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N išN ||||||| ºntºlºmº sº. “y” ºf a . |{{ ill; III §.z: |-ſ-º •→） .| ſº [] | 8 { | | { il ∞… -- ~+-+-+:– Caeſ)، <！--* * · * * · *** ŒMAIIſIII|[[[[[[[[[[[{{{III}}{{ſiſi x3=x----ſ , K × × . \,r-r-r-r-zy-r--r--r--r--r~ÇI'ST (ITA）-¿? ſſſſſſſſſſſſſſſſſſſſ！!!¿1. （Illifº i|} | }} |}]]|}}], {{ij}}{}}{{ſýſl{{#¡¡¡¡ ¿ {{{1} {{{lſ] i [] []; []; l) A le 7 O X G A 4-3 - | | - - A new Complete historm OF THE " " " .. " - TF10). As ALLEN Author of the º pf Tambeth, ºstern of ſomeomºr. - ILLUS'ſ £APEID 3'ſ A SERIES or yigy's. º on stºº. IFIROM º pºses, - CATHEDRAL ANTiº IITIºs. - - L OND ON . - - PUBLISHED BY I. T. HINTON. war wick S Q UAERE. 1831. - - - % … * A 9 -/*- : * 2 : 62/ CONTENTS OF WOL. III. BOOK WI.-History AND TopogFAPHICAL SURvey of THE WEST RIDING. CHAP. H. Survey of Strafforth and Tickhill Wapentake. Ancient Rise and Progressive Increase of the Town of Sheffield, Manorial History, and Municipal Government . . . . . . . . . . . . CHAP. II. Manufactures of Sheffield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - CHAP. III. Survey of the Churches and Chapels, with some Account of the Public Charities in the Town of Sheffield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Survey of the Town of Sheffield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . * CHAP. V. Survey of the Townships of Sheffield, and of the Parishes forming the South Division of Strafforth and Tickhill Wapentake. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CHAP. VI. Survey of the Parishes forming the North Division of Strafforth and Tickhill Wapentake * CHAP. VII. Survey of the Soke of Doncaster . . . . . . . . ‘e e a g g g g is 's e e s • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * . . . . . . - CHAP. VIII. Survey of Osgoldcross Wapentake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - e º ſº tº ſº - CHAP. IX. Survey of the Wapentakes of Morley and Agbrigg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CHAP X. *~ Survey of the Wapentakes of Barkstone Ash, Staincross, Staincliffe and Ewecross.... - - CHAP. XI. - Survey of the Liberty of Ripon, and the Wapentake of Skyrack and Claro . . . . . . . . . BOOK VII.-HisToRY AND Topographical, SURVEY of THE NonTH RIDING. CHAP. I. - Survey of Whitby Strand Liberty, and Pickering Lythe Wapentake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - - - CHAP. II. Survey of Rydale, Bulmer, Birdforth, Halikeld, and Hang Wapentakes ... . . . . . . . . . . - • CHAP. III. Survey of the Wapentakes of Gilling, Langbargh and Allertonshire. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page 31 43 64 73 ii . CONTENTS, :*#- ILLUSTRATIONS. Page Page Page Castle Howard (frontispiece.J Entrance to Skipton Castle. 337 Interior of Richmond Castle 509 Trinity Church, Sheffield.... 43 Skipton Castle ............ 338|Market Place, Richmond ... 511 St. Mary’s Church, Sheffield 53 Skipton Church.... . . . . . . . . 889 || Rokeby Hall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 514 Shrewsbury Hospital, ditto 59 | Bolton Priory ......... .... 340 | Eggleston Abbey . . . . . . . . . . ib. Town Hall, Sheffield. . . . . . . 64 Bolton Hall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ib. | Marsk and Clints . . . . . . . . . . 516 Music Hall, Sheffield ....... 70 The Strid...... . . . . . . . . . . . 841 | Easby Abbey . . . . . . . . . . . . . ib. The Manor House, Sheffield. 73 | Bolton Abbey, west front .. 842 | Aske Hall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 517 Rotherham Bridge . . . . . . . . . 100 | Barden Tower . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343 Bridge at Barnard Castle . . . ib. Conisbrough Castle........ 113 || Browsholme Hall.......... 848 || Ruins of Sheriff Hutton Cas- Roach Abbey . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Malham Cove . . . . . . tº ſº ºn tº a tº a 354 the . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 479 Cusworth House .......... 143 | Gordale Scar...... . . . . . . . . 855 | Byland Abbey . . . . . . . . . . . . . 489 Wentworth House. . . . . . . . . . 117 | Ripon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361 Hornby Castle . . . . . . . . . . . . 498 St. George’s Ch. Doncaster 184 Ripon Minster . . . . . . . . . . . . 365 Masham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ib. Christ Church, Doncaster ... 188 Ripon Market Place ....... 371 Swinton House ............ 499 Grand Stand, Doncaster . . . . 194 | Fountains Abbey . . . . . . . . . . 373 || Middleham Castle . . . . . . . . . 500 Mansion House, and New Interior of Fountains Abbey 375 Aysgarth Force . . . . . . . . . . . 501 Betting-room . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 || Newby Hall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376 | Hardraw Force ............ ib. Pontefract . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 | Fountains Hall . . . . . . . . . . . . ib. Junction of the Ure with Ferrybridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 | Studley Royal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 377 | Mossbeck Fell ........... 502 Goole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 | Harewood House . . . . . . . . . . 387 | Bolton Castle . . . . . . . . . . . ... 505 Halifax . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 Otley Bridge, Wharfedale .. 391 || Wetherby Bridge .......... 4.25 Halifax Church .......... ... 238 Denton Hall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 393 | Whitby Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429 Assembly-rooms, and Trinity Farnley Hall. . . . . . ........ 394 | North-east View of Whitby Church, Halifax ... . . . . . . 289 || Knaresborough. . . . . . . . . . . . 395 || Abbey . . . . . . . - - - - - - - - - . 440 Crown-street, Halifax ... . . . 241 Ruins of Knaresborough Whitby Abbey . . . . . . . . . . . . 441 Halifax Gibbet ..... f = • * * * * 244 | Castle ............ . . . . . . 898 || Robin Hood's Bay.......... 445 The Old Church, Bradford ... 258 || Dropping Well, Knaresbo- Scarborough Castle ........ 451 Bradford Grammar School ... ib. rough . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 401 || Museum and New Bridge, Huddersfield Infirmary ..... 269 |St. Roberts Chapel, Knares- Scarborough . . . . . . . . . . . 446 Wakefield Bridge . . . . . . . . . . 279 borough . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ... 402 || Ayton Castle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458 Chantry on the Bridge at Sulphur Spring, Harrogate . 405 || Pickering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462 Wakefield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 | Hackfall. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ... 413 || Malton Lodge . . . . . . . . . . . . . 465 Heath Hall, near Wakefield . 288 Ripley Castle....... . . . . . . 422 | Rievaulx Abbey ... . . . . . . . . 470 West Front of Selby Church. 305 || Jerveaux Abbey ........... 506 || Interior of Rievaulx Abbey ib. Selby Bridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 | Richmond . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 508 || Lastingham Church ........ 474 Gateway of the Palace, Cawood 309 || Richmond Castle .......... 509 | i Vignette Title.—On an altar are placed several curiosities deposited in York Minster : viz. the Horn of Ulphus, and some chalices, vide vol. i. p. 287. In the back ground is a rich Cross, discovered at Sherburne, (vide vol. iii. p. 316,) and part of the Choir Screen in York Minster. The scroll depending from the table displays the armorial bearings of the following Religious Houses:— 1. Byland Abbey. Quarterly, gu... and ar., a crosier in bend dexter, or.—2. Bolton Abbey. Gu. a cross patoncé vaire, ar. and 'az.—3. Kirkstall Abbey. Az. three swords, their points in base, hilts and pomels, or—4. Bridlington Priory. Per pale, sa, and ar., three Roman B's counter-changed, two and one.-5, Knaresborough Abbey. Ar. a lion rampant, gu., within a border of the last bezantée.— 6. Nostal Priory. Gu. a cross between four lions rampant, or. —7. Pontefract Priory. Quarterly, ar. and gu, a bend sa, ; over all, a label of five points, arg—8. Rievaulx Abbey. Gw. three water. bougets, ar. ; in pale, a crosier, or. —9. Fountains Abbey. Az. three horseshoes, two and one.— 10. Malton Priory. Ar. three bars, gu, ; over all, a pilgrim’s crutch, in bend sinister, of the first.— I l. Jeryeaux Abbey. Gu, three escallops ar.—12. Whitby Abbey. Az. three snakes encircled, or, two and one. H is To R Y OF T H E C O U N TY OF Y O R. K. . BOOK WI. HISTORY AND TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY OF THE WEST RIDING. CHAPTER I. SURVEY OF STRAFFORTH AND TICKEIILL WAPENTAKE-ANCIENT RISE AND PROGRESSIVE INCREASE OF THE TOWN OF SHEFFIELD, MANORIAL HISTORY, MUNICIPAL GOVERNMENT, &c. THE extensive and populous wapentake of Strafforth and Tickhill is divided into two chap. i. portions; the south division contain the following parishes:– ARMTHORPE, HANDSWORTH, STAINTON WITH HELLABY, ASTON WITH AUGHTON, HARTHILL WITH WOODALL, THORNE, AUSTON, HATFIELD, THORPE SALVIN, BARNBY UPON DON, HOOTON ROBERTS, THRIBERG, B RAITHWELL, - LAUGHTON EN LE MORTHEN, TICKHILL, i CANTLEy, RIRK SANDALL, TODWICK, CONISBROUGH, MALTBY, TREETON, DINNINGTON, MEXBOROUGH, wADsworth, EDLINGTON, RAVENFIELD, ar WALBS, | FIRBECK, ROTHERHAM, WARMsworth, \ FISHLAKE, SHEFFIELD, WHISTON, ! - WICKERSLEY. The town and parish of SHEFFIELD is situate in the southern part of the West Sheffield. riding, bordering upon Derbyshire, in the liberty of Hallamshire, and distant from WOLs lll. B 2 HISTORY OF Book VI. London 164 miles, from York 55, and from Doncaster and Worksop, 18 miles. It Situation. is the capital of the district called Hallamshire, supposed to have been planted by the legionaries of the Roman emperor Adrian, before the Norman conquest. The extent of this district is not correctly determined, but it may be said to include the three parishes of Sheffield, Handsworth, and Ecclesfield, containing altogether about one hundred thousand acres. In population and importance, Sheffield is considered to be the second commercial town in the county. The parish is of great extent, stretching about ten miles in length with an average breadth of about three miles, forming an area of upwards of twenty-two thousand acres. The distance of the parish of Sheffield, from the eastern and western seas, is nearly equal; and although it is further from the most northern point of Scotland than from the southern coast of England, yet a line, which might be drawn nearly straight from Liverpool to Hull, passing through Sheffield, would divide the island into two nearly equal portions. It lies on the eastern side of that high and moun- tainous tract which Dodsworth, who rarely hazards such a remark, says may be called the English Apennines; “ because the rain water which there falleth, shed- deth from sea to sea.” The ridge of this tract lies nearly in the direction from north to south. The mountains of Westmoreland, Craven, and the Peak belong to it, and it is finally lost to the south in the moorlands of Staffordshire. Sheffield lies rather at the foot of these hills than among them : & 6 qua se subducere colles Incipiunt, mollique jugum demittere elivo Usque ad aquam,” The town, at least, stands at the point of union of many streams, then become not inconsiderable, which have their rise amongst those hills, and where the hills are fast subsiding into that fine level champaign country which extends to Doncaster and beyond it. “It is in a country like this,” says Mr. Hunter, the elegant historian of South Yorkshire, “that we look for the beautiful in landscape. The grander and more august features of nature are to be sought in regions decidedly moun- tainous ; and are contemplated with more complete satisfaction, where the artificial creations of man have not intruded to break the harmony of the scene. But the softer graces of landscape are to be chiefly found in a district uneven but not mountainous, and may be contemplated with not less pleasure because amon them are to be found some of the works of human hands. Close and well-woode valleys, with streams glittering along them, and the bare scar occasionally peeping through the foliage; hills appearing from behind other hills of nearly equal altitude, | * Description of the course of the river Don. Dods. MSS. in Bibl. Bodl. vol. clz. f. 196. So Camden : and so, long before his time, in the 7th Iter. of Richard of Cirencester, Alpes Peninos. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 3 some bearing fine masses of wood, and others studded with cheerful villas; views of wonderful extent, embracing a variety of objects, some of which are associated with events of historical importance ; these are what the vicinity of Sheffield pre- sents to the lovers of picturesque beauty, and which never fail to arrest the attention of the passing traveller. It need not, however, be concealed, as it cannot be denied, that the great increase of its population and the extension of its commerce have done too much in injuring the beauty of the near, and the effect of the distant landscape. Still, however, there are many parts where the country retains much of its primeval character, and where the few low and picturesque buildings, erected for commercial purposes, rather harmonize with than deform the scene. This is well known to those lovers of nature who have traced to their sources those two mountain streams, the Porter and the Riveling, the banks of which, in many places, present some of the rarer and more picturesque combina- tions. The Don, the most considerable of the Sheffield rivers, flows along the most populous parts of the parish. But few of the streams which run among these hills, can bear away the palm for picturesque beauty from this river, and in that part of its course immediately before it enters the parish of Sheffield; I mean in the neighbourhood of Wharncliffe Chase, where the hills are finely clothed with native woods, and rise boldly, though not abruptly, from its banks, till they place the visitor on an elevation from which he may command a prospect rich, varied, extensive, and beautiful as eye can behold.” The Don takes its rise near the springs of the Mersey, about four miles above Penistone, and taking a south-eastern course, it enters the parish of Sheffield at Wardsend, after a run of fifteen miles. The Sheaf (from which the town takes its name) starts from the woody vale in which the abbey of Beauchief is situate, a monastery which at one period of the history of this parish was a place of con- siderable interest. The river steals silently along its low channel, and receives in its passage the tribute of the Porter, a noisy and rapid stream which rises near Fullwood head, taking a short but beautiful course on the western and southern limits of the town. The Sheaf enters Sheffield at the park, and shortly empties itself into the Don. The Riveling takes its origin in a wild and high country two miles to the south of Ughill, and, separating the parishes of Sheffield and Ecclesfield, unites with the Loxley, near Mousehole Forge; this stream terminates in the Don at Owlerton. The Loxley has but a short run in the parish of Sheffield, its spring being near the village of Bradfield; it flows through a desolate country called Loxley chase, which is thought to have given name to the Loxley, so famed in old English ballads. CHAP. I. * Hunter’s Hallamshire, p. 2. RiversDon and Sheaf. 4. º HISTORY OF Book VI. In the grounds of a most beautiful spot, about four miles from Sheffield, called Little Matlock (after the famed Matlock, in Derbyshire, which it much resembles) is a well, which has been named Robin Hood's well from time out of mind; and the ruins of a house are also to be seen, in which it is said that famous marauder first drew his breath. . The Don has now got a considerable accession of importance from these smaller rivers, and takes a north-eastern direction through Attercliffe, Rotherham, and Doncaster, finally terminating in the Ouse, which conveys it to the Humber. Salmon, which were formerly plentiful in the Don, are now rarely found there. Sometimes a solitary fish is caught, and in the month of August, 1756, a very fine one was taken at Broomhead mill, on one of the tributary streams, nine or ten miles above Sheffield. They seek waters where they are less disturbed by works, and weirs, and barges. The Don, about Sheffield, is now chiefly noted for chub, and the Riveling for trout. None of these rivers are navigable within the parish. The Don has been made navigable, as we shall have hereafter to notice; but it does not reach nearer than Tinsley, four miles distant. These streams are, however, of more consequence to the manufactures of Sheffield in another respect. The falls upon them furnish an easily directed and immense power for machinery; and it is certain, that without them it would not have attained its present celebrity as a mart for one of the staple articles of British manufacture. Nearly the whole of the parish of Sheffield is now enclosed and cultivated. There is much old enclosure. The park, which contains above two thousand acres, was divided into farms about the commencement of the eighteenth century. Previously to that period this fine tract of land surrounding the summer mansion called the Manor, and reaching to the castle of Sheffield, had been reserved for the pleasure of the lord. The farms rarely exceed two hundred acres, and are for the most part held on leases for a term of years. They are generally in tillage, there being but comparatively little meadow land. The neighbourhood of Sheffield abounds in wood: within the parish are three woods of considerable extent, the Old or Shirecliffe-park, Wincobank-wood, and Ecclesall-wood, the last of which is the property of Earl Fitzwilliam. The other two are on the extensive estate of the duke of Norfolk, whose woodward is said to have the oversight of about two thousand five hundred acres of wood in the neighbourhood of Sheffield. In 1719, an exact survey was taken of the woods belonging to the duke of Norfolk, when it was found there were - Enclosure of Shef- field. Woods. 25 woods in Ecclesfield . . . . . . . . . . ... . 4 s a a s a s 1380 acres. 7 woods in Bradfield. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 2 woods in Handsworth. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 . • THE COUNTY OF YORK. & 5 º - 2 woods in Whiston. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 acres. 14 woods in Sheffield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429 52 woods. 2585 acres.* The parish of Sheffield is rich in its mineral productions, especially iron, coal, and stone. The iron ore, says Mr. Hunter, is found in many parts of the parish, at the depth of about fifty or sixty feet. It was doubtless the presence of the raw material which first led the inhabitants of this district to manufactures of iron. But these mines are now comparatively of small importance to the staple branches of the Sheffield manufactures, for steel is what is principally wanted; and whether from any inferiority in the ore itself, or from any difference in the original smelting and preparation, the native iron of this neighbourhood is not found to bear the process of conversion into steel so well as the iron imported from abroad. The use of charcoal for the smelting of iron-ore, was one great cause of the destruction of so many of our ancient forests. Evelyn has beautifully observed that “ Nature has thought fit to produce this wasting ore more plentifully in woodlands than any other ground, and to enrich our forests to their own destruction.” Of the iron used at Sheffield, in the state of iron, a large proportion is now brought from a distance.f. - The general depth to the bed of coal, which lies under the iron, is about 120 yards. The bed of coal is about five feet in thickness, and is the principal source of that large supply of fuel which the manufactories of Sheffield demand; and ha been so from a very early period. Leland, writing in the time of Henry VIII says, “Halamshire hath plenti of woodde, yet there is buried much se-coal;” by which he means the native coal of the neighbourhood, such as was brought to London, his native place, by sea.j: There are some excellent quarries in this parish, yielding a hard and durable stone, especially those at Loxley ; and a good stone for slating can be obtained at Brincliffe edge, which also formerly furnished the manufacturers with grinding * The Wortley family had about the same extent in Wharncliffe and its neighbourhood.—Hunter. + Foreign iron was in use at Sheffield more than two centuries and a half ago. In the accounts of the church burgesses occur these entries under the year 1557. - Paid to Robt. Moore for one stone and qrter of Danske yron . . . . . . xxijd. Paid to ye same Robt. for x lib. of Spany'sche yron . . . . . . . . . XV It was wanted for a structure which was erected in the Church of Rome at Easter, called the sepul- chre. We may collect from these entries the relative value of Spanish iron to that which was imported from the Baltic. It was as seven to six ; the hundred of Spanish iron costing by retail fourteen shillings, of Danish twelve. f Itin. vol. v. f. 94. WOL. III. C CHAP. I. Mineral produc- tions. Coal. 6 - . HISTORY OF stones; but for this necessary article they are now chiefly indebted to the quarries at Wickersley, nine miles from the town. - Whilst the Saxons were the proprietors of this neighbourhood, it does not clearly appear to what division or parish Sheffield belonged; but from the circumstance of Treeton, five or six miles to the east, having a church at this period, it is probable that the south-eastern ports, together with Handsworth, owned a dependance upon that place. When the Normans became the lords of the soil, it sustained most important changes; four churches were erected in the neighbourhood, and certain manors were assigned to each for its parish. Sheffield, Bradfield, Ecclesfield, and Handsworth, are the places at which these churches were erected. The two small manors of Grimesthorpe and Attercliffe, together with its own and part of the manor of Hallam, were assigned as the parish of Sheffield. These four manors, with many other estates in the counties of York and Nottingham, became the pro- perty of one proprietor, forming one entire manor, which was afterwards called the manor of Sheffield, and on which was situate the castle of its lord. This manor is described in the Domesday survey, taken at the command of William the Conqueror, as being terra Rogerii de Busli,” one of the retinue of the duke of Normandy during his successful invasion of this country. There is nothing which can lead us to determine with great accuracy in what part of this manor stood the aula or hall of its lord."f It is most probable that it was on the castle hill at the junction of the Don and Sheaf, in the town of Sheffield; for it is certain, that as early as Henry the Second’s reign, this was the site of the castle of the Norman lords of Hallamshire, and it is the only stone foundation on which it is likely such an edifice would rest. s - The possessions of De Busli seem to have been very extensive in many parts of England, and from that family the manor of Sheffield passed to the house of De Lovetot, but at what period it does not appear. - The De Lovetots evinced great partiality for this portion of their possessions. They selected it from amongst all their Yorkshire estates in which to fix their residence, and from that period may be dated the beginning of an advancement of BOOK WI. Manors. Family of De Busli. De Love- tot. * The whole number of manors included in his fee amounted to forty-six in Yorkshire, eighty-six in Nottinghamshire, besides many in Derbyshire, Leicestershire, and Devonshire. - + “Few of these aulae are mentioned in Domesday book; and where they do appear, they are commonly found in the manors possessed by the prime Saxon nobility. One other is found in the wapentake of Strafford. It was at Laughton en le Morthen, where its foundations may still be traced ; and its Saxon proprietor was Edwin, earl of Mercia. They were the courts and the places of residence of the persons to whom they belonged, and doubtless as much superior to any ordinary manor-house, as is the mansion of a modern nobleman to the edifices which now bear that name.”—Hunter, p. 87. † Picture of Sheffield, 1824, p. 16. THE COUNTY OF YORK. : 7 the interests of the town of Sheffield, which they seem to have studied to promote. Indeed the administration of this potent house seems to have been principally directed to advance the general good. - As well as establishing a church, they founded an hospital, which stood on the east side of the town, on an eminence, still called the Spital hill, which continued to afford relief to the poor of. Sheffield until the days of Henry VIII., who demolished so many of the benevolent institutions of that age. To them also the town owed the great convenience of a bridge over the Don, called Lady's bridge, and a corn- mill, in addition to other advantages which their residence at the castle secured to it. The town at this time consisted of a few straggling cottages and workshops, reaching from the castle to the church, with a few houses towards the river, and perhaps a branch forming what is now named Fargate. The male line of the De Lovetots terminated in the reign of Henry II. By the death of William de Lovetot, second lord of Hallamshire, he left an only daughter, Maud, of tender years, and a ward of Henry. She was heiress to large possessions, and, through her mother, nearly allied to the great house of Clare. Richard, the son and successor of Henry, was left with the disposal of her hand, and he selected the son of one of his companions in arms, Gerard de Furnival, a young Norman knight, by which alliance the lordship of Sheffield was transferred to that family. The name of Furnival was derived from a place in Normandy, called Fernefal. This was their hereditary seat; but it seems to have been deserted by them when they had acquired the houses and lands of the De Lovetots.” Several members of this noble family were summoned to parliament, and Gerard, the second, attached himself to the interest of King John, from whom there is a tradition that he had the honour of a visit at his castle at Sheffield. After the death of this monarch, De Furnival engaged in one of the expeditions to Palestine, and closed a short but eventful life at Jerusalem, in the year 1219, leaving three sons and four daughters. His wife survived him many years, and from that time constantly used her maiden name. Thomas de Furnival, eldest son and heir, was slain in Palestine, in 1237. He was succeeded by Gerard, who died, leaving no issue. During the possession of Sheffield by the second Thomas de Furnival, brother to the last lord, the original castle was rebuilt, or a new structure raised on its site, by virtue of a charter obtained from King Henry III. in the fifty-fourth year of his reign. The castle contained a chapel, and two chaplains and a clerk were kept for administering religious services. Thomas de Furnival did not long survive the completion of his castle, and he was succeeded by a son of his own name, from whom Sheffield derived a greater accession of interest than from any other member of his house. * Pigot's Met. Chron. CHAP. I. De Furni- val. 8 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. On the 12th of November, 1296, Thomas Lord Furnival obtained a charter from the king for establishing a market to be held every Tuesday, at Sheffield, and a fair to be held every year on the vigil, day, or morrow of the Holy Trinity, unless they should be found to injure the markets and fairs in the neighbourhood, which it would appear was not the case, as such market and fair have been continued to the present day, with the alteration of the time of the fair to the Tuesday following Trinity Sunday. N In the year 1297, he granted to the town a charter, which is very justly esteemed the magna charta of the town. The objects comprehended in this charter were, first, to annul those degrading services by which the inhabitants held their tene- ments of him, and to substitute a stated annual payment in money. The sum fixed was £3. 8s. 94d. for the whole town, which continued to be paid for a considerable time under the designation of the burgery rents; when money became depreciated and labour advanced, its collection was discontinued. Secondly : the charter stipulated for the proper dispensation of municipal justice, by reviving the court baron, which it declared should be held every three weeks, as formerly, And lastly, that the inhabitants of Sheffield should be free from all exaction of toll throughout the entire district of Hallamshire, whether they were vendors or pur- chasers. - - Besides these important favours bestowed upon the town of Sheffield, he was not unmindful of his tenantry in the more remote parts of the parish. To them also he granted a charter, giving them great privileges for the maintenance of them- selves and their cattle. In the latter years of his life, he entered into an extensive agreement with the monks of Worksop, by which, amongst other matters, he exchanged the tithes of his manor of Sheffield for an annual rent in money. This great benefactor to Hallamshire died the day after the feast of the Purification, (3d February,) 1332, and was interred in the church of the barefooted friars, at Doncaster. Three more Lords Furnival possessed the manor of Sheffield down to a period fifty years later than this, viz. Thomas Lord Furnival, who married Joan, eldest daughter and co-heir of Theobald de Verdon, a great baron in Staf. fordshire, and died pridie Id. October (14th) 1339, and was buried in the abbey of Beauchief. Thomas, surnamed the hasty, succeeded his father as son and heir. He was at the battle of Cressy, in the twentieth of Edward III. 1341, and died without issue in 1366. His brother William succeeded, and was the last lord of Hallamshire of this house. He was born at the castle of Alton, in Staffordshire, his mother's inheritance, 10 cal. Sep. (22d) 1326, and died without male issue April 12, 1383. He left an only daughter, who married Sir Thomas Nevil, who died in 1406. They also left one child, a daughter, named Maud, who gave her hand to John Talbot, afterwards earl of Shrewsbury. By this alliance, Hallam- T H E COUNTY OF YORK. 9 shire became the possession of a still more noble family than any that had yet been CHAP. i. the lords of its soil.” At this time Sheffield had acquired considerable reputation for the manufacture of certain articles of cutlery, particularly for the thwytel or whittle, a kind of knife which was carried about the person in those days, by such as were not entitled to wear a sword. Chaucer, describing the accoutrements and appearance of a miller, in the reign of Edward III., thus notices this knife: A Shefeld thwytel bare he in his hose, Ronde was his face and camysed was his nose.t If we judge from the fact, that many of the inhabitants made considerable voluntary contributions, at this period, for the maintenance of priests to assist in the per- formance of religious duties, as well as for the relief of the poor, the construction and repair of roads and bridges, and for other public purposes, we may safely conclude that the benefit of commerce had been felt in Sheffield before the close of the fourteenth century. The first of the noble house of Talbot who owned the property of Hallamshire Talbot. was a soldier and statesman of considerable reputation. He was called to parlia- ment in 1410, by the title of John Talbot Lord Furnival. In 1412 he was appointed lord justice of Ireland. In the next year, the first of the reign of Henry V., he was committed to the Tower; but was soon liberated, and again made viceroy of Ireland, where he remained during five years of danger and difficulty, administering the affairs of that island with acknowledged skill. He next performed many public services for his sovereign in France. In 1422, Henry V. died, and a new reign opened upon him with fresh honours. He was admitted into the order of the garter, and was reinstated in the government of Ireland in 1425; but his services being called for in France, where his name had already become terrible to the French by his valorous deeds, the command of the whole English army in that king- dom was given to him. He had there to contend with the renowned Maid of Orleans, and in 1429 his army was routed at Patay, and he himself made prisoner. He was not released without much difficulty, nor until he had suffered an imprison- ment of three or four years...}. He was again instantly in arms, and joined the duke * Hunter's Hallamshire, p 31. + The Reve's Tale. f There seems to have been something of the nature of a private subscription through the kingdom, for the redemption of a captive who was thought so great a national loss. “1429. Thomas Paynell, mayor. Hit is to have in mynd, that for the rawnsome of the Lorde Talbote, the gode men of the citie of Coventrie hav gyven to his rawnsome with all ther gode hertes.” To this in some public accounts of the city of Coventry is appended a list of twenty-seven persons, with the sums subscribed by each, amounting in the whole to £13. 6s. 8d.—Gent. Mag. lxi. p. 999. VOL. III. D 10 HISTORY OF of Bedford at Paris, and, as a reward for his services, he was, in 1442, created earl of Shrewsbury. After several years more of active duty, he was killed at the battle of Chatillon, on the 20th of July, 1453; his son John Talbot, Wiscount Lisle, sharing the same fate with his valorous father. The second earl of Shrewsbury was a much less conspicuous character than his father. He was a military man, and slain at the battle of Northampton on the 10th of July, 1460, and was interred at Worksop. John, the third earl, was more attached to literature and the muses than to politics and arms; yet he was not able in those days of turmoil to pursue his studies unmolested. We even find him in the second battle of St. Alban's, at the early age of 14; but after encountering a few more of the troubles of those times, he died in the flower of life at Coventry, in 1473, aged twenty-five. He had married Catha- rine, daughter of Humphrey, duke of Buckingham, and sister to Henry, duke of Buckingham, who was beheaded at Salisbury in the time of Richard III., by whom he had two sons, George his successor, and Thomas, who died in childhood.* *-x George, the fourth earl of Shrewsbury, was only four years old when he became lord of Sheffield and Hallamshire. He soon evinced a desire to improve his pro- perty by building ; and as hitherto there had been no other mansion at Sheffield but the castle, he set about erecting a noble country residence in the centre of his park, a most beautiful and retired spot, about two miles from the town. This edifice was completed in the early part of the reign of Henry VIII., and was furnished in a style of splendour befitting the rank of its owner. It was sometimes called the lodge, and at other times Sheffield manor; its ruins, the last tower of which fell about eight years ago, bear the name of the manor or manor-house, to this. day. This earl, who was a knight of the garter, was called to the privy council by his sovereign, Henry VIII., and was made steward of his household early in his reign. In 1513 he was at the siege of Terouenne; and in 1520 he was present at the memorable interview between the kings of England and France in the Champ de drap d'or. Cardinal Wolsey was at this time in the zenith of glory and power; but his haughty and insolent demeanour to the nobility, who, under more conciliatory mea- sures, would have been with difficulty reconciled to his rapid elevation from the humble condition of a butcher's son to be second only to his sovereign in splendour and authority, as well as his overbearing conduct to every man who was so unfor- tunate as to be near him, began to show its consequences in the year 1530. Sheffield was one of the places which witnessed the abasement of this celebrated BOOK WI. * Hunter, p. 47. THE county of York. | 1 prelate, and the circumstances we have here to relate strikingly exemplify the words which the immortal Shakspeare has attributed to him : “Oh, how wretched Is that poor man that hangs on princes’ favours 1 * > The earl of Northumberland, son-in-law to the earl of Shrewsbury, was despatched to arrest him at Cawood, in this county, with orders to deliver him to the custody of the earl of Shrewsbury at the manor. They left Cawood on Sunday, November 6, 1530, and passing through Pontefract and Doncaster, reached Sheffield manor on the 8th, where he was received with great courteousness; the earl, his countess, and all the household standing without the gates to welcome his arrival. He remained at the manor sixteen days in a state of excessive melancholy, notwith- standing the kindness of the earl and his family, who treated him more as a guest than a prisoner. Cavendish, his gentleman usher, has given us the following particulars of this occurrence: “When he alighted, the earl receaved him with muche honour, and embraced my Lorde, sayeing these wordes: ‘My Lorde,’ quoth he, ‘your Grace is moste heartelye welcome unto me, and I ame glade to see youe here in my poore lodge, where I have longe desired to see youe, and muche more gladder if ye had come after another sorte.” ‘Ah my gentle Lorde of Shrewsburie, quoth my Lorde, ‘I heartilye thank youe, and although I have cause to lament, yet as a faithful harte maye I doe rejoice, that my chaunce is to come into the custodie of so noble a person, whose approved honour and wisdome hath alwaies bene right well knowne to all noble estats. And, Sir, howsoever myne accusers have used their accusacons againste me, this I knowe, and so before your Lordshipp and all the worlde I doe proteste, that my demeanor and proceeding have alwaies bene bothe juste and loyall towards my sov’raigne and liege Lorde, of whose usage in his grace's affairs your Lordshipp hathe hadd good experience. And even accordinge to my truthe, so I beseeche God help me.’” After the earl of Shrewsbury had expressed his belief of the truth of the protestation, and the usual salutations had been interchanged, they walked arm in arm to the Cardinal's apartments. His dejection increased daily, and although the earl exerted himself to afford him comfort, “ yet he would lament so pitiouslie y' it woulde make my Lorde of Shrewsburie to be very heavie for his grefe.” He had not been above a week at the manor when he was seized with an attack of dysentery, and his medical attendant predicted that he would not survive many days. Sir William Kingston, lieutenant of the Tower, arrived a few days afterwards with a guard to convey the cardinal to London, for trial, and notwithstanding his severe illness he was hurried on his road mounted on a mule ! He slept the first night after his departure at Hardwicke hall, the next at Nottingham, and on the CHAP. I. 12 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Fifth earl of Shrews- bury. third, he reached Leicester abbey. He had suffered much from the disorder on the road, and became so weak as scarcely to be able to sit upon his mule. He was received at Leicester abbey with great respect by the abbot and all his con- vent, — “ To whome my Lorde saide, “Father Abbot, I am come hether to leave my bones amonge you,” or as Shakspeare says of him, “O, Father Abbot I An old man, broken with the storms of state, Is come to lay his weary bones among you ; Give him a little earth for charity.” This was on the night of Saturday, and his illness was protracted but two days longer; he expired on the Monday following. Thus died, wretched and forsaken, Cardinal Wolsey; a man who had risen from comparative insignificance to direct the councils of his sovereign, to whom even kings showed a courtesy seldom exceeded between themselves; but whose pride and insolence hurled him from the eminence he had attained, and showed him the insecurity of a station unworthily obtained and unbecomingly supported; a station combining in itself the inconsistencies of ecclesiastical and political rank, and held at the will of a capricious monarch. The earl of Shrewsbury was now far advanced in years. He made his will on the 21st of August, 1537, directing that his body should be laid in the parish church of Sheffield, near Ann his first countess, and departed this life on the 26th of July, 1538, at Winfield manor, in Derbyshire. A sepulchral chapel had been erected in or adjoining the parish church, in which his first wife was interred; and his funeral was solemnized here in the month of March following his decease. Francis, the fifth earl of Shrewsbury, was born at Sheffield castle, in 1500. He seems to have been held in much esteem by Henry VIII, who engaged him in many active and important services. He was created lord president of the north, and was one of the thirteen mourners at his funeral. He held appointments under Edward VI. ; and was one of the chief mourners at his funeral also. He likewise held many important offices during the reign of Mary. His religious bias appears in his acceptance of the commission in the first year of that reign, to inquire by what authority Bonner had been deprived of the bishoprick of London. He had an office at the queen's coronation, and was high in favour at her court. He availed himself of his interest there to do an act of kindness, not to say of justice, to his tenantry and neighbours at Sheffield. In the late reign they had been deprived of certain public property, under pretence that the uses to which the income from it had been appropriated, came within the scope of the act of Ed- ward VI., for the suppression of chantries, colleges, and guilds. Of this he obtained for them restitution, and at the same time a royal patent, declaring the future uses THE COUNTY OF YORK. 13 of the income of that property, and constituting it a body corporate for its manage- ment and better protection.” He was now to witness the accession of a fourth sovereign in the person of Elizabeth, and was admitted to her privy council, and continued in his high office of lord president; but he died two years afterwards, and was buried t in the vault prepared by his father at Sheffield. George, the sixth earl of Shrewsbury, had been engaged in the border wars in his youth, and was taking an active part in the administration of Elizabeth, being one of her privy council, when he succeeded to the great estates of his family. This nobleman had not been long in possession of the family property, before he was engaged in a serious dispute with the freeholders and copyholders of Hal- lamshire. Lords of manors had, in early times, been accustomed to receive what were called aids or benevolences from their tenants, in cases of extraordinary emergency, such as when they were taken prisoner by the public enemy, when the heir was to be made a knight, or the eldest daughter to be portioned in mar- riage. What were originally voluntary offerings, came at length, through long usage, to be claimed as a right. The custom which had formerly existed at Sheffield had been allowed to grow obsolete: so that when the earl demanded an aid, being about to marry his eldest daughter to the earl of Pembroke, the tenants demurred; but the earl of Shrewsbury was resolute, and the refractory tenants soon after sub- mitted, as appears by the following paper :- Com. Ebor. Nott. T A brieve note of the benevolence receyved by Edward Hatefylde, et Derb. } of my lorde's offices and tenants within the said counties, geven unto his lordshepe, towardes the mariage of the lady Katherne, his eldist doughter, anno regin Die Elizabethe regnie quinto; as particularlie appereth by a booke made of the same, 1563. Sothey ..... a s e s is e s m e s w is is is a e a s is a s s m is © tº a tº s is a e s e s p s is a m = e e 23 16 6 Bradfeld. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 10 8 Ecclesfeld ....... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 8 7 Sheffeld................. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 4 0 Sheffeld Parke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 7, 2 Whiston.... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ... • - - - - - - - - - 16 J 9 2 Treton et aliis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ... 18 8 I Terr, foren. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 8 .3 Chesterfeld ....................... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . J 1 9 6 Dronfyld Gyld . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 IB I Totley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . … ... I 16 7 Plesley . . . . . . . . . . . . • . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 13 10 * Hunter, p. 55. -- - • * In Peck's Desiderata Curiosa is a long account of the funeral of this earl, from a MS. formerly in the possession of Peter le Neve, Esq. It is also printed in Hunter's Hallamshire, p. 56. WOL. III. E CHAP. I. Sixth earl of Shrews - bury. 14 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Gleydleys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 13 4 Rotherham. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 5 4 Kymbreworth. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 || || 8 Bolsterston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 17 0 Workesop cum membr... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 12 8 Rufford et aliis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . nihil. Spondon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . nihil. Wynfeld et aliis. . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W e e o e s is e s e e s e s e nihil. Kerbywodhous . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . nihil. Chauntre de Monyst. Longsdon, and Helmdon, Pyllesbury, and Croukeston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 2 I Total . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 17 6% These absurd claims were abolished by an act of parliament, passed immediately after the restoration.* - ... " In the latter part of the year 1568 the earl was in London, and there learned that a severe duty had been prepared for him by his sovereign. His loyalty was Has the about to be put to extreme trial; for to him Elizabeth had determined to confide º * the custody of the young, accomplished, and engaging, the oppressed and unhappy §. of queen of Scotland, and presumptive heir to the crown of England, who, in this year, had been forced, by dissensions at home, to throw herself on the protection of her kinswoman the queen of England. With the affecting story of this oppressed and unhappy lady the history of Sheffield has become associated for a period of twelve years. It is impossible, in commencing our brief detail of her incarceration at this place, to resist the feel- ings of pity for her sufferings, and indignation for the heart that could devise them; whether we consider her guilty or innocent of the charges attributed to her. Her beauty, her rank, her learning, her talents, her many accomplishments give a high interest to her misfortunes, and may seem to excite a feeling in her favour, which alone can induce us to advocate her cause ; but in any individual similar sufferings are severe and afflicting : and with prince or peasant equally trying is “That sickness of the heart which arises from hope deferred.” Touching indeed is that lament which the bard of her country has written for her : f “Now blooms the lily by the bank, The primrose down the brae; The hawthorn's budding in the glen And milke white is the slae: * Lodge, vol. i. p. 348. + Twelfth Charles II. Hunter, p. 62. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 15 The meanest hind in fair Scotland May rove these sweets amang, But I the Queen of a Scotland Maun lie in prison strang.”— Her generous reliance on the sympathy, if not the affection or the justice of her kinswoman, the queen of England, for protection, met with a return that was at once cruel and unmerited; and as her country’s poet has continued, we may justly charge it upon Elizabeth in this treatment of her helpless cousin : “The weeping?blood in woman's breast Was never known to thee; Nor the balm that drops on wounds of woe, Fra woman's pitying e'e.” " Mary, queen of Scots, escaped from the castle of Lochleven, and landed at Workington, in Cumberland, on the 17th of May, 1568, and lost no time in address- ing a respectful letter to Elizabeth, to implore her protection. Elizabeth imme- diately despatched Sir Francis Knollys to attend her, and she was soon afterwards placed in confinement in the castle of Lord Scrope, warden of the west marches, at Bolton. She was moved from this asylum, on the 2d of February following, to the castle of Tutbury, in Staffordshire, a seat of the earl of Shrewsbury's, to whose custody Elizabeth had assigned her, much against the inclination of the earl, who seems to have considered the trust as dangerous and irksome, yet did not dare to oppose the will of his imperious mistress. Here Mary of Scotland received many mortifications, and the earl of Shrewsbury many instances of that suspicion which is ever allied to unprincipled acts, from the hands of Elizabeth. The ill state of the earl’s health obliged him to leave his charge for a short time to take the benefit of the waters at Buxton, for which he received a severe reprimand from Elizabeth, who availed herself of this circumstance as an excuse for placing the earl of Hunt- ingdon in his house, as an additional guard upon Mary, and a spy upon Shrews- CHAP. I. Escape from Loch- leven. bury. Mary had an avowed dread of and dislike to this nobleman, and such an appointment, attended with other vexatious orders and restrictions of her comforts, was but the commencement of those persecutions she was doomed to endure. She was removed to Sheffield castle in 1570. Here she was subject to more rigorous confinement than before, and an attempt to relieve her, in which Thomas duke of Norfolk was detected, gave a colouring to still stricter orders from Elizabeth. . - The earl of Shrewsbury presided as high steward at the trial of this unfortunate duke of Norfolk, and it fell to his painful lot to pronounce the sentence of death upon him. - a. * Picture of Sheffield, p. 34. Imprison- ed in Shef- field castle. 16 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Removed to the ma- nor house. It may here be remarked, that it was little imagined on this occasion that a grandson of this nobleman whom Shrewsbury had condemned to the scaffold, would afterwards become the inheritor of that very castle in which the unfortunate cause of the duke's misfortunes was imprisoned, by an alliance with Shrewsbury's granddaughter. - - , . . . . . . l Mary was removed from Sheffield castle to the manor house shortly after this, and Wą.S kept under the same cruel restrictions as before; “ good numbers of men, continually armed, watched her day and night, and both under her windows, over her chamber, and of every syde her, so that unless she could transforme herselfe to a fly or a mouse, it was impossible that she should 'scape.” - Shrewsbury's natural kindness became totally dissipated, by the suspicions which any lenity shown to his prisoner invariably created with Elizabeth, and the manner in which he felt compelled to treat the wretched victim of this unrelenting queen, deeply injured her health, and destroyed all the little mitigations of her sufferings which her own cheerful disposition and the intercourse with her favourite attendants might have afforded her. She frequently complained of her barbarous treatment, but in vain. “Without fresh air,” she says, “not allowed necessary exercise, she had become so weak that she was obliged to be carried by her servants when she would pass from room to room.” - By the repeated intercession of foreign ambassadors she obtained permission to visit Buxton occasionally ; but this was not done without the strictest precautions to secure the continuance of her miserable captivity. These visits were very short. She returned to the manor, and spent her days in the most unhappy and mysterious seclusion. Her time was principally occupied in needle work; but she was a proficient in a variety of the highest accomplishments, and poetry and music were her frequent amusements. She left Sheffield in 1584, and was taken to Winfield, and from thence to her old prison at Tutbury. From Tutbury she was removed in 1586, to Chartley, and from thence to Fotheringay, where she was beheaded on the 8th of February, 1587, evincing in her last moments all the fortitude and resignation of a martyr.” . . . . . . . h Thus perished the unfortunate Mary, a victim to the jealousy and hatred of the tyrannical Elizabeth, rather than to the demand of justice. The following beautiful and appropriate lines are rendered of deep interest from the circumstance of their being the effusion of an accomplished and amiable young lady born on the spot. ‘f -> - Leaves Sheffield. Beheaded. * Picture of Sheffield, p. 39. , ºr + Miss Roberts, of Park Grange, author of the poetical part of the “Royal Exile.” ‘ūy THE COUNTY OF YORK. - 17 “Well, rest to thine ashes, thou beautiful one ! To a deep secret chamber thy relics are gone ; The pow'r that was hated for ever is o'er ; The lips that have anger'd can anger no more ; The charms that were envied for ever retire ; — Oh with them let slander and hatred expire. O'er the grave be no banners triumphantly spread; Let the voice of reproaches disturb not the dead; But, child of misfortune, the tear be thine own, That springs from the heart where misfortune is known. Let beauty bend low o'er a beauty more bright, Which fate unpropitious so early could blight, Let youth o'er thy grave heave a sigh on her way, Who to anguish and suffering in youth wert a prey ; º And the nymphs and the Naiads who flit round yon seat, The home of thy sorrows, their favourite retreat; * Oh, still let them linger to grace the wild scene, And hallow the region where MARY has been. The earl of Shrewsbury returned to the manor in the year 1585, and shortly afterwards built for himself the splendid monument in the church of Sheffield which still remains. He died here on the 18th of November, 1590, and was suc- ceeded by his son Gilbert. - This nobleman, the seventh earl of his line, was born on the 20th of November, 1553; the greater part of his life was embittered by violent dissensions in his own family, and amongst the neighbouring gentry and his tenants, but he was admitted to honours and distinction by his queen, and employed in many public services. The profuse mode of his living, rather than the superiority of his talents, or the peculiar eminence of the stations he attained, obtained for him the title of the great and glorious earl of Shrewsbury. He sat upon the trial of the earl of Essex, in 1600; and on the queen’s death, in 1603, he signed the pro- clamation of King James, and had the honour to entertain that monarch at his house at Worksop, on his road from Edinburgh to ascend the English throne. The earl did not receive honours or employment from King James, with the exception of his being retained in the privy council. He died in London, on the 8th of May, 1616, and was buried in the vault at Sheffield. This earl was the last of the male line of the house of Talbot who inherited the estates of Hallamshire. . The lady Alethea Talbot, youngest daughter and co-heiress of the last earl of Shrewsbury, married, in 1606, Thomas Howard, earl of Arundel and Surrey, earl marshal of England, the only son of Philip, earl of Arundel, who died CHAP. i. * Sheffield Manor House. VOL. III. F Seventh earl of Shrews- bury. Earl of Arundel. 18 HISTORY OF ë BOOK WI. Civil war. in prison in the reign of Elizabeth. This earl presented to an effeminate court a pattern of primitive nobility; a liberal encourager of the arts, he spared neither expense nor trouble in procuring specimens of ancient art for those who could not visit the countries which produced them. By this alliance the property was trans- ferred to the illustrious family of the Howards, by which it is possessed to this day. The town of Sheffield was at this time a manufacturing place of considerable importance, as well as the seat of an ancient family of the nobility, surrounded by their extensive domain, a connexion too anomalous to continue long; the dirt and smoke of the forges being ill suited to the taste of a nobleman whose pleasures would be calculated to throw no few obstructions in the way of commercial enter- prise. The earl of Arundel did not, like the former inheritors of this district, reside upon his Hallamshire property, but continued at his seat at Arundel, in Sussex, until the commencement of the civil wars in the reign of Charles I., when he retired to Italy, where he died in 1546. Sheffield now became the scene of war. The mighty conflicts between Charles I. and his parliament were commenced, and the people of Sheffield were zealously alive to the question. The town and neighbourhood are represented as being much disaffected to the king; great numbers joined the standards of the parliamentarians, and General Sir John Gell marched in from Derbyshire with the army of the parliament, and took military possession of the town and castle. One of the first acts of hostility in the neighbourhood of this town was an attack upon the house of Sir Edward Rodes, a zealous parliamentarian, at Great Houghton. This was made by Captain Grey, a Northumberland gentleman, at the head of three hundred dragoons. Instantly the whole of the wapentake of Strafforth and Tickhill was in arms, Rotherham Moor being the place of rendezvous. “Though to this worthy knight,” say the diurnals, in an article from York, dated Sept. 19, 1642, “it is a sad accident, yet it has put courage into our West riding; for on a sudden 1500 men were in arms to take these cavaliers on their march; but they got notice of it, and escaped by night to Mansfield, in Nottinghamshire. Lord Fairfax, Sir John Savile, of Lupset, and Sir William Lister, of Thornton, in Craven, are so moved at this, that it will prove advantageous to the country; for they will have 5000 men armed in a few days, and have sent to Sir John Hotham for 1000 foot, one troop of horse, twelve barrels of powder, one ton of match, and other necessaries; being resolved to have satisfaction out of the malignants of the county, or die for it. The suffering these Northumberland rogues to pass through the county hath taught us wit, and it is resolved no more shall come this way.” + The earl of Newcastle, at the head of 8000 men, also entered Yorkshire by a * Hunter's Hallamshire, p. 105. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 19 different direction, and proceeded as far as York. Finding it already well defended, he advanced southward, where the people were more generally in favour of the parliament; and after placing garrisons at the various towns on his road, he reached Wakefield, where a garrison had been stationed by Lord Fairfax, the com- mander of the parliament army; but it soon surrendered, and the earl of Newcastle made the town the head quarters of his army. He continued to march southward with a strong body of troops. Rotherham was in possession of the enemy, and refusing to yield, he commenced an attack upon it and took it by storm. He then marched to Sheffield, and such was the panic he occasioned, that the parlia- mentarians quitted both the town and castle with the utmost precipitation, and fled into Derbyshire. The people of Sheffield were most of them reduced to their allegiance, and many joined the royal army, a part of which was placed as a garrison in the castle under the command of Sir William Savile, who was soon called into more active service, and Major Thomas Beaumont, of the ancient family of that name, of Whitely hall, appointed deputy governor of the town and castle. The remainder of the royal army returned to York, and Major Beaumont retained possession of the town and castle of Sheffield until after the battle of Marston Moor, near York, on the 2d of July, 1644, when the parliament army, under the earl of Manchester, obtained a complete victory, and the earl of Newcastle hastily left the kingdom. On the 1st of August following, the earl of Manchester despatched Major Crawford and Colonel Pickering, with an army of 12,000 infantry, to attack the castle of Sheffield. A summons was sent to Major Beaumont, requiring him to surrender; but receiving an insulting reply, the parliamentarians entered the town, and instantly commenced erecting batteries within sixty yards of the outworks, and kept their cannon playing upon the fortress for twenty-four hours, without making any visible impression. Finding that the siege was likely to be protracted, they made application to Lord Fairfax for more effective cannon, who sent them a large field- piece, called the “Queen's pocket pistol,” from which such a heavy fire was poured upon the castle, that the garrison was obliged to capitulate on the 10th of August, 1644. The castle was afterwards demolished, by order of parliament, in 1646, but the work of destruction did not begin till 1648. The heads of the house of Howard espoused the cause of King Charles in this internal warfare, and having retired to the continent before its termination, their estates at Sheffield were seized by order of the parliament, but restored to the earl of Arundel in November, 1648, on payment of £6000 as a composition. The castle was not so much destroyed as to exclude all hope of its being restored to an habitable state, and the earl soon afterwards ordered its repair to be commenced; but it proved a fruitless task, its walls were never reared again, CHAP. I. Sheffield surrender- ed to the king. The town retaken by the parlia- mentarians Castle de- stroyed. 20 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Manor dis- mantled. Forests. and scarcely any vestiges of it now remain; but the vaults, and many of the large stones were preserved, and form portions of buildings in Sheffield at the present time. - The place where this noble edifice stood is called Castle hill ; and Castle green, Castle orchards, and Castle ditch, are still the names of places in its neigh- bourhood. - The manor did not suffer the slightest injury in the late hostilities; indeed it does not appear to have been a military station of either party. It continued an occasional residence of its noble owner, and the constant abode of his agent for nearly half a century after the demolition of the castle; but in the year 1706 Thomas, duke of Norfolk, ordered it to be dismantled, and its furniture to be removed, articles of which are still preserved in some of the old houses in the neighbourhood. The park then became no longer necessary, and it was divided into farms. It still retains its ancient name, “ The Park,” and even where it is built upon, forming a little town of itself, separated from Sheffield by the river Sheaf, Sheffield park is the only name by which it is known to this day; reluctant, it would seem, to part with that title which calls to mind its former magnificence. Sheffield had to this time been surrounded by immense forests; but the removal of its lord from the soil, and the rapid improvement of its manufactures, created that spirit of innovation which is not yet at an end. Fullwood and Riveling, as well as the park, were rich in stately forest trees, which had outlived many generations, and witnessed their transfer from lord to lord, themselves retaining all their native beauty and vigour; but these places were now to be deprived of all, their sylvan honours. The destruction of the growth of centuries needs not much time to accomplish, and those stately trees which had proudly waved their heads almost as long as Hallamshire had been a name, soon became the dissected stock of the carpenter, or the handles of those tools which were designed to carry on the work of spoliation.* * “The fall, at this period, of two venerable oaks,” says Mr. Hunter, “must have been viewed with sensations of more than ordinary regret. Their wonderful magnitude made them the pride of the forest; and their age, having outlasted many generations and some races of the chiefs whose estate they had adorned, themselves still flourishing and vigorous, commanded for them a respect not unallied to religious feeling. They stood on different parts of the domain : the one on the conduit plain within Sheffield park. Evelyn was informed that this oak stretched its arms on all sides, to the distance of forty-five feet or more from the trunk; and was therefore capable of affording shelter to above 'two hundred horsemen. The other stood, as Evelyn informs us, at the upper end of Riveling, perhaps on the very spot where the towers of the Saxon Waltheof had appeared before they felt the power of an umpitying conqueror. Either for its gigantic appearance, or owing to some tradition respecting it, not now to be recovered, it had acquired the name of ‘the lord’s oak.' Its bole was twelve yards in girth, exceeding the famous Greendale oak, in Welbeck park, by three feet: and when it was cut down THE COUNTY OF YORK. 21 From the time of the removal of the lord of the manor of Sheffield, it did not make any rapid advance in commercial consequence until the commencement of the eighteenth century. Many causes may be assigned for this, but the principal are the small capitals which the manufacturers possessed, the restrictions by which the trade was encumbered, and the difficulty of communicating with the metropolis, as well as the two ports of Liverpool and Hull, the only mode of conveying the pro- duce of their labours being by pack-horses along roads almost impassable. The following interesting document, copies of which are possessed by many per- sons at this time, will show the wretched state of the town of Sheffield early in the seventeenth century. - g “By a survaie of the towne of Sheffield made the second daie of Januarie, 1615, by twenty-four of the most sufficient inhabitants there, it appeareth that there are in the towne of Sheffield 2207 people, of which there are - 725 which are not able to live without the charity of their neighbours. These are all begging poore. - 100 householders which relieve others. These (though the best sorte) are but poor artificers; amonge them there is not one which can keep a teame on his own lande, and not above ten who have grounds of their owne that will keepe a cowe. its top or branches yielded not less than twenty-one cords of wood. This king of the forests was felled in 1690.” £ 6 Pursuing still the theme, He marks the spot where once in grandeur stood The lordly oak, sole monarch of the solitude. Amidst the silence and the loneliness Of that dark valley where no leaf appears, He stood the sovereign of the wilderness, And flourished greenly, and without compeers In strength and beauty, and adorned by years : The earth his footstool--heaven his canopy— No Druid’s rites he saw, no victim's tears ; But widely there his giant arm unfurl’d, His green and bloodless banner o’er a peaceful world. Planted by him who waved the vengeful sword Of conquering William's desolating ire, A wrath the Saxon long in vain deplored, Amidst thy city’s ruins, HALLAMSHIRE. And so it grew, unscathed by wind or fire, The red deer’s shelter, and the falcon's nest : Long waved it there, ev’n when the hoary sire. Told-how the hands for ages had been blent In kindred dust that rear'd that sylvan monument.” - W. H. S. WOL. III. - G l CHAP. I. Survey of Sheffield. 1615. 22 HISTORY OF Book VI. Cutlers in- corporated Increase of trade. 160 householders not able to relieve others. These are such (though they beg not) as are not able to abide the storme of one fortnight's sickness, but woulde be drawne thereby to beggary. - . 1222 children and servants of the said householders, the greatest part of which are such - - as live of small wages, and are constrained to work sore, to provide themselves necessaries.”” Such was the state of Sheffield at the commencement of the seventeenth century ! From this account it will be seen that it had much to do to attain even ordinary importance as a manufacturing town. The place was now rising into considerable notice, but the progress was very trifling until the commencement of the eighteenth century. The whittle or knife had hitherto been the chief, if not the only article manufactured; but scissors, shears, sickles, and sithes were now gradually added to these fabrics. , tº - - *. The powers of a lord of a manor in his court-leet are somewhat undefined. That he should interfere with the internal concerns of a manufacturing neighbourhood was a right founded only upon usage: and it is not improbable that among a people who have always been impatient of acquiescence in authorities that were questionable, there were some, -some among the fair dealers, and some among the fraudulent manufacturers, who were disposed to call in question the expediency and the authority of the ordinances. As long as there was the presence of the lord to support them, it might be easy to maintain their authority; but when that influence was withdrawn, it would become more necessary to place the ordinances upon a new and less questionable basis. As early as March, 1621, only four years after the death of Gilbert, earl of Shrewsbury, a bill was presented to parliament by Sir John Savile, entitled, “An Act for the good order and government of the makers of knives, scissors, shears, sickles, and other cutlery wares in Hal- lamshire, in the county of York, and parts adjoining.” This incorporation of the master manufacturers is called the Company of Cutlers in Hallamshire, of which we shall treat more fully hereafter. e - During the seventeenth century, which we are now about to close, Sheffield had made a greater increase in population and consequence than during any two cen- turies preceding; but she was still much behind in general improvement. The manufacturers did not venture to extend their connexions beyond their own country, and even here doing but a trifling business on their own account; not only the exports being made by London houses, but the home consumption principally supplied by them also ; the appellation of merchant, one who is concerned in the commercial department only, being a personage unknown in Sheffield at this time. * Hunter, p. 118. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 23 Little progress had likewise hitherto been made in those refinements and acqui- sitions which constitute the materials of good society. Literature was but little known, education but indifferently attended to, nor had religion produced those fruits of charity and benevolence which are now so conspicuous. There was no library, excepting a few books kept in the church vestry; and the principal place of amusement the castle bowling-green: there was no theatre, no assemblies, nor any of those amusements of a higher and more improving kind. What, we may ask, would be the astonishment of the first master cutler and company were they now to rise from their graves and behold the change which time has wrought in their successors? How great would be their amazement at the sight of luxuries of which they had never heard the name, and of accomplishments far above what were learnt even by the court of their good sovereign, King James, and the elegant and convenient habitations of their present descendants! . : - But with the commencement of the eighteenth century business improved. A new spirit of enterprise seemed to be awakened, and we are now about to enter upon the annals of those times which, though of less interest to the readers of general history, have great claims upon the attention of the inhabitants of Sheffield. The town at this time consisted of the following streets, lanes, and passages — High street, Fargate, Balm green, Hollin lane or Blind lane, Townhead street, Pinfold lane, Church lane, Ratten row, Broad lane, Red croft, Westbar, Westbar green, Scargill croft, Fig-tree lane, New street, Dixon lane, Shude hill, The Ponds, Jehu lane, Campo lane, Hartshead, Snighill, Irish Cross, Newhall street, Mill Sands, The Underwade, The Isle, Water lane, Castle green, Castle green Head, Castle fold, Castle hill, Waingate, Bullstake, Pudding lane * or King street, and True Love's gutter. - In the year 1700 a town-hall was erected at the south-east corner of the church- yard, where the town business was transacted and the sessions held. In the same year the first dissenting chapel was built, called the Upper Chapel, in Norfolk street, and in about ten years afterwards another meeting-house was erected, called the Nether Chapel. - About 1720 the town was very much improved. The great hinderance to the extension of the trade of Sheffield, arising from its inland position and its distance from London, was much felt, and a great desire was evinced at this period to effect a conveyance by water to some of the neighbouring sea-ports. The river Don, which afforded to the manufacturers such essential service in the preparation of their goods, was found capable of being made of additional conse- quence as a communication with the German ocean. This subject had engaged the attention of some persons unconnected with Sheffield as early as 1442. * For the meaning of this name; see Stowe's London, p. 212. CHAP. I. Extent of Sheffield. 24 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Don navi- gation. The earliest notice we have on record concerning the navigation of the river Don, is a petition presented to parliament in the twentieth year of Henry VI. (1442.) The commons of the counties of York, Lincoln, Nottingham, and Derby, presented to the king to wit, ‘That ther is, and of longe tyme hath been an usuall and a commune passage fro dyvers and many parties of the said countees, unto the citees of York, Hull, Hedon, Holderness, Beverley, Barton and Grymesby, and so forth, by the hie see, by the costes into London and elles where, with all maner of shippes charged with wolle, leed, stone, tymbre, vitaills, fewaille, and many othir marchandises, by a streme called the Dike, in the counte of York, that daiely ebbith and floweth; over which streem ys a brigge of tymbre called Turn-brigge, in the parisshe of Snaythe, in the same counte, so lowe, so ner the streem, so narrowe, and so strayte in the archees, that ther is, and of long tyme hath been, a right perilous passage, and ofte tymes perisshinge of dyvers shippes ; and atte every tyme of creteyne and abundance of water, ther may no shippees passe under the seid brigge, by the space of half a yere or more; to the great injury and incon- venience of the neighbourhood, as well as to the diminishing of the king's revenue. The petitioners, therefore, pray the parliament to beseech the king to grant, with the concurrence of parliament, licence to any persons of the said counties, to take down the said bridge, and to build another withe a moveable leaf in the centre for the passage of vessels, to prohibit persons from stopping the course of the stream by stones, or piles, or ‘any othir disceyte, and to confirm to the shipmen passing along the said river the right they had of old time enjoyed, of having towing paths on the banks of the said river. Which petition was accordingly presented by parlia- ment, and was granted by the king in all points.” In 1721 and 1722 the cutlers of Sheffield, in conjunction with the corporation of Doncaster, laid before the public a plan, proposing that the river should be made navigable for vessels of thirty tons burden as high as Doncaster, and from thence to Sheffield for vessels of twenty tons. This proposal met with many objections, and it was not until 1726 that an act was obtained, and this only authorised rendering the river navigable as far as Tinsley, three miles from Sheffield. This, however, was of great importance to the town, but many inferior obstacles arising to its accomplishment, the corporations of Sheffield and Doncaster were glad to get the business off their hands, and in 1732, their interests were transferred by act of parliament to the subscribers, under the name of “The Company of Proprietors of the navigation of the river Don.” The company consisted of the corporations of Sheffield and Doncaster, the town's trustees of Sheffield, and * Rolls of Parliament, 1442. 20 Hen. VI. vol. v. p. 44. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 25 sixty-six private individuals. The work was completed in 1751, enabling the traders of Sheffield to transport their merchandise to all parts of the world by a water conveyance from within a few miles of the town. In the year 1720 a new church was erected, and dedicated to St. Paul; but in consequence of some misunderstanding it was not consecrated and opened for public worship until 1740. The prosperity and wealth of the town continued rapidly to advance, and was considerably promoted about the middle of this century by the introduction of a new article of manufacture. Mr. Thomas Bolsover, an ingenious mechanic, being engaged in repairing the handle of a knife which was made of silver and copper, was CHAP. I. Church. Silver plating dis- covered. impressed with the idea that these two metals might be united so as to form a cheap substance which would present an exterior of silver, and of which articles might be fabricated in every respect equal in appearance to the most elegant pro- ductions of the superior metal. He established a manufactory of this material, but did not extend its application beyond small trifling articles, such as buttons, snuff boxes, &c.; but about sixteen years after this, it engaged the attention of Mr. Joseph Hancock, who commenced the manufacture of silver plated upon copper, on a very extensive scale, and applied it to a great variety of articles, such as tea urns, coffee pots, candlesticks, trays, cups, &c. which hitherto had only been made of wrought silver. The advantage of such an addition to the staple manufacture of the town may be readily conceived; many extensive concerns were rapidly established, and Shef- field may be said at this time to be as unrivalled in the manufacture of silver plate, as it is all over the world for its various articles of cutlery. The introduction of this article amongst the manufactures of Sheffield gave rise to another in imitation of plate, called Britannia metal, composed of tin, antimony, and lead, of which the same articles were made as the plated metal, and in which a very considerable home and export trade has been for many years carried on with success.” About the year 1758, a mill for the manufacture of silk was erected near the river Don, at the northern termination of the town, but this project failed, and the cotton spinning trade was afterwards pursued upon the same premises, though with little better success. This mill was burnt down in 1792; but its undaunted pro- prietors soon erected another upon the same site, which was also consumed a few years afterwards. These conflagrations, however, did not prevent another effort being made to establish the cotton trade in Sheffield; a third very large and com- modious building was soon completed, and the trade perseveringly pushed, but it * Picture of Sheffield, p. 58. WOL. III. H Britannia metal in- vented. Silk mill. 26 History of Book VI. made little progress, and was afterwards abandoned, as not being congenial to the soil. The tide of improvement continued to flow with still greater progress from the middle of this century. In 1750, Mr. James Broadbent first opened a direct trade with the continent from Sheffield, and thus set an example which has been most extensively and beneficially pursued, sending the name of Sheffield as a mart for cutlery into every quarter of the globe. The roads, which had hitherto been an insurmountable obstacle to the accom- plishment of a direct land communication with the metropolis, were now better attended to, and so considerably improved, that a stage-waggon was established from London to Sheffield, by Joshua Wright, of Mansfield. But another and greater accommodation next presented itself in the commencement of a stage-coach to London, in the year 1760, by Mr. Samuel Glanville, of the Angel inn. In 1765, the first coffee-room was opened by Mr. Holland, at the same inn. The trade, population, and buildings of the town continued to make a surpris- ing and pleasing progress. The good effect of a direct communication with the continent soon suggested the trial of America, and with this country likewise a most extensive and successful trade was established. : About the year 1760, a very great improvement was effected in the making or finishing of scissors. Mr. Robert Hinchcliffe, wishing to produce an article much superior in appearance to any then in use, as a present to a favourite young lady, had the honour of making the first pair of scissors hard polished; which valuable improvement has ever since that time been adopted by all manufacturers. To Mr. Hinchcliffe we are indebted also as the first maker of the left-handed scissors, an article suited to his own convenience. In the year 1770, the first bank was opened in Sheffield, by Mr. Roebuck, which the great increase of trade had rendered particularly desirable for the accom- modation of its merchants and manufacturers. New build. This rapid advancement of the consequence of the town produced corresponding ings in 1762. improvements in the manners and tastes of the inhabitants. In 1762, a handsome and extensive suite of rooms was erected for balls and assemblies, in Norfolk street, by a company of thirty subscribers, and shortly afterwards a theatre was attached to it upon an extensive scale. The shops became greatly increased both in number and variety, and presented an assortment of nearly every article of the luxury and fashion of the day. - 1 J The introduction of the manufacture of silver plated goods, had also occasioned silver plate to become an article of manufacture in Sheffield. To encourage this manufacture an act of parliament was obtained for the establishment of an assay office, which was opened in 1773. THE COUNTY OF York. 27 The improvement of the market-place was the next object to which public spirit was directed. The old market-place, which was only calculated for a very small proportion of the present population of the town, was felt as a great incon- venience, as well to the inhabitants at large as to the country people, who came to dispose of their produce ; and a petition was presented to the earl of Surrey, (afterwards duke of Norfolk) the owner of the market, praying him to improve that part of the town. This liberal and enlightened nobleman was very desirous to advance the prosperity of the town, and his lordship readily complied with the request. In 1784 he obtained an act of parliament for the purpose, which authorised the removal of the ancient shambles, stalls, and other erections connected with the market, as well as the old slaughter houses, which were then a source of much annoyance, being situate in the very centre of the town adjoining the shambles. The act also authorised the erection of another market-place in the same situation, the widening of the adjacent streets, and the removal of the beast market, (from the Bullstake, now called the Hay-market,) to a more convenient place. To effect such important alterations the earl was empowered to raise £11,000, by way of mortgage on the shops and standings in the new market-place about to be erected; and a clause was introduced into the act, enabling him to dispose of certain small chief rents, rents-service, rents-seck, and rents called Fridleys, which were payable to him as lord of the manor, out of certain copyhold and freehold estates in Hal- lamshire, being parcel of the castle, honour, manor, or lordship of Sheffield, or of any other manor or lordship which belonged to him, applying the purchase money to the projected improvements.” These important works were conducted under the management of a large body of the principal inhabitants, who were appointed commissioners for the purpose, and on the 31st of August, 1786, the present excellent suite of shambles, occupying the entire area of the market, was opened, to the great satisfaction of the inhabitants of the town. At this period, the ground betwixt Norfolk street and the river Sheaf was unen- cumbered with houses ; it was called Alsop-fields, and was the property of the earl of Surrey. A great disposition was shown to extend the town on this ground, and the earl readily granted building leases, from time to time, through the interference of his agent, Vincent Eyre, Esq. to whom the town is indebted for some of its most important improvements. This tract of land presents a very different appear- ance at this day, being covered with some of the best streets, bearing the family names and titles of its noble proprietor, such as Howard street, Surrey street, Arundel street, and a considerable one after his worthy steward, Eyre street. The taste for further improvement continued to be displayed towards the end * Hunter, p. 125. CHAP. I. Market- place im- proved. 28 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Popula- of the eighteenth century. Reservoirs were formed in the recesses of the mountains, and other works established for supplying the town with water—“ a great blessing when the coalpits have exhausted all the springs of the neighbourhood, and are daily in the habit of laying dry the wells and pumps.” In 1788, a new church was erected, by subscription, upon the glebe land belonging to the vicarage, according to act of parliament. From the commencement of the present century, Sheffield has been gradually increasing in population and trade ; and within the last few years several churches have been built, which add much to the elegant appearance of the town, and are pleasing specimens of parochial architecture. For an account of the charitable and literary institutions in this town, another and more advantageous opportunity will present itself; it is only necessary to add that Sheffield, like all the principal towns in the county, is irradiated by institutions founded for charitable purposes. We noticed, as we proceeded in the general history of Sheffield, the increase in its population, which ever keeps pace with the increase of trade and riches, and we again advert to it to show the number of inhabitants at various periods. The first authentic account of the population, we have shown, was in 1615, being at that time two thousand two hundred and seven inhabitants, of which number only two hundred and sixty were householders, and but one hundred able to relieve others. In 1736, the number was nine thousand six hundred and ninety-five, being an increase of seven thousand four hundred and eighty-eight, during the 17th century. In the succeeding twenty years, there was an increase of nearly three thousand; and in the next thirty, the population had doubled itself! - - The growing importance of Sheffield may be traced in the following statement of its population. - Population of the Town of Sheffield, from 1615 to 1821. A. D. Flouses. Males. Females. Total. I 615 © & & © ſº e º ſº e I e g º e g tº 2207 1736 2152 | . . . . . . . . . . . . 9695 1755 2667 . . . . . . . . . . . . 12,001 1788 6161 | . . . . . . . . . . . . 25,141 1796 7657 | . . . . . . . . . . . . 29,013 1801 7720 15,482 15,831 31,314 1811 7927 17,387 18,453 35,840 1821 10036 20,815 21,342 42,157 The population of the entire parish of Sheffield, in 1821, was sixty-five thousand two hundred and seventy-five. Thus we see, that during the last ten years, the population of the town has THE COUNTY OF YORK. 29 increased six thousand three hundred and seventeen, and during the last twenty years, ten thousand eight hundred and forty-three souls. Unlike many other large towns, Sheffield cannot boast of its mayor and corpora- tion. The power of the company of cutlers extends only to their own body, and until the year 1818, Sheffield had no advantages over the smallest town in the kingdom. In that year, an act was passed for the better regulation of the town, under the title of “an act for cleansing, lighting, watching, and otherwise improving the town of Sheffield.” This act has been productive of considerable benefit to the town, but much remains yet to which its operation may be extended. There was no provision made in it for a police-magistrate. Commissioners were appointed to carry the act into effect: their officers consist of a treasurer, clerk, surveyor, and collector. The commissioners meet at the town-hall, and the act of seven of such commissioners is a legal proceeding, and three commissioners for the purpose of adjournment. The surveyor causes all offenders against the act to appear before the magistrates, who sit at the town- hall every Tuesday and Friday, by whom they are examined, and judged ac- cordingly. The twelve town’s trustees for the time being, the master cutler, the senior warden, and junior warden for the time being, and a considerable number of gen- tlemen, constitute the commissioners of the police. Courts baron had long been established in Sheffield and Ecclesall, and an act of parliament was passed in the 29th year of the reign of George the Second, for regulating the proceedings in personal actions in those courts; yet it was found, that as the powers of the said act extended only to recover debts contracted within the respective jurisdictions of the said courts, persons contracting debts within the jurisdiction of one, often, to avoid suit, removed into the other, whereby justice was frequently delayed, the proceedings much protracted, and the fees allowed greatly disproportionate to the sums in dispute. To obviate these evils this act was repealed, and a new one obtained in June, 1808, by the provisions of which, commissioners are appointed for hearing and determining cases, where the debt does not exceed five pounds, and for administering summary justice between the parties. The court is held every third Thursday, at the town-hall, and is certainly a valuable means of recovering small debts, which could only be effected at great risk and expense in the higher courts. . Sheffield presents at this time the extraordinary spectacle of an immense town expanded from a village without any additional arrangements for its government beyond what it originally possessed as a village. There is no corporation, nor even a resident magistrate, and yet all live in peace, decorum, and advantageous WOL. III. I CHAP. l. Courts ba- I'OI] . 30 HISTORY OF BOOK V [. mutual intercourse. It is an instance of the gregarious quality of man without the usual cements of privileges, and the bonds forged by ambition and law. There are, however, other cements in reciprocal industry, in the interchange of labour, and in the joint profits of the community from the products of combined skill. Hence self-interest seems to be the common bond of society here, as well as everywhere. THE COUNTY OF YORK, : 31 CHAPTER II. MANUFACTURES OF SHEFFIELD. THIS extensive and populous town employs about fifteen thousand persons in its various branches, and of these full one-third are engaged on knives and forks, pocket- knives, razors, and scissors. The rest are engaged in the plated trades, in the manufacture of saws, files, and some fancy articles. The following is an exact enumeration of the hands employed in the various departments two or three years since:— On table-knives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . tº tº & G a s a tº a s s is e s e s p s a s e e = 2240 On spring-knives. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2190 On razors. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 478 On scissors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 tº e º is a tº sº s is e º s ºr a e ºr e º us a e 806 On files . . . . . . . º e º ſº tº e g g gº © tº º dº º tº º ſº G & º ſº gº a tº e º e º g is e a ſe a º e = e = 1284 On saws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 400 On edge-tools. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . j41 On forks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 480 In the country . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 In the plated trade nearly. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2000 About . . . . . . . * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * > . . . . . . . 10,549 hands.” * The following statement of the manufacturers of Sheffield and its vicinity, in 1787, is derived from Gales and Martin's Directory : Persons or Parsons or Firms Firms in in neighbouring - - Sheffield. Villages. Manufacturers of anvils and hammers • * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * - - - - - - * - 5 we e e s e e º is l buttons & e º 'º e e to a tº e º & © e º ºs & tº e ºs º e º O s e s e º e s e s e s s = e s • 10 g & G G & sº tº w O horn buttons . . . . . . & © tº e º a G e º dº ºn tº a e tº ſº tº º e e º 'º e º e º ſº tº e 18 . . . . . . . . 3 bits and stirrups . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ................. 4. . . . . . . . . 0 —— cases for knives, &c. . . . . . . . . © C C C C C e º is a e s is e º e & • . . 3 - . . . . . . . 0. clasps and dog collars............................ 8 . . . . . . . . 0 CHAP. II. Manufac- tures. 32 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Swedish iron. Besides those who are employed in Britannia-metal ware, smelting, optical instruments, grinding, polishing, &c. &c., making full 5000 more.* Relative to the iron and cutlery trade, as far as they are objects of national and parliamentary cognizance, the following details have been derived from Mar- shall’s Statistical Tables. In that work it is stated that the annual value of wrought hardwares and cutlery exported in the fifteen years from 1814 to 1828, was £1,283,000, at a progressive reduction in price, in the proportion of 292 to 195, On the same authority, it appears that the quantity of Swedish bar-iron im- ported annually, on an average of the fifteen years from 1814 to 1828, has been º º Sheffield. Willages. Manufacturers of combs............................ tº e g tº e º e º ºs e º 'º • • 5 . . . . . . . . 0 edge tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • . . . . 12 . . . . . . . . 6 -— fenders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 . . . . . . . . 0 - files. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 . . . . . . . . 17 - forks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . tº gº tº E G a ſº e g ºn . . . . 10 . . . . . . . . 6 — inkstands ...... sº tº e s m e a e s e s e e s g a n e º 'º º e s m ºf * tº e º sº e º 6 - - - - - - - - 0 ——— lancets and fleams . . . . . . . . . e & e s e e s ∈ e s tº e C tº & G - 11 . . . . . . . 0. —— lantern lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ........... 8 . . . . . . . . O — pen and pocket knives ......... & © tº e º e & w e º e s a e s e e 90 . . . . . . . . 6 —— common pocket and pen knives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 . . . . . . . 14 ~ TaZOTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . tº ſº e º is is tº as ſº e s º º ſº e a 40 . . . . . . . . 10 —— razor Strops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ... . . . . . . . . . . 9 . . . . . . . . 0 —-- Saws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 . . . . . . . . O ——— silver and plated goods . . . . . . . . . . . . • * * * * * * ~ * . . . 17 . . . . . . . . O —— Scissors, fine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. • . . . 37 . . . . . . . ... 2 ——— ditto, common . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . tº tº ſº tº tº e º e s is gº sº 24 . . . . . . . . 24 Sithes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . e e s tº gº e o s e e s s a 0 . . . . . . . 24 ——— sickles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 . . . . . . . . 3] ——— shears... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . tº e º e º sº tº tº e º 'º in 18 . . . . . ... 2 ——— sheaths, paper ink-stands, &c. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 . . . . . . . . 0 ———— stamped brass, white metal, and metal framed knives 22 ... . . . . . O ——-— spotted knives. . . . . ... g c Q & & © tº e º ſº tº G & © tº dº sº e º e º e g g º ºs e e 9 . . . . . . . . 76 — table knives, silver and plated . . . . . . . . s • * * * * * * * * * * 16 . . . . . . . . O —— table knives in general . . . . . . . • • - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 54 . . . . . . . . O — table knives, common ........................... 11 . . . . . . . . 6 Factors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . s = < * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 19 . . . . . . . . O Founders . . . . . . . . . . . . © & G G G tº gº & tº e º º ºs º gº e º ºs * e º O & gº tº e º 'º e º O p ºr * * * * g e 5 . . . . . . . . 0 Haft pressers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 . . . . . . . . O Merchants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . e e as a e g is a s is a s = e a s tº e º e º e s a s is s a e s e 15 . . . . . . . . O Nail factors . . . . . . . tº e o º ºs e s ſº tº • - - - - - tº u e is a e s ∈ tº a a tº e º 'º' tº tº ſº e s is e º 'º e g as a sº 2 . . . . . . . . O Opticians . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 . . . . . . . 0 Steel converters and refiners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • * * * * * - - - - - - - - - - - - 17 . . . . . . . . 3 Total. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 580 220 * Sir R. Phillips's Personal Tour—a work replete in original and valuable information. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 33 about fifteen thousand tons; nearly five thousand five hundred of which have been re-exported, leaving about nine thousand five hundred tons for home consumption. It is chiefly used for carbonization in steel, while, as native iron must be every where the same, we seem to be making a sacrifice from some defect of ingenuity. Sir R. Phillips was informed that the Swedes smelt from wood charcoal instead of coke, and that this difference is the cause of the superiority of Swedish over British iron. The quantity of British iron exported, appears by the same tables, to be for the last ten years one hundred thousand tons annually. As an under- ground production of inestimable value in all the arts of social life, no trade deserves more respect and encouragement, but none has suffered more from the oscillations of state policy. There are full one thousand seven hundred forges engaged in the different branches of trade, and of course as many fires, fixing oxygen to make their heat, and evolving the undecomposed carbon in unremitting volumes of steam and smoke. The manufactures, for the most part, are carried on in an unostentatious way, in small scattered shops, and nowhere make the noise and bustle of a single great iron works. Compared with them, Sheffield is a seat of elegant arts; nevertheless, compared with the cotton and silk trades, it must be regarded as dirty and smoky. “The steel and plated manufactures,” says Sir R. Phillips, “ require much taste, and in some cases make a great display. Hence there were exhibitions of elegant products, not exceeded in the Palais Royal, or any other place abroad, and superior to any of the cutlers’ shops in London. All that the lustre of steel ware and silver plate can produce, is, in Sheffield, exhibited in splendid arrange- ment, in the warerooms of some of the principal manufacturers. In particular, Messrs. J. Rodgers and Sons, cutlers to his late and present majesty, display, in a magnificent saloon, all the multiplied elegant products of their own most ingenious manufactory. I visited this superb establishment, and derived from its repeated inspection not less personal pleasure than satisfaction from such an arrangement of ingenuity. The articles displayed consist of knives, of every form, also scissors of every description, cork-screws, superior razors and strops, dinner knives of the best qualities, and various other steel wares, also of plated goods and silver plate. “As proofs of their power of manufacturing, Messrs. Rodgers have in their show- rooms the most extraordinary products of highly finished manufacture which are to be seen in the world. Among them are the following: “l. An arrangement in a Maltese cross, about eighteen inches high, and ten inches broad, which developes one thousand eight hundred and twenty-one blades and different instruments; worthy of a royal cabinet, but in the best situation in the place which produced it. “2. A knife which unfolds two hundred blades for various purposes, matchless VOL. III. K CHAP. II. Forges. Shops. Rodgers' RoomS. 34 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. in workmanship, and a wonderful display-of ingenuity. Its counterpart was presented to the late king; and that in possession of Messrs. Rodgers is offered at two hundred guineas, and is worthy of some imperial cabinet. . “3. A knife containing seventy-five blades, not a mere curiosity, but a package of instruments of real utility, in the compass of a knife four inches long, three inches high, and one and a quarter inches broad. It is valued at fifty guineas. “4. A miniature knife, enfolding seventy-five articles, which weigh but seven pennyweights, exquisitely wrought, and valued at fifty guineas. “5. A common quill, containing twenty-four dozen of scissors, perfect in form, and made of polished steel - “These are kept as trophies of skill, in the perfect execution of which the manufacturer considers that he displays his power of producing any useful articles of which the Sheffield manufacture consists. Mr. Rodgers obligingly conducted me through his various workshops, and I discovered that the perfection of the Sheffield manufactures arises from the judicious division of labour. I saw knives, razors, &c. &c. produced in a few minutes from the raw material. I saw dinner knives made from the steel bar, and all the process of hammering it into form, welding the tang of the handle to the steel of the blade, hardening the metal by cooling it in water, and tempering it by de-carbonizing it in the fire, with a rapidity and facility that were astonishing. “I saw razors and penknives, in like manner, formed in a few minutes from the bar steel, by the simplest operations, hardened by immersion in water, and tem- pered to the yellow colour by the eye and experience of the workman. “Mr. Rodgers took me through the entire range of his variegated establish- ment, and in them I saw all the preparation of the extra parts of knives and razors. No person could imagine the complication of the details, and the ingenious sub- division of labour, without seeing them. The handles of the knives in ivory, horn, and stag horn, filled several separate shops; the springs of penknives others; while the variety of steps, and the division of labour, constituted the secret of perfection, and produced all the results of their brilliant show rooms. “The number of hands through which a common table knife passes in its formation, is worthy of being known to all who use them. The bar steel is heated in the forge by the maker, and he and the striker reduce it, in a few minutes, to the shape of a knife. He then heats a bar of iron, and welds it to the steel, so as to form the tang of the blade which goes into the handle. All this is done with the simplest tools and contrivances. A few strokes of the hammer, in connection with some trifling moulds and measures, attached to the anvil, perfect, in two or three minutes, the blade, and its tang or shank. Two men, the maker and striker, produce about nine blades in an hour, or seven and a half dozen per day. THE county of York. 35 “The rough blade thus produced, then passes through the hands of the filer, who files the blade into form, by means of a pattern in hard steel. It then goes to the hafters, to be hafted in ivory, horn, &c. as may be required; it next proceeds to the finisher, to Mr. Rodgers for examination, and is then packed for sale or exportation. In this progression every table knife, pocket knife, or penknife, passes, step by step, through no less than sixteen hands, involving, in the language of Mr. Rodgers, at least one hundred and forty-four separate stages of workmanship in the production of a single penknife. The prices vary from 2s. 6d. per dozen knives and forks, to £10. “In the manufacture of a razor, it proceeds through a dozen hands; but it is afterwards submitted to a process of grinding, by which the concavity is perfected, and the fine edge produced. They are made from 1s, per dozen, to 20s. per razor, in which last the handle is valued at 16s. 6d. “Scissors, in like manner, are made by hand, and every pair passes through sixteen or seventeen hands, including fifty or sixty operations, before they are ready for sale. Common scissors are cast, and when riveted, are sold as low as 4s. 6d. per gross I Small pocket knives, too, are cast, both in blades and handles, and sold at 6s. per gross, or a halfpenny each ! These low articles are exported in vast quantities in casks to all parts of the world. . “Snuffers and trays are also articles of extensive production, and the latter are ornamented with landscapes, etched by a Sheffield artist, on a resinous varnish, and finished by being dipped in diluted nitric acid for a few seconds or minutes. “Messrs. Rodgers also introduced me to an extensive range of workshops for the manufacture of plated and silver ware, in which are produced the most superb breakfast and dinner services. The method of making the silver plate here and at Birmingham merits special notice, because the ancient method was by dissolving mercury in nitrous acid, dipping the copper, and depending on the affinity of the metals, by which a very slight article was produced. But, at Sheffield and Bir- mingham, all plate is now produced by rolling ingots of copper and silver together. About the eighth of an inch in thickness of silver is united by heat to an inch of copper, in ingots about the size of a brick. It is then flatted by steel rollers, worked together by an eighty-horse power. The greater malleability of the silver occasions it to spread equally with the copper into a sheet of any required thick- ness, according to the nature of the article for which it is wanted. I saw some pieces of plated metal, the eighth of an inch thick, rolled by hand into ten times their surface, the silver spreading equally; and I was told the plating would be perfect if the rolling had reduced it to the thinness of silver paper | This mode of plating secures to modern plate a durability not possessed by any plate silvered by im- mersion. Hence plated goods are now sought all over the world, and, if fairly used, CHAP. II. 36 HISTORY OF Book VI. are nearly as durable as silver itself. Of this material, dinner and dessert services Picksly.” she w I’OO II, S. have been manufactured from 50 to 300 guineas, and breakfast sets from 10 to 200 guineas, as sold on the spot. - & “In the various departments of their workshops, these gentlemen employ from four hundred to five hundred hands. The steel which they prefer and generally use for table-knives, penknives, pocket knives, razors, and fine scissors, and for general purposes, is that of Messrs. Naylor and Sanderson, of Sheffield. The price of steel varies considerably, according to the quality and size of bars: and Messrs. Rodgers use per annum about thirty or forty tons.” - Messrs. Pickslay and Co. have, in High-street, a splendid display of every variety, not only of Sheffield manufactures (the principal part produced in their own workshops), but also a very extensive collection of such fancy hardware as is made at Birmingham; so that in eleven show rooms, whatever is made of steel, iron, brass, and silver, may be freely examined and purchased on the best terms. In Peruvian steel articles, such as razors, penknives, scissors, table knives, &c. the show rooms are very brilliant; it is the pride of their establishment, and this steel is peculiar to their manufactory. It is an alloy of steel with certain portions of other metals, obtained from Peru. Thomas Mettam, one of the makers of their razors, informed the gentleman before referred to, that the Peruvian steel was, tech- nically, sadder, that is, so much harder, and consequently more difficult to work, than any other, that he could not make above twelve dozen a day, though of common steel he could make sixteen dozen. The superiority of this steel consists in retaining its elasticity, when hardened, to a very high degree; and it bears, therefore, a sharper and more durable edge, which must render it invaluable to the manufacturing of razors and penknives; it likewise bears a very brilliant polish. At Sheffield are cast and finished, most, if not all the parts of grates sold as their own make by the furnishing ironmongers of the metropolis. Their names are placed on them; but, in reality, they merely put the parts together. In these rooms are superior castings for backs of grates, little inferior in delicacy to plaster of Paris; and for grates connected with one of these patterns, 100 guineas each was lately paid by a northern squire. Grates with folding doors are made here, and also at Chesterfield. The doors are in half heights, so as to serve two purposes; and grates so supplied sell for about two guineas extra. Mr. Pickslay has brought the kitchen range to great perfection. With one fire, he roasts, boils with water and steam, and bakes. Economy and completeness were never more usefully com- bined; and a public establishment in Sheffield is fitted with one which has cooked a dinner complete for above three hundred persons. It cost nearly £300; but such grates for small families may be had at ten guineas.” * * Personal Tour, i. p., 262. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 37 We have been thus particular in the description of the two great rival magazines of Sheffield, because they are undoubtedly an honour to the town, and a praise- worthy exertion of public spirit. - - The mercantile part of the Sheffield trade is performed chiefly by travellers, but the principal shops in London deal directly with the manufacturers here. To ãs it is called, and to serve as 25 humour public prejudice in regard to “town make, an advertisement for various retailers in London and other large towns, the manu- facturers in Sheffield keep steel brands, with which the names of their customers are placed on the articles, and they thereby pass with the public as the real manu- facturers.” This town is celebrated for the manufacture of superior files ; and many anecdotes are told of the artifices which have been made use of to aggrandise or to repudiate the celebrity of the marks of some well-known makers. - In Sheffield the workmen generally get from 20s. to 24s. per week. Dry grinders get £2, and some £5 or £6, and these high wages are paid as an equivalent for shortness of life. Many women are employed as filers, burnishers, polishers, finishers, &c. &c.; and their wages vary from 6s. to 12s. per week. We must again be indebted to Sir R. Phillips for the following curious account of the cutlery of Sheffield. - “Very fine cutlery is manufactured by Mr. Crawshaw. I saw in his warehouse all those elegant patterns of penknives which, in the best shops of London, Bath, &c. excite so much admiration. His lobster knives, with four or more blades on slit springs, with pearl and tortoise-shell handles, are the most perfect productions of British manufacture. His penknives, with rounded or bevelled backs, to turn in the quill and shave the point, are simple and effective improvements. He showed me plain pocket knives so highly finished, that the first cost is 38s. ; yet so deceptive is cutlery, that I might have preferred others which I saw at only 7s, or 8s. It is the same in regard to the scissors of Champion and Son, articles at two or three guineas did not appear to my uninstructed eye worth more than others at a few shillings; yet in all these high priced articles, nearly the whole cost is in workmanship, and there are but few workmen who can produce them. At the same time, Mr. Crawshaw deals in penknives at 5s, a dozen, and Mr. Champion in scissors at 2s, or 3s. per dozen. - - - ... “Sheffield is, in truth, indebted for many of its improvements in cutlery to the mechanical genius of Mr. Crawshaw, the then master of the Cutlers’ Company. CHAP. II, * “The truth is, that in London there are no manufactories of such articles to any extent; and the cutlery jobbers could not make a thousandth part of the London consumption. I saw, in different Workshops in Sheffield, the steel brands of our famous tomon makers, and the articles in wholesale quantities packing up to meet the demand in London for ‘real tonn made.” This is a standing joke at the expense of cockney credulity among the Sheffield cutlers.”—Phillips's Tour. - WOL. III, L Cutlery. 38 . HISTORY OF Book VI. Grinders, He has made various important improvements in penknives. His penknife blade is manufactured on a new principle, the line of the edge being parallel with the side of the blade, forming a very acute angle; the instrument, therefore, even by inexperienced hands, may be easily governed; no cutting, but what is intended can take place, and the pen is formed with the greatest nicety and the utmost facility, Mr. Crawshaw is also the inventor of the patent tang and pen-nibbing knives; the lobster-knife, by which four blades open upon one spring; and of the quadrangular- knife, the principle of which is adapted to any number of blades, and has been adopted for show knives with from one thousand to two thousand blades. To this gentleman the trade is indebted for what is called the lobster knife, consisting of a spring, which, instead of forming the back, as in the old method, is placed along the middle of the handle, and between the scales or sides of the handle, so that it works on each side, and hence admits of blades at each end, and even of any number of them. . This mode of slitting the spring gave rise to many-bladed knives in all their varieties. Mr. Crawshaw took out no patent, but is a wholesale manufacturer, and the retail shop in his connexion, is Champion's, in High-street. “The novelties and curiosities in this way are extremely numerous, and the makers and inventors are as modest and communicative as they are original and ingenious. Thus a knife an inch long, weighing eight pennyweights six grains, containing seventy odd blades and instruments, cost £30 in making: scissors the eighth of an inch long, twenty-five of which weigh but a grain, sold at 3s. per pair; a knife, mounted in gold and pearl, containing thirty blades, is valued at £30: pocket- knives with twenty-six parts are sold at six guineas; the very best two blades, mounted with pearl and gold, made by Crawshaw, are in common sale at two guineas in Sheffield. Messrs. Champion are esteemed the best makers of scissors; and ladies’ working scissors, in general commerce, are finished and mounted as high as five or ten guineas. The best pocket knives are made by Crawshaw, and fetch, in high mounting, from two to five guineas. He is also the general maker of what are called the “best town made.” I may here add, that Messrs. Champion can make a single set of table knives and forks, the fair market price of which would be one hundred guineas. “The same manufacturer has also constructed an orrery, consisting of at least one thousand wheels, which, by a single winch, turns all the planets in their respective periods; and also the whole of the satellites, including those of Herschell. This orrery, perhaps the completest in the world, was made in all its details by this gentleman, and, in its wheel-work, is an astonishing production. #: “One of the curiosities of Sheffield are its grinding establishments. To assist the grinders, companies have erected very spacious buildings, divided into small rooms, and provided with steam engines. The rooms are let out by the month THE COUNTY OF YORK. 39 to master grinders; and at properly adjusted grindstones in each room may be seen CHAP. II. every variety of grinding, sharpening, and polishing, The finest work is polished by hand; and in this slavery the delicate hands of the superior sex are solely employed. The payment is trifling; but I was told that the hand of woman is the softest, most pliable, and most accommodating tool which has yet been dis- covered for conferring the finest polish on the refractory substance of steel. “ Grinders are subject to the casualty of stones flying in pieces while in rapid revolution, by which they are often killed on the spot; and also to a fatal disease called the “grinder's asthma,” created by the inspiration of the particles of steel thrown off in grinding. *. - The asthma is fatal to all the class; so that in a class of men, amounting to several thousands, few arrive at the age of forty-five, and very few survive forty-five When grinding was not a distinct branch of business, but was performed by men who were engaged in other departments, and who were exposed only for a short time to the grinding wheel, the “grinder's asthma” was not known as a disease peculiar to the grinders; but when, by the division of labour, grinding became a sole employment, several grinders were observed to die of complaints nearly similar, now common, and called the “grinder's asthma.” About thirty years ago, the steam- engine was first adapted for the purposes of grinding; and then the grinders worked in small low rooms, where there were ten or twelve stones, while the steam- engine, unlike the stream which formerly supplied the wheel, allowed no period of relaxation. Hence, at the present time, out of twenty-five hundred grinders, there are not thirty-five who have arrived at the age of fifty; and not double that number who have reached forty-five; while of eighty fork grinders, exclusive of boys, there is not a single individual among them who is thirty-six years old. After lingering through months, and even years of sickness, the grinder dies: but as they are in general aware that their life must be short, many of them think it ought at least to be merry; hence they abandon themselves to habits of intem- perance and dissipation.” - To discover a remedy for this dreadful evil was unquestionably worthy the atten- tion of the philanthropist, and we are happy to say that it is accomplished. In 1821, Mr. J. F. Abraham, of Sheffield, humanely turned his attention to it, and by repeated scientific and ingenious efforts, succeeded in constructing an apparatus calculated to carry off a very large portion of the injurious dust. His invention consists of a number of magnetic bars affixed to a box placed near to the grindstone, by which the particles of iron are attracted, and a piece of wet sacking, upon which the dust is thrown by the revolution of the stone. The grinder is also directed to wear a magnetic collar to collect the particles of iron which escape and fly towards his face. This invention does great credit to Mr. Abraham, both as a Asthma. _º 40 HISTORY OF BOOK V1. Grind- StoneS. man and a philosopher, and obtained for him from the Society of Arts the honour- able reward of their gold medal, as well as a distinguished mark of the approbation of his townsmen in the presentation of a superb service of plate. * This apparatus, however, did not answer so perfectly as was expected, owing, in a great measure, to the constant accumulation of iron upon the magnets, and the trouble necessary to keep it in order; yet Mr. Abraham has the honour of having led the way to the accomplishment of an effective invention. His exertions in- duced Mr. John Elliot to attempt a remedy; and he succeeded in a discovery at once simple and effectual, and which must surprise every one that it was never be- fore thought of. It is nothing more than a plain wooden box placed over the stone, to which a chimney of the same material is affixed, through, which the metal and stone-dust evolve, and is conveyed to the outside of the building by the current of air produced in the revolution of the stone. The principle of the invention is very easy, and its efficiency tolerably complete, yet Sir Richard Phillips complained that some atoms still escaped; and after he had been through seven or eight of the rooms, he inspired so many as kept up a tickling cough for many hours. For this invention, Mr. Elliot was presented by the Society of Arts with their vulcan gold medal; a handsome subscription was raised, to which the Cutlers’ Company contributed £20, and also passed him a vote of thanks. The grindstones which best answer the purpose, and which are found the safest, are quarried at Wickersley, near Rotherham. They are argillaceous, pale brown, and abound in quartz without oxide of iron. When they fly, or break, the effect is as fatal as a cannon ball; and in going through the rooms it is necessary to keep out of the plan of their revolution. Sir Richard Phillips's account of the manu- facture of steel is very interesting, “As steel is the raw material of the Sheffield productions, I visited Messrs. Naylor and Sanderson's steel manufactory in West- street, Sheffield, and also their works at Attercliffe, for hammering, tilting, and rolling steel. The conversion of iron into steel is, according to modern and reason- able theory, the combining it with carbon ; and for this purpose it is, as it were, stewed or digested with charcoal. - - “Swedish bar iron is put into a furnace in layers with charcoal, and then exposed for seven or eight days to an intense heat, during which the air is excluded. The progress is guaged by means of some loose bars inserted through a hole into the furnace, and the conversion of the ends of those bars is a test that the process is complete. If the steel be for elastic purposes, two or three days suffice; but for hard or blistered steel, six, seven, or eight days are necessary. - “ The fracture is now short and grainy, instead of being fibrous as in iron, and it is often sold in that state; but for the purposes of steel manufacture it is broken, melted, and cast into ingots. This is effected by putting about 2Slbs. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 41 of the broken bars into crucibles made of Stourbridge clay, and then these are exposed to the intense heat of a coke air furnace. I saw thirty of these in action on the premises of Messrs. Naylor and Sanderson, each containing two crucibles, and the whole 73 cwt. of bar steel. I then beheld the crucibles drawn out by iron tongs, and the melted steel poured out, like water, into moulds of the form of ingots, about two feet long, and two inches square. “In this state the steel is porous ; but, to confer solidity, the ingots are conveyed to the hammering, tilting, and rolling mills, at Attercliffe. Here, by the power of a water wheel, fifteen feet in diameter, hammers are worked weighing from 3 to 43 cwt., and strike, at ten or twelve inches fall, from one hundred to two hundred and twenty times in a minute | The ingots, at a strong red heat, are exposed to the action of these hammers, and the metal condensed, while the dimen- sions are lessened and the length increased. The same bars are then submitted, at the same degree of heat, to what is called the tilting hammer, which gives three hundred strokes per minute, and by the dexterity of the workmen the bars are reduced to rods perfectly fashioned. “In adjoining premises, worked by other water wheels, are arrangements of cast iron rollers for flattening the ingots into sheets, and drawing them out into lengths either square, round, or triangular; the different shapes and sizes depending on the form of the grooves through which the heated bars are drawn. “All this is effected with a degree of celerity and readiness in the men employed, which, to a stranger, is astonishing; while the noise of the hammers and the rattle of the machinery are deafening. Six tons a week are hammered down by one hammer; about three tons of average size are tilted; and twenty-four tons can be rolled, working night and day by relays of hands, which is often necessary, owing to the increased demand for steel, especially for the American market. “The men employed in this severe labour get from 18s. to 24s. per week, and these combined works employ seventy or eighty.” The manufacture of spectacles, telescopes, microscopes, &c. is carried on to a considerable extent in Sheffield. Above five gross per day are ground of convex and concave glasses in one shop. Concave basins cast in iron, of the radii of curvature of proposed lenses, are fixed in rows on a frame, and rubbed with water and emery. A concentric convex basin is then covered with round pieces of plate glass, fixed with pitch; and the convex surface, with its glass pieces, is then turned and wabbled in the concave basin by steam power. In this manner from six to twelve dozen glasses are ground at once, by one basin working within the other on an eccentric axle, which wabbles the inner basin while it is revolved. Of course, * Personal Tour, 270. WOL. III. AI CHAP. II. Optical in- Struments. 42 HISTORY OF B(\O K V I. in time, that is, in eight or ten hours, the glasses are so abraded, that the out- side of one basin exactly fits the other, and the lenses between are of the true curvature. They are then knocked off the pitch; turned and worked on the other side, on the second day; cleaned with spirit of tar, rounded or clipt with blunt scissors, and fitted in spectacle frames or tubes. In Cutt's factory are twenty-six of these basins for spectacles, and about eighteen for telescopes and microscopes. His optical manufactory is very curious, and the division of labour in making frames for spectacles, tubes for telescopes, microscopes, &c. in every variety, and in quantities calculated to serve the whole world, is astonishing. Borax is used for fusing the cement which joins the parts, and there are steel mandrils, and a curious machine for giving form to tubes, &c. In the various departments, there are upwards of fifty men and women employed. These factories fabricate “town made,” like the cutlers; and Sir R. Phillips was surprised at the moderation of prices here, and at the false policy which leads opticians every where to add such enormous profits as prohibit consumption. In trade, as in all things, cheating begins as soon as mystery is connected; and the conjuring character of optica machinery enables dealers to add profits which policy ought to restrain. The highly commendable zeal with which all objects connected with science and literature are pursued in Sheffield, is most exemplary, and certainly different from any other town in the kingdom. § : * - THE COUNTY OF York. - 43 - CHAPTER III. º • .#. SURVEY OF THE CHURCHES AND CHAPELS, WITH SOME ACCOUNT of: THE PUBLIC CHARITIES, IN THE TOWN OF SIHEFFIELD, SHEFFIELD cannot boast of much display of splendour and ornament in its public edifices. The establishment of conveniences for religion, charity, business, and amusement, is the certain consequence of the success of commercial enterprise and industry; and although the town of Sheffield, like others which have risen to importance, has its full share of such conveniences, there has hitherto been rather a deficiency of that public spirit which is necessary to give an outward appearance of importance and splendour to its public edifices. Those dedicated to public worship have the first claim on our attention, and are certainly the principal architectural ornaments of the town. - From certain passages in two charters of Henry III, in the Monasticon, Mr. Hunter is of opinion that there was a church at this place so early as the reign of Henry II. ; and it appears to have been endowed very early by one of the Lovetot family.* Two thirds of the tithe of this parish were transferred by Richard II., in the ninth year of his reign, to the Carthusian convent of St. Ann, without the walls of Coventry, which he had lately founded. In the possession of this house they continued until the Reformation, when it was granted (13 Apl. 3 Edward VI.) to Mary countess dowager of Northumberland, together with much other property of the like description. This lady was a daughter of George, the fourth earl of Shrewsbury; and the unthrifty character of her husband rendered such a grant as this peculiarly acceptable. The countess of Northumberland died at an advanced age, in 1572, and was laid in the vault at Sheffield, amongst her ancestors and kindred. The son and heir of Francis George, the sixth earl of Shrewsbury, then entered into the enjoyment of this comprehensive grant; and the rectory being thus reunited with the manor, has attended it in its descent to its present noble owner. When two thirds of the entire tithe of the parish of Sheffield were * Hallamshire, p. 130. CHAP. III, Churches and cha- pels. 44 - HISTORY OF Aº Book VI, given to the monastic foundation above mentioned, there remained one third, which, T together with the manse and croft, the oblations and obventions, would have formed an excellent provision for the officiating clergyman; but the second William de Lovetot thought proper to transfer this portion to the monastery of Worksop, and to leave to the monks of that house the power of nominating a vicar. At the Refor- mation it was assigned over by the crown to different purchasers.' Benefice. The right of presenting a vicar to the church of St. Peter, Sheffield, was given by letters patent, bearing date 1544, (36 Henry VIII.) to Robert and William Swyft, and passed, with the Broomhall estate, to the respectable family of Jessop, and by the marriage of two coheiresses, to those of Wilkinson and Gell by rotation. The revered James Wilkinson, son of Barbara Jessop, bequeathed his share in the presentation to Elizabeth Barbara Lawson, who now enjoys it alternately with Philip Gell, Esq. of Hopton, Derbyshire. It is valued in the Liber regis at £12. 15s. 23d. To the vicar are associated three assistant ministers, who were first appointed by Queen Mary, 1553, and a grant of land made for their support, and are elected by twelve officers of the parish, styled the twelve capital church burgesses, established by a patent, in 1554, as trustees of this grant, and of other affairs of the church. The office of the three ministers is, according to the patent, to assist the vicar, “ad celebrand et ministrand divina servitia et ministeria ac sacramenta et sacramen- talia aliaque ad divinum cultum necessaria in ecclesia parochial de Sheffield, praed et parochia ibidem.” In addition to the three assistant ministers, the vicar has his own curate, and these five clergymen take the duty alternate weeks. There are three services and three sermons every Sunday, morning, afternoon, and evening: the latter commenced in 1778, on the suggestion of Mr. Cam, and the assistant ministers were remunerated by a public subscription raised for that purpose, until the church burgesses agreed to advance their salaries for this extra duty. Survey of The parish church is a noble edifice, situate near the centre of the town, at **P* the head of High street. It was originally erected in the reign of Henry I., and is a large structure of pointed architecture, having a tower and spire rising from its centre; its length from east to west is about two hundred and forty, and its breadth one hundred and thirty feet. It comprises a nave, and chancel, with aisles. The west front of the nave has three pointed windows, with perpendicular tracery, and the roof is embattled, with pinnacles. Each side of the church is made into eight divisions by small buttresses, terminating above the battlements in croc- keted pinnacles. The windows are of three lights, (except one, which has five) with perpendicular tracery. Over the largest window on the south side is a clumsy bell turret, apparently erected about the seventeenth century. The clerestory to the nave has five pointed windows, with an embattled parapet and pinnacles. The THE COUNTY OF YORK. 45 east end of the church has a similar appearance to the west, with the exception of CHAP. III. the windows, which have tracery of the reign of Edward III. The tower appears of the same period; it is embattled with crocketed pinnacles at the angles, and from the centre rises an octagonal spire of considerable altitude. This is also crocketed at the angles, and has a light and elegant appearance. The entire structure has been repaired in a tolerable manner; some part at the east end was executed in 1794, as appears from a date. This church has undergone great changes and re-edifications since its original foundation, and the only parts of the ancient fabric now remaining, are the pillars which support the tower. The most considerable improvements, as to convenience, have been effected in modern times. The body of the church was formerly extremely incommodious, the pews being scattered about without any regard to regularity; and in the year 1800, on a suggestion being given by the archdeacon, a general repair was commenced ; the nave, from the tower westward, was rebuilt from its foundation, and the whole pewed in a neat and convenient style, suitable for the accommodation of nearly three thousand persons. The nave is divided from the aisles by five pointed arches, resting on octagonal columns. A gallery is continued round this portion of the edifice, and in the eastern one is a large organ.* W The chancel, which is distinct from the body of the church, is extremely spa- Chancel. cious. It is divided from the aisles by three acutely pointed arches, resting on octagonal columns, the capitals of which are embattled. . Here is a curious carved oak pulpit, and a mean font. Above the communion table is a painting of the Last Supper, by Nathaniel Tucker, an artist residing in Sheffield, and who executed this picture when at the advanced age of eighty-two, as appears by an inscription on its right corner. On the north side are statements of various benefactions to the poor of the parish. - It is to be regretted that this part of the chancel should be so extremely dark. The painting above mentioned obstructs the light from the window so much as to give the place a most gloomy appearance, and prevents the painting and other decorations from being distinctly seen. To the north of the altar-table is the vestry, a comfortable room, about fourteen Vestry. feet square, occupying the entire north-east corner, and above it is the room in which the church burgesses meet for the transaction of business. The north side of the vestry is occupied by a library, consisting of about two hundred volumes of books, which were presented by different persons, as the commencement of a paro- chial library, about the year 1707. On the south side of the communion table is the Sepulchral sepulchral chapel of the noble family of Talbot, commonly called the Shrews. chapel. * It was erected by English, in 1784. In the tower is an excellent peal of ten bells, hung in 1799. WOL. III. N - 46 HISTORY OF BOOK Vſ. bury chapel, founded by George, the fourth earl of Shrewsbury, in the time of Henry the Eighth. Its south and east sides are formed by the outer walls of the church. It is separated from the chancel in front by an oak screen, and adjoining the altar table by a beautiful depressed stone arch. In this chapel are deposited the remains of four earls of Shrewsbury, including George, the fourth earl, the founder, who died in 1538; his monument stands under the arch that divides the chapel from the altar-table, and consists of an altar-tomb with spiral columns at the angles, upon which are recumbent effigies of the earl and his two countesses, in marble, executed in the best style of that age, and probably of Italian workmanship. The earl is attired in his robes of state, wearing his coronet and the order of the garter. On his surcoat are the six principal quarterings of his house embroidered, and the dresses of his countesses are also ornamented with heraldic designs. The earl’s feet rest upon a talbot, and those of the ladies upon plain shields, supported by angels. Their hands are joined, as in prayer, and the character given to their coun- tenances is quite in accordance with the idea of their solemn waiting for the resur- rection to eternity.* Nearly in the centre of the chapel is an altar-tomb of stone or composition, without effigies or inscriptions, erected as a monument for some of the Shrews- bury family, as appears by the shields of arms on its sides, but never finished. Against the south wall stands the monument of George, the sixth earl of Shewsbury, who died on the 18th of November, 1590. It is a large erection in the style which prevailed in the age of Elizabeth, with a sarcophagus at its base, on which the earl is represented lying in armour, the talbot bound at his feet, with a truncheon in his hand, his head bare, and his helmet standing near. The face and other parts have received much injury, but it was considered to be a striking likeness of the earl before it was defaced. w Directly over this, against the wall, is a plain slab, containing a long Latin inscription,t which time has rendered almost illegible, surrounded with a border, consisting of devices in heraldry and military trophies; above is a grand shield of the arms and quarterings of the earl, with crest, supporters, and motto, surmounted by a lion sejant affrontée. In addition to the Latin inscription on this monument, there was another in English, equally long, painted upon a board, of which there are not any traces now remainingf - The family vault is under the chapel, and in 1809 was explored by Mr. Hunter, Monu- mentS. Shrews- bury vault. * The effigies on this monument have been excellently engraved by Mr. Blore, in Hunter's Hallamshire. t It was composed by John Fox, the martyrologist, whose first draught of it, with various cor- rections and alterations in his own hand, now remains among his papers in the Harleian Ms. No. 374. It is printed in Hunter's Hallamshire, p. (48. f Mr. Hunter, in his excellent work, has given a copy of it, taken from Dodsworth’s MSS. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 47 accompanied by two friends. “By eight or nine steps from the chancel we descended,” says Mr. H., “to an upright door, which we found so decayed, that it fell from its bolt and hinges on a very slight force being applied to it. We were then admitted into a room about ten feet square, and six feet in height, its stone roof supported by a rough hewn pillar rising in the centre. We found only two coffins lying on tressels; that on the right contained the body of Gilbert, earl of Shrewsbury, while on the left lay another, with the following inscription on a brass plate— • Henry Howard, Esq. of Glossop, obt. Il Nov. 1787, AEtatis 74.” “The coffin of the Earl of Shrewsbury was of oak, and on a brass plate affixed to it was engraven an inscription, which Dodsworth copied from the lead in which the body in his time was folded. It was placed in its present oaken case in 1778, when this part of the church was much repaired by the Earl of Surrey. • ‘The body of Gilbert, Earl of Shrewsbury, Washford, and Waterford, high semeschal of Ireland, Lord Talbot, Comyn of Badenagh, Montchensie, Strange of Blackmere, Gifford of Brimsfield, Clifford of Corsam, Furnival, Verdon, and Lufetote, knight of the garter, privy counsellor to his Matie, Justice in Eyre, from Trent northward, who died the seventh day of May, A.D. 1616, aged 64.” w These two coffins are the whole that can now be seen; the others that were deposited here, are supposed to be walled up in that part of the vault immediately under the founder's tomb. The following is a list of the noble persons who were interred here :— Ann, Countess of Shrewsbury, daughter of Lord Hastings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A. D. Mary, Lady Talbot, first wife of Francis, Earl of Shrewsbury . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1538 George, fourth Earl of Shrewsbury. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . s = a tº s m º ºs e º 'º e g is gº º is sº e º ºs e a s tº 1538 William Talbot, marshal of Ireland, his fifth son . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Francis, Earl of Shrewsbury . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1560 Thomas Talbot, an infant, son of the sixth Earl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1565 Gertrude, Countess of Shrewsbury . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1566 Mary, Countess of Northumberland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1572 George Pierrepoint, an infant, thought to be grandson to the Countess of Shrewsbury 1573 George Talbot, an infant, son of Gilbert, afterwards Earl of Shrewsbury . . . . . . . . . . 1577 Elizabeth, Countess of Lenox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1581 Francis, Lord Talbot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1582 George, sixth' Earl of Shrewsbury . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1590 Charles, son of Sir Charles Cavendish, and elder brother of William, afterwards Duke of Newcastle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1594 Henry Talbot, brother to Gilbert, Earl of Shrewsbury . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1595 Gilbert, Earl of Shrewsbury. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1616 Mary, Countess of Shrewsbury. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I 632 Henry Howard, Esq. . . . . . . . . . * * * * * * * * • * * - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1787 CHATP. III. 48 HISTORY OF BOOK WI The chancel contains a great number of monuments and inscriptions, some of great antiquity, and the whole forming a sort of record of the principal families connected with the parish for the last two centuries. The most ancient inscription now to be seen is one near to the north corner of the communion rails, upon a brass plate, as follows: #ere ſpeth ºlisabeth boughter of thomas erſe of 9rmont ant of Lort flig upf gometime ſunf to the 3Lorbe 3|20tuntique infliciſe &ſisabeth betraget tſje prºtag of #eſtuarn the nºte of our HLott #3 ccct p on injuge gauſe ºbu Bauz metrº men.* At the north end of the chancel, the family of the Jessops, of Broomhall, had 'a burying place, and doubtless many of them are there interred, although there is but one record, which bears the following inscription: “Here lie the bodies of William Jessop, of Broomhall, Esq. and the honºle Mary Jessop his wife, daughter of James Lord Darcey, of Navau, in the kingdom of Ireland, which William Jessop was Treasurer and Commissioner of the Alienation Office, one of his Maties Judges of Chester, &c. and nine times chosen Member of Parliament for Aldborough, in this county. He had by his said wife one son, who, on the death of his grandfather, the Lord Darcey, succeeded him in his estate and title, but died in the life-time of his father: and four daughters; Barbara, married to Andrew Wilkinson, Esq. of Boroughbridge ; Isabel, married to John Gell, Esq. of Hopton, in the County of Derby ; and Bethia and Mary. The said William Jessop diéd, Nov. 15th, 1734, an aetat 70. The Honbie Mary Jessop, June 17th, 1737, at. 66.” - Amongst the modern erections, we must not omit to notice one to the Rev. James Wilkinson, vicar of Sheffield. It consists of a bust, which is a striking likeness, overhung with drapery, and resting on a marble slab with square fluted pillars on each side, bearing the following inscription : - “This monument was erected by a subscription of the Nobility, Gentry, Clergy, and others, to the memory of the Reverend James Wilkinson, A. M. Vicar of Sheffield, Prebendary of Ripon, and one of his Majesty’s Justices of the Peace for the West and North Ridings of Yorkshire; whose life has been pre-eminently distinguished by unaffected piety, inflexible integrity, and unwearied zeal in the ser- vice of the public, during a period of half a century. He died the 18th of January, 1805, aged 74 years.” The bust of this monument, is the work of F. L. Chantrey, Esq., R. A., F. R. S., who was born in the vicinity of Sheffield. This monument was the first per- formance of his admirable chisel. A more recent monument has been erected to the late Robert Turner, Esq. It consists of a neat marble tablet, placed against the wall, opposite to the Shrews- bury chapel, and bears the following inscription: - “To the memory of Robert Turner, Esq. who died, March 19th, 1822, aged 67 years ; and who for many years filled the offices of Town Collector and Church Burgess, in Sheffield, with exemplary zeal and * A mistake of the engraver for Amen. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 49 inflexible integrity. In public life he was truly patriotic, and always evinced an ardent desire to pro- mote the welfare of the town of Sheffield. In private life, he was courteous, yet unaffected, and generous without ostentation. This monument was erected as a token of respect by his nephew Mr. J. B. Turner, of Walthamstow, Essex.” - The windows of the present church are all modern, and here no painted glass is to be seen. It formerly possessed many beauties and curiosities of this kind, but not a vestige is preserved. - - . . Till the year 1720, the parish church, and a small chapel at the hospital, were the only places of worship belonging to the establishment in the town of Sheffield. The great increase of the population had rendered it highly necessary that another should be erected; and in the reign of Queen Anne such a project was entertained, much canvassed, and some steps taken to carry it into effect. - But the difficulties were great. It appears to be a defect in the English ecclesiastical constitution, that it possesses not a power of ready accommodation to the changes in point of populousness which are perpetually taking place in a commercial country. Many of the difficulties seemed to be removed, when an individual of the name of Robert Downes, a goldsmith of Sheffield, came forward with the liberal offer of a thousand pounds towards the erection of the building, and a settlement of thirty pounds per annum for the support of a minister. Other persons also came forward with their contributions; and on the 28th day of May, 1720, the first stone was laid, and in the course of a year, the church was so far finished as to be ready to receive a congregation. * It was then discovered that a very important preliminary had not been finally settled, namely, in whom the right of presentation should be vested; the patron of the parish church, the vicar, and Mr. Downes, each preferring a claim. This occasioned great heats and animosities, great disappointment to the sub- scribers, and great inconvenience to the inhabitants of Sheffield, who had the mortification of seeing a noble edifice, raised for their accommodation, standing year after year wholly unoccupied and useless. Representations were made to the archbishop; but pending the difference among the three parties above men- tioned, he did not feel himself prepared to grant them relief. At length, on May 1, 1739, it was licenced as a meeting-house for protestant dissenters; but this strong measure brought the affairs to a crisis; for an act of parliament was passed in the ensuing session, vesting the presentation in the vicar of Sheffield for the time being; and on May 22, 1740, it was opened for public worship by Dr. Martin Benson, bishop of Gloucester. The church is an elegant structure, in the Grecian style of architecture, situate betwixt Norfolk street and Pinstone street, in the centre of a spacious burying ground. Each side of the church consists of one row of windows, between which are WOL. III, O CHAP. III. St. Paul’s Church. 50. HISTORY OF Book VI. Doric pilasters supporting an entablature complete, terminated by a number of beautiful vases. The east end has a circular projection which forms the chancel, and contains three large windows, betwixt which are Ionic columns supporting the entablature. At the west end is a square tower, terminating in one of an octagon form, and sustaining a spacious dome, upon which rests a cupola, sup- ported by four pillars. Four of the sides of the octagon part of the tower consist of pilasters, which support a cornice and balustrade, containing a range of vases, similar to those that ornament the body of the church; the remaining four sides contain windows. The corners, at the termination of the square tower, likewise hold each a vase. This part of the building was not added until the year 1769, when a subscription was raised for the purpose. The interior of the church consists of a nave, the walls of which are sup- ported by four Corinthian columns, and two side aisles, with galleries, and the circular projection ornamented by Corinthian pilasters supporting an entablature of the same order, and in which the communion table is situate. The length of the church is seventy-eight feet, the breadth fifty-eight feet. It is neatly and conveniently pewed, and contains sittings for twelve hundred and fifty persons. It possesses a fine-toned organ, built by Snetzler, in 1755, and a clock, presented by the late Francis Sitwell, Esq. but it cannot boast a peal of bells, one solitary bell being all it is possessed of. Several monuments and records of persons interred in this church are to be found on the walls and floor; but the only one particularly remarkable is, a beautiful erection at the west end of the south aisle, to the memory of the late Rev. Alexander Mackenzie. It consists of a beautiful bust, by the hand of “Sheffield's adopted son Chantrey,” placed above a neat marble tablet bearing this inscription:— “This monument was erected by the voluntary subscription of the congregation of St. Paul's Church, . as a tribute of affectionate regard to the memory of their most excellent pastor, the Rev. Alexander Mackenzie ; who for twenty-eight years performed the duties of his ministry with truly Christian benevolence, exemplary zeal, and eminent ability. He died in London, on the 30th of October, 1816, aged sixty two years, and was here interred.” On one side is a basso relievo of Faith, and on the other an allegorical repre- sentation of Sheffield weeping. - St. James's church is situate at the head of St. James's street, a short distance from the parish church, and was erected by subscription,” upon a part of St. James’s church. * The expense of erection was somewhat more than £3000, which was raised in shares of fifty pounds, each of which entitled the subscriber to a pew, as freehold inheritance. By the conditions of the act of parliament authorising the erection of this church on the glebe land, the minister was to be appointed by the vicar for the time being; the fees to the vicar the same as at St. Paul's, who was likewise to enjoy a rent charge of twenty pounds a year, fixed on the church.—Blackrell's Sheffield Guide. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 51 the glebe land belonging to the vicarage, in 1788. It is a square building, con- taining two tiers of modern windows, surmounted by a plain cornice, ornamented with vases at the angles. At the west end is a light tower, terminated by a cupola supported by neat pillars. • - This church is well pewed, and has galleries round three sides, resting on light cast-iron pillars; there is a painted window by Peckitt, representing the crucifixion of our Saviour, situate at the east end over the communion table, now much muti- lated. St. James's has a good organ, built by Donaldson, in 1794. The length of the church is seventy-one and a half feet, its breadth forty-two and a half, and contains sittings for six hundred and sixty persons. What is rather unusual with modern-built chapels in the country, St. James's is vaulted throughout for the reception of the dead. The charge for habitation in these earthly tenements is five guineas. There are a few monuments in the church, but the only one particularly deserving notice is a plain marble tablet, bearing the following inscription: “Sacred to the memory of the Rev. Thomas Radford, M.A. first minister of this church, to which he was licensed, A.D. 1788. After an affectionate discharge of his ministerial duties during forty-six years, he was called to give an account of his stewardship, in the sixty-ninth year of his age, A.D. 1816. Reader, thou art a steward : art thou faithful ? This frail memorial, a tribute of affection and regret, was erected by the seat-holders.” f St. George's church, situate on an eminence at the western extremity of the town, is one of the new churches erected here by parliament. The ground was consecrated for a public burial ground in 1817; but owing to a difference of opinion, on the subject of a church rate, between the churchwardens and inhabi- tants, it was not enclosed till the latter part of 1829. The foundation stone of the church was laid on the 19th of July, 1821, his late majesty's coronation day, by the Rev. Thomas Sutton, vicar of the parish. The ceremony was rendered extremely interesting by the attendance of the principal public bodies and the military, who went in procession, accompanied by bands of music. An immense concourse of people was assembled on the spot, who joined in singing the hymns written for the occasion, accompanied by a military band then lying at the barracks, which pro- duced a most solemn effect. It is a neat structure, in the style of architecture prevalent in the fourteenth century. In plan, this church consists of a nave, chancel, and aisles, with a tower, one hundred and thirty-nine feet high, at the west end. At each angle of the latter is an octagonal buttress, terminating in crocketed pin- nacles. The windows are pointed, and the upper one covered with a pedimental canopy and clumsy finial. The whole is embattled, and in the centre of each face is a small pinnacle. There are projecting porches on each side of the tower, with doorways. Each side of the nave and chancel is made into six divisions by small CHAP.III. Saint George's church. 52 HISTORY OF Book VI. buttresses; in each (except the third from the west, which has a porch) is a window of three lights. The finish of this portion of the church is an embattled parapet, with pinnacles at the angles. The clerestory has six pointed windows, with the same number of pinnacles, arranged at regular intervals on an embattled parapet. The east end is very plain, having a large pointed window of five lights, with cinquefoil heads and perpendicular tracery, and on the apex of the roof a cross. There are small vestries attached to this part of the church. - The interior is spacious. The nave and chancel are divided from the aisles by six pointed arches, resting on octagonal columns. The ceiling is flat, and panelled with several bosses. A gallery runs round three sides; that at the west end carved. And above it is another gallery with the organ. The pulpit, reading, and clerk’s desks are grouped in the centre of the nave. The former is octagonal, with a rich back, composed of several niches, &c. in the pointed style of architecture. The chancel is small, and contains no particular feature deserving notice. The font is an octagonal basin, panelled, and placed in the south aisle. The length of the church is one hundred and twenty-two feet, and the breadth sixty-seven feet. The architects were Messrs. Woodhead and Hurst, of Doncaster. It was con- secrated by the archbishop of York, and opened for divine service on the 29th of June, 1825. It can accommodate two thousand and three persons: viz. nine hundred and ninety-two in pews, and one thousand and eleven in free seats. The arthitects' estimate amounted to 16,040l. 4s. 2d.; and the contract, including incidental expenses, was 15,129l. 9s. 0d. St.Philip's church. St. Philip's Church is another of the new churches erected by parliament, and is situate near the Infirmary. The foundation stone was laid on the 26th of Septem- ber, 1822, by Philip Gell, Esq. of Hopton, who gave the site of the church and cemetery. This church in plan is similar to St. George's church just described, though quite inferior to it in style of architecture; the edifice under description being of a motley order of architecture, better known as “carpenters' Gothic.” The tower has buttresses at the angles, and an embattled parapet, with crocketed pinnacles at the angles. The west end of the aisles are without the porches noticed in the last described church, and the roof of each aisle rises to an apex, and is embattled. Each side of the nave and chancel is divided into five divisions, with pointed windows of three lights; the clerestory has the same number of windows; and both that and the nave have embattled parapets with pinnacles. The east end has a large pointed window of five lights, with perpendicular tracery. - The interior is bold and lofty. The aisles are divided from the body of the church by five pointed arches, resting on columns, formed by a union of several cylinders. There is a gallery round three sides, and one at a great height above the western gallery. The pulpit, reading, and clerk's desks are grouped in the - - - - - - - - - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 53 centre of the church, and the former, like the one in St. George's church, has the appearance of an episcopal throne in a cathedral. It is far too richly carved for so mean a church. The length of this church is ninety-five feet, and the breadth seventy-eight feet. The architect was the late Mr. Taylor, of Leeds. It was opened for public worship in 1829. It can accommodate two thousand persons ; viz. twelve hundred and forty-five in pews, and seven hundred and fifty-five in free seats. The architect’s contract was 14,721. 8s. 4d. ; and the contract, including incidental expenses, was 13,970l. 16s. - . . . . St. Mary's church is situate at the extremity of Brammall lane, at the south-east side of the town. It is an elegant fabric, in the style of architecture prevalent in the fourteenth century. The site of the church and cemetery was the gift of the duke of Norfolk; and the foundation stone was laid on October 12, 1826, by the countess of Surrey, surrounded by a highly respectable company of townspeople. It was opened for divine service in the summer of 1830. In plan it is similar to St. George's church already described: but the details are more correct, and the entire tout ensemble in a richer and more appropriate style of architecture. The tower# is well proportioned, and has, at the angles, octagonal buttresses, ter- minating in pinnacles. In each front are several windows, with crocketed pediments. The finish of this tower is an embattlement. Each side of the church is made into seven divisions, by buttresses terminating in crocketed pinnacles. In each portion is a pointed window of three lights, with a highly enriched transom. The tracery in the heads of these windows differs in each, and is very elegantly designed. The east end has a projecting chancel, with a large window of six lights. Each side of the chancel is guarded by an octagonal buttress, with a rich pinnacle. The interior is very neat; the body of the church is divided from the aisles by seven pointed arches, resting on columns, formed by a union of four cylinders; the capitals are composed of bold foliage. Round three sides of the church is a gallery, the front of which is elegantly panelled. The roof of the nave is groined with bosses of foliage, and the arms of the duke of Norfolk, Lord Surrey, Earl Fitzwilliam, and those of the see of York. The altar-piece is beautiful, being composed of five niches, with crocketed canopies, &c. The pulpit and desks, in the architect’s approved design, were placed on either side of the church, but were subsequently removed to the centre of the nave, at the suggestion of some indi- viduals in the town, possessing more influence than taste on such subjects. The CHAP.III. St. Mary’s church. architect of this church was J. Potter, Esq. of Litchfield. It can accommodate one thousand nine hundred and ninety-two persons: viz. twelve hundred and fifty-two in pews, and seven hundred and forty in free seats. The architect's estimate was • It is one hundred and forty-one feet in height. The entire edifice is built of Wadsley quarry stone. WOL. III. P ...t | 54 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Chapels. Unitarian. Nether chapel. Coalpit lane. 13,946l. 11s. 9d.; and the contract, including incidental expenses, was undertaken at the same amount. - - d There are a considerable number of chapels in this populous town, and many of them are built in a style of architecture that would do credit to buildings of the establishment. - - - The Upper, or Unitarian chapel, is a plain square building, situate in the centre of a piece of ground used for interment, in Norfolk street; it was erected in 1700, the first stone being laid by Mr. Field Sylvester, one of the principal dissenters in those days. Mr. Timothy Jollie, who was at that time a celebrated character, and who has left to posterity many proofs of his talents, was the first minister. The chapel is well pewed, and has three large galleries, with a good organ placed above the centre one. It has a conference house and vestry adjoining, the latter containing a small library of books. - The Nether chapel was erected about 1715, for the accommodation of a small church, or society of Christians, who, in consequence of the Arian dispute, had separated from the congregation at the place last mentioned, and united themselves in a distinct body, under the pastorship of Mr. John de la Rose, a preacher of evangelical sentiments, who had been assistant to the elder Mr. Jollie, and who died in 1723. Dark, incommodious, and heavy, this old stone-quoined brick build- ing resembled the Unitarian chapel in its unattractive appearance, till the year 1826, when it was pulled down, and the present very handsome edifice com- menced, on the site of the original chapel, and on the credit of a subscription, instituted two or three years ago among the friends of the place, who have herein exercised a spirit of application, and libérality of contribution, worthy of all applause. The new chapel, which occupies the site of its predecessor, and which was opened in 1828, is a handsome and commodious building, about sixty-six feet long, and fifty-one wide : the front, especially, is a finely-proportioned elevation; and the judicious intermixture of ornamental stone work, adds much to the imposing effect of the whole building. . Coalpit-lane chapel, a small and mean edifice, appears to have been built about 1775, by Mr. Edward Bennett, for the reception of a small number of persons who separated with him from the society at the Nether chapel, and over whom he exer- cised the pastoral office till the period of his death. On the removal of the original congregation, as afterwards noticed, this chapel became a floating conveni- ence to any incipient denomination which could rent it; consequently, it has been in various hands: at present, it is occupied by the members of a small sect, calling themselves Primitive Methodists. - - Howard-street chapel. — Mr. Hunter, speaking of the circumstances of the last- mentioned chapel, says, “The small sums which the seat-holders paid, were placed THE COUNTY OF YORK. 55 at interest till the time of Mr. Bennett's death, when he directed by will, that this sum, together with £250 more, should be paid by his executors to the church and congregation, for the purpose of building a larger place of worship, if that was preferred to remaining where they were. This liberal offer was accepted; and CHAP. III. with the money, increased by further donations from Mr. John Bennett, and other persons, the chapel in Howard street was erected, to which the congregation removed from Coal-pit lane, in 1790. They have had a quick succession of ministers; namely, Mr. Burgess, Mr. Slatterie, Mr. Taylor, Mr. Reece, Mr. Barnard, to whom succeeded their last minister, Mr. James Mather.” This chapel contains an organ, which was introduced during the ministry of the Rev. J. Mather, who removed from this place to Birmingham, in 1827, so that at present the pulpit is supplied by strangers successively engaged to preach to the congregation. - - . About 1780, a small society of Independent Dissenters built a chapel in Lea croft, and invited Mr. Povah to be their minister. They soon gave up the place to a congregation of Independent Methodists, whose minister was Mr. Macnab. Some years after Mr. Macnab's decease, the Rev. Francis Dixon, with a society of Inde- pendents, obtained possession of the place. . . . . Garden - street chapel was erected about the same time as the chapel in Lea croft, and is now the meeting-house of a society of Independent Calvinists. On the 20th of June, 1783, a lease for ninety-nine years was granted by the church burgesses of Sheffield, to Thomas Vennor, of Sheffield, gentleman, and John Read, of the same place, merchant, of a piece of land situated near a new street, to be called Fig street, or Queen street, at the rent of £5.2s. per annum. A chapel was erected upon it, Mr. Vennor contributing £450, Mr. Read £350, and other persons £300, or thereabouts, to defray the expense. Mr. Vennor, by will, dated 31st of March, 1786, gave up what he had advanced for the benefit of the said chapel, “ as long as it should continue, and be regularly used, as a place for the worship of Almighty God, if the minister who should perform the usual duty therein. should maintain and enforce the doctrines agreeable to the first thirty-one articles of. the Church of England.” Mr. Vennor died soon after, and Mr. Read, the surviving lessee, by indenture bearing date the 11th of March, 1794, conveyed over the premises to Joseph Read, of Sheffield, refiner, Thomas Vennor, of Wakefield, architect, and nine other persons, in trust, to permit the portion of ground in front of the chapel to be used as a burying-place by the families of Vennor and Read, and the chapel to be devoted to the purpose expressed in Mr. Vennor's will: and in their default to be sold, and the purchase-money divided among the representatives of the original subscribers, in proportion to their subscriptions. About 1806, the few Baptists who were scattered among the different Independent Independ- ent Dissen- terS. Baptist. 56 w HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Methodists Norfolk Street. societies began to meet together at the chapel in Coal-pit lane, and chose Mr. William Downes (one of themselves) to be their minister. After some time, they determined upon the erection of a larger place of worship; and the chapel at Townhead cross was built by them, and opened in 1814. The Wesleyan Methodists are a numerous body in Sheffield, the members in society amounting to 2103, according to the returns made to the Conference of 1827. The first race of this people experienced in Sheffield a full share of those persecutions, obloquies, and other vicissitudes, which so generally attend their appearance in other places. - The chapel in Norfolk street was opened on the 30th of June, 1780. It is a large and commodious place of worship, capable of seating about 1300, and contains a large proportion of free sittings. On the first opening of this chapel, and for a considerable time afterwards, the congregation, within exhibited an arrangement peculiar to early Methodism—the men and women seated on different sides—a regu- lation which, however commendable at the time, has long ago very properly given way to the preference of individuals, and the comfortable adaptation of family pews. Carver Street, Ebenezer chapel. In 1804, the large, handsome, and commodious chapel, at the top of Carver street, was erected by the Wesleyan Methodists, partly by public subscription, but principally through the influence of several opulent members of the body, who contributed munificently to this work. The building is of brick, and is very judi- ciously designed, not being chargeable either with a lack or with a profusion of orna- ment. It is correspondently fitted up in the inside, and contains within the pews sittings for one thousand one hundred and fifty individuals; besides which, there are free seats for three hundred and fifty persons. Within the chapel there is a meat mural monument, in memory of the late Mr. Henry Longden, a man, whose zeal, piety, and usefulness, secured for him a considerable share of respect— not only amongst the Methodists, where he acted as a local preacher, but with all who knew him. A considerable plot of ground, attached to this chapel, is occupied partly as a cemetery, and partly by the dwelling-houses of three of the preachers. In 1823, another large building, styled Ebenezer chapel, calculated to seat nearly 1600 persons, was erected by the Methodists, on a piece of land belonging to T. Holy, Esq., near Moorfields, in the south-western suburb of the town. This chapel is built of stone in the semi-gothic style; and is more to be commended for its present and prospective utility, and even for its internal fitting up, than either for the beauty or excellency of the external architecture. The chief entrance is a vesti- bule under a well-proportioned tower, which rises at the south end of the building, and is itself surmounted by a light wooden erection, fancifully composed, but in our opinion, neither an harmonious nor an ornamental appendage. This chapel was opened on July 27, 1823; it contains sittings for 1579 persons, of which 366 are THE COUNTY OF YORK. 57 free. The erection of this chapel cost £3000. The whole is enclosed with a good fence. - - Bridgehouses chapel is another which belongs to the same society. It is the smallest chapel which they occupy in the town; although, in the order of time, it was erected before the two last mentioned, having been built in 1795. - According to Mr. Hunter, the chapel in Scotland street was built about 1764, by Mr. Bryant, one of the persons who received ordination from a bishop of the Greek church, who was in London about 1760. He preached above thirty years in this chapel, Since his death, the place has been occupied by the Methodists, of what is called the New Connexion. - Townhead-cross chapel was built in 1821, by a society of seceders from the Wesleyan Methodists,” calling themselves Independent Methodists. It is a plain square building, calculated to hold a large congregation. The society of Friends, as the Quakers call themselves, assemble in a large and substantial meeting-house, built with brick, in the year 1800, and situate between the top of Watson's walk and Bank street. The interior is furnished with an ample gallery, which is fitted up, as well as the space below, with plain but substantial benches, with back-rails, and an elevation at one end below for the accommodation of the elders, as is usual among this people. The whole chapel is capable of containing 1200 persons, but is rarely so filled; nor indeed is the gallery ever opened, except on particular occasions, as the visits of strangers, &c. Con- nected with the meeting-house is a verdant burying-ground. * The severity of the laws once in force against popish recusants, prevented, for a long time, the regular assemblage of Roman Catholics for purposes of worship according to the ritual of their own church. On the subsiding of many of those anxieties arising out of the circumstances of the revolution, and the consequent relaxation of these enactments, and when the Catholics were fully tolerated in the exercise of their religion, they continued to assemble in a large room, which heretofore had been regarded in the light of a private chapel, in the ancient house belonging to the Howard family, commonly known as “the Lord's house,” which stood at the upper end of Norfolk row, and in which the present duke of Norfolk first drew breath. In 1816, assisted liberally by his grace, the Catholics in this town erected the present respectable place of worship, containing a small gallery, a good organ, and the usual conveniences and paraphernalia of a Roman Catholic chapel. Annexed is a small enclosed cemetery, neatly palisadoed from the street, and planted with trees and flowers, which give it that pleasing air so uncommon in the burial-grounds of large towns. It contains a neat monument to the memory * Maintaining, as an indispensable rule of faith, that their ministers should not receive any wages for their services. - WOL. III, - o CHAP. If [ Bridge- . . houses. Scotland Street. Town- head- CI’OSS, Quakers. Catholics. 58 HISTORY OF thodists, BOOK WI. Independ- ent Me- Charitable institu- tions. Infirmary. of John Curr, Esq., late of Belle Vue house, in Sheffield park; a man distinguished as an engineer, and especially deserving of remembrance as the inventor and original patentee of the flat rope, alike calculated for coalpits and ship cables.” Bow street chapel was erected in 1820, by a society denominating themselves Independent Methodists. \ The new connexion of Methodists increasing in numbers and respectability, and Scotland-street chapel, heretofore their only place of worship in this town, being both incommodious and out of repair, they resolved, in the year 1827, upon the erection of a meat, comfortable, and additional chapel, on a convenient ºpiece of ground belonging to Earl Fitzwilliam, and adjoining the great south entrance into the town. This chapel can accommodate 1000 persons. - . Sheffield, like several other towns in the West Riding, has numerous valuable charitable institutions, principally supported by the intelligent commercial com- munity resident in the town and neighbourhood. - - The Infirmary, an excellent institution, was first formed in 1792. An anonymous request was at that time made, that the inhabitants of the town and neighbourhood should assemble to consider the expediency of the measure. They assembled accordingly on Monday, the 23d of April. The business was discussed, but the meeting came to no conclusion, and was now in the act of dissolving, when a fortunate turn was given to the proceedings by the liberal offer of £1000, in aid of the design, from Mrs. Fell, of Newhall, transmitted through the late Mr. Richard Swallow. Upon this a subscription was immediately opened, which very soon amounted to £15,000. The first stone of the building was laid on the 4th of September, 1793, by Mr. Swallow, as proxy for Mrs. Fell. It stands about a mile from the town, towards the north west, in a situation equally pleasant and healthful. The building is extensive, substantial, and elegant. The exterior is a neat stone edifice, in plain architecture, of three stories, with circular projections at each end. The principal entrance is in the centre, and consists of a neat portico with a representation of Hope and Charity on each side. In front is a spacious area enclosed with an iron - railing, with a gate in the centre, and a porter's lodge on each side. The interior arrangements are extensive and convenient, and consist of every requisite which such an establishment can need. p - * Blackwell's Sheffield Guide, p. lvii. * “It may not be generally known that this very laudable request proceeded from Dr. Younge. The writer of this note was in company with the Doctor in 1822, when he was led for the first time to acknowledge a fact which he had thirty years confined to his own bosom. One such act of dis- interested benevolence, satisfied with its own scoret approbation, would raise the most ordinary mortal to distinction. Here it is merely in unison with the general character of Dr. Younge, a character too well known and justly appreciated to need any eulogy from us.”—Sheffield Guide. - - . - -£， | Sºlº *icº, THE COUNTY OF YORK. - 59 This laudable institution is open to all strangers, as well as natives, who have occasion for medical or surgical assistance without sufficient means of otherwise procuring it. - The institution is supported by annual contributions and the proceeds of bene- factions* and legacies. - - The very great utility of this institution to the town and neighbourhood of Sheffield is demonstrated by the number of patients received annually into the house, which was from Midsummer, 1822 to 1823,704; and the number of patients to whom relief was granted without being admitted into the house, 1833; and the total number admitted since its establishment, in 1797, 33,305. , - The Earl of Shrewsbury's Hospital was founded by the last will and testament of Gilbert, earl of Shrewsbury, in 1616; but the unhappy events of succeeding years prevented the benevolent purpose being carried into effect until 1666, when the buildings were completed. They were situate near the river Sheaf, on the east side of the town, and had a large chapel adjoining them. The object of the hospital is the maintenance of poor aged persons; and, as con- siderable additions have been made to the revenues of the charity by succeeding branches of the family, the original number of pensioners is much increased. His grace the duke of Norfolk, the inheritor of the estates of the Shrewsbury family, is the patron of the hospital and chapel, and the appointment of the pensioners rests with him. - tº . The charity is managed by trustees, who are also appointed by the duke of Norfolk. There are at present eighteen men and as many women in the hospital : the men receive ten shillings and the women eight shillings a week, as well as coals and several articles of dress. An act of parliament was passed in 1814 for the removal of this establishment to an elevated situation upon the Park hill, near what is termed the ropery. The hospital was taken down about five years ago, and a new corn market erected on its site. The new hospital, erected in 1825, from the _ – designs of Messrs. Woodhead and Hurst, is one of the most elegant edifices in this part of the country; it consists of a spacious centre with wings. The alms- houses are one story in height, with square-head windows; each house has a neat projecting porch, with a gable. The chapel, in the centre of the principal row of buildings, has buttresses at the angles, finished with pinnacles; and, on the CHAP. III. ** * In the list of benefactors to this charity is “A gentleman who desires his name may not be known; by Messrs. T. Coutts and Co. bankers, London, 36337. 2s. 10d. :” and the same bountiful individual presented at the same time benefactions equally liberal to the infirmaries of Nottingham and Derby. It is fit the reader and all the world should know that this most charitable and generous benefactor was the late Rev. Thos. Gisborne, of Staveley, in Derbyshire. The three sums were the proceeds of the sale of £30,000, and the sums of £6873. 16s. 8d. have been since bequeathed by him to each of these charities. He died in 1822, at an advanced age—a truly excellent man. Earl of Shrews- bury’s hospital. 60 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Town trust. House of mainte- nan Ce. apex of the roof, is a foliated cross. In the interior of this chapel the body is divided from the side aisles by five depressed arches, resting on columns, formed by a union of cylinders. In the eastern window are the following inscriptions, surmounted by armorial bearings of the noble personages to which they allude. “The hospital of Gilbert, earl of Shrewsbury, was, in pursuance of the instructions in the last will of the said earl, erected and settled in the year 1673, by his great grandson, Henry, earl of Norwich, earl marshal of England. The site of the same being on the side of the river Sheaf, at the western extremity of Sheffield park.” On another pane of glass is as follows: - “The site of the hospital of Gilbert, earl of Shrewsbury, was changed in the year 1824, by the most noble Bernard Edward, duke of Norfolk, hereditary earl marshal of England, &c. under whose directions the chapel and the adjoining buildings were erected.” The inhabitants of this hospital have now increased comforts, and the advantage of a resident chaplain. - The property designated under the title of “ the Town Trust,” was most of it given or bequeathed previous to the reformation, and consists in houses, lands, and shares in the river Don company, &c. &c. The disposal of part of their property was transferred to the church burgesses at their incorporation in 1554, for the support of the assistant ministers, repairs of the church, &c. The annual income of the town trustees is about £1200. The right to elect persons to fill up vacancies in the trust is vested in the inhabitants at large. In 1733, a house of maintenance for the poor was first opened” in West Bar. º 1785, Aug. 10.-The charges of the house of maintenance from Aug. 10, last year :— 4%. s. d. Y Corn . . . . . . . . . . . . ... ................. 20 18 84 # Coals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 14 ll § Malt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...... ...... 7 7 9 || 3 Baker. . . . . . . . Q & Q & J C G D g g g g g g g g g g g e g º e a 1 4 7 # Salt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ............. 0 19 0 | # Meat . . . . . . . . . . . tº º ſº e º O © & & Q & C G e a n & G is e e 12 9 64 ‘s `s Milch. * * * e º ºs º O & © tº ſº e g º C tº º e º ſº a gº tº e g is a 5 2 7 § T Oatmeal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 6 7% É ă. Cheese . . . . . . . to G is sº a tº G & © ºr e a tº G tº G & G G & ºr e º g 7 2 6 gº, S. G-ddings. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . tº e º e º is e e s p e e . . 9 6 = 3 s ºd P. Shop: goods tº º is ºr a s g º G tº G is © tº C tº & & Cº º is e º sº e 5 15 2% § ~5 Shaving. . . . . . . . . . . Q s e & e º & Q & © ºn tº s s = e s a e 0 4 0 | = 3 Odds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ... I 10 11, ã ž - gºmyºgº rt: 69 5 5% 3 +: Wages. . . . C ºn e . * is a 25 0 0 * C2 , - -— ºl, 94 5 5; s Work done........ 4 5 5; °. Ca 90 0 0 j T THE COUNTY OF YORK. - 61 It was taken down in July, 1829, and a large cotton mill, near Bow spring, con- verted into a workhouse. - - - Hollis's Hospital was established in 1703, by Mr. Hollis, a native of Sheffield, who had acquired his property as a vendor of Sheffield cutlery, in London. He was a religious character, and performed many acts of benevolence, amongst which this stands the most memorable. He founded the charity some years before his death, having purchased a chapel called New hall, and a house adjoining, which he converted into sixteen dwelling houses, for as many elderly women, widows of cutlers, or others connected with the trade. At his death he made no permanent provision for this hospital, merely desiring that it might be continued, and his heirs have considerably exceeded his beneficent designs. In 1726, a very consider- able addition was made by Thomas Hollis, son of the founder, who also established funds for the support of schools, at Sheffield, Rotherham, and Doncaster, and for granting assistance to dissenting ministers of those places. In 1732, it was further improved by Thomas Hollis, grandson of the founder. The widows receive seven shillings per week, as well as coals, and a gown once in two years, and the dissenting ministers of the Upper chapel, £30 per annum, the minister of the Nether chapel, £10, Fullwood minister, £20, and the ministers at Rotherham and Doncaster, £20, each; the schoolmaster at Doncaster, É20, and the schoolmaster at Rotherham £40. The Boys’ Charity School was instituted in 1706, for the purpose of clothing, maintaining, and educating fifty-four poor boys, from the age of seven till thirteen. The present school was erected in 1710, and is situate at the north-east corner of Trinity church-yard. The charity has had many benefactions of property, the gross rental of which is about £280; and this, with £30 per annum from the duke of Norfolk, collections in the different churches, and annual subscriptions, form the support of the establishment. - In 1796, Mr. Thomas Hanby, of London, said to have been educated in this school, left a bequest of £3000, 3 per cent. bank annuities, of which the Cutlers' company are trustees, and directed to pay out of the interest, £10 per annum to the master of the school, £1 for an annual sermon, ten shillings to the sexton, and £5 for a dinner, the residue to be appropriated to the support and education of an additional number of boys in this school. Six are on Hanby's foundation, which makes the entire number sixty. - The greater part of the boys wear a dress of blue, with bands and caps, the remainder are dressed in green, supposed to be in compliance with the request of one of the benefactors, and those on Hanby's foundation have the same uniform as the boys of Christ's hospital, in London. - The Girls' Charity School is situate at the north-west corner of the Church- VOL. III. R CHAP. III. Hollis's hospital. Boys' charity school. Girls’ charity School. 62 HISTORY OF BO() K VI. Birley’s charity. Parlow’s charity. Hanby's charity. Hudson’s charity. Kirkby's charity. Parkins’ charity. Parsons’ charity. National; Schools. yard, opposite to the boys' school. It was erected in 1786, at an expense of £1500, raised by voluntary contributions. Its object is to clothe, support, and educate sixty poor girls, giving them every requisite instruction to fit them for domestic servants. It has received several benefactions and legacies, but it derives its chief support from annual subscriptions and contributions at the churches, &c. In 1715, Mr. W. Birley gave certain property for establishing and maintaining a school for writing, towards the support of a minister to perform divine service, and to assist certain old and indigent tradesmen or their widows. The direction of this charity rests with the church burgesses, school governors, and town's trustees. - Francis. Barlow, of Sheffield, gentleman, left by will, dated December, 1688, £8 a-year for the first six years after his death, and £6 a-year for ever after, to be distributed every Christmas, by the overseers of the poor, among such decayed tradesmen as they shall think proper. Mr. Thomas Hanby, previously noticed, left a considerable sum to the Boys’ Charity School. It was a portion of a legacy of £8000, to be paid at the decease of his wife, to the Company of Cutlers upon trust, to employ the interest of £3000 in the Boys’ Charity School, as mentioned in our notice of that institution; and the remaining £5000 to be appropriated to the annual benefit of creditable poor housekeepers, members of the Church of England, not under fifty years of age; two-thirds of whom must be men, and one-third women. The choice of the indi- viduals to receive the benefit of this charity, rests with the master and two wardens of the Cutlers’ Company, the past masters, the vicar and churchwardens, and the church burgesses. The day appointed for the distribution, is the 29th of June, Mr. Hanby's birth-day, when each individual receives twenty shillings in money, a black hat, and a blue coat, or cloak. Two hundred pounds was left at the disposal of the Cutlers’ Company, by Mr. James Hudson, of London, from the proceeds of which, ten shillings is to be paid annally to sixteen of the most needy file-makers. &P Mr. John Kirkby left, in 1779, to certain trustees, £400, the income to be appro- priated to two poor widows. The sum of £500 was left by Mrs. Elizabeth Parkins, in 1706, the income to be appropriated by the vicar, three assistant ministers, and the churchwardens, to such poor persons as they should select. Mrs. Mary Parsons, who died in 1815, left £1500 to be invested in the public funds, and the interest annually to be distributed among forty-eight aged, infirm, and poor silver-platers, and two pounds for a sermon, to be preached in the parish church on the anniversary of St. John the Baptist. * The National Schools are situate in Carver street. The building was erected THE county of York. 63 in 1812, by public subscription. The interior consists of two large school-rooms— the lower room for boys, and the upper one for girls, to which small rooms for the use of the committees are attached. These schools are conducted on the Madras system of education, in union with the National Society in London, and are the centre schools of what is termed, “The Sheffield National District Society,” which includes thirteen day-schools, and thirty-six Sunday-schools in different parts of the town, and in the immediate vicinity, and the whole are now educating 4893 children. - y The centre schools in Carver street, of which we are more particularly speaking, contain, according to the report of 1828, 406 boys, and 410 girls. There are also good Lancasterian Schools in this town. The school for boys upon this system, was established in 1809, and is situate in Gibraltar street. The number of boys upon the establishment is 620. The girls’ school is situate in the same place, and was instituted in 1815. A school of industry had been established ever since 1795, and was the first institution of the kind in Sheffield; but in 1815, it was removed to its present situation, and recommenced upon a more extensive scale. A Society for bettering the Condition of the Poor was established here in 1803. “The object of this institution is to promote the welfare and comfort of the poor, by the encouragement of industry, economy, and order; by endeavouring to contribute to the relief of their distress, and to the promotion of good habits and dispositions; and, as far as the influence of the society may extend, to counteract the disadvantages which are suffered by the poor through unfavourable circumstances in their situation.” CHAP. III. Lancaste- rian schools. Society for bettering the condi- tion of the poor. 64 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Town hall. Cutlers’ - hall. CHAPTER IV. SURVIEY OF THE TOWN OF SHEFFIELD, THE Town Hall is a large square building, of plain architecture, in a convenient and rather elevated situation, at the foot of the Haymarket. It was erected in 1808; and the old hall, situate at the south-east corner of Trinity church-yard, which had stood upwards of a century, was at the same time removed. The ground- floor consists of a large entrance hall, in which are a number of iron pillars to support the ceiling. The upper part contains a spacious court-room, conveniently fitted up, in which the sessions, &c. are held, as well as the meetings of the police commissioners, and other public business transacted; and two rooms, one of which is generally used by the magistrates, who sit every Tuesday and Friday, the other as a waiting-room. There are also places of confinement in the basement story, and a dwelling-house for the keeper on the ground-floor. The building has nothing in its appearance which will bear any comparison to the elegant structures in many other towns: it is plain, but substantial, and on its roof is a cupola and clock. -- - The Cutlers' Hall is a plain stone building, situate in Church street, it was erected in 1726. On the front of the hall, carved in stone, are the arms used by the Company of Cutlers. The interior of the hall consists of three large rooms in front, one on each story, and several smaller rooms, closets, &c. together with spacious kitchens and other attached offices backwards. The principal room is on the first floor, and is used as the dining room on public occasions. It contains portraits of the late Rev. James Wilkinson and Robert Athorpe Athorpe, Esq. of Dinnington, executed in good style; also two busts, one of the late Dr. Browne, from Chantrey's chisel, and the other of the late John Rimington, Esq., neatly executed by Mr. Lawe, a promising young artist, in Sheffield. - - In this hall the business relative to the corporation is transacted, and it is also much used for public meetings and other general purposes. - - º º | |z f º - THE CO UNTY OF YORK. 65 sºrs The corporation to which the hall belongs was incorporated in 1624, when a bill was brought into parliament by Sir John Savill, entitled an Act for the good order and government of the makers of knives, scissars, shears, sickles, and other cutlery wares in Hallamshire, in the county of York, and parts adjoining. This incorporation of the master manufacturers is called the Company of Cutlers in Hallamshire, and consists of one master, two wardens, six searchers, twenty-four assistants, and the rest commonalty.” s * The following particulars of this corporation, are taken from a paper issued in 1822 by the clerk to the company, by desire of the master cutler to its several members, entitled “A Manual of the duties of the several officers of the Corporation of Cutlers, in Hallamshire.” -, -es - “To the Company of Cutlers in Hallamshire. a “Gentlemen, : “At a meeting of the Officers of your Corporation, held at the Cutlers' Hall, on the 14th day of January, 1822, a Resolution was passed, of which the following is a copy : — ‘Resolved unanimously, That the clerk be requested to prepare a small Manual, in which shall be laid down the regular and ordinary duties of the Master, and other Officers of the Cutlers’ Company, to be afterwards submitted to, and approved of, by the Company ; and then that such Manual be annually read bver at the Meeting, after the new Company are first chosen, for their better direction and government.” - “To comply with your wishes, has always been no less a pleasure to me, than a duty I owe to you; I therefore proceed, in the best manner I can, to point out the respective duties of the different officers of your corporation, consisting of a master, two wardens, six searchers, and twenty-four assistants. “First, then, their ordinary and regular duties, as connected with the original design of the corpo- ration, are to be collected from the oaths they are required to take. ! “It seems to be the peculiar province of the master and wardens to put into execution the acts, laws, and ordinances, from time to time made and existing for the politic government of your society. They therefore undertake not to amerce any person in a greater or less sum than after the quantity and quality of his offence; and also, in addition to the oath of office, they take the oaths of allegiance and supremacy, shewing that the executive branch of your corporation, so to speak, should be both loyal and true to the constitution, both in church and state. “The duty of the searchers, from the words of their oath, would also seem to be, to do and execute the acts, laws, and ordinances of your society ; but this is clearly to be understood in a subordinate sense ; and their peculiar province Istake to be, to search or inquire into offences against the corporate laws, in order to the offenders being detected, and brought to justice. “And the assistants are to give their faithful advice and counsel (not to the master, wardens, and searchers, but) to the master and wardens of the society; which is in accordance with what I have stated as to their duties, and they are generally to assist for the observance of the laws. “To be more particular as to the routine of proceeding ;-I begin with the election of the officers of your company: they are to be chosen according to the act by which you were incorporated, by the master, wardens, searchers, and assistants, on the feast of St. Bartholomew, or any other convenient time, in every year; and within a month after any vacancy in the course of the year, the residue of these officers are to fill up the same. “The course adopted is this:—The senior warden is usually proposed by the retiring master cutler to be master, and then is submitted to the vote; and if not elected, it is conceived that it would be incumbent on such retiring master to propose another member of the company, and so again until one be named, the object of their choice. The wardens are scratched for, by all the officers of the WOL. III. S ** CHAP. H. V. 66 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Assay office. The Assay office is a large building, situate in the same street. The trouble and expense of sending every article of silver or silver-plate to London to be company, from among the searchers for the time being ; in which ceremony the officers have usually scratched, beginning at the bottom of the list; but, for the future, it is recommended, that they shall scratch according to the order in which they stand, and, including the searchers, beginning at the top. “The next thing is, a summons signed by the clerk, requiring the newly-appointed officers to attend at the town hall, as on the first Thursday in September, at twelve o'clock at noon, to take the oaths of office which are then and there to be administered accordingly ; or in the case of supplying an occa- sional vacancy, the summons is for the party chosen to attend for the like purpose, at the cutlers’ hall, at a particular time specified, being usually the next general meeting of the company. “At the annual meeting, after the oaths of office are administered, the clerk and beadle of the company are chosen for the ensuing year. - “The existing bye-laws are then read over by the clerk, and the company afterwards return to the hall, from which they proceed to the parish church, and hear a sermon delivered by the chaplain of the company, who is annually appointed by the master cutler. “The master cutler keeps all the accounts of the company; from time to time accounting with and receiving the balance due from the preceding master, whose general account is to be made out and published within one month after his office shall cease. -- “When the master cutler is applied to for the use of the hall, or for calling any general public meeting, or any other particular purpose, it is usual for him to take the sense of the company, before he gives his consent or sanction to the application. “It is understood, that the company are subject to the call of the master cutler, by motes delivered the day preceding any meeting, through the beadle ; and a resolution is generally passed annually, under which the officers subject themselves, if absent at any meeting, to a fine of one shilling a call, for each of three calls to be them made ; and the amount of these fines is usually expended at a dinner given on St. Bartholomew's day,” or the day on which the new company are elected, usually called the forfeit dinner; and to which all the past masters are invited. “In the granting of marks, the searchers look into the books to see that no mark, already standing assigned to any person, be again granted; they then give a certificate to the clerk, from which he may make out the grant. Both grants of freedoms, and, marks, are to be signed by the master cutler, and then entered in the books of the company. “Here I would observe, that the object of the original foundation of your society was, doubtless, to impose such wholesome regulations and restrictions upon the cutlers of Hallamshire, as might secure the well-earned reputation of their manufactures,-an end which appears to have been well answered; but this original design is, under the present system of your corporate laws, as altered by 54 Geo. III. c. 119, now unhappily in a great measure defeated, from the contracted numbers of the members, and the latitude given to persons, not members of your corporation. It is true, you still retain the power of granting freedoms and imarks; yet it would seem that no sufficient inducement remains, for persons entitled to their freedom, to take it; and it is clear, that even your corporation itself must die, or become extinct, in the course of a few years, if there be no accession of new members. Your power of granting marks to freemen and non-freemen of the corporation, is occasionally called into exercise, and seems likely to come into greater request, especially if you should new-model your by-laws, as, according to the better opinion, it appears you may do, so as to include, under their provisions, not only freemen of the company, but also non-freemen residing within the limits of the corporation. e * “I would close this part of my subject with a suggestion, that the members of your corporation should use the influence they may possess over their sons and others, entitled to the freedom of the company, to induce them to take it. For, THE COUNTY OF YORK. 67 stamped,” was severely felt, and an act of parliament was applied for, to establish an Assay office. This was procured in 1773, but the present building was not erected till 1795. The Grammar School was founded by King James the First, by a patent granted the 4th of May, 1604, calling it “The Free Grammar School of King James of England, within the town of Sheffield, in the county of York.” The church burgesses of Sheffield had before this time appropriated a portion of their funds for the education of youth, and had a school under their own patronage; but, in 1603, Thomas Smith, of Crowland, in Lincolnshire, attorney, a native of Sheffield, left to the town of Sheffield £30 a-year, so long as the world should endure, for the finding of two sufficient learned men to teach and bring up the young children there in godliness and learning, that is to say, a schoolmaster and usher, the former to receive £20 per annum, and the latter £10, to be elected by the minister and twelve of the best and most sufficient parishioners of Sheffield, and by them to be removed at pleasure; F and his majesty was applied to for the purpose of incorpo- rating the vicar and twelve inhabitants, agreeably to the will, as governors of the “In the second place, there are other good offices, which, though not immediately connected with the original design of your institution, you have undertaken, and which are at .least so far like the other, that they have for their object the general benefit of the town, – I mean the bringing to general view, and sanctioning, and, where necessary, supporting with your pecuniary contributions, such public measures as the town appear interested in,-the dispensing of several important public charities, among which Hanby’s charity holds so conspicuous a place,—and, by means of your funds and influence, cementing that good understanding between the townspeople and their more opulent neighbours, which is likely to contribute to the advantage of both. “I am, Gentlemen, “Your faithful and very obedient humble servant, * { Sheffield, August, 1822.” ** JAMES WILSON. * The following is a statement of the quantity of silver-plate assayed at this office at different periods: lb. oz. dn't. From July 1, 1774 to July 1, 1775 .. 3010 10 9 —— 1778 . . . . . . 1781 .. 2569 il 5 —— 1789 . . . . . . 1790 ... 3079 4 I 1799 . . . . . . -1800 . . .3848 6 12 ——— 1810 . . . . . . 18] 1 .. 3882 1 4 —— 1817 . . . . . . 1818 . . 6214 8 11 — 1818 . . . . . . 1819 . . 6128 10 16 —— 1819 ...... 1820 . . 5236 0 6 – — 1820 . . . . . . 1821 .. 5310 4 3 —— 182] . . . . . . 1822 . . 4617 3 8 —— 1822 . . . . . . 1823 . . 4422 9 0 + Hunter’s History of Hallamshire. CHAP. IV. Grammar school. 68 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Markets. school. There have been several other benefactors to the institution who have added considerably to its interests. - One of the first objects of the governors was to provide a suitable school-room, and probably that maintained by the burgesses was continued; as we find that in 1619 they granted to the governors a lease of a messuage called the school-house, with the garden and croft adjoining, for eight hundred years, at one shilling per year rent. The school house was erected in 1649, and was a mean looking place, situate in Townhead street, and so much below the level of the street, as to appear purposely placed in an excavation of the earth. The historian of Hallamshire gives a poetical description of the school, written by the Rev. Dr. Inchbald, who was formerly a pupil here, from which we insert the following quotation :- “Pleased, I remember, and for ever must, Till memory’s powers lie slumbering in the dust, The wall-encircled court, that day withstood, Low sunk in which our moisy prison stood ; The low arch'd porch of ancient Gothic date. The modest portal of our prison gate ; (In piteous case disastrous to disclose, There oft I’ve seen the little lingerers pause, With artful head the truant tale contrive, . To Chadwick’s" frown all tremblingly alive ;) The gloomy entrance with its double door, The scooped threshold and the deep-worn floor, The row-ranged forms to glossy smoothness wore, With many a name all hack’d and mangled o'er ; The high raised wall that half shut out the day, And fix’d attention while it bounded play.” + Much to the credit of the governors, a new school-house was erected near St. George's church, about three years ago. It is a neat edifice of stone, with pointed windows and an embattled parapet. The architects were Messrs. Woodhead and Hurst, of Doncaster. A writing school was erected, in 1828, in Townhead street, at an expense of £1500. It is situate near the site of the ancient grammar school. It is an elegant edifice of Grecian architecture. The head master must be a graduate of one of the universities. - The markets of Sheffield are supplied from a very extensive circuit, and afford every thing which the convenience or luxury of life can require. The butchers' market is situate on a large plot of ground betwixt King street and New-market street, at the foot of the Market place. At the bottom of this is the market for * Head master of the school, from 1776 to 1809. + Hunter’s Hallamshire, p. 173. