L E T T E R,
containING IMPORTANT PARTICULARs, ADDRESSED To
THE PUBLISHER, BY THE AUTHOR, AND RECEIVED
AFTER THIS EDITION OF THE WORK HAD PASSED
THROUGH THE PRESS.
Port Talbot, Upper Canada,
March 21st, 1832.
To M.R. WILson.
SIR,-Your letter with Mr. Smith's, came to hand
only last evening; there must have been some unwar-
rantable delay from its length of time in coming.
Without further delay, therefore, I hasten to give you
the required information, as far as a letter will permit;
and I am happy to say that the prospects of the emi-
grant here now, were never more cheering. 49,700
landed last season at Quebec only, and double that
number is expected this season; and though a few of
them passed through to their friends in the States, a
greater number came into the province by way of New
York, as did numbers from the States, who had pre-
viously settled there. These latter, in general, make
some of the most loyal subjects; although the greater
part of them, on going into the States, were democra-
tically inclined, they soon became disgusted with the
ignorance and vanity, indeed I might say knavery, of
the common people in the States, and the contempt
all other country people meet with, from their fancied
inferiority.
A great number of people of intelligence and pro-
perty came into the province, from home, last season:
those that are not farmers, generally invest their capital
in grist and saw-mills; breweries (which are fast in-
creasing throughout the province, partly caused by the
preference for beer, and partly by the “Temperance
X LETTER FROM THE AUTHOR,
Societies,” which prohibit the use of ardent spirits, as
far as their influence extends); furnaces, and iron
foundries, which are erecting in all sections of the
country, as there is plenty of iron ore in every district,
and particularly the western ones; small factories,
stores, trading, &c., which give new life and impulse to
industry; raising the price of produce, &c., rapidly;
improving the circumstances and comforts of the set-
tlers, which is evident by their better personal appear-
ance, as to dress, &c.; by new frame and brick houses,
and other buildings rising up everywhere, and by an
evident advance in polite manners.
Grain bears a better, and a cash price; wheat, 3s.6d.
to 4s. 6d. per bushel. Land increases in value, in some
instances more than double. The Canada Company
have raised the price of their lands in some districts.
Several new steam boats, built and building; harbours
and canals making; new post-routes establishing; the
Welland Canal is partially opened, and the Rideau is
to be opened this season, when vessels can come from
the ocean to the upper large lakes. Some rail-roads
in contemplation. New roads in all parts, or old ones
improving, chiefly by grants of money from the legis-
lature. New towns and villages springing up; churches
and meeting-houses erecting in every direction; a col-
lege in full operation in York; some superior schools
established, and about to be general throughout the
province. The land that was originally set apart for
clergy, is to be appropriated for that purpose by the
legislature next session, by permission of the home
government; and other appropriations, it is supposed,
are to be made to the clergy in lieu thereof. School-
masters of a superior order will consequently be in
request. A new bank just established at Kingston,
and branches of it in various other places; eight or
ten new newspapers, four or five in the western dis-
tricts; agricultural societies in every part, which import
from the States and home, superior breeds of cattle,
horses, &c. All these within a few months, sufficiently
indicate a prosperous state of the country.
LETTER FROM THE AUTHOR, xi
A considerable number of the Chelsea pensioners
came in last season; one or two townships entirely
settled by them, and they are in general well satisfied.
The other day I saw a loyal address from one of these
townships, expressive of their prosperity, and satisfac-
tion at the general measures of the government, &c.
These addresses are general throughout the province,
passed at district and township meetings, convened for
the purpose—called forth by the attempt at excitement
and disaffection of a few demagogues, to serve their
own sinister purposes, and whose aim is to subvert
the British Constitution, by instilling their democratic
principles. They at first, by their sophistry, led away
some well-meaning, weak people; but now their design
is seen through and exposed, and the consequence is,
a general burst of loyal feeling, by the addresses, &c.
before mentioned. This party, a few years ago, com-
plained that the British government was indifferent to
their prosperity, by not settling the province; but,
Proteus like, they now censure it for “swarming the
European paupers ” into the country—forgetting that
nine out of every ten of themselves, when they came
hither, were as poor as the poorest of these “paupers,”
as they call the emigrants. But the agitators only fear
the Superior loyalty of these emigrants, over some that
come in from the States; which they well know will
destroy their hopes—but their day is already over !
Society also, is getting much more respectable, by
the advantageous change of circumstances, and by the
number of respectable emigrants from home, great part
of which are retired and half-pay officers of the army.
One of the grievances of the above “grievance-
mongers,” is the allowing the importation of Ame-
rican produce into the province free of duty, to be
shipped in British vessels for home, thus encouraging
British shipping. Whether this be true or not, it
shews, unequivocally, the superiority of Canada over
the States for a market; and at the same time, they
have not one-third of the taxes to pay they have in
the States, and purchase manufactures without duties;


xii LETTER TO THE AUTHOR,
while the others pay from 30 to 50 per cent. In short
I may say, this province, probably, with the exception
of Lower Canada, pays less taxes than any country in
the world; and there is no part of the world, I believe,
that is more prosperous, and rapidly increasing, than
Upper Canada, at the present time.
I will now make a few remarks on fitting out for the
voyage, &c.—Emigrants are brought out to Quebec for
much less now than a few years ago, from 21 to 21. 10s.,
or 3!, and sometimes less; while to New York it is
from 31 to 5l. The reason is obvious; vessels go out
to the former, generally, in ballast, such vast numbers
going, and no limit in tonnage; while to New York
there is a proper limit, and heavy penalties when it is
exceeded. This is a real “grievance,” and a gross
neglect of the authorities at home—to suffer the avarice
of ship owners and captains to crowd their vessels
to suffocation, as it is the death of some, and cause of
much illness every season. They have passed a law at
Quebec, this winter, to levy a dollar a-head on every
adult, children something less, to support hospitals
for the sick on landing in Quebec; rendered necessary
by passengers being crowded too thick on board the
ships. A dollar each is paid at New York for the same
purpose.
Emigrants, on arrival at Liverpool, should engage
private lodgings for a few days, near the docks, while
they look out a proper vessel, according to former
directions. Inquire of the captain, mate, and some of
the most respectable of the sailors; from them all, a
pretty true estimate of the truth respecting the time of
sailing—the number they intend to carry—what water
will be allowed (a gallon per head, per day, should be
allowed, but half a gallon will suffice, but not less)—
what grates for cooking; should be two, besides the one
for sailors—choose a fast-sailing vessel; sails and rig-
ging good, and high between decks; berths near the
hind hatchway, for fresh air, and the least motion of
the vessel; size of the vessel not of so much conse-
quence, but largest generally preferred. Never listen to
LETTER FROM THE AUTHOR, xiii
or bargain with, any of the owners of runners that are
employed by the offices, which are paid a per centage
on all the gulls they can catch; and emigrants will be
dogged by them in every street. The principles of
these offices, I am, in justice, for a warning, compelled
to say, I found to be knavery and trickery of various
kinds, which are a disgrace to the country, and shew a
negligence in the authorities in suffering such shameful
practices. Hardly an emigrant escapes them. They
will engage any number for any particular vessel, and
then one-half, perhaps, have to wait for other vessels;
so that the emigrant's means are often exhausted before
he can sail. These agents also keep provisions, &c., to
supply passengers, and make exorbitant charges for
very inferior articles, and put on them much more in
quantity than is necessary. The best house for supplies
I found in Liverpool, where almost every thing neces-
sary was to be procured; it is the north corner, at the
top of Denison-street, I forget the name. It is a gro-
cery shop and bakehouse; the proprietor is a most
obliging and honourable man. Emigrants, when they
leave home, must have their eyes open, as they will
meet with sharpers in every direction, practising on
their credulity, offering the best lodgings, provisions,
&c. &c.; but let every one examine for himself.
Sovereigns are the best money to carry out; Spanish
dollars, at 2s. 2d, or 2s. 2; d. each, the next ; the first
generally bearing a premium of eight or ten per cent.,
or are worth about four and # dollars here. A friend of
mine, on coming out last season, was persuaded by the
money-changers, to purchase doubloons, at 21, 12s.,
instead of sovereigns; the consequence was, he with
great difficulty made his money again; while had he
brought out sovereigns or dollars, they would have more
than paid all his expenses, by the premium. Another
emigrant who came out with me, had been supplied
with pistareens, or French shillings, for quarter-dollar
pieces, by one Galinda, a money-changer, the latter
being 25 cents each, and the other only 16 cents,
I wish here to correct an erroneous opinion I formed
xiv. LETTER FROM THE AUTHOR,
in my previous voyage, respecting the cause of the
sparkling appearance of the sea-water at night; as
since I have had the opportunity of ascertaining the
real cause. It arises from an unctuous phosphorical
kind of slime, or sperm, ejected by an animal of a
transparent, greenish, and, in some instances, bluish,
colour; of various sizes, from a small egg to the size
of a turnip. Its substance is of the consistence and
appearance of frog-spawn. I caught several, in a calm;
and on putting them into water in the evening, and
stirring them sharply, the slime was ejected, and the
luminous sparks appeared. By rubbing the matter on
the finger, it was evidently poisonously corrosive, by
the smarting it caused.
By my recent experience I find the following a pre-
ferable INVENToRY OF PRovisions for EACH ADULT:—
10 lbs, best biscuit } Kept dr
4 lbs. toasted bread ept dry.
14 lbs. flour.—Flour is better than much biscuit, as
pudding and fresh baked cakes can be eaten
when the other is not palatable through sickness.
7 lbs. rice, for puddings.
4 lbs. oatmeal, for thick and thin gruel.
7 lbs. sugar, and 5 lbs. of butter.
4 lbs. raisins and currents (half each).
2 lbs. cheese 3 lb. tea, 3 lb. coffee, of best quality,
12 lbs. ham or it cannot be used in sickness,
and often then it is disagreeable.
4 lbs. dry fat bacon, to fry pancakes, and with eggs.
3 or 4 lbs. beef, roasted well on shore, to begin with.
2 or 3 lbs. lean beef, chopped fine, with pepper, &c.
potted close—a spoonful in boiling water, with
bit of onion, &c., makes good broth.
1} doz. best Dutch herrings.
2 doz. eggs—packed in salt, small ends down.
Boiled milk or cream, put 2 lbs. of loaf sugar into it
when half cooled, and then bottle it; if put in boiling,
it will curdle it.
Vinegar, &c., &c., as before; porter as before;—for
“preserved lemons,” it should have been preserves
LETTER FROM THE AUTHO P. XV
and lemons. Potatoes as before. Every thing should
be of the best quality; and other things as before.* I
have not stated price, not thinking it necessary.
Each family should have frying-pan, two tin baking-
dishes, tea kettle, large or small pot, and other neces-
sary cooking and eating utensils—if young children, a
lanthorn will be necessary. Some opening medicine
ought to be taken, such as aloetic pills, rhubarb, &c.;
for fever, nitre, &c. Clothes, beds, and bedding, should
be brought with families, but no household furniture, or
heavy articles will answer, except a clock.
I have thus given all that occurs to my mind, at
present, worth noticing; and I remain, Sir,
Yours respectfully,
Joseph PICKERING,
P.S.—When in Liverpool last spring, coming out, I
saw several farmers, who came down with emigrants,
to ship them off on the parish account. Some supplied
them liberally, and allowed them 4l.; others 3!. a-head
after landing, which is little enough; others again,
hardly allowed them a shilling, which is disgraceful, as
on landing they become less or more, according to
health or sickness, dependent on charity, and a heavy
tax on the inhabitants of Quebec. In New York they
will not let them land, if they have not money suffi-
cient to carry them up into the country.
*** Letters to Canada, it appears, require a period
of three months before they reach the parties; but an
answer reaches England in six or eight weeks.
See estimate, page 192.
THE AUTHoR's DIRECTIONs To A FRIEND About
To join IIIM IN CANADA,
AFTER referring him to the printed directions for his
guidance, he tells him, -
“On arriving at Liverpool, to come by way of New
York; as ships bound for that port are less crowded,
and the passage is more pleasant. From New York,
to take steam-boat for Albany: the fare, one dollar
each, children half-price. If a number should be going
at the same time, three quarters of a dollar each, and
sometimes even less; but in such case be sure to have
a written agreement. From Albany take a canal line-
boat, and choose either the Pilot, Hudson, Washington,
or Erie lines, which are the most respectable. If you
stop a night or two at Albany, go to Mr. Van Horn's
grocery-store, about the third door on the pier; but as
boats are going every morning, it is unnecessary to stop
at all. Along the canal, to Lockport, 266 miles, at one
cent. each per mile ; the passage takes five or six days.
They will sometimes ask more, but often take less—
however, every one must look well to themselves in all
these matters, from the moment they leave home.
Provisions can be had on board these boats, at about
ninepence sterling per meal, or eighteen cents, but
families can purchase food any where along the canal,
and cook it themselves on board, which is more econo-
mical. From Lockport by Young's-town, opposite to
Niagara, or Lake Ontario, is twenty-one miles; the hire
of a wagon for women, children, and luggage, is three
dollars. Then cross the Niagara river, and the Canada
steam-boat comes daily to York, passage one dollar each.
If two or three families come out together, for a few
shillings extra they can generally get a second cabin,
partitioned off from the steerage, which is much more
comfortable.”
INTRODUCTION. ***
O N THE CAUSES OF EMI GRATION.
THE first and by far the most prominent one is priva-
tion, and its consequent distress. The next, perhaps, is
dissatisfaction under real or fancied political grievances.
Some few emigrate for a warmer, dryer, or healthier
climate, and others for no reason but a love of change.
Formerly religious persecution was the chief cause
of expatriation, but happily that barbarous age is gone
by; yet, unfortunately, there is another cause of late
years in operation, although not of so violent a charac-
ter, more dangerous from its insidious and constantly
increasing power.
That this privation and distress should occur to thou-
sands and tens of thousands, in a country the richest on
earth, the most flourishing in arts, manufactures, com-
merce, and agriculture, is of so anomalous and glaring
a character, that it forces itself on the attention of every
OI) e.
I have not the ability to exhibit a full elucidation of
a cause of such magnitude; but as it has the effect of
driving so many of my countrymen yearly into exile, I
may be allowed a few words on the subject of this extra-
ordinary state of things.
#
2
INTRODUCTION.
The chief source of the evils complained of, is the
accumulating immense wealth into large masses; vir-
tually monopolizing (since the introduction of steam
power and other modern machinery) the means and
sources of the middle and lower classes, like large
globules of quicksilver swallowing up small ones within
their sphere of attraction.
In the first place, is not this incontrovertibly the case
with respect to the soil, the primary and only solid
source of wealth of most countries? For instance, are
there one half the number of proprietors and occupiers
of land now in England there were 30 or 40 years ago?
Is it not a notorious fact that large landed proprietors
buy up all the small farms and lots of land they can
meet with ? I have known parishes that had 40 or
more small proprietors and occupiers of land, where
now there is not more than one-third of that number;
the remainder generally become labourers, nearly their
only resource, throwing an extra quantity of the article
of labour into a market sufficiently supplied, and, con-
sequently, depreciating its value below a just and equi-
table price, the landlord and fundholder reaping the
benefit from the depreciation. But it will be asked,
why will farmers give a greater rent than they can
afford 7 I answer, because those farmers, that still have
a little money left, must rent a farm at some price;
they cannot do any thing else; all other trades and
occupations are already overdone. The landlord is
enabled to keep up his high rents by throwing three
or four farms into one, thereby creating a competition,
by reducing the number in the market; while, as I
before said, two or three of these farmers must, pro-
INTRODUCTION. 3
bably go the parish. The one that gets the enlarged
farm will curtail his expenses to meet the high rent, by
reducing the number of labourers kept on the four
farms; thus he impoverishes the farm, and that in
return impoverishes him, until perhaps in a short time
his resource also is the same degraded station, the
parish.
I by no means intend unqualified censure to any
class, for it is not reasonable to expect land-owners
will take low rents while they can get high ones, any
more than any other classes will dispose of their pro-
perty at a less value than it will bring in the market.
It is the business of legislators, by wise enactments, to
regulate, either directly or indirectly, those matters,
and prevent unjust monopoly.
In manufactures, some of the arts, and navigation,
this monopolizing system, chiefly through the aid of
steam power, is still more apparent. Suppose, for a
moment, that, within ten years from the present date,
one-third of the human labour now required in Great
Britain be superseded by machinery, in addition to the
present amount, there would then be nearly half the
population unemployed, or unprofitably employed, the
evils of which, if not counteracted, must overwhelm
the country in inevitable confusion: in a word, means
of living must be found, either without or with labour.
Capital, in conjunction with machinery, is rapidly,
though silently, creating a greater revolution in the
kingdom than was ever done by politics. How can
these evils be avoided, it may be asked, or would I
have machinery destroyed? To destroy machinery, I
answer, would be retrograding towards barbarism, and
B 2
4. RNTRODUCTION,
who could say to what extent it should be carried, even
if practicable? In fact, its destruction could only be
effected by the united consent and power of every coun-
try; which I need not add can never be obtained. Nor
is its destruction necessary to the happiness and welfare
of the world; but that it may prove a blessing instead
of a curse, it must be reduced from a mountain torrent
to fertilizing streams. How this is to be accomplished
is worthy serious attention. I shall not presume to
enter deeply into it, but only suggest a few hints. A
recurrence might be had to the old system of cottages
and small farms. If in each parish every farm that is
over 200 acres were divided into two, there would be
then, on an average, four or five farms more in each
township, requiring as many extra farmers to occupy
them. These farms, when divided, would probably
employ more labourers in proportion, and the land be
kept in better condition than before. In conjunction
with this, let a number of meat and convenient cottages
be built in each parish, (if there are not enough already),
and three or four, to eight or ten, or more acres, of
land, be attached to each by the rich land-owner, the
parish, or act of parliament, to be let to the most indus-
trious and honest part of the labouring class, allowing
at least one-half to be retained in arable, for potatoes,
other vegetables, and grain. These, with a little assist-
ance and indulgence at first, would pay as much rent
per acre as a farmer. By this means labour would be
täken from the present overstocked market, and poor
rates proportionably reduced. A stimulus would be
given to industry and honesty in the lower classes, for
aspiring to those cottage farms, and thence to a higher
INTRODUCTION. C
*
grade; from being now degraded nearly as low, and as
incapable of emancipating themselves and rising in the
scale of society, as the unfortunate African.
By the cottage and small farm system, in conjunction
with an adequate and permanent abatement of rents in
proportion to the price of grain, all the present popula-
tion might be beneficially employed. The former would
be a kind of reserve of labour, to which recourse could
be had by the farmer in busy times, to the mutual
benefit of each. To check the monopolizing system in
land, and to give efficacy to the cottage and small farm
system, let a graduated tax be levied on all occupiers
who retain in their possession more than 100 acres, to
be appropriated to the use of the poor; this would
effectually put a stop to the system now in practice, of
holding more than can be cultivated to the best advan-
tage to the country, and would, perhaps, keep three
or four families, and employ double the number of
labourers it now does, if divided and conducted with
energy. Numbers of large farms might easily be
pointed out at the present moment, capable of keeping
a great increase of stock, and producing much more
grain than they now do.—The want of capital is, per-
haps, the chief obstacle that prevents large farms being
cultivated to the best advantage; nine out of ten of
their occupiers have had their capitals reduced by these
retrograding times, and, unwilling to lose any of their
dignity or appearance in society, continue to occupy
them, though at a certain loss. To counteract the
growing and pernicious influence of immense monopo-
lizing capitals, and further to relieve the poor and in-
dustrious classes, let taxes be taken off every article
6 INTRODUCTION,
and commodity of general utility, and the necessaries
of life, and put on property and luxury only.
Whatever difference in opinion may be held respect-
ing the causes of the frequent embarrassments of the
agricultural and manufacturing interests, and the more
severe privations of the labouring classes, all must ac-
knowledge its frequent existence, and the paramount
necessity of an adequate and speedy remedy. Whether
our rulers, or any body of the people, take the case up
seriously, before it manifests itself in a more forcibly
convincing manner, remains to be seen. But if they do
not, emigration appears to me the only remedy in the
hands of those who may have sufficient money to carry
them out of the influence of the evil—out of the coun-
try. In case such an event be the alternative adopted,
the following pages may be of some service to direct
in the choice of a situation.
INQUIRIES OF AN EMIGRANT.
CHAPTER I.
The Author's motives for Emigration—Preparations for
the Voyage—Embarkation, and Passage out.
I SHALL premise the causes of leaving my native coun-
try, and reasons for preferring the United States; in
doing which I am only describing"the misfortunes and
fate of thousands of my countrymen.
I took a farm previous to the close of the late war
(about 1813), on a seven years' lease, and of course
at a high rent. The year following, peace came, and
with it ruin to nearly one-fourth of the agriculturists.
My landlord compelled me to hold the farm for the
term I had taken it, with but a small and insufficient
abatement of rent. The consequence was, that with
strict attention to economy and industry, at the close of
my lease I had lost one-half of my little capital, the
remains of which not being sufficient to stock the farm,
I was obliged to give it up, although offered it at one-
half the former rent. I then took his Majesty's mi-
nisters' advice, that, “if farming would not answer,
S INQUIRIES OF
farmers must engage in some other business.” I en-
gaged in another business, but through the shortness of
my funds, and a combination of untoward circum-
stances, I lost the remainder of my property. I now
determined to leave a country that no longer afforded
me a respectable and comfortable subsistence, thinking
no person with one spark of independent spirit, could
hesitate a moment in a choice between honorable,
though even laborious, exertion and dangers, with in-
dependence, to a dronish uselessness in society, or a
mean ignoble dependence on friends.
Van Diemen's Land and the United States presented
me with a choice of place for my exile. I weighed the
inducements held out by each, deliberately, and their
attractions counterpoised in the balance for some time,
until the shortness and cheapness of the passage to the
latter preponderated, and decided my choice: I then
had not the least intention of going to Canada, a place
I had been led to believe was frozen up two-thirds of
the year, and scorched up the remainder; but on arriving
in the United States, I procured better information,
without seeking it.
In October, 1824, I engaged with an American cap-
tain of a brig, lying in the London Docks, bound to
Baltimore, for a passage in the steerage, for six guineas,
my finances not allowing me to go in the cabin; and
being the only passenger on board (excepting two young
American seamen who worked their passage) had the
privilege of a small apartment to myself, dignified with
the name of “state-room.” Some days passed in pro-
viding provisions, &c. with great trouble in procuring
the variety of articles wanted, to the best advantage,
AN EMIGRANT. \}
and on the 18th we sailed with the morning tide and a
fair wind, down the river Thames; a frosty morning,
but a fine pleasant day; numbers of vessels going out;
and anchored off Gravesend for the night. I had paid
1. to a person residing near the entrance of the Docks,
for procuring me a “cocket” or clearance, which I am
inclined to think was rather an imposition, but he said
he would have procured the same for four or five pas-
sengers, had there been as many, for the same money;
went on shore to the custom-house at Gravesend, to
deliver the above cocket; was asked my name, and if
an Englishman, and for a reference in London. I had
nothing to pay, nor was any certificate of my occupation
or identity, required, as I had been led to expect; some
officers came on board, but did not examine my trunks,
merely asking if they contained wearing apparel and
personals only. The provisions I took for my passage
were laid in for eight weeks' consumption, and I had
no restriction in quantity or variety (there are restric-
tions in some ports respecting quantity, particularly if a
considerable number of passengers are going in a ship);
in the Appendix I have stated particulars at length.
We left Gravesend with a fair wind, and pretty good
spirits, my thoughts ranging through the New World I
had now fairly embarked for, and then returning again
to the land of my nativity, friends, and former home,
which, at times, would cause an involuntary sigh; but
the hopes and prospect ever-cheering fancy presented
to my mind, dissipated all gloom, and I bade adieu to
Old England without much regret. The wind being
a-head, we tacked and came to anchor off Margate for
the night; in the morning beat up into the Downs,
10 INQUIRIES OF
when the pilot left us; a New York packet-ship, the
Trident, passed in fine stile, without tacking once,
through her superior powers of sailing, and was in port
three weeks before us; this may serve as a hint to
emigrants to engage a passage in a good sailing vessel,
which may be ascertained generally by inquiry, or by
the sharpness of their bows. I would also recommend
every one, before engaging his passage in a ship, to
inquire her age (from two to ten years is best), and to
see if her sails, rigging, anchors, and cables are good,
and also if the captain is steady, respectable, and agree-
able; a middle-aged one I would generally preſer.
On leaving the Downs, we experienced a rough sea;
which produced sickness in the captain as well as
myself; the weather was quite warm, the thermometer
being at 63; the wind increasing, we made considerable
head-way, and in two days lost sight of the Lizard
Point, and a pigeon passed us fifteen miles from the
land; a packet spoke us from the Straits, bound to
Liverpool. There is no regard paid to Sunday, as a
sabbath, on board this vessel, indeed, sometimes it
would be impossible; on the 26th, a heavy gale came
on, and continued throughout the day; I could hardly
get from my berth or help tumbling out; no life nor
power to move—just enough to wish myself on some
shore; the wind dropped in the night, but the sea con-
tinued to roll its mighty waves—
“Oh wonderful thou art, great element
And fearful in thy spleeny humours bent,
Yet lovely in repose.”
This was succeeded by a calm (three vessels in
sight); ate a little gruel and a pancake only; a good
AN EMI GRANT. 11
deal of the latter used in the cabin. October 29th,
another strong gale during the night, in which we
again “lay too:” wind south-west, which drove us in
sight of Cape Clear, in Ireland, by the morning, and
in the heavy squall which followed, we had near been
capsized through the negligence of the mate not taking
in the sails soon enough; the captain, who was in bed
when it came on, was instantly on deck, and gave the
mate a deserved reprimand; one of the sails giving
way, and the wind lowering, they were enabled to set
all right again; the weather for several days various,
and we felt a warmer climate, and longer days, north
latitude 44; 29—longitude, 12:30, west—thermome-
ter 83. On the evening of Nov. 2d, a bank of clouds
arose north-west, and a breeze sprung up in our favour;
we had now been thirteen days at sea, and its effects were
such, that provisions were in some measure useless,
tea, gruel, pudding, or a roasted potatoe being all I
could take, with soda-water, or a little warm porter for
drink; but at this time the weather became pleasant
and warm, with light wind, thermometer 65, and the
sea being nearly smooth, partially restored my health,
and I made ample amends in eating after my long
abstinence; we now got so far from land that the gulls
and other sea birds left us, and experienced a variety
of winds, but generally warm weather, and the voyager
would have some pleasure in agreeable and decorous
company; whales sported about, and other large fish
were occasionally near the vessel. The saline air
caused my apparel to become damp and mouldy, and
knives, &c. to rust; attention to these matters, assisted
in passing time away, but occasional squalls would in-
I 2 INQUIRIES OF
terrupt my business; in the twilight I often amused
myself, when there was a gentle breeze fanning the
surface of the water, by viewing the ripples it made
with their white caps, it looked so much like an exten-
sive fallow-field, with a slight scattering of snow on its
unevennesses; and fancy, ever busy, conjured up in
the distance some well-known familiar spot for the
imagination to feast on, till the darkening shades of
night, or the approach and noise of sailors, aroused me
from my reverie:–ten days thus passed, when we had
a heavy breeze all day, and took in the main top-gallant
sails. Have seen of late a large brown bird of the gull
species, which the sailors call a shear-water, and some
small birds like martins they denominate Mother Cary's
chickens. The ship's store of potatoes became half
rotten through having been dug before they were ripe,
and put on board in a wet state. Mine remained quite
sound, but began to shoot, through the mild season.
Rather disagreeable weather followed this gale, and
several seas broke over the vessel: then a dead calm
ensued, and the ship rolled much; but a smart breeze
soon sprung up, north by east, which carried us eight
knots per hour, and was the first wind the sailors called
fair, that is, lying aft, or at the hind part of the vessel.
The sea water is quite warm, and sparkles alongside the
ship at night like fire; this appearance is caused, appa-
rently, by the ship's side dashing the salt water into
air-bubbles: some assert that this fiery appearance
arises from a kind of animalculae, but this opinion is
evidently erroneous, for these animalculae are never
numerous enough in the water in any one place, and
but occasionally to be met with at all, when these
AN EMI GRANT. 13
sparkles are everywhere to be seen in the night in salt
water. The air from the waves which break at the
ship's side, on leaning over, rises in the face like the
steam from heated water. The vessel now made a
good deal of water when the sea was rough.
The captain swears and storms like a madman; at
one time cursing the men (by-the-by, some of them
were a stupid set of fellows), then the ship, and the
weather, and almost in the same breath saying, they
could not have had a better day for the work they had
to do, and that we had been highly favoured through-
out: so inconsistent is human nature
We were often compelled to lay to, in which there is
little danger in any moderate gale, provided you have
plenty of sea-room to drift, and the vessel has far less
motion than if sailing in the same wind, or in a calm.
In one of the late gales the tiller rope broke, when it
threw down, and very much cut and bruised, the man
steering. My butter was all spoiled through the warm
weather, not having been potted close, and sufficient
salt put in it.
Squalls, calms, head winds, &c. continue, and the
captain says he never experienced so much bad weather
and opposing winds before. A disagreeable life on
board in such seasons: perhaps you are pitched head-
foremost against one side of the vessel by a lee-lurch,
or a roll, and before you have time to recover your
legs, tumbled to the other side; or at dinner, the
dishes and plates with their contents are suddenly
dashed to the floor, when the potatoes, &c. are rolling
about from one side of the vessel to the other, as if
playfully amusing themselves; and, while attempting
14 INQUIRIES OF
their recovery, you roll after them, or tumble head-
foremost, to the no small amusement of the rest of the
company.
We continued to experience westerly winds, which
retarded our progress greatly, a proof of which was,
that we spoke a brig from New York, bound to Buenos
Ayres, out only eight days, and it took us three weeks
to get into port; indeed, their prevalence is a strong
reason why the voyage out should not be undertaken at
this season, and that this period, or a little earlier, is
often chosen to return to England. Appearances indi-
cated an approach to the New World, and like similar
circumstances to Columbus filled us with hope. Great
quantities of sea or gulph-weed floated past us, and on
the 4th of December we were in latitude 34 : 35, and
southed a degree. Beautiful April-like weather, ther-
mometer 71 in the shade, and 73 in the water; some-
times some light showers, with occasionally lightning in
the evenings. The air exhibited a curious appearance,
being of a yellowish red colour, and the clouds of a
cinerous blue, which were in a thousand fantastic and
singular forms, the sailors called them snow-clouds.
Saw a number of flying fish pursued by a dolphin, and
also numerous beautiful coloured nautilus or “men of
war,” with their sails expanded to the breeze, blown
swiftly over the undulating waves. My bottled porter
was excellent, and of great service now I had re-
covered from the sea-sickness; saw no more gulph-weed.
We had now crossed the back stream, and were between
the two; it runs down the eastern coast of America,
across the banks of Newfoundland, round the Western
Isles, and along the coast of Africa.
AN EMIGRANT, 15
Dec. 6.—Squally again of late. Getting near the
gulph-stream, which makes it warm, and great quan-
tities of the gulph, or sea-weed is seen again; it nearly
covers the surface of the water in some places, and in
others it is extended for miles in parallel lines, north-
east and south-west; I should suppose drifted from the
side of the stream, which runs in that direction in this
part.
Dec. 10.—Getting too far south, through the preva-
lence of north-west winds; latitude 33 : 30, thermometer
65 in the air, and 72 in the water. A shark ten or
twelve feet in length came alongside the vessel, and
a number of grampuses were seen at a distance. Fine
weather, and would be delightful if on shore, and not
altogether otherwise here.
Dec. 12.—Light wind, and smooth sea; clear, bright,
warm day. Two dolphins came swimming about the
vessel, one of which the captain struck with a fish-
spear, and succeeded in getting it on board; they all
said it was the largest they had ever seen, six feet
seven and a half inches in length, and I should suppose
weighed three quarters of a cwt. or more.
Dec. 13.—Hardly any wind of late, but a breeze
sprung up this morning, and soon rose into a gale, and
at noon blew violently from the southward. The foam
flew like fine-drifted snow : the wind suddenly fell, and
then chopped round to the north-west, and blew more
moderate, when the grandest sight I had ever seen pre-
sented itself: the tremendous billows meeting in all
directions formed a thousand fantastical shapes, some-
times running up into high peaks or spires, then sud-
denly sinking into vast abysses; or two large waves
16 INQUIRIES OF
meeting, rose into an immense ridge; or meeting with
violence, dashed their spray in all directions, as if in a
rude, frolicsome play, while the vessel rose up their
mountain sides most majestically, receiving now and
then a salute from their gambols. Rain came on, and
clouds were seen flying in various directions; the air
remarkably warm. Thermometer in the morning 70,
and in the water at noon 74; and before night 79;
remaining at 70 in the air.—So we are in the Great
Gulph stream at last !
Dec. 15.—Through the Gulph as it is called, and the
air gets colder every hour. Shortened sail last night,
and sounded without finding bottom. Found, by an
observation taken at noon, we were in latitude 35 : 19.
Just north of Cape Hattrass, a dangerous reef of sunken
rocks, running forty miles into the sea, on the coast of
Carolina. Sounded again in the evening, and found
nineteen fathoms water. The thermometer had sunk
in the air to 45, and in the water to 68. Water on
soundings looks green, in the ocean a dark blue; this is
universal, I am told.
Dec. 16.—Made land this morning opposite Roanoke
Inlet, North Carolina, near the borders of Virginia,
seventy miles too far south of the Chesapeak Bay;
ranged within five miles of the shore all day, with a
light breeze, and fine clear cold air. Cannot see any-
thing of the country, but clay and sand banks, covered
with pines and other trees; it is apparently a flat land
along the sea-board; vessels sailing in different direc-
tions, and numbers of wild ducks seen along the shore.
Dec. 17.-As no pilot came on board last evening, a
lantern was hung up in the night at the mast head, for
AN EMIGRANT. 17
a signal, and at two o'clock this morning one hove his
boat alongside and was taken on board, who proceeded
immediately with the vessel round Cape Henry, into
the Chesapeak Bay; the wind having got south-east at
the same time, with a stiff breeze, wafted us along faster
than we had sailed all the time we had been out. Rain
and hazy weather came on this evening, which com-
pelled us reluctantly to come to an anchor for fear of
the shoals. The Chesapeak is a very fine Bay, from
ten or twelve to twenty miles across, and upwards of
two hundred long; its low banks, fringed with trees,
are all that is to be seen of the country, excepting here
and there a house near the shore, and occasionally a
Small town or village. A great number of small craft,
loaded with cord, wood for fuel, country produce, &c.
for Baltimore market. Ten thousands of wild ducks,
geese, Swans, &c., almost covering the Bay, swimming
and flying; an English sportsman would be in his
Elysium here !
Dec. 18.-After a wet, blowing night, it cleared up
soon after day-light this morning, when we weighed
anchor, and proceeded up the Patapsco River. As
beautiful a day as ever shone, with a serene mild air,
and pleasant light breeze. Vessels of all sizes sailing
in various directions, with well-dressed people on board;
and Baltimore, with its white buildings rising to our
view on the sides of the hills, as we approached it, had
a most exhilarating effect on one whose vision had been
confined to the monotonous rolling of the unstable
waters for sixty-five days, which is deemed a very long
passage.
18 INQUIRIES OF
CHAPTER II.
Arrival at Baltimore—Description of the Town, its
Inhabitants, and Customs—Ea:cursions in the neigh-
bourhood, and continued residence—with a variety of
niscellaneous Remarks.
My diary having been kept as a daily journal, I shall
now offer it to the reader in that form, as exhibiting,
better than any other mode, a narrative of my proceed-
ings; and presenting to him the best means of under-
standing the occupations of my time, and the space I
traversed.
On the 18th Dec., at two o'clock, the pilot laid the
vessel alongside the wharf, when, in an instant its deck
was covered with people of all sorts, looking about and
asked questions. After packing my luggage, I went
into the town to procure something to eat, lodgings, &c.,
when I felt myself a stranger, on a foreign, although a
kindred strand. After dining heartily on some excellent
sausages, with some pleasant mild ale, I took a ramble
through the city; but I hardly knew how to walk, the
pavement seemed to have the motion of the vessel.
Baltimore is a large town, with some handsome public
and private buildings; the streets are spacious, airy,
and clean; the centres pitched with rock stone, and the
side walks paved with red brick, of which also the
houses are mostly built. Pratt-street, along tha water
side, was all in a bustle, and apparently full of business,
AN EMIGRANT. 19
but the method of doing it evidently differs considerably
from the manner in England.
Dec. 19. Sunday.—At one church, and two meeting-
houses (no chapels here); some of them elegant
buildings, with very respectable-looking congregations.
Dined with the captain, whose treatment was hospit-
able. The manners of the Americans appear widely
different to the English, particularly of the females,
who are more easy and unembarrassed, yet reserved, in
their address, than the retiring diffidence of the latter.
Took lodgings at a respectable ship carpenter's, at three
dollars, or 13s.6d. Sterling, per week, board, washing,
and mending included.
Dec. 20.—A clear, bright, frosty air this morning.
Thermometer in my sleeping room 43. Went to the
custom-house, with the captain, to clear my luggage.
Paid half a dollar to a notary (a very polite, agreeable
person) for drawing up an inventory and certificate of
my luggage, and 20 cents (one-fifth of a dollar, or about
11 d. Sterling) on presenting it; when the only question
asked was, Will you swear this is a correct statement,
and that the articles are for your own private use ! I
merely answered in the affirmative. Had a ramble
through the town and its environs. Like the appear-
ance of the Americans generally, and think the place
prosperous, as the people appear to be all employed
and busy, and have the air of ease and content in
their countenances, with but little superciliousness.
The markets are well supplied with meat as to quantity,
but the quality not quite so good as in England, ex-
cepting the pork, which is fine; some little good beef,
but veal and mutton very indifferent, nor is trouble
c 2
20 INQUIRIES OF
taken to set it off to the best advantage. The vege-
tables brought to market now are chiefly potatoes, beets,
and cabbages, great quantities of the latter, and mostly
drumheads; some few carrots, turnips, onions, sweet
potatoes, &c. at moderate prices. A great many ne-
groes about the markets and wharfs, who appear far
more lively and as independent as the whites, but are
treated by the latter as inferior beings; will not eat at
the same table, or walk in their company, and have
separate places of worship.
