embark it at Tai-wan-foo on account of the surf.
He had no treasure with him on this occasion, so
they were disappointed and left him lying very
still, apparently dead, on the road. When the
robbers went away, his coolies picked him up and
carried him into Takow. There being no Ame-
rican consul in Formosa the British consul had
immediately taken the matter up and seen the
Chinese officials on the subject. After some few
days the mandarins managed to recover the books
88
[CHAP. III.
The Eastern Seas.
and secure two of the thieves by means often
resorted to in China. A magistrate went to the
village which was the nearest to the place where
the robbery had taken place, and made the
head man of the village responsible for the recovery
of the plunder and capture of the robbers. On the
head man expressing his inability to do either of
these things the magistrate seized his brother and
put him in prison, telling the head man that if the
books were not recovered in three days he would
flog his brother with bamboos. The books were
not found in the time named, the brother therefore
received a beating with bamboos, and the head man
was informed the dose would be repeated if they
were still not discovered. After this the villagers
set to work, and at last found the box with the
books all right inside, buried in a field. The
brother was then released, but the magistrate put a
"squeeze" or fine on the village for not catching
the thieves, although they protested the robbers
did not come from their neighbourhood, but from
the capital, and that they had returned again. As
the "squeeze" was to be increased if no one was
caught, at last two men were produced for being
implicated in the robbery, and were tried and
punished. The Chinese officials showed no reluct-
ance on this occasion to administer justice.
CHAP. III.]
89
Coal Mines at Kelung.
On the 9th of August we were relieved from the
duties of senior officer on the Amoy division and
transferred to those on the Foo-Chow division,
which was the next station farther to the north-
ward, and where we accordingly went; after
relieving the "Avon " we remained at Foo-Chow
till the 27th, when we visited Kelung harbour in
Formosa. This harbour is situated on the N.E.
end of the island, and is the only harbour in
Formosa that is deep enough for large vessels to
make use of. In strong N.E. winds a nasty sea
rolls in, and it is very unsafe in the typhoon
season, although vessels have ridden out typhoons
there, yet many have been lost. The safest
anchorage for small and light draught vessels is in
nine or ten feet of water, where there is a soft
muddy bottom and well sheltered behind the reef
that lies opposite to the custom-house.
There are generally several steamers and foreign
vessels loading here, the coal mines being con-
veniently situated in the hills, from three to four
miles from the harbour. The coal is worked by
Chinese, no foreigner being allowed to hold a mine
or do more than mere agency business.
Chinese pick the coal out of the side of the hills,
where it crops up, in the most primitive manner, as
they have but little enterprise or knowledge of
The
90
[CHAP. III.
The Eastern Seas.
mining on a large scale. Coolies are employed to
bring the coal down the mountains in small
baskets; some of it is placed in small and leaky
open boats at Coal Harbour, which is about five
miles off by sea. On its passage along the coast to
Kelung, it generally gets well wetted by the spray
and waves washing over the sides of the boats.
From other mines it is sent down the Kelung river
in boats of a similar description, arriving in nearly
as bad a state, as it constantly rains at Kelung, and
they never cover the coals. From this treatment,
as well as in consequence of its being of an inferior
quality, Kelung coal is much disliked, wet coal
being a dangerous cargo to keep on board ship. It
was very cheap, being from fifteen to seventeen
shillings a ton, to which must be added an export
duty of four shillings a ton on coal sold to mer-
chants, but this tax was not required from war
ships. Should the Chinese Government allow
foreigners to work the mines, the coal would pro-
bably be put on board in a much better state, and
possibly of a better quality by working deeper. A
tramway could easily be made from the mines to
the harbour, a distance of three or four miles, and
arranged so that the laden trucks going down
should pull the empty ones up. There is a reef
most conveniently placed near the custom-house on
CHAP. III.]
91
Sau-o-Bay.
which a wharf might be built for embarking the
coal and sheltering the lighters. There are plenty
of fish in the harbour, which the natives try to
catch at night in nets, placing fires on the bows of
their canoes to attract them. These canoes are in
such numbers that the lights stretch right across
the entrance to the harbour, making a strange and
pretty scene on a dark night, with the reflection on
the water and the high land at each side of the
entrance.
We remained here for a few days, and then went
on to a large bay, about fifty miles to the south-
ward, called Sau-o-Bay, which is on the border
between the Chinese and savage territory. It is a
fine bay, but open to the east, and therefore unsafe
in the typhoon season, except for junks and very
small gun-vessels that can anchor behind the reef
at the end of the bay. A Chinese village is built
by a small river, and has a slightly cultivated
valley around it. Everywhere else the mountains
and hills come close down to the water. On the
savage side they are densely wooded; but those
hills on the Chinese side are bare of trees, not only
on account of cultivation, but also to deprive the
savages of the advantage of attacking them by
crawling up under cover of the forest, which is
their favourite mode of fighting. A few farms
92
[CHAP. III.
The Eastern Seas.
were scattered about the valley at the head of the
bay, but the farmers had to go to their work in the
fields with their weapons ready for use, and keep-
ing one man on the look-out to give the alarm.
Many of the fields nearest to the savages had evi-
dently been uncultivated for some time on account
of their savage neighbours.
There were two villages of Peppo-hoans on the
south side of the bay, which were carefully pro-
tected by stockades of bamboo, and had a watch-
tower near the centre, as they also sometimes suffer
from the attacks of the savages. In consequence of
the crews of vessels that are wrecked on the east
coast of Formosa being always ill-treated and often
killed, I was desirous of making some arrangement
with the tribes to be kind to foreigners who were
thrown into their power, and to forward them on to
the Chinese, who would send then in to the nearest
consulate, according to the treaty. An English
gentleman belonging to the Chinese custom service,
and who was stationed at Kelung, and had come as
my guest to this place, was also anxious to accom-
plish the same object. We therefore landed with
his Chinese servant, and tried to get a guide at the
Peppo-hoan villages, but unfortunately without suc-
cess, as they said they had a feud at present with
the nearest savage tribes, and any of their people
CHAP. III.] Sociability of the Peppo-hoans.
93
would be killed if taken by them. The Chinese,
of course, refused to go, as they were always at
open war.
We therefore went to the Chinese farm
that was nearest to the border, and obtained infor-
mation from the farmer of the way to the savage
villages. After leaving him, we soon passed the
cleared land, and at last got into the bed of a
watercourse leading up the ravine between the
hills. We scrambled on for some distance, the
wood getting thicker as we advanced, but could
find neither natives nor huts, so returned disap-
pointed. When near the farm again we met our
friend the farmer, who had called out all his army,
consisting of nine men, armed with matchlocks,
spears, long knives, and shields, and was marching
to our assistance, as he had thought, from our
long absence, that we had got into trouble.
Although we felt grateful to him for his anxiety
to rescue us if necessary, it was difficult to keep
from laughing at the appearance of the motley
array.
While the ship was at anchor here a great
number of men, women, and children from the
Peppo-hoan villages came on board to see her. The
women were very nicely dressed in jacket and
trousers, with a sash round the waist, and having
their hair done up in a plait and tied round the
94
[CHAP. III.
The Eastern Seas.
head. They were not at all shy, but chatted and
laughed together at what they saw, and rolled up
rough tobacco leaves and smoked the rudely-made
cigar with an air of great pride. On their leaving
the ship some one happened to throw a bottle over-
board, at which several of our fair friends jumped
into the water and swam after it with all their
clothes on.
For the rest of the afternoon our
people amused themselves by throwing empty
bottles for the ladies to swim and scramble for, and
small coin for the men to dive after, which they
did wonderfully well, not being encumbered with
much clothing like the ladies.
The tea-plant grows here very luxuriantly, also
rice, tobacco, sugar, sweet potatoes, and ground-
nuts. On the savage side, the camphor trees com-
mence; they are very large, with huge trunks,
looking quite grand in the forest. When cut they
give out a very pleasant smell of camphor. These
trees are gradually diminishing, on account of the
wasteful manner in which the camphor is obtained,
and unless some measures are taken to plant
other trees, the forest will be gradually destroyed;
the Chinese not only cut them down as they en-
croach on savage territory, but also send strong
parties into the woods to cut them down on the
savage territory, and distil the camphor from the

CHAP. III.]
95
On a Cruise.
small branches, the rest of the tree being left
to rot if it is far from the sea or the means of
transporting it.
We moored inside the reef, but found little room
even for our small gun-vessel. Snipe abounded in
the marshes near the beach, and pheasants and
deer inland. Our people caught a few fish with
the seine in the bay, and enjoyed cooking them for
supper by a fire on the beach, and wading about
in the water after the warm day. On the 5th of
September, we sailed for the N.E. part of our
station, as the ship's company were suffering much
from the heat of the summer, and it was considered
that a cruise at sea would be of benefit to them. We
passed near to the different rocks and islands of the
chain that runs from the north of Formosa, towards
the Loo-Choo group, giving a good look at them
in case there should have been any ships wrecked
on them, and also to certify their position, because
many of them are put down as doubtful on some
of the charts. We also sounded at intervals to try
if we could get bottom, and noted the current,
which we found very variable in its strength, and
always setting in a N.E. direction. Some of the
islands are thrown up in a most abrupt manner,
and are evidently of volcanic origin. As we had
particularly fine weather, we were able to confirm
96
[CHAP. III.
The Eastern Seas.
the accuracy of Commander Bullock's observations
on disputed cases.
On the 10th we put into the Loo-Choo islands,
and anchored off the town of Napa-kiang, in the
small bay called Barn-pool. In the afternoon three
Loo-Choo officials came off, two of whom could
speak a little English. We had tea, wine and
cakes in the cabin, and, after the usual civilities,
they inquired the reason of our visit. On being
informed that we wanted fresh provisions, they
requested that a list should be given in Chinese of
what was required, and then everything would be
sent off by their Government. After seeing the
list and arranging about the provisions, I requested
permission for the officers to land and see the
country, which they said they could do after a
little hesitation. When they left the ship two of
us landed with them, and walked to the house of
one of the gentlemen, in a village not far from the
landing-place. The people appeared most polite,
every one we met on the road bowing profoundly;
they were curious to see us, but were not at all
rude like the Chinese are. They were dressed like
the Japanese, but the hair of the men was done
differently; they do not shave the head, but tie the
hair up in a bunch on the top and fasten it with a
small silver arrow, instead of the top-knot of the
CHAP. III.]
97
The Loo-Choo Islands.
Japanese. The houses were like those in the
Satsuma province of Japan, which are generally
cleaner and neater than those in the other parts of
the empire. Each house has a courtyard with a
wall round it, which has a hedge of the banyan
tree cleverly trained along the top. Farther in the
country the courtyards had no wall, but only a
hedge of evergreen round them, which had the
opening before the door so arranged by a short
piece of evergreen planted inside the opening and
overlapping it, that no one passing on the road
could see into the courtyard or house. The
houses were raised off the ground, and were
fitted with sliding panels instead of walls, so that
if there were many visitors all the partitions could
be made to slide back, the house becoming one
large room, with only one little apartment left for
the women, who do not appear when company are
present. We had tea and cakes with our friend,
and a great number of people came to visit us and
to satisfy their curiosity.
The next morning before daylight, in order to
avoid all bother and attendants, some of us landed
clear of the houses and walked straight across the
country to the capital of this group of islands,
which is called Scheudi. It is situated on the top
of a low hill about four miles inland, and was a
H
98
[CHAP. III.
The Eastern Seas.
very nice walk in the cool morning, along paths
kept perfectly clean, and having hedges of well
trimmed evergreens planted on each side. These
evergreens have a pretty little white flower, and
the leaves are of a very bright green, like orange
leaves. Near the town the country became undu-
lating, and highly cultivated with sweet potatoes,
maize, millet, sugar-cane, tobacco, and rice. There
were also some large temples and gentlemen's
houses, with trees and grounds laid out round
them, like a park in England; but the temples
bore the appearance of having been much neglected.
This pretty and quiet scenery was most refreshing
after the glare from the scorched-up hills of China.
The capital was very clean, each house being
detached from its neighbour, the temples and
gentlemen's houses being tiled, those of the poorer
classes thatched. There was an old fortress on
the top of the hill, but the gate was locked, and
we could not get inside or make any one hear.
We saw no guns or soldiers there, but had a most
beautiful view as far as the sea on both sides of the
island. We were in the town so early that the
people looked as if they had only just got up;
they came out of their houses to stare at us, and
looked as surprised as if we had dropped from the
skies. They crowded round while we were in the
CHAP. III.] Present from the King.
99
town, but were quite civil, and did not approach
us within five or six yards. We met a school of
young Buddhist priests on the road, wearing long
yellow dresses, and carrying books under their
arms. On our return to the boat, that was waiting
at the proper landing place, we found a large
crowd assembled, and also an official bearing a
letter from the king, and a present of a pig, some
fowls, sweet potatoes, and a few other vegetables,
which he had kindly sent us. This official, and
many others, came on board to examine the ship
and guns. In the afternoon the beef and vegetables,
that had been ordered for the ship's company, were
sent off to the ship, the charge being very moderate;
the beef was excellent, the best we had tasted since
leaving England. The bullocks are very small,
and the horses also; the fowls have a very gamey
flavour. Before leaving I sent a letter of thanks
to the king for his hospitality and presents, and
also a present of blankets, serge, pictures, and
books, which appeared to be as acceptable to his
Majesty as his gifts were to us. The junk trade is
carried on at the town of Napa-kiang, which is
smaller than Scheudi, and possesses a close and safe
harbour, with a very narrow entrance to it, well
adapted for junks and fishing-boats, but too small
for foreign vessels. There were only a few trading
H 2
100
[CHAP. III.
The Eastern Seas.
junks in the inner harbour, and they were dis-
mantled. This town is not near so clean as the
other towns, and the houses are built more like
Chinese than Japanese, there being many Chinese
living in it. The Loo-Choo officials seemed very
anxious for us to leave the island, and always con-
trived to send one of their countrymen with us
wherever we went, under the pretence of acting as
a guide, and to secure us from any rudeness on the
part of the natives. On landing, or on leaving the
shore, we always found one of the three gentlemen
who first called on us, professing to be delighted to
see us on each occasion, but repeatedly saying that
their island was very poor, possessing no gold,
silver, copper, or coal in it, and growing barely
enough corn and food for themselves, as if they
thought we wished to annex the island, and there-
fore endeavoured to make it appear of little value.
None of the shopkeepers would sell us anything,
but when we came in to buy they made a precipi-
tate retreat by the door at the back, and left us in
the shop by ourselves; they evidently must have
had orders on the subject. The burial ground for
foreigners was near the landing-place, and was
kept in good order, had a hedge round it, and was
shaded by trees. One of the tombs has the follow-
ing inscription, "Wm. Square, seaman of H.B.M.S.
CHAP. III.]
101
History of Loo-Choo.
<
Alceste,' was buried here, Oct. 15, 1816. This
monument was erected by the King and the inhabi-
tants of this most hospitable island." There were
tombs for French seamen, the dates 1846 and 1848,
and of ten men of the United States squadron that
was here and surveyed the islands in 1853-4; and
some others that I could not make out.
From the early records it appears that in the
fourteenth century the Loo-Choos consisted of
three petty kingdoms, and that they were united
under one in 1430 A.D. The first intercourse with
Japan took place in 1451. About 1600, they
broke off intercourse with Japan, and sent tribute
to China instead. In March, 1609, Shimadzu, a
relative of Prince Satsuma, who owned the
southern province of Japan, conquered the island
and took the king prisoner, and kept him so for
three years.
Shimadzu received the northern
portion of the Loo-Choos as a gift from Iyeyas,
who was the tycoon of Japan at that time, as a
reward for his services. After this, embassies
were sent to Japan on the accession of every
sovereign, and to Pekin as well. The Loo-Chooans
have always been noted for their extreme courtesy,
and call their island "the country that observes
propriety." They send tribute to China twice in
three years. The junks that bring the tribute are
102
[CHAP. III.
The Eastern Seas.
next.
dismantled on their arrival at the city of Foo-
Chow, the rudders are unshipped and landed, and
the crews live on shore till the arrival of the next
tribute junk. The junks that brought the former
tribute are then allowed to return. This is done
because the Chinese are afraid that Loo-Choo
would cease to pay tribute if they did not keep the
junks and crews as hostages till the arrival of the
Captain Basil Hall, R.N., gives a very
good description of the Loo-Choos in his book;
and they have altered little in manner and customs.
since his time, 1816. The Rev. Mr. Bettleheam,
who resided there for over five years, complains in
his letter of September 1849, written in the
Chinese Repository, that they sometimes treated
him rudely in their efforts to get rid of him.
When the "Dwarf" was there, no foreigners were
on the islands. One or two vessels were wrecked
on them in the last few years, and the crews.
represented that they received the kindest treat-
ment from the natives. We saw no soldiers or
weapons of any description, although they must
possess them, as there is a fort at Napa and
another at Scheudi, and they had wars formerly.
The officials carried only a fan. There appeared
to be no extreme of wealth or poverty, and the
people seemed happy and contented.
CHAP. III.]
103
Sulphur Springs.
The harbours and islands were well surveyed
by the United States squadron in 1853-4. It is a
valuable survey, as the channels between the reefs
are very intricate. It was while attending on this
squadron that our three Loo-Choo friends learnt
the little English they knew.
We left under sail on the 12th, with a fresh
S.E. wind, and in the evening killed the pig that
had been presented by the king. During the
night we had very unsettled and disagreeable
weather, the wind coming in heavy squalls, and
suddenly changing from one side to the other, with
torrents of rain. The topsails were close reefed,
and the frequent changes harassed the watch by
compelling them to brace round constantly. Some-
times it lulled quite calm between the squalls.
Several of the old seamen said the next day when
the weather cleared up, that it was all on account
of killing a pig at sea!-there being an old
superstition that it was bad luck to do so. On
our arrival at Tamsui on the 17th, we were told
that a typhoon had passed Formosa, which must
have crossed not far from us, and caused our bad
night.
There are hot sulphur springs in the mountains
about eight miles from the town of Tamsui, which
are in a state of great activity; but the mandarins
104
[CHAP. III.
The Eastern Seas.
do not allow the sulphur to be worked, as they
fear to disturb the "Fung-shui," or the Dragon
that sleeps under the Celestial Empire, by scratch-
ing his skin in obtaining it. Notwithstanding
this prohibition, there are evident signs that the
sulphur is sometimes taken by the Chinese by
stealth. In the neighbourhood of the springs there
are some very pretty groves of parsamum trees
around the farm-houses. The parsamum tree
bears a luscious red fruit, which is very pleasant
when fresh, and also when it is properly dried. A
great part of our ship's company walked out to see
the sulphur springs, taking their dinners with
them, so as to make a regular pic-nic of it under
the trees, and enjoyed themselves much.
CHAPTER IV.
WRECK OF THE YEDDO-MONASTERY ON THE CUSHAN MOUNTAIN---
DISTURBANCE AT TWA-TU-TIA IN FORMOSA VISIT TO THE
SAVAGE TRIBES IN THE INTERIOR-FÊTE AT THE ARSENAL AT
FOO-CHOW.
ON our return to Foo-Chow I visited the
Chinese Arsenal at Pagoda Anchorage. It was
under the superintendence of M. Giquel, who was
formerly a lieutenant in the French Navy. It
was kept in capital order, and would do credit to
any European nation. The plant of machinery
was excellent, and they made nearly everything
required for their steam navy, and built very fine
and fast gun-vessels, which were well adapted for
the coast of China. The officers were trained in a
naval college under English and French instructors.
A training barque was attached to the college, and
was commanded by an English naval officer, who
took the cadets to sea and taught them the
practical part of their education. The Chinese
seamen were also trained to their guns and
rifles. Those vessels that had good officers were
kept in fair order, and were smart at gun drill.
106
[CHAP. IV.
The Eastern Seas.
If the Chinese gun-vessels were commanded by
men that their crews had confidence in, they
would be very formidable, as they have good speed
and were well armed. Those that had been built
at Foo-Chow were sharp forward, and according to
the French lines. The machinery and boilers had
been made at the arsenal, but some of the heavy
parts had been brought from Europe. They also
made their own chronometers and compasses. The
leading men were French, but the workmen were
Chinese, who carried out what they were told to do
very well.
The "Dwarf" sometimes went up the river to
the city of Foo-Chow-Foo, and moored a short dis-
tance below the bridge, which is solidly built of
stone. The river near the city is divided into two
branches by "Nantai " Island, on which the foreign
settlement is built. The deepest channel at present
is north of this island, but it is shoaling gradually
every year. A great many years ago, the Chinese
say that the deepest channel was on the opposite
side of the island. The bed of the river is con-
stantly altering, on account of the soil being light
and alluvial; so much so that the Chinese pilot
who is employed to take the gun-vessels up (which
draw only about eight and a half or nine feet of
water) makes a practice of sounding the river the
CHAP. IV.]
107
Round Island Passage.
night previous, and of placing marks made of a
bush tied to a bamboo, which is stuck in the mud
at the worst places. Even with this precaution
there are several days, at neap tides, when there is
not sufficient water. Large ships anchor off Pagoda
Island. While on our way to Formosa, we went
to sea by a channel at the entrance of the river
called Round Island Passage, which we surveyed,
as it cut off about seven miles for vessels coming
up from the south; but the channel is shallow and
intricate, and should only be used by a small gun-
boat on an emergency, and then only when the
flood tide has half made. It might be useful in
war to cut off an enemy's vessel.
The walls of the city of Foo-Chow-Foo are about
five miles round, and are well worth the trouble
of walking on, and the view from the top of
the pagoda-shaped guard-house at the north gate
is very extensive.
The greater part of the land
inside the walls is cultivated, as Foo-Chow has suf-
fered from war, and been ruined like other Chinese
cities. Before getting to the city, from the river,
it is necessary to traverse about three miles of
suburbs, in which some of the shops are fine, but
the smells are vile. The Viceroy of the province
of Fokien lives at Foo-Chow, and also the Tartar
general commanding the troops, of which there are
108
[CHAP. IV.
The Eastern Seas.
The
usually a good many in the city ready to be sent to
Formosa, if necessary (as that island is under the
command of this viceroy), or anywhere else where
they may be required. The Imperial gun-boats
built at the Foo-Chow arsenal are also under his
orders. Each viceroy is expected to put down
rebellion in his own province without assistance
from the central government if possible.
quarrel with the Japanese which afterwards took
place became so serious at last that the central
government had to send troops to Formosa from
other parts of the empire, the viceroy not having
sufficient power to deal with it. The Japanese, the
same as other foreign nations, in their complaints,
made the Pekin Government responsible for the
acts of their subordinates in any part of the empire.
No viceroy or mandarin is allowed to hold an
appointment in his native province, for fear of his
becoming too powerful and causing rebellion by
being too closely connected with the people.
On the 8th of October we left Foo-Chow to
render assistance to the "Yeddo," a large iron
steamer that had run on shore, on a reef off one of
the islands to the south of the Haitan Straits. She
had grounded at the time of high water, and at low
tide you could walk nearly quite round her; the
rise and fall of tide being seventeen feet. When
CHAP. IV.]
109
Accuracy of the Charts.
she first got on the rocks, the Chinese fishermen
had attempted to board and plunder her, but had
been very gallantly driven back by the captain,
officers, and crew, and also the passengers. As she
was only about seventy miles from Foo-Chow, and
in the track of steamers going up the coast, infor-
mation was soon brought of her disaster, and the
passengers sent away. The "Dwarf" remained by
her for fourteen days, and transferred her cargo to
another steamer. The wreck being then sold, as it
was considered by the owner that the expense of
repairing the holes and floating her off would
amount to more than her value, we left her in
charge of the purchasers, who had brought an
armed junk for her protection. The yits, or
islands, all around looked quite bare, as they had
no trees or grass on them. They were inhabited
by fishermen and a few farmers, who grew sweet
potatoes and ground-nuts, a very poor-looking
population indeed, to whom a wreck must be a
perfect godsend. We returned to Foo-Chow by
the Haitan Straits, making use of the Wilson's
Channel, and we found, with care and attention,
that there was little difficulty, the chart being very
accurate. It ought to be a cause of pride with
naval men to find how accurate the charts are on
this very intricate coast, when we consider that
110
[CHAP. IV.
The Eastern Seas.
Captains Kellet and Collinson had no steamers or
steam launches to take the full advantage of calm
days for their surveys, and must have been con-
stantly bothered by a fiery N.E. monsoon.
it, who are
Roman Ca-
There are some very large and curious Buddhist
monasteries near Foo-Chow. The largest one is
built nearly half-way up the Cushan Mountain,
which is about 3000 feet high, and lies between
the city and Pagoda Anchorage. It is kept in
good order, being a place of great sanctity, and a
favourite shrine for Chinese pilgrims. There are a
great number of priests attached to
dressed in long grey coats, like the
tholics, with a cord round the waist. These per-
form the service in the morning and evening,
which consists of chanting the same words over
and over again in a most monotonous manner, occa-
sionally getting up from their knees and walking
round and round before the idols, beating a gong
and tinkling a bell; about fifty of them attend
these services. During the service one of the
priests places a small quantity of food on a stone
pillar outside the temple for the birds to eat. The
idols are very large, and richly gilded. It is situ-
ated in a sort of basin in the mountain, and pos-
sesses cool and pleasant walks under fine large
trees, and has gardens and fish-ponds attached to
[CHAP. IV.
111
Buddhist Monasteries.
it, and there is also a water bell placed in a stream,
which gives out a very sweet tone. The priests
ought to lead a happy life, if a fine climate, with a
beautiful and quiet home and little work to do, can
give it. There are some rooms attached to the
temple which the priests let out to foreigners, who
wish to live here for a change of air in the summer,
and to get away from the great heat of the city.
From the top of the mountain a most extensive
view is obtained of the large plain round the city
of Foo-Chow, which is well cultivated, and gives a
good idea of the cause of the wealth that the city
possessed in former years. This rich plain, which
has the river flowing through it covered with junks
and boats, the city, towns, and villages scattered
about in all directions, and the mountains in the
distance, makes up a picture that well repays the
trouble of climbing so high to see. The tea-plant
is grown in small patches about the sides of the
Cushan Mountain, but the principal tea district is
some miles farther inland.
Another very curious monastery is built in a large
cave, which is situated in a deep ravine between
the mountains on the banks of the You-en-fou
river. The span of the cave across is 200 feet, and
there is a deep chasm immediately under the temple,
which is about 1,000 feet up the mountain.
112
[CHAP. IV.
The Eastern Seas.
Although this temple is of great sanctity, and the
resort of many pilgrims, yet there are but few
priests belonging to it. These keep the temple
in order, preventing the trees being destroyed,
so that the walk up to it is beautiful and shady,
although it is a stiff pull up the steps leading from
the bottom of the ravine. The usual way to go to
this mountain from Foo-Chow, is in a house boat up
the river to the foot of it, and then by walking up
the mountain to the temple. The house boats are
fitted up with every luxury for gentlemen and
ladies to live on board of, as they sometimes go
away
in them for several days; the gentlemen to
shoot, and the ladies for change of air and scene.
On the 16th, Vice Admiral Sir C. Shadwell,
K.C.B., hoisted his flag in the "Dwarf," and
steamed to the city of Foo-Chow from Pagoda
Anchorage, where he had arrived in the "Salamis,"
which drew too much water to go further up the
river. The races took place while he was there.
They were very good, as the Chinese ponies have
plenty of go in them. The course is about four
miles from the settlement, and on the opposite side
of the river to it. The race committee very hos-
pitably entertained the officers at luncheon, and
gave a good dinner to any of our ship's company
that were present on each day, some of whom kept
CHAP. IV.]
113
Disturbance at Twa-tu-tia.
滋
​the course clear for them. The day's races con-
cluded with jumping in sacks, and foot races
between the blue-jackets and marines, which gave
great amusement to the spectators. There were
numbers of Chinese present who appeared to take
great interest in each day's diversion. After
remaining at the city a few days, the admiral
returned to Pagoda Anchorage, and sent the
"Dwarf" on to Tamsui in Formosa, in consequence
of a letter from the Vice-Consul, reporting that a
disturbance had occurred at the town of Twa-tu-tia,
where some Chinese had attacked the house of an
English merchant, and wounded a British subject.
On our arrival at Tamsui, we found that the Vice-
Consul had gone to Twa-tu-tia, which was about
thirteen miles up the river, some distance beyond
where the "Dwarf" could go, as the river became
very shallow about six miles above Tamsui. As
further disturbances were expected, and as there
was no doctor to attend the wounded man, the
doctor of our ship and myself, with a gig and crew
of four armed men, started at once for Twa-tu-tia
and took a Chinese sailor with us who was lent by
the Custom authorities to pilot the boat. Even
with his assistance, we found the last four or five
miles became so shallow that we had much difficulty
in getting the boat up, and we had to get out occa-
I
114
[CHAP. IV..
The Eastern Seas.
sionally and drag her over sand banks, the tide
being low.