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 69 eggs, butter, poultry, &c. the greater portion of which are furnished from the farms of Derbyshire, and are always to be found in the highest state of perfec- tion. These farms are much devoted to the purpose of grazing, and it is from them that the town is principally supplied with milk, the demand for which, from a population so extensive, is extremely great. The market for vegetables is on the outside of the enclosure for the butcher's market, principally in small shops, which are well supplied with the most common, and occasionally the rare productions of the garden, though not very early in the season. The fruit market is on the south side of New-market street, and is furnished with a great abundance and variety of native fruits, chiefly from the neighbouring counties. The greatest portion of the potatoes sold in Sheffield market are brought by boats on the canal from the eastern parts of Yorkshire and from Lincolnshire, and are generally excellent in quality, and at a very moderate price. The shops in the town are in most cases supplied from these importations. For the luxury of new potatoes early in the season, the town is indebted to Lancashire and Cheshire. The fish market is in King street, and communicates with Castle street, near the markets already noticed. In South street, a market for vegetables, &c., was formed about 1825. It has a sunk area with shops, and was built under the direction of Lord Milton. A corn- market has been erected on the site of the Shrewsbury hospital. It is a large and handsome edifice of stone, with a colonnade formed by Doric columns. This market was opened on Nov. 2, 1830; and, on the previous day, a new cattle market was opened. Two fairs are held annually in Sheffield; the first, on the Tuesday in Trinity week, the second, on the 28th of November. On these occasions the town is filled with visitors from all parts of the adjacent country, and a display of merchan- dise and amusement as various as the characters of those who visit them, is invariably exhibited. What may be strictly termed “ the fair,” is held in the Wicker, Waingate, and the hay market. Within the last few years, a cheese fair has been established, and is held at the same time in the hay market. The Assembly rooms are situate in Norfolk street, and were erected in 1762. The principal front is of brick, with four attached Ionic columns, supporting an entablature and pediment. The interior consists of an entrance hall and two side rooms, with offices behind on the ground floor, and a ball room sixty feet by twenty- six, a card room and other appendages on the first floor. These rooms are con- venient for the purposes they were designed for ; but the want of decoration and the general appearance of the entrance hall, staircase, and ball room, render them totally unworthy of the town of Sheffield. They were repaired in 1829. VOL. III. T g CHAP. IV Fairs. Assembly I'OOIDS, 70 r HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Theatre. The theatre is an extensive building at the back of the assembly rooms, in Arundel street. It belongs to the same proprietors, and was built at the same time, but it has since been taken down and considerably enlarged. The interior is spacious and convenient,” the decorations chaste and elegant, and it is inferior to few provincial theatres for its adaptation to dramatic exhibition. It is generally open from October to January, with a respectable company. The music hall is situate in Surrey street, at the head of Eyre street. The first stone was laid on Easter Monday, 1823, by Dr. Younge, amidst a numerous company of ladies and gentlemen, who had assembled to witness the ceremony: on which occasion, the doctor delivered a very eloquent address. It is a large handsome stone building of the Grecian style of architecture, with a rusticated basement. The ground floor consists of a room for the library thirty-eight feet long and thirty-five feet broad, the ceiling supported by two pillars, a reading-room and saloon attached; a billiard room, thirty-seven feet long and thirty-six feet wide, two card boxes adjoining; a spacious room for the Literary and Philosophical Society, thirty-seven feet long and thirty-six feet wide, fitted up as a musuem. There is a good collection of minerals, and upwards of 10,000 specimens of botany. In this apartment is a full-length portrait of J. Montgomery, Esq., (the celebrated poet) painted by Barber, of Derby. On the first floor is the concert room, ninety- nine feet by thirty-eight feet, fitted up with an orchestra, a commodious gallery, and other necessaries; adjoining it is an elegant saloon thirty-eight feet by twenty feet, with four alcoves, two large refreshment rooms, ladies’ retiring room, cloak room, and other conveniences. It was finished in April, 1824. A society, called the Choral Concert Committee, here provides a series of grand miscellaneous concerts during the season. The lectures of the Philosophical Society are delivered in this elegant apartment. - This society was instituted on the 12th of December, 1822, at a public meeting held at the Cutlers’ hall, which was attended by many of the first characters for talent and respectability in the town and neighbourhood. In the same street is the Surgeons' hall. The design is chaste, having a series of Ionic pilasters, sup- porting a cornice and parapet with acroteria. In the centre is inscribed Ars longa vita brevis. The news room, situate in East parade, is an elegant and spacious apartment, about forty-four feet long and twenty-four feet wide. This establishment is well supplied with London and country newspapers, reviews, &c. and has the advantage of two arrivals from London in the day, morning and evening. There are two Music hall. Choral Society. Surgeons” half. * It is said to hold gº 120 at the usual prices for admission. |× |- ： - - º --- º -- - | 1 º Ogºſ ſºtºººººmbs （ºſae， ſuontaeſſae potisſinae uopuoT- | ， ، ، ، ، ، ：：：：：：：：：：：-- ……… THE COUNTY OF YORK. 71 hundred and thirty-eight members, who are elected by ballot: the subscription is twenty-six shillings per annum and one guinea entrance. Strangers residing six miles from Sheffield may be introduced by a member, who must enter the name and place of abode of the visitor, &c. in a book kept for that purpose. The Gas works are situated near Sheaf bridge, and the building is highly orna- mental. This company was formed about 1818, and the capital raised was £40,000, in shares of £25 each. An act of parliament was obtained, and the company incorporated by the title of “The Sheffield Gas-light Company.” The town was first lighted on the 6th of October, 1819. The Water-works are situate on Crook’s moor, and were established in 1782. The earl of Surrey, the lord of the manor at that time, granted the company a lease of the privileges they had enjoyed, in a smaller concern of the kind, for ninety-nine years, the rent to be one-tenth of the profits of the company. . The principal reservoir is spread over four acres of land, and is calculated to contain, when full, three hundred thousand hogsheads. There are also five smaller reservoirs. They are supplied from fresh springs on the hills immediately adjoin- ing. The water is conveyed, by pipes of four inches and a half bore, to the working dam at Portobello, a distance of one thousand one hundred yards, and from thence to a stone cistern in Division street, containing about seven hundred hogsheads. From this reservoir it is carried by pipes to all parts of the town. - We have already observed, that in 1751 the river Don was made navigable to Tinsley; but still Sheffield laboured under considerable inconvenience in not having this water conveyance at the town itself: and it was certainly a matter of reproach that the only wharf for the shipment of their manufactures to the distant parts of the world, should be three miles from the town. In 1815 the obstacles which had hitherto prevented the accomplishment of this most desirable object CHAP. IV. Gas works. Water works. Naviga- tion. were removed, the money required for the purpose was speedily raised in shares of £100 each; and on the 7th of June in that year, a bill was passed by parliament incorporating the subscribers under the title of “The Company of Subscribers of the Sheffield Canal,” empowering them to make a navigable cut from the orchards on the eastern side of the town, to the river Don at Tinsley. The work was completed early in 1819; and on Monday, the 22d of February, this direct water communication with the German ocean was opened with great ceremony. Adjoining the basin of this canal is a spacious wharf, in which the vessels are unloaded under cover, and above are extensive ranges of warehouses and the offices for the transaction of business. Wharf. The barracks (the last public building that requires notice) form an extensive Barracks. 72 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. range of buildings, which, with the parade ground, occupy a large tract of land at the north-east termination of the town, on the bank of the river Don. They were erected in 1794, and are capable of containing two troops of cavalry. The accommodations are extremely good, alike for the officers and men, and the situation is delightful and salubrious. The buildings form a square round the parade, and being whitewashed and kept extremely clean, have a pretty appearance, when viewed from the different eminences in the neighbourhood. º º º º * THE COUNTY OF YORK. 73 CHAPTER V. SURVEY of THE TOWNSHIPS OF SHEFFIELD, AND OF THE PARISH ES FORMING THE SOUTH - DIVISION OF STRAFFORTH AND TI CKHII, L WA PENTARE. THE extensive parish of Sheffield is divided into six townships:— ATTER CLIFFE-cuM-DARNALL, EccLESALL-BYERLow, UPPER-HA LLAM, BRIGHTSIDE-BYERLOW, NETHER-HALLAM, • SHEFFIELD, The park, the Park hill, the greatest part of the town of Sheffield, and a small portion of the parish lying north-west of the town, comprehending the villages of Portobello and Leary-Greave, and reaching to the brow of the hill that overhangs the reservoirs on Crook’s moor, form the township of Sheffield. From that brow the boundary is an irregular line, which passes beyond the infirmary to the Don, opposite to Neepsend. To this may be added a small tract lying along the Don, near the Castle hill, which was formerly orchards and other appendages of the castle. The whole of the township lies on the right bank of the Don, and its area is three thousand four hundred and thirty-six and a half acres. In 1811 the persons, male and female, inhabiting this district, amounted to thirty-five thousand eight hundred and forty. The park, aecording to Harrison's survey, made in 1637, contained two thousand four hundred and sixty-one acres three roods and eleven perches, all within a ring- fence of eight miles. This is still the entire property of his grace the duke of Norfolk, no part of it having been included in the late acts for the sale of portions of the Yorkshire estates of the family. This park, now destitute of timber, once abounded in forest trees of con- siderable growth. Some were probably planted by the fourth earl of Shrewsbury, when he built a residence in this park at the beginning of the sixteenth century, called Sheffield manor, and sometimes Sheffield lodge. “The general style,” says Mr. Hunter, “seems to have been long straight avenues of oaks and walnuts, pointing towards this mansion, which stood in the centre of the park.” “The site of Sheffield lodge,” says Harrison, who lived when the edifice was entire, “standing on a hill in the midst of the park, being fairly built with stone vol. III. U CHAP. V. Slieffield. Park. Lodge. 74 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. and timber, with an inward court, two gardens, and three yards, containeth four acres one rood and fifteen perches.” It is to be wished that he had left us a more circumstantial detail of this edifice, and that Sir William Dugdale, who examined it thirty years later, had not contented himself with delineating the few armorial decorations of its great gallery. It is in the dilapidated and grey remains of this vast edifice, and in its weedgrown courts that the spirit of feudal magnificence, which once inhabited this district, seems still to linger. It is only here, and among the monumental effigies of its noble inhabitants, that sensible objects compel us to look back to a time when a state of society existed at Sheffield essentially different from that which now prevails there. Here the mind cannot resist impres- sions from the days which are passed. We recall the chieftian of the age of the eighth Henry, living here in the bosom of his numerous family, and unwillingly issuing forth to disperse the cloud of rebellion which was gathered in the north. We see the fallen Wolsey treading the gallery with heavy steps, or engaged in close conference with its courteous host, in one of its windowed recesses, and hearing the name of Kingston with alarm, as described in the vivid narrative of his faithful Cavendish ; and at the window which still bears her name, may view the victim of the lawless power of Elizabeth, looking for the friend who was to bring the means of descent from a height so fearful, that she might regain the liberty she loved; while the whole pile is calculated to dispose the mind to serious contemplation on the mutability of all human affairs. It is to be regretted, that when the owners of this edifice were no longer concerned to uphold its fabric, they did not allow it to remain sacred to quiet and meditation. The house which is now the residence of the tenant of the manor farm, seems to have been built at a later period than the other parts of the edifice by Earl Gil- bert. This was an outer porter's lodge; between it and the main body of the building are two lofty octagonal towers, about sixty feet apart, built of stone, but cased with brick, and, in later times finely mantled with ivy. Between these was the principal entrance to the court, where a noble flight of steps led to the door which opened into what was called the great gallery. The last of these towers fell in the great storm in the night of the 2d of March, 1793. It was not ‘the practice of our ancestors to introduce much architectural ornament in their dwelling-houses. Ornament was reserved for the public, and especially for eccle- siastical edifices. - There is nothing in the mien of Sheffield manor which in a single object resents a fine subject for the pencil, and as a whole, the ruin is less picturesque han it was fifty years ago, when the twin towers were both standing. Its interest as a building arises not from the beauty of minute portions, but from the extent of the whole. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 75 The armorial ornaments of the great gallery are preserved by Sir William CHAP. V. Dugdale, in a manuscript of exquisite beauty in the library of the College of ornaments Arms, entitled “Insignium Epitaphiorumque, &c. Ebor. exempla.” I. A talbot statant, ar. on a field party per pale, sa, and gu. within the garter. — 2. The cross of St. George within the garter.—3. France and England quarterly within the garter, and ensigned with a royal coronet.—4. The six great quarterings of Talbot, viz. Montgomery, Talbot, Nevil, Furnival, Verdon, and Strange, impaling Hastings. – 5. The same six quarterings impaling Walden. — 6. France and England quarterly, impaling Spain.” * The passage into the town from the park is over the Sheaf bridge, or as it was Bridge. anciently, and is now commonly and properly called, the Shea bridge. That is its name; a name which may assist us in investigating the etymology of the name of Sheffield—the field not on the Sheaf, but on the Shea, a word formed from the Saxon ea, water, to which the f has been corruptly added, borrowed from its adjunct, field. In the name of the bridge over this stream, the letter f does not appear, but instead of it a consonant borrowed from the word with which the name of the stream is connected. This bridge was for a long time of wood only; it was the private property of the lords of the manor, and was first built of stone by the earl of Arundel, in 1637. It was rebuilt in 1769; it led directly to one entrance of the castle. In Harrison's survey, to which we have before referred, we have this account of the castle and its appendages :— Sheffeild castle, very spacious, built about an inward court. On the south ſº Castle. side an outward court-yard or fould, builded round with divers houses of officers, as an armoury, barns, stables, and divers lodgings, all containing by measure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 0 30% Three orchards adjoining : the first whereof is compassed with a stone wall, and lyeth between the river called the Litle Sheath, on the west, and the Litle Park on the east, containing . . . . . . . . . . . - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -‘. . . . 5 i O # Item. The second orchard, called the nursery, and lyeth near the aforesaid orchard, towards the south, and a parcel of ground, called the Hop-yeard, towards the north, containing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I 125, The third orchard near the nursery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 0 24;. The hop yeard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 0 2612, The cock-pitt yeard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * - - - - - - - - - 0 2 2814, In occupation of the keeper of the castle...... e a • * e . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 3 16? Of the foundation of the castle of Sheffield, of its inhabitants, and finally of its demolition, every thing has already been said in the historical part of the present * Hunter's Hallamshire, p. 192. 76 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. work. So entirely has it been destroyed, and so completely is its site occupied by modern erections, that the only vestiges of it are some portions of what appear to have been ancient cellars of the castle, now belonging to the hotel. At the bridge was a chapel, not on the bridge, as at Rotherham and Wakefield, but at its foot. Chapels were usually erected on bridges, perhaps to collect alms from passengers. This chapel, was converted to secular uses, and we find, in accounts of the Shrewsbury family, that it was used as a wool warehouse as early as 1572; it was afterwards inhabited as an alms-house, and was finally destroyed in one of the reparations of the bridge about the middle of the eighteenth century. The township of Ecclesall Byerlow is situate south of Sheffield, and comprises an area of four thousand one hundred and eighty acres. “The ground between the Porter and Sheaf, till those streams enter the park, and a tract lying north of the Porter, comprising Broom hall and a considerable portion of Crook’s moor, form the township and manor of Ecclesall.”* In 1796, it contained one thousand and seventy-one houses; in 1801, they had increased to one thousand one hundred and fourteen, when the population amounted to five thousand three hundred and sixty-two persons. In 1811, the population was six thousand five hundred and sixty-nine, and in 1821, nine thousand one hundred and thirteen persons. The chapel is a perpetual curacy, in the presentation of the vicar of Sheffield. A chapel was founded here in the latter part of the thirteenth century, by Sir Ralph de Ecclesall, the monks of the adjacent abbey of Beauchief supplying a chaplain. This service fell with the monastery at the Reformation, and the build- ing remained, but no service was performed in it till 1622. At this period, the inhabitants repaired the interior of the chapel, and by voluntary engagement, they offered £5 per annum, to their minister. tºº The chapel (which was a low mean building, comprising. a nave and chancel with lancet windows) was taken down in 1784, and a neat brick building erected at an expense of £1553. 4s. 5%d. It was consecrated August 5, 1789, by the archbishop of York. * The manor is extensive, though not mentioned in Domesday book, being included in the survey of Hallam ; it is now the property of Earl Fitzwilliam. There is a small chapel for Independents at Whitely wood, and two schools, one at Sharrow moor and the other at Broad Oak green. On that part of Crook's moor which is within this township, the races were formerly held. They cannot be traced further back than the year 1713, when the town's trustees of Sheffield were “ at charges to get horses to the races.” The enclosure bill of 1779 gave the death blow to this amusement. Ecclesall Byerlow. Chapel. Manor. Independ- ents’ cha- pel. * Hunter, p. 195. T H E COUNTY OF YORK. 77 There are several ancient mansions in this township; one of them, called Broom hall,” is situate about a mile west of Sheffield, on the banks of the Porter. It is a venerable remnant of one of the ancient timber mansions, erected circa Henry VIII. The Jessops added much to the original structure, and the principal part of the modern additions was built by the Rev. J. Wilkinson, vicar of Sheffield. Mount Pleasant, at Highfield, is the property and residence of S. B. Ward, Esq. Tapton hill is the pleasant seat of William Shore, Esq. It commands a delightful prospect over the Porter to the hills of Ecclesall and Norton. - The township of Upper Hallam contains eight thousand eight hundred and thirty-six acres, f with a population, in 1821, of one thousand and eighteen persons. This township forms part of the chapelry of Ecclesall; but a small chapel was built in a remote part of it, called Fullwood, in 1729, in pursuance of the will of William Rouksley, of that place. It is a small edifice, without any particular object deserving notice. A chapel for Wesleyan Methodists was erected on Rann moor in 1790. There are two meat family mansions in this township, called Fullwood and Stum- perlow hall. g Nether Hallam township contains one thousand nine hundred acres. lation of it amounted, in 1821, to three thousand two hundred persons. There is little deserving notice in this populous village. A school was founded here by Mr. Rouksley; and in 1794 a new school-house was built by the inhabi- tants of the neighbourhood. A school was also endowed at Heeley, in this township, about 1801. t On the south side of the town of Sheffield is the township of Brightside Byerlow. In 1796, the area of this division of the parish amounted to two thousand six hundred and eighty acres. The population of this township, in 1821, amounted to six thousand six hundred and fifteen persons. - There is no chapel in this township (except a small one for Methodists at Bridge Houses); the inhabitants for the most part attend the chapel at Attercliffe, and consider themselves as within that chapelry. At Brightside are considerable iron works, and an aluminous spring. The small village of Grimesthorpe, in this township, is pleasantly situate on the sloping side of Wincobank hill, and close beneath the noble wood with which the higher part of that eminence is covered. There is a small endowed school here. About a mile and a half on the road from Sheffield to Doncaster (on crossing The popu- CHAP. V. Broom hall Mount Pleasant. Tapton hill. Upper Hai- lam. Chapel. Mansions. * Engraved in Hunter’s Hallamshire, p. 209. + “Three thousand one hundred and fifty acres of this quantity were unenclosed moor land in 1796.”—Hunter. £ Situate in the north division of this wapentake. WOL. III, * Nether Hallam. School. Brightside Byerlow. Chapel. Iron works Grimes- thorpe. 78 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Attercliffe- cum-Dar- nal, Episcopal chapel. the river Don by a handsome stone bridge, called the Washford bridge), we enter the township of Attercliffe-cum-Darnal. This district, though in the parish of Sheffield, is in many respects entirely distinct from it: it contains three villages or hamlets, namely, Attercliffe, Darnal, and Carbrook. According to the latest census the population amounts to three thousand one hundred and seventy-two, consisting chiefly of colliers, mechanics, and manufacturers of cutlery and hardware. The canal from Sheffield to Tinsley (where the river Don becomes navigable) proceeds through the heart of the township, on the banks of which several wharfs have been erected for the delivery of goods. . The episcopal chapel is a chapel of ease to the parish church of Sheffield: it stands at the north-eastern extremity of the township, with a spacious cemetery. This building was erected by means of the gratuitous and free-will offerings of the inhabitants and land proprietors; the chief promoter of the work being one Mr. Bright, of Carbrook, as appears from “A record concerning the building of Attercliffe Chappell,” from which the following is an extract:— “The Right Hon” the Earl of Arundel, at the humble suite of Mr. Bright, gave us stone and timber; and neighbours of other towns helped us with carriage of slate, free-stone, timber, and lime ; they that had draughts within us led wall stone and timber; many gave horse loads of lime; Mr. Spencer and Robert Curr suffered the stone through their ground, which was a great furtherance. Mr. Bright procured us a bell—Mr. Will" Pleasington gave us iron to make bars for windows—Francis Moor glazed the window next the pulpit—Christ. Capper gave us the hair that shot the wall—Richard Pigot beautified the two pillars with his work—Mr. Bright gave a bible to the chappell, in 1633.” The purposes of the chapel are thus expressed in the consecration deed; “ For the more public service of Almighty God, receiving of sacraments, marriages, churching of women, and burialls.”—The celebration of marriages has, however, for many years, been discontinued, but wherefore does not appear. f This chapel is a perpetual curacy, valued in the Liber regis at £10; the patronage being in the vicar of Sheffield for the time being. The small emoluments belonging to this chapel had always been enjoyed by one of the assistant ministers from Sheffield, although the duties were equally shared by the clergy of the parish church, in rotation. The present vicar, the Rev. Thomas Sutton, viewing with concern the absence of a resident clergyman in so populous a district, with laudable consideration, determined, as far as lay in his power, to provide for this deficiency: accordingly, on the demise of the late incumbent, the Rev. Edward Goodwin, A. M. he separated Attercliffe chapel from this connexion with the parish church, and assigned to it a distinct and appropriate minister; on the 25th of November, 1817, he nominated the Rev. John Blackburn, A. M. of St. John's college, Cambridge, THE COUNTY OF YORK. 79 then curate of Walpole St. Peter's, in Norfolk, who was licensed by the archbishop of York, on the 29th of December following. Still, however, the object of the vicar was in danger of failing, in some measure at least, from the want of a residence for the minister; in the course of two years, this point was also secured by the purchase of a convenient and suitable house and croft, by the governors of Queen Anne's bounty, in 1820. Since the purchase of the parsonage, the living has received several augmentations, but its value is still very inconsiderable. Another great desideratum in this township was church accommodation, especially for the poor. Whilst the population of Attercliffe-cum-Darnal was three thousand one hundred and seventy-two, the episcopal chapel would not contain more than from four hundred and fifty to four hundred and sixty persons; besides which, the seats and pews being entirely private property, no provision at all was made for the poor. This inconvenience, however, has been corrected by the erection of a new church, the site of which was purchased by means of a voluntary sub- scription, munificently aided by the lord of the manor, his grace the Duke of Norfolk, and by the right hon. Earl Fitzwilliam. The expense of the building was defrayed by a grant from his Majesty's commissioners for building new churches. On the 30th of October, 1822, the ceremony of laying the first stone of the new church was performed by his grace the Duke of Norfolk, assisted by the right hon. Earl Fitzwilliam, and attended by the right hon. the earl of Surrey, the right hon. Lord and Lady Milton, the magistrates and clergy in the neighbourhood, the master cutler and company, town collector, church burgesses, and a variety of lodges, societies, elubs, and others of both sexes, in number about five thousand. “It is a circumstance worthy of remark,” observed a speaker on this occasion, “That in the year 1629, the right hon, the earl of Arundel (the first of the family of our noble duke), who became the lord of Hallamshire, gave the timber and stone for building the chapel now in use, and on the 30th October, 1822, his grace the duke of Norfolk, the representative of the same family, has with his own hands laid the first stone of a more substantial and capacious church, which is intended to supersede,the former.” - This church (dedicated to Christ) is situate near the cliff, from which most probably the village takes its name, beautifully over-hanging the Don, and pre- senting an abrupt precipice of nearly seventy feet in length from the bed of the river. The situation is most convenient as it respects all the hamlet, and from it the building may be seen in almost every direction around. In plan, it consists of a nave and aisles, a small chancel with attached vestries, and a good tower at the west end; but the whole is a flimsy and mean imitation of the lancet style of architecture. The tower has a pierced parapet and pinnacles at the angles. The sides of the nave are embattled and divided into six divisions by CHAP. V. Church. 80 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Manor. buttresses, with pedimental caps and niches,” and between them are tall lancet windows. The chancel possesses no particular feature deserving notice. The interior is lofty, and the nave is divided from the aisles by six pointed arches resting on a union of cylinders. The roof of both nave and aisles is groined. A gallery surrounds three sides of the church, and in the westernmost is a meat organ, built in 1827; and in several of the windows are armorial bearings of the noble families of Norfolk and Fitzwilliam. In the east windows are the arms of the archbishop of York. In the centre of the nave is a pulpit with a large para- bolic sounding board, erected in 1828 by the present minister, the Rev. J. Black- burn. The extreme length of the church is one hundred and thirty-seven feet, in breadth eighty-one feet, its height, from the pinnacle of the tower, one hundred and twenty feet. This church can accommodate two thousand persons; nine hundred and seventy-six in pews, and one thousand and twenty-four in free seats. The architect was J. Taylor, Esq. of Leeds, and his estimate amounted to £12,812. 1s. 8d. but the contract only came to £11,700. 4s. 11; d. - g Attercliffe was a manor of itself before the Conquest, inland of the manor of Hallam. In the Domesday survey it is written “Ateclive,” and it is observable, remarks Mr. Hunter, that it is placed before Sheffield—“In Ateclive and Escafeld,” as if it were the superior place. . It had the same proprietor, Sweyn; and has ever since passed along with the manor of Sheffield. - The common fields and waste grounds within the manors of Attercliffe and Darnal were enclosed in 1811, in pursuance of one of the most disgracefully selfish enclosure acts ever passed.* * There are ridiculously sculptured heads in these niches, intended to represent the twelve apostles. + Mr. Hunter has the following excellent observations on the tyrannic clauses in this act of parliament:—“Before 1811 there was, in the midst of the village of Attercliffe, a spacious green, sufficient for the exercise of the inhabitants, but not of such extent as to alarm the political speculatist for the consequence of so much land lying in an unproductive state. Of this convenience the public, were deprived. But the act further contained a clause, declaring that it should be lawful for the commissioners ‘to stop all roads not turnpike, both in the new enclosures and old P. This was drawing tight the cords of property to the utmost. This was in the true spirit of the monopolizing genius of modern times, which would leave the poor and the public as little as possible which they can claim as a right. The commissioners, whoever they were, acted up to the extent of their powers, and shut the public from paths which had been used from the times when first population settled on the banks of the Don, and from field paths the most delightful which this neighbourhood or any neighbourhood could boast. It is now irremediable. Private possession will insist upon its right, and prosecute as a trespasser the botanist. the naturalist the contemplative man, the lover of mature, and the worshipper of the God of nature, all of whom found congenial haunts in the quiet walks which lay along the right bank of the river, and all of whom must hate the noisy, crowded, dusty, or dirty road along which they are now obliged to pass whenever their steps tend in this direction. But this may serve as a warning to the public in other places to watch the clauses of enclosure bills, and to endeavour to obtain •º THE COUNTY OF YORK. 81. Nearly adjoining the church is the National School for girls, a small building from the designs of Mr. Taylor, of Leeds. The school was opened on the 26th of Jan. 1824, for the education of one hundred and twenty poor girls, on Dr. Bell's system; it is already full. The erection has been accomplished by the aid of the Central National Society in London, the Diocesan National Society in York, of his grace the duke of Norfolk, of the right hon. Earl Fitzwilliam, and others. Not far distant, stands a neat brick building of the same dimensions, for the education of boys. This was endowed with the interest of £300 by the late Mrs. Fell; it receives also, three guineas per annum from the executors of the late Mr. Clay. Here are also four unendowed alms-houses. Nearly opposite the boys’ school is the principal house in the place, belonging to Gamaliel Milner, Esq., one of the capital church burgesses, and of the ancient family of that name at Burton Grange. In the same direction is a dwelling, which for a few years was the residence of Mrs. Hoffland, and on the left of the road leading to Rotherham is seen New hall, the residence of Richard Swallow, Esq. Carbrook was formerly celebrated as the residence of the Brights, of whom, Sir John took an active part in the civil wars; he was a colonel in the parliament army, one of the six representatives of the west riding. Carbrook hall is still standing, but subdivided into several small tenements. In one of the rooms is a remarkable chimney-piece of carved wood, in the centre panel of which, there appears to be represented a saint treading the devil under his feet.* . - On the road to Worksop, and on the summit of the first hill after leaving Attercliffe, is situate the small hamlet of Darnal. In this village, a large and substantial house will be seen on the right, belonging to an old family of the name of Staniforth. Dr. Hunter observes, “The Staniforths are still here, and have a capital mansion in the heart of the village, which was built in 1723, by the father of the present inhabitant. They are a rare instance of a Hallamshire family residing upon lands possessed by their ancestors of the reign of Richard the second. They might be here much earlier, but from that period there is a regular succession of family evidences.” - e The inhabitant here referred to, Samuel Staniforth, Esq., died on the 23d of September, 1820, in the eighty-third year of his age, full of days, and high in the some little attention to the claims which they have to present. The whole of what was enclosed by this act were fifty acres of common field, and two hundred and thirty acres of waste land.”- Hallamshire, p. 239. - * Engraved by Mr. Blore in Hunter’s Hallamshire. VOL. III. Y CHAP. V. Girls’ school. Boys’ school. Carbrook. Carbrook hall. Darnal, 82 º HISTORY OF esteem of all who knew him. The house is now occupied by Mr. Porter, one of the capital church burgesses. A Wesleyan methodist chapel was built at Darnal, in 1822, and one for the Independents was erected in 1829. We conclude our remarks on this place by another quotation from Dr. Hunter:- “After the restoration, there retired to this his native village, a person named Walker. He continued to reside here till the year 1700, when he died, and was buried in the parish church of Sheffield. The tradition of the village of Darnal goes to fix on Walker, that his was the rash hand which smote off the head of the king. The evidence which was collected by the late Mr. Wilson and Mr. Goodwin, and laid before the public in successive communications to the Gentleman's Magazine, is thought by the writer of Hollis's Memoirs to fix the deed on Walker, with more certainty than attends the evidence which would fix the bloody and evil deed on any other name. It consists of recollected confessions in his dying moments, tradition of a warrant having been sent for his apprehension, which he escaped through the connivance of Mr. Spencer, of Attercliffe, joined to the fact, that in the trial of the persons who composed the court of justice, Walker was several times mentioned, as being the name of the man who actually struck the blow.” - - - The ancient parish and market town of TICKHILL is situate four miles from Bawtry, and seven from Doncaster. In 1821, the town” contained three hundred and eighty-seven houses and eighteen hundred and thirty inhabitants. Respecting the etymology of this place, nothing at all satisfactory has ever been mentioned. The story that it is derived from a brick, or a goat, is deserving of no regard; and Gale's supposition that it was anciently Ictihill, is very uncertain. The historian of the district endeavours to account for it thus: “Wick was the word by which, in the language of the common people, such a fortified mount as that at Tickhill was designated. The wick hill is what the inhabitants of Dadesley+ would necessarily call the mount at the extremity of their town. This would become Th’ wick hill, and that term might easily glide into Tickhill. When, soon after the Conquest, the Wickhill became, as we shall soon see, the permanent abode of the great Norman baron, and the head of an extensive honour, the fame and name of Dadesley might become lost in its superior consequence.”f Nothing is known of Tickhill until the period of the Conquest, when we find BOOK WI. Chapel. Tickhill. * The entire parish contained, at the same period, one thousand eight hundred and eighty-four persons. + This is the name of a village in Domesday book, the site of which Mr. Hunter satisfactorily proves must have been that of Tickhill. The name' has not entirely disappeared from the neighbour- hood, as Dadesley well is still remaining. # : Hunter's South Yorkshire, vol. i. p. 222. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 83 the principal property in this neighbourhood in the possession of Roger de Busli, who certainly either enlarged or built a castle here. The time of this warrior's decease is not exactly known, but he was certainly dead in 1098. Robert de Belesme, soon after his death, obtained from Rufus the possessions of Roger de Busli (who was his kinsman) for a great sum of money, and it appears that he stepped in between the property and some persons who had a nearer claim. We shall, at a subsequent period, find two families, each preferring a claim to this castle and honour on the ground, as it seems, of the disturbance at this period of the natural course of descent. In the succeeding reign, all the estates of Robert de Belesme, in England, were resumed by Henry I. who kept possession of Tickhill during the whole of his reign. It is said, by some authors, that the king gave all the possessions of Robert de Belesme to queen Adeliza, his second wife, for dower. It appears, that on the accession of Stephen, the earl of Eu, who claimed a descent from Beatrix, a sister of Roger de Busli, found himself sufficiently strong to assert a right to this honour against what appears to have been an improper interruption of the natural course of its descent in favour of Robert de Belesme; and that he and William de Clairfait held it, supported by the power of Stephen. But before the end of that reign, namely, between the years 1151 and 1153, it was agreed between Stephen and his rival, Henry duke of Normandy, afterwards Henry II. that Randolf, earl of Chester, should possess the honour and castle of Tickhill.” This might be only a grant for a temporary purpose. Certain it is that when Henry had established himself on the throne, he entered also on full possession of the castle and honour of Tickhill. His queen, Eleanor of Aquitaine, must have held this castle in dower, for she was the foundress of the royal chapel of St. Nicholas, within its walls. From Henry it descended to Richard I. When, in 1189, at the beginning of his reign, he made a noble provision for his brother prince John, he settled this honour upon him, with those of Wallingford and Eye. He gave him also the earldoms of Morton, Cornwall, Dorset, Somerset, Gloucester, Nottingham, and Derby; and the castles of Marlborough, Ludgershall, Bolsover, and the Peak; certain castles of the aforesaid counties and honours, however, were retained in the king's hands, and the transactions which follow show that the castle of Tickhill WąS OIle, - . - When discord arose between prince John and the persons to whom Richard committed the administration of government while he was himself absent in Pales- tine, the castles of Tickhill and Nottingham were given up to the prince while * Baronage, vol. i. p. 39. 4” CHAP. V. 84 HISTORY OF Book VI. the other party were engaged besieging the castle of Lincoln. But soon after a treaty was entered into, one of the stipulations of which was, that John should restore the castles of Tickhill and Nottingham to the king's officers by the hands of the archbishop of Rouen, to be held, the former by William de Wendewall, the latter by William Marshall, till the king's return or certain intelligence of his death. This treaty was not fulfilled; or, if it were, there was another surrender of the castles to John. A considerable army was soon raised in Yorkshire by the friends of Richard, which assembled at Doncaster. Hugh de Pudsey, bishop of Durham, conducted the siege of the castle of Tickhill. Just at this juncture, intelligence was received of Richard, not only that he was alive, but that he had returned to England. Of all the fortresses in England, only the castles of Nottingham and Tickhill now held out against the king. The garrisons affected to disbelieve the news of his return, and defended themselves with much obstinacy, particularly the garrison of Tickhill under Robert de la Mare. They were finally forced to surrender; and Ferne, following an old chronicle, says, that many of the perfidious persons who had delivered the castle of Tickhill to John, were hanged on a gibbet by Roger de Laci, to whom the command of the castle had in the first instance been committed by Richard I.” - - During the reign of Henry II. the castle and honour of Tickhill seem to have been held under the crown by the Lacis, lords of Pontefract. The manors of this honour are sometimes spoken of at this period as held of de Laci, and we find them confirming grants of lands held of this.honour. f Towards the close of the disastrous reign of John, the family of de Busli revived their claims, which were only suffered to sleep when the crown was sufficiently strong to maintain that right which at first it appears to have usurped. The claims of the earls of Eu had descended, at the close of the twelfth century, to a daughter and heir of the second Henry, earl of Eu, named Alice, who was given in marriage to Ralph de Isondon, said by some to be a son of Geffery de Lusignan, and by others a son of Hugh, eighth lord of Lusignan. With a view of strengthening himself on the side towards France, king John entered into a treaty with this Ralph, Hugh earl of March, and Geffery de Lusignan, in which, amongst other things, it was stipulated that Geffery should have Joan, the king's daughter, to wife; and that the king should restore, (this is the word used,) to Alice and her husband, the earl and countess of Eu, the castles of Tickhill and Hastings, with the appurtenances, and all rights of the house of Eu, in England.t. - . . . - : In pursuance of this treaty, a royal writ issued to John de Bassingburn, to * Laci's Nobility, p. 118. # Foedera, i. 125. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 85 deliver the castle of Tickhill to the said earl. But in those times the issuing of a royal mandate, and the execution of it, were two different things. A large portion of the baronage of England were in open opposition to the kingly authority, and one of the most potent and active of the discontented barons was Robert de Vipont. Whatever claims in right of descent from the house of Busli the earls of Eu might have, it could not be equal to a right of the same kind vested in another house of Busli. For while the earl of Eu claimed only to descend of a sister of Roger de Busli, this family showed a descent from a brother, which descent ended in an heiress about the same time that the earldom of Eu fell to Alice, and that heiress was married to Robert de Vipont. Either by force of law, or force of arms, Robert obtained possession of the castle in the latter years of king John. He was in the possession at the accession of Henry III. ; for, in the first of that reign, a royal writ was issued to him to deliver the castle of Tickhill to the earl of Eu, in fulfilment of the treaty made by king John. Vipont, however, persisted in maintaining his right; and among the public records of the fourth of Henry III. at the exchequer, are the pleadings in the cause between him and Alice, eountess of Eu. This suit continued about two years ; but, in the sixth of Henry III., there was a fine passed between the parties, by which Robert and Idonea acknowledge the right of Alice in the castle and honour of Tickhill, excepting the six knights’ fees and a half in Maltby, Sandbeck, and Kimberworth, in the county of York, and in divers manors in the county of Nottingham. Richard de Tours was the attorney of Idonea, and Geffery Balliol of the countess, of Eu. The earl died in the third of Henry III. Alice left England in the ninth of Henry III. Dugdale says that she was alive as late as the twenty-ninth year of that king's reign; and also refers to the pleas of the king's bench, 10th Edward I., to show that she forfeited this honour to the crown.” Once again at the king's disposal, the castle and honour of Tickhill was put in dower to Eleanor, the wife of prince Edward (afterwards Edward I.) eldest son and heir apparent of the king. This was in 1254. During the struggle with Montfort and the barons, prince Edward gave this honour to his cousin Henry, of Almaigne, son of Richard, king of the Romans. This was done in the forty-seventh of Henry III. 1263. Rishanger expressly asserts that the gift was made with a view to detach Henry from the interest of Montfort; and it produced the effect. There ensued, in consequence, a deadly animosity between this Henry and the whole Montfort family. The end was tragical. In 1271, Henry, of Almaigne, joined in the crusade which was then undertaken. agº * Baronage, vol. i. p. 137. WOL. III. Z CHAP. V. 86 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. As he passed through Viterbo, he went to pay his devotions in one of the churches of that city. While he was engaged in prayer, he was slain by Simon and Guy, two sons of Montfort, who escaped, and fled, it was supposed, into Norway.” In the reign of Edward I., the struggle was revived between the crown and the representative of De Busli for the enjoyment of this great fee. The countess Alice had a daughter and heir, who married Alphonso, a son of John, king of Jerusalem, earl of Eu, in her right. They had a grandson, John, earl of Eu, who, in the eighteenth of Edw. I. 1290, came before the king and council in parliament, and demanded that the king should restore to him the castles of Hastings and Tickhill, with their appurtenances, which had formerly belonged to Alice, countess of Eu, his great-grandmother. On a solemn hearing it was determined in parliament that the earl of Eu was an alien; and the return made to his claim was this: that when the king of France should restore to Englishmen the lands and tenements which they ought of right to possess within his dominions, that then the king of England would do to the earl as his council should advise him. This appears on the rolls of parliament of that year. All private claims upon this castle and honour were now cleared away; for the Viponts had passed away any right which might inhere in them by the fine to the countess Alice. Henceforth the possession was in the crown, or in parties to whom the crown made a temporary assignment of it. º The third of the great sieges of the castle of Tickhill was in the reign of king Edward II. when the barons rose under the conduct of Thomas, earl of Lancaster. “This most formidable rising,” says Mr. Hunter, “the explosion of accumulated dissatisfactions, took place in the winter of 1321 and 1322. The parliament which the earl took upon himself to summon, was to meet at Doncaster on the Sunday next after the quindene of St. Martin, which would be at the end of November. The king prohibited the meeting, but there was a considerable resort of disaffected barons, and on both sides open preparations for war. A large and powerful party on the marches of Wales burnt Bridgenorth, and took the castles of Henley and Elmley before the 15th of January. The first hostile movement of the party in the north was to attack the castle of Tickhill, and the first assault seems to have been made about the beginning of February. For three weeks the castle was besieged. It was defended by William de Anne, the constable. Many persons were slain. The king, in his letter to the pope of the 25th of February, says, populum nostrum ibidem totaliter destruendo. In his letter written at the same time to the king of France, he uses the word inhumaniter. The declaration of the treason of earl Thomas speaks of quadam ingenia ad projiciendas petras + Hunter's South Yorkshire. THE COUNTY OF Yo RK. - 87 grossas super Castrum et homines in eodum castro ea parte Domini Regis existentes. The king had, however, before the end of February, collected a force more than equal to that of the insurgents, and marched northward, with the intention of attacking them. This occasioned them to raise the siege of Tickhill. They met the king at Burton upon Trent, and for three days hindered his passage over the river. This was about the 8th day of March. At length the king passed the river, and, driving the rebel army before him, came to Doncaster by the 18th. He removed to Ponteſract on the 19th, where he got quiet possession of the earl of Lancaster's castle, who, with his army, had gone northward towards Scotland. He was met by sir Andrew de Harcla, at Boroughbridge, and being taken prisoner was brought to Pontefract, where, after a summary trial, he was beheaded on the twenty-second day of March.” The castle and honour of Tickhill were settled by Edward III. on his queen, Philippa. She died in 1369; and three years afterwards the king assigned them to John of Gaunt, with many other lands, in exchange for the earldom of Richmond, which he surrendered to the crown.” In the 18th year of that reign, the castle of Tickhill was appointed for the residence of the duchess of Bretaine, and five marks a week were to be paid to William Frank, the constable, for the expenses which this would occasion. In the fifth of Richard II., the duke of Lancaster granted to Catherine Swinford an annuity of 200 marks, payable out of the receipts of this honour, in recompense of her care in educating his daughters, Philippa and Elizabeth. After the death of the duke, the castles, &c., of Knaresborough and Tickhill were assigned to her as his widow in dower. She survived the duke only four years, dying on the 10th of May, 1403. She was buried at Lincoln. The castle and honour of Tickhill thus having become a part of the appanage of the dukes of Lancaster, was included in the act passed in the first of Henry IV. by which the dukedom of Lancaster was declared to be no part of the royal demesne, but to remain as heretofore, with all its rights, liberties, &c. as if the duke of Lancaster had not succeeded to the crown of England. f Assignments have from time to time been made of this castle and honour for temporary purposes, or in favour of particular members of the royal house. They were assigned, with other royal property, to trustees, for the performance of the wills of kings Henry VI. and VII. In the seventeenth year of James I, they were conveyed to Sir John Walker and other trustees, for the term of ninety-nine years, to the use of the king's sons Henry and Charles. They made part of the jointure settled on Queen Henrietta-Maria; and again, in 1662, on Catherine of Portugal, married to King Charles II. who held it at her death in 1705. * This was confirmed in parliament 1 Ric, II. CHAP. V. 88 . HISTORY OF BOOK WI. After the battle of Marston moor, and the surrender of York castle to the forces of parliament, the earl of Manchester sent Colonel Lilburn to reduce this castle, the garrison of which, though far from being numerous, or sufficiently provided with artillery and ammunition for sustaining a siege, was extremely oppressive to the inhabitants of the surrounding, country. After a siege of two days, the governor, Major Monkton, desired a parley, and the garrison, which consisted of only eighty musketeers, and sixty horse, surrendered themselves prisoners of war. There was only one piece of cannon mounted in the castle; but there were found one hun- dred muskets, and some powder and match. As the royalists here in garrison had plundered all the country around, they were better supplied with provisions than with military stores: there were found above one hundred quarters of corn, many barrels of salt butter, and great store of cheese, and powdered beef, besides live cattle and sheep. On the 13th of April, 1646, the parliament issued an order commanding that this castle, with several others, should be dismantled, and rendered untenable. The circular keep was in consequence demolished; but the foundations may still be traced by opening the ground. No two edifices can more nearly resemble each other than the castles of Conings- borough and Tickhill, as they appear to have been left by their founders. In both instances advantage was taken of a natural hill. Round the base of the hill a moat was drawn. On the summit an elliptical area was fenced in by a wall placed on a mound of earth, which in its circuit met a tumulus supporting a circular keep. To the areas of both there was but one entrance, and that strictly defended. But the entrance at Tickhill, instead of being by a winding and somewhat intricate passage, was directly through a gateway tower, the passage along which was defended by four doors and a portcullis. This gateway is now the only part of the ancient castle which has not been suffered to fall into decay, or which has not been removed, and it is the only part which presents a subject for the engraver. Over the entrance there is a handsome apartment, with a window towards the area, to which there was admission only from within the walls.” The area, which was surrounded by the single wall which formed with the moat the defence of the whole, was of much greater extent than the area at Coningsborough. The exact space of the whole hill, including the area, the ascent, and the moat, is six acres three roods and thirteen perches. Within this area was Eleanor's chapel, and several edifices intended for the residence of the persons connected with the castle, and sometimes of the royal or noble owners, who of course did not inhabit the keep, either here or at Coningsborough, except during the straitness of a siege. Castle. * Two views of it are given in Hunter's South Yorkshire, vol. i. p. 232. • THE COUNTY OF YORK. 89 Of the chapel, if any thing remains, it is the old door-way, over which are the words, łęeace amt ºrace 252 in this place. The northern part of Tickhill castle, with modern repairs and additions, is the seat of the honourable Frederick Lumley. A great part of the ground within the walls is converted into gardens and shrubberies. The steep declivity of the mound is formed into winding walks, leading by a gentle ascent to the summit. These walks are finely shaded with pendent wood, and display, from various openings, a delightful view of the gardens and town below: the prospects from the top of the mount are agreeable, but not extensive, as the castle and town are situated in a deep valley, bordered on every side, except towards the north, by elevated grounds, rising at a short distance. The large and lofty trees, which skirt the surrounding ditch and wall, contribute to give a venerable appearance to this interesting relic of the feudal ages. CHAP. V. In the Saxon period the population of this place must have exceeded that of any other town in the south of Yorkshire, with the single exception, perhaps, of Doncaster. The two places were very different in their origin, the latter having risen from a station of the Romans, and exhibiting in its form evidence of that origin, as well as in the peculiar feature, that it was surrounded by a mound and entered by gates; Tickhill being of Saxon or early British foundation, and showing nothing like the uniformity which is found in the operations of a cultivated people, the houses seeming to have followed the direction of the roads which conduct to the two principal places in the neighbourhood, Bawtry and Doncaster. There must have been a cause for the flow of population to this point in those early times; and though the security which the original castle may have afforded might do something, yet that hardly seems sufficient to account for it, when we see the same means of defence afforded at Mexborough and Coningsborough, and yet no considerable influx of population. Probably here was a little emporium of Saxon commerce; a place at which resided the merchant, if to a Saxon such a term may be applied, who collected the surplus produce of the higher lands of the wapentake, and conveyed them to the little port of Bawtry. “The fact for which we have to account is itself indisputable, that here was collected a population far exceeding the average inhabitants of all the Saxon manors around. There must have been some peculiar cause in operation; and in the darkness which rests on all our ante Norman history, if I have missed my way, I shall not be severely censured.” : - * Hunter's South Yorkshire, vol. i. p. 237. VOL. III. A A 90 HISTORY OF After the Norman conquest Tickhill became a place in which the spirit of commerce prevailed to a considerable extent. It appears by the events attending the sieges of the castle in the reigns of Edward II, and Charles I. that it was the great thoroughfare to Bawtry for the clothiers of the West Riding, and the lead merchants of Derbyshire. Six merchants residing here are mentioned in the Inquisitiones Nonarum in the time of Edward III. - The church was built in the reign of Richard II., and contains evident proofs that it was in whole or in part the work of merchants. The tombs of several who lived about that time still remain in it. Two of its natives, namely, William, son of William de Eastfield, and William, son of William White, became lord mayors of London, the one in 1429, the other in 1489. Dodsworth says, “It has been a corporation formerly,” by which he probably means, that there was in the middle ages one of those associations known by the name of guild-merchants. In the twenty-third of Edward I. it was summoned to send two burgesses to Parliament, when it returned John Bate and Richard Fitz-Richard de Eastfield. The decline of the mercantile character of Tickhill may be dated from the reign of Henry VII. “The market-town of Tickill,” says Leland, “is very bare, but the chirche is fair and large.” It has now lost all appearance of a commercial town, and there is thrown over it something of an air of languor and decay, though there are several good houses, the residence of gentry, and a well-attended weekly market.* - There is an annual fair held here on the 21st of August, for horses, horned cattle, and sheep. The town is situate in a valley, through which runs a brook of pure and limpid water, and lies in a straggling form, covering a large space of ground. - The environs of Tickhill are pleasant, and in most parts fertile. The vale which extends north and south from the town, and the lower parts of the rising grounds on each side, produce abundant crops of corn; but the wheat is very liable to the mildew, for which it is difficult to assign the cause.t. The present church is dedicated to St. Mary, but, at a short distance from the town, the site of All-Hallows church, or the church of All Saints f may be seen. In a deed of the year 1664 land is conveyed which is described as lying “in the north field of Tickill, at a place called All-Hallows church.” - Burton, in the Monasticon Eboracense, informs us that the church of Tickhill was given to the priory of Nostel by Thurstan, archbishop of York. But this, BOOK WI. Church. Fair. * This market Mr. Hunter is inclined to consider as ancient as the time of the Saxons. + Beauties of England and Wales—Yorkshire, p. 842. f This is supposed to have been the original parish church of Dadesley or Tickhill.—Hunter, vol. i. 237. * THE county of York. 91 Mr. Hunter says, “is a mistake; the book of the priory, now in possession of Mr. Winn, distinctly states that the gift was made by King Henry, and it is not probable that the archbishop would have given it if it had ever been in his possession. He probably confirmed the gift.” On Feb. 5, 1451, it was ordained that the repairs of the chancel shall belong to the vicar, and that the canons shall be free from them for ever. - The rights of the house of Nostel in this parish came to the crown, and were granted by King Edward VI., on May 4, 1553, to Sir James Foljambe, of Walton, in the county of Derby, knight, in consideration of faithful services rendered to himself and his father. This church is a very perfect specimen of the church building for the larger parishes of the fourteenth century, towards the end of which it was erected. It is a spacious edifice, built upon one design, nothing having been added, and little of the stone work destroyed. In plan, it consists of a nave, chancel, and side aisles, with a tower at the west end. The arms of Castile and Leon, which appear together with those of England on the tower, confine the era of its erection between the years 1373 and 1399, being evidently placed there by John of Gaunt, who called himself king of Castile and Leon. And to the same period the other armorial decorations of the tower may safely be referred.* Close to the western entrance are four shields. The first exhibits the arms of Fitz-William, a family in various ways connected with Tickhill. The second has the arms of Eastfield, a fess between three maids’ heads, and may be assigned to that William Eastfield, steward of the honour, who died in 1386, and whose monument we shall find in the church. The third has two boars’ heads in chief, which are the arms of Sandford; and we find a John Sandford, son of Sir Edward, living at Tickhill in 1394. The remaining shield has suffered more than the rest from the effects of the weather, but enough remains to show that originally it presented the arms of White, which were, sa, on a chevron between three ewers ar., as many martlets gu., and is doubtless commemorative of some one of the family of William White, a native of Tickhill, lord mayor of London in 1489. In shields above these are memorials of benefactors who are not entitled to the distinction of coat armour. The devices are, a star; and the letters R. W. with a kind of cross between them. They belong to that peculiar class of symbols called merchants' marks. * The bequest “item fabricte ecclesiae,” so often found in wills of this period, so often, that, in a formula for wills contained in the “Manuale secundum usum Sarum,” this phrase occurs, cannot be taken as a proof that the church of any place was either being built or being repaired at the time when it is found; yet it may be mentioned as in some measure confirmatory of what has been assigned as the date of this church, that one Richard Raynerson, of Tickhill, made his will in 1890, and left a hundred shillings to the norks of the church of Tickhill.—Hunter's South Yorkshire. (SHAP. V. 92 HISTORY OF book VI. Tower. Font, Interior. The tower is of moderate height, but its effect is noble and imposing. The doorway in the centre is composed of a pointed arch, with several mouldings, each of which springs from a cylindrical shaft. Immediately above the door is a noble window, having at the point of the arch a shield charged with a plain cross, which is probably a religious emblem. Above this, in a niche, is a male figure seated, and on the right of the niche is another, in armour, standing, the hands crossed upon the breast, and a younger figure near. The figure on the left of the one seated has suffered more from time, but it appears, from the attire, to have been a female. There are similar niches on the other faces of the tower. On the south, a crowned figure, with the crucifixion between the knees. On the east, a female crowned and bearing a sceptre, with a younger figure standing on her right hand; and on the north side a venerable personage in flowing robes with a globe in his left hand, a singular hat or hood turning upwards from his head.* Above the niches are small belfry windows, and the whole is finished with a battlement and pinnacles. - The side aisles have four principal windows, and seven in the clerestory. The chancel is lighted from two windows on the north and south, a central window at the east end, and two smaller east windows for the aisles. There is a want of uniformity between the windows on the north and south sides of the church. On entering by the south porch we are admitted into a spacious area, in the centre of which stands the font, exactly opposite the west door, and, till the erection of a modern gallery, the only object which this part of the church presented. It is of the usual capacious size, octagonal, sustained on a cluster of four columns. Four of its sides present shields, bearing a plain cross, the monograms JHC. M.R. and XPC. On the other sides are roses in quatrefoils. The interior of the church is very spacious. The nave is lofty, and wide, with four pointed arches on each side, and one of wide span between it and the chancel. On the point of the latter arch are the arms of Eastfield, and on each side a shield, bearing a singular device, probably intended for Fitz-William. It is three lozenges in fess, on the centre one a cross patonce, and on each of the others a pellet. These arms without the pellets appear in other parts of the church. Most of the windows have been of painted glass. The east window has still a lion in a roundel, and the inscription, Šrá iſłatrug. But in point of fenestral decoration the south aisle was by far the most splendid part of the church, and there are now the most perfect remains. “ There is an obvious reason for placing the stained glass on the sunny side of a church,” says Mr. Hunter, “to which I make no doubt our prudent ancestors were attentive.” In the window * Hunter, vol. i. p. 240. THE COUNTY OF YORK. - 93 next the door were the figures of the twelve apostles, with that portion of the creed over the head of each, which he was supposed, according to the fancy of some of the early fathers, to have contributed to that ancient symbol. Of these are CHAP. V. remaining, St. Peter; his portion of the creed is complete, “Credo in Deum, pater omnipotens.” The figure of St. John is removed, but his label remains, “Creator coeli et terræ.” The next figure holds a saltire cross, and the inscription of his label is, “ . . . . . filium unicum dominum nostrum.” This is probably intended for St. Andrew. Next to him is the figure of a pilgrim, with his hat and scallop in front. The inscription on the label is not legible, but below him is “S. Jacob.” The fourth, as they are now ararranged, is the figure of a young person with something like wings; “ . . . . . . Pilato crucifixus . . . . .” This portion of the creed is usually given to St. Philip. The fifth is a venerable person with a glory round his head, a book in one hand, and a pastoral staff in the other. A sixth figure has almost wholly perished, as have the other figures, which occupied the lower part of the window. Between this window and the next is a piscina, so that it is plain there was an altar below this splendid window, and that here was one of the four chantries founded in this church. In one of the windows on the south side of the chancel are the effigies of several bishops, arrayed in their episcopal garments, and in the other St. George. • - - Among the numerous monuments which adorn this church, the following are particularly deserving notice. - ºr - The monument of Eastfield is on the north side of the chancel. It is a large altar tomb, standing against the wall, the dado ornamented with quatrefoil com- partments. This inscription is on a brass inserted in the wall above it: #ic jaret meiſſ's >felt quantam genegralſug be bominio be #0ſbernešše at be bomore be φiſ cum b'ma 325ilippa regina ŻIngliae at be bominio be #eptfelt cum b'no Cébmunbo tuce ºbot’: at jižargareta urot ejus: quí quibemièiſſmug obiit priſii tie menšić becºmbrig anno QP’ni miſſ’mo reco ſcrptio cujug animae propicietut Peug, ?imen. Beneath the communion table is a stone, on which are the effigies of a man and woman at full length, beneath rich canopies. In the upper part of the stone is an ornamented cross between the usual monograms of our Saviour and the Virgin. At the man’s feet is a shield, with three maids’ heads couped below the shoulder. The shield at the lady's feet is quite plain. #ic jarent meiſſmug >efeſt et job’ma urot ejus, qui obierunt p’mp bit menšić jihartii, anno D'mim.cccºrrr.iii. Quorum animabus propitiétut Peug. *s Besides numerous slabs on the floor of the church, there are many anonymous tombs, which plainly belong to the fifteenth century, or earlier. WOL. III. e B B Monu- mentS, 94 History of BOOK VI. In the north aisle of the chancel is what is commonly styled a founder's tomb. An altar tomb, with quatrefoil compartments like that of Eastfield, is situated in the same part of the church. A stone in the middle aisle has a cross flory, and the monogram of our Saviour, and these ejaculatory inscriptions on labels, ºptište ſili Pei migerere mei; . . . . . agpite surgum. A stone in the chancel, narrowing towards the feet, with a cross flory on a slender shaft carved upon it between the cup and wafer on the dexter, and a sword on the sinister. re There are two others like the last, and in many parts of the pavement are fragments of this kind of gravestone, some of them very long and narrow, and questionless of an older date than the present church. On one of these fragments appears part of an ornamented canopy, and a pair of clipper's shears, which may be taken as an intimation that this town once shared in the woollen manufacture of the West riding. - - The next monumént which claims our attention is one which Leland informs us was brought hither from the church of Austin Friars. This is probably correct, as some of the parties commemorated by it, in their wills, direct that they shall be buried in the church of that religious house. It is a splendid altar tomb of alabaster, painted in a gorgeous manner. The style of the ornaments mark the age of Henry VIII, when English sculpture and architecture were beginning to be influenced by Italian models. Upon it lie the effigies of a knight and his lady. The knight is bareheaded, and on his surcoat are the arms of Fitz-William. A collar of SS hangs around his neck: the lady also wears a collar, and her head-dress is formal and square. Both the figures have suffered much injury. The inscription round the verge of the tomb is in raised letters, cut with unusual care. At the west end are the arms of Fitz-William quartering Clarel, and im- paling Nevil quartering Montagu and Monthermer. The east end is plain. The north side is concealed. On the south were three shields; in the centre Fitz- William impaling Clarel, on the other shield, Fitz-William and Clarel alone. These armorial decorations distinctly point out who are the parties to whose memory this costly monument was erected. But they are further indicated by the inscription, of which the greatest part remains: “. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tz WYLLIAM knyth and Dame Elizabeth his wife doughter and eyer untoo Thomas Clarel, the wyche sº Richard dep’tid yº 22 day of September ao D. 1478; and dame Elizabeth the 12 day of May a” Dº 1496; and also sir Thomas Fitz WyllyAM knyzt and the lady Luce NEvelL, dowhter and one of ye eyrs too the lorde John Nevell marquees Mountagew, his wyfe: the whyche sº Thomas discessid ye . . . . . . . . . tº C G tº e Such is the inscription as it now appears. Mr. Hunter says, “We may supply, THE COUNTY OF YORK. 95 without danger of error, at the beginning, ‘Pray for the soul of Sir Richard Fitz-William.’” The modern monuments are numerous. The north aisle of the chancel has been the place of sepulture of the family of Laughton, who have had good estates in this parish, particularly at Eastfield. - About a quarter of a mile to the West of Tickhill are some remains of Clarel hall, which was probably the manor-house of that manor which they held at Tickhill of the great lords of the fee. - - r In a retired valley, at the distance of about two hundred yards from the remains of this house, stood the priory of Augustine Friars. It was founded by the ancestors of the Clarels, and they and their descendants, the Fitz-Williams, were interred here, and were the only family of rank who used the chapel of this house CHAP. v. Clarel hall. Priory. as their place of sepulture. It existed in the fourth year of King Edward I. This house maintained its popularity during the two hundred and fifty years of its existence. The friars had a licence from King Edward III., in the sixth year of his reign, to enclose a certain lane near their house, one hundred and ninety- two feet in length and fifteen in breadth, and to annex the ground to their estate, making, in another direction, a road equally good. * > - Only one member of this house attained any celebrity. This was Robert Worsop, who was buried in the house in 1350. He wrote, according to Pitz, Sermons, Scholastic Questions, and an introduction to the Master of the Sentences. This house was surrendered in 1537, and there were at that time eight brethren, who lived under the superintendance of a prior. About the house were ninety fothers of lead, six bells, and sixteen ounces of plate. Leland says of this foundation, “there was a house of freres a lytyl by west without Tikhil, where lay buried divers of the Fitz-Williams, as the grand-father and father to my lord privy seale, the which be now translated to the paroch church of Tikhil.” He means the Fitz-William monument before described. “So ys Purefoy alias Clearfoy.” This is a remarkable clause: who is intended is evident from a pasage in the Collectanea, where Leland speaks of that William de Clairfait who was put into possession of the castle of Tickhill by king Stephen, by the name of Purefoy alias Clearfoy. He belonged to an age long prior to the foundation of the friary, and, if there is no mistake, it seems to show that Clarel rather engrafted his friary upon some older religious establishment, than founded it absolutely anew. Leland adds, “there were also buried divers of Clarelles in Tikhil priory.” No memorials of any of this family now remain. The words “... and bie menšig ălâatrii anno. . . ,” a portion of an old sepulchral inscription, are on a stone now built up in the wall of what was the chapel. The door is very perfect, with a pointed arch and double row of quatrefoils. The following shields of arms appear 96 - HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Hospital. Stansal, Welling- ley, and Wilsick. Manors. upon a part of the monastic buildings; viz. Fitz-William, Clarel, and Tibetot. After the dissolution, the house and its little adjacent demesne remained in the crown till the first year of Queen Mary, when, on the 21st of June, it was granted nominally to Thomas Reve and George Cotton, of London, gentlemen, but really to Thurstan Rawsthorne, of Tickhill, gentleman, to whom on the next day it was transferred by Reve and Cotton. Dodsworth informs us that Sir Nicholas Saunderson repaired an old hospital, said to have been founded by John of Gaunt, and allowed sixpence a-week to each of four old people who were permitted to reside in it. This was what is now called the Maison Dieu, near the church. There is an endowment of twenty-eight acres, which is managed by three trustees, who place four poor persons in the hospital. Tanner mentions two hospitals of ancient foundation at Tickhill, both of which existed before the time of John of Gaunt. One was called St. Leonard's, the great patron of such establishments. As early as 1225 the sad condition of the brethren inhabiting it was recommended by archbishop Walter Gray to the charity of all good people. The house built of timber in the North gate, one of the oldest in the town, is pointed out as St. Leonard's hospital. Over the door is this inscription: - diffig mat ºntºn Teſtuuſ. The other he calls an hospital, having several priests and brethren in it, situate in a marsh near the town. In 1326 a commission issued from archbishop Melton for visiting this hospital. It was afterwards annexed to the priory of Humberstone, a small benedictine house in Lincolnshire, and, as parcel of the possessions of that house, was granted in the first of Mary to Thomas Reve and George Cotton. In the northern part of the parish of Tickhill are three small places known by the names of Stansal, with Wellingley and Wilsick, which together form a town- ship. Each is scarcely more than a single house, for the population of the whole, according to the returns of 1821, was not more than fifty-four persons. . . Stansal is without doubt the Stemesale of the Clamores in Domesday; but it does not occur in the body of the survey. Nigel Fossard claimed here a carucate of the land of Seward. Hence it appears to have been a portion of the Estate of Seward, one of the co-lords of Dadesley or Tickhill. Having passed through various hands, it descended from the Copleys to their representative or heir general, Godfrey Higgins, Esq. by whom it was sold for £10,500 to Mr. Henry Jackson, of Rossington Grange, and was lately the property of Mr. Jarrat, of Doncaster. - Amongst the manors which composed the fee of Earl Harold, and passed to the Warrens, is one called in Domesday book Wilseuuic. It consisted of a single THE county of York. - 97 carucate, on which were three borderers, and there was a small portion of wood- land. This must be one of the Wilsicks of this Wapentake, of which the other is near Barnby on the Don. The probability is, that this is the place intended; as Wilseuuic does not occur among the manors on the Levels, which were attached to Coningsborough, (all of which, we may observe, are placed together at the end of the survey,) but amongst those which were in proximity to the castle. It is now the property of William Walker, Esq, barrister at law, and deputy recorder of Doncaster, who resides at Wilsick. Eastfield is an old mansion, now much modernized. It was formerly the residence of the ancient family of the Eastfields, descendants of William Eastfield, Esq. who was Lord Mayor of London in 1386. The Laughton family resided here for many years, but whether they held the estate by descent or purchase is uncertain. ROTHERHAM is a good market and parish town, pleasantly situate on the high road between Sheffield and Doncaster; being distant from the former town six, and from the latter, twelve miles. The population of this town, in 1821,” amounted to three thousand five hundred and forty-eight persons, residing in four hundred and thirty-four houses. - It is situate in a valley, near the confluence of the rivers Rother and Don, the former running on its western, the latter on its north-western side. The town is far from being handsome : the streets are narrow and irregular; and the houses, which are chiefly of stone, have in general a dull and dingy appearance. - Although the population of Rotherham is only between three or four thousand of both sexes, the town is in a thriving state. A considerable trade is carried on in coals, and other articles, by the river Don. - - In the thirty-fifth year of the reign of Edward I, the king granted to Robert de Waddesley, one market on Friday, at his manor of Roderham, and a fair there for eight days; to wit, on the eve of the day, and on the morrow of St. Edmund the archbishop, (Nov. 16) and for five days following F . CHAP. V. Mansion. Rother- ham. Market. The same monarch granted to the abbot of Rufford, a market on Monday at his manor here, and a fair yearly, to be held for eight days, as above mentioned. The market is held here every Monday, for corn, cattle, and butchers’ meat; and two annual fairs, on Monday in Whitsun-week, and on the first day of December, for horses, horned-cattle, and sheep. Every alternate Monday here is a fair for fat cattle, sheep, and pigs; and these, like the fortnight fairs at Wakefield, are well attended by graziers and butchers from very distant parts of the country. Wakefield and Rotherham, indeed, are the two greatest marts in Yorkshire for fat cattle and sheep. This town was the birth-place of Thomas Scott, usually called Thomas of º * The entire parish contained nine thousand six hundred and thirty-three persons. + Harl, MSS. 801. VOL. III. C C tt. 98 HISTORY OF Rotherham, archbishop of York. This prelate, who was born August 24, 1423, and was baptized in this church, ascended the archiepiscopal chair in the year 1480, and died in 1500: he founded at Rotherham a college, called Jesus College, for a provost, five priests, six choristers, and three masters, viz. one for music, another for grammar, and another for writing; which, at the time of the reformation, was valued at the annual rent of £58. 5s. 9%d.* By the dissolution of this college, and of several monastic establishments in the immediate neighbourhood of Rother- ham, the town suffered much loss both in business and wealth. We have gleaned the following notices respecting the patronage of the parish church :— • “ Agnes de Vescy presents to the moiety of the church of Roderham. The jurors say that the sayd Agnes de Vescy hath no right of presenting, unlesse the sayd John de Vescy, her son, shall grant her right of presentation. An° 1270. “ The abbot of Rughford presents to the moiety of the church of Roderham, 5th year of archbishop John Roman. 18th Ed. I. : “In the 16th of Edward III., the king presented Richard de Wambelle to the moiety of the church.” The benefice is a vicarage, dedicated to St. Ann, and valued, in the Liber regis, at £16. 8s. 6d. It is in the patronage of Lord Howard of Effingham. The church is a large and handsome structure, comprising a nave and chancel, with aisles and transepts; and in the centre rises a tower, with a lofty octagonal spire. The south-side of the nave has a richly ornamented porch, with double buttresses at the angles, terminating in slender crocketed pinnacles. The windows, three in number, are of four lights, with perpendicular tracery, and a crocketed weather cornice, resting on grotesque antique figures. The transepts are in a similar style of architecture, the principal south window having six lights. The chancel has two pointed windows, less decorated than those of the nave; and the east window is extremely clumsy, of seven lights, with a transom. The tower rises from the intersection of the nave, chancel, and transepts. At each angle are double buttresses panelled, and in each face two pointed windows. The whole is embattled and adorned with crocketed pinnaches, arranged at regular intervals. From this tower rises an octagonal spire, of considerable altitude. The exterior of this church is very handsome, and undoubtedly the most complete specimen of the ecclesiastical architecture of the sixteenth century in this part of England.j: * BOOK WI. Jesus Col- lege. Church. • The statutes ofthis college in Tanner's time were preserved in the treasury of Sidney college, Cambridge. # It was much damaged by lightning in 1830, and a considerable part of it was obliged to be taken down and rebuilt. The interior of the church was thoroughly repaired at the same time. - # The late Mr. Rickman characterized this church as “one of the finests perpendicular churches in the north. Its execution is excellent, and the design is in every part very rich; it is also in very good preservation.” . THE COUNTY OF YORK. 99 The interior is spacious, and fitted up in a very handsome manner. The nave is separated from the aisles by four pointed arches, resting on columns, with curious leafed capitals. The roof is flat, and panelled with excellent bosses. Round three sides of the nave, and under the tower portion,” are galleries. The roof of the tower is of stone, springing from rich corbels. - *The chancel is divided from the aisles by two pointed arches, resting on octagonal columns. The roof is of wood, similar to the nave. The pulpit, situate in the nave, is handsome ; it is of oak, with a noble sounding- board, all apparently of the seventeenth century. The font, f at the west end of the church, is neat. = - The monuments are neither numerous nor curious. On the north side of the chancel is a tablet of marble, with a basso relievo of three females weeping round. an urn, by Flaxman. It is to the memory of S. Buck, Esq. recorder of Leeds, who died on the 8th of the kalends of August, 1806, aged sixty. In the north aisle of the chancel is a very depressed arched altar-tomb, with strawberry leaves, &c. Within the arch is a brass plate, with a man kneeling, and two sons, and a woman and two daughters. It is to R. Swifte, Esq., and Ann, his wife, 1539. There are remains of two altar-tombs in the north transept; and before this portion of the church is an exquisite screen of oak, much mutilated. On some old stalls in this church are the arms of Wombwell and Wentworth. Five chantries were founded in this church:—1st. Holy Cross, founded in 1410, and valued at the dissolution at £10. 12s. 1d. per annum; 2d. St. Mary’s, valued at 73s. 4d. ; 3d. Our Lady’s, valued at £4. 6s. 1d.; 4th. St. Catherine's, valued at £4. ; and 5th, the chantry of H. Carnebull, valued at £13. 6s. 8d. *- Mr. Lodge says, in his Illustrations of British History, that the manor of Rotherham belonged to the Talbots, earls of Shrewsbury; from them it passed by an heiress to the Howards. Henry Howard, the sixth duke of Norfolk, settled it upon his second duchess, Jane Bickerton. She left it to her second son, Frederick Henry Howard, who gave it to the Effingham branch of this illustrious family, in whom it is now vested. - Leland’s account of this town is as follows:— - - “I enterid into Rotheram by a fair stone bridge of iiii arches, and on hit is a chapel of stone, wel wrought. - “Rotheram is a meately large market towne, and hath a large and fair collegiate chirch. The college was institutid by one Scotte, archbishop of Yorke, otherwise CHAP. V. Interior. Monu- mentS. * In this gallery is an excellent organ. * The old font (perhaps a relic of the Saxon church) has been ejected, and is now in the church- łyard. Another proof of the lamentable want of taste in churchwardens and parish jobbers. t “A stone in the choir of Rotherham church covers her bowels.”—Miller's Doncaster. Manor. 100 HISTORY OF BOOK WI, Chapels. Grammar school, Dispen Sary. Bridge. Brink- worth, Catcliffe, Datton, Orgreave, Tinsley. caullid Rotheram, even in the same place where now is a very fair college, sumptuusly buildid of brike, for a provost, v prestes, a schole master in song, and vſ chorestes, a schole master in grammar, and another in writinge. “Though betwixt Cawoode and Rotheram, be good plenti of wood, yet the people burne much yerth cole, bycawse hit is plentifully found ther, and sold good a ,'º', *I 2 4- v. * | chepe. A mile from Rotheram be veri good pittes of cole. “In Rotheram be veri good smithes for all cutting tooles.” + . There is a meeting-house for Dissenters, built in the year 1705; and another, of a far more recent date, for the Wesleyan Methodists: to the first is annexed a school for the education of thirty poor children of the parish of Rotherham. The minister for the time being is the governor, and admits the children; but the master is appointed by the trustees of the founder, Thomas Hollis, of London, Esq., by whose munificence the school is liberally endowed. This institution is kept under excellent regulations; and a copy of the rules of the school is delivered to the parents of the children on their admittance. Here is a free grammar-school, founded in 1584, by Laurence Woodrett and Anthony Collins, Esqrs., formerly merchants of London. The school is open to the boys of the town, free of expense, for classics only. This school has a claim, in its turn, to the fellowship and two scholarships at Emmanuel College, Cambridge, founded by Mr. Frieston, in case the same are not occupied from the free-school at Normanton. There is a fellowship also at Lincoln College, Oxford. To this school there is a crown payment of £10. 15s. 4d. per annum to the master. The master's salary, including house rent, &c., is £30 per year; besides which, he has a gratuity from the feoffees or trustees. A dispensary was established here in 1805, and in this town one of the earliest public libraries was established. In Jesus gate, an elegant semicircular building, with Ionic pilasters, &c., was erected in 1829. public library, and the dispensary. - - Opposite is the Town-hall, a large handsome building of stone, erected about four years ago. It is spacious, and the interior vrey commodious. There is a good bridge of five pointed arches here, and on the centre pier is an elegant chapel, now used as a gaol. This chapel was probably unendowed, as it is not noticed in the valor of Henry VIII. There are several townships in this parish:-Brinkworth has a population of two hundred and twenty-five persons. Catcliffe has two hundred and two inhabitants. Patton two hundred and twenty-five, Orgreave forty-seven, and the township of Tinsley a population of three hundred and twenty-seven persons. In the latter village is a chapel, valued in the parliamentary return at £111. It is held with the vicarage of Rotherham. It is neat, and has a small shingled spire. , º 3 ¥, ‘. . .3; Vº . . ; £º. “s. . . . ºº's It contains the grammar - school, § a *.*. -- º- o -- ſ-s ɺº - - dº THE COUNTY OF YORK. - 101 The township of Greasborough * has a population of one thousand two hundred and fifty-two persons. * * - . The ancient chapelry here is a curacy, valued in the king's books at £5. 10s. It is in the patronage of Earl Fitzwilliam. It is an ancient edifice, and possesses the right of sepulture. - …” The extent of population in this part of the parish caused the erection of a new church, the benefice of which is a curacy, in the patronage of the vicar of Rotherham. The first stone of this elegant edifice was laid by Lord Milton, September 29, 1826, and it was consecrated by the archbishop of York, June 25, 1828. It consists of a nave, chancel, and a good tower at the west end, with a pierced battlement and crocketed pinnacles at the angles. The interior is very neatly fitted up, but possesses no galleries. It will contain seven hundred and eighty-five persons, viz. four hundred and fifteen in free seats, and three hundred and seventy in pews. The grant from the commissioners was £2000, the remainder being supplied by subscription. Beneath the church is a large and commodious apartment used as a school room. - Kimberworth is a township in this parish, with a population of three thousand seven hundred and ninety-seven persons. It possesses no object worthy of notice. Thundercliffe Grange, an elegant modern structure, with charming pleasure grounds, is situate in this township, at the distance of four miles from Rotherham. This place was anciently an appendage to the abbey of Kirlestead, in Lincolnshire, and was purchased by Thomas Rokeby, Esq. at the dissolution. From this gentleman it descended to the family of the Wombwells, and from them to that of the Greens. William Green, M.D. of York, the last of that family who had it in possession, sold it to Hugh Meller, Esq. of Ecclesfield. That gentleman left it to his son, John Meller, Esq. of whom it was purchased by Thomas Howard, the third earl of Effingham, then lord of the manors of Kimberworth and Rotherham. This earl removed hither from the Holmes, where he had for some years resided; and about the year 1777 began to erect the present handsome edifice, only a few yards from the site of the ancient mansion. On his decease without issue it passed to his brother Richard, the fourth earl of Effingham, who made it for many years his summer residence. He died in 1816. It is now in the occupation of the earl of Effingham, K.C.B. - In the neighbourhood of Rotherham are several handsome houses, especially Clifton house, the residence of Mrs. S. Walker, and Gilthwaite hall, belonging to J. Outram, Esq. - The village or hamlet of Masborough, in this township, is separated only from * The remaining townships in this parish are in the north division of this wapentake. VOL. III. D D CHAP. V. Greas- borough. New church. Kimber- worth. Seats. 102 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Rotherham by the bridge, and exceeds that town in the number of its inhabitants, . of whom a great proportion are employed in Messrs. Walker's iron works, which, within the space of about seventy or eighty years, have obtained a distinguished celebrity. At these works are manufactured cannon of the largest calibre, and almost every kind of cast-iron article, with many of wrought iron, as bar, sheet, slit, or rod iron. Tinned plates, and steel of every sort, are also here manu- factured in great quantities. The iron bridges of Sunderland and Yarm were cast at the founderies of Masborough.* The coal and ironstone for the blast furnaces and founderies are chiefly supplied from the mines on the estates of the earl of Effingham, and those of Earl Fitzwilliam. - - These celebrated iron works were begun in the year 1746, by Mr. Samuel Walker, and his brothers, Aaron and Jonathan, and ever since that time have been pro- i. gressively increasing. The following account of that worthy and enlightened character, whose genius and assiduity brought them nearly to their present state of perfection, is extracted from Dr. Millar's History of Doncaster:—“If the love of social order, the most unremitting industry, the improvement and advance- ment of the human genius, and a truly christian and exemplary conduct in life and manners, are objects to be pursued, few characters can, or ought, to stand higher in the estimation of mankind than that of Mr. Samuel Walker. He was born in the year 1716, at Hill Top, in the parish of Ecclesfield; his parents dying when he was about twelve years old, he was left, with his brothers above- mentioned, and four sisters, without any ample means for their subsistence, and none for education; the first deficiency, however, was remedied, by the early industry of the orphan family, and by diligence and close application, without any other assistance than from a few books he acquired the means of purchasing, he qualified himself for keeping a school at Gunnowside, where, for some time previous to the year 1746, he taught reading, writing, and arithmetic, and was occasionally employed in surveying, making sun-dials, and other things, which shewed genius, and bespoke a rising character. - - - - -- “Mr. Samuel Walker, from early life, was a truly religious character, of a thoughtful, serious disposition, and seldom indulged himself in levity, or any species of dissipation. From his infancy he was brought up in the practice of, and attention to, the rites of the Church of England: afterwards he was attached to the Methodists of the Rev. John Wesley's persuasion; but, for the last thirty years of his life, he was a dissenter of the independent denomination; and built, chiefly at his own expense, a place of worship for that description of christians at Masborough, * “The bridge at Yarm unfortunately fell in through a defect in the masonry.”—Grave's Hist. Cleve- land, Append. No. I. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 103 in the parish of Rotherham, where, from the establishing of the works, he resided.”* - - - - In the meeting-house a monument is erected to his memory, with the following appropriate inscription, composed by the celebrated poet, the Rev. William Mason 2 who was his intimate friend, and knew how to appreciate his character:— “To the memory of Samuel Walker, Esq. the principal proprietor of those extensive iron works, first founded at Masborough, in the year 1746, which now afford so singular an example both of the public and private benefit which may arise, even from the smallest beginnings, when favoured by Divine Providence, and prosecuted with integrity, foresight, regularity, and an active and comprehen- sive genius. To these qualifications, he added the domestic virtues of an affectionate husband and kind parent. He also revered the constitution of his country with the spirit of a true Englishman; and practised the duty of universal benevolence with the zeal of a sincere christian. He was born in 1716; died May 12, 1782, aged 66, and was buried in the cemetery which he built for his family. A widow, four sons, and three daughters, survive him. Out of gratitude and reverence for such a father, his sons, at their joint expense, erect this monument.” There is also in this place an academical institution, or college, for the education of protestant dissenters. It is called, The Rotherham Independent Academy, because it stands connected with that denomination of dissenters which are termed Independents. Its object is to educate young men of piety and talent, who may be qualified in a respectable manner to officiate in those independent congregations which are deprived of their ministers in the general course of mortality, or are otherwise destitute of regular ministrations. The institution was opened November 5, 1795, under the superintendence of the Rev. Dr. Williams, who presided as the divinity tutor. The present building, erected for the purpose, is situate a little above the meeting-house which was built by the late Samuel Walker, Esq. It stands on a rising ground, in a salubrious and pleasant spot, and is of a form the most convenient. Exclusive of the boarding tutor's house adjoining, it is calculated to accommodate sixteen students, containing twenty-two rooms, above which are lodging rooms and studies, and two large rooms below, a dining room and library, which also serve for lecturing in at the stated hours. The library contains about one thousand volumes, formed by presents of liberal friends, on subjects of divinity, science, and general literature. From the same liberality a good foundation is laid for a competent philosophical apparatus. A similar institution, entitled The Yorkshire Academy, had been for many years at Heckmondwike, which was afterwards removed to Northouram, near Halifax; but that becoming extinct, through several gentlemen in London with- drawing their support, and recommending it to their friends in Yorkshire to take up the cause on a new plan, the present place, and mode of education, was, * Millar’s History of Doncaster, p. 360. CHAP. V. Inde- pendent Academy. 104 HISTORY OF IBOOK WI. Thorne. Market. after much deliberation, fixed upon. The friends of this institution, considering that the present age requires, perhaps, more than ever, that ministers of the gospel should be acquainted with the different branches of literature; and finding that the national seminaries were not accessible to dissenters without renouncing their principles, aimed at not only preserving, but also enlarging, the privileges of students.” - The term of study is four years; but the managers have a discretionary power of continuing it longer. The course of studies, under the direction of two tutors, comprehends the languages, Latin, Greek, and Hebrew ; English composition; the principles of mathematical knowledge; geography and astronomy; logic and moral philosophy; the most necessary and useful parts of natural philosophy; church history and divinity, in the largest extent of this term. On chemistry and experi- mental philosophy, professed lecturers are occasionally introduced, whose province it is to enter more at large into these subjects. The time for public teaching is from six in the morning till one in the afternoon. The institution is supported by voluntary subscriptions, and is under excellent regulations. - The parish and market town of Thorne is pleasantly situate about a quarter of a mile from the south bank of the Don. It is six miles distant from Crowle, eleven from Doncaster, and thirteen from Howden. The population of the parish amounts to three thousand four hundred and sixty-three persons. Since the cutting of the Stainforth canal, which passes near the side of the town, the trade has considerably increased, and vessels now pass regularly from this town to London. . The venerable antiquary Leland has given us the following particulars of this town in his time — - “From Heathfield to Thurne village, two miles, passing over an arm of Dune. By the chyrch garth of Thurne is a praty pile or castelet well dikid, now usid for a prison for offenders in the forestes, but sum tyme longging to the Mulbrays as Thurne did. ar * “The ground al about Thurne is ather playn, more, or .enne." From Thurne, by water, to the great lake caullid the Mere, almost a mile over, a mile or more. This mere is fulle of good fisch and foule.”-f . The castle noticed by the above antiquary is obliterated, and no traces remain, except the foundations on the hill on which it was situate. It is now called Pill hill, and is the property of J. Benson, Esq. - A market is held in this town every Wednesday, and two fairs on the first Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday after June 11 and October 11. In the Harleian MSS. f is a letter from Sir Henry Lee to Sir Francis Walsingham, dated from Tourne, Feb. 23, 1586, where, amongst other particulars, he solicited that her . * Beauties of England and Wales. + Itin. i. 38. f No. 286. THE COUNTY OF YORK. -- 105 majesty “would grant the inhabitants of this town (being her tenants) a market and fair.” Richard Cromwell was the first who granted them privileges, but on the accession of Charles II. it was annulled, and a new one granted.* The manor of Thorne has belonged to several proprietors. In the thirty-third year of the reign of Edward I. William Gumbaud was possessed of it, and in the first year of the reign of Edward III. it belonged to John de Mowbray. In the twenty-first year of the same reign, it was part of the extensive estates of John de Warren. The manor was sold by Charles I. in the fourth year of his reign, to Sir Cornelius Vermuyden; it is now the property of the marquess of Hertford. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, valued in the Liber regis at £48, 17s. 10d. ; in the parliamentary return at £72. It is in the patronage of the earl of Portmore. The church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, is a neat edifice, apparently erected in the early part of the sixteenth century. It comprises a nave and aisles, chancel and south chapel, and an embattled tower at the west end. There are a few crocketed pinnacles dispersed on different parts of the building, and on the south side is a good porch. The interior is neatly fitted up, and in the western gallery .Nº sº. is a small organ. CHAP. V. Manor. Church. There is a neat chapel in this town belonging to the Independents, and one of Chapels. more recent erection used by the Wesleyan Methodists. The Society of Friends also have a meeting-house. A good free-school was founded here by H. Travis, Esq. in 1706. The estates belonging to it produced, in 1786, £34, 16s. 4d. Here are the seats of H. Ellison, and R. Pemberton Milnes, Esqs. CoNINGSBOROUGH is an ancient parish town, situate on the banks of the river Don, five miles from Doncaster, and seven from Rotherham. In 1821, there was a population of one thousand one hundred and forty-two persons in this village. Like the adjacent town of Doncaster, this place is of considerable antiquity...f. * Peck's Bawtry and Thorne, 76. + Comingsborough has traditionary claims to a very high antiquity. It still shows a mound near the castle wall, which is maintained, by tradition, to be the tomb of Hengist. Supposing Langtoft's asser- tion that Egbert came to spend his Whitsuntide here to be merely his own invention, it proves that in the reign of Edward I, such traditions respecting Coningsborough were current as would afford some sanction to the fiction. Supposing all that Geffery of Monmouth, in the reign of Stephen, relates of Coningsborough to be fiction, he was doubtless borne out by traditionary belief as to the main fact. “It will be perceived,” says Mr. Hunter, “how, as we ascend beyond the time of Ethelred or Alfred, the evidence becomes of a more shadowy and unsubstantial character. Certain facts in the early part of this inquiry may be received with a confidence equal to that which we give to state papers and the most authentic documents respecting the transactions of times near our own day. But in respect of the period before their time, not only are the inferences liable to great uncertainty, but the docu- ments from which they are drawn are themselves questionable. If we may place confidence in Geffery, VOL. III . . E E Schools. Seats. Conings- borough. 106 HISTORY OF . By the Britons it was called Caer Conan; by the Saxons, Conanburghe; and, by Robert of Gloucester, Borough-Conan. Caer, Cair, Kair, signifies a place of strength.* The Welsh denominate a city, Caer, Dinos, &c. In the old Irish tongue, the same word implies, “a throne, an oracle, and a place of address,”f and is sup- posed to have its origin from the Gadher of the Hebrews, a wall. In this instance, as well as in many others, the Saxons substituted for the British Caer, their bunzh, a word bearing the same import. Whence Conan may be derived is not so manifest; and whether its origin may be attributable to locality, or as being the residence of some eminent person of that name, we are equally ignorant. Had we evidence to prove that Conan was attached subsequently to the British era, we might be induced to draw it from the Saxon Cyning, rea, in which case it would signify the royal city, or town of the king. To the latter mode of derivation the orthography in Domesday gives some countenance, Coningesburg. Konnen, in the Teutonic, or High-Dutch tongue, and Conan, in the Saxon, imply power or BOOK WI. there was in the fifth century, that is before the Saxons had obtained a settlement in Britain, a fortress here, and it was the scene of some very memorable transactions. - “ Divested of a portion of the dramatic character which Geffery has given to his narrative, the facts are these. Aurelius Ambrosius is made king by the Britons, then oppressed by the Saxon power. Hengist, with a large army, prepares to fight with him in a field called Maisbeli, through which he knows that Ambrosius intends to pass. Ambrosius marches with his army thither, knowing that Hengist was prepared to meet him. A great battle is fought in that field, in which Eldol, duke of Claudiocester, distinguished himself on the side of Ambrosius. The Saxons are defeated, and Hengist flies to Caercoman now called Cunungeburg. Ambrosius pursues him, slays some of his troops in the pursuit, and makes slaves of others. I shall just observe upon this part of the narrative, that this account of the pursuit is scarcely consistent with the belief that by Maisbeli, Geffery intended those level lands on the left bank of the Don between Coningsborough and Mexborough, for if that had been the scene of the battle, there would have been but a very short pursuit of the flying army. The historian proceeds: when Hengist saw that Ambrosius followed him, he would not enter the town, (oppidum,J but getting together his people in order, he prepared for a second battle. When Matthew of West- minster tells this same story, he makes an interval of two years between the first and second fight. In other respects Matthew's narrative agrees with Geffery's, and he uses the very words of Geffery. In another battle with Ambrosius the Saxons would have been successful had not a troop of Armoric horsemen arrived. Eldol and Hengist come to an encounter in single combat. Eldol takes Hengist by the nose-hole, nasale, of his helmet, and drags him from amongst his people, who are then entirely routed, and fly in all directions. Octa, the son of Hengist, flies to York; and Eosa, his kinsman, to Alud. Ambrosius having thus gained the victory, he took wrbem Comani, Coningsborough, and re- mained there three days. He ordered the dead to be buried, and the wounded to be taken care of. It next became a question what should be done with Hengist. Eldad, bishop of Claudiocester, brother to . Eldol, when he saw Hengist standing before the king, ordered the rest to be silent, and spoke thus : ‘Though all should vote for the liberation of this man, yet would I cut him in pieces;’ comparing himself to, Samuel, and Hengist to Agag. Upon this, Eldol took a sword, led him out of the city, and cut off his head. But Ambrosius, a mild and gentle man, ordered him- to be decently buried, and a mound of earth to be raised over his body, according to the custom of the pagans. The history pro- ceeds to relate how Ambrosius then led his army to York, when Octa immediately surrendered himself.” * * Sommer's Cant. p. 8. t Camden’s Brit. vol. ii. p. 298. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 107 knowledge, and are supposed to be synonymous with the Greek Ai Eéovotal, and Avváoat, the powers. The earliest manorial proprietor of this village and its dependencies on record, we presume, was Harold, a Saxon earl, and successor of Edward the Confessor, as CHAP. V. king of England. He was the second of that name, and son of the famous Godwin, by Githa, daughter of Duke Wolfe, and sister to Sweyne the younger, king of Denmark. The limited period in which this brave but ambitious potentate swayed the sceptre of Britain, was tormented by a succession of circumstances at once vexatious and ruinous. The possessions of the Godwin family were extremely extensive ; but whether what Harold held here and in the neighbourhood, were his by right of his crown or inheritance, we know not. According to the Winchester rolls, it would seem, that he held in Coningsborough, subject to the imposition of Danegeld, five carucates of land, and land to five ploughs. William de Warren had then five ploughs in his demesne here, together with twenty-one villanes, and eleven borders, having eleven ploughs. There were also a church and a priest, and two mills, worth 30s. Pasturable wood, one mile long and one broad. At the time of the Domesday survey, Coningsborough belonged to William de Warren, the son-in-law of the Conqueror, and the first earl of Warren and Surrey. It was given to him with the fee entire as Harold had possessed it. He was also, by descent from Herfastus, brother to Gunnora, wife of Richard duke of Normandy, allied in blood to the king, under whom he had a chief command at the battle of Hastings. He was therefore one of the most illustrious of the persons who accom- panied the duke of Normandy in his conquest of England. Not only was Conings- borough and its fee given to him, but he had a mansion there, which appears to have been his usual residence when in England. This is not to be collected from Domesday book, where there is no mention of an aula. But it may be inferred with a certainty little inferior to that which the appearance in that record of the words aula, castellum, or burgenses, would produce, from the following passage in the foundation charter of a monastery, which, in 1078, this earl erected at Lewes, in Suffolk:—Ita quod duo hospitia mihi et heredibus meis ibi per annum retinui, unum in eundo in Everwicsire, et alterum in redeundo. The monks were to find him lodging as he went and returned to and from Yorkshire, that is, to his paternal seat in Normandy. It is a fair inference from this, that when in England, his abode was in Yorkshire. But in 1078, he had nothing in Yorkshire but the Coningsborough fee, for Wakefield and its dependencies were given to the family afterwards.” - * Hunter. 108 * - HISTORY OF BOOK WI. The second earl of Warren enjoyed the honours and possessions of the family nearly fifty years, dying in 1138.* -- - The third earl sided sometimes with Stephen and sometimes with the empress. He held the Warren lands about nine years, and was slain in Palestine in 1147. He left only one daughter his heir, who survived him about fifty years. The heralds of the Tudor reigns assigned him another daughter, and allowed her supposed descendants the quartering of Warren. But that there was a sole daughter and Chapel. heir appears from the admitted fact, that the titles and possessions of her family descended undiminished on her and her issue. - This great lady could be given to no husband but one of royal extraction. She was first married to William de Blois, one of the sons of King Stephen, who died without issue in 1159. She was afterwards given by Henry II. to his half- brother Hameline, an illegitimate son of Geffery, earl of Anjou, for whom an ample provision was thus made. He was earl of Warren and Surrey till his death in 1202, in the reign of King John...f Earl Hameline was much in this part of Yorkshire, and to him Mr. Hunter is inclined to attribute the erection of the keep, and of most of the other parts of the castle of Coningsborough as it now appears. Certain it is that he endowed a chapel within the castle. The terms of the charter imply that it was a first endow- ment, not an augmentation of revenue; whence it may be inferred that he founded as well as endowed it. This chapel was dedicated, it appears, to the apostles Philip and James ; the endowment only fifty shillings a year, which was to be paid from the mills at Coningsborough. These mills are also mentioned in the account of Conings- borough contained in Domesday book. Hameline's son and heir, William, succeeded. He enjoyed the honours and lands for nearly forty years. He married the eldest of the sisters and heirs of the Mareschals, earls of Pembroke. She was the widow of Hugh Bigod, earl of Norfolk. To this lady the staff of marshal of England was delivered by the king as her right of inheritance. The custody of the castle of Coningsborough was committed to her care in 26 Henry III., which was during the minority of her son. * “This earl, between the years 1091 and 1097, gave the church of Coningsborough and all its depen- dencies to his father's monastery of Lewes. The date of this donation, about which there has been some misconception, is to be collected from the names of the witnesses, among whom are three bishops, named Ralph, Gundulph, and Walkeline. These bishops were contemporary in their respec- tive sees only during that interval.”—Hunter. g f Earl Hameline appears to have spent more time in England than any of his predecessors; and the title of semeschal of Coningsborough, attached to the name of Ote de Tilli, who built the cross at Don- caster, is a pertinent proof that he had there a regularly constituted household. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 109 Aº The possession of Coningsborough was in Earl William and his two successors, both named John, with a slight interruption from an accidental cause, through the long space of one hundred and forty years. Perhaps this is an unequalled instance, the average being forty-seven years in three successive proprietors. John, the seventh earl of Warren, married Alice, sister, by the mother's side, to King Henry III, to whose party he occasionally adhered, and at other times sided with the barons against him. - John, the eighth and last earl of Warren, was the grandson of the former, his father having been killed in a tournament in 1286. He was about eighteen at the death of his grandfather in 1304, and at his death, in 1347, there was an end of the connexion of the name of Warren with Coningsborough. To this earl Edward the First gave his grandaughter, Joan de Barr, in marriage. The marriage was issueless, and not a happy one. Both parties earnestly sued for a divorce, but the law of the church was uncompromising. It could not, however, prevent the earl from estranging himself from her, and she lived on a revenue derived from the Warren estates. “One intrigue of this earl,” says Mr. Hunter, “produced consequences which threatened, for a time, a premature separation of Coningsborough from the pos- sessions of the house of Warren. The northern border of the lands in Yorkshire, forming the Warren fee, touched in a great extent of its course on the fee of the great Lord of Pontefract. Disputes seem from time to time to have arisen between these great chiefs; and in the year 1268 it appears that, in a dispute about a pas- ture, the Warrens and the Lacis had armed each their retainers, and prepared for one of those lawless encounters, of which there are several instances in our baronial history, but were prevented by the king. Alice de Laci, the heiress of Pontefract, was of about the same age with the eighth earl of Warren. She was given in marriage to Thomas, earl of Lancaster, grandson to Henry III., who lived for the most part at her castle of Pontefract. This lady, on the Monday before Ascension- day, in 1317, was carried off by violence, and conveyed to a castle of the earl of Warren, at Reigate, in Surrey. There was much mystery in this affair at the time; and the antiquary and historian, it is to be feared, too often deceives himself with the hope of throwing light upon transactions which were wrapped in impenetrable darkness at the time of their occurrence. Concerning the fact that she was taken to the earl’s castle at Reigate, against the consent of her husband, there is no room for doubt. Certain also it is, that she was divorced by her indignant husband, and that the earl of Lancaster proceeded to avenge himself by laying siege to the castles in Yorkshire belonging to the earl of Warren, which must have been Coningsborough, and Sandal near Wakefield, a writ issuing from the king, dated November 3, 1317, that he should cease from doing so; and further, it VOL. III. F F CHAP. V., 110 l HISTORY OF Book VI. is certain that when, in 1318, the earl of Lancaster engaged to pardon every one all trespasses and felonies done against him, he made an exception of the trespasses and felonies of the earl of Warren. º “In the same year, 1318, the earl of Lancaster, who was then in the plenitude of his power, took from the earl of Warren a grant of his manor of Wakefield for the life of the earl of Warren : if a make-peace, it must be allowed a noble one; but it is also certain, that the earl of Lancaster obtained also Coningsborough, thus banishing his rival entirely from the north. We have several evidences showing his occupation of it between 1317 and 1321. In 1322 the discontents of the earl of Lancaster drove him into open rebellion. Amongst others to whom the king's warrant issued to pursue and take the earl, was the earl of Warren. And we find the name of the earl of Warren among the peers present in the castle of Ponte- fract, when sentence of death was passed on the earl of Lancaster, and he was led forth to execution.” - i - On the death of the earl of Lancaster, these lands escheated to the crown. In the first year of Edward III. 1327, a warrant issued to the king's escheator north of Trent, not to meddle with the castles of Sandal or Coningsborough, or any of the manors of Wakefield, Thorne, Sowerby, Hatfield, and Stainford, to which the earl of Warren laid claim, they being, by consent of the said earl, and of Henry, earl of Lancaster, who was brother of earl Thomas, and his next heir in blood, to remain in the king's hands, to be delivered to the said Henry. The grant of his Yorkshire lands to the earl of Lancaster had been made, by the earl of Warren only pro termino vitae, that is of himself. Separated from his wife, he cohabited with one Maud de Neirford, a lady of rank in the county of Norfolk; and if either of his pleas would have been allowed to enable him to obtain a divorce from Joan de Barr, proximity of blood and pre- contract with Maud, it appears that she would have become countess of Warren. She had produced him two sons, who were called John de Warren and Thomas de Warren; and on these sons it was the desire and design of the earl that Conings- borough, and his other property north of Trent, should descend, while the rest was left to take the course appointed by law, and become annexed to the property of the earls of Arundel. - - e - For this purpose he conveyed to the king “castra et villas meas de Coningsburg et Sandal; et maneria mea de Wakefeld, Hatfeld, Thorne, Sowerby, Braithwell, Fishlake, Dewsbury, et Halifax.” This charter is dated on the Thursday next after the feast of St. Peter and St. Paul, in the ninth year of Edward II. 1316. That feast day is the 29th of June, and on the 4th of August following, which was * South Yorkshire, i. p. 109. THE COUNTY OF YORK. m the tenth year of Edward II, the king by charter, having its teste at Lincoln, reconveys all that had been passed to him to the earl for life; remainder to Maud de Neirford for life; remainder to John de Warren, son to the said Maud, and the heirs male of his body; remainder to Thomas de Warren, another son of the said Maud, and the heirs male of his body; remainder to the heirs of the body of the earl lawfully begotten; and in the event of the extinction of these parties to revert to the king. - - - But this extraordinary disposition did not take effect in the manner which the earl intended; for the two sons died before the earl, without leaving issue; and he also survived Maud de Neirford. In virtue of the earl's will, the four parties named in it being dead, the inhe- ritance of the earl of Warren's lands lying north of Trent came to the crown. On the 6th of August, 1347, only seven and thirty days after the death of the earl, a royal patent was signed at Reading, per manus Lionelli filii nostri carissimi custodis Angliae, the king being then in France, by which all the northern pos- sessions of the deceased earl were settled on Edmund of Langley, a younger son of the king, and the heirs male of his body, with remainder to John of Gaunt and Lionel of Antwerp, and their heirs male respectively; remainder to the crown.* This prince was for some time in the wars of the Black Prince, in the south of France. - He was created by his father earl of Cambridge; but in the ninth year of Richard II. he was advanced to the illustrious title of duke of York, and died in 1401. He was married to one of the two daughters and coheirs of Peter, surnamed the Cruel, king of Castile and Leon, the other being married to John of Gaunt, his brother. - . After her decease, he married a daughter of Thomas Holland, earl of Kent, who was half-brother to king Richard II. and grandson to Edmund of Wood- stock. She outlived the duke, and married, after his decease, three husbands in succession, the Lord Willoughby of Eresby, the Lord Scrope, and the Lord Vesey. Edward, the elder of the two sons of Edmund, became, after his father's death, duke of York, but he is better known in our history by another title, duke of Aumerle (Albemarle). He adhered closely to the house of Lancaster, and was much trusted by them. He accompanied Henry V. in his great expedition to France, and lost his life in the battle of Agincourt. He left a widow, Philippa Mohun, daughter of the Lord Mohun, of Dunster, but no issue. Richard of Coningsborough was the younger of the two sons of Edmund of Langley, and married Anne Mortimer, the daughter of Roger earl of March, son of Edmund earl of March, and Philippa, the daugther and heir to Lionel duke of * Hunter, i. 111. CHAP. V. 112 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Clarence. This marriage brought the claim to the crown to the house of York, for her brother Edmund Mortimer, the last of the Mortimers earls of March, died without leaving issue. Richard of Coningsborough, after the death of Anne Mortimer, married a second wife, who survived him; so that there were three dowagers in this branch of the royal house of England living at the same period. This lady was Maud Clifford, a daughter of Thomas lord Clifford, the favourite of King Richard II. and sister to John Lord Clifford, slain at the siege of Meaux. This lady, in her long widowhood, for she lived till the year 1446, resided much at Coningsborough and in the neighbourhood, and had many transactions with the families around. . . Richard, duke of York, entered into possession of Coningsborough, in 1446, on the death of the countess of Cambridge. He married Cicely Nevil, a daughter of the earl of Westmorland, and she produced him offspring, one or two of which were born at Hatfield, a dependance on Coningsborough. This nobleman was slain in the battle of Wakefield, December 24, 1460. - º The ambitious spirit of the father descended to his son, the earl of March. In the year after his father's death was fought the great battle of Towton, in which the fortunes of the house of York prevailed, and the earl became seated on the throne as King Edward IV. - Coningsborough now was kept as a private fief of the crown. In this the example was followed of the house of Lancaster. When Henry IV. took possession of the crown, he did not annex Pontefract, and other members of his dukedom to the crown, knowing how much better founded was his title to the one than to the other. On the marriage of Henry VII, with Elizabeth of York, the ancient rivalry of the white and red rose became extinct, and there being no probability of the right of succession of the issue being questioned, the whole of what had been settled on Edmund of Langley was declared by parliament to be resumed, and for ever annexed to the crown. From this time we may begin to date the gradual decay of the edifice which formed the residence of the Warrens, and the early princes of the house of York. Leland says very little respecting this castle. He “ saw no notable thing at Cunesborow but the castel, stonding on a rokket of stone, and diched. The waulles it hath be strong and full of towres. Dunus flu. alluit villam.” And this is all. No garrison was placed in it during the civil wars, and it is not mentioned with Sheffield, Tickhill, and Sandal, in the order of the house of commons for dismantling the northern castles, in 1646. Evelyn notices the fine woods here. - In the third year of Queen Elizabeth, the site of the castle, the demesne lands, and the feudal rights over a portion of the ancient honour of Coningsborough, were THE county of York. 113 granted by patent to her relative, Henry Carey, then lately created baron CHAP. v. | Hunsdon. - - - This place continued in the possession of this family till the extinction of the male line, when it passed, with other great estates, to Lady Mary Carey, who married William Heveningham, of Heveningham, Esq., one of King Charles's judges. This lady died very rich, in 1696, when her property descended to her grand-daughter and heiress, Carey Newton, who married Edward Coke, Esq., of Holkham, in Norfolk. Coningsborough became the property of a younger son, Edward Coke, Esq., of Longford, who died in the prime of life, 1733. In 1737, the castle of Coningsborough, &c., was sold, pursuant to directions con- tained in the will of Edward Coke, Esq. - The purchaser was Thomas, the fourth duke of Leeds, one of whose principal seats was at Kiveton, an ancient member of the soke of Coningsborough. From him it has descended to his grandson, George William Frederick, duke of Leeds, K. G. its present noble proprietor. - . - w The site of the castle is a natural eminence, of which the upper part, a level Castle. ' surface of three roods and two perches, is completely encircled by the outer wall. It is overlooked by a still higher hill, on which is the town and church, on the west, but at too great a distance to be annoyed by such missiles as were in use at the time to which it may be referred. - - The valley between the two eminences was a deep ravine, made deeper by art. Across it a drawbridge appears to have been anciently thrown, and this led to the only entrance to the castle. The north side of the hill is very steep, and even precipitous; and the walls of the castle are placed so exactly on the very verge, that it is exceedingly difficult to walk round the walls on that side, or to find, between the castle and the river, a position from which to obtain a north view of the keep. At the base of this cliff glides the river Don. On the south and east, trenches have been cut round the base of the hill, which appear to have been originally intended to contain water. They are now nearly filled by portions of the outer wall which have fallen into them. The side of the hill, and the area within the walls, has been planted with elm and ash. The trees have attained a great size. They add to the picturesque beauty, without much injuring the original character of the scene. The following interesting account of the celebrated keep of this castle is derived Keep. from Mr. Hunter's valuable work, “The Topography of the Deanery of Doncaster:”— “The entrance to the castle area is by a winding way, about ten feet wide, .* & * or South Yorkshire. A work replete in valuable original information respecting the transition of property in this important part of the county. f - - ... - WOL. III. G. G. 114 . HISTORY OF Book VI, and carefully defended. When the area is gained, we perceive at once the whole - extent, and the keep is seen rising majestically at the further extremity. We now perceive that the wall has been broken down in several places. We also find that it was strengthened by several round towers, and that on the north side were several apartments. But with the exception of the keep, which we shall find to have been ill adapted to the purpose, there appears to have been no preparation for the residence of any considerable number of persons. “Near the keep is a sallyport of intricate construction. “When once the area was gained, there was nothing to prevent the progress of the enemy to the foot of the keep. º & .* . “The height of the keep, or rather what remains of it, for when perfect it must have risen above its present elevation, has been ascertained to be eighty-six feet. Its form is cylindrical, with six square buttresses accompanying it to its whole height. But in the lower part the walls diverge from the perpendicular, as do also the buttresses, which appear grappling the earth, like the strong fibres of the root of the oak, as if the pile was to be fixed to a spot from whence it was never to be removed. - - “The masonry of the keep differs materially from that of the other parts of the castle. Not only is the surface properly smoothed, and the stones accurately joined, but they are nicely squared, and the courses are perfectly distinct and regular. What injury it has sustained is chiefly in the basement story, and on the side which faces the west. - - - - “To the interior there is only one entrance. This is by a small door which faces the south-west, at a considerable height from the ground, being at the head of a flight of thirty-three stone steps. . - “This door opens to a passage through the cylindrical part of the wall, which is here of the extraordinary thickness of fifteen feet. Over the door of entrance there is an arch, but there is also a transom beam, as if the architect was not aware of the power of the arch. This is one of Mr. King's arguments for the high antiquity of the keep;* but it is plain that the architect might only be intent on * Mr. King, in his Munimenta Antiqua, refers the keep to the days of Cartismandua, and to artists working on Phoenician and Phrygian models. His recollections of the edifice are not always Correct, He places his heathen idols in niches which a slight inspection may show to have been intended for far other purposes. And his inferences are often very unsatisfactory. Buildings erected for defence, whether in Europe or Asia, must necessarily possess some common features. Nevertheless we owe much to Mr. King for having shown usehow to examine and describe a remarkable edifice such as this is. But, in respect of its age, it is impossible to enter the little chamber in the eastern buttress, without feeling that we are in a room which was consecrated to Christian devotion, and that therefore it a ,” could not have been erected before the light of Christianity had beamed upon our island. A. THE COUNTY OF York. 115 having a square-headed door, the usual form. The passage through the wall has a circular coved roof. On the right hand is a flight of wide steps, which conduct to the next story. We pass directly into a principal apartment of the keep, and this without the intervention of any gate or door, a very remarkable circumstance. “On being introduced to this apartment, we perceive that it is circular, contained by the circular wall of the keep, and the only apartment on this floor. We perceive also that the floors of the several apartments above it have been removed, and we see the heavens as through a circular tube. The diameter is twenty-two feet, and there are twenty courses of masonry to the lenchings of the next floor. We look for some contrivance for warming it, and find none. We look for some window or loop-hole by which light might be introduced, and find none. Not a ray could have entered, except that when the outer door was open, its darkness might be made visible by what light could make its way through a narrow passage of fifteen feet in length." And it was probably for the sake of the glimmering which might thus be obtained, that the builder dispensed with the obvious convenience of having an inner door, which would have prevented this room from being exposed to every person who might enter the keep. - . “Dismal as this apartment must have been, there was one still more dismal below. In the centre of the floor is a circular aperture, about six feet in diameter, through which we obtain a view of what we may truly call the dungeon. This room is formed in that part of the keep where the walls diverge from the perpendicular, and the only admission to it is by the circular aperture just mentioned. Such a mode of access must have been inconvenient, both as respects the mode of descending, and the state of the room from which the descent was made ; and the architect, who was far from being unskilful, and who, in whatever he did, had some design, might easily, if he had pleased, have contrived a more convenient communication. This cellar is spacious, with a vaulted stone roof. - “It has been already observed, that on the right of the passage by which we enter, there are steps which lead to the next apartment above. Of these there are twenty-five, which follow the curvature of the wall without any intermediate landing-place. The steps are of solid stone, the roof vaulted, and the passage five or six feet in width. Light is admitted by loop-holes. The door to the upper apartment is gone, as is all the wood-work in every part of the keep. But the staples for the hinges and bolts remain. The door opened outwards, and we enter the apartment down one step. - * In some of its details it bears a striking resemblance to the castle of Hedingham in Essex, particu- larly in the form of its loop-holes and windows, the position of its slender shafts, and the ornaments of their capitals. The erection of that castle has been referred to the first or second of the Veres, earls of Oxford. - CHAP. V. 116 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. “The room is circular, like the one below. The diameter is about two feet longer, the apartments widening as we ascend, by the setting in of the walls for the convenience of laying the floors. But beside the lenchings, there are stone trusses all round the walls to support the ends of the beams of timber on which the floor was laid. These trusses all point to a centre, a circumstance laid hold of by Mr. King, who draws from it a singular, and I fear, an improbable inference. He argues, that these trusses could never have been intended to receive the ends of beams laid in the usual manner across the chamber, but shorter beams, radiating to a centre, where was a circular aperture, not unlike that in the floor of the room below; and that through a series of these apertures, in the centre of the floors of each successive apartment, some additional light was obtained to the room which we have first described. But as the building was circular, the trusses would, of course, point to a centre; and small indeed must the light have been which passed down a funnel of about seven feet diameter, and from a height of fifty or sixty feet. Nor was light the only element which the heavens would pour down such an opening. And surely most incommodious, if not dangerous, must such a succession of apertures have been. On these trusses and the lenching it is evident, however, that the floor rested; and here we are obliged to Mr. King for having drawn our attention to a peculiarity in the construction of the keep, namely, that in no part of it were the timbers let into the wall; so that all the woodwork might at any time be destroyed, even by fire, and no essential injury be done to the fabric. - y . “This apartment has a noble fire-place. It is eight or nine feet wide, with a triple pillar on each side, having Norman capitals. The chimney-piece, twelve feet long, has a flat surface, and is composed of several stones fitted into each other by a kind of zigzag or dove-tail work. - : t “On the left is the path to the door of egress. The floor being entirely removed, we walk along the lenching of the wall by the assistance of large nails, which are driven into it at suitable intervals. Passing along this narrow track, we soon come to a door-way: this opens to a flight of six steps, from which a short and winding passage conducts to a retiring closet formed in one of the buttresses. There was no door except that at the foot of the stairs. Proceeding along the lenching, we next come to a little recess, or small chamber, formed in the circular part of the wall, and immediately over the door of entrance. This recess is open to the circular apartment. A stone bench runs round three of the sides. It seems that here the inhabitants of this den of greatness, as Mr. King calls the keep, might sometimes unbend in social converse, and sit to enjoy some of the common blessings of heaven; for here is the largest window in the whole structure, though small indeed, and it affords a pleasant look-out towards Crook-hill and Clifton. This V THE COUNTY OF YORK. 117 window has a contrivance for sliding a massive beam before it. It was the only entrance for light to what appears to have been the principal apartment. “The ascent to the next story is by a flight of thirty-four steps, with a loop-hole light, and another at the landing-place. The apartment at which we now arrive is like the last, but wider, for the reason before given. It has a fire-place, recess, and lavatory, differing little from those in the room below, except that the recess is much smaller. The door of egress is again placed nearly opposite to the entrance, and the access to it was by crossing the apartment; it is now by passing along the lenching. & - - - “Walking along this ledge we arrive at a doorway leading to one of the most interesting parts of this curious fabric, a chapel or oratory, formed in the thickness of the wall and one of the buttresses. _r - “This apartment is an irregular hexagon, in length twelve feet. Its breadth in the middle is eight feet, and at each end six feet. The height is fifteen or sixteen feet. In its roof are two pairs of cross arches springing from six circular columns, with Norman capitals. : “This room is evidently an integral part of the original design. The architecture differs considerably from that of other parts of the edifice; but it is only a deviation from the castellate to the ecclesiastical style. It may be referred to the feeling of any one who has been accustomed to contemplate our early edifices, whether it can have been constructed but for a religious purpose, and with a Christian pre- possession. A doorway on the left of the entrance to the chapel leads to a small room lighted by a loop-hole. It appears to have been a kind of vestry. Here is nothing to be seen but a niche with a trefoil top. , “ . . “In the passage from the circular chamber just described is a winding irregular way to a second closet. The steps are narrow and inconvenient, the walls at this elevation being much reduced in thickness, by the widening of the apartments. At the head of this flight we are introduced to what has been a circular room, like those below, but the circular parts of the wall are broken down, and all which remains are the tops of the six buttresses, rising to about the height" of nine feet above the level of the floor. In each of these buttresses is a hollow, not unlike an oven. In one of these are twelve small apertures, which may have been intended for the purpose of throwing down hot sand or water on the besiegers. Over the alcove, in one of the buttresses, has evidently been a small room, a portion of its window still remaining; and in another is a flight of steps, which may-be supposed to have led to a watchman's station in this the highest part of the castle. No trace of any roof remains. - . . - “Such is this far-famed keep, which has been perhaps more frequently the subject of the pen and of the pencil, than any other remain of its order in the WOL. III, - H H CHAP. V. 118 HISTORY OF . kingdom. Whatever may be thought of the era, there can be but little doubt respecting the purpose of its erection, which was evidently as a last retreat for the inhabitants of the castle, who here, if any where, must have found a fortress that was impregnable.” - Near the castle wall is a mound of earth, but now slightly to be discerned, called Hengist's tomb, which is maintained to be the identical tumulus which Jeffrey of Monmouth informs us was raised over the body of Hengist. This is no modern invention, for it was so denominated by Camden. The benefice of Coningsborough is a vicarage in the gift of the archbishop of York. It is valued in the Liber regis at £8. 12s. 9%d. The church is dedicated to St. Peter, and is a spacious and lofty edifice, consisting of nave, side aisles, and chancel, with a tower at the west end. On the south side is a porch having a circular doorway with chevron mouldings. The aisles are evidently of the same age with the body of the church; and are each separated from it by three circular arches springing from low cylindrical columns. The capitals of these columns are variously ornamented. In some of them the Norman volute and foliage appear. Between the chancel and the nave is another circular arch. There was once a north chancel. This has been taken down; but a small grate may still be observed, through which persons in that chancel might have obtained a view of what passed at the principal altar. • It is evident from this description, that the church of Coningsborough belongs to an early era in church architecture; and that the latest period to which it can possibly be referred is the time of Earl Hameline ; but Mr. Hunter is inclined to refer it even to a period before the conquest. “The semicircular arches, the cylin- drical pillars, and their Saxon capitals, carry us back with no uncertain indications to a period coeval if not anterior to the erection of the keep.” In this church is a large stone, probably of the Saxon period. It is in length five feet eight inches; the thickness is about eighteen inches; the width at the head twenty-two inches, at the feet seventeen inches. The upper surface is what is called the dos d’ane, and that and the sides are covered with rude carvings. The principal subject is a knight with his sword and target, encountering a huge dragon. Beside the knight stands an ecclesiastic, known by his crosier, and near the dragon is the figure of a female lying on the ground. The size and form evidently mark its original design to have been to lie upon, the grave of some person, doubtless of distinction.* - The font is an octagonal basin, raised on a pillar composed of a centre and four cylindrical columns clustered round it. On six faces of the octagon are blank Book VI. Church. Font. * Hunter, i. 120. THE county of York. & 119 shields within quatrefoils. On the seventh face, in bold relief, is the figure of an old man seated, naked to the waist, perhaps intended for the Deity. On the eighth side is represented a full-grown person stepping over a wall or bar on which a child is kneeling, The only monumental effigy is a much mutilated statue of a knight. Mr. Hunter says it may represent one of the Vescis, or some early seneschal or constable of the castle. A In the time of Dodsworth was a tomb, having at each corner a shield charged with three firebrands, as in the window, and this inscription:—“Orate pro anima Katherinae nuper uxoris Edmundi Fitzwilliam armigeri: quae obiit xI die Martii, A. D. M. cccc. Lxx. VII.” The will of this lady bears date March 6, 1476, and it was proved in May, 1477. She describes herself in it as of Coningsborough, and desires to be buried in the church there, before the image of our Lady of Pity. Her legacies are chiefly to the family of Sir Richard Fitzwilliam of Aldwark. She was the second wife of his father. A small sepulchral memorial of Fitzwilliam still remains. This is a stone in the midst of the chancel, on which is carved a cross patonce, and, round the verge, this inscription: CHAP. V. #ic jacent àicatiug, ºntoniug, et &timumbug, fiſii &ſjūmae fits ibiſliam miſt. et bºnae HLuciae uſ ej’ d’t’ animatug propſtictur Speus. These children died young, in the reign of Henry VII. Their father was the head of the Aldwark branch of the family, and their mother, the lady Lucy, was a Nevil, one of the co-heirs of John Marquess Montacute, and not distantly related to Cicely, duchess of York.” - In the north wall of the church, not far from the east end of the aisle, is a tomb within an arch, and on a brass plate within the arch this inscription: #ic jacet jºicijoſauš 250ggheſſ qui ištam cantariam instituit. Quiquitem Bicholaus in fata becºggit annu QP’ni miliegimu Guingentzgimo biteśīmū tertid: cujug animae propitietur QPeug. Within this parish are three small hamlets, Firsby, Clifton, and Crookhill. Clifton is situate about two miles south of Coningsborough. It was an ancient dependence upon it, and having been regarded as a separate manor before the conquest, it is surprising that it was not elevated to the rank of a distinct township. A theca of Roman money was found here in 1705. It consisted almost entirely of the small brass of the lower empire. The manor descended with Coningsborough * Hunter, i. 121. Clifton, 120 HISTORY OF Book vi. Cantley. Manor. Church. in the Warrens, and has accompanied it to the present time. The ground rises rapidly at this place, and overtops most of the elevated points around. Hence it became one of the principal stations in that noble and most useful work, the trigonometrical survey of England. The actual height above the level of the sea was found to be 417 feet, and the longitude of the beacon 1° 12 52}" west from the meridian of Greenwich. . l CANTLEY is a parish town, situate three miles and a half east of Doncaster. Population, five hundred and seventy-seven persons. - - Before the conquest, the principal part of this parish belonged to a Saxon, named Tochi, who had large possessions in the county of Nottingham. In Brampton and Cantley, “ Brantone and Canteleia,” he had fourteen or fifteen carucates, an unusually large number, and there was a church. In the time of the Confessor it had been valued at £8. The manor is now the property of John Walbanke Childers, Esq., who has also the impropriate rectory. The grandfather of this gentleman built a capital mansion here, called Cantley lodge, which has been the principal seat of the family since their removal from Carr house, near Doncaster. • The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £6.6s, 5%d. It is in the patronage of J. W. Childers, Esq. - - The church is dedicated to St. Nicholas, according to Torre; but he has also preserved, in his testamentary burials, evidence that St. Wilfrid was the patron: it is the will of James Grave, the vicar, dated the 2d of March, 1504, in which he desires to be buried in the choir, before the image of St. Wilfrid, patron of the church. It was ordered by the synod of Celecyth, in the time of Kenulph, king of Mercia, that in every church there should be a figure of the saint to whom it was dedicated. Browne Willis, a diligent inquirer into our ecclesiastical antiquities, supplied Ecton with the patron saints of the English churches, and Wilfrid stands as patron of the church of Cantley in his work. ^ The church consists of a nave and chancel, with a tower at the west end. A sepulchral monument, of the fourteenth or fifteenth century, is built up in the east wall; the head and shoulders only of the person commemorated is represented, while the rest is plain. In the church is a monument to Mr. Childers, who built the hall; he died June 16, 1802, aged sixty-four. -- Maltby. MALTBy is a small parish town, situate four miles and a half from Tickhill, and seven and a half from Rotherham. In 1821, the population of this town amounted to six hundred and seventy-nine persons. Maltby, in common with the great majority of our villages, first presents itself in the pages of Domesday. We there find, that in the time of the Confessor, Elsi had held four carucates in Maltebi and Helgebi; and that now Roger de Busli THE COUNTY OF YORK. 121 has five carucates in demesne, and thirteen villains, and eighteen borderers, with eighteen ploughs. - - The manor of Hooton-Levet consisted of three carucates and six bovates, before the conquest;—six quaranteens in length, and as many broad. Bugo held it. He was superseded by the Norman, who had here in demesne one carucate; and there were eight villains and three borderers, who had three carucates. There was a mill, valued at 28d. It is now the property of the earl of Scarborough. The constitution of the church of Maltby was peculiar. The patrons presented a rector; but the rector changed his office into a sinecure, being allowed to nominate a perpetual vicar for the performance of parochial duties. A vicarage was ordained under these circumstances, on 12 kal. Feb. 1240, when there was assigned for the support of the vicar, the altarage, tithe of hay and of the mills, and four marks per annum, to be paid by the rector. It is valued in the Liber regis at £4.13s. 4d. ; in the parliamentary returns, at £30; and is in the patronage of the earl of Scarborough. - The rectory was very valuable. In Pope Nicholas's Taxation, it is estimated at f26. 13s. 4d. The presentation of the vicar came, at the dissolution, to the crown. The church, which is dedicated to St. Bartholomew, comprises a nave, chancel, and south aisle, with a tower and spire at the west end. It is a small and mean building, forming a remarkable contrast to the once magnificent church of the Cistertians, who had established themselves in its vicinity. When Dodsworth visited the church, these arms were to be seen in the windows:— Clifford. Checkie, or and az, a fess gu. Az. a fess between three hares seiant ar. Or, on a chevron sa.. three crescents ar. Dodsworth also transcribed two sepulchral inscriptions, which no longer remain.” Near this village is the pleasant seat of J. Cook, Esq. A school was founded here by one of the earls of Castleton, and is repaired by his heirs. - The foundation of the abbey of Sancta Maria de Rupe, or Roch abbey, was the most splendid act of piety of the early lords of Maltby and Hooton. But, though they were accounted the founders, because they gave the site, the monks must have done much for themselves, and had other great benefactors. No branch of the great Benedictine family took such deep root in England, or flourished so luxuriantly, as the Cistertian. It is an undetermined question, which was the first monastery of this order founded in England; but it is no question whether the house of Rievaulx, founded by Walter Espec, was not among the first, * Wide South Yorkshire, vol. i. WOL. III. I I CHAP. V. Manor. Church. School. Abbey. 122 . HISTORY OF BOOK WI. . or whether it were not the earliest Cistertian foundation north of the Humber. The era of its foundation corresponds with the presidency of Harding, and the reign of Henry I. The same feeling of dissatisfaction with the laxity of the Benedictine rule manifested itself, about the same period, in the great abbey of St. Mary, without the walls of York. Some of the monks withdrew from that house for the purpose of submitting themselves to more austere severities, and lived for some time under the shade of a few yew trees which grew on the banks of the Skell. This was in 1132. These were the small beginnings of the house of St. Mary de Fontibus, or Fountains. The first settlers at Kirkstall came from Fountains. Both adopted the Cistertian habit and rule. Many other houses of this popular order were founded in the diocese of York during that century.* - The circumstances which were the immediate occasion of the early establishment of a company of Cistertian monks at this place have not been preserved, neither is it known from what house the original society were a colony. . From charters preserved by Dodsworth, it appears that in the reign of Stephen, that is, not long after the settlement of the Cistertians at Rievaulx, a few religious had seated themselves near the spot where afterwards the abbey arose, and like the original settlers at Fountains, who lived for a while under the shade of the yew trees, they appear to have assembled in this place before any buildings were erected to receive them. The expression which occurs in both foundation deeds, “ Monachi de Rupe,”—'monks of the rock, can only be interpreted on the presumption, that these sons of an austere devotion had placed themselves in this valley, where they were screened from the bleak winds of the north by a range of limestone rock, and were content to practise their devotions under the open canopy of heaven.'t A natural phenomenon, probably heightened by art, contributed to induce the monks to make choice of this spot. Among the accidental forms which portions of the fractured limestone had assumed, there was discovered something which bore the resemblance of our Saviour upon the cross. This image was held in considerable reverence during the whole period of the existence of this monastery, and devotees were accustomed to come in pilgrimage to “Our Saviour of the Roche.” I w A On the arrival of these monks, they were welcomed by the two lords of the soil * Hunter, vol. i. 266. + Hunter, vol. i. 266. - # “The name of this monastery has no connexion with Saint Roche, the Lombardy saint, who devoted himself to a pious care of the sick, as all the Cistertian houses were dedicated to the Virgin; and they were distinguished from each other by some addition, as de Fontibus, de Rupe, when they were not near any place which had previously acquired a name. The Roche, or the Rocher, still designates a place, not unlike the site of this abbey, on the banks of the Loxley.”—Hunter. - -- - - == º - - - - - - - - -- - - - - | * on Steelby Jsº IRC). CIGI & IBIBLE I, - - - Londºn. Published by JT Hintona Warwick Square. November 1829. - - - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 123 on which they settled themselves, Richard de Busli, the lord of Maltby, and Richard the son of Turgis, called also Richard de Wickersley. - To be the founders of a house of religion was a distinction of which even princes were ambitious; and the two lords of Maltby and Hooton doubtless rejoiced in the opportunity which seemed to be afforded them of connecting their names for ever with such a foundation. * . By the light which, the early charters afford, we discern that there was a friendly rivalry between the two families, who should first take the monks into their .* CHAP. V. protection, and give them for their absolute use ground necessary for their holy purposes. It was finally arranged in a manner which must have been highly satisfactory to the monks. The two lords were to convey to them a considerable portion of their territory, in which was included the rock from which they took their designation. - - The lord of Maltby's original donation is thus described:—The whole wood as the middle way goes from Eilrichethorpe to Lowthwaite, and so as far as the water which divides Maltby and Hooton; also two sarts which were Gamul's, with a great culture adjacent, and common of pasture for a hundred sheep, six score to the hundred, is sochogia de Maltby. \ The lord of Hooton gave the whole land from the borders of the Eilrichethorpe as far as the brow of the hill beyond the rivulet which runs from Fogswell, and so to a heap of stones which lies in the sart of Elsi, and so, beyond the road as far as the Wolf-pit, and so by the head of the culture of Hartshow, to the borders of Slade Hooton. All land and wood within these boundaries he gave, with common of pasture through all his lands, and fifty carectas, perhaps loads of wood, in his wood of Wickersley. - - The whole of the ground comprehended in these two donations is described in Pope Urban's confirmation, A. D 1186, as locum ipsum in quo abbatia sita est.* Neither of these deeds has a date. But the year 1147 was assigned as the date of its foundation, by the uniform tradition of the house. The architecture of the portions of the building which remain may be referred to that era. the church of Roche evidently belongs to the same age, and Mr. Hunter says it may almost be affirmed that it was built upon a design sketched by the same architect. It is evident, therefore, that the monks, as soon as they received the grant of the soil, set themselves about erecting their church, and apartments for their own residence. Their church was built upon an extensive and magnificent scale; and it cannot be supposed that the burden of its erection rested solely on • Hunter, vol. i. 267. There is such an exact conformity with the style of Kirkstall, that 124 History of BOOK WI. Abbots. the lords who gave the land, though they would, without doubt, be forward in the pious design. It is indeed one of the great difficulties attending our monastic antiquities, to account for the command of labour, which must have been vested somewhere, directed for the preparation of so many noble houses of religion as arose during the twelfth century, while England was distracted by foreign and intestine war. - } - The whole was completed; before 1186, and in that interval the monks had found many liberal benefactors. The following is a correct list of the abbots of this house:— - Durandus was the first abbot. His presidency extended from June 1147 to 1159. Dionysius, 1159 to 1171. - ,” A. Roger de Tickhill, 1171 to 1179. : Hugh de Wadworth, 1179 to 1184. He appears to have been an active superior, as in his time a confirmation from the pope was obtained. Osmund had a much longer presidency than any of his predecessors, namely, from 1184 to 1223. He had been the cellarer of Fountains abbey. In his time King Richard I. released the house from a debt of 1300 marks to the Jews, perhaps not very honestly. Reginald, 1223 to 1238. ' Richard, 1238 to 1254. Walter, 1254 to 1268. Alan. Jordan. Philip. Thomas professed canonical obedience to the archbishop, 1286. Stephen professed canonical obedience, 1287. John, 1300. - Robert, 1300. William, 1324. - Adam de Gykellswyk, 1330 to 1349. In his time the earl of Warren gave the rectory of Hatfield for the increase of the number of monks. ſ Simon de Bankewell professed canonical obedience, 1349. John de Aston, 1358. Robert, 1396. John Wakefield, 1438. In his time Maud, countess of Cambridge, made her will at the monastery, and directed that her remains should be interred there. John Gray, 1465. - - William Tikel, 1479. Thomas Thurne, 1486. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 12.5 William Burton, 1487. John Morpeth, 1491. John Heslington, 1503. - - Henry Cundel, abbot at the time of the dissolution. The date of the surrender is June 23, 1539. Of the seventeen monks who joined him in the surrender, eleven were alive in 1553. f The stock of the abbey at the period of the dissolution consisted in three-score oxen, kine and young beasts, five cart-horses, two mares, one foal, one stag, six-score sheep, and four-score quarters of wheat and malt. The plate was very moderate. - - The revenues of the house are estimated by Cromwell's visitors at £170 per annum; and the debts are said to be £20. - Of the fabric of the abbey only a gateway, placed at the entrance to the precincts on the side towards Maltby, and some beautiful fragments of the transepts of the church remain. The gateway is of later architecture than the church, indeed so late, and standing at such a distance from the monastery, that it might be taken for part of the novum hospitium mentioned in the account of the abbey property, and which was doubtless erected by the monks for the convenience of persons resorting to the abbey, and especially of the pilgrims who came in veneration of the image found in the rock. A large mass of stone-work at a distance westward from the principal portion which remains of the church, is evidently the base of one side of the great western entrance. This admitted to the nave, flanked by side aisles, the whole of which has disappeared. Advancing eastward, we arrive at the columns which supported the tower that rose at the intersection of the nave, choir, and transepts. Much of these remains. The eastern walls of the transepts still exist, and enough of the inner work to show that in each were two small chapels, to which the entrance was from the open part of the transept, and the light admitted from windows looking eastward. In this we perceive a close resemblance in design to the church at Kirkstall, as there is also the closest resemblance in some of the minuter decorations. The difference is, that at Kirkstall there are three of these chapels in each transept. We may observe at Roche a remarkable peculiarity respecting the northern transept. The north wall must have arisen almost in contact with the perpendicular rock, and indeed the whole of the northern side of the church must have been darkened by that rock, which rises as high as the walls of the abbey themselves. Between these side chapels, and extending con- siderably beyond them, was the principal choir, with lights at the east end, and on the north and south. And with this the church appears to have terminated, as there is nothing to indicate that there was here any Lady choir or other building beyond. vol. III, K K CHAP. V. 126 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Sandbeck. Sandbeck park. On the north side of the choir may be discerned some rich tabernacle work, a part of which has been painted of a red colour.” This has the appearance of having been canopies over seats, or possibly over a tomb. The ponds in which the monks were accustomed to keep their fish, and the mill at which they ground their corn, are still existing. - * Close adjoining to the demesnes of Roche abbey is Sandbeck, which was once a valuable appendage to the monastery, and where is now the seat of the noble family to whom the site of the abbey and much other property in this neighbour- hood belongs. - This place is not mentioned in Domesday. The land was then either lying waste or it is included in the survey of the manor of Maltby. It first occurs in the sixth year of the reign of Henry III. 1224, when it is mentioned as one of the places in which lay the six fees and a half which Alice, countess of Eu, released to Robert and Idonea de Vipont. Here is the beautiful seat of the earl of Scarborough. This elegant mansion, , which was built by the late earl about thirty-eight years ago, of Roche abbey stone, is both a magnificent and commodious residence. The south front is of - Grecian architecture ; and the interior corresponds with the exterior in elegance. The great room, or saloon, sixty feet in length by twenty-two feet in breadth, is ornamented with a superb chimney-piece, worked in verd antique, with basso relievos in the frieze, and the cornice supported by figures. All the ornaments of this room are executed with great lightness and elegance. The different offices, outbuildings, farm-house, and gardens, are well planned, and perfectly calculated for convenience and comfort. tº . - This superb mansion being situate in a valley, and surrounded by high grounds and plantations, cannot be seen at any great distance; nor does it command any extensive prospects. The scenery around it, however, is beautiful. It stands nearly in the middle of a noble park, adorned with lofty trees, and well stocked with deer. Vistas are cut through the park to the westward, and at the extremity of one of these the spire of Laughton church appearing in the distance forms a fine ter- minus. In the south front is an extensive lake, stretching towards the east and the west; and a number of swans and other aquatic fowl gliding along its surface, hovering over its waters, or sporting on its margin, give additional beauty to the sequestered and tranquil scene. This fine piece of water is surrounded with beautiful plantations, consisting of a great variety of trees, which are frequented by various kinds of birds; and gravel walks winding in various directions through these groves, render them more delightful. Hooton Levet hall, in this parish, is the seat of W. Hoyle, Esq. * Hunter’s South Yorkshire, vol i. . THE COUNTY OF YORK. 127 The parish town of FISHLAKE is situate two miles from Thorne. In 1821 the population was seven hundred and twenty-three persons. - - In the 10th of Edward II. the manor of Fishlake was given by John de Warren, earl of Surrey, to Henry de Walda. - The benefice is a vicarage, in the presentation of the dean and chapter of Durham. It is valued in the Liber regis at £13. 3s. 9d.; in the parliamentary CHAP. V. _º Fishlake. Church. return at £67. The church of Fishlake was given by William, earl of Warren, to the priory of Lewes, in Sussex, who had a pension of twenty shillings out of it, and were patrons of the rectory. The church is a handsome edifice, consisting of a nave, aisle and chancel, with a good tower at the west end. On the south side of the nave is a magnificent porch, undoubtedly a remnant of the original church built by the Warrens. Four circular arches spring from as many cylindrical columns with richly ornamented capitals. Each circle is finely carved, but the outer arch is the most remarkable, being divided into twelve compartments, each presenting a distinct subject. These subjects appear to have been domestic occupations, but many of the figures are decayed. It so nearly resembles the porch of St. Margaret's church, York, that it may be presumed to be of the same age, and from the hands of the same artist. The porch is all that can with certainty be said to belong to the original church. It is doubtful whether any towers are older than the reign of Henry III. ; and the statue of St. Cuthbert in the tower at Fishlake plainly points to a much later period. It can scarcely have been placed there before the time when the church was given to the monks of Durham, whose peculiar patron this saint was, and whose reliques, richly enshrined, were the glory of their church. Skyehouse is a considerable township, with a population of five hundred and fifty-one persons. There is a small chapel in this village. BARNBY UPON DON is a parish town on the banks of the river Don, distant five miles and a half from Doncaster. Population four hundred and ninety-five. The derivation of Barnby is evidently to be traced to the residence of Beorn, a Skye house. Barnby upon Don. name found in our Saxon history. The addition on the Don needs no explanation. It is plainly added to distinguish this Barnby from other places so called, of which there are several in the counties of York and Nottingham. The village of Barnby is situate close to the river; and consisting of somewhat picturesque houses, placed amongst gardens and orchards in a flat country, and on the banks of a stream on which boats are continually plying, “ it reminds us,” says Mr. Hunter, “ of one of the Dutch villages, as they appear in the works of the Flemish painters.” The rest of the township is for the most part enclosed and cultivated lands, with scarcely a house erected upon them, except that some portion of Bramwith is supposed to belong to this township. • 128 . HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Church. Monu- linentS. Thorpe in Balne. The people of Barnby have a right of common on Thorpe marsh, which is on the north side of the river. - The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £9. 12s. 6d. It is in the patronage of J. Gresham, Esq. The church, dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, consists of a nave, north aisles, and chancel, with a tower at the west end. On the latter appendage are the arms of the see of York. The oldest monument is in the north aisle; it is a stone which has had some effigies traced upon it, and an inscription round in Langobardic characters, of which are plainly to be read the words, “ Orate pro anima Johannis de . . .” Against the south wall of the chancel is an altar tomb of freestone, having on the sides the arms of Molyneux. It is to the memory of Anne, second daughter of Sir John Molyneux, of Teversall, Nottingham. She died November 3, 1633, aged twenty-seven. The chancel appears to have been erected in the reign of Henry VII. The monuments are numerous, and some curious. On the north side of the chancel is an altar tomb to R. Marshall, who died 1505. The township of Thorpe in Balne has a population of one hundred and twenty-two persons. Here are the ruins of an ancient chapel, which appears, from the archi- tecture, to belong to the age of Henry II. when the narrow loop-hole window and the circular arch prevailed. It probably owes its origin to Ote de Tilli, who has left less questionable proof of his devotional turn of mind. The endowment of the Chapel. cantarist of this chapel was an annual pension of £4, paid by the provost or master of the college of Cotheringstoke. In the reign of Henry VIII. William Carr was the cantarist. It lost its endowment at the reformation, and it does not appear that there was ever an attempt afterwards to revive religious services within it. The chapel is now used for a barn, or a place in which to deposit husbandry utensils. It might, however, at a very small expense, be restored to the purpose for which it was erected. Though belonging to the lowest class of religious edifices, great care was taken in the erection of it; and where that was the case with the buildings of our ancestors, it is not a few centuries of neglect which can reduce them to entire decay. Less ornamented than the chapel of Steetley near Worksop, it bears to it a close resemblance. Its proportions are nearly the same, and even in its desolate state it gratifies by its uniformity and completeness. It is a longitudinal building, sixteen paces in length and six wide, divided by an arch into two equal portions, which were once the nave and chancel. The principal entrance is on the north side, by a doorway beneath several semicircular arches springing from cylindrical columns. Light is admitted by two lancet-shaped windows on each side, and another at the west end; while in the east wall are three, placed around one which is wider than the rest. The openings in the wall, THE COUNTY OF YORK. 129 which is very thick, widen towards the interior. On the right side of the altar CHAP. V. is a small recess in the wall, and a very fair piscina with a trefoil top and a shelf within. - 4 The parish of EDLINGTON is very small, the population amounting only to one Edlington. hundred and forty-one persons. It is situate four miles and a half south of Doncaster. y - 's The name is evidence of some former consequence: Epeling cun, the town of the Atheling, a generic term for the younger offspring of the royal Saxon houses. It may be supposed, without venturing beyond the bounds of a reasonable probability, to have been a dependance upon its neighbour Coningsborough, when that place was the King's borough. - - Before the conquest Edlington belonged to a Saxon named Norman, who had also Thribergh and Dalton. He was displaced, and what he possessed, together with something at Barnby and Bolton, with much in other parts of the kingdom, was given to William de Perei, one of those who accompanied the Duke of Nor- mandy in his conquest of England, or followed in the train of victory. For a considerable period this manor belonged to the noble family of Scrope; Manor. Henry, the ninth lord, sold Edlington and Stainton to Thomas Jennison, Esq. who in the next year sold them, to Sir Ambrose Jermyn of Rushbrook, Suffolk; and he, in 1574, to John Cletham of Great Livermore, in the same county. But the manor and advowson were soon passed to Sir Edward Stanhope, Knt., and LL.D. in whose family they remained until the commonwealth, when it was bought by Sir Thomas Wharton, K.B. a brother of Philip Lord Wharton. It is now the property of W. Wrightson, Esq. of Cusworth. The manor house (now taken down) was built by Sir Edward Stanhope. “When Af I saw the old house in 1802,” says Mr. Hunter, “in the ceiling of one of the principal apartments were several memorials of him; the letters E. S. and S. S. (the latter for Susan his wife, a daughter of Thomas Coleshull, of Essex), the arms, crest, and quarterings of the Stanhope family, and a large shield of the arms and quarterings of Cromwell of Tattershall, from whom the Stanhopes inherited a large portion of their Nottinghamshire possessions.” --~~ This house stood on the west of the church-yard. It was the residence of the & successors of the Stanhopes at Edlington, the Bosviles, Whartons, and Molesworths. The advowson (a rectory) has remained regardant to the manor since the time of the early Vavasors. º : In Pope Nicholas's taxation it is valued at £10, and in King Henry's Valor at £5. 19s. It is at present entered in the king's books at £9; in the parliamentary returns at £130. Patron, Lord Molesworth. - The church of this parish (which is dedicated to St. Peter) originally consisted Church. WOL. III. L L 130 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Crook hall. of a small nave and chancel, to which a north aisle and western tower, in the pointed style, have since been appended. The principal entrance was on the south side, where the door-way still remains entire, with a double zig-zag moulding within a second of the bird’s head and beak so common in our earliest churches. These mouldings are continued to the ground. Over all is a circular arch decorated with ornamented roundels. There is an ancient window in the south wall, with circular top, the side pillars having ornaments of rather an unusual kind. At the springing of the roof is a series of heads carved in the rudest style. A circular arch, with the zig-zag ornament, springing from two short and massy columns, which rest, not on the ground, but on a mis-shapen block of stone, separates the nave from the chancel.” The interior is neat, and the font has the date 1590. It cannot boast of any memorials of the lords of the manor before the Stanhopes came into possession. The Scropes had their own burying-place in the abbey of St. Agatha, near their castle of Bolton in Wensley Dale. But Edlington is not destitute of monumental memorials of some curiosity and interest. - In the chancel is a stone of unusually large dimensions with this inscription on the verge, in a fine bold character:— «Prate pro aiah; 305'íg ſtarteturnggt et Élisabeth congattig gue quiqûe ſuff'e; obit prºfit bic meg &ept at QPn mo certo quiqa'egio quito. - There was another John Cartwright of Edlington, who made his will the 12th of April 1486, proved the 28th of June following, in which he desired to be buried near Richard his brother, opposite to the chancel window. Another stone has in the centre a book with four clasps, and the chalice and wafer. On the verge:– Orate pro anima ſuff'ig iſłatijetuman quantam rectatig . . . . . qui obiit. . . . menšič &eptembrig. - The hiatus must be supplied with 1505, his will bearing date the 13th of September in that year, and its probate the 27th of November. Crook hall, situate on an eminence and commanding some fine views, is the seat of J. E. Woodyear, Esq. g When Mr. Wrightson purchased the manor, the wood was bought by Earl Fitz- william. It is divided by ridings which point towards a centre, where is a house for the wood-man, and a monument erected by the first Lord Molesworth to com- memorate a favourite greyhound. Beneath a fine yew tree is an urn supported by a square pedestal,'t in the front of which is inserted a slab of white marble, on * South Yorkshire, p. 95. + Engraved by Mr. Strutt, in Hunter's Deanery of Doncaster, vol. i. THE COUNTY OF York. 131 which is carved in bas-relief a figure of the dog, and also the following inscription, composed, it is said, by Dr. Lockyer, dean of Peterborough, a friend of Dryden:- “Injurioso ne pede proruas stantem columnam. “Siste viator, nec mirare supremo efferri honore extinctum catellum : sed qualem : Quem forma insignis, niveusq. candor, morum gratia, facilesq. lusus, amor, obsequium, fides, domini delicias fecere: cujus lateri adhesit assiduus, conviva sociusq. thori illo comite, vis animi herilis delassata, ingenium mentemq. novam Sumeret. istis pro meritis, non ingratus herus marmorea hac urna mortuum deflens locavit. M. F. C. I714.” * º f In Edlington wood are two remains of very remote antiquity. One is known by the name of Blow hall. It is a conical pile of unhewn stones, evidently an artificial work, of which the number is very large, though many of them have been removed within the memory of persons still living. It is said that a species CHAP. V. of apartments or caverns were formerly to be seen. But of these there is certainly now no appearance. The other is the Double Dyke. This is a bank of earth and stone, about three feet in height and as many in breadth, which is to be traced the whole extent of the wood, running from the north-west to the south- east in a straight line. The fields on each side of the wood have been long in tillage, and all trace of the dyke has disappeared in them; neither has it been observed in any other place. Its resemblance to Wansdyke, as it appears in the grounds of Prior park, near Bath, is very exact. The people at Edlington say, that it was thrown up to mark the division of the estate between two sisters, a fact for which there is nothing in the history of Edlington to afford the smallest countenance. It is plainly to be referred to an antiquity far beyond the reach of any tradition. : The parish town of BRAITHwBLL is situate five miles east of Tickhill. In 1821 the population of this parish amounted to four hundred and thirty-eight persons. The church of Braithwell was given by the earl of Warren to the prior and convent of Lewes, with his other Yorkshire churches; and the monks nominated a clerk to the benefice till the reformation. It was appropriated; and at the time of Pope Nicholas the portion of the priory was valued at £13. 6s. 8d. while that of the vicar was only £5. It is entered in the Liber regis at £7.7s. 2d., and in the parliamentary returns at £70. The presentation was included in the lease to the Waterhouses, and the family presented till the reign of James I., when the right Braithwell. Church. fell to the crown, in whose possession it still remains. The church is dedicated to St. James. It has undergone repeated alterations, and all that can with certainty be said to belong to the original church is a circular arch over the principal entrance, and some rude carving with which the coved part of the entrance is filled. There are appearances in the church which indicate that it was originally built with transepts, with a tower at the intersection of the limbs. For no other * 132 - HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Monu- mentS. Fair. purpose but to support such a weight could the double arches in the centre of the church be constructed. The little chapel cancelled off at the east end of the south aisle seems to have been the part of the transverse beam which projected beyond the line of the nave and chancel. There is now a tower at the west end. In the interior, the most conspicuous feature of the church is a magnificent founder's tomb, of unusually large dimensions, in the north wall of the chancel, with a piscina near it. Here was doubtless once an altar for some private service, but we have no account of any chantries at Braithwell. - Within the altar rails is a sepulchral memorial of one of the Sheffields, with the arms as they were borne by the Sheffields of Braithwell, a fess between six sheafs of corn. The inscription, “Hºic jaret Thomag ärjefeſt. . . . . . . . qui obiit . . . . . . . jº totatotilºi,” is not, as usual, round the verge of the stone, but on a scroll en- circling the head of an elegant cross flory. There are also several other inscriptions to private individuals. In this village are the remains of an old cross. The shaft rises out of an octagonal base, on which is an inscription, which has been placed beyond the power of any one to decipher by the blundering attempts of some country mason to restore it. A copy of it, as it formerly was, may be seen in Gough's edition of Camden, with a bad reading. Dr. Pegge, with his usual sagacity, read it thus, as a species of verse: • - `, ** Jesu le fiz Marie Pense toy Le frere no roy Je vus prie.” “Jesus, son of Mary, think upon the brother of our king I beseech you.” Mr. Hunter entirely agrees with Dr. Pegge in this interpretation, and also in assigning it to some friend or retainer of Hameline, earl of Warren, the half brother of King Henry II. The cross is, however, now made to tell a different story of its origin. When it was committed to the unskilful hand which restored the half- perished inscription, this was added on a new base on which the cross was erected: ^. ** McxcI. “The above inscription in English—Jesus, the son of Mary, remember our king and deliver him I pray.—This cross was set up by a prince who resided here when King Richard I. was a prisoner in Germany. Towards the king’s ransom this town contributed liberally, and its loyalty was remunerated with a charter to hold a fair on the first Thursday in May annually.” - • Of this fair, which, if it ever existed at all, has been long disused, there is no other proof. The king's ransom was raised not by voluntary but compulsory contributions. And it is not probable that a cross would bear such an inscription so near to the castle of his brother John. THE COUNTY OF York. 133 A free-school was founded in this place in 1693, by J. Bosvile, Esq. In 1818, CHAP. v. the Rev. Thomas Bosvile, of Ravensfield park, gave £250 to this school. School. The township of Bramley (which has a population of 301 persons) was formerly Bramley. one of the berewicks of Coningsborough; and in the 9th of Edward II. the earl of Warren was returned lord. - . . There is a chapel here, but without parochial rights. Of its foundation nothing Chapel. is known satisfactory. In the time of the commonwealth it claimed the right of sepulture. The grange of the abbot of Roche became, after the dissolution of this house, a seat of a family of Spencer, who acquired much property that had been in the hands of the religious. They are still residing here. In the village of Bramley is a house called the Hall, where resided, for some Hall. generations, a respectable family of the name of Eyre; it is now the seat of J. Fullarton, Esq. KIRK SANDALL is situate four miles and a half from Doncaster. Population, one Kirk hundred and ninety-two. • 4 Sandall. The benefice is a rectory, in the patronage of the lord chancellor. It is valued Church. in the Liber regis at £9. 0s. 9%d. The church is a small but neat edifice. Here was anciently a seat of the family of Rokeby, of which John was rector of Seat. this parish; he afterwards became archbishop of Dublin, where dying, he ordered his bowels to be buried at Dublin, his heart at Halifax, and his body at this place, and over each of his remains, a chapel to be built, which was accordingly done. In the chancel of the church is a marble monument to the archbishop, and another to Sir Thomas Rokeby, Knight, who died November, 1689. - In 1626, the Rev. Robert Wood, rector of this parish, by his will, devised all his Grammar freehold estate, at Kirk Sandall, Fishlake, and Barnby-upon-Don, in trust for ever, school. to the use of a schoolmaster, who shall teach a Grammar school in Kirk Sandall. George Martin, Esq. has a neat mansion here, with pleasant grounds. Streetthorpe, an ancient seat, is the residence of George Parker, Esq. a younger Street- son of John Parker, Esq. of Woodthorpe, in the parish of Hansworth, who thorpe. married one of the daughters of the late Mr. Cooke Yarborough. DINNINGTON is a small parish town, eight miles from Tickhill. Population, one Dinning- hundred and eighty-nine. -- ton. At the Conquest this parish was nearly equally divided between the lords of Coningsborough and Tickhill. . t - Close to the village is the mansion and grounds of J. C. M. Athorpe, Esq. who has the manor and a good estate in this township. At the Conquest there were four carucates here of the soke of Laughton. These formed part of the honour of Tickhill; and in the surveys of that district, Dinnington is mentioned among the places which composed it. WOL. III. . M M 134 - History of BOOK WI. church. No church is mentioned in Domesday book as existing at Dinnington, but one was erected within fifty years of the date of that record, and it was founded by the Warrens, the chief lords, as appears by its being included in the great grant of their Yorkshire churches to the distant monastery of Lewes, in Sussex. The prior and convent presented the clerk, with two lapses, till the reformation. The right was included in the lease to the Waterhouses, and since the lease expired Hooton- Roberts. Church. has been in the crown. It is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £4, in the parliamentary returns at £68. 3s. 11d. ~ --- • The church, a plain and rather mean edifice, was erected about 1770. It is dedicated to St. Nicholas. The memorials of the interment of three of the rectors, Spencer, Lackland, and Radcliffe, have been preserved from the former church. HootoN-RoBERTs is a small parish town, four miles and a half from Rotherham. Population, one hundred and ninety. - - - • The benefice is a rectory, in the presentation of Earl Fitzwilliam. It is valued in the Liber regis at £7. 11s. 8d. The church is a small edifice, dedicated to St. John the Baptist. The interior is evidently of early Norman architecture, but the exterior has been much altered. Hall. Armthorpe Church. In the east window is the effigy of a bishop, in good preservation, reading atten- tively in a book bound in purple velvet. Mr. Hunter considers this to be intended for Archbishop Melton, who obtained the advowson for his family. The hall here was one of the principal seats of the great earl of Strafford, who was beheaded in the reign of Charles I. It is now the property of Earl Fitz- william, and is in the occupation of the Misses Kent. ARMTHoRPE is a small parish town, four miles from Doncaster. The population, three hundred and fifty-nine. - | - - The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £8. 18s. 9d. It is in the gift of the lord chancellor. - h l The church is dedicated to St. Mary; it is a small building, with two bells, hanging in a kind of pent-house on the roof. It is a fair specimen of what the original churches of the smaller country parishes must have been. No chantry was ever founded in it, and not even a tower has been added to the original design. “This is the only instance,” says Mr. Hunter, “ of a church without a tower in the deanery.” The only addition to the original fabric is a large pew on the north side, for the family of Cooke, of Streetthorpe.* . t The principal part of this parish is the property of George Parker, of Street- thorpe, Esq. t 4 - * A grant of £100 was received for this church from the Society for Promoting the Enlargement of Churches and Chapels. One hundred and sixteen free sittings were obtained by it. - THE COUNTY OF YORK. - 135 HARTHILL is a small parish town, eight miles from Worksop. Population, in- cluding Woodall, six hundred and fifty. - The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £18. Ils. 103d. It is in the patronage of the duke of Leeds. The church (dedicated to All Saints) consists of a nave, chancel, and aisles, and a good tower at the west end. The cylindrical columns in the nave are probably CHAP.V. Harthill. Church. * remnants of the original fabric, built soon after the conquest, but little beside of the original church remains. The greater part of the church may be referred to the reign of Edward III. The whole of the north aisle has been recently rebuilt. The western end of the church suffered much injury from lightning in July, 1807. The window at the east end of the south aisle has been composed of painted glass. The heads of two female figures still remain, and also a head of our Saviour. Against the north wall is an altar-tomb; of the inscription only the following words are to be seen: “Pray for the sowl of Hugh Serlby, esquyere.” Here are memorials for the second Hewett, and some of the families of Danser, Carter, Griffin, and Marsh. In this church are monuments to the memory of Sir Edward Osborne and his first lady, and to Thomas, the first duke of Leeds. The former are in the chancel, but the monument of the duke is in a side chapel. The window of the chapel in which this, monument stands, contains shields exhibiting the marriages of the first duke's family, executed in painted glass by W. Price, in 1705.” - - All the deceased dukes of Leeds lie in the vaults below. The oldest coffin is that of Elizabeth lady Latimer, who died in 1680. . The parish town of WICKERSLEY, in the liberty of Tickhill, is situate on the high road from Sheffield to Tickhill. It is four miles distant from Rotherham, and the population, in 1821, amounted to four hundred and thirty-two persons. - In 1810, George Rooke, Esq. of Langham, in Essex, was lord of the manor. - The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £8.0s. 23d. H. Kater, Esq. is patron. The church of Wickersley, dedicated to St. Alban, has a tower with north and south aisles, and is in substance the original church, erected about a century after the conquest. In the east window are some remains of painted glass, which appear to be of the age of Henry VII. Half a century ago enough remained to show the whole design. It was the Crucifixion, with the Virgin and St. John standing beneath the cross. Below, a lady was introduced kneeling, with a book before her. From her mouth proceeded a scroll, on which was written “ Domine miserere mei.” There are still remaining two shields of arms, neither of which are those of Wickersley, the only family from whom such an act of piety at this place is to be * An account of the quarterings is printed in Hunter's South Yorkshire, vol. i. Wickers- ley. Church. 136 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Laughton- en-le-Mor- then. Church. expected. They are, ar., a chevron sa, between three butterflies proper; and gu., a fess or, between three lions rampant ar. - - The next object of curiosity is the grave-stone of one of the family of Wickersley, the only memorial of them remaining. It is in the north chancel. In the centre is the sacred monogram, and at each corner the arms of Wickersley. The in- scription is remarkable, on account of its being in English, and the use of the old plural form of an obsolete verb. Both the verb and this form of it may still be heard in this part of England: “Here liggen Rogier Wykersley and Margaret his wife. He dyed the xxiii. day of May anno Dni ** M CCCC LXXII: and . . . . * —' The time of the wife's death is concealed by the pewing. - º This place is famous for a fine bed of stone, peculiarly adapted for the making of grindstones; some thousands of which are annually sent to Sheffield. LAUGHTON-EN-LE-MoRTHEN is a pleasant parish town in the liberty of St. Peter, six miles distant from Tickhill. The population of the town” amounts to six hundred and fifty-two persons. - The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £6. 13s. 4d. The patronage is in the chancellor of York cathedral. The present edifice is of the age of Edward III. It probably rose upon the ruins of the old church, which was almost destroyed by Mowbray and the other adherents of the earl of Lancaster, when they made their attack upon Laughton. The word used by the petitioners is dispoyled, “they dispoyled the church.” The architect was not studious of uniformity when he restored it. The new columns on the south side corresponding to those on the north are not cylindrical but octagonal. He has however produced what may be called a beautiful edifice : in plan it consists of a nave and aisles, a chancel, and a tower at the west end ornamented with a tall towering spire, the angles enriched with crockets, the point of which is one hundred and eighty-five feet from the base. The village stands on one of the highest points of ground in that vicinity; and the spire of the church rising to so great a height, is visible in all directions to a great extent of country. It is beheld by the most numerous population on the western side. The people of Sheffield and its vicinity see it often beautifully defined in the morning sky; and on that side it must have been that the misnomer arose which converts Laughton en le Morthing, into Lighten in the Morning, a corruption which has even found its way into Speed's maps of the counties of England. * - Much of the original church is incorporated with the present edifice. The three cylindrical columns with Norman capitals, between the nave and north aisle, are * The parish has a population of one thousand and fifty-five. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 137 clearly remains of some former church, as is also the north door-way. In the CHAP. v. time of Dodsworth several shields of arms were to be seen in the windows, viz.: *======= those of Archbishop Kemp, of Sandford, then of Thorpe-Salvin, with a silver lion double-queué on a sable field; the arms of Cressy; and quarterly Talbot and Furnival, for one of the earls of Shrewsbury. Much of the ancient cancellae remains; and there is, what is rarely seen in a village church, a large eagle of gilt wood for a reading-desk, the gift perhaps of some chancellor of York. On the north wall of the chancel is a monument of about the age of James I. with effigies of a man and woman kneeling, having had arms and an inscription, but neither of them can now be recovered, nor are they noticed in any collections of Yorkshire monuments. “It is probably intended,” says Mr. Hunter, “for Ralph Hatfield and Margaret his wife, the first of the family who settled themselves at Laughton.” Exclusive of the parish church, there is, at the opposite extremity of the town, a Church. chapel dedicated to St. John the Baptist. This chapel is on the side of Laughton towards Thropum, and the few inhabitants of that hamlet are supposed to be con- nected with it. And as there is no other chapel of Thropum now existing, this must be the place that is alluded to by Torre, who says that the prebendary of Laughton has a chapel here. Thropum is too near Laughton to seem to have required the erection of a second church or chapel, and if it were originally in- tended, as is supposed, for the benefit of the people of that village, and of Letwell, and Gildingwells, it is hard to say why it was placed close to the town of Laughton, and not rather on the side of Thropum towards Gildingwells. The rites of marriage, baptism, and burial are celebrated here, and have been from the time of its foundation, which must have been very early.” The interior of this chapel is neatly fitted up, and the font is ancient, but not of equal antiquity with a sculptured sepulchral stone in the chapel. It is remarkable for its size, and especially its height. When the priest immersed the infant, he must have stood upon something which raised him above the ground. The sides are decorated with crosses and quatrefoils, except one, which exhibits a shield of arms, barry of six, on a chief a lion passant. This chapel was partly rebuilt, at the beginning of the last century, by Dr. Covel, master of Christ's college, Cambridge, who was chancellor of York, as appears from the following inscription: “Hoc sacellum propriis sumptibus instauravit Johannes Covel, s. T. P. ecclesiae sti Petri Eborum cancellarius anno Dom. 1709. Quid retribuam Domino. Psal. lxvi. 12.” \ , The nave is spacious: there are two side aisles and a chancel. At Thurcroft, in this parish, was seated a William de Thurcroft in the reign Thurcroft. - • South Yorkshire, vol. i. p. 287. VOL. III. r N N 138 History of BOOK WI. of Edward I. He had a daughter who carried this estate to Hugh Mirfield, a younger son of William de Mirfield, of Mirfield, in the central parts of the riding. The hall, lately the residence of R. Butler, Esq., is a good mansion, with a fine view of open country. ! - When Gildenwells and Letwell* were elevated into the rank of distinct town- ships is not known, but it was since the twelfth year of the reign of Edward III., for no notice is taken of them among the other townships in the compotus of Sir Bryan Thornhill, who was the collector in that year of the tenths and fifteenths throughout the riding. The earliest notice of Letwell is in an account of services due by tenants of the honour of Tickhill in the reign of Henry II., when Thomas de Letwell was said to hold an acre of land there by sergeantry and the service of receiving a brachet or hound at the feast of the Nativity of the blessed Mary, September 8, and to have 33d. per day for keeping it through the winter. There is a small episcopal chapel here, in which no parochial rites are performed except the public service. It was in existence prior to 1573. Langold hall, in this township, is the seat of J. G. Knight, Esq. M. P. and author of a volume of poems entiled “Eastern Sketches;” written on his return from extensive travels in Spain, Sicily, Greece, Egypt, Syria, and Arabia. Throapham and Woodsets are two inconsiderable townships; the first has fifty and the second one hundred and thirty-five inhabitants. - . Hooton Slade hall is the seat of W. Mirfin, Esq. FIRBECK is a pleasant parish town, four miles from Tickhill. Population two hundred and twenty-six. The village is situate in a sequestered and beautiful spot, and probably derives its name from a small stream, which would be called the beck of the Frith, or the wood streamlet. - The benefice is a perpetual curacy, valued in the Liber regis at £15, 15s. ; it is in the patronage of the chancellor of York cathedral. The old chapel at this place was of considerable antiquity; it was taken down a few years ago, and a new one was built in 1820, at the expense of the late Mrs. Gally-Knight, mother of the present owner of this estate, aided by £120 from the Society for Building and Enlarging Churches and Chapels. ,” . - When for their old and inconvenient chapel the present neat and commodious edifice was substituted, care was taken to preserve the memorials which the piety of our ancestors had placed to the memory of those whose remains were there de- posited. This is often too much neglected. Of those preserved at Firbeck, two belonging to the family of West are the most remarkable. - Hall. Gilden- wells and Let well. Chapel. Hall. Throap- ham and Woodsets. Hall. Firbeck. Chapel. * The former has a population of eighty-three and the latter one hundred and thirty five persons. + South Yorkshire, vol. i. p. 295. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 139 \ Park hill is the seat of A. B. St. Ledger, Esq. , - - NoFTH and SouTH ANSTAN is a small parish town, eight miles from Rotherham, with a population of seven hundred and seventy-six persons. On opposite eminences, between which flows one of the little streams which, united, form the Royton, are two villages, both called Anstan. The rivulet, after leaving the immediate vicinity of the villages, passes into a little glen, where stands Woodmill, possessed of considerable picturesque beauty. The turnpike road from Sheffield to Worksop passes through South Anstan. - In some maps the name of these villages is changed into Anston. The name then appears reduced to one of the commonest analogies in the topographical momenclature of England. But it wants authority. From Domesday book down- wards the word is written Anstan, and the analysis of it appears to be into Ån rean,— one stone, though to what the origin is to be referred it may not now be possible to recover.” In the Saxon times cultivation had been carried here to a great extent. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, in the gift of the chancellor of York cathe- dral, valued in the Liber regis at £10. 10s. The fabric consists of nave, side aisles, chancel, and tower surmounted by a small spire. - Beside the arms of Lizours, formerly in this church, there were, in 1780, when J. C. Brooke visited this part of the county, the arms of Beauchamp and Darcy; and also a cross gu. on a field ar. He noticed also a shield with a bend on a gold field. - - - - - The east end of the south aisle has every appearance of having been a private chantry. On the right is an arch, such as is seen over what are called founders' tombs. With this chapel Mr. Hunter connects the well-executed monumental effigies of a lady with an infant in her arms, now lying exposed in the church-yard, having been disgracefully removed from the interior of the church. In the church is one grave stone of very high antiquity, and which seems to carry up the foundation of the church of Anstan far into the thirteenth or perhaps twelfth century. It is a plain stone, tapering towards the feet, with a sculpture of the Saxon wheel- cross, and a sword of the rudest form. - i. THRIBERG is a small parish town, on the high road from Rotherham to Doncaster, from the former of which places it is distant three miles. The population amounts to three hundred and fifteen persons. * - { The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £12 11s. 5%d. : patron J. Fullarton, Esq. The church is a neat edifice, consisting of a nave, chancel, and tower, finished with a good spire. Over the south door is the effigy of St. Leonard. The interior is neat, and the windows were formerly rich in stained * Hunter, CHAP. V. Anstan. Thriberg. 