There are five market houses in Baltimore, some of
them large, and all conveniently built, very similar to
the old Fleet Market in London. The centres, which
are spacious, are occupied on each side by the butchers;
on the outside of the butchers' stalls is also a passage
on each side, with stalls on either hand, where vege-
tables, country produce, flour, meal, &c., ready-made
clothes, shoes, tin-ware, &c. are exposed. The fish mar-
kets are at the ends of the others, and generally well
supplied. To-day are their Christmas markets, at which
there is great plenty of every thing—some good beef,
pork excellent, mutton thin and small, veal (calf)
hardly fit to eat, killed too young. Beef, 2d. to 3}d.
per pound; the best cuts, 4%d. (I have stated the prices
in sterling money, being far more conveniently under-
stood by the British reader); pork generally sold by
the carcass, brought in by the farmers from the country,
from 2d. to 3%d, per pound, and sometimes even lower;
veal and mutton by the quarter, at 1s. 2d. to 2s. 8d.
each; turkeys, 1s. 2d. to 2s. 3d, each; fowls, 63d. to
9d. ditto; cabbages, (drumheads), 1.d. to 2d. each; po-
tatoes and turnips, 10d, to 1s. 2d. per bushel, &c. I
AN LMIGRANT. 21
was asked in the market 5l. for a cow and calf, worth
in England 8l. or 10, only five or six cows in the
market; no fairs for cattle here, and but few sold in
the markets; there are some farmers that deal in them,
and supply those who want, and I am told do pretty
well by it; wholesale butchers buy up the droves of
cattle that are driven from Ohio and the west, slaughter,
and sell them to the retail ones. The regulations re-
specting the markets in this warm climate are judicious;
no slaughtering allowed in the town—no butchers'
shops opened any where; the cattle are killed out of
town, and the meat taken to the market houses early
in the morning, where the inhabitants flock at break of
day with their baskets, as every one carries home his
purchases. The markets close in summer at eleven
o'clock, in winter at one. Great numbers of country
waggons at the market every day through the fall,
[autumn] winter, and spring, with country produce.
Large quantities of water-fowl, from the Bay, brought
to the markets during the winter; wild ducks, a great
variety, from 33d. to 5d. each; the canvas-back is large,
and considered a delicacy, 1s. 1d. to 1s. 6d. each;
partridges, 4d. to 7d, each; quails, 1.d. to 2}d. ditto;
hares and rabbits, small, from 6d. to 1s. each.
The land round the city is hilly, commanding fine
views down the Bay, and over the country. The soil in
the vicinity is a mixture of dirty yellow clay, with sand
and gravel, but the bottoms or small valleys which lie
to the east and north-west are good, and here are the
gardens that supply the markets. On the little hills
and risings are situated some country seats, that the
wealthy inhabitants retire to in summer; their white-
22 INQUIRIES OF
ness, enlivened with the brightness of the sun, on open-
ing to the view in different directions, from behind the
slips of woods, reminds me of some spots in the neigh-
bourhood of London, but on approaching them many
are in a dilapidated state, and the gardens and fences
in a slovenly, neglected condition.
Dec. 25.—Christmas-day: instead of ringing bells,
&c. as in England (there are but few bells here to ring)
it was ushered in by firing guns, squibs, and crackers
all last night, and continues with intervals through the
day. The moment I arose this morning, I was pre-
sented with a glass of “egg-mogg,” as they termed it,
a compound of rum, eggs, milk, and sugar, also with
ginger-cake, and a cake with raisins in it, which is their
“Christmas cake; ” all for merry-making and “par-
ties.” I was pressed to one in the evening with the
captain and his wife, a number of fine females and their
beaus present; the time was spent with a variety of
plays, singing songs, playing on the piano, eating cake,
drinking toddy, peach brandy, &c., quite a sociable
party, the female part easy and apparently unaffected;
broke up early by the request of our host, the next day
being Sunday. Americans use very little or no cere-
mony, except the introduction by shaking hands, &c.;
each leaves table at meal-time as soon as done eating,
and they are generally quick: no bidding good night, or
other ceremony, on going to bed.
Dec. 26, Sunday.—The day as fine as the preceding,
thermometer 47, with a clear bright air; the sun rises
twenty-five minutes after seven o'clock on the shortest
day, and sets thirty-five minutes past four. At the
Roman Catholic cathedral this morning; it is just
A N EMIGRA NT. 23
finished, and is a large elegant place, far superior to
the one in Moorfields, London; there is another church
here also of that persuasion, and a grand Unitarian one,
but the latter has but a small congregation; there are
besides, Episcopalians [church of England], Presbyte-
rians, Congregationalists, Baptists, Quakers, and Me-
thodists; the latter appear to be the most numerous,
they having four or five large meetings, and all well
attended. At one of them this evening; the male part
of the audience on one side of the meeting, and the
female on the other; the preacher respectable, but
rather too moisy, yet he had to beg the attention of the
congregation more than once; no pews, but long en-
closed seats from one end to the other of the gallery,
and below, from the aisles to the sides, and across be-
tween them; every one appeared to sit where he thought
proper; the floors most disgustingly dirty from the
effects of tobacco; more than half the males of the age
of fourteen chew tobacco; and boys of ten or twelve
years may often be seen smoking a cigar.
Dec. 27.—A thick fog this morning, wind east, and
no frost; sun broke through the mist at noon, when it
was quite warm. I took my gun into the woods, but
found no game; on my return, by the race-ground, a
number of persons had a bull tied to a stake for the
purpose of baiting; I stopped to see a “set-to,” as I
had never seen one before; the bull was a fine, well-
bred, gentle creature; seven or eight dogs were turned
loose at him at once They soon tore his ears off, and
shockingly lacerated his head, which made the poor
thing bellow hideously, and run about in every direction
to the length of his chain, maddened with pain; in ten
24 INQUIRIES OF
minutes he had killed one dog, and lamed others, when
I turned away with disgust at the cruel sport; I was
afterwards informed, the animal's head was literally
torn to pieces ! One might be led to suppose, by this
spectacle, the Baltimoreans are a depraved set of beings,
but I must say to their credit, I saw not more than ten
or twelve of respectable looking people there, the others,
about one hundred, consisted of the refuse of the place,
and a number of them job butchers. Bull-baiting is not
allowed in the liberties of the city, and means are about
to be taken to put a stop to it altogether.
I have been looking out for some little business, or a
situation as superintendent, or overseer of a farm, but
have not yet succeeded; I find I am not prepared for
the latter, because I do not understand the management
of Blacks. I have been introduced to some English-
men, but they, generally, have treated me with far more
reserve and coolness than the Americans. One from
the Isle of Wight, a Mr. S., says he was an extensive
farmer and butcher there: he has been here about two
years, and is doing pretty well as a butcher, having
nothing much when he came, and has some ungracious
feelings towards his native country. Another from
Hampshire has been here fifty-six years, and is seventy-
eight years of age. He shouldered his musket in the
late war, he tells me, to defend his home.
Sunday, Jan. 2, 1825.-Some snow in the night, with
rain, and afterwards frost, which makes the streets all
ice; some few sleighs about to day, with bells, which I
am told they are compelled to have by law, that they
may not run foul of each other in the night. Heard a
rather celebrated orator (a Methodist preacher from the
AN EMI GRANT. 25
back woods), hold forth in a meeting belonging to
another denomination, in aid of a subscription for build-
ing an asylum for orphan females; a fluent speaker,
but manner too theatrical, and language bombastic.
Jan. 10.—Frosty of late, when there were plenty of
people to be seen skating. Been to ask the price of
land to rent; one lot of fifty acres, only half cleared,
four miles from town, 18s. per acre per annum; another
of rich bottom land, or meadow, several miles off, near
the river, I was asked 12 dollars, or 21, 14s, per acre,
rent. Great numbers of waggons from distant parts of
the country every day, with barrels of flour for the
merchants, and fat hogs, dead, for the market; some
come four hundred miles, the drivers sleeping in the
waggons at might, and carry with them the horses' feed;
the waggons are excellent, strong, and light; narrow
wheels, narrow in the body, with tilts, seven or eight
bows bent over, and removable at pleasure, these
covered by a light-coloured fine canvass, drawn together
at each end like a purse: the horses go double, with a
pole, like a coach, generally four or six in each, some-
times five, the driver riding the near hind horse, with
reins in one hand and whip in the other, and mostly go
a trot. Smaller and very light waggons, drawn by one
horse, called carry-alls, or carioles, are used to bring
in milk, butter, eggs, fowls, &c. Vendues [auctions]
of books, and almost every description of merchandise,
are held every few days, and others at night. Some-
times things are sold very low, I saw some British
goods nearly as cheap as in London; American books
much lower, but they are not quite so well printed, and
paper generally inferior.
26 INQUIRIES OF
Sunday, Jan. 16.-Dull foggy day; frost out of the
ground again. Witnessed a military funeral procession
(General Harper, who died suddenly on Friday last);
an early burial, we should think, yet here, I am told, it
is the custom to inter a corpse the next, and often the
same day of its decease. A grand parade of near 2000
soldiers, volunteers, there are no regulars in the city;
there were three bands of music with muffled drums;
each company having a peculiar dress made their ap-
pearance quite novel; two companies with different
coloured plaid dresses; they all had frock jackets, I
believe. The procession began with some officers, then
some companies, and music playing various solemn
airs; three or four more companies and music; then
two brass field-pieces, and company of artillery-men;
more music, and companies; then the hearse, (a small
one, open on the side, as they all appear to be here);
the General's horse, with sword, boots, &c.; mourning
coaches; riflemen in companies; and closed with a great
number of hackney coaches, and thousands of pedes-
trians. Some of the above companies are composed of
respectable tradesmen, who have expensive dresses,
with ostrich feathers on their caps, which gives them
much the appearance of the ancient Spanish dress.
General Harper was a Federalist, and like the whole
of that party was looked upon with a kind of suspicion,
as they are thought to have too great an attachment to
the English constitution.
Jan. 23, Sunday.—At a Methodist meeting to-day;
a woman cried out “mercy,” and some others shouted
“glory,” and clapped hands, mostly women, and gene-
rally by the same persons; a common thing here I am
AN EMIGRANT. 27
told, which appears evident, as it excited little or no sur-
prise, even amongst the most thoughtless; the preacher
encouraged it, by preaching, or rather exclaiming louder
as the women cried the more, till at last it amounted
to almost raving; and because he could not make any
apparent impression on the rest of the congregation, he
accused them of hardness of heart, &c. I fear there is
more weakness and enthusiasm than true devotion in
such scenes as these; still custom makes it sufferable,
and the Methodists have been rapidly increasing the
last few years, and have evidently done much good; in
most of the meetings here, of every denomination, they
have another disgusting practice in the middle of the
service, by holding a green bag at the end of a pole, in
your face, along every seat, for money to purchase wood
for the stoves, candles, &c. Here I will say a word or
two on the excessive fondness of Americans for stoves:
every church and meeting has from two to four in each;
hardly a poor family in Baltimore but has one or more,
at which the cooking is all done in winter, which makes
their rooms like ovens, and many people look as if half
stewed. Lotteries are continually drawing here, and
I believe have a bad tendency on the morals of the
middle and lower classes. Almost every tavern keeps a
bowling-alley, where the idle resort to play at ten pins
(nine pins having been prohibited by law () and various
other games. Luxury and licentiousness appear to be
usual in the lower part of the community, through the
latitude and ability given by the republican institutions
—as monarchial governments tend to the same effect in
the upper classes of their subjects.
Jan. 27.-There has been little frost through the
28 INQUIRIES OF
winter, and filler weather I never saw ; the people say
they never knew so mild a season, the winters being
sometimes rather severe. Walked into the country, by
a small stream full of falls, on which twelve or fourteen
mills are erected within three or four miles—a most
beautiful, romantic place; the water coming from high
ground, has washed a channel of one hundred feet
deep, and laid bare, in places, rocks and loose stones of
an enormous size, some of thirty or forty tons; trees
grow out of the steep banks, fifty feet over head, and
many from the top of the banks, entwined with the
slender vine; saw a fine field of cock's-foot (here termed
orchard-grass) pasture, which they were manuring, ra-
ther an uncommon practice it would seem; the farmers
are either too idle to draw out manure, or do not know
its value, or else it will not pay for the trouble, as such
large quantities are seen lying about the town, treading
to waste. It is said the machinery of several mills
about Baltimore, is some of the finest in the world; a
large steam mill, at one of the wharfs, takes the wheat
out of the holds of vessels by a screw, grinds it, dresses
it, and barrels it, with hardly the least intervention of
human labour. Inquired the price of some rich land
that was advertised to let, belonging to a prudent Scotch-
man, and was asked 31. 3s. per acre, a-year; he said it
would produce from 1000 to 1400 bushels of potatoes
per acre; it was rather singular, I replied, inasmuch
as at a late agricultural meeting, a crop of only 250
bushels obtained a premium. In Market-street there
are the remains of two triumphal arches erected in
honour of General Lafayette, on his visit to this city.
The people where I lodge, had what they call “a quilt-
AN EMIGRANT. 29
ing frolic,” where a number of -neighbours came to
quilt by invitation. A South American brig just refitted
here, commanded by a Baltimore captain, who is con-
sidered but little better than a pirate. A frigate is just
lying on the stocks, to be built for the same power,
which causes a considerable demand for ship carpenters,
and rise in wages—now giving from 7s. to 9s. per day,
without board, the trade having been very flat before.
Baltimore ships are allowed to be the fastest sailors in
the United States, and, perhaps, in the world; they are
built very sharp, as it is termed, and are called clippers.
Feb. 14. Valentine's day,+in which Cupid holds
court here as well as in England. There was some
sharp weather at the beginning of the month, but the
harbour has not been frozen over through the winter so
as to stop trade, which is rather singular, I am told.
The air continues cool, but the sun at times is very
warm; the thermometer 50, in the house; dirty unset-
tled weather of late; ducking parties often made, when
four or five, or more persons, with three or four days'
provision, get a small vessel and some skiffs, and go
down the Bay to the islands, where they place them-
selves, and, perhaps, bag a hundred or two hundred in
a day. º
March 7.—General M“Donald, an old revolutionary
officer, having advertised for a superintendant over his
farms, I made application, with an anxious and palpi-
tating heart, for the humble situation; and yet (as I
feared) I was rejected; I did not suit, not having a wife
to look after the dairy, nor having been acquainted with
the American methods of farming, nor the management
of blacks (slaves). I begin to feel in rather an unplea-
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sant situation; disappointed in all my endeavours, and
my finances getting low; but I am schooled to dis-
appointments and misfortunes, they seem my unalien-
able property. I now turned my attention towards
home, from whence I expected a letter, and some little
money. No one that has not been placed in similar
circumstances can tell my feelings at this time : no
friend near to console or assist me, and I had neglected
to bring letters of recommendation, which, when I left
England, I supposed would be useless; the lowest sta-
tion seemed to await me, but I summoned courage, to
wait with patience, and rely on Providence.
General M*Donald is upwards of eighty years of
age, yet is very active, and has been robust; he is an
instance, by no means uncommon here, of the longevity
of Europeans. It would seem, the climate is congenial
to the robust and over-luxuriant constitutions bred in
Britain. The dryness of the air, perhaps, desiccates the
superabundant moisture generated by the dampness of
an English climate. A young man, a ship carpenter
from the Canada frontiers, has come to board where I
am, he was compelled to leave that neighbourhood,
having been detected in smuggling merchandise into
that province in a fictitious or forged name; he gives
a flattering account of the above country, near Detroit,
and says the climate is fine and healthy.
Sunday, March 13,-Heard a woman preach, and
the meeting was crowded to excess. She had a strong,
and not unpleasant voice, except when strained above
its natural key; she prayed fervently and rather elo-
quently, but her discourse not sufficiently explanatory.
This was the first woman I have heard preach; and it
AN EMIGRANT. 31
appears to me, that a woman assuming the sacred and
dignified office of a preacher, must sacrifice some of
that modesty and delicacy of feeling, indispensable to
the character of an amiable and virtuous female.
March 17. St. Patrick's Day.—The sons of Hibernia,
after going in procession, and attending at the Roman
Catholic church, exhibit a little of the overflowings of
their natural warm-heartedness, excited by a drop of the
“cratur.” Weather getting as hot as May in England,
with occasional thunder showers, and the thermometer
65 this morning at sunrise. I have heard no birds
singing in the fields, except a small blue bird, warbling
like the lowest notes of the blackbird, and the chirping
of robins—a bird of the size of field-fares, and like them
in colour, with a reddish breast. Not one fourth so
many small birds here as in England. Frogs are croak-
ing, and a small sort whistling. Passed over Belvidere
Bridge on the stream before-mentioned; it is a large
and ingenious piece of wooden workmanship, of one
arch, one hundred and ninety feet span; with two cart
ways, twelve feet each, and two foot ways six feet each,
and is covered over with a shingled roof, to keep it dry;
horses are not allowed to be trotted over it, under a
penalty; a considerable cotton factory near it (with one
hundred and forty windows) worked by water. Passed
through several “burying grounds” at the back of the
town, on the common, slightly railed in; on the tombs
and head-stones in the Roman Catholic one, I found
Irish names generally. Baltimore consists, I believe, of
more than half Irish and their descendants. The by-
roads, and some of the turnpike ones, are now in a bad
state through the thaws and heavy rains; but it soon
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dries up by the heat of the sun. It is said, there is more
rain falls here than in England, which I think is proba-
ble, arising from its vicinity to the Gulph-stream, as
whenever the wind is from that quarter, rain or heavy
fogs generally follow. Turnips sprouting, and grass
beginning to grow; saw some snow-drops, crocuses, &c.
blowing in the “Columbian Garden,” a poor place,
belonging to a tavern, and made public in summer to
drinkin, &c. But few private gardens in and about the
town, although so much ground lying waste in every
back street. Houses here mostly full of windows; a
small room, in which I am now writing, has four; I
have seen six in one room, yet still more singular, often
two-thirds of them closed by shutters and blinds. Some
few of the houses are built narrow, with the roofs in-
climing only one way, like half a large house split down
the middle into two. Roofs are universally formed of
shingles, which have some appearance of tiles, but
handsomer, and far preferable to either slates or tiles as
non-conductors of heat in this hot climate, yet of course
more dangerous to fire. One evening, at the request of
a respectable young man, I accompanied him to a for-
tune-teller; she was a respectable-looking woman, with
a family, in a well-furnished house; the latter, pro-
bably, the fruits of disgusting culpability. Captains of
vessels make it a practice to go to one of these oracles
before embarking, to know their success | Even strict
professors of religion do not scruple to avow their belief,
that they can give the desired information, past, pre-
sent, and to come. I have been as near highly offend-
ing some of them as prudence would dictate, by laughing
at their credulity.
AN EMI GRANT, 33
Sunday, March 21.-Heard an English Missionary
preach; two of them just arrived from the West Indies
on their way home. The Captain with whom they
came would not take any thing for their passage. The
difference in manner and countenance of an English-
man and an American, when placed in juxta-position,
is striking. The latter have the appearance of less
animation, good humour, and frankness, and I may add
solidity and firmness of character; but on the other
hand they exhibit a more composed and even tempera-
ment; shrewd, easy, and unembarrassed, accompanied
with an independent carelessness, the latter arising,
probably, from their republican institutions, which re-
cognize no superior. It is said “the liberal government
of the United States has the effect of producing gene-
rally in the deportment of individuals, who know neither
superiors nor inferiors, a certain degree of ease and
dignity that is equally removed from servility and arro-
gance; and that it is one of these practical principles
that the poorer classes in this country are more civilized,
more polite and friendly, though not so submissive, as
persons of the same fortune in Europe.” Attended a
Bible Society; no applause or apparent emotion excited
by the speeches of the orators, more than at an ordinary
religious meeting. The English, generally, have fuller
features, and ruddier, healthier countenances than the
Americans, still there are many fine, healthy, and fresh-
looking of the latter, although some have a touch of the
dark yellow tinge of the French and Spaniards, and
others of a nankeen colour, which may, in part, arise
from the heat of the climate. At the first interview
with an American family, there is another feature
D
34 INQUIRIES OF
strikingly evident—the precocious sage-like appearance
and unembarrassed deportment of the children; no
diffidence or reserve before strangers; and yet I can
hardly call it impudence, it seems to them so easy and
natural. Through the warmth of the climate it would
seem they arrive at maturity at an earlier age, gene-
rally, than in England; the youngsters, from twelve to
sixteen years of age, have the airs of men and women,
and females then enter the matrimonial state; there are
instances at the earliest of the above periods. A woman
of twenty-five is undeservedly punished with the vile
and reproachful epithet of “confirmed old maid;” even
at twenty they do not entirely escape it. The mistress
of the house in which I lodge was married at fourteen
years of age; though I may just note by the way there
are no mistresses or masters in this country, except for
blacks; the mistresses are all misses, married as well as
single, with this distinction—an unmarried female has
her christian, or (as it is called) “given " name added
to Miss, which is not used to married females.
March 22.—Fine bright warm weather, thermometer
about 60; something like a fine English April. Had a
stroll into the country; grass and wheat begin to show
green; the last looks well; fruit trees budding; weep-
ing-willows green. Great quantities of fish tied in
bunches, lying along the Bay side, tainting the air.
When the fishermen are not able to dispose of them
before being spoiled, they are thus thrown into the
water. Shad season just commenced; a fine fish of
the herring kind, but ten times as large, sold at from
1s. 1d. to 1s. 6d. a pair, weighing from one, to two or
three lbs. each. One fisherman, the first day, caught
AN EMIGRANT. 35
12,000, and sold them on the spot at 11, 2s. 6d. per
hundred, which is the general price. The fisheries for
shad and herring, in the Bay, let for high rents. Great
plenty of vegetables at market; greens, turnip-tops,
turnips, beets, parsnips, carrots, potatoes, celery, &c.
and herbs, shrubs, and fruit trees.
March 31.—Took a long ramble into the country;
the day warm and pleasant, thermometer 64. Saw a
man breaking up ley, which was rather stiff, with a
pair of horses, and another at plough on some short
lands, with one horse: their ploughs are very light and
neatly made, better adapted for light work than any I
have seen in general use in England. The Americans
appear to adopt things to circumstances generally, not
being chained with old customs and prejudices; they
likewise think their “mingled descent from various
nations has a benign influence on genius, something
like the improving effects of an analogous state upon
vegetables, and upon inferior animals.” Been to see
some fat show-beef at the Marsh Market, that was ad-
vertised; it was what would be called pretty good in
England; the butcher had the American flag stuck
over his stall.
April 4.—Took a walk to the race-ground, a new-
cleared piece of land, with a tavern erected on it, kept
by the proprietor, who gave a silver cup to be run for, to
attract customers; six horses started, some pretty good
ones; a great number of men and boys of the work-
ing classes, and apprentices, throwing quoits, bowling,
shooting at marks, pitch and hustle, &c. and gambling
in the booths; but only five or six females on the
COll TSe.
D 2
36 INQUIRIES OF
April 12.-There are English thorn hedges on two
farms near, which are badly taken care of, and are just
coming on the leaf. Apple and other trees out, and
cherries in blossom ; saw some green peas fit to stick.
The mocking birds begin to sing, they are about the
size of a thrush, with notes very similar; I cannot dis-
tinguish the imitative powers which gave them their
name. I have seen a number of black and other
snakes, the former as nimble as weasels. Coughs and
colds are not half so usual as in England; I have not
felt one until now; had a bad one on leaving London,
as likewise had several of the ship's crew, but they left
us the first day we got to sea, as the sailors had foretold.
April 20.—Changeable weather; thermometer some-
times at 45, then again up to near 70 ! House-flies get
busy, and dance their merry meanders near the ceiling.
Cockchafers buz around you by thousands when walk-
ing out of town in an evening. Trees getting into full
leaf; rye will soon be in the ear; the people ploughing,
sowing, &c. busily; oats coming up and grass growing.
Martins and swallows here some days, the former much
larger than those in England, and of the colour of a
starling, with a note not dissimilar.
April 22,-Guns firing at Fort M'Henry; saw some
field-pieces and artillery-men ranged round, by beat of
drum, the monument erected in memory of those who
fell at the battle of Northpoint, in the late war. The
Americans, when in company with Englishmen, are
fond of introducing the last war into conversation, as
if it was over but yesterday, it being also a continual
theme in their newspapers; the women are particularly
warm on the subject, and will recount the plunderings
AN EMI GRANT. 37
and burnings of their coasts by the British, with great
animation and indignation; and if you answer them it
was in retaliation for plunderings and burnings in
Canada, they will positively deny it; so prejudiced and
ignorant are they kept of the true circumstances of the
case by an interested public press. The Baltimoreans
pride themselves on the determined and successful de-
fence of their city, when attacked and bombarded by
the British, yet acknowledged it was perfect madness
in the latter to make the attempt with only 7,000 men,
while the place was defended by 30,000, and its neigh-
bourhood well fortified. There are two monuments
built of marble; the one I have mentioned elegantly
adorned with emblems, and the other a large one,
nearly finished, to the memory of General Washington.
Marble is plentiful; some of the best houses have steps
to their doors and window-sills made of it; I am in-
formed it is brought down the Susquehanna river. The
evenings are very short; it is, after sunset, almost imme-
diately dark, and the further south, of course, the more
so, as the sun rises and sets more vertical and perpen-
dicular, and consequently, is sooner from the horizon.
April 28.—Thermometer 72. Walked up Federal
Hill—a high hill opposite the wharfs, on a neck of land
(on the point of which Fort M'Henry is built) where
signals are given of vessels coming up the Bay, which
can be seen more than twenty miles. Rye in the ear;
clover and grass growing; white-thorn in blossom ;
fields green and scenery delightful where a few weeks
ago the ground was bare, and looked barren and wild,
so quick is vegetation here. I went on board a new
small steam boat, with the paddles placed behind, built
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on purpose to navigate the rapids of the Susquehanna
river; it will not draw more than two feet water when
loaded. A number of Irish and Scotch clearing the
bottoms of the wharfs with horses and machines, and
making new ones. Americans here do but little of the
laborious work; what is not done by slaves and free
blacks is generally done by Europeans; the slaves grow
less in number yearly in this State, as agents are sta-
tioned to buy up all they can for the sugar plantations
at New Orleans.
May 1,–Fine, cool, pleasant, English-like weather:
people all flocking into the country on parties of plea-
sure, called Maying; soldiers out, being reviewed,
shooting at targets for silver cups, &c.
May 7.-Very hot day, thermometer 82 in my room;
came on some thunder and rain, which made it cooler.
On drinking a little cold water this morning it struck
a chill over me; a fit of ague came on, and after-
wards a strong fever, which forced me to bed. A num-
ber of people yearly lose their lives in this hot climate,
by drinking cold water. It is best, after drinking, to
keep up perspiration by walking or some other exercise,
or take a little spirits with it.
May 8,-Thermometer sunk to 68; to-day 14 de-
grees colder than yesterday. The fever took by drink-
ing cold water yesterday continues, and has thrown a
painful humour into one of my feet.
May 18.-Fine pleasant day, not too warm, thermo-
meter 72; thunder storm last night. Wheat coming
on the ear a month earlier than in England. Saw at
market to-day ripe wild-strawberries, green currants,
and gooseberries; green peas 1s. 8d. peck, cabbages Id.
AN EMIGRANT. 39
each, and pretty good lamb at 4d. per lb. I have been
thinking of going back into the Western States, and
have inquired after waggons to send my trunks by.
Saw one from Wheeling, on the Ohio river, and one
from the State of Tennasee, back of Kentucky. Their
horses are generally strong, like our largest coach
horses, and in good condition. Carriage to Pittsburgh
is 7s. 10d. per 100 lbs., 240 miles; a good road, I am
told, all the way, on which regular stage coaches run.
May 21.-Fine and pleasant, thermometer 74. I
had almost engaged with a waggon for taking my
trunks to the west, with an intention of going to Birk-
beck's Settlement, but a carpenter from the west arrived
here yesterday, and is now lodging in the house I am
in. Says he has been sick (ill) out there, and the
country generally is unhealthy; there is hardly a house
but has one or more sick, and otherwise thinks it a
poor place for a person without a family. Pork 1d. per
lb., and labourer's wages 6s. 9d per week only.
May 25,-Bright hot day, thermometer 87 in my
bed-room, the windows all up. In the custom-house,
83; came on a thunder gust, when it sunk to 76.
Yesterday was Whit-Monday; nobody at work; horse
racing and country parties were the order of the day.
Took a long ramble southwards into the country, over
a bridge 600 yards long, thrown across a creek or
arm of the Bay, for horses and foot-men. The bright
glowing atmosphere; the fragrant breeze over the un-
dulating little inclosures; trees, shrubs, blossoms, and
green grass, the latter of which will soon be ready
for the scythe j-elegant houses peeping through the
wavering trees on the brows of the little hills, and a
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large expanse of water, where the wild ducks were
carelessly swimming, and the fishermen tending their
calling in various directions along the Bay, its banks
adorned with fields of grain; crickets singing, birds
chirping, and other objects, would have been enchant-
ing to a mind at ease. On my return, I drank most
delicious water at one of the city springs; there are
several of them in the place truly elegant, with clean,
neat inclosures, and a person to attend each to prevent
nuisances. Water is the general drink here for quench-
ing thirst, and no one that has never been out of our
cool climate can conceive its delicious taste in a hot one.
May 27.-Fine bright pleasant day, thermometer 78.
After looking over the newspapers at the reading room
at 'Change, I took another ramble northward, which I
thought the finest part I had yet seen; but the glowing
brightness of the sum, and the natural beauty of a fine
May day may have heightened the scene. The ground,
which appeared rich, rises into little undulating ridges,
with vales between, covered with luxuriant clover and
grass. Indian corn, ancle high, and several gardens
better cultivated than any I had before seen, with neat
houses and orchards attached. Returned through some
barren woods, where there were plenty of huckle or
hurtle berries, and wild flowers.
May 28.—Very hot again, thermometer 86. Been
eastward to-day from the city; wheat in full ear, apples
of the size of crabs, but likely to be few, the frosts
having killed their blossoms: there were great quan-
tities last year, and very fine, at from 1s. 1d. to 2s. 8d.
per bushel. The water in the Bay is as warm nearly
as new milk. Some green clover cut and brought to
AN EMIGRANT. 41
market, and sold at 64d. a bundle; green peas Is. a
peck, full and getting old. A young Scotchman, from
Canada, here, as boarder and lodger, having put him-
self apprentice to a shipwright, to have 13s.6d. per
week wages first year, and 22s. 6d. the second, to board
himself. He speaks very highly of Upper Canada as
to climate and soil, the kindness and hospitality of its
inhabitants, the cheapness and goodness of land, with
little or no taxes. He resided there four years as a
potash manufacturer, but left it some time ago on ac-
count of the low price of that article in the English
market, and has been rambling through the States since.
On a farm occupied by an Englishman, I saw some
Indian corn planted in continued rows, which looked
very fine, and also some transplanted beets; and a
field of fine white wheat, short in the straw and ear,
but plump and thick on the ground; and some rye
whose ears were very long. Maryland has the cha-
racter of growing wheat of the best quality in the Union,
and Baltimore for manufacturing the best flour.
Great quantities of fine linen shirts made up in Bal-
timore for the South American market; women getting
only one shilling each for their making. The South
American trade benefits the States much, and the en-
terprising inhabitants promptly avail themselves of its
advantages.
June 4.—Rather cold day, thermometer 67. In
England it would be thought warm, such a difference
does use and comparison make. On reading the papers
at 'Change, I see in England, that nothing but forming
companies and speculations are the order of the day,
some to work gold and silver mines, &c. in South Ame-
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rica, cut a canal across the Isthmus of Darien, and join
the Pacific with the Atlantic, &c. &c. Here they are
also, everywhere, cutting canals and forming compa-
nies; going to commence one from the river Ohio to
Lake Erie. A company is also forming to cut one
from the Chesapeak to that river. The different States
appear a little jealous of each other's prosperity, which
acts as a stimulant to outdo the rest in all improve-
ments to attract trade, &c.
June 7.-Fine and very hot, thermometer 87. I am
told it is sometimes 100. Received the long-wished-for
letter, and the news of more adverse fortune; there-
fore it is time to be doing something. I immediately
determined to go to New York, and should nothing
offer there, to Albany, or perhaps onward to Upper
Canada, to which latter place I had turned my attention
of late, in consequence of the information I had re-
ceived from the two young men before-mentioned, viz.,
that Canada was healthy, the climate good, and the
people hospitable and friendly; and, on the other hand,
I had been informed Ohio, and the western States,
were too hot and unhealthy, and the produce of land,
&c. too low in price. But to me there is another and
by far stronger motive for preferring Upper Canada to
the States. In the former I shall enjoy, as a British
subject, every privilege and advantage of the British
constitution, without its burdens, and harassing and
restrictive imposts. In the States, if I become not a
citizen, and take the oath of allegiance, I cannot hold a
heritable property; in fact, I should, as an alien, be
treated with suspicion, if not insult; and to abjure
allegiance to all other governments, and particularly
AN EMIGRAN. T. 43
to the British (as their oath runs), I think no person
with any feeling or spirit could, under any circum-
stances, submit to, while the same advantages could be
had without it.
June 8.—Very fine and very warm, thermometer 90
in my sleeping room. I never recollect its being so hot
in England, still there is a pleasant breeze near the
water. Have been disposing of part of my luggage,
intending to go by the steam-boat to Philadelphia in a
few days. The discipline of the common schools here
appears to be very bad, but I believe it is the parents'
fault in not allowing the tutor to correct their children,
or at least very little; indeed they appear to be under
too little control, even to their parents, through the
principles of democracy perhaps.
June 10.—Still hot, thermometer 92, but a brisk
wind. Vinegar and water, sweetened with molasses, is
much drank in this hot weather, and called switchel, or
“Yankee beverage.” A Yankee is a native of New
England, and is synonimous to a Yorkshire bite in
England. Drank a glass of lemonade at market,
cooled with ice, 1.d.; smaller glasses, #d. When walk-
ing in the heat of the day without an umbrella to keep
off the sun, I perspire excessively, which affects my
head, and otherwise makes me uncomfortable. Stepped
into Peale's Museum, the proprietor an Englishman:
there were a great number of stuffed animals and dried
birds, but all of them in a rapid state of decay through
insects, for the want of proper knowledge how to pre-
serve them, I suspect. Mr. P.'s loquacity informed
me how he had duped the natives, by the introduction
of a tune into his organ, called the Berkshire fencibles,
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as a new tune, by the name of the Baltimore volunteers,
which gave him a great run.
June 11 and 12.—Very hot, thermometer 82 at sun
rise, and 99 in the afternoon.
June 13.—Cloudy and cooler, thermometer 88.
CHAPTER III.
Journey from Baltimore to Buffalo and Canada, in the
Steam-boat, to the Head of the Bay.—By Land to
Philadelphia.-Manners, Produce, and Cultivation of
the Country.—Further Proceedings.
June 14,-At five in the afternoon I started with my
luggage, and after a pleasant run, arrived at French
Town, at one o'clock this morn; till dark it was plea-
sant, being covered from the sun by an awning, and
hardly a ruffle on the water. After eating a cracker or
two (biscuits), and drinking some iced water, we turned
in till we came to shore, where we found the stages
waiting, into which we hurried after fixing our trunks
behind. Coaches in America are like strong gentlemen's
carriages, or hackney coaches, carrying no outside pas-
sengers. The road being quite still, and the sides of
the coach open, (they are of leather, and can be opened
or shut at pleasure), I amused myself by observing the
motions of the numerous “fire bobs” (flies) flashing in
the air like candles. Arrived at Newcastle on the
AN EMIGRANT, 45
*
Delaware, at day break, eighteen miles from our dis-
embarkation. A canal is now cutting across, near
here, from the Chesapeak Bay. Saw some kind of
hedges, like thorn, on our route, and some poor land
and poor crops. Arrived at Philadelphia between nine
and ten o'clock; took breakfast on board, charge 2s. 3d.
—dear but excellent living. The Americans, I believe,
live rather luxuriantly as to variety, in towns, and
generally. In Baltimore, the ship carpenter with whom
I boarded, had a roast turkey once or twice a-week,
fowls, beef steaks, ham, sausages, and a kind of “pud-
ding,” similar to the latter; pies, soup, fish, &c. A
variety of the above formed every meal, and generally
at least three kinds of vegetables, with coffee or tea
at breakfast and supper. Breakfast at eight, dine at
twelve, and sup at sunset in summer, and six o'clock in
winter. Bread baked less, and meat generally cooked
more, than is customary in England. Too many of
the Americans (and also emigrants) are whiskey drinkers
to excess; and though they are seldom seen drunk,
when on a “scale,” or drinking frolic, are often seen
near half-and-half, as it is termed in England; yet
rarely exhibit the boisterous hilarity and noisy mirth,
by singing, &c., which is so familiar to Johnny Bull in
that state. Good rye whiskey Is. to 1s. 2d. per gallon,
corn ditto less. There are brewers in every town that
sell mild new beer; and some old strong beer, brought
from Albany, to be had at the taverns, which is sold as
dear as in England. The Delaware, up which we have
been sailing, is a noble large river, and as fine scenery
on its banks as I have yet seen in America. Through
heat of the weather the water is steaming, milk warm.
46 IN QUIRIES OF
Arrive in Philadelphia, a place the more interesting for
the generous and noble character of its worthy founder;
one may easily discern the sound judgment of PENN, in
his choice of a site for building the city. Far enough
up the river to be out of danger of surprise from an
enemy's fleet; on ground sufficiently high and dry for
health, with an easy slope to the water for convenience of
trade, &c., and the country round rich and fertile.
There are several English families leaving hereabouts,
I am informed, for the province of Upper Canada, to
procure land of government. Took a walk into the
country; the soil in the vicinity of the town is a strong
sandy loam; saw some excellent crops of wheat, barley,
and rye, partly lodged or laired. Wheat will be twelve
or fourteen days before ripe, and rye eight or ten.
People busy with their hay and clover, which are pretty
good crops, but they have stood till they are too old
before cutting, which appears to be a too general prac-
tice where I have been ; but the heat of the climate,
and, consequently, quick growth and ripening of the
grass, necessarily prevent the whole being cut down in
proper order. Engaged board and lodging at the New
England Hotel at 2s. 8d. per day. Nothing particularly
striking in the town; no elegant public springs or mo-
numents, &c., that I could see, as at Baltimore; streets
not so spacious, but more regular and compact than
the latter. The country too flat for show, the finest
object being the river and its opposite shore, about half
a mile across, with a little island in the middle of it.
Steam and team boats continually crossing and re-
crossing. They are double boats, or two placed side by
side, the paddles working between, with a deck across
AN EMIG R ANT. 47
both, to take waggons, carriages, &c. You may drive
into them seated in any vehicle, and out on the opposite
side on coming to shore, without the least danger. A
large bell is rang every time they make the shore, stop
about ten minutes, ring again and off.
June 15.—Fine and moderately hot, thermometer 83,
some few clouds occasionally give relief by interrupting
the rays of the sun. Whilst walking into the country
and about the city saw some fine orchards and large
gardens, which are kept in much better order, and also
the farms, than they are generally in Maryland. Or-
chards appear to bear well every where, even on the
poor thin soils, although the trees on such are, of course,
not large. The markets are well supplied with meat of
a good quality generally. Beef and pork good, veal
excellent and white. Kidney beams 1s. 14d. per peck.
Plenty of young potatoes, but hardly large enough yet.
I have not seen any Dutch turnips. Great quantities
of strawberries and cherries, the last rather dear but
good, 2}d. per lb. I recognise more of the English
features here than at Baltimore. A considerable num-
ber of Quakers, whose clothing is less formal than their
brethren in England. Have been introduced to some
English families, of which there are a considerable
number in this place.
June 16.—Started at six o'clock this morning, in a
steam-boat, for New York; landed at Bristol; then
twenty-six miles by stage, nine passengers in each, the
luggage behind, jolted along a rough road, smothered
with dust, through Trenton, Princeton, Queenston, and
Kingston (in the state of New Jersey); the last three
towns the only relics of monarchy left. Stage horses
48 INQUIRIES OF
pretty good; they change them quick. Taverns slovenly
conducted, like most other common ones in the country.