There are several merchants' houses or hongs
with tea firing establishments attached, at Twa-
tu-tia, as the country people bring their tea into
this place, where it has to be fired or dried again,
and packed in boxes ready for sending down the
river in cargo boats to be shipped in foreign vessels
at Tam-sui. For the tea firing process Chinese are
brought from Amoy, because they are found to be
more regular at their work and reliable than those
belonging to the town which is close by, and con-
tains about 20,000 inhabitants; the boatmen be-
longing to the hongs are mostly from Canton. The
people of the town are consequently very jealous
of the Chinese from Amoy and Canton. The
present quarrel originated in a dispute between the
Cantonese boatmen employed by one of the hongs
and the townspeople; from this cause about 100 to
200 people assembled in a mob, and attacked the
hong with knives and spears. They would soon
have forced an entrance and plundered it, if two
English merchants from another hong, hearing of
the riot, had not gallantly come to the rescue with
all the Cantonese boatmen they could collect. In
charging through the mob one of the merchants got
severely wounded. Great damage was done to the
CHAP. IV.]
115
Punishment of the Rioters.
hong. On the news arriving at Tam-sui, the Vice-
Consul had immediately started with all the
foreigners he could collect, about ten, principally
from an English steamer that happened to be in the
harbour at Tam-sui, and a few merchants, and by
this prompt action had prevented further dis-
turbance. Before starting he had applied to the
Chinese steam gunboat lying in the harbour for
assistance, but without success.
At a meeting which he held with the mandarins
of the district afterwards, it was decided that the
rioters should pay 800 dollars to repair the damage
done to the hong, and 1,000 dollars as compensation
to the wounded merchant, and that the two leaders
of the riot should be placed in the cangue, with a
suitable inscription, stating the reason of their
punishment as a warning to others not to molest
foreigners. The cangue consists of a large board
for the criminal to place his head and hands through
holes fitted for them, and is the usual punishment
given in China for similar offences. Notwith-
standing that the mandarins had tried and sentenced
the prisoners, the punishment was not carried out;
therefore, after a few days, the vice-consul requested
that it should be administered as agreed on. The
Chinese officials then said there would be no diffi-
culty about the payment of the money, but that
I 2
116
[CHAP. IV.
The Eastern Seas.
they were afraid of punishing the two leaders, as
they belonged to a very powerful clan or family,
who had greater power in the town than themselves,
there being no regular troops in the place at that
time. On this the mandarins were informed of the
arrival of the gun vessel at Tam-sui, and that he and
myself intended to remain at Twa-tu-tia till their
sentence was put into execution. Finding we were
determined in the matter, at about 9 P.M. on the
second day of my arrival, soon after we had
finished dinner, these two men were brought before
us by a guard of Chinese soldiers armed with spears
and bearing torches. It made altogether a strange
and curious sight, especially when my friend quietly
took a candle, put on his spectacles, and carefully
read the inscription on each cangue, or large board
of wood which was locked round the prisoner's neck.
Everything being correct the guard and prisoners
retired. Fortunately the season for firing and
shipping the tea had just finished, so that all
the Amoy men were sent back to Amoy, thus
removing any chance of further quarrels for that
season. The wound of the merchant was severe,
but fortunately not dangerous; he recovered after
a few weeks, and appeared quite satisfied with the
compensation.
On my return to Tam-sui the Rev. Mr. M., of the
CHAP. IV.]
117
Visit to the Savages.
Canadian Presbyterian Church, with whom I was
well acquainted, informed me that the headman of
a tribe of Peppo-hoans living about sixty miles
S.S.W. of Tam-sui at a place called Sin-kang, and
who with many of his people had embraced Chris-
tianity, had sent to request him to visit them, as
they wished to have his advice about a chapel that
they wanted to build themselves. The headman
also said that he was going to make a journey into
the savage territory with a part of his tribe, to
endeavour to purchase some land to form a new
settlement for his people, whose numbers had
increased very much; and that he was on friendly
terms with the chief of the savage tribe that owned
the valley he wished to obtain permission to settle
in. He said that this chief had expressed his
willingness to make the acquaintance of Mr. M.
This being a very favourable opportunity for
meeting some of the savages of the interior, and
possibly through them of inducing the coast tribes
to be kind to shipwrecked people, I gladly availed
myself of Mr. M.'s offer to allow me to accompany
him. Having obtained the necessary passport from
the Chinese authorities, we started the day after
Christmas Day with two Chinese servants, a
Chinese teacher, and one coolie to carry our food,
as we went on foot in light marching order. For
118
[CHAP. IV.
The Eastern Seas.
the first twelve or fourteen miles our path lay
over a table land with short dry grass and with but
little cultivation. The table land lies between the
Kina-yun mountain and the sea, and is about 600
feet above the water, having a very rough and
slippery path up; but when on the top the air is
deliciously bracing. The Kina-yun mountain is
very jagged and peculiar in shape, standing out
well clear of the other mountains; and being about
1720 feet high, I found it most useful in my
observations for a long distance. After passing
over the table land we descended into a plain or
valley which was well cultivated with rice and
sugar-cane. We halted for the night at a Chinese
inn at the village of Sion-lek, making a walk of
twenty-four miles. Our room was comparatively
clean for a Chinese inn; the floor was of mud, and
the walls of mud and bamboo. Unfortunately the
partition between our room and the next was very
thin, and we were kept awake a great part of the
night by some Chinese merchants drinking, gam-
bling and smoking opium in the next room; after
which one of them, for the rest of the night, was
snorting and grunting like a dyspeptic pig. We
left the inn early the next morning, and after a
few miles crossed over more table land till we got
to the valley in which the city of Teuxham is
CHAP. IV.]
119
The Headman's House.
situated, where we rested for the night, having
accomplished about eighteen miles since the
morning.
Teuxham is a walled city, and is the capital of
the northern portion of Formosa, being the second
city in the island. It is governed by a prefect, and
contains about 40,000 inhabitants. Some of the
shops are good, and there is a fair trade inland and
also by sea, in junks from Heong-san, a village and
bay on the coast about three miles off. This bay is
well sheltered for junks by a sand spit, but it is
too shallow for foreign vessels to lie inside. The
valley round the city is well cultivated. We went
to the house of the headman of the Peppo-hoan
tribe, who was obliged to keep a house at Teuxham,
and to reside there for a portion of the year. As
the headman was in the country, his wife and
brother did the honours of the house for him.
They were both Christians, and were delighted to
see Mr. M. The reception room was well and
gaudily furnished, like that of a petty mandarin,
but the sleeping rooms were very small. As soon
as it was known in the neighbourhood that Mr. M.
had arrived, a great number of Christians and
others came to see him and to ask him to cure
them of various complaints. Mr. M. had studied
medicine before leaving Canada, and always took a
120
[CHAP. IV.
The Eastern Seas.
.....
small supply of the commoner sorts of medicine
with him; his time was therefore fully taken up
in attending to their wants both spiritually and
bodily. When we left the house in the morning,
we found that two soldiers had been stationed at
the door, who said that they had orders from the
prefect to attend and guard us wherever we went.
Soon after leaving Teuxham our way led us
through the village of Heong-san, and along the
shore for some distance, and afterwards over sand.
hills for the greater part of the day. The glare of
the sun was very painful, and greatly aggravated
by the fine dust from the sand as soon as the sea
breeze set in. On this coast, ophthalmia and sore
eyes are very prevalent. At every village the
natives came to Mr. M., who blistered freely and
also used much quinine for fever and ague, which
prevail to a great extent. On our return I was
surprised to see how well these remedies had acted..
The sore eyes are greatly caused by the people not
washing the sand out carefully; in fact they looked
as if they rarely treated their skins to clean water.
During the afternoon we struck inland and soon
got into a cultivated country again, and after a walk
of eighteen miles arrived at the village of Sin-
kang, where we found that our friend the head-
man and many of his people had come out of the
CHAP. IV.]
121
Sinkang.
village to welcome us. His wife had also arrived,
having travelled by chair for a great part of the
way from Teuxham.
Before becoming acquainted with Mr. M., the
headman had been an opium smoker, and had so
ruined his health from this vicious habit that he
was not expected to live. Since that time he had
been to stay with Mr. M. at Tam-sui, who had at
last induced him to give up the opium; by careful
treatment his health had gradually improved, and
he was now excessively grateful to his English
friend for all his kindness. We dismissed the
Chinese guard here, as they could not go on with
us into the savage territory for fear of losing their
heads, there being constant warfare between the
savages and Chinese. Mr. M. held service twice
on Sunday, about fifty people being present.
was much struck with the great attention shown
by all present to the service and the impressive
manner in which Mr. M. preached, his whole heart
evidently being in his subject. Among those that
came with bodily ailments, was a woman afflicted
with great irritation of her eyes, which was caused
by the eyelashes growing inwards under the eyelid;
Mr. M. having no tweezers with him, very cleverly
made a pair with a knife out of a piece of bamboo,
and took the lashes out, giving her relief at once.
I
122
[CHAP. IV.
The Eastern Seas.
Had this not been done she would have lost her
sight altogether in a short time.
On the 30th, our Chinese servants and about
thirty Peppo-hoans put on savage dresses, tied
their tails up round their heads, and armed them-
selves with match-locks and spears, and in company
with the headman we all started for the moun-
tains. By noon we got to a sugar mill belonging
to a rich Chinese planter, who entertained us at
lunch very hospitably. He appeared glad to hear
that the Peppo-hoans were likely to settle beyond
him, because then there would be less fear of his
people being molested by the savages, some of his
men having been occasionally cut off by them and
killed while working in the fields near the forest.
His house was in a valley at the foot of the moun-
tains, and was the most advanced Chinese settlement
in that neighbourhood. After leaving him we soon
got into a wild country covered with scrub and
jungle; we found wild tomatoes, which are smaller
than the cultivated ones and are very good to eat
and have a pleasant flavour; we also found a sort
of
pea which is good to eat. The frontier line runs
along the top of a range of mountains about 3000
feet high, and about four miles beyond the sugar
mill we had stopped at.
found a small Chinese
On the top of the pass we
watch house made of
CHAP. IV.]
123
The Camphor Forest.
bamboo with a strong stockade round it
it; it
contained a small guard to give notice of any
inroad of the savages. The path had gradually
been getting worse ever since we left the sugar
mill, sometimes leading up the bed of a stream
among the rocks, and at other places it became so
steep that it required the use of both hands and
feet to scramble up. There were few camphor
trees on the Chinese side, but after passing the
frontier we entered a most beautiful forest com-
posed principally of large camphor trees that looked
as if they had never been disturbed. Creepers
were twining about them in the wildest profusion,
and many beautiful orchids grew on the branches;
we saw very few birds in the forest, but occa-
sionally we could catch a glimpse of one or two
savages gliding along among the trees and
watching us, making one feel what little chance a
hostile force would have against them in these
woods, on account of the ease with which they
could be shot down without being able to see their
foe at all. The path had now disappeared, and we
went along simply by the guidance of one of the
Peppo-hoans. From the watch-house on the moun-
tain we scrambled down the steep side into a valley,
and then over another range of mountains about
six miles from the first; and after that came to a

124
The Eastern Seas.
[CHAP. IV.
valley running north and south for about ten miles,
covered with long pampas grass on the bottom,
which was growing on a good rich black soil, and
possessing streams running through it. We were
here met by some Peppo-hoans from their camp,
SAVAGE MAN AND WOMAN, FORMOSA.
which was on the other side of the valley. The
two parties saluted each other by firing match-
locks, shouting and dancing. Shortly afterwards
we came to a stream where there was an outpost
of twelve savages armed with matchlocks, who
after a few words with our headman allowed our
party to pass on. Two of these guards were
CHAP. IV.] Camp among the Savages.
125
elderly women who were armed with matchlocks
and long knives like the men, but wore a short
petticoat besides the sort of tunic they all wear;
they looked fiercer and more suspicious than the
men. After deciding that we were friends this
party also fired off their matchlocks in the air.
Soon after passing them we came to the camp of
the Peppo-hoans, which was composed of huts
fenced round with a stockade of bamboo, and built
on the bank of a stream. Many savages were
living in the camp with one of their chicfs who
spoke Chinese; some of these gave us cakes of rice
and oranges as an expression of their friendship for
us. Altogether in the camp, including Peppo-
hoans, savages and ourselves, there were about
eighty assembled. A hut was given to Mr. M.
and myself and our servants, but being badly made
of coarse grass did not keep out either wind or
rain.
The young savages appeared frank and pleasant
people, but the old ones had a very suspicious and
cunning look, which, I suppose, must have been
caused by the constant state of harassing warfare
they live in with the Chinese and neighbouring
savage tribes. Many of the young women were
good-looking, and from the appearance of the
savages, it was easy to see that they were closely
126
[CHAP. IV.
The Eastern Seas.
related to the Peppo-hoan tribe we were living
with. The men of this savage tribe tattoo their
faces only down the centre of the forehead and
chin, in a small line about one-third of an inch
wide; the women have the same tattoo mark, but
on the forehead only. The men wore a kind of
shirt or tunic of coarse grass-cloth, which was not
dyed, although some of the leading men had a kind
of square patch behind of a chequered pattern on
the seat of the tunic, which was also trimmed with
a narrow piece of red cloth round the neck and
armholes. The fighting women wore a tunic like
the men, and a short petticoat or piece of grass-
cloth wrapped round the waist as well. The
younger women, who looked after the children and
household affairs, wore a dress more resembling
that of the Peppo-hoan women, consisting of loose
trousers and tunic, but none of them seemed to
take any pains about dressing the hair like the
Peppo-hoans do. They told us that they had never
seen any foreigners before; they were therefore
curious about our dress and hair, remarking with
pleasure that we wore no tail like the Chinese, and
they seemed much struck with the light colour of
our skin. In the evening, Mr. M. expounded the
Gospel to a large number, in Chinese, the chief
interpreting to his followers; the Peppo-hoans who
CHAP. IV.]
127
Palaver of Chiefs.
had been taught sang psalms, which sounded very
strange in this wild spot and strange company,
with the firelight playing on the dresses and
weapons of the savage-looking group around.
The next morning about thirty savages came
into camp to attend the palaver of chiefs. They
said the rest that had been invited could not come,
as they killed a Chinese during the night and car-
ried off his head, and that they were now engaged
in holding the usual feast and orgie. After the
meeting, as we wished to visit some of their
villages, a large party of savages and Peppo-hoans
started with us. We went along the valley
towards the south for a long time without seeing
any hut or village; and, at last, believing that
they were taking us back towards the Chinese
frontier, where, we had been told, some Chinese
were at work cutting timber, it occurred to us that
they intended to take advantage of their numbers
to make a raid on them. We therefore told them
that we wished to return to the camp, which they
consented to do after some little demur.
After our return, at the persuasion of some of
our friends, two of the young savages told us that
they would take us to their huts. One of these
men had a very pleasing expression of countenance,
and appeared a man of some influence among them,
128
[CHAP. IV.
The Eastern Seas.
and evidently took more pride in his dress and
appearance than the others. We set out with these
two, and also two Peppo-hoans who volunteered to
go with us. Our course was to the east, up the
bed of a watercourse, which led us through a preci-
pitous gorge or cleft in the mountains that could
easily have been defended by a small number of
determined men against any force; the mountains
on each side and in front were very high, and rose
one above another till they culminated in Mount
Sylvia, which is near the centre of the island, and
over 12,000 feet high. This gorge suddenly opened
out into a small rocky valley, where we could see
huts peeping out from between the trees and large
rocks, two or three together, but not built in vil-
lages. They were concealed as much as possible,
so that in many cases you could not perceive that
there was any house near till you were actually at
it. The huts looked very neat, being built of palm
leaves and bamboo. Those for the people to live
in were built on the ground, with mud floors; but
those to keep the grain in were built on stakes
about three feet off the ground, to keep the vermin
out. Small patches of ground were roughly culti-
vated near the huts with Indian corn; red or
mountain rice was also grown on the sides of the
hills, between the stumps of trees in the most care-
CHAP. IV.]
129
Among the Savages.
less manner. This description of rice being of an
inferior quality and not requiring care and irriga-
tion like the common rice, finds the supply of
water from the constant rain in these mountains
quite sufficient to bring it to perfection, and make
it a very good food, though not so nice in appear-
ance as the white rice. Some of the huts had also
plum and orange trees round them. The cottage of
our friendly savage was particularly neat and well
built. Over the door the skulls of the wild boar,
deer, and monkeys were fastened in rows; he
showed us all his weapons for war and the chase,
and cooking utensils which were of the most primi-
tive description, the principal one being the still for
making a rough and not very pleasant sort of spirit.
As a last treat of which he appeared extremely
proud, he showed us the tails of six Chinamen,
tied up in a bunch, which he said had belonged to
men that he had killed; each tail had a small piece
of the scalp attached to it.
After leaving his hut, we continued our walk
into another valley farther on, and came to a house
where we heard a great noise of shouting and.
yelling. Our friend then told us that the orgie
was being held here over the head of the unfortu-
nate Chinaman who had been killed the night before.
We therefore stopped on the opposite side of a
K
130
[CHAP. IV..
The Eastern Seas.
Our
stream, and about 100 yards off the house.
friend then crossed the stream and told those inside
about our arrival; whereupon a couple of them
came out in a very curious feasting dress and crossed
over to us at once. At first they did not seem at
all pleased at our having come there, as I suppose
they thought we might tell the Chinese of the route
to their house. Others soon followed, and among
them the wife of a chief, to whom Mr. M. had given
quinine the day before, on account of an attack of
fever and ague; and she very earnestly represented
the good she had received from it. Another savage
bared his side to show what relief he had obtained
from Mr. M.'s treatment of a skin disease of a very
severe and painful description. Both of these
people represented that our intentions could not be
evil, or we would not have taken the trouble to
help them. After hearing this, the savages became
as anxious that we should go to the house and join
the feast as they had previously been averse to us.
We however declined their invitation with thanks,
as they were all more or less excited with drink,
and are very liable to get quarrelsome when in that
state, like more civilized people are. They then
returned to the hut where the shouting commenced
again, and we returned to camp. The feasting
dress consisted of a cap of deer skin, having a
CHAP. IV.]
131
Among the Savages.
narrow band of scarlet cloth round it, with a cross
of the same material over the top. They wore a
red tunic on the body.
Mr. M. again preached the Gospel to a large
number of savages and Peppo-hoans in the camp on
that evening, as on the previous night.
The
On the 1st of January, 1873, the Peppo-hoans
made their treaty with the savages, and bought the
large valley from them, obtaining leave to bring in
their wives and families, to build a village, and to
commence cultivation at once. They also consented
to a Chinese Christian teacher living with the
Peppo-hoans, and said that many of them would be
glad to attend his meetings as well. They appeared
to have no particular religion of their own.
Chinese had long been trying to get this valley,
and the savages had been gradually finding them-
selves less able to resist their encroachments,
principally on account of the constant feuds between
themselves. They had therefore at last come to the
conclusion that it would be better to sell it to the
Peppo-hoans, who were so nearly related to them,
than to wait and probably have it taken from them
by the Chinese.
The chiefs promised Mr. M. and myself to be
kind to all foreigners that came into their territory,
especially the subjects of Her Majesty the Queen of
K 2
132
[CHAP. IV.
The Eastern Seas.
England; but stated that it would be impossible
for us to go on to the east coast as they were at war
with the neighbouring tribes, and could not supply
us with any guides in consequence. Our friends,
the Peppo-hoans, having completed their business,
and being anxious to return, we had no alternative
but to go back with them, it being evident to the
most casual observer, that it would be folly to try
to cross the island in this part without the assistance
of the tribes on the way. However, I trust our
visit to the tribes in this vicinity will not be fruit-
less, in the event of any strangers being thrown
into their hands. From the behaviour of these
tribes to us, and the advance they have made in
civilization as far as clothing, and neatness of their
houses, and manners to each other are concerned, I
came to the conclusion that if they were ever
brought under a firm and just government, they
would become a fine race of people; and could
easily be reclaimed from their present barbarous
practices, when the perpetual state of warfare was
put an end to. From their appearance, I consider
that they must be allied to the Japanese race, and
probably to the Malay. A quiet and confident
manner in intercourse with them, without any show
of distrust whatever, appeared to influence them in
the same way, even at the trying time when we
CHAP. IV.]
133
Leave-taking.
unexpectedly interrupted their drunken feast. Red
cloth appeared to be what they valued the most as
a present. A pig is also a great luxury with them.
The night before our return, it commenced to
rain and very disagreeable weather came on, and
our return journey was commenced in a downpour;
notwithstanding which, our party that were leaving,
and those that remained in the camp with the
savages, took leave of each other with shouting,
dancing, and firing off all the matchlocks that would
go off, the rain having damped the powder of many
of them. We found our journey to Sin-kang much
more painful and arduous than before, on account
of the wet: the streams we had crossed over dry
shod while going having now become torrents,
sometimes breast deep.
Our Chinese friend at the sugar mill again enter-
tained us, and was very glad to hear that the
bargain between the Peppo-hoans and savages had
been concluded satisfactorily; but he was much
grieved to hear of the murder of his countryman.
On leaving, Mr. M. presented him with a teapot of
Dutch glazed crockery, to which he had taken a
great fancy on account of the gilt on it. We
arrived at Sin-kang by night, wet through and
thoroughly tired.
I may as well mention here the result of the
134
[CHAP. IV.
The Eastern Seas.
treaty of the Peppo-hoans with the savages, and the
sad end to the new settlement. Shortly after we left
Sin-kang, great numbers of Peppo-hoans settled in
the valley, built a village, and cultivated the land.
A Chinese Christian teacher, and also two other
Chinese Christians went in with them. Everything
appeared to progress very favourably, and a road
was made to Sin-kang. Mr. M. visited them occa-
sionally. However, after a time, little misunder-
standings arose between the new settlers and the
savages. At last the three Chinese had occasion to
go to Sin-kang, and started on their journey. As
they did not arrive at their destination, a search
was made for them, and their bodies were at last
found, not far from the frontier with the heads
missing; from this mode of death it was believed
that they must have been murdered by the savages.
The Peppo-hoans after this became afraid for their
own safety, deserted the settlement, and returned
to their old home near Sin-kang.
Although the weather still continued very bad,
we could not afford the time to wait till it cleared,
although our friends at Sin-kang were anxious we
should do so. They all appeared very sorry at our
departure, especially the headman and his wife.
We had much difficulty in crossing some of the
rivers between Sin-kang and Teuxham, as they
CHAP. IV.]
135
The Return Fourney.
were very much flooded, and the current swept
down with great force. At our friend's house at
Teuxham, where we slept, as on our previous
journey, the water was more than an inch deep
in the bedroom, making it very uncomfortable.
During the night, I found my bed lifting up and
down, and moving in such an odd manner, that I
woke up; and then, after two or three grunts, a
large hog got out from underneath and went quietly
out of the room. This accounted for a vigorous.
attack from fleas that I received when I first lay
down, but no one is surprised at these companions
in a Chinese house, and I therefore had not trou-
bled myself about them much. From this place
we returned to Tam-sui by a different route, which
led to the east of the Kina-Yun Mountain, and
through the Chinese village of Go-kokke, where
the people were building a chapel, as there were
many Christians in the place. From thence we
returned to Tam-sui, having hired a small boat to
carry us down the river, and were heartily glad to
get back again and have a good bath and sleep
after the long journey. My friend Mr. M. was
unfortunately laid up with fever and ague for some
days after our return, from the exposure to sun and
rain, and the unwholesome rooms we slept in.
During my absence, a very good regatta had taken
136
[CHAP. IV.
The Eastern Seas.
place at Tam-sui, and the community, although
limited in number, showed that they were not
wanting in good-fellowship and hospitality to each
other and to strangers visiting the port.
On our return to Foo-Chow we luckily came in
for a fête given by the director of the arsenal, who
kindly asked the officers of the ship. The enter-
tainment consisted of a lunch to sixty-four people,
then dancing in the afternoon for those that wished,
while the others were at liberty to examine the
arsenal. It wound up with a dinner in the evening
and some capital theatricals at the French theatre
attached to the establishment, the performers being
the French employés belonging to the arsenal.
Everything went off very well, great good taste and
management being shown by the host and all the
officials.
On the 14th of January H.M. ship "Curlew "
arrived with five shipwrecked men from the Loo-
Choo Islands, who stated that they had been well
fed, clothed, and kindly treated by the natives,
who had even given them a feast on Christmas and
New Year's Day, having found out that these
were feast days with Englishmen.
While off the city of Foo-Chow, our ship's com-
pany gave a Christy Minstrel entertainment on
shore in a large godown or store-house, which was
CHAP. IV.]
137
Ball at Foo-Chow.
fitted up as a theatre. The bachelors of the settle-
ment gave a ball, but there were only twelve ladies
present to sixty gentlemen, which is rather diffe-
rent to the usual proportion in England. However,
the ladies performed their duty thoroughly, and
every one enjoyed himself to the utmost.
CHAPTER V.
SEARCH FOR A LORCHA-CHIN-CHEW-ARRIVE AT JAPAN-ACCOMPANY
THE COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF TO KOBÉ AND NAGASAKI.
On the evening of the 31st of March information
arrived that a lorcha belonging to and commanded
by an Englishman had been taken possession of by
the crew, and that the captain had been murdered.
The crew were Chinese, from the city of Chin-
Chew. It was therefore supposed that the lorcha
had been taken by them to the southward, and
either burnt or sold. The "Dwarf" put to sea at
once to search the coast, having the Vice-Consul
from Pagoda Anchorage on board to act as inter-
preter with the Chinese officials at the places we
intended to call at in our search. We carefully
examined all the bays and long inlets, and made
enquiries at different towns and villages on the
coast until we got to the harbour of Chin-Chew.
On our way we had met H.M. ship "Elk," which
was busily employed on the same errand. The
city of Chin-Chew is situated on a small river, and
is about nine miles from the nearest anchorage for
CHAP. V.] The City of Chin-Chew.
139
vessels, even of the light draught of a gun-vessel.
We anchored about 4 P.M. In consequence of
having to leave for Amoy the next day to meet the
Commander-in-Chief, I had no time to send word
to the prefect of the city that I wished to see him
on business, according to the usual etiquette on
those occasions before paying a visit of ceremony.
Soon after anchoring, the Vice-Consul, an officer of
the ship, and myself started in the gig with four
men and a Chinese pilot to go up the river to the
city. The wind and tide being fair for the greater
part of the way, we got up the river to the landing-
place about dusk. We then had to walk two miles
and a half through dirty suburbs and streets to the
prefect's yamun. At first we were shown to the
yamun of the district magistrate, but the Vice-
Consul fortunately read the title over the door, and
saw at once that this was not the man we wanted,
and thus saved us much time in explanations. We
were then shown on to the prefect's yamun, where
we were kept standing outside the large gates
while he was preparing to receive us. A noisy and
troublesome crowd soon assembled, and became
very annoying as it got dark. However, after
waiting about twenty minutes the great gates were
thrown open, and we were received by the prefect
in his robes. On our stating the object of our
140
[CHAP. V.
The Eastern Seas.
search, and requesting to know if he could give us
any information or assistance in the matter, he
said that he had heard nothing of the lorcha, but
would give orders that a diligent search for her and
her crew should be made in all the coast district
under his orders, and if he received any intelligence
that he would let us know at once. The visit
finished with tea being served and the usual civili-
ties exchanged. When returning through the city
we were followed by a large crowd, shouting at us
and occasionally throwing stones, some of which
struck us. Every time we turned round on the
people they ran away, but soon returned again.
However, at last we got back to the boat without
anything very serious having occurred, and had a
long pull down the river to the ship against the
wind, and arrived late at night.
Chin-Chew is a very large city, and is noted for
the number of stone arches in honour of Chin-
Chuans who have taken high degrees at the
literary examinations. It also possesses a fine
large stone bridge. At daylight the next day the
"Dwarf" left for Amoy, where we met the Com-
mander-in-Chief, and from there were sent on to
Hongkong to refit.
On the 31st of May, after having had a thorough
overhaul of everything, and finished the necessary
CHAP. V.]
141
Van Diemen's Straits.
repairs, we left Hongkong for Yokohama. Al-
though the S.W. monsoon usually sets in much
earlier than the end of May, we experienced
constant gales from the N.E., obliging us to steam
close up on the China coast and to go through the
Haitan straits with all yards and topmasts down
on deck. We called in at Tam-sui for coal, and
were then favoured with fair winds until we got to
the Van Diemen's Straits, where incessant easterly
gales obliged us at last to take shelter in the
Inland Sea. We entered it through the Boungo
channel and steamed to the treaty port of Kobé for
coal. We had been detained for five days in the
Van Diemen's Straits, working across under sail,
backwards and forwards, the sea being too heavy
for steam to be of use; and we hoped each day
that the wind would change or moderate. During
four days we found the current to be running at
the rate of thirty miles a day to the eastward, or to
windward, and therefore assisting us in keeping
our position under sail, but causing a very uncom-
fortable and heavy sea.