140 w HISTORY OF BOOK WI, Todwick. Freeton. glass, of which many specimens remain. There are several monuments to the family of Revesley in the nave and chancel. - Thriberg park is the pleasant seat of J. Fullarton, Esq. The small parish town of Todwick, seven miles from Rotherham, has a popu- lation of two hundred and ten souls. g The benefice is a rectory, in the patronage of the duke of Leeds, valued in the Liber regis at £6.14s. 7d., in the parliamentary returns at £147, 17s. 7d. The church is a small but neat edifice. x g Todwick grange is the seat of George Fox, Esq. FREEToN is a pleasant parish town, in the liberty of Hallam. It is situate four miles from Rotherham, and has a population” of three hundred and sixty-four persons. - Church. Brampton en le Mor- then. Ulley. Wales. - Soon after the conquest, the manor here was part of the fee of Robert earl of Morton; it is now the property of the duke of Norfolk. The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £12: patron, the duke of Norfolk. The church is an ancient edifice. In it are the effigies of a knight in plate armour, called by the villagers Earl Gilbert; but if it represents any member of the house of Talbot, it is probably Sir Christopher, who was slain in the battle of Northampton. But Mr. Hunter considers that it probably represents one of the Horberys or Bernaks, who held the manor here under the Furnivals. Brampton en le Morthen has a population of one hundred and thirty-six persons, and the township of Ulley has two hundred and three inhabitants. The parish town of WALEs is situate in the liberty of St. Peter. It is seven miles distant from Worksop, and has a population of two hundred and seventy-seven persons. - º r * Westward from Anstan is this village, another of the ancient townships which composed that extensive parish. At the Conquest, Wales was divided into two unequal moieties, belonging to earls Edwin and Morcar, who had much land thereabout. The manor is the property of the duke of Leeds. - The benefice is a perpetual curacy, valued in the Liber regis at £10. 5s. : patron, the chancellor of York cathedral. - The rude sculptures about the chapel or church of Wales, show that it existed before the time when the manor passed into possession of the house of Bradenstoke; and especially the principal entrance, where we have the semicircular arch deco- rated with the bird's head alternately with the human face, in the rudest style of sculpture. The interval between the arch and the square top of the door is filled . Manor. Church. * The parish has seven hundred and three inhabitants. THE COUNTY OF YORK. d 141 up with a piece of plain chequer-work. In correspondence with this style of entrance, the pillars within are cylindrical, with Saxon capitals. A font, now lying in the burial ground adjoining, is coeval with the first erection of the chapel. In one of the windows is the following inscription: “Orate pro anima Joannis Hewett et Isabella uroris ejus qui istam fenestram fieri fecerunt.” The parish town of THORPE SALVIN is situate five miles from Worksop. Popu- lation, one hundred and ninety-nine. - - - The western boundary of this parish is the ancient highway, called Packman's lane, but anciently the street, on which, at the entrance to the county, stands Street houses. Mr. Hunter considers this road of “very high, and even of Roman antiquity; and a name by which this place is sometimes called in early record, seems to favour the supposition. Our ancestors of the middle ages bestowed the name of Rykenild street upon one or more of the great highways left by the Romans. And we find the village, now known as Thorpe Salvin, called in Kirkby's Inquest, and other early authorities, by the name of Rykenild Thorpe. This is a remarkable and curious fact.” . - The benefice is a curacy, valued in the Liber regis at £10.4s. It is in the patronage of the duke of Leeds. The original church of this parish was probably built by one of the family of Salvins at a period not later than the reign of King Henry I. This may be inferred from the porch, which has one of those highly ornamented semi- circular arches which are scarcely ever, if at all, to be found in buildings of a later age, and from a similar arch within, at the point of division between the nave and the chancel. The original church, it is manifest, consisted but of a nave and chancel. At a later period a north aisle was added, and at a still later a tower. The most remarkable feature of the old church was the capacious font with its antique sculptures. This formerly stood opposite the principal entrance, but it has lately been removed into the eastern part of the church. It is circular, and round it are several compartments with various sculptures...} CHAP. V. Thorpe Salvin. * Hunter’s South Yorkshire, vol. i. 309. t “In the first compartment we have the ceremony of baptism. The priest is immersing an infant in the font. Beside it are three figures, who appear to be taking part in the ceremony. Behind them is another figure, with face averted, and holding what may be taken for a book. The disproportion between the size of the priest and of the other persons present at this solemnity, is conformable to the disregard of similar propriety in other portions of the sculpture. “In the next compartment we have a person employed in binding a sheaf of corn. His sickle is stuck in his belt. Behind him is a sheaf ready bound, and before him a piece of uncut corn. Above him is a stack of sheaves, with another, which seems to be introduced only to fill up the arch. “We have next a person on horseback passing over a bridge. A cloak is thrown over his shoulders, and he wears a cap. Something like the bough of a tree is introduced. “The next figure is a countryman sowing corn. “In the last compartment is the figure of an aged person, seated in a chair, before what appears to be intended for a fire-place. *- “We WOL. III. -- O O Church. Font. 142 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Interior. Hall. . The interior is meat; there is still remaining the large upper stone of a tomb, which was probably that of the founder, and which was once almost wholly covered with brass. - - - Another ancient memorial of an early Sandford has been more fortunate. This is a marble flag inserted in the floor of the chancel, on which is traced the figure of a female, the feet resting upon two dogs, her hands joined as in prayer, with tabernacle work over her head. On the skirts of her dress are traced eight male and seven female figures. There are two shields, one of which contained the arms of Sandford impaling those of Pickering, a lion rampant on an ermine field. The inscription which runs round the stone is as follows: Orate pro-anima #aterime &antfort nuper uroris 305's $antford armigeri filii et herebig blui 3riani šantfort militis, quantam fille D'mi jubig Piñering: que obit terrio bie menšiš Mugusti anno D'ni miliesima cºtt.ſei. The next is in the style which began to prevail in the latter end of the reign of Elizabeth, and continued to the time of Charles II. The parties commemorated were husband and wife, and they are represented kneeling opposite to each other, at a desk, on which lies a book open, and the lady is dressed in a mourning garb, to betoken that she was left a widow. Below are three, smaller figures, also kneeling, representing the children, and a fourth lying dead. The inscription is to the memory of Hersie Sandford, Esq. and Margaret his wife. He died in the twenty-fourth year of the reign of Queen Elizabeth. An ancient hall, now in ruins, is the principal ornament of this village. It was erected by Hercy Sandford, Esq. in the middle of the sixteenth century. It is now reduced to a mere shell, with the three courts, according to what was the usual plan of the houses of the superior gentry erected in the early part of the reign of Elizabeth. - - The situation is about a hundred yards north from the church. “We first enter,” says Mr. Hunter, “a very spacious rectangular court, in which are various offices of different periods. From this we pass into an inner court, also square, each side being equal to the front of the house, which forms one side of it. The entrance to this court is through a gateway, with a chamber over it for the porter; and this gateway is decorated with shields of arms, intended to announce the ancestorial pretensions of the proprietor of the mansion. - - “The house is quadrangular, with circular turrets at each corner. In two of “We have here representations of the four seasons of the year. Autumn, under the figure of a person gathering in the fruits of the earth. Summer, a gentleman taking the air on horseback, under the shade of the leafy trees. Spring, a countryman sowing corn. Winter, an aged person sitting before a fire.”—Hunter. There is a particular account of this font in the Archaeologia, xii. 207, 309. xv. 405. * or ~ ( º c . | º - º 3. º - º º THE county of York. 143 these turrets were the staircases. The others contained small circular apartments opening into the larger. The design of the interior was a passage through the centre, with two apartments at each hand. One was the dining-room, as was manifest from the marks of the daise in the wall. The second front looked into another square court, also surrounded by walls, and about the same extent with the inner court through which we approach the principal entrance.” The parish town of MEXBoRough, pleasantly situate on the north side of the Don, and five miles and a half from Rotherham, is partly in the liberties of St. Peter and Tickhill. The population of the entire parish is one thousand and six. CHAP. v. Mexbo- rough. The population of the township of Mexborough more than doubled itself between 1811 and 1821. At the former period it was four hundred and three, at the latter eight hundred and sixty-five. This great increase appears to have been owing to the introduction or extension of the manufacture of earthenware, and the greater number of persons employed in the lime-kilns. - The benefice is a curacy, in the presentation of the archdeacon of York. It is valued in the Liber regis at £20. - The church consists of a nave and chancel, with a tower and spire. The lancet- shaped windows show that part, at least, of this church is of the original fabric built by Swein. The large octagonal font is doubtless also a relic of the original church. In the windows are some remains of painted glass. * \ Among the monuments, which are not numerous, are several to members of the family of Savile of Mexborough. There are several old grave-stones in the body of the church. On one is a cross of Calvary with two-fold arms, a variety which might surprise us, did we not perceive how much the ingenuity was put to the stretch to devise varieties of this Christian symbol. On another is a rich cross flory, with a sword on the side of it. . At Dennaby (a small township, with a population of one hundred and forty-one persons,) in this parish, resided for several centuries the ancient family of Vavasor. The hall is still remaining, built partly of lath and plaster, on three sides of a square court, one of the very few remaining specimens of the houses of the gentry of the superior class in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. One part of the house is pointed out as having been a chapel. This estate now belongs to J. Fullarton, Esq. In this parish is situate Cºsworth-house, the mansion of William Wrightson, Esq. who served the office of High Sheriff for the county in the year 1821, and was for some time member of parliament for Aylesbury. This estate was purchased of the Wrays by Robert Wrightson, Esq. about 1670. The present mansion was erected by William Wrightson, Esq. grandfather of the existing proprietor, with the assistance of Payne, the architect. It is rather a heavy building with small wings. The interior is fitted up with considerable taste. Church. Cusworth house. 144 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Ravens- field. Church. Stainton. Church. Aston. Church. RAVENSFIELD is a small parish town four miles from Rotherham. The population of it, in 1821, was one hundred and eighty-seven persons. Baxter has analysed the name of this place, and he makes it to be Yr Avon field, the field of the water. A considerable portion of the land is appropriated as a park to the elegant mansion which Colonel Bosvile possesses at this place. g. a little to the south of the The situation of Ravensfield is retired and pleasing, road from Rotherham to Doncaster. Ravensfield appears in Domesday only as a member of the great Coningsborough fee. It had belonged to Earl Harold, and had passed to the earl of Warren. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, (formerly a chapel to Mexborough), valued in the Liber regis at £10. It is held with the curacy of Mexborough. Mrs. Parkin, a pious and benevolent lady, took down the old chapel of Ravens- field, of the foundation of which no account has been preserved, and erected another, from a design of Mr. Carr's, which was opened in 1756. Mrs. Parkin augmented the curate’s income by a donation of £500. Mr. Oborne and Mr. Worgan each gave £200, by which the benefit of Queen Anne's bounty has been twice obtained. Mrs. Parkin has a monument in the church; and there is another to the memory of several members of the family of Oborne. - - There is an engraved view of the hall of the Westbys at Ravensfield, a companion print to a view of the old mansion of Hooton-Roberts, belonging to the Wentworth family. The present elegant mansion has been erected since the purchase from the Westbys, by Mr. Carr, of York. It is the residence of Colonel Boswile. STAINTON is a secluded parish town, situate two miles and a half west of Tickhill. In 1821 the population of this place, with Hellaby, amounted to two hundred and eighteen persons. The church of Stainton is dedicated to St. Winifred, and is valued in the parliamentary returns at £80. It consists of a nave and chancel, with a south aisle and tower. The east end of the south aisle is called the Holme choir, and it is said to belong to a house in Stainton called Holme hall. A piscina shows that an altar once stood under the east window, but we have no account of any chantry in this church. * - ** ASTON is a neat parish town, eight miles and a half from Sheffield. The popu- lation, including Aughton, is five hundred and fifty-six persons. The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £12.15s. 23d. It is in the patronage of the duke of Leeds. t The church is an ancient structure, consisting of a nave and aisles, with chancel and tower at the west end. The interior has several good monuments, particularly the effigies of John Lord D'Arcy and Mennil, and his three wives. He died in 1624. - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 145 Here died, in 1797, the Rev. W. Mason, the poet, who had been presented to this living by his patron, the earl of Holderness, soon after he came into holy orders. In the church is a marble tablet (with a profile bust) erected to his memory by the Rev. C. Alderson, his successor; and in a summer house in the rectory garden, on the ceiling, is an embossed medallion, containing the profiles of himself and his friend Gray, and on the floor stood two urns and pedestals, inscribed to Gray and Mason. This garden, and grounds contiguous to the Rectory, Mason employed himself, during his residence here, in laying out and improving. Within a few hundred yards of the church, and once surrounded by a park, stood Aston hall, the ancient residence of the D’Arcys, afterwards earls of Holderness, which was pulled down upwards of fifty years ago, and the present mansion erected on the ancient site, under the direction of Mr. Carr, of York. The late Sir Harry Verelst purchased the estate of the late Duke of Leeds.” WHISTON is a small parish town, in the liberty of Hallamshire, two miles from Rotherham, with a population of eight hundred and fifty-nine persons. The present lord of the manor is Sir George Sitwell. The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £10. It is in the presentation of Lord Howard of Effingham. The church is a small and low building, possessing no monuments deserving notice. \ There is a small school here, endowed by Frances Mansell, in 1728. The present value is about £30 per annum. & A chapel for the Wesleyan Methodists was erected here in 1822. Morthen hall is the seat of N. Timm, Esq. HANDsworth is a considerable parish town, situate upon an eminence, on the turnpike-road from Sheffield to Worksop, from which are commanded extensive and beautiful views of the surrounding country. The population of this parish amounts to two thousand one hundred and seventy-three persons. - At a place called Intake are extensive collieries, which furnish employment to many of the inhabitants; others are engaged in Sheffield manufactures, but a con- siderable number in agriculture. The duke of Norfolk is lord of the manor. The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £12.4s. 7d. patron, the duke of Norfolk. The church, situate on the summit of the hill, consists of a nave and aisles, chancel, and tower at the west end, with a dwarf spire. The chancel has lancet windows, apparently of the reign of Henry I. * Langdale's Topog. Dict. VOL. III. - P P CHAP. V. Whiston. Church. School. Wesleyan chapel. Morthen hall. Hands- worth Collieries. Church. 146 ! - HISTORY OF BOOK WI. School, Ballifeld hall. Bramley hall. Wadworth. A school-room was erected in 1800, for the poor children of this parish, for whom Dr. Lockyer (rector of this church, and dean of Peterborough,) made some provision. Ballifeld hall, the seat of J. Jubb, Esq.; and Bramley hall, the seat of T. Weldon, Esq., are situate in this parish. g g WADworTH is a parish town, in the liberty of Tickhill, four miles from Don- caster. The population, in 1821, amounted to six hundred and fourteen persons. Manor. Church. Warms- worth. Church. It is situate on the brow of a hill, and has a pleasing view of the country towards Doncaster. Wada is a Saxon patronymic, and it is probably the name of some person who established his worth or residence here. The manor is the property of George Savile Foljambe, Esq. -- The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £4.2s. 6d. It is in the patronage of the impropriator of Wadworth. - The church is a plain massy edifice, comprising a nave and aisles, chancel, and tower at the west end. The nave is divided from the aisles by several pointed arches resting on circular columns. , In this church are two altar-tombs of the Fitzwilliam family. The oldest has the effigies of a knight and his lady in alabaster; the dado of the monument being adorned with angels, holding shields of arms. This is to Edmund Fitzwilliam, who died February 5, 1430, and Maud, his wife, daughter of Sir John Hotham, of Holderness, who died May 18, 1433. The second is similar, to the memory of Edmund Fitzwilliam, who died December 24, 1465. The font is hexagonal, with foliage and quatrefoils.” Sir George Scovell, Bart. has a neat seat here; and B. W. D. Cooke, Esq. a small mansion, called Alverley grange. WARMsworth is a pleasant parish town, three miles from Doncaster. The population, in 1821, amounted to three hundred and thirty-five persons. The high road from the latter town to Rotherham and Sheffield passes through the village. The manor of Warmsworth is now the property of W. Wrightson, of Cusworth, Esq. ' - - - The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £6. 10s. : patron, W. Wrightson, Esq. The church is dedicated to St. Peter, and possesses no object worthy attention. It is at the distance of a mile from the principal seat of the population, and stands alone in a pleasant retirement near the banks of the Don, which here flows gently and silently along. Of the original church of Warmsworth we have * A grant of £70 was obtained from the Society for Enlarging Churches and Chapels, and eighty- four free sittings procured thereby. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 147 no account; it has given place to one of recent erection, presenting nothing to excite or to gratify antiquarian curiosity; but, standing in the midst of a cemetery surrounded with trees, remote from every human habitation, all kept in the neatest order, and being in the midst of beautiful scenery, it makes a powerful appeal to feelings of a more sacred nature. Warmsworth hall is the seat of F. O. Edmunds, Esq. The extensive level of Hatfield chase” is said to contain within its limits a hundred and eighty thousand acres, of which nearly one half was formerly a great part of the year under water. - . “There is an obscure notice in De la Pryme's manuscript,” says Mr. Hunter, “of a proposal being made to Queen Elizabeth, by a person named Laverock, to drain this level, but it does not appear that any steps were taken. The success which had attended the labours of the inhabitants of the Low Countries, kept the public attention alive to the possibility of converting, as the Hollanders had done, our own fenny and watery country into solid and available ground. King James took a particular interest in the subject, and speaking of the great fen of Cambridge- shire, he is reported to have said, that “he would not suffer any longer the land to be abandoned to the will of the waters.’ And in respect of the ſens of Hatfield, in which he had a great interest, he began to take measures for their recovery. A commission was issued to Sir Robert Swyft, Knight; Godfrey Copley, and Robert Lee, Esquires; Richard Washington, Philip Adams, and Thomas Jenkins, all, except perhaps the last, gentlemen residing in the vicinity, to inquire by a jury into the CHAP. V. * “The intervention of so many meers and shallow waters contributed greatly to the pleasures of hunting, and gave a peculiar and interesting character to the sport. De la Pryme has left us a picturesque description of a day's hunting on these levels, when Henry, prince of Wales, visited Yorkshire in 1609. He was entertained at Streetthorpe, on the side of the chase toward Doncaster, the residence of Sir Robert Swyft. After one day spent in a plain stag-hunt, the chief regarder of Thorne and — Portington, Esq. having promised to let the prince see such sport as he never saw in his life, the prince and his retinue went with them ; and being come to Tudworth, where Mr. Portington lived, they all embarked themselves in almost one hundred boats that were provided there ready, and having frighted some five hundred deer out of the woods, grounds, and closes adjoining (which had been driven there in the night before), they all, as they were commonly wont, took to the water, and this little royal navy pursuing them, they soon drove them into that lower part of the levels called Thorne meer, and there being up to their very necks in water, their horned heads raised seemed to represent a little wood, and here being encompassed about with the little fleet, some ventured amongst them, and feeling such and such that were fattest, they either immediately cut their throats and threw them up into the boats, or else, tying a strong long rope to their heads drew them to land and killed them. Having thus taken several, they returned in triumph with their booty to land, and the prince that day dined with Portington, Esq., and was very merry and well pleased at his day’s work. But longing to be at York, he came that night unto Hatfield, and lodged there; and there being attended with all the gentlemen that the country could of a sudden afford, they waited on him at Doncaster, and there taking their leaves' returned home.”—Hunter. Hall. Level. I48 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. state of the chase, the possibility of draining it, and whether the tenants had not forfeited their favour of common by building new houses on the wastes, jointing beasts, cutting down trees, destroying game, &c. To this the jury made a return unfavourable to the tenants, but expressing their conviction of the impracticability of any scheme for withdrawing the waters. - “Nothing more was done in that reign; but at the very beginning of the reign of King Charles I. what a jury of the vicinage had declared to be impracticable, a single foreigner took upon himself to accomplish.” - This was Cornelius Vermuyden, a Zealander, whose family lived at Saint Martin’s dyke, in the isle of Tholen, near the mouth of the Scheldt. He was therefore born and brought up in a fenny country, where the triumph of the art of embanking and draining had been most complete, and the practice of it constituted half the husbandry of the natives. What first brought him to England has never been ascertained, and the first notice which we have of him is when we find him in treaty with King James I. respecting the Cambridgeshire drainage. Difficulties. presented themselves which were not to be overcome; but in the level of Hatfield, where the king had a feudal as well as royal superiority, there was less division and opposition of interests, and fewer persons whose consent it was necessary, in the first instance, to obtain. The verdict on the inquest had placed the tenants at the mercy of the crown, and it was presumed, if the crown took no advantage of their forfeitures, that it might be easy to satisfy them.* g On the 24th of May, 1626, articles were signed between the crown and Vermuyden, by which the latter was to be rewarded with one entire third of the recovered lands. Of the remaining two-thirds, one half was to be given to the tenants of the manors, and the further boon was offered to them of being for ever freed from the forest laws, which were always felt to be oppressive, and from the depredations of the king's deer. - Vermuyden entered immediately on the prosecution of his great undertaking, with all the confidence which the sense of what had been done at home, and a natural genius for great undertakings, could inspire. His own command of capital was perhaps not equal to the design; but he was supported by many of his country- men, who were sharers with him, and some of them came to assist in superintending the works, and with the intention of settling on the levels. * Great numbers of Flemish workmen were brought over, and so rapidly did the work proceed in the years 1626 and 1627, that before the close of the last- f * “The feudal superiority of the crown was not confined to the limits of the Hatfield chase. It extended over the neighbouring manors of Wroot and Finningley, and over the whole isle of Axholme, Lincolnshire, where, as well as in the chase, there were large tracts of fenny ground, which it was pro- posed at the same time to lay dry.”—South Yorkshire, vol. i. 160. - - & THE COUNTY OF yoRK. - - 149 mentioned year it was supposed to be so far completed, that a commission of survey and division was issued. This was directed to the Viscount Aire, who had married one of the daughters of Sir Robert Swyft, Sir John Savile, Sir Ralph Hansby, and Sir Thomas Fanshaw. In 1628 they were employed in the difficult task assigned to them. They pro- ceeded, in the midst of the loud complaints of the people who dwelt along the north branch of the Don, who alleged that the work could not be said to be com- pleted, for that, instead of the water having been conveyed away, it was, in fact, only removed from the new lands to be spread over the old; and when they had assigned the thirds to the respective parties, and partitioned the tenants' third amongst them, they were charged with having sacrificed the tenants' interests, by assigning to them only the lowest and worst of the lands. - The dissatisfaction of the commoners in this neighbourhood now began to manifest itself in many tumults. The embankments were broken down, the working implements burnt, the Flemish workmen were assaulted, beat, and wounded, and some of them were killed. These riotous proceedings were not confined to the lower orders. The better sort of the ancient freeholders were implicated in them; one in particular, Robert Portington, a justice of the peace, of the ancient family of that name at Barnby- upon-Don, which appears in all its generations to have consisted of sons of violence and misrule, so far forgot what was due to his character and office, that he openly countenanced these lawless proceedings, and is supposed to have been personally engaged in them. - * , Cornelius Vermuyden did what could be done to satisfy the country. He took many workmen into his employ at higher wages than had been known before. He exerted himself to relieve the people who suffered from the change he had effected, as far as could be done without incurring a ruinous expense, and in return was supported by the court. On the 6th of January, 1629, he received the honour of knighthood; and on the 5th of February, in the same year, he took a grant from the crown of Hatfield chase, and all the interest which the king pos- sessed there in the recovered lands, as well as in the ancient demesne. - The great points in this agreement were, that for the sum of £16,080, and an annual rent of £195. 3s. 5}d, and one red rose, ancient rent, and £425 new rent, the king grants to Sir Cornelius Vermuyden all the demesne or manor of Hatfield, with rents of assizes, &c.; the grange near the church-yard; the liberty of taking partridges throughout the demesne ; the ferry at Stainford; the farm at Thorne Banks; the tenement called Horne house; customary payments from bondage tenants and natives in respect of hogs, liberty to bake bread where they please, and the expenses of the court leet ; the fishery in the marsh and new ditch; agistment WOL. III. Q Q 150 HISTORY OF Book vi. Hatfi eld. and pannage on the moors of Hatfield and Stainford; the third part of the manor of Brampton, called Gates; the park of Hatfield, with the conies there; a messuage at Hatfield, in the tenure of John West, which appears to be the old manor-house or palace; goods and chattels of felons and fugitives there, and profits of court; the manor of Fishlake, with rents of assize, &c.. the Earl's Ing, and the grange called Earl's Ing-lee; the Martin Ing, with profits of court, &c.; the manor of Thorne, with rents of assize, &c.; profits of court and bakehouse ; customary payments for liberty to grind corn; the messuage there called the king's chamber; and the chamber over the outward gate; the fishery of Sandraught in the Idle ; also the fisheries of Brath mere, Thorne mere, and Count's mere within the demesne of Hatfield and Thorne, together with the old and young swans there; the manor of Stainford, with rents of assize, &c. with ferry, fisheries, and certain lands there, and profits of court; the manor of Dowsthorpe, with rents of assize, money paid for liberty to grind corn where the tenants pleased, &c. fishery and perquisites of court; also all those parcels of lands, waters, marshes, moors, &c. now or before this time overflowed or covered with water, in the demesne or manor of Hatfield, known by the names following:—Ditchmarsh, Haines, Totlets, Nunmore, North Tofts, Middle Ing, Smithy Green, Bramwith Marsh, Broadhill, Stawkers, Rushill, Durtness, Moorside, Rainbuts, Uygin Car, Uygin Lings, Rough Car, Alders Car, Thorne Car, which were the whole of the drained lands: all which premises were lately parcel of the duchy of York; together with rents, &c. at Wroot and elsewhere, in the county of Lincoln. ' ' - tº : All the above he was to hold in as full and ample a manner as any duke of York had ever held them, with all courts, free warren, &c. (except the four mills, which are here stated to be situate at Hatfield, Fishlake, Thorne, and Stainford; the advowsons of the churches and chapels, mines royal, and lead and tin mines,) in free and common soccage, as of the manor of East Greenwich. Sir Cornelius Vermuyden now acted with considerable authority, if not violence, and a new commission was sent into this part of the county, which made liberal awards to the commoners. Vermuyden tried by every means to evade the decreeing of it, refusing to put in his answer to a bill of the commoners in the exchequer leading to the decree; and withdrawing himself from Yorkshire, conveying, as the author of the State of the Level informs us, his lands there to trustees; but he at length submitted; and on the 28th of November, 1631, the award was decreed in the exchequer. * - . : In 1811 an act of parliament was obtained for enclosing between eight and nine thousand acres of rich common, in this neighbourhood, which must be ultimately productive of great public and private advantage. . . . . . The extensive and populous parish of HATFIELD is situate in the northern part THE county of York. 151 of the wapentake. The town is situate four miles from Thorne, and the population, in 1821, amounted to one thousand nine hundred and forty-eight persons. This place is celebrated as the site of the battle fought between Edwin, the first Christian king of Northumbria, and Cadwallo, king of Wales, in 633.” This village was also the birth-place of William, the second son of Edward III., from which circumstance he took the surname of De Hatfield. The queen Philippa, his mother, on this occasion, gave five marks per annum to the neighbouring, abbey of Roche, and five nobles to the monks there, which sums, when he died, were trans- ferred to the church of York, where the prince was buried, to pray for his soul. CHAP. V. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £15. 5s., in the parlia- mentary returns at £80. It is in the patronage of Lord and Lady Deerhurst. The church of Hatfield, dedicated to St. Laurence, is a spacious and handsome edifice, being one of the few in this deanery which are built in the form of the cross. The tower rises at the intersection of the limbs, and is visible from almost every part of this spacious parish. . . . . . . . There is no part of the present fabric which can be supposed to have belonged to the original church, except the circular arch at the west end, with the cylindrical columns from which it springs. These are evidently parts of an older church, and there is nothing in their form to forbid us supposing that they might make part of the church which stood here in the time of Domesday. The present edifice is, however, as to all the rest, of a much later erection, and the style of its architecture points to the end of the fifteenth or beginning of the sixteenth century. The church of Hatfield is not rich in monuments. There is one ancient altar tomb, one of the latest of that form in the Yorkshire churches, without any in- scription, but exhibiting the arms of the ancient family of Wormley, three lions rampant on a chief indented. In another part of the church is the following inscription:— . . . . . . _* - “Here lies all that WaS mortal of Abraham. De la Pryme, F.R.S. Minister of Thorne, in the county of York; son of Matthew De la Pryme and Sarah his mournful relict. He died June 18th, 1704, aged 34. - - * “Though snatch'd away in youth's fresh bloom, Say not that he untimely fell : . He nothing owed, to years to come: And all the past was fair and well. “A painful priest, a faithful friend, A virtuous soul, a candid breast; : Useful his life and calm his end, He now enjoys eternal rest.” * Wide Vol. i. p. 19, Church. Momu- In entS. T52 - - HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Hall. Lindholm. Hatfield hall is the seat of W. Gossip, Esq. and Park lodge, that of W. Pilking- ton, Esq. - - - - * At Dunscroft, in this parish, was a cell* to Roche abbey; which now consists of farm houses. - • About three miles south-east from Hatfield is Lindholm, a small farm-house, in a very remarkable situation. It stands in the centre of about sixty acres of firm sandy ground, full of pebbles, surrounded by a deep and extensive morass, which can never be passed on horseback, and, except in very dry seasons, not without difficulty on foot. - Tradition relates, that in this place, formerly lived a hermit, called William of Lindholm, but preserves no account of the age in which he existed. It seems that his mode of life, and the situation which he had chosen, had rendered him famous; and the most romantic and incredible tales concerning him are yet current in the neighbourhood, where he is described as a conjuror, and a giant. In the year 1747, his stud-built cell was still standing, and was visited by George Stovin, Esq. of Crowle, in the Isle of Axholme, accompanied by the Rev. Samuel Wesley, father of the celebrated John Wesley. . p At the east end of the house stood an altar of hewn stone, and at the west end was the hermit’s grave, covered with a freestone, eight feet and a half in length, three feet in breadth, and eight feet in thickness. By the help of levers the stone was raised, and underneath it they found a tooth, a scull, and the thigh and shin bones of a human body, all of a very large size: they also found in the grave a peck of hemp-seed, and a piece of beaten copper. “It is difficult,” says Mr. Stovin, “to imagine how such vast stones should be brought, when it is even difficult for man or horse to travel over the morass, which is in some places four miles across, and on which grows an odoriferous herb, called gale, and a plant named silk or cotton grass, from its white tuft on the top resembling the finest cotton-wool. It is supposed, that before the draining of the levels of Hatfield chase, there was great plenty of water, by which the huge stones must have been conveyed: this I think the most probable conjecture.”f - Since the time of these gentlemen's visit to Lindholm a brick house has been built on the site of the ancient cell; but the place where the hermit was buried is still shown under a long table at the side of one of the rooms. In almost every part of the extensive levels of Hatfield chase great numbers of trees are dug out of the boggy earth. These have undoubtedly grown on the **. * A seal belonging to this cell, in the hands of Mr. Warburton, was engraved at the expense of the late E. R. Mores, Esq. F. S. A. + Gent. Mag. Jan. 1747. THE COUNTY OF YORK. r 153 spot; and the most probable opinion is, that they were cut or burned down by the Romans. The conquered Britons retired to their forests as their last retreat, and from thence sallied out at every opportunity to attack the settlements of the conquerors. The Romans, therefore, destroyed the woods, which was partly per- formed by the axe, and partly by fire. Some of the trees bear evident marks of fire, and others of the tools by which they were cut down. But there are many that have never been separated from the roots, from which it appears, that the Romans, who would undoubtedly despatch their work as expeditiously as possible, only made breaks by destroying part of the wood, and that the waters being prevented from running off by the trees thus cut down, stagnated on the ground, and formed morasses; the trees that were left standing fell by the humidity of the soil, and the want of shelter and support. The township of Stainforth has a population of six hundred and ninety-four persons. An episcopal chapel was erected here by the inhabitants in the middle of the fourteenth century; it was taken down and rebuilt in 1819. vol. III. - R. R. CHAP. V. Stainforth, 154 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Ecclesfield Church. CHAPTER VI. SURVEY OF THE PARISHES FORMING THE NORTH Division of STRAFFORTH AND TICKELL wAPENTAKE. The north division of the wapentake of Strafforth and Tickhill contains the following parishes:– . º ADWICK-LE-STREET, * * * CLAYTON, MELTON-ON-THE-HILL, Adwick-upon-dearne, DARFIELD, RAWMARSH, BARNBR00 GH, ECCLESFIELD, S PROTBROUGH, BENTLEY-WITH-ARKSEY, HICRLETON, THURNscoe, BOLTON-UPON-DEARNE, HOOTON-PAGNELL, r WATH"UPON-DEARNE. B RODSWORTH, MAR, The populous parish of EccLESFIELD, with twelve thousand four hundred and ninety-six inhabitants, is situated north of Sheffield. The village is distant from the latter town four miles and a half, and has a population of seven thousand one hundred and sixty-three persons. The duke of Norfolk is lord of the manor, owner of the rectory, and patron of the church. Some portion of the manu- factures peculiar to Sheffield is found here. All the nails manufactured in Hallamshire are made in this parish, which produces coal and iron-stone. At the village is a cotton factory; but still the general character of Ecclesfield is rather that of an agricultural than a manufacturing district. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £19. 3s. 4d. ; in the parliamentary returns, at £130. It is in the patronage of Earl Fitzwilliam. “The church of Ecclesfield is called by the vulgar, and that deservedly, the Minster of the Moors, being the fairest church for stone, wood, glass, and neat keeping, that ever I came in of a country church.” So, two centuries ago, said Dodsworth; and though, since his time, it has suffered much, especially in its windows, it is still a remarkably fine village church, and contains much that may recommend it to the attention of the antiquary. It consists of a nave and aisles, chancel, and good tower at the west end. The interior is fitted up with con- siderable taste, and abounds in monumental memorials of the principal families who THE COUNTY OF York. 155 have had their residence within the parish. Of these a short notice must suffice. In the north aisle of the chancel are many memorials of the Greens, of Thunder- cliffe; in the opposite aisle are several tablets, belonging to the Shiercliffes, of Whitley hall, and the Foljambes, of Aldwork. , * The Incorporated Society for Promoting the Enlargement, Building, and Re- pairing of Churches and Chapels, granted £200 towards enlarging this church a few years ago; two hundred and thirty-three sittings were obtained by it. Shiercliffe hall is the seat of W. Bingley, Esq. Very soon after the conquest, a religious house was erected at the village of Ecclesfield, which was made dependent on the foreign monastery of St. Wandrille. CHAP. VI. Shiercliffe hall. Priory. Of its founder we are ignorant; but most probably it was either Roger de Busli or the Countess Judith. Richard II. gave the priory and its appurtenances (in the ninth year of his reign, 1386,) to the newly-founded Carthusian monastery of St. Anne, near Coventry. - : We will now notice some of the old mansions in this parish. Barnes hall belonged to the descendants of Archbishop Scott, who was born at Rotherham. Howsley hall is of considerable antiquity; it is now the property of John Mackneth Freeman, Esq. Thundercliffe grange formerly belonged to the Cistercian abbey of Kirkstead, in Lincolnshire, which had forges, and other con- siderable property in this part of the parish, of the gift of De Busli and De Lovetot.* It is now the property of the earl of Effingham. The old mansion was within the parish of Ecclesfield; the present is in the parish of Rotherham. Aldwarke is a small township, containing thirty-five persons. Here is the ancient hall of the Foljambes, Clorells, and Fitzwilliams, at present the residence of S. Walker, Esq. - - * The chapelry of Bradfield comprises a bleak, high, and mountainous tract of country, lying between the Riveling and the Don. Mr. Hunter says, its area can scarcely be less than fifty thousand acres; and according to the parliamentary report of 1821, there appears to be five thousand two hundred and ninety-eight inhabitants. This district is now rapidly passing into that state of general culti- Mansions. Ald warke. Bradfield. vation consequent on the passing of enclosure bills, which commenced about forty , years ago. Several excellent roads have been made within the last few years, and that from Sheffield to Manchester, which follows the course of the Don for many miles, is singularly picturesque and romantic. In the northern parts of this extensive chapelry, are many remains of very high antiquity. Near the chapel of Bradfield, is Bailey hill, a Saxon camp, as perfect as when first constructed, save that the keep is overgrown with bushes. At the distance of about a quarter of a mile, and on the other side of the village, is another * Hunter's Hallamshire, p. 265. 156 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. earth work, called the Castle hill. This is less perfect than the last-mentioned fortification, but the remains of the keep are visible, surrounded with a ditch, except on the steep side of the hill, where it was not necessary. Bar Dike, which is now the boundary between Broomhead moor and Smallfield common, Mr. Watson conceived to be a British work. It is an immense trench, and on the adjacent Chapel. School. Manor. moor is a vast carnedde, which, by the common people, is called, “The apron-full of stones.” - Near to Handsome cross is an ellipse, eight yards by seven, of twelve stones, which Mr. Watson conceived to be druidical. The benefice is a chapelry, valued in the Liber regis at £24. It is in the patronage of the vicar of Ecclesfield. , The chapel is a small but neat edifice, comprising a nave, chancel, and tower at the west end. The interior is neat, and was pewed about twenty-eight years ago. At Nether Bradfield is a school, founded by Mr. Thomas Marriot, of Ughill, about the year 1712. It is endowed with £10 per annum. \ - The manor of Wadsley, in this chapelry, is divided between Lady Burgoyne, and G. B. Greaves, of Page hall, Esq. Stanning- ton. Balter- Stone. More hall. Midhope. Broom- head hall. At Stannington a new church has been erected by the commissioners. It is a neat edifice, of the pointed style of architecture. The first stone was laid Oct. 21, 1828, and it was finished in 1830. The amount of the contract was £2607. 19s. 3d. It will accommodate seven hundred and twenty-two persons, viz. three hundred and fifty-six in pews, and three hundred and sixty-six in free seats. A chapel was erected and endowed here, by one Richard Spoone, in 1652. It was taken down in 1742, and a larger edifice erected. A school was endowed in this hamlet, by William Rouksley, in 1733. Another dissenting chapel was erected at Loxley, in 1789. - At Balterstone, in this chapelry, Sir Robert Rockley founded and endowed a chapel in 1412. It is a small but neat, edifice, and the benefice is in the gift of the lords of the manor. In 1688, a school was erected on the green here, for the use of the poor. More hall, a farm house, is celebrated on account of its connexion with the fabulous hero of the ballad, called “The Dragon of Wantley.” At Midhope is an ancient chapel, probably founded by the De Midhopes or the Barnbys, lords of this manor. Its certified value is £7. 13s. It is dedicated to St. James, and the lord of the manor is patron. There is a good school here. - Broomhead hall, an ancient mansion erected by Christopher Wilson, in the reign of Charles I. is situate in the northern part of this chapelry, at the head of a valley, along which flows the Ewden, one of the tributary streams of the Don; THE COUNTY OF YORK. 157 and its front windows command a fine view down the valley of the woody steep of Wharncliffe. Here resided an antiquary, who has illustrated much of the ancient history of Hallamshire. John Wilson, Esq. was the great grandson of the builder of this house, and was born in it, April 28, 1719. He was educated at the Grammar school at Sheffield, where he made considerable progress in classical studies. His attention was very early directed to topographical and antiquarian pursuits, for when he was only twenty-two years of age, he had completed a survey of Hallamshire. He continued collecting much that was valuable towards a history of his native CHAP. VI. county, and died March 3, 1783. His MSS. are preserved in the hall at Broomhead. HICKLETON is a small parish town, six miles from Doncaster, with a population of one hundred and fifty-three persons. The benefice is a chapelry, valued in the Liber regis at £4; in the parliamentary returns at £100. Patron, G. W. Wentworth, Esq. The church is a small edifice, containing no monuments-deserving notice. Here is a neat mansion, the residences of F. Hawksworth, Esq. CLAYTON is a parish town, eight miles from Barnsley, with a population (including Frickley) of three hundred and sixty persons. - g The benefice is a perpetual curacy, valued in the Liber regis at £17. 3s. 10d. Patron, St. A. Ward, Esq. The church is a small but neat edifice. Frickley hall, in this parish, is the seat of R. K. Dawson, Esq. DARFIELD is a considerable parish.* The village is situate five miles from Barnsley, and contains a population of five hundred and twelve persons. The benefice is a rectory and vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £14. 11s. 7d. ; in the parliamentary returns, at £90. It is in the patronage of Trinity College, Cambridge. The church is neat, but the interior possesses few objects deserving notice. - - Billingley is an inconsiderable township, containing two hundred and fourteen persons. * * Great Houghton has one hundred and twelve inhabitants. The township of Little Houghton has also one hundred and twelve inhabitants. Houghton hall is the seat of R. Milnes, Esq.; and Middlewood hall belongs to the Hon. H. Saville, Wombwell is a considerable township, having eight hundred and eleven inha- bitants. - .. s 2’ The township of Ardsley is in Staincross wapentake; it contains nine hundred and ninety-two persons. Here are two considerable seats, Park house, the residence of B. Taylor, Esq.; and Ardsley hall, the seat of J. Micklethwaite, Esq. * Population amounts to three thousand eight hundred and twenty persons. WOL. III. S S Hickleton. Church. Mansion. Clayton. Church. Frickley hall. Darfield. Church, Billingley. Great and Little Houghton. Womb- well. Ardsley. 158 HISTORY OF HOOK WI. Wors- brough, Church. Hall. Rockley Abbey. Brods- worth. Thellus- son's will. Worsbrough is a considerable township, also in Staincross wapentake. Popu- lation, one thousand three hundred and ninety-two. This village was anciently styled Washingburgh; which, in the reign of Edward IV., was the estate of George duke of Clarence, who was attainted, condemned, and suffocated in a butt of Malmsey wine. - There is an ancient church here, the benefice of which is valued in the parlia- mentary returns at £63. 0s. 6d. It is in the patronage of the rector of Darfield. The church, situate on a hill, consists of a nave and chancel, with aisles, and a tower and spire at the west end. It appears to have been erected about the middle of the fifteenth century. The interior is meat; the nave is divided from the aisles by two pointed arches, and on the south side of the chancel is a curious wooden monu- ment. On a table, the dado of which has five shields, is the effigy of a skeleton, and above it, on another table, is the full-length effigy of a knight in full armour; above is a canopy, and the whole has been richly painted and gilt, Qn the floor is a brass, with the following anagram : - “Thomas Elmehirste, Died 1632, I,o earth misseth me.” There is a free-school here, and one for six poor girls, founded in 1714, by William Skiers. * f Worsbrough hall, a good mansion, is the seat of F. Edmunds, Esq.; and Darnley hall, the seat of W. Newman, Esq. \ - Obadiah Walker, a divine of considerable abilities and learning, was born here in 1616. Among his published works the best is, “ The Greek and Roman History, illustrated by Coins and Medals, 1692,” 8vo. - * In this township is a farm house, called Rockley abbey, formerly a seat of the Rockleys, now the property of the Wentworths. ; The picturesque and beautiful parish of BRODsworth is situate four miles from Doncaster. The population, including Pickburn, amounts to four hundred and seventeen persons. - - The manor and principal estates in this parish, after passing through various hands, became, in 1713, the property of the earl of Kinnoul; his grandson, who died in 1804, sold the whole of the estates to Peter Thellusson, Esq. a merchant of London, who had accumulated an immense fortune in the lottery of commercial speculation. He died at Plaistow, Essex, July 21, 1797, and was buried in the church here. - The extensive estates he left in Brodsworth, Marr, and Hampole, were made subject to the most extraordinary provisions in that singular monument of a miser's mind—his will. These provisions have been contested in every form, and in every THE COUNTY OF YORK. 159 court. In Vesey's Reports, Trinity term, 1805, the argument upon it, legal, political, and moral, is perspicuously detailed.* - * * “In the will, the testator describes himself as Peter Thellusson, of Brodsworth, Esq. of sound and disposing mind, memory, and understanding. He desires to be buried in the vault at Brodsworth, and that the funeral be conducted in a very plain decent manner. He gives to his wife Ann three hundred guineas, with his wines and liquors at his house at Plaistow, and all the jewels in her custody; and after certain legacies to servants, he gives to the trustees of his will the house and lands at Plaistow, with the furniture, horses, and carriages, in trust, to permit his wife to enjoy the same during her widowhood. She is also to be allowed to choose one thousand four hundred ounces out of his plate. This to be in lieu of dower. On her death or marriage, Plaistow with the furniture, &c. to be sold, and the produce to sink into the residue. He also gives to his wife, for life, the proceeds of certain bank stock, which at her death is to be divided among his children then living. He then gives to each of his three sons 37,600 to make up £23,000 with what he had previously given them. He then leaves fortunes to his daughters, and legacies to other relations. The house and fixtures in Philpot- lane he leaves to his trustees, in trust for his three sons, if they should continue partners in business six years, and at the end of the term to be sold, and the money to be divided amongst his sons; but if any son leave the firm within the six years he is to forfeit his share ; the house to be his who remains in business six years. If they all give up business the house to be sold, and the money to form a part of the residue of his personal estate. After some other directions respecting property at Montserrat, &c. he says “the provision which I have made for my said three sons, and the very great success they have met with, will be sufficient to procure them comforts, and it is my earnest wish and desire that they will avoid ostentation, vanity, and pompous show, and be industrious, as that will be the best fortune they can possess.” After some other trifling legacies and directions concerning rings, pictures, &c. he directs that his plate, books, pictures, and furniture, at Brodsworth, except what his trustees may think necessary to keep there, shall be sold, and the produce sink into the residue. He then adds, “I give and devise all my manors or lordships, messuages, lands, tenements, and heredita- ments, situate at Brodsworth, Marr, and Hampole, in the county of York, purchased by me from the right hon, the earl of Kinnoul, and also all my other freehold manors, messuages, lands, tenements and hereditaments lately purchased by me from William Crowther, Thomas Bradford, and the widow Ducket, situate near Hampole, and in the several parishes of Adwick, Thorp, and Owston, near Doncaster in the said county of York; and also the advowson, right of patronage, and presentation of and to the church of Marr ; and all the messuages, &c. for the purchase whereof I have made and entered into any Contract, &c. and all other my real estates whatsoever, unto Matthew Woodford, James Stanley, and Emperor-John-Alexander Woodford, their heirs and assigns for ever, upon the trusts and to the intents and purposes hereinafter expressed.’ He them directs that the residue of his personal estate shall be converted into money, to be laid out by the said trustees in the purchase of freehold or copyhold lands, of which they are to stand seised to the same uses, which are next declared to be “that they shall from time to time (during the natural lives of my sons Peter-Isaac, George-Woodford, and Charles, and of my grandson John Thellusson, son of my said son P. I. Thellusson, and of such other sons as my said son P. I. Thellusson now has or may have, and of such issue as my said grandson John Thellusson may have, and of such issue as any other sons of my said son P. I. Thellusson may have ; and of such sons as my said sons G. W. Thellusson and C. Thellusson may have, and of such issue as such sons may have as shall be living at the time of my decease or born in due time afterwards, and during the natural lives and life of the survivors and survivor of the several persons aforesaid,) collect and receive the rents and profits of the manors or lordships, messuages, lands, tenements, and hereditaments, therein before by me devised, and so to be purchased as aforesaid, and lay them out in the purchase of other freehold or copyhold estates, of which they are also to receive the rents and profits, and lay them out as before.” - CHAP. VI, 160 ". HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Hall. Church. ge Arksey with Bent- ley. * The hall at Brodsworth was inhabited for some years by Mr. Charles Thellusson; and has since been the residence of the receiver appointed by the trustees under the will. 3 The purchases made by the trustees have been very considerable, particularly in the counties of York, Norfolk, Warwick, Hertford, Middlesex, and Durham. About one thousand five hundred acres were bought at Amotherby, near Malton, but the rest of the Yorkshire purchases have been in the vicinity of Brodsworth, viz. at Bilham, Thorpe, Pickburn, Adwick, and Brodsworth. - The benefice is a vicarage, in the presentation of the archbishop of York. It is valued in the Liber regis at £6.6s. 10}d. e { The church is dedicated to St. James, and is an ancient structure, comprising a nave and north aisle, chancel, and tower at the west end. There are several elegant modern tablets, to the memory of the Kinnouls and Thellussons. Scawsby Lees, in this parish, was the place on which the “Pilgrimage of Grace” encamped. ARKsey with BENTLey is a considerable parish town, three miles and a half north “The trustees are empowered to cut down timber and lay out the produce as before directed; to grant leases, and to manage the estates as if they were their own. “Then, after the decease of the survivor of the said several persons before mentioned, an equal partition shall be made by the trustees or the survivor of them and the trustees to be hereafter appointed, of the manors, lands, &c. devised or purchased, into three equal lots, one of which shall be conveyed to the eldest male lineal descendant then living of his son Peter-Isaac Thellusson in tail male, with remainder to the second, third, fourth, and all and every other male lineal descendant or descendants then living, “who shall be incapable of taking as heir in tail male of any of the persons to whom a prior estate is hereby directed to be limited, of my said son P. I Thellusson, successively, in tail male, with remainder in equal moieties to the eldest and every other male lineal descendant or descendants then living of my said sons G. W. Thellusson and Charles Thellusson as tenants in common in tail male, in the same manner as hereinbefore directed with respect to the eldest and any other male lineal descendant and descendants of my said son P. I. Thellusson, with cross remainders between or among such male lineal descendants, as aforesaid of my said sons G. W. Thellusson and Charles Thellusson, in tail male ; or in case there shall,be but one such male lineal descendant, then to such one in tail male.” f • “Another third part to the eldest male lineal descendant of George-Woodford Thellusson, with remainders as before. . “Another third to the eldest male lineal descendant of Charles Theilusson, with like remainders. “In failure of such issue the estates to be sold, and the money paid to the crown, to be applied to the use of the sinking fund, in such manner as shall be directed by act of parliament. “All persons to become entitled to any parts of the estates to take the name of Thellusson, or forfeit. “He concludes thus: “As I have earned the fortunes which.I now possess with industry and honesty, I trust and hope that the legislature will not in any manner alter my will or the limitations,created, but permit my property to go on in the manner in which I hereby dispose of it.” The three trustees, with his wife, are named executors and executrix. It bears date April 2, 1796.”—Hunter's South Yorkshire. - ~ * * THE COUNTY OF YORK. 161 of Doncaster. The population amounts to one thousand one hundred and seventy-one persons. g M - - The manor is now the property of Sir William Bryan Cooke, of Wheatley, Bart. The benefice is a vicarage, dedicated to All Saints, and valued in the Liber regis at £12. 17s. 6d., and in the recent parliamentary returns at £109. Patron, Sir W. B. Cooke, Bart. \ - . . . The church, situate in Arksey, consists of a nave and chancel, with aisles, tran- septs, and a tower and dwarf spire in the centre. The interior is particularly rich in heraldic insignia. The windows have much stained glass, in tolerable repair. The monuments are very numerous, but principally to persons in private life. - & - - * Here is a free grammar school, endowed by the will of B. Cooke, Esq., dated January 3, 1660, and built by the will of Sir George Cooke, Bart., in 1683; and an hospital for twelve of the poorest and oldest people in the parish. At Bentley was formerly an ancient manor house, the seat of one of the most considerable tenancies of the castle and honour of Tickhill. The site of it is still shown, called Mote hill. sº - - SPROTBorough is a small parish town in the liberty of Tickhill, three miles and a half from Doncaster. In 1821, there were three hundred and eighteen inhabitants.” - - r a - *. Sprot occurs in Domesday as a Saxon patronymic at Harewood. When Coningsborough was the king's borough, and Edlington the atheling's town, Sprotborough must have been the abode of some Saxon to whom that name belonged. It is now chiefly noted for having been the place of residence of the ancient family of Fitzwilliam. . - The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £44, 18s. 9d. It is in the patronage of Sir J. Copley, Bart. - - . The church is a neat structure, comprising a nave and side aisle, chancel, and tower at the west end. The interior contains several memorials of noble and distinguished families, particularly those of Fitzwilliam and Copley. The oldest memorials of the ancient lords of Sprotborough, are two effigies of a knight and a lady lying on separate tombs, beneath arches in the wall, after the manner of what are called founders' tombs. The knight is in a suit of chain armour. The head, legs, and feet are completely enveloped in it. Over it is a kind of surcoat, reaching to the knee. On the shield are the fine bold lozenges of Fitzwilliam, which appear also on the breast. The most remarkable part of the lady's attire is a wimple, very finely plaited, which covers the chin. At the feet are two heads, with books open. These statues are in good preservation. * The entire parish contained at the same time four hundred and eighty-seven. CHAP. vi. Church. School. Sprotbo- rough. Church. 162 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. per of our Lott. m.b.ruiſi. Hall. It is impossible to say whom these effigies represent. Albreda de Lizours, wife of Fulk de Lizours (a relative of Roger de Busli), would doubtless be interred in one of the religious houses to which she was a benefactor; and the wife of her son, Sir William Fitzwilliam, was buried at Hampole. We have no account of the place of interment of the two next chiefs of the house, or of their wives. To their age the statues in question might be assigned. *. - In the midst of the chancel is a noble slab of black marble, having had shields affixed to it at the four corners. The brasses of a Fitzwilliam and his wife remain, as does also a plate containing an inscription. He is represented in armour, a pointed helmet, sword and dagger suspended from his belt, his hands joined in prayer, and his feet resting on a lion. She is in a mantle, with a dog at her feet. The inscription is as follows: - - #ic jacent ſeiſſ's fit; IBilliam QP’n’g be $proteburgſ, armiger et éſisabeti; urot ejug filia &gamae Tijamottſ, militis: qui quitem 3Diſſ'm's obiit aput #attiſgan prima bie mengíg QPecemb’ 30 GP’ni jiàiſſ’mo crtco Irpu quattu, et prºbicta ºligabeth . . bic menšić . . . . annu QP’ni äläiſſm’d crtco . . . . - Of William Fitzwilliam, the last of the family, who by his will, dated March 4, 1516, directed that he should be interred here, there is no sepulchral memorial; but his memory is preserved by the following words on the wall-plate of the north aisle : * - 9f moute charitic prap for the gouſe of İlbilliam #it;4Billiam, the mafict betof in the Against the south wall of the chancel is an altar-tomb, to the memory of Sir P. Copley, who died in 1577. On a large alabaster slab are figures of a knight and his lady in tracery, and below them small figures of the children, whose names are inscribed on scrolls over their heads. There is a singular collection of shields of arms on the roof of the nave and north aisle. - º Sprotborough hall was the residence of the late Sir Lionel Copley, and is now that of Sir Joseph Copley, Bart., who succeeded to the inheritance on the death of Sir Lionel without issue. It presents a handsome elevation of stone, in the style of architecture prevalent in the reign of Charles II. In the hall is a good library, principally collected by Sir Godfrey Copley, in which it is said there are a few manuscripts of considerable curiosity. There are also some good portraits, of which the most valuable are those which follow: Henry the Pacific, duke of Mecklenburgh, 1507, aged twenty-eight, in Holbein’s style. Mrs. Butts, wife of Dr. Butts, physician to Henry VIII., by Holbein. Secretary Thurloe, copy from Vandyck. The first Sir Godfrey Copley, by Sir Peter Lely. The second Sir Godfrey Copley, with a letter in his hand, sitting in THE COUNTY OF YORK. 163 a full dress coat, with high embroidered sleeves, and large wig.” Sir Michael and Lady Wentworth. Mr. Prideaux, father of the dean of Norwich, and brother- in-law of Sir Walter Moyle. Sir Joseph Copley, Bart. For nothing has this village more frequently been mentioned than for its cross, or rather the singular piece of ancient rhyme which was engraved upon a plate of brass affixed to it. All the copies which have been published of this inscription are taken from the MS. of Hugh Fitz-William, who says that the cross was pulled down in the year 1520, so that he probably had the inscription only from the report of those who had read it. He gives it thus:– “Who so is hungry and list well eate Let him come to Sprotburgh to his meate, And for a night and for a day *r His horse shall have both corne and hay And no mane shall aske him where he goith away.” + § 1 - In this parish was founded a chantry or free chapel called the Hermitage. A ruin, called “Armsey Chapel,” is shown in the map of the course of the Don, 1724, nearly opposite to the castle of Coningsborough, but in the parish of Sprot- " * “Sir Godfrey Copley, the second baronet, was an early member of the Royal Society, and the founder of the Copley medal, the most honourable distinction which the society has to bestow. To him his successors owe the present mansion at Sprotborough. The old house stood nearer than the present to the site of the church. A plan of it, as it appeared in 1671, is still in existence. The present house was built of the fine stone supplied by the quarries in the neighbourhood. It consists of a main body, nearly square, three stories in height with two wings, and is said to have been built after the model of a wing of the palace of Versailles. There is an engraving of it by Kyp from a drawing by Knyff, in which the gardens, which were laid out in the French or Dutch taste, are repre- sented, with some of the objects in the vicinity. Sir Godfrey employed Henry Cooke the painter for the internal decorations. While he thus provided a suitable residence for his family, he added to the estate by purchases in the vicinity of Sprotborough, and distinguished himself as an active and useful member of the house of commons. He appears to have done more than any of his race for the advancement of the family.”—Hunter. *w- + “This inscription carries us back to the times of our early Norman kings, if not to a period before the conquest, when among the laws respecting hospitality, a very important virtue in a rude state of society, there was one which regulated the time during which a stranger might take up his residence as a stranger in a place distant from his proper domicile. Blount has preserved a curious **. Saxon fragment on this subject : * , - - For an night, uncuth ; Twa night, gueste; Third night, awn hynde. The meaning of which is, that, if a stranger rested only one night, he was to be regarded as a man unknown; if two nights, he became the person described by the word guest; but if three nights, he was to be considered as an inhabitant, and the master of the house was to be answerable for him as for the other members of his household.”—Hunter. . . . CHAP. V. I. Cross. Free chapel. 164 t HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Hospital. borough. It is supposed that this ruin, which was taken down about twenty years ago, was a remain of this foundation. - • . . . An hospital was founded at Sprotborough before 1368, by — Fitz-William. It was dedicated to St. Edmund, and the yearly revenues of which were certified Cadeby. Hooton- Pagnell. Hall. Bilham. Stotford. Rawmarsh Adwick-le- Street. in the thirty-seventh of Henry VIII. to be of the value of £9, 13s. 11d. Cadeby is a small township in this parish, the population of which amounted to one hundred and sixty-nine persons in 1821. - Hooton-PAGNELL is a parish town, six miles from Doncaster, containing a population of three hundred and twenty-six persons.” This village derives its name from Ralph de Paganel, who came over with the Conqueror. - The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £5. 10s. 23d. It is in the patronage of the governors of Wakefield school. The church appears, from some remains, to have been erected in the Norman period. 49 The hall is the seat of St. Andrew Ward, Esq., who has erected, at some distance from the mansion, an elegant structure, called Belvidere or Bellevue, which commands one of the most extensive, and certainly the richest prospects in the West riding of Yorkshire. The cathedrals of York and Lincoln, and sometimes Southwell minster, are distinctly seen, with nearly seventy parish churches. At the township of Bilham is found excellent sand for the use of the iron founderies near Rotherham and Sheffield. Population seventy-four. Stotford is a small township (in the south division of this wapentake.) Rawmarsh is a considerable parish town, situate two miles from Rotherham. The population, in 1821, amounted to one thousand two hundred and fifty-nine souls. . . . - - - The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £8.7s. 33d. It is in the patronage of the lord chancellor. The church is pleasantly situate, and is a neat but ancient structure. • . - Here is a small charity-school, founded in 1600, by Thomas Wilson and Edward Goodwin. Kilnhurst-hall is the seat of W. Turner, Esq. ADWICK-LE-STREET is situate four miles from Doncaster, and has a population of three hundred and forty-six persons.# The prefix Ad is said by Gibson to be nothing more than the Saxon aee, apud. Wick is a fortified enclosure, and the addition of le-Street distinguished it from Adwick-on-the-Dearne. The manor is the property of George Wroughton, Esq. whose mansion is situate near the church. . & - The benefice is a vicarage in the gift of J. Fullerton, Esq. and is valued in the Liber regis at £4. 13s. 4d. * * , -- \ • Enthe parish, four hundred and nine. * The entire parish contains four hundred and eighty-six inhabitants. - THE COUNTY OF York. 165 The ancient church (dedicated to St. Lawrence) of this parish, consisted of a nave and chancel only, a tower, and north aisle. The principal entrance in the south side has the circular arch and cylindrical columns which prevailed in the architecture of the twelfth century. - * * In the north aisle of the chancel are three ancient tombs. One has the effigy of a man, his head resting on a pillow, which is carved lozengée. A small part of CHAP. vi. Church. the inscription remains, viz. “ Hic jacet Jacobus.” . . . . A large tomb of freestone, the upper surface of which is elaborately carved, having in the centre the arms of Fitz-William, within a border, quartering those of Passlew, a fess between three mullets pierced, and at each corner the arms of Fitz-William and Passlew. It is to the memory of John Fitzwilliam, Esq. who died in 1470, and Amicia, his wife, who died in 1477. t In the north-east corner of this chapel is another altar tomb, less ornamented than the one last described, to the memory of Leonard Wray, who died in 1590. Under an arch, between the north aisle and chancel, is a large altar tomb to the memory of an early Washington. The sides are decorated with shields of arms of Washington and Anlaby. The tomb is of freestone, covered by a marble slab, on which are traced the effigies of a man and woman and twelve smaller figures. He is represented in a hat and ruff, with his sword. g The priory of St. Mary of Hampole was situate at the distance of about two miles from Adwick, the ancient highway passing between them. z William de Clairfait and Avicia his wife, a daughter of William de Taini, in the reign of Stephen, is said by Burton to have founded this house about 1170. Mr. Hunter says it was at least fourteen years earlier; for Pope Adrian IV. in 1156, ordered that the nuns of the monastery of St. Mary, in a place called Hanapole, should be of the order of St. Benedict, and granted to them free sepulture to all that freely chose to be buried there. - Isabel Arthington, with about fourteen nuns, surrendered the house, Nov. 19, 1540. Pensions were assigned to them, of which the prioress had £10. The site, with garden, orchard, and dovecote; meadow and pasture ground adjacent; two corn mills; oblations at the church; a pension from the manor lands and tenements of Sir George Fitz-William, knight, at Adwick, called Pilchesilver; falls of wood; minute and privy tithe, was valued at £12. 15s. There are still some small remains of the priory buildings converted into cottages. Four shields might lately be discerned.* - * 1. A fess, between three escallops. The arms of Isabel Arthington, the last prioress. 2. Five fusils in fess. These were probably the heraldic distinction of the house of Hampole, formed from the Tillis and Fitz-Williams lozengé. - 3. A representation of the five wounds of Christ; the heart in the centre, the hands and feet placed in saltier about it. WOL. III. U U Priory. 166 . - HISTORY OF \ BOOK WI. Hampole with Stubbs. Marr, Melton. Barnbo- rough. The township of Hampole with Stubbs has a population of one hundred and forty persons. * , t - . . . The parish of MARR is situate in the liberty of Tickhill, four miles from Doncaster. Population in 1821 amounted to one hundred and sixty-two persons. The manor was sold by George earl of Kinnoul, to Peter Thellusson, Esq. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, valued in the Liber regis at £4. 8s. 4d. It is in the patronage of the earl of Kinnoul. The church is a small plain edificé, containing no memorials particularly deserving notice, with the exception of a monument with a long Latin inscription to the family of Lewys, the ancestors of the celebrated charitable Lady Elizabeth Hastings. MELTON-ON-THE-HILL is a pleasant parish town, in the liberty of Tickhill. It is five miles from Doncaster, and has a population of one hundred and thirty-seven persons. • " . - The manor is the property of R. F. Wilson, Esq. many of whose family is interred in the church of the village.* r - The benefice is a chapelry, valued in the Liber regis at £20. It is in the patronage of R. F. Wilson, Esq. The church is a small but neat edifice, com- prising a nave and aisles, chancel and tower, at the west end. The interior is neat, and from some cylindrical pillars appears to have been of considerable antiquity. . The late Dean Fountayne introduced into this church much painted glass, partly executed by Pecket, of York, and partly collected by him from old ecclesiastical edifices in that city."f - - • The seat of R. F. Wilson, Esq., is a handsome mansion, with extensive grounds. BARNBoRough is a parish town, situate six miles west of Doncaster. The popu- lation, in 1821, amounted to four hundred and sixty-six persons. “The name,” says Mr. Hunter, “is the Borough of Beorn, no unusual patronymic in the Saxon times.” - - The village is remarkable for a tradition relative to a singular and fatal contest between a man and a wild cat. The inhabitants say that the fight began in an adjacent wood, and that it was continued from thence into the porch of the church, where it ended fatally to both the combatants, as each there expired of the wounds received in the conflict. “A rude representation in the church com- memorates the event; and, as in similar traditions, the accidentally natural red 4. Emblems of the passion—the cross, with crown, Sponge, and spear. Burton says that, “the chapel stood on the north side of the old hall, betwixt that and the little beck, and the ground is now called Chapel Green.” * Wide Hunter's South Yorkshire, vol. i. D. 867, for a full account of the monuments to this family in Melton church. - t Hunter's South Yorkshire, vol. i. p. 369. * THE COUNTY OF YORK. 167 tinge of some of the stones, has been eonstrued into bloody stains, which all the properties of soap and water have not been able to efface.” “ - . - The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £23. Patrons, the preben- daries of Southwell collegiate church, Nottinghamshire. The church, dedicated to St. Peter, is a good edifice, erected in the fourteenth century, consisting of a nave with side aisles, a tower at the west end, and a chancel. The only addition to the original design is in the north chancel, where was probably the chantry of St. Mary.4 - In the east window are some remains of the painted glass with which it was formerly adorned. *. & * * The north aisle of the chancel has evidently been a private chapel, being separated from the rest of the aisle by screen-work, and containing its piscina. And, as little reason can there be to doubt that it was a chapel of the Cresacres, and particularly consecrated to the recollection of Percival Cresacre, who has a very remarkable monument here. - - *} - The north aisle is separated from the chancel by a wall, in which a richly ornamented flat arch is extended over an altar tomb, which thus stands between the two chancels, and is equally visible from both. The side towards the chancel has been the most highly wrought. At the crown of the arch is a shield, with the arms of Cresacre; and the side of the tomb is ornamented with seven shields, which once contained the arms of Bosvile, Wombwell, Cresacre, Wastenys, Woodruffe, Fitz-William, and Wortley, all near connexions of the party intended to be par- ticularly commemorated. On the tomb lie the effigies of Cresacre himself, cut in oak, and therefore far better preserved than if it had been in stone or marble. He is represented in a suit of plate armour, with his arms painted on the shield. The sword which hung to his belt has been removed. He has mustachios, his hands joined, his legs crossed, and a lion at his feet. - When looked at from the west, the end of the tomb and arch are so contrived as to assume the form of a cross, on the shaft of which a rich rosary is carved. On the head of the cross is an inscription, indicating whose memory this curious piece of monumental architecture is intended to preserve:- Ora pro anima Parcivalli Cresacre Et pro anima Aliciae Cresacre uxoris ejus. Est Ave Maria proxima via ducere coelum. asº *Bingley's Animal Biography, vol. i. p. 281. The wild cat was formerly an object of diversion to our hunters, and its skin was esteemed a valuable fur; but the race is now nearly, if not wholly, extinct in England. . . . . . . - . . . . . . g t Forty pounds was granted by the Incorporated Society for enlarging Churches and Chapels, towards procuring more accommodation for the poor in this church. Fifty-three free sittings were made. CHAP. VI. Church. 168 - HISTORY OF Book VI. ~ Hall. Bolton. Church. At the foot of the cross, which is at the same time the west end of the tomb :- Specula in corde culpas animae. E. i., § 5, fidelis 9 §ly © elige dum vivis. One or two words in this last inscription are affected with some uncertainty. There are other moral inscriptions on different parts of the tomb. - A brass plate is preserved at the hall of Barnborough, which was evidently once g in the church, bearing this inscription:— “Anna filia unica et heres Edwardi Cresacre de Baronburgh prope Doncastrum in com. Ebor. armigeri nupta Johanni More unicſo filio ejt heredi Thomae More militis quondam Domini Cancellarii Angliae. Quae Anna ex hac vità decessit secundo die Decembris anno aetatis suæ LXVII anno Domini N M. cccdc. LXXVII.” This seat is now the residence of Mrs. Griffith. - sº - Here is a mansion belonging to the family of More. It is in a retired situation, a short distance from the church. Deserted by its owners, it has been inhabited, many years, by the Misses Griffith, daughters of a rector of Hansworth. “There are three paintings pertaining to the family of More. One, the portrait of a priest of about the age of Charles I., with the arms of More, quartering, on a chevron between three unicorns' heads as many plates. Another is a copy of Holbein’s large picture of the More family, now in possession of the Winns of Nostell, who inherit it by descent from the Ropers; the third is said to have shown the family of Cresacre More; but this, for what reason I know not,” says Mr. Hunter, “has been long concealed by paper pasted on the wainscot upon which it is painted.” The Grange is the seat of Francis Fawkes, Esq. It is finely situate in a pleasant and fertile vale. - Bolton-upon-DEARNE is a parish town, in the liberty of Tickhill, seven miles and a-half from Rotherham. The population of this place, in 1821, amounted to six hundred and twenty-three persons. This village lies on the line of road traced by those who believe in the existence of a Roman-road from Templeborough to Castleford. It is certain that there was a bridge over the Dearne at this place at an early period, the pontage of which was an early subject of dispute, as may be seen in the Hundred rolls, where Walter de Vere, or Pratt, and his brothers, are charged with usurpations respectin it during the troubles. g - The church here was founded before the date of Domesday, and may therefore be referred to the Saxon times. The patronage of it did not pass entirely to the lords of either of the Norman fees. It is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £6, 15s. 5d. ; but in the parliamentary returns, at £70., and is now in the THE COUNTY OF YORK. 169 patronage of W. Marsden, Esq. The church consists of a nave, chancel, and aisles, with a tower at the west end. . r - ADwick-UPON-DEARNE is situate six miles from Rotherham, and has a population of one hundred and sixty-eight persons. It is partly in the liberty of Tickhill. The present Earl Manvers is lord of the manor of Adwick, and has nearly all the land in demesne. - The benefice is a curacy, valued in the Liber regis at £20. It is held with the vicarage of Wath. CHAP. VI." Adwick. The church is the purest specimen remaining, in the deanery of Doncaster, of Church. the original village church. It has no tower, no side aisles, but simply a nave and chancel, with a little shed on the roof, in which two bells are hung. “The simplicity of the structure, and the narrow lancet-shaped windows, show it,” says Mr. Hunter, “ to be the original fabric erected in the time of Swein.” The greater part of the lands of this manor being held in demesne, and the lords residing in other parishes, there are no sepulchral monuments deserving notice in this edifice. - - The parish town of THURNscoe is situate eight miles from Doncaster, and has a population of two hundred and five persons. Thurnscoe The benefice is a rectory, dedicated to St. Helen, and valued, in the Liber regis, at £11. 7s. 8%d. Patron, Earl Fitzwilliam. The church is a neat edifice. Charles Palmer, Esq. has a handsome seat here. - WATH-UPoN-DEARNE is an extensive parish.* The town, with a population of one thousand and one persons, is situate six miles from Rotherham. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £15. 10s. 2%d. The patronage is in the dean and canons of Christchurch, Oxford. The church, dedicated to All Saints, is a neat structure, consisting of a nave, chancel, and aisles, with a tower at the west end. . - Here is a national school, founded by the trustees of Mrs. Ellis's charity, in 1819. The township of Brompton Bierlow has one thousand two hundred and sixty- three inhabitants. f - * Nether Hoyland is a considerable chapelry, having a population of one thousand two hundred and twenty-nine persons. . The chapel is a perpetual curacy, valued in the Liber regis at £5. 3s. 2d. F. Townsend, Esq. is patron. - - - A new church is in course of erection, at Upper Hoyland, in this township. It will have a good tower and spire. - -- : The chapelry of Swinton has a population of one thousand and fifty persons. * The entire population of this parish, in 1821, amounted to five thousand eight hundred and twelve persons. WOL. III. X X Wath. Brompton Bierlow. Nether Hoyland. Swinton. 170 * HISTORY OF Book VI. Went- worth. Chapel. *x The benefice is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Mary, and valued, in the parliamentary returns, at £132. 10s. It is in the patronage of the vicar of Wath. The chapel is small, but is celebrated among antiquaries and architects, as possessing one of those fine circular doors almost peculiar to this county. The south entrance is of early Norman architecture, intermixed with Saxon. The arch of entrance is circular, and is bounded by several toruses, springing from an impost; the angles of the jambs are worked into slender columns. The head of the arch is divided from the rest of the opening by a transom stone, and pro- bably was ornamented with sculpture. It is now glazed. Above the first arch is a second moulding, enriched with masks of animals, paterre, &c., which springs from * an impost, resting on a Norman column; another arch of chevron-work, also sustained on columns, bounds the whole frontispiece. *, • A considerable portion of this chapel was rebuilt a few years ago. Two farms, lying in this township, which belong to Earl Fitzwilliam, every year change their parish, for one year from Easter-day, at twelve at noon, till next Easter-day, at the same hour, they lie in the parish of Mexborough : and then, till Easter-day following, at the same hour, they are in the parish of Wath- upon-Dearne, and so on alternately.* - - . The chapelry of Wentworth, with a population of one thousand two hundred and sixty-nine persons, is a neat and picturesque village. The chapel here is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and valued, in the return to parliament, at £120. Patron, Earl Fitzwilliam. It is a small but neat edifice, comprising a nave and north aisle, chancel and north aisle, and embattled tower at the west end. On the south side is a noble porch, enriched with Ionic pilasters. The interior is adorned with several monuments of the Wentworth family. On the north side of the chancel, in a niche, is a graceful figure of a man in armour, kneeling. Beneath is inscribed:— e- “Thomas Wentworth, Earle of Strafforde, Viscount Wentworth of Wentworth Wood house, New- marsh, Ottersley and Raby, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, Lord President of the north of England, and Knight of the most noble Order of the Garter. His birth was upon Good Friday, the 18th of Apl. 1593. His death upon the 12th of May, 1641. His soule through the mercy of God lives in Eternall blisse, and his memory will never dye in these kingdomes.” In the chancel are two table monuments, one has a full-length effigy of a knight and his lady in alabaster. The other two are similar figures, but of earlier date. In the centre of the church-yard is a large and elegant enclosure of iron railing, inscribed:— - * * - - “This place of burial was constructed A. D. M.DCCC.XXVII. by William Earl Fitzwilliam and Charles William Viscount Milton, for the Wentworth branch of their descendants, in the hope that they may so pass through things temporal, that they lose not the things eternal.” .* Blount’s Ancient Tenures. . -- - - * THE COUNTY OF YORK. - 171 Wentworth house, the noble residence of the Right Hon. Earl Fitzwilliam, is situate between Barnsley and Rotherham, at the distance of four miles from the latter town, in the midst of a beautiful country, and in the centre of a park that is one of the most exquisite spots in the kingdom. The mansion, for extent and magnificence, is not excelled; it consists of an irregular quadrangle, enclosing three courts, with two grand fronts; the principal one to the park, and extends in a line upwards of six hundred feet, forming a centre and two wings. Nothing in architecture can be finer than this facade. A noble rusticated stylobate, sixty feet long, projecting twenty feet, supports six magnificent Corinthian columns, on pedestals, with a ballustrade enclosing the area. These columns support an angular pediment, within which are the arms of the marquis of Rockingham;” and on the architrave, immediately above the capitals of the columns, is that nobleman's motto, “MEA GLORIA FIDES.” On the pediment are placed three elegant statues, and one at each of the angles of the principal front, with vases and a ballustrade. The wings are in a similar style of architecture, and the effect of the entire edifice is at once pleasing and magnificent. - - The interior is very superbly fitted up. The grand hall is sixty feet square, and forty feet high, with a gallery, ten feet wide, carried round the whole, leaving the area a cube of forty feet; this justness of proportion gives it an advantage over every room of the kind. The gallery is supported by eighteen fluted Ionic columns, the shafts of Sienna, with the bases and capitals of white marble. In niches between the columns are marble statues, over which are medallions, containing relievos from the designs of Athenian Stuart; above the gallery the roof is supported by Corinthian pilasters, connected by festoons, and the ceiling is executed in orna- CHAP. VI. House. mental compartments. To the left of the grand hall is a noble suite of apartments, consisting of a supper-room, forty feet by twenty-two feet. The chimney-piece, of white marble, contains in the frieze a plain shield, supported by a griffin and a lion, the columns festooned and finely sculptured. There is also a drawing-room, thirty-five feet by twenty-three feet. A dining-room, forty feet square; here are medallions, in wreaths, of Theocritus, Hector, Agamemnon, Hyacinthus, Hamilcar, and Troilus. - . . . . - - On the opposite side of the grand hall, are a suite of apartments, comprising an ante-room, thirty feet by twenty feet. A grand drawing-room, thirty-six feet square ; a dressing-room, thirty feet by twenty-five feet; a state bedchamber, twenty-five feet square; and another dressing-room, eleven feet square. The gallery is one hundred and thirty feet long, by eighteen feet wide. * The mansion contains many other splendid apartments, which are adorned with * This mansion was built by Thomas, the first marquis of Rockingham, who was made Knight of the Bath by George I., and advanced to the peerage in the succeeding reign. He died in 1750. 172 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Park. Mauso- leum. a collection of pictures, formed with great judgment and taste. The following particularly deserve notice: A Sleeping Cupid, by Guido; Diana and Endymion, by West ; Cymon and Iphigenia, by the same master; an equestrian portrait of George II. ; Portrait of an Old Servant, by Stubbs; Horses, by the same ; a Portuguese Courtezan, by Paul Giordano; the Descent from the Cross, by Caracci; Lucretia stabbing herself, by Guido ; a Magdalen, by Titian; and the famous. picture of Lord Strafford and his Secretary, by Vandyck, said to be the finest painting by that master. In the chapel, among several others, is a large and beautiful painting of Samson slaying the Philistines, by Luca Giordano; the Head of Christ, crowned with thorns, by Guido; and a boldly expressive representation of the Preparations for St. Bartholomew's Martyrdom, by Spagnoletto. The library, sixty feet long and twenty wide, contains a good collection of books, prints, and medals. The museum, also, contains some fine antiques. The stables form a large quadrangle, enclosing a court of one hundred and ninety feet square, with a fine front towards the park. . - - Wentworth park comprises upwards of one thousand five hundred acres of beautifully variegated ground, richly clothed with wood, and embellished with expanses of water. There are also several ornamental buildings erected in different parts of the park. South of the mansion, on a considerable elevation, is the magnificent mausoleum, erected by the present Earl Fitzwilliam in honour of his uncle, the late marquis of Rockingham, whose upright and patriotic conduct as a statesman will for ever shine in our political annals, while human nature derives a lustre from his private character. This superb monument, of a very fine sqrt of freestone, stands to the right of the grand entrance into the park from the Rotherham road. Its height is s ninety feet, and consists of three divisions. The first is a square Doric basement; the second story is of the same form, but of the Ionic order, each of its four sides opening into an arch, and disclosing a beautiful sarcophagus standing in the centre: on the frieze of the entablature over the arches is this inscription, in Roman cha- racters: “ This monument was erected by Wentworth, Earl Fitzwilliam, 1788, to the memory of Charles marquis of Rockingham.” This is surmounted by a cupola, supported by twelve columns of the same order. At each corner of the railing that encloses this superb structure is a lofty obelisk. But the most interesting part is the interior of the lower story. This is an apartment rising into a dome, and supported by eight columns, encircling a white marble statue of the marquis in his robes, as large as life, by Nollekens.” - * The statue stands on a square pedestal ; on one side of which are inscribed the titles of this great THE COUNTY OF YORK. 173 In the wall of this apartment, within the pillars, are four recesses, in which are CHAP. VI. eight busts of fine white marble, placed in the following order:-To the right of man ; the other three pay a noble tribute to his memory, in just and deserved eulogium. The verses were composed by Frederick Montague, Esq., and are as follows: “Angels, whose guardian care is England, spread Your shadowing wings o'er patriot Wentworth dead : With sacrediawe his hallowed ashes keep, Where commerce, science, honour, friendship, weep The pious hero—the deeply sorrowing wife, All the soft ties that blest his virtuous life. Gentle, intrepid, generous, mild, and just ; These heartfelt titles grace his honoured dust. No fields of blood by laurels ill repaid ; No plundered provinces disturb his shade : But white-robed Peace composed his closing eyes, And join’d with soft Humanity her sighs : They mourn-their patron gone, their friend no more, And England's tears his short-lived power deplore.” The following character, in prose, is by the celebrated Edmund Burke: “A man worthy to be held in remembrance, because he did not live for himself. His abilities, industry, and influence were employed, without interruption, to the last hour of his life, to give stability to the liberties of his country; security to its landed property; increase to its commerce ; independence to its public counsels; and concord to its empire. These were his ends. For the attainment of these ends, his policy consisted in sincerity, fidelity, directness, and constancy. In opposition he respected the principles of government: in administration he provided for the liberties of the people. He employed his moments of power in realizing every thing that he had professed, in a popular situation, the distinguishing mark of his public conduct. Reserved in profession, sure in per- formance, he laid the foundation of a solid confidence. “He far exceeded all other statesmen in the art of drawing together, without the seduction of self interest, the concurrence and co-operation of various dispositions and abilities of men whom he assimilated to his character, and associated in his labours: for it was his aim through life to convert party connexion and personal friendship, which others had rendered subservient only to temporary views, and the purposes of ambition, into a lasting depository of his principles; that their energy should not depend upon his life, nor fluctuate with the intrigues of a court, or with capricious fashions amongst the people; but that, by securing a succession in support of his maxims, the British constitution might"be preserved, according to its true genius, on ancient foundations, and institutions of tried utility. - r “The virtues of his private life, and those which he exhibited in the service of the state, were not, in him, separate principles. His private virtues, without any change in their character, expanded with the occasion into enlarged public affections. The very same tender, benevolent, feeling, liberal mind, which, in the internal relations of life, conciliated the genuine love of those who see men as they are, rendered him an inflexible patriot. He was devoted to the cause of freedom, not because he was haughty and intractable, but because he was beneficent and humane. “A sober, unaffected, unassuming piety, the basis of all true morality, gave truth and permanence to his virtues. - * “He died at a fortunate time, before he could feel, by a decisive proof, that virtue like his must be mourished from its own substance only, and cannot be assured of any external support. - ** Let WOL. III, Y Y 174 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. the entrance are Edmund Burke and the duke of Portland; in the second, Frederick Montague and Sir George Saville; in the third, Charles James Fox and Admiral Keppel; in the fourth, John Lee and Lord George Cavendish. The stranger who visits this hallowed spot must be struck with the reflection, that in erecting this superb monument to the honour of a statesman and a patriot whose name will ever be dear to posterity, the present Earl Fitzwilliam has shown himself inspired by those virtues which adorned his illustrious relative. Many other ornamental temples break in upon the eye at every angle. From out of the bosom of a majestic wood, about a mile south of the house, a graceful Doric column rears its head; erected by the late marquis of Rockingham, to commemorate the acquittal of his friend, Admiral Keppel. The noble family of Fitzwilliam is of great antiquity, and may be traced to Sir William Fitz Godric, a Saxon, cousin to King Edward the Confessor. His son, Sir William Fitzwilliam, being ambassador at the Court of the duke of Normandy, attended him in his expedition to England in the year 1066; and for the bravery which he displayed at the battle of Hastings, the Conqueror gave him a scarf from his own arm. This Sir William Fitzwilliam married Emma, daughter and heiress of Monsieur de Solabis, a Norman knight, and by her was father of Sir William Fitzwilliam, who, by his marriage with Eleanor, daughter and heiress of Sir John Emley, of Emley and Sprotborough, brought those estates into his family. The illustrious family of Wentworth is also of Saxon origin. William Went- worth, earl of Strafford, devised the ancient estate of the Wentworths to his nephew, the honourable Thomas Watson Wentworth, third son of Edward Lord Rockingham.* He was grandfather to that eminent statesman and patriot, the late Marquis of Rockingham, from whom these estates descended to the present noble possessor, Earl Fitzwilliam. “Let his successors, who daily behold this monument, consider that it was not built to entertain the eye, but to instruct the mind Let them reflect, that their conduct will make it their glory or their reproach. Let them feel, that similarity of manners, not proximity of blood, gives them an interest in this statue.” - “Remember, resemble, persevere.” * Drake's Ebor. fol. 511. where are engraved plates of the monuments of the uncle and nephew in York cathedral. - • * , .. - THE county of York. 175 CHAPTER VII. - SURVEY OF THE SOKE OF DONCASTER. THE soke of Doncaster contains the parishes of C H A P. VII. DON CASTER, LovERSALL, RossINGTON, AND PART of The PARISH of FINNINGLEY. DoNCASTER" is a fine market and borough town, situate on the high road Doncaster. between London and York; it is seven miles nearly north from Tickhill, nine miles north-west from Bawtry, twelve miles north-east of Rotherham, and twelve miles south-west from Thorne. This town is pleasantly situate on the south bank of the river Don, on a narrow ridge of land running between that river on the north, and a range of marshes, called Potteric Car, on the south. The entrance from Bawtry is very spacious: at first the race-ground, enclosed by a beautiful railing, the grand stand, a superb boarding-school for young ladies, and a large and lofty house lately built by J. H. Maw, Esq. all at once meet the eye; and afterwards the fine obelisk, called Hall cross, presents itself to the view, together with a range of most elegant houses. The High street, with Hall gate, French gate, and Marsh gate, extends nearly a mile in length, from the Hall cross on the south-east, to the Mill bridge on the north-west; and from the north-eastern extremity of the town, to the west-end of St. Sepulchre's gate, in the road to Rotherham and Sheffield, the distance exceeds half a mile. On the eastern side of St. Sepulchre's gate several new streets have been lately laid out, and many commodious and handsome houses are already built in that quarter. The town is in general well-built, except towards the south-western extremity of St. Sepul- chre's gate, Marsh gate, on the north-side of the Don, and that part which lies between the corn market and the river. In 1821, this borough contained eight thousand five hundred and forty-four persons, and one thousand eight hundred and seventy-four houses. . . . . . . ..! & - Some authors have been so rash as to state, that Doncaster was founded A. M. Early his- 2909, by Madan, the son of Locrine and Guendoline. This fiction is as palpable tory. • The parish is partly in the north division of Strafforth and Tickhill wapentake. In 1821, it contained nine thousand one hundred and seventeen inhabitants. t Beauties of England and Wales—Yorkshire, p. 849. 176 - HISTORY OF BOOK WI. as that of the author of “Reliquiae Eboracenses,” professedly a work of imagina- tion, who attributes the foundation to a hero, who has at least the merit of being better known to us. “Arma rapit primum nostrae gens accola ripaº DAUNIA: quam Daunus cari post funera Turni - Laurentum fugiens, et Teucris obsita regna, Has secum pelago vectam trajecit in oras. Hic metam exilio, sedes sociisque quietas Invenit ; celsam et cognomine condidit arcem.” ass" Others contend that Doncaster is Thong-caster, and attribute to it the celebrated story of the bull’s hide. They represent Hengist and Horsa as the persons by whom the boundaries of this town were thus marked out. But nothing can be more certain than that Doncaster had an existence long before their time. Leland has thought not undeserving his attention an opinion of Bishop Tunstall, one of the revivers of our national history, that Doncaster is Duana Castra, because the second legion had wintered there. * Leaving historical and poetical fiction, the true origin of Doncaster is undoubtedly to be found in the necessity for some means of crossing the Don at this place; and the name is nothing more than the caerene on the Don, the Castrum ad flumen Dani. - One of the great Roman roads traversed the river at the point where now stands the town of Doncaster. It connected the two great stations, Lincoln and York. “And as there is reason to believe that both these were British settlements, it is probable that the road was an improved British trackway, used for communication between Lincolnshire and the interior of the Brigantian territory; and for the communication between Lincoln and York, when by any means the passage across the Humber was obstructed.” + The ford at Doncaster would require the protection of a castle. The eminence on which the church of St. George now stands, overlooking the river, and on which there has been a succession of what may be called public edifices in all later times, WaS peculiarly favourable to the Romans for this purpose. Stukeley expresses himself with some hesitation; but there can hardly be a doubt that the Roman castrum indicated in the name Doncaster, was, as he says, “ by the river-side, where the church and the parsonage-house stand.” That the Romans had a castrum at Doncaster does not depend on the name, nor is it a conclusion deduced by probable and conjectural reasoning. The fact is distinctly stated in the Notitia: “Praefectus Equitum Crispianorum: Dano.” That Danum is Doncaster is proved by the Itinerary in which the road from Lincoln Roman road. * Coll. iii. 46. t Hunter's South Yorkshire. THE COUNTY OF YORK. … 177 to York is laid down. The praefect of the Crispian Horse was an officer of high rank under the Dux Britanniarum. - f It is probable that the Romans did for Doncaster what they appear to have done for other stations,—throw up a mound, which encompassed and defended the people who inhabited it. That such a defence did once exist is evident, as well from the gates, of which there is mention throughout the middle ages, as from the traces of it which a century ago were not totally obliterated. This town and its immediate neighbourhood has not added to our collection of Roman antiquities so abundantly as have the other stations on the same road. Only one fixed subject has been discovered. It is an altar to the Mother God- desses. It was found in Sepulchre gate in 1781, six feet beneath the surface of the earth. The material is limestone. The height thirty inches. The back is unwrought, which shows that it was intended to stand against a wall. The orna- ments on the sides are a flower-pot and a sacrificial vessel. The front has the following inscription:- - “Matribvs Magnis Nonnivs Antonivs ob Romanorvm totam alam votum solvit lubens merito.” It is clearly a votive altar to the Dead Matres, to whom many altars were raised in Britain, as may be seen in Horsley. - There was here, during the Saxon period, a villa regia of the kings of Northumberland. It was the occasional residence of the sovereign, and formed a part of the demesne of the crown. At York there was another, at Aldby on the Derwent a third, and there were others in Bernicia; each in its turn the seat of Northumbrian sovereignty. . - A fact not less interesting, disclosed by the venerable Bede, is, that the second Christian temple erected in Northumbria was at Doncaster. The first was at York, built of wood, and raised in haste, for the baptism of King Edwin in 627. The language of Bede favours the supposition that these two only were erected under the personal observation of Paulinus and his patron King Edwin. But it is enough to give all the sanctity which can be derived from antiquity to the church of Doncaster, that it was first founded by Paulinus between the years 627 and 633, who raised its walls of timber under the immediate inspection of Edwin, the first Christian king of Northumbria. - - On Edwin being slain on the Heath field, Hatfield, in 633, Cadwallo and Penda immediately fell upon Doncaster, and so totally destroyed the villa regia, that the future kings of Northumbria never attempted to restore it, but erected another further from the frontier. ... • - s. The next event in which Doncaster is mentioned occurs in 833. The Danes having made many descents upon our shores, and particularly infested the lands WOL. III. Z Z C IH A P. VII. Roman altar. Saxon pa- lace. 178 - HISTORY OF B’)()K VI. Value of the manor. which lay near the great estuary of the Humber, they were often repulsed; and one of the most signal discomfitures given to the invading army by King Edward is said to have been at Doncaster in the above year. - . The value of the manor and soke of Doncaster was rated in the time of the Confessor at £18. At the time of the Domesday survey it was £12. This was a great depreciation; but not equal to what took place in other portions of the district. . * - . . . The manor and soke had been held by Earl Tosti before the conquest. He was succeeded by Robert, earl of Morton, who was half-brother to the king. Morton, or Moriton, was in Normandy, and the earl held in England a very extensive honour lying in fifteen counties. It was soon forfeited by this earl or his successor. We do not find either earl exercising any act of ownership over that large portion of his honour which lay in the county of York; and indeed it is evident from Domesday, that the first earl, before the date of that survey, had placed under him two persons, who held, by what rent or service is not known, his whole Yorkshire lands. These were Richard the deaf, and Nigel Fossard, who is noticed in Domesday book. He was the ancestor of a race of lords of Doncaster who continued to possess the interest he enjoyed there till the reign of King Henry V." His rights are now vested, by a grant of King Henry VII, in the corporation of Doncaster. The name of the earls of Morton does not afterwards appear, but the descendants of Nigel are represented as holding in chief of the king, and were amongst the barons of the realm. In 1157, according to Fordun, an interview took place at Doncaster between Henry II. and Malcolm king of Scotland, when Malcolm did homage for Cum- berland, as his father had done to Henry I. In 1163 Malcolm was again at Doncaster, on his return to Scotland from Woodstock, where he had again done homage, and fell, as the historian says, dangerously ill there. It was at Doncaster that the friends of Richard assembled, when the dubious conduct of Earl John gave room for suspicion and alarm. Thither. came Geffery, archbishop of York, who, as well as Hameline, at that time lord of Coningsborough, was an illegitimate son of Geffery Plantagenet; Hugh Bardolf, the king’s justice, and William Stutevile. A considerable army was collected, and the archbishop proposed to attack the castle of Tickhill, which was garrisoned by John. Bardolf and Stutevile refused, on the Interview - hetween Henry II. and Mal- colm. * “In the reign of Henry I. Robert Fossard appears to have pledged his manor of Doncaster to the king for five hundred marks. When Stephen joined the crown he gave Doncaster, as if the entire right was then in him, to Henry, prince of Scotland, together with the honour of Huntingdon, and took his homage for them in February, 1136. But three years afterwards, Robert Fossard paid the five hundred marks to the king to repossess his lordship of Doncaster.”—Hunter's South Yorkshire, vol. i. p. 9. - THE COUNTY of York. 179 ground that they were homines of Earl John, and could not, without breaking their allegiance, attack a castle of their lord's. The archbishop withdrew himself from Doncaster, and the whole ended in a treaty. In 1204 this town was entirely C. H. A. P. VII. . destroyed by fire: “Danecastria in vigiliá Pascha funditus combusta est.” This is the expression used by the continuator of Hoveden, whose chronicle is incor- porated with that of Melros: and it is probable that the destruction was, as it is here represented, total. Camden, between three and four centuries after, observed marks of fire near the church. * In the wars of the rival roses Doncaster appears rather to have been a place through which the contending armies must have passed and repassed, than the scene of any important operations, except in the year 1470, when there was an attempt to dethrone King Edward. Immediately after the decisive battle at Stamford the king came to Doncaster, and there beheaded Sir Robert Welles” and Sir Ralph Grey. He was buried in the Carmelite cemetery, and there Elizabeth his relict, who was daughter of John Bourchier, Lord Berners, by her last will, directed that her body should repose beside her husband. After this the king pursued the remains of the Lancastrian party, but left a considerable force at Doncaster. At the end of summer, when the earl of Warwick had returned to England, and was for a while successful in the west, Edward found that the force left at Doncaster withdrew themselves from him, influenced by Nevil, whom he had lately made Marquis Montacute, and who now deserted his interest. Montacute had remained at Pontefract while Edward was pursuing Clarence and Warwick from Lancashire º to the coast of Devon. F - - * . - The borough of Doncaster was incorporated by charter of King Edward IV., with power to elect a mayor; and in this body inhered the rights and privileges which the burgesses, from time immemorial, had possessed. - Henry VII., in the twentieth year of his reign, made a full grant to the incorpo- rated burgesses, of all the property, corporeal or incorporeal, which the crown had acquired at Doncaster; with the courts leet, view of frank pledge, waters, mills, channels, and water-courses, fairs, markets, tolls, piccages, stallages, pontages, passages, with all profits and emoluments whatsoever: which is given to the mayor and community, to hold as fully and freely as the king or any of his predecessors have held it, at the rent of £74. 13s. 113d. - * This grant, which made so material an alteration in the state of Doncaster, bears date at Westminster, on 14th of J uly, 20th Henry VII. 1505. The king, at the same time, added other privileges to those contained in the charter of Edward IV.f * His confession before execution may be found in the Harl. MS. 283. + Hunter, vol. i. p. 16. : “They were to hold every half year a court leet or view of frank pledge before the steward or Incorpora tion 180 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Visited by James I. The proceedings of this body form, therefore, for the most part, the history of the town; and of these proceedings some curious notices follow, from their own journal, which commences in 1568. - - •º. In 1569, during the rebellion of the earls of Westmoreland and Northumberland, Doncaster was secured by the lord Darcy. The scheme was ill-concerted, and no proper preparations made for carrying it forward. Camden says, that on the twelfth day after they had actually taken up arms, the two earls reviewed their forces on Bramham moor, and then determined on retreating northward. A letter, however, of Cecil’s seems to show that there were movements in the near neighbourhood of Doncaster. He says that “the rebels came down to Tadcaster, Ferrybridge, and Doncaster, and met with no resistance till, at Doncaster, the lord Darcy, with certain men whom he was leading to York, did very valiantly repulse a number of them, whereupon they retired to Richmondshire.” - In 1588, during the height of the alarm concerning the Spanish invasion, the earl of Huntingdon was at Doncaster, raising and training soldiers. e In 1617, King James was at Doncaster, on his progress to Scotland, to whic he then paid his only visit after his accession to the throne of England. He lodged at a Mr. Gargrave's, but whether an inn or a private house, is uncertain. In a letter of the time, it is said that he knighted an innkeeper, “a host” of Doncaster, in this progress.” . - In 1640, it was determined that the election of a mayor should in future be by ballot, and not by open vote, as heretofore. - In August, 1641, the army which had been raised against the Scots, was dis- banded at Doncaster, by the earl of Holland. In the July of the next year, the king was at Doncaster, making preparation for the great struggle which was at hand. r Amº- The commission of array was executed on Scawsby Lees, by Sir Ralph Hansby, and other friends to the royal cause. But at the close of the year 1642, Doncaster was in the power of the parliament, one of the Hothams being there, by whose recorder, or his deputy ; they were to have the superintendency of the assize of bread and ale, and all victuals; also waif, strays, infangtheof, and outfangtheof; goods of felons and fugitives, wreck of the sea, and all forfeited goods and chattels whatever, within the said manor ; ; a market on every Tuesday and Saturday ; a fair for three days at the feast of St. James, and another at the Annun- ciation: all which were clearly rights which had inhered in the ancient feudal lords. They were empowered to choose a steward or recorder to preside, in person or by deputy, at the courts; to hold a court every Thursday at the Guildhall to hear and determine all plaints, pleas, &c. within the manor; to have two serjeants at mace to execute warrants, &c. throughout the whole lordship ; that the mayor, recorder, and three aldermen, shall be justices of the peace within the manor; that they shall have return of writs within the manor, and a gaol within the precincts of the town.”—Hunter, Vol. i. p. 14. - - - * Nichols' Progresses and Processions of King James, vol. iii. p. 269. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 181 influence and exertions it chiefly was, that an army was raised for the parliament in Yorkshire. - - After the decisive battle of Marston moor, the earl of Manchester established, for a time, his head-quarters at Doncaster; from whence he sent out portions of his victorious army to reduce the royal garrisons in this part of the kingdom. When, in August, 1645, the king had formed the design of marching to join the marquis of Montrose in Scotland, he came from Welbeck to Doncaster. He entered the town on Monday, the 18th of August, having slept the night before at Edlington. He had with him three thousand foot. But the spirits of his friends were broken by the reverses he had experienced; and the report that Leslie was at Rotherham, with the Scotch army, induced the king to abandon his design ; so that on Wednesday he left Doncaster, and marched to Retford. For nothing is Doncaster more frequently mentioned in the history of these times, than for the death of Colonel (or General) Rainsborough, who was killed in the midst of his army, as it lay at Doncaster, by a small party from Pontefract castle. The circumstances, according to Mr. Hunter, were these:– “In 1648, the castle of Pontefract was the only royal garrison in the north. The place had once been taken after a tedious siege, but had been recovered by the address, the enterprise, and the treachery of Colonel Morris. A knot of valiant and despairing royalists was collected, who were accustomed to make predatory excursions, going out in parties, often to a great distance, and returning; so little attentive was the beleaguering army. They were indeed only a few country troops, who were left by Cromwell to watch the castle. He was gone into Scotland. Rainsborough was ordered to march against it with an overpowering force. “Sir Marmaduke Langdale was then a prisoner at Nottingham. It was feared that military execution would be done upon him, as had been the case with Lisle and Lucas at Colchester. The success which had attended a party of the garrison in getting possession of the person of Sir Arthur Ingram, whom they had surprised at Hatfield, and carried prisoner to the castle, emboldened them to attempt to get possession of Rainsborough, that he might be exchanged for Langdale. - “Captain William Paulden, one of three brothers, natives of Wakefield, who were in the castle, is said to have been the person by whom the plan was devised. To him the execution of it was committed. He chose twenty-two men in whom he could most confide, among whom was his brother, Captain Thomas Paulden, who was still alive in the reign of Queen Anne, when he published a full account of the whole affair. The party left Pontefract at midnight. They passed the posts of the besieging army unobserved. Early in the morning of the 28th of October, not at the end of August, as Clarendon has stated, they arrived at Mexborough. One of the party was immediately despatched to Doncaster, to ascertain if any informa- VOL. III. 3 A C H A P. | V | 1. Civil war. Rainsbo- rough killed. 182 - HISTORY OF BOOK WI. tion had been received that they had left the castle, and to collect any other useful intelligence. That day they spent at Mexborough, and about Coningsborough, but principally at the little obscure hamlet of Buterbusk, as I learn from a manuscript note, made a century ago, by an old inhabitant of Doncaster, in his copy of Clarendon. There their companion joined them in the evening. He brought information that all was quiet in the town, and that early in the morning, if they proceeded to Doncaster, they would meet a friend walking on the road, with a book in his hand, if every thing remained as it was. “Such a person appeared. It was Sunday morning. Captain Paulden divided his two-and-twenty men into four parties. Six were to secure the main guard; six the guard upon the bridge ; four were to go to the general’s quarters, while he himself, with the remaining six, when he had seen the four enter the general's lodgings, was to beat the streets, and keep the enemy from assembling. “They were successful with the guards. The four that went to Rainsborough's quarters pretended that they brought letters from Cromwell, with news of a victory over the Scots. They were conducted to his chamber by the general’s lieutenant. He rose from bed to receive them. As he was opening the packet which they put into his hands, they told him he was their prisoner, assuring him at the same time of personal safety; they disarmed the lieutenant, and brought both of them down stairs to where a horse was standing, ready to convey Rainsborough to Pontefract. He had set his foot in the stirrup, when, recovering from his surprise, and perceiving that there were only four persons who made the attack, while his own lieutenant and the centinels were standing by, he cried out ‘arms!’ ‘arms l’ Paulden mentions a circumstance creditable to the presence of mind of one of Assº- the party. As the object was to take, not to kill, Rainsborough, he dropped his sword and pistol, and endeavoured to force the general on horseback. This pistol the lieutenant took up, and was in the act of discharging it, when one of the party run him through the body. It now became a fight. Rainsborough was wounded in the neck, and afterwards received a severe wound in the body, when he fell down dead. - “This is Paulden's account, which differs in several particulars from that given by Clarendon. A house opposite the butcher's shambles, lately belonging to Mr. Wrightson, is pointed out by tradition as the scene of this transaction. “The whole party returned over the bridge, and by the direct road, to Pontefract. They arrived in safety. But it was impossible to hold out the castle much longer, Among the six who were exempted from the pardon offered to the garrison on a surrender, were Blackburn, and Austwick, a Pontefract man, who were among those who went to the general’s quarters. It is said to have been Austwick who inflicted the mortal wound. Blackburn escaped, but was afterwards taken and executed THE COUNTY OF YORK. 183 with Colonel Morris, at York. Austwick and two others hid themselves in a secret recess of the castle, from whence they issued in the night after the surrender, and lived to witness the restoration. Captain William Paulden died of a fever soon after the expedition.” ^ ſ. . In 1651, it was ordered by the corporation, that every person should grind his corn at the public mills, on pain of disfranchisement; and that licenses to brew should be granted to none but such as “were wont to grind their corn at the mills.” + . A new charter was granted to the corporation in 1664. It made no material alteration in the constitution of the borough, which is declared to be a body corporate and politic, with power to plead and be impleaded, use a common seal, &c. In 1712, the old seal of the corporation (represented in Miller's History of Don- caster), the device on which is a cross flory between four fleur-de-lis, was changed to one having the sejant lion supporting a banner charged with a castle situate on a river, with the letters D o N. - - From the commencement of the reign of George II. may be dated the great improvements which have taken place in Doncaster, till they have rendered it one of the most convenient and beautiful towns in the empire. The Don, which had always been navigable for small vessels, was adapted for the passage of those of a larger size, and a more ready communication with the upland country was opened by it. In 1731 the sign-posts, which had hung across the streets to the peril of passengers, and which obstructed the free current of air, were taken down; and in the same year there was a general paving of the town. In 1740 a more commodious bridge was erected over the Cheldwald than the old Friars Bridge : and in 1744 the first stone was laid of the present mansion house, which was built after a design of Payne's. His estimate was £4,523. 4s. 6d. In 1764 the public lighting of the town begun; and in 1767 the old gaol in Sepulchre gate was taken down, and a new one erected. In 1774 a new theatre was built at the expense of the corporation. In 1779 and 1780 the corporation expended considerable sums in new paving and widening the streets. In 1782 the Mill bridge was re- built; and in 1800 another story was added to the mansion house. * The profit of the mills being assigned for the special expenses of the mayoralty, will remind the reader of a verse in an old song, published by Ritson: *}. - “The Doncaster mayor, he sits in his chair, His mills they merrily go; His nose doth shine with drinking of wine. And the gout is in his great toe.” * Wide Append. Miller's Doncaster. C H A P. VII. Public mills. New charter. Improve- melltS. 184 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. The lighting of the town was effected under an act of parliament obtained for that purpose; and by the same act a court of requests, for the more expeditious recovery of small debts, was established. - In 1803 a regiment of volunteers was raised at Doncaster, on the apprehension entertained of an invasion; and in 1813 a society was founded for the encourage- ment of agriculture.* - * In this town, or in its immediate neighbourhood, was born the celebrated naval commander, Sir Martin Frobisher, who distinguished himself by attempts to discover a north-west passage to India and China. In 1585, he served under admiral Drake in the West-Indies; and in 1588, he had a share in the glorious defeat of the Spanish Armada. He was killed in assaulting a fort near Brest, in 1594. gy gº ." The benefice of Doncaster is a vicarage in the gift of the Archbishop of York. It is valued in the Liber regis at £32.19s. 2d. The parish church (dedicated to St. George) is a beautiful specimen of the style of church building which prevailed in England about the reign of Edward the Doncaster church. * Hunter’s South Yorkshire, vol. i. p. 28. : + Among the vicars of this church, the Rev. George Hay Drummond deserves particular notice, not only on account of the valuable services which, during his short incumbency, he rendered to the inhabitants of TYoncaster, but on account also of the advantage which the topography of Yorkshire has derived from his labours. He was third son of Dr. Robert Drummond. archbishop of York, and brother of Robert, earl of Kinnoul, was born at Brodsworth, educated at Westminster, became a student of Christ Church, Oxford, and in 1785, at the age of twenty-four, was presented by archbishop Markham to the vicarage of Doncaster, and in the same year was made prebendary of Ulleskelf, in the cathedral church of York. “Mr. Drummond brought from the academic bowers,” says Mr. Hunter, “a classical and correct. taste, and a cultivated, an affectionate, and an elegant mind. He entered with great zeal into the discharge of his duties as the minister of this populous parish. In his attentions to the poor he was most assiduous, and he was ever ready to administer as well to their temporal as their spiritual wants. He was the means of introducing Sunday schools into Doncaster, while still they were a novel institution. - - “An opportunity of exchanging with Mr. Moore, at that time rector of Brodsworth, was not to be declined ; for he retained a §rong affection for the place of his birth, and where the name of Drummond had long been respected and loved. There, upon a more contracted scale, but with equal assiduity, he pursued his former plans for the instruction and benefit of his people; and here he had an opportunity afforded of indulging the peculiar turn of his mind for rural embellishment. “Here, however, the gay morning of his life began to be overcast. The great estates of the Kinnoul family at Brodsworth and in the neighbourhood were sold by the elder branch. In 1795 he lost three children in the space of six weeks; but a severer calamity awaited him. He lost his beloved wife, a daughter of Sir Samuel Marshall, at the age of thirty-one. He left Brodsworth ; became a wanderer? and in 1807 was lost in the wreck of a brig off Biddeford in Devonshire; his portfolio, containing three hundred and sixty beautiful sketches of places which he had visited, being washed on shore. “Mr. Drummond had, beside the preferment above mentioned, the rectories of Tankersley and Raw- marsh, and the vicarage of Braithwell, all in this deanery.”—South Yorkshire, vol. i. p. 36. , º º THE county of York. 185 Third, when the narrow loop-hole windows of our older churches had given way to others wide and lofty, but before that extreme richness of detail in the ornamental parts was introduced which prevailed in the reigns of the later Henries. One small part appears to be a portion of an older edifice. On each side of the chancel is a lancet-window, looking into what are now the north and south choirs, remains of a series of windows of so decidedly distinct a character from the rest of the edifice, that the walls in which they appear cannot but be regarded as anterior to the other parts of the church. Leland says, “There is likelihod that when this C H A P. - VII. chirch was erected, much of the ruines of the castelle was taken for the foundation and filling up of the waullis of it.” . * * - - This church is one of those in which the sacred symbol of the Christian faith was to appear through the labours of the architect. The north and south aisles, and the chapels in the angles formed by the head of the cross and the transverse beam, a little obscure the design. But the ends of the transverse beam still project beyond the line of the aisles; and the long line of the nave, with nine clerestory windows peering above the aisles, cannot but suggest to every attentive observer to what device the genius of the original architect was bound to conform. - The design of the porch is elegant. At the point of the arch is the figure of an angel supporting a shield, which is charged with a plain cross. On each side is a richly-ornamented niche. Above the window in the pediment is a representation of the Trinity, with kneeling figures, each having a scroll proceeding from the mouth. g -, - - - - - - The tower, which is lofty, and rich with crocketed buttresses and pinnacles, rises at the intersection of the nave, chancel, and cross aisles. It appears to be of a somewhat later age than the rest of the fabric. Perhaps the liberality of the times, and even of so wealthy an abbey as the mitred St. Mary of York, had spent itself in the erection of the more useful and necessary parts of a church, on a scale and with an expense which, in these times, would confound the most opulent of our parishes, even with the prospect of a parliamentary grant. The more elabo- rate ornaments by which that part of the edifice is distinguished bespeak the age of Henry VI.; and a memorial in the belfry of Archbishop Kemp guides us at once to the era, and also to the promoter of the good work. This prelate presided over the see of York from 1425 to 1453. Had it been the church, and not merely the tower, which was erected in his time, the arms of the archbishop would have had a mºre conspicuous station. The shield of Scrope, in the same belfry, quartering, not Nevil, but Tibetot, though the saltier wants the engrailing, is of the same age; for the heiress of Tibetot, who brought the neighbouring manor of Bentley to her husband, Stephen Scrope, brother to Archbishop Scrope, was born in the latter end of the reign of Edward III., and consequently her son and heir, by whom vol. III. g 3 B & Tower. l86 s His Tory of J BOOK 'VI. * Belfry. Tombs. reign of King Henry VI. - - , - . . . . But the singular and well-preserved ornaments of the belfry demand a more particular notice. The principal is an angel in the act of benediction, and holding a mitre in his left hand. On the shield before him, supported by two smaller winged figures, are the arms of the see of York, impaling those of Kempe. On the north of the belfry are two shields, appearing to contain rebuses on the names of two benefactors, of which one is probably Burton: on the south wall are the arms of Redman and Burton; and, on the east, Scrope quartering Tibetot, and paly of six pieces. The devices on the shields which are on the west wall are the most remarkable. In one of them is a piece of fret-work, or what the heralds afterwards called three chevrons braced in base, out of which rises the Saxon wheel-cross, the head of which is incurvated, so as to suggest the idea of a pastoral staff. The words in the upper part of the shield are probably the name of the benefactor commemorated; but though the letters are perfectly fair, they have yet found no interpreter. The other shield on this side has a plain cross, which was would be borne Scrope and Tibetot quarterly, would be in the prime of life in the the symbol of St. Mary’s abbey, with the letter P. Mr. Drummond suggests that this is a memorial of Prior Pegge, without informing us of what establishment he was the superior. - - - . . . . The roof of the nave is divided into square compartments, in each of which was painted some device in the reign of Queen Anne, which the better taste of later times has not yet obliterated. The font, a large octagonal basin, has the date of MLXI, ; but this is incorrect, as it cannot be older than the fifteenth century. x The organ was bought in 1740 by the voluntary contributions of the parishioners. It cost 500 guineas. - - All the painted glass, with which many of the windows were formerly decorated, has been removed; but there has lately been erected a magnificent east window, containing figures of the apostles and prophets, the gift of T. J. L. Baker, Esq. of Longford house, near Gloucester, executor of the late Miss Sharpe, a lineal descendant from Dr. Sharpe, archbishop of York.” - - The ends of the transepts were peculiarly well adapted to the purpose of the private offices of religion. The founder's tomb, in the south transept, indicates that there, as well as in the north transept, was another of the chantries, of which it is known that there were four or five in the parish church of Doncaster. Probably here was the chantry of St. Nicholas, founded by Thomas de Fledburg, chaplain, who, on the feast of St. George, which must have been the feast of the dedication of the church, 1323, gave a messuage, twelve acres of land, and thirty shillings * Wainwright's Strafforth and Tickhill, p. 81. It was executed by Mr. Miller, of London, and placed in its present situation in 1822. . g . THE COUNTY OF YORK. 187 annual rent in the fields of Doncaster, for the support of a chaplain to celebrate daily at the altar of St. Nicholas in the church of Doncaster, for the souls of himself, Roger his father, and Margaret his mother, Peter de Fledburg and all faithful departed. This was done with consent of the rector, and confirmed by Archbishop Melton, 15 kal. Feb. 1329. The value of this chantry in King Henry's valor is £4. 0s. 1d. " ; --- Another founder's tomb in the north chancel may guide us to the site of another chantry; that of our Lady, concerning which nothing appears to be known, but that it was endowed with lands at Doncaster and Bentley, which were valued at the time of King Henry's survey at £4. 14s, clear annual value. - The chantry of St. John the Evangelist was founded by Robert Strey, priest, and endowed with lands in Doncaster, Hexthorpe, and Balby, estimated in King 'Henry's valor at £4. 18s. This must have been situate in the south chancel, where C. H. A. P. VII, is still the monument of one of the family of Strey. This monument consisted . originally of an altar tomb, the sides of which were ornamented with several quatrefoils, and it was covered with a slab of black marble, on which were several figures, in brass. This monument was long ago despoiled of its brasses; and, to the discredit of the parties concerned, in the late repairs of the church the canopy was destroyed and the altar tomb removed to a new site. - St. Catherine's chantry was founded by John Harrington and Isabel his wife, about the latter end of the reign of King Henry VI. It was endowed by them with lands in Doncaster, Bentley, and Wheatley, which were estimated in King Henry's valor at £7.11s. yearly value. The site of this chantry was in the north transept, which was fitted up as a private chapel. When in its undespoiled state, this little chapel must have been singularly beautiful. In the window were the portraitures and arms of several members of the families of Harrington and Sewer; and on an altar tomb were the arms and effigies in brass of Harrington and his wife. Not a vestige of the tomb remains. • * - - The inscription on one of the older monuments in this church appears to have been formed on the mode of those half jocose half serious epitaphs which are frequently to be found in ancient buildings. * * * “Howe, howe, who is heare I, Robyn of Doncaster, And Margaret my feare.* That I spent, that I had : - 4 * ~ That I gave, that I have: . ." That I left, that I lost. - cº Quod Robertus Byrkes, who in this worlde dyd reygne - - –- Threskore years and seaven, and yet lyved not one. - . . . . A.D. 1579.” * Feare is equivalent to Spouse. It is of common occurrence in Spenser and Chaucer. 188 - HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Christ church. * This strange personage was several times mayor of this ancient borough. Thé tomb is an altar of freestone, near the north-east supporter of the tower. The in- scription is well cut, and in a deep and bold character, and will probably remain when many much more worthy to be preserved have perished. The part most tolerable, because there is something of a moral conveyed in it, is supposed to be a copy of an epitaph on one of the old Courtneys, earls of Devonshire. There are several other curious monuments in this church.* The parish register has been exceedingly well preserved from its commencement in 1557. - . - . - A new church has been founded, and endowed by a benevolent individual of the name of Jarrett, whose ancestors had for a number of years been connected with the town of Doncaster. John Jarrett, Esq. the founder of Christ church, was in early life a manufacturer at Bradford; subsequently, during the war, he became a partner in the extensive iron works carried on at Low Moor near Bradford, under the firm of Jarrett, Danson, and Hardy, where he acquired a very large fortune. Retiring from business some years ago, he returned to his native town to enjoy the fruits of his honest industry, and, during a period of several years, he by acts of kindness and benevolence acquired the respect and esteem of his fellow- townsmen. The first stone of the church was laid on the 9th of October, 1827; and the founder died on the 15th of January, 1828, at the age of eighty-three. The sums he gave were £10,000 for the building, and £3000 for the endowment. The site of the church, at the point where the Thorne road branches from the great North road, is particularly fine and open, occupying about two and a half acres of ground, surrounded by wide and spacious public roads. The style of architecture adopted is that which prevailed in the fourteenth century. The stone used is from the celebrated quarries of Roche abbey, and the architects are Messrs. Woodhead and Hurst. e . . . The plan of the church comprises a tower, nave, two side-aisles, and a chancel; the latter, together with two vestries, forms a semi-octagonal projection, which gives the east end a multangular and unusual appearance. The tower is highly enriched, and is finished with a small but elegant spire of an octagonal form. There are six windows to each aisle, and a seventh at the north-east and south-east vestries. Each of these is divided horizontally by two cross-mullions, and thereby formed into twelve lights; the centre three are square quartrefoils; and the tracery at the head forms three other quartrefoils. The east window is of six principal lights, and the upper part spread out in tracery. - The principal entrance is through a spacious octangular porch, the whole size of the tower, which is groined in imitation of stone. The entrance to the * Wide Hunter's South Yorkshire, vol. i.e., - - • 31, ºfºrmer sº Enºr noscasº - º *alsº witHiiºn wºrks tº tº cºnsciº THE county of YORK. 189 '-- galleries and side aisles is by the doors on the north and south sides of the church. - - The ceiling above the nave is divided into square compartments by bold ornamented beams, with bosses at the intersection, which are painted in imitation of oak. The side aisles are groined in imitation of stone, having bosses at the intersection of the ribs, with corbels for the ribs to rise from. The pulpit, reading, and clerks’ desks, accord in style with the building, and are placed in the centre of the middle aisle, which is ten feet wide; a handsome stone font is placed in front of the west entrance. — The size of the church from the tower to the chancel, in the interior, is ninety- four feet long, and fifty-two wide, with galleries at the south and north sides and west end. The accommodation is for one thousand persons, of which three hundred seats are free and unappropriated. - - . * * The building was consecrated by his grace the archbishop of York, on the 10th of September, 1829; and the church opened for Divine service on the 1st of November following. . . . 4 Among the charitable foundations in this town, the following deserve notice:– C. H. A. P. . VII, Charities. St. Thomas's hospital was erected and endowed by Thomas Ellis, alderman, whose tomb is in the church. The lands settled upon it were parts of his great purchase of chantry lands. in and about Doncaster. The rental in his time was £10. per annum; but when Dr. Miller wrote it was supposed to be £256. It is intended for the maintenance of six poor and decayed housekeepers. The great improvement of the rents has enabled the trustees to give a pension to twelve poor persons who do not reside, but are admitted as vacancies occur. Edward Fenwick, of London, merchant tailor, by his will, dated May 1, 1657, gave £100 to be disposed of by the mayor and corporation, for the use of the poor of Doncaster. This sum, with other monies belonging to the poor then in the hands of the corporation, it was agreed should be laid out in making a decoy in Pottery Carr, the profits of which were to be appropriated to the use of the poor. Thomas Martin, by will, dated January 17, 1688, gave to the mayor, aldermen, and capital burgesses of Doncaster, and their successors £20, per annum, to be issuing out of his lands at Stainforth and Tudworth; to put out three, four, or five boys to trades (being born and living in Doncaster), whose parents are not able to do so for them. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mrs. Jane Ellerker, in 1736, left considerable property to the vicar and mayor of Doncaster for the time being, the proceeds to be applied to the benefit of poor housekeepers residing in Doncaster. . Quintin Kay, of Ludgate hill, upholsterer, gave, by will, proved the 20th August, 1807, to the mayor and corporation of Doncaster, £2000, three per vol. III. 3 c .90 HISTORY OF . JBOOK WI. Dispen- Sary. Lying-in Charity, cent. Bank Annuities, and £6000, four per cent. Bank Annuities, producing £300 a-year, in trust, to apply the dividends to the following purposes:—two guineas to the vicar or curate of Doncaster, for a sermon to be preached on the first Sunday in September, on the tendency of the Christian religion to lead its professors to industry and diligence in business; five pounds to be distributed in bread on that day to the poor of Doncaster; sixty pounds, to place out, every year, six poor children, of either sex, of honest and industrious parents, residing in the township of Don- caster, at the age of fourteen, as apprentices for seven years in some useful mechanical business: three guineas annually to the Dispensary; ten pounds to the town clerk, for his trouble in making payments and keeping the accompts. The residue of the dividends to be paid to so many poor reduced persons, of either sex, resident in the town of Doncaster, fifty years old and upwards, as the said residue will allow, to receive one guinea each per month. In case of wilful misapplication of the funds by the corporation, the whole is to go to the governors of Christ's Hospital in London, for the general purposes thereof for ever. The will was dated 10th March, 1804, and this liberal and judi- cious benefactor died July 16, 1807.* s In May, 1821, John Jarratt, Esq. of Doncaster, the founder of Christchurch, sunk £2,200 with the corporation, for which they gave an annuity bond to pay £110 per annum amongst six reduced.housekeepers of the town. - i The Dispensary was founded in 1792, and is supported principally by the voluntary contributions of the inhabitants, aided by 100 guineas annually voted out of the funds of the corporation. . wº There is also a Lying-in Charity, a Sick Charity, a Ladies' Clothing Society; besides several of a more private description. . . . . . . . . . The education of the poor has been also greatly encouraged at Doncaster. In 1719 the corporation voted £10, which was to be continued yearly, towards setting up and maintaining a charity school. Sunday schools were introduced into Doncaster at their first institution. But all attempts at the education of the children of the poor sink into insignificance before what is witnessed in the national school, lately founded, where 212 boys and 180 girls are taught reading, writing, and accompts. The girls are also instructed in needle-work. . . . . . . . . * Hunter. Af - . . . . + A little tract on the Public Charities of Doncaster, 1826, contains a list of seven distinct societies which are formed here for the dissemination of religious knowledge at home and abroad, most of them under the patronage of persons distinguished at once by rank and by benevolence. Among them is a branch association from the Society for promoting Christian Knowledge, for the deanery of Don- caster; and another from the Society for the propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts. An Auxiliary Bible Society was established at Doncaster in 1812, of which Earl Fitzwilliam is the president. . . . º - . . . . THE county of York. 191 There were several extensive monastic foundations in this town, previous to the Reformation. - *.. - - - - The Carmelites, or White Friars, were introduced into Doncaster in the reign of King Edward III. The house was founded by John Nightbroder, of Eyam, in 1350. It stood in Hall-gate. When De la Pryme made the survey of Doncaster, which C H A P. -- VII. Monas- teries. White Friars. is now among his manuscripts in the British museum, some portions of the building remained. . . - - - It was usual for the distinguished visitors of Doncaster to be entertained at this house. After the dissolution it was the residence of the family of Swyft, who had for a short time the title of Lord Carlingford. When they became extinct, it was divided and inhabited by various proprietors. The principal portion was the dwelling of — Broadhead, Esq., whose stables stood on the site of the chapel, and the balusters of whose house were part of the furniture of the friary.* In the church of this friary were interred Sir Robert Welles and his lady; Roger de Bankewell, rector of Bromfield, who died in 1366. William and Ellen Leicester, and Elizabeth Amias, of High Melton, all about 1450, directed by their will, that they should be interred in the church of this house; and lastly, in the time of Leland, there was “a goodly tumbe of white marble,” of Margaret Cobham, countess of Westmorland, with her effigies, which were removed at the dissolution to the parish church. - " . Cooke, the last prior of this house, surrendered it in 1538. His name is one of those which were lately discovered traced upon a wall in the interior of the Tower of London, and he was executed at Tyburn on 4th of August, 1540. The Franciscans, Friars Minors, or Grey Friars, had a house in this town. Dodsworth mentions that in 1307 Sir John Grey did homage to the archbishop of York for lands held of him in the church of the Friars Minors of Doncaster. In 1315 Peter de Mauley had an ad quod damnum that he might set apart for the use of the Friars Minors a piece of land at Doncaster containing eighteen perches. This appears like an original foundation. - Many persons of eminence were interred here; as one of the Thomas lords Furnival of Sheffield, and a Peter de Mauley, whose will is dated in 1381. John Maleverer, Esq. by his will dated 1451, directs that his body shall be interred in the church of St. Francis of the Friars Minors at Doncaster, and that Richard Rawlyn, chaplain, shall celebrate for three years for his soul, during which time he shall have his gilt cup, which shall afterwards revert to Alvery, his son, at Cushworth. Thomas Kirkham, a doctor of divinity of Oxford, was guardian in 1526. He was very zealous in his opposition to the king's divorce. He surrendered the house ** Hunter, vol. i. p. 17. Grey Friars. 192 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Chapel. Hospital. St. Mary Magda- len’s chapel. at the same time the Carmelites were dissolved. There were then six brethren and four novices. The house was very poor: the clear value being £3. 3s. 4d., and the plate only six ounces. There were about the building forty-three fother of lead and four bells, Kirkham was executed in 1547, the first year of Edward VI. Perhaps he was concerned in the insurrection of the Semer men of that year. In the 36th of Hen. VIII. 1544, the site of the house was granted to William Gifford and Michael Wildbore. Leland points out the situations very exactly, “at the north end of the bridge commonly called the Frere's bridge.” Burton says that a house of Dominicans or Black Friars, was founded at Don- caster in the reign of Edward II. But Mr. Hunter is doubtful whether such a house ever existed. Leland, who mentions the Franciscans and the Carmelites, has no notice of it. We have no account of the surrender of it; none of the grant of its site; and Tanner says he was unable to find any thing respecting any such house. º - - - . Leland mentions a chapel on the bridge at Doncaster: “there is a great bridge of five arches of stone at the north end of the isle; at the south end of the which bridg is a great tower'd gate of stone, at the west side whereof is a fair chapelle of our Lady, and thereof it is called St. Mary’s gate.” - t The chapel was standing at the commencement of the last century. De la Pryme says that there were twelve niches, in which had stood the figures of the twelve apostles, which were pulled down in Cromwell’s time: and he further says that, on the left hand of the way, just over the bridge, was a famous old cross, of curious and excellent workmanship, with niches for three images. The Hospital of St. James is mentioned in the patent rolls of 12 Henry III. There was a chapel annexed, which is called the “free chapel of St. James” in the valor of the 26th of Hen. VIII. Humphrey Gascoigne was then the chap- lain, and its endowment was only 53s. 4d. per annum, including the manse and garden. Roger Clarkson, who was the incumbent in the first year of Edward VI. when it was suppressed, received a pension of £3. : . . De la Pryme speaks of “the ruins of a long and once stately chapel, dedicated to St. James, all now in rubbish, on the side of the road from Sepulchre gate to Balby.” - Of the hospital of St. Nicholas little can be discovered but the fact of its existence. It is mentioned in some pleadings in the fifteenth of Hen. III. The chapel of St. Mary Magdalene stood in the market-place, and its remains show that the building was very extensive. Human bones are frequently discovered * in digging near it, which prove that it possessed the right of sepulture. Leland speaks of it as having been a parish church, though “now it serveth but for a chapelle of ease.” And some have thought that this was indeed the ancient THE COUNTY OF YORK. 193 parish church of Doncaster, the genuine successor to that founded by Paulinus. Long before the erection of the present church of St. George it was, however, spoken of but as a capella; for in the reign of Henry II, when Jordan de Capre- olocuria, or Chevercourt, confirmed certain grants to the monks of St. John of Pontefract, it was done in “capellá Sanctae Maria Magdalende de Donecastriá.” This chapel, with the chapel-yard or croft adjoining, were included in a grant to Thomas Reve and George Cotton of London, who conveyed them, on the 20th of January, 1552, to Ralph Bosvile, Esq. On February 1, 1556, he conveyed them to John Symkinson, who, on the 6th December, 1557, granted them to the corporation. The building was falling into ruin, when, in 1575, the north and south aisles were taken down, and the nave and chancel were fitted up for the purposes of a court of justice and a grammar-school. To these purposes the building has ever since been appropriated. 3 * - At Doncaster, as early as the reign of Philip and Mary, Alderman Ellis devised estates for the foundation of a free grammar-school* for the virtuous education and bringing up of children in learning, and for the increase and maintenance of the wages and stipend of the said schoolmaster. And, about the same time, Alderman Thomas Symkinson gave towards the foundation of a school, if it go forward, four acres of meadow; that is to say, two acres in Bentley Ings, and one close lying at the Barnelaithes. These were portions of the chantry lands bought by Ellis and Symkinson. - - ; : - - In 1575 the corporation fitted up a portion of the old church of St. Mary Mag- dalene for the use of the school; and there it has continued ever since. VII. Grammar school, At one season in the year Doncaster is visited by nearly all the families of Races, rank in the north of England. About a mile from the town, on the road to London, is its famous race ground, on which is a stand erected by the corporation, which may well deserve to be styled magnificent, and which, when crowded with company, as it rarely fails to be at the annual meeting, presents a sight truly splendid. Of the origin of this meeting little that is satisfactory is known. Like many other things, it probably grew up from small beginnings, beginnings so small, as to pass unob- * “The grammar school has been under a succession of able masters; but probably at no period since the reformation has Doncaster had equal advantages for the education of its youth, and the cul- tivation of a literary spirit, as when it had its convent of learned Carmelites. Much of evil as well as good was done at the reformation. Milton was certainly too harsh when he passed his undiscriminating censure on these communities; • - * . . . . - * White, Black, and Grey, with all their trumpery.” But the training of youth in good learning is too important an object to be ever wholly neglected in any well-ordered state. Accordingly, when many seminaries of good learning were suppressed, others arose, some under royal patronage, and others by the private exertions of enlightened and benevolent individuals.”—Hunter. - * - - t - WOL. III. r 3 D 194 - HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Grand stand. Cross. served by their contemporaries. The earliest notice Mr. Hunter had seen of this meeting occurred under the date of 1703, when the corporation voted that the mayor should subscribe four guineas a year for seven years towards a plate to be run for on Doncaster course. At the expiration of the seven years the vote was extended to five guineas annually. On 27th July, 1716, the corporation voted £5.7s.6d, towards a plate to be run for on Doncaster Moor, to be called the town's plate, provided the neighbouring gentlemen will subscribe for a valuable plate to be run for on the same moor. - - - In 1777 the course was very much improved, and the grand stand erected. In 1776 the celebrated St. Leger stakes were founded, the first race being won by the marquis of Rockingham’s horse Sampson. The corporation have for many years given a plate annually of the value of £50, and subscribed forty guineas towards others. In 1803, his majesty's plate of one hundred guineas was removed from Burford to Doncaster, when another day was added to the three during which the races had been held. In 1825 the time of the races was prolonged to five days; and in the succeeding year a sumptuous building was erected in Doncaster for the amusement of persons resorting to the races. - The inhabitants of this town have the advantage of an increasing public library, in very commodious apartments, erected for the purpose in 1821. To this, which was founded on the plan of a private subscription, has recently been added a valuable collection of old books, which had been kept for many years in the room over the porch of the church. These formed the library of what was called the Doncaster Society, an association at first of clergymen only, formed in 1714 for mutual improvement. . . One of the most interesting antiquities in this town, is the cross of Ote de Tilli. It is a cylindrical column, eighteen feet in height, with four half cylinders of smaller diameter attached to it. Each column was originally surmounted by a cross pattée raised on a slender shaft. The puritanical zeal of some soldiers of the earl of Manchester in the civil wars, urged them to pull down the crosses; and the whole pillar might soon have perished, had not William Patterson, who was mayor in 1678, interested himself in its preservation. But though he had sufficient anti- quarian zeal to endeavour to save it from destruction, he had not taste enough to wish to restore it to its original form. Instead of its crosses he added a dial and balls. . A - The original portion of this cross was at the beginning of Hall gate; but when that part of the town was improved, in 1793, it was removed to its present site, or rather a facsimile of it, with a vane instead of the crosses, was erected. It stands on a little eminence at the entrance to the town from the south, which was called Hob Cross hill long before the present cross stood upon it. Around - º º THE COUNTY OF YORK. 195 the cross, at about the height of seven feet, is an inscription in the Langobardic character. ſº - + Icest EST LA CRVICE OTE D TILLI* A K1 ALME DEY FACE MERCI.—AMEN. The inscription is in rhyme, like that on the cross at Braithwell, of the same age. Exclusive of the “cross of Ote de Tilli,” there were likewise two others. One of them was reared near St. James's close, called St. James's cross, and the other was north of the Mill bridge. . . . . . . . The mansion-house, or principal residence of the chief magistrate, is a handsome edifice, erected on the site of an old building, formerly appendant to the Carmelite friary, in 1744. The lower story is rusticated, and the second or principal division has four couples of composite columns, supporting an entablature; the upper story has the corporate arms, and several urns disposed at regular intervals. The principal apartment is adorned with a full-length portrait of George III. in his coronation robes, and the celebrated marquis of Rockingham. - . - Near this building is the new betting-room, a small but commodious and well- arranged edifice. The exterior has a meat appearance, having two Ionic columns supporting an entablature. - • Within the township of Doncaster, and closely bordering on the borough, was for many generations the seat of one part of the great Yorkshire family of Copley, who acquired this and other estates from the Harringtons and Sewers. It is now the residence of T. Copley, Esq. - • Many other families of high respectability in this county have had residences in this neighbourhood. - - - In the level and low lands near Doncaster are several large morasses, of which that called Pottery Carr is one. It lies to the south of Doncaster, extending towards the villages of Loversall and Rossington. The extent is about four thousand acres. Near the centre was a little firm ground, on which, in the days of De la Pryme, the ruins of a chapel, said to be dedicated to St. John, existed. He calls it a stately chapel. . * * - The ruins are probably the basis of the tradition or opinion which prevails, that a city lies buried in the Carr. Its name is said to have been Pawtry; and its church is said, to have been dedicated to St. Oswald. A large key was found near the decoy some years ago, which the antiquaries of the time immediately determined to be tha key of the church door. - C H A P. VI.i. Mansion house. Betting f00III. Pottery Carr. Chapel. * Ote, or otho de Tilli, is a name which often presents itself in the records. of the affairs of this neighbourhood. He lived in the reigns of Stephen and Henry II., and was the semeschal or steward of Coningsborough, under Hameline, earl of Warren.’ - - - * * 196 -- HISTORY OF BOOK WI. favourite haunts. - * Carr house. Long Sandal, with Wheatley. Balby, with Hexthorpe Lang- thwaite, with Tilts. Loversall. What the ruins were which De la Pryme heard of scarcely admits of a question. Such unhealthy and almost inaccessible places were often selected by religious devotees for the scene of their austerities. Such was Lindholme, in the centre of a similar expanse of boggy and fenny ground near Hatfield; and such the retire- ment of St. Guthlac in Lincolnshire. Beside, these places were supposed to be more peculiarly in the power of evil spirits, who were thus encountered in their Various attempts have been made, and at last not unsuccessfully, to render this extensive tract of ground profitable. In 1621, the corporation of Doncaster, in whose fee it was included, resolved that a part of it should be improved, and granted out to the neighbouring freeholders at 3s. 4d. per acre, for one hundred years, to be paid for the use of the poor of Doncaster. In 1764, an act of parliament was obtained for draining and allotting the whole Carr. In 1771, the allotment was settled, and the commissioners’ award finally executed. - • . Near the northern edge of the Carr, and about a mile from Doncaster, is an ancient mansion, called Carr house, which was for several generations the residence of the much-respected family of Childers. Carr house is said by Miller to be in the parish of Warmsworth. It is now the residence of George Cooke, Esq. The famous horse, called Bay Childers, or the Flying Childers, was bred here by Leonard Childers, Esq. who died in 1748. He was sold to the duke of Devonshire, and has always been spoken of as the fleetest racer ever known in England. - . º The township of Long Sandal, with Wheatley, has a population of 160 persons. Wheatley hall is the seat of Sir G. B. Cooke, Bart. It is a large and handsome mansion, with extensive pleasure grounds. Bryan Cooke, Esq. of Sandal, in this county, ancestor of the present baronet, had a son Bryan of the same place, who, for his loyalty to Charles I., was fined, by the sequestrators, £1460. His son, George Cooke, Esq. was advanced to the dignity of a baronet, May 10, 1661, which dignity has continued in the family by a lineal succession, to the present time. The township of Balby, with Healthorpe, lies to the south-west of Doncaster, on the right bank of the Don, towards Warmsworth and Coningsborough. In 1821 the population amounted to three hundred and ninety-two persons. In this village George Fox, the founder of the Society of Friends, with his followers, held their first meetings, and where they suffered persecutions of the most disgraceful kind. The township of Langthwaite, with Tilts, is in the north division of Strafforth and Tickhill wapentake. They are mostly agricultural districts, with twenty-one inhabitants. The parish of LoveRSALL is situate about three miles from Doncaster, on the THE COUNTY OF York. 197 south-west, and not far from the edge of Pottery Carr. The population amounted, in 1821, to one hunded and thirty-one persons. . . . " In 1816, the manor of Loversall, and 720 acres of land, were purchased of J. T. Dawson, Esq. by the trustees under the will of S. Buck, Esq. It has since been bought by G. Banks, Esq. r - - The benefice of this parish is a curacy, valued in the Liber regis at £10. 10s. It is in the patronage of the vicar of Doncaster. \ . The church” stands near the village, and was originally a small structure, with a south aisle; but, when the Wyrrals became possessed of this estate, (temp. Henry VIII) they built a large chapel on the south side of the chancel. Their arms, impaled by a fleur de lis, are on two sides of this chapel. With one shield are the words “JoHIS WIRRALL,” and with the other, “Johis WIRRALL, PATER Hugonis WIRRALL.” - In the interior of this chapel is an altar-tomb of large dimensions. The sides and ends are of black marble, ornamented with blank shields in quatrefoils. It is covered with Roche-Abbey stone. There is no inscription, but it is of the age of the Tudors, and evidently erected in memory of the Wyrral who was the founder of this chapel. This is the only monumental memorial of that family at Loversall. Within the chancel is the recumbent figure of a knight, without his armour, but having his sword and shield. On the shield are carved his arms, viz. on a quarter a cross patonce. It is probably the tomb of William de Middleton, the figure on the shield being the arms usually borne by the Middletons of Yorkshire. The south chancel has been used as the burying-place of the later owners of the Iſlaſ) Or. - . Here is a neat tablet, with a bust, to the memory of W. Dixon, Esq. F. R. S., who died April 3, 1783, aged eighty. * **- - In the church-yard is an altar-tomb, its sides rudely decorated with arches. On the top is a long narrow slab, on which is carved a cross flory. There is also the tomb of a child; the head, shoulders, hands, and feet are discovered, as if by the removal of a portion of the lid of a coffin. These can scarcely be referred to a later period than the fourteenth century. - - RossINGTON is a small parish, consisting of a single township, and a population of three hundred and eighty-three persons. r s The name is deduced by Mr. Drummond from the British Rhos, a rush: the town of the rushy meadow. The name is not found in Domesday-book; and the “ appearance of it with which I am acquainted,” says Mr. Hunter, “is in C H A P. VII. Manor, Church. * “This church was repaired in 1783 by Mr. H. Overton, who, in pulling down the porch, destroyed a curious piece of antiquity over the doorway, bearing an Arabic (query a Saxon) inscription, in English, Obey the Lord.”—Langdale's Topog. Dict. - WOL. III, - 3 E Rossing- ton. .* * 198 - HISTORY OF - sº-w BOOK WI. the personal name of Jeremiah de Rossington, who, with William and John his brothers, witnessed an undated charter of Idonea de Vipont to the men of Bawtry.” Rossington is a pleasant and open tract of land, lying rather high, in a country where there is little elevation; and was selected by the Mauleys, or rather their predecessors, from all their lands in this part of their domain, as a place for their own occasional residence. The name of The Park, by which about one thousand acres of this parish are called, sufficiently indicates a place set apart for the pleasure of the lord; and connected with it was a moated mansion- house, of which much of the ruins were remaining within the memory of man. The Mauleys had a grant of free warren here. - - - Rossington having been thus held in demesne, has formed a very valuable part of those possessions of the ancient lords of Doncaster which was transferred by the gift of Henry VII. to the corporation of Doncaster. The manor, with the advowson regardant, has continued ever since in the possession of that body. - - The benefice is a rectory,” valued in the King's books at £11.1s, 5%d. R. Bowyer, Esq. is patron. - - - The church of Rossington is dedicated to St. Michael, and is the original fabric as erected by the Fossards, little altered except by the addition of a tower. It has no aisles, and there is a circular arch between the nave and chancel, with chevron and other mouldings. The porch door has a similar arch, with mouldings of the nail-head and the bird's-head. - - Near the chancel door was formerly a grave-stone, protected by iron rails, covering the remains of Charles Bosvile, whose interment is recorded, in the parish register, as having taken place on Sunday, the 30th of January, 1708-9. This person is still remembered in the traditions of the village, as having established a spe- cies of sovereignty among that singular people, the gipsies, who, before the enclo- sures, used to frequent the moors about Rossington. His word amongst them was law; and his authority so great, that he perfectly restrained the pilfering propensities for which the tribe is censured, and gained the entire good will for himself and his people of the farmers and the people around. He was a gentleman, with an estate of about £200 a year, and is described by De la Pryme, of Hatfield, as “a mad spark, mighty fine and brisk, and keeps company with a great many gentlemen, knights, and esquires, yet runs about the country.” He was a similar character to Bampfield Moore Carew, who, a little later, lived the same kind of wandering life. No member of this wandering race, for many years, passed near Church. * “In 1756 the next presentation to the rectory was sold by the corporation for 4:760, which was expended in the improvements which were then making in the High-street. The living was then esteemed of much greater value than before the reformation, when scarcely any rector died in possession of it.”—Hunter. - …” THE COUNTY OF YORK. 199 Rossington without going to pay respect to the grave of him whom they called their C H A P. king.” * - - VII. The parsonage house is very handsome ; it was erected a few years ago by the corporation of Doncaster. A free-school was founded here as early as 1652. In this parish is Shooter's-hill, the handsome seat of J. C. Hilton, Esq. The following township is part of the parish of Finningley, in Hatfield division of Bassetlaw hundred, Nottinghamshire. Blaxton has a population of about one hundred and seventeen persons. It con- Blaxton. tains nothing worthy of notice. . * * Hunter's South Yorkshire, vol. i. p. 68. 200 - ... • HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Osgold- Cl’OSS, *. CHAPTER VIII. SURVEY OF OSGOLDCROSS warnstake. The wapentake of Osgoldcross” is divided into the upper and lower divisions; the former contains the parishes of ACE WORTH, CASTLEFORD, OWSTON, BADSWORTH, DARRINGTON, Pontefract, B RAM WITH KIRK, FEATHERSTONE, PONTEFRACT PARK, BURGH wallis, FERRY FRYSTONE, SOUTH KIRKBY, j' CAMPSALL, - KIRK SMEETON, wRAGBY. The lower division contains the following parishes:— AD LING FLEET, SNAITH, WOMERSLEY. KELLINGTON, WHITGIFT, The celebrated town of Pontefract is situate in the liberty of the honour of Pontefract, and is little more than two miles south-west from Ferrybridge; + nine miles nearly east from Wakefield; and fifteen north-west from Doncaster. In 1821 the population of this town amounted to four thousand four hundred and forty-seven inhabitants, occupying nine hundred and twenty-seven houses. The situation is pleasant, as the town, crowning a beautiful eminence, is approached on every side by a considerable ascent. Three long streets, disposed in the form of the letter Y, constitute the principal part of the town. The houses are hand- some, and almost all of them built of brick; and thestreets are open, spacious, and clean. As there are no particular manufactures carried on here, the atmosphere Pontefract. * Osnald's cross, from a cross erected at Pontefract to that saint's memory and virtues, at a very early period; probably not long after his death. The present name was equally corrupted at the time of the general survey in the reign of William I., and when it was called Osgotcros. # “A new line of road, formed by public subscription, and extending from Leeds through this town to Barnsdale, where it communicates with the great north road, was opened in the year 1822. The entire expense amounted to £18,41 I. 17s.6d.”—Fox's Hist. of Pontefract. # The entire parish has eight thousand eight hundred and twenty-four inhabitants. - | | | | | | | | g º º º 5 ſ H º º º THE COUNTY OF YORK, * 201 is uncontaminated with the smoke of steam engines, and the air is perfectly pure. and salubrious.* r - A For persons unconnected with trade Pontefract is an eligible situation. Pontefract is, on several accounts, celebrated in English history. The origin of the town is unknown, and the etymology of its name has been a matter of dispute. The monkish legend of Thomas de Castleford, who derives the name of Ponsfractus, or Pontefract, from the miracle ascribed to St. William, archbishop of York, is but little deserving of notice. This story is in substance as follows:— William returning from Rome, where he had received the pall, was met by such crowds of people, who assembled to crave his blessing, that a wooden bridge over the Aire near this place broke down, and great numbers fell into the water. On this occasion, the holy prelate, deeply affected by the danger of so many persons, poured out his prayers to heaven with such fervour and success, that not one of them perished. By other historians, however, the scene of this miraculous transaction is transferred to York; and according to the positive assertion of Stubbs, it was the bridge over the Ouse that fell in, and thus endangered the lives of this multitude of persons, who came “maa'ima cum devotione,”—with very great devotion, to meet their prelate.f. Drake also observes, that a chapel was built on Ouse bridge, and dedicated to the saint, “ which stood till the Reformation; and, in all probability, was first erected in memory of this accident.”S From such a concurrence of evidence, those who possess a sufficient share of credulity to believe that such a miracle did take place, will plainly perceive that the city of York has the best claim to the honour of its operation. And the credit of the legend, so far as relates to Pontefract, is entirely destroyed by the charters granted by Robert de Lacy to the Priory of St. John, in which the town is called by that name fifty-three years before the miracle is pretended to have been performed. \. { The etymology of the present name of Pontefract, however, is evidently to be referred to the decay, or breaking down of some bridge. Camden says, that in the Saxon times the name of this town was Kirkby, which was changed by the Normans to Pontefract, because of a broken bridge that was there. || But as there is no river within two miles of the place, this bridge appears to have been built over the Wash, which lies about a quarter of a mile to the east of the castle. * Instances of longevity Blre very common in this part of Yorkshire. At this town, Mr. Frank died in 1782, aged one hundred and nine; Mary Kershaw, in 1788, aged one hundred and three : and Mrs. Manhood, in 1792, aged one hundred. - - - . f Camden, fol. 711, 712. - a - # Stubbs says this happened on the Sunday preceding the feast of the Ascension. A.D. 1154. Act. Pont. Ebor. Vita Sancti Gulielmi. * & Yº § Drake's Eboracum, fol. 418. - º | Camden, fol. 711, Gibson's Edit. WOL. III. - - 3 F C. H. A. P. VIII. . Etymo- logy. 202 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Market. Gardens. Park. By the alteration of the roads, the stream called the Wash is now confined to a narrow channel; but formerly, in a time of heavy rains, or on the sudden melting of snows, it overflowed its banks, and became impassable, especially before drains were made through the marsh. Leland says, “the ruines of such a bridg yet ys seene scant half a mile est owt of old Pontfract, but I cannot justely say that this bridge stoode ful on Watheling streete;” for the want of which the road was often impassable to travellers, till proper channels were made for the use of two mills, one called the upper mill, and the other the lower, or Bondgate mill. From the circumstance of several Roman roads meeting near this place, or in the neighbourhood, Leland and Drake were inclined to consider Pontefract as the Legiolium of Antoninus. But the far greater part of our most learned antiquaries are of opinion that the honour of this ancient station belonged to Castleford, a village about three miles to the north-west.* Mr. Boothroyd, however, supposes, with great probability, that Pontefract may have been a secondary and subordinate station, as some Roman coins have been found at this place; and in several old walls there still remain bricks, which, from their dimensions, texture, and colour, appear to be of Roman fabrication.f i - The market is held on Saturday, and is, well supplied with butchers’ meat, poultry, and fish. It is also a very considerable corn-market. Here are also several annual fairs, viz. on the first Saturday after February 13; the Saturdays before Palm Sunday, Low Sunday, and Trinity Sunday; the Saturday after September 12; and the first Saturday in December for horses, horned cattle, and sheep. Fortnight fairs are also held on the Saturdays after the fortnight fairs at York, - Pontefract is famed for its gardens and nurseries, which are very extensive, and have an excellent soil. Great quantities of vegetables are carried from this town to Leeds and Wakefield; and seedlings from the nurseries are sent to the most distant parts of the kingdom. This place is also noted for the cultivation of liquorice, for which the fine deep loamy soil is extremely well adapted; and the liquorice cakes of Pontefract are well known, not only throughout the British empire, but also in foreign countries. - * About a mile distant from the town, northwards, is the park, on an eligible part of which is built a grand stand, and the ridge above the course affords the finest prospect for an immense concourse of spectators. The races, which are annually held here in September, are generally attended by great numbers of the fashionable world. - - - - * This opinion is confirmed by the distances given in the fifth and sixth Iter. Antonini. + Boothroyd's History of Pontefract, p. 13, 14. THE COUNTY OF YORK. * 203 This town sends two members to parliament; it was first incorporated as a borough by Richard III., in the second year of his reign.” The elective franchise is vested in the inhabitant householders, of whom there are about 700. Henry VII. renewed this charter in the fourth year of his reign. It is expressed in the same terms as that of Richard, but without noticing or referring to it in any way. . n - In the above charter it is ordained, that the mayor shall be chosen by the votes of the burgesses; and the mode that obtained was to give these openly in the Mote hall. This mode of choosing the mayor became a source of strife and con- tention among the burgesses; and the quarrels and differences which arose from one election scarcely subsided before another took place, which in like manner gave birth to others. - * To terminate these differences, and restore peace and harmony to the town, the burgesses appear to have petitioned James I. to grant a new charter, to regulate the mode of choosing the mayor in future. Accordingly, in the fourth of this reign, a charter was granted, appointing that mode of choosing the mayor which has ever since obtained. The mode is this; each burgess writes on a scroll of paper, “On the fourteenth day of September, in the year of our Lord (mentioning the current year and the name of the person) is elected mayor of this town or borough.” The name of the burgess is not signed, but the scroll of each is put into a box, then taken out by the town-clerk, and the alderman whose name is written on the greater number of scrolls is declared duly elected: the scrolls are then burned, that the handwriting may not be scrutinized, lest it should be known for whom, or against whom any burgess voted. In the charter of Charles II, the same rights and privileges are conferred as in those before granted, one clause excepted. The town clerk and recorder had hitherto been chosen by the mayor; but by this charter the right of appointing these he reserves to himself and successors. The nomination is left to the mayor, but they are not allowed to enter into office without a warrant in that behalf, under the king's sign manual. t The corporation are proprietors of about fourteen acres of land within the borough, a house in the Shoe-market, and a corn-windmill, situate in the township of Tanshelf. &^ 4 The corporation are also entitled to certain rents and tolls.'t It appears to have been a burgh in the time of Edward the Confessor; but how long it had enjoyed this privilege is uncertain. At this period the manor is C H A P. VI I. Members of par- liament. * This charter is printed in Fox's Pontefract, p. 21. + Boothroyd’s Pontefract, p. 451. # “The present borough of Pontefract was incorporated by Richard III. It has uninterruptedly sent members to parliament since the reign of James I.”—Boothroyd's History of Pontefract, p. 446,482. Corpo- ration. 204 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Lords of Pontefract. supposed to have belonged to the king, as no Saxon proprietor is mentioned in Domesday-book. After the conquest, this manor, with one hundred and fifty others, or the greatest part of so many in Yorkshire, besides ten in Nottinghamshire, -and four in Lincolnshire, were given by William to Hildebert, or Ilbert de Lacy, one of his Norman followers, who re-erected a castle here.” The work was carried forward with unremitting assiduity for the space of twelve years; and in 1080 it was finished. The labour and expense attending its erection was so great, that no person, unless in possession of a princely fortune, could have completed a work of such magnitude. n - - This powerful baron was succeeded in his possessions by his son Robert, com- monly called Robert de Pontefract, from the circumstance of his being born at this town. Robert enjoyed his vast possessions in peace during the reign of William Rufus; but after the accession of Henry I. he imprudently joined with Robert duke of Normandy, the king's brother, who claimed the crown of England. In consequence of this transaction, Robert de Lacy was banished the realm, and the castle and honour of Pontefract were given by the king to Henry Traverse, and afterwards to Henry Delaval. The history of the Lacys is in this part somewhat obscure; but it appears that Robert was restored after a few years of exile; and dying in the latter part of the reign of Henry I. left two sons, Ilbert and Henry, the first of whom inherited his vast estates. Ilbert de Lacy, dying without issue, was succeeded by his brother Henry, who left his posessions to his son Robert. This Robert de Lacy dying without issue, A. D. 1193, the estate and honour of Pon- tefract devolved on his uterine sister, Aubrey de Lisours, who carried these estates of the Lacys by marriage to Richard Fitz-Eustace, constable of Chester. The estates of both these noble families descended to John Fitz-Eustace, who accom- panied Richard I. in his crusade; and is said to have died at Tyre in Palestine. Roger, his eldest son, who was also engaged in this expedition, succeeded to his honours and estates. He continued with Richard, and was present at the memorable siege of Acre, where he greatly contributed to the success of the Christians against the Mahometans. After his return to England, he rendered himself terrible to the hardy mountaineers of Wales, whose incursions he often and * A translation of the charter of confirmation by William I. is printed in Fox's Pontefract, p. 15. “The castle is supposed to be of Saxon origin; and the site of it is perfectly agreeable to their mode of fortification. While the Romans formed their camps on a plain, or on the level ground, and defended them by a foss and a vallum, the Saxons raised the area of their camps and castles, if the ground was level, or selected hills as places best adapted for defence and security. The elevated rock, on which the castle is built, stands wholly insulated; its sides, originally steep and craggy, form one of those appearances which indicate some great convulsion of nature, by which rocks have been rent asunder, and, the various strata of earth washed down to the valley.”—Boothroyd. - * Boothroyd's History of Pontefract, p. 65. Mr. Boothroyd here disagrees with Dugdale. THE COUNTY OF York. 205 vigorously repelled. He was the first of this family that took the name of Lacy. The estate, and honour of Pontefract continued in that illustrious name till the year 1310, when Henry, de Lacy, through default of male issue, left his pos- sessions to his daughter and heiress, Alice, who was married to Thomas earl of Lancaster; and, in ease of a failure of male issue from that marriage, he entailed them on the king and his heirs. - The earl of Lancaster, it is well known, was one of the chief opponents of Gaveston, the favourite of Edward II. The story may be seen at length it. Rapin, Hume, and other English historians. Edward was obliged to banish his minion; but he soon invited him to return, and meeting him at York, restored him to all his former honours. The earl of Lancaster, with the confederate barons, imme- diately flew to arms. Gaveston being closely besieged in Scarborough castle, was obliged to surrender, on condition of being brought to a legal trial. But the earls of Lancaster, Hereford, and Arundel resolved to put him to death as a public enemy; and, after a summary trial, caused him to be beheaded at Warwick. The people rejoiced at his death; but the king vowed vengeance, and a civil war would have been the consequence, if Edward had found himself in a state to contend with the barons. But the Spencers were admitted to the same degree of favour that Gaveston had enjoyed, and by a similar conduct excited the same general resentment. After a long series of dissensions between the king and the barons, the recital of which we shall omit, as belonging to general rather than to local history, a powerful confederacy was formed, and the earl of Lancaster put himself at its head. Both parties had now recourse to arms; but the barons not acting with the concert necessary in such undertakings, Lancaster soon found himself deserted by many on whom he had relied for support. He therefore entered into an alliance with the celebrated Bruce, king of Scotland, and resolved to march northward, in order to obtain reinforcements from that monarch.* The king, whose army was greatly superior to that of the rebels, sent the earls of Surrey and Kent to besiege the castle of Pontefract, which surrendered at the first summons, the earl of Lancaster having previously marched northward. In the meanwhile, Sir Simon Warde, governor of York, and Sir Andrew de Harkeley, governor of Carlisle, had united their forces at Boroughbridge, in order to guard the passage of the river. The earl of Lancaster having taken this route, found himself under the necessity of either fighting the king, who closely pursued him with a great superiority of numbers, or of forcing the pass before the royal army could come up. He chose the latter as the least dangerous measure, and ordered the bridge to be immediately attacked. But the death of Humphrey de Bohun, * Rapin says, that the Scots had promised him succours, vol. i. fol. 396. But Leland asserts, that he refused to have any connexions with Scotland. “ - vol. III. 3 G C H A P. VIII. Earl of Lancaster. 206 HISTORY OF Book VI. earl of Hereford, who fell in the beginning of the action, and the dread of being surprised by the king's troops, who were rapidly advancing, so daunted the courage of Lancaster's men, that instead of continuing the attack, they took to flight, and dispersed themselves in the country.* The earl, endeavouring to rally his troops, was taken prisoner, with ninety-five barons and knights, and carried to the castle. of Pontefract, where he was exposed to the insults of the soldiers. He was there. imprisoned in a tower, which Leland says he had “newly made towards the abbey.” It is probable that this was Swillington tower, which seems to have been designed as a place of close confinement, and is thus described by the learned historian of Pontefract: “The tower was square; its walls of great strength, being ten feet and a half thick; nor was there ever any other entrance into the interior than by a hole or trap-door in the floor of the turret; so that the prisoner must have been let down to this abode of darkness, from whence there could be no possible way of escape. The room was twenty-five feet square.” + A few days after, the king being at Pontefract, ordered him to be arraigned in the hall of the castle, before a small number of peers, among whom were the Spencers, his mortal enemies.j. The result of his trial was such as might have been expected. The earl was con- demned to be hanged, drawn, and quartered; but, through respect to his royal blood, the punishment was changed to decapitation. After sentence was passed, His death. he said, “Shall I die without answer?” He was not, however, permitted to speak in his own defence; but a certain Gascon took him away, and having put an old hood over his head, set him on a lean mare without a bridle. Being attended by a Dominican Friar as his confessor, he was carried out of the town amidst the insults of the people. Having reached the hill where he was to suffer, he kneeled down, and the executioner severed his head from his body. The prior and monks having begged his body of the king, buried it near the high altar of the priory. Thus fell Thomas earl of Lancaster, the first prince of the blood, being uncle to Edward II, who condemned him to death. His fate involved that of many others. On the day of his execution several lords, his adherents, were hanged at Pontefract, and on the following day the Lords Clifford, Mowbray, and Deynville, were executed at York, and their bodies hung in chains. The earl of Lancaster perished amidst the insults of the soldiery, and was branded with the odious name of traitor. But the people, who regarded him as the martyr of liberty, venerated him as a saint. It was even pretended that miracles were wrought at his tomb, and he was afterwards * Knighton says, that Robert de Holande had promised to bring him reinforcements, but disap- pointed him, which occasioned his defeat. See Knighton, p. 2540. - + Boothroyd's Pontefract, p. 95, 96, - - # The names of the lords who sat on his trial may be seen in Rymer’s Foed. vol. iii. p. 940. THE COUNTY OF YORK. - 207 canonized at the request of Edward III, the son of the monarch who put him to death.* - º The remains of this noble earl are, from circumstances connected with his death and burial, fairly presumed to have been discovered by two labourers on March 25, 1822, in a field called the Paper-mill field, lying near St. Thomas's hill, in Pontefract. On the removal of the earth, an antique stone coffin was discovered; the lid “had a ridge, and its dimensions within were six feet five inches in length, and nineteen inches in width. The skeleton was in high preservation, a rough stone was laid in place of the head, which rested between the thigh bones, a proof that the occupant of this narrow mansion had suffered decapitation. The remains, with the coffin, were removed, by order of Mrs. Milnes of Frystone hall, (the owner of the field where it was found) into her grounds, where they now remain. The next royal blood that stained Pontefract castle was that of King Richard II. who was here murdered, or starved to death ; for historians disagree in their accounts of the manner in which this unfortunate prince made his exit.'t In the succeeding reign of Henry IV. Richard Scroope, archbishop of York, being insidiously taken prisoner, was in this castle condemned to death. The sentence was executed near Bishopthorpe, on the 8th June, A. D. 1405.f Richard III. paved his way to the throne, by shedding the innocent blood of Anthony Woodville, Earl Rivers; Richard, Lord Grey; Sir Thomas Waughan; and Sir Richard Hawse. In the year 1483 these distinguished persons were basely murdered in Pontefract castle, without any legal trial.$ - . c H A P. VIII. His re- mains dis- covered. Richard II, murdered. Arch- bishop Scroope executed. Richard III. From this time till the reign of Charles I. few matters of importance occur in the history of Pontefract, except the easy surrender of the castle to the famous Robert Aske, captain-general of the Pilgrimage of Grace, in the reign of Henry VIII. In the contest between Charles I. and his parliament, Pontefract castle was the last fortress that held out for the unfortunate monarch. For the space of many centuries, this magnificent and formidable castle was the * “Queen Isabella petitioned the Pope for his canonization; and King Edward III. permitted a chapel to be built over the place where the earl was beheaded. But his canonization did not take place till the reign of Richard II.”—Brady, p. 138, 139, and Append. No. 64. - * See Tindal’s Notes on Rapin, vol. i. p. 490. # Drake's Ebor, p. 439. - - § “O Pomfret, Pomfret ! O thou bloody prison Fatal and ominous to noble peers Within the guilty closure of thy walls, Richard the second here was hack'd to death: And, for more slander to thy dismal seat, We give thee up our guiltless blood.to drink.” º - Shakspeare's Richard III. 208 - } HISTORY OF sº , BOOK WI. Civil war. Third siege, Castle destroyed. ornament and terror of the surrounding country. At the commencement of the disunion between the king and the parliament, it was garrisoned by the royal troops, and, soon after the battle of Marston moor, near York, it was besieged by the forces of the parliament. In the beginning of December, 1644, Sir Thomas Fairfax made himself master of the town; and, on Christmas, laid close siege to the castle.*. He was obliged, however, to raise it, on being defeated by Sir Marmaduke Langdale, in the early part of the ensuing year. . . . . . tº On General Langdale's departure, the troops of the parliament again collected, and the royalists in Pontefract castle had to sustain a second siege. On the 20th of July, 1645, the castle was surrendered by an honourable capitulation. Sir Thomas Fairfax was appointed governor; but as he was sufficiently employed in the field in pursuing the dispersed bodies of royalists, he placed Colonel Cotterell in the castle as his substitute. t - In the month of June, 1648, this fortress again fell into the hands of the royalists, through stratagem, and in October following the third siege of this famous castle commenced. General Rainsborough was appointed to the command of the army; but subsequently, Oliver Cromwell undertook in person to conduct the siege. Having remained a month before this fortress, without being able to make any impression on its walls, Cromwell found it necessary to join the grand army under Fairfax, and General Lambert being appointed commander-in-chief of the forces before the castle, arrived at Pontefract on the 4th of December; and on the 25th of March, 1649, the garrison, being reduced from between five and six hundred men to one hundred, and some of these unfit for duty, surrendered by capitulation.f. * - The tremendous effects of artillery had shattered its massy walls; and its demo- lition was completed by order of parliament. Within two months after its reduction, the buildings were unroofed, and all the valuable materials sold. Thus was this princely fortress, which had long been considered the glory and pride of Pontefract, reduced to a heap of ruins. At this day little even of these ruins remain; but * Whitlock, p. 102. # For a more detailed account of the three destructive sieges of this castle, see vol. i. p. 165, and Boothroyd's History of Pontefract, where they are described with circumstantial accuracy. f The following is an account of the receipts and expenses of demolishing Pontefract castle:– The - - 38 s. d. Monies received for lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1540 - 7 2 Monies received for timber...... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 7 10 Monies received for iron . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 2 4, Monies received for glass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 0 0 sº 1779 I'7 4 THE COUNTY OF YORK. 209 when they shall all have disappeared, the vast and solid mound will still continue to excite serious reflections on the instability of human greatness. • The castle of Pontefract is built on an elevated rock, and commands the most extensive and picturesque views of the surrounding country. - Its situation contributed greatly to its strength, and rendered it almost im- pregnable. It was not commanded by any contiguous hills, and the only way it could be taken was by blockade. In its perfect condition, the state-rooms of the castle were large, and accommo- dated with offices suitable for the residence of a prince. The style of this building shows it to be Norman; though it has received various additions and improvements of a later date. - - * The first member of this castle which merits notice, is the barbacan. This was situate on the west side of the outer yard, beyond the main guard. Barbacans were watchtowers, designed to descry an enemy at a distance, and were always outworks, and frequently advanced beyond the ditch, to which they were joined by draw-bridges. This barbacan formed the entrance into the castle, called the west- gate house. A similar tower, with a draw-bridge, stood near the Booths, and C. H. A. P. VIII. Situation of the castle. Descrip tion. formed the entrance on the east, and was called the east-gate house. The third gate was called the south gate, and opened into the road leading to Darrington and Doncaster, at the bottom of what is now called the castle garth. This gate led to another in the centre of the wall, which runs across the area from the east to the west gate, and was called the middle gate. The north side of this area was formed by the south wall of the ballium or great castle yard, in the centre of which wall was the porter's lodge, the grand entrance into the yard of the castle. All these gates might be, and frequently were, used as watch towers. The whole - 36 s. d. The charge for demolishing.................... • * * * * * 777 4, 6 - Monies allotted unto the town .......... ............. 1000 0 0 . The rest due to the commonwealth .......... * * * * * * * s a 2 12 10 - £1779 17 4 Debts owing for materials, which are due unto the commonwealth : ! * - . 38 s. d. For lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .... . . . . . . . 100 9 9 For timber. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 4 2 - - - For iron. ................. • . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .... . . . 2 17 8 . . . . . . . . . 3914.5 il 7 - g Boothroyd's Pontefract, p. 309. WOL. III. - 3 H 210 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. ===mg The keep. of this area was sometimes called the barbacan, and within it stood the king's stables, and a large barn. * w Near the barbacan, and close by the west entrance into the castle, was the main-guard; a place of considerable magnitude and strength. A deep moat or ditch was cut on the west side of the castle, extending from the west gate, round the great tower to the north; and another on the east, extending from the constable’s tower along to the east gate. - The wall of the ballium, or great castle yard, was high, and flanked with seven towers, called the round tower, the red tower, treasurer's or pix tower, Swillington's tower, queen's tower, king's tower, and constable's tower. The walls of the ballium had a parapet, and the merlons were pierced with long chinks, ending in eyelets. Within the ballium were the lodgings and barracks for the garrison and artificers, the chapel of St. Clement, and the magazine. - The magazine is cut out of a rock, the descent to which is by a passage of four feet wide, and forty-three steps to the bottom. It is six yards over and three broad, with six cavities cut out of the sides of the rock, and nine yards in depth from the surface of the earth. Near this place was a large dungeon, the entrance to which was at the seventeenth step of the passage, and was a yard in breadth, but it is now stopped up by the falling-in of the ruins. The wall, as you descend these steps, is inscribed with many names, evidently cut by the soldiers at the time of the siege of the castle; and amongst others, we find the following, who were officers in the castle at that period:— * , 16 Geo. 48 ſ 1648 John 1648 Beale. John Grant, Smith. The entrance into the ballium was usually through a strong machiolated and embattled gate, between two towers, secured by a portcullis. Over this were the rooms intended for the porter of the castle: the towers served for the corps de garde. - On an eminence, at the western extremity of the ballium, stood the keep or dungeon, here called the round-tower. It was the citadel or last retreat of the garrison. In large castles, it was generally a high tower of four or five stories, having turrets at each angle; and here we find there were six, three large and three small ones. When these towers were round instead of square, they were called juliets, from a vulgar opinion, that large round towers were first built by Julius Caesar. The walls of this edifice being of an extraordinary thickness, and having in consequence withstood the united injuries of time and weather, now remain more perfect than any other part of the castle. . Here commonly, on the second story, were the state rooms for the governor. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 21] The light was admitted by small chinks, which answered the double purpose of C § windows, and served for embrasures, whence they might shoot with long and cross-bows. These chinks, though without they had some breadth, and carried the appearance of windows, were very narrow next the chambers, diminishing con- siderably inward. • ' , - - The different stories were frequently vaulted, and divided by strong arches; on the top was generally a platform, with an embattled parapet, whence the garrison could see and command the exterior works. - The annexed engraving is a plan of that corner of the area of the castle, where the keep or dungeon, just mentioned, is situate, and also of the principal entrance. (a) Are the first outward steps, ascending from without to the area of the castle. (b) A second very steep flight of steps, within the ballium, ascending up the artificial mount, to the entrance of the keep. a (c) Is a narrow loop, well secured, and made through a wall no less than eighteen feet in thickness. * - On entering the keep, on the right hand, at d, are remains of a great staircase, going up to the state apartments above, which are now all destroyed. At e, is a small square room, probably designed for the captain of the guard. It is within one of the three round towers mentioned by Leland; and all the sub- stance of that tower, beneath this room, is solid stone work, quite to the bottom of the mount, a circumstance which shows the vast strength of this building, and A P. 212 History of BOOK WI. the improvement made on the original mount, and at the same time exhibits: a curious device for deception, something like that of the round tower at Rochester. The other small tower, being in like manner continued down to the ground, beneath the mount, contains a very singular, narrow, and most irregularly winding, zig-zag staircase; which goes down from the door at f to a small sallyport at a: ; and moreover leads to what appears to have been a well, at g; and besides this, it terminates in one part in a very frightful small dungeon, at z, * There do not appear to have been even loop-holes, or any admission for light or air, unless from the door, into the great lower apartment of the keep; only there was a small window in the captain of the guard’s room. . . . The diameter of the keep is about sixty-three or sixty-four feet. And between fand h is a very remarkable appearance; for after you have ascended a ladder, against the inside of the wall, for a few feet, you then look down into a dismal square cavity, at h, about fourteen or fifteen feet deep, or rather more; but only about five or six feet square; which cannot be conceived to have been applied to any other purpose than that of a dungeon, since there is neither loop nor door beneath, or any outlet whatsoever: nor does there appear the least possibility of there ever having been any; nor could it, from its shape and dimensions, have served for a staircase, or for drawing up timber and machines of war, or for any other purpose, than that of a place of severe confinement.