Took steam at Brunswick again, down a small river;
dined on board, charge high, 3s. 43d, to be sure we
lived well, were the meals not so hurried (bell rings,
a rush—eat—offin a few minutes), fish, flesh, and fowl,
puddings, pies and tarts, brandy, &c. &c.; the fare was
very low, through opposition, 196 miles (26 of them by
stage), luggage included, for 11s. 3d. only. A gentle-
man on board, from Carolina, who had a number of
pieces of native gold from that state, where so much has
of late been found on the surface of the soil, and in
water courses; one of the pieces, he said, was worth
twenty-eight dollars, very fine, and in a shape it might
be supposed to form, on being dropped into sand in a
melted state. There is something striking in the views
of this county, arising probably from the glowing bright-
ness and warmth of the atmosphere, aided by a wide
expanse of water, surrounded by woodland scenery. I
was led to this observation by the beautiful prospects
presented on approaching New York. A bright serene
air, and cloudless sky—a gentle breeze—ships sailing,
others at quarantine—fishing-boats here, steam-boats
there. Houses rising every minute, as we approach,
on each hand, on the eminences and slopes, intersected
with woodland scenery, and enclosures with cattle and
sheep grazing in them. In front the city, with its
spires—the masts of the numerous shipping along the
wharfs, all presented to the sense of vision nearly at
once, caused a most pleasing sensation. An American
passes such a scene and the dullest objects with equal
indifference. Indifference and shrewdness are the most
AN EMIGRANT. 49
striking features in the character of an American. They
are never intoxicated with joy at success, nor depressed
to despondency; defeated in one object, they are plan-
ning and calculating on the success of another; never
at a loss for an expedient; generally content, if not
cheerful; never lose their confidence, or are thrown off
their guard by passion; this nonchalance arises probably
from equality in circumstances and much intercourse by
travelling. But to return,--we landed, and after some
search for lodgings, took my trunks to a tavern in
Albany-street; 6%d, for lodging, and 1s. 1d. for each
meal; five beds in the room I sleep in, occupied by civil
and respectable decent-looking young men, who gave
me not the least molestation. No suspicion was attached
to going to and from the bed-room at any time of the
day, which I think speaks very favourably of the honesty
of the Americans.
June 17.—Fine, pleasant day, thermometer 78. On
seeing an advertisement in a newspaper, for an overseer
to superintend a plantation in a southern state, I made
application, but found several applicants before me—
“Still I think I shall succeed,
But still am disappointed.”
Had a walk through the town and vicinity: it is situated
on the south-east end Mahatten Island, which is appa-
rently about two miles across, and several in length.
North or Hudson River runs on one side, and East
River on the other, at the end of which they join. A
very great number of vessels, of all kinds and sizes,
lying at the wharfs on both sides of the town, and a
great deal of business going forward, more like London
|B
50 INQUIRIES OF
than any other place I have seen. Broadway is a fine
street, as are also some others. Markets are well sup-
plied, but appear to be much crowded. At the back of
the town there are evident marks of an overwhelming
flood. On the highest parts of the island the soil is
washed off the rocks, and huge stones laid bare, or
tumbled together in the ravines. Another such a place
near Trenton, on high land. Almost all the roads lead-
ing to a town in America are full of houses on their sides,
called “taverns,” or “liquor,” “beer and cake,” or
“grocery,” stores. My notice was attracted to-day by
one with a small kitchen garden before it, with a few
benches for seats, with WATERLoo GARDENs in printed
capitals over the gate as a magnet, I suppose, to at-
tract the contents of Johnny Bull's purse. New York
is a place of great trade, and will still increase, it is so
well situated. Open at all times to the sea—at the con-
fluence of several fine rivers, and the canal from Albany
to Lake Erie greatly augments it. The state of New
York is the richest in the Union, and the climate the
most genial and moderate for Europeans. The price of
wheat, flour, &c. here, at Baltimore and Philadelphia,
are nearly the same. As building in summer is always
going on, house-carpenters, brick-makers, and brick-
layers, generally find employment almost anywhere,
except in the depth of winter, at 4s. 6d. to 7s. or 8s.
per day; also shoemakers, tailors, and persons well ac-
quainted with any useful trade, may meet with employ
in some place or other. I determined to proceed to
Albany, and thence, if nothing offers, to Upper Canada,
by canal. A farmer would cut a sorry figure in a store
amongst the Yankees, and there appears to be but
AN EMIGRANT. 51
few other situations vacant, and that occupation un-
certain.
June 18,-On board the steam tug-boat (a boat
tugged along by a steam-boat) for Albany; the fare
was one dollar, or 4s. 6d. one trunk included, 18. 1%d.
for the other; in the steam-boat the fare is higher.
The passengers consist principally of farmers, farmers’
wives, and trades-people, two or three of the former
are “squires,” as they are termed (justices of the peace).
With this company I pass as a Yankeeſ Like the rest
of the passengers I carry provisions for twenty-four
hours, and half a pint of rye whiskey (2d, only), a little
of which, I find, with water, agrees with me better this
hot weather than water alone, or even beer.
June 19, Sunday.—Warm last might and pleasant to-
day. The Hudson river, up which we are travelling,
is a noble stream running between high romantic hills
and mountains on each hand. The Kaatskill moun-
tains are the most conspicuous, making a grand appear-
ance with the clouds flying far below their tops along
their sides. The Chancellor Livingstone, and another
noble steam-boat, two-deckers, past us down; they are
really floating palaces. The steam-boats are larger, and
more elegantly fitted up, than any I have seen in the
Thames; indeed they are carried to excess, more fitted
for voluptuaries than for cool, calculating Republicans.
Arrive in Albany, and stop at a tavern kept by an
Hibernian, for the night.
June 20.—Finding I am not likely to procure any
situation hereabouts, I have determined to continue
westward by the canal (here pronounced canol), in
company with an itinerant bookselling merchant, who
E 2
52 INQUIRIES OF
is going to Canada. He put his books, and I my
trunks, on board a trading boat, and walked on a nearer
way, to see the country and save expense, till the boat
should overtake us. Fare, something less than 14, a
mile for myself and one trunk, and 3s. 4d. for the
other, 75 lb., to Lockport, near 300 miles. The boats
have relays of horses, and go night and day. Albany
is an old, large, and improving place, with but indif-
ferent land about it, yet the trade by the Erie and east
canals ensures great prosperity in trade. Travelled
twenty-five miles to-day, and stopped for the night at a
plain Dutch farmer's tavern, seven miles above Sche-
mectada, on the flats of the Mohawk river, on which, to
nearly the whole extent, the Dutch are settled. Flats
are what would be termed meadows in England; but
there is this difference, in England the meadows in
general are subject to floods, but here in America there
are but few rivers that overflow their banks, their banks
being most high, and till the land is generally cleared,
the woods and swamps preserve the heavy rains from
running off in torrents. The flats of the Mohawk river
in many places are bounded on each side by high barren
hills and mountains, covered with scrub timber, and
brush-wood. The Mohawk flats are considered some
of the very richest land in the Union; they are settled
nearly, if not entirely, by Dutch. It is a fact rather
singular, that the Dutch (as farmers, which most of
them are) thrive best of all settlers; the reason is ob-
vious; they are a close-living, hard-working, frugal
people, and, what most ensures success, they always
settle in companies, and generally on the richest land.
Corn, grain, &c. looking pretty well, and the farms in
AN EMI GRANT. 53
tolerably good order. Green peas just coming in; they,
and other crops, are three weeks later than in Mary-
land. Heard the first whip-poor—will, and the first bull
frog, the latter I at first took to be the bellowing of a
bull at a distance.
June 21.—Very warm to-day, the people say hot; the
high hills keep off the cold breezes from these low con-
fined grounds. Walked thirty-two miles to-day in com-
pany with the merchant, a curious old bachelor of forty-
five, and disciple of Malthus. The canal, which runs
all up the flats near the river, has a good deal of traffic
on it. The boatmen, in general, civil, and even re-
spectable, a contrast to some of that class in England;
but a good number of them are farmers, who carry their
own produce to market, or leave their farms at the least
busy time and go as captains and mates to the trading
boats. Some elegantly fitted up packet-boats, drawn
by three horses on a trot, pass us to-day, full of fine
ladies and gentlemen. There is the same easy indif-
ference, or nonchalance, in the American females as I
before remarked in the males. Some of them are fine
figures, with handsome features, and pretty good colour,
yet but little of the play of the soul. You may admire
their handsome forms, and enjoy their company unem-
barrassed and with corresponding indifference, without
being in any great danger of having a more tender
passion excited. Should much disagreement arise be-
tween husband and wife, they generally separate, and
a newspaper is seldom seen without advertisements
respecting them, warning not to trust, &c.
June 22–Passed through what are called the Ger-
man flats; a pretty well settled country and good land,
54 INQUIRIES OF
where the boat overtook us in which we had left our
luggage, into which we got, where there were twelve or
fourteen passengers already, several of them women,
who occupy all the beds and fore cabin, so we are
forced to be content with the body of the boat, and
spread the blankets (which are plentiful) on the pack-
ages of merchandise to sleep, which is not very dis-
agreeable this warm weather. It has been remarked
that Englishmen generally are the most particular and
fastidious about such trifles on travelling in this coun-
try. The boats are one-third wider than those used on
canals in England, and covered their whole length,
leaving sufficient room for standing erect in them.
Though so far back in the woods, the people are very
similar in their manners and behaviour to those in and
near towns; generally civil, some polite and intelligent;
no awkward rudeness or embarrassment in their beha-
viour; no provincialisms, and but few peculiarities in
their language. All speak the English language plainly,
and mostly correct, with some few exceptions, chiefly in
pronunciation, which they have generally adopted, as
improvements or corrections of Walker—thus, in engine,
acorn, eacellent, and some others, the accent is placed
on the second syllable. Thames is by them pronounced
Thaymes.
June 23.−The canal appears about three-fourths the
size of the Grand Junction in England. The bridges
are nearly all of wood, and too low, not allowing a
person to sit upright on a boat passing them. The
canal is shut up in winter by frost. The water is let
through the locks by a much quicker and easier method
than what I have seen in England, by merely turning
AN EMIGRANT, 5
5
a lever about one-third of a circle. There are several
companies that run “lines” of boats regularly; the
“packet line " fitted up chiefly for passengers, drawn
by three horses, a boy riding one of them and keeping
them on a trot; charge 2% per mile, board, &c. in-
cluded. “Pilot line,” “merchant line,” and others,
carry both passengers and merchandise, drawn by two
horses each, go night and day, (60 or 70 miles in 24
hours) and charge 1d. per mile, and board yourself,
and 4s. 6d. per 100lb. weight of luggage, and merchan-
dise, from Albany to Buffaloe, 296 miles. Towns are
much called after Greek, Roman, and other ancient
names—as Rome, Troy, Camillus, Maulines, Galen,
Utica, Syracuse, &c. At Salina, near the latter place,
are extensive salt works. A great many buildings
made to evaporate the salt water by the sun, with
sliding roofs, and others for evaporation by boiling.
The salt sells for about 1s. 2d. per bushel, and 2s. 4d.
per cwt., very good quality of fine and coarse sorts.
Houses springing up like mushrooms; here and there
a young village or town. The canal crosses the skirts
of some small lakes, and extensive open marshes, and
through some smart towns. Utica, one of the largest
and prettiest, has two or three churches, and other
places of worship, with large and neat houses, some few
of brick, but the greater part of frame, and painted in
various shades of yellow and stone colouring, which
gives them a gay and lively appearance. In some of
these new towns, the streets are as yet only ridged, or
“turnpiked,” in the centre; others are gravelled, but
none, I believe, yet paved. Land worth from 6 to 25
or 30 dollars per acre, or from 30s. to 7l. 10s. Cows
56 INQUIRIES OF
from 21.4s. to 4!. 10s. each; sheep 4s. 6d. to 9s; horses
from 4!. 10s. to 16 or 171.
June 24.—A cloudy, pleasant day. An agreeable
way of travelling, by boat; you can sit and view the
varied scenes of the country through which you pass,
write or read, lie down at your ease, or get out and
walk for exercise when you please. Passed by a small
plot of ground planted with hops, which looked pretty
well. People busy ploughing between their corn, or
maize, (wheat, rye, barley, &c. are here universally
called grain). The people ever since I left Baltimore
are all “guessers” and “calculators,” and on asking a
question, and it be not understood, they say—“how, sir?”
or “how is that, sir?” or “which 7” or “which is it?”
June 25.-Passed through Rochester, situated on the
Genasee river, near some large falls of water, which
work a number of flour mills and other machinery.
This place is well situated for trade, and has thriven
remarkably. There are no locks between Rochester
and Lockport, a distance of 65 miles; nor is the country
much settled, being too wet and flat. Lockport is a
place of some business; five of the locks rise 60 or 80
feet up a rock of blackish hard stone; they are finished
off in a neat, not to say elegant style. People in some
parts of this western country appear to act under little
restraint with regard to the duties of a Christian Sab-
bath; for although no stores (shops) are open, I saw
along the canal, in several places, people loading boats,
carting, &c., and a woman in the boat knitting all day
without exciting any notice or remark.
June 26.—Walked the five miles portage, and gave
1s. 1; d. for the carriage of my trunks. A number of
AN EMIGRANT. 57
people, chiefly Irish, blasting the rocks, and clearing
out the bottom of the canal. Slept at a log-tavern
to-night for the first of the kind, in the bar room, which
had a hole through the roof as a substitute for a chim-
ney ! Paid 3%d. for my bed, which is the general price
in the western country if two sleep in a bed, but mostly
double that if alone.
June 27.-Arrived at Black Rock, a large and smart
village on the Niagara river, 24 miles from Lockport,
and two from Buffaloe, and nearly opposite Fort Erie,
in Canada, at the head of the Niagara river. After
seeing my trunks safe, I walked to Buffaloe, a great
shipping port for the Western States, situate on or near
the Upper Lakes. Buffaloe was burnt in the war, and
some other places, by the British, in retaliation for the
burning and plundering the Canada side by the Ame-
ricans. It is now rebuilt, and is a thriving place. The
wind being brisk and westward, drives down the lake
the big rolling waves, which break on the pier and
beech with a thundering noise. Returned to Black-
Rock, where the ferry is kept, to cross into Canada, it
being the narrowest part of the river (near a mile across)
and rather rapid, and which is made more so by a pier
run in to it on the American side. The water is clear,
and is generally used by those who live on the banks.
The charge at this ferry is 1s. 1}d. There is no town
on the Canada side, only two or three stores or shops,
(“stores” may be distinguished by—dry goods, stores,
hardware, or general, the last keep an assortment of
every thing), a mill, a small church, a few private
houses, three taverns or inns, all having good accom-
modation, to one of which I went for the night.
58 INQUIRIES QF
CHAPTER IV.
Arrival in Upper Canada—Comparison of the State of
each side of Lake Erie—Introduction to Col. Talbot–
Inspection of Lots of Land–Engagement with him—
His Establishment—Modes of Cultivation—Natural
Produce, and Various Places, noticed.
June 28–I am once again under the jurisdiction of
the British government and laws, and therefore feel
myself no longer an alien. Though the Americans, in
general, are civil and friendly, still an Englishman,
himself as a stranger amongst them, is annoyed and
disgusted by their vaunted prowess in the late puny
war, and superiority over all other nations. They as-
sume it as a self-evident fact, that “the Americans
surpass all others in virtue, wisdom, valour, liberty,
government, and every other excellence l’” Yet much
as the Americans deserve ridicule for this foible, still I
admire the energy and enterprise every where exhi-
bited, and regret the apathy of the British government
with regard to the improvement of this province. A
single glance down the banks of the Niagara tells on
which side the most efficient government has resided.
On the United States’ side large towns springing up;
the numerous shipping, with piers to protect them in
harbour, coaches rattling along the road, and trade
evidenced by waggons, carts and horses, and people on
AN EMIGRANT. 59
foot, in various directions. On the Canadian side,
although in the immediate vicinity, an older settlement,
and apparently better land, there are only two or three
stores, a tavern or two, a natural harbour without piers,
but few vessels, and two temporary landing places.
Farm houses there are all over the district, nearly one
on each farm, and probably the farmers, &c. doing very
well. A town cannot be built, as government retain
the land for fortifications. Trade, there cannot be much,
till the upper part of the province is more settled.
Inquired of two Englishmen, who had considerable
farms, if they wanted a person to superintend them, or
knew of any person who did; but no, every person looks
after his own business in this country. The land is a
stiffish black earth, on a rock several feet under the
surface: it is excellent for wheat, clover, and grass, and
is chiefly settled and owned by Dutch from the States.
Left my trunks, and travelled down the level banks of
the wide Niagara river; the roaring sound of the Great
Falls broke on my ear at twelve or fourteen miles' dis-
tance. This wonder of the world, although it does not
come up to the idea I had formed of it by reading
travellers' descriptions, is yet truly grand; the immense
body of water which accumulates in the Great Lakes
above, from a thousand creeks and rivers, is here con-
centrated. From Chippawa it rushes down a sharp
rapid, dashing over huge stones and broken rock (which,
for a moment, appear to arrest its impetuous course),
near a mile before it comes to the precipice, where it is
converged to a comparatively narrow space, when it
pours down over the rock in a sheet, with great force
and noise, amongst the masses of broken rock in the
60 INQUIRIES OF
gulph below, forcing up the spray to a great height, at a
distance looking like steam rising from an enormous
boiling cauldron fixed in the bowels of the earth; some-
times, in clear weather it condenses into a thick cloud,
and is seen more than sixty miles. The sun shining on
the misty spray, forms beautiful rainbows. The water, on
rolling from the abyss below, down the comparatively
narrow but deep chasm it has formed, is white with air
bubbles, similar to the effervescence of soda water.
There is a smaller Fall on the American side, running
round a piece of land called Goat Island. There are
occasional instances of people in boats crossing the river
above the rapids, venturing too near them; and, unable
to stem the rapidity of the current, are consequently
forced over the Falls. There are three large and elegant
hotels, one on the American and two on the Canada
side; the latter standing on a small rise of ground, on
the bank of the river, 150 or 200 feet above the top of
the falls, commanding a fine view of the rapids and
river above. Met some Indians to-day on horseback;
saw numbers of them at Buffaloe yesterday, some in
almost every store, and sitting and loitering about the
doors; numbers of them wear large ear-rings. Saw
one with a wooden leg, and another with one arm:
many of them at a little distance have the appearance
of gipsies; their colour and hair being nearly the same,
but features and dress different. The features of the
Indians rather more broad, and have stronger expres-
sion, more grave in their manner, and less fire in their
eyes; both equally straight in their persons and active,
which arises probably through intermitting exertions
and absence of hard labour. Walked on towards Lake
AN AMERICAN. 61
Ontario, along a nearly level country, for seven miles,
through two small villages, and came to the edge of a
mountain three or four hundred feet high, overlooking
a considerable extent of country on both sides the river,
and the Lake Ontario. The village of Queenston is
situated at the foot of this mountain or ridge, where the
Falls evidently have been, seven miles from the present
one; the river here is amazingly deep at the foot of the
mountain. This village is situated at the head of the
Ontario navigation, and though small has been a very
thriving place, but now in a state of decay; the town of
Niagara, seven miles below, at the mouth of the Niagara
river, having engrossed all the trade, excepting the
forwarding of merchandise up, and produce down from
the upper part of the province. Queenston is in a
pleasant and very healthy situation, and the country
pretty well cleared back; the houses are in a state of
dilapidation. There is the small but neat and healthy
village of St. David's, two miles back of hence. A
steam-boat lay at the wharf, which runs to various parts
of Lake Ontario.
June 30.—Returned again through Chippawa to the
Ferry. People busy getting up their hay; crops are
light, through the unusual drought : great plenty of
cherries along the road side, in the orchards, of which
every passer-by takes what he can eat without let or
hindrance, or its being thought a trespass. Two or
three stages run between the Falls and the Ferry,
during the summer months.
July 1,–Stopping with a farmer, a native of Canada,
till I can look about for a situation. Cherries are abun-
dant this year, as also fine large red currants, some of
62 INQUIRIES OF
which they preserve, and dry others. Wild gooseberries
and currants near the woods, but not very tempting.
Wild raspberries plenty, and tolerably good. Plenty of
grapes also, but not yet ripe. Saw a number of dead fish
along the beach, one upwards of twenty pounds weight,
killed against the rocks by the violence of the waves in
a storm. Also a few of the only species of a duck that
breeds here, called shell-duck; they live on fish, and are
not very good eating; one of them had thirty-five young
OI) eS.
July 4.—Fine and warm, or rather hot. The Ame-
ricans celebrating their independence by firing guns,
cannon, &c. Grass rather a light crop, through the
uncommon dryness of the season, not having been any
rain of consequence for seven or eight weeks; still
the pastures are not burnt up, nor is the ground one
quarter so much cracked as it would have been in Eng-
land with the same drought. The dryness of the ground
causes the atmosphere to be more heated than usual,
yet there has been only two or three days I thought too
hot, and in these I was helping the farmer and his son
get up some hay without being much inconvenienced,
as there is often a fine cool breeze from the lake in hot
weather.
July 24,-Left the above farmer, who had treated
me friendly, and wished me to call on him, and make
his house my home, whenever convenient. Travelled
up the Lake beach, in company with a man from the
Talbot settlement, whither I am proceeding to take up
a lot of government land. Good walking along the
white sandy beach, except in a few places round points
of land where it is rocky (some of it lime stone), or
AN EMIGRANT. 63
rough with coarse gravel. Travelled thirty-one miles
to-day, and stopped at a miserable log tavern to sleep;
my companion having remained behind at a farmer's to
make some shoes. This part of the province is settled
chiefly by Dutch, most of them a sturdy, old fashioned,
and honest race of people; high sand-banks back the
beach, covered with pines, juniper, and other ever-
greem trees and shrubs. Behind these sand-banks are
marshes and swamps in some places; in others, and
behind the swamps, is a rich black soil on a lime-stone
rock; and in places, a considerable quantity of loose
stones are scattered over the surface. It has evidently
been overflown, at some remote period, by the lake.
Saw a woman washing on the beach, her family of
small children playing around, and rolling on the sand;
her husband looking after the yoke of oxen, that had
drawn down on a sled the washing tub and pot to boil
the clothes in, &c. This is a common way in dry sea-
sons, when good soft water is not to be had near home.
X passed a remarkably peaked hill to-day, in the form
of a sugar-loaf, which name it bears; it is covered with
timber to its very top. It is a good sea-mark for sailors
on the lake. Some of the people about here have a half
Indian appearance; dirty habits; sallow, thin, visages,
and meanly dressed; living in the woods, surrounded
by swamps, they are half hunter and half farmer.
July 25.-Walked on for Grand River, or Ouse—
“Remote, unfriended, melancholy, slow,
Or on the woody banks or beech below,
Or onward where the free Canadian boor,
Welcomes the houseless stranger to his door.”
A heavy shower coming on, I took shelter in the Naval
64 INQUIRIES OF
Depôt. Several old vessels of war lie sunk in the
mouth of the river rotting, and a number of cannon
and cannon-balls strewed about the beech. This depôt
consists apparently of one well-furnished, low, but
rather large house, for the officers, and twelve or four-
teen small log-huts as barracks, for about eighteen or
twenty soldiers and sailors. There is a small island
near called Gull Island, under which is one of the few
places on this Lake shipping can run into in safety for
anchorage in bad weather. A large tract of rich land
on the river is still in possession of the Mohawk In-
dians; saw a party of them to-day at camp under the
shade of some trees, making baskets; they had plenty
of fish in their canoe, which they had speared. After
leaving Grand River, I passed through eight miles of
Indian woodland without a house, and came to Evans'
Tavern, one of the best on the Lake banks I am told,
though but indifferent; it is kept by an Irishman, a
captain of militia, where I stopped for the night.
July 26.—Arrive at Paterson's Creek (small rivers
and brooks are in America improperly called creeks),
the beginning of the Long-Point Settlement. It is a
dry sandy soil, thinly wooded with low white oaks, and
is what is here termed plains. The land is not very
rich, but will bear good crops for several years, and
if manured, and plaster (gypsum) applied, of which
there is great plenty at Grand river, and is now begin-
ning to be used, and a proper rotation of crops intro-
duced, it would be some of the most useful and valuable
land in the province: it is well watered with constant
spring streams. On the greater part of these “plains”
the settler has only to cut up here and there a little
AN EMIGRANT. 65
under-brush or shrubs, and girdle the trees (chop a
ring round them through the bark to stop the rising of
the sap, when they die), when he may put in the
plough; it will require a strong team to break it up the
first time, but afterwards can be ploughed with one
yoke of oxen, or a “span’’ of horses. The few trees,
which stand twenty or thirty or more yards apart, when
killed by girdling, do not in the least injure the crop,
nor much inconvenience the ploughing. There are
some rather extensive farms hereabouts, which raise
(grow) large quantities of rye, corn, and buck-wheat,
chiefly for distilling, and also wheat, since clover, which
it bears remarkably well, and gypsum have been intro-
duced. But it is evident their system of management
is too deteriorating for this or any other soil. Rye,
corn, wheat, and oats continually, with only a few peas,
and a little clover intervening, and then but seldom;
when clover is sown, it is too often on the ground in a
bad state, lying two or three years and becoming full
of grass and rubbish, in which state it is, perhaps,
ploughed up for wheat, &c. There is but little fal-
lowing of land, nor indeed is it necessary under a pro-
per system. Land, if ever so foul, can be easily cleaned
with a corn crop. There are no tares, turnips, or
cabbages, to pulverise and ameliorate the soil, but
which I think might be introduced in a small way to
advantage; and although the two latter will not stand all
through the winter (except Swedish turnips), yet there
is seldom any frost to hurt them till after the middle of
December, when they might be put into cellars made
in the ground for the purpose. Rape or cole-seed (a
small patch of which I have seen looking tolerably well,
F
66 INQUIRIES OF
but evidently sown too late) I believe would answer
well on this soil, and some others, for its seed, as oil
mills are introduced into the province; I believe it
would grow to perfection on new, or rich old land; in the
latter case it might be sown after wheat, rye, barley, or
peas, as they are off the ground generally early enough.
Sunflowers also have been sown for their seeds for
poultry and oil, and I think are deserving notice, as
they grow remarkably luxuriant, evidently produce a
large quantity of seed per acre, and require little
trouble in their cultivation. Every person busy getting
the harvest in; good hands for cradling the grain in
request, 3s. 4d. in cash, or 4s. 6d. in trade, with board,
per day; there is but little advance of wages given in
harvest from other times. Up to the present time
almost every payment has been made in trade—that is
an exchange of articles of grain, cattle, or goods from
the store (shop).
July 29,--Stopped a day or two with an agreeable,
respectable working farmer (as they all are in this coun-
try) from Nova-Scotia, who wanted to engage me to
stop and help him twelve months for the share of one-
third of the produce of his farm, and treated as one of
the family. He was going to put in (sow) 40 acres of
wheat this fall (autumn), and calculated they would
produce 1000 bushels, besides other grain and corn;
but I declined. Farmers, captains, and esquires, rich
and poor, none think it a disgrace to work, even for
each other; yet, except in hay-time and harvest, there
is but little steady work from morn to night. It has
been said, that, “in America, if you want any thing
done, you must do it yourself,” which, generally, is
AN EMI GRANT, 67
true, as you cannot always hire others; this is pecu-
liarly the case in new settled parts, where every one
can get land to himself. This is one reason customs
differ from those in England. If you want grist ground,
you must take it in your waggon or sleigh to the mill,
and even into the mill, and out again when ground;
the same at the distilleries and stores; goods are seldom
delivered even to the door; every person in business
acts as if conferring a favour.
I had been directed to Colonel Talbot, who has a
grant of two townships from the government, with a
view to having a “lot,” and in proceeding to his resi-
dence passed through several miles of pine wood to Big
Creek, and twelve miles further of wood before coming
into “Talbot-street,” as it is called, having houses on
each side, at about one-fourth of a mile distance from
each other, or about eight in a mile, one on each lot of
200 acres. This lower part of Talbot-street is on a
bank of sand, or pine ridge, of barren soil. There is
some good land on each side of this ridge, but rather
flat and swampy. Three parts of the houses are empty,
the inhabitants having “cleared out” for better land,
I “guess;”—but those that remain say in consequence
of “sickness” (illness). Stop often to get a drink of
water, or butter-milk, and inquire about the country.
A person is always welcome in every house to rest him-
self, and need not hesitate to ask any question, as he
will be answered generally without reserve. A stout,
jovial, and rather liberal Yankee working miller, who
has been in the province three years, overtook me to-
day, going to “draw'” land of the Colonel, so we tra-
velled on together. On first coming into the wilderness
F 2
68 INQUIRIES OF
it is rather depressing to the spirits; but the mind soon
recovers by the cheerfulness and absence of discontent
in the settlers, and the prospect, although at first per-
haps slow, yet certain, of growing prosperity. From the
two Otter Creeks, and Catfish to Kettle Creek, the land
appears pretty good, of Sandy and clayey loams, but in
some places is much broken by ravines and gulleys. We
arrived at the new small village of St. Thomas, rather
pleasantly situated on the banks of Kettle Creek; it
has a church, two taverns, a mill, two stores, and an
academy, &c.; and on July 30th, we arrived at Colonel
Talbot's. As the Colonel takes no fee for his trouble in
giving out the government land, and people are con-
tinually going to him for information respecting new
lots to draw, (choose), as well as exchanging them
(sometimes repeatedly) for others, it cannot be sur-
prising that he should sometimes assume a severity of
manner not natural to him, to prevent vexatious appli-
cations. The house in which the Colonel lives is situated
on the banks of the lake, upwards of 100 feet high, and
commands a fine view of the banks and shore of Lake
Erie for twenty miles down, and also the Colonel's Creek,
winding through the “flats” below. The Colonel was
not at home when we arrived, but soon returned, and
after procuring a list of some vacant lots of land thirty
miles above, we proceeded forward from Port Talbot.
It may not be unnecessary to inform my readers, that
port, and shipping, and the name of a township, and
a town, de facto, are not necessarily concomitants in
America. We stopped in Ireland at night, five miles
from the Colonel's, with a farmer who came from Penn-
sylvania, a thriving and comparatively a forehanded
AN EMIGRANT. 69
one. After leaving “Ireland,” as it is called, we
passed through three miles of woods into the “Scotch
settlement,” the settlers of which have only fifty acres
of land each, which was given by the Colonel for their
clearing out the street in front of their lots. This street,
or road, runs through his two townships, Dunwich and
Aldborough, onward to the head of Lake Erie. The
Scotch settlers are Highlanders and very hospitable.
July 31.—Arrived at Clear Creek, a fine little stream
of spring water, arising about two miles from the lake,
and one from the street, in the township of Orford.
Stayed the night with an Englishman from Northum-
berland, who has been here six or seven years. He
suffered considerable privations at first, commencing on
his lot at the beginning of the winter; he had first to
build a house, and then work out for provisions for the
family. He has since built himself another house and
barn, dug a well and a cellar, planted an orchard, and
cleared forty or fifty acres of land, and is now com-
fortably situated and thriving, although having only
30s. or 40s. left on his first arrival.
Aug. 2.-Accompanied an Irishman and sons with a
conductor into the “Bush’’ to look at some lots of land,
part of which we found both rich and dry, and have
taken a note of their numbers. The lots are laid out in
parallelograms, or long squares, of 100 or 200 acres
each, having an end abutting to a road or street, with
small posts bearing their numbers at the corners. I
next proceeded towards the township of Howard and
Harwich, to view some vacant lots of land, and in my
way was hospitably entertained by a new settler, gra-
tuitously, although he was indigent; but learning that
70 INQUIRIES OF
the land I was going to was swampy, returned to Clear
Creek. I found musquitoes in this trip, but not so
troublesome as I had supposed they would be, and
there were also a variety of snakes, all harmless, except
the copper-head and rattle-snake; but it is seldom that
persons are bit by these, and old residents do not dread
them, as many vegetable antidotes are well known in
the woods; in fact, they are acquainted with the name
and virtues of every plant, while new comers are years
learning the names of trees only.
CHAPTER. W.
Engagement with Colonel Talbot—His farm, Garden,
and Orchards described—Journey to Fort Erie—The
Country, its Produce, and Resources noticed.
Aug. 9.—Returned to Colonel Talbot's, who recom-
mended my waiting until the survey of the township of
Orford should return from the land office at York,
where it had been sent for inspection, and the reserves
marked out, when I could have an early choice, to which
I assented: and as the Colonel's foreman, or overseer of
his farm, soon after left his situation, I engaged to suc-
ceed him. The harvest this season is earlier than usual,
through the long-continued drought and hot weather.
A Canada summer is much like the finest and hottest
we have in England: but I am told the heat increases
AN EMIGRANT. 71
at a distance from the lakes. The Colonel's wheat and
oat crops fair, the peas good; but too dry for potatoes
and corn.
Aug. 14.—“Hauling” peas, that is, drawing them
on waggons to the stack.
Aug. 16.—Rain all day, with the wheat and oats in
the field yet for want of hands, the harvest in the
neighbourhood being nearly all finished for the year.
The Colonel has about 150 sheep, shut up in a pen at
night to preserve them from the wolves, (this is not
done in old settlements); they are of various breeds,
some with and some without horns. Twenty-five milch
cows; four yoke of oxen broken in, besides one yoke
killed this fall; fifty or sixty head of young cattle,
which run in the woods all the summer; twenty-three
weanling calves; four horses of the nag kind, with
uncut long tails, the only sort in this country, and are
generally pretty good, but want a little more blood;
four sows and a number of store pigs, which also get
their living in the woods through the summer, and
during the winter, when there are plenty of nuts and
acorns. Fattened forty-two hogs this fall in an open
pen, with peas given them on the ground, and water in
troughs, in about eight weeks. Filled thirty-five barrels
of 200 lbs. each with them; worth about 3. 3s. per
barrel. There are some good hogs a few miles from the
Colonel's, yet the Berkshire breed would be an acqui-
sition, as also Leicester sheep. Cows appear to be
suited to the woods, with a middle-sized carcass, and
horns not very long. All their stock might be im-
proved by proper selections. A few good blood stallions,
and two or three large cart horses would probably pay
72 INQUIRIES OF
for importing. Colonel Talbot has a garden pretty well
stocked with shrubs, fruit-trees, &c. in better order than
most in America, yet not like a good common one in
England. There are cherries, plums, apricots, peaches,
nectarines, gooseberries, currants, &c., also water, or
musk melons, and cucumbers, fine and plenty—cab-
bages and other vegetables thrive very well. A patch
of Swedish turnips (or ruta-baga) of a good size, not-
withstanding the dry season. A few hills of hops at
one corner of the garden look remarkably well; they
are gathered at the beginning of September. There is
also a few bunches of English cowslips, but none wild
in the woods. There is a species of the violet in the
fields, with less fragrance than the English ones. The
Colonel has likewise extensive orchards; some of the
fruit fine, yet the great proportion raised from apple-
kernels, and remain ungrafted; although they bear
well, their fruit is small and inferior to those grafted,
except for cider. A great portion were suffered to
hang too long on the trees, until the frosts came and
spoiled them. The beautiful little humming-birds are
numerous this season. Sowed wheat from the begin-
ning to the end of September, and a little in October.
A large flock of wild turkeys seen near the woods, and
came to the farm-yard, where the men shot several of
them; one weighed 15lbs. after being picked. There
are plenty in the woods, of the same breed as the tame
black turkey, and excellent eating. Cut the “corn”
about the 20th of September, which was much eaten by
the racoons and black squirrels, which are extraordinarily
numerous, troublesome, and destructive, from the scar-
city of nuts and mast in the woods this season.
AN EMIGRANT. 73
Dec. 10.—The summer and fall has been remarkably
dry, and still continues. Many mills cannot grind for
want of water. November was mild and pleasant,
sometimes too warm, and the weather is yet mild. Been
ploughing for peas and spring wheat, on the furrows of
which they are to be sown next spring without more
ploughing. The person with whom I left my trunks at
Fort Erie, through a misunderstanding, neglected to
forward them, which caused me a journey on foot about
140 miles, and back in a schooner as far as Long Point
Bay, where I landed on the 18th of December, on
which day there came a heavy fall of snow and sharp
frost. Long Point Bay, like most other bays on these
Lakes, is formed by a sand bank, having a slight bend
thirty or more miles down the Lake. This peninsula
varies in width from a few rods to a mile or two; much
covered with fine timber, scrub pines and cedar only.
There is a river (Big Creek) empties within the Bay,
running through a considerable tract of sandy plains
and pine woods. The frosts generally close the navi-
gation of the lakes earlier than this time, and the
vessels are laid up in harbour. After leaving the
schooner, passed through marshes half-leg deep in
water and snow, with a Yankee who came in the
schooner, with whom I left my trunks to be forwarded
with his own. He was just returning from the States,
with his mother and her family, to settle in Canada.
Nearly one-half of the inhabitants of this province are
from the States, or their descendants. All the Dutch
came from there, and numbers are coming in yearly, on
account of the cheapness and goodness of the land, and
general healthiness of the climate. Stopped at a Dutch-
74 INQUIRIES OF
man's for the night, who has a large frame house not
entirely finished (houses in new settlements are often
two or three years before completed). This industrious
man has 200 acres of good land, which he says he paid
800 dollars for, by the skins of musk rats he killed in
the marshes, and sold for their fine furs, at 2s. 3d. each;
they are getting much less numerous, through being
continually hunted; they are killed by thrusting a spear
in their hills, which are like mole-hills. My host also
keeps a seine, with which he takes a considerable quan-
tity of white fish, and others in the spring and fall.
White fish are larger and finer eating than herrings,
and sell at about 27s. to 32s. per barrel of 200 pounds.
In the marshes about the Bay grows a long coarse grass,
which the settlers cut for hay at the fall of the year,
when the water is low.
Dec. 19.—Proceeded to Otter Creek, eighteen miles,
chiefly through woods and by occasional beginnings of
settlements. This will be a fine country, not only for
its dry and good soil, and consequent healthiness, but
for its excellent pines for lumber, and the fine streams
for machinery to cut it up. Many saw mills are erected
in the neighbourhood, and in operation; and several
schooners employed transporting the lumber to Buffa-
loe, Cleveland, and Detroit in the United States, where
it generally fetches good prices, as there are but few
good pineries on the American side of the lake; it is
worth from 15s. to 35s. per thousand feet at the mill,
and from 358. to 31. 10s. in the States, after paying the
duties (4s. 6d. per thousand feet, I believe).
Dec. 20. —Left the Lakes, and pass through the
woods to Talbot-street again, passing a few solitary
AN EMIGRANT. 75
houses and a mill or two in my way. Stopped for the
night at Wheeler's tavern (one of the first frame ones
in the Street). An Indian, from a neighbouring camp,
came in with two “hams” (haunches) of venison, and
a deer skin, having killed two deer, and wounded three
others that day, and killed nearly forty this season.
The tavern keeper gave him one pint of whisky for
each ham, and two pints for the skin only; and that
nearly half water; but liquors are their bane. On the
Cat-fish Creek, between the Otter and Kettle Creek, a
little back from the Street, is a settlement of Quakers;
there are several others about the province, one at the
back of Fort Erie; they are mostly from the state of
Pennsylvania.
