A PORTION
OF THE
JOURNAL
KEPT BY
TRAIKES ESO
B 1,297,507
VOL HIL
DA
536
R2
A 2
1.3

GEOGRAPH
1837
ARTES
LIBRARY
SCIENTIA
VERITAS
OF THE
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN!
PLURIBUS
UKUM
TUEBOR
SI-QUERIS-PENINSULAM-AMŒNAM –
CIRCUMSPICE
A
PORTION OF THE JOURNAL
KEPT BY
THOMAS RAIKES, ESQ.
VOL. III.
DA
53
R2
A 2
+
LONDON:
Printed by SPOTTISWOODE & Co.
New-street Square,
Um
1

Pee Talleyson who by D'bosay

MU
A
PORTION OF THE JOURNAL
KEPT BY
THOMAS RAIKES, ESQ.
FROM 1831 TO 1847:
COMPRISING
REMINISCENCES OF
SOCIAL AND POLITICAL LIFE IN LONDON AND PARIS
DURING THAT PERIOD.
IN FOUR VOLUMES.
VOL. III,
LONDON:
LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, LONGMANS, & ROBERTS.
1857.
*
JOURNAL
&c.
1836.
PARIS, Friday, 1st July, 1836.-The other day an
officer with mustachios, who had just alighted from
the diligence, was walking through a public street
in Brussels, following the commissionaire who had
taken charge of his baggage to the inn, when he
passed by a broker's shop where an old picture was
exposed to view on a chair. It was the object of
remark to several bystanders, amongst whom was a
painter of some celebrity in the city. "It is a bad
copy," said the painter; "It is a mere daub," said
another connoisseur; and every one found some
additional defect in the painting, which seemed to
be despised by all. The officer gave a cursory
glance at the picture, walked into the shop, and
demanded the price. "Not less than ten francs,"
said the broker. "Here they are."
The picture
was bought, placed with the other baggage on the
truck of the commissionaire, and the traveller moved
on. The amateurs who had found such fault with
the performance, surprised at seeing a traveller
VOL. III.
B
C43090
2
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
burden himself with an object of such large dimen-
sions and of so little value, inquired of him, ironi-
cally, how much he expected to gain by his bargain.
"A mere trifle, gentlemen," replied the officer;
perhaps 15,000 francs."
"How do you mean?”
CC
66
Yes, I mean 15,000 francs, my connoisseurs, for
this picture which you think so lightly of is a real
Jordaens, and one of his very finest performances.”
The painter and his companions, struck by the con-
fidence of his manner, retired with evident signs of
vexation at having missed such an opportunity.
The traveller was Capt. G-, of the Cuirassiers,
not only a distinguished officer, but an excellent
judge of paintings. On the following day the merit
of the picture was formally acknowledged by the
best amateurs of the capital as a chef d'œuvre of
Jordaens. It contains eight figures, grouped as it
were by magic; and the heads are so beautiful that
they defy all competition. 10,000 francs have already
been offered to Capt. G, and refused.
I received the other day a letter from D'Orsay,
in which he gives the following description of
London society: "Vous nous avez décidement
abandonné, et pour peu que vous continuiez de la
sorte, vous retrouverez la Vieille Angleterre cruelle-
ment métamorphosée. L'ancienne roche s'éteint à
vue d'œil; il y a une invasion de gringollets affublés
de titres, et de fortunes qu'ils ne savent pas dépenser,
et qui occupent maintenant les fenêtres des clubs, et
les corridors des spectacles. L'on voit encore par çà
et par là, quelques fantômes de vicille renommée qui
promènent leurs infirmités.
1836.]
3
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
"Le viel
*
*
*
se dépêche lentement de faire qua-
torze lieues dans quinze jours.
femme qu'il n'a jamais aimé.
pleure une
grogne parce-
qu'il a la goutte et des souliers trop serrés.
s'imagine qu'il va se divorcer et pense après qu'il
sera un morceau friand.
*
*
*
*
*
"Ce qui nous manque sont des gens gais,
spirituels, bien instruits, et à la hauteur de la litéra-
ture du jour, et de chaque pays; des gens, enfin, qui
jugent pour eux-mêmes, sans attendre que la tête de
colonne des moutons de Panurge ait prisé la direction
qu'ils doivent aveuglement suivre. N'est-il pas dé-
solant de vivre dans un pays, où si par hazard vous
disiez une grosse bétise, vous trouveriez des gens
comme et autres, prêts à jurer que c'est ex-
trêmement spirituel? Enfin, cher Raikes, je vous
regrette, car j'ai toujours su vous rendre justice," &c.
An old officer of rank died lately in the Canton
d'Harcourt dep. du Calvados, bequeathing a large
fortune to his nephew, on condition that he married
within twelve months, but not a young lady to whom
he was known by the testator to be attached. The
year was drawing near to a close, when the nephew
took the expedient of marrying an old woman of
eighty-five, with whom he does not live, but whose
poverty he has converted into comparative afflu-
ence. The two lovers are waiting anxiously for the
death of the good old woman.
Among the light trifles at the Théâtre Palais
Royal, is a new piece called " Voltaire en Vacances,"
B 2
4
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
in which Madlle. Dejazet enacts the part of the young
poet. It is written with taste and talent, and refers
to the period when he was in love with Ninon; his
wit, though in its infancy, was beginning to obtain
applause, and one of his first efforts appears in a
petition which he wrote for a deserving old soldier
to the king, who rewarded it by a pension.
"Sire, vous possédez d'assez bons revenus,
Car vous avez dit-on cent millions de rente,
Exempts d'impôts et de patente,
Ce qui fait à peu près par jour cent mille écus,
Ou bien quatre mille par heure.
Moi, qui vous ai servi vingt ans,
Ne pourrois-je obtenir, Sire, avant que je meure,
Un quart d'heure de votre temps !"
Messrs. Villeneuve and Livry are named as the
authors of the piece.
The English papers bring the debates in the
House of Lords on Monday: the Irish Municipal
Reform Bill, as sent back by the House of Com-
mons, has been again rejected by a majority of
ninety-seven.
The Académie de Médecine has been called upon
to decide the important question of Phrenology.
The discussion occupied four sittings. Dr. Broussais,
who is at the head of the phrenological school, main-
tained the principles which he had laid down in his
lectures. M. Gueneau de Massy had to sum up the
arguments on both sides, and in conclusion gave an
opinion that the system ought not at present to be
adopted. The Academy concurred.
The evening was very sultry and hot. Lady
Granville received a few people in the garden of the
1836.]
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Embassy, which was lighted up for the occasion,
and furnished with chairs and sofa: the effect was
very agreeable. Many of the English are gone, and
the only new arrivals are the Miss Berry's and
Frederick Byng, on his annual mission from the
Foreign Office.
Saturday, 2nd. - The Porte seems to be acting
under the influence of M. Boutenieff, the Russian
Ambassador, and determined to resist the demands.
of Lord Ponsonby for satisfaction in the affair of
Churchill.* Russian antipathy to the Whig Minis-
try, as expressed in Pozzo's declaration to me in
1833, is here fully developed.
Messrs. Peyre and Bremont, of Havre, have lately
made some chemical experiments of distilling fresh
water from that of the sea, which have met with
complete success.
The French papers mention the following horrid
act: "La commune de Masigny les Compiègne vient
d'être le théâtre d'un double suicide. Après avoir
dissipé une assez belle fortune, un artiste, M. L
s'étoit rétiré au domaine de la Folie avec une jeune
femme, la dâme A G épouse et mère. Le
24 Juin ils s'enfermèrent dans un pavillon, séparé
de l'habitation; puis s'étant enduits d'essence de
thérébenthine, ils se placèrent sur des fagots amon-
* Mr. Churchill, an English merchant, had received the bastinado,
and been put into prison in irons, for accidentally wounding a
Turkish boy while shooting in the neighbourhood of Scutari. Lord
Ponsonby insisted on the dismissal of the Reis Effendi who had
authorised this insult to the British Government; he was afterwards
removed.
B 3
6
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
celés en cet endroit, et y mirent le feu. Lorsqu'on
s'aperçut de l'incendie, on s'empressa d'accourir. La
garnison de Compiègne se transporta sur les lieux,
mais il étoit trop tard; sous les décombres on de-
couvrit, nous ne dirons pas deux cadavres, mais deux
morceaux de chair et d'ossemens carbonisés, ne prés-
entant aucune forme humaine, et dont l'un pesoit à
peine deux ou trois livres. Dans des testamens ils
faisoient connoître que leur mort étoit volontaire."
Sunday, 3rd. The heat continues to be into-
lerable. A duel was fought at Ghent, on the 29th
ultimo, between a Captain Thevenot, formerly a
cavalry officer under Napoleon, and an Englishman
named Tyrwhit: at the first shot Mr. Tyrwhit was
wounded in the neck, but he returned the fire and
killed his adversary. The cause of the quarrel was
an Italian lady, who was insulted by the Captain, and
claimed the protection of the Englishman.
Monday, 4th.-Pozzo di Borgo is returned to
Paris on his way to Aix in Savoye; he says the
prosperity of England is unexampled, but her poli-
tical situation embroiled beyond conception.
called upon me.
We
Thursday, 7th. —
talked much of Lord Lauderdale, who is now seventy-
seven and retired from public life. His opinion has
always been that Lord Grey was ruled by others, in
which opinion Charles Fox also coincided. In the
year 1827 Lord Grey had nearly joined the Tory
ranks; he used to meet the Duke of Wellington fre-
quently at Lord Lauderdale's, and after the death of
Lord Liverpool, was absolutely proposed to the
King as Premier, the Duke remaining Secretary for
1836.]
7
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
and
,
Foreign Affairs; but George IV. would not forget
his personal antipathy to him, and sent for Canning.
Inde iræ! In 1830, when the Duke's government
resigned on the Civil List Question, Lord Grey be-
came Prime Minister; he was then only an advocate
for moderate reform, or, as Talleyrand said of him,
only anxious to act consistently with what he had
said in Parliament forty years ago; but here again
he was overruled by
who worked
him up to that sweeping bill, which prevented him,
and will prevent any other Government, from ruling
the country again. The Whigs had been so long
excluded from Office, and their constant defeats in
the House of Commons upon every party question
had so exasperated them against the Tories, that
when once they got into place they determined to
bring on a new order of things, which, if it did not
maintain them in power, should at least for ever ex-
clude their adversaries. Night after night I can
remember the runners of the party coming up to
Brookes's Club from the House after a division, and
exulting in a few votes gained to their never-ceasing
minority, while their idol, Thanet *, who was playing
his rubber at whist, would give them a sarcastic
smile, and quietly say, "I have been with them forty
years, and have never seen them get a peg higher."
Had George IV. lived, or had the Duke of York
succeeded him, we never should have seen the pre-
sent changes in our Constitution. I am not discuss-
ing the merits of Reform; I am only tracing the
* The Earl of Thanet died in 1849. The title is extinct.
B 4
JOURNAL OF
[JULY,
8
source from whence these measures came. I have
lived much in the world, seen much of public men,
and I shall go to the grave with the sincere convic-
tion that a virulent party-spirit, and not one iota
of patriotism or public feeling, has produced this
extensive revolution. External circumstances have
doubtless contributed to aid their machinations.
That obstinate resistance of the Tories, even in the
case of East Retford, which exasperated-and the
concession of Emancipation, which gave fresh courage
to the popular party, followed by the Revolution of
July, and the insurrection in Belgium, which set
men's minds in a ferment, opened a field of action,
which was eagerly taken advantage of by this party
to pull the other down. But the Whigs at Brookes's
(I speak of former times) have always been reckoned
the highest and proudest gentlemen in society; they
styled themselves the pure aristocracy of the land;
and they have no real intention to raise those who
are below them. Your democrat is the same in
every country.
"Ote-toi de là pour que je m'y mette."
Friday, 8th.-This morning the trial of Alibaud
commenced with the usual formalities in the Court
of Peers: there is every disposition to hurry over the
ceremony, and give it as little public éclat as pos-
sible. Warned by the notoriety which Fieschi ob-
tained, the Government has forbidden the exhibition
of Alibaud's picture; the examination tends merely
to the main points of the accusation; and it is thus
hoped, by shortening the process, and giving little
1836.]
9
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
scope for public discussion, to disappoint that hope
of celebrity which is one of the chief excitements to
the vanity of these republican conspirators. Alibaud
criminates no one, has no accomplices, he owns him-
self a disciple of St. Just, and a sworn enemy to
Louis-Philippe; his poverty disgusted him with life,
and hesitating between suicide and crime, he pre-
ferred the latter, for which he felt no remorse. The
Court broke up at five o'clock, and was adjourned till
to-morrow.
It has just been discovered that the mineral water
of a celebrated spring near Recoara, a few leagues
from Vicenza, possesses the property of destroying
the stone in the bladder without any operation. Dr.
Brua has published a memoir on the subject.
The rich Anatole Demidoff has lately been
attacked by a paralytic seizure, and lies in a danger-
ous state.
Saturday, 9th.—The trial of Alibaud was resumed
this morning. In his defence he attempted to read a
written paper, in which the opinions avowed by the
prisoner were so violent, that the President would
not allow him to proceed, and ordered it to be deli-
vered up to the Registrar. At another time, when
his counsel pleaded for mercy, Alibaud exclaimed
that he would not receive it. The Court broke up
at half-past two, having condemned the prisoner to
the death of parricides.
M. De Caux said this afternoon to the Duc de
Saulx, when he entered the Club, after attending
the trial as a Peer of France, "Eh bien, avez vous
condamné cet intriguant ?”
10
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
Lord and Lady Granville left Paris for London
on leave of absence for a few months.
Sunday, 10th.-Even the counsel of Alibaud are
not permitted to visit him since his condemnation. A
soldier who had seen him, on being asked how he had
appeared to be since his sentence was made known
to him, replied, "Just the same; he is made of iron.”
Monday, 11th.-Yesterday morning Police officers
repaired early to the offices of the different journals,
prohibiting the publication of Alibaud's defence.
Alibaud was executed this morning at five o'clock.
The whole ceremony on the scaffold did not occupy
more than nine minutes; his demeanour was cool
and resolute; he merely said, "Adieu, my brave
fellows," and he was a corpse. There was an
armed force of 30,000 men assembled round the
Place St. Jaques, and but few spectators could get
admittance within their ranks.
*
*
*
و
*
*
*
*
One of Henry Fox's* jokes was that played off
on the late Mrs.
who had a great fondness for
making the acquaintance of foreigners. He first
forged a letter of recommendation to her in favour of
a German nobleman, the Baron von Seidlitz Powdertz,
whose card was left at her door, and for whom a
dinner was immediately planned by Mrs. and
an invitation sent in form. After waiting a con-
siderable time no Baron appearing, the dinner was
,
* Henry Fox was the son of General Fox, uncle of the late Lord
Holland, and brother of the Right Hon. Charles Fox. He was re-
markable for his social and colloquial powers. He was Minister to
the United States, and died at Washington, in October, 1846.
1836.]
11
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
served; but during the second course a note was
brought to the lady of the house, with excuses from
the Baron, who was unexpectedly prevented from
coming by the sudden death of his aunt, the Duchess
von Epzom Saltz, which she read out to the company
without any suspicion of the joke, and to the enter-
tainment of her guests, among whom was the
facetious author.
Friday, 15th.-There is much discontent in the
legion of mercenaries commanded by Evans: officers
and men are anxious to resign, and severe measures
are adopted to prevent desertion. No great action has
taken place between the Carlists and Christinos, but
in the late skirmishes the former have evidently been
successful.
Monday, 18th. The horrid ceremony of the
ferrage des forçats, or rivetting the convicts to the
chain who are departing to the Bagne at Toulon,
took place this morning at the Bicêtre: they are
brought out into the court of the prison, and mana-
cled two and two, while a long chain connects them
all together, each cordon being composed of twenty-
eight convicts; they are then placed in waggons,
and, guarded by troops and gendarmes, proceed to
their destination. A M. Champion, more generally
known by the name of the Man with a Blue Cloak,
always assists at this ceremony from motives of
charity, and distributes a quantity of snuff and
tobacco amongst the sufferers. To-day the chain
was composed of 171 culprits convicted of different
crimes, who are sentenced to various terms of labour
at the Galleys. They are chiefly of the lower orders,
12
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
and of the most infamous characters, but on the present
occasion a clergyman, the Abbé Delacollange, who
was convicted of the murder of a milliner whom he
had seduced, formed part of the wretched gang.
There were above 100,000 people assembled on the
road to see this procession pass, among whom were
several well-dressed ladies in carriages. The conduct
of the prisoners generally was hardened, noisy, and
abandoned; they sang in chorus different couplets
composed for the occasion, in which they blended
revolutionary feelings with complaints on their fate.
One of the least exceptionable was the following:-
"Regardez nous, et contemplez nos rangs,
En est-il un qui repande des larmes ?
Nous de Paris nous sommes tous enfans,
Notre douleur pour vous auroit des charmes.
Adieu! car nous bravons et vos fers et vos lois,
Nous saurons endurer le sort qu'on nous prépare,
Et moins que vous, barbares!
Le temps saura nous rendre et nos noms, et nos droits,
Et la renommée!"
Wednesday, 20th. Sir M. W. Ridley died on
Friday last at Richmond of apoplexy.
Motteux, who has been making a short stay at Va-
lencay, is in Paris, and says that M. de Talleyrand
is in very good health, notwithstanding the reports
here to the contrary.
During the heat of the Great Revolution, when
the populace rushed into the château of the Tuile-
ries on the 20th June, two individuals were observed
walking arm in arm on the terrasse near the river,
engaged in conversation. One was dressed in the
1836.]
13
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
The ar-
uniform of the Royal Artillery rather the worse for
wear, and the other was in plain clothes.
tilleryman was heard to say to his companion, "Viens
du côté des bassins, et suivons les mouvemens de
cette canaille."
When they arrived in the middle of the garden,
the officer appeared to be fired with indignation on
seeing the disorders committed in the palace, and
particularly when Louis XVIII. was forced to ap-
pear at the window, with a bonnet rouge on his
head; he then exclaimed to his friend, "Che Cog-
lione, comment a-t-on pu laisser entrer cette canaille ?
Il falloit en balayer quatre ou cinq cens avec du
canon, le reste courrait bien vîte.”
This indignant speaker was Napoleon Bonaparte ;
had he then been overheard by the mob, the future
destinies of Europe would have been altered, and
France would have been deprived of a great name in
her history.
Thursday, 21st. I went with B― to look at
B-
the works going on at Bagatelle. He could not
conceal his apprehensions that the Ministry would
resign; they have declared that they would stand or
fall by the Appropriation Clause in the Irish Church
Bill, which will never be carried in the Lords; and
as many of their own party think it not of sufficient
importance to be so rashly adhered to, they will be
left in the lurch.
Charles X. and his family have removed to the
Château of Erla, a quarter of a league from Schon-
brunn, lately purchased by the Duke de Blacas,
it is supposed, for the Duchess d'Angoulême. The
14
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
King of Naples went to visit him, as well as the
Archdukes.
Friday, 22nd. Last week died Sir Francis
Freeling, for many years Secretary to the General
Post Office in London, in the regulation of which he
effected great improvements.
·
Saturday, 23rd. A trait is cited of the famous
counsel, M. Berryer, which reflects the greatest
credit on his liberality and goodness of heart. Du-
ring the circuit, which he has attended this month in
the provinces, he was retained as counsel, and de-
fended the cause of a M. Dehors, who had already
been condemned in another court (from which judg-
ment he appealed) on a charge of arson, the wit-
nesses of which were of a suspicious character.
M. Berryer, on investigation, having convinced
himself of the innocence of his client, exerted him-
self with so much zeal and so much eloquence on his
behalf, that he not only obtained a complete ac-
quittal of the charge, but also the reversal of the
preceding judgment.
On the following day M. Dehors, accompanied by
his family, paid a visit of gratitude to his eloquent
defender; and acknowledging himself unequal ever
to repay a service which had preserved to him his
fortune, his honour, and his life, begged, although
contrary to the general usage, to present in per-
son a slight tribute of gratitude and respect to his
benefactor; saying which, he laid upon the table
a purse containing a large sum of money. M.
Berryer immediately took up this purse, and, divid-
ing its contents in two equal parts, said first to
1836.]
15
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Madlle. Dehors, "I beg that I may add this sum to
your marriage portion." Then turning to the young
Dehors, he addressed him thus, "Young man, the
misfortunes of your father have forced you to sus-
pend during two long years your usual occupations;
allow me in some degree to make you a reparation
for the time which you have lost." And when Mr.
Dehors, in a voice interrupted by sobs, wished to
prevent this generous intention, M. Berryer con-
cluded by saying, "Let us drop this subject: nothing
can alter my determined resolution. Your children
have shown the most admirable devotion and filial
affection. I have a clear right to give them this
proof of my esteem, and this compensation for the
sacrifices which they have undergone."
Sunday, 24th.-Preparatory to the anniversary of
the three days in July, workmen have been for a
long time occupied in erecting a spacious scaffolding
around the triumphal arch at the Barrière de l'Etoile
for the accommodation of the public during the
pageant which was destined to celebrate the opening
of this monument. The "Moniteur" of last night
announces that a Cabinet Council was held in the
morning at Neuilly before the King, at which all
the Ministers attended, and in consequence of their
decision the intended review of the National Guard
and the troops on the 29th is countermanded.
The workmen are now employed in demolishing
the scaffolding, which they had just erected.
Yesterday and the day before domiciliary visits
have been made in various parts of Paris, and the
police have arrested above one hundred and fifty in-
16
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
dividuals, some of whom were in possession of arms,
cartouches, and seditious papers, which have been
conveyed to the Hôtel de la Préfecture.
Some information of a very serious nature has, it
is said, produced this sudden resolution of the Go-
vernment.
It is now six years since Louis-Philippe ascended
the throne of this country; and though his power may
be more consolidated, his crown and his life seem
to be held by a more precarious tenure than ever.
The Carlist malcontents, though numerous, are
completely absolved from all suspicion of plotting.
The Republicans, though few, are alone the reckless
instigators.
Louis-Philippe has thrown down the gauntlet
manfully, if not wisely. He will hear of no con-
ciliation, and he meets resistance with severity:
but whole armies may be foiled by one cowardly
assassin.
A duel took place on Thursday morning between
M. Armand Carrel, editor of the "National," and
M. Emile Girardin, likewise homme de lettres. The
latter was wounded in the thigh, but the former
received a ball in the abdomen, which in a few hours
brought on violent inflammation, and terminated his
existence yesterday morning.
Monday, 25th.-The arrests still continue, and
the passports of all travellers are rigidly examined.
The weather is become cold and rainy, like the
month of November.
Talleyrand is unexpectedly arrived in Paris, and
went immediately to the King. The events of this
1836.]
17
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
world interest him as deeply as if he had still several
years to live.
The funeral of M. Carrel took place this day. It
was attended by numerous friends; but the anxiety
of the Government was clearly demonstrated by the
peculiar precautions taken to preserve order on the
occasion. The posts of the gendarmerie and national
guard were doubled at all the barriers, and parties
of troops and sergens de ville were seen patrolling in
all directions near the spot. There was not the least
attempt at disturbance.
It appears that M. Carrel had a strong presenti-
ment of his fate. He was so deeply impressed with
a dream he had on Tuesday night, that, although he
never before thought of making his will, even when
he was going to fight a duel, he passed the greater
part of Wednesday night in making his will and
settling all his worldly affairs.
Thiers, the Minister, and Mignet, the historian,
were both editors of the " National” with Carrel.
66
Tuesday, 26th.— The dilemma of the Whig Minis-
try seems to increase; their Radical supporters are
incensed at the lenity of the English Church Bill;
and at a meeting of members at the Foreign Office
on Friday morning, O'Connell stood up as a mediator
between Lord John Russell and the Hume party,
fearing that this schism on an English question
might prejudice his selfish views of revolution in
Ireland. The meeting broke up amidst such general
dissatisfaction, that though this weighty question
was to come on that night, the Ministers were un-
VOL. III.
C
18
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
able or unwilling to make a house. Threats of re-
signation were held out and met with derision.
Wednesday, 27th.-Having alluded to the chain
of convicts which departed lately from the Bicêtre to
the bagne at Toulon, it may be well to notice a pe-
culiarity in the jurisdiction of those prisons, which
allows them a private court, with power of life
and death, for the trial of all convicts within their
own walls who, by fresh crimes, may have rendered
themselves liable to further punishment. In the
bagne at Rochfort, a criminal named Jaquemard was
accused of an attempt to murder a fellow-prisoner
with a bar of iron. This Jaquemard was only
twenty-three years old when he was condemned, in
1820, to travaux forcés à perpétuité for the crime
of murdering his father-in-law.
What is called a maritime tribunal was assembled
to judge this fresh delinquency; and the prisoner,
being found guilty, was sentenced to lose his head.
In consequence the interior of the bagne was oc-
cupied by detachments of artillery and marines, by
detachments of the gardes chiourmes, and the mari-
time gensdarmes. The prisoners were ranged in a
row opposite the soldiers, whose pieces were loaded,
and the artillerymen with lighted matches and loaded
cannon.
An awful silence pervaded the prison, when the
sound of a whistle announced the commencement of
the fearful ceremony. An adjutant ordered the as-
sembled convicts, who were alone present on the
occasion, to take off their caps and place themselves
on their knees. All obeyed but one, who exclaimed,
1836.]
19
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
“Je suis au bagne depuis vingt ans ; tout le monde sait
que je suis ici le plus grand criminel; je demande
qu'on me mette à la place de Jaquemard."
The guards enjoined him to be silent, and com-
pelled him to kneel with the others, at the same time
taking his number, with a view to future correction.
Jaquemard at length appeared, supported by two
priests. He was firm and composed: two other
convicts followed in his train, destined to act as
his executioners, as the bourreau of the department
had declined the office, not being compelled to execute
any sentence which was not awarded by the regular
Assize Courts.
Jaquemard addressed his comrades in a penitent
mood, and received absolution from his confessor,
who fainted as soon as the head dropped into the
basket.
The convicts, whom it was intended to awe by
this example, then returned to their accustomed
labours.
The celebration of the fêtes began to-day, and
created no interest. The slight to the National
Guard, in countermanding their review, will not be
forgotten, while a smile is created by the inconsistent
attempt of courting popularity for the present reign,
by connecting it with that of Napoleon. A medal
is struck to commemorate the opening of the Arc de
Triomphe, on which the profiles of Napoleon and
Louis-Philippe appear together. The farce of cele-
brating yearly the last revolution must soon be aban-
doned, as while the authors of it who died are
honoured with funeral rites, those who have survived
c 2
20
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
are either languishing in prison, or the objects of
constant suspicion and persecution.
Thursday, 28th.-The Appropriation Clause in
the Irish Church Bill was rejected in the House of
Lords on the 25th instant, by a majority of 138
against 47. Lord Melbourne said, that he should
wash his hands of the Bill, but that he would not
resign, as long as he had a majority in the other
house. The 1st of August will be an important day
in that house.
The fêtes consist merely of the usual junkettings
in the Champs Elysées.
Friday, 29th.-The last of the three days, and a
bitter day it must have been to Louis-Philippe.
While all the town has been celebrating the principles
which placed him on the throne, neither he nor any
of his family have dared to show their faces in public.
What a satire on revolutions! The illuminations at
the Arc de Triomphe, which was opened to the public,
those in the Champs Elysées, and the fireworks on
the Pont de Louis XVI., would have been very fine,
if an almost unceasing heavy rain had not destroyed
all the effect. It seems to be the general feeling, that
whatever danger might have been apprehended by
the Government, and the public know nothing,
the King ought to have braved it, as independent
of the obloquy which it occasions at home, this con-
duct must impress the foreign Powers with a full
conviction of the instability of everything in this
country.
Saturday, 30th.It is said that the Queen, full
of apprehension and anxiety, was still an advocate
1836.]
21
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
for the King appearing at the review, but M. Thiers,
who knew that as Minister he must accompany him,
who is moreover a very bad horseman, and was afraid
of the double danger, carried his point. Three
different newspapers, "Le National," "La France,”
and "Le Bon Sens," were tried yesterday before the
Cour d'Assises, for publishing articles considered too
favourable to Alibaud; the editors have all been
condemned to fines and imprisonment. King Leopold
and his consort are returned to Brussels.
Sunday, 31st.—Walked to the Hôtel des Invalides
to see the chapel which had been hung with mourn-
ing attributes, in commemoration of those who
were killed last year by the infernal machine. The
catafalque with the names of the deceased was placed
in the centre aisle, the coffins are deposited in the
vaults below. One thing struck me in the great
quadrangle of the hospital:- which was a large
statue of Napoleon, while no trace of the real founder,
Louis XIV., was to be seen.
Young Augustus Craven, who was married three
years ago to Miss Smith, died the other day, after
a very short illness, at the age of twenty-seven.
The Lords have again amended the Irish Church
Bill, and returned it to the Commons, who are to
take it into consideration on Tuesday the 2nd of
next month, and their majority on the Appropriation
Clause is to decide the duration of the present Minis-
try. Belfast bets me that they have more than 30.
The operations under Captain Chesney to effect a
steam passage to India on the river Euphrates, have
met with a serious impediment in the loss of one of
C 3
22
LAUGUST,
JOURNAL OF
the two steam boats, which foundered during a storm
in navigating that river, and above fifteen lives were
lost.
-
Monday, August 1st. On the 28th ultimo died
at Frankfort our great millionnaire in London, Nathan
Meyer Rothschild: he had visited that place to wit-
ness the marriage of his son with one of his nieces,
and was attacked with a painful complaint, which in
a few days carried him away from his treasures: he
was not an old man, certainly under sixty; but he
has laboured all his life to one point, which has been
crowned with great success, though short has been
the time allowed for its enjoyment. The letters
from Frankfort state that he died worth above four
millions sterling.
Thursday, 4th.-The cholera is still raging in
Italy. At Milan the cases are 50 to 60 per day.
Cruvelli the famous singer is dead of it.
The King of England on hearing that the Duke
of Bedford had subscribed to assist O'Connell, ordered
his bust in the gallery of Windsor Castle to be taken
down and sent to the limekilns. If Louis XIV.
had done the same to a Noailles or a Tremouille, they
would have died of grief, John of Bedford will pro-
bably laugh.
:
We drove this evening to view the triumphal arch
at the Barrière de l'Etoile it is a magnificent pile,
but the colossal sculptures are mostly ill-executed as
works of art. In the long list of victories obtained by
the French armies, the King has taken care to intro-
duce the two little scenes in which he himself was
present at Valmy and Jemappes. Passing the gates
1836.]
23
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
of the château, at Neuilly and about the grounds,
we observed a most unusual number of guards,
police, gensdarmes, and mouchards of every descrip-
tion.
Friday, 5th.-The Amended Irish Church Bill
was rejected by the Commons with a small majority
of 29, and laid on the shelf for the present: thus
Ireland is deprived of the proposed relief for another
twelvemonth, to keep the Whigs in place.
Madame Visconti, the mother of Princess Belgiojoso,
who came here six months ago to avoid the cholera,
died the other day of a casual fever. She had for
many years been the chère amie of Cannizzaro at
Florence. The old Marchioness of Downshire died
last week; her second son, Lord Arthur Hill,
becomes Baron Sandys, with a good estate.
The King of Naples arrived yesterday in Paris,
and is lodged at the Elysée Bourbon.
The Carlists have made an irruption into Castille,
and on a report that a corps had pushed within five
leagues of San Ildefonso, where the queen's fête
had attracted a great concourse of people, all were
seized with a panic, and retreated in confusion back
to Madrid.
Saturday, 6th.-Accounts from Constantinople
state that Lord Ponsonby's tenacity for the removal
of the Reis Effendi has very much cooled the
Sultan's feelings towards England; he has, indeed,
been dismissed under the plea of ill-health, but
Russian influence will gain by the misunderstanding.
General Bugeaud*, who was sent lately from the
* Afterwards Marshal, and Duke of Isly, died in 1849.
C 4
24
[AUGUST,
JOURNAL OF
Tuileries to Algiers, has gained a victory over Abd el
Kader, and taken several prisoners, who are on their
way to Paris, to be exhibited as a trophy to the
idlers and grisettes in the Champs Elysées.
Sunday, 7th.-On the 17th of March a young man
named Virges, in the neighbourhood of Agen,
watched his opportunity, while the Curé of the
parish was absent, to make his way into the vestry,
and dressing himself in the robes of the priest, took
his place in one of the confessionals of the church to
hear penitents. A young girl soon made her ap-
pearance, and deceived by the dress of the impostor,
made to him a full and entire confession of her sins.
As soon as the ceremony was finished, he went into
the public square and openly boasted that he had
confessed the prettiest girl in the place. The officers
of justice soon apprehended him, and he will be
tried before the Court of Assizes for a misdemeanour ;
but what would have been his fate seventy years
ago? In the year 1766 the Chevalier De la Barre,
a youth only seventeen years of age, was accused
before the Tribunal of Abbeville, " d'être véhémente-
ment soupçonné d'avoir brisé le Crucifix," and was
condemned to lose his head, having first undergone
the torture and the amputation of his right hand,
which sentence was confirmed by the Parliament,
and duly executed.
Monday, 8th.-Forrester, the Russian broker in
London, who arrived in France with a large sum,
has been sent to prison for six months, as the penalty
of using a passport with a false name.
Wednesday, 9th.-Several robberies and murders
1836.]
25
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
have been committed in Paris lately. On Monday
night, between eleven and twelve, Mr. Nagle, of
Cork, son of Sir Richard Nagle, was attacked in the
Rue de Varennes by two men, who wounded him
so dreadfully with a knife that he died the next
morning. The inefficacy of the police is a subject
of general complaint; and as if to excuse their neg-
ligence in preventing mischief, they arrest every
one who comes in their way when the alarm is given.
It is not very safe in such cases to offer assistance:
a friend of mine, some time back, was induced to
assist a dying man on the boulevard, the police
arrived, and arrested him as the murderer. While
life is thus threatened in the open street, all means
of defence are prohibited by the new laws, which
subject the bearer even of a loaded stick, or a
sword cane, to an immediate fine.
At Malaga and other towns of Spain the consti-
tution of 1812 has been declared, and several mur-
ders committed. Orders have been given here to
increase the French Legion in that country to a
considerable extent.
Thursday, 11th.--The news from Spain is more
alarming: Cadiz, Seville, Cordova, and other cities,
have simultaneously proclaimed the Constitution,
and great uproar has ensued in Madrid.
There is a particular colour in France named
Isabelle: a yellow dun horse is called a cheval
Isabelle. The origin of the term is said to be derived
from the following incident:-"Dans les guerres
d'Espagne la Reine Isabelle s'engagea par un vœu à
la Sainte Vierge à ne pas changer de linge jusqu'au
26
[AUGUST,
JOURNAL OF
jour où la ville de Granade assiégée seroit prise;
les chroniques assurent que la longueur du siége
ayant depassé de beaucoup les calculs de la Reine,
sa chemise, quand elle put la quitter, sans enfreindre
son vœu, avoit contracté par un trop long usage
cette teinte, qu'on a nommé dépuis la couleur
Isabelle."
Friday, 12th.-I had a letter from Wiltshire this
morning at Leghorn; he says the cholera is all over
the north of Italy, and the quarantine regulations
most vexatious to all travellers.
Saturday, 13th.-C. Greville writes to me from
London: "Parliament will be up in a fortnight:
things always go on well in the recess; and as every
thing flourishes to the greatest degree, our prosperity
will probably only march with an accelerated pace.
While the revenue presents an excess of two millions,
and there is ample employment for everybody, and
no distress in any quarter, there is no possibility of
stirring up people to any thing like excitement,
scarcely to any interest about abstract political ques-
tions. Ireland is a subject by itself. It is dreadful
to think of the disease which appears to pervade
society in France, and of the danger to which the
valuable life of your King is exposed, while our
monarch lives in perfect security."
Sunday, 14th.-Both Sir Brook Taylor and I,
who dined with Stopford at the Hôtel des Princes
to-day, are much struck with the alteration in his
looks. He is seriously broken by his late illness.
His shrunk figure and his glassy eye give great
cause for apprehension.
1836.]
27
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
A free conference has taken place between the
Lords and the Commons on the subjects in dispute,
without effecting any conciliation.
Tuesday, 16th.-M. Thiers has got into a scrape;
he insists on a further increase of the auxiliary
Legion in Spain, and the King, who had consented
to 10,000, will not permit the number to be ex-
ceeded, and this difference of opinion may possibly
lead to a change in the Ministry. Thiers shows
about a letter from General Harispe, the commander
at Bayonne, in which he says, that if the French
Legion, Evans's band, and the Portuguese troops
were all placed under one distinct command, he
would answer for their complete success in defeating
and expelling Don Carlos from Spain. Another
source of disagreement is, that M. Thiers wishes to
give the command of the Legion to General Bugeaud,
who is just returned from Algiers, and the King is
violently opposed to it.
Wednesday, 17th.—The following telegraphic dis-
patches have been received this morning:
"S. Ildefonso, 13th August.-A military insur-
rection compelled the Queen Regent to accept the
Constitution of 1812 this morning. Everything is
tranquil.
"Madrid, 13th August. The news of S. Ildefonso
begins to be spread at Madrid. The Council of
Ministers is assembled. Thus affairs become daily
more intricate; and the Spanish funds, which a
month ago were at forty-two, have fallen to thirty-
one.”
Thursday, 18th. As soon as the above dis-
28
[AUGUST,
JOURNAL OF
patches were known, an end was put to the discus-
sions in the Cabinet, an order was sent to Bayonne
by telegraph to defer the entrance into Spain of the
reinforcements destined for the Foreign Legion.
Another circumstance may have had some weight in
this decision: Lord Palmerston has declared in the
House of Commons that the English forces should
not fight against the Constitutionalists, whom, of all
the three parties, Louis-Philippe in his heart would
be most anxious to put down.
Saturday, 20th.-The news from Madrid is con-
firmed; the Isturitz Cabinet is dissolved, Rodil is
commander-in-chief of the army; but all is doubt
and anxiety for the future.
Monday, 22nd.— The King's speech arrived. Par-
liament was prorogued on Saturday.
Tuesday, 23rd.-The populace at Madrid have
murdered General Quesada, who had escaped from
the palace in disguise.
Thursday, 25th.-In consequence of the late dis-
sensions in the Cabinet, M. Thiers and his colleagues
gave in their resignations to the King this day.
General Alava, the Spanish ambassador, has re-
fused to swear to the Constitution of 1812, and has
resigned his post. He was a great friend of the
Duke of Wellington; attended him through his
Spanish campaigns till 1814; then lived as his guest
in Apsley House for many years in London. On
the death of Ferdinand, by whom he was banished,
he returned to Spain, was sent by the Government
of Isabella as ambassador to London, then to Paris,
1836.]
29
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
and will now probably return to Tours, where his
family still resides.
Lord Lyndhurst's speech at the close of Parlia-
ment contained the most sarcastic reflections on the
system of the present Whig Government, conveyed
in the most eloquent language; the reply of Lord
Melbourne, and the testy manner of Lord Holland,
proved how severely it was felt.
>
a
Friday, 26th. The election for Warwick is
another blow to the Radical party. Mr. Canning *
young man, the son of the late Premier, and a strong
Conservative, has signally defeated Mr. Hobhouse,
brother of Sir J. C. Hobhouse the Minister. The
Whigs had formed great hopes of success in this
borough.
Saturday, 27th. The open manner in which the
Carlists at the Club express their opinion of Louis-
Philippe is very remarkable. No Ministry is as yet
appointed, but Count Molé is talked of as President.
The King of Naples has taken his departure without
making any proposal of marriage to a French prin-
cess; he is a fat young man, neither intelligent in
countenance nor graceful in his manners.
Sunday, 28th. The Duke de Gramont, formerly
captain of the body guards to Louis XVI., and
afterwards to Charles X., died this day at the age of
eighty-one years. He was one of the few remnants
of the old school, and abounded in anecdotes of that
* Now Lord Canning, Governor-General of India, married to
the eldest daughter of the late Lord Stuart de Rothsay.
30
[AUGUST,
JOURNAL OF
period. He has not left much property, though
formerly his appointments under the Bourbons were
very splendid. It will be divided between his chil-
dren, the Duc de Guiche, Lady Tankerville, and
Madame Sebastiani.
A very curious trial has just taken place before
the Court of Assize in Paris on the occasion of a
duel which took place between a M. Sirey, a lawyer,
and a M. Daupain, in which the latter was killed.
The counsel for the prosecution insisted that the two
parties had not an equal chance as to the weapons,
and that the duel was provoked by the survivor for
the underhand purpose of avoiding a lawsuit for
money transactions, by killing his antagonist. The
suit was maintained with great talent on both sides
by the counsel, M. Chaix d'Estange for the widow,
and M. Cremieux for Sirey, assisted by all the
stage effect of introducing relations and children
to work upon the feelings of the jury and the spec-
tators. The proofs were very strong against the
accused, but ultimately the testimony of the seconds
seemed to allow that the combat was legally con-
ducted, and the jury brought in a verdict of acquit-
tal; but on the demand of the widow of the deceased
for damages on behalf of her daughter, the Court
sentenced Sirey to pay to her 10,000 francs, and the
costs of the proceedings.
This is looked upon as the precedent for some new
law to restrain the frequency of duels, by imposing
heavy damages on the survivor.
Monday, 29th.-I met Prince Paul of Wirtem-
berg to-day, who is lately returned from a tour to
1836.]
31
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
the Rhine, &c.: he told me that a serious dispute
had occurred at dinner at Neuilly between the King
of Naples and the Duke of Orleans on the subject of
the Duchess of Berry; words ran so high that the
King was going to rise from table and retire, when
Louis-Philippe ordered his son to leave the room,
and go to his own apartment; the next day he was
sent to the camp at Compiègne.
Lord Kerry, the eldest son of the Marquis of
Lansdowne, died last week of atrophy, aged only
twenty-three.
Tuesday, 30th. There is no Ministry appointed.
The King of Naples met his brother, the Prince of
Capua, at Lyons, but refused to see him.
Talleyrand is sent for to Paris, but has excused
himself from ill-health.
Monday, Sept. 5th.- Last night the troops were
under arms at the barracks, and the guards at the dif-
ferent posts doubled. It is asserted that a plot had
been laid for surrounding the prefecture of police, and
making an attack on the palace at Neuilly,- one
thing is certain, that several arrests have taken place
this morning, and some arms have been found and
confiscated.
Tuesday, 6th. After thirteen days' interval a
new Ministry has been declared. Count Molé is
President and Minister for Foreign Affairs, Guizot,
of Public Instruction, Persil Keeper of the Seals,
Admiral Roussel Marine, and War Department
also, ad interim, till Marshal Soult's answer is re-
ceived.
It is a medley of doctrinaire and restoration sys-
32
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
tem, which, it is said, will take a more decided foreign
policy, and be less agreeable to Lord Palmerston.
Thursday, 8th.-The Duke of Orleans is returned
from the camp at Compiègne: it is rumoured that
some instances of disaffection have been shown by
the troops. Affairs in Spain are at a stand; the new
government seems undecided how to act, till the
Cortes are assembled; but the best proof of the
ascendancy of the Radical party is the constant emi-
gration of families of fortune, which is going on from
Spain to France.
Friday, 9th.-An event has occurred in London
that causes the utmost dismay in society.
*
*
*
*
*
*
The first intimation which I had of it was in a
letter shown to me by Lord Lowther from Croker,
in which he says,
has levanted and gone abroad.
*
*
*
*
*
After winning considerable sums of money at
whist from Mr.
and others, he has been
detected in playing with marked cards at Graham's
Club, and is disgraced for ever.
*
*
*
*
*
Baron Fain, Chief Secretary of the Cabinet to
Louis-Philippe, died this morning at eight o'clock;
he held the same office for many years under Napo-
leon, who esteemed him highly.
Thursday, 15th.-The Duc de C, whom I
saw this morning, expressed great anxiety about the
affairs in Spain, which he considered as fearfully
implicating the peace of Europe. I could not imagine
why he should dwell on this subject with so much
1836.]
33
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
interest, till in a few hours afterwards I learnt that
the Embassy to Madrid had been offered to him, and
he could not make up his mind as yet whether he
should refuse or accept it.
Marshal Soult has positively declined the Ministry
at War: there seems much difficulty in filling up this
appointment. Evans's troops have made an attack
upon the Carlists at Laserta, and have been driven
back with loss.
Saturday, 17th.-We went to the Jardin des
Plantes, which is now much inferior to our Zoologi-
cal Gardens, though the grounds are more extensive.
The principal objects of curiosity were two elephants,
a giraffe, and an ourang-outang.
The latter re-
mained invisible all the day, and declined coming
out of his den, though a crowd of people were at-
tending his levée with great impatience.
Sunday, 18th.-Lord Graham is to marry Miss
Beresford.
Monday, 19th.-A revolution has taken place in
Portugal, and the same scene which has been acted
in Spain revived in Lisbon. The Queen has been
forced to swear to the constitution of 1820, and
while the patriots were parading before the palace
with white hats, she and the young Prince, her
husband, appeared in the balcony pale and motionless
as marble.
The Ministry has been dismissed by the leaders of
the people; Carvalho has been denounced, and both
he and his colleagues are gone into concealment,
expecting the fate of Quesada at Madrid, as the
Clubs were undecided whether they should be assas-
VOL. III.
D
34
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
sinated or not. Here is another perplexity for the
famed Quadrupartite Treaty, and a fresh instance of
the benefit accruing from English interference in the
affairs of the Peninsula. Our Whig Government
imagines that they can obtain all the popularity of
advocating revolutionary principles, and yet establish
a medium point, beyond which they shall not pass.
They have now failed in Spain and Portugal, — will
they succeed in England?
Tuesday, 20th.-I went to the Variétés to see a
new piece by Alex. Dumas, called "Kean." Our
late actor is represented as the most intimate friend
of George Prince of Wales, and his rival in the
affections of the ladies of the Court. There are in-
teresting scenes produced by the circumstances of
the piece; but it is a strange fault in a clever author
to have evinced such profound ignorance of the
usages of the country he delineates.
Wednesday, 21st.-General Bernard is named
Minister at War. "La Fille du Danube," the new
ballet which we saw to-night, would be dull without
Taglioni's dancing. The Queen and the two Prin-
cesses sat in a conspicuous centre box, without any
state, attended by three ladies and one gentleman
only. To say that they were received with indiffer-
ence is not the term; the house was crowded in all
parts, but not an eye was turned towards the Royal
box, not one token of respect or even attention
was paid to the party. The Queen of the French
attracted no more notice on entering and retiring from
the house than the commonest bourgeoise of the Ruc
St. Denis. She was looking very ill and emaciated.
1836.]
35
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
3
Thursday, 22nd. - The Coronation of the Em-
peror of Austria took place on the 7th inst., at
Prague, with great pomp. Very few English were
present: the Jerseys, the Wicklows, and Lord Al-
vanley. Lady Jersey was received with much at-
tention by the Imperial family.
The affairs of Spain become daily more compli-
cated; the Republic has been declared in Valencia
and Tortosa. Mendizabal is again made Minister of
Finance, and it is suspected that his agency has con-
tributed to produce the two sudden revolutions pro-
claimed in the Peninsula.
Friday, 23rd.—A good deal of political conversa-
tion this evening at the Comtesse de Girardin's, but
nothing new. She is one of the very clever and
agreeable women of the old régime in France, be-
longing to the society called Le Petit Château.
She was a Vintimille, and is sister to Madame
Greffulhe, since married to the Comte de Ségur.
General Girardin served under Napoleon, but ad-
hered to the Bourbons at the Restoration, and was
made Grand Veneur to Louis XVIII.
Saturday, 24th.- The Spanish and Portuguese
funds have had another serious fall. The 5 per cents
of the former have been as low as 17.
The whole
fabric of Spanish finance suggested by Mendizabal
has crumbled to the dust.
Monday, 26th.-Lord Lichfield has won the St.
Leger. His horse Elis was brought to Doncaster in
a caravan drawn by post-horses.
Tuesday, 27th.-Sir R. and Lady Peel are gone
on a visit to Prince Talleyrand at Valençay.
D 2
36
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
There is nothing, perhaps, which strikes a foreigner
in England more forcibly than the beauty of the
horses, and the skilfulness of our coachmen, when
compared with those of other countries; but a French
author, M. Loéve Veimar, has expressed his admi-
ration in terms which might flatter the vanity of
every English coachman.
"C'étoit un plaisir que de voir les bondissemens
et l'ardeur presque sauvage des chevaux, contenus
sans efforts par la main calme et prudente du cocher
flegmatiquement assis sur son siége, le manche de son
fouet appuyé sur sa cuisse droite, et soulevant de sa
main gauche les longues rênes, dont la blancheur
éclatoit sous un brillant et rare éclair du soleil
Britannique. Napoléon commandant son portrait
équestre à son peintre David, lui disoit de le repré-
senter calme sur un cheval fougueux; il vouloit ainsi
caracteriser la puissance et la force. A ce compte il
n'est pas de cocher Anglais, assis sur sa housse
galonnée, qui n'ait l'attitude d'un conquérant."
Wednesday, 28th.-The musical world has lost one
of its most distinguished vocalists. Mme. Malibran,
who was engaged at the Manchester Music Meeting,
was suddenly taken ill, and died in that town, after
an illness of a few days, on Friday last. She was
the daughter of Garcia, well known formerly on the
Italian stage in London, and brought up in England,
but her talents have since obtained celebrity not only
in Europe, but in America, where she contracted her
first marriage with a French merchant, M. Malibran.
At the time of her death she was married to M. de
Bériot.
1836.]
37
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Friday, 30th. - General Lagrange told me that
he had just paid a visit to Napoleon's sister, the
Countess de Lipano, who has obtained leave to
come to Paris for a month, and is now residing at the
corner of the Rue Royale. He described her as very
much affected at visiting the Column in the Place
Vendôme, and the remembrance of past times. She
is very little altered, and still retains the traces of
her past beauty when Madame Murat. The recol-
lection of former intimacies and former benefits has
rendered many of the individuals of that family
objects of strong attachment to those who flourished
in the time of the Empire.
Monday, October 3rd.— My birthday; formerly a
day of congratulation with my family and friends,
but now only remembered in private by myself, as a
point in the year which marks a continuation of
misfortune and an advance to the grave. I have
likewise remarked that of late years some bad news
is received, or some disappointment or cross event
occurs, upon that day, as a sort of prelude to the
coming year.
Tuesday, 4th.-Count Sablenski mentioned to-day
that he had received news of Demidoff, who is at
Florence, in a shattered state of mind and body from
his late paralytic attack, which precludes all the
enjoyment of his immense fortune. As no one is
doomed to be completely happy in this world, such
dispensations make me ashamed of repining at my
pecuniary losses, while I have still health and other
blessings demanding unfeigned gratitude.
D 3
38
[Ост.
JOURNAL OF
The
Wednesday, 5th.-Sir R. Peel has been received
with great attention by the King and by all the
Ministers, who seem very anxious to show civility to
every English notability, whether Whig or Tory.
The King is anxious to conciliate the former as
partisans of the British Ministry, and the latter from
secret sympathy with their political feelings.
long-brewing dissensions with the Swiss cantons, in
which the French Minister, the Duc de Montebello,
has shown little prudence, have at length broken out
into an open rupture, and the relations between the
two countries have been broken off. The French
Government, which truckles to the strong and bullies
the weak, has taken the matter up with a high hand,
and the respective ministers have been recalled. It
will cause much inconvenience to travellers, prove a
hindrance to commerce for the moment, but no ways
implicate the peace of Europe.
Thursday, 6th.—This morning I heard, from what
might appear to be good authority, that the prisoners
at Ham will be immediately released by order of the
Government. Prince Esterhazy and his son came
in the evening, from Neuilly, to Lord Canterbury's,
where I had dined, and he seemed to confirm the
above.
He told me that he was going to resume his post
at St. James's for a few months, and should then
return to Austria to superintend his own private
property, which in itself is a concern of great mag-
nitude. I called upon Lord Lyndhurst, who is just.
arrived in Paris, and who, I think, does not anticipate
the return of the Tories to power so soon as some
1836.]
39
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
others in London. This morning came my old friend
Rokeby from Baden.
The spirit of emigration is not confined to England.
Independent of the families which have flocked from
hence to Algiers, there lately set out from Nancy for
Egypt a little agricultural colony, destined to esta-
blish in the environs of Cairo an experimental farm
upon the plan of that at Roville, under the protec-
tion of the Pacha.
Sunday, 9th. This morning's "Moniteur" con-
tains the proclamation of an amnesty for about sixty
prisoners confined for political offences whose sen-
tence would have lasted for five or eight years
longer it is hoped to be a prelude to that of the
ministers at Ham. It is the commencement of a
wise measure, which, if earlier adopted, would have
prevented much of the disorders which we have
lately witnessed.
:
Monday, 10th. The wet weather has been very
prejudicial to the vineyards in France; it is supposed
that the wines of this year, if not deficient in quan-
tity, will be of a very inferior quality. The Place
de Louis XV. has been encumbered for the last six
months with scaffoldings, masonry work, and steam-
engines to convey the Egyptian pillar, called Cleo-
patra's Needle, from the quay to the pedestal on
which it is to be placed. This stupendous work is
at length achieved, and the pillar will be raised on
its base in a few days; the result will be to place a
very unsightly object, at a most enormous expense,
in the most prominent part of Paris.
Tuesday, 11th.-Lord Lyndhurst called upon mẹ
}
D 4
40
[Ост.
JOURNAL OF
this morning; he said there was no public news nor
any change likely to take place at present. Nobody
takes a more just and sagacious view of affairs. M.
Gabriel Delessert is named Prefet de Paris in the
room of M. Guisquet. Some idea may be formed
of the emoluments of this place by the fact that the
latter, who was appointed only four years ago to this
situation by Casimir Perier, was then not only a
ruined man, but overwhelmed with debt, whereas he
is now clear of the world, and has made a fortune of
two millions of francs. Some time back, when it was
in agitation to rescind the charter of the butchers of
Paris, which gives them great immunities, the prefect,
every morning when he went to his office, found upon
his desk a bank note for 1000 francs, which offering
was continued during several weeks, till they gained
their point.
Torreno, the Spanish liberal and minister of
Christina, is now in Paris, where he will probably
remain, as his return to power at Madrid is next to
impossible. The short interval of his prosperity has
been scrupulously employed in amassing a consider-
able fortune by every means, direct and indirect,
which his official situation could offer to him. After
a long stay in this city, during the latter part of
which he lived entirely with the celebrated Madelle.
Bourgouin, the actress, when the liberal ideas last
broke out in Spain, he returned to his native coun-
try, but his finances were then in so exhausted a
state, that he was indebted to his liberal mistress for
the means of appearing with respectability in the
world; it is said that she gave him a considerable
1836.]
41
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
sum of money. She is now dead; but he has re-
turned with a fortune of six millions, most rapidly
accumulated, which he has settled upon a son whom
she had before he knew her.
Louis-Philippe has received Sir R. Peel with great
apparent confidence, and has professed Tory principles
to him with as much sincerity as he professed Radical
principles to Edward Ellice. His maxim is to sym-
pathise with all. He listens with approbation to
every sentiment and opinion, while his actions are
suited only to his own immediate interest.
Wednesday, 12th.-I walked this morning with
Prince Esterhazy, who was very anxious to know
the particulars of the late news from England,
which, he told me, had made its way all over Ger-
many, as the Princess of Homburg had received the
account in her letters from England.
A great feeling of pity is entertained for Mrs.
whose husband, not content with having dragged
her before the public for his own purposes without
success, now wreaks his petty vengeance on a de-
fenceless woman, by denying her the very necessaries
of life, while he himself remains in the enjoyment
of a lucrative post, which he obtained from the
very person whose name he has made use of to com-
promise her. The accounts from Spain are un-
favourable; the new commander-in-chief, Rodil, has
taken the field without any success.
Friday, 14th.-Met at Mr. Lyon's, where I dined,
Lowther, Lord Reay, and Sir W. Keir Grant. Lord
Reay is an old Scotchman, who inherited an im-
mense and trackless estate in Scotland, which he sold
42
[Ост.
JOURNAL OF
to the Duke of Sutherland for 300,000l.
Sir W. K.
Grant is a general officer, who, in the year 1794,
when serving with Sir Robert Wilson in the 15th
Light Dragoons in Germany, obtained the Cross of
Maria Theresa from the Emperor, for a fortunate
charge which prevented his Imperial Majesty from
being taken prisoner. He lost his arm in a duel on
some occasion early in life, and was himself second
to poor Bob Montgomery above thirty years ago,
who was killed in a duel with Capt. Macnamara at
Chalk Farm.
Sunday, 16th.-There is a curious letter in the
"Gazette des Tribunaux" this morning, written by
Lord Abinger to the General la Ronciere, father of
the
young man whose trial created so much sensa-
tion last year, in which his lordship does not hesitate
to condemn the verdict of the jury, and to acknow-
ledge his conviction, from the proofs before the public,
of the young culprit's innocence. He rests his
opinion on the specimens of the handwriting in the
anonymous letters.*
Tuesday 18th.- The "Moniteur" contains the an-
nouncement that Messrs. Peyronet and Chanteleauze
are released from the castle of Ham and allowed to
* The case of La Ronciére was omitted in the former part of the
"Diary,” where, from the reports flying about at the moment, it
appeared to be erroneously stated.
Lord Abinger's opinion has been so far verified that, at the
request of the Morell family, as well as of the President, M. Ferey,
who held the Tribunal by which Monsieur de la Ronciére had been
condemned, he was liberated from his imprisonment long before the
term expired.
1836.]
43
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
reside, the former in the department of the Gironde,
the latter in that of the Loire. No mention is made
of Prince Polignac or M. Guernon de Ranville, who,
it appears, have not chosen to solicit a government
which they do not recognise.
After great manoeuvres on the part of certain
individuals connected with the Spanish funds, it is
officially announced that the dividends will not be
paid, and the confiding stockholders have been duped
in a most shameless manner with a proffer of security
in the Island of Cuba.
Wednesday, 19th. Lord Fitzgerald made us laugh
at dinner to-day with a story about C, whose
pertinacity of opinion is well known: he was laying
down the law after dinner to the Duke of Wellington,
and according to custom asserting the superiority of
his own information on all subjects, having even
flatly contradicted the Duke, who had mentioned some
incident that took place at the battle of Waterloo.
At last the conversation turned upon the use of
percussion caps for the muskets of the army, when
C― again maintained a directly opposite opinion
to that which was urged by the Duke, who at
last good-humouredly said to him, "My dear C————
I can yield to your superior information on most
points, and you may perhaps know a great deal
more of what passed at Waterloo than myself, but
as a sportsman, I will maintain my point about the
percussion caps." C's view of politics has now
for some years been of the most gloomy cast, and
so far does his wish for infallibility supersede his
patriotism, that he absolutely seems to rejoice at
44
[OCT.
JOURNAL OF
any partial fulfilment of his prophecies, though it
may thwart his own views and that of his party.
Fitzgerald once said to Lord Wellesley at the castle,
"I have had a very melancholy letter from C-
this morning." Aye!" said Lord Wellesley,
"written, I suppose, in a strain of the most sanguine
despondency."
66
Thursday, 20th. The news from Spain is favour-
able to the Carlist cause: Gomez has defeated Esca-
lante near Malaga and has taken and plundered
Cordova; all diplomatic relations between the Court
of Austria and the Cabinet of Madrid have ceased,
and the respective agents have quitted their posts.
Saturday, 22nd.-Saw at the Français" Marie
ou les Trois Epoques," in which Madelle. Mars,
though now at least sixty-five years old, affected
the whole audience. The English papers state that
the members of the Stock Exchange in London are
so indignant at the early information obtained in
certain quarters by pigeon-expresses from Paris,
that they have collected a certain number of hawks,
falcons, and other birds of prey on the Kentish coast
to waylay these carriers. It has not, however,
wholly put a stop to the practice.
Lord Lyndhurst and Yarmouth at dinner at Lord
Hertford's in high force and very jocular. Sir R.
W was also of the party.
Sir R. W. is a character who has made some
noise in the world. He must now be near his grand
climacteric. He entered early into the army, and
was made a knight by the Emperor of Austria, as I
have lately mentioned, in 1794, when serving in the
1836.]
45
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
15th Light Dragoons. He is a man of unquestion-
able courage, but his name is not prominent in any
of our great national victories, as he rather sought
the camp of the partisan, or the staff of foreign
princes. In his political life he has been alternately
Whig, Radical, Bonapartist, and ultra-Tory, not in
shades, but in extremes.
He began by paying great court to George, Prince of
Wales, who never gave him much encouragement; he
then set up as one of his Whig opposers at Brookes's,
and when he came to the throne he continued his
animosity by espousing the part of Queen Caro-
line, till his conduct in exciting the mob to violence
at her funeral became a matter of public investiga-
tion, and ended in his losing his rank in the service.
He outdid his friends the Whigs in violent oppo-
sition to the Tory Government, he became the
Radical member for Southwark, and when from a
misplaced generosity a subscription was raised at
that club to indemnify him for his losses in the cause,
he pocketed the 10,000l. and is now gone over to
his adversaries.
In 1814 he came over to Paris, and was a warm
advocate of Napoleon, although he was then just
arrived from the head-quarters of the Austrian army
in Italy, and during the preceding campaigns in
1812 and 1813 had been attached to the staff of the
Emperor of Russia, with whom he was present at
the battle of Dresden, and was actually engaged in
conversation with General Moreau at the moment
when that ill-fated officer received his death wound.
In 1815, and particularly during the 100 days, he
46
[OCT.
JOURNAL OF
was the bird of ill-omen at Brookes's, the constant
harbinger of bad news, which he propagated as
coming from the most undeniable authority of his
private correspondents abroad. How unfounded they
were, and sometimes prejudicial to his own interest,
may be inferred from the following anecdote, of
which I was myself an eye-witness:- On the day
of that evening, when we received the news of the
great victory at Waterloo, I dined with the present
Lord and Lady Willoughby de Eresby in Piccadilly:
there was a large party, among whom I remember
Miss Mercer (now Madame de Flahault), Sir H.
Cooke, and Sir R. W- who entered the room
with a grave portentous countenance, as if he knew
more than he was willing to communicate. Every
one at that time was in breathless impatience
for the result, and as we proceeded to the dining-
room Miss Mercer inquired of me in a whisper if I
had heard any news, adding that she feared from
Sir R. W―'s manner that some misfortune had
occurred. I felt little alarm at his prognostics, as I
had heard that Rothschild was purchasing stock
largely, and that the funds had risen two per cent.
When the ladies had retired and the wine had
opened Sir R. Ws heart, he condescended to
inform the company, that he had received a private
dispatch from Brussels, announcing the total defeat of
the Anglo-Prussian army by the French, with the ad-
ditional circumstance that Napoleon, after his decided
victory, had supped with the Prince d'Aremberg at
his palace in that city. On doubts being expressed
as to the correctness of his information, he offered
1836.]
47
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
readily to bet any sum on the strength of his dis-
patches. We took him at his word: I betted with
him 4007. or 500l., and others did the same to the
amount of above 10007.
There was a ball that night at Sir George Tal-
bot's; and when I arrived there about eleven o'clock,
I found the whole house in confusion and dismay;
ladies calling for their carriages, and others fainting
in the anteroom, particularly the Ladies Paget, who
seemed in the utmost distress. The mystery, how-
ever, was soon cleared up: Lady Castlereagh had
just made her appearance in the ball-room, with the
official account of the battle, and a partial list of the
killed and wounded, which had caused so much
distress among the various relatives of the sufferers.
She had been at a grand dinner given by Mrs.
Boehm in St. James's Square, to the Prince Regent,
during which Colonel Percy, having first driven to
Carlton House, had arrived in a chaise and four at
the house, and presented to his royal highness at
table, the official dispatches from the Duke of Wel-
lington (recounting his victory), as well as the
French eagles, which he had brought as trophies
with him in the carriage.
Always meddling in some tripotage, we find Sir
R. W-- afterwards in Paris, combining with
Captain Hutchinson to effect the escape of General
Lavallette from prison, which, however chivalrous
he might deem the act, was still an improper inter-
ference in a foreigner, against the laws of a country
which granted him protection. In the same wrong-
headed manner he afterwards courted notoriety by
48
[Ocr.
JOURNAL OF
agitation on behalf of Queen Caroline, still becoming
more Radical in his political creed; but ruined in
fortune, deprived of his military rank, and little re-
spected by his old Whig associates. At length he
turned short round, worshipped the Duke of Wel-
lington and became an ultra-Tory, and, strange as it
may appear, the tide of his fortune has turned with
his politics, though a deserter from the party which
then came into power.
Whether from old recollections on the part of the
Whigs, or from the new support of the Duke, whose
interest at the Horse Guards is always powerful, he
has not only been restored to his rank in the army,
which was in fact an act of justice, but he has also
been presented with a regiment of Light Dragoons,
which he had very little right to expect.
He is prosy in conversation, dogmatic in his
manner, constantly in search of news, and the most
regular gobe mouche that was ever seen.
Tuesday, 25th. This morning the Egyptian obe-
lisk was successfully placed on its pedestal, the
Royal Family presiding over a crowd so numerous,
that a stranger would have conceived that it was
some great national festival. It was also rather
amusing to hear the exclamations against the English,
on the supposition of the envy which we must feel
at this surprising national effort. "Comme ces sacrés
Anglais vont tirer la langue; comme ils vont serrer les
dents." They even went so far as to assert that we
had attempted to cut the ropes of the machinery in
the night, to mar the success of the undertaking!
Don Pio Elisaldi, whom Don Carlos had appointed
1836.]
49
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
his Commissioner to resume the loan opened by
Ouvrard, died on Tuesday, in a fortnight after his
arrival in Paris. The police have seized all his
papers, as we are in a country of liberty.
Friday, 28th.—Rogers the poet is here, and a
regular attendant at all the theatres.
Saturday, 29th.-The news from Spain is alarm-
ing. The Republican party is becoming more vio-
lent. They exclaim against the listlessness of the
Government in putting down the Carlist cause.
They talk of an appeal to the energies of the nation,
and the establishment of a Reign of Terror similar to
that in France in 1793.
I am come to a late but profound conviction that
Horace was right,
"Labitur et labetur in omne volubilis ævum."
Sunday, 30th.-On Wednesday, the 26th, died
Countess Howe at Penn House, in her thirty-seventh
year, leaving a large family of children. She was
the daughter of Earl Cardigan, and one of the Ladies
of the Bedchamber to the Queen. She was an ex-
ample of virtue and piety, and her death is an irre-
parable loss to society.
Dined, for the last time, with Lord Hertford, who
leaves Paris to-morrow morning for Milan, Yar-
mouth, Lord Lyndhurst, and Lowther were of the
party.
Edward Ellice is returned from Canada to Eng-
land.
Monday, 31st. — It is now about a year or more
that a young man, son of the Duc de la R
VOL. III.
E
on
50
[Nov.
JOURNAL OF
quitting the Ecole Polytechnique, got into some
pecuniary difficulties which brought on a quarrel
with his family. Being of a high spirit, and unable
to overcome his annoyance at what had passed on
this untoward occasion, the young man quitted
Paris and his family, determined to seek his fortune
abroad. He went to Spain, joined the army of Don
Carlos, and in this short period, when only twenty
years of age, he is become Commander-in-chief of
the Artillery under that Prince.
Tuesday, Nov. 1st.-An attempt at insurrection has
been made at Strasbourg, by the son of Louis Bona-
parte, ex-King of Holland, assisted by some officers
of the 4th regiment of Artillery. This outbreak,
the leaders of which were made prisoners, will give
Louis-Philippe a pretext for a continued exclusion
of that family from France, and will render the stay
of Madame Murat in Paris, who had obtained per-
mission for six months, unpleasant and precarious.
Wednesday, 2nd. — Another attempt at a military
insurrection has been made at Vendôme, by a few
privates of the 1st regiment of hussars, in garrison
at that place, headed by a brigadier named Bruyant,
who shot a quarter-master through the head, and
then surrendered. It is only remarkable as occur-
ring simultaneously with the other, and proving that
disaffection exists in the army.
The late Countess Howe has left a large family of
children, of which the youngest is only five weeks old.
Her religious principles were very strict: she never
accepted any invitation on a Sunday, but always de-
voted that day to her serious duties. On one occasion
1836.]
51
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
at Windsor, when she was in attendance on the Queen,
some party was proposed by the King on a Sunday, at
which he was very anxious that she should be pre-
sent, but was unable to induce her to deviate from
her fixed plans of seclusion on that day. The Queen,
who was a witness of the discussion, and was sur-
prised at her firmness, could not help saying after-
wards to her, "I wonder at your resolution. I am
sure if the King had been so urgent with me, I could
not have refused." Lady Howe replied, "Madam,
his Majesty is your husband."
She was very handsome, and remarkably tall.
Before her marriage she was one of the beauties
at the balls which the late Earl of Winchilsea used
to give at Burleigh on the Hill every Christmas,
where for several years I was in the habit of joining
a large party at that hospitable mansion; consisting
of the Fieldings, Cardigans, Aboynes, Lord George
Seymour, Sir Jos. Copley, General Bligh, Ambas-
sador Hale, &c. I am referring to the period when
Lord Winchilsea kept open house, and as in those
good old times the horses and even the stable ser-
vants of the guests were hospitably received, I have
seen three or four families staying in the house, each
bringing six or eight horses in their suite, and none,
as in the present day, sent to the neighbouring public
house. Lord Winchilsea was a nobleman of the old
school, and a high-bred gentleman in his manners to
all; in his early youth he was an expert cricketer, and
always retained a great partiality for that game, as
well as all manly exercises. He never married, but
had two natural children, a son and a daughter, to
E 2
52
[Nov.
JOURNAL OF
whom he was much attached, and as the chief part of
his property was unentailed and at his own disposal,
while the title at his decease reverted to Mr. Finch
Hatton, he bequeathed his noble seat of Burleigh on
the Hill, with a large fortune, to his son Mr. Finch.
He was a favourite of George III., by whom he was
made a Knight of the Garter, but having consented
to be second to General Lennox (afterwards Duke of
Richmond) in his duel with the Duke of York, he
incurred the displeasure of the Prince of Wales, who
never forgave him; and after the old king's death he
seldom or never made his appearance at Court.
justice to the Duke of York, I should add, that the
prejudices of his brother only rendered him the more
courteous to Lord Winchilsea; and when, soon after
the duel, at a ball at Court, the Prince of Wales.
indignantly left the room on seeing Lord Winchilsea
dancing in the same set, the Duke did everything in
his power to palliate the insult.
In
The Duke had always a great esteem for his cha-
racter, and though from their different modes of life
they did not often meet, he never failed to express it.
In those days, when H. R. H. was in the habit of
dining frequently with me in Town, I once asked
Lord Winchilsea to meet him, and I was struck by
the cordiality with which he greeted him. The
duel itself, though it originated in the most trivial
circumstance, had well nigh proved fatal, as the ball
of General Lennox carried away one of the curls of
the Duke. Few men, indeed, possessed greater
courage or a kinder heart than the late Duke of
York, or was a more feeling and amiable friend. I
1836.]
53
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
remember calling upon him when we had heard of
the death of his Aide-de-camp, Col. Berkeley: he
was not at home, but as I was going away he drove
up to the door in his curricle, and beckoned me to
come back. I think I see him now, so agitated
that in getting out of the curricle he entangled the
braiding of his pelisse in the hook of the dashing
leather, and if I had not been in time to help him,
would have fallen to the ground.
the library and tried to ask me
into tears. If he had lived to come to the throne, I
should never have been where I am.
When he got into
about it, he burst
Friday, 4th.-Sir W. Knighton died lately in
London. He was originally placed by his parents, who
were of humble origin, as apprentice to an apothecary
at Tavistock, and afterwards practised obscurely in
London. In 1810 he accompanied Lord Wellesley to
Spain, who on his return from that mission requested
his Majesty, the late King, then Prince of Wales, to
appoint Knighton one of his physicians. In this
capacity he became very intimate with Col. Mac-
mahon, and was finally named his executor. Among
the papers which thus came into his possession were
some of a very delicate nature relating to the private
affairs of George IV., particularly about Queen
Caroline and the late Lady Jersey. He instantly
carried these documents to Carlton House, and
placed them at once, without comment or condition,
in the hands of the rightful owner. The Prince
Regent, struck with the importance of the benefit,
appointed Knighton to an important office in the
E 3
54
[Nov.
JOURNAL OF
Duchy of Cornwall, afterwards made him a Baronet,
and then Grand Cross of the Guelph.
