A 390,009 a
IMITUDELIN ILLUSTRATED GUIDES
TO THE BATTLEFIELDS (1914-1918)
BATTLEFIELDS
OB
THE MARNE
1914
111
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THE GIFT OF
Harry A. Musham
MICHELIN GUIDE
TO THE
BATTLEFIELDS
OF THE
WORLD WAR
VOL. I.

HARRY A. MUSHAM
MAJOR...... INFANTRY
MICHELIN GUIDE
to the
BATTLEFIELDS
of the
WORLD WAR
Vol. I.
The First Battle of the Marne, including the operations
on the Ourcq, in the Marshes of St. Gond
and in the Revigny Pass
1914
Dedicated to the memory of our employees
who died gloriously for their country
JOFFRE
Commander in Chief of the French Army
Copyright, 1919, by MICHELIN ET CIE,
Michelin, Milltown, New Jersey
All rights of translation, adaptation or reproduction (in part or whole), reservedl, in all countries
CONTENTS
Foreword ..........
7.
13 to 25
16
17
HISTORICAL PART....
Day of the 5th of September, 1914 ......
Day of the 6th of September, 1914.
Day of the 7th of September, 1914.
.......
Day of the 8th of September, 1914
Day of the 9th of September, 1914.
Day of the 10th to the 13th of September, 1914
18
19
21
24
TOURISTS' GUIDE.
Practical Information.
27 to 289
29 to 30
31 to 128
33 to 48
49
50 to 78
1.—THE OURCQ ..........
Chantilly
From Chantilly to Senlis.
Senlis
From Senlis to Meaux
Meaux.......
From Meaux to Marcilly ....
From Marcilly to Étrépilly
From Étrépilly to Meaux.
79 to 86
87 to 92
94 to 108
109 to 121
122 to 128
II-THE MARSHES OF ST. GOND
From Meaux to Coulommiers
Coulommiers
From Coulommiers to Provins.....
Provins.....
From Provins to Sézanne..
Sézanne .......
The Marshes of St. Gond.....
From Sézanne to Châlons-sur-Marne
129 to 214
131 to 136
138 to 140
141 to 142
143 to 161
163 to 175
176
177 to 202
203 to 214
111-PASS OF REVIGNY.......
Châlons-sur-Marne
From Châlons to Vitry-le-François.
Vitry-le-François
From Vitry-le-François to Bar-le-Duc
Bar-le-Duc
Tour round Bar-le-Duc....
From Bar-le-Duc to Verdun
Index of names and localities mentioned in this work
215 to 289
217 to 231
235 to 239
241 to 242
245 to 261
262 to 269
272 to 280
283 to 289
291
INDEX TO PLANS AND MAPS. See next page.
6
CONTENTS
PLANS AND MAPS
66
CC
PROVINS
PLAN OF BAR-LE-Duc, black
263
CHÂLONS, in 2 colors.....
between 216 and 217
CHANTILLY, black
34
COULOMMIERS, black.....
137
CRÉCY, black
132
MEAUX, in 2 colors
between 86 and 87
147 and 145
SENLIS
50 and 51
SÉZANNE, black
176
MAP OF THE REGION OF SENLIS, in 4 colors..
between 80 and 81
MAP OF THE REGION OF THE OURCQ, in 4 colors..........
94 and 95
MAP OF THE EXCURSION DESCRIBED IN THE PART "THE MARSALS
OF ST. GOND," in 4 colors.....
between 130 and 131
MAP OF THE EXCURSION DESCRIBED IN THE PART "The Pass or
REVIGNY," in 4 colors..
between 234 and 235
FOREWORD
T
HIS volume is the first of a series of guide books to the
battlefields of the Great War. It is offered as a complete
and practical guide for tourists who contemplate visiting
the scenes where the opening battles in the war were fought, and
who wish to see for themselves the destruction wrought in the
ravished towns of France.
In addition to a wealth of material gathered at first hand,
some of it compiled even before the smoke of battle had cleared
away, this volume contains also an interesting and instructive
history of places and events which in some instances though
perhaps not immediately affected by the war, are either directly
or indirectly associated with the great struggle.
The contemplated visit should be a pilgrimage; not merely a
journey across the ravished land. Seeing is not enough, the visitor
must understand; ruins are more impressive when coupled with a
knowledge of their origin and destruction. A stretch of country
which might seem dull and uninteresting to the unenlightened
eye, becomes transformed at the thought of the battles which
have raged there.
The description of the ground covered by this guide is prefaced
by a short account of the events which took place in the opening
days of the war. In the course of the description a brief military
commentary is given on the numerous views and panoramas con-
tained in this book.
No attempt at literary effort is made in these pages. In visiting
a place that is interesting either from an archaeological or an
artistic point of view, the tourist halts even though the war has
passed it by, that he may realize it was to preserve intact this
heritage of history and beauty that so many heroes fell.
The truth is too beautiful and tragic to be altered for the
sake of embellishing the story; therefore the author has carefully
sifted the great volume of evidence available, and selected only
that obtained from official documents or reliable eye-witnesses.
The wealth of illustrations and authentic maps, with the concise
descriptions in the test, offer the prospective tourist a most inter-
esting study, preliminary to a very instructive and delightful
journey beneath the sunny skies of France.
The Battle of the Marne
PART I.-HISTORICAL
A brief summary of the First Battle of the Marne, including references to the
historic events immediately preceding it, will be found on pages 13 to 25 inclusive.
A clear comprehension of the action as a whole is absolutely necessary to a
full understanding of the separate engagements, so the tourist is recommended
to read these opening pages carefully, consulting the accompanying maps, before
taking up the descriptive part, starting on page 27.
THE BATTLE OF THE MARNE
THE BATTLE OF THE MARNE
(1914)
The map below gives a general view of the ground on which took place
successively the battle of the frontier, the retreat of the Allies, the victo-
rious stand, the pursuit of the retreating enemy.
The distance from Paris to Verdun is 140 miles as the crow flies; that from
Charleroi to the Marne, 97 miles.
Monsi
o Charleroi
Valenciennes
Dinant
oCambrai
St Hubert
Amiens
ho Péronne
Somme
Mezieres &
Mezier
Roye
Oise
oLongwy
Aisne
Meuse
ocompiègne.
oClermont
um
'Soissons
Metzl
Reims
Ourca
Senlis
Chantilly
VERDUN
Marne
Châlons-sur-Marilao
QEcouen
Meauxo
PARIS
Revignyo
Marais de Si Gond
Coulommiers
Sézanneo
Vitry-le-François
Bar-le-Duc
St Dizier
Seine
Provins
Aube
Fontainebleau
Troyes
Maximum German Advance
In consequence of the tearing up of that fateful "scrap of paper," which
preceded the invasion of Belgium by Germany, in violation of the common
rights of man, the Battle of the Frontier (also called the Battle of Charleroi)
was fought in August, 1914, on the line indicated by Mons, Charleroi, Dinant,
St. Hubert, Longwy, Metz.

14
PART
HISTORICAL
On the