On the 5th day it suddenly
increased to sixty-six
miles, which enabled us
to struggle into the Boungo channel, where we
soon got calm water and fine weather. On the
coast of Japan the wind is often blowing a gale,
while in the Inland Sea it may be fine.
142
[CHAP. V.
The Eastern Seas.
We found the Inland Sea to be quite as beau-
tiful as it has always been represented. It is a
delightful place for yachting in, there being many
towns, castles and places of interest to be visited;
and permission to do so could easily be obtained
from the Government. I have always found the
officials and people at the different ports and
villages we sometimes called at, very civil and
obliging. The Japanese have built several light-
houses in the Inland Sea, which render the naviga-
tion much easier, especially at night. Every part
of the coast of Japan where there is any foreign
traffic, is also well lighted. The lighthouses are
well and economically built, and show a very good
light. We met H.M. ship "Cadmus " at Kobé.
After coaling we proceeded to Yokohama, where
we arrived on the 25th and met the Commander-
in-Chief again.
The foreign community have built fine and
comfortable houses at Yokohama; those situated
on the "Bluff" overlooking the town and bay are
particularly pretty, with pleasant gardens around
them, and plenty of trees. The camp of the Royal
Marine Battalion was placed on the "Bluff," and
kept in nice order; the huts carefully painted, and
the little gardens attached to them giving a
cheerful appearance. The officers kept a very good.
CHAP. V.]
143
Yeddo,
mess, and always showed themselves kind and
hospitable to strangers; some of them being
particularly obliging in showing new arrivals the
various sights and temples to be visited. Their
band, and pleasant afternoon parties, were a great
source of enjoyment to everyone.
The drive round by the race-course is very good,
and much frequented with carriages of an after-
noon. The temples and tombs of the Tycoons at
Yeddo are very beautiful from their carving,
gilding, and quantity of valuable bronze figures.
Each temple is surrounded by large trees and
gardens, which are always laid out with good taste.
In front of the temples there are numbers of large
lanterns of stone and bronze. The temples them-
selves are of very simple construction, being built
with enormous beams, and having high roofs of
wood.
The Japanese theatre at Yeddo was a large
building, with stage, pit and gallery, and the acting
was going on all day. The afternoon I visited it,
they were acting some historical piece; the dresses
were fine and rich, and there was a great deal of
fighting on the stage, the ladies in the play taking
an active part. The house was well attended, but
as I found the performance very monotonous I soon
left the theatre. The railway takes you to Yeddo
144
[CHAP. V.
The Eastern Seas.
in a short time from Yokohama, as it is only
eighteen miles.
The Japanese have made great progress with
their Navy, having English officers to assist them.
They copy the English as near as possible in dress
and exercise. The corps of Marines is well drilled,
and is a fine body of men; it is commanded and
instructed by an officer who was formerly in the
English service. There are many curios, consist-
ing of lacquer ware and bronzes, to be got at
Yokohama, but everything is much more expensive
than formerly, the old lacquer being very difficult
to get at all.
A slight shock of an earthquake took place
whilst we were here, but Japan is very subject to
them, and formerly suffered terribly from earth-
quakes and volcanic eruptions.
On the 8th of July, the "Dwarf" left Yokohama
in company with the "Iron Duke" (the Flagship)
and the "Thistle," and we arrived at Kobé on the
11th. Kobé is the foreign settlement near the
Japanese town of Hiogo. It is clean and well laid
out, and has much trade, its situation in the Inland
Sea being so central for the richest part of the
empire. The anchorage is very good in the winter,
when northerly winds prevail and are consequently
off the land; but in summer when the winds are
CHAP. V.]
145
Osaca.
from the south, a nasty sea sometimes rolls in, the
Isumi Nada being about thirty miles across. Kobé
is gradually taking the trade from the large city of
Osaca, which is also situated on this part of the
Inland Sea, about nine miles to the eastward.
Osaca has a small foreign community, and the
communication is kept up between the two places
by small steamers that run across the bay, and also
by train, which is being continued to Kioto the
ancient capital of Japan, a large and beautiful city.
The reason for the foreign trade increasing at
Kobé, and diminishing at Osaca, is on account of
the anchorage at the latter place not being so good
as at the former, and there being a nasty dangerous
bar across the entrance to the Osaca river. The
small trading and passenger steamers are com-
manded and manned by Japanese, who manage
them very well, but many of them are old and
rickety, and sometimes blow up. Their self-
confidence has assisted the Japanese in making the
great strides they have made in imitating other
nations. It is unfortunate that with the manners
and customs of Europeans, they cannot obtain
the solidity of character. At present they change
everything, even to their religion, without having
decided on any other to replace their former one;
consequently, although Sinto-ism still continues the
L
146
[CHAP. V.
The Eastern Seas.
nominal State religion, and Buddhism that of the
people, yet both are being treated with disrespect,
and the party of progress appear to care very little
about any religion at all. Christianity can make
little progress at present on account of the great
prejudice that still exists against it, which com-
menced in the seventeenth century, when it caused.
many wars and troubles in Japan.
There are some fine temples in the hills behind
the town of Kobé, of which the most famous is the
Temple of the Moon. It is situated about seven
miles from the settlement, near the top of a moun-
tain, and commands a most extensive view of the
Inland Sea, and all the coast and country in the
vicinity. It is surrounded by gardens and woods.
with pleasant paths. It is a favourite place of
pilgrimage for the Japanese, who sometimes live
here for a few days in houses attached to the temple
for that purpose, and which are kept clean and
comfortable by the priests. At a temple near the
settlement, a white horse is kept as a sacred animal.
People before starting on a sea voyage resort to
this temple, and buy small plates of beans to feed
the horse with, who is supposed to be able to grant
favourable winds and fair weather. I could not
find out how he managed for people who asked his
assistance, and were going in different directions at
CHAP. V.]
147
Praying to Dieboots.
the same time. For a present of a few copper
cash, a priest will pray to the idol Dieboots to grant
the request of his employer. He kneels down at
the altar and lights a candle for each person re-
quiring his good offices, sounds a gong and bows
three times, each time muttering a prayer to Die-
boots, accompanied with a most profound sigh.
After a few minutes he blows out the candles,
squats upon his haunches, and looks round smiling,
as if perfectly satisfied with his performance, and
very glad to get it over.
Several rivers cross the road between Kobé and
Osaca. In the dry season they have but little
water in them, but after heavy rains become perfect
torrents, sometimes flooding the country round.
The railway bridges over these rivers are there-
fore built on substantial iron cylinder screw piles,
screwed deep into the bed; the Japanese labourers
appear to work very well in driving them under
the direction of English engineers.
Osaca was famous for its large castle, but it has
now fallen into decay; it also possessed a govern-
ment mint, which had been brought from Hong-
kong, and was under the management of English
officials. The coinage in gold and silver was re-
markably well done, and the coins were of a con-
venient value, especially the gold coinage, which
L 2
148
[CHAP. V.
The Eastern Seas.
was equal to one pound sterling or nearly so, and
the silver coins about the value of four shillings,
two shillings, one shilling, and smaller pieces.
It was at Osaca that William Adams landed in
A.D. 1599. He was an Englishman, and had been
employed as a pilot to the Dutch squadron, that had
called at the neighbouring port of Saccai, also on
the Inland Sea. After having had an interview
with the Tycoon Iyeyas, he was taken into his
service, and sent to Yeddo. Iyeyas found him such
an honest and valuable man, that he raised him to
the rank of a Hatto-moto (a lower order of Daimio
or nobility), and gave him land producing sufficient
rice to support eighty families (a man's income
in Japan being reckoned by the number of cocos of
rice that he possesses). William Adams married a
Japanese and had a family; he lived to a good old
age, and died greatly respected.
About eleven miles to the west of Kobé, there is a
large castle situated on the side of a low hill over-
looking the town of Akashi, and the strait of the
same name which connects the two parts of the
Inland Sea, namely, the Harima nada and the Isumi
nada. Although the castle had been deserted for a
few years, it was still in a very good state of pre-
servation, and gave a good idea of what the feudal
castles of Japan were like. The grounds all round
CHAP. V.]
149
The Castle of Akashi.
and also inside the castle were thickly wooded with
fine large pine trees. It formerly belonged to a
very powerful Daimio, whose house was built in the
keep, in the centre of the castle. The keep, and
also the wall or rampart of the castle, was faced with
stones, which were very neatly fitted into each
other; watch-towers built like pagodas were placed
at the angles of the walls, and over the gates. The
castle was further protected by a wide moat nearly
all round it. The large body of the retainers or
samurai and their families lived in a town of their
own, immediately outside the castle. Their houses
were neatly built, many of them having little
gardens attached: the roads between the houses
were wide, and running at right angles to each
other. This little settlement contained formerly
about 1000 fighting men, who with their families
would make up a population of about 5000 persons.
Many of the houses were still inhabited by those
who were too old or infirm to commence life again
in some trade or profession, instead of subsisting on
the very small allowance given them by the govern-
ment since the abolition of the feudal system. This
little settlement was surrounded by a mud wall,
which was loopholed at the gates and where neces-
sary for defence; it was quite separate from the
commercial town, which is built on a small river
3.
150
[CHAP. V.
The Eastern Seas.
and is a place of considerable junk trade, being
situated at the narrowest part of the strait. The
river is sufficiently deep for small boats and junks
to obtain shelter in.
About A.D. 1590 and 1600, this castle belonged
to the Prince of Arima, who was a Christian, and
also a very powerful warrior; the greater part of
the province of Arima was also Christian at that
time; but
but eventually Christianity was entirely
stamped out of this part of Japan with great
cruelty. When looking over these fine castles it is
impossible to help thinking of the power and the
princely position held by their former owners, and
admiring the patriotism that caused them to give it
all
up, leave their castles and followers, and retire
into private life on a pecuniary compensation that
they received from the government. This hap-
pened at the time that the Mikado took up the real
power belonging to the crown, and the Tycoon was
deposed, and retired into private life. There are
hot springs in the mountains about fifteen miles
from Kobé, at a place called Arima; a very small
one also bubbles up about two miles from Kobé at
the foot of the mountains. The tea houses in the
ravines are very pretty, and much frequented,
especially those that are dotted about the valley,
where a beautiful waterfall comes down into a fine
CHAP. V.]
151
Simonoseki
pool for bathing in. This place makes a pleasant
afternoon's walk, as it is only about a mile and
a half from the settlement. The tokaido or high
road from Yeddo to Simonoseki passes through the
town of Kobé, and close to Hiogo. Near the settle-
ment it is macadamised, and kept in as good order
as a high road in England, but for the rest of the
way it is paved with rough stones. It is shaded by
large pine trees for a great part of the distance.
On the 15th of July the "Iron Duke" (flagship),
"Thistle," and "Dwarf " left Kobé for Nagasaki.
We anchored in the evening at a very good harbour
called Uchi-no-Uma in Soza-Sima Island, in the
Inland Sea. This island is of a good size, and is
very pretty, with a hilly country partly covered
with trees. We were told there were deer on it,
and other game. It is partially cultivated with
rice and sweet potato. I found a flower like the
English pink growing wild. We passed Simono-
seki Straits on the 18th. It was here that Sir L.
Kuper's action was fought in 1862, when he bom-
barded the forts in consequence of the Daimio
having fired on foreign vessels when passing
through the straits into the Inland Sea.
anchorage is not at all good, on account of the very
strong tides and rocky irregular bottom.
must have made the battle much more dangerous to
The
This
152
[CHAP. V.
The Eastern Seas.
the ships, from the great risk of getting on shore.
The Japanese junks anchor close in to the bank.
near the town. The houses in the town looked.
clean and neat, the telegraph hut and stations being
particularly conspicuous on account of their white
paint. The scenery in the straits is hilly, and well
cultivated, and there are fine woods in the vicinity..
After passing through the straits, we anchored at
the harbour of Furuye, in Hirado Island. In
former days the Portuguese had a settlement for
trade on this island, which at that time possessed a
large Christian population. Even now many of
the Japanese from this and the neighbouring
islands profess the Roman Catholic religion, and
visit the priests at Nagasaki, who are not allowed
to perform any religious ceremony except in the
foreign settlement there and at the other treaty
ports. The Christians on these islands appear to
have escaped the bitter persecution that their co-
religionists were subject to in the rest of the
empire. A Roman Catholic priest at Nagasaki
informed me that he believed the Japanese who
acknowledged the Roman Catholic faith numbered
nearly 20,000 in the southern part of Japan, but he
was sorry to say that a great part were Christians.
only in name, it being very difficult to meet and
teach them, in consequence of the jealousy of the

UNIV
OF
MICH
PAPPENBORG ISLAND, WHERE THE CHRISTIANS WERE THROWN OVER
THE CLIFF, A.D. 1636.
Page 153.
CHAP. V.] Massacre of Christians.
153
Japanese government. There are deer and phea-
sants on Hirado Island.
The next day we arrived at Nagasaki, and passed
close to the island of Pappenborg at the entrance.
This island has a steep cliff at one end of it, and
formerly possessed a fort; it is covered with fine
fir trees, and is very pretty. Its notoriety is caused
on account of this being the place where the Chris-
tians were brought in the year 1636. They were
landed and marched up to the top of the rock,
where a cross was placed on the ground, which
they were ordered to spit and trample on; those
that refused to deny their faith were hurled over
the cliff and dashed to pieces on the rocks beneath.
It is related that few of these Japanese gave way,
but preferred death to apostacy. Many of them
were crucified near the town of Nagasaki about the
same time. The Portuguese priests were also
butchered by their enemies.
In the Roman Catholic chapel at Nagasaki there
are two pictures describing the crucifixion of the
Japanese martyrs and the murder of the European
priests. The paintings are well done, but having
been painted in Europe, the artist has given the
Japanese Chinese dresses by mistake.
Dixon's History of Japan gives a very good
account of the rise and fall of Christianity in
154
[CHAP. V.
The Eastern Seas.
Japan. He shows what great power the Christians
possessed at one time, and that there was no wish
to persecute them at first, all sects and religions
being tolerated. That afterwards when they be-
came very numerous they behaved with great
tyranny towards the Buddhists, especially in the
southern provinces, where they had the upper hand.
Their cruelties at last became so great that all
other religions combined against them and a war of
extermination commenced which eventually went
against the Christians and completed their ruin.
The harbour of Nagasaki is very beautiful, and
has mountains all round which come right down to
the water; the numerous islands near the entrance
and all the land are covered with the brightest green
from the almost tropical climate and frequent rain.
Many of the hills are thrown up in a very irregular
manner and are evidently of volcanic origin. The
native town is situated at the end of the harbour in
a valley which has several streams running through
it. On the sides of the hills above the town are
built a great number of temples which are sur-
rounded with graveyards. Japanese graves gene-
rally consist of a single carved stone about a foot
square and two to three feet long, placed upright,
with a small jar in front to contain flowers which
are kept constantly renewed. These graves are
CHAP. V.]
155
Nagasaki-Coal Mines.
always placed in pretty situations among the trees.
At certain times in the year the children are sent
in the evening to burn candles at the graves of
their parents and relations; on these nights the
whole hill side is lighted up most brilliantly. The
foreign 'settlement is close to the harbour, clear of
the town, and looks pretty and gay with the flags
of the different consulates which are situated on
the rising ground above the other houses. Vege-
table wax is grown in the neighbourhood and is
exported in large quantities. Tea is also an article
of export. Although Nagasaki has a magnificent
harbour and ought to be a place of great trade, yet
it cannot be fully developed until good roads are
made into the town from the country. The
present roads are merely rough bridle paths over
the hills, and can only be used by pack horses
carrying very little, on account of the steep ascents.
The coal mines at the island of Tako-sima give a
large supply of quick burning coal, which was sold
by the Japanese government for eight dollars a
ton, and was exported in large quantities. The
mines were managed by an English engineer, the
labourers being Japanese.
It being the intention of the Commander-in-
Chief to visit the Russian possessions in Tartary
and Eastern Siberia, the "Iron Duke" and "Dwarf”
156
[CHAP. V.
The Eastern Seas.
proceeded to take as much coal on board as they
could conveniently carry for such a long cruise,
and also filled up with the necessary provisions.
The account of this voyage will be given in the next
Chapter.
CHAPTER VI.
VOYAGE TO THE RUSSIAN POSSESSIONS IN TARTARY AND EASTERN
SIBERIA-THE ISLAND OF YESSO.
ON the 26th July, 1873, the "Iron Duke,"
"Dwarf" and "Mosquito" left Nagasaki for a
cruise up the gulf of Tartary, and to visit the
Russian possessions as far north as the river Amur.
We first called at the island of Tsu-sima, which
belongs to Japan, and lies half-way between that
country and the Corea. The harbour is large and
safe, and it is perfectly land-locked. The island is
hilly and covered with trees. Although Tsu-sima
gives the title of Prince to one of the Daimios, the
inhabitants are very poor and few in number,
living by the fish they catch and a little cultivation
of rice, sweet potato, and hemp. The vicinity to
the Corea is its chief importance, in consequence
of its making a good place for the Japanese to
assemble their fleet and forces at in the event of
any future invasions of the Corea by them. There
are some small trout in the streams, and we found
the climate very pleasant. The "Mosquito "
158
[CHAP. VI.
The Eastern Seas.
parted company here to go to Shanghai with the
mails, while we continued our voyage up the sea
of Japan with a fair wind, and all sail set. We
passed along the coast of the Corea, which very
much resembles that of Japan.
On August 1st, we anchored off the Russian
settlement in Possiette Bay, which is in lat. 42°
40', and long. 130° 45′ E. The harbour is formed
by Novgorod Bay, and Expedition Bay, and is a
place of great importance on account of its being
situated close to the Tumen-Ula river, which forms
the boundary between Russia and the Corea.
The settlement merely consisted of a few wooden
huts, which were capable of holding two or three
companies of soldiers. The houses were very dirty
and badly built. The few natives we saw were
Mantchous, ugly and grimy, and live principally
by fishing. The soil appeared of a rich and dark
quality, and the few potatoes that were cultivated
appeared to grow very luxuriantly. It ought to
become a splendid country, when there are suffi-
cient people to cultivate it. We saw no large trees.
near the coast. Coal crops up near the settlement,
but it is not worked beyond what the garrison
requires for its own use. The Russians had a
camp with about 1000 soldiers about fifteen miles
farther inland. The entrance to the harbour is so
CHAP. VI.]
159
Possiette Bay.
narrow that it can easily be defended by a small
force, especially if torpedoes were used; there are
no batteries at present, although the hill where the
settlement is built would command the entrance
easily. We were told that this harbour rarely
freezes very hard or for long. There is but little
trade at present. A few small vessels call for
skins, dried edible seaweed and sea slugs for the
Chinese market. A gentleman who had made a
trading voyage to this place in a small schooner
told me that he had found spirits, dry goods, a few
sheep, and fowls, to be the most profitable articles
to sell or barter. There was so little live stock
to be got when we were there, that even a fowl
could hardly be bought at any price. Our
ship's company caught a great many fish with the
seine at the entrance of a small and shallow
river, flowing into Expedition Bay. We found
a good bed of oysters in Novgorod Bay near
the settlement, with the water so shallow that we
could tear them up with our hands from the boat.
The Russians said there were plenty of deer and
pheasants inland, but that we could not get any
without dogs, as the scrub was too thick to pene-
trate. They also told us that tigers were numerous
farther inland. The hills in the neighbourhood
were low and undulating, and very different to
160
[CHAP. VI.
The Eastern Seas.
Japanese scenery. The climate was pleasant, but
very foggy near the sea, although the fogs do not
prevail far inland.
H.M. ship "Elk" joined us on the 3rd with a
mail; after which we proceeded to the settlement
of Vladivostok, where we arrived on the 5th, having
had to grope our way along in a fog. I have often
noticed on this coast, that the fog lifts a little close
to the land, and as the cliffs come down pretty
steep into deep water, with few outlying rocks, the
navigation is not so dangerous as it otherwise
would be.
Vladivostok, also called the Golden Horn, can be
entered from either end of the channel called the
Eastern Bosphorus, and is a deep and safe harbour,
well fitted for defence and to become the principal
naval station in Eastern Siberia. It is about seventy
miles from Possiette Bay. For a great part of the
distance, an inner channel leads by a very good
passage inside the Eugénie Archipelago of islands,
which form a sheltered inland sea for vessels and
boats trading in the numerous bays on that part of
the coast.
The Russians have already established a dockyard
and building slip for small vessels, and when the
plant of machinery is brought down from the dock-
yard of Nikolaevsk, and the change of head quarters

Page 160.
UNIL
Σ
GF
BICH
VLADIVOSTOK, EASTERN SIBERIA.
CHAP. VI.]
161
Vladivostok.
is thoroughly completed, it will be a very good and
useful naval port. Several war vessels are stationed
here, the crews of which are landed in the winter,
and quartered in fine barracks made of wood.
There was a garrison of about 400 soldiers who
also had good barracks. I was informed that the
harbour is rarely sufficiently frozen to interrupt
communication entirely for any length of time,
except in very severe winters. When we were in
the harbour there were three Russian war vessels.
present, a government tug, and several steam
launches belonging to the dockyard.
There was not much cultivation in the neighbour-
hood, although the soil appeared very fertile, and
wherever vegetables had been planted in the
gardens they were growing luxuriantly. When
the rest of the officials come to live here from
Nikolaevsk, it will soon become a much more
flourishing place, as it has every capability for
doing so. Some good trout and salmon peel were
caught by the officers of the ships, in a stream
about two miles from the settlement. We also had
good deer shooting on one of the neighbouring
islands. On one occasion the Russian officials
kindly placed a steam launch at the disposal of the
officers of our ships, who landed at Kazakavitch
Island, and, forming a line across one of the long
M
162
[CHAP. VI.
The Eastern Seas.
peninsulas, walked down towards the end, driving
the deer before them, and they managed to shoot
seven red deer; the undulating hills covered with
fern and trees, much resembled the scenery of
Mount Edgecombe. The ship's company caught
great quantities of salmon with the seine near the
end of the harbour. The church belongs to the
Greek Christians, and is built of wood; the houses.
of the officials are also made of wood, and are kept
whitewashed, which causes them to show out well
from the water against the green country behind.
There was only one English merchant living here,
who kept a small store. He showed us every atten-
tion, and was of great service to the sportsmen.
The harbour is well capable of defence, and from
its position with regard to Japan, the Corea, and
China, will be a most important station in the event
of
any troubles in the East. Of this the Russians
appear to be fully aware, by concentrating their
forces here, and making it the head quarters for the
Siberian or local squadron, which is under the
orders of the Governor General of Eastern Siberia,
and distinct from the Pacific squadron, which is
under a Commander-in-chief of its own. At
present the Russians keep a naval dépôt at
Nagasaki in Japan, where they generally dock their
ships for repair and refit. Their ships always
CHAP. VI.]
163
Vladivostok.
appear to have a great quantity of men belonging
to them, as far as I could judge more than either
the American or French vessels of a similar size
and class.
The Russian government have established schools
here for the children. One morning I noticed the
girls' school out for a walk on the road near the
beach, while I was on board the ship. The order
they marched in was most accurate; first walked
the mistress with an umbrella, then all the girls
in pairs, the smallest first, and tallest last, in the
shape of a wedge; the girls wore large sun bonnets,
but carried no umbrellas like the mistress.
effect was very comical.
The

WEDGE-SHAPED PROCESSION OF GIRLS.
While here, two couple of Protestants took the
opportunity of getting married by the chaplain of
the "Iron Duke," as there was only a Greek priest
at. Vladivostok. They had waited patiently for a
long time, and hailed the arrival of the British flag-
M 2
164
[CHAP. VI.
The Eastern Seas.
ship with joy, for putting an end to their long en-
gagement.
From this place you can telegraph to Europe,
through Japan and Shanghai, and also direct
through Siberia to St. Petersburg. All places of
importance on the coast are connected by the tele-
graph. The climate in the summer is very plea-
sant, although it is dreary and cold in the winter.
There is a curious little kiosk on the top of a
hill overlooking the harbour; the people have
built a good bathing house in the harbour, to enjoy
the excellent sea bathing. Altogether it bids fair
to become a very pleasant as well as important
place.
The "Mosquito" joined us on the 12th, when
we proceeded to Wrangel Bay, and we arrived the
same evening. Wrangel Bay is a beautiful land-
locked harbour inside of the large bay called Ame-
rica Bay, and is capable of holding a large fleet;
we found only a few Tartars here who lived in
wretched and dirty huts. They subsisted chiefly
by fishing, although at one place they were culti-
vating the opium poppy to a slight extent. When
the poppy is sufficiently grown, the head of it is
scratched all round to let the juice ooze out and
harden by exposure to the air. It is then scraped
off and collected. A small patch of flax was also
CHAP. VI.]
165
Nakhodka Harbour.
growing close to the huts, but there appeared no
other signs of cultivation. The hills, which are
not high, and the country all round was covered
with thick scrub, very difficult to penetrate, and
long grass up to one's breast, which afforded excel-
lent cover for deer and game. The ships' com-
panies caught salmon and trout in the seine at the
river at the end of the bay. On the 14th the
Commander-in-Chief and his staff embarked on
board the "Dwarf," and steamed to Nakhodka
harbour, about seven miles off, where there is a
small Russian military settlement consisting of
two officers and fifty men. It had a government
schooner moored off it. As there were no other
settlers, it must have been painfully dreary work
for the people, few of whom had wives; there were
no roads from the settlement, except a small path
kept open for bringing in wood. The houses were
well built of large logs of wood, and fitted with
double windows. It had formerly been a station
for 200 men, but since the Russians had advanced
farther south, so large a force was no longer neces-
sary. Many of the houses were falling to decay.
The harbour is too small for large vessels. The
officers said tigers were numerous inland, and that
one of them had carried off his dog from the settle-
ment a short time before. In the evening we
166
[CHAP. VI
The Eastern Seas.
returned to our former anchorage near the rest of
the squadron.
On the 15th we all left for Olga Bay, which is
about 150 miles farther up the coast, and on our
way ran along gaily before a fair wind, the large
iron-clad and two little gun-vessels occasionally
trying their rate of sailing with all possible sail set,
and at other times keeping station as carefully as
they would do in company with a large fleet. The
"Mosquito" had been sent away with the mail
when we left Wrangel Bay.
land terminated in low cliffs.
Near Olga Bay the
Low Table Point is
a capital mark to show the entrance to the harbour,
and Brydone Island shows out well against the
land, as it is like a cliff towards the sea, and the
hills behind are covered with dark fir trees. Olga
Bay contains an outer and an inner harbour. The
outer one, where the squadron anchored, is quite
safe. The Russian settlement is situated on the
inner harbour, which is a beautiful basin with a
very narrow entrance from the outer harbour, and
quite concealed by the land between. We found
two Russian steam corvettes at anchor in the inner
harbour. The settlement seemed a busy and
thriving place, the only one where we saw any
farming carried on; cattle and sheep were plentiful
and cheap, and we caught plenty of salmon with
CHAP. VI.]
167
St. Vladimir Bay.
the seine, from nine pounds weight and under. In
the streams we caught a few trout with the fly.
The temperature of the sea water in August was
60° and the air 68°. On this coast the cold current
of water from the Arctic comes down inshore, while
the warmer water of the Japan current runs to
the northward farther from the mainland, the dif-
ferent temperatures of the water causing constant
fogs.
On the 17th we proceeded to St. Vladimir Bay,
which is about forty miles to the northward, and
had to grope our way along in a fog, which became
so dense that we were compelled to drop an anchor
at last outside of the entrance for a few hours. In
the afternoon the fog cleared off for a short time,
and we found the entrance of the harbour close to
us, we therefore steamed inside, and anchored in
South Bay. St. Vladimir Bay is a large harbour
-containing several bays inside of it, quite sheltered
from all winds. There are several streams running
into the harbour, where we saw some Tartars spear-
ing salmon from their canoes, but the fish would
not take the fly at all. The "Iron Duke" sent
her seining party to haul the seine in a large fresh-
water lagoon, where they caught some excellent
trout. The officers took the opportunity to get up
a picnic at the same place, some taking their guns
168
[CHAP. VI..
The Eastern Seas.
and some their fishing-rods with them, there being
sport for all, deer, duck, snipe, and trout. After
the forenoon's amusements we all mustered for
lunch. As soon as the Admiral was seen to be.
coming from the ship to join the fun, all those that
had guns fell in ready to receive him as a guard of
honour. Every one was in a very odd and rough
shooting costume, especially the captain of the
company, who, having got his trousers wet while
seining, had tied a rug round his lower limbs while
the trousers were drying; but this impromptu gar-
ment did not at all conceal a remarkably good pair
of calves. When the admiral arrived, the guard
gave a general salute, and then fired fifteen guns,
and afterwards we all pitched into lunch with great
gusto. Several deer were seen, but none were shot,
as the scrub was too thick to penetrate far. The
trees were small and of no great value, being ordi-
nary forest trees. The same afternoon a party
from the "Dwarf" caught large quantities of
salmon, rock cod, and flat fish with the seine at the
entrance of a salt-water lagoon about two miles
farther off. We found quantities of wild duck
among the long reeds round some salt-water ponds.
close to the anchorage at South Bay.