* But this is not the only strange place within the inclosure of this formidable castle; for, fronting the foot of the stairs, at a little distance, at i, is the square mouth of another well, of a most extraordinary kind; having been either a very horrid dungeon, or the inward mouth of some very singular subterraneous sallyport. It is very deep, but quite dry; the sides are neatly lined with stone, and on that which is nearest to the foot of the stairs on looking down, appears, at a great depth, a very high arch, leading to some vault or passage. - of garden ground. r . That a church existed in this town long anterior to the conquest, is highly All-Saints church. At k is a very small, wretched chamber, formed in the thickness of the wall, which had two very narrow windows next the court. Here, tradition says, Richard II. was confined and murdered; but the smallness of the room hardly agrees with what is related of the manner of his death by a blow with a battle-axe, from Sir Piers Exton, as his being so murdered was a story generally received and believed. i . . . . . The whole area occupied by this stupendous fortress seems to have been about seven acres, which is now principally converted to the much more useful purpose •--" ". * Boothroyd's Pontefract, p. 167. THE COUNTY OF YORK. - 213 probable, if not certain; and the Domesday survey establishes the fact, that one did exist at that period. The present church of All-Saints cannot, however, be referred to a period so remote. - - It is altogether uncertain by whom the church was built. The present structure, most probably, may be referred to the reign of Henry III. a period in which most of our parish churches were erected. : This church is in the form of a cross, with a handsome tower in the intersection, which was crowned with an octagonal lantern, enriched with sculpture. Gent informs us, (on the authority of other writers,) that the four outward corners of the belfry, in which there were twelve bells, were adorned with four images of the Evangelists. The lantern is said to have been ornamented with the effigies of the eight apostles standing on pedestals joined to the several corners. The length of this church from east to west is fifty-three yards, and from north to south twenty-seven yards. This place is remarkable for the two entrances of a double staircase ascending to the belfry, and from thence to the top of the second battlement. The staircase is in the north-west corner, adjoining the column, but not within it. Both gradations turn round on one centre, and they are both circumscribed within the same space. - The chancel was double, extending farther north, and a little farther south, than the eastern parts. A cross aisle, from two opposite and proportionable doors, equally divide it, and run the whole length of its boundaries. Above the doors are two large pointed windows. - - 4 - The western part was not so broad as the eastern. The roof of the side aisle was much lower than that of the nave or body, forming a kind of penthouse to the nave, like many of our old parish churches. The nave is divided from the aisles by four pointed arches, resting on octagonal columns. In the clerestory above, a range of windows was made, to give light to the nave or body. A parapet wall was carried round the nave of the western part, so that any person might walk upon the roof with safety. - The windows in the east and west afford a fine specimen of the magnificence and peculiar effect of the pointed style of architecture. They are of large dimensions, and the stone mullions exceedingly slender. - The cross aisles and chancel only seem to have been furnished with pews, and appropriated to the use of the parishioners. The whole western part, with its beautiful pointed arches, formed a magnificent entrance to the part employed in divine service. . In this respect this fine parish church strongly resembles our cathedrals and minsters. *. The font is an octagon, situate beneath the great tower. The south transept is enclosed, and used for funerals, &c. VOL. III. 3 I C H. A. P. VIII. 214 º HISTORY OF BOOK. VI. During the siege, this church received such injuries as could not easily be repaired. Its fine lantern was battered down, its interior destroyed, and the whole roof considerably damaged. Although the parliament allotted a thousand pounds, out of the money arising from the sale of the materials belonging to the castle, towards its repairs, little appears to have been done. Above the top of the square tower an octagon was raised, with spires at each angle, instead of the ancient lantern ; and this seems all that was then effected. It would not be generous to charge the parishioners with negligence and inattention to this magnificent church. It is more consonant to charity to believe, that they found themselves incompetent to restore it to its former grandeur; and at length reluctantly resigned it to the cankering tooth of all-devouring time.* The church of All-Saints was given to the priory by its founder, Robert de Lacy. The brethren of his house performed divine services, and enjoyed all the tithes, first-fruits, and oblations of the parish. The rectory continued in their possession St. Giles’s church. till the surrender of the house to the king; when it went, as part of their property, to the augmentation of the king's revenue. Pontefract has only one church, in which divine service is celebrated. This church is mentioned as early as the reign of Henry I, in the charter of Hugh Delaval, in which it is called “ St. Mary de foro,” although, from some causes at present unknown, it has, since the beginning of the fifteenth century, obtained the name of St. Giles. After the siege, the ruined condition of the parish church of All- Saints rendered it necessary to perform divine service in this of St. Giles; and from that period this church has undergone various alterations and improvements. It had only a small steeple without any bells, previous to the year 1707. At that period Sir Thomas Bland, of Kippax park, the member for this borough, gratified his constituents by building, at his own expense, the steeple, which, on account of its shattered state, was lately pulled down, and the present erected. The church appears to have been originally of very small dimensions, as it has been enlarged both in length and breadth, and is yet on a contracted scale. Its length, from east to west, is only forty-two yards and three quarters, and its breadth, from north to south, is eighteen yards and two feet: its exterior appearance is destitute of elegance, the whole being built without regard to any order of architecture. The interior, however, yields to few in neatness; and the chancel has been lately ornamented with a tolerable painting, by John Standish, a self-taught artist of eminent merit, and a native of the town. “ The subject is the Crucifixion; and, aS * After the restoraton one effort more was however made to save it from ruin. A brief was granted within the county, and the sum of £1,500 was raised ; which was unfortunately intrusted to a man (Dr. N. J ohnson), whose name as an antiquarian deserves respect, but whose conduct in this instance will cover it with reproach: for he embezzled the whole sum. r - - * THE COUNTY OF YORK. - 215 far as the pencil can realize the awful scene, it is here realized. The attitude of the Saviour, after yielding up the ghost, is finely conceived, and well expressed. The group of pious women who stand round the cross, and among whom Mary, our Lord's mother, is distinguished by her looks and the poignancy of her sorrow, adds considerably to the effect, and the whole lives on the canvass.” ** By an act of parliament, passed in the 29th year of George III. this church was constituted the parish church of Pontefract. - The benefice of All-Saints is a vicarage valued in the Liber regis at £13. 6s. 8d. St. Giles is a curacy not in charge. Both are in the patronage of the Chancellor of the duchy of Lancaster. - - - St. Clement's chapel, within the castle, was built by Ilbert de Lacy in the reign of William Rufus, and was doubtless designed as a place of worship for himself and his attendants, including those who dwelt in the park and St. Nicholas’ hospital.” It appears, from the foundation which still remains, to have been on a small scale, and not capable of containing more than three hundred people. Situated close to Constable tower, and extending towards the king's tower, it was securely pro- tected from the hostile attacks of an enemy. This chapel was amply endowed by its founder. It was collegiate and free, governed by a dean, and is said to have had three prebends. At the dissolution of the adjacent priory, an inventory was taken of the goods, \ C. H. A. P. VIII. St. Cle- ment’s chapel. ornaments, and plate belonging to this chapel. The goods were valued at £2.8s. 10d. ; and the plate used in celebrating divine service at £4. 14s. 8d. The rental of the deanery is stated to have been £22. 12s. 7d. The church of St. Thomas was erected on the very spot where the earl of St.Tho. mas’s Lancaster was beheaded. No part of the building remains. The site may yet church. however be distinguished in the close, through which a footpath leads to Frystone, on the hill which still retains the name of the earl, and which will most probably convey it down to the latest posterity. - - l Judging from the site, this church appears to have been of small dimensions; but from the opulence of the family to whose honour it was raised, there can be no doubt of its elegance and interior decorations. In the interior was a very beautiful tomb, built in commemoration of the earl; from whom, as Walsingham affirms, “blood flowed out profusely in the year 1359;” and, amongst numerous miracles, the two following are noticed more par- ticularly by him, “ that his girdle assisted women in travail,” and “his hat cured all pains in the head.” * In the certificate of colleges, 1st of Edward VI. it is said that in St. Nicholas's hospital were made all their offerings and privy tithes to the dean. . 216 HISTORY O H' $300K VI. Hermitage Chapels. Religious houses. Priory. Adjoining to this church, was founded an hermitage, about the year 1368. It was begun by Adam de Laythorpe, and Robert, his son. The lands belonging to it were very extensive, as appears from the several grants. - Within the town are the prevailing denominations of professing Christians, viz.: Catholics, Dissenters, Wesleyan Methodists, and a Society of Friends. - The place of worship erected by the catholics stands on a piece of ground, called, in old deeds, Hally walls, and is a neat edifice, with a well-finished interior. The Wesleyan Methodists gained by degrees a small society, and in the year 1790 a small chapel was opened; this, however, was found too confined, and at . the close of the year 1824 a very large and handsome new meeting-house was built at the bottom of Micklegate. The Primitive Methodists, also, have a large chapel in Lower Barlegate, erected in 1823. - - The first notice of the Quakers having a meeting-house here, occurs in 1685, when the plot of ground on which the present edifice stands was granted to certain persons, and their heirs and assignees for ever, in trust to erect a meeting-house, and form a burial place for the use of the members. The Independents have a neat and well finished place of worship, which was commenced in 1795, and completed during the following year. In noticing the most remarkable monasteries, or religious houses, which have been situate within this borough, the priory of St. John deserves first attention. Although nothing remains to give a complete idea of the extent or beauty of this structure, we may justly conclude from the liberality of its founder, the donations conferred upon it, and its general reputation, that it was a place of considerable extent and importance. The plot of ground, now called Monkhill, and which con- tinues extra-parochial, clearly ascertains the grange and the homestead of the priory. The priory was founded by Robert de Lacy, usually called Robert de Pontefract, in the year 1090, during the reign of William II. for the health of the soul of King William the Conqueror, and also for the souls of Ilbert his father, Hawise his mother, and of all his ancestors and posterity. The monks were of the order of St. Benedict; but as this order, by the influx of wealth, had considerably relaxed its severity, and conformed too much to the spirit of the world, the rule had been amended, and the order reformed by St. Berno and other abbots of Clugny. The priory was surrendered by James Twaytes, the prior, and the convent, into the hands of the king, on the 24th of November, in the thirty-first of Henry VIII. It appears by returns into the court of augmentation, that the king gave the prior the deanery of St. Clement, in the castle, with all its possessions, rights, tithes, and emoluments, during the term of his natural life; and the site of the priory, with all * THE county of York. 217 the houses, buildings, gardens, orchards, and the demesne lands to the same belong- ing, was let on a lease to Peter Mewtas, Esq., at the annual rent of £23. 17s. 8d. The Dominican or preaching friars settled a house here, which is said to have been founded by one Symon Pyper. The seat of this house was nearly in the centre of the garden, now called Friar wood. A draw-well, and various foundations which have been removed in the low garden, now in the occupation of Mr. Halley, ascertain the place where it once stood. - A more delightful spot could not have been well selected. Embosomed in a wood, screened from the cold northern and westerly winds by high grounds, the brothers enjoyed all the advantages of privacy and retirement, in a warm and well sheltered abode. * - - - * - In this house was interred Roger de Mowbray, who died in the 51st of Henry III. On the suppression of the lesser religious houses, in the 28th of Henry VIII. this house was surrendered by the prior, seven friars, and one novice. The house and land belonging to it were granted to W. Clifford and Michael Wildbore. The Austin friars had a house here; and it is probable their house was the one which Edward III, granted William L. Tabourere leave to found as an oratory for eight indigent persons, with an independent chaplain of the order of St. Augustine, or Austin. There can be little doubt that the hospital, now called Bede houses, was the residence of these brethren. The name Bede, which is from the Saxon, bidan, to pray, is synonymous with the Latin term oratory, or house of prayer. The Carmelites, or white friars, also, had a house here, of which no vestige remains, nor any tradition of the place where it stood. - | The hospital of St. Nicholas existed before the conquest, but by whom built or endowed does not appear. - - - w Robert de Lacy was a considerable benefactor to it in the time of Henry I. and has by some writers been considered the founder of it; but it is clear that it was built before this period, as the Cluniac monks, who were brought here in the pre- ceding reign, resided in it till their own house was fit for their reception. He gave to the monks the wardenship of this hospital. - In the eighteenth of Henry VI. 1438, the king, by letters patent, which were confirmed by the whole of the parliament, gave this hospital to the prior of Nostall, with the advowson and all the estates thereto belonging, amounting to £97. 13s. 10d. per annum, to be converted to their own use, the canons paying out of the profits thereof, to the king and his heirs, as dukes of Lancaster, twenty marks per annum. They maintained here, till the dissolution, a chaplain and thirteen poor people. Their revenue is stated at that time to be the same as above mentioned. After the dissolution of the religious houses by King Henry VIII, this place seems to have been entirely neglected, and its purposes and institution much WOL. III. - 3 k C H A P. VIII. Black Friars. Austin Friars. White Friars. St. Nicho- las’ hos- pital. S218 - - HISTORY OF Book VI. perverted and abused, which caused the corporation to endeavour to obtain powers Lazar house. Trinity hospital. for its better government and regulation; and in the charter granted by King James in the year 1605, there is a clause for vesting it in the corporation. In the fourteenth year of the reign of Edward I., 1286, Henry de Lacy built a lazar-house here, and dedicated it to St. Mary Magdalene. The order of St. Lazarus, of Jerusalem, appears to have been founded for the relief and support of lepers and impotent persons of the military order. Archbishop John le Romane granted an indulgence to all those who contributed to the relief of the poor therein. “It appears probable,” says Dr. Boothroyd, “ that the hospital called Frank's hospital, is either the lazar-house, or has been built on the site of it. The figure of a knight (apparently a crusader), cut in stone, in the wall, nearly as large as life, seems to justify this conclusion. This figure is now much defaced; the arms have been broken off and the head nearly destroyed.” - - Knolles', or Trinity, hospital and college was founded in the reign of the unfortunate Richard II. by Sir Robert Knolles, a gentleman as illustrious for his valour and military achievements, as for his liberality to the indigent, and his regard to the claims of piety. According to Leland, he had intended to erect it on his manor of Scoulthorp, three miles from Walsingham; but influenced by the desire of his lady, he changed his intention, and to do her the greater honour, erected it on the very spot where she was born. r -* * This college and hospital was built in a style suitable to the purposes for which it was intended. A considerable part of the buildings still remains, and gives some faint idea of what they once were. The place now called the galleries was the residence of the master of the college and the six chaplains. Each had his separate chamber or cell, where he could retire for the purposes of devotion; and like other religious houses, it is probable there was a common refectory, or dining room, where they all met together. What are now called the brother and sister houses must have been the hospital, where the poor were provided with every comfort, and the sorrows of old age were alleviated by the kind hand of charity. The church was on a small scale (lately used as a shed for cattle), but appears to have been a neat, if not an elegant structure. Dedicated to the Holy Trinity, it was esteemed peculiarly sacred; and here the wardens, chaplains, clerks, and poor, united in their daily devotions. - - At the suppression of religious houses, the revenue of this house, according to Speed, was £182. 13s. 7d. - On October 23, 1562, Queen Elizabeth, in the sixth year of her reign, by grant under seal of her duchy of Lancaster, after reciting that her commissioners ap- pointed for the continuance of grammar schools, fresh appeals, and other things, had appointed to continue one alms-house, called Knolles' Almshouse, in which THE county of York. 219 were maintained fifteen aged people, whereof two of the said fifteen were servants to the rest, and that every one of the said fifteen should have yearly £2. 13s. 4d., did authorize the mayor and comburgesses, or chief burgesses, for the time being, from time to time, as the rooms of the alms-people should happen to be vacant, to place other aged, impotent and needy meet persons in the same rooms, according to the ancient foundation thereof, as should be thought most expedient. The Beadhouse is situate at the bottom of Micklegate, and has eight rooms, in which are placed sixteen poor people. There is a small parcel of ground at the back of this hospital belonging to it. - 2 * On the 20th of May, 1620, Mr. Richard Thwaites, by his will, gave two cottages, divided into four rooms, and also two gardens thereto belonging and adjoining, for, an hospital for four ancient poor women, who shall be single women, to dwell severally in the said four rooms, and have equal shares and profits of the two gardens. * - Frank's hospital is situate at the bottom of Micklegate, and formerly contained only one apartment, in which were placed two poor women. - - Mr. Robert Cowper, of Darrington, by his will, dated May 20, 1668, gave two cottages or tenements, in Pontefract, for the use of four poor widows of the town of Pontefract, and appointed Samuel Drake, D. D. John Ramsden, John Frank, and Robert Tatham, gentlemen, feoffees, to elect poor widows, of the town of C H A P. VIII. Beadhouse Frank's hospital. Pontefract, when and as often as vacancies should happen in either of the said two -- tenements; and did likewise desire and appoint that when any of the said feoffees die, that the surviving number shall have power to elect another to act in his stead. This hospital was situate at a place formerly called Boner hill, in the middle of the beast fair, where the corn market is now held; but being in a very ruinous state, as well as inconvenient in point of situation, in the year 1765 it was pulled down, and a new hospital erected at the Butts, at the expense of the town, in lieu of the old one, which cost the sum of £90. . - Perfect's hospital is situate at the bottom of Micklegate, and was built in the year 1667, at the joint expense of the town and the corporation. - Perfect’s hospital. Edward Watkinson, of Ackworth, M. D. by his will (dated April, 1765), gave all the residue of his personal estate to the corporation of Pontefract, for charitable llSeS. - - i - - - A grammar school was established here in the second year of the reign of Edward VI., and various others within the honour of Pontefract. - Grammar school. The endowment of this school was small; the sum of £2, 19s. only being annually allowed to the school-master, but it was increased in the twenty-fifth year of Elizabeth. In the fifth year of that queen's reign, complaint was made of the inattention and negligence of the schoolmaster, to the chancellor of the duchy, 220 - HISTORY OF Book VI. and in consequence the right to present a suitable master was vested in the mayor and aldermen. - - • * , - In the lapse of about a century the school again fell into decay, and for some years no schoolmaster applied for the appointment. The inhabitants, desirous to restore this foundation and to render it permanently useful, petitioned the duchy court, and engaged to rebuild the school, and to purchase or erect a house for the residence of the schoolmaster. The petition of the inhabitants was graciously received; and in the thirty-second year of the reign of George III, the school was refounded, and a charter was granted, containing rules and regulations for its better government in future.* The number of boys on this foundation is fourteen, one of which is to be taken from the charity school, and educated free from all expense; the remainder are to pay one guinea per annum for being taught the Greek and Latin languages; and such as learn writing and arithmetic are to pay one guinea more. The admission of such boys is by ballot among the curators, and the boy that has a majority is elected. But no boy can be chosen unless the parents are legally settled in the townships of Pontefract or Tanshelf. Stump CrOSS, Market CIOSS, A curious remnant of antiquity, called Stump cross, is situate on the road from Ferrybridge to Pontefract. The shaft of this cross has perished long ago, and nothing but the base now remains. At what period it was erected, or for what particular purpose, is uncertain. Browne, on ancient sculpture and painting, ob- serves, “ that the sculptures which were on the shaft of this cross bespeak it Roman.” These consisted of a circular-headed recess with an eagle, foliage, runic knots, paterae, &c." It is not probable that this cross was erected so early as the time of the Romans. - * -- - - The market cross was erected in the year 1734, on the site of the ancient cross of St. Oswald, by the lady of Solomon Dupier, a gentleman who resided here a short time, as appears by the inscription on one end of the building, * The cross is composed of a handsome dome, supported upon pillars of the Doric order. Gough reprobates the removal of the ancient cross, and says, “As if Pontefract was to show no evidence of its splendour, St. Oswald's cross gave place within these thirty years to an unmeaning market house.” The old cross, commonly called Osgood cross, gave the denomination to the wapentake, and was a sanctuary at which none could be arrested. It had a freed way to it, as well as an unpaved portion of ground of about two yards in breadth surrounding it; within which boundary, as tradition has it, the corporate body of the town could not seize any person for debt, &c. - * This charter is printed in Fox's Pontefract, p. 334. * Wide Gentleman's Magazine, March, 1806. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 221 The erection of the conduit near the cross was commenced in the year 1571, and finished in the following year, during the reign of Queen Mary. Being in a ruinous state about the year 1810, and the supplies of water being insufficient for the public use, a clause was inserted in the act of parliament, 50th George III. wherein the pump and its appurtenances were vested in the power of the com- missioners of the streets, who were bound to see it kept in proper repair. The town hall is an elegant modern structure, situate at the eastern end of the market-place. The lower part is rusticated, and gives to it the appearance of great strength. In this part are two rooms for prisoners. The upper portion of this edifice has fluted Doric pilasters supporting a pediment. It .**t, s erected on the site of the old mote-hall, partly at the expense of the corporation, and partly of the county. The quarter, sessions for the wapentake of Osgoldcross are held here. - - erected at the expense of the county, upon the site of the mansion of the late Colonel Ramsden. It is of stone, with a portico of four Ionic columns supporting an entablature, within which are the royal arms. Here the principal general sessions of the peace for the west riding of the county of York are held annually in Easter week, at which a return of the quantity of woollen cloths milled in the clothing districts, during the preceding year, has hitherto been made by the searchers to the magistrates, and promulgated by them for the information of the country. w * sº A small but neat theatre was erected in this town, in the latter part of the last century. N - - Near the north-east corner of the castle, at the foot of a hill on the road towards Ferrybridge, is Newhall. It is of a square form, adorned at each angle with turrets, and its style of architecture appears to be of the reign of Henry VIII., although Camden, in his Britannia,” states it to have been built during the reign of Elizabeth, and to have been sometime the residence of Edward Talbot, earl of Shrewsbury. On entering the court is an old gateway, over which are the arms of the above nobleman, and the date of 1591. The rooms of this hall were very lofty and spacious : in the upper story, one of them was ninety feet in length. It was occupied by different tenants, as a farm house, until within a short period, when, the lead being taken off, its timbers were exposed to the weather, and it consequently fell into a state of dilapidation. - - On the road, near St. Thomas's hill, is a deep ravine, cut through the solid rock, forming a part of the road, which has acquired the name of “Nevison's leap, from the following singular tale:—“Nevison, a noted highwayman of the last century, vol. iii. p. 286. WOL. III, - 3 L At the top of the Cornmarket is the court-house. This handsome edifice was C H A P. VIII. Town hall. Court house. Theatre. Newhall. 222 - HISTORY OF Book VI. having committed a robbery in the neighbourhood of Pontefract, and being closely pressed by his pursuers, in order to make his escape, desperately leaped across the road where the rock is cut through at the greatest width, and thus eluded for a while the grasp of his pursuers.” Pontefract PoNTEFRACT PARK+ (which is extra-parochial), had, as well as the adjacent park. forests, formerly keepers, and the game was secured by the forest laws. A family of the name of Hippon, which came in with the Conqueror, were hereditary keepers of Pontefract park. This family resided at Featherstone, and continued in their office under the Lacies and Plantagenets, down to the time of Queen Elizabeth, when an account was taken of the deer and wood in the park. After the revolution it was leased off to the Moncton family, with a reservation of the rights of the inhabitants of the borough of Pontefract, and of the township of Tanshelf, to their usual gates and strays. It wholly remained in the possession of this family till an act of parliament was obtained, in the year 1780, for dividing and improving this extensive district of land. By this act three hundred and twenty-five acres were alloted to the inhabitants of Pontefract and Tanshelf, in lieu of all their rights; and provision was made for its cultivation and management. Here is a good race, ground, with a stand. In the grounds of Edward Trueman, Esq. on the south side of the town, is the monument, a lofty obelisk, erected in September, 1818, in commemoration of the battle of Waterloo. On the base is the following inscription : “This monument was erected September, KS18, in commemoration of the splendid and decisive victory of Waterloo ; achieved by British valour, under the immortal Wellington, the 18th of June, 1815.” Coghill- Coghill-hall, in this parish, was for several centuries the property of the family hall. from which it derived its name. It was purchased of Sir John Coghill, Bart. by the countess of Conyngham in 1796. It is now the residence of Dr. Harrison. There are several townships in the parish of Pontefract. Hºuns: Knottingley is a very populous chapelry, one mile from Ferrybridge, and three y. from Pontefract, with a population of 3,753 persons. The chapel is very large, comprising a nave and chancel, with a bell turret at the west end. It appears to have been much enlarged in the early part of the present century. At the west end are good school rooms. There is a neat chapel here which belongs to the Wesleyan Methodists, and also one in the Independent persuasion. This village is situate on the banks of the Aire, and has long been noted for * Fox's Pontefract, p. 355. f To our royal and baronial castles usually belonged two parks,one enclosed with a wall for fallow deer, the other for red deer, fenced around with a hedge. THE COUNTY OF YORK. - 223 º its merchandise in lime. A branch canal, from the Aire and Calder navigation, to Goole, distant seventeen miles, has much increased the trade of this thriving and populous village. * - In this village were erected, soon after the conquest, the royal corn-mills, and at these mills and the ancient corn wind-mill at Pontefract, the several towns and villages" of Pontefract, Knottingley, Beaghall, and Cridling Stubbs, were accustomed to grind all their grain. But a number of wind-mills being built, the inhabitants gradually ceased to use the royal mills; and a complaint being made by the officers of the duchy of Lancaster to King James I., he, in the 20th year of his reign, issued a proclamation, prohibiting any of the inhabitants from grinding grain except at the mills of the soke. A short time, however, had only elapsed, when the inhabitants of Pontefract, Tanshelf, and Monkshill disregarded the royal commands, and disused the ancient duchy mills at Knottingley. In consequence of this the attorney-general exhibited a bill of information in the court of chancery, against the mayor of Pontefract, and several of the inhabitants. It was ultimately decreed that the inhabitants of the aforesaid towns and villages should not grind their corn at any other mills “ save at the royal duchy mills at Knottingley, and the ancient stone wind-mill at Ponte- fract; provided always, that if it shall at any time happen that the said mills at Knottingley stand in back water, or be in decay, or want water, or be overcharged with work, so that the inhabitants of Pontefract, Tanshelf, and Monkhill, aforesaid, or any part of them, cannot have their corn ground there within the space of twenty-four hours after the same be brought to the said mill; that then, in such cases when it shall so happen, it shall and may be lawful for every such person of the said towns, whose corn shall so have staid four-and-twenty hours at the said mills at Knottingley, and cannot be ground, to take and carry the grist to any other mill to be ground.” The townships of Carleton, with a population of one hundred and thirty-two, and Tanshelf, which adjoins Pontefract on the west, contain no objects deserving particular notice. The latter place has a population of three hundred and fifty-six. East Hardwick has a population of ninety-six, and a small but neat chapel. WRAGBY is a small parish, five miles and a quarter from Pontefract, and six miles from Wakefield. The population in 1821 amounted to 660 persons. The church is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Michael. Patron, C. Winn, Esq. It is a small edifice of stone. *. The townships of West Hardwick (population ninety-three), Ryhillf (population one hundred and forty-seven), Winterseti (population one hundred and thirty-five), * Fox's Pontefract, p 82. - + In Stain cross wapentake. f Ibid. C H A P. VIII. Ancient mills. Carleton. Tamshelf. East Hard- wick. Wragby. West Hardwick. Ryhill. Winterset. 224 * HISTORY OF Book VI. Hasle (population one hundred and thirty-nine), Hill-top (population ninety-seven) Hasle. and Hurstwick, with Nostal, (population forty-nine), contain nothing worthy notice. Hººk. Nostal priory is the seat of Charles Winn, Esq. - sº In the reign of Henry I. Ralph Adlave, that king's chaplain, founded a priory here, for canons regular of the order of St. Augustine, in the year 1121 ; the situation was very woody, and had previously been chosen by a few hermits, where they had built themselves a little hall, and an oratory, or church, dedicated to St. James. The priory, founded by Adlave, was dedicated to St. Oswald, the king and martyr, to which were granted many privileges. Robert de Lacy granted the monks the wood in which it was built, with two oxgangs of land, in Hardwick; for which reason the Lacy family looked upon themselves, and were always deemed, as founders. At the suppression its revenues were valued at 4921, 18s. 2d. The site was given, in the 31st of Henry the Eighth, to Thomas Leigh, LL.D., one of the visitors of religious houses; it afterwards became the property of Sir Richard Gargrave, Knight, who sold it to Ireland, Esq.; by him it was sold to George Winn, Esq. who was afterwards created a baronet by King Charles II. The present house was built by Sir Rowland Winn, Bart. in the beginning of the last century, near the site of the old priory. It stands on an eminence, in the midst of a fertile and well cultivated tract of country. The principal front to the east is of very great length, extended by two wings of irregular form. The centre is ornamented with a pediment, supported by six attached Ionic columns, and displaying the arms of the family. The interior contains some fine apartments, and amongst the paintings is one of Sir Thomas More and his family, by Holbein: The family of Winn is descended from the house of Gwydir, who left Wales in the sixteenth century, and settled in London.* * - Ackworth. The parish town of Ackworth is situate three miles from Pontefract and five from Ferrybridge. The population of the parish in 1821 amounted to one thousand five hundred and seventy-five persons. Ackworth is nominally divided into two villages, High and Low, adjoining each other. The benefice is a rectory, valued in the king's book at £22. 1s. The church is a small but neat edifice. Patron, the king. - School. Between the two villages is the celebrated seminary belonging to the Society of Friends. This school was originally an appendage to the Foundling Hospital * “The immediate ancestor of this branch was George Winn, draper to Queen Elizabeth ; whose grandson, George, was created a baronet by King Charles II., 1660, at which time he resided at N stal. On the death of Sir Rowland Winn, in 1805, the title devolved upon his cousin, Edmund Mark Winn, Esq. of Ackton, and the family estates to his nephew, John Williamson, Esq. who, on coming of age, obtained his Majesty's license to bear the name and arms of Winn. He died in 1817, and was * succeeded by his only brother, Charles, the present possessor.”—Betham's Bar. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 225 in London, and was built partly by original subscription, and partly by aid of parliament. In 1777 the premises, with eighty-five acres of land, were offered for sale, when Dr. Fothergill, and some of the Society of Friends, purchased the whole for £7,000, and converted it into a seminary for the children of Quakers. The school has since been munificently supported by legacies, donations, &c. The sum paid for board, education and -clothes, is regulated by a committee. There are generally about three hundred pupils in this establishment, and nothing can exceed the order and regularity that prevail in the school, which stands in a beautiful and pleasant situation. The management is under the direction of a - superintendant, subject to the direction of a committee. Ackworth school is a C H A P. VI I I. spacious stone edifice, the main body fronting the south; and two wings, standing east and west, are joined to it by colonnades. At High Ackworth, Mrs. Mary Lowther endowed a school for youths of both sexes; she also founded an hospital for six poor women, each of whom receives £9. 10s. yearly from the same endowment. - In this parish are the following seats:–Ackworth park, John Petyt, Esq.; Ackworth house, John Goldsworthy, Esq.; Ackworth villa, Thomas, St. Quintin, Esq.; Ackworth lodge, the Rev. George Maddison; Ackworth Moor Top, Thomas Gee, Esq.; Ackworth grange, Richard Wilson, Esq.; and at Ackworth, D'Oyley Sanders, Esq. - BADsworth is a neat parish town, in the liberty of Pontefract; it is situate four miles from Pontefract, and six from Ferrybridge. The population, in 1821, amounted to two hundred persons. , a The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £32, 5s. 10d. Patron, the earl of Derby. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a neat edifice. Badsworth hall is the seat of J. Scott, Esq. The township of Thorpe Audling has a population of three hundred and forty- four persons, and Upton has one hundred and thirty-four inhabitants. ! The parish of KIRK BRAM witH is situate six miles from Doncaster, and seven from Thorne. The population amounts to two hundred and fifty-two persons. The benefice, a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £12, 18s. 4d., is in the patronage of the king. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, contains no monuments worthy notice. BURGH WALLIS is a small parish town, situate six miles and a half from Doncaster, and nine from Pontefract. Population two hundred and thirty-seven persons. - - The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £14. 6s. 10%d. Patron, M. Tasburgh, Esq. The church is dedicated to St. Helen. The ancient family of Ann have long been seated in this village. The mansion VOL. III. ' 3 M Seats. Badsworth. Thorpe Audling. Upton. Rirk Bramwith. Burgh Wallis. 226 - History of BOOK WI. Robin Hood’s Well. Campsall. is a handsome modern structure, erected in the commencement of the present century; it is now in the occupation of M. Tasburgh, Esq. In this parish is an inconsiderable hamlet, called Robin Hood's Well. Robin Hood's Well is a square building, about nine feet in height, on the side of the turnpike road. A mile and a half from this place Robin Hood is said to have plundered the bishop of Hereford; and about a quarter of a mile from the well is Bishop's Tree Root. On this spot (according to tradition) stood the tree round which Robin Hood made the bishop dance in his boots, after he had robbed him.” The parish town of CAMPSALL is situate eight miles from Doncaster and Ponte- fract. The population, in 1821, amounted to three hundred and eighty-nine persons. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary returns at £120. Patron, C. Yarborough, Esq. The church is dedicated to St. Mary, Magdalen. At this place was born Richard Frank, Esq. F.R.S. recorder of Pontefract and Doncaster, a polite scholar, and an antiquary of considerable repute. He died May 22, 1762, aged sixty. His valuable collections, including those of Dr. Johnston, a physician at Pontefract (which came into his hands on the death of the author's grandson, Henry Johnston), were, in 1780, in the hands of the late Bacon Frank, Esq. nephew and heir to the recorder.f Campsall is particularly remarkable for the school, and the Female Friendly Society, established some years ago at this village, by three young ladies, the daughters of Mr. Bacon Frank. The school, at which sixty or seventy girls attend, depends solely on the personal exertions of the Misses Frank. They teach the children themselves, and defray the whole expense of the school. For a circum- stantial account of the excellent management of this school, and the Friendly Society, we must refer our readers to Dr. Miller's History of Doncaster, f Here is the neat seat of the Rev. E. B. Frank. Askerne. Askerne is a small township, with one hundred and fifty-nine inhabitants. This village has of late years attracted considerable notice, on account of its mineral water, and probably may, in a few years, vie with many of our fashionable watering-places. An account of this water is given by Dr. Short, in his treatise on Mineral Waters; and in 1818, a treatise on the water and description of the * “Nescit sitis artem modi Puteum Roberti Hoodi. Veni, et liquente vena Vincto catino catena, “x Tollens sitim, parcum odi, Solvens obolum custodi.” - Drunken Barnaby's Journey. + Nichols' Literary Anec. it P. 348, 349. r- THE COUNTY OF YORK, - 227 place was published by Mr. Brewerton, a respectable surgeon at Bawtry. Hitherto people afflicted with rheumatism and scorbutic diseases have received the greatest benefit, as they rarely fail of obtaining relief. The spring rises at the distance of only a few yards from a piece of water called Askerne pool, and is enclosed in a house, called the Spa, or well-house, a plain rustic building. The pool or lake covers about seven acres of ground, is well supplied with fish, and beautifully fringed on one side with young plantations, and bordered on the other by a walk of gravel for the accommodation of visitors. The village skirts the road, is rural, but not particularly romantic in its scenery; but its cottages and trees harmonizing together, give it an interesting appearance. The hotel is an elegant edifice, built on the side of a gently sloping hill, converted into a shrubbery. There are other respectable inns at the north end of the village, and several lodging-houses for the accommodation of visitors. & In this parish are the townships of Fenwick,” Moss, Norton,f and Sutton. § They are all small but pleasant villages, interspersed with much picturesque scenery. The ancient parish town of CASTLEFoRD, situate at the confluence of the Aire and Calder, is three miles distant from Ferrybridge, and three and a half from C H A P. VIII. Fenwick. Moss. Norton. Sutton. Castleford. Pontefract. The population of the townships in 1821 amounted to one thousand and twenty-two persons. “I shall not take up my own time or the reader's attention,” says Dr. Whitaker, “ by proving what was never controverted among antiquaries, that this is the Legiolium or Lagecium of Antonine's Itinerary, a point which is sufficiently ascer- tained by distances, by its being interposed between Danum and Calcaria, and by the common circumstance of its being placed at the confluence of two con- siderable rivers, the Aire and Calder. By Leland, who was at Pontefract and at Nostal, it was wholly overlooked, and the discovery of it is owing to Camden. . Yet even he has recorded nothing of antiquity about the place but the frequent discovery of ancient coins, to which the ignorant inhabitants gave the name of Saracens' heads.” - - Stukeley saw the place in his Iter Boreale, and has described it with his usual penetration and exactness:— - - - “Here the Hermen street passes the river Aire, remarkable for its smooth face and gentle current." It is broad and deep withall. Thus the river Arar, synonymous * Population, 295. + Population, 242. f Population, 668. § Population, 145. | There is an ancient saw referring to the peculiar situation of this town : “Castleford women must needs be fair, Because they wash both in Calder and Aire.” *I “Antiquaries as well as poets often differ as to the same object. Baxter derives the Aire from a British word signifying ‘rough.” Thus the poet Collins has ‘ by rapid Scheld’s descending wave,’ 228 - r HISTORY OF B(){} K VI. in Gaul. The place where the Roman fort was is a little above the cascade, the stones are in great part left, but the milldam lays it too deep under water. Hence the paved road goes up the bank to the east side of the church, and forward through the fields, where innumerable coins are ploughed up. One part is called Stone Acre. § - - “A man told us. he had formerly ploughed up a dozen Roman coins in a day. Urns are often found. There are stone pavements, foundations, &c. “South of the church is a pasture called Castle Garth; here were buildings of the city; but the Roman castrum was where the church now stands, built pro- bably out of its ruins. It is very high ground, and includes the parsonage house, gardens, &c. The low ground of the ditch that encompassed it is manifest. The country people have a notion of its being an old city, and of the Roman road crossing the meadows by this ford, and of great seats and palaces having been here formerly. Here is a sweet meadow north of the castle, of great extent. There is a ditch a little west of the old castle, which I take to be some later work. The Romans ran the Hermen street through this country as much to the west as they reasonably could, to obtain fords over the numerous rivers, because they avoided ferries and bridges as troublesome, and wanting frequent reparations.”* - Such were the appearances of the place in the year 1725, when this great antiquary surveyed it with so much attention. After an interval of fifty-five years, when Dr. Whitaker first paid a visit to it, though grown as might be expected somewhat more indistinct, all concurred in proving the accuracy of his observations. “It is still a fact to me inexplicable that the sites of some of our stations, and Castleford among them, appear to have been sown with coins. When I was there considerable gleanings of the harvest remained, and, beside a pretty intaglia on a cornelian, I procured a scarce denarius of Caracalla, reverse a lion.” + The beneficei is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £20. 13s. 13 d. Patron, the king. - ... " - The church, which is dedicated to All Hallows, must have been erected by one of the first Lacies, and the little parish, consisting only of the townships of Castle- ford and Houghton, was in all probability detached from that of Methley, another Church. of their domains, to which no less than seven carucates of land are assigned in and Goldsmith, ‘or by the lazy Scheld.” But the one poet as well as antiquary had seen. the river he describes, and the other not.”—Whitaker. * Itin. Curioso. Iter Boreale, p. 76. + Loidis and Elmete, vol. ii. p. 262. : “ The tithes of this parish are settled by act of parliament; the rector receives twenty-eight quarts * of wheat for every ºf I rent paid by the tenant to his landlord, on arable land, and twenty quarts for every £2 rent on grass land.”—Langdale's Topog. Dict. THE county of York. 229 Domesday. The first mention of the church of Castleford occurs in a charter of Hen. de Lacy, the first, (without date, but sometime in the reign of Henry I.) by which he grants it with its appurtenances to the hospital of Burton Lazers, in Leicestershire. But it is evident that this grant never took effect. The same lord bestowed the profits of the ferry here on the monks of Pontefract. The bridge is consequently of later date. - Long afterwards two-thirds of the tithe of the demesne lands in this parish were alienated by John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, towards the maintenance of a chaplain in St. Clement's chapel, within his castle of Pontefract. The church is an indifferent building, apparently of no great antiquity, and with no other peculiarity about it than that of being built in the form of a cross, with the tower in the centre. The windows were formerly bordered with the arms of Castile and England, labelled, which were those of John of Gaunt. It is therefore a probable conclusion at least that he rebuilt the church in its present form. The arms of Neville arg. a saltire gules, were lately in one of the western windows. The entire edifice was repaired in September, 1830. There is a neat chapel here, belonging to the Wesleyan Methodists, and over the Aire is a stone bridge of three arches, built by Bernard Hartley in 1805. The Blands of Kippax Park are mesne lords of the manor. Thomas de Castleford, a Benedictine monk, who flourished about the year 1326, and who wrote a history of Pontefract, was a native of this village. Houghton Glass has four hundred and twelve inhabitants. The parish town of DARRINGTON is situate three miles from Ferrybridge. It has a population of five hundred and ten persons. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £16. 11s. 3d. Patron, the archbishop of York. - The church, dedicated to St. Luke, is a tolerable specimen of the ecclesiastical architecture of the fifteenth century. The interior is meat. Here is the seat of R. Oliver, Esq. Stapleton is a small township with one hundred and nine inhabitants. Stapleton hall, the seat of the Hon. Edward Robert Petre, stands in a large and beautiful park, watered by a stream that falls into the river Went, in the midst of the most fertile part of the county, bounded by an expanded range of distant hills; it was built by Edward Lascelles, Esq., afterwards earl of Harewood, and in which the present earl of Harewood was born. The centre of the principal front is ornamented with four Ionic columns supporting a pediment. The whole building is of stone, and is now entered by a handsome Doric portico, lately added. In the chapel, which is particularly neat, is an admirable painting of the Crucifixion; and in the library is a portrait of the great Lord Petre, by Romney; also one VOL. III. - 3 N C H A P: V III. Houghton Glass. Darrington Stapleton, Hall. 230 - History of BOOK WI. Feather- Stone. Peerston Jaglin. Acton. Whitwood. Ferry Fry- . St0me. Ferry- bridge. South Kirkby. North Elmsall. . South Elmsall. Shelbroke. of Lady Petre, by Gainsborough; the father and mother of the present pro- prietor.” • " . . . . . & The parish town of FEATHERstone is situate two miles from Pontefract, with a population of three hundred and thirty-seven persons. - The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £5. 8s. 6d. Patrons, the Dean and Canons of Christ Church, Oxford. The church, dedicated to All Saints, possesses no object deserving notice. - - n - Peerston Jaglin (population two hundred and forty-four), Actoni (population seventy-two), and Whitwood (population two hundred and ninety-two), possess no object deserving particular notice. - " * ' ' ' ' . - The parish town of FERRY FRystone is situate on the high road between Don- caster and Tadcaster; it is in the liberties of St. Peter and Pontefract, and two miles distant from the latter town. In 1821 the population of this parish amounted to seven hundred and seventy-seven persons. . . . . . . The church is a vicarage, dedicated to St. Andrew, and valued in the parlia- mentary return at £113. 8s. 10d. Patron, the succentor and vicars choral of York cathedral. It is a neat edifice, situate on an eminence, and has a tower at the west end. . . . . . . . . . • . - - * In this parish is Ferrybridge, a well built village, situated on the southern bank of the Aire, over which it has a handsome stone bridge of three arches. The inhabitants find their chief support from the passage of travellers, for whose accommodation there are several capital inns. i. This pass over the Aire was thought of great consequence in the time of Edward IV. and the possession of it occasioned a severe conflict between the armies of the rival houses of York and Lancaster. In the adjacent fields, and particularly about Brotherton Marsh, there have been often found human skeletons, ancient armour, and other relics of intestine war. . . . . - . . . SouTH KIRKBY is a secluded parish town, eight miles from Pontefract. Popu- lation, in 1821, six hundred and thirty-three persons. . - , The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £15. 10s. 23d. Patron, the Rev. G. Allott. • - - - - - The church is dedicated to All Saints, * . . . - - North Elmsall (population one hundred and thirteen), South Elmsall (population four hundred and fifty-three), Shelbroke (population one hundred and fifteen), are small townships in this parish. . . . . . . - • Neale's Seats. + In the lower division of Agbrigg wapentake. # It is two miles from Pontefract, fifteen from Doncaster, the same distance from Leeds, twenty-two from York, and one hundred and eighty-one from London. * º | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | THE COUNTY OF YORK. 231 ... The parish town of KIRR SMEEToN is situate six miles south from Pontefract. In Gº. 1821 there were three hundred and twenty-one inhabitants here. —— - , : o - . tº " * - e. , Kirk Smee- (The benefice is a rectory, dedicated to St. Mary, and valued in the Liber regis ton. at £10. 1s. 4d. Earl Fitzwilliam is patron. - - - The parish of Owston is situate six miles north of Doncaster. Its population Owston. - in 1821 amounted to three hundred and six persons. - The church, a small edifice, is a vicarage, dedicated to All Saints, and valued in the return to parliament at £100. Patron, P. D. Cook, Esq. - Owston hall is the neat mansion of P. D. Cook, Esq. d Skellow is a small but pleasant township, with one hundred and forty-six in- Skellow. habitants. The Grange, a neat mansion, is the seat of Godfrey Higgins, Esq. author of the Celtic Druids, &c. : The lower division of Osgoldross wapentake contains the following parishes: The parish and market town of SNAITH is a small town, in the liberty of snaith. Pontefract, at the distance of eight miles from Selby, and nine from Howden. The population, in 1821, amounted to eight hundred and thirty-four persons, inhabiting one hundred and seventy-six houses. A market is held here on Thursday, and fairs on the last Thursday in April, and on the 10th of August. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, of the clear yearly value of £44. Patron, N. Yarburgh, Esq. The church, a neat edifice, has nothing within it particularly worthy notice. The vault of Lord Viscount Downe is in the chancel. - - Airmyn is a considerable chapelry (population five hundred and seventy) on Airmyn. the road from Howden to Snaith. The chapel, a small edifice, is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary returns at £33. 12s. 9d. It is in the patronage of H. Yarburgh, Esq. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Here is a celebrated passage across the Ouse, called Booth Ferry. - - Cowick is a considerable township, containing nine hundred and five inhabitants. Cowick. Here is the seat of Lord Viscount Downe. This distinguished family came over with the Conqueror, and appears to be descended from Sir Paine Dawnay, of Dawnay Castle, in Normandy. Sir John Dawnay, of Cowick, the first viscount, was created Viscount Downe of Ireland, July 19, 1680; and John Christopher Burton Dawnay, the fifth viscount, was created an English baron, by the title of Baron Dawnay, May 28, 1798.*. . * . . . . . - Cowick and Snaith has a peculiar jurisdiction over several neighbouring villages, under the title of “the soke, bailiwick, and liberty of Cowick and Snaith,” and of which Lord Wiscount Downe is lord and chief bailiff. - . . . - The port of Goole, rapidly rising to celebrity, is of very recent formation. A Goole. report was made by Mr. Morris, surveyor-general, in which it is stated that “the * Debrett's Peerage. 232 HISTORY OF POOK WI. works at present constructed at Goole are two small docks, one of which is intended chiefly for the foreign trade, and the other exclusively for coasting vessels; the former is capable of containing between forty and fifty square-rigged vessels. Between the docks and the river is a basin with two entrance gates, one for the foreign, the other for the coasting trade;-from this basin there are two interior gates, one leading into the foreign trade dock, the other into the coasting dock. Parallel with one side of the foreign trade dock a range of warehouses, consisting of four stacks, is proposed to be erected, each stack to consist of three stories, besides vaults; the length of the whole 164 feet by 84.” After much trouble and difference of opinion among the officers of the customs at Hull and London, the government acceded to the request of the proprietors, and made Goole a port for the entry of coasting and foreign ships. - Gowdall. Hick. Hensall. Balne. +Hook. Pollington There is a neat custom-house, and a good chapel has been recently erected, belonging to the Wesleyan Methodists. The population of this place in 1821 amounted to four hundred and fifty persons. Gowdall (population two hundred and forty-three), Hick (population two hundred and twenty-eight), Hensall (population two hundred and thirty-three), and Balne (population three hundred and twenty-nine), are small townships in this parish. Hook is a chapelry, with three hundred and sixty-three inhabitants. The chapel is a curacy under Snaith, and is a small but neat edifice. . . . . The township of Pollington has a population of four hundred and eighty-three persons. The manor of this place is copyhold, and the custom is, that if a copy- holder dies seised of lands, having no issue male, but daughters, and does not surrender to them in his life-time, the same shall escheat to the lord of the said manor, and the daughters shall not inherit. Sir Henry Savile, of Methley, Bart. purchased this manor of Sir Thomas Metham, Knt.* - The chapelry of Rawcliffe has one thousand four hundred and ninety-six in- habitants. It is a curacy under Snaith; the chapel is small and meat. - Carleton't is a small chapelry, with seven hundred and seventy-five inhabitants. Here is a chapel of ease dedicated to St. Mary. The parish town of WHITGIFT, situate on the banks of the Ouse, has a popu- lation of three hundred and ten. It is six miles from Howden. This place is one of those many villages which encompass the river island, wherein are Ditchmarsh and Marshland. It was anciently the estate of the Lacies, earls of Lincoln, and afterwards descended to Henry, Lord Scroop, of Bolton, chief justice of the King's Bench.Ş Rawcli ffe, Carleton. Whitgift. * Blount's Ancient Tenures. + In the lower division of Barkston Ash wapentake. # The entire parish contains two thousand two hundred and two inhabitants. - - § Magna Brit. w - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 233 The benefice, a perpetual curacy, is in the gift of Lord Yarborough. The church, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, is valued in the king's books at £40. It is a small edifice, with a tower at the west end. In December, 1614, the Hon. Sir John Sheffield, with his brothers Sir Edmund and Mr. Philip Sheffield, sons to Lord Sheffield, lord president of the north, in passing Whitgift ferry over the Ouse, were drowned, with all their servants, and their bodies never found. During the siege of Hull, in 1643, the royalists erected a fort here, to prevent Hull from receiving supplies by water. The township of Ousefleet (population two hundred and fifty-three), Reedness (population six hundred and eighty-three), and Swinefleet (population nine hundred and fifty-six), have little deserving notice. At the last mentioned place is a chapel. It is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £93, 18s. 8d. ADLINGFLEET is a small parish town in the liberty of Pontefract, eight miles from Howden and Crowle. The population of this town, in 1821, amounted to two hundred and fifty-six persons. - The church is a vicarage, dedicated to All Saints, and valued in the Liber regis at £9. 12s. 11d. Patron, the king. It is a small humble edifice, with no monuments requiring notice. Fockerby (population one hundred and six), and Haldenby and Eastoft (popu- lation ninety-six), are small townships in this parish. - The parish town of KELLINGTON is situate midway on the high road from Snaith to Pontefract, being seven miles distant from either town. The population is two hundred and eighty-three persons.” The benefice is a vicarage valued in the Liber regis at £9. 8s. 11}d. Patron, Trinity College, Cambridge. The church, dedicated to St. Edmund, is a small edifice. - Beaghall, Egbrough (population two hundred and fifteen), and Whitley (popu- lation two hundred and eighty-four), are small townships in this parish. The parish town of WoMERSLEY is situate five miles from Pontefract and Ferry- bridge. Population three hundred and sixteen. - * The church, a small edifice possessing no feature worthy notice, is a vicarage dedicated to St. Martin, and valued in the Liber regis at £6. 11s. 5d. Patron, Lord Hawke. - ſº - 2 Here is a seat belonging to the above nobleman. • Cridling Stubbs (population ninety-six), Little Smeaton (population one hundred and seventy-six), and Walden Stubbs (population one hundred and fifty-eight), contain nothing worthy notice. C H A P. VIII. Ousefleet. Reedness. Swinefleet. Adling- fleet. Fockerby. Haldenby. Eastoft. Kellington * The parish contains one thousand three hundred and twenty-eight persons. VOL. III. 3 O Beaghall. Egbrough. Whitley. Womers- ley. Cridling Stubbs. Little Smeaton. Walden Stubbs. 234 - HISTORY OF CHAPTER IX. SURVEY OF THE WAPENTAKES OF MORLEY AND AGBRIGG. BOOK WI. THE wapentake of Morley contains the parishes of Halifax. - Market. Popula- tion. BIRSTALL, BRAD FORD, CALVER LEY, HA LIFAX. The celebrated commercial town of HALIFAx is situate in the liberty of the manor of Wakefield, eight miles from Bradford, and twelve from Keighley. Seated on the western declivity of a gently rising eminence, but surrounded with hills of considerable height, it seems, on approaching it, to stand in a deep valley. The town is about three quarters of a mile in length, from east to west, but the breadth is narrow and exceedingly irregular: it is in general well built, partly of stone, partly of brick. The use of the latter material has been brought into fashion only since about the middle of the last century; and Mr. Watson says, that it was introduced because the nice dressing of stone is attended with great expense. It is difficult to conceive, however, how brick can be the cheaper material, on account of the numerous quarries in the neighbourhood. It seems that the inhabitants of Settle, Skipton, Keighley, Bradford, &c. make a different calculation. -- These towns are almost entirely built of stone, and in the villages scarcely any brick is seen, either in the most elegant mansions, or the humblest cottages. Whatever may be their reason, however, the people of Halifax, though living in a land of stone, seem to have a strong predilection for brick.” The mixture of brick and stone buildings in this town forms a variegated picture, and the great number of small enclosures in the neighbourhood, surrounded with stone walls, in the valleys and on the declivities of the hills, resemble an assemblage of gardens, but the landscape is almost entirely destitute of hedges and wood. Halifax has a good market on Saturday,+ where, beside provisions, &c. con- siderable quantities of woollen cloths of different sorts are sold. Fairs are held on June the 4th, and the first Saturday in November, for horses, horned cattle, sheep and swine. In 1453 there were but thirteen houses in this town, which, in one hundred and twenty years, increased to five hundred and twenty. Camden, when he travelled * Beauties of England and Wales—Yorkshire, p. 743. - # The market is held by prescription, which, through length of time, is now equivalent to a charter. º – | | | - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 235 in these parts, about the year 1580, was informed that the number of inhabitants in this parish was about twelve thousand. Archbishop Grindall, in his letter to Queen CHAP. IX. Elizabeth, during the northern rebellion, also says, that the parish of Halifax was ready to bring into the field, for her service, three or four thousand able men. - In the year 1801, there were one thousand nine hundred and seventy-three houses, occupied by eight thousand eight hundred and eighty-six inhabitants; and in 1821 this town contained twelve thousand six hundred and twenty-eight persons,” inhabiting two thousand seven hundred and thirty-four houses. In 1828 the gross. total of the inhabitants of this extensive parish amounted to one hundred and four thousand two hundred and sixty-nine, an increase of eleven thousand two hundred and nineteen since the official census taken in 1821. - The town of Halifax cannot boast of great antiquity; its name is not found in Domesday book, nor is it mentioned in any ancient record before a grant of its church was made by Earl Warren to the priory of Lewes, in Sussex. The origin of its name has been variously given: Dr. Whitaker supposes it to be half Saxon, half Norman: and that formerly, in the deep valley where the church now stands, was a hermitage, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, the imagined sanctity of which attracted a great concourse of persons in every direction, and that there were four roads by which the pilgrims entered, and hence the name Halifax, or Holyways, for far, in Norman French, is an old plural noun, denoting highways.'t In the civil wars it was garrisoned by the parliamentarians; and to this place Sir Thomas Fairfax-retreated, after the battle of Adwalton Moor. After these wars were over, Halifax was represented in parliament, during the time of the common- wealth and under the protectorate. - The vestiges of antiquity found in this parish are not numerous; but about five and forty years ago a countryman, digging peat on Mixenden Moor, near this town, struck his spade through a black polished stone, resembling a hone or whet-stone; adjoining to this was a most beautiful brass celt, in excellent preservation. These remains were accompanied by four arrow heads of black flint; by a light battle-axe head of a beautiful green pebble; and lastly, by a hollow gouge, or scoop, of hard grey stone, evidently intended for the excavation of canoes and other wooden vessels, The last is unique, no implement for this purpose having ever been discovered * The entire parish contained ninety-two thousand eight hundred and fifty persons. g t Another conjecture is, that in the hermitage dedicated to St. John the Baptist, it was pretended that the face of this saint was kept, and that from thence it derived its name of Halifax, or Holyface. Though sufficiently vague, this etymology carries with it some appearance of probability. At least, it is supported by this circumstance, that the present church is dedicated to St. John the Baptist; and the English word face, was expressed by far, in the Anglo Saxon, which, with a mixture of Danish, was undoubtedly, for a considerable time after the conquest, the popular language of Yorkshire.--Bigland. ** Etymo- logy. History. Antiqui- ties. 236 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Mannſac- tureS., before. Together they seem to have formed the imperishable part of the arms of a British soldier, who, by some other means than in battle, had perished, perhaps two thousand years ago, amongst these wastes, where all remains of the body, together with the handles of the weapons, had long been decomposed, and mixed with the common earth.* - Before the art of manufacturing cloth was introduced into England, the staple trade of the nation was the exportation of wool into foreign countries, especially to Flanders. This defect in the system of English commerce attracted the attention of Edward the Third, who invited cloth-workers from foreign parts, assigned them proper places for their residence, of which York was one of the principal, and granted them very extensive privileges. The exportation of wool was also partly prohibited; but as the cloth manufacture was not sufficiently established to work up the great quantities of wool produced in the kingdom, it was necessary that the raw material should continue to be an article of foreign trade. But in order to support and encourage the home manufacture, a tax of fifty shillings per pack was imposed. Notwithstanding these restrictions, so much wool still continued to be exported, that the annual produce of the customs amounted to a very con- siderable sum. By degrees, however, the art of cloth-making became more generally known and practised, and the extension of the manufactures diminished the export of wool more effectually than could have been done by prohibitions or imposts. The cloth manufacture could no longer be confined to the places first assigned to its conductors, but extended itself to such situations as seemed most favourable for carrying it on with success. Among these, the parish of Halifax was not one of the least inviting, as it produces abundance of coal; and whatever deficiency there may be in any thing necessary to the manufacturing system, is supplied by the circumjacent country. At what time, or from what place, the cloth manufacture was brought to Halifax is uncertain. There are some notices of cloth being manufactured here as early as the second year of Henry V., 1414; but Mr. Wright affirms, that the trade was established here between the years 1443 and 1540. F This is highly probable, as the number of houses increased from thirteen to five hundred and twenty during that period, a circumstance which could not have taken place without some extraordinary impulse. In the reign of Philip and Mary an attempt was made by some great capitalists to monopolize the stock of wool, and the act which was passed on the occasion exhibits the state of the parish and its trade at that time. It recites, “That the parish of Halifax being planted in the great waste and moors, where the ground is not apt to bring forth any corn or good grass, but in, rare places, and by exceeding and great industry of the inhabitants; * Whitaker. - *- + Wiight's Hist. Halifax, p. 7. THE COUNTY OF YORK. * 237 and the same inhabitants altogether do live by cloth-making; and the greatest part of them neither getteth corn, nor is able to keepe a horse to carry wools, nor yet to buy much wool at once, but hath ever used only to repair to the towne of Halifax, &c. and there to buy upon the wool driver, some a stone, some two, and some three or foure, according to their ability, and to carry the same to their houses, some three, or foure, five and six miles off, upon their heads and backes, and so to make and convert the same either into yarne or cloth, and to sell the same, and so to buy more wool of the wool driver, by means of which industry the baren grounds in those parts be now much inhabited, and above five hundred housholds there newly increased within these forty years past, which now are likely to be undone and driven to beggary by reason of the late estatute, 5 Edward VI., that taketh away the wool drivers, so that they cannot now have their wool by such small portions as they were wont to have ; and that also they are not able to keepe any horses whereupon to ride, or fetch their wool further from them in other places, unlesse some remedy may be provided: It is therefore enacted, that it shall be lawfull to any person or persons inhabiting within the parish of Halifax, to buy any wool or wools at such time as the clothiers may buy the same otherwise than by engrossing and forestalling, so that the persons buying the same doe carry, or cause to be carried, the said wools, so bought by them, to the towne of Halifax, and there to sell the same to such poore folkes of that, and other parishes adjoining, as shall worke the same into cloth or yarne, to their knowledge, and not to the rich and wealthy clothier, nor to any other to sell again. Offenders against this act to forfeit double the value of the wool so sold.” Camden, who visited this part of Yorkshire about 1574, has the following description of Halifax and its vicinity: “It is remarkable for the unusual extent of the parish, which has under it eleven chapels, two whereof are parochial, and about twelve thousand men in it. So that the parishioners are wont to say, they can reckon more men in their parish than any kind of animal whatever; whereas, in the most populous and fruitful places of England, elsewhere, one shall find thousands of sheep, but so few men in proportion, that one would think they had given place to sheep and oxen, or were devoured by them. But of all others, nothing is so admirable in this town as the industry of the inhabitants, who, notwithstanding an unprofitable, barren soil, not fit to live on, have so flourished by the cloth trade, which within these seventy years they first fell to, that they are both very rich, and have gained a reputation for it above their neighbours, which confirms the truth of that old observation, that a barren country is a great whet to the industry of the natives, by which alone we find Norinberg in Germany, Venice and Genoa in Italy, and lastly, Limoges in France, have ever been flourishing cities.” * Camd. fol. 709. VOL. II.1. - 3 P (; H A P. IX. 238 - & HISTORY OF B{}()K V i. Piece-hall. *A In the beginning of the eighteenth century the manufacture of woollen stuffs was introduced; shalloons, everlastings, moreens, shags, &c. have been made to great perfection; and within these few years the cotton trade has extended into this neighbourhood. For the convenience of trade the manufacturers erected, at the expense of £12,000, a handsome structure, in the lower part of the town, for the sale of their goods, called the Piece-Hall, which was first opened for sale in 1779. This building is a large quadrangle, occupying the space of ten thousand yards, with a rustic basement story at the lower side, and above, two other stories, fronted by two entire colonnades within, which are spacious walks leading to arched rooms, where the goods of the respective manufacturers, in the unfinished state, are de- posited, and exhibited for sale to the merchants, every Saturday, from ten o'clock to Church. twelve. . This structure, which unites elegance, convenience and security, contains three hundred and fifteen separate rooms, and has the merit of being proof both against fire and thieves. With respect to the first, no part of the building can be consumed but the roof; and for the latter, had the portable goods of the foresters of Hardwick been so collected, and so enclosed within stately walls, their axe might have rusted, and their gibbet have rotted down, in the interval between two executions. - . - During the latter part of the eighteenth and beginning of the nineteenth century, the number of the population rapidly increased in consequence of the flourishing state of the woollen-trade, which has extended itself into the most remote and sequestered parts of the parish, and planted new colonies in places formerly uninhabited and regarded as almost uninhabitable. The benefice of Halifax is a vicarage, and is valued in the Liber regis at £84. 13s. 6; d. Patron, the king. The church stands near the east end of the town, the chancel directly fronting the entrance from Wakefield. It is a large structure of pointed architecture, one hundred and ninety-two feet in length, and above sixty in breadth within the walls. The precise era of its erection cannot be ascertained. It is evident that there was no church here at the time of the Conqueror's survey; for the Domesday book informs us that in the manor of Wakefield, of which Halifax was a part, there were only two churches, and it is clear that these were at Wakefield and Sandal. Internal as well as external evidence fixes the erection of it in the reign of Henry VI. Since that time it has been frequently re-edified, and the chancel seems to have been an addition to the original fabric. The steeple, which was built by the munificence of the families of Lacy and Saville, the founders of the parish of Halifax, was begun in the year 1450; and this tower, which is well proportioned, is said to be one hundred and seventeen feet in height from the ground to the summit of the pinnacles. * ſaernaes ſezºnitº astro paetae ſoggiºrenaerenºs （oſaevaeuon trīſLaenaeº，- | * |-|- |- -ºſº， -|- º JEIQ)（[Q]ſ[0)*№.© SIKIO)O（II¿TIĶIJĀ ĢISSººſºſſºſ №tºº：№vaeaea traer THE COUNTY OF YORK. 239 Within the church are two chapels, one on the north side, the other on the south: 9HAP.1%. the former of these, called Rokeby’s chapel, which is eleven yards and a quarter in - length, and five yards and a quarter in breadth, was erected in consequence of the will of Dr. William Rokeby, vicar of Halifax, and afterwards archbishop of Dublin, who died November 29, 1521, and ordered that his bowels and heart should be buried in the choir of this church, and his body in the new chapel at Sandal. By this testament he also ordered this chapel to be erected and used as a chantry. The chapel on the south, side of the church is somewhat above sixteen yards and a half in length, and about five yards and a quarter broad. All that is known of it is from an inscription, which says, that Robert Holdsworth, LL.D. the twelfth vicar, built it in the year 1554 at his own expense.* - - The font is an octagonal basin, with a beautiful spiral cove, sixteen feet in Font. height, richly carved, with crockets, &c. Near this is the full-length effigy of a man holding the poor box in his hands. In the south aisle of the nave is an elegant marble monument by Westmacott, Monu. with emblematic sculpture, to J. M. Rawson, eldest son of Sir John Rawson, who ments. perished with eighteen seamen in Simon's Bay, Cape of Good Hope, by the swamping of the pinnace of H. M. S. Owen Glendower, on March 10, 1826, aged nineteen. In the same aisle is a beautiful tablet, with a basso-relievo of the Good Samaritan, by the same sculptor, to W. Rawson, Esq. who died August 25, 1828; aged seventy-nine. - - - - - . - In the north aisle of the chancel is a marble tablet to the Rev. S. Knight, M.A. vicar of Trinity church, and afterwards vicar of this parish, who died January 7, 1827, aged sixty-eight. On the south side of the altar is an elegant marble monu- ment by Westmacott to H. W. Coulthurst, D.D. who died December 11, 1817, aged sixty-four. - 2 - - - - 's - The parish or vicarage of Halifax is said to be larger than the whole county of Rutland. In its extent it is not less than seventeen miles from east to west, and about eleven miles on an average from north to south, and contains twenty-six townships and hamlets. Besides the vicarage church of Halifax there are in the parish several chapels, to which the vicar of Halifax appoints the curates. The chapels of Elland and Heptonstall, however, enjoy the parochial privileges of burying, &c. - - The benefice of Holy Trinity church is a perpetual curacy not in charge, in the Trinity patronage of the vicar. This church, situate in the upper part of the town, in church. Harrison lane,' is a neat edifice of stone, erected under the sanction of an act of parliament, by Dr. Coulthurst, the late worthy vicar. It is a neat edifice, adorned * See Watson's Hist. Halifax, p. 331. 240 - HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Christ church. - chapels. with Ionic pilasters, &c., and has a good tower and cupola at the west end. The architect was J. Oates, Esq. * - -> - Christ church, King's cross, is a small but neat edifice, erected a few years ago. Another church is in course of erection at North parade; it will be in the pseudo-gothic style, with turrets at the west end, and is from a design by Mr. Oates. The contract amounts to £4,122 11s. The church will hold one thousand two hundred and six persons. - - The chapels belonging to the different denominations of dissenters are very numerous. The Independents have a very handsome chapel of red brick in the Charities. Alms- houses. Schools." Gaol. Grammar school. square, and a smaller edifice in Wade street; the Particular Baptists’ chapel is situate in Pellon lane, and the General Baptists’ on Haley hill. The Unitarian chapel is at Northgate end, the Friends’ meeting house at Ward's end, and the Catholic chapel at Woolshops. The Wesleyan Methodists hº chapels, both Broad street; the respectable edifices—one is in South parade, and the other f Methodist new connexion have a chapel in North parade. The Primitive Methodists’ chapel is in Cabbage lane. Among the charities deserving notice are the following:— - In 1642, Nathaniel Waterhouse, by will, founded an alms-house in this town for twelve poor widows, and a blue coat hospital for twenty poor children. He also bequeathed £60 per annum to the curates of the twelve chapels within the vicarage; a legacy to the free school at 'Skircoats, founded by Queen Elizabeth, &c.—These bequests, according to returns published by order of Parliament, made in 1786, amounted to £475. 16s. 6d. per annum. - 4 In 1610, Ellen Hopkinson and Jane Crowther built, in their life-times, alms- houses, containing eighteen rooms, for as thany poor widows, and two rooms for a schoolmaster, which they endowed with money and tenements; the annual produce, in 1787, was £13. These alms-houses being rebuilt, were made to contain twenty- four rooms, twenty of which are for twenty widows, and three for the master. - In Halifax there are two national schools, on the plans of Dr. Bell and Mr. Lancaster; public baths, assembly rooms, erected about seven years ago; a theatre, erected in 1786; mechanics’ institution, &c. Here is also a benevolent society for clothing the sick and destitute; and to the public foundations already noticed, we may add that beneficent establishment, the dispensary, instituted Oct. 3, 1807, which is supported by voluntary subscriptions. . . . . The lord of the manor (duke of Leeds) has here a gaol for the imprisonment of debtors, within the manor of Wakefield, and in this gaol is the gibbetzaxe of the well-knºwn “Halifax Gibbet Law.” - The free grammar school at Skircoats, in this parish, was founded by charter, granted by Queen Elizabeth on the 15th of February, 1585, at the “humble suit -- THE COUNTY OF YORK. , , 24l of the inhabitants of the parish and vicarage of Halifax.” On Aug. 14, 1598, the earl of Shrewsbury, Edward Saville, Esq. and Sir George Saville, Knight, gave by deed the present school-house and six acres of land adjoining. Various other donations were made at different times. This school is open indefinitely to the children of the parish, free of expense, for learning the classics only. There are generally forty or fifty extra-parochial scholars. Among the eminent men educated at this school may be noticed, John Milner, B.D., Dr. Cyril Jackson, dean of Christchurch, and William Jackson, his brother, bishop of Oxford. | Some of the streets are very narrow, with ancient timber mansions on each side. Crown street is a tolerable specimen of the early style of street architecture, to be found in Halifax. . - The gibbet law forms a very peculiar feature in the history of Halifax. “The inhabitants within the forest of Hardwick had a custom, from time immemorial, that if a felon were taken within their liberty, with goods stolen out, or within the liberty of the said forest, either hand-habend, back-berand, or confessand, any commodity of the value of thirteen pence halfpenny, he should, after three markets, or meeting days, within the town of Halifax, next after such his apprehension, and being condemned, be taken to the gibbet, and have his head cut off from his body.” But the felon was to be publicly and deliberately tried by the frith-burghers within the said liberty, which liberty comprised the townships and hamlets of Halifax, Oven- CHA P. IX, Gibbet law. den, Illingworth, Mixenden, Bradshaw, Skircoat, Warley, Sowerby, Rishworth, Luddenden, Midgley, Erringden, Heptonstall, Rottenstall, Stansfield, Cross-stone, and Langfield, to which Wright, in his Antiquities of Halifax,t adds Wadsworth, because this, as well as all the above-named places, was included within the estates of the earls of Warren, and one of the berewics belonging to the manor of Wake- field, to which manor, with its appendages, this power was originally given. And for the same reason Mr. Watson thinks that some other parts of this vast lordship which lie in the neighbourhood of Halifax, such as Northouram and Rastrick, should have been taken into the list; but we do not find any authority to support his opinion, which therefore rests solely on the basis of probability. From com- paring this list with the former enumeration of townships and hamlets, it will be readily perceived, that the forest of Hardwick, which appears to be the same with the forest of Sowerby, lay nearly, although not exactly, within the same precincts as the present parish of Halifax. The process of the gibbet law was as follows. Out of the most wealthy persons, and those of the greatest répute for integrity and understanding in the liberty, a certain number were selected for the trial of the offenders; for, when a felon was * Bentley's Halifax and its Gibbet Law, p. 24, &c. ...+ P. 82. WOL. III. - - - 3 Q 242 - HISTORY OF Book VI. apprehended, he was immediately brought before the lord's bailiff at Halifax, who, by virtue of the authority granted him from the lord of the manor of Wakefield, under the seal of that manor, kept a common gaol in the town, had the custody of the axe, and was the legal executioner. On receipt of the prisoner, the bailiff issued out his summons to the constables of four several towns within the precincts of the liberty, to require four frith-burghers within each town to appear before him on a certain day, to examine into the truth of the charge. At the time of appearance, the accuser and the accused were confronted before them, the thing stolen was produced, and the prisoner acquitted or condemned according to the evidence, without any oath being administered. If the party accused was acquitted, he was instantly liberated on paying his fees; if condemned, he was either immediately executed, if it was the principal market-day, or kept till then, if it was not, and in the mean while set in the stocks on the less meeting days, with the stolen goods on his back, if portable; or if not, they were placed before him. But the executions always took place on the great market-day, in order to strike greater terror into the neighbourhood. And so strict was this customary law, that whoever within the liberty had any thing stolen, and not only discovered the thief, but secured the goods, could not receive them back without prosecuting the delinquent, but was obliged to bring him, with the stolen property, to the chief bailiff at Halifax, and to carry on the prosecution. Without this procedure, he both forfeited the goods to the lord of the manor, and was liable to be accused of theft-bote* for his private connivance and agreement with the felon. After every execution, also, it appears, that the coroners for the county, or some of them, were obliged to repair to the town of Halifax, and there summon a jury of twelve men, sometimes the same persons who condemned the felon, and administer an oath to them to give in a true and precise verdict, relating to the fact for which he was executed, in order that a record might be made of it in the crown office.* This custom has obtained the distinguishing appellation of Halifax law. It attracted the attention of Camden and his commentators, and is amply explained by - Bentley, Wright, and Watson. It is first to be observed, that the felon was liable to suffer, if he was taken within the liberty or precincts of Hardwick. This refers us directly to the privileges of infangtheſe and outfangtheſe, the origin of which is of great antiquity. These privileges are mentioned in the laws of Edward the Confessor, which William the Norman afterwards confirmed, in the 21st chapter “De Baronibus, qui suas habent curias et consuetudines”—concerning the barons * “Theft-bote is the receiving of a man's goods again from a thief, after stolen, or other amends not to prosecute the felon, and to the intent the thief may escape ; which is an offence punishable with fine and imprisonment.”—Williams's Lan, Dict. + Beauties of England and Wales—Yorkshire. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 243 who have their courts of law and customs: In this article there is an express mention of infangthefe and outfangtheſe, which is thus explained: ** Justitia cognoscentis latronis sua est, de homine suo, si captus fuerit super terram suam.” —he has the right of taking cognizance of felony, in respect of his own vassals, if the felon be taken within his own manor. But here is nothing said “ de homine extraneo,” or such as did not belong to the manor whom the lord had power to execute by the privilege of outfangtheſe, if taken as a thief within his manor, let the robbery have been committed wherever it might. This power, however, was undoubtedly exercised at Halifax, as appears in the following entries in the register:- - - - “Quidam extraneus capitalem subiit sententiam, 1° Jan. 1542.” A certain stranger suffered capital punishment, Jan. 1, 1542; and “Richard Sharp, and John Learoyd, beheaded the 5th day of March, 1568, for a robbery done in Lancashire.” - . . At this town it appears that the felon was to be taken within the liberty, and that if he escaped out of it, even after condemnation, he could not be brought back to be executed; but if ever he returned into it again, and were taken, he was liable to suffer, as was the case of a person named Lacy, who, after escaping, remained seven years out of the liberty, but, venturing to come back, was beheaded on the former verdict, in the year 1623. In the next place, the fact was to be proved in the clearest manner: the offender was to be taken either hand-habend, or back- berand, i.e. having the stolen goods either in his hand or bearing them on his back, or lastly confessand, confessing that he took them. This is what the writers on ancient laws denominate “furtum manifestum,” and perhaps the abhorrence which our ancestors had of that crime, might give rise to the ample power that was so long left to the barons of punishing offenders of this description; for nothing surely could more effectually deter from the practice of theft, than capital punishment inflicted in this summary way, without much trouble or expense to the prosecutors. But it must, however, be remarked, that there was a great defect in this law; for unless the felon was taken with the stolen goods in his actual possession, which would seldom be the case, he could, by pleading not guilty, avoid conviction; and the person injured had no further redress. - r The value of the goods was to amount to thirteen pence halfpenny, or more ; and Dr. Grey seems to think, that thirteen pence halfpenny may have been called hangman's wages, in allusion to the Halifax law.” Mr. Watson also supposes that this sum of money might be given, at this place, as a gratuity to the executioner. When the condemned felon was brought to the gibbet, which stood a little way out of the town at the west end, the bailiff, the person who had found the verdict, * Notes on Hudibras, vol. ii. p. 288. CHAP. IX. 244 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. and the attending clergyman, placed themselves on the scaffold with the prisoner.” The fourth psalm was then played round the scaffold on the bagpipes, after which the minister prayed with the prisonerºtiñº he received the fatal stroke. The execution was performed by means of an engine, similar to the guillotine erected in France. It consisted of two upright posts, or pieces of timber, fifteen feet high, joined at the top by a transverse beam: within these was a square block of wood of the length of four feet and a half, which moved up and down between the uprights by means of grooves made for that purpose: to the lower end of this sliding-block was fastened an iron axe, of the weight of seven pounds twelve ounces. The axe, thus fixed, was drawn up to the top by a cord and pulley. . At the end of the cord was a pin, which, being fixed to the block, kept it suspended till the moment of execution, when, by pulling out the pin, or cutting the cord, it was suffered to fall, and the criminal's head was instantly severed from his body. The mode of this proceeding has been differently described. Harrison says, that every person present took hold of the rope, or at least stretched forth his arm as near to it as he could, in token of his approbation, and that the pin was pulled out in this manner; but if the offender was condemned for stealing an ox, sheep, horse, &c. the end of the rope was fastened to the beast, which, being driven, pulled out the pin. Camden informs us, that if this was not performed by a beast, the bailiff, or his servant, cut the rope; with which Bentley's representation of the matter agrees.' From these descriptions of the Halifax gibbet, it evidently appears, that the French guillotine is not, as has been vulgarly believed, a recent invention. The Halifax engine was as nearly as possible of the same construction, and its operation was equally certain and instantaneous. | In regard to the antiquity of this custom at Halifax, it seems to have been nearly coeval with the town itself. It has already been observed, that in the Domesday book no mention is made of Halifax, and if it existed at that time it must have been only an inconsiderable place. Mr. Watson, therefore, with just probability, * Bentley's Halifax and Gibbet Law, p. 67. + Wright's Hist. Halifax, p. 202. † Harrison's Descrip. of England, vol. i. p. 185. - e § Camd. Brit. Gibson's edit. fol. Bentley's Halifax and Gibbet Law. In the time of both Harrison and Camden these executions were common at Halifax. - | | “It appears from a plate in an edition of Hollinshead's Chronicle, printed in 1577, that beheading criminals by a machine something like that at Halifax was practised in some other parts of England.”— Watson's Hist. p. 227. “The earl of Morton, regent of Scotland, passing through Halifax, and happening to see one of these executions, caused a model to be taken, and carried it into his own country, where it remained many years before it was made use of, and obtained the name of the Maiden, till that nobleman suffered by it himself, June 2, 1581. The remains of this singular machine may yet be seen in the parliament-house at Edinburgh. The origin of this custom cannot be traced, but it was by no means peculiar to this place.”—Gent. Mag. for April, 1793. º - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 245 supposes that the gibbet law had its beginning about the time that the manor of Wakefield, which included the present parish of Halifax, was bestowed on the Earl of Warren. “In the reign of Edward I. at the pleas of assizes and jurats, John earl of Warren and Surry, answering to a writ of quo warranto,” said, that he claimed gallows at Coningsburgh and Wakefield, and the power of doing what belonged to a gallows in all his lands and fees, and that he and his ancestors had used the same from time immemorial; to which it was answered, on the part of the king, that the aforesaid liberties belonged merely to the crown, and that no long seisin or prescription of time ought to prejudice the king, and that the earl had no special warrant for the said liberties, therefore judgment was desired, if the seisin could be to the said earl a sufficient warrant.”* From hence it is evident, that even about the year 1280, no charter of these privileges could be produced, but the prescriptive right was deemed good, for upon the inquisition afterwards taken, it does not appear that any thing was found for the king. It seems to have been universally agreed that theft was the only thing cognizable in this court, but, as Mr. Watson informs us, in a MS. in the Harleian collection in the British Museum, under the title of Halifax, is the following entry:- “The court of the countess, held 30th January, 33 Edward III, it is found by inquisition, that if any tenant of this lordship of Halifax be beheaded for theft, or other cause, that the heirs of the same tenant ought not to lose their inheritance,” &c. “The difficulty,” says Mr. Watson, “here is, how to account for their beheading for other causes than theft, at the above period, and yet no traces of this power remain in later times. This happened either through disuse, or some restraint put upon the power by the crown; for in 1359, a few months after the date of the above inquisition, the said countess died, and the manor came to the crown in the person of Edward IV.1 as son of Richard, duke of York, whose right it was, and who was killed at Wakefield fight. Now this Edward, if it was not done before, might think proper to reduce the excessive power of the barons, which seemed to infringe too much upon the royal prerogative, if they could put to death for other causes than theft; and this he might do without giving offence to any one, for the power which had gone out from the crown was returned to it again. And, as I take this to be the very period when trade made its first appearance here, it is not improbable but so much of the old proceedings might, at the suit of the tenants, be allowed as related to theft, in order to encourage the woollen manufactory, then in its infancy. But it seems they were not to take cognizance of any sort of theft but such as was proved in the clearest manner, and where the thing stolen was of * Watson's Hist. Halifax, p. 224, 225 . + No. 797. # Watson, by mistake, says Edward III. and his account is here extremely obscure. Richard, Duke of York, was killed at the battle of Wakefield, A. D. 1460. * WOL. III. - - 3 R CHAP. IX. 246 - HISTORY OF such a determined value, that the lives of the king's copyholders and others might not be too much at the mercy of ignorant or ill-designing men, as perhaps it might be found they had long enough been.” - - It is a circumstance particularly worthy of remark, that this power of the barons to inflict capital punishment was kept up at Halifax a considerable time after it had ceased in every other part of the kingdom. This, however, seems to have been merely accidental. The privilege was not taken away from any place by act of parliament, but fell by degrees, in consequence of the alteration of circumstances; for as the “tenures in capite” ceased, the liberties annexed to them became extinct. But as Halifax was a place of so much trade, this custom, which was calculated to strike terror into thieves, was found to be so great a safeguard to the property of the manufacturers, that they kept it up as long as they dared. And very probably it would not have ceased when it did, if the bailiff had not been threatened after the last execution that he should be called to a public account, if the like were again attempted. It seems that theft was exceedingly common in this neighbourhood, and also that the law was rigidly executed; for the register books exhibit a list of forty-nine persons beheaded at Halifax gibbet between the 20th day of March, 1541, and the 30th of April, 1650. Of these, five were executed in the six last years of Henry VIII., twenty-five in the reign of Elizabeth, seven in the reign of James I., ten in that of Charles I., and two during the interregnum. The list of executions, as Mr. Watson observes, is so formidable, that there is no reason to wonder at the proverbial petition of thieves and vagabonds, “From Hell, Hull, and Halifax, good Lord deliver us.” - - - r ~ Of the men of note born in Halifax, whose names are on record, we find the following;-Henry Briggs, an eminent mathematician, was born in 1556, and educated at St. John's college, Cambridge, where he was fellow in 1588. In 1596, he was chosen Gresham professor of geometry, which place he resigned in 1620, on being appointed Savilian professor at Oxford, where he died in 1630. He was the first improver of logarithms after Napier, the original inventor, whom he visited in Scotland, and published, in 1624, a work of stupendous labour, entitled Arith. metica Logarithmica, containing logarithms of thirty thousand natural numbers. He also wrote some other valuable books on mathematical subjects.t-Joseph Brookbank, born in 1612, son of George Brookbank, of Halifax, was entered at Brazennose college in 1632, took a degree in arts, went into orders, and had a curacy. He founded a school at Elland. - BOOK WI. Eminent natives. * Hull was formerly noted for the strictness of its police ; and the walls and fortifications were great impediments to escape. - - - + Biog. Dict. - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 247 In this parish are the following chapelries and townships:— - Barkisland, a very extensive and populous township, containing two thousand two hundred and twenty-four inhabitants. A free school was founded here in 1657, by Sarah Gledhill, and there are three Sunday-schools in which upwards of two hundred children receive instruction. The old hall, now occupied as a farm house, appears to have been built about the time of Charles I. It now belongs to the Bold family, of Bold hall, Lancashire. In this township is a Druidical circle of stones, called Wolf-fold. * At Ripponden, in this township, is a chapel; it is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Bartholomew, and is valued in the return to parliament at £141. 10s. Patron, the vicar of Halifax. This chapel is of considerable antiquity, and was rebuilt in 1610, and afterwards renewed in 1737. The minister's manse, a very good square house, is the work of the industrious and faithful antiquary, Mr. Watson, the historian of this parish, then minister of the place, and afterwards rector of Stockport." Ripponden is CHAP. IX. Barkis- land. Rippon- den. Chapel. situate upon the Riburn, and is memorable on account of the immense flood that took place on the sudden swelling of the river, on the 18th of May, 1722, called the Ripponden flood, which commenced between the hours of three and five in the afternoon; the water rose seven yards perpendicular, and bore down, in its course, several bridges, mills, and a number of houses; many persons lost their lives on this melancholy occasion. The church at Ripponden was very much damaged, part of the church-yard washed away, the graves laid open, and a coffin was lodged in a tree at a considerable distance. - - - * , , The chapelry of Elland with Greetland is situate on the high road from Halifax to Huddersfield. It contains a population of five thousand and eighty-eight. The chapel is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Mary, and valued in the parliamentary returns at £130. 13s. It is in the patronage of the vicar of Halifax. The chapel has a nave, chancel, and aisle, with a tower at the west end. There are chapels here for both the new and old connexion of Wesleyans, Independents, Baptists, and Unitarians. - This ancient village is pleasantly situate on the right bank of the river Calder, three miles from Halifax. The old hall, on the opposite side of the Calder, is in the same township, and here for many ages resided the knightly family of the Ellands, which became extinct in consequence of a deadly quarrel with the * In the church-yard are several tomb-stones cut with great taste and neatness, by the celebrated John Collier, who, under the fictitious name of Tim Bobbin, was the author of the well-known facetious work, “The Lancashire Dialect.” : + Whitaker. Elland. 248 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Beaumonts, in the reign of Edward III. Of the tragical scenes which produced this catastrophe, an ancient ballad, aided by tradition and confirmed by some circumstances of indisputable authority, affords the following history:—Sir John Elland, instigated by some unexplained causes of hostility, raised a body of his friends and tenantry, and placing himself at their head, sallied forth by night from the “ manor hall,” and attacked and slew Sir Hugh of Quarmby, Sir John Lock- wood, of Lockwood, and Sir Robert Beaumont, of Crossland, the latter of whom was torn from his wife and beheaded in the hall of his own house, and all of them were murdered in the presence of their families. On the perpetration of these sanguinary murders, the younger branches of the Beaumonts, the Quarmbys, and the Lockwoods fled into Lancashire, and found an asylum under the roofs of the Towneleys and the Breretons. In that age the police of the country was unable to cope with a powerful knight and his subservient dependents, and it was not till the eldest sons of the three outraged families had grown up to manhood that retribution was sought and obtained for the blood of their parents. For this purpose the three young men placed themselves in a wood, at Cromwell-bottom, and as Sir John Elland was returning from Raistrick, they met him on a hill beneath Brookfoot and slew him, after which they retired into Furness Fells, in Lancashire, where they remained for a considerable time. Not satisfied, however, with this act of justice, they determined to extirpate the name of Elland, with which sanguinary intention they placed themselves in a mill, near which the young knight, with his lady and their son, had to pass to the church. On the approach of the family, over the dam, the murderers rushed forth and shot an arrow through the head of the father, and wounded his only child so desperately, that he died soon after in Elland hall. The name of Elland now became extinct, and the daughter of Sir John, to whom the estates and manor descended, having contracted marriage with one of the Saviles, the property passed into that family, in whose possession it remains to the present day. The murder of the young knight and his infant son roused the town of Elland to arms, and they advanced, in a considerable number, to punish the murderers. For some time Beaumont, Quarmby, and Lockwood, stood their ground, and defended themselves with distinguished valour against the unequal numbers by which they were assailed; but being at length over-powered, Quarmby fell dead on the field, and his comrades only escaped the same fate by the fleetness of their horses. Of the old hall there are no remains, and the present house is the seat of F. T. Lambert, Esq. - _* Elland, at this time, was a market town, under a charter granted by Edward II. in the tenth year of his reign. For some time it held a rivalship with Halifax, but for many ages the market has been discontinued, and it is now distinguished only as the second place in that extensive parish. . THE COUNTY OF YORK. 249 At Greetland, in this township, was dug up a votive altar, as it seems, to the tutelar god of the city of the Brigantes, inscribed as follows: Dv1 c1 BRIG - . On the Reverse. ET NW M G G. - T. AVR AvRELIAN - ANTONINO vs DD PR9 se º * III, ET GET COSS. ET SWIS S. M. A. G.S. To the god of the city of the Brigantes, and to the deities of the emperors, Titus Aurelius Aurelianus hath dedicated this in behalf of himself and his. The inscription on the other side shows the time when the altar was set up, that is, when Antoninus was consul the third time with Geta.” - Erringden is an extensive township, with a population of fourteen hundred and seventy-one persons: - - & A chapel was built at Marshaw Bridge in 1814, and consecrated by the present archbishop of York, October, 1815. It is entitled the Chapel of St. John, in the Wilderness, to which the vicar of Halifax has the right of presentation, and is situate in a remote and obscure valley, called Turvin, not devoid of romantic beauty, • º - of the place, about half a century ago, rendered this valley, and the adjoining wilds, unhappily notorious, and at length attracted the notice of government: for here the current gold coin of England and Portugal was clipped and defaced, while the clippings and filings, during several years, were melted down and restruck in dies. They had no screw-presses for the purpose, but fixed their dies in heavy blocks. The impression was produced by the stroke of sledge hammers, which were nightly heard on every side, no one daring, for some time, to interrupt so powerful and desperate a gang. At length, the atrocious murder of a poor excise- man, who had boldly done his duty in attempting to bring some of the parties to justice, produced a general alarm; two of the murderers, and, afterwards a third, were convicted and executed...f. CHAP. IX. Greetland. The native propensity of the inhabitants, and the almost inaccessible nature Firby has three hundred and forty-five inhabitants. The hall is the seat of Fixby. Thomas Thornhill, Esq. . - The chapelry of Heptonstall is very extensive, having a population of four thousand five hundred and forty-three persons. The church is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Thomas à Becket, and valued at £132 per annum. It is in the patronage of the vicar of Halifax. Here is a free grammar school, founded by Charles Greenwood, clerk, rector of Thornhill, who by will, dated July 14, 1642, endowed it with lands and tene- * Camden. + Whitaker's Loidis and Elmete. WOL. III, 3's Hepton- stall. Grammar- school. 250 sł HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Park. Hipper- holme. ments, then of the annual value of £20. The present, rental is about £70 per annum. He also left rents for the founding of two fellowships and two scholarships in University college, Oxford, of which he had been fellow; but they were un- fortunately lost by the mismanagement of his executors.” - In a skirmish betwixt the cavaliers and the parliamentarians, during the civil wars of Charles I., part of this town was burnt to the ground. - Heptonstall park, or more properly speaking, Erringden park, was appurtenant to the forest of Sowerbyshire, or Hardwick, and probably enclosed by one of the earls of Warren. This once famous park, which held sheep as well as deer, was disparked in the twenty-seventh of Henry VI. and demised to tenants at rents amounting altogether to £24 per annum. It is completely surrounded by the township of Sowerby, now constitutes the township of Erringden, and forms a part of the parochial chapelry of Heptonstall.f. Hipperholme with Brigghouse has a population of three thousand nine hundred and thirty-six persons. - . . . Here is a free-school, founded by Matthew Broadley, Esq. of London; who, by his will, dated the 15th of October, 1647, gave to his brother Isaac Broadley, of Halifax, certain tenements, &c. within the township of Hipperholme, towards the maintenance of a free-school there: the school received a further augmentation, in 1671, from Samuel Sunderland, Esq. of Harden, near Bingley. The present Winter- edge house. rental is £114 per annum.j: - - - Brigghouse, in this township, is the residence of the Misses Walker. This is a village of some antiquity, where once a family of that name lived. In Oliver Heywood's Register is the following entry:-" Oct. 28, 1684, Capt. Taylor's wife, of Brighouse, buried in her garden, with her head upwards, standing upright, by her husband, daughter, &c. Quakers.”$ { A new church, from the designs of Mr. Hamerton, is in course of erection at this place. The contract amounts to £3,514. 12s. 6d. and it will hold one thousand one hundred and thirty persons. Winteredge house appears, at a remote period, to have been of some conse- quence, although in Watson's time it was “not the residence of any gentleman.” Under the garden-house is the following inscription:— - “Garrulus insano crucietur mundus amore, Dum mea placide vita serena placet.” Over the door of the garden-house, Meliora spero.' Still higher over the window, “Contra vim mortis, non est medicamen in hortis.” And in the said garden- • Watson's Halifax, . + Carlisle’s Grammar school. # Whitaker. * . - § Watson's Hist. of Halifax. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 251 house, in an outbuilding, called the workhouse, and in the kitchen are a variety of CHAP. IX. figures in stained glass, with appropriate mottoes.* - * * * Winteredge was held, in the forty-second of Elizabeth, of the crown in fee, by Samuel Saltonstall, of Huntwike, and has lately been, says Mr. Watson, in the pos- session of the Priestleys. ‘. . . . . . . . . . . . . The township of Langfield (population, two thousand and sixty-nine) originally belonged to the Langfields, and passed into the family of the Hamertons about the end of the reign of Edward III. In the time of Henry VIII. it was, by the attainder of Sir Stephen Hamerton, forfeited to the crown. . . . . . . . . On the highest point of this widely extended township, and consequently in one of the most commanding parts of the country, at a place called Stoodley Pike, a lofty column has been erected to the Duke of Wellington, which forms a con- spicuous object, not only to the valley beneath, but also to a large extent of surrounding country. - - . Midgeley has a population of two thousand two hundred and seven. The ancient & * - mansion of their arrars here has been, for many years, used as a seminary for young gentlemen, and was, for nearly half a century, conducted by the late Dr. Fawcett, and at present by his son. . " . . . . At this place, in all probability, was born Robert Farrar, an English martyr, and Bishop of St. David's, in the sixteenth century. He became a canon regular, of the order of St. Austin, but in what priory or abbey is uncertain, and studied at Cambridge and Oxford; but, on embracing the doctrines of the reformation, he was made chaplain to Archbishop Cranmer, after whose example he took a wife. In 1548 he was consecrated bishop of St. David's, but not being able to pay the first-fruits and tenths, he was imprisoned. In the reign of Mary he was brought before Gardiner, on a charge of heresy, and condemned to the flames; which sentence was executed at Caermarthen, March 30, 1555,t Norland is a small township, the population amounting to one thousand six hun- dred and sixty-five persons. - - On the edge of Norland moor, amongst a large ridge of rocks, is a very ponderous stone, which projects over the side of the hill, and has a very uncommon appearance; it is called the Lad-stone, but for what reason no inhabitant of the place can tell: Mr. Watson observes, that if the name is British, it may come from Llad, to kill or slay, and might be the place for the execution of criminals, in the time of the Druids, who were extremely lavish of human blood; not only criminals, captives, and strangers were slain at their sacrifices, but their very disciples were put to death, without mercy, if they were wilfully tardy in coming to their assemblies. - - - * Watson's Hist. of Halifax, + Biog. Dict. Watson's Halifax. Fox, Langfield. Midgeley. Norland. Lad-stone, 252 History of BOOK VJ. Ovenden. North and South Ouram. Chapel. Rastrick. Rishworth The township of Ovenden is very populous, containing, according to the census of 1821, six thousand three hundred and sixty inhabitants. One Anthony Bentley, of this place, gent., paid, in 1630, £10 composition money for not receiving the order of knighthood at the coronation of Charles I. North Ouram has six thousand eight hundred and forty-one, and South Ouram four thousand two hundred and fifty-six inhabitants. The hall at the former village is the residence of J. F. Dyson, Esq. A neat chapel was built and consecrated, in 1819, at South Ouram. - - A mineral water has been discovered at Horly green, on which a pamphlet, was written by Dr. Garnet. It appears, from his experiments, to contain a large portion of vitriolated iron, besides alum, selenite, and ochre; and is supposed, by him, to be the strongest chalybeate water ever known.” - Chapel-le-grove, Briers-chapel, or St. Ann’s-in-the grove, in this township, is a perpetual curacy, valued at £123. It is in the gift of the vicar of the parish. The chapel, distinguished by the appellation of the three names as above, is dedicated to St. Ann, and appears to have been built in the twenty-first year of Henry the eighth, by John Lacy, of Cromwellbottam, Esq. and his neighbours; which Mr. Watson observes may account for its being placed at so inconvenient a place, “being one mile from South Ouram, and near no considerable number of houses.” - * The chapelry of Rastrick has two thousand seven hundred and ninety-six inhabitants. The church is a perpetuak curacy, valued at £118. 7s. It is in the patronage of the vicar of Halifax. Here was a chapel, as early as 1411, which was taken down and handsomely rebuilt, about six-and-thirty years ago. - - Rishworth has one thousand five hundred and eighty-eight inhabitants. At this place is a group of stones, laid, seemingly, one above another, to the height of several yards, and called the Rocking stone. Tradition says, that it once would rock, but that quality is lost. The form of it is not very unlike the Wring- cheese, in Cornwall, described by Borlase, and perhaps might serve for the same purposes."f The township of Shelf contains one thousand nine hundred and ninety-eight persons. It is so called from being in a shelving situation. Skircoat is an extensive township, the population, in 1821, amounting to three thousand three hundred and twenty-three persons. * Here is a free grammar-school, usually called the Halifax school, founded by charter of Queen Elizabeth, dated Feb. 15, 1585. The management of this esta- blishment is vested in governors, and the classics only are taught. - Shelf. Skircoat. * Aikin's Manchester. + Watson’s Halifax. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 253 Woodhouse hall is in the township of Skircoat and parish of Halifax; four miles from Halifax and ten from Huddersfield. Woodhouse is a very ancient situation, as appears from its name. The present building has the date 1580. It was purchased for £1800 by Simon Sterne, third son of Dr. Richard Sterne, arch- bishop of York. Sterne, author of Tristram Shandy, was of this family. The chapelry of Sowerby is very extensive, containing six thousand eight hundred and ninety inhabitants. The chapel, a meat edifice, built in 1763, is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Peter, and valued in the parliamentary returns at £78. Patron, the vicar of Halifax. The chapel has a chancel; within it is a statue of Archbishop Tillotson, erected in compliance with the will of his surviving grand- niece, upwards of thirty years ago. The archbishop was born at Haugh-end, in this township. - - - - - At Sowerby was once a castle, the foundation of which may yet be seen in a field near the top of the town, adjoining to which is a piece of ground, called the Hell croft, where, no doubt, the dead were buried. It is not known at what time it was built, but it is clear, however, that during the possessions of the earls of Warren there was a castle here, and that they frequently resorted hither for the diversions of hunting, hawking, &c. This was conveyed by John, the last earl, to King Edward II. ; but when the fort was suffered to decline does not appear. Sowerby-Bridge, at the junction of the townships of Warley, Skircoat, Sowerby, and Norland, is a perpetual curacy, value, in the parliamentary return, £144. 17s. Patron, the vicar of Halifax. - At Haugh-end, in this township, in October, 1630, the celebrated Dr. John Tillotson, archbishop of Canterbury, first drew breath, a place that will ever be regarded with veneration by all who know how to estimate religion without bigotry, and reason without scepticism. He was the son of a clothier, and received his education at Clare hall, Cambridge, where he was chosen fellow in 1651. He attended Lord Russell on the scaffold, and endeavoured to prevail on him to acknowledge the doctrine of non-resistance, a principle which the doctor had afterwards occasion to renounce. He was zealous against popery in the reign of James II. and, after the revolution, was the confidential friend of William and Mary, who bestowed on him the archbishopric of Canterbury. His sermons were published in ten vols. 8vo, and three vols. folio. He died in 1694, much lamented. Here is the seat of Major Priestley. - & Soyland has three thousand two hundred and forty-two inhabitants. Stainland is a small township, with a population of two thousand eight hundred and fourteen persons. . . - Bradley hall, in the township of Stainland and parish of Halifax (now a farm- house), was once the seat of the Savilles, the principal part of which appears to WOL. III. • 3 T CHAP. IX. Sowerby. Chapel. Castle. Bridge. Haugh- end. Soyland. Stainland. Bradley hall. 254 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Stansfield, Hall. Y. Druidical remains. have been burnt down in 1629; over the gateway are the figures 1577, and the letters I. S. (John Saville); the chapel annexed to it was pulled down in the time of the civil wars. This “chapel being re-edified,” says Mr. Watson, “serves the tenant for a barn; most of the tower also remains, and the whole has the appearance of a church, to such as are travelling between Elland and Ripponden. At this place was born, November 30, 1549, Sir Henry Savile, a man of considerable abilities and extensive learning. His works are numerous, and he left behind him several valuable manuscripts, some of which are now in the Bodleian library. Stansfield (from Stony-field) is a very extensive township, having a population of seven thousand two hundred and seventy-five persons. Stansfield hall is situate in a very beautiful part of the valley of Todmorden. Here lived a family of considerable repute, who took their name from their situation. The original of them was one Wyan Marmions, probably of Norman extraction, and a follower of Earl Warren. - º In Stansfield are many Druidical places of worship, such as Hawkstones, Bride- stones, &c.; the last consists of one upright stone or pillar, called the Bride, whose perpendicular height is about five yards, its diameter in the thickest part about three, and the pedestal about half a yard; near this stood another large stone, called the Groom, which is now thrown down by the country people; and at small distances several others, of different magnitudes, and a vast variety of rocks and stones, so scattered about the common, that at first view the whole looks something like a temple of the serpentine kind, described by the late Dr. Stukely.* The township of Wadsworth has four thousand five hundred and nine inhabitants. Mayroyd, in the township of Wadesworth and parish of Halifax (now a farm house), formerly belonged to the family of Cockcroft, one of whose family paid £15 composition money for not receiving the order of knighthood at the coronation of Charles I. 1630. # * - - Warley has four thousand nine hundred and eighty-two inhabitants. This place is mentioned in Domesday-book as one of the nine berewics belonging to the lord- ship of Wakefield, by the name of Werla. Earl Warren was found to be lord of it at the time of Kirby's inquest. In this family it remained, till the last earl gave it, with the manor of Wakefield, to the crown. At Saltonstall was born, in 1572, Dr. Edmund Deane, brother to the bishop of Ossory, author of “Spadacrene Anglica, or the English Spaw-Fountain,” being a brief treatise on the mineral waters in the forest of Knaresborough; also, “Admi- randa Chymica.” Some of these tracts, Wood says, were written by Samuel Norton. Dr. Deane was of Merton College, Oxford, and died about the beginning of the civil wars, having practised in York, as a physician, till that period, t A Wads- worth. Mayroyd. Warley. Dr. Deane. * Watson's Halifax. 4 + Ibid. f Ibid. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 255 Luddenden, in the townships of Warley and Midgeley, has a small population. The church, which stands in Midgeley, built about 1469, and rebuilt in 1816, is a perpetual curacy, valued, in the return to parliament, at £78. 15s. 4d. Patron, the vicar of Halifax. - - ToDMoRDEN, a market-town in the parishes of Halifax and Rochdale, in Lan- cashire, is nine miles from Rochdale, and twelve from Halifax. A market is held on Thursday, and fairs on Thursday and Friday before Easter, and on September 27 and 28, for horned cattle, pedlary ware, &c. This village, situate in a beautiful vale, is principally in Lancashire, and therefore our notice of it must be brief. A new church has recently been erected in the pointed style of architecture; and the town has been much improved of late years. - - The commercial and populous town of BRADFord,” situate in the liberty of the honour of Pontefract, is eight miles and a half from Halifax, ten miles from Leeds, and about the same distance north-west from Dewsbury. It is pleasantly situate at the junction of three beautiful and extensive valleys. It also possesses the advantage of a navigable canal, which is cut from the Leeds and Liverpool canal, near the village of Shipley, about three miles to the north of Bradford, and pene- trates into the heart of the town, affording excellent convenience for the loading and unloading of boats. Here is a market on Thursday, and fairs on the 18th and 19th of June, and on the 9th and 10th of December, for horses, horned cattle, pigs, &c. The town of Bradford has thirteen thousand and sixty-four inhabitants, occupying two thousand four hundred and fifty-nine houses.* .. The parish is very extensive, being fifteen miles in length, and at an average, four in breadth; it of course contains about forty thousand acres. From an inquisition, taken after the death of Henry de Lacy, the last earl of Lincoln, which happened in 1311, we may form some idea of the wild and unculti- vated state of this parish at that period. Out of forty thousand acres, little more than fifteen hundred appear to have been reclaimed. There were twenty-eight burgage-houses, a few free tenants at will, and a few in bondage; but from the smallness of their rents, their numbers cannot have been considerable. If we sup- pose them to have equalled the burgesses, it will perhaps give a fair estimate of the population of the town. The profits of the corn-mill amounted to more than one-fourth of all the lord's receipts for the parish. The soke must therefore have CHAP. IX. Ludden- den. Todmor- den. Bradford. * According to the conjectures of antiquaries the name of Bradford is derived from the ford at the bottom of the church brow ; yet it is difficult to imagine how a water so insignificant could have acquired the epithet of “broad.” The term broad is, however, in Yorkshire frequently applied to rivers which have no peculiar title to that designation, and hence the river Aire, where it passes Leeds, is by many called the Broad Aire. . . . t The entire parish contains a population of fifty-two thousand nine hundred and fifty-four persons. Population 256 - HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Leland’s aCCOunt. extended over the whole. From the existence of a fulling-mill we cannot avoid inferring that the cloth manufacture had commenced. To that also a soke belonged. The market was held on the Lord’s-day, a concession (however inexcusable) to the circumstances of the greater part of the parish; for the church was situate at one extremity, and few, perhaps, would have resorted to it from the more distant quarters, who had not the additional inducement of purchasing and carrying home necessaries for their families. The glebe of the church was eight oxgangs, or one carucate, which, according to another survey, extended to ninety-six acres; so that the oxgang at Bradford equalled twelve acres. All the old manors mentioned in Domesday were now absorbed in that of Bradford, and one court, from three weeks to three weeks, after the time of their union, was holden for the whole.* - Leland's account of this place, in the reign of Henry the Eighth, is curious — “ Bradeforde, a praty, quick market toune, dimidio aut eo amplius, minus Wacke- felda. It hath one paroche churche, and a chapel of St. Sitha, it standith much by clothing, and is distant vi miles from Halifax, and four miles from Christeal Abbay; there is a confluence in this toune of three Brokers, one riseth above Bouline Haul, so that the hed is a mile dim. from the toune, and this at the toune hath a bridge of one arche. Another risethe a ii mile of, having a mille and a bridge of...... The 3 riseth foor miles of, having . . . . . . The relative conse- quence of Leeds and Bradford was very different at that time and at present; for “Ledis,” saith our author, “two miles lower than Christal Abbay, on Aire rywer, is a praty market, having one paroche chirche, reasonably well buildid (that is the town, not the church), and as large as Bradeforde, but not so quik as it.” This manor belonged to John of Gaunt, who granted to John Northorp and his heirs in the adjoining village of Manningham, three messuages and six bovates of land, to come to Bradford, on the blowing of a horn, on St. Martin’s-day, in winter, and wait on him and his heirs, in their way from Blackburnshire, with a lance and hunting dog, for thirty days, and for going with the receiver or bailiff to conduct him safe to the castle of Pontefract. A descendant of Northorp after- wards granted land in Horton to Rushworth, of Horton, another adjoining village, to hold the hound while Northorp's man blew the horn. These are called hornmen or hornblower lands, and the custom is still kept up; a man coming into the market-place with a horn, halbert, and dog, is met by the owner of the lands in Horton. After proclamation is made, the former calls out aloud, “Heirs of Rush- worth, come hold my hound whilst I blow three blasts of my horn, to pay the rent due to our sovereign lord the King.” He then delivers the string to the man from Horton, and winds his horn thrice. The original horn, resembling that of Tutbury, in Staffordshire, is still preserved, though stripped of its silver ornaments.f. * Loidis and Elmete, ii. p. 351. + Blount's Ancient Tenures. Gough's Camden. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 257 Bradford is pleasantly situate on one of the tributary streams of the river Aire, formerly belonging to the great family of Lacy, earls of Lincoln, who had here a manor-house, where previously had been a castle, the site of which is not at this time exactly known. Like many other manufacturing towns, Bradford, having espoused the cause of the parliament, in the great contest between that body and Charles I., was garrisoned, and maintained a siege against the royalists. Sir Thomas Fairfax came to the assistance of the garrison with eight hundred foot and sixty horse, which brought down upon them the powerful army commanded by the duke of Newcastle, who invested the town, and attempted to storm it in several places. Sir Thomas Fairfax made a vigorous defence, but having exhausted his ammunition, he offered to capitulate; the enemy, however, refusing to grant the conditions, he, with fifty horsemen, cut his way through their lines, and made good his retreat. A full account of the siege of Bradford is affixed to the memoirs of Sir Thomas Fairfax. - “In Bradford, as in almost every other manufacturing town in the west riding, the inhabitants have of late years suffered considerable annoyance from the smoke emitted from steam engine furnaces, and they look forward with some impatience to the removal of this increasing nuisance, which may so easily be effected. Worsted stuffs form the staple manufacture of this town and neighbourhood, but broad and narrow cloths, wool-cards, and combs, are also made here to a conside- rable extent; and the cotton trade from Lancashire has found its way into this district. The spinning of worsted yarn is also a considerable trade here, and has tended not only to enrich individuals, but to promote the general prosperity of the place. Coal and iron are found in great abundance in the neighbourhood, and the Low Moor and Bowling iron works, which are both in the immediate neigh- bourhood, are well known in every part of the country, and enjoy a deserved reputation.”* - - The piece hall in this place is an excellent mart for stuff goods; it is one hundred and forty-four feet long by thirty-six feet broad, and is divided into two apartments, the upper and the lower chamber. This building serves occasionally as a court house, and the general quarter sessions of the peace are held in it. In the same street is the Exchange building, an elegant edifice, erected from the designs of F. Goodwin, Esq. and opened in October, 1829. It was built by subscription, and contains a news-room, concert-room, &c., No manufacturing town in England has perhaps suffered so little from the depression of trade as Bradford. In war and in CHAP. IX. Historic In Otice. Piece hall. peace it has been alike prosperous. It has indeed felt the vicissitudes of trade in common with other places, but the depression has generally been of short duration, and it has been among the first to feel the vivifying effects of the return of prosperous times. - * Baines’ Gazetteer of Yorkshire WOL. III. - 3 U 258 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Church. Christ church. Chapels. Gammar- school. .exhibition at Queen's college, Oxford. . . . - The parish church, which stands on the site of an edifice much more ancient, is a structure of pointed architecture of considerable antiquity; it was built in . . the reign of Henry VI. and, after fifteen years’ labour, finished in the thirty-sixth year of that reign. It comprises a nave and chancel, with aisles, and a tower at the west end. The interior is neat, and crowded with monuments and tablets; among them is one to Abraham Sharpe, the celebrated mathematician, who died 15th August, 1742. The tower is of later date, and was not completed till the 23d of Henry VII, - . - . , , , Formerly the advowson of this church, together with that at Calverley, was in the crown, but it was given by Queen Mary to the archbishop of York. Since that period the benefice has passed into private hands, and R. Fawcett, Esq. is the present patron. It is valued in the Liber regis at £20. - . A new church, called Christ Church, was erected here in 1813, from the design of J. Taylor, Esq. It is a genuine specimen of the “carpenters’ Gothic” style, with a tower at the west end, devoid of proportion or elegance. This is a curacy of the clear yearly value of £32: patron, the vicar. * - There are also meeting-houses for the worship of dissenters of the Unitarian, Independent, Baptist, and Wesleyan.* and Primitive Methodist persuasions; also a Catholic chapel and Quaker's meeting-house. - .. The grammar-school at Bradford was chartered and liberally endowed by King Charles, in the fourteenth year of his reign. The old school having been for many years in a very ruinous condition, an act of parliament was obtained in the year 1818, to enable the governors to dispose of lands, &c. for the erection of a new school house, and a dwelling house for the head master. The former has just been completed in North parade, an airy part of the town, and is a neat structure, equal, if not superior to any in this or the adjacent counties. Besides a large room for the purposes of instruction, there is a library and a porter's lodge. The school is open to boys of the parish, indefinitely, and there are generally fifty- five in the grammar-school, exclusive of several in the writing-school. Some years ago this was a school of considerable eminence, and several of the first characters in the neighbourhood have been educated on its foundation. It is one of the twelve schools that have the privilege of sending candidates for Lady Elizabeth Hastings's There are several other public schools in this town, and the charities are too numerous to particularize. There is an excellent dispensary here. - - Ancient families in this parish have never been very numerous, and they are now principally either removed or extinct. Archbishop Sharp was born in Bradford, & * This chapel was erected in 1826; it is a ridiculous imitation of Gothic architecture. | - º | | | º º \\ º | º | | | º º {ºf: º: - |\ º º º º - E C. - ſaernits paepºkësºr， rogºtiae，& pºſſsſſſſſſſſſoſ （OOIRIOS （， ， o， ºtºon：IAA:N Aſatrawwaer THE COUNTY OF Yo RK, 259 on the 14th of February, 1644, and was the son of Thomas Sharp, a tradesman in the place. There is no doubt of his consanguinity to the Sharps of Horton, but -Thoresby failing, as Dr. Whitaker imagines, in his usual industry, has not dis- covered the connecting link. Dr. Richard Richardson was born at Bierley hall, and was an ornament to his native parish, which has produced more valuable than distinguished characters. & ' x- The township of North Bierley is very extensive and populous, containing six thousand and seventy persons. erected ; it is a perpetual curacy, valued at £104. Here is the seat of J. Richard- son, Esq. In the gardens is one of the first cedars of Lebanon ever planted in England: it is twelve feet four inches in circumference at a considerable distance There is a neat episcopal chapel here, lately above the ground.* - - . . Bowling is another extensive township, having three thousand five hundred and seventy-nine inhabitants. - Bowling hall, originally Bolling, from a family of that name, the daughter and heiress of which married Sir Richard Tempest, of Bracewell, is an ancient and large majestic building, with a centre and two wings to the north. The south front opening to the garden, is terminated by two square towers of considerable but uncertain antiquity. The earl of Newcastle, commander of the king's forces, made this house his head-quarters in 1643, when he besieged and took Bradford. The hall and manor, with the chapel or chantry church, came to Mr. Mason in 1812.É The townships of Eccleshill, with two thousand one hundred and seventy-six, and Allerton, with one thousand four hundred and eighty-eight persons, have no particular object deserving notice. - - The chapelry of Haworth, situate on the road from Bradford to Colne, has a population of four thousand six hundred and sixty-eight persons. Here is a chapel of ease, dedicated to St. Michael, and erected a short time previous to the Reformation: it is in the patronage of the vicar of Bradford. A fair is held in this village on July 22, for pedlary ware, &c., and one on Oct. 14, for horned cattle, &c. Heaton is a small township, having one thousand two hundred and seventeen inhabitants. The hall is the residence of J. W. Field, Esq. - Horton is a large chapelry, with a population of seven thousand one hundred and ninety-two persons, The chapel, a small edifice (consecrated about twenty-four years ago), is a perpetual curacy, valued at £44: patron, the vicar of Bradford. Horton house is the seat of Mrs. Sharpe. - Clayton with three thousand six hundred and nine inhabitants, CHAP. IX, North Bierley. Bowling. Hall. * Whitaker’s Loidis, vol. ii. p. 358. + Whitaker and Neale. Clayton. Eccleshill. Allerton. Haworth. Heaton. Horton. 260 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Manning- ham. Shipley. Church. Thornton. Wilsden. Calverley. Manningham has two thousand four hundred and seventy-one inhabitants. Manningham house is the handsome seat of E. L. Parker, Esq. The township of Shipley has one thousand six hundred and six inhabitants. A new church has been erected here from a design by J. Oates, Esq. The number of persons it will hold is one thousand four hundred and eighty-eight, viz.: one thousand one hundred and fifty-six in pews, and three hundred and thirty-two in free seats. The contract amounted to £7,687. 19s. 3d. The first stone was laid Nov. 5, 1823, and it was opened in 1826. It consists of a nave, chancel, and tower with pinnacles. - - - - The hall is the residence of Mrs. Wainman. In the chapelry of Thornton, George Kirton, Esq. of Oxnop hall, died in 1769, aged one hundred and twenty-five. He was a most remarkable fox-hunter, following the chase on horseback till he was eighty years of age; from that period to one hundred years he regularly attended the unkennelling the fox in his single chair. Wilsden has one thousand seven hundred and eleven inhabitants. Here is a new church, similar in architecture and dimensions to that of Shipley, and was erected by the same architect. * The parish of CALVERLEY is of considerable extent. The township of Calverley cum Farsley is situate four miles north of Bradford. The population of the village amounts to two thousand six-hundred and five persons. The benefice is a vicarage, dedicated to St. Wilfred, and valued in the Liber regis at £9. 11s 10d., in the parliamentary return at £140 : patron, the king. In the church is a school, built and repaired by the parish: to this school, Mr. Hillary, of Leeds, left a small annual donation. A part of the great tithes of Hooton-Pagnali and Thorpe-Arch were given, by letters patent of Queen Elizabeth, Hall. to the poor of this parish, value, about £4 per annum. Calverley hall, the residence for six centuries of the ancient family of Calverley, is memorable as the scene of a tragedy attributed to the pen of Shakspeare, under the designation of “The Yorkshire Tragedy.” Divested of poetic fiction, the story is as follows:—Walter Calverley, the son and heir of William Calverley, Esq. married, at the close of the sixteenth century, Philippa, daughter of Sir John Brooke, by whom he had three sons, William, Walter, and Henry. Dissipation, and other vices in the head of this ill-fated family, had plunged them into extreme embarrassments, and under the influence of intoxication, jealousy, or intolerable apprehension that his children would become beggars, he came to the desperate resolution to be himself their murderer. The intelligence that his brother had been committed to prison in consequence of a security given for Walter, brought on the crisis which he had contemplated, and observing his eldest son, a boy four years old, at play in the gallery of Calverley hall, the unnatural father rushed upon him, THE COUNTY OF YORK. . 261 and inflicted two or three wounds with his dagger. He then seized up the bleeding child, and carried him to the room of his mother, who was asleep, while the nurse CHAP. IX. was dressing another of the children in the room. The unhappy mother, roused from her slumbers by the violent entry of her husband, soon became aware of the danger which threatened her children, and endeavoured to save the second child from his fury, but all her efforts were in vain, and he plunged the reeking dagger into its heart, while clasped in its mother's arms. His fury was then directed against his lady, and he inflicted upon her several severe wounds. Still unsatiated with blood, he took his horse and rode off for the village where his infant child was at nurse, but as he entered the place, he was thrown from his horse, and secured by a servant, who had been despatched after him. On the following day he was taken before Sir John Saville, of Howley, and Sir Thomas Bland, Knights, two of the magistrates of the West riding, in whose presence he confessed his crime, adding, that he had harboured the intention of killing his children for two years past, and that “the reason that moved him thereunto was, for that his wife had many times heretofore uttered speeches and given signs and tokens unto him whereby he might easily perceive and conjecture, that the said children were not by him begotten, and that he had found himself to be in danger of his life sundry times by his said wife.” At the close of the examination he was committed to gaol, but as the plague then raged in York, he was sent to Wakefield. Subse- quently he was removed to York, where he was brought to trial, but refusing to plead either guilty or not guilty, “he was adjudged to be pressed to death, according to which judgment he was executed in the castle at York the 5th of August, 1604.”f The lady of this high-born malefactor recovered from her wounds, and his son Henry succeeded to the estate and chattels, the latter of which his father, by refusing to plead on his trial, had saved from forfeiture. The estate remained in the Calverley family till the year 1754, when Sir Walter Calverley, who took the name of Blackett, sold the manor and estate of Calverley to Thomas Thornhill, of Fixby, Esq. by whose heir, Thomas Thornhill, Esq. of Fixby, in Yorkshire, and Riddlesworth, in Norfolk, it is still possessed. Of the hall one wing and the centre still remain, but much mutilated. It was probably built early in the reign of Henry VII.i. It is now inhabited by a number of manufacturers and others as separate tenements. . * The above quotation is made from the examination taken before the magistrates on the 24th of April, 1604, but it is just to the memory of his lady to add, that all the accounts published at the trial concur in representing her as a virtuous and exemplary woman. + Stowe's Chronicle, anno 1604. - ºf There are views of the chapel and the apartment where the murder was committed in Loidis and Elmete, vol. ii. 220. --- - - vol. III. 3 x 262 - HISTORY OF At Apperley Bridge, in this parish, is a large establishment on the principle of the Kingswood school. It was formed here on the 8th of January, 1812, under the superintendence of the Rev. Miles Martindale, for the education of the sons of Wesleyan Methodist ministers. The mansion, occupied as a school, is one of the most stately buildings in the county, and it is situated in a delightful part of Airedale. The number of scholars in this excellent institution is limited to seventy-two. - Idle is a large chapelry, with a population of four thousand six hundred and sixty-six persons. The church is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £109, 5s. : patron, the vicar of Calverley. The new church here, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, has a tower at the west end, and is of the mongrel style, in imitation of Gothic or pointed architecture. The first stone was laid April 28, 1828, and the church was consecrated September 6, 1830. It will contain six hundred and four persons in pews, and four hundred and sixteen in free seats. The contract was £2,841. 13s. and the architect J. Oates, Esq. w • - The chapelry of Pudsey has a population of six thousand two hundred and twenty-nine persons. The church is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Lawrence, and valued in the Liber regis at £109. 15s. It is in the patronage of the vicar. The old chapel here is a mean edifice, apparently erected in the latter part of the seventeenth century. The new church is a large edifice, comprising a body and side aisles, with a vestry at the east, and a lofty tower at the west end; all of “carpenters’ Gothic.” It was erected at the expense of government. The first stone was laid July 19, 1821, and the church was finished in 1823. It will hold one thousand two hundred and forty-four persons in pews, and seven hundred and fifty-six in free seats. The contract amounted to £13,362. 8s. J. Taylor, Esq. architect. There are two Independent and one Wesleyan chapels in this village. At Fulneck, in this township, is a considerable settlement of the Moravian brethren, which was begun about the year 1748. The chief buildings are the hall, containing a chapel, a school for girls, and minister's dwelling; a large school- house for boys, a house for single men, another for single women, and another for widows; situate upon a terrace of considerable length, and commanding a fine prospect. These, with the houses for separate families, form a considerable village; various branches of trades are carried on in it, but the chief employment is the woollen manufacture. The single women are famous for their skill in working muslins, with the needle and tambour; and their labours sell at a high price. The vocal and instrumental music of the settlement is considered very BOOK WI. Idle. Ne W. church. Pudsey. ' * New church. Fulneck. excellent. THE county of York. 263 The parish of BIRSTALL is situate on the high road from Huddersfield to Leeds, being distant from the former town seven miles. The population of the parish in 1821 amounted to twenty-one thousand two hundred and seventeen persons. The church, a vicarage, dedicated to St. Peter, and valued in the king's books at £23, 19s. 2d., is in the patronage of the archbishop of York. It consists of a nave and chancel, with a tower of good proportion. - This place is not mentioned in Domesday, but Gomersall is described as containing two manors; it seems therefore probable that Birstall was one of them, and being then an inconsiderable place, was passed over without further notice.* This parish, though extensive, does not furnish a township of Birstall, the village being in that of Gomersall. Here was born, 1579, Henry Burton, a puritan divine, who was educated at St. John's college, Cambridge, but took his degree of B. D. at Oxford. He was afterwards clerk of the closet to Prince Henry, and next to Prince Charles; but was turned out for a libel against the bishops. In 1636, he was persecuted in the high commission court for two seditious sermons, sentenced to the pillory, fined £5,000, and ordered to be imprisoned for life. In 1640, he was set at liberty, and was restored to his living. He died in 1648. He wrote many pamphlets, chiefly controversial and abusive.t. At Fieldhead, in this parish, in 1733, was born Dr. Joseph Priestley, the cele- brated theological writer. : * - Cleckheaton is a chapelry, with a population of two thousand four hundred and thirty-six persons. The church (anciently called Old White Chapel in the East, lately rebuilt and enlarged) is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £92. It is in the patronage of the vicar of the parish. A new church is in course of erection here; it will be a neat structure of the style of architecture prevalent in the 13th century, with a tower and spire. The contract is £2,387. 8s. It can accommodate six hundred and three persons, of whom three hundred and seven are to have seats. The first stone was laid March 5, 1830. At Cleckheaton, Dr. Richardson discovered the site and remains of a Roman town, of which he gave a distinct and 'satisfactory account to Thomas Hearne. The coins discovered here were principally of the lower empire. Drighlington also is a chapelry, with one thousand seven hundred and nineteen inhabitants. The chapel was consecrated in 1813. - Cattle fairs are held here February 26, the Thursdays in Easter and Whitsun weeks, and every other Thursday till September 29.- . - * Whitaker. + Biog. Dict. CHAP. IX. Birstall. Church.' Henry Burton. Dr. Priest- ley. Cleckhea- ton. Drighling- ton. - 264 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Grammar school. Battle in 1642. The free grammar-school at Drighlington owes its origin to the benevolence of James Margetson, archbishop of Armagh, a native of this village, who having built a school here, but not having endowed the same in his life-time, by his will, dated the 31st of May, 1678, gave all his lands, tenements, &c., in Drighlington and Newhall, to his son, Robert Margetson, and his heirs, to pay yearly for ever towards the maintenance of the school, £60, out of the rents and profits of those lands, which King William and Queen Mary, by their letters-patent, in 1691, granted—that Sir John Tempest, Bart. and other persons therein named, should be a body corporate, by the name of “ the Governors of the Free-School of James Margetson, late lord-archbishop of Armagh,” with perpetual succession, and be able to receive the said yearly sum of £60, &c.—The right of nominating the head master was vested in the master and senior fellows of Peterhouse, in Cambridge. The number of governors being reduced to one, the survivor, in 1811, chose eight others; since which, several regulations and ordinances conducive to the welfare of the institution have been made. The head master receives the whole of the £60, although originally only £40, the rest being paid, to the usher £13. 6s. 8d., English master £6. 13s. 4d. * - - : * . .. A battle was fought on Adwalton moor, in this township, in 1642, between the earl of Newcastle, who commanded the royalist troops, and the Lord Fairfax and his son, who commanded the parliamentarian forces: the latter were totally routed. The old lord fled to Bradford; Sir Thomas took the road to Halifax, but the next day joined his father at Bradford with his division, where Newcastle prepared to besiege them in form. Newcastle’s head-quarters were at Bowling hall, from which place he now brought his cannon to bear upon the town, church and steeple, the last of which was protected by woolsacks. Fairfax now saw his danger, and determined to make his escape by a sally; this he effected with considerable loss, and fought his way to Leeds, whence he retreated to Hull. In this sally, Lady Fairfax, who had bravely accompanied her husband through this campaign, was taken prisoner on horseback, but was generously sent back, with an escort, by New- castle, in his own coach. The town having now fallen into Newcastle’s hands, he ordered it, it is said, to be given up to military execution. Whether the order was really given or not, it certainly was not put in execution; and tradition assigns the following reason for his forbearance.—On the night preceding, Newcastle, while in bed at Bowling hall, was accosted by an apparition of a female form, which implored him to spare the town; and he, either affrighted or melted into compliance, thus saved the lives of the unarmed inhabitants, and the place became a garrison for the king.f. * h * C \rlisle’s Grammar Schools. + Fairfax's Memoirs. Whitaker's Loidis and Elmete. THE COUNTY OF YORK. * . 265 The township of Great and Little Gomersall has five thousand nine hundred and fifty-two inhabitants. ~ Heckmondwicke has two thousand five hundred and seventy-nine inhabitants. A new church is being erected in this village; it will have a tower and spire, and will be completed in 1831. The contract for this edifice amounts to £2,574. 10s. 6d., and the accommodation afforded will be three hundred and sixty-five persons in pews, and two hundred and twenty-four in free seats. The first stone was laid March 3, 1830. The township of Hunsworth has a population of eight hundred and seventy persons. .." r Liversedge is an extensive chapelry, with four thousand two hundred and fifty- nine inhabitants. Here is a church, called Christ Church, which has lately been built by the Rev. Hammond Robertson, A. M. who endowed it with five acres of land; the patronage of which, by act of parliament, is vested in himself and his heirs for ever. e - * . * , - The Neviles, for many descents, had a manor, park, and principal mansion here. Of the last there are considerable remains, which prove it to have been an hall- house, with a centre and two wings, about the time of Henry V11. It is now only a farm house. e - tº - The chapelry of Tong* contains a population of one thousand eight hundred and ninety-three persons. The church is a perpetual curacy, in the patronage of J. Plumbe, Esq. - - Tong is the Tuinc of Domesday, and the lordship of a family of that name, from which family it has been successively transmitted to the Mirfields and Tempests. Sir George Tempest built a stately mansion here in 1702, now the residence of John Plumbe, Esq. - - - - The township of Wike contains one thousand five hundred and nine inhabitants. At Birkenshaw, in this parish, a new church is being built by the commissioners. It will have a tower and spire; the contract amounts to £2,929. 5s. 6d. ; and it will hold seven hundred and eight persons. - The wapentake of Agbriggi is divided into the upper and lower divisions. The former contains the following parishes:— * Tong, usually styled a lordship, although within the parish of Birstall, is not subject to the vicarage of that church, except the annual payment of two shillings to the vicar for synodals, to the repairs of a part of the church-yard wall, and an annual payment of five shillings to the churchwardens, CHAP. IX. Gomersall. Heck- mond- wicke. Hungworth Liver- sedge. Tong. Wike. Wapentake of Ag- brigg. under the denomination of rogues' money. • + “The fee of this wapentake was the property of Henry, Duke of Lancaster, who dying without issue male, his large estates were divided between his daughters, of whom Blanch, being married to John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, fourth son of King Edward III. had the bailiwick of this hundred . assigned for her property with many other estates.”—Magna Brit. VOL. III. . 3 y 266 p HISTORY OF Book VI. Hudders- field. Naviga. tion. ALMONDBURY, HUDDERSFIELD, -- KIRKBURTON, KIRKHEATON, AND PART of RochDALE. - The lower division contains the following parishes:— EAST ARDESLEY, EMLEY, ROTHWE I, L., WEST ARDESI, EY, METHLEY, GREAT SANDALL, BAT LEY, - MIR FIELD, THORN HILL, CROFTON, NEWLAND, - WAKE FIELD, DEWSBURY, NoFMANton, WARM FIE I'D. HUDDERSFIELD is one of the five principal market-towns in the central part of the West Riding; it is in the liberty of the honour of Pontefract, eight miles from Halifax, sixteen from Leeds, twenty-four from Manchester, and one hundred and eighty-eight from London. The town, which derives its name from Oder or Hudder, the first Saxon colonist in the place, stands on the river Colne, which, rising near the source of the Don above Holmfirth, falls into the Calder near Nunbrook. The valley formed by this stream, with a small quantity of level ground upon its banks, comprehends the parish of Huddersfield.* The great, , and almost the sole pro- prietor of this town is Sir John Ramsden, Bart., whose family had a grant of the market by patent, dated as early as the 23d of Charles II. The revenue derived from this property by the Ramsden family is, at the present day, more than princely. The inland navigation of Huddersfield affords to its trade the most ample facilities, both to the east and to the west. The Ramsden canal, which commences at the king's mills, close to the town, crosses the high road to Halifax, and passing Blackhouse brook near Deighton, unites with the Calder at Cooper's bridge. In this way a communication is opened with the great trading towns of Halifax, Wakefield, Leeds, and York, as well as Hull, from whence the merchandise is shipped to foreign countries. The Huddersfield canal, which joins the Ramsden canal at the south end of the town, conveys goods westward, by way of Longwood, Slaithwaite, and Marsden. There is a tunnel, nearly three miles and a half in length, cut through the English Appenines, to within two miles of Dobcross, from which the canal, after crossing the river Tame in several of its windings, comes within a mile of Lydgate, by Mosley and Staleybridge, and unites with the Ashton and Oldham canal near Ashton-under-line. The navigation to Manchester is then direct, and from thence the communication by water and land is made daily to Liverpool, the great depot of commerce on the western coast.f. ,” * “Naturally, this part of the country is barren and unproductive, but its local advantages for manu- facture, arising, principally, from its coal and waterfalls, has raised it to the rank of one of the principal seats of the woollen trade in the kingdom, and where men congregate in large numbers, the soil seldom remains for any long time unproductive.”—Baines' Directory: - - - + The Huddersfield canal has answered better for the town, and for the country through which it passes, than for the proprietors. It has been a losing speculation, and ages will probably pass away THE COUNTY OF YORK. 267 The manufactures of this town and neighbourhood are principally woollens, and consist of narrow and broad cloths, serges, kerseymeres, and various other woollen fabrics. Formerly, the buyers and sellers of cloth met in an open square; but in the year 1766 a commodious hall was erected for their accommodation by Sir John Ramsden. This building, which is two stories high, forms a large circle, with a diametrical range, one story high, which divides the interior parts into two semicircles. The light is wholly admitted from within, there being no windows on the outside, by which construction security is afforded against fire and depredation. The hall is subdivided into streets, and the benches or stalls are generally filled with cloths, lying close together upon edge, with the bosom up for inspection. Here, in brisk times, an immense quantity of business is done, in a few hours. The doors are opened early in the morning of the market day, which is Tuesday, and closed at half-past twelve o'clock at noon; they are again opened at three in the afternoon, for the removal of cloth, &c. Above the door is a cupola, in which a clock and bell are placed, for the purpose of regulating the time of commencing and terminating the business of the day, and beneath is the following inscription:- “Erected by Sir John Ramsden, Bart. 1766. Enlarged by his son, Sir John Ramsden, Bart. 1780.” A century ago, the population and opulence of Huddersfield did not amount to more than one-half of either Halifax or Wakefield; but it is now equal to the largest of them, and promises fair to maintain the commercial and manufacturing conse- quence which it has so deservedly acquired. According to a calculation made by Dr. Walker, who has published a topographical account of Huddersfield, it would appear that the place is healthy in a very eminent degree; and that, on an average of five years, the annual number of deaths, in proportion to the population, was only as one to fifty-four and a fraction.* The history of Huddersfield does not furnish much matter for the gratification of antiquarian research, though it is an undoubted fact that the castle hill at Almondbury was, in the early age of our history, crowned with a Saxon fortress, which awed the villages below; t and that the celebrated Roman station of Cambodunum was within the parish of Huddersfield, on the confines of Stainland, and in the township of Longwood. I It is also acknowledged that there are some ancient symbols of druidical worship still extant in this parish; and that the site of a cromlech, and several stupendous rocking stones of that kind, remain to this day. Not far from Meltham there is one of these stones; but the finest druidical CHAP. IX. Manufac- tures. Popula- tion. before it pays common interest for the money invested in the undertaking, which was very con- siderable, & * This return is so evidently fallacious, from such of “the Dissenters and sectaries” as bury at Their own places of worship being omitted, that it is calculated only to mislead. # Whitaker’s Leeds. # Watson's Halifax. Antiqui- ties. 268 HISTORY OF ROOK W I. remain in the parish of Huddersfield is in Golcar, on Wholestone moor.” From the rolls of Richard II, it appears that, in the third year of that reign, free warren in Huddersfield was granted to the prior and canons of Nostel. But before this time, so early as the year 1200, Roger de Lacy granted to William de Bellomonte, ancestor of the Beaumonts of Whitley, a grant for his homage and service. A grant was also made by the same Roger de Lacy to Colin de Dammeville, which said Colin, as an act of gratitude to his benefactor, “gave to God, the blessed St. Mary, and the abbots and monks of Stanlaw, for the soul of his lord, Roger de Lacy, all his part of the said mill of Huddersfield, on the river Caune, and 20s. annual rent.” r This neighbourhood enjoys the advantage of several mineral springs, which, if not endowed with those singularly brilliant properties ascribed to springs of greater fame, are important to the labouring classes, to whom access to distant waters is St. Peter’s church. pretty nearly impracticable. At or near Holmfirth, Lockwood, Kirkheaton, and Slaithwaite are to be found springs, yielding, on analyis, different proportions of sulphureous impregnations. y St. Peter's church is a small edifice, comprising a nave and aisles, a large projection similar to a south transept, a chancel and aisles, and an embattled tower at the west end. The whole appears to have been erected at different periods, though Dr. Whitaker says it was rebuilt about the time of Henry VIII. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £17. 13s. 4d. Patron, Sir J. Ramsden, Bart. Trinity church. Paddock church. Trinity church, situate on an eminence, was built by B. Haigh Allen, Esq. (who has an elegant seat here) at Greenhead, at an expense of £12,000. The first stone of this edifice was laid in 1817, and the church was opened for public worship on Sunday, the 10th of October, 1819, having been consecrated two days before by the archbishop of this province. The architect was J. Taylor, Esq. of Leeds. It is a handsome edifice, in the pointed style of architecture, comprising a nave and aisles, chancel, and embattled tower, with pinnacles, at the west end. The interior is fitted up with much taste, and in the gallery, at the west end, is a good organ. The church contains upwards of one thousand five hundred sittings, of which one-third are free seats. Its situation, which is on the north-west side of the town, is very commanding, and in every part of the surrounding country it forms a beautiful object, at once picturesque and impressive. - - Two churches have been built by the parliamentary commissioners in this town- ship. The first, in point of date, is at the Paddock. It is a neat edifice, with a * Walker's Topography. + The entire expense, including the procuring of the act of parliament, enclosing site and endowment, was upwards of £16,000. - --- | | | º - - - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 269 tower, in the perpendicular style of architecture. The first stone was laid Nov. 5, 1828, and the church was completed in 1830. The contract amounted to £2,606. 12s. 2d. It will hold four hundred and eight persons in pews, and four hundred and fifty-nine in free seats. - - * St. Paul's church, in Ramsden street, is an elegant edifice, with a tower and spire, erected from the designs of P. Atkinson, Esq. The first stone was laid November 13, 1829. The contract is £5,486. 15s., and the number of persons it will hold, one thousand two hundred and forty-three, of which three hundred and eighty will be accommodated with free seats. w There are also two Methodist chapels, both very commodious buildings; one of them used by the Methodists of the old, and the other by the Methodists of the new connexion. The former of these erections, which is situate in Queen street, has been very recently built, at an expense of £8,000, and is the largest Methodist chapel in the kingdom. It will seat two thousand four hundred persons, and is in length one, hundred and two feet, and breadth seventy-two feet, exclusive of the wings. There is likewise an Independent chapel a little out of the town, at Highfield, and a very large and elegant chapel in Ramsden street, erected at the cost of nearly £6,000; and a meeting-house, for the Society of Friends, at the Paddock. . . . The charitable institutions in Huddersfield are the Huddersfield and Upper Agbrigg Infirmary, erected in 1830, in an airy situation in Trinity street. It is a neat edifice, consisting of a centre and wings; the Dispensary, established on the 12th of May, 1814, on the restoration of peace; the Bible Society, established in 1810; the Religious Tract Society, established March 16, 1816; the National School Society, established in 1819; and the Church Missionary Association, esta- blished in 1813, besides some other charities, of a more circumscribed nature, for the relief of the poor and destitute. - - The markets are large and well arranged, and the streets open and well built. A short distance from the town, on the Sheffield road, are public baths, a neat edifice, in a pleasant situation. A company for supplying the inhabitants with gas was established a few years ago. ... • The chapelry of Longwood has a population of one thousand nine hundred and forty-two persons. The church is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Mark, and valued in the parliamentary return at £116. 8s. Patron, the vicar of Huddersfield: Marsden is an extensive chapelry, with a population of two thousand three hun- dred and thirty persons. The church is a perpetual curacy, under Almondbury, valued in the parliamentary return at £80. - Scammonden chapelry has a population of eight hundred and fifty-five persons. The church here is a perpetual curacy, under Huddersfield, WOL. III. 3 Z CHAP. IX. St. Paul’s church. Chapels. Charities. Markets. Longwood Marsden. Scammon- den. 270 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Slaith- waite. Golcar. Lindley. Quarmby. Almond-. bury. ~ The chapelry of Slaithwaite has a population of two thousand eight hundred and seventy-one persons. The church is a perpetual curacy, under Huddersfield, the vicar of which is patron. It is valued in the parliamentary returns at £129. 8s. 6d. The township of Golcar is large, and has a population of two thousand six hun- dred' and six persons. A new church has been erected here, from the designs of J. Atkinson, Esq. It is a handsome edifice, of early pointed architecture, having a tower and well-proportioned spire. The first stone was laid March 13, 1828, and the church was consecrated September 7, 1830. It cost £2,865. 17s. 10d. and will hold five hundred and twenty persons in pews, and four hundred and thirty in free seats. - - w Lindley is also a large township, with a population of two thousand and forty souls. Here is a new church, the first stone of which was laid June 11, 1828, and it was consecrated September 7, 1830. It is a neat edifice, of pointed architecture, consisting of a nave and changel, with an embattled tower at the west end. The details of this edifice are of all periods, and many entirely fanciful. This church will hold four hundred and eight persons in pews, and four hundred and fifty-nine in free seats. The contract came to £2,615. 15s. 8d. J. Oates, Esq. was the architect. - Quarmby, in this township, was anciently the seat of a family of that name. In the reign of King Edward III., 1341, Sir John Elland, being high-sheriff of York- shire, a quarrel took place between him and three neighbouring gentlemen—John de Lockwood, Sir Robert Beaumont, and Sir Hugh Quarmby. What occasioned the dispute does not appear, but it arose to such a dreadful height as to cause the death of all the three, who were murdered in one night by the sheriff and his men: a circumstance that strongly marks the ferocious manners of the times.* t The parish of ALMonDBURY is very extensive, and has a population of twenty-three thousand nine hundred and seventy-nine persons. It is situate two miles from Huddersfield, and the township contains five thousand six hundred and seventy-nine inhabitants. - i The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £20. 7s. 11d. Patrons, the trustees of the free grammar-school of Clitheroe, Lancashire. The church, dedicated to All Saints, is a neat structure of pointed architecture. The roof of the nave is in fine preservation; it is flat and panelled, and on a filleting round the whole of it are some curious verses...} Here is a free grammar-school, founded by patent of King James I., and now endowed with about £120 per annum. Here is supposed to have been a Roman station, the Cambodunum of Antoninus, Cambodus Ill]II] . .* * Watson’s Halifax. - - + Printed in Loidis and Elmete, vol. ii. p. 827. THE COUNTY OF York. 2n - * - - * º as there are marks of an old rampart, and some ruins of a wall, and of a castle. In the Saxon times it was the seat of royalty, and graced with a church, built by . CHAP. IX. Paulinus, the Northumbrian apostle, and dedicated to St. Alban. Afterwards a castle was built here, which was confirmed to Henry Lacy, by King Stephen.” The late Dr. Whitaker says, “that the whole” of what Camden states respecting this place “is so hypothetical as scarcely to merit a confutation. First, Almond- bury is not Cambodunum, which has been decisively fixed at Slack near Stainland. Secondly, it is not Roman at all, wanting every symptom which belongs either to the site or the structure of a Roman encampment. Thirdly, it is unquestionably Saxon,” &c. Of the castle hill, Dr. Whitaker has given us a ground plan, from which it appears to occupy upwards of eleven acres. “The crown of the hill has been strongly fortified by a double wall and trenches; the area within has also been sub-divided into an outer and inner enclosure from the gate, and the remains of mortar and stones, almost vitrified, prove beyond all controversy that the place has been destroyed by fire.* , v- -- - Thorpe Willa is the seat of J. Dobson, Esq. - South Crosland is a considerable township, with a population of one thousand five hundred and eighty-three persons. Here is a new church, erected on high ground. It was built by Mr. Atkinson, of York, and is a very plain building of early pointed architecture, with a tower at the west end. The first stone was laid on the 15th of October, 1827, by the Rev. Lewis Jones, the vicar of Almondbury, and the church was consecrated September 8, 1830. It is dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and contains seven hundred sittings, of which three hundred and twenty- two are free. The contract was £2,321.4s. 1d. The site was given by Richard Henry Beaumont, Esq. - - - Crosland hall is an ancient mansion of the Beaumonts, which was surrounded by a ditch; the remains of which were visible in Mr. Watson's time. This mansion is rendered famous in local history by the family feuds of the Ellands of Elland, Beaumonts of Crosland, and Lockwoods of Lockwood, in the time of Edward III. when Sir Robert Beaumont was slain in this hall. - Farnley Tyas is another considerable township, with a population of nine hundred souls. - - - * - * * Woodsome, the residence of R. Gill, Esq. so called from its situation, almost embosomed in flourishing oak woods, and anciently a seaf of the Kayes, but lately of the earl of Dartmouth, whose great-grandfather married the heiress of the Kayes.' The house is quadrangular and spacious. The hall is of the latter end of the reign of Henry VIII. or that of his son, Edward VI. This apartment is preserved * Camden. - - + Loidis and Elmete, South Crosland. Hall. Farnley Tyas. 272 HISTORY OF B()OK WI. Honley. Lingarths. Austonley. Holme, Linthwaite Lockwood Meltham. Mether Thong. entire, the rest of the front has been rebuilt, and bears the date of 1600. In this hall are two very singular paintings, on wood, dated 1573. One contains a flat full- faced figure of John Kaye, son of Arthur Kaye, and Dorothy Mauleverer, his wife. Around the father are the figures of his sons, and around the mother her daughters. At the feet of the lady is a cumbent figure of an aged man, marked seventy-six, in black. On the margin of each is a long catalogue of the noble and generous kin of the parties, and on the backs (for they are painted on both sides) the respective arms of the same. To all these are added several singular and rude inscriptions, particulars of which are given by Dr. Whitaker, in his Leodiensis. * The chapelry of Honley is of great extent, having a population of three thousand five hundred and one persons. The church is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary returns at £124. 9s. 6d. : patron, the vicar of the parish. Lingarths (population eight hundred and nine), Austonley (population nine hundred and sixty-eight), and Holme (population four hundred and fifty-nine), do not require further notice. - - | . The township of Linthwaite has a population of two thousand one hundred and twenty-seven persons. The new church here was built by the same architect as Golcar, and is very similar in style and appearance. The first stone was laid April 9, 1827, and it was completed in 1829. It will contain eight hundred persons, two hundred of whom are accommodated with free seats. The contract for the building amounted to £2,969. 2s. 10d. - . - Lockwood has a population of one thousand eight hundred and eighty-one per- sons. The new church here is an elegant edifice, of decorated pointed architecture. It has a small bell turret on the roof, and, to the credit of the architect (R. D. Chantrell, Esq.), all the details are from specimens of the period he has chosen for the building. The first stone was laid September 4, 1828, and the church was consecrated September 8, 1830. It will contain five hundred and twenty-two persons in pews, and three hundred and ninety-eight in free seats. The contract was £2,950. 15s. 3d. The site was the gift of Sir J. Ramsden, Bart. Here is a large public school, erected by subscription in 1821. - - Meltham is an extensive chapelry. Population, two thousand. Here is a chapel of ease to Almondbury, dedicated to St. Bartholomew. Abraham Woodhead, whom Dr. Whitby pronounces the most ingenious and solid writer of the Roman Catholic party, was a native of this place, born in 1608, and is supposed by many to be the author of “The Whole Duty of Man.” He died in 1678, The township of Nether Thong has a population of nine hundred and twenty- seven persons. - - * - Of the smaller class of churches erected by the parliamentary commissioners, the THE county of York. 273 new church at this place deserves to be ranked among the first, both as regards the chasteness and elegance of the style, and the moderate charge at which it was built. It is small, with a bell turret, surmounted by a finial of excellent character, and the whole of the details are unexceptionable. The cost of the church was £2,869. 12s. 1d. the accommodation, seven hundred sittings, of which three hundred and eighteen are free. The first stone was laid on the 14th of J anuary, 1829, and the building was consecrated September 8, 1830. R. D. Chantrell, Esq. was architect, - ! Upper Thong has a population of one thousand four hundred and thirty-seven persons. & - The parish of KIRKBURTON is of considerable extent; * the township, situate six miles from Wakefield, contains two thousand one hundred and fifty-three persons. The name and situation of this place led Dr. Whitaker to conjecture that a Saxon fort once stood here. “Accordingly, at this place, the parish church, from which there is a steep declivity on the north and west, the appearance of a ditch on the south, and a deep narrow lane, at a corresponding distance, on the east, has every appearance of a Saxon fort, though the keep has been levelled. In addition to these appearances, a small sike immediately adjoining to the north-east is still called the Old Saxe Dyke.” - - * The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £13. 6s. 8d. Patron, the king. - e The present church, built in the reign of Edward III. pays a pension of £4 per annum as a mark of its dependence upon that ancient and fruitful mother of churches, Dewsbury, from which it appears to have been severed about the time of the first earl of Warren. The Burtons may be traced as lords of this manor to the highest period of local names. In 1455, Edward Kaye, of Woodsome, Esq. was owner of this manor, by marriage of Isabel, the daughter of Thomas Burton; it is now the property of Sir John Lister Kaye, Bart. of Denby grange, his descendant. The township of Cartworth has a population of one thousand two hundred and eleven persons. - - - At New Mills is a church, recently erected by the commissioners. It consists of a body and tower at the west, and with pinnacles at the angles. The first stone was laid on April 9, 1829, and it was completed in 1830. It will hold one thousand persons, four hundred and twelve of whom are accommodated with free seats. The contract was £3601. 11s. 10d., and the architect, P. Atkinson, Esq. of York. • . . . - * The entire population of this parish is thirteen thousand six hundred and fifty-nine. VOL. III. * 4 A CHAP. IX. Upper Thong. Kirkbur- ton. Cartworth. 274 HISTORY OF BOOK Vſ. Half Cumberworth” is a small chapelry, with a population of one thousand one hundred and twenty persons. : - The chapel, dedicated to St. Nicholas, is a neat edifice, having a nave, chancel, and tower. - . . . . - - - - -- Foulston (population one thousand two hundred and sixty-four), Hepworth (population one thousand and forty-eight), Shelley (population one thousand three hundred and twenty-nine), Shepley (population one thousand), Thurstonland (population nine hundred and eighty-nine), are considerable townships, occupied by manufacturers, and having several chapels in the Wesleyan connexion. - r The township of Wooldale is very large, and contains a population amounting to three thousand four hundred and forty-five persons. * * This place, like many others, very probably took its name from its abounding with wolves, which were once so numerous in this part of the kingdom, that they attacked and destroyed great numbers of the tame beasts of the villages. The inhabitants, finding all their efforts to destroy them in vain, petitioned king Athel- stan, beseeching him to grant them relief, by taking some effectual method to destroy those ferocious animals; for which service, they bound themselves, and their successors for ever, to give every year one thrave of corn, out of every carucate of land in the bishoprick of York. Their petition was granted, and buildings erected in many places, particularly in the woods and forests, for the reception of dogs and huntsmen; by whose means those ravenous creatures were, in a little time, entirely extirpated. It is curious to remark, that the thrave of corn out of every carucate of land was afterwards given, by government, to the cathedral of York; and is, to this day, called Peter-Corn. - Holmfirth, in this township, has a chapel. It is a perpetual curacy under Kirkburton, valued, in the parliamentary returns, at £123.2s. This is the only chapel in the parish of Kirkburton, of the antiquity of which there is nothing known certain, but it was probably erected in the reign of Edward VI. This is a very populous village, situated on the turnpike road to Buxton, partly at the foot of three great hills, and partly climbing up their steep and craggy sides. Holme and Ribbleden waters unite in this village, and this circumstance, together with its proximity to those stupendous mountains, renders it extremely liable to inundations. The houses are scattered in the deep valley, and on the acclivities of the hills, without any regard to arrangement, or the formation of streets. The traveller, at his first view of this extraordinary village, is struck with astonishment . at the singularity of its situation and appearance. There is a Methodist chapel, old connexion, and an Independent chapel in this village. Half Cum- berworth. Foulston. Hepworth. Shelley. Shepley. Thurston- land. Wooldale. Holmfirth. " * Partly in Silkstone parish; Staincross wapentake. THE county of York. 275 The parish of KIRKHEATON* is, like the last, very populous. The township, containing two thousand one hundred and eighty-six persons, is situate two miles east of Huddersfield. . * The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £25, 13s. 9d in the patron- age of T. R. Beaumont, Esq. The church is dedicated to St. John the Baptist. After the origin of local names, the first race of mesne lords who appear at this place bore the denomination, de Heton. They were benefactors to the house of Fountains, and to their piety the parish church may with great probability be ascribed. The payment of £1. 3s. 4d. to the church of Dewsbury, proves its ancient dependence on that church, from which it was probably severed about the year 1200. In the church-yard is a gigantic yew-tree, supposed to be coeval with the church, as it could scarcely have attained to its great magnitude in less than six centuries. In the north aisle of the choir is a cumbent statue of Sir Richard Beaumont, of Whitley, Bart. : of this family, who have long been lords of this manor, are several other memorials in the church."f - - - Dalton township has a population of two thousand two hundred and eighty-nine souls. g - *. - Lepton is a considerable township, containing two thousand seven hundred and twenty-nine persons. - . . . . The township of Upper Whitley has seven hundred and sixty-four inhabitants. Whitly hall, the seat of the ancient family of Beaumont from the reign of Henry III., stands advantageously on an elevated plain declining to the west, but sheltered by higher grounds on the east. The park was surrounded by its last possessor with plantations, which at once contribute to shelter and render the place conspicuous as an object in the midst of the numerous elevations resembling itself, with which the face of the country abounds. - - The present house is of two periods. First, there appears to have been a hall with a centre and two wings fronting northward, the remains of which, both in wood and stone, almost prove it to have been the work of Sir Richard Beaumont, about the end of Elizabeth's reign or the beginning of that of her successor. But in the year 1704 was begun a new and magnificent front, closing the open space between the wings to the north, and forming a complete quadrangle within. There is in this front, of about forty-four paces, a line of nine sashes. The architecture, though rather heavy in modern eyes, is striking. Within is an arcade of stone connecting the different apartments, and on the western side of the principal entrance is the family chapel, fitted up with excellently carved oak, and in the taste formed by Gibbons, if not executed by him. The hall in the centre of the south front, * The entire parish contains twenty-one thousand eight hundred and seventy persons. + Whitaker. - . CIHAP. IX, Rirkhea ton. Dalton. Lepton., Upper Whitley. Hall. 276 - HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Denby grange. that is, the former house, remained in its ancient state till it was modernized and rendered a magnificent room by the father of the present possessor, and to the regret of the last. * º The portraits are unusually numerous. T. R. Beaumont, Esq. is the present possessor. t Denby grange, the seat of Sir J. L. Kaye, Bart., is seated in a fertile valley, through which winds the river Colne, and bounded by high hills, richly cultivated. The family of Kaye is of great antiquity in this county, being descended from Sir A. Kaye, one of the knights of the warlike table of Prince Arthur. Sir John Kaye, of Woodsome, Knight, was advanced to the dignity of a baronet by King Charles I. He served that unfortunate monarch as colonel of horse, and suffered much during the civil wars, but happily survived the protectorate of Oliver Cromwell, and witnessed the restoration of King Charles II. The second son of the second baronet was George Kaye, Esq. of Denby grange ; he married Dorothy, daughter of Robert Saville, and dying in 1707, his son succeeded to the property of his two uncles, Christopher Lister, Esq. and Sir Arthur Kaye, Bart, ; he assumed the name of Lister, in addition to his own, and became the fourth baronet of his family; and upon the death of the late Sir Richard Kaye, LL.D. dean of Lincoln, who was the sixth baronet, without issue, the title became extinct, but was renewed, December Rochdale. Saddle- worth with Quick. 28, 1812, in the person of the present proprietor of Denby grange, sole heir to the estates of the families of Lister and Kaye, by will.” - Part of the parish of RochDALE, in Salford hundred, Lancashire, is in this wapentake. It contains the extensive and populous chapelry of Saddleworth with Quick. The population amounts to thirteen thousand nine hundred and two persons. . . - r 4 The church is a perpetual curacy, valued in the Liber regis at £108, Patron, the vicar of Rochdale. . . . - - This place gives name to a large valley, about seven miles long, and five broad in the broadest part, situate in an angle of the county between Lancashire and the § north-eastern projection of Cheshire. It is a wild, bleak region, of which a part only is under cultivation; but industry has accumulated in it a large number of Aº inhabitants, who gain a comfortable subsistence by the manufacture of woollen cloth, for which the place is peculiarly famous; indeed, many of the superfine broads made here vie with those of the west of England. A tradition prevails that Saddleworth derives its name from an ancient bargain by which one of its possessors sold the whole district for a saddle, hence called Saddleworth ; but it was not, we presume, says Mr. Baines, till it had attained an increased value, that the Stapletons sold º * Betham's Baronetage. Neale's Views. THE COUNTY OF York. 277 the manor to the Ramsdens; by whom it was sold to the Farrers and the Holts of Ashworth, the former of whom sold their share to the tenants. Putting out of consideration the apochryphal tradition of the saddle, property in this mountainous region has advanced in value within the last hundred and fifty years, in an incredible ratio, as the following facts will prove :—On the 9th of August, 1654, William Farrer, Esq., of Ewood, near Halifax, purchased a share of the lands of Saddle- CHAP. IX. worth from William Ramsden, Esq. of Longley-hall, for £2,950. These lands in 1775 brought in an annual rent of £1,500 to James Farrer, Esq. of Bamborough- grange. In 1780, he sold off land to the amount of £10,000, and by advancing the remainder, still kept up the rent of £1,500 a year. At his death, in 1791, it had increased to £2000 a year, much of it in lease for lives, and the estate being sold in small parcels to the occupiers and others, it produced nearly £70,000, making an actual profit in the sales, exclusive of the rents, of upwards of £77,000, upon less than a £3,000 purchase.” The number of woollen looms in Saddleworth, is about three thousand five hundred ; of cotton looms, from three to four hundred ; and there are about one hundred mills turned by the Tame and its tributary streams. Many of the superfine broad cloths made here vie with the cloths of the West of England, and are little inferior to those of the first Leeds manufactures. - Castle Shaw, in Saddleworth, exhibits the remains of an ancient fortification, and is supposed by Mr. Whitaker to have been a fortress of the provincial barons. It appears from the present elevation of the ground and the Husteads and Castle- hills, that the area of this ancient castle extended over several statute acres ; and round beads of the Britons have been dug up here of the same kind as those which have been discovered in the British barrows upon Salisbury plain. It is conjectured that a castrum at Castle Shaw, seated at the foot of Stanedge, within two furlongs of the Roman road to Slack, was a Roman station. The cutting of several turnpike roads within the last fifty years, through this vale, and the Huddersfield canal, which passes through the heart of Saddleworth, have tended very materially towards reclaiming large tracts of land for the purpose of cultivation, and giving facility to trade. This place is divided into four hamlets or quarters, called meres, viz., Quick-mere, Lord’s-mere, Shaw-mere, and Friar-mere. The latter was once an estate belonging to the Blackfriars, who had a house or grange near Delph. Saddleworth, though in this county, is in the parish of Rochdale, Lancashire, on account of Hugo de Stapleton, lord of the manor of Saddleworth, having applied to Hugh, earl of Chester, for leave to erect a chapel for the use of his tenants; to his permission, the earl made it a condition that the chapel should be annexed to * The land under cultivation in this district lets in small farms at from 20s. to 40s. all acre. . Some choice meadows will bring 5l. or 6l. , & WOL. III. - 4 B 278 *. HISTORY OF Book v1. Greenfield. Wakefield. the abbey of Whalley. On the dissolution of monasteries, this was annexed to Rochdale. & * - In this neighbourhood are the much frequented and celebrated rocks of Green- field, as well as several druidical remains, a rocking-stone, &c. of which, would our limits allow it, a particular description should be given. Mr. Bottomley has written a poem descriptive of the romantic and almost uninhabited part of this country. WAKEFIELD is a large and opulent town, delightfully situated” on the left bank of the Calder, in the centre of the parish and liberty to which it gives name: it is nine miles from Leeds, ten from Barnsley, and one hundred and eighty-seven from London. The streets are, for the most part, regular, handsome, and spacious, and the houses, which are principally of brick, are well built, large, and lofty. The market place, however, is very small and incommodious, and before the corn market was removed into Westgate, it was totally inadequate to the accommodation of a town of its present magnitude. In the centre of the market, there is a small cross, of the Doric order of architecture, with an open colonnade supporting a dome, with an ascent by an open staircase to a spacious room, which is lighted by a lantern in the dome, and in which room the commissioners of the streets hold their meet- ings, and other public business is transacted. Friday is the market day at Wakefield, and a great deal of business is done in corn and wool, the latter of which is sent here from various parts of the kingdom, to be disposed of by the factors to the manufacturers in the adjacent districts. The fortnight fairs for cattle, held here every alternate Wednesday, are much resorted to, and contribute to supply an extensive and populous country to the west with fat cattle, brought from the north, the south, and the east. - - In 1801, the total number of inhabitants in this town was eight thousand one hundred and thirty-one; in 1811, it had increased to eight thousand five hundred and ninety-three ; and in 1821, the return amounts to ten thousand seven hundred and sixty-four, inhabiting two thousand two hundred and twenty-three houses.'t The etymology of this place is probably derived from the appellation of the first Saxon possessor, combined with that of the estate which he possessed. Nothing Popula- tion. Etymo- logy. * The following instances of longevity prove that this town is one of the most healthy in the manu- facturing district of Yorkshire :—Mary Gummersell died here in 1763, aged one hundred and seven. . She was mother of fourteen children, grandmother to thirty-three, great grandmother to eighty-four, and great great grandmother to twenty-five; in all, one hundred and fifty-six descendants. Mary Hanshaw, aged one hundred and two, died in 1782. . She had been a widow upwards of fifty years, and her faculties were unimpaired to the last. Such was her health and activity, that when in her seventy- seventh year, she walked from Wakefield to London, a distance of one hundred and eighty-four miles, and returned again on foot. Mary Cousen died in 1790, aged one hundred and three ; and Mrs. Dawson died here in 1798, aged one hundred and one. * . . - t The entire parish contains twenty-two thousand three hundred and seven inhabitants. º THE COUNTY OF YORK. 279 & WaS more common at the time when the villare of this country was formed than to denominate whole townships by the terminating syllable, field. In Domesday book it is called Wachefeld.* ** - - - Leland's account of this town is lively as well as circumstantial,—“Wakefeld upon Calder ys a very quik market towne & meately large : well served of flesch & fische both from the se & by rivers, whereof divers be thereabout at hande. So that al vitaile is very good chepe there. A right honest man shal fare wel for 2 pens a meale. In this towne is but one chefe church. There is a chapel beside, where was wont to be anachoreta in media urbe, unde et aliquando inventa faecunda. There is also a chapel of Our Lady on Calder bridge, wont to be cele- brated a peregrinis. A forrow lenght or more out of the towne, be scene dikes, & bulwarkes, & monticulus egesta terra indicium turris specularis—wherby apperith that ther hath bene a castel. The Guarines, erles of Surrey, as I rede, were ons lordes of this towne. It standith now al by clothyng.” Again: “ These things I especially notid in Wakefeld. The faire bridge of stone, of nine arches, under the which rennith the ryver of Calder. And on the est side of this bridge is a right goodly chapel of Our Lady, and two cantuarie prestes foundid in it, of the fundation of the townesmen, as sum say: but the dukes of Yorke were taken as founders for obteyning the mortemayn. I hard one say that a servant of King Edwardes [the fourth’s] father, or els of the erle of Rutheland, brother to King Edwarde the 4th, was a great doer of it. There was a sore batell faught in the south feeldes by this bridge; and yn the flite of the duke of Yorkes parte, other the duke hymself or his sun therle of Rutheland, was slayne a litle above the barres, beyond the bridge, going up into the toune of Wakefeld that standith ful fairely upon a clyving ground. At this place is set up a crosse in rei memoriam. The commune saying is there, that the erle wold have taken ther a poore woman's house for socour, and she for fere shet the dore, and strait the erle was killid. The Lord * Fuller, in his account of the Worthies of Yorkshire, calls this town “Merry Wakefield,” and says—“ what peculiar cause of mirth this town hath above others I do not know, and dare not too curiously inquire, lest I should turn their mirth among themselves into anger against me. Sure it is Seated in a fruitful soil and cheap country; and where good cheer and company are the premises, mirth (in common consequence) will be the conclusion: which, if it doth not trespass in time, cause, and measure, Heraclitus, the sad philosopher, may perchance condemn, but Saint Hilary, the good father, will surely allow.” : -. “One source of the ‘merriment of Wakefield which prevailed in Fuller's time, was, the great abundance of barley grown, and of malt manufactured, in the neighbourhood. To the labouring classes no beverage is equally wholesome ; nor is the excess to which such persons are and always have been addicted in the use of malt liquor, attended with those fatal consequences, either to the constitution of mind, or body, which follow the prevailing consumption of distilled fluids. When these have Superseded, or have even been superadded to the former, among the working poor, I should, as far as their habits gave a character to the place, pronounce it not merry, but mad.”—Whitaker. CHAP. IX. Leland's Survey. 