The full tide of prosperity now opened upon him,
and after Sir B. Bloomfield had been raised to the
Peerage, and sent as Minister to Sweden, he suc-
ceeded him as private secretary and privy purse,
appointments which he retained till the death of
George IV. He was a constant inmate of Carlton
House and of Windsor Castle, possessing the entire
confidence of his Sovereign, who latterly lived in
great privacy, surrounded by his household, and only
a few occasional visitors. He was, as might be ex-
pected, the devoted friend of Lady, and though
never suspected of having used his interest at Court
for any great objects of personal aggrandisement,
he was believed privy to that extraordinary appro-
priation of above 300,000l., which was sold out of
the Stocks a very few days before the death of his
Royal Master. It was always supposed that this sum
had been given at once to that lady, but the fact of
the sale was currently known at the time, and no
trace of the money afterwards appeared. I have
myself heard the Duke of Wellington say, that
when sent for by express on the demise of the King,
he, in quality of executor, inspected all the papers,
&c. at Windsor, and did not find sufficient money in
the Royal escrutoire even to pay the post-horses of
the different expresses. Sir W. Knighton died pos-
sessed of a very large fortune, partly acquired by his
original profession, and partly perhaps by that poli-
tical information, which had been used for the same
purpose by his predecessor Macmahon.
1836.]
55
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
George IV. never had any private friends: he
selected his confidants from his minions. Macmahon
was an Irishman of low birth and obsequious manners;
he was a little man, his face red, covered with
pimples, always dressed in the blue and buff uniform,
with his hat on one side, copying the air of his
master, to whom he was a prodigious foil, and ready
to execute any commissions, which in those days
were somewhat complicated.
Bloomfield was a handsome man, and owed his
introduction at Court to his musical talents; he was
a Lieutenant in the Artillery, and by chance quar-
tered with his regiment at Brighton. The Prince,
who was always fond of music, then gave frequent
concerts at the Pavilion: some one happened to
mention that a young officer of Artillery was a pro-
ficient on the violoncello; an invitation was sent, the
Royal amateur was pleased, the visits became more
frequent, a predilection ensued, and the fortune of
the young Lieutenant was assured.
George Lee had also a long run of favouritism in
those days, but his confidences were limited to the
turf, and his influence never extended beyond the
stable.
The Prince was at one time a great supporter of
Newmarket; an untoward event, which made great
noise at the time, abated his ardour for that pursuit.
His debts of all sorts were very great. Vulliamy's
bill (a French jeweller in Pall Mall, who served the
Court, and was employed by H.R.H.) amounted to
a large sum, for which he could never obtain pay-
ment. In vain did he apply at Carlton House; he
E 4
56
[Nov.
JOURNAL OF
met with nothing but vague promises, which were
never realised. At length the jeweller's affairs got
so embarrassed, that he determined to make a per-
sonal application to the Prince, and went down to
Brighton. The doors of the Pavilion, however, being
locked against all intruders of that sort, he watched
his opportunity when the Prince's carriage drove
into the court, and, gliding in unobserved, hid him-
self behind one of the pillars of the colonnade. As
the Prince came out, and had got one foot on the
step, Vulliamy rushed forward, and, falling on his
knees, cried out, "Sare, Your Royal Highness, pray
stop one minute." The Prince looked round, and
said, rather impatiently, "Vulliamy, what do you
want?" "Oh Sare, by God, if your Royal High-
ness not pay my bill, I shall be in your father's
bench to-morrow." The Prince laughed and got
into his carriage, but the debt was left unpaid till
Parliament furnished the means.
He once fancied that he was very fond of hunting,
and took a place in Hampshire for that purpose,
called the Grange; but he soon wearied of it, and
relapsed into his usual mode of indolent existence.
For years even before he came to the throne, he
very seldom appeared in public, or went anywhere,
but to Manchester House, where his visits were as
regular as clockwork. At four o'clock the gates of
Carlton House were opened daily, and the plain
vis-à-vis with the grey liveries, and the purple blinds
down, was to be seen wending its way through the
* Now belonging to Lord Ashburton.
1836.]
57
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
crowd to its usual destination, unremarked by any
but the experienced eye, which knew the royal in-
cognito, and the superb bay horses unequalled in
London.
In the latter days of his reign, and before his
health had rendered it necessary, he very seldom
went out, even in his favourite low phaeton and
ponies, at Windsor; his more general habit was to
remain in his robe de chambre all the morning, and
never dress till the hour of dinner. In this dis-
habille he received his ministers, inspected the ar-
rangement of all the curiosities which now adorn the
gallery in the Castle, and are standing monuments
of his good taste, amused himself with mimicking
Jack Radford, the stud groom, who came to receive
orders, or lectured Davison, the tailor, on the cut of
the last new coat. His dress was an object of the
greatest attention to the last; and, incredible as it
may appear, I have been told by those about him,
and by Bachelor, who, on the death of the Duke of
York, entered his service as valet de chambre, that a
plain coat, from its repeated alterations, would often
cost 3007. before it met his approbation. This, of
course, included the several journies of the master
and his men backwards and forwards to Windsor, as
they almost lived on the road. George IV. was not
only a man of refined manners and classical taste,
but he was endowed by nature with a very good
understanding; still there is no doubt that for
several years before his death, whether from early
indulgence in luxury, or from a malady inherent in
his family, his mind would occasionally wander, and
58
[Nov.
JOURNAL OF
many anecdotes have been current of the unfortunate
impressions under which he laboured. After the
glorious termination of the long Continental War in
1815 by the battle of Waterloo, it would not per-
haps be unpardonable vanity in him to have thought
that the English nation had mainly contributed to
this great event; but he certainly at times in con-
versation arrogated to himself, personally, the glory
of subduing Napoleon's power, and giving peace to
the world. It was upon one of these assumptions
being reported to the sarcastic Sheridan, that he
archly remarked, "That is all well enough, but what
he particularly piques himself upon is the last pro-
ductive harvest.”
When a clergyman was once preaching upon
death before Louis XIV. and his Court at Ver-
sailles, at a particular part of his sermon he addressed
his audience in the following words, "Nous mour-
rons tous," and then turning to the King, added,
"presque tous." That monarch afterwards reproved
him for his senseless sycophancy. It might have
been more palateable at Windsor. No man clung
to life with greater eagerness than George IV., or
was more unwilling to hear from those about him
any hint or suspicion of his apparent decay. When
confined to his room, and his case had become evi-
dently hopeless, he still felt the vital stamina so
strong in him, that he would not believe his own
danger; he talked of preparations for the approach-
ing Ascot Races, which he would attend in person,
and showed a confidence in his recovery, which all
around him knew to be impossible.
1836.]
59
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
On the 27th of May, 1830, prayers were ordered
to be read in the churches for the restoration of the
King's health; and though the work of death was
gradually approaching, the most contradictory ac-
counts were constantly circulated of his real state. At
length the awful moment arrived. He went to bed,
without any particular symptom, on the night of the
25th of June, but at three o'clock in the morning he
seemed to awake in great agitation, and called for
assistance. Sir Wathen Waller, who was in attend-
ance, came to his bedside, and at his request helped
to raise him from his bed. He then exclaimed,
Watty, what is this? It is death! They have
deceived me!" and in that situation, without a
struggle, expired.
CC
The temptations in his exalted situation to a life
of indulgence were numerous; but he was not with-
out a proper sense of religious feeling, as may be
inferred from the following anecdote. Some years
previously to his own death an old housekeeper
at Windsor Castle, who had held that situation
for near half a century, died very much regretted
by the Royal Family and the whole establishment.
On that occasion he sent for his chaplain, Sumner,
now Bishop of Winchester, and urged him to im-
prove the feeling excited in the household by the
occurrence into a religious admonition: he concluded
by saying that he wished him to preach an appro-
priate sermon in the chapel on the following Sunday,
and requested that he would take the following text,
"Be ye also ready." The sermon was preached
accordingly.
60
[Nov.
JOURNAL OF
Saturday, 5th.-The reception of Lord and Lady
Londonderry by the Emperor of Russia at St.
Petersburg and at Moscow has been of a very
marked character, and studiously made independent
of the usual introduction through the English Am-
bassador. Nicholas has wished to show that the
nomination of Lord Londonderry by the Duke's
Government would have been highly agreeable to
him, though countermanded by the Whigs; and with-
out doing anything that could give offence to Lord
Durham, he has openly shown as much firmness and
decision in the reception of the Marquis as he did in
the rejection of Sir S. Canning.
Sunday, 6th.-The mutineers at Strasbourg are
to be tried by the Cour d'Assises. It will be thought
politic to allow the young Prince Bonaparte to escape
any serious punishment. It is amusing to remark
the different ways in which the different parties in
France pretend to interpret this affair according to
their own feelings. The Carlists look upon it as
arising from the confusion of ideas produced by the
Revolution of 1830, and will not allow of any com-
parison between the position of the Duchess de Berry
and that of Louis Napoleon. The Republicans see
in it an evident demonstration that, sooner or later,
their hopes will be realised; and the doctrinaires,
with some plausibility on their side, hail the result
as a proof of the solidity of their government.
Parties, however, can learn nothing: the march
of events finds them motionless and insensible to the
changes which pass around them. Mankind is always
1836.]
61
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
the same; and history, though useful as a record, has
been written in vain as a lesson.
Monday, 7th. The Court of Cassation was opened
to-day after the recess, and a very interesting speech
was made by the Procureur-General, Dupin, in
which he alludes to the honourable life of their pre-
decessor the Chancelier de l'Hôpital, who was born
under the reign of Louis XII., and finished his mortal
career under that of Charles IX., the year after the
St. Bartholomew, 1573, having left an example of
piety, simplicity, and honourable conduct as magis-
trate, which has never been surpassed and seldom
imitated. The description of the Chancellor's pur-
suits in his modest retirement at Vigny, his classical
studies, and his literary correspondence, were touched
with great effect, and the purity of his mind was
proved by quotations from his Latin epistles to the
Cardinal Jurone.
“Sed mihi nulla sacris conferri scripta videntur
Posse libris, non est ubi mens humana quiescat
Suavius, et portum inveniat secura malorum.”
Then, again, the simplicity of his country establish-
ment, -
"Cultus erit mensæ non rusticus; urbe salinum
Argento factum, veniens huc extulit uxor,
Et secum referet."
And when he looks back to his early days of study in
the law, before the more weighty cares of state op-
pressed his mind,
"Scilicet ex quo
Publica jampridem tractare negotia cœpi
His mihi sum visus solis vixisse diebus."
This Court of Cassation is an institution which
62
[Nov.
JOURNAL OF
we do not possess in England. It receives appeals
from judgments in the other Courts, and either con-
firms or annuls the sentence, as it appears conform-
able to the spirit of the Code, without any reference
to the facts of the evidence.
Tuesday, 8th.-The troops of Don Carlos have
laid siege to Bilbao; but it is reported that young
La Rochefoucauld has been killed.
It might well be asked by a stranger, why, when
murder is punished with death by the law in France,
and when so many murders are really committed in
the country, there are so few executions? The jury
are continually bringing in their verdict of guilty
with extenuating circumstances, which saves the life
of the culprit: though on reading over the evidence,
it is often impossible to find the least circumstance
which could tend to extenuate the crime. In the
"Gazette des Tribunaux,” I find the following in-
stance this morning of a trial before the Cour d'Assises
de la Greuze.
Louis Beauchamp is a married man with two
children. He was himself a bad character, suspected
of many robberies, committed in houses where he had
been employed as carpenter, but living peaceably
with his wife, at least, apparently so to the world.
This man, about a year and a half ago, formed an
improper intimacy with a girl in the village, named
Marie Guillard, about nineteen years of age, whom
he seduced; and from that time his absences from
home were frequent, and his return marked by vio-
lence and ill-humour, which his wife always endured
with the greatest patience and resignation.
1836.]
63
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
It was after this period that he conceived the idea
of destroying his wife, who was about to become a
mother for the third time. Preparatory to his crime,
and with a view of diverting the attention of his
neighbours from any suspicions injurious to himself,
he announced publicly that he had consulted a for-
tune-teller, who had foretold the death of his wife
during her approaching confinement. To some other
friends he was more communicative, and vaguely
hinted at his own dark intentions, as well as his
project of afterwards marrying Marie Guillard. When
his wife was brought to bed, he bought some arsenic,
and, after two attempts to poison her, which were
frustrated by the care of the monthly nurse, he at
last found an opportunity of infusing the poison in
some soup which was prepared for her use.
poor woman died and was buried; but suspicions
arose in the neighbourhood, the corpse was disinterred
by order of the police, and ample proof afforded of his
crime in the autopsy. The only way to account for
the sentence of the Jury, after an hour's deliberation,
Coupable, avec des circonstances attenuantes,”
is, that a certain number of Judges in France are
sworn not to condemn to death.
"C
He was sentenced to the galleys for life.
The
Wednesday, 9th.-Baron Vincent, an officer of the
Empire, with whom I dined at Mr. Lyon's, talked
much of the Bonaparte family, and denied the truth
of many of the anecdotes in the Memoirs of Madame
d'Abrantes.
Thursday, 10th.-Mr. C. d'Aragon is a young
man of twenty-six or twenty-seven, son of a peer of
64
[Nov.
JOURNAL OF
France, with little fortune, but of good talents and
accomplished. Two months ago he was married to
Madlle. Visconti Trivulzi, the sister of the Princess
Belgiojoso, who is rich, but not handsome. He
always appeared to enjoy good health; but a few
weeks previous to his marriage he suffered from a
violent headache, and in a thoughtless moment he
prescribed for himself the extraordinary remedy of
placing his head under the pump in the courtyard,
and ordering his servant to immerse it with the cold
water.
The shock was so great, that it brought on a
feverish attack, which was hardly cured when his
marriage took place.
Since that event, the disorder has returned with
double force. He is now seized with raving delirium
every twenty-four hours. He is reduced to a skeleton
in this short period, and little hopes are entertained
of his recovery.
As soon as the news of the affair at Strasbourg
arrived in Paris, a guard was placed at the residence
of the Countess Lipano (Madame Murat) in the
Rue Royale, and her departure was ordered in six
days; but when her total ignorance of the plot was
completely acknowledged, all restrictions were taken
off, and she is now left at liberty to prolong her stay,
and prosecute the object of her journey, which relates
to some legal proceedings here, resulting from the
will of her late mother, Madame Mère.
She has not preserved much fortune from the
wreck of her transitory throne, nor does she find
1836.]
65
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
much support in the gratitude of those "whom her
former bounty fed."
I yesterday heard the General M-, whose wife
was one of her dames d'honneur at Naples, when
asked if he had been to pay his respects to his former
queen, reply thus, "Nous attendons sa visite, c'est
alors que nous y penserons.
>>
Notwithstanding the distracted state of the Penin-
sula, the English and French Governments are going
on in that enviable state of repose during the recess,
which the absence of all Parliamentary wrangling
renders so dear to Ministers; but the hour of anxiety
approaches. The Belgian Deputies met this week;
and in two little months the French Chambers and
the English Parliament will again let loose the dogs
of political warfare. The grand struggle at home
will begin again; war to the knife between Whigs
and Tories, while the Radical power bides its time,
anxious to aggravate the dissensions, in the hope to
destroy both.
Friday, 11th.-All the hopes of a marriage be-
tween the King of Naples and a Princess of the
house of Orleans are extinguished by a letter of the
1st instant from Vienna, which announces that on
the preceding day the Prince de Salerno had demanded,
in the name of the King of the Two Sicilies, the
hand of the Archduchess Theresa, daughter of the
Archduke Charles. The Emperor has given his con-
sent to this union.
*
*
*
*
*
is a good-natured, was a very good-looking,
man, not overflowing with intellect, but still far from
VOL. III.
F
66
[Nov.
JOURNAL OF
deserving the sarcastic comment of the late Lord
Dudley. It was at a time when poor Dudley's mind
was on the wane, when his caustic humour would
still find vent through the cloud which was gradually
overshading his masterly intellect; he was sitting in
his room, unheeding those around him, and soliloquiz-
ing aloud, as was so often his custom. His favourite
Newfoundland dog was at his side, who seemed to
engross the whole of his attention. At length, pat-
ting his head, he exclaimed, "Fido mio, they say dogs
have no souls. Humph.
And still they say
has a soul!" Upon one occasion Dudley found
Allen at White's about seven o'clock, and asked him
to dinner. On his arrival in Park Lane, he found it
was a tête-à-tête with the host. When in the evening
he was asked how the dinner went off, Allen said,
"Lord Dudley spoke a little to his servant, and a
great deal to his dog, but said nothing to me."
There has been great mystery attached to an acci-
dent which befell the Emperor of Russia lately on
his journey through the southern provinces of his
dominions, and a report has been prevalent that an
attempt was made to assassinate him on the road, by
a conspirator, who wounded him in the shoulder with
a pistol shot. Thus far is certain, that the Grand
Duke Michael, who was then at Frankfort, received.
an express, with the news that the Emperor had been
overturned in his carriage, by which accident his
shoulder was dislocated, but his health was unim-
paired. Coupled with this account was the strict
order to send without delay expresses to every Court
in Europe, with this precise version of the affair. The
anxiety to give the news this publicity, and the
1836.]
6.7
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
eagerness with which all the Russian attachés con-
tradict the other report, only tend to increase the
suspicions. In any other country the truth would
soon be manifest, but in that dark abode of ignorance
and despotism the tale is more difficult to unravel.
Saturday, 12th. The successes of Gomez con-
tinue in Spain, and the ability with which he avoids
a general engagement with Rodil, must tend to
prove that either he is a consummate tactician, or
the other a consummate traitor.
The Duchess of St. Leu (La Reine Hortense) is
arrived in France. She quitted Arenenberg on re-
ceiving the first intelligence of the arrest of her son.
Accompanied by Madame de Salvage, she travelled
in a carriage and with a passport procured by that
lady, but stopped at the Château de Viry, belonging
to Madame de Raguse. Madame de Salvage con-
tinued her journey to Paris, and proceeded forthwith
to the President of the Council. Great was the
surprise of Count Molé on learning that the Queen
Hortense was in France, but he had no hesitation in
charging Madame de Salvage to assure the queen
that the prince her son should not be brought to trial.
With regard to Madame de Salvage herself, the
minister enjoined her to lose no time in leaving the
capital. In vain she alleged that she was commis-
sioned to settle various affairs of interest for the
queen. The minister remained inflexible. Orders
were given for fresh passports, and she is now pro-
bably on her way to join the queen, who, before
three days are expired, will again have left the
French territory.
x 2
68
[Nov.
JOURNAL OF
Sunday, 13th. Mr. Green's monster balloon
ascended on Monday last from Vauxhall Gardens
with himself and two friends, passed over Dover at
five in the evening, crossed the Channel about two
miles to the westward of Calais, and continuing its
voyage during the whole of that night, descended at
seven in the morning near the village of Weilburg
in Nassau, about forty miles from Frankfort S. W.
In the short space of seventeen hours the balloon
traversed a space of 480 miles.
Monday, 14th. - Prince Louis-Bonaparte was on
Thursday escorted from his prison at Strasbourg to
the port of L'Orient, where a ship of war will, imme-
diately on his arrival, sail with him for America.
He passed through Paris on Saturday evening.
An event, which seven years ago would have
created a great sensation in France, has just taken
place without attracting any attention. The tele-
graph this morning has announced that Charles X.
died on the 6th instant, at Goritz, in Styria, of an
inflammation of the bowels, in the eightieth year of
his age. The Duc d'Angoulême is sixty-one, the
Duc de Bordeaux sixteen. Few lives have been
chequered with such vicissitudes. Born and educated
in the luxurious court of his grandfather Louis XV.,
the Comte d'Artois was the gayest votary of dissi-
pation during the short reign of his brother Louis
XVI., then for twenty-two years a houseless wan-
derer on the face of the earth. Fortune smiled
again, his shorn honours were revived, and in 1814
as Monsieur, he became the first subject in France;
in 1824 he succeeded to the throne, from which,
1836.]
69
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
after a reign of six years, a perhaps well-meaning
but ill-judged policy drove him again into exile,
where his last days have been as devoted to the
duties of religion, as his early days were dedicated
to folly and dissipation.
When the account of the death of the Emperor
Napoleon at St. Helena was made known at the
Court of the Bourbons, the Countess De Noailles *
then dame d'atours to the Duchess De Berry, was
at an evening party given by Louis XVIII. Gene-
ral Rapp, who was also present, overcome by the
intelligence, was unable to restrain his feelings, and
in an instant saw himself deserted by all the cour-
tiers near him, who were terrified at the idea of being
supposed to share the grief of the old follower of
Napoleon. The Countess De Noailles, who had
known General Rapp at the Court of the Empire,
immediately crossed the room alone in front of the
Court, and pressing the General's hand, accompanied
him to the door, with such a frank and dignified
sympathy that the Dauphine herself came forward
to meet Madame De Noailles, and taking that lady's
hand, in her turn, observed, with the abrupt sincerity
that characterised her, that she would have done the
same in her place.
Tuesday, 15th.-The question whether the Court
should go into mourning for Charles X. was debated
yesterday in the Council, but as the members could
not agree, it was deferred.
Professor Zalm has recently discovered at Pompeii
* Now Duchesse De Poix.
F 3
70
[Nov.
JOURNAL OF
a table service in silver, comprising forty-four plates,
one large dish, three small vessels, two spoons, and
four forks of admirable workmanship. They are all
in very good preservation, and were sent to the
royal family at Portici.
The following phenomenon was observed lately at
Gluckstadt on the Elbe. During the continuance
of twelve hours the tide of that river neither rose
nor fell, the waters remained constantly at the same
level, and the ships at anchor, instead of turning as
usual at the flux and reflux, remained immoveable.
Some persons attribute this to an earthquake in
some distant country, as the same thing happened
on the 1st November 1755, the day of the great
earthquake at Lisbon.
Wednesday, 16th.-I had a letter from the Duc
de Gramont in which he says, "Charles X. died of
an inflammation in the bowels, brought on by a fit
of gout, to which he was subject; he suffered little
and was still perfectly well on the 5th instant. A
letter from the doctor who attended him has brought
this information, and the Government was not aware
of it till twenty-four hours after it was known to the
Comité Royaliste in the faubourg."
Thus Louis-Philippe has a committee of Royalists
sitting under his very nose.
A remarkable circumstance in the career of
Charles X. was, that he was the only sovereign of
the Capet race who entered his 80th year. From
the time of Hugh Capet in 937 to that of Charles
X., both reigns included, 36 sovereigns (Napoleon
amongst the number) occupied the throne of France
1836.]
71
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
during a period of 843 years; consequently the
duration on an average of each reign amounts to
23 years 5 months. The number of years comprised
in the lives of these 36 sovereigns being about 864,
the average duration of each life amounts to 51 years
9 months and 10 days. The average duration of
individual life amounts only to 33 years. One of
the above-mentioned sovereigns, however, John I.,
lived only a few days. Another, Francis II., lived
less than 20 years. Three lived less than 30 years,
Louis X., Charles VIII., and Charles IX. Four
lived less than 40 years, Philip V., Charles IV.,
Henry III., and Louis XVI. Seven lived upwards
of 40 years, Louis VIII., Philip III., Philip IV.,
John II., Charles V., Henry II., and Louis XIII.
Ten lived upwards of 50 years, Hugh Capet, Henry
I., Philip Augustus, Louis IX., Philip VI., Charles
VI., Charles VII., Louis XII., Francis I., and
Napoleon. Seven died at the age of 60, Robert,
Philip I., Louis le Gros, Louis VII., Louis II.,
Henry IV., and Louis XV. Two lived beyond 70
years, Louis XIV., who was upwards of 77 when
he died, and Louis XVIII., who had passed his
70th year. Charles X. exceeded the average dura-
tion of life by nearly 47 years.
Thursday, 17th.-The following florid oration
was made yesterday before the Tribunal Correction-
nel, by a poor woman, who had been deluded with a
promise of marriage from a married man. Let her
tell her own tale
"J'étois portière Rue Gaillon No. 3., fort heureuse
dans ma petite loge, ne songéant pas certainement
T 4
72
[Nov.
JOURNAL OF
que mon petit mobilier put faire envie à personne.
Vous frémirez, Messieurs, en apprenant à combien
d'odieuses manoeuvres je fus en butte de la part du
scélérat, que je dévoue ici à la justice divine et
humaine.
"M. Herigoyen, que son uniforme devoit recom-
mander à ma confiance, s'insinua dans ma loge par
d'agréables propos, et des romans, qu'il me prétoit,
pour charmer mes loisirs, et me troubler l'imagination.
Bref; je quittai ma loge, mon paisible cordon, mes
petites habitudes, la paix de ma demeure, pour aller
Rue Mauconseil, avec le garde municipal, qui m'avoit
amenée là en me promettant le mariage. Le jour
même de l'installation, il se jetta à mes genoux, me
disant, 'Je suis un misérable, je ne puis t'épouser
légitimement, par la raison que je suis dans le joug
de l'hymenée, avec une femme légitime que je
déteste; au reste, comme il n'est pas possible.'.
Naturellement moi, je fonds en larmes, voyant le
précipice où l'erreur m'avoit conduite.
Lui me
console, me mène chez un huissier de ses amis, où
l'homme de loi redige une promesse de mariage con-
ditionnelle qu'il s'engageoit à réaliser, aussitôt après
la mort de la créature exécrée, à laquelle étoit unie.
sa destinée. Je m'y fie, infortunée que je suis. Il
s'impatronise dans mon local, et quelques jours après,
rentrant chez moi, je trouve tout déménagé. J'ai
appris que sa légitime l'a assisté dans ce pillage,
d'où il resulte que je les enveloppe tous les deux
dans la même plainte."
The husband and wife are condemned to three
months' imprisonment, and 300 fr. damages to the
plaintiff.
1836.]
73
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Friday, 18th.-The siege of Bilbao is carried on
by the Carlists with vigour, notwithstanding a large
force under Espartero is arrived in the neighbour-
hood, and reinforcements have been thrown into the
town.
Evans's legion remains within their works at
St. Sebastian, which they cannot leave their General
has written to his constituents at Westminster, that
he shall come to resume his seat in Parliament soon
after the meeting, adding, with most ineffable assur-
ance, that the cause of Don Carlos was utterly hope-
less.
*
*
*
The French expression, "Il n'y a rien de nouveau
que ce qui a été oublié," was exemplified yesterday
in a bon mot cited on M. de
a great coxcomb,
of whom it was said that he was "le plus heureux
des hommes: il est fort amoureux de lui-même et n'a
point de rivaux." In the time of the Romans, Cicero
classes Pompey among those who are sui amantes sine
rivali.
Whatever may be the decision of the Court, the
old families in the faubourg St. Germain will go
into six months' mourning for Charles X.
Last week died at Kensington Viscount Forbes,
eldest son of Earl Granard, aged fifty-two. He had
been long in a declining state, which had lately
terminated in lunacy. In former years I lived in
much intimacy with him, meeting constantly at Lady
Sarah Bayly's house. He was a great friend of the
late Tom Sheridan and Moore the poet, a very amiable
unaffected character, and much liked in the world. In
1812 he was made one of the king's aides-de-camp,
and at the period of his death was a general in the
74
[Nov.
JOURNAL OF
army, and M. P. for Longford in Ireland, where the
family estates are situated.
Saturday, 19th. There has been sad confusion
at Lisbon. The Queen, in conjunction with Palmella
and the late Ministry, has attempted a coup-d'état,
and proclaimed afresh Don Pedro's charter of 1826,
hoping that the large English naval force assembled
in the Tagus would intimidate the liberal party.
But a few days sufficed to prove the inefficacy of
a project which had neither been planned with
prudence nor supported by force. The national
guards and the populace declared afresh for the
constitution of 1820. Several assassinations were
committed, the late minister José Freiri was mur-
dered in his carriage, on his way to court; and though
a considerable body of marines were landed from the
English fleet, ostensibly to protect the Queen's person,
the royalist party was obliged to treat for terms with
the people. The first conditions were that the
English marines should be re-embarked, which being
complied with, the new fabric was soon demolished,
and the liberal ministers reinstated at the head of
the government. Two English 74 gun ships had
been anchored opposite to the palace, and under one
pretext or another the force had been increased to
ten ships of the line. The Marquis of Palmella, the
Duke of Terceira, and a crowd of others, took refuge
on board the fleet, which by its appearance only
aggravated the populace, and though quite sufficient
to have supported the royalist cause, was not allowed
to act by Lord Howard de Walden, who was fearful
of compromising his government.
1836.]
75
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
The case of has taken a most decided turn
against him in London, even amongst his most inti-
mate friends, who first strained every nerve to support
him. When I talk of friends, I talk perhaps of a
society in which the word friendship may be supposed
to be little understood and seldom practised. Fitz-
patrick, the companion of Fox and Sheridan, and of
all the wits of that day, described the London world
in one sarcastic stanza,
"Whate'er they promised or professed
In disappointment ends-
In short, there's nothing I detest
So much as all my friends.”
But in leagues of pleasure, and intimacies proceed-
ing from similarity of disposition and pursuits, habits
and associations are hard to break, and when these
are supported by wealth and rank, it is a strong case
indeed that can dissolve them.
Monday, 21st.-A funeral service, in honour of
Charles X., was celebrated on the 12th instant at
Vienna, in the church of the palace; and the Em-
peror and Empress, with the whole Court in mourn-
ing, were present. Another funeral service will
also be celebrated with great pomp at the Cathedral.
The two Court theatres remained closed. Here, not
a single tribute of respect has been shown to his
memory.
The young Prince Bonaparte has been shipped
from L'Orient for the United States on board the
Andromède. His mother, Hortense, left Viry on
the 12th, by order of the Government, and is arrived
76
[Nov.
JOURNAL OF
at Arenenberg in the Thurgau. An attempt was
made to seize her papers by M. de Belleval, but the
Government of Thurgau opposed it.
The Earl of Winchilsea is to marry Miss Bagot,
the maid of honour, and daughter of Sir Charles
Bagot. His first wife was Lady Georgiana Graham,
daughter of the Duke of Montrose. He must be
thirty years older than his bride.
There is great commercial distress in the United
States, arising from speculation in lands, overtrading
in commerce, and the transfer of the surplus funds
under the recent Act of Congress, preparatory to a
distribution among the several States. Interest has
risen to 3 per cent. per month.
This has acted
seriously on the London money market, and produced
great embarrassment in the finances, which Spring
Rice* seems totally unable to cope with.
On Sunday the order was signed for the liberation
of Prince Polignac and M. Guernon de Ranville
from their prison at Ham. Count Appony told me
this evening that the Prince had set out immediately
for Munich, where he has some relations, and from
thence would proceed to Goritz.
Count† and Countess Appony were in deep mourn-
ing for Charles X.
Marshal Lobau publicly said yesterday, " On ne
peut pas commander un deuil général, parceque cela
deplairoit à la Garde Nationale." I mentioned this
to Count A., who replied, "C'est une raison comme
une autre."
* Then Chancellor of Exchequer, now Lord Monteagle.
† Father of the present Ambassador at St. James's.
1836.]
77
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Wednesday, 23rd. There is at this moment living
in Paris a Mr. Spurrier, who came to London some
years back, was not much known in the world, but
became a member of Graham's Club.
Now, this Graham's Club is a sort of second-rate
establishment, notorious for the incessant play which
is going on by day and by night, frequented generally
by men who have no other pursuit in life than gam-
bling, and here and there by a few gentlemen in
society, who are more anxious, like, to gratify
that passion than to be over nice in their associates.
Mr. Spurrier fell at once into the hands of the
spoiler. He lost everything to the last shilling, and
gave up his landed estate* to the winners to be sold
for their benefit. This man is now living here in
the greatest poverty.
*
*
*
*
Thursday, 24th.- Met Heneage and Caradoc† at
Aston's, where I dined. Sate with the latter after
they were gone till three o'clock in the morning,
talking over anecdotes of the late reign in England.
An individual was mentioned whom we all knew
formerly as attaché to this Embassy, and who had
fallen under the suspicion of influencing Fortune at
play. One day he was sitting in 's room at
Rio, playing at écarté with some French naval officers
who had dined there. It was at a time when fre-
quent riots were taking place in that city. Suddenly
a volley of musketry was heard under the window.
Every one jumped up to inquire what was the
* It sold for 28,000l.
† Now Lord Howden.
78
[Nov.
JOURNAL OF
matter except our friend, who, perfectly regardless
of the disturbance, continued to deal out the cards;
and when all the backs were turned to him, coolly
exclaimed, "Gentlemen, I beg you all to remark
that I have turned up the king." His adversary re-
turned to his game, and found our friend with five
trumps in his hand.
Friday, 25th.-It is likely that Parliament will
meet this year earlier than usual. The financial
wheel is out of order, stocks are declining, and pro-
visions rising. The boasted tide of prosperity seems
inclined to ebb; and if these symptoms should in-
crease, our Whig Cabinet may not find their task so
smooth and easy as it has hitherto been. When
the mass is happy and contented, few people wish to
quarrel with their rulers, be they who they may; but
when the shoe begins to pinch, they are always the
first, whether right or wrong, to bear the blame.
Our foreign policy with Turkey, Spain, and Portugal
will also give ample scope for Lord Palmerston's
ingenuity.
Saturday, 26th.-In the Gazette des Tribunaux
of this morning are recorded two verdicts, which
simultaneously prove the partiality of justice here.
M. Verteuil de Feuillas, editor of the paper called
“La France,” is prosecuted by the Government for
inserting a letter from Goritz in which the Duke and
Duchess d'Angoulême are styled King and Queen.
He is sentenced to three months' imprisonment and
a fine of 300 fr.
A drunken soldier named Gaspard seeks a quarrel
with some inoffensive passengers in the street, and
1836.]
79
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
without any provocation gives to one a cut across the
face with his sabre; and when arrested by another,
in order to bring him to justice, bites his finger to
the bone, with the malice of a demon.
His only
plea before the military court is intoxication, and he
is instantly acquitted by a majority of voices and sent
back to his corps.
One of the witnesses even was
rather reprimanded for giving evidence against the
soldier, as in a previous interview with the colonel
of the 41st regiment that officer had said to him,
"Eh bien, mon ami, est ce que vous voulez faire
arriver de la peine à ce militaire ?”
The inference to be drawn from these two verdicts
is this, that the slightest whisper against the power
of Louis-Philippe is punished severely, while the
military, who support that power, are flattered and
cajoled by an undue laxity. I have frequently ob-
served in any rixe which may occur between the
bourgeois and the soldier, the marked partiality
which is shown to the latter.
Tuesday, 29th. We have the most extraordinary
weather for this time of year. It is mild as in spring,
with frequent rain, and violent gales on the coast.
*
*
*
*
*
Wednesday, 30th.— Amongst the expiring wits
and beaux of high life, I can just recollect, when I
was a boy, the famous George Selwyn, whose name
is now nearly forgotten, but whose bon-mots then
were in every one's mouth. He had a peculiarity so
grafted in his nature, that it might be called a
passion,—this was an irrepressible desire to see public
executions. On one occasion of some particular
80
[Nov.
JOURNAL OF
culprit being executed at Tyburn, a friend, who
knew his foible, betted him 100 guineas that he
would be present at the ceremony; he accepted the
bet, and was discovered in the crowd, in the dress of
an old apple-woman, and paid the money. During
the period which followed the rebellion in 1746, he
had attended the execution of Lord Balmerino at the
Tower, and when reproached with cruelty, in wit-
nessing the death of one whom he had personally
known, he exculpated himself by pleading his foible,
and adding, that if he had erred in going to see
Lord Balmerino's head cut off, he had afterwards
made every reparation in his power, by going the
next day to see the head sewed on again, previous to
the interment. When in Paris, his anxiety was so
great to see a famous malefactor broke upon the
wheel, that he hit upon a curious expedient. Upon
great occasions of this sort (I think it was that of
Damiens), the head executioner of Paris was wont
to invite his comrades from the provinces, to assist
at this specimen of their art. Selwyn contrived
early to be near the scaffold, and when the provincial
artists made their appearance, he joined their party
at the bar through which they were admitted; the
first was announced as Monsieur De Lyons, then
Monsieur De Bordeaux, &c., but when it came to
Selwyn's turn, the attendant, seeing he was an Eng-
lishman, said in an inquiring tone, "Monsieur De
Londres?" to which Selwyn bowed assent, and
mounted the scaffold in the character of the English
Jack Ketch.
After Prince Boothby's death, who shot himself
1836.]
81
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
in his room, because he was tired of dressing and un-
dressing, but more, I believe, from ruined circum-
stances, the only remnant of that school, who to a
much later period was seen in the streets of London,
was old blue Hanger, Lord Coleraine, a beau of the
first water, always beautifully powdered, in a light
green coat, with a rose in his button-hole. He had not
much wit or talent, but affected the vieille cour, and
the manners of the French Court: he had lived a
good deal in Paris before the Revolution, and used
always to say," that the English were a very good
nation, but they positively knew not how to make
anything but a kitchen poker." I remember many
years ago the Duchess of York made a party to go
by water to Richmond, in which Coleraine was in-
cluded. We all met at a given hour at Whitehall
Stairs, and found the Admiralty barge, with the
Royal Standard, ready to receive us; but by some
miscalculation of the tide, it was not possible to em-
bark for near half an hour, and one of the watermen
said to the Duchess, "Your Royal Highness must
wait for the tide." Upon which Coleraine, with a
very profound bow, remarked, "If I had been the
tide, I should have waited for your Royal Highness.
Nothing could have been more stupid, but there
was something in the manner in which it was said
that made every one burst out a laughing.
Much of Brummell's affectation of vieille cour was
gleaned from these old remnants of French manners,
as he had never been out of England till he left it for
ever; but he imitated well, did it with good taste,
and it certainly gave a tone to the manners of the
VOL. III.
G
""
82
[Nov.
JOURNAL OF
young men of that age, which has since declined
among their successors.
Of the same school was also the late Lord Chol-
mondeley, always a great friend of George IV., who
raised him to the Marquisate: he was a great
frequenter of French society before the Revolution.
He was one of the four who set up that celebrated
Faro bank at Brookes's which ruined half the town.
They would not trust the waiters to be croupiers, but
themselves dealt the cards alternately, being paid
three guineas an hour out of the joint fund, and at
this rate Lord C, and other noblemen of the
highest rank, were seen slaving like menials till a
late hour in the morning. Their gains were
enormous, as Mr. Thompson of Grosvenor Square,
and Lord Cholmondeley, realised each between
300,000l. and 400,000l. Tom Stepney had a share,
but would always punt against his own partners, and
lost on one side what he gained on the other. A
Mr. Paul, who brought home a large fortune from
India, lost 90,0007. in one night, was ruined, and
went back to the East to make another.
Lord Cholmondeley was a very agreeable man, full
of anecdote: he married a Bertie, sister of the late
Lady Willoughby de Eresby; and the two sisters
being co-heiresses to the office of Lord Great Cham-
berlain of England, every succeeding reign it is served.
alternately by a representative of one of the two
families. He had always an excellent French cook,
but was very sparing of his wine, though no other
expense was grudged. I have often seen him keep a
bottle of Sillery champagne in the ice-pail, close to
1836.]
83
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
:
him, and dole it out by thimblefuls to the company,
as if it gave him pain to part with it. He kept
up to the last the old custom at large dinners
of having the upper servants in full dress; his, I
remember, were in dark brown coats with a broad
gold lace the Reform Bill has now done away with
these old feudal displays, and poor Lord Cholmon-
deley's high-bred politeness seems to have vanished
with them. Lady Cholmondeley was good nature
personified; besides their three children, there were
at that time two beautiful girls in the house, who
found a father's care and affection in Lord Chol-
mondeley.
Miss Cholmondeley was probably his daughter *;
she married Lord Durham, and died in little more
than a twelvemonth afterwards. To Miss Sey-
mour his claims of paternity were more disputed;
George Selwyn was on the list, but George Prince
of Wales always privately seemed to take the honour
to himself, and showed great interest in her welfare;
she married Lord Charles Bentinck; but when in
consequence of this royal protection, an attempt
was made on the marriage to quarter the royal
arms with the bar of bastardy, a royal veto was
immediately issued to prevent it.
Her life was also short; she died in a few years
after her marriage.
Lord Cholmondeley had in his life been peculiarly
fortunate in discovering old claims to property which
* Others say General Keppell's, but Miss Seymour was the
daughter of Charles Windham; her mother was the celebrated
Mrs. Elliott.
G 2
84
[Nov.
JOURNAL OF
* had been either dormant or unknown to his family.
An instance of this sort gave rise to a lawsuit, which
at one time was very much talked of. The late Lord
Clinton, then quite a young man, became a member
of Watier's Club, and unfortunately lost a con-
siderable sum at whist wishing to raise some
money for this purpose on mortgage, he sent the
title-deeds of his family estate to be investigated by
a lawyer; this man, on looking over the deeds, found
that an old claim existed on the whole property in
favour of the Cholmondeley family, and forthwith
informed his Lordship of the circumstance, who
lost no time in commencing his action for the
recovery. It made a great noise at the time; and
as appearances at first were very much in favour of
the suit, it was considered not only a very hard case
upon Lord Clinton, who would thus be totally ruined,
but an act of rapacity on the part of the other, who
was in such very affluent circumstances. The claim,
however, was never clearly made out, and a com-
promise took place. It was in this interval that old
Mr. Coke*, of Holkham, satirically wrote a letter to
Lord Cholmondeley to the following purport, viz.
"that wishing to feel easy as to his own property,
which he had inherited from a long train of ancestors,
but knowing the various claims which his Lordship
possessed upon that of others, he begged leave to
inquire what sum he would be contented to receive,
as an indemnity, for any claim he might hereafter
think fit to make upon the Holkham Estate." Lord
* Afterwards raised to the Peerage with the title of Earl of
Leicester.
1836.]
85
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Cholmondeley replied in the same facetious style,
"that with every wish to tranquillise the mind of
an old and much loved friend, he did not think that,
in justice to his own family, he could consistently
enter into any arrangement which might hereafter
be so detrimental to their future interests."
Watier's Club had a very short duration in
London; but it was a feature in the society of that
day, which will long be remembered as a scene of
dissipation and high play, attended with the most
fatal and ruinous consequences. It was originally
instituted in 1807 by the Maddocks's, Calverts, and
Lord Headfort as a harmonic meeting; a house was
taken in Piccadilly at the corner of Bolton Street,
and Watier, a superlative cook, was hired as master
of the revels. This destination of the club was
soon changed; the dinners were so recherchés, and
were so much talked of in town, that all the young
men of fashion and fortune became members of it.
The catches and glees were then superseded by
cards and dice; the most luxurious dinners were
furnished at any price, as the deep play at night
rendered all charges a matter of indifference. Macao
was the constant game, and thousands passed from
one to another with as much facility as marbles.
Brummell was the supreme dictator, "their club's
perpetual president," laying down the law in dress,
in manners, and in those magnificent snuffboxes,
for which there was a rage; he fomented the ex-
cesses, ridiculed the scruples, patronised the novices,
and exercised paramount dominion over all. He
had, as I have before said, great success at Macao,
G 3
86
[Nov.
JOURNAL OF
winning in two or three years a large sum, which
went no one knew how, for he never lost back more
than a fourth of it before he levanted to Calais.
During the height of his prosperity, I remember
him coming in one night after the opera to Watier's,
and finding the Macao table full, one place at which
was occupied by Tom Sheridan, who was never in
the habits of play, but having dined freely had
dropped into the Club, and was trying to catch the
smiles of Fortune by risking a few pounds which
he could ill afford to lose. Brummell proposed to
him to give up his place, and go shares in his deal;
and adding to the 107. in counters which Tom had
before him 2007. for himself, took the cards. He
dealt with his usual success, and in less than ten
minutes won 15007. He then stopped, made a fair
division, and giving 750l. to Sheridan, said to him,
There, Tom, go home and give your wife and
brats a supper, and never play again." I mention
the anecdote as characteristic of the times, the set,
and of a spirit of liberality in Brummell, which
with all his faults he possessed, and which was
shown towards an old friend in a way that left no
pretext for refusal.
Among the singular characters that frequented
Watier's Club, was a man named Bob Bligh, a heavy
fat fellow, as mad as a March hare. He was first
cousin to Lord Darnley, but had conceived a violent
enmity against him, and whenever they met in the
street attempted to horsewhip him.
He was frequently taken up by the police, and
bound over to keep the peace; but as soon as he
1836.]
87
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
saw his victim he forgot his recognizances and in-
curred fresh prosecution, which ended in a long con-
finement in the King's Bench.
One evening at the Macao table, when the play
was very deep, Brummell having lost a considerable
stake, affected, in his farcical way, a very tragic air,
and cried out, “Waiter, bring me a flat candlestick
and a pistol." Upon which Bligh, who was sitting
opposite to him, calmly produced two loaded pistols
from his coat pocket, which he placed on the table,
and said, “Mr. Brummell, if you are really desirous
to put a period to your existence, I am extremely
happy to offer you the means without troubling the
waiter." The effect upon those present may easily
be imagined, at finding themselves in the company
of a known madman who had loaded weapons about
him.
Still, I must render one justice to that ill-fated
club: - the high sense of honourable feeling which
prevailed amongst the members, where all were
equally incautious, and none would have deigned to
take an unfair advantage of another. I must also
add that general system of good breeding and good
humour which, under very exciting circumstances,
was never once interrupted by a personal quarrel.
It remained for later times to produce a man of
rank and fortune who would disgrace himself by
acting the part of a sharper to his friends. The
club commenced by a sinister event, which might be
considered an omen of the desolation it was doomed
to entail upon its votaries. The founder, Mr. John
Maddocks, who married Lord Craven's sister, cut
G 4
88
[DEC.
JOURNAL OF
his throat with a razor at his house in Stratton Street,
under the momentary influence of mental aberration.
The club did not endure for twelve years altogether;
the pace was too quick to last: it died a natural death
in 1819, from the paralysed state of its members;
the house was then taken by a set of blacklegs, who
instituted a common bank for gambling. To form
an idea of the ruin produced by this short-lived
establishment among men whom I have so intimately
known, a cursory glance to the past suggests the
following melancholy list, which only forms a part of
its deplorable results.
*
*
*
*
*
None of the dead reached the average age of man,
and those who have survived may always look back
to the life at Watier's as the source of their embar-
rassments.
Friday, December 3rd.-The gales have been so
violent in Holland and in England, that the papers.
are filled with accounts of the damage to buildings
and the lives that have been lost. A singular
accident occurred to Prince Alexander, son of the
Prince of Orange, this week. He was travelling in
his carriage to the Hague, when the violence of the
tempest tore up a tree by the roots, which fell exactly
at the moment when the Prince was passing, and
crushed the carriage to atoms. He was taken up
lifeless, and for some time was considered in immi-
nent danger, but hopes are since entertained of his
recovery.
Saturday, 4th. Mr. Fergusson, a friend of Bel-
fast's, is just returned from a tour to Russia: he
1836.]
89
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
went by sea, but in travelling from Petersburg he
was stopped on the road by the police, who, on
seeing his name on his passport, and supposing he
was Mr. Cutlar Fergusson, the advocate of the
Poles in the House of Commons, sent him back 120
versts; a proof that the Autocrat reads our news-
papers with attention, and is anxious to give the
Radicals a courteous reception.
I saw a letter to-day from the head-quarters of
Don Carlos, written in high spirits, anticipating the
speedy fall of Bilbao, and sanguine in the hopes of
defeating the corps of Espartero, which was advan-
cing to its relief.
Otho, King of Greece, was married on the 22nd
ult. to the Princess Amelia of Oldenburg; he does
not seem to hurry his return to his dutiful subjects.
A Court mourning for Charles X. has been
ordered at Berlin, and funeral masses have been said
for him at Rome. The Bourbon family is assembled
at Goritz, for the opening of the will.
+
Monday, 5th. The following horrible instance of
justice at Morocco is taken from the " Moniteur" of
Algiers.
"A butcher in that town, or rather a dealer in
meat fried in oil, which the Moors call Khelia, hit
upon an expedient to supply the wants of his cus-
tomers without putting himself to any expense in the
purchase of the commodity. He allured, under
different pretexts, into a retired part of his house,
those women in low life whose evil destiny brought
them to his shop; there they were murdered, cut in
pieces, and their flesh, when dressed, exposed for
90
DEC.
JOURNAL OF
sale on his shambles. Eight women had disappeared
in this manner; at length his own wife conceived
suspicions of this horrid traffic, and having ascer-
tained the real fact, went and made a complete dis-
covery to the Pacha. Retributive justice was soon
awarded; the butcher was seized, and nailed alive to
his own chopping block; four negroes were ordered
to cut him in pieces, but slowly, and so gradually,
that the miserable wretch could still live to see
morsels of his own flesh fried before his face, and
given to a pack of hungry dogs, who were assembled
from all parts of the town for this disgusting
purpose."
I was talking to Lord Granville, when we were
joined by Lord Lyndhurst, who asked him if he
meant to go over to England for the meeting of
Parliament on the 31st of next month.
"I do not
know," said Lord Granville, "what object or amuse-
ment I could have in going to hear you make a
violent speech against my friends;" and added,
"Whatever it may be, I suppose you are prepared
with a splendid amendment." "Oh," said Lord
Lyndhurst," amendments are of very little use."
"There was one," replied Lord Granville, "which
we carried in February last year, which was of
rather serious importance."
The Court of Madrid has gone into mourning for
three weeks for Charles X.; the Court of Sardinia
for twenty days, and that of Lucca for six weeks.
An old friend, Major-General Sir Charles Gre-
ville, brother to the Earl of Warwick, died on the 2nd
inst. at his house in town. He was a good officer,
1836.]
91
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
had served during all the campaigns in Spain and
Portugal, and was a mild, amiable man.
CC
Friday, 10th.-I had a long letter this morning
from Lord Wiltshire, dated Malta. He has been to
the French colony at Algiers, which he describes as
being in a tottering state. They are in possession
of very little territory beyond the town, and their
furthest outposts are not more than seven or eight
leagues from the Fort Empereur, which was built
after Charles X.'s unsuccessful attack. The imme-
diate neighbourhood of Algiers, though in possession
of the French, cannot be traversed after sunset; and
the Arabs, particularly the Hardjoute tribes, are
very active in their annoyance. The Kabyles are to
be found more in the immediate neighbourhood of
Oran, as also Abdel Kader. At Bougie, another
settlement about 150 miles to the eastward, where
the tribes are more ferocious, they have never been
able to go out of the fortress. The French tenure
seems very precarious; and you would be surprised
to see the little they have done since their six years'
occupation; had they acted wisely, they would have
given it up after having made the Dey disgorge
his riches, which, after all, only served to enrich
Marshal Bourmont. The chief advantage of the
French consisted in their artillery, of which the Arabs
knew nothing. Now they have got four pieces well
served, and will soon have more. Clausel is looking
only to the main chance, and trying to enrich himself
while the harvest lasts. The expedition to Mascara
was cunningly got up for the Duke of Orleans, where
little or nothing was to be got; but as soon as thạt
92
[DEC.
JOURNAL OF
was over, he had Tremecen snugly cut and dry for
himself. At that place there were considerable riches
found in gold, silver, and jewels, as no European
had ever penetrated there since the time of the
Romans. The Marshal made a tool of that renegade
Youssuff Bey, to bastinado men and women, and com-
pelled the discovery of much hidden treasure, par-
ticularly belonging to the Jews. A considerable sale
took place afterwards at Algiers, and the rest was
shipped off for France; so you see there is still a
thriving trade for French marshals.
"We found the Marquis of Waterford, and his
brother Lord John in Africa. He sailed for Ireland
in his yacht, the Gem,' with a cargo like Noah's
Ark. Two gazelles, two eagles, two Carthage cranes,
two vultures of the Atlas, &c. &c."
Tuesday, 13th. The attempt to form a new
passage to India by the river Euphrates is given
up, and Colonel Chesney has been ordered home.
Considerable apprehension is entertained for the
army of Marshal Clausel, which has marched to
attack the Bey of Constantine. A telegraphic dispatch
from Toulon announces that the cold and snow had
made great havoc among the troops, and they had
met with more resistance than was anticipated from
the Arabs. The Duc de Nemours is attached to the
expedition.
Lord Lyndhurst, who dined with me, with Lord
Harry Vane and Aston, is full of amusing anec-
dote. He told us, that the other day at Court
Lord Canterbury appeared in the dress uniform worn
by the Speaker, which is very gorgeous, and at-
1836.]
93
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
tracted the notice of the Mexican Minister, who was
very anxious to know who it was. When Lord
Lyndhurst told him it was Lord Canterbury, having
only a confused idea of our titles, he replied, "Oh
yes, I understand; Archbishop of Canterbury ;" and
without waiting for further explanation, he went
about expressing his surprise that the English clergy
should wear such splendid uniforms.
Wednesday, 14th.-Edward Ellice is in Paris again,
and says that Thiers is organising a most violent op-
position against the present Cabinet. For two suc-
cessive days the Government has published disjointed
bulletins from Marshal Clausel, supposed to arrive
by the telegraph, and breaking off in the middle of a
sentence, as if interrupted by the haziness of the
weather. Each post seems more unsatisfactory than
the preceding, and it has the air of a manœuvre to
break gradually to the public, news which will cause
some serious discontent.
Thursday, 15th.-Met at dinner at Mr. Francis
Baring's, Count Medem, Secretary to the Russian
Embassy, Aston and Montrond, who were all very
pleasant. Baring married Mademoiselle Maret,
daughter to the Duke of Bassano, who is one of the
prettiest and most charming women in society.
The disaster has at length transpired. Clausel's
army, after much suffering from cold and famine
during its march to Constantine, has been attacked
by the Arabs, and driven back with great slaughter,
losing its baggage and artillery; many officers are
killed and wounded. The Duc de Nemours is ar-
rived at Toulon. Further particulars are expected
94
[DEC.
JOURNAL OF
from the private letters, as the Government with-
holds as much as it can of the disastrous intelligence.
Nothing talked of but the disastrous affair at Con-
stantine, which, from the inclemency of the weather
and the harassing pursuit of the enemy, is likened
to a retreat from Moscow in miniature. The French
vanity is deeply wounded. General De Rigny has
disgraced himself by his cowardly conduct. He called
out, "Sauve qui peut," and fled from the field. Clau-
sel was deceived by Youssuff Bey, who told him that
the town was prepared to receive him with open
arms, whereas they only waited the favourable mo-
ment to attack him.
Paul Sannegon, who went out as a curieux to see
the campaign, fell a victim to the hardships he en-
dured in a very few days, and died raving mad. A
council of Ministers was held this night to deliberate
on the dispatches. Much recrimination passed on
all sides, and the members parted much exasperated.
This business will create some awful discussions at
the opening of the Chambers.
Two boys under seventeen were tried yesterday as
conspirators to take away the life of the King in
July last. It came out, that one of them, named
Oursell, a candidate for fame, had written an anony-
mous letter to the Préfet de la Police, denouncing
himself and his comrade as two Republicans intent
on poniarding the King at the review. The order
of the fêtes was countermanded, and the whole turns
out to be a trick of these young rascals to mystify
the Government, and make themselves the subject of
1836.]
95
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
conversation. They were acquitted, of course, but
deserved a sound flogging.
Saturday, 17th.-Clausel accuses the Government,
and the Government accuses Clausel; but this much
is certain, that during the whole year in Africa there
are never more than six weeks of inclement weather,
and it is precisely this season that the French have
chosen for their operations. While the climate here
has been so unusually mild that we hardly required
fires, the cold and snow has decimated the French
army in that southern latitude.
The conversation at the Club, where men of all
parties and all nations meet, is very interesting. It
makes a strong contrast to the trivial commèrage
which forms the general topic of our meetings in St.
James's Street. There, the same clique predominates;
here, we have all the foreign Ministers and travellers,
mixed with French Carlists, Philippistes, and Napo-
leonists, most of whom bear names that figure in the
history of France.
One only inconvenience results from the medley,
which is, that party-spirit runs very high, and in-
fluences the ballot to such an extent that few have
any longer the chance of being admitted.
Sunday, 18th.-The Duke and Duchess of Suther-
land drove into Paris yesterday with a train of five
carriages and servants, which resembled the cavalcade
of a sovereign. The people on the Boulevards said
it must be "le Roi des Belges, ou,-le Pape."
Tuesday, 20th.-The Damers arrived in Paris.
We have had five whole months in Paris without
a plot or an attempt to assassinate the King, which
96
[DEC.
JOURNAL OF
gives us an unusual appearance of consistency. The
Government papers are very sore at the Court mourn-
ing commanded in England for Charles X.
The accounts from St. Sebastian represent Colonel
Evans's legion as in a state of mutiny from hunger
and want of pay. Mendizabal's Government has
failed in all his engagements towards them; and the
poor deluded men are left in such distress, that they
threaten to pillage the inhabitants of the town.
Colonel Evans is anxious to return to England to
meet his constituents; but instead of the laurels which
he promised to acquire in Spain, he will have a
melancholy account to give of his rash and ill-advised
expedition.
Villareal is returned to Paris. He has been ab-
sent for little more than two years, during which he
has been Minister for Foreign Affairs in Lisbon, and
has again been obliged to take refuge in a foreign
land. Palmella, who quitted Portugal with him,
remains in England.
Wednesday, 21st. It appears that one of the
causes which have induced Madame Lipano to come
to Paris is, her claim to the domain of Neuilly, the
residence of the King. This property was formerly
purchased by her as Grand Duchess of Berg, before
she was Queen of Naples, and had been irregularly
united by Napoleon to the domains of the Crown.
At the Restoration, Louis XVIII. ceded it in ex-
change to the House of Orleans. The rights of
Madame Murat are positive, but it becomes a matter
of discussion whether the Civil List or the Treasury
will make them good.
1836.]
97
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Madame Murat demands a million of francs instead
of Neuilly, if the King chooses to retain his residence.
The Duc de Nemours is arrived at Paris without
his baggage, which was left in the mud near Con-
stantine. He will cut a sorry figure at the family
dinner on Christmas Day.
Everything here is got up as a clap-trap. Last
year at this period the Mascara expedition was
enacted for the Duke of Orleans, who mingled his
laurels with the mistletoe. This year, the tables are
turned; and his brother brings nothing but a bunch
of cypress.
The chief disappointment of all is, the
blank which it must make in the King's speech.
Friday, 23rd. - General de Rigny has demanded
a court-martial on his conduct; and his friends say
that he had been wantonly traduced by the Marshal
in his dispatch. Prince Talleyrand is arrived in town.
He has quite lost the use of his legs, but his general
health is good, and he receives his friends as usual.
Espartero has retired from before Bilbao, notwith-
standing his force was superior to the enemy, and
the Carlists in consequence have resumed the siege.
The Christino Generals seem, one and all, to be
either cowards or traitors. Gomez, who was supposed
to be completely defeated in Andalusia, has re-
appeared with a considerable force, and seems march-
ing towards Bilbao.
Sunday, 25th.-Christmas Day; the frost and snow
began. A curious dinner took place yesterday at
the Rocher de Cancale, when the political sentiments
of the individuals are considered. Lords Lyndhurst
and Lowther, Edward Ellice, and M. Thiers met
VOL. III.
H
98
[DEC.
JOURNAL OF
together by appointment. The two first are ultra-
Tories, the two latter Republicans.
Tuesday, 27th.-The opening of the Chambers
took place to-day. The ceremony was marked by a
fresh instance of the implacability of the Republican
party against the King. As Louis-Philippe passed
out of the gate of the Tuileries in his coach, accom-
panied by his three sons, a ruffian approached and
fired a pistol at him, but missed his aim. The ball
passed close to his head, and shattered the carriage
window on the opposite side, some splinters of which
slightly wounded the Dukes of Orleans and Nemours.
The man was instantly arrested; but has refused to
give any name, though he openly acknowledges his
intention. Though tolerably well-dressed, he appears
to be of the lower orders, and of very vulgar coun-
tenance and manner. When stripped, he was pro-
nounced by the physicians to be infected with the
itch. The King has had a most narrow escape; but
surrounded as he was by troops, National Guards,
and policemen, with Marshal Lobau riding at the
door of the carriage, it is wonderful to think that the
criminal could have approached so near to his person.
The speech from the Throne had nothing remark-
able in it, except the assurance that no military in-
tervention in Spain would be contemplated.
The name of the assassin is discovered, though he
refused to tell it. It is Meunier; he is a journey-
man saddler at La Chapelle, near Paris, and has no
accomplices.
Thursday, 29th. - The weather has been so
severe, and the sea so stormy, that we have been a
1836.]
99
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
whole week without any communication with Eng-
land, which has not happened for fourteen years.
Friday, 30th. Several individuals have been
arrested; but it seems to be an isolated plot, al-
though Meunier said to the police officer, "I am
No. 2., you will soon hear of No. 3."
The Chambers are now opened, and the ballots
for the presidents, vice-presidents, and secretaries of
the Deputies, carried by very small majorities, prove
that the Ministerialist party and that of the Oppo-
sition is nearly balanced.
Saturday, 31st.—The papers are just arrived from
England, where the weather has been so unusually
severe, and the drifted snow so deep, that the com-
munication between London and the coast has been
completely suspended.
Accounts arrived this evening from Bayonne state
that the siege of Bilbao has been raised, the Carlists
have been beaten by the forces of Espartero, and
have lost much of their artillery; the solution of
this enigma is explained by the presence of an
English force with English cannon under Col-
quhoun, sent thither by the non-intervening Lord
Palmerston at the moment when Louis-Philippe, his
ally in the Quadruple Treaty, was publicly announc-
ing his determination not to interfere.
1 2
100
[JAN.
JOURNAL OF
1837.
TUESDAY, January 3rd.-There was a grand recep-
tion at Court for the new year. My daughter was
presented by Mrs. Damer. The Royal Family looked
careworn, but were very gracious to their visitors.
When the King came up to Mrs. Damer, she ex-
pressed her happiness at seeing him look so well,
notwithstanding the late shock which he must have
received. His reply was very curious: "Yes,
notwithstanding! but it is useless."
What a
wretched existence has he created for himself, One
of the aides-de-camp also said to Mrs. Damer, "You
see what we are come to; people are stationed in
the ante-room to watch every visitor lest it should
prove to be an assassin.”
The Duke of Montrose has terminated a long
life last week, aged eighty-two. Poor Lord West-
moreland is fast declining, and two Garters will then
be vacant.
Wednesday, 4th.-M. Dupin's speech to the King,
as President of the Chamber, is much talked of; it
was.a caustic Philippic, taunting him with want of
farth to his oaths, under the semblance of telling
him what the nation expected of their King. The
reply was adroit, without seeming to notice the
allusion.
Tuesday, 10th.-English are studying the art of
making sugar from beetroot at Valenciennes; and,
notwithstanding our numerous colonies, we are not
1837.]
101
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
to be left behind in this new production, which is
daily becoming more extensive and important as an
article of commerce in Europe. We were the first
to ridicule this experiment of Napoleon, when in its
infancy, and Talleyrand treated it with sovereign
contempt.
Passing one day through the ante-room of the
Emperor, he observed on the chimney-piece a paper
containing some samples of the new invention; he
looked at it with a smile, wetted the tip of his finger,
and tasting the powder, shook his head, and said,
"Va te faire sucre."
Wednesday, 11th.-A book has just appeared from
the pen of the bibliophile Jacob, on the old subject
of the Iron Mask, in which it is attempted to prove
that this mysterious character was no other than the
Surintendant Fouquet, whose trial and condemnation
are so well described by Madame de Sevigné.
Louis XIV., fearful of attempts to effect his
escape from Pignerol, and determined never to
pardon him, propagates the report of his death,
that he may the more effectually stifle the inquiries
of his friends, and then continues his imprison-
ment under a new character, attended with all these
additional precautions. It is a new version of an
old story, which has been so carefully wrapped up
in mystery by the authors, that it will never be
clearly ascertained; but the proofs adduced are not
so plausible as those adduced by Voltaire for this
victim of State policy having been the Comte de
Vermandois. There were, however, circumstances
in the case of Fouquet to cause a dire animosity on
H 3
102
[JAN.
JOURNAL OF
the part of the monarch. His unblushing pecula-
tions, his royal magnificence which excited even
the envy of his master at Grand Vaux
his am-
bitious attempt to grasp the power of Mazarin, all
hastened his fall; but private reasons of a more
delicate nature increased the exasperation, when he
openly made love to Madame le la Vallière, and
afterwards, when his papers are supposed to have
proved the assertion which, true or false, was made
by the enemies of the widow Scarron, from whom
the following note was said to have been found in
his bureau:
"Je ne vous connois point assez pour vous aimer,
et quand je vous connoîtrois, peut-être je vous aime-
rais moins. J'ai toujours fui le vice, et naturellement
je haïs le péché, mais je vous avoue que je haïs en-
core d'avantage la pauvreté. J'ai reçu vos dix mille
écus; si vous voulez en apporter encore dix mille
dans deux jours, je verrai ce que j'aurai à faire."
This may account for increased animosity when
the King became attached to Madame de Mainte-
non; and as the death of Fouquet at Pignerol was
publicly announced in the beginning of 1681, his
fresh sufferings must have lasted till the 29th of
September, 1703, when the man with the Iron
Mask was relieved from his chains by death.
Thursday, 12th.-Baron Gerard, one of the most
celebrated French painters, died yesterday in Paris
in his sixty-sixth year. His two chief productions
are the Belisarius and the Battle of Austerlitz,
which are well known to the world.
Meunier persists in maintaining an obstinate
silence. On Saturday he was interrogated for three
1837.]
103
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
hours by Baron Pasquier, to whom he gave an
account of his past life, without throwing any light
on the conspiracy. Arrests, however, still continue.
Friday, 13th.-Charles de Mornay is arrived in
Paris, on leave of absence from his embassy at Stock-
holm, where he had met with Lord and Lady L
on their way to Russia. He asked her Ladyship if
she was going on to Vienna, when she very frankly
replied, "I was guilty of so many impertinences
there during the time that I was Ambassadress,
that I should be afraid to show my face."
A long brevet has appeared in the "Gazette" of
promotions military and naval: among the list of
Major-Generals, I see the name of my quondam
friend, It is near twenty years ago that I
remember at Oatlands, Tom Stepney, when drunk
after dinner, alluding to him, and saying to the
Duke of York, "Why does not your Royal Highness
make a general?" The event is now accom-
plished. Stepney got into a habit of saying so many
impertinent things to the Duke, that he was gradually
discarded from his society, but a reconciliation took
place about two years previous to the Duke's death,
and a dinner was given by Stepney on the occasion
at his house in Henrietta Street. To ingratiate
himself with his guest, a whist table was made up
for the Duke, contrary to our usual custom, and by
the same token I remember that I was kept there
till six o'clock in the morning.
Monday, 18th.-Another old friend is gone. Poor
Frederick Ponsonby died last Thursday of an affec-
tion of the heart. He was second son of the Earl of
I 4
104
[JAN.
JOURNAL OF
Bessborough, and married in 1825 to Lady Emily
Bathurst. He was an excellent cavalry officer, a
man of high courage as well as of the mildest dispo-
sition. At the battle of Waterloo he was severely
wounded by the French lancers in a charge, and left
all night for dead on the field of battle; in this dan-
gerous state he was found the next morning, and
after a long confinement recovered. Hume, the
Duke's surgeon, always said that he was indebted
for his life to the extreme tranquillity of his character,
which was never ruffled by irritation or discontent.
After his marriage he obtained the appointment of
military commander and then Governor of Malta,
where he resided several years; he was a General in
the army, had a regiment, but has left a family with
slender means of support.
He was a great friend of Charles Bouverie, for
whom in his reverses, he obtained, through Lord
Bathurst, his little sinecure in the West Indies, which
was abolished afterwards by Lord Grey and the
Whigs, and survived him only a few months. Poor
Bouverie wanted to call out Lord Grey for being
thrown upon the pavé by this retrenchment. In
early life Ponsonby lost large sums at play, which
were paid by his relation the late Duke of Devonshire,
who married his mother's sister, Lady G. Spencer.
Lady Bessborough was a leading character, with
her sister the Duchess, in those entertainments at
Devonshire House, which many years ago engrossed
all the wit and fashion of London society for a long
period, since quoted as the era of refinement and
pleasure. Even Lady Granville now, when she
1837.]
105
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
meets an ancient votary of those days, illustrated by
her mother, will say, "He too remembers Devon-
shire House."
The late Duke was one of those impassible cha-
racters, who allow nothing to ruffle their serenity,
high born, well bred, with all the formality of the
vieille cour. He was the head of the Whig party,
the Duchess the active mover in all the cabals of
that day. I remember the sensation created in town
by her personal canvass for the buff and blue interest,
at the famous election of Charles Fox for West-
minster, when she drove about in a splendid carriage
to solicit the votes of the different tradesmen. One
butcher was refractory, and stipulated for a salute,
as the only price at which he would sell his suffrage,
and the beautiful Duchess yielded her cheek to the
greasy suitor. The streets then resounded with the
following ballad:-
"A Piccadilly beauty
Went out on canvassing duty
To help the great distresses
Of poor little Carlo Khan.
"The butchers and the bakers,
The grocers, undertakers,
The milliners and toymen,
All vote for Carlo Khan."
In those days the men of fashion were scholars as
well as wits, and Fitzpatrick celebrated the same
event in a Latin epigram which was much admired :-
1
66
Quis dea sublimi vehitur per compita curru ?
An Juno, an Pallas, an Venus ipsa venit?
Si genus aspicies Juno est, si dicta Minerva,
Si spectes oculos, mater amoris erit.”
106
[JAN.
JOURNAL OF
The Duchess was a great favourite of George IV.,
then Prince of Wales, who derived from her society
much of that high-bred manner, for which he was
always remarkable.
At length she died in 1806, and with her faded
away the splendid gaieties of Devonshire House.
The Duke then married Lady Elizabeth Forster,
who after his death lived chiefly at Rome: he re-
mained a constant pillar of the club at Brookes's,
where, his rubber at whist ended, a hot supper with
boiled mackarel while in season, constantly awaited
his Grace at four in the morning.
To return to Sir Fredk. Ponsonby: the physicians
had long ago pronounced that the action of his heart
was disordered, that he might live on for years, but
that when the crisis came, he would die suddenly,
as if by a pistol shot. He was travelling to town
with his family, he stopped to dine at the inn at
Murrell Green, and just as he had seated himself
at table fell off his chair and expired.
Tuesday, 17th.-Charles Greville arrived from
London, and sat an hour with me this morning.
Ferney has been sold by auction! This philo-
sophic Mecca to which, scarcely fifty years ago,
crowds went in pilgrimage; this consecrated spot,
the threshold of which in the 18th century was
passed with the deepest respect by the visitors, who
bowed before the bed and the fauteuil of its mas-
ter, as before holy relics; all, we understand, are to
be converted, under the new possessor of Ferney,
into a manufactory of beet-root sugar. The temple,
which bears on its front this proud inscription, "Deo
1837.]
107
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
erexit Voltaire," will become probably a stable or
granary.
Farinelli, the celebrated composer, died at Trieste
on the 12th ult.: he must have been a descendant of
the famous singer whom Hogarth introduced into
his Rake's Progress.
Sunday, 22nd.-The trial at Strasbourg has just
terminated by a verdict of acquittal; it is difficult to
conceive upon what grounds, except, that as the
Government had thought it prudent to remove the
principal without trial from France, the jury did not
feel disposed to condemn the subaltern agents. It
is a proceeding which cannot strengthen the throne,
and will probably give rise to fresh movements and
disorders.
A man belonging to the beet-root sugar manu-
factory of St. Saulon, near Valenciennes, a few days
ago in a moment of irritation, arising out of a dispute,
threw one of his companions into a vat full of syrup.
The victim scrambled out, and hastened to the town
to lay a complaint before a magistrate. The frost
was very severe, and before he reached his destina-
tion the syrup became so completely candied that he
bore all the appearance of an enormous stick of
barley-sugar, insomuch that when he came to the
magistrate's door, his arms were glued to his sides,
and he was obliged to entreat a person passing by to
pull the bell for him. The plaintiff received 15 fr.
damages for the assault, and paid 20 fr. to the pro-
prietors for loss on the syrup.
Lord Lyndhurst is gone, and the other Members
of both Houses are on their departure.
108
[JAN.
JOURNAL OF
The following new Peers have been created.
Lord Howard, of Effingham
Lord Ducie
Lord Yarborough
Ed. B. Portman, Esq.
T. A. Fraser, of Lovat
William Hanbury .
•
Earl of Effingham.
Earl of Ducie, Baron Moreton.
Earl of Yarborough, Baron
Worsley.
Baron Portman.
Baron Lovat.
Baron Bateman.
Monday, 23rd.-The Earls of Rosslyn and Arran
are both dead, at the advanced age of seventy-five.
The former was long seated on the Opposition
benches with his friend Fox and the Whigs, but he
at last joined the Tory party and the Duke, about
seven years ago, just before they quitted office, and
has since acted with them; he and Lord Jersey
changed their politics about the same time, and with
the same success.
A duel has arisen out of the trial at Strasbourg.
One of the prisoners, Commander P, called out
a witness, Col. Tallandier, and received from him a
serious sword wound. Some idea may be formed of
P—, by the following anecdote related of him the
other day at the club by Sir Richard Acton. He
was engaged in an important lawsuit, which was
defended by a brother of P—, who is a barrister
at Paris; the Commandant called upon him one
morning, and stating his relationship to the adverse
counsel, offered to bring him over to Sir Richard's
interest, if he would give him 100,000 fr. for himself.