On the 19th of August, we left St. Vladimir
harbour at daylight, and arrived at Pallas Bay,
CHAP. VI.]
169
Pallas Bay.
The
about 420 miles to the northward, on the 21st. On
our way we experienced a moderate S.E. gale which
veered to the S.W., and afterwards to W.S.W.
when the weather moderated and became fine.
summer gales on this coast are usually of short
duration, commencing from the S.E. with thick
misty rain, but as soon as the wind comes from the
land the weather clears. On the above-mentioned
occasion the barometer fell to 29.71, the usual height
being 29.90, and the thermometer stood at 72
degrees. Pallas Bay is one of the inner bays in
that magnificent large harbour called Port Imperial
by the Russians, and Barracouta harbour by the
English. The different bays and harbours inside
are so landlocked and well concealed from each
other, that vessels might easily lie in adjacent
anchorages, actually within a very short distance of
each other but quite out of sight. Pallas Bay is so
named on account of the Russians having destroyed:
their frigate called the "Pallas" here, to prevent
her from falling into the hands of the English
during the war. None of the wreck is now visible,
although the timbers still remain under water, as
our seining party found to their cost in consequence
of the net becoming entangled in the timber while
fishing, to such an extent that it required the diver
from the "Iron Duke" to assist us before we could
170
[CHAP. VI.
The Eastern Seas.
get it clear.
The country had quite altered in
character as regards vegetation and scenery, since
leaving St. Vladimir harbour. The low rocky hills
come steep down to the water, and are densely
covered with forests of fir trees, and the water is
generally deep quite close up to the rocks. It was
very similar to the scenery in the long inlets in
Newfoundland. The climate also appeared much
the same; sometimes when it was blowing hard and
the weather was misty outside, there would be little
wind and the weather would be comparatively fine
inside the harbour where we were anchored. I
have often noticed this to be the case in Newfound-
land also. Another point of resemblance was in the
great beauty of the reflection of the rocks and forest
in the clear water during the early morning before
the breeze set in; the solemn stillness of the scene
being only broken by the flapping of the wings of
the divers and wild duck. The fir trees near the
coast do not grow so large as those farther inland,
and I noticed that those that were large enough to
be used for spars for vessels were constantly rotten
in the centre. On enquiring about it I was in-
formed by the Russians that this disease only
affected those on the coast, that the trees inland
grow to a larger size and are quite sound through-
out. The Russian government will not allow any
CHAP. VI.]
171
Pallas Bay.
trees to be cut without their consent, the forests
being crown property. There was a small military
settlement at Pallas Bay, consisting of a serjeant's
guard, who live in good substantial log houses.
The men are employed in cutting wood for the use
of the Russian war ships that call here and require
it, as no coal has yet been found in the neighbour-
hood. The wood helps the coal out very well,
although it burns quickly. On our return to this
place from the north, we cut wood to use on board
the "Dwarf," and found that about six tons of
wood were hardly equal to one of coal; had our
furnaces been fitted for burning wood, it would
have answered better.
There was no attempt at cultivation or at grow-
ing even vegetables here, although vegetables grow
well at Nikolaevsk which is much farther to the
northward; the reason given was that the guard
was constantly changed, and would never be able
to reap the benefit of what they had sown or
planted. The men were on rations the same as on
board ship; a vessel of war calls in at regular periods
to supply them with provisions. There were only
two Russian women and a few children to enliven
the garrison. The natives appeared of a mixed
race, with something of the Esquimaux and Tartar
in them; they wore a tail like the Tartars, but used
172
[CHAP. VI.
The Eastern Seas.
their canoes like Esquimaux with double paddles.
The natives were glad to sell us splendid salmon for
a little biscuit, rice, or old clothes, but did not
appear to care about money. There was a capital
salmon river at the end of the harbour, but it had
so many spent and dead fish in it that there was no
fly fishing to be done.
We were all glad to find H.M. ship "Cadmus "
here on our arrival with letters from England: she
made a very acceptable addition to the squadron,
and enlivened us all with very good theatricals one
evening. On these long cruises the interchange of
civilities and hospitality between the officers and
men of the different ships is of the greatest value
in promoting harmony and making our profession
a pleasanter one than it would otherwise be, by
breaking the monotony of ship life, and by cheering
Jack up after a.hard day's work. Some good bags
of duck and snipe were made here by some of the
officers.
On the 26th, we all left the harbour. When
outside, the Cadmus parted company to go to Dui
on the island of Sagalien for coal. The "Iron
Duke" and "Dwarf" continued their journey to
Castrie bay, and arrived there on the 27th, and
anchored inside of Oyster Island. The "Elk" had
been sent away with the mail a few days before.
CHAP. VI.]
173
The River Amur.
Castrie Bay is not near such a good and safe
harbour as those other ones on this coast that we
had lately visited. Before the Russians decided on
making Vladivostok their head quarters, this bay
was of much greater importance than it will be in
future, on account of all large vessels having to
anchor here that wished to communicate with the
Amur river; small ships received their pilots at
this place to take them up to the town of
Nikolaevsk. There is quick communication with
the Amur over a short strip of land, and then by a
small steamer across a lake, which cuts off a very
long distance round. The telegraph comes down
to the town from Nikolaevsk. The town at Castrie
Bay was small; there were two gun-vessels and a
small gun-boat here on our arrival belonging to the
Siberian squadron.
In consequence of the Commander-in-Chief
wishing to visit Nikolaevsk, and the river being
too shallow for the "Iron Duke" to go up, he
embarked on board the "Dwarf" with his staff at
midnight on the 28th. We then weighed and
made sail when outside to a moderate S.E. gale,
having timed our departure so as to arrive off the
outer banks about daylight. We had to proceed
very cautiously on account of the heavy sea on the
banks, many of which had altered since the last
174
[CHAP. VI.
The Eastern Seas.
survey,
and we had not been able to obtain a pilot
for the river. At daylight the weather cleared,
and we made out the land near Cape Pronge; soon
after that we got safely over the outer bar, and
then for the rest of the way up the river the
Admiralty chart appeared nearly correct. The
marks on shore were excellent and consisted of two
triangles of wood painted white, which showed out
most distinctly against the dark fir trees. The
channel is very narrow and intricate; even for a
vessel drawing only eight feet and a half of water,
it was necessary to be very careful in keeping the
marks exactly on to prevent grounding. The
entrance of the river is about seventy-five miles
from Castrie Bay, and Nikolaevsk is about eighty
miles farther up the Amur. We anchored off the
town at 7 o'clock in the evening. The hills on
each bank are low, and covered with fir trees; the
soil is rocky, but rich in the valleys.
The morning after our arrival, the Commander-
in-Chief paid an official visit to the Russian
Governor General Admiral Crown, who spoke
English perfectly. "Droskys" were waiting for Sir
Charles and the officers that accompanied him on
landing, and they soon rattled us all up to the
government house. The government house was
built of wood, and was not very large, but was
CHAP. VI.]
175
The River Amur.
very comfortably furnished, and had a small garden
around it. The streets of the town run at right
angles to each other, and have pavements of wooden
planks for foot passengers in order that they may
be more easily kept clear of snow in the winter.
The houses are made of wood, and fitted with
double windows to keep the extreme cold out.
Many of the houses were unoccupied, as the
officials had already commenced removing to Vladi-
vostok to prepare for the arrival of the governor
general there the next year.* A great deal of the
machinery from the dockyard had also been sent
down. The cultivation was confined to a few
kitchen gardens belonging to some of the houses ;
in them we saw potatoes, beans, peas, vegetable
marrow, and a few other vegetables, which appeared
to grow very well. All the corn and cattle for the
use of the settlement is brought down the river
in flat-bottomed cargo boats, which are towed by
small steamers from a very fertile country in the
* When I left the China station at the end of 1874, the Governor-
General had not changed his own residence to Vladivostok, and it was
rumoured at that time that he would probably take up his residence
at a town called Khabarovka, which is situated at the junction of the
Amur and Oussouri rivers, a most commanding situation midway
between Nikolaevsk and Vladivostok. The country in that neighbour-
hood is represented to be very fertile, and is famed for the exploits
of the Russian captain Khabaroff against the Tartars more than 200
years ago.
176
[CHAP. VI.
The Eastern Seas.
interior, commencing about five hundred miles from
the town, and continuing into the heart of Siberia.
Mr. Atkinson's work on the Upper and Lower
Amur gives a most exhaustive description of all
that country.
The mail takes about sixty days to go to St.
Petersburg. In the summer the journey is per-
formed for some part of the way by steamers on
the Amur, then by horses or drosky, and after-
wards by rail when in the more civilized parts of
Russia. In the winter, when the river is frozen
hard, sledges are used instead of the steamers.
For about six weeks in the spring and autumn
while the river is neither frozen hard, nor yet free
from ice, the communication is uncertain and
irregular. The Amur Steam Navigation Company
possesses small steamers well adapted for the trade
on the river, which is carried up and down in flat-
bottomed cargo boats; some of the steamers and
boats draw only two feet of water, and some of the
steamers are fitted with a wheel in the stern for
the narrow parts of the rivers, which they navigate
for nearly 2000 miles. The steamers were built
principally in England, brought out in pieces, and
put together at Nikolaevsk, where they are re-
paired.
The director of the Company was formerly an
'CHAP. VI.]
177
Nikolaevsk.
officer in the Russian navy, but had retired from it
when he received this appointment from the
government, in consequence of his having sug-
gested the scheme of making use of the Amur by
small steamers. He had the rank of colonel in the
army given him in exchange for his naval rank.
He spoke English perfectly, and behaved very
courteously in showing us everything we wished
to see, and giving us all the information in his
power.
The quantity of salmon in the river is enormous.
A party of Russians hauled the seine in a small
sandy bay not far from the ship, and at each haul
it generally came in as full of salmon as it could
hold.
The first day of our arrival, salmon was sold
alongside the ship at the rate of six for one dollar,
the fish weighing from six to nine pounds; after-
wards, when our people were not too ready to buy,
they were sold at thirty for the dollar, and the last
day they came down to fifty for a dollar, the value
of the dollar being about four shillings and two-
pence. When we left we had as much on board as
would keep fresh for the ship's company, and also
as much as we could salt for ourselves and the rest
of the squadron at Castrie Bay. There are repre-
sentatives of many different tribes of natives here.
N
178
[CHAP. VI
The Eastern Seas.
Tartars, Ghiliaks, and Ainos, who live almost
entirely on fish. They appeared hardy, and are
of an olive complexion; some of them wore a
short tail. Skins, and everything except salmon,.
whether for food or household use were most
expensive. We found several merchant vessels of
different nations at anchor off the town.
The governor-general invited the admiral, secre-
tary, flag-lieutenant, and myself to a lunch at the
government house. It was given in the Russian
style, and was very good. Several military officers
were present. After lunch we all drove out into
the country in droskys, where we got out and
walked, and picked wild raspberries, which were
very nice. The country was rough and wild, and
the roads would have been fatal to the springs of
ordinary carriages, although our Russian drivers
rattled their shaggy horses over them famously. I
can easily understand what I was told of the great
fatigue of a journey across Siberia, because in a
very short time the excessive jolting makes you
wonder who's bones you have inside your body.
After our drive we had dinner with a larger com-
pany than before, but we broke up early, and got
on board by 9 P.M.
Sir Charles made several observations of the
magnetic dip here, as he was in the habit of doing
CHAP. VI.]
179
Nikolaevsk.
at every place he visited. The result of these
observations will be of great value by comparing
them with those obtained by himself and other
scientific officers in former years.
As an example of the different routes to England
that can be made use of from Nikolaevsk, I sent
one letter home through Siberia, another across the
United States of America, and a third by the
Peninsular and Oriental and Brindisi route. The
Peninsular and Oriental arrived the first, then the
American one, and last of all the Siberian, which
was a month longer, although it had started a few
days before the others. From St. Petersburg they
can telegraph to Nikolaevsk and Vladivostok, then
from there to Japan, and back by China and India,
thus making a complete circuit. The Russian line
is the cheapest, and having no interruption, except
at St. Petersburg, a telegram will reach England by
this route much quicker than by the other. We
had fine and pleasant weather while in the Amur,
the temperature being about 70°. We remained
till the 2nd of September, and were all sorry to
leave when the order was given. As we fortunately
had a strong N.E. wind back with us, we arrived
at Castrie Bay the same night, and the Commander-
in-Chief changed his flag to the "Cadmus," which
was waiting in the harbour to receive him, his flag-
N 2
180
[CHAP. VI.
The Eastern Seas.
ship having gone to Sagalien for coal. In conse-
quence of the "Dwarf" being very small for so
many passengers, we made a tent of double canvas
abaft the mizen-mast, where five of us slept in cots;
another officer was accommodated in the wardroom,
and the admiral had the captain's cabin. It was
not only a very interesting cruise, but a very
pleasant one also, notwithstanding the squeeze on
board, every one being determined to make the
best of it.
The day after our arrival both the ships sailed to
Barracouta Harbour, and anchored in Pallas Bay,
where we found the "Iron Duke" had arrived
before us, having obtained her coal at Dui, in
Sagalien Island. The admiral therefore changed
his flag to his own ship from the "Cadmus."
There is plenty of coal to be got at Dui, but there
is unfortunately only an open bay, and not good for
vessels to anchor in. The weather is so unsettled
and stormy that it is necessary to be prepared to
put to sea on short notice, and sometimes ships take
a long time to get a cargo of coal in consequence.
The mines are worked by Russian convicts who
have been transported for life, as this is considered
one of the worst convict stations in the empire.
The southern half of Sagalien contains great quan-
tities of coal; it formerly belonged to Japan, but by
CHAP. VI.]
181
Forest on Fire.
recent treaties has become Russian. There are
no harbours in any part of the island; the Japanese
merely possessed a few fishing villages on the
southern part, the climate being too severe for them
to flourish in.
While we lay at Pallas Bay, an occurrence took
place that might have ended very seriously. On
the 8th, it was discovered that the forest behind
the settlement was on fire. A party of men from one
of the ships was sent to put it out before it spread
far. After much trouble they thought that they
had done so, but, in consequence of the deep moss,
the fire continued to smoulder underneath, and at
last burst out again furiously, having travelled from
the original place where the trees had been cut
down for firewood to the large trees around. It
was a splendid sight to see the flames rush up the
trees with a roar, and then the trees would come
down with a crash when burnt through. Strong
parties of seamen and marines were sent from our
squadron, to try and prevent the fire from spreading
to the Russian settlement, by cutting lanes through
the trees between the fire and the settlement. But
this had very little effect in stopping the progress
of the fire; because, when the fire found no trees
to jump to, it ran along by the thick moss, which
was about two feet deep and burnt like tinder, and
182
[CHAP. VI.
The Eastern Seas.
so beat us that way. Fortunately there was no
wind at the time. We then confined our efforts to
cutting the fir trees down in a circle behind the
settlement, clearing them away, and then digging
a trench and clearing away the moss, fir cones, and
dead wood. Our blue-jackets worked hard with
axes, picks, and shovels, all the 9th, during the
night as well as the day. Sometimes the fire blazed
up so high, and the sparks flew so far, that it
seemed impossible to save the houses. The Russian
soldiers had sent off their valuables, and were ready
to embark themselves in the flagship's boats if
necessary. It continued burning all the 10th, and
kept our people still hard at it, who found it no
easy work to clear the ground, and cut through
the roots of the trees; and caused many of us to
come to the conclusion that it must be pretty tough
work for emigrants who settle in the backwoods and
clear their land, and that it would take a long time
to clear away sufficient to make a living. On the
night of the 10th, a light breeze sprung up, which
sent the sparks so thickly over the harbour, that
the "Iron Duke" had to change her anchorage, to
keep clear of them for fear of catching fire; the
sparks flew as high as the masts, and there was
danger of their lodging in the sails and burning
them. The fire by this time had burnt down to our
CHAP. VI.] The Island of Yesso.
183
1
:
trench, which the officers and men strove hard to
keep it from crossing, by beating it out and throw-
ing water on it. Many of them got burnt and
bruised from falling trees, although none were
seriously hurt; but it was warm work. Although
the trees had been cut down for some distance
in front of the trench to prevent us from being
scorched by the heat, yet nothing could have
saved the houses, had not the wind fortunately
changed when we were commencing to despair
and feel that, although everything had been done
that could be, our men were getting used up by
fatigue and heat, and the flames were still gaining
Towards morning a breeze sprang up from
the S.E. accompanied with thick drizzly weather,
which eventually became a gale with heavy rain.
By the wind coming from this direction, the fire
was driven on to the part of the forest that had
been already burnt, and soon went down, leaving
the settlement quite safe.
on us.
The "Cadmus " had left us here to carry a mail
to Japan and on the 11th, after finding everything
was safe on shore as regarded the fire, the "Iron
Duke" and "Dwarf" left for Hakodaté, in the
island of Yesso, belonging to Japan. When out-
side we got separated from the flagship in a gale,
and afterwards, on rejoining her, were directed to
184
[CHAP. VI:.
The Eastern Seas.
make the best of our way to save the coal as much
as possible, the weather having become very un-
settled as the season was well advanced, and the
autumn gales had set in early on this coast. When
off the West Coast of Yesso, we encountered a
heavy gale from the S.W. We were then sailing
along near the shore in the large bay called Iskarri,
of which we had no good chart on board. We
noticed that there were several Japanese junks in
a bay that was not marked in our chart, and that
looked inviting and well sheltered. Finding the
wind and sea increasing so much that we could not
weather Cape Tomamoy, the most westerly cape
in Yesso, even by using steam, we ran cautiously
into the bay and anchored near the junks in seven
fathoms water.
The next day it blew very hard, we therefore
amused ourselves by making a survey of the bay,
as it appeared a very good one and free from rocks.
We found the western point near the village to be
in lat. 43° 17′ 45″ N. and long. 140° 35′ 15″ E.,
and about ten miles from Cape Tomamoy. The
best anchorage was in from five to eleven fathoms
of water. The only winds that it is open to are
those from N.N.W. to N.E., but the natives told us
these rarely prevail, and seldom blow hard; indeed
the position of the houses, which are built close
CHAP. VI.]
185
The Inos.
down to the water, showed us that a very heavy
sea could not roll in often, or they would be washed
away. The country round was mountainous, and
the cliffs bold and rugged. The villages looked
very pretty nestling in under them, the high roofs.
of the temples giving a very quaint appearance to
the villages.
Two Japanese Bhuddist priests came on board
with a large number of attendants to pay their
respects and make enquiries about the reason of
our visit. They were very polite, and brought us
a present of sweet biscuits and flowers. We had
tea and wine in the cabin, and they seemed much
pleased to see the ship, the guns, and other things.
that they said they had not seen before. They
called their village Maro-Yama. Numbers of the
natives came on board to see the ship. Some of
them were Japanese, but the greater part were
Inos, a race that inhabits Yesso, the north of
Niphon and Sagalien, and are treated with great
contempt by the Japanese. They had a great
quantity of thick black hair, and a dull and heavy
expression of countenance. The Japanese are
mostly the shopkeepers here, and more wealthy
than the Inos, who live by fishing and cultivating
just sufficient for their immediate wants. The
Japanese have credit for honesty, but on this occa-
186
[CHAP. VI.
The Eastern Seas.
sion we missed several things when our visitors
left-a pair of double-glasses belonging to one
officer, and soap out of some of the cabins, for
which, I suppose, the Inos are responsible, as they
have no character to lose, and would certainly be
all the better for a little soap. Although our
friends, the priests, said that they would try to
recover the glasses, they did not succeed in doing
so, but told us at last that they were afraid the
thief knew that by their law he was liable to lose
his head for his offence, and had therefore concealed
or made away with the glasses. There is a large
valley at the end of the bay between the hills, with
a stream running through it, where there is a
great quantity of trout. The country inland was
wild and uncultivated, and it was very difficult to
penetrate the thick woods of scrub and small forest
trees. The population was very small, and evi-
dently did not inhabit much beyond the coast line.
On the 17th we put to sea, and tried to get
round Cape Tomamoy as the wind had hauled
round more from the W.N.W.; but when well out-
side of the bay it blew so hard that it was not
possible to struggle round it, as the sea was very
heavy, and made our screws come out of water at
every dive; we therefore wore round and ran back
to our snug little anchorage again. However, on
CHAP. VI.]
187
Hakodaté.
the following day the wind moderated, and we got
clear away and arrived at Hakodaté all safe, where
we found the flagship at anchor, having arrived the
day before. She had been compelled to lay-to at
sea during the gale that we had quietly ridden out
at anchor in our little bay. The harbour of Hako-
daté is situated on the south side of the island of
Yesso, and on the north of the Straits of Tsugar.
It is a very safe harbour, and when the island of
Yesso is more colonised by the Japanese, and opened
out, will probably become a place of considerable
importance, in consequence of the quantity of coal
and sulphur mines in the island. The trade at pre-
sent is conducted principally by junks that bring
rice from China or other parts of Japan, and take
back dried seaweed in return. The mails are car-
ried to Yokohama by a steamer once a month;
there is also a Japanese post that runs regularly by
land through the island of Niphon.
The country is of volcanic formation, the moun-
tains running up into peaks, those above the town
of Hakodaté bearing some resemblance to Gibraltar,
on account of their being connected with Yesso by
a low sand spit. It was at this place that the naval
action was fought between the forces of the Mikado
and the Tycoon, which decided the fate of the
latter, who surrendered the executive power into
188
[CHAP. VI.
The Eastern Seas.
the hands of the Mikado, and was afterwards
allowed to retire into private life. It is said that
many of his followers were dissatisfied at his not
performing the "Hari-kari," and disembowelling
himself according to the custom of high-minded
Japanese noblemen when they are defeated. The
wreck of one of the Tycoon's steamers was still
lying on the beach when we were at Hakodaté.
The harbour is protected by a fort at the entrance;
the ruins of another fort still remain on the sandy
spit connecting the town with the island of Yesso.
The foreign society is very limited, consisting prin-
cipally of the officials belonging to the different
consulates, and in the summer several of the resi-
dents of Yokohama come here for the benefit of
their health during the hot weather, the climate
being pleasant in the summer, but very cold and
dreary in the winter, with much snow and stormy
weather.
The volcano and sulphur springs about twenty-
two miles inland are well worth a visit on account
of the pretty scenery on the road, which winds
between the hills and round the borders of a lake.
Here and there you pass through ravines which are
overhung with precipitous rocks and crowned with
forest trees. Some American gentlemen have
established a farm about half-way out, at the
CHAP. VI.]
189
The Island of Yesso.
expense of the Japanese government, to endeavour
to encourage cultivation among the people. They
have also made a fine road, and planted a Japanese
colony about eighty miles inland from Hakodaté.
Unfortunately the colonists were brought from the
south of Japan where the climate is very different,
and were now anxious to return, as they could find
no market for their produce so far from any
civilized place, and the allowance of rice the go-
vernment had allowed them for three years would
soon terminate. Yesso produces the usual fruits
and plants of a temperate climate; the hop grows
most luxuriantly in the hedges: I also noticed
grapes growing wild, but they were hardly fit to
eat. The produce from the country is brought in
on pack horses, which follow each other in single
file in a long string, and keep to one little track
in the road, which is wide enough for three car-
riages abreast. Yesso will probably prove to be
a very valuable island when it is more thoroughly
examined, because, from what is now known of it,
it is rich in coal, sulphur and minerals; the forests
in the interior must also become very valuable in a
few years.
A little beyond the farm there is a
village with several large tea houses for the use of
travellers and visitors who may be staying in the
neighbourhood to enjoy the scenery and the trout
1
190
[CHAP. VI.
The Eastern Seas.
fishing. The houses in the town and country are
built in the Japanese style, but are very low on
account of the violent winds: the wooden roofs are
loaded with large stones to prevent the wind
tearing the shingles off.
On the 27th September the squadron, consisting
of the "Iron Duke," "Frolic," "Thistle" and
"Dwarf," left Hakodaté for the harbour of Nambu,
which is situated on the east coast of the island of
Niphon. While passing through the straits of
Tsugar we found the current running very strongly
to the eastward, and causing a regular tide race,
and a nasty chopping sea which must be very
dangerous in stormy weather. The current always.
runs in the same direction in these straits on
account of the water being pent up in the sea of
Japan, and forcing its way out to the ocean by
this channel.
On the 29th we arrived at Nambu, which is a
large and safe harbour with a narrow entrance and
hills all round it. It is very pretty to look at on
entering the harbour, to see the hills and moun-
tains rising one above the other in succession,.
with beautiful valleys between; the country well
cultivated at the base of the hills and in the
valleys, and with many neat little villages dotted
about; the rest of the hills being clad with pine-
CHAP. VI.]
191
Nambu.
trees or scrub to the top, and looking beautifully
green and fresh. There was only a small trade by
junks. The people seemed poor, but very comfort-
able and happy, especially the children, who always
seem happy in Japan, as they are not tortured by
many garments, and can roll about and play on the
mat floors without any fear of breaking furniture
or doing mischief. We found plenty of small
chestnuts on the hills: the chief articles of cultiva-
tion were rice, sweet potatoes, and ground-nuts, also
flax, and bird-seed. There were great quantities
of pheasants here, and several good bags were
made. Although the people sold us deer's horns
very cheap, yet we saw no deer near Nambu, so I
suppose they are brought in from the interior of
the island.
On the 2nd of October, the squadron left for
Yokohama. The day after leaving, the barometer
began to fall very suddenly from 29.93 at 4 A.m. to
29.47 at 3 P.M., the weather looking dirty and un-
settled. The wind shifted from N.E. by E. to East,
and freshened up to a gale; after which it still
continued to change to S.E., South, S.W., and
West, when it blew very hard for a few hours. It
then changed to N.W., and the barometer began to
rise, after which it settled down to a steady and
moderate gale from the northward. On account of
192
[CHAP. VI.
The Eastern Seas.
the constant and rapid changes of wind, the sea
became very confused, running into pinnacles and
causing much water to fall on board of us. The
"Dwarf" stuck by the flagship and we got into
other two gun-vessels
All the vessels proved
Yokohama together: the
arrived a few hours after.
themselves to be excellent sea-boats, even in the
very irregular sea we had experienced.
The cruise to the Russian possessions during the
summer restored our ship's company to a fine state
of health, after having been much debilitated by
the previous two summers in China.
CHAPTER VII.
ASCENT OF FUSI-YAMA MOUNTAIN IN JAPAN.
On the 6th of October, 1873, the captain of the
flagship, admiral's secretary and myself, having
obtained the necessary leave of absence from the
Commander-in-Chief, started from Yokohama for a
cruise inland, to see the country and refresh our-
selves after our late sea voyage.
Through the kindness of one of the officers of the
Royal Marines, who was stationed in the camp, we
had managed to engage the services of a Japanese
called "Gong," who was to act as interpreter, pay
our bills, procure us good quarters and provisions,
and to see that we were not cheated by anyone
besides himself. He turned out to be a very useful
and civil man, always ready to make the best of
everything, and kept our expenses down to a very
reasonable amount. We had another Japanese
called "Shouski," who acted as cook, packed up
our luggage and bedding, secured it on the pack-
horse, and then walked off in charge of everything
to our next halting place. We took a packhorse,
0
194
[CHAP. VII.
The Eastern Seas.
instead of coolies, as it can carry sufficient for three
people, and is consequently less expensive than
coolies would be. The cook proved to be a capital
man, both professionally and also in managing the
horse and luggage, so that we never suffered any
inconvenience by his being late. He certainly
earned his pay well.
We had decided to go first to the village of Mi-a-
nosta, which is situated in the mountains a little
more than forty miles from Yokohama. There was
a carriage road for thirty-three miles of the journey:
we therefore hired a wagonette to take us as far as
the town of Odawarra, where the road ends, and
from that place we walked up the mountain path to
Mi-a-nosta, which was about eight miles farther on,
and put up at a large and well kept tea house in the
village. The Mikado occasionally made use of this
tea house in the summer, in order to enjoy the
cooler climate of the mountains, and to take advan-
tage of the hot sulphur baths belonging to the house,
which are kept constantly supplied with water run-
ning through them from mineral springs. As his
rooms were vacant when we arrived, they were
given to us to use, and we found them very comfort-
able and enjoyable; the verandah overlooked a
pretty Japanese garden, which had ponds stocked
with gold fish, and possessed a lovely view down
CHAP. VII.] Tea House at Mi-a-nosta.
195
the valley. There are several other tea houses in
the neighbourhood, which are much frequented by
Japanese and foreigners for the use of the springs;
the former consider the water to be a cure for nearly
all diseases that man is subject to, especially
diseases in the skin and feet that are very prevalent.