280 - HISTORY OF Clifford, for killing of men at this batail, was caullid the boucher. The principale church that now is yn Wakefeld is but of a new work, but it is exceding faire and large. Sum think, that weras now, is a chapelle of ease at the other ende of the toune, was ons the old paroch chirch. The vicarage at the este ende of the chirch garth is larg and fair. It was the personage house not very many yeres syns: for he that now lyvith is the 4 or 5 vicare that hath been there. Afore the im- propriation of this benefice to S. Stephane college at Westminster, the personage was a great lyving, yn so much that one of the erles Warines, lordes of Wakefeld, and much of the cuntery thereabout, did give the personage to a sunne or nere kinsman of his, and he made the most parte of the house wher the vicarage now is. A quarter of a mile withowte Wakefeld apperith an hille of erth caste up, wher sum say that of Erles Warines began to build, and as faste as he buildid, violence of winde defacid the work. This is like "a fable. Sum say that it was nothing but a winde mille hille. The place is now caull'd Lohille. The toune of Wakefeld streachith out al in lenght by est and west, and hath a faire area for a market place. The building of the toune is meately faire, most of tymbre, but sum of stone. Al the hole profite of the toune stondith by course drapery. Ther be few tounes yn the inwarde partes of Yorkshire, that hath a fairer site or soile about it. Ther be plenty of veines of se cole in the quarters about Wakefeld.” The manor of Wakefield is very extensive, including the parish of Halifax, and stretching from Normanton westward to the verge of Lancashire. It is more than thirty miles in length from east to west, and comprises upwards of one hundred and fifty towns, villages, and hamlets, of , which Wakefield and Halifax are the chief; and upwards of one hundred and twenty thousand inhabitants (about one- eighth of the whole population of Yorkshire). It appears from Domesday book to have been part of the royal demesnes of Edward the Confessor, and at the time of the survey it belonged to the crown. How long it continued in the hands of the king is uncertain ; some assert that William I. who settled most of the lands in the kingdom on his Norman followers, gave it as a portion with his daughter Gundred to William earl of Warren. Others, with greater probability, say that it remained annexed to the crown till the reign of Henry I. who granted it to William earl of Warren and Surrey, in 1116. But the first certain account we have of these matters is in the ninth year of Edward I. when John de Warren, earl of Surrey, was summoned to answer before the pleas of assizes and jurats at Scarborough, by what right he appropriated to himself inter alia—among others, the divisions of Halifax, Skircote, Ovendon, Haldesworth, Saltonshall, Midgeley, Wadesworth; Heptonstall, Rottenstall, Stansfield, and Langfield. The earl answered, that he BOOK WI. Manor. * Vol. i. p. 35. THE COUNTY OF YORK, 281 claimed no forest in the aforesaid lands, but that he and his ancestors, from time immemorial, had enjoyed the privilege of free chase in the same, as well in fees as in demesne lands, unless some interruption had happened in time of war, or when he, or some of his ancestors, were in wardship to the kings of England. He also claimed to have free warren, as well in his fees as in demesne lands, which he had of ancient tenure, viz. in Soland, Halifax, Heptonstall, Rastrick, Langfield, Midgley, Skircote, Saltonstall, Ovenden, Haldesworth, Wadsworth, Routonstall, Stansfield, Norland, Hipperholme, Northouram, Shipden, Rishworth, &c.; that he, and all his ancestors, had used free warren in the said lands from time immemorial. He also produced a charter of Henry III, dated the 27th of January, in the thirty- seventh year of his reign, by which that monarch granted him free warren in all his demesne lands which he then had or should acquire. Upon an inquisition taken afterwards, it does not appear that any thing was found for the king. John, the last earl of Warren and Surrey, having no lawful issue, gave all his honours, castles, manors, lands, and tenements, to King Edward II. in the year 1316, with the view of obtaining a regrant to his unlawful issue, as has been noticed under the account of Coningsborough. In 1318, Earl Warren, by virtue of a license from the king, did grant the manor of Wakefield to Thomas earl of Lancaster, grandson of Henry III. during the term of the natural life of the said Earl Warren; but he enjoyed it only about three years, for being leader of the barons at that time associated against the king, he was taken prisoner near Boroughbridge, and be- headed at Pontefract on the 25th of March, 1322. The manor of Wakefield now came again into the hands of the earl of Warren, who held it till his death, which happened in 1347. Maud and her two sons by the above named earl all died without any other issue, in the life-time of Earl Warren; on which account, at his death, the manor, with its appendages, came to the crown in the person of Edward III. who, in 1362, created his fifth son, Edmund de Langley, earl of Cam- bridge, and gave him all the castles, manors, and lands beyond the Trent, which had formerly belonged to John de Warren, earl of Surrey. In consequence of the surrenders which the last earl of Warren and Surrey made to the crown of his estates, Edmund de Langley had a grant in special tail from his father, dated the twenty-first year of Edward III. of all the castles, manors, and lands beyond Trent, that formerly belonged to John de Warren, earl of Surrey; but on account of his minority, for he was then but six years of age, Queen Philippa, his mother, received the profits for the maintenance and education of him and her other sons. This Edmund was afterwards, by his nephew, King Richard II. created duke of York, and died August 1st, the third year of Henry IV. A. D. 1402, seized inter alia– among others, of the manors of Coningsborough, Sandal, Hatfield, Thorne, Fish- lake, Holmefrith, and Sowerby, and likewise of the manor and lordship of t VOL. III. 4 C CHAP. IX. 282 - HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Battle of Wakefield. Wakefield, including that of Halifax, leaving Edward, earl of Rutland, his son and heir.” This Edward perished in the battle of Agincourt, in the year 1415, and dying without issue male, his honours and estates devolved on his nephew, Richard duke of York, son of his brother, Richard duke of Cambridge, who was beheaded in the same year, 1415, for a conspiracy against Henry V. Richard, the last mentioned duke of York, and father of Edward IV. was killed at the battle of Wakefield in 1460. Of this sanguinary conflict, the most important public transaction that ever took place in this neighbourhood, a full account has been given in the historical part of this work,+ The memorable battle of Wakefield was fought on the last day of December, in the year 1460. It seemed to have confirmed the power of the Lancastrians; but it proved only a prelude to their destruction; for the battle of Towton on Palm Sunday, the 29th of March, in the following year, avenged the death of the duke of York, and placed the crown on the head of his son the earl of March, afterwards known by the name of Edward IV. y 4 In consequence of the death of Richard, duke of York, the manor of Wakefield came to the crown in the person of his son, Edward IV. From this time it con- tinued in the possession of the kings of England till the year 1554, the time of the marriage of Philip and Mary, when it was united to the duchy of Lancaster. In the reign of Charles I. it was granted to Henry, earl of Holland, who was Church. beheaded on the 9th of March, 1649, by a sentence of the high court of justice, for attempting to restore Charles II. The manor afterwards went to Sir Gervase Clifton, Bart. in consequence of his marriage with the daughter of Robert Rich, earl of Warwick, to whom it seems to have been granted. Sir Gervase Clifton sold the manor of Wakefield to Sir Christopher Clapham, about the year 1663. And in 1700, the heirs of Sir Christopher Clapham sold it to the duke of Leeds, in whose illustrious family it still continues. At the time of the Domesday survey, Wakefield, with its dependencies, was in the hands of the crown. In this extensive manor there were two churches and three priests. “The churches may,” says Dr. Whitaker, “without the slightest hesi- tation, be assigned to Wakefield and Sandal; and as we know that a chapel existed at Horbury within fifty years from this time, and as chapels are never mentioned in Domesday, the presumption is, that the third priest ministered at that place. I am further persuaded, that although the church of Wakefield was in existence in the Conqueror's reign, it was not one of the original Saxon churches, of which, in the hundred of Morley, there were only two, namely, Morley itself, the hundred church, and Deusbury, the known parent of four later parishes in this hundred, * Dugdale's Bar. p. 155. - w + Vide vol. i. p. 86. * * * * * * *. THE county of York. º 283 besides three in Agbridge.” It has been satisfactorily proved that Wakefield belongs not to the first class of the Saxon churches, but also that (at whatever period) it was taken out of the original parish of Morley. Previous to 1349 the benefice of this church was a rectory. Since that time it has been a vicarage, to which the king has the right of presentation. It is valued in the Liber regis at £29.19s. 2d. & - The time when this church was erected is uncertain; but Domesday book ex- pressly says, that “In Wachfield cum movem berewicis, Sandala, Sorebi, &c. sunt duo Ecclesiae ”—In Wakefield and its nine berewicks, Sandal, Sowerby, &c. there are two churches. And Mr. Watson observes, “that it is very clear that the churches of Wakefield and Sandal were at that time subsisting.” But although there appears to have been a church at Wakefield at the time of the conquest, no part of the present structure can be referred to a more early period than the reign of Henry III. and it has undergone many modern repairs and improvements. In plan it consists of a nave and aisles, chancel and aisles, and an embattled tower and spire at the west end. In 1724 the south side of the edifice was entirely rebuilt. The greatest part of the north side, together with the east end, was also rebuilt towards the end of the last century; and an elegant vestry room has likewise been erected. The length of the church is one hundred and fifty-six feet, and its breadth sixty-nine. The tower and spire is two hundred and thirty-seven feet in height. The interior is very handsome, the nave being divided from the aisles by three pointed arches. The screen dividing the nave from the chancel is very handsome.* •, - * About half a mile further to the north is St. John’s church, erected towards the close of the eighteenth century. The ground on which it stands was bequeathed for that purpose by Mrs. Newstead, a widow lady, together with £1000 towards the support of a minister. But, in consequence of a troublesome litigation, the matter for some time lay dormant, until the whole property of the testatrix was CHAP. IX. St. John's church. purchased by Messrs. Maude and Lee ; who, in concurrence with some other opulent and disinterested persons, procured an act of parliament for building the church. The first stone was laid by the Rev. Henry Zouch, of Sandal. It is an elegant edifice, situate in the centre of a square. The body has several Doric pilasters at each side, and is finished by a ballustrade parapet with urns at regular intervals. At the west end is a tower of several stories, terminating in a small cupola adorned with Ionic columns, &c. The interior is neat, and at the end, * Watson's Hist. Halifax, p. 331. t For an account of the monuments in ...this church, see Sisson’s Historic Sketch of Wakefield Church, p. 71. - - 284. - HISTORY OF * 2 * IBOOK WI. Chapels. Grammar school. Lunatic asylum. which is semicircular, are three fresco paintings of the Passion in the Garden, Crucifixion, and Ascension. w - In the beauties of situation, the elegance of the buildings, and the tasteful arrangement of the whole plan, few places can boast of any thing superior to this part of Wakefield. The surrounding ranges of houses display, both in parts and in the whole, a pleasing and uniform elegance; the situation, crowning the top of the eminence, from which the town slopes gently southward to the Calder, is elevated and healthful, and commands prospects of the most agreeable nature; on the western side, in particular, is beautiful and delightful scenery. - The chapels in this town are very numerous. The Independents have three meeting houses,—two in George street, erected in 1782 and 1799, and one in Quebec street. The Unitarian chapel is in Westgate; the Catholic, a new building erected in 1828, in Wentworth terrace; and the Friends’ meeting-house is in Thornhill street. The Wesleyan Methodist chapels are large and handsome; one was built in 1819, at East moor, and the other in 1828, at Westgate end. The Primitive Methodists have a good chapel in Quebec street; it was built in 1823. The religious and charitable societies here are very numerous and well supported. In this town is a free grammar-school, founded and endowed by Queen Elizabeth, but much improved by private benefactions. The school-house is a noble and spacious building, erected by the Savilles, ancestors of the earl of Mexborough, and is situate near the church. Here is also a charity school, founded for the instruction and clothing of one hundred and six poor boys and girls of Wakefield; two national schools, established in 1813, a Lancasterian school, and School of industry, with seven Sunday schools; in the latter, nearly one thousand seven hundred children receive instruction. The charitable donations to this town, indeed, are very considerable, amounting, it is said, to not less than £1000 per annum, and are under the direction of fourteen trustees, called governors. They are applied to the maintenance of certain students in the two universities, to the apprenticing poor boys to various trades, to the support of old and infirm persons, and to other charitable purposés, according to the discretion of the governors. At this school was educated Dr. John Radcliffe, a native of this town, and the munifi- cent founder of the library at Oxford which bears his name. He died Nov. 1, 1714. - g Among the charitable institutions, are the Lunatic Asylum, the Dispensary, and the House of Recovery. The Lunatic Asylum, on East moor, for the reception of paupers labouring under the deprivation of reason, is a very commodious building, and from its exterior appearance, and its interior management, is an ornament to the town, and an honour to the riding; W. C. Ellis, M.D. is the director. The expense of this establishment, (exclusive of the parochial payments,) from April 10, E. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 285. 1820, to April 30, 1821, amounted to £728, 13s. 7d. These ample premises are capable of accommodating two hundred and fifty patients. The townships from whence the patients are sent defray the expense of their support; and since the establishment was opened on the 23d of November, 1818, seventy-three patients have been cured, thirty-four have died, and four have been sent home to their friends as improper objects. On the 5th of November, 1821, there remained in the house under cure, one hundred and fifty-two patients. The Dispensary is situate in Wood street, and the House of Recovery (esta- blished in 1826) on Westgate common. g The Court House is an elegant and commodious structure, situate in Wood street, in which the quarter sessions of the riding are held once in the year, and where the West riding magistrates in the neighbourhood assemble weekly to dispense justice. It is one of the best structures in the town. In front is a noble portico of four fluted Doric columns, supporting an entablature and pediment. Within the latter are the royal arms, and on the apex a figure of Justice. The entire edifice is an ornament to the town. Near this are the Public Buildings, very neat, with a rustic basement, and attached Ionic columns to the upper story. This edifice was built by subscription, and contains a library and news room on the basement story, the upper portion being appropriated to concerts, assemblies, and other public amuse- ments. - r & The Tammy hall, for the exposure and sale of woollen stuffs, is situate in Wood street, but it is now little used, that part of the trade having been removed partly to Halifax, but principally to Bradford. The Corn Exchange, lately erected, is situate at the top of Westgate, and is well calculated for the extensive transactions of a market, which ranks amongst the first in the north of England. The fortnight fair for cattle is held in the Upper Ings, where ample accommodation is provided. The theatre, which is situate in Westgate, was erected by the late Tate Wilkinson, Esq. The House of Correction, which is the gaol of the West riding, stands at the bottom of Westgate, and from the increasing population of this division of Yorkshire, as much as from the increase of crime, is generally filled with inmates. The expense of this establishment, from April 10, 1820, to April 30, 1821, amounted to £4918. 10s. 9%d.; Mr. James Sheppard is the governor, and this prison has the reputation of being well conducted. Its limits are, however, too circumscribed for its popula- tion, and an enlargement is now taking place, with a view to the improvement of the prison, and the more convenient classification of the prisoners, the expense of which is estimated at £25,000. At the south-east entrance into Wakefield is a handsome stone bridge of eight arches, over the Calder. It was built in the reign of Edward III. and is a fine WOL. III. } 4 D CHAP. i X. Dispen- sary. Court house. Public buildings. Tammy hall. House of correction. Bridge chapel. 286 - HISTORY OF RO OK WI. Heselden hall. Hebble canal. specimen of the masonry of that age. In the centre of this bridge, projecting from the eastern side, and resting partly on the starlings, is an ancient chapel, built in the richest style of pointed architecture. This most beautiful structure is ten yards in length, and about eight in breadth. The east window, overhanging the river, is adorned with various and beautiful tracery, and the parapets perforated. The windows on the north and south sides are equally rich. But the west front, facing the passage over the bridge, exceeds all the rest in profusion of ornament, being divided by buttresses into compartments forming recesses, with crocketed pedi- ments and pointed arches, having spandrils enriched with crockets; and above is an entablature, supporting five basso relievos, the whole being crowned with battle- ments. This chapel was built by Edward IV. in memory of his father, Richard, duke of York, and those of his party who fell in the battle of Wakefield. It appears, however, that a chantry chapel had been built on this bridge as early as the reign of Edward III. and dedicated to St. Mary, but it was undoubtedly re-edified and embellished by Edward IV. who, on this account, may be regarded as the founder of the present edifice.* - - - - - At the northern extremity of the town is Heselden hall, a very ancient edifice, though the front towards the street is modern. The interior part is of wood, and has the date of 1583. The hall, now divided, and much mutilated, has a fine timber roof. Wakefield now, as in the time of Leland, still “stondith by clothyng.” Like Leeds, it is situate on the edge of a manufacturing district, of which the Calder There forms the eastern boundary. Scarcely a single woollen manufacture is found to the east of Wakefield. The trade of the town, particularly in corn, is greatly improved by its navigation. The river was rendered navigable to Wakefield in the year 1698, and in 1760, its navigation was extended to Salter Hebble, Ilear Halifax. . - - This latter navigation was formed by means of an act of parliament, passed in the reign of George III. Its general direction is west, about twenty-three miles in length ; and has a considerable elevation above the sea at its west end; the general objects are the communication between Liverpool, Manchester, and Hull, by means of the Rochdale and Huddersfield canals, and the Aire and Calder rivers. This navigation commences in the Aire and Calder navigation on the latter river at Wakefield, and terminates in the Rochdale canal at Sowerby bridge. There are several railway branches to different collieries, and a navigable cut of about half a mile in length, by the side of the Hebble river to Salter Hebble, and also one to * Mr. Scatcherd, in an interesting Dissertation on ancient bridges and bridge chapels, considers that the report made to Leland of this chapel having been “of the foundation of the townsmen,” was the true story. . . • * . . - - - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 287 Bargh mill. There are several locks; one of them, near Salter Hebble, often or CHAP. IX. twelve feet rise, was removed in 1783, and two new ones of half that height, with a basin between them, were substituted by Mr. William Jessop. This navigation was planned or superintended by Mr. James Brindley, and afterwards by Mr. John Smeaton. On the portion of the river Calder in this navigation, the fall of the river is no less than eight feet per mile for twenty miles. By the act of the 34th of George III. for the protection of the Huddersfield canal, this navigation was guaranteed against a diminution of its tolls by any other communication to the eastward being opened therewith. - & The township of Alverthorpe with Thornes, has a population of four thousand Alver- four hundred and forty-eight persons. In each of these villages are new churches, thorpe. erected by the commissioners. Alverthorpe church is a large edifice of stone, with a tower at the west end, and a small vestry at the other extremity. It is of pointed architecture, but the details are very incorrect. The first stone was laid on the 12th of March, 1823, and the church was completed in 1826. It will contain one thousand five hundred and ninety persons, eight hundred and thirty- two of whom are accommodated with free seats. The contract was £7828. 16s. 8d.: and the architects, Messrs. Atkinson and Sharpe. A free-school was erected here in 1788. Silscoat house, an ancient mansion, is now occupied as the Yorkshire Dissenters' Silscoat grammar-school, an establishment of much importance and utility. house. Thornes church, erected by the same architects as the last-mentioned church, Thomes. is a small edifice with a mean cupola. The first stone was laid on the 12th of August, 1829, and it was consecrated in 1830. The contract amounted to £2,038. 17s.6d. ; and the number that can be accommodated, is three hundred and twenty in pews, and two hundred and fifty in free seats. The chapelry of Horbury has a population of two thousand four hundred and Horbury. seventy-five persons. * t The benefice is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Peter, in the patronage of the vicar of Wakefield. \ - - - The present chapel was built in 1791, by the late Mr. John Carr, a native of Chapel. this place, and an architect at York, at an expense of £8000, leaving behind him a monument at once of his skill and bounty. It is of Grecian architecture, and has a good tower and spire. Nº. \ The township of Stanley with Wrenthorpe, has a population of four thousand Stanley - six hundred and twenty persons. At Stanley-lane-end is a neat church of pointed sºren- architecture, erected by the parliamentary commissioners. It is situate on an - eminence, and has two octagonal turrets at the west end. The first stone was laid on the 13th of September, 1821, and the church was consecrated in 1825. *-*. 288 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Warmfield School. Heathhall. Shorlston. East Ards- ley. The contract amounted to £12,191. 0s. 8d.; and the architects were Messrs. Atkinson and Sharpe. It will hold seven hundred and seventy-three persons iń pews, and seven hundred and twenty-four in free seats. : - Here is the field, famed in ancient story, where “all on the green,” Robin Hood, Little John, and Scarlet, fought the Pinder of Wakefield; the place is yet called Pinder's field. Here was a Roman station, where several Roman coins have at different times been found. e 4. At Lingwell gate, in this township, were found, in 1697, certain clay moulds for Roman coins, all of such emperors in whose reigns the money is known to have been counterfeited. This place takes its name from the Lingones, quartered at Olicana, Ilkley, and Wall, a corruption of vallum.* In March, 1821, Mr. Pitts, of Wakefield, presented to the Society of Antiquaries a number of clay moulds, similar to the above, which were found at Lingwell-gate, in a field in the occupation of Mr. Spurr; there were turned up with a ploughshare as many as would fill a wheelbarrow. Several coins were found in the moulds. He also sent the Society sixteen Roman copper coins, found in an earthen vessel, in a field, about a mile from Lingwell-gate, on the estate of the marquess of Hertford. . igº * The parish town of WARMFIELD, with Heath, has a population of seven hundred and forty-one persons. The town is situate four miles from Wakefield. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £5.4s.2d. It is in the patronage of nine trustees of the Rev. Barnabas Oley. Here is a school, founded and endowed by Dame Mary Bowles, of Heath hall, in 1660, for educating and apprenticing children. And an hospital for seven men and a matron, to be chosen from the parishes of Warmfield and Normanton alter- nately; founded and endowed by John Freston, in 1591: and another hospital for four old widows, founded by Mr. Oles Sagar, about 1558. Heath hall, situate north of the Calder, and embosomed in beautiful woods, is an ancient mansion, now in the occupation of G. Hardy, Esq. - The township of Shorlston has a population of three hundred and thirty souls. R. Atkins, Esq. has a neat seat in this village. w The parish of EAST ARDSLEY is situate on the high road from Wakefield to Bradford, being distant from the former town three miles and a half. It has a population of eight hundred and thirty-two persons. f - The benefice, a perpetual curacy, valued in the Liber regis at £27, is in the patronage of the earl of Cardigan. The church is a small but neat edifice, and contains few objects worthy of notice. ſº- * Gough's Camden. + Wide his Letter in Archæologia, vol. xvii. and Appendix to ditto, vol. xix. f Population of the entire parish, one thousand and seventy-one. \| N \| \\\\\\ \ \\ N ºº - \ w - N º W º º - º m º * - - º - - º */e */ THE COUNTY OF YORK. - 289 WEST ARDSLEY, near the last village, has a population of one thousand five hun- dred and fifteen persons. The church is a perpetual curacy, of the clear value of £31. 5s. It is in the patronage of the earl of Cardigan. The parish town of BATLEy” is situate two miles and a half from Dewsbury. It has a population of three thousand seven hundred and seventeen persons. The benefice is a vicarage, dedicated to All Saints, and valued in the parlia- mentary return at £150. It is in the alternate presentation of lords De Grey and Cardigan. The church was granted to the canons of St. Oswald, of Nostal, and confirmed by Henry I. Not a vestige of the original structure remains, the whole having been rebuilt about the time of Henry VI. A chapel on the north side of the chancel belongs to Howley hall. This church is adorned with several monuments of the Savilles, Fitzwilliams, Ellands, Copleys, &c.f. g Here is a free-school, founded in the 10th year of James I. by the Rev. William Lee, vicar of Stapleford, Cambridgeshire, who was a native of this place, for the purpose of teaching the children to read English and write, also to instruct them in Latin. He endowed it with an estate, which he conveyed to certain trustees in his life-time. This school was handsomely rebuilt in 1818, out of monies arising from the estate. - * - The township of Morley, partly situate in a valley, was formerly one of the chief towns in the wapentake, but it is now only known as a populous clothing village, containing three thousand and thirty one souls. At the time of the Domes- day survey, Morley had a parish church, but it was reduced by Robert de Lacy to the dependent state of a chapel to Batley soon after the conquest. In the time of Charles I, this chapel ceased to be an episcopal place of worship, and was leased out by Savile, earl of Sussex, for five hundred years, to a number of trustees of the Presbyterian persuasion, and ever since that time it has been used as a dissenting CHAP. IX, Batley. Church. Free- school. Morley. place of worship, formerly by the Unitarians, but latterly by the Calvinistic dis- senters. Morley is said to exhibit the only instance, throughout England or Wales, of an ancient established place of worship which was not restored to the established church at the restoration of the Stuarts. Still it retains much of the form of a ‘church, and has a chancel and two side aisles, supported upon wooden posterns instead of columns; “ but,” says the late Dr. Whitaker, “marking the hands into which it has fallen by sectarian frugality and indigence.” The Doctor should rather have said, exhibiting the distinction which often exists in villages, between places of worship which are supported and upheld by private contributions, * The field of Batt or Batta, a surname which remained long after the extinction of the Saxon language. - - - * Loidis and Elmete. WOL. III. 4 E. 290 .* HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Church. Howley hall. * and those which derive their supplies from the public purse. South of the chapel is a large square mausoleum, erected by Miss Norrison about seventy years ago. Norrison Scatcherd, Esq. has a neat mansion here. A new and elegant church has been erected here by the commissioners. It is of pointed architecture, in the style of the 13th century, but of the plainest class. The windows are lancet-headed and single; the three chancel windows are united by a moulding, and the apex of the façade is terminated by a wheel-cross. The tower, which is low, is surmounted by an elegantly-proportioned spire, with a cross. and dove, forming a handsome termination thereto. The height, from the ground- floor to the summit of the stone work, is one hundred and ten feet. The accommo- dation afforded to the inhabitants is one thousand sittings, of which four hundred and seventy-eight are free seats; and all at the moderate cost of £2,954. 3s. 11d. The commissioners have made a further grant of £50 towards enclosing the site. The first stone was laid on the 25th of June, 1829, and the building was to have been completed on the 10th of September, 1830. It was consecrated August 30, 1830. R. D. Chantrell, Esq. of Leeds, was the architect. The site for the new building, one statute acre in extent, and another acre of land for the parsonage-house, were the gift of the earl of Dartmouth. . In this township is Howley, (the field on the hill,) which, for several generations, was the magnificent seat of an illegitimate branch of the Saviles, though, by address and court favour, they outstript the heads of the family for a time in honour. It was built upon a fine commanding situation, by Sir John Savile, afterwards Baron Savile, of Pontefract, and finished in 1590, but received considerable additions from his son, the first earl of Sussex of that name. Camden, who saw the house when new, calls it ades elegantissimas. - At this time the more ancient mansion of the Mirfields, situate about two hun- dred yards to the north-west, was abandoned for a bolder and more commanding site. Part of this is still preserved in outhouses and offices; and one part, which appears to have been the chapel, exhibits some appearances of considerable anti- quity. , “ . . . . . . . Neither the exact period of the death nor the place of interment of Thomas Savile, first and last earl of Sussex, of that name, is known; but after his decease, Howley was little frequented by the Brudenell family, who succeeded to the estate by marriage; and about the year 1730, an agent, named Christopher Hodson, pre- vailed on the then earl of Cardigan, by false representations, to give orders for the demolition of this magnificent fabric, which was carried into execution, with the exception of some vast fragments of massy grout-work at the angles. The rest was blown up with gunpowder. Here tradition states that Rubens visited Lord Savile, and painted for him a THE COUNTY OF York. 291. view of Pontefract, a subject altogether unworthy of such a pencil; and here. CHAP. IX. Archbishop Usher condescended to assume the disguise of a jesuit, in order to try the controversial talents of Robert Cooke, the learned vicar of Leeds. During the civil war Howley hall was held for the king, and was stormed and plundered by the opposite party. On the demolition of Howley hall the wainscot was sold about the country; and in the year 1787, many rooms remained in Wakefield fitted up with wainscot brought, from Howley, and bearing date 1590. The presbyterian meeting-house at Bradford was also fitted up with wainscot brought from this place. . . . s - - Sir John Savile, the builder of this house, who lived to enjoy his own work forty years, patronized the town of Leeds, where he became the first alderman under the original charter, and seems to have been held in great respect. * The township of Churwell (which is situate in Morley wapentake) has a popu- Churwell. lation of eight hundred and fourteen persons. - - - Gildersome chapelry is also in Morley wapentake, it has a population of one Gilder- thousand five hundred and ninety-two persons. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, “” valued in the parliamentary returns at £102. -. The parish of CROFTON, three miles and a half east of Wakefield, has a popu- Crofton, lation of four hundred and fifty-nine persons. The benefice is a rectory, dedicated to All Saints, and valued in the Liber regis at £10,0s. 23d. It is in the patronage of the crown. The church, a neat edifice of the fifteenth century, has a good tower in the centre. - 2^ Here was born Richard Fleming, founder of Lincoln college, Oxford : in 1406, he was prebendary of South Newbald, and in 1407, served the office of proctor at Oxford; in 1415, he exchanged South Newbald for Langtoft, and in 1420, was advanced to the see of Lincoln, by favour of Henry V. He died at Sleaford, 1430-31. He was named by Pope Martin to the vacant bishopric of York, about 1426; but the appointment was frustrated by the king, and dean and chapter. He was, for some time, zealous in supporting Wycliffe's doctrines, which afterwards, however, he as strenuously opposed.* Dewsbury is an ancient and an extensive parish, tº the town being situate five Dewsbury * Biog. Dict. - * t “We are now arrived,” says Dr. Whitaker, “at the common centre from which the light of christianity diverged over all the vale of Calder to the north, and to the east and west far beyond it, the common parent of the parishes of Thornhill and Burton, which are known to have existed in the time of the Conqueror, and of those of Almondbury, Kirkheaton, Huddersfield, and Bradford, all which continue to attest their ancient dependence by prescriptive payments to the incumbent of the mother church; to which may be added, on the clearest evidence, those of Halifax and Mirfield, though they have either ceased to pay such an acknowledgment, or were not originally charged with it. The whole of the Saxon parish of Dewsbury may be estimated at an area of four hundred miles. In all these 292 - i HISTORY OF * Book VI. **** miles west of Wakefield. In 1821 this parish contained sixteen thousand two hundred and sixty-one persons, of whom one thousand three hundred and eighty-six were residents in the township of Dewsbury. The town is very pleasantly situate, partly on the south-eastern declivity of a gently rising eminence, and partly in the vale below, very near the north bank of the Calder. The chief manufactures in this parish are those of blankets and coarse broad cloths. In this neighbourhood the manufacturing business is carried on with the same spirit as at Huddersfield § and Halifax. Ancient CFOSS, A market is held here every Wednesday, and fairs on the Wednesday before new Michaelmas day, Oct. 5, and the Wednesday before old May day. The benefice is a vicarage, dedicated to All Saints, and valued in the Liber regis at £22. 13s. 9d, Patron, the king. --- An opinion has obtained currency, that the parish church of Dewsbury was built during the missionary labours of Paulinus. This opinion Dr. Whitaker combats in his “Loidis and Elmete;” he, however, maintains that though the personal ministry of Paulinus was not immediately followed by the erection of churches, yet that this apostle of Northumbria erected crosses, and it is probable that the present parish church of Dewsbury stands upon the site of one of these Saxon edifices. The following inscription is placed on a cross which at present stands at the east end of the chancel, on the outside of the church—“ Pavlin vs hic pradicavit et celebravit, A. D. 627.” This is, however, not the identical Saxon wheel cross, but a facsimile of it, made probably from Camden's traditionary copy. —Some years ago there was found in making an excavation on the estate of Mr. Halliley, an old iron spear in good preservation, supposed to be Roman; and in | circumstances it forms an exact counterpart to the original parish of Whalley. The two churches were placed in the first expansion of their respective valleys, that of East and West Calder; their parishes embraced a vast extent of waste, both in hill and dale, along the course of which cultivation crept gradually upward till it met on the confines of the counties of York and Lancaster. The point at which the two original parishes touch is about twenty-three miles from Dewsbury, and fourteen from Whalley ; and in one direction the parish of Whalley alone interposed between º of Dewsbury and Lancaster, which are distant, in a right line, sixty miles from each : so thinly was the seed of christianity sown in the infancy of the Saxon church, and so exactly do appearances and local memo- rials accord with the account which Bede gave in his celebrated epistle to Archbishop Egbert of the state of religion in Northumbria. At that time all tithes were payable to the bishop of the diocese, and though strictly exacted in the remotest parts, that venerable man freely tells his metropolitan, that those parts were almost utterly destitute of spiritual assistance, not from bishops only, but presbyters. The date of this epistle is generally understood to be the year of Bede's death, or A. D. 734; yet we are not to understand this censure as implying that there were then no churches in these neglected parts of the diocese of York, but that the bishops, not only neglected to visit in person, but to send out presbyters from the episcopal college, which was then maintained from the general fund of the diocesan tithes, to perform their functions in them.” - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 293 the spring of the year 1821, in digging foundations for an erection, was found en- closed in a small building of stone about five feet square, covered with a strong arch of stone, about three feet below the surface, an ancient jug or pitcher, of small size, supposed also to be Roman; at the same time was found, and within four yards of the above, an ancient well, walled round with stone, about eight yards. deep, filled up with rubble stones, which has since been cleaned out, but nothing particular discovered. In the year 1766 and 1767, the walls of the church gave way, and were pulled down; but with a laudable regard to the preservation of the pro- ductions of antiquity, all the inside of the church which could be preserved, was permitted to stand. This partial demolition brought to light, not the original cross of Paulinus, but some remnants, probably of equal antiquity, (amongst the most singular and valuable of which is part of a Saxon tomb); these are now deposited in the garden of the vicarage house.* - - - The church is a tolerably large edifice, comprising a nave and aisles, chancel, with an octagonal vestry on the north side, and a tower, finished with pinnacles, at the west end. In the interior, the nave is divided from the aisles by four pointed arches, resting on columns, formed by a union of five cylinders. Over the com- munion table is a painting of the Resurrection. On the north side of the church is an old building, now used as a malt-house, the architecture of which is coeval with the church. - Antiquaries supposed the name Dewsbury to be derived from the original planter of the village, Dui or Dew, who, previous to the arrival of Paulinus, had fixed his abode and fortified his “burgh.” This supposition does not derive much countenance from Domesday book, in which this town is written “Dewsberia.” Another conjecture holds, that the original name is Dewsborough, or God’s Town. A superstitious practice of considerable antiquity still exists here, which consists in ringing the large bell of the church at midnight on Christmas eve, and this knell is called “ the devil’s passing bell.” - - On Dewsbury moor is St. John's church, erected by the commissioners. It is of “carpenter's Gothic,” and comprises a body and aisles, and a tower at the west end. The latter is embattled, and has pinnacles. The first stone of this edifice was laid on Aug. 7, 1823, and it was completed in 1828, from the design of J. Taylor, Esq. of Leeds. It will hold three hundred and fifty-two in pews, and two hun- dred and forty-eight in free seats. The contract amounted to £5,502. 16s. 8d. Exclusive of the churches belonging to the establishment, there are two chapels of the Wesleyan Methodist connexion, one belonging to the Primitive Methodists, an Independent chapel, and a Friends’ meeting-house. Here are two free-schools • Engraved in Whitaker's Loidis and Elmete, vol. ii. p. 301. WOL. III. 4 F : CHAP. IX. Church. Etymo- logy. St. John’s church. Chapels. 294 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. OSSett. Soothill. Earls Heaton. - for boys and girls, and one school where the national system of education prevails, with several Sunday-schools, in which one thousand seven hundred and twenty children receive the rudiments of education. . . . . . For some years this place has been again rising into consequence. It can now boast many extensive manufacturing establishments of blankets, woollen cloths, and carpets; and the population, as well as the wealth of the town, is rapidly on the increase. . . . , - s - - * Dewsbury is admirably situate for its inland navigation, which extends along the whole of the navigable part of the river Calder, and affords a canal communication to Huddersfield, from which goods are forwarded to Manchester and to the Western Sea with great despatch and regularity. Within the last few years, a fine spacious new road has been cut at great expense by a number of public-spirited inhabitants, from Dewsbury to Leeds. . . . . . . . - - The township of Ossett has a population of four thousand seven hundred and seventy-five souls. Here is an episcopal chapel, valued in the parliamentary returns at £115, 5s. Patron, the vicar of Dewsbury. It is a small mean building, which, from an inscription on the front, appears to have been erected in 1806. The church of England Sunday-school, erected in 1814, is a very large edifice. A Wesleyan Methodist chapel was erected here about five years ago. Soothill, also in this parish, has a large population, amounting to three thousand. and ninety-nine persons. ! - Tarls Heaton, in this township, is a small mean village, situate in a quarry in the side of a steep hill. The church, recently erected by a grant from the commis- sioners, is a tolerable structure, having a body and transepts, with a tower and spire at the west end. The architect was J. Taylor, Esq. The contract was £5,230. 5s. and the accommodation afforded is three hundred and forty-eight' in pews, and two hundred and fifty-two in free seats. The first stone was laid in May, Hanging Heaton." -ºr Clifton. and seven persons. Hartshead. 1825, and the church was completed in 1827. - Hanging Heaton has a new church, having a body and tower of pointed archi- tecture, from the design of the same architect. It cost £4436.6s. 1d, and will contain three hundred and eighty in pews, and two hundred and twenty in free seats. The first stone was laid in August, 1823, and the church was consecrated in 1825. - - Clifton cum Hartshead, in Morley wapentake, has a population of two thousand At Hartshead is a chapel of ease dependent on the church at Dewsbury. It is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary returns at £95, and is in the patronage of the vicar. This chapel was in existence as early as the year 1120; its situation is high, and commands an extensive view of the vale of Calder. Great THE COUNTY OF YORK. 295 part of the fabric has been renewed since the first erection, but the principal door and the arch over the entrance to the choir still remain, and are enriched in the style of the corresponding parts at Addle, though less elaborate. . Kirklees hall, the elegant seat of Sir George Armitage, Bart., is chiefly memorable as the site of a nunnery, founded in the reign of Henry II. by Reynerus Flandrensis, for Cistercians. The nunnery was situate on the verge to the south of a deep brook, hence called Nunbrook; and though only one fragment of the house remains among the numerous buildings of a large farm yard, yet the outline diligently pursued shows that the establishment must have been of considerable extent. The tomb of Elizabeth de Stainton,” and another, protected by iron-rails, which still remain, point out the situation of the church, and it is ascertained that CHAP. IX. Rirklees hall. the nave, transept, and choir must have been at least one hundred and fifty feet long. On the dissolution, this priory was valued at £20. 7s. 8d. per annum. Kirklees is also famous as the occasional residence and sepulchre of that ancient archer and freebooter, Robin Hood, who lived in the beginning of the thirteenth century, and who, according to tradition, was suffered to bleed to death by a nun, to whom he had applied to take from him a portion of his redundant blood. That such a character existed, the testimony of Peirs Ploughman appears to decide, whether he was, as the epitaph preserved by Dr. Gale, dean of York, imports, of noble parentage, or an outlaw of humbler birth, is not equally clear; but that his mortal remains rest at Kirklees, under an ancient cross and beyond the precincts of the nunnery, is generally admitted. The cross bears no inscription, but the epitaph may have been engraved upon a tomb-stone, which has ceased to exist: it is in these words:– a --~~~ • - • - “Hear, undernead dislatil stean, , gº . . . . Laiz Robert, earl of Huntington ; Nea arcir vir as him sa geud, An pipl kauld him Robin Heud; Sick utlauz azhi, an iz men, Vil Inglande mivr.si agen. Obit 24, Kal. Dekembris, 1247.” A statue of this renowned freebooter, large as life, leaning on his unbent bow, Robin Hood. with a quiver of arrows, and a sword by his side, formerly stood at one side of the entrance into the old hall. After the dissolution, the site of this nunnery was granted to the Ramsdens. In the 1st of Elizabeth, Kirlees became the property of Robert Pilkington, and in the 8th of that reign it was alienated to John. Armitage, in whose family it has continued to the present day. Till the time of * Inscribed—“ Douce Jhesu de Nazaret fites mercy a Elizabeth de Staynton jadis Priores de cest Maison.” . . . . . - - 296 - - HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Emley. James I, the site of the priory was the family residence, but in that reign they removed to the present more airy mansion, which is now occupied by Sir George Armitage, Bart. - The parish of EMLEY, seven miles from Huddersfield, has a population of one thousand three hundred and fifty-one persons. f The benefice is a rectory, dedicated to St. Michael, and valued in the Liber regis at £14. 0s. 73d Patron, the Hon. and Rev. J. L. Saville. The church is a good edifice, with a tower at the west end. - - Here is a public school, built by a Mr. Wigglesworth, to the master of which, the Hon. and Rev. J. L. Saville gives £8 per annum, likewise £10 per annum is payable out of a close, called Honley-wood, in Flockton. Methley. - - METHLEY is a small parish, with a population of one thousand four hundred and ninety-nine persons. It is situate on the banks of the Calder, not far distant from Castleford. This place is of considerable antiquity, and we learn from Domesday book, that Osulph and Cnut, two Saxon proprietors before the Conquest, were expelled from it, to make room for Ilbert de Lacy, the great Norman lord, who made it one of the dependencies of his fee of Pontefract. Subsequently, the manor was granted to the hospital of St. Nicholas, of Pontefract, in the reign of Henry IV. by whom it was exchanged with Sir John Waterton for certain advowsons. By this bargain the Watertons became seized of Methley, and probably built the manor- Church, house, which was completely and uniformly rebuilt by Baron Savile. - The benefice is a rectory dedicated to St. Oswald, and valued in the Liber regis at £25. 8s. 6%d. Patron, the king. - - The church of Methley was in existence at the time of the Domesday survey: it is a living in charge, valued in the king's books at £25. 8s. 63d, and is in the patronage of the duchy of Lancaster; for though the manor was alienated by the Lacies, the advowson did not pass under the grant. It is a neat edifice, having a nave and chancel, with a low tower at the west end. The chantry contains many monuments of exquisite workmanship and in good preservation, of which the following are the principal:—The first is a table monument, with the effigies in alabaster of Robert Waterton and Cicely his wife, the founders of the chapel. Opposite is another tomb of alabaster, with two recumbent figures, male and female, without inscription, but with armorial bearings, which shows this to be the grave of Lionel Lord Welles, who fell in the battle of Towton-field. Between these two monuments is a magnificent tomb, commemorating the founder of the present family, Sir John Savile, of Bradley and of Methley, baron of the Exchequer. On the north side of the chancel is a stately monument by Scheemakers, to the memory of Charles Savile, Esq.; and opposite to this, is a sumptuous monument to the first earl of Mexborough, by Wilton, with a figure of the deceased in his THE COUNTY OF YORK. 297 robes. In the same part of the church is a monument with a representation of the raising of Lazarus, by R. Westmacott, Esq. R. A. It is inscribed to Sarah, dowager countess of Mexborough, who died Aug. 9, 1821. The last of this series is a neat tablet to Henry Savile, second son of John first earl of Mexborough, CHAP. IX. who died Nov. 3, 1828, aged sixty-five. But the greatest antiquity about the church - is a statue of King Oswald, the patron saint, over the south door. - Methley park, the stately residence of the earl of Mexborough, is admired for its beautiful scenery; the house was originally built in the reign of James I., but numerous alterations subsequently made, have quite modernized its appear- ance. - The parish of MIRFIELD is of considerable extent, with a population of five thousand and forty-one souls. - - - - Moorfield or Mirefield, probably forms the etymology of this place. The river Calder runs through the middle of the parish, Mirfield being on the north, and Hopton on its southern bank. Up to the year 1261, Mirfield formed a part of the Saxon parish of Dewsbury, and the cause of its separation, as appears from a Latin MS. in Hopkinson's collection of documents, is curious. It happened, says the ancient story, that as the Lady of Sir John Heton, the baroness of Mirfield, was going to mass before dawn, on Christmas day, to the parish church, (of Dews- bury,) at a distance of three miles, that she was way-laid and robbed, and her principal attendant murdered, at a place called Ravensbrook-layne. On the same day, while she was at dinner, at nine o’clock in the morning, (that being then the fashionable hour) two mendicant ecclesiastics, came to crave her charity, telling her at the same time that they were going to Rome, where her husband, Sir John, was then residing. On this intimation, she sat down and wrote a letter to her husband, narrating to him the horrid scene she had so recently witnessed, and begging of him to make interest with the pope to erect the chapel of Mirfield into a parochial church, that the inhabitants might no longer be exposed to the dangers she had encountered on the way to their parish church. This letter she confided to the priests, who duly delivered it to the knight, and whose suit was so successful, that his holiness elevated Mirfield into a rectory, and bestowed the patronage of the church upon Sir John Heton and his posterity. Sir John's first care was to confer the living upon his younger brother, whose name was also John, and by whom the rectory-house was built, about the year 1300. The church of Mirfield was afterwards appropriated to the endowment of the nunnery of Kirklees, and formed the best part of its revenue. On the dissolution of that religious house, in 1540, it was granted to Thomas Savile, of Clifton, gent. and after passing through a number of families, was purchased by the Armitages, and Sir George is now the impropriator and patron. The rectory of Mirfield, though let half a WOL. III. 4 G - Park. Mirfield. 298 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Church. School. Blake hall. Newland. century ago for two hundred guineas a year, was estimated, in 1540, at no more than £6.6s. 8d.* . The church is a neat edifice, the body having been rebuilt in the lancet, or early English style of architecture, about four years ago. The tower is ancient, and has pinnacles at the angles. The plague, with which England was visited towards the middle of the seventeenth century, extended, it ravages to Mirfield, and the parish register records, that no fewer than one hundred and thirty-four of the inhabitants were swept off by that malady, between the middle of July and the end of October, 1631. At the west end of the church is a canonical mount, erected . by the Saxons, and intended as a place of defence to the manor house of the lords. Immediately adjoining to this hill was the mansion successively occupied by the Mirfields, the Hetons, the Beaumonts and the Armitages, and which is still called Castle hall. The date of this edifice is not well ascertained, and a higher degree of antiquity than belonged to it, carried Castle hall back to the time of Canute. An ancient date was read, 1022, when in fact it was 1522; but if, as is supposed, it was the residence of Sir John Heton, the founder of the parochial church, it is of higher antiquity than the sixteenth century. - r Mirfield is now principally distinguished as one of the favourite seats of the woollen manufacture, and as a centre of this staple trade. It is a fertile, opulent, and delightfully situated village, and, from its ancient history and present respecta- bility, is well entitled to a somewhat elaborate notice. . . . - The parish and township are co-extensive, and stretch about two miles on both sides of the Calder. : - » Here is a school, founded in 1667, by Richard Thorpe, of Hepton, Gent., for the education of fifteen poor children—present endowment, upwards of £60 per all Ill] Iºl. At Blake hall, the residence of Mrs. Ingram, was born John Hopton, bishop of Norwich, of a very considerable family, residing alternately at Blake hall and Armley, near Leeds. He was a Dominican friar, educated at Oxford, from whence, after his course of study was completed, he travelled to Rome, and took the degree of D.D. at Bologna. He was chaplain to Princess Mary, soon after whose accession to the crown he was nominated to the see of Norwich, which he enjoyed to his death."f . . . . - - NEWLAND is a small place, extra-parochial, with a population of forty-six per- sons. The hall is the residence of Sir E. S. Dodsworth, Bart. - The parish town of NorMANTONí is situated four miles from Wakefield, and has a population of two hundred and fifty persons. Norman- ton. * The vicarage is valued in the Liber regis at £6. Is. 10d. +Whitaker's Loidis and Elmete. # The entire parish has a population of seven hundred and seventy-three inhabitants. - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 299 The benefice is a vicarage, valued, in the parliamentary returns at £150. It is in the patronage of Trinity college, Cambridge. The church, dedicated to St. Andrew, is a neat edifice, comprising a nave and chancel, with a tower at the west end. in this building is buried John Torre, Esq. whose manuscript collections of the ecclesiastical antiquities of this town stand unrivalled. He died at Snydall, in this parish, July 31, 1699. Here is a grammar school, founded and endowed with £10 per annum by John Fraston, Esq. in 1591, for all scholars of his surname, and thirty others out of the parishes of Normanton and Warmfield. The money is paid by the university of Oxford. . . . - - Altofts has four hundred and four inhabitants, and Snydall one hundred and nineteen. At the latter place is the seat of Thomas Hodson, Esq. - The parish town of Rothwell* is pleasantly situate in a valley four miles and a half from Leeds. Population, two thousand one hundred and fifty-five. “This place,” says Dr. Whitaker, “appears to have been named, when first planted by the Saxons, from a rapid and copious well near the church.” It was distinguished among the numerous manors of the Lacies dependent on the castle of Pontefract, by having a castlet or manor-house near the church, of which a mass of strong grout work yet remains. - - The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £19. 12s. Ild. It is in the patronage of C. J. Brandling, Esq. The church, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, was appropriated to the priory of Nostel, to which it was given, according to Burton, by Robert de Lacy. - The church is a plain edifice, comprising a nave and aisles, and chancel and tower at the west end. In 1770, a tolerable painting of the Lord's Supper, by Peckett, was placed in the east window by W. Fenton, Esq. A charity school was founded here by the late J. Bromley, Esq. in 1722. Rothwell-haigh adjoins to Rothwell, and was formerly an ancient park of the Lacies, which was given by Henry VIII. to Thomas Lord Darcy. It afterwards relapsed into a state of nature, and became a mere common. It contains about five hundred and forty-three acres, and is now a fertile and productive tract. The township of Carlton with Lofthouse has a population of one thousand three hundred and ninety-six souls. At the last mentioned place is the hall, the elegant seat of B. Dealtry, Esq. Middleton is a considerable township. The population amounts to one thousand and ninety-six persons. Here is the seat of W. Walker, Esq. 49 r The township of Oulton with Woodlesford has a population of fifteen hundred and twenty-six persons. * The entire parish contains six thousand two hundred and fifty-three persons. CHAP. IX. Church. John Torre. Altofts. Snydall. Rothwell. Church. Carlton with Loft- house. Middleton. Oulton with Woodles- ford. 300 - - HISTORY OF BOOK VI. Here is one of the most chaste and elegant churches of pointed architecture to Church. be met with in the kingdom. It was built and endowed through the munificence of the late J. Blayds, Esq., of Leeds and this place. The first stone was laid by his son, Dec. 7, 1827. The following inscription, neatly engraven on a plate of brass, was inserted in the stone:– 3. “This edifice, by the name of St. John's church, was erected in compliance with the will of the late John Blayds, Esq. of Leeds and Oulton, who died Feb. 21st, 1827. The first stone was laid by his son, John Blayds, Esq. of Oulton, Dec. 7th, 1827. Rickman and Hutchinson, architects.” In plan, this edifice is erected on the ancient church arrangement; it contains a nave and aisles, chancel, and tower and spire at the west end. The tower has double buttresses at the angles, terminating in neat pinnacles. The spire is finished with a vane, and pierced in several places by small windows. The south side of the nave is made into six divisions by buttresses; in the third from the west, is a very elegant porch, and in the remainder, single pointed windows; the clerestory has small windows and a block cornice. The chancel is in a richer style of deco- ration, and terminates in a semi-hexagon. On the north side is a vestry, built in an hexagonal form, with a spiral roof, finished with a rich cross. This portion is evidently an imitation of the ancient chapter house of our monastic churches. W Interior. The interior is elegantly fitted up, and has a chaste and tasteful appearance. The windows of the chancel are filled with rich stained glass, including the arms of Mr. Blayds and his family, the diocesan, and architects. On the south side of the chancel is a pointed arch and pinnacle, with crockets and finial. Within, on a black slab, is the following inscription : did the memory of john 25lants, of Leebg ant «Puſton, €sq. the founder of this tgutch. #2 bepartet this life on the prj. of £ebruarn, 31272&Cº. in the ſprit. meat of jig age. - * The dado of the chancel-at the end has a beautiful screen with diapered work. The pulpit and reading-desks are on the opposite sides of the nave, and the font, at the west end of the church, is octagonal. Above, in a neat gallery, is a good Organ. & - This church will hold six hundred persons. It cost near £16,000, and the living is endowed with £4000 three per cent consols. - Hall. Oulton house, the elegant seat of J. Blayds, Esq. is situate on a slight eminence a short distance from the church. - - Richard Here was born, 1661, the celebrated critic, Mr. Richard Bentley, who was * chaplain to Bishop Stillingfleet. He was the first who preached the lecture founded by Mr. Boyle. He is advantageously known as a critic, by his editions of Horace, Terence, Phaedrus, &c. He died in 1742. THE COUNTY OF YORK, 301 Thorp is a small township, the population amounting to eighty persons. The parish of GREAT SANDALL* is very extensive; the township has a popu- lation of eight hundred and eighty-persons. It is situate on the road from Wake- field to Barnsley, two miles distance from the former. - * The church is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £13. 7s. 8d. and in the parliamentary returns at £122, 17s. 2d. Patron, the king. It is dedicated to St. Helen, and is a good structure, with a tower at the west end. The castle here was built by John, earl of Warren, about the year 1320. In the reign of Edward III. Edward Baliol resided here, while an army was raising to establish him on the throne of Scotland. This castle afterwards became the pro- perty of Richard Plantagenet, duke of York, who was slain in a great battle, fought near this place, in the year 1460. The last siege it sustained was in the civil wars of Charles I. ; Colonel Bonivant held it for the king, and surrendered it to the arms of parliament, in the month of October, 1645. In the following year it was dismantled by their order. ~. ** Thomas Zouch, D.D. a man of considerable erudition, was born here in 1737. A collection of his works, with a memoir by the Rev. Thomas Wrangham, was published in 1820. - - - Here is a free-school for eight boys, founded by the late Rev. Doctor Zouch, who endowed it with £10 per annum, and a house and garden. West Bretton is a small chapelry, (partly in Silkstone parish, Staincross wapen- take,) with a population of five hundred and eighteen persons. - Bretton hall, the seat of Thomas Richard Beaumont, Esq. pleasantly situate on an eminence, was originally erected by Sir William Wentworth, Bart., in 1720, when the old family house and chapel adjoining were pulled down, and the pre- sent mansion erected on their site. Considerable additions and alterations have been lately made from the designs of Sir Jeffery Wyattville, Bart. º: Crigglestone has a population of one thousand two hundred and sixty-five per- sons. At Chapel Thorpe is a neat chapel, of which the vicar is patron, . The township of Walton has a population of three hundred and eighty-five persons. - - The parish of THORNHILL is pleasantly situate on an eminence on the south bank of the Calder, and distant from Dewsbury two miles. The township has a population of one thousand nine hundred and thirty-two persons. The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £40. It is in the patron- age of the Hon. and Rev. J. Lumley Saville. - CHAP. IX. Tho rp. Great San- dall. Church. Castle. Free school. West Bretton. Hall. Criggle- Stone. Walton. " Thornhill. * The entire parish has a population of two thousand six hundred and ninety-two inhabitants. * The entire parish has a population of five thousand four hundred and fifty-eight persons. WOL. III. 4 H Church. - 302 - HISTORY OF Book VI. The church, dedicated to St. Michael, consists of a nave, chancel and side • aisles, with a tower at the west end. On the north side of the chancel is the chapel of the Savilles, which boasts of a noble collection of monuments to that ancient family; amongst them is a rare one of oak, upon the table of which are three statues of the same material, commemorating Sir John Saville and his two wives. On the fillet is this rude inscription, - i 3omys emang stamps, Iges here ful gigſ, Quiſgttijº &amic manterg ſuffet ºut ingſ, ºnna &pni. #1241&lºlºſºft. Thornhill is memorable for the long residence-of a family distinguished almost above every other in the public concerns of the county of York. In the time of Henry III. it was the seat of the knightly family of Thornhills, who inter- married with the De Fixbys and Babthorpes, in the reigns of Edward I. and II. ; and in that of Edward III. became united with the Savilles of Dodsworth, near Barnsley. The Savilles remained here till the civil wars of Charles I, when the house was besieged (having been previously fortified by Sir William Saville, the third baronet of this family), taken, and demolished by the forces of parliament. Of the small fragment that remains, which appears to be about the time of Henry VII. an engraving is given in Whitaker's Loidis and Elmete. - Here is a free grammar-school, founded in the reign of Charles I., and a free school established in 1812. - Flockton. The chapelry of Flockton has a population amounting to nine hundred and - eighty-eight souls. - / - The church is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £110: patrons, the earl of Scarborough, Sir J. L. Kaye, Bart., Colonel Wortley, Colonel Beaumont, and R. Milnes, Esq. * , - Shitling- Shitlington has one thousand six hundred and thirty-five, and Lower Whitley *:::: nine hundred and three inhabitants. - ". . Whitley. - h - * - f THE COUNTY OF YORK. . . - 303 CHAPTER X. SURVEY OF THE WAPENTAKES OF BARKSTONE-ASH, STAINCROSS, STAINCLIFFE AND EWECROSS, The lower division of Barkstone-Ash wapentake contains the parishes of CHAP. X. BIRRIN, CAWOOD, - RYTHER, BRAYTON, s DRAX, SELEY, BROTHERTON, Monk FRYSTON, WISTOW. The upper division contains the following parishes:— BRAM HAM, LEDSHAM, SAXTON, KIRBY WHARFE, * MICKLEWAITE GRANGE, SHERBURN, KIRR FENTON, Newton KYME, TadcastER. SELBY is a market town, situate at the distance of ten miles north-west from Selby. Howden, twenty miles east from Leeds, and fifteen almost directly south from York. Being seated on the banks' of the Ouse, and having a navigable canal to Leeds, it carries on a flourishing trade, and contains about three thousand inha- bitants. It has a good market on Monday, and several fairs, viz. Easter Tuesday, the Monday after Boroughbridge Barnabas fair, and Old Michaelmas day, for horses, horned cattle and sheep; the show for horses commences on the 20th of September, and ends on the 26th. There are also fairs for flax on Thursday, every six weeks, from Michaelmas to St. Peter's day, old style. This place is in all probability the ancient Salebeia, a name which denotes a Roman origin. History, however, is silent as to the date of its foundation, nor have we any authentic documents of its state in the times preceding the Norman conquest. But as it appears to have been a place of some note at that period, it was probably built by the Saxons, on a Roman foundation. * 304. | HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Abbey. The ancient and famous abbey, which was once the chief ornament and glory of Selby, was founded by William the Conqueror in the year 1069, for monks of the order of St. Benedict, and dedicated to the honour of St. Mary, and St. Germanus, who suppressed what was called the Pelagian heresy. In the following year that monarch coming to Selby, to settle the endowment, his queen, by whom he was accompanied, was here delivered of her youngest son, Henry, afterwards King of England. And it was probably on that account, that the abbey of Selby was favoured by the succeeding kings, his descendants, with great privileges, as well as adorned with magnificent buildings. Pope Alexander II. granted to the abbot, and his successors for ever, the privilege of using the ring, mitre, pastoral staff, dalmatic coat, gloves and sandals; of blessing the palls of the altar, and other ecclesiastical ornaments, and of conferring the first tonsures; all of which were, on the 30th of March, 1308, confirmed by William Greenfield, archbishop, and by the dean and chapter of York. It may here be observed that the abbots of Selby, and of St. Mary's at York, were the only two mitred abbots in the parts of England to the north of the river Trent.* - - * This monastery flourished in great splendour till the time of the dissolution, when its revenues amounted to £729. 12s. 103d, by Dugdale's account, or to £819. 2s. 6d. according to Speed. It was surrendered by Robert de Selby, the last abbot, F in the 30th Henry VIII. 1539; and was granted about two years afterwards to Sir Ralph Sadler, Knight, in consideration of £736, and a rent of £3 10s. 8d. per annum. The same king soon after granted him license to alienate the site of the abbey, with the little park, containing about ten acres, and the manor of Selby, with its appurtenances, to Leonard Beckwith, and his heirs. It afterwards de- scended to the Walmsleys of Dunkchalgh, in Lancashire; and by marrying the heiress, it came to the Lord Petre, in whose family it yet remains. This monastery was situated on the west side of the river Ouse: the principal buildings were on the west and south side of the church. The barn and granary are yet remaining, but the great gateway was pulled down about twenty-five years since. Over this gateway was the abbot’s court-house, with two rooms on the sides for the jury and the witnesses. On each side the gate were the porter's-lodge, and a room to serve the poor. At the south-west corner of the church they still show the ruined room where it is pretended Henry I. was born, but the building is of much later erection (probably about the time of Henry VII.) The walls have been painted with large figures of religious, with scrolls; and on the cornice at top are some imperfect inscriptions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Burton's Monast. p. 406. Drake's Ehoracum, p. 577. - Aw + For a list of the abbots, see Dugdale's Monasticon, new edit. iii. p. 495. . . . . . ; º º º - - - - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 305 The remains of the abbey church (now the parochial church”) show it to have been a most noble building, erected at different times, and in different styles of architecture. The nave appears to be the most ancient part; the choir is a later erection. The whole length of the structure is two hundred and sixty-seven feet: the breadth fifty feet, and the length of the transept one hundred feet; the east and west ends being of equal distance from the pillars supporting the steeple, the height of which was no doubt in proportion, and must have rendered it a very conspicuous object in so level a country. This steeple or tower fell down on Sunday the 30th of March, 1690, about six o'clock in the morning, and by its fall destroyed a part of the church, particularly the south end of the transept, and the roof of the western part of the south aisle. The west end of the church on the outside, though irregular, is curious, and, as Burton remarks, is very different from the drawing in the Monasticon Anglicanum. The entrance into it, and the porch on the south side, are worthy of observation. “To me,” says Mr. Burton, “it seems evident that it was intended to have three towers, a large one in the middle of the church, and two smaller ones at the west end; this seems to have been the intention of the thickness of that wall, and the bulk of the two first pillars within the church, which are nearly of the same form and diameter with those supporting the great tower, betwixt which, and those of the west end, are six pair of pillars of four different diameters and forms; but those of the choir are of one sort or style.” “ The magnificence, yet comparative simplicity, of the west front,” says Mr. Buckler, “renders it deserving of particular notice, as its proportion and decora- tions merit remark from their singularity and elegance. It appears to have been the original intention of the architect to place two towers on this front; not only from the external preparations made for such a work, but by the massive piers now remaining internally. The design was never carried into execution, but the angles terminate with lofty and well proportioned pinnacles. “The entrance is by a large richly ornamented Norman door-way. The orna- ments are chevrons, double chevrons, and enriched and angular fret work, &c. supported on each side by six columns with simply ornamented capitals. The triple arches above the door-way are in the pointed style, and the decorations partake in character, like many found on the north and west door-ways and internal parts of the church. The centre arch forms the west window, being considerably wider than those at the sides, and filled with tracery. The walls of the nave and north transept are Norman, though few arches and ornaments now remain on the exterior of that character, being mostly replaced by windows, &c. in the pointed * “It appears by tradition, that the parish church of Selby, in which service was performed before the dissolution of monasteries, was situate north-east of the ferry. The place in which it stood is still remaining.”—Mountain's Selby. WOL. III. 4 I CHAP. X, Church. 306 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. style, at different periods. The most striking feature on the north side of the nave is the porch, in that mixed style which prevailed soon after the formation of the pointed arch, having circular and pointed arches indiscriminately introduced, com- posed of the same mouldings. Under it is a Norman door-way, less enriched, having only four mouldings, but more elegantly proportioned than that at the west end.”* - To the simple and massy Norman nave is contrasted the beautiful choir, a perfect and splendid example of the pointed style of building, when in its height of perfection, in the reign of Edward III. The proportions are extremely elegant, and the ornaments richly disposed, forming, on the whole, perhaps, one of the most chaste and magnificent designs in the kingdom.t. The present tower, probably rebuilt about 1702, is in a style by no means corresponding with its original. The chapter-house is a beautiful building, attached to the south side of the choir; the room used for that purpose (now the vestry) appears, by its style and simplicity, to be of an earlier date. Over it is a room now used as a school. The internal architecture of the nave is very magnificent, and the ornaments of the most elaborate and beautiful kind. This part of the church is divided from the aisles by eight circular arches, resting on circular and enriched columns, with the archi- volts adorned with chevrons, &c. Above the arches are two stories of open gallery, the first has arches of the same span as the principal arch below, supported on pillars of every possible variety. j. The next story consists of three pointed arches, open to the nave. The choir is in a more light and elegant style of architecture, being divided from the aisles by seven pointed arches, resting on beautiful clustered columns, the whole of the blank wall being adorned with statues, &c. But the object which attracts more particular attention is the east window; the proportions of all its parts, the beauty of its tracery, and the slender lofty mullions unsupported by transoms cannot be exceeded. In the last century this window contained the genealogy of Christ; but only a few scattered fragments of this interesting collection of glass now remain. The priest’s stalls (of stone) are on the south side of the choir. A number of wooden stalls also remain. The four Norman arches at the intersection of the great cross aisles are composed of few mouldings and ornaments. The font is simple, with a magnificent and very lofty cover of carved wood suspended from the second arch on the north side of the nave. The only monuments of consequence are a knight $ and lady, and a slab for Abbot Selby, 1504. - * The conventual church of Selby was made parochial by letters-patent, dated * Gent.’s Mag. 1815. vol. ii. p. 105. + Buckler. # One column has twelve isolated dwarf pillars surrounding the principal one § Arms on his shield, a bend between six hammers. - - º º | THE COUNTY OF YORK. - 307 March 20, in the year. 1618, 16th of James I. and a minister was thereunto nomi- nated, authorized, and appointed by the archbishop of York. Considerable improvements have been made in Selby within the last few years. The Hon. Edward Petre liberally surrendered property worth £1500 to effect some of the objects, particularly that of opening a complete and uninterrupted view of the west front of the church. He also gave one hundred and sixty guineas towards the organ lately erected. - There are chapels here for the Wesleyan Methodists and the Independents. A grammar-school was founded here by Edward VI. and well endowed. There is also a handsome bridge constructed of timber over the river Ouse, which is particularly admired for despatch in the admission of vessels. This bridge, though estimated to weigh seventy tons, can be opened and shut in the short space of one minute. It works on balls resembling cannon-balls, and the facility of its movements is astonishing. A branch custom-house has lately been established at Selby, by the Lords of the Treasury, and vessels can now proceed from hence direct to any part of the kingdom, without being exposed to the detention to which they were formerly liable, by, being compelled to stop at Hull, to be cleared at the custom-house there. The commerce of Selby has been increasing for some years. By means of a canal from the Ouse to the Aire and Calder, a navigation exists between Leeds and Selby, by which this place becomes the loading and unloading port of the West riding of Yorkshire, and upwards of eight hundred vessels, with cargoes, clear coastwise from hence every year. That spirit of improvement by which the inha- bitants of this opulent county are at present actuated, has tended much to the advantage of Selby, a railway from this port to Leeds being now in course of formation. A handsome Gothic cross, erected in the market place, is at once an ornament to the town, and an accommodation to the numerous persons who resort to it for the transaction of their business. A small poor-house was built by the feedfees of Selby in 1822. The soil in the neighbourhood of Selby is various, part of it being sandy, and part a hazel clay. The chief proprietors are the Hon. E. R. Petre, and Humphrey Osbaldeston, Esq. There are also a great number of copyholders.” - CHAP. x. * A considerable quantity of woad, or rather weld, for the use of dyers is raised in this neighbour- hood; the seed of which is sown with red clover, and when it is in full bloom it is reaped by women and boys, who go before the mowers to pluck and gather it into bundles. Large quantities of potatoes are raised in this parish; and near the town, as well as in all this line of country, a great deal of flax, chiefly for the manufactories of the West riding, is grown, which is cleaned and dressed in the neighbourhood. The warpland, as it is called, over which the waters of the Ouse and the Aire are permitted to flow by means of sluices, which admit and retain the water until the sediment is deposited, is peculiarly rich and luxuriant. Upon this land it is not thought safe to sow wheat, from an apprehension that the seed would perish during the winter, but it is admirably adapted to raising spring corn, of which there are heavy crops. Bridge. Cross. 308 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Birkin. Chapel Haddlesey. West Had- dlesey. Temple and Court- nay Hurst. Brayton. Barlow. Burn. Gateforth. Thorpe Willough- by. Hamble- ton. Brother- ton. The parish of BIRKIN, situate on the north bank of the Aire, four miles distant from Ferrybridge, has a population of one hundred and thirty-nine persons. The benefice is a rectoy, valued in the Liber regis at £36. Patron, the Rev. T. Wright. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a small but ancient edifice. Chapel Haddlesey has one hundred and ninety-nine inhabitants. Here is a small chapel of ease to Birkin, and a Wesleyan chapel. The township of West Haddlesey has two hundred and ninety-three inhabitants. A Primitive Methodist chapel was erected here about five years ago. Hurst Courtnay, containing one hundred and forty-five, and Temple Hurst one hundred and forty-one inhabitants, possess no object deserving notice. The parish of BRAYTON is situate one mile south of Selby. Population, two hundred and fifty-three. - - The benefice, a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £7. 14s. 4d. is in the patronage of the Hon. E. Petre. The church, dedicated to St. Wilfrid, is a neat edifice, comprising a nave and aisles, a chancel and a fine Norman tower, finished with a spire, at the west end. On the north side is a circular door-way with four mouldings of chevrons, birds' heads, &c. Barlow has one hundred and seventy-five, Burn two hundred and thirty-eight, Gateforth one hundred and ninety-two, Thorpe Willoughby one hundred and forty- four, and Hambleton four hundred and eighty-eight inhabitants. Hambleton house is the seat of S. Smith, Esq. - .* BROTHERTON is a small parish town, one mile from Ferrybridge. The population in 1821 amounted to one thousand four hundred and ninety-one persons. The parish is partly in the liberty of St. Peter. - The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £5.6s. 8d. Patron, the dean and chapter of York. The church, dedicated to St. Edward, is a neat edifice, comprising a nave and aisles, a chancel and tower at the west end. Many of the persons who were slain in the fight at Ferrybridge, in 1461, were interred here.* At this village, Margaret, wife of King Edward I. was obliged to stop, when hunting, and was here delivered of a son, afterwards named Thomas de Brotherton; he was born June 1, 1300. # Not far from the church, is a piece of ground, surrounded by a wall and a trench, where, as tradition informs us, stood the house where the queen took up her abode. ~. Byrome with Poole contains sixty-one persons. Byrome hall is the seat of Sir John Ramsden, Bart. - Byrome. * In May, 1781, in digging a grave on the north side of this churgh, a chalice with its lid, and a spur and stocking were turned up. Mr. Drake conceived they had been buried along with one of the lords slain in the skirmish that happened at Ferrybridge in 1461.-Archaeologia, vol. ix. p. 253. g + Camden’s Brit. ºn --- - - Fººtiºn ºś º º - º § º º º º - y § º ######: Mº sº - - ºl. J. Rogºns. sc. ºne ºr on ºne º AT CAWOOD . - - IONDON PUBLISHED BY IT HINTON 4 waRWICK SQUARE. . THE COUNTY OF YORK. 309 Sutton contains seventy-four persons. - * :- - Cawood is a market and parish town, pleasantly situate on the banks of the Ouse, five miles from Selby and ten from York. The population of this parish in 1821, amounted to one thousand one hundred and twenty-seven persons. The market is held on Wednesday, and there are fairs on Old May-day and Sep- tember 23. *—, , - — ' The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary return at £34. 14s. : patron, the prebendary of Wistow in York cathedral. 4 - The church, dedicated to All Saints, is a neat erection with a tower. Archbishop Mountain is interred in this edifice, and has a handsome tomb. - * The earliest account in history of the castle here, states it to have been first erected by Athelstan, about the year 920. It is probable that monarch gave it to the church of York, for it has been attached to the see as an archiepiscopal palace ever since a few years after its erection. In 1642, this castle was garrisoned for the king; and was surrendered to Sir John Meldrum, for the use of the parliament, in 1644; and two years afterwards was dismantled by order of parliament. The gateway or principal entrance still remains, and over the arch are several mutilated shields of arms. - w Mr. William James built an hospital here, in 1724, for four poor people, and endowed it with land at Skirlaugh (East riding), value, £20 per annum. * CHAP. x. Sutton. Cawood. Church. Castle. The parish town of DRAx is four miles from Snaith, and contains a population of Drax. three hundred and seventy persons. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary return at £88: patron, the king. The church is dedicated to St. Peter. g - The free grammar-school at Drax was founded in 1667, by Charles Read, gentleman, of Darleton, in the county of Nottingham, who was born in this parish. He erected a school-house and dwelling for a master, as also six alms-houses, in the town and parish of Drax; and designed the same school-house for a free school, and a master for ever, to teach the youth of the parish to read, write, account, and also Latin, Greek, and Hebrew. The original endowment was £30 per annum to the master, which yet remains the same, but an advance of salary is expected to take place. “If any of the boys be deemed fit for the university, they shall be sent to either Cambridge or Oxford.” - - - Long Draw has one hundred and eighty-seven inhabitants. Here Philip de Tal- levilla had a castle strongly fortified, who relying on the courage of his men and store of arms and provisions, held out against King Stephen, but it was quickly taken and reduced by the king. William Pagnall, in the time of Henry I. at the * Carlisle’s Gram, Schools. WOL. III, - 4 K Long Drax 310 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. instance of Thurstan, archbishop of York, founded a priory here for canons of the order of St. Austin, and dedicated it to St. Nicholas. It was valued, at the dissolution, at £104. 14s. 9d. Not a vestige of this priory is now to be found, nor was there in Burton's time, without digging; and its site is only known by a Newland. Cambles- forth. Monk Fry- Ston. Burton Salmon. Hillam. Ryther. Ossendike. Lead hałł. Wistow. Tadcaster. farm-house in the township, bearing the name of Drax abbey, Newland has two hundred and sixty-nine persons, and Camblesforth two hundred and fifty-seven. - The hall is the seat of Sir Charles Blois, Bart. Monk FRyston, a small parish town on the high road from Leeds to Selby, four miles distant from Ferrybridge, has a population of four hundred and nine persons. The benefice is a parochial chapelry, valued in the parliamentary return at £60: patron, the prebendary of Wistow in York cathedral. It is a meat edifice, having a nave and aisles, chancel, and embattled tower at the west end. A Wesleyan Methodist chapel was erected here afew years ago. The townships of Burton Salmon (one hundred and eighty-two), and Hillam (two hundred and sixty-nine persons), belong to this parish. The parish of RyTHER, five miles from Tadcaster, contains a population (in- cluding Ossendike) of three hundred and thirty-five persons. The benefice, a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £6, 11s. 10%d. is in the gift of the crown. The church, dedicated to All Saints, is a neat edifice. Lead hall* is a small township in this parish with fifty inhabitants. It is said to be extra-parochial. The parish of Wistow, situate on the road from Cawood to Selby, and three miles distant from the last-mentioned town, contains six hundred and thirty-three inhabitants. - - - The benefice, a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £8, is in the patronage of the prebendary thereof in York cathedral. - - The archbishop of York usually holds a court of piepowder at the Lammas fair, at York, the jury of which is impanelled out of this place. - TADCASTER t is a considerable parish and market town, seven miles from Wetherby and ten from York. In 1821, this town, contained one thousand six hundred and fifty-one persons, inhabiting four hundred and nineteen houses. The market is held on Wednesday, and there are fairs on the last Wednesday in April, º May, September and October. This town is supposed to have been the Calcaria of the Romans, and it seems to have derived its ancient name from calx, or limestone, which abounds in the • In the upper division of this wapentake. v t Partly in the ainstey of the city of York, and partly in the liberty of St. Peter. THE county of York. 3| 1 neighbourhood.” The distance, which is ten miles south-west from York, exactly agrees with that which is given by Antoninus in his Itinerary. Many coins of the Roman emperors have also been found in this place.' Tadcaster is at present a meat, well built and pleasant town, situate on the south side of the river Wharfe. F - - z - The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £8.4s, 9}d, patron, the earl of Egremont. - The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a very handsome building, apparently erected early in the fifteenth century. It consists of a nave, chancel, and side aisles, with a low tower at the west end. The interior is neat, the nave separated from the aisles by three pointed arches, and at the west end is a gallery and organ. There are chapels in this town for the Wesleyans, Independents and Baptists. Here was formerly a castle, from the ruins of which we are told that the present bridge was erected in the beginning of the eighteenth century. This bridge is one of the best in the county, containing nine arches.j. - Calcaria, or Tadcaster, was considered by the Romans as one of the outports or gates to their chief military station, the city of York. In the civil wars of England, it was always regarded as a post of great importance, and its possession was often contested. There are yet some vestiges of a trench surrounding a part of the town, and probably thrown up in the time of the civil war in the reign of Charles I. Tadcaster has a free school, and a hospital for twelve poor persons, called the hospital of Jesus, founded by Dr. Oglethorp, bishop of Carlisle, who crowned * Drake's Eboracum, fol. 20. Mr. Dodsworth and some other antiquaries, place the ancient Calcaria at Newton Kyme, about a mile and a half to the westward of Tadcaster. See Gibson’s Notes, Camden, 742. - * John Shephard died here in 1757, aged one hundred and nine, and William Hughes, in 1769, aged one hundred and twenty-seven. - # The river Wharfe, which rises in a mountainous district, being subject to great variations in regard to the flow of its waters, occasioned the famous verses of Dr. Eades, afterwards Dean of Winchester, who, passing this way in his journey to Durham, in a dry season, wrote the following distich : “ NÍl Tadcaster habet musis vel carmine dignum, Preter magnificë structum sine flumine pontem.” “The muse in Tadcaster can find no theme, But a most noble bridge without a stream.” The doctor, however, returning the same way in the winter, thus commemorates the altered scene : “Quæ Tadcaster erat sine flumine pulvere plena, Nunc habet immensum fluvium, et pro pulvere lutum.” “The verse before on Tadcaster was just, But now great floods we see, and dirt for dust.” CHAP. X. Church. Chapels. 312 HISTORY OF BOOK WI, Stutton with Hasle- wood. Extensive view. Queen Elizabeth, but was afterwards deprived of his see for adhering to his religion. . - - In 1714, Henry O'Bryen, the last earl of Thomond, in Ireland, was created Baron and Viscount Tadcaster, but dying without issue, in 1742, the title became extinct. * - a Dr. Charles Hague, a celebrated professor and composer of music, was born here in 1769, and died in 1821, at Cambridge, of which university he was pro- fessor of music.” - - - - The township of Stutton with Haslewood has two hundred and fifty-six inha- bitants. - - - Haslewood hall, a little more than three miles nearly south from Tadcaster, has long been the seat of the ancient and honourable family of the Vavasours. The manor was held of William de Percy in the time of the Conqueror, and has to this day continued in the male line of that house, except for a short time in the reign of Henry III, when it was pledged to Aaron, an opulent Jew of York, for the sum of £350. This Jew made a conveyance of his security to the queen, in discharge of a debt which he owed her; and John de Vavasour redeemed it by paying the money. In the reign of Edward I. William de Vavasour was summoned to parliament among the other barons of the kingdom. - In the chapel are many monuments, inscriptions, and escutcheons, consisting chiefly of the Vavasours' arms: against the south wall is a raised monument, on which are the effigies of nine different persons of that family. - Haslewood is famed for the extent and richness of its prospects: the two cathe- drals of York and Lincoln, sixty miles asunder, may thence be discovered.'t - The parish of BRAMHAM is partly in the liberty of St. Peter. The town is Bramham. * For a more extended and very interesting notice of Dr. Hague, vide Livesey’s Illustres Ebora- eenses, p. 38. - - • t Fuller has the following quaint account of the state of this part of the county:— “Most true it is, that when King Henry the Eight, anno 1548, made his Progress to York, Doctor Tonstall Bishop of Durham, then attending on him, shewed the King a Valley, (being then some few miles North of Doncaster,) which the Bishop avowed to be the richest that ever he found in all his travails thorough Europe. For within 10 miles of Hasselwood, the seat of the Vavasors, there were, 165 Mamnor Houses of Lords, Knights and Gentlemen of the best quality. 275 Severall Woods, whereof some of them contain five hundred Acres. 32 Parks and two Chases of Dear. - 120 Rivers and Brooks, whereof five be Navigable, well stored with Salmon and other Fish. 76 Water-mills, for the Grinding of Corn on the aforesaid Rivers. t r 25 Cole-mines, which yield abundance of Fuell for the whole County. 3 Forges for the making of Iron, and stone enough for the same. And within the same limits as much sport and pleasure for Hunting, Hawking, Fishing, and Fowling, as in any place of England besides.”—Worthies of England, p. 185. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 313 situate four miles from Tadcaster and Wetherby, and contains (including Ogle- thorpe) nine hundred and seventy persons. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary return at £130: patron, the dean and chapter of Christ Church, Oxford. The church is dedicated to All Saints. - - On Bramham moor” are large remains of the Roman way called Watling street, from which consular road came divers via vicinales, by Thorner and Shadwell, through Street lane and Hawcaster-rig to Addle. Bramham park, the seat of J. L. Fox, Esq. is delightfully situate in the midst of a highly cultivated country. This noble residence was built in the reign of Queen Anne, by Robert, Lord Bingley, who employed for that purpose an Italian artist. It is designed upon a scale of much grandeur, consisting of a large centre, in which are the grand apartments, and wings for the domestic offices, connected by corri- dors of the Doric order: the whole fronting a spacious court, elevated five feet above. Amongst a collection of excellent portraits in this magnificent mansion, is a fine original one of Queen Anne, presented by her Majesty to Lord Bingley, as an acknowledgment of the attention of his lordship during a visit to this seat. It stands in a fine sporting country, and his late majesty once spent two nights at this venerable mansion, and partook of the delights of the chase. This estate was a grant from the crown in the reign of William and Mary, and was the first enclosure on Bramham moor. It was cultivated and planted by the father of the first Lord Bingley, who afterwards erected the present noble edifice. F In the chapel adjoining the house are the effigies of the ancestors of the family. Bramham lodge is the residence of the Hon. Edward John Stourton, and Bram- ham Biggin, the seat of Sir P. Musgrave, Bart. • Clifford is a considerable township, with one thousand and seventeen inhabitants. * The following true observations on the view from this common were made by John Watson, Esq. of Malton, in the year 1781 :—“Upon the middle of this moor, a man may see ten miles around him ; within those ten miles there is as much free stone as would build ten cities, each as large as York; within those ten miles there is as much good oak timber as would build those ten cities; there is as much limestone and coals to burn it into lime as the building of those ten cities would require; there is also as much clay and sand and coals to burn them into bricks and tiles as would build those ten cities; within those ten miles there are two iron forges sufficient to furnish iron for the building of those ten cities, and ten thousand tons to spare ; within those ten miles there is lead sufficient for the ten cities, and ten thousand fodders to spare ; within those ten miles there is a good coal seam suffi- cient to furnish those ten cities with firing for ten thousand years; within those ten miles there are three navigable rivers, from any of which a man may take shipping and sail to any part of the world; within those ten miles there are seventy gentlemen's houses, all keeping coaches, and the least of them an esquire, and ten parks and forests well stocked with deer ; within those ten miles there are ten market towns, one of which may be supposed to return ºf 10,000 per week.” + Neale’s Views." WOL III, - 4 L CHAP. X. Ogle- thorpe. Park. Lodge. Clifford. 314 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Boston. Boston, in this township, has a church, which is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Mary, the virgin, value, about £110: patron, the vicar of Bramham. It is a neat modern edifice, with a small tower at the west end. Boston, long celebrated for its mineral waters,” under the name of Thorpe-Arch, on the opposite side of the water, is situate in a romantic and beautiful vale, through which the river Wharfe runs with a rapid current. The houses are extremely neat and good, built chiefly of stone, with small gardens in front, and forming a row on each side of the road leading from Wetherby to Tadcaster. KIRBY WHARFE is a parish partly in the liberty of St. Peter, two miles from Tadcaster. In 1821, it contained (including Milford) eighty-six persons. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary return at £120: patron, the prebendary of Wetwang in York cathedral. The church is dedicated to St. John the Baptist. The township of Grimston has sixty-two inhabitants. of Lord Howden. Ulleskelf is entirely in St. Peter's liberty, and has a population of four hundred and twenty-six persons. • KIRK FENTON, five miles from Tadcaster, contains a population of four hundred and sixteen persons. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary return at £120: patron, the prebendary thereof in York cathedral. The township of Biggin, partly in the liberty of St. Peter, has one hundred and sixty-four, and Little Fenton, one hundred and thirteen inhabitants. The parish of LEDSHAM, five miles from Pontefract, has a population of two hundred and twelve persons. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £7.4s.2d.; patrons, the trustees of Lady Elizabeth Hastings. The church, dedicated to All Saints, is a good building, with a tower at the west end. The interior is only remarkable as the place of interment of Lady Elizabeth Hastings, of pious and charitable memory. A noble monument, afterwards aug- mented by the statues of her two surviving sisters, records, in elegant Latin, the character of this ornament to her sex. Her own figure is placed on a sarcophagus, reclining, and reading a book of devotion; the countenance, which is a portrait, Kirby Wharfe. Grimlston. Ulleskelf, Kirk Fen- ton. Biggin. Little Fen- t OI) & Ledsham, Grimston hall is the seat * The mineral spring, which was first discovered in 1744, by John Shires, an inhabitant of Thorpe- Arch, is situated on the south bank of the river, and issues from the bottom of a lofty limestone rock, which in some measure overhangs the river; it is conveyed by means of a pump, erected in 1792, into a little room for the purpose, whither the visitors repair to partake of this wholesome beverage. This water, like all others, of fashionable resort, has obtained the notice of Drs. Garnett, Munro, walker, and Hunter. . Hot and cold baths are erected immediately adj oining the pump-room. T H E COUNTY OF YORK. 315 is handsome and spirited; but the grace of the figure is destroyed by the deformity of a stiff bodice. Lady Frances and Lady Ann Hastings, on pedestals, on each side, are represented with the attributes of piety and prudence.* Lady Elizabeth Hastings died Jan. 2, 1739, aged fifty-eight years. The township of Fairburn contains four hundred and twenty-six inhabitants. Ledstonet contains two hundred and forty-three inhabitants. The hall here (erected about the time of James I.) was formerly the seat of the ancient family of Withams, till Henry Witham, Esq. sold it to Sir Thomas Went- worth, afterwards earl of Strafford, who made improvements in the house; his son William sold it to Sir John Lewis, Bart., who died here 1671. Sir John added much to the beauty of the house, gardens, and park, which he surrounded with a stone wall. It afterwards became the seat of Lady Elizabeth Hastings, daughter of Theophilus, earl of Huntingdon, by the eldest daughter and co-heir of Sir John Lewis, in 1690; and thence to that of Rawden, earl of Moira.j: Sir John Lewis erected and endowed an hospital here, for the maintenance of ten aged poor people, who, by his will, are required religiously to observe the Sabbath-day, and to be present at church, in the time of divine service and ser- mon. Lady Elizabeth Hastings added £10, per annum, for the better support of St. John Baptist's hospital, founded by her grandfather. The present revenue is £106 per annum. In the same township and parish is Ledstone lodge, the seat of Granville William Wheeler, Esq. MickLEwAITE GRANGE (an extra parochial place,) is the seat of B. B. Thompson, Esq. The parish town of Newton KYME, on the banks of the Ouse, one mile and a half north of Tadcaster, contains (including Toulston) one hundred and eighty-four persons. The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £14. Patron, T. L. Fairfax, Esq. The church is dedicated to St. Andrew. This place takes its name from being formerly in the possession of the barons De Kime; though it has since long been in the ancient family of Fairfax. $ Here some antiquaries place the Roman Calcaria, in the fields near St. Helen's ford, there being no argument to fix it at Tadcaster, but what will equally agree to this place. Many Roman coins have been ploughed up here, particularly some of the Constantius, Helena, and Constantine; also an alabaster urn, containing ashes, melted lead, rings, &c. * Whitaker. f A portion of this township is in the parish of Kippax. f Camden. Thoresby. Whitaker. § Drake's York. CHAP. X. Fairburn. Ledstone. Hall. Mickle- waite grange. Newton Kyme. 316 s º HISTORY OF Dr. Owen Oglethorpe, bishop of Carlisle, who crowned Queen Elizabeth, was a native of this place. Here is a school, founded in 1787, by the late Thomas Fairfax, Esq. Newton hall is the seat of Thomas Ladderton Fairfax, Esq. The parish of SAxTon, four miles from Tadcaster, has a population, (includ- ing Scarthingwell) of three hundred and seventy-eight persons. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary returns at £72. 10s. Patron, R. O. Gascoigne, Esq. The church is a small edifice, compris- ing a nave, chancel, and tower at the west end. In a chapel on the south side are several monuments to the families of Hungate and Hawke. In the church-yard of this village were interred the bodies of many of those unfortunate people slain in the memorable battle of Towton, March 29, 1461 ; the earl of Northumberland, it is said, reached York, to die. Leland says, Westmorland was interred in the church of Saxton, where, however, he has no distinguishable memorials. Clifford, according to the tradition of his family, was tumbled into a pit with a promiscuous heap of dead bodies. Lord Dacre, it appears, had a more honourable burial, as Leland says, he lay in a “meane tumb.” This tomb is on the north side of the church-yard, now much broken and defaced, and the inscription illegible.* On a part of the field, most remote from Saxton, Richard III. began a chapel, in order to pray for the slain, but the completion was prevented by his death. At a very small distance from the field of battle, and on the bank of the Cock, stands the antique and diminutive chapel of Leod or Lede. This was one of the seats of the ancient family De Tyas, styling themselves in Latin, Teutoni ci, five of whose tombs still remain in the chapel. Scarthingwell hall is the seat of Lord Hawke. The township of Towton, in this parish, is memorable as the scene of the dread- ful battle above mentioned. It is an inconsiderable village, with only ninety-four inhabitants. The parish and market town of SHERBURN is situate on the high road from York to London, being fifteen miles distant from the former city, and six miles from Ferrybridge. It contains a population of one thousand one hundred and PO () K V [. Saxton. Towton. Sherburn, * When Glover made his visitation in 1585, one hundred and twenty-four years after the battle, he was told that “Lord Dacres was slayne by a boy at Towton Field, which boy shot him out of a burtree, when he had unclasped his helmet to drink a cup of wyne, in revenge of his father, whom the said Lord had slayne before, which tree hath beene remarkable ever since by the inhabitants, and de- cayed within this few years. The place where he was slayne is called the North Acres, whereupon they have this rhyine:— - - The Lord of Dacres Was slayne in the North Acres.” THE COUNTY OF YORK. 317 forty-four persons. The market is held on Friday, and there is a fair on Sep- tember 25. It derives its name from the pure and clear, though diminutive stream which waters and refreshes it. * At this place formerly the archbishops of York had a palace, and which once belonged to King Athelstan; not a vestige remains, except such parts as may appear in the walls of the church, which was built out of its ruins. - The benefice, a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary returns at £130, is in the patronage of the prebendary of Fenton in York cathedral. - The church, seated on an eminence, and dedicated to All Saints, comprises a nave and aisles, chancel and embattled tower at the west end. The nave is Norman, and the work of some one of the first archbishops who became possessed of the place. Near the south-east corner of the church-yard, appears to have been a detached chapel, among the rubbish of which was dug up the head of a very rich and elegant cross,” now placed at the east end of the south aisle. Here is a grammar school and hospital, founded in 1619, by Robert Hungate, Esq., who endowed them with £120 per annum, for the clothing and maintenance of twenty-four boys in the hospital; and £12 per annum to the master, payable out of lands in this parish, of Robert Oliver Gascoigne, Esq. of Parlington. A sub- sequent endowment of £12 per annum was awarded to the master on a late enclo- sure. There are eight boys upon the foundation, who are admitted at the will of Mr. Gascoigne. There are four exhibitions of £7. 10s. each to St. John’s college, Oxford; and this is one of the schools entitled to send a candidate for Lady Eliza- beth Hastings' exhibitions. Master's salary £34, and assistant £13, 13s. 4d. per annum.f On the 15th of October, 1645, a sharp skirmish happened here between the king's and the parliament forces, in which Sir Richard Hutton, Sir Francis Car- naby, and several other officers on the king's side, were slain. Sherburn and the neighbourhood are remarkable for a particular species of plum, called the winesour. Barkstone, which gives name to the wapentake, is an inconsiderable township, containing two hundred and fifty-one persons. The township of Huddleston and Lumby has one hundred and eighty-four inha- bitants. Huddleston hall, formerly the seat of Sir Edward Hungate, Bart., is now reduced to a farm house. Latherton township contains four hundred and twenty-seven persons. The hall is the seat of J. Raper, Esq. * Engraved in Loidis and Elmete, vol. ii. p. 150. + Carlisle's Gram. Schools. WOL. III. 4 M C# A P. X. School. Barkstone. Huddle- ston and Lumby. Latherton. 3.18 HISTORY OF 800 K Vi. Mickle- field. South Mil- forth. Newthorpe . Stain cross wapentake. Cawthorne Cannon hall. Darton. . Micklefield has one hundred and ninety-six inhabitants. Here is a chapel of ease to Sherburn. - - South Milforth, partly in the liberty of St. Peter, has a population of six hundred and thirty-one persons. Here is a neat Wesleyan chapel. - - The township of Newthorpe, partly in the liberty of St. Peter, contains eighty- three inhabitants. The wapentake of Staincross contains the following parishes:— CAwTHoRNE, HEMSWORTH, ROYSTONE, DARTON, HIGH HOYLAND, SILKSTONE, FELKIRK, PENISTONE, TANIKERSLEY. The parish town of CAwTHoRNE, situate four miles west of Barnsley, has a popu- lation of one thousand five hundred and eighteen persons. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £100. Patrons, the freeholders, who vote according to the quantity of land they possess; J. S. Stanhope, Esq., of Cannon hall, having the majority of votes, may be consi- dered the patron. The church, dedicated to All Saints, is a neat edifice, comprising a nave, chancel, and side aisles, with a tower at the west end. - Here is a free school, founded in consequence of a decree of the duchy court at Lancaster, dated June 25, 1639. The master is nominated and elected by the chancellor of the duchy court, which court pays annually to the master £5.4s, out of its revenues; and the inhabitants pay the master £5. 5s. 6d., and find him a dwelling-house, &c. valued at £4.4s, per annum. Cannon hall, anciently called Camel hall, is rendered celebrated by being the retreat of William Lockwood, of Lockwood, after the fight at Elland with the Ellanders, in the reign of Edward III. In this house, Lockwood commenced an amour with a young woman of loose principles, who betrayed him into the hands of his enemies. In the library, which contains a valuable collection of books, among other curiosities, is the bow of Little John, the famous outlaw and com- panion of Robin Hood. It was brought many years ago from Hathersage, in Derbyshire, an estate formerly belonging to the Spencer family, where Little John was buried. The bow bears the name of Colonel Naylor, 1715, who is said to have been the last man who bent it. It is of yew, and though the two ends where the horns were affixed are broken, it still measures above six feet. DARTON is a small parish town, situate on the high road from Barnsley to Huddersfield, being distant from the former town three miles and a half Popu- lation, one thousand three hundred and forty. - The benefice is a vicarage, dedicated to All Saints. It is valued in the parlia- mentary return at £150, and is in the patronage of Godfrey Wentworth, Esq. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 319 In the church, which is a beautiful structure, (having a nave, chancel, and tower,) is a handsome marble monument to the memory of John Silvester, of Brithwaite hall, which he purchased of the Burdett family. He was originally a blacksmith, and was the inventor of a curious chain made to go across the Thames. He died in 1722, aged seventy. - A branch of the family of Beaumonts had formerly a seat here, at Darton hall, of which family was George Beaumont, a merchant, who left considerable sums of money, to be employed in several charitable uses; particularly £500 for the found- ing of the free grammar school at this his place of nativity, in 1675. Its annual value at present is about £120. The township of Barugh has three hundred and ninety-six, and Kexborough four hundred and forty inhabitants. Birthwaite hall, the seat of Thomas Rishworth, Esq. was formerly the residence of the ancestors of the present Sir Francis Burdett, Bart. Thomas Burdett, the second son of Richard Burdett, of Denby, was living here in 1494. FELKIRK is a parish five miles north of Barnsley, the population of which, in 1821, amounted to one thousand and forty-two persons. There is no village, but a single farm house, from which this parish derives its name. The benefice is a vicarage, dedicated to St. Peter, and valued in the parliamentary return at £140. It is in the patronage of the archbishop of York. The townships of Brierley, with four hundred and fifty-two inhabitants; Haver- croft, with Cold Hiendley, one hundred and eighty-nine inhabitants; South Hiend- ley, one hundred and sixty-six inhabitants; and Shafton, with two hundred and thirty-five inhabitants, contain no object deserving notice. The parish town of HEMsworth, five miles and a half south of Pontefract, has a population of nine hundred and sixty-three persons. - The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £20. 1s. 0}d. Patron, W. Wrightson, Esq. The church, dedicated to St. Helen, is a neat structure, with a tower at the west end. It was repaired in 1812. Here is a hospital for a master, ten poor men, and ten poor women, founded and endowed by Robert Holgate, archbishop of York, by will, in 1555. The master of this hospital originally was to have yearly twenty marks, and each of the brethren and sisters 3s. 4d. towards their support. Great abuses in the distribution of the rents by the trustees having afterwards happened, who had “combined together to defraud the master, brethren, and sisters, of their land and heredi- taments,”—and in the granting of leases, bills in Chancery were at different times filed, the last in April, 1805, which suit was long protracted; but on the 29th of November, 1816, a decree was pronounced amply to the satisfaction of the present master, the Rev. John Simpson, whose fidelity and resolution, in steadily pursuing the CHAP. X. Barugh. Kexbo- rough. Birthwaite hall. Felkirk. Brierley. Havercroft Cold and South Hiendley. Shafton. Hems- worth. Hospital. 320 HISTORY OF Book VI. rights of the hospital, deserve the highest commendation. The estates belonging to the hospital are all situate in the three ridings of this county. The present reserved rents are nearly £2,000 per annum. The master's share of all the revenues is one-fifth ; and the remaining four-fifths are equally divided amongst the ten brethren and ten sisters, who are each to be not under sixty years of age when elected, except in cases of blindness or other great infirmity.” Thus the poor pensioners have risen from a state of poverty to affluence. The Lord Chancellor is the visitor. - - - School. Here was also founded a free grammar school, by Robert Holgate, archbishop of York, in the last year of Henry VIII. 1546, which he endowed with lands and tenements to the amount, at that time, of £24 per annum. The present re- served rental of that part of the property which is now attached to Hems- worth school is about £150, besides incidental fines on renewal of leases. The entire patronage of, and nomination to the same, is vested in the archbishop of York, and his successors for ever. Archbishop Holgate was born at Hemsworth; and appears to have been not less liberal in disposing of the manors of his see, than he was in founding schools and hospitals. - Hemsworth hall, a neat edifice with pleasant grounds, is the seat of Sir F. L. Wood, Bart. High Hoy. HIGH HOYLAND, six miles from Penistone, is a pleasant parish town, with a popu- land. lation of two hundred and sixty-eight persons. The benefice is a rectory, dedicated to All Saints, value in two medieties,f each £5. 3s. 4d. according to the Liber regis. Patrons, Colonel and Mrs. Beau" mont. West The township of West Clayton has eight hundred and fifty-four inhabitants. ºi. The parish and market town of PENISTONE is situate on the high road from Sheffield to Huddersfield, being distant from the latter town thirteen, and from the former fourteen miles. The population amounted in 1821 to six hundred and fifty-four inhabitants. A market is held here every Thursday, and fairs on the last Thursday in the months of February, March and May, and Thursday after old Michaelmas day, for horses and horned cattle. - The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary return at £146. 18s. 4d. * Carlisle’s Gram. Schools. + Anciently these two medieties had separate patrons, and separate rectors; each incumbent having distinct parsonage-houses, glebes, tithes, &c. and performed the duty alternately. Col. and Mrs. Beaumont having purchased the advowson of the second mediety of the earl of Mexborough, in 1811, there has been but one incumbent since. 4. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 321 Patron, the Right Hon. G. Bosville. The church has a nave, chancel and aisles, CHAP.x. with a tower at the west end. - This is a small market town, little superior to a village, as the population will evince. It is chiefly noted for the number of moor sheep sold at its markets and fairs. - Here is a free grammar school, endowed with £100 per annum, and also the interest of £200 for the education of eight poor girls. Denley is a small chapelry. . - Denley. Ingbirchworth has three hundred and sixty seven inhabitants; Gunthwaite Ingbirch- eighty-six inhabitants; and Hunshelf” contains four hundred and thirty-six persons. 3. The township of Langsetti has three hundred and twenty-five inhabitants, and Y. - Humshelf. Oxspring two hundred and forty-seven inhabitants. - Langsett. The township of Thurlestoneſ has one thousand five hundred and twenty-four º inhabitants. . . St0r1e. Here was born, in 1682, the celebrated Nicholas Saunderson, professor of mathe- Nicholas aunder- matics in the university of Cambridge, and fellow of the Royal Society. When only son. a year old he was, by the small-pox, deprived of his sight; so that he retained no more ideas of light and colour than if he had been born blind. He was sent early in life to the grammar school at Penistone, where he laid the foundation of that knowledge of the Greek and Roman languages, which he afterwards improved so far, by his own application to the classical authors, as to have the works of Euclid, Archimedes, and Diophantus read to him in their original Greek. He died April 19, 1739. After his death, appeared his “Elements of Algebra,” 2 vols. 4to. which was followed, in 1756, by his “Treatise on Fluxions,” 8vo.; - Royston is a parish town, four miles and a half from Barnsley, with a population Royston. of five hundred and forty-nine persons. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary return at £107. It is in the patronage of the archbishop of York. The church, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, is a spacious and well-built structure. Here is a free grammar school, founded by letters patent granted in the 5th of James I., and also a charity, founded by Lady Bolles, for apprenticing poor children. - 2 * Unshiveſ-bridge, a single house in this township, pays yearly to Godfrey Bosville, Esq. of Gunthwaite, two broad-head and two feathered arrows. - - + “A farm house here pays yearly to Godfrey Bosville, Esq. a snowball at midsummer, and a red rose at Christmas.”—Blount's Ancient Tenures. - : “Two farms in this township pay to Godfrey Bosville, Esq. the one a right-hand, and the other a left-hand glove yearly ; and a farm at Softley pays yearly to the same person a whittle.”-Ibid. § Chalmer’s Biog. Dict. Livesey's Illustres Eboracenses. WOL. III. - - 4 N 322 - HISTORY OF B()OK WI. Monk Bretton. Carleton. Chevet. Cudworth. Natton. Woolley. Emley. Silkstone. Barnsley. Monk Bretton is a picturesque village, with a population of nine hundred and sixteen persons. Here is a private chapel, but no chapelry attached. Adam Fitz-Swain founded a monastery here early in the reign of Henry II. of the Cluniac order, to the honour of St. Mary Magdalen. It was at first subordinate to the priory of St. John, at Pontefract. It was situate on the north side of the river Dearn; the church was gone long previous to Burton's time, but the gate remained with some part of the ruins. It was dissolved in 1537. William Brown, the last prior, had a pension of £40 per annum assigned him, which he enjoyed in 1553. An hospital was founded in this place in 1654, in pursuance of the will of Dame Mary Talbot, for six poor widows, who have each an allowance of 40s, and a gown of 10s. value per annum. The township of Carleton has three hundred and twenty-six inhabitants. Chevet has twenty-seven inhabitants. The hall here is the seat of Sir William Pilkington, Bart. The township of Cudworth contains four hundred and eighty- seven, and Natton three hundred and thirty-nine inhabitants. The united chapelry of Woolley and Emley contains four hundred and eighty-two inhabitants. The chapel is a perpetual curacy, in the patronage of Godfrey Wentworth Wentworth, Esq. who has a handsome seat here. The parish of SILKSTONE is situate four miles from Barnsley and Penistone. The township has a population of eight hundred and seven persons. The benefice, a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £17. 13s. 4d. is in the patronage of the archbishop of York. The church, dedicated to All Saints, is a good structure, apparently erected in the latter part of the 14th century. The populous market town of BARNSLEY” is situate on the high road from Sheffield to Leeds, being distant from the latter town nineteen, and from the former fourteen miles. Though a place of considerable importance, (with a population of eight thousand two hundred and eighty-four persons) it is only a township to Silkstone. A market is held here every Wednesday, and fairs the Wednesday before February 28, May 13, and October 11, for horses, horned cattle, &c. The benefice is a perpetual curacy under Silkstone. The church, recently re- built, is a good edifice, comprising a nave, chancel, and aisles, with an embattled tower at the west end. There is some excellent stained glass in the east window. A new episcopal chapel has recently been erected here. The manor belongs to the duke of Leeds. - Wire-drawing was formerly almost the entire trade of this town, but it has now given place to the manufacturing of flax, bleaching of linen yarns, weaving of linen Trade. * Formerly called Bleak Barnsley from its open situation, and not Black Barnsley, as generally represented. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 323 cloth, ducks, diapers, damasks, &c. which is carried on to a very considerable extent.* The wire-drawing business is also carried on here, and Barnsley is said to produce the best wire for needles, &c. in the kingdom. There are also two extensive iron foundries for the casting and making of steam engines, pots, grates, &c. Great quantities of free and grindstones are obtained in this neighbourhood. Excellent coal mines are also wrought here; the beds of coal are from ten to twelve feet thick. This place is well situate for trade, and in addition to its ample supply of fuel, enjoys the advantage of canal navigation. The land about Barnsley is remarkably good, and equally famous for its growth of wheat and other grain, both as to quantity and quality. There is a free grammar school here, founded and endowed by Thomas Kerresforth, Gent. in the year 1665; and chapels for the Methodists, Independents, and Catholics. Cumberworth is a considerable chapelry, with one thousand two hundred and ninety-five inhabitants. The benefice is a perpetual curacy. The township of Hoyland Swaine has seven hundred and thirty-eight inhabitants. Stainborough has one hundred and ninety-four inhabitants. Here is a small chapel-of-ease to Silkstone. Wentworth castle, the magnificent seat of Frederick Vernon Wentworth, Esq., is seated on an eminence, in the centre of an extensive park. The mansion, which occupies the site of an eminent fortress, was built about the year 1730, by Thomas, earl of Strafford, of whom there is a good marble statue, by Ruysbreack, standing in the centre of its area, much injured by time and neglect. It is a large quadrangular building, and over the centre window of the north front are the arms of the founders. The east front of this noble mansion is of a modern character, and was erected by William, earl of Strafford, about 1770. Its archi- tecture is at once both elegant and rich. In the interior are a great many spacious and elegant rooms; but its greatest beauty is to be found in the gallery, one hundred and eighty feet long, by twenty-four broad, and thirty high, divided into three divisions by magnificent pillars of marble with gilt capitals. This room, as well as others in the house, is ornamented with statues, and several pictures by Vandyck, Sir P. Lely, Wanderhelst, &c. The Rev. R. Warner, in his tour, calls this house a heavy tasteless building. The township of Thurgoland has eight hundred and nineteen inhabitants. At Highfield, or Fieldhead, in 1748, was born John Charles Brooke, late Somerset Herald. He was put apprentice to Mr. James Kirkby, chemist, in Bartlett's buildings, London; but discovering a strong turn to heraldic pursuits, * “About thirty-six tons of these articles are sent out of Barnsley every week, the average value of which is about £500 per ton. There are upwards of three thousand looms employed in this town and the neighbouring villages.”—Baines' Yorkshire. CHAP. X. Cumber- worth, Hoyland . Swaine. Stainbo- rough. Went- - worth cas- tle, Thurgo- land. 324 HISTORY OF and having, by a pedigree of the Howard family, which he drew, attracted the notice of the then duke of Norfolk, he procured him a place in the College of Arms, by the title of Rouge Croix Pursuivant, in 1775; from which, in 1778, he was advanced to that of Somerset Herald. He became a member of the Society of Antiquaries, in April, 1775, and enriched their volumes with some curious papers; particularly the illustrations of a Saxon inscription in Kirkdale church, and another in Aldborough church, both in this county. On February 3, 1794, he was suffocated, with his friend, Mr. Pingo, of York, and many other persons, in attempting to get into the pit at the little theatre, Haymarket.* The parish town of TANKERSLEY is situate five miles south of Barnsley, and contains a population of six hundred and twenty-five persons. The benefice, a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £26. 0s. 2%d. is in the patronage of Earl Fitzwilliam. º - The chapelry of Wortley contains nine hundred and four persons. - The chapel is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £98. Patron, J. A. S. Wortley, Esq. - Wortley hall, the elegant seat of James Archibald Stuart Wortley, Esq. is the ancient seat of the Wortleys, of which family was Sir Thomas Wortley, high sheriff of the county in the sixth and seventh year of Henry VII., and a man of great power and consequence in the neighbourhood. From the pedigrees of the family, it appears he allied himself by marriage with two of the most powerful houses in the north of England, the Fitzwilliams and Pilkingtons. - Wharncliffe lodge, the residence of Lady Viscountess Erne, situate on one of the highest peaks of Wharncliffe chase, was built in the time of Henry VIII., by Sir Thomas Wortley. In this house, Lady Mary Wortley Montague spent much of the first two or three years of her married life, the earliest and happiest. Here was born that singular and romantic character, her son. • , Wharncliffe is partly a forest, and partly a deer park. It is still a member of the great estate of the Wortley family, and is now the property of James Archibald Stuart Wortley, Esq. It is famous, also, for being the scene of the old ballad of “The Dragon of Wantley,” and a cleft in the rocks is now called the Dragon's den+ STAINCLIFFE and Ewcrossi wapentake is divided into two portions, called the East and West divisions. The former contains the following parishes:– BOOK WI. Tankers- ley. Wortley, Hall. Wharn- cliffe Lodge. Staincliffe and Ew- CI’OSS Wal- pentake. * Gent.’s Mag. vol. lxiv. - + In Hunter's Hallamshire, the reader will find an interesting account of this place. - . . . . # Staincliffe comprehends the whole of that district called Craven; but the deanery of Craven extends beyond the wapentake. Ewcross is a mountainous district, in which are situate the major part of those curiosities in nature known by the name of “the Caves in Craven;” several accounts as well as views of which are now before the public. . THE COUNTY OF YORK. 325 appingham, BURNSALL, KETTLEWELL, CHAP. X. BARNOLD WICK, CARLETON, KILDwick, gºmºmºsºmsºmºs BRACEWELL, GARGRAVE, LINTON, BROUGHT ON IN AIREDAL.E., KEIGHLEY, MARTON, SKIPTON, THORNTON, The West division contains the following parishes:— ARNEC LIFFE, GIGGLESWICK, LONG PRESTON, BEN THAM, GISBURN, MITTON, Bodron By Bow LAND, - HORTON IN RIBB LESDALE, SAWLEY WITH TOSSIDE, CIAPHAMI, KIRKBY IN MALHAMDALE, SEDB URGH, SLAIDBURN, THORNTON IN LONSDALE. KEIGHLEY is a market and parish town, in the liberty of Clifford's-fee, situate on Keighley. the high road from Halifax to Skipton; distant from the former town twelve miles. The population, in 1821, was nine thousand two hundred and twenty-three persons. A market is held here on Wednesday, and fairs, on the 8th of May, for horned cattle and horses, 9th and 10th, for pedlary ware; November the 7th for horned cattle, horses and sheep, and 8th and 9th for pedlary ware. - This is a town of considerable trade, at the north-western extremity of the Trade. manufacturing district. It is situate in a deep valley, within three or four hundred yards of the south-west bank of the river Aire, over which there is a stone bridge. The town is tolerably well built, almost wholly of stone, the inhabitants of which derive their support from the cotton, linen, and worsted manufactures, which are carried on here with much spirit and industry. The manufacture of worsted may be considered as the staple trade of Keighley, large quantities of which are sold at Bradford and Halifax. The purchasers are chiefly Leeds merchants. The town is supplied with water from two springs, under an act of parliament obtained in 1816. The benefice, a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £21. 0s. 73d., is in the patronage of the duke of Devonshire. • The church, dedicated to St. Andrew, was given at a very early period to the Church. prior and canons of Bolton, by Ralph de Kighley. It was never appropriated; and, after the dissolution of monasteries, the advowson was granted, inter alia, to Henry earl of Cumberland, in the 33d of Henry VIII. In the north-aisle, belonging to Riddlesden hall, are two ancient gravestones, each of which has a cross, and one a sword, and two shields of arms; the higher nearly effaced, the lower charged with a cross fleury, and circumscribed— ©fibertug #ngjian be litſap et jižargaria ińcut ºff. I’42 QP’īl)” iſłłę333.” * This must evidently be an error of Dr. Whitaker’s for McCIII. WOL. III, 4 o 326 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. In 1710, this church was modernised and made uniform;-the body of the church by the parish, and the choir by Mr. Gale, the rector, cousin-german to Dr. Thomas Gale, dean of York, father of the learned Roger Gale, of Scruton. The body of the present church was rebuilt in 1805. Here is a grammar school, founded by John Drake, 1715-16, for the parish of Keighley, to teach Latin, Greek, and English grammatically. It is now chiefly English. Keighley gave name to a family of that name, one of whom, Henry Keighley, interred here, procured from Edward I. for this, his manor, the “ privileges of a market, a fair, and a free warren,” &c. The male issue, in right line of this family, ended in Henry Keighley, one of whose daughters and co-heirs ‘married William Cavendish, then Baron Cavendish, of Hardwicke; and brought with her this manor and estate, in which family it has remained ever since, being now the property of Lord George Cavendish. The parish town of ADDINGHAM is in the liberty of Clifford's-fee, and is six miles distant from Skipton. The population amounts to five thousand one hundred and seventy persons. The benefice, which is a rectory, and valued in the parliamentary returns at £22, 18s. 10d., is in the patronage of Mrs. Cunliffe. The chur&h is dedicated to St. Peter. g Beamsley, in Upper Claro wapentake, has three hundred and twelve inhabitants. The hall is the residence of R. Chippendale, Esq.” Here is an hospital, founded by Margaret, countess of Cumberland, in the thirty-fifth year of the reign of Queen Elizabeth. It was ordered to consist of one mother and twelve sisters, to be named and appointed by George, earl of Cumberland, and the said Margaret, and their heirs; and that the said mother and sisters, and their successors, should be incorporated, and have a common seal. The earl of Thanet is now the heir or representative of the earl and coun- tess of Cumberland, and has the management of the estates and revenues of the hospital.f. * The hospital consists of two distinct buildings, with a small court or garden be- Adding- ham. Beamsley. * “The old hall here was anciently the seat of the family of Clapham. Of this family was John Clapham, a famous esquire in the wars between the houses of York and Lancaster, and who is said to have beheaded with his own hands the earl of Pembroke, in the church porch of Banbury. This family had a chantry and vault in Bolton priory church, and where, according to tradition, they were interred upright.”—Whitaker. + “The total income arising from rents and dividends amounts to gº 357. 9s. 4d. out of which the mother and sisters receive an annual stipend, the mother, of £18, and the sisters, of £16 each, besides which they receive, on commission, a bedstead each, with a few other necessary articles of furniture. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 327 tween them, and contains a chapel and separate apartments for the mother and twelve sisters. The number is duly kept up, according to the foundation deed. The chapel is used for prayer on Sundays and three other days in the week. It is situate on the road side leading from Knaresborough to Skipton, within the township. - - - The parish town of BARNOLDswick, or Gill church, is situate four miles east of Gisborn, and has a population of one thousand three hundred and thirty-four persons. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £62. 9s. 6d. It is in the patronage of Sir John Lister Kaye, Bart. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, appears to have been built soon after the monks left this place, and is situate near a mile and a half from the village, upon the brink of a deep glen, whence it has obtained the name of Gill church. : In 1147, Henry de Lacy founded a monastery here, and translated hither twelve monks and ten conversi, under Alexander, prior of Fountains, for the support of which he assigned the whole town of Barnoldswick. The whole church was levelled to the ground by the abbot. After six years’ residence in continual warfare with the rector and parishioners, and frequent ravages committed upon their lands by the Scots, they abandoned Barnoldswick, and went to Kirkstall. * The situation of this monastery was on the margin of the brook west of the village. The township of Coates has ninety-seven inhabitants. An ancient hall here built by the Drakes, is now converted into cottages. Salterforth has six hundred and eighty-six inhabitants, and Brockden two hundred and thirty-three. BRAcEwBLL is a small parish town, in the liberty of Clifford's-fee. It is situated two miles from Gisburn, and has a population of one hundred and seventy-six persons. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary return at £60. Patron, Lord Grantham. The church, dedicated to St. Michael, is a small but ancient edifice, comprising a nave, chancel, and north aisle, and a tower at the west end. - Here is the ruin of an old hall, built of brick, probably about the time of Henry VIII. formerly the residence of the Tempests. North of this are the remains of a still older mansion of stone, in which is an apartment, called King Henry's parlour, undoubtedly, says Whitaker, one of the retreats of Henry VI. Twenty pounds per annum is given the clergyman for reading prayers, and administering the Sacrament four times a year, and who receives an additional sum of £2, 10s. per annum, for providing the elements. And Lord Thanet's steward receives a salary of 4°10 per annum for superintending the estates and keeping the accounts.”—Langdale. * See vol. ii. p. 569. CHAP. XI. Barnolds- wick. Coates. Salter- forth. Brockden. Bracewell. 328 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Broughton in Airedale Hall. Burnsall. The parish town of BRoughton IN AIREDALE, in the liberty of Clifford's-fee, is situate three miles west of Skipton. The population (including the township of Elslack) amounts to four hundred and twenty-seven persons. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £5. 16s. 1d. Patrons, the dean and chapter of Christ Church, Oxford. The church, dedicated to All Saints, stands in a solitary situation; in it are several mural monuments of the Tempests. e Broughton hall, the ancient seat of S. Tempest, Esq. was built in 1597, just behind their former house, called Gilliot's place, from a knightly family of that name, the heiress of which married a Roger Tempest. The portraits in this house are not numerous; two only deserve to be remèmbered, one of Stephen Tempest, Esq. author of “Religio Laici ;” the other of Francis Tempest, abbot of Lamb- spring, a venerable old man in the Benedictine habit, with a gold cross. In the civil wars of the last century, Broughton, situate on the highway between the hostile garrisons of Skipton and Thornton, had its full share of devastation and misery. It was a tradition told in the hall, that the village had been so completely pillaged of common utensils, that an old helmet travelled from house to house for the purpose of boiling broth and pottage—and that a son of the family was shot on the lawn. - - “At Elslack, in this parish,” says Dodsworth, “is a close, whereon stood a castle, called Burwen castle.” The manor formerly belonged to the Malhams, at the dispersion of whose estates it was purchased by the Benson family. It is now the property of James L. Fox, of Bramham park, Esq. The parish town of BURNSALL, in the liberty of Clifford's-fee, is pleasantly situate on the banks of the Wharfe. It is nine miles and a half from Skipton, and has a population of three hundred and twenty-nine persons. The benefice is a rectory, valued (in two medieties) in the parliamentary return at £63. Patrons, the earl of Craven, and Robinson Chippendale, Esq. Here, in 1612, Sir William Craven, knight, alderman of the city of London, founded and endowed a grammar school; and from an inscription over the door of the church, he appears to have repaired and beautified that handsome building. At the entrance of the choir of this church, each rector has his own stall and Thorpe. pulpit, and from which the service is alternately performed. Thorpe, sometimes called Thorp subtus Montem, is in a most retired situation, within a cavity so encircled by high grounds, that it is difficult to conceive, at first sight, how the waters escape, and why it is not a lake. In a pasture above this village, is a cave, called Knave Knoll Hole, very difficult of access, and, from the narrowness of the entrance, equally difficult to be discovered. For these reasons, it seems to have been a retreat of some ancient banditti. Several years ago, Dr. THE COUNTY OF YORK. - 329 Whitaker discovered in it, besides many bones of sheep, &c. the remains of a human skeleton. Appletreewick contains three hundred and twelve inhabitants. There is a fair held here on October 25, for horses and horned cattle. A charter for this fair and free warren was granted in the fourth year of Edward II. at the instance of Piers de Gavestone, to the prior and canons of Bolton, who were then owners of the manor.” In this village was born William Craven, of poor parents, who are said to have consigned him to a common carrier, for his conveyance to London, where he entered in the service of a mercer and draper. In that situation nothing is known of his history, till, by diligence and frugality, the old virtues of a citizen, he had raised himself to wealth and honour. In 1607, he is described by Camden as “equestri dignitate, et senator Londinensis.” In 1611, he was chosen lord mayor; the time of his death is not known.f. The chapelry of Coniston with Kilnsey has one hundred and thirty-seven inha- bitants. Here is a chapel of ease to Burnsall, dedicated to St. Mary. Kilnsey is remarkable for a lofty range of limestone rock, the highest point of which, denominated Kilnsey cragg, is about one hundred and sixty-five feet, and its length two hundred and seventy yards, or more. The whole of this astonishing mass of limestone stretches nearly half a mile along the valley, and, as a feature in landscape, is certainly superior to the celebrated Gordale scar. To this village, the abbots of Fountains drove their immense flocks of sheep from the surrounding hills, for their annual sheep-shearing. Here, too, they also kept courts for all their manors in Craven, excepting Litton and Longstrother, which last were holden at Litton. The walls of their court-house were remaining at Kilnsey in the forty-first year of Elizabeth. Two ancient arches, rather pointed, adjoining to a house called the Hall (dated W. W. 1644), behind the inn at Kilnsey, still point to some of those remains. The keystone of the larger arch has the remains of a dog or sheep upon it. From the name of chapel-house, * Whitaker’s Hist. of Craven. - + “In him the commercial spirit of the family ended as it had begun. William Craven, his eldest son, having been trained in the armies of Gustavus Adolphus, and William, prince of Orange, became one of the most distinguished soldiers of his time. He was of the number of those gallant Englishmen who served the unfortunate king of Bohemia, from a spirit of romantic attachment to his beautiful consort; and his services are generally supposed to have been privately rewarded with the hand of that princess, after her return in widowhood to her native country. Thus the son of a Wharfedale peasant matched with the sister of Charles I., a remarkable instance of that Providence which “raiseth the poor out of the dust, and setteth him among princes, even the princes of his people.’ He was created baron of Hamstead Marshall, in the 2d Charles I, and earl of Craven, in the 16th Charles II.”— Whitaker’s Ch'aven. + Hist. Craven. WOL. III. 4 P CHAP. X. Appletree- 7 wick. Sir W. Craven. Coniston with Kiln- sey. 330 ~ HISTORY OF BOOK V ſ. Cracow. Hartling- tom. Hetton with Bord- ley. Riłstone. “it seems probable,” says Dr. Whitaker, “ that the monks either had a small cell or a grange, with a chapel annexed, in a picturesque and interesting situation, where an excellent house was built by the late John Tennant, Esq. whose ancestor Jeffry Tennant, of Bordley, purchased the estate of the Gresham family, the grantees of Fountains, in the 14th of Elizabeth.” Cracow has one hundred and seventy-nine, Hartlington, one hundred and forty- one, and Hetton with Bordley, one hundred and eighty inhabitants. r Rilstone is a small chapelry with one hundred and forty-five inhabitants. The chapel is dedicated to St. Peter.” This place gave name and habitation to a family, perhaps of the first antiquity of Craven; as there is reason to suppose that William de Risletona, who occurs in the first charters of Cecelia de Romille, was the William, son of Clarenbald, mentioned in the black book of the exchequer, and undoubtedly a Saxon. The manor continued in the hands of the Rilstones, till Isabella, daughter and heiress of John Rillestone, married Miles, son of Walkin Radcliffe of Todmorden, a descendant of whom married John Norton, father of Richard Norton, who was attainted for high treason. The parish town of CARLETON is situate two miles from Skipton, with a popu- lation of one thousand two hundred and eighteen persons. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary return at £52, 15s. : patrons, the dean and canons of Christchurch, Oxford. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, was erected early in the sixteenth century. s About the year 1700, Mr. Farrand Spence founded an hospital here, for twelve widows belonging to the parish of Carleton, and six to Market-Bosworth, in Leicestershire. The receipts are about twenty guineas per annum. And about the year 1705, a school was founded by Mrs. Elizabeth Wilkinson, for clothing and educating four boys of this parish, and apprenticing them out at the age of fourteen. The charity is now extended to twenty boys, but only four are clothed annually. - Lothersden, says Dr. Whitaker, is a dreary valley, running up into Pinhow, as far as the confines of the parish of Whalley. It is a distinct manor, the property of Lord George Cavendish. - GARGRAVE is a small parish town in the liberty of Clifford's-fee, four miles and a half from Skipton, with a population of nine hundred and seventy-two per- Carleton. Gargrave, * Mr. Wordsworth has written a poem, entitled “The White Doe of Rilston.” It relates to a white doe, which tradition says, for a long time “made a weekly pilgrimage from hence, over the fells of Bolton, and was constantly found in the abbey church-yard, during divine service; after which she returned home as regularly as the rest of the congregation.” THE COUNTY OF YORK. 331 sons. Fairs are held in this town on February 27, the third Wednesday in June, October 13, and December 11. • The benefice, a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £12 13s. 11; d., is in the patronage of J. Marsden, Esq. About half-a-mile beneath the town, on a fertile plain, are the buried remains of a Roman villa, called Kirk Sink, from a tradition that some great ecclesiastical edifice had here been swallowed up. The stones of which this building has been com- posed have gradually been removed, probably to build the present church; but the inequalities upon the surface, prove it to have been a parallelogram, about three hundred feet long, and one hundred and eighty feet wide. It was dug into, about seventy years ago, and the frame of a tesselated pavement discovered at that time, of which Dr. Whitaker had seen some remains, which induced him to apply for permission to open the ground again. But the walls had been so completely grubbed up to the foundation, that though it was just possible to ascertain the size of the apartments, which had been very small, no masses of pavement could be taken up. § Gargrave hall is the neat residence of J. N. Coulthurst, Esq. The township of Bank Newton has one hundred and thirty-nine inhabitants. The township of Eshton has sixty-nine inhabitants. Near Eshton hall (the seat of Miss Currer) is a well, called St. Helen's well, which fills at its source a circular basin twenty feet in circumference, from the bottom of which it boils up, without any visible augmentation in the wettest season, or diminution in the driest. In hot weather the exhalations from its surface are very conspicuous. But the most remarkable thing about this spring is, that, with no petrifying quality in its own basin, after a course of about two hundred yards over a common pebbly channel, with no visible accession from any other source, it is precipitated down a steep descent into the brook, where it petrifies strongly. In 1551, the manor of Eshton was conveyed by Henry Marton, and Launcelot his son, to George, earl of Cumberland who, in 1597-8, mortgaged it to Robert Bindloss, of Berwick hall, for £2,000, with a clause, that upon non-payment of that sum in five years, the purchase should be absolute: it never was redeemed, and the Bindlosses held Eshton till the year 1648, when it was once more sold to Mr. John Wilson, of Threshfield, ancestor of the present possessors.” Cold Coniston has three hundred and forty-five, and Flasby with Winterburn, one hundred and thirty-four inhabitants. Flasby hall is the seat of Cooper Preston, Esq. - The parish and market town of KETTLEwBLL is situate in the wildest and most romantic part of the West riding. It is fourteen miles from Hawes, and has * Whitaker's Craven. CHAP. X. Roman villa. Bank Newton. Eshton. Cold Co- niston. Flasby with Win- terburn. Kettlewell 332 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Kildwick." Bradley’s Both, Cowling, Farnhill with Co- nonley, Glusburn, Stirton with Thorlby, Sutton. Silsden. a population (including the township of Starbottom,) of six hundred and sixty- three persons. A market is held here on Thursday, and fairs on July 6, September 2, and October 23. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary return at £61. 0s. 9d. Patron, the Rev. George Coates. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, which was of high antiquity, probably not later than Henry I. has been pulled down, and a new one erected, in 1820, on its site, on the same plan, only a few yards longer. Kettlewell is situate at the foot of a very steep hill, in a narrow, part of Wharfe- dale; and although the village is large, the buildings are very mean. In the year 1686, this town and Starbottom were nearly destroyed by a violent flood. The situation of these towns is under a large hill, from whence the rain descended with great violence for one hour and a half; at the same time, the hill on one side opening, and casting up water to a prodigious height, demolished several houses, and filled others with gravel to the chamber windows; the affrighted inhabitants fled for their lives, and the loss was computed at many thousand pounds. KILDwick is an inconsiderable parish town, four miles and a quarter from Skipton, containing one hundred and seventy-five inhabitants. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £10, 18s. 1; d. It is in the patronage of the dean and canons of Christ Church, Oxford. The church, dedicated to St. Andrew, is one of two in the whole deanery of Craven, which are mentioned in Domesday book. In it is the recumbent effigy of Sir Robert de Stiverton, in chain and plate armour.” The church seems almost to have been rebuilt in the reign of Henry VIII. Bierly hall, the seat of D. R. Currer, Esq. is a neat but ancient mansion. Kildwick hall, near the church, is a tolerable brick building erected in the 18th century. The following townships contain nothing requiring particular notice: Bradley's Both (population five hundred and six); Cowling (population one thousand eight hundred and seventy); Farnhill with Cononley+ (population one thousand three hundred and fifty); Glusburn (population seven hundred and eighy-seven); Stirton with Thorlby (population one hundred and sixty-eight); Sutton (population one thousand and ninety-two). - The chapelry of Silsden contains one thousand nine hundred and four inhabitants. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £86. Patron, the earl of Thanet. The chapel, a small edifice, is dedicated to St. James, and was consecrated in 1712. * Engraved in Whitaker's Craven, p. 161. + Cononley hall is the seat of J. Swires, Esq. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 333 The township of Steeton with Easburn contains seven hundred and fifty-three inhabitants. The hall is the seat of W. Sugden, Esq. The parish town of LINTON is pleasantly situate on the banks of the Wharfe, seven miles from Kettlewell, with a population of three hundred and thirteen persons. The benefice is a rectory, valued (in two medieties of £16 each, according to the Liber regis) in the parliamentary return at £220. Patron, the king. The church is situate at some distance from the village, on the banks of the Wharfe. Here is an excellent hospital, founded and endowed by Richard Fountain, Esq. of Enfield, Middlesex, a native of the place, who, having acquired a large fortune in London, by will, dated July 15, 1721, ordered an estate to be purchased, out of which £26 per annum should be equally divided among six poor old women or men, in the parish of Linton. They each now receive upwards of twelve guineas per annum, besides the use of a large garden. The founder also left £20 to the minister or ministers of the parish, provided they constantly reside in the parish, and read prayers twice in the week to the poor persons in the hospital. The building is after the style of Sir John Vanbrugh, and is said to have cost £1,500. Grassington has nine hundred and eighty-three inhabitants. Here is a small market on Tuesday, and fairs on March,4, April 24, June 29, and September 26. The neighbourhood of this township is famous for its lead mines,” which have been worked from about the time of James I. Hebden has three hundred and seventy-seven, and Thresfield two hundred and thirty-seven inhabitants. - At the latter place is a grammar school, founded in 1674, by the Rev. Matthew Hewitt, rector of Linton, who endowed it with £20 per annum for the master, and £10 for the usher, and £50 for four exhibitions to four scholars, from this school, to St. John's college, in Cambridge. Although this school cannot boast of late, either of “able masters or hopeful scholars,” Dr. Whitaker informs us, “that the late Bishop Elphin, Dr. Dodgson, as well as the present learned and venerable master of St. John's college, (Dr. William Craven) were among the number of Hewitt’s exhibitioners.” The parish town of MARTON is situate on the high road from Skipton to Clitheroe, being five miles distant from the former town. It contains a population of three hundred and eighty-two persons. The benefice is a rectory, valued in the parliamentary return at £150. Patroness, Mrs. Heber. * Dr. Whitaker says, “the lead on Grassington moor is extremely rich, a ton of ore sometimes yielding sixteen hundred pounds weight of metal; but it is poor in silver.”—History of Craven. WOL. III. - 4 Q CHAP. X. Steeton with Easburn. Linton. Hospital. Grassing- ton. Lead mines. Hebden. Thres- field. Marton. 334 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Skipton. Manor. Marton hall stands low and warm, and is embosomed in wood. It is a respecta- ble and old family mansion, and has been the residence of the Hebers for many generations. Here, in 1728, Reginald Heber, an amiable and learned clergyman, was born. He published, without his name, “ an Elegy, written among the tombs in Westminster Abbey.” He died in 1804. Gledstone hall is the handsome seat of the Rev. W. Roundell. Skipton is a neat market and parish town, in the liberty of Clifford's-fee, ten miles from Keighley, eleven from Gisburn, and forty-one from York. The popula- tion amounted, in 1821, to three thousand four hundred and eleven persons. The town is entirely built of stone, and its principal streets are disposed in the form of the letter Y. In Domesday book and all the early charters, it is called Sciptone, Sceptone, or Sceptetone, evidently derived, says Dr. Whitaker, from the Saxon Sceap—a sheep; and the name was acquired from the vast tracts of sheep- walks which anciently laid around it. Skipton is a place much renowned in history. At the time of the Norman conquest it formed a part of the possessions of Earl Edwin, one of the Saxon thanes; it was afterwards granted to Robert de Romille, one of the followers of the Conqueror, who built Skipton castle, as the seat of his barony, about the end of the reign of that monarch. The erection of this baronial residence elevated Skipton from a village to a town, but it never had a municipal government, nor was it ever represented in parliament. Subsequently the barony of Skipton came by marriage into the Albemarle family, but by the artifices of a bold and officious priest, it was obtained from its rightful owner and vested in the crown. Edward II. bestowed this valuable inheritance on Peirs de Gaveston, who became so obnoxious, by his pride and insolence, to the ancient barons, that they rose in rebellion against his royal master, captured the favourite in the castle of Scarborough, and struck off his head in the castle of Dedington. The next alienation transferred it,” in the year 1311, to a family, who, with the exception of a single attainder, have held it five hundred years, during the larger part of which time they resided at Skipton castle in great wealth and honour. The grant was made to Robert Lord Clifford, by Edward II. in the fourth year of his reign, at which time the annual rent of arable land in Craven was tempence, and pasture land fourpence an acre.* Thomas Lord Clifford next succeeded to the barony, and he had a daughter, Elizabeth, who was married, as Dodsworth says, “ at six yeares olde, being carried to the chappel in Skipton castell, in the armes * “At that period matrimony was subject to a singular toll in the forest of Skipton, and it was ordained ‘that ev'ry bryde cumynge that waye shulde eyther gyve her lefte shoo or iiis. iv.d. to the forester of Crookryse, by way of custome or gaytcloys.”—MSS. in Skipton Castle. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 335 of John Garthe, to Robert son of Sir William Plumpton; he dying, shee was, at xii. yeares of age, mar'd to Wm. the bro. of Rob't, Sir Wm. Plumpton promising that they shold not ligg together (detur hac venia antiquitati) till she was xvi. yeares old, and at xviii. she was mother of Margaret Lady Rawcliffe.” The Cliffords were amongst the first noble families in the kingdom who engaged in the memorable civil wars between the houses of York and Lancaster. They were zealous Lan- casterians, and Thomas Lord Clifford fell in the first battle of St. Albans, fought CHAP. X. on the 22d of May, 1454, when the Yorkists triumphed, and left about five thousand of their enemies stretched upon the field. The events of this fatal day are supposed to have imparted a degree of ferocity to the character of his son and successor, John Lord Clifford. This young nobleman had been engaged in the civil wars from the earliest manhood, and fought at the battle of Wakefield, on the 24th of De- cember, 1430, when the red rose of Lancaster, under the fostering hand of the heroine Margaret of Anjou, queen of Henry VI. again bloomed forth. On that memorable day the duke of York himself was killed, with three thousand of his followers, and his son the earl of Rutland, a youth of seventeen, being brought into the presence of Lord Clifford, the interesting young prince was murdered in cold blood by the savage hands of the vindictive peer!” Nor was this his only bar- barity: his revenge for the death of his father impelled him to other excesses, and Leyland says, “ that for slaughter of men at Wakefield, he was called the boucher.” His own untimely death followed the year after. On the approach of the last decisive battle between the rival houses, his lordship advanced to Ferrybridge with the flower of Craven under his command. After forcing the passage of the Aire, he marched towards Tadcaster; but stopping at a small villaget between Towton and Scarthingwell, he took off his gorget, at which moment he was struck in the throat by a headless arrow, shot out of a bush, and immediately expired. On the following day, the 29th of March, 1461, the decisive battle of Towton was fought ; Edward triumphed, and the hopes of Henry were extinguished in the crimsoned streams of the Wharfe. Four years after the accession of Edward IV. to the throne, Johnſ Lord Clifford was attainted, and the castle, manor, and lordship of Skipton were granted in tail-male to Sir William Stanley, Knight, and subse- quently to the duke of Gloucester. In the first year of the reign of Henry VII. the attainder of Lord John was reversed, together with those of all the other adherents of the house of Lancaster, and the estates of the family were restored to Lord Henry Clifford, his son, surnamed The Shepherd, in the year 1485. For five-and-twenty years the young lord had been immured amongst the fells of Cumberland, and his manners and education were those of a peasant. Conscious * Polyd. Virg. p. 510. + Deindingdale. Battle of Towton. 336 HISTORY OF |BOOK WI. of his defects, and attached to solitude, he spent a large portion of the remainder of his days at Barden, where he studied astronomy and alchemy. At the age of sixty he emerged from his retirement, and was appointed by the king to a command in the English army, at the battle of Flodden Field, where the king of Scotland and the flower of his mobility sunk under the prowess of the English arms. Lord Henry Clifford survived the battle of Flodden ten years, and died on the 23d of April, 1523, aged seventy years. He was succeeded by Henry his son, who was then thirty years of age, and had passed his youth, like our Henry V. among a band of dissolute followers as an outlaw, raising contributions to supply their extravagances from the religious houses and the peaceful husbandmen. Young Clifford was a favourite of Henry VIII. and two years after his accession to the family inheritance he was created earl of Cumberland. On that occasion his lordship made a journey to London, attended by three-and-thirty servants, and it appears from the “househould booke” that the expenses of the journey from Skipton to London amounted to viil. xvs. id. The great gallery in Skipton castle was built by this earl, and the king, as a reward for his courage and loyalty in resisting, though not with complete success, Aske and his fanatical followers, conferred upon him a gift of the priory of Bolton, with the lands thereto belonging in the parish of Skipton, together with the manors of Storithes, Heslewood, Embsay, &c. and the manor of Woodhouse (part of Appletrewick), belonging to the dissolved priory of Morton. To add to his good fortune, the whole Percy fee, equivalent in extent to half of Craven, became vested in the Cliffords in conse- quence of the earl’s marriage with Lady Margaret Percy.” He died April 22, 1542, aged forty-nine years. At his death an inquisition was taken to ascertain the value of his vast estates, which were found to amount to £1,719. 7s. 8d. per annum. Henry, his son, the second earl of Cumberland, succeeded his father, and little more is recorded of him but that he died at Brougham castle, in Westmoreland, and was buried at Skipton. George, the third earl of Cumber- land, was born at Brougham, on the 8th of August, 1558, and succeeded to the title and estates when he was eleven years and five months” old. He married Lady Margaret Russell, third daughter of Francis, duke of Bedford, by whom he had two sons, who died young, and a daughter, Lady Ann Clifford. The earl was a great navigator, and bore a considerable part in the defeat of the Spanish armada. He died in the meridian of life “ of a bloody flux, caused, as was sup- posed, by the wounds and distempers he received formerly in his sea voyages.” In the celebrated family picture in Skipton castle the earl is one of the principal figures, * From Skipton castle to Brougham castle is a distance of seventy miles ; the whole of which exten- sive district, excepting an interval of ten miles, between the top of Longstroth dale and Hell gill, then belonged to the Cliffords. . - - - ſºzºtt： aeeae31：1：1 ſºſ， ſo， on ： =№ Ē T H E COUNTY OF YORK. 337 and in the inscription prefixed to that picture, drawn up by his daughter, assisted, according to tradition, by Sir Matthew Hale, the great law luminary, it is said, that “ This Earl George was a man of many natural perfections, of great wit and judgment, of strong body, and full of agility, of a noble mind, and not subject to pride or arrogance, a man generally beloved in this kingdome.” Lady Ann inherited the principal estates, but the titles, on the death of Earl George, devolved upon Sir Thomas Clifford. Lady Ann first married Richard Sackville, earl of Dorset; and, after his death, the earl of Pembroke and Mont- gomery, whom she also survived. On the death of the last of the earls of Cumberland without issue, which took place in the year 1643, all the lands be- longing to the family reverted to the countess of Pembroke. The countess was an ornament to her age and country, and she died the 22d of March, 1675, aged eighty-seven years. The lady Margaret Sackville, her first daughter and co-heir, by Richard, earl of Dorset, married John Tufton, earl of Thanet, on the 21st of April, 1629; and the manor and castle of Skipton descended, on the death of the countess of Pembroke, to that noble family. John, the second earl, died in the year 1664, and was succeeded by Nicholas, the third earl, who, dying without issue, November the 24th, 1679, was succeeded in the title and estates by Sir John Tufton, his brother, who survived him little more than five months, and died at Skipton castle. His successor was Richard, his younger brother, who died unmarried, March 8, 1683, leaving his honours and estates to his brother Thomas, the sixth earl, who, after having held the honour of Skipton longer, and applied the revenues better than any of his ancestors, with the exception of lady Ann Pembroke, died July 29, 1729. Earl Thomas was succeeded by Sackville Tufton, his youngest brother, who died December 1, 1753, leaving Sackville, his son, who died April 10, 1786, and was succeeded by Sackville, the ninth earl of Thanet, who is the present lord of the honour and castle of Skipton, and the hereditary high sheriff of the county of Westmoreland. Of Skipton castle, as built at the period of the conquest, little remains, except the Western door-way to the inner castle, consisting of a semicircular arch, supported upon square piers. The most ancient part of the castle now remaining consists of seven round towers, partly in the sides, and partly in the angles of the building, connected by rectilinear apartments, which form an irregular quadrangular court within. The walls are from nine to twelve feet thick; this part was the work of * Dr. Whitaker says, all this is true as regårded his public character, but “he was an indifferent and unfaithful husband, and a negligent and thoughtless parent ; he set out with a larger estate than any of his ancestors, and in little more than twenty years he made it one of the least. Fortu- mately for his family, a constitution, originally vigorous, gave way at forty-seven to hardships, anxiety, Wounds, and probably licentiousness.” WOL. III, 4 R CHAP. X. Castle. 338 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Robert de Clifford, in the early part of the reign of Edward II. The eastern part, a single range of building, at least sixty yards long, terminated by an octagon tower, is known to have been built by the first earl of Cumberland. The present entrance, concealing the original Norman door-way, was added by Lady Pembroke; and it is remarkable, that this comparatively modern part of the castle is the only part which threatens to fall, as the old rounders of imperishable stone and cement, which last even hardens with time, contain in themselves no more principle of decay than the rock on which this edifice is erected. Within, however, all is desolation and ruin. In the second great rounder from the entrance is the muniment room of the Cliffords, in which the treasures and the writings were anciently kept. The apartments formed, about sixty years since, out of the gallery, contain several portraits, in a perishing state, particularly the great historical family picture, painted and inscribed under the direction of the countess of Pembroke, -a head of Sir Ingram Clifford; another, called Fair Rosamond, intended for Lady Margaret Percy; and a half-length picture, in a very decayed state, lately dis- covered, and meant, as Dr. Whitaker conjectures, for Lady Eleanor Brandon. Skipton castle, from its importance, and the military character of the families to which it successively belonged, has undergone several sieges, but except it be the Munitiuncula of Hexam, destroyed by the Scots, in the reign of Stephen, of which there is considerable doubt, it never suffered any material injury by belligerent operations, till the time of the civil wars between Charles I. and the parliament. At that time it sustained a siege of three years, against the generals of the parliamentary army, Lambert, Poyntz, and Rossiter; the earl of Cumberland, owner of the castle, being then the lord lieutenant of the West riding, and Sir John Mallory, of Studley, an old and faithful loyalist, the governor: After the surrender of the castle, which fell on the 22d of December, 1645, and the success of the republican cause, parliament issued an order, directing that Skipton castle should be dismantled and demolished. This order was partially carried into effect in 1649; but the countess of Pembroke, the great restorer of ruined edifices, repaired and again rendered it habitable, though not perhaps tenable as a fortress, for which it was never, owing to its exposed situation from the neighbouring heights, very well adapted. Over the modern entrance to the castle, the widow of Dorset and of Pembroke ordered an inscription to be placed, intimating that this castle was repaired by her order, in the years 1657-8, after it had been reduced to ruins by order of the parliament. Since that time, and from the year 1808 to 1818, this ancient structure has undergone several other repairs, and it is now a comfortable and still stately residence. Here and at Appleby castle their noble owner, who generally resides at Hothfield park, in Kent, spends a few weeks every year. - r; * - - º - - º º º | º - --- H = º | º s || || *H C E 2 ºn 9 - - H - * ... - º - * * * º 4 - - - º - - - i. z - o º 2. º º º º s * oºgſtas， remºs： oſ ſa pºſisſaeſo， ： ： ſaenustaea， pºzważu， - ->eo：a:a： THE COUNTY OF YORK. - 339 The benefice, a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £10 12s. 6d. is in the patronage of the dean and chapter of Christ Church, Oxford. The parish church was probably founded at the same time as the castle, by Robert de Romillè, but no part of the original structure remains, except four stone seats, with pointed arches and cylindrical columns, in the south wall of the nave, which may be referred to the period of the eleventh century. The present church is a spacious and substantial building, though evidently built at very different periods. Dr. Whitaker conjectures, that the original church consisted of one, or at most two aisles, and that the whole chancel of three aisles has been added to the original building eastward. This latter work he refers to the time of Richard III. who, when duke of Gloucester, occasionally resided at Skipton castle. The roof, which is flat, and extremely handsome, cannot be of later date than Henry VIII. At the east end are the arms of the priory of Bolton. Beneath the altar, unusually elevated on that account, is the vault of the Cliffords, which was the place of their interment, from the dissolution of Bolton priory to the death of the last earl of Cumberland. Over these relics of departed greatness, there is a gorgeous display of the pomp of heraldry, the pride of genealogy, and the ostentation of noble alliances, of which the Cliffords had to boast as much, perhaps, as any family in the kingdom. First, and immediately over his remains, is a grey marble tomb of Henry the first earl, and Margaret Percy his wife. On the slab are places for their figures; but if ever they were placed there, they have been removed, and the brasses with the epitaphs were stolen away in the civil wars. At the head of this monument is a small altar tomb, to the memory of Francis, Lord Clifford, the infant son of George Clifford, third earl of Cumberland. On the south side of the communion table is a stately tomb of black marble, enclosed with iron rails, and erected by the countess of Pembroke, to the memory of her father, George Clifford, third earl of Cumberland. The last epitaph belonging to this noble family is admired for its brevity, simplicity, and pathos, and is expressed thus:— “Immensi doloris monumentum augustum Henricus pater deflet Franciscum, Carolum, Henricum. A. D. MDCXxxxi.” - These were the sons of the last earl, all of whom died in their infancy. Skipton has long enjoyed the benefit of a well endowed free grammar school, which was founded on the 1st of September, 1548, by William Ermysted, clerk, canon residentiary of St. Paul’s, London, who having long intended to found a school here, for instructing boys in grammar, granted to Sir Ingham Clyfford, Knt. William Tankard, Stephen Tempest, Esqrs. and others, certain messuages, lands, &c. at Addingham, Skipton, and Eastby, &c. for the endowment of a school for the instruction of boys, as well in the first rudiments as in all the art of grammar; CHAP. X. Church. Grammar school. 310 HISTORY OF BOOK VI, Winter- well hall. Trade. directing that, to such school there should be one master, and that he should be a chaplain or priest. The whole rental of the estate, which then amounted only to £9. 15s. 4d. is now about £600 per annum.* Boys are admitted, free of expense, indifferently throughout the parish. The master is also required to explain to the scholars Virgil, Terence, and Ovid, and the other Latin poets, and to teach them to compose epistles, orations, and verses. William Petyt, Esq. in 1707, gave £200 for the support of two poor scholars from this school, at Christ's college, Cam- bridge. And his brother, Silvester Petyt, Esq. formerly of Staple Inn, by his will, left £24,048 Old South Sea Annuities, and a library, at Skipton, the gross annual sum of which fund, in 1815, amounted to £721. 9s. 2d. The objects of these donations are persons, wherever resident, standing in need of immediate relief, after paying £20 a year to Christ college, Cambridge, small salaries to a schoolmaster and librarian at Skipton, and putting out annually about fourteen poor children apprentices in the county of York, and for buying books for the use of the school. The appointment of a master for the grammar school is vested in the vicar and churchwardens, and the present master is the Rev. Thomas Gartham. There formerly stood at the entrance to the town of Skipton from Broughton, an ancient mansion, the residence of the Lamberts, called Winterwell hall, probably from a spring on the premises which was never frozen in winter; but the hall had almost disappeared before the Leeds and Liverpool canal was projected, and the well itself was swallowed up in that great public work. - Skipton is a place of considerable trade and business, and, by its markets and fairs, thrives as a connecting link between the two populous counties of York and Lancaster. The market is on the Saturday, and great quantities of corn are brought eastward, chiefly from Knaresborough, and dispersed from hence into different parts of Craven, and into the north-eastern parts of Lancashire. The only public buildings in Skipton, with the exception of those already mentioned, are the Town hall, in which the general quarter sessions of the peace for the West riding are held once in the year; and the National schools, built by subscription in 1814 and 1816, where a considerable number of boys and girls receive instruction daily, according to Dr. Bell’s system of education. The vale of Skipton is one of the finest and most fertile in England. It contains little tillage, but displays the most luxuriant meadows and pastures that are any where to be seen; the environs, particularly in the neighbourhood of Kildwick and Cross hills, are greatly admired by tourists. Bolton Abbey is a small chapelry, the population amounting to one hundred and twenty-seven persons. Bolton abbey. * Carlisle on Endowed Schools. |- º -º | | H - - º º º § º * 672I （TºT)， S ŽIOI^^H'*'^®* '^IOI; NIH （I, II （±（√（Is Internae （NLOGINĮori |- （III^JLS ĒĢIJĀ, ！№. §§ §№ĒSĒSĒŠĒ §（№S=№ ：-） ---- • THE COUNTY OF YORK. - 341 The church is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Mary and St. Cuthbert, and valued in the parliamentary return at £46. 1s. 11d. It is in the patronage of the duke of Devonshire. - A priory was founded in this neighbourhood, at Embsay, by William de Meschines and Cecilia his wife, in the year 1121, for canons regular of the order of St. Augustine, and continued there about thirty-three years; it is said, by tradition, to have been transferred to this place on the following account:— “The founders were now dead, and had left a daughter who adopted her mother's name, Romillé, and was married to William Fitz-Duncan, nephew of David, king of Scotland. They had issue a son, commonly called the Boy of Egremond, (one of his grandfather's baronies, where he was probably born,) who, surviving an elder brother, became the last hope of the family.” “In the deep solitude of the woods, betwixt Bolton and Barden, four miles up the river, the Wharfe suddenly contracts itself to a rocky channel, little more than four feet wide, and pours through the tremendous fissure with a rapidity proportioned to its confinement. The place was then, as it is yet, called the Strid, from a feat often exercised by persons of more agility than prudence, who stride from brink to brink, regardless of the destruction which waits a faltering step. Such was the fate of young Romillè, who inconsiderately bounding over the chasm with a greyhound in his leash, the animal hung back, and drew his unfortunate master into the torrent. The mis- fortune is said to have occasioned the translation of the priory from Embsay to Bolton, which was the nearest eligible site to the place where it happened.” One of the gates of the priory still remains; and by stopping up its openings, has been converted into a dwelling, (the ground floor being one large room,) and been used as an occasional residence by the duke of Devonshire. This priory was dissolved on the 11th of June, 1540, its revenues being valued at £212. 3s. 4d. ; and in 1543, it was granted to Henry Clifford, earl of Cumberland, in which family it remained till 1635: when Elizabeth, the daughter and sole heiress of Henry the last earl of Cumberland, marrying Richard, the first earl of Burlington, carried the demesnes into that family, whose daughter, Charlotte, sole heiress, married, in 1748, the duke of Devonshire, in whose family the property still continues. The remains of the priory being surrounded by bold and majestic high grounds, are scarcely seen until the traveller arrives on the spot. Bolton priory stands upon a beautiful curvature of the Wharfe, on a level sufficiently elevated to protect it from inundations, and low enough for every purpose of picturesque effect. In the latter respect it has no equal among the northern houses, perhaps not in the kingdom. Opposite to the east window of the priory church, the river washes the rock nearly perpendicular. To the south, all is soft and delicious, but the glories of Bolton are on the north. Whatever the most fastidious taste could require to constitute a WOL. III. 4 s (;|| A P. X. Priory. Remains. 342 HISTORY OF \ perfect landscape, is not only found, but in its proper place. In front, and immediately under the eye, lies a smooth expanse of park-like enclosure, spotted with native elm, ash, &c. of the finest growth; on the right, an oak-wood, with jutting points of grey rock; on the left, a rising copse. Still forward are seen the aged groves of Bolton park, the growth of centuries; and farther yet, the barren and rocky distances of Simonseat and Bardonfell, contrasted to the warmth, fer- tility, and luxuriant foliage of the valley below. About half a mile above Bolton, the valley closes, and on either side the Wharfe is overhung by deep and solemn woods, from which huge perpendicular masses of grit stone jut out at intervals.” Here a tributary stream rushes from a water-fall, and bursts through a woody glen to mingle its waters with the Wharfe. There the Wharfe itself is nearly lost in a deep cleft of the rock, and next becomes an horned flood, enclosing a woody island; sometimes it reposes for a moment, and then resumes its native character, lively, irregular, impetuous. The cleft mentioned above is the tremendous Strid. This chasm, being incapable of receiving the winter floods, has formed on either side a broad strand of native grit-stone, full of rock basins, “ or pots of the lin,” which bear witness to the restless impetuosity of so many northern torrents. But if the Wharfe is here lost to the eye, it repays another sense by its deep and solemn roar, like the voice of “the angry spirit of the waters,” heard far above and beneath, amidst the silence of the surrounding woods. The terminating objects of the landscape are the remains of Barden tower, interesting from their form and situation, but still more so from the recol- lection which they excite. The principal remains of Bolton priory now standing were parts of the church. The choir is still used as a parochial chapel. Over the west door are two escutcheons; that on the north displays the Clifford’s arms, the other, on the south side, a cross formée. The want of a tower detracts much from the beauty of the building. .* Here is a free school, founded about 1698, or 1700, by the Hon. Robert Boyle, who endowed the same with an annual rent-charge of £20; besides this, there are some rents, which, in the whole, amount to £99. 7s.6d. The school is for Latin and Greek; and for the poor people, English, writing, and arithmetic, on paying ls. per quarter. Bolton bridge had anciently a chapel, like many others, for the benefit of travellers. The town field, a plain of inexhaustible fertility, stretched from the bridge to the priory wall; and on this Prince Rupert is said by tradition to have encamped on his way to Marston-moor, in July, 1644.4 * BOOK WI. Schools. Bridge. * Whitaker’s Craven, p.474. t “The elm under which he dimed is remembered by persons now alive, (1805.)”—Whitaker's Craven. - | º | - sº 4. . . . º § º º º THE COUNTY OF YORK." 343 The township of Barden” has two hundred and nineteen inhabitants. Here is a private family chapel not subject to archiepiscopal jurisdiction, served by the minister of Bolton. - - The old tower of Barden seems to have been one of the six lodges belonging to the forest of that place, and originally erected for the accommodation of the keepers and protection of the deer. But the retired habits of Henry, Lord Clifford, lead- ing him to prefer the retreat of Barden to the bustle of his greater houses, he enlarged this lodge for the reception of himself and a modest train of followers. His son, a very different character, only occasionally resided here, and till the latter days of the third earl of Cumberland, it seems never to have been totally neglected by the family. From the inventory taken in 1572, after the death of the second earl, it appears that the hall and kitchen were furnished, but the bed-rooms were empty. When the countess of Pembroke succeeded to her inheritance, Barden had become a ruin, which she repaired in 1657, at an expense of £100; there is an inscription over the principal entrance to that effect. After 1676, Barden was occasionally the residence of the Burlington family; and in 1774 it was entire. The lead and timbers of the roof have since been taken away, and it has now put on that picturesque form which only dilapidating remains have the privi- lege of assuming. - - The township of Draughton has two hundred and seventy-nine persons. Embsay with Easby has eight hundred and sixty-one persons. Here, in the year 1121, William de Meschines and Cecilia his wife founded a priory for canons regular, which was dedicated to St. Cuthbert and St. Mary. It continued about thirty-three years, and was then translated to Bolton. Embsay Kirk, during thirty years the site of the priory, was in 1812 the property of William Baynes, Esq. who erected an excellent house on the spot; in digging the foundations for which, many relics of ancient interments, &c. were discovered. It appears to stand in the middle of the cloister-yard; for when the late occupier, who finished the grounds, began to level a few yards north from the house, the foundations of the priory church were discovered. + The township of East Halton with Bolton has one hundred and forty-one persons. The township of Hazlewood and Storithsi has two hundred and nine in- habitants. Here is a school for the poor of the township, the master of which * Barden is the Valley of the Wild Boar, from Bari, Aper, and Dene, Convallis; and it was well adapted to the habits of that animal, from the deep solitude of its ancient woods, and the profusion of acorns which they must have shed. + Whitaker. It is now the property of Mr. Preston, of Skipton, by marriage of a daughter of the late Mr. Baynes. * , - ‘. . # The remaining townships in this parish are in the upper division of Claro wapentake. CHAP, X. Barden. Tower. Draugh- ton. Embsay with Easby. East Hal. ton with Bolton. Hazle- Wood and Storiths. 344 HISTORY OF BO() K VI. Thornton. Manors. Eareby. Arnecliffe. Halton- gill. receives £15 per annum from Silvester Petyt's charities, the interest of £300. The school house was built about one hundred and twenty years ago, by a person of the name of Winterburne. Mr. Petyt, whose charities were extensive in the neigh- bourhood, appears to have been born at Storiths, in this township. Thornton is a parish town, six miles west of Skipton, containing a population of one thousand eight hundred and twenty-nine persons. The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £19.5s. 2#d. Patron, Sir J. L. Kaye, Bart. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is situate at some distance from the village, and has a nave and chancel with aisles, and a tower at the west end. The latter was erected in 1510, as appears from an inscription on it. - g In this parish are the manors of Thornton, Eureby, and Kellbrook, which have never been separated from the earliest times, but have passed together, and in succession, through the families of Percy, Kyme, Muncey, Roos, Pilkington, Man- ners, Lister, and Kaye. In the 28th of Edward I. Walter de Muncey obtained a charter of free-warren in Thornton, Eureby, and Kellbrook, together with a fair and market at Thornton, viz. a market every Thursday, and a fair there for five days, viz. on the eve, day, and morrow of St. Thomas the Martyr, and two follow- ing days. In 1556, the 3rd and 4th of Philip and Mary, the manor and advowson were alienated by Henry, second earl of Northumberland, to William Lister; through which family they have descended to the present proprietor. Thornton appears to have had some share of the troubles in the time of Charles I. for we find, that the manor house of Sir William Lister was taken by a party of royalists, in July, 1643, sent by Sir John Mallory, from Skipton, which was some time afterwards burnt, and never rebuilt. Several years since, on digging into the rubbish, an apartment was discovered on the ground-floor, with the old furniture undisturbed. Here are alms-houses for five poor widows, founded by the late Joseph Smith, Esq. banker, London, and endowed by him with 3s.6d. each, per week, and coals. At Eareby, in this township, is a school endowed in 1594, by Robert Hindle, , Esq, with £20 per annum, free for reading, for boys within the township and parish of Thornton. The parish town of ARNECLIFFE is situate eleven miles north-east of Settle. The population amounted, in 1821, to one hundred and eighty-nine persons. The benefice, a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary return at £33.6s. 8d., is in the gift of University college, Oxford. The church, dedicated to St. Oswald, is an ancient structure. The chapelry of Haltongill has one hundred and fourteen inhabitants. The chapel is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £60. 7s. 7d. THE COUNTY OF York. - 345 Patron, the vicar of the parish. The chapel, a small edifice, was rebuilt in 1636.4% . - West Halton has one hundred and ninety inhabitants. Halton place is the seat of J. Yorke, Esq. J - - The township of Hawkeswick and Litton has eighty-six inhabitants. The township of Buckden (in the east division of this wapentake) has three hun- dred and eighty-two inhabitants. A fair is held here on October 12 for horned cattle, &c. - At Hubberholme, a sequestered and interesting place, situated on the northern banks of the Wharfe, is a small chapel. It is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Michael, valued, in the parliamentary returns, at £46. 7s. Patron, the vicar of Arnecliffe. - u This chapel bears marks of very high antiquity. Several Norman arches remain entire, though the square piers of some of them were reduced to slender octagons when the chapel underwent a general repair, which seems to have been about the reign of Henry VIII. The steeple is of the same period, if not still later. Over the entrance of the chancel is an entire and curious rood-loft of oak, very handsomely wrought, and painted with broad red lines, on the front of which is the date 1558. F - The parish town of BENTHAM, on the verge of the county, four miles from Ingleton, contains a population of two thousand one hundred and two persons. The benefice is a rectory in the diocese of Chester, valued in the Liber regis at £35. 7s. 84d. It is in the patronage of T. L. Parker, Esq. The church, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, is a good structure. : At this place was born, of poor parents, Thomas Wray, D.D. Fellow of Christ College, Cambridge, and successively chaplain to Archbishops Hutton and Secker. He was a pious, abstemious, mortified man, never married, of weak constitution, of most amiable deportment, yet a zealous reprover of vice in public and in private. He had learned too, from his master, Secker, not to despise the meanest, nor to shrink from the most disgusting offices of his functions. He died at Rochdale, * * * Amongst the singular characters of this country was Mr. Wilson, formerly curate of this place, and father of the late Rev. Edward Wilson, canon of Windsor, He wrote a tract entitled “The Man in the Moon,” which was seriously meant to convey the knowledge of common astronomy in the following strange vehicle: A cobbler, Israel Jobson by name, is supposed to ascend, first to the top of Penigent; and thence, as a second stage, equally practicable, to the moon ; after which he makes a tour of the whole solar system. From this excursion, however, the traveller brings back little in- formation which might not have been had upon earth, excepting that the inhabitants of one of the planets were made of pot-metal. The book is now rarely to be met with.”—Whitaker's Craven. + Whitaker’s Craven. VOL. III. - 4 T CHAP. x. West Hal- ton. Hawkes- wick and Litton. Buckden." Hubber- holme. Bentham. 346 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Ingleton. February, 1778, aged fifty-five, where a plain stone within the altar-rails is erected to his memory. • * Ingleton is a chapelry, ten miles from Settle, with a population of thirteen hun- dred and two persons. The chapel, a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary returns at £116, is in the gift of the rector of Bentham. A fair is held here on November 17. Ingleton is thus noticed by Barnaby in his Journal :— • * Pirgus inest famo, fanum sub acumine collis, Collis ab elatis, actus auctus aquis. The poor man's box is in the temple set, Church under hill, the hill by waters beat. In the neighbourhood of Ingleton are many objects worthy the attention of ad- mirers of romantic scenery. The perpendicular height of Ingleton hill above the level of the sea, according to a late trigonometrical survey, is 2361 feet; the top is plain and horizontal, being almost a mile round, and having the ruins of a wall that once included the whole area, with the remains of a beacon and watchhouse. In time of wars, insurrections, and tumults, and particularly during the incursions of the Scots, a fire was made on this beacon, to give the alarm to the inhabitants of the surrounding country.* The stone, on the summit, and for a great way down its sides, is of a sandy gritty sort. From this stupendous elevation the prospects are romantic, sublime, and extensive. To the east, the picturesque country of Craven presents a confused assemblage of hills, gradually diminishing in height, till they vanish in the horizon. Pennigent, at the distance of four miles, appears to be almost within a leap. Towards the south, the rocks near Settle and Pendle hill, towering aloft, seem close at hand. The northern and north-western prospect exhibits a mass of mountains; Wharnside is within the distance of six miles; Snowden, Cross-fell, &c. are clearly visible. Towards the west, the flat country of Lancashire lies as in a map, and the prospect extends far into the Irish sea. Wharnside, another lofty hill, is about four miles from Ingleborough, in the midst of a vast amphitheatre of hills. There are several tarns, or small lakes, near the top; two of them nearly two hundred yards in length, and almost of an equal extent in breadth. It is obvious to the eye, that this mountain is higher than Ingle- borough. - Weathercoat-cave is one of those natural curiosities in which this part of York- shire abounds. - - . It is a stupendous subterranean cataract, in a huge cave, the top of which is Wharnside * This mountain is the first land that sailors descry in their voyage from Dublin to Lancaster, though nearly thirty miles distant from the sea. - - - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 347 on a level with the adjoining lands. On approaching its brink, the stranger is equally astonished with the sublime and terrible. The margin is surrounded with trees and shrubs, which have an excellent effect, both in guarding and orna- menting the steep and rugged precipices on every side. The cave is divided in two by a rugged and grotesque arch of limestone rock. The whole length from north to south is about sixty yards, and the breadth about thirty. At the south end is the entrance down into the little cave; on the right of which is a subterranean passage, under the rocks, into the great cave; where the astonished stranger sees, with amazement, an immense cataract issuing from a large cavity in the rock, suf- ficient to turn several mills, falling twenty-five yards, in an unbroken sheet, on the rock at the bottom, with a noise that amazes the most intrepid ear. The water disappears as it falls amongst the rocks and pebbles, running, by a subterranean passage, about a mile. The cave is filled with the spray that arises from the water dashing against the bottom; and, from ten till twelve o'clock in the forenoon, when the sun shines bright, a small vivid rainbow appears, which, for colour, size, and situation, is perhaps no where else to be equalled.* Douk cave is situate near to the foot of Ingleborough, on the south; it somewhat resembles Weathercote cave, but is not heightened so much with the grand and the terrible. The stream of this cascade does not fall more than five or six yards, but the subterranean passage out of which it issues is very curious, and by the help of a ladder, and by means of candles, may be explored. - - Chapel-le-dale, or Ingleton-fell, is a chapel to Bentham, of which the rector is patron; valued, in the returns to parliament, at £82. 10s. - Hurtlepot, in this hamlet, is a round deep cavern, between thirty and forty yards in diameter, surrounded with rocks almost on all sides, between thirty and forty feet perpendicular, above a deep black water. Round the top of this horrid place are trees, which grow secure from the axe ; their branches almost meet in the centre, and spread a gloom over a chasm dreadful enough of itself, without being heightened with additional appendages. Large black trout are frequently caught in the night by the neighbouring people. - º ‘. . . . . . The township of Langcliffe has four hundred and twenty inhabitants. . The hall is the seat of Mrs. Swales. . . l The parish town of Bolton by Bowl.AND is situate on the banks of the Ribble, and four miles distant from Gisburne. The population, in 1821, amounted to one thousand two hundred and five persons. A fair is held in this town on June 28 and two following days. : The benefice is a rectory, valued, in the parliamentary returns, at £123. 12s. * Tour to the Caves. CHAP. X. Douk cave. Chapel-le- dale. Hurtlepot. Langcliffe. Bolton by Bowland. 348 HISTORY OF BOOK WI, Bolton hall. Forest. Brows- holme. Patron, J. Bolton, Esq. The church, dedicated to St. Peter, is a plain building; in it is the famous monument of Sir Ralph Pudsay, with his three wives and twenty- five children, all engraven in relief, upon a slab of grey Craven limestone. The slab is ten feet long, five feet nine inches broad, and nine inches thick. Bolton hall, the ancient residence of the family of Pudsay, says Dodsworth, “stands very pleasantly among sweet woods and fruitful hills.” Here Sir Ralph Pudsay sheltered his persecuted sovereign Henry VI. after the battle of Hexham, and here still are preserved a pair of boots, a pair of gloves, and a spoon, which the unfortunate monarch left, either from haste and trepidation, or as tokens of regard for the family. An adjoining well still retains the name of “ King Harry, ” who is said to have directed it to be dug and walled, in its present shape, for a cold bath. The manor and advowson were purchased for £42,000 by John Bolton, of Liverpool, Esq. the present owner. - - Bowland forest, anciently a forest, as its name implies, extends over a large tract of country on the borders of Lancashire, and is divided into two town- ships, denominated Upper and Lower Forest of Bowland. Though Bowland is principally enclosed, it is still ranged by herds of deer, under the jurisdiction of a master forester here, in allusion to the name of the forest, called Bowbearer, who has under him an inferior keeper. The former office is now held by Thomas Lister Parker, Esq. as it has long been by his ancestors. On an elevated situation in the forest of Bowland is the ancient house of Browsholme, the seat of T. L. Parker, Esq. for more than three centuries the residence of a family, who probably derive both their name and arms from the office of park-keeper or parker. Here is a good old library, a large collection of coins, and a valuable assemblage of MSS. A most important relic preserved here is the original seal of the commonwealth; it is of very massy silver, and is inscribed the “Seal for the approbation of Ministers.” In the centre are two branches of palm, and within them an open book, inscribed, “the Word of God.” In 1805 a fine herd of wild deer, the last vestige of feudal superiority in the domains of the Lacies, were destroyed here. The loss, however, of these ancient ornaments of the forest has in some degree been compensated by the late im- provements of the house and grounds at Browsholme. The dining room is adorned with many of the best paintings of Northcote, and the house contains many paint- ings by the best Flemish masters. The hall is furnished with numerous anti- quities, such as the Ribchester inscription of the 20th legion, celts, fibulae, different pieces of armour, and a small spur found in the apartment called King Henry the Sixth's, at Waddington hall. - CLAPHAM is a small parish town, six miles from Settle, with a population (including Newby) of nine hundred and eighty-two persons. Fairs are held on - | | | - - THE COUNTY OF YORK. •. 349 Ash Wednesday, May 2, July 31, and October 2. This town is chartered for a market on Thursday, but not held. The church is a vicarage, in the diocese of Chester, valued in the Liber regis at £5. 17s. 1d. Patron, the bishop of Chester. In 1815 Henry Winterburne founded a school here, for the education of eight poor children of Clapham, and endowed it with £20. - - Clapham lodge is the seat of James Farrer, Esq. One circumstance with respect to Fiezer, in this parish, deserves to be mentioned. Of ten houses seven are always in the township of Lawkland, and parish of Clap- ham; one is always in the parish of Giggleswick; and the remaining two, one year within Clapham, and the next within Giggleswick. The inhabitants have seats in both churches, and resort to them alternately, and pay corn-tithe to the rectors, and Easter-dues to the vicars of the two churches alternately; but all pay their assessed taxes to Stainforth.* The township of Austwick has five hundred and fifty-six inhabitants. A fair is held here on the Thursday before Whitsuntide for horned cattle, &c. Austwick hall is the seat of C. Ingleby, Esq. - Lawkland has three hundred and fifty-one inhabitants. Adjoining to this place is an ancient chapel, called Eldroth chapel, the rent of the lands belonging to which go towards the education of six children. No service is performed at the chapel. The parish town of GIGGLESWICK is situate one mile from Settle, and has a population of seven hundred and forty-six persons. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary returns at £75. It is in the alternate presentation of J. Coulthurst and J. Hartley, Esqrs. The church, dedicated to St. Alkald, is a large, uniform, and handsome building, exactly in the style of the other churches in Craven, which are known to have been rebuilt in the reigns of Henry VII. and VIII. This place has long been celebrated for its grammar school, founded by King Edward VI. in 1553, on the petition of John Nowell, clerk, then his Majesty's chaplain and vicar of Giggleswick, and of other inhabitants of the town and parish. The endowment in lands, value £23. 3s. was part of the possessions belonging to the dissolved monastery of Nether Acaster, lying at North Cave, South and North Kelthorp, &c.; but in consequence of the drainage, enclosures, and other improve- ments, its present amount is upwards of £1000 per annum. The grant is only for two preceptors, but there are now three, two for classics, and one for mathematics. The number of pupils is limited only by the want of room, who are admitted “from every quarter of the globe,” if their moral characters be good, and are taught CHAP. X. * Whitaker’s Hist, of Craven. WOL. III, f 4 U Austwick. Lawkland. Giggles- wick. Grammar- school. 350 r HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Scar. Settle. gratis. There are six scholarships at Christ College, Cambridge, founded by Mr. Carr, for scholars educated at this school. The late Archdeacon Paley received his classical education at this school, under his father, who was head master nearly fifty years.” - Here is also a national school, very liberally endowed by the Rev. John Clapham, vicar, and others; its revenues are worth about £50 per annum. About the centre of that prodigious scar, called Giggleswick scar, which skirts the road for nearly two miles from Giggleswick to Clapham, and close to the road side, is situate the celebrated ebbing and flowing well, whose waters, clear as crystal, are constantly ebbing and flowing, although at thirty miles distance from the sea. The changes of ebbing and flowing vary, being considerably influenced by the wetness or dryness of the season; sometimes once in five minutes, at others not more than four or five times in a day. Various have been the opinions given in explanation of this rare phenomenon, but none more in unison with our own than the following, which are extracted, not as new, either to ourselves or the public, from the “Northern Star,” of 1817. The writer of the article alluded to observes, that it, “in all probability, results from a simple piece of mechanism, hidden from the observation of man in the bowels of the earth; namely, a valvular construction at the mouth of the spring, or at some point in the subterraneous passage of the water, formed by a loose stone, and suspended horizontally by two opposite points consti- tuting its axis: the valve thus formed will move on its own central points, and, uninfluenced by water to a certain extent, closes the outlet, and consequently causes an accumulation between the valve and the source of the spring. When the water has increased until its level rises considerably above the centre of the valve, the weight of the water turns it upon its axis, and it is poured with velocity into its com- mon course.” - - Opposite the Scar, and near the village, is Giggleswick Tarn, a large lake, partly natural and partly artificial. º SETTLE is a market town, though only a township of Giggleswick. It is situate eleven miles from Gisburn, and contains a population of one thousand five hundred and eight persons. The market is held on Tuesday, and fairs on the Tuesday before Palm Sunday, Thursday before Good Friday, and every other Friday, till * Carlisle's Grammar Schools. † Drunken Barnaby, in his Northern Tour, thus describes this well : — Veni Giggleswick; parum frugis Profert tellus clausa jugis; Ibi vena prope viae Fluit, refluit, nocte, die, Neque norunt unde vena, An a sale vel arena. THE COUNTY of York. 351 Whitsuntide, for cattle ; April 26th, for sheep, lambs, and horses; Whit-Tuesday for pedlary; August 19th, and two following days, and Tuesday after October 27th, and every other Monday throughout the year, for fat cattle. This town, which may be considered as the capital of Ribblesdale, derives its name from the Saxon word Seel, a seat. It forms a part of the Percy Fee, and was included in a charter of free warren, granted in the 4th of Edward II. to Henry de Percy, along with “Gygleswyke and Routhmel.” At that time landed property in this district produced but a small revenue, as it appears from the MSS. in Skip- ton castle, relating to the Percy fee, that the sum-total of annual rents then received by the Northumberland family, for their manors and estates in Ribblesdale, extend- ing from Sallay abbey, south, to Pennigent, north, a district nearly twenty miles in length, was only £91. 1s. 23d. The situation of Settle is picturesque and singular. Castleberg, a conical limestone rock, 210 feet high, backed by a cluster of rugged crags, and in ages past undoubtedly crowned with a fortification, rises almost perpendicularly above the town. The projecting top of this hill once formed the gnomon of a rude, but magnificent sun-dial, the shadow of which passing over some grey stones upon its side marked the progress of time to the inhabitants of the town beneath, but the hour-marks have long been removed, and few remember the history of their old benefactor. The summit of this hill affords a beautiful and extensive prospect. From this eminence may be seen Pendle hill on the south, Pennigent on the north, and Ingleborough towards the north-west, rearing their lofty heads above the neighbouring hills, while to the south, a rich and delightful vale opening to the west displays an extensive landscape, and the whole scene is truly sublime. The luxuriant verdure of the low lands in this neighbourhood can nowhere be surpassed.* • Stainforth is a small township, with two hundred and thirty-five inhabitants. At this place is a very beautiful waterfall in the Ribble, called Stainforth force. Though on a smaller scale, it may be compared with the celebrated force at Aysgarth. There are two or three other waterfalls upon Mr. Forster's estate, one in particular, called Cataract force. The parish town of GISBURN is situate seven miles from Clitheroe, in Lan- cashire. The population, in 1821, amounted to six hundred and ninety persons. A market is held here on Monday, and several fairs during the year. The benefice, a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary return at £120, is in the patronage of the king. - * Its fertility is such, that a statute acre of this land lets for £6 a year; and near the town 489 per statute acre is given for some choice meadow. The land here is used principally for grazing, as the fogs and rains which so frequently prevail prevent the corn ripening, and the burden of tithes discourage arable cultivation, which could indeed be applied to little advantage under the pressure of such a rental. y CHAP. X. Castle- berg. Stainforth. Gisburn. . 352 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Park. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, was given to the nunnery of Stainfield, Lincolnshire, is a respectable structure, built of stone, and probably not older than the time of Henry VII. or VIII.” Gisburn park, the seat of Lord Ribblesdale, is pleasantly situate on an eminence, surrounded with luxuriant and highly cultivated scenery. The house is a neat edifice, and the interior is fitted up with considerable taste. This park is chiefly remarkable for a herd of wild cattle, descendants of that indigenous race which Lodge. Gisburn Forest. Manor. Nappa, News- holme, Horton, Midhope, Swinden, Paythorne. Rimington. once peopled the great forest of Lancashire. They are white, save the tips of their noses, which are black; rather mischievous, especially when guarding their young— they breed with tame cattle. Gisburn park is beautifully situate at the confluence of the Ribble and Stockbeck. The lodge, through which is the entrance into the park, is a fine piece of Gothic architecture, nobly ornamented with figures, the pinnacles, &c. carved with great taste and elegance from designs of the present noble owner. In the house is a series of good paintings, among which are the lord chief justice of the time of Henry VIII.; General Lambert, apparently an original; his Son, an excellent paint- ing, by himself; and above, Oliver Cromwell, by Sir Peter Lely. Here is preserved an ancient drinking horn, taken from a buffalo, which is nearly twenty inches long, and contains two quarts. It is supported by three silver feet, resembling those of a man in armour, and round the middle is a filleting, inscribed—“ Qui pungat contra tres perdet duos”—he that fights against three shall lose two. Gisburn Forest contains four hundred and fifty-seven persons. Here is a chapel, which is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Bartholomew, valued in the parlia- mentary return at £49. 9s. 9d. Patron, the vicar of Gisburn. The manor of Gisburn Forest properly belongs to the lord of the Percy-fee; but the abbot and convent of Sallay had the wood and herbage. It was, however, lately claimed by Thomas Browne, Esq., of Burton-upon-Trent, as owner of the principal estate in Gisburn Forest. This manor is now enjoyed by Mr. Browne. The chapel is situate at the northern extremity of the township, and appears a question with Dr. Whitaker whether it is within the forest or not. Within the manor of Gisburn is a small, but very entire, square fort, called Castle-Haugh, and near it is a barrow, which, being opened, was found to contain a rude earthen urn. The following townships only require a slight notice: Nappa (population forty- four), Newsholme (population seventy-five), Horton (population one hundred and eighty-seven), Midhope (population one hundred), Swinden (population thirty-seven), Paythorne (population two hundred and forty-two.) Rimington has six hundred and ninety-eight inhabitants. * This church was probably founded in the latter part of the reign of Henry VI. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 353 This manor has long been remarkable for a rich vein of lead-ore, which yielded a considerable proportion of silver; and it is not more than fifty years since a person was convicted and executed at York for counterfeiting the silver coin in metal supposed to be procured from the lead of Rimington. William Pudsey, Esq., who held the estate:from 1577 to 1629, is reported in the traditions of the neighbour- hood nearly to have forfeited his life from coining shillings from silver-ore obtained here. They were marked with an escalop, which the country people called Pudsey shillings. - The parish town of HoRTON in RIBBLESDALE, five miles and a half from Settle, has five hundred and fifty-eight inhabitants. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £55. The church, dedicated to St. Oswald, is an ancient edifice, kept in good repair. In the interior there is nothing particularly requiring notice. This parish lays in Ribblesdale, whose beauties may be said to expire at Horton; stretching along the valley about eight miles from north to south, and from the skirts of Ingleborough to the summit of Pennigent, in the opposite direction, it contains within its limits the source of the Ribble and the Wharfe, and is enclosed between two of the most distinguished mountains in the island. Here is a free grammar-school, founded about the year 1725, by John Armit- stead, Gent., who endowed it with land and money, with which estates were pur- chased by the then trustees. The present rental is £180 per annum, but is capable of increase. The school is open to the boys of the parish indefinitely, free of expense. They are admitted at any age, and may remain until they have finished their classical education.* - The late Rev. G. Holden, LL.D., who held the advowson of the church, and died in February, 1821, in the sixty-fourth year of his age, was master of this school for forty years, during which period he educated a greater number of clergymen for the establishment than most men in a similar situation. He was a man of high classical and mathematical attainments. + * Pennigent hill, in this parish, is a towering mountain, whose height Mr. Jeffries found to be 3,220 feet above the level of the sea. On the base of this mountain are two awful orifices, called Hulpit and Huntpit holes; the former looks like the ruins of an enormous castle, with the walls standing and the roof fallen in ; the latter resembles a deep funnel, dangerous to approach. Horton-Beck runs through one of these pits, and Bransil-Beck through the other; each of these brooks passes under- ground for about a mile, Horton-Beck emerging again at Dowgill-Scar, and Bransil- Beck at Bransil-Head; but, what is more extraordinary, these subterraneous brooks cross each other in the bowels of the earth without mixing their waters, the bed * Carlisle’s Grammar Schools. f Gent.’s Mag. WOL. III. - - 4 x CHAP. X. Horton. Grammar- school. Pennigent hill. 354 - HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Kirkby in Malham- daie. Church. School. Malham. of the one being one stratum above the other, which circumstance was discovered by the muddy water, after a sheep-washing, going down the one passage, and the husks of oats down the other. On the west side of the base of this mountain are the remains of many ancient places of interment, called giants’ graves, some of which have been opened, and found to contain skeletons, bedded in peat earth, none of which appeared to be larger than the ordinary size.* KIRKBY in MALHAMDALE is a small parish town, situate in a deep valley, six miles from Settle, containing a population of two hundred and four persons. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary return at £43. 10s. Patron, the duke of Devonshire. The church, dedicated to St. James, is a large, handsome, and uniform building, built of red stone, probably of the age of Henry VII. In the chapel, at the east end of the south aisle, is a mural monument, with the arms of Lambert. It is to the memory of John Lambert, of Calton hall, son and heir to Major-general Lam- bert, and the last male heir, in whom that ancient family of the Lamberts, in a line from the Conqueror, is now extinct. This church belonged to the abbey of West Dereham till the dissolution, the monks of which abbey had a cell here in the reign of Edward II. It appears to have been garrisoned for the parliament by the first of the family of Kings of Skelland, who came out of Westmoreland. F - Here is a school, supposed to be founded by one of the Lamberts, of Calton, originally for Latin only, but of late years the master has introduced English; it is endowed with about £20 per annum, arising chiefly out of rents of lands a Kirkby- Malhamdale and Hanlith, and money in the funds, left by Mrs. Nelson, of Calton. The township of Malham contains two hundred and twenty-six persons. Fairs are held here on July 1 and October 15, for sheep. - - The village, situate in a deep and verdant vale, is chiefly remarkable on account of an immense cragg of limestone, called Malham-Cove. It is 286 feet high, stretching in the shape of the segment of a large circle across the whole valley, and forming a termination at once so august and tremendous, that the imagination can scarcely figure any form or scale of rock within the bounds of probability that shall go beyond it : at the bottom of the cove is an outlet for the waters of the lake above. In rainy seasons, however, the overflowings of the lake spread them- selves over the shelving surface of the rocks below, and precipitating from the centre of the cove, form a tremendous cataract of nearly 300 feet. Malham tarn, or lake, (the former word signifying, in the dialect of the north of England, a small lake,) is of a circular form, and not less than a mile in diameter. Its situation is high and bleak: but is inestimable for its fishery of trout and perch, which grow to an unusual size. ... r - Cove. * Tour to the Caves. . + Hist, Craven, p. 192. | == - - - - - - - - JºJLJſ, AT (G.O.R.D.A.L.E. - - London publishºp BY. IT HINTON 4 war-wick Squarº. º THE county of York. 355 This lake may be considered as the source of the Aire, which, bursting out in an abundant torrent from among the noblest rocks of Britain, instantly declines into a silent and insignificant stream; but in its course towards the sea, becomes, in a mer- cantile point of view, one of the principal rivers in the county. Not far from this village is Jennets-Cave, so called from a supposed queen or governess of a numerous tribe of fairies, which tradition assures us anciently resorted here: it is a spacious and gloomy cavern, surrounded with evergreens; no place could be more calculated to produce those fanciful ideas, than this ivy-circled mansion, when visited by moonlight, where imagination might see “Aerial forms athwart the solemn gloom, Tremendous sweep, or seem to sweep along.” Not far from Malham is Gordale-Scar, one of the most stupendous scenes in Yorkshire, immensity and horror being its inseparable companions, uniting together to form subjects of the most awful cast. The rocks are of extraordinary height, being not less than 300 feet, and in some places projecting more than ten yards over their base. An opening was formed in this limestone rock by a great body of water, which collected in a sudden thunder storm about 1730, and now forms a highly romantic cascade of twenty or thirty yards in height. Aº Malham Moor (population eighty-eight); Scasthorpe (population one hundred and two); Airton (population one hundred and eighty-seven), and Hanlith (forty- six inhabitants), require no further notice. The township of Calton (in the east division of this wapentake) contains seventy- six persons. This is a small village situate upon a hill, on the east banks of the Aire, consisting entirely of abbey-land, which was shared between the houses of Fountains, Dereham, and Bolton; the last of which had the manor. It is chiefly memorable for the origin of Major-General Lambert, who was a prominent personage in the wars between Charles I. and his parliament. The parish of LoNg PRESTON is situate four miles and a half south of Settle, and contains seven hundred and thirty-three inhabitants. Fairs are held here on March 1 and September 4, for horned cattle, &c. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £10. 18s. 11; d. Patrons, the dean and canons of Christ Church, Oxford. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a good edifice of stone. The prior and canons of Bolton appear to have presented to this church ever since the endowment of the vicarage, in 1303, to the dissolution of their house, when the CHAP. X. Jennets- Cave. Gordale- Scar. - Malham Moor. Scasthorpe Airton. Hanlith. Calton. Long Pres- ton. - rectory and advowson were granted by Henry VIII. to Christ Church, Oxford. In this church was a chantry, dedicated to our Lady and St. Anne, founded by Richard 356 HISTORY OF Hammerton, Knt, according to the return of chantries made by Archbishop Holgate, and valued at £5.6s. 8d. per annum.* ~. Here are ten alms houses, with a chapel for reading prayers, founded by James Knowles, by will, dated 1613-14, for ten poor men or women, and endowed by him with land, worth, in 1786, £49. 15s. per annum. - Hellifield has two hundred and seventy-nine inhabitants. Hellifield Peel is the ancient seat of James Hamerton, Esq. - Hellifield Peel stands upon a flat, and was once, probably, surrounded by a moat. It was built by Lawrence Hamerton, about the 19th of Henry VI. at which time he obtained a license to fortify and embattle his manor-house of Hellifield. It still remains a square compact building, but of too narrow dimensions to accommodate the family in the splendid style in which they then lived, and therefore intended rather as a place of retreat in cases of sudden alarm. The house has been modernized by the present owner. - - - Hellifield, anciently Helgefelt, or the field of Helgh, its first Saxon possessor, was held by its mesne lords of the knights of St. John of Jerusalem, and by them of the Percies, as chief lords of the fee. In the 9th of Edward II. it appears from Kirkby's Inquisition, that Sir John de Harcourt and the prior of St. John of Jerusalem were joint lords of this manor. Sir Stephen Hamerton, in 1537, joined the insurgents, in the great northern insurrection; and after having availed himself of the king's pardon, revolted a second time; after which, having been taken prisoner, he was conveyed to London, and shortly after attainted and executed. Hellifield was, however, preserved by a settlement for the life of the widow of John Hamerton, who was mother of Sir Stephen. But Hellifield Peel remained in the crown till the 37th of Henry VIII. when it was granted by that king to George Brown and his heirs, to be held of the king in capite, for the consideration of £296. 9s. 2d. In the 3d of Elizabeth, it returned to the family again, in the person of John Hamerton, Esq. where it has remained ever since. The first of the name of Hamerton that occurs here is Richard de Hamerton, in 1170, in the 26th of Henry II.F p West Halton gave name to a very ancient family, which bore, Arg., two bars Az., the last heiress of whom, in the 3d of Richard III. added it to the great estate of the Talbots, of Bashall, by marrying Sir Thomas Talbot, Knt. Halton remained in the Talbot family till their extinction, about the year 1660. It is now, by pur- chase, the property of John Yorke, Esq. who has greatly enhanced the value of the estate by judicious improvements, i. The township of Wigglesworth has four hundred and seventy-nine inhabitants. |BOOK WI. Hellifield. West Halton. Wiggles- worth. * Hist. Craven, p. 192. + Whitaker's Craven. - # Ibid. THE COUNTY OF YORK. - 357 Here is a school, free for all the children in the township, founded by Lawrence CHAP. x. Clark, about the year 1800. The parish town of MITTON* contains three hundred and twenty-four inhabitants. Mitton. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary return at £140. Patron, the earl of Lichfield. The church is dedicated to St. Michael. r The township of Bashall Eaves+ has three hundred and forty-eight, and West Bashau Bradford five hundred and sixty-four inhabitants. #. The chapelry of Grindleton has one thousand one hundred and twenty-five in- *..., habitants. It is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £95. Patron, the vicar of Mitton. - The chapelry of Waddington contains six hundred and eighty-seven persons. wadding- The benefice is a perpetual curacy, in the patronage of T. L. Parker, Esq. The “” church, dedicated to St. Helen, was rebuilt early in the reign of Henry VIII. This place, at the time of Domesday, was a parcel of the Terra Rogeri Pictavi- ensis. In the time of Edward I. it appears to have been in the possession of the Tempests, in which family it continued till the reign of Charles I. Waddington hall, though constructed of strong old masonry, has nearly lost all appearances of an- tiquity. - - - Here is an hospital, founded in 1701, by Robert Parker, for ten widows; Hospital. attached to which, is an oratory for divine worship, for which the founder ordered prayers to be read daily, morning and evening. In 1709, the rental of the estate belonging to this hospital was £66. 8s. In 1799, it amounted to £254, and instead of ten, there were then fifteen widows. The pious founder died early in life, and was buried in the church-yard of Waddington. An alms-house was founded here in 1690, for twenty poor people of the township of Aighton, Bailey, Chidsley, Mitton, Wismell, and Ribchester; and endowed with £6. 13s. 4d. per month, and a suit of clothes to each, every year. Sawley with TossIDE is a small place, extra parochial. Sawley The market and parish town of SEDBURGH, situate at the northern extremity of *ia. the West riding, at the distance of fourteen miles from Hawes, has a population *** of two thousand and twenty-two persons. The market is held on Wednesday; and fairs on March 20 and October 29, for horned cattle, &c. e The benefice is a vicarage, in the diocese of Chester, valued in the Liber regis at £12. 8s. Patron, Trinity college, Cambridge. The church is dedicated to St. Andrew. - - - - Sedburgh is pleasantly situate in a secluded vale, among rugged mountains, at the north-west extremity of the county, upon the small river Rother. The township of * Part of this parish is in Blackburn hundred, Lancashire. + The hall, erected in the time of Charles I. is a large and handsome edifice. WOL. III. 4 Y 358 HISTORY OF 13OOK WI. School. Dent. Garsdale. grounds, presents a picture of a terrestrial paradise. Sedbergh is divided into four parts, called hamlets, viz. Frostow and Soolbank, Marthwaite, Cautley and Doughbiggin, and Howgill and Bland. Here are chapels for the Wesleyan Methodists and Independents, and a meeting-house for the Friends. The town of Sedburgh does not contain any thing of particular interest, except the grammar school, founded by R. Lupton, D. D. provost of Eton, in the reign of Edward III. of which the masters and fellows of St. John's college, Cambridge, are patrons, value about £600 per annum; the present master is the Rev. Henry Wilkinson. There are three fellowships and eight scholarships, at St. John's college, Cambridge, for students from this school. This is also one of the schools which is entitled to send a candidate for Lady Elizabeth Hastings' exhibitions. Among the many eminent men educated at this school, was Robert William, a physician of very considerable eminence, and born at the Hill, near the town, in 1757. He was edu- cated in the principles of the Quakers, and received his scholastic tuition in the grammar school of the place of his nativity, under the care of the Rev. Dr. Bateman and the celebrated Mr. Dawson. He died in 1812. - The humane Dr. Anthony Fothergill was born at Sedburgh, in 1732-3; and his medical studies were diligently pursued, first at Edinburgh, afterwards at Leyden, and finally at the Sorbonne at Paris. He obtained the degree of M. D. at Edinburgh, in 1763, on his thesis, “De Febre intermittente,” and soon after he commenced practice at Northampton. In 1778, he was elected F. R. S.; in 1781, he removed to London; and in 1784, to Bath. In 1803, having acquired a fortune sufficient to enable him to relinquish the duties of his profession, he sailed for Philadelphia, where he resided till the political disputes between Great Britain and America assumed a warlike appearance, in 1812, when he returned to London. He died May 11, 1813. : Dent is a small chapelry and market town, having seventeen hundred and eighty- two inhabitants. The market is held on Friday, and there are fairs for horned cattle, &c. on the first Friday after February 13, and every fortnight, until May 12. This town is situate near the extremity of Craven, in the centre of a dale, to which the town gives the name of Dent-dale. This dale is entirely surrounded with high mountains, and has only one opening from the west, where a carriage can enter with safety. It is about twelve miles in length, and from one and a half to two miles in breadth. The whole dale is enclosed; and viewed from the higher The chapel, dedicated to St. Andrew, valued in the parliamentary return at £13. 18s., is in the patronage of twenty-four sidesmen. - The chapelry of Garsdale has six hundred and seventy-nine inhabitants. The chapel, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, is valued in the parliamentary return at £80. 2s. Patron, the king. THE COUNTY OF YORK, 359 The parish town of SLAIDBURN, on the banks of the river Hodder, at the distance of nine miles from Clitheroe, Lancashire, contains nine hundred and fourteen inhabitants. - The benefice, a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £28, is in the patronage of the Rev. H. Wigglesworth. - The church, dedicated to St. Andrew, is a large and handsome structure of red fellstone, apparently built about the time of Henry VIII. The township of Easington contains five hundred and one inhabitants. Newton contains five hundred and eighty-one inhabitants. Fairs are held here on March 14, April 14, and September 16. Newton hall is the neat seat of Thomas Parker, Esq. Here is a school, founded by John Brabbin, of Newton, in Bolland, by will, dated 23d March, 1768, who endowed it with twenty guineas, for the purpose of instruct- ing all the people called Quakers, male and female, and six children of the poor inhabitants of the township of Newton, and a house and school-room, which he erected, and a garden adjoining. By a lapse of several years the salary has accumulated to forty guineas per annum. It is managed by trustees, elected, according to the tenure of his will, on the recommendation of the Quakers who assemble at their monthly meetings held at Settle. THoRNTON in LoNSDALE is a picturesque parish town, six miles from Kirby Lonsdale, containing five hundred and thirty-five inhabitants. The benefice, a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary return at £79, is in the patronage of the dean and chapter of Worcester. The church, situate on an eminence, is dedicated to St. Oswald. It has a nave, chancel, and tower, at the west end. Near this village is a tremendous cliff, called Thornton-Scar, partly clothed with wood, and partly exhibiting the bare rock. This scar is about 100 yards high, and runs up a considerable way, varying its elevation, into the mountains, along with one not quite so perpendicular, on the other side: these unite so closely at the bottom, that the frightful chasm scarcely leaves room for the hurrying brook to escape, by a precipitate flight over a succession of small cascades. At a short distance hence is Thornton-Force, a fine cascade, which rushes from an aperture in a high rock, and falls at one leap nearly thirty yards, partly from the top of a rocky ledge, over half of which it falls into one unbroken sheet of four yards wide, and then tumbles over a bulging rock into a deep black pool below. The tops and sides of the rocks are beautifully fringed with ivy and other shrubs; they are a few yards higher than the cascade; and the whole, viewed from the basin below, forms an exceedingly fine picture. Yordas-Cave, in the same parish, is a celebrated natural curiosity. The entrance CHAP. X. Slaidburn. Easington. Newton. School. Thornton. Thornton- Scar. Yordas Cave. 360 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. to this cave is through a rude arched opening, four yards by seven, like the gateway of some ancient castle; which soon opens into an apartment, so spacious and exten- sive, that, with all the blaze of candles, neither the roof nor the walls can be clearly discerned. No cave, in romance; no den of lions, giants, or serpents; nor any supposed haunts of ghosts or fairies, were ever described more dreary or terrific than is this gloomy and dismal cavern. After crossing a little brook, Sand proceed- ing thirty or forty yards further, the high roof and walls are seen distinctly, as well as the curious petrifactions hanging therefrom. On the right are several other curiously incrusted figures; a projecting one is called the Bishop's throne, from its great resemblance to that appendage of a cathedral; another confused mass of incrusted matter bears some resemblance to a large organ. After entering a narrow passage of five or six yards, where the roof is supported by seven pillars, there Black Burton. is only room for one person in breadth, but the height is very considerable. At a small distance hence, a cascade issues from an opening in the rock, and falls four or five yards into a circular apartment, roofed with a fine dome; this apartment some visitants have named the chapter-house. The whole length of this singular cavern is between fifty and sixty yards; its breadth, thirteen yards; and height, forty-seven feet. The principal part here described lies to the right; but it extends also on the other hand, and unfolds some wonderful closets, called Yordas bedchamber, Yordas oven, &c. On the upper side of Yordas-Cave, is a quarry of black marble, from which elegant monuments, chimney-pieces, slabs, and other ornaments are dug. The chapelry of Black Burton contains seven hundred and forty-six inhabitants. A market is held here on Monday. The chapel is valued, in the parliamentary return, at £15.2s. 6d. it; L. lº º - --- | | | THE COUNTY OF YORK. 361 CHAPTER XI. survey of THE LIBERTY OF RIPON AND THE WAPENTAKEs of SKYRACK AND CLARo. THE ancient parish and borough town of RIPON, is pleasantly situate on a rising CHAP. XI. ground, between the river Ure on the north, and the little river Skell on the south, Ripon. T within a short distance of their confluence.” It is six miles distant from Borough- bridge, and eleven miles from Harrowgate. In 1821 this town contained nine hundred and eighty-five houses, and four thousand five hundred and sixty-three inhabitants.f *. Ripon obviously derives its name from its situation on the “ripa,” or bank of a º river. The town is of considerable antiquity; but whether of British or Roman origin is wholly uncertain. Its proximity to the ancient Isurium, from which it is only seven miles distant, with the numerous Roman roads which traverse near it at a small distance on each side, as well as the peculiar advantages of its situation on an eminence between two rivers, might lead us to imagine, that it would not be unnoticed by the Romans. The first historical notice of this town occurs in the year 661, at which time Eata, Historical abbot of Melross, in Scotland, founded a monastery here; and the town is said then notices.} : to have consisted of no more than thirty houses. At the time of the Danish invasions the town was totally reduced to ashes, and, as William of Malmsbury says, the traces of its former existence could be discovered only by its ruins. It appears, however, to have soon recovered from its misfortunes, and in the year 886 was incorporated as a royal borough by Alfred the Great.f x * Over the Ure, and within a short distance of the town, is a handsome stone bridge of seventeen arches. There are also five other bridges within little more than a mile of the town. * The entire parish and liberty contained at the same period thirteen thousand and ninety-six inhabitants. - # At this period its government was wested in a vigillarius, or wakeman, twelve elders, and twenty-four assistants. The wakeman caused a horn to be blown every night at nine o'clock: ** WOL. III. 4 z 362 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. It had, however, scarcely recovered the shocks received in the first Danish wars, before it was again doomed to total destruction. The Northumbrian Danes had been compelled to acknowledge the paramount sovereignty of the Anglo- Saxon monarchs, but they never failed to seize every opportunity of revolt. They had been reduced to submission by Edmund, who reigned from the year 941 to 948, but the youth and inexperience of his successor Edred encouraged them once more to aim at independence. But Edred, apprized of their design, was so expeditious in assembling his forces, that he entered Northumbria before the Danes were prepared for resistance. They were therefore obliged to avert the storm by a ready submission; but Edred had no sooner retired than they rejected his authority, and again took up arms, Civil dissensions, however, soon began to divide the revolters into opposite factions, a circumstance which Edred was careful to turn to his own advantage. He marched his army, without loss of time, into the north, where all was in confusion, and, meeting with little resistance, wasted the country in a merciless manner. Ripon and its monastery were totally destroyed in the general devastation, and a large extent of country laid many years uncultivated and desolate.* Edred, having thus severely chastised the revolters, put an end to the Danish kingdom of Northumbria, and reduced it to a province of the Anglo-Saxon monarchy.ºf - * Ripon was soon afterwards rebuilt, and began to flourish, but it did not long enjoy a state of tranquillity. In the year 1069, it shared in the fatal consequences of the revolt of the Northumbrians against the Norman conqueror. After the capture of York by William, this town was reduced to a state of misery little short of that which it had experienced from the devastations of Edred; and sixteen years after- wards, at the time of the Domesday survey, it remained waste and uncultivated. Tranquillity succeeding, Ripon again revived, and remained undisturbed till the wars between England and Scotland, in the unhappy reign of Edward II., subjected it to new misfortunes. In the year 1323, the Scottish monarch, Robert Bruce, having driven Edward and his army out of Scotland, and pursued, them into England, destroyed the country with fire and sword to the very walls of York, and, among other devastations, burned the town and monastery of Ripon.; But the victorious reign of Edward III. delivered this part of the kingdom from the inroads of the Scots; and the town of Ripon was, by the liberal donations of which, if any house, or shop, was robbed before sun-rise next morning, the sufferer received a compen- sation for his loss from an annual tax of four-pence levied on every inhabitant whose dwelling had but one, and of eight-pence, where it had two outer doors, from which latter circumstance a double degree of danger might be apprehended. The tax, with its beneficial effects, is long since fallen into disuse; but the custom of blowing the horn continues to this day.”—Farrer’s Ripon, p. 11. - - * Malmsbury, p. 155. + Rapin, with Tindal’s Notes, vol. i. p. 104. f Ibid. vol. i. p. 397. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 363 the archbishop of York, and the neighbouring gentry, restored to a flourishing con- dition. Since that time it has been honoured by several royal visits. Henry IV., being in the year 1405 obliged to leave London by reason of the plague, which then raged in the metropolis, retired to Ripon, and continued there some time, with his whole court. In the year 1604, the same cause occasioned the removal of the court of the lord president from York to this town.” In the year 1617, James I. rested a night at Ripon, in his journey to Scotland; and, after being addressed in an appropriate speech by the recorder, was presented by the mayor, in the name of the corporation, with a gilt bowl, and a pair of Ripon spurs, of the value of five pounds. King Charles I. also twice visited Ripon, viz. in the years 1633 and 1644, and was received each time with that respect and loyalty by which this town has ever been distinguished. It has likewise obtained some historical celebrity from being the place appointed for the negotiations in 1640 between the English and Scotch commissioners.f. The conferences began at Ripon on the 1st of October, and being transferred to London, and the Scots obtaining all their demands, the business was for that time amicably concluded. Ripon being an open town, without any castle or fortifications, and therefore untenable as a military post, had but little concern in the transactions of the civil CHAP, Xſ. war which afterwards devastated the kingdom. In the year 1643 it was taken possession of by the parliament forces, under the command of Sir Thomas Maule- verer; but Sir John Mallory, of Studley, arriving with a body of the king's horse from Skipton castle, and being readily assisted by the inhabitants, surprised the parliamentarian's main guard, which was stationed in the market-place, completely routed the whole of his troops, took several prisoners, and drove the rest out of the town. . The last important event in its history is the obtaining of an act of parliament, in 1767, for making the river Ure navigable from its junction with the Swale, a project which has since been completely carried into effect, and has greatly contributed to the prosperity of the town. The plentiful supply of excellent water from a small stream that runs through a street called Skellgate, is also a modern improvement extremely beneficial to the inhabitants. By means of an engine, erected at the expense of W. Askwith, Esq. the water is conveyed into every house for a small annual rent. Before the erection of these works, water was carried from house to house in leathern vessels on horses, f " * At this time the civil constitution of the town was changed, and, by the exertions of Mr. Hugh Ripley, (afterwards the first mayor), a eharter was obtained from King James I., incorporating it under the government of a mayor, recorder, and twelve aldermen, assisted by twenty-four common-councilmen, and a town clerk, with the subordinate offices of two serjeants at mace. + See Clarend. vol. i. p. 122. # Farrer's History of Ripon, p. 41. 364 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Spurs. Borough. Monas- tery. This town was once celebrated for its manufacture of spurs, which were of such repute, that “As true steel as Ripon rowels,” became a proverbial expression, when speaking of a man of fidelity, honesty, or intrepidity. The woollen manu- facture is also said to have formerly flourished here to a considerable extent, and some attempts at its revival have, within these late years, been made, but without success.” - : Ripon may be ranked among the most ancient boroughs of England, as it sent members to parliament in the twenty-third year of Edward I. The privilege was soon after discontinued, but was restored in the time of Edward VI. This borough is the property of Miss Lawrence, of Studley Royal, who possesses the burgage tenures, in which the right of election is vested: the number of voters is about one hundred and forty-six, and the mayor is the returning officer. The archbishop of York has his court and prison here for the liberty of Ripon. On the nomination of the archbishop, and by his majesty's commission, justices are appointed, who, in conjunction with the mayor and recorder, hold sessions here for the town and liberty. The dean and chapter have also a prison, and hold a court for the decision of causes arising within their manor. After the controversy concerning the time of keeping Easter was decided at the synod of Whitby in favour of the Romish computation, the monks of Ripon, refusing to submit to the decision, were obliged to leave their monastery, which was given by Alfred, king of Northumbria, to Wilfrid, archbishop of York. In those early times monasteries were only mean edifices; and such, in all probability, Wilfrid found that of Ripon. But his knowledge of architecture, and the taste he had acquired in his travels in Italy, did not suffer it to remain long in such a condition. He erected a stately structure, which, according to William of Malmsbury, was “ celebrated for its curious arches, its fine pavements, and winding entries;” and thus he may be considered as one of those who first introduced into England a better style of architecture. His monastery, which ranked among the first in magnificence, became the resort of the northern nobility, by whom it was endowed with extensive possessions. & In 678 Archbishop Wilfrid entertained at this monastery Egfrid, king of North- umbria, with his whole court. And under the fostering influence of the same prelate, Ripon, which before was an inconsiderable village, began to acquire consideration and opulence. It was also erected into an episcopal see, subject to the primacy of York; and the church afterwards received many marks of royal munificence. Wilfrid, after a life checkered with numerous vicissitudes, died in 711, in the seventy-sixth year of his age, and was, by his own desire, buried on the * Beaut. of England and Wales—Yorkshire. - - º THE COUNTY OF YORK. 365 south side of the altar in his favourite monastery of Ripon.* This monastery of St. Wilfrid received extraordinary marks of royal munificence. The great king Athelstan granted it various immunities, and particularly the privilege of sanctuary, with this addition, that whoever infringed on its rights, which extended a mile on each side round the church, and were marked by boundaries, should forfeit life and estate. This he granted and confirmed in the most express terms, by two charters, one in Latin, the other in old English verse. s The church and manor of Ripon, from the time of Wilfrid, at least from that of the Saxon Athelstan, had belonged to the see of York. Thus in Domesday, “Hoc manerium tenuit Aldred Arch. nunc Thomas Arch.” And Thomas, the chaplain of the Norman king, and archbishop of York, and who exerted himself in restoring his see, died at Ripon. It cannot be supposed that the church or the demesnes would be then suffered to lie waste. Henry I. also granted a charter for a fair to the town. This implies some degree of population; and brings us also to the era of the present edifice. - In the reign of his successor, King Stephen, A.D. 1140, the present structure of the church of Ripon, however since altered, enlarged and improved, was raised by the munificent piety of Thurstan, archbishop of York, and the first patron of Fountain's Abbey. The whole of the west front, including its towers, the middle tower, and the transept, with a part of the choir and aisles, remain of his work. These remains are amply sufficient to furnish a clear idea of the plan and con- struction of this first very singular Anglo-Norman church. The time of the erection of it was precisely the era when the narrow sharp-pointed Gothic arch first began to take place of the circular Saxon one; and they are both seen here in a perfection scarcely perhaps attained elsewhere in the kingdom. - The general plan consisted of a west front, with narrow pointed windows, supported by two handsome towers, and which opened into a broad nave without side-aisles, leading to the four circular arches which supported the middle tower, and terminating in a choir, not perhaps of greater extent than the sides of the transept. How much soever the church has gained in size and ornament by the subsequent alterations, a transient regret cannot but arise in the mind, that so complete a specimen of the architecture of that age has not remained to posterity. The west front is uniform and stately. Its breadth is forty-three feet; and, * The bones of this venerable prelate were, in the year 940, removed to Canterbury, by Odo, arch- bishop of that see. His epitaph is preserved by Bede, and the fame of his piety gained him a place in the calendar. The town of Ripon to this day honours the memory of its benefactor by an annual feast, which continues nearly a week. On the Saturday next after Lammas-day, the effigy of the prelate is brought into the town, preceded by music : the people go out to meet it, and, with every demonstration of joy, commemorate the return of their former patron. The following day is dedicated to him, being here called St. Wilfrid's Sunday. - WOL. III, 5 A CHAP. XI. Ripon minster. 366 HISTORY OF book VI. including the towers of twenty-nine feet and a half each, is in the whole one hundred and two feet, external measure. It rises, in the point in which the front terminates, to a height of more than one hundred feet, and in the towers of one hundred and ten; whilst they were evidently surmounted by wooden spires, covered with lead, since removed, of at least an equal elevation.* The three doors of this front, in, a deep recess, and flanked with many small pillars, open into the nave. Above them are two rows of five windows, of a good height and proportion; and all the windows and ornaments attached to the towers are in a correspondent style of building. The towers themselves stand in a continued line with the front, and compose a part of it; but have had three outward sides, and only communicated with the church in their interior side, and in a line which made a part of the walls, now occupied by pillars, of the ancient nave. The west towers of the old cathedral of Ely, of which a plan is given by Mr. Bentham, had an opening to the church in a similar manner. - - In the inside of the nave it is plain that this front composes what is usually called the great west window, filling a space of fifty-seven feet by forty-one; and the size and number of these collected lancet-shaped windows are so ample, that the effect of light gained to the church is very considerable. There is also a degree of elegance in the construction of the architecture; which appearance is gained by the row of long slender columns that surround each of these lancet-shaped windows in the inside, in a similar manner with those of the external front, and which, accompany- ing them in their whole length, compose the inner west front towards the nave. It has been observed by writers on ancient architecture, that on the introduction of the sharp-pointed arch, an immediate change took place from the ponderous Saxon columns to the most minute small ones; sometimes in clusters, occasionally as separate and distinct, frequently, as here, in two slightly attached columns, with which also the door-cases, having arches of singular flatness, are supported. The whole effect is very favourable to the lightness of the building. - The walls of the first nave are gone; but its height may be known by compar- ing the stone angular ledge for supporting the roof, yet remaining, with a portion of lead in it, on the side of the middle tower, with that of the point or apex of the west front. The measurement of these angles determines the shape or fall of the roof, and consequently the height of the walls. The ridge of this roof much exceeded the height of the present one, and must have been nearly one hundred feet, if not more, from the pavement. The walls probably not less than eighty feet; and this \ * These spires were evidently coeval with the towers on which they were raised. The foundation of the church was laid A.D. 1140. The earliest spire usually instanced is that of St. Paul’s, London, finished A. D. 1221, of wood and lead, similar to those of Ripon. See Dallanay's Archit. p. 125, and pp. 36, 37. The towers at Ripon are obviously built to support a spire. | THE COUNTY OF YORK. 367 corresponds with the square of the west front under the pediment between the west towers.” The windows in this side of the nave were, it may be presumed, either narrow with a circular top, as those of Fountain's and other abbeys of that age, or, more probably, lancet-shaped, to correspond with those in the adjoining towers. Examples of each kind now exist in the transept of this church. The east end of the nave or body of the church is bounded by the middle tower, of the same height, but larger in width than those of the west end, and then supporting a leaden spire of the height of one hundred and twenty feet. - The tower was raised on four circular or Saxon arches, of such amplitude, lightness and beauty, as fully to vindicate the Anglo-Norman artists from the in- ability to execute works of just and elegant proportion. Two of these now remain. And the antiquary, accustomed to contemplate the massive pillars and heavy arcades of the Saxon or Norman churches, views with wonder and delight a lofty arch of great expansion and delicate workmanship, that seems to unite the classic beauties of the Grecian architecture with the airy lightness of the Gothic. These arches are twenty-two feet broad in the span, thirty-three feet high to the crown of the arch, on a column of twenty-six feet; and are formed with a slight moulding of not more than five feet in thickness. The two, north and south, ends of the transept are in the usual style of the age, with narrow windows, plain, and no ways remarkable. The extent of the old choir is sufficiently ascertained. All the choirs of the Norman churches, as justly observed by Mr. Milner in his History of Ely, were remarkably short. And this is a strong instance of it, it being about the length of forty-three feet. The walls and windows of its narrow side-aisles correspond with those of the transept. The side-arches of this ancient choir have been altered to a Gothic shape; but the upper windows above them on the north side, yet remain. The original form of these arches may be supposed to have been circular ; and, if in a style correspondent to the large one adjoining to them under the middle tower, must have exhibited a very handsome appearance. The east end of this first choir can only be conjectured; yet most probably it had much consonancy with the opposite windows of the west end of the church. And a very reasonable idea may therefore be obtained of it, by supposing it to resemble the elegant end of the choir of the abbey of Rievaulx, in this county; with two rows of three large lancet-shaped windows, and probably a smaller one, like that of the west front of Ripon, in the angular top of the building. . . . . . - - Such was the edifice built by Archbishop Thurstan in the middle of the twelfth century. The alterations that have since taken place have converted the internal appearance into that of a Gothic structure of just and noble proportions; whilst * The roof of the nave was rebuilt in the autumn of 1830, under the direction of Mr. Blore, the architect. wº - * * CHAP. XI. 368 - HISTORY OF }300K VI. select parts of the first church are yet retained, sufficient to render it one of the best specimens of the Anglo-Norman style to an antiquary. These alterations were made way for by a destructive conflagration on an invasion of the Scots, A.D. 1317, in the reign of Edward II., when the church was, as it were, totally consumed. But there existed another general cause, which was constantly producing effects beneficial to the church of Ripon. The archbishops of York had a palace at Ripon, and appear to have paid great attention to the fabric of this church, as acci- dental injury, or varying taste, demanded any change or renovation. Hence wealth would not be wanting; and the architects, who raised or improved their magnificent cathedral, were at hand to furnish similar plans of improvement at Ripon. Fortunately for this fabric, Archbishop Melton held the see of York when the town and church of Ripon were destroyed by the Scots. And on the accession of Edward III., as soon probably as a more stable government gave any prospect of security to the northern parts of the kingdom, he promoted the rebuilding of the town, and caused the church to be re-edified, as it is expressed, from the foun- dations. It is apparent that the whole west front remained, and that the side-walls of the old nave were removed, and supplied by the present range of pillars, to which the new side-aisles were added, their whole breadth being regulated by that of the west towers now included in them. - Archbishop Melton was then employed in completing the west end of the church at York, on the plan of his predecessor, John de Romaine; and the handsome breadth of the aisles, the style of the Gothic arches of the nave, with the lofty range of windows which surmount them at Ripon, exhibit great similarity to the . corresponding parts in that cathedral. Two sides of the great tower, inside and outside, east and south, have been altered from the Saxon to the Gothic architecture without taking down the superstructure. - In the choir, a date of A.D. 1331, the same year in which this archbishop gave regulations to the canons of the church, makes it evident that he had a principal share in improving and enlarging it. He extended it eastward to twice its former length, so that it is now of the extent of ninety-nine feet. He also probably altered the arches of the old choir, and added the new ones. The other alterations in the choir it is difficult to assign to any particular era. There is a date on the highly wrought wood work so low as A.D. 1494. The notices to be obtained from the style of the architecture are very dubious. It is obvious, from a negligent junction of the old and new work at the third side-arch, and from a step across the choir, now levelled by the late new pavement, that it has been considerably lengthened. Probably the church, as it now stands, particularly in the inside, was finished about the year 1494. º At the present day, the east end is adorned by a window of ample size and THE COUNTY OF York. - 369 great beauty. In its pristine state and full extent, (for it is in part obscured by an altar-screen,) its dimensions are fifty-one feet by twenty-five. It is of late and ornamental construction, very similar in design to those of the elegant chapter- house at York; probably subsequent to the renovation of the church in the time of Edward III., but yet of the same design or pattern as the side-windows adjoining to it. For there yet remain in the window two shields in painted glass, with the arms of England and of France, in which those of France are given with fleurs de lys semé, and not restricted to three fleurs, as took place in the time of Henry V. This fixes the date of the window to the fourteenth century, or between the first year of Edward III., A.D. 1326, and the time of Henry V., A.D. 1413. The gratitude of the dean and chapter towards their founder, King James I., had placed his arms in the centre of this window, which, having fortunately escaped the general demolition of painted glass in the civil wars, has been rendered, by the care of the present dean, assisted by the donations of the chapter and neigh- bouring gentry, a very full and handsome window of armorial bearings. The splendid colours of the glass add a richness to the appearance of the choir. The rich ornaments of the stone screen at the entrance of the choir, and the carved wood work which ornaments the stalls of the interior part of it, seem also to claim particular notice, as the last is allowed to exhibit a delicacy and lightness superior even to that of York, or of almost any other religious edifice possessing similar decorations.” An archiepiscopal throne, at the end of these stalls, of similar workmanship, and executed by Mr. Archer, of Oxford, has been erected by the munificence of the late archbishop of York, Dr. Markham. Another advantageous distinction of the church of Ripon is, the excellent proportion of the body of the fabric; the breadth of the nave and side-aisles being eighty-seven feet, which exceeds that of every Gothic church, collegiate and cathedral, in the kingdom, except those of York, Westminster, and St. Alban's. As the length of the nave is not considerable, being about one hundred and thirty- four feet, and the height very ample, of about eighty feet, the whole presents an edifice more nearly approaching the just rules of architecture than perhaps any other structure of its kind in the middle ages. The exterior of the church is in itself lofty and well-proportioned; but the towers, like all those which have been formed to support leaden spires of great altitude, are flat and heavy, and give, in part, that appearance to the whole building. This apparent heaviness has, within these few years, been relieved by the addition of open battlements and pinnacles on the west towers, with so good an effect as may excuse the breach of strict regu- larity: these towers are without buttresses, but are strengthened with a slight projection at their angles, which sustains the pinnacles with sufficient propriety. * Above this screen is a gallery and fine organ, built by Smith in 1696. WOLs III, - 5 B CHAP. XI. 370 HISTORY OF Book VI. The Great or Wilfrid's Tower, as it is called, having been left in a very unfinished state, has also lately been completed with battlements and pinnacles. By the con- stant care and attention of the dean and chapter to all necessary repairs, the whole of the floor of the church has been handsomely relaid with a new pavement. Under the pavement of the middle tower, it may be mentioned, is a kind of chapel, or penitentiary, of ten feet and a half by seven, and nine feet high, used apparently as a confessional, with an entrance for the priest from the choir, and from the body of the church for the penitent. The last alteration in the church seems to have been the addition of a chapel to the Virgin, yet termed the Lady Loft, built upon the roof of the old chapel before mentioned, and which, from its style of building, seems to have been about the end of the reign of Henry VII. It now forms part of the library.* * . The sepulchral monuments in the church are very numerous. There are many belonging to the principal families in the neighbourhood, especially to those of Blacket, Kitchenman, Ridsdale, Wanley, Oxley, Norton of Sawley, Weddel of Newby, Mallorie and Aislabie of Studley, Markenfield, formerly of Markenfield, &c. Among these may be noticed a beautiful monument to the memory of W. Weddel, Esq. of Newby, the design of which is taken from that curious relic of antiquity, the lantern of Demosthenes at Athens. Within the chapter-house is a handsome monument, after a design of Bacon, erected to the memory of Anne Hope Darley Waddilove, consort of the Rev. Dr. Waddilove, the late dean, a lady who possessed every virtue that could adorn the true Christian, and contribute to the happiness of society. This monument also commemorates two of their children, one of whom, a son, here lies entombed, the other, a daughter, is interred at Topcliffe. - . . . . . In the south aisle of the nave, near the wall, is an altar tomb of grey marble, on which are sculptured the figures of a man and a lion, in a grove of trees. No inscription remains; but tradition tells us that this tomb covers the body of a prince, son of an Irish king, who died at Ripon on his return from Palestine. Jurisdic. "The collegiate church of Ripon is a peculiar jurisdiction, including Mashom, tion. under the archbishop of York. The king is patron of the deanery : the archbishop ôf"York is patron of the two hospitals of St. Mary Magdalen, and St. John the Baptist, the mastership of which has of late years been held with the deanery. The dean, upon a vacancy, elects the subdean from among the six prebendaries, When a vacancy occurs among the prebendaries, the dean and chapter nominate three persons to the archbishop of York, who collates one of them. There are also two vicars-choral, an organist, five singing men, six choristers, or singing boys, and a verger. ſ « . . . . . . . . * Dr. Waddilove's account of Ripon Minstrf, in the Archaeologia, vol. xx. -- -- º THE COUNTY of York. 371 On the west side of the town is a new church, erected by the Rev. E. Kilvington, at an expense of about £9,000. The first stone was laid July 28, 1826, and it was opened in 1828. It comprises a nave of fifty-four feet by thirty-eight, a transept of seventy-four feet by thirty-eight, and a chancel eighteen feet by twenty-six, with a tower twenty-six feet square and seventy-one feet high, upon which is a spire of sixty-five feet. The church is dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and is built in the lancet style of architecture: it will contain about one thousand persons. Here are two Methodist chapels, one on Cowsgate hill, built in 1777, the other in Low Skellgate, which was built in 1796; a chapel for Independents, erected in All Hallowgate, in 1818, and a chapel for Primitive Methodists, erected in 1821. Here is an hospital, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, founded by Thurstan, archbishop of York, who died in 1144;* another to St. John the Baptist, founded in the ninth year of King John, by one of the archbishops of York; + (it is now converted into a national school ;) a third to St. Anne, founded by one of the Nevilles, in the reign of Edward IV. ; and a fourth, called Jepson's hospital, founded and endowed by Zacharias Jepson, of York, a native of Ripon. In the minster-yard is this modest inscription, to the memory of its benefactor—“Hic jacet Zacharius Jepson, cujus aetas fuit 49. Per paucos tantum Annos via it.” The market-placeſ is very spacious, and nearly square, measuring one hundred and four yards by ninety-eight, and has a fine obelisk in the centre, ninety feet high, on the top of which are fixed the arms of Ripon, that is, a bugle-horn and a spur- rowel, erected by William Aislabie, Esq., 1781. - A very elegant town-hall was erected in 1801, at the expense of Mrs. Allanson, of Studley. It comprises assembly rooms, a committee room for public meetings, and business of magistrates. , - . . * It was for religious visitors; and its revenues were valued at the dissolution at £24,0s. 7d. It is now inhabited by six poor widows. ' 2. + Valued at the dissolution at £12. 0s. 4d. º: f Henry I. granted a charter for a fair of four days; another was granted by King Stephen; and a third by Henry V. . At one of these fairs we find Drunken Barnaby — - - * Ad forensem Ripontendo, . . . . . Then to Ripon I appear there, . Equi si sint cari, vendo, . . . . To sell horses if they’re dear there; Si minore pretio dempti, If they’re cheap, I use to buy them, Equi a me erunt empti ; ' ' And in the country profit by them; Ut alacrior fiat ille, Where to quicken’em I'll tell ye, Ilia mordicant anguilla.' ' ' '. I put quick eels in their belly. Ripon has a good market on Thursday, and five annual fairs, viz. the Thursday after January 13th for horned cattle, leather, and cloth; the 13th and 14th of May, for horned cattle, horses, sheep, cloth, &c.; the first Thursday and Friday in June, for horned cattle, sheep, cloth, &c.; first Thursday after August 22, for horned cattle, &c.; and November 28, for horned cattle, cloth, &c. This last is the general hiring-day for servants. - - CHAP. XI. Trinity church. Chapels. Hospitals. Market. Town hall. 372 - HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Grammar- school. Theatre. Aismun- derby with Bondgate. Bishop Monkton. Bishop- side, High and Low. Pateley- bridge. New church. Bishop Thornton. Dolebank, Bishopton. Clother- holme. Eaveston. Givendale. A handsome court-house and prison were erected here at the expense of the county, in 1830. - Here is a free grammar-school, situate in Agnesgate, founded in 1546, by Edward W., with an allowance for the head master and usher; and finished in 1555, by King Philip and Queen Mary. Its revenues are under the management of trustees. The theatre, situated in Westgate, was first opened in 1792. - Not far from the minster is a large tumulus composed of gravel and human bones, called Elshaw or Ailcey hill, which in Camden's time appears to have been called Hillshaw. “There apperith by est north est, at the toune end of Ripon,” says Leland, “a great hill of yerth, cast up in a playn close bering now the name of Illshow Hille, where be al likelihood hath been sum great fortress in the Britains tyme.” - In this parish are several extensive townships. - Aismunderby with Bondgate contains five hundred and fifty-one inhabitants; and the chapelry of Bishop Monkton contains four hundred and seventy-nine inhabitants. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, valued in the Liber regis at £65. It is in the patronage of the dean and chapter of Ripon. The chapel, rebuilt in 1822, is a neat but small edifice. Monkton hall is the seat of Thomas Charnock, Esq. Bishopside, High and Low, is an extensive township, containing two thousand and seventy-two inhabitants: in it is Pateleybridge, a small market town, situate upon the banks of the river Nidd. It derives considerable wealth from the lead mines on the opposite side of the river, at Greenhow hill, &c. A little above the town there is a lead mill, where the manufacture of sheet lead and lead pipes is carried on to a great extent. The market was granted to the archbishop of York, in the eighteenth year of Edward II., when the king was at York. A new church was erected here by the commissioners for building new churches in 1827. The first stone was laid October 20, 1825; it will hold eight hundred and three persons. The chapelry of Bishop Thornton contains six hundred and forty-seven inhabi. tants. The chapel is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary returns at £65. It is in the patronage of the dean and chapter of Ripon. At Dolebank Sir Thomas Gascoigne, Bart., built a nunnery, which he endowed with £90 per annum, out of an estate at Maunston. It is now only a farm house, in which some part of the old building is to be found, and is the property of Mr. Green- wood, merchant. The township of Bishopton has one hundred and thirty-six persons. Clotherholme consists of two farm houses, with sixteen inhabitants. Eaveston has seventy-three, and Givendale contains thirty-one persons. - | | | º ºf º : * º © º, i. - 2. O º * - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 373 The township of Grantley with Skeldin contains two hundred and thirty- three inhabitants. Here is Grantley hall, the elegant seat of Lord Grantley. The hall stands in a low warm situation, and well sheltered with wood, on the road side leading to Pateley-bridge, but contains nothing particular to interest the tourist. Hewick Copt (population one hundred and thirty-one), Ingerthorpe (popu- lation forty-four), and Markington with Wallerthwaite, contains four hundred and fifty-seven persons. At the latter place is a school founded by Mary Reynard, in 1795, who directed that the master should read a sermon, liturgy, &c. to the inhabitants of the village every Sunday afternoon. She endowed it with £50 by subscriptions and other means. The master's salary amounts to £6 or £7. Miss Lawrence, of Studley hall, gives £4 per annum, for educating twelve children. The master receives six free-scholars from Markington and Ingerthorpe. Here was once the seat of a family of the name of Markenfield, of whom, Sir Ninian was present at the battle of Flodden Field, in the year 1513. Sir Thomas Markenfield joining in the rebellion against Queen Elizabeth, in the year 1569, his estate was forfeited : and he, with many others, was obliged to take-refuge in a foreign country. The estate was granted to Chancellor Egerton, and remained in that family till it was purchased of the duke of Bridgewater, by the first Lord Grantley. It was moated round, and three-fourths of the moat is still filled with water; it is now occupied as a farm-house. In the same township are the remains of Fountain's abbey, delightfully situate in a deep vale, through which flows the brook called the Skell ; and the high hills on either side, clothed with lofty trees, and varied with scars, slope gently to the brook. - In 1132, certain benedictine monks at St. Mary's, in York, displeased with relaxation of discipline in their convent, and disgusted with the luxury of their life, resolved to migrate where monastic manners were practised with more severity, and determined to embrace the rules of Cistercian monks at Rivaulx, and applied for that purpose to Thurstan, archbishop of York, whom they requested to favour their designs. The prelate, with many of the clergy, went to St. Mary's, where they found the abbot and his attendants preparing to oppose his resolutions, and threatened to punish the discontented monks. He was refused admittance into the chapter-house, when a riot ensued, and the prelate having interdicted the abbot and monks, left the monastery, taking under his protection the prior, sub-prior, and eleven monks, who withdrew from the convent, and were entertained by the arch- bishop for eleven weeks. During this time the abbot made frequent complaints to the king, bishops, and abbots, against the archbishop for depriving him of part of his flock. At Christmas, Thurstan gave them a place, then called Skeldale, for WOL. III. 5 C CHAP. XI. Grantley with Skel- din. Hewick Copt. Inger- thorpe. Marling- ton with Waller- thwaite. Fountain’s Abbey. 374 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. their residence, the receptacle for wild beasts, and overgrown with wood and brambles; he also gave them the village of Sutton. During part of the winter, a large elm tree was their only shelter; they afterwards retired under the melancholy shade of seven yew trees, growing near where the abbey now stands. One of them was blown down in 1757, the other six are now standing. They are of great magnitude, the largest being twenty feet in circumference within three feet from the ground. Under these, it appears, they resided till the monastery was built. The fame of their sanctity induced many to resort to them, which proportionably increased their distress, and rendered their poverty still more severe; for in vain did the abbot solicit relief, as famine, that year, had extended all over the country, and the leaves of trees and herbs, except a small supply from the archbishop, were their only food. Soon after Eustace Fitz-John, lord of Knaresbrough, supplied them with a cartload of bread. For more than two years they laboured under every hardship poverty could inflict, till Hugh, dean of York, who was very rich, labouring under a disease likely to prove fatal, resolved to end his days among them. For this purpose he removed to the abbey, and devoted his riches to charity, the building of the monastery, and uses of the house. In 1140, the building had considerably increased, when, in the war between Stephen and his competitor, a party of soldiers, at the instance of William, arch- bishop of York, came here and burnt the monastery. ‘s - In 1204, John de Eborac, abbot, laid the foundation of the church. His suc- cessor, John de Pherd, carried on the work with spirit, and John of Kent, the next abbot, is supposed to have completed the building. But the great tower, it should seem, from the style of the architecture, was either built or heightened subsequent to the death of John of Kent, in 1245. Profusion of wealth, many grants and privileges now poured in upon them; but extravagance, the too general attendant on wealth, proved, not long after, the cause of much concern and affliction to the monks, for in 1294, they became in want of necessaries, which Romain, then archbishop of York, attributed to their flagrant dissolute conduct. In times long subsequent, this abbey became more opulent, and consequently more powerful than any in this county, for, at the dissolution, its revenues were estimated, according to Dugdale, at £998. 0s. 8%d. At that time their plate was valued at £708. 5s. 9d. ; they also had in possession two thousand three hundred and fifty-six horned cattle, one thousand three hundred and twenty-six sheep, eighty-six horses, seventy-nine swine, one hundred and seventeen quarters of wheat, twelve of rye, one hundred and thirty-four of oats, three hundred and ninety-two loads of hay. In their granary were eighteen quarters of wheat, eighteen of rye, ninety of barley and malt, and two of oats.” Dissolu- tion. * Burton’s Monast. - º - - - |} - | º - || || || || || | * º * * º 5. - § Uſ. E. % º tº " º - e - º - º - * * : * : * . * : º - º - º | |º - / Sº */ce. - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 375 The architecture is mixed : in some parts are seen the sharp pointed windows, in others the circular arches. The great east window is magnificently grand, and the arch much pointed. There has, it is supposed, been a central tower, long since fallen into decay. At the top of the north corner window of the sanctum sanctorum is the figure of an angel holding a scroll, on which is the date 1483.” - These monastic remains are deservedly considered the most magnificent and interesting that our country, rich in these venerable and admired works of antiquity, retains from the wreck of the general dissolution. So great was the extent of this magnificent institution, that when entire, it is said to have occupied nearly twelve acres of ground; and such the ravages it sustained, that the buildings now cover little more than a sixth part of that space; yet, with every devastation, it is far more extensive, and incomparably more perfect than any other. Besides the church, whose beauty and grandeur need no comment, and which are aided by the lofty, and nearly perfect tower, standing at the end of the north transept, the numerous buildings connected with it appear in a state of preservation unequalled by any other. - - The chapter-house, eighty-four feet by forty-two, is a rectangular room, once supported by two rows of pillars. In the year 1790 and 1791, this room was cleared of the rubbish with which it was covered, when a painted pavement was discovered, broken and disfigured in many places; here, also, were found thirteen of the abbots' grave-stones, most of which were broken and defaced, having had the brass plates and other ornaments with which they were inlaid, torn away, so that the two following inscriptions only remain legible: T - #itàequiescit Dominugºſopamnes, #. Ibbag be fantibus, auienſit ºff. bicºpecembrig: and— . * - #ic fiequiescit Öommuş:05ammes, #33. Abbas be fantibus. Over the chapter-house was the library and scriptorium, where the monks used to write. * - - The refectory, or dining-room, is one hundred and eight feet by forty-five ; on one side thereof is the reading-gallery. • - - The cloisters are a vast extent of straight vault, three hundred feet long, and forty-two broad; divided lengthways by nineteen pillars and twenty arches; each pillar divides into eight ribs at the top, which diverge and intersect each other on the roof. Here is a large stone basin, the remains of a fountain. The dormitory, or sleeping-room, is of the same dimensions as the cloisters. -This place contained forty cells. * The length of the church from east to west is three hundred and fifty-one feet; the transept is one hundred and eighty-six feet wide. - - CHAP. XI. Survey of the edifice. Chapter- house. Cloisters. 376 HISTORY OF Book VI. The cloister-garden is one hundred and twenty-six feet square, enclosed with a high wall, and planted with evergreens. This garden, probably, retains more of its original form than any other part of these ruins. - * - Over a window, on the west side of the steeple, is the figure of a thrush standing on a tun. This is a rebus, allusive to the name of the founder, Thurstan, arch- bishop of York. - -- . . " - No part is now pulled down to give space, and none rebuilt to obtain uniformity; and Miss Lawrence, the present worthy owner, is solicitous only to preserve it from wanton injury. As it was left to her, so it stands every storm and tempest; and this amiable lady's admiration of antiquity is evinced in the improvements which have recently taken place. - - On the dissolution of religious houses, Sir Richard Gresham purchased Fountains Abbey of the king, with the part of the lands belonging to it, the site of Swine Abbey and the monastery of Nunkeeling, with their bells, for £1,163. Sir Richard sold Fountains, with some of the lands, to Sir Stephen Proctor, who built Fountains hall out of its ruins. In 1627 it was in the possession of Richard Ewens, Esq. of South Cowton, whose daughter and sole heiress married John Messenger, Esq. of Newsham. It remained in the Messenger family till the year 1767, when John Michael Messenger, Esq. sold it to William Aislabie, Esq. of Studley, for £18,000. Micklehow hill is a lofty eminence, partly covered with wood, which formerly belonged to the monastery of Fountains. Upon the summit of this hill was a chapel, called St. Michael's de Monte, erected by the abbot and convent of Fountains, probably about the year 1200, and dedicated to St. Michael. The chapel, after the dissolution of the monastery, was taken down, and a Gothic tower erected on the site, from which is a fine prospect of the surrounding country. Fountains hall, near the abbey, is a large edifice, of the Elizabethan style of architecture. “ . . . . . . . . . . . . . $ , The township of Marston with Moseby contains one hundred and sixty-four persons. Newby with Mulwith has fifty-two inhabitants. Newby hall, the seat of the Right Hon. Lord Grantham,” is situate on the north bank of the river Ure; and is usually said, but on what authority we cannot learn, Micklehow hill. ſº Fountains hall. Marston with Moseby: Newby with Mul- with. * Thomas Philip Weddell Robinson, the present Right Hon. Lord Grantham, is the third lord, having succeeded his father, Thomas, the late lord, in July, 1786. He married, in 1805, Henrietta Frances Cole, youngest daughter of William Willoughby, first earl of Enniskillen, and has issue, Frederick William William, born April, 1810, heir apparent, and several daughters. In the time of Edward I. Alexander de Nubie held this territory, who was succeeded therein by Roger, his son and heir. In the reign of Charles II. Sir John Crosland, Knight, was seated here; he died in 1670, and was buried at Ripon, at the south end of the transept, where a brass plate commemorates his memory. He was succeeded by Sir Walter Blacket, Bart. The Blackets sold it to the Weddell family, from whom it devolved to the present noble proprietor. Wºw º º: §§ - º 2. - H ， ſoggſ （ºu en bg： ſaeuºſuſ HI, | - · ſi aeq pousſignae uopuoT ſae：|- |- º - º / º J C. º º º º º 5 º º H THE COUNTY OF YORK. 377 to have been built after a design of Sir Christopher Wren, in 1705. The late Mr. Weddell built the wings, one of which contains the statue gallery. The dining room was built by his present lordship. The two dogs, in Portland stone, on either side of the portico, were copied from Alcibiades' dog at Duncombe park. The house contains several good rooms, a valuable library, and many excellent paintings: but is most admired for its statuary, the gallery of which contains the best private collection of ancient sculpture in the kingdom, collected by the late Mr. Weddell. The statue most esteemed is that of Venus, five feet one inch and a half high, pur- chased at Rome, and formerly well known by the name of the Barberini Venus, as it was originally in the possession of that family. The garden and pleasure grounds are laid out with much taste ; and in the former are excellent hot-houses. The chapelry of Sawley contains a population of four hundred and ninety The church is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary returns at Sawley hall is the neat seat of persons. £71. Patron the dean and chapter of Ripon. Mrs. Norton. Sharrow contains one hundred and three persons; the hall is the seat of Mrs. Cayley. Skelton is a small chapelry, with a population of three hundred and fourteen persons. The church is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary returns at £78. 8s. 2d. Patron, the dean and chapter of Ripon. North Stainley with Sleningford contains three hundred and eighty-five inha- bitants. Sleningford hall is the seat of Col. Dalton. - Nunwick with Howgrove has twenty-eight, and Sutton Grange eighty-six inha- bitants. - Warshill (population eighty-six), Westwick (population twenty-seven), and Whitcliffe with Thorpe (population one hundred and fifty-seven), contain nothing worthy of notice. - - - -- Studley Royal,” the elegant and beautiful seat of Miss Lawrence, f is extra- parochial; it contains a population of nineteen persons. The celebrated park and pleasure grounds here have long been admired as the first in the north of England, and which are visited by many hundreds every * All the following townships in this parish are situate in Lower Claro wapentake. + The first of the name of Aislabie who possessed this enchanting place was George Aislabie, Esq." principal registrar in the ecclesiastical court at York, who died in 1674. He married Mary, the eldest daughter of Sir John Mallorie; Sir John's son dying under age, he became master of his fortune. His son John was mayor of Ripon in 1702, and chancellor of the exchequer in 1718; he died in 1742, and his son William in 1781. Having no male issue, the estate descended to his two daughters ; the eldest was widow of Charles Allanson, Esq. , on her death in 1808, it descended to the wife of William Lawrence, Esq. whose daughter is the present possessor. WOL. III, 5 D CHAP. XI. Sawley. Sharrow. Skelton. North Stainley with Sle- ningford. Nunwick with How grove, Sut- tonGrange. Warshill. Westwick, Whitcliffe with Thorpe. Studley Royal. 378 HISTORY OF . 4. BOOK WI. Aldfield. Bewerley with Dacre. Greenhow hill, Shelding, Studley Roger, Winksley." Wapen- take of Skyrack. season. They consist of about 650 acres, diversified by various inequalities, clothed with large and beautiful timber, and well-stocked with deer. The views are many and grand. Ripon and its minster are seen to great advantage. It is full of lofty hedges, which are neatly trimmed, and the waters, which are numerous, are kept within borders, “shaven with the sithe, and levelled with the roller;” the walks are lined with statues, and refreshed with cascades. These grounds were begun to be laid out about the year 1720. e No fanciful description can do justice to the exuberant distribution of nature and art which surrounds one on every side on entering these beautiful and enchant- ing grounds; the mind can never cease to wonder in contemplating, nor the eye tire in beholding them. . - - The mansion house, which is large and spacious, is highly finished, and well protected by stately woods, and ornamented with numerous paintings by the first masters. - - - - - The township of Aldfield contains one hundred and thirty-three inhabitants. The chapel is a perpetual curacy with Studley, dedicated to St. Lawrence, and valued in the parliamentary return at £74. Patroness, Miss Lawrence. * This village is situate about a mile above the venerable ruins of Fountains' abbey, on the banks of the Skell, and is celebrated for its valuable mineral springs, which are situate on the south side of the vale beneath, richly clothed with wood. This spa (discovered in 1698) is resorted to during the summer months by immense numbers of people, and only wants accommodation to render it a fashionable watering place, few spots abounding with more natural and picturesque scenery. & Bewerley with Dacre is an extensive township, having two thousand one hundred and eighty-five inhabitants. Bewerley hall is the seat of J. Yorke, Esq. At Dacre banks, in this township, is a small school, founded about 1695 by William Hard- castle. - - Greenhow hill, in this township, is a large straggling village, upon an eminence, west of Pateleybridge, abounding with lead mines, and in which there are rarely less than five hundred inhabitants of this village employed. The mines are Sun- side, Prosperous, Providence, Cockhill, and Merryfield, which produce annually about 2,000 tons. - - Shelding has fifty-six inhabitants; Studley Roger one hundred and forty-four persons; and Winksley, a small chapelry, has a population of one hundred and seventy-six persons. The chapel is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentar returns at £70. Patrons, the dean and chapter of Ripon. . The wapentake of Skyrack is divided into two portions, called the upper and lower divisions. The latter contains the parishes of THE COUNTY OF YORK. 379 ABERFord, COLLINGHAM, SWILLINGTON, BARDSEY, GARFORTH, - THORNER, BARwick IN ELMET, KIPPAX, - WHITE(IRR. The upper division of Skyrack wapentake contains the following parishes: ADDLE, GUISLEY, ILKLEY, BINGLEY, HAREWOOD, OTLEY. The market and parish town of ABERFORD is situate six miles from Tadcaster, and eleven from Pontefract and Leeds. The population of the town in 1821 amounted to five hundred and seventy-six persons, occupying one hundred and twenty-six houses. The market is held on Wednesday, and there are fairs on the last Mondays in April and May, first Monday in October, first Monday after St. Luke's, and first Monday after All Saints’. This town is situate on the Great North road, upon the small river Cock,--a river rendered famous in history by the battle of Towton, in 1461, a village a few miles lower down; the market is almost discontinued. At the north end of the town is the vestige of a Roman station, to which place the Roman road from Castleford runs. Aberford had once a good trade for pins, but it has long since fallen to decay. The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £6. 1s. 8d. Patron, Oriel College, Oxford. On the site of a school endowed by Lady Betty Hastings, in 1738, is built a new national school, conducted on the plan of Dr. Bell. About half a mile north from Aberford is a farm house, formerly a public-house, and known by the name of the Black Horse, which is said to have been the occasional retreat of the notorious Nevison, and at which house he baited his favourite mare, on his expe- ditious journey from London to York. This mare was afterwards given to the Gascoignes of Parlington. - Parlington is a small township, with a population of two hundred and twenty-six persons. * - , - - Here has long been a seat of a branch of the ancient family of Gascoigne, of Gawthorpe, the baronetage of which became extinct on the death of the late Sir Thomas Gascoigne, when Richard Oliver, Esq. of Parlington, succeeded him in his estates, and in compliance with his will assumed the name of Gascoigne. The township of Sturton Grange has ninety-two inhabitants. The parish of BARDSEY is situate four miles south of Wetherby. The township, with Rigton, has a population of three hundred and thirty-six persons. The benefice is a vicarage, dedicated to All Saints, and valued in the parlia- mentary returns at £150. Patron, G. Fox, Esq. The church affords a fine specimen of Norman architecture. On the north side of the village, and near to the Grange, are large earth works of some ancient buildings. - CHAP. XI. Aberford. School. Parling- ton. Sturton Grange. Bardsey. Rigton. Church. 380 HISTORY OF §OOK WI. Congreve. Worther- SOIſlBe Barwick. Church. Kiddall and Pot- terton, Barnbow, Morwick and Scholes. Roundhay. Colling- ham. At this place was born the celebrated William Congreve, the poet, whose baptism is thus registered:—“William, the sonne of Mr. William Congreve, of Bardsey grange, was baptised, February 10, 1669.” He wrote the “Old Bachelor,” the “ Double Dealer,” “Love for Love,” the “Mourning Bride,” the “Way of the World,” and some poems. Worthersome has sixteen inhabitants. BARwick in ELMET is situate in the liberty of Pontefract. It is seven miles from Tadcaster and Wetherby, and has a population of five hundred and ninety-three persons. This place is said to have been the seat of the kings of Northumberland, and Dr. Whitaker supposes it to have been founded by the great Edwin; “ the great extent and magnificence of this fortification, which is four furlongs in circumference, and contains an area of more than thirteen acres, sufficiently prove that it has been The mount, called Hall Tower Hill, has been encompassed by a double trench; on this mount most probably stood the royal mansion: it is now This manor was afterwards part of the possessions of the Lacys, Roger de Lacy having married the sister of William de Vesey, rector of this parish. From the Lacys it descended to the dukes of Lancaster, to which duchy it has been ever since annexed. * The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £33. 12s. 6d. : patron, the king. The church, dedicated to All Saints, is a small but neat structure. The township of Kiddall and Potterton contains one hundred and twenty-four inhabitants. Potterton lodge is the seat of E. Wilkinson, Esq. - The townships of Barnbow (population two hundred and seventy-three), and Morwick and Scholes (population four hundred and ninety-one) contain nothing deserving notice. - The handsome township of Roundhay has one hundred and eighty-six inha- bitants, principally occupants of elegant villas. A new church was built here about five years ago, at the expense of S. Nicholson, Esq. It is of the lancet style of architecture, with a tower and spire from the designs of the late Mr. Taylor, of Leeds. : - Here the ancient family of the Lacys, from the earliest period, after they became possessed of Pontefract with its dependencies, had a park; hence the name Round- hay, or the circular Pale. It was granted by Robert de Lacy to the monks of Kirkstall. - - * The parish town of CollingHAM is pleasantly situate on the banks of the Wharfe, one mile from Wetherby. The population amounts to two hundred and eighty- six persons. a royal work.” the only part that remains. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 381 The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £3, 11s. 53d.: patrons, the trustees of Lady Elizabeth Hastings. The church, dedicated to St. Oswald, is partly Norman, and partly of later date; the tower is large and embattled. GARFORTH is a small parish town, three miles from Aberford, with a population of seven hundred and thirty-one persons. The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £8, 17s. 83d.: patron, the Rev. W. Whitaker. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a neat edifice, with a tower at the west end. - The parish town of KIPPAx is seated on an eminence five miles and a half from Pontefract. In 1821 there were nine hundred and fifty-eight persons in this town. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the king's book at £5.7s. 1d. : patron, the king. The church is dedicated to St. Mary. Kippax park, in this township, is the elegant seat of Thomas Davison Bland, Esq. This park is large and beautiful, rising to the mansion, which was originally erected by Sir Thomas Bland, Knight, in the reign of Elizabeth. A part only of the ancient front remains in the centre of the building. The fabric was much en- larged about the latter end of the seventeenth century; and the principal front, including the offices, now extends six hundred feet in length. Allerton Bywater (population 329), and Great and Little Preston (four hun- dred and seventy-eight inhabitants), do not require further notice. SwillingTON is a pleasant parish town, situate on the north bank of the Aire, six miles from Leeds. The population, in 1821, amounted to five hundred and ten persons. . . The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £16. 1s. 8d.: patron, J. Lowther, Esq. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a uniform and decent structure, of rather late Gothic architecture, in which is a number of monumental inscriptions to the Lowthers, a family that has long been its patron. Here are four almshouses, founded by Sir William Lowther in 1728. Swillington hall is the seat of J. Lowther, Esq. It has a long but low front, and is not very conspicuous, from being situate near the river. THoRNER is situate on the high road from Leeds to Tadcaster, being seven miles distant from the latter town. Population, seven hundred and eight. The benefice, a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary return at £147. 10s., is in the patronage of the king. The church is dedicated to St. Peter. The township of Scarcroft has one hundred and five, and Shadwell one hundred and ninety-seven inhabitants. • Winmore, in this parish, is famous for a great battle fought on the 15th of November, 655, between Penda, king of the Mercians, and Oswy, king of Northum- bria, in which the former was defeated, and his army almost entirely destroyed. VOf... III. 5 E CHAP.XI. Garforth. Kippax. Park. Alberton By water. Great and Little Preston. Swilling- ton. Hall. Thorner. Scarcroft. Shadwell. 382 HISTORY OF BOOK WI, Whitkirk. Temple Newsome. The parish town of WHITKIRK, situate on the road from Leeds to Selby, is four miles distant from the former town, and has a population (including Temple Newsome) of one thousand one hundred and sixty-six persons. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary return at £120. It is in the patronage of Trinity College, Cambridge. The church is dedicated to St. Mary. - - - On the north wall of the chancel is an inscription to the celebrated architect of the Eddystone lighthouse. Sacred to the memory of John Smeaton, F.R.S. a man whom God had endowed with the most extraordinary abilities, which he indefatigably exerted for the benefit of mankind in works of science and philosophical research ; more especially as an engineer and a mechanic. His principal work, the Eddystone lighthouse, erected on a rock in the open sea, (where one had been washed away by the violence of a storm, and another had been consumed by the rage of fire), secure in its own stability and the wise precautions for its safety, seems not unlikely to convey to distant ages, as it does to every nation of the globe, the name of its constructor. He was born at Austthorpe, June 8, 1724, and departed this life October 28, 1792. Also sacred to the memory of Ann, the wife of the said John Smeaton, F. R. S. who died Jan. 17, 1784. Their two surviving daughters, duly imprest with sentiments of love and respect for the kindest and tenderest of parents, pay this tribute to their memory. In this parish is Temple-Newsome, the seat of the marquis of Hertford. Here formerly stood a preceptory for Knights Templars, whence it derives its name of Temple-Newsome, being called in Domesday only Newhusum. After the suppression of the knights templars, it was granted by Edward III., together with Temple-Hirst, to Sir John Darcy and his heirs male; in whose descendants it remained until the time of Thomas, Lord Darcy, on whose attainder, for the active part which he took in the pilgrimage of grace, it became forfeited to the crown. Henry VIII. granted it to Matthew, earl of Lenox, who resided here at the birth of his celebrated, but unhappy son, Henry, Lord Darnley, husband of Mary, Queen of Scots, and father of James I. On the death of the duke of Lenox it came into the possession of James I., who conferred the same upon his kinsman, Esme Stuart, duke of Richmond. The duke sold it to Sir Arthur Ingram, son of a wealthy citizen of London, and founder of the Irvine peerage, who pulled down the old house, and built the present magnificent structure on its site. The old house was not, however, completely demolished, for Thoresby asserts that the identical apart- ment in which Lord Darnley was born remained in his time, and was distinguished by the name of “the king's chamber.” It became the property of the late marquis of Hertford, in consequence of his marriage with Isabella Ann Ingram Shepherd, the eldest daughter of Charles, the tenth Viscount Irvine. The last Viscount Irvine died here in 1807. - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 383 The house is built in the form of a Roman H, and the roof is surrounded with a battlement composed of capital letters in stone-work, forming this inscription: All glory and praise be given to God the Father, the Son and Holy Ghost on high ; peace upon earth, good will towards men: honour and true allegiance to our gracious king, loving affections amongst his subjects, health and plenty within this house. - “In the window of the kitchen,” says Dr. Whitaker, “is a long and curious series of armorial bearings, from the Lacys, the first lords of this place, down to the Ingrams.” This house boasts a fine collection of pictures by the most eminent masters, the gallery for which is one hundred and nineteen feet long, and above twenty wide. CHAP. xi. Austhorpe has one hundred and fifty inhabitants. The hall is the seat of Austhorpe. J. Fields, Esq. Seacroft has eight hundred and eighty-six, and Thorpe Stapleton twenty-five inhabitants. The parish town of ADDLE is situate about five miles north of Leeds, and has a population (including Eccup), of six hundred and nine persons. t Adel or Addle, or “the Adhill of the Liber regis, which probably gives the true etymology of the word, the hill of Ada, the first Saxon colonist of the place,” is supposed to be the Burgo-dunum of the Romans; and from the great number of antiquities discovered here at different times, such as fragments of urns and other Roman vessels, monuments, pillars, aqueducts, inscriptions, &c. we may conclude it to have been a station of considerable importance. This station appears to have been about half a mile north of the church, for particulars of which we must refer the reader to Thoresby and Whitaker. The benefice, a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £16.3s. 4d. is in the patron- age of W. G. Davy, Esq. The church, one of the most interesting structures in the riding, is dedicated to St. John the Baptist. The church of Adel, built not long before 1100, is one of the most perfect and beautiful specimens of Norman architecture in the county, particularly when we consider its exposed situation. The rich and highly adorned entrance of the south side appears to have been renovated, at the request of Dr. Whitaker, by the present rector, the Rev. George Lewthwaite, in whose possession are many anti- quities found in the neighbouring station, above mentioned.* Cookridge hall, the seat of Richard Wormald, Esq. was formerly part of the possessions of Kirkstall abbey, to which it was given during the time of the first abbot, Alexander, and continued to the last. Numbers of coins, fragments of * An engraving of the south entrance, and another of the beautiful enriched arch entering the choir' are given in Whitaker's Loidis and Elmete, as well as the Norman capitals, and two Roman altars. Seacroft, Thorpe Stapleton. Addie. Church. Cookridge hall. 384 - HISTORY OF B{}OK WI. Arthing- toll. Nunnery. urns, and other Roman vessels, have at different times been found here; the Roman station at Adel-Mill not being far distant. Cookridge has been rendered famous for the noble and pleasant walks, in geometrical lines, contrived by Mr. Kirke, F.R.S. in Thoresby’s time, and who was then owner of the estate. After his death it was bought by, or for, Edmund Sheffield, then duke of Buckingham. The township of Arthington has three hundred and twenty-nine inhabitants. Here is the seat of W. G. Davy, Esq. - Here, about the middle of the twelfth century, was a priory of Cluniac nuns, built and endowed by peers of Arthington, who gave the site and demesnes of the house, which were augmented by Serlo, his son, and confirmed by Pope Alexander. It flourished till the year 1540, when Elizabeth Hall, the last prioress, and nine nuns, surrendered the same. It was valued at the dissolution at £11. 18s. 4d. Not a vestige is now to be seen. The site was granted to Thomas Cranmer, archbishop of Canterbury, in exchange. A plain substantial hall-house was built upon the site, apparently in the beginning of the reign of Charles I. ; for the front door-way, dated 1585, has evidently been removed from some older structure. It is now Bingley. Church. School, occupied as a farm house, the property of the earl of Harewood. Arthington itself would be distinguished for the beauty of its situation in any other valley than that of Wharfe. It is a large, well-built, square house, on a fine elevation above the river, and was for many centuries the seat of a family of that name. The parish and market town of BINGLEY, four miles from Keighley and six from Bradford, has a population of six thousand one hundred and seventy-six persons. The market is held on Tuesday, and fairs on Jan. 25, August 25, and two following days, for horned cattle. - This is one of the thirty-two lordships which the Conqueror gave to Erneis de Berun; how long he held it does not appear: but about the year 1120 it was the property of William Paganell, founder of the priory of Drax. His successors were the Gants; and William de Gant had a charter for a market here, in the twelfth year of King John. The family of the Cantilupes afterwards became possessed of it; and in later times we find it in the hands, by purchase, in 1668, of Robert Benson, father of the first Lord Bingley, whose descendant, James Lane Fox, Esq. is the present owner of it. In the time of Dodsworth, who visited this place in 1621, “there was a park at Bingley and castle near the church, on a hill called Bailey hill,” of which little more than the name and tradition now remain. - - The benefice, a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary return at £138, is in the patronage of the king. The church, dedicated to All Saints, a plain and decent structure, was restored in the early part of the reign of Henry VIII. - Here is a free grammar school, founded in the twentieth year of Henry VIII., THE COUNTY OF YORK. 385 value about £400 per annum; present master, the Rev. Dr. Hartley. By a decree of Lord Chancellor Eldon, in December, 1820, it was determined that it should be conducted as a free grammar school for teaching the children of the inhabitants of the parish of Bingley, the learned languages. A national school was established here in 1814; it is supported by voluntary contributions. - Besides the parish church, there are in Bingley three Methodist chapels, one Baptist chapel, and an Independent chapel. The worsted manufacture is carried on in this town and neighbourhood to a considerable extent; and there are several large spinning concerns, both in the worsted and in the cotton line. About sixty years ago was discovered, near Morton, one of the most valuable deposits of Roman coins ever turned up in Britain. It consisted of a very large quantity of denarii in excellent preservation; for the most part of Septimius Severus, Julia Domna, Caracalla, and Geta, contained in the remains of a brass chest, which had probably been the military chest of a Roman legion, and deposited, upon some sudden alarm, in a situation which it had quietly occupied during a period of almost sixteen centuries.* East and West Morton contain one thousand one hundred and ninety-nine in- habitants. The parish town of GUISLEY, two miles south of Otley, has a population of one thousand two hundred and thirteen persons. The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £26. The next presenta- tion belongs to Trinity college, Cambridge. The church is dedicated to St. Oswald, and comprises a nave and aisles, chancel, and transepts, with a neat tower. The south aisle of the nave has circular arches, resting on clustered columns. Carlton has one hundred and fifty-eight inhabitants. The chapelry of Horsforth has two thousand eight hundred and twenty-four inhabitants. - The benefice is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary returns at £73. (This chapel was erected in 1758, under the auspices of the Stanhope family, de- scendants of John Stanhope, joint purchaser of the manor of Horsforth, in the time of Elizabeth. The abbot of Kirkstall had much land in this township. “On the lofty ridge of Billinge, near here,” says Dr. Whitaker, “ was found, about the year 1780, a valuable remain of British antiquity. This was a torques of pure and flexible gold, perfectly plain, and consisting of two rods, not quite cylindrical, but growing thicker towards the extremities, and twisted together. Its intrinsic value was £18. sterling. It was claimed by the lord of the manor.” * - Besides the chapel, there is a Wesleyan Methodist and a Baptist chapel in this village. - * Gentleman's Magazine, 1769, p. 377. VOL. III. 5 F - CHAP. XI. Roman coin. Morton. Guisley. Carlton. Horsforth.' 386 - HISTORY OF Book VI. Rawdon. Yeadon. Priory. Harewood. Church. New hall is the residence of the Rev. J. A. Rhodes. Rawdon is also a chapelry in this parish, with a population of one thousand seven hundred and fifty-nine persons. The chapel is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary returns at £109. - - The extensive township of Yeadon has two thousand four hundred and fifty-five inhabitants. w Esholt hall is the seat of Joshua Crompton, Esq. Here was a priory of about six Cistercian nuns, founded by Simon de Ward, about the middle of the twelfth century, dedicated to St. Mary and St. Leonard. This priory fell with the small houses, and was valued by Dugdale at £13,0s. 4d., but by Speed at £19. 0s. 8d. The site was granted in the 1st of Edward VI., 1547, to Henry Thompson, ancestor of those families of the Thompsons now living in and near York. The parish town of HAREwood, situate on the high road from Leeds to Ripon, is eight miles distant from the former town. The population amounted, in 1821, to eight hundred and forty-nine persons. A market is held here on Monday, and fairs on the last Monday in April, and the second Monday in October, but they are ill attended. This is one of the neatest villages in this county; the houses are uniformly and handsomely built of stone, consisting of two streets, one running north and south, the other east and west, the latter forming a regular approach to the gateway leading to Harewood house. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £14. 1s. 10d. It is in the patronage of the earl of Harewood with the parishioners, and G. H. Wheeler, Esq. of Ledstone, alternately, - The church, dedicated to All Saints, is of great antiquity; it is surrounded by a thick grove of trees, which, by their embowering shade, give to it a peculiar air of solemnity; the west end is beautifully mantled with ivy. In the number and perfect preservation of the tombs of its lords, this church probably surpasses every parish church in the county; and as virtue and honest patriotism are, almost on all occasions, held up to us as models deserving our imitation, this place has been pointed out by all historians as most sacred, for it contains the relics of the virtuous judge, Sir William Gascoigne, of Gawthorpe, who was, while trying one of the prince of Wales's favourites, insulted upon the bench by the prince himself, after- wards Henry V. The judge resolutely committed him, declaring he would have the laws respected. This upright judge discovered equally his resolution and integrity, in refusing to try Archbishop Scrope for high treason, an office which another judge, who was not so scrupulous, assumed, and pursued to a fatal point for that prelate. - - º º - - - - - - d THE COUNTY OF YORK. 387 Among the monuments in this church, the following deserve particular notice:– The first consists of an altar tomb, with the extended effigies of Sir William Gas- coigne and his wife Elizabeth, daughter and co-heiress of Sir William Mowbray, of Kirklington. On a brass filleting about this tomb was the following inscription, said to have been torn away in the civil wars. #ic jacºt meitmus &ascoigne nup: Tapt. §ugtic. be 3anca #entici nup. regis Ingliae quatti, & ©lisabetſ, urot ejug, qui quitem ſºilſ mug abilt bie Dominica vi" tie Petembrig *Immo ºpeni MCCCCXII—xiv. #entici iw' factus juber MCCCCI. Between the chancel and north aisle is another tomb, which probably covers Sir Richard Redman, and Elizabeth his wife, daughter and co-heiress of Sir William Aldborough, of Harewood castle. That the knight is a Redman is proved by the crest, a horse's head on his helmet. . Opposite to this is a tomb, from the style, contemporary with the former, and most probably intended for Sir William Ryther, of Ryther, Knt., and Sybil his wife, the other daughter and co-heiress of Sir William Aldborough. From the circum- stance of their interment here, it should seem as if both these co-heiresses and their families resided by turns at Harewood castle; if this were the case, their respective property in the manor must have been undivided, and each family resided there alternately, as there was certainly no other house upon the estate which either could have inhabited. Of the next tomb, Glover, who made his heraldic visitation with great care and curiosity, in 1585, gives the following account: “In Harewood church, north aisle, belonging to Harewood castle, an altar tomb:—effigies of a knight and lady cum- bent, his head on helmet; and crest, a horse's head, which denotes it to have been a Redman: feet on lion, on which sits a monk with beads, against which sole of the right foot rests.” Most probably Sir Richard Redman, grandson of the former, and Elizabeth his wife, daughter of Sir William Gascoigne, of Gawthorpe. Another tomb at the feet of Chief Justice Gascoigne in the south aisle, by the arms and crest,-gules, a saltire argent, and a bull’s head, evidently meant for a Nevile, most probably Sir John Nevile, of Wormesley, who died in the 22d of Edward IV. or 1482, whose daughter and heiress, Joan, married Sir William Gascoigne." - The last is more uncertain than any of the rest. It is by some supposed to com- memorate a Frank of Alwoodly, and by others a Thwaites. All these have recumbent statues nearly entire, and in the most beautiful preser- vation. CHAP. XI. Monu- Iments. Harewood house, the seat of the earl of Harewood, is the principal ornament of Harewood this part of Yorkshire. house. 38S - HISTORY OF BOOK WI. This magnificent mansion was built by the late Mr. John Muschamp, of Hare- wood, under the direction of Mr. Adams, of London, and Mr. Carr, of York. The foundation was laid in March, 1759, by the late Lord Harewood. It is situate at the top of a hill, fronting to the south, and commanding “a rich home view over fields and woods, with one slight exception nearly all his own.” “This,” says Dr. Whitaker, “is a fortunate place, blessed with much natural beauty and fertility; and in the compass of a country village, with nearly an entire though dismantled castle, a modern palace surrounded by a wide extent of pleasure grounds and plantations, and a parish church filled with unmutilated sculptures of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries.” The whole length of the building is two hundred and forty-eight feet, and the width eighty-four feet, consisting of a centre and two wings, displaying all the richness of Corinthian architecture. The apartments are numerous and large, and finished in the first style of elegance, and with great taste. The ceilings are, many of them, richly ornamented from designs of Rebecci and others; the paintings, busts, &c. by the first masters, are extremely numerous; and the whole of this princely mansion is fitted up with so much costly elegance, yet usefulness evidently united, that no elaborate description can do it justice. The taste displayed in the pleasure grounds and gardens corresponds with the magnificence of the house; they comprise nearly one hundred and fifty acres, laid out by Brown, at the expense of about £16,000. ge On the declivity of the hill, rising from the vale of Wharfe, stands the dilapidated castle of Harewood,” built soon after the Conquest, and then, with the manor, in Castle. * “This singular edifice may be considered more properly as a very strong tower-built house than as a castle, properly so called. It stands on the steep slope of a hill, rising southward, to which the lower floors are adapted. It has never had a keep, a bailey, or outer gate, but has been left to the single defence of its own walls. These, however, are so strong as to take away much from the comforts, while they provided for the security of the inhabitants. The principal entrance has been from the north-east, and beneath a square turret, adorned with the shields of Aldborough and Baliol, the latter probably a compliment from Sir William de Aldborough (who appears to have been the rebuilder) to Edward Baliol, who is said to have been entertained here when driven out of his own kingdom. Between these is the predestinarian motto of the founder, in black letter, bat fiāl he gal. A small apartment over the space between the outer and inner doorway of this tower has been the domestic oratory, richly adorned with shields of arms. The great hall, the windows of which are mere loophole lights, must have been wretchedly dark and uncomfortable. This precaution is evidently to be accounted for from the want of a bailey, or an inner quadrangle, to which the halls of our great castles were indebted for a degree of security enabling their builders to light them by bay windows. But the most singular circumstance about this room is a recess near the upper end of the west wall, which has almost every appearance of a tomb contemporary with the building: and a tomb it has been repeatedly affirmed to be. But of whom 7 Of the founder assuredly, if it were a tomb at all. Yet Sir William de Aldborough is known to have been interred in the parish church. Besides, who ever dreamed in those days of being interred in un- consecrated earth? or what heir would have permitted so incongruous a circumstance in a scene of con- viviality ? Besides, the original slab has been removed, and instead of a stone coffin nothing appears. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 389 possession of William de Meschines; and after passing through various families, we find it in the time of Edward III. in that of the Aldboroughs. In the reign of Elizabeth, they were in the possession of the Gascoignes; and after that in the family of the Wentworths, of whom the castle and estate were jointly purchased by Sir J. Lewes and Sir John Cutler, of parsimonious memory. On a partition, this place with its dependencies fell to the share of Sir John Cutler, who sometimes resided at Gawthorpe, the castle then being completely dismantled. He left it to his only daughter Elizabeth, wife of John Robartes, earl of Radnor, with remainder, in failure of issue, to his relation, John Boulter, Esq. who took possession, on the decease of this countess, in 1696. Of his trustees, this manor was purchased about the year 1721, by Henry Lascelles, Esq. father of the first Lord Harewood, who spent the best part of a long life in improving and adorning a situation so peculiarly capable of both. --- The family of the Lascelles is very ancient, and appears from a pedigree in Loidis and Elmete, to have descended from John de Lascelles, or Hinderskelfe, and who held lands in 1315, in the 9th of Edward II. - On the 9th of July, 1790, Edwin Lascelles, the first Lord Harewood, was ad- vanced to the peerage; and at his decease, 25th of January, 1795, was succeeded by Edward, the late earl, who was created earl of Harewood and Wiscount Lascelles, by patent, dated September 7, 1812, and succeeded by his son Henry. The township of Alwoodley * has one hundred and forty-two inhabitants. The townships of Weardley, population one hundred and ninety-one; Wigton, one hundred and sixty-four; Wike, one hundred and thirty-nine; East Keswick,"f two hundred and ninety-six; Dunkeswith,; two hundred and fifty-seven; and Weeton,' three hundred and ten, have no particular features deserving notice. . ILKLEY is a small parish town, beautifully situate on the south bank of the river Wharfe, at the distance of six miles from Otley. The population of this place, in 1821, amounted to four hundred and ninety-six persons. This is a very ancient town, and known to antiquaries as the Olicana of the Romans; it was built in Severus's time, by Virius Lupus, legate and propraetor of but a mass of solid grout work; while, instead of kneeling figures of priests or children, beneath appears, on a sort of frieze, a light and elegant enrichment of vine leaves and grapes. From this last circumstance, combined with its situation near the head of the high table, I am persuaded that it was no other than an ancient sideboard.”—Whitaker. - * “This place was formerly a seat of the Franks, afterwards the estate of Sir Gervaise Clifton, the noted baronet, who outdid Henry VIII. in the number of his wives; for, whereas that monarch, three Kates, two Nans, and one dear Jane had wedded; this baronet had three honorables, three right worshipfuls, and one well-beloved wife; he died in 1666.”—Thoresby. f In the lower division of Skyrack wapentake. # In the upper division of Skyrack wapentake. § In the upper division of Skyrack wapentake. WOL. III. 5 G CHAP. XI. Alwood- ley. Wear dley. Wigton. Wike. Keswick. Dunkes- with. Weeton. Ilkley. 390 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Church. School. Britain, as appears from an inscription dug up near the church, and given in Cam- den’s Britain :- - “Im. Severvs Avg. et Antoninvs Caes. Destinatvs Restituervmt, Cyrante Virio Lypo. Leg. Eorym Pr. Pr.” - That the first cohort of the Lingones quartered here, is also attested by an old altar which Camden saw here, inscribed by the captain of the first cohort of the Lingones to Verbeia, perhaps the goddess of the river Wharfe. This altar, by a long and unfortunate exposure to the weather, is become illegible, and is at Mid- dleton lodge. The fortress itself, of which the outline on three sides is very entire, was placed on a steep and lofty bank, having the river Wharfe on the north, and the deep channel of a brook immediately on the east and west. The southern boundary seems to have coincided with the present street, and the hall and parish church were evidently included within it. The foundations of the fortress, bedded in indissoluble mortar, are very conspicuous; and remains of Roman brick, glass, and earthenware, everywhere appear on the edges of the brow. º Olicana had its summer camps and out-posts, which appear on the surrounding heights of Castleberg, near to which has been found an urn with ashes; and a massy key of copper, nearly two feet in length, which had probably been the key of the gates; — Counterhill and Woofa Bank. At Counterhill are two encampments, on different sides of the hill; one in the township of Addingham, and the other in the parish of Kildwick. When the area of Woofa Bank was broken up, it was found to contain great numbers of rude fire-places, constructed of stone, and filled with ashes. - A few years ago a sepulchral inscription was discovered in a garden wall at Ilkley, by the Rev. Mr. Carr, in whose possession it now remains, commemorating the death of Pudens Jesseus. The benefice, a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary returns at £56. Is. 6d., is in the patronage of George Hartley, Esq. The church, dedicated to All Saints, is a neat edifice, containing nothing remarkable but the tomb of Sir Adam de Middleton, mentioned by Camden, which, though it has been repeatedly displaced for the successive interments of the family, is yet entire. Dr. Whitaker supposes that the three ancient Saxon crosses here, wrought in frets, scrolls, knots, &c., which Camden conjectured to be Roman, were early objects of religious reverence, and to have some allusion to the mystery of the Holy Trinity. l This village is much frequented during the summer months, for the benefit of its cold bath, near the village, which has proved highly beneficial in relaxed and scro- fulous cases. Dr. Hunter published an analysis of the water in 1820. Here is a free grammar-school, built by the parishioners, and endowed, in º o - WWM § |Wººl º T - ſººn Lºu- §§ º |nºi - c - º º E º -- º > º - º º º H - º º 5 º º º - º o - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 391 1601, by George Marshall, Esq., late of Ilkley; also in 1701, by Reginald Heber, Esq., of the Inner Temple, London. The united township of Middleton and Stockhill # has two hundred and five inhabitants. Middleton lodge is the seat of W. Middleton, Esq. Nesfield with Langbart contains two hundred and ten inhabitants. - The market and parish town of OTLEY, delightfully situate on the banks of the Wharfe, is ten miles north of Leeds, and has a population of three thousand and sixty-five persons. The market is held on Friday, and fairs on the first Monday after August 2; Friday between new and old Martinmas-day; and fortnight fairs on. Fridays, for horned cattle and sheep. CHAP. XI, Middleton and Stock- hill. Nesſield with Lang- bar. Otley. According to Dr. Whitaker, this place is the Othelai of Domesday, the field of Etymolo- Othe, or Otho, a personal appellation, not uncommon in England before and after the Conquest. It is one of the great Saxon parishes, the parent of several others, which were separated in the universal spirit of church building, after the Con- quest. At this time it was of great extent, and contained eighty-one square miles, comprehending the present parish of Otley, part of Wistow, Guisley, and a part of Ilkley, including Middleton and Stubham. It now contains, besides the parish church, six chapels. The manor of Otley was given to the see of York, by King Athelstan; and in Kirkby's Inquest, 1287, it was returned, that the archbishop of York held in Otley half a fee. In the Nomina Villarum, 1316, the archbishop is also returned as lord, as his successors have been to the present day; and who have a civil, as well as spiritual jurisdiction within the place where justice is administered by magistrates, holding their commission under the metropolitan, for the liberty of Cawood, Wistow, and Otley. The site of the ancient man- sion of the archbishop of York, at the north end of the town, is still denominated the Manor-house; and when the present house, which occupies the site, was erected, some ancient and strong foundations were taken up. This, with the gallows, in the vicinity of the town, and the peculiar jurisdiction within it, are all the relics now remaining of this ancient place, once inhabited by the metropolitans. The kitchens of the manor house here were built, Drake informs us, by the muni- ficent archbishop Bowet, who in consequence consumed at Otley some portion of the fourscore tuns of claret, with a proportionate quantity of other elements of hospitality, which he is said to have annually expended. But whether it was ever honoured by the residence of any of his successors is uncertain. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary return at £128. The church, dedicated to All Saints, is a spacious building, in which are several ancient monuments, especially of the families of Fairfax, Eawkes, Vavasour, gy. * In the upper division of Claro wapentake. + In the upper division of Claro wapentake. Church. 392 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. School. Hospital. Otley Chevin. Palmes, and Pulleyn. In the upper end of the south aisle is the tomb of Thomas, Lord Fairfax, and Helen Aske, his lady, the grandfather and grandmother of Sir T. Fairfax, the parliamentary general. Nothing of the original Saxon church re- mains, excepting, perhaps, the north door, which has a circular arch. The fort- night fairs in Otley have long been famous for fat cattle; and large quantities of corn are sold in this market weekly, and sent into the manufacturing districts south-west of Otley. - Here is a grammar-school, founded in 1611, by Thomas Cave, who made the feoffees a body corporate. Their seal is a rod on one side, with a palm branch on the other; motto — “ Deum Pave, Tomo Cave”—Fear God, and mind thy book; being a pun upon the founder's name. - A hospital for lepers existed here in the time of Edward II., but no vestiges of the building now remain. Formerly the woollen trade prevailed at Otley to some extent, under the fostering care of the society of Merchant Adventurers, instituted in 1296, and a legal writ conferred upon the clothiers to erect cloth tenters before the premises in Cross-green; but this trade has long since departed and esta- blished itself in situations more contiguous to fuel, and better situated for inland navigation. At the south-east of the town, on a craggy cliff, is the hill called Otley Chevin, which rises high over the road to Leeds, and together with Romalds-moor and Pool Bank, forms a mountainous range, extending to the river Wharfe. Baildon” is a chapelry, with two thousand six hundred and seventy-nine in- habitants. The chapel is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Giles, and valued in the parliamentary return at £113. 11s. 8d. Patron, the vicar of Otley. The township of Bramhope has three hundred and sixty-six inhabitants. Here is a donative chapel, founded by Robert Dyneley, Esq., about the year 1649, the patronage of which is vested in six trustees, who have power to suspend or deprive the minister. The founder was a zealous patron of the Puritan clergy. Bramhope hall is the residence of W. Rhodes, Esq. The chapelry of Burley has a resident population amounting, in 1821, to one thousand two hundred souls. * The chapel, a perpetual curacy, (without the right of sepulture), valued in the parliamentary return at £37. 1s., is in the patronage of M. Wilson, Esq. , Esholt is a small township, with three hundred and fifty-five inhabitants. Esholt hall is the good family seat of J. Crompton, Esq. Hawkesworth contains three hundred and twenty-three inhabitants. This place gave name and residence to a family of the highest antiquity to Baildon. Bramhope. Burley. Esholt. Hawkes- worth. * A fair is held here on the first Saturday in March and November. ſºgrºſsmºnaearºnºsºſ， onafhaesſanaeoptionſ |-- ¿?，7|×ׄZO ZZZZ， ZZZZ （ſººſ №ſſae， THE county of York. 393 which authentic records usually ascend, and is one of the instances in which pro- perty has descended in the possession of one family from the Conquest to the pre- sent time; for it appears by a pedigree of the family, attested by the king at arms, in 1642, that John, the father of Walter de Hawksworth, the first possessor of this place, came over with the Conqueror, and was killed at the battle of Hastings, where he commanded under Richard Fitzpoint, a Norman baron, surnamed Clifford, Lord Clifford, of Clifford castle. It is now the property of Walter Fawkes, Esq., of Farnley, a lineal descendant of the family, and whose father resided here till 1786. The hall is an irregular stone building of various periods. The oldest part bears the date of 1611, on some rich and curious plaster work, very characteristic of that age. It is the residence of C. Carroll, Esq. - sº Menstone has two hundred and fifty-seven inhabitants. - The chapelry of Poole contains two hundred and ninety-four inhabitants. The church is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £71. 17s. : patron, the vicar of Otley. - r The chapelry of Denton” has one hundred and ninety-two inhabitants. The chapel is a donative, valued in the parliamentary return at £20: patron, Sir H. C. Ibbetson, Bart. - - Denton park is the seat of Sir Henry Carr Ibbetson, Bart., is delightfully situate upon the banks of the Wharfe, and was for several generations the principal resi- CHAP. xi. Menstone. Poole. Denton. Park. dence of the Fairfaxes, of whom Sir William Fairfax married Isabel, daughter of Thomas Thwaites, by whom he had the manor of Denton. This line, in several generations, produced two judges, Sir Guy and William Fairfax; and two distin- guished generals, Ferdinando and Thomas, successively Lords Fairfax, the well- known commanders for the parliament. To Thomas, Lord Fairfax, the public are indebted for the voluminous collections of Dodsworth. In the old house at Denton, Prince Rupert lodged, on his way from Lancashire to York, a few days - before the battle of Marston-moor, in 1644, and was only prevented destroying the house by the sight of a fine painting of John Fairfax, younger brother of the then lord, who had been slain while defending Frankendale, in the palatinate, 1621. About sixty years ago this mansion was taken down, and a modern edifice erected in its stead, from the designs of Mr. Carr, of York. - The township of Farnley, situate on the north bank of the Wharfe, has one hun- dred and seventy-two inhabitants. - - The chapel is a perpetual curacy, under Otley, valued in the parliamentary return at £38. It is a small edifice, apparently built in the reign of Henry III. Farnley hall is the seat of Walter Fawkes, Esq. It stands on a lofty brow, com- 4 * All the remaining townships in this parish are in the upper division of Claro wapentake. WOL. III. * 5 H * Farnley. Farnley hall. 394 ~. - HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Mindley. Newhall with Clif- ton. - Little Timble. Claro wa- pentake. manding noble views up and down the vale of Wharfe, with the planted ridge of Chevin in front. Attached to the old mansion, of Queen Elizabeth's time, is a magnificent modern house, built by the late proprietor, soon after he became possessed of the estate. Farnley has been distinguished by the residence of its lords from the earliest times on record. These, from the origin of local surnames, bore the name of de Farneley; but Falcasius de Farneley, temp. Henry III. had a son, who, adopting the patronymic Falcasii, or, in his own dialect, Fawkes, i.e. son of Fawkes, transmitted that appellation to his posterity.* Lindley has one hundred, and seventy-eight inhabitants. : Newhall with Clifton is a small township, having only two hundred and eight inhabitants. - - - - - Newhall, now in a decayed state, was formerly the seat of Edward Fairfax, Esq. a celebrated poet, who flourished in the reigns of Elizabeth and James I. He had received a liberal education, but led a retired life at his favourite seat here, where he devoted himself to the muses, and died at Newhall, about the year 1632. He published a work on demonology, entitled, “A Discourse of Witch- craft, as it was acted in the family of Mr. Edward Fairfax, of Friestone, in the county of York, in the year 1621;” but his principal production is a trans- lation of Tasso's poem of “Godfrey of Boulogne,” which was formerly very popular. - - Little Timble has sixty-two inhabitants. Claro wapentaket is divided into the upper and lower divisions: the latter contains the following parishes:– - * ALDHoRough, HAMPSThwaite, Nrp1) with GREAT oušEBURN, BUR'ron LEoNARD, HAVERAH PARK, PANNALL, coPGROVE, - KIRKBY MALZEARD, south STAINLEy, PARNHAM, KNARESBOROUGH, STAver, EY. FEwston, º LIND RICK, The upper division of Claro wapentake contains the following parishes:— ALLERTON MAULEVERer, KERKBY OVERBLOW, hitti, E ouseburn, cow Thorpe, KIRK HAMERTON, RIPLEY, : GoLDSBorough, LEATHLEY, SPOFFORTH, Hunsingone, - MARTON with GRAfton, walkingham Hill, KIRR DEIGHTON, NUN Monkton, weston, whixley. - w • tºu * Whitaker's Loidis and Elmete. 3. . + At Claro hill, near Allerton-Mauleverer, in Saxon times, was held the Gemote, or assembly of the people of this wapentake, for the transacting of all public concerns relative to the district; and where, by the laws of King Edgar, every freeman in such distriet was obliged to attend. | | | . | | | | º º - - 5 º º – - | º | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - | | | º | | º - º - | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - º THE COUNTY OF Yo RK. 395 The parish and borough town of KNARESBoRough is situate in the liberties of St. Peter, York, and Knaresborough. It is seven miles from Wetherby and Boroughbridge, and eighteen miles almost due west from York. The town is delightfully situate on the north-eastern bank of the river Nidd, which runs in a most romantic valley or glen, below precipitous rocks. On the eastern side of Knaresborough, the country falls with a very gentle descent for the space of several miles; and towards that quarter are the most beautiful, rich, and extensive prospects, overlooking a great part of the vale of York, and terminated by the bold outline of the moors and the wolds. Towards the west, the country has a gradual ascent, and the views are less extensive; but they are agreeably variegated by vales and eminences, woods, groves, country seats and farms, and comprise almost every rural object that can delight the eye and the mind of the spectator. The town is well built, and in 1821 contained one thousand and ninety-six houses, and five thousand two hundred and eighty-three inhabitants, many of whom are employed in the manufacture of linen, which has here been carried on during several centuries. Here is also a manufactory of cotton, which employs many hands. Knaresborough is a borough, and has sent two members to parliament from the first of Mary, 1553. The right of election was then vested in eighty-four or eighty- eight burgage houses; the duke of Devonshire is the principal proprietor. The market is held on Wednesday, and is one of the greatest corn markets in York- shire, a vast quantity of grain being sold here, and sent westwards, particularly to Skipton and other parts of Craven. - Mr. Hargrove, the historian of Knaresborough, supposes, with great probability, that the name of the town is derived from its situation, knares, in the German language, signifying a hard knot, or a rocky mountain.” He also conjectures that it may have been a fortified post of the Romans, as it is easy to trace the remains of a ditch or rampart, enclosing an area of nine hundred feet long, by six hundred broad, comprehending the market place, and the principal part of the town. Every part of these ramparts would command an extensive view of the distant country, from whence the inhabitants might with great advantage watch the mo- tions of an enemy, and stand prepared to repel every hostile approach. Whatever was the condition of this place before the Conquest, with regard to its privileges, we find it at that period a complete Saxon manor; viz. one town- ship presiding over ten others. It formed part of the demesnes of the crown, and contained forty-two carucates of land, wanting a half, of which twenty-four were arable. In the reign of Edward the Confessor, it was valued at £6, but at the time of the Domesday survey it paid only £1. From this depreciation it appears, • Hargrove's Hist. Knaresborough, p. 14. CHAP. XI. Knares- borough, Borough. Market. Etymolo- gy • - Manor. 396 HISTORY OF that Knaresborough and the ten villages that composed the manor, had shared in the general devastation of this part of the country, after the reduction of York by the Conqueror.” - - Knaresborough castle, once the ornament and security of the town, and of which the inconsiderable remains recall to remembrance the events of its history, was built by Serlo de Burgh, baron of Tonsburgh in Normandy, who, with his brother John, accompanied the Conqueror to England, and received this, together with several other lordships, as a reward for his services. Serlo was succeeded by his brother John, who married Magdalen, aunt to Stephen, king of England. He had issue Richard the Red, who left, among other children, Jeffrey, bishop of Ely. The eldest son, Eustace Fitz-John, succeeded as lord of Knaresborough, and re- sided at his castle here, as appears by the monks of Fountains recording his gene- rosity to them in their distress. Eustace Fitz-John, espousing the cause of the Empress Maud, appeared in arms against Stephen; but the enterprise not succeed- ing, he retired into Scotland, and was present at the battle of Northallerton, A. D. 1138; after which he lived to see Henry II. ascend the throne of England, and fell in his cause, fighting against the Welsh in the year 1156. On the retreat of Eustace Fitz-John into Scotland, the king gave to Robert d’Estoteville the lord- ship of Knaresborough. This nobleman was also present in the English army at the battle of Northallerton, and his son Robert was one of the five English gentlemen who, with only four hundred cavalry, surprised and took William, king of Scotland, prisoner, near Alnwick, in the year 1174, within sight of his own camp. - , , - - In the reign of Henry III. this manor was granted to Hubert de Burgh, earl of Kent, and his heirs. But the son of Hubert joining the standard of Simon de Montford at the battle of Evesham, which was fought August 5th, A. D. 1265, it was forfeited to the crown, and Henry III. granted it to his brother, Richard, earl of Cornwall. Richard dying, left his estates to his son Edward, on whose death without issue, A. D. 1300, the earldom of Cornwall, and with it the manor of Knaresborough, reverted to the crown. It was afterwards granted by Edward II. BOOK WI. Castle. * The forest of Knaresborough extends, from east to west, upwards of twenty miles ; and, in some places, is eight miles in breadth. By the general survey, completed in the year 1086, we find there were then only four townships in this forest; that is, Birstwith, Fewstone, Beckwith and Rosset. Two hundred and eighty-two years afterwards, namely, in the year 1868, there appear to have been three principal towns and sixteen hamlets, many of which had originated from waste lands after the Conquest : 1. Thruscross; with its seven hamlets, Hill, Bramley, Padside, Thornthwaite, Menwith, Holme and Darley. X- - - 2. Clint; with its five hamlets, Birstwith, Fellescliffe, Fearnhill, Hampsthwaite, and Rowden. 3. Killinghall; with its four hamlets, Beckwith, Rossett, Bilton, and Harrogate. These have since been divided into eleven constabularies: Bilton-with-Harrogate, Killinghall, Clint, Hampsthwaite, Fellescliffe, Birstwith, Men with-with-Darley, Thruscross, Timble, Clifton, and Pannal. THE COUNTY OF YORK, 397 to his favourite, Piers Gaveston, and while that monarch was at York, expecting à. hostile visit from the Scots, he gave orders that the castle or Knaresborough should be furnished with a large quantity of military stores. In the year 1319 the Scots made a dreadful irruption into England, and after levying heavy contributions at Northallerton and Ripon, they burned the towns of Skipton and Knaresborough. In the year 1371 the manor and castle of Knaresborough were given by Ed- ward III. to his fourth son, John of Gaunt, duke of Lancaster. From that time it has belonged to the duchy of Lancaster. This castle was afterwards one of the places in which the unfortunate Richard II. was imprisoned after being dethroned by Henry IV. The place of his confinement is supposed to have been in that part of the ruins still called the king's chamber.* From the decays of time, and the shocks sustained in ancient wars, this castle was found in the year 1590 to want considerable repairs. These were begun and completed under the direction of Henry Slingsby, Esq., who held the castle and barbican by lease. The expenses were, by an order of the earl of Cumberland, steward of the honour of Knares- borough, to be paid by the foresters, according to ancient custom. In the year 1616 this castle and lordship were granted by James I. to his son Charles, in the troubles of whose unhappy reign this town and the surrounding country had a considerable share. - In the early part of the civil war, and till after the reduction of York by the parliamentarians, in 1644, the royalist garrison at Knaresborough, consisting of a great number of horse and foot, was the terror of the surrounding country. Scarcely a day passed in which the parliament did not receive intelligence of the depredations and wanton cruelties committed by foraging and marauding parties of the king's horse, from this town and Skipton. But in the beginning of November, 1644, Lord Fairfax appeared before Knaresborough, and on the 12th of the same month took the town by assault. The garrison, however, retiring into the castle, held out till the 20th of December, and then surrendered on honourable con- ditions. In the year 1648, the castle of Knaresborough, with several others, was, by an order of parliament, rendered untenable. The massive walls and formidable towers have ever since been mouldering away; yet even now the elevation of the style, and the remaining fragments of its former magnificence, strike the imagination with the idea of strength and awful importance.f. * * This castle contained nearly two acres and a half within its walls, which were flanked with eleven towers: these, with several other buildings in the different wards, * Hist. Knaresborough, p. 31. t Hargrove's Hist. of Knaresborough, p. 39. Oliver Cromwell is said to have been at Knares- borough soon after the surrender, and to have lodged in a house in the High-street.-Gent. Mag. March, 1791. WOL. III. 5 I CHAP. XI. Survey. 398 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. afforded convenience and accommodation for a numerous garrison. Part of the principal tower is still remaining, and appears to have been built about the time of Edward III. It consists of three stories above the keep or dungeon. The first room on the ground-floor, next the river, has been from time immemorial the repository for the ancient court-records. Next to this, in the castle, is the guard- room, thirty-two feet by twenty-two, with a vaulted roof, supported by two massy pillars, which, at the height of six feet, diverge and spread all over the roof. Though this room was formerly the principal entrance into the castle, the outward gate was defended by a portcullis, and a draw-bridge that fell across a very deep moat, facing the present bowling-green. Here is also a small circular staircase, that led from the guard-room to the state-room, so narrow that one centinel alone might defend the passage. Next to the guard-room, on the same level, is the old prison for debtors within the forest and liberties of Knaresborough. The second story was entirely taken up by the anti-chamber and state-room, commonly called the king's chamber, each room appearing to have been about six- teen feet square: the first had a fire-place on the south side, and was lighted by two narrow slips on the opposite side. The state-room had a large fire-place on the north, opposite to which was a very magnificent window, ten feet in breadth, and fifteen feet high.* The principal entrance into these rooms was contrived in such a manner as to render it inaccessible to an enemy. It led first from the outer court through an arched portal, and a zigzag passage, into a vestibule, or guard- room, from whence the only access to the anti-chamber was by a staircase of stone, defended by two portcullises. The third story was of the same dimensions as the two former; and the top of the tower was crowned with a parapet and battlements. This tower was a square of fifty-four feet each side, and fifty-three feet in height; ... two sides of it have fallen a prey to time and violence, and one corner only remains. Underneath is the dungeon, into which the descent is by twelve steps. This horrid prison is twenty-three feet in length, and about twenty feet in breadth: the walls are of hewn stone, like those of the rest of the castle. The roof is arched with stone, and supported by one round pillar, nine feet in circumference. Here is an aperture for the admission of air, nearly three feet square, next the room, but gradually terminating on the outside in a narrow point, and arched all the way with stone, so as to render any escape impossible. The only ray of light that the prisoners could enjoy in this gloomy vault appears to have been through the iron grate in the door at the top of the steps, by the aid of which feeble glimmering, some of those unhappy persons, in ancient times, have endeavoured to beguile the Dungeon. * The rich tracery of this window was demolished by a thunder-storm, on the 10th of J une, 1806.- Beawt. of England and Wales. | | | | º º º - -- - º THE county of York. 399 tedious hours of confinement, by carving rude figures on the wall, among which CHAP. XI. are those of two men in the dress of the days of Queen Elizabeth. . In a part of these ruins are the remains of a secret cell, or hiding-place, formed in the middle of the wall. This curious recess is three feet four inches high, two feet eight inches wide, and seems to have been above twenty feet in length. At the farthest end is a stone seat, where two persons might sit; but there does not appear to have been any contrivance for the admission of air or light. This circumstance, with the apparent difficulty of escape, if an enemy were in possession of the castle, seems to render it doubtful whether this dismal recess were originally designed for a last retreat, in cases of danger, or for a place of confinement. In one part of the castle-yard is the entrance of an arched subterraneous passage, leading into the moat. This castle possessed extraordinary advantages from nature, and these appear to have been improved by every means that the art of our forefathers could devise: placed on a lofty and precipitous eminence, projecting into the river, and commanding the two bridges, it must have been very difficult to reduce by the ancient mode of warfare, before the invention, of artillery. From viewing these mouldering remains of pride and dominion, the eye is relieved, and the mind cheered, by the romantic beauties of the adjacent vale, a delicious composition of enclosures, woods, and rocks,—at the bottom of which a fine river takes its bending course, shaded in many places with hanging wood. On one side, the houses and trees range along the edge of the precipice, with part of the town, the church, the bridge, and Coghill hall; on the other side, Belmont, with its wood and enclosures, the more elevated situation of Bilton hall, with a distant view of Brimham rocks, complete this delightful scene. . . . . . . The seal of the honour of Knaresborough represents a castle, under which, on a scroll, are four letters, E. R.: Q. R. Over the castle, on a wreath, is a dexter hand in armour, couped at the wrist, holding a branch of oak; the date 1611.” The church, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, was given, (most probably by Henry I.) with all its lands, tithes, and chapels, to the priory of Nostel, about the year 1114. It appears afterwards to have become the property of Archbishop Walter Grey, who, in the year 1230, united the same to the prebend of Bickhill, Seal. Church. in the cathedral of York. This impropriation was made in lieu of an estate in York, granted by the dean and chapter to the said archbishop. The church consists of a nave, chancel, and north aisle, with a tower in the centre. The latter is founded on four large pillars, each composed of clusters of * The crest is the same as that borne by the ancient family of Rodes, one of whom might then be receiver of the crown rents here; and, besides putting his erest on the seal, might also add the initials : of his name and office—Edward Bodes, Questor Regis. 400 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Monu- mentS. **** cylinders, supporting four very beautiful arches, much superior to those in the nave of the church, which seem to have been a work of later date. Here is a musical peal of eight bells; the tenor weighs twenty hundred weight, whereon is inscribed, “Procul este profani.-The Rev. Thomas Collins, vicar; John Inman, and James Young, churchwardens.” These bells were hung in the year 1774; at which time several pieces of half-burnt wood were taken out of the wall of the steeple, sup- posed to have been the ends of timber that had been destroyed by fire. The only account we have of any such accident here, was in the year 1318, when the Seots carried fire and sword through all these northern parts, and this town, with the church, was involved in one general conflagration. - - The organ, procured by a general subscription, was built by Mr. John Donaldson, of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, and first used in divine service on Sunday, April 20, 1788. \ .. The screen that separates the choir from the body of the church, is pierced with the figures of the lighted torch, the rose, and trefoil; each having a symbolical allusion to some particular part of an ancient worship. - On the north side of the choir is a chapel, belonging to the Slingsby family, wherein are several monuments. \ . On an altar tomb are placed fine whole-length figures of Sir Francis Slingsby and his lady, the only sister of Thomas and Henry, earls of Northumberland. The knight is in complete armour, his head resting on his helmet. A small frill en- circles the upper part of his neck, his beard flowing gracefully in ringlets over his breast. On his left side is his sword, and on his right, at some distance, lies his dagger; his hands are elevated, and at his feet is a lion statant. The lady is habited in a long robe, with folding plaits, down to the feet; the sleeves come close to the wrists, round which, and her neck, is a small frill; her head rests on a pillow ; her hair combed back, close under the cap, which is a plain one, without border or lace. On the right side, upon the skirt of her robe, are the arms of Percy and Brabant, two quarterings appearing complete, the other two partly hid in the folds of the drapery; one foot rests against a crescent, as the other formerly did against a lion statant; both crests of the Percys, Sir Francis died the 14th of August, 1600, aged seventy-eight. - . There is a whole-length marble figure of Sir William Slingsby, who is represented standing in a niche, in an easy attitude: his head reclines a little on one hand, the elbow resting on the guard of his sword; the other hand hangs down, and holds a shield, with the family arms; on his head is a high-crowned hat; his hair and beard finely curled; he has on a buff jacket, boots, and spurs; the body has a gentle and most elegant reclination, and claims a place amongst the best sculptures in our churches. He was born at Knaresborough, January 29, 1562, and died in | | * º - - - THE COUNTY OF YORK. - 401 August, 1642. As a soldier, a courtier, and a magistrate, he distinguished himself CHAP. XI. under four princes. - Under a large slab of black marble, brought from the priory, six feet two inches long, by four feet six inches broad, and six inches thick, is interred Sir Henry Slingsby, who was beheaded June 8, 1658. On the south side of the choir is a chapel, formerly belonging to the Plumptons, of Plumpton; though no traces now remain here of that ancient family, except their arms, in stained glass, in the window. On the south side of the communion-table, in the wall of the church, is the piscina, and near that a seat, where the officiating priests sat, at intervals, during the solemnity of high mass. - In Windsor lane is the Independent chapel, first founded by Lady Hewley, relict of Sir John Hewley, of Bell hall, near York. The present edifice was erected by subscription, in 1778. In Gracious street is a Quakers’ meeting-house, erected in 1701. The Wesleyan Methodists have a chapel here, erected in 1815, and there is a chapel for the Catholics. - - On the south-east side of the church-yard is a free-school, founded and endowed by the Rev. R. Chaloner, a native of Goldsborough, and rector of Amersham, Buckinghamshire, in 1616. There is an excellent charity school in the High street, endowed by T. Richardson, Esq. in 1765, with an estate of £45, per annum. A national school was erected in 1814 in the castle-yard. A sessions-house was rebuilt here in 1768; it is a plain edifice. The town was first lighted with gas in 1824; the works are on the north bank of the river, and have an elegant appearance. - There are two bridges across the Nidd ; one called the High bridge, repaired- and enlarged in 1773, and the Low bridge, in 1779. An ancient mansion, formerly belonging to the Byrnard family, was situate at the end of High street; near it was a cross, which has been removed some years. - - In the long walk, close by the river Nidd, is the celebrated Dropping well. This spring rises at the foot of a limestone rock, about forty yards from the bank of the river; and after running about twenty yards, it divides, and spreads itself over the top of the rock; from whence it trickles down very fast into a channel, hollowed for the purpose, every drop creating a musical kind of tinkling, owing, probably, to the concavity of the rock, which bending in a circular projection from the bottom to the top, its brow overhangs about five yards. This rock, which is about ten yards high, sixteen long, and from ten to sixteen broad, about the year 1704, started from the common bank, and left a chasm between them, from a yard and a half to VOL. III. 5 K # Chapels. Free- School. Sessions- house. Bridges. tº Dropping - well. 402 HISTORY OF three yards wide, over which chasm the water passes by an aqueduct, formed for the purpose.* - - & From the Dropping well, the walk extends along the river side to the High bridge; and, as the river meanders very much, every ten or twenty yards it presents a new point of view; which, though composed of the same objects, is surprisingly diversified and variegated. . Returning from the Dropping well, repassing the bridge on the right, sculptured out of the cliffs is St. Robert's chapel. On one side of the entrance, under the shade of spreading and pendent ivy, is the figure of a knight, cut in the rock, in the act of drawing his sword to defend the place from the violence of rude intruders. The chapel is elegantly hollowed out-of the solid rock, its roof is groined, and the altar beautifully adorned with Gothic ornaments; behind the altar is a large niche, where formerly stood an image; and on each side is a place for holy water; here are also the figures of three heads, designed, as is supposed, for an emblematical allusion to the order of the monks of the once neighbouring priory, by some of whom they were probably cut; the order was styled Sanctae Trinitatis. At some distance is another head, said to represent that of John the Baptist, to whom this chapel is supposed to have been dedicated. In the floor is a 'cavity, where formerly some ancient relic was deposited. This chapel is ten feet six inches long, nine feet wide, and seven feet six inches high.-F - - Near this place are several dwellings, scooped out of the rock, that are at present, and have been inhabited by families from time immemorial; some consisting of several apartments, accommodated with chimneys, windows, and other con- veniences, fashioned out of the rock with great ingenuity. About half a mile from St. Robert's chapel is the site of a priory founded by Richard Plantagenet, second son of King John, earl of Cornwall, and king of the Romans, about the year 1257, for a society of friars, of the order of the Holy Trinity, for the redemption of captives: they wore white robes, with a red and blue BOOK WI. St. Ro- bert’s . chapel. Priory. * This water abounds with fine particles of a nitrous earth, which it deposits only when in a languid motion, and leaves its incrustations on the leaves, moss, &c., that it meets with in tinkling so slowly through the cavities of the rock. The spring is supposed to send forth twenty gallons in a minute. Here are also seen pieces of moss, birds' nests, with their eggs, and a variety of other articles, some of . them very curious; which have been incrusted or petrified by the water. Tradition tells us that near this rock the famous Yorkshire Sybil, Mother Shipton, was born, about the year 1488. + St. Robert, the reputed founder of this chapel, was the son of Tooke Flower, mayor of York in the reign of Richard the First; being remarkable, from his youth, for learning and piety; and, after having spent some years in the monasteries of Whitby and Fountains, he was made abbot of Newminster, in Northumberland, which dignity he soon after relinquished, and retired to a solitary hermitage amongst the rocks at Knaresborough. |- ſoºſiºſſarº， №ssoſ， ſuoiuſ ſa pºtisſanaeſtopnost, ，： ， ， ,|- - |- |-|-№s cºſtº：！ |- |-|-|- |-|-|--|-|- |-|- |-|- |-ºtºonaſtaen &quaerer |-|- THE COUNTY OF YORK. 403 cross upon their breasts; their revenues were divided into three parts, viz. one for their own support, a second to relieve the poor, and a third part to redeem such christian captives as were or should be taken by the infidels. On this house were conferred all the possessions of St. Robert and his successor Ivo, as appears by a charter of the fifth of Edward II., which confirms the donation made by the earl of Cornwall to the brethren of the Holy Trinity, at Knaresborough. - This house was endowed at the dissolution, according to Dugdale, with £30. 10s, 11d. per annum. - The site, with all its dependencies, was granted in the seventh year of Edward VI. to Francis, earl of Shrewsbury; soon after which it became the property of the CHAP. xi. Slingsbys, in which family it has ever since remained, Sir Thomas Slingsby, Bart, being the present owner. The chapel, priory, and other buildings, are now entirely demolished. Leaving the priory, and following the course of the river, the first object de- serving notice is Grimbald bridge, near which is St. Robert's cave, an hermitage; the interior part, formed out of the rock, yet remains, but so filled with rubbish as to render the entrance rather difficult; the roof is covered with rude carvings of crosses, initials of names, &c. At the farthest part of the cave is a small recess, which seems to have served for a pantry; the places where the shelves have been fixed are yet evident. Above the entrance, on the front of the rock, are the remains of an upper apartment, the ascent to which was by a small flight of steps, cut in the rock, part of which are yet discernible on that side of the rock next the bridge. The front of this dreary mansion, which extended some yards farther towards the river, is entirely demolished. - . This cave was also remarkable for a circumstance that led to the discovery of the long-concealed murder of Daniel Clark, in 1745; in consequence of which Eugene Aram, the criminal, was brought to justice, after making a most ingenious defence, worthy of a better cause. f - On the opposite bank of the river stands a high rock, called Grimbald crag ; from the top of which is a fine prospect of the subjacent vale, the river, Birkham wood, and the lofty summit of Almias cliff. - * Among the celebrated natives of Knaresborough, John Metcalf, born in the year 1717, deserves particular notice. He lost his sight when only four years old. Being instructed to play on the violin, he afterwards attended as a musician at St. Ro- bert’s CaV €. * Grimbald Crag. John Met- calf. the Queen's Head, High Harrogate, for many years, and was the first person who set up a wheel-carriage for the conveyance of company to and from the places of public resort in that neighbourhood. In the year 1745 he engaged to serve as musician in Colonel Thornton's volunteers, and was taken prisoner at the battle of Falkirk. Being soon released, he returned to Knaresborough, and commenced 404 History of BOOK WI. Arkendale. High Har- rogate and Bilton. common carrier betwixt that town and York, and often served as a guide in intricate roads, over the forest, during the night, or when the paths were covered with snow; nor was any person more eager in the chase, which he would follow, either on foot or on horseback, with the greatest avidity. Strange as this may appear to those who can see, the employment he followed for more than forty years is still more extraordinary, and one of the last to which we should suppose a blind man would ever turn his attention—that of projecting and contracting for the making of high roads, building bridges, houses, &c. With no other assistance than a long staff in his hand, he would ascend the precipice, explore the valley, and investigate the extent of each, its form and situation. He died in 1810, aged ninety-four years. ſ - - - & The chapelry of Arkendale has a population of two hundred and eighty-five persons. The church is a perpetual curacy in the diocese of Chester, valued in the parliamentary return at £81; patron, the vicar. The chapel is dedicated to St. Bartholomew. - * High Harrogate and Bilton has a population amounting to one thousand nine hundred and thirty-four souls. - * - sº To this place, during the summer months, the nobility and gentry resort, from all parts of Great Britain and Ireland, to drink the waters for which Harrogate is so Waters. deservedly celebrated ; nor can any part of Britain boast a more healthy situation, or a purer air. a These medicinal waters are of two sorts, the chalybeate and the sulphur; of the former there are two springs at High Harrogate; the most ancient of which is situate opposite the Granby inn, and is called the Old Spa. It was discovered by Captain William Slingsby, in the year 1571, who made several trials of it, and, preferring it to the Saviniere, in Germany, ordered it to be enclosed and taken care of: after which it was much resorted to. Dr. Bright wrote the first treatise on its virtues and uses; Dr. Dean, in 1626; Dr. Stanhope, in 1631; Dr. French, in 1651; Dr. Neale, in 1656; and Dr. Simpson, in 1668. Dr. George Neale, who attended this place about the time of the above date, observes, they were in danger of losing the spring, by digging too deep (when they made the terrace) on the west and north-west sides.* The terrace was sixty yards square, and enclosed the well in the middle of the area. Upon the top was a firm and dry walk, affording a view of a large extent of country. Here the company amused themselves during the intervals of drinking * Dr. Monro, speaking of this spring, esays, “The water of the old spa strikes a light red purple, when six drops of tincture of galls are mixed with a glassful of it. As it sprung from the earth it was twelve grains in a pint lighter than common water. Evaporated, a galloń yielded at one time a scruple, and at another only eight grains, of which above one half was earth.” º 5. | | ſ º | | | º THE COUNTY OF YORK. 405 the water; and, to prevent any one from claiming the land enclosed by these walls, the following inscription was cut on a stone, on the west side of the well, near which it still lies, though but little of the terrace now remains:— “All this ground within these walkes belonges to the forist of Knaresborovgh : 1656. John Stevenson.” - - The dome that now encloses this spring was built in the year 1786, at the expense g of Alexander Lord Loughborough, about which time his lordship ordered the plantation to be laid out on his estate here, consisting of oak, ash, fir, sycamore, beech, hornbeam, American chestnut, mountain ash, poplar, &c., which now afford a very agreeable shade to a walk eight feet wide and two miles long. It is cer- tainly a great improvement to Harrogate, which Dr. Smollett (about fifty years ago) described * as a “wild common, bare and bleak, without tree or shrub, or the least signs of cultivation.” This estate, consisting of one hundred and fifty-six acres, was purchased several years ago by J. Jaques, M.D. At the south end of the common is the Tewit Well. This also contains a chaly- beate water, which differs very little from the former.f. The sulphur wells are situate at Low Harrogate, each enclosed in a building of stone. This water was not known till many years after the discovery of the steel waters at High Harrogate, and, when known, was for a long time supposed either too offensive or too dangerous to be taken internally; and therefore, at first, only used as a wash in diseases of the skin: but time and experience have proved its virtues, and, before the year 1700, it was used both externally and internally, by all ranks of people, with amazing success, in scorbutic and other diseases. Dr. Monro, in treating of these sulphur waters, observes, that, in small quantities, they are good alteratives, and, when drunk in large quantities, are strongly purgative; they have been much used, and found extremely serviceable in cutaneous dis- orders and scrofulous cases, and amongst the best remedies for destroying and evacuating worms and their nidus, and are extremely useful where the digestion has been bad, and the bowels and intestines full of viscid slimy matter; they also assist in removing various chronic obstructions. Low Harrogate, which is the principal, if not the exclusive seat of the sulphur wells, possesses also another valuable spring, discovered in 1783, called the Crescent water, which contains the principal ingredients of the sulphur water, in a weaker degree, with the addition of chalybeate. It is raised by a pump, over which * Wide Humphrey Clinker. t Of the water of this well, when evaporated, a gallon yielded at one time thirteen grains, at another nineteen grains of sediment, of which three-fifths was a calcareous earth; the other two-fifths, set to crystallize, projected crystals of a calcareous glauber salt. Both these waters thix smooth with milk, CHAP. XI. but curdle soap. Dr. Hunter, of Leeds, has recently published an interesting treatise on the mineral waters of Harrogate. WOL. III, 5 L Tewit Well. Sulphur wells. 406 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Chelten- ham spring. stands a handsome cupola, in the garden of the Crescent, and is the property of Mr. Linforth. * The spring next in reputation, though of recent discovery, is the Cheltenham water, which rises in the ground of Mr. Oddy, for the use of which the drinkers pay half-a-crown a-week.” This water is exhilarating and restorative, and, as it contains salt, generally acts as a gentle purgative. Of the Cheltenham water it is usual to drink pretty copiously, before breakfast, and also in the middle of the day. Very near this, and in the same garden, is a spring of stronger chalybeate, but nearly destitute of salt. For some years after the first discovery of these medicinal springs, the company who resorted here found great inconvenience for want of proper accommodation; a particular instance of which is related concerning the duchess of Buckingham, (daughter of Thomas Lord Fairfax, the parliament's general,) who came here for relief in a severe asthma ; and, finding the accommodations so very indifferent, her ladyship caused a tent to be pitched near the old spa, where she spent some hours every day drinking the chalybeate water at proper intervals, and was so happy as to receive a complete cure. In the year 1687 the first inn, now called the Queen's Head, was built; before which time the water drinkers lodged in the cottages and farm houses near the place. The company increasing every year, gave encouragement to the inhabitants to increase their accommodations; and before the year 1700 there were three good inns at High Harrogate. After this time, the place was visited by many, for the sake of pleasure and dissipation, as well as for the benefit of their health; and since the year 1740 such numbers of the nobility and gentry have annually resorted here, that it is become one of the principal watering places in the north of England. In the year 1743 a subscription was begun for erecting a chapel here; the prin- Chapel. * The following table shows the contents of a wine gallon of each of the Harrogate waters:— | Cubic inches. Grains - **s * Gºs © *1 * | *-* - || "O O & |''< ... [*- P-> e g g C - || @ Names of the # 3 #| 2 |3 § 3 ; .# 3|###2 *:::) , . Water S, #: 3 & # 3 |g all 3; ##|##|##|##|: 5; #|É: 2. Fº -> "c 3 : ºn to ## 3.5|: 5, 3: 3 5, 3.8 |#5, #5 C/2 to : ‘à is ºn # * # * :=|E #####|É*|#### CD & = |> |: 5 $ Ö E Š Cº. 8 an Sulphur well tº e º 'º 1,0064 8 7 19 615,5 13 91 18,5 5,5 10,5 Crescent well. ... 1,002 || 20,8 13,6|| 137 45 3,1 2 || 8 Tewit well. . •...],00017 16 5 2,5 Old spa . . ......'I,0001415,75|| 4,25 2 8 3,97 Cheltenham spa. | 1,0075 6,32 º 434 || 30 13 || 3 - 9.37 | New chalybeate...' 1,0012 | 16,5 || 4,2 2,5 10,5 The Tewit well and the Cheltenham spa each contain a portion of the sulphate of lime, the former 4 and the latter 9. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 407 cipal subscriber was Lady Elizabeth Hastings, whose laudable example was fol- lowed by the contributions of the inhabitants here and in the neighbourhood, and by many of the company resorting to the place. A sufficient sum being raised, the chapel was soon after completed, dedicated to St. John, and consecrated in the year 1749. The vicar of Knaresborough is patron. By a general agreement amongst the inhabitants, a quantity of land was enclosed upon the forest, and the rents applied to the maintenance of the minister, which he received till the general enclosure, when the land was resumed by the crown, and thirty pounds per annum assigned to the minister in lieu thereof. - Nearly opposite this chapel of ease is a Wesleyan Methodist chapel, situate in Paradise row. There is also an Independent chapel adjoining the Hope hotel; and a new and more commodious chapel, intended for this congregation, was re- cently erected near the Dragon at High Harrogate. A small chapel has also been erected near Low Harrogate, by the Independents. The situation of High Harrogate is exceedingly pleasant, and commands a most extensive prospect of the distant country, finely varied by towns, villages, fields, and woods. The cathedral of York is seen distinctly, at the distance of twenty miles, and the view is terminated by the mountains of Craven on the west, Hambleton hills, and the Yorkshire wolds on the east. , Bilton hall is the seat of H. Hunter, Esq. Woodland cottage (the residence of John Jaques, M.D.) was originally built by Daniel Lascelles, Esq. about the year 1771. Alexander Lord Loughborough, having purchased the estate some years after, made considerable additions to this house, raised a very extensive plantation; and also built the house, now the resi- dence of John Jaques, M.D., who purchased the estate of his lordship's successor, the present earl of Rosslyn. At Bachelors' gardens is a free-school for poor girls within the township, founded by Richard Taylor, in 1785, who endowed it with land and tenements, which are vested in six trustees, but all in the hands of the master of the school. The township of Brearton has a population of two hundred and twenty-six persons. Scriven with Tentergate is a considerable township; it has a population of one thousand three hundred and seventy-three persons. Thomas Turner Slingsby, Bart. Beach Hill Manor is a small township in St. Peter's liberty. Aldborough” is a small borough and parish town, one mile east of Boroughbridge, Scriven park is the seat of Sir CHAP. XI. Chapels. Seats. Bachelors’ gardens. Brearton. Scriven with Ten- tergate. * The entire parish has a population of seven hundred and thirty-five inhabitants. Part of it is in the upper division of Claro wapentake. Beach Hill Manor. Ald- borough. 408 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. the number of houses being one hundred and nine, and of inhabitants four hundred and eighty-four. This was the Iseur of the Britons, and the Isurium of the Romans,” of which scarcely a vestige of the former grandeur remains; and this once celebrated city, which has, ever since the days of Leland, arrested the attention and engaged the particular notice of British antiquaries, is now sunk into a small village, and in danger of losing the remains of its ancient grandeur. Roman coins are frequently dug up, chiefly of Constantine and Carausius, Maximian, Dioclesian, Valerian, Severus, Pertinax, and also of Faustina and Julia. In 766 it was attacked with great fury by the Danes, who murdered a great part of the inhabitants, and burnt the city to the ground. Though we have no account from history of its origin, yet we have incontestible evidence of its great antiquity; and that it was the metropolis of the Brigantes is a fact that can never be called in question. Many British princes resided here; and as it flourished many ages prior to York, it is probable that it was the seat of government. Venutius, who opposed the brave Caractacus, resided here in the year 50. The brave Agricola, whose wisdom beamed a double lustre on triumphant Rome, after having subdued the Brigantes about the year 70, resided at York, and made it his head-quarters, which shews that Isurium had sunk in the estimation of the Romans, while York was rising into eminence. The most fatal blow given to this once celebrated city was the turning of the road which went through it, by removing the bridge over the Ure to where it now stands at Boroughbridge, which happened during the reign of the Conqueror. In a house in this village may be seen a Roman pavement, in great preser- vation, about eighteen inches below the surface, first discovered in 1731; and in the same room are many other ancient remains, particularly a votive stone found in 1776, coins, &c. Aldborough sends two members to parliament, the first return of which was in 1542. The right of voting is in all the inhabitants paying scot and lot.; Roman pavement. Borough. * In the time of the Romans it was defended by a strong wall, a small part of which is still visible, even though in Leland's time the ruins were slender, who observes, “Vestigia quaedam, sed tenuaria.” + Higden’s Polychron. f Jonathan Hartop died here in 1791, aged one hundred and thirty-eight. His father and mother died of the plague in their house in the Minories, in 1666; and he perfectly well recollected the great fire of London. He was short in stature, had been married five times, and left seven children, twenty- six grandchildren, seventy-four great-grandchildren, and one hundred and forty great-great-grand- children. He could read to the last without spectacles, and play at cribbage with the most perfect recollection. On Christmas-day, 1789, he walked nine miles to dine with one of his great-grand- children. He remembered Charles II., and once travelled from London to York with the facetious Killigrew. He ate but little, and his only beverage was milk. He enjoyed an uninterrupted flow of spirits. The third wife of this very extraordinary man was an illegitimate daughter of Oliver Cromwell, who gave with her a portion amounting to about £500. He possessed a fine portrait of Cromwell, THE COUNTY OF YORK. - 409 The benefice is a vicarage in the diocese of Chester; value, in the Liber regis, £9. 19s. 5d. Patrons, the dean and chapter of York. The church is an ancient structure, consisting of a nave and aisles, chancel, and tower at the west end. On the outside of the wall of the vestry is a figure of about two feet and a half in length, which seems to be that of Mercury, as part of the caduceus and the alae are yet perceptible. In the church-yard is a grave-stone, in which is cut in relievo the half-length figure of a woman in a Saxon habit, and in the attitude of prayer. There is a considerable quantity of stained glass in this church, consisting of arms and quarterings of the Newcastle family, full-length figures of the pro- phets, &c. A neat Wesleyan chapel has recently been erected. Boroughbridge, on the great North-road, six miles from Ripon, and seventeen from York, is a market and borough town, containing one hundred and fifty-eight houses, and eight hundred and sixty inhabitants. The market is held on Satur- day, and there are fairs on April 27, 28, June 22, and October 23, 24. The benefice, a perpetual curacy in the diocese of Chester, is valued in the parliamentary returns at £48. 16s. 8d. It is in the patronage of the vicar of Ald- borough. The church is a small edifice, with a tower at the west end. In the market-place is a lofty cross, composed of eight columns united with a foliaged capital. Boroughbridge hall is the seat of Mr. Lawson. - - - This place is remarkable for those monuments called the Devil's Arrows, but whether Roman or British is uncertain. “Here was, in the British times,” says Dr. Stukely, “the great Panegyre of the Druids, the Midsummer meeting of all the country round, to celebrate the great quarterly sacrifice ; accompanied with sports, games, races, and all kinds of exercises, with universal festivity. This was like the Panathenaean, the Olympian, Nemaean meetings and games among the Grecians. These obelisks were as the Metae of the races; the remembrance hereof is transmitted in the great fair held here on St. Barnabas'-day.” In Leland's time there were four, but in the seventeenth century one of them was pulled down; the remaining ones are placed at unequal distances from each other. Richard Frank, a singular traveller, and famous peripatetic angler, in his tour to the northern parts of Scotland to enjoy his favourite amusement, which he published in 1694, says that he saw near Boroughbridge seven of these stones; in which he must have been mistaken, as it is not likely that they have increased since the days of Leland. Evident marks of the chisel appear below the surface of the earth. by Cooper, for which a Mr. Holland offered £300, but was refused. Mr. Hartop lent the great Milton CHAP.XI. Church. Borough- bridge. Church. Devil’s Arrows. £50 soon after the Restoration, which the bard returned him with honour, though not without much difficulty, as his circumstances were very low. Mr. Hartop would have declined receiving it, but the pride of the poet was equal to his genius, and he sent the money with an angry letter, which was found among the curious possessions of this venerable old man. WOL. III. e - 5 M 410 k HISTORY OF BOOK WI. They are composed of the common coarse rag-stone or mill-grit: a large rock of this stone, from which probably these obelisks were taken, is at Plumpton, near Knaresborough. Dr. Stillingfleet considers them as British deities; Leland, Cam- den, and Drake suppose them to have been the work of the Romans, and erected by that people as trophies to commemorate some important victory. The nor- thern obelisk is eighteen feet high, and is supposed to weigh nearly thirty-six tons; the centre obelisk is one hundred and ninety-nine feet distant from the first, twenty- two feet six inches high, and is supposed to weigh thirty tons; the south obelisk is three hundred and sixty feet distant from the last, is twenty-two feet four inches high, and is supposed to weigh thirty tons. - Near this place, in 1322, that unfortunate prince, Thomas, earl of Lancaster, with some of the nobility, disgusted with the royal favourites, the Spencers, made stand against the forces of his nephew, Edward II. but was taken by Sir An- drew de Harcla, who, being insensible to his entreaties and solicitations, after making him suffer every possible indignity that cruelty could suggest, mounted him on a sorry horse, and brought him before the king, who ordered, without any form of trial, his head to be struck off on an eminence near Pontefract. One of his partisans, the powerful John de Bohun, earl of Hereford, in passing over the bridge then made of wood, was run through with a spear by a soldier, cowardly placed beneath for that execrable purpose. It sends two members to parliament, a privilege it derived from Queen Mary, in 1559. The right of voting is in the burgage holders, about seventy-four in number. gº * , Low Dunsforth * has a population of one hundred and fifteen persons. It is a small chapelry, valued in the parliamentary return at £35. 10s. Patron, the vicar of the parish. Upper Dunsforth, f with Branton Green (population one hundred and fifty-six), Humberton and Milbyi (population one hundred and forty-three), Minskip (population two hundred and forty-three), and Rockliffe (population two hundred and forty-eight), are the remaining townships in this parish. - The parish of BURton LEONARD (partly in the liberty of St. Peter) is five miles from Boroughbridge. The population amounts to five hundred and eighteen per- SO/IS. The benefice is a vicarage, in the diocese of Chester, valued in the parliamentary return at £73. 10s. : patron, the dean and chapter of York. The church, dedicated to St. Helen, is a neat and spacious structure. º The parish of CoPGROVE is small, with a population of eighty-seven persons. It is situate four miles from Knaresborough. The benefice is a rectory, in the diocese. Low Duns- forth. Upper Dunsforth. Branton Green. Humber- ton. Milby. Minskip. Rockliffe. Burton Leonard. Copgrove. * In the upper division of Claro wapentake. . + In the upper division of Claro wapentakes. f Partly in Kirkbyhill parish, Halikeld wapentake. * THE COUNTY OF YORK. 411 of Chester, valued in the parliamentary return at £80. It is in the patronage of T. Duncombe, Esq. - - Copgrove hall is the seat of T. Duncombe, Esq. - The parish town of FARNHAM* is two miles and a half from Knaresborough, and has a population of one hundred and forty-one persons. The church is a perpetual curacy, in the diocese of Chester, valued in the par- liamentary return at £32. : patrons, the heirs of the late Col. Harvey and James Collins, Esq. - - •4 - Scotton is a small township, with a population of two hundred and ninety-seven persons. Here are the remains of a mansion formerly belonging to the Percys. There is a burying ground for Quakers, first used in 1670. i The township of Ferensby has a population of one hundred and ten persons. FEwsTON+ is a large parish, seven miles north of Otley, the town containing six hundred and ten inhabitants. . The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary return at £113; it is in the patronage of the king. The church, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, is a tolerabl structure of pointed architecture. - Blubberhouses (population one hundred and twenty-six), Clifton with Norwood (population four hundred and twenty), and Great Timble (population two hundred and thirty-three), require no further notice. The township of Thurcross has a population of six hundred persons. Here is a chapel of ease to Fewston. The parish town of HAMPSThwaite, pleasantly situate on the southern bank of the Nidd, has a population of four hundred and ninety persons. - The benefice is a vicarage, valued at £13.6s. 8d.: patron, Mr. Shann. The church, dedicated to St.Thomas à Becket, is a good edifice of stone, having a nave and chancel, with a tower at the west end. Birstwith has a population of six hundred and twenty-one persons. Mrs. Alice Shepherd, by will, dated June 14, 1806, directed that £1,000 stock, navy five per cents. be transferred, after her death, to trustees therein named, the interest of which to be paid to the minister and churchwardens of Pateleybridge, for the purpose of educating and clothing twenty poor children of the chapelry of Pateleybridge, by the master of Raikes School. Dr. William Craven, by in- denture, dated August 24, 1812, gave £800 navy five per cent, stock to the same, for the like purpose, and repairing the school. A new school-house was built in 1816, for which purpose the archbishop of York granted a piece of ground upon * The entire parish of Farnham has a population of five hundred and forty-eight inhabitants. + The entire parish has a population of one thousand nine hundred and eighty-nine inhabitants- # The entire parish has two thousand seven hundred and fifty inhabitants. CHAP. XI. Farnham. Scotton. Ferensby. Fewston. Blubber- houses. Clifton. Norwood.. Great Timble. Thurcross. Hampsth- waite. 412 - HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Fellis- cliffe. Men with. Darley. Thorn- waite. Padside. Haverah Park. & Kirkby Malzeard. Castle. the waste. The master's salary, who also teaches a Sunday school, is twenty-eight guineas, and about thirty guineas is expended in clothing. - The township of Felliscliffe has three hundred and eighty-two inhabitants. Menwith with Darley has a population of six hundred and forty-eight persons. At Menwith hill is a school, called Hookstone's school, founded in 1748 by Francis Day, Esq. and endowed by him with lands at Hampsthwaite (£18), Threshfield and Skirethornes (£22), and Starbottom, £7 per annum. The school premises consist of a school-room and turf house, erected upon the waste, with about half an acre of land adjoining. The master's salary, out of rents, is £36 per annum, for which he teaches the poor of Menwith hill, Thornwaite-with-Padside, and Darley, likewise the tenants holding land under the relations of the founder. The chapelry of Thornwaite and Padside has a population of three hundred and nine persons. The chapel is a perpetual curacy under Hampsthwaite, value, according to parliamentary return, £68.5s. . - HAVERAH, or Heywra PARK is extra-parochial, with a population of eighty-seven persons. - : This park, formerly a royal chase, containing upwards of two thousand acres, now divided into farms, is the property of Sir William Ingilby, Bart. in whose family it has been for many ages. : - At the west end of this ancient enclosure, situate on the point of a hill, are the remains of a strong tower, with suitable out-works; the foundations and part of the gateway only remaining. Its dimensions appear to have been an exact square, each side measuring fifty feet; the ditch, in some places, is twenty-four feet deep and five hundred feet in circumference. By whom the park was enclosed, or the tower erected, is not known; it is commonly called John of Gaunt's castle, and, perhaps, was erected by that prince, when lord of Knaresborough, about the year 1371. - - KIRKBY MALZEARD,” in the liberty of St. Peter, four miles from Masham, is a neat parish town, with a population of six hundred and eighty-two persons. A market is held here on Wednesday, and fairs on Whit-Monday and October 2. The benefice is a vicarage, not in charge; it is in the patronage of Trinity college, Cambridge. Here the famous family of the Mowbrays had a castle, which was besieged in the twentieth year of Henry II. by Henry, the elect bishop of Lincoln. Roger de Mowbray then hastened to the king at Northampton, where he rendered up to him this castle and that at Thirsk, both of which were soon after made untenable and pulled down. ſ' - / - * The entire parish has four thousand two hundred and sixty-three inhabitants. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - º º - - THE COUNTY OF York. 413 Mr. Dickins, on enlarging his present mansion, and laying out his pleasure- grounds, dug up a great many ruins of this ancient castle; bases, shafts, capitals, &c. belonging to which, are now to be seen grotesquely placed in various parts of the grounds. This castle was situated on an eminence, with a deep ditch on the north, and commanding most extensive prospects to the east and north-east, from which, no doubt, the castle of Thirsk was visible. - w John de Mowbray obtained a grant, in the thirty-fifth year of Edward I. to hold two fairs annually, and a market weekly, at Kirkby Malzeard. These fairs and market, after lying dormant we know not how long, have been revived since 1816. A school was founded here, about the year 1640, by one William Horseman, who endowed it with 50s. per annum; it has since received several small endowments, and the master's emolument now amounts to £7. 10s. per annum. - - Goydon-pot-hole, in this parish, is a large rock, into which the river Nidd enters, by an arch finely formed of beautifully white limestone, about nine feet high, and , the span twelve broad. With a lighted candle a person may walk two or three hundred yards into it with safety. The river, after entering here, runs under ground for about three miles. - Brimham rocks, in this parish, are a massive assemblage of rocks, spread in groups over a space of forty acres. The extraordinary position of the stones must have been occasioned by some violent convulsion of nature; but it is at the same time evident, that art has not been wanting to make their situation still more ex- traordinary. This seems to have been a chosen spot for the religious ceremonies of the Druids; here we find rock-idols, holy altars, and sacred passages for myste- rious purposes. The cannon rocks, which may be ranked amongst the most remarkable parts of this magnificent and rudely picturesque scenery, contain perforations, through which the wily priests probably conveyed sounds of awful import to the oracular idols, which, in times of paganism, stood upon their summits. There are here also a great number of tumuli spread over the ground, resembling those at Stonehenge, and some of the immense rocks oscilate upon a pivot like the Loggan stone of Cornwall. The estate is the property of the Grantley family, and in the year 1792, William Lord Grantley built a house and suitable offices in the ceñtre of these ancient and imperishable temples, for the accommodation of those who come to wonder and conjecture over this congregated mass of Druidical relics and natural phenomena. Cozenley (population five hundred and seventy-nine), Fountain's Earth, with the chapelry of Middlesmoor (population four hundred and forty-one), Gravelthorpe (population five hundred and twenty-seven), are inconsiderable townships. Hackfall, (the property of Miss Lawrance,) in the last mentioned township, is a sequestered and romantic spot, consisting of two deep dingles, covered on either WOL. III. - 5 N CHAP. XI. Fairs. Goydon- pot-hole. Brimham rocks. Cozenley. Fountain's Earth. Middles- II] OOI’. Gravel- thorpe. Hackfall. 414 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. side with a profusion of wood, except in such parts where the naked scars con- tribute to vary and improve the view; a small stream running through, is obstructed in various places by upright pieces of stone, and thus forms several artificial cas- cades. - - The buildings are pavilions, covered with seats, from the first of which is a view of the great fall, divided into two parts, and, as Day observes, “ rather steals than dashes down rocks richly clad with moss, and possesses a mildness and beauty pecu- liar to itself;” artificial ruins, a small octagon room, built of petrifactions, called Fisher's hall; a grotto, situate in front of a cascade which falls forty feet; a rustic temple, on the margin of a sheet of water, in the middle of which there was formerly a fountain throwing water to a great height: the whole is bounded by a noble amphitheatre of tall trees, which, although too formal for the scenery around, has a pleasing effect. The walks are laid out with great judgment and much taste, which, as you ascend, exhibit several views of Masham church and town, &c.; Mowbray point. Hartwith with Wins- ley. but the best views are from Fisher's hall, which commands the whole of the two dingles, where they fork from each other, with the bottom of each filled with the rapid river Ure, which here “boils, and foams, and thunders through.” The view is perfectly American, for nothing is seen from it but hanging woods, extensive scars, and water. From the hut, on the margin of the Ure, which winds rapidly at your feet, is seen a small cascade trickling down the hill, Fisher's hall, Mowbray castle, and, at a short distance, the Weeping rock. The climax of this magnificent scenery is reserved for Mowbray point,” on which stands an edifice, representing an ancient ruin. Here every object is to be seen that can impart to a landscape beauty, elegance, and sublimity, the sea alone excepted. In front are Hambleton hills, with the scar called, “The White Mare;” below which stands the town of Thirsk; Northallerton is seen to the right; York minster to the south-east, at a distance of thirty miles, relieved in the back ground by the wolds of the East riding ; and to the north-east the lofty mountain called Roseberry Topping presents itself, at a distance of five-and-forty miles. “Here,” says Mr. Gilpin, speaking of Hack- fall, “nature has wrought with her broadest pencil; the parts are ample; the composition perfectly correct; I scarcely remember anywhere an extensive view so full of beauties, and so free from faults, as that taken from Mowbray point. The vale of which this view is composed extends from York almost to the confines of Durham, and is certainly one of the noblest tracts of country of the kind in England.” Hartwith with Winsley chapelry is a large township, the population amounting, to six hundred and seventy-five. s * “On an eminence, not far distant,” says Pennant, “are to be seen the remains of Mowbray’s Castle hill, which are unquestionably Roman ; a square, defended on one side by the steep of the hill, on the other by a dyke and deep ditch on the outside. ” THE COUNTY OF YORK. 415 . ---. At Burntyates, in the township of Hartfield, is a free-school, founded in 1760 by rear-admiral Robert Long, which he endowed with a farm, called Flask farm, and the lands thereto belonging in the township of Hartwith with Winsley; also a mes- suage, called Flask house, and a close called Six acres, in the township of Clint. It has since received some legacies; and the valuable library of the late W. Moun- taine, Esq. F.R.S. was given to it in 1779. The government of the school is vested in trustees. The master occupies the school premises, estimated at £20 or £25 per annum. His salary for himself and wife, £70, and two guineas as librarian. Twenty-two boys and girls are in the school. Laverton has four hundred and thirty, and Stonebeck Down five hundred and sixty-eight inhabitants. - - At Gowthwaite hall, now a farm house, was born, in 1731, William Craven, D.D. and educated at St. John's college, Cambridge. He took his bachelor's degree in 1753, and was fourth wrangler, as well as chancellor's medallist. He succeeded to the Arabic professorship in 1770, and resigned in 1795. He was elected master of his college in 1789, and died in 1815. Dr. Craven published “Sermons on the Evidence of a Future State of Rewards and Punishments,” 8vo. and “The Jewish and Christian Dispensations compared,” 8vo.” Upper Stonebeck has a population of three hundred and sixty-one souls. At Middlesmoor is a chapel under Kirkby Malzeard, of which the vicar is patron; the present annual value about £140. ten poor boys of the townships of Stonebeck, upper and down, and Fountains-earth. He endowed it with land, which now lets for £18 per annum, which is paid to the master as his salary. Simon Horner, by indenture, dated 1809, granted £20 per annum, out of an estate at Stonebeck, to be paid to a schoolmaster at Middlesmoor, for teaching the poor children of Stonebeck; he afterwards built a school house, of which they have the use. ~~~~ T At Ramsgill, in the township of Stonebeck, was born, in 1704, Eugene Aram, who was tried and convicted at York, in 1759, for the murder of Daniel Clarke. On his trial he delivered a written defence, so admirable for its ingenuity, and so replete with erudition and antiquarian knowledge, that it astonished the whole court. Though he derived but little advantage from education, yet from the acuteness of his understanding, and his intensely studious disposition, he had acquired conside- rable knowledge of the Latin, Greek, Hebrew, Celtic and other languages, and had, besides, made great progress in the higher branches of mathematics, heraldry, antiquities, &c. LINDRIck is an extra-parochial hamlet, with a population of sixty-two persons. -- * Gent. Mag.—Whitaker's Craven. CHAP. XI. Burnt- yates. , Laverton. Stonebeck Down. Dr. Cra- Wen. Upper Stonebeck. In 1743, John Lazenby founded a school for Eugene A ram. Lindrick. 416 HISTORY OF Book VI. Great Ouseburn. Head of the Ouse. GREAT OUSEBURN parish, four miles from Boroughbridge, has a population of four hundred and thirty-seven persons. The benefice is a vicarage, in the diocese of Chester, valued in the Liber regis at £3, 10s.: patron, the king. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a plain edifice. Here stands a neat little pillar, which marks the head of the river Ouse. This celebrated head, whose waters would scarcely wet your shoe-soles, is a burlesque upon two noble rivers, the Ure and the Swale, by depriving them of their names, and usurping a dignity in favour of a dirty puddle. - Pannall. Church. The parish of PANNALL (anciently called Rosehurst), two miles and a half from Harrogate, is of considerable extent, having a population of one thousand three hundred and fourteen persons. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £5, 5s. : patron, the Rev. R. B. Hunter. - - The church, dedicated to St. Robert, of Knaresborough, is an ancient edifice. The nave was rebuilt in 1772. - The first minister that occurs is John Brown, one of the brethren of the house of St. Robert, of Knaresborough, 1348; and in the following year, the church was South Stainley. Clayton. Nidd. Newton hall. Staveley. given, by the earl of Cornwall, to the brethren of the said priory. The parish town of SouTH STAINLEY, three miles north of Ripley, contains a population (including Clayton) of two hundred and thirty-two persons. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, in the diocese of Chester, valued in the par- liamentary return at £61 : patrons, H. Reynard, Esq. and the heirs of the late Mrs. Gibson. NIDD, two miles from Ripley, is a small parish town with eighty-six inhabitants. The benefice is a vicarage, in the diocese of Chester, valued in the parliamentary return at £110: patron, the king. The church comprises a nave and chancel. Nidd hall is the seat of F. Trappes, Esq. Newton hall, a farm house in this parish, was formerly a seat of the ancient family of the Vavasours, a branch of which resided here, before the year 1570, and after the year 1610, as appears by the parish register. The situation is on a small eminence, commanding a fine view of the surrounding country. Over the front door is a shield of arms, containing those of Vavasour, Ingilby, and several others. The estate, consisting of upwards of four hundred and four acres of land, was lately purchased by Matthew Thackwray, of Harrogate, Esq. and is now, by purchase of the late Sir John Ingilby, the property of the present Sir William Amcotts Ingilby, Bart. - • STAVELEY is a small parish town, three miles from Boroughbridge, containing three hundred and thirty-one inhabitants. g The benefice is a rectory, in the diocese of Chester, valued in the Liber regis THE county of York. - 417 at £8, 17s. 7d. patron, the Rev. J. Hartley. The church is dedicated to All Saints. - - The parish town of ALLERTON MAULEVERER,” situate on the high road from Alerton Boroughbridge to Wetherby, has a population (including Hopperton) of two hundred and seventy-six persons. - • The benefice, a perpetual curacy, in the diocese of Chester, is valued in the parliamentary return at £28: patron, Lord Stourton. The church is dedicated to St. Martin. , . . - . The hall, the seat of Lord Stourton,t is a handsome edifice. It was built by his royal highness the late duke of York, and is situate on a gently rising ground, but the height of the park wall prevents it from appearing with advantage from the road. - : The park, which contains about four hundred acres of very rich land, is charmingly picturesque, presenting a great variety of hills, dales, and groves delightfully inter- spersed; and a beautiful lake contributes to ornament the scenery. On a lofty eminence, finely shaded with trees, is an octagonal tower, consisting of two rooms, the first, thirty-six feet by twenty; the second, twenty feet by fifteen. The entrance is by a double flight of steps, both of which, as well as the terrace round the building, are secured by iron palisades. From this commanding situation are seen, to the greatest advantage, the variegated landscapes of the park, together with extensive views of the surrounding country. - : - - At this place was a priory of Benedictines, founded by Richard Mauleverer, in the reign of Henry II., to which priory he gave the church of St. Martin, of this place, with one carucate of land, &c. At the dissolution its revenues were settled by Henry VIII. on King's college, Cambridge.; * Allerton Mauleverer was for many ages the seat of a family of that name, the founder of which was William Mauleverer, who came over with the Conqueror. His name is found in the list of gentlemen hung up for ages in Battle Abbey, and is in Grafton, Hollinshead, &c. He received Allerton as a reward for his services. Sir Thomas Mauleverer, about the twenty-first in succession, was created a baronet in 1640. He took up arms for the parliament during the civil wars of Charles I. and raised two regi- ments at his own expense, one of horse and the other of foot, which indicated a state of affluence. He was also governor of Ripon. His name is in the instrument for the execution of the king. The estate continued in the male line till 1720; it was then held by the female line till 1786, when Lord Galway sold it to the late duke of York. The duke, in 1789, sold it to Colonel Thornton for £110,000, who then gave it the name of Thornville Royal. In February, 1805, this superb mansion, pleasure ground, park, &c. together with the estate particularly annexed to them, were sold at Garraway's coffee-house to Lord Stourton for £163,800. . . + Charles Philip Stourton, Lord Stourton, born August 22, 1752, succeeded his father October 8, 1781, married, June 15, 1775, Mary, the second daughter and co-heiress of the late Lord Langdale. Heir apparent, William, son of the present lord. Creation, May 13, 1448. - - f Burton.—Dugdale. ry VOL. III. 5 O CHAP. XI. Maule- Werer. Hopper- ton. Hall. Priory. º 418 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Cow- thorpe. Oak. Goldsbo- rough. Ciareton. Coney- thorp. Flaxby. Hunsin- gore, Manor. The parish town of CowTHoRPE, situate four miles north of Wetherby, contains one hundred and twenty inhabitants. - The benefice, a rectory, valued in the parliamentary return at £111, is in the patronage of the Hon. Edward Petre. - The church appears to have been built by a Brian Roucliffe, and consecrated in 1458. In the choir, on a large flat stone, are the effigies, in brass, of a man and his wife bearing betwixt them the model of a church, and supposed, from the inscrip- tion, now scarcely legible, to be in memory of the founder and his wife. Cowthorpe is remarkable on account of an enormous tree, called the Cowthorpe Oak; the circumference of which, close by the ground, is sixty feet, and its principal limb (which is propped) eſtends forty-eight feet from the bole. This venerable oak is decaying fast, the trunk and several of the branches appearing to be completely rotten, except the bark: tradition speaks of its being in decay for many generations. The intermixture of foliage amongst the dead branches, show how sternly this giant struggles for life, and how reluctantly it surrenders to all conquering time. “Com- pared with this,” says Dr. Hunter, in Evelyn's Silva, “all other trees are children of the forest.” The leading branch fell, by a storm, in the year 1718; which, being measured with accuracy, was found to contain five tons and two feet of wood. Before this accidental mutilation, its branches are said to have extended their shade over half an acre of ground; thus constituting, in a single tree, almost a wood itself. GoLDSBoRough is a small parish town with one hundred and ninety-five inha- bitants, six miles north of Wetherby. The benefice is a rectory, in the diocese of Chester, valued in the Liber regis at £10. 1s. 0}d.: patron, the earl of Harewood. The hall is the seat of J. Starkey, Esq. - Clareton has fourteen inhabitants, Coneythorp one hundred and twelve inhabi- tants, and Flaxby has seventy-eight inhabitants. . At the last place is a school for boys and girls of the township, but by whom founded is not known. Lord Stourton, and the rector of Goldsborough, have always acted as trustees. It is endowed with a small estate at Norwood, in the parish of Fewston, which produces £15. 10s. per annum. _2 The parish town of HUNSINGORE, four miles from Wetherby, contains two hundred and thirty-seven inhabitants. The benefice is a vicarage in the diocese of Chester, valued in the Liber regis at £5. 17s. 3}d. : patron, Sir Henry Goodricke, Bart. - r The church, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, is a small edifice of stone. - In the manor of Hunsingore, in the twentieth year of William I., Erneis De Burun, a Norman chief, had five carucates, and three oxgangs, of taxable land; nine villains, three bordars, and three ploughs; wood land, two furlongs long and one THE COUNTY OF YORK. 419 broad, valued, in the whole, at 50s. After which, this manor became part of the possessions of the knights templars. Since the suppression of that order, this, with several other estates hereabouts, has belonged to the family of Goodricke, whose ancient seat was at this place, situate on a mound, the sides of which were cut into terraces, rising nearly ten feet above each other. Here were four of these terraces, above which, on a flat area (where, a few years since, several relics of antiquity were found), stood the mansion, commanding a very extensive prospect. Tradition says, this house was destroyed in the civil wars of Charles I. which is very probable, as it is well known Sir John Goodricke took a very active part on the side of royalty, in those perilous times. - - Cattal is a small township with two hundred and seven inhabitants. Great Ribston with Walshford has one hundred and fifty-five inhabitants. Ribstone hall is the seat of Sir Henry Goodricke, Bart. - After the Conquest, the manor of Ribstone was in the possession of William de Percy, and Ralph Pagnel. Robert Lord Ross became possessed of it in the reign of Henry III., and in 1224, he settled this estate upon the knights templars, where they had a preceptory, and which they enjoyed till the dissolution of their order; when it was granted to the renowned Charles Brandon, duke of Suffolk, of whom it WaS purchased by Henry Goodricke, Esq. in 1542; and here this ancient family, which previously flourished for several generations at Nottingley, in Somersetshire, have been settled ever since. The present baronet is the seventh : Sir Henry Goodricke, Knight, who took arms in the cause of Charles I, being the first baronet, created August 14, 1641. - Ribstone hall is situate upon an eminence, almost encompassed by the river Nidd, and commanding an extensive and beautiful prospect. The house is well finished, convenient and elegant. In the drawing-room are several good family portraits; and in the saloon is a number of excellent pictures, copied by eminent artists from the best originals in the churches, chapels, and palaces of Rome. In the chapel are some monuments in memory of the Goodricke family; and in the chapel-yard is that sepulchral monument of the standard-bearer to the ninth Roman legion, which was dug up in Trinity gardens, near Micklegate, in York, in the year 1688, and is described by Drake in his Eboracum. - Ribstone is remarkable for being the place where that delicious apple, called the Ribstone pippin, was first cultivated in this kingdom. The original tree was raised from a pippin brought from France; from which tree such numbers have been propagated, that they are now to be met with in almost every orchard in this and many other counties.* * Hist. of Knaresborough. CHAP. XI. Cattal. Great Rib- ston with Walshford, Hall. 420 - HISTORY OF Book VI. Kirk Deighton. North Deighton. Ingman- thorpe. KIRK DEIGHTON is a parish town, one mile and a half from Wetherby, on the road to Knaresborough. Population, three hundred and seventy-one. . . The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £15, 11s. 10%d.: patron, the Rev. J. Geldart, LL.D. The church, dedicated to All Saints, has a good tower and spire. g - - Here is a school for the poor people of North and Kirk Deighton, ten from each, endowed by the will of Sir Hugh Pallisar, dated Jan. 24, 1791, with £1,000 South Sea annuities. - - - At North Deighton, on the estate of Sir William Ingilby, Bart, is a very large tumulus, the base of which is nearly five hundred feet in circumference, and the height of the slope about seventy feet; on the top is a flat area, twenty-seven feet long by thirteen broad. About a quarter of a mile from hence is another tumulus, the foundation of which appears to have been laid with large unhewn stones; a custom peculiar to the Danes. There were some other tumuli in the neighbour- hood, of which now no vestige remains, except their names, which are still retained in the fields where they stood, viz. Peesbury hill, Maunberry hill, Ingmanthorp hill, and Ingbarrow hill. **. The township of North Deighton has one hundred and forty-one inhabitants. Ingmanthorpe, the seat of the late Richard Fountayne Wilson, Esq. was anciently part of the possessions of the Barons Trusbuts; from whom it descended to Lord Ross, and was the principal residence of the descendants of that noble family, for many generations. Here was a chapel, dedicated to St. Mary, in which Sir Robert Ross was interred on the 21st of January, 1392. The site of the house, gardens, &c. may yet be traced, in a field, called Hall Garth. - The parish of KIRKBY Overblow,” situate on an eminence on the north bank o. the Wharfe, at the distance of five miles and a half from Wetherby, contains a popu- lation (including Swindon) of three hundred and seventy persons. The benefice, a rectory, valued in the king's books at £20. 1s. 03d., is in the patronage of the earl of Egremont. The church is dedicated to All Saints. Here is a small school for six poor children; the land originally appropriated to the support of which consists of eleven acres. - Kirkby hall is the seat of the Hon. and Rev. Dr. Marsham. Rigton + (population, four hundred and twenty-nine), Kirkby with Netherby Kirkby Overblow. Rigton. Kirkby with Ne- therby. * The orthography of this parish is Kirkby-Ore-Blomers, from its being within the vicinity of an iron forge. This village is situate upon an eminence on the north bank of the Wharfe. * Near to Rigton, on a high hill, is that group of rocks called Almias Cliff, that is, Altar Cliff. At a distance they appear like a stupendous fabric tumbled into ruins. On the summit of this enor- mous pile are several basins hollowed in the stone; one of which is fourteen inches deep, and two feet four inches in diameter.—Hist. of Knaresborough. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 421 (population, two hundred and twenty-six), and Sicklinghall (population, two hun- CHAP. XI. dred and fifty-seven), are small townships in this parish. Sickling- Stainburn is a small chapelry, with three hundred and sixty-four inhabitants. ºwn. The chapel is a perpetual curacy, held with the parish church. KIRK HAMERTON* parish has a population of four hundred and nine persons. Kirk Ha- The town is situate near the road from York to Boroughbridge; from the latter merton. town it is eight miles distant. - - The benefice is a vicarage, in the diocese of Chester, valued in the parliamentary return at £134. 