The only notice he took of this proposal was to
inform the counsel of his brother's proceedings, who
sent him word that he was a vaurien.
1837.]
109
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Tuesday, 24th.-The Duc de T-, brother to
the Prince, aged seventy-six years, has been for
some time past in a state of mental weakness. A
trial came on the other day to decide on a claim
made by one Moursalt on the Duke for a sum of
10,500 fr., for which he had been unwarily entrapped
into giving his promissory note. The plaintiff was
non-suited, and the trial was not otherwise remark-
able than as to the examination of the Duke himself
in Court, to prove his actual state of mind. In this
act, the Duke declares, that he is only thirty-eight
years old. He is asked if he has any fortune, he
replies that chance has very often procured him the
means of happiness. "What sort of happiness?"
asked the Judge. "Such as at present," (replied
the Duke, like an old courtier,) "that of finding
myself in good company." " Are you able to count?"
asked the President. "Without doubt, do you take
me for a child?" Some pieces of money are placed
before him, but the poor Duke, after an attempt to
calculate the number, loses his head.
"What are
your habits of life?" "I like to see good company.
I like to give,-my daughter lives with me, I
breakfast, I dine, and then we go to bed." The
Duke had formerly been proprietor of the Park and
Castle at Rosny; this property is recalled to his re-
collection, and he still imagines that the Duchess de
Berry is living there. Everything proved that he
was unable to manage his affairs, or to defend himself
from the wiles of the designing. He was formerly
a very handsome man, and one of the leaders of the
ton in Paris; twenty years ago, after the peace, he
110
[JAN.
JOURNAL OF
was a constant attendant at the Salon des Etrangers,
held in the Rue Grange Batelière, which was then
the resort of the highest society, both French and
foreigners. I at that time used to remark that
every evening previous to sitting down to the Hazard
table, he retired to the fireplace, and placing his
hand across his face, appeared to mutter something
to himself. On inquiry, I learnt that he was making
a little silent prayer for success.
The Prince Talleyrand, though now in his eighty-
fourth year, still enjoys good bodily health, while his
mental faculties remain unimpaired by the ravages
of time: he is still as remarkable as ever for the
quickness of his perception, and the poignancy of his
repartee. C. Greville dined with him the other day;
the conversation turned on the longevity of animals,
when some one appealed to the Prince, whether the
perroquets were not supposed to arrive at the longest
age. His answer was accompanied with a sarcastic
glance at one of the guests, "Je ne me connois pas
dans la vie des perroquets, mais j'en ai vû beaucoup
qui radotent.”
Saturday, 28th.-Chas. Greville received a letter
with the news of the death of Lady Combermere,
after two days' illness. She had persisted in attend-
ing the funeral of the late Mr. Fulke Greville, her
father, when previously in a bad state of health her-
self, and the agitation produced by the scene brought
on a nervous fever, under which she sank in forty-
eight hours.
The accounts from England of deaths by influ-
enza are quite appalling. Here the disorder is not
1837.]
111
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
of so dangerous a nature, but half the inhabitants
have been attacked by it.
Monday, 30th.-The letters from England mention
that the Government is come to an understanding
with its Radical supporters, who have agreed to give
them a little respite on condition that they will
resume active operations after Easter.
A great Protestant meeting has taken place at
Dublin, which was attended by all the rank and pro-
perty of that persuasion. It concluded with a peti-
tion to the King and the House of Lords, enumerat-
ing the grievances and oppression which they are
enduring under the present system.
Tuesday, 31st.-This morning died Sir Richard
Acton, of a pulmonary complaint, which after a
few days' illness carried him to the grave. He
married, four years ago, the daughter of the Duc
Dalberg, by whom he has one son. Sir Richard
was grandson to Sir John Acton, well known as
Minister to Queen Caroline of Naples. He had
a magnificent palace in that city, an estate on the
Rhine, and a good family property in Shropshire.
The society in Paris has been much struck by
an event which has so suddenly hurried away a
young man of thirty-two from a beautiful wife and
every circumstance of fortune which could render
life desirable. The Damers were engaged to dine
at his house on the day that he died.
Wednesday, February 1st.-Charles Greville dined
with me. At seven o'clock, the second edition of
"Galignani's Messenger" was brought in, containing
the King's Speech, delivered yesterday in Parliament.
112
[FEB.
JOURNAL OF
Supposing that it was read by the Commissioners at
two o'clock, it is wonderful to conceive the celerity
with which it has been forwarded to Paris. The
document itself is more than usually meagre ;—it
absolutely says nothing.
The opening of the Chambers has been signalised
by the proposal from Ministers of three projets de
loi:- The payment of a million to Leopold, as the
dower of his Queen; an appanage to the Duke de
Nemours of Rambouillet, and 500,000 fr. per annum ;
and a law of non-revelation, which will constitute
those who have cognizance of any plot or conspiracy
against the State, and do not become informers them-
selves, equally guilty with the projectors. These
are not measures to render the present dynasty more
popular.
Friday, 3rd.-Charles Greville returned to Eng-
land.
The opening of Parliament presents no feature
of interest. The Address was carried without any
amendment, as the Speech was evidently framed to
avoid all discussion. Sir R. Acton's body has been
opened, and it appears that his lungs were not
affected; his disorder was the epidemic influenza,
and supposed to have been improperly treated.
Saturday, 4th.—The French Ministry are very
much annoyed that no allusion to France has been
made in our King's Speech.
Sunday, 5th.-Many more deaths in England
from influenza; among others, Lord W. Seymour,
aged seventy-seven, brother to the first Marquis of
Hertford. He was a very eccentric character, and
1837.1
113
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
led a wandering life,-travelling over the country on
foot in the dress of a sailor; living at wretched inns
at little expense, with this peculiarity, that he always
had during the night several candles burning in his
room. He married a Miss Clitherowe, from whom
he had long been separated, and whom he used very
ill.
Tuesday, 7th.-The Mardi Gras was very cold
and dull. But few masks on the Boulevards. A
grand ball at Lord Pembroke's. Marshal Clausel
has addressed the following letter to M. Dupin,
President of the Chamber of Deputies:-
"Sir,
"On arriving in Paris, I read a speech which you
addressed to the King in the name of the Chamber
of Deputies, on the 1st of January. In the para-
graph relating to Africa, I remark this phrase :
• And we extend its power even into that country
where Rome, already become venal, had the misfor-
tune to send Calpurnius, and to meet with Jugurtha.'
The different interpretations which have been given
to your expression force me to demand an explanation,
which I trust you will not refuse to me.
"I have the honour, &c.,
"MARSHAL CLAUSEL."
M. Dupin has replied, that his allusion was clas-
sical, and not personal,-that he merely introduced
the subject to show his convictions of the baneful
consequences which would result to France from
retaining this fatal legacy of the Restoration; and
VOL. III.
I
114
[FEB.
JOURNAL OF
some mutual friends have since interfered to effect a
reconciliation between the parties.
Wednesday, 8th. There is something in the pre-
sent state of this country which to a near observer
must appear alarming. The King gains not in popu-
larity, to say the least. The Government has no
decided majority in the Chambers. The Carlist
party is firm and sullen; the Republicans are active
and untameable; the nation itself is not contented,
but from selfish motives desirous of tranquillity; the
service of the National Guard is considered irksome;
the new laws against the press have irritated that
formidable engine against the authors; and though
the military force is very imposing, and every pre-
caution is taken to fill the public streets with muni-
cipal guards and policemen, yet any day an émeute
may arise, which if seconded at the moment by cir-
cumstances, no one can say what might in four and
twenty hours produce a revolution.
Thursday, 9th.-An affair not very creditable to
is related in the "Gazette des Tri-
Prince
bunaux."
Mr. Fred. Posson, Mayor of Passy, has a claim
since 1829 on the Duc de for 12,000 fr.
With a view of obtaining some redress, Posson
addresses himself to the Prince and to the Duchesse
de
and sends them the proofs of his claim
through M. Gabriel Delessert. After waiting a long
time, and receiving no reply, he makes application to
the Prince for the restitution of his documents, who
denies having received them, or at least asserts that
if they were sent to him they had been forwarded
1837.]
115
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
at once to the Duke de
whose debts ne was
not obliged to pay. A suit was instituted against
the Prince by Posson, who lost his cause and also
the vouchers of his claim.
Friday, 10th. On Monday last died at Great-
ford, where he had laboured under mental derange-
ment for forty-five years, the Marquis of Drogheda,
aged sixty-eight. He was the eldest son of the late
Marquis, who married the sister of the first Marquis
of Hertford, a very eccentric character, passionately
fond of play, to which he was a victim all his life,
and subjected to great pecuniary embarrassments.
In his later years his estates were put out to nurse,
and a moderate pension was allowed to him by the
creditors for his subsistence. He was a constant
frequenter of the Dame Street Club in Dublin,
where the quarter-day of his income was generally
known, as he then resumed his seat at the gaming-
table, where he constantly lost all that he received,
except a small sum which he reserved for a frugal
maintenance till the next quarter came round, which
was then appropriated in the same manner. He
had a second son, Lord Henry Moore, with whom I
long lived on terms of great intimacy. Barring two
faults, the hereditary love of play, and a certain
irascibility of temper, Henry Moore was one of the
most amiable and agreeable companions that I ever
knew; his manners were the very type of a high-
bred gentleman, and extremely fascinating when he
pleased. He had a good figure, an air of great
douceur, with a sort of easy nonchalance in society,
which might characterise Don Mathias de Sylva.
I 2
116
[FEB.
JOURNAL OF
He had a good voice, and, during the annual meet-
ings of the worthy and independent electors of
Orford, in those gone-by days of boroughism for the
house of Hertford, his song would often enliven the
evening till the party returned to the hall. He was a
great favourite of his uncle, the late Marquis, and
lived constantly under his roof in Manchester House,
though perfectly independent of the family, who
sometimes for weeks together heard no tidings of his
existence, except from the intemperate application of
an occasional refractory dun at his lordship's door,
who was not unfrequently kicked down stairs for his
impertinence. His habits at times were very retired;
but when he emerged from his solitude, and made
his appearance at White's, everyone was anxious
to enjoy his society, and ask him to dinner, — C'étoit
à qui l'auroit.
2
This name recalls an anecdote of of which
Y reminded me only the other day, when he
was dining with us. Henry Moore and a few others
were at that time in Paris, and playing constantly
at the Salon. One evening, after various success
and reverses, he found himself a winner of 10,000
francs, and, doubting his resolution not to risk it
again, gave it in charge to, who was one of
the party, until they should have quitted the house.
All adjourned afterwards to Henry Moore's rooms,
where, when the guardian was asked for the deposit,
by some unaccountable accident it was found that
he had lost it from his pocket. Lord H. Moore
married, in 1826, Miss Parnell, daughter of Sir
Henry Parnell, but he unfortunately died in little
1837.]
117
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
more than a year afterwards, leaving an only son,
who now succeeds to the title and estates of Drog-
heda.
Saturday, 11th. - The Brigadier Bruyant con-
demned to death by a Council of War at Tours for
his complicity in the plot at Vendôme, has had his
sentence changed by the King into perpetual im-
prisonment.
Sunday, 12th.— The weather has been so stormy
that the English mails and letters are not arrived,
which disappoints us from hearing the result of
——————'s trial, which was to take place on Friday last.
Montrond has been very ill for the last three or four
weeks. He is visited daily by Prince Talleyrand,
who, unable himself to mount the long flights of
stairs which lead to his apartment in the Rue
Blanche, can only communicate with him through
the servants. He is seventy years old, but his
naturally strong constitution seems yielding to vio-
lent spasms.
و
Monday, 13th. The post this morning brought
me a few lines from
dated White's, Satur-
day night, saying has lost his cause; the jury
did not take ten minutes to deliberate on their
verdict for the defendant. The papers state that
the trial lasted two days. The Attorney-General
and Sir W. Follett were retained as counsel by
On the 7th inst. died at St. Gall the ex-King of
Sweden, who had resided there for some years under
the name of Col. Gustavson. He was born on the
1st of November, 1778. Though a minor, he suc-
1 3
118
[FEB.
JOURNAL OF
ceeded his father, Gustavus III., under the guardian-
ship of his uncle, the Duke of Sudermania. He
married a Princess of Baden, and, after a variety of
unfortunate events, he abdicated the throne on the
29th of March, 1809. His death was occasioned by
an affection of the chest, which was not considered
dangerous. He has left a son, who is a general in
the Austrian service.
Wednesday, 15th.-The reports from England of
a change in the Ministry become more and more
prevalent. The talents displayed by Sir R. Peel
and Sir James Graham in the late debates on the
Irish Municipal Question so far threw their oppo-
nents into the shade that they seemed unequal to a
contest on which they pledged themselves to stake
their continuance in office. The "Quotidienne
says, the Whig Cabinet, hitherto led on by an Irish
firebrand, has run its race. It has for a time de-
ceived the nation.
""
The affairs of Don Carlos seem to wear an unfa-
vourable aspect; complaints are made of want of
money, and an expedition is preparing at St. Sebas-
tian's under Evans, in which the legion is to be
reinforced by a body of Spanish troops, and an
attack is forthwith to be made on the Carlist lines.
It is said that Gomez, while preparing to fly to
France with his booty, was arrested, and brought
before a Council of War at Duranjo; from thence
he was sent to the Castle of Garbara.
The Government at Madrid remains on no very
solid foundation. Mendizabal is unable to raise
money for the public exigencies, and has been pub-
1837.]
119
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
licly insulted by the soldier Garcia, who headed the
insurrection at St. Ildefonso.
Thursday, 16th.—A book has lately been pub-
lished called the "Posthumous Memoirs of Wraxall:"
I trust that if this Journal should ever meet the
public eye, it may be allowed to have more claims
to veracity than those "Memoirs." Among other
calumnies they impute to Mr. Pitt a venality, which
was not only belied by his disinterested conduct
through life, but attested by the poverty in which
he died. I have heard many anecdotes of that great
man from my father, who, when Governor of the
Bank at a very awful crisis of public affairs, 1797,
had frequent communications with him both of a
public and private nature, and he always expressed
his deep conviction of Mr. Pitt's highly disinterested
conduct. It is possible that many of those who enjoyed
his intimacy may have availed themselves of the in-
formation which they derived from him to speculate
with advantage in the funds; but so ignorant was the
Premier of these circumstances, that he once said to
my father, with great naïveté, "So little do public
events influence the financial system as I should
have expected, that had I been a speculator, with all
my means of information, I should have been a
ruined man. At that period I was a boy, and how
often have I rode over with my father to Holwood
from Freelands, where we lived, and while he was
closeted with the Minister I was left to wait in the
dining-room, which I had full time to explore. The
furniture was of the most simple description; I re-
member a chaise longue was drawn near the fire-
""
I 4
120
[FEB.
JOURNAL OF
place, on which he might be supposed to have
thrown himself on his arrival from town, when jaded
by a long and stormy debate in the House; a few
books lay on a hanging shelf within reach, amongst
which I recollect a pocket Virgil, marked and dogs-
eared in every part of the Æneid. It may be recol-
lected that the quotations in his speeches were
generally taken from that source. No Minister was
ever the subject of so many caricatures, or of so
much virulent abuse from the Opposition, as Pitt;
even his predilection for a bottle of port, which after
his violent exertions in debate was probably neces-
sary to his existence, was imputed to him as an
excess. One of the best of these, called "Uncorking
old Sherry," (alluding to the debate on the Regency
Bill, when some remarks from him roused the ire of
Sheridan,) represents Pitt uncorking a bottle and
completely inundated with the effervescent contents,
while the bloated countenance and red nose of She-
ridan is apparent in the foam. One vulgar paper
gave the following character of him in dog-Latin :
Warcarry onissimus, taxgatherissimus, vinum guz-
zleando potentissimus, prettygirlibus indifferentissi-
mus, et filius bitchæ damnatissimus.'
Notwithstanding the untruths and calumnies in
"Wraxall," there is one point in which he may pass
muster: he seems to give a fair account of the
debates which occurred during his time in Parlia-
ment; and, notwithstanding the irritation which
existed between parties at that period, and the vio-
lent speeches which were occasionally made in the
heat of debate, it is impossible to deny that a spirit
1837.]
121
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
of high gentlemanly feeling and conduct existed
then, which is become much less apparent among
their reformed descendants.
Fox-the political rival of Pitt-was exempted
from the failing that promoted the late sittings of
the Tory Cabinet dinners of that day, where Lord
Bath, Lord Sidmouth, and Dundas were formidable
winebibbers. But he was the most undaunted and
the most unsuccessful gambler at Brookes's. He was
often heard to say that the greatest pleasure in life
was winning at hazard, and the next approaching to
it, was losing at hazard. He frequently sat up at
play till a late hour in the morning, then, without
going to bed, adjourned to the House of Commons,
and spoke with his usual eloquence. As the epigram
said, he was often in distress for money:-
"In gaming, indeed, he's the stoutest of cocks,
No man will play deeper than this Mr. Fox.”
"If he touches a card—if he rattles a box-
Away fly the guineas of this Mr. Fox."
"He has met, I'm afraid, with so many hard knocks,
That cash is not plenty with this Mr. Fox."*
Friday, 17th.-An event occurred the other day
at Port Louis, near L'Orient, which has created
much sensation in that neighbourhood. A young
lady who was waltzing at a ball, suddenly felt the
hand of her partner become of an icy coldness; she
looked at his features, and beholding a deadly pale-
ness, and the muscles of his countenance dreadfully
* These lines were written by General Fitzpatrick upon Stephen
Fox, the elder brother of Charles Fox.
122
[FEB.
JOURNAL OF
distorted, she gave a cry and lost her senses. Both
the dancers lay prostrate on the ground. Every
one ran to their assistance, and by degrees she was
recovered from her fainting fit, but when they
attempted to raise her partner he was a corpse. The
young lady remains in a distressing state of mind;
she maintains her dancer had ceased to exist for
several seconds, and that she had waltzed round the
room with a corpse.
An extensive fire has taken place at the Palace
of the King of Naples: the apartments of the Queen
Mother and of the Count de Syracuse have been
entirely consumed, with other parts of the mansion;
there seems to be a sad fatality attached to the mar-
riage of an archduchess.
The negotiations opened by Mendizabal to obtain
money on the mortgage of the island of Cuba, pro-
ceed but slowly, and it is nearly certain that they
will fail. It is said that a very energetic note on
the subject has been addressed by the ambassador of
the United States to the Minister of Finance. The
American envoy declares that his Government will
never consent to the cession of Cuba, nor suffer the
English to set foot on the island. This possession,
according to the diplomatist in question, must remain
Spanish, or be declared independent.
The following is given as an unpublished letter
written by Napoleon to Talma, after the siege of
Toulon :
"I have fought like a lion for the Republic. But,
my good friend Talma, as my reward I am left to
die with hunger. I am at the end of all my resources.
1837.]
123
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
That miserable fellow Aubry (then Minister of War)
leaves me in the mire when he might do something
for me.
"I feel that I have the power of doing more than
Generals Santerre and Rossignol, and yet they
cannot find a corner for me in La Vendée, or else-
where, to give me employment. You are happy :
your reputation depends upon yourself alone. Two
hours passed on the boards bring you before the
public, whence all glory emanates. But for us
soldiers, we are forced to pay dearly for fame upon
an extensive stage, and, after all, we are not al-
lowed to attain it. Therefore do not regret the
path you have chosen. Remain upon your theatre.
Who knows if I shall ever appear again upon mine.
I have seen Monvel (a distinguished comedian); he
is a true friend. Barras, President of the Directory,
makes fine promises, but will he keep them? I doubt
it. In the meantime I am reduced to my last sous.
Have you a few crowns to spare me? I will not
refuse them, and promise to repay you out of the
first kingdom I win by my sword.
How happy
were the heroes of Ariosto; they had not to depend
upon a Minister of War.
"Adieu. Yours,
"BONAPARTE."
Saturday, 18th.-The Duke of Brunswick has
gained a cause in the Courts here against our Duke
of Cambridge for damages resulting from interference
in his affairs, and has obtained a verdict for 120,000
francs.
The police had long been watching a journeyman
124
[FEB.
JOURNAL OF
mechanic named Champion, having obtained infor-
mation that he was constructing a new infernal
machine. He was arrested yesterday morning; but,
being left a short time alone in his prison, he took
advantage of the opportunity, and hung himself with
his cravat.
Serjeant Garcia has not yet been brought to trial,
and M. Mendizabal is said to be in no hurry for the
decision of his case, especially before the bar of public
opinion. It is added, that the Minister is apprehen-
sive of certain inconvenient revelations on the subject.
of the events at La Granja.
The Carlists are making every exertion to resist the
approaching attacks from the Anglo-Christine forces.
Tuesday, 21st.-The Abbé de Pradt, who as a
literary character and a diplomatist, has always stood
higher in his own opinion than in that of the world,
is now past eighty; and although the little talent he
may have once possessed is sensibly on the wane, his
self-sufficiency remains unimpaired. He has lately
published a political brochure, in commenting on
which the "Corsaire" takes upon itself the office
imposed on Gil Blas by the Archbishop of Grenada,
which will probably be as palateable to the Abbé as
it was to his Eminence.
A friend of mine dined the other day in company
with a large party, amongst whom were M. Berryer,
the orator, and the Abbé de Pradt. When coffee
was announced, and the gentlemen had retired to
the salon, Berryer, who had several visits to pay
the evening, was looking for his hat, and preparing
to take his departure; at this moment the Abbé lays
in
1837.]
125
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
violent hands upon him, and, not regarding his ex-
cuses, insists upon his giving him attention for five
minutes. 66
Asseyons nous un instant sur ce canapé,
j'ai quelque chose à vous dire." M. Berryer, finding
that escape was impossible, resigns himself to his
fate, expressing, by a glance to the company, how
much he was annoyed by the proposal, and after a
conversation (in which the Abbé was the principal
speaker) had lasted a full half-hour, seized a moment
of pause, and retired.
As he left the room, the Abbé came up to my
friend and said to him, "Quelle est votre opinion
sur M. Berryer?" He said, without hesitation,
"C'est un homme de très grand talent, un orateur
très distingué; son éloquence a peut-être plus de
brillant que de profondeur, mais je le crois bien digne
de la réputation qu'il s'est acquise." The Abbé,
who had been little satisfied with his interview, im-
mediately seized the point, and said, "Je partage
complétement votre opinion. M. Berryer n'est rien
moins que profond dans ses idées; voila une demi
heure que je cause avec lui, et je ne crois vraiment
pas qu'il ait compris un mot de ce que je lui ai dit.”
Wednesday, 22nd.-The fire at the Palace at
Naples was not extinguished without great difficulty.
In order to prevent its communicating to the Théâtre
San Carlos, a wall eight feet in thickness was raised.
The library and the magnificent collection of pictures
have been destroyed. The Prince of Syracuse nar-
rowly escaped. The cause of the fire is not known.
Several persons have been examined touching the
plot of Champion, but no discovery made. It would
126
[FEB.
JOURNAL OF
seem that all regicides were either isolated assassins,
acting from a settled purpose, or firm in their oath
of secrecy, as there is no instance of their making
any confession of their accomplices. Ravaillac,
Damiens, Louvel, and those of later date, have all
died true to their cause, without leaving any clue to
the instigators behind the curtain; and thus, though
defeated in their immediate object, they still leave
their victim a prey to future alarm.
our “
Thursday, 23rd.-I went to the Français to see
the new piece by Scribe, called "the Camaraderie,"
which has had great success. It is in the style of
"Critic," unmasking the manoeuvres by which
certain charlatans in literature attempt to puff each
other into public notice; there is much wit in the
dialogue, some severe hits on the Chamber of Depu-
ties, and the characters one and all are admirably
supported.
Friday, 24th. A young man named Edm.
Mourra, residing at Marle, dressed himself as a
Pierrot, during the Carnival, and accompanied by
some friends repaired to the masked ball in that
town. After frequent libations of punch, and con-
siderable exertions in the quadrille, Mourra fell sud-
denly on the ground, apparently in a fit; attempts to
bleed him were ineffectual, and it was soon found
that he was dead.
On the following day his father gave notice to the
curate to prepare for the funeral, but the priest
obstinately refused to perform the service.
parents applied to the Mayor of the Commune, who
certified in his double character of magistrate and
The
1837.]
127
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
physician, that the young man had died of a com-
plaint in the heart, which had long threatened his
existence. The curate, still inexorable, declined
officiating, unless the Bishop of Soissons would
sanction the ceremony. The Bishop confirmed the
refusal of his minister, and the body was conveyed
to the grave without any religious attendance, but
accompanied by the municipal officers and the whole
population of the district, who by their numbers ex-
pressed their disapprobation of their intolerant pastor.
Lord Granville tells me that a telegraphic dispatch
has announced to the French Ministry the division
in the House of Commons on the Irish Municipal
question, being a majority of 80 in favour of the
measure.
Saturday, 25th. A law has just been promulgated
here prohibiting the sale, and indeed the possession,
of pocket pistols, which hitherto had been per-
mitted. Every day seems to produce some new and
trifling but vexatious act of arbitrary power. The
numerous unfounded arrests, constant prosecutions
of the daily press, and trumpery prohibitions of this
nature give no time for public irritation to subside;
and when this order of things is compared with the
fine promises that were made by Louis-Philippe on his
ascending the throne, can it be wondered that the
great mass of the nation who wished for liberty as
well as good order, should feel indignant at the decep-
tion which has been practised upon them? I hear
various foreigners eloquent in praise of the talents
and sagacity of this monarch; they look to the peace
of Europe, which he certainly has contributed to pre-
128
[FEB.
JOURNAL OF
serve, to the repression of revolutionary principles in
France, which he has directed all his energies to
subdue,—so far let justice be done to him; but a
Frenchman may be allowed to claim something
farther at his hands, than the applause of Europe,
and the extinction of those who are opposed to his
domination at home: he never contemplated the
daily encroachments which are now made on his
liberty as a citizen, and the galling espionnage which
is hourly exercised by a host of police agents over his
most trifling actions; and while these agents, powerful
as to vexation, are inefficient as to protection of life
and property, a jealous edict prohibits the possession
of means of defence. The policy of Louis-Philippe
may have its admirers, but every day's experience
proves that it must ultimately be fatal to himself.
There will be a succession of plots, and a suc-
cession of prohibitory edicts; every attempt at in-
subordination will produce a fresh shackle on the
liberties of the subject, which will increase instead of
allaying the discontent; even the very means of re-
pression increase the sources of the evil; and if every
year adds to the unpopularity of the system, where
can Louis-Philippe find rest but in the grave?
I hear occasionally some who are connected with
the revolutionary party say, that they would admit
of a compact with him,—that if he would resign the
crown, they might, under certain circumstances, ac-
knowledge the Duke of Orleans, as one who might
be more faithful to his trust; but as for himself, the
die was cast, he had proved himself so faithless to
his professions, that peace with him was impossible.
1837.]
129
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
This is the enviable distinction to which all his
machinations have been directed since the restoration
of the Bourbons in 1814. I was talking last night
to Count C. De Mornay, who is now the French
Minister at Stockholm, and was in London in 1829,
at the time when the present Duke of Orleans came
over for a short visit. It was at the period of Prince
Polignac's nomination to be Prime Minister, when
much discontent existed here against the policy of
Charles X., and the appointment of a bigoted
Minister gave cause for more serious apprehensions.
Mornay was one night at the theatre with the Duke,
who was conversing with him openly on the state of
public affairs in France; much speculation as to the
future was reciprocally expressed, but when Mornay
hazarded the expression, that so rash a system might
eventually lead to great changes even in the dynasty,
the Duke suddenly became mute and changed the
conversation.
I asked Mornay also, whether he thought that
Prince Oscar would succeed his father on the throne
of Sweden, without any interruption; his reply was
in the affirmative, as he was a favourite with the
army and the aristocracy, and Gustavson had no
adherents to his cause.
Tuesday, 28th.—I find the following note in page
141. of my journal when in Russia in 1830. "I met
last night at Baron Rehausen's the Byron of Russia ;
his name is Pouschkin, the celebrated and almost the
only poet in Russia. His poems are read with delight
by his countrymen, who alone can appreciate their
merit, and his labours are not without reward: he
VOL. III.
K
130
[FEB.
JOURNAL OF
can always command 10 roub. for every line from
his publisher. In his person and manners I could
observe nothing remarkable except a want of attention
to cleanliness, which is sometimes the failing of men
of genius, and an undisguised propensity to gambling;
indeed the only notable expression which dropped
from him during the evening was this, 'J'aimerois
mieux mourir que ne pas jouer.'
The papers to-day announce the following termi-
nation of his mortal career. "The celebrated
Pouschkin, the most distinguished poet of Russia,
has been killed in a duel at St. Petersburg with his
brother-in-law M. d'Anthés, a French officer in the
Russian service, and the adopted son of a foreign
minister* accredited to this Court; the quarrel,
which has terminated so fatally, originated in some
family disputes.† The deceased survived his wound
only about two hours, his adversary has also been
seriously wounded.
Yesterday died here General Count Frank Dillon,
formerly in the English service, and successor to
Livry as Director of the Salon des Etrangers.
I called upon Montrond in the Rue Blanche, and
found him in his round drawing-room au quatrième,
which commands a view of all Paris: the house was
built by the celebrated Maréchal de Richelieu as a
petite maison in the suburbs for his private parties,
in the middle of a little park; it owes its form of a
* Haeckert, the Dutch Minister at Petersburg.
† D'Anthés had married Pouschkin's sister, and was trying to
seduce his wife.
1837.]
131
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
lofty round tower to the malicious spirit of the owner,
who wished to intercept the magnificent view from
one of his neighbours. I found him very weak and
making little progress towards recovery, but very
much alive to every thing that is going on in the
world, and particularly occupied with what is passing
in London.
*
*
*
*
*
Wednesday, March 1st.-Pietro Bonaparte, son of
Lucien, had obtained from the supreme tribunal a
commutation of the capital penalty pronounced
against him, into fourteen years' solitary confinement ;
the Pope has since mitigated this sentence to per-
petual banishment from Rome and the Roman States.
The young prince, escorted by an officer of gen-
darmerie, has left Rome for Civita Vecchia, whence
he will embark for England.
General Count de Villelume died yesterday: his
wife, who died at Avignon, was the heroic Madlle.
de Sombreuil, who during the Reign of Terror sub-
mitted to drink a goblet of blood, in order to save
her father from the hands of his butchers.
Thursday, 2nd. - The day of the Mi-carême, and
the maskers again appeared on the Boulevards; the
ballrooms were opened at night, and the scenes of
Mardi Gras were repeated till a late hour.
A letter from Madame Berchtold at Milan an-
nounces the marriage of her sister Charlotte Strachan,
with one of the Zichy family, an Hungarian noble-
man, without fortune, but Lord Hertford gives his
ward 50,000 down, and promises more at his
death.
K 2
132
[MARCH,
JOURNAL OF
Monday, 6th.-A letter from London says that
Lord Wharncliffe is trying to play the same game
in the House of Lords on the Irish Municipal Bill
that he did on the Reform Bill, but the Duke, Peel,
and Lyndhurst so perfectly agree on the subject that
he will be obliged to follow them.
The Chamber of Deputies has been occupied
with a new law called the disjunctive, which is to
deprive the soldier, when brought to trial for poli-
tical offences, of the right of jury, and subject him
at once to the ordeal of a court-martial. The first
inference to be drawn from it is the suspicious state
of the army itself, which is discontented at its present
inactivity, more particularly the subaltern officers,
who see every road to promotion and distinction
hermetically sealed up to them, and this in fact is
another source of alarm and anxiety to the present
dynasty. The debate is continued with as much
vigour as is possible in an Assembly where eloquence
is confined to so few speakers. Dupin and Berryer
are almost the only exceptions, and they have signa-
lised themselves in opposing the bill, which will still
be carried by ministerial influence. The latter con-
cluded his speech yesterday in nearly the following
terms:
"What could be the meaning of this law in a
country where the sovereignty of the people passed
for a recognised principle? The jury was the repre-
sentative of the people, yet this institution of the
jury was to be denounced as suspicious. With re-
gard to the verdict of Strasbourg: suppose for a
moment that the present law had been enacted pre-
1837.]
133
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
vious to that verdict, and that a court-martial would
have condemned those whom a jury would have
acquitted. Fancy the civilians absolved and their
military accomplices condemned. Two gates open
before your eyes. Forth from the portals of the one
issues a funeral procession, slow and solemn, com-
posed of men marching to the scaffold and the grave.
Forth from the other gaily goes forth a group of
acquitted and joyous citizens amid the plaudits of
their friends and in the full pomp of a triumphant
ovation."
All tends to prove the horrible state of this
country, and the elements of disturbance which are
in operation around us.
Tuesday, 7th.—To the great surprise of the
Ministry, who counted upon a certain majority, the
Disjunctive Bill has been yesterday rejected in the
Chamber by a majority of 2. The Duc de Fitz-
James and the Carlists at the club hailed the decision
with rapture; they exulted in this discomfiture of the
Cabinet, as if the road to the throne was opened
for Henri V.; not recollecting that if the present
system were overthrown, it is not their party that
would reap the advantage. One of them said to me,
"You see we hold the balance of the Chamber in
our hands, we can turn the scale on either side by
our votes."
"Yes," I replied, "as the Radicals can
do in our Parliament." He was not pleased with
the comparison.
The other day Lord Anglesey went to the Tui-
leries, and was received with great attention by Louis-
Philippe, who offered to take him to Versailles and
K 3
134
[MARCH,
JOURNAL OF
show him the Museum, adding, "You need not be
afraid, my lord, my carriage is bullet-proof." The
trial of Meunier is still deferred in the hope of gaining
some fresh information as to his accomplices; several
arrests have lately taken place all among the working
classes, but without any important results.
Wednesday, 8th.-One of the most singular in-
stances of skill at the game of chess took place the
other day at the club room in the Rue de Menars.
M. de Labourdonnaye has beaten two well-known
and excellent players, M. Bonfil, and M. Lecrivain,
who played their games at the same time on two
different boards, M. de Labourdonnaye keeping his
back turned to them during the whole of the play,
and directing his moves merely from memory and
calculation. The games were finished in an hour
and a half. The room was crowded to excess, and
the attention of the players was in no ways disturbed
by the noise around them.
Eight years ago a labouring man in the depart-
ment of the Loire was found murdered in a wood
near his house, and his dog sitting near the body.
No clue could be gained to the perpetrators of the
crime, and his widow continued to live in the same
cottage, accompanied always by the faithful animal.
Last week two men, apparently travellers, stopped at
the house requesting shelter from the storm, which
was granted; but no sooner had the dog perceived
them, than he flew at them with fury, and could not
be pacified. As they were quitting the house one
of them said to the other, "That rascally dog has
not forgotten us!" This raised the suspicion of the
1837.]
135
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
widow, who overheard it, and applying to the gen-
darmes in the neighbourhood, they followed and
arrested them. The result has been that, after a
long examination, one of them has confessed the
crime and impeached his associate.
Thursday, 9th.-On Tuesday, the 7th, Mr. Grote
brought on his annual motion for the vote by ballot,
which was thrown out by a majority of 112, being
265 against 153; a larger number than ever voted
for it, which shows the increase of Radical feeling in
the house.
Sunday, 12th.-The spirit of opposition is rising
in the Chamber of Deputies, and the law of apanage
for the Duc de Nemours seems to meet with many
difficulties. The Cabinet hoped to pass the Bill
without comment as 500,000 fr. per annum,
but on
dissecting the value of the allotment it was found to
exceed greatly that amount; in consequence of which
the Forest of Senonches, Chateauneuf, Montecaut,
&c., have been retrenched from the domain of Ram-
bouillet, and this disingenuous attempt to increase
the revenue of the Crown has been very justly stig-
matised. A prosecution has been instituted against
the editors of the "Charivari," for some severe re-
marks on the Ministerial project, headed by, "Encore
des millions, s'il vous plait," which they asserted came
within the law against mendicity; the Advocate-
General attempted to prove it an offence against the
Royal Family, but the jury acquitted them.
Monday, 13th.-Louis-Philippe, in attempting to
reduce to the mean proportions of a riot a serious
revolution achieved in the name of democracy, which
K 4
136
[MARCH,
JOURNAL OF
cannot now be betrayed or deserted without fearful
consequences to the betrayer; - in trying to con-
vert a radical change in the principles and nature of
Government into an awkward imitation of our revo-
lution in 1688;-in endeavouring to preserve and
to maintain all that had not, according to him, neces-
sarily led to the ruin of his predecessor, and even
covertly to restore, as much as may be ventured, a
part of what was destroyed by the earthquake of
July ;— Louis Philippe-thus evidently placed in a
political crisis of great magnitude far above his capa-
city and comprehension,—struggling to stifle, and
with considerable dexterity, the inevitable conse-
quences of the principles which placed him on the
throne,—is become an object of dislike to a great
proportion of the lower orders, who look upon his
conduct as an ignoble deception towards them and
their leaders, of almost general indifference to the
middle classes, and of something bordering on con-
tempt from the upper ranks of society. If to this ill-
judged view of his own position we add the unpo-
pularity created by his truckling foreign policy, which
is repugnant to the character and feelings of the
country, though in itself beneficial to Europe by the
maintenance of peace; if we add the increased load of
taxation, the laws against the press, and the infringe-
ments on public liberty,- we come at last to the
frightfully unstable predicament in which the Go-
vernment of July has so wantonly placed itself.
middle classes of the country, dreading the violent
demagogues, and despising this Government, wait
for better days without perceiving how a change may
The
1837.]
137
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
be effected. The nation is dispirited in the midst
of abundance and prosperity, and the King himself,
who talks with indifference of the dangers which
daily beset him from a remorseless and incensed
party, is, in fact, dejected as to the ultimate result of
the arduous struggle he is so deeply engaged in.
Wednesday, 15th.—I am shocked to read in this
morning's papers the death of General Sir Henry
Cooke. I had lived on terms of intimacy with him
for twenty years.
Thursday, 16th.-Evans and his legion have left
St. Sebastian, and, jointly with Espartero, have begun
the campaign against the Carlists. A ukase from
St. Petersburg has declared the capture of the
English brig "Vixen" off the coast of Circassia,
legal, which seems to make no impression on our
Foreign Office; but the English Vice-Consul at
Granada has been insulted in the street, and six sail
of the line have been instantly sent to blockade the
coasts of that petty insignificant state, and demand
satisfaction. The Church Bill is proceeding in the
House of Commons with much eloquence and acri-
mony on both sides; in the mean time a meeting has
been held by the bishops to protest formally against
the measure.
It is said that the condition on which M. Molé
received the presidency of the Council was, that he
should maintain peace abroad, and procure a wife
for the Duke of Orleans; finding the crowned heads
averse to the connection, a negotiation is commenced
for a Princess of Mecklenburg Schwerin, and the
marriage seems likely to be concluded,
138
[MARCH,
JOURNAL OF
Saturday, 18th. -The Church-Rate Bill has been
carried in the Commons by a small majority of only
23; the question seems to have created considerable
alarm in the country, as tending to subvert the Pro-
testant Establishment, and many on the Ministerial
side have refused to give to this measure their usual
support.
Here, the prospects remain as bleak as the weather:
there seems a general impression that a storm is
hanging over our heads; it is not discontent, it is
not an immediate pressure, but a vague alarm and
apprehension of that which no one can define; a con-
viction that nothing is solid or stable from one day
to another; that a man may go to bed to-night in
quiet, and rise to-morrow amid riot and confusion.
Trade is in a certain degree paralysed; as, though the
prices of all commodities are high, none will specu-
late beyond the demand of immediate consumption;
every one will allow that the country is in a state of
immediate prosperity, but no one will dare to assert
that it is worth a month's purchase.
Sunday, 19th.-The Abbé de Pradt has termi-
nated his mortal career; he had lately suffered from
a fit of apoplexy, and was thought out of danger,
but a fresh attack at ten o'clock yesterday morning
carried him off. He had written several political
works of little weight, but the best of them, and
the most entertaining, was his mission to Warsaw
under Napoleon, in which he mentions his interview
with the Emperor when he arrived in that city after
his retreat from the unfortunate campaign in Russia.
He says that he was called out of his bed at six o'clock
1837.]
139
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
in the morning by an orderly officer, who left strict
injunctions that he should repair immediately to the
chief hotel in the town on pressing business. On
entering the courtyard no object strikes him but a
Russian sledge covered with dust, evidently arrived
from a long journey. He is ushered into a drawing-
room, where he sees Caulaincourt seated at a table
writing, and further on a man in a fur pelisse look-
ing out of the window, with his back turned to him.
His first impulse is to express his surprise at seeing
the General, who, without noticing his salute, points
to the individual at the window; the stranger turns
round, and he finds himself in the presence of the
Emperor. Struck with astonishment, he begins to
mutter some expressions of regret at the disasters,
which public report had already widely disseminated,
when Napoleon stops him in his harangue by a loud
laugh, and exclaims, "Du sublime au ridicule il n'y
a qu'un pas ! !”. a mot which has since been so much
He has since written, there was one man,
who stood between Napoleon and universal dominion,
and that man, "C'est moi!"
cited.
The following telegraphic dispatch has been re-
ceived by Government:-
66
Bayonne, March 18.
"General Evans has completely failed in the
attack upon Hernani; the Christinos have been
driven back in the greatest disorder, abandoned all
the positions which they had carried subsequently
to the 10th, and in the evening re-entered St. Se-
bastian, whither they had been preceded by 1500
wounded men. A battalion of the Royal British
140
[MARCH,
JOURNAL OF
Marines alone remained firm and protected the
retreat. Espartero is at Durango, and Saarsfield at
Los Berios."
Tuesday, 21st.-Lord Palmerston was violently
attacked by his own Radical supporters on Friday
in the House, for his conduct with Russia on the
"Vixen" question.
The depression in trade is beginning to be felt
seriously in the manufacturing districts in England;
and the Spitalfields weavers are daily presenting
petitions to the Lord Mayor respecting their dis-
tress from want of employment. The accounts from
Lyons are also deplorable, and occupy the attention
of the Ministers. From 20,000 to 30,000 workmen
are out of employ, and consequently in want of
bread.
It is at length decided that the Museum at Ver-
sailles shall be opened to the public on the 26th of
next month, being the Queen's birthday, and a mag-
nificent fête will be given at the Château to the
peers, deputies, and representatives of the great
bodies of the State, who will be specially received
by the King and all his family.
Wednesday, 22nd.-The news from Spain is con-
firmed. Evans's troops behaved very ill, and the
English Marines with great firmness aud bravery.
An extensive Carlist conspiracy has been discovered
at Salamanca, and 500 persons have in consequence
been arrested. Years must elapse before this unfor-
tunate country can ever settle down into a state of
even comparative tranquillity. The French Revolu-
1837.]
141
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
tion of '89 has changed the face of the world; it is
become the great landmark from which the modern
history of nations must date their progress. Pre-
vious to that event the tide for centuries had run in
favour of the rulers; time had more and more sanc-
tified their claims to supremacy, and the ruled felt
that submission was not only an act of duty to the
ruler, but a proof of subordination to Divine pro-
vidence. Kings then ruled by the grace of God.
The earthquake came, the tide was at the ebb,
the waves returned with tenfold violence, and the
fabrics of ages were destroyed by a rapid convulsion.
Half a century has elapsed before a semblance of
order could be raised amidst the general desolation;
and what, after all, are the fruits which have re-
sulted from this general decomposition of the old
system?
Its moral effects on European society are these.
It has exalted the passions, the vanities, the ambi-
tions;
it has undermined the feelings of religion;
it has debased and insulated thrones, till they have
lost not only their splendour, but that power which
is necessary for the preservation of order and tran-
quillity; it has rendered titles and distinctions of no
value, while it has raised the power of wealth, and
established a benumbing feeling of egotism on the
ruins of all the nobler sentiments.
Thursday, 23rd. An immense revenue is col-
lected in the United States by the sale of public
lands; the amount received last year from this
source was near 24 millions of dollars. These lands,
perhaps the richest in the world, are sold at one
142
[MARCH,
JOURNAL OF
dollar and a quarter per acre. In many places the
fat black mould is from 15 to 20 feet deep, and has
borne Indian corn from 10 to 15 feet high for 19
successive years, and will produce the most abun-
dant crops for 50 or 60 years without manure.
There is still an immense tract unexplored west of
the Mississippi, and in a few years this vast terri-
tory will be converted from a wilderness into a
garden.
In the Chamber of Deputies yesterday the report
of the Committee on Algiers was read; it attributes
the disasters of the French arms at Constantine to
three causes: -1. To the numerical weakness of the
army; 2. To the season chosen for the expedition;
3. To the insufficiency of transports. The respon-
sibility of these three faults belonged to the Marshal
Clausel, but the Committee also declared with regret
that the Government, in the administration of the
affairs of Algiers, had manifested neither firmness
nor foresight.
The weather is intensely cold; the thermometer
last night was 4 degrees below zero of Réaumur.
At Rome it is still more extraordinary. It is re-
corded in the manuscripts of the Vatican, that on
the 25th March, 1595, snow fell in that city. The
same event has again occurred on the 8th instant.
A lapse of 240 years has consequently taken place
between two epochs, at which the temperature of
the atmosphere has been equally severe.
Friday, 24th.- Good Friday. The procession to
Longchamps, which before the Revolution was
celebrated with so much magnificence, has now
1837.]
143
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
dwindled away to a few shabby private, and
numerous hackney, carriages. None of the old
families take any part in the ceremony, and the
American purser, Mr. Thorn, in his barouche and
four, seemed anxious to divide the public attention
with the Duke of Orleans.
The plague has resumed its ravages at Constan-
tinople. The number of its victims is so great that
it became impossible to bury the dead, and the
corpses were put in heaps on board the barges
every evening and sunk in the Bosphorus.
Spanish funds have fallen 6 per cent. in conse-
quence of Evans's defeat.
Saturday, 25th. Sir Francis Burdett having
been requested by some of the electors of West-
minster to give his opinion with regard to the mea-
sures now before Parliament, has written a reply
to the following purport,-viz., "that he can only
repeat his entire disapprobation of them, and of
the whole system of domestic and foreign policy;
that the measures now before Parliament are ill-
concocted, unjust in principle, feebly sustained, and
mischievous to the public. A question so general
admits only of such a general answer, but it is, he
trusts, sufficiently explicit.
"Brighton, March 12.”
A meeting has since been held by a small party
of the Radical electors at the British Coffeehouse,
requesting him to resign his seat.
Monday, 27th. There are reports this morning
that Espartero has been beaten by the Carlists on
the 21st inst.
144
[MARCH,
JOURNAL OF
There are dissensions in the Cabinet between
M. Molé and Guizot which threaten another change.
The ostensible cause of dispute is M. Gasparin; but
the real fact is, that the doctrinaire party wish to
establish themselves again in power and eject M.
Molé.
The English newspapers have recounted many
feats of the famous Dando, who was in the habit of
ordering his dinner at the different coffeehouses, and
when the reckoning was produced, having no money
to pay it, pleaded before the magistrate that it was
a simple debt transaction, and not a robbery.
Jourdan, a working man, had adopted the same
system here, but defended it with more wit, though
with less success. Having dined at the Restaurant
Omnibus to his heart's content, and being taken
before the tribunals for non-payment of the account,
he pleaded the name of the establishment in defence,
his impression being that the owner had founded it
from motives of general philanthropy, and adding,
"Un traiteur qui gratis nourrit et désaltère,
Est l'image de Dieu descendu sur la terre."
Jourdan's plea was not allowed, and he was sen-
tenced to a month's imprisonment.
From the highest class to the lowest the French
are a most singular compound of eccentricities; the
impulse of the moment carries them away without
reflection, and scenes are of constant occurrence in
society, which, to the calm, composed temperature
of English feeling, would seem near akin to mad-
ness. The Marquis de, eldest son of the
1837.]
145
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Duke, is married to a handsome wife, and both are
sincerely attached to each other. No union can be
more happy. The other night they had dressed for
a grand ball, to which they were invited, and at the
moment of departure the lady made her appearance
in such a bewitching toilette, and looking so divinely
beautiful, that the husband was seized with a sudden
fit of jealousy, and without any feeling of resentment
or ill-will to his wife, but merely to prevent others
from the enjoyment of such a sight, he very deli-
berately tore her gown in pieces from her back.
Many English ladies would have sued for a sepa-
ration. I asked how the young French Marquise
bore the disappointment. The answer was, "She
was flattered beyond measure, and proud of this
proof of her husband's admiration; and, in fact," said
the narrator, "il y avoit quelque chose de beau et
de sublime dans cet élan de sentiment." I had so
little poësie in my nature, that it struck me as very
ill-bred, rather cruel, and exceedingly selfish.
This M. de is, together with all his family,
of the most Ultra-Carlist opinions. The order-book
of the Club, which lies on the table for the members
to insert any complaints as to the service of the
establishment, at this moment contains a public
challenge, addressed by him some months back to
an unknown person, who, with bad taste enough,
had written a scurrilous remark on the Duchess de
Berry in one of the journals. He is a young man
of good person, if he did not disfigure himself by
allowing his beard to grow in imitation of the pictures
of our Saviour. A long beard might have been
VOL. III.
L
146
[MARCH,
JOURNAL OF
an ornament at Jerusalem, but has rather an eccen-
tric and wild appearance in modern society.
The marriage of the Duke of Orleans with the
Princess of Mecklenburg Schwerin is publicly an-
nounced, and the marriage contract is to be signed
immediately. The circumstance of her being a
Protestant gives additional satisfaction to the Fau-
bourg St. Germain, as it is quite unusual in French
alliances. An addition to the Duke's income on
this occasion will probably be submitted soon to the
vote of the Chambers, which, coming so quickly on
the portion of the Queen of the Belgians, and the
appanage of the Duc de Nemours, must amply realise
the wishes of those who effected the late revolution
in the view of obtaining a cheap government.
و
Thursday, 30th. On Monday died at his house
in Sackville Street, Mr. Vance, one of the first
surgeons in London. He was in professional attend-
ance on a maniac named B— and on paying
his accustomed visit the other day, he was met on
the landing-place by his patient, who seized him
violently, and hurled him over the balusters of a
well-staircase on the stone floor below, when his
skull was so severely fractured, that recovery was
deemed hopeless from the moment the accident
happened.
Friday, 31st.-I received a letter from Yarmouth,
who is in London, which mentions the death of the
Marquis of Bath of dropsy, and that of Mrs. Fitz-
herbert, whose loss will be regretted by all who
knew her. She was eighty-one years old, and her
health was so generally good, that she had projected
1837.]
147
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
a journey to Paris in May next. She retained even
in her old age the traces of her former beauty,
and her manners were singularly amiable and un-
affected. Though married privately to George IV.,
and bearing always the most unsullied reputation,
her life during his reign was one continued scene of
trial and disappointment. During the commence-
ment of her union, and while the attachment of that
fickle Prince still existed, few were the happy hours
that she could number even at that period. He
was young, impetuous, and boisterous in his charac-
ter, and very much addicted to the pleasures of the
table. It was the fashion in those days to drink
very hard, and Mrs. Fitzherbert never retired to
rest till her Royal spouse came home. But I have
heard the late Duke of York say, that often when
she heard the Prince and his drunken companions
on the staircase, she would seek a refuge from their
presence even under the sofa, when the Prince,
finding the drawing-room deserted, would draw his
sword in joke, and, searching about the room, would
at last draw forth the trembling victim from her
place of concealment.
When his public marriage took place with Caro-
line of Brunswick, she separated upon a maintenance
of 10,0007. per annum. On the accession of William
IV. that allowance was reduced to 6,000% per
annum; but all the members of the Royal Family,
and particularly the Duke of York, who to the last
maintained an inviolable friendship for her, have
always treated her with the greatest respect and
attention. She was granted the use of the Royal
L 2
148
[MARCH,
JOURNAL OF
liveries, and kept a very handsome establishment in
Tilney Street and at Brighton, where the best
society was always seen, every one without formality
evincing that nuance of respect which tacitly ac-
knowledged her elevated position, while the services
of plate, the handsome dinners, and a numerous
train of servants, all grown old in her service, gave
to the house at least a seigneurial, if not a royal
appearance. She was hospitable and very cha-
ritable.
The early friend of her youth was Lady Hugh
Seymour, who, dying young and leaving a large
family, Mrs. Fitzherbert not only acted the part of
a mother to all, but especially adopted the second
daughter, now Mrs. Damer, and has very much in-
creased her original fortune by her ample donations.
No parent could have been more attached to her
child.
The
Prince Paul of Würtemberg tells me that the full
powers arrived this morning for signing the marriage
contract with the Princess of Mecklenburg.
project of an establishment in the Palais Royal is
given up for the present, and the new-married couple
are to be lodged in the Tuileries.
The méchans in the Faubourg St. Germain are not
idle in making their comments on the occasion. They
say, "Pauvre petite, on a voulu lui donner un jeune
Rothschild, l'année passée; elle n'en a pas voulu, on
lui a donc cherché un autre !"
The letters from London positively assert that the
present Ministry will not last six weeks, and that
Peel feels confident of forming a durable adminis-
1837.]
149
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
tration. He has even hopes of gradually obtaining
a majority in the Lower House without a dissolu-
tion. We have known Mr. Pitt carry on the Go-
vernment for months with a majority against him;
but the Reform Bill then had not been carried.
Saturday, April 1st.-I had a long conversation
this morning with Nicholas Pahlen, brother to the
Ambassador. Pozzo does not cease to regret his
removal from Paris. The society and the hours in
London are not congenial with his habits; but the
post of ambassador is necessary to his existence, and
though he will talk for hours of retirement, and the
necessity of appointing an interval of repose between
la vie active and la mort,—although he is now seventy
years old, and possessed of an immense fortune, yet
he cannot make up his mind to give up either the
honours or the emoluments of office; and impressed
with the idea that he should lose in importance if he
was divested of his diplomatic character, he will
remain in the harness as long as the Emperor will
employ him, and probably die at his post. He allows
his nephew, who married the daughter of the Duc
de Crillon, 80,000 francs a-year, and has bought for
him the Hotel Blacas in the Faubourg St. Germain.
He will probably inherit the chief part of his fortune.
The other day the Duke de Laval said to the
Russian Ambassador, that a great scene of confusion
must take place before Henri V. could be seated on
his throne; that the allied Powers would again be
forced to interfere; that the hostile armies would
arrive in front of each other, but there would be no
engagement, as on the preceding evening a compro-
L 3
150
[APRIL,
JOURNAL OF
mise would take place, and the real Prince be esta-
blished in his rights. His Excellency replied, "You
are sketching out a very good melodrama for the
Porte St. Martin."
Another Frenchman the other day was complain-
ing of the dearth of talent which characterises public
men of the present day in France. He said, "Now
take the 450 members of the Chamber of Deputies,
for instance. I will defy you to point out 200
hommes d'état in the number." I could only refer
him to a scene in the Camaraderie, where a young
candidate deplores his want of talent and eloquence
for a seat in that assembly, and Mademoiselle Anais
replies, with a significant smile, "Vous n'avez donc
jamais été à la Chambre,”—a point which is always
seized by the parterre with great applause.
Sunday, 2nd.-This evening was given, at the
Théâtre Ventadour, a subscription fancy ball, under
the patronage of Lady Granville, for the relief of the
necessitous English in Paris. There were some
handsome costumes, for which the receipts with the
donations amounted to 40,000 francs.
M. Guizot and the doctrinaires have been defeated.
Count Molé remains President, with Marshal Soult
for the War Department, and Montalivet for the
Interior.
An attempt has been made to set fire to the Théâtre
San Carlo at Naples, which was fortunately dis-
covered in time and prevented. Thirty persons have
been arrested on suspicion of being concerned in this
outrage, and it confirms the idea that the late fire in
the Palace was the work of an incendiary.
1837.]
151
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
*
*
*
Lady Canning, widow of the late Premier, was
the youngest of three daughters, coheiresses of the
late General Scott. The eldest daughter, married
to the Duke of Portland, inherited the landed pro-
perty in Ayrshire; the fortune of the two younger
was 75,0007. each. General Scott was by profession
a gambler. He lived by rule to keep his head cool
and obtain at least that advantage over his com-
petitors, and made an immense fortune by play. The
Duke of York used to tell a story of him, that being
once seated at the card-table at Versailles, in presence
of the Queen Marie Antoinette, where the stakes
were very high, her Majesty took the opportunity
of handing round the petition of a poor widow in
great distress, and appealing to the charity of the
players. Scott, who wished to act the grand Seigneur
Anglais before the French Court, and had a large sum
in gold before him, cried out in his bad French,
"Voilà pour le veuf," staked the whole on the impend-
ing coup, which, having fortunately won, he poured it
very pompously into the hat which was carried round
to receive the contributions. By his will he ordained
that whoever married his eldest daughter, should
take the name of Scott, which was duly fulfilled by
the Marquis of Tichfield on his marriage, who always
signed accordingly.
Wednesday, 5th. The report against Meunier is
at length made out and presented to the House of
Peers. Two men, named Lavaux and La Caze,
are implicated with him, and will be tried at the
same time. It appears that they drew lots who should
L 4
152
[APRIL,
JOURNAL OF
assassinate the King. The trial is fixed for the 21st
instant.
A day or two since two fishermen found in the
Seine, near the Isle of Swans, a small wooden box,
bound with iron which was much rusted. The lock
was, however, in good preservation, and the box
hermetically sealed. On the lid was distinguished
some fleurs-de-lis, partly effaced, and the initials M.
de V., surmounted by a double royal crown. The
fishermen, on breaking open the box, discovered a
man's head embalmed, in a perfect state of preserva-
tion, and at the bottom of it was a scarf, some dried
flowers, and a small dagger, the point of which was
stained with blood. One of the most celebrated
historians of France has purchased the box and its
contents. The initials suggest the idea that the box
formerly belonged to Margaret de Valois, wife of
Henry IV., and that the head is that of Coconas,
which she had caused to be embalmed after his tragi-
cal death.
The proposed members of the new Cabinet differ
so much among themselves that they cannot form a
Government; and fresh negotiations are opened to
organise a new Ministry.
Friday, 7th.-No Government formed. The great
difficulty seems to be the immense grants claimed
for the Royal Family, which the Ministers are averse
to proposing to the Chambers. A most flagrant im-
position on the public has been attempted by the
King and detected. The estate of Rambouillet,
which was proposed as the appanage of 500,000 francs
1837.]
153
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
a-year for the Duke de Nemours, turns out, in fact,
to be worth 1,100,000 francs a-year.
In the midst of personal danger which never before
impended over a crowned head, Louis-Philippe thinks
of nothing but heaping treasure upon treasure, and
augmenting millions for himself and family.
The other day a diplomate of high rank went to
the Tuileries to impart some important dispatches just
arrived from abroad; Louis-Philippe treated the sub-
ject for about ten minutes, but he detained the
visitor near three hours with a detail of the improve-
ments he was making in his property; the canals he
was forming, the price at which he sold his wood,
and the whole economy of his management; all this
with a dagger hanging over his head.
Saturday, 8th.-Montrond continues in the same
state, very weak, and gradually going. M. De
Talleyrand was twisted up those 100 steps which
lead to his apartment by two footmen. The invalid
cannot even move in his room without support: he
said the other day, "Comme c'est bête de mourir."
This is the end of un homme d'esprit.
Sunday, 9th.-There is some mystery about the
influence which decidedly has over Louis-Phi-
lippe; he is in possession of some secret or papers which
might seriously implicate the interests of H. M., who
is therefore anxious to secure his good will by benefits
and attentions of no common order. The pension
which he enjoys from the privy purse is far more
considerable than people imagine; he has 48,000 fr. a
year, paid quarterly, and occasional donations from
154
[APRIL,
JOURNAL OF
the same source of 12,000 fr., at a time, when he
applies for it. The other day when the marriage of
the Duke of Orleans was finally concluded, the
King sent for Prince Talleyrand, and desired him to
go forthwith to
and announce to him the event;
command, and was lifted
s' apartment, where he
called for pen, ink,
the old Prince obeyed the
up by his two footmen to
delivered the message.
and paper, and immediately wrote a letter of con-
gratulation to the King, who that very day returned
him an answer in his own handwriting, to thank him
for the interest which he evinced in the welfare of
his family. Now this from a king to a subject may
be deemed an extraordinary condescension, and has
created much comment among the few who have had
opportunities of knowing it.
Both are wily characters, and ready to spare each
other for their own private interests. It is supposed
that is in possession of certain letters written
many years ago by Louis-Philippe, when in Sicily,
which prove the underhand part he even then was
acting to supplant the elder branch of the Bourbons,
and perhaps of others relating to schemes of the like
nature, though of more recent date.
was
violent in his abuse of Louis-Philippe when he came
to the throne in 1830; but the means of pacifying
him were soon found.
Late at night I received a letter from Damer of
the 6th inst. from Brighton, in which, after describing
Mrs. Damer's affliction for the loss of Mrs. Fitz-
herbert, who, as he truly says, had been much more
than a mother to her; he adds, " To-day we have con-
1837.]
155
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
cluded the last sad duties. The mass and ceremony
was a very trying scene. The will has been opened,
and the fortune is divided between Mrs. Damer and
Mrs. Jerningham, being about 20,000l. each.”
Monday, 10th.-The weather still cold as in De-
cember, with frost and snow. I dined at Greffulhe's,
where I found Madame De Girardin, the young M.
and Madame De l'Aigle, the old Marquis Espérance
De l'Aigle, the Duc de Richelieu, Lord H. Vane,
Mr. Tschan, the Swiss Minister, and Count Loven-
helm, the Swedish. Every one had a different opinion
as to the formation of the new Ministry, which up to
last night remains as unsettled as ever.
A great dislike was said to be gaining ground in
Spain against the British Legion, and against the
English in general. Evans is universally blamed for
his total want of military talent, and unfitness for
command. Now that the details of the affair at
Hernani are well known, no doubt is entertained
that the defeat was owing to his incapacity, as he
did not even know how to place a battalion in
reserve, or in what manner the point of Altejaraga
should be protected. His troops are availing them-
selves of the term of their enlistment being expired
to return home, and those who remain will hardly be
in a state to take the field again with any effect.
Should he, as is expected, come home to meet his
electors at Westminster, after all his previous vain-
glorious boastings, he will probably be saluted with
the title of the Brummagem Wellington.
Tuesday, 11th.-The negotiation with Soult and
Thiers was this day broken off. They stand out for
156
[APRIL,
JOURNAL OF
an intervention in Spain, to which Louis-Philippe
has always been averse, but more particularly at this
moment, when any act displeasing to the Northern
powers might at once impede the pending marriage
of the Duke of Orleans: another reason, not less
cogent, is their stipulation to withdraw the dowry
and appanage bills, which Louis-Philippe's avarice
will not allow him to listen to.
Last week died, at a very advanced age, Dr.
Bathurst, Bishop of Norwich; he was brother to Mr.
Bragge Bathurst of Tory administration memory,
and was long an intimate friend of my father.
When the Whigs came into office their first wish
was to obtain popularity at any rate, by any means;
their great object being to conciliate the agricultural
and manufacturing interests by inducing a semblance
of prosperity which should be based on high prices.
No means of producing this end appeared to offer
greater facility than a large extension of the circula-
tion; they looked back with pleasure to our inflated
system during the times of paper currency, and they
absolutely deliberated on the expediency of inducing
the Bank to issue one pound notes. But finding no
encouragement in that quarter to try this nostrum,
they hit upon another expedient which might pro-
duce the same effects, though devoid of the same
security. They gave every facility to the formation.
of Joint Stock Banks all over the country, and the
fruits of this measure are now becoming apparent.
The incautious manner in which these new establish-
ments poured their notes into circulation gave a fresh
stimulus to speculation; prices rose, manufactures
1837.]
157
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
increased, and a new scene of prosperity seemed
dawning upon the country; people were making
money, and troubled themselves little with abstract
questions of politics (as C. Greville wrote to me last
year), when they were well fed and had plenty of
work.
CC
What is the case now? I read in the "Chronicle,"
Nothing can be more discouraging than the tenor
of all the letters from the manufacturing districts
and commercial towns, not only in England, but in
Scotland and Ireland. Further failures are an-
nounced in some places, many stoppages are still
inevitable; panic and distrust are every where felt,
and no amelioration of this painful state of things
seems at hand."
I have a letter from an old friend, Robarts, one of
the greatest bankers in London, who says, that the
anxiety he has felt for the last three or four months
exceeds everything that he had ever known in com-
mercial affairs.
The hosiers of Leicester were obliged last Satur-
day to discharge all their hands, amounting to some
thousands; and such is the state of trade that their
example must be followed in all the manufacturing
districts.
Another letter says, "Even the House of Baring
are in a frightful dilemma; Lord Ashburton has been
obliged to support them with 800,000l., and the
Bank is called upon by them for fresh advances.
They are still under acceptance for a million and a
half of American paper."
""
The Government is pressing the Bank to support
158
[APRIL,
JOURNAL OF
the commercial interests, which seem as deeply
implicated at Liverpool and Manchester as in
London.
Such is the state of things at present. I can only
hope that the Conservatives may not come in at this
moment to struggle with such a crisis.
Wednesday, 12th.-The commercial panic in
England seems to be far from subsiding: deputations
have been sent up to Government from Liverpool
and Manchester to obtain assistance, and the state of
the American houses in London surpasses every
thing in distress. The measures of President
Jackson last year in collecting a gold currency from
Europe, drained the bullion markets there, and the
irregularity of the Americans in making remittances
to England, this year, added to the local causes of
mischief from over speculation, have hastened the
crisis.
Thursday, 13th.-The King receives daily at the
Tuileries the various competitors for the Ministry
with the same gracious affability: he listens to their
principles and their plans, without altering his own
views, and day after day they are bowed out of the
presence, without advancing a step in the formation
of a Cabinet. The doctrinaire party is rising in
favour again, and the Duc de Broglie is named, in
conjunction with Guizot and Barthe, as likely to
succeed, but nothing is concluded.
Friday, 14th.-There was some slight attempt at
a movement last night among the working-classes in
the Faubourg St. Antoine, but the posts were
doubled, and order was soon restored. The National
1837.]
159
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Guard are not contented, and the language held in
the common wine-houses is at times very violent.
The Irish Municipal Bill was carried in the Com-
mons on Wednesday by a majority of 55; last year
it was 86. Sir R. Peel concluded his speech on this
occasion by saying, the country could not look at
the present untoward state of affairs at home and
abroad, and believe that any man would seek office
under any other motives than those of public duty;
besides, he did not hesitate to say, that if His
Majesty's Government should make a pretext for
abandoning their offices, and escaping from the dif-
ficulties with which they were surrounded, then he
did not hesitate to say that he believed there was
spirit and energy enough in the country to find
compensation for their loss; and if the crew should
abandon the noble vessel among the breakers, he did
not believe that shipwreck was inevitable. This
was received with great plaudits in the House, as
being the first public intimation of his readiness
to take office again, and of his hopes of ultimate
success.
On Monday night died at Kensington Palace
Lady De Lisle: she was the eldest Miss Fitzclarence,
and married to Mr. Sydney in 1825. He was created
first a baronet, and then Lord De Lisle and Dudley
in 1835, by the Whig Government, though his
politics were against them.
Saturday, 15th.-On Tuesday Lord Radnor
moved the second reading in the Lords of the Bill
for reforming the institutions in the Universities of
Oxford and Cambridge, which was seconded by
160
[APRIL,
JOURNAL OF
Lords Melbourne and Brougham, but was negatived
without a division. This Bill, if carried, would have
gone to the extent of undermining these venerable
institutions, which have long been the admiration of
the world. His Lordship asserted that the colleges
had mismanaged their funds and violated their sta-
tutes; that the real object of the founders generally
was the education of the poor; and he would send a
meddling commissioner to remedy all the present
abuses.
Heard this evening at Madame de Girardin's that
the Ministry was settled by M. Molé remaining
President; Thiers and Guizot are laid upon the
shelf. Great preparations are making at the Tuile-
ries for the reception of the new Duchess of Orleans;
workmen are employed in fitting up additional apart-
ments, and an establishment is forming for the
household on the old system. The place of Dame
d'Honneur was offered to the Duchess de Broglie,
who, it is said, has declined on account of ill-health.
Lord C writes from London in very sanguine
terms about the return of Peel and the Conserva-
tives to power; he dined lately with Prince Ester-
hazy, who told him that he thought Louis-Philippe
would defer the formation of his own cabinet here
till the crisis in England had passed over; but Lord
C is much too ardent always in his hopes and
expectations on this subject. The Conservatives de-
plore the loss of Lady De Lisle, who had great
influence over the mind of her father, and was
strongly attached to their party; she was a woman
of good understanding, and sufficient tact not to
1837.]
161
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
overstep the mark in her interference. She was
also a favourite of the Queen.
A scheme was made a short time ago by the chief
physician of the Grand Signor at Constantinople to
poison his master. The Sultan had timely notice of
the plot, and to ascertain the truth pretended illness,
and sent for his medical adviser to the Palace, who
prescribed a potion, which he presented with his
own hand. The Sultan then ordered him to swallow
the draught himself, which he positively refused;
summary justice instantly ensued-he was sewed
up alive in a sack and thrown into the Bosphorus.
Sunday, 16th.-The "Moniteur" publishes the
list of M. Molé's new Cabinet:-M. Barthe, Keeper
of the Seals and Minister of Justice; Montalivet,
Minister of the Interior; Salvandy, Public In-
struction; Lacave Laplagne, Finances; the latter is
a deputy, and makes his débût as a Minister. The
only comment which has been made is, "Que le Roi
est descendu à la cave pour former un gouverne-
ment inodore."
Count de Damremont, the new Governor of
Algiers, is arrived at his post with his family; every
vessel takes out new colonists prepared with money
and instruments to extend the cultivation of the soil;
the whole country round Algiers is covered with
crops, and houses are building within the walls with
great rapidity, and a bank is about to be established
with a capital of 10 millions; but the letters do not
deny that the colony is still very much harassed by
the Haidjouts, and other bands of marauders, who
VOL. III.
M
162
[APRIL,
JOURNAL OF
make continued inroads to murder stragglers and
carry off the cattle.
Tuesday, 18th.-There is a coachmaker named
Billé, who lives opposite the Embassy in the Fau-
bourg St. Honoré, and who witnessed all the scenes
of the great Revolution. He was in the National
Guard, and on duty at the sacking of the palace, and
at the executions of Louis XVI. and of Marie An-
toinette. The former was conducted along the Bou-
levard in the carriage of the Mayor with four horses
at full gallop to the Place de Louis XV., where the
guillotine was erected, and the whole ceremony did
not take ten minutes. He did not attempt to ad-
dress the multitude, as the drums never ceased
beating, and he had no opportunity of being heard.
During the progress of the carriage through the
streets not a soul was to be seen at the windows;
the military had strict orders to fire at any one
whose curiosity should prompt him to look out.
The Queen was brought to execution in a cart.
Bille's trade was soon knocked up, as at that time
not a carriage was to be seen in the town; one
hackney coach alone was reserved for the use of
the municipality; the laws of equality commanded
every one to go on foot. When Philippe Egalité
was conveyed to the scaffold, the mob detained him
for some time on the road opposite to the Palais
Royal, that he might take leave of his former resi-
dence; he remarked some alterations which had
already been made by orders of the nation, and
approved of the style of the architecture. Billé
does not think that Robespierre attempted suicide
1837.]
163
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
when he was arrested; he rather thinks that the
pistol was fired at the time by one of his enemies,
who doubtful whether a rescue might not be at-
tempted, wished to ensure at once his destruction.
Robespierre was as vain as he was cruel, wearing
always a dress remarkable for its coquetry; gene-
rally a pea-green coat, a white waistcoat, leather
breeches and boots, with his hair studiously dressed
and powdered. His presumption in taking prece-
dence of all the deputies created dislike, and caused
his fall.
Friday, 21st. On this day the trial of Meunier
began before the House of Peers. It seems to
create little interest, and attracts few spectators.
General Count Bourke, who, as a peer, had attended
all day, told me that the three prisoners, Meunier,
Lavaux, and Lacaze, were young shabby-looking
fellows, and had all the appearance of des gamins de
Paris. They were perfectly unconcerned, answered
readily to any questions put by the Court, Meunier
criminating his associates as urging him to the deed,
which they had drawn lots to execute; and the
others denying the fact, and treating him as an
impostor.
Saturday, 22nd.-Sir H. Hardinge's motion on
the Spanish interference, which entailed a discussion
of three nights, was lost by a majority of only
36 in favour of the Government.
Queen Adelaide is ill, and it appears that some
apprehensions are entertained as to the probability
of her ultimate recovery. The King is very much
M 2
164
[APRIL,
JOURNAL OF
overset by the death of his daughter, Lady De
Lisle.
Monday, 24th. — A change in the weather, and
the first appearance of a spring day.