The gardens of the houses are very quaint with their
stunted trees, which are grown into various shapes,
of animals, birds, and dragons; also their fish-ponds
with curious little miniature bridges over them, and
carved figures of houses, castles, men and animals,
scattered about the little rockeries. It was a great
amusement to feed the gold fish in the morning in
this delicious climate, before the sun got high.
Those that do not care for a hot bath can take a cold
one in the garden, under a small waterfall, made by
the water from a stream being conducted along a
large pipe about ten feet from the ground, and
emptying itself into one of the ponds. As I did
not like the publicity of the garden for my bath,
I managed to get a tub of cold water in the bath-
room after some little trouble and explanation, as
the Japanese were not able to understand how any-
one can use cold water when they can get hot.
The floors of the tea houses are entirely covered
with mats about an inch thick, and it is customary
to take off your boots before entering the rooms, for
0 2
196
[CHAP. VII.
The Eastern Seas,
the
is
fear of damaging the mats. The beds consist of
mattresses spread on the floor, and covered with
cotton quilts, instead of blankets, and are clean and
comfortable. Mi-a-nosta is about 1,160 feet above
sea, and the road leading up to it from Odawarra
very pretty, as it winds between the hills and is
shaded by trees; the country is well cultivated with
rice wherever the nature of the ground admits of
it. There are many temples scattered about, which
usually have an avenue of old fir trees leading up to
them, and are always situated in very pretty places,
which shows the good taste of the Japanese in taking
advantage of the beautiful scenery to the fullest
extent.
After we had been here a few days and had
visited many pretty places in the neighbourhood
and the different baths and waterfalls, we arranged
to leave the heaviest portion of our luggage in
charge of the keeper of the tea house, and to start
on a journey to the mountain of Fusi-yama, which
is the sacred mountain of Japan and one of the
highest. Fusi-yama is held in such great respect
by the Japanese, that a picture of it is represented
on nearly all their crockery, cabinets, and other
lacquered ware.
At 10 A.M. on the 9th, we left the village of
Mi-a-nosta on foot accompanied by our faithful
CHAP. VII.]
197
Go-tem-bah.
attendant Mr. Gong, the cook having started a
little earlier with the baggage on the packhorse.
We had to cross a range of mountains about
2,000 feet higher than Mi-a-nosta, and then to
descend into a beautiful plain or valley which was
rich and well cultivated and about 1,700 feet below
the top of the range we had just crossed. We put
up for the night at a very nice tea house at a
village called Go-tem-bah which was about four-
teen miles from Mi-a-nosta, making a very
pleasant walk. Here we got an upstairs room,
which we found a great luxury, in consequence of
its being quiet and well clear of Japanese travellers,
and the cooking arrangements, which are all carried
on in the large public room downstairs. We found
the Japanese very primitive and simple in their
habits. At this tea house, men, women, and
children washed in a large tub of hot water in the
evening in the public guest room without any idea
that there was any indecency in the performance;
after the tubbing operation, the old women and
little girls shampooed the arms and legs of their
guests. They seemed very much surprised that we
objected to perform our ablutions in public with
them; but when they at last understood that we
wished to tub in private, after much laughing and
joking among themselves, they gave us another
198
[CHAP. VII
The Eastern Seas.
:
room for that purpose. The walls of the bath
houses that we had passed in the mountains were
made of an open lattice work, which did not
prevent any one that was passing from seeing men,
women and children splashing and paddling about
together in nature's full dress; not even the doors
were fastened.
At the tea house, the wife of the landlord carried
the keys and superintended the rooms and meals of
the guests, and made out the bills, while the old
mother took charge of the shampooing department;:
the landlord apparently taking matters very easily.
All the married women blacked their teeth, which
made them appear hideous. They have a very
high character for virtue after marriage, and the
law is very severe against any faithless spouse.
Everyone appeared cheerful, industrious and full of
fun, always laughing and joking with each other.
The following day we walked to the village of
Shi-bash-ere, which is situated near the foot of the
mountain of Fusi-yama. It was a very pleasant
walk of about seven miles and a half through a
fertile country with well cultivated fields; the
villages and farm-houses were generally surrounded
with clumps of bamboo, parsamum, and orange
trees. It took us nearly all the afternoon at
Shi-bash-ere to arrange for guides and coolies to
CHAP. VII.]
199
Engaging Guides.
carry our baggage and wood for making a fire up
the mountain the next morning; as all the rest
houses on the way were closed in consequence of
the lateness of the season, we had to arrange about
obtaining permission to use one, and to get the

JAPANESE MOUNTAIN COOLIE.
key. Although we only took a blanket apiece and
sufficient food and wood for us and the coolies, we
had to engage nine of them, as each man carries a
very little in consequence of the steepness of the
mountain. We managed to engage the rest house
called No. 7, which is about 10,000 feet above the
water, and we intended to sleep there during the
200
[CHAP. VII.
The Eastern Seas.
night. There are a great number of these houses
at regular intervals all the way up the mountain for
pilgrims to make use of. They consist of one room
made of lava or stone and have a door but no
window. In the summer they are kept open, but
are closed about September and the door is covered
outside with large stones to preserve it from the
storms during the winter. We found the tea
house in this village not nearly so good as the one
at Go-tem-bah. Our room was not nearly so com-
fortable and it was almost impossible to get to sleep
on account of the annoyance occasioned by smells
and fleas. The landlord was also very extortionate
in his charges notwithstanding the remonstrances
of the faithful "Gong."
We were glad to leave at 8 A.M. the next morn-
ing and commence the ascent, although the weather
had unfortunately changed and become very cold,
with showers of sleet and rain, which rather
bothered our barometric observations, and made
them more difficult to calculate and less reliable.
Including the guide, interpreter, cook, and coolies,
our little army mustered fifteen altogether. The
Japanese had sagaciously put on their straw rain
coats, which made them look as if they were
covered with a thatch like a house. The landlord
told us we were too late to manage the ascent, on
CHAP. VII.]
201
Ascent of Fusi-yama.
account of the snow on the mountain, but as it was
a case of now or never, and we had decided to do it
if possible, away we went.
The mountain forms a perfect cone, and for the
first 6,500 feet is clothed with a dense forest of
trees, which change their species and get smaller in
size as you ascend. While following the paths
through the forest we were tolerably sheltered from
the gale, and enjoyed the climbing, and laughed at
an occasional slip or fall and the comical appearance
of our followers, and the long face that Mr. Gong
put on at the journey before us. We took our
lunch at a house called the "Wood-Cutter's
Lodge," which is situated in the forest, and during
the summer is kept like a tea house to supply food
and fire to pilgrims; but when we passed no one
was living there, and it was closed.
The trees ceased quite suddenly, and gave place
to a belt of heather and moss, which in turn was
succeeded by ashes and scoria for nearly 6,000 feet
of the last part of the mountain. Directly we got
clear of the trees, we found that the wind was
blowing a gale, the violent gusts coming at one
time round one side of the mountain and at another
round the opposite side, making it very difficult to
keep our footing in the loose cinders, even with the
help of a good bamboo staff.
We passed many rest
202
[CHAP. VII.
The Eastern Seas.
houses or huts on the way, which were all built
exactly alike, and it appeared as if we should never
get to the one we wanted. At last, about dusk, we
arrived at No. 7, all of us being pretty well done
up with fatigue, wet, and cold. After clearing the
large stones away from the door, we managed to
get it open and crawl inside, and obtain shelter
from the snow that was now coming down fast.
This hut was about 10,200 feet above the sea. It
was some time before we could get our fire to light
in consequence of the rascally tea house keeper
having supplied us with green wood instead of dry;
unfortunately we had trusted all the details to him
and Mr. Gong without sufficiently examining the
articles ourselves. Our coolies made another fire
for themselves at the other end of the hut, and the
place became in a short time so full of smoke that
it caused the water to run from our eyes, and made
us sneeze violently. It became so disagreeable at
last that we were compelled to open our door to let
the smoke out, to prevent being smothered, although
we kept our faces as low on the ground as possible
to get the purest air. As soon as the door was
opened the wind and sleet blew in, and, to add to our
discomfort, the heat of the fires caused the snow on
the roof to melt and leak through, falling drop after
drop on our faces when we tried to get a snooze.
CHAP. VII.]
203
The Summit of Fusi-yama.
As for our poor coolies, who had come up very
lightly clad, they were squatting as close round
their fire as possible, shivering, smoking, talking,
and eating rice during the night as greedily as if
they had not had a meal for a week.
The next morning we were not sorry to see the
day break, and to get some breakfast, and stretch
our limbs to get the blood into circulation again.
About 7 A.M. the snow ceased, and the clouds
broke, giving us most lovely glimpses of the moun-
tains, land, and sea beneath us. A glorious sight
and not easily forgotten! The furious gale whirled
the clouds in eddies beneath us, chased them round
the mountain peaks, rent them in pieces, and hurled
them in all directions. The sun tried to break
through for a few minutes, but soon gave up the
attempt in despair, and the snow-storm came on
again as bad as ever.
As soon as we were ready we started for the top
of the mountain, which took us about two hours, in
consequence of the snow making it very difficult to
climb up, and causing us to slip back incessantly.
All our coolies came with us, as it would be con-
sidered a meritorious action for them to make their
pilgrimage in such trying weather. As near as we
could judge, we considered the top of the cone to
be about 12,600 feet above the sea by our moun-
204
[CHAP. VII.
The Eastern Seas.
tain barometer. This height agrees pretty well
with that given in the Admiralty charts, although
I have read some accounts that call the mountain
14,000 feet high. After examining the crater at
the top of the cone, and having paid our respects to
the little joss-house dedicated to Buddha, we com-
menced to descend as soon as possible on account
of the snow-storm, which now came on very thick;
the wind was so strong that we found it difficult to
keep our footing, and prevented us from examining
the crater as much as we should otherwise have
done. We therefore hastened down to the rest
house, where we arrived in a very short time by
sliding through the snow. We collected our things
here as quickly as possible, and then took a dif-
ferent route down the mountain, where the ashes
were quite small and loose, making the descent
very rapidly in consequence, although it would be
very difficult to ascend by that way. We soon got
our blood into circulation, and recovered our spirits
by the exhilarating effect of the rapid motion of
going down-slipping, sliding, and jumping, with
an occasional tumble and roll down the soft snow.
By the time we got to the forest the storm abated,
and by the time we got to the village of Shi-
bash-ere the weather cleared up altogether. Find-
ing we had time to push on to our former good
CHAP. VII.]
205
The Descent.
quarters at Go-tem-bah, instead of passing another
uncomfortable night at Shi-bash-ere, we settled up
with the landlord, and, much to his disgust, started
on our journey, arriving at Go-tem-bah by night,
where we had a good tub and supper, and chatted
and laughed over our troubles of the last thirty-six
hours. When we lay down we were so tired that
we slept for twelve hours without waking. On
our return journey we checked the barometric
observations we had previously made of the dif-
ferent altitudes, and as our descent was so quickly
accomplished I do not think the calculations can be
far out.
The earliest account of Fusi-yama that I have
met with is that of one of the Jesuits, who states
that it was an active volcano in A.D. 1600. That
in 1707 an eruption took place, which did great
damage to the country, and lasted during fifteen
days. An earthquake also took place in the island
of Niphon at the same time. The Japanese have a
tradition that the mountain was thrown up in a
single night, and in one of their picture books
about the mountain there is a humorous representa-
tion of the astonishment of the natives who first
discovered the mountain when they woke up in the
morning. They have also another picture vividly
representing the discomfort occasioned to the house
206
[CHAP. VII.
The Eastern Seas.
and family of the Japanese gentleman who was
living at the place where the volcano burst forth;
the manner in which they are all being scattered
was most amusing and well drawn. Women are
allowed to make a pilgrimage to and ascend Fusi-
yama once in sixty years; the last occasion was
1860.
The slopes of Fusi-yama, and the neighbouring
hills and plains, are covered with a rich black soil,
which is very similar to that near Mount Vesuvius,
and from the luxuriant manner in which the wild
grapes grew all about, I believe that the vine might
be brought to as high a state of cultivation as in
Europe, the climate being very much like that of
Italy. The grapes that are brought into Yokohama
for sale are fine, but require more cultivation before
they can become valuable for making wine; how-
ever, it shows what could be done if skilled labour
were employed from the vineyards of Europe, and
the best varieties of vine imported. There were
many miles of beautiful rich plain in the neighbour-
hood of Fusi-yama mountain, quite uncultivated
and covered with long grass, a few farms being
scattered about here and there.
The morning after our return from the moun-
tain was perfectly lovely, with a bright sun and
crisp autumnal feeling in the air, and everything
CHAP. VII.]
207
Haconé.
appeared fresh and nice after the storm. We had
a good breakfast, and then walked across the valley
to the Pass of Otone, which we quietly ascended,
and thought nothing of 1700 feet after what we had
done two days before. When we got to the top of
the Pass, we rested and enjoyed the scene of the
large valley beneath us, with its small river flowing
through it and villages dotted about, which were
surrounded by clumps of bamboo and orange trees;
right in front of us the lofty cone of Fusi-yama
reared his head up above the clouds, covered with
his winter's coat of snow, which shone dazzlingly
white in the bright sunshine. In the evening we
arrived at Mi-a-nosta again, and took up our former
Several other Europeans had arrived at the
tea house during our absence, among whom was a
gentleman belonging to the English consulate, who
became a very pleasant companion during some of
our rambles while here.
rooms.
We made an excursion on one day to a village
called Haconé, which was about seven miles off,
across the mountains, and situated on a lake of the
same name. Haconé is famous for the beauty of
its scenery, and a long avenue of fine cedar fir trees
along the borders of the lake. No description can
do justice to the beauty of the scene across the lake,
of which the Fusi-yama mountain forms the prin-
208
[CHAP. VII.
The Eastern Seas.
cipal object. On our way to Haconé we stopped at
a tea house, which was situated on the top of the
range of mountains, to examine the hot springs
which bubble up close to it. These springs ap-
peared very strongly impregnated with sulphur and
carbonic acid, much stronger than those at Mi-a-
nosta. There were several baths attached to the
tea house, and also to some other houses which were
crowded with Japanese taking advantage of the
water, the springs being considered very beneficial
for the cure of elephantiasis, and all diseases in the
legs and feet. The climate at this place was much
cooler than at Mi-a-nosta, and the owner of the tea
house was sanguine in hoping that by making his
establishment comfortable for foreigners, many of
them would resort to it in the summer. The ancient
barrier between the East and West of Niphon
crosses the road near Haconé. It consists of a
rampart and barrier gate with a guard house, but it
has now fallen into disuse. We returned to Mi-a-
nosta by a different route; for a portion of the way
along the broad high road which runs from Yeddo
to Miako, and is paved with rough stones like the
old Roman roads; very durable but excessively
jolting and fatiguing.
On the 16th we left Mi-a-nosta, with its beautiful
valleys and waterfalls, and walked to the town of
CHAP. VII.] The Castle of Odawarra.
209
Odawarra, where we had lunch, and examined the
old castle. This castle is now in ruins, but must
have been a very fine one formerly, as it covers a
very large extent of ground, and possesses three
lines of fortifications and moats, the inner one
forming the keep for the residence of the Daimio
and his family. The houses are gone, but the
massive ramparts still remain nearly perfect. A
small guard live inside the walls in a few Japanese
houses. It must have been very strong in the days
of bows and arrows, but it would require an army to
defend it, and there are so many hills in the vicinity
that overlook the walls that it would be of no use
against modern artillery. The woods outside the
walls, in the grounds belonging to the castle, are
very beautiful and come close up to the moat; they
would afford good cover for any attacking force,
and show that the castle could not have been
besieged for many years. The manner in which the
trees have been allowed to grow both inside and
outside of the castles in Japan, shows that theirs is
no vain boast of having suffered from no wars for
200 years previous to their recent intercourse with
foreigners; in fact, ever since they massacred the
Christians, and during the time they shut them-
selves up from the rest of the world. Outside the
castle gate is a well laid out town, for the retainers
P
210
[CHAP. VII.
The Eastern Seas.
of the lord of the castle. The commercial town of
Odawarra is of great extent, and does a good trade
in fish, as it is situated on the large bay of the same
name, where fish is plentiful. Young shark from
three to five feet long seemed the most favourite
sort, and we constantly met horses and mules
carrying them into the country, one strapped on
each side of the animal's back.
From Odawarra we walked on to the village of
Mazawa, about six miles farther, where we hired
gin-rick-shas (small two-wheeled carriages drawn
by one man, or if necessary two men, tandem
fashion), as we wished to push on quickly, and the
country was level. The gin-rick-shas are very
convenient and have not long been introduced into
Japan; the Japanese usual mode of conveyance
being in a cango or kind of couch carried under a
pole by two men, which is very convenient for
short and supple-legged Japanese men and women,
but very uncomfortable for foreigners. The cango
has still to be used on the bridle paths and over the
mountains, where the gin-rick-sha cannot travel.
In the present case we had two men to each of our
gin-rick-shas, who rattled us along famously over
the rough road, and jolted us till we felt that our
bones would soon wear holes in our skins; we
accomplished fifteen miles in three hours, and put
CHAP. VII.]
211
The Great Idol.
up at the town of Fugi-sawa for the night. Our
road ran through a level country, with a few low
hills occasionally.
From Fugi-sawa we walked the next morning
across the rice-fields to see the great bronze idol of
Dieboots, which is considered one of the most
wonderful productions of Japan; although there is
a larger one in bronze at Narah, near the city of
Quioto, but the latter is not so well finished. In
ancient times there was a large temple near
Dieboots, but it has entirely disappeared, except a
few stones that mark the places where the columns
rested. The bronze idol is still quite perfect, and is
taken care of by a few priests who live close to it
and sell pictures and photographs of it, and also
English beer to thirsty foreigners. The bronze
was cast in pieces, put together afterwards, and
beautifully joined. It measured forty-two feet in
height from the stone platform to the top of the
head; the circumference was ninety-eight feet.
An avenue of trees leads up to it, and it is
surrounded by low hills, which are covered with
foliage and cut up by ravines in all directions.
When the idol was made, the capital of Japan was
situated in this neighbourhood, and called Kama-
kura, but was destroyed by war in A.D. 1332. At
that time there were beautiful temples in the
P 2
212
[CHAP. VII
The Eastern Seas.
neighbourhood, many of which were also destroyed.
Kama-kura was raised to the rank of the capital
city by Yoritomo in 1185, when he became the
Tycoon, or Commander-in-Chief, and seized the real
power of the empire out of the hands of the
Mikado. It then numbered 200,000 inhabitants,
but when we passed through there was little-
remaining to show that a large city had ever
existed, and at present there are hardly 500
people where it stood.
Two or three miles from the idol we passed a
large temple, which was kept in a good state of
preservation and appeared to be held in great
esteem, judging by the number of pilgrims visiting
it. It was situated in a fertile plain near the site
of the old city, and had a large number of priests
belonging to it; the grounds were laid out with
fishponds having stone bridges over them, and
planted with shrubs and flowers. A fine avenue of
trees led up to the entrance, and stalls were erected
on each side of the road to accommodate the
pilgrims, all sorts of food and fish being sold at
them, and also pictures of Buddha and maps of the
country, books, and trinkets.
It was not far from this place that Mr.
Richardson, an English merchant, was cut down
and killed, while passing along the Tokaido or high
CHAP. VII.] Murder of Mr. Richardson.
213
road on horseback, with his wife and one or two
friends. He was set upon by the followers of the
Prince of Satsuma, for not getting off the road
while their lord passed on his way to Yeddo. The
lady and friends escaped to Yokohama by hard
riding. Mr. Richardson had made his fortune in
China, and had merely come on a visit to Japan
before his return home.
In consequence of the Japanese Government
being either unable or unwilling to punish the
murderers, the British squadron under the com-
mand of Sir L. Kuper bombarded the forts at
Kagosima, the capital of Prince Satsuma, in 1862,
as no satisfaction could be obtained by milder
measures, and foreigners had so constantly been
insulted and ill-used that it was necessary to put
an end to it with the strong hand.
By the old law of Japan, when a nobleman of
high rank passed along the road with his followers,
who sometimes numbered as many as 200 people,
everyone of lower rank had to get out of the way,
and in the event of their failing to do so, were
badly treated by the retainers. When Daimios of
high rank were required at Yeddo, the route they
had to take was notified to them beforehand by an
officer of the court, in order to prevent two of them
meeting on the same road and causing a disturb-
214
[CHAP. VII..
The Eastern Seas.
1.
ance, and probably a fight. The lower orders had
to kneel when a Daimio passed; all points of
etiquette were rigidly enforced in the feudal times.
Kama-kura must have been a good situation for
the capital, as it was close to the Gulf of Suruga,
and tolerably central in position with regard to the
rest of the island, and possessed a fine fertile
country around it. From Kama-kura we passed
over a very pretty country with low hills, which
had the appearance of having been broken up by a
series of earthquakes. The hills were covered with
trees and bushes, but the valleys were well culti-
vated with rice, sugar-cane, sweet potatoe, and flax.
The farm-houses were very neat-looking, situated
among orange and parsamum trees. We lunched
at the fishing village of Cana-wa, and arrived at
Yokohama in the evening, having walked about
nineteen miles since leaving the idol of Dieboots.
In consequence of the number of war-ships of
different nations that frequent Yokohama, and the
many temptations for the seamen while on leave,
there being no place where they can go to for a
quiet dinner and bed, several of the residents
started a kind of home for them to use when on
shore. This home was commenced when we were
at Yokohama on this occasion, and, I believe, has
proved a great success. It was started on temper-
CHAP. VII.] Sailors' Home at Yokohama.
215
ance principles; the seamen and marines of any
nation could go there and obtain their meals and
beds at a very reasonable rate. This was all the
more valuable to them at Yokohama, because the
anchorage is so exposed in bad weather that it is
sometimes impossible for boats to communicate
with the ships, and they were therefore often com-
pelled to sleep on shore against their will. Many
of the ladies interested themselves greatly in
raising the necessary funds, which were soon ob-
tained by the liberality of the foreign community
and the hearty co-operation of the squadron in the
good work. After it was once in working order it
supported itself.
The races came off on the 26th, and were well
attended by foreigners and Japanese, who crowded
out in carriages, gin-rick-shas, and on foot. It was
a gay and lively sight; a band played between the
races, and many ladies were present. The course
is laid out on the top of some low hills a mile or
two from the town.
On the 28th of October the "Iron Duke,'
"Cadmus," "Frolic," "Dwarf," and "Salamis,"
got under weigh from Yokohama, and proceeded to
Kobé in the Inland Sea, where we arrived on
November the 1st, after a boisterous passage. The
gales in Japan come on very suddenly and are very
216
[CHAP. VII.
The Eastern Seas.
local; a strong wind and heavy sea is often met
with off the long capes that stretch out from the
land, while in the different gulfs and bays near, the
weather is much finer. The wind often blows with
great violence down the Kii Channel, while at the
same time inside the Isumi Nada, or that part of
the Inland Sea it leads into, and which is only a
short distance from it, there may be very little
wind at all. Many of these sudden changes are
due to the high temperature of the Japan current
that runs along the coast.
On the 5th the Admiral left Kobé with the
squadron to go to Nagasaki, while the "Dwarf"
was ordered to remain to carry out the duty of
senior officer's ship in the Inland Sea. We were
all sorry to part with those whom we had travelled
with so far and for so long a time.
CHAPTER VIII.
KOBE-SHANGHAI THE HOMES FOR SEAMEN REBELLION AT
SAGA IN JAPAN-SEARCH FOR THE CREW OF A SCHOONER THAT
HAD FOUNDERED-KITE FLYING FESTIVAL.
THE autumn at Kobé is very pleasant, the tem -
perature ranging from 47° to 60° by Farenheit's
thermometer; and fresh westerly winds prevail
with a bright sky. The trees assume their rich
red and copper-coloured autumnal tints, which are
much brighter than those in England, and make
the walks about the hills most enjoyable. On one
occasion I took a walk with some friends through
the town of Hiogo, to visit the lighthouse at the
entrance to the bay, and also the public cemetery
for criminals, where the bodies of those who were
too poor to pay for their funeral, and who had no
friends to see that they were decently buried, were
thrown together with the bodies of the criminals.
The cemetery was placed at the corner of one of
the very ancient burial grounds near some old
temples, and consisted of a large pit about fifty
feet long and ten broad. It was covered by a
wooden roof, but was open at the sides. The
218
[CHAP. VIII.
The Eastern Seas.
bodies of the dead were simply thrown in, and left
there to be devoured by dogs and birds, as the pit
was not deep and there was nothing to keep them
off. It was a most disgusting sight; but I am glad
to say that the Japanese authorities have at last
had it filled in with earth, and decided to bury in
a more civilised manner in future.
I found the Japanese Governor of Kobé, with
whom I became acquainted, a very enlightened
man, and anxious for the improvement of the town
and harbour. He had been trying hard to induce
his government to consent to the expenditure of
sufficient money to render Kobé a convenient and
safe harbour by running out a pier at each end of
the bay, and thus enclosing a port large enough to
hold a considerable fleet of merchant ships in safety.
I was shown the plan that had been made of the in-
tended harbour. The depth of water would com-
mence at five fathoms, which would gradually
lessen towards the shore, where there would be
three fathoms close in to the beach. This scheme
would be of great advantage to the town, and in-
crease the trade greatly, Kobé being so well situ-
ated with regard to the Inland Sea, and the large
towns and rich country lying between it and
Quioto, with which it will soon be connected by
rail.
CHAP. VIII.]
219
Kobe.
The cambers, or small harbours for boats, are
only sufficient for the protection of the native
junks; the foreign vessels are compelled to anchor
in the bay, which is exposed in typhoons, which
sometimes cause great loss of life and property.
The typhoons here generally commence with the
wind from the N.-E., which drives the water out
of this part of the Inland Sea (called the Isumi
Nada) through the Straits of Akashi, into the
Harima Nada, which is the next portion; it also
drives the water out through the Kii Channel to
the southward. Afterwards, when the wind grad-
ually changes round to the S.-E. and then S.-W.,
the water returns with great violence through the
straits, causing it to rise over the usual high water
level, and add the dangers of a flood to those of the
violent tempest. During a typhoon a few years
ago, the water rose so high that it broke over the
bund and flooded the town, the wind and waves at
the same time breaking the junks on the shore, and
also those foreign vessels that were not very
securely anchored.
On the 4th of December, we left the anchorage
at Kobé for a cruise in the Inland Sea, and to
examine a shoal that had been reported. The first
night we anchored in the same harbour at Sozu-
sima, where we had previously anchored with the
220
[CHAP. VIII.
The Eastern Seas.
squadron. From thence we went to the Island of
Awa-sima, and anchored in its curiously formed
harbour; we carefully examined the place where
the shoal had been reported, but could find no
traces of it; the soundings all over agreed most
accurately with those given by the last survey
which was made by the captain and officers of
H.M.S. "Sylvia."
A stranger would not readily make out the
entrance to the harbour until quite close to it, on
account of the great similarity between the hills on
the island, and those on the land behind; there are
also many more islands outside that make it still
more puzzling. The island appeared like two hills
joined together by a strip of sand. There was a
village on the island, and several on the other side
of the harbour, where the country was very moun-
tainous. A few ducks and pigeons were shot by
some of the officers on the island.
From this harbour we steamed across the Bingo
Nada, to the anchorage off the town of Miwara
which is situated on the Aogi-seto, or strait of Aogi.
There is a large castle at this town, which must
have formerly been a very important place, as it
commands the channel which leads from the Bingo
Nada to the Suwo Nada, or portion of the Inland
Sea lying farther to the west. The castle was sur-
CHAP. VIII.]
221
The Inland Sea.
rounded by double moats and two lines of ramparts,
which were about twenty feet high and faced with
stone; watch towers were built on the angles of
the walls, and were in a good state of preservation.
Indeed, it looked as if its owner had only lately left
it, the condition was so good. The town was not
large, but possessed many curiosity shops, some of
which contained great quantities of armour, bows,
arrows, and spears, that had formerly belonged to
the castle, and been sold when the owner had
retired into private life. Some of the suits were
beautifully made of steel, inlaid with gold; some
of them made of chain, and some of small pieces of
bamboo, which they said would turn a sword cut.
The helmets were fitted with curious iron masks
to fit the face exactly, and which gave a most
diabolical expression to the countenance, as they
were made with a long aquiline nose and strongly
marked features, with a sneering sinister look.
There was enough common armour, spears, bows,
and arrows to arm a regiment, and to be purchased
at a very cheap rate.
The high road and telegraph line between Yeddo
and Simonoseki, run through this town, but there
did not appear to be much trade done here. A
large alluvial plain extends for a long distance
between the hills, and was well cultivated with
222
[CHAP. VIIL
The Eastern Seas.
rice, sugar cane, and sweet potatoes; a small river
runs through the plain. The country all round is
very mountainous; this part of the Inland Sea,
where the narrow straits wind between the moun-
tains and hills, and islands separate one strait from
another, is considered one of the most beautiful of
Japan. In the spring and autumn it certainly

JAPANESE JUNK.