Dec. 21. – Arrived at Port Talbot again: snow here
not half an inch deep, but sharpish frost. Salt selling
at five dollars per barrel, or 22s. 6d. ; at Buffaloe only
9s. Tea in the latter place 4s., here 6s, or more. Salt
nearly all comes from the States, and as there is so
much used by the universal practice and necessity of
giving cattle, sheep, and horses, some every week or
two, it, with tea and leather,” drain all the cash from
this part of the province: there are importation duties on
* Tea is now imported into Canada, direct from China, in
an East India ship yearly, and is as cheap as in the States,
which has stopped the smuggling from thence, and, in some
instances, it is reversed. With regard to leather, the pro-
vince in a few years will be able to supply itself, as the coun-
try gets full of cattle ; and it is becoming a practice for the
farmers to kill one or more each, at the beginning of the
winter, for their own use, besides others they sell. No new
settlement can raise sufficient at first, as cows are then pre-
served for breeders until old. Sole leather selling in Buffaloe
at 13}d. per pound, in York 15%d., and up in the West 22%d.
76 INQUIRIES OF
each, but they are often evaded. There are salt springs
in various parts of the province, but not worked for want
of capital, and more for want of energy and encourage-
ment. As yet there have been but few, very few,
people of capital, settled in this country; certainly, I
think, for want of knowing its superior advantages. If
individuals will not, or are not able, to establish works
of this kind, which are beneficial to the community at
large, government would do well to offer premiums for
the purpose. A premium was offered for the first paper
mill, and one was soon erected, to the advantage of the
proprietor as well as the public; another, or two, have
been erected since. The practice of giving salt to
cattle is attributed to the freshness of the air, on ac-
count of the great distance of the ocean; cattle and
sheep are all fond of it, and will take it from the hand;
deer will go miles to the salt spring, or “licks,” as they
are called. What seems to confirm the opinion of the
freshness of the air is, that iron will hardly rust, as
scythes, &c. are often hung in the open air from one
year's end to another without receiving injury, merely
tarnishing a little.
Jan. 1, 1826. – Been a few very sharp frosty days,
with a little snow, which has put the people all in mo-
tion, sleighing, cuttering, &c. A sleigh is drawn by
two horses abreast, here called a “span;” a cutter is
drawn by one horse: they are both made alike as to
shape; the box, or frame, is made light, and painted
green or blue mostly, and some fancifully; they are
something in the form of a chariot, fixed on two run-
ners in the shape of skates, made of wood, and shod
with steel or cast iron. With the commencement of
AN EMIGRANT. 77
this year terminated the original regulations for grant-
ing land to settlers, and by an Order in Council new
rules were set forth, to be continued for two years,
which are noticed in the Appendix. The winters of
Canada have been a terror to Englishmen; but though
colder, they are more pleasant, and the inhabitants do
not suffer so much from their severity; their dryness
has less effect on the human constitution, and even
cattle, than a raw damp air several degrees warmer.
Cattle require less fodder, and are much fed upon wheat
and oat straw, which they eat up clean, and do well, if
they get enough of it. The winter is the most lively
part of the year; when there is about four inches snow
with a frost, sleighing is universal, for business or
pleasure, from one end of the province to the other. A
span of good horses conveys two or three persons in a
sleigh forty or fifty miles a day with ease, and they
often go sixty or seventy. With warm clothing, a fur
cap, and a bear or buffalo skin over the back and feet,
it is a pleasant and very easy way of travelling, enli-
vened by the numerous sleighs and the jingling of
bells, which the horses are required to wear; in this
season many of the Canadians have quite a military
appearance. During the winter I took a journey to the
Mill, at St. Thomas's, and to have the horses shod,
which will last the year, as the roads do not wear them
out quick. The days in length are more equal at all
seasons, and the sun has more power. Some wolves
made their appearance about the premises during the
foggy nights, after a dead hog; the dogs retreated to
the house much frightened, but they very rarely attack
the human species.
78 INQUIRIES OF
Feb. 12. — It has been a steady frost the last three or
four weeks, so that the farmers have got their hauling
pretty well done. Last winter there was no sleighing,
no snow, and hardly any frost in the western part of
the province.
Feb. 26. – It has been quite moderate weather of
late, and yesterday and to-day mild and thawing.
March 5.-Foggy open weather, thermometer 48 ;
Snow nearly all gone, and ice breaking up along the
lake shore. The noise caused by its breaking, when
driven by a south wind on the shore, is like the various
noises arising from the rattling of carriages, and the
bustle of a large town on approaching it. In the depth
of winter, in the sharpest weather, the trees, on the sun
rising on them, snap and crack like the report of pistols
in all directions, though there are no cracks to be seen.
Grass and wheat begin to shoot, hens lay, &c. Been
sowing some Timothy grass seed, and the ground very
tender, it being flat and not properly drained; the water
stands as long as there is any frost to prevent it sinking
into the sub soil. The frost has penetrated from three
to five inches in open places, but in the woods hardly
through the dead leaves.
March 12. — Frost nearly out of the ground, and ice
off the lake; a good deal of rain; foggy weather of late,
the latter of which is unusual. The sugar harvest now
commences; parties take large kettles and go out into
the “sugar bush,” (those parts of the wood which con-
sist chiefly of the sugar maple tree). A notch is cut or
a hole bored into each tree, and a small wooden trough
placed to catch the sap, when it is carried in pails or
drawn in barrels placed on an ox sled, to the “Camp,”
AN EMI GRANT. 79
and evaporated by boiling down to the proper consist-
ences, when it is run into various fanciful shapes in
moulds, or stirred while cooling to make it into powder,
like muscovado, for sale, or use in the family, selling
from 4d. to 6:#d, per pound, or 6d. to 1s. New York
currency (in which trade is generally done in the
western part of the province), while in the eastern, it is
in Halifax currency, 18s, sterling to the pound, or 5s.
to the dollar. When it is a good season (sharp frosts
at night and sun warm in the day), on an average each
tree will yield twelve gallons or more of sap, producing,
on evaporation, near three pounds of sugar; some fami-
lies making from 1000 to 3000 pounds in the season, if
it be a good one, which lasts three or four weeks gene-
rally. Maple sugar is considered wholesome, and if
well drained from molasses, is nearly equal in grain and
taste to the West India Muscovado.
March 19. — Been three severe cold days this last
week, and a snow storm, which made a little sleighing,
but it is gone again, with rain and thunder. Employed
in mending the seine for fishing, making ladders, drag-
rakes, and a roller; the two latter are novelties, people
ask if the last is to thresh grain.
March 26. —Some frosty and cold, and some wet and
mild days, and thunder, of late; thermometer has been
as high as temperate, and down below the freezing point.
April 2. — Fine, pleasant day, and has been pretty
much so all the week, yet some frosty nights. Went
to the village for whisky, and for two new cast-iron
ploughs (cast at Long Point Furnace, their price 21.
each), and have the wrought-iron ploughshares laid,
which are done only once a-year, the ground being so
80 INQUIRIES OF
free from stones and gravel the irons wear but little. A
new iron furnace, and forge, establishing on Otter Creek,
forty miles below here, where good hands get thirteen
dollars wages per month and board now, and fifteen
dollars offered for the summer, payable chiefly in their
casting ware.* The Colonel has his thrashing all done
by the flail, but a great deal of the grain in the province
is trodden out by either horses or oxen. A man with
four horses will tread out thirty bushels, or more, in a
day, which does very well for grain that is used in the
distillery, but is too dirty, though often done, for flour
for the merchant, and baking in the family. When flail
thrashing is hired, the thrasher gets one-tenth and his
board; and as the dryness of the climate makes it thrash
well, one man often thrashes from eight to twelve, or
even fifteen bushels in a day. Millers are allowed by
law, for grinding, one-twelfth, it has been one-tenth I
am told; but some wise-acres, who thought it was not
enough, petitioned for one-twelfth !
April 8.-This week has been partly wet and cold,
and partly fine and pleasant. Sowing spring wheat,
with clover, and Timothy grass, on land that was
ploughed last fall; it harrowed pretty well considering
the wet undrained state it was in. Ploughed with two
yoke of oxen at each plough, yet most people use only
* Iron ore plentiful and good in various parts of the pro-
vince, chiefly found in swamps, on sandy land; and forges
and furnaces are now so common that iron and cast ware is
plentiful, and moderately cheap. Wrought-iron, which, if
well made, is very tough and good, fetches its price, and
mill machinery cast is about 2%d. per pound. Stoves, pots,
kettles, &c., at an advance in proportion to extra workman-
ship, &c.
AN EMIGRANT, 81
one, except in breaking up new land. Sheep began
lambing. Pigeons, in great flocks, going out daily
northward; some people, with nets and decoy pigeons,
will catch several hundreds in a day, when they some-
times take only their breasts, and salt them down in
barrels, and make beds of their feathers. Turned the
calves out of the yard to grass. The one, two, and
three year old cattle go to the woods, and do very well
on the wild leeks and onions, &c. Only the milch cows
and horses have any hay now, and the sheep a few oats
in the sheaf in the morning.
April 15.—Two or three rather severe frosty days at
the beginning of the week: one morning seventeen
degrees, the next at thirteen only above zero, when
the next it was as high as fifty-three; these fluctuations
arise by the change of the wind from north-west to south-
west. The severity of two nights killed several lambs,
but have yet as many as ewes. Wolves last night bit
a calf's tail off, and otherwise lacerated it behind, and
would have killed it, had not the oxen been with them.
Oxen will drive any number of wolves, and even throw
down the strongest fence, with a strange noise to get at
them, when a calf or a cow is attacked. Began sowing
peas (a white sort) 2% bushels per acre, many people
sow much less: the early maple and grey peas, I think,
would answer much better here, as peas are mostly
grown for hogs only. There is a kind of dwarf kidney
beans (white) sown in the fields, and eaten in winter,
which are very good, better than peas, and I think
would thrive well in England. Pigeons very trouble-
some, both on the peas and spring wheat; two boys
employed to keep them off. Used the new roller on
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82 INQUIRIES OF
the wheat and meadow, made entirely of wood, which
answers well. Sowed a little Swedish turnip seed in
the orchard. Cows troubled with the hollow horn,
never heard of it in England. But the most destruc-
tive complaint incident to cows and oxen is the mur-
rain: the attack being sudden, they are often dead
before found. There are two species of this disease,
the bloody and the dry murrain. It appears to be an
affection of the liver, or rather the blood, which is
abstracted from the heart and blood vessels to the liver
and bladder, and evacuated, while the animal lives,
through the latter; and in the dry murrain the blood
is nearly or quite dried up. When the complaint comes
on, they have a dull sleepy appearance, and great pains
and trembling as it proceeds. I thought it might be
caused by the want of sufficient salt, as some cattle
appear more subject to it than others; yet I am told
there are numbers of cases, where cattle have as much
salt as they will take. It is supposed to be caused by
the sharp frosts: the remedy is to bore a hole with a
gimblet into the horns, about three inches from the
head, when wind, and sometimes blood, issues out.
April 22.—This last week has been cold, and the
spring is later than usual; fields hardly look green
yet. Spring wheat just coming up only, having been
three weeks in the ground. Sowed oats, and more
clover and Timothy grass, and pecked and levelled the
land (a very uncommon thing in America); sowed
three bushels of oats to the acre (more than is sown in
general), with four or five pounds of clover, and as
much Timothy grass. Timothy, or cat's-tail, as it is
called in England, is not a good grass to sow with
AN EMIGRANT, 83
elover, as it is not fit to cut so soon by a fortnight, and
throws up no latter or after math. Some of the better
sorts of rye-grass, cocksfoot, or sweet-scented vernal
grass, I think, would be much better; but they are
not introduced into use here at present, and little atten-
tion is paid to improvements. Clover, even by itself,
answers admirably on a clear tilth, and will last well
in the ground for six or seven or more years, yet it is
not sown by one farmer in half a dozen in this western
part of the province; even Colonel Talbot, I am told,
never had any but once before, which was suffered to
stand till dead ripe (like all grass here) before cutting,
when the cattle would not eat the hay, and it therefore
was condemned. It is getting into general use at Long
Point, and the seed sells from seven to eight dollars
per bushel, or about 35s. per cwt. Ploughing up new
land for the first time, that was chopped and cleared
several years ago; rough work, amongst roots, &c.
Have sixty lambs dropped, which are strong and
thriving. Two sheep and lambs left out of the pen
last night, by mistake, when either a dog or wolf killed
one of the sheep. Many dogs I believe kill sheep here-
abouts, through their being used to hunt racoons and
deer. Hauled the seine yesterday in the lake, and
caught nine maskinonge (a large fish, very like a pike)
from five to thirty pounds each.
April 29–There has been several days heavy rain,
which is not uncommon, as, with the exception of
thunder showers, it generally lasts for a longer time than
in England. The fruits, wheat, and grass begin to bud;
and on hauling the seine every day or two, we take a
variety of fine fish in great numbers.
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84 INQUIRIES OF
May 6.-This has been a stormy week and mostly
cold; but one very warm day, thermometer 71 in my
sleeping-room at noon; generally from 48 to 62. Peas
up, and pigeons done coming. Ploughing prevented by
the water standing on the land, in what are termed
cradle-holes, formed by trees being blown up by the
roots, and are found only on a wet, or a loose soil. The
spring later by three weeks than the last. Whitethorn
just budding; grass grows but little; cattle live hard;
working oxen eat much corn; sheep done lambing;
heard the wolves howl last night in the woods for the
first time.
May 13,-A warm growing week; thermometer 65
this morning, at noon 81. Vegetation is now rapid,
and the woods begin to assume the livery of spring.
The wind has taken its fine weather summer courses—
blowing off land at nights, and off the lake at days,
which tempers and purifies the atmosphere. Sent 200
bushels of wheat to the “still,” to have seven quarts of
whisky per bushel for it; three, to three and a half
gallons are made from a bushel of wheat, corn, or rye.
Potatoes and pumpkins can be distilled, but are seldom
used.
May 20,—A warm and dry week, except a thunder-
storm, which cooled the air. Finished sowing oats, and
been ploughing for corn. There is little peach and
apple blossom this season, but other fruits set well; and
a bed of asparagus in Colonel Talbot's garden is very
good. The woods abound with the notes of the well-
known bird “whip-poor-will,” and many others, which,
though not harmonious, are cheerful; the musquittoes
are numerous in and about the woods, but none in the
houses, or on the clearings.
AN EMI GRANT. 85
May 27,-Dry, warm weather; vegetation wants
rain; thermometer has varied from 60 to 75. Planted
the corn; which is done thus: after ploughing and
well-harrowing the ground, parallel furrows are run by
the plough three or four feet asunder, straight across
the field, and sometimes intersected; when the planter,
with a little bag of corn before him, (something like
bean-setters in England), and a hoe, proceeds along
these furrows, and drops, at from three to four feet
apart, two, three, or four grains of the corn in one
place, and slightly covers them with the hoe; some
prefer planting in the furrows, others between them,
according to the dryness of the soil, or the season. The
quantity of seed required is only about one peck per
acre; corn is sometimes planted on the furrow (or sod,
as it is here called) of new-ploughed grass land, and
does very well. Washed the sheep in the creek, and
ploughed ground for potatoes. The Colonel has been
to the village of St. Thomas, to the Anniversary Dinner
held in honour of himself in establishing the “Talbot
Settlement:” it is generally well attended by store-
keepers, and people of various trades and callings, as
well as the more respectable farmers. Milk will now
hardly keep sweet, some days, from morning to night,
through having a bad “milk-house” (dairy) situated
above ground and without shade.
June 4.—The last two days foggy, but no rain, which
is wanted. This is “training day,” when the militia
meet at appointed stations, near home, throughout the
province, to be trained, some with guns and some with-
out. I need not say they learn but little, when the
reader is informed this is the only day in the year they
86 INQUIRIES OF
meet, and then not half of them, perhaps; and nearly
one-half of their officers know as little of military exer-
cise as themselves: it is merely a “frolic” for the
youngsters; nor is it necessary to train, except in pros-
pect of war speedily coming on. All males between
the ages of eighteen and sixty, with few exceptions, are
subject to the militia duties. Those between the ages
of eighteen and forty-five only are called out in ordi-
nary cases. Some Indian corn coming up, and some
yet dry in the ground for want of rain; oats up, and
grow apace; peas on the bottom or meadow land look
well; those on the uplands too dry. Finished planting
potatoes, and hoed the first set ones: they are planted
thus; being cut as in England; three or four of these
cuttings are dropped together in one place, then the
soil hoed over them into a “hill,” 2% feet apart each
way This is the only method that can be used on
new-cleared land among the stumps, and before it is
ploughed; but this method is adhered to when there
are no stumps, or necessity for it, which I think an
injudicious practice.
June 5-Sheared the sheep to-day; the Canadians
shear the belly and neck, and then tie the sheeps' legs,
and shear along them, or rather any, or every way, and
are not nice about their appearance when finished.
One Canadian sheared nearly fifty. The Canadians
are generally active, or smart as they term it, in which
they pride themselves, and generally at work strive to
outdo each other in expertness; but they do not like
long, and steady hard work, yet at times submit to it,
and in general are able to endure it. Castrated the male
lambs, and cut all their tails at the time of shearing.
AN EMIGRANT. 87
June 6.-The thermometer to-day 81 : it has been as
high here once before this season; but by a Montreal
paper, I see it has been at 88 there some time ago.
Clover getting on the head. I have found some
bunches of vernal-grass, and some of cocksfoot (the
latter here termed orchard-grass), the seed of which
was brought from England some years ago, and scat-
tered in the fields; both of which look well, particularly
the former. The Colonel has also a bunch or two of
good sainfoin in his garden. Some vessels of late seen
sailing up the Lake for the first time this season.
June 10.—The last has proved a very hot week; but
a thunder storm last night has cooled the air: thermo-
meter to-day 68, but has been 75 and upwards all the
week. Not quite enough rain for potatoes and corn,
but it has done all other things good: winter wheat
looks well, and is coming on the ear. Began cutting
clover to-day; a fair crop, but sown rather too thin on
the ground (only two or three pounds per acre). The
blossoms of the wild grapes, growing about the fences,
perfume the air with their pleasant odour; something
like mignionette. Have twenty cows calved, and milk
plenty.
June 18.—Some rain and a cool week: thermometer
55 to 67. Finished mowing the clover; some of it laid
or lodged—about 25 cwt. per acre: got it up and
stacked it; in which we mixed salt as an experiment.
Hay and grain are carried together, on waggons or
sleds (the latter without wheels), which is properly
called hauling. Waggon wheels are strong and light,
the tire being an entire ring, which strengthens the
wheel; the body (or box, as it is called, and properly,
SS INQUIRIES OF
as it is nothing but four boards fastened together by
hooks or pins, in a long square form) can be put on or
taken off at pleasure: a kind of frame, not much unlike
an open sheep crib, is put on for carrying. Two young
men, just arrived from England, came and hired them-
selves to the Colonel at forty-five shillings per month,
to live in the house and to work on the farm.
June 24.—Been plenty of rain of late. Yesterday a
thunder storm hung nearly the whole day in one posi-
tion, about two miles off; it thundered and rained all
the time; yet no rain with us.
July 1–The weather fine and temperate, with little
rain. Fruit and vegetables ripen well, and are plen-
tiful. As the month advanced, some hot days in suc-
cession, during which the harvest was got in ; the
Timothy grass pretty good, but the Indian, or wild
grass of the poa species, a poor crop to mow. In
foddering cattle in winter no hay knives are used,
generally; but the top of the stack thrown off until all
used; being but little or no rain in winter, it does not
take any damage. Colonel Talbot has just received a
sample of long wool from Lincolnshire, and intends
procuring some of that breed of sheep, as he says
government have removed all restrictions respecting
the exportation of sheep. I think the Leicester sheep
better adapted to this country in every respect, they are
not so liable to get entangled in the woods with their
wool, or to get cast on their backs, requiring less food
and a shorter pasture, and being more active to leap
logs, &c. and yet a sufficient length of wool; but
southdowns, with regard to subsistence, would do better
than either, and perhaps in some other respect (a few
AN EMIGRANT. 89
at least), as finer wool is getting more in request.
Wool is from 1s. 14d. to 2s. 3d per pound, if sold; but
the settlers either send it to a carding machine (one or
more of which are to be found in every district of the
country) to be carded, for which twopence or threepence
per pound is charged, and then spun at home by the
families, and perhaps wove, as many farmers keep a
loom in the house; or else it is sent to the little factors
to be made into cloth, for coats, trowsers, &c.; one
half of the cloth produced from the wool is retained for
making, the other is returned, which part is generally
in rather a greater proportion than one yard of cloth to
two pounds of wool. Is it not singular and peculiar to
this country, that sheep never have the scab, or the
maggot? nor have I heard of any rotting ! Still it is
not properly a sheep country, till more cleared, except
on the plains, and there but few are kept. Generally,
through the new settled parts of the province, each
farmer has from five or six to twenty or thirty, and in
some instances to fifty or sixty, but rarely more.
July 22.-Cradling the wheat, and reaping that
which has been knocked down with the rains. Peas,
oats, and spring wheat nearly ripe.
July 29.—A cool week : thermometer about 70—
mornings rather cold; winds north-west at night, and
south only in the days. Finished cutting and getting
up the winter wheat; some of it a large crop, thirty or
more bushels per acre. Cradling the oats. The Ca-
nadians are expert at cradling, and will do, for a short
time, from two to three, or even four acres per day,
according to the weight of the crop, one person tying
up into sheaves after them.
90 INQUIRIES OF
August 5.—Another mild week; yesterday and to-day
the hottest: thermometer at noon 82, when a short but
sharp thunder gust came on, and the thermometer sunk
immediately. Cut spring wheat and housed it; not
good, too thick on the ground—two bushels and a half
per acre sown. I believe the Talavera wheat would be
an excellent spring wheat, as it generally answers best in
warm seasons in England. Thousands of long large flies,
similar to the English dragon fly, but a little smaller, are
flying about the fields; they are called musquitto hawks,
on account of their killing and living on those insects.
August 12.—Very hot, and no wind: thermometer
83; two hot days preceding. At the beginning of the
week, the thermometer was at 52 only. Hooked and
stacked the peas; those growing on the bottoms or flats,
a very heavy crop, some of the straw from six to nine
feet long, and well podded, Cutting a second crop of
clover, about 23 cwt. per acre; it would have been an
excellent crop for seed, it was so well headed. Millions
of flies (called May flies in England, but here June
flies) along the lake shore, and to half a mile distance,
smothering every thing, they are so numerous: it is
said they only live one day, when they settle on some-
thing in the evening and die; the next morning a
young one bursts out of the old one's skin.
August 19.—It has been a hot week: thermometer
ranging from 72 to 85; no rain, but showers flying
about. Stacked the second crop of clover. Clover
only wants once turning in the swarth, if the crop is
large, to make into hay; and if light, and grass, none
at all, only lying a day or two, and then got together
into rows and stacked. The beavers have eat down
AN EMIGR. A.N.T. 91.
several small trees, some inches diameter, in the last
year, along the side of the Cole Creek: they are a
small sort, and but few of them left now.
August 26.--From this date to the second week in
September was remarkably fine weather, the thermo-
meter ranging between 58 and 76, and all agricultural
business went on as well as could be desired. Near the
creeks and woody swamps the cattle are annoyed by
large flies, which bite them so severely as to draw
blood. Pigeons again made their appearance in large
flocks, as also wild turkeys; partridges, larger than the
English breed, and quails, less than those of Europe,
are also numerous. The Canadian farmers, in general,
never thatch their 'grain; all kinds are tied up into
sheaves, and made into small stacks, with the middle
kept full, the butts out and inclining downwards, to
shoot the rain; but I scarcely need add, it is ineffectual
to keep it dry and from sprouting; yet it is but of little
consequence while they use it themselves, or in the dis-
tillery; but the Welland Canal will induce them to
raise more wheat for exportation, and then it will be
essentially necessary to thatch and preserve the grain
in the best possible order.
September 9. –Started on foot westward to Bear
Creek, thirty miles, to look at a lot of land, in company
with a neighbour who is going there to settle. On our
road some settlers were clearing the street through a
two-mile swamp. This is not a good system, to give
out lands for the settlers to clear the public roads, as
the swamps are never taken up; therefore the roads
remain unopened, or the other settlers near must go
and clear them, as well as their own; and as nine out of
92 INQUIRIES OF
ten of the first settlers in the woods have only their own
bodily exertions to depend on, they find enough to do
the first year or two to build a house and barn, and
clear a few acres to grow something to live on, without
cutting and clearing public roads. Crossed from Talbot-
street to the “Big-bend” of the river Thames, eight miles
through an entire wilderness, having only a slight track,
owned by Colonel Talbot: there are numerous such
blocks of wild uncultivated land in the province, which
have been like fetters to the country's prosperity. A
most judicious tax has since been laid on such wild
lands, although violently opposed by the pretended
friends of the people. This tax ought to be high
enough on those wild lands that are situated in town-
ships partially settled, to compel their owners to either
improve, or sell them to those who would, which is
nothing but just. The settler, as he improves his own
land, has the more taxes to pay, at the same time he
is enhancing the value of this wild land, without any
cost or trouble to the owners. The river Thames is a
fine stream, about thirty or forty yards wide, never
overflowing, confined in banks ten or fifteen feet high,
out of which, every little way, issue numerous fine
springs. It is navigable for schooners for twenty or
thirty miles from its mouth, and as far again for boats,
in the spring. The flats, which in some places are ex-
tensive, are the richest land in the province; the soil in
some parts a loamy fat clay, covered by a rich black
mould, very similar to the fertile Vale of Aylesbury, in
Buckinghamshire; in other places a sandy or gravelly
loam, dry, rich, and well watered with springs. In
passing through a new settlement in the woods, the
AN EMIGRANT. 93
traveller is welcomed in every house; but perhaps he
may have occasionally to sleep on a straw bed, on the
floor before the fire, with a blanket or two over him,
and in the same room the whole of the family live and
sleep, perhaps the only one in the house; for eating,
he has bread, or cake, and butter and potatoes, or
“mush-and-milk,” if for supper (ground Indian corn
boiled in water to the consistence of hasty pudding,
then eaten with cold milk). It is the favourite dish,
and most people are fond of it, from its wholesomeness
and lightness as a supper meal. Indian meal is also
sometimes made into cakes, which are called Johnny
cakes, and perhaps some meat; this is the living gene-
rally of the first settling for a year or two, by those who
bring little other property into the woods but their own
hands, with health and strength; and with these they
appear the most independent and contented people in
the world, as
“No contiguous palace rears its head,
To shame the meanness of their humble shed ;
At night returning, every labour sped,
They sit them down the monarchs of the shed.”
At this time of the year the water in the river is mostly
low, and may be crossed at the rapids with high boots.
Pass down the river along the road leading from the
head of Lake Ontario, through Oxford, Westminster,
and Delaware, to Sandwich, above the head of Lake
Erie; also over the site and ruins of the late Moravian
Indian village, and got some apples from one of their
small orchards; some Indian boys there, one of whom
showed his dexterity by shooting single apples from the
trees with his bow and arrows.
94 INQUIRIES OF
The Moravian village was destroyed in the war by
the American Indians, and has since been built on the
opposite side of the river. It is said Indians never
build on the spot where one has been destroyed, think-
ing it would be opposing the Great Spirit, as He, they
say, would not have suffered it to have been destroyed
if in the right place. These Moravian Indians are
civilized, live in houses, and cultivate as much land and
raise as much stock as the white settlers. Speak pretty
good English, and assume, in part at least, the dress
and manners of the white settlers, and by whom many
are much trusted and esteemed. A minister of the
Moravian persuasion is settled among them.
September 10.—Cross over from the river at Corn-
wall's Mill, where we slept last might, to Bear Creek,
five miles, mostly dry good land, yet some swamps.
The flatness of this western part of the province is the
cause of the swamps: a greater part of them are made
by the beavers forming dams across narrow water
courses, between two little risings of the ground, thereby
backing the water over large pieces of level land above
them, which in many places has destroyed the trees,
and left an open prairie, or wet meadow, which, gene-
rally, would be easily drained by merely cutting through
these beaver dams. There is a string of swamps on
each side of the river Thames in many places, between
the flats and the rising ground, where the water springs
out. To drain these, some general plan ought to be
adopted, not only to recover the rich land now covered
with stagnant water, but to destroy the chief, if not the
only cause of agues, so prevalent in this neighbour-
hood. Bear Creek is a fine stream of clear water,
AN EMIGRANT. 95
running parallel with, and about six or eight miles
from the Thames, and about two-thirds of its size, and
is navigable nearly as far up as that stream from Lake
St. Clair, into which they both empty. The land on
Bear Creek in the township of Don, or Done, is now
settling; and, generally, is of an excellent quality and
dry, not so clayey as on the river flats. There is in
the bottom of the creek, in many places, a hard slaty
rock, some of which will burn, and is supposed to cover
a bed of coal. There is some lime-stone also. In one
of the shallow rapids, I saw two large stones of the size
of millstones, embedded in the bottom of the creek, per-
fectly round, and flat on the upper surface; but I believe
rounded on the other side, with a groove on the upper
sides of each, within an inch of the rim all round, about
the breadth and depth of those made in the millstones;
but no others. It is evident they have been formed by
human hands; but for what purpose I cannot tell, ex-
cept for grinding grain. The Indians camp much on
the creek, and say it is the best fishing and hunting-
place they lately had, and are sorry they have sold it.
There is a fall of water in this creek in the township of
Done, of six or seven feet. It is an excellent place for
mills, but its neighbourhood is as yet unsettled. The
Indians are just returned from Sandwich, whither they
had been to receive their annual gifts or presents from
government, of blankets, guns, knives, tomahawks, &c.
&c. which are generally bartered immediately for a
little whisky, &c. The timber on the flats of the Creeks
is very tall and straight, with little underbrush, indi-
cating the richness of the land. Two kinds of ash
timber here I had not seen before, called blue and
96 INQUIRIES OF
hoop-ash; both very tough, and the latter well adapted
for making hoops, whence it derives its name. I am
told there are very fine large hops growing hereabouts.
As beer is coming into use, hops can be cultivated to
advantage, as they thrive remarkably well; and some
raised in the province sell from 10d. to 2s. per lb. Corn
is seven or eight feet high, and pumpkins (Americans
call them punkins) are very large, nearly as much as a
man can carry. Pumpkins are cut in slices, and dried,
for making pies in winter; they are also excellent for
fattening cattle and milch cows in winter, superior
I think to any turnips, and give beef a fine golden
colour; they must be preserved in cellars from the
frost. They are generally sown among the Indian corn,
and answer very well, as they do not injure, nor are
injured by it. Saw six acres of new-cleared ground,
with its first crop on; viz. corn, oats, peas, kidney
beans, turnips, cabbages, cucumbers, melons and to-
bacco, and all very fine. The owner said this first crop
would pay for clearing the land, and all other expenses
attending the crop. Tobacco is becoming quite a staple
article of produce in these western parts of the province.
I am told there are several hundred acres of land in
tobacco towards Amherstburgh this season: while it
continues to be used so generally, and I fear exces-
sively, it will pay the cultivator much better than any
grain crop. Land here adapted for it (rich sand or
loam) producing from eight to fifteen cwt. per acre, and
selling to the merchants at from 11, to 11, 12s., or 11.15s.
per cwt. according to quality and demand at home.
Black slaves, who have run away from their masters
in Kentucky, arrive in Canada almost weekly (where
AN EMIGRANT. 97
they are free), and work at raising tobacco; I believe
they introduced the practice. One person will attend,
and manage the whole process of four acres, planting,
hoeing, budding, &c. during the summer. Called on
a respectable family from Hertfordshire; I mean an
orderly, honest, decent, industrious, and therefore an
improving family. They had resided several years in
the States, from whence they came to this place.
Crossed the Thames again, and passed down it a few
miles; some fine cleared farms hereabouts, with the
stumps of the trees rotted out, but are, apparently,
managed in a slovenly manner. They belong chiefly
to merchants in Sandwich, and elsewhere, and are let
out in shares; the owners getting one-third, and
the tenant two-thirds of the grain “raised” (grown)
thereon ; the houses and barns are also in a dilapi-
dated state. Some good apple and peach orchards,
which bear the finest fruit in the country; ungrafted
apples finer than half the grafted ones in England.
Cider from 4s. 6d. to 9s. per barrel; or take two empty
barrels at the time of cider making, you have one of
them back full. An English farmer of property has
been about here lately, looking out a cleared farm to
purchase. Old cleared farms, with houses and barns,
on the flats, worth from 35s. to 2. per acre. A lot of
uncleared land on Bear Creek flats was lately sold for
9s. per acre, and generally can be bought for ready
money at 4s. or 5s. per acre. Passed a man digging a
mill-race at the side of a rapid in the river, and a large
quantity of timber cut out just by for the mill; he is
doing it all himself, having no money to hire with, and
his neighbours tardy in helping him; as he told me he
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had expected fourteen or fifteen the day before. It is
a very general practice for settlers in the new parts
helping, and even in some instances doing the whole of
the work, in making mill-dams, for something to eat
and drink only while doing it. Although the land is
rich enough for any thing, yet there is nothing sown
but wheat, corn, and oats, and a few peas: no clover,
or very little at least, which I am confident would grow
in the greatest luxuriance; wheat often several years
successively, then without sowing any grass seeds, it
remains in its rough state, when up comes the wild
grass and lies a few years, when it is again ploughed
for the same deteriorating rotation. There appears no
energy in the people for improvement; a small couch,
or twitch grass spreads in these ill-managed farms,
which might with little trouble be eradicated. Some
of the great wheat farmers half starve their cattle in
winter, as they are too idle to get any hay; and
although government have offered a premium of 25l. to
those who may grow the most hemp on not less than
five acres (and it would thrive admirably), no person
has hitherto claimed this bounty. But the government
have been deemed dilatory in their proceedings, and the
people supine, so that the upper part of the province
has been out of the reach of trade or commerce; and
what little has been carried on across the lines, has
been mostly done by Indian smugglers, who are not
annoyed by the custom-house officers. It is not un-
likely that the Welland Canal may cause a great im-
provement.
September 12–Crossed the river to Talbot-street,
fifteen miles of wood, to a small settlement on Howard
AN EMIGRANT. 99
Ridge, which is a rich dry soil, well watered and
healthy; but a canal or good road is wanted from hence
to Rondeau, or Round O as it is called, a distance of
sixteen miles, which would save the present route of
ten times of that distance to a market for produce.
Lake Erie has few natural harbours, and as yet but few
are made. I have arrived once more at Clear Creek,
where there are mills standing many years unfinished,
one belonging to a land-surveyor; and that class get
possession of the best lands, which they will not part
with at any reasonable rate. There are mills enough,
but they are frequently stopped for want of water, and
grist must then be carried thirty miles to be ground,
while there are probably plenty of springs in the imme-
diate neighbourhood without mills, but they are in
many cases on the government reserves for the crown
and clergy. Overtook a “nigger” and his boy, just
come from Kentucky, where he took French leave of
his master, and brought a horse, which he sold near
Detroit. There are some hundreds of these people set-
tled at Sandwich and Amherstburgh, who are formed
into a volunteer militia corps, and trained to arms.
Sept. 16.—Warm of late, the last two nights rather
cold. This morning the thermometer 53, and at noon
at 71. Cut the corn and set it up into shocks without
binding it into sheaves. The method of doing it is thus:
with either a sharp short-handled hoe, or a sickle, in
one hand, you put the other round one bunch, or what
grows on one hill, and chop it off close to the ground,
when it is set up into shocks, of two or three armfuls
together, and a piece of a stem wrapped round the top
to prevent their being blown down; after having stood
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100 INQUIRIES OF
a week or two, they are dragged round a centre, and
the husks stripped from the ears by people sitting in a
circle; the husks are thrown in a heap in the middle,
and the stalks tied into sheaves and again set into
shocks, to remain till quite dry before being stacked for
fodder. The ears are picked up in baskets made for
the purpose, put into waggons, and drawn to cribs made
of small sapling poles, twelve or fourteen feet long, and
notched and crossed at the ends by short ones, four or
five feet long, laid alternately to the height of six or
seven feet, and covered over with slabs rent out of logs,
and laid with sufficient inclination one way to shoot off
the rain. The corn ears are generally shelled by hand,
but a much more expeditious way is to thrash them on
a barn floor, with a flail; one person will thrash twenty-
five bushels in a day, and a thrashing machine 500 or
more. There are no thrashing machines in the western
part of the province, but I have heard of a few at the
east. There are dressing-machines (mills they are here
called) in general use. Should emigrants bring out
thrashing machines, I would recommend two-horse
portable ones, as more adapted to this country than
larger; but perhaps miniature models would be better,
as castings are easily procured, moderately cheap, and
to have the frame-work done on the spot would be a
much less expense. I sowed last May about a rood of
ground with three pecks of Indian corn as an experi-
ment, to stand for hay, which was cut and carried in
July. Cattle are very fond of it, and in seasons when
fodder and hay are likely to be scarce, it might be sown
to advantage, any time in June; but the great quantity
of saccharine juice the stalks contain, requires consi-
AN EMIGRANT, 101
derable time to dry it sufficiently for stacking, to prevent
too much heat, or moulding. The produce would be,
on good land, I think, three or four tons per acre: it
leaves the ground in excellent order for wheat, and I
think it might be sown for that purpose to advantage,
or for soiling hogs and cattle, in England. Since my
return I have seen some corn that has ripened in
England, and though it is small in the ear compared
with what it is in America, and evidently will not
answer as a seed crop, yet, for the above purpose, and
the green ears for boiling, it will answer very well;
boiled green ears, with butter as a sauce, or with meat,
are considered a delicacy by some. Corn is a very
useful article, both in the family, and for feeding hogs
and oxen, and although it requires considerable atten-
tion and trouble in hoeing, and ploughing between the
rows, husking, &c.; yet these processes leave the land
in excellent condition for wheat, or for oats, to sow
clover with ; and the husking may, I have no doubt, be
rendered unnecessary, by letting it stand till perfectly
ripe and dry, when the ear with the husk may be
stripped from the stalk; the latter may be then cut and
tied into sheaves and shocked, and the former carted
directly to cribs till wanted to thrash; it is said they
will not keep in the husk, but if they are carried quite
dry, and put into narrow cribs, I am confident they
will.
September 23.—We had a very smart clap of thunder,
with some rain, which improved vegetation; and by
this period fruits have all ripened, and there are con-
siderable quantities of wild grapes, called thorn plumbs,
the size of a bullace: the orchard produces about 200
102 INQUIRIES OF
bushels of apples, and the potatoes are plentiful, many
being raised for exportation.
October 1.—A beautiful day, with a serene sky and
still air; and the gullies and ravines covered with
flowers the most beautiful; the shumac, a tender shrub,
growing ten feet high. There are also great quantities
of nuts, which prevent the corn being devoured by the
racoons, squirrels, &c. and keep the hogs in good
order for the winter.