Lord Hert-
ford goes to-morrow. I have received an entertain-
ing letter from Yarmouth in London, with an ac-
count of what is passing in society there. Lord
Melbourne's Ministry is reduced to great straits,
but I still feel confident that they will never resign.
Lord Palmerston's speech on the intervention in
Spain gives great offence to the Allied Powers.
Medem observed to me this morning that it would
not effect its proclaimed object of preventing a civil
war in Spain. The debate in both Houses was con-
ducted with considerable vehemence and acrimony.
Alvanley's motion in the Lords drew from Lord
Melbourne an eulogium of Evans and his legion,
which from the known incapacity of the one, and
the ill conduct of the other, could only have been
coloured for the purposes of party spirit and ani-
mosity. Any reflection from the other side of the
House on the defeat sustained by these mercenaries
has been treated by the Government party as an
unpatriotic feeling, and a cruel attack on our fellow
countrymen.
The elections at Ross-shire and Lewes have both
terminated in favour of the Tory candidates.
Tuesday, 25th. The Peers met at the Luxem-
bourg at half-past ten, and continued in secret deli-
beration till a quarter past seven in the evening,
when the public were admitted, and the President
pronounced judgment on the prisoners. It con-
1837.]
165
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
demns Meunier to death; orders that he shall be
taken to the place of execution barefoot, his head
covered with a black veil, that he be exposed on the
scaffold while a huissier shall read his sentence to
the people, and then put to death. Lavaux and
Lacaze are acquitted and set at liberty, as there was
not sufficient proof of their guilt either as principals
or accomplices. The procureur-général was very
anxious for the condemnation of all the prisoners,
and the peers who voted for their death formed a
very considerable minority, although the details of
the trial must have convinced the public of their
innocence. In England a culprit is considered in-
nocent till he is condemned, and a man's own
avowal of guilt cannot be received as evidence
against him, unless corroborated by other circum-
stances; in France it is considered at least as a very
weighty proof. In Germany no culprit can be exe-
cuted unless he confesses his crime. There is no
reading more interesting, at times more amusing,
than the "Gazette des Tribunaux "
a paper that
details all the trials brought before the different
Courts of France, as well as the most trivial police
reports.
The following droll examination took place yes-
terday before the Police: -
"Le Plaignant.- Monsieur, je suis vertueux et
considéré dans mon quartier.'
"Le Président. Nous n'en doutons pas.'
“ Le Plaignant.—'Je paye mon terme et mes im-
positions avec une exactitude que j'oserois qualifier
d'évangelique, et j'en suis encore à recevoir la plus
M 3
166
[APRIL,
JOURNAL OF
petite semonce de mes chefs supérieurs de la garde
nationale, que j'ai même en trois voix pour être
caporal.'
"Le Président. • Dites nous de quoi vous vous
plaignez.'
"Le Plaignant.- Je ne donnerois pas une piche-
nette à un chat, et j'adore les enfans.'
"Le Président.— Arrivez donc au fait.'
"Le Plaignant.-'Je crois m'y être scrupuleuse-
ment renfermé.'
"Le Président.
dit un seul mot.'
Vous ne nous en avec pas encore
"Le Plaignant.-' C'est que pour vous faire mieux
sentir tous les torts de mon ennemi; il est indis-
pensable que j'énumère les qualités qui j'ose le dire
me distinguent le plus formellement."'
"Le Président.-Voyons, expliquez vous prompte-
ment.'
"Le Plaignant.— Monsieur, je m'appelle Godivet,
et en cette qualité, j'étois allé au Jardin des Plantes,
où, après m'être délecté à l'aspect des singes, j'étois
revenu près de l'ours Martin, avec qui je partageois
le sucre de ma demi tasse, que j'avois mis dans ma
poche à son intention. J'adore les animaux. Ce
monsieur, que je ne pouvois pas alors me douter
qu'il étoit mon ennemi, se trouvoit placé à côté de
moi. Etoit-il vexé que je donne du sucre à l'ours
au lieu de lui en offrir,-ou avoit-il des motifs cachés
pour me chercher des raisons, je l'ignore exacte-
ment; mais je sais qu'il me dit, en me regardant avec
la plus palpable moquerie, que les petits cadeaux
entretiennent l'amitié, et que d'une autruche à un
1837.]
167
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
ours il n'y a qu'une patte. C'étoit molestant pour
un homme de mon rang, herboriste retiré ; et je lui
dis qu'il est un grossier personnage, et que l'ours est
mieux léché que lui. C'étoit assez molestant aussi,
je le sais bien, mais ça ne valoit pas un indicible
coup de canne dans mon tibia, que toute la peau en
est partie, et que je l'ai retrouvé le soir dans mon
caleçon.'
"Le Prévenu.
présent.'
•
Voilà la chose. Le muffle ici
“ Le Président.—Parlez avec plus de convenance.'
"Le Prévenu. Enfin il avoit l'air si cornichon, en
donnant ses miettes de sucre à l'ours, qu'il appeloit
petit fi, petit mignon, ni plus ni moins qu'un serin,
que je n'ai pu m'empêcher de me moquer de lui. Mais
il ne vous dit pas qu'il m'a dit des sottises pendant
une heure, qu'il m'a appelé garnement, va nupieds,
revolutionnaire. Alors embêté de ça, je lui ai rabattu
son caquet avec un léger coup de ma badine, qu'il
s'ést mis à goûter, qu'on est venu m'arrêter, mais lui
avoir enlevé la pelure, je n'ai pas tapé assez fort pour
cela.'"
The witnesses having proved the assault, the de-
fendant was fined 25 fr. and ten days' imprisonment.
The ideas of self-importance which have been
engendered by the doctrines of equality daily fill the
courts with petty squabbles; and the pompous lan-
guage used in reciting little griefs is very amusing.
M. Duvergier de Hauranne, on presenting the
report of the committee for an extraordinary credit
of two millions for the secret police, made the follow-
ing avowal: that there would be a degree of culpable
M 4
168
[APRIL,
JOURNAL OF
reservation in concealing the real state of the country.
The army and the sovereign were the objects of the
most criminal attempts,―the fidelity of the one was
tampered with, the life of the other was attempted
by assassins. The multiplicity of these attempts
abundantly proved that they had but one common
origin-that an association of regicides was formed,
with numerous ramifications in the neighbouring
countries. In Spain and Portugal, for instance,
there existed a club known by the designation of the
avengers of Alibaud; and even in London the name
of that regicide had been greeted with acclamations
in one of the Radical clubs. The circumstances of
the country were altogether most serious.
Wednesday, 26th.-Some bad spirit has been shown
lately in the National Guard. A section in one of
the legions was noted for the disaffection of their
officers, who were displaced by order of the Govern-
ment. On the occasion of the new elections, the
corps persisted in re-electing the obnoxious members,
which has given so much offence to the Government,
that the section itself has been disbanded. Printed
proclamations have been stuck up during the night
in various quarters of the Faubourg St. Germain,
exciting the people to a revolution, and dated 1st
year of the Republic. Some of the bill-stickers
have been apprehended; and yesterday a man, pro-
bably intoxicated, was taken up by the police while
crying, "Mort au tyran, mort à Louis-Philippe.”
These may be mere individual acts, but they excite
unpleasant reflections. In the evening appeared the
proclamation that the King had commuted the pun-
1837.]
169
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
ishment of death pronounced against Meunier into
transportation for life. This act of clemency may
probably have a good effect.
M. Ancillon, the Minister for Foreign Affairs at
Berlin, died on the 19th instant, in his seventieth
year.
Thursday, 27th.-The million of francs for the
dower of the Queen of the Belgians was voted in
the Chamber of Deputies by a majority of 239 to
140; but the allusions made by the Opposition to the
private domain of the King proved that he might
very justly and without inconvenience have paid it
from his own funds.
Meunier's mother went this morning to the Tuileries
to solicit her son's pardon. She was received by the
King, who told her he had already granted her re-
quest.
Friday, 28th.-No time seems to be fixed for the
arrival of the Princess of Mecklenburg or the cele-
bration of the marriage. It was at first announced
for the middle of May, but now she is not expected
till the middle of June.
The town has often been entertained with the
matrimonial dissensions of the Count and Countess
She is an English woman, not known in
England, but she had some fortune, and appears to be
a very eccentric character. Two years ago she was
suing for a divorce, and had retired from her husband's
society, when he put a stop to the proceedings by
forcibly carrying her off, and taking her a tour into
Germany, from whence they returned reconciled to
each other, and have since lived under the same roof.
170
[APRIL,
JOURNAL OF
The other day
who is a member of the
Jockey Club, and one of the sporting characters in
Paris, made a bet of some value, that he would take
some extraordinary leap on horseback in the Bois.
The bet was to be decided in two or three days.
Madame hearing of it, conceived the greatest
anxiety for his safety. She went early in the morn-
ing into the stables, and asked the groom which was
the horse that intended to ride that day for
the pending wager, and on his pointing out the
animal, ordered him to turn it round in the stall, and
then very coolly drawing a pistol from under her
manteau, fired at the horse's head, but without effect,
as it flashed in the pan. She then turned round to
her valet de chambre, and ordered him to reload the
pistol. A second attempt was more successful,-the
poor beast was mortally wounded; and as he lay
struggling on the ground, she ordered the servants
to put him out of his pain by stabbing him with a
poniard, which was accordingly done.
When awaked, he was told that the anxious
affection of his wife had destroyed a valuable horse,
and subjected him to a considerable forfeit for the
non-performance of his wager.
The second reading of the Irish Municipal Bill
has passed through the House of Lords, with the
assurance from the Duke and Lord Lyndhurst that
the Bill should receive such amendments in the
Committee, as would meet the support of all friends
of good government in Ireland.
The distress in Birmingham, Manchester, and the
other manufacturing towns seems still increasing,
1837.]
171
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
and one of its surest symptoms-political discontent
-has already been manifested. A meeting has been
held to revive in Birmingham the Political Union,
which, during the short-lived prosperity in the
country, the members promised the Whig Govern-
ment should be finally dissolved. Thousands of
hands are out of employ, and large mobs parade the
streets before the butchers' and bakers' shops soli-
citing charity, but no disorders have hitherto oc-
curred.
Monday, May 1st.-The following act of barbarous
courage is related of Revendee Bey, surnamed the
One-eyed, who is now the object of great attention
at Constantinople. His father died when he was
only sixteen years old, and the Kurdes, his subjects,
refused to acknowledge him as his successor on ac-
count of his youth, styling him smooth-face. Having
called together the revolting chiefs, he advanced
into the midst of them, and said, "Well! you doubt
my personal courage; I will now convince you of
what sacrifices I am capable." And with this re-
mark he immediately tore his left eye from the
socket, and threw it on the ground. This extra-
ordinary act of courage so astonished the Kurdes,
that they threw themselves at his feet, acknowledged
him as their Chief, and afterwards fought for him
like lions. This anecdote has also made a deep im-
pression on the Sultan, who has restored him all his
property.
This was the King's birthday, which was cele-
brated with fêtes and fireworks in the Champs
Elysées. The levée was numerously attended; and
172
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
I remarked here and there a few carriages with full
dress liveries and feathered hats, as an attempt to
go back to the old order of things gradually and by
stealth. There were little or no acclamations among
the people, notwithstanding the late act of cle-
mency.
I did not comprehend why Matuscewitz so early in
life should have voluntarily given up his prospects
in the diplomatic line, which at one time appeared
so brilliant. He disliked his situation as Minister
at Naples because every thing was so contrary to
his English habits. But his plea is, that the climate
seriously affected his health; and he therefore wrote
to Nesselrode, asking for a long leave of absence, or
a peremptory recall. He was at once taken at his
word, and a successor appointed. He now returns
to England for his amusement, and seems very
doubtful whether he shall ever be employed again.
Prince Paul of Würtemberg put another version
on the affair last night. He tells me that he is in
disgrace with the Emperor on account of the London
Protocols; that the Russian Government was alter-
nately blowing hot and cold in the Belgian affair;
that the instructions of one day were contradicted
the next, and because the conferences broke up
without any satisfactory termination, the agent, not-
withstanding his talents and ability, has been made
to pay the penalty. Whatever may be the case, he
seems to take it very coolly, and appears very in-
different whether he shall be employed again or not.
In England he was always considered as high in
favour with the Emperor, and his present treatment
1837.]
173
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
does not say much for the constancy of his Royal
master.
Tuesday, 2nd.-At the recent sale of the property
of the Duc de Maillé, a small picture, covered with
dust, lying aside in a corner, was not put up for
sale on account of an inscription on the frame, "The
gift of the King." A broker, however, advised the
auctioneer to efface the words, and sell the picture.
He did so. It was put up at thirty francs, and
knocked down at fifty-three francs to M. Cousin,
a dealer in antiquities, Place de la Bourse. Cousin
carried off his picture, and, after cleaning it, found it
to be the head of St. John the Baptist in his youth,
by Raphael, from the cabinet of the King, of which
that at Dusseldorf is but a copy. A connoisseur
has already offered M. Cousin 15,000 francs for his
bargain, which he has refused.
Wednesday, 3rd.-In consequence of the fatal
termination of a duel that took place last year between
M. Prestat, now a sub-lieutenant in one of the regi-
ments in Africa, and a M. Hans, both at that time
being students in the Polytechnic School, and in
which the latter was killed, the mother of M. Hans,
a widow, brought an action against his adversary
for compensation for her loss. The case was heard
yesterday before the Tribunal de Première Instance,
and Lieutenant Prestat was adjudged by the Court
to pay the widow an annuity of 800 francs for her
life. A few more such verdicts would tend to stop
the mania for duelling more effectually than any
prohibitory laws. There is something very melan-
choly in the story of poor Hans, who was of a mild
174
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
Owing to some
disposition, beloved by his comrades, and the only
hope of his poor widowed mother.
insignificant dispute he became the object of con-
tinued persecution from Prestat, who on every oc-
casion was anxious to insult him. On the 15th of
April the students were employed in a course of
chemistry. Prestat was looking for a pincer: he saw
one in the hand of Hans, and required him insolently
to give it up. The other calmly replied that he was
using it himself. "You shall give me satisfaction,"
said Prestat. “You are not worthy of it," replied
Hans. Prestat then, in a violent passion, said,
"What! you refuse to fight. Then I shall know
how to compel you." Thus saying, he flew at him
and gave him a severe blow in the face, at the same
time tearing his cheek with his nails. The insult
was too public to be passed over, and even the other
students felt that he could not avoid a duel proposed
with so much insolence. Hans, also, was brave and
noble-minded. He had no idea of flinching from
the contest, and fearlessly resigned himself to his
fate. To those friends who inquired of him as to
his means of defence, he merely replied, "What
would you have me do? I know nothing of fencing.
But after all, it is a fatality. My cause is just.
God will not permit me to fall. He knows that it
support my poor
is necessary I should live to
mother." They adjourned, the next day, to the
plain of Grenelle, with their seconds. The combat
did not last an instant: Hans fell mortally wounded
in the breast and died. His comrades who attended
his funeral, after eulogising his virtues, took an oath
1837.]
175
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
over his grave never again to give or accept a chal-
lenge among themselves. Up to this period they
have kept their word.
A meeting of the Radical electors of Westminster
took place the other day, at which they agreed to
call upon Sir Francis Burdett to render up his trust
as their representative. He returned a manly answer
to his opponents, denying their summons to be the
real voice of his constituents, but so far yielded to
clamour as to take the Chiltern Hundreds, and offer
himself again for a fresh election. They have set
up a new candidate against him in the person of a
Mr. Leader. Sir George Murray, who was prepared
to stand at the next election on the Tory interest,
has refused to oppose Sir Francis on the present
occasion.
General Evans is expected home to meet the
electors in a few weeks. The Legion is described
to be greatly dispirited, and no doubt exists that all
of them will return to England when the time of
their enlistment expires in June. Don Carlos has
published a proclamation to his troops, extolling
their courage, and promising them that his nephew,
Don Sebastian, shall lead them in a month to scale
the walls of his capital.
Thursday, 4th.-On Tuesday morning was exe-
cuted, at Newgate, a wretch named Greenacre, for
the murder of a Mrs. Brown, to whom he was en-
gaged to be married. He had the barbarity to cut
her body in pieces, and, to avoid detection, hid it
in various places. The accidental discovery of these
mutilated remains soon led to his apprehension, and
176
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
he was found guilty, but to the last hour maintained
his innocence, asserting that her death was caused
by accident. Not less than 25,000 persons assembled
on the spot to witness his execution, and greeted
his exit from the world with groans and hisses. The
"Globe" states, that when the drop fell, he was
much convulsed, and at each heave of the chest and
shoulders, the populace responded by a cheer. When
it was clear that life was extinct, and the body of
the unhappy culprit hung motionless, one last tre-
mendous cheer was given which shook the welkin.
A book has lately been published, under the title
of "Affaires de Rome." It is from the pen of the
Abbé de la Mennais, author of "Les Paroles d'un
Croyant," and written with eloquence and vigour.
The Abbé is a Liberal, and notwithstanding his
professions of devotion and submission to the Court
of Rome, seems amply disposed to criticise its system,
and support its displeasure with great equanimity.
He is fully impressed with the success of the pro-
gressive movement, with the idea that a new era is
approaching for the world, that the reign of kings
has ceased, and the ascendancy of the people will
be established. And it is with this view that he
blames the policy of the Holy Father of the Church
in leaguing himself with the absolute powers (who
are doomed to fall) in order to maintain his own in-
significant temporal power, while an opportunity
now presents itself to embrace the rising popular
cause, and extend in a manifold degree his own ap-
propriate and spiritual dominion. His idea - and,
perhaps, not an unjust one,-is, that the extensive
1837.]
177
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
feeling of irreligion which has originated with the
late Revolution, proceeds not so much from a rooted
dislike to religion itself in the people, as from a
conviction that the ministers of that religion were
leagued with tyrannical despots, whom they had
sworn to overthrow. In like manner it may be said
of Louis XVI., no one could accuse him of crimes
which merited such a fate; but war was declared
against the aristocracy in France, and, as the chief
of that aristocracy he was hurried to the scaffold.
The union of Church and State the Abbé depre-
cates, and as regards the pontifical power he is right;
but his whole book proves that the successors of St.
Peter think very differently on the subject.
The Abbé looks forward to vast changes on the
face of the whole globe, which are now only in their
infancy, and he that runs may indeed read the signs
of the times, which are approaching. Thus, he says-
"La société telle qu'elle est aujourd'hui n'existera
pas; à mesure que l'instruction descend dans les
classes inférieures, celles-ci découvrent la plaie
secrète, qui ronge l'ordre social depuis le com-
mencement du monde ; plaie qui est la cause de tous
les malaises, et de toutes les agitations populaires.
La trop grande inégalité des conditions et des for-
tunes a pu se supporter, tant qu'elle a été cachée
par l'ignorance, mais aussitôt que cette inégalité est
généralement aperçue, le coup mortel est porté.
"Le développement matériel de la société accroîtra
le développement des esprits. Lorsque la vapeur
sera perfectionnée, lorsque unie au télégraphe, et
aux chemins de fer, elle aura fait disparaître les
VOL. III.
N
178
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
distances, ce ne seront pas seulement les marchan-
dises, qui voyageront d'un bout du globe à l'autre
avec la rapidité de l'éclair, mais encore les idées.
66
Quand les divers pays prenant les mœurs les
uns des autres, abandonnant les préjugés nationaux,
les vieilles idées de suprématie ou de conquète, ten-
dront à l'unité des peuples; par quel moyen ferez
vous retrograder la société vers des principes
épuisés ?"
Thus at length may be solved the great problem
of the universal civilisation from pole to pole, com-
bined with which, the Abbé predicts, as indeed the
Bible teaches, a genuine return to religious feeling
throughout the world.
Saturday, 6th.-Meunier was taken yesterday
from the prison of the Luxembourg in a hackney
coach to the Conciergerie, where he remains for the
present. Some one asked him what were his feel-
ings at the moment of his condemnation, and also on
receiving his pardon. "Quite the reverse," he re-
plied, "to what you would imagine. When they
came to read to me my sentence of death I was
going to dinner. Well, that did not prevent me
from eating with appetite, and sleeping well at
night. On the following day when they came to
communicate the intelligence that my life would be
spared, I was unable to eat my dinner, or to sleep
during the whole night."
Meunier makes repeated protestations of gratitude
and repentance.
The debate in the Chamber of
Deputies on the Secret Service Money, which has
lasted three days, was at length carried by a majo-
1837.]
179
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
rity of 146. Thiers made a bitter speech against
M. Guizot.
A pamphlet is published by M. Cormenin on the
Civil List, in which several Ministerial misstatements
as to its real value are brought to light. King
Leopold, who has just obtained the grant of his
Queen's dower from the Chambers, has issued an
order to prohibit its circulation in Belgium.
Sunday, 7th.-The King reviewed the whole of
the National Guard of Paris and the banlieue on the
Place de Louis XV. As it was the first experiment
of the kind for the last year, precautions of every
kind were taken for the protection of the King's
person, and the exclusion of his liege subjects from
any approach to him. All circulation through the
Rue de Rivoli, and all the avenues to the scene of
action were vigilantly guarded by the troops of the
line, which was attended with much private incon-
venience for many hours, and created many unpleasant
remarks. The whole passed off very quietly, as
indeed was expected; but it was not the moment to
have shown so much suspicion, after the late attempt
at conciliation in the affair of Meunier, and many
comparisons, not very favourable to Louis-Philippe,
were drawn between these precautions and the un-
reserved conduct of Napoleon on similar occasions.
The suite of the Duc de Broglie in his mission to
meet the Princess Helena of Mecklenburg is selected.
He will proceed as far as Fulda, in the Electorate
of Hesse, and the bride elect may be expected in
France at the end of the month.
The Duchess Dowager of Saxe Meiningen, mother
N 2
180
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
of the Queen of England*, died at Meiningen of the
grippe, on the 30th ultimo, aged seventy-four.
Monday, 8th.-The Committee on the Irish
Municipal Bill was received in the House of Lords,
and on the motion of the Duke of Wellington, the
discussion was deferred till the 9th of June. This
seems meant to give time to Lord Lyndhurst to
return to England, who is kept here by the alarming
state of his daughter's health.
—, though still weak and ill, was permitted
the other day by his physician to take a drive in his
carriage. He went to the Tuileries, and, supported
by his servant, was introduced to the King, who
conversed with him some time, but who is much
mistaken if he thinks that he will get back his letters.
The interview between the two must have been
curious: the one probably meditating a seizure of
the documents when the other dies, and the other
conscious of having placed them for ever beyond his
reach.
A fisherman in the department of the Seine and
Marne, who during the time of the Revolution was
living in great penury, suddenly became possessed
of considerable affluence. He purchased a property
of 300 acres near Morfontaine, part of the immense
possessions which had belonged to the Abbey of
Citeaux, and no one could account for his sudden
prosperity. This man is lately dead, and it appears
that the purchase was originally made by the noto-
rious St. Just, the colleague of Robespierre, who,
* Queen Adelaide, afterwards Queen Dowager
1837.]
181
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
notwithstanding the affected purity of his patriotism,
had not been unmindful of his private interests; but,
fearing to expose his ill-gotten wealth whilst he was
foremost in persecuting the rich, caused the purchase
to be registered in the name of the fisherman. Before
the private assignation could be made over to him-
self, the 9th Thermidor had put an end to the life
of the Terrorist, and left the lender of his name in
full possession of the property. The writings of this
young Republican, who surpassed in cruelty all his
colleagues in the Reign of Terror, breathe the most
exalted ideas of disinterested freedom, and form the
general study of the regicides of the present day.
Prince Talleyrand said of Fox that he was "Un
sophiste qu'il falloit laisser dans les nuées."
Chevalier, who was present, added, to support his
patron's opinion, "En effet les nuées sont les déesses
tutélaires des sophistes." Talleyrand, disliking com-
mentaries on his own speeches, became sarcastic
upon scholars, and ended by saying to the company
present, "Voyez-vous, messieurs, il y a trois savoirs :
le savoir proprement dit; le savoir faire; et puis
le savoir vivre: les deux derniers dispensent bien
souvent du premier."
Le
Tuesday, 9th.-A sudden change has taken place
in the Royal policy. Severity having failed in ob-
taining popularity, recourse is to be had to leniency.
This day's " Moniteur" announces a general amnesty
for all prisoners now confined for political offences.
The number is supposed to be above 1,300. In
addition to this, the penalty pronounced against
Boireau and Meunier is again commuted to ten years,
N 3
182
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
banishment. Lord Lyndhurst's young daughter died
this morning.
The household of the Duke of Orleans is formed.
Countess Lobau is First Lady of Honour, accom-
panied by Countess d'Hautpoul, daughter of the
Princess of Wagram, and the Marchioness of Cham-
prereps, daughter of the Duke de Crillon. Flahault
is named First Equerry. The King and Queen have
no real household, as the principles of the Revolution
of July were supposed to exclude such distinctions
for a Citizen King. Few people in society are en-
dowed with such advantages of manner and person
as Flahault; and though he is no longer young,
there is something very captivating in his address
and conversation. His house is furnished in the
modern style, with a profusion of valuable ornaments
of the old time in buhl, Sèvres china, and marque-
terie. There is a marked good-taste through the
whole establishment, which is a happy combination
of French and English habits. By his marriage
with Miss Mercer*, an heiress of high family, the
advantages that belong to both countries are secured;
but had Napoleon remained on the throne, Flahault's
career would probably have been yet more brilliant.
The prospects of and whom I met there
to-day at dinner, have also been much altered by
the unexpected events of 1815.
,
The new Amnesty Bill includes the Ministers of
Charles X, who had been confined at Ham: all the
remaining restrictions are taken off. The motion
Miss Margaret Mercer Elphinstone, now Lady Keith and Nairne.
1837.]
183
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
for a repeal of the Septennial Act was negatived
only by a majority of nine in the House of Commons.
The sentence of Heckeren, who killed the poet
Pouschkin in a duel at St. Petersburg, has been
approved by the Emperor; he has been degraded
from his rank in the Russian army, and would have
been made to serve in the ranks, but being a
foreigner he has been expelled the country.
Friday, 12th.-For the next three days there
are races at Chantilly, where the Dukes of Orleans
and Nemours receive a large party at the Château.
Saturday, 13th.-The election for Westminster
closed on Thursday, when, after every exertion of
the Radical party to defeat Sir Francis Burdett, he
was again elected by a large majority of 380. It
is a signal victory for the friends of good order,
and of the Constitution; it is a satisfactory proof
that there is a reaction in England, and that, not-
withstanding the turbulent boastings of the dema-
gogues, there is a solid good principle remaining in
the country. This election, and a few preceding
ones, lead to a hope that the majority of Ministers
in the Commons may become too insignificant to
support them much longer.
The "Moniteur" contains an order for repairing
and reopening the church of St. Germain l'Auxer-
rois, which had been shut ever since the riots which
took place, when the palace of the Archbishop was
pillaged and destroyed by the mob, in 1831. This
may be considered a new attempt at pacification on
the part of the Crown. M. de la Tour Maubourg,
the French ambassador at Madrid, has obtained
N 4
184
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
leave of absence from his post, and it is said that
the two Governments in future will only maintain
chargés d'affaires at each other's Courts.
well
Sunday, 14th.-The finest collection of old china
in England will be found in the house of Lord
Harewood, in Hanover Square, a nobleman whose
agricultural pursuits and simple habits would give
little reason to suppose that he was possessed of such
an expensive article of luxury and taste. Fogg,
the chinaman, since the renewed rage in Eng-
land for old valuables, has in vain offered Lord
Harewood immense sums for this collection; but
it was originally made by his elder brother,
known then as Beau Lascelles, who died unmarried,
in 1814, and is always preserved in the family
as a souvenir of him. The brothers were much
attached to each other: but never was a greater
contrast seen than in the refinement of the one, and
the simplicity of the other. Beau Lascelles was the
essence of fashion of that day. He was a handsome
man, rather inclined to be fat, which gave him a
considerable resemblance to George Prince of Wales,
whom he evidently imitated in his dress and manner.
He was very high bred, and amiable in society, and
his taste in all that surrounded him was undeniable;
his house, his carriages, horses, and servants, without
any attempt at gaudy trappings, were the admira-
tion of all the town from the uniform neatness and
beauty of their tenue. The ensemble of his equipage
when he went to Court on a birthday might really
be compared to a highly-finished toy. His house,
though not large, was a museum of curiosities,
1837.]
185
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
selected with great taste and judgment at a time
when he had few competitors, and, had they all been
preserved, they would now be of incalculable value.
His life was luxurious, but short, as he died at the
age of fifty.
Went to hear a grand High Mass at the church
of St. Eustache, with fine music, where was a con-
siderable attendance; the dresses of the priests, and
the decorations of the altar, are gradually returning
to the splendour which existed before the last revo-
lution.
Monday, 15th.-The triumph of the Conservative
party in the success of Burdett's election has been
very satisfactory: the speech of Mr. Leader to his
supporters was a violent declaration of every Radical
and Jacobinical principle, which the Whig Govern-
ment affects to deprecate.
Great preparations are making at Fontainebleau
for the reception of the bride of the Duc d'Orleans,
who is expected to arrive there on the 29th inst.
The King and the Royal Family leave Paris on the
27th inst. to be ready for the meeting, and the
marriage will take place on the 30th. The per-
formers from the three principal theatres are ordered
down to give representations at the Château during
the first three days in June, after which the party
will return to Paris, where other fêtes will succeed.
A letter from Bona of the 1st inst. mentions, that
some workmen employed that day in clearing one
of the cisterns of the Catbah, found an iron pot,
hermetically sealed, containing the head of a man in
good preservation: several small pieces of money,
186
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
bearing the effigy of King Dagobert, were found in
the same place. It is rather curious that a similar
object should have lately been discovered here in the
Seine.
Lord Londonderry was presented the other day
at the Tuileries: when last here, about five years
ago, his ultra-Tory principles would not allow him
to visit the citizen king of the three days, which
did not pass unremarked at the time. On the
present occasion Louis-Philippe looked at him, as
if trying to recollect a face which he had not seen
for a long time, and then said, "Sure that must be
Lord Londonderry; why it is at least fifteen years
since you have been at Paris, my Lord."
A M. de France, lieutenant of the French brig
the "Loiret," who was taken prisoner in last August
by the Arabs, when stationed off Arzew, has pub-
lished a detail of the sufferings which he endured
from his merciless captors. He was carried up the
country by a troop of horse, or rather dragged by a
rope attached to the saddle of one of the party, till
he arrived bleeding and nearly exhausted, after
several days' journey, at the camp of Abdel-Kader,
who had great difficulty in rescuing him from the
hands of his tribe, anxious, as they were, to put him
to death. He describes that chief as not more than
twenty-eight years old, and scarcely five feet high,
with an agreeable countenance, small feet, and beau-
tiful hands, which he preserves with coquetry, and of
which, like Napoleon, he is remarkably proud. " Il
est toujours à les laver; tout en causant, accroupi
sur ses carreaux, il tient les doigts de ses pieds entre
1837.]
187
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
les doigts de ses mains, et lorsque cette posture le
fatigue, il se met à rogner, à déchausser ses ongles
avec un canif-ciseau, dont le manche en nacre est
finement travaillé, et qu'il a constamment dans les
mains."
He affects great simplicity in his dress,
but his linen is remarkably fine. He is a good
horseman, and has several fine Arabian horses for
his own use. He is less cruel than his followers;
and the persecutions endured at times by M. de
France were committed without his knowledge. His
army is small and undisciplined, but actuated, as
well as all the natives, by a most inveterate hatred
against their invaders. There was little or no artillery,
and of the worst description at that time; but since
the affair of Constantine that arm has been in-
creased, the whole more fitted for a partisan war
than a general engagement.
Abdel-Kader is not a sovereign by descent; he
was the son of a Marabout, or priest, renowned for
his sanctity, who had twice performed the journey
to the sepulchre of the Prophet at Mecca, which
gave him a great moral influence over the tribes.
His son accompanied him in these pious expeditions,
and being early instructed in the study of the Koran
and of the Italian language, soon raised himself in
the estimation of his countrymen; and when the
French took possession of Algiers his strenuous
exertions to raise their fanatical enthusiasm and
excite their feelings of vengeance and resistance to
the foe, added to his own personal bravery, activity,
and cunning, soon placed him in the high position
of chief, to which he aspired, and then led to his
188
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
present title of sultan. He is the only man capable
of keeping the French at bay, and without him they
would soon be discouraged and subdued. The in-
terior of the country is described as beautiful, and
capable, with little care and attention, of fertility
and civilisation to an inconceivable extent; at present
it offers a scene of barbarism and nudity which is
unparalleled. The Sultan's revenue arises from
voluntary tributes, which are too often enforced by
pillage at the sword's point; but they are hardly
equal to the support of his troops. Still the hostile
feeling towards the invaders will always be a bond
of unity among the tribes till they are completely
overcome; and important assistance of every descrip-
tion in stores and money is constantly furnished by
the Emperor of Morocco for combating the common
foe.
After enduring every hardship and indignity
during his captivity, and seeing two or three of his
fellow prisoners die from the most barbarous ill-
treatment, M. de France was at last included with six
others in an exchange of prisoners, and sent back to
his countrymen at Algiers; but even during their
journey on this peaceful mission, their lives were
frequently endangered from the malevolence of the
natives, who never ceased to load them with abuse,
execrations, and abhorrence. Such is the hatred.
and contempt of these Mahometans for the name of
a Christian.
On the 25th of last month was executed, at Frank-
fort on the Oder, an officer of the name of Arnstedt,
who had murdered his professor, Lieutenant Wentzel:
1837.]
189
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
great hopes had been entertained by the culprit that
his life would have been spared; but as an idea
had prevailed among the soldiery that the penal
laws of the military code would never be enforced
to the severest extent, it was deemed necessary to
make a useful and terrible example in the present
case. Judgment had been pronounced so far back
as the month of February, but the family of Arn-
stedt, dreading the disgrace which would attach to
their name by the execution of one of its members,
took every measure to attack the legitimacy of his
birth. No effort was spared to establish this hu-
miliating resource of substituting one species of
disgrace for another, but in vain; and what is more
extraordinary, his mother was one of the principal
instigators. Foiled at last in a wish to proclaim
her own dishonour, she attempted to convey to him
in prison a loaded pistol, but was detected in the
very act, and banished instantly from the town.
The King was induced to mitigate the sentence as
far as regarded the breaking on the wheel: he walked
to the scaffold with firmness, and was beheaded by
the common executioner.
The widest interpretation has been given by
Ministers to the late act of amnesty, and the prisoners
have immediately been set at liberty. The feelings,
however, excited by this clemency, have not uni-
formly been so favourable as might have been ex-
pected. Many, who conceived that their imprison-
ment was unjust and unauthorised, at the moment
of leaving St. Pélagie, made remarks not at all in-
dicative of gratitude or conciliation. Among these
190
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
were Messrs. Charles de Maurice and Verteuil de
Feuillas, editors of "La France." These gentle-
men declare, in unequivocal terms, that if it had been
in their power to continue their imprisonment, they
would still remain in St. Pélagie.
66
On the day that the act of amnesty was announced,
M. Dupin was in the Chamber of Conferences, sur-
rounded by a group of members of all opinions, who
with one voice approved of the measure. M. Jaubert
said, "I have only one regret; which is, that it was
not left to be done by those who insisted upon the
rigorous enactments." Well," replied M. Dupin,
"M. Persil (who is now Director of the Mint) will
probably strike the medal which is to perpetuate the
memory of the Royal act of clemency." This re-
partee created a general laugh. It has since been
verified by the fact. The Ex-keeper of the Seals of
the 11th October and the 6th September is charged
to strike a medal in commemoration of the amnesty.
I was asking Fitzharris* and Stanley last night
what was the reason that the late Sir H. G. had
left the whole of his immense property to Mr.
who had no connection with his family. I then
learnt that they were early friends in their youth,
neither of them at that time in good circumstances,
but mutually assisting each other, and equally fond of
hunting and other sports, which cemented the inti-
macy. When
inherited Lord Clermont's estates
they still kept up the same intercourse; but so little
were the future intentions of the one anticipated or
* Earl of Malmesbury, Secretary for Foreign Affairs in 1852.
1837.]
191
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
"
suspected by the other, that on one occasion Mr.
having lost a considerable sum on the turf,
applied to his friend for the loan of 2,000l., which
was refused, and produced a coolness between them.
When on his deathbed Sir H. G. behaved with great
composure. As soon as he was made acquainted
with his situation, he expressed no wish to live,
though surrounded by such prospects of worldly
affluence and prosperity, made every testamentary
disposition in favour of his friend, provided for his
servants, &c., and declined any communication
with a clergyman who was in attendance, which, he
said, was incompatible with his own feelings on those
subjects. Worn out and exhausted in the very
prime of life, he quietly turned round on his pillow,
and hiding his face with his arm, expired without a
groan.
Wednesday, 17th.-There are reports in town of
Don Carlos's troops being defeated. Hernani is
taken by the Christinos.
Louis-Philippe went yesterday to Versailles and
reviewed, in the court of the Château, all the students
of the Ecole Polytechnique from St. Cyr. He then
asked them all to walk in and see the Musée and the
new theatre, which so gained the hearts of the re-
fractory young gentlemen, that they saluted him
with long and repeated vivats. Conciliation now is
the order of the day.
Thursday, 18th.-Several anecdotes were told
this evening of Monk Lewis, so called from the book
which he wrote, a genius of the second order,
who made some little noise at the time by writing
192
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
tales of horror, in the style of the German school,
which have been, however, since forgotten. He
was the son of Mr. Lewis, of the War Office,
a little insignificant figure with pretensions to bel
esprit. He was sometimes invited to Oatlands, and
had a turn for epigram that rather amused the Duchess
of York. On one occasion, I remember that Lord
Erskine, after dinner, inveighed bitterly against
marriage; and smarting, I suppose, under the recol-
lection of his own unsuccessful choice, concluded by
saying, that a wife was a tin canister tied to a man's
tail, which very much excited the indignation of
Lady Ann Culling Smith, who was of the party.
Lewis took a sheet of paper, and wrote the following
neat epigram on the subject, which he presented to
her Royal Highness:
"Lord Erskine at marriage presuming to rail, '
Says, a wife's a tin canister tied to one's tail,
And the fair Lady Ann, while the subject he carries on,
Feels hurt at his Lordship's degrading comparison.
But wherefore degrading? if taken aright
A tin canister's useful, and polished, and bright,
And if dirt its original purity hide,
'Tis the fault of the puppy to whom it is tied."
Lewis had a great facility for impromptu verses,
but these are the best I remember of his. He after-
wards went to the West Indies, where he died be-
fore he was forty, soon after the Peace.
Friday, 19th. The success of the Conservatives
at Westminster has been followed up by a triumph
at Bridgewater, which was vacated by Mr. Leader.
Mr. Broadwood has defeated Brinsley Sheridan by a
good majority."
1837.]
193
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
The Christino troops under Espartero have been
successful. Hernani, Irun, and Fontarabia have
fallen. Evans was engaged with the remnants of
his legion, and no quarter was shown to the Carlist
troops. The warfare which is carried on in Spain
is a disgrace to civilisation. I saw this morning M.
Sampayo, a Portuguese Liberal, and a great news-
monger, and said to him, "Est-ce donc vrai que les
nouvelles d'Espagne soient tellement mauvaises ?"
"Au contraire," he replied, "elles sont singulière-
ment bonnes!" And so goes the world now, split
into two opinions, each rejoicing in the havoc which
its own party commits.
A curious discovery has been made on the coast
of the Côtes du Nord. The violence of the gale on
the 4th carried away an immense quantity of sand,
and thereby discovered a submarine forest, a quarter
of a league in extent, situated between the Great
and the Little Rosaire, and which is even presumed
to extend as far as Binnié. The wood, which is re-
duced to peat, is principally oak. An ancient tra-
dition exists in the neighbourhood, that a forest,
which existed on the spot, was overwhelmed by the
ocean some three or four hundred years ago.
Saturday, 20th.-A letter from Glengall mentions
that the Melbourne Cabinet is en émoi; there are
constant meetings at Lord Holland's and Lord
Grey's. Durham expected home immediately. At
the late Westminster election, the King openly sup-
ported Burdett, while the Duchess of Kent used her
influence for Leader.
The Duke of Orleans on being told that his in-
VOL. III.
O
194
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
tended bride had yellow hair and complexion, replied,
that in that case he should wear yellow spectacles,
that every woman might appear to him of the same
complexion with his wife.
The corps diplomatique is not invited to the mar-
riage at Fontainebleau, as it is supposed that Count
Pahlen, and perhaps some others, would not make
their appearance.
Sunday, 21st.-Lord and Lady Londonderry have
left Paris for London. Her father, Sir Harry Vane
Tempest, from whom she inherited all the Winyard
property, was one of the handsomest men of his time,
but one of the hardest livers; he married the Countess
of Antrim, a peeress in her own right, and heiress
to the Glenarm property in Ireland, which, added
to his own income, rendered him one of the richest
commoners in England. He was a very expensive
man, fond of hunting, cock-fighting, and the turf,
but not addicted to play. He once attracted great
notoriety in Hyde Park on a Sunday, by riding as a
hack a celebrated racehorse, who in the preceding
week had won for him the St. Leger Stakes at
Doncaster, of immense value. He was a good-
natured man, though not of refined manners, as may
be inferred from the bet which he once made with
Hervey Aston, that he would knock down the first man
that came into the stand at Newmarket. In those
days there still existed among the men of fashion
some vestiges of the wild outrages of the Mohawks,
as they were justly termed. Sir Harry Vane Tem-
pest's most fatal passion was the bottle, which he
carried to a great extent. I once passed a week
1837.]
195
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
with them at Winyard, and, though the dinner hour
was not then unusually late, he would seldom be
induced to get up from table till five or six in the
morning; and then he would not always retire to
rest, but sometimes would put on his morning dress,
and walk over the estate with his bailiff. This
irregular life soon wore out a naturally strong con-
stitution, and he died at Winyard of a fit, in 1813,
when he could not have been more than forty.
His estates and collieries, of immense value, are
now the property of Lord Londonderry *, and will
descend to his second son, Lord Vane or Seaham,
while the Londonderry property will go to his eldest,
Lord Castlereagh, whose mother was Lady C. Bligh.
Lady Antrim, after his death, married a Mr. Phelps,
a man of no family, but celebrated for his singing
talents, to whom she became attached. He took
her family name of Macdonnell, by Act of Parlia-
ment. She died four years ago, and having no male
issue by either marriage, her estates then went with
her title to her sister, Lady Mark Kerr. She was
very proud of her descent from the Lord of the
Isles, and said that when Lady Frances, her
daughter, was an infant at Glenarm, every year
Glengarry, the head of the Scottish clan, came over
in a boat to do homage to the child as his sovereign
liege. Lady Antrim had great interest in the
county, and latterly joined Lord Hertford in fighting
the Tory battles against the house of Donegall.
The weather remains so cold, that we have little
* Lord Londonderry died in 1854.
0 2
196
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
or no appearance of spring, and the winter provisions
for the cattle being expended, there is a great dearth
of forage; in some places the small farmers have
been forced to strip the straw from the roofs of their
outhouses to procure sustenance for the beasts.
Monday, 22nd. This evening at Lady Fitz-
harris's we met Madame de Guebriac, daughter of
the Comtesse Sebastiani, formerly Madame Davi-
doff, who is going to make a short stay in England,
where she imagines that she will find nothing to eat
but roast beef and horseradish.
Baron Werther is about to leave his post as
Prussian Minister at Paris, being made Minister for
Foreign Affairs at Berlin, in the room of the late
M. Ancillon.
The Princess Helena of Mecklenburg is arrived
at Potsdam, where she has been received with the
highest honours by the Royal family of Prussia. She
afterwards held a court, where all the officers of
State were formally presented to her. As she is
considered here a connection of the Prussian family *
Baron Werther alone of the corps diplomatique will
be invited to the marriage at Fontainebleau.
Tuesday, 23rd. The other day the King went
to visit the Jardin des Plantes, and was received by
M. Salvandy, the Minister of Public Instruction,
which gave rise to the joke, that les bêtes must be-
long to his department.
A bon mot of Pozzo's is cited from London:-
*Her step-brother, Paul, Grand-Duke of Mecklenburg-Schwerin,
was married to Alexandrina, daughter of the late King of Prussia.
1837.]
197
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Lady Holland exulting in the duration of the Whig
Government, notwithstanding the late anticipations
of their fall, said to him the other night, "Vous
voyez, Monsieur l'Ambassadeur, que nous vivons
toujours." "Oui, Madame," he replied, "les petites
santés durent quelquefois longtems."
The extraordinary cold and wet weather, which
has so long prevailed, has been remarked upon by
"La France" as follows:
M. Arago,
"It is very remarkable that the ancient astrolo-
gers, prophets, and almanack-makers all agree in
representing the year 1837 of the Incarnation as one
of the most calamitous. Galeotti, who lived under
Catherine de Medicis, says, 'In that year (1837)
the sun will show itself weak, as if in continual
languor, which will prevent it ripening the fruits of
the earth.' The clear-sighted James Scott also talks
of copious inundations which will drown the West,
and make folks look about them in apprehension of a
second deluge. Vavoust, in his Spectaculum
Mundi,' writes in a similar style.
taking for his basis the last eclipse of the moon, is of
opinion that the bad weather will continue until
October, which signifies that we shall have a double
winter." This evening at Lady H. Robinson's, I
found Lady Stuart de Rothsay and her daughter
just arrived from Italy. At Madame de Girardin's,
later, it was mentioned that Don Sebastian had
passed into Aragon with fifteen battalions, and that
several provinces were declaring for the Revolution,
equally indisposed to the Christinos and to the
Carlists.
оз
198
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
Thursday, 25th. The following anecdote of
Charles-Jean*, the present King of Sweden, was
told to me yesterday. When Gustavus Adolphus
was deposed by the conspiracy of a party in 1809,
his uncle, the Duke of Sudermania, was placed on
the throne, and became Charles XIII. Gustavus
had married Frederica-Dorothea, Princess of Baden,
by whom he had two sons, both, equally with their
father, excluded from the throne, and who followed
him into exile. The new King having no children,
biassed by the intrigues of the day, afterwards
adopted Bernadotte as his successor, who came to
Sweden, and was elected Prince Royal.
On the departure of Gustavus and his sons, the
Queen did not follow them into exile; she remained
in Stockholm, shut up in her palace, where her
presence was embarrassing to the Court of her
uncle, and seldom did she mix with the world except
on some particular occasions of etiquette, from which
she could not well remain absent without giving
offence to the Government.
Charles XIII., at last wishing to place his niece
in a more agreeable position, urged her strongly to
triumph over her grief, attempt to forget the past,
and make an effort to receive the Hereditary Prince,
Charles-John. After much hesitation she at last
consented to submit; and an entertainment was
announced at her palace, which was only to consist
of cards and tea, as dancing had never been allowed
under her roof since her misfortunes.
* Bernadotte, who died in 1844.
1837.]
199
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
The whole Court was invited, and all the distin-
guished foreigners. Sudden indisposition prevented
the old King from joining the party. The Queen
did the honours with great seeming affability,
and played a rubber of whist with the Hereditary
Prince and the Ambassadors of England and Russia.
After cards, the tea was served, with a magnificent
plateau prepared for the Queen and the Prince.
The Queen advanced, and poured out the tea into
two cups, indicating one to the Prince, who, just
as he was in the act of taking it, suddenly felt
the pressure of a thumb on his shoulder forcible
and significant enough to convince him that it was
meant for a warning, the purport of which as
quickly flashed upon his senses. With considerable
presence of mind he immediately exclaimed, “Ah,
Madam, it is impossible that I can permit your
Majesty to serve me!" and, seizing the plateau,
turned it round adroitly in such a manner that the
cup, which was intended for him, was placed before
the Queen and the other before himself. The
Queen turned mortally pale; and Charles-John
watched the event with anxiety, still uncertain
whether his suspicions were grounded! Was she
about to confess her crime? No! she quickly re-
covers, takes the cup, makes a smiling salutation to
the Prince, and drinks up the contents to the last
drop.
On the following day the "Gazette" of Stockholm
contained the following short paragraph: "The
Queen Dorothea died suddenly during the night,
0 4
200
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
and the cause of her death was generally imputed to
apoplexy." This happened in 1813.
Friday, 26th. The Government motion for the
abolition of church rates was carried only by a small
majority of five, and all idea of carrying it through
the House of Lords must of course be abandoned.
They may shortly turn round to their dictators, the
Radicals and Dissenters, and say, We cannot do
your business.
Saturday, 27th.-
*
*
*
At the beginning of this century the Barrymore
family were conspicuous among the roués of the day
in London; there were three brothers and one sister,
dignified by the flattering sobriquets of Hellgate,
Cripplegate, Newgate, and Billingsgate, to which
might be added their tutor at college-Profligate.
The eldest, as Earl Barrymore, was foremost in
every species of dissipation; he had a country house
near Henley, on the river, which was the scene of
various orgies, and where he gave private theatricals,
which were much talked of. His career was short,
and his death rather mysterious; he was escorting
some French prisoners to Dover, with a party of his
regiment, and was stepping into a whiskey with a
fusee in his hand loaded with ball, which, it was said,
went off as he put it down, and wounded him so
dangerously, that he died within half an hour.
He was succeeded by his brother, who was lame,
and whose excesses and eccentricities were for many
years afterwards the talk of the town.
He was
entertaining, and had a certain degree of talent ;
but, among other vices, was fond of low company;
1837.]
201
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
and from his want of principle, as well as his want
of good taste, was generally avoided by those whom
his rank might have entitled him to live with. This
Lord Barrymore was very fond of mystifying people,
and drawing them into discussions after dinner, when
he was himself generally drunk, and never failed to
end by some mischievous trick, which was very
annoying to the victim. On one of these occasions
he was dining with a party at Windsor, when the
conversation turned on the practicability of taking
Windsor Castle by an armed force, and Colonel
Cowper, a very quiet, inoffensive man, was drawn
by Barrymore into a discussion of the means which
he would use, as a military man, to effect this
object. Each began to draw his plans of attack
and defence by marks of wine on the table, as Ovid
would say, "Pingis et exiguo Pergama tota merô;
but Barrymore was little of a tactician, and the
Colonel drew up his forces with such skill, that he
proved undoubtedly to the company the superiority
by which his combinations must ensure his getting
possession of the Castle. The Earl being thus
foiled, became mischievous, and after a little reflec-
tion, cried out, "Your plan is faulty, you have for-
gotten the river Thames;" and taking up a tumbler
of water, which stood near him, instead of deluging
the works of his adversary, threw the contents
directly in the Colonel's face. Great confusion of
course ensued, but the plea of ebriety was allowed
as an excuse.
In those days singing after dinner formed an
essential part of conviviality, and Barrymore, who
202
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
CC
had a good voice, was always foremost in promoting
this incentive to drinking. He had a famous song
for this purpose, the chorus of which was Chip-
chow, cherry-chow, fol-lol de riddle-low," well known
to all his associates. It had never reached the ears,
however, of General Sir Alured Clarke, who was
very proud of his campaigns in America, and very
ready to dilate on the information he had gained
concerning the tribes of savage Indians in some of
the back settlements. Barrymore once attacked the
old General unawares upon this his favourite sub-
ject, by an affected desire to obtain some knowledge
about them. Thus he began: "What is the tribe
of the Chip Chows?" The old General, taken
perhaps by the sound, and whose information might
have been rather superficial, began to describe a
tribe of savages in a particular district, remarkable
for their cruelty and warlike propensities. Seeing
that the bait was swallowed, the questioner pro-
ceeded, with much seeming interest, to inquire,
"What were the Cherry Chows?" These also
were described, with other particulars, in the same
grave manner, and the addition that they always
ate their prisoners. Upon this Barrymore, throw-
ing off the mask, burst into a loud horse-laugh, and
said to the astonished General, with an oath, " And
what do you think of the Fol-lol de riddle-lows?"
There was then a general burst from the whole
room; but Sir Alured, though evidently discom-
posed, rose from his seat with great dignity, and
said to his merciless foe, "My Lord, during all my
travels, I have seen few savages so barbarous as
1837.]
203
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
yourself," and leaving the room at once, was never
induced to speak to him again. It might be ex-
traordinary that these impertinent freaks did not
sometimes produce unpleasant consequences, but he
mingled so much buffoonery with them that they
were more frequently treated with contempt.
I remember his fighting a duel with Humphry
Howarth, M. P. for Evesham, who was a farceur
like himself, that was treated more as an object of
ridicule than anything serious. It arose out of a
quarrel after dinner at the Castle Inn, at Brighton,
during the race week, and they adjourned to the
course early in the morning to settle the difference.
The seconds and a few friends who went to see the
show, were soon convulsed with laughter when they
saw Howarth, who was a fat old man, deliberately
take off his clothes and present himself naked (ex-
cept his drawers) to the murderous weapon of his
adversary. The fact was, he had been a surgeon in
the Company's army in India, and knowing pro-
fessionally that gunshot wounds were often aggra-
vated by parts of the clothing being driven by the
ball into the orifice, he had determined to avoid at
least this risk, by divesting himself of all incum-
brances. The precaution, however, was needless,
as no blood was spilt, and the matter arranged by a
random shot from each party.
Duels in those days were much more frequent
than at present, and generally ended more fatally.
Camelford was killed in a duel by Mr. Best; they
were the two most celebrated shots in England,
which, though the cause of the quarrel was trifling,
204
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
precluded all accommodation. Another was that
between Colonel Montgomery, the brother of Mrs.
George Byng, and Captain Macnamara, in the Navy.
I was riding in the Park when the quarrel took place.
Each was accompanied by a Newfoundland dog, who
began to fight, and each master interfered to save
his favourite. A slight altercation took place, which
could hardly be called offensive, but both were ex-
cited; and when Bob Montgomery said, "If you
have anything to say to me you know where to find
me," the meeting became inevitable; still, if the
seconds had shown either temper or good feeling on
the occasion, or had even permitted the sun to go
down on their wrath, the matter might have been
easily arranged, but Sir W. Keir and Captain Barry
were not men of that stamp. They accompanied
their principals that very evening to Chalk Farm,
the result of which was that poor Montgomery was
shot through the heart at the first fire. Macnamara
was also slightly wounded. He was tried for his
life at the Old Bailey, and was acquitted.
One evening I went into Watier's Club, where I
found Mr. George Payne waiting to make a rubber
at whist, others soon arrived, and the play began.
Nothing remarkable passed except that Mr. Payne
was anxious to continue the game; and though we
played till four or five o'clock, seemed disappointed
at the party breaking up. I went home to bed, and
soon after ten o'clock my servant Chapman came into
my room to tell me that Mr. Payne had been that
morning shot in a duel on Putney Heath. Thus he
had been purposely playing all the night in order to
1837.]
205
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
pass the time till he was summoned into eternity,
and certainly no one could have told by his manner
at the card-table that he had such an awful prospect
in view.
To return to Lord Barrymore. He married a young
lady of no family in Ireland, a Miss Coghlan: she
had a sister, who lived with them, a fine-looking girl,
who made the conquest of the old Duc de Castries,
a French emigrant with a powdered head and ailes
de pigeon, but then very poor; he made her a French
duchess, and at the restoration carried her over to
Paris, where he was protected by the Bourbons, and
regained part of his property and his hotel in the
Faubourg St. Germains. He was at one time
governor of Calais under Louis XVIII.
Gambling and expensive habits brought Barrymore
latterly into great distress; his house was assailed by
bailiffs, and whenever he wished to give a dinner,
he took a lesson from Sir Richard Steele, and clothed
them in his livery to wait at table: some droll stories
used to be told of the mistakes which they committed
from not knowing by sight the master of the house.
His health soon failed him as well as his purse,
and he retired to France, where he died in poverty
in 1823, I believe under the roof of the Duc de
Castries, who helped to support the family.
The younger brother was a clergyman, but not a
whit more regular in his habits and conduct; he
also died in obscurity, and the title is now extinct.
It is an ancient family in Ireland, and related to the
Du Barre's in this country, one of whom gave his
name to the famous mistress of Louis XV.
206
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
The Earl of Kingston was also another of the Irish
roués, with Llandaff and his brother, &c. ; he was
a man of immense fortune and of Herculean frame;
but he drank to such excess, that he died in a mad-
house. There was besides a man of some fame and
little merit in those days, by name Sir John Lade,
whom I have mentioned as having at one time had
the management of the Prince of Wales's stables,
and who married his cook, and gradually sunk out of
notice. Lade's ambition was to imitate a groom in
dress and in language. I once heard him asking a
friend on Egham racecourse to go home and dine
with him: "I can give you," said he, "a trout
spotted all over like a coach dog, a fillet of veal as
white as alablaster, a pantaloon cutlet, and plenty of
pancakes-so help me!" It was then the fashion
to drive a phaeton with four-in-hand. The Prince
of Wales drove a phaeton and six, as being more
magnificent, and the postilions on the leaders ren-
dered it easier. As a boy, I have seen H. R. H. at
Brighton driving round and round the Steyne in
this equipage, followed by a dozen others of the
same description driven by Sir John Lade, Lord
Barrymore, Lord Sefton, and other notorious whips.
*
*
*
*
*
Sunday, 28th. Yesterday the King and his
family, joined by the Queen of the Belgians, left the
Tuileries for Fontainebleau. The Duke of Orleans
went to Chalons to meet the Grand Duchess Dowager
and the Princess Helena, who entered the French
territory at Metz on the 25th, and were received by
triumphal arches and repeated acclamations.
1837.]
207
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Epsom races took place this last week; the Derby
was won by Lord Berners's horse Phosphorus.
Monday, 29th.-To-day the Count de Latour
Maubourg, French ambassador at Madrid, was mar-
ried in Paris to Mademoiselle de Pange, the sister
of Madame Marescalchi.
The accounts of our King's health are very un-
satisfactory; he has had a return of asthma, and
suffers from a rupture. An unpleasant corre-
spondence has passed between him and the Duchess
of Kent on the proposal which he made of forming
a household for the Princess Victoria, now she has
come of age, which was combated by her mother, as
it would have given the nomination to the Court
party; and it is said that her letter was couched in
very unsatisfactory terms. The Whig Ministry,
finding themselves in a falling state, attempt to
identify themselves with the rising sun.
The eloquence of Sir Robert Peel, Lord Stanley,
and indeed, of Sir James Graham, in the late debates
in the Commons, has been much praised, especially
when contrasted with the speeches of their opponents,
who, with the exception of Mr. Shiel, are not gifted
with the same talents; but however such eloquence
may embellish an argument, and amuse the hearers,
it has very little weight in making proselytes to the
cause in that house. Party influence is so defined
that there are few, if any, floating voters who are
sufficiently independent or unprejudiced to be gained
by any sudden convictions; so decidedly are the
minds of all made up on the subject, before the dis-
cussion takes place. The late Mr. Fergusson of
208
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
Pitfour, who had served during a long succession of
Parliaments, was wont to say that he had heard very
many fine speeches in his time on baith sides of the
question, and on coming down to the house he had
vary often changed his opinion, but naver his vote.
I drove this evening with Montrond in his carriage
in the Champs Elysées, who, though very much de-
bilitated and desponding about his state, which is still
very precarious, is quite alive to everything that is
going on in the world. He alluded to his late visits
to the Tuileries, and said that Lord Palmerston
would be much mistaken if he thought that he could
drive Louis-Philippe into any active interference in
the affairs of Spain.
A duel, attended with fatal consequences, took
place on the 19th of March, at New Orleans, be-
tween Mr. Naylor of Donalsonville, and Mr. Brou-
naugh of the former place. The cause of the
quarrel was, that Mr. Naylor had given the other
a bill for 2000 dollars to negotiate, which he had
converted to his own purposes. High words of
abuse ensued, which rendered a meeting inevitable.
Both were armed with pistols, and gradually ap-
proached each other till within three or four paces'
distance, when they fired at the same time. Mr.
Naylor, wounded in the jaw and in one of the
arteries of the neck, expired in a few minutes. Mr.
Brounaugh was shot in the groin, but one of the
seconds of Mr. Naylor, who held in his hand a pistol,
either from accident or design pulled the trigger,
and lodged a second ball in his abdomen. On seeing
him fall, the second cried out, " He is dead!"
"Who
1837.]
209
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
is dead?" asked Mr. Naylor, in a faint and faltering
voice. "Brounaugh," was the reply. "So much
the better," said Naylor, and breathed his last.
Brounaugh lies without a chance of recovery.
Mr. Naylor, the victim first of an infamous swind-
ling, and then of a deadly combat, was a young man
of twenty-six years of age, and a rich proprietor in
the Missouri.
Tuesday, 30th.-The Princess Helena arrived at
Fontainebleau at seven o'clock this evening. Among
the guests invited to the fêtes of the marriage is
Yousuff Bey, who expresses great wonder at the
effects of European civilisation and magnificence: he
said openly to the King, that if his countrymen
could witness the grandeur and power of France,
and the wonderful extent to which the arts and
sciences had been developed in Europe, it would go
farther towards the pacification of the Regency than
all the murderous expeditions which could be sent
against it but he added, "when I return there, and
relate what I have seen, no one will believe me."
The marriage of the Duc d'Orleans with the
Princess Helena took place last night at Fontaine-
bleau according to the triple forms-Municipal, Ca-
tholic, and Protestant; there was a grand display of
fireworks on the basin in the great park, and a ban-
quet for the assembled guests, but here in Paris it
created no more sensation, and was not as much the
subject of conversation in society, as that of any pri-
vate individual. It is said that the King of Prussia
took great interest in forwarding this match; but,
what is more singular, the reigning Duke of Meck-
VOL. III.
P
210
[JUNE,
JOURNAL OF
lenburg Schwerin has been violently opposed to the
alliance, and has in consequence recalled his Minister
from the French Court.
Thursday, June 1st. The Carlist force seems
marching into Catalonia; they are followed by Es-
partero, who has gained no important advantage over
them, but the Christinos have lost two generals,
Irribarren and Navarete.
The office of Chancellor of France has been re-
vived, and Baron Pasquier appeared in that quality
at the ceremony of the marriage at Fontainebleau.
Friday, 2nd. There is great anxiety at Madrid
as to the future plans of the Carlists under Don
Sebastian, and the Government has not dissembled
their profound ignorance on the subject. M. Cala-
trava declared openly to the Cortes that the Govern-
ment was able for one month more to provide for
the wants of the army and the expenses of the war,
but that at the end of June all resources would be
exhausted. He therefore required the authorisation
of the Chamber to sell all plate, vases, and orna-
ments of gold and silver belonging to the churches
for the use of the country. This proposal created a
violent sensation; it is one of those questions which
can never be coolly viewed by a Spanish public,
and the discussion will be most animated and inte-
resting.
On Monday last, being the King's birthday, the
usual drawing-room was held; but owing to the in-
disposition of both their Majesties, the King was
represented by his brother the Duke of Cumber-
land, and the Queen by the Princess Augusta.
1837.]
211
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Animated by the trifling success obtained by
Evans and his legion at Irun, but not disgusted by
the various and cruel excesses committed in the hour
of victory on their vanquished foes,-excesses of so
horrid a nature that the perpetrators deserved to
be disbanded at once,- Government has obtained the
repeal of the Foreign Enlistment Bill to be continued
for another year.
After a dinner that was given at the Café de Paris
by Lord and Lady Fitzharris, with the Duc and
Duchesse de Gramont, the Duc de Richelieu, and
Lord Harry Vane, I went into the Club, where I
was very much amused with looking on at a party of
Humbug played by Count Ferrari and Medem*; the
former had lost two or three hundred louis, and to
win them back was anxious to bet any sum with the
bystanders; a ring of rooks was immediately as-
sembled, and he had soon six or seven hundred louis
on every game, but fortune seemed inclined to spare
him, and he retreated with only a slight loss.
The accounts of our King's health are more satis-
factory.
It is said that during the Princess Helena's short
stay at Potsdam some one of the Carlist party took
the opportunity of saying that the present order of
things could not last two years longer in France;
upon which she observed, that she would much rather
live two years gaily in France than vegetate for
twenty years in Mecklenburg Schwerin.
Sunday, 4th.-The Duchesse d'Orleans made her
* Russian Secretary of Embassy at Paris.
P 2
212
[JUNE,
JOURNAL OF
public entrée into Paris at four o'clock. The Royal
family came from Fontainebleau in the morning to
St. Cloud, from whence the cavalcade started for
Paris. There was little or no expression of satisfac-
tion among the people.
Tuesday, 6th.-A suit is going on in the Cour
Royale de Paris between the creditors and the heir
of the late Princess Poniatowska, who was sister
and heiress to Prince Poniatowsky, general in the
French armies under Napoleon, and unfortunately
drowned in the River Elster at the battle of Leipsic.
This suit is not otherwise remarkable than as it
details the Prince's will, which he made at Warsaw
on the 28th March, 1812, under the form of "Lettre
à ouvrir après ma mort, et qui doit être remise aux
Comtes Sabolewski and Lignowski," in which he
makes his sister his universal heiress, ending his
bequest with the following advice:-"Je l'engage
à ne plus faire de dettes, afin de jouir d'une vieillesse
tranquille et heureuse par le calme." He then con-
tinues:
"Je donne à Jules Poniatowsky 15,000 ducats.
On les placera d'une manière sure, et jusqu'à sa quin-
zième année on accumulera les intérêts, pour alors,
lui laisser la jouissance du tout.
"Mes chevaux, mes armes, seront mis en loterie;
les billets seront donnés à ceux de mes compagnons
d'armes qui désireront avoir un souvenir de ma
part, et chacun gardera le lot gagné en mémoire de
moi.
"Je laisse à toute l'armée mes vœux les plus
ardens pour ses triomphes; je désire qu'il lui soit
1837.]
213
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
fait une distribution prise sur l'arriéré de mes ap-
pointemens, autant que cela pourroit s'étendre, pour
qu'elle se donne un bon quart d'heure, en buvant
encore un petit coup à mon intention.
"Je laisse 1000 ducats pour les pauvres honteux
de Varsovie; je remets les redevances arriérées, ou les
avances faites à mes paysans dans toutes mes terres,
et je donne 200 ducats pour les mendians de Var-
sovie."
The Princess came to Paris, lived in a state of
great luxury and magnificence, and, regardless of
the advice of her brother, contracted great debts,
and died in very embarrassed circumstances, which
originated the present lawsuit for her heir, young
Poniatowsky, whom she had adopted.
Wednesday, 7th.-A collection of 1352 autograph
letters, belonging to M. de Montmerqué, member of
the Institut, were sold a few days since; they com-
prised the names of sovereigns, men of letters,
heroes, and other celebrated characters in France, and
fetched generally prices from 16, to 70, or 80 fr.
each, but the only lot which fetched 100 fr. was that
of the infamous empoisonneuse Madame de Brinvil-
liers, who was executed for the murder of her hus-
band in 1676.
The numerous servants at the Tuileries look
more like a herd of fellows collected and hired for
the day, to wear livery on some pressing occasion,
than the regular disciplined establishment of a royal
household.
When Massey Stanley was invited the other day
to the fêtes given by the Duc d'Orleans at Chantilly,
P 3
214
[JUNE,
JOURNAL OF
he was asked by the Comptroller of his Royal High-
ness's household to tell him frankly, while they were
sitting together at dinner, whether he observed any
thing in the service which would not be permitted in
England? Stanley replied, "I can hardly hear
what you say; the servants make such a noise behind
us that I am really quite deaf." He answered the
question without knowing what was asked.
Saturday, 10th.-Last night died, at the Hôtel
Marbœuf, in the Champs Elysées, Earl Granard,
aged seventy-seven, after an illness of only twenty-
four hours. His title now devolves to the infant
son of the late Lord Forbes, whose long minority
will give the estates some time to recover from their
present heavy incumbrances.
This day was celebrated at Versailles by a dinner
of 1500 covers, given by the King to the Peers,
Deputies, and artists,-no foreigners being invited
that the banquet might be purely national. In the
morning, the Museum was opened for the Court
and foreign ambassadors, who were also invited in
the evening to a theatrical exhibition, performed by
the artistes of the Theâtre Français and the Grand
Opera, in the theatre of the Château, which has never
been used since the time of Louis XVI., and has now
been completely restored. Who could have foreseen
when that monarch for the last time entered the
royal box, that after a lapse of nearly half a century,
the next person who should occupy it would be the
son of Egalité, who was plotting his destruction?
Sunday, 11th.-We went to Versailles with Mr.
and Mrs. Locke, Lady Wallscourt, &c. A great
1837.]
215
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
blunder appears to have been made with the dinner-
invitations yesterday. In the original plan, 150
foreigners had been asked to the banquet, when
it was suddenly proposed to exclude them. Ex-
presses were sent on the Friday in every direction
to apprise the guests that there would not be room
to receive them; but some had already set off, others
did not get the annonce, and at two o'clock the
streets were crowded with visitors, in full dress,
approaching the Château, who found that instead of
their royal host, they must dine with Duke Humphrey.
In this unlucky list were Lady Stuart de Rothesay
and her daughters, Lord and Lady Fitzharris, and
various foreigners of all nations, among whom
Princess Lieven was the most indignant at this
extraordinary want of tact and hospitality. It was
a high source of amusement to the old Carlist party.
The celebration of this day consisted in a review of
the National Guard, races on the Plaine de Satory,
the opening of the Museum to the public, the play-
ing of the Grand Waters, and at night a display of
fireworks on the canal; but when the King and the
royal family retired from the Château in their car-
riages to the Grand Trianon, where they are residing
for the occasion, I did not hear any voices in the
crowd lifted up to cry long live King Richard.
We made our way into the galleries of the Musée,
but the crowd was so suffocating, and in some in-
stances so rude and boisterous, that we were glad
to retire, but we saw sufficient to make us anxious
to obtain a more tranquil inspection at a future day.
P 4
216
[JUNE,
JOURNAL OF
The accounts from England of the King's health
are very unfavourable. At one moment, his death
had been reported in London; but no doubt seems
to exist that his state is highly dangerous. It is an
important crisis for the country, and in no point of
view likely to be productive of any good.
Monday, 12th.-When Fitzharris arrived at the
Château on Saturday for the dinner, he was met by
an officer on service, who, after expressing his regret
at the mistake which had occurred in the invitation,
requested that he would not talk of it, as the whole
was an act of inadvertence on his part, which might
bring him into serious trouble and responsibility with
the King. If anything could render the blunder
more ridiculous, it was this paltry mode of evading
it.
Those who did receive their annonce were
simply told, without any excuse, that it was a mis-
take, and they were merely invited for the spectacle
at night. Louis-Philippe thought he should more
effectually please the jealousy entertained by the
French of foreigners by excluding the latter from
this national banquet, but as it was an after-thought,
it could only be effected by a breach of good manners.
These annonces to put off the invited, which were
only issued the preceding day, and in several in-
stances did not arrive before the parties had set out
for the Château, were, by an affectation of mistake,
dated so far back as the 1st of June.
An accident has lately happened at Hull, which
may prove that the advantages of steam navigation
are not unattended by proportionate risk and danger.
The steam-vessel" The Union" was the scene of this
1837.]
217
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
catastrophe. From some negligence in heating the
apparatus, the boiler burst, and out of 120 passengers,
not more that twelve or fifteen were saved from
death. The vessel itself went to the bottom.
Wednesday, 14th.-The Champs Elysées were
completely illuminated this evening, and formed a
splendid scene. Fireworks were exhibited on the
opposite bank of the river, and all the population of
Paris seemed collected in that quarter, which was
kept free for pedestrians, as no carriages were
admitted.
The accounts from London of the King's health
are more satisfactory, but give little hopes of any
permanent amendment.
Thursday, 15th.-The rejoicings of last night were
damped by a frightful accident in the Champ de
Mars, where a mimic representation of storming a
fort was exhibited to the populace. On the termina-
tion of the fête at ten o'clock, when the multitude,
consisting it is said of 300,000 individuals, were
attempting to depart, the throng became so great at
the different gates, that from thirty to forty men and
women were suffocated and near 150 wounded. The
"Gazette des Tribunaux" in recounting the disaster
says, "Au milieu de ce désordre, il y a eu des
hommes, qui sembloient prendre une joie féroce à
augmenter le tumulte; ils arrachoient aux femmes
leurs bijoux, déchiroient leurs vêtements, et les in-
sultoient de la manière la plus grossière."
The grand ball at the Hôtel-de-Ville, which was to
have taken place this evening, has in consequence
been put off. It seems as if a royal marriage never
218
[JUNE,
JOURNAL OF
could take place in Paris without causing some
calamity.
Friday, 18th. The "Gazette de Zara" makes
the following extraordinary statement. "A gale of
wind from the south has thrown on the coast of Rudua
a sea monster, whose body weighed 12,000 lbs., and
covered a space of forty-two yards. The decompo-
sition of the animal, combined with other circum-
stances, prevented the naturalists of the country
from ascertaining its class in zoology.
It was,
however, believed to belong to the genus Physeter,
and probably to the species Macrocephalus."