----་
deserves that character; but in the winter the hills
look very bare and barren, although they are actually
well cultivated. The Japanese junks with their
white sails and peculiar build like the ancient
Roman vessels, are a very striking feature in the
scene. The crews loll about and evidently take life
very easily; when the wind or tide is foul, they
anchor till it becomes fair, and care little how long
they are on the voyage provided they arrive safe at
CHAP. VIII.]
223
The Inland Sea.
last. With their wooden anchor and hemp cables
they are able to anchor in deep water without much
inconvenience; and they are excellent sea boats,
being able to ride out any ordinary gale like a duck
on the water, but in typhoons great quantities of
them are lost. The small fishing boats are built
very sharp at the bow, and broad at the stern, they
have one mast with a square sail that is placed
abaft the centre of the boat which sails capitally,
and beats well; the bow is high out of water,
as the crew sit down in the hinder part of the
boat.
From this place we weighed under sail, the tide
being fair, and returned to Kobé in time for a very
good theatrical entertainment given by the residents,
and to which we were kindly asked. Everyone at
Christmas strove to amuse themselves and their
neighbours, as very little business was done in
consequence of the Japanese having altered the date
of their New Year to that of western nations. The
holidays were kept for ten days in all their govern-
ment offices, the merchants and tradesmen keeping
as many as their means would allow. It is the
occasion for exchanging civilities, making visits and
giving presents. At the gates to the Buddhist
temples the priests hang a large rope made of the
last year's rice straw, and also place pieces of thick
224
1
[CHAP. VIII.
The Eastern Seas.
bamboo in the ground to remind Buddha to give
them a good harvest of rice and plenty of bamboos;
the bamboo being valuable, not only on account of
the wood, but also as an article of food; the young
shoot is dug up soon after it appears above the
ground, it is then cut in slices and boiled, making
a delicious vegetable, especially if it is served up
with butter.
On the 7th of January, 1874, we left Kobé to go
to Nagasaki; we experienced strong foul winds on
the way which caused us to anchor occasionally
behind the islands. Near the Straits of Simonoseki,
the hills were covered with snow down to the base,
and the N.-W. winds were piercingly cold. We
passed through Spex's Strait, inside of Hirado
Island, with a strong fair tide which shot us through
the narrow passage very quickly.
and castle at the narrowest part,
were anchored in the harbour.
There is a town
and a few junks
The Portuguese
had their trading settlement at this place about A.D.
1600, and it was consequently a great stronghold
for Christianity at that time.
We only remained at Nagasaki for a short time,
being ordered on to Shanghai, where we were glad
to meet our friends on board the "Cadmus."
There was a very respectable force of volunteers
at Shanghai at this time, consisting of infantry,
CHAP. VIII.] The Volunteers at Shanghai.
225
artillery, and a small force of cavalry called
"Rangers," who were mounted on ponies, which
were active and well suited for scrambling into the
ditches which intersect the country. The fire
brigade forms a fine strong company and were
dressed in their professional dress, consisting of a
red shirt and felt hat with a cock's feather.
In order to have a day's exercise and amusement,
it was arranged between the officer commanding the
volunteers and the captain of the "Cadmus," that a
field-day and sham fight should take place between
the volunteers and our blue jackets and marines who
were to form a naval brigade. The plan of opera-
tions was, that the naval brigade should attack the
settlement from the land side, having been landed
and taken up their position beforehand; while the
volunteers were to defend it. About 200 men were
landed from the "Cadmus " and "Dwarf," with one
field-piece and an ambulance for the wounded. As
they landed about 10 A.M they carried their dinners
with them in their havresacks. The officer in com-
mand, and two midshipmen who acted as aides-de-
camp were mounted, and the army marched out
bravely with band playing and colours flying to take
up their position. In the afternoon the volunteers,
who could only manage to scrape together about
100 infantry, one field-piece, and twenty Rangers,
Q
226
[CHAP. VIII.
The Eastern Seas.
(about one third of their whole force,) marched out
to meet the invaders. The attacking party ad-
vanced under the cover of some large Chinese graves,
which were made of mounds of earth about ten feet
high; they sent scouts to climb the trees, and to
telegraph with flags the movements of the enemy.
The defending forces also advanced slowly, feeling
their way with the Rangers, who were occasionally
rather bothered by the quantity of deep ditches. As
soon as the forces came within range they com-
menced firing blank cartridge, and the cavalry
made some gallant charges, until at last they re-
ceived a volley at a short distance, which so effec-
tually frightened the ponies that they would not
face it again; they were further discomfited by
receiving a charge from a small party of blue jackets,
who ran after them in a comical manner, one poor
pony being slightly pricked behind. Many
Chinese as well as foreigners came out to see the
fun; some of the former were in Gin-rick-shas, one
of which was taken advantage of to afford cover for
some of the sailors to fire from. The coolie who had
drawn the carriage had run away in a fright, leaving
a fat old Chinaman sitting in it. Telling John
Chinaman to sit still, one blue jacket used his rifle on
each side of the vehicle, and another from under-
neath, frightening the old fellow nearly out of his
CHAP. VIII.] Temperance Hall for Seamen. 227
wits. According to what had been previously ar-
ranged the volunteers held their ground bravely for
a time, but being outflanked had to give way, and
were driven back to a place where some public-
spirited gentleman had provided a barrel of beer;
both armies ceased from their battle, fraternised,
quenched their thirst with the good liquor, and
marched into the settlement together after a very
good day's fun.
Shanghai possesses a temperance hall for seamen
and marines belonging to the vessels in port of
whatever nation they may belong to. It was
commenced by the clergy and residents who
subscribed liberally towards it, and is now nearly
self-supporting; the regular profits being greatly
assisted by lectures and readings which are given
occasionally in the evening by some of the
gentlemen of the place, and are generally well
attended as they are very amusing and the entrance
fee is small. The establishment contains a reading-
room and library for the seamen, who are able to
get good beds there and excellent meals at a very
reasonable rate; this does away with the necessity
of their frequenting public-houses while on leave,
where they would be charged high for indifferent
food and poisoned with bad liquor. A particularly
unwholesome description of spirit is sold at the low
C 2
229
[CHAP. VIII
The Eastern Seas.
pot-houses and Chinese shops to sailors, which
makes them nearly mad even after taking only a
small quantity; it produces all the symptoms of
poisoning, causing illness for some days, far more
than is usually caused by a drunken debauch;
those that indulge are usually robbed of their
money as well. This spirit was sold under the
name of gin, but when analyzed was found to
possess little real gin in it, but to be a most
noxious mixture.
Many of the missionaries, both English and
American, and also the missionary ladies, devoted
a portion of their time for the benefit of the sea-
men, by holding prayer-meetings, which they were
invited to attend, at their houses in the evenings.
One evening I attended at a meeting at the house-
of a lady who was the widow of a gentleman who
had belonged to the United States consular service.
The service was conducted in the drawing-room,
which was conveniently fitted with folding doors to
admit of the dining-room also being added when
the number of people was very great, as in the
present instance. Nearly 100 seamen and marines
of the "Cadmus," "Dwarf," and the United States.
Corvette "Lackawanna were present. The ser-
vice consisted of singing, prayers and exhortations,
which were given by the missionaries, some of the
CHAP. VIII] Missionaries at Shanghai.
229.
ladies, and also by the seamen; all of whom spoke
with great earnestness, some even with eloquence;
the congregation was most attentive and several of
them appeared deeply moved.
We remained at Shanghai for a month, during
which time we had not a single case of drunken-
ness or of leave-breaking by any of the ship's
company; this I attributed partly to the men
having a good and respectable place to go to while
on leave to read and amuse themselves, and to the
good influence exerted by the missionaries and
those that took an interest in their welfare.
I have reason to believe that the efforts of the
Christian missionaries among the Chinese will be
greatly assisted by a little attention bestowed on
the crews of vessels visiting the treaty ports;
because the Chinese naturally value a religion
according to the effect it has on the conduct of the
people who profess to belong to it. When they see
Christians leading godly and sober lives and
regarding the sabbath, they hold respect to their
faith more than when they find them regardless of
all Christian duties and giving themselves up to
drunkenness and immorality. Looking at the case
even in its lowest and most worldly view, our
country and service gains enormously by the health
of the ships' companies being vastly improved by
230
[CHAP. VIII..
The Eastern Seas.
more regular and sober habits during their leave.
A great cause of the large quantity of invalids that
are sent home from the Chinese station being from
the effects of diseases which might have been
avoided by a sober life; the climate alone is suffi-
ciently trying even for the most prudent without
anything else being added to it. I have often
heard it remarked by captains and commanding
officers of vessels stationed at Shanghai, at Hankow,
and at Tientsin where the residents on shore have
interested themselves in providing places for the
seamen to frequent, and the clergy have exerted
themselves in their spiritual wants, that the change
in the behaviour of the ships' companies has been
quite evident. Although of course in many cases
some of them fall back into their old habits.
when they arrive at places where it requires
moral courage to withstand the many tempta-
tions of a seaport; yet on the whole, great
progress has been made in the right direction,
and the country is gradually acquiring a much
steadier race of naval seamen than it possessed
formerly; at the same time, the seamen retain all
the zeal and daring that is required in carrying out
their duty in all parts of the world and under any
circumstances.
-g'
Other ports besides those I have mentioned have
CHAP. VIII.] The Shooting near Shanghai.
231
also begun to turn their attention to the subject.
For instance, at Amoy one of the Church of Eng-
land missionaries kindly allowed the seamen to
make use of a room in his house to read and to
meet in, although his house was barely large
enough for himself and family. At last so many
came, that the residents generously decided to build
or rent a small place where they could go, and I
trust the scheme has been carried out. At Naga-
saki a very good building was rented, and the home
just got into good working order and was com-
mencing to pay its own expenses, when it was
blown down in a typhoon; at the same time great
destruction was done to the rest of the houses in
the town and the ships in the harbour.
Shanghai is noted for the variety and cheapness
of all sorts of meat and game in the winter. Good
beef, mutton, and pork; and plenty of deer, phea-
sant, duck, and snipe can be bought in the market,
and also capital fish. The beef was about three-
pence-halfpenny a pound, and the pork threepence;
the deer a dollar and a half or two dollars each,
and the pheasants sometimes six or eight for a
dollar. Those merchants that can spare the time
to go away up the river in their comfortable house-
boats for ten days or a fortnight, are able to shoot
enough deer and pheasants, not only to supply the
232
[CHAP. VIII.
The Eastern Seas.
tables of their houses at Shanghai for some time,
but also to send a large quantity to their friends at
the southern ports, where game is scarce.
On the 21st of February, 1874, a telegram
arrived from Nagasaki to say that a rebellion had
broken out near that place, and that the rebels
were marching on the town. In consequence of
there being no English ship of war at Nagasaki,
the "Dwarf" was ordered to go across to that place
at once to protect British interests. On our arrival
there on the 24th, we found that H.M. ship "Ring-
dove" had already come from Kobé on the same
errand. A Russian corvette, a gun-boat of the
United States, and a Japanese iron-clad (the old
"Stonewall”) were in the harbour. Arrangements
had been made at a meeting of the consuls and
the captains of the foreign war vessels to land
250 men from the ships to protect the foreign
settlement if it should become necessary to do so
for the safety of the people living on shore. The
Japanese Governor had about 1000 soldiers in
the town and vicinity to defend the paths over
the hills.
The rebellion had broken out at a place called
Saga, which is a large town about sixty miles from
Nagasaki. Some noblemen and samurai had taken
up arms and attacked the governor and the garrison
CHAP. VIII.]
233
Rebellion at Saga.
who had taken refuge in the castle, which unfortu-
nately had not been properly supplied with pro-
visions for a siege, this outbreak being quite
unexpected. Finding they could not take the
castle by storm, the rebels managed to set fire to
the towers and wood-work, after which the garrison
surrendered, as many of them were killed and the
rest had nothing to eat. Nearly the whole of these
soldiers, including the governor, were killed most
barbarously. The reason given for this rebellion
was, that the governor of Nagasaki had not allowed
a deputation that the people of Saga wished to send
to the Mikado to present a petition, to pass through
his district to embark for Yeddo.
The cause of their wanting to petition the
Mikado was stated to be that the allowance of rice
which had been given them by the government
when the feudal system was abolished, was not
sufficient for them to live on, and it was rumoured
that the government intended to cease paying this
allowance altogether in a few years. They were
also dissatisfied that the government had not made
war on the Corea, to avenge the insult lately offered
to the Japanese ambassadors, when they had been
sent to demand the arrears of tribute from that
country. The governor had not allowed this depu-
tation to pass, because, by Japanese law, any
231
[CHAP. VIII.
The Eastern Seas.
governor who allowed a petition to be sent from or
through his district, would be liable to be disgraced
for doing so.
All sorts of rumours were constantly brought
into Nagasaki about the progress that the rebels
were making; at one time they were reported to be
only seven miles from the city. To add to the
excitement, incendiaries had been arrested in Naga-
saki and executed. At the first outbreak, the
governor and Japanese officials got everything ready
to save themselves by flight, as it was believed that
he would be the first victim; but the arrival of
government troops soon reassured them, and they
took measures for defence instead. This rebellion
appeared to have nothing to do with any enmity to
foreigners; indeed the rebels had sent into Naga-
saki an English doctor, who was employed by the
Japanese government to attend to their hospital at
Saga, in order that he might receive no injury.
They also took care to send his baggage after him
the next day.
On this occasion the Japanese government found
the advantage of the telegraphic communication
that they had established in all parts of Japan.
Information of the rising was telegraphed to Yeddo
before the line was cut by the rebels; the govern-
ment thereupon sent troops to a town called
CHAP. VIII.]
235
Japanese Soldiers.
Fukuoka on the coast, where they were quickly
landed and marched to Saga; by their promptness.
they defeated the rebels, and took the city before
the rebellion had time to spread and become serious.
Some of the leaders were taken, and afterwards tried
and executed, but the authorities behaved leniently
to the rest. The Japanese soldiers that were sent,
were armed in the European style, and their
artillery was particularly well adapted for use in
this mountainous country. The guns were light,
and carried along the path by coolies, for which
purpose they were slung to strong bamboo poles;
the carriages were taken to pieces and carried in the
same manner. It took a great quantity of coolies
to carry a mountain battery. The regular infantry
were small wiry men and marched well; they were
armed with rifles, and wore a uniform resembling
the French in the cut, on account of their in-
structors having been principally French. The
marines were a finer body of men, and dressed like
the marine artillery in England; their instructor
had been an officer in the English service. The
militia wore the native dress.
As soon as matters became quiet, the "Ringdove"
returned to her station at Kobé, and the "Dwarf"
was ordered to remain at Nagasaki.
While here I took the opportunity to examine the
236
[CHAP. VIII.
The Eastern Seas.
•
coal mine at Tako-sima, which is an island outside
of the harbour, and about eight miles from the town.
The mines were worked by the Japanese govern-
ment, under the management of an English engi-
neer who kindly showed me everything. The shaft
was about 260 yards deep, and some of the galleries
were driven below the sea, requiring steam pumps
to be kept constantly working to prevent the salt
water from accumulating and flooding the mines,
as the strata is very leaky, and they have on one
or two occasions driven into some old workings
that had been done by the Japanese in former
times. On one occasion when this took place, the
old gallery they broke into was full of water and
the mine was flooded, and many Japanese miners
were drowned. The lower seam of coal was about
nine or ten feet thick. It was a pretty good coal,
but made a great deal of smoke and clinker. There
were nineteen Englishmen employed in the mines;
and several Japanese were studying engineering, in
order that they might take charge of it themselves
some day. There were many women employed,
who wore a light dress, while the men wore very
little indeed; all of them washed themselves
constantly in the water courses leading to the
pumps along the side of the gallery, and containing
a plentiful supply of salt water.
CHAP. VIII.] The Sailors' Home at Nagasaki. 237
On the 26th of March a meeting was held in the
foreign settlement to endeavour to raise the funds
to establish a sailors' home. The question whether
it was to contain a canteen for the sale of beer, or
be conducted on the total abstinence from intoxi-
cating liquor principle, caused a great difference of
opinion at the meeting, and threatened to shipwreck
the home altogether. After much discussion it was
agreed that no beer or other intoxicating drink
should be sold in it, there being so many places
outside where they could get any drink they
wished. As soon as the motion was carried the
consuls, merchants, and residents subscribed most
liberally towards it, and a committee was formed to
carry the work out. A building was soon hired,
and fitted up with a reading-room, bowling-alley,
and about eight bed-rooms; a bagatelle board was
supplied, and the residents kindly sent in their
newspapers for the use of the reading-room when
they had finished with them; many books were
also given. The charges were moderate, and a
steady good man having been obtained to superin-
tend it, with two or three Japanese servants, it soon
commenced to pay for its own expenses, as there
were generally several vessels of war, either Eng-
lish or American, in the harbour. The establish-
ment of this place proved a great boon to the
238
[CHAP. VIII.
The Eastern Seas.
seamen, who now have plenty of leave when in
harbour, and soon find the advantage of being able
to land for a quiet stroll among the hills, and then
to have a clean and comfortable place to get their
meals and read the papers before going on board
again in the evening. Unfortunately the typhoon
that occurred in the autumn damaged the house so
seriously that it had to be closed, but I believe only
for a time, until sufficient funds could be collected
to repair it.
The resident English clergyman devoted much of
his time, and also a room in his house in the even-
ing for the instruction of those seamen who wished
to attend, and, as far as one could judge, his efforts
were not without success. This work was under-
taken by him in addition to his duties at his church
and with the Japanese.
On the 11th of April a boat that had belonged to
a small English schooner came into the harbour
with five Japanese sailors in it. They stated that
the schooner had foundered at sea in one of the late
severe gales, and that the captain, who was an
Englishman, and three other Europeans and eight
natives had left the vessel at the same time in a
larger boat. These Japanese said that soon after
they left the schooner the weather had moderated,
and that they had been able to land on the Meac-
CHAP. VIII.]
239
The Goto Islands.
sima Islands, and from thence had made their way
to the Kosiki Islands, which are nearer to Japan,
and are inhabited. They had suffered much from
want of food, but were well fed and liberally
treated by their countrymen at Kosiki, where they
fortunately were picked up by an English pilot
boat belonging to Nagasaki, and taken by her to
that place.
As the master of the schooner and his boat with
the crew were still missing, the "Dwarf" put to
sea to search for them. We embarked an officer
belonging to the British consulate to act as inter-
preter, and also a Japanese official, that the
governor of Nagasaki requested we should take
with us to ensure that we received every assistance
from the towns, villages, and places we might call
at in our efforts to find the boat and people. As
the schooner foundered somewhere between the
Goto and Meac-sima Islands, we first called at the
harbour of Tama-no-ura, which is in the former
island, and enquired at all the fishing villages in
the neighbourhood, but without success. The vil-
lages appeared poor, and we had a difficulty in
finding any one who could read in them; there was
very little cultivation, the country being rocky and
mountainous. The harbour is quite secure, and has
several long bays in it capable of holding a large
240
[CHAP. VIII.
The Eastern Seas.
fleet. Pheasants were numerous on the island, and
fish plentiful in the harbour.
After leaving this harbour where we were de-
tained a day or so on account of bad weather, we
steamed to the Meac-sima group, which is also
called the Asses Ears from the peaked appearance
of the cliffs. There being no anchorage here, we
sent a boat to examine the northern island, where
the survivors from the schooner had first landed.
On the S.E. side of this island we found a small
bay with a beach of broken coral, where the boat
could land, as it was fortunately quite calm; close
under the cliff a small pool of fresh water and the
remains of a hut were discovered, but nobody was
seen at this place. The hut looked as if it had been
long deserted. From this we steamed to the S.W.
island of the group, which had a small bay on the
south side of it. Off here we found twenty-five
fathoms by sounding, although everywhere else the
water was very deep indeed. We had noticed
several Japanese fishing from the rocks with lines,
and also from boats close to them as we came
along; at the bay we found six large fishing boats
hauled up on the beach between the rocks, well
clear of the surf.
Our boat managed to land after some little
difficulty, but could find no traces nor get any
CHAP. VIII.] The Meac-sima Islands.
241
intelligence of the people we were searching for.
The fishermen belonged to the Goto islands, and
came here in the beginning of the year for the
spring fishing, and intended to leave again before
the summer when the strong southerly winds and
chances of typhoons would make it dangerous to
remain. They lived in temporary huts, which were
made of mats, that they had brought with them
and would take away again on their return home
after catching and curing their fish, which con-
sisted principally of bonito and small shark. There
was a small spring of water in the cliff, and near
to it were several Japanese graves with carved
figures of the sailors' goddess "Matsou" placed by
their comrades to take care of them on this desolate
spot. The islands are small and very rugged, and
have no cultivation; some of them are frequented
by sea birds; boats can seldom land on them, as
their position is quite exposed, and a heavy surf
rolls over the coral rocks with a very moderate
breeze. They are well delineated in the chart,
although the reef off the east end appeared to
extend farther than represented.
We then steamed to the bay in Kosiki island,
where the survivors had landed after leaving Meac-
sima, and from which they had been brought by
the pilot boat. One of the crew that had come
R
242
[CHAP. VIII.
The Eastern Seas.
with us showed us the boat they had escaped in
drawn up on the beach. There was a large village
at the end of the bay containing a population of
fishermen, and it seemed to be a thriving place, as
the houses all looked neat and well built, something
like those of the Loo-choo islands, and the country
was well cultivated. The hills were of a moderate
height, and undulating in appearance. The simi-
larity of the
of the houses to those in Loo-choo is
accounted for by the fact that the Kosiki islands
belong to the Satsuma Ken or province that con-
quered the Loo-choos; and Satsuma is noted for the
neatness of the houses and intelligence and war-
like qualities of the people. They could give us
no intelligence of the missing boat that we were
searching for, or the people. On my thanking the
headman for the kindness and hospitality that had
been shown to the portion of the crew of the
British schooner that had arrived here, and
requesting to be allowed to defray the expenses
that the people had been put to, he said that the
Japanese government had made arrangements that
everything should be done to assist and relieve
shipwrecked people, and that he was not allowed to
be repaid for it.
Among the many advances in civilization that
Japan has made, their treatment of shipwrecked
CHAP. VIII. Sagitsu-no-ura Harbour.
243
people has been one of the greatest, and would do
credit to any nation; the case I have just men-
tioned is by no means singular.
From this bay we coasted along the rest of the
Kosiki islands, and then as a last chance visited the
harbour of Sagitsu-no-ura, which is situated in
Amekusa island, a portion of the southern part of
Japan; but here also we met with no success in
our inquiries. This harbour is a very good one for
small vessels, but not for large ones.
The country
in the vicinity is very mountainous, and there are
several villages scattered about the harbour and the
hills. Some small rivers flow into the end of the
harbour, which have gradually caused large deposits
of mud to form, making it very shallow. The
inhabitants have therefore reclaimed the land by
raising large embankments made of faggots, clay,
and mud, very thick and substantial, enclosing
about 1,000 acres of land. They still continue their
operations in the most persevering manner.
land will become very valuable for rice, which they
had already commenced to plant. We saw great
quantities of wild duck at the end of the harbour.
This
We now returned to Nagasaki, as we were at
last compelled to believe that in consequence of the
second boat having been missing so long, and the
villages and fishing boats belonging to so many
R 2
244
[CHAP. VIII.
The Eastern Seas.
different places having heard nothing of it, that it
must have foundered in the gale soon after the
schooner did; the number in the boat, from the
account of the survivors, having been more than
she could take with any chance of safety in bad
weather.
During our absence from Nagasaki, the cousin of
the Mikado had arrived in a Japanese iron-belted
corvette to enquire into the cause of the rebellion
at Saga, and settle everything, having received
full powers for that purpose. He was a fine looking
man, and wore the naval uniform, which is very
similar to the English. After finishing the business,
he re-embarked in the corvette and returned to the
capital. The Japanese official that had accompanied
us on our late cruise wore the English dress, and
was a very gentlemanly and well-mannered person.
He was one of the secretaries attached to the
governor, spoke English tolerably well, and ate his
dinner and took to English food quite naturally.
He became very popular on board, as he put up
with his scanty accommodation with good humour,
and only complained of sea sickness, which no one
could prevent him suffering from.
For some time after the rebellion at Saga, the
Japanese had been gradually concentrating large
bodies of troops in the southern provinces, especially
CHAP. VIII.] The Kite flying Festival.
245
in the vicinity of Nagasaki and Kagosima, osten-
sibly for the purpose of preventing any further out-
break. On the 19th of April, much to the surprise
of everyone, the United States Pacific mail steamer
"New York," arrived to embark troops at Naga-
saki, and it was rumoured that she had been
chartered to land them at some place in Formosa ;
soon after the British steamer "Yorkshire" also
arrived for the same purpose. However, the
English minister at Yeddo at once decided that it
would not be right to allow any vessel bearing the
British flag to engage in an expedition that looked
very much like a filibustering one, against a nation
with whom England was at peace, and Japan had
not yet declared war. A notification was therefore
issued at the British Consulate, and the necessary
warning given to the master of the "Yorkshire,"
who of course attended to it. The United States
minister did the same as the British had done,
although, some time afterwards, the same view was
also taken by the other foreign representatives.
On the 25th of April the kite-flying festival took
place at Nagasaki. Nearly all the population, men,
women, and children flocked out of the city, dressed
in their finest clothes, and toiled up to the top of
one of the highest hills in the neighbourhood to
enjoy the festival, and to make a jovial pic-nic on
246
[CHAP. VIII.
The Eastern Seas.
the hill-side. The holiday dress for the ladies and
children was very neat and pretty, composed of silk
of the brightest colours; the obi or thick. sash,
which was tied round the waist and fastened behind
with the greatest care, completed the costume, and
formed a most graceful tout-ensemble.
It was
curious to see the deep interest taken by all, from
the grey-bearded old men to the small children, in
the efforts to make their own kites fly the highest,
and in the art required to manage to cut the string
of any other kite that approached, by skilfully
sawing it through with their own string by a few
sudden jerks; and also in evading the attack of an
enemy. When anyone was successful, the victim's
came floundering down into the valley amidst the
jeers of the conquerors. These kites were mostly
made to represent hawks, or else in a square with
the string placed so as to require no tail. The
father of a family was generally the one to fly the
kite, while the rest of the family looked on with
the deepest interest, the wife making the tea and
refreshing them when necessary. The greatest
good humour prevailed, and they not only inter-
changed the civilities of the tea table with their
friends, but also asked any foreigners present to
join them.
CHAPTER IX.
THE JAPANESE EXPEDITION TO FORMOSA —THE ARRIVAL OF THREE
CANOES AT KELUNG FROM THE PELLEW ISLANDS-JAPANESE
CAMP AT LIANG-KIOU, S. FORMOSA.
THE Japanese had still continued to collect
troops, stores, and guns ready for a formidable
expedition; at the same time they endeavoured to
keep the destination of it a profound secret by
giving out that it was destined to act in case of
a rebellion at home, also by spreading rumours that
they wished to avenge the insult offered to their
ambassadors by the Coreans. They bought two
steamers to use as transports, in consequence of the
foreign governments having forbidden their sub-
jects or citizens from assisting the undertaking. A
steam corvette, bearing the flag of a rear-admiral,
arrived in company with a small gun-vessel to give
the necessary convoy to the transports. The trans-
ports were commanded by foreigners, but the
men-of-war had no foreign officers, their own being
smart and able men, who afterwards proved they
could take care of their own ships on a very dan-
gerous coast, even during the typhoon season. The
248
[CHAP. IX
The Eastern Seas.
telegraph between Nagasaki and Yeddo broke down
just before the departure of the expedition, and
when it was known for certain at Nagasaki that
the expedition was destined to land at a place
called Liang-kiou on the S.W. part of Formosa.
The foreign ministers were therefore unable to
receive any certain intelligence about it till it had
actually sailed, after which the line was reported to
be in working order again.
On the 3rd of May the expedition, consisting of
the two war-vessels already mentioned and two-
steam transports, steamed out of the harbour with
1,200 troops on board, and loaded up with stores
and munitions of war. Other steamers were bought
afterwards, and sent away as soon as the troops.
could be collected and embarked in them, until
about 2,500 soldiers and 1,000 coolies and culti-
vators were landed at Liang-kiou.
The cause of the expedition was given out soon
after the departure of the squadron. It was stated.
that a junk belonging to the Loo-choo islands, of
which Japan claimed the sovereignty, had been
wrecked on the S.E. coast of Formosa two or three
years before, that some of the crew had been bar-
barously murdered by the savages, and that the
rest, after suffering great hardships, had finally
succeeded in making their escape to Takow, from
CHAP. IX.]