October 8.—Very fine week: thermometer this morn-
ing 45, at noon 60, about which it has been all the
week, with a slight frost one morning. Killing beef for
the winter; ploughing for spring; digging potatoes,
&c. Potatoes, when dug, are thrown into heaps, on
the level ground, about ten to thirty bushels in each;
covered first with a coat of straw, and then the dirt is
shovelled up all round and thrown upon them, about
six inches thick. One of the men while digging found
two heads of Indian arrows, made of flint, on the site of
an ancient Indian village, where pieces of coarse
earthernware, stone tobacco-pipe bowls, &c. are often
discovered.
AN EMIGRANT. 103
CHAPTER VI.
Departure from Colonel Talbot's—Road making, and a
Settler's Establishment described—Capabilities of the
Country, and Manners of the Residents noticed—
Arrival at Ancaster, and Journey to York.
Oct. 14.—Some rain, but generally fine and pleasant
through the week; thermometer varying from 55 to 63.
Grass grows, and looks like spring, but nuts and leaves
begin to drop foom the trees. Employed husking corn;
the neighbours round used to come for a bushel of apples
per day and victuals, but none came this year, as
apples are become more plentiful and cheaper.
Oct. 21. — There has been one or two frosty morn-
ings this last week, but days warm : thermometer 50.
Leaves mostly off the trees, except the beech and a few
others. By the newspapers I learn that the wheat sent
from this country to England is not in good condition,
but very foul, which is in no degree surprising, when
the method of cultivation and stacking I have described
is considered. I am fully of opinion, that with the
same management as is in use in England, or as near
as circumstances require, this province would, generally
speaking, produce fully equal, and, I think, superior
wheat to the formey. Colonel Talbot's wheat is a good
sample this year, and I weighed some in the spring, of
last year's growth, which weighed 62 lbs. to the Win-
chester bushel.
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Nov. 1. – Been generally mild and pleasant, with
some little rain of late; thermometer 50 to 60. Having
given Colonel Talbot notice that I should quit his ser-
vice, I left him this day to proceed to York, and found
it bad walking on account of the late showers, particu-
larly in places where the road had been recently thrown
up. On first making roads through flat swampy places,
logs are cut about ten or twelve feet long, laying them
crosswise, side by side, through the above places, which
as they are left round, and little or no dirt upon them,
are abominably rough; but along the “street” they are
getting them up, and ploughing the sides, and with a
kind of large shovel, having a handle (called a scraper)
and a yoke of oxen, the dirt is drawn into the centre
and rounded, which is called “turnpiking.” Four men
and two yoke of oxen—one yoke and two men to
plough, and the other to scrape, will do as much work
in this way, where there are no obstructions, as fifteen
or twenty men in the same time, by the ordinary way
of digging. The bottoms of the canals are often done
the same way, and always ploughed, I believe; and in
that case shovelled into carts, or wheelbarrows, seldom
or ever dug. In the evening I was overtaken by an
elderly man, who procured me a lodging, and I was
hospitably received by his family; they had every thing
comfortable in their log-house, and were among the
earliest settlers of the State. The settlers in the woods
appear to be the most independent and contented peo-
ple, in their way, I ever met with ; perhaps with only
a log-house unplastered, containing two rooms, one
above and one below, sometimes only one below, with
a large open fire-place and a log fire. The chimney
AN EMIGRANT. 105
back and hearth built of stone picked up about the
farm; a boarded floor unplaned, perhaps hewed only, if
too far from a saw mill; one or two small glass sash
windows, and sometimes, at first, none; doors and
gates with wooden hooks and hinges. A few articles of
common household utensils, two spinning wheels—one
for flax and one for wool, with reaves of spun yarn
hung round the inside of the house on wooden pegs
driven into the logs; an upright churn ; (women always
milk the cows and churn); a gun, or rifle; one, two,
or more dogs; an oven out of doors at a little distance
from the house, sometimes built of clay only, at others
of brick or stones, often placed on the stump of a tree
near the house, and a shed covered over with bark of a
tree, or slabs to keep it dry; a yoke of oxen, some
young steers, two or three cows, eight or ten sheep,
perhaps a horse or a “span;” a sleigh waggon, plough
and harrow, the latter, perhaps, with wooden teeth, form
all their riches except the land, and they often raise 100
or 200 bushels of wheat, 80 or 100 of corn, some oats,
peas, and perhaps buck wheat, and a patch of flax, and
fatten three or four hogs, and a cow, or yoke of oxen
in a season, besides seven or eight more store pigs, and
a sow or two. But those who brought property with
them, or were fortunate in having a large family of
sons, industrious, and keep from the tavern, perhaps
have got a good frame-house, or, at all events, a good
frame barn, 80 or 100 acres of land cleared; grow 400
to 600 or more bushels of wheat; other things in pro-
portion, with two or three yoke of oxen, eight or ten to
more cows, twelve to twenty or thirty fat hogs, two to
five horses, (half of them or more brood mares), &c.
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At the age of twenty-one, the sons generally leave their
parents, if not before, and probably marry, and either
buy a cleared farm, or go into the bush, or new wild
land; the last they will do without regret or hesitation;
indeed some prefer it on account of cattle doing so well
through the summer in the woods, and the great crops
new land produces, and as to the trouble of clearing it,
a native would generally rather do it than fallow the
same quantity of ground.
November 2. —Bid my friend good morning, and
thanked him for his kindness, as he would not accept
of any remuneration for my supper and bed; and pro-
ceeded on my journey. Called at a respectable tavern
to breakfast. The landlord was gone to the mill; the
mistress to a neighbour's, gossiping; and no bread in
the house nor flour, until the landlord came back.
Went on to the next house, a private one, where I
procured some fried meat, boiled potatoes, tea, bread
and butter, for which they could not be prevailed on to
accept any thing! Called on an English farmer from
Gloucestershire, who lives on a rented farm near the
Catfish Creek. He had been in good circumstances in
England, but was reduced, like thousands of others,
and must have felt severely. I was glad to find the
old man hearty and cheerful; he was dressed in his old
country breeches, hauling up some logs for fuel, with a
yoke of oxen. He has some good cows, and pretty
good sheep. He has a small patch of hops planted in
his garden, whose bines have run up the poles very
high. Overtaken, to-day, on the road, by an English
gentleman on horseback, from the county of Sussex,
now residing in Ancaster, who accosted me, as he said
AN EMIGRANT. 107
“he supposed I was his countryman.” He is taking a
circuit round the country, to obtain subscribers to a
weekly newspaper he is going to publish. He speaks
very highly of the country for health, &c., and for the
means of procuring a living by almost any kind of
business, labour, or employment;-he has travelled
through much of the States. Several Englishmen
hereabouts, and indeed all over the provinces, per-
haps one-sixth or one-eighth of the whole population.
Stopped at Loder's. Some smart lasses came in during
the evening, who live just by, most of whom took a smoke
with the landlord and the landlady, passing the short
black pipe from one to another | Disgusting as this
practice is, it is not so much so as one in common use
in the Eastern part of Maryland, of girls taking a “rub-
ber” of snuff—that is, taking as much snuff as will lie
on the end of the forefinger out of a box, and rubbing
it round the inside of the mouth !
November 3.—Passed through the Pinewoods again,
and breakfasted at Umstead's tavern; as usual, fried
beef or pork, pickles and preserves, tea-cakes and
butter—charge ls. 6d. New York currency, or about
10%d., which is the general charge in the west; and
3}d. for bed. From this place I travelled over new
ground, to Big Creek; sandy hills and swampy hollows,
and apparently but an indifferent soil generally; but,
on asking a man who was letting off some water from
the road near his house, if the land hereabouts was not
poor? he said, I have no reason to complain; I get
good crops, and if I had my health I should have done
well enough—saying, the place had been very sickly
for some years until this, which had been healthy. The
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many swamps easily account for sickness in the neigh-
bourhood. It is rather extraordinary, that I have not
met with a single person who complained of having
bad land, and but few that appeared discontented.
Some higher and better land on its banks than I have
come through of late. Sovereign's tavern is pleasantly
situated on a small eminence a little east of it, at the
lower end of Talbot-street, and one of the best in its
whole length, kept by a civil, and what is here called a
clever, obliging person, son of a Dutchman. It is a
good new farm-house, with barns and other outbuild-
ings, and a shed to bait travellers' horses under—and
all being painted and white-washed, cut a dashing
appearance at a distance; but when you approach you
may see it is only a Canadian, or I might have said an
American tavern, with some of its windows broken,
and the holes stopped with fragments of old clothes.*
There is too, generally, in some of the best houses,
both here and in the States, a kind of genteel shab-
biness and inconvenience about them; but here it is
quite a new country, and we must not be fastidious,
as it is daily improving, all the way I have come.
Some good barns have been erected, and in various
places good houses, within the last two years. Indeed,
if we consider the great difficulties the first settlers
had to encounter, without roads for their communica-
tion, and consequently without a market for their pro-
* Glass of American manufacture is much used, and being
very thin and brittle is easily broken, which, perhaps, is a
sufficient apology for the above unsightly objects in a new
settlement, when perhaps several miles from a store where
glass can be procured,
AN EMIGRANT. I 09
duce, and the low, nay, almost destitute circumstances
which nine-tenths of them were in, on their arrival in
the woods, it is matter of surprise that so much has
been done. The mistress of this house, who is about
thirty years of age, is no dissenter from the custom of
the neighbourhood—seldom long without a beloved
pipe. A girl of eighteen or nineteen, smart and lively,
but without stockings,” came for a pound of tobacco
(some of the landlord's own raising), to learn to smoke,
she said. The landlord had been with some neighbours
five miles into the woods, to clear out some windfalls,
which had blocked up the road. At dark the above
lass (who had now her stockings on) and her mother,
came with a “Jersey waggon,” to take the tavern-
keeper and his wife to a “paring bee,” or “be;” that
is, an assemblage of neighbours invited to one house,
to prepare apples for drying. Almost every thing here
is done by “bees” (in the States they are called
frolics). They always contrive to have some whisky
at these “bees,” which are a kind of merry-meeting,
when sometimes dancing and rustic plays are carried
on at the close, and occasionally, by drinking too
much, quarrels will sometimes arise among the men; and
doubtless a sufficient quantum of scandal, nearly equal
to a tea-party in another part of the world, among
the women.
November 4.—Snows and sleets all day; quite a con-
trast to yesterday, which was a beautiful, fine mild
day. Passed through ten miles of woods; pine land
* Stockings are hardly ever worn by the settlers in the
woods in summer, either by males or females. In winter the
latter wear stockings, and the former socks.
| 10 INQUIRIES OF
and sandy oak plains, some of inferior quality, chiefly
belonging to “United Empire Loyalists,” or “United
Empire” men. Those loyalists who stuck to the Bri-
tish standard in the Revolution, and their children,
both male and female, are so called; each of whom
can, upon application, receive 200 acres of land of the
government in this province, free from all settling and
road duties until settled; so the lands are left in wilder-
ness and the roads uncleared, except the settlers “turn
out” and clear them. It was here the tavern-keepers
and others had come five miles yesterday, to remove
trees that had fallen across the track, and which is often
occurring. This is another instance and proof, I con-
ceive, of the injudicious system adopted by govern-
ment, in leaving the public roads to be cleared by
settlers. Passed some oak plains, with so few trees on
them, that if the brushwood was moved off, they would
look like immense parks There are a few small vil-
lages on these plains, scattered at no great distance.
Waterford, Simcoe, and Dover, with from fifteen to
thirty houses, have more of the rural simplicity and
neatness of English villages than any other I have seen
in this country. In a few years, when sheep shall be
more attended to, a new system of husbandry intro-
duced, and farmers of capital emigrate to Upper
Canada, these plains will, I think, be some of the most
valuable in the province.—Cut down some or all the
few trees to rend into rails for fences; mow off the
few bunches of willow and sassafras brush with a
strong scythe ; plough up the ground (a sand) in the
fall, and either sow winter tares, or peas in the spring,
harrowed in on the fmrrow ; the second year, plant
AN EMIGRANT. 111
corn and well work it; third year, barley or oats, and
with it clover or sanfoin, and with turnips and plenty
of sheep, it may be made, I think, very profitable
land, and certainly easy and pleasant working, with
healthy situations for building, and generally good
water. Breakfasted at “a house of entertainment”
(houses that have no tavern license). You eat, and
drink whisky if you choose, it is set before you, they
charge only for the former, though not forgetting the
latter in the charge. Whisky at taverns is threepence
halfpenny per gill, which is more than 500 per cent.
profit; the same quantity, by the gallon, is about a
halfpenny. Licenses for taverns and stills in the pro-
vince are rather high, to prevent their extension to
excess. Stills cost erecting from 60l. to 200l., and will
distil from thirty to sixty or eighty gallons of whisky
per diem; they pay according to their capacity, 4s. 6d.
per gallon yearly; and as the smallest stills that are in
use, I believe, are forty gallons, they of course pay
forty dollars, or 10l. currency per year. Taverns pay
according to their situation for business, which is de-
termined yearly by the magistrates, from 25s. to 5l.
and upwards. A bee commenced at the above house
while eating my breakfast; the women quilting and
the men husking corn. They had just killed a sheep
to entertain them with. From this place I entered a
country, in some places approaching to hilly, and
better settled and open, some pleasant situations and
good orchards. A man accidentally drowned yesterday
at a mill, and while I was passing it to-day, people
were flocking from all the country, on foot, in waggons,
and on horseback, to attend, as is customary, this early
l 12 INQUIRIES OF
funeral, at twelve o'clock. Stopped for the night at
the village of Brantford, on the banks of Grand River,
over which is a large strong wooden bridge, lately
erected. Villages in this country are mostly embryos
of towns, full of trade and business, and some of them
increasing fast. This village is situated well both for
trade and health, being on high ground. Indians live
on the flat of the river, and still hold six miles width on
its banks; some of which they lease out for a term of
years, at a low rate, to white people. There are some
extensive views from the high land over the cultivated
rich bottoms.
Nov. 5.-Walked forward to Ancaster; dimed at a
tavern on the road, where a printed bill was stuck up,
to inform the public, that a Yankee show would be ex-
hibited there to-morrow; and among other things, will be
“ the glorious victory over the British at New Orleans !”
which is a public insult. Stopped at Vanderlip’s tavern,
three miles from Ancaster: the proprietor a thriving
Dutchman, who had, he said, three sons in the battle
of Queenston. The government and some military
officers have been here and at the “short hills” lately,
looking out eligible situations for the erection of forti-
fications. Overtook an old Scotchman from the west,
going down the country on a visit to a relation; has
been four years from Scotland, and wishes himself
back again, which is rather singular, as generally, it is
said, a “ Scotchman is never at home but when from
home;” indeed, this is the first of that country I have
met with discontented. But old people from Europe,
without property, seldom can fall in cordially with the
customs and manners of this new country. Frost last
AN EMI GRANT. 113
night, but a thaw to-day, which makes the road bad by
the melting of the snow. Cash given for grain, and
produce hereabouts, which makes this part more
thriving than westward, being nearer a market. Wheat
is low just now, 2s. 6; d. per bushel, considerable quan-
tities grown in this neighbourhood; some farmers have
from twelve to 1400 bushels in a year, although they
seldom employ but few hands besides their own families.
Indeed they are not to be procured, as nobody in the
country works out much; they nearly all have land of
their own. From the west you approach Ancaster
without any rise of ground, but on arriving at it you
find yourself on the edge of an eminence, or mountain.
The country before you, and on each hand, is broken,
precipitous and romantic, and in summer must be
beautiful, and no doubt healthy. This ridge or moun-
tain runs north-west towarks Lake Huron circuitously,
and south-east across the Niagara at Queenston, before
noticed, and onward through Lockport, in the States.
Ancaster is a large thriving handsome village, with
some smart buildings, good houses, and a meat new
church situated on the brow of the hill, down which a
small but constant spring-stream runs, supplying two
distilleries, a brewhouse, and a large mill, &c. This
place, I am told, mostly belongs to one of four bro-
thers, Scotchmen, of the name of Crooks, who have all
been members of the colonial assembly. Passed on
along a meandering road over hill and through dale, to
Dundas, a pretty little, yet fast increasing, village,
situated in a vale, by the side of a clear stream, two
miles from Ancaster. It is also about two miles from
the Little Lake, from which a canal is to be cut next
I
114 INQUIRIES OF
spring. This is a beautiful, romantic part of the coun-
try. A harbour is now making at Burlington, and a
communication between the Little Lake and Lake
Ontario, and should the proposed canal through the
country to London, from this place, be carried into
effect, it will become the emporium of a large and
fertile part of the province. Stopped in Dundas for
the night, at an excellent tavern kept by a Mr. Jones
from Birmingham; in the village there is another tavern,
kept by another Englishman, but most of the inhabi-
tants appear to be Scotch. There is a thriving settle-
ment of tolerably rich Dutchmen north-west of this
place, in the township of Waterloo.
Nov. 7.-After purchasing a pair of common boots,
18s., socks, 2s. 8d., and mittens, 2s. 8d., I left Dun-
das, along Dundas-street (road), winding up round the
hills, with my friend, and then through a deep vale, on
a partly new-formed road, which was very dirty and
very slippery, through the thawing of the remains of
the snow; descended the mountain again into a more
open, level, and better settled country, and dined at
Sumner's Tavern, at a small village in Dundas-street.
This appears a tolerably thriving part, which is evi-
dently caused by the stimulus of a cash market near at
hand, for all kinds of produce. Considerable quantity
of wheat is grown in this neighbourhood; twenty-two
to twenty-five bushels per acre considered a good crop.
Not much corn grown; the ground appears too stiff
for it. The street from this place to York runs pa-
rallel with the north shore of Lake Ontario, about two
or three miles from it.
Nov. 8,-Came a heavy rain in the night, which has
AN EMIGRANT, 115
washed the remains of the snow and some of the dirt
from the roads. Crossed a number of creeks (small
rivers) over some pretty good wooden bridges, near
which are mills, stores, &c. &c., the buds of future
towns and villages. The river Credit, a small fine
clear stream with a stony bottom, is a great resort of
salmon, trout, &c. in the spring or fall; numbers of
people every night spearing and selling them, at 30s.
to 35s. per barrel of 200lbs. weight. No nets allowed
in the river or near its mouth, as they would soon
destroy all the fish, or at least keep them from going
up the river into the country. Two persons in a •
canoe,” with a spear and a torch, will sometimes kill
eight or ten barrels of salmon in one night, yet some-
times none at all, as they swim in shoals. From this
place to York there are some sandy plains, with white-
oak, pines, &c. and a cedar swamp or two, and here
and there a fertile spot; on one of which was a fine
large nursery of thriving young fruit trees. Stopped
at a tavern two miles from York, (taverns every few
miles), kept by an agreeable American, who is just
starting a furnace for casting all kinds of iron ware.
Nov. 9.—At York, the present capital of Upper
Canada, being in 43 degrees 35 minutes north, con-
tains between 2000 and 3000 inhabitants, and is a fast
increasing and improving place, having a number of
good buildings, villas, &c. The government offices
are large, and built of brick. The houses and other
buildings, although generally small, are meat, and
* There has been an act passed in the Assembly since, to
prevent any but the Indians, who own the land in its neigh-
bourhood and live on it, from fishing therein.
I 2
116 INQUIRIES OF
better furnished than what I have seen in some other
places. The country round the town is rather too flat
for show. No distant object strikes the eye except the
light-house, the shores of the lake, and the peninsula
on the opposite side of the bay, which are pleasing.
The town has been unhealthy till of late; a swamp at
the back of it was the cause. It is now drained, and
the place is healthy. There are two churches, one of
the establishment and the other Roman Catholic, and
two or three meeting houses. In Canada, as in the
States, the Presbyterians, Methodists, and Baptists,
appear the most numerous, except in particular places,
(but I may be incorrect, as I have no data to guide
me), yet the Episcopalians, or Church of England Con-
grationalists, (Independents), and Roman Catholics,
are pretty numerous; besides others, such as Quakers,
Dunkards (who are Germans), Universalists, Unita-
rians, and some new sects, “Davidites,” and Chris-
tians, &c. &c. On my leaving the Province a grand
Law-Hall was building, and a new House of Assembly
and College to be commenced immediately, which
makes a demand for stone cutters and masons, and is
a great stimulus to the place; there is also a talk of a
new Episcopal church being shortly erected.
Only a few of the Wesleyan Methodists—the greater
part being what are termed American Methodists, who
have separated from the other, and are now subject
to the American Conference. There is only a small
market-house at present, which is well attended every
day; and, as the town increases, another will of course
be erected—one is now talked of. The Main, or King's
Street, is the only one as yet gravelled; the others are
AN EMI GRANT. 117
thrown up into ridges, and are very dirty just now.
The streets in towns and villages in this country are
wider and more regular; and the houses being all new,
and many painted or whitewashed, they have a more
light and airy appearance than those in old countries.
There is one bank, called the “York Bank,” which is
in good repute; there is also one in Montreal which has
a banking-house here, besides one or two in Quebec.
Any respectable, steady tradesman can procure money
by giving a joint note of hand at the banks, which is a
wonderful advantage in a new country, where skill and
enterprise have such ample room for its beneficial em-
ployment. I think it might be now extended, to very
manifest advantage of the province. It is the numerous
banks in every part of the States, that have given such
a stimulus to enterprise among the Americans; and
though it may cause rather wild speculations, and
some bankruptcies occasionally, and, consequently, in-
dividual losses, the latter soon recover by the same
means, and these speculations are at all events public
benefits, and cause great undertakings with little or no
capital. The notes here are from one dollar, or 5s.
currency, to 1 l., 5l., 10l., 20l., &c., payable in cash on
demand. York Harbour is formed by a semicircular
strip of land, or sandbank, with some trees growing
thereon, leaving an outlet to the south-west—the light-
house being near its point. The bay is about three
miles in diameter, having a small river, the Don,
emptying into it, where salmon, herrings, eels, &c. are
caught; some wild ducks also resort to it in spring and
fall. It is a good place, also, for domestic geese, where
a considerable number are seen; and, like the gene-
118 INQUIRIES OF
rality of the geese kept in the province, appear a smaller
breed than the English, though perhaps hardier; at
Colonel Talbot's and a few other places, I have seen
some of the latter. A few hundred soldiers are sta-
tioned here in the barracks, which are situated opposite
the lighthouse and entrance of the bay. Building lots
of land, within the last year or two, have risen in value
very fast, on account, it is said, of the seat of govern-
ment being decided to remain here for some years to
COIſle.
CHAPTER VII.
Opening of the Colonial Session—Warious Journeys from
York—A natural Oil Spring—Canadian Auction—A
Dutch Settlement—Amherstburg, Sandwich, and other
places—A Voyage on Lake Erie and Detroit River
described.
Nov. 10.—Took a long walk down the Kingston
road, chiefly through pine woods and, of course, sandy
land, with occasionally a clearing of a house. There
are some very fine townships below, and well settled.
Saw some of the tall European thistles for the first
time in the province. Great quantities of staves for
barrels, squared timber, and lumber, yearly prepared
on the shores of Lake Ontario, and sent to Montreal
and Quebec markets, where they bring a good price,
AN EMIG R.A.N.T. 119
generally to be shipped for the West Indies, and va-
rious parts of the United Kingdom. Upwards of 600
vessels, with 3,000,000l. worth of timber, loaded yearly,
which is a great benefit to the country, as it is full
of timber. Cord wood in York sells at 9s. to 13s.6d.
per cord (a cord is a stack of eight feet long, four feet
high, and cleft in lengths, laid across, of four feet);
2s. 6d. per cord is given for chopping and splitting it
up; an expert chopper will do three cords in a day.
Europeans, on their first arrival in this country, are
inferior to Americans in the use of the axe, but soon
will, with attention, get sufficiently handy, and be their
equals. Fine large fruit grows at the heads of both
Lake Erie and Ontario; saw an apple from the latter,
which weighed 18 ounces, and there are some 25
ounces each.
Dec. 1.-Engaged board and lodging at a respectable
tradesman's house, at 11s. 3d per week. The members
of the general Assembly or Parliament are coming in
to open the Session on the 5th, according to proclama-
tion; the greater part lodge at private houses (two in
the house with me), at from 13s.6d. to 18s. per week,
with a private room and board. Many members of
this assembly come thirty or forty miles on foot, through
bad roads, which their legislative powers ought to place
in a good state, but grants for improving the highways
are opposed, while they vote themselves 9s. per day
from the time of leaving home to their return, which
they contrive to make as long as possible by their lame,
petty wrangling and squabbles in the House, evidently,
in some instances, to protract the close of the session.
The seat of government will be eventually removed to
120 IN QUIRIES OF
some more eligible and secure part of the province, as
it is too open, and exposed to surprise by an enemy in
time of war, and the country too flat for fortifications.
London is talked of, at the forks of the Thames; but
perhaps at the head of Lake Ontario, in the beautiful,
romantic, and healthy neighbourhood of the Little
Lake, would be the most eligible.
Dec. 5.-Fine pleasant day. At one o'clock the
cannon announced the attendance of the Lieutenant-
Governor (Sir Peregrine Maitland) to open the Session
of Parliament, accompanied by a number of the mili-
tary, and a band of music playing national airs. When
he was seated on the throne, surrounded by his aid-
de-camps, and some members collected in front, the
Governor delivered a written speech, after which the
members retired from the council chamber to proceed
to business, and the Governor to his carriage, to be
escorted back to his house by the soldiers, the music
playing, cannon firing, &c.
Dec. 10.—Left York in a schooner, to cross the Lake
to Niagara (or Fort George) for 4s. 6d., about thirty-six
miles; arrived in the evening. Niagara is pleasantly
situated on apparently a dry healthy soil, at the outlet
of the noble river from which it derives its name. This
was the first place burnt during the last war by the
American General M'Clure. It is a very smart, meat,
clean place, with some large stores and good taverns.
The air is milder than on the other side of the lake,
and the snow never falls so soon nor so deep. Niagara
to Queenston, and indeed round the head of the Lake
to Dundas, Hamilton, and Ancaster, is a fine country,
genial air, healthy, well watered, and settled. Land
AN EMI GRANT. 12]
from 30s. to 4!. 10s. per acre. Fruit is plentiful, good,
and cheap. Apples are pared, quartered, and cored,
then strung on a thread to dry, either by the sun or
fire. The peaches have their stones taken out and
dried in the same way, and otherwise preserved. The
American “Niagara Fort,” a small village of Young's
Town, is situated on the opposite side of the river; and
Leweston opposite Queenston, at which I arrived, seven
miles above Niagara. General Brock's monument is
finished, and stands very conspicuous on the mountain
top near the road to the Falls. It is to be seen plainly
at Niagara, and with a glass, in a clear day, at York,
on the other side of the lake. It is a very neat, strong-
built pile; being Sunday, it has the British flag on its
top. Passed Lunday's Lane, which is within a short
distance from the Falls. A sharp and obstinate battle
was fought here in the late war, which terminated in
favour of the British. At a little distance, but within
sight of the road, a few miles nearer Queenston, the
Governor has a country house, in which he resides
during the summer; it is in about the style of a first-
rate farmer's in England. There is a small village
near, with a little neat stone church. Orchards still
have some apples hanging on their trees, and great
quantities lying under them rotting. The young wheat
all along my route looks well. A small steam boat ran
this last season on the river between Chippawa and
Buffaloe, and a horse boat runs across at the ferry at
Blackrock.
Dec. 18.—Arrived once more at Port Talbot on foot.
The Canadians and settlers think little of travelling 100
or 200 miles out at a time.
122 INQUIRIES OF
Dec. 25.-Christmas-day. Frost has set in sharp,
and plenty of snow fallen (about six or eight inches),
and of course good sleighing. Started in a cutter, or
one-horse sleigh, for the river Thames and Bear Creek.
The settlers on the former, generally speaking, have
the character of being idle and inhospitable, quite a
contrast in the latter feature to most parts of the pro-
vince. This inhospitality is the more inexcusable, on
account of there being but few, if any, taverns on the
river.
Dec. 28.—Passed up the river, along the Westminster
road, for York. The flats of the river are extensive,
as high up as Moravian Town, where they get narrow,
and the country more broken into gentle hills and dales:
rich land, well watered with springs and small streams.
A singular spring of oil issues out of the banks of the
river near here, on the land belonging to the Indians.
It is of the consistence and colour of tar, with a peculiar
smell. It is generally supposed to be coal tar (petro-
lium) arising from a bed of coal said to run across the
country. There are sulphur springs also in the neigh-
bourhood, and in various other parts of the province.
The oil is gathered from the surface of the water (by
Indians and others), by blankets extended and lightly
dropped on the surface, when they absorb the oil. It is
sold from 2s. 3d. to 4s. 6d. per quart, and sent to all
parts of the province, and even the States, as a cure for
rheumatism, sprains, &c., and is sometimes taken in-
ternally, in small quantities, for strengthening the tone
of the stomach, and other complaints. In the Long-
wood settlement, I saw a spot of twenty or thirty acres
of wood torn up, and broken off some fifty years ago
A N EMI GRANT. 123
by a hurricane or whirlwind, and the trees scattered in
heaps on the ground. I have seen similar places in
different parts of the province; I have been told there
has been none in the settled parts of the province since
its settlement. The country is rough and broken by
ravines through the neighbouring high lands, bounding
the flats of the river; the roads in some places not
cleared, because not settled, till near Delaware Town, at
which place I crossed the river on the ice, between un-
frozen springs on each hand, kept so by the motion of
the current; but few houses situated on the banks of
the river, and a saw-mill and tavern, which will increase
in a few years, probably, to a large village or town, as
the spot is healthy and adapted for business, and at the
lowest point of the river where pines grow, which are
here sawed into boards, &c. and rafted down to Sand-
wich, Detroit, and other places. I am informed near
400 deer have been killed this season, within a few
miles of this place, chiefly by Indians; haunches of
venison to be bought at about 1s. Id, each, weighing
from ten to fifteen pounds. Stopped at a tavern for the
night in the township of Westminster; same day a
number of people called in, having just arrived from the
quarter sessions for the county of Middlesex, held in
London, situated on the opposite side of the river
Thames. Petty sessions are held at private houses or
taverns in almost every township, once or twice a
month, where the “Squires”* attend to settle trifling
* Justices of the Peace, or “Squires,” as they are here
called, are made in every township if they are eligible persons.
In the new settlements they are mostly farmers, with some
store-keepers. One duty of a “Squire” is, to marry, if no
124 INQUIRIES OF
appeals to the law, and grant summonses to creditors
for the appearance of debtors owing small sums, or
giving notes of hand, at their next sitting, to either pay
them or show cause why they neglect, when in the
latter case the magistrates decide; and if for the credi-
tor, and the money is not paid, a writ is issued for the
sale of property to the amount and expenses. Notes of
hand to any amount can be recovered, and, I believe,
to the amount of 10l. in book debts, except a tavern-
keeper's bill for liquor, which is limited to a much less
amount. The township of Westminster is good land,
and so also is London, and well settled and healthy, with
numerous fine springs, and also thriving by the exten-
sive clearings; and good large frame-houses and barns
being erected along the street. The extreme of heat
and cold is rather greater here than near the lakes.
Jan. 5, 1827. – Arrived again in York, which is all
bustle by the numerous sleighs from every part of the
province; some with produce, such as wheat-flour in
barrels, oats, barley,” pork, beef, butter, eggs, fowls,
&c.; many on other business, and some on visits. The
assembly too being still sitting, makes the town yet
more stirring.
Jan. 6. —Left York again for the west; the road full
of sleighs, and the taverns full of travellers, a great
clergyman of the Church of England is settled within eighteen
miles, I believe.
* The winter barley is mostly sown in Canada. It is
asserted by some that spring barley will not do well, but I
believe the contrary, with proper management. 1 would re-
commend emigrants to bring out a small quantity of the early
Thanet or Fulham barley, as good barley is, and will be, in
request, since breweries are established.
AN EMIGRANT, 125
proportion of whom, both ladies and gentlemen, are as
well and as fashionably attired, and respectable in ap-
pearance, as might be expected from the same number
in England. Sumner's tavern, in Dundas-street, has a
great run of business, and deservedly, as it is well con-
ducted, and kept by an obliging person; and there are
several other good taverns on this route. Travellers
with sleighs generally stop to bait and warm themselves
every ten or twelve miles. Farmers generally carry
their own provisions and oats for horses, and mostly
keep them well, the Dutchmen in particular, who may
be compared to the Quakers for prudence and success-
ful perseverance, but inferior in education. Turned off
Dundas-street, by the Little Lake to the village of
Hamilton. Here, in the neighbourhood of Burlington
Bay, is perhaps as beautiful and romantic a situation as
any in the interior of America, and seems eminently
situated and adapted by nature as one of the first com-
mercial points in the province.
Jan. 8. — Arrived at the Great Falls once more,
which appear ever grand, and ever new. This astonish-
ing, and almost incalculable concentrated power—the
greatest in the world, is nearly unheeded as to useful
purposes, there being only three small mills put in
operation by its mighty efforts, while thousands might
be wrought. At the village of Chippawa, where the
river Welland enters the Niagara, is the beginning of the
rapids, which run to the Falls. At their commence-
ment, the water in the river is within five or six feet of
the top of the level bank, and has a descent of 200 feet
in a mile and a quarter. By means of a duct or chan-
nel, cut to convey the water from the mouth of the
126 INQUIRIES OF
Welland towards the Falls, how easy this immense
power might be brought into operation, at a much less
expense in proportion than a single piece of machinery;
and this in a situation, as a central point for commerce
and communication with Europe, and the whole of
North America, not to be equalled: indeed, every thing
seems most admirably adapted by nature for the health,
comfort, security, convenience, and trade, of the me-
tropolis of a flourishing country. The Americans have
established a manufactory on their side of the Falls, and
likewise considerable machinery for various purposes,
to take the advantages offered by the Erie canal: and,
although I have not heard that they contemplate the
appropriation of any great portion of this immense and
economical power to manufactories, the present use
they make of it will soon suggest to them a more ex-
tensive application. Nature has been lavish in the
advantages conferred on the Canadian side of the Nia-
gara river over the American, through its whole route:
the best harbours (indeed there is not a good one on the
other side), the best view of the Falls, the nearest and
best natural roads, and, generally speaking, the best
land.
Jan. 12.—Stopped at a Dutch farmer's to sleep, and
this morning crossed the Grand River on the ice, when
I passed a number of sleighs loaded with the machinery
of a steam-engine for a mill; slept again at another
Dutch farmer's, whose family have rather more than
common primitive appearance: the men with long hair,
hanging down over their shoulders, and parted over the
forehead, and a homespun dress nearly of the cut of
the Quaker, to which sect I at first thought they be-
AN EMI GRANT, 127
longed, as they had a silent grace before and after
meals. I have since learned they are Dunkards or
Menonists, and I was cordially invited to partake of
their simple fare. One of the men was communica-
tive: he was going with a sleigh load of wheat to the
head of Lake Ontario (thirty-five miles) to store it till
the spring, expecting an advance in price then. The
Dutch in general are in pretty good circumstances,
living in large substantial, though plain-built houses;
built with a stoop, that is, the roof projecting consider-
ably over for shade in front of the house; this is rather
common in America; the Dutch hang the horses' har-
ness and ox-yokes, and other implements of husbandry,
under them, on pegs driven into the wall of the house;
and having very large barns, and generally good yards
and other convenient out-buildings for cattle, &c. In
this house, and in that which I slept last might, they had
large log fires on the hearth, besides a large stove in the
sitting rooms of each, placed on the opposite side, so
when sitting at the fire you had the stove at your back
Another custom peculiar to the Dutch is, instead of
lying upon a feather bed, to have it for a covering in
lieu of a sheet and blankets, having a straw or chaff one
underneath ! It is certainly a warm, but to me not
pleasant, method of lying. Some severe cold mights of
late; one night I believe the thermometer was ten or
twelve degrees below Zero, but it is milder again and
pleasant.
Feb. 6.—There has been a greater quantity of snow
this winter than was ever known since the settlement
of the country. In the west, twelve to eighteen inches
deep on a level; back about London, and down at
128 INQUIRIES OF
York, twenty-four to twenty-eight inches; and farther
down the province three feet and upwards. The wea-
ther has been proportionably cold, and frost steady till
now, except a small thaw a few days in January, which
it is said always happens, little or much, in that month.
Feb. 23.—A beautiful and clear warm day; the snow
has been wasting for some days past, which has broken
up the excellent sleighing that had lasted steady all
winter. The strength of the crust of the snow has this
winter enabled the wolves to hunt down the deer, and
great numbers have been destroyed. Attended a
vendue, or auction sale of farming-stock lately, for
which a credit of ten months was given, and the pay-
ment to be in wheat at the market price of the time of
payment. The sale was conducted in much the same
manner as an English country auction, with this pecu-
liarity, that every time a person gives a bidding, he is
offered the bottle of whisky to drink, besides its free
and constant circulation through the whole company.
A neighbour acts as auctioneer, paying for a license
4s. 6d, for a year. On account of credit being given,
things went off much higher than they otherwise would
have done. A small aged horse, 111. 7s. 6d. ; cows
from 31. to 5l. 5s. ; a yoke of oxen, 16l. 8s. ; sheep from
6s. 9d. to 14s. 9d, each, with their wool on ; a wooden
clock, 31, 16s. This man's circumstances and progress
may be stated as a criterion of the success of steady
industrious settlers in general. He, with several others
of the family, came into Canada seven years ago, from
the United States, with little or no property besides a
bed, and a few other things, of small value. After
working out a while to procure a cow, and some neces-
AN EMIGRANT. 129
sary articles, he drew fifty acres of land of Colonel
Talbot, to clear the road, and settled on it, where he
continued to this period, steady and industrious. He
has sold his land now at 1231. 15s, and the proceeds of
the auction sale, 108l.—together 2311, 15s. Sterling.
But there are too many that love idleness and the
tavern more than is consistent with much prosperity;
still, idlers are despised. I have not chosen this man's
experience as the most successful, but what any may
attain with industry and prudence; for those who had
a family of boys, and drew 200 acres of land, and
worked on it with equal perseverance, have probably
doubled the above amount. The sugar harvest now
begins, which is not so promising as last year.
March 25.-Open weather of late; some days mild
and pleasant. Ice off the Lake, frost out of the ground,
and snow all gone, except a small remnant drifted on
the north sides of the ravines.
March 30.-Started in an open boat up the Lake for
Sandwich and Detroit, about 130 miles, in company
with a squire, his son, and another neighbour, farmers;
the former of whom was taking up seven or eight
hundred weight of butter and cheese for sale. The
wind being unfavourable, we made but small progress,
and the roughness of the Lake caused sea-sickness for
awhile. We stopped at a private house for the night,
on the Lake shore, and were treated hospitably by its
owner, a Scotchman.
March 31.—After fitting out a boat belonging to our
friend, better adapted for sailing than the one we had,
and shifting the cargo, we sailed with a fair but light
breeze; but it soon after hauled round with the sun,
R
130 INQUIRIES OF f
and the Lake got rough, so we were unable to go on
shore to dine, on account of the surf. At sun-set we
made Point-Aux-Pins or Rondeau, and about nine
o'clock we run our boat into a creek, and made safe
for the night. No house being near, we were com-
pelled to “camp out,” which is no very strange thing
in some parts of America. After making a good fire
of wood drifted on the beech, at the side of some
bushes, over which we threw our sails for shelter from
the wind, we sat down to supper, and then spread a
sail on the ground, on which we lay with our feet to
the fire for the night, each of us wrapped in a blanket.