It is not expected that the King will last many
days. Lord Manvers writes to his son here that the
Whig Ministers affect to look melancholy on the
occasion, but in reality are merry mourners.
Friday, 23rd.-I have been absent with S. Davies
for two days on an excursion to Gisors, a pretty town
in Normandy, with beautiful ramparts laid out in
shady walks, and a trout-stream running through
the whole neighbourhood. During this short absence
various events have occurred here and in England.
The ball at the Hôtel-de-Ville, which had been
put off on account of the accident in the Champ
de Mars, took place on Monday, which was signalised
by another conspiracy to take away the life of the
King, but being detected in time, proved abortive.
The only observable effect was, that the King retired
at a very early hour, and by a quite different route
to that by which he came. While the papers were
representing him and the Duc d'Orleans as shedding
tears on hearing that a few of his subjects had been
1837.]
219
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
crushed to death in the crowd, others of his lieges
were again plotting his destruction. Where there is
so much hypocrisy on the one side, and so much
profligacy on the other, things can hardly remain
long as they are.
Another event of more importance has occurred.
William IV. died at Windsor on Tuesday morning
at a quarter-past two o'clock, and Queen Victoria
was proclaimed on the following day. The Duke of
Cumberland succeeds to the throne of Hanover, as
Ernest I.; and the papers say that as he passed
through the Green Park on the day of his brother's
death, he was hissed by the populace. The Whigs
and Radicals hail this new accession to the English
throne as an earnest of their triumphs. Among the
foremost in the crowd to cheer the proclamation of
the Queen was Mr. O'Connell.
Sunday, 25th.-No news from England, except
the approaching prorogation and dissolution of Par-
liament, both parties confident of success at the
new elections. Earl Cowper died at Putney on
Wednesday evening, aged fifty-nine.*
The Fitzharris's left Paris on the night that we
received the news of the King's death, to attend the
elections.
Tuesday, 27th.-Severac, whose trial for murder-
ing his brother officers has been mentioned, was
publicly degraded from his rank, according to his
sentence, on the 24th instant at Rennes.
The
*Father of the late Earl Cowper, who died suddenly while
attending the Sessions at Maidstone, April 1856.
220
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
remarkable part of the ceremony was that a young
officer named Marchette, who was appointed to inflict
the punishment by tearing off his epaulettes and
breaking his sabre on the ground, was so affected by
the painful task imposed upon him, that having per-
formed it in a very agitated manner, he rushed from
the spot and fell down in a swoon. It is said that
his brother officers placed weapons in the way of
Severac that he might destroy himself if he pleased,
and thus avoid the disgrace.
Wednesday, 28th.—The new Queen has ordered
the present Ministers to retain their seals of office.
Parliament will be dissolved in the course of next
month; in the meantime, the Duchess of Sutherland
is made Mistress of the Robes, and the Marchionesses
of Tavistock and Lansdowne have received appoint-
ments in the household. Thus all goes in the Whig
interest.
The Marquis of Bath, who has only enjoyed his
title a few months, is dead at Longleat, in his fortieth
year.
Lord Durham is arrived in England. There is a
report current that he is to have the Foreign Office,
and Lord Palmerston to be removed to the Peers.
Sunday, July 2nd. A court-martial has been
sitting for two days at Marseilles for the trial of
General de Rigny, for his conduct at the retreat from
Constantine. He was acquitted. No one seems
able to account for the cause of this prosecution.
The accusations were proved to be groundless, and
many of them to be fabrications, but nothing could
excuse the petulance of some of the witnesses, who
1837.]
221
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
were prepared to insult the court because their testi-
mony was not credited.
The General received back his sword without a
slur on his honour.
Tuesday, 4th.-The accounts from England only
state that the Whig Ministry carries everything
before it. They have made all the fresh appoint-
ments in the young Queen's household from their
own party; and as a token of their allegiance to
O'Connell, they have given the clerkship of the
Hanaper, held by poor old Lord Granard, to Mr.
Fitzsimon, son-in-law of the Agitator.
Wednesday, 5th. The Duke of Cumberland has
made his public entry into his states as King of
Hanover, where he has been received with much
cordiality by his subjects, who are pleased at being
separated from England and becoming an indepen-
dent kingdom.
Sunday, 9th.-C. G-writes to me as follows:
"You will have already heard enough of the
behaviour of the young Queen, which is the theme
of general applause. As far as it has gone, she has
acted with extraordinary propriety, and there is every
reason to think that she is equal to her great situa-
tion. It was only to be expected that she would put
herself into the hands of Melbourne, and she has
done so without reserve. I am well content that it
should be so, for Melbourne is a man of sense and
honour, and I believe he will deal fairly by her, and
exercise the prodigious powers with which he is in-
vested in a conscientious manner. It is needless to
say that this change has propped up the tottering
222
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
Government, and that the cordial support of the
Crown puts them in a much more favourable position.
Both parties, as you see, are endeavouring to make
use of the Queen's name, which is bandied about
liberally on all sides, the Tories making her out to
be the unwilling prisoner of the Whigs, and the
Whigs that she is their zealous and kind mistress.
I do not suppose that any impression will be made
on the elections by these means on either side; and
as both parties are equally confident that they shall
gain something, and neither that they shall gain much,
I dare say the returns will produce no very different
result."
The trial of the Duke of Richmond's Aubigné
case came on again the other day in the courts, and
a verdict this time was given against him in favour
of the younger children, but it is no final decision.
Don Carlos, who since he was driven by the
Christinos from Navarre, was supposed to be in a
disastrous position, has just crossed the Ebro with a
considerable force, and is advancing into Valencia,
-some say marching on Madrid.
Saturday, 15th.-News is arrived that Don Carlos
has taken possession of Valencia. The cholera is
raging at Naples. The Queen Dowager has left that
city in great haste for Manfredonia, after losing in
the space of twenty-four hours her two first Dames
d'Honneur, the Baroness de Schumacher and the
Duchess de San Teodoro.
Monday, 16th.-We went to Versailles early to
inspect the Musée, and spent some hours without see-
ing the whole. The private apartments of Louis
1837.]
223
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
XIV., of which so much had been said, did not come
up to my expectations. There are some fine pictures
in this enormous collection, but the great part are of
very inferior description. The palace itself, after all,
is the real curiosity; and when we look round at the
magnificent and spacious apartments which it com-
prises, we can only think of the taste and splendour
of the monarch who built it. In the Salle des
Maréchaux is a blank frame, under which is written
"Le Maréchal Bourmont, absent, par refus du
Serment."
Tuesday, 18th. - Yarmouth returned from Eng-
land. He says that the luxury in England is as-
tonishing, and the country rich and flourishing.
A few days after her accession, the Queen sent
for Lord Albemarle, the Master of the Horse, and
said to him, "My Lord, you will immediately pro-
vide for me six chargers to review my troops! "
It does not appear as yet how Lord Durham will
be disposed of. At one time it was thought of
sending him here as Ambassador, then of giving
him the Foreign Office, to which Lord Palmerston
would not object if he was made Viceroy of Ireland.
In short, the Whigs are dividing the loaves and
fishes manfully.
Wednesday, 19th. The Queen prorogued the
Parliament on Monday in person amidst the shouts
and cheers of the people. It will be dissolved in
the next Gazette.
The Treaty made by General Bugeaud with
Abdel Kader is arrived in Paris.
Thursday 20th. The Parliament is dissolved,
224
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
and nothing talked of in London but the Elections.
All the letters agree that there will be little change,
except in Ireland, where the Government may gain
four or five.
Lord Durham has published a letter to his friends
in the North which savours strongly of Conservative
principles; and the Government, now that they feel
strong in the support of the Queen, seem well dis-
posed to throw over the Radicals. The mystery now
is explained. They would have destroyed all the
institutions of the country to keep themselves in
place; but finding themselves unexpectedly esta-
blished beyond their hopes, they are just as anxious
to preserve the welfare of their country because it
becomes identified with their own interests.
Friday, 21st. An American journal states that
the Legislative Assembly at Mississippi has just
adopted a law in virtue of which the survivor in a
duel is bound to pay the debts of his adversary.
Saturday, 22nd.—The cholera is raging at Naples
and at Palermo to such a degree, that 400 to 500
deaths occur daily. It was reported in all the
French papers that the young Queen was dead, but
it is not confirmed. Three cases of plague have
shown themselves at Marseilles in the Lazaretto.
Wednesday, 26th. -The accounts from Arenen-
berg represent the ex-Queen of Holland as still
struggling against the complaint which is under-
mining her constitution. She has frequent con-
ferences with her chaplain, and shows a humble
reliance in her religious faith. The Queen pos-
sesses a relic received from Napoleon, and which is
1837.]
225
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
known as the talisman of Charlemagne. When the
tomb of that Emperor at Aix-la-Chapelle was opened,
his bones were found arrayed in Roman vestments,
his double crown of France and Germany was on
his fleshless brow, and his pilgrim's wallet was by
his side, as well as his good sword, Joyeuse, with
which, according to the monk of St. Denis, he clove
in two a knight in complete armour. His feet rested
on the buckler of solid gold given to him by Pope
Leo, and round his neck was the talisman which
rendered him victorious. It was formed of a piece
of the true Cross sent to him by the Empress Irene,
enclosed in an emerald attached to a large chain of
golden links.
The burghers of Aix-la-Chapelle presented it to
Napoleon in 1811, when he entered that town. One
day he threw it over the neck of his step-daughter,
Queen Hortense, who has retained it ever since.
Saturday, 29th. I called this morning on Lord
Granville. He showed me a letter from Villiers* at
Madrid, which represents the cause of Don Carlos
as hopeless. He has been defeated, and is retreating
to the Ebro. Another case of the plague has broken
out on board the Leonidas steamship at Marseilles,
which entails upon the whole crew a fresh quarantine
of eighty days.
The cholera is making such ravages at Palermo,
that the dead lie unburied in their houses. The
people have thrown the physicians, who were afraid
to attend them, into the sea, and the Governor of
VOL. III.
* Now Earl of Clarendon.
Q
226
[AUGUST,
JOURNAL OF
the place has been murdered, and his palace pillaged,
after seeing his own wife die of the cholera. The
Government has ordered 3000 troops from Naples
to quell the riots, and they refuse to go on account
of the disease.
A dreadful accident has occurred in England to a
Mr. Cocking, who went up in a balloon to descend
by a parachute: from some defect in his machinery
he fell violently to the ground, and was killed on the
spot.
Mademoiselle Garnerin was to make her ascent to-
day from the Quai d'Orsay and descend in the same
manner. The Queen sent for Montalivet to desire
that the exhibition might not take place on account
of the danger; but he observed to her that he did
not dare baulk the people in their amusements.
weather, however, prevented it.
Tuesday, August 1st.-C. G
London:
The
writes me from
"No Dissolution ever took place under such
favourable circumstances. The popularity of the
new reign, the abundant and unscrupulous use of
the Queen's name (though, it must be owned, this is
common to both parties, and we see her blazoned on
the most opposite banners), and the making the
most of the King of Hanover's flare-up*, all combined
to put the Government in the most powerful atti-
tude. Yet they have acquired no strength; and as
the English counties will probably balance Ireland,
they are not likely to acquire any. All this, how-
* Immediately after his accession, the King of Hanover abolished
the Constitution, which his predecessor had conceded in 1833.
1837.]
227
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
•
ever, and the question of a few votes, more or less,
on either side, is to me matter of great indifference.
What I regard with satisfaction is the state of feeling
evinced in various ways, the exhibition not of a
Tory, but of an anti-Radical, spirit. In the first
place, all the applications to the Reform Club for
candidates which came from the country said, Send
us Whigs-don't send us Radicals.' You have seen
the language of Ministers, and that which they put
into the Queen's mouth, and now you see some of
the principal Radicals rejected,-Ewart, Roebuck,
Palmer, S. Thompson, Wigney; and Grote, though
not thrown out, so close run, by the Conservative
candidate, that it is the same thing, especially as
there is a great probability of a scrutiny unseating
him. In Ireland I already know that in several
places Whigs will be substituted for Radicals and
Members of the Tail; so that, on the whole, the new
House of Commons will present a much more re-
spectable aspect than the last. All this is to me,
who care nothing for either party, and greatly for
what Cobbett calls the thing, extremely cheering."
Thursday, 3rd. An Italian paper relates the
horrid death of the Cardinal Somaglia in the follow-
ing terms:
"The Cardinal, in consequence of some misfortune
which affected his spirits, became seriously indisposed.
He fell into a swoon, and was supposed to be dead.
His family ordered the body to be embalmed, that it
might be preserved in the family vault. The ser-
vants, apprehensive of a sudden decomposition from
Q 2
228
[AUGUST,
JOURNAL OF
the heat of the weather, sent immediately for the
professional men to commence the operation.
Scarcely had they laid bare the breast of the
corpse when they found to their horror that the
pulsation of the heart still continued. The unfortu-
nate Cardinal, who at this moment came to himself,
had still sufficient strength to stretch out his hand,
and remove the knife of the surgeon; but it was
too late the wound was mortal, the scalpel had
injured the region of the lungs, and he soon died in
great agony.
:
The horror of those who were present, and the
despair of the surgeon, may well be imagined.
Friday, 4th.-The Duc de San Teodoro is arrived
here from Naples, where he lost his mother, his
sister, and one of his sons by the cholera; he
quitted that town with his wife, who was seized
with the disorder on board the steamer, and died at
Leghorn in the Lazaretto. They had passed last
winter in Paris. Who could have foreseen that a
woman surrounded with every luxury, who presided
over the world of fashion in her own country, would
die on a miserable grabat in a common hospital,
without the means of obtaining the ordinary care
and attention which would have been shown to the
meanest of her own attendants? The Prince de la
Tremouille, who three years ago married Miss Mur-
ray, died the other day at Aix-la-Chapelle. What is
most extraordinary for a Frenchman, his end is
attributed to the immoderate use of Morrison's pills,
of which he was in the habit of taking forty or fifty
per day. He has left by his wife two daughters,
1837.]
229
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
twins, and as his elder brother the Duke has no
children, this very ancient family will soon be ex-
tinct.
The procession of the bisecular jubilee at Dunkirk
took place last Sunday, and was attended by an im-
mense concourse of spectators. The object of this
fête is to represent the Passion of our Saviour, each
part of the solemnity being personified by different
individuals. A number of cars, with angels of both
sexes chaunting psalms, figure in the procession, all
the personages of which repeat in Flemish the words
supposed to have been used by the soldiers and exe-
cutioners there represented. The solemn exhibition
commences with the birth of the Saviour, and closes
with his death. A number of young girls with dis-
hevelled hair then make their appearance, and after-
wards a crowd of penitents, bare-footed, dressed in
coarse garments, and performing various acts of mor-
tification in order to obtain remission of their sins.
The minutest details were observed, the guards were
on horseback as in old paintings representing the
Passion, and the costumes were carefully imitated.
Saturday, 5th. This morning was married, in
Paris, Lord Lyndhurst to Miss Goldsmith.
Sunday, 6th.-The accounts of the elections in
the counties are favourable to the Conservatives; and
as a further proof of the decline of Radical feeling,
old Joseph Hume has been turned out of Middle-
sex.
Thursday, 10th.-A trial is going on in the High
Court at Orleans to claim the domain of Chambord
for the State, as a forfeiture, which had been pre-
Q 3
230
[AUGUST,
JOURNAL OF
viously presented to the Duke of Bordeaux by
public subscription. The following account of this
domain has come out during the proceedings
Chambord was under the Feudal System a strong
castle belonging to the Counts of Blois, it was in the
possession of Louis XII., and through him was at-
tached to the Crown.
Francis I. made it one of the most remarkable
monuments of the revival of the Arts. Eighteen
hundred workmen were employed upon it during
twelve years.
In 1615 Louis XIII. gave it to his brother,
Gaston, Duke of Orleans, who dying without male
issue it reverted to the Crown.
In 1726 Leczinski, King of Poland, being driven
from his throne, it was assigned to him for a resi-
dence.
In 1748 it was given by Louis XV. for his life
to Marshal Saxe.
In 1790 it became re-attached to the Crown, and
was affected to the endowment of the Legion of
Honour.
Later it was appropriated to himself by the Em-
peror, who made it over to Berthier, Prince of
Wagram.
The Prince of Wagram leaving a son under age, his
widow obtained permission from Louis XVIII. to
sell the property.
It was then bought by public subscription.
Saturday, 12th. This week died in London the
Duchess of St. Alban's.
She was of low origin, and a bad actress at the
1837.]
231
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
public theatres when she gained a prize in the lot-
tery of 10,0007.; she then attracted the notice of
old Coutts, the rich banker, who first lived with
her, and then married her, leaving her at his death
an immense fortune. Having attained enormous
wealth, she next looked for rank, and married the
Duke of St. Alban's, grand falconer of England,
who was much younger than herself. She has left
the Duke 10,000l. a year, which has answered his
purpose, and the bulk of her property among the
family of Sir F. Burdett.
Monday, 14th.—What an extraordinary mixture
there is in this people of high and low sentiments!
The extremes in both are of daily occurrence. At a
public house opposite I yesterday heard a quarrel
between the master and a common labourer, who is
working in the public sewer, which is open. After
some mutual recrimination the publican called him a
dirty fellow, alluding to his dress, when the labourer
replied, "Savez vous que ce n'est pas la blouse qui
salit? le véritable sale c'est le mal-honnête homme,
fut-il même mieux mis que vous."
At this moment a hack cabriolet is waiting before
my windows, the driver has the ribbon of the Legion
of Honour in his button-hole, and to pass the time
is reading; but what? a pocket Horace in Latin!
Compare this with the cabmen in Piccadilly.
Sunday, 20th.-Lord Hertford arrived in Paris
last night. A letter from Charles Greville this
morning mentions that Sefton is dying.
Wednesday, 23rd. — The affair of the Château de
Chambord has been brought to a conclusion by the
Q 4
232
[AUGUST,
JOURNAL OF
Royal Court of Orleans. It has been decided that
the estate of Chambord was not an appanage, and
that it is the private property of the young prince.
Louis-Philippe's rapacity has been disappointed.
Thursday, 24th.— The Duc de Luxembourg took
me as his guest to dine at the Club on the Boulevard
Montmartre, which is infinitely better managed than
our club: the apartments are splendid, and the dinner
excellent. The Duke has a fine hotel in the Fau-
bourg St. Germain, but a small fortune: he gave
up all the appointments which he held under the
Bourbons; when they left the country he was Captain
of the Guard to Charles X.
Friday, 25th. The fortunate Mr. Cousin, who de-
manded 100,000 frs. for the picture which he bought
for 53 frs. at the late Duc de Maille's sale, has
been awakened from his dream of wealth by a claim
from the Liste Civile to prove that it belongs to the
Musée. The tribunals have declared the sale null
and void, and commanded the restitution of the pic-
ture to the Crown under a penalty of 100 frs. per
day for a whole year!
Tuesday, 28th.-Montrond, who is very much
pulled down by his last serious illness, and is become
quite an old man, left Paris the other day for
Valençay, on a visit to M. de Talleyrand. The
journal the "Quotidienne " alludes to it in the fol-
lowing terms:-
"M. de Montrond, ce Lauzun du Directoire, ce
dernier type des hommes de l'ancien régime, qui oc-
cupa pendant trente ans Paris de l'éclat de ses
aventures galantes, de l'ampleur de sa cravate, du
1837.]
233
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
bruit de ses duels, de l'élégance de sa coiffure, du
piquant de ses saillies, du luxe de ses dépenses, et
du mystère de sa fortune; ce brillant Montrond, qui
donnoit le ton à Frascati et au pavillon d'Hanovre,
par la cherté de son jeu, et par la hardiesse de ses
propos; qui étoit aussi fort à l'épée qu'au whist,
aussi habile à forcer un Quinola, qu'à reduire une
coquette: ce Montrond, qui parcouroit toutes les
cours de l'Europe à la suite des ambassadeurs, et qui
dirigeoit aussi bien une fête à l'Hôtel des Affaires
Etrangères, que les parties de jeu d'un Congrès ;
enfin ce Montrond, le seul homme en Europe qui
soit resté pendant cinquante ans l'ami de M. de Tal-
leyrand, traine aujourd'hui à Valençay les infirmités
d'une jeunesse de soixante et dix ans. Presque
aveugle et perclus de goutte, on le brouette dans les
allées du Parc, on le traine à la table du Prince, et
on le porte dans le salon, où il retrouve encore
quelques licences d'esprit de sarcasme et d'ironie,
qui jettent une certaine diversion sur les ennuyeuses
soirées d'étiquette du Château de Valençay. M. de
Talleyrand ne se plait plus que dans la conversation
de ce fidus Achates, qui a fait pendant quarante ans
assaut d'épigrames et de roueries avec lui, et ces deux
grands débris se consolent entre eux. Si l'on veut
savoir le secret de la liaison de ces deux hommes,
qui s'estiment et se connoissent, on le trouvera dans
les deux mots suivant.
•
"M. de Talleyrand disoit un soir dans les
épanchements de l'intimité, Duchesse de Laval,
savez vous pourquoi j'aime assez Montrond? C'est
parcequ'il n'a pas beaucoup de préjugés.' Montrond
234
[Ост.
JOURNAL OF
répliqua aussitôt: Duchesse de Luynes, savez vous
pourquoi j'aime M. de Talleyrand? C'est qu'il n'en
a pas du tout.””
Saturday, 2nd.-The King and Queen of the
Belgians arrived in England on a visit to Windsor
Castle. Death of Sir Coutts Trotter in London.
Wednesday, 20th.—My old friend, Sir Ed. Stop-
ford, died at Leamington on Thursday last. I feared
when he last left Paris that we should never meet
again.
Friday, 29th.-The Queen of Portugal is brought
to bed of a son, in consequence of which her hus-
band, Prince Ferdinand, takes the title of King of
Portugal.
Sunday, October 1st.-General Edmund Phipps is
dead at Venice, aged seventy-seven. He was a
worthy good-natured man, and he had for many years
lost the use of his right arm from paralysis, caused, as
it is said, by drinking bad sherry when in regimental
quarters, in which white lead was infused. This arm
hung down like the fin of a turtle, which gave him
the sobriquet of Governor of Finland.
Tuesday, 9th.—I returned yesterday from St.
Germains, where I have been staying the last week
on a visit to Aston.
Wednesday, 10th.—The Queen Hortense, daughter
of the Empress Josephine, died on the 5th instant at
Arenenberg in Switzerland.
Thursday, 11th.—The following are the popula-
tions of the different capitals: -London, 1,400,000;
Paris, 890,000; Petersburg, 377,000; Naples,
364,000; Cairo, 330,000; Madrid, 201,000; Rome,
1837.]
235
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
154,000; Milan, 150,000; Turin, 114,000; Flo-
rence, 80,000; Dresden, 70,000.
Thursday, 17th. — The Princess Marie was mar-
ried at Trianon to the Duke of Würtemberg.
Monday, 21st. We heard the news of Sir Roger
Gresley's death. He had been ill for some time, in
consequence of a paralytic stroke, but had nearly
recovered, when he died suddenly at the age of
thirty-eight, leaving no children.
Thursday, 26th.-The news arrived of the taking
of Constantine by the French, with considerable loss :
the General in chief, Damremont, was killed by a
cannon-ball, as he was going to visit the trenches
previous to the general attack. The town was
taken by assault on the 13th.
Friday, 27th.-The Queen of Holland died at the
Hague on the 20th instant. She was interred with
great pomp at Delft.
The
Thursday, November 2nd. - The French are about
to leave a strong garrison in Constantine.
natural obstacles presented by the ground were in-
creased by torrents of rain to such a degree that on
the 10th a council of war was held to deliberate on
the propriety of raising the siege. It was necessary
to employ forty horses to convey each piece of artil-
lery to the spot where the breach was to be made.
They lost fifty to sixty horses per day. General
Vallée has succeeded to General Damremont.
Tuesday, 7th.-The accounts from Constantine
are very unfavourable: the cholera has broken out
among the troops, and the Marquis de Caraman, who
commanded the artillery, is dead; he was with the
236
[Nov.
JOURNAL OF
General Vallée at twelve o'clock at night, and at six
o'clock in the morning was a corpse.
Wednesday, 15th.-It appears that the loss in
taking Constantine, though concealed by the ministe-
rial accounts, has been very considerable; and to such
an extent had the provisions of the army failed, that
if the town had been able to hold out twenty-four
hours longer, they would all have been starved, or
probably destroyed, as the rains had rendered their
retreat impossible.
Thursday, 16th.-Montrond is wofully changed.
He is become thin and emaciated, leans on a stick
for support, and wears green spectacles. Some one
wishing to be agreeable said to him to-day at dinner,
"Je vous trouve bon visage aujourd'hui." His
reply was, "Ma foi, vous n'êtes pas difficile." M.
de Talleyrand, on a tradesman asking him when he
would pay him, said, "Ma foi, vous êtes bien curieux!"
Saturday, 18th.-Among the English visitors
who are just returned to London for the meeting of
Parliament is Lord Dudley Stuart.* He has been
received here by the Poles with great cordiality, as
the advocate of their cause in the British House of
Commons. They gave him a public dinner in Paris,
and made him the singular present of his own picture,
on which Rokeby remarked they might as well have
sent him a looking-glass. What would the Whig
Government say if the Russians were to give a public
dinner to O'Connell ?
Wednesday, 22nd. — The Queen's speech arrived:
* Died at Stockholm in 1854.
1837.]
237
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
it is, as usual, meagre and undefined, but the debates
on the address in the House of Commons have been
enlivened by the singular fact of an amendment
moved by the Government's own friends against
them. The Radical party was represented by Mr.
Wakley on this occasion, and they divided twenty
against the Government.
Saturday, 25th. - A circumstance has lately
occurred in Paris which has been the object of gene-
ral comment in society. The Duke of Hamilton
and his family have been residing here for several
months, on account of the alarming illness of his
daughter, Lady Lincoln, who was attended by the
two doctors, Koreff and Wolowski. When about
to take their departure these two medical men claimed
for their attendance during six months the enormous
sum of 400,000 francs, and had the insolence to
arrest Lord Lincoln for this exorbitant demand.
sum of 25,000 francs was paid by him into court,
and a trial will take place next week before the
tribunals to decide the matter.
A
Monday, 27th.-Rokeby leaves us to-morrow for
England. The papers mention the death of the
Earl of Egremont at Petworth. He leaves an im-
mense property behind him, which is divided be-
tween his natural children. To his four sons 15,0007.
a year each, and five daughters 45,000l. a piece, in
addition to 40,000l. already given to Lady Munster
and Lady Burrell. He was very liberal and chari-
table. He kept a hospitable house at Petworth,
where his racing stable and breeding establishment
produced the finest horses of the day. He was at
238
[DEC.
JOURNAL OF
and made her a
one time attached to Lady
present of a blank cheque ; she filled it up moderately
for 30,000%, which was paid.
Wednesday, 29th.- Last Friday, died in Ireland,
Earl Clancarty. I knew him well at the time when
he was ambassador at the Hague, where he received
me with great kindness and civility. He was seventy-
one years old.
Tuesday, December 5th.-The remains of General
Damremont, which had been brought from Con-
stantine, were yesterday laid in state in the Invalides,
and a grand funeral requiem performed with great
pomp in honour of his death by 300 musicians.
Friday, 8th. The trial of Koreff and Wolowski
was decided to-day. They are defeated at all points.
The sentence enjoins them to give up within a
certain day the MS. detail of Lady Lincoln's illness,
which they had hitherto withheld; remarks that
their attendance has been overpaid by the 25,000
francs paid into court by the Duke of Hamilton ;
that the arrest of Lord Lincoln was vexatious; and
further condemns them in payment of costs.
Tuesday, 12th.—A fresh plot has been discovered
against the life of the King. A man named Hubert,
just arrived from England, at Boulogne dropped
his pocket-book containing some letters and papers
of a treasonable nature, which was picked up by a
custom-house officer, and led to the detection. Four
or five persons implicated have been arrested in
Paris.
The Duc de Nemours, on his passage home from
Algiers, after touching at Gibraltar in a steam-boat,
1837.]
239
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
had the misfortune to fall on the slippery deck, and
break his arm.
Thursday, 21st. The accounts from Canada are
discouraging. The Papineau party have shown
symptoms of rebellion against the British Govern-
ment, and in some instances have appeared in arms.
Sunday, 24th. The civil war in Canada has
really commenced. The Radicals have had an en-
gagement with the English troops under Colonel
Wetherell, and the village of St. Charles, which was
the scene of action, has been destroyed; the result
on either side was a few wounded, but the flame of
rebellion seems likely to increase.
The Christmas recess of Parliament has been
shortened on account of this event, and the House
will meet again on the 16th January, instead of the
1st February, as first intended.
Monday, 25th. Christmas-day.
The weather
was so mild that fires were scarcely necessary; it
was a temperature of May, with fog in the evening.
240
[JAN.
JOURNAL OF
1838.
MONDAY, January 1st. It is positively asserted
that the Ministers have sent to the Duke for advice
how to act.
*
Lord Wellesley's witty remark on Mulgrave's
Government in Ireland is much cited. "Our friend
Mulgrave has dramatised the Royal prerogative: he
has made Mercy blind instead of Justice."
Thursday, 11th. - Five thousand men, including
two battalions of Guards, are selected for service in
Canada.
Sunday, 14th. Within the last week accounts
have arrived of two most destructive fires. The
Winter Palace at St. Petersburg, containing property
to an immense amount, and the Royal Exchange at
London, are burnt to the ground. Last night the
Théâtre des Italiens † here shared the same fate.
In all three instances the severe frost, which cut off
the supplies of water, rendered the calamity more
extensive.
Thursday, 18th. The frost continues with un-
abating severity, and the ruins of the Italian Theatre
are still smoking and partially burning. The Direc-
tor Severini, who lived in the upper story, threw
himself out of the balcony, and was dashed to pieces.
* Now Marquis of Normanby.
† Les Bouffons, Rue de Gramont.
1838.]
241
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Many lives have been lost among the firemen, and
much private property destroyed. Several gentle-
men, attracted to the spot by curiosity, were com-
pelled by the guards to work at the pumps, and
remained there, notwithstanding the rigorous weather,
till a late hour in the morning. Lord Eldon, the late
chancellor, died last week in England, æt. eighty-
seven. His father was a coal-fitter at Newcastle,
where he was educated, and from this humble origin
he rose to his late high position in England. He
held the Great Seal during twenty-five years, and
was finally made an Earl.
Thursday, February 1st.- All the accounts that
are received from England corroborate each other as
to the extraordinary firmness and decision of cha-
racter shown by the young Queen, and testify to
the singular self-control she must have exercised
until she came of age.
Monday, 5th.—The papers announce the sale of
my poor friend Lord Foley's property in Worcester-
shire, for the sum of 890,000l., to the trustees of Lord
Ward, a minor, who succeeds to the immense pro-
perty of the late Earl Dudley. This step is the
only means of securing a sufficient fortune to the
present Lord Foley, whose first object has been to
pay all his father's debts. The family-place at Wit-
ley is now gone, and the name which was endeared
to the country through several generations, will now
only be known by recollection. It is a melancholy
sight, this uprooting of a wealthy and always
highly-respected family.
Wednesday, 7th.-The Chamber of Deputies has
VOL. III.
R
242
[FEB.
JOURNAL OF
lately been occupied with a long discussion for two
days on the trifling subject of proposing a uniform
for their members, which has at length been aban-
doned; but they have shown a more ignoble feeling
in another debate, when, on the Government, having
proposed a pension of 10,000 francs, or 400l. to the
widow of General Damremont, who was killed at the
siege of Constantine, they reduced the gift, from a
spirit of economy, to 6000 francs, or 2401. a year,
Sunday, 11th.-This evening we found the Vi-
comtesse de Noailles established in her new house in
the Rue d'Astorg. Afterwards at Madame de Fla-
hault's I was edified by the opinions of General
Excelmans on the Revolution of July, who asserted
that it was unavoidable, as the Bourbons did not
understand the French nation.
In looking over several old Moniteurs of the
time of the Revolution, I found the following para-
graphs on the extinction of the Reign of Terror:-
"Enfin le 9 Thermidor nous a purgés de la présence
des tyrans; la joie Française est revenue, des bals
se sont ouverts au profit des victimes." The idea is
unique.
Further on, the same feeling is shown when
Napoleon gained the ascendancy over the Council
of Five Hundred at St. Cloud:-"Le 18 Brumaire
a sauvé la France de l'ignoble despotisme de quel-
ques proconsuls. La gaieté Française renait de toutes
parts. Déjà les bals s'organisent au profit des
victimes.”
And in 1814, the same paper contains the follow-
ing paragraph:-"L'Ogre Corse est terrassé, les
1838.]
243
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Bourbons sont remontés sur le trône de leurs pères.
Que les cœurs respirent la joie! On dansera demain
à Tivoli au profit des victimes."
Monday, 12th.-The Foundling Hospital at Paris
(Enfans trouvés), which always overflows with in-
mates, never retains them longer than two years.
Once arrived at that age, they are regularly handed
over to the Hospital of Orphans, situated in the Rue
du Faubourg St. Antoine. The deportation is per-
formed in the following manner. On the same day
in every year a covered caravan, nearly similar to
that in which the prisoners are conveyed from their
various places of confinement to the Palais de Justice,
arrives at the gate of the hospital. The list of infants
is called over by the officers of the establishment,
not nominally, but numerically, as the national
charity admits of no distinctions. The indiscrimi-
nating eye of the law acknowledges no name, no
family, no religion, no country. All are blended in
one mass of perfect equality. The madman of the
Salpêtrière has a number, the sick of the Hôtel
Dieu a number, the prisoner of the Conciergerie a
number, the illegitimate a number. It is a melan-
choly idea, but sublimely philosophical. The whole
history of these houses is an affair of cyphers; at
the Foundling Hospital, for instance, the nurses are
numbered, the wards are numbered, as well as the
little innocents, who wear on their wrists a linen band
inscribed with a number, alas! of high amount, by
which alone they are recognised. The establish-
ment is reduced to a statistic calculation, which enu-
merates with pride, that the sum total of infants ex-
R 2
244
[FEB.
JOURNAL OF
posed since 1741 to 1790 amounted to 260,465,
which gives a yearly average of 5,210 children de-
serted by their parents. From the year 1789 to
1813, 109,650 infants were received in this hospital,
of whom 39,330 died under the roof, which makes
the yearly quotient during that period amount to
4,386 children received, and 1,572 dead.
On the day of removal those children whose
numbers are ripe are brought into the chapel, where
Mass is performed, and at the moment of departure
their little heads are taught to salute with an obeis-
ance the statue of St. Vincent de Paul, the founder,
which is placed near the entrance. He is repre-
sented holding an infant on his right arm, concealing
a second under his mantle, and attempting to raise a
third, which is lying prostrate at his feet. The
statue itself is admirably executed by Stouf, in 1789,
by order of Louis XVI., to commemorate the virtues
of that saint, who raised this pious establishment,
and inscribed on its front these sublime and affecting
words:
"Mon père et ma mère m'ont abandonné, mais le Seigneur a eu
pitié de moi."
As soon as the Mass is over, and the moment
of departure arrives, the little group is surrounded by
their kind and affectionate nurses, the sœurs de cha-
rité, anxious to take a last farewell of those who for
two years have been the objects of their tender care,
and who now are about to quit them for ever.
press forward to give a last embrace to the nursling
torn from their arms at the moment when it might
All
1838.]
245
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
just begin to reward their maternal solicitude, by
lisping the name of mother, if such an endearing
term had been permitted within the walls of this
stern retreat. But no!—and let the unnatural
parents know it,—the designation of such a name
is forbidden by the laws of the hospital. It is erased
from the heart and the lips of the infant, and no
other term of endearment is allowed to the Sisters
from the children than My aunt.
When the caravan arrives at its destination, the
Hospice des Orphelins, a removal of the inmates
there takes place to make room for the new arrivals.
The transfer is made as before, though on a larger
scale. That portion of the children who have
reached their eleventh year are now, by the rules
of the establishment, to quit the hospital, and enter
on some trade or profession. Here is to be seen a
crowd of tradesmen from all quarters of the town,
who are waiting in a large hall the result of their
applications to receive apprentices on terms best.
suited to their sordid speculations. Here is a market
established for human flesh, in which every one is
eager to carry off a bargain, as much under the
market price as the facility of the Directors, who are
ready listeners to their terms, will accept.
No regard is paid to the dispositions or bias of
these children; each is handed over promiscuously to
the best bidder, and natural talents which might
have formed a philosopher or an artist, are doomed
to be smothered in the shop of a blacksmith or the
stall of a cobbler,
Monday, 19th.-The debates in the House of
R 3
246
[MARCH,
JOURNAL OF
Commons last week have been amusing. The
Government, wishing to oppose the question of
ballot brought forward by their Radical friends, have
been obliged to crave the support of their adversaries,
the Tories, who have brought them out of the scrape
by giving them a majority of 117. But 200 members
voted for the measure, which is a larger proportion
than ever was mustered on that side.
In the previous debate on the Canada question,
Sir Robert Peel's amendment was carried, and
adopted by the Government. On both these occa-
sions he has made the Whigs pay dear for his assist-
ance by the sarcastic terms in which he pointed out
their weakness and short-sightedness.
Tuesday, 27th.-Mardi-gras, which terminated
the season of Paris, and the fêtes of the Carnival
with a grand ball at Rothschild's. General Vallée is
made Marshal of France in consequence of his
victory at Constantine, which has given rise to the
following calembourg: "Il n'y aura plus de Maré-
chaux puisque le dernier bâton est avalé.
Thursday, March 1st.—Scene before the police-
office.
"M. Maurice se présente en se dandinant devant la
police correctionelle. Après avoir prêté serment, et
croisé ses deux mains sur son abdomen rebondi, fait
la déposition suivante sur un ton de psalmiste, et en
faisant le moulinet avec ses deux pouces :- Voyez-
vous, M. le Président, j'étois tranquillement à mon
comptoir, refléchissant de choses et d'autres, et
dévidant de la soie, lorsque M. Duflot mon voisin,
mon caporal, et mon ami politique, se précipite de-
1839.]
247
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
vant moi comme un fleuve, et donnant un grandissime
coup de poing sur mon comptoir se répand dans un
tas de paroles en me disant; Votre femme est une
harpie, une piegriéche, une rien du tout, une pas
grand-chose. Vous pouvez lui souhaiter ce bon
jour de la mienne.' Voyons, Voyons,' que je dis,
'expliquons-nous.' C'est tout expliqué, suffit, j'ai
dit, vous pouvez y dire; mais vous êtes trop serin
pour ça.' Naturellement il me parloit là un Hebreu,
que c'étoit du Chinois pour moi. J'interromps ma soie,
et je lui dis: 'Voisin Duflot, faites moi donc le plaisir
de vous asseoir.' Il s'asseoit, et nous voilà à causer.
Eh bien,' que je lui dis, 'voyons un peu, qu'est ce
qu'elle vous a donc fait cette pauvre Phrasie?" Phrasie
Messieurs, c'est mon épouse. C'est pas à moi,' qu'il
'Mais c'est à Madame
6
me repond. Eh bien alors.'
Duflot ma légitime, et qui offense mon épouse, me
dit des sottises.' Je suis de votre avis, voisin
Duflot, et j'en ferai des reproches à Phrasie.' Il
ne s'agit pas de Phrasie à present, je veux me battre.'
'Allons donc, voisin, les duels sont défendus.' Et je
cherchois à plaisanter pour le calmer, mais il paroit
qu'il n'étoit pas dans son jour de plaisanter, car je
lui ai à peine dit ces simples mots, qu'il s'écrie, ‹ Ah
vieux troubadour, tu ne veux pas te battre, eh bien
tu seras battu.' Ces mots frappaient à peine mon
oreille, que sa main frappait ma joue. Un soufflet,
monsieur, un vrai soufflet que j'ai reçu moi-meme et
sur chaque joue, j'en demande une vengeance
éclatante.'
6
“M. Président (au prévenu). Duflot, recon-
noissez-vous avoir donné un soufflet à Maurice?
R 4
248
[MARCH,
JOURNAL OF
"Duflot. Quand je ne le reconnoitrois pas, ça
ne l'empêcheroit pas de l'avoir reçu, alors je le recon-
nois parfaitement.
"Le Président. Comment sans provocation avez-
vous pû vous porter à un pareil excès?
"Duflot. Tout ça, c'est la faute des femmes:
j'aurois pas du m'interposer, voilà mon erreur; mais,
si je suis fruitier aujourd'hui, j'ai été dans le tems
Sergent de Voltigeurs, et quand je crois qu'on veut
me mécaniser.
"Président. Mais le plaignant ne vous avoit
rien dit.
CC
Duflot. - C'est vrai, mais puisque je vous dis
que j'ai commis l'abus de m'interposer entre deux
femelles.
"Président. Qu'avoit donc fait la femme du
plaignant à la vôtre?
66
Duflot. J'en sais rien.
"Président. - Et sans savoir pourquoi, vous
allez ainsi chercher querelle à votre voisin?
"Duflot.
Toujours l'erreur que j'ai eu de
m'interposer. Les femmes, voyez-vous, ça feroit
battre deux limandes. Aussi j'ai amené exprès mes
deux fils avec moi pour qu'ils reconnoissent l'incon-
venient du sexe, et qu'ils restent garçons, comme l'a
fait mon père, et comme j'aurois du l'imiter.
"Les deux enfans effrayés du ton de leur père, et
intimidés du spectacle insolite qui frappe leurs regards,
se prennent à hurler sur deux tons différents, sans que
le pauvre Maurice puisse les faire taire. Il les secoue
tant qu'il peut, ce qui les fait crier encore plus fort.
Un assistant leur donne à chacun un morceau de
1838.]
249
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
6
sucre, et ils se calment. Duflot pousse un gros soupir
et s'ecrie, Encore un agrément de l'hymenée.' Puis
s'apercevant que le tribunal delibere, Dites donc,
dites donc, Messieurs, j'ai encore à vous parler.'
•
"Président.-Que voulez-vous dire, puisque vous
convenez des faits.
CC
Duflot. Je veux dire que tout ça vient du
tort que j'ai eu de m'interposer.
"Président. - C'est entendu, asseyez-vous.
"Le tribunal condamne Duflot à dix jours de
prison, et 100 fr. d'amende.
"Duflot. — Troisième agrément de l'hymenée.
Saperlotte (à ses enfans), venez-vous autres, et
que ça vous serve à ne jamais vous marier.”
Friday, 2nd.-M. de Talleyrand, who is in a very
drooping state, has determined, in spite of the re-
monstrances of his physician, to go to-morrow to the
Academy, and read a speech which he has taken
some pains in preparing for that purpose; he likewise
means to take this opportunity of making his last
adieux to the Academicians. The speech will occupy
twenty-five minutes at least, and it is much feared
that the exertion will prove fatal to his life, but he
remains inflexible in his decision.
A motion has been made by Lord Maidstone in
the House of Commons that O'Connell should be
reprimanded by the Speaker for language which he
used at a public dinner at the Crown and Anchor,
charging the Members generally with perjury and
corruption on the Election Committees. The Go-
vernment interfered to support their champion, but
the motion was carried by a majority against them to
250
[MARCH,
JOURNAL OF
their great discomfiture. On the following day,
when publicly reprimanded by the chair, O'Connell,
with his usual insolence, refused to retract a particle
of his expressions.
Sunday, 4th. — Prince Talleyrand went through
the exertion of yesterday without any ill conse-
quences. It was idle to suppose that one so tho-
roughly case-hardened could be accessible to any
nervous emotions.
Monday, 5th.-Talleyrand's speech has been so
warmly panegyrised by the little court which sur-
rounds him, that he has been induced to print and
publish it for his friends. It turns out to be a very
ordinary composition, like the homily of the Arch-
bishop of Grenada.
Tuesday, 6th.-Sir W. Molesworth's motion to
impeach the conduct of Lord Glenelg, came on in
the House of Commons.
Friday, 9th.-Ministers had a majority of twenty-
nine on Molesworth's motion, which was amended by
Lord Sandon; Sir Robert Peel disclaimed all inten-
tion of displacing the Government by any league with
the Radical party.
Friday, 16th.—The motion for secret service
money was carried yesterday in the Chamber of
Deputies.
Monday, 19th. - A new trial has been granted to
Mr. Possoz, the Mayor of Passy, against Prince
Talleyrand, to recover certain documents of a debt
of 12,100 fr. owing by the Duc de Dino, which were
left in the care of the Prince, to be forwarded to the
latter. The court having reconsidered the case, have
1838.]
251
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
pronounced a verdict against M. de Talleyrand, con-
demning him to restore the documents to Possoz
within the space of six months, in default of which,
to pay to Possoz the sum of 12,000 fr., with interest
at 5 per cent.
Sunday, 25th.-The coronation of our Queen is
fixed for June: there will be no extraordinary ambas-
sador sent from hence, as there is no nobleman here
who would choose to incur the expense.
*
*
*
*
*
*
Friday, April 6th. - Mrs. Locke's tableaux were
repeated for the third time, this evening.
Friday, 13th.—Rokeby arrived from England.
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
Monday, 16th. -Lord Hertford and the Zichy's
arrived from Milan.
*
*
*
Marshal Soult is appointed extra Ambassador to
the Coronation in England.
Monday, 30th. The Duc de Talleyrand died
yesterday. He is father to the Duchesse de Poix
and the Duc de Dino, who takes his title. In
former times he was remarkable for his high-bred
manners, but of late years his intellect has failed
him, and he has lived in complete seclusion.
Richelieu said a clever thing to Lord
when
he was in England. The subject of conversation
was M. de Talleyrand, whom Lord cited as the
most agreeable and amusing man he ever knew.
"M. de Talleyrand has a great deal of wit," said the
Duc de Richelieu, "but he cannot be called an
amusing man; he will remain silent for a whole
252
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
""
evening, listening to what passes, and will then
perhaps make some very clever and pointed re-
mark, which every one will afterwards repeat.'
"Oh," said Lord "I can assure you that I was
once for six whole hours alone in company with
M. de Talleyrand, and found him the most amusing
man I ever met.” "I can account for it," replied
Richelieu; "you talked yourself during the whole
time."
Sunday, May 13th. - Madame Arthur de l'Aigle,
who spent the evening with us, mentioned that when
M. Sosthene de la Rouchefoucauld* was staying
this year at her house at Carlepont, he was com-
pletely occupied with the idea of animal magnetism.
He often stayed two or three hours alone in his
room, and came down very much exhausted, saying,
that he had been occupied in awaking some persons,
whom he had left in a magnetic sleep at Paris
before his departure.
Tuesday, 15th.—Countess Appony had a break-
fast at Auteuil. The house is a Gothic structure,
built on speculation by M. Demion, the agent of
the Duc de Montmorency, and there is a magnificent
gallery for dancing, which had a good effect. Prince
Talleyrand, who has been unwell for two or three
days, was much worse last night, and to-day is pro-
nounced to be in such danger that his life is de-
spaired of. His complaint is an anthrax on the loins,
which was opened last night. This morning he
sent for a priest.
* Now Duc de Dodeauville.
1838.]
253
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Wednesday, 16th.-M. de Talleyrand was better
last night, and saw a few people in his salon; he
cut jokes about the chatouillement du bistouri, which
he said was not very agreeable. Medem and La-
bouchere were there: in all about fifteen people.
This morning he is again much worse, and suffers
great pain. Montrond told me at six o'clock that
he did not think he would live through the day.
Several persons think even now that he will not
die, as they believe that he is an evil spirit in
human shape.
Thursday, 17th. This day, at four o'clock,
Prince Talleyrand died. It would seem that the
priest, who arrived on Tuesday morning, was sent
for privately by Madlle. Pauline Perigord, the
daughter of Madame de Dino, but the dying man
would have no communication with him, and refused
the consolations of religion. The priest therefore
took up his post in the ante-room, awaiting a
favourable turn in his sentiments. Last night the
Duc de Poix and others of his relations represented
to the Prince the scandal which would result to the
family if he persisted in his resolutions, and that his
corpse would be debarred by the clergy from Chris-
tian funeral. After some consideration, for he en-
joyed his senses to the very last, he refused their
overtures for that night, but fixed the hour of five
o'clock this morning for his compliance with their
wishes. At the appointed time he received the
Abbé Dupanloup and other friends, in whose pre-
sence he made confession, and a formal recantation
of his errors; after which he received the Holy
254
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
Sacrament. He undersigned two letters, one to
the Pope, the other to the Archbishop of Paris,
professing his faith. His recantation was read aloud
to the company by Madame de Dino.
The King and Madame Adelaide paid him a visit
at half past eight, when he remarked that three in-
dividuals in the room had never been presented,
namely, the two physicians and the valet de chambre,
whom he formally introduced as a matter of eti-
quette, thus adhering to worldly forms to the last.
In that room must have been assembled individuals
whose real feelings at such a scene, could they have
been laid open to public view, would have formed
a curious subject of speculation. The Prince,
throughout this closing scene, though suffering
much bodily pain from his disorder, showed great
firmness and composure. It is reported that the
immense fortune which he was supposed to possess
is dwindled down to little. The estate at Valençay
is mortgaged for more than its value. M. Thiers
arrived two hours after his death, and took the
hand of his deceased master to satisfy himself that
he was really gone.
Friday, 18th. The will of M. de Talleyrand
was presented to-day by his notary, M. Chatelaine,
to the President of the Tribunal of first instance.
The Duchess de Dino, his niece, is universal legatee,
excepting some legacies, and the estate of Valençay,
which goes to her son the Duc de Valençay.
Attached to this will is a declaration in the hand-
writing of M. de Talleyrand, in which he explains
the political principles by which his conduct has
1838.]
255
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
been guided under the different governments since
1789. This declaration, which is to be read to his
family at the same time as his will, is said to contain
some curious comments on the political crises in
which he has figured. The whole is dated in 1836.
It also contains the strictest prohibition to his heirs
from publishing his memoirs (which are, it is said,
deposited in England), till thirty years after the day
of his death. Everything else published in his name
before that period is to be disavowed. M. de Tal-
leyrand expresses his wish to be buried at Valençay,
and ends his will by declaring that he dies a be-
liever in the Roman Catholic religion.
The end of M. de Talleyrand was not only
attended with great pain, but the wound in his
back, which had spread down his hip, prevented his
lying down, or even keeping a reclining posture.
He sat on the side of his bed for the last forty-eight
hours, leaning forwards, and supported by two ser-
vants, who were relieved every two hours. In this
attitude he was attended to the last by his family
and various friends, while the numerous servants
in his hotel gathered in the adjacent room. It
was in miniature the scene of the death of the old
kings of France. He died in public. The library
adjoining the Prince's bedroom, and from which it
was only separated by a portière or curtain, was
constantly filled with servants and dependants. Fre-
quently one of them would draw back the curtain
when unobserved, saying to those in attendance,
Voyons a-t-il signé? Est il mort?" His voice
failed him at twelve o'clock in the day, and at a
66
·
256
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
quarter before four o'clock, as Lady Sandwich called
at the gate to inquire after him, a servant came
down to the porter in his lodge to announce that
he had just expired. M. de Talleyrand had been
so often ill, and had so often recovered, that even
at his age of eighty-four, he would not believe that
his case was hopeless. On this account he so long
persisted in refusing to sign his recantation, or to
receive a priest, being determined not to make this
public avowal of a religious feeling, little in tenor
with his past life, till he was absolutely on the point
of quitting it.
It was a perseverance in the dread of public opi-
nion to the last hour which was fearful. At the
moment when he was summoned into the presence
of his God he seemed more anxious to avoid the
scoffs of the world in case of his recovery, which
was impossible, than to make his peace with Heaven,
before that tribunal where his appearance must
be immediate and inevitable. His acquiescence at
last was only obtained by the entreaties of the little
Pauline*, who told him if he deferred his signature
she should feel miserable for the rest of her life.
The comments of the world on his death are, as
may be supposed, various. The Legitimists say,
"Il est mort en bon gentilhomme." A lady of the
vieille cour said last night in my hearing, "Enfin il
est mort en homme qui sait vivre." And M. de
* Daughter of his niece, the Duchesse de Dino, now Comtesse
H. de Castellane.
1838.]
257
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Blancmesnil said, "Après avoir roué tout le monde,
il a voulu finir par rouer le bon Dieu.”
His splendid hotel is left to the Duchesse de
Dino, with everything that it contains: the whole
may amount, with the money bequeathed, to some
millions. To her daughter Pauline are left about
80,000 francs a year.
Sunday, 20th.-Prince Talleyrand on Thursday
morning seeing his great-niece, the daughter of Baron
Talleyrand, who had just taken her first communion,
said, "Such is life! There you see its beginning,
here its end." He then presented her with a gold
watch. By his will 300,000 francs are secured to
the Duc de Dino, which are of no use to him as they
are already sold to his creditors; 600,000 francs are
left to Madame d'Esclignac; a million was secured
to Baron Talleyrand on his marriage with his present
wife, who was a young lady brought up in the
Prince's family. Not a liard to the Noailles, who
had every right to expect to have a place in his will.
There was a deliberation in the Council as to seizing
the Prince's private papers, but probably the news
that he had deposited them in England stopped this
act of injustice.
Prince Charles de Beauvau sat with me this morn-
ing and recounted many anecdotes of Talleyrand.
*
*
*
*
*
When the Prince at length signed his recantation
on Thursday he antedated the document to the day
in March when he made his speech in the Academy,
being the period when he actually drew up the last
VOL. III.
$
258
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
codicil to his will. He was then even preparing to
show a Christian feeling, but determined it should
never be known to the public, till he himself was
out of reach of hearing the comments.
He was invested with the following orders; a
Knight of the Holy Ghost, Grand Cross of the Le-
gion of Honour, Knight of the Golden Fleece, Grand
Cross of St. Stephen of Hungary, the Elephant of
Denmark, Charles III. of Spain, the Soter of Greece,
the Sun of Persia, the Conception of Portugal, the
Black Eagle of Prussia, St. Andrew of Russia, the
Crown of Saxony, and St. Joseph of Tuscany.
Monday, 21st.-The celebrated comic actor Potier
died two days ago at Fontenay-sous-bois, aged sixty-
four.
"
The Temps" has the following remark on the
Nations of the world: "England is a vast manu-
factory, a great laboratory, an universal counting-
house. France is a rich farm, turning itself into a
manufactory. Germany is an ill-cultivated field, be-
cause they are philosophers, and not peasants, who till
it. Southern Italy is a villa in ruins. Northern Italy
is an artificial prairie. Belgium is a forge. Holland
is a canal. Sweden and Denmark are carpenters'
yards. Poland is a sandy heath. Russia is an ice-
house. Switzerland is a chalet. Greece is a field in
a state of nature. Turkey is a field fallow. India
is a gold mine. Egypt is a workshop for apprentices.
Africa is a furnace. Algiers is a nursery ground.
Asia is a grove. The Antilles are sugar refineries.
South America is a store. North America is a till
full. Spain a till empty."
1838.]
259
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Tuesday, 22nd.-M. de Talleyrand was buried at
the Church of the Assumption, where his body is to
lie a short time till the vault at Valençay is finished,
when it will be transported there. The funeral was
public, attended by all the ministers, peers, and
foreign ambassadors, but every avenue to the streets
through which the procession passed was so blocked
up by troops that no one could see it. The royalty
of July seems to dread an assemblage of people on
any occasion. The "Courier Français" says of him,
"In France success absolves from every crime, from
every infamy, and confers every virtue, and every
species of distinction. The man who so long served,
mocked, deceived, and betrayed all governments, ap-
pears to us so great with the cortége of vices and
misdeeds which signalised his career, that adulation
is at a loss for terms in which to praise him. He is
not yet deified, but he is placed on a footing with
Sovereigns, and called the last of the Grands Seig-
neurs, as Fleury the actor was called the last of the
Marquis's. This mark of homage was certainly due
to both of these great comedians. If Talleyrand
was great, his greatness awakened sentiments, which
were a powerful corrective for those whom it might
dazzle or inspire with envy. The "Commerce "
accompanies a brief description of the obsequies of
Prince Talleyrand with a remark that the honours
paid to his memory received no éclat from the slight-
est expression of national sympathy. The device of
Rien que Dieu, which ornamented the catafalque of
one who passed his whole existence in betraying
S 2
260
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
kings and nations, this journal regards as a sarcasm
upon the Divinity.
Wednesday, 23rd. In the evening at the Vi-
comtesse de Noailles', the death of M. de Talleyrand
was the general subject of conversation.
The Belgium affair, lately resumed by the Con-
ference in London, has become at once more com-
plicated and serious; the King of Holland, who had
long refused to accede to the proposed treaty, now
is decided to accept it, and Belgium is become the
dissentient party in its turn,—that is, the people of
Belgium will not allow Leopold to give up Luxem-
bourg. This mushroom king is placed in a double
dilemma: if he refuses to ratify the treaty, the allied
sovereigns will force him into compliance, and if he
consents to ratify, his subjects will probably drive
him from his throne. He has written strongly to
his father-in-law for assistance, but Louis-Philippe
knows full well that should he interfere with an
armed force, it will be the signal for a general war
with the allied powers.
The cause of Don Carlos is not prosperous, and
his reverses may be imputed to his own bigoted
prejudices: he obstinately refuses to show any con-
ciliatory feelings. When near Madrid last year, if
he had offered an amnesty to the national guard of
that city, he might easily have made a successful
entry, but he will show no disposition to forgive his
enemies. There is a large party in the Capital and
in the country of moderates, friends to the Estatuto
Real, and enemies to the Constitution of La Granja
who would readily join him if they were certain to
1838.]
261
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
avoid future persecution. Among others the Duc
d'Ossuna* said the other day, that such were his
sentiments, and those of many of his friends.
Don Carlos's best general is Cabrera, who is a sort
of Zumalacarreguy, and has near 20,000 men under
his command: the opposing General, Espartero, has
some military talent, but is very dilatory in action,
and sometimes passes whole days in bed drinking
chocolate.
Thursday, 24th. The Liberal party are very
much vexed at M. de Talleyrand's recantation.
Thiers says that he ought to have died as he had
lived. The papers mention the death of an old
comrade at White's,-Sir Joseph Copley.
When I was walking in the crowd at Talleyrand's
funeral I was struck with the various comments made
by the people who were assembled to see the cortége.
It had been announced previously in the journals
that the procession should pass through the Place
de Louis Quinze, the Rue Royale, and the Rue St.
Honoré, which would have given ample opportunity
to all to see it from the terrace of the gardens; but
from some sudden apprehensions in the Government
this plan was changed on the preceding night, and
the line of march was taken straight from the Rue
St. Florentin into the Rue St. Honoré. The dis-
appointed spectators cried out, "Voyez donc, il
nous trompe même en mourant." There was great
indignation also expressed at the imposing number
of troops, which blocked up all the avenues to the
* Brother to the present Duc d'Ossuna: he died in 1844.
s 3
262
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
church of the Ascension, and would allow no one to
approach the procession. The people exclaimed,
"Voilà un enterrement public, et il n'est pas permis
au peuple de le voir."
-one
Sunday, 27th.-The motto of the Talleyrand
family, Re que Diou Re que Lou Rey, is one of the
oldest of the Perigord country, and was adopted by
this family after the Crusades. The Perigord tradi-
tions preserve the names of two noble families,—o
called Taillerang, the other Taillefer; appellations
given them at that period, and considered as honour-
able as the Manche Tailladée of the Montmorencys.
The Taillefers have preserved the original orthography
of their name, but the Taillerangs have suffered theirs
to be corrupted into Talleyrand. The Duchesse de
Gontaut said this evening that the Prince before his
death spoke often with great pleasure of his early
days, passed in the seminary of St. Sulpice, and a
fortnight before his decease drew up with his own
hand the declaration to be remitted to the Archbishop.
This document exists, and is covered with corrections
and erasures. The declaration and the letter to the
Pope were read a few hours before his death, in the
presence of several members of his family, his physi-
cians, &c. The Prince on being asked what date he
wished to be appended to these documents said,
with a clear voice, " The date of my discourse to the
Academy." It has been reported that M. Perey, a
secretary of the Prince, who had retained copies of
parts of his memoirs, will publish them if not bought
off by the family, but that gentleman has since openly
contradicted the assertion.
#
1838.]
263
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
The following character of Talleyrand, evidently
written by one acquainted with him in England, has
appeared in the "Morning Post," and is worthy of
remark:-" Talleyrand is certainly the most extra-
ordinary being of his kind the world has produced
since the creation. Take him in his physical con-
formation alone, and think of his having outlived so
long all the great and good of his time.
"Talleyrand was born lame, and his limbs are fas-
tened to his trunk by an iron apparatus, on which he
strikes ever and anon his gigantic cane, to the great
dismay of those who see him for the first time-an
awe not diminished by the look of his piercing grey
eyes, peering through his shaggy eyebrows, his
unearthly face, marked with deep stains, covered
partly by his shock of extraordinary hair, partly by
his enormous muslin cravat, which supports a large
protruding lip drawn over his upper lip, with a
cynical expression no painting could render; add to
this apparatus of terror, his dead silence, broken
occasionally by the most sepulchral guttural mono-
syllables. Talleyrand's pulse, which rolls a stream
of enormous volume, intermits and pauses at eveyr
sixth beat. This he constantly points out triumph-
antly as a rest of nature, giving him at once a
superiority over other men. Thus he says, all the
missing pulsations are added to the sum total of those
of his whole life, and his longevity and strength
appear to support this extraordinary theory. He
likewise asserts that it is this which enables him to
do without sleep. Nature, says he, sleeps and
recruits herself at every intermission of my pulse.
S 4
264
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
And indeed you see him time after time rise at three
o'clock in the morning from the whist table, then
return home and often wake up one of his secretaries
to keep him company or to talk of business.
"At four he will go to bed, sitting nearly bolt
upright in his bed, with innumerable nightcaps on
his head to keep it warm, as he said, and feed his
intellect with blood, but in fact to prevent his in-
juring the seat of knowledge if he tumbles on the
ground; and he sits upright from his tendency to
apoplexy, which would no doubt seize him if per-
fectly recumbent.* We may remember the news-
papers stating he was found a few years ago, his head
having dropped from his pillow, so drowned in blood
that no feature was to be seen. Although he goes
to bed so late, at six or seven at latest he wakes and
sends for his attendants. He constantly refers to the
period when he was Minister of Foreign Affairs, and
when this power to live without sleep enabled him
to go out and seek information, as well as pleasure.
in society, till twelve or one o'clock. At that hour
he returned to his office, read over all the letters
that had arrived in the day, put marginal indications.
of the answers to be given, and then on waking again
at six, read over all the letters written in consequence
of his orders.
"When Talleyrand was engaged in the protocols
here, he used to tire out all his younger colleagues;
*Prince Talleyrand's bed was made with a deep slope in the
middle, rising equally at the head and at the feet, his nearest ap-
proach to lying down. It was his habit to eat nothing until dinner-
time. At this, his only meal during the four and twenty hours, his
appetite was enormous.
1838.]
265
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
and full well we know by experience that at the
time of the Quadruple Treaty, and on many other
occasions, his eyes were wide open while Lord Pal-
merston slept. When the storm of the three
glorieuses broke over Paris, too happy to escape from
France, Talleyrand came over to England. One
cannot refrain from laughing on thinking how he
appeared then. He gave his audiences to his coun-
trymen in his salon in Hanover Square with a round
hat on his head, on the front of which was a tri-
coloured cockade six inches square; whilst lying
tout au long on the sofas were three young sans
culottes of July he had brought with him to give
himself an air of Republicanism. Louis-Philippe
got settled on his throne, the tricoloured cockade was
torn off the round hat and thrown into the fire, and
the new-born embryos of Republicanism were sent
back to Paris. Talleyrand, freed from all fear of the
Republic, gave vent to all his natural despotism.
He then had here the whole world at his feet; all
the nobility of England sought his society with
eagerness; the diplomatists of every nation bowed be-
fore him. Lord Palmerston alone resisted Talleyrand,
not only in great things, but in the most trifling and
childish affairs. Talleyrand then used to settle affairs
beforehand with Lord Grey and Lord Holland.
Lord Palmerston managed, however, to annoy Talley-
rand, who, tired of bickering on trifles, and doubtful
what turn affairs would take as regarded the two
parties in the State, with both of which he wished
to keep on good terms,-Talleyrand, we repeat, took
the first opportunity of going on leave to France,
266
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
from whence he gave in his resignation. All we shall
add further is, that Talleyrand is not a man of
imagination nor of invention. He never could make
an extempore speech in his life. His forte is his
impassibility and his cool and perfect judgment. He
is very silent, and is always stimulating those who
approach him to talk on the important subjects of the
day. He will listen for hours to the opinions of
men of mediocrity: and out of all he hears, makes up
those webs in which other politicians get involved
like giddy flies. To this power of judgment Talley-
rand adds that without which neither statesmen nor
generals can ever succeed, namely, exceedingly good
luck."
Wednesday, 30th. I received a letter from Charles
Greville. He says:
"I cannot say how sorry I
am for Talleyrand's death. He was one of the last
of that great school of politeness and social eminence
which is now nearly if not quite extinct; and
whatever he may have been in youth and middle
age, his declining years have ebbed away with
tranquillity, and in the constant exercise of many
very admirable qualities, as well as of a conservative
wisdom and moderation, becoming to himself, and
beneficial to the world. He will be a loss to the
King of the French, for his counsels were always
prized by him, and he combined in himself a sort of
link between the old and new men.'
""
Thursday, 31st.-I went in the morning to the
Louvre with Fitzharris to see the new Spanish pic-
tures lately collected by Baron Taylor. There are a
few fine paintings, but some of the subjects, particu-
1838.]
267
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
larly the "Death of Cato," are too disgusting to be
seen even on canvas.
Friday, June 1st. - The Perigord motto of the
Talleyrand family, Rien que Dieu, brings to mind
another no less remarkable, which was to be seen
up to the time of the Revolution over the gateway of
the Château de Lusignan in the Agenais:
"Lous Lusignan soun tan audessus des autres gens,
Que l'ore est audessus de l'argent."
The trials of Huber, Mademoiselle Grouvelle, and
others for an attempt against the King's life, which
has been little substantiated, is just terminated, and
the condemned are sentenced to various terms of
imprisonment.
A few years ago Major-General D—, seventy-
nine years of age, was summoned before the Correc-
tional Tribunal of Versailles for illegally wearing
the ribbon of the Legion of Honour.
A letter was
read from the Chancellor of the Order, which stated
that his name was not inscribed in the registers of
the Chancery. The old gentleman answered, with
tears in his eyes, that he did not know whether or
not he was inscribed, but that he had received the
Cross from the hands of Napoleon on the field of
Wagram, and that he had received twenty-two
wounds in the service of his country. M. Villerot,
his counsel, made a long defence, in which he enu-
merated the services of the gallant veteran, but the
Court imposed a fine of 50 frs.
Saturday, 2nd.-I went with Fitzharris to see
the artillery, the church of St. Sulpice, and the
268
[JUNE,
JOURNAL OF
Pantheon, over which is written, "Aux grands
hommes la patrie reconnaissante." Except Voltaire,
Rousseau, and Marshal Lasnes, I saw no names that
have figured in history, but there are vaults spacious
enough to contain more great men than France will
ever produce in future. The time for great men is
passed; in the present age of equality there is but
slight chance that any individual can raise his head
above another. None avows the superiority of his
neighbour, for in France all are the equals of their
superiors, and the superiors of their equals. A great
man in history signifies one who concentrates in
himself the rights and importance of many; but at
the present day, when society has been individualised
by the Charter, and when each has his personal
value, which he seeks to render exclusive without
merit, it may be readily conceived that the social
superiorities, to which the mass formerly served as a
pedestal, no longer exist. As equality is founded
on selfishness, it gives birth to jealousy and is niggard
of praise to others.
Tuesday, 5th.-I went with Fitzharris to the
Père la Chaise. The burying-ground consists of
110 acres, in which there are at present assembled
about 50,000 tombs, some very magnificent; that
which struck me most was an iron railing surround-
ing two tombstones of a mother and daughter. Over
the latter, who died in 1828, was written, "J'attends
ma mère.”
Over the former, who died in 1832, "Je réjoins
ma fille."
The cemetery belongs to the city of Paris, and
1838.]
269
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
the ground sells for enormous prices, the lowest is
520 frs., but rising according to a regular tariff for
additional space to above 40,000 or 50,000 frs. for a
simple monument. That of Casimir Perier, which
was bought by the nation, contains so much ground
that the extraordinary price of 300,000 frs., or
12,000l., was paid for it.
Wednesday, 6th.-A letter from Vienna states
that M. de Tatischeff, having learnt that twelve
pieces of cannon of large calibre had been sent from
Vienna to Prince Milosch, addressed Prince Metter-
nich in these terms: "You are furnishing your
enemies with arms. One day Milosch will arm the
Servians, and then you will attribute it to the intrigues
of Russia." "Your forget, Sir," replied Metternich,
"that these twenty-four pounders are not mountain
guns, and are fit only to be used on the plains of
Wallachia against the armies of your Sovereign.
Besides, England will send arms to Milosch, and
Count Molé would do the same if he dared. We
may as well, therefore, take Milosch's money as that
of anybody else."
Friday, 8th. Yesterday died Madame Junot,
Duchesse d'Abrantes, after a short illness, in her
fifty-fourth year. She had written so much on the
same subject, that the public at last was surfeited
with her never-ending memoirs.
There is a great assemblage of distinguished
persons at Berlin. The Emperor and Empress of
Russia, King and Queen of Hanover, and various
German princes, who seem to have politics as well
as pleasure for the object of their visit.
270
[JUNE,
JOURNAL OF
Sunday, 10th.-A review of the National Guard
by the King, which went off quietly, but the pre-
cautions more rigid than ever to keep the people
removed from the spot. On the preceding night it
was still kept a secret where the review would be
held.
The Duchesse d'Abrantes died at a maison de santé
in Chaillot, in very indigent circumstances.
Thursday, 14th. - Fitzharris went to England.
When the Prince of Orange harangued the mob at
Portsmouth on his arrival in England, to succeed
James II., he said, "We are come for your good, for
all your goods."
A universal principle, said Swift, of all govern-
ments; but, like most other truths, only told by
mistake.
Friday, 22nd.-Lord has fought a duel with
Grisi's soi-disant husband, M. Melzy, who took
offence at his writing to her a letter. He was
wounded in the wrist. M. is little better than a
chevalier d'industrie, who wishes to obtain some
éclat in the world by calling out a nobleman.
Monday, 25th.-Lord Willoughby having written
to ask me to send him a cook from Paris, I have had
various candidates for the office, and among them
some who have served in the kitchen of the late M.
de Talleyrand, which was always modelled upon
that of the old French noblesse before the Revolu-
tion. Those who have not been initiated in those
esculent mysteries, would be surprised at the expense
and luxury which reigned in that department. There
were four chefs, the rotisseur, the saucier, the
1838.]
271
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
patissier, and the officier, this latter superintending
the dessert, the ices, and the confitures. In all, there
were ten men regularly employed in producing the
Prince's dinner, which was not only exquisite in its
kind, but also adapted to his state of health, com-
prising the essence of everything nutritious in the
garb most light and digestible for an infirm stomach.
The Prince was always a great eater, but only once
a day, and generally tasted of every dish, following
each mouthful with a sip of wine to humour the
palate. The expense of his table was unlimited, his
cook had carte blanche, and he often remarked, “
Why
does not he spend more?" He was an epicure in
the widest sense of the term, and those who were about
him have assured me that the talents of his cook had
assisted more in the prolongation of his lengthened
existence, than the skill of the physician who always
attended him. It was the only regular table of
the old school kept up in France: fortunes are so
diminished, that none of the nobility could bear
the expense; and the parvenus of the day, though
rolling in wealth, have neither the taste nor the re-
finement necessary to form such an establishment.
Thus M. de Talleyrand, with his reminiscences of
the old Court, and the enjoyment of an immense
income, stood alone in society as the representative
of the luxurious French noble of former days.
His fortune was at times subject to vicissitudes,
but his losses were never of a nature to curtail the
constant indulgence of all his pleasures. His wealth
under the Empire was enormous, but Napoleon
latterly deprived him of a part, by taxing him with
272
[JUNE,
JOURNAL OF
the support of the Spanish Royal family at Va-
lençay. Although he was possessor already of a
princely fortune, his income had been increased
since the Revolution of July by a yearly pension of
100,000 francs regularly paid to him by King Louis-
Philippe, in remembrance of his services.
Tuesday, 26th.-Yesterday morning died General
Haxo, the first engineer officer in Europe. He served
for many years under Napoleon, and directed the
siege of Antwerp in 1833; he has since lived in the
retirement of private life. His favourite amusement
was chess, in which he was a great proficient, and
his predominant feeling was hatred to the English
nation. He was a man of rough exterior and simple
habits.
The project for the reduction of the 5 per cents.
was thrown out in the Chamber of Peers by a large
majority,-124 to 34.