219
Expedition to Formosa.
whence they were sent home by the Chinese autho-
rities. In consequence of China having possession
of a part of Formosa, and claiming the whole of it,
the Japanese stated that they had applied to the
Chinese government for redress, who repudiated
their responsibility for the acts of the savage tribes
on the east coast, over whom they said that they
had no control, and that the Chinese had further
told their ambassador that if they wished for
redress they had better go and punish the savages
themselves. The Japanese were therefore sending
this expedition to avenge the murder of the Loo-
chooans, and as it was not possible to land a large
force at the place where the junk was wrecked, on
account of the heavy surf and bad anchorage, they
had decided on landing on the west coast imme-
diately opposite, and marching across the island,
which is only about eight miles wide at that part.
When the Chinese found what a formidable force
had been landed at Liang-kiou, they denied that
the Japanese had ever applied to them, or that they
had ever given them permission to land an armed
force in Formosa, as they now began to fear that
the Japanese meditated the conquest of the whole
island. From the size of the expedition, and from
the reports of the Chinese officials of the number of
Japanese, who, calling themselves merchants, had
250
[CHAP. IX.
The Eastern Seas.
been travelling over and examining every part of
the country for some time previously, their fears
appeared to have some good foundation. At this
time the people of Japan were very unsettled in
consequence of the great changes that had taken
place in the country, and there was a great feeling
in favour of war among nearly all classes.
To stir up the people still more, the fête days of
the Japanese Empress Jingu-kozu, who had partly
conquered the Corea about A.D. 300, were held
with great solemnity; processions took place during
the day and illuminations at night. She was
canonized for these exploits and for being the
mother of Hachimang, who completed the conquest
and had been created their God of War, and was
still worshipped as such. The priests of both the
Buddhist and Sintoist temples united in doing
honour to the occasion.
One evening I was asked to a Japanese dinner to
meet an official of high rank that I was acquainted
with. The dinner was given in a very nice native
house; the guests were served with dishes on little
tables about a foot high and supplied with bowls
for rice, fish, and the various delicacies. We had
no chairs, but had to squat on our legs or recline as
we best could, which I found very inconvenient and
tiring after a time, although the Japanese with their
CHAP. IX.] A Japanese Dinner.
251
short and supple legs had no difficulty in sitting on
their heels or doubling their legs under them.
The tables and bowls were all made of lacquered
wood, and we had to eat with chopsticks, which I
found a little awkward at first, but soon got into
the way of managing. The lady of the house did
not sit down with the guests, but attended to see
that the girls kept the dishes constantly supplied
and the cups of saki full. The courses seemed
endless, and some of the dishes were rather
strange, especially one of raw fish, which was
nevertheless very good. I found the most diffi-
cult part of the entertainment to consist in
drinking the numerous toasts, without offending
those who desired to drink my health, by leaving
heel taps in the cup, which is quite against
Japanese etiquette, it being usual to reverse the
cup, on each occasion to show that it is empty.
The spirit is called saki, and is strong, white in
colour, and made out of rice. Soon after the dinner
commenced several singing girls played on the
guitar and sang during the meal; everyone smoked
that wished. The dinner commenced at eight, and
although I managed to get away quietly at eleven
o'clock, it did not actually break up till one in the
morning. The singing was very monotonous and
shrill, and they had very little variety in the tunes.
252
[CHAP. IX.
The Eastern Seas.
On the 25th of May the "Dwarf" left Naga-
saki to follow the Japanese expedition; after a
favourable run we called in at Kelung and coaled,
and obtained all the information we could about it.
The Japanese war-ships had lately called in and
obtained coal, much to the disgust of the autho-
rities, who could not prevent it being supplied to
them, as they had no instructions from the Central
Government on the subject, and war had not yet
been declared. The Japanese, with ready assurance,
entered into a contract with one of the merchants
to continue to supply coal to all their transports
and war-vessels that should call in and require
it. Many of them took advantage of this con-
tract, as Kelung was most conveniently situated
between Japan and the scene of operations in the
south.
A short time before the arrival of the "Dwarf
at Kelung, three canoes, containing twelve men
belonging to the Pellew islands, had reached
Kelung. They had been blown away from home
while fishing, and had been sixty-four days at sea,
and had travelled about 1,300 miles. A fourth
canoe had been driven off with them, but had
parted company a few days before the others had
arrived at Kelung, and had not since been heard of.
They had lived on the fish they caught, and the
CHAP. IX.]
253
Cast-aways.
rain supplied them with water to drink, as their
bamboo vessels for holding it were very small.
They had coasted Formosa, but had not dared to
land for fear of being killed by the natives; at last
they were fortunately set close in to Kelung, and
discovered by the Europeans at the custom-house,
who had them brought in. A Russian gentleman,
who was in charge of the Chinese Imperial custom-
house at the port, kindly took charge of them, gave
them a place to sleep in, fed and clothed them, as
the climate was colder than their own.
The men
were smaller and darker than the savages in
Formosa. When they were first picked up they
were in a very emaciated condition, but by the kind
treatment they received they soon recovered. On
finding their way on board the ship they appeared
in good spirits and were much petted by the
seamen. In consequence of the great difficulty of
getting these people back to their homes again,
there being no communication between Kelung and
the Pellew islands, they were sent to Hongkong in
an English steamer, and from that place an English
man-of-war eventually took them back to the
Pellew islands. Their canoes were very like
those at Point-de-Galle in Ceylon, being only
about two feet broad, and fitted with an out-
rigger, which had a small neat house built on it
254
[CHAP. IX.
The Eastern Seas.
about two feet and a half high, to give them some
little shelter.
The great distance these people had travelled
without landing, and the length of time that they
existed at sea while drifting about with the current,
show that there is nothing absurd in the theory
that America may have been peopled by men and
women driven away from the Asiatic coast, and
drifted across in a manner similar to the voyage of
these poor fellows. Indeed I have noticed that
there is a great likeness in the type of feature and
colour of the skin between some of the tribes in
North America and also other tribes that live on
the banks of the river Amazon, far in the interior
of the Brazils, and also several of the Asiatic races,
such as the natives of Formosa, Inos of Yesso and
Gelyaks of Siberia. While in South America I
had a good opportunity for examining the different
tribes, as I was sent by the English government
to report on the capabilities of the river Amazon
for trade, when the Brazilians first opened it to
foreign merchant vessels; and by the courtesy of
the Brazilian President of the province of Para,
Admiral Raymundo de la Mar, I was permitted to
ascend the river in H.M. ship "Sharpshooter,"
which I commanded at that time. This was a great
privilege, as the river was not open for foreign
CHAP. IX.] The Japanese Camp.
255
war-vessels, but the President waived the rule in my
favour, on account of my mission being in the cause
of science and commerce.
After calling at Tam-sui, the Pescadore islands,
Taiwanfoo and Takow, where we met H.M. ships
"Thalia" and "Hornet," we proceeded to Liang-
kiou Bay, and anchored off the Japanese camp
on June the 8th. The bay is an open roadstead,
and is a safe anchorage in the N.E. monsoon, when
the wind blows regularly along or off the land,
but is very dangerous in the S.W. monsoon or
summer time, when the winds are irregular and
blow on to the shore, sending in a very heavy sea
with very little warning. It is a fatal place to be
caught at in a typhoon. These storms are not
unfrequent, in consequence of the south end of
Formosa being in the track of typhoons that are
travelling towards the China coast, by way of the
Bashi Channel, or of those that are travelling
towards Japan along the east coast of Formosa. It
was therefore needful to keep the ship prepared to
steam away well clear of the land on the slightest
warning of a typhoon approaching.
When the Japanese had first landed, they made
their camp among the low sand ridges near the
beach; the camp was made of tents, and was clean
and well kept. Afterwards, when the summer ad-
256
[CHAP. IX.
The Eastern Seas.
vanced and the weather became too hot for living
under canvas, they moved to another camp that
they had made of wooden huts with double roofs of
thatch, about a mile farther off and more inland.
The second camp had something the appearance of
a Japanese village; the floors of the huts were raised
off the ground to keep them dry, and a hospital was
erected, and every precaution taken for the health
of the troops. The first camp was broken up when
the second one was finished. There were no war-
ships at Liang-kiou when we first arrived, but
afterwards the Japanese steam corvette and gunboat,
and also transports, came in occasionally, bringing
stores and munitions of war, and taking away any
sick people that it was necessary to send to Japan.
The vessels never remained longer than they could
help at anchor in the bay.
The Chinese town of Liang-kiou was situated
about a mile and a half inland. The mountains
commenced abruptly about two, or two and a half
miles from the beach; between them and the sea
the land was fairly cultivated with rice and sweet
potatoes; several Chinese villages were scattered
about. From this there could be no doubt that the
place where the Japanese had made their camp was
bonâ fide Chinese teritory. The savages held posses-
sion of the mountains, and were in a constant state
CHAP. IX.]
257
The Japanese Camp.
of warfare with the Chinese settlers on the low
country.
(6
I visited the Japanese general, Saigo" by
name. He was a follower of the Prince of Sat-
suma, and was a fine-looking man, all the more so
for being in his national dress when I saw him.
Most of the troops wore a white cotton uniform,
which was cut after the French fashion; they were
armed with rifles. The rest, with the agricul-
turists, wore the national dress, and were indif-
ferently armed. There were several field-pieces in
the camp; the troops appeared to keep their
weapons in good order. The Japanese hired
Chinese from the neighbouring villages to assist
their own people in making the huts, gardens, and
also in laying out the roads in the vicinity of the
camp. The troops numbered about 2,500, and the
Japanese coolies about 1,000 besides.
Soon after this expedition had landed, a force
had been sent inland, which had penetrated the
mountains, and notwithstanding the resistance
made by the warriors of the Bootan tribe, suc-
ceeded in capturing their villages and in holding
the country right across the island, and from
thence to the southern extremity, embracing
tract of country about nine miles square. It was
the Bootan tribe who had massacred the unfortu-
S
258
[CHAP. IX.
The Eastern Seas.
nate Loo-chooans.
Several of the savages had been
killed in the storming of a stockade, which had
been well placed in a pass in the mountains. The
Japanese loss was very small in the engagement, as
they went at it with a dash and carried it quickly
before the defenders had time to recover from their
surprise at the sudden onset. The savage tribe
was armed with matchlocks, bows and arrows, and
spears; many of these were captured and sent to
Japan along with a little savage girl, who had also
been found in a village when her friends had fled.
To prevent the Bootans giving them any further
trouble, a small camp was established on the banks
of a stream which ran into a bay off the eastern
side of the island, where they could communicate
with their vessels in fine weather. This bay was
about eight miles from Liang-kiou, in a straight
line, although, of course, as the road lay through
the mountains, it was not an easy journey, and was
exposed to the attacks of the Bootans, who still
hung about the woods, and cut off any Japanese
that they could, running away with the head and
leaving the body to show their handiwork.
To the south of the Bootans the country was
inhabited by a confederation of eighteen tribes,
who acknowledged the supremacy of one chief in
matters affecting the general welfare of the whole,
CHAP. IX.]
259
Liang-kiou.
although each tribe was governed by its own chief
in all affairs which concerned itself alone. These
tribes had sent a deputation to the Japanese general,
soon after the expedition had landed, to offer their
friendship, which of course the Japanese gladly
accepted; but the eighteen tribes were not required
to take any active measures against their neigh-
bours, the Bootans. In all intercourse with the
neighbouring tribes the Japanese gave forth that
they had merely come to avenge the death of their
countrymen, and at the same time they requested
the good-will of those tribes that were not impli-
cated in the murder, stating that the Japanese were
of a kindred race to the natives who lived on the
east coast and owned no allegiance to China.
While at anchor off Liang-kiou, our ship's com-
pany amused themselves by trying to catch fish
with the seine near the entrance of a small river
close to the camp. Many of the Japanese soldiers
came down and joined in the fun; but when they
had hauled the seine in and found no fish in it,
they all ran away laughing, and did not come
again. Very pretty red coral grows on a bank
near the shore; it is formed like a honeycomb with
very small cells, very curious, but I fancy of little
value for manufacturing, as it is not the coral used
for working up, and it is very brittle.
$ 2
260
[CHAP. IX.
The Eastern Seas.
On the 12th of June we weighed, and worked
round the south end of the island under sail, and
anchored at a small bay on the east coast, where
the before-mentioned Japanese camp was situated.
We found the Japanese corvette at anchor here.
It was near this place that the unfortunate junk
was wrecked. The mountains in the vicinity come
right down to the sea, with only a narrow strip of
rock and sand at the end of the bay, where the
Japanese had about three or four companies of
soldiers encamped. A heavy surf ran on the beach,
but in moderate weather a boat could land at the
entrance of the small river. From this place we
ran round the southern extremity again, and
anchored in South Bay, which must be a capital
anchorage in the N.E. monsoon, but should never
be used by a sailing vessel in the S.W. monsoon, as
she would have a difficulty to get out of it in bad
weather. We made a survey of the bay, which is
well protected from everything, except winds from
the S.W., S., or S.E., and possesses very good hold-
ing ground, the bottom being of a thick sort of
sand. There were several sandy beaches in dif-
ferent parts of the bay, and as there was no surf on
them, our people were very successful with the
seine, and caught some fine fish. They made a fire
on the beach, cooked their suppers in the evening,
CHAP. IX.] The South of Formosa.
261
and enjoyed themselves much. On the last day
that they fished there, a light breeze sprung up
from the S.E., which gradually sent a little swell
in; and after the sun went down and they had
eaten their suppers, it increased so rapidly that the
party had some difficulty in getting off to the ship.
Fortunately we had always taken the precaution to
anchor the cutter, which was the largest boat, well
outside of where the surf would break, the dingy
or small boat being used to lay out the seine and
take the men backwards and forwards from the
cutter to the shore. While trying to get off, the
small boat was capsized by a wave, and the men
and net rolled over and over together with the boat.
However, the men that could swim looked after
those few men that could not, and soon got them
out to the cutter in safety. They then swam back
again and hauled the dingy up and baled her out,
and after placing the net inside, managed to get
her through the surf, and they all returned on
board in high glee at their adventure.
All the villages near the S.W. point of Formosa
were peopled by Chinese and Peppo-hoans, and
owned allegiance to China. On the east side of
the bay, the savage tribes held the country, and
were constantly fighting with their more civilized
neighbours, who have to keep their weapons by
262
[CHAP. IX..
The Eastern Seas.
them ready for use while cultivating their fields.
The natives fished principally in the evening from
catamarans, using fires like those at Kelung and
Sau-o-Bay. Their lights extending across the bay
had a very pretty effect. In the narrative of Lord
Anson's voyage, it is mentioned that while passing
the south end of Formosa in October, 1742, he saw
a great quantity of lights, and believed them to be
made by the natives to invite his ship to approach
and visit them. I expect that the fishermen at that
time were merely following their trade in the same
manner that they do in the present day, and hardly
more anxious for a visit from strangers than they
are now.
There was a very strong current running to the
eastward through the Bashi Channel, which lies
between the south end of Formosa and the Bashi
Islands, but we found that close inshore there was
a slight eddy, which was taken advantage of by
junks going to the westward. There is always a
nasty dangerous sea in the centre of the channel,
caused by the strong current and irregular bottom.
At one of the villages that was inhabited by
Peppo-hoans, they showed me a little Japanese flag,
which they said had been given to them by people
belonging to a Japanese gunboat, that had visited
the place. On receiving it, they had been told that
CHAP. IX.] A Distressed British Subject.
263
it was merely to prevent any small body of Japanese
troops from molesting them, and to show that they
were "good men," and did not belong to the
savages. They appeared rather proud at having
been called good men. These villagers said that
they were very glad that the Japanese had come,
because everything was peaceable now, although
before their arrival they were constantly attacked
by the savages.
After a few days we returned to Liang-kiou,
where we had hardly anchored before a British
subject, a native of Penang, came on board in a
most distressing state, from want of proper food, and
also suffering from a severe attack of fever. Of
course he received every attention, and we carried
him to Takow as soon as possible, and placed him in
the hospital, where the poor fellow ultimately died.
He said he had been employed as an interpreter
by some foreigners who were employed by the
Japanese, and that he had fallen ill and they had
then turned him adrift.
On the 21st of June, a Chinese mandarin of high
rank, accompanied by M. Giguel, who had lately
held the appointment of Director of the Foo-
Chow Arsenal, proceeded to Liang-kiou with three
Chinese gun-vessels, to endeavour to induce the
Japanese to quit the island, as they had now suc-
264
[CHAP. IX.
The Eastern Seas.
ceeded in effectually punishing the murderers of
their countrymen. The Japanese General received
them courteously, but stated that he could not
leave without orders from Japan; indeed he had no
transports to go in if he wished to. Before the
negotiations terminated, a gale came on, driving the
gunboats away, and compelling the commissioners
to return by land, a very fatiguing journey. Before
leaving the town of Liang-kiou, they had sent for
the chiefs of the neighbouring tribes, and induced
those that came to acknowledge allegiance to China,
and sent them away with presents. They also issued
the following Proclamation.
TRANSLATION.
Notification issued by P'an, Treasurer for the
Province of Foukien, Assistant Imperial Commis-
sioner for arranging matters in Formosa, and H-sia,
Taotai of Taiwan, &c.
21 June, 1874.
TUNG CHIH, 13. 5. 8.
"WHEREAS the Japanese have brought an army to
Formosa, to revenge themselves upon the Bootan
savages for the murder of a number of Loo-chooans
who were wrecked near the Bootan village; and
their army has been here ever since the third
month (April-May), and has not been withdrawn;
CHAP. IX.]
265
A Chinese Proclamation.
and they also wish to take vengeance upon the
inhabitants of Pelam and the neighbouring villages,
on the alleged ground of their having plundered a
certain Japanese ship that was wrecked.
"I, the Commissioner, have received the command
of the Emperor to come over to Tai-wan, and assist
the Imperial Commissioner Shên in arranging the
affair.
"Now, the Bootan savages who killed the Loo-
chooans are certainly barbarous murderers; but as
the place where they live is under Chinese govern-
ment, if the treaty is to be observed, they of course
ought to be punished by China.
"As regards Pelam and the other villages; the
Japanese who were shipwrecked there last year
were rescued and protected and delivered to the
mandarins of Ch'ên-an-shêng (Tan-an-sing) the
local chief and others, and were sent back to their
country. Pelam therefore has not merely given no
offence to the Japanese, but has even done them a
kindness.
"If one looks at what is right and reasonable,
one must suppose that the latter will not proceed
to harass unoffending people.
"We, the Commissioner and Taotai are now
going together by steamer to Liang-kiou to
have a personal interview with the Japanese Com-
266
[CHAP. IX.
The Eastern Seas.
mander, General Saigo, and reason with him.
We certainly shall not suffer him to go to other
villages.
"We therefore issue this notification distinctly
ordering the headman of each village concerned, to
give our commands to the inhabitants of the savage
villages and the like, to go on quietly on their
daily occupation and not to be alarmed. We, the
Commissioner and Taotai, will certainly find means
to protect you and keep you from harm if you are
unoffending."
This proclamation was posted in several towns in
the south and also in the capital Tai-wan-foo.
The Japanese at this time held not only the
country to the south of Liang-kiou, but had ad-
vanced their outposts as far north as the village of
Hongkong, which is about eight miles from Liang-
kiou, and is in an important position on account of
the mountain country coming close down to the
sea, and therefore enabling the Japanese to hold
the road with a small force if necessary.
I often had occasion to admire the light and easy
manner in which the small detachments marched to
the different outposts in the hills; they always
appeared cheerful and full of fun. During the
first part of their residence the camp was very
CHAP. IX.]
267
Chinese Naval Forces.
healthy, but towards the end of the summer the
extreme heat and monotony began to tell on them,
and fever broke out.
In consequence of this attempt at negotiating
having failed, the Chinese commenced to pour
troops into Formosa from the mainland, and to
assemble a strong naval force, consisting of a very
fine and powerful steam corvette and several gun-
vessels; which made the harbour of Makung in the
Pescadore islands their port of refuge; and visited
Tai-wan and Liang-kiou when the weather was
favourable. As the summer advanced we also had
to be with them a good deal at Makung, as we had
instructions not to risk the dangers of a lee shore
more than necessary. The captain of the corvette
was a fine old Chinaman, whose good fortune
commenced in consequence of his having acted as
pilot to the "Bittern," an English man-of-war brig
in 1854, when commanded by E. W. Vansittart in
the gallant action at Shepoo, where he destroyed
a large fleet of piratical junks which had done
immense damage to the coasting trade in China.
In the action the master of the "Bittern" had
been killed, and there were eighteen others killed
and wounded, as the pirates fought desperately.
The Chinese government afterwards took the pilot
into their service, and at this time he was in
255
[CHAP. IX.
The Eastern Seas.
command of their finest sea-going corvette, and held
the rank of a military mandarin. The Chinese
possess a larger vessel, a frigate that was built at
Shanghai, but for some reason was not sent to sea.
I also became acquainted with the captains of
several other Chinese gun-vessels and found them
very intelligent and active young men, having
received their education at the Naval College at
Foo-Chow where they were taught by English
officers. Some of them spoke English, and kept
their vessels, guns and crews in good order, and
handled them well.
One of them generally steamed to Liang-kiou,
whenever the weather was fine, to see if more
Japanese troops had arrived, and then returned
immediately. As Liang-kiou was only about 110
miles from Makung and they steamed at the rate of
ten or eleven knots an hour, they usually got back
between the gales, although at last three of them
were caught in a typhoon between Takow and
Liang-kiou, in which one was driven on shore and
broken up, another foundered, and the third was
not heard of for so long that I do not know if she
was lost or not.
A day or so before very bad weather came on, I
noticed that the harbour of Makung swarmed with
jelly fish floating about; and on inquiring about
CHAP. IX.]
269
The Town of Tangkang.
them from the fishermen I was informed that it
was a sure sign of stormy weather.
While at Takow the "Dwarf" endeavoured to
tow a British barque off the beach, where she had
been driven in a typhoon.
In this we were
assisted by the Russian imperial gun-vessel "Gor-
nosty," whose commander had kindly volunteered
his services. Although we both tugged at her
with all our strength, and hove on our cables at the
same time, we did not succeed in moving her, as
she had been driven too far up on the sand.
When this vessel had been driven on shore, three
Chinese junks had been swept out of the harbour
from their moorings and broken to pieces on the
bar outside.
The next day, after finding we could not save the
barque, we ran down along the shore and visited
the river and Chinese town of Tangkang; this town
is very dirty, but has a considerable junk trade as
there are nearly twelve feet of water over the bar.
From thence we called at the village of Hongkong,
where we found a company of Japanese soldiers,
who were living very amicably with the Chinese
and Peppo-hoans belonging to the place. We then
ran on to Liang-kiou, where we found that a heavy
sea was running into the bay, and that the wind
was rapidly freshening from the W.N.W., making
270
[CHAP. IX.
The Eastern Seas.
it unsafe to anchor there; we therefore ran on
round the S.W. point, and anchored in our old
berth in South Bay, which was well sheltered from
this wind. The weather soon got worse, and the
wind gradually backed round to the S.W., causing
a heavy sea to roll into South Bay. We therefore
weighed on the 8th of July, and finding that we
could not steam against the wind to get into the
Formosa channel again to try for some safe
harbour, we had to turn back and run round to the
east side of Formosa, where the wind still followed
us; and we finally went on round the island and
anchored at Tam-sui on the 10th.
On entering the river we noticed that all the
ruins of the old forts had been carefully white-
washed, and that flags were flying on them, and
Chinese soldiers were plainly visible, in the hopes
of frightening any Japanese vessel that might put
in. The troops were principally militia, armed
with matchlocks and spears, and possessing very
little discipline; the levy consisted of one man
from each family.
In consequence of the ship's company having
been for a long time without any good fresh meat
or vegetables, they were beginning to suffer from
boils and ulcers, although the allowance of lime-
juice had been doubled and every precaution taken
CHAP. IX.] The Story of the four Japanese. 271
by the doctor. At Tam-sui we managed to get
some good fresh meat, and the men were sent to
gather watercresses at a stream about a mile from
the town. These cresses were eaten fresh and also
boiled like spinach, and proved an excellent anti-
scorbutic medicine, the good effect being visible in
a few days.
While at Tam-sui we heard a most curious story
of the proceedings of four Japanese who had come
there in the month of May, and after remaining for
a short time had gone on to Kelung, where they
chartered a small junk and went to Sau-o-Bay, on
the east coast. From this place they hired a boat,
and proceeded to the southward until they came to a
small Chinese stockaded village, which was situated
in the savage territory about four miles north of
Chock-a-day, which is a village belonging to the
savages, and situated on a small river or stream.
They proceeded to Chock-a-day by land, and by
making presents to the chiefs obtained permission
to remain. They then settled themselves in a hut
which they hired, and hoisted a Japanese flag on a
hill near the sea.
Fever was very prevalent at this place, being
caused by the high and steep mountains, which are
overgrown with dense vegetation, and close in the
valleys so as to prevent any good circulation of air,
272
[CHAP. IX.
The Eastern Seas.
and also from the extreme dampness of the climate.
The Japanese were at last seized with fever, and
then after some difficulty managed to induce the
savages to assist them to return to Sau-o-Bay, from
whence they easily got to Kelung, where two of
them embarked in the Japanese corvette that hap-
pened to be in the harbour at the time, and the
other two found their way to the Japanese camp at
Liang-kiou. They had left a sealed box in charge
of the savages, and had told them that they would
return as soon as they were recovered, and that
they would bring them more presents in gratitude
for the kind treatment that they had experienced.
Instead of doing this, these Japanese complained to
the Chinese government that they had been robbed
of 1,000 dollars and ill-treated by the tribe that
they had lived with.
On receiving this complaint the Chinese sent a
gun-boat with a mandarin and a gentleman who
was employed in their foreign customs service to
enquire about the truth of the statement. After
much trouble they landed at the small Chinese
village where the Japanese had landed; their boat
was capsized in the surf in doing so, though fortu-
nately no one was drowned. From thence they
made their way to Chock-a-day, and after making
presents of pigs and cloth to the savages, obtained
CHAP. IX.] The Story of the Four Japanese. 273
the sealed box and a few other articles that had
been left by the Japanese. The mandarin then
took care to inform them that the Japanese had
come for no good purpose, and that their country-
men wished to conquer the land, but that China
would protect them, and they need have no fear.
The mandarin then returned to Sau-o-Bay and
landed. A larger gun-boat was in the bay on their
return, and was anchored in the outer part while
the little one got behind the reef in a tolerably
sheltered place. A typhoon came on, and the small
one managed to ride it out at anchor, but the large
one put to sea and was dismasted and lost all her
boats: however, she eventually got to Foo-chow in
safety. The sealed box and other property of the
Japanese adventurers were sent to Tai-wan-foo, and
from there to the Japanese consul at Amoy, with
an intimation that they had no business to land
at any place that was not a treaty port.
I may as well here mention that, although I do
not profess to form an opinion as to the course
taken by the Japanese in avenging the death of
their countrymen, whether they were right or
wrong in landing such a large force in Chinese
territory, the effect has been very beneficial to all
nations that possess vessels trading in these seas, as
it has caused the Chinese to send gun-boats and
T
274
[CHAP. IX.
The Eastern Seas.
officials to several savage villages on the coast, and
to endeavour to induce the chiefs to be kind to any
shipwrecked people that should fall into their
power in future. The Japanese quite ignored the
old excuse of the Chinese that they had no control
over those tribes, and therefore could not be respon-
sible for their acts.
CHAPTER X.
NAGASAKI—EFFECTS OF TYPHOON, AUGUST 20TH, 1874—SHANGHAI
-CHING-KIANG-NANKING-NINGPO-HONGKONG-RELIEVED BY
THE NEW SHIPS COMPANY, NOVEMBER 30TH, 1874.
ON our return to Takow we found that H.M.
ship "Modeste" had arrived from Hongkong, and
had brought orders for us to proceed to Nagasaki,
for which place we accordingly started, and arrived
on the 25th of August, after a very pleasant pas-
sage under sail.
On entering the harbour, we were much surprised
to see that many of the finest trees had been
violently uprooted, that a great number of houses
were in ruins, that several steamers and ships had
been driven on the rocks; the masts of a Japanese
ironclad ("Stonewall") and of several junks were
showing above the water, and there were wreckage
and débris all about the beach in every direction.
This havock was caused by the terrible typhoon
that had taken place four days previously. The
governor's European-built house had been blown
down like a pack of cards; the British consulate
was not habitable, although the flagstaff appeared
T 2
276
[CHAP. X.
The Eastern Seas.
the only one that had weathered the storm, the top-
mast having been sagaciously housed before the
hurricane came on.
The bamboos and trees that had
not been uprooted were
quite brown, as if they had
been scorched with fire.
Heavy rain had succeeded
the typhoon, which made it still more miserable for
the poor people, as they were unable to repair their
houses, but sat shivering under the ruins till the
rain ceased. However, after the rain cleared off,
the Japanese soon recovered their spirits and set
about repairing their houses and junks.
The foreign steamers were soon got off again, but
the loss of lives from the junks that foundered was
very heavy. After much difficulty the ironclad
was raised by being pumped out with two large
centrifugal steam pumps that an English ship-
building firm fortunately possessed.