The wind getting round early in the morning, and
being rather cold, it awakened us, and as it was favour-
able we determined to proceed before daylight.
April 1.—Left the outlet at three o'clock this morn-
ing, with a light, but fair and pleasant breeze, which
continued through the day, with mild air and cloudless
sky. Doubled Point Pele, or south Foreland, the most
southern part of Canada, soon after noon, and rowed
round Pigeon Bay, a great fishing place of the Indians,
particularly for sturgeon. Cedars grow along the sand
banks which surround the Point, and enclose large
ponds and marshes as at Rondeau, and perhaps a
greater place for water-fowl. Stopped near the mouth
of Sturgeon Creek, at an American's, for the night.
April 2–A most beautiful day, and warm, with a
fine light breeze from the east. Ranged within a mile
or two of the coast of what is called the New Settle-
ment, although it has been settled longer than most
other new parts. Saw some fine well-built houses of
both frame and brick, with good orchards every little
AN EMIGRANT, 131
way. Entered the Detroit river about noon, and was
soon at the town of Malden, or Amherstburg, three
miles from its mouth; a smart, neat, French-built
town, opposite the fine small island of Bois Blanc,
and others. There is good and safe anchorage be-
tween the island and main shore, well adapted for
wharfs and other conveniences for naval or commer-
cial purposes. The houses have long steep roofs, after
the French fashion: some neat gardens round the
town, enclosed with paling. The inhabitants are the
greater part French, the first settlers. This place is
well situated for trade, in the very mildest and southern-
most part of the province, latitude 42%; but it wants
some enterprising spirits to make it flourish rapidly.
Considerable quantities of tobacco are grown in the
neighbourhood, which it is evident will soon become
quite a staple article. Potatoes are selling here at
2s. 8d. per bushel, and brought out of the States, like
many other articles. We left this place in the even-
ing for Sandwich, my friend not being willing to take
7d. per lb. for his butter, and a little less for his cheese.
We camped out again on the beach under the river
bank; being a warm night and wind still, we were
pretty comfortable. About midnight some American
smugglers were attracted by our fires to the spot, from
the opposite side. One was a pleasant person, and
had brought a patent churn to show, and of course to
sell if he could. It was to be hung up in a room, and
put in motion by a string while sitting. He had also
a patent keg, with four heads, to contain as many
different kinds of liquors.
April 3.-Started again before daylight up the river,
K 2
132 INQUIRIES OF
and got lost in the marshy mouth of Duck River,
where, if variety of notes could charm, we had an
excellent chance of being delighted; and indeed as an
expression of natural joy excited by the return of
spring in the animal creation, it must be agreeable to
any but a vitiated mind. We rectified our mistake
just at daybreak, and continued up the river, with a
fine breeze in our favour, by some large islands, some
of them entire marshes, whose flaggy grass had just
been burned, for the double purpose of getting at the
musk rats, and to destroy all the old grass, and allow
the young to shoot up for mowing for hay. This is a
fine old settled country; large orchards, and numerous
white houses along the shore, in the French fashion,
being first settled by French, and the greater part still
held by their descendants. An author has said, “in
passing these straits of Detroit, when fruit-trees are in
blossom, the prospect is perhaps as delightful as any
in the world.” The wind rising, we were wafted
rapidly along to Sandwich Harbour, where we landed
at the only and unfrequented wharf, eighteen miles
from Amherstburg. Sandwich is pleasantly situated
on a fine rise of ground, and apparently a good and
moderately dry soil; but the town, on entering it,
excites feelings of disappointment and disgust. There
are some few good houses, surrounded by others that
have the appearance of desolation and poverty, occu-
pied apparently by a dilatory, listless set of beings;
and such was the miserable state of the taverns, that
we could not procure refreshments, or be accommo-
dated with a room at any one of them. We called at
a house or two to ask if any butter was wanted, but
AN EMIGRANT. 133
were not the least disappointed after the above recep-
tion, and took to our boat again for the ferry two miles
above, and opposite Detroit, where we found two good
taverns, with plenty of beer, cider, &c. Detroit, on
the opposite bank of the river, which is about three
quarters of a mile across, has a very pretty appearance,
with the spires and steeples of two or three churches
and the capitol. Passed over in the ferry-boat; charge
3}d. A number of good large stores, to several of
which we went. My friend could not meet with a
market for his butter and cheese at so high a price
as at Amherstburg, large quantities having already
arrived.
Detroit, as well as Sandwich, was settled by the
French about the same time as Philadelphia. There
is a large Roman Catholic church, and a moderate size
Presbyterian one. Re-crossed the river, and stopped
for the night at one of the ferry-houses. Two or three
young men, from the river Thames, are here with
twenty barrels of cider in a boat, ready to “run”
across to Detroit in the night, to evade the duty. They
had sold it at three dollars per barrel.
April 4.—My friends return to Amherstburg, where
they will leave their butter and cheese at a store, to be
sold on commission, and return home; while I pro-
ceed on foot, on my route up the Detroit, for the river
Thames, along the road through Westminster to the
head of Lake Ontario. The banks of the river Detroit,
near the ferry, and some distance up on the Canada side,
are from ten to twenty feet high, giving a pleasant
commanding prospect, with some good and neat French
houses, having orchards and gardens at short distances,
134 INQUIRIES OF
on the side of the road, which runs along the bank of
the river. The land is cleared nearly two miles back,
and free from stumps—those unsightly objects to “old
country” people, on first coming into America, on new-
cleared farms. The flower gardens enclosed with pales,
though rude, and the old orchards, and green pastures,
give it more the appearance of my native country,
which is thus brought to my imagination, than any
part I have yet seen in the new world. Farms sell
here at from 45s, to 31, 10s. per acre, a house and
some buildings included. The French have a neater
way of making their zig-zag fences, by straitening them
a little, and putting a stake on each side of the corners,
which are pinned together nearer the top than is in
general use. Their houses, that were in good repair,
are also more meat, by being covered over their sides
with bark. Six or seven miles above Detroit is Lake
St. Clair; and just on entering it is an island in the
river; this lake is, I believe, nearly circular, and
twenty or thirty miles across. Along the Canada side
of it, I travelled to the mouth of the Thames. Its
banks are very low, and in places are large marshes;
where there are none it is chiefly settled, and mostly
by French, who speak English barely sufficient to be
understood. At the mouth of the river Thames there
are very extensive marshes, in some places uncovered
by water, and in others but just covered, round which
people have settled, and keep great numbers of cattle
and horses to breed for sale, mowing the marsh grass
for hay. I should have supposed these marshes un-
healthy, had I not been told otherwise, and the looks
of the people confirm the assertion.
AN EMIGRANT. 135
April 5.-After crossing four miles of the Big Marsh
T came to the Thames, a mile or two from its mouth,
and a few miles below Chatham. At Chatham there is
a church and a mill, but no town or village at present.
The river is about fourteen or fifteen rods or poles
wide, of uniform breadth, and of sufficient depth to
admit schooners up it twenty miles or more. There
are some rich farms along its banks, but it is not settled
backward. For several miles it is settled by French,
but higher up are Dutch and some others. Wheat
grows and looks well, just covering the ground. There is
a store, and mill, once in ten or fifteen miles. The French,
along lake St. Clare, and Detroit river, have several
windmills. Fish are now coming up the river in shoals
to spawn. One man told me he had already caught
forty barrels, close by his house, with a small seine.
April 6.—Passed over from the river to Talbot-street,
again along the road or track, which, at best, is but
little better than an Indian trail, and now nearly
blocked up by trees blown across it; while the late
rains have filled the swamps, making it almost im-
passable for either man or beast. This is the only
communication to the river, where there is a bridge,
and is much used when passable. Why do not govern-
ment cut these public roads, with the fees and other
money arising from the sale of lands? If no other
funds can be appropriated to such purposes, I would
say, establish toll-gates.
April 9,-Returned home again, where my friends
had arrived the day preceding. Some heavy rain yes-
terday. Weather warm of late, and hardly the slightest
frost for two or three weeks past—thermometer 50 to
60; and spring in all its beauty appears.
136 INQUIRIES OF
May 25.-The latter part of last month was wet and
cold, which has made the spring late, contrary to what
was expected. Wheat on the wet soils looks but in-
differently on account of it, but on the dry and sandy
ones very good.
June 1.—There has been a frosty night or two of
late, that has slightly nipped the young potatoe tops
and some other plants, but has not hurt fruit trees
much. The weather is quite warm again, and vege-
tation grows apace. The ploughing and sowing has
been protracted on account of the hot weather, as few
people think of draining their land, either by ditch or
water furrows.
June 10. —Dry, warm weather, with an occasional,
small thunder shower, which has improved the wheat
much, and it is now coming on the ear. The sowing
of oats, planting corn and potatoes hardly yet finished.
Now is the season to transplant the young tobacco
plants from the beds, sown as soon as the frosts were
out of the ground; its cultivation seems to be extending.
July 2. — Fine, pleasant summer of late, with but
little sultry weather. Sailed this morning on board the
schooner Michigan, loaded with lumber (timber sawed)
and tobacco, for Fort Erie, from thence to proceed to
Niagara, York, and Kingston, with the former.
July 6.- After experiencing some contrary winds, a
gale came on, which washed some of the lumber from
the deck, and tore the sails, &c., but the wind soon
abating we proceeded on our course, and were becalmed
a day or two before arriving at Fort Erie, on the 9th
July, where two other small schooners lay.
July 10. –Proceeded to Chippawa.
AN EMIGRANT. 137
July 13. —Walked out to the Deep Cut, seven miles
from this place; several hundreds of people were exca-
vating for the canal; hands are in request to get it
through as soon as possible; good wages are offered,
and the work is not extreme by any means; 21. 15s. to
31.15s. per month, and board, is given according to the
abilities of the workman, and to those having horses
and oxen more in proportion; work from sunrise to
sunset; this is general in all kinds of work, both here
and in the United States. I was rather surprised, or
disappointed at least, after hearing so much said of the
magnitude of the undertaking—its large size to admit
schooners, &c.—to find it but very little wider than the
Grand Junction boat canal in England. Passed down
the canal to St. Catharine's, which is on the line of
canal, and two miles from the Lake Ontario; the land
generally of a white clayey loam; in some places strong,
and in others approaching to sandy. Beans pretty
good; wheat, peas, and clover (white and red) useful
and profitable under good management, yet not very
rich. Great quantities of wild mustard growing luxu-
riantly along the new-formed canal banks, in the
bottom of the Twelve Mile Creek. A number of beau-
tiful spreading shady trees on the sides of the creek, of
the butter-nut and hickory species. St. Catherine's is a
thriving and rapidly improving village, very pleasantly
situated along the pleasantly diversified romantic banks
of the Twelve Mile Creek, down in which, 100 feet
below the houses, is seen meandering the great unfi-
nished canal.
The inhabitants are chiefly Americans. A “darned
tarnation" pretty sample of them here “I swear,”
138 INQUIRIES OF
5
some “I guess,” from the “States’ prison,” and some
that have “broke the limits,” “I calculate,” &c. In
short “blue bellies” of all sorts and conditions, equal to
any of the frontier towns on both sides of the “lines.”
To come at a faint idea of a group of these half-dandi-
fied, sleek, smooth-faced, whiskerless, whisky-drinking,
third-commandment breaking, speculating, money-
hunting gentry, with various other qualifications, too
numerous and too bad to mention, take nine tailors, a
few barbers, half a dozen strolling players, three or
four quack doctors, some few waiters at taverns, hack-
ney coachmen, shoemakers, and lawyers' clerks, half a
dozen Jews, and three or four honest men, (perhaps as
great a proportion as to be found in some other places)
the last from Yorkshire, one half of the others from that
county, and the remainder cockneys | Let the barbers
shave all the whiskers off the others and themselves;
leave the hair on their heads thick but short, something
like a thrum mop, or similar to the fashion in King
Charles's days. Let them have very high-crowned hats,
some few white, or buff; others black, full of long nap
and very narrow brim; blue surtout, black silk vest,
laced up tight behind, blue or black trowsers, full
enough round the hips to hold fifty dollars' worth of
smuggled goods, with boots, of course; yes, all boots,
or nearly so. This for the first “grade” dress, the
others as near as their circumstances will admit. Now
place them in a large room in an inn, with free liberty
of ingress, egress, and regress, with benches to lie on,
and chairs to sit on to throw themselves back against
the wall, or pace up and down, in and out of the room,
as they think proper. Partition off one corner of the
AN EMIGRANT, 139
room, the bottom with boards, the top with latticed
wooden bars, like palisadoes, with three or four in the
middle to slide up to admit two or three hands or more
at a time as occasion requires. In this partition, which
we will call a bar, place one of the quack doctors, and
after he has locked himself in, let him give out drams
of whisky, “Jamaica spirits,” (best rum), “bitters,”
(any kind of liquor taken in a morning ostensibly for
procuring an appetite), “sling,” “black strap,” &c.,
from a tier of yellow painted kegs standing behind
him, with gin, whisky, &c. in large letters on them, to
the others, as they pace up and down the room. By
the time they have all taken a “drink” or two a-piece,
and swallowed a mouthful of water after it, you will
hear “guessing” and “calculating” enough, undoubt-
edly, and something better, “I don’t think!” Be care-
ful they do not tread on your toes at this time, and if
you wish to retain a seat, do not get up from it even
for a “York minute.” A “word to the wise,” &c.:—
You must not suppose them impudent or intruding if
they sit down before you, or stand betwixt you and the
fire, with their backs to it; nor must you be offended at
the number of questions that may be put, about your
own business and concerns, not even at being asked if
you are an honest man; all this is only the exercise of
the refinements of a superior liberty and freedom |
Some of them will smoke cigars, and others chew to-
bacco, therefore be careful, and keep a “good look-out”
if you wish to be cleanly; you had better mot leave any
furniture in the room, as they generally carry “Rogers'
penknives” about them. A few pieces of pine splints,
or other woods, put into the room, will, perhaps, keep
140 INQUIRIES OF
them from “whittling” the chairs, tables, and window
frame, and, as the saying goes, “they will make some-
thing of them.” You must not be moved should they
cast foul abuse and slander on their relation John Bull;
this is one of the most delightful privileges “uncle
Sam ” and “brother Jonathan’ enjoy! It would be a
pity to debar them from such a cheap and innocent
amusement, that hurts nobody. But hark! the horns
blow and bells ring to call the hull of them hum (home)
“right away straight” to a dinner of “fat pork and
melasses,” then “Johnny cake and pumpkin pie.”
After you have awakened “them are two men asleep
on the benches,” (who were “high " when they came
in, and full of “develtry,” having been on a drinking
“scale” of late) and cleaned out the room, I will drop
the curtain and leave you to ruminate on a scene in an
American tavern, while I proceed on my journey. Took
a walk into the country: it being Sunday, and the day
fine and pleasant, numbers of farmers and others, and
fine veiled females in gigs, cabrioles, and Jersey wag-
gons, were dashing along the different cross roads.
Monday, went to Niagara; the houses mostly frame,
and painted white, with sash windows and Venetian
blinds; some good convertible lands on the road, and
others indifferent; the roads the best in the province,
and some fine orchards; altogether this is a pleasant
and healthy part of the country. They have plenty of
fruit in most of the old settled parts, yet are deficient in
variety. There are but few of the best sorts of apples
grown in England, which is to be regretted, as most
kinds flourish admirably; but few good pears and
plums; damsons, apricots, and nectarines are rare, but
excellent.
AN EMI GRANT, 141
July 23. —Returned to Chippawa. Harvest is now
general; crops good; better than in the west this
season. Only two steam-mills in this village, though
so near the power of the rapids and great Falls; there
is also an iron foundry and still-maker. Most of the
visiters to the Falls go to see Brock's Monument, and
view the surrounding country and Lake Ontario from
its top (which is 126 feet high, the base 21), the
greater part of whom are Americans from all parts of
the States, but mostly from the southern. Numbers of
them seem surprised; Canada is such a fine country,
“ and what a pity it does not belong to the States,”
they say. I happened to be in company at a tavern
with some very respectable and sensible New Yorkers,
who spoke feelingly on the worse than folly of two
nations so nearly allied by blood, who speak the same
language, and whose interests are the same, to go to
war, as Great Britain and the United States. “Many
valuable lives were lost on both sides, and what did they
gain?” asked one of them, and much censured his
government for the invasion of Canada, to attempt
to take it. This is the general feeling of the most en-
lightened part of the Americans.
Aug. 1.-Mild, moderate weather, with some rain
and thunder of late. Neither men, women, nor children
in this country alarmed or “scared” at thunder, nor
are the latter frigthened to go any where in the dark,
or indeed but seldom at real dangers, through habit.
Saw the first stage coach in this country formed in
the English style, built very strong and neat, and
drawn by six horses. About 300 sheep brought over
the river at the ferry from the States, and duties paid,
142 INQUIRIES OF
some for the canal and others to be shipped for York.
Americans from the southern States, and others, are
often put to some trouble with their “niggers” while
visiting Canada, as some of them take advantage of
our just laws, which admit no slavery.
“They touch our country and their shackles fall!
That’s noble !”
A French officer who was over here had one of these
unfortunates (a female slave servant), whose skin was
a shade darker than his own, take “French leave,”
when he hired a number of the “sons of liberty” to
cross the river and kidnap her back again, in which
they too well succeeded under false pretences of pity-
ing her, and procuring her a situation. Having got
her near the water, they carried her by force into a
boat, and before the inhabitants could arrive to her
rescue, she was wafted in triumph across to “the land
of the free and the home of the brave,” with the hearty
execrations of the indignant Canadians.
Aug. 2.--Took the steam boat from Niagara to York;
fare on deck 4s. 6d., in the cabin 9s. ; four hours cross-
ing thirty-six miles; pleasant day and lake smooth;
large sturgeon springing quite out of the water at play;
people in boats about the mouth of the Niagara river,
and in other places, for a long time back, dragging for
the body of one Morgan, a freemason, who, it is pretty
well ascertained, was murdered in or near Fort Niagara,
at the mouth of the river, in the state of New York,
and is supposed to have been afterwards thrown into
the lake by a number of brother masons, for the crime
of publishing a book professing to explain and expose
the whole secrets of that fraternity. Great rewards
AN EMIGRANT. 143
have been offered for the recovery of the body, but as
yet without effect.
Aug. 3.-Not much business stirring in York just
now; harvest time keeps people busy at home. A
number of emigrants just arrived in steam boats from
below, chiefly Irish, but also a few English. In this
country, generally, all trades give premiums, or wages
to apprentices, which makes almost any trade easy of
attainment to the poorest classes. Some showers of
rain every few days, which causes things to grow and
flourish, and keeps the weather cool and pleasant.
There is a singular kind of toad, called a tree-toad, on
account of its being mostly seen on trees, up which it
climbs, where it sits, and in rainy weather makes a loud
noise similar to an English quail; but its greatest cu-
riosity is its power of changing its colour to that on
which it is placed, from nearly white to almost black,
and intervening colours; it is not done instantaneously
but gradually, in about ten or fifteen minutes. Had I
not witnessed it more than once, I certainly should not
have been easily convinced. While standing on the
wharf lately, a pleasant-behaved American came up to
me, and, in the true spirit of his country, was in an
instant as inquisitive and communicative as if we had
been particularly acquainted. Taking me for an Ame-
rican, he said he had just come from Salem, near Boston,
New England, after a lot of land some few miles back
of York, which had been made over to him for a
debt incurred for shoes sent from there to here, (i. e.
smuggled, of course). He never had been much from
home before, but said, “I see people are alike all over
the world;” and added, he had been taken as much
144 INQUIRIES OF
care of, and as civilly treated, in Canada, as he had
been in the States, as far as he could see. This per-
son's surprise in finding people in Canada as civilized
and polite as in the States, is by no means singular
among Americans. Gardens in York are generally in
good order (better than I have seen elsewhere in Ame-
rica), and the vegetables, &c. in them very thriving,
except when too much crowded or under fruit trees.
Brewers appear to do well. There are two or three
in York thriving, who began with but little. A porter
brewer would, I think, succeed well, if he made a good
article.
Aug. 21.—Sail for Kingston in a schooner made by
two farmers, brothers—farmers are ship-builders, or
any, or every thing, as inclination leads, or necessity
dictates | A few good ship-builders are wanted on
both Lakes, and likewise a few steady sailors. The
latter get from 14 to 18 or 20 dollars per month during
summer, and the former 1% to 2 dollars per day.
Aug. 27.-After experiencing a smart gale, and some
head winds and calms, we arrived at Kingston with a
fair wind and pleasant weather. As you approach the
town by Long Island it looks very fine. Point Frederic
in front, on which is situated the navy yard, barracks,
offices, and houses of the government officers and
others, has a very similar appearance, in miniature, to
New York and vicinity. Kingston is an old settled
place, situated on the west bank of the Catarauqnui
river, opposite the naval depôt, over which a large
bridge is about to be built of wood. Wooden bridges in
this country, generally, are the most proper at present,
being more economical, requiring less outlay from the
AN EMIGRANT. 145
scanty finances of a new country; yet, as there is here
such immense rocks, and good building and lime-stone,
on the spot (laid bare by an overflowing of the water
over the surrounding neighbourhood at some early
period), I should have supposed it would have been
nearly as cheap, and if so, certainly more desirable for
its durability and strength. The harbour is good, and
an excellent place for wharfs; but, with the exception
of two or three, you run the risk of a broken limb in
crossing them. The houses are built chiefly of stone,
and generally larger than those in York; the streets
are also paved with stones (in rather a rough manner),
which gives it much the appearance of a small-sized
market town in England, about 3000 inhabitants. There
are a number of good stores, and three or four large
druggists' shops, as elegantly arranged as some in
London, and in all their neatness of order, much better
than the general part I have seen in America. A pretty
large and handsome stone-built church, and another
small one belonging to the Establishment, besides Ro-
man Catholic, Presbyterian, and Methodist places of
worship. I like the appearance of Kingston generally,
but it is not so thriving as York; and here also there is
a little of the American feature before noticed. Houses
and premises half built and half in ruins, unmeaning,
slovenly arrangements, &c.; but they are fully counter-
balanced by a number of specimens of real neatness
and order, in different parts of the town, and parti-
cularly along the banks of the bay. The military
establishment in the neighbourhood causes some little
business, yet the inhabitants complain times are not
now as they have been. A band of music from the
L
146 INQUIRIES OF
barracks parades the town occasionally at night, play-
ing lively airs. Four steam-boats ply between here
and Prescott, and up the bay of Quintie (pronounced
Kanty, or Canty), besides three to Niagara, York, and
Queenston, once a week. Three very large ships of
war on the stocks, one above a hundred guns, where
they have remained since the war. Kingston is inha-
bited chiefly by Europeans, the greater part Irish, I
believe; considerable numbers of Scotch, some Ameri-
cans, and a few English. With a little of the down-
right hearty good-feeling of my countrymen, I also
witnessed some of the haughty Superciliousness of aris-
tocratic pride, and the impudence of pampered menials.
The market is well supplied with meat, fruit, and vege-
tables. Potatoes very fine, and only 10d. per bushel
now, they have been higher. Apples 13. 6d. per bushel.
Peaches dear, 6s. 9d, to 9s. ditto, brought from Niagara
and the Genessee river. Melons of various prices, from
6d. to 2s. 6d. each. Plums, pines, &c. Beef 4d. per lb.
Great quantities of the tall European thistle hereabout,
and seed flying in all directions. If there be no means
taken to prevent them spreading, by mowing them
before their seeding time, they will prove a curse to
this country in a few years, as they increase surpris-
ingly, and here literally cover the ground in places.
Durham boats, with produce, run from here to Mon-
treal, and large rafts of staves and lumber from the
bay of Quintie. The Rideau canal is commenced a
little above Kingston, which it will greatly benefit, par-
ticularly if reduced to a boat canal only. It at first was
intended to be made large enough for schooners and
steam-boats. It has been unusually sickly hereabouts:
AN EMIGRANT, 147
fevers and agues, and what are called dumb agues,
which are the worst, and sometimes fatal, have been
very prevalent. The work on the above canal has been
entirely stopped by them for the present, until the cool
weather comes on: the neighbourhood where they are
now cutting is swampy, with a number of ponds and
small lakes.
Aug. 29.—The last two or three nights the aurora
borealis, or northern lights, have been remarkably bril-
liant and grand. The assizes are now holding in the
new-built court house, which is large and spacious,
with a dome in the roof, and is well constructed to
convey the sound of the pleaders' voices to the audi-
ence. The gaol is contained under the same roof.
Court-houses and gaols in this country are mostly
large, well constructed, and convenient. A number of
Irishmen, Orangemen, and Catholics, under trial for
rioting. The land in the immediate vicinity of the
town is but inferior, indeed in many places nothing but
bare rock, and large loose uncovered stones; but I'am
told there are very fine tracts a few miles back. No
gardens of any account, for the above reason. Peaches,
I am informed, will not thrive here.
Sept. 10.-Left Kingston in the steam-boat for York,
cabin passage 45s. and boarded, on deck 13. 6d. and
find yourself; the same to Niagara and Queenston.
Got up part of the bay of Quinties, and called at the
small village of Bath to take in two passengers. This
bay is fifty miles long, and quite narrow, formed by
a chain of islands along one side (the isle of Kanti is
the largest), and the main land on the other. It is
beautifully varied and picturesque, with gentle slopes to
L 2
asſ
148 INQUIRIES OF
the water's edge, and pretty thickly settled and cleared,
farm-houses every little way, strikingly like the Dela-
ware river in the state of that name. America can
boast of as noble bays, rivers, and lakes, as the world
produces. The weather of late has been fine and plea-
sant, and generally so through the season; very few
unpleasant hot days, and rather a cool summer.
Sept. 12.—Arrived in York. The schooner Michigan,
of 130 tons burthen, in which I came down Lake Erie,
was purchased for a trifling sum (after being stripped
of every thing valuable) by the tavern-keepers at the
Falls, to be sent adrift down them, to attract customers
and amuse the public. Saturday, the 8th, was the day
appointed by advertisement, when it was calculated
about 8000 spectators were assembled on each side of
the river to witnesss her descent; she was conducted to
the head of the rapids, and them left to be carried
down by the current, with a number of wild animals on
board, two bears, some foxes, and a buffalo, cats, dogs,
geese, &c. As was expected, she went to pieces on the
shelves in the rapids, when some of the animals were
able to make the Canadian shore, but the others were
killed and washed over the Falls; one goose only re-
mained alive of the latter; one of the two bears which
made the shore in safety, I have seen on board the
steam-boat; it is a tame one, and is intended, it is said,
as a present to his Majesty; and the other, to the Pre-
sident of the United States.
Sept. 15.-Left York on board the steam-boat for
Niagara late last night, when early this morning we
discovered a fire a-head, which we all supposed to be
the lighthouse of Fort Niagara, but found it the large
AN EMIGRANT. 149
steam-boat Frontinac, set adrift after being fired by
some incendiary; she had been laid in harbour, for the
purpose of having her machinery and iron taken out
(which was in progress) for a new one about to be built,
this one being old and not sea-worthy. Our captain
ordered a hawser to be fastened to her bows, which as
yet had not taken fire, and we towed her into her old
station on the beach, so that but little of her iron will
be lost. The assizes just over here in Niagara. One
person, a soldier, hung lately for murdering his wife.
Hanging is but rare in this country as yet, and I trust
it ever will be, the laws generally being executed in a
more lenient, and I think for that reason in a more
judicious manner, for petty crimes, than in England.
Sept. 21.—At Chippawa, 150 young Americans, train-
ing as cadets for officers, were viewing the Falls, and
the battle grounds on the Canada side, &c.
Fort Erie, Oct. 1–The weather for the last fortnight
has been cloudy, dull, and coldish, but no rain of any
consequence. Mr. Galt, the agent of the Canada Land
Company, has begun a settlement on the Grand River,
and near its head, which is settling fast, and chiefly by
old country people; a few lately arrived from South
America, whither they had emigrated, but left it dissa-
tisfied. Roads are cutting to various points, and a
canal is talked of. A town or city is commenced and
proceeding fast, which is named Guelph, in honour of
the Royal Family, that being their patronimic name.
150 INQUIRIES OF
CHAPTER VIII.
General Habits, Customs, and Modes of Cultivation
practised by original Settlers, described—The value of
Canada to Great Britain—Thoughts on the original
eatent of the Lakes—State of the Forests—Produce of
the Land—and outgoings and profits of a Farm shown.
THE winter of 1827-8 was open and dry, and mills
could not grind for want of water; a wet cold spring
followed. The alternate rain and frosts, without a snow
covering, hurt the wheat and made it thin on the ground
(indeed, every kind of grain is grown too thin in
general in this country), and the warm weather coming
on made it stole, or tiller, and run up too quick, when
the hot dry weather caused it to mildew and rust, and
of course thin in the grain. Have been busy during
the winter and spring, in conjunction with a partner,
erecting a saw mill, to saw black walnut-tree for fur-
niture.
The summer of 1828 various and changeable; some
very hot days, but generally pleasant, with showers.
The wheat crop, throughout the two provinces, and the
northern and western States, is a very inferior one, and
I believe, in some measure, so in England, which has
caused it to rise here to 4s. 6d. in the west, and 6s. or
7s. in the east and Lower Canada. Indian corn is ex-
cellent, and also all other spring crops, and hay. The
scarcity of wheat has caused cash to be given for it by
AN EMI GRANT. 151
the merchants in all parts of the province; and in the
London district, where the crops of wheat are tolerably
good, numbers of fresh storekeepers have started, the
consequence is, the fall of merchandize full one-third,
particularly in dry goods. A general election this
summer, which occurs every four years, if not sooner
dissolved. At the one for the county of Middlesex,
where there was a spirited opposition continued the
whole week (which is the extent allowed by law) with-
out any great advantage on either side, no vulgar abuse
was used; in other respects it was carried on similar to
ours in England, drinking, occasional fighting, &c.;
the latter of which arose not from political quarrels, but
private drunken squabbles.
I have sometimes read of travellers in this country
being in danger of their lives, through the woods being
on fire all around them but I believe they have, for-
tunately, always been able to escape to tell the wonder-
ful stories. The fact is, it is only the leaves, and rotten
logs, that take fire in the woods; and it is almost
needless to add, there is no personal risk from them
whatever, the smoke only being a little annoying. But
if the wind should be brisk in a dry time, fences, and
sometimes buildings, are in danger of these running
fires.
Bees thrive remarkably well, often producing three
or four and sometimes more swarms from one hive;
they gather a good deal of honey from the woods, and
there are often swarms fly into the woods and take up
their abode in a hollow tree, which the settlers chop
down, and take their honey at the proper season.
Honey is worth from three pence half-penny to five
152 INQUIRIES OF
pence per pound. Many of the Canadians, Americans,
and settlers are rather improvident and wasteful; this,
I think, may be traced to habits induced by the pecu-
liar circumstances in which they were unavoidably
placed at the first settlement of the country; and like
all other habits not easily shaken off.
The public prints at this period more than hinted
that Great Britain intended giving up this fine province
to the United States for an equivalent; and although
many persons deemed the apparent inattention of the
government to the importance of Canada, a sanction to
the rumour, it was too absurd to be seriously thought of
by any reflecting person. During the late war, the
moble stand made by the inhabitants, showed the value
they placed upon British laws and protection, and
proved that they do not want a separation, if treated
with justice and liberality; they quickly fire, if attack
is made on their freedom and privileges, but they are
as loyal as any county in England. At the commence-
ment of the late war, the province was invaded by the
Americans in great force, who had the choice of points
of attack: they burnt several places, and expected an
easy conquest, from the unprepared state of defence;
yet with scarcely 1000 regular troops, and undisciplined
militia, drawn from a population of 50,000 men,
(scarcely one to a square mile) they guarded a line of
500 miles, and eventually repelled their assailants.
The conduct of the Americans in that war has drawn
the bonds of connexion closer to England, and the addi-
tional population, cultivation, resources, commerce, and
revenue of the country, will become of such importance
as to render the possessors of Canada virtually sove-
AN EMIGRANT. 153
reigns of the sea; therefore to yield this province to
“the most restless and ambitious nation on the globe,”
would be to enable them to become conquerors of all
our other possessions in America and the West Indies,
and render it unnecessary for them to supplicate a
favour from any power in the world.
There are ample proofs that the lakes and bodies of
water in these extensive countries, have covered a much
larger space than they now occupy; for the Mountain
as it is generally called, which runs by Queenston to
Ancaster (and onward north-west) within a few miles
of the south of the head of Lake Ontario, approaching
it at its extreme point, is evidently an original bank of
Ontario. The beds of gravel and sand, in courses, the
washed muddy clay, and indeed the sub-soil in general,
between the mountain and the present boundary of the
lake, as well as the off-sets and broken fragments that
tumble from the mountain sides, and the level table
land above, all coincide to prove the fact. How far this
original bank has extended on the States' side, I have
not the means of knowing, but it is the same at
Lockfort, where the locks are situated, on the Erie
Canal. It is possible the head of the Mohawk and
Hudson rivers were within its boundary; and perhaps
the tremendous Kaatskill mountains formed the outline
on that side. In Canada it may be traced a consider-
able distance with the eye from the lake. This bank is
in some places more than 300 feet high. At the back
of Kingston, thirty or forty feet, or perhaps more, above
the present high water-mark of the lake, there are places
where the rock is not only quite bare of soil, but the
interstices washed out, and chasms have been also
154 INQUIRIES OF
made, evidently by the washing of the water over this
part, exactly similar to the rock at the bottom of the
lake, near Fort Erie, which is often laid bare by a strong
east wind blowing the water back up the lake.
The water in the lakes this winter has fallen to the
general level, or rather lower, which may be attributed
to the extraordinary dryness of the fall and winter, and
the almost constant westerly winds, which have blown
so much of the water down, and consequently out of the
lakes. So dry has it been, that now, at the latter end
of January, there has been so little rain or snow that
the swamps are as completely dry as they were during
the last summer, and mills cannot grind on many of the
creeks for want of water: the season, for mildness and
pleasant clear weather, was hardly ever known to be
equalled, except four years ago. It is generally be-
lieved that the seasons are much more temperate of late
years than at the first settlement of the province. In
December last, a large piece of the rock over which the
water pours at the Niagara Falls, gave way; the noise
and shock, it is said, were heard and felt at Chippawa.
It has somewhat altered its appearance; the hore-shoe
is now deeper and more circular.
Oct. 10.-Sailed again in a schooner for the west
from Fort Erie, late at night; as high a wind came on
as I almost ever witnessed. Our little vessel bounded
off the rolling surges, without shipping any seas; but
our sails being old, all gave way, and at day-light we
had not a single sail left| The consequence was, we
were fast drifting ashore in a direct line for a reef of
rocks, that run out near a mile from a point of land;
we used every exertion to round this point, as there was
AN EMIGRANT. 155
a good harbour there for anchorage, where numbers of
schooners had already run in, and three steam boats;
one of the former stuck for a moment on its point, but
the swells washed her over. As we found we could not
accomplish our object, we had no alternative, but to put
the vessel about, and run ashore on the sand beach,
just above the reef, which was done in a very favourable
spot; on approaching the shore, the swells were so
large and short, that her stern was raised, and her bows
driven under water; but on striking the bottom, she
rebounded; and after striking two or three times, was
driven close to the beach; so that watching the retreat
of the waves, we all jumped out without being above
our knees in water. We then instantly turned too at
our merchandize, both sailors and passengers, the latter
being the owners of the goods on board; nearly half
we had accomplished, when through hunger, and fatigue
in the water, we had to desist awhile, and procure other
help from the neighbouring settlers; twenty or thirty
of whom came before night, and we then soon cleared
the vessel of the remaining goods, which were consi-
derably damaged by the water breaking over the vessel
into the hold, and as the rolling had sprung some of the
planks on her side.
We had to remain a week in the neighbourhood,
until another schooner was procured to take us off.
After clearing the vessel, she was driven “high and
dry” as they term it, being on the subsiding of the
storm sixteen or eighteen yards from the water; forty
or fifty hands were procured, and the vessel raised on
blocks, to have her planks fastened and caulked, which
was done in ten or twelve days, and she was once more
156 INQUIRIES OF
launched into her element. Several schooners were
driven ashore from their anchors in various parts of
the lake, and one of them quite into the wood, so
violent was the storm; but I have heard of no total
wrecks. Arrived safe at Port Stanley or Kettle Creek,
where there are two piers just finished, to keep the
sand from blocking the mouth of the river; but it is
so much exposed, that the entire accomplishment is
very doubtful.
Lake Erie has also had a more extreme boundary
than at the present time, which is particularly evident
at both ends of it, and as high up as Long Point, from
the lower end, and nearly or quite across to Lake
Ontario. I should suppose, by the sandbanks and
other evident former boundaries, that the water in
Lake Erie has stood thirty or forty feet higher than
now. The Indians have a tradition, that both lakes
formerly joined.
This fall (1828) has been unusually sickly at the
lower part of the province, particularly near the shores
of Lake Ontario, supposed to be in consequence of the
very extraordinary high water in the lakes this season,”
being three or four feet higher than was ever known
before on both the lakes; but the generally high banks
of Erie prevented any ill effects. There has been a
report that the high water was caused by the breaking
away of some portion of the land-barrier in the river
between Lake Superior and Huron.
* It is generally asserted and believed, that the water in
the lakes rises annually for seven successive years, and then
gradually sinks that number, alternately. That it has been
rising the last two years, is a fact.
AN EMIGRANT, 157
May 1, 1829.-Winter mild, dry, and open till the
middle of February, when we had a little snow and
some sharp frost, but no rain, and the frost not steady;
indeed, only a few days sleighing together, occasionally,
till the latter end of March, when the snow entirely
cleared off; and some few showers of rain came about
the 1st of April; but the swamps have not been filled
at all this spring.
July 18.—The month of May was rather hot through-
out; thermometer as high as 86 degrees at times, which
brought on the crops very rapidly. June, and up to the
present time cool, pleasant weather; thermometer 10
degrees below.what it was in May. All kinds of crops
good, particularly the wheat, which is elegant, as the
Americans term it, and of very superior quality.
There is a great variety of timber in this country: a
short sketch of the most valuable, and the uses to
which it is applied, is subjoined. It generally stands
pretty thick on the ground, from one to six or eight
yards apart: white-oak, good for ship-building; staves,
and square timber for exportation, wheelwrights, coopers,
&c. Red and swamp oak, fit for rails and other inferior
purposes, but bad to burn. Pine, for shingle boards,
and other lumber, building, &c. Black walnut, cherry,
and curled maple, for cabinet work. Young hickory,
for flails, axe-handles, handspikes, and horsewhips,
hoops, &c. Basswood (lime-tree or linden), used by
coach and chair makers, for its lightness, and for bars
instead of gates, holes being made in the posts to let
them inside, which are used in the new settlements:
basswood bark, for ropes. Butternut-tree and cedar,
for bar-posts, &c. Sugar-maple and two other sorts, for
158 INQUIRIES OF
firewood. Chestnut and white wood, for boards, and
the former, with two or three sorts of ash and hickory,
for rails. Hemlock and oak bark, for tanning. Button-
wood (sycamore); beech, two sorts; elm, two sorts;
birch, two sorts; locust, balm of Gilead (very large),
Sassafras, juniper, tamrisk, &c. Trees here, in general,
are not so tough as in England, except those that stand
open and exposed.