The Duc de Nemours is arrived in England for
the Coronation, as also the following extraordinary
Ambassadors from the foreign powers:- Prince
Schwartzenburg (Austria), Count Strogonoff (Rus-
sia), Prince Putbus (Prussia), Marshal Soult (France),
Duke de Palmella (Portugal), Baron Van de Ca-
pellan (Holland), Marquis de Miraflores (Spain),
Prince de Ligne (Belgium), Marquis de Brignole
(Sardinia), Count Lowenhelm (Sweden). All pre-
pared to emulate each other in magnificence and
fêtes. The concourse of foreigners will bring a great
influx of money into the country. Strogonoff's esta-
blishment is so large, that he has hired the contiguous
houses of Lord Caledon and Lord Stuart de Rothe-
1838.]
273
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
say on Carlton Terrace, and made a communication
between them, for which he pays 2,5007. for six weeks.
*
*
*
""
Mr. Fox very often used to say, "I wonder what
Lord Z. will think of this." Lord Z. happened to
be very stupid, and the curiosity of Mr. Fox's
friends was naturally excited to know why he at-
tached so much importance to the opinion of such
an ordinary commonplace person.
"His opinion,'
said Mr. Fox, "is of much more importance than
you are aware of. He is an exact representation of
all commonplace English prejudices; and what Lord
Z. thinks of any measure, the great majority of
English people will also think. It would be a good
thing if every Cabinet of philosophers had a Lord
Z. among them."
Wednesday, 27th. The hospital of the Quinze-
Vingts was founded by St. Louis as an infirmary for the
blind, and derived its name from the number of 300
knights left by him as hostages with the Soldan of
Egypt during the wars, and sent back to France by
the Soldan, after he had caused their eyes to be put
out. They were first received into this charitable
establishment, and in process of time it was opened
for the reception of the lower orders. A certain
number of members of both sexes are admitted who
are not deprived of sight, that they may aid, lead,
and take care of the blind.
Thursday, 28th. The day appointed for the Coro-
nation of Queen Victoria; and if the weather is the
same as in Paris, incessant rain will make it a dreary
sight. The demon of discontent prevails in the
VOL. III.
T
274
[JUNE,
JOURNAL OF
French Embassy. Marshal Soult, who was deter-
mined not to arrive till after the celebration of
Waterloo, is placed last of the extraordinary Ambas-
sadors, who are classed in precedence according to
the date of their arrival in England; and, as the
Queen gave a concert on that evening to all the
foreigners, the French construe it into an affront.
Louis-Philippe is in a peck of troubles about it, and
wishing to keep well with all parties, i. e., with Eng-
land and with his Ambassadors, ne sait pas à quel
saint se vouer!
The following new Peerages are announced in the
Gazette:
The Earl of Kintore
Viscount Lismore
Lord Rossmore
Baron Kintore.
Baron Lismore.
Baron Rossmore.
•
Lord Carew
Hon. W. C. Ponsonby.
Charles Hanbury Tracey
Paul Methuen
Sir John Wrottesley
Baron Carew.
Baron de Mauley.
Baron Sudeley.
•
Baron Methuen.
Baron Wrottesley.
The following elevations also are announced:
Earl of Mulgrave
Lord Dundas
Lord King
•
Marquis of Normanby.
Earl of Zetland.
Earl of Lovelace, Viscount Ockham.
The following specimen of oratory was exhibited
yesterday, before the President of the Police Office,
by M. Maugni. M. Maugni is, the Chevalier Bayard
of his quartier; he is the protector of his friends, the
avenger of damsels in distress,-in other words, he
is for ever interfering in the quarrels of others. This
time, it was his friend Martin, whose cause he sup-
1838.]
275
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
ported against the Municipal Guard, who were lead-
ing him to prison for making a riot in a public-house:
he rescued him, carried him off in his arms, when
the guard being reinforced, took them both into
custody.
C
"Martin, c'est un chiffe, une poule mouillée, une
vraie drogue, une femme, quoi! Un verre de vin,
et plus d'homme! Ne bois donc pas, malheureux !
puisque tu ne t'y connois pas.' Il étoit bû comme
on n'est pas; on le bouscule, on le pulverise. Je
vois ça, je connois les lois. On ne doit pas abuser
de la force publique. Je dis aux municipaux, ‘Mes
amis, laissez moi faire, je vais mettre le camarade
dans ma poche, et il ne troublera plus la société.'
Là-dessus je prends mon Martin, et nous voilà partis.
Il faisoit bien des évolutions, il voulait jouer des
bras, des jambes, mais connu, j'étois maître du cama-
rade. Un joueur de violon, vous comprenez, ça n'est
pas lourd! C'est pas de gratter le boyau avec un
archet, qui peut donner du physique à un homme.
Voilà que tout étoit fini quand la grêle arriva.
Trois patrouilles, nom d'un petit bon homme, une
armée en règle! Ils m'ont étranglé, M. le President,
en voici les marques; ils m'ont serré la rue au pain,
que j'étois bleu comme un soldat du centre.' (Se tour-
nant vers les témoins), Vous avez abusé du nombre,
soldats français, et ce n'est pas français, c'est moi qui
vous le dis. J'avois de bonnes intentions, je voulois
defendre l'homme faible, et incapable de vous nuire,
et vous m'avez traité comme un Bedouin. Soldats
français ! je suis votre frère, pourquoi m'avez-vous
assassiné!"
T 2
276
[JUNE,
JOURNAL OF
The cause was heard with indulgence, and Martin
and Maugni had only twenty-four hours of prison.
Friday, 29th.-The wish to avoid capital punish-
ment in France has been carried to such a pitch,
that in some instances the crime of parricide has
been found to have extenuating circumstances, for no
other purpose than to supersede the penalty of
death.
At the Court of Assize at Nantes, on the 26th
inst., Réné Daudin, not only convicted of the
murder of his father, but proved to have previously
beaten him and threatened his life, was found guilty
by the jury on all the counts, but with les circon-
stances attenuantes, which saved his life: he was sen-
tenced to perpetual hard labour.
The Court was astonished, and the "Gazette des
Tribunaux" prints the words of the verdict in capital
letters.
Saturday, 30th. It appears that the weather on
Thursday was fair in London, and the Coronation
went off with considerable success. The modes of
conveyance are now so rapid and so easy of access,
in England, that the crowds, who were assembled
in the metropolis to witness this public show, were
beyond all calculation.
Monday, July 2nd.- Glengall writes to me that
Soult was so much cheered, both in and out of the
Abbey, that he was completely overcome. He has
since publicly said, "C'est le plus beau jour de ma
vie, il prouve que les Anglais pensent que j'ai
toujours fait la guerre en loyal homme." When in
the Abbey he seized the arm of his aide-de-camp,
1838.]
277
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
quite overpowered, and said, "Ah! vraiment, c'est
un brave peuple."
Hume and O'Connell were hooted in the streets.
Tuesday, 3rd. This day the hotel of the late
Prince Talleyrand was sold by auction for 1,181,000
francs-about 45,000%.
Wednesday, 4th.-There is only one voice about
's conduct in bringing out his article in the
"Quarterly Review" about Soult and the battle of
Toulouse at this moment, in defiance of the Duke's
wishes, and his impertinent rejection of the Duke's
earnest request to him by letter not to do it; and
this after getting from the Duke an account of the
battle, which they say he has likewise altered.
Much of the marked reception given to the Marshal
in London may be traced to a wish of palliating this
inhospitable tirade.
The French papers of the Liberal party speak of
the pageant of the Coronation with the weak spite
that betrays a sore place, the consciousness that
their monarchy of July dares not, by such a step,
proclaim its existence.
Monday, 9th. I met the other day at Versailles
Madame de Balbi, now grown old, but formerly
well known by the long attachment which she in-
spired in Louis XVIII. when Comte de Provence.
Her irregularities during the emigration, particularly
at Rotterdam, with the Duc de Talleyrand, came to
the ears of the royal lover, who broke off the inter-
course by letter, saying, "La femme de César ne
doit pas être soupçonnée." She wrote the following
T 3
278
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
reply:"Je ne suis pas votre femme, et vous
n'avez aucun rapport avec César."
Tuesday, 10th.-The Chamber of Peers has lately
been assembled to try M. Laity for publishing a
pamphlet descriptive of the late conspiracy at Stras-
bourg. He has been found guilty of an attempt
against the safety of the State, and condemned to
five years' imprisonment, a fine of 10,000 francs, and
placed under the surveillance of the police for the
rest of his life. It is not only a harsh and severe
sentence, but the conduct of the Government itself
is reprobated generally in bringing such a trumpery
cause before the Peers, while the actors in this
conspiracy had been tried before a common jury,
and acquitted. It shows the restless and suspicious
feeling which actuates the monarchy of July.
very
Friday, 13th.-The Russians have taken Teheran,
the capital of Persia, and our Minister, Macneill,
is said to have left the place.
The Emperor seems to be inclined to cajole Louis-
Philippe. He met Horace Vernet at Berlin, and
launched out into such praise of the King's conduct,
that Vernet asked if he might repeat them to his
sovereign, which the other readily permitted.
The Rue des Mauvais-Garçons, in the faubourg
St.-Germain, was formerly the Rue de Craon in the
reign of Charles VI. In it was the hotel of Pierre
de Craon, who, with his followers, attempted to
assassinate the Connétable Clisson, as he was re-
turning home at night from the palace. In conse-
quence of which crime he was condemned to death,
and his house was razed to the ground. The
1838.]
279
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Cimetière St. Jean now occupies the spot where it
stood.
Saturday, 14th.-A trial for murder took place
yesterday in the Criminal Court, when Jadin was
found guilty of robbery and murdering a maid-
servant, named Hermance, in the Rue des Petites.
Ecuries. The avocat-général, in his address to
the jury, adverted to the abuse that had been made
on former occasions of the term circonstances atten-
uantes: he ended with saying, "Il faut un verdict
complet, énergique, et non pas adouci, amolli par
cet accessoire, dont on a fait tant d'abus." It created
much sensation. Jadin was condemned to death.
Thursday, 19th.-At three o'clock this morning I
left Paris with Yarmouth for the Carlsbad waters.
We breakfasted at eight at Laferté, dined at Epernay
at six o'clock, and as, in travelling, it is always right
to drink the wine grown in the country, we drank
two bottles of champagne, and resumed our journey
through the night.
Friday, 20th.-Arrived at Metz, where we staid
four hours, to dress and dine. Travelled again
through the night, and on Saturday, 21st, found
ourselves, at eight in the evening, at Mayence, where
we supped, and retired to rest.
Sunday, 22th.-After viewing the Cathedral, a
parade of the Prussian troops, and taking a walk
round the town, we resumed our journey at one, P.M.,
and arrived at Frankfort to dinner at the Römische
Kaiser. Here I found Sir Andrew Barnard return-
ing from his eastern expedition, looking very well,
not withstanding the current report of his death
T 4
280
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
which had been circulated two months ago.
After
a dinner, not at all corresponding with the fame of
this city for good living, we set off at nine o'clock,
and journeying through an uninteresting country,
ut by good roads, during Monday, we arrived on
Tuesday, 24th, at night, at Wissenstadt, a wretched
nn, where we slept, and quitting it as early as we
could, on
Wednesday, 25th, we arrived at Carlsbad, at ten
o'clock, and took up our quarters at the Hôtel du
Paradis.
Thursday, 26th.-The inns here are bad, and ours.
corresponds little with its name. The beds are so
narrow and so short, that they seem made for a
smaller race of beings. The fare is very simple as
ordered by the physicians, and wretchedly dressed.
We have found here many acquaintance,-Ma-
tuscewitz, Delamarre, Prince Labanoff, and of Eng-
lish-Tisdale and Haye, Mr. and Madame Graham.
The place is full of Russians and Poles. At night
arrived Lady W. Russell, with her family, from
Berlin.
According to the usual form, I had an interview
with Dr. Meisner, one of the physicians established
here. He prescribed, to begin with, the spring of
Marie-Therese; to get up at half-past five, and take
one tumbler soon after six, and three more in the
three following quarters, walking about between the
potations; then an hour's walk before breakfast,
which is to consist of nothing but dry bread and
milk coffee. The simplest food at dinner, with a
quarter of a bottle of wine: to bed at 10 o'clock at
1838.]
281
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
latest. Then the next day an additional tumbler, till
we get to ten.
Friday, 27th.-We began this new life; but the
weather has set in cold and rainy, which much im-
pedes the effect of these waters. In our evening
walk, we were literally drenched with a storm, till
we took refuge at Madame Graham's house on the
Wiese (or meadow).
Saturday, 28th.-We met Madame Delphine
Potocka at the spring, who has been here some
weeks, and Chas. Kemble with his daughter, who
has a fine and very powerful voice, and is preparing
for the stage.
We went to their house in the even-
ing to hear some music.
Sunday, 29th.-I met Madame Falck* on the
public walk. Her husband is here, but laid up with
the gout. I passed the evening at Madame Graham's,
where I found Madame Delphine, Hay, and Tisdale.
Monday, 30th.—I called on Lady W. Russell, who
is looking very well, and who mentioned a story of
Talleyrand. When he was at Valençay with a large
party, the little Pauline came into the drawingroom
where they were assembled, and the Prince said to
her, "Ma chêre, où avez-vous été ?" She replied,
“J'ai été à la messe prier le bon Dieu pour qu'il vous
donne de meilleurs sentimens !" "Petite bête !" said
the Prince. She was brought up very religiously.
Tuesday, 31st.-After the potations to-day, I
walked with Delamarre and Tisdale up the heights
to the Temple of Finlater, built by Lord F-
* M. Falck, formerly Dutch Minister in England.
in
282
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
1801, from whence there is a fine prospect. From
thence we went to the Hirsch Sprung, supposed to
be the spot from whence the stag leaped when pur-
sued by the Emperor Charles IV. into the Sprudel
source, which was the origin of the discovery of these
mineral springs.
In the evening, a concert was given for the poor,
at which Madame Delphine Potocka and Miss Kem-
ble sang; afterwards, there was a ball for the com-
pany, among whom were several pretty women.
Countess Boleslas Potocka, Countess Branicka and
her two daughters, handsome young women with
fortunes of seven millions of roubles, Princess
Radzivil and her daughter the Princess Micheline,
Princess Narischkin, sister to Labanoff, Duchesse de
Rauzan, and her two daughters, &c. &c. There has
been lately a schism between the Prussian and Aus-
trian ladies here, about the important article of
toilette; in consequence of which the latter have left
the field, and established a rival watering-place at
Keitringen.
The Russians do not seem to be generally popular,
as they put on a haughty air to make up for their
humble position at home; but the women have really
a very distinguished manner, and dress with much
taste.
This is a curious place, the entrepôt for visitors
from every nation in Europe, but few English.
Wednesday, August 1st.—I called this morning on
M. Falcke, whom I had not seen since he was Dutch
Minister in London. I found him, though more in-
firm, as agreeable and clever as formerly.
1838.]
283
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Thursday, 2nd.-Madame Potocka gave a concert
at the Sachriscke Saal, which kept us up later than
the medical ordinances allowed. Madame Boleslas,
Radzivils, Grahams, and Prince Wolkonsky, were
there. I remember the latter at Petersburg. He
is grown old, and has a dreadful complaint. Miss
Kemble sang.
Carlsbad numbers among her medical professors
one man who is the bore par excellence. His name
is the Chevalier del Carro. His tongue is inexhaus-
tible, whatever may be the theme; and when he seizes.
your button to ensure your attention, you are almost
irresistibly impelled to leave your coat in his posses-
sion and fly from his persecutions. His cheval de
bataille now is the case of M. de Naundorff, or, as
he styles himself, the Duc de Normandie, whose
rights he most strenuously advocates at Carlsbad.
He called on me this morning, bringing me, of his own
accord, the documents which he left for my perusal.
It is a curious case, and certainly might induce a
strong supposition that he was the Dauphin, son of
Louis XVI., privately removed from the Temple, and
replaced by another child, who died there, for him ;
that he then was brought up in Prussia, married the
daughter of a sergeant in the Prussian army, by whom
he had several children, and at first gained his living
as a watchmaker. He has been examined by Madame
Rambaud, who was one of the Dauphin's governesses,
and who is declared to have found on his person
marks known to herself, and to have been convinced
of his identity by his relation of particular facts
known only to themselves. M. Geoffroy, ancien
284
[AUGUST,
JOURNAL OF
Secrétaire de la Maison des Pages, M. and Madame
St.-Hilaire, old servants of Louis XVI., M. Bumond,
ancien Secrétaire-Général du Ministre de l'Intérieur,
—all bear testimony to the correctness of his replies.
When his claims were stated to Louis XVIII. and
the Dauphine, they would never hear of them, and
privately caused him to be proscribed and persecuted
wherever he went. The most curious case is that of
the casket. He asserts that Louis XVI., in his pre-
sence, deposited in a secret place in the Tuileries,
during the troubles, a casket, containing valuable
jewels and papers, which no one can find but himself;
that he had written to Louis XVIII. for a permission
to take it away as his property, who replied, that he
might have that permission, and retain the jewels,
but not the papers, which was refused. He has since
written to Louis-Philippe to the same effect, who
sent M. de la Borde to him with the following message,
that he would recognise his birth, and give him
leave to take away. the casket, if he would resign his
claim to the throne in his favour; for which he would
engage to give him one million down, and one mil-
lion per annum for his life. This proposal was re-
fused with the same indignation.
He is now living in affluent circumstances at Dres-
den; and the banker Cascell there, told Del Carro
that he might draw on him for any sum he pleased.
These funds are supplied by Carlists in France, who
are convinced of his identity. Louis XVIII., it is
asserted, on his death-bed wished Charles X. to
recognise the claim, though he himself had strenu-
ously denied it during his life, and the Duc de Berry
1838.]
285
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
supported him from conviction, but the Dauphine
has always been most inveterately opposed to him.
Friday, 3rd-There are three principal springs
here. The hottest, and, consequently, the most
violent in its effects, is the Sprudel, which spouts
up from the ground at a boiling heat. This some-
times flies to the head, and produces apoplexy if
taken indiscreetly, and without advice, by those of a
plethoric habit; the next is the Mühlbrunnen; then
the Marie-Therese, considered the most mild, though
all, on analysis, are found to contain nearly the same
proportions of mineral substances differing as to heat.
We dined to-day at the Saxon Saloon, with De la
Marre, Walewski, and Morny, who are just arrived
from Paris. In the evening we went to Madame
Delphine, where we met Radzivils, Grahams, Wa-
lewski, and Count Esterhazy.
Saturday, 4th.—Walewski and Morny dined with
us at our inn. I took a long walk on the Mount
with Madame Delphine Potocka, and passed the
evening with Lady W. Russell and her mother
Mrs. Rawdon.
Sunday, 5th.—A ball given at the Saxon Saloon by
twelve gentlemen, which was a very pretty sight.
A mazourka, danced by Poles, was a perfect per-
formance. Princess Radzivil and Lady W. Russell
did the honours of the fête in receiving the ladies,
and with much grace. There was a mad English-
man of the name of Reid, whom no one knew, who
introduced himself to les Demoiselles Branicka; and
I could not but admire their manner, full of dignity,
and at the same time perfectly civil.
286
[AUGUST,
JOURNAL OF
Monday, 6th.-We both dined at the Saxon Saloon
with a party consisting of Mde. D. Potocka, Prin-
cess Radzivil, and her daughter, Walewski, Morny,
and Count Esterhazy: the dinner was very bad as
usual. In the evening we drove to a delightful
spot called les Trois Chênes, which are of a stupendous
size; the views from hence are picturesque and beau-
tiful. We walked about for above an hour, playing
at various games, Chat et Souris, &c., to amuse
the ladies, and returned to pass the evening at Lady
W. Russell's, where there was music and singing.
Here we found Count d'Aglie, formerly Sardinian
Minister in London, Harcourt, who had just come
from Marienbad, the Grahams, and Madame d'Hog-
guer, the mother of Madame Meyendorff.
"Wüsstest du wie ich mich sehue
Nur nach dir, mein Lebens Licht,
Fühltest du die heisse Thräne
Die aus meinem Herzen bricht.
"Nein, du würdest mich nicht fliehen,
Würdest mild und gütig seyn,
Mich an deinen Busen ziehen,
Liebend, lispelnd, ich bin dein.
"Wir sitzen so fröhlich beisammen,
Wir haben einander so lieb,
Wir heitern einander das Leben,
Ach wenn es nur immer so blieb."
German Carlsbad Ditties.
Tuesday, 7th.-A very small party at Princess
Radzivil's.
Wednesday, 8th.-The husband of Princess Rad-
zivil was one of the chiefs in the late revolution in
1838.]
287
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Poland, and, after the success of the Russian army,
he was sentenced to five years' imprisonment in a
fortress, and all his fortune was confiscated. He
has since been pardoned, but his property was not
restored; fortunately his wife had been a rich heiress,
and brought him on her side eight or ten millions of
roubles, which were saved from the wreck, and still
enable them to live in great splendour. Her con-
stant residence is in Volhynia, where she has two
fine châteaux sumptuously furnished. She has never
been in Paris or Italy, only once at Vienna, and
once before at Carlsbad; she goes frequently to
Cracow or Warsaw; that has been hitherto the ex-
tent of her travels, yet she speaks French like a
native, and has the high-bred manners of a très-
grande dame in the greatest perfection.
Constant heavy rain. Madame Kisseleff arrived
from Paris. Passed the evening with Lady W. Rus-
sell.
Thursday, 9th.-Weather cold as in November.
Dined at the Golden Shield with Walewski and
Morny. Passed the evening at Princess Radzivil's,
where Madame Delphine sang admirably, a M.
Dessauer accompanied; he has a most extraordinary
talent on the piano, is a perfect Paganini in his way
on that instrument. Lady Sandwich and Miss
Galway came from Marienbaden for a few days.
Friday, 10th. After dinner we went to Madame
Graham, and found Lady W. Russell, Lady Sand-
wich, and Miss Galway; then passed the evening
with Madame D. Potocka, where were the usual set.
General Count de Witt came in, and announced
288
[AUGUST,
JOURNAL OF
that the Emperor of Russia had just passed through
the town, changing horses at the bridge in the
strictest incog. He had only two caléches; two
others of his suite had passed unobserved in the
morning, and others by a different route. It is said
that he used these precautions out of fear of assassi-
nation from the Poles, who abound in these districts,
and are outrageous at the chastisement they have
received from him. Count de Witt is half-brother
to the husband of Madame Delphine and to Madame
Boleslas. He is colonel-general of the military
colonies in Russia, and is constantly employed in
visiting those establishments at the most distant
points of the Empire. He told me that he passed
at least 150 days and nights of the year in his car-
riage, that he always travelled at the rate of fifteen
wersts an hour, and that every year he went over
25,000 wersts of country. His idée fixe seems to be
travelling at speed. The Kembles go away to-
morrow, and the town gave Miss K. a serenade this
night before her windows, in return for her singing
at the concert for the poor, which realised 1000
florins.
Saturday, 11th.-Baron Kleist, a judge from Ber-
lin, was to-day at Lady W. Russell's. The Society
in the Prussian capital would appear to be very in-
sipid by their confessions politics are avoided, reli-
gious controversies are prevalent, and the Hereditary
Prince is a firm absolutist and strict Protestant.
He would advocate war if he came to the throne.
*
* The present King.
1838.]
289
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Monday, 13th. This morning at the spring;
walked for a long time with Mr. Abro, an Egyp-
tian, who gave me much information as to the
Pacha's plans. He is certainly decided on declaring
his independence. Abro is nephew of the chief
Minister in Egypt, Bogos; he speaks eight different
languages, and is really well informed on every sub-
ject. He had acted as interpreter to Yarmouth
when he was in the East, at eighteen, and was intro-
duced to Mehemet Ali, and both recognised each
other. He agrees in everything I have written in
my late book, and looks forward to a war of opinion
as inevitable, though it will be deferred as long as
possible. The double policy of Louis-Philippe will
come out when it is seen that he encourages Me-
hemet Ali, though he is an ally of the Porte. He
says the revenue of the Pacha is forty millions of
talaris, his fleet twelve sail of the line, besides
frigates, much superior to the Turkish. He will
consent to pay his tribute, which is but trifling, as
the purses which were formerly equal to fifty guineas
are now depreciated in value to five guineas; but,
in point of policy he will be independent. If the
Sultan should agree to this, which he has hardly the
power to resist, then there will be no war. He
agrees with me in every thing about Russia and
Constantinople. Lady William says that Bresson,
who is now French Minister at Berlin, has been
made a Count by Louis-Philippe, and is treated by
him with great favour. The fact is, that he owes
this to his conduct in Belgium eight years ago.
When intrigues were afloat for the throne of that
VOL. III.
U
290
[AUGUST,
JOURNAL OF
new kingdom, it is well known that great efforts
were made by Louis-Philippe to put forward his
son, the Duc de Nemours, but when it was known
that England would not hear of that nomination, he
pretended that he had never entertained such an
idea, and laid it all on Bresson, who was rewarded
in this manner for taking the obloquy on himself.
Tuesday, 14th.-A large evening party at Lady
Sandwich's: Countess Branicka and her two daugh-
ters, Lady W. Russell, and Mrs. Rawdon, Mesdames
Delphine, and Boleslas Potocka, sundry men, and
M. Dessauer. There was music and singing from
the ladies, and Morny sang some French romances.
Wednesday, 15th. The weather changed again
to cold and rain. To give an idea of the strictness
with which the Emperor scrutinises all the most
trifling events in the empire, Count de Witt re-
lated that on looking over the military returns from
the most distant provinces, he observed that three
or four men in a regiment quartered at Aratschieff
were reported as drowned when bathing. He had
some suspicion that this report was only a cloak to
cover the loss of these men by some misconduct of
the chief. He sent for De Witt, who was his aide-
de-camp in waiting, and ordered him to repair to
the place, which was distant 5000 wersts, and report
to him the truth. He was obliged to set off on this
immense journey at a minute's warning, and tra-
velled night and day without stopping. When he
arrived at Aratschieff his unexpected appearance
created a great sensation; every one thought some
heads were in danger. De Witt merely ordered the
1838.]
291
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
regiment to be under arms at seven in the morning,
and asked the men in the ranks what had become
of their missing comrades; when they, without any
embarrassment, declared publicly that they were
drowned when bathing. He saw that all was right,
and returned with the same speed to the Emperor.
Abro says there is now much luxury introduced
into Egypt. The Pacha lives in great magnificence,
has French cooks, and drinks champagne in great
quantities. His son Ibrahim bought the state car-
riage of Charles X. at the sale in Paris, and has had
one made for himself which cost 3000 guineas, with
harness for six horses, covered with gold and
trappings.
Thursday, 16th. - Yarmouth and I dined with
Lady Sandwich, and met Morny and Walewski.
We walked to the Three Crosses in the evening,
and went to Lady William Russell's, where I met
Baroness D'Utrechs and her daughter, who sings
very well, and is a most amiable unaffected young
person. Her husband is Saxon Minister at Vienna.
Among other guests was Madame d'Hogguer, the
mother of Madame de Meyendorff; her husband was
formerly Dutch Minister at Petersburg, and she
herself is a Russian and Dame du Palais. The old
lady said to young Hastings Russell, "Ces eaux de
Carlsbad me conviennent parfaitement, j'ai mangé
aujurd'hui des champignons, qui ont très bien
passé." When Yarmouth went away, and she asked
me, "Est-il parti?" I replied, "Oui, Madame, il a
passé comme un champignon."
Friday, 17th.-Baron Kleist told us an instance
U 2
292
[AUGUST,
JOURNAL OF
of Russian honesty. The Emperor when at Berlin
was anxious to give a Prussian nobleman, who had
been placed about his person, a present, and sent
him a snuff-box with his picture set in diamonds.
The nobleman wished to ascertain the value, and
gave it to a jeweller for his opinion, who returned
for answer that three days before he would have
given for it 7000 florins, but in its present state he
could only give 700 florins for it, as the diamonds
had been changed.
Went on a party to Elnbogen, which is distant
about eight miles, and famous for the romantic
scenery. Count de Witt, who has twenty horses
here, brought from Russia, supplied three carriages.
We travelled at the Russian pace, full gallop, and
reached our point in half an hour. The view is
delightful from the balcony of the inn. The town
is very ancient, but a new suspension bridge has
been erected over the Eger, which forms a contrast
with the old castle. Servants had been sent for-
ward to prepare a dinner at the inn, which was
served in a great balcony, fifty feet long, fitted up as
a coffee-room for guests, overlooking a most splendid
view of mountain scenery, covered with woods, and
studded with ruins and rocks, while the river winds
through the valley beneath.
The letters here are all subject to be opened at
the Post-office, and many are so in fact without dis-
guise. There are also spies about, particularly from
the Russian Government, to watch the Poles.
Saturday, 18th.-The baths are visibly thinning.
Madame Delphine is gone to Ischel, Hay to Prague,
1838.]
293
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
and Count Metroffsky, whom I have seen much
here, took leave on his departure for Vienna. He
is an agreeable man, aide-de-camp to one of the Arch-
dukes.
We dined at our hotel, as usual; in the evening I
went to Madame Boleslas Potocka.
She was a
Princess Soltikoff, and married very early B. Po-
tocki. There afterwards came in Madame Bashma-
coff (her cousin) with her children, then Count de
Witt, and Capo d'Istrias, brother to him who was
murdered in Greece, in 1833. Madame Schuvaloff,
sister to Madame Boleslas, is living with her, but in
wretched health.
Sunday, 19th. Lady Sandwich went.
I began
the waters of the Sprudel. Went to Walewski's
rooms, where M. de Sures played on the piano for
an hour or two: we then all went to a bourgeois
ball in the Böh mische Hof, where the tradespeople
and grisettes were waltzing and galloping with great
animation.
Monday, 20th. Went to Walewski's and Lady
William Russell.
Tuesday, 21st.
The Grahams, and Walewski,
and Morny, went this morning.
Thursday, 23rd. I went with Yarmouth to the
German theatre, to see the "Miller and his Child,"
which was very well acted. The weather was so
cold that when we got home to drink tea, we positively
sat in our great coats to keep ourselves warm.
Saturday, 25th. - Madame Schuvaloff left Carls-
bad.
Sunday, 26th. After our evening walk, in which
U 3
294
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
we were joined by a gentlemanlike old Pole, Count
Grabowsky, a proposal was made to go to a bour-
geois ball at the Post Hof, which was amusing
enough.
I saw about the town to-day various figures in
purple frock-coats, or green, or brown, with high
varnished Hessian boots, all made alike. I under-
stood it was a bishop and sundry clergymen from
the neighbouring diocese.
As I was walking on the Wiese with De Witt, he
began to talk politics, and owned his conviction that
there would soon be war, for which Russia was already
well prepared and ready to begin. Then, in his
rhodomontade manner he added, "I shall have 20,000
cavalry and sixty pieces of cannon under my com-
mand. On the day of the engagement, I shall say
to the Emperor, Sire, oubliez moi pendant quelques
heures;' and when the decided moment is come, I
shall sweep forward with my troops at full gallop,
and decide the fortune of the day.”
C
Thursday, 30th. - Set off at three o'clock, when,
travelling through the night, we arrived, on
Friday, 31st., at Wernberg to breakfast; from
thence through a pretty country, where the peasantry
all looked very happy, we arrived, at nine at night,
at Ratisbon, being a distance of twenty-four German
miles.
Saturday, September 1st.-We visited the Cathe-
dral, a fine Gothic building, with splendid painted
glass; but the workmen were repairing the interior,
and little was to be seen. From thence we pro-
ceeded to the Rath Haus, where the Emperor for-
1838.]
295
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
merly convened the Diet: the Imperial chair still
remains in the great hall as a souvenir of the past.
Below are the State prisons, a sickly sight to
view.
There are in all sixty dungeons, only four feet
high, little wider than a grave, with no furniture
save a log of wood for a pillow, and deprived of light,
-I might almost say, of air. Here the sufferings
of man must have been intense, but could not have
been long. On the same floor are seen the chamber
of torture, with all the implements of cruelty, used
even as late as the time of Maria Theresa. Pullies,
wheels, and weights remain to attest the fact, that
human beings were racked with sufferings a thousand
times worse than any death. In one instance the
arms were bound behind to a stake, the feet fastened
to stone weights which I could not lift from the
ground, and, at a certain signal, the victim was raised
towards the ceiling by a pulley, which drew every
limb from its socket. Another instrument was the
"Spanish ass," a sharp ridge of wood, on which
the victim was placed seated astride, with weights to
his feet, till his body was cut through by his own
weight.
There was a seat with wooden points, for tearing
away the flesh, and a pointed roller that was drawn
under his back while he lay bound to a wooden
bench. We both left this record of misery with
feelings of horror, which no narrative in books could
have produced.
We pursued our walk through the town, and
came to a pretty garden in the suburbs, kept in good
U 4
296
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
order, and left open to the public. It belongs to the
Prince of Tour and Taxis, and adjoins his château,
which is a considerable pile of buildings, not in good
repair, but forming a fine façade with towers at each
end, and handsome staircases with iron balustrades
from the first story into the garden. We got into
the carriage at nine o'clock, and, travelling all night
through a level country, arrived, at two o'clock, on
Sunday, 2nd, at Munich. We dined at the Golden
Cross, and went out in the evening. This is a beau-
tiful town, and much enriched by the present King
with works of art; but it is quiet and dull. We walked
through the park or public promenade, which is well
laid out as English scenery; the river Isar traverses
it in various directions, forming streams and lakes
with its singularly blue waters. The inns are full of
foreigners, as the Empress of Russia left Munich this
morning. The imperial couple appear to be travelling
at present in every direction through Germany,
which would seem to corroborate the suspicion that
something was brewing in politics for the coming
winter. It is singular that a sovereign, on whose sole
will and energy the government of so vast an empire
entirely depends, can afford time to be absent from
his capital for such a long period.
Monday, 3rd.-We saw the Cathedral, or Frauen
Kirche, which is worthy of notice. There is a beau-
tiful carved pulpit in white and gold, and a monu-
ment in bronze to the Emperor Louis of Bavaria,
which surpasses all description; it is a tomb of that
metal, all the figures on which are as large as life,
and exquisitely chiselled; around it are six other
1838.]
297
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
figures of the same dimensions, those at the four
corners being dressed in the gorgeous armour of that
time. From thence to the Nicholas Church, which
has a splendid altar-piece, and a pulpit finely carved
in oak; there is also a fine monument in marble to
the memory of Eugene Beauharnais.
We drove
At
round the Park, which is of considerable extent.
three o'clock we visited the Royal Palace: although
spacious, and the rooms well proportioned, the
effect of the painting in arabesque by modern hands,
is trivial and gaudy, this Etruscan style being ill
suited to give an idea of dignity. The furniture of
these rooms is scanty, with gilt chairs and sofas, in
the style of the Empire in France. In front of the
palace is a bronze statue of the late King in a sitting
posture, very well executed; it was erected by the
citizens of Munich to his memory.
The Bavarian army amounts to 25,000 in peace,
and 60,000 in war time; but the King's guards
alone have a fine military appearance.
After dinner, during our walk, we saw the Queen
set off in her coach and six from the palace to her
country seat at Nymphenburg; at ten at night we
set out for Innsbruck.
Tuesday, 4th.—We travelled all night, and this
morning arrived at Benedictbenerm, from which
point commences all the superb beauty of the Tyro-
lean scenery. Our drive during the whole day after
the great ascent of about two miles in length, which
required four additional horses, was amongst ridges
of mountains partly covered with forest trees, partly
abounding in fine lakes and rivers, whose blue waters
298
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
improve and diversify the scene. The eye is lost
in the grandeur and immensity of these rocky
mountains, while the valleys beneath are studded
with cottages, cattle, and all the tranquil comforts of
rural life. The cascades, which nature forms on the
heights, burst into rapid waterfalls, which almost
render the spectator dizzy, while the noise and the
foam increase his awe and admiration. The distance
from Munich hither is twenty German miles, com-
prising every feature of grand and sublime scenery
which the mind can imagine. The roads, it should
be observed, are excellent. We arrived at Innsbruck
at nine at night: the inn (Golden Eagle) is bad, and
very dear.
Wednesday, 5th. We have lately fallen in occa-
sionally with some parties of English tourists, who
are travelling about with Galignani's guide in their
hands, climbing every mountain, staring at all they
can see, filling le livre des étrangers at every inn
with their impertinent comments on the fare and the
servants, and exposing themselves to public ridicule
by writing facetious remarks on each other. They
never see the natives or know anything of the society
and manners of the Continent, except what they can
observe in the kitchens of the inns.
We are
Innsbruck is a fine old town, which you enter by a
bridge over the Inn, from whence its name.
now again in the Austrian territory, but the high
beaver hats of the women, and their stockings with-
out feet, give them a different air from the Austrian
peasants. They have fine intelligent countenances,
and seem, from the intermediate position, to combine
1838.]
299
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
in their characters the German sentimental mysticity
with the Italian vivacity.
We strolled out first to the Hof Kirche, where is
to be seen the tomb of the Emperor Maximilian in
bronze, round which are twenty-eight compartments
of marble bas-reliefs, detailing the principal events of
his life, carved by a Fleming named Collina, which
are of the highest beauty. Around the principal
aisle are stationed twenty-eight figures in bronze of
the House of Hapsburg, large as life, and cast 300
years ago, which are of inimitable workmanship; the
drapery of the women, and the embossed armour of
the men, are represented with a truth and accuracy
which defy competition.
These treasures of art had nearly been lost to the
town of Innsbruck, as during the French Revolution
Marshal Ney had packed them up, as well as a silver
altar-piece in the chapel, to be sent to Paris; but
fortunately the spoilers were forced to decamp.
Here is also a fine marble tomb erected to the
memory of the patriot Andrew Hofer, and another
by Collina, to that of Prince Ferdinand, uncle to
Charles V.
In the Jacobi Kirche is a magnificent pulpit in
gold and silver, which has a dazzling appearance. In
all these churches it is disgusting to view the votive
offerings of arms, legs, hearts, ears, &c. in wax,
which are carefully preserved to commemorate the
cures of different disorders. The palace is a fine
ancient building in good preservation. There are
also some fine hotels, but the town seems quite
inanimate.
300
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
A public walk is open for general recreation, but
the range of mountains which enclose Innsbruck in
the bosom of a valley form the most imposing part
of the scenery.
Through the whole of Bavaria and this part of the
Austrian states, there are crucifixes and images in
every direction; the houses, too, in these old towns are
painted on the outside with fresques, representing
scenes from the life of our Saviour; and the churches
which are distant from the villages are always
approached by a long line of little chapels, or images
of saints, where a few wandering pilgrims are occa-
sionally seen at their orisons in the road; indeed,
large wooden crucifixes are in some places erected
in the public drinking-rooms of the inns. We are
now in the Tyrol, surrounded by mountains of a
prodigious height, which enclose this singular town,
once so important and famous in the time of Charles
V.
Monday, 6th. We left Innsbruck at five in the
morning, before the sun was up, and pursued our
way amongst a ridge of mountains varying in scenery
at every turn. The river Isar, which we knew at
Munich, follows us hither in a strong but shallow
stream of blue, which, dashing against the rocky
bottom and shore, seems to be a boiling torrent roar-
ing like the sea. Occasional remains of the old
feudal fortresses of former times are seen perched on
eminences which would defy the approach of man;
but just before we arrived at Brixen, broke upon our
view the immense citadel lately constructed by the
1838.]
301
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Austrians to command this important pass from their
Italian dominions.
It is a double erection on each side of the road,
situated on tremendous heights, and not only strong
in bomb-proof masonry work, but the rock itself has
been incorporated with the breast work on the glacis,
and forms an impenetrable front to the attack of an
enemy.
This position seems intended not only to check any
future French invasion, but also to keep their Italian
provinces in order. This fortress was lately inspected
by the Emperor on his way to Milan; but all
accounts agree in relating his extreme imbecility of
mind, which could take no interest in such a sight.
His daily occupation at Vienna is said to consist in
looking out of the window of his palace and counting
the hackney coaches which pass during the day,
having acquainted himself with the names of the
various proprietors.
From Brixen we went on to Botzen, where the
view is on the same scale of grandeur above, and
bounded by the river below, over which the occasional
bridges have this peculiarity, that they are roofed in
like houses or barns. The women in the Tyrol are
plain, disfigured by their beaver hats, and hardly to
be distinguished from the men in their appearance.
Bullocks are the principal beasts of burden in agri-
culture, as best adapted to the mountain traffic. Both
these and the horses are of a fine and serviceable
breed. The living here, as well as throughout Ger-
many, is bad, the meat tough, the poultry mere
skeletons, the whole baked or stewed in grease. All
-
302
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
the poultry is sold at the markets alive to the con-
sumer, which creates a disgusting reflection. From
Botzen the road winds through the valley without
any deep ascents. The prospect is less grand, but
the land more smiling and cultivated, covered with
vineyards and plantations of maize. At eleven at
night we arrived at Trent.
Friday, 7th.-This is thirty German miles from
Innsbruck. Here is a good inn, called the Rose. It
is an old neglected town, which now contains little
worth remark. We saw the Maria Maggiore church,
formerly the seat of the Council of Trent, of which
it contains rather an interesting picture, with the As-
sembly as it met in the sixteenth century. There is
also a fine organ-loft, with a sculptured marble gal-
lery well executed. The cathedral has very little to
boast, and a wooden bridge over the Adige has no
other recommendation than its beautiful prospect.
The population here becomes Italian; that language
is generally spoken and used in all the public docu-
ments. Here, too, the race begins to change; the
clumsy German figures give place to the light step
and dark eye and brown skin of the Italian race.
The ancient name of Trent was Tridentum: it is
still inhabited by a few old noble families, but the
Imperial family never visit it.
Saturday, 8th. We renewed our journey through
scenes of equal grandeur with the preceding day.
The road still runs through a valley hedged by gigan-
tic mountains, whose bases are covered with stones
of enormous size which have crumbled away from
their sides, and seem to threaten the traveller with
1838.]
303
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
destruction; rivers and torrents flow beneath; small
towns, villages, and châlets are studded about in
every direction. This scene is proverbial in Europe,
but must be seen to be appreciated. At eight o'clock
in the evening we arrived at the town of Bassano,
which was illuminated with paper lanthorns, not for
our arrival, but for the fête of the Madonna.
Here we dined and resumed our way; but from
this point the face of the country changes. We had
passed the Tyrol, and nature, as if weary of her late
gigantic efforts, seemed to relapse into a more ordi-
nary exhibition of her local dispensations. We drove
through a level plain, bounded with hedges like an
English road, occasionally enlivened by country
houses adorned with gardens and statues, or the
plainer residence of the farmer. It rained hard, but
we made our way through the night with much ex-
pedition, and arrived early in the morning at Mestre,
after another journey of 24 miles (120 English.)
Sunday, 9th. We stopped to dress and unload
the baggage from the carriage, which is to be left
here during our stay at Venice. We then proceeded
in a large gondola or post-boat for about six leagues
through the Lagunes to Venice. Here, then, we have
performed 1,200 English miles since we left Paris,
without the slightest accident or mishap. On look-
ing over the list of travellers we noticed more of
those flat and insignificant remarks with which the
English alone think it necessary to perpetuate their
memory in the inns which they inhabit. Among the
first we read was the following:
"Q. D, M. P., 19th Oct. 1833. La cuisine
304
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
est vilaine à l'hôtel du Lion Blanc." As we did not
understand what was meant by an ugly kitchen,
Yarmouth said M. P. must certainly stand for mau-
vais parleur.
At twelve o'clock the weather cleared up, and we
got into the bark just as a regiment of Austrian cuiras-
siers passed through the town on their way to Milan.
We had already accomplished half our voyage, when
we were struck by the new military works erected
by that government to keep her Venetian subjects
in awe.
The banks of the Lagune are now enclosed
with masonry work, cannon planted at every interval,
and an immense barrack erected to menace the city
in case of any disturbance.
We worked our way through the different canals,
and landed at the hotel called Albergo Reale, where
we found already settled there the Princess Radzivil
and her daughter, Count Esterhazy, and Madame
Delphine Potocka. This hotel is beautifully situated
on the Great Quay, near the Place St. Mark.
Here, then, is Venezia la Bella, the sight of which
has long been the favourite object of my wishes ;
and as I look now on the lovely prospect before me,
I feel that no description can equal the reality.
Still rich in the works of art, and built as it were
by miracle, Venice, notwithstanding her misfortunes,
presents all the traces of her former dignity and
grandeur.
Her palaces, her churches, her galleries of pic-
tures, and her noble monuments render her still
the wonder of the traveller, who can only lament
her fallen state. We all read with indifference the
1838.]
305
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
occupation by Austria of her Italian provinces; but
it is only when we see with our own eyes the
humbling degradation of this once proud Queen of
the Seas, now garrisoned by German troops and
menaced with cannon from her own shores, her re-
venues engrossed by the foreigner, and her citizens
kept in bondage, that we cannot restrain a strong
feeling of sympathy for her fate, though the pusil-
lanimity and weakness of the Italian character is
still an object of disgust.
We walked out to see the cathedral Church of
St. Mark, in which the evening service had just
begun; the loud peal of the organ gave an additional
solemnity to our view of this majestic structure,
built of the finest marble, and the interior covered
with mosaic designs of the most splendid workman-
ship. The rain falling heavily in the evening, limited
our walks to the Place St. Marc, where the cafés
were thinly attended. Philippe Egalité must have
had these galleries in his eye, when he destroyed
the noble garden of the Cardinal Richelieu, and
erected those which disgraced his own royal resi-
dence.
Monday, 10th.-What a splendid scene greets my
sight as I rise from my bed! how busy and yet how
still are all the living objects! here is the busy hum
of men alone, no din of carriages, no trampling of
horses, no rumbling of carts and waggons. The
light gondola glides through the wave guided by a
single oar, the ships at anchor lay unmoved by a
ripple on the water, while heavy barges loaded with
troops are conveying in every direction the different
VOL. III.
X
306
SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
sentries to their various posts. All is calm and
solemn, but the quays are animated by foot-passen -
gers, minstrels, sailors, and peasants, who seem glad
to stretch their legs on the little space of ground not
invaded by lagunes and canals.
Yarmouth and I went in a gondola to the Church
of Sta. Maria Maggiore. We walked in the evening
on the Place St. Marc with Princess Radzivil and
Madame Potocka, where we met the Duchesse
d'Albufuera and M. and Madame de la Redorte
from Paris. Our hotel is very good, and the pro-
prietor, Danielli, extremely attentive.
The famed gondola, which so many poets have
sung, is perhaps the most delightful conveyance that
ever was invented. The quiet progressive move-
ment, the wonderful address with which the boatmen
conduct their charge through the narrow canals,
amidst crowds of barges, boats, &c., which are con-
stantly obstructing your route, the nicety with which
they measure distances in the most intricate situa-
tions, turning the sharp corners, and paddling through
apertures which you think impracticable, without
ever touching the objects that seem to oppose your
passage, gives you the most agreeable sensations of
pleasure and security. The price of a gondola with
two men is only five francs a day; they are not, in-
deed, now dressed in the picturesque garb of former
days, but their ordinary attire is well compensated
by their utility, which, in the present humbled days
of Venetian fortunes, is more important. These
men act as servants in your house, perform every
act of household duty, and are famed for their
honesty, fidelity, and diligence.
1838.]
307
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Tuesday, 11th. A pelting storm with thunder
and lightning during the night, which is a rare occur-
rence here; I rose to witness it. The lambent flame
dancing through the masts of the shipping reflected
in the blue lake, and at moments lighting up to view
the marble palaces and monuments around me, was
a fine and awful sight, which vanished again in a
moment, and left the world in darkness.
I strolled out before breakfast into the Church of
St. Zacharie, which is richly adorned with marbles.
We then visited together the Ducal Palace, which
is so curious that it must be taken in detail at various
times.
From hence we proceeded in gondola to the
Church of St. Jean and Paul, one of the most sump-
tuous in Venice. And afterwards to the Church of
the Jesuits, a building so curious and so different
from any other that I shall always recollect it with
delight. It astonishes the mind to reflect on the
immense sums and labour which such an erection
must have cost, and is a striking instance of the
enormous wealth the Order of the Jesuits had at one
time appropriated to itself.
The more I proceed—and I have hardly begun the
series of wonders contained in this city—the more I
feel astonished at the enormous wealth in which it
still abounds. In the meantime the fine hotels of
the once proud Venetians are gradually falling to
decay, and the impoverished families were ready to
sell the costly materials to the best bidder, when an
imperial mandate came out forbidding the destruc-
tion of these ancient monuments of past glory, which
X 2
308
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
put a stop at once to the sales, as the foreigners had
no other object in view than to transport them away
to their own homes; but as the families will not or
cannot repair them, their ruin now seems inevitable.
We went to the opera, which is very mediocre.
Wednesday, 12th. I went this morning with
Madame Potocka to the top of the tower, from
whence the view commands the whole city and sur-
rounding waters: it is surprising to see the extent
of Venice, but the houses are so high, and the canals
so narrow in the interior, that even from that height
it looks like an inland city.
From thence we walked into the great Church of
St. Mark, to admire the wonderful picture of that
saint in mosaic over the principal entrance; here
every visit discovers some new beauty.
We went to the Church of the Scalze (Carmes
déchaussés), also ornamented with fine marbles sculp-
tured in scrolls and altar-pieces, where are few
pictures, but many statues, among which is that of
St. Therese, well executed. Our next visit was to
that of Maria di Rosario, celebrated for a rich taber-
nacle, in columns of lapis lazuli, with an altar-
piece of the Crucifixion by Tintoretto.
We went to a magazine of curiosities, kept by
Sanquirico, in a fine old hotel: he has a very large
collection of antiquities, particularly some splendid
missals with Nesles, one alone cost 150l.; from the
highest to the lowest articles, all were exorbitantly
dear. Madame Delphine and myself each bought an
old Genoese fan for 25 fr., which were the only
reasonable purchases to be made.
1838.]
309
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
We passed the evening in our hotel with Princess
Radzivil.
Prince Jablonowsky, who is settled here, told me
that the living at Venice was wonderfully cheap ;—he
has an hotel, tolerably furnished, with a suite of
fifteen rooms, for 607. per annum. The character of
the people, he says, is mild and inoffensive; no riots.
or quarrels in the streets, and no murders as in other
parts of Italy.
There is something in the air of Venice which dis-
poses the mind to meditation. The tranquil beauty
of the scene; the solitude; the absence of those
idlers in pursuit of pleasure who swarm in every
large city, the quiet modest demeanour of the
women, who occasionally cross your path in the
narrow and ill-frequented lanes; and, above all, the
frequent visits which a traveller must inevitably
make to those splendid churches, and which, indeed,
form his principal occupation, -all tend to soften
the mind, and abstract it from worldly feelings.
The splendour with which Religion is here sur-
rounded, the noble and costly pictures in which her
history is commemorated, create a combination of
feelings, in which the love of the Arts is blended
with respect for the Divinity, and though, perhaps,
commencing by an appeal to the senses, cannot fail
to produce a beneficial effect on the worldly mind,
and gradually lead it to the contemplation of better
things. We are all by nature worldly; some, more
or less hardened by habit in worldly pursuits, per-
haps, become inaccessible to the ordinary modes of
conversion: if, then, such minds can be touched by
x 3
310
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
I
none
impressions more suited to their state of feeling; if
instead of being led by admonition, they can be
awed or persuaded into another and better path,
why, if the result be the same, may not the one
sort of influence be as admissible as another?
am no advocate for the Catholic religion,
more attached to the simplicity of our creed, but
the entrance into the Church of St. Marc, and the
contemplation of that gorgeous pile, has constantly
filled me with sensations of veneration, which the
whitewashed walls of a parish church in England
could never produce. I have seen its effect on those
whose hearts never softened with such ideas before,
and, whether lasting or not, they still must leave a
trace behind, which may turn to good.
Another circumstance, also, has never failed to
strike me with peculiar force, as coming immediately
home to my own feelings on the subject. These
churches, splendid as they are, remain open at all
hours; here, when a real impulse guides the penitent
sinner or the afflicted mourner, he may come and
seek that consolation which the world cannot give;
here he may sit alone and commune with himself, or
prostrate himself before that Being who has said,
"Come unto me, all ye that are heavy laden, and
I will give you rest." Contrast this with the stated
hours, the well-dressed crowds, the vacant faces, and
the long formal routine of an English church, where
some few, perhaps, can keep up their attention, and
are really intent on the duties of the day, but where
many are only fulfilling a form before the world, in
which their heart is little interested.
1838.]
311
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Thursday, 13th. This morning, after my usual
visit to St. Mark's, where every day discovers some
fresh beauty or object worthy of reflection, I again
visited with Yarmouth the Ducal Palace, and its
splendid apartments, stored with their rich ceilings,
and fine pictures by the best Italian masters.
The gondola next carried us to the Church of the
Redeemer, which is of a more unassuming order.
From thence we went to the Palais Barberini, now
falling entirely to ruin, while the noble proprietor
lives on the second story.
We saw there on sale thirty-one marble busts, of
the Grecian and Roman school, which were valued
at 3007., and would probably be sold for half that
sum.
After dinner I went to visit Madame de Thurm,
to whom I had brought a small parcel and letter from
Lady William Russell. She is the wife of Count
de Thurm, Austrian Delegado here, who is at present
at Milan. It appears to be a very agreeable family.
Friday, 14th.--I went to the Académie des Beaux
Arts, which is stored with pictures of the Venetian
school.
Princess Radzivil had procured a band of barcarole
singers to accompany us this evening on the water,
but the weather was so unfavourable that we could
not stir out of the house.
Saturday, 15th.-Yarmouth and I went to see the
Church of St. Sebastian, which is filled with paint-
ings by Paul Veronese, of which the history is well
known.
x 4
312
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
We went to a gallery of antiquities, kept by a
Marquis de Sivry, a Frenchman, where there are
some fine furniture, bronzes, pictures, and marbles
on sale, but held at very high prices.
Sunday, 16th.-I went with Madame Delphine to
High Mass at St. Mark's. Breakfasted with her and
Madame Radzivil at the Café Florian, on the Piazza,
and went again with them to the Academy, where
we sat for some time admiring the Presentation of
the Virgin, when a child, at the Temple, which is
one of the most interesting works of Titian. The
figures of the high priest, the beggar woman, and
the two females in the foreground are inimitable.
Among the views of Venice is one of a miracle,
which is supposed to have occurred during a sacred
procession near the Grand Canal. The priest bearing
the cross accidentally fell into the canal. He is seen
quietly walking through the water, while various
priests and friars are swimming after him to offer an
assistance, which the holy emblem renders unneces-
sary.
All our party at the Albergo dined together. In
the evening we were joined by Count and Countess
Pahlen; and the Princess, as the night was fine,
had her party on the water, accompanied by the
gondoliers in a bark, singing their favourite barcarole
airs. Thus we rowed about the canals till twelve
o'clock, leaving behind us in our course the echo of
sweet sounds, which interrupted the stillness of the
night, rousing many of the descendants of the
Foscari and Pisani from their early sleep.
1838.]
313
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Monday, 17th.-The first real fine day we have
seen at Venice. Our little party of five dined again
together, and went at five o'clock to the Lido, to
see the farce of a Venetian guinguette, which was
even less amusing than the Chaumière at the Mont
Parnasse in Paris. We were joined there by the
Pahlens; and on our return Princess Radzivil and
her daughter, the Princess Micheline, took leave of
us, and went on board the steamboat for Trieste,
on their way to Vienna and Warsaw, where they
are going to winter, and which their late journey to
these civilised regions will only render more unsatis-
factory.
Tuesday, 18th.-I went with Madame Potocka
to St. Mark's this morning, where she attended Mass.
On our return, the gondola was ready, and she
embarked for Mestre, on her way to Naples. We
resumed our researches by going to the Church of
St. Roch, and from thence to the Confrererie of
St. Roch, a building remarkable for its magnificence.
We next saw the Church of Sta. Maria dei Frati,
which contains more fine monuments than any church
in Venice, and where lie the ancestors of some of
the noblest and most distinguished Venetian fami-
lies. They correspond with the grandeur of the age,
and prove to posterity that if the members of this
wonderful Republic were surrounded with magni-
ficence when living, they were not less lavish in pro-
viding costly receptacles for their dead.
We crossed the water to the island of St. Lazare,
and passing the hospital for mad patients, we arrived
314
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
at the convent of the Armenians, where we were
received with great civility by one of the order.
They have a rich library, a cabinet of natural history
and electricity, with a printing office, from which
they issue very fine editions of works in the oriental
languages. It is expected that you should purchase
a specimen of their art, in a book containing twenty-
four living languages.
In the evening I went to Madame de Thurm's,
where I found the Count just arrived from the fêtes
at Milan, who mentioned to me the sudden melan-
choly death of Lady Elizabeth Harcourt.
Wednesday, 19th.-Awoke by the drum of Aus-
trian troops in a barge going their rounds on the
lakes. The steamboat, just arrived from Trieste,
lies before my windows, surrounded by the busy
gondolas, anxious to convey the eager passengers on
shore, while the police-boat arrives to check their
ardour, and detain them for a tedious scrutiny of
passports. The man-of-war is at anchor by her
side, with her yards squared, and her guns pointed
at haughty Venice, like a fortress on the placid lake,
ready at the slightest mark of insubordination to
pour havoc on all these costly monuments, which
present their fair faces to the foe. The merchant
ships are moored to the quay, and the busy crews
are occupied in unloading their various cargoes;
the gondolas are skimming like black swans over
the wave, with their Roman iron prows in every
direction; the boats from the islands, with piled-up
baskets of varied fruits, are slowly making their way
towards the inland canals,—in short, the whole, en-
1838.]
315
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
livened by a bright sun and an Italian sky, forms
a glorious prospect at this moment which can never
be forgotten.
an
We rowed from thence to the bridge of the
Rialto, where we examined the range of shops and
busy market on its arch. In the evening we sat
on the Place St. Marc with Count and Countess
Pahlen, as is the general custom here. The Café
Florian is the most frequented, and furnishes gelate,
granite, and sorbetti. Minstrels are playing or sing-
ing in every direction, and very importunate for
charity. There is a well-known character here,
old man, who was once primo flauto of the Venice
theatre; he blows a little air at your elbow for two
minutes, and then asks alms for his mother, who must
be a centenarian, as her son cannot be less than eighty
years old.
The conversation turned upon Russia
and the P family. Madame P, the mother
of the present race, was a Greek slave of great and
singular beauty; she was bought by Count de W.,
who fell deeply in love with her, and then married
her. By him she had Madame K
and our
Cossack general and acquaintance at Carlsbad, with
other children: he must be now about sixty-five.
When she became a widow, and still beautiful, the
present Duke of H-n, then on his travels, was
anxious to marry her, but she was engaged to Count
P- one of the richest seigneurs in Poland. By
him she has also several children, Stanislas Boles-
las, Micislas, Madame B-a, &c.; and at his
death he left them all immense fortunes: the sons
had six or seven hundred thousand roubles a year;
316
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
the two latter sons married the Princess Solikoff and
Madlle. Komar; even Micislas, who adds prodi-
gality to his other vices, has now, after all his ex-
cesses, a fortune remaining of 400,000 francs a year.
His wife as well as both his sisters had large for-
tunes.
The Pahlens are going to Russia. She departs
with the usual reluctance of those who have tra-
velled and seen better things in Europe, still more
embittered by the idea of losing the fêtes which are
preparing for the Emperor. He is brother to the
Russian ambassador at Paris, and was formerly
governor of the Illyrian provinces.
Thursday, 20th. We went to the Manfrini
Palace, which gave me the first idea of a splendid
Venetian residence; it has, what is singular at
Venice, a handsome garden at the back. We next
proceeded to the Trevison Palace, which is newly
fitted up in the modern style.
Friday, 21st. We went to the Grimani Palace,
where, for the first time, we were refused admit-
tance. From thence we inspected the churches of
St. Francois de la Vigna, San Giorgio Maggiore,
Bragora, and St. Chrysostome, and afterwards con-
cluded our morning's course with the Schiavoni
Cabinet. M. Schiavoni, the owner, is a painter him-
self, and, after showing us his collection, introduced
us into his own atélier, where he had just finished
two pictures of Flora and Pomona, which we much
admired. He excels in women, and is called le
peintre des graces à Venise.
Saturday, 22nd. -We made a day of rest, and
1838.1
317
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
did not enter a gondola. We walked over the
quays to the public gardens, founded by Napoleon,
which border the sea. In the evening we sat with
the Pahlens on the Piazza till near twelve o'clock.
On the left side of the Church St. Mark is a little
votive chapel on high, constantly lighted with two
glimmering lamps, as an expiation ordered by the
state for a hasty judgment pronounced in former
times, by which an innocent man was condemned to
death. He was a baker, who, walking near this
spot, picked up the sheath of a poniard, and put it
in his pocket. The watch soon discovered in the
neighbourhood the body of a murdered man, with a
dagger sticking in his breast. On searching for the
assassin, they lighted on this unfortunate man with
the sheath in his possession, which evidently fitted
the weapon found on the deceased; and upon this
slight evidence, notwithstanding all his assertions of
innocence, he was instantly tried, condemned, and
executed. The real murderer was afterwards de-
tected, and an expiatory chapel instituted here as a
token of retribution to the poor man's soul.
Sunday, 23rd.-Weather very sultry. Made my
daily visit to the Church of St. Mark, where some
new object worthy of remark is always to be found.
I met on the Piazza Admiral Paullucci, the com-
mander of the Austrian fleet, who took Yarmouth
and myself on board his gondola to see the details
of the frigate, which is in a high state of order and
discipline. He was early in life in the English ser-
vice, then served under Napoleon, whom he still
adores, and is now chief of the Austrian navy, and,
318
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
as he says himself, "Le plus grand amiral de la
plus petite flotte en Europe." Alexander wished to
enlist him in his service in 1814, which he declined,
though his brother was formerly Governor of Riga,
as I remember in 1829, and is now Governor-General
of Genoa for the King of Sardinia. He then took
us over his house, which is spacious and well fur-
nished. Some idea may be formed of the cheapness
of houses here, when this cost him only 24,000 fr.,
but the repairs and furniture 84,000 fr.
Monday, 24th. I dined at Count de Thurm's,
where there was a small party, all Austrians. A
singular lady arrived in the evening, -a Miss Tal-
bot, who has lived many years at Vienna. She is
of the Irish Malahide family, of a very independent
character. Without any introduction she approached
me and coolly asked me my name, and shortly after
requested me to convey her home in my gondola,
which I accordingly did, in defiance of all scandalous
comments.
Tuesday, 25th. We went to the Palais Pesaro,
which is one of the finest buildings in Venice, mag-
nificently sculptured without in the old Italian style,
and containing numerous suites of noble rooms
within. This family, like many others, is extinct,
and the hotel is now occupied by a branch of the
Armenian College at the Isle St. Lazare. We were
received with great civility by the monks, who showed
us the pupils at their studies. These are Armenian
youth, brought up here in the path of science, to
forward the march of civilisation in their own country,
on their return home. The finest palace on the
1838.]
319
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Grand Canal as a specimen of the old Saracenic ar-
chitecture is incontestably the Palais Foscari; but
this is uninhabited, daily falling to ruins; and as no
friendly hand attempts to prop it up, will soon fall to
rise no more. This once noble family is now only
represented by two old maids, who have a trifling
pittance of two zwanzegers per day to support their
wretched existence. They are proud of their birth,
even in this state of poverty, and are pleased when
curiosity draws any strangers to visit them as a re-
cord of the past.
The Venetian waiter's idea of a bonissima famiglia
here is, that they travel with three carriages and
eight servants.
The weather now is sultry, and our evenings are
passed in the Place St. Marc before the Café Florian,
but the buzz of human beings still echoes on the quays
before my windows long after I have retired to rest;
and I believe there are many of the gondoliers and
lazzaroni who lie in the streets, and never go to bed
at all.
Wednesday, 26th, was a religious fête in Venice.
The Austrian authorities arrived in a gilded barge in
state at the Church of St. Mark, to hear divine ser-
vice. There was a public exhibition of relics in one
of the chapels, and a cupboard full of precious gems,
cups of agate, and curious works of Benvenuto Cel-
lini. On each side were displayed two gold candela-
bra, the rich sword of state formerly carried before
the Doges, and the crozier of the Archbishop, both
in gold set with precious stones. The three standards
were hoisted on the Piazza with the Austrian colours.
320
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
These costly red poles, with splendid bronzes at the
base, were, in the proud days of Venice, erected to
commemorate the three great conquests of the Re-
public,— Candia, Morea, and Cyprus. Lately, the
idea was started by the Government of painting
these poles in the Austrian colours, black and yellow;
but no sooner was it known, than a general ferment
took place in the city, and had it not been abandoned,
an insurrection would have infallibly taken place.
These humbled Venetians, who truckled to slavery
without an effort to resist the conqueror, would have
shed their blood to maintain the colour of a stick.
Such is the force of prejudice!
Opposite to the entrance of the Ducal Palace is a
small building of rare marble and beautiful architec-
ture, which was formerly used as the guard-house.
In front are two small bronze gates of the most ex-
quisite workmanship, executed by Sansovino, which
would be a fit ornament for any drawing-room.
Thursday, 27th.We were surprised this morning
by the arrival of the Duc de Richelieu, who came
home and dined with us. He announces many other
friends and acquaintances coming to the fêtes for the
coronation of the Emperor, some of whom I have
not seen for five years.
Friday, 28th.-The mosaics in front of the Ba-
silique are now cleaned for the fêtes, and the colours
of these pictures are come out so bright and vivid
that they surpass any oil-painting. We paid another
visit to the Academy, to gaze once more on the works
of Titian. We dined with Richelieu at his hotel,
the "Lion Blanc," and went to the Piazza, where
1838.]
321
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
the regimental band of the Hungarian grenadiers
played pieces of music for two hours, and attracted
a great crowd. This band is composed of fifty per-
formers; and it must be allowed that all military
music, when compared to that of the Austrians, sinks
very low in the scale. The Countess Pahlen is very
sad at the idea of leaving Venice, particularly just at
this moment. She is returned from a long tour to
Naples and Rome, where she had passed many happy
days. She described with much naïveté her feelings
at quitting scenes of which she had just seen enough
to appreciate their beauty and regret their loss. The
Russian women, generally speaking, have much
frankness and sensibility in their character. A re-
fined education forms their minds to the enjoyment
of those scenes both local and social, in which Italy
abounds. This feeling is frozen up in their own
barren country as soon as it is formed; but when
they are allowed to visit foreign lands, it bursts
forth at once with redoubled warmth, and only renders
them more wretched when fate or the Emperor or-
dains their return to Russia.
Saturday, 29th.-I went in the evening to the
Countess de Thurm, where I met a large assembly,
but few Venetians. I found here Count Metrowsky
and Baron Hugel.
Sunday, 30th. — A stranger is surprised to see in
a populous city the numberless flocks of pigeons
which are constantly flying about the Piazza St.
Marc and the neighbourhood. They are regularly
fed by the inhabitants at a stated hour, though the
property of no one, and are become so tame that they
VOL. III.
Y
322
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
may almost be taken by the hand. They carelessly
brush close to your head in their flight, and when
in search of food on the ground, will hardly take the
trouble of moving from under your feet, so uncon-
cerned are they at your approach. They seem to be
sacred birds, whom no one thinks of molesting. The
origin of this peculiarity is as follows:-
In former times, on the election of a doge, public
distributions of provisions were made to the people,
both of live and dead stock: among the former,
flocks of pigeons, whose wings were confined by
paper and string, to prevent them from flying away,
were (cruelly, it must be owned) precipitated from
the dome of St. Mark as a scramble to the populace.
Some of these poor victims got rid of their shackles,
and took refuge in the Gothic fretwork of the palace
or the steeples of the church, where they remained
safe from the grasp of the populace, and were allowed
to live unmolested. They bred and became at last
so numerous, that the Government, regarding their
preservation in the light of a miracle, allowed a sum
for their maintenance; but when the French got
possession of Venice, this act of charity was forgotten
or repealed. The poor birds then drooped from
hunger and want; but the inhabitants, accustomed
to the sight of their favourites, pitied their lot, and
voluntarily took upon themselves their maintenance.
They are now regularly fed on the Piazza, as objects
of public charity, at nine and two o'clock in the day.
There they assemble in such numbers that they really
darken the air with their flapping wings.
Sunday, 30th.-This evening the Duke and
1838.]
323
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Duchess of Beaufort, with their daughter Lady
Augusta, arrived at the Leone Bianco, and I received
a letter from Alvanley, who is unluckily detained by
illness at Milan.
Monday, October 1st.-I called on the Beauforts,
and went with them to view the Ducal Palace, where
we admired those massive gilded ceilings and the
other treasures of art, which can never be seen
enough. I met on the Piazza General Lagrange
and his nephew, arrived from Paris. Here I took
leave of Count and Countess Pahlen, who embarked
this night with a heavy heart on board the steam-
boat for Trieste.
Tuesday, 2nd. —The preparations are busily going
on for the reception of the Emperor, who has left
Milan after his coronation, and is making a triumphal
visit to the other Italian cities in his dominions.
I dined with the Duke and Duchess of Beaufort,
and met Richelieu and Lord Alexander Russell.
We all went to the San Benedetto Theatre in the
evening.
Wednesday, 3rd. — Though the palace is not open
to the public, Richelieu and I obtained entrance this
morning. After dinner we went to the San Bene-
detto to hear the concert of M. Alma's band, which
is inferior to Strauss or Labitzky.
The English papers announce the death of Lord
Carington, aged eighty-six.
Thursday, 4th.-The arrivals increase: Sir Frede-
rick Lamb*, our Ambassador at Vienna, the Damers,
and a host of English, with Prince Metternich and
* Afterwards Lord Beauvale, and Lord Melbourne.
Y 2
324
[Ост.
JOURNAL OF
the Austrian Court. I received a letter from Al-
vanley, still at Milan, in which he says,
"Lord
Hertford is ill." We mean to go there from hence.
Friday, 5th.-A beautiful day. The scene before
my windows this morning presents the ships of war
pavoisés de toutes les couleurs, splendid galleys orna-
mented with the gayest silks and streamers, and
manned with mariners in the old Venetian costumes;
gondolas covered with silks and satins of the most
varied colours, gliding up and down the lagunes; while
the quays are crowded with troops and passengers.
I went to the Beauforts' apartment on the Grand
Canal, to view the splendid entry of the Emperor.
All the windows and balconies of the surrounding
houses are hung with damask and tapestry, human
heads are piled above each other in endless variety,
and the stream offers a living mass of spectators in
every species of bark, to view the gay procession.
At two o'clock it appeared under the Rialto, coming
from Fusina. Words cannot paint the gay and splen-
did scene: gondolas covered with silk drapery, and
the boatmen in fancy dresses, opened the line of
march; painted barges with music, gilded galleys,
boats in which temples were erected with fluted
columns and glittering cornices, flags and feathers,
formed the escort; in these were the great officers of
State, the Ambassadors, and the Imperial family of
Archdukes, then came the Emperor and Empress in a
floating temple, both of whom stood up in front bowing
graciously to the huzzas of the crowded spectators.
Their boatmen were dressed in the old Venetian
costume; two blacks were stationed at the stern in
1838.]
325
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Moorish dresses, while bands of military music played
that beautiful national air, Viva il Imperatore e Re.
This stream of gold and silver, and silk brocade
floated majestically down the waters of the canale
grande till it reached the lagune, where a new scene
awaited the Royal visitors. On one side, the ships
of war, with their yards manned, and flags of every
hue, fired repeated salutes, while on the other, a
triple line of troops, marshalled along the quay,
shook the air with their cheers and a triple round
of cartridges to honour the sovereign. When this
stunning salute was over, and the cloud of smoke
had dispersed, the Imperial flotilla advanced to the
shore, and the floating temple was moored to a
temporary landing-place covered with scarlet cloth,
upon which the Royal family gained the Piazza, and
proceeded under a baldaquin to the great church,
where service was performed. It was indeed a scene
not to be forgotten. Not so much a gorgeous spec-
tacle as a fairy vision: unlike the heavy tramping
procession upon earth, with its rumbling cars, and
their dust, its cloth of gold and sweaty brows, it
glided over the blue waters of the lagune as a celes-
tial pageant; its form was so fanciful, its tints were
so soft, and its whole texture so airy, that it might
have passed for a revel of Queen Mab, or the off-
spring of Aladdin's wonderful lamp. I went to dine
with Sir Frederick Lamb-a London party-the
Duke of Beaufort and his son, and Lady Augusta,
Col. and Mrs. Damer, Lord and Lady Canning,
Lord Stuart de Rothesay, Lord A. Russell, Riche-
lieu, Neumann, and two or three other foreigners.
Y 3
326
[OCT.