This typhoon came across from the S.E. like a
whirlwind, and it is calculated to have had a
diameter of about fifty miles; the track over the
south of Japan being only too clearly marked by
the damage done to houses, trees and fields; many
of the latter had the crop washed off by the heavy
rain after the storm.
On the 13th of September the "Iron Duke "
arrived from her northern cruise, and on the 15th
the "Dwarf" was sent to Shanghai. While at
CHAP. X.] The Japanese Expedition.
277
Shanghai we lost one of our men, a marine, who
was returning from leave of absence on shore, and
unfortunately slipped off the jetty into the river in
the dark. He was sucked under by the strong
current and drowned. This river is always con-
sidered fatal to anyone falling into it, on account of
the strong tides and eddies.
We found the Chinese busily employed in re-
pairing the fortifications at Wusung, collecting
troops in the neighbourhood, and then forwarding
them on to Formosa, and making every preparation
as if war was imminent. At the same time negotia-
tions were being carried on with the usual Eastern
delay, which gave ample time to the Chinese to
collect their forces and send them across to
Formosa. The Japanese were also mustering their
troops in the south of Japan, and had several
transports ready, and the people appeared eager to
try their new navy and army against that of the
Chinese.
When it had been known at Shanghai, that the
Japanese ironclad had foundered in the typhoon,
there was great rejoicing among the Chinese, as
they feared the old "Stonewall" much, having no
ironclad of their own; but when they heard she
had been raised again, they were proportionably
dejected.
278
[CHAP. X.
The Eastern Seas.
On October the 12th the "Dwarf" was ordered
to visit Ching-kiang, and other places on the river
Yang-tze-kiang as far as the city of Nanking. On
our way up we noticed that the Chinese were
building forts and collecting troops at the narrow
parts of the river, namely, Kiang-yin and Silver
Island, evidently with the intention of giving any
Japanese invaders a warm reception. Ching-kiang
is a large walled town, and is a very dirty one. It
has a considerable trade, as its situation is near one
of the entrances to the Grand Canal. The country
all round is very fertile, and the large cultivated
plains are intersected by canals in every direction,
which are crowded with boats of all sorts, sizes, and
descriptions, bringing the produce into the towns
on the river for sale and to be exported in larger
vessels. From Ching-kiang towards Nanking, the
country still bears evident signs of its former
occupation by the rebels, although more than ten
years have passed since the Tae-pings were in pos-
session. It is painful to see the country in many
places lying waste, and the large quantity of ruins
of towns and villages that are overgrown with grass
and bushes, and now are a shelter for deer and
pheasants instead of their proper inhabitants. The
Grand Canal also is nearly choked up in many
places; deer and game have increased so much near
CHAP. X.]
279
The Salt Depót.
its bank, that some of the best shooting in China is
obtained in the neighbourhood.
About ten miles above Ching-kiang, there is a
large salt depôt, which supplies the five provinces
of Hunan, Hupeh, Kiangse, Anhuei and Kiangsu.
The salt is brought from the districts of Tai-chow
and Tung-chow, where it is collected in salt pans.
The traffic is so great, that from 1,000 to 2,000
junks and cargo boats are always at this place, to
load and unload their cargoes. The management of
the depôt is under a Commissioner of Salt Gabelle,
who is a mandarin of high rank, and has two others
to assist him, the duty on salt being a source of
very profitable revenue for the government. The
junks are moored in tiers of ten or fourteen abreast
of each other, and close to the north bank of the
river opposite Deer Island. Some of the junks that
come from the interior were very strange, being
high and pointed at both ends, and very low in the
water at the middle. On gala days they have their
bright coloured flags flying, gongs beating, and the
small boats dart about everywhere making a very
busy and cheerful scene, as the junks are mostly
clean and varnished.
At Nanking we saw the Chinese erecting new
batteries for heavy guns to command the anchorage
and the entrance to the creek leading to the arsenal.
280
[CHAP. X.
The Eastern Seas.
They had also a camp of soldiers here, some of
whom were armed with muzzle-loading rifles, others
with swords, spears, or matchlocks.
The arsenal is situated on a creek that runs
beneath the city walls. It is about seven miles
from the entrance, and steam launches can ascend
the whole way to it. When I visited it, Dr.
MacCartney was the superintendent, and managed
to make the Chinese workmen do everything in the
place without the assistance of any other European.
They were busily employed in making torpedoes,
which were to contain 1,000 pounds of powder.
They were fitted with a very ingenious contrivance
to cause the ignition of the whole of this large
charge at once, and by so doing to obtain the
greatest possible effect from the explosion. These
torpedoes were fitted to be fired either by electricity
or concussion, and if handled by people who could
understand and manage them, would effectually
prevent vessels ascending the Yang-tze-Kiang.
They were also busy about making Hale's rockets;
but Dr. MacCartney informed me that the Chinese
preferred Congreve rockets, in consequence of their
finding that they possessed a greater range and
lower trajectory. Gatlin guns, rifled cannon up to
twenty-pounders, and smooth-bore guns up to ten
inches, were being made in the arsenal. A Chinese
СПАР. Х.]
281
The Porcelain Tower.
official and a small guard of soldiers were attached
for the protection of the establishment.
Close to the arsenal were the remains of the
celebrated porcelain pagoda, which is now merely a
heap of rubbish, of brick, tile, and porcelain, with
a great iron basin on the top of it, which originally
crowned the edifice, and is said to weigh twelve
tons. This pagoda was destroyed by the Tae-ping
rebels when they held the city of Nanking, on
account of it being outside the walls and close
enough to overlook them; they were afraid of it
being taken advantage of by the enemy, and there-
fore placed some gunpowder inside the base and
blew it up. The Chinese account of the pagoda is
as follows:
"THE PORCELAIN TOWER AT NANKING.
"A pagoda stood there from time immemorial,
but the first mention thereof is in the annals for
A.D. 241. The great porcelain pagoda was built by
the Emperor Yung-So. It was begun A.D. 1413
and finished 1432. It had nine stories, and was
329 Chinese feet high. At the top was an iron
basin containing five pearls, supposed to have
magical powers, one picul of tea, 1,000 ounces of
silver, a picul of brimstone, two bales of yellow
satin, and sundry prayers to the various personifica-
282
[CHAP. X.
The Eastern Seas.
tions of Buddha. The pagoda and buildings cost
altogether 2,485,484 taels, or about £800,000. It
was destroyed by the Taepings in 1853. Its name
in Chinese was Paons En Tá, or Pagoda of Grati-
tude, it having been built by the Emperor in
memory of his mother."
I measured the walls of the city, and found them
to be 125 feet thick at some places, and the height
varied from fifty to eighty feet, according to the
nature of the ground. They were about twenty
miles in circumference. This will give some idea
of the grandeur of Nanking in the Ming dynasty,
when the emperors held their court here. The
inhabited part is now very small, the rest of the
ground inside the walls consisting of fields and
wilderness, which afford good cover for pheasants;
the shooting both inside and outside of the walls.
being very good. The officers made the best bags
on the north bank of the Yang-tse, about nine
miles from the anchorage, where they found plenty
of deer and pheasants. The tombs of the Ming
Emperors are outside the walls, and consist of a
large mound with two avenues leading to it, one of
figures of warriors carved in stone and another of
animals. The figures of the men are eight in
number and eleven feet high, and those of the
CHAP. X.]
283
Nanking.
animals are twenty in number and fourteen feet
high. The temples in the city and the Tartar
quarter, which formed a fortress in itself, are also
worth seeing; the buildings in the latter, where
the court was held, must have been very grand.
A great part of the trade on the Yang-tze-kiang
is done by large and powerful steamers, which
ascend as far as Hankow, and call at the different
towns that are opened for trade on the way.
We returned to Shanghai on November 2nd.
On the following night a seaman of the U.S.
frigate "Hartford" fell into the river; fortunately
one of our petty officers happened to come down
the jetty at the same time and saw the poor fellow
fall. He immediately jumped in after him and
managed to get him into a boat and then took him
off to his ship. For saving this man's life he
received the thanks of the United States captain,
which were conveyed officially through the Com-
mander-in-Chief. He had already obtained the
Humane Society's medal for a similar act on a
former occasion.
After long negotiations the quarrel between
Japan and China was at last settled; China agreed
to pay to Japan 100,000 taels for the benefit of the
families of the Loo-chooans that had been mur-
dered, and a further sum of 400,000 taels for the
284
[CHAP. X.
The Eastern Seas.
expenses the Japanese had been put to in making
roads and improvements in the south of Formosa.
A tael is a little less than six shillings. Of course
this sum did not represent more than a very small
portion of the expense Japan had incurred in
carrying out this expedition and preparing for war.
The Japanese agreed to leave the island as soon as
the N.E. monsoon set in, which would be about
December; it would have been dangerous for them
to attempt to embark before the weather had
become quite settled. On their return home they
were received with great rejoicings, in consequence
of the honour of Japan having been satisfied in the
punishment of the savage tribes, and also by the
fact of the Chinese having acknowledged their
responsibility by paying an indemnity for the
outrage.
At a place called Xic-a-way, which is about five
miles and a half from the foreign settlement, there
is a large mission school, which is under the charge
of Roman Catholic priests. It contains a school for
130 Chinese boys belonging to rich families who
can afford to pay for their education. These have
large and airy studies and good sleeping rooms
allotted to them, and receive a thorough education
from the priests. The college also contains another
school for poor orphan boys, who are taught
CHAP. X.] Roman Catholic Mission at Shanghai. 285
different trades, such as carpentering, tailoring,
shoemaking, painting, &c., according to what they
are best suited; so that when they leave the school
they may be able to earn their own livelihood.
There were about 110 belonging to the boys'
orphanage, and the same to the girls'. The girls'
orphanage is conducted by Sisters of the Society.
The establishment contains a chapel, and also an
observatory, which is supplied with a good tele-
scope and many valuable astronomical instruments.
There were eight priests residing in it, who are
sometimes changed with those that require to come
to the mission for their health after living among
the Chinese in dirty houses and towns in other
parts of the country. I was informed that the
establishment was self-supporting, the wants of
the priests being very small. They all wore the
Chinese dress.
While at Shanghai we heard that our relief had
at last arrived at Hongkong, a new ship's company
having been sent out in H.M. ship "Victor
Emmanuel." On the 16th of November we there-
fore got under way and bid farewell to Shanghai
and started on our voyage to the south.
We called in at the city of Ningpo on our way,
of which I was very glad, never having been there
before. I was much disappointed in the appear-
286
[CHAP. X.
The Eastern Seas.
ance of the town as there were not many foreign
residents; and those that were here lived in houses
that are scattered about at some distance from each
other, and separated by dirty Chinese streets.
The city is surrounded by a wall and has one good
street in it with some fine shops; but the rest of
the streets were small and dirty and many of them
in ruins.
Instead of burying the dead under ground, the
coffins were placed among the ruins and left to rot
by the action of the elements. This disagreeable
custom gave a very dismal appearance to the place,
and was particularly offensive to the nose and
caused much fever.
The military command of the city was held by
an Englishman who bore the rank and title of
Colonel, and was formerly an officer in Gordon's
"Ever Victorious Army," the remains of which
force were stationed at Ningpo; they had dwindled
down to barely 300 men, but these are well armed
and drilled.
After remaining at Ningpo a few days we pro-
ceeded to Amoy, where I had the opportunity of
saying good-bye to many old friends who had
always shown great kindness and hospitality to the
little ship when stationed here.
From Amoy we proceeded to Hongkong, and on
CHAP. X.]
287
Relieved at Hongkong.
the 30th of November, 1874, the ship's company
that had served their time were sent on board the
commodore's ship, the "Princess Charlotte;" and
the newly-arrived one joined from the "Victor
Emmanuel." Thus ended a very pleasant commis-
sion of three years and eight months on board of
H.M. ship "Dwarf!"
THE END.
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LIST OF WORKS
HOME AND COLONIAL LIBRARY. A A Series of Works
adapted for all circles and classes of Readers, having been selected
Post Svo.
for their acknowledged interest, and ability of the Authors.
Published at 28. and 38. 6d. each, and arranged under two distinctive
heads as follows:-
CLASS A.
HISTORY, BIOGRAPHY, AND HISTORIC TALES.
1. SIEGE OF GIBRALTAR. By
JOHN DRINKWATER. 28.
2. THE AMBER-WITCH. By
LADY DUFF Gordon.
2s.
3. CROMWELL AND BUNYAN.
By ROBERT SOUTHEY. 28.
4. LIFE OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE.
By JOHN BArrow. 28
5. CAMPAIGNS AT WASHING-
TON. By REV. G. R. GLEIG. 28.
6. THE FRENCH IN ALGIERS.
By LADY Duff Gordon. 28.
7. THE FALL OF THE JESUITS.
28.
8. LIVONIAN TALES. 28.
9. LIFE OF CONDÉ. BY LORD MA-
HON. 38. 6d.
10. SALE'S BRIGADE. By REV.
G. R. GLEIG. 28.
11. THE SIEGES OF VIENNA.
By LORD ELLESMERE. 28.
12. THE WAYSIDE CROSS. By
CAPT. MILMAN. 28.
13. SKETCHES OF GERMAN LIFE.
By SIR A. GORDON. 38. 6d.
14. THE BATTLE OF WATERLOO.
By REV. G. R. GLEIG. 38. 6d.
15. AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF STEF.
FENS. 28.
16. THE BRITISH POETS. By
THOMAS CAMPBELL. 38. 6d.
By
17. HISTORICAL ESSAYS.
Lord MAHON. 3s. 6d.
18. LIFE OF LORD CLIVE. By
REV. G. R. GLEIG. 38. 6d.
-
19. NORTH WESTERN RAIL-
WAY. By SIB F. B. HEAD. 28.
20. LIFE OF MUNRO. By REV. G.
R. GLEIG. 38. 6d.
CLASS B.
VOYAGES, TRAVELS, AND ADVENTURES.
1. BIBLE IN SPAIN. BY GEORGE
BORROW. 38. 6d.
2. GYPSIES OF SPAIN BY GEORGE
BORROW. 38. 6d.
8 & 4. JOURNALS IN INDIA.
BISHOP HEBER. 2 Vols. 78.
By
5. TRAVELS IN THE HOLY LAND.
By IRBY and MANGLES 28.
6. MOROCCO AND THE MOORS.
By J. DRUMMOND HAY 28.
7. LETTERS FROM THE BALTIC.
By a LADY. 28.
8. NEW SOUTH WALES. By MBS.
MEREDITH. 28.
9. THE WEST INDIES. By M. G.
LEWIS. 28.
By
10. SKETCHES OF PERSIA.
SIR JOHN MALCOLM 38. 6d.
11. MEMOIRS OF FATHER RIPA.
28.
12 & 13. TYPEE AND OMOO. By
HERMANN MELVILLE. 2 Vols. 78.
14. MISSIONARY LIFE IN CAN-
ADA. By REV. J. ABBOTT. 28.
15. LETTERS FROM MADRAS. By
8 LADY. 28.
16. HIGHLAND
SPORTS. By
CHARLES ST. JOHN. 3s. 6d.
17. PAMPAS JOURNEYS. By SIR
F. B. HEAD 28.
By
18 GATHERINGS FROM SPAIN.
By RICHARD FORD. 38. 6d.
19. THE RIVER AMAZON.
W. H. EDWARDf. 28.
20. MANNERS & CUSTOMS OF
INDIA. By Rev. C. ACLand. 28.
21. ADVENTURES IN MEXICO.
By G. F. RUXTON. 38. 6d.
22. PORTUGAL AND GALLICIA.
By LORD CARNARVON. 38. 6d.
23. BUSH LIFE IN AUSTRALIA.
By REV. H. W. HAYGARTH. 28.
24. THE LIBYAN DESERT. By
BAYLE ST. JOHN. 28.
25. SIERRA LEONE. By A LADY.
3s. 6d.
Each work may be had separately.
PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY.
19
JAMESON'S (MRS.) Lives of the Early Italian Painters-
and the Progress of Painting in Italy-Cimabue to Bassano. New
Edition. With 50 Portraits. Post 8vo. 128,
JENNINGS' (L. J.) Eighty Years of Republican Government in
the United States. Post 8vo. 10s. 6d.
JERVIS'S (REV. W. H.) Gallican
Gallican Church, from the Con-
cordat of Bologna, 1516, to the Revolution. With an Introduction.
Portraits. 2 Vols. 8vo. 28s.
JESSE'S (EDWARD) Gleanings in Natural History. Fep. 8vo. 3s. 6d.
JOHNS' (REV. B. G.) Blind People; their Works and Ways. With
Sketches of the Lives of some famous Blind Men. With Illustrations.
Post 8vo. 78. 6d.
JOHNSON'S (DR. SAMUEL) Life. By James Boswell. Including
the Tour to the Hebrides. Edited by MR. CROKER. New revised Library
Edition. Portraits. 4 Vols. 8vo.
[In Preparation.
Lives of the most eminent English Poets, with
Critical Observations on their Works. Edited with Notes, Corrective
and Explanatory, by PETER Cunningham. 3 vols. 8vo. 22s. 6d.
JUNIUS' HANDWRITING Professionally investigated. By Mr. CHABOT,
Expert. With Preface and Collateral Evidence, by the Hon. EDWARD
TWISLETON. With Facsimiles, Woodcuts, &c. 4to. £3 38.
KEN'S (BISHOP) Life. By a LAYMAN. Portrait. 2 Vols. 8vo. 18s.
Exposition of the Apostles' Creed. 16mo. 1s. 6d.
KERR'S (ROBERT) GENTLEMAN'S HOUSE; OR, HOW TO PLAN
ENGLISH RESIDENCES, FROM THE PARSONAGE TO THE PALACE. Third
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mentary Estimates to 7000l. Post 8vo. 3s.
Ancient Lights; a Book for Architects, Surveyors,
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(R. MALCOLM) Student's Blackstone. A Systematic
Abridgment of the entire Commentaries, adapted to the present state
of the law. Post 8vo. 7s. 6d.
KING EDWARD VITH's Latin Grammar. Seventeenth Edition.
12mo. 3s. 6d.
12mo. 2s. 6d.
First Latin Book. Fifth Edition.
KING GEORGE IIIRD'S CORRESPONDENCE WITH LORD
NORTH, 1769-82. Edited, with Notes and Introduction, by W. BODHAM
DONNE. 2 vols. 8vo. 32s.
KING'S (R. J.) Sketches and Studies; Historical and Descriptive.
8vo. 128.
KIRK'S (J. FOSTER) History of Charles the Bold, Duke of Bur
gundy. Portrait. 3 Vols. 8vo. 458.
KIRKES' Handbook of Physiology. Edited by W. Morrant
Baker, FR (.S. Eighth Edit. With 240 Illustrations. Post 8vo. 128. 6d.
KUGLER'S Handbook of Painting.-The Italian Schools. Fourth
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LADY EASTLAKE. With 140 Illustrations. 2 Vols. Crown 8vo. 30s.
Handbook of Painting.-The German, Flemish, and
Dutch Schools. Third Edition. Revised and in part re-written. By
J. A. CROWE. With 60 Illustrations. 2 Vols. Crown 8vo. 248.
LANE'S (E. W.) Account of the Manners and Customs of Modern
Egyptians. New Edition. With Illustrations. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 123.
LAWRENCE'S (SIR GEO.) Reminiscences of Forty-three Years'
Service in India; including Captivities in Cabul among the Affghans
and among the Sikhs, and a Narrative of the Mutiny in Rajputana.
Edited by W. EDWARDS, I.M.C.B.S. Crown 8vo. 10s. 6d.
C 2
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LIST OF WORKS
LAYARD'S (A. H.) Nineveh and its Remains. Being a Nar-
rative of Researches and Discoveries amidst the Ruins of Assyria.
With an Account of the Chaldean Christians of Kurdistan; the Yezedis,
or Devil-worshippers; and an Enquiry into the Manners and Arts of
the Ancient Assyrians. Sixth Edition. Plates and Woodcuts. 2 Vols.
8vo. 368.
** A POPULAR EDITION of the above work. With Illustrations.
Post 8vo. 78. 6d.
Nineveh and Babylon; being the Narrative of Dis-
coveries in the Ruins, with Travels in Armenia, Kurdistan and the
Desert, during a Second Expedition to Assyria. With Map and
Plates. 8vo. 21s.
* A POPULAR EDITION of the above work.
Post 8vo. 7s. 6d.
With Illustrations.
LEATHES' (STANLEY) Practical Hebrew Grammar.
Hebrew Text of Genesis i.—vi., and Psalms i.-vi.
Analysis and Vocabulary. Post 8vo. 7s. 6d.
With the
Grammatical
LENNEP'S (REV. H. J. VAN) Missionary Travels in Asia Minor.
With Illustrations of Biblical History and Archæology. With Map
and Woodcuts. 2 Vols. Post 8vo.
248.
LESLIE'S (C. R.) Handbook for Young Painters. With Illustra-
tions. Post 8vo. 7s. 6d.
Life and Works of Sir Joshua Reynolds. Portraits
and Illustrations. 2 Vols. 8vo. 428.
LETTERS FROM THE BALTIC. By a LADY. Post 8vo. 28.
MADRAS. By a LADY. Post 8vo. 28.
SIERRA LEONE. By a LADY. Post 8vo. 38. 6d.
LEVI'S (LEONE) History of British Commerce; and of the Eco-
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LEWIS'S (M. G.) Journal of a Residence among the Negroes in the
West Indies. Post 8vo. 28.
LIDDELL'S (DEAN) Student's History of Rome, from the earliest
Times to the establishment of the Empire. With Woodcuts. Post 8vo.
78. 6d.
LINDSAY'S (LORD) Lives of the Lindsays; Memoir of the
Houses of Crawfurd and Balcarres. With Extracts from Official Papers
and Personal Narratives. 3 Vols. 8vo. 24s.
Etruscan Inscriptions. Analysed, Translated, and
Commented upon. 8vo. 12s.
LLOYD'S (W. WATKISS) History of Sicily to the Athenian War;
with Elucidations of the Sicilian Odes of Pindar. With Map. 8vo. 148.
LISPINGS from LOW LATITUDES; or, the Journal of the Hon.
Impulsia Gushington. Edited by LORD DUFFERIN. With 24 Plates. 4to. 21.
LITTLE ARTHUR'S HISTORY OF ENGLAND.
BY LALY
CALLCOTT. New and Cheaper Edition, continued to 1872. With Wood-
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Narrative of an Expedition to the Zambezi and
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Map and Illustrations 8vo. 218.
Last Journals in Central Africa, from 1865 to
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ings. By Rev. HORACE WALLER. Maps and Illustrations. 2 Vols.
8vo. 288.
LIVONIAN TALES. By the Author of "Letters from the
LIVONIAN TALES.
Baltic." Post 8vo.
28.
LOCH'S (H. B.) Personal Narrative of Events during Lord
Elgin's Second Embassy to China. Second Edition. With Illustratious.
Post 8vo. 98.
PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY.
21
LOCKHART'S (J. G.) Ancient Spanish Ballads.
Romantic. Translated, with Notes. New Edition.
Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 58.
Historical and
With Portrait and
18.
Life of Theodore Hook. Fcap. 8vo.
LONSDALE'S (BISHOP) Life. With Selections from his Writings.
By E. B. DENISON. With Portrait. Crown 8vo. 10s. 6d.
LOUDON'S (MRS.) Gardening for Ladies. With Directions
and Calendar of Operations for Every Month. Eighth Edition. Wood-
cuts. Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d.
LUCKNOW: A Lady's Diary of the Siege. Fcap. 8vo. 48. 6d.
LYELL'S (SIR CHARLES) Principles of Geology; or, the Modern
Changes of the Earth and its Inhabitants considered as illustrative of
Geology. Eleventh Edition. With Illustrations. 2 Vols. 8vo. 328.
Student's Elements of Geology. Second Edition. With
Table of British Fossils and 600 Illustrations. Post 8vo. 98.
Geological Evidences of the Antiquity of Man,
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on the Origin of Species. Fourth Edition. Illustrations. 8vo. 14s.
(K. M.) Geographical Handbook of Ferns. With Tables
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LYTTON'S (LORD) Memoir of Julian Fane. With Portrait. Post
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MCCLINTOCK'S (SIR L.) Narrative of the Discovery of the
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MACDOUGALL'S (COL.) Modern Warfare as Influenced by Modern
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MACGREGOR'S (J.) Rob Roy on the Jordan, Nile, Red Sea, Gen-
nesareth, &c. A Canoe Cruise in Palestine and Egypt and the Waters
of Damascus. Cheaper Edition. With Map and 70 Illustrations.
Crown 8vo. 78. 6d.
MACPHERSON'S (MAJOR) Services in India, while Political
Agent at Gwalior during the Mutiny. Illustrations. 8vo. 128.
MAETZNER'S ENGLISH GRAMMAR. A Methodical, Analytical,
and Historical Treatise on the Orthography, Prosody, Inflections, and
Syntax of the English Tongue. Translated from the German. By
CLAIR J. GRECE, LL.D. 3 Vols. 8vo. 368.
MAHON (LORD), see STANHOPE.
MAINE'S (SIR H. SUMNER) Ancient Law: its Connection with the
Early History of Society, and its Relation to Modern Ideas. Fifth
Edition. 8vo. 128.
Village Communities in the East and West. Second
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MALCOLM'S (SIR JOHN) Sketches of Persia. Post 8vo. 38. 6d.
MANSEL'S (DEAN) Limits of Religious
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Thought Examined.
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Gnostic Heresies of the First and Second Centuries.
With a sketch of his life and character By Lord Carnarvon.
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MANUAL OF SCIENTIFIC ENQUIRY. For the Use of
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22
LIST OF WORKS
MARCO POLO. The Book of Ser Marco Polo, the Venetian.
Concerning the Kingdoms and Marvels of the East. A new English
Version. Illustrated by the light of Oriental Writers and Modern
Travels. By COL. HENRY YULE. New Edition. Maps and Illustra-
tions. 2 Vols. Medium 8vo. 428.
MARKHAM'S (MRS.) History of England. From the First Inva-
sion by the Romans to 1867. Woodcuts. 12mo. 3s. 6d.
History of France.
From the Conquest by the
Gauls to 1861. Woodcuts. 12mo. 38. 6d.
History of Germany. From the Invasion by Marius
to 1867. Woodcuts. 12mo. 3s. 6d.
(CLEMENTS R.) Travels in Peru and India. Maps
and Illustrations. 8vo. 168.
MARRYAT'S (JOSEPH) History of Modern and Medieval Pottery
and Porcelain. With a Description of the Manufacture. Third
Edition. Plates and Woodcuts. 8vo. 42s.
MARSH'S (G. P.) Student's Manual of the English Language.
Post 8vo. 78. 6d.
MATTHIE'S GREEK GRAMMAR. Abridged by BLOMFIELD,
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MAUREL'S Character, Actions, and Writings of Wellington.
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MAYNE'S (CAPT.) Four Years in British Columbia and Van-
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MEADE'S (HON. HERBERT) Ride through the Disturbed Districts of
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MEREDITH'S (MRS. CHARLES) Notes and Sketches of New South
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MESSIAH (THE): The Life, Travels, Death, Resurrection, and
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MILLINGTON'S (REV. T. S.) Signs and Wonders in the Land of
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MILLS' (REV. JOHN) Three Months' Residence at Nablus, with
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MILMAN'S (DEAN) History of the Jews, from the earliest Period
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Annals of St. Paul's Cathedral, from the Romans to
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Character and Conduct of the
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Quinti Horatii Flacci Opera.
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Life of Quintus Horatius Flaccus.
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MICHIE'S (ALEXANDER) Siberian Overland Route from Peking
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MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. Founded on Principles of
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MONGREDIEN'S (AUGUSTUS) Trees and Shrubs for English
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MOORE & JACKMAN on the Clematis as a Garden Flower.
Descriptions of the Hardy Species and Varieties, with Directions for
their Cultivation. 8vo. 108. 6d.
MOORE'S (THOMAS) Life and Letters of Lord Byron. Cabinet
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remarkable Progress of the Japanese in Western Civilisation. With
Map. 8vo. 158.
MOTLEY'S (J. L.) History of the United Netherlands: from the
Death of William the Silent to the Twelve Years' Truce, 1609. Library
Edition. Portraits. 4 Vols. 8vo. 60s. Cabinet Edition. 4 Vols. Post
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Life and Death of John of Barneveld,
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MOUHOT'S (HENRI) Siam, Cambojia, and Lao; a Narrative of
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MOZLEY'S (CANON) Treatise on Predestination. 8vo. 14s.
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MUNDY'S (GENERAL) Pen
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Memoirs. With Notices of his Contemporaries,
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NIMROD ON THE CHASE, 18.
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NAPOLEON AT FONTAINEBLEAU AND ELBA. A Journal
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OLD LONDON; Papers read at the Archæological Institute.
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