The method pursued, on going into the woods (or
bush, as it is termed) to settle, is, to clear a proper site
for a house, and cut logs for that purpose into proper
lengths. This can be done in a week by one person. He
then invites his neighbours to raise it, which they will
do in, a day. He has them to build a chimney; the
bottom of stones, the top wattled with small lathwood,
and plastered with tempered clay; the hearth to be laid
with stones, if bricks are not made in the neighbour-
hood. [They are made in all the old settled parts, and
sold at about from 23s. to 30s. per thousand]. Boarded
floor, the boards to be procured at a saw-mill, if one
be near; if not, some split and hewed logs will answer
the purpose.* If the settler arrives on his lot in the
spring, which is best, or early in the summer, he next
clears off a piece of ground for potatoes and corn, the
first summer, by chopping the trees down about four
feet from the ground; he then cuts them into fourteen
* Saw and grist mills cost from 180l. to 600l. in erecting,
according to the expense in making the dam, and the man-
ner in which they are finished. A single saw, with plenty
of water, will cut from 800 to 2000 feet per day, according
to the water-power and the kind of wood, which sells at
the mills at from 20s. to 35s. per 1000 feet superficial
}The9 SUIT6.
AN EMIGRANT. 1.59
feet lengths, and throws their heads into brush heaps,
hauls the logs into heaps, six or eight in each, with a
yoke of oxen, and a hand or two to help; he then burns
them, as well as the brush heaps, and preserves the
ashes, if a potashery be in the neighbourhood.* Ob-
serve, when felling the trees, to bring them down along-
side each other as much as possible, and their heads
where you make the brush heaps; and be careful they
do not fall on yourself, for should one lodge on another
that is standing, it is dangerous getting it down, to one
unacquainted with the business; besides, the boughs
breaking, are often propelled back with great force.
There are too often people killed by trees in new set-
tlements, where several are at work together, and all
new beginners. Plant the corn and potatoes without
ploughing, as before described. Now clear more land
in the same way for wheat, to be sown in the fall; and
afterwards some for oats, next spring, for the cattle—
each to be only harrowed in, without ploughing. Set-
tlers generally sow Timothy grass among the wheat or
oats, but red clover is far preferable by itself or mixed
with the former, or (could it be procured) good rye or
vernal grass. White or Dutch clover generally springs
up in a year or two, spontaneously on some land, yet
perhaps it would be better to sow it if it could be pro-
cured, as it would come immediately, and be more
uniform. A good chopper will chop an acre or more
of moderately heavy timber in a week, and in making
* Ashes are generally preserved in little log-houses made
on the spot for the purpose, to be kept dry for sale in the
winter, to merchants, at 5d. per bushel, or to steep them
yourself in water, and boil the lye until evaporated to
black salts (coarse potash), to be sold at from 9s. to 18s.
160 INQUIRIES OF
a bee for logging, four or five acres can be drawn into
heaps in a day, by giving 4s. or 5s, worth of whisky and
something to eat; but of course you must assist at the
bees of others if required. There are generally plenty
of people willing to go to bees, for the sake of the com-
pany and the whisky, and frolic at night. They work
briskly at these bees, and in good humour, striving
against each other.
To a person who is about to settle on entire wood-
land, I would recommend the following system: after
well clearing a few acres in the immediate vicinity in
which the house is intended to be built, and all round,
that the trees left standing may be at sufficient dis-
tance to be out of danger of falling on it, and a small
piece fenced off for cattle to lie in at night, out of the
same danger, in windy weather; then cut down, on
ten or fifteen acres, the small and decayed trees and
underbrush, burn them, and girdle the remainder of
the trees; sow this ground with wheat early in the fall,
or part with oats in the spring, and with them clover,
and a small quantity of grass seeds mixed; the clover
grass to be mowed the first year or two, and grazed
afterwards. Do the same the next year with some
more, for six or seven years in succession, and likewise
clear a small piece quite off, for corn and potatoes,
cabbages, &c. in front of the house, and next to the
road or street. In about six or seven years the roots
of the trees will be rotten, and some of the girdled ones
fallen; then begin and chop down ten or fifteen acres
of these girdled trees, yearly, in a dry time, felling
them across each other to break them into pieces; put
fire into them in various parts of the field, and it will
AN EMIGRANT, I61
burn most of them up; what little may be left uncon-
sumed, must be collected into heaps and burnt. It is
necessary to keep a watch over the fences while this
is going on, that they do not take fire. After this you
may plough, and plant what you please, as generally
the ground will be in pretty good condition.
This system is pursued in some plains, and ought to
be more generally adopted, particularly the first few
years of entering upon an entire wild farm, on account
of the little trouble at a time there is so much else to
do. But some object, and say there is too much danger
that the cattle will be killed by the falling of the girdled
trees, and the fences also broken. To which I answer,
cattle need not be near them, only a little in the fall of
the first two years, as the clover and grass will be mown
for hay; and they may be put there only in still wea-
ther afterwards, and in the day time; and as to the
fences, after cutting out the decayed standing trees,
and a few of those that stand near, and have an incli-
nation towards them, there will be but few, if any, rails
broken by their falling; and if there should be a few,
they can soon be replaced, as one man will cut and
split five or six rods of fence in a day, and put it up,
if the timber be good. In choosing a farm, or lot of
wild land, or indeed, any land in this country, it should
always be first ascertained if there be plenty of good
rail timber growing thereon, such as oak, hickory, ash,
cedar, chestnut, pine, butternut, cherry, and black
walnut; but good trees of the two latter kind, I would
never use for that purpose, as they now are useful, and
will be in a few years very valuable, for furniture, &c.,
as there are, comparatively speaking, but few in the
M
162 INQUIRIES OF
country, and none of walnut much below the head of
Lake Ontario. Nor would I recommend wasting fine
straight white oak that is growing near any water com-
munication, as it is valuable for staves, &c. And the
sugar maple tree, if growing in what is called bushes,
that is a number together, should never be wantonly
destroyed, as it is a useful and valuable appendage to
a farm. If the above system be adopted, there will be
but very little ploughing the first few years, and only
one yoke of oxen be required. But should it be thought
prudent to clear all the timber off the land at once, it
should always, as much as possible, be sown the first
or second year with clover, or clover and grass seeds,
to lie until the stumps are rotten before being ploughed;
when fire should be put into each stump, and the
greater part will burn up. Near towns and villages,
almost all kind of wood is valuable as cord wood for
fuel, and when drawn in, sold at from 6s. 9d. to 9s. or
10s. per cord. Good pine, growing near a lake, or
river communicating with one, is becoming valuable.
Near the Otter Creeks, land can be had cleared for
the pines growing thereon.
I have sometimes heard it asserted in this country,
that a farm cannot be cultivated to a profit in America,
if the whole of the labour done on it be hired; which
I am confident is erroneous. That some are not, in
the way they are managed, I readily admit; but that,
under judicious management, they cannot be, my little
experience convinces me of the contrary. To make it
intelligible, I will state the whole hired expenses, and
the value of the produce of a small farm, for a year;
and if it can be proved that a profit, however small,
AN EMIGRANT. 163
may be made on the cultivation of seventy acres only,
of cleared land, when the labour is all hired, it will
appear evident that a worthy farmer and two or three
sons doing all, or only part of this work, must be im-
proving his circumstances, and that a larger farm may
be managed to a proportionate profit. A farm of good
land can be purchased on, or about Talbot-street, or
almost any where in the western part of the province,
and the back settlements of the middle parts, at from
23 dollars (11s. 3d.) to 5 dollars (22s. 6d.) per acre;
and at but a moderate advance, exclusive of buildings,
according to situation, &c., in any part of the province.
I have calculated the statement in dollars at 4s. 6d.
sterling.
A farm of 200 acres; 70 cleared ; with a good log, or
small frame house, or barn, and a young orchard, &c.; 200
acres, say at 4 dollars, or 18s. per acre, 800 dollars, or 180l. ;
—100 dollars, or 221. 10s, paid down as part of the pur-
chase, and 221. 10s. yearly, and interest until paid, of the
remainder. A person with 200l. may settle very comfortably
on such a farm, and cover all necessary outgoings; and the
following items would be required. Dollars.
As stock, &c., two yoke of oxen, one well broken yoke,
45 dollars; one yoke of steers, unbroken, 35 dollars . 80
Three ox chains, 12 dollars; two yokes, 3 do.; sled, 5 do. 20
A horse (or brood mare) to ride, go to mill, &c., plough
between potatoes, corn, &c. . g º • tº
Light Jersey waggon, second hand (a new one would
be 65 dollars), with spring seat, both for pleasure and
profit, 50 dollars; harness, 10 dollars; and saddle,
15 dollars . º * iº g * & . 75
Two ploughs, 18 dollars; harrows, 6 dollars; two axes,
50
5 dollars; hoes, &c. 3 dollars º: º . 32
Six cows at 15 dollars each, six calves and heifers at 5
dollars ſº tº º g * ſº º . 190
Two sows, 6 dollars; thirty store pigs at 1 dollar each 36
Twenty sheep at 13 dollar each . & Q ve . 25
Geese, fowls, &c., 5 dollars & g & w . 5
M 2
164 INQUIRIES OF
Brought forward tº ... dollars 443
Household furniture—three beds and bedding, 50 dol-
lars; tables, 10 dollars; crockery, 10 dollars; pots
and kettles, 10 dollars ; clock, 15 dollars; common
chairs, # dollar each ; painted Windsor ones, one to
two dollars each, say 10 dollars . o e . I 17
The first deposit, towards payment of farm º . 100
148l. 10s., or 660
One Year's Outgoings and Eapenses.
Girdling ten acres of woods, clearing out the underbrush
and fern, 5 dollars per acre . º e º . 50
Seed wheat for the same (1} bushel per acre), at # dollar
per bushel . º ſº © & © º . 9
Sowing and harrowing of ditto © e e ... 5
Ten acres wheat sown after peas, ploughing 2 dollars
20
€I 3.Cre e º g e © º e e
sº as above, 9 dollars; sowing and harrowing 5 dollars 14
Cradling and binding the 20 acres, at 1% dollar per acre 30
Carting and stacking, 23 dollars © º º . 23
Thrashing 360 bushels, at one-tenth of a dollar . . 27
Suppose ten acres of clover sown the year before with oats
at 7 lbs. per acre (often only three or four lbs. sown) 8
Mowing first crop early clover for hay, # dollar per acre;
getting together, 1 dollar (it wanting no making),
and hauling together, 1% dollar . e 35
Mowing the second crop for seed, &c. e g . 35
Thrashing the seed, two bushels produce per acre, at
1 dollar per bushel © º 20
Ten acres ploughed for peas, 2 dollars per acre (often
done for 1% dollar); seed for ditto, three bushels
(generally only two), at # dollar per bushel . . 35
Sowing and harrowing, 5 dollars; thrashing 50 bushels,
3 dollars e º tº e e • º ... 8
[The remainder, 150, give to hogs in the straw un-
thrashed, if the straw be not good for sheep and cattle,
i. e. not got well); but if good, I would recommend
it being given to the sheep, lightly thrashed, as the
very best food to be had here for them, and which
they are very fond of].
Four acres of oats for calves, sheep, milch cows and
horse, the seed three bushels per acre, at # dollar per
bushel, 3 dollars; ploughing, &c. 10 dollars . . 13
tº)
AN EMIGRANT. 1.65
Brought forward . . dollars 332
Six acres corn, ploughing twice, 18 dollars; planting
and harrowing, 4 dollars; two hoeings, 9 dollars;
ploughing between the rows, 2 dollars; husking, &c.
12 dollars; hauling and thrashing, and seed, 10 dollars 65
Eight acres in Timothy or other grass, for hay, mowing
and stacking, as for clover e dº * tº . 24
Twelve acres in sheep pasture
Two acres for potatoes, cabbages, turnips, and other
vegetables for house (chiefly), sheep, calves, &c.;
hiring a stout boy at 5 dollars per month, and board
for a year, to attend cattle, milk, &c. . tº ... 100
To the above expenses may be added one year's interest
of the purchase money, yet unpaid ; being 6 per
cent. on 700 dollars gº © * ſº ſº . 42
Total 563
Produce of the 70 Acres.
Twenty acres of wheat, at 18 bushels per acre (some-
times thirty), at # dollar per bushel ſº . . 270
Ten acres of clover seed, at two bushels per acre, and
seven dollars per bushel sº º e º . 140
Six acres of Indian corn, 25 bushels per acre, 150 bushels,
at # dollar . tº Ç º e & tº . 75
Thirty store pigs" (for fattening next season) . . 30
Thirty fat hogs, weighing, at least, 200 lbs. each (or
one barrel), thirty barrels at 12 dollars per barrel .. 360
Six cows, butter and cheese for summer . e . 60
A yoke of fat oxen, 60 dollars (besides a cow or two
killed for the house) . e tº e wº . 60
Twenty lambs 20 dollars, and twenty fleeces of wool
20 dollars . * * e tº & * . 40
Geese, feathers, eggs, fowls, &c. * wº * . 10
*º-º-º:
One year's farm produce g . 1045
Ditto expenses . & tº . 563
*m.
Surplus “s º º dollars 482
* Five bushels of Indian corn, or peas, will fatten a fresh store
hog, or keep one through the winter; they get their living in the
woods and pastures during the summer, also during the winter when
nuts are plentiful, which generally happens three years out of five.
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With the beef and vegetables allowed above, 282
dollars will keep a family of four or five persons well
during the year, leaving a clear profit of 200 dollars,
or 45l., besides the improvement of the farm; and if
hemp or tobacco were made part of the productions,
the profits, probably, would be larger. No one that is
well acquainted with Canada, will, I think, say that I
have made a partial statement. Some may think I
have stated the number of fat hogs on so small a farm
in one season, too high, as there are but a very few
farmers that fatten so many. I allow there are not
many; yet as there are some that do, and as I have
allowed sufficient grain for the purpose, if there be
any nuts at all in the woods, that objection, of course,
falls to the ground. It would be to the interest of the
Canadian farmers, particularly those in back settle-
ments, to pay more attention than they now do, both
to the breeding and feeding of hogs. There is too
little spirit and taste for improvements, for want of a
proper stimulus. As there is comparatively but little
capital vested in farming pursuits, there are no leading
characters to introduce, or excite, a spirit of improve-
ment. For this purpose I would strongly recommend
the immediate establishment of agricultural societies in
each district. They have been established in Lower
Canada, Nova Scotia, and New Brunswick, as well as
in the United States, with very general success and
benefit to the community; and as the Upper Canadians
have an emulative spirit, I am confident their intro-
duction would produce a spirit of enterprise equal to
that of any country. If farms were set apart in each
district for the purpose, and conducted by a competent
AN EMI GRANT. 167
person, the most approved system of farming intro-
duced, and the improved breeds of cattle, sheep, &c.,
selected and imported, with superior implements of
husbandry, and clover, grass, and other seeds cultivated,
with an annual exhibition and sale by auction of the
same, and appropriate premiums given for agricultural
improvements, &c., the best effects would certainly
result to the whole community, and particularly to the
agricultural part of it. And if these farms, stocks, &c.
were judiciously arranged, I think they might be made
even a profitable concern.
Hemp, tobacco, and clover seed, may be made enrich-
ing staple articles in the western part of the province,
and to the advantage of the trade of Great Britain.
The finest clover seed can be raised, and by the agency
of thrashing machines, brought to market early enough
to be shipped to Europe in the same season. There is
a species of wild cotton growing about the fields, which,
of an improved kind, perhaps, might be of some ser-
vice in stuffing mattresses, &c., or to the manufacturer.
Every person must perceive the great advantages of
the provinces of Canada over the United States, with
regard to a market for the produce of the two coun-
tries. Canada can export to Great Britain timber,
grain, whisky, pork, hemp, clover, tobacco, and any
other produce at all times, on paying a trifling duty;
while the States often cannot export some of the articles
to Britain at all, except through Canada; and then,
and in every other case, by paying higher duties than
the Canadas.
168 INQUIRIES OF
CHAPTER IX.
Departure from Upper Canada to Quebec, and Return
to England.
July 22, 1829–Left the western part of the pro-
vince with a vessel load of lumber for the lower part,
by the way of Fort Erie and the Falls, landed on the
24th, and forwarded the lumber by Durham boats to
Chippawa, eighteen miles, to be drawn in waggons across
the Portage.
August 18.-Arrived at Kingston in a steam boat
from Niagara and York (a considerable influx of new
store-keepers into York this season), and left it on the
20th for Prescott, down what is called the river, having
the main land on the left, broken into numerous little
bays and inlets. On the right hand, hundreds of
islands of all sizes, from eight or ten miles across, to as
many rods only. We sometimes passed between two
of them, so near each, that an active person could
almost leap from the steam boat deck on either hand.
These islands are still retained in the hands of govern-
ment, generally; and are not inhabited, being in most
places too barren, except on the south sides, where
some squatters have made clearings, and settled, for
making rafts.
Stopped a few minutes at some places in our passage
down. Brockville is a handsome improving village,
AN EMIGRANT. 169
with two churches, and a number of good stone-built
houses. Stone wall fence is a new feature, and well-
cleared fields appear more like England than this new
country. The land is kindly and good, with a fine slope
from half a mile back to the river's edge, which is more
than a mile across, and nearly uniform banks. The
Canada side appears the best cleared and settled, with
large fields of twenty acres each, free from stumps, but
not from stones; and the grass, although the weather
is dry and hot, has a freshness not common at this time
of year. Very fine situations as far as Prescott, with
good substantial farm houses.
August 24. — Arrived at Prescott, nearly opposite
Ogdansburgh, on the States' side the river, a town
much larger than Prescott, but not so thriving, from
the latter place being the lowest part of the river that
lake-vessels and steam boats can run to; of course, the
produce is landed to be put in Durham boats and bat-
teaux for Montreal, and the passengers go by the same
or the stages. The latter run every day in the week,
except Sunday, during summer; steam boats also arrive
every day from different parts of the lake and bay of
Quintre. The charge 31s. 6d. to Montreal, 140 miles,
by stage and steam boats, in one day. Almost all the
villages are commercial ones, and thrive or decay ac-
cording as traffic and trade increase, or are directed into
other channels. When the Rideau canal is finished,
this place will cease to thrive. Houses are built of
stone chiefly, and some pretty large. Excellent wharfs
and warehouses both here and at Brockville, also three
churches, and a Methodist meeting-house, very near
each other. The English and Scotch churches are
170 INQUIRIES OF
built exactly of the same pattern, one on each side;
the other is Roman Catholic.
Some of the land about Prescott is very good red
loam on a limestone rock, some indifferent, and others
bad; sandy banks or swampy hollows, and in places
covered with fragments of rock; the wheat crops are
all just in, but corn not near ripe, a fortnight later than
in the south-western part of the province. Clover and
grass grow on this loamy soil very luxuriantly, but the
farms are not well managed, as there is not much of
either skill or capital employed in agriculture, most
other trades and branches of industry being conducted
with more advantage. Snow here last winter was four
feet; two and a half at York, and ten or twelve in the
West.
A considerable number of emigrants arriving up from
Montreal, in Durham boats; all of them going to the
upper part of the province, chiefly Highland Scotch and
Irish; some of tolerably decent, respectable appear-
ance, others a picture of squalid poverty. Some have
no point fixed as their destination; others have, near
some friends come before. One party for Talbot-street,
were going to Burlington at the head of the lake, when
they would have 100 miles of land carriage to haul their
luggage; while by Queenston, Chippawa, and Lake
Erie, there are only eight miles by land.
August 30.—Left Prescott for Montreal, with several
other passengers in a batteau or Canadian boat, in pre-
ference to the stage and steam boats, both for cheapness
of passage (4s. 6d. only), and particularly to see the
Rapids, which we had to go down. The country has a
fine appearance along the river, and land appears good,
AN EMIGRANT. 171
except in a few places. On coming to each rapid, the
boatmen (French Canadians) being Roman Catholics
perform slight.and quick acts of ceremonial devotion, the
captains or conductors particularly, there being danger in
some of them, for, should they not keep directly in the
proper channels down these shoals, or the boatmen not
keep the vessel steady and head-foremost, they are
indeed almost certain to be upset and lost. These
Rapids are very grand, and repay for once what risk
there may be in going down them, and in fine weather,
with a good boat and experienced men, I do not con-
ceive there is much danger. The Long Saut, a rapid of
nine miles in length, is very narrow and swift; this
distance, it is said, with a light loaded boat and wind
favourable, has been run in fifteen minutes, but it took
us full double that time. Crossed too small lakes, in
places quite shallow; steam boats ply across them.
Both sides of the St. Lawrence are in Canada. In Lower
Canada the houses are all built in French fashion, and
occupied by French Canadians. A house nearly every
hundred yards along the river banks, chiefly of one
story, with long roofs, and one door in front; two win-
dows on one side of the door, and one on the other, and
two or three at the ends of the house; and garrets.
Many stud-built and lath-plastered, and often rough-
cast and white-washed. Their barns are thatched, but
in a rough manner; the Americans call it shingling
with straw The Canadians are tolerably neat and
clean in their houses, and excepting the boatmen, and
a few of the lower classes, in their persons also; they
are of a nankeen, fresh colour; not many of them in the
country speak much English. We have passed several
172 INQUIRIES OF
pleasant villages on our route:–Cornwall, in Upper
Canada, Cota-dulac and Lachine, in Lower Canada, are
agreeably situated, and apparently thriving by the trade
from the Upper Province. Numbers of boats and bat-
teaux going up, which, in the Rapids, have to be pulled
and hauled with horses and oxen. In some places
there are locks to go through in going up, to avoid the
worst parts. It takes five or six days, and sometimes
more, going up from Montreal to Prescott, and two and
a half down.
Entered Lachine canal, nine miles above Montreal.
This canal is cut to avoid the Lachine Rapids, the most
dangerous and lowest on the river, of any importance.
It is small, admitting only boats. The first night we
put ashore after dark, at a tavern kept by a Dutchman,
to sleep; and although the boatmen assured us he was
a person of some property, he had miserable accommo-
dations. The second night stopped at Cota-dulac, at
a French tavern; a good house, but the beds all taken
by travellers, and too late to seek farther, so we had
some of us to be content with “a bunk,” or a “shake
down,” (sleep on a bed laid on the floor), no very un-
common thing for travellers in America. Warm
weather of late, but some rain and thunder last night
has cooled the air. Left Lachine in a caleche, or
calash, drawn by one horse, to Montreal; this was the
first time I saw the pluck and spirit of the little Cana-
dian or French horse. It is astonishing what heavy
weights they draw, thorough bottom, not handsome,
thick, bony, and fat, with hairy fetlocks. In carting
wood, stone, &c., about town, one person will manage
three or more carts with one horse each: he drives the
AN EMIGRANT. 173
first, the others follow close after. The first tavern I
stopped at in Montreal, I paid 4s. 6d. per day for board
and lodging; but after a few days I removed to another.
with very good accommodations, at 2s. 3d per day.
Montreal is a large and improving place, and of great
trade. Merchants from the Upper Province come here
once a year for a supply of merchandise for the coming
year, and take the money for the last year's produce sent
down. A considerable number of them are in the town
at the present time. Some of the streets are too narrow,
particularly St. Paul's-street, in which a great deal of
the wholesale business is done; the footways only three
or four feet wide. Some of the streets are tolerably well
paved, others roughly; and M*Adamising going for-
ward in some of them. Houses are mostly of stone,
neat, strong, and capacious; and if it were not for
their high sharp tinned roofs, would have much the
appearance of a large town in England. No private
warehouses; goods are landed on a high made bank,
and in some places on the beach of the river, and then
hauled up to the warehouses. The immense accumu-
lation of ice in the winter, has carried away some ware-
houses that had been built. Several vessels from
Europe, and steam-boats, are continually coming and
going to various parts up and down the river, and
such is the opposition by the two companies that run
them between Montreal and Quebec, that each has one
boat that carries passengers between the two places,
180 miles, in the cabin, and board, for 7s.6d. and the
deck passengers for 6d, each only The most remark-
able attraction in the place is the new Roman Catholic
church, the largest in America, and not surpassed in
I 74 INQUIRIES OF
size by a great many in Europe, covering, it is said, an
acre of land, and accommodating 12,000 people. It is
truly a grand stone building, elegantly and substantially
finished.
Sunday, Sept. 7.- At the Catholic church, about six
or seven thousand people. The sermon was in French;
congregation not large. I was also at the Episcopal
church; small and neat; no sermon. I also stepped
into the Methodist, and one of the Presbyterian meet-
ings, which were well-built places, and had considerable
congregations; shops all shut up, and no business going
on. The first settlers were of course French (belong-
ing to France when first settled), and a considerable
portion yet remain so; but most of the merchants and
traders are Americans and Europeans—chiefly Scotch.
The sides of the canal locks, at Montreal, are built of
hard cut stone (got somewhere in the vicinity); the
bottoms are of the same material, and the locks and the
masonry excellent. Two large warehouses not far from
its outlet, and three or four windmills. The fondness
of the French Canadians for windmills is rather remark-
able, when the river St. Lawrence, for 100 miles up, is
full of rapids, and the water could easily be applied to
any kind of machinery. A remarkable high mountain
at the back of the town (Mount Royal, or Mont-re-all,
as it is here pronounced), from which it derives its
name; it can only be ascended in a few places. It is
broken into two heads, and an excellent road passes
between them, and round the back of it, three or four
miles in length. Its top and sides are covered with
brushwood and small trees. In some places it is nearly
a perpendicular rock, with broken fragments, and large
AN EMI GRANT, 175
masses lie tumbled and scattered at its base. It has
evidently been overflown with water, and probably was,
afterwards, an island in the original large lake, bounded,
perhaps, by the New England and Kaatskill mountains,
as before supposed.
There are pleasant seats, owned by the merchants,
between the town and mountain, and round the foot of
it. If not for the extremes of climate, this might be
considered almost a paradise. Along the public road,
round, and over part of the mountain, is a beautiful
drive, having a fine perspective view of the town and
country in every direction. The race-ground is on one
side of the mountain, where the horses are daily train-
ing. There is a pack of fox-hounds kept in the neigh-
bourhood of Montreal, and a hunting club established.
On their first introduction, the Canadians thought the
Europeans were all going mad; and laughed at the
ridiculous idea of being pleased by galloping after a
fox! Large auction sales of merchandise every day,
the place full of bustle and business, and but few com-
plaints; scores of women are to be seen daily, along the
sides of the river, above and below the town, in the
water, washing clothes among the huge stones, on
which they beat the clothes with a kind of mallet,
instead of rubbing them, and appear to use but little
soap—an excellent way for the good of trade, as the
clothes are soon pounded to pieces. The two markets
are better supplied than most markets on the continent
of North America, and goods reasonably cheap, parti-
cularly within these few years since, as there has been
some spirit of enterprise excited by emigration. At-
tended an agricultural show, and was glad to perceive
176 INQUIRIES OF
some interest taken in it by the attendance of farmers
(or habitons) and the inhabitants generally; and although
but a small show, there were a few good Leicestershire
sheep, and one or two good bulls, but the cows rather
indifferent; a few good hogs, and a number of very
useful brood mares and foals, some Canadian, and some
English half-bloods. These are very useful institutions,
and ought to be more extended and patronised in both
provinces. On some conspicuous part of almost every
large farm hereabouts, there is a wooden cross set up,
and ridiculously surmounted by a wooden weathercock.
Crossing one of these farms, I saw a piece of sward
land, manured with common farm dung; and the good
effect was equal to any thing I had seen in England,
although it was badly spread. A few years back, I am
told, people hired others to take it out of the way, to
either throw it into the river, or lay it in heaps out of
town' The large quantities of dung necessarily made
in such a place as Montreal, and the apparently little
value set upon it even now, by the heaps thrown into
holes and treading to waste, the goodness and cheap-
ness of old cleared land, free from stumps (about 57 to
6l. only per acre) in the neighbourhood, and the com-
parative plenty and low price of labour (30s. to 35s. and
board per month), point this place out as an eligible
part for enterprising farmers with some capital, for any
kind of produce, particularly, I think, for the raising of
hemp and clover, as there are no taxes. Hemp grows
very luxuriantly about yards and fences, and the labour
required for manufacturing it for sale may be done in
the winter, when other work is scarce, and labourers,
of course, plenty; and as government will purchase any
AN EMI GRANT, 177
quantity, and premiums are given, I think it would
prove a most profitable speculation. A rope-walk in
connexion, would succeed excellently. Winter wheat is
but little sown in Lower Canada as yet; but a Canadian
informs me he knew a small piece this season that
answered extremely well, much better than the spring
wheat, yet farmers are afraid to try much on account
of the severity of the winter; but I think their fears
are groundless, as the snow would preserve it. Several
days racing, which were numerously attended. Some
good horses, and carried on with considerable spirit,
with a good deal of betting, and it is said, not a little
jockeying. An English horse here, and two or three
English jockeys. Houses in the city are covered with
tin, cut in diamond shapes, and also the churches. It
is very bright and durable, and the dryness of climate
keeps it from rusting; this, with sheet-iron shutters to
the windows and doors, in the best streets, is a great
preventive of fire.
Sept. 2,-Was Sultry, close, and warm, thermometer
80 degrees, some little rain came, and wind changed to
the north-west; and the next morning it was chilling
cold, then not much above 40 degrees. Large floats of
timber hourly passing down the river to Quebec, from
the upper province.
Sept. 23.—Left Montreal, for Quebec, at eight
o'clock at night, in the John Molson steamer, and
arrived at three o'clock the following day; distance,
180 miles; paid 18s. for a cabin berth. The river St.
Lawrence is truly called noble, and the scenery in many
places along its banks is grand. Passed some smart
villages and towns; and the roads are thickly studded
N
178 INQUIRIES OF
with long-roofed, neat, white houses; and the churches,
with their tin-covered roofs and aspiring pinnacles
glistening in the sun, have an enlivening appearance.
It is a pity the river has so many obstructions to navi-
gation at its upper part; as, otherwise, it would be the
most commercial stream in the world. There is only
one slight rapid between Montreal and Quebec (the
Richelieu), or indeed the Ocean, nearly 1000 miles,
and that is only difficult for large rafts in adverse
winds, its course being narrow, but deep. The tide
running a little above it, there is no rapid at high water.
Anticosta is a very large island, dangerous to naviga-
tion, lying across the gulf. Wessels of any size are
now invariably towed up by steamers from Quebec to
Montreal.
For the timber trade, Quebec is of great and growing
importance. This season, nearly 800 vessels have
already arrived, and numbers are daily arriving, too
many, indeed, as the lowness of the water in the rivers
this spring has prevented a great portion of the best
timber being brought to market. The consequence is a
rise in price of from 50 to 100 per cent. The best of
the timber growing near the shores of the St. Lawrence
and lower part of Lake Ontario, has been brought to
market; and when the Upper Canada canals are opened
there will be a fine field for the industrious lumberer
in the immense forests of superior timber, growing on
the shores of lakes Erie and Huron, and even Lake
Superior, and their tributary streams, which are inex-
haustible for centuries to come.
The time is not far distant when vessels will be built
on the Upper Lakes, 1500 miles from the sea, and
AN EMIGRANT, 179
freighted thence for Europe and the West Indies.
Indeed, one is already built for that purpose, and is now
plying on Lake Erie, waiting the completion of the
canals. On approaching Quebec, the river for miles
was lined along its sides with ships loading lumber.
Quebec is situated on a point of land (Cape Diamond),
on the north-west side of the river, and opposite to
Point Levi, nine miles above the falls of Montmorency,
and five or six above the island of Orleans. The old
town is a narrow, inconvenient, and dirty place: it is
situated under the immense rocks of hard black stone
which rise almost perpendicularly in some places, several
hundred feet, nearly all round the Cape; its length is,
extending upwards to Wolfe's Cove (the place where
General Wolfe landed on taking Quebec) two miles,
and downward to St. Roche, at the mouth of the St.
Charles's River, two miles. Near the latter there are
many new wharfs built, some ship-yards, steam and
saw mills, &c. The river St. Charles is a fine stream,
running through an extensive vale of good land, open,
cleared, and pretty well cultivated, partly by Scotch
and Irish. Viewing this vale from the heights of
Abraham, in fine weather, awakens recollections of a
former view of one of the beautiful champaign vales of
England.—The Upper Town is much better built,
having wider streets, and is altogether more handsome;
it is founded upon the above-mentioned rock, overlook-
ing the Lower Town, the shipping, the country north
of the Isle of Orleans, and Point Levi, across the river.
The Upper Town is walled in, and is amazingly strong
both by nature and art, particularly the citadel, on the
highest and outermost point of Cape Diamond, and is
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180 INQUIRIES OF
still improving. Strangers are not allowed ingress to
it, without a ticket. It is a second Gibraltar, and the
key of the Canadas. There is a good garrison sta-
tioned here, who enliven the place daily with two or
three bands of music.
There is a small race-ground on the plains. Land in
the neighbourhood appears very good, and cultivated
chiefly by Scotch, I believe. The grass fields are more
luxuriant than I expected, having that deep verdure so
natural to England. I have noticed that the pasture
land had a fresher appearance the lower I came down
the province, attributable, perhaps, to the greater damp-
ness of climate; the approximation to the sea has some
effect, for there have been far more misty, foggy days
together since I have been in Quebec, than I have ever
, seen in the Upper Provinces. The hedges about Quebec
are of the native thorn, and grow well; but they are
badly managed, not having ditches to protect them;
and it is evident the people know nothing of improving
by cutting and plashing. Dogs are much used for
drawing trucks, &c, and it is astonishing what weights
they will haul up the steep roads to the Upper Town.
As the assizes or courts of justice were open both
here and at Montreal, I had an opportunity of witness-
ing the manner of conducting them, which is much
the same as in England, with perhaps a little more
solemnity. As juries are generally a mixture of French
and Europeans, it is necessary for the evidence to be
interpreted in whichever language it be given in. The
courts were crowded with spectators, who behaved with
more becoming gravity and decorum than I have often
seen in courts in England.
AN EMIGRANT, 181
Canadians on Sunday flock to their churches, with
Prayer books in their hand, a decent deportment, and
generally clean and neat, if not respectably attired. As
Irish Catholics that emigrate, mostly go to the States,
would it not be good feeling to settle them liberally in
Lower Canada, where their own religious rites are per-
formed? They would make loyal subjects, and neu-
tralize the political influence of the French Canadians,
without exciting enmity, and probably introduce the
English language and customs more generally.
Attended an agricultural meeting two miles out of
Quebec, and was highly gratified by the excellent show
of cabbages (drumheads), savoys, &c., carrots, beets,
turnips, potatoes, celery, onions, &c. and all good. A
sample of wheat, pretty good, but shorter than it grows
in Upper Canada. Some tolerable samples of barley,
and a kind called mountain barley; it is maked, and
has some appearance of large rye, but more of common
barley with its skin taken off; also good English oats.
Fine apples, pears, &c. Ploughing, with cast iron
ploughs, two horses abreast, and held without exception
by old country people, Irish or Scotch, eight or ten
ploughs and the ploughing good. The Canadians gene-
rally use clumsy wheel ploughs, drawn by a yoke of
oxen, and a horse for a leader. Some pretty good
cattle shewn. The society consists altogether of settlers,
or nearly so, and practical farmers. I was sorry to see
so few people at it.
There has been another show and ploughing match
since, by another agricultural society, open to all com-
petitors. It was well attended, and the Canadians
joined in competition for the premiums. I am in-
182 IN QUIRIES OF
formed, the show of both cattle and vegetables would
have been a credit to most countries.
To return to the former society, I will copy an ex-
tract respecting it from the Star Newspaper:—
“This is the third exhibition of this small society, which
was formed about three years ago by a few of the most
eminent practical farmers in the vicinity of Quebec. The
constitution of this society requiring that the committee of
management should always be composed of practical farmers.
The original founders of the society have hitherto had the
management of affairs; and the manner in which it has been
conducted will be best appreciated by those who witnessed
the exhibition on Friday last. There was, to be sure, besides
the great improvement in ploughing, such samples of farm-
stock, vegetables, grain, &c. as are rarely to be met with in
this part of the world. Several public-spirited individuals,
who are not practical farmers, have from time to time en-
rolled themselves as members, which strengthened the funds,
and enabled the committee to extend the prizes this year
beyond the two preceding ones. As great things often arise
from small beginnings, may this society continue to prosper,
till it shall have raised a spirit of emulation amongst all
classes of farmers, so as to have the effect of raising the agri-
cultural character of Lower Canada to an equality in respect,
with that of any other part of the world: then will it have
fulfilled the wishes and intentions of its founders, and be an
honour to their names after they have bade adieu to this
world, and a lasting benefit to their offspring in after genera-
tions. I have often wondered that the Quebec Agricultural
Society, having the command of the public money for the
encouragement of agriculture, should never have thought of
giving any public aid to this society. It appears to me, that
a little money laid out in this way would turn to good
aCCOunt. “Signed,
A FARMER.”
Great and general complaints are made by shippers
and masters of vessels, respecting the port regulations
at Quebec, and the want of attention to their interests
generally. The want of lighthouses in different parts
AN EMIGRANT. 183
of the gulf, and river St. Lawrence in particular, is a
great disadvantage, and an annual loss of property and
lives.
Oct. 18.—Left Quebec for old England; just five
years from the day I left London for America. I
go by the way of Limeric, because it is a shorter water
passage, something less risk, and at but little more
expense, taking my journey across that kingdom into
consideration; as a passage to Ireland is less than to
England: I should have had to pay to London or
Liverpool, in the cabin, 12l., but I pay only 91, for
the same to Ireland, which is rather lower this season
than usual, on account of the scarcity and lowness of
freight. We fortunately cleared the Gulf with a north-
west wind, and of course clear weather, in five days,
which is rather quick; and arrived in the Shannon
in twenty-six days.
A PPE N DIX.
No. 1.-OBSERVATIONs.
UPPER CANADA, or that part between the great Lake, is in
length from the line that divides it at Lancaster from Lower
Canada on the north east, to Sandwich, south west, 500
miles, and its mean breadth, 140; containing 70,000 square
miles, or 45,000,000 of acres of land. It is divided into
ten districts, and in 1809 a law was enacted establishing a
school in each district, in which the classics and mathematics
are taught, the teacher to have a salary of 100l. ; there were
eight established in 1810, others since ; besides, in 1816
common schools in every township, whose teachers, I believe,
are each allowed a salary of fifty dollars from government,
and what they can get from those parents sending children
to them: these latter schools are very beneficial. A charter
and funds have been granted by the home government for
the erection of a college in York, for the education of the
youth of the province; there is thus every chance of pro-
curing as good an education here, and at much less expense,
than in England.
No country is naturally better adapted for water carriage
than Upper Canada; and should the canals now in contem-
plation be carried into effect, there would be no country of
the same extent equal to it in water communication in the
world. The following is a summary of particulars connected
with the—
WESTERN LAKES,
Name. Length. Width. Depth. Elevation. Above what place.
Ontario 180 miles 40 miles 500 ft. 218 ft. Three rivers
7
rie 270 80 200 566 Albany
Huron 250 100 900 570 Tide Water
Michigan 400 50 Unknown Same as Huron
Green Bay 105 50
Superior 480 109 900 1048 Tide Water.