10s.: patron, the Rev. W. Metcalfe. LEATHLEY is a small parish town two miles from Otley, with a population of Leathley. three hundred and twelve persons. t - The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £7. 2s. 84d. : patron, the king. The church is a small building, .2 Here is a school-house and four almshouses, founded in 1769 by Mrs. Anne Hitch, who endowed the same with £12 per annum for the master, to teach the children of the township of Leathley, reading, writing, English grammar, &c. and £4 each for the almshouses, occupied by indigent persons. The money arises out of rents of land at Felliscliffe. The lord of the manor, the rector of Leathley, and the rector of Addle, are trustees. º • . The township of Castley has one hundred and ten inhabitants. Castley. MARtoN with Grafton, which is partly in the liberty of St. Peter, has a population Marton of four hundred and sixty-four persons. • *on. The benefice is a vicarage, in the diocese of Chester, and is valued in the Liber regis at £2, 19s. 4d. : St. John’s college, Cambridge, are patrons. NUN Monkton, pleasantly situate on the banks of the Ouse, eight miles from Nun York, has a population of three hundred and forty-four persons. f Monkton. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, in the diocese of Chester, valued in the par- liamentary return at £45, but by the addition of lands since, it is worth £81. The church is a small but neat edifice, comprising a nave, chancel, and tower at the west end. - - In the time of King Stephen, William de Arches, and Ivetta, his wife, founded Nunnery. here a nunnery, and dedicated it to the Blessed Virgin, for Benedictines, and en- dowed it with divers lands, afterwards confirmed to the nunnery by Henry Murdac, archbishop of York. His possessions were valued, at the Dissolution, at £75. 12s. 4d. The site was granted, 29th Henry VIII. to John Nevil, Lord Latimer; the present owner is Payler Tufnal Jolliffe, Esq. No remains of this religious house exist. The parish of LITTLE OUSEBURN, in the liberty of St. Peter, is five miles from bºn Boroughbridge, and has a population of two hundred and ninety-three persons. ge * Part of this parish is situate in the Ainstey of York. WOL. III. * 5 P 422 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. Widding- ton. - Kirkbyhall Thorp Under- wood. Ripley. Church. Free- school. Castle. The benefice is a vicarage, in the diocese of Chester, valued in the parliamentary return at £96: patron, the precentor of York cathedral. The church is dedicated to the Holy Trinity. . . . . º' . . . . . . . . . . . . . Widdington has thirty-one inhabitants; Kirkbyhall (situate in the lower division of Lower Claro wapentake) has fifty-five, and Thorp Underwood (also in the above division of this wapentake) has one hundred and seventy-nine inhabitants. . . . . RIPLEY is a small market and parish town on the road from Leeds to Ripon, being eight miles distant from the latter. In 1821, this town had a resident population amounting to two hundred and fifty-one persons. The market was formerly held on Monday, but it is disused. Fairs are held here on Easter Monday, August 25, and 26. - ." The benefice is a rectory, in the diocese of Chester, valued in the Liber regis at £23. 8s. 9d. It is in the patronage of Sir W. A. Ingilby, Bart. In the church are several monuments of the Ingilby family. In the south aisle, near Bayne's choir, supposed to have been Saint John the Baptist's chapel, is the tomb of Sir Thomas de Ingilby, a justice of the common pleas in the time of Edward III.; and in the north aisle, near the patron's choir, is a tomb, supposed to be that of Sir Thomas Ingilby,” the founder of the church, of the date of 1415. In the church-yard is a very uncommon pedestal of an ancient cross, with eight niches, intended, probably, for kneeling in. . : Here is a free-school, built and endowed by Catherine and Mary Ingilby, in 1702; of which Sir William Amcotts Ingilby, Bart. is trustee. It is endowed with an estate at Sproatley, in the East riding, containing messuages or tenements, and about one hundred and fifty-three acres, one rood, and twenty-four perches, subject to a payment of £12. 8s. 6d. for tithes. It was let under lease, dated Sept. 1800, for thirty years, at the yearly rent of £40, to Thomas Hewitt and his wife, which sum he pays to the schoolmaster. Mr. Hewitt has under-let it for £120 per annum. The school-premises consist of a spacious school-room, with a house and yard for the master, and a garden in front. The school is free for the whole parish. Adjoining the town, on the west, is Ripley castle, the seat of the ancient family of the Ingilbys; which, from an inscription carved on the frieze of the wainscot in one of the chambers of the tower, was built by Sir William Ingilby, Bart. in 1555. In the civil wars of Charles I. it was a garrison for the king, which • Sir Thomas de Ingilby, about the year 1378, married the heiress of the Ripley family, and by this marriage acquired the estate ; but it was not till the 17th of May, 1642, that the baronetage came into the family, having been at that time conferred upon Sir William. Sir John, the fourth baronet, died in the year 1779, unmarried, and the title became extinct; but it was revived by Sir John, his suc- cessor, by patent, dated the 24th of March, 1781, and is now inherited by Sir William Amcotts Ingilby, Bart. - i. N s s \ N N § sS.S.- S. - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 423 surrendered to Cromwell a few days after the battle of Marston.* It has been CHAP.XI. much enlarged of late years; and appears now a spacious and commodious man- sion, embattled only for ornament, except the lodge and the great tower, which still retain their original traces of caution, strength, and security. In the library is a valuable collection of books; and in the great staircase is an elegant Venetian window, in the divisions of which, on stained glass, is a series of escutcheons, dis- playing the principal quarterings and intermarriages of the Ingilby family, since their séttling at Ripley, during a course of four hundred and thirty years. . Here is preserved one of the two pigs of lead found in 1731, on Hayshaw moor; on these are inscribed, “Imperatore Caesare Domitiano Augusto Consule Sep- timum;” and on one side is the word “Brig.”, signifying it had been cast in the country of the Brigantes. The gardens, which are extensive, and ornamented with greenhouses and hot- houses, excelled by none in the north of England, are, by the liberality of the pre- sent baronet, open for public inspection every Friday. - The township of Clint # (population, four hundred and twelve), and Killinghallf (population five hundred and nineteen). - - . - Spofforth (Spaw-ford) is a small parish town, three miles from Wetherby, with a population of eight hundred and ninety-five persons. - * After the battle of Marston moor, Cromwell took the route to Ripley, and sent to the castle an officer, a relation to the Ingilbys, to announce his arrival in that town. Sir William was at that time from home, but his lady, the daughter of Sir J ames Bellingham, who received the communication, re- quested that Cromwell might be told that no such person as himself could be admitted there, adding, . that she had force enough to defend herself and that house against all rebels. With some persuasion Clint. Killing- hall. Spofforth. this heroic lady was at length prevailed upon by her relative to receive the general, which she did at the gate of the lodge, with a pair of pistols stuck in her apron-strings ; and having told him that she expected that neither he nor his soldiers would behave improperly, she led him to the hall. There sitting or reclining, each on a sofa in different parts of the room, these two extraordinary personages passed the night, equally jealous of each other's intentions. At his departure in the morning, this high- spirited dame caused it to be intimated to Cromwell.that it was well he had behaved in so peaceable a manner, for had it been otherwise he would not have left that house alive.—Baines's York. - + ºth the lower division of Claro wapentake. Here was anciently the seat of Sir William Beckwith, of Clint, Knight; part of the old house is still remaining, called Clint hall, a very ancient stone building, with an arched portal situate on a lofty eminence, commanding an extensive prospect. Some remains of the moat that once surrounded this ancient mansion are still discernible. . • ºt In the lower division of Claro wapentake. The Norwich troop of horse, which was a part of Cromwell's regiment, were quartered at Killinghall, in July, 1644, a few days after the battle of Marston. This troop had embroidered on their colours, La Troupe des Vierges, being raised by the voluntary subscription of the young ladies of Norwich. It was for some centuries the seat of the family of Pulleyn. Captain John Levens, who lived in the reign of Charles I. having, in the latter part of his life, quitted the army, became one of the people called Quakers, and retired to this peaceful solitude, where he ended his days in the year 1668. He and his two sons were interred in an orchard here ; and, perhaps, no places are more proper to bury our dead in than gardens, groves, or airy fields. assº" 424 HISTORY OF Book VI. Hall. Church. Before the Conquest, Gamelbar was lord of this manor; after which, William de Percy had here four carucates of land, nine villains, and ten bordars. Here was the seat of the illustrious family of the Percys, even before Alnwick or Warkworth came into their possession. William de Percy obtained a grant for a market here on Fridays, in the year 1224; and in 1309, Henry de Percy pro- cured license to fortify his castle here. Henry de Percy, the first earl of Northumberland, was slain at Bramham moor, within a few miles of this house, in the year 1407. After the battle of Towton, 1462, so fatal to Henry VI., in which, amongst a great many others, were slain the earl of Northumberland, and Sir Richard Percy, his brother, their estates were laid waste, and every thing be- longing to them entirely destroyed, by the enraged conquerors. Leland observes, that “the manor-house at Spofford was sore defaced, in the time of the civile warrs betwixt Henry the sixth and Edward the fourth, by the earl of Warwick, and marquis of Montacute.” After having lain in ruins some time, we find this house was again made tenable; for, in the year 1559, Henry, Lord Percy, obtained a license to fortify his houses at Spofford and Leckenfield. It is most probable, this mansion was demolished in the civil wars of Charles I., as Sampson Ingilby, Esq. steward to the duke of Northumberland, resided here about the year 1600. The present ruins extend forty-five yards from north to south, and sixteen from east to west. The situation is on a sloping bank, ending on a low wall of rock within the castle, affording convenience for lower apartments. The hall, which has been a most magnificent room, is seventy-five feet in length, and thirty-six in breadth; the windows are arched like those of eathedral churches. It seems to have been built about the time of Edward III., when the idea of the castle began to give way to that of the palace. - The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £73. 6s. 8d. It is in the patronage of the earl of Egremont. The church, dedicated to All Saints, is a large and handsome structure, comprising a nave and aisles, chancel, and tower at Follifoot. Linton. Plumpton. the west end. The interior is neatly fitted up: in the south wall, under an elegant canopy, lies the mutilated effigy of a crusader, his legs, crossed, and hands elevated; at his feet lies a lion; on his shield are five fusils, charged with five escallóps; the arms of Plumpton, of Plumpton. - - “...º. South of the church is a building (now in ruins), with a circular doorway resting on two columns with leaved capitals. Here is a neat Wesleyan chapel. Follifoot has two hundred and ninety-three inhabitants, and Linton, one hundred and sixty-seven. - - - Plumpton has two hundred and eight inhabitants. * This was formerly the seat of the ancient family of Plumpton, who held it of ( * * * * | THE COUNTY OF YORK. - 425 the Percys as mesne lords; and which lands they have held ever since the twentieth year of William the Conqueror, in one regular and uninterrupted course of descent, in the male line, till, it at last ended in Robert Plumpton, Esq., who died in France about the year 1749, from whom the estate went to his aunt, Anne, who sold it to the late Daniel Lascelles, Esq. The pleasure grounds, comprising about twenty-three acres, are laid out with much taste, and diversified with large rocks, flowers, shrubs, and evergreens; and at the foot of the rocks is a beautiful lake, covering about seven acres of ground. There is one rock surrounded with water, of immense magnitude, and of the same grit as the Devil's Arrows at Borough- bridge; it is about fifty feet in length, and, near the water's edge, without a joint. The singularity and beauty of the situation cause numbers of people to resort, during the summer months, to these grounds, which are always open for public inspection on Tuesdays, and occasionally on Fridays. - One mile from Plumpton, on the right of the road leading from thence to Spofford, at about one hundred yards distant, stands a rock of a singular shape; its circumference, about ninety feet, and altitude, twenty-four. There is a large perforation quite through the rock, five feet wide, and near six feet high; in the centre of this cavity is a basin, two feet ‘deep, and four feet in diameter. Such perforations are supposed to have been used by the Druids, to initiate and dedi- cate their children to the offices of rock-worship. - - - The township of Little Ribston has one hundred and ninety-five inhabitants. Stockeld has sixty-nine inhabitants. The hall here is the seat of P. Middleton, Esq. - - WETHERBY is a market town and township, situate in this parish. It is six miles from Harewood and fifteen from York, and contains one thousand two hun- dred and seventeen inhabitants. The market is held on Thursday, and fairs on Holy Thursday and August 5. Across the river is a fine stone weir for raising the water, by means of which several flour, oil, and logwood mills are worked. The manor was anciently a possession of the knights templars, but on the abolition of that order, in the reign of Edward II., it was given by the Pope to the knights hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem, and the grant was confirmed by parliament in 1324. In the civil war, in the time of Charles I., this town had a small garrison, consisting of three hundred foot and forty horse, commanded by Sir Thomas Fairfax. . This handful of brave men, unused to the vigilance of the camp, was surprised by eight hundred horse and foot from York; and the attack being made early in the morning, the guard were found sleeping at their post: “ for,” says Sir Thomas, “at the beginning of the war, men were as impa- tient of duty as they were ignorant of it.” The general, however, was awake, and, with the assistance of four men, held the enemy at bay till more of the guards vol. III. 5 Q A- * CHAP. XI. Druidical remains. I.ittle Rib- Ston. Stockeld. Wetherby. 426 - HISTORY OF Book VI. St. Helen’s ford. were got to arms. A smart engagement then ensued, in which the assailants were repulsed. The attack was soon renewed; but in the midst of the conflict Fairfax's magazine was blown up, and produced so tremendous an explosion, that the royalists, believing that the parliamentary forces had cannon, began to retreat, and retired to the garrison at York, from which they had issued to engage in this abortive enterprise. A little below this town is a place called St. Helen's ford, where the Roman military way crossed the river. Some very important improvements have lately been made in Wetherby, at the expense of the duke of Devonshire, the principal proprietor here, by whose directions a considerable number of old and ruinous buildings have been pulled down, and small, neat, and comfortable houses, built of stone, erected in their stead. By our Saxon ancestors, this town was called Wederbi, which signifies to turn, owing to its situation on an angle of the Wharfe.* - The country around presents much beau- tiful and diversified scenery. Walking- ham hill. Weston. The church, a small edifice, is a perpetual curacy, in the gift of the vicar of Spofforth. • Here are chapels for the Wesleyan Methodists and the Independents. WALKINGHAM HILL, with Occaney, is an extra-parochial farm-house, containing twenty-four persons. . . WESTON is an inconsiderable parish town, two miles from Otley, with one hun. dred and eight inhabitants. . The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary return at £57. 6s. 8d.: patron, the king. The church, dedicated to All Saints, is a small edifice without a tower, and apparently erected in the early part of the twelfth century. In the family chapel of the Vavasours, at the end of the north aisle, is a very singular dos d’ane tomb beneath an arch. It is of one stone, highly ridged, and tapering from head to foot. Longitudinally on the ridge lies a sword, and above it an heater shield charged with a bend dexter, which marks it as the tomb of a Stopham. By an inscription on a modern brass plate above, it has been assigned to Sir William de Stopham, last of the name, who was living in 1312; but from its form Mr. Whitaker suspected it to be a generation or two older than the era of Edward II. Weston hall is the seat of William Vavasour, Esq. Mr. Gray describes this seat as “a venerable stone fabric, with large offices of Mr. Vavasour, the meadows in front gently descending to the water, and behind a great and shady wood. The present house, consisting of a centre and two deep embayed windows, is of the latter end of Queen Elizabeth's time; and much of its antique appearance Hall. * Hargrove's History of Knaresborough. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 427 has been preserved, though the inside has been throughout modernized, and chap. xi. adapted to habits of modern elegance. In the garden is a very large and highly- finished casino, or banqueting-house, of the same date with the house, and bearing on several shields the arms of Vavasour and Stanley. The stone-work is elaborate. In the windows were originally the armorial bearings of the principal families within the wapentake of Claro, all of whom, in those days of hospitality, were probably wont to assemble in this apartment.”* The township of Askwith has three hundred and sixty-seven inhabitants. Askwith. The parish town of WHIxLEY, six miles from Boroughbridge, contains a population Whixley. of four hundred and sixty-seven persons. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, in the diocese of Chester, valued in the Church. parliamentary return at £41. Patron, the heirs of the Tancred family. The church formerly belonged to the priory of Knaresborough. Mr. Drake supposes that it was built with stones brought from the ruins of Aldborough; as the marks of fire are very apparent in some parts of the building: it is, nevertheless, very probable that it was burnt, with many other churches in this neighbourhood, by the Scots, in the year 1319. The park wall, and most of the houses in this village, are built with pebbles, said to have been taken from the remains of the Roman road. - Green Hamerton is a small township, with three hundred and twenty-nine Green inhabitants. . Hamerton. The hall here was formerly a seat of the ancient family of Tancred, the last of Hall. • whom, Christopher Tancred, Esq. died in August, 1754, and by his will left his house and estate here for the maintenance of twelve decayed gentlemen, four in each of the three learned professions, who must be fifty years of age or upwards, and unmarried, each of whom received, in 1814, about £50 per annum, and ls. 6d. per day for providing victuals, &c. besides the use of two large gardens. A separate apartment is assigned to each, but, if in health, are required to dine together in the dining-room every day. The hall is twenty-seven feet square. The chapel is twenty-seven feet by twenty-one ; it has a pulpit and reading-desk, the former of which appears as if it had never been used, having no entrance: £20 per annum is allowed to a clergyman for officiating here at stated times. In a vault underneath this chapel, it is said, the noble founder was interred. The inmates of this hospital are not permitted to be absent a night without leave, and the longest time of absence allowed is five days. In the staircase is a pedigree of the Tancreds, commencing with Richard Tancred, Esq. who mar- ried Adeliza, daughter of Jordan de Bussey, and ending with the founder of * Whitaker. *- 428 HISTORY OF BOOK WI. this hospital. At the end is an account of the several places where the family had estates; the annual value of which, in 1786, was about £1,300. The trust of this hospital is vested inseven governors; viz. the governors of Greenwich and Chelsea hospitals, the master of the Charter-house, the president of the College of Physicians, the treasurer of Lincoln’s-Inn, London; the masters of Caius college, and Christ's college, Cambridge. - - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 429. BOOK VII. HISTORY AND TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY OF THE NORTH RIDING. -tz w CHAPTER I. SURVEY OF WHITBY STRAND LIBERTY, AND PICKERING LYTHE WAPENTAKE. THE liberty and wapentake of Whitby Strand” contains the following parishes: FYLINGDALES, HACKNESS, SNEATON, WHITBY. CHAP, I. WHITBY, in the wapentake and liberty of Whitby Strand, is situate on a Whitby. bold and precipitous shore, twenty miles from Scarborough, and two hundred and forty-four from London. The town stands on two opposite declivities at the mouth of the Eske, by which river it is divided into two parts, which are connected by a drawbridge, so constructed as to admit vessels of thirty-two feet in width. The Saxon name of this place was Streoneshalh; and Bede says that it was so called from a watch-tower, or light-house, which stood on the cliff, on the eastern side of the harbour. It was afterwards called Presteby, or the habitation of priests; then Whiteby, which was easily changed to Whitby. F Streoneshalh, with its abbey, was, in the year 867, so entirely destroyed by the Danes, that its very name was lost in its ruins, and the place remained desolate till near the time of the Norman conquest, when a few huts being erected in the place where the town had formerly stood, it took the name of Presteby, from being in the neighbourhood of the ancient residence of monks. But the place was then so * The liberty and wapentake are co-extensive, of which George Cholmley, Esq. of Howsham, is lord and chief bailiff. + Mr. Charlton supposes Whiteby to have been a corruption of White-bay, and derives the appel- lation from the whiteness of the waves that break upon the shore; but this is too general an appear- ance on the sea-coast to designate a particular place; and Mr. Hinderwell, the historian of Scarborough, with a more critical attention to etymology, observes, that Whitby signified nothing more than “candidus vicus,” or “oppidum album,” the white dwelling, or town. WOLs III. 5 R History and Com- Iſle! Cœ. 430 - HISTORY OF B O O K VII. inconsiderable, that neither the names of Streoneshalh, Presteby, nor Whiteby, are to be found in Domesday book, although Egton, Sneton, Dunsley, Stakesby, and several other villages in the neighbourhood, are particularly mentioned. º About the year 1122, William, the first abbot, had a dispute with Wicheman, prior of Bridlington, respecting the tithe of fish exacted from the fishermen of Whitby and of Filey; and from the roll for 1396, it appears that the tithes and spiritual dues for the port of Whitby produced £52. 13s. 11d. in half a year; besides the tithe fish made use of in the monastery.* - But it was not merely in the fisheries that the Whitby vessels were then em- ployed; for we find from the rolls of the abbey, that some of them were engaged in the coal trade. According to the roll for 1394-5, the names of the owners or masters of Whitby vessels which brought coals that year for the monastery were Elias Nesfield, John Cundith, John Thorpe, and John Legat. Coals were also brought to Whitby that year in vessels belonging to Sunderland, Shields, New- castle, Barton, Lynn, and other ports. The quantity of coals bought for the abbey that year amounted to forty-three chaldrons and one quarter. About that period, some of the Whitby seamen not only engaged in trade, but in piracy: “1405, July 16, the king had ordered some pirates of Whitby to make restitution to two Danish merchants, whose vessels they had taken; but they paid no attention to the mandate, and an officer was now ordered to bring them before the king, that they might answer for their disobedience.”* t At the visit of Leland, one hundred and thirty years after, Whitby was a fishing-town of great note. He does not state what vessels belonged to it, but as he names Robin Hood's Bay, “a fisher townlet of twenty boats,” Whitby, which he calls “a great fisher town,” must have had many more. After the commencement of the alum trade, the vessels of Whitby increased both in size and number, and it soon ceased to be regarded as a mere fishing-town. - In the year 1540, Whitby only contained between thirty and forty houses, occupied by more than one hundred and eighty, or at the most two hundred inhabitants. At this period a few small trading vessels constituted the whole marine belonging to the port. At this time there were piers at Whitby, for the convenience of such vessels as entered the harbour; but they were constructed only of wood, with a few loose stones put into the framing, and could never long resist * “A considerable portion of this sum arose from the sale of herrings; and it is stated in Rymer's Foedera, vol. vii. p. 788, that “in the year 1894, prodigious shoals of herrings appeared off the port of Whitby, which occasioned a vast resort of foreigners, who bought up, cured. the fish, and exported them, to the great injury of the natives; to prevent which, the king issued a proclamation, directed to the bailiffs of St. Hilda's church, requiring them to put a stop to these practices.’ ”—Young's Whitby. + Macpherson's Ann. Commerce, vol. i. p. 615. s tº THE COUNTY OF YORK. 431 the violence of the sea.” Mr. Charlton says, that “he could never meet with any certain account of either ship or vessel belonging to the port of Whitby, during the long reign of Elizabeth, except fishing-boats only, till after the erection of the alum-works at Guisborough. The important discovery of the alum-mine in those parts, at the close of that reign, was the original cause that raised Whitby from its obscurity, and, by opening a channel for commerce, enabled the town to attain a degree of maritime consequence. -- “The successful progress of the alum-works, established by Mr. Chaloner at Guisborough, excited a spirit of emulation, and one of a similar kind was erected in the year 1615, near Sands-end, within three miles of Whitby. This also proving advantageous, and the vicinity of Whitby abounding with alumstone, other adven- turers were induced to embark in those undertakings. In consequence of this extended speculation, two great branches of trade were opened at the port of Whitby ; one for supplying the works with coal, and the other for conveying the alum to distant parts. The fishermen of Whitby, perceiving a favourable pro- spect of employment, purchased two or three small vessels, with which they traded to Newcastle and Sunderland for coals; and at length ventured to London with alum, butter, fish, &c., and returned to Whitby freighted with various articles of merchandise. This infant state of commerce was gradually matured; the ideas of the inhabitants expanded; the number of vessels was increased ; and new ships were built at this port, from the oak timber which the vicinity produced. From such an inconsiderable beginning the town of Whitby, by the industry, the enterprise, and successful speculations of its inhabitants, rose to a state of opu- lence, and became a plaqe of considerable importance.” + About the commencement of the commonwealth, the population of this part amounted to nearly two thousand persons; and the whole marine belonging to Whitby was about twenty small vessels, manned with one hundred and twenty or one hundred and thirty seamen, and all employed in the coasting trade. At the restoration of Charles the Second, in 1660, the number of inhabitants was increased to nearly three thousand, and that of the ships to about thirty; an increase which Mr. Charlton ascribes to the alum-works at Saltwick. In the year 1690, the number of inhabitants in Whitby was nearly four thousand, and sixty ships of eighty tons burden belonged to the port. - CHAP. I. Alum- Works. In the commencement of the eighteenth century, many important improvements Harbour were made in the harbour, which so greatly increased the trade of the port, that, in 1734, no fewer than one hundred and thirty vessels, of eighty tons burden, belonged to Whitby ; and in that year three spacious dry-docks were constructed on the east side of the Eske. During the war, which was terminated by the * Charlton’s Hist, Whitby, book iii. pp. 288, 289. + Hinderwell's Hist. Scarborough, p. 268. improved. 432 HISTORY OF B O O K VII. sº peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, the trade of this port continued in a most flourishing state, so that the inhabitants were able to expend 40 or £50,000 annually in building new ships; and many of them being employed in the transport service, brought in a considerable profit. Opulence produced elegance, its usual con- comitant, and the town soon assumed a new appearance. Till that time, all the houses had been built either of oak timber, framed, or of stone, roughly hewed, and many of them were thatched; but now, stone being almost wholly laid aside, the people of Whitby began to construct spacious and commodious habitations of brick, and many of them in a style of magnificence.* In the year 1757, some of the shipbuilders began to make docks on the west side of the river. Since the establishment of the alum-works in the neighbourhood, and the introduction of shipping at Whitby, the town has been continually increasing in wealth and population; but the increase was slow so long as the harbour was without piers. No sooner, however, were these constructed and the harbour made commodious, than the town increased with rapidity. In the year 1776, there were two hundred and fifty-one ships belonging to this port, besides those on the stocks; and both the marine and the population had more than doubled in the space of forty years preceding, F But in 1796, there appeared to have been a decrease in the shipping; for, by a register in the custom-house, the tonnage was only forty-six thousand five hundred and thirty-five tons, and the whole was navigated by two thousand four hundred and fifty-two seamen. This decrease was owing to the number of ships taken or destroyed by the enemy. In time of peace, Whitby usually sends, twelve or fourteen ships to Greenland; this fishery annually employs a great number of seamen, each ship carrying between forty and fifty hands; and the perils and hardships of the trade have contributed not a little to form that hardy and enterprising character, for which the seamen of Whitby have generally been distinguished. The following is an official account of the number of ships, tonnage, and seamen, registered in this port, in the years below: vessels. • Tonnage. Seamen. 1816 . . . . . . . . . . 280 . . . . . . . . . . 46,341 . . . . . . . . . . 2674 1820 . . . . . . . . . . 268 . . . . . . . . . . 44,855 . . . . . . . . . . 2651 - 1821 . . . . . . . . . . 266 . . . . . . . . . . 44,327 . . . . . . . . . . 2565 1822 . . . . . . . . . . 265 . . . . . . . . . . 43,744 . . . . . . . . . . 2534 + * Mr. Charlton says, that no place in England has greater plenty of clay for brick-making, or of a better quality, than is met with at Whitby. * “The tonnage amounted to fifty-five thousand tons.”—Charlton’s Hist, Whitby, p. 342. t As several large vessels belonging to ship-owners of this port are registered in London, the Whitby ships for the latter year may be stated to amount to two hundred and eighty-five, and the tonnage to fifty thousand. - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 433 * * The exports of Whitby to foreign parts are very limited; they consist princi- pally of alum, whale oil, and dried fish. The imports are much more considerable; they are chiefly articles of Baltic produce, comprehending timber, deals, hemp, flax, and ashes. . The coasting trade is also considerable, and the shipments made hence to other parts of England consist principally of alum, sail cloth, butter, bacon, grain, and leather. - - The inhabitants of this port have long been noted for their skill in building ships, as well as in navigating them.* Mr. Jarvis Coates, who appears to have commenced business a little before the year 1700, was one of the first who built large vessels in Whitby. About 1730, the ship-yard of the dock company, at the foot of Green lane, was commenced, and the double dry-dock was built about four years afterwards. The formation of the ship-yards has contributed much to the enlargement of the town, many houses having been erected in their vicinage, particularly some very handsome dwellings for the ship-builders; among these, Eske House, the residence of Thomas Broderick, Esq., holds a conspicuous place. While the town and harbour of Whitby were receiving successive improvements, the adjacent country was greatly neglected. Till the latter end of the eighteenth century, the roads about this town lay in a state of nature, rugged, miry, and uneven : it was dangerous in the winter to approach the town on horseback; but still more so with a loaded carriage. But about that period the roads nearest the town began to be rendered passable, and soon after commodious. The advan- tages attending these improvements became so evident, that in 1760 a design was formed to join, as Mr. Charlton expresses it, the town of Whitby to the other parts of England, by making turnpike roads over the extensive moors which lie to the southward in the way to Pickering This design was soon after carried into complete execution; and travellers began to pass, without danger or fear, over those deserts, which no stranger before that time ever durst venture to cross without a guide. The town of Whitby soon derived great advantages from being thus rendered easy of access, as it enabled the country people to bring to the market more abundant and various supplies. In 1801, the population of this town amounted to seven thousand four hundred and eighty-three persons; in 1811, to six thousand nine hundred and sixty-nine; CHAP. I. Exports. Ship- building. Popula- tion. and in 1820, it had increased to ten thousand four hundred and thirty-five, inhabiting one thousand seven hundred and fifty-three houses. The port of Whitby, whatever it might have been in the Roman and Saxon periods, must have been of considerable consequence at the period of the con- quest; for it was expressly given to the adjacent abbey by the Percy family, and + All the vessels which Captain Cook took with him in his voyages round the world, were built at Whitby. r - WOL. III, - 5 s Port. 434 .- HISTORY OF B O O K VII. great care was taken to have the grant repeatedly confirmed by royal and other charters. “Perhaps,” says Mr. Young, “in the early times of the monastery, the only facilities which it furnished to shipping consisted of a few mooring posts and one or two landing-places, partly formed by nature, and partly improved by art. Yet piers began to be erected long before the dissolution of the monastery, and perhaps the yearly making up of the horngarth had some connexion with the repairing of a pier, quay, or landing-place.” Leland, who visited Whitby some time before the reformation, states, that there was “an havenet holp with a peere,” and that a new quay and port were then “making of stone, fallen down from the rocks thereby.” Another document, quoted in Young's History of Whitby,” informs us, that after the dissolution of the abbey, Henry VIII. employed great sums of money in maintaining the piers at Whitby, for which purpose timber was granted from the king's woods, in the parish of Whitby and the vicinity. In 1632, the piers were found to be in a very ruinous state; and they were repaired through the exertions of Sir Hugh Cholmley, the whole of the west pier being then rebuilt. But as the piers at that time were constructed only of loose stones, strengthened by beams of timber, the violence of the sea soon demolished or greatly injured them; so that within thirty years after the Whitby piers were again rebuilt and much improved by the Cholmley family, who adopted the plan of driving rows of piles to break the waves, and thus defend the piers from their fury. Notwithstanding these works, Whitby pier is described as in an unfinished state in the latter part of the reign of Charles II. Indeed, nothing effectual was done for placing the piers and harbour on a respectable footing, till the year 1702, when an act of parliament provided funds for that purpose. Several acts have been obtained since, to continue or increase the revenues then provided. These revenues arise from a duty of one halfpenny per chalder on all coals shipped at Newcastle, Sunderland, Blyth, and their dependencies, except in Yarmouth vessels; with duties on coals, salt, corn, &c. landed at Whitby ; on butter and fish shipped at Whitby ; and on ships entering the port of Whitby. The first of these duties is the most productive; and the propriety of imposing that burden on the coal trade is obvious, from the consideration, that the harbour is an excellent place of refuge for colliers and other coasting vessels, in stormy weather. The whole revenues provided for the maintenance of the piers average about £2,000 yearly. The money is expended under the direction of ten trustees, who have power to fill up vacancies that may occur in their number. An engineer and above twenty workmen are employed on the piers during the greater part of the year. The improvements made in this harbour since it was taken under the care of * Vol. ii. p. 530, Note. - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 435 the legislature have been very extensive. The west pier has been repeatedly rebuilt, repaired, and enlarged; and has been joined to Haggersgate, one of the principal streets, by the erection of a broad and extensive quay. This pier was completed in 1814; and is an excellent piece of workmanship, which may vie with any pier in the kingdom, either for strength or beauty. It is faced with dressed stones of immense size, some single stones weighing about six tons each; the stones are strongly riveted together, and many of them mortised into each other. The east pier, which has also been frequently improved and extended, is now enlarging on the outside, in the same kind of durable masonry, forming a powerful barrier to defend the town and port from the fury of the German Ocean. **. The inner piers, which contribute to check the swell of the sea, and at the same time to throw a greater depth of water into the channel, have been built and enlarged at different periods. The burgess pier on the east side, and the Scotch head opposite it on the west, which were formerly short and ill constructed, have in recent times been greatly improved. The fish-pier, and the jetty opposite to it at the coffee-house, are modern erections, having been built little more than , thirty years ago.”. . g - By the extension of the piers, and the consequent contraction of the entrance of the harbour, the sand banks which formerly obstructed the channel have been cleared away, and the depth of water has been much increased. The depth at neap-tides is from ten to twelve feet; at spring-tides, it is from fifteen to eighteen feet, and sometimes more. The swell of the sea is of course increased with the depth of water, and in stormy weather vessels cannot ride in safety below the bridge; but there is room above the bridge to accommodate a large fleet, the water being sufficiently deep as far as Boghall, though the channel is partly confined on the west side by a bank called the Bell Isle. Above the bridge dolphins are fixed, in the middle of the harbour, to which vessels are made fast; and below are placed buoys, or floating mooring-posts, in the spaces between the piers. Spring-tides flow on the shore at half-past three, but are later in the offing. A harbour-master is appointed by the trustees for the piers, to direct vessels to proper moorings, and maintain order in the harbour. The pilots, fourteen in number, are also under a governor. There are now two life-boats, one on each side of the harbour; and Captain Manby's apparatus is kept on the west side. p - The piers and quays are furnished with mooring posts, windlasses, and other conveniences for the shipping. There are stairs at various places, for descending to the water, particularly from the west pier and the quay; and there are also paved roads leading down into the harbour at various openings called ghauts or gauts, both above the bridge and below it. - \ * * Young's Picture of Whitby, p. 186. CHAP. I. Piers. 436 HISTORY OF B O O K. VII. Batteries. Church, The west pier and the quay are not only of the greatest utility to the harbour, but form an excellent promenade for the inhabitants of the town, extending above six hundred yards in length. The extremity of the pier is also intended for the defence of the town and harbour, being constructed as a battery for six guns. Behind the south end of the same pier, immediately under the west cliff, is a well-built half-moon battery, with a small tower at each angle, and a bomb-proof magazine, with other offices behind it. Here eight guns were mounted in time of war; but within these few years the guns have been removed, both from this and the pier-head battery; and long may they continue to be unnecessary. The batteries are erected from the same funds, and under the direction of the same trustees. All the works connected with this department are executed in a manner that does honour to the trustees and to the engineers whom they have employed. ſ - - - The port of Whitby having been given to the abbot and convent, whose rights passed to the lord of the manor of Whitby, the harbour is not altogether public property: and vessels entering the port, or delivering goods on any part of the shore of Whitby Strand, pay dues to the lord of the manor, Colonel George Cholmley. Af ~ - The church is seated near the top of the hill, on the eastern side of the town, a little to the north of the abbey, and is approached, from the vale, by an ascent of one hundred and ninety stone steps, which renders it of difficult access to the old and infirm. The architecture of this church was originally Gothic ; but it has undergone many modern alterations, and now retains little of its ancient form. Around the communion-table are tombstones of several of the Cholmley family, who have been interred in this place; but the inscriptions contain nothing remark- able. Near the door of the vestry is a superb monument, erected in 1772, over the grave of General Lascelles, who was a native of Whitby. The epitaph, which is as follows, may be regarded as a biographical memoir of that excellent officer:— “To the memory of Peregrine Lascelles, General of all and singular his Majesty's forces, who served his country from the year 1706. In the reign of Queen Anne he served in Spain ; and in the battles of Almanara, Saragossa, and Villaviciosa, performed the duties of a brave and gallant officer. In the rebellion of the year 1715, he served in Scotland; and in that of 1745, after a fruitless exertion of his spirit and abilities at the disgraceful rout of Preston Pans, he remained forsaken on the field. In all his dealings just and disinterested, bountiful to his soldiers, a father to his officers, a man of faith and principle, in short, AN HoNEST MAN. He died March 26th, 1772, in the eighty-eighth year of his age.” : *. The church-yard, which contains more than two acres of ground, is, in conse- quence of the great population of the parish, exceedingly crowded with grave-stones. THE county of yoRK. X- 437 But, as Mr. Charlton observes, the sea-air at Whitby is so destructive to stone, of whatever kind, that inscriptions are soon obliterated. * The monastery of Streoneshalh, or Whitby, was founded by Oswy, king of the Northumbrians, in consequence of a vow which he had made previous to the sanguinary battle of Winwidfield, or Leeds, in 665, that if God should grant him the victory, he would build a monastery, and consecrate his daughter, then scarcely one year old, to the services of religion. Oswy obtained a complete victory; Penda, king of Mercia, was slain with most of his nobles, and Nor- thumbria was delivered from a powerful and implacable enemy. After this signal success, Oswy immediately began to think of showing his gratitude to heaven, by performing his vow; and built the famous monastery of Streoneshalh, now Whitby, for monks and nuns of the Benedictine order, of which St. Hilda was the first abbess.” This celebrated lady was the grand niece of Edwin, the first christian king of Northumbria, and, together with him, had been converted and baptized by Paulinus, archbishop of York. Resolving to devote her life to the duties of religion, she retired to the monastery of Cale, or Chelles, in France, where her sister was abbess, and remained there about a year, till Aidan, bishop of the Northumbrians, persuaded her to return to her own country. She after- wards resided some time in a convent near the river Wear, in the county of Durham, till the fame of her extreme sanctity induced Oswy to esteem her a fit person to preside over his new monastery. The building was begun in the year 657; and although it was founded and endowed by Oswy, king of the Northumbrians, and dedicated to St. Peter, the honour of its foundation was ascribed to St. Hilda, and the monastery was always called by her name; a proof of the veneration in which she was held by CHAP. I. Abbey. the people. Her name is still famous in this part of the country; and although we are not possessed of sufficient credulity to believe the miracles which the early writers ascribe to her prayers, and cannot but smile at the superstitions of the multitude, we still must acknowledge, that this universal veneration is a strong evidence of her eminent virtues.t * * The town of Streoneshalh stood on the hill between the abbey and the sea. + “I shall,” says the historian of Whitby, “produce only one instance more of the great vene- ration paid to Lady Hilda, which still prevails even in these our days (that is, A.D. 1776)—and that is, the constant opinion that she rendered, and still renders, herself visible, on some occasions, in the abbey of Streoneshalh, or Whitby, where she so long resided. At a particular time of the year, viz. in the summer months, at ten or eleven in the forenoon, the sunbeams fall in the inside of the northern part of the choir; and 'tis then that the spectators who stand on the west side of Whitby church-yard, so as just to see the most northerly part of the abbey, past the north of Whitby church, imagine they perceive in one of the highest windows there the resemblance of a woman arrayed in a shroud. Though we are certain this is only a reflection, caused by the splendour of the sun's beams, yet report says, WOL. III. & , 5 T 438 HISTORY OF B O O K VII. Eminent IſlēI). Death of St. Hilda. While Lady Hilda was abbess, the famous synod of Whitby was held, A.D. 664, for fixing the time of the celebration of Easter; which, notwithstanding her opposition, and that of the venerable Colman, bishop of Northumbria, was determined in favour of the Roman custom.” f - Of the number of those who were educated for the ministry in this monastery, we may form some idea from the fact, that no less than six of them were accounted worthy of the episcopal dignity; viz. Bosa, John of Beverley, and Wilfrid II., archbishops of York, Hedda, bishop of Wessex, and Tatſrid and Oſtsor, bishops of Worcester. This abbey also had the honour of producing the father of English poets, the famous Caedman or Cedman, who was here divinely inspired with the gift of poetry.f s In the year 680 the celebrated Lady St. Hilda died, at the age of sixty-six, and was succeeded, as abbess of Streoneshalh, by the Princess Elfleda, daughter of Oswy, king of Northumbria. The monastery continued in a flourishing state till the year 867, when it was annihilated amidst the total devastation of this part of the country by the Danish invasion, under the two sons of Lodbrog, Inguar and Ubba. After the Conquest, a large tract of land in this neighbourhood was bestowed on Hugh, first earl of Chester, who granted it to William de Percy, ancestor of the earls of Northumberland. This nobleman having obtained the site of Streoneshalh, refounded the monastery, which then lay in ruins, and gave it the title of a priory. He appointed his brother, Serlo, the first prior, and endowed the house with liberal benefactions. In the reign of Henry I. it was changed from a priory to an abbey, and that monarch granted to the monks the port, or haven, with the wreck, and all other appurtenances. § In the reign and it is constantly believed among the vulgar, to be an appearance of Lady Hilda, in her shroud, or rather in her glorified state.”—Charlton, p. 33. - * Bede, Lib. iii. Cap. 25. ap f The hymn which this early poet is said to have composed in his sleep has come down to our times, being preserved in King Alfred's translation of Bede, and is undoubtedly the oldest specimen of Saxon poetry extant. † This William de Percy died near Jerusalem, in the crusade.—Charlton’s Hist. Whitby, p. 61. § The following singular fable belongs to this period of the monastic history of Whitby. Charlton and Young both prove that it is entirely a romantic monkish legend:— “In the fifth year of [the reign of King] Henry the Second, after the conquest of England by William, duke of Normandy, the lord of Ugglebarnby, then called William de Bruce; the lord of Sneaton, called Ralph de Piercie ; with a gentleman and freeholder [of Fylingdales], called Allatson, did, in the month of October, the 16th day of the same month, appoint to meet and hunt the wild boar, in a certain wood or desert, called Eskdale-Side. The wood or place did belong to the abbot of the monastery of Whitby, who was called Sedman. Then the aforesaid gentlemen did meet, with their boar-staves and hounds, in the place aforenamed, and there found a great wild boar, and the hounds did run him very well, near about the chapel and hermitage of Eskdale-Side, where there was a monk of Whitby, who was an hermit. The boar being sore [wounded, and hotly] pursued, and dead-run, THE COUNTY OF YORK. 439 of Henry II, and the days of Abbot Richard, who died in 1175, the monastery was pillaged, and the adjacent country laid waste by a Norwegian fleet. But after this took in at the chapel door, and there laid him down and presently died. The hermit shut the hounds forth of the chapel, and kept himself within at his meditation and prayers, the hounds standing at bay without. The gentlemen in the thick of the wood put behind their game, following the cry of their hounds, came to the hermitage, and found the hounds round about the chapel. Then came the gen- tlemen to the door of the chapel, and called the hermit, who did open the door and come forth, and within lay the boar, dead; for the which the gentlemen, in a fury, because their hounds were put from their game, did [most violently and cruelly] run at the hermit with their boar-staves, whereof he died. Then the gentlemen, knowing and perceiving he was in peril of death, took sanctuary at Scarborough ; but at that time the abbot, in great favour with the king, did remove them out of the sanctuary, whereby they came in danger of the law, and could not be privileged, but like to have the séverity of the law, which was death for death. But the hermit being a holy man, and being very sick, and at the point of death, sent for the abbot, and desired him to send for the gentlemen who had wounded him to death. The abbot so doing, the gentlemen came, and the hermit being sore sick, said, ‘I am sure to die of these wounds.” The abbot answered, “They shall die for thee.” But the hermit said, ‘Not so, for I freely forgive them my death, if they be content to be enjoymed to this penance, for the safe- guard of their souls.” The gentlemen being there present, [and terrified with the fear of death, bid him enjoyn what he would, so he saved their lives. Then said the hermit, “You and yours shall hold your lands of the abbot of Whitby, and his successors, in this manner, That upon Ascension eve, you, or some for you, shall come to the wood of the Stray-Head, which is in Eskdale-Side, the Salſile day at sun-rising, and there shall the officer of the abbot blow his horn, to the intent that you may know how to find him, and he shall deliver unto you, William de Bruce, ten stakes, ten strout- stowers, and ten yedders, to be cut by you, or those that come for you, with a knife of a penny price ; and you, Ralph de Piercie, shall take one-and-twenty of each sort, to be cut in the same manner; and you, Allatson, shall take nine of each sort, to be cut as aforesaid; and to be taken on your backs and carried to the town of Whitby, and so to be there before mine of the clock of the same day aforementioned. And at the hour of nine of the clock, (if it be full sea, to cease that service,) as long as it is low water, at nine of the clock, the same hour each of you shall set your stakes at the brim of the water, each stake a yard from another, and so yedder them as with your yedders, and so stake on each side with your strout-stowers, that they stand three tides without removing by the force of the water. Each of you shall make them in several places at the hour aforenamed, (except it be full sea at that hour, which when it shall happen to pass, that service shall cease,) and you shall do this service in re- membrance that you did [most cruelly] slay me. And that you may the better call to God for repentance, and find mercy, and do good works, the officer of Eskdale-Side shall blow his horn, “Out on you, out on you, out on you; for the heinous crime of you.” And if you and your successors do refuse this service, so long as it shall not be full at sea at that hour aforesaid, you and yours shall forfeit all your lands to the abbot [of Whitby] or his successors. Thus I do entreat the abbot, that you may have your lives and goods for this service, and you to promise by your parts in heaven that it shall be done by you and your successors, as it is aforesaid.’ And the abbot said, ‘I grant all that you have said, and will confirm it by the faith of an honest man.” Then the hermit said, “My soul longeth for the Lord, and I do as freely forgive these gentlemen my death as Christ forgave the thief upon the cross.’ And in the presence of the abbot and the rest, he said, “In manus tuas, Domine, commendo spiritum meum : [a vinculis enim mortis] redemisti me, Domine veritatis.-Amen.’ - “And so he yielded up the ghost, the eighteenth day of December, upon whose soul God have mercy. —Amen. Anno Domini, 1160. [1159.]” The horngarth, or stake and yether hedge, here spoken of, was a fence constructed every year, to CHAP. H. Monastery pillaged. 440 f HISTORY OF B O O K VII. Dissolu- tion. Family of Cholmley. The abbey time it flourished exceedingly, through the favour of princes and nobles. It was surrendered to the crown on December 14, 1539. Its revenues, according to Speed, who gives the gross annual rent, amounted to £505. 9s. 1d. but the net rent, as stated by Dugdale, was £437.2s. out of which £188. 5s. 4d. was paid in pensions to the abbot and monks, who surrendered the monastery. After the dissolution, the site of the abbey and its lands came, partly by grant and partly by purchase, into the possession of Sir Richard Cholmley, a descendant of Hugh Cholmondeley, who was a branch of the Cholmondeleys of Cheshire, a family which may be traced at least as far back as the Norman conquest. The contraction of the surname of the Yorkshire family is said, by Charlton, to have taken place about the reign of Henry VII. or VIII. - - The family of the Cholmleys has produced several persons eminent both in peace and in war. Among these was Sir Hugh Cholmley, who in the time of war bravely defended the castle of Scarborough, for the space of more than twelve months, against the parliamentarian army. During the whole time of the siege, his lady remained with him in the castle, and attended the sick and the wounded. At length, having surrendered on honourable terms, in 1645, Sir Hugh and his family went into exile, his estates were sequestered, and his mansion at Whitby was converted into a garrison, and plundered of every thing valuable by the parliament's troops. He continued in exile till 1649, when his brother, Sir Henry Cholmley, found means to appease the parliament, and he was permitted to return to England; after which he joined with his brother, Sir Henry, and Sir Richard Crispe, in erecting an alum- work at Saltwick, which brought a great influx of inhabitants to Whitby. About the middle of the last century the family left Whitby, and retired to Howsham, near Malton, which has ever since been their chief country residence. - - Of Whitby abbey nothing is now left standing but the ruins of the church, the dimensions of which, according to Charlton, were as follows :— Feet Length. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 Breadth of the nave ...'. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Extent of the transepts, from north to south ............ ... 150 Height of the nave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Height of the tower, which rose from the centre of the cross... 150 Only a very small part of this once superb structure now remains for the inspection of the antiquary. - . This venerable ruin stands in a commanding situation, on a high cliff, on the east side of the town, which it overlooks. The eminence on which it is seated is steep keep out the cattle from the landing-place for goods on the east side of the Eske. This was a service- which had from time immemorial been performed by the tenants of the abbey; and after that circum- stances had rendered the horngarth unnecessary, the ceremony is still continued on Ascension eve. - 3.z ºlºšljillº *: º º º º ºlºš º - - º ill º ºlºº £º º º - % % ſ % | Bºº Fºutſ $ s º §§ º º N ſ º * \º º º Drawn by H.Gastºneau. - - Engraved on Steelby Rºwºhles. whº tº ſº. A jºiº. London Published by JT Hinton Nº.4 Warwick Square June 1829. THE COUNTY OF YORK. - 441. towards the town, but declines very gently towards the south-west. It appears to be. at least eighty yards above the level of the sea, from which the monastery is about a quarter of a mile distant, and commands a picturesque view of the town, the river Eske, and a beautiful country, with the frowning heights of the black moors rising in the horizon. - - ...” This church is, as usual, of the cruciform shape, having a nave and choir with aisles, transepts, and a lofty tower at the intersection. The ruins present us with the choir, or eastern part of the church, which has lost its south aisle; the north transept, nearly entire; and considerable portions of the north wall of the nave, and of the western wall or front of the building. Previous to the 25th of June, 1830, this noble ruin was adorned with a central tower one hundred and four feet high, sup- ported by four massy clustered columns. It fell on the above day, having for some years past exhibited rapid symptoms of decay. The south side has suffered most; for, along with the south aisle of the choir, the south transept has almost entirely disappeared, and the south wall of the nave is lying a mass of ruins, having fallen about the year 1762. - • - - This large and elegant church was probably erected on or near the site of the Saxon church belonging to the ancient monastery of Hilda or Ælfleda; but the present ruins exhibit no vestige of that ancient church, nor even of the church that was first built here after the Conquest; the whole obviously belonging to later periods. The choir is evidently the most ancient portion, exhibiting some pleasing specimens of the single lancet style of architecture. The second is of a later date, and the last is the rich florid Gothic. - The cemetery of this monastery was situate on the north side of the church; and here stood the cross, now removed to the abbey plain. Since the dissolution, it has been elevated on steps, raising it to a height of about twenty feet. The hospital of Whitby, which was founded in 1109 by Abbot Percy, was situated on the south side of Spital Brigg. Some remains of it still exist. - Exclusive of the church, there are nine places of public worship in this town; viz. in Baxtergate is a chapel of ease, erected in 1778, (it is a plain edifice of brick, capable of accommodating 800 persons, and has a small spire at the west end; the Friends' meeting house was first erected in 1676, and was rebuilt in 1813; the old Presbyterian chapel in Flowergate was built in 1812; the United Associates, or New Presbyterians, have a chapel in Cliff lane, erected in 1790; the Wesleyans have two chapels, erected in 1788 and 1814; the Primitive Methodist chapel was built in 1821; the Independent chapel in 1805; and the Catholic chapel was erected in the same year. . . . * - Among the charitable institutions, the Seamen's hospital deserves notice. It took its rise in the beginning of 1676, and now consists of an hospital, containing forty- WOL. III, 5 U. CHAP. I, mas-s-smºms Plan. Chapels. Charities. 442 a’ HISTORY OF B O O K VII. Schools. Museum. Town hall. Seats. two houses or rooms, forming a centre with wings. The money distributed yearly among the widows and their children, resident in this asylum, amounts to £300. The dispensary was established in 1786; and the Dorcas society for clothing the aged female poor, in 1814. , There are several public schools on the Lancasterian and Madras systems, in which several hundred children of both sexes receive education. • Though Whitby has not been much distinguished as the seat of learning, at least in modern times, yet its literary institutions are by no means contemptible. The Whitby subscription library was commenced in 1775, and now contains above five thousand three hundred volumes. The botanic garden was established in 1812, and the Literary and Philosophical society in 1823. The latter has a museum in a new and elegant building in the centre of the town. * The Town hall is almost the only public building in Whitby that deserves a name. It is the office where the manorial courts are held, and where the inhabitants usually meet for any public purpose. This building, having become decayed, was taken down by the late N. Cholmley, Esq., who, in 1788, erected the present edifice; the lower part of which is open as a piazza, and the upper part adorned with a cupola and clock. d In the immediate neighbourhood of Whitby are the following seats: Airy hill, Richard Moorsom, Esq.; Meadow field, H. Simpson, Esq.; Field house, Christ -Richardson, Esq.; Lower Stakesley, A. Chapman, Esq.; Prospect hill, Miss Boulby; the Mount, William Reynolds, Esq.; and about a mile further is Larpool hall, the seat of T. Turton, Esq. There are several other good houses in the neighbourhood of this town. The mansion of the honourable family of the Cholmleys, situate on the hill on the east side of the town, between the church and the ruins of the abbey, is a spacious building; but the proprietor seldom makes it his residence. A number of good farm houses and beautiful enclosures contribute to enliven the appearance of the country. * The neighbourhood of Whitby abounds with natural curiosities; and the various petrifactions almost everywhere found in the alum-rocks, have long excited wonder, and puzzled philosophy.* - - * Among the curiosities which abound on this part of the coast are the ammonitae, or snake-stones, found in almost every place where the alum-rock exists, and particularly in Whitby scar, between high- water and low-water mark. “This scar, or rock, is formed by a stratum of alum-mine, nearly on a level with the surface of the ocean; and the snakes are all enclosed in hard elliptical stones, which seem to have been stuck therein, being coiled up in spiral volutes, and everywhere resembling that animal in their form and shape, save only in the head, which is always wanting. They are of two different species, some of them being round-bodied, fluted, or infilated, while others are flat-bodied, ridged on their backs, and pitted on their sides. The round-bodied snakes are girt or encompassed, from end to end, with semi-circular channels, or cavities, the appearance of which is just the reverse to that of a cask, THE COUNTY OF YORK. - 443 Eskdaleside is a township in this parish, containing three hundred and ninety-five inhabitants. Here was formerly a hermitage, but when or by whom it was founded, or at what time it ceased to be used as such, is not known; from Young's History of Whitby, it appears that it had been converted into an ordinary chapel previous to 1226. The chapel, which was called St. John's, is now in ruins, and in which state it appears to have been in 1774, when Grose took the view which he has inserted in his Antiquities. - - . At Sleights is a chapel of ease, erected in 1762; it is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £93. 9s. 4d. Here are the seats of C. Coates, Esq., and Mrs. Bateman. - - Hawsker with Stainsacre contains six hundred and thirty-four inhabitants. Here was formerly a chapel to Whitby, dedicated to All Saints; an ancient cross, six feet and a half high, neatly carved on all sides, is almost the only thing remaining to point out the site. - - -- Newholme with Dunsley has two hundred and fifty-nine inhabitants. It is a small village, situate upon the bay, called by Ptolemy, Dunus Sinus. That this was a landing-place used by the Romans, is evident from an inscription on a stone, dug up here in the year 1774; by which it appears that the Emperor Justinian built a bound about with wooden hoops contiguous to each other ; for the hoops are convex, or raised above the body of the cask, whereas these rings are concave, or let into the body of the snake. The other species of snakes have a ridge on their backs, and are flatted on the sides, as if they had been pressed together; the marks where with they are pitted or indented resembling the impression made by a man’s thumb on a soft substance. The stones wherein these snakes are enclosed must be broken very care- fully, otherwise the snake will break also. The impression which the snake leaves on its bed, or nidus, within the stone, is very perfect and beautiful. Sometimes the body of the snake is powdered with shining specks, and sometimes it is of a bright yellow colour, as if it were gilt. The snake seems to be a diffe- rent mineral from the stone in which it is enclosed; and when broken, its substance within resembles saltpetre in colour, transparency, and hardness. These snakes are of various sizes, the spiral convo- lutions being from one to six inches in diameter: the flatted snakes are the largest; but the round. bodied infilated snakes are not only the most numerous, but also the most beautiful. These ammonitae are noticed by Camden, Leland, and others; , and both of them observe that fame ascribes them to the power of St. Hilda's prayers.-Camden's Brit. - - “Mr. Charlton says, that it is yet a constant tradition among the vulgar in that part of the country that these were real snakes, with which Whitby and its vicinity were infested, and which being driven over the cliff by Lady Hilda, and losing their heads by the fall, were afterwards, by her prayers, trans- formed into stones. Such is the 'credulity and superstition of the multitude : it is needless to say that these monkish miracles and absurd legends are treated with contempt by all persons of an enlightened understanding. The historian of Whitby adopts the opinion of Dr. Lister, Camerarius, and others, who suppose all the petrifactions resembling shell-fish, or other animals, found in rocks, or on mountains, &c. to be mere lusus naturae, or lapides-sui generis, produced by fermentation, or by some peculiar property inherent in all alum-mines; and he opposes the hypothesis of those who imagine that they have once been living creatures, and been brought into their present situation by some violent convulsion of the earth, either at the time of the Deluge or at some other period, grounding his arguments on the regularity of the strata near the surface.”—Bigland's Yorkshire, p. 338. *** *- CHAP. I. Eskdale- side. Sleights. Hawsker with Stainsacre. Newholme with Dunsley. 444 HISTORY OF Bººk maritime fort or castle here, from which is a Roman road extending for many miles — over the moors to York, called Wade’s causeway. The Danes, in the year 867, landed at this place with a numerous army, and spread desolation and misery over all the country. - g Ruswarp. Ruswarp is a considerable township, having one thousand nine hundred and eighteen inhabitants. Here is the neat seat of Miss Pennyman; and Sneaton castle, the seat of the late Col. Wilson. - §. Ugglebarnby” has four hundred and twenty-eight inhabitants. The chapel here is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £48. 2s. : patron, the archbishop of York. - * '' . Aislaby. At Aislaby are the handsome seats of M. Noble, and J. Benson, Esqrs. The - chapel here is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £45: patron, J. Boulby, Esq. f - g : Hackness. HACKNEss is a romantic parish, situate about four miles from Scarborough. In 1821, the township contained one hundred and forty-three inhabitants. This small village is situate in a most romantic and delightful vale, from which several others run in various directions of the country. The principal road thither from Scarborough lies over Haybrow, a lofty eminence, from the summit of which is a noble view of the castle, the coast, and the ocean. The subjacent country, and the village of Scalby, also form a picturesque landscape. In the descent from this hill to the vale, of Hackness, the road lies along the precipitous edge of a glen, of which the sides are adorned with lofty trees. This deep and picturesque ravine, which lies to the left of the road, meeting at length with another from the right, which is equally romantic, their junction forms the commencement of the valley of Hackness. In proceeding a little way farther are two other glens, of which the declivities to the bottom are covered with a profusion of wood. At the western extremity, the valley divides itself into two branches: one of these, in which the present village of Hack- ness is seated, runs into the moors; through the other the Derwent pursues its course towards the village of Ayton. The hills which surround the vale of Hackness are from one hundred to one hundred and twenty yards in perpendicular height, and their steep declivities are profusely adorned with lofty trees of the richest foliage. The hand of nature, indeed, has here been lavish of her embellishments, and has moulded these sylvan scenes into such different forms and projections, as render them at once sublime and beautiful. Springs of water bursting from the sides of the hills in natural cascades, or falling with gentle murmurs, contribute to enliven the scenery ; and the Derwent, which has its source in the mountainous country to the north, glides with a gentle stream past the village, to the westward of which the bleak and barren moors form a striking contrast to the luxuriant scenes of Hackness. • Here is Newton house, the seat of J. Moss, Esq. º n THE COUNTY OF YORK. 445 The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a very ancient structure; the living is a perpetual curacy, in the patronage of Sir J. W. B. Johnstone, Bart., M.P., and is of the clear yearly value of £21. - Here, in 1088, Serlo, prior of Whitby, built a cell for monks, subordinate to Whitby, and King William Rufus granted them 'six carucates of land in Hack- ness and Northfield. . There had previously been a cell here, built by Lady Hilda, abbess of Whitby, in 680, for eight nuns. At the Dissolution, it contained four monks of the order of Benedictines. The very elegant mansion at this place was built by the late Sir Richard Wanden Bempdé Johnstone, Bart.* - Broad (population sixty-one), Harwood Dale ºf with Silpho, (population ninety- six), and Suffield with Everley (population ninety-seven), contain nothing further deserving notice. - - SNEATON, a small parish town, three miles from Whitby, contains two hundred and fifty-one inhabitants. The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £13. 8s. 6d. : patron, the king. The castle here, a large and well-built edifice, commanding a fine view of Whitby and the sea, was the seat of the late Col. Wilson, M. P. for York. - FYLINGDALEs is a small parish, four miles from Whitby, with a population of one thousand seven hundred and two. The living is a perpetual curacy, of the clear yearly value of £21: in the patronage of the archbishop of York. Robin Hood's Bay is a small fishing-town, formerly noted for being the retreat of that famous captain and his banditti, who, when closely pursued, had always in readiness at this place a number of small fishing-vessels, in which, putting off to sea, he eluded the vigilance of his pursuers, and bid defiance to the whole power of the English nation, civil and military. The extensive alum-mines here, and their crystallized excavations, form the principal attractions of the place.f. CHAP. I. Church... . Cell. Broxa. Harwood Dale with Silpho. - Suffield with Everley. Sneaton. Fyling- dales. Robin Hood’s Bay. * Mr. Cole, of Scarborough, has made some curious collections towards a history of this parish, which he is preparing for publication. ł Here is a small chapel of ease to Hackness. f Near this place is a precipitous cliff, called Stoupe Brow. The road from Robin Hood's Bay to Stoupe Brow is along the sandy beach, under a high and steep cliff, to which the sea flows as the - tide advances; and the passage is unsafe, unless there be, when the traveller sets out, a spacious area of the sand not covered by the water, or the tide be receding. The residence of Sunderland Cooke, Esq. is at Stoupe hall, in this township. The height of Stoupe Brow is eight hundred and ninety-three feet; and few appearances in mature are more awfully grand than the view from its summit. As the declivity of Stoupe Brow is impracticable to carriages, the main road from Whitby and Robin Hood's Bay to Scarborough lies over the moors, in some places near the edge of the cliff. On this road, in the year 1809, there happened an accident, of which the circumstances, were they not so well attested as to leave no room for doubt, would appear absolutely impossible.—A lady and two young gentlemen, travelling in a post-chaise to Scarborough, the driver, on some occasion, alighted, and the horses, being left to themselves, immediately struck into a gallop. Before they had proceeded far, both the horses and chaise fell over the cliff, down a tremendous precipice of nearly one hundred feet WOL. III. 5 x 446 HISTORY OF B O O K. - VII. -- Pickering Lythe. Scarbo- rough. The wapentake of Pickering Lythe contains the parishes of ALLERSTON, ELLERBURN, LEVISHAM, SEAMER, B ROMPTON, FILEY, MIDDLETON, SINNINGTON, CAYTON, HUTTON BUSHELL, PICKERING, THORNTON DALE, EBBERSTON, Kirkby Mispenton, scAlby, WYKEHAM, AND THE BOROUGH OF SCARBOROUGH. ScARBorough is a parish, borough, and market” town, situate in the recess of a beautiful bay, on the shore of the German ocean, and in a situation nearly central between Flamborough head and Whitby. It is forty miles from York, and two hundred and seventeen from London, by Lincoln. - The origin of this place is not known, but its ancient name, Scearburg, is of Saxon derivation: scean, or Scar, signifying a rock, and Bungh, a fortified place. The town rises from the shore in the form of an amphitheatre, ledge towering over ledge; and the concave slope of its semicircular bay has a very picturesque appearance. The situation, which is admired for its various beauties, is thus described by the late Mr. Hinderwell, the elegant historian of Scarborough. “To the east stand the ruins of the ancient castle, whose venerable walls adorn the summit of a lofty promontory. To the south is a vast expanse of ocean, a scene of the highest magnificence, where fleets of ships are frequently passing. The recess of the tide leaves a spacious area upon the sands, equally convenient for exercise and sea bathing. The refreshing gales of the ocean, and the shades of the neigh- bouring hills, give an agreeable temperature to the air during the sultry heats of summer, and produce a grateful serenity.” There is some reason to believe that Scarborough has been a Saxon town, and perhaps on a Roman foundation; and the various advantages of its situation tend to favour this opinion. There is not, however, any mention of this place in Domesday; the Danish invasions, the destructive contests of the Northum- brian princes, and the vindictive policy of the Norman conqueror, who desolated a great part of Yorkshire with fire and sword, might possibly have reduced this place to a miserable state of obscurity. In that ancient record is an account of Walesgrif, now Walsgrave or Falsgrave, which, before the Conquest, had belonged to Tosti, earl of Northumberland, and brother of Harold II., and in the manor of which Scarborough is included. F high, and of which about forty feet next to the bottom is a perpendicular rock. In its fall the chaise turned over three times, yet neither the horses, the chaise, nor the passengers, suffered any injury, except that the lady received a trifling scratch on the face, and the party immediately proceeded to Scar- borough. - - * The market is held on Thursdays and Saturdays, and fairs on Holy Thursday, and November 28. + “At that time, the manor and soke, containing eighty-four carucates, ad geldum, had on its lands one hundred and seven socmen, who cultivated forty-six carucates: at the time of the survey, there were ~ A - - - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 447 The first authentic record, indicating a period when Scarborough had begun to CHAP.1. emerge from obscurity, is a charter granted to the town by Henry II., which Charter. shows that it must, in that early age, have been a place of some importance. In the year 1252, Henry III. granted a patent for making a new pier at Scardeburg; and in one of the charters of that prince, recited and confirmed by Edward III. in 1356, mention is repeatedly made of the new town, in contradistinction to the old.* Leland gives the following description of this place in the reign of Henry VIII. “Scardeburg toune, though it be privilegid, yet ‘it semith to be yn Pickering Lithe, for the castelle of Scardeburg is countid of the jurisdiction of Pickering, and the shore from Scardeburg to the very point of Philaw bridge by the Se, about vi miles from Scardeburg towards Bridlington, is of Pickering Lith jurisdiction. Scardeburg, where it is not defendid by the Warth and the Se, * is waullid a little with ston, but most with ditches and walls of yerth. In the toune , to entre by land be but two gates: Newburgh gate meately good, and Aldeburgh gate very base. The toune stondith hole on a slaty clife, and shoith very faire to the Se side. Ther is but one paroche chirch in the toune of our Ladie, joyning almost to the castelle: it is very faire, and isled on the sides, and crosse isled, and hath three auncient towres for belles, with pyramides on them, whereof two toures be at the weste ende of the chirch, and one in the middle of the crosse isle. There is a greate chapelle by side, by the Newborow gate. - “There were in the toune three howsis of freres, gray, blacke, and white. “At the south-est point of Scardeburg toune, by the shore, is a bulwark, now yn ruine by the Se rage, made by Richard the Third, that lay awhile at Scardeburg castelle; and beside began to waul a pece of the toun quadrato saxo; i. e. with squared stone. *-w -- - “Ther cummith, by south-este of the bulwark, a rill of fresch water, and so goith into the Se. . . . . - - “I hard ther of an old mariner that Henry the First gave grete privilege to the toun of Scardeburg. up - “The peere whereby socour is made for shippes is now sore decayid, and that almost in the midle of it.”f - - The town of Scarborough was anciently confined within narrow limits, and might probably, at first, have consisted of the habitations of fishermen, which, for the convenience of the fishery, would be situate near the sea shore. As it increased in respectability and opulence, it gradually ascended the hill to the west. **.* only seven socmen, fifteen villains, and fourteen bordars, who had only seven and a half carucates; the rest of the land was waste, an evident proof of great desolation.”—Bigland. * Hinderwell's Hist. Scarborough, Sec. 2 and 3. a t Leland, Itin. vol. i. 448 HISTORY OF .B O O K VII. Ancient walls. Piers. Harbour. Some of the foundations of the ancient walls are yet remaining, and the line of their direction may be traced, so as to ascertain the boundaries with sufficient accuracy; and it is evident that the old town has not extended westward beyond the present market-cross. The town appears to have been defended on the west towards the land, and on the south-east towards the sea, by strong walls; on the north by a deep moat and mounds of earth; whilst the castle cliff formed a defence on the east totally inaccessible. The markets appear to have been, at different periods, held in dif- ferent parts of the town: the remains of a very ancient market-cross are yet visible at the low conduit; and public proclamations continue to be read there and at the sandgate.* The piers for the security of the shipping seem to date their origin from the time of Henry II., who, in the thirty-sixth year of his reign, A. D. 1252, granted to the bailiffs, burgesses, and inhabitants of Scarborough, certain duties, to be taken during the space of five years, on all merchant ships and fishing-vessels, in order to enable them “to make a new port with timber and stone.” . In the year 1546, the thirty-seventh of Henry VIII., an act of parliament was passed, imposing a duty for the purpose of repairing the pier. The confined state of the harbour and the insufficiency of the ancient pier being represented to parliament, an act was passed in the fifth of George II. for enlarging the pier and the harbour, the cost being estimated at £12,000. By this act, which is called the New Pier Act, a duty of a halfpenny per chaldron is imposed upon all coals laden in any ship or vessel from Newcastle, or ports belonging to it; together with sundry other duties on imports, exports, and shipping, payable in Scarborough. In consequence of this act, an experienced engineer was employed; and an addition was made to the whole pier, the whole length of which, including the additional work, is one thousand two hundred feet; the breadth is irregular, from thirteen to eighteen feet; the new part is wider than the old; and near the extremity measures forty-two feet. Notwithstanding this enlargement of the old pier, it was, by experience, found inadequate to the intended purposes; and, upon mature consideration, the com- missioners judged it expedient, in order to increase the capacity of the harbour still more, and obtain a greater depth of water, to build a new pier, sweeping into the sea, with a large portion of a circle. This was an undertaking of great magnitude, it being necessary to build it of extraordinary dimensions, to resist the violence of the waves in so exposed a situation. The foundation of this pier is sixty feet in breadth, and at the curvature, where there is the greatest force of s' • In the reign of Edward VI., the market was kept on the sands. See Hinderwell, p. 62 and 63. + Mr. Hinderwell enumerates a variety of grants of port duties made in the reigns of different kings of England, for repairing the port of Scarborough, - - w #. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 449 N. the sea, it is sixty-three feet. The breadth at the top is forty-two feet, and the CHAP. i. elevation of the pier is forty feet. The ponderous rocks used in the building of the - new pier are taken from a quarry called the White Nab, an opposite point about two miles distant; and conveyed in flat-bottomed vessels, called floats. This quarry (about a mile beyond the spa) is a great natural curiosity, and worthy of observation. It is a vast bed of flat rocks lying upon the shore in regular strata. They are sepa- rated without much difficulty, are of a close texture, and almost impenetrable to the tool by their extreme hardness. Iron chains are fixed to them when dry at low water; and, as the tide flows, the floats, when there is a sufficient depth of water, take them in by means of cranes fixed on board for the purpose. Some of the largest blocks are only weighed as high as the bow and stern of the vessels, and, suspended by the chains, are thus conveyed to the pier.” T . e The harbour of Scarborough is the only port between the Humber and Tinemouth Port. haven, where ships of large burden can find refuge in violent gales of wind from the east; and it has frequently afforded the means of preserving the vessels, their cargoes, and the lives of the mariners. It is easy of access, and has a sufficient depth of water, at full tide, to admit ships of large burden.t . The situation of the harbour unfortunately exposes it to be warped up with sand; and as there is no natural stream to counteract the effects, by scouring, it seems beyond the power of art to devise an effectual remedy. The floating sand, brought in by the tide, subsiding by its gravity in still water, gradually accumulates; and the more quiescent the state of the harbour, the greater the accumulation. The agita- tion of the sea, in strong gales of wind from the east, is the most powerful agent for cleansing; hence we find that, by the action of the waves, in the storms of winter, the sand collected in the moderate weather of summer is in a great degree removed; otherwise the harbour would, in process of time, be entirely choked up. Some idea may be formed of the alarming progress of the encroaching sand, by reflecting, that ~ Quay-street has evidently formed a part of the old harbour, mooring-posts having been discovered in the cellars of some of the houses in that situation; and it is within the memory of some old men yet living, when fish were taken with angling- lines, towards high water, from the staith on the sands, where the sea now scarcely washes at high spring-tides. - - Scarborough is a borough, and sends two members to parliament. It was incor- Borough. porated by charter in the reign of Henry II. ; and its customs, liberties, &c., were * Hinderwell’s History of Scarborough, p. 164, &c. Some of these stones weigh from twenty to thirty tons. . - g + “The depth of the water at the extremity of the pier, at full spring-tides, is from twenty to twenty- four feet; at low water, only three or four feet.”—Hinderwell. - # Some very judicious remarks and scientific reasoning on these subjects may be seen in Hinderwell's Hist. Scarborough, sect. 5. - vol. III. 5 Y 450 - - - HISTORY OF - sº B O O K . VII. Castle. confirmed by King John and Henry III. It ranks among the most ancient boroughs that sent members to parliament. The earliest grant for murage or tolls for en- closing and fortifying the town, occurs in the ninth year of Henry III. ; and the most ancient record of pavage, or grant of tolls for paving the town, bears date in the twenty-eighth of Edward III. ; although the Dominicans had paved a street in Scarborough in the reign of Edward I. The corporation consists of two bailiffs, two coroners, four chamberlains, and a common council of thirty-six members, classed into three benches, or twelves.* - The ancient and stupendous castle, once the glory, and still the ornament of Scarborough, was built in the reign of King Stephen, by William le Gros, earl of Albemarle and Holderness. Here Piers de Gaveston, the favourite of Edward II., sought refuge against the exasperated barons ; but, after a short siege, he was obliged to surrender, for want of supplies, and lost his head, as already related, in the castle of Deddington.f Robert Aske, the leader of the Pilgrims of Grace, made an unsuccessful attempt upon Scarborough castle in 1536. In the time of Wyat’s rebellion, in 1553, it was surprised and taken by the stratagem of introducing a number of soldiers disguised as peasants. This achievement was performed by Thomas, second son of Lord Stafford : but his success was of short duration, for three days afterwards the place was retaken by the earl of Westmoreland; and Stafford and three other of the leaders were conveyed to London, and executed for high treason. During the civil wars, in the calamitous reign of Charles I., this castle was twice besieged, and taken by the parliamentary army. The first siege lasted for twelve months; and Sir John Meldrum, by whom the forces of parliament were commanded, fell before the works. The command of the besieging army then devolved upon Sir Matthew Boynton, to whom Sir Hugh Cholmley, the governor, was obliged to surrender on the 22d of July, 1645. Colonel Boynton, the successor of the baronet, having declared for the king, the castle once more came into the hands of the royalists; but the garrison growing mutinous, the colonel was obliged to capitulate, and on the 19th of December, 1648, the fortress was again surrendered to parliament, and taken possession of, in their name, by Col. Bethel.$. This castle, sharing the fate of its fellows, was dismantled by order of parliament. But, on the breaking out of the rebellion in 1745, it underwent a temporary repair; and when the danger was over, the present barracks, containing twelve apartments, were * “In the parliament that was held in the year 1282, the eleventh of Edward I., Scarborough was the only town in Yorkshire, except the city of York, that was summoned to send representatives. The arms of the borough bear the marks of considerable antiquity. A ship of the rudest form, a watch-tower and a star, appear on the cominon seal. Its registry in the Herald's college is without date, and is there classed among the most ancient. The bailiff's seal of office is a ship only, of very antique form, with two towers on the deck, and a smaller one at the top of the mast.”—Cole's Scarborough Album. - + Vide vol. i. p. 41. # Ibid. p. 71. § Ibid. p. 104. | -- THE CO UNTY OF YORK. 451 erected, and will accommodate one hundred and twenty soldiers. Since that time, three batteries have been erected for the protection of the town and harbour, two of them at the south, and one at the north side of the castle yard. ... - The ruins of this ancient castle are situate at the eastern extremity of the town, on a lofty promontory, elevated more than three hundred feet on the southern, and three hundred and thirty on the northern side, above the level of the sea; and pre- senting to the north, the east, and the south, a vast range of perpendicular rock, completely inaccessible. Its western aspect also is bold and majestic, being a high, steep, and rocky slope, commanding the town and the bay. The level area, at the top of the hill, is upwards of nineteen acres of excellent soil, gently sloping nearly twenty feet from the northern to the southern side. Under an arched vault, towards the eastern side of the castle yard, near the site of the ancient chapel, and within thirty yards of a perpendicular cliff, is a reservoir of water, called the Lady's well, and supposed to have been dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It is difficult to determine from what souree this spring is supplied, as the nearest land, of equal or greater elevation, is more than a mile distant, and with which it does not appear to have the least communication. The following circumstance is mentioned, as offering the most probable solution of the difficulty. “It is said that the engineer who superintended the building of the barracks, and other military works, about the year 1746, ordered the workmen to dig a circular trench round the reservoir, in order to trace the source; and that they discovered several subterraneous drains or channels, which appeared to have been made for the purpose of conducting into it the rain water that might fall on the Castle hill.” - - This reservoir, when full, contains about forty tons of water, which is very trans- parent, and has been found, by experiment, to weigh lighter, by one ounee in the Winchester gallon, than any other water in the vicinity. - The approach to the castle is by a gateway, on the summit of a narrow isthmus, on the western side above the town. Without the ditch is an outwork, which was the ancient barbacan. At a small distance, within the gate, was formerly the draw- bridge, and under it a very deep fosse, which extends to the southward, along the foot of the western declivity of the castle hill, the whole length of the line of the CHAP. I. 'Survey. wall. Within the drawbridge is an easy but narrow ascent to the keep, or dungeon, * For the illustration of this curious subject, it may not be amiss to observe, that if we suppose only twenty-four inches of rain to fall every year on the Castle hill, and allow that what fails on two acres of ground, round the edges of the area, drips into the sea, we shall find, by an accurate calculation, that if only one-fourth part of the water that falls on the remaining seventeen acres can be collected, and breught to the reservoir, it will amount to two millions, two hundred and sixty-eight thousand, seven hundred and eighty gallons annually, or about six thousand, two hundred and sixteen gallons per day, of Winchester ale-measure ; a circumstance which seems to afford an easy solution to this problem of natural history. - 452 - History of **** a very lofty square tower of Norman architecture, which appears majestic, even in - ruins. It is ninety-seven feet high, and in its original state its height can scarcely have been less than one hundred and twenty feet, having been crowned with an em- battled parapet. The walls of this tower are twelve feet thick, cased with square stone; and the mortar, having been mixed in a fluid state, has acquired a consis- tency that renders it harder and more durable than even the stone itself. The different stories, as in other structures of this sort, have been vaulted and divided by strong arches: those of the windows are semicircular, supported by round pillars, and are larger than is usual in such buildings. The area of the ballium, in which the tower is situate, contains above half an acre of ground. From hence to the southern. extremity of the castle yard the summit of the hill was defended on the western side by an embattled wall, flanked with numerous semicircular towers, with apertures, from whence arrows and other missiles were discharged; but these are now falling into rapid decay. It is also said, that large and ponderous pieces of timber were so placed as to be in constant readiness to be rolled down upon an enemy attempting to approach the walls. - From a view of the venerable ruins of this once formidable castle may be perceived the extreme difficulty that must have attended any hostile attempt against a fortress rendered so strong both by nature and art, especially, when it is considered that battering-engines could not be brought to act against the walls, by reason of the steep declivity in front. It therefore appears, that before the invention of artillery this ancient and famous castle was absolutely impregnable. jºy of The town is well built; and various circumstances concur to render it a charming & summer's retreat. The principal streets in the upper town are spacious and well paved, with excellent flagged footways on each side; and the houses have, in general, a handsome appearance. The new buildings on the cliff stand almost unrivalled, in respect of situation, having in front a beautiful terrace, elevated nearly a hundred feet above the level of the sands, and commanding a variety of delightful prospects. -As lodging-houses, these buildings are equally elegant, commodious, pleasant, and healthy, being agreeably ventilated by refreshing breezes from the sea. In different parts of the town there are many excellent lodging-houses, where visitors may be accommodated in a genteel and agreeable manner. There are gardens with public walks, which, for a trifling subscription, afford a pleasant and salubrious amuse- ment; and an elegant assembly-room, and a handsome theatre, are alternately open in the summer evenings. The shops are well stored with various articles of utility and elegance. - - Church. The benefice of Scarborough is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £13.6s. 8d.: patron, Lord Hotham. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, formerly belonged to the Cistercian monastery here established. The abbot was rector of Scarborough, - THE county of York. 453 and the vicar was appointed by him, and removable at his pleasure. After many chap. 1. changes and different grants, both before and since the Reformation, the rectory and patronage are now held by Sir Wotham, Bart., of South Dalton, in the East /~ riding. - r r This church was formerly a spacious and magnificent structure. The ruins of the chancel still seen in the eastern part of the church-yard, the dismembered appear- ance of the western end of the church, the subterraneous arches extending to the west, and the great quantity of foundation stones, discovered in the new burial ground contiguous to it, are sufficient proofs that it is, in its present state, only a small part of a vast edifice which may have formed the Cistercian abbey and the church. In the time of Henry VIII. it was, according to Leland, adorned with three ancient towers, two of which were at the west end, and the other was over the centre of the transept. This last, having been greatly shaken during the siege of the castle in the year 1644, fell in October, 1659, and considerably injured a great part of the nave. The present steeple, which now stands singularly at the east end of the church, was erected on the ruins, and occupies the place of the transept tower. The time and the cause of the demolition of the two western towers do not appear to be well ascertained.* In plan, this church now consists of a nave with a south aisle and chantry chapel, and two north aisles. There are several galleries, and a very good organ. In this church are several monuments, but none deserving particular notice. In the church- yard, on a large blue slab, is inscribed . “To the memory of Thomas Hinderwell, Esq., who died 22 October, 1825, aged eighty-one years. This philanthropic and amiable individual was the author of a valuable history of this town.” + A new church has been erected at the west end of the town, partly by a grant from New the commissioners for building new churches, and partly by subscription of the in- church. habitants: the first stone was laid October 26th, 1826, and the church was opened in 1829; it is of lancet architecture, from a design by Messrs. Atkinson and Sharpe, and has a neat tower at the west end. , . There are several other places of worship belonging to dissenters of different Chapels. denominations, viz. Independents in St. Sepulchre-street; Baptists, in West-gate; - Friends, near Cook's row; and Roman Catholies, Westgate. The Wesleyans have a chapel in Church street, and the Primitive Methodists in St.Sepulchre-street. The charitable institutions in Scarborough are numerous and well supported. The Charities. Amicable Society was founded by the late R. North, Esq., in 17 29, for clothing and • There were formerly three other churches in Scarborough: viz. St. Nicholas, on the cliff in the front of the new buildings; St. Sepulchre, in the street of that name; and St. Thomas, in Newborough, which was destroyed by fire of the guns from the castle during the siege in 1644. -- + A worthy successor, as an antiquary and as a man, John Cole, of Newborough, published an in- teresting memoir of this highly-gifted individual. - VOL. III. 5 Z 454 HISTORY OF B O O K. VII. Town hall. . Cliff bridge. educating the children of poor persons in this town; the school is a neat edifice in the northern part of the town. The Seamen's hospital, near the last mentioned edifice, is under the superintendence of the Trinity house, Deptford Strond. A sea- bathing infirmary was established here in 1811, through the persevering efforts of Archdeacon Wrangham. There are several charities in the gift of the corporation, which the limited space of this work will not allow us to particularize. There are few public buildings requiring particular notice. The town hall, in Longroom-street, is a plain edifice of brick; and the theatre, in Tanner-street, is an exceedingly mean edifice for so celebrated a watering place; the assembly rooms are at Donner's hotel, Longroom-street. } One of the most important improvements in this town was the erection of the Cliff bridge; the difficulty of access from the cliff to the spa had often been justly com- plained of by visitors, and R. Cattle, Esq., of York, projected the elegant edifice which now forms such a delightful promenade between the spa and the town: the first stone was laid November 29th, 1826, and the spa was opened July 19th, 1827; it cost nearly £8,000, which was raised in shares. There are four cast-iron arches, resting on pyramidal piers, seventy-five feet above high-water mark. | On the northern side of the bridge has been erected an elegant circular edifice with a dome, for the museum of the Philosophical Society, from a design by Messrs. Atkinson and Sharpe; the total expense, including the purchase of ground, fitting up, &c., is £1836. 7s. 11d. : the interior has a highly interesting series of geological curiosities, arranged in the most instructive and pleasing manner; the lower part is at present occupied as a news-room.* - The celebrated mineral waters of Scarborough, which have rendered the town a place of general resort for the nobility and gentry, who repair thither for the sake both of pleasure and health, owe their discovery to the following circumstance: “Mrs. Farrow, a sensible and intelligent lady, who lived at Scarborough about the year 1620, sometimes walked along the shore, and observing the stones, over which the waters passed, to have received a russet colour, and finding the water to have an acid taste, different from the common springs, and to receive a purple tincture from galls, thought it probably might have a medicinal property. Having, therefore, made an experiment herself, and persuaded others to do the same, it was found to be efficacious in some complaints, and became the usual physic of the inhabitants. Museum. Mineral Water S. * The museum was first opened for the purpose of lectures, &c. on the 12th of February, 1830, when Mr. Cole delivered the introductory one, which was “On Astronomy,” and, at other successive and stated periods, he lectured “On Architecture,” “On Oratory,” &c.; and we believe he is now pre- paring “An Essay, on the Life and Genius of John Thurston, the Artist, a native of Scarborough.” Besides this public collection of the productions of the Scarborough coast, should be mentioned the private museum of W. Bean, Esq. which comprises one of the finest collections of British shells in the empire, chiefly formed by the active and persevering research of the proprietor. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 455 It was afterwards in great reputation with the citizens of York, and the gentry of CHAP. I. the county, and at length, was so generally recommended, that several persons of quality came from a great distance to drink it; preferring the waters of this spa before all the others they had formerly frequented, even the Italian, French, and German.” “ - . Such was the origin of this famous fountain of health, which has maintained its reputation during the space of nearly two centuries. The spa-house is situate on the sea-shore, at the foot of the cliff, a little to the south of the town: in the year 1698 was built a cistern for collecting the waters. In the month of December, 1737, the staith of the spa, composed of a large body of stone, bound by timber, as a fence against the sea for the security of the spa-house, gave way in a most extraor- dinary manner. A great mass of the cliff, containing nearly an acre of pasture land, with the cattle grazing upon it, sunk perpendicularly several yards. As the ground sunk, the earth or sand under the cliff rose on the north and south sides of the staith, out of its natural position, above a hundred yards in length, and was in some places six, and in others seven yards above its former level. The spa-wells ascended with the earth or sand; but so soon as the latter began to rise, the water ceased running into the wells, and for a time seemed to be lost. The ground thus risen was twenty- six yards broad; and the staith, notwithstanding its immense weight, (computed at two thousand four hundred and sixty-three tons,) rose twelve entire feet higher than its former position, and was forced about twenty yards forward to the sea. The springs of the mineral waters were, by diligent search, recovered; and the staith being repaired, the spa continued in great reputation.'t No part of the British coast affords a situation more commodious for bathing than Bathing. Scarborough. The bay is spacious and open to the sea, and the water is pure and * Hinderwell's Hist. Scarborough, p. 172. - + The spas consist of two wells; the north or chalybeate well, and the south or saline well. Their waters have been repeatedly analyzed, but the results of different experiments are not found exactly to agree. The following analysis is considered as the nearest approximation to truth that has yet been published. The south well, or purging water, contains— The north well or chalybeate water— - t Grains - - Grains Vitriolated magnesia . . . . . . . . . 128 Vitriolated magnesia . . . . . . . . . 98 Muriated magnesia . . . . . . . . . . 16 Muriated magnesia . . . . . . . . . . 14 Carbonate of lime . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Carbonate of lime . . . . . . . . . . . 61,5 Carbonate of iron . . . . . . . . . . . 2,6 > Carbonate of iron . . . . . . . . . . 8 Vitriolated lime . . . . . . . . . . . . 58,4 Vitriolated lime . . . . . . . . . . . . 54,4 Muriated matron . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Muriated matron . . . . . . . . . . . 2, 1 237 233 Carbonic acid gas, or fixed air, ninety-eight Carbonic acid gas, one hundred ounce-mea- ounce-measures per gallon. sures per gallon. And each water contains • * a small quantity of phlogisticated air. t 456 - HISTORY OF B O O K. VII. transparent. The sand is clear, smooth and level, and the inclination of the beach towards the sea, is scarcely perceptible. No considerable river dilutes the brine, nor is the beach so extensive as to be uncomfortably hot, even under a summer's sun. The sea, in the month of August, is many degrees cooler than at Brighton, and possibly than at Weymouth, or any place southward of the Thames; and bathing may be performed at all times of the tide, and in almost all sorts of weather, with security and ease.* - - The population of Scarborough, in the year 1801, amounted to six thousand four hundred and nine; and that of Falsgrave, which is in the same parish, was two hundred and seventy-nine. By the returns in 1811, it appears that Scarborough contains six thousand five hundred and seventy-three, and Falsgrave three hundred and fifty-seven inhabitants; about five hundred may be regarded as a probable estimate of its fluctuating population of sailors, &c. In 1821, this borough town contained eight thousand one hundred and eighty-eight inhabitants, occupying one thousand seven hundred and forty-four houses. The climate is healthy;t the aver. age number of deaths being about one in forty-eight annually ; indeed, this place is remarkable for the longevity of several of its inhabitants.: - Near Scarborough the country is richly diversified with hills and dales, exhibiting every variety of romantic scenery. Towards the north, elevated moors of great extent raise their bleak and barren summits, forming a bold and striking contrast in the landscape to the highly cultivated country that lies to the westward. And to the south and south-west, the Wold hills, in the East riding, present another grand and extensive line of boundary to the prospect. Weaponness, or Oliver's mount,S little more than a mile from the town, possesses every requisite that can render an Popula- tion. * There are some excellent baths in this town: Travis's, on the Cliff, Harland's, in the New road, and Champley's, near the Cliff, are small, but fitted up with every necessary convenience. * “Scarborough appears, in a great measure, to owe its salubrity to its situation on the acclivity of a hill, lying exposed to the sun, well ventilated by the southerly and south-westerly winds, and by the current of air which accompanies every flowing tide. The winds from the north and north-east blow also with considerable force; and, being checked bytthe Castle hill, form an eddy, which, mounting over the rocks, is forced down upon the town, by the strength of the superior currents, and ventilates the narrow lanes and passages. These winds are often very inconvenient to the houses situate near the foot of the hill, as the eddy, blowing directly down the chimneys, fills the rooms with soot and smoke.”—Bigland's Yorkshire. f Mr. Benjamin Johnson, musician, a highly respectable character, completed the hundredth year of his age on the 3d of October, 1811; and on this occasion a jubilee was celebrated at Scarborough, by a party of his friends, who were highly gratified with the musical performances of the day, in which he bore a distinguished part. The right honourable Lord Mulgrave, who honoured the meeting with his presence, afterwards sent Mr. Jackson, an eminent artist, from London, to take the portrait of this venerable per- sonage, which his lordship has since presented to the corporation. - - § So called from-the vulgar but improbable tradition, that a battery was planted here against the castle, during the siege in 1644, THE COUNTY OF YORK, 457 excursion to its summit delightful. The roads are judiciously laid out, and their ascents are easy, seldom oxceeding seven or eight feet in a hundred. Thus the tourist ascends, without difficulty, to one of the most delightful terraces in England, elevated five hundred feet above the level of the sea. From this commanding eminence there is a magnificent view of the coast, the Castle hill, the town, the harbour, the piers, and the ocean, bounded only by the horizon; and, in the western prospect, the moors, the wolds, and the extensive vale, stretching out towards Malton and Pickering, exhibit a highly diversified scenery. * - Falsgrave, one mile from Scarborough, has three hundred and forty-five in- habitants. - - CHAP. I. Falsgrave. SEAMER is a small parish town, four miles from Scarborough. The population of Seamer. this place, in 1821, amounted to five hundred and ninety-six persons. A market is held here for live cattle on the first Monday in every month, and a fair on July 15. - - ty. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the king's books at £18. 16s. 53d.: patron, W. J. Dennison, Esq. The church, dedicated to St. Martin, is a large and hand- some building, with a tower at the west end. The manor was formerly part of the possessions of the Percys; it afterwards belonged to the duke of Leeds, who sold it to W. J. Dennison, Esq. Some portion of the manor-house remains near the church. A new school for boys and girls, with a dwelling house, was built and liberally endowed by the lord of the manor in 1814. A Methodist chapel was built here a few years ago. - East Ayton is a picturesque village, on the high road from Scarborough to Malton, being five miles distant from the former town: population, three hundred and thirty-three. Irton has one hundred and five inhabitants. - CAyton is a small village four miles from Scarborough, with a population of four hundred and forty-seven persons. - - - The church, dedicated to St. Leonard, is a curacy, not in charge, held with Seamer. Here are chapels for the Wesleyan and Primitive Methodists, and a school, endowed with £15 per annum. - - Osgodby has seventy-two inhabitants. - - HUTTON BUSHELL is a picturesque village, on the road from Malton to Scar- borough, being six miles from the latter town. Population of the township four hundred and nineteen persons. - - The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £14.17s. 6d. patron, Earl Fitzwilliam. The church, dedicated to St. Matthew, is a neat structure, with a good tower at the west end. In the interior is a marble monument to the memory of Dr. Richard Osbaldeston, bishop of London, who died in 1764. VOL. III. • 6 A - - * East Ay- ton. Irton º Cayton. Osgodby. Hutton Bushell. 458 HISTORY OF B O O K VII. West Ay- ton, Wykeham. Priory. Clough- ton. Newby. Throxenby Burniston. Stainton Dale. The manor-house, a neat edifice, is the residence of G. Osbaldeston, Esq. - West Ayton, on the opposite side of the Derwent to East Ayton, has two hundred . and twenty-nine inhabitants. The river Derwent, (over which is a bridge of four arches,) after winding in a confined current through the valley of Hackness, here displays a broader stream. In West Ayton stand the ruins of an ancient building, once the fortified residence of the family of the Ewers, or Evers, who possessed large demesnes in this place. The villages of East and West Ayton comprise the lord- ship of Gilbert, who from them assumed the name of Ayton, in the reign.of Henry I. The heir of this family, in the reign of Edward II., inherited, in right of his mother, the estates of William Lord Vescy, who died without issue. From this family it came, by marriage with the heiress, into the possession of Henry de Bromflete; and by the same mode of inheritance, it became the property of the family of the Cliffords, of Skipton castle. - - WYKEHAM, seven miles from Scarborough, has five hundred and eighty-two in- habitants. * - - * - The benefice is a rectory, (Bacon styles it a curacy, of the certified value of £20,) dedicated to All Saints: patron, the hon. Mrs. Langley, who has a handsome seat here. At this place Pain Fitz-osbert de Wickham, about the year 1153, built and en- dowed a priory of Cistercian nuns, to the honour of the Virgin Mary and St. Helen. At the Dissolution there were in it nine religious, and its revenues were valued at £25.17s. 6d. per annum. Nothing remains of this venerable structure except part of its north-end wall and its chapel. - Near to Wykeham is a fine large sheet of water, containing abundance of fish, over which is an iron bridge, erected by Richard Langley, Esq. in 1802. SCALBY is a small parish town, three miles from Scarborough : population, four hundred and forty-six. It is parcel of the duchy of Lancaster. The benefice, a vicarage, valued in the king's books at £6. 13s. 4d., is in the patronage of the dean and chapter of Norwich. The church, dedicated to St. Law- rence, is a meat edifice, with a tower at the west end. The interior contains nothing deserving notice. - There is an hospital here for four poor widows, or widowers, of Scalby, Newby, or Throxenby.” * * A school-room was built in 1828. * - - * The township of Cloughton contains three hundred and sixty-six inhabitants. Here is a neat chapel of ease. In the neighbourhood of this village are several British villages. * - Newby has forty, Throwenby sixty-six, Burniston three hundred and forty-seven, and Stainton Dale contains two hundred and ninety-four inhabitants. The latter • Cole's Hist, of scalby, 8vo. 1829. + Ibid. p. 68. THE county of York.” 459 manor, about the year 1140, was granted by King Stephen to the knights templars, on condition that a chaplain should constantly be retained by them, to perform divine service there daily, and to offer up intercession for the kings of England. It was dissolved in 1540. . FILEY is a parish town and township, eight miles from Scarborough, with seven hundred and seventy-three inhabitants. It is situate on the sea-side, “and as the shore winds itself back from hence a thin slip of land (like a small tongue thrust out) shoots into the sea, such as the old English called File, from which the little village Filey takes its name.” The beach at this place is particularly fine, and after storms the species of shells, corallines, &c., deposited here, are very numerous. The lord of the manor is H. Osbaldeston, Esq. e - The benefice is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £120: patron, H. Osbaldeston, Esq. The church, dedicated to St. Oswald, is situate on the brow of a rugged steep. It is an ancient edifice, consisting of a nave, chancel, aisles, and transepts, with a tower at the intersection. The interior is plain, but exhibits specimens of Norman architecture. - • There is a Wesleyan and Primitive Methodist chapel in this village. Filey bridge is a long ridge of rocks, extending nearly half a mile into the sea. The view of Scarborough and Flamborough, from the extent, (which can be approached at low water,) is of the most sublime and interesting description."f Lebberston has one hundred and forty-three, and Gristhorpe two hundred and twelve inhabitants. - BROMPTONI is a pleasant village on the road from Malton to Scarborough, being eight miles distant from the latter town: population, five hundred and sixteen. This place is said to have been once a residence of the Northumbrian kings. The foun- dations of an ancient building are still visible on Castle hill in this neighbourhood. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £12, in the parliamentary return at £31 : patron, Sir George Cayley, Bart. The family of the Cayleys, for- merly from Norfolk, but who have resided here upwards of two centuries, is very ancient. William Cayley received the honour of knighthood, March 2, 1641, and for his services to King Charles I. and II, was created a baronet, April 20, 1661. § Camden, vol. ii. p. 902. " " - r: -- + Cole's Hist. of Filey, 8vo. 1828. # Of this place the celebrated monkish historian, John of Brompton, was a native. He was a Cister- cian monk, and abbot of Jerveaux abbey, in Richmondshire. The “Chronicon that goes under his name begins at the year 558, when Augustin, the monk, came into England, and is carried on to the death of Richard II. anno Domini 1198.” But Selden says, that “this chronicle does not belong to the person whose name it goes under, and that John of Brompton, the abbot, did only procure it for his monastery of Jerveaux.” This historian has borrowed pretty freely from Roger Hoveden. His chronicle is printed in the “Decem Script. Hist, Ang.” - - - CHAP. I. Filey. . . Church. Chapels. Bridge. Lebber- Ston. Gris- thorpe. Brompton. Church. 460 *. HISTORY OF . B O O K VII. Sawdon. Trouts- dale. Snainton. Allerstone. Ebberston. Villa. Ellerburn. Kirkby Misperton. Sawdon has one hundred and thirty-nine, and Troutsdale forty-five inhabitants. Snainton is a small village, with six hundred and three inhabitants. •º. The chapel, a small building of Norman architecture, is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £33. Here is the seat of W. Moorsom, Esq. ALLERSTONE, four miles from Pickering, has four hundred and four inhabitants. The church peculiar is a curacy, held with Ebberston. - - EBBERSTON contains five hundred and five inhabitants. It is situate at the foot of an amphitheatre of hills clothed with woods. The chapel here is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £5. 17s. 33d. : patron, the dean of York. - This place is adorned with a small but elegant country seat, constructed on the plan of a Roman villa, by one of the Hotham family, but now occupied by George Osbaldeston, Esq. It is situate about a mile to the north of the York road, at the foot of a fine eminence, decorated with an amphitheatre of plantations, and a small sheet of water rushing down the declivity and falling in cascades behind the house, round which it is conveyed by an aqueduct. On the hill, above the house, is a small cave in a rock, called by the country people “ Ilfred's hole,” a corrupt name for Alfred's cave. Tradition informs us that Alfred, king of Northumberland, being wounded in a battle fought near this place, escaped his pursuers, and took shelter in this cave, from whence he was conveyed the next day to Little Driffield, where he died and was buried. ELLERBURN, including Witton, has two hundred and three inhabitants. It is a small parish, two miles from Pickering. The church is a vicarage, valued in the king's books at £7.4s. 9%d.: patron, the dean of York. : • KIRKBY MISPERTON, four miles south of Pickering, is a small parish town, with one hundred and seventy inhabitants." The benefice, a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £25. 1s. 10%d., is in the patronage of Lord Feversham, The church, dedicated to St. Lawrence, is an ancient edifice, comprising a nave, and south aisle, and chancel; the interior has several monuments. The rectory-house is ancient, and was formerly surrounded with a moat.* Great Barugh (population two hundred and forty-one), Great Habton (population Great Barugh. Great Habton. * Here was born, in 1703, the Rev. John Clarke, M. A. He was the son of an honest and industrious mechanic, whose extreme anxiety to give him a liberal education deserves every encomium. He was placed in the school at Thornton, a village in the neighbourhood, whence he subsequently obtained a small exhibition to assist him at the University. He died at Scarborough, in the house of his brother, Mr. Francis Clarke, and was buried at the church of this parish, Feb. 11, 1761, where an elegant monu- ment has been erected to his memory, at the expense of not less than one hundred and forty-eight of the sons of the principal gentry in the county of York, as well as those of other counties, all his pupils. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 461 \ one hundred and thirty-six), Little Habton (population fifty), and Ryton (population two hundred and twelve), are townships in this parish. - LEVISHAM is a parish town six miles from Pickering. Population, one hundred and fifty-two. The benefice, a rectory, is valued in the Liber regis at £7.8s. 1%d., and in the return to parliament at £110: patroness, Mrs. Skelton. THoRNTon, two miles and a half from Pickering, has eight hundred and seventy- nine inhabitants. : The living is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £20: patron, R. Hill, Esq. The church, dedicated to All Saints, is a small structure; there are chapels here for the two denominations of methodists. { - There is here a free-school, built and endowed by Lady Lumley, with a salary of £40 per annum to the master, £10 to the usher, and £20 for every first sermon preached by any of the persons brought up at this school. There are also twelve charity houses, built and endowed by the same lady, for twelve poor persons, with £1.1. 10s. per annum each, appertaining to the following places:—six to Sinnington, four to Thornton, one to Ellerburn, and one to Marton. Farmanby has four hundred and three inhabitants. Sinnington is a small picturesque parish town, four miles from Pickering and Kirkby Moorside. Population, three hundred and forty-three persons. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £80: patron, the master of Hemsworth school, in the West riding. The church is a small, but neat edifice. A Wesleyan methodist chapel was built here a few years ago. A branch school of the Thornton grammar-school is established in this village. The lodge is the seat of Pudsay Dawson, Esq., lord of the manor. The noble family of Latimer had a mansion here, no remains of which exist, except a few walls, now converted into a barn.* Marton (from marsh-town) has two hundred and fifty-five inhabitants; and Little Edstone (two farm-houses, in Ryedale wapentake) has sixteen inhabitants. MIDDLEton is a small parish town, one mile west of Pickering. In 1821, it con- tained two hundred and forty-seven persons. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £10. Ils. 8d., and in the return to parliament, at £90: patrons, the Rev. A. Cayley, Rev. F. Wrangham, and T. Smith, Esq. . - Aislaby (population one hundred and forty-seven), Cawthorne (population twenty-two), Harloft (population one hundred and thirty-four), and Wrelton (population one hundred and ninety-three), are inconsiderable hamlets in this parish. - - * Eastmead's Hist. Rievallensis, p. 268. WOL, III, 6 B CHAP. H. Little Habton. Ryton. Lewisham. Thornton. School. Farmanby. Sinning- ton. Marton. Little Ed- Stone. Middleton. Aislaby. Caw- thorne, Harloft. Wrelton. 462 - HISTORY OF B O O K VII. Uropton. Lockton. Rosedale. Priory. Pickering. Church. ^ Cropton * contains three hundred and twenty-one inhabitants. It has a neat chapel of ease to Middleton.f. .- - At Lockton (population three hundred and twenty-four) is a small chapel of ease to Middleton. \ Rosedale has three hundred and thirty-nine inhabitants. Here is an ancient chapel, dedicated to St. Lawrence, and valued in the parliamentary return at f56. 14s. 0d. - Y. This chapel is part of the ruins of a priory founded in the time of Richard I, 1190, for Benedictines or Cistercians, by Robert de Stuteville, and dedicated to 'St. Lawrence and St. Mary. The site was granted 30th Henry VIII. to Ralph Nevile, earl of Westmoreland. About the time of the Dissolution, a prioress and eight or nine religious belonged to this house, whose yearly revenue was £41. 13s. 8d.: PICKERING (which gives name to the wapentake) is a small market and parish town, eight miles from Kirkby Moorside, and nineteen from Scarborough. The market is held on Monday; and there are fairs on the Monday before February 14, Monday before May 13, September 25, and the Monday before November 23. In 1821, this town contained two thousand seven hundred and forty-six inhabitants. This town belongs to the duchy of Lancaster, having jurisdiction over several neighbouring villages, called the honour of Pickering. It is a place of great antiquity, and formerly sent two members to parliament, but it no longer retains that privilege. The town is long and straggling, but is pleasantly situate on an eminence, at the bottom of which runs a brook, called Pickering beck. ‘e The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £8. 3s. 9d., in the parlia- mentary return at £140: it is in the gift of the dean of York. The church, an ancient and spacious building, with a lofty spire, is dedicated to St. Peter. Here are also a Calvinist, a Methodist, and a Primitive Methodist chapel, and a Friends' aeeting-house. * Near this place is Beckhouse, once the residence of the Robinson family. The house is ancient, and on the south wall is the following singular inscription : “He that comes to steal a ploum look up and see who is abown; beware; God sees.” Above is the bust of a religious. - + “Within about two hundred yards of this chapel,” says Young, in his History of Whitby, “is a round fort, on a projecting point of the heights where the chapel and chapel-yard are situate. It looks like a very large tumulus, and measures one hundred and fifty feet over, including the height of its sloping sides, and the depth of a trench that encircles its base. Its height may exceed thirty feet. The approaches towards it from the chapel have been altered; an old hall, the ruins of which are still dis- cernible, having stood in that direction; from which the fort is called Hallgarth hill; but in the opposite direction, towards the valley, we find a double ditch of great strength, sweeping round the point of the hill, and another ditch round the foot of the hill, defending the approach from the plain. These camps or forts are decidedly British.” - . ... -- - . t Of the ruins that remain is the square of the cloister, which is almost entire; the buildings having been converted into dwelling-houses, &c. In this square aré some of the tomb-stones that have been placed over the nuns, with crosses, &c. carved on them. - º º - º THE county of York. 463 Near the northern extremity of the town stands the castle, which is now in a very ruinous state; and part of the ground within the walls is converted into gardens. The brow of the hill commands a delightful view over the vale of Pickering, cele- brated for its fertility. In the reign of King Henry III., William Lord Dacre was owner of this castle and lordship ; it afterwards became the property of Edmund Plantagenet, second son of King Henry III., who was succeeded by his son, Thomas Plantagenet, earl of Lancaster: in the tyrannic reign of Edward II, he was beheaded at Pontefract, in the year 1322. This manor and castle, with all its appendages, were afterwards given to the Lady Blanch, then the wife of John of Gaunt, duke of Lancaster. Richard II. was for some time imprisoned in the castle here, before his removal to Pontefract. This castle was of an irregular figure : in the first court were four towers, one of which was called Rosamond's tower; in the inner court were three towers, besides the keep, which stood on a circular mount, surrounded by a deep ditch. The whole of this once stupendous castle is now a mass of ruins. Pickering forest was an appurtenance to the castle, and was very extensive. There is here a subscription library, and an endowed free-school. The town has an ancient honour court for the recovery of debts, and the trial of actions, where the matter in dispute does not exceed the value of 40s. Goatland,” or Godeland, has three hundred and thirty-five inhabitants: a neat chapel was erected here in 1821. - - Here was a Benedictine cell granted by Henry I., 1117, to Osmund, a priest, and CHAP. I. Castle. Goatland. a few brethren, who took up their habitation there, but soon after transferred to the abbey of Whitby. It was dedicated to St. Mary, and probably stood above a mile north-east of the present Godeland chapel, at a place now called Abbot's house. - Kingthorpe contains fifty-two persons. Here is the seat of J. Fothergill, Esq. West Marishes has two hundred and ten; and Newton Dale two hundred and twelve inhabitants. * In this dale, within the liberties of Pickering forest, the farmers were obliged, by the ancient tenures of their land, to attend to the breed of hawks, which annually built their nests in a cliff or scar, called Killing Nab Scar, in Newton dale, in order to secure them for the king's use. These hawks are of a very large size, and still continue to frequent their ancient place of resort ; and it is singular, that there is every year one breed, and very seldom more. - King- thorpe. - West Marishes. Newton Dale. 464 HISTORY OF CHAP. II. Rydale wapentake. Malton. CHAPTER II. survey OF THE WAPENTAKES OF RYDALE BULMER, BIRD FORTH, HALIKELD, AND HANG. THE wapentake of Rydale contains the following parishes:— AMPI,EFORTH, GILLING, LASTINGHAM, OSWALID KIRR, APPLETON-LE-STREET, HELMSLEY, OLD MALTON, SCAWTON, BARTON-LB-STREET, HOVINGHAM, - NORMANBY, SLINGSBY, GREAT EDSTONE, KIRKBY MooRSIDE, NUNNINGTON, STONEGRAVE, KIRRDALE, AND THE BORough of MALTon. g The borough town of New MALTON is situate on the north bank of the Derwent, almost midway between Scarborough and York; being twenty-one miles from the former, and eighteen from the latter town. In 1821, this town, containing the parishes of St. Leonard and St. Michael, had seven hundred and sixty-four houses and four thousand and five inhabitants.” The early importance of this place is shown by the number of ancient roads which point to it. It was certainly one of the most ancient Brigantian fortified towns in this part of the country; and when the Romans became possessed of it, they planted here one of the numeri, or cohorts of the legio, sexta victrix, called Derventionensis, and changed only the termination of its British name to Camulodunum. This name, by abbreviation, became the Saxon Meldun, pro- nounced Maiden; and Maiden Greve Balk is at this day one of the boundaries of Malton. The river Derwent here, and at this point alone, touches the foot of the Deirawold region; a considerable breadth of marshy ground, formerly impassable, intervenes between the river and the wolds in every other part of its course; and at this point was the river most readily passed by a broad but shallow ford. No fewer than six Roman roads may be traced, by military and History. other remains, to this station.'t * A market is held here on Saturday, and fairs on the Saturday before Palm-Sunday, Saturday before Whit-Sunday, July 15, and the Saturday before November 11.-Langdale. - - + “Numerous Roman coins, both silver and copper, of various emperors, for a long period have been, and are yet found here; and on the opposite side of the river, entrenchments for the defence of . . - - *xrºad º |} | º | - ºf º º © º Ž. G º | º - º f º THE county of York. 465 The Camulodunum of the Romanized Britons, in the Saxon era, became a royal villa to King Edwin, and here the life of that monarch was preserved from the assassin, by his faithful Lilla. The celebrated Siward, who defeated Macbeth, was one of the early lords of Malton; and after the Norman conquest, the noble family of Vescy built here a castle and a priory for Gilbertine canons, of both which there are some remains existing at this day. The castle was one of those short-lived structures which Henry II. demolished; but, during its existence, the town was burnt down by Archbishop Thurstan, when he laid siege to it to dislodge the Scots; and the name of New Malton commenced on the rebuilding of the town. On the site of the castle, Ralph, Lord Eure, built a noble castellated mansion, which he finished at the conclusion of the sixteenth century; and it is remarkable, that its duration was as short as that CHAP. II. Castle. of the castle, for his lordship's two granddaughters not agreeing respecting the property here, the mansion was pulled down, and the materials divided between them, by Henry Marwood, Esq., the high sheriff of the county of York, in 1674; the lodge and gateway, however, were left as a monument of the folly and vindictiveness of family feuds, or to show what the mansion had been. Mary, the youngest of these daughters, was married to William Palmer, Esq., of Linley, in this county, who, in right of his wife, possessed the manor of Old and New Malton, which he, with others, conveyed to Sir Thomas Wentworth. On the 20th of May, 1728, the honourable Thomas Wentworth, knight of the bath, obtained the title of Lord Malton, and six years afterwards was created marquis of Rockingham. His lordship dying on the 14th of December, 1760, was suc- ceeded in his title and estates by his only son, Charles Watson Wentworth, marquis of Rockingham, who dying on the 1st of July, 1782, his nephew, Earl Fitzwilliam, succeeded to the manor of Malton, and his other principal estates. Malton was a corporate borough, and governed by two bailiffs, until the reign of Charles II, when a writ of quo warranto, to which the inhabitants pleaded prescription, deprived the burgesses of its privileges, for judgment was given in favour of the crown, and a new charter has never been applied for ; since that time, the court leet and court baron of New Malton appoint a nominal borough bailiff and two constables, and exercise the usual jurisdiction of those courts. Malton sent members to parliament so early as the reign of Edward I. ; and at that period the prior of Malton was elected a representative, who, on his return from parliament, was arrested for debt, but, pleading a privilege of exemption in going and returning from parliamentary duty, he was liberated; this once important pass are also visible. Fragments of, and entire urns, some containing Roman coins and fine red ashes, and also many pieces of their pottery, with figures in relief, on paterae and Pocula, are found here.”—Baines. - - - - VOL. III. 6 c Manor. Borough. 466 HISTORY OF B O O K VII. Churches. Chapels. Spring. Trade. Old Mal- . ton. this is perhaps the earliest claim of the privilege by a member of parliament. This borough now sends two members to parliament, elected by the house- holders paying scot and lot; the number of voters being about five hundred. The churches of St. Leonard and St. Michael are perpetual curacies, valued, together with St. Mary, Old Malton, at £117: patron, Earl Fitzwilliam. . . St. Michael's church, situate in the market-place, is a large building of Anglo-Norman architecture, much mutilated. At the west end is a good tower. St. Leonard's church comprises a nave, a north aisle, chancel, and a tower at the west end, with a truncated spire. From inscriptions on this church, it appears that the tower and chancel were repaired in 1806, and the outer walls and roof rebuilt in 1807; and the church-yard was enlarged, and the vestry rebuilt, at the expense of Earl Fitzwilliam, in 1815. - ', The other places of worship are, for the Society of Friends, the Presbyterians, the Independents and the Methodists. There is also a theatre, erected in 1814; besides a handsome suite of public rooms, in Yorkgate, to which are attached a subscription library and news-room. A workhouse was erected, principally at the expense of the Wentworth family, in 1735. - . About a quarter of a mile to the south-west of New Malton is a mineral spring, similar in its properties to those of Scarborough, and is said to be a very efficacious chalybeate.* * * A handsome stone bridge connects this place with Norton, the river forming the boundary between the East and North ridings. In the reign of Queen Anne an act was passed, under the authority of which the Derwent was made navigable up to this place, and corn, butter, bacon, &c. are conveyed in large quantities from hence to Hull, Leeds, Wakefield, and London; while from Hull are returned salt, sugar, and groceries of different kinds; and coals and all sorts of woollens quantities. - brought here from Leeds, and other parts of the West riding, in considerable Old MALTON, one mile distant from the last town, has a population of one thousand and sixty-four persons. The benefice, a perpetual curacy, with New Malton, is in the patronage of Earl Fitzwilliam. ... " ' - - In Leland's time, it appears to have been the mother-church to St. Michael and St. Leonard, at New Malton; and has been built where stood the priory, Priory. * “John Topham, a learned antiquary, was a native of this place ; and in an humble situation under the late Philip Carteret Webb, Esq., solicitor to the treasury, acquired such a knowledge of ancient lands and muniments, as raised him to a place in the State Paper office. His publications in the Archeologia are numerous. He was elected F. S.A. in 1767, and treasurer in 1785, also F.R.S. in 1779. He died at Cheltenham, Aug. 19, 1803.”—Gent. Biog. Dict.—Nichols' Lit. Anecdotes, vol. iii. p. 207. > THE COUNTY OF YORK, 467 founded about 1150, by Eustachius, or Eustace Fitz-John, for canons of the order CHAP. II. of St. Gilbert. In 1200, William Laceles, knight, granted them two bovates of -land in Old Malton, in lieu of certain tithes. At the demolition the revenues were valued at £197. 19s. 2d. The present church is only a small portion of the nave of the Priory church, the choir having been taken down in 1734. The east front, still remaining, is of late Norman workmanship, with some specimens of the lancet style. The west door has a handsome receding arch, composed of various mouldings, springing from an impost, composed of the capitals of seven columns, attached to each jamb. The capitals are leaved, and the shafts are slender. mouldings show a beautiful specimen of the lozenge, highly enriched. In addition are the chevron and the diagonal flower—the latter moulding assists to fix the date of the architecture early in the twelfth century. The arch is walled up, and has a modern doorway of mean dimensions, in lieu of the ancient entrance. The interior of the church must have been, in its original state, a very large and richly ornamented edifice. There are several-badges of a bolt in a tun, evidently a rebus. * - - / - In 1546, Robert Holgate, D.D., archbishop of York, (who had the grant of the site of the priory,) founded a free grammar-school here, and endowed it with lands and tenements, of the value of £20 per annum. The master is appointed by the archbishop of York-Anciently, it appears, there were lands belonging to this school; but now, instead of them, there are certain money payments, amounting to about £100 per annum, with a good house and garden attached to it. * r NoFMANBy, four miles from Pickering, has only one hundred and ninety-one inhabitants. Here is a sulphur spa, which affords sixty gallons an hour. The benefice is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £9. 12s. 6d. patron, A, Cayley, Esq. Some part of the church exhibits remains of Norman archi- tecture. . - - Thornton Risebrough, in this parish, has thirty-two inhabitants. SLINGSBY, seven miles from Malton, has five hundred and forty-eight inhabitants. The church is a rectory, dedicated to All Saints, and valued in the Liber regis at The • * * ... * : **.* • - - 5.º.... *...?, Grammar school. Nor- manby. Thornton Rise- brough. Slingsby. £12. 1s. 103d. : patron, the earl of Carlisle. It is a neat edifice, and in the chancel * is the mutilated effigy of a warrior, said to be one of the Wyvills. The manor and castle of Slingsby formerly belonged to the noble family of the Mowbrays, who had extensive possessions in this neighbourhood. The castle was partly rebuilt by Sir C. Cavendish, in 1603, but never finished. It now belongs to the earl of Carlisle. .- - Oswald KIRK is a small parish town, about three miles from Helmsley, with two hundred and twelve inhabitants. - - - The benefice is a rectory, dedicated to St. Oswald, and valued in the Liber regis Manor and castle. Oswald Kirk. 468 HISTORY OF at £10. Is. 8d.: patron, the Rev. T. Comber. The church is a small and ancient edifice. - - The hall is the residence of T. P. Banner, Esq. - Near the church are the remains of an ancient building, supposed to be a monastery, begun in the ninth century, but never completed, the establishment being removed to Old Byland.* - In this parish, at Newton Grange, was born, July 24, 1585, that indefatigable collector and eminent antiquary, Roger Dodsworth, son of Matthew Dodsworth, registrar of York cathedral, and chancellor to Archbishop Matthews. He died in August, 1654, and was buried at Rufford, Lancashire."f . . NuNNINGTON, five miles from Kirkby Moorside, contains four hundred and eighteen persons. * This place is pleasantly situate on the banks of the Rye, and on the declivity of a hill, commanding an extensive and picturesque prospect. At the east end of the village is an ancient mansion, once the seat of Lord Viscount Preston; at a more recent date of Lord Widdrington; and now in the possession of Sir Bellingham Graham. - - The church is a rectory, dedicated to All Saints, and valued in the Liber regis at £13. 6s. 8d.: patron, the king. In the church are two handsome marble monu- ments, erected to the memory of the Lords Preston and Widdrington. There is a free-school in this village, founded by Ranold Graham, Esq. in 1678, and endowed by him with £6 per annum for six scholars, with £4 per annum by David Bedford, of Nunnington, for four scholars; and twenty others are annually put to school by the voluntary bounty of Sir Bellingham Graham, besides two others educated at the expense of Mr. Peacock, of London, making a total of thirty-two scholars. R. Graham, Esq., also founded and endowed an hospital here, in 1678, for three poor widows and three poor widowers, with £12 per annum, and £2 for the repair B O O K VII. Nunning- ton. Church. * Estmead's Historia Rievallensis, p. 220. f Anthony Wood says, “He was a man of wonderful industry, but less judgment; always collecting, but never published any thing.” And Mr. Gough adds, “one cannot approach the borders of this county without paying respect to the memory of the indefatigable collector of its antiquities, Roger Dodsworth, who undertook and executed a work, which, to the antiquaries of the present day, would have been the stone of Tydides.” One hundred and twenty volumes of his own writing, besides original MSS. which he had obtained from several hands, making all together one hundred and sixty-two vols. folio, now lodged in the Bodleian library, are lasting memorials what this county owes to him ; and the volumes of the Monasticon (which, though published under his and Dugdale's names conjointly, were both collected and written totally by him) will immortalize that extensive industry which has laid the whole kingdom under obligation. The patronage of General Fairfax preserved this treasure, and bequeathed it to the library where it is now lodged. Fairfax allowed Dodsworth a yearly salary to preserve the inscriptions in churches.—Gent. Biog. Dict.—Drake. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 469 of the building. The inmates of the hospital receive an additional sum of twelve shillings per annum, together with a new coat, stuff gown, &c. every two years. STONEGRAVE, adjoining the above parish, contains a population of one hundred and seventy-seven persons. It is a small but neat village, situate at the base of Cauklass hill, by which it is completely hid, in approaching it from the north. The benefice, a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £33.6s. 8q., is in the gift of his majesty. The church is a neat edifice, some portion being of Norman archi- tecture. . In the chancel are several handsome monuments to the family of Comber, descendants of the learned divine, Dr. Thomas Comber, dean of Durham. In the north aisle are two extended, of females, and one of a crusader. East and West Ness, in this parish, contain one hundred and thirty-seven in- habitants. At the former village is the seat of T. Kendall, Esq. & East Newton and Laysthorpe have seventy-two inhabitants. Mr. William Marshall, the celebrated agriculturist, has a large farm here. Laysthorpe hall, the seat of H. Dowker, Esq., stands in a very commanding situation. The market and parish town of HELMSLEY, situate on the road from Scarborough to Thirsk, contains a population of one thousand five hundred and twenty persons.” Helmsley, called by Bede, Ulmetum, is a small town, situate on the east side of Hambleton hills, or Hambleton black-moor, and is frequently called Helmsley black- moor. It had formerly the protection of a castle on the west, which, according to Camden, was built by Robert de Ross, and called Castle Fursam. It was besieged in 1644, by Sir Thomas Fairfax, and surrendered to the arms of parliament, Nov. 21, and by their order soon afterwards dismantled. The ruins, yet remaining, consist of a lofty tower and some other small detached parts, with a gateway from the south, situate on an eminence surrounded with a double moat. The old tower, and Helmsley church, are very conspicuous objects from the terrace at Duncombe park. The surrounding scenery is beautiful and picturesque in the extreme; and the scat- tered masses of building, seen through the rich foliage of the stately trees, and the still more stately double gateway, have long formed a favourite subject for the painter's pencil. Helmsley formerly belonged to the duke of Buckingham, which he obtained by marriage of the heiress of the duke of Rutland. After his death it came into the possession of his son, the well-known George Williers, duke of Buckingham, who sold it, along with the whole of his estates in the parishes of Helmsley and Kirkdale, to Sir Charles Duncombe, ancestor of the present Lord Feversham, of Duncombe park. - - The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £11. 3s.6%d.: patron, Lord Feversham. The church, dedicated to All Saints, is an ancient edifice, with a * There is a market on Saturday, and fairs on May 19, July 16, october 1 and 2, and November 5 and 6. - WOL. III. 6 D CHAP. II. Stone- grave. East and WestNess. East New- ton and Lays- thorpe. Helmsley. Castle. 470 HISTORY OF B O O.K VII. Bilsdale Midcable. Laskill Pastures. Pockley. Sproxton. Haram. Rievaulx. Abbey. tower at the west end. The other places of worship are a Friends’ meeting-house and a Methodist chapel. - . Bilsdale Midcable” (population seven hundred and eighty), Laskill Pastures (population ninety-one), Pockley (population two hundred and twenty-seven), Sproxton (population one hundred and sixty-seven), require no farther notice. . At Haram (population four hundred and sixty-one), is a small chapel of ease to Helmsley. - - The small, but picturesque township of Rievaulx contains two hundred and twelve inhabitants. Here are situate the interesting remains of Rievaulx abbey. It was founded in 1131, by Sir Walter d’Espec, who dedicated it to the Virgin Mary. Besides this abbey, he founded and endowed two others; viz. Kirkham in the East riding, + and Warden, in Bedfordshire. He was buried in Rievaulx abbey, in 1153. It was valued at the Dissolution at £378. 10s. 2d. (Dugdale), and £351. 14s. 6d. (Speed), per annum. The site was granted by Henry VIII. to Thomas, earl of Rutland, a descendant of Walter d’Espec. Catherine, daughter of Francis, earl of Rutland, married George Williers, duke of Buckingham; and his son, the second duke of Buckingham, sold it to Sir Charles Duncombe, whose grand nephew, Thomas Duncombe, Esq., in 1758, made one of the finest terraces in England upon the brink of the hill which overlooks the ruins. Ailred, celebrated for his learning and piety, was abbot here, and wrote an historical account of the battle of the standard. After the Dissolution, the lead and bells were removed, and part of the church, chapter-house, and the abbot's lodge destroyed. “The ruins afford,” says Whitaker, “one of the finest existing subjects in the kingdom for the pencil and the graver.” The elegance and magnificence of this abbey have seldom been equalled in this country. The principal remains are those of the church and refectory. The former consists of the choir and part of its two side-aisles, the transept with its aisle, and the commencement of the tower. The nave is demolished, but its site is visible. The transept and tower form an exact cross in the centre of the building. The chief part of the buildings are in the early pointed style, with lancet windows, pre- valent in the reign of Henry III. The pillars of the choir, with their arches, and a double tier of correspondent arches, are in good preservation. The refectory is a spacious building, and it is preceded by a large hall, to which was attached a neat circularly arched entrance, but ribbed, in the early pointed style. Within the refectory, to the right, are to be seen the remains of the music-gallery, and on the outside a circular staircase leading to it. * Here is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £60, 15s., and a meeting-house for the Friends. + Vide vol. iv. p. 110. . Fº - | º | |- | º º | | --- | | - | | N. WHIT TOCK, DEL. J. Rogers, SC. lſ N TIERI (OIR. (OIF IRIVATUILY AlBlºº. LONDON PUBLISHED BY IT HINTON, 4WARVNICK SQUARE 1829. zºº THE county of York. 47.] At the north end of the village are the vestiges of a building somewhat more modern in its style than the refectory. This is conjectured to have been the eleemosynary.* - - Duncombe park, the seat of Lord Feversham, is situate in the township of Rievaulx. This noble seat of the Duncombe family was built by Wakefield, from a design of Sir John Vanbrugh. The character of the building is Doric; the east front is rather CHAP. II. Duncombe park. heavy, but the west presents a good specimen of that order. On entering the hall, the spectator is struck with the general air of greatness it conveys, being sixty feet long and forty wide, and surrounded by fourteen lofty Corinthian columns. Here is a fine piece of sculpture, called the Dog of Alcibiades, said to be the work of Myron. Dallaway, in his description of statuary and sculpture, says, “It was dis- covered at Monte Cagnuolo, and procured by Henry Constantine Jennings, Esq., who brought it to England, and from whom it was transferred to Mr. Duncombe for one thousand guineas. It ranks among the five famous dogs of antiquity.” Here is also the famous statue called Discobulus, which, says Gilpin, “is esteemed the first statue in England. It exhibits on every side the justest proportions and the most pleasing attitudes.” Notwithstanding the prejudice and illiberal language often used against the fame of Sir John Vanbrugh as a builder, he certainly contrived to give an air of grandeur to his structures rarely to be met with. The saloon here (now library) may be adduced among others in proof of the assertion, it possessing an uncommon air of magnificence. It is eighty-eight feet long and twenty-four broad, thrown into three divisions by Ionic columns, and adorned with four antique statues. of Apollo, Bacchus, Mars, and Mercury, also two good busts of Cicero and Horace. Communicating with the saloon to the north is a handsome dining-room, and to the south an elegant suite of apartments, all appropriately furnished ; but the most interesting part of the furniture is dérived from the pencils of eminent painters, and consists in the valuable pictures which ornament the interior of this superb dwelling, They have been collected with great judgment, and “the easy access to the seeing of them,” says Dayes, “is an honourable testimony of the liberal spirit of their present owner.” In this splendid collection of paintings are the Scourging of Christ, painted by old Palmer, in successful competition with Titian; the Head of St. Paul by Leonardo de Vinci, esteemed the finest work of that great painter; a magnificent land-storm, by Nicola Poussin; and a candle-light scene (old woman and girl) by ~. * The dimensions of this church are as follow — , - 2 * * • - Feet. t Feet. Length of choir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Length of nave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . - 166 Breadth of ditto...... .* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 63 | Breadth of ditto . . . . . . . . . . . . ........ 59 Length of transepts...... . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Length of refectory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Breadth of ditto... . . . . . ............. 83 Breadth of ditto.................... 37 There is an excellent plan of this monastery in the Gentleman's Mag, 1822, part i. p. 113. p 472 History of B O O K VII. Kirkby Moorside. Manor. Duke of Bucking- ham. Rubens, purchased, it is said, for fifteen hundred guineas. The grounds are dis- posed with great taste. Here is a noble terrace, terminated by two handsome circular temples, from which is a most beautiful prospect. Embosomed in trees appears the noble tower of Helmsley castle, and near it, occasionally, peeps forth part of the town; and deep beneath is seen a beautiful valley, with the river Rye winding among hanging woods.” KIRKBy MooRSIDE is a small market and parish town, six miles from Helmsley. In 1821, it contained one thousand eight hundred and seventy-eight inhabitants.t The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £14.0s. 10d.: patron, the king. The church, dedicated to All Saints, is an ancient edifice, in which is a curious marble monument, with a brass plate, gilt, on which are carved figures of a Lady Brooke, and her six sons and five daughters, all kneeling: This manor, which formerly belonged to the earls of Westmoreland, was forfeited; and tradition says, that Ralph, earl of Westmoreland, by whose rebellion the estate was forfeited, in the reign of Elizabeth, made his escape from hence into Scotland, in the time of a deep snow, and eluded his pursuers by having the shoes of his horse reversed; and that the descendants of the blacksmith who turned the shoes enjoy at this day a house, as a reward for their ancestor's service, at a rent of a farthing a year. The manor remained in the crown till the reign of James I., when the favourite duke of Buckingham, having obtained Helmsley by his marriage with the heiress of the earl of Rutland, is said to have begged it of the king, as a garden to that famous mansion. His son George, who married Mary, the only daughter of Thomas Lord Fairfax, after a dissolute life, died in extreme want at a humble house in the Market-place. g- The house has since undergone considerable repairs, and is now in the possession of a linen-draper. His extensive possessions at Helmsley and Kirkby Moorside passed into the Duncombe family. § * “Nothing,” says Baines, “can be more truly beautiful than the assemblage of objects seen in a bird’s-eye view from this spot. This view is beheld with delightful variation in walking along the terrace to the Tuscan Temple, as fresh scenery breaks upon the eye almost at every step. The temple, situate at the point of a bold promontory ornamented with stately plantations and projected into a winding valley, commands the most sublime and beautiful scenes. The valley, the river, and the cascades, are seen beneath; and in the front the prospect extends and becomes beautifully variegated. The castle, Helmsley church, and the tower, appear in the midst; and the valley, here forming into a rich sequestered lawn, is well contrasted with the rougher visage of the hilly moors which are seen in the distance.” # The market is held on Wednesday, and fairs on the Wednesday in Whitsun week and September 18. + History of Whitby. e § In Pope's celebrated description of this nobleman's death, he seems to have taken a poetical license, or been misinformed, as there is no tradition of the house ever having been an inn, and the floor of the room is of wainscot. From a letter to his intimate friend, Doctor Barrow, which the duke wrote a few days before his death, it seems that he died in the utmost possible penitence, “...afflicted,” as he says, “with poverty, haunted with remorse, despised by my country, and, I fear, forsaken by my God.” The THE COUNTY OF YORK. 473 At Keldholme, in this township, Robert de Stuteville, in the time of King Henry I., founded a nunnery, for monks of the Cistercian order, dedicated to the Virgin. At the Dissolution here were a prioress and eight nuns, who had a yearly revenue of £29.6s. 1d. The site was granted to Ralph, earl of Westmoreland. Not a vestige of this house is remaining. In 1813, when part of the foundations was cleared away, several tomb-stones and stone coffins were discovered. - Gillamoor (population one hundred and ninety-five) has a neat chapel of ease to the parish church. Brandsdale Eastside (population four hundred and fifty-five), Fadmoor (popu- lation one hundred and sixty-two), and Farndale Low Quarter (population two hundred and thirteen), are small townships in this parish. KIRKDALE is a very extensive parish, without a village bearing its name. The entire population amounted in 1821, to one thousand six hundred and sixteen persons. The benefice, a perpetual curacy, valued in the return to parliament at £29, is in the patronage of the university of Oxford. The church is situate in the southern extremity of a romantic vale, in a most sequestered but beautiful spot, surrounded with woods, and has been much noticed, on account of a very ancient Saxon in- scription over the south door, which may be thus translated:— “Orm, Gamal’s son, bought St. Gregory’s church, when it was all gone to ruin and fallen down ; and he agreed with Maccan, to renew it from the ground, to Christ and St. Gregory, in Edward’s days the king; and Tosti's days the earl. This is a draught exhibiting the time of the day, while the sun is passing to and from the winter solstice. Hawarth me made, and Brand the priest.” This inscription fixes the antiquity of the church. Tosti, or Tasti, the fourth son of Godwin, earl of Kent, and brother of King Harold, was created earl of North- umberland by Edward the confessor, in the year 1056, and fell at the battle of Stamford bridge, in 1066, so that the erection of this church was antecedent to the Norman conquest; a thing so rare, that there are not above three or four churches of so ancient a date in the kingdom. The living of Kirkdale, after passing through a variety of patrons, came into possession of Henry Danvers, Esq., earl of Danby, who gave it to the university of Oxford, about the year 1632. The fossil remains of the hyena and other animals have been found in a cave or fissure at this place. In the year 1820, Professor Buckland examined this interesting spot with great care, and communicated the result of his inquiries to the Royal Society of London. The professor reports that the cave extends three hundred feet into a solid white rock, and varies from two feet to five feet in height and breadth. Its bottom is covered with a layer, about a foot thick, of mud, which is partially encrusted with calcsinter. It is in this mud that the fossil animal remains are found parish register simply records his burial in the following manner:—“1687—April 17th, Gorges Vilaus, Lord, dooke of bookingam.” WOL. III. 6 E CHAP. II. Keldholme Gillamoor. Brandsdale Eastside. Fadmoor. Farndale Low Quar- ter. Kirkdale. Cave. 474 HISTORY OF B O O. K. VII. Beadlam. - Bransdale Westside. Muscoates. North Holme. Skiplan. Womble- to II. Norton. Welburn. Lasting- ham. Church. imbedded. The bones are in a nearly fresh state, still retaining their animal gelatin. They are mostly broken and gnawed in pieces, and are intermixed with teeth. The fossil remains found by Professor Buckland were of the following animals; viz, hyena, elephant, rhinoceros, hippopotamus, deer, ox, and water-rat: the four first belong to species now extinct, but of the others nothing is said. It is evident that animals having the magnitude of the elephant or rhinoceros could not enter a fissure so low and narrow as that at this place; and it appears probable that these bones could not have been floated into the fissure by means of water, otherwise they would not only have suffered by attrition, but would be intermixed with sand or gravel; they must therefore have been transported thither in some other way; and the professor con- jectures that they were carried in for food by the hyenas, who appear to have been the sole inhabitants of the den. - | r Beadlam (population one hundred and forty-three), Bransdale Westside (popu- lation two hundred and eighty-six), Muscoates (population sixty-five), North Holme (population twenty-four), Skiplam (population one hundred and seventy), and Wombleton, in St. Peter's liberty, with two hundred and sixty-five inhabitants, require no further notice. & Norton contains three hundred and thirty-three inhabitants. The hall is the seat of T. Whytehead, Esq., and the lodge is the sporting-box of T. Duncombe, Esq. Welburn has one hundred and twelve inhabitants. The hall is the seat of J. Robinson, Esq. LASTINGHAM, four miles north of Kirkby Moorside, contains two hundred and twenty-five inhabitants. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £17.7s.6d. : patron, the king. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a highly in- teresting edifice of early Norman architecture. - : In 648, Edilwald, son of Oswald, king of Northumbria, gave to Cedde, bishop of the East Saxons, a piece of ground, called Lestingay, for building a monastery. He instituted here the same discipline as at Lindisfarn, where he had been educated. In this monastery he died, about the year 664. This monastery was destroyed in 870, restored in 1078, and in 1088 the fraternity removed to York. Underneath the choir of the present church, and of the same dimensions, is a vaulted crypt, thirteen paces by eight, the massy cylindrical columns of which, with their variously sculptured columns and arches, are all in great preservation, and exhibit excellent specimens of Norman architecture. The entrance is through a trap-door from the west end of the choir, and consists of a centre and two side-aisles, lighted by a small window at the east end of each aisle; and being situate on the brow of a steep hill, admitting light. The east end is circular, resembling the crypt or bone-house at Ripon minster, which was built about the same time. , - In this church is a beautiful painting of Christ in the Garden, presented by - º | | - | | c un th É tº . 3 |*. º T H E COUNTY OF YORK. 475 J. Jackson, Esq., R. A., a native of this village, who also gave £50 towards enlarg- ing the space from which it was to receive light.* e - In this parish are the townships of Appleton-le-Moor (population two hundred and seventy-six), Farndale Eastside or High Quarter (population five hundred and ninety), Hutton-le-Hole (population three hundred and four), Rosedale Westside (population one hundred and seventy-nine), and Spaunton (population one hundred and nine). - GREAT EDSTONE two miles from Kirkby Moorside, contains one hundred and fifty-six inhabitants. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £7. 10s. : patron, the marquis of Salisbury. The church is a very ancient edifice. Over the south door is a Saxon dial, similar to one at Kirkdale, but not so perfect. HovingHAM is a parish town,'t seven miles from Helmsley, having a population of six hundred and forty-nine persons. The church is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to All Saints, and valued in the parliamentary returns at £57: patron, the earl of Carlisle. It is a large edifice of different periods of architecture; the south, front was rebuilt in 1725. costly monument to T. Worsley, Esq., who died in 1795, aged sixty-three. In 1808 the Rev. J. Graves endowed a school here with £10 per annum. Hovingham hall, the seat of E. Worsley, Esq., was anciently the possession of Roger de Mowbray.f - - . . . . In this parish are the following townships: Aryholme and Hawthorpe (population thirty-three), Cotton S (population one hundred and twelve), Fryton (population sixty-two), South Holme (population sixty-six), Wath (population twenty-two), and Scackleton || (population one hundred and seventy-one). - In it is a * This eminent painter was born in this village, May 31, 1778, and died in London, June 1, 1830. His father was a village tailor; and he commenced his career by painting miniatures at York, at the early age, of nineteen. In 1804 he came to London, and studied in the Royal Academy, of which institution he became a member in 1818. The best portrait of Mr. Jackson is in the collection of the earl of Carlisle at Castle Howard. - - * + A charter was granted in the thirty-sixth of Henry III. for a market, fair, &c., and renewed in the thirteenth of George II. ; the market to be held on Thursday, and fairs on the 14th, 15th, and 16th of August. gº - f Young, in his Six Months' Tour, thus describes Mr. Worsley's house. “The approach is through a very large stone gateway, upon which is the following inscription: ‘Virtus in actione consistit;’ and as the building looks pretty much like the gable end of a large house, I mistook it at first (with that inscription) for an hospital: the entrance is directly out of the street for coaches, through a narrow passage into a large riding-house; then through the anti-space of two stables, and so up to the house- door. In the hall is an antique basso relievo of a Bacchamalian group ; two bronzes — Hercules squeezing Antaeus ; and a Hercules and a stag ; likewise a very good portrait of Bishop Williams. The chimney-piece is of white Sienna marble, with Doric pillars,” &c. § Here was formerly a chapel of ease to Hovingham. - | In Bulmer wapentake. - * CHAP. II. John Jack- son, Esq. Appleton. Farndale Eastside. Hutton. osedale. Spaunton. Great Ed- Stone. Hoving- ham. Church. Aryholme. Haw- thorpe. Cotton. Fryton. South Holme. Wath. Scack- leton. 476 HISTORY OF B O O K VII. Barton-le- Street, Butterwick £omeys- thorpe. Appleton- le-street. , Broughton Amother- by. Swinton. Gilling. Castle. Cawton. Grimstone North and South Cawton. Eyre- holme. BARTON-LE-StreET, five miles from Malton, has one hundred and seventy-six inhabitants. - The benefice, a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £14. 8s. 64d., is in the gift of the marchioness of Hertford. The church is dedicated to St. Michael. Barton hall is the seat of H. C. Leatham, Esq. Butterwick (population fifty), and Coneysthorpe (population one hundred and sixty), are small townships in this parish; the latter is situate in Bulmer wapentake. APPLETON-LE-STREET is a parish town, four miles from Malton; population one hundred and seventy-three. * * * * The church is a vicarage, dedicated to All Saints, and valued in the Liber regis at £7.8s. 6%d.: patron, the Rev. J. J. Cleaver. Broughton (population ninety-four), Amotherby * (population two hundred and forty-nine), and Swinton, with three hundred and thirty-four inhabitants, are small townships in this parish. The two latter places have chapels of ease to the mother church. * - Hildenley is a neat village with twenty-three inhabitants. The hall, a substantial structure, is the seat of G. Strickland, Esq., M.P. GILLING is a pleasant parish town, five miles south of Helmsley. In 1821 the township contained one hundred and sixty-eight inhabitants. The church is a rectory, dedicated to the holy cross, and valued in the king's books at £13. 10s. : patrons, the master, fellows and scholars of Trinity college, Cambridge. The castle here, which stands upon an eminence on the west side of the village, formerly belonged to the family of the Mowbrays; it has now been long in the possession of the ancient family of Fairfax. The most ancient part is the east end, which is circular, and commands the vale below. Thomas Fairfax came into possession of Gilling castle and estate, in the seventh of Henry VII. in consequence of his marriage with Elizabeth Etton. In this castle, a singular record is extant of the gentry in this county in the beginning of the reign of Queen Elizabeth. In the upper part of the panels of the wainscot of the great dining-room are painted armorial trees, bearing the arms of each family in every wapentake in this county at that period, one wapentake occupying each panel; all of which, together with the beautiful finishing, wainscoting, and carving of the whole room, are still in perfect preservation. : In this parish are the following townships: Cawton (population one hundred and five), Grimstone (population fifty-six), North Cawton f (population two hundred and seventy), South Cawton + (population one hundred and forty-eight), and Eyreholme ºf (population one hundred and seventy-seven). At the latter place is a * Here is a grammar-school, endowed with twenty acres of land. + In Gilling wapentake. T H E COUNTY OF YORK. 477 small chapel dedicated to St. Mary, and valued in the return to parliament at £63. 10s. 4d. It is held with Gilling. AMPLEFoRTH is an inconsiderable parish town (partly in St. Peter's liberty), with two hundred and fourteen inhabitants. The church peculiar is a vicarage dedicated to St. Peter, and valued in the Liber regis at £4.6s. 5%d.: patron, the prebendary of Ampleforth, in York cathedral. Here is a college for Roman catholics, established in 1802, by the members of the catholic college of Dieulouard, near Pont-a-Mousson, in Lorraine, their property there being confiscated by the revolution in France. Oswald Kirk quarter has a population of one hundred and seventy-six. SCAwToN, five miles from Hemsley, has one hundred and fifty-four inhabitants. The church, a rectory, dedicated to St. Mary, is valued in the parliamentary return at £79.2s. 7d. : patron, E. Worsley, Esq. The wapentake of Bulmer contains the following parishes:— AM NE, EASINGWOLD, MYTON-UPON-SWALE, STILLINGTON, BOSSAL L, FOSTON, NEWTON-UPoN-ouse, STOCKTON, BRAFFERTON, GATE HELMSLEY, OSBALDWICK, STRENSALL, BRANSBY, HINDERSKELF, OWERTON, SUTTON, BULMER, HOLTBY, ST, OLAVE MARY GATE TERRINGTON, CRAIKE, HUNTINgton, SALTON, THORMANBY, CRAMBE, HUTTONS AMBO, sHERIFF HUTTon, UPPER HELMSLEY, DALBY, MARTON, SRELTON, - WARTHILL, when BY, AND wiggingTon. - EASINGwoLD is a market and parish town, ten miles from Thirsk and two hundred and twelve from London. In 1821 there were one thousand nine hundred and twelve inhabitants, and three hundred and seventy-two houses here.* The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £10. 11s. 0}d.: patron, the bishop of Chester. The church, dedicated to St. John, is pleasantly situate on an eminence above the town, commanding a most extensive and delightful prospect over the ancient forest of Galtres, and the vale of Mowbray. In the interior is deposited a large coffin, made of oak, and secured at the joints with plates of iron, which (it is said) was used by the inhabitants in carrying dead bodies to the grave, previous to the introduction of coffins for interment; and, on their arrival at the place of burial, the corpse was carefully taken out of this common coffin, and laid in the grave, with no other covering than the shroud. CHAP. II. Ample- forth. College. Oswald Kirk quar- ter. Scawton. Bulmer wapen- take. Easing- wold. Church. Here are likewise chapels for the Wesleyan and Primitive Methodists, and for Chapels. Calvinists. * A market is held on Friday, and fairs on July 6, and September 26. WOL. III. 6 F 478 HISTORY OF B O O K . VII. School. Raskelf. The poor of this town enjoy the benefit of several excellent charities, the principal of which is a free-school, endowed by Mrs. Westerman, a native of Easingwold, who, by her will, bearing date 1781, bequeathed the sum of £2,500, four per cent bank annuities, for establishing a charity school in Easingwold: in which school are to be taught to thirty boys Latin, the English grammar, reading, writing, arithmetic, and book-keeping; and thirty girls reading, writing, and arithmetic. There is also another school, with a small endowment, free for ten boys of the township, and two Sunday schools, belonging to the Methodists. There are several chalybeate springs in this neighbourhood, the principal of which supplies the reservoir of a neat little bathing-house. - Raskelf is a small chapelry, with four hundred and forty inhabitants. - . The chapel is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Mary, and valued in the parliamentary return at £140: patron, the bishop of Chester. It is a small and ancient structure; the windows exhibiting, in rich painted glass, the arms of Neville, lord Dacre, Scropes of Masham, and Bolton, &c. - Craike. Castle. Osbald- wick. CRAIKE is a small parish town, forming part of the bishopric of Durham, with five hundred and thirty-eight inhabitants. It is twelve miles from Helmsley and York. The benefice is a rectory, within the archdeaconry and peculiar jurisdiction of the dean and chapter of Durham. It is valued in the Liber regis at £10, and is in the gift of the bishop of Durham, who is lord of the manor. The church, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, is a handsome edifice, enclosed within lofty trees. Craike, with the land three miles round it, was given by Egfrid, king of Nor- thumberland, to St. Cuthbert, in the year 685, by whom it came to the church of Durham; about which time the said St. Cuthbert founded a monastery here. This village is delightfully situate on the southern declivity of a lofty detached hill or mount, on the summit of which stand the ruins of Craike castle, which is supposed to have been a Roman fortress, and which, in the time of the Saxons, was a royal palace. From hence is a most extensive and delightful prospect of the forest of Galtres, and the beautiful and picturesque vale of Mowbray, so called from its ancient owner, Roger de Mowbray, who was bowman to William Rufus, and pos- sessed one hundred and forty manors in England and twenty in Normandy. He was the founder of the monasteries of Newborough and Byland. In addition to the parish church, here is a Catholic chapel, and a Methodist chapel. The freeholders in this place vote for knights for the county of Durham, pleas of land are held in the county of Durham, and the jurisdiction of the palatine extends thereto; but in the militia service the legislature thought it expedient to embody the inhabitants with the men of Yorkshire. ! ; OSBALDwick is a parish town, in St. Peter's liberty, two miles from York. Popu- lation, one hundred and seventy-six. The church peculiar is a vicarage, dedicated | THE COUNTY OF YORK. 479 to St. Thomas. It is valued in the Liber regis at £4: patron, the prebendary of Strensall. . . - •. Murton is a smalltownship in this parish. Population, one hundred and thirty- four. Here is anºáficient chapel of ease, dedicated to St. James, in which no service has been performed for many years. The hall is the seat of B. Smith, Esq. SALTON (in St. Peter's liberty) has one hundred and forty-eight inhabitants. It is five miles from Kirkby Moorside. The church, a vicarage, dedicated to St. John of Beverley, is valued in the Liber regis at £75: patron, J. W. Dowker, Esq., who has a pleasant seat here. • Brawby has a population of one hundred and eighty-eight. - SHERIFF HUTTON is a pleasant parish town, eight miles from Easingwold, with seven hundred and fifty-six inhabitants. r The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the return to parliament at £140. 18s. : patron, the archbishop of York. The church is dedicated to St. Helen; and in the choir is the extended effigy of a crusader, probably one of the Bytham family. Bertrand de Bulmer, in the reign of King Stephen, built here a neat castle, which was afterwards repaired by Ralph Neville, first earl of Westmoreland, who died in 1389. It continued in the possession of the noble family of the Nevilles until the death of Richard Neville, earl of Warwick, who was slain at the battle of Barnet, when his lands being seized by Edward IV. this castle and the manor were given to Richard, duke of Gloucester, the king's brother. Princess Elizabeth, heiress of the house of York, (afterwards married to king Henry VII.) was kept a prisoner here by Richard III. In the same castle' was confined Edward Plantagenet, earl of Warwick, only son of George, duke of Clarence, elder brother of Richard III.” The castle and manor became the property of Henry VII., and seem to have con- tinued in the hands of the crown until they were granted to Charles, Prince of Wales, afterwards Charles I. The late Lady Irwin, of Temple Newsham, died seized of the same, which are now in possession of the marquis of Hertford. The venerable ruins of this castle, consisting of seven stately towers, (one of which con- tains two spacious rooms,) are situate upon an eminence, commanding very rich and extensive prospects. John, the son of Ralph Neville, lord of Raby, obtained a charter, in 1377, for a market on Monday, and a fair annually on the eve of the exaltation of the holy cross, (September 14th, and two following days,) which are now discontinued. \ Here are chapels for the Wesleyan and Primitive Methodists, and two schools, each having small endowments. Sheriff Hutton park is the seat of George Lowther Thompson, Esq. Farlington is a small chapelry, with one hundred and seventy inhabitants. * Wide Todd's Castellum Huttonicum, 8vo. 1824. CHAP. II, Murton. Salton. Brawby. Sheriff Hutton. Farlington 480 - HISTORY OF B O O K. VII. Corn- brough. Lillings Ambo. Stittenham The benefice is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Leonard, and valued in the Liber regis at £133. 12s. : patron, the archbishop of York, , The following townships are in this parish: Cornbrough (poſſulation sixty-three), Lillings Ambo (population two hundred and eight), and Stittenham (population eighty-one). - At the last-mentioned place the knightly family of Gower had anciently a seat. Sir Allen Gower was sheriff for this county at the Conquest, and from whom the present marquis of Stafford, earl of Gower, viscount Trentham, baron Gower of Stittenham, is lineally descended. The family of the Gowers has produced many persons of eminence, amongst whom was the celebrated Sir John Gower, the poet, Overton. Shipton. Stillington Gate Helmsley. Skelton and contemporary with Chaucer. Overton is a very small parish town, five miles from York; the population amounts to fifty-nine persons. - - - The church is a vicarage, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, valued in the parliamentary return at £135: patron, Mrs. Earle. } • At this place the abbots of York had their chief country residence. “The old house,” says Drake, “ was standing here of late years, in the parlour of which, in 1661, Dr. Hutton read the following inscription on the wood work, ‘Post tenebras lucem,’ &c. The house called the hall continued in the crown till the fifth of Elizabeth, when it was sold to one John Herbert. But the site of the building, with the park, at Beningbrough, &c., is now part of the possessions of John Bouchier, Esq.” y - Shipton has three hundred and seventy-seven inhabitants. In 1655, Mrs. Mid- dleton, of York, endowed a school here with £40, for the education of the children of freeholders only. STILLINGTON, a parish town, (in St. Peter's liberty,) four miles from Easingwold, has six hundred and ninety-eight inhabitants. The church peculiar is a vicarage, dedicated to St. Nicholas. It is valued in the Liber regis at £4.15s. 5d.: patron, the prebendary of Stillington, in York cathedral. GATE HELMSLEY, a small parish town, six miles from York, has two hundred and nine inhabitants. - - The church, a vicarage, dedicated to St. Mary, is valued in the parliamentary return at £103: patron, the prebendary of Osbald, in York cathedral. SKELTON is a small parish town, four miles from York. It is partly in St. Peter's liberty, and contained, in 1821, a population of one hundred and eighty-seven. The benefice peculiar is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £5, in the parlia- mentary return at £130: patron, the archbishop of York. The church, dedicated to St. Peter, is very elegant though of considerable antiquity. It is said to have been built with the stones that remained after the south transept of York minster had THE COUNTY OF YORK. 481. been finished by Archbishop Walter Gray. Indeed the south door seems to re- semble that of the cathedral; alike adorned with curious pillars, though now much dilapidated. : - There are several handsome seats in this neighbourhood. Skelton grange belongs to E. Place, Esq., Skelton cottage to Mrs. Thomson, and Rose cottage to G. W. Drury, Esq. - . - BRAFFERTON, (Broad-ford-town, from a ford across the Swale,) on the road from Boroughbridge to Easingwold, has one hundred and seventy-eight inhabitants. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the king's books at £9. 15s. 6d., in the parlia- mentary return at £79. 10s. : patron, the king. On the outside of the chancel (south) are the arms of the Nevilles and other quarterings, carved on stone, and underneath, running round in Saxon monastic characters: “Orate pro animo Radulphi Neville CHAP. II. Brafferton. fundatoris hujus Ecclesia”—“Soli Deo honor et gloria 1° and on the largest bell is also inscribed “Radulphus Neville Armiger, I. H. S. 1598.” Here is a national school, supported by subscription. Helperby (population six hundred and eleven) is in St. Peter's liberty. Thornton Bridge* has forty-three inhabitants. BRANSBY is a small parish town, six miles from Easingwold. In 1821 it contained a population (including Stearsby) of two hundred and seventy-seven persons. The church is a rectory, dedicated to All Saints, and valued in the Liber regis at £9. 8s. 114d patron, Thomas Smith, Esq. F. Chomley, Esq. has a pleasant seat here. SUTTON-ON-THE-FOREST is a parish town, six miles from Easingwold, with a population of four hundred and forty-three persons. The church is a vicarage, dedicated to All Saints, and valued in the Liber regis at £17. 3s. 4d. : patron, the archbishop of York. Haby has four hundred and ninety-seven inhabitants. UPPER HELMSLEY, seven miles from York, is a small parish town, containing only sixty-three inhabitants. The church is a rectory, dedicated to St. Peter, and valued in the parliamentary return at £105. 13s. 2d.; patron, the king. HolTBY, another small parish town, is five miles from York, and has a population of one hundred and seventy persons. The church is a rectory, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and valued in the Liber regis at £8. . - * HUNTINGoon, three miles north of York, contains three hundred and forty- six persons. . . . . The church is a yicarage, dedicated, to All Saints, and valued in the Liber regis Helperby. Thornton Bridge. Bransby. Sutton. * In Halikeld wapentake. WOL. III. 6 G Haby. Upper Helmsley. Holtby. Hunting- don. 482 HISTORY OF B O O K VII. Earswick. Tow- thorpe. Thorman- by. Terring- toll. Gauthorpe Foston. Thornton- upon-Clay Stockton. Marton. Monastery Newton. Benning- brough. Linton. at £5, in the return to parliament £130. The sub-chanters and vicars-choral are patrons. - - - . Earswick has one hundred and thirteen, and Towthorpe fifty-eight persons. The small parish town of THORMANBY, four miles from Easingwold, has one hundred and eighteen inhabitants. The church is a rectory, dedicated to St. Mary, and valued in the Liber regis at £8. 2s. 11d. It is in the gift of Wiscount Downe. - TERRINGTON is eight miles from Malton, and has a population (including Wig- ginthorpe) of six hundred and seventeen persons. The church is a rectory, dedicated to All Saints, and valued in the Liber regis at £23. 18s. 6; d. Gauthorpe (the seat of Mrs. Forth) has one hundred and six inhabitants. Foston, eleven miles from York, contains ninety-one inhabitants. The church is a rectory, dedicated to All Saints, and valued in the Liber regis at £14: patron, the king. The township of Thornton-upon-Clay contains one hundred and seventy-three persons. Stockton-on-THE-FoREST is a parish town four miles from York, with three hun- dred and fifty-seven inhabitants. e The church is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £140: patron, the prebendary of Bugthorpe in York cathedral. MARTON is a small parish, five miles from Easingwold, with a population of one hundred and sixty-four persons. The church is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £52: patron, the archbishop of York. Bertram de Bulmer, in the reign of Stephen, founded here a monastery dedi- cated to St. Mary, for men and women of the order of St. Austin; but the nuns not long after were removed to Molesby. At the dissolution it was valued at £151. 5s. 4d. The little that remains of this house is only to be found in and near to a farm house bearing the name of Marton abbey. In the thirty-fourth of Henry VIII. 1543, the site was granted to the archbishop of York, in exchange for other lands. NEWTON-UPON-OUSE is a pleasant parish town, six miles from Easingwold. Popu- lation, four hundred and ninety-five. The church is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £90: patron, Mrs. M. Earle. Here are two chapels for Wesleyan and Primitive Methodists. Benningbrough contains ninety-nine inhabitants. The hall is the seat of Mrs. Earle. Linton contains two hundred and sixty-eight persons. - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 483 MYToN is a small parish town, three miles from Boroughbridge, with one hundred and eighty-five inhabitants. The church is a vicarage, dedicated to St. Mary, and valued in the Liber regis at £6: patron, the archbishop of York. at the west end. In the year 1820, the remains of the famous Roger de Mowbray were removed from Byland abbey, and interred here. A ferry for cattle, carriages, &c., passes over the Swale at this point, in view of the elegant mansion of M. B. Sta- It is a very handsome edifice, with a tower pylton, Esq.” HUTTONS AMBo is an inconsiderable parish town, three miles from Malton. Popu- lation, four hundred and forty-five. --- The church, situate in High Hutton, is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Margaret, and valued in the return to parliament at £106: patron, the archbishop of York, - - STRENSALL is a parish town, six miles from York. It is entirely in the liberty of St. Peter; and in 1821 contained three hundred and seventy-eight inhabitants. The church peculiar is a vicarage, dedicated to St. Mary, and valued in the Liber regis at £4, 13s. 4d. : patron, the prebendary of Strensall, in York Cathedral. ALNE is a parish town, four miles from Easingwold, with three hundred and eighty-six inhabitants. .* The church peculiar is a vicarage, dedicated to St. Mary, and valued in the Liber regis at £10 : patron, R. Bethell, Esq. . Alne house, a neat mansion, is the residence of S. Brooksbank, Esq. Aldwark (population one hundred and sixty-three), Flawith (population ninety- four), Tholthorpe (population two hundred and thirty-eight), Tollerton (population four hundred and eighty-one), Youlton (population fifty-six), are small townships in this parish. - - BossALL is a small parish town (having only thirty-one inhabitants), ten miles from York. . The church, a vicarage, dedicated to St. Botolph, is valued in the king's books at £12: patron, the dean and chapter of Durham. It is a handsome edifice, built in the form of a cross. * Sand Hutton is a chapelry, containing two hundred and two persons. The chapel is a perpetual curacy, under Bossal, valued in the parliamentary return at £122, 17s. 2d. Here is the seat of the Rev. T. C. R. Read. * “The family of Stapylton is of great note and antiquity, having been in the earliest times summoned among the barons to parliament, and been honoured with that most noble order of knighthood, the garter, at and soon after the institution thereof. They take their name from Stapylton upon the Tees. Sir Miles was high sheriff of the county from the twenty-ninth to the thirty-third of Edward III. They appear to have had residences at Carleton and Wighill, and settled at Myton in the reign of Charles I.”— Betham's Baronetage. CHAP. II. Myton. Huttons Ambo. Strensall. Alne. Aldwark. Flawith. Thol - thorpe. Tollerton. Youlton. Bossall. Sand Hutton. 484 HISTORY OF B {\ O K VII. Butter - crambe. Claxton. Flaxton. Harton. Warthi i}. Whenby. Crambe. Barton. Whitwell. Bulmer. The following are also townships in this parish: Buttercrambe” (population two hundred and thirty-five), Claxton (population one hundred and thirty-five), Flaxton't (population two hundred and ninety-nine), and Harton (population one hundred and minety). WARTHILL is a small parish town (partly in St. Peter's liberty), five miles from York, containing one hundred and fifty-three inhabitants. - The church peculiar is a vicarage, dedicated to St. Mary, and valued in the Liber regis at £3. 1s. 8d.: in the parliamentary return at £20: patron, the prebendary of Warthill, in York cathedral. : The hall is the seat of B. Agar, Esq. WHENBY, seven miles from Easingwold, contains one hundred and twenty-nine inhabitants. The church is a vicarage, dedicated to St. Martin, and valued in the Liber regis at £4. 8s. 4d., in the parliamentary return at £120: patron, W. Gar- forth, Esq. - B & - CRAMBE is a small parish town, six miles from Malton. Population, one hundred and fifty-two. . The church is a vicarage, dedicated to St. Michael, and valued in the Liber regis at £9. 1s. 8d., and in the return to parliament at £127. 12s. 4d. : patron, the arch- bishop of York. . Barton-le-Willows (population one hundred and eighty-eight), and Whitwell-on- the-hill (population one hundred and eighty-two), are small townships in this parish. At the latter place is Whitwell hall, the residence of the Rev. D. R. Currer. In the pleasure-grounds of this mansion is a well of remarkably clear water, from which the township derives its name. BULMER (from which the wapentake derives its name) is a parish town six miles from Malton. Population, three hundred and thirty-nine. The church is a rectory, dedicated to St. Martin, and valued in the Liber regis at £1.1 : patron, Earl Fitzwilliam. Welburn has three hundred and fifty-two inhabitants. Welburn. * “Aldby park, in this township, is the seat of H. Darley, Esq. Aldby, which signifies in Saxon an old habitation, is unquestionably the Roman Derventio mentioned by Ptolemy. It is situate on the banks of the Derwent, where many remains of antiquities are frequently found; and upon the top of the hill, towards the river, appears the rubbish of an old castle.”—Camden. It was at this castle, at that time converted into a royal palace by the Northumbrians, that Edwin, earl of Northumberland, nearly lost his life by an assassin. In the time of the Saxons, it was a royal village, now a single house. Drake, with some degree of probability, places this station at Stamford bridge; and Young, in his History of Whitby, with some ingenuity, attempts to fix it at Malton. t In the autumn of 1807, a leaden box was turned up by the plough in a field near this place, which contained about three hundred small Saxon silver coins, in high preservation, some silver rings, and several pieces of spurs. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 485 DALBY is a small parish town, nine miles from Easingwold. Population, including Skewsby, one hundred and sixty-nine persons. sº The church is a rectory, dedicated to St. Mary, and valued in the Liber regis at £5. 1s. 0}d.: patron, Mrs. Leyburn. WIGGINTON is a parish town, in the liberty of St. Peter, four miles from York. In 1821 it contained three hundred and nine inhabitants. The church peculiar is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £14. 13s. 4d. : patron, the king. The Rev. W. Dealtry has a neat seat here. The parish of St. OLAVE MARYGATE, in the suburbs of York, is in this wapentake. Population, six hundred and sixty-six. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £50: Lord Grantham is patron. The church is a handsome edifice, just without the walls of St. Mary’s abbey. It has a good embattled tower at the west end. ; Clifton, partly in St. Peter's liberty, contains two hundred and sixty-nine inhabi- tants. Rawcliffe has fifty-seven inhabitants. * HINDERSKELF is an extra or parochial township, six miles from Malton. Population one hundred and sixty-nine. Here is Castle Howard, the magnificent seat of the earl of Carlisle, six miles to the west of Malton. It is situate upon a beautiful eminence in view of the York road, and is undoubtedly one of the noblest mansions in England. It was built from a design of Sir John Vanbrugh, by the right honourable Charles Howard, earl of Carlisle, on the site of the old castle of Hinderskelf, which was con- sumed by fire. The exterior of Castle Howard is deemed by architectural criticism to be somewhat wanting in the qualities of lightness and elegance, and unity of parts. The state apartments are distinguished for grandeur of appearance; but the ceilings, as well as those of the other rooms in general, are remarked to exceed the usual proportion of height. The large and princely collection of antique busts, statues, marbles, urns, and paintings, with which this mansion is enriched, affords a high gratification to the admirers of the fine arts, while the liberality of the noble proprietor entitles him to the praise and gratitude of the public, for allowing them to participate of the pleasures arising from such a repository of taste and refinement. The hall is thirty-five feet square and sixty high, terminating at the top in a spacious dome, and ornamented with columns of the Corinthian and Composite order; but these are so large, and the height of the room so much beyond all regular proportion, that the area has a diminutive appearance. The walls are painted by Pellegrini, with the history of Phaeton, the four Seasons of the Year, the twelve Signs of the Zodiac, the four Quarters of the Earth, Apollo and Midas, Apollo and the Muses, Mercury and Venus, Vulcan, and various other designs. The room is adorned with several antique statues and busts. WOL. III. Q 6 H CHAP. II. Dalby. Wiggin- ton. St. Olave Marygate. Clifton. Rawcliffe. Hinder- Skelf. Castle Howard. 486 HISTORY OF B O O K. VII. The saloon is thirty-three feet by twenty-five, and its ceiling is ornamented with a representation of Aurora. Here are, also, several fine pictures and busts. To the left of the saloon is the following suite:— The dining-room, twenty-seven feet by twenty-three, is elegantly furnished with paintings, busts, and slabs. The chimney-piece is supported by fluted columns of Sienna marble, its cornice is of Sienna and white marble, with groups in the middle of polished white; and upon it are three bronzes, Brutus, Cassius, and Laocoon. The slabs are two, of Sicilian jasper, and here is a valuable urn of the finest green porphyry, with two busts, one of Marcus Aurelius, and the other of a bacchanal. The breakfast-room, twenty-one feet square, has two tables of verd antique, and one of nero bianco, a Roman slab of antique mosaic, and an urn of porphyry. The bed-chamber is twenty-one feet square. Here are some fine slabs of antique mosaic, and several bronzes. In the dressing-room is a very fine slab of antique oriental jasper in a border of flowered alabaster, and another of alabaster of volterra; and in the closet are two curious cabinets composed of precious stones, and an antique mosaic table. The antique gallery, a hundred and sixty feet in length by twenty in breadth, contains many beautiful slabs of the most rare and curious antique marbles, one of jaune antique, one of verd antique, two of mosaic, one of antique nerobianco, and three of spar; two tables of Egyptian granite, one round table with an alabaster urn upon it; an antique small statue, gilt and inlaid, found in Severus' wall; a very fine crucifix, and several pictures. - The drawing-room, twenty-seven feet by twenty-three, is adorned with rich tapestry, from the designs of Rubens, with two very curious slabs of flowered alabaster, one of red porphyry, and two fine pillars of green porphyry. Upon the chimney-piece are several antique bronzes. The blue drawing-room, twenty-eight feet by twenty, contains two tables of verd antique, one of nero bianco, a curious cabinet of precious stones, an urn of green porphyry, several busts, and numerous pictures. The state or gold bedchamber, twenty-six feet long and twenty-two broad, is hung with Brussels tapestry, from the designs of Teniers, and has a very elegant chimney- piece supported by Corinthian columns, the shafts of Sienna marble, the capitals, bases, and cornice of white, with pigeons of polished white marble in the centre of the frieze. Upon it stands the bust of Jupiter Serapis. Here are also two very fine slabs, one of antique oriental jasper in a border of flowered alabaster, and another of alabaster volterra; and in the ornaments above is the Doge of Venice (“marrying the sea”) by Canaletti, two cabinets of precious stones, a slab of antique mosaic, and other slabs of the most curious antique marbles. The green damask-room, twenty-seven feet by twenty-two, has two very fine slabs THE COUNTY OF YORK. 487 of blood-jasper, an oval of agate, inlaid with different kinds of marble, exceedingly elegant. The chimney-piece, of beautiful white marble, supports a Venus, a Mercury, and a horse. y The crimson figured room is thirty-three feet by twenty-six. Upon the walls are represented the principal incidents in the history of the Trojan war, painted by Pellegrini; viz. the Sacrifice of Iphigenia, the Rape of Helen, Achilles in disguise in the midst of the daughters of Lycomedes, king of Scyros, and Ulysses in search of him, Ajax and Ulysses contending for the armour of Achilles, Troy in flames, and Æneas bearing on his shoulders Anchises from the burning city. It is also adorned with four beautiful tables, two of them Egyptian granite, the other two jaune antique, and several busts and pictures. The yellow bedchamber has rich tapestry, representing Venus blindfolded by Cupid. The tapestry in the adjoining bedchamber exhibits Juno, and Cupid and Psyche, from a painting of Titian. The silver bedchamber contains a curious table of mosaic, which is a piece of Roman pavement, and a beautiful chimney-piece adorned with busts. The blue room, eighteen feet by sixteen, contains two tables, one a valuable piece of green antique oriental marble, the other of alabaster, and some fine pictures. The dressing-room has a chimney-piece of modern and antique mosaic, slabs of antique porphyry, and a very beautiful cabinet of the finest pebbles, &c. The museum contains many slabs of the most curious antique marble, some inlaid with different kinds of marble and precious stones; thirteen urns which have con- tained the ashes of ancient heroes, and one in representation of an Egyptian mummy; two pieces of mosaic work, an ancient mask, a basso relievo of Victory, (the attitude and drapery of which are excellent,) two groups, one a Cupid upon a goat, the other a Satyr holding a goat, and also several busts and pictures. A detail of the paintings at Castle Howard would be too extensive for insertion; a selection only will, therefore, be introduced. . The three of greatest reputation, namely, the three Marys, by Annibal Caracci; the entombing of Christ, by Ludovico Caracci; and the finding of Moses, by Velasquez-formed a part of the celebrated Orleans collection which adorned the gallery of the Palais Royal at Paris previously to the French revolution in 1798; and, amidst the wreck of princely grandeur and individual property at that tremendous period, were transferred to this country. In the park, which is very extensive, are the following ornamental buildings. The mausoleum is a circular edifice crowned with a dome, and surrounded by a handsome colonnade of Doric pillars. Over the vault is an elegant circular chapel, thirty-four feet in diameter, and sixty-nine feet high. Eight Corinthian pillars support the cornice over which the dome rises, mosaic in squares, with a rose in each; and the ornamental carvings of the whole room are light and pleasing. The CHAP. II. Museum. Paintings. Mausole- U.II] . 488 - HISTORY OF B O O K. VII. Temple. Birdforth wapen- take. Thirsk. floor is in different compartments, inlaid with marble; and here also is a fine table of antique mosaic. In another part of the park is an Ionic temple, with four porticos, and a hand- some room, fitted up chiefly with marble. The cornices of the door-cases are supported by Ionic pillars of black and yellow marble, and in the corners of the room are pilasters of the same. In niches over the doors, stand busts of Vespasian, Faustina, Trajan, and Sabina. The floor is in compartments of different antique marble, and the room is crowned with a dome ornamented with white and gold. A stately obelisk, upwards of a hundred feet high, and twenty feet square at the base, stands in the centre of four fine avenues: on it is an inscription to the cele- brated duke of Marlborough. The wapentake of Birdforth contains the following parishes: CAWSBY, EAST HARLSEY, KILBURN, SOUTH RILVINGTON, COLD KIRBY, FELISKIRK, KIRBY KNOWLE, SOUTH OTTERINGTON, coxWOLD, HAWNBY, OI,D BYLAND, THIRKLEBY, CUNDALL, HUSTHWAITE, OVER SILTON, TOPCLIFFE, - wellb URY, AND THE BOROUGH OF THIRSK. - THIRSK is a small market” and borought town, nine miles from Northallerton, twenty-three from York, and two hundred and twenty-two from London. In 1821 it contained five hundred and sixty-four houses, and two thousand five hundred and thirty-three inhabitants. Thirsk, which probably derives its name from the British words Tre, a town, and Isk, a river or brook, is situate upon a small brook called Codbeck, or rather Cotbeck, from the British word Cottae, signifying woody, which separates the old from the new town. That part called the new town stands near the site of an old castle, which formerly belonged to the powerful family of the Mowbrays. The moat and ramparts are still to be seen, at the west side of the town; but no vestige of the buil- ding remains. It was here that Roger de Mowbray commenced his rebellion against Henry II.; the revolt however was suppressed, and this castle, with many others, was demolished. The benefice, a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £98, is in the patronage of the archbishop of York. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, * The market is held on Monday, and there are fairs on Shrove-Monday, April 4 and 5, Easter-Monday and Whit-Monday, August 4 and 5, October 28 and 29, and the first Tuesday after December 11,– Ilangdale. ... ºr * + It is a borough by prescription, and sent members to parliament twenty-third Edward I., but made no other return till the last parliament of Edward VI. The last contest (there being only an account of two on record) was in 1672. The right of election is vested in the burgage-holders of old Thirsk— number of votes, fifty—forty-nine of which are in the hands of Sir Thomas Frankland, Bart. who returns both members. The returning-officer is the bailiff. The election took place on St. James's green, till 1818. - - Bº N-E------- -E-G-Rawi-º-º-wºrnº Les. jºrſ. As in ºr LoNDON. PUBLISHED BY L. T. HINTON 4 war WICK SQUARE 1830. sº. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 489 is a peat structure, having an embattled tower at the West end. The Quakers, Inde- pendents, and Methodists, have handsome chapels in this town. Carlton Miniot (partly in St. Peter's liberty) contains two hundred and twenty- one inhabitants. This place, with Sand Hutton, forms a perpetual curacy, in the patronage of the archbishop of York. • . Sowerby is a considerable chapelry, having seven hundred and forty-eight in- habitants. The chapel, a small ancient edifice, is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £120; patron, the archbishop of York. R. B. Livesey, and C. Cayley, Esqrs., haye handsome seats here. - - OLD BYLAND, four miles south of Helmsley, is a parish town, with one hundred and thirty-three inhabitants. The church is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £44: patron, G. Wombwell, Esq. - - Cawsey is a small parish town, seven miles from Thirsk. Population, ninety- one. The church peculiar is a rectory, dedicated to St. Michael, and valued in the return to parliament at £65: patron, Thomas Alston, Esq. - * : * * Here is a hospital, (by whom founded is uncertain,) for decayed housekeepers; the patrons of which are the Alston family. - g Coxwold is a pleasant parish town, five miles from Easingwold, with three hundred and forty-eight inhabitants. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, not in charge: patron, G. Wombwell, Esq. The church is an elegant structure, dedicated to St. Michael, and of very ancient date, supposed to have been built about the year 700. The tower is octagonal, and the chancel was rebuilt in the year 1777, by Henry, earl of Fauconberg. In the interior are several monuments for the noble family of Belasyse, the most elegant of which is that for the right honourable Thomas Belasyse, earl of Fauconberg, (in beautiful statuary,) who died the 31st of December, 1710, aged seventy-two; the most ancient is one for Sir W. Belasyse, dated April 14th, 1603. - - - At the entrance into the town from the west stands Shandy hall, where Sterne resided seven years, and in which he wrote Tristram Shandy and other works. Here is a free-school, which was endowed by Sir John Hart, knight, alderman, citizen and grocer of the city of London; wherein he provided competent maintenance and a stipend for one schoolmaster and one usher, dated 1600, salary £32. Here is an hospital for ten poor men. - - In this township is Byland abbey. Gerald, the abbot, with twelve monks from Furness, in Lancashire, having been disturbed by the incursions of the Scots, fled to York, and afterwards was entertained some time at the castle of Thirsk by Roger de Mowbray, who gave him the church and town of Byland, near which the abbot and monks founded a monastery and a noble church, about the year 1177, which flourished till the general dissolution. It was surrendered in the year 1540, by VOL. III. . 6 I - CHAR. II. Carlton Miniot. Sowerby. Old Byland Cawsby. Coxwold. Church. Shandy hall. Byland Abbey. 490 - - HISTORY OF B O O K VII. New- brough- cum-Mor- ton. Priory. Birdforth, Byland- cum-Mem- bris. Angram' Grange. - Oulston, Wilden Grange. Yearsley. Thornton- with- Baxby. Husth- waite. Carlton. Feliskirk. Precep- tory. the last abbot and twenty-four monks; when its yearly revenues amounted to £238. 9s. 4d. This abbey was situate near the foot of Cambe hill, in a place well adapted to devotional retirement, and was a large and magnificent structure; the site is in the possession of the Stapylton family. In the summer of 1818, Martin Stapylton, Esq., of Myton hall, by whose family the property is now possessed, caused a quantity of rubbish to be removed from the south side of the ruin; when a stone coffin, with the bones entire, was discovered here, and conveyed to Myton: and tradition says they are the remains of Roger de Mowbray. There also was dis- covered some beautiful tessellated pavement, in high preservation. Newbrough-cum-Morton contains one hundred and sixty-two persons. In 1145, Roger de Mowbray founded and endowed a priory here for canons regular of the order of St. Austin, valued at the dissolution at £367. 8s. 3d., according to Dugdale; and £457. 13s. 5d. by Speed. Here that learned and diligent historian, William of Newborough, was educated, and who took his name from this place. After the dissolution, it came into the possession of the Belasyses, viscounts, afterwards earls of Fauconberg. ... The hall, a handsome mansion, is the seat of T. E. W. Belasyse, Esq. Birdforth (from which this wapentake derives its name) is a small chapelry in this parish. In 1821 it contained forty-two persons. The chapel, a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £84, is under the patronage of the archbishop of York. * Byland-cum-Membris is a considerable township, comprehending Byland, Wass, and Oldstead. In 1821 the population amounted to three hundred and seventy- two persons. -- Angram Grange (population twenty-nine), Oulston (population two hundred and twenty-five), Wilden Grange (population twenty-nine), Yearsley (population one hundred and seventy), and Thornton-with-Barby (population seventy), do not re- quire further notice. - . Hust Hwa ITE, (in St. Peter's liberty,) four miles from Easingwold, contains three hundred and twenty-four inhabitants. The church, a perpetual curacy, is valued in the parliamentary return at £91. 4s. ; it is held with Carlton curacy. . . Carlton has a population of one hundred and sixty-nine persons. Here is a chapel of ease to Husthwaite. . Feliskirk is a parish town, three miles from Thirsk. Population, one hundred and thirteen. The church, a vicarage, dedicated to St. Felix, is valued in the Liber regis at £10: patron, the archbishop of York. - Mount St. John (the seat of the Rev. H. Elsey) was formerly a preceptory of the knights hospitallers of St. John. It came to the crown at the dissolution, and THE COUNTY OF YORK. 491 was exchanged by Henry VIII. for other lands, with the archbishop of York, in which see it now continues. It was valued at the suppression at £102. 13s. 10d. CUNDALL is an inconsiderable parish town, four miles from Boroughbridge, partly in Halikeld wapentake. Population, including Leckby, one hundred and seventy. The church, a mean edifice, is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Mary and All Saints, and valued in the return to parliament at £30: patron, N. Cholmley, Esq. Fawdington (population thirty-nine), and Norton-le-Clay (population one hun- dred and forty-two), are townships in this parish. - - EAST HARLSEY has four hundred and twenty inhabitants. The church is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £75: patron, J. C. May- nard, Esq. *. HAwNBy, six miles from Helmsley, contains two hundred and eighty-six in- habitants. The church is a rectory, dedicated to All Saints, and valued in the parliamentary return at £147: patron, Lord George Cavendish. Arden-with-Ardenside contains one hundred and thirty-nine persons. Here Peter de Hoton founded a priory about the year 1150, for nuns of the Benedictine order. Not a vestige of the monastic buildings now remains. Arden hall is the seat of D’Arcy Tancred, Esq. Bilsdale Westside (population one hundred and twenty-seven), and Daletown (population sixty-eight), are in this parish. KILBURN is a parish town, six miles from Thirsk. Population, five hundred. The church is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Mary, and valued in the parliamen- tary return at £65: patron, the archbishop of York. Here was an hermitage to Whitby, where Robert de Alnetto, a monk of Whitby, lived; but in 1138, through the influence of Roger de Mowbray, and Gundred his mother, it was converted into an abbey for monks of the Cistercian order, which was removed to Old Byland in 1143, and finally to Byland near Coxwold, in 1147. It is now merely a farm house, the thick walls of which, with its antique windows, and a stone coffin placed in the wall of the west building, prove its antiquity. SouTH KILVINGTON, about one mile north of Thirsk, is a small parish town, con- taining two hundred and sixty inhabitants. The benefice is a rectory, dedicated to St. Wilfrid, and valued in the Liber regis at £17. 10s. 10d.: patron, Sidney college, Cambridge. The church is an ancient edifice, and in it is a font, made in the reign of Edward IV., on which are sculptured the arms of the Scropes of Bolton and Upsall. The tradition of the neighbourhood has been, that it was removed to its present situation from the chapel of Upsall castle, in this parish.” CHAP. II. Cundall. Fawding- ton. Norton-le- Clay. East Harl- sey. Hawnby. Arden- with-Ar- denside. Bilsdale WestSide, Daletown. Kilburn. * Archaeologia, vol. xvi. p. 341, vol. xvii. p. 384. Abbey. South Kjl- vington. Church. 492 HISTORY OF b Q OK V | [. Thorn- brough. Upsall. Cold Kirby Kirby Knowle. Balke. Bagby. South Ot- terington. Over Sil- ton. Kepwick. Thirkleby. Topcliffe. Thornbrough has twenty-seven, and Upsall” one hundred and eighteen inha bitants. - CoLp KIRBY is a small parish town, five miles from Hekmsley, with one hundred and eighty-five inhabitants. The church is a perpetual curacy, yalued in the parliamentary return at £53, 5s, : patron, Lord Feversham. - - *- KIRBY KNowle, a parish town, six miles from Thirsk, contains one hundred and thirty-eight inhabitants. The church (an ancient edifice) is a rectory, valued in the Liber regis at £8.2s. 1d. : patron, Sir Thomas Frankland, Bart. Balke (population one hundred and twenty-five), and Bagby (population two hundred and forty-two), are small townships in this parish. At the last-mentioned village is a chapel of ease, erected a few years ago. SouTH OTTERINGTon is a small parish town, five miles from Northallerton. Popu- lation, two hundred and one. The church, a rectory, dedicated to St. Andrew, is J. Sampson. Over SILTON, eight miles from Northallerton, contains ninety-four inhabitants. The church, a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £38, is in the patronage of G. Wombwell, Esq. -- Kepwick has one hundred and seventy inhabitants. THIRKLEBY, four miles from Thirsk, contains two hundred and ninety-three inhabitants. - - - The church (rebuilt by Sir Thomas Frankland, in 1772,) is a vicarage, dedicated to All Saints, and valued in the parliamentary return at £148. 8s. 3d. patron, the archbishop of York. - The hall here is the seat of Sir Thomas Frankland, Bart. TopcLIFFE is a pleasant parish town on the banks of the Swale. In 1821 it con- tained six hundred and fifty-nine inhabitants...} The church is a vicarage, dedicated to St. Columb, and valued in the Liber regis at £19.19s. 2d.; patron, the dean and chapter of York. Topcliffe was formerly denominated the Jordan of England, because, in the year 620, Augustin and Paul baptized in the river Swale 10,000 men in one day, besides women and children. This took place somewhere between Topcliffe and Helperby. Leland calls Topcliffe “a pretty uplandish town.” It is most remarkable for having * The ancient family of Scropes had formerly a castle at this place, Sir Geoffrey le Scrope, chief justice of England in the reigns of Edward II. and Edward III., being lord thereof. The last male branch of the Scropes who held this manor and castle was the second Thomas Lord Scrope, whose sister, Elizabeth, married Sir Ralph Fitzrandolph, and with her went the castle of Upsall.”—Archaol. vol. xvi. What little remains here have been converted into a farm house and out-offices. + There are fairs here on July 18 and 19. T H E COUNTY OF YORK. 493 been, in the olden time, the chief residence of the Percys, earls of Northumberland. Their house was situate about half a mile south of the town, the ruins of which are yet visible, and called Maiden bower. Charles I. was a prisoner in this house, and a treaty was carried on for the sale of the king, between the Scots commissioners and a committee appointed by parliament, while he was kept a prisoner. Here is a free-school well endowed, but by whom or when founded is not known. It is free for the parish, and the master's salary upwards of £80 per annum. At Dishforth (population three hundred and forty) is a small chapel of ease, valued in the parliamentary return at £43. The vicar of the parish is the patron. Marton-le-Moor has two hundred and one inhabitants. A chapel here is valued in the parliamentary return at £58. 17s. 4d: patron, the vicar of Topcliffe. - . Asenby (population two hundred and thirty), Baldersby (population two hundred and forty-one), Catton (population ninety-nine), Dalton (population two hundred and thirty-five), Elmyre-cum-Crakehall (population seventy-eight), Rainton (popu- lation three hundred and forty-seven), and Skipton (population one hundred and ten), are townships in this parish. WELBURy, seven miles from Northallerton, contains two hundred and fifty-seven persons. The church is a rectory, dedicated to St. Leonard, and valued in the Liber regis at £7, 2s. 11d. : patron, the king. - The wapentake of Halikeld contains the following parishes: BURNESTON, KIRKBY-ON-THE-MOOR, KIRKLINGTON, PICKHILL, WATH, WBST TANFIELD. BURNESTON, three miles from Bedale, is a small parish town, with two hundred and eighty-eight inhabitants. The church is a vicarage, dedicated to St. Lambert, in the diocese of Chester, and valued in the Liber regis at £37.6s. 8d.: patron, G. Ellsley, Esq. Here are a Methodist chapel and a grammar-school. Carthorpe” (population three hundred and one), Gatenby (population eighty- eight), Theakstone (population eighty-seven), and Excelby, Newton and Leemingt (population five hundred and sixty-two), are townships in this parish. At the latter place is a chapel dedicated to St. John; it is valued in the parliamentary returns at CHAP. II. Dishforth. Marton-le- Moor. Asenby. Baldersby. Catton. Dalton. Elmyre- CU1 ſºl- Crakehall. Rainton. Skipton. Welbury. Halikeld wapentake Burneston. Carthorpe. Gatenby. Theak- Stone, Excelby. Newton and Leem- £43.6s. 2d.; patron, the vicar of the parish. Newton hall is the seat of the earl of ing. Darlington. KIRKBy-on-THE-MooR, one mile from Boroughbridge, contains one hundred and ninety inhabitants. * Here is the seat of W. R. L. Serjeantson, Esq. + “Leeming lane, hence the name of this village, is a Roman road, called the Ermine street. It is called Leeming lane from its stony composure, Lhe signifying a way, and Mean, in British, a stone.”- Stukeley’s Itiner. Curios. WOL. III. 6 K Kirkby- on-the- Moor. 494 HISTORY OF B O O K VII. The church is a vicarage, dedicated to All Saints; it is in the diocese of Chester, — and is valued in the king's books at £7. 13s. 6; d. : patron, the king. Humber- ton-with- Milby. Lang- thorpe. Kirkling- ton. Sutton- with- Humberton-with-Milby (population one hundred and twenty), and Langthorpe (population one hundred and forty-three), are townships in this parish. KIRKLINGtoN, a parish town, six miles from Thirsk, has three hundred and thirty- seven inhabitants. The church, a rectory, in the diocese of Chester, is valued in the Liber regis at :625. 7s. 3}d.: patroness, the Countess Ormonde. An old hall here, anciently a seat of the Wandesfords, is still in existence, and used as a farm-house. & Sutton-with-Howgrave (population one hundred and twenty-two), and East Tan- Howgrave. field (population thirty-two), are in this parish. East Tan- field. Pickhill. PICKHILL is seven miles from Bedale, and has three hundred and thirty-four inhabitants. The church, a vicarage, dedicated to All Saints, is valued in the par- liamentary return at £85: patron, Trinity college, Cambridge. : Ainderby-Quernhow (population ninety-nine), How, (population thirty-two), Sin- derby (population eighty-six), and Holme-with-Howgrave” (population one hundred and two), require no further notice. z Swainby-with-Allerthorpet has thirty-three inhabitants. Allerthorpe hall, now a farm-house, was for some time the residence of the cele- brated Mrs. Elizabeth Montague, whose letters, many of which are dated from this place, have been most favourably received by the literary world. Her father was Matthew Robinson, Esq. of West Layton, and nearly allied to Dr. Robinson, who founded the schools and alms-house at Burneston. WEST TANFIELD is a parish town, three miles from Masham. Population, seven hundred and nine. - The benefice, a rectory, in the diocese of Chester, is valued in the Liber regis at £13. 0s. 5d. : patron, the marquis of Aylesbury. The church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, is a handsome edifice, with a tower at the west end. In the chancel are many curious monuments of its ancient lords; and adjoining to which is the chantry called Maude Marmion, founded in the reign of Henry III., in which were a master, warden, and two brothers, who were to pray for the souls of John, lord Marmion, his wife, and their son; and for the health of Avice Grey, Lord Marmion, her son and heir, and his wife Elizabeth, and for the souls of their progenitors and successors. Ainderby- Quernhow. How. Sinderby. Holme- with-How- grave. Swainby- with- . . Aller- thorpe. Hall. West Tan- field, * In Allertonshire. + “Here Helewise, daughter of Ranulph de Glanville, founded, in the reign of Henry II., a religious house for canons of the Premonstratentian order; but she marrying Ralph de Ranulph, lord of Middle- ham, it was removed, in 1215, to Coverham, near his manor-house of Middleham ; he died in 1251, and was buried at Coverham.”—Dugdale.—Burton. Not a vestige of the building is now to be seen, though the unevenness of the ground points out very clearly its site. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 495 At this place, on the banks of the river, are the remains of Tanfield castle, but by whom built does not appear to be known. Little now remains of this edifice, except a lofty gateway, divided only by a road, which runs through the village from the parish church. Of the time of its demolition, little or nothing is known. Grose informs us, that, “Tradition says, when Tanfield castle was destroyed, the materials were purchased by several of the neighbouring gentry, and the earl of Exeter's house at Snape, and the seat of the Wandisfords, at Kirklington, were built with them.” WATH, four miles from Ripon, has one hundred and eighty-six inhabitants. The church is a rectory, dedicated to St. Mary, in the diocese of Chester. It is valued in the king's books at £17, 17s. 1d, and is in the patronage of the marquis of Aylesbury. Here is a school, founded, in 1690, by Peter Samwaise, who endowed it with lands, at Bellerby, value £70 per annum. Five pounds per annum are also paid to the master by Trinity college, Cambridge, out, of an estate at Middleton-Quernhow; this college also pays a donation of £10 per annum. Here is also an alms-house, built in 1698, and endowed by the above Peter Samwaise, containing rooms for two poor persons, who receive £2 14s. per annum, the interest of £60. Melmerby (population two hundred and fifty-eight), and Middleton-Quernhow, with one hundred and two inhabitants, are small chapelries in this parish. Norton Conyers contains eighty-seven inhabitants. The hall is the seat of Sir Bellingham Reginald Graham, Bart. This place had been the property of the venerable Richard Norton, who, with three sons, engaged, in 1569, in the religious rebellion of the earls of Northumberland and Westmorland, against Queen Elizabeth. This was soon suppressed. Mr. Norton and his sons were executed among multitudes of others, and his estate granted to a Musgrave, The wapentake of Hang is divided into the east and west division; the former contains the following parishes: who disposed of it to an ancestor of the present owner. BEDALE, HORNBY, MASHAM, SCRUTON, CATTERICK, KIRKBY FLEETHAM, PATRICK BROMPTON, THORNTON WATLASS, and WELLe BEDALE is a market” and parish town, six miles from Masham. In 1821, it con- tained two hundred and fourteen houses, and one thousand one hundred and thirty- seven inhabitants. The benefice is a rectory, in the diocese of Chester, valued in the Liber regis at £89. 4s. 9%d. : patron, H. Pierse, Esq. The church, dedicated to St. Gregory, is an ancient but respectable structure, with a steeple at the west end. There is a Methodist chapel and a national school in this small town. CHAP. II. Castle. Wath. School. Melmerby. Middleton- Quernhow. Norton Conyers. Hall. Hang wa- pentake. * The market is held on Tuesday, and there are fairs on Easter and Whit-Tuesday, July 6 and 7, October 11 and 12, and the Monday sennight before Christmas-day. Bedale. 496 HISTORY OF B O O. K. VII. Castle, The castle here was the residence, and most probably the foundation of Brian Fitz-Alan. It stood a little to the south-west of the church, from which it appears to have been detached only by a street. The foundations have been traced to a con- siderable extent from the gardens of Henry Pierse, Esq., the present owner of the site, into a field north-west from the church; but no vestiges now remain above the surface. Here is an hospital, founded by Dr. Samways, in 1718, and an ancient grammar-school; but neither the time nor the person by whom it was founded can be now ascertained. It is supposed to have existed before the dissolution, as a stipend of £7. 11s. 4d. is paid annually, at the audit holden at Richmond, out of the land revenues of the crown. Aiskew (population six hundred and twenty), Burrell-with-Cowling (population one hundred and thirteen), Crakehall* (population five hundred and fifty), Firby (population seventy-six), and Langthorne (population one hundred and thirty-five), are townships in this parish. Langthorne is in Halikeld wapentake. PATRICK BROMPTON, a parish town, three miles from Bedale, contains one hun- dred and fifty-eight inhabitants. The church, dedicated to St. Patrick, is a perpetual curacy, in the diocese of Chester, valued in the parliamentary return at £47: patron, the bishop of Chester. • *- The hall is the seat of G. Elsley, Esq. Arrowthorne (population sixty-four), Newton-le-Willows (population two hundred and fifty), and Hunton (population four hundred and ninety-six), are townships in this parish. The last noticed village is in the west division of this wapentake, and has a chapel (rebuilt in 1794) dedicated to St. John. It is valued in the return to parliament at £63, and is annexed to the parochial living. CATTERICK is a parish town, five miles from Richmond, and has five hundred and sixty-one inhabitants. It is a place of great antiquity, and was unquestionably a Roman city. Here the Roman road, the great Ermine street, crossed the river. Catterick is called Cattaractonium, and Cateracton by Ptolemy, and Cataracta by Bede. He considers Burgh to have been the quarter including the mint; Thorn- brough the station; and the limits of the city from the village to the bridge. But whatever the Roman city was, it has now, as Camden observes, nothing great but the memory of what it once was, having been totally destroyed by the Danes; and the modern Catterick is now only a village. “ Keterick,” says Leland, “is now a very poor town.” Here is an hospital for six poor widows, and teaching poor chil- dren, founded and endowed in 1658. The church is a vicarage, in the diocese of Chester, dedicated to St. Anne, and valued in the Liber regis at £25, 2s. 1d.: patron, the king. Here died, in 1673, that facetious and eccentric genius, Drunken Barnaby, Ol' Aiskew. Burrell- with- Cowling. Crakehall. Firby. Lang- thorne. Patrick Brompton. Arrow- thorne. Newton- le-Wil- lows. Hunton. Catterick. Church. Drunken Barnaby. * Here is the seat of H. P. Pulleine, Esq THE COUNTY OF YORK. 497 Barnaby Harrington, but whose real name appears to have been Richard Braith- waite, a native of Burneshead, in the county of Westmorland, leaving behind him, says Wood, the character of a “well-bred gentleman and a good neighbour.” He was the author of many popular pieces, as well as of the Journal. The following monumental inscription to his memory appears in this church: “Juxta site sunt Richardi Braithwaite de Burneshead, in comitatu-Westmorelandiae armigeri, et Mariae, ejus conjugis, reliqiuas , ille quarto die Maii, anno 1673, dematus est; haec undecimo Aprilis 1681. Supremum diem obiit horum filius unicus, Strafford Braithwaite, Eques Auratus: adversus Mauros, Christiani nominis hostes infestissimos, fortiter dimicans occubuit; cujus cineres Tingi, in Mauritani, Tingitana, humantu § Requiescant in pace.” - - Upon the south end of Catterick bridge was formerly a chapel or oratory, where, as tradition tells us, mass was said every day at eleven o’clock, for the benefit of travellers. By whom or at what time it was founded is not said or known. * Brough has ninety inhabitants. Brough hall, the seat of Sir H. M. Lawson, Bart., formerly belonged to the ancient family of Brough, from whom it had its name, and from them came into the present family by marriage. It has been built above two hundred years, but con- siderably improved and altered to its present state by the last Sir John Lawson, who added the wings. On the south side of the Swaile, opposite to Brompton, in this township, was the ancient hospital of St. Giles, founded, it is supposed, by Henry Fitz Randolph, of Ravensworth, in the beginning of the reign of Henry III. The annual payment of £8, which constituted the principal part of its revenues at the Reformation, was confiscated to the crown, and, becoming afterwards a rent- charge upon the estate of Sir John Lawson, of Brough hall, it was purchased by him some years ago from the crown. The hospital was, for a long time after its disso- lution, made use of as a farm-house; but, wanting many repairs, it was pulled down, and every appearance of it is now obliterated. - - Hipswell is a small chapelry in this parish. In 1821, it contained (including St. Martin’s abbey) twenty-three inhabitants. The chapel is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £55: patron, the vicar of the parish. Hipswell lodge is the seat of T. Hutchinson, Esq.” Killerby is a very small township, having only forty-eight inhabitants. g In the nineteenth of Edward I., Brian Fitz-Alan, of Bedale, obtained license to make a castle of his house at Kilwardeby. The castle which stood here was in ruins * Here was a priory of Benedictine monks, founded about the year 1100 by Whyomar, lord of Aske, chief steward to Alan, earl of Richmond. It was valued at the dissolution, in 1528, clear rental, at 4943. 16s. 8d. and surrendered by John Matthew, the last prior, and nine monks. The site was granted in the fourth of Edward VI. to Edward, Lord Clinton, lord high admiral of England, who sold it the same year to William Pepper, Esq., of St. Martin’s, and to Cuthbert and William Walker, of Richmond. The walls of the chapel, a tower, and some other fragments, are all that remain of this priory, and are fast mouldering away. WOL. III, 6 L CHAP. II. Chapel. Brough. Hipswell. Killerby. 498 *. HISTORY OF B O O. K. - VII. Kiplin. Scorton. Hudswell. Appleton. Colburn. Scatton. Tunstall. Ellerton- on-Swale. Uckerby. Whitwell. Hornby. Castle. Hackforth. Ainderby. Holtby. Kirkby. Fleetham. in Leland's time, who says, “Killarby castil ruine in Ripa citer Swalae, about a ii mile south from Keterick.” Here is the seat of T. Booth, Esq. - Kiplin contains one hundred inhabitants. The hall, a handsome edifice, is the seat of the Earl Tyrconnel. - § - Scorton contains four hundred and ninety-six inhabitants. Hudswell is a small chapelry. The chapel is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £66: patron, the vicar. - In this parish are the following townships:–Appleton (population eighty-seven), Colburn (population one hundred and thirty-three), Scatton (population one hundred and twenty-eight), Tunstall (population two hundred and fifty-three), Ellerton- on-Swale * (population one hundred and forty), Uckerby (population fifty-two), Whitwell (population ninety-nine). HoRNBY is a small parish town, partly in St. Peter's liberty, five miles from Bedale, with one hundred and two inhabitants. The benefice, a vicarage, dedicated to St. Mary, a peculiar under the church of Ripon, in the diocese of Chester, is valued in the parliamentary return at £85: patrons, the dean and chapter of York. Hornby castle, the seat of the duke of Leeds, is situate in this parish. Leland says, “Horneby castle a iii miles from Swale and a ii from Keterick.” This noble mansion was the ancient seat of the St. Quintins, which afterwards belonged to the Coniers. It came into the possession of Richard Lord Lumley by his marriage with Anne, one of the daughters of Sir John Coniers. A large portion of this noble edifice is as early as the Conquest; but the modern parts were built by Robert, the last earl of Holderness, from whom it passed into the present family, by marriage of Francis, the fifth duke, with Amelia D’Arcy, only surviving daughter and sole heiress of the said Robert, earl of Holderness. It is a spacious structure, some parts of which are of Gothic architecture, and others finished in the modern style. The paintings are numerous, and many of them by the first masters. Hackforth contains one hundred and thirty-four persons. Ainderby Myers, with Holtby, has seventy-nine inhabitants. KIRKBy FLEETHAM, five miles from Bedale, contains five hundred and fifty-six inhabitants. - - The church is a vicarage, dedicated to St. Mary, in the diocese of Chester. It is valued in the return to parliament at £147, 17s. 6d, and is in the gift of the king. The hall is the seat of Mrs. Lawrence. k MASHAM+ is a picturesque market and parish town, six miles from Bedale, and Masham. * The remaining townships are in East Gilling wapentake. + The Lords Scrope, of Masham and Upsall, formerly resided here; and Henry Lord le Scrope, lord treasurer, beheaded for high treason in the reign of Henry IV., and Archbishop Scrope, who suffered the same fate in the same reign, and for a similar offence, were of that ancient family. In the early part of º º -: E. tº 5 2 º' 3. - - | | º # - | - - | iſ 3 * º º º {{\\ º: º - - - - | | | Alſº - º | | º | - º º Hº! - º - s - ºf - | - | |Făzº ºn | == : | - - i = - | º --- | | HE º º | Fi º #Hº - - = º ºff- = * = - E - tº - : - [... º º - - - - - - THE COUNTY OF YOR. K. 499 two hundred and twenty-two from London.” In 1821, this town contained two hundred and forty-six houses, and one thousand one hundred and seventy-one in- habitants. ... - - - The benefice peculiar is a vicarage, in the diocese of Chester, valued in the Liber regis at £30. It is in the patronage of Trinity college, Cambridge, under which Lord Grantley, as lessee, holds the impropriate rectory. The church is a small stone edifice, commanding a delightful prospect, and is extremely neat and interesting within. Several of the tablets are very handsome ; and the monument of Sir Mar- maduke Wyvill is deservedly admired for its beauty and splendour. . The Methodists and Baptists have each a small chapel here: and there is a free- school for the education of thirty poor boys belonging to the parish. There is also a charity school for the education of twelve poor girls, begun by the late, and con- tinued by the present, Mrs. Danby, of Swinton park. # Swinton is a small township, with one hundred and seventy-seven inhabitants. tºº. 4 & Tººwººa" The hall is the seat of W. Danby, Esq. It is a large and elegant edifice, which boasts a fine collection of pictures, both by ancient and modern masters; an excellent assortment of ores, minerals, &c., properly classified; and has attached to it a beautiful park and pleasure grounds, inferior to none in this part of the country. Burton-upon-Ure (population one hundred and seventy), Ellinstring (population two hundred and four), Ellingtons (population one hundred and fifty-two), Fearby (population two hundred and fourteen), Healey-with-Sutton (population four hun- dred and thirteen), and Ilton-with-Pott (population two hundred and sixty-six), are townships in Masham parish. * SCRUTON, a parish town, four miles from Bedale, contains four hundred and eleven inhabitants. s The church is a rectory, dedicated to St. Radegund; it is in the diocese of Chester, and is valued in the Liber regis at £14. 0s. 5d. Scruton hall is the seat of J. Gale, Esq. It is a neat mansion, with well-disposed grounds.f. - THoRNTON WATLAss, three miles from Bedale, has one hundred and eighty inhabitants. - The benefice, a rectory, in the diocese of Chester, is valued in the king's books at £6. 10s. 10d. : patron, G. F. Wise, Esq. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, com- prises a nave and chancel, with a tower at the west end. About half way up the latter, a door on the right opens into a room with a stone floor, four paces square, CHAP. If. Church. Chapels. Swinton. the sixteenth century, the Scropes failing in the male line, the Burton estate came by marriage into possession of the Wyvylls, and the Masham estate into possession of Sir Christopher Danby, Knt. ; and it is now enjoyed by William Danby, Esq., of Swinton park. * The market is held on Wednesday, and fairs on September 17, 18, and 19. * Here that eminent critic and antiquary, Dr. Thomas Gale, dean of York, was born in 1636. Burton- upon-Ure. Iºllin- String. Ellingtons Fearby. Healey- with-Sut- ton. Ilton-with- Pott. Scruton, |Hall. Thornton Wallass. 500 HISTORY OF B O O K W II, Clifton- upon-Ure. Rookwith. Thirn. Well, Snape. Middleham in which is a fire-place, and other conveniences. For what purpose this room has been used, the records of the church are silent; probably as a watch-tower, it having small windows in the sides. - Thornton hall is the seat of Sir E. S. Dodsworth, Bart. Clifton-upon-Ure has fifty inhabitants. The castle is the seat of T. Hutton, Esq.* Rookwith (population seventy-six), and Thirn (population one hundred and twenty-six), are small townships. • - WELL, three miles from Masham, has three hundred and seventy inhabitants. The church is a vicarage, dedicated to St. James, in the diocese of Chester. It is valued in the parliamentary return at £63.6s. : patron, the master of Well hospital, C. Chaplin, Esq. Snape has six hundred and eighty-nine inhabitants. The hall is the residence of Miss Clarke. In 1605, Thomas, earl of Exeter, and Dorothy his wife, founded and endowed a house called Nevill’s workhouse, for the maintenance and education of 3. master and mistress, and eight poor girls of the townships of Well and Snape. ºf 1788, this house was changed into four free-schools, for a boy and a girl out of every house in each township, above the age of five, and under the age of thirteen. Snape hall, in Leland’s time, was “a goodly castel, in a valley belonging to the Lord Latimer, and ii or iii parkes well wodded.” MIDDLEHAM is a parish and market town, three miles from Leyburn, and two hundred and thirty-two from London. In 1821 this town contained one hundred and eighty-seven houses, and eight hundred and eighty inhabitants. The church is a rectory, + dedicated to St. Mary, and valued in the Liber regis at £15, 9s. 4%d.: patron, the king. There is a deanery and royal peculiar. Robert Fitz-Ralph had all Wensleydale bestowed upon him by Conan le Petit, earl of Brittany and Richmond, and built here a very strong castle. It was long afterwards the seat of the earl of Salisbury, son of Ralph Neville, earl of Westmor- land, and father of the great earl of Warwick. It came to the Nevilles by Mary, daughter of Ralph Fitz Randolph, who was married to Ralph de Neville, one of the ancestors of the earl of Salisbury. “This castel,” says Leland, “is the fairest castel in Richmountshire, next Bolton.” King Edward IV. licensed his brother Richard, duke of Gloucester, to erect a college here, of a dean, six chaplains, four clerks, and six choristers, to celebrate divine service in the church, and to be incorporated * “In the reign of Edward II. Geoffrey le Scrope, who had large possessions in these parts, obtained licence to make a castle of his house at Clifton-upon-Ure, and also for free warren in all his demesne lands at Clifton, &c.”—Dugd. Baron. This castle has long since ceased to exist, and the last remains were removed by the present proprietor in 1802, to make room for the present elegant modern mansion. + This rectory was converted into a college by Richard, duke of Gloucester, afterwards Richard III. : but, after his death, the design was given up, but the incumbent still retains the style of dean, the probate of wills, certain ecclesiastical jurisdiction, &c. - ſaeptae pertſ， |- |-|-| |- ----|-|-| |-|- |-ſogaevnôs （otwae + （nointſ:（i, 1 ！ſºsiaenaenocrºto， |- ſºro， №vos， ºs №woſº ſº：ſí |- =S=S= Ē ±± * º | | iſ) | Drawn by Nºwhittock. - - Engraved by J.Lambert. HIARDIRONº lºok clºs London Published by IT Hinton Awarº, sº ºngºo. - - - THE COUNTY OF York. 501. by the name of dean and chaplains of the college of Richard, duke of Gloucester, of CHAP. II. Middleham; yet before any buildings were erected, or provision made for the support of the chaplains or choir, Richard left the work imperfect, being prevented by the troubles in which he was involved, or by death. In 1467, Edward IV. was com- mitted prisoner to this castle by the earl of Warwick, from whence he had the good fortune to escape. Having been committed to the charge of Archbishop Neville, and being indulged with the privilege of hunting, and having probably bribed his keepers, he escaped on a fleet horse to York, thence to Lancaster, where he resumed the government. Richard III. frequently resided here; and in this fortress his only legitimate son, Edward, was born. “Green in years, but old in craft and cruelty,” says Dr. Whitaker, “amid the sports of the field, or the appearances of devotion, he probably meditated some of those tragedies which he afterwards performed.” The Bastard Fauconbridge, according to Stowe, was beheaded in this castle in 1741. The Dacres, earls of Holderness, have long held the constableship of the castle from the crown, and in consequence that office is vested in the duke of Leeds. “As it is, majestic in decay, Middleham castle is,” says Dr. Whitaker, “as an object, the noblest work of man in the county of Richmond. The views up and down Wens- leydale, from the windows of this castle, are delightful and picturesque.” The west division of this wapentake has the following parishes: AYSGARTH, * Downholme, HAWXWELL, sPENNITHORNE, COWERHAM, FINGHAL, MIDDLEHAM, THORNTON STEWARD, wensLEY, EAST WITTon, AND WEST witTon. - • * AYSGARTH, a parish town, situate on the south bank of the Ure, has two hundred Aysgarth. and ninety-three inhabitants. The church, a vicarage, in the diocese of Chester, is dedicated to St. Andrew; it is valued in the return to parliament at £122 11s., and is in the patronage of Trinity college, Cambridge. - . Aysgarth is remarkable, as having near the church the finest waterfall in the county, called Aysgarth force. - At Yoresmill, in 1601, a free grammar-school was founded and endowed by Grammar- Anthony Beeson, with a house situate at York. This school is open indefinitely i. school. the children of the four small villages in its vicinity, free of expense, for the classics only. Yoresbridge school is pleasantly situate upon the banks of the river Ure, nearly in the centre of Wensleydale, so justly celebrated for the beauty of its scenery, the fertility of its soil, and the salubrity of its air. The number of boys is generally seventy or eighty, and rarely under fifty. High Abbotside * has six hundred and fourteen inhabitants. High . Here is a waterfall, called Hardraw force, of a very striking character; the water Abbotside. falling in one vast sheet, from a ledge of rocks ninety-nine feet in perpendicular * Lunds, in this township, has a chapel of ease, valued in the parliamentary return at £72. 7s.6d. WOL. III. 6 M 502 HISTORY OF B O O K. VII. Low height. The ravine, or chasm, which extends below the fall, is bounded on each side by huge masses of rock, and is about three hundred yards in length. Behind the fall is a deep recess or cavern, whence a good view of it may be obtained with safety. During the hard frost in the year 1741, a prodigious icicle is recorded to have been found here, of the whole height of the fall, and nearly equal in circumference. Low Abbotside * (population one hundred and eighty-one), Bishopdale (population ninety-five), Burton-with - Walden (population four hundred and seventy-eight), Carperbyt (population two hundred and eighty-three), Newbiggin (population one hundred and twenty-eight), Thoralby (population three hundred and forty-two), and Thornton Rust (population one hundred and thirty-five), are townships in this parish. Askrigg is a market; town and township in this parish. It is five miles from Hawes, and contains seven hundred and sixty-five inhabitants. It is a place of great antiquity, and is situate in the centre of Wensleydale, near the northern bank of the Ure, in a district abounding with romantic and beautiful scenery. About half a mile from Askrigg is a waterfall, called Millgill force, which makes one grand vertical fall of about twenty or thirty yards, and then rushes down the rocky bed of the ravine. The scenery at the junction of the Ure with Mossbeck fell, is rich in the picturesque. The church, dedicated to St. Oswald, is a perpetual curacy, in the diocese of Chester, valued in the return to parliament at £80. It is held with the vicarage of Aysgarth. It is an ancient edifice, and from the roof of the vestry is growing an ash tree. - - At Bainbridge (population eight hundred and seventy-two) was formerly a Roman Here is a small but beautiful lake, called Seamer water, covering about one hundred and five acres. At Stalling, in this township, is a small chapel of ease, valued in the return to parliament at £94. § . - . : * • In 1807 Christopher Alderson, Esq. of Homerton, Middlesex, a native of Askrigg, founded and endowed here an almshouse, for six poor widows, with £10 per annum each. “Not far from this place and close to Meerbeck,” Dr. Whitaker informs us, “is the original site of Jervaulx abbey, since its - The abbey of Fors, or de Caritate, stood almost on the brink of the Meerbeck, about one hundred yards south from the road leading from Askrigg to Bainbridge. Some recent alterations having been made in a barn which occupies the spot, I discovered one round-headed light, a genuine remnant of the original building ; and there still remains in the Wall a single trefoil window, from which I infer that the monks of Jervaulx, out of reverence to the place of their origin, maintained a small cell upon the site long after, and perhaps to the dissolution.” . t At Thoresby, in this township, was formerly a seat of the ancient family of Thoresby, and where it is said John Thoresby, archbishop of York, was born, who died in 1373. - ... f The market is held on Thursday, and there are fairs on May 11, the first Thursday of June, and October 28 and 29. & º * * - - - . . . i . § “Every night at ten o’clock, from Holyrood, September 27, to Shrovetide, a horn is blown, called, the forest horn, of which tradition affirms, that it was intended as a signal to the benighted traveller to Abbotside. Bishop- dale. Burton- with- Walden. Carperby. Newbig- gin. Thoralby. Thornton Rust. Askrigg. Church. Bainbridge abandonment long known by the name of Dale grange, and now by that of the Grange alone. station of considerable extent. ºg gaſ TIVO ÚSBIOLA，T，№ NOINTH （LI）I， OESTIgnaſ NOCĪNOT • "If I （I, I， XI o ‘GIGIS S OWN HIJ, IAA.|- º ¿Q GJIĀJI, ŠIO NOJŮ) NQſ ºs 5，00ētº |- |-| zººººººaeae THE COUNTY OF YORK, 503 • Hawes is a small market” town in this parish, with a population of one thousand four hundred and eight persons. The church is a perpetual curacy, of the value of £86. 19s. : patrons, the land owners of the township. - Here is a grammar-school, founded by the inhabitants, and endowed by them with a salary of £10. . . . . . . . . . . . . Coverham is a small parish town, two miles from Middleham, with a population. of (including Agglethorpe,) one hundred and thirty-one persons. The church is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to the Holy Trinity. It is in the diocese of Chester, and is valued in the parliamentary return at £80: patron, Sir J. B. Graham. Coverham abbey, which stands on the north side of the rapid brook of Cover, which gives name to the dale, was built by Radulphus, son of Robert Fitz Ralph, for white canons of the Premonstrantensian order, about the year 1213, who endowed it with several lands and tenements. He died in 1251, and was buried here. tion which is now placed over the door of Mrs. Lister's house, which leads into the garden, it appears that this monastery was either thoroughly repaired or rebuilt abóut the latter end of the reign of King Henry VII. It bears the date of 1501, and states “ the abbot finished this house.” In building some outhouses, were dug up, some years since, two statues larger than life, habited in the armour of knights templars, in a cumbent posture, ornamented with foliage and animals, but in a very rude style. These statues, in 1812, were placed on each side of the door leading into the garden of Mrs. Lister, and which are said to be the figures of the founder of the abbey, and Robert Fitz Randolph, founder of Middleham castle. Its revenues at the time of the dissolution, 1538, amounted to £160. 18s. 3d. clear. It was sold, in 1557, to Humphry Orme, for £419. 15s. ; Coldbridge (population one hundred and three), Carlton (population two hundred and eighty), Carlton Highdale (population three hundred and ninety-eight), Mel- merby (population one hundred and twelve), and West Scrafton (population one hundred and forty-six,) are townships in this parish.t - * * Down Hol.ME, six miles from Richmond, has a population, with Walburn, of one hundred and thirteen persons. The church, a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Michael, is in the diocese of Chester. It is valued in the parliamentary return at £88: patron, J. Hutton, Esq. . . . . . - - * Ellerton Abbey has forty-seven inhabitants. - - * A small priory of Cistercian nuns was founded at this place, in the reign of Henry II. The house is styled a priory by Leland, but Tanner says it was an abbey. By an inscrip- CHAP. II. Hawes. Coverham. Abbey. direct his footsteps to the nearest points which could afford him shelter and accommodation.”—Whitaker. This is a part of the old forest laws. § • * The market is held on Tuesday; and there are fairs on Whit Tuesday and September 28. + In Coverdale, in this parish, was born, in 1487, Miles Coverdale, the learned bishop of Exeter. Cold- bridge. Carlton. Carlton Highdale. Melmerby West Scraſton. Down- holme. Ellerton Abbey. 504 HISTORY OF B O O. K. VII. Stainton. Finghall. Church. Akebar. Hang Hutton. Burton Constable. West Hawxwell Barden, Garriston, Spenni- thorne. Church. Bellerby. Thornton. Steward. Church. the diocese of Chester. Warnerius, dapifer to the earl of Richmond, or his son Wymerus, are supposed to On the dissolution it was valued at £14. 8s. per annum, Aske, Esq. , have been the founders. and was granted in the 33d of Henry VIII. to J. Stainton has fifty-four inhabitants. FINGHALL, a parish town, five miles from Middleham, contains one hundred and twenty-six inhabitants. - - & The church is a rectory, dedicated to St. Andrew. It is in the diocese of Chester, and is valued in the Liber regis at £18, 18s. 4d. : patron, M. Wyvill, Esq. Akebar (population forty-three), Hang Hutton (population twenty-five), and Burton Constable (population two hundred and four), are townships in this parish. At the latter place is Burton hall, the seat of the Rev. C. Wyville. Burton Constable is surrounded by one of the largest and handsomest parks in this part of the county. The house,” a modern fabric, with a portico to two fronts, is elegantly fitted up, and adorned with some good paintings. • * WEST HAwkwell, a parish town, five miles from Richmond, contains one hundred and seventy-six inhabitants. The church is a rectory, dedicated to St. Oswald, in It is valued in the Liber regis at £20. 14s. 4d. : patrons, Mr. and Mrs. Gale. Barden (population one hundred and six), and Garriston (population fifty-two), are inconsiderable townships. - SPENNITHORNE is a small parish town, one mile from Middleham. Population, two hundred and forty-nine. - o - The church, a rectory, dedicated to St. Michael, is in the diocese of Chester. It is valued in the Liber regis at £20. 10s. 5d., and is in the patronage of M. Wyville, Esq. - Here are the seats of Mrs. Chaytor and T. Straubenzie, Esq. - Bellerby has four hundred and seven inhabitants. Here is a parochial chapel, valued in the parliamentary return at £80. - THORNTON STEwARD, six miles from Leyburn, contains two hundred and sixty-five inhabitants. - The church is a vicarage, in the diocese of Chester. It is dedicated to St. Oswald, and is valued in the Liber regis at £6. 13s. 11; d. : patron, the bishop of Chester. Wensley. In 1815, Mr. George Holme, a native of this place, built a school-house here, and endowed it with £10 per annum. . . - WENSLEY is a parish town, three miles from Middleham. Population, three hundred and seventeen persons. * “To make room for the present mansion, a house designed by Inigo Jones is said to have been demolished by the presumption of an architect, in the owner’s absence, and contrary to his instructions.” | | º | | |º - T THE COUNTY OF YORK. * 505 The church, a rectory, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, is in the diocese of Chester. It is valued in the Liber regis at £49. 9s. 9%d.: patron, Lord Bolton. CHAP. II. Bolton hall, the seat of the Hon. T. O. Powlett, was built by the marquis of Bolton - Winchelsea, the first duke of Bolton, in 1678. It is a handsome edifice, and stands in nearly the centre of Wensleydale. . Leyburn is a pleasant market” town in this parish. Population, eight hundred and ten. Here are Methodist, Independent, and Catholic chapels. Bolton or Castle Bolton, is a small township, with eight hundred and ten inhabitants. The chapel is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Oswald, and valued in the parliamentary return at £68. It is held with Wensley. hall. Leyburn. Bolton. On the brow of a hill, and on the north side of Wensleydale, stands frowning the Castle. remains of a castle, which was built by Richard le Scrope, chancellor of England, in the time of Richard II. This prince granted his license to Richard le Scrope, chevalier, to found a chantry of six chaplains in this castle, and endowed it with the yearly rent of £106. 13s. 4d. In this castle the beautiful, but unfortunate, Mary Queen of Scots was confined in 1568. Her name, inscribed by herself, appeared, till lately, on a pane of glass in the window of the room of her confinement. Although Lord Scrope, her gaoler, had given no reason to dispute his vigilance or fidelity, yet Queen Elizabeth caused her to be removed to Tutbury castle, and committed her to the keeping of the earl of Shrewsbury. Perhaps Lord Scrope being brother-in-law to the duke of Norfolk, who formed a design of mounting the throne, by marrying Mary, might be the reason why Elizabeth changed her confinement. During the civil wars this castle was long defended for the king, by Lord Scrope and a party of the Richmondshire militia, against the parliamentary forces, but surrendered on honourable terms, November 5, 1645. Emmanuel, Lord Scrope, who died without male issue, in the reign of Charles I., was the last of the family who inhabited this castle. The building of this stately fabric occupied eighteen years, and cost £12,000. It is the property of Lord Bolton, (from whence the title is derived,) having descended to that family by the marriage of one of his ancestors with a daughter of Emmanuel, Lord Scrope and earl of Sunderland. From neglect, and the damage it received during the siege, the tower on the north-east angle became so much injured, that on the 19th of November, 1761, it fell to the ground. But though the east and north sides are mostly in ruins, the west front is in good repair. Redmire is a small chapelry, with three hundred and ninety-nine inhabitants. The chapel is dedicated to St. Mary, and valued in the Liber regis at £32.2s. patron, the vicar of the parish. * The market is held on Friday, and fairs on the second Fridays in February, May, October, and December - WOL. III. - 6 N Redmire. 506 - HISTORY OF B O O K VII. Preston- under- Scar. East Witton. Church. Jerveaux abbey. Preston under Scar has three hundred and seventy-eight inhabitants. - EAST WITToN * is a parish town, two miles from Middleham. Population, seven hundred and forty-seven. - The church, a handsome modern structure, erected by the earl of Aylesbury in 1809, is a vicarage, in the diocese of Chester. It is valued in the parliamentary return at £111, and is in the patronage of the above nobleman. In this parish are the remains of Jerveaux abbey, the property of the earl of Aylesbury. “Gervalz abbey,” says Leland, “ of white monkes, ripa citeriori, a ii miles beneth Middleham.” Akarius Fitz Bardolph, in the time of King Stephen, gave to Peter de Quinciano, a monk, and to other monks of Savigny, certain lands at Fors and Worton, in Wensleydale, being part of his possessions; where, in 1145, they began to lay foundations of a monastery of their order, Cistertians, which was successively called the abbey of Fors, Wensleydale, and Charity. The donations that had been made by Akarius and others appear to have been confirmed by Alan, earl of Richmond. Serlo, then abbot of Savigny, disapproved of the foundation, as made without his knowledge and consent; neither did he choose, though re- peatedly solicited by Peter, to supply it with monks from his convent, on account of the great difficulties experienced by those he had before sent into England. He therefore, in a general chapter, proposed that it should be transferred to the abbey of Belland, (Byland,) which, from its vicinity, would be better able to lend the necessary assistance required in its yet infant state. This being agreed to, twelve monks, with Joker de Kingston for their abbot, were sent them from that house. After undergoing great hardships from the smallness of their endowment and sterility of their lands for some time, (during which they had received occasional relief from the abbot of Byland,) Conan, son to Alan, earl of Richmond, greatly increased their revenues; and, in 1156, removed their monastery to a pleasant and healthy valley in East Witton, the present situation. This was done with the consent of Harveus, . the son of Akarius, the founder, who took care to reserve to himself the patronage of the abbey, as well as the prayers of the monks, usually offered up for the founder and his relations, and that the bones of his father and mother should be removed to an honourable place in the new monastery. In this place the monks erected a magnificent church and monastery, which, like most of the Cistertian order, was dedicated to St. Mary. At the dissolution, according to Speed, it was valued at £455. 10s. 5d. ; or £234, 18s. 5d. according to Dugdale. The site, in the 36th of Henry VIII., was granted to Matthew, earl of Lenox, and Lady Mar- garet his wife. What little remained of this ancient structure had become, nearly overgrown with rough wood and briars, and scarcely any trace of it, as a building, * There are fairs here on May 3, and November 20 and 23. - | " . | | | | º | THE COUNTY OF YORK. 507 was seen, except some few arches, nearly level with the ground; when in 1805, the late earl of Aylesbury visited this place, and among a great variety of improvements projected upon his estate, was much pleased with an experiment that had been made by his steward in digging down to the bottom of one of the arches, which proved to be the door of the abbey church, and led to a beautiful floor of tesselated pave- ment. His lordship caused the whole of this ruin to be explored and cleared out, which was done in 1806 and 1807, at a very considerable expense, as the base of the building was buried several feet below the surface; when the abbey church and choir, (two hundred and seventy feet in length,) with the transepts and high altar, and several tombs,-the chapter-house, (forty-eight feet in length by thirty-five in width,) with Purbeck marble pillars, formerly supporting the roof, were discovered; also the abbott’s house, the garden, kitchen, refectory, cloisters, and dormitory.* WEST WITTON, four miles from Leyburn, has a population amounting to five hundred and nineteen persons. . . . - - The church is a perpetual curacy, in the diocese of Chester, valued in the parliamentary return at £75: patron, Lord Bolton. * It was under the skilful superintendance and direction of John Claridge, Esq. who resides near the spot, that this object was so successfully accomplished. In order to preserve this ancient site, it has been enclosed by a sunk fence, in part, or by a wall; and over the entrance is the following in- scription, viz. - CHAP. II. West Witton. Church. “Yorevale-Abbey, founded Anno Domini 1141, demolished Anno Domini 1587. These ancient Ruins were traced out and cleared by order of the Right Hon. Thomas, earl of Ailesbury, Anno Domini 1807.” - - g 508 HISTORY OF T} O O K VII. Gilling wapentake Richmond. Castle." CHAPTER III. SURVEY of THE WAPENTAKES OF GILLING, LANGBARGH, AND ALLERTONSHIRE. THE wapentake of Gilling is divided into the east and west divisions; the latter, a large part of which is in the district called Richmondshire, contains the fol- lowing parishes:– - ARKENGARTHDALE, GILLING, MARSK, BARNINGHAM, GRENTON, MELSONBY, Bow Es, HUTTON MAGNUM, ROKEBY, BRIGNALL, KIRBY RAVENSWORTH, ROMALDKIRK, EASBY, MANFIELD, STANWICK ST. John, ForcETT, - MARRICK, STARTFORTH, WYCLIFFE, AND THE BORough QF RICHMOND. RICHMOND” is an ancient market F and parish town, five miles from Catterick, and two hundred and thirty-four from London. In 1821, this borough contained seven hundred and thirty-eight houses, inhabited by three thousand five hundred and forty-six persons. This place is famous for its castle, which, as well as the town, was built by the first Earl Alan, son of Hoel, count of Bretagne. Alan, who was a kinsman of William, duke of Normandy, accompanied that prince in his expedition to England, and was rewarded with the lands of the Saxon earl, Edwin, which COIl- sisted of no less than near two hundred manors and townships. This donation was made, A. D. 1070, at the time when William was employed in the siege of York, which the said Edwin, earl of Chester, and the Northumbrian earls, Morcar and Waltheof, bravely defended against him. The Conqueror also conferred on Alan another mark of his favour, in giving him Hawise, his daughter, in marriage. In the reign of Charles II., the honours and * This town gives name to an extensive district called Richmondshire, including the wapentakes of Hallikeld, Gilling-East, Hang-East, Gilling-West, and Hang-West; being the north-west corner of Yorkshire, and over which his grace the duke of Leeds is lord and chief bailiff. t The market is held on Saturday, and there are fairs on the Saturday before Palm-Sunday, last Saturday in June, and September 26. - | | º * º # º 3. º § º H à H H ！ſnos （Iſaeae noſūH II， dºſisſiºnā NOCINOT ſaevo ， ：o） Haeae ） Haawº. Britºrrrock. - ---------------- INTERIOR of the GREAT. Tº of RIICIÉCMONJD) (CASTLE. LONDON PUBLISHED BY 1 THINTON E WARWICK SQUARE. 1820. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 509 titles of this duchy devolved on the illustrious family of Lenox, the present possessor being the duke of Richmond. The castle is on the south side of the town, overlooking the Swale, which runs in a deep valley beneath. Between the river and the site of the castle is a walk of eight or nine feet in breadth, about sixty perpendicular above the bed of the Swale, and presenting to the eye a tremendous precipice. The ground on which the castle stands is elevated forty or fifty feet above this walk, and is faced on that side with massy stones, resembling a matural rock. The eastern side of the castle yard is also skirted by the Swale; but here the descent, instead of being precipitous, as on the south, slopes down for the space of forty or fifty yards to the river. The west side of this once almost impregnable fortress is faced with a deep valley, the ascent from which, to the castle, is exceedingly steep. On the north, the site of the castle is very little elevated above that of the town; and this is the only side on which it could have been accessible to an enemy. This castle yet appears majestic in ruins. The keep, of which the shell is almost entire, is about one hundred feet high, and the walls are eleven feet thick: the lower story is supported by a vast column of stone in the middle, from which spring circular arches closing the top; the staircase goes only to the first chamber, the rest of it being dilapidated, as the floors of the two upper rooms are fallen in. In this keep is a well of excellent water. The ruins of several other parts of the castle yet remain. In the south-eastern corner of the area is a ruinous tower, in which is a dismal dungeon, thirteen or fourteen feet deep, and undoubtedly de- signed as a place of confinement. The site of this castle contains nearly six acres, and belongs to his grace the duke of Richmond. - - The country round Richmond is highly picturesque. Swaledale, in particular, is in many places skirted with bold perpendicular rocks, almost covered with trees and shrubs. From the hills, on the north-west side of the town, the eye is regaled with the most magnificent prospects. Richmond and its castle, though seated on a precipitous hill, more than one hundred feet above the bed of the Swale, when seen from these elevations, seem to be sunk in a deep valley. The eye ranges over the country adjacent to the Tees, with Cleveland, and the vale of York; and the eastern and western moors, rising in mountainous grandeur, form a magnificent contrast to those extensive plains. - The benefice is a rectory, in the diocese of Chester. It is valued in the Liber regis at £15. 5s. 7#d., and is in the patronage of the king. The church, situate on the declivity of the hill, is dedicated to St. Mary. It is provided with a fine-toned organ, and within the church and the burial ground are several interesting monu- ments. The chapel of the Holy Trinity stands in the middle of the town, and formerly WOL. III. 6 O CHAP. III. Castle. Church. 510 - HISTORY OF B O O K VII. Chapels. Grey Friars. belonged to St. Mary's at York. The consistory court for the archdeaconry of Richmond is held in two rooms adjoining the north aisle in this chapel. ^ The Methodists have a handsome and commodious chapel in Ryder's wynd, built in 1807; the Quakers have also a meeting-house in Fryer's wynd, but it is now otherwise appropriated. There is also a Baptist chapel. Besides these places of Protestant worship, a Catholic chapel was erected in 1811, in Newbiggin, at a cost of £900, by Sir John Lawson, Bart., in the principal window of which there is a fine painting of the Crucifixion. - At the back of French-gate, a little without the walls, stood the monastery of the * Grey Friars, founded in 1257, by Ralph Fitz Randal, lord of Middleham, and after * flourishing nearly three centuries, was surrendered, in 1538, by Robert Sanderson, the last prior, and fourteen brethren. Several of the families of Scroop, Plessey, and Frank, were buried here. In the time of Leland, the house, garden, orchard, and meadow, were walled in, and the edifice existed unimpaired; but there now .# remains only a solitary steeple, majestic and beautiful in ruins, to mark the residence and the sanctuary of that order of mendicants, called after their founder, Fran- ciscans. The ruins of this monastery, and the premises, with the walls, are now the property of John Robinson, Esq. To the west of the friary was a nunnery; but it has disappeared, and even its history is unknown. - 3. The ruins of the monastery of St. Martin's stand on the southern bank of the Swale, near a mile from the town. The corroding hand of time has been busy here, and, saving the situation, there is little to admire. # Richmond is a corporate town, and has been a borough ever since the erection of the castle. Indeed, a Norman castle was never without a borough, and the term burgess implies merely the inhabitants who erected their dwellings under the walls and protection of a castle. Alan III., duke of Bretagne, made a grant to the burgesses of Richmond of his borough and land of Fontenay, in fee-farm, on condition of paying him £29 a year, which charter was confirmed by Edward III. Queen Elizabeth afterwards incorporated the town, in the nineteenth year of her reign, and in the twenty-seventh of the same reign the burgesses were called upon to send members to parliament. By a charter granted by Charles II. on the 14th of March, 1668, the government of the town was placed in the hands of the mayor and aldermen; and the corporation now consists of a mayor, a recorder, twelve aldermen, a town-clerk, twenty-four common-council men, and two sergeants at mace. The mayor is chosen on the feast of St. Hilary, and is a justice of the peace during his mayoralty, and one year afterwards.” . * “The magistrates hold their meetings every Monday morning; and a court-leet twice in the year, Monastery of St. Mar- tin. Borough. namely, at Easter and Michaelmas. A court of record is also held here every fortnight throughout the year, before the mayor, recorder, or seneschal, and three aldermen, for all manner of actions, THE COUNTY OF YORK, 511 The right of electing members of parliament is vested in the owners of ancient burgages in the borough, who have also a right of pasture in a common field, called Whitecliffe pasture: the number of voters is about two hundred and seventy, of which Lord Dundas possesses a decided majority. : The town hall is a handsome and convenient structure, in which the public business of the town is transacted, and the general quarter sessions, both of the borough and riding, are held. It contains a large and elegant room, seventy feet long and twenty-four wide, in which balls and assemblies are held, and the other public gaieties of the town enjoyed. “The free grammar-school of Richmond,” says Mr. Carlisle, “is situate in the church-yard of the low church, (St. Mary's,) and was founded and endowed by the burgesses, on the 14th of March, 1568.” The guardians and governors of the school and its revenues are the mayor and aldermen of Richmond, and in them, as the successors of the bailiffs, the right of nominating the master is vested. The gross amount of the revenue, Mr. Carlisle states at £330 per annum, arising from land. All children natives in the borough, and the children of all burgesses and other persons inhabiting in the said borough, and exercising any trade, mystery, or manual occupation therein, are entitled to be taught free in the said school. The number of boys upon the foundation seldom exceeds twenty, and the average number of boarders and free scholars amounts to about fifty in the whole. This school, which ranks among the first free grammar-schools in England, has produced several eminent men. - - There are here several minor charities, which do not call for any particular enu- meration; the liberality of the town also supports several Sunday schools. Among the modern improvements in Richmond, may be mentioned the short rectilinear and level approach which has been made into the town, by which the precipitous descent from the north and steep ascent into the market are avoided; and coeval with this great public accommodation is the erection of a handsome bridge of three arches, over the Swale, in 1789, at the joint expense of the cor- poration and the North riding, - The town is abundantly supplied with water from Aislabeck spring, which is conveyed into reservoirs prepared for the purpose by the corporation, and thence by pipes to the different parts of the town. A gas-light company was founded in 1821. About half a mile from Richmond is a farm-house called St. Nicholas. It is an ancient edifice, having formed part of an hospital, dedicated to that saint. It having fallen very much into decay, both in buildings and revenues, the king, in suits, and demands, below £100. The revenue of the corporation amounts to about £800 a-year; and the two chamberlains, who collect the rents, are annually chosen by the mayor out of the common council.”—Baines. CHAP. III. Town hall. Grammar- school. Charities. Improve- In entS. St. Nicho- las. 512 - HISTORY OF B O O K VII. Arken- garthdale. and inhabited chiefly by miners.” 1448, granted it to William Ascough, justice of the common pleas, who repaired it, and added another chantry chaplain. It became vested in the crown on the disso- lution of monastic foundations, and is now the property of Lord Dundas. ARKENGARTHDALE, three miles from Reeth, is a considerable parish town, having fifteen hundred and twelve inhabitants. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, in the diocese of Chester. It is valued in the parliamentary return at £62: patron, J. Lowther, Esq. The present church was erected through the benefaction of the late George Brown, Esq., the foundation stone of which was laid September 24, 1817, and an inscription to that effect is upon the church. This parish, of small extent, is co-extensive with the township, BARNINGHAM is a parish town, six miles from Barnard-castle. In 1821 it con- tained a population of three hundred and eighty-four persons. The church is a rectory, dedicated to St. Michael, in the diocese of Chester. It is valued in the Liber regis at £19. 17s. 1d.: patron, the king. An endowed school here was founded by Acklam Milbank, Esq., whose descendants have a seat here. Hope (population forty-four), and Scargills (population one hundred and thirty- six), do not require further notice. - Bowes is a considerable parish town, on the high road from Brough to Barnard- castle. Population, one thousand and ninety-five. It is a place of great antiquity, being once a Roman station; at the north-west angle of which stand the remains of a castle, built out of the ruins of the Roman fortress, by Alan Niger, the first earl of that title, who placed therein William, his relation, with five hundred archers to defend it against some insurgents in Cumberland and Westmorland, confederated with the Scots. It is situate on the brink of a hill declining swiftly to the south- ward, at whose foot runs the river Greta. It is built in the form of a square. This castle appears to have belonged to John de Dreux, earl of Richmond, in the reign of Edward III., who granted it to Mary St. Paul, the countess of Pembroke, in the fifth of the same reign; from her it passed to John duke of Bedford, third son of Henry IV., who died possessed of it; it afterwards devolved on Henry VI. It is now, as well as the toll for cattle passing through the manor of Bowes, the property of Henry Percy Pulleine, Esq. - dº The benefice is a perpetual curacy, in the diocese of Chester, valued in the parliamentary return at £108.4s. 10d.: patron, C. Harrison, Esq., who has a neat seat here. The church, dedicated to St. Giles, is a low structure, with a bell turret Barning- ham. Church. Hope. Bowes. Church. * “The lead mines here appear to have been worked as early as the reign of King John. The annual produce of the mines, carried on under the firm of the Arkengarthdale and Darwent Mining Company, was some few years ago estimated at two thousand tons. It is a narrow dale on the north side of Swaledale.”—Langdale. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 513 at the west end. Here are interred the remains of Roger Wrightson and Martha Railton, both of Bowes. The mutual attachment of this humble pair, “who died. for the love of each other,” gave rise to the ballad of some celebrity, called “ Bowes, Tragedy, or a Pattern of True Love;” and Mallett's beautiful and pathetic poem of Edwin and Emma is founded on this story. A free grammar-school was founded and endowed by the late William Hutchinson, Esq., of Delro, Hertfordshire, about the year 1693. The endowment, according to Carlisle, is worth £339. 13s. per annum. There are six scholarships at Pembroke hall, Cambridge, for super- annuated scholars from Merchant Taylors’ school; and for one scholar, educated at the free-school at Bowes, each £40, per annum, and may be held seven years. At Spital house, in this parish, Ralph de Multon founded, before the year 1171, an hospital, called Rerecross hospital, which was given to the nunnery of Marrick, and continued parcel of their possessions till the dissolution. It was granted in the 7th of Edward VI. to William Buckton and Roger Marshall. Boldron (population one hundred and sixty-eight), and Gillmonby (population one hundred and seventy-five), are small townships in Bowes parish. Forcett, seven miles from Richmond, has eighty-six inhabitants. The church, a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, is valued in the parliamentary return at £38: patron, the vicar of Gilling. The hall is the seat of C. Mitchell, Esq. Barforth has one hundred and forty-one inhabitants. “Here,” says Cade, “was formerly a Roman station, near an ancient seat of the Pudsays, of which family, I find Ambrose Pudsay, sheriff of Yorkshire, anno 1762.” Carkin, (population twenty-four), and Ovington (population one hundred and sixty-six,) are townships in this parish. RoMALDKIRK is the most northern parish town in the county. It is romantically situate on the banks of the Tees, and the township contains three hundred and seventy-seven persons. - The benefice is a rectory, in the diocese of Chester. It is valued at £58. 14s.2d., and is in the patronage of Lord Strathmore. The church, dedicated to St. Romald, is a small but ancient edifice. In the north transept is the recumbent effigy of a cross-legged knight, in chain mail, his right hand on the hilt of his sword. This is supposed to be the tomb of Sir Fitzhugh, who died in 1304, most probably at Cotherstone castle. Cotherstone (population seven hundred and six), Holwick (population two hundred and one), Hunderthwaite” (population three hundred and thirteen), Lunedale + (population two hundred and sixty-five), and Mickleton (population * Ledgard hall is the seat of W. Hutchinson, Esq. + At Laithkirk, in this township, is a chapel to Romaldkirk, valued in the parliamentary return at £22. WOL. III. 6 P CHAP. III. Boldron. Gillmonby Forcett. Barforth. Carkin. Owington. Romald- kirk. Cother- Stone. Holwick. Hunderth- waite. Lunedale. Mickleton, 514 HISTORY OF B O O. K. VII. Lartington Melsonby. Rokeby. Hall. Mortham to Wer. Eggleston abbey. three hundred and fifty-six), are considerable townships in this parish; the inha- bitants are entirely miners or agriculturists. i Lartington contains two hundred and forty-three inhabitants. Here was formerly a chantry of our Lady, probably founded by the Fitzhughs, from whom the Maire family can trace their descent, although this manor appears, from Whitaker's York- shire, to have come to them by purchase. The chantry was valued (in the 37th of Henry VIII.) at £5.6s. 8d. per annum. - . . . • The hall is the seat of Mrs. S. Maire. - MELsonby, a parish town, six miles from Richmond, contains four hundred and forty inhabitants. . . . . - - The church, a rectory, in the diocese of Chester, is valued in the Liber regis at £10, 2s. 11d.: patron, University college, Oxford. . - RoKEBY is a highly romantic parish, three miles from Barnardcastle; population, (including Egglestone abbey,) two hundred and twenty-two persons. Several Roman altars and inscriptions have been found in this parish, and are engraved in Dr. Whitaker's splendid history of Richmondshire. The benefice is a rectory, dedicated to St. Mary, in the diocese of Chester. It is valued in the parliamentary return at £100: patron, the king. The church, a modern edifice, has more the appearance of a domestic chapel than a parochial church. The hall, a large edifice, is the seat of J. B. Morritt, Esq. Mortham tower, in this parish, is an embattled house, probably built about the reign of Henry VII. ; a true border-mansion, with all the peculiar features of that era; a thorough lobby, kitchens, butteries, a hall on the right up to the roof, and a handsome tower beyond the hall. At one end is a barnekyn enclosure, for the nightly protection of the cattle from depredators, strongly walled about. To a field near it has been removed the immense tomb-stone of Greta, or Tees marble, men- -- tioned by Leland, and removed within memory from Eggleston abbey.* Eggleston abbey (which Dugdale and Leland by mistake call a priory) is situate upon the high cliffs of the Tees, almost opposite to Barnardcastle. It was founded by Ralph de Multon, in the latter end of the reign of Henry II. or beginning of that of Richard I. for white canons, and dedicated to St. Mary and St. John Baptist. It had revenues to the yearly value of £65. 5s. 6d. in the whole, and £37.7s. 2d. clear, and was granted in the 2d of Edward VI. to Robert Shelley, The ruins of the church are in the form of a cross, and are considerable; a part of the monastic building is entire, and now occupied as a farm-house. It is now destitute of monuments, but in the time of Leland, stood “too fair tumbes of * “This place and Rokeby were, in very distant ages, in the possession of the Rokebys; Robert de Rokeby lived in the time of the conqueror. By the arms and date on Mortham tower, it appears that it was built in 1166 by the Rokebys.”—Hutehinson's Tour. - • ſº **{{ - - ** gray marble: in the greater was buried, as I learned, one Syre Rafe Bowes; and in the lesser, one of the Rokebys.” d GRINTON is one mile from Reeth, and contains six hundred, and eighty-nine inhabitants. . r - - - The church, a vicarage, in the diocese of Chester, is dedicated to St. Andrew, and is valued in the parliamentary return at £140: patron, the king. . At the source of a brook that I’UlſlS past it in its road to the river is a curious cavern, called Crack. pot, the entrance of which is extremely narrow. A few yards from the entrance is a spacious cavern; proceeding a few paces further, it descends rather abruptly; at the bottom is a deep water issuing out of the rock below, near which there is a curious pillar of solid stone. The narrow passages beyond it are not safe to traverse. - ... - - . . . . Reeth is a small market” town, with one thousand four hundred and sixty inhabitants. It is situate in Swaledale, and is ten miles distant from Rich- mond. . " . . . . . . . . . . . At Fremington, in this township, is a school founded, in 1643, by Mr. Alderman James Hutchinson, of York, and endowed by him with a salary of about £70 per annum, arising from lands at Gate Fulford and Fremington, to be kept in repair by the master. . - . . . Muker is a considerable chapelry, having one thousand four hundred and twenty- five inhabitants. - - - The extensive township of Melbecks has one thousand seven hundred and twenty- six inhabitants. It is a mountainous district, on the north banks of the Swale. MARRICK, or Marwick, is a parish town, eight miles from Richmond. Population, six hundred and twenty-one. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, in the diocese of Chester, dedicated to St. Andrew, and valued in the parliamentary return at f44.15s. : patron, W. Powlet, Esq. - The church is the nave of a chapel that belonged to a nunnery of Benedictines, founded here in the latter end of the reign of King Stephen, by Roger de Aske. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and had the king's license to continue after the dissolution of lesser houses. It was surrendered by Christabella Cowper, the prioress, and sixteen nuns, November 17th, 1540, the thirty-first of Henry VIII., when the yearly revenues were rated by Speed at £64. 8s. 9d. The site was granted to John Uvedale. The hospital on Stanemore belonged to these nuns. Marrick park is the seat of J. Morley, Esq. . . . . . . . . MARSKE, adjoining the last parish, has two hundred and ninety inhabitants. The church is a rectory, dedicated to St. Cuthbert; it is in the diocese of * “The market is held on Friday, and there are fairs on the Fridays before Good-Friday, Old May-day, Old Midsummer-day, St. Bartholomew, Old Martimas-day, and St. Thomas’s-day.”—Langdale. THE county of York. 515 . - : `... . . 4s. 5 CHAP. III. Grinton. Reeth. School. Muker. Melbecks, Marrick. Church. Marske. Church. 2 516 * HISTORY OF B O O K VII. Easby. Hospital. Abbey. ' Chester, and is valued in the Liber regis at £12.6s, 5%d.: patron, J. Hutton, Esq.” - The patronage of this church has been in the family of Hutton ever since 1598, when Matthew Hutton, archbishop of York, purchased this estate. In the grounds of J. Hutton, Esq., is an obelisk, which covers the body of Matthew Hutton, formerly a captain in the army, who, dying in the year 1813, at Macclesfield, re- quested his executors to bury him in this place, where, when a boy, he had often sat, enchanted with the beauties of this mountainous country. Marske hall is the seat of J. Hutton, Esq., and Clints, the ancient mansion of T. Evrington, Esq. The time when this latter edifice was built we are not acquainted with, but from its appearance it is doubtless of great antiquity. It formerly belonged to the family of Willans, from whom it passed to the Bathursts, and from them to the late Sir Charles Turner, who sold it to Miles Stapleton, Esq., of whom the present proprietor purchased it. * EASBY, one mile from Richmond, has one hundred and five inhabitants. The church, a small plain edifice, is a vicarage, valued in the Liber regis at £2 13s. 4d. : patron, the king, t Here is an hospital for four poor women, founded in 1732, by William Smith, then rector of Melsonby. A very singular discovery was made in this church about 1790, of an epitaph “pon the death of Richard Swale, gentleman,” who died in 1538. It is written in four different languages, Hebrew, Greek, Latin, and English: the circumstances attending the discovery are not less curious than the thing itself+ Near to the parish church are the venerable remains of the abbey of St. Agatha, situate on the northern banks of the river Swale. It was founded about the year 1152, for Premonstratensian canons, by Roaldus, constable of Richmond castle, and dedicated to St. Agatha, to which Roger de Mowbray, Alan Bygot, and others were benefactors. Richard le Scrope, of Bolton, in the time of Richard II., gave the abbot and convent £150 per annum for the maintenance of ten canons, over and above the number in the monastery, and two secular chaplains; but Whitaker says he only meditated a donation, for which he obtained a license that year. It was valued at the dissolution at £111. 17s. 11d. . - s The last abbot was Robert Bampton, who surrendered in 1535. The site, with the possession of the monastery, was granted for thirty years to Lord Scrope, of Bolton, at an annual rent of £283. 13s. 11d. ; in 1557, it was sold by Philip and Mary to Ralph Gower, of Richmond, for £660. 3s. 4d., the tenure in chief for knight's service ; he dying, bequeathed the same to his son John, who, being attainted of high treason, had all his estates confiscated to the crown. In the * At Marske was born, January 5, 1692, Dr. Matthew Hutton, archbishop of Canterbury. + Wide Gent, Mag. 1799. - - º º º º! § -- } t \ - | |- |-ſīvnösVIOLM （TVN） · № （NOINTITI， I，I CIA HSI-Ina NOCINO'I ！№ №ſsºſ · ·T·m：Tºrnòs yoi：TJA， ‹› （NUOLNIH （I, I，I CITHSITIOELOEI NUOGINOT |- ºsv.， n， trato， ¿o ， IS ZIEL ºººſ[º][NȚIEI GOEISTŲ， |-！Tºta CI，TOOLLIH：： - ± ± Sºlº ſº toº º º . º - * * H | º % 3 a THE COUNTY OF YORK. 517 reign of Elizabeth and James I. it was again in possession of the Scropes, of Bolton, and at length was purchased by Robert Jaques, Esq., for £45,000.* Aske is a small township, having only one hundred and nine inhabitants. The hall is the seat of Lord Dundas; it is an extensive but heavy building, in the centre of a noble park. There are several fine paintings in this mansion. Skeeby-f (population one hundred and sixty-three), and Brompton (population three hundred and eighty-eight), are small townships in this parish. - STARTForth is a parish town, on the south bank of the Tees, opposite to Barnardcastle. In 1821; this parish and township contained four hundred and sixty inhabitants. The church is a vicarage, in the diocese of Chester, dedicated to the Holy Trinity. It is valued in the parliamentary return at £128. 19s. 8d.: patron, Sir John Ramsden, Bart. The bridge here is an ancient structure, and the view of Barnardcastle from this side of the river is highly imposing. Here is the seat of T. H. Hill, Esq. MANFIELD, a parish town, five miles from Darlington, contains four hundred and forty inhabitants. - The church, a vicarage, dedicated to All Saints, is in the diocese of Chester, and is valued in the Liber regis at £6. 1s. 3d. : patron, the king. At Cliffe (population fifty-three) is the seat of H. Witham, Esq. - BRIGNALL is a parish town, four miles from Barnardcastle. Population, two hundred and sixteen. - The church, (situate in a romantic vale on the banks of the Greta,) a vicarage dedicated to St. Mary, is valued in the Liber regis at £8.12s. 6d. : patron, the king. At Gretabridge, in this parish, are vestiges of a Roman camp, and old coins are frequently found here. Not long since, a Roman altar was discovered, having a Roman inscription upon it. - HUTTON LONG WILLIERs, or Magna, is nine miles from Richmond. Population (including Lane head), two hundred and forty-eight. The church is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £36: patron, the vicar of Gilling. West Layton (population sixty-nine) is a small township. Here is the hall, the seat of Lord Rokeby. * There is an excellent plan of this abbey in Whitaker’s Richmondshire, vol. i. p. 112. + “Here St. Osyth had a chantry, and from her is the name of the place derived, though strangely corrupted.”—Whitaker. - - - † Langdale describes this place as a chapelry to the parish of Gilling, but the population returns state it to be a parish. The latter authority has been adopted through this work; but it is to be regretted, that in a national work so many errors should occur, as the author has detected in the census of 1821. WOL. III. 6 Q CHAP. III. Aske. Skeeby. Brompton. Startforth. Manfield. Cliffe. Brignall. Hutton Long Vil- liers. West Layton. 518 HISTORY OF B O O K VII. Stanwick St. John. Aldbo- rough. Caldwell. East Layton. n Church. School. Eppleby. North Cowton. South Cowton. Eryholme. STANwick St. John is a very small parish town, eight miles north of Richmond. Population fifty-nine. N The church, a vicarage, in the diocese of Chester, is valued in the return to parliament at £108: patron, J. Wharton, Esq. - Here are the remains of some very extensive intrenchments called the Jack dike arches, the ramparts of which, in the field adjoining the church, cannot be less than five feet high. At no great distance from the parish church is Stanwick hall, for many generations the residence of the Smithsons, now of Lord Prudhoe; Sir Hugh Smithson, the last of that name, having married the heiress of the house of Northumberland, by which marriage this estate came into that family. Aldborough has five hundred and forty-four, Caldwell one hundred and eighty- eight, and East Layton one hundred and thirty-seven inhabitants. The parish town of GILLING,” three miles from Richmond, has nine hundred and twenty-one inhabitants. * - The benefice, a vicarage, in the diocese of Chester, is valued in the Liber regis at £23. 11s. 54d.: patron, J. Wharton, Esq. The church, an ancient edifice, is dedicated to St. Agatha. The hall is the seat of the Rev. W. Wharton. Here is a school founded in 1670, by Sir Thomas Wharton, of Edlington, K. B. and endowed with a small estate in Cleveland, for the instruction of a certain number of poor scholars. At this school' the Rev. W. Beloe received the groundwork of his classical education, under the Rev. Matthew Raine, father of the late Dr. Raine, of the Charter-house, and Jonathan Raine, Esq., an eminent barrister. - - Eppleby (population one hundred and fifty-seven), North Cowton (population two hundred and seventy), South Cowton’t (population one hundred and forty- eight), and Eryholmet (population one hundred and seventy-seven), are small villages. - - Kirkby RAVENsworth is a very small parish Richmond. Population, three hundred and seventeen. The benefice, a perpetual curacy, in the diocese of Chester, was formerly a town, four miles nearly north from Kirkby Ravens- worth. Church. * It was here that Oswyn, king of Deira, was murdered by Oswin of Bernicia, A.D. 651. To atone for this foul murder, Eanfleda, wife of Oswin, who was also related to Oswyn, founded the monastery of Ingethlingum, so called by Bede, not a vestige of which is now to be seen. Gilling is remarkable also as having been the residence of the Saxon Edwin and his progenitors. The castle, the seat of the Saxon earls, was situate upon a hill, nearly a mile to the south of the village, the vestiges of which were removed some time since. - - - + There is a chapel here, valued in the parliamentary return at £33. Pepper hall, the elegant seat of J. Arden, Esq. is a spacious mansion, consisting of a centre and two wings, and was built in the early part of the last century. - # The chapel here is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £63. 10s. 4d. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 519 rectory, valued in the king's books at £25. 5s. 23d. It was one of the rectories annexed to the see of Chester in 1541, to which it still belongs. The church is an ancient structure, built in 1397. . The castle, which has long been in ruins, Camden says, “belonged to the barons called Fitzhugh, (descended from those Saxons who were lords of this place before the conquest,) who flourished till the time of Henry VII.” In Leland's time it belonged to Lord Parre, who says, “The castle, excepting two or three towers, and a faire stable, with a conduct coming to the haulle side, hath no thing memo- rable. It is three miles by north-west from Richmond, and thereby is a pratty village.” This castle and estate were in the hands of the crown from 1571 to 1629, when, by letters-patent, they were granted to Edward Ditchfield, and other trustees. In 1677, they were in the possession of Sir Thomas Wharton, by whose daughter they passed to Robert Byerley, Esq. Humphrey Fletcher, of Minskip, the present owner. Dalton (population two hundred and sixty-five), Gailes (population two hundred and eighteen), Kirby-on-the-Hill (population one hundred and sixty-one), New Forest (population seventy-three), Newsham (population five hundred and eleven), and Whashton (population one hundred and forty), are townships in this parish, requiring no further notice. WycLIFFE, five miles from Barnardcastle, has one hundred and fifty-two inha- bitants. The church, a rectory, in the diocese of Chester, is valued in the Liber regis at £14. 12s. 1d. : patron, Sir Thomas Constable. In the parsonage house is a fine portrait of Wycliffe, by Sir Antonio More, given by Dr. Zouch, when rector of this parish, to his successors, the rectors of Wycliffe, who are requested to preserve it as an heir-loom to the rectory house. Wycliffe hall is the seat of Mrs. Constable. At Spresswell,” in this parish, was born, in 1324, “the morning star” of the reformation, John Wycliffe, the celebrated divine, and the first champion of pro- testantism. We first meet with him as a commoner of Queen’s college, Oxford, and soon find him opposing the encroachments of the mendicant orders; at length he attacked the tenets of the Church of Rome, and had the good fortune to die in peace in 1384, leaving his bones for his adversaries to wreak their vengeance on twenty- eight years after, by taking them up and burning them to ashes."f The east division of this wapentake contains the parishes of They were sold a few years since to Mr. CHAP. III. Castle. * Probably Hipswell, as there is now no such place in this parish or neighbourhood. + “The enemies of Wicklif thought, that by burning his bones and scattering them in the Swift, they should destroy his name and doctrine. But no The Swift carried them into the Avon, the Avon into the Severn, the Severn into the ocean, and the ocean round the world.”—Fuller. For an highly interesting memoir of this illustrious divine, see Livesey’s Illustres Eboracenses, vol. i. p. 44. Dalton. Gailes. Kirkby- on-the- Hill. New Forest. Newsham. Whashton. Wycliffe. s presswell East Di- vision. 520 2 HISTORY OF B () () K. VII. Ainderby Steeple. Morton. Thirntoft. Warlaby. Barton. Newton Murrell. Bolton- upon- Swale. Church. Cleasby. East Cowton. AINDER BY STEEPLE, croft, GREAT SMEATON, BARTON, - - DANBY WISKE, KIRBY WISKE, BO LTON-UPON-SWALE, EAST cowton, MIDDLEToN TYAs. CLEASBY, GREAT LANGTON, AINDERBY STEEPLE is a parish town, three miles from Northallerton. Population, two hundred and sixty-six. - - The church, a vicarage, in the diocese of Chester, is dedicated to St. Helen. It is valued in the parliamentary return at £142. 16s. 8d., and is in the gift of the king. * .. - Morton (population two hundred and forty), Thirnioft (population one hundred and sixty-five), and Warlaby (population ninety-seven), are small townships in this parish. - BARTON has four hundred and thirty-six inhabitants.” In this village are two chapels, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, and valued in the parliamentary return at £65. Newton Murrell contains thirty-one persons. - Bolton-UPON-SwALE+ is a small parish town, three miles from Catterick, with one hundred inhabitants. - The church, a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Mary, is in the diocese of Chester. It is of the clear yearly value of £17. 5s. : patron, the vicar of Catterick. Here is a handsome pyramid, with the following inscription to Henry Jenkins, the oldest Englishman on record. . w “Blush not, marble, to rescue from oblivion the memory of Henry Jenkins, a person obscure in birth, but of a life truly memorable, for he was enriched with the goods of nature, if not of fortune, and happy in the duration, if not variety of his enjoyments; and though the partial world despised and disregarded his low and humble state, the equal eye of Providence beheld and blessed it with a patriarch's health and length of days, to teach mistaken man those blessings are entailed in temperance, a life of labour, and a mind at ease. He lived to the amazing age of one hundred and sixty-nine, was interred here, December 6, 1670, and had this justice done to his memory in 1743.” • * CLEASBY is an inconsiderable parish town, five miles from Darlington. Popula- tion, one hundred and forty-seven. The church is a perpetual curacy, in the diocese of Chester: patron, the dean and chapter of Ripon. - In this obscure village was born, in 1650, Dr. John Robinson, bishop of London, a distinguished prelate and statesman, who died at Fulham, in 1723. At this place of his nativity he built the chapel, parsonage-house, and added a school. The latter is endowed with sixteen acres of land, valued at £20 or £22 per annum, for teaching six boys. EAST Cowton, eight miles from Northallerton, contains three hundred and thirty-eight inhabitants. * Langdale describes Barton as a chapelry to Stanwick. + Langdale describes this town as a chapelry to Catterick. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 521 The church, a vicarage, in the diocese of Chester, is valued in the Liber regis at £4.6s. 10%d.: patrons, the trustees of St. John’s hospital, Kirkby Ravensworth. CROFT is a parish town, on the banks of the Tees, four miles from Darlington. Population, three hundred and sixty-seven. The church, a rectory, dedicated to St. Peter, is valued in the king's books at £21. 8s. 4d. It is in the diocese of Chester, and the patronage of the king. In the church is an altar-tomb to one of the Milbanks, of Halnaby, and another to the Clavereux, ancestors of the Chaytors. About half a mile west of the village is a mineral spring, to which, during the summer months, many people resort. Here is a good inn and several new lodging-houses, built for the accommodation of visitors. A treatise on these waters was published by Dr. Cayley, a few years ago.” Croft hall is the elegant seat of Sir H. W. Chaytor, Bart. - Dalton (population one hundred and sixty-seven), and Stapleton (population one hundred and thirteen), are small townships in this parish. - DANBy WiskE, four miles from Northallerton, contains three hundred and twenty-eight persons. The church, a rectory, in the diocese of Chester, is valued in the Liber regis at £9. 3s. 113d. : patron, Rev. W. Cust. Yafforth (population one hundred and forty-nine) has a small chapel of ease. MIDDLETON TYAs is a parish town, six miles from Richmond, with five hundred and sixty-nine inhabitants. This parish was once famous for its copper mines, but they have not been worked for nearly half a century. The church is a vicarage, in the diocese of Chester, valued in the Liber regis at £15. 10s. : patron, the king. Middleton lodge is the seat of G. Hartley, Esq. Moulton contains two hundred and thirty-six inhabitants. - KIRBy WisKE is a parish town, four miles from Thirsk, containing one hundred and ninety-seven inhabitants. The church, a rectory, in the diocese of Chester, is valued in the Liber regis at £27. 16s. 53d. : patron, the duke of Northumberland. Near this village are traces of an ancient encampment and a tumulus, in which human bones have been found.t Maunby (population two hundred and six), Newby Wiske (population two hundred * “In this village was horn, about the year 1635, Dr. Thomas Burnett, a most ingenious and learned writer, the author of the Theory of the Earth, &c. In 1685, he was appointed master of the Charterhouse; in which situation he opposed the attempt of James II. to place a papist on the foun- dation of that house. After the revolution he was made chaplain to the king and clerk of the closet, and died in 1715.”—Chalmers. t + This place is famous for being the birth-place of the celebrated Roger Ascham, third son of John Ascham, instructor in Latin and Greek to Prince Edward and Princess Elizabeth ; Latin Secretary to Queen Mary, and afterwards Latin Secretary and private tutor to Queen Elizabeth, in the Greek tongue. He died in 1571. VOL. III, 6 R CHAP. III. Croft. Church. Hall. Dalton. Stapleton. Danby Wiske. Yafforth. Middleton Tyas. Moulton. Kirby Wiske. Maunby. Newby Wiske. 522 HISTORY OF B O O K VII. Newsham- with- Brecken- brough. Great Langton. Little Langton. Great Smeaton. Hornby. Langbargh West Division. Yarm. and sixty-five), and Newsham-with-Breckenbrough (population one hundred and seventy-three), are townships in this parish. Breckenbrough hall is the seat of J. L. Armitage, Esq. GREAT LANGTON, six miles from Northallerton, is a small parish town, having only one hundred and sixteen inhabitants. The church, a rectory, in the diocese of Chester, is valued in the Liber regis at £6. 10s. 10d. : patron, the duke of Leeds. At Little Langton (population eighty-six) is the seat of F. Redfearn, Esq. GREAT SMEATON is a parish town, seven miles from Northallerton. Population, two hundred and fifty. The church, a rectory, in the diocese of Chester, is valued in the Liber regis at #13. 13s. 4d.: patron, Lord Middleton. Hornby contains two hundred and thirty-eight inhabitants. The liberty of Langbargh (of which the Rev. George Marwood is lord and chief bailiff.) is divided into two portions: the west division contains the parishes of ACKLAM, CARLETON, KIRKBY CLEVELAND, NEWTon, APPLETON UPON CRATHORNE, KIRE LEVINGTON, RUD BY IN CLEVELAND, WISKE, FACEBY, KILDAL E, SEAMER, ARN CLIFFE INGLEBY, HILTON, MIDDI.ESBOROUGH, STAINTON, AYTON, INGLEBY GREEN HOW, MORTON, STOKESLEY wholTon, and YARM. YARM is a market” and parish town, situate on the Tees, which here winds almost round it. In 1821 it contained three hundred and seventy-three houses, and one thousand five hundred and four inhabitants. It is four miles distant from Stockton, and two hundred and forty-two from London. The town is situate on a low peninsula, f and is nearly surrounded by the river * The market is on Thursday, and there are fairs on the Thursday before April 6, Holy-Thursday, August 2, and October 19 and 20. - + “Owing to the peninsular situation of this town, and to its slight elevation above the bed of the river, it is very liable to floods, the most memorable of which are those of the 17th of February, 1753, and the 16th and 17th of November, 1771. The inundation of 1753 was occasioned by a sudden thaw on the western hills, which laid the town seven feet deep under water in the higher parts, and which swept away great quantities of furniture, wares, and live stock without occasioning the loss of any lives. The flood of 1771, at the time of the eruption of the Solway Moss in Cumberland, was more fatal and tremendous; the water in some parts of the town rose upwards of twenty feet in perpendicular height, and many of the inhabitants were taken in boats from the roofs of their houses; a great quantity of property and some lives were lost, and many more must have perished inevitably had they not been preserved by the active humanity and timely assistance of the people of Stockton and the neighbouring villages. Similar, though less awful visitations have taken place since, and in the flood of the 3d of February, 1822, the water was seven feet deep in the main street of the town. To abate the violence of these frequent inundations, the bridge of five arches, built by Walter Skirlaw, bishop of Durham, in the year 1400, has undergone several important alterations; the arch to the north has been made more capacious, and built in a semi- circular form, and the bridge itself has been widened and rendered a substantial structure. In 1805, an elegant iron bridge, consisting of one arch one hundred and eighty feet span, cast by Messrs. Walker and THE COUNTY OF YORK. 523 Tees, which winds round in the form of a horseshoe, and is here navigable for vessels of sixty tons burden. The main street runs north and south, and is very spacious. There is not much trade, and no manufacture of any importance. The commerce in the place consists principally in provisions, which are shipped hence to London. A great deal of salmon is caught in the Tees, and this place partakes with Stockton in the advantage of the fishery. - The new iron railway from Stockton to Darlington, and from thence to the collieries near Auckland, passes within a mile of Yarm, and a branch is completed from the main line to bring coals, lime, &c., down nearly to the bridge, which promises great advantages. The benefice, a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, is valued in the Liber regis at £38. 3s.6d. : patron, the archbishop of York. - The church stands at the west side of the town, and was rebuilt in 1730. The exterior is plain and rather homely, but the interior is much admired for its neatness and good order; it is, however, chiefly remarkable for a window of painted glass, beautifully executed by Peckett, in which is exhibited a full-length figure of Moses delivering the law on Mount Sinai. The Methodists, the Independents, the Catholics, and the Primitive Methodists have each a chapel here, and the society of Friends have their meeting-house. There is here an ancient free grammar-school, founded and endowed in the time of Queen Elizabeth, by Thomas Conyers, of Eggliscliffe, in the county of Durham, and the benefits of which have been very essentially extended by the liberality of the late William Chaloner, Esq. A national school, capable of containing one hundred and sixty boys and girls, was built in 1816, by subscription. It appears from Tanner's Notitia, that there was here an ancient hospital, dedi- cated to St. Nicholas, founded by some of the family of Brus, before the year 1185, which continued till the dissolution; but not a vestige of it now remains, and even the site of it is unknown. There was also a house of Blackfriars, said to have been founded by Peter de Brus the second, who died in 1240, but it has disappeared, and a commodious mansion has been erected upon the spot, called the Friarage, now the seat of Thomas Meynell, Esq., the grounds of which are delightful, and extend about a mile along the banks of the Tees. ACKLAM is a small parish town, three miles from Hockton. Population, one hundred and five. The church is a perpetual curacy, in the gift of the archbishop of York. It is valued in the return to parliament at £120. The hall is the seat of T. Hustler, Esq. Co. of Masbrough, near Rotherham, was erected here; but owing to some defect in the abutments, it unfortunately fell down about midnight on the 12th of January, 1806, when it was just on the point of being opened. This bridge is stated by Mr. Graves, in his History of Cleveland, to have cost £8000, and the weight of iron contained in it was two hundred and fifty tons.”—Baines’ York. ſº- CHAP. III. Church. Grammar- school. Hospital. Acklam. 524 HISTORY OF B O O K VII. Chapel. Marton. Stainton. Hemling- ton. Ingleby Barwick. Maltby. Thornaby. Hilton. Seamer. Middlesburgh is a small chapelry, valued in the parliamentary return at £75, 6s. The chapel has long been in ruins, the site of which, together with the chapel-yard uninclosed, is occasionally used as a burial ground. - Here was a cell subordinate to the abbey of Whitby, and, by the valuation taken in the 26th year of Henry VIII., its revenues amounted to £21.3s. 8d. per annum; its site was granted, 1546, to Thomas Reeve, Esq. MARTON,” adjoining the last parish, contains three hundred and ninety-seven inhabitants. . The church, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, is valued in the parliamentary return at £120: patron, the archbishop of York. The lodge is the seat of B. Rudd, Esq. STAINTON, four miles from Stokesley, contains three hundred and fifty-six inhabi- tants. The church, a vicarage, dedicated to St. Peter, is valued in the Liber regis at £5. 14s. 2d.; patron, the archbishop of York. Hemlington (population seventy-two), Ingleby Barwick (population one hundred and seventy-five), Maltby (population one hundred and sixty-eight), and Thornaby (population one hundred and ninety-seven), are townships in this parish. HILTON is a small parish town, four miles from Yarm. and thirty-five. The church, a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £47, is in the gift of Lord Cavendish. SEAMER, two miles from Stokesley, contains two hundred and twenty-six inhabi- The church, a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Martin, is valued in the parliamentary return at £54.6s. 8d.: patron, R. Greenhill, Esq. Population, one hundred tants. RUDBY, in Cleveland, is a very small parish town, having only seventy-six inhabi- tants. It is four miles distant from Stokesley. The church, a vicarage, dedicated Rudby. * “Marton is honoured as the birth-place of that celebrated navigator, Captain James Cook; who was born on November 3, 1728. His parents being labourers, he received the rudiments of his education from a schoolmistress of the village. His father being afterwards in the service of Thomas Scottowe, Esq., young Cook, at eight years of age, was sent to a day-school at Ayton, where he was educated at Mr. Scottowe’s expense. At the age of thirteen, he was bound apprentice to Mr. Sanderson, a shopkeeper at Staithes; but from some disagreement with his master, the contract was dissolved, and he bound himself apprentice for seven years to Messrs, Walker, of Whitby, owners of ships in the coal trade. After serving his apprenticeship faithfully, he, in 1755, volunteered on board the Eagle, a sixty gun ship, com- manded by Sir Hugh Palliser, who soon marked him as an able and diligent seaman. In 1759, he obtained a warrant as master of the Mercury, in which ship he was at the taking of Quebec. It was here, on the recommendation of Sir Hugh Palliser, that he was employed in the difficult and dangerous service of taking soundings in the river St. Lawrence, which he did in the night in front of the French fortified camp. After making innumerable discoveries in almost every part of the globe, and having enlarged the bounds of human knowledge in various ways, he fell by the hands of the savage people of Owhyhee, one of the Sandwich islands, February 14, 1779. Actuated by that ardent zeal which knows no difficulty, and that dauntless spirit which fears no danger, he went on shore for the purpose of rescuing some of his crew from the hazards of an unfortunate quarrel with the Indians, when he was shockingly murdered by some of the barbarians. Captain Cook left a widow and family; on the former a pension of £200 a year was settled by the king, and £25 on each of the children.”—Gorton's Biog. Dict. Langdale. THE COUNTY OF YORK. 525 to All Saints, is valued in the return to parliament at £88: patron, the king. 2. Adjoining the church-yard is a school-house, founded and endowed, about the year 1740, by Charles Bathurst, Esq., of Skutterskelf, for the purpose of educating the children of the poor of the parish. The master's salary arises out of a rent charge of £10, and the interest of £100, left by the founder. - Middleton-upon-Leven is a small chapelry (population one hundred and eleven), four miles from Yarm. It is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, and valued in the parliamentary return at £43. 13s.6d. : patroness, Lady Amherst. East Rounton (population one hundred and thirty-five) is a chapelry, in the same patronage. It is valued at £37. 7s.6d. Hutton (population nine hundred and nineteen), Skutterskelf (population thirty- two), and Sexhow (population thirty-eight), are the remaining townships in this parish. CRATHORNE, four miles from Yarm, has three hundred and thirty inhabitants. The church, a rectory, dedicated to All Saints, and valued in the Liber regis at £10. 11s. 10}d, is in the patronage of G. Wentworth, Esq. Here is the seat of George Crathorne, Esq., lineally descended from a family that have been resident here ever since the conquest, and bore as a crest, a crake or crow. Here is a meat Roman Catholic chapel. RIRK LEVINGTON, two miles from Yarm, has two hundred and eighty-two inhabitants. The church, a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Martin, is valued in the return to parliament at £30: patron, the archbishop of York. Castle Levington * (population forty-four), Pickton (population ninety-four), and Low Worsall (population two hundred and seventeen), are townships in this parish. APPLETON-ON-WISKE, seven miles from Yarm, has four hundred and ninety-two inhabitants. Here is a chapel under Smeaton. INGLEBY ARNECLIFFE, eight miles from Northallerton, is a parish town, with three hundred and thirty-one inhabitants. The church, a perpetual curacy, valued in the Liber regis at £39, is in the patronage of B. Abbs, Esq. The hall is the seat of Mrs. Mauleverer. - AYTON, two miles from Stokesley, is a large parish town, having one thousand and twenty-three inhabitants. w The church is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to All Saints, and is valued in the parliamentary return at £70. 10s. 10d.: patron, the Rev. W. Marwood. * “ Here is a large steep hill, called the Castle hill, from which Castle Levington probably derives its name. It is situate on the banks of the Leven, is of a circular form, characteristic of a Danish fortification, but no vestiges of any building have ever been discovered.”-Graves. WOL. III. 6 S CHAP. III. School. Middleton- upon- Leven. East Rounton, Hutton. Skutter- skelf. Sexhow. Crathorne. Kirk Le- vington. Castle Le- wington. Pickton. Low Worsall. Appleton- on-Wiske. Ingleby Arnecliffe. Ayton. 526 - HISTORY OF Here is a school-house, which, from an inscription over the door, appears to have been first built by Michael Postgate, yeoman, in the year 1704, and re- built in 1785, with a small endowment for the instruction of eight poor children within the township. - Nunthorpe is a chapelry, with one hundred and ten inhabitants. The chapel, a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Mary, and valued in the Liber regis at £36, is in the patronage of T. Simpson, Esq. - A small Cistercian nunnery was founded here in the latter part of the reign of Henry II., by Ralph de Neville, but afterwards removed to Basedale. After the suppression of the priory, in the twenty-seventh of Henry VIII., the premises, called Nunhouse grange, were leased by the king to William Snowball, for twenty-one years, at the yearly rental of £6. 13s. 4d., and afterwards granted by King Henry VIII. in estate tail, to King's college, Cambridge.* Little Ayton contains sixty-eight inhabitants. CARLTON, a parish town, three miles from Stokesley, has two hundred and sixty inhabitants. The church, a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £52. 15s., is in the patronage of J. Reeves, Esq., who has a handsome mansion here. KILDALE, six miles from Stokesley, has two hundred and nine inhabitants. The church, a rectory, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, is valued in the parliamentary return at £150: patron, Robert Bell Livesey, Esq., who has a seat here. KIRKBY, two miles from Stokesley, has one hundred and sixty-eight inhabitants. The church (a mean edifice rebuilt in 1816) is a rectory, dedicated to St. Augustine, and valued in the Liber regis at £21. 8s. 63d. : patron, the archbishop of York. Not far from the church there is a free-school, with a house and garden for the use of the master, built in 1683, by Henry Edmunds, Esq., who endowed the same with lands here, that produced, a few years ago, an income of about £40. Great and Little Broughton contain five hundred and seventeen inhabitants. WHORLTON, on the high road from Stokesley to Thirsk, contains five hundred and eighty-three persons. - The church, a perpetual curacy, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, is valued at £13. 10s. : it is in the patronage of the marquis of Aylesbury. Here are the ruins of a castle, which formerly belonged to the Barons Meynill. Leland says, “this was the principal house of the Lord Menell, which sence came to master Strangways in particion.” Within the church, on the north side of the chancel, in an arch of the wall, is an ancient monument of Sir Nicholas de Meynill. At what time this castle was rendered untenable is not known; in Camden’s time it was old and ruinous. Nicholas de Meynill held the manor of Whorlton, &c., B O O K. VII. School. Nunthorpe Nunnery. I.ittle Ayton. Carlton. Kildale. Kirkby. Free- school. Great and Little Broughton Whorlton. Castle. * Burton's Monasticon. THE CO UNTY OF YORK. 527 of the archbishop of Canterbury, by serving the said archbishop, on the day of his CHAP. III. consecration, with the cup out of which the archbishop was to drink that day. It appears to have come first into the family of Bruce, ancestors of the marquis of Aylesbury, in the reign of Charles I. Potto has two hundred and seven inhabitants. - FACEBY, four miles from Stokesley, has one hundred and seventy-eight inhabitants. The church, a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, is valued in the parliamentary return at £36. 16s. : patron, J. Reeves, Esq. Faceby lodge is the seat of J. Favell, Esq. - INGLEBY-juxtA-GREENHow is a parish town, eight miles from Guisborough. Population, one hundred and fifty-eight. The church, a perpetual curacy, dedi- cated to St. Andrew, is valued in the parliamentary return at £68. 19s. 4d. : patron, Sir William Foulis, Bart. - Ingleby manor is the seat of the above gentleman. Battersby (population eighty-seven), and Greenhow (population one hundred and two), are small townships in this parish. - NEwton is a small parish town, four miles from Stokesley, with a population of one hundred and nineteen persons. The church, a perpetual curacy, is valued in the parliamentary return at £46: patron, the vicar of Hutton Rudby. * The most striking object in the topography of this rugged district is the peaked mountain, called Rosebery Topping, which arrests the attention of every traveller. MIDDLESBURGH, five miles from Stockton, has forty inhabitants.” The church is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Hilda, and is valued in the return to parliament at £75, 6s. : patron, Mr. Hustlar. Linthorpe contains one hundred and ninety-six persons. STOKESLEY is a small but handsome market ºf and parish town, eight miles from Guisborough, having four hundred and sixteen houses, and one thousand eight hundred and ninety-seven inhabitants. The church, a rectory, dedicated to St. Peter, is valued in the Liber regis at £30, 6s. 10}d.: patron, the archbishop of York. At Baysdale, in this parish, Guido de Bouincourt founded a priory here for nuns of the Cistercian order, to which William de Percy and others were benefactors, valued at the dissolution at £20. 1s. 4d. The site of the priory, together with the several lands, was granted in the thirty-sixth of Henry VIII. to Ralph Bulmer and John Thyn, to be held of the king in capite. After divers grants and alienations, * Langdale describes this village as in Acklam parish. * “The market is held on Saturday, and there are fairs on Palm Sunday-eve, Trinity Saturday, and the first Saturday after Old Lammas-day.”—Langdale. Potto. Faceby. Ingleby- juxta- Greenhow. Battersby. Greenhow. Newton. Middles- burgh. Linthorpe. Stokesley. Priory. 528 History of B O O K VII. Easby. Newby. Great and Little Busby. East Di- vision. Guisbo- rough. it became the property of the Fotherleys, of Castleton; and about the year 1729, was purchased by Ann, daughter of William Peirson, Esq., of the Middle Temple, London; but the said Ann dying unmarried and intestate, her brother, Bradshaw Peirson, Esq., succeeded to her estates. The buildings of the priory retaining little of their monastic appearance, are now converted into farm-houses. Easby (population one hundred and twenty-four), Newby” (population one hundred and fifty-two), and Great and Little Busby (population one hundred and seventeen), are small townships in this parish. Busby hall is the seat of the Rev. G. Marwood. The east division of Langbargh liberty contains the following parishes: BROTTON, GUISBOROUGH, LYTHE, DANBY, HINDERWELL, MARSKE, EASINGTON, KIRKLEATHAM, ORMESBY, EGTON, LIVERTON, SKELTON, GLAISDALE, LOFTHOUSE, ty PLEATHAM, AND WESTERIDALE. GUISBoRough is a market F and parish town, eight miles from Stokesley, and two hundred and forty-eight from London. In 1821 this town contained four hun- dred and thirty-five houses, and one thousand nine hundred and twelve inhabitants. The town is of great antiquity, Baxter supposes it to be the urbs caluvium of the Romans, although it does not appear that any Roman remains have been found here. In Domesday it is called Ghigesburg, and at that time contained three manors, one of which was an ancient demesne of the crown: at an early period after the conquest, these manors became united under the fee of Robert de Brus, lord of Skelton, who, at the instance of Pope Calixtus II., and Thurstan archbishop of York, in 1129, founded here a rich and magnificent priory for canons regular of the order of St. Augustine, and dedicated it to the Virgin Mary. Few monastic ruins can boast of the stately grandeur of this priory. The large east window, which forms a part of its venerable remains, is a complete model of the finest pointed architecture, which makes one lament that more of this beautiful structure has not been preserved. The founder died in 1141, and was buried in this monastery, as were many of his successors; it was also the common burial place of most of the nobility of these parts. The yearly revenues of these monks Dugdale estimated at £628. 3s. 4d. * Here is a small school for ten poor children born within the townships of Newby and Seamer, founded and endowed, in 1640, by Christopher Coulson, citizen and dyer of London, a native of this lace. p + The market is on Tuesday, and the fairs are held on the last Tuesdays in March and April, Tuesday before Whitsuntide, third Tuesdays in August and September, second Tuesday in November. Robert Chaloner, Esq. obtained letters-patent for these fairs and market in 1814. - THE COUNTY OF YORK. 529 It was surrendered by Robert Pursglove, alias Silvester, in 1540, who had a pension of £166. 13s. 4d. assigned him out of the revenues. The site was granted in the fourth year of Edward VI. to Sir Thomas Chaloner; and it is at present the pro- perty of his descendant, Robert Chaloner, Esq. The church, a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Nicholas, is valued in the parliamentary return at £100: patron, the archbishop of York. It is a neat edifice, partly rebuilt in 1791. There are also three chapels, for the Methodists, Inde- pendents, and Quakers. A handsome town hall of freestone was built in 1821, upon the site of the ancient toll-booth. On the north side of the church yard is a grammar school and hospital, founded by letters-patent of Queen Elizabeth, dated 19th of June, 1561, granted to Robert Pursglove, clerk, the last prior of Guisborough, who endowed the same with his lands, &c., at Bolam, in the parish of Gainforth, and with sixty-eight acres and twenty-six perches in the parish of Smeaton, in this county. By a late division of the common fields at Bolam, and some additional grants to this charity, its revenues have been greatly increased,—the lands being now 361 acres, and its present rental £375. 15s. 7#d. per annum. At Hutton Lowcross (population fifty-six) was a house or hospital for lepers, dedicated to St. Leonard, which was given to the priory of Guisborough by William de Bernaldby, and the donation was confirmed by Peter, son of Peter de Brus. Some mutilated arches of doors and windows in one of the farm-houses point out the situation of this house. Plantation, or Tocketts,” has a population of forty-six. Common Dale, (population eighty-six), and Pinchingthorpe (population eighty), are the remaining townships in this parish. - *- DANBY, nine miles from Guisborough, has one thousand three hundred and seventy-three inhabitants. . - The church, a modern edifice, is a perpetual curacy, in the gift of Wiscount Downe. It is valued in the parliamentary return at £90. North of the church, on the brow of a naked hill, of no great elevation, stand the remains of Danby castle, supposed to have been built, soon after the conquest, by Robert de Brus; or more probably by William de Latimer, soon after the reign of Edward II., when Danby came to the Latimers by marriage with the daughter of Robert de Thweng, as the arms of Latimer appear in the escutcheons on the north wall. EASINGTON, twelve miles from Whitby, has five hundred and seven inhabitants. * This place gave name to a family called Tocketts, who resided here for many generations. There was an ancient chapel here, dedicated to St. James, not a vestige of which is now to be found. WOL. III. 6 T CHAP. III. Church. * Grammar- school. Hutton Lowcross. Plantation orTocketts Common Dale. Pinching- thorpe. Danby. Castle. Easington. 530 HISTORY OF B O O K VII. Egton. Gormond abbey. Lythe. Mulgrave Castle. The benefice is a rectory, dedicated to All Saints, and valued in the Liber regis at £14. 8s. 6d. : patron, the king. - EgtoN, seven miles from Whitby, has one thousand and thirty-seven inhabitants. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, in the patronage of the archbishop of York. The church, dedicated to St. Hilda, was consecrated by the bishop of Damascus, on June 18th, 1349. There are also chapels belonging to the Methodists and Catholics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gromond abbey, in this parish, was a cell to the abbey of Gramont, in France, given by Joan, wife of Robert de Turnham, and confirmed by King John, in the fifteenth year of his reign. At the general dissolution it was valued, according to Dugdale, at £12, 2s. 8d. The site, in the thirty-fifth year of Henry VIII., was granted to Edward Wright, Esq., for the sum of £184, 13s. 2d., subject to a yearly payment of 18s. 10d. The next year it came into the possession of Sir Richard Cholmley, Knight, and continued till 1668, and now belongs to Richard and Matthew Agar, and Mr. John Linskill. From the ruins of the convent, a spacious farm-house, with out-offices, has been long ago erected at the west end of the priory church. . • , . . . . . . , . At July park houses are the traces of an ancient large building, which had been moated round. It was the seat of Lord Mauley; a church or chapel stood near it, and the field is still called Kirkfield. About forty yards west may be traced the remains of an ancient Roman military road, called Wade’s causeway. Newbiggin hall, the seat of H. W. Yeoman, Esq., was an ancient manor belonging to the Mauleys, lords of Mulgrave, and, with Egton and other possessions, de- scended to the Salvins, by marriage. This ancient seat had long been in ruins, on the site of which the present modern mansion has been erected. LYTHE, four miles from Whitby, is a considerable parish town, on the road from the last mentioned town to Guisborough. Population, one thousand one hundred and thirty-four. The church, a vicarage, dedicated to St. Oswald, is valued in the return to parliament at £85: patron, the archbishop of York. Mulgrave castle, in this parish, is the elegant seat of the earl of Mulgrave. It is a modern edifice, erected from the designs of P. Atkinson, Esq. The entire building is castellated, and has an imposing appearance. . . . At no great distance from the present elegant mansion, upon a steep hill, stand the ruins of an ancient castle, built, according to Camden, two hundred years before the conquest. Leland thus notices it; “Mougrave castel standeth on a craggy hille, and on eche side of it is a hille, far higher than that whereon the castel standeth. . The north hille on the topp of it hath certain stones communely caulid Wadde's grave, whom the people there say to have bene a gigant, and owner of Mougrave.” This castle and barony, in the reign of Richard I. belonged to THE COUNTY OF YORK. 531 Robert de Turnham, whose daughter, Isabel, was given by King John in marriage to Peter de Mauley, a native of Picton, as a reward for that execrable fact, the murder of Arthur, his elder brother's son, to clear his own title to the crown. Barnby (population two hundred and seventy), Borrowby (population sixty-four), Ellerby (population eighty), Hutton Mulgrave (population ninety), Nickelby (popu- lation one hundred and forty seven), Newton Mulgrave (population one hundred and thirty-four), and Ugthorpe (population two hundred and seventy-five), are town- ships in this parish. . . . - * . x * r , - . . UPLEATHAM is a parish town, three miles from Guisborough. Population, two hundred and thirty-nine. - * * * - The church is a perpetual curacy, valued in the return to parliament at £65: patron, the archbishop of York. Liverton, nine miles from Guisborough, has two hundred and fifty-one inha- bitants, - - The chapel here is small, and, according to Langsdale, is accounted to belong to Easington parish. . . . . . i , BRotton, six miles from Guisborough, is an ancient chapelry, enjoying parochial rights, but dependent on the church of Skelton. It contains three hundred and thirty-two inhabitants. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Kilton has one hundred inhabitants. - Skinningrave has sixty inhabitants. Here is the seat of J. Easterby, Esq. “ GLASEDALE, nine miles from Whitby, has one thousand and forty-three inhabitants. The chapel here is a perpetual curacy, valued in the Liber regis at £38. 16s. 10d. : patron, the archbishop of York. Langdale describes this township as being part of Danby parish. - . . . . - . . . . . The elegant parish town of KIRKLEATHAM is situated four miles north of Guis- borough. In 1821 it contained six hundred and eighty-six inhabitants. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the parliamentary return at £50: patron, H. Vansittart, Esq. The church, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, is a very handsome stone building, supported by Tuscan columns, and at the west end is a well-toned Adjoining the east window of the church is a mausoleum, erected by Cholmley Turner, Esq., in 1740, underneath which is the family vault. Here is a very superb hospital, enclosing three sides of a square, the fourth ornamented with large iron gates. This benevolent charity was founded in 1976, by Sir William Turner, Knight, lord mayor of London in 1669.” He endowed organ. * Sir William Turner, also, by his will bequeathed 35000 for founding a free grammar-school here, which was erected in 1709 by Cholmley Turner, Esq. his nephew ; it is a large and handsome quadrangular building near the hospital. The master's salary is £100, and that of the usher, É50; but the school has been discontinued many years. The building contained apartments for the master CHAP. III. Barnby. Borrowby. Ellerby. Hutton Mulgrave. Nickelby. Newton Mulgrave. Ugthorpe. Upleatham Liverton. Brotton. Kilton. Skinnin- grave. Glasedale. Kirk- leatham. Hospital. 532 HISTORY OF it with lands, said to be worth £1500 per annum, for the support of a master and mistress, ten boys and ten girls, ten old men and ten old women, &c. The latter are admitted at the age of sixty-three, and have each a salary of £8 per annum, a good dinner provided for them every day, by the master and mistress of the hospital, and are well clothed. In the front of the building is a meat chapel, built in a style of superior elegance. Above the altar is a beautiful window of painted glass, much superior to any similar work in the kingdom. In the centre of it is represented the offerings of the Magi at the birth of our Saviour; on one side a full-length figure of Sir William Turner, the founder, in his robes as lord mayor of London; and on the other, John Turner, Esq., serjeant at law.” The hall, a neat edifice, is the seat of Sir C. Turner, Bart. East and West Coatham are in this parish. The delightful scenery, and extensive prospects, with which this place is surrounded, conspire to attract the admiration of all who visit and contemplate its beauties. The air is remarkably salubrious, the sands extensive, and peculiarly fine. There is here a small free- school, conducted on the Madras system, for the education of fifty poor children: twelve of the number have annually given them a suit of clothes each. WILTON is a parish town, four miles from Guisborough, with a population of four hundred and five persons. The church is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, of the clear value of £19.6s. : patron, the Hon. John Lowther. The church was anciently a chapelry within the parish of Kirkleatham, but the chapel seems not to have been dependent on that church. The castle here belonged to the ancient family of the Bulmers, and in which it continued till Sir John Bulmer, Knight, the last possessor of that family, engaging in the northern insurrection, called the Pilgrimage of Grace, was attainted for high treason, when this and other estates were forfeited to the crown. Till within these few years, there were some remains of its former grandeur, but the tower being in a very ruinous state, it was taken down, and a new edifice, in the same style of building, erected on its site, by the present proprietor.t. B O O. K. VII. Wilton. Church. Castle. and usher, as well as the school-room. The lord or lady of the manor of Kirkleatham, who is sole governor or governess of the hospital, is sole trustee of the school. * At the entrance to the hospital, a stately oak points out the spot where stood the cottage that gave birth to Tom Brown, the hero of Dettengen, which took place about 1715. He died January 19, 1746. + “Near the centre of the village are the remains of St. Ellen's chapel, founded, according to Torr, by Sir William Bulmer, in the twenty-third of Henry VIII, for two priests to say mass for the souls of him and his wife, with stipends, one 384. 10s. and the other £4 per annum, to be paid by the church- wardens of Kirkleatham, out of lands for that purpose, and also for the support of four poor men and four poor women.”—Graves. THE COUNTY OF YORK. . 533 * | LOFTHOUSE is a parish town, eight miles from Guisborough. Population, one thousand one hundred and *eventy-eight. r - The church is a rectory, dedicated to St. Leonard, and valued in the Liber regis at £10. 11s. 0}d.: patron, the king. The church, a small edifice, was given by William de Saucy to the prior and convent of Guisborough, and continued a rectory under their patronage till the dissolution of that monastery, when it came to the crown. Lofthouse hall is the seat of Sir R. L. Dundas, Bart. It is a spacious mansion with handsome grounds. At Handale, or Grendale, in this township, a Benedictine priory was founded in 1133, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, by William de Percy, grandson of the first W. de Percy, who endowed it with lands in Grendale, Dunsley, and Staxton. At the dissolution there were eight nuns, when the revenue was only £13, 19s. The site of this priory was granted, in the thirty-fifth of Henry VIII. to Ambrose Beckwith, in whose descendants it continued for several generations. It is now the property of Thomas Stevenson, Esq. Little of this monastic building now remains, except the west end of the chapel, and some of the walls which are observable in the farm- house erected on the site. - *- ORMEsby is a parish town, six miles west of Guisborough. Population, three hundred and forty-nine. - - * The church, a vicarage, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, is valued in the parliamentary return at £140: patron, the archbishop of York. The hall is the seat of Sir W. Pennyman, Bart. It is a modern mansion, built by Mrs. Pennyman, daughter of Archbishop Wake, and is situate on an eminence, commanding a pleasant prospect of the mouth of the Tees, and the ocean. Cleveland port, formerly Cargofleet, in this township, is situate upon the river Tees. About two thirds of the produce of Cleveland are shipped and sent coastwise to London, Newcastle, and other markets, from this place. Graves says, the trade carried on here averages nearly £1000 per day throughout the year. Eston is a small chapelry, (population two hundred and seventy-two,) four miles from Guisborough. The chapel is ancient, and is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £20: patron, the dean of York. Morton (population twenty-six), Normanby (population one hundred and twenty- two), and Upsall (population sixteen), are townships in this parish. •T HINDERWELL is a parish town, eight miles from Whitby, on the coast. Popula- tion, one thousand four hundred and eighty-three. CHAP. III. Lofthouse. Church. Priory. Ormesby. Eston. Morton. Normanby Upsall. Hinder- well. The church, a rectory, dedicated to St. Hilda, is valued in the Liber regis at £15: patron, T. Smith, Esq. : - Runswick, in this township, is a small fishing village about a mile east of VOL. III. - 6 U. Runswick. 534. . - HISTORY OF §. B O O K VII. Rousby or Roxby. Skeeton. Castle. Strong- how. Great Moorsome Wester- dale. Marske. Redcar. Allerton- shire. Staithes, singfilarly situate on the margin of the sea, which here forms an immense inlet, called Runswick bay, capable of containing severaghundred sail of ships. Rousby or Roacby (population two hundred and thirty-six), in this parish, is a small chapelry. It was founded and endowed in the reign of Henry V., by the Boynton family; in the east window are effigies in painted glass, bearing the arms of Boynton, and probably the founder. SKEETON, a parish town, three miles from Guisborough, contains seven hundred and ninety-one inhabitants. • . g - . The church, a perpetual curacy, dedicated to All Saints, is valued in the parliamentary return at £79: patron, the archbishop of York. Skelton castle is the elegant seat of John Wharton, Esq. Stronghow (population ninety-one,) and Great Moorsome (population three hundred and fifty-three), are townships in this parish. - WESTERDALE, ten miles from Guisborough, has two hundred and eighty-one inha- bitants. This place is said to be a chapelry under Stokesley, with parochial rights, MARSKE, a parish town, on the coast, six miles from Guisborough, has five hundred and seventy-six inhabitants. The church, a vicarage, dedicated to St. Germain, is valued in the parliamentary return at £72: patron, Lord Dundas. Marske hall is the seat of the above-named nobleman. Redcar, a considerable fishing town, at the mouth of the Tees, has six hundred and seventy-three inhabitants. The coast here is very rocky, and the navigation dangerous. r A new church has recently been erected at this watering place, and there are also chapels for the Wesleyan Methodists and Independents. Allertonshire * contains the following parishes:— BIRKBY, KIRKBY SIGSTON, oSMOTHERLEY, GREAT SMEATON, LEAK, SESSAY, HUTTON CONYERS, NORTH OTTERINGTON, THORNTON-LE-STREET, WEST ROUNCTON, AND THE BOROUGH OF NORTHALLERTON. NorthALLERTON is a considerable market borought and parish town, eight miles * Allertonshire is a wapentake, of which the right reverend the lord bishop of Durham is lord and chief-bailiff. The wapentake and liberty are co-extensive. It is situate about twenty-five miles north from York, from which point it extends over a narrow tract of country to the confines of the county of Durham, and forms a part of the rich vale of Mowbray. + The market is on Wednesday, and fairs are held on February 14, and the week preceding, for horses only, for which this place is celebrated; May 5 and 6, September 5 and 6, October 3 and 4, and the second Wednesday in the same month. It returns two members to parliament, a privilege first granted in the twenty-sixth of Edward I. The bishop of Durham's bailiff is the returning officer. There are two hundred and four burgage houses, ninety-two of which are the property of the earl of Harewood and H. Peirse, Esq. 4- THE COUNTY OF YORK. * %. 535 from Bedale, and two hundred and twenty-six from London. *In 1821, this town - #fifty-seven houses, and two thousand six hundred and contained five hundred aſ twenty-six inhabitants. - - The benefice peculiar is a vicarage, valued in the king's books at £17. 10s. : patron, the dean and chapter of Durham. The church, dedicated to All Saints, is a very ancient and elegant structure, and was built, according to Dr. Stukeley’s opinion, by the Northumbrian apostle, Paulinus, about the year 630. * On the west side of the town stood a castle, built by Rufus, bishop of Durham, in the reign of Henry I., but in Leland's time there was not a vestige of the walls remaining. The bishop of Durham had here a palace, “strong of building and well moted,” as Leland says, which stood about two hundred yards west of the church, but the late gothic proprietors have not left one stone upon another. On the east side of the town stood a house of Carmelites, founded by Thomas Hatfield, bishop of Durham, or, according to some, by King Edward III. about the year 1345, dedicated to St. Mary. It was surrendered by William Wom- mefraye and nine brethren. The site was granted (in the seventh year of Edward the Sixth) to Richard and H. Vavasour. Here was a grammar and singing school, when, in 1327, the prior of Durham presented J. Podesay to be master of it. The present school, to which the dean and chapter of that church nominate a master, is undoubtedly by the same. It appears, however, to have been of royal foundation. - Here is the register office for the North riding of this county, built in 1736; and the house of correction and court-room, built not many years since, &c., where the general quarter-sessions of the peace for the North riding are held. Brompton is a chapelry, with one thousand two hundred and twenty-three inhabitants. Deighton (population one hundred and thirty-four) also has a chapel of ease recently erected. High Worsall (population one hundred and fifty-four), has a chapel to Northallerton. It is a perpetual curacy, valued in the parliamentary return at £40 : patron, the vicar of this parish. Romanby has two hundred and ninety-four inhabitants, - . THoRNToN-LE-STREET is a small parish town, three miles from Thirsk. Popu- lation, one hundred and thirty-one. The church, a vicarage, valued in the par- the patronage of the dean and chapter of Christ liamentary return at £78, is in Church, Oxford. North Kilvington has sixty-eight inhabitants. BIRKBy, a parish town, six miles from Northallerton, has ninety inhabitants. The church, a rectory, dedicated to St. Peter, is valued in the Liber regis at £6. 13s. 4d: patron, the bishop of Durham. - Hutton Bonville has one hundred and seven inhabitants. CHAP. III. North- . allerton. Castle. Brompton. f Deighton. High Worsall. “ Romanby. Thornton- le-Street. North Kil- Vington. Birkby. Hutton Bonville. 536 # tº. HISTORY OF #3 () () K VI I. Little Smeaton. Hutton Conyers. Leak. Borrowby. Crosby. Knayton- with- Prawith. Land- moth- with- Catto. Gueldable. Nether- Silton. West Rouncton. Sessay. Hutton Sessay. Kirkby Sigston. Sowerby under- Catcliffe. The chapel peculiar is a perpetual curacy, dedicated to St. Lawrence, and valued in the parliamentary return at £40: patron, H. Piers, Esq. ſ Hutton hall is the seat of W. B. Wrightson, Esq. of Hutton Bonville, recently purchased by Henry Peirse, Esq., adjoining his other estates at Lazenby, &c., were all once the property and residence of the ancient family of Conyers. The last baronet of that family (Sir Thomas) died a few years ago in Chester-le-Street. - ... 2 Little Smeaton has sixty-four inhabitants. HUTTON ConyERs is a small village, extra parochial. hundred and twenty-seven inhabitants. a branch of the family of Conyers, of Stockburn, Durham, whose hall appears to have been on the north side of the village, in a field now called the hall garth, the foundations of which show themselves in every direction; it appears to have been moated round. The Mallories, of Studley, having, by marriage, afterwards come into possession of this estate, it is now the property of Mrs. Lawrence. LEAK is a small parish town, having only eleven inhabitants. The church is a vicarage, dedicated to St. Mary, and valued in the Liber regis at £16: patron, the bishop of Durham. * - Borrowby (population two hundred and sixty-seven), Crosby (population thirty- nine), Knayton-with-Brawith (population three hundred and seventy-seven), Land-moth-with-Catto (population fifty-nine), Gueldable (population one hundred and twenty-eight), and Nether Silton, population two hundred and two), are town- ships in this parish. - - WEST Rouncton is a parish town, seven miles from Northallerton, with two hundred and seventeen inhabitants. The church, a rectory, dedicated to St. James, is valued in the king's books at £6: patron, the king. SESSAY, six miles from Thirsk, has three hundred and sixty-four inhabitants. The church, a rectory, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, is valued in the Liber regis at £170s. 24d: patron, Viscount Downe. - - The hall is the handsome seat of the Hon. and Rev. W. H. Dawnay. Hutton Sessay has a population of one hundred and twenty-nine. KIRKBY SIGstoN, three miles from Northallerton, has one hundred and thirty- one inhabitants. The church, a rectory, dedicated to St. Lawrence, is valued in the Liber regis at £12 13s. 4d: patron, Sir Thomas Slingsby, Bart. Here was formerly a castle, surrounded by a deep moat, but when or by whom built we have no account. - - Sowerby-under-Catcliffe (population fifty-three), and Winton, have one hundred and thirty-eight inhabitants. The mansion and estate In 1821, it contained one This place was anciently the residence of THE COUNTY OF YORK. 537 *. Osmothen LEY is a parish town, seven miles from Northalerton. Population, seven hundred and fifty-five. The church peculiar is a vicarage, dedicated to St. Peter; it is valued in the parliamentary return at £51, and is in the patronage of the bishop of Durham. - - Here is a Catholic chapel, a Meeting-house for the Friends, and a Wesleyan Methodist chapel. - Ellerbeck (population eighty-one), Thimbleby (population two hundred)? and West Harlsey (population fifty-one), are small townships in this parish. “At the last place,” says Leland, “Strangwaise the judge builded a praty castelle.” The keep of this castle on the estate of the earl of Harewood, having received considerable injury from lightning, was, a few years since, taken down. NonTH OTTERINGTON, three miles from Northallerton, has only forty-four inhabitants. The church, a vicarage, dedicated to St. Michael, is valued in the parliamentary return at £104: patron, Christ Church, Oxford. Thornton-le-Beans (population two hundred and forty-seven), and Thornton-le- Moor (population two hundred and ninety-four), are townships in this parish. VOL. III. CHAP. III. Osmo- therley. Ellerbeck. Thimble-, by. West Harlsey. North Ottering- ton. Thornton le-Beans Thornton- le-Moor. ABBot, inscription to J. F. i. 311 Abbotside, High, iii. 501 Aberford, iii. 379; school ib. Aboriginal inhabitants, i. 2; sub- jugated, 3; revolts against the Romans, ib. suppressed by Lollius Urbicus, 4 Acaster Malbis, i. 467; of priests, 468 Acklam, ii. 331; British remains at, 332 -, iii. 523 Ackworth, iii.224; Friends'school, ib. seats, 225 Acomb, i. 469 Addingham, iii. 326 Addle, iii. 383 Adlingfleet, iii. 233 { Adwick-upon-Dearne, iii. 169 ——- Ie Street, iii. 164; Priory, 165 . Agbrigg wapentake. iii. 265 Agriculture of the North riding, i. 136; of the East riding, 142; of the West riding, 144 Ainderby Steeple, iii. 520 Ainstey of York, i. 466 Aire river, i. 169; navigation, ii. 48} - - - Airmym, iii. 231 Aislaby, iii. 444 - Alcocke, notice of Bishop, ii. 196 Alcuin's library destroyed, i. 256 Aldborough, iii. 407; Roman pavement, 408; borough, ib. Aldbrough, ii. 421; Saxon in- scription at, 422 Aldfield, iii. 378 - Alfred called to the throne, i. 22; monument to, ii. 260; cave, iii. 460 - Allerstone, iii. 460 Allerthorpe, ii. 256 —, iii. 494; hall, ib. Allerton Mauleverer, iii. 417; hall, ib. priory, ib. 'Allertonshire, iii. 534 Almondbury, iii. 267, 270 college Q = ºr I N D E X. Alme, iii. 483 Alverthorpe, iii. 287 Alured of Beverley, notice of, ii. 195 - Ammonites, iii. 442 Ampleforth, iii. 477; college, ib. Anderson, inscription to, i. 301 Anlaby, ii. 105 Anstan, iii. 139 Apperley bridge, iii.262 Appleton Roebuck, i. 481 ; nun- nery, ib. — le Street, iii. 476 — on Wiske, iii. 525 Appletree Wick, iii. 329 Aram, notice of Eugene, iii. 415 Archbishops, vide York Arden-with-Ardenside, iii. 491 Ardsley, East, iii.288 —, West, iii.289 Argam, ii. 302 Arkendale, iii. 404 Arkengarth dale, iii. 512; lead mines, ib. Arksey-with-Bentley, iii. 160 Armitage, notice of the Rev. R. ii. 506 Armley, ii. 524, 549; 550; camp, ib. Armthorpe, iii. 134 Arnecliffe, iii. 344 - Arthington nunnery, iii. 384 Arthur crowned, i. 14; besieges York, ib. slain, 15 Aske hall, iii. 517 Askerne, iii. 226 Askham Bryan, i. 471 Richard, i. 472 Askrigg, iii. 502 A ston, iii. 144 Athelstan’s charter to Beverley monastery, ii. 115 Attercliffe cum Darnal, iii. 78; chapel, ib. new church, 79; manor, 80 Atwick, ii. 406 Aughton, ii. 231 ; castle, 232 Austhorpe, iii. 383 house, Austwick, iii. 349 Aysgarth, iii. 501; force, ib. Ayton, iii. 525 , East, iii. 457 , West, iii. 458 Badsworth, iii. 225 Baildon, iii. 392 Bainbridge, iii. 502 Bainton, ii. 261; hall, 262 — Beacon Div. Harthill wapentake, ii. 257 Balby, iii. 196 Barden, iii. 343; tower, ib. Bardsey, iii. 379 Barforth, iii. 513 Barkisland, iii. 247 Barkstone Ash wapentake, iii.303 Barlby, ii. 354 Barmby-on-the-Moor, ii. 252 - on-the-Marsh, ii. 379 Barmston, ii. 407; almshouses, 408 •º Barnborough, iii. 166; 167; hall, 168 Barningham, iii. 512 Barnoldswick, iii. 327 Barnsley, iii. 322; church, ih. trade, ib. Barton, iii. 520 —— le Street, iii. 476 Barwick-in-Elmet, iii. 380 Batley, iii. 289; free-school, ib. Battle between the Mercians, East Anglians, and Northum- brians, in 655, i. 21 Baynard's castle, ii. 215 Beamsley, iii. 326 Beck house, iii. 462 Bedale, iii. 495; castle, ib. Beeford, ii. 408 Beeston, ii. 552; coal mines, ib. Bellassis, inscriptions to Sir H. i. 311 Bellerby, iii. 504 belthorpe, ii. 252 Bempton, ii. 302 Bennet, inscription to, i. 304 church, 54 IND EX, Benningbrough, iii. 482 Bentham, iii. 345 Bentley, notice of R., iii. 300 Bessingby, ii. 303 Beswick, ii. 264 Beverley, ii. 111 ; etymology, ib. St. John of, ib. Athelstan's charter to the church of 115; miraculous preservation of 118; account of in Domesday book, ib. charters granted, 120; early commerce, 121 ; merchants' guild, 122; quarrel between Hull & Beverley, ib. ancient population, 123 ; contest their rights with Hull, 124; Henry V. visits, 125; expenses of, 126; early printing at, 127 ; quarrels renewed between Beverley and Hull, 128; decay of, 130; hurricane, ib. plague at, ib. corporation, 13 l ; parliamen- tary representation, ib. popu- lation, 132; foundation of the minster, 133; architecture of, ib. destroyed by the Danes, 134; Athelstan's gifts, 135; sanctuary, 136; provostry, 138; church burnt, 139; relics of St. John, ib. jurisdiction of the church, 140; dissolution of, ib. provosts, lists of, 142; minster repaired, 145; survey of the exterior, 147; nave, 148; transept, 149; east end, 150; interior of the church, 151 ; screen, 153; 'organ, ib. choir, ib. stalls, ib. altar screen, 155; communion table, 156; pulpit, ib. vestry, ib, frid stool, ib. staircase, ib. font, 157; painting, ib. monuments, ib. dimensions of, 163; minster fund, ib, an- cient extent of, 166; gates of, ib. St. Mary's church, 167; sculptures of minstrels, 170; font, ib. paintings of the kings of England, 172; monuments in, 176; Blackfriars monastery, 179; Austin Friars, 180; St. Nicholas’ hospital, ib. St. Giles's hospital, 181; knights hospitallers, ib. Trinity hos- pital, 182; gas works, 183; the Beck, ib. Fleming gate, 184; Hailgarth, ib. Routh's hospital, 185; grammar-school, ib, the- atre, 186; Independent cha- pel, ib. Maison de Dieu, ib. Quakers’ meeting, 187; Nor- wood, ib. assembly rooms, ib. north bar, ib. race course, 188; sessions house and gaol, ib. cross, 189; guildhali, 190; register office, 191; Fox’s hos- pital, ib. Warton's hospital, i02; free-school, ib. Wesleyan chapel, ib. Baptist chapel, 193; Tymperon's hospital, ib. pas- tures, ib. notices of eminent natives of, 195; liberties of, 201; parks, 203 Bickerton, i. 475 Bierley, North, iii. 259 hall, iii. 332 Bilbrough, i, 437 - Bilton, i. 473; priory, ib. , ii. 473 Bingley, iii. 384; school, ib. Birdforth, iii. 490 —- wapentake, iii. 488 Birdsall, ii. 333; hall, ib. Birkby, iii. 535 Birkin, iii. 308 Birstall, iii. 263 Birsthwaite, iii. 411 —-— hall, iii. 319 Bishop Burton, ii. 207; British cemetery at, 208; etymology, 209; cross, 211 —— Monkton, iii. 372 Thornton, iii. 372 Wilton, ii. 251 º Bishopthorpe, i. 476; palace, ib. Black Burton, iii. 360 Blacktoft, ii. 381 Blake hall, iii. 298 Bolton abbey, iii. 340; remains, 341 castle, iii. 505 —— Percy, i. 478 by Bowland, iii. 347; hall, 348; forest, ib. —— upon Dearne, iii. 168 upon Swale, iii. 520 Bondgate, iii. 372 Bootham ward, York, survey of, i. 398; bar, i. 249 Boroughbridge, iii. 409; Devil's arrows, ib. battle of, in 1320, i. 43 ; in 1321, ib. Bossall, iii. 483 Boston, iii. 314 Bosville, notice of C., iii. 198 Bowes, iii. 512 Bowling hall, iii. 259 Boynton, ii. 303; hall, 304 Bracewell, iii. 327 Brackenholme, ii. 354 Bradfield, iii. 155 Bradford, iii. 255; population, ib. early state, ib. Leland's account of, 256; manor, ib. singular tenure, ib. Historical notices of, 257; Piece hall, ib. church, 258; Christ church, ib. chapels, ih. grammar-school, ib. Bradley hall, iii. 253 Brafferton, iii. 481 Braith well, iii. 131; church, ib. monuments, 132; cross, ib. Bramham, iii. 312 ; moor, 313; park, ib. lodge, ib. Bramhope, iii. 392 Bramley, ii. 525, 557; iii. 133 Brandsburton, ii. 409 Bransby, iii. 481 Brantingham, ii. 206 Brayton, iii. 308 - Breary, inscription to S., i. 307 Bretton, West, iii. 301 Bridlington, ii. 273; ancient ex- tent, ib. population,274; church, ib. font, 278; dimensions of the church, 279; burial ground, ib. manor, 281 ; priory, 283; pos- sessions of, ib. dissolution, 287; survey of the priory, ib. list of priors, 290; Bayle gate, 294; chapels, ib. market, 295; gram- mar-school, ib. quay, 297; cha- lybeate spring, 299; batteries, ib. port, ib., harbour, 300 ; spring, 301 Briggs, notice of H., iii. 246 Brightside Byerlow, iii. 77 Brignall, iii. 517 Brimham rocks, iii. 413 Brindleys, ii. 233 Britons driven into Wales, i. 15 Broadley, seat of J., ii. 105 Brodsworth, iii. 158 Brompton, iii. 459; John of, ib. Brooke, notice of J. C., iii. 323 Broom hall, iii. 77 Broomhead hall, iii. 156 Brotherton, iii. 308 Brotton, iii. 531 Brough ferry, ii. 219; hall, iii. 497 notice of Broughton, iii. 328; hall, ib. Browsholme hall, iii. 348 Bruce invades England, i. 42 ; advances to York, ib. Bubwith, ii. 233 * Buckrose wapentake, ii. 331 Bugthorpe, ii. 334 Bulmer wapentake, iii. 477 ——, iii. 484 - Burgh, inscription to, i. 302 Wallis, iii. 225 Burley, iii. 392 Burmby, ii. 252 Burmeston, iii. 493 - Burnett, notice of Dr., iii. 410 Burnsall, iii. 328 Burntyates, iii. 415 Burstall priory, ii. 452 Burstwick - cum - Skeckling, ii. 449 ; manor, ib. - Burton, notice of H., ii. 333; iii. 263 , monument to Dr., i. 327 Agnes, ii. 304 ; church, ib. monuments in, 305; hall, 306 Constable hall, Holder- ness, ii. 439 Constable, iii. 504. — Fleming, ii. 308 —— Leonard, iii. 410 IND EX. 541 Burton Pidsea, ii. 426 Burythorpe, ii. 334 Busli, family of De, iii. 6 Buttercrambe, iii. 484 Byland, Old, iii. 489; abbey, ib. Byrome, iii. 308 Calcaria, iii. 311 Calder river, i. 169 Caledonians, incursions of, i. 4; wall built by Severus, 5; his death and burial, ib. Calton, iii. 355 Nº. Calverley, iii. 260; hall, ib, tra- gedy, ib. Cambodunum, iii. 267, 270 Campsall, iii. 226 Camulodunum, iii. 464 Cannon hall, iii. 318 Cantley, iii. 120 Carleton, iii. 330 Carlisle, monument to the Earl of, i. 309 Carlton, iii. 490, 526 —— Miniott, iii. 489 Carnaby, ii. 309 Carr house, iii. 196 Castle Howard, iii. 485; mu- seum, 487; monuments, ib. park, 488 Castleberg, iii. 351 Castleford, iii. 227; church, 228 Castlegate postern, York, i. 251 Catterick, iii. 496; chapel, ib. Catton, ii. 253 Catwick, ii. 409 - Cave, South, ii. 205; castle, 206; —-, North, ii. 213 * Cawood, iii. 309; castle, ib. Cawsby, iii. 489 Cawthorne, iii. 318 Cayton, iii. 457 Chapel Allerton, ii. 524, 558; Roman remains, 560 le-dale, iii. 374 le-grove, iii. 252 Charles I. proceeds against the Scotch, i. 82; differences be- tween the king and parliament, 84; besieges Hull, 86 Cheapsides, ii. 381 Cherry Burton, ii. 212 Chevet, iii. 322 - Cholmley, notice of the family of, ..iii. 440 - Civil government of this county, i. 205 Clapham, iii. 348 g Clarke, notice of the Rev., iii. 460 Claro wapentake, iii. 394 Clayton, iii. 157 Cleasby, iii. 520 Cleckheaton, iii.263; new church, ib. Clifton, i. 445; iii. 119 upon Ure, iii. 500 WOL. III, Climate of the North riding, i. 151; of the East riding, 152; of the West riding, ib. Clint, iii. 423 Clints hall, iii. 516 Cloughton, iii. 458 Coal field, i. 163 Coatham, iii. 532 Coghill hall, iii. 222 Coinage, value of, at different periods, i. 176 Cold Kirby, iii. 492 Collingham iii. 380 Colton, i. 482 Coningsborough, iii. 105; etymo- logy, 106; chapel, 108; castle, 113; keep, ib. church, 118 Congreve, notice of W., iii. 380 Constable, inscrip.to Sir M., ii.310 — —, inscrip. to the family of, ii. 411 Constantine, birth of, i. 10; pro- claimed emperor, ib. death, 11 Cook, notice of Captain, iii. 524 Cookridge, iii. 383 Copgrove, iii. 410 Copmanthorpe, i. 471 Cottam, ii. 323 Cottingham, ii. 213; manor of, 214; castle, 215, 218; Saint George's guild, ib. Cotting with, East, ii. 232 Cotton manufacture in Yorkshire, i. 189; official value of, 194 Cottrel, tomb of, i. 299 Coverham, iii. 503; abbey, ib. Cowden, ii. 411 Cowick, iii. 231 Cowlam, ii. 335 Cowthorpe, iii. 418; oak, ib. Cowton, East, iii. 520 Coxwold, iii. 489 Crack-pot cave, iii. 470 Craike, iii. 478; castle, ib. Crambe, iii. 484 Crathorne, iti. 525 Craven, notice of Dr., iii. 415 —, notice of Sir W. iii. 329 Cresacre, tomb of, iii. 167 Croft, iii. 521 - ——, inscription to, i. 302 Crofton, iii. 291 Crookhall wood, iii. 130 Cropton, iii. 462 Crossland, South, iii.271 ; hall, ib. Cumberland, tomb of the countess of, i. 306 Cumberworth, iii. 323 Cundall, iii. 491 Cusworth house, iii. 143 Cutlery, manufacture of, i. 197 Dacre, iii. 378 Dade, notice of the Rev. W., ii. 307 Dalby, iii. 485 6 Y Dalton, North, ii. 262 t —, South, ii. 218; house, 219 Danby, iii. 529; castle, ib. Wiske, iii. 521 Danes, first invasion of, i. 25; invade Northumbria, 26; de- feated by Edward, 28 - dale, ii. 261 —— dyke, ii. 31.4 Darfield, iii. 157 Darrington, iii. 229 Darton, iii. 318 Davenport, monument to Sir T. i. 308 De la Pole, family of, mansion of, 74 Deaitry, monument to Dr., i. 308 Deane, notice of Dr., iii. 254 Deans of York, i. 320 Deighton, ii. 350 Delgovitia, station of, ii. 242 Denby Grange, iii. 276 Denley, iii. 321 Dent, iii. 358 Denton, iii. 393 Derwent river, i. 169 Devil’s arrows, iii. 409 Dewsbury, iii. 291; ancient cross, 292; church, 293; etymology, ib. St. John's church, ib. cha- pels, ib. Dickering wapentake, ii. 273 Dinnington, iii. 133 Dishforth, iii. 493 Dodsworth, notice of R., iii. 468 Domesday book, account of pos- sessors of Yorkshire at that pe- riod, i. 222 . Don, river, i. 170; iii. 3; naviga- tion, 23 Doncaster, soke of, iii. 175; bo- rough of, ib. history, ib. ety- mology, 176; Roman road, ib. altar, ITT ; Saxon palace, ib. manor, 178; incorporation, 179; visited by James I. 180; civil war, ib. death of Rainsborough, 181-; improvements, 183; St. George's church, 184; monu- ments, 186; Christchurch, 188; charities, 189; dispensary, 190; White friars, 191; Grey friars, ib. hospital, 192; St. Mary Magdalen chapel, ib. grammar school, 193; races, ib. grand stand, 194; cross, ib. mansion house, 195; betting room, ib. Douk cave, iii. 347 Downholme, iii. 503 & º Drake, monument to Dr., ii. 176 Drax, iii.309; grammar school, ib. Long, ib. Drewton, ii. 212 - Driffield, Great, ii. 257; chapels, 259; population, ib. —, Little, ii. 259; monu- ment to King Alfred, 260 ii, 8; 542 IND EX. Eston, iii. 533 Etton, ii. 220 Everingham, ii. 235; hall, 236 Eymes, tomb of, i. 299 Eyreholme, iii. 476 Faceby, iii. 527 Fairfax, Lord, appointed general of the northern army by the parliament, i. 87 ; made go- vernor of York, 100; monu- ment to, 473, 480 Fangfoss, ii. 253 Farnham, iii. 411 Farnley wood, riots in, i. 109 —, ii. 554; plot, 555 —, iii. 393; hall, ib. Featherstone, iii. 230 Feliskirk, iii. 490; preceptory, ib. Felkirk, iii. 319 - Ferriby, North, ii. 106; manor, ib. priory, ib. Ferry Frystone, iii. 230 Ferrybridge, iii. 230 Fewston, iii. 411 Fido, notice of A., ii. 354 Field, menument to J., ii. 56 Filey, iii. 459; bridge, ib. Fimber, ii. 345 - Finch, monument to Dean, i. 304 Finghall, iii. 504 Firbeck, iii. 138 Fisher, notice of bishop, ii. 197 Fishergate, bar, York, i. 251 ; postern, ib. Fishlake, iii. 127 - Flamborough, ii. 309; church, ib. chapels, 310; Danish tower, 311; etymology, ib, lighthouse, ib. revenue of, 312 ; cliffs at, ib. caves at, 313; manor, 314; Danes dyke, ib. Flaxby, iii. 418 - . Fleming, notice of bishop, iii. 291 Flixton, ii. 315 Foggathorpe, ii. 234 Folkton, ii. 315 Forcett, iii. 513 Fordun, ii. 321 Fothergill, notice of Dr., iii. 358 Foston, iii. 482 - on-the-Wolds, ii. 315 Fountains abbey, iii. 373; sur- vey of the edifice, 375; chap- terhouse, ib. dimensions, ib. Foxholes, ii. 316 Fraisthorpe, ii. 309 Frank, notice of R., iii. 226 Fremington, iii. 515 Fridaythorpe, ii. 335 Frodingham, North, ii. 410 ——, South, ii. 460 Full Sutton, ii. 254 Fulneck, iii. 262 Furnival, family of De, iii. 7 Fylingdales, iii. 445 Drighlington, iii. 263; grammar school, 264; battle in 1642, ib. Dringhouses, i. 471 - - Druidical remains at Greenfield, iii. 278; at Norland, 251 ; at Rishworth, 252; at Stansfield, 254; at Rigton, 421; at Plumpton, 425. - Drypool, ii. 98; church, ib. citadel, 99; 426 Duffield, North, ii. 358 Duggleby, ii. 336 Duncombe park, iii. 471 Dunnington, ii. 348 Dunsforth, Low, iii. 410 Dunsley, iii. 443 Dunus Sinus, iii. 443 Durham, notices of the bishops of, ii. 362 • Eareby, iii. 344 Earls Heaton, iii. 294 Easby, iii. 516; abbey, ib. Easington, ii. 451, iii. 529 Easingwold, iii. 477; church, ib. chapels, ib. charities, 478 Fbbertson, iii. 460; Roman villa, 20. Ecclesall Byerlow, iii. 76 Ecclesfield, iii. 154; church, ib. priory, 155; mansions, ib. Ecclesiastical government of the county, i. 204 Edlington, iii. 129; manor, ib. church, ib. - Edstone, Great, iii. 475 Edward II. deposed and murder- ed, i. 44 - III. expense of his coro- nation, i. 44 - Edwin, romantic history of, i. 17; obtains the throne, 18; marries a christian princess, ib. re- nounces idolatry, ib. defeated and slain, 19 —— and Emma, story of, iii. 513 Egbert unites the heptarchy, i. 24 Eggleston abbey, iii. 514 Egton, iii. 530 Elizabeth, accession of, i. 71 Ella, the first king of Deira, i. 16 Elland, iii. 247; family of, ib. ce- lebrated feud, 248 Ellerburn, iii. 460 Ellerker, ii. 383 Ellerton, ii. 234; priory at, 235; abbey, iii. 503 Elloughton, ii. 219 Elsternwick, ii. 428 Elvington, ii. 348 Embsay, iii. 343 Emley, iii. 296 Erringden, iii. 249 Escrick, ii. 349; park, 350 Eshton hall, iii. 331 Eskdale side, iii. 443 Fske, ii. 204 Ganton, ii. 316; hall, ib. Garforth, iii. 381 . Gargrave, iii. 330; Roman villa, 331 - Garsdale, iii. 358 Garton, ii. 426 . on-the-Wolds, ii. 317 Gate Fulford, ii. 350 Gaveston, conspiracy against, i. 41; beheaded, ib. - Gee, monument to Sir W., i. 300 Gent, notice of, i. 391 i Geology of the North riding, i. 160; of the East riding, ió1; of the West riding, 162 * - Geta, murdered by Caracalla, i. 6 Gibson, inscription to J., i. 306 Giggleswick, iii. 349; grammar school, ib. scar, 350 - Gilling wapentake, iii. 508 ——, iii. 476; castle, ib. , iii. 518 , Gipseys’ springs, ii. 330 Gipton, ii. 561 i. Gisburn, ... iii. 351; park, 352; lodge, ib. forest, ib., manor, ib. Givendale, Great, ii. 254 Glaisdale, iii. 531 . - Goatland, iii. 463; cell, ib. curi- ous tenure, ib. . - ii. 236; temple, 237 Godmanham, i Golcar, iii. 270 - Goldsborough, iii. 418 Goole, iii. 231 Gordale scar, iii. 355 Goxhill, ii. 410 Goydon-pot hole, iii. 413 Grantley hall, iii. 373 Grassington, iii. 333 Greasborough, iii. 101 Green, notice of J., ii. 29 - Hamerton, iii. 427; hall, and charity, ib. - Greenfield, iii. 278 Greenhow hill, iii. 378 Greetland, iii. 249 Grendale priory, iii. 533 Gretabridge, iii. 517 - Grimbald crag, iii. 403 Grimston, iii. 314 Grimstone, North, ii. 335 Grindall, ii. 302 - Grindleton, iii. 357 Grinton, iii. 515 - Gromond abbey, iii. 530. Guisborough, iii. 528; monas- tery, ib, church, 529; grammar school, ib. Guisley, iii. 385 Gunby, ii. 234 Hackfall, iii. point, 414 Hackness, iii. 444; cell, hall, ib. - Hainaulters, quarrel between the . English and, i. 45 413; Mowbray 445 ; IND EX. 543 Halifax, iii. 284; market, ib. population, ib. etymology, 235; history, ib. manufactures, 236; Piece hall, 238; church, ib. mo- numents, 239; extent of parish, ib. Trinity church, ib. Christ church, 240; chapels, ib. chari- ties, ib, almshouses, ib. schools, ib, gaol, ib. grammar-school, ib. gibbet law, 241; eminent na- tives 246 • . . * Halikeld wapentake, iii. 493 Hallam, Upper, iii. 77 —, Nether, iii. 77 Halsham, ii. 453 Haltemprise, ii. 215; dissolution of the priory, 217 Halton, West, iii. 345, 356 Haltongill, iii. 344 Hampole, priory of, iii. 165 Hampsthwaite, iii. 411 Handsworth, iii. 145 Hang wapentake, iii. 495 Hanging Heaton, iii. 294 Hardraw force, iii. 501, Harewood, iii. 386; church, ib. monuments, 387; hall, ib. castle, 388 - - Harlsey, East, iii. 491; West, 537 Harpham, ii. 307; St. Quintin chapel, ib. . . . Harrington, notice of B. iii. 496 Harrogate, iii. 404; waters, ib. Tewit well, 405; sulphur wells, ib. Cheltenham spring, 406; chapels, ib. seats, 407 Harswell, ii. 239 - Harthill wapentake, ii. 205 —, iii. 135 . . . Hartop, notice of J. iii. 408 Hartshead, iii. 294 Haslewood hall,iii. 312; rich view, ib. - - . Hastings, mon, to lady, iii. 314 Hatfield, battle of, in 633, i. 19 , iii. 150; church, 151; monuments, ib. + — chase, iii. 147; history, 148; drainage ib. riots respect- ing, 149 - —, Great, ii. 413 , monument to Prince William de, i. 312 Haverah park, iii. 412 Hawes, iii. 503 Hawkesworth, notice of the Rev. T., ii. 506 *==ººm , iii. 392 Hawnby, iii. 491 Haworth, iii. 259 Hawsker, iii. 443 Hawxwell, West, iii. 504 . Haxby, tomb of, i. 299 Hayton, ii. 239 Hazlewood, iii. 343 Healaugh, i. 483; priory, 484 Heath hall, iii. 288 Hebble canal, iii. 286 Heckmondwike, iii. 265 Hedingley, ii. 525, 563; oak, 564 Hedon, ii. 417; hospital, 419; borough of, ib. church, ib. town hall, 421; ancient cross, ib. Hellifield, iii. 356 Helmsley, iii. 469; church, ib. —, Upper, iii. 481 — gate, iii. 480 Helperthorpe, ii. 335 Hemingbrough, ii. 351; manor, ib. church, ib. Hemsworth, iii. 319; hospital, ib. school, ib. Hengist, defeated and slain, i. 13 Henrietta, queen, visits Bridling- ton, ii. 297 - • Henry IV., conspiracy to depose, i. 49; standard of rebellion raised by Archbishop Scrope, 50; archbishop executed, ib. V. visits Beverley, ii. 125 VII. ascends the throne, i. 63; Simnel's insurrection, ib. VIII. visits the northern counties, i. 60 Heptonstall, iii. 249; grammar- school, ib. park, 250 Heslerton, East, ii. 336 —-, West, ii. 336 Heslington, ii. 354; hall, 355 Hessay, i. 486 Hessle, ii. 109; manor, ib. Hickleton, iii. 157 Hildenley, iii. 476 Hilston, ii. 427 Hilton, iii. 524 Hinderskelfe, iii. 485 Hinderwell, iii. 533 Hipperholme, iii. 250 Hodson, inscription to, i. 300 Holbeck, ii. 525, 547; new church, ib. Holderness, ii. 384; lords of, ib. ancient state of, 395; Roman stations, 397 Holdgate, i. 470 Hollym, ii. 454 Holme Beacon Div. Harthill wa- pentake, ii. 229 ——— on Spalding Moor, ii. 259; cell at, 240; beacon, 241 ; hall, ib. on the Wolds, ii. 263 Holmfirth, iii. 234 Holmpton, ii. 455 Holtby, iii. 481 Honley, iii. 272 Honorial hist. of this county, i.206 Hooton Pagnell, iii. 164 Roberts, iii. 134 Horbury, iii. 287 - Hore, inscription to, i. 301 Hornby, iii.498; castle, ib. Hornsea, ii 405; Mere,406 castle, ib. …” Horsforth, iii. 385 Horton, iii. 259 in Ribblesdale, iii. 353; grammar school, ib. Hotham, ii. 220 , Sir J., arrested by the mayor of Hull, i.88; executed on Tower hill, 89; monument to, ii. 219 - Hoveden, notice of R., ii. 378 Hovingham, iii. 475 Houghton hall, ii. 228 . Howden, ii. 369; church, 370 ; dissolution, 372; descrip. of the fabric, 373; monuments in, 376; dimensions of, 377; pa- lace, 378; chapels, ib. fair, ib. Howdenshire, ii. 361; lords of, 362 Howley hall, iii. 290 Howsham, ii. 341 Hoyland, Nether, iii. 169 —, High, iii. 320 Hubberholme, iii. 345 Huddersfield, iii. 266; etymology, ib. navigation ib. manufactures, 267; population, ib. antiqui- ties, ib. St. Peter's church, 268; Trinity church, ib. Paddock church, ib. St. Paul's church, 269; chapels, ib. charities, ib. markets, ib. Hudswell, iii. 498 Huggate, ii. 254 - Hull, visited by Edward III.i.46; Charles I. at, 82; attempts to gain possession of, 84; en- virons of the town inundated, 86; siege commenced, ib, aban- doned, 87; plot to surrender the town discovered, ib. re- besieged by the royalists, 89; defeated with great loss, 90; sortie from the town, 91; siege raised, ib, celebration of George IV. coronation at, 129; history," ii. 1; importance of Wyke, 5; constituted a free borough,7; visited by Edward I. ib. the De la Pole family, 8; charterhouse founded, 9; Suf- folk palace, ib. charters con- firmed, ; prosperity of, in 1689, 21; embankments, 22; walls erected, 24; municipal government, ib. early state of trade and commerce, 26; Greenland fishery, 31; amount of customs collected at this port, 32; old dock, 33; Humber dock, 37; junction dock, 40; Trinity church, 44; described, 51; monuments im, 56; St. Mary's church, 57; described, 59; Trinity house, 60; curious donations to it, 63; Robinson's hospital,66; Ferrie's hospital,ib. 544 IN DE X. grammar school, 67; Vicar's school, 68 ; charity school, ib. national school, 69 ; High street, ib. weigh house, 70; dispensary, ib. Blackfriar gate, 71; monastery, ib. Pilot office, ib. theatre, 72; market place, ib. equestrian statue, ib. Wat- son’s almshouse, 73; priory of White friars, ib. custom house, ib. charity hall, ib. public libra- ries, 74; manor hall, ib. mansion house, 76; exchange, ib. lite- rary and philosophical society, ib. Gregg's hosp. 77; Harri- son's hosp. ib. Radcliffe's hosp. ib. Gee's hosp. ib. Lister’s hospital, ib. Crowle's hospital, ib. Sculcoates, 78; Drypool, 98; Baptist chapels in, 99; Independents, 100 ; Catholic, ib. Friends, ib. Methodists, ib. Swedenborgian, 101; Unita- rian, ib. Synagogue, ib. Sunday schools, ib. courts of law, 102; population of, 103 Humber, river, i. 170 ; banks of, cut, 90 ; course altered, ii. 22 Humbledon, ii. 427 Hunmanby, ii. 317; etymology, 318; church, ib. vicarage, 320; manor, ib. hall, 321; chapels,ib. Hunsingore, iii, 418 ; manor, ib. Hunslet, ii. 526, 548 Hunsley Beacon 13iv. Harthill wapentake, ii. 205 Huntingdon, iii. 481 Hunton, iii. 496 Hurtiepot, iii. 347 Husthwaite, iii. 490 Hutton Bonville, iii. 535 Bushell, iii. 457 Cranswick, ii. 263 Low Cross, iii. 529 Conyers, iii. 536 Long Williers, iii. 517 Huttons Ambo, iii. 483 Idle, iii. 262; new church, ib. Ilkley, iii. 389; church, 390 Inglebert, notice of P., ii. 196 Ingleby Arnecliffe, iii. 525 - juxta Greenhow, iii. 527 Ingleton, iii. 346 Ingmanthorpe, iii. 420 Ingram, inscription to L., i. 306 , inscrip. to Sir W. i. 310 Isurium, iii. 408 Jackson, notice of J., iii. 475 Jefferies, Judge, at York, i. 110 Jenkins, notice of H. iii. 520; ap- pears at York on a trial, i. 106 Jennet's cave, iii. 355 Jerveaux abbey, iii. 506 Jews, dreadful persecution of in York, i. 37 Jones, Paul, visits the Yorkshire coast, i. 119; desperate en- gagement with, 120 Kayingham, ii. 455 Keighley, iii. 325; church, ib. Keldholme, iii. 473 Kelk, Little, ii. 322 Kellington, iii. 233 Kent, notice of W. ii. 296 Kettlewell, iii. 331 Kexby, ii. 360 Kilburn, iii. 491 ; abbey, ib. Kildale, iii. 526 - Kildwick, iii. 332; hall, ib. Kilham, ii. 322; grammar-school, ib. spring, ib. Killerby, iii. 497 Killingwold graves, ii. 211 Kilnsea, ii. 456; ancient cross formerly at, 421 Kilnsey Crag, iii. 329 Kilnwick, ii. 264 —, Percy, ii. 254 Kilvington, South, iii. 491 King's manor, i. 462 Kiplin, iii. 498 —— Coates races, ii. 267 Kippax, iii. 381; park, ib. Kirby Wharfe, iii. 314 Wiske, iii.521 Kirk Bram with, iii. 225 Deighton, iii. 420 — Ella, ii. 104 — Fenton, iii. 314 — Hamerton, iii. 421 — Heaton, iii. 275 — Levington, iii.525; castle, ib. Sandall, iii. 133; grammar- school, ib. — Smeeton, ii. 231 Kirkburn, ii. 264 Kirkburton, iii. 273 Kirkby, iii. 526 Fleetham, iii. 498 — Grindalyth, ii. 336 Knowle, iii. 492 in Malham dale, iii. 354 Malzeard,iii.412; castle,ib. on the Moor, iii. 493 – Moorside, iii. 472; manor, ib. Buckingham's house, ib. Misperton, iii. 460 Overblow, iii. 420 Ravensworth, iii. castle, 519 Sigston, iii. 536 South, iii. 230 Underdale, ii. 336 trade, ib. 518; Kirkdale, iii. 473; ancient dial, ib. fossil cave, ib. Kirkham, ii. 337; priory ib. list of priors, 338; remains of priory, ib. Kirkleatham, iii. 531; hospital,ib, Kirklees hall, iii. 295 Kirklington, iii. 494 Kirkstall abbey, ii. 566; history, 568; list of abbots, 578; de- scribed, 584; new church, 597- Kirton, notice of G., iii. 260 Knapton, i. 470 , ii. 347 - Knaresborough, iii. 395; etymo- logy, ib. borough, ib. manor, - ib. castle, 396; dungeon, 398; church, 399; monuments, 400; chapels, 40 l ; free-school, ib. sessions house, ib. bridges, ib. dropping well, ib. St. Robert's chap. 402; priory, ib. Knedlington, ii. 380 Knottingley, iii. 222; mills, 223 Knowsthorpe, ii. 563 Lad stone, iii. 252 Lamplugh, inscription to, i, 301 Lancaster, memoir of Thomas Earl of, iii. 205 Langbargh liberty, iii. 522 Langfield, iii. 251 Langley, monument to the hon. Mrs. i. 309 Langold hall, iii. 138 Langtoft, ii. 323; notice of Peter de, ib. - Langton, ii. 339 — Great, iii. 522 Lartington, iii. 514 Lascelles, family of, iii. 389 Lastingham, iii. 474 ; notice of J. Jackson, 475 Laughton-en-le-Morthen, iii. 136; church, ib. chapel, 137 Lawkland, iii. 349 Laysthorpe, iii. 469 . Laythorpe postern, York, i. 251 Layton, West, iii. 517 , inscription to, i. 307 Lead mines, iii. 333 hall, iii. 310 Leak, iii., 536 Leathley, iii. 421 Leavening, ii. 333 Leckonfield, iii. 220; manor, 221; castle, ib. z Ledsham, iii. 314 Ledstone hall, iii. 315 Leeds, ii. 469 ; etymology, 470; ancient state, ib., Domesday survey, 471 ; civil war, 472 : plague, 474 ; riots in, 475 : manufactures 476; population, 479; Aire and Calder naviga- tion, 481 ; Leeds and Liverpool canal, 482; Leeds and Selby railway, ib. incorporation of the borough,484; feudal rights, 485; court leet, ib. civil go- vernment, 486 ; manor, ib. St. Peter’s church, 495 ; described, 497; dimensions of, 500; mo- numents, 502 ; nonconformist divines, 504; St.John's church, IND EX. 545 506; Trinity church, 508; St. Paul’s church, 510; St. James's church, ib. Christ church, 511 ; St. Mary's church, 512; St. Mark’s church, ib. chapels in, 513; public charities, 515 ; re- pair of highways, 516; gram- mar-schools, 517 ; Jenkinson’s almshouse, 520; Harrison’s hospital, 521 ; Leighton’s cha- rity, 522; clergymen’s widows’ charity, 523 ; Potter's hospi- tal, ib. Milner's charity, 524; Baynes charity, ib. Briggate, 527 ; court house, 529; com- mercial buildings, 530; cloth hall, 531 ; philosophical hall, 533 ; literary and philosophical society, ib. infirmary, ib. baths, 534; Boar lane, ib. music hall, ib. library, 535 ; museum, ib. Swinegate, ib. castle, ib. Wel- lington bridge, 536; market, ib. the Calls, 537; Kirkgate, ib. house of recovery, ib. corn ex- change,ib.free grammar-school, 538 ; mational school, 539; Wade’s hall, 540; Sheepscar, 541 ; horse barracks, ib. Aire river, ib. theatre, 542 ; coal staith, ib. gas works, ib. emi- nent men, ib, battle near, in 655, i. 21 ; taken by the parliamen- tarians, 103; curious case of witchcraft, 125 * Leeming lane, iii. 493 Lendal tower, York, i. 253 Letwell, iii. 138 Leven, ii. 41 l ; canal, ib. Lewisham, iii. 461 Leyburn, iii. 505 Lindholme, iii. 152; hermitage, ib. Lindley, iii. 270 Lindrick, iii. 415 Linthwaite, iii. 272 Linton, iii. 333 Lissett, ii. 408 Liverpool canal, ii. 482 Liversedge, iii. 265 Liverton, iii. 531 Local divisions of Yorkshire, i. 2 Lockington, ii. 265 Lockwood, iii. 272 Lofthouse, iii. 533 Londesbrough, ii. 242 ; station of Delgovitia, ib. park, 248 Longwood, ii. 269 Lothbroc, story of, i. 26 Loversall, iii. 196 Lovetot, family of de, iii. 6 Lowthorpe, ii. 323 Lund, ii. 266 ; cross, ib. Luttons Ambo, ii. 844 Lythe, iii. 530 t Maiden tomb in Beverley minster, ii. 162 Malham, iii. 354; cove, ib. Maltby, iii. 120 VOL. III, Malton, New, iii. 464 ; history, ib. castle, 465; borough ib. churches, 466; chapels, ib. spring, ib. trade ib. , Old, iii. 466; priory, ib. grammar-school, 467 Manfield, iii. 517 Manningham, iii. 260 Manufactures and commerce of Yorkshire, i. 171 Mappleton, ii. 413 Marfleet, ii. 428 Market Weighton, ii. 229 Marr, iii. 166 Marrick, iii. 515 Marsden, iii. 269 Marsk, iii. 515; hall, ib. Marske, iii. 534 Marston Moor, battle of, i. 94 ; officers slain at, 97 Martin destroys the choir of York cathedral, i. 260 Marton, ii. 438 , iii. 482; monastery, ib. , iii. 524 —, iii. 333 , iii. 421 le Moor, iii. 493 Marston, Long, i. 485 ; field, ib. Marvel, notice of Andrew, ii., 466 Mary Queen of Scots confined at Sheffield, iii. 14 Marygate tower, i. 450 Masborough, iii.10.1; independent academy, 103 Masham, iii. 498 Mathew, monument to F. i. 305 Mayroyd, iii. 254 Meaux abbey, ii. 441 ; list of abbots, 444 Medley, mon, to Admiral, i. 309 Melbourn, ii. 256 Melsa, mon. of Sir J. de, ii. 424 Melsonby, iii. 514 Meltham, iii. 272 Melton on the Hill, iii. 166 Menwith, iii 412 Mercia invaded, i. 22 Metcalf, notice of J. iii. 403 Metham, ii. 386 Methley, iii. 296 ; church, tombs, ib., hall, 297 Mexborough, iii. 143 Micklegate ward, York, i. 324; bar, 248 . . * & battle- ib. Micklehow hill, Micklewaite grange, iii. 315 Middleham, iii. 503; castle, 50l Middlesburgh, iii. 524, 527 Middlesmoor, iii. 415 Middleton, iii. 461 * . upon-Leven, iii. 525 — Tyas, iii. 521 —- on the Wolds, ii. 266 Midgeley, iii. 251 Millington, ii. 255 Milner, notice of the Rev. J. ii. 57 Mineralogy of the North riding, 6 Z i. 160; of the East riding, 161 ; of the West riding, 162 Minstrels of Beverley, sculptures of, ii. 170 Mirfield, iii. 297 ; church, 298 Mithras, sculpture of, discovered in York, i. 237 Mitton, iii. 357 Molescroft, ii. 201 Monastic establishments, pressed, i. 66 Money, value of in 1314, i. 42 Monk ward, York, survey of, i. 376 ; bar, 250 — Bretton, iii. 322 Fryston, iii. 310 Moor Monkton, i. 486 Moravian establishment, iii. 262 More hall, iii. 56 Morle, iii. 289 Morley and Agbrigg wapentake, iii. 234 Mortham tower, iii. 514 Mulgrave castle, iii. 530 Multangular tower, York, i. 251 Murray, notice of L., i. 470 Murton, iii. 479 Muston, ii. 324 Myton, iii. 483 º: sup- Naburn, ii. 360 Nafferton, ii. 324; chapels, 325 Newby hall, iii. 376 Nesse, notice of the rev. C. ii. 505 Nevison’s leap, iii. 221 - . New mills, iii. 273 — Village, ii. 227 . Newbald, North, ii. 226 Newbiggin hall, iii. 530 Newbrough priory, iii. 490 Newhall, iii. 221 . —, iii. 394 Newholme, iii. 443 |Newland, iii. 298 Newton, iii. 359; school, ib. iii. 527 —— hall, iii. 416 Kyme, iii. 315 upon Derwent, ii. 257 upon Ouse, iii. 482 Nidd, iii. 416 INorland, iii. 251 Normanby, iii. 467 Normantom, iii. 298 North street postern, York, i. 251 Northallerton, iii. 535 ; castle, ib. priory, ib. battle of, i. 35 Northampton, battle of, 1460, i. 52 Northumbria reduced to an earl- dom, i. 29; earls of, 30; Copsi created earl by the conqueror,33 Northumbrians defeated, i. 17; Oswald ascends the throne of Northumbria, 20; Northum- brian monarchs, 23; regain their independence,25; revolt against William and are subdued, 33 Norton, ii. 339 * Conyers, iii. 495 *=rmº 546 INDEX. Nostal priory, iii.224 Nun Burnholme, ii. 255 Keeling, ii. 412; priory, ib. Monkton,iii.421; nunnery, ib Nunnington, iii. 468 Nunthorpe, iii. 596; nunnery, ib. Oak in Hallamshire, iii. 20 Od, ii. 400 Olicana, iii. 389 Ormesby, iii. 533 Osbaldwick, iii. 478 Osgoldcross wapentake, iii. 200 Osmotherley, iii. 537 Osmundthorpe, ii. 561 Ossett, iii. 294, Oswaldkirk, iii. 467 Otley, iii. 391 ; etymology, ib. church, ib. hospital, 392; Che- win, ib. Otterington, North, iii. 537 ——, South, iii. 492 Ottringham, ii. 459 Ovenden, iii. 252 Over Silton, iii. 492 Overton, iii. 480 Oulton, iii.299; new church,300 ; hall, ib. Ouram, iii. 252 Ouse river, i. 168 — and Humber, fishgarths re- moved in these rivers, i. 65 and Derwent wap. ii. 348 Ouseburn, Great, iii. 416 , Little, iii. 421 Out Newton, ii. 452 Owston, iii. 231 Owthorne, ii. 460 Palmer, inscription to, i. 300 Pannall, iii. 416 Parlington, iii. 379 Pateley bridge, iii. 372 Patrick Brompton, iii. 496 Patrington, ii. 446; church, ib. Paul, ii. 461 - Pearson, inscription to Dr. i. 309 Peckitt, monument to W. i. 332 Penda slays Oswald, i. 20 Penistone, iii. 320 Pennigant hill, iii. 353 Percy shrine, Beverley Minster, ii. 157; chapel, 159; notice of the family of, 160 Petuaria, ii. 397 Pickering, iii. 462 : church, ib. castle, 463 —- Lythe wap. iii. 446 Pickhill, iii. 494 Pilgrimage of grace, i. 66; they take Pontefract, York and Hull, 67; are dispersed, 68 Plumpton, iii. 424; druidical re- mains, 425 Pocklington, ii. 249 ; grammar school, 250; canal, 251 Pollington, iii. 232 Pontefract, Charles I.visits, i.80; James I. visits, 77; honour of, granted to the queen, ib. murder of Richard II. 49 ; siege of 100 ; breach made in the castle, 101 ; parliamenta- rians defeated and siege raised, 102; re-besieged, ib. Surren- dered, ib. castle surprised, ib. third siege commenced, ib. surrendered, 103 ; castle de- molished, ib. etymology, 201 ; market, 202; park, ib. repre- sentation, 208; corporation, ib. lords of Pontefract, 204 ; Richard II. murdered in, 207; archbishop Scrope executed, ib. civil war, 208; third siege, ib. castle destroyed, ib. site of, ib. description, ib. the keep, 210; plan of 211 ; All Saints church, 212 : St. Giles's church, 214 ; St. Clement's church, 215; St. Thomas’s church, ib. chapels, 216; priory, ib. Black friars, 217 ; Austin friars, ib. White friars, ib. St. Nicholas hospital, ib. lazar house, 218; Trinity hospital,ib. bead house, 219; Frank’s hospital, ib. Per- fect’s hospital, ib. grammar- school, ib. market cross, 220; town hall, 221 ; court-house, ib. park, 222 Poole, iii. 393 Poppleton land, i. 488 -— water, i. 487 Population of Yorkshire, i. 2, 221 Pottery Carr, iii. 195 $— Preston, ii. 428 A , Long, iii. 355 Pryme, notice of A. de la, iii. 15l f Pudsey, iii. 262; new church, ib. Pulleyn, inscription to Mr., i. 307 Quarmby, iii. 270 Rainsborough, death of, iii. 181 Raskelf, iii. 478 Rastrick, iii. 252 Ravensburgh, ii. 899; Baliol em- barks from, 401 ; Henry IV. lands at, 403; lighthouse built, 404; Edward IV. lands, ib. Ravensfield, iii. 144 Ravensperme, Henry Bolingbroke lands at, i. 49 Rawdon, iii. 386 Rawmarsh, iii. 164 Raynes, inscription to Mr., i. 309 Rebellion in the north, 1569, i. 71 ; royal forces march from York, ib. rebels dispersed, 72 Red house, i. 486 Redcar, iii. 534 Redmire, iii. 505 Reeth, iii. 515 Reeves, inscription to P. i. 310 Reighton, ii. 325 Ribstone hall, iii. 419 Riccal, ii. 355; prebendal manor house, 357 - Richard II. murdered, i. 49 - - III. usurps the throne, i. 60; rewards the citizens of York, 61 ; visits Scarborough, 62 ; is slain, ib. Trichardson, inscription to J.i.308 Richmond, iii. 508; castle, ib. church, 509; chapels, 510 ; Grey friars, ib. St. Martin’s monastery, ib. borough, ib. town-hall, 511 ; grammar- school, ib. charities, ib. St. Nicholas hospital, ib. Rievaulx abbey, iii. 470; dimen- sions of, 471 Rillington, ii. 339 Rilstone, iii. 330 Rimington, iii. 352 Rims weli, ii. 460 Ripley, iii. 422; church, ib. free- school, ib. castle, ib. Ripon taken by the parliamenta- rians, i. 103; etymology,iii. 361; historical notices, ib. ancient government, ib., spur manufac- ture, 364; borough, ib. mo- mastery, ib. minster, 365 ; stain- ed glass, 369 ; monuments, 370; jurisdiction of the church, ib. Trinity church, 371 ; chapels, ib, hospitals, ib. market, ib. town-hall, ib. grammar-school, 372; theatre, ib. Ripponden, i. 115; iii. 247; great flood, ib. Rise, ii. 413 Rishworth, iii. 252 Riston, Long, ii. 413 Robin Hood, notice of, iii. 295 --. Hood's bay, iii. 445 well, iii. 226 -- Lythe hole, ii. 313 Robinson, notice of bishop, iii. 320 Roach abbey, iii. 121 ; abbots, 124 Rochdale iii.276 Rockingham, death and funeral of the marquis of, i. 121 Rokeby, iii. 514; hall, ib. Romaldkirk, iii. 513 Roman altar discovered at York, i. 80 altar discovered at Greet- land, iii. 249 coins discovered at Bing- ley, iii. 385 º empire divided, i. l I monument in St. Martin's church, i. 332 remains discovered at Lingwell, iii. 288 —— roads, i. 6 Roman stations in Holderness, ii 397 villa at Gargrave, iii. 381 Roos, ii. 428 Rosedale, iii. 462 ; priory, ib. IND EX. 547 Rossington, iii. 197; gipsy’s tomb, 198 Rotherham, iii. 97; Jesus col- lege, 98 ; church, ib. monu- ments, 99; manor, ib. grammar- school, 100 ; dispensary, ib. bridge, ib. Rothwell, iii. 299 Rouncton, iii. 536 Roundhay, iii. 380 Rousby, iii. 534 Routh, ii. 414 Rowley, ii. 227 Royston, iii. 321 Rudby, iii. 524 Rudston, ii. 326; Rufforth, i. 488 Runswick, iii. 533 Ruston parva, ii. 327 Ruswarp, iii. 444 Rydale wapentake, iii. 464 Ryther, iii. 310 obelisk, ib. Saddleworth, iii. 276 St. John of Beverley,'memoir of, ii. ill ; relics of 139 — Martin’s abbey, iii. 510 — Mary’s abbey, York, i. 446; list of abbots, 450 ; arms, 452 ; church, 453 — Olave Marygate, iii. 485 — Peter’s liberty, i. 316 — Quintin, armorial bearings of the family of, ii. 307 Saltmarsh, ii. 380 Salton, iii. 479 Sancton, ii. 2S Sanctuary, right of, in Beverley minster, ii. 136 Sand Hutton, iii. 483 Sandall, Great, iii.301; castle, ib. Sandbeck, iii. 126 Savile, monument to Sir G. i. 307 Saunderson, notice of Dr. iii, 32 l Sawley, iii. 377 with Tosside, iii. 357 Saxons united to the Britons, i. 13; invade Britain, 14 Saxton, iii. 316 Scalby, iii. 458 Scampston, ii. 340 Scarborough visited by Richard III. i. 62 ; castle taken in 1553, 7 l ; besieged, 104 ; sur- rendered, ib. iii. 446; etymo- logy, ib. charter, 447 ; Leland’s account, ib. walls, 448; piers, ib. harhour, ib. port, 449; borough, ib. castle, 450; keep, 452 ; church, ib. new church, 453; chapels, ib. charities, ib. town-hall, 454 ; cliff bridge, ib. museum, ib. spa, ib. bathing, 455; population, 456 Scaws by Lees, pilgrimage of grace at, i. 67 Scawton, iii. 477 Scorbrough, ii. 267 Scots invade England, i. 42 ; re- treat, 46; re-invade, 92 Scott, notice of archbishop, iii. 97 Scotton, iii. 411 Scrayingham, ii. 340 Scruton, iii. 499 Sculcoates, ii. 78; new church, 79 ; St. John's church, 80 ; charter-house, 81; ordinances of the hospital, 89; infirmary, 94; manor, 95; mansion-house, ib. gas-works, ib. Wincomlee, ib. assembly- rooms, 96; water-works, ib. gaol, ib. botanic garden, 97; new church, ib. Scurr, murder of, ii. 552 Seamer, iii.457, 524; insurrection at, i. 70 Seaton Ross, ii. 244 Sedburg, iii. 357; school, ib. Selby, iii. 303; abbey, 304 ; church, 305; font, 306; cha- pels, ib. bridge, 307; cross, ib. railway, ii. 482 Sessay, iii. 536 Settle, iii. 350 Settrington, ii. 341; hall, ib. Severus hills, i. 5, 470 Shandy hall, iii. 489 - Sharp, notice of the Rev. T. ii. 506 Sharpe, notice of archbish. iii.258 Sheaf, river, iii. 3 Sheffield, iii. 1; enclosure, 4; woods of, ib. mineral produc- tions, 5 ; coal, ib. manors, 6 ; charter granted to, 8 ; civil war, 18; castle besieged, i. 104; surrendered to the king, iii. 19; castle destroyed, ib. i. 105 ; ma- nor dismantled, iii. 20; the town in 1615, 21 ; increase of trade, 22 ; navigation, 23 ; silver- plating discovered, 25; Brit- tannia metal discovered, ib. silk mill, ib. market-place im- proved, 27; population, 28 ; courts baron, 29; manufactures of, 31; i. 197; forges,iii.33; cut- lery, 37; grinders, 38 ; asthma, 39; optical instruments, 41 ; church, 43 ; sepulchral chapel, 45; Shrewsbury vault, 46; St. Paul’s church, 49 ; St. James's church,50; St.George’s church, 51; St. Philip's church, 52 ; St. Mary’s church, 53; chapels, 54; charitable institutions, 58; infirmary, ib. Shrewsbury hos- pital,59; town trust, 60; Hollis hosp. 61 ; boys’ charity school, ib. national school 62, ; town- hall, 64; cutlers' hall, ib. as- say office, 66; grammar-school, 67; markets, 68; fairs, 69 : assembly-rooms, ib. theatre, 70 ; music-hall, ib surgeons'-- hall, ib. gas, works, 71; water- church, ib. works, ib. barracks, ib. park, 73; lodge, ib. castle, 75 Sherburn,iii.316;gram.school,317 Sherburne, ii. 342 Sheriff Hutton, iii. 479; castle, i5. chapels, ib. princess Elizabeth confined there, i. 63 Shipley, iii. 260; new church, i5. Shipton, ii. 230 ; iii. 480. Shrewsbury, family of, iii. 9 Sigglesthorne, ii. 414 Silkstone, iii. 322 Silscoat house, iii. 287 Silsden, iii. 332 - Sinningthwaite, priory of, i. 474, Sinnington, iii. 461 Skeffling, ii. 461 Skeldergate postern, York, i. 251 Skellow grange, iii. 231 Skelton, iii. 377; 480; Skerne, ii. 268 Skidby, ii. 228 Skipsea, ii. 415; castle, ib. Skipton, iii. 334; manor, ib. cas- tle, 337; Surrendered to the parliamentarians and demo- lished, i. 105; church, iii. 339; grammar-school, ib. trade, 340 Skipwith, ii. 358 Skircoat, iii. 252 Skirlaw, South, ii. 438 i. Skirpenbeck, ii. 342 - Skyrack Wapentake, iii. 378 Slaidburn, iii. 359 Sledmere, ii. 342; mortuments in the church, ib. hall, 343 Sleights, iii. 443 Slingsby, iii. 467; manor and cas- tle, ib. Smeaton, notice of J., iii. 382 Smeeton, Great, iii. 522 Snainton, iii. 460 Snaith, iii. 231 Snape, iii. 500 Sneaton iii. 445 Soil of the North riding, i. 132; of the East riding, 134 ; of the West riding, 135 Sowerby,iii. 253; castle,ib. monu- ment to Archbp. Tillotson, ib. ———, iii. 489 Soyland, iii. 253 Spaldington, ii. 224 Speeton, ii. 302 Spennithorne, iii. 504 Spofforth, iii. 423; church, ib. Sproatley, ii. 429 Sprotborough, iii. 161 ; church,ib. monument, ib. hall, 162; cross, 163 Spurn Point, ii. 398, 456; light- houses, 457; revenue of, 459 Stainborough, iii. 323 Stainburn, iii. 421 Staincliffe and Ewcross wapen- take, iii. 324 Staincross wapentake, iii. 318 hall, 424; 548 IND EX. Stainforth, iii. 351 Stainley, South, iii. 416 Stainton, iii. 144 * iii. 524; dale, 459 - Stamford bridge, battle of, in 1066, i. 31; ii. 253 Stanley, iii. 287 Stannington, iii. 156 Stansfield, iii. 254 Stanwick St. John, iii. 518 Stapleton hall, iii. 329 Lºmº Stapylton, notice of the family of, iii. 483 Startforth, iii. 517 Staveley, iii. 416 Steeton, i. 482; iii. 333 Sterne, inscription to R., i. 306 . Stillingfleet, ii. 358 Stillington, iii. 480 Stittenham, iii. 480 Stockeld, iii. 425 Stockton, iii. 482 Stokesley, iii. 527; priory, ib. Stonegrave, iii. 469 Storkhill, ii. 202 Strafford, monument to the earl of, i. 302; iii. 170 Strafforth & Tickhill wap. iii. 1 Strensall, iii. 483 Strid, the, iii. 342 Studley Royal, iii. 377 Sunk island, ii. 462 Sutton, ii. 430 upon-Derwent, ii. 255 on the Forest, iii. 481 Swale river, i. 168; ten thousand persons baptized in, 19 Swanland, ii. 108 Swedish iron, iii. 32 Swillington, iii. 381 ; hall, ib. Swinburne, mon, to Dr., i. 310 Swine, ii. 431 ; monuments in, 434; priory of, 435 ; Roman encampment at, 437 Swinefleet, iii. 233 Swinton, iii. 169; hall, 499 Sykes, notice of Sir M. M., ii. 343 Tadcaster, iii. 310; church, 311; eminent natives, 312 Talbot, family of, iii. 9 Tanfield, West, iii.494; castle, ib. Tankersley, iii. 324 Tees river, i. 168 Temple Newsome, iii. 382 Terrick, bishop, ii. 380 , inscription to S., i. 307 Terrington, iii. 482 Thearne, ii. 204 Thellusson, notice of P., iii. 158; singular will, ib. Thirkleby, iii. 492 Thirsk, iii. 488; church, ib. Thixendale, ii. 346. Thompson, inscrip. to R., i. 311 Thong, Nether, iii. 272 Thoresby, notice of, ii. 542 Thorganby, ii. 359 - Thormanby, iii. 482 Thorn Gumbald, ii. 461 Thorne, iii. 104; manor, 105; church, ib. schools, ib. Thorner, iii. 381 Thornes, iii. 287 Thornhill, iii. 301; church, ib. tomb, 302; hall, ib. n Lees, radical meeting at, i. 127 , inscription to Mrs., i. 306 Thornton, ii. 256 , iii. 260 , iii. 344; manors, ib. , in Lonsdale, iii. 359; scar, ib. iii. 461 Steward, iii. 504 le-Street, iii. 535 , West, iii. 71 Watlass, iii. 499 Thorpe, iii. 328 Arch, i. 488 Bassett, ii. 344 hall, ii. 327 in-Balne,iii.128;chapel,ib. Salvin, iii. 141; curious font, ib. mon. 142; hall, ib. Threshfield, iii. 333 Thriberg, iii. 139 Thundercliffe grange, iii. 101 Thurnscoe, iii. 169 Thwing, ii. 327 Tickhill, iii. 82; castle, 88; church, 90; monuments, 93; priory, 95; hospital, 96 Tickton, ii. 203 Tillotson, notice of Archb.,iii. 253 Tipping, inscription to, i. 303 Tockwith, i. 475 Todd, notice of the Rev. R., ii.505 Todmorden, iii. 254 Todwick, iii. 140 Tong hall, iii. 265 Topcliffe, iii. 492 —, earl of Northumberland slain at, i. 64 Topham, notice of J., iii. 466 Torre, notice of J., iii. 211 Tosto invades Yorkshire, i. 31 ; is defeated and slain, ib. Towton, iii.316; battle of, in 1461, i. 55; site of, 56 Treeton, iii. 140 Tunstall, ii. 440 Ugglebarnby, ii. 444 Ulphus’ horn, i. 287 Ulrome, ii. 415 Upleatham, iii. 531 Ure river, i. 168 Waddington, iii. 357; hospital, ib. Wadworth, iii. 146; church, ib. Wakefield green, battle of, i. 53 —iii. 278; population, ib. etymology, ib. Leland's survey, 279; manor, 280; battle of, 282; church, ib. St. John's church, 283; chapels, 284; grammar-school, ib. lunatic asylum, ib., dispensary, 285; courthouse,ib. public buildings, ib. Tammy hall, ib. house of correction, ib. bridge chapel, ib, Heselden hall,286; Hebble canal, ib. - Waldby, ii. 227 Wales, iii. 140; church ib. , notice of the Rev. E., ii. gºs 505 Walker, notice of S., iii. 102 Walkingham hill, iii. 426 Walkington, ii. 229 Wallerthwaite, iii. 210 Walls of York repaired, i. 245; present state, ib. Walmgate ward, York, survey of, i. 341; bar, York, 250 Walton, i. 489 Wanton, inscription to, i. 301 Warley, iii. 254 Warmfield, iii. 288 Warmsworth, iii. 146, hall, 147 Warter, ii. 248; priory, ib, hall, ib. Warthill, iii. 484 Warton, inscription to R. i. 31? Wassand, ii. 415 Wath, iii. 495 Wath-upon-Dearne, iii. 169 Watton, ii. 268; nunnery, ib. abbey, 269 Wawn, ii. 440 Weathercoat cave, iii. 346 Weaverthorpe, ii. 344 Welbury, iii. 493 Well, iii. 500 Welton, ii. 381; house, 382; beautiful dale, 383 Welwick, ii. 464 Wensley iii. 504 Wentworth, iii. 170; chapel and monuments, ib. house, 171; mausoleum, 172 — castle, iii. 323 ——, monument to the Hon. T. i. 303 Westerdale, iii. 534 Weston, iii. 426; hall, ib. Westow, ii. 345 Wetwang, ii. 345 Wetherby, iii. 425; St. Helens- ford, 426 Wharncliffe lodge, iii. 324 Wharnside, iii, 346 Wharram Percy, ii. 346 — le-Street, ii. 346 Wheldrake, ii. 360 Whenby, iii. 484 Whiston, iii. 145 Whitby Strand liberty, iii. 429 iii. 429; history and com- merce, ib. alum works, 431; harbour improved, ib. exports, 432; ship building, 433; po- pulation, ib. port, ib. piers, I N D E X. 549 435 ; , batteries 436; church, ib. abbey, 437 : eminent men, 438 ; romantic legend, ib. monastery dissolved, 440; di- mensions of the abbey, ib. described, 441; chapels, ib. charities, ib. schools 442; mu- seum, ib. town hall, ib. seats, ib. Whitgift, iii. 232 Whitkirk, iii. 382 Whitley hall, iii. 275 Whitwell, iii. 484 Whixley, iii. 427 Whorlton, iii. 526; castle, ib. Wickersley, iii. 135 Wickham, inscription to A., i. 310 Wiggington, iii. 485 Wigglesworth, iii. 356 Wighill, i. 490 Wike, iii. 265 Wilberfoss, ii. 256; nunnery, 257 Wilkinson, mon, to Tate, i. 361 Willerby, ii. 329 William III., statue of, ii. 72 Wilsick, iii. 96 - Wilson, notice of J. iii. 156 , notice of Mr. iii. 345 Wilton, iii. 532; castle, ib. Heacon Div. Harthill wapentake, ii. 249 Winestead, ii. 464; manor, 466 Winksley, iii. 378 Winmore, iii. 381 Winteredge house, iii. 250 Winterwell hall, iii. 340 Wintringham, ii. 346 Wistow, iii. 10 Witham, inscription to, i. 300 Withernsea, ii. 454 - Withernwick, ii. 416 Witton, East, iii. 506 , West, iii. 507 Wold cottage, ii. 328; extraordi- nary stone, ib. Newton, ii. 330; Gipseys,ib. Womersley, iii. 233 Woodhouse hall, iii. 253 Woodinansey, ii. 203 Woodsome, iii. 271 Wooldale, iii. 274 Woollen manufacture, history of, i.178; official value of,188; ii 476 Woolley, iii. 322 Worsbrough, iii. 158 Wortley, ii. 526, 551 —, iii. 324; hall, ib. Wragby, iii. 223 Wray, notice of Dr. iii. 345 Wressle, ii. 244; castle, ib. Wycliffe, iii. 519; notice of the Reformer, ib. Wykeham, iii. 458 Yapham, ii. 251 Yarm, iii. 522; floods, ib. church, 523 ; grammar-school, ib. hos- pital, ib. Yeadon priory, iii. 386 WOL. III, Yeddingham,ii.347; monastery, ib. Yordas cave, iii. 359 Yoresmill, iii. 501 York, monument . of a Romau standard-bearer found, i. 12; surrenders to Ambrosius, 13; besieged by Arthur, 14; sur- rendered, ib. cruelty of the Danes, 27; return under An- laff, 28; besieged by William, 33; nobly defended by Wal- theof, 34; garrison massacred, 35; besieged by the Scots, ib. first parliament held in, 36; massacre of the Jews, 37; con- vention between the English and Scotch kings, 39; meeting between Henry and Alexander, 40; Edward I. summons a par- liament at, ib. suburbs burnt by the Scotch, 43; Philippa married to Edward III. 46 ; Bruce advances to York, 47; Richard II. grants charters to, 48; pestilence in, ib. consti- tuted a distinct county, ib. tournament in, 51 ; visit of the Princess Margaret, 6 ; printing introduced, 65; body of James IV. exposed to view at, ib. visited by Henry VIII. 69; established a president and council at, ib. sweating sickness rages, 70; union of the churches in, 72 ; James I. enters this city,73; the queen and the princesses visit, 76; plague rages at,77; severe frost, 1607, ib. James I. again visits this city, ib. renewal of the charter, 1631, 79; Charles I. visits, ib. Roman altar discovered at, 80; army levied at, 81; council of peers at, 83; be- sieged by the parliamentarians, 92; Rupert advances to the re- lief of, 94; the siege raised, ib. negotiations for the surren- der of, 98; royal army eva- cuates, 100; Cromwell visits it, 106; high wind at, 107; Charles II. proclaimed at, ib. Crom- well and Bradshaw burnt in ef- figy, 108; James II. visits the city, 109; charters of seized,110; restored, ib. first lighted, 111 ; the mayor of displaced, ib. guard-house at, seized for the Prince of Orange, 114; William III. proclaimed at, ib. flood, 115; mint established in, ib. duke of Cumberland visits, 116; Highland rebels tried and exe- cuted at, ib. the duke of York visits, 117; visit of the king of Denmark, 118; hurricane at, ib. prince of Wales visits, 122; visit of C. J. Fox, 123; visit of *- 7 A Earl St. Vincent, 124; ce- lebration of the jubilee, 125; peace in 1813, 126; situation of, 225; etymology, ib. Roman period of, 226; early history, 227 ; temples in, ib. fire in 1137, ib. Domesday survey of, 228; civil government,233; arms of, 234; seal of, ib. Roman an- tiquities discovered, 235; walls, gates, and posterns of 245; Micklegate bar, 248; Bootham bar,249; Monk bar, 250; Walm- gate bar, ib. posterns, 251 ; multangular tower, 252; chris- tianity first introduced, 254 York, cathedral close, i. 313; new deanery, 314; residentiary, 315; St. Sepulchre's chapel, ib. Peter prison, 316; St. Peter's liberty, ib. St. Michael le Bel- fry church, 317; grammar. school, 319; treasurer's house, ib, register office, ib. deanery, 320 ; Deans of York, ib. St. William's college, 322; the Beddern, ib. Micklegate ward, 324; Holy Trinity priory, ib. Trinity church, 326; St. Mary Bishophill the Younger church, 328; Dodsworth's free-school, 329; Duke's hall, ib. St. Mary Bishophill the Elder church, ib. new gaol, 330; Baile hill, 331; Skeldergate, ib. Middleton hospital, ib. Albion chapel, ib. St. Martin's church, ib. Butter stand, 333; new house of cor- rection, ih. Hewley's hospital, 334; Friars' garden, ib. All Saints church, ib. St. John's church, 336; Ouse bridge, 337; re-built, 339; Walmgate ward, 341 : Friars minors, ib. Augus- time Friars, 342; Franciscan Friars, 343; Dodsworth’s school, ib. Quakers' meeting-house, ib. Castlegate, 344; Thompson's liospital, ib. St. Mary's church, ib. York castle, 346; County hall, 347; Clifford’s tower, 351 ; Nessgate, 356; Spurrier gate, 357; St. Michael's church, ib. High Ousegate, 358; pavement, 359; Market, ib. Cross, ib. All Saints church, ib. St. Crux church, 361 ; Fossgate, 364; Merchants’ hall, ib. Trinity hospital, 365; site of St. Clement’s church, 366; Foss bridge, ib. Wilson's hos- pital, 366; Walmgate, ib. St. Jyonis church, ib. Percy's inn, 369; Maison Dieu, 370; Haberdasher's hall, 371 ; Wat- ter's hospital, ib. effigy of a crusader, ill. Wesleyan chapel, 372 ; site of St. George's 550 IN DEX. church, ib. Winterskelf's hos- pital, 373; St. Margaret's church, ib. ancient porch, 874; Monkward, 376; Whipmap- hopmagate, ib. White Friars, ib. Mason's hospital, 379; St. Saviour's gate, ib. St. Sa- viour's church, ib. Hungate, 381; Unitarian chapel, ib. Peaseholme green, 382; Wool market, ib. Leather fair, ib. St. Cuthbert’s church, ib. St. Anthony’s hall, 385; Blue-coat school, ib. Merchant Tailors’ hall, 386; St. Helen's church, ib. grammar-school, 387 ; Good- ramgate, 388 ; Holy Trinity church, ib. Petergate, 391 ; Christ church, ib. shambles, 393; Jubbergate, ib. Newgate, 394 ; Swinegate, ib. St. Samp- son's church, ib. Thursday market, 396 ; Feasegate, 397 ; Hootham ward, 398; Davy gate, ib Davy hall, ib. dispen- sary, 400; Wesleyan chapel, ib. Coney street, ib. St. Martin’s church, 401 ; Mansion house, 404; Guildhall, 406; Lendall, 408; York library, ib. Judge’s lodgings, ib. Independent cha- pel, 409 ; Water-works, ib. St. Leonard’s hospital, 410; theatre, 413; Blake street, ib. Assembly rooms, ib. Concert room, 415 ; Roman Catholic chapel, 416 ; St.Helen's church, ib. Grape lane, 418; Baptist and Sandemanian chapels, ib. liberties of the city of, 419 ; St. Thomas's hospital, ib. Beggargate lane, 421; Cle- mentthorpe, ib. Nunnery, 422; Barstow's hospital, 423; St. Catherine's hospital, ib. Ty- burn, 424; Hob moor, ib. race course, ib. New walk, 426; St. George's close, ib. Castle mills, ib. St. Andrew’s priory, 427; Fishergate, ib. All Saints church, 428; Cattle market ib. Retreat, 429; Roman road, 431; St. Lawrence’s church, ib. Dodsworth's school, 433; St. Nicholas’ church, ib. Layer- thorpe, 434; Jewbury, ib. Monkgate, 435 ; St. Maurice’s church, ib. Barker hill, 436; Mlanchester college, ib. County hospital, ib. Agar's hospital, 438 ; Grey-coat school, ib. Gas works, ib. Horse fair, 439; Thurstan, ib. Bootham, 440; Mary gate, ib. Old Maids’ hospital, ib. Lunatic asylum, 441 ; Ingram's hospital, 444; St. Mary’s abbey, 446; Museum, 461; King's manor, 462; Ainstey of York, 466; the Cathedral, i. 254; notices of the foundation of, ib. burnt by the Danes, 256; Archbishop Roger rebuilds it, ib. Arch- bishop Melton builds the wes- tern towers, 257; Archbishop Skirlaw rebuilds central tower, 258; erection of chapter-house, ib. repaved, 259; richly glazed with stained glass, ib. musical festivals,260; destruction of the choir by fire, in 1829, ib., ex- tent of injury, 263; trial of the incendiary, 267; repairs of com- menced, 268; survey of, 275; plan, ib. west front, ib. north side, 277 ; transept, ib, choir, 278; east end, ib. south side, 279; tower, 280; interior, ib. nave, ib. aisles, 28 l ; transept, 282; choir screen, 283 ; organ, 284; choir, 285; stalls, 286; altar screen, ib. lady chapel, 287; relics, ib, crypt, 289; chapter house, 290; stained glass, 292; tablet of benefac- tors, 295; dimensions of, 296 ; chronological table of dates of erection, 297; monuments in,298 York, archbishops of, Paulinus, i. 269 ; Ceadda, ib. Wilfrid, ib. Bosa, ib. St. John of Bever- ley, ib. Wilfrid, ib. Egbert, ib. Albert, ib. Eanbald, ib. Wul- sius,ib. Wimundus,ib. Wilferus, ib. Ethelbald, ib. Redwardus, i5, Oskitell, 270; Athelwold, ib. Oswald, ib. Aldulfe, ib. Wulstan, ib. Alfric, ib. Kin- sius, ib. Aldred, ib. Thomas, ib. Gerard, ib. Thomas, ib. William, ib. Murdac, ib. Roger, ib. tomb of, 299; Plantagenet, 270; Gray, 271 ; tomb of, 298; Bovil, 271; Kinton, ib. tomb of, 298; Gifford, 271; Wickwane, ib. Romayne, ib. Newark, ib. Cor- bridge, ib. Grenfield, ib. tomb of,299; Melton, 271; Zouch, ib. Thoresby, ib. Neville, ib. Arun- dell, ib. Waldby, ib. Scrope, 272; bowl of,288; tomb of, 305; Bowett, 272; tomb of, 304; Kempe, 272; W. Boothe, ib. Neville, ib. L. Boothe, ib. THE END. Rotherham, ib. tomb of, 305; Savage, 272; tomb of, 311; Baynbridge, 272; Wolsey, ib. Lee, ib. Holgate, ib. Heath,273; Young, ib. Grindall, ib. Sandys, ib. Piers, ib. monument of,303; Hutton, 273; tomb of, 300 ; Mathew, 273; monument to, 305; Montaigue, 273 ; Hars- nett, ib. Neill, ib. Williams, ib. Frewen, ib. monument to, 305; Sterne, 273; monument of, 306; Dolben,274; monument of, 301; Lamplugh, 274; tomb of, 301; Sharpe, 274 ; monument to,304 ; Dawes, 274; Blackburn, ib. Herring, ib. Hutton, ib. Gil- bert, ib. Drummond, ib. Mark- ham, ib. Vernon, ib. York, duke of, returns from Ire- land, i. 53; slain, and his army defeated, 54; Edward, his son, proclaimed king, ib. visits York, 58 ; deserted by War- wick, ib. defeated, and escapes to the continent, 59; returns, and lands at Ravenspurne, 60 ; swears fealty to Henry, ib. visits York as Edward IV., ib. , historic notices of the dukes of, i. 207 and Lancaster, commence- mencement of the wars be- tween the houses of, i. 52 Yorkshire, situation, i. 1; extent, 2; local divisions, ib. popula- tion, ib. etymology, ib. early history, ib. Roman roads, 6; abandoned by the Romans, 12 ; state of the country during the Saxon heptarchy, 16; Tosto's descent on, 31; soil of, 132; agriculture of, 136; climate, 151; general appearance of, 153; mineralogy and geology, 160; rivers of, 168; manufactures and commerce of, 171; origin of in, 174 ; ecclesiastical go- vernment of, 204; civil govern- ment of, 205 ; honorial history, 206; population enumeration, 221 ; possessors of, in the time of William I., 222; insurrection in 1663, 109 : loyalty of, on the landing of the pretender, 116 ; riots in 1757, 117 ; armed association in 1782, 120; distress and riots in 1817, 126 -— Philosophical society, i. 455 -—, people of, refuse to pay taxes, i. 64. e R. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD-STREET-HILL, cHEAPside. 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