JOURNAL OF
In the evening we all went on the water to see
the illuminations, which were general. I went with
Stuart, and the coup d'œil from the canale was beau-
tiful. The Dogana, the Salute, and other public
buildings on the quays and islands, were brilliantly
lighted up with coloured lamps by the Government,
the inhabitants limited themselves to a mere display
of candles. In the midst of the crowd of boats, as
thickly spread as carriages at a birthday, we were
overtaken by two gondolas with embroidered liveries,
who preceded another rowed by servants in plain
clothes, where were seated the Emperor and Em-
press in incognito, who were kept by the pressure
some time close to our boat. He was dressed in
uniform, she in a plain undress; they were followed
by some of the ladies and officers of their suite, and
though not wishing to attract notice, were cheered
as they passed by the public.
The imbecility of the Emperor's character does
not seem to have struck the Italians very forcibly.
His manners are simple and kind, and the late act
of amnesty at Milan has prepossessed them in his
favour. He has not much to do in his part, and
that little is done with ease and good-nature. The
Empress is a handsome woman, with very good
manners. She is greatly admired, and, they say, is
really fond of her weak husband, who is not much
gifted with personal attractions. She was originally
destined for the Church if she had not married. The
Emperor, in fact, is nearly akin to an idiot, occupied
with the merest trifles, and it is extraordinary to see,
in this age of reasoning and scepticism, when kings
1838.]
327
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
and princes are so severely judged, an immense
population like that of Austria quietly submitting to
the sway of one so inferior in intellect to his lowest
subject.
On returning to the Piazza at night, we found it
still crowded with visitors, and the squares illumi-
nated with wax candles, which were with difficulty
protected from the light breeze. On this occasion
the great clock was an object of remark, as all the
secret springs were put in motion, and at every
successive hour the train of magi in their splendid
robes came out at one door to make their obeisance
before the Virgin, and retired at the other.
At twelve o'clock the crowd was dispersed, the
canals were cleared, and the expiring lights pro-
claimed the end of the first day's performance.
Saturday, 6th.-This morning was devoted by
the Court to etiquette and presentations. It was a
curious sight, after having seen a masquerade on the
water, to see, as it were, a birthday on the same
element, as the canals were now crowded with ladies
in their full dress feathers and silks repairing in
their gondolas to the drawing-room at the palace ;
it was only another feature in this national picture,
which differs so widely from that of another country.
It was Venice, ça suffit.
He
At two o'clock the Emperor went in his gondola
on board the frigate, where he inspected the ship's
crew, and was received with music and cheers.
then rowed round his little fleet, and returned to
the palace, opposite to which is now moored Lord
Canning's yacht, in which he and Lord Stuart, his
Y 4
328
[Ост.
JOURNAL OF
father-in-law, lately arrived from Gibraltar; which
circumstance entailed upon them a short quarantine.
Richelieu dined with us, and in the evening the
Théâtre Fenice was brilliantly illuminated, and at-
tended by the whole Court in full dress; but the
performances were not of a very attractive nature.
Mrs. Augustus Craven * arrived at our hotel.
Sunday, 7th.-This morning a military mass was
performed at the church of St. Marc, for which
purpose all the jewels lately brought to the sacristy,
as well as the golden shrine for the altar, were ex-
hibited.
The ceremony was grand. The Emperor, accom-
panied by a brilliant staff, afterwards passed in re-
view the troops of this garrison in the Piazza, which
was crowded with spectators, while every window
in the Quadrant was filled with ladies, whose bright
eyes enlivened the scene.
Three military bands of music made the air re-
sound with martial airs and the national hymn.
On the Emperor's return to the palace he ap-
peared at a window to salute the crowd, who raised
a few faint cries of applause; but there was not, as
may well be supposed, any real enthusiasm.
A foreign yoke, however mild, can never excite
any stirring signs of loyalty: the times are gone by
when even legitimate sovereigns, whose families
spring from the same soil, and are endeared by the
recollections of ages, can expect any such marks of
affection; much less can a foreigner expect to be
* Now Duchesse de la Force.
1838.]
329
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
greeted with a spontaneous welcome from those who
have been allotted to him by the mandates of a
Congress, and parcelled out like a flock of sheep to
become an heir-loom in his family. Here is not even
the dazzling glory of Napoleon to flatter their vanity,
or gild the chain with the prestige of participation in
his laurels; and all recollections of former national
grandeur can only tend to embitter their present
mortifying degradation.
I went to the Beauforts' rooms at three o'clock, to
see the regatta. A balcony in one of the deserted
and neglected palaces on the Grand Canal, was fitted
up with scarlet draperies and chairs of state for the ac-
commodation of the imperial family. These gorgeous
trappings seemed to mock the time-worn edifice in
the rear, whose mouldering cornices and shattered
casements contrasted mournfully with the splendid
decorations in front. Every window, every quay,
every battlement where foot could rest, was crowded
with a dense mass of human heads, intermingled
with the tapestried balconies and Saracenic archi-
tecture of these old majestic palaces, which still
attest the grandeur of former days. The silken
hangings, the gilded bark, the decorated gondola, the
feathers, the flags, the banderolles of Venice, were
again there to celebrate the day. Perhaps the same
thoughtless love of pleasure, the same idle curiosity,
prevailed at this moment as in her former days of
magnificence. But the gaudy galley of a foreigner
had usurped the place of the glorious Bucentaurs,
and the Austrian flag had trampled into shreds the
triple standard of Cyprus, Candia, and the Morea.
330.
[Ост.
JOURNAL OF
Where were the proud Doge and his robed senators-
where the stern nobles once enrolled in the golden
book, whose deeds of fame are still registered on the
marble tablets of their sumptuous tombs? Ask their
vacant palaces, those records of departed grandeur,
whose glassless casements, mouldering ogives, and
deserted chambers attest the fall of glorious Venice,
and see their crumbling ruins now reflected in the
blue waters of their native element. Turn from this
sad sight, and view the gay scene before us. The
course is marked out from the public gardens on the
Lagune, passing up the Grand Canal before the
Emperor, then under the Rialto bridge to a post at a
certain distance, from whence the rival barks return
and strive for victory under the balcony of the
Emperor. The boats of the police are in attendance
to clear the course, while various gondolas glittering
with silk and gold hover round the candidates, and
encourage them with cheers and acclamations.
Six light skiffs, thin and taper like race-horses,
simple and devoid of ornament, each rowed by two
men in slight and simple garb, started for the prize.
To the lovers of sport this contest afforded little
interest. The race was soon decided, as the victors
had an easy conquest. The Emperor then departed
with his suite. Next came the crash of gondolas and
boats in every direction, making their way towards.
the open waters; the whole canal was one great
bridge of barks jammed and fixed together, each
striving to advance, till all became fast and im-
movable as in a sea of ice. The mildness of the
people was here very apparent: there were no
1838.]
331
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
quarrels, no invectives, each was intent on his own
object, but never losing courage or patience; they
showed also the greatest dexterity, and not a single
accident occurred to mar the pleasure of the day. In
the evening the Piazza was crowded with company.
Monday, 8th.-This morning the Lagune was gay,
the ships of war decked with 1000 flags. At nine
o'clock the Imperial family and a large suite went
from the palace in their gilded barges on board the
frigate, and from thence to the Arsenal to see the
public establishments. I dined with the Damers,
so did the Duke and Duchess of Beaufort, Richelieu,
Alvanley, Lord Walpole, &c.
-
Tuesday, 9th. This morning the Emperor was to
have gone to view the Morazzi (the old wall of
Venice), which are five leagues off, but the weather
was rainy and it was deferred. We walked about,
heard the military bands on the Piazza, and saw the
guard escort the dishes to the Imperial table, accord-
ing to the old Spanish custom.
Wednesday, 10th.-I received a few lines from
Lord Hertford, which tell me that he is better.
Thursday, 11th.-To-day was the Tombola, and
all Venice was assembled in and round the Piazza,
to see the lottery drawn for the benefit of the poor.
Two temporary buildings were erected, one under
the Emperor's windows, a pavilion for those em-
ployed in drawing the tickets, another in the centre
of the place being a pyramid, crowded with artificial
flowers, on the four sides of which the numbers
drawn were, by a mechanical process within, imme-
diately held up to public view. It was a meagre
332
[Ост.
JOURNAL OF
sight, though giving a good idea of the scene repre-
sented in Canaletti's picture, barring the character-
istic dresses of that day. There were only three
prizes of small value to be obtained.
I dined with Sir Frederick Lamb, and met the
same party as usual, with two or three foreigners.
I went with Alvanley, in his gondola, to enjoy
the fresh breeze towards the Lido, when we talked
over old times and old friends, who have vanished
from the scene. He said that poor Brummell is still
at Caen, but his intellect is impaired, and he hardly
recognizes any one. Quelle fin!
We both went with Yarmouth to a masqued ball
at the Malibran Theatre, which was filled with men
and no women, not five masks in the Salle, but the
boxes filled with well-dressed spectators, who must
have been grievously disappointed. It was so much
the more singular, as Venice, from old recollections,
is really the pays des masques; but a masquerade out
of the Carnival season is considered inadmissible.
Friday, 12th. At nine o'clock this morning I
was at the Arsenal, where the Imperial family had
just arrived to witness the launch of a corvette from
those dry docks which had formerly produced the
famed galleys of the Venetian Republic. They
were seated in a handsome tribune lined with
crimson and gold, and all around the basin were
erected boxes to accommodate the company. The
launch went off without any difficulty, the scene was
gay and the weather propitious.
I went with the Beauforts, Damers, and Alvanley
to see the glass manufactory at the Morana, where
1838.]
333
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
all the beads and Venetian ornaments are fabricated.
The process, which was minutely detailed to us, is
curious; opposite to the entrance is a triumphal
arch, made the other day, of this brittle material,
through which the Emperor passed on his arrival at
Venice. Dined with the Duke and Duchess of Beau-
fort, with Damers, Richelieu, and Mr. Mallet. We
all went on the water to see the fireworks, which
were a miserable failure. From thence with Beau-
fort and Alvanley to the Fenice Theatre, which was
crowded with company, to hear Moriani in Lucrece
Borgia.
Saturday, 13th.-The Emperor this morning went
to the Morazzi. On walking round the Basilique of
St. Marc, I observed on one of the balconies near
the steeple a little marble head, which seems placed
there by accident. It is that of General Carmagnoli,
in the time of the Republic, who had gained a vic-
tory against the Turks, but not so successfully as
the jealous Government had wished. On his return
he was invited to a splendid banquet at the Ducal
Palace, but when he retired from the feast, and was
going to descend the great staircase, the guards told
him that was not the way to his home; they com-
pelled him to go through an opposite door, when he
was immediately seized by the executioner and be-
headed in the adjoining room. Whoever remarks
the splendid Gothic balcony in front of this palace
will observe that all the marble columns are white
except two, which are of red marble. It was be-
tween these two red columns that the Grand Judge
formerly read aloud to the people below the edicts
of the Doge and the laws enacted by the Senate.
334
[Ост.
JOURNAL OF
I went with the Vice-Consul, Mr. Jatom, to the
Church of St. Salvador, near the Rialto, to see a
fine picture of "Christ at Emmaus," by John Bel-
lini: it is the best performance of that painter, and
so valuable that the Emperor of Russia has offered a
very large sum for it, which has been refused. Bel-
lini has introduced a Turk sitting with our Saviour
at table, which is the representation of his own
brother, Gentil Bellini. He was an artist at the
Court of the Sultan, and was ordered by him to
paint the decapitation of a criminal, which did not
give satisfaction to the master. In order to improve
his taste, the Sultan ordered a slave into the room
and had him beheaded on the spot, that he might be
enabled to give a more correct representation on
canvas.
This night the scene of the illuminations exceeded
all description. The Piazza and the Piazzetta were
one glowing mass of lamps, designing in flames all
the architectural beauties of the surrounding build-
ings. The great church, the Ducal Palace, the Im-
perial Palace, with their columns, doors, architraves,
and cornices, seemed to be on fire and glittering
with diamonds, while the ships and the churches
on the opposite shore were equally illuminated, and
reflected their splendid lights on the bosom of the
Adriatic. It was a scene of fairy splendour, never
to be viewed again.
The weather has been delightfully fine till eleven
o'clock, and the varied crowds moved to and fro,
while the whole space was as light as day; the
coffee-houses were thronged with guests, while the
1838.]
335
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
military bands executed martial airs; at length a
few drops of rain warned the company that a change
was at hand. This was at once the signal of retreat,
and before the spectators could reach their homes
the deluge was complete. Then were the brilliant
lamps seen gradually expiring, and the sparkling
fabrics vanishing from the sight. A sudden extin-
guisher was placed on the scene. We retired to our
hotel, paid our bills, and at two o'clock were in the
post-boat, working our tedious way through wind
and rain and darkness to the shores of Mestre. The
sailors had not even taken the precaution to have a
lanthorn on board; a storm arose, and at one time
the waves had so nearly mastered all the efforts of
our conductors, that we were really in very consider-
able danger. At last, after passing through the
different lakes, and feeling at times that our boat
was turned round by sudden gusts of wind, we hap-
pily arrived safe at our destination.
Sunday, 14th.-Without retiring to rest, we got
into the carriage at four o'clock, and resumed our
journey through Padua to Vicenza, where we break-
fasted. Here is a great hall for public meetings. At
nine in the evening we got to Verona, where we
dined, and could just obtain a glimpse of the famous
amphitheatre built by the Romans; travelling through
the night, we arrived at eight o'clock in the morn-
ing of
Monday, 15th, at Brescia, a very pretty town,
where, after breakfast, we walked to see the Musée.
This building is highly curious, as it stands on the
site, and the front still comprises a part of the façade
336
[Ост.
JOURNAL OF
and the lofty columns of the Temple of Hercules
built by the Emperor Vespasian. There have been
some interesting excavations made in the neighbour-
hood, which are here exhibited, and throw great
light on the ancient customs of the Romans. There
are numerous statues, monuments, and altars, but
the most attractive object is a bronze statue of Vic-
tory, larger than life, of the most consummate work-
manship; it places the Roman science in sculpture
far above the moderns, and is a real chef-d'œuvre.
The wings and drapery of the figure are of incon-
ceivable delicacy, and the form itself is matchless.
We resumed our journey through various stages,
making in all thirty-five French posts, and arrived
at Milan at eight o'clock in the evening, where we
put up at the Cross of Malta, and on looking over
the list of strangers were at once struck with the
name of Lady E. Harcourt, who died in this house.
Tuesday, 16th.-We went to see Lord Hertford,
who appeared much better. After leaving him to
take his morning drive, we visited the Duomo, which
is a magnificent piece of architecture; each steeple,
of which there are two or three hundred, being
crowned with a marble statue larger than life. The
decorations for the late coronation still remained un-
removed, which, though tawdry on a near approach,
would have had a grand effect at a distance. We
saw the treasure in the Sacristy, among which are
silver statues valued at two millions of francs. We
dined with Lord Hertford, and met Prince Bentheim,
General Zichy, Baron D'Asperg, and Lord Lowther.
We then went to his box at the Scala, where the
1838.]
337
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
ballet was brilliant in decorations, but feeble in
dancing. The singing wretched.
Wednesday, 17th.—I sat some time in the morn-
ing with Lord Hertford, who is far from well. Ma-
dame Zichy and her husband returned from Venice:
we met them and Lowther at dinner. We went to
the Scala in the evening, and saw the opera of the
Prigione di Edinborgo," and the ballet of "Les
Enfans d'Edouard." We now learn from the Zichys
that our voyage to Mestre on Saturday night was
considered there a very rash undertaking.
CC
-
Thursday, 18th. We dined with Lord Hertford,
and met Count Hartig, the Governor of Milan. In
the evening went to the opera.
Friday, 19th.-Lord Hertford was taken very ill,
but refused to send for further advice, having only a
German physician. We passed the whole day with
him, and dined there with Lowther. In the evening
he was rather better, and we left him composed for
sleep.
Saturday, 20th. We walked to the Arch of
Triumph, built in commemoration of peace, and then
to the Arena, or Circus, built by Napoleon after the
Roman models. We dined at Lord H.'s with the
Zichys and Lowther, and when he was composed to
sleep, we went to the opera.
Sunday, 21st.-Lord Hertford much better. In the
evening we went up stairs to drink tea with Lady
Cadogan and her daughter, who are just arrived
at this hotel from Como.
Monday, 22nd. - The Duke of Devonshire is
here, and Lord and Lady Robert Grosvenor arrived
VOL. III.
Z
338
[Ост.
JOURNAL OF
seen.
here to-day. We called upon the Governor, Count
Hartig, to return his visit. We dined at Lord
Hertford's with the Zichys, and went to the Girolamo
Theatre, or fantoccini, which was inimitably executed.
The dearth of news in this place is grievous; all
letters are opened by the police, and there are no
means of getting any parcels from France except
by a private hand; an English newspaper is never
All these disadvantages are hardly compen-
sated by the meridian sky, the classical monuments,
and the far-niente life of Italy. Milan seems to be
the temple of darkness. No town is so difficult to
understand, and we are constantly losing our way
in
the streets, The natives are peculiarly civil, and
always ready to set a stranger right in his road;
gentlemen will often insist upon accompanying you,
and join readily in conversation. I ascribed this to
their natural civility, but Baron D'Orfrey said that it
might rather be traced to the great dearth of news.
and information, which rendered every stranger an
object of momentary interest. He mentioned an
instance of this nature in a stranger who had lost his
way, and was immediately accompanied by a gentle-
man who offered to conduct him. After taking him
a tour of two hours round the town, and gaining all
the information which the other could impart, he at
last said, "à-propos, Où allez-vous ?" When the
other told him again what was his object, he said,
"Ma foi, je ne connais pas cette rue;" and, making
a bow, left him further from his point than ever.
Tuesday, 23rd.-Lord Hertford quite convalescent.
We dined there with the two Zichys, and, having
taken our leave, went to the Scala, where was given
1838.]
339
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
a new ballet, called the Veneziani in Constantinople,
taken from the picture in the Ducal Palace at
Venice, of that siege by the Doge Dandolo. The
decorations were really splendid. This theatre con-
tains 250 boxes, including the great Imperial, and is
remarkable for its size, symmetry, and architectural
beauty. The whole is white and gold.
Wednesday, 24th. We left Milan at one o'clock,
and reached Novara at eight. A good inn; dinner,
with Piedmontese truffles and Asti wine; travelled
through the night, and arrived at Turin on
Thursday, 25th, at seven o'clock in the morning,
where we breakfasted. The Palace was opposite to
our hotel, and we saw the King go out on horseback
with his staff to review two regiments of his troops
on the Place d'Armes. They had a good appearance,
and were dressed in the French manner.
I walked into a church near the Place Carignan,
where I saw a funeral, and the dead body exposed to
public view, — the eyes closed, and the hands bent
together to hold a sacramental cup.
Here is a fine opera, and the town is beautiful;
but we found great difficulty about passports, owing
to the Austrian influence, whose jealousy extends to
all foreigners.
We proceeded to Suze, at the foot of Mount
Cenis, where we got a bad dinner; and then by a
clear moonlight ascended the mountain, which was,
perhaps, more picturesque than by day.
We then made our descent, and arrived at St.
Michel on
Friday, 26th, at six in the morning. Travelled
z 2
340
[Nov.
JOURNAL OF
through the whole day; passed through Chambéry in
the night, then through a tunnel cut in the solid
rock for a long distance, and lighted with lamps,
to the Echelles de Savoie, till we reached Pont de
Beauvoisin, the French frontier.
The Custom-
Saturday, 27th, at eight o'clock.
House officers were neither severe nor tedious. We
moved on again and reached Lyons, at five o'clock,
to a dinner at the Hôtel d'Europe.
Sunday, 28th.-In the morning I walked about
Lyons, which is now very tranquil, and will pro-
bably remain so for the future, as all the heights
around have been garnished with strong forts, com-
manding the town, which, at a moment's warning,
could sweep the principal streets, and lay the whole
city in ashes. There is a garrison here of above
10,000 men always on the alert in their barracks.
We set off at two o'clock, dined at Ville Franche,
where we found good perch and Tonin wine, and
arrived, at twelve o'clock in the morning,
Monday, 29th, at Autun, Talleyrand's early
bishoprick. Here are some specimens of Roman archi-
tecture, and the remains of a wall which surrounded
the town in those days: from thence to Sanlieu.
Tuesday, 30th.-Reached Auxerre at eight in the
morning, and continued our route to Sens, where we
dined at seven; and, travelling through another
night, terminated our long journey of near 2,000
English miles, by reaching Paris on Wednesday,
31st.
*
*
*
Saturday, November 10th. A stone has lately
1838.]
341
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
been found at Nerac, bearing an inscription, which
has created much speculation among the learned and
antiquaries in the surrounding country. There ap-
peared no doubt that it was in the Latin language,
but the sense seemed difficult to translate :
Similiter causaque ego ambo te fuman cum de suis.”
After repeated fruitless attempts to decipher this
mystery, it was proposed to refer this piece of an-
tiquity to the Academy at Paris, when an old inha-
bitant, who traced the stone to a building used by
the Russian troops during the invasion of 1814, sud-
denly rendered the sense thus:-
"Six militaires Cosaques égaux en beauté, fumant comme des
Suisses."
Saturday, 17th.-Mr. Cutlar Fergusson died yes-
terday in Paris of a consumption. He was Judge-
Advocate General under this government, and had
made a large fortune in India. The Duc de Fitz-
james has been carried off by an apoplectic fit, at his
château in Normandy.
Friday, 23rd.-Poor Sefton
last in London, aged sixty-seven.
died on Tuesday
He had been, for
the last twelve months, in a state of moral and phy-
sical weakness, from which death must have been a
happy release. His lively humour and hospitality
will long be remembered by a large circle of friends.
Monday, December 3rd. We heard the news of
Lord Durham's arrival at Portsmouth from Canada,
and that the provinces, immediately after his de-
parture, had broken out in open rebellion.
Z 3
342
[DEC. 1838.
JOURNAL OF
Tuesday, 4th. — Talking to-day at dinner of
Prince Labanoff, who is often disputing, and not
with much temper, Montrond remarked, "Oui, il
faut avouer que pour un Russe il est mal élevé.”
Wednesday, 5th. The Canadian rebellion seems
to have been quelled by Sir R. Colborne.
-
Wednesday, 19th. Field Marshal Prince Wrede
died at Elhingen, in Bavaria, on the 12th inst.
According to the directions in his will, his body was
opened after his death to extract a ball which he
had received twenty-five years ago at the battle of
Hanau, and which is to be kept by his family in a
sepulchral urn. He was born in 1767.
As a proof of the value of greyhounds in Russia,
we may take an announcement of the Odessa Jour-
nal, that an estate of 2000 acres with seventy-eight
peasants was recently offered by the marshal of the
district of Ekaterinoslav in exchange for a white grey-
hound called Sultan, belonging to another nobleman.
Friday, 21st.- Dupin was re-elected President
of the Chamber by only a majority of five. He had
announced that he would not accept the office again,
unless by a great plurality of voices. He will remain.
Madame de Noailles said last night, "Qui est ce
qui voudroit voir Du pain rassis ?"
The committee for the Address is formed of the
hostile party, which will embarrass the Ministry.
Thursday, 27th. This evening at the Vicomtesse
de Noailles, Mademoiselle Rachel recited some of her
parts in the Horatii of Corneille, and in the Mithri-
date of Racine. It was a very interesting perform-
ance.
1839.]
343
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
1839.
FRIDAY, January 4th. The Duchess of Würtem-
berg (Princess Marie) is so dangerously ill at Pisa
that Lady Granville's ball was put off. Prince
Paul of Würtemberg told me this morning that she
was in a galloping consumption, and could not live
many days.
Wednesday, 9th. The news arrived of the death
of the Princess Marie at Pisa on the 3rd inst.
Tuesday, 22nd.-M. Molé and his colleagues, dis-
satisfied with the opposition formed in the Chambers
against their amendments to the Radical address
proposed by Dupin, Guizot, and Thiers, &c., this
morning, at eleven o'clock, went to the King, and
gave in their resignations. The Duke of Bucking-
ham is just dead at Stowe, aged sixty-three.
Friday, February 1st. The news arrived that
Lord Granville's sister-in-law, the Duchess-Countess
of Sutherland, had died on the 29th, which will
cause the Embassy to be closed for six weeks.
There has been so much difficulty in forming a
new Administration here, that M. Molé remains,
though determined on a dissolution. The Carlist
party have joined the Republicans to embarrass the
King's Government, and seem to wish for confusion
and revolution, which will do no good to their cause,
Z 4
344
[APRIL,
JOURNAL OF
and may risk their property as well as their exist-
ence.
There are those who think the aspect of affairs as
ominous as in 1829.
Monday, 11th. Yesterday M. Molé and the
Ministers gave in their resignation.
Sunday, 31st.-A letter from England announces
that De Ros died on Thursday evening. His dis-
order was a dropsy, which came on gradually, and
had confined him to the house for some time; he did
not appear sensible of his danger, and kept up his
spirits to the last.
Lord Suffield is completely ruined by the most
weak and reckless extravagance.
Four years ago
he came into possession of a fine fortune of 14,0007.
a year, and now will have only his wife's jointure of
500l. a year.
No ministry is formed here. The shuffling in-
trigues of Thiers to obtain the ascendancy have so
brouillé les cartes, that no one can agree with him,
and the King can form no Cabinet.
Monday, April 1st.-Lord Hertford arrived, alone,
from Milan. We dined with him, and met Croker,
and Lords Lowther and Yarmouth.
In the evening heard at Lady Granville's that a
provisional ministry had been formed, for the sake of
business, with M. Gasparin at the head. There is
no President of the Council, and as neither the
doctrinaires nor the Thiers party are included, it
cannot last long; the object is to wait and see the
real intentions of the new Chamber.
On this day the Chambers met, with the Provi-
1839.]
345
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
sional Ministry; there were crowds of ill-looking
fellows about the Bridge and the doors of the As-
sembly, but troops were everywhere on the alert,
and in great numbers. At night some attempts
were made to rob the gunsmiths' shops, but were
soon repressed.
Friday, 5th. More attempts at disorder this
evening near the Porte St. Martin and the Temple,
but easily put down. The spirit of discontent
prevails.
Tuesday, 9th.— Lords Hertford, Lowther, Fitz-
gerald, and Lyndhurst, (a snug Conservative party,)
have left Paris for the campaign against the Ministry.
Friday, 19th.-No news yet arrived of the division
on Monday's debate, which it is supposed will last
for four or five days. Lord Leveson writes to his
father it will be 21.
Saturday, 20th.-M. Lehon, the Belgian Minister,
came in from the Tuileries to Mde. de Segur's this
evening, where he told Lord Granville that the
division took place this morning at four o'clock,
with a majority of 22 for Ministers. The account
reached the King by telegraph.
Monday, 22nd.-In the debate in the Chambers
to-day, M. Dupin, speaking of Marshal Soult, called
him a palmier which protected his party with its
wide-spreading branches; a Member wrote to him
the following note:-
"Mon cher Dupin,
"Votre palmier n'est qu'un platane,-plat-ane."
The children here who are born in a regiment, on
losing their mother, as their father is seldom known,
346
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
are adopted by the corps, live under its protection,
and are called enfans du regiment; as they advance in
age they are taught the military duties, and serve in
the ranks as recruits.
Quand je vins au monde, ma mère
Dans un drapeau m'enveloppa,
J'appelais, n'ayant pas de père,
Tout le regiment-Mon papa."
Saturday, 27th.—No Ministry formed.
Greville writes to me: "There are various elements
of danger in greater or less operation, and we have
need of a strong government which shall be imbued
with a spirit at once liberal and moderate; but above
all, which has fixed and definite principles, and firm-
ness and consistency of purpose. The difficulties, how-
ever, of forming such a government, and of its being
supported when formed, by a party powerful enough
to give it free scope and unembarrassed action, are
very great. There is an awful spirit abroad, which is
daily getting worse, and a vast under-current of dis-
affection and discontent which it requires infinite
sagacity and resolution to check and control; how-
ever, if the day ever comes when the Conservative
power is obliged to put forth its strength, and shake
its terrible locks, I think it will be found far greater
than anybody imagines."
Tuesday, 30th.-The Duke of Cleveland has got
the vacant Garter.
Wednesday, May 1st.-The King's fête, celebrated
with the usual fooleries for the people in the Champs
Elysées.
1839.]
347
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
The robberies and murders continue to increase.
The tribunals have lately condemned to death Souf-
flard and Lesage for the murder of Madame Renaud,
Marchande de la Rue du Temple. As the latter was
returning to his cell after the pronunciation of his
sentence, he found means to swallow a dose of arsenic,
which he had previously secreted about his person,
and died in great agony. Since this event, Soufflard,
who had appealed to the Court of Cassation, without
waiting for the result, has strangled himself in prison
with his pocket-handkerchief.
Wednesday, 8th.-We received the news by tele-
graph that Ministers, having only a majority of five
on the Jamaica Question, had resigned.
their Radical friends voted against them.
Ten of
Thursday, 9th.—The telegraph announced that
yesterday at two o'clock the Queen sent for the Duke
of Wellington; and at three o'clock received Sir
Robert Peel, who accepted the office of forming a
Government.
Friday, 10th.-At the Embassy this evening.
Lady Granville seemed melancholy at the idea of
leaving Paris, and every one regretting the event-
we particularly.
Saturday, 11th.-Some of the appointments de-
clared.
Sunday, 12th.-When Sir Robert Peel stated to
Her Majesty the necessity of changing the ladies of
her household, she positively declined to accede to
the proposal; upon which he gave in his resignation,
and the Queen sent again for Lord Melbourne.
Monday, 13th. Lord Granville will probably
348
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
remain for the present, as Lord Melbourne is trying
to reform the Ministry, which the Radicals will now
force him to make more democratical, as the condi-
tion of supporting him.
A new Ministry has at length been announced
here, to replace the Provisional Cabinet. Marshal
Soult is President of the Council and Minister
for Foreign Affairs, to the complete exclusion of
Thiers.
Yesterday, extraordinary tumults broke out in the
quarters of St. Denis and Montmartre, the origin of
which no one can understand. The mob was pre-
viously organised, and seemed to have well taken its
precautions. They broke into the armourers' shops,
and attacked the troops in their posts, committing
much slaughter. The National Guard and the Line
behaved very well. Many lives have been lost on
both sides.
Tuesday, 14th.-Yesterday, the fighting in the
streets was continued. Large bodies of troops were
brought in from the neighbourhood, and the rebellion
was completely put down. The prisoners are to be
tried before the Chamber of Peers.
Wednesday, 15th. - In addition to the defeat of
M. Thiers in the Ministry, he has this day lost the
presidence of the Chamber, by a majority of seven
in favour of M. Sauzet. It is said that 280 men
have been killed on both sides during the late sudden
insurrection.
The conspiracy was evidently of Republican
origin, and well organised. It was divided into ten
sections, of which one only was engaged, as the other
1839.]
349
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
nine, from some misunderstanding of signals, did not
rise.
Friday, 17th.-Explanations have been given by
Sir Robert Peel on Tuesday in the House of Com-
mons, and by the Duke in the Lords, of what passed
during their communications with the Queen, and
which were delivered in that frank and manly tone
which characterises the individuals.
Monday, 20th. I received a letter from
with the following account of what passed at the
Palace between the Queen and Peel:-
"It is difficult to describe the amazement and
excitement into which the town was thrown by the
rupture of the negotiations with Peel, and the lies.
which, in consequence, were immediately circulated
de part et d'autre. For my own part, I regarded it
with the deepest regret, and albeit not an alarmist,
but, on the contrary, having always taken the cheer-
ful view of public affairs, and believing in the latent
power of our institutions to brave all assaults of their
enemies, I have been on this occasion, and still am,
deeply alarmed, for I cannot foresee what the con-
sequences may be. I cannot tell you what it is I
fear, for my apprehensions are not fixed upon parti-
cular and definite objects, but I think clouds and
darkness rest upon the future to a degree that is
quite appalling. With respect to the origin of this
rupture, you may rest assured that it was not the
result of any scheme or plot. The conduct of
Melbourne and his colleagues amazes me; while
they thought (as, in fact, they might think) that
the Queen was ill used and harshly treated, they
350
[MAY,
JOURNAL OF
might have thought themselves bound in honour
and gratitude to stand by her; but when they
were aware of the whole truth, and that she had
stood upon a principle which is not maintainable,
and which they knew not to be so, and was not re-
sisting an unfair, oppressive, tyrannical application
of the principle, they were bound, in duty to the
country, and in duty to the Queen herself, to tell
her the truth, and, instead of upholding her in what
they knew was indefensible, because it gratified her
inclinations, to have instructed her in the nature,
scope, and limit of her high functions, and to have
advised her to submit, with a good grace and in
time, to the personal sacrifice which, in her public
capacity, it was incumbent on her to make, and
which, after all, would not have been exacted in a
manner painful to her feelings, or destructive of her
social comforts. Nothing is more curious in this
contest than the ground respectively occupied by
the Whigs and the Tories, each seeming to be fight-
ing under the old banners of the other. God knows
how it is all to end: they mean to try a dissolution
if they find they cannot go on, and it remains to be
seen what part the country will take, and whether
it will espouse the Queen's cause or not. The
Court is not popular just now; the Hastings' story
is a great drawback; but for that, I have no doubt,
the public would sympathise with her. However,
you will see the explanations which will, I dare say,
be very reserved and respectful to her. Anything
is better than having the Crown brought into dis-
repute; but I must say this last event is a rude
shock to our institutions."
1839.]
351
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Tuesday, 22nd.-Lady Charlotte Greville is come
over to see her brother, Lord William Bentinck,
now dangerously ill of an affection of the heart.
The Epsom races were run last week, when the
Derby was won by Mr. Ridsdale's Bloomsbury:
30 to 1 against him.
Friday, 24th.-It is the Queen's birthday, and
Lady Granville gave a magnificent ball. Part of
the garden was converted into a temporary room;
and if the weather had been warmer, the fête would
have been unrivalled.
Saturday, 25th. In the evening there were some
private theatricals at Madame de Noailles, with
Mademoiselle Rachel and her young sisters.
Wednesday, 29th. The "France" cites a mot of
Montrond to Thiers. When the latter was boasting
of his power, he added, "Je mettrai la couronne à
mes pieds." The other said, "J'aimerois mieux la
voir à vos pieds que sur votre tête.”
Thursday, 30th. This month has been fatal in
the Bonaparte family. Cardinal Fesch is dead at
Rome, and the Countess Lipona, formerly Caroline
Murat, at Florence.
Sunday, June 2nd. Lord W. Bentinck was so
ill to-day, that his life is despaired of.
The Common Council have refused to address the
Queen in the City. G writes:-
"The Grand Duke* goes to-day. It is said he is
not satisfied with the Queen, but I cannot find out
why, except that she did not ask him to dinner very
often. Probably she thought he might amuse him-
* The present Emperor.
352
[JUNE,
JOURNAL OF
self better than by dining at Buckingham House,
as I imagine he could. She supplied him with
horses and carriages, one of her lords, and gave him
two dinners, plenty of balls, and a fête at Windsor.
He is very ordinary-looking, scatters money with
inconceivable profusion, and it is provoking to hear
that he does not know how on earth to get rid of the
sum appropriated for his journey (he has 40,0007.
per month). The principal gainers here by him will
have been the hotel-keepers and the jewellers, whose
bills, I should guess, would be curiosities. They
will not have soon again the plucking of a pigeon
with such gaudy plumage.
Clarendon is to be
married on Tuesday."
Thursday, 6th.—Received a letter from Alvanley,
at Naples, pressing me to go and pay him a visit.
Friday, 7th.-The Prefect of the Seine told a
friend of mine that they were in constant apprehen-
sion of a fresh insurrection; that they had informa-
tion of the plot which was to break out some day, at
two o'clock in the morning, when the National
Guard were asleep.
Saturday, 8th.-Incessant rain, lightning, and
thunder. A bolt fell on the Rue de Meslay, but
did no mischief.
At eight o'clock this evening Lord W. Bentinck
died.
Wednesday, 19th.-The result of an autopsy on
Lord W. Bentinck is, that his disease was an ossifi-
cation of the heart, attended with cancer of the aorta.
The body is to be sent to England for interment.
His end was tranquil, sudden, and without pain.
1839.]
353
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Friday, 21st.-Aulnay,-where we dined to-day
with Count and Countess de Girardin, and met Mar-
quis de Jamboni, Walewski, Greffulhe, and Montrond,
-is a charming spot; a house in the cottage style,
with grounds and shrubberies kept in great order.
It is situated near Sceaux, and overlooks the park
and grounds formerly belonging to the Duc du
Maine, though the château has been pulled down,
and only the orangery remains. As an instance how
landed property is now subdivided into the hands
of small proprietors, M. de Girardin told me that,
in his neighbourhood, it is seldom sold by the acre,
but by the perch.
Saturday, 22nd.—The preparations in the Chamber
of Peers for the trial of the prisoners made during
the émeutes, are now finished, and the Court will open
on Monday for that purpose.
Sunday, 23rd.-Two days after the death of Lord
W. Bentinck, the King, Queen, and Princesses went
to his hotel to pay a visit of condolence to the widow.
They were admitted into the room where the corpse
was lying, and all fell upon their knees round the
bed, and prayed for the deceased. Lady W. Bentinck
went yesterday to London.
Monday, 24th.-The long-standing cause of the
Duke of Richmond, concerning the estate of D'Au-
bigny, has come on again for hearing before the
Court of Cassation. The tribunal of Sancerre has
decided in favour of the younger children's claim.
The Court of Bourges, in 1835, gave a verdict in
favour of the Duke. Now the Court of Cassation
has annulled that of Bourges.
VOL. III.
A A
354
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
Wednesday, 26th.-I met at dinner, at Mr. and
Mrs. Errington's, Sir W. and Lady Becher. She was
Miss O'Neill, of theatrical fame, and is very pleasing,
Thursday, 27th.-The Government, on the Edu-
cation Bill, had only a majority of two. Aston is
appointed Minister at Madrid, to the great regret of
all his friends here.
Monday, July 1st.-I went to the Luxembourg,
to see the trial of the conspirators in the late émeute
before the Chamber of Peers. The forms of the
Court are not very impressive; the only two high
law-officers are the Chancellor, as President, and the
Procureur-Général. What particularly struck me
was the caducité de la jeune France in the assembled
peers. With a very few exceptions, they were all
grey-headed, and many of them mean looking. The
gendarmes in the Court were a much finer-look-
ing set of men. Among the prisoners, who were
brought into Court and seated each between two
gendarmes, Barbés was the only good-looking man :
he made use of a singular expression; "Je ne re-
connois pas cette cour, c'est une chambre; nous ne
sommes pas des assassins; nous n'avons fait qu'une
guerre civile, c'est pourquoi nous ne demandons pas
votre justice, nous demandons votre générosité, car
nous sommes des vaincus." He refuses to answer
any questions. The evidence against Mialon was
very conclusive that he had shot the Municipal
Guard. The rest of the prisoners are young, vulgar
lads of the lowest classes.
Tuesday, 2nd. Montrond was taken ill of an
attack of erysipelas while on a visit at Versailles.
1839.]
355
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Prince Labanoff made me a present of a copy of
the autograph letters of Mary Queen of Scots, pub-
lished by himself.
Lord Lucan is dead, in his seventy-fourth year.
He was a gay gallant in his time, and married Lady
Elizabeth Belasyse, who was separated, on his ac-
count, from her first husband, Mr. Howard*, the
present Duke of Norfolk. He was father to Lady
E. Harcourt, who died last autumn at Milan.
Sunday, 7th.- Pozzo di Borgo is just arrived
from England. He is much altered in his appear-
ance, grown very old and thin, and his mind seems
evidently on the wane.
I talked to him some time
this evening at Madame Graham's, but his replies
were incoherent and confused. He is now seventy-
six years old.
The papers announce the death of Lady Flora
Hastings.
*
*
*
*
Monday, 8th.—The Chancellor of the Exchequer,
in bringing forward his budget, has proposed that
the postage on all single letters should be reduced
to one penny. This will increase the number of
idle scribblers, be of little benefit to the lower
classes, who seldom have occasion to write, and is
likely only to advantage the commercial houses and
bankers, who can well afford to pay the postage.
Tuesday, 9th. The Chambers have allowed an
annuity of 6000 francs per annum to M. Daguerre
for his life, on conceding to the State the process of
fixing the objects of the camera obscura.
* The grandfather of the present Duke.
A A 2
356
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
Wednesday, 10th.-For the last two days the
Peers have been deliberating on the sentence of the
prisoners, which will probably be pronounced to-
day. Their guilt is evident, at least that of Barbés
and Martin Bernard, and Mialon; but how can
those who enacted the Revolution of July condemn
them for crimes which they have committed them-
selves? The only difference in their cases is success
on one side and defeat on the other.
Friday, 12th.-The Peers gave in their decision
this evening. Barbés alone is condemned to death.
I met Lady Brownlow this evening, just arrived
from Nice on her way to England.
Saturday, 13th.-I called on Lord and Lady
Brownlow. While I was there a large party of
students passed through the Place Vendome, march-
ing four a breast, and saluted the statue of Na-
poleon on their way to the Minister of Justice, to
petition for the abolition of capital punishment. The
relations of Barbés went to Neuilly to entreat for
his pardon of the King, who received them, and
replied, that if it only depended on him it should be
immediately granted.
Monday, 15th. After some meetings of the
Council, in which it is asserted that the Ministers
held out strongly for the penalty of death, it is at
last announced that the King asserted his prero-
gative, and commuted the penalty of Barbés's sen-
tence into labour for life at the galleys. The fact
is, he lives in constant dread of the Republicans,
and dares not go to extremities with them. In this
1839.]
357
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
instance, under the semblance of moderation, he
inflicts a punishment far worse than death.*
Tuesday, 16th.—I set out this evening for Chalons
sur Saône, on my way to visit Alvanley at Naples.
It was
a beautiful night. The Boulevards were
crowded with multitudes of loungers, and illumi-
nated with cafés, theatres, and concerts, from the
Madeleine to the Jardin Turc. From that point.
the brilliancy of the scene began to subside till the
outer Boulevard, when the darker suburbs seemed
to be what they really are, the fit abodes for nightly
thieves and assassins. Passing the bridge opposite
to the Jardin des Plantes, the reflection of the lights
in the town on the broad bosom of the river, had a
fine effect, but on turning off to the high road to
Lyons, all again became dreary and solitary to the
view. Unlike the crowded avenues to London, not
a carriage was to be seen, except here and there a
public diligence or a waggon of the roulage. All
the real bustle and splendour of France are centred
in the streets of Paris.
Thursday, 18th.—Having travelled through the
night, I breakfasted at Bligny, and arrived at six
o'clock to dinner at Châlons, a neat pretty town,
with good warm baths.
Friday, 19th. Embarked on board the steam-
* Barbés was liberated at the Revolution of 1848, was soon
afterwards condemned to perpetual imprisonment for attempting to
overthrow the Government, and was once more set at liberty in
1854 by the Emperor of the French for the patriotic sentiments he
expressed respecting the war with Russia.
A A 3
358
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
boat at five in the morning. A great number of
passengers, but, naturally enough, all new faces,
and several children, who exhibited the French
mother with the usual failing of spoiling and
cramming her offspring with everything they cry
for, which, as they find the efficacy of crying, is
their constant mode of asking. After a tedious
passage, getting two or three times aground on
account of the river being dried up by the heat,
we reached Lyons at six o'clock, and I find myself
in the same room, at the Hôtel de l'Europe, which
Yarmouth and myself occupied in the end of last
October coming from Milan.
ture.
Saturday, 20th. At four o'clock precisely I was
in the steamboat from Lyons, and as the current
was in our favour, we went with great rapidity
down the Rhone, where the heat was excessive.
The march of intellect is shown here by numerous
iron and suspension bridges, which have been built
within the last few years, and are for the most part
handsome specimens of light and elegant architec-
The company on board was composed of the
neighbouring inhabitants going from one station to
another of the voyage, and as one party was landed
others arrived to fill up their places, the whole giving
a fair specimen of provincial dress and manners.
We stopped for a short time at the fine old town of
Avignon, so marked by its monuments of papal
splendour. We thence proceeded to the curious
town of Beaucaire. In the evening I walked
through the town and saw the preparations for the
great commercial fair which takes place here at this
1839.]
359
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
season.
The booths were not yet opened, but the
low coffee-houses were filled with guests and min-
strels, who gave the square some little resemblance
to the Place St. Marc at Venice; indeed, the ap-
proach to the confines of Italy becomes here strongly
marked in the language, manners, and complexion of
the people. Hitherto I have met no English on my
journey, and as I am not easily recognised for one
myself, having lived so much with foreigners, I am
afforded as much facility for my observations as I
could have if I were one of themselves. And one
great justice I must render foreigners. They are
infinitely more simple-minded and devoid of affecta-
tion than we are. Both men and women of fortune
speak as naturally of travelling by the diligence as
they would of their carriage and four. None attempt
to assume importance by vulgar comments on what
is inoffensive in their neighbours or unknown to
themselves. Every one does what suits him best,
and talks with those from whom he may gain infor-
mation. Certain upstart English feelings are un-
known out of England.
Sunday, 21st. I returned on board the steam-
boat at six in the morning. The inn where I had
slept proved as exorbitant in price as the accommoda-
tions were wretched. The rogues availed themselves
of the pretext of numerous guests brought thither
by the fair, to charge higher for everything than the
most extravagant hotel in London or Paris. We
proceeded down the Rhone to the town of Arles, which
may
be called a relic of ancient Rome. The women
here are beautiful, and the costume becoming. The
AA 4
360
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
race is fine, but the language unintelligible. Re-
suming our voyage, anchored in the port of Mar-
seilles, after a delightful sail up the gulf, at half-
past two in the day, and went to the Hotel Beauveau.
The distance of 519 English miles was performed,
notwithstanding stops and impediments, in 113
hours, going always wet to bed at night.
There were some characters on board the steam-
boat. An officer of Chasseurs, about to join his
regiment at Algiers, gave me a miserable account
of the colony, which meets with every opposition
from the natives. Any one who ventures half a
league from the outposts is sure to be murdered; and
the more the Government tries to conciliate Abdel
Kader and his fierce tribes, the more rancorous
he says they become. The town itself is now a little
Paris, fine shops, theatres, coffee-houses and restau-
rateurs,—every luxury to be had for money; but the
duties of the soldier are laborious and unceasing.
Garrisoned in small camps and forts, exposed to daily
ambush, and suffering severe privations, they are all
discontented with the service, and happy to return.
home. There are many venomous animals,-snakes,
vipers, and particularly scorpions, that creep about
them at night, and if accidentally touched, speedily
retaliate. The numerous force necessary to maintain
their present position, without attempting to extend
it, will cost so much treasure, that the French must
find the colony a constant source of embarrassment
instead of an advantage. The Arabs will maintain an
unceasing warfare, even in time of apparent peace;
and as they hold the life of man very cheap, they will
1839.]
361
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
assassinate any one to commit the most trifling theft.
Murders are therefore of constant occurrence.
Sultan Mahmoud died at Constantinople on the
30th ult., and was succeeded by his son, with the
approbation of the Divan.
Serious riots have taken place last week at Bir-
mingham, and the Chartists have burnt many houses
and demolished much property, for which we may
thank the truckling spirit of our rulers, who dare
not face the people. I called on the English Consul,
Mr. Turnbull, who requested me to take a bag of
English dispatches to Genoa. He had just received
a letter from the East, with the account of a decided
victory gained by the Egyptians over the Turks,
which stated the loss of the latter at 27,000 killed,
37,000 prisoners, with all the tents, baggage, and
military chest of some millions of piastres. This
must be evidently an exaggerated account, though
substantially true. So much for the efficacy of
English and French intervention to stop hostilities.
Our Indian army at Cabul has been successful, but
the Burmese have declared war against the British
Government.
The grisettes at Marseilles are pretty, and wear a
costume partly Parisian, partly of their own fancy ;
a very small cap, a gown with a long waist, tight
sleeves down to the elbow, then full and ample down
to the wrist, which gives the appearance of long
ruffles, and made very full about the hips, so as to
give the effect of a hoop. At a distance they look
like the pictures of Madame de Pompadour. The
boatmen and porters look like Italian lazzaroni.
362
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
Tuesday, 23rd.-At five o'clock, P. M., left Mar-
seilles in the "Pharamond" steamer. On quitting
the harbour, we passed the lazaret and the forts.
We are now again on the Mediterranean, and pursue
our course with the land always in view to our left.
We passed Toulon and the Hières by moonlight, then
retired to rest; and found ourselves in the morning
in what is called la rivière de Gènes. The whole
coast is mountainous, covered with small forests of
olive trees, and studded here and there with bourgs
and villages, some of which are adorned with splendid
châteaux, built by the Genoese aristocracy and the
high clergy, who have selected this beautiful situa-
tion for country residences. The Doria family still
possess several. Among these bourgs is that of
Vintimille, from which the family of Mesdames
Girardin and Segur doubtless take their name, as
well as that Archbishop of Paris well known for his
gourmandise. We passed San Remo, where Napoleon
confined the Pope a prisoner; then Port Maurice, a
pretty town seated on an eminence, and crowning a
hill, of which the base is washed by the sea. Some
of the buildings in it are very fine, and not the least
remarkable is a church, which is, in miniature, the
exact model of St. Peter's at Rome. It was a pious
donation from some rich Genoese, and of beautiful
architecture.
In the bottom, along the sea-shore, winds the road
of the Corniche, where the inns are very bad and ill
provided with any accommodations for the traveller.
Here and there are to be seen religious seminaries of
large extent, with their proud turrets; while the
1839.]
363
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
châlets on the mountain's top above, and the fisher-
men's huts below on the shore, tend to diversify the
scene which skirts the blue waters of the Mediter-
ranean, till at last the Bay of Genoa bursts on the
sight, with the ancient and picturesque city, sur-
rounded by mountains, which shelter it from the
northern breeze. If Venice is a city of palaces on
the sea, Genoa is the city of palaces on the land.
The most striking object from the harbour is the
Doria Palace, with its terraces in front and gardens
at the back, where the colossal statue of the great
admiral is seen looking to the element which had
been the scene of his glory when alive. This spacious
building is not kept in good repair, nor does its in-
terior now vie with many palaces of inferior note and
size; although Napoleon chose it for his own re-
sidence when he was at Genoa.
The Prince of this family, brother to the one who
lately married Lady Mary Talbot at Rome, is now
about to marry the Marquise Pallavicini, a very rich
heiress of Genoa. His heartless conduct last year to
a young Roman lady, whom he deserted, and who
died of grief in consequence, excited so much indig-
nation at her funeral, that the populace were with
difficulty prevented from sacking his hotel, and he
dares not return to Rome.
I went ashore to see the Consul, Mr. Stirling, for
whom I had brought a bag of dispatches from Mar-
seilles. He is living in a fine hotel belonging to the
Spinola family. I got a very good dinner at the
Hôtel des Nations, of which ortolans and Cyprus
wine did not diminish the merit.
364
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
Wednesday, 24th.-I visited the Ducal Palace
and different churches. Convents abound in Genoa:
it is said there are more monks than soldiers, and
they are seen at every corner of the street,—friars,
white, brown, and grey; the nuns are not allowed
to quit their cloisters.
I went into the Cathedral, where service was
being performed and listened to with great atten-
tion: there were many women, all well dressed, and
the muslin veils, universally worn, gave them a
devotional appearance.
Thursday, 25th. Among the modern palaces
is one lately built by Paganini, the eccentric vio-
linist, with the money which he has gained by his
concerts in Europe, and particularly in England,
His avarice is remarkable; and this new palace is
only built on speculation. Two of his lodgers are the
brothers Durazzo, who occupy a moderate suite of
apartments within a few yards of that costly palace
built by their ancestors, which they have alienated
from the family for ever: as the laquais de place
remarked to me, if the old Durazzos could rise from
their tombs they would die again of grief, to see
this noble heir-loom sold by their descendants. Both
here and at Venice, which were favourite residences
of Byron, it is pleasing to see the veneration in
which they hold the poet's memory, and the exulta-
tion with which they show the palaces he inhabited;
they consider his poetry, in which Italy is one of his
favourite themes, as a source of national pride. It
was from hence that he departed on that romantic
expedition to Greece where he finished his mortal
1839.]
365
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
career at an early age. At seven o'clock this even-
ing we weighed anchor, with a fine Italian sky and
a favourable wind; after another delightful voyage
during the night, arrived at Leghorn early in the
morning of
Friday, 26th. This port is open and large,
flanked by a fortress on one side, and two watch
towers on the other; but the trade of this once great
commercial town is on the wane, and Trieste has
undermined the sources of its former opulence. The
baths of Pisa, which are situated at a distance of
three or four leagues from hence, are much visited
by the curious. In the harbour were a few American
ships, some of them loading Carrara marble for
statues and columns, which brought from such a dis-
tance must cost the owners ear; it is a proof of the
increasing luxury in the United States. Left Le-
ghorn at six P. M., and at ten o'clock passed close to
the island of Elba, well known as the temporary re-
treat of Napoleon, which he quitted in a few months
to work out his final doom. Arrived at Cività Vecchia
on the morning of
Saturday, 27th. This town, so celebrated in the
old Italian wars, was built by the Emperor Trajan,
whose baths are still to be seen at two leagues' dis-
tance. It is garrisoned by papal troops, and pre-
sents a mass of old ruinous buildings erected chiefly
during the middle ages, and which offer no interest
to the traveller. I strolled into a chapel that seemed
consecrated to Death, as all the images of the saints
were skeletons, and the ornaments entirely com-
posed of skulls piled into different shapes. Monks
366
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
of all descriptions abound in the streets; and the
lazy race, proud of their vicinity to Rome, seem to
think themselves the real aristocracy of the country.
Here an agreeable fellow-passenger, Signora Barba,
left us; she is a Spaniard, married, when she was only
thirteen, to an Italian settled at Rome, and she is now
under twenty. She had travelled alone in the dili-
gence from Madrid to Marseilles, exposed to all the
difficulties and dangers with which those roads are
infested during the present civil war in Spain; but
her gay and lively character had supported her
through all the trials of her journey, and she was
now looking forward with pleasure to the meeting
with her husband and children, after an absence of
three years, which she had just passed with her parents
at Madrid. I asked her when this state of things
in Spain would cease. Signor, mai." And she
cracked her fan, adjusted her mantilla, and burst
out a laughing. She looked the type of what Gil
Blas would have termed a nymph of Albarazin, with
a dash of Moorish blood in her veins.
(C
Here, in Cività Vecchia, is confined in prison the
famous brigand Gasparini, who has committed more
murders than any of his profession; and to show his
stern impartiality, most of his own kindred have
fallen by his hand. The papal troops were many
years in search of him without success. He was at
last only taken by capitulation, when he surrendered
himself to a priest; and it is said that he has offered
the government two millions for his own liberation,
which the Pope is undecided whether he will accept.
We quitted this post in the evening, and passed the
1839.]
367
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
town of Ostia, over which we could just discern with
a glass the cupola of St. Peter's, at Rome.
Sunday, 28th.—I rose from my hammock this
morning at four o'clock, to view the noble spectacle
of the sun rising in the horizon, amidst the isles of
Istria and Procida, through which we rapidly made
our course to Cumæ, then to the Cape of Misenum,
to Baia, where are the remains of a long bridge built
by Caligula, forming a communication with Puzzuoli.
It is difficult to describe the effect produced on the
mind by the view of places so familiar to our recol-
lection in the study of Roman history, and in the
Latin authors, confirming to the eye all the records
of the past, and impressing the mind with new
convictions of the beauties which nature had lavished
on this seat of the Roman empire.
Here along
this coast were the luxurious retreats of the illustrious
Romans, when they quitted the busy scenes of
the capital: Cicero, Pliny, Lucullus, Virgil, all
seem to revive again amidst these classical shades;
and the localities before us give a double stamp of
truth to everything we have read. On leaving the
island of Capreæ to the right, I could almost fancy
that it was still the abode of the sensual Tiberius,
with his dissolute crew, as described by Juvenal.
Our vessel advancing, Vesuvius rose before us, the
blue waters of the bay foamed under the rapid
action of the paddles, and we passed in front of the
gardens on the Chiaja, and the palace, while the
Castle of St. Elmo towers high above. Then doubling
the point at the mole, the captain gave the order,
"Arrêtez;" the wheels stopped as if by magic; and
368
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
the remaining impulse was just sufficient to carry the
vessel through the still water of the harbour to her
usual anchorage-at Naples.
At the Hotel Victoria, where, from the careless-
ness of the captain of the "Pharamond," who had left
my passports in the office at Cività Vecchia, I was
forced to wait for my servant and baggage, I found
Lord and Lady Southampton, just arrived from Cas-
tellamare, having passed two or three days there, on
a visit to Alvanley. They are on their return from
the East, and in crossing the desert they had met
with all sorts of difficulties and privations. Inde-
pendent of these, the natural accidents of such a
journey, Lord Southampton had been attacked with
small-pox of the most virulent kind, and laid on a
truckle-bed for many days in great danger, without
even being able to obtain fresh water to allay his
fever.
Monday, 29th. - Set off in a sailing boat for
Castellamare with a fine wind and weather, and
arrived, after a beautiful sail, at three o'clock. Found
my hospitable friend sitting in his large balcony sur-
rounded with shrubs, orange, lemon-trees, and the
enchantments of a Neapolitan climate, with a mag-
nificent view spread before the sight, of the bay of
Naples, Sorrento on one side, and Vesuvius on the
other. In the evening, the horses were brought after
dinner, and we rode through the shady lanes on
the mountain, returning to eat ice and grenata
in the balcony till we went to bed.
Tuesday, 30th. I rose at seven, less inconve-
nienced with the heat than I expected, during the
1839.]
369
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
night; and the refreshing prospect from the terrace,
aided by a cool breeze from the sea, and a linen
dress, proved a complete antidote to the effects of a
burning Neapolitan sun.
—
The town of Castellamare itself may be described
in the same vulgar terms as a certain town in Kent
- long, lazy, lousy Lewisham; but the situation is
beautiful close to the sea,- and when you quit the
narrow streets to ascend the mountain at the back,
which is intersected with shady groves and lanes,
forming a complete shelter from the sun, fanned
by the perfumed air from jessamine, orange, and
lemon trees, you then feel the real value of so
enchanting a spot in such a climate. Scattered
over this mountain, of which the ascent is so steep
that no carriage can attempt it, are placed numerous
country houses, with terraces overlooking the sea.
At this season they are tenanted by all the best society
of Naples, who fly from the intolerable heat of the
city, and live together on an easy and unceremonious
footing.
We dined lightly at two o'clock, as the constant
thirst checks the appetite. At five o'clock we de-
scended the mountain on horseback; and then got
into the carriage that was waiting to convey us to
Pompeii. About one third of this city has been
exhumed and laid open to public view. Though
now placed nearly four or five miles up the country,
Pompeii was formerly a sea-port town; and the road
which we travelled to reach it, is a tract of country
which the sea has since deserted: it is entirely
covered with a black coat of scoria, or meteoric dust,
VOL. III.
B B
370
[JULY,
JOURNAL OF
the produce of repeated eruptions from Vesuvius,
which promotes rather than checks fertility.
The manners of the Romans are here laid open to
inspection as if we had lived with them; and had
all their household and toilet implements which
were discovered unimpaired, and which are now pre-
served in the Museum at Naples, been left as they
were found, they would have composed the most
interesting museum that can be conceived. The
mind receives here the astonishing impression of a
nation risen from the dead, their daily life actually
passing before our eyes, and in a manner that no
history could teach or private memoirs unveil. They
are before us who were suddenly stopped by the
hand of death in the midst of their daily labours
and pleasures, surrounded by all the paraphernalia
of luxury, the attributes of their various professions,
or the circumstances of their diurnal occupations.
The storm came, but swept them not away from
the face of the earth like other men, who depart
and are seen no more, of whose private existence
the traces are gradually obliterated; here 1800 years.
elapse, and all are brought to light again, with their
habitations, their temples, their arms, and their im-
plements. Like a watch that has stopped in the
night, but still points to the hour when it ceased to
vibrate, this city is found fixed by the hand of death
in all the varied attitudes of a busied movement:
skeletons at dinner, surrounded by the fragments of
their feast; skeletons counting that gold which has
defied the hand of time, and mocks at the corruption
of its owners; skeleton judges and skeleton pri-
•
1839.]
371
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
soners in the forum; skeleton philosophers lecturing
their skeleton disciples in the halls; and skeleton
lovers still prostrate at the feet of a skeleton mistress,
in the crumbling recesses of the Ekus Gynæceus.
Wonderfully curious, the whole scene is a bitter
satire on human vanity, and the nothingness of mor-
tal existence. I have seen catacombs and cemeteries
in every part of Europe; but no repositories of the
dead can arouse such serious reflections on our own
inevitable doom as this appalling picture of a popu-
lous city suddenly buried in its volcanic grave, and
the busy inhabitants ingulphed in one common de-
struction.
On our return from Pompeii, we paid a visit to the
Countess Gourieff, wife of the Russian ambassador,
who receives every evening. We met there a few
people, among whom were Madame Guerrera (her
niece,) Prince San Giacomo, &c.
Madame Gourieff is the daughter of the beautiful
Madame Narischkin, who was the mistress of the
Emperor Alexander. She had two sisters, one of
whom was owned as his child by the Emperor, who
left her, on his death bed, by will, three million roubles,
but not to be paid to her till after the death of her
nominal father Narischkin, the Grand Veneur, and
in case of her death to go to her sisters in equal
shares. In the course of time both the sisters died d;
and at the death of Comte Narischkin, Madame
Gourieff inherited the whole of the Emperor's
bequest.
Wednesday, 31st. - Began the far-niente life of
this climate. Reading and writing in our dressing
BB 2
372
[AUG.
JOURNAL OF
gowns on the terrace till two o'clock, when we dressed
and dined; rode out at seven with Madame Guerrera
and M. and Madame Egglufstein, through the woods.
The latter is a Russian of fortune, married to a
Prussian officer without one. We went to Madame
Gourieff's, where there were a few Italians, and at
ten came home.
Thursday, August 1st. The beautiful view of
the bay was this morning enlivened by the arrival
of the Neapolitan navy, consisting of a man-of-war
and three frigates, which were manoeuvring all day
before us. The king was on board, who is very fond
of these aquatic expeditions; indeed this and the
review of his troops form his only amusement, as he
has not his father's taste for the chase or the table.
Though young, he is weak both in mind and body.
The priesthood here are ambitious, worldly, and
dissolute in the extreme, like the members of the
court of Rome. The pope is frequently intoxicated
in his own palace; and indeed his outward ap-
pearance corroborates the imputation. Louis-Phi-
lippe, who has finesse enough to turn the failings
of others to his own advantage, lately sent him, as a
present, 1000 bottles of the best champagne, and as
many of the best claret, as could be procured in
France, in order to secure his interest rather a
curious mode of propitiating a pope. The cardinals,
the monsignori, and the prelates are alike notorious
for their irregularities, though many of the lower
orders in the church, the curates and the working
clergy, are decent and regular in their lives and the
performance of their duties.
1839.]
373
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
The Duc de San Teodoro came to dine with us.
We paid a visit to Madame Obreskoff, a Russian
lady whose husband is absent, but who is staying
here with her sister and her children. The society
seems chiefly composed of Russian women who, like
Madame Pahlen, prefer an Italian sky to their own
frigid zone. We met in our ride Count Gourieff,
who is just returned from Naples; he was previously
Russian minister at the Hague, then at Rome, and
now at this court.
Alvanley mentioned an anecdote of Talleyrand :
Some one stated before him that Chateaubriand
complained he was growing deaf. Talleyrand replied,
"Il se croit sourd, parce qu'il n'entend plus parler
de lui."
Friday, 2nd. The government of this country
almost reminds me of that of Russia. It is despotic,
narrow-minded, and sordid; bribery prevails in
every department, and the king himself sets the
example. His great object is to collect money,
which he remits to foreign countries, as a resource
for the future in case of accidents.
The pro-
hibitory system is in full force here; and all the
rich produce of this country, which, if exchanged
with the manufactures of foreign states, might be-
come a source of real wealth, is sacrificed to a
narrow-minded jealousy, which forbids any sort of
traffic approaching to free trade. The duties levied
upon all imports are enormous. Alvanley re-
ceived lately a box of clothes from England: upon
each coat was exacted a duty of 50s., and a waist-
coat paid 18s., which was nearly as much as the
BB 3
374
[AUG.
JOURNAL OF
first cost; and this in a country where the cloth
is so bad that a brush will penetrate it. Some
short time ago, an Englishman of the name of
Hubbard obtained permission from the government
to work the sulphur mines in Sicily, which are in a
very neglected state. He went to England to procure
the necessary machinery, and having made his
arrangements, returned here to commence operations.
After incurring considerable expenses, he found that
during his absence a French company had sup-
planted him in all his views; they had given a bribe
to the king of 400,000 ducats, and 25,000 to the
Minister of the Interior, with other sums to the sub-
ordinates, for which they received a grant of the
monopoly for a certain number of years; and as a
means of raising this enormous outlay, a fresh tax of
two ducats per cent. was laid upon all other sul-
phur raised in the country, which amounted to a
total prohibition, and precluded all interference with
their speculation. *
To-day we had Prince San Giacomo, Marchese
Imperiali, and Marchese Gentilly at dinner, gentle-
manlike agreeable men, and very pleasing specimens
of good Italian society. They eat very little, and
seem to have a horror of a great dinner: in compli-
ance with their habits, only one dish of meat was
served; the rest consisted of fish, vegetables, and light
aliments, which the Italians cook with much talent.
As to wine, one bottle of champagne seemed to
* This circumstance was taken up in the following year by our
government, and very nearly provoked a war with Naples for what
has been called the sulphur question.
1839.]
375
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
suffice for the whole party, though the iced water
was drank in abundance. We all rode out in the
woods, joined by the ladies with Count Gourieff and
M. Casimir Perrier, the French minister, who is
now returned from Naples to Castellamare, where he
also has a residence for the summer. We then ad-
journed to Madame Gourieff's terrace, where we found
M. and Madame Kutusof, a very pretty woman,
the daughter of M. de Ribeaupierre, so long at Con-
stantinople as Russian ambassador.
Saturday, 3rd.-The morals of the modern Neapo-
litans are much improved; the old custom of cicisbei
is generally exploded, and the marriages of the pre-
sent generation are regular and domestic. Some
instances are still found in society of the former sys-
tem; but when they have ceased, no vestige of the
fashion will remain. In former days the domestic
union of a new-married couple never lasted more
than two or three years at the utmost. A cicisbeo
was then selected for the lady, who from that hour
was devoted to her service, and attended her to all
public places or visits in society-she was never seen
without him,— while her husband was occupied with
his own pursuits; but as the cicisbeo generally lived
in the house and formed part of the family, care was
taken in the choice to consult the wishes and com-
fort of the husband, by adopting one who was most
agreeable to him. The chief communication from
hence with Naples is by water, across the bay, as
the road by land is long and dusty, studded with
houses, and passing through the towns of Torre del
Greco, and Torre dell' Annunziata, near which the
BB 4
376
[AUG.
JOURNAL OF
whole country has been laid waste by streams of lava
during the eruption of 1794. There is a small steam-
boat on this station; and little barks are constantly
sailing backwards and forwards, which bring passen-
gers, letters, and news at all hours.
Sunday, 4th. We had to-day at dinner M.
Casimir Perrier, M. and Madame Guerrera, M. and
Madame Uxkhühl: he is a Russian, married to a
Wallachian lady, daughter of the Prince Ghica,
formerly hospodar of that province; she is a singular
woman, lively and unceremonious, talks incessantly,
and is rather gaudily dressed. We rode out in the
evening, a caravan of near thirty on horses and
asses, in the woods, to Monte Copolo, then to Ma-
dame Gourieff's, whose terrace was filled with the
families Ludolf, Razamowsky, and a number of Nea-
politans.
Monday, 5th. At a great dinner to-day at the
Duc de San Teodoro. I could not help remarking
the variety of nations assembled round his table:
himself and the Prince Dentici, Neapolitans; Casimir
Perrier, and M. and Madame Foy, French; Alvanley
and myself, English; Guerrera, Portuguese; Madame
Uxkhühl, Wallachian; Uxkhühl and Madame Guer-
rera, Russian. M. Foy is the son of the late General
Foy.
There are strong reports that the Russians have
landed 18,000 men at Constantinople. Gourieff
seemed to deny the fact, but not the probability
of it.
A M. Behr, who is considered as a gettatore, lodges
in the house where we dined; and I observed that
1839.]
377
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
San Teodoro's children were all furnished with
charms or amulets against his sinister influence
(Behr is a man of sense himself, and laughs at the
prejudice; but it must be secretly the cause of much
annoyance to him). He is supposed to be the cause
that San Giacomo's horse broke his knees lately;
even some deaths have been laid to his door. The
late king, when any gettatori among his guards were
on duty at the palace, could never be induced to
go out.
Tuesday, 6th.—We dined to-day with M. Casimir
Perrier, and met nearly the same party.
Wednesday, 7th. We were in the steamboat at
seven o'clock in the morning, and proceeded to
Naples. Having ordered breakfast at the Hôtel, we
drove first along the Chiaja to the Grotto of Pausi-
lippo, which is a road cut through the solid rock as a
tunnel near three quarters of a mile long, and lighted
with lamps. It is not known by whom this work
was achieved. On the eminence above, and just over
the mouth of this grotto, is the tomb of Virgil, which
commands an extensive view of the Bay of Naples.
We went to call on the Duchesse de Gontaut, with
whom are staying the Duc and Duchesse de Rohan
with their children, and the Marquise de Jumilhac.
After breakfast we went to the Museum, where all
the curious objects obtained by the researches at
Herculaneum and Pompeii are preserved. The first
great hall contains the fresco paintings found in the
latter city, which are ranged in order. Some of these
are beautifully executed, and represent various clas-
sical subjects, as well as scenes in the domestic lives
378
[AUG.
JOURNAL OF
of the Romans, their theatres and places of amuse-
ment.
On passing the great prison, we saw the skulls of
Massaniello and his seven followers, which are still
exposed to public view on the outer wall.
At five o'clock we left Naples in a carriage, and
proceeded through Portici, which has been built
over the site of Herculaneum. We thence came to
Torre del Greco and Torre dell' Annunziata, and
reached Castellamare at seven o'clock.
The palace of the king at Portici stands in the
centre of the town; and the high road passes through
its principal court. It seems an extraordinary infa-
tuation that this town should have been built so
near the crater of Vesuvius, and on the very spot
where another had been previously destroyed by the
eruption, which might have served as a lesson.
Almost all the road from Naples hither is bounded.
on each side by beautiful villas, for the most part
now neglected, which command noble views of the
sea from their terraces and gardens, and were the
summer residences of the great families. On the
right, beyond Portici, is a small lane which leads to
the steps conducting underground to Herculaneum ;
here at the depth of sixty or seventy feet the air is
damp and unwholesome. It is supposed that the in-
habitants had notice of the approaching ruin, and
had time to save most of their portable valuables and
their own lives, as few skeletons have been found;
but great treasures of art in statuary and architecture
are still buried here, the town being of considerable
importance, and the seat of a consul; witness the
1839.]
379
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
statue of Balbus found there. Great difficulties
attend these excavations.
Thursday, 8th.-This morning the Marquis de
Jumilhac arrived from Naples; he dined with us, and
Mr. Roskelly, Mr. Sullivan and Uxkhühl. In the
evening we rode as usual, and went to Madame
Gourieff's.
Friday, 9th.-Jumilhac dined with us; and we
three spent the whole evening at Pompeii, looking
over the details of this most wonderful relic, which
fills the mind with a train of ideas so novel, and so
interesting, that it is difficult to quit it.
Sunday, 11th.-We rose at six, breakfasted at
seven, and being joined by Count d'Egglufstein, we
got into a boat, and after three hours' sail, arrived
at the island of Capri, formerly Capreæ, the retreat
of the Emperor Tiberius, in which he gave himself
up to the indulgence of sensuality and cruelty.
There is a small town on the hill, with a few
fishermen's huts on the beach beneath.
The chief
We then
curiosity here is the azure grotto.
the azure grotto.
sailed back to Campanella, the extreme point of
the mainland which forms the bay of Salerno, where
mules were ready to convey us over the mountain to
Sorrento. Two hours along a dry desolate country,
adorned with myrtles and sweet-smelling plants,
brought us, through some scattered villages, to a
region the most fertile in Italy, which lets for 81.
English per acre. Here are forests of orange and
lemon trees loaded with fruit, and olive trees which
produce the finest oil in Europe. This tract of
country leads to Sorrentum, a capacious town, which
380
[AUG.
JOURNAL OF
attests still, by the remains of its fortifications, that
it must have been a considerable fortress. The
streets are very narrow; but vast gardens are con-
tained within the walls, and from the house of Sir
Edward Dering, where we dined, the view, both
of land and sea, is unrivalled. We met here Mr.
and Mrs. Barwell, and Lady Caroline Greville, who
are settled here for the summer; indeed English are
to be seen everywhere. After dinner we got into our
bark, and rowed home, passing through a curious
grotto formed by rocks in the sea, near to Vico.