The whole of these proposed canals would not, I believe,
be in anywise equal in length, though of greater magnitude,
to those in the state of New York only. The Welland Canal,
which is to unite Lake Ontario with Lake Erie, to avoid the
APPEN DIX. 185
Falls, is to be opened in the spring of 1830. Its course is
placed at a distance from the Lines, to avoid interruption in
case of a war, and enters Lake Erie high enough to have
three weeks advantage of Buffaloe, in opening the naviga-
tion in the spring—the latter place being blocked up so long
by the masses of floating ice getting jammed in the narrows
and shallows at the bottom of the Lake.
The Rideau Canal,” began two years ago by government,
is cutting, to avoid the rapids of the river St. Lawrence,
above Montreal, and is expected to be completed in two
years. These two canals will give to the river St. Lawrence
the greater part of the trade of upwards of 6000 miles of
coast, by the admission of schooners (and probably steam-
boats, ultimately), from the ocean through Lakes Ontario,
Erie, St. Clair, and Huron, with a trifling expense by locking
a short rapid, to Lake Superior and Michigan. A canal is
also completed on the States' side from Lake Erie, through
Ohio State to Ohio River, which with the canals on the
Canada side, will open a water communication between
Quebec and New Orleans, through the centre of America.
The Welland Canal will unlock the energies of the west,
—the granary of America! The greater part of the improve-
ments in the province have been made since the war (Canada
was hardly known in England before, and not now as it de-
serves). The influx of money at that period was a great,
but short-lived, stimulus to its prosperity, as by it, and the
derangement of trade and industry occasioned by the war,
idleness and profusion were for a time induced. It is from
the want of money (in conjunction with a liberal emigration
from home) being introduced in a proper, and of course a
profitable manner, that this province is slower in its progress
than any other new settled state.
Ohio was settled about the same time as Canada, yet that
State contains near five times the number of inhabitants, with
towns of ten to twenty thousand each. Is it better situated
for trade, or has it greater water communication ? Not any,
and will not be equal to Canada when the canals are com-
pleted. Is it superior in healthiness of climate On the
* Farm labourers, who may emigrate to Upper Canada this sum-
mer, and the mext, get immediate employment on the Rideau Canal,
as they are more used to digging and shovelling than the Americans.
Wages are generally from 45s. to 58s. 6d. per month, with board,
and work more moderate than on English Canals.
186 APPENDIX.
contrary, those who have been at both places allow Canada
has the advantage, and its soil fully equal, if not superior for
general produce ; and that its markets are much superior I
will shew, by an extract of the market prices in Ohio, com-
pared with those of Canada:—
Cents in Ohio. Cents in Canada.
Wheat - - 33% to 374 - - 50 to 95 per bushel
Indian Corn - 12; only - - 50 ditto
Potatoes - 16% - - - 25 to 30 ditto
Beef - - 2 to 3 - - 3 to 6 per lb.
Pork - - 24 only - - 3% to 6 ditto
Butter - - 4 to 5+ - - 10 to 11 ditto
Eggs - - 3 sº - - 6 to 9 per dozen
Wool - - 33% to 62} - - 50 (generally) per lb.
Tallow - - 6; * - - 8 to 12 ditto
Whiskey - 12% to 18% - - 25 to 50 ditto
I would recommend those who intend to marry, to bring
out wives with them, if they can get good ones. Women are
wanted; and though there is no very great scarcity, there are
more males than females, which is the reverse of England;
therefore it would be a pity to increase the number of the
latter, already unavoidably doomed to remain single; and
besides, generally speaking, a man will find a woman of his
own country more congenial to his habits and taste, as a
wife, than any other. This is not a bad country for single
females to come to as house servants, they will get from 20s.
to 30s, a month; and, if steady, industrious, and deserving,
may probably soon (if they choose) become the mistress of a
house of their own. Strong, handy boys will get the same
wages per month, and board.
The inducements held out by Canada to men of capital,
combined with skill, are great, and equal to any country.
Money can be invested in almost any kind of property to
advantage, if done with judgment: in purchasing land, par-
ticularly near towns and villages that must increase; in
building houses, mills, &c.; in establishing breweries on
a moderate scale; in distilleries, furnaces and forges, and
all manufactures.
Emigrants, who seek present conveniences, cash markets,
and a moderately good soil, with a country in some measure
cleared, and generally healthy, would do best to settle either
APPENDIX, 187
near Port Hope, York, Niagara, or round the head of Lake
Ontario; but others who prefer a more moderate climate, a
richer soil, cheaper land, with the prospect of as good a
market when the Welland Canal is in operation,” will pro-
bably go to the westward.
People of most common useful trades will find encourage-
ment both as masters and journeymen ; good blacksmiths
and tailors are in request, house-carpenters, plasterers,
bricklayers, and brick-makers, shoe-makers, boat-builders,
wheelwrights, coopers, &c., will find openings almost every
where, and with wages equal to any part of the States; f a
few good innkeepers, to keep respectable houses, I think,
would succeed; and maltsters and brewers also.
It is unnecessary to add more in proof of the great import-
ance of Upper Canada, and other American possessions, to
England; and the superiority of the former over the United
States, for British emigrants.
No. 2.--TAxes of UPPER CANADA.
The taxes are very trifling in Upper Canada, and, I be-
lieve, chiefly expended in the country in which they are
collected, for building bridges, court-houses, and gaols, and
defraying the expenses of the latter. A friend of mine, who
owns 200 acres, informs me his taxes never exceeded 7s. 6d.
in any one year.
These trifling rates are mostly levied on improvements. A
common log-house pays nothing; a hewn log-house a trifle,
and a frame or brick house, more in proportion. Two
assessors are chosen, by vote, in each township, at the yearly
meeting held for that purpose and the choice of other
town officers, and the making of town laws, respecting the
liberty of cattle, fences, roads, &c. The other officers are,
two collectors, a constable, churchwarden, town-clerk for
keeping accounts, &c., and several road masters, and pound
keeper. A farmer pays according to his number of cattle, &c.
which may be termed a property-tax.
* The Welland Canal has been opened while this work was at
press.
* An Irishman, a bricklayer, who came out this last spring, has
been engaged in building a house this summer, at 6s. 9d, a day, and
board, and a pint of whisky: most of the above trades in proportion.
188 APPENDIX.
No. 3.-RELIGIOUs INSTITUTIONs.
The Church of England is established, churches are build-
ing in various parts of the province, and clergymen appointed,
who each receive a salary of 200l. per annum, from a society
in England, at present, but land is set apart for the purpose
in every township, on its first survey, of which but little has
been brought into cultivation, and consequently unavailable.
Meeting-houses of various sects are found in every town ;
and, indeed, in almost every township in the Province, where
there is neither town nor village. They are generally situated
on the public road sides, built by subscription, and some of
their preachers supported by the same means; others are
termed local, and selected from the settlers in the neighbour-
hood. Some of the meeting-houses are large, and tolerably
well finished. Sometimes the public services of the church,
as well as other sects, are held in private houses in the back
settlements. The founders of the province being originally
French, there are many Catholic places of worship, particu-
larly in the large towns, and their ceremonies are conducted
in a manner more splendid than in the Protestant establish-
mentS.
No. 4.—LAws AND LIBERTIES.
The laws are assimilated to those of England in regard to
the liberty of the subject, with the exception of the game
laws. No tithes, or excisemen. Every person holding a
deed of 40s. a year freehold, has the right of voting at elec-
tions; and, as land is so easily attainable, any industrious
person may soon become a freeholder. The government
consists of a Lieutenant-governor and his Council, and the
Upper and Lower Houses of Assembly, corresponding with
King, Lords, and Commons of England; the Governor, of
course, is chosen by his Majesty and his Ministers.
No. 5.-ROADS AND BRIDGES.
This necessary work has, until lately, been less attended
to by the public authorities than any other department of
their duty; the requiring purchasers to form a road in the
front of their lands, left many places untouched, from the
lots not being occupied : others were badly formed, as I
APPENDIX. 189
have before noticed ; and in the spring and fall many were
almost impassable. The only piece of gravelled hard-made
road I noticed for some years, was the main street of York.
There is plenty of stone or gravel along the Lake shores,
and, indeed, in some places, it is to be procured on the road-
side. Stone or gravel, in some parts of the west, is scarce,
I allow ; yet, if it must be conveyed by water, or carted
some distance, it ought to be done for the main roads at
least, and when once done would take little trouble to keep
in good order; it is only in the spring and fall that any is
required, as the summer and winter roads would be used
nearly three quarters of the year. There is also a great
want of good bridges in almost every part of the province.
There are a few good substantial wooden frame ones built
of late; but there are numbers of logs, some of which are
nuisances—it is at the risk of the neck to ride over them,
and probably you cannot avoid them. A native will pass
over these bridges, through practice, without noticing them,
while an European just arrived would shudder.
A settler at Niagara has obtained a patent to run stages
from Ancaster to Sandwich, through Oxford and Westmin-
ster, for twenty-one years, on condition of running a sufficient
number for public accommodation, and to keep the road in
proper order; this may probably benefit the province, al-
though the Contractor's being a foreigner caused some dis-
satisfaction, and an observation that it was an American job,
to convey their own mail via Detroit, as being the nearest
rOute.
No. 6.—Government NoTICE FoR GRANTING LAND.
“For the information of persons arriving in Upper Canada,
as settlers, the following summary of the Tules which his
Majesty's Government has thought fit to lay down for the
future regulation of grants of land in the province, in con-
formity to the system which has been recently adopted with
respect to other colonies of his Majesty, has been prepared in
compliance with instructions from Earl Bathurst.”
1. A valuation will be forthwith made of the lands through-
out the colony, and average prices struck for each district.
2. All lands in the colony, not hitherto granted and ap-
propriated for public purposes, will be offered for sale at the
average prices thus fixed.
190 APPENDIX.
3. All persons proposing to purchase lands, must transmit
a written application to the government through the office of
the Surveyor General, or by an officer to be appointed by
him for that purpose in the several districts, on payment of a
fee of 2s. 6d.
4. All correspondence with the government respecting
grants of land, must take place through the same office.
5. The purchase money is to be paid by four quarterly, or
five annual instalments, as the party applying may desire,
but in the latter case, legal interest shall be payable annually,
from the time of making the agreement. A discount will be
allowed for ready money payment.
6. On payment of the money, a grant will be made in fee
simple to the purchaser at the expense of the Crown, with the
usual reservations of “mines and minerals, and white pine
timber.’’
7. The largest quantity of land which will be sold to any
individual is 10,000 acres, and when put up to sale, it will
be offered in such tracts, not less than 100 acres, as may be
directed. Persons wishing more extensive purchases, must
apply in writing through the Lieutenant Governor in Council
to his Majesty's principal Secretary of State for the Colonies,
with full explanation of their objects and means.
8. Lands may also be obtained without purchase, but
upon different conditions.
9. Persons desirous to acquire lands without purchasing,
will make their application to government, in writing,
through the Surveyor General’s office, in a prescribed form.
Copies of which will be furnished by the Surveyor-General
upon payment of 2s. 6d.
10. The largest grant that will be made without purchase,
is 1200 acres, the smallest 100 acres.
11. No grant will be made to any person without pur-
chase, unless the government is satisfied that the grantee
has both the power and the intention of expending in the
cultivation of the lands, capital equal to half the estimated
value, or in case the grant does not exceed 200 acres, that
he intends to reside upon and improve the same.
12. A quit rent of 5l. per cent. per annum, upon the es-
timated value, will be fixed on the land granted without
purchase.
13. The quit rent will be redeemable within the first
APPENDIX. 191
twenty-five years next following the grant, on payment of a
sum equal to twenty times the annual amount of it.
14. Until the expiration of the first seven years next suc-
ceeding each grant without purchase, no quit rent will be-
come due upon the lands comprised in it.
15. Every grantee without purchase, must, at the expira-
tion of the before-mentioned term of seven years, prove to
the satisfaction of the Lieutenant Governor in Council, that
he has expended in the cultivation and improvement of his
land, a capital equal to half its value, as that value was
estimated at the time of his grant, or in case the grant shall
not exceed 200 acres, that he has during that time resided
on and improved his land. On failure of such proof, his
claim to the land shall be forfeited, and the same may be
granted to another applicant. It is to be understood, how-
ever, that if at any time within that period the condition of
expenditure and cultivation shall have been complied with,
the patent may immediately issue.
16. No additional grant of land will be made to any per-
son who has not proved, as last mentioned, the necessary
expenditure of capital on the lands already granted to him.
17. Persons receiving a grant of land without purchase,
will become liable to pay a quit rent upon the land comprised
in such second grant immediately upon the date of it.
18. Persons desirous to receive grants of land without pur-
chase, on terms different from those above stated, must lay
before the Lieutenant Governor in Council a full explana-
tion, in writing, of the circumstauces which they may con-
ceive to exempt them from the fair operations of these general
rules.
19. United English loyalists, and other persons entitled to
gratuitous grants by the general regulations of his Majesty’s
government, are not to be affected by these rules.
The above rules to take effect from the first of January,
1826.
By order of his Excellency, the Lieutenant-Governor,
JOHN SMALL, Clerk, Ex-Com.
192 * APPENDIX,
No. 7.-PAssAGE BY New York to CANADA.
f. s. d.
Passage from Liverpool in steerage sº 4 0 ()
Provisions for nine weeks - - *º- 3 O 9
Passage to Albany in steam-boat, two trunks, and
provisions - º - º O 6 9
From Albany, in canal-boat, to Buffaloe, provisions,
&c. - - -> - - 2 0 6
Passage by schooner to any part of the Canada
shore, or Lakes Erie or Ontario, 3 dollars, pro-
visions l dollar - &=º - tº- 0 18 ()
Waiting for conveyances and incidental expenses,
4 dollars - ses - g- O 18 0
11 4 0
No. 8.-PASSAGE BY QUEBEC to UPPER CANADA.
f'. s. d.
Passage from Hull to Quebec, in the steerage - 4 0 0
Eight weeks’ provisions (only six in coming) - 3 4 0
From Quebec to Montreal in steam-boat, two dol-
lars; to Prescott in Durham boats, two dollars;
to Queenston, in steam-boat, four dollars; and
provisions for three weeks, while coming up, four
dollars - - * * - 2 14 ()
9 18 ()
No. 9.—ESTIMATE of ExPENSES AND QUANTITY of PRov1-
SIONS For A Voy AGE.
The following is a list of the provisions, &c. which I
shipped for my passage, and which I calculated at eight
week’s consumption. In some vessels, where the number of
passengers is great, I believe the quantity is restricted.
s, d.
Biscuit 28lbs. (I recommend the best). If half
were bread, sliced and baked dry, or toasted,
and packed close in a barrel, an agreeable
variety - º - sº - () 7 ()
APPENDIX.
193
Sufficient: I had some left. I had also two
large sweet seed cakes, but they were not
used, as sweet things cannot be eaten in
sea sickness
A case of preserved beef, 91bs. - -
Had been a voyage, or would have cost more.
Two quart bottles of preserved soup - -
10lbs. of beef at 6d. and 10lbs. of pork at 9d.
Useful, because fresh ; but unnecessary if
fowls are taken, which are better. Meat
nearly half left, on account of continued
sickness, but enough if well. A few red
herrings should be added.
11b. of tea, and #lb. of coffee - - -
For want of milk, both disagreeable and little
used. I had preserved a glass bottle of
milk, but broke it. Cream or milk may
be preserved by boiling, and adding two
pounds of loaf sugar to a quart, and bottled.
7lbs. sugar [plenty] º - -
7lbs. flour [hardly enough—useful for fruit pud-
dings] *se * - -
5lbs. rice [very palatable in pudding—I would
recommend five or six pounds] - -
5lbs. butter 5s., 31bs. cheese 2s. 3d. - -
Mustard, pepper, salt, vinegar, ginger, nutmegs,
&c. [necessary articles] -
Two gallons of porter, in bottles, or cider
Very palatable and strengthening when sea
sickness is over, with a little water, nut-
meg, and ginger; but one bottle of port-
wine, with half or one-third of the porter, I
would recommend in preference. The wine
and beef-tea are excellent in sea sickness.
Bottle of brandy 5s., ditto rum 2s. 6d., but both
unnecessary—not palatable in sickness.
Half a bushel of apples, and a few oranges -
Very useful. I had no preserved damsons,
or any fruit, but much wanted them when
sea sick.
.2 bushels of potatoes, onions, carrots, &c., with
a net to boil the potatoes in * -
£ s
O 3
O 3
0 12
O 8
O 3
0 1
0 2
0 7
0 I
0 4
0 2
O 5
O
º
;.66
O
3 0
INFORMATION
PU BLISHED BY
HIS MAJESTY'S COMMISSIONERS
EMIGRATION,
RESPECTING T HIE
BRITISH COLONIES IN NORTH AMERICA.
Colonial Qſſice, February 9, 1832.
THE object of the present notice is to affold such informa-
tion as is likely to be useful to persons who desire either to
emigrate, or to assist others to emigrate, to the British pos-
sessions in North America.
In the first place it seems desirable to define the nature of
the assistance to be expected from government by persons
proceeding to these colonies. No pecuniary aid will be
allowed by government to emigrants to the North American
colonies; nor after their airival will they receive grants of
land, or gifts of tools, or a supply of provisions. Hopes of
all these things have been sometimes held out to emigrants
by speculators in this country, desirous of making a profit
by their conveyance to North America, and willing for that
purpose to delude them with unfounded expectations, re-
gardless of their subsequent disappointment. But the wish
of government is to furnish those who emigrate with a real
knowledge of the circumstances they will find in the countries
to which they are going.
No assistance of the extraordinary extent above described
is allowed, because in colonies where those who desire to
work cannot fail to do well for themselves, none such is
needed. Land, indeed, used formerly to be granted gra-
tuitously; but when it was taken by poor people, they
found that they had not the means of living during the in-
terval necessary to raise their crops, and further that they
knew not enough of the manner of farming in the colonies to
APPENDIX, 195
make any progress. After all, therefore, they were obliged
to work for wages, until they could make a few savings, and
could learn a little of the way of farming in Canada. But
now, land is not disposed of except by sale. The produce
of the sales, although the price is very moderate, is likely
to become a considerable fund, which can be turned to the
benefit of the colonies, and therefore of the emigrants; while
yet no hardship is inflicted on the poor emigrant, who will
work for wages just as he did before, and may after a while
acquire land, if land be his object, by the savings which the
high wages in these colonies enable him speedily to make.
These are the reasons why government does not think it
necessary to give away land in a country, where, by the
lowness of its price, the plentifulness of work, and the high
rates of wages, an industrious man can earn enough in a few
seasons to become a freeholder by means of his own acqui-
Slt1OnS.
The land which is for sale will be open to public com-
petition, and of course, therefore, its price must depend upon
the offers that may be made ; but it will generally not be
sold for less than from 4s. to 5s. per acre; and in situations
where roads have been made, or the ground has been partially
cleared, the common prices lately have been 7s.6d., 10s., and
15s. Further particulars will be best learned upon the spot,
where every endeavour will be made to meet the different
circumstances and views of different purchasers.
Although Government will not make any gifts a the
public expense to emigrants to North America, agents will
be maintained at the principal colonial ports, whose duty it
will be, without fee or reward from private individuals, to
protect emigrants against imposition upon their first landing,
to acquaint them with the demand for labour in different dis-
tricts, to point out the most advantageous routes, and to fur-
nish them generally with all useful advice upon the objects
which they have had in view in emigrating. And when a
private engagement cannot be immediately obtained, employ-
ment will be afforded on some of the public works in progress
in the Colonies. Persons newly arrived should not omit to
consult the Government Agent for Emigrants, and as much
as possible should avoid detention in the ports, where they
are exposed to all kinds of impositions and of pretexts for
keeping them at taverns till any money they may possess
has been expended.—For the same purpose of guarding
O
196 APPENDIX.
against the frauds practised on new comers, and of prevent-
ing an improvident expenditure at the first moment of
arrival, it seems very desirable that individuals who may
wish to furnish emigrants with money for their use in the
colony, should have the means of making the money pay-
able there, instead of giving it into the hands of the emi-
grants in this country. The Commissioners for Emigration
are engaged in effecting general arrangements for this
purpose, and due notice will be given to the public when
they shall be completed.* Agents for emigration have been
appointed at St. John's, St. Andrew's, and Miramichi in
New Brunswick; and at Quebec and York in Canada. The
Agent at Quebec is A. C. Buchanan, Esq.; at St. John’s,
A. Wedderburn, Esq.; at St. Andrew’s, G. N. Smith,
Esq.; at Miramichi, J. Cunard, Esq.; the name of the
Agent at York has not yet been reported to the Colonial
Department. On this whole subject of the manner of pro-
ceeding upon landing, it may be observed, in conclusion,
that no effort will be spared to exempt emigrants from
any necessity for delay in the place of disembarkation, and
from uncertainty as to the opportunities of at once turning
their labour to account.
After this explanation of the extent of the aid to be ex-
pected from Government, the following statements are sub-
joined of the ordinary charges for passage to the North Ame-
rican colonies, as well as of the usual rates of wages and
usual prices in them, in order that every individual may have
the means of judging for himself of the inducements to emi-
grate to these parts of the British dominions.
PASSAG Ce
Passages to Quebec or New Brunswick may either be
engaged inclusive of provisions, or exclusive of provisions,
in which case the ship owner finds nothing but water, fuel,
and bed-places, without bedding. Children under 14 years
of age are charged one half, and under 7 years of age one
third of the full price ; and for children under twelve months
of age no charge is made. Upon these conditions the price
of passage from London, or from places on the east coast of
* Since this paper was first printed, the arrangements alluded to
have been completed, and will be found described in the postscript.
APPENDIX. 197
Great Britain, has generally been 6l. with provisions, or
3l, without. From Liverpool, Greenock, and the principal
ports of Ireland, as the chances of delay are fewer, the
charge is somewhat lower; this year it will probably be
from 21. to 21. 10s. without provisions, or from 4!. to 5l.
including provisions. It is possible that in March and April
passages may be obtained from Dublin for 35s., or even
30s, ; but the prices always grow higher as the season ad-
vances. In ships sailing from Scotland or Ireland, it has
mostly been the custom for passengers to find their own
provisions; but this practice has not been so general in
London, and some ship owners, sensible of the dangerous
mistakes which may be made in this matter through igno-
rance, are very averse to receive passengers who will not
agree to be victualled by the ship. Those who do resolve
to supply their own provisions, should at least be careful not
to lay in an insufficient stock; 50 days is the shortest period
for which it is safe to provide, and from London the passage
is sometimes prolonged to 75 days.
The best months for leaving England are certainly March
and April; the later emigrants do not find employment so
abundant, and have less time in the colony before the com-
mencement of winter. The names of vessels proceeding to
the North American Colonies, and the addresses of their
brokers, may be learnt at all ports of the United Kingdom,
including the port of London, by personal application at the
Custom House of each polt. The officers of Customs, how-
ever, will not be able to answer written inquiries on the sub-
ject; and persons residing inland who may require informa-
tion of this nature, must depute the inquiry to some one at
the port where they wish to embark. Many ships are adver-
tised in the public newspapers.
Various frauds are attempted upon emigrants, which can
only be effectually defeated by the good sense of the parties
against whom they are contrived. Sometimes Agents take
payment from the emigrant for his passage, and then recom-
mend him to some tavern, where he is detained from day to
day, under false pretences for delay, until, before the depar-
ture of the ship, the whole of his money is extracted from
him. This, of course, cannot happen with the Agents con-
nected with respectable houses; but the best security is to
name in the bargain for passage a particular day, after which,
whether or not the ship sails, the passenger is to be received
198 APPENDIX.
on board and victualled by the owners. In this manner the
emigrant cannot be intentionally brought to the place of
embarkation too soon, and be compelled to spend his money
at public houses, by false accounts of the time of sailing ;
for from the very day of his arrival at the port, being the day
previously agreed upon, the ship becomes his home.
The conveyance of passengers to the British possessions
in North America is regulated by an Act of Parliament
(9 Geo. IV. c. 21), of which the following are the princi-
º
pal provisions: ships are not allowed to carry passengers to
these colonies unless they be of the height of five feet and a
half between decks, and they must not carry more than three
passengers for every four tons of the registered burthen ;
there must be on board at least 50 gallons of pure water,
and 50lbs. of bread, biscuit, oatmeal, or bread stuff, for each
passenger. When the ship carries the full number of pas-
sengers allowed by law, no part of the cargo, and no stores
or provisions, may be carried between decks; but if there be
less than the complete number of passengers, goods may be
stowed between decks in a proportion not exceeding three
cubical feet for each passenger wanting of the highest num-
ber. Masters of vessels who land passengers, unless with ,
their own consent, at a place different from that originally
agreed upon, are subject to a penalty of 20l., recoverable by
summary process before two Justices of the peace in any of
the North American colonies.
The enforcement of this law rests chiefly with the officers
of His Majesty's Customs ; and persons having complaints
to make of its infraction, should address themselves to the
nearest Custom House.
Besides the sea voyage from England, persons proceeding
to Canada should be provided with the means of paying for
the journey which they may have to make after their arrival
at Quebec. The cost of this journey must, of course, depend
upon the situation of the place where the individual may find
employment, or where he may have previously formed a wish
to setttle; but to all it will probably be useful to possess
the following report of the prices of conveyance, during the
last season, on the route from Quebec to York, the capital
of Upper Canada. From Quebec to Montreal (180 miles),
by steam-boat, the charge for an adult was 6s. 6d. ; from
Montreal to Prescot (120 miles), by boats or barges, 7s. ;
and from Prescot to York (250 miles), by steam-boat, 7s.
APPENDIX. 199
The journey performed in this manner, usually occupies ten
or twelve days; adding, therefore, 11s. for provisions, the
total cost from Quebec to York (a distance of 550 miles)
may be stated, according to the charges of last year, at
11. 11s. 6d. Persons who are possessed of sufficient means
prefer to travel by land that part of the route where the river
St. Lawrence is not navigable by steam-boats, and the jour-
ney is then usually performed in six days, at a cost of 6l.
It must be observed that the prices of conveyance are neces-
sarily fluctuating, and that the foregoing account is only
presented as sufficiently accurate for purposes of information
in this country; leaving to the Government Agent at Quebec
to supply emigrants with more exact particulars, according
to the circumstances of the time at which they may arrive.
RATEs of WAGES AND MARKET PRICEs.
The Colonies in North America to which Emigrants can
with advantage proceed, are Lower Canada, Upper Canada,
and new Brunswick. From the reports received from the
other British Colonies in North America, namely, Prince
Edward’s Island, Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, and Cape
Breton, it appears they do not contain the means either of
affording employment at wages to a considerable number of
Emigrants, or of settling them upon land.
LOWER CANADA.
From Low ER CANADA the Commissioners for Emigration
have not received the official reports which were required
from the North American colonies for the purpose of com-
piling the present statement. They believe, however, that
the following account of prices of grain and of wages may be
relied upon for its general correctness:—
Wheat, per bushel, 4s, 6d, ; rye, 3s. ; maize, 2s. 6d. ;
oats, 1s. 3d. ; wages of labourers, 2s. 6d. per day; ship-
builders, carpenters, joiners, coopers, masons, and tailors, 5s.
per day.
UPPER
THE following Table exhibits the lowest and the highest
the year 1831, in each of the principal

Eastern District. Johnstown ditto. l Bathurst ditto.
Lowest Highest
Price in *; $º' Lowest. Highest. Lowest.|Highest.
1831. itto.
-: £. s. d. liff. s. d. If?. s. d.lf. s. d.lf. s. d.lf. s. d.
Wheat . . per bushel 10 5 0 |0 5 6 10 5 3 0 6 9 |0 5 0 |0 5 0
Maize . . ditto 0 2 6 0 3 0 0 1 9 |0 2 3 |0 2 6 |0 3 0
Oats . . . ditto 0 1 3 || 0 || 8 0 1 3 |0 | 6 ||0 1 6 10 2 0
Barley . . ditto 0 2 6 0 2 6 H0 1 9 |0 4 0 |0 3 0 |0 3 6
0 1 3 0 1 6
Potatoes . per cwt. *} *} 0 1 3 0 1 9 0 || 3 || 0 || 9
Butter (fresh) per lb. 0 0 73 |0 0 9 10 0 6 |0 0 9 10 0 6 |0 0 8
Ditto (salt) ditto 0 0 73 |0 0 73 0 0 73|0 0 10 10 0 7 |0 0 73
Cheese . . ditto 0 0 6 0 0 6 0 0 4 |0 0 6 0 0 6 |0 0 6
Eggs. . . per dozen 10 0 5 |0 0 9 |0 0 6 |0 0 10 10 0 4 |0 0 8
Ducks . . per pair 0 1 8 || 0 || 8 |0 1 6 10 2 0 ||0 2 6 |0 3 0
Fowls . . ditto 0 1 4 || 0 || 6 |0 1 0 |0 l 3 0 1 8 0 2 3
Geese . . . . . 0 4 0 0. 5 0 0 2 4 |0 2 6 () 4 0 |0 4 0
Turkeys. . . . .0 5 0 || 0 6 0 |0 3 6 |0 4 0 |0 4 0 |0 4 0
Hay . . . per tom 1 15 0 2 5 0 1 10 0 2 10 0 |2 0 0 |2 10 0
Straw . . per load 0 16 S 0 16 S 0 5 0 |0 10 0 || 0 7 6 |0 7 6
Bread . . per 41b. loaf 10 0 9 |0 0 10 10 0 6 |0 0 8 10 0 10 |0 0 10
MEAT, per lb.
Beef . . . . . 0 0 24 |0 0 33 |0 0 23:10 0 4 |0 0 4 |0 0 4
Mutton . . . . . 0 0 3 0 0 4 0 0 23:10 0 4 10 0 4 |0 0 4
Pork . . . . . . 0 0 4 |0 0 5 0 0 4 |0 0 6 |0 0 3 |0 0 3
Veal . . . . . . .0 0 3 0 0 3 0 0 23:10 0 3 |0 0 4 |0 0 4
FLOUR, per 100 lbs.
Fine . . . . . . . 10 15 0 0 17 6 0 15 0 |0 17 6 0 12 6 |0 16 0
Seconds . . . . . . i0 12 6 0 12 6 0 12 6 |0 15 0 || 0 1 0 6 |0 12 6
CANADA.
hich the several articles therein-named bore, during
districts of UPPER CANADA :—
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202 APPENDIx.
From a comparison of all the documents before the Com-
missioners for Emigration, it appears that the yearly wages of
labourers in Upper Canada, hired by the year, are from 27 l.
to 30l. ; that their monthly wages, in different situations and
at different seasons, range from ll. 10s. to 3!. 10s. per
month ; and that daily wages range from 2s. to 3s. 9d. In
all these rates of wages, board and lodging are found by the
employer. Without board, daily wages vary from 3s.6d. out
of harvest to 5s. during harvest; 6s. 8d., besides provisions,
is sometimes given to harvest men. The wages of mechanics
may be stated universally at from 5s. to 7s.6d. per day.
-*--
NEW BRUNSWICK.
The following is a list of prices compiled from documents
sent in from various parts of New Brunswick —
f s. d. f s. d.
Wheat............ per bushel 0 5 0 to 0 10 O*
Maise ............ * 0 4 6 ... O 5 0
Oats .. -* 0 1 6 ... O 2 6
Barley ............ *mºs 0 4 0 ... O 5 0
Potatoes ......... per cwt. 0 1 3 ... 0 3 6
Butter (fresh)... per lb. 0 0 9 ... 0 1 0
Ditto (salt)...... * 0 0 8 0 0 10
Cheese............ * () () 4 0 0 7
Eggs ............ per dozen 0 0 7% () I ()
Ducks ............ per pair 0 2 0 ... 0 3 6
Fowls ............ tº-º-º-º: 0 1 6 ... O 2 6
Geese ............ * 0 3 O ... O 5 0
Turkeys ......... *- 0 7 6 ... 0 10 0
Hay............... per ton l 10 0 ... 2 10 0
Straw ............ -º- 1 0 0 ... l 5 ()
Bread ........ .... per 4lb. loaf 0 0 10 O 1 0
Beef............... per stone 0 3 3 0 4 0
Mutton ......... *memº 0 2 4 0 4 0
Pork ............ *-*. 0 2 0} 0 4 0
Veal............... sº 0 2 4 0 4 8
Flour ............ per 100 lbs. 0 16 0 0 17 6
Salt Pork......... per barrel 4 15 0 5 5 0
i
r
S
* Although some wheat sold for 10s, in 1831, it very rarely rises
higher than 7s.6d,
APPENDIX.
2
0
3
36 s. d. 36. s. d
Ditto Beef ...... per barrel 3 0 0 to 3 10 0
Malt............... per bushel 0 6 2 0 6 4
Rye flour ......... per barrel 1 2 6 smºs
Indian ditto ...... *-*º I 2 6
Oatmeal ......... per cwt. 0 16 0 0 18 0
Salt Cod ......... per 112 lbs. 0 10 0 0 12 0
Ditto Mackarel . per barrel 0 17 0 I 0 0
Ditto Alewives . * 0 10 0 0 12 0
Coals are sold at 30s. per chaldron. House rent at St.
John's is from 5l. to 6l. per annum for families occupying
one room ; and for families occupying two rooms, from 6l.
to 101. Common labourers receive from 3s. to 4s. a day,
finding their own subsistence; but, when employed at the
ports in loading vessels, their subsistence is found for them.
Mechanics receive from 5s. to 7s.6d. per day, and superior
workmen from 7 s. 6d. to 10s.
Upon the foregoing statements it must be observed, that
emigrants, especially such of them as are agricultural la-
bourers, should not expect the highest wages named until
they have become accustomed to the work of the colony.
The mechanics most in demand are those connected with the
business of house-building.—Shoemakers, and tailors, and
ship-builders, also find abundant employment.
By Order of the Commissioners for Emigration,
T. FREDERICK ELLIOT.
P O S T S C R. I. P.T.
5th March,--Since the preceding pages were printed, the
following letter has been received from Messrs. Smith,
Payne, and Smiths.
LoMBARD STREET,
23rd February, 1832.
SIR,-We have the honour to acknowledge the receipt of
your letter, and in reply, we beg leave to acquaint you, for
the information of the Commissioners for Emigration, that
we have agreed to receive monies in London, on account of
the Montreal Bank, and that any emigrant who may think
it more safe or advantageous to transfer his capital to the
204 APPENDIX.
Canadas, through the medium of the Montreal Bank, than
to carry it with him in specie, will have the opportunity of
doing so.
On receiving a sum of money, on account of the Montreal
Bank, we shall give a receipt in the following form :—
Received 18 of the
Montreal Bank, by A. B.
Pounds
S. P. and S.
In cases where money is remitted to us, by country
bankers, on account of emigrants, receipts will be sent to
the country banker making the remittance. The country
banker's charges on this transaction will, of course, fall
upon the emigrant.
We shall decline in all cases to take any money unless
accompanied by the signature of the party, who is to receive
such money in Canada, excepting in cases where a remit-
tance is wished to be made for the use of a person resident
in Canada who can be readily identified by other means.
The emigrant, on his arrival, will present the receipt to the
Montreal Bank, and the bank will, we presume, draw upon
us for the amount, and pay the emigrant the proceeds of
such bill at the exchange of the day, in the manner con-
sistent with its usual rules of business.
We wish it to be distinctly understood, that we do not
engage to protect the emigrant from any risk whatever, ex-
cept the risk which might attach to the carrying the money
with him. We simply undertake to honour the drafts of the
Montreal Bank, from time to time, for such sums as may be
paid into our hands on account of that bank. •
We are, Sir,
Your most obedient Servants,
(Signed) SMITH, PAYNE, & SMITHs.
T. F. Elliot, Esq.
&c. &c. &c.
P. S.—We have omitted to mention that we are directed
not to receive less than Twenty Pounds on account of any
one individual.
APPENDIX. 205
The mode of proceeding described in this Letter is likely
to be generally made use of, in order to avoid the risk of
carrying money abroad in specie. For this purpose, persons
who are emigrating to Canada will only need to deposit here
the sum they desire to receive for their own use in the Colony,
and to draw the amount after their arrival. But for persons
residing in this country, who wish to remit money to Canada
for the use of others assisted by them to emigrate, some
further arrangement will be requisite. One course which
may be followed by such persons will be, merely to give the
emigrant the means of depositing in England money payable
in Canada, and in this manner to guard against the chances
of the money's being lost, or improvidently expended, on the
voyage. Should it be further desired to establish a control
over the money, not merely until the voyage shall be com-
pleted but even after the emigrant’s disembarkation, it will
be necessary that the persons providing funds with that view
shall pay them into the house of Messrs. Smith, Payne, and
Smiths, to the account of the Governor of Lower Canada with
the Montreal Bank. The Governor will be directed to con-
fide the application of such funds to an officer appointed for
the purpose, who will be required to give sufficient security,
and will be bound to expend the money for the benefit of
the emigrants in the course of three months after their arrival.
Within that period he must be allowed the exercise of his
own discretion as to the occasions and proportions of the
payments he may make. Persons desirous of availing them-
selves of this method of procuring the superintendence of
Government for the expenditure of sums destined to the use
of emigrants, must fill up and sign two lists containing
the names and descriptions of all the emigrants to receive
portions of the deposit, together with the signature or mark
of each emigrant thereto affixed, and a statement of the
amount appropriated to every individual. Each emigrant
must also be furnished with a separate certificate, stating
his name and number on the list, and the amount to which
he is entitled. Copies are subjoined of the forms in which
these lists and certificates should be drawn up. The lists
will be forwarded by the Colonial department; and for that
purpose they should be sent there, at least three weeks
before the departure of the emigrants, under a cover marked
with the word “Emigration,” and addressed to “The Under
Secretary of State, Colonial Department, London.” At the
206
APPENDIX.
same time should be enclosed the acknowledgment of Messrs.
Smith, Payne, and Smiths, for the payment to the account
of the governor, without which acknowledgment no list will
be sent forward. Neither can any list be forwarded, or the
management of a deposit in the present manner be under-
taken, unless the whole sum deposited by the individual
signing the list amount at the least to 50l.
The certificates
must be delivered to the several parties to whom they relate;
but they should be sealed up, and addressed to “The Agent
for Emigrants at Quebec,” or “at Montreal.”
FORM OF LIST.

Name of
the
Emigrant.
Age.
Trade or
Calling.
Amount to
be given to
the Emi-
grant.
General
Remarks.
Signature
or mark
of the
Emigrant.
N. B.-At the head of the list should be stated the name
of the vessel in which the several parties are to embark, and
the date at which she is expected to sail.
APPENDIX. 207
FORM OF CERTIFICATE.
I, A. B., do hereby certify that C. D., the bearer hereof,
is the person described, as under, on the list forwarded by
me to the Colonial office; and that the amount therein
stated, namely pounds, is the true amount which I
desire to be paid to the said C. D.
(Signature of the person making the
deposit on account of the emigrant.)

Signature
Trade I Amount General or mark
T
No. |Name. Age. OT to be Remarks. of the
* given. Emigrant.
LONDON :
Manning and Co., Printers,
London-House-Yard, St. Paul's.