Monday, 12th. It is singular to observe the
similarity which appears between the shops of the
present day in Naples and those in the streets
of Pompeii — being small square rooms with fold-
ing doors in front, which serve the double purpose
of window and entrance. The houses are generally
built without chimneys even at Naples; and as
the climate in winter is really at times very cold,
cloaks and mantles in the house, or even a retreat
to bed, are the usual resources of the Neapolitans
in default of fires. Under this luxurious climate
and almost spontaneous vegetation, there is no good
fruit, though cheap and abundant; all is gathered
from the tree before it is ripe, from an over eager-
ness in the proprietor to bring it to market. The
prison system in Naples is wretchedly conducted.
Delinquents of all sorts are confined promiscuously
together, and guarded by sentinels; their barred
windows look into the public streets; and there
they are constantly to be seen in crowds gazing on
those who walk about at liberty. Trials are de-
1839.]
381
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
layed; justice is slowly administered; and at length
the prisoners (some perhaps innocent), worn out and
irritated by a confinement which seems to have no
termination either in judgment or acquittal, become
fractious, unruly, and rebellious. The prison then.
resounds with cries of vengeance; and the timid
government permits the sentinels to fire at random
into the riotous ranks, till order is restored by the
shedding of blood. The harbour of Naples resembles
a bagne at Toulon or Brest; convicts are everywhere
seen, chained to each other, and labouring at the
public works.
A young Englishman, Mr. Cochrane, dined with us.
He has been a great traveller, and amused us much
with his account of his journey over the Pampas on
horseback, where he followed the steps of Captain
Head. His accounts of Mendoza and the other cities
in South America were curious, as well as the con-
duct of the missionaries in Otaheite, where he had
also been.
Thursday, 15th. The fête of the Annunciation,
celebrated along the coast of the bay by beating of
bells and letting off petards in the streets: here they
do not ring the bells; but a man in the steeple
hammers upon them, producing a sound like a smith's
anvil, which stuns the ears. The day was remark-
ably hot, as the usual sea breeze had deserted us.
Friday, 16th.—The hottest day that we have had
since my arrival; the sea, like glass, seems to reflect
the rays of the sun, and increases the glare. Perfect
idleness, and a book, are the only resource.
Kutusof, his brother-in-law Ribeaupierre, and Fres-
M.
382
[AUG.
JOURNAL OF
sari dined with us; the latter gave us some interest-
ing accounts of the government.
Monday, 19th.-The Duc de Rohan and his son.
the Prince de Léon, and M. de Jumilhac came from
Naples to dine with us.
This calm and picturesque retreat of Castellamare
is still the noisiest place I ever inhabited: the bells
are in constant motion, not rung but hammered;
petards and fusées are let off in the street daily in
commemoration of some saint; the ass-drivers make
every corner resound with their shrill cries: add to
this their discordant singing during the whole night,
with a parrot at the next house, and a young Ger-
man who begins his gamut on the violin every morn-
ing at four o'clock.
Tuesday, 20th.-We dined with Count and Coun-
tess d'Egglufstein and MM. San Teodoro and Imperi-
ali; rode afterwards on the seashore, and went at night
to Casimir Perrier's ball. The whole house was
adorned with garlands of flowers; the terrace was
made into a tent with an orchestra, with the band of
the Neapolitan guard; and the garden illuminated
with variegated lamps; and the company, consisting
of all that I have already mentioned, with many
more from Naples, were well dressed, and danced
till four in the morning. The Neapolitans are a
very agreeable race, very well bred, and very oblig-
ing. The prettiest woman was countess Kutusof.
On Sunday two priests officiated at mass in one
of the churches at Naples, uncle and nephew; when
they returned home the uncle was killed by the
nephew, who stabbed him in fourteen places. The
1839.]
383
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
cause of this murder was jealousy of a woman.
By
the laws here, no priest can be punished with death,
as the pope has exacted that condition of the govern-
ment. A few days before, another murder was com-
mitted in the barracks at Naples; a colonel was shot
by a private, on the parade, because he had sentenced
him to the punishment of the gauntlet. He was a
very severe officer, and much disliked. A few years
ago an English gentleman of fortune, Mr. Hunt,
with his wife, went to stay a few days at Pæstum, to
see the curiosities; they stayed at the inn, where his
servant displayed on his table the contents of a silver
gilt dressing case, which excited the cupidity of the
host, who, while they were out, collected two or
three friends, met them on their return in their car-
riage, and shot them both, the same ball going
through his body into Mrs. Hunt's breast. They
had been lately married.
Wednesday, 21st. - For the first time we had a
little rain.
Thursday, 22nd.-We dined with Count and
Countess Uxkhühl, and in the evening rode along the
seashore as far as the castle of Rovellano, which is
built on a rock in the sea, and is now used as a
magazine for gunpowder.
Friday, 23rd. -- The weather is become cooler;
and we therefore rode out at four o'clock to Pompeii,
where is always something new to observe; we rode
over the arena of the amphitheatre, and through the
private passages to the seats; looked into the dens
reserved for the wild beasts, where the skeleton of a
lion was found in a cage; but what struck me most
384
[AUG.
JOURNAL OF
to-day was, the bird's-eye view of the town from a
short distance, which gives you a clear idea of what
the ground was before the exhumation, viz., a great
mount covered with shrubs, and every interstice
of the buildings filled with earth. The sand of the
seashore, and the dust of the roads in all this region,
are quite black from the various eruptions. We rode
home through a village called Scaffata, which is
traversed by the river Sarno. The seasons here are
most distinct; autumn is begun, the days are shorter,
and this was like an evening in the month of Sep-
tember in England. There are no little birds to be
seen here in the woods or in the lanes; you never
hear a nightingale at night, or see a robin in the day.
The people eat all their uccelli, and pursue them
with so much vigour that the race is nearly extinct.
Saturday, 24th.-This evening the Duc de San
Teodoro gave a water-party on the bay, to see the
coast by moonlight; fruits and ices were served in
the boat. The fish at Naples is very plentiful; but
the best in my opinion are the common sorts
the soles, the small dorees, and little fry of red mullets
(like our white bait, but much better). The large fish,
preferred by the natives, are called pesci nobili, and,
after their own nobility, are named Dentici and Spi-
nola; they are woolly and bad eating.
This place was formerly called Stabiæ by the
Romans, where were several fine villas, built on
account of the beautiful prospect. Pliny the elder ex-
pired here during the eruption at Pompeii. He was
subject to asthma; and the air, even at this distance,
charged with sulphuric vapour suffocated him.
.
1839.]
385
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
The whole of this country is infested with beggars;
the traveller is followed by relays of them, who make
the most horrid groans, to excite compassion.
Monday, 26th. We set off for La Cava, which
is about sixteen miles distant, and arrived there at
four o'clock.
We met at the inn Mr. Armitt, who is staying
there with his children. We dined with him and
his friend C. Bowen; and in the evening we walked
to see the Convent of the Trinity, which is situ-
ated on the mountain at a great height, with a
river flowing in a ravine below: the situation is
wonderfully striking. Here the monks live, under
the direction of their abbot, in a pleasing retirement,
surrounded by every comfort, in an excellent house,
and possessing an income of 80,000 frs. a year.
Foreigners sometimes board and lodge with them at
so much per month, and have the enjoyment of their
library. This library contains some very scarce and
curious manuscripts, among which are shown a
bible of the 8th century, beautifully written and
illuminated, also a code of laws of Charlemagne,
with pictures and the account of the six days of the
creation, &c. &c.
There is a church attached to this monastery,
which has little to show save two Phrygian columns
of marble, and the rock on which it is built, at
the back protruding through the walls and forming
part of the edifice. La Cava is a pretty town,
has porticoes on each side of the High Street like
those at Berne or Bologna, and is situated in a beau-
tiful country.
VOL. III.
C C
386
[AUG.
JOURNAL OF
Tuesday, 27th.-We mounted our carriage at
six o'clock this morning; and passing through the
town of Vietri, built on the side of a mountain with
a fine sea view, we came to Salerno, formerly Sa-
lernum, built by the Romans, which was on the
heights; but the present city is on the seashore.
This modern town is embosomed in the Gulf of
Salerno, and seated in a valley encompassed by bold,
fertile, and picturesque mountains. It has sixteen
churches besides the cathedral, and a considerable
number of monastic institutions.
We proceeded on our journey to Pæstum, which
is situated on a long marshy plain supposed to be
very unwholesome from its malaria. A village only
now remains; but Pæstum was formerly a large
town, as the ruins and one remaining gate now attest.
Here we visited the Temple of Ceres and the Temple
of Neptune, the most majestic, and apparently the
most ancient, here or in any other part of Europe.
It was built, according to the received opinion, by
the Phrygians; there are thirty-six columns of the
Grecian Doric order. In this wild spot is much
game, as well as foxes, and some wolves.
Wednesday, 28th.-Mounted our horses at eight
o'clock, and set out for Amalfi, of which the situa-
tion baffles description: it is of very ancient exist-
ence, and boasts not only of a copy of Justinian's
Pandects having been found here, but also of
the improvement, almost amounting to the dis-
covery, of the mariner's compass, made in 1302 by
Flavio Gisia, a citizen. The cathedral is a spacious
1839.]
387
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
handsome edifice, dedicated to St. Andrew, standing
on the site of an ancient heathen temple. The hotel
is a suppressed Capuchin convent.
Here a bark with six oars awaited us, and we
returned by water, enjoying the most magnificent
view of the mountainous tracts we had passed on
horseback, until Vietri, where we saw the continua-
tion of the Bay of Salerno, the Gulf of Policastra,
and the Cape of Palinurus, called after the pilot
whose death Virgil describes in the Æneid.
Thursday, 29th. We left La Cava for Naples,
and passing through Scaffata, Torre dell Annunziatas
Torre dell Greco, came to Portici, where we stopped
to see Herculaneum. The country is covered with
crops of flax, Indian corn, and palma christi. It is
the fashion for the nobility to pass a month or six
weeks at Portici, in October or November; no one
knows why, as the distance from Naples is only
three miles, and it is not a whit more rural. It is
supposed that much treasure, both in works of art
and golden ornaments, would be found, if the ex-
cavations were continued at Herculaneum, but the
government fear the expense itself, and will not
allow others to undertake it. We came to Naples to
dinner, and in the evening drove on the Chiaja up
to the point from whence, turning our back to the
Bay of Naples, we get a view of the Bay of Baix,
Island of Nisida, Cape and Port of Mysenum, where
the Roman galleys formerly were kept, and all the
coast so celebrated by Virgil in his Æneid.
Virgil's tomb gave birth to the following beautiful
C C 2
388
[AUG.
JOURNAL OF
lines. Their author was asked whether he would
prefer fame during life or after death: -
"6
Virgilia ad tumulum divini præmia vatis,
Extendit viridem laurea densa comam.
Quid tibi defuncto hæc prosit? felicior olim
Sub patulæ fagi tegmine vivus erat.”
We afterwards paid a visit to Lady Coventry,
who spends the autumn here, the winter at Rome,
and the summer at Albano.
Friday, 30th. We were so bit with the mos-
quitoes during the night that not a wink of sleep
could either of us get. We therefore changed this
morning from the Hotel Victoria to the Hotel de la
Grande Bretagne. After breakfast we took a drive
round the town, passing through the Strada Nuova,
and then the exotic garden of Signor Ricciardi, the
Royal Palace and Lady Drummond's Villa. We
afterwards walked on the Toledo Street, which is
the general resort of the fashionable world. At
five o'clock we went to dine with Prince Dentici,
who gave us an Italian dinner, and very good of its
kind. There were there Duc de St. Angiolo, Count
Gourieff, Casimir Perrier, Prince Pignatelli, Count
Lebezeltern, the Austrian minister, Uxkhühl, Foy,
Guerrera, and two or three others.
In the evening we went to the Duchesse de Gon-
taut, where we found Madame de Jumilhac and her
son, Duc and Duchesse de Rohan, and their son and
daughters.
I saw this morning a field day of the Neapolitan
troops all very fine handsome men, and well ac-
:
1839.]
389
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
coutred; it is difficult to account for their reputation
in Europe of being cowards. We passed the palace
of the Queen Dowager, who has been married to a
Neapolitan nobleman, in order to repress her in-
trigues. It was mentioned at dinner that a young
Zichy had shot himself at Vienna from jealousy. The
story is a very sad one.
*
*
*
*
Saturday, 31st. I returned to the Stadei or Mu-
seum to see the bronze sculptures, which are very
interesting. To the church of St. Dominique, the
Capella di San Severo, and the cathedral called La
Chiesa di San Gennario.
We dined to-day with Lady Coventry, and met
Prince Carriati and Mr. Aubin; there we passed the
evening.
Lady Coventry has a magnificent palazzo, with an
immense suite of rooms, a garden, and two long
terraces overlooking the whole town of Naples.
Sunday, September 1st. We went this morning
through the Grotto of Pausilippo, to visit Puteoli,
in the Bay of Baiæ. The mole or breakwater,
built by the Greeks and repaired by Adrian and
Antoninus Pius, still retains thirteen arches out of
twenty-five. To this mole Caligula attached his
enormous bridge of boats, reaching to Baia: and sate
there in state to review his galleys; he then crossed
his bridge to the land of Baiæ, and from the Temple
of Venus on the sea-shore viewed a sea-fight, in
which 13,000 men were killed for his day's amuse-
ment: as these victims, who were chiefly gladiators
selected for the purpose, passed before him, they
CC 3
390
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
"* Further
exclaimed, "Morituri te salutamus Cæsar."
to the right was the Lake of Avernus, the Cave of
the Sybil at Cumaa, and all the country sung by
Virgil. Here was the Villa of Cicero built on the
plan of the Academy of Athens - then so close to
the sea-shore, that the Roman Senator might have
fished from his own terraces; and the Villa of Cæsar,
where died young Marcellus, supposed to be poisoned
by Livia.
"Nullus in orbe sinus Baiis
prælucet amoenis.”
The Lucrine lake and Avernus were overthrown by
the earthquake in 1538, which has much altered the
mythological and Virgilian aspect of these places.
We went this evening for half an hour to the San
Carlo, to view this superb theatre: the singing was
detestable.
Monday, 2nd.-Mr. Behr, the gettatore, came to
breakfast with us: he is very well informed on all
subjects, and gave us some interesting details of
this country. The king is a bigot, has no taste for
any amusements but that of manoeuvring his troops,
of whom he keeps 60,000; they are well dressed for
show, but ill-fed and worse paid; they are harassed
with constant promenades, and have the mortification
to see 8000 Swiss guards, kept up at double pay and
triple nourishment, with a court of justice for them-
selves. The king's ruling passion is money: he has
remitted large sums to England, in case of a revo-
lution here. He sends his hoards to England, where
* Suetonius.
1839.]
391
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
secure.
he thinks his property will be less exposed to a
catastrophe; instead of affording his own country
liberal institutions, where his money would then be
The example set by the king is followed
by his ministers, by the public contractors and func-
tionaries. The Prince of Salerno, his uncle, Behr
mentions as a worthy man in many respects, but
ruined by his extravagance.
The country is ruled by the Code Napoléon, as its
law on common occasions; but the power of the
king is despotic, the police rigid, and throughout the
country the yoke is grievous; the law, therefore,
here is literally of no use. The ambassadors are
miserably paid, and the Duke de Serra Capriola has
just been appointed minister to France, with a
salary of 80,000 frs. which, as he is a ruined man
himself, will hardly maintain him there. The troops
have always conducted themselves so ill in the field,
that they have a general reputation for cowardice; but
Behr says, that they are disheartened by bad treat-
ment, and though personally as brave as other men,
prefer, when brought into the field, to run away,
and become brigands in the mountains, rather than
fight for their country. I was surprised to find
that Murat had not corrected the military abuses; he
could make nothing of the men. Many of the noble
families have immense estates in this fertile country,
though so wretchedly managed, that they are them-
selves in a state of comparative poverty. All are dis-
contented with the government, and are kept under
by fear, not only of the armed force, but of Austrian
interference, which they have already experienced.
CC 4
392
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF ♦
As a little proof of the king's proceedings here: on
making out the inventory of his private property, he
included in it the Royal Palace, which is of great
value; it was afterwards nearly burnt down, when he
altered his note, and claimed the amount of the
repairs from the state, as public property.
We went this morning to the Museum, having an
order to see the camera reservata, which is highly
curious.
At the pictures at the Museum we gave a
cursory look, but they are neither interesting nor
valuable. At nine o'clock we quitted Naples. As his
Sicilian Majesty has kept up the warlike custom of
shutting the gates of Capua during these times of
peace at nine in the evening, it was necessary to obtain
a permission from the governor to pass through this
town at night; the Duc San Teodoro requested the
minister of war to give us one: and the said
minister verbally assured Alvanley, last night, that
he had written the necessary orders on the preceding
day to the commandant.
We therefore proceeded
without anxiety to the place, but having once gained
admittance, we found that the governor had no orders
and refused to let us go out of the town; we there-
fore were obliged to stop at a miserable inn for
three hours, till it was light, when we resumed our
journey. Capua is a dirty, but strongly fortified
town: it gave me little idea of that luxurious city,
which enervated the army of Hannibal, and caused
his retreat back to Carthage.*
*The republic of Capua was treated with unheard-of barbarity by
the Romans; the senators were beheaded, and the inhabitants sold
1839.]
393
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
We proceeded to Garzliano, where there is a sus-
pension bridge lately erected over that river, and
beyond, the remains of a fine aqueduct. We
arrived at Mola to breakfast: it stands on a beautiful
situation on the Bay of Gaeta, with a picturesque
view of that town on a promontory before us. This
inn, which was formerly the palace of a Neapolitan
noble, stands, it is said, on the spot where Cicero's
favourite villa, the Formia, was built; but it was more
probably a little further on, where some ruins are
still visible, and would prove the great beauty of the
spot selected by him. There is a terrace, which looks
down on the groves of orange, lemon, and myrtle trees
bounded by the sea, and commanding an extensive
view of land and ocean. To the right may be seen.
the beach, by which he attempted to escape in his
litter; but when he turned off towards the mountains,
meaning to fly to Minturnæ, where he had many
friends, he was overtaken by Popilius the centurion,
and murdered by order of the Triumviri. This
Popilius was a man whose interests Cicero had de-
fended formerly in a great lawsuit, and gained his
cause by his eloquence. The remains of a splendid
monument, erected by his freedmen to the memory
of Cicero near the spot where he fell, forms still a
striking object very near the high road.
At one
o'clock we arrived at Terracina, and found ourselves
in the Pope's territories; the chief street has a long
colonnade. The road from hence is a straight line for
several miles, lined with rows of trees on each side :
as slaves. The mild Cicero even approved of these horrors, which
he attributes" non crudelitati sed consilio."— Author's note.
394
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
it is very level, and has for its foundation the old
Via Appia from Rome; a canal flows by the side,
which was probably supplied with water from the
remnants of that lake or canal on which Horace
embarked for his amusing journey to Brundusium,
as its situation is the same. We then came to Itre,
called by Horace urbs Mumurrarum, where he
lodged with Murena and supped with Capito.
"Murena præbente domum, Capitone culinam."
During twenty miles we travelled through the Pon-
tine Marshes, known for their insalubrity; and though
we were there before sunset, and took the precaution
not to sleep, my companion soon afterwards felt a
headache, and by the time we arrived at Albano was
in a state of considerable fever. Though only eleven
o'clock, all at the inn were gone to rest; but we got
him to bed, gave him doses of James's powder, and
have taken up our quarters here till his recovery.
It is a curious effect of this atmosphere, which no
attempts at draining these marshes have ever been
able to counteract: but as these examples on tra-
vellers are not very frequent, there is no doubt that
our friends in Naples when they hear of our mishap,
will impute it all to the evil influence of poor Behr,
the gettatore, who had dined with us before our de-
parture. On one occasion, the other day in Naples,
Behr was introduced by a friend at some house
where there were private theatricals: all who saw
him looked at each other, and seemed impressed
with the conviction that some evil would happen ;
scarce had two hours elapsed, when the great lustre
1839.]
395
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
in the middle of the drawing room fell down with a
crash, and was shivered to atoms. Not a soul went
away that evening without the firm conviction, that
the presence of poor Behr had caused this accident.
He is a natural son of the Prince Anghri.
Along this road are seen at every interval guard-
houses, and sentry-boxes, which were formerly used
to repress the brigands, as it was here that so many
robberies and murders were committed, and travellers.
exposed to so much danger; but in 1826 large bodies
of troops were sent from Rome and from Naples, in
order to surround and exterminate these hordes, and
the capitulation of Gasparoni almost entirely put a
stop to the system.
—
Wednesday, 4th. In addition to our crosses,
Alvanley's valet was taken ill this morning, and he
himself remains with much fever; we are therefore
doomed to linger here, only fourteen miles from Rome.
This inn was seven years ago the country-seat of the
King of Spain, Charles IV. and his family, during
their stay at Rome; the house is large, painted in
fresque, and the garden, with its terraces, cascades,
and fountains, has a royal appearance. Albano is
the Villegiatura (summer retreat) of the Romans.
Its two ruins, the tomb of Ascanius, founder of Alba
Longa, and the tomb of the Horatii and Curiatii, must
have been magnificent mausoleums.
Thursday, 5th. We left Albano, and proceeded
forwards to Rome. We approached this wonderful
city, along the new Appian Road, which is laid upon
the old Via Appia. On all sides of the Campagna are
seen the long ranges of aqueducts, broken indeed at
396
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
intervals, but still grand and sublime in their graceful
architecture; decayed monuments erected to the
memory of the dead, ruinous castles, and crumbling
fabrics, of which history has left no details; while in
front are the spires of Rome, among which the lofty
dome of St. Peter's is proudly preeminent. In the
distance are seen Frascati, Tivoli, the great Apen-
nine Mountains, and Soracte, not as Horace repre-
sented it,
"Cum nive candidum,"
but in its summer garb of verdure. The gate of
Rome is still the same gate, and the wall (though
much altered) the same wall, as in the time of
the Cæsars. But as the carriage winds slowly on
through narrow streets with modern houses on
each side of a mean description, the disappoint-
ment is for the first few minutes indescribable.
A momentary vexation: in another instant the
stupendous Coliseum, with its grand and massive
architecture, appears in sight, and the remains of
the fountain, where the wearied gladiators who had
survived the combat, were wont to bathe their
bleeding limbs. From thence wonders at each
instant succeeded each other, the arches of Titus,
of Trajan, the Forum, the ruins of the Palace of the
Cæsars, the Egyptian Columns; at every step some-
thing magnificent meets the eye.
While dinner was preparing at the inn called
les Iles Britanniques, which is deservedly reckoned
the best in Europe, I walked out and mounted the
ascent of the Pincio, a public promenade command-
1839.]
397
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
ing a full view of the city, where people in carriages
and on foot are constantly taking the air at this
hour. A moment's view of Rome is sufficient to
show the predominant Power here: every third
person you meet is a priest or a monk. As Peters-
burg and Berlin swarm with uniforms, so does
Rome swarm with the clerical habit. I met a se-
minary of boys, walking two by two, like the élèves
of the Polytechnique at Paris; but instead of
the military frock, these were all in black. Various
carriages passed me in the street, some with parties.
of ladies, but in all the well-fed priest had found
admittance. The red coaches belonging to the
Pope, with three footmen behind, contained the
ministers of state or of the household; these were
all priests: there were the carriages of the cardinals
drawn by black horses with plumes of feathers, and
two footmen behind holding the red umbrella: the
monsignori, with their silk mantles and their red
stockings; some of them young and good-looking,
with handsome legs and neat shoes, of which they
seemed to know the value. Instead of the tame
suspicious air of the priests who are to be met in the
ungodly streets of Paris, here the clergy walk tête
levée, secure of their own importance, full of their
own dignity, and conscious of their power to sup-
port it.
This is the present aristocracy of Rome;
the old Roman families are nearly extinct: the
Corsini, the Orsini, the Frangipani, are names
known in history, but have now no influence in the
state: monkish foreigners hold all the sway, and
enjoy all the offices of emolument, and, though some
398
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
few Romans yet enjoy a certain consideration, they
owe it not to their genealogy, but to their eccle-
siastical rank; precisely as the Russian nobles owe
theirs to military rank. The progress of civilisation
and general intercourse, which has, during the last
twenty years of peace, tended so much to assimilate
all countries to each other, that distinctive national
traits are gradually vanishing in Europe, has left this
extraordinary city different from any other. The
hierarchical constitution of the Papal States is so
unbending and exclusive, that as long as it exists,
Rome must stand alone in the world a solitary phe-
nomenon.
We went out this morning to take a drive.
"Vidimus flavum Tiberim,” which we passed by
the Ponte Elio, and yellow enough it was to justify
Horace in his epithet.
-
Friday, 6th, and Saturday, 7th. We began our
inspection of the innumerable and magnificent works
of art in Rome, with St. Peter's,—that mass of pre-
cious marbles, paintings, mosaic, splendid sculpture,
and vast designs. From hence we drove to the
Fontana Paolina, through the Via Sacra, surrounded
by those relics of ancient history that have been too
often described to need repetition; stopping to ob-
serve a beautiful little Temple of Vesta, passing by
Trajan's Pillars and his Forum, and viewing the
Campidoglio, the Tarpeian Rock, the Mausoleum,
erected by the wife of Augustus called the Colum-
bario; the Fountain of Egeria, the Tomb of Cecilia
Metella, &c.
Then entering the town again by the Arch of
1839.]
399
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
Drusus, we came to the Baths of Caracalla, and
having passed through the Arch of Constantine, ar-
rived at the Coliseum. The cupola of this building,
which has long been the wonder of the world, has
fulfilled the idea of Bramante, who aspired to erect
the highest ever known; it is from the pavement
to the highest extremity 616 hands high, and the
diameter 190.
To modern ideas it must appear incredible that
such monstrous edifices as these relics of Rome's
former grandeur now present to our view, should ever
have been accomplished by man; but we are not to
form our opinions by the mode of building in these
days, with architects, paid labourers, and expensive
materials. In Rome whole armies of slaves and pri-
soners were kept at work till they died, a scanty nour-
ishment for each was all the expense for labour, and
marbles were brought from Egypt, Mount Athos,
and other places with little trouble, while Italy itself
produced it in abundance. Titus employed his
Jewish prisoners in building the Coliseum, a milder
fate than they suffered under Nero. The Romans
conquered all the world, and made all the world
work for them.
Sunday, 8th. This morning at ten o'clock the
Pope was to celebrate a High Mass at the church
of Sta. Maria del Popolo, opposite to our windows;
and the square assumed early a busy appearance; a
large awning was erected in front of the great door,
and the troops were drawn up, both horse and foot,
with bands of music, to celebrate his arrival.
At half past nine the Cardinals began to arrive,
00
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
each in his state carriage with the footmen in laced
liveries, and another following with his attendants.
They entered the church to wait for their master;
at ten o'clock the ringing of bells and sounds of
music announced that the Pope was coming down
the Corso; first were detachments of the carabiniers,
then of the garde noble, then footmen and priests;
the cross-bearer, mounted on a white mule, preceded
a state coach of his Holiness, which was covered with
crimson velvet, adorned with gilt ornaments, and
the roof and carriage gilt and carved; it was drawn
by six horses, with two postilions in long robes of
crimson damask, red boots, and the hair powdered,
hanging on their shoulders, which were uncovered.
In the middle sat the Pope himself, in a white robe
embroidered with gold, and the mitre on his head,
dispensing his blessing with an uplifted finger to all
around—he was followed by another gilt carriage
with six horses, containing his ecclesiastical suite;
both these carriages were surrounded by the Swiss
guards, dressed in the old costume of doublet and
hose, striped red, black, and yellow, with round hats
and plumes, bearing the halberds.
The Pope is an old man, tall and stout, but his
countenance is not very prepossessing, nor his aspect
dignified.
In an opposite chair was another priest in a mitre
also, who I found was the Bishop of Rome; he also
officiated at the altar. When the ceremony was
over, his Holiness retired in the same state in which
he had come.
A very curious sight was the old dresses, liveries,
1839.]
401
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
and forms, which have been preserved intact for so
many hundred years without innovation. The mag-
nificence of other courts has dwindled away, and
been modernised according to the times; but here
is the old Court of Rome on days of gala showing
the same pompous exterior, the same dress, the same.
customs as existed in the time when Charles V. and
Francis I. trembled under the fear of excommuni-
cation.
I was surprised to observe no crowd in the streets,
not above fifty people were assembled to see the
procession; and the church, which was open to all,
was by no means filled, except with the actors in the
ceremony who, were indeed very numerous. But the
Italians are not an inquisitive people; several of our
acquaintances at Naples had never seen Pompeii; and
though the Pope certainly does not appear often in
public, except in the Holy Week, his subjects seemed
to show very little anxiety to gain a sight of his
person or to share in his benedictions. The march of
progress only goes one way, and the spirit of inno-
vation makes war against every thing, good or bad,
which bears the sanction of time.
This morning we began by driving through the
grounds of the Villa Borghese, which are just with-
out the walls, and laid out with much taste; they
are ornamented with fine timber, and have a park-
like appearance.
There have been shown some in-
stances of bad taste in erecting two sham Egyptian
obelisks, and some imitations of ruinous temples,
likely to offer no great interest anywhere, but here,
VOL. III.
D D
402
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
where the realities appear in such profusion, only
ridiculous.
The casino in these grounds, which contains a
splendid collection of marbles, was not to be seen,
as the guardians were asleep, and must be deferred
to another visit. All over Italy the siesta is general;
they dine at one o'clock, then shut up their shops,
and go to bed till four, and no human effort can
wake them.
We drove round the city outside the walls to
the San Giovanni Gate, nearly the same as it was
in the old time of Honorius, and fifty feet high;
previous to that time Rome, in her prosperity, had
no walls.
We went, after visiting the church of San Gio-
vanni Laterano, to the Vigna Palatina, a delightful
residence occupied by Mr. Mills, which stands on
the site of a part of the palace of the Cæsars: he
bought it in 1818, from the Coloccei family, and it
may be called the most interesting situation in Rome,
from the views which it commands and the classical
remembrance of the ground.
Monday, 9th. We began our researches this
morning at nine o'clock; passing the finest of all
the fountains in Rome, numerous as they are, the
Fontana de Trevi, which is supplied by the Acqua
Virgine, famous for its purity, and brought to Rome
by Agrippa, a distance of eight miles, for the service
of his baths. We saw the Farnese Palace and
others; and lastly the Pantheon, which may be
justly termed the finest monument of antiquity in
Rome.
1839.]
403
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
In a manuscript relation of the sacking of Rome,
preserved in the Vatican, it is told that Charles V.,
coming to that city in 1536, wished to see the open-
ing at the top of the dome of the Pantheon. A
young Roman, Crescenzi, appointed to accompany
him on this occasion, afterwards said to his father,
that he had been much tempted to push the Emperor
down the opening, in order to avenge his country for
the sacking of the city. My son," said the wily
Italian, "these are things that are done, but are not
talked of."
66
We had this afternoon the company of Signor
Nibby, a celebrated antiquarian here, who has long
studied the subject, and is well versed in the localities
and history of the Roman Empire. We mounted
the highest staircase in the tower of the Campidoglio*,
which leads to a balcony, commanding the entire view
of Rome and the surrounding country.
M. Nibby explained to us the precise position of
the Forum, as it stood in those days; showing the
Column of Phocas, the Temples of Fortune, Jupiter
Tonans, of which three fine columns remain, and of
Concord, which were on the Via Sacra, and bounded
the Forum. The Aurea Domus of Nero stood
upon a
surface of ground three miles long. The word Forum
is derived from forendum, or the place where business
was to be transacted: this was in the origin the
point of communication between the Romans and
Sabines: it served as a market, but as the city
became more extensive and peopled, other forums
* The Capitol is called Campidoglio- from Campo d'Olio, field
of oil.
DD 2
404
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
were erected for different trades; such as the cattle
market, worthy of remark; the fish market, and
various others: this original forum then was no
longer used for the purpose of barter, but became
dedicated to literary pursuits, and public speaking,
for which the Rostrum was erected. It was then
the resort of all literary men and the great scene of
public debating.
It appears from M. Nibby's researches, that the
population of Rome never amounted to more than
1,600,000, which he calculates by the daily con-
sumption of wheat in the city, as preserved in the
annals. The circumstances of Caesar's death, repre-
sented by Shakspeare as happening in the Forum,
and indeed by historians, are explained by Nibby in
a different manner. Pompey during his prosperity
built a magnificent theatre at Rome, and for the
convenience of the senators, a Curia, where they
might retire for their recreation, and here his statue
was erected. Brutus and the other conspirators
purposely ordered some games at this theatre, to
which Cæsar was invited; and when he arrived,
Casca and the others rushed in upon him, and mur-
dered him, not at the feet of the statue, but close to
it; as the people had previously thrown it on the
ground, on account of his defeat at Pharsalia, a
treatment which the Romans always reserved for the
unfortunate. This may also account for the scar on
the neck, as the head was probably broken off by the
fall. One difficulty was explained to me, which pre-
viously I was unable to comprehend. Whenever I
have examined these ruins, they appear to be buried
1839.]
405
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
in the bowels of the earth to a certain extent, and
all the curious works of art to have been gained by
excavation; as at Pompeii and Herculaneum, where
the cause was self-evident. But the fact is, that old
Rome, with all its immense buildings, was destroyed
partly by an earthquake, and more particularly by
the ravages of the barbarian invaders, so as to have
been literally buried in its own ruins; then for a
long period it was left to decay; roofs fell in, walls
crumbled down and increased the mass of rubbish;
afterwards the new city was built, and without regard
to the splendid wrecks around, the confusion was
increased by the erection of houses upon these ruins,
till at last during many centuries of inundations
from the Tiber, and increasing quagmires, a new
surface was formed on the soil, which left the records
of the past, as they now are, twelve or fifteen feet
under ground. The soil of Rome, whenever occasion
requires it to be removed, is found to be not earth,
or mould, but a dry compost of mortar, bricks, and
rubbish, unfit for the purposes of vegetation,
Italy is the only real sanctuary of the Arts in Eu-
rope. In viewing the wonders scattered so profusely
on her surface, how do all the other nations appear bar-
barous and devoid of classical knowledge? France
may boast her Versailles, and a few monuments
copied from her neighbours; England has really
nothing. If both these countries were buried in
their own ruins for 1000 years, the antiquary of
futurity would not find anything worth the trouble
of an excavation. Here the liberty of searching for
antiquities is given to every proprietor of the land,
under the restriction that nothing shall be carried
DD 3
406
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
out of the City; the government is ready to purchase
any valuable object discovered at a fair price.
Tuesday, 10th. - We began this morning with the
Barberini Palace; and then went on to the church
of Sta. Maria Maggiore, San Pietro in Vinculis, and
finished our tour to-day with the church of San
Stefano Rotondo, supposed to have been either a
Temple of Faunus or of Claudius; but it was pro-
bably a church of the fifth century, and the pillars
were taken from more ancient edifices.
M. de Cambis, attached to the French embassy
under Latour Maubourg, and who has been some
time in Rome, dined with us to-day: he says that
the inhabitants never pay the least attention to
foreigners, or invite them to their houses, but will
accept invitations from them readily.
In the evening we went to the Opera, which was
crowded, though the representation was execrable,
as well as the singing. In the boxes were the former
Madame Dodwell, now married to Mr. Spaer the
Bavarian Minister, and in the stage-box an eccle-
siastic, who is the Governor of Rome.
Wednesday, 11th. On the Mount Esquiline was
the House of Horace, afterwards the property of
Juvenal; Virgil and Propertius also lived here,
being the most healthy situation in Rome, as Horace
says (Sat. 8. 14.),
"Nunc licet Esquiliis habitare salubribus."
Here was the Forum of Nerva, which is mentioned
in history as being the scene of a cruel punishment
inflicted by Alexander Severus on one of his favourites,
Vetronius Turinus, who promised the favours of his
1839.]
407
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
prince to others for money. He caused him to be
suffocated with the smoke of wet straw and green
wood, while the public criers repeated, Fumo pu-
nitur qui vendidit fumum.
There are some remains of the camp of the Præ-
torian guards, but they are worked into the walls of
the city, or form a barrack for the papal troops.
The Theatre of Marcellus, which could hold
30,000 spectators, was dedicated by Augustus to
the young Son of Octavia, ten years after his death,
so pathetically alluded to by Virgil,
"Tu Marcellus eris."
Its columns and decorations were of the finest
designs, Doric and Ionic; part of the circular exterior
is still visible to the street, but the great mass of the
building is now become a part of the houses, which
are crowded together in that quarter, and if they
could be pulled down and investigated, it might
prove a fine field for the discovery of valuable objects.
This morning we went to the Sixtine Chapel at
the Vatican. This chapel is seldom used but during
the mysteries of the Holy Week; it is then not easy
to gain admittance. We next visited what are called
the Loges de Raphäel: they have been much ex-
posed to the air, and have suffered from it.
The Museum of the Vatican is the most noble, the
most rich, exhibition of rare works of art that ever
were collected together in the world; the most
celebrated statues are here preserved, and on looking
through these numerous galleries filled entirely with
the spoils of the ancient Romans, it seems almost
incredible that more should be still hidden in their
DD 4
408
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
ruins. The busts of such a multitude of individuals
who were already known to us by name, with the
numberless inscriptions and records of this people,
displayed in every direction, are like a resurrection
of antiquity.
The corridor which leads to the Museum is filled
with the monuments and epitaphs of the ancient
Romans-innumerable, and forming a subject of the
highest interest, but little noticed by strangers.
Thursday, 12th. - Our journey this morning
commenced with the Doria Palace, on the Corso,
You enter a splendid suite of five saloons, furnished
in the grand style of Louis XIV. as it is called, but
which that monarch only borrowed from Italy: the
hangings, porticoes, and furniture are all of that
splendid Genoa particoloured velvet, which is now
no longer to be obtained; while the walls are
covered with innumerable paintings, of which those
in the first room are all by Poussin.
From thence we went to the Villa Doria Pamfili,
just out of the walls of Rome. We passed through
the Place Navone, the largest market at Rome; with
an obelisk of granite, and a fountain of colossal figures
executed by Bernini, occupying the site of the ancient
circus, built by Alexander Severus. When this
great fountain was inaugurated, the Pope Innocent
X., who had unwillingly committed the execution of
it to Bernini, came to visit the completion of his
work, and passed two hours in examining its massive
details. Still the waters had not played, and on
going away the Pope demanded of Bernini, when
the supply would be laid on. "That cannot be done
1839.]
409
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
immediately,” replied the artist, "it requires time to
prepare the conduits and pipes. The Pope, having
given his benediction, departed, but before he had
reached the first door of the enclosure, the sudden
bubbling of the waters induced him to return.
Transported with joy at this sight, he said, "Bernini,
the pleasure of this surprise will prolong my life
for ten years. And he gave instantly 100 pistoles
""
to the workmen.
In driving round the walls, we stopped at the
vineyard Lasagno, which is between the Porta Pai
and the Porta San Lorenzo, to look at a cemetery,
or, as it is called, columbario, lately excavated; not
only very curious in itself, but peculiarly so to us,
as showing at once the manner in which these objects
lie buried in the earth. It was a fine stone square
building of about twelve or fourteen feet, which had
lain imbedded on the side of a hill in the vineyard,
and the earth being cut away all round, left it stand-
ing alone, with the roof about four feet lower than
the surface of the ground. The doors, which had
formerly been of bronze, had been carried away by
some robbers, probably before the building had be-
come invisible. One of the most striking traits in
the Roman character seems to have been the lavish
expense which they displayed in their cemeteries of
the dead, and these durable monuments have very
much conduced to the elucidation of their history
in the present day.
Friday, 13th. The great fortunes and the splen-
did palaces which have belonged to the principal
Roman families, may with very little exception be
410
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
traced to the popes of former times, who have en-
riched themselves and their relations at the public
expense. There is hardly a noble family here which
cannot boast of having given at least one Pontiff
to the Holy See; and so diligently have all worked
in the trade of making money, that one alone has
been sufficient to enrich all his consanguinity; from
thence came the term nepotism, as these popes were
not supposed to have sons. In former times, when
all the nations of Europe paid tribute to the Pope,
his means of accumulation were enormous; and the
inconceivable expense then incurred in churches,
palaces, statues, and pictures, which now render
Rome the emporium of the fine arts, is thus easily
accounted for.
We went this morning to the Palace Borghese: it
is a very large building, and a suite of twelve rooms
are open to the public for the exhibition of the pic-
tures; some are fine, but in this great number there
are many of an inferior description.
From thence to the Campidoglio, we passed through
the Piazza de Pietra, where is the façade of a noble
temple to Antoninus Pius, which now forms the
front of the custom-house.
We drove along the old Via Appia, of which a
part of the original pavement still exists, and passed
the tomb of Cecilia Metella. It still bears a marble
slab in front, with the following inscription,-
CECILIE.
Q. CRETICI F.
METELLÆ, CRASSI.
Along this road, almost at the distance of every five
1833.]
411
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
yards, are the massive ruins of large tombs, of which
the interior brickwork only remains, as the marble ex-
terior has long been pillaged by the modern Romans.
This custom of placing the monuments of the dead
by the side of the public highway, exposed to general
observation, may account for the vanity displayed in
these expensive structures by the ancients.
We finished by the ancient Church of San
Lorenzo, situated out of the city walls, in the Campo
Verano. Near to this church is one of the great
cemeteries of modern Rome: it contains 365 holes,
or ready-made graves, one of which is opened
every day in the year, to receive the dead; upon
whom quick lime is thrown, and then it is closed up,
till all traces of the deposit are burnt away, and not
opened again till the following year.
Saturday, 14th.-We drove out of Rome to the
Monte Mario, from whence there is a magnificent
view of the city. On passing the Tiber we were
shown the path on its banks where Miss Bathurst
met her untimely fate; her horse started, and fell
down the steep bank into the river, which is very
deep and full of eddies and whirlpools. We passed
an agreeable hour in walking about St. Peter's, the
grandeur of which becomes more striking every time
that you visit it. We had now seen, in other col-
lections, the pictures which had been removed from
the cathedral on account of the damp, and replaced
by copies excuted in mosaic; they were all chefs-
d'œuvre, and it is wonderful to see how the art of
working mosaic in that time has equalled the origi-
nals. We visited the Palace Corsini, one of the
412
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
largest and most vaunted in Rome; although more
than sufficient for the largest establishment, it still
contains within its domain a large pavilion or casino,
with an extent of grounds which, being in the town,
must be of immense value.
This palace was inhabited by Queen Christina,
and here she died: in the library are shown some of
her letters; but the greatest sensation at her death
was created by her will, in which she omitted to leave
anything to her own numerous dependants, who, as
her friend Menzini relates, showed little grief at her
departure.
The owner of this noble palace is the Prince Cor-
sini, an old man, with an immense fortune, but ex-
tremely avaricious. He married a few years ago a
Russian lady, supposing that she had a large property;
but finding that it was not the case, he takes care to
avoid the expense of marriage by allowing little
for her maintenance. I saw her at Carlsbad.
rest of the morning was passed in inspecting the old
Roman ruins in the town, which are always an object
of great interest.
The
Sunday, 15th.—We sat off this morning at nine
o'clock to dine with the Duc de Bracciano at the
Villa Conti at Frascati, about twelve miles from
Rome. He is the brother of Torlonia, the great
banker. The weather was most disagreeable; an
extreme case of what the Italians call scirocco,
burning sun, with a violent hot wind, raising the
dust at every step, and creating around a hazy atmo-
sphere thick and impenetrable to the eye like the
mirage in the Egyptian desert. At times the coach-
a
1839.]
413
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
man could hardly see his way through the clouds of
fine dust which blinded both him and the horses.
We went round by Grotta Ferrata to view some
fine paintings by Domenichino in the small chapel
of St. Nil, its founder. They were done when he was
only twenty-nine years old, and are singularly fine.
From thence we proceeded to Frascati, called by the
Romans Tusculum, where the remains of Cicero's
villa are just visible.
This Villa Conti is a large rambling building,
very ill furnished, but commanding extensive views
over the whole country, even beyond Rome; the
air was unfortunately so thick that we could not
enjoy them. We were received by the Duke and
Duchess de Bracciano, who led us into the pleasure-
grounds, which are laid out in terraces with massive
stone balustrades and staircases, ornamented with
a variety of cascades and fountains in the old taste.
The duke took us from thence to the Villa
Aldobrandini, called the Belvedere, a summer resi-
dence of the Borghese family, who were at the time
assembled under this roof. This superb dwelling
seems to be much neglected and out of order; its
statues and cascades bear testimony to the econo-
mical habits which have succeeded to the bound-
less extravagance of former days. The Prince Bor-
ghese, who married a daughter of Lord Shrewsbury,
came down to converse with us for a short time; he
is a very handsome young man, with gentlemanlike
manners, but he never asked us to see the interior
of his palace, or offered to introduce Alvanley, whom
he had previously known in Rome, to the Princess.
414
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
They seem to live in an irregular way,—no servants
to be seen in livery, and even the key of the chapel,
which is in constant use, was not to be found; there
were twenty horses crowded together in the stable,
of which none seemed to be worth twenty pounds:
and this is the highest and richest family in Rome,
descended from popes, and the present head of the
house receives 100,000l. portion with his English wife.
Within a very short distance are two more splendid
villas belonging to this wealthy family, that of
Taverna and that of Mondragone, both falling into
decay; but the grounds are beautifully laid out and
stocked with valuable timber.
We returned to dine at the Conti Villa, where
we met Count and Countess Chinci; she is a beau-
tiful woman, but distant in her manner; indeed
M. de Cambis describes all the Roman families as
living retired by themselves, avoiding and disliking
foreigners.
In the evening, after a drive in the country, which
was made disagreeable by a continuation of the
scirocco, we stopped at what was formerly called
the Palace Odeschalchi, but is now the summer resi- ·
dence of the Propaganda. The principal, who did the
honours of the house to us, was a type of the Jesuit;
he had a fine commanding countenance, a smiling
and insinuating manner, but above all a subtle eye,
which showed an intimate knowledge of human
nature, and the talent of turning it to his own pur-
poses.
Monday, 16th.-We went to the Palazzo Colonna :
here, in the centre of a shield, in the vast ante-
1839.]
415
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
room, is a large column, the characteristic arms of
the Colonna family. The great saloon surpasses in
magnificence every room in this city. The four
great Roman families, who claim to be descendants
from the old time, are the Colonna, the Gaetani,
the Orsini, and Annibaldi; but their fortunes are
vanished, and they only brood over the past in their
neglected palaces. On the right is the apartment
let to the French Ambassador, which is very ex-
tensive, and contains the fine tapestry hangings
presented by Louis XIV. to the Constable Colonna,
who married Madlle. Mancini.
Driving out of the town, we came to the Villa
Albani, and its museum of statues and old records of
the Romans, created by the Cardinal Alexander of
that name, who made several excavations himself,
and purchased considerably from others.
The house is curiously fitted up, contains many
rooms commanding a very fine prospect, and is al-
together a delightful residence for a private family,
as it is on a small scale.
On our return home we called at the studio of an
Italian sculptor, Signor Bienaimé, who has lately
executed two nymphs in marble, for the Emperor of
Russia, just sent to Petersburg; we saw the models
in plaster, which are admirable. We saw there a
Psyche, a Mercury, and other statues, which he had
just finished. The arts here are much improved of
late, and seem to be well encouraged, as these pieces
appear to cost from 400l. to 6007., and even 8007.
Tuesday, 17th.—We began this morning by walk-
ing over the palace of the Cæsars, and the Coliseum,
416
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
from whence we went to the Baths of Diocletian, of
which only a few walls remain, as a convent of Car-
thusian friars exists here, and they have a beautiful
cloister, built after the design of Michael Angelo.
We went next to the Baths of Titus, near the
Coliseum, which he built over a part of Nero's
palace, and to make the foundation stronger,
filled it full of rubbish. The baths have dis-
appeared by time, but the old palace has been
brought again to light, and gives a very fair idea of
the building. The forms of several rooms, and a
part of the garden in which was a fountain, are now
visible.
We went to the church of S. Louis des Français,
in which there are some fine marbles and pictures
by Carravagio.
Among the epitaphs is one erected by Chateau-
briand to the memory of Mad. Pauline Montmorin,
celebrated for her misfortune in losing all her nearest
relations.
There is another to a Duc d'Estrées, who came to
Rome in 1686, and died here, when his body was
laid in a chapel, in the expectation that his friends
in France would send for the corpse: year after
year rolled on, and his friends left the Duke's body
to lie where it was. When 145 years had expired,
M. de St. Aulaire, thinking it high time that it
should be placed under ground, gave orders for the
interment.
M. de Cambis dined with us, and M. de Stackel-
berg came in the evening. We went to the theatre
of the Marionnettes, which is very diverting and
national; the ballet is ludicrous in the extreme.
1839.]
417
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
At eleven o'clock we drove to the Coliseum, to
view it by moonlight. The effect was awful and
grand; as the beams shone through the arches, and
delineated the outline of these majestic ruins, they
seemed to increase in height and extent, and their
colossal grandeur then was very striking. In the
centre of this vast arena, where so much human blood
has been wantonly spilt, and where the early Chris-
tians were massacred for the amusement of this cruel
people, now stands on high the cross of Christ, the
sign of that God whose great attribute is mercy,
placed there to purify and consecrate the polluted
soil. This city, too, which, in the height of its pride
and prosperity, was the great source of persecution
to the infant religion founded by our Saviour, is
now, by a singular retribution, made the chief point
of its worship, the seat of its principal and chief,
however unworthy some may at times have proved
themselves of the distinction.
Is not everywhere compensation silently accom-
plished?
Wednesday, 18th. We went to the Temple
of Antoninus and Faustina, now turned into a
church, called that of San Lorenzo Miranda: very
plain and simple, little corresponding with the fine
columns, frieze, and cornice of the ancient temple,
which still remains in very good preservation near
the Forum. From thence we adjourned to the
Temple of Romulus, close by, also converted into a
church; but here the simple temple is inferior to the
church, which is very beautiful. The church retains
the exact shape of the Temple, and has the same
VOL. III.
E E
418
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
bronze folding doors which existed in the time of the
Romans. We then drove to the great circus of
Romulus, situated near the tomb of Metella with-
out the walls; and afterwards visited a very cu-
rious old church, that of St. Clement, in which there
are many rarities,— a marble chandelier inlaid with
mosaic, a rail with marble network, and two marble
pulpits.
We went again this evening to view the Coliseum
by torchlight, and see the effect of light and shade
in these immense arches, and along the spacious
corridors leading to the seats inside; these were able
to contain almost the whole of the audience, when
they retreated from their open benches, on account
of the rain; there was a velarium of cloth, which was
spread over one half of this immense circle, to protect
the spectators from the sun.
Thursday, 19th. We went to the Academie des
Arts, where there are a few good pictures by
Salvator Rosa and Guido, and a Saint Luke, by
Raphael, painting the Virgin, who stands for her
picture. Among the modern portraits is one of the
Princess Santa Croce, a friend of Talleyrand's, and
Thorwaldsen, and a bust of Canova.
We drove to the Ponte Rotto of the Romans: a
little lower down the river are the remains of the
old Ponte Sulpicio, which was defended by Horatius
Cocles; and near this spot are the Temple of
Fortuna Virilis (now a church), and the house of
Rienzi. We passed three hours in the statue gallery
at the Vatican, admiring all the wonders contained
in it. I was struck with the numberless inscriptions
1839.]
419
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
on tombstones, which have been arranged here in
order, all bearing token of affectionate feeling to
the dead, as in modern days; such as fratri caris-
śimo, conjugi quam valde dilexit, and these have now
been preserved 1800 or 1900 years.
We went to the church of Sta. Cecilia, an old
building formerly a bath. The shrine of the saint is
in marble and lapis lazuli, with her statue, lying
on her face, as she was found dead in this bath: she
was the wife of a senator, and daughter of a noble
Roman, who caused her to be assassinated, because
she had been converted to the Christian religion.
The bath itself is now converted into a chapel, and
retains its mosaic designs, and even the flues and
stoves used to heat the water and air. We returned
to dinner, and at eleven o'clock I set off in a
carriage for Cività Vecchia, where, travelling all
night, I arrived,
It was
Friday, 20th, at seven in the morning.
not long before I heard here, that the steam-boat
at Naples had been detained, and would not arrive
till to-morrow; which obliged me to pass a dull
twenty-four hours at this dirty and noisy inn.
Saturday, 21st. The steam-boat, Leopold II.,
arrived at ten o'clock this morning in the harbour.
I went on board at two o'clock, and found so many
passengers, that I could only get a sofa in the dining
room for my night's rest. The only person I knew
was Lablache, the bass singer, and a lady, who
appeared to recognise me. She proved to be Lady
Weymouth, the widow, who has since married a
young Florentine, named Angriambi, and seems to
EE 2
.420
[SEPT.
JOURNAL OF
be established in Florence. The wind grew very
high towards the evening, and I felt during the
night that our boat was in troubled waters.
Sunday, 22nd.-With some difficulty we got into
the harbour of Leghorn, where the Captain (Olive)
says, that if it does not subside this evening, he shall
be unable to put to sea for Genoa, and our voyage
will be a long one. There is a very fine frigate in
the road at anchor, belonging to Ali Pacha, which
does credit to the Egyptian Navy. She has brought
a cargo of cotton for the Pasha's account.
Monday, 23rd. - Resumed our voyage at four in
the evening, and passed a stormy night.
Tuesday, 24th. After a much more tranquil
passage, though the wind was directly against us,
we weathered the night in a very satisfactory manner,
and arrived at Marseilles about three o'clock in the
day. The custom-house officers here were more
searching, and more ridiculously vexatious, than any
I have seen in all my travels.
Wednesday, 25th.-Passed the day at Marseilles
alone.
Thursday, 26th.-Went on board the steam-boat,
which only conveyed me the first day as far as Arles,
where I arrived at twelve o'clock. After breakfast,
I went to see the amphitheatre built by the Romans,
which is very like that at Pompeii, but more massive
in its structure, though not so large, as it would only
hold 27,000 people; the corridors and prisons for
the gladiators are well preserved. From thence I
went to the Cathedral.
Friday, 27th.-I embarked in another steamer
1839.]
421
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
this morning at eleven, which brought me to Avignon
at five in the evening. The direction of these boats
is very irregular, and though they agree at the
Bureau to convey you to Lyons, you may perhaps
wait two or three days at the different stations, be-
fore you are forwarded from one to the other.
Saturday, 28th.—This morning I walked out and
looked over the town, which is very interesting. I
saw the ancient palace of the Popes, when they
resided at Avignon; it is a fine building of that
period, but now converted into a barrack. Finding
by chance at the Hôtel du Palais Royal, that Lord
Hertford was here, on his way to Genoa, I put off my
journey by the steamer to-day, and stayed to dine
with him.
Sunday, 29th.-After breakfast I went to see the
Museum, where there are some curious tombs and
inscriptions of the time of the Romans, which have
been dug up by the government; though, after all
that I have seen, not very interesting. There is a
singular monument of a Cardinal Lagrange, the
great benefactor of the Benedictine Order, who
ordered by his will, that his own statue, as he died,
should be placed on the tomb: he afterwards died of
a consumption, and his body had become so ema-
ciated, that the statue resembles a skeleton.
There is a gallery of pictures, and also a collection
of coins, the most numerous and valuable in France,
after that of Paris.
There are the remains of a bridge over the Rhone,
built by the Romans, one half of which is perfect
and solid, like all their constructions; but it was im-
422
[OCT.
JOURNAL OF
possible to make use of it, as being built when there
were no carriages, it is so narrow that it would not
do for the present times.
Tuesday, October 1st. Found myself aboard of
the Jupiter, which was to start at five o'clock; but
was delayed for the arrival of a great personage, Mr.
Le Grand, directeur des Ponts et Chaussées, who is
making a tour up the Rhone, to inspect the river and
order improvements, and who only came on board at
nine o'clock.
-
Thursday, 3rd. A most disagreeable passage
in this dirty steamer. At night I went on deck: the
rain was pouring in torrents; the terrible Rhone
flowing with a swollen current, which checks our
progress, and there is no chance of getting to Lyons
this evening. A melancholy accident occurred here
yesterday, in the neighbourhood of Valence, with
one of these steamers. A boat put out from the
shore, bringing some passengers to be taken on board.
Whether it was that the steamer did not stop the
wheels in time, for they calculate every minute, —
or the boatmen approached in a wrong direction, it
happened that the boat got entangled with the
paddles, and went down in an instant: a woman and
her two children, a lad, and a man, were drowned at
once; the boatman alone was saved, by getting hold
of a rope which hung from the side. Passed another
disagreeable day on board.
Friday, 4th. At nine this morning we arrived
at Lyons; the rain still continuing, which is a
novelty, as during the whole time I have been in
Italy, we have only once seen a single shower. It
1839.]
423
T. RAIKES, ESQ.
is a satisfaction to be again on land, and the Hôtel
d'Europe is an excellent inn.
In the evening I went to the play, which was
crowded, notwithstanding the most violent storm I
ever saw.
Sunday, 6th. I went to the cathedral service at
Lyons. It is a fine old building in the exterior,
but very simple and plain within. The church was
crowded with people. Being sick of the dilatory
water carriage, (which in Italy had been so easy
and agreeable, but now against the stream, and
the rivers swollen into torrents by the rain, is so
precarious and tiresome,) I determined to make the
best of my way to Paris by land, and wished to
have the Malle Poste, which is a quick and agree-
able conveyance, but the two places were taken for
the next week to come; so I got by chance the
coupé in the diligence for to-night, and set out for
Paris at ten o'clock.
After a most fatiguing journey, without stopping
for three days and three nights, I arrived, at near
nine o'clock on Wednesday night, in the faubourg
St. Honoré, 9th October.
*
*
*
*
Saturday, 26th. The deaths of the Duke of Bed-
ford, aged seventy-four, and of the Duke of Argyle,
aged seventy-two, are announced from England. The
latter I had long intimately known; he was an ami-
able thoughtless man, who whistled away the cares of
life, which he had much increased by his early ex-
travagance. He was at Inverary Castle on the 22nd,
at dinner, when he fell dead off his chair, supposed
424
JOURNAL OF T. RAIKES, ESQ. [DEC. 1839.
to be in a fit of apoplexy. He was out and well before
dinner, and had taken a ride up Glenang. When the
Whigs came in, he was made Lord Steward; the
Duchess, late Lady Paget, died two or three years ago.
Sunday, 27th.-I called this morning on Madame
Graham, where I found Pozzo de Borgo sitting, who
is much changed and broke, and his head does not
seem very coherent; he certainly wandered occasion-
ally, though he reminded me of many conversations
he had had five years ago here, and did not express
himself at all satisfied with the Russian Government.
Monday, November 25th.-On Saturday the Queen
announced to her Council at Buckingham House,
her intended marriage with Prince Albert of Saxe-
Coburg.
-
Thursday, December 12th. The Duchesse de
Sagan died this week at Vienna, aged fifty-nine, leav-
ing a fortune of above 12 millions, which goes to the
Princess Hohenzollern, her sister. She has left two
husbands, having once had three at the same time, —
Prince Louis de Rohan, Trubetzkoy, and a German.
Tuesday, 31st. Count Quelen, the Archbishop of
Paris, died.
END OF THE THIRD VOLUME.
10
LONDON:
Printed by Spottiswoode & Co.
New-street Square.
THE
HAMILTONIAN SYSTEM;
OR,
A SHORT AND EASY METHOD OF LEARNING AN
UNKNOWN LANGUAGE
BY A CLOSE INTERLINEAR TRANSLATION.
"The Hamiltonian System teaches an unknown tongue by the closest interlinear
anslation, instead of leaving the pupil to explore his way by the lexicon or dic-
onary. It postpones the study of grammar till a considerable progress has been
ade in the language, and a great degree of practical grammar has been acquired.
Ve recommend those who wish to acquire a knowledge of languages in the least
me possible, to use the books arranged with interlineal translations, by James
[amilton.”—Edinburgh Review.
The following Books are published on the HAMILTONIAN
YSTEM, by Aylott and Co., 8, Paternoster Row:
Gospel of St. John......
Latin.
s. d.
French.
s. d.
4 0
Epitome Historiæ Sacræ
4
0
Gospel of St. John..
Florian's Fables..
4 0
3 0
Cæsar's Commentaries
7 6
Perrin's Fables
4
6
•
Virgil's Eneid
5
6
Recueil Choisi
5 6
Latin Verbs
20
Verbs
2 0
Phædrus' Fables..
4
0
French Grammar
2 6
Æsop's Fables..
4 0
Petit Jack
3 6
•
Eutropius
4 0
Télémaque
•
.
5 6
Aurelius Victor
4 0
Elisabeth, ou les Exiles..
5 0
Cornelius Nepos..
6
6
Edgeworth's Frank
1 6
Selectæ è Profanis, 2 vols. 10 0
German.
Cicero in Catilinam
4 0
Gospel of St. John...,
4 0
Sallust..
7 6
Robinson der Jungere, 2 v. 10 0
Ovid's Metamorphoses
7 6
Edward in Scotland
4 6
Medical Student's Guide 5 6
Italian.
Celsus de Medicina, 3 vols. 15
0
Gospel of St. John..
•
4 0
Gregory's Conspectus, 2 v. 10
0
Silvio Pellico
4 0
Greek.
Notti Romane
66
Gospel of St. John…………….
60
Raccolta di Favole..
5 6
Gospel of St. Matthew
6 0
Tasso's Jerusalem Deli-
Esop's Fables..
60
vered
5 6
Analecta Græca Minora.. 6 0
Verbs
20
Xenophon's Memorabilia 6 0
Novelle Morali
4 0
Homer's Iliad......
6 6
Spanish.
Aphorisms of Hippocrates 7 0
History of the Hamiltonian System. Price 6d.
Gospel of St. John………………
40
PUBLISHED BY AYLOTT & CO., 8, PATERNOSTER ROW.
IRVING'S CATECHISMS.
SOUTER'S IMPROVED SERIES. Revised by Dr. Busby; the Rev. T. Clarl
J. G. Gorton; C. Mackenzie; Wm. Maugham; F. W. Simm
J. T. Pratt, Esq., &c. 9d. sewed, or 1s. bound.
** To render these Catechisms every way deserving the very extensive patro
age the y have received, no expense will be spared in the revision and improveme
of each and every edition;-many of the present editions are nearly double the si
of the former, without any advance of price.
HISTORY OF ENGLAND.
GENERAL GEOGRAPHY.
ENGLISH GRAMMAR.
SACRED HISTORY, by the Rev. T.
Clark. With a Map.
MUSIC. With preliminary Instructions
for the Pianoforte.
GENERAL KNOWLEDGE.
ASTRONOMY.
BOTANY. With twenty-eight figures.
CLASSICAL BIOGRAPHY.
CHEMISTRY, by Wm. Maugham, Lec-
turer on Chemistry at the Charing
Cross Hospital.
FRENCH GRAMMAR, by A. Gombert,
Professor of Languages; intended
as an Introduction to Hamel's,
Levizac's, Rouillon's Grammars,
and Tarver's French Exercises.
Revised by J. C. Tarver; with
Exercises on the Rules, by M.
Tarver.
HISTORY OF FRANCE. With five
Portraits.
UNIVERSAL HISTORY. With fi
Portraits.
ALGEBRA, Parts I. and II., by J.
Young, Professor of Mathematics
Belfast College.
BRITISH CONSTITUTION, by J.
Pratt, Barrister-at-Law.
MYTHOLOGY, &c.; a compendio
History of the Heathen Gods, Go
desses, and Heroes.
HISTORY OF GREECE; with ni
Portraits.
HISTORY OF ROME; with ni
Portraits.
ANTIQUITIES OF GREECE.
ANTIQUITIES OF ROME; with
plate of the Crowns and Surals
Rome.
JEWISH ANTIQUITIES; with plat
HISTORY OF IRELAND, by J.
Gorton. With five Portraits.
ITALIAN GRAMMAR.
HISTORY OF SCOTLAND.
LEWIS' CATECHISMS OF THE ARTS AND SCIENCES
The following have already been published, price 6d. each :-
10. Natural History-Ichthyology.
Entomology.
1. Architecture.
2. Astronomy.
3. Mechanics.
11.
12. Hydrostatics.
13. Pneumatics.
14. Hydraulics.
15. Optics.
16. Acoustics.
17. Magnetism.
18. Electricity.
4. Natural History of Man.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Animals. Part I.
Part II.
Birds. Part I.
Part II.
Amphibia.
In these Catechisms the Questions do not precede the Answers, like those cor
prising that justly esteemed series by Dr. Irving, but are printed at the end of ea
Catechism, and numbered to correspond with the Answers. By this plan the Tut
may either teach by interrogation or not; and persons who may use the work f
their own instruction or for reference, will not be interrupted by the Questions.
An Etymological and Pronouncing Vocabulary is given at the end of each Cat
chism.
Just published,
AYLOTT & CO.'S NEW SCHOOL CATALOGUE.
PUBLISHED BY AYLOTT & CO., 8, PATERNOSTER ROW.
FOSTER'S
COUNTING-HOUSE ASSISTANT;
Comprising a Series of Tables showing when Bills or Notes drawn at any date or
period fall due; a Summary of the Usages, Nature, and Operation of Inland and
Foreign Bills of Exchange; the Commercial Code of France relating to Bills of
Exchange and Promissory Notes; a Synopsis of Book-keeping, and Analysis of the
Ledger; Explanation of Commercial Terms and Expressions, Time Tables, &c. &c.
Second Edition, 8vo, cloth, lettered, price 5s.
FOSTER'S PENCILLED COPY-BOOKS FOR LADIES' SCHOOLS.
In Twelve Numbers, 4to post. Price 6d. each.
No. 1 to 3. Initiatory Exercises; ex. size. |
No. 4 to 7.
No. 10. Round and Small-hand.
Ditto; large-text. No. 11. Small-hand Sentences.
No. 12. Large-text, Round, & Small-hand.
No. 8 and 9. Large-text Copies.
FOSTER'S PENCILLED COPY-BOOKS FOR GENTLEMEN'S
SCHOOLS. In Eighteen Numbers, 4to foolscap. Price 4d. each.
No. 1 to 3. Initiatory exercises; ex. size. | No. 13 and 14. Large-text words.
No. 4 to 6.
hand.
Ditto; large-text. No. 15. Large-text, Text, and Round-
No. 7. Capitals and Figures.
No. 8. Text; 9. Round; 10. Small-hand.
No. 11. Text, Round, and Small-hand.
No. 12. Lessons in Current-hand.
No. 16. Text-hand Sentences.
No. 17. Round-hand Sentences.
No. 18. Small-hand Sentences.
THE NATIONAL SCHOOL COPY-BOOKS. In Sixteen Numbers,
Price 2d. each.
No. 1 and 5. Large-text, Straight-strokes,
and Letters.
No. 1 to 6. Large text, Letters.
No. 7 and 8. Text, Letters.
No. 9. Large-text, Capitals, and Figures.
No. 10 and 11. Text, Words.
No. 12. Text & Round, Capitals & Figs.
No. 13. Round-hand Sentences.
No. 14. Small-hand Sentences.
No. 15. Large-text Sentences.
No. 16. Text, Round, and Small-hand
Sentences.
FOSTER'S DOUBLE-ENTRY ELUCIDATED. A New System of
Teaching Book-keeping. Seventh Edition, cloth, 8s. 6d.
FOSTER'S PENMANSHIP ILLUSTRATED. 12mo, 2s. 6d.
FOSTER'S ORIGIN AND PROGRESS OF BOOK-KEEPING.
CARPENTER'S
FIRST LESSONS IN DRAWING AND DESIGN;
1s.
Or, Pencilled Copies and Easy Examples. For the Use of Schools and Families.
In Twelve Numbers, Large Post Quarto, price One Shilling each.
No. 1. Straight Lines and Combinations.
No. 2. Rectilineal Figures.
No. 3. Curves.
No. 4. Outlines of Familiar Objects.
No. 5. Shaded Figures.
No. 6. Introduction to Perspective.
No. 7. Trees.
No. 8. The Human Figure.
No. 9. Animals and Rustic Figures.
No. 10. Ornament.
No. 11. Flowers.
No. 12. Maps.
*** The series embraces a complete course of Elementary Drawing, consisting of
appropriate and carefully graduated Copies, advancing from the simple stroke to
the most difficult outline, printed in pencil-coloured ink, to be first drawn over and
then imitated. The Exercises have been so simplified, as to render the art of
Drawing as easy of attainment as that of Writing.
PUBLISHED BY AYLOTT & CO., 8, PATERNOSTER ROW.
•
•
JOYCE'S Scientific Dialogues. By Walker. 12mo, cloth
Judson's (Sarah B.) Missionary Biography. 12mo, cloth ..
Newman's and Baretti's Dictionary-Spanish and English and
English and Spanish. 2 vols., 8vo, cloth....
Paley's (Archdeacon) Works. 4 vols., 8vo, cloth
Prosser's Key to the Hebrew Scripture. 8vo, cloth
Haycock's Elements of Veterinary Homeopathy, embracing
Hints on the Application of Hydropathy, or a treatise on
the Diseases of the Horse and Cow; with Remarks on the
General Management and Principal Diseases incidental to
the Sheep and Dog. By W. Haycock, V.S., Member of
the Veterinary College, Edinburgh. 8vo, cloth..
Gleadow's Daily Prayers for a Fortnight. 8vo, cloth, lettered
Sharpe's (Dr. W.) Tracts on Homoeopathy. 5th Edition, 8vo
Speeches of the Earl of Chatham, the Right Hon. Richard
Brinsley Sheridan, Lord Erskine, Right Hon. Charles
James Fox. 2 vols., 8vo, cloth.
Speeches of Chatham. 8vo, cloth
Sheridan. Svo, cloth
Fox. Royal 8vo, cloth
•
• •
•
•
Baretti's Italian Dictionary ;-Vol. I. Italian and English;
Vol. II. English and Italian. 2 vols., 8vo. cloth
Johnson's Dictionary, by Todd and Latham. 3 vols., 4to.
Herschell's (Ridley H.) Visit to my Father-land: being Notes
£. s. d.
0 6 0
0 2
0
1
8 0
1 16
0
0
6
0
0 10
6
0
2
6
2 0
0
1 8 0
0 5 0
040
0 16 0
1 10 0
7 7 0
of a Journey to Syria and Palestine in 1843; with addi-
tional Notes of a Journey in 1854. 7th Edit., cloth, lettered 0 2 6
Jewish Witnesses that Jesus is the
Christ. 12mo..
0 26
036
010
0
6
0
1 6
•
0 1 6
016
Mystery of the Gentile Dispensation
and the Work of the Messiah. 12mo, cloth
Invalid's Own Book; Prose and Verse: from various Christian
Authors. By a Fellow Sufferer. 32mo, cloth
The Hebrew Primer. By the Rev. A. McCaul, D.D., Pro-
fessor of Divinity in King's College. Intended as an In-
troduction to the Reading of Hebrew with the Points. 8vo
Arabic-an Easy Method of Acquiring. Folio sheet ..
Hebrew-an Easy Method of Acquiring. Folio sheet
Syriac an Easy Method of Acquiring. Folio sheet
Parkhurst's Greek and English Lexicon.
Book of Jonali; in four Languages, viz., Chaldee, Syriac,
Ethiopic, and Arabic. With Glossaries, by W. Wright,
Professor of Arabic at Trinity College, Dublin. 8vo, cloth
8vo, cloth .
Hart's Hymns. 32mo, bound, gilt edges
Timpson's British Female Biography. 12mo, cloth
Life of Mrs. Elizabeth Fry. 12mo, cloth
•
·
Ainsworth's Latin and English and English and Latin
Dictionary. Bound
C. F. Hodgson, Printer, 1, Gough Square, Fleet Street. E.C.
140
076
0 1 0
0 3 0
0 3 0
0 10 6


BOUNDBY
(WESTLEYS
& C°
LONDON
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
3 9015 01918 4855
NEW EDITION OF CONYBEARE AND HOWSO
ST. PAULT
Utinumerou
its and For Plates prive 313, 6d, cloth
THE LIFE AND EPISTLES
ST
PAUL
CONYBEARE
Late Fellow of Trinity College Cambri
THE REW
HOWSON MA
of the Collegiate histitution Liverpool
SECOND EDITION
Carefully revised and corrected, and printed in a more convenient form-
ended on
1991
the Chr
Divined
book
tier
om the CHRISTIAN I
thustratio
his own
might
Cognition
I the Bible
nd therefor
tellic
lation of t
which its
Amon
befcentral
the inspir
record
rimitive age of the
of the book
tudent are not i
ECODIO bund
ence of thes
HOLY
dist
riety of statements and a copiousness
- The Original Edition,
2 vols. 4to, price £2.
€ 62 835 may
London 5 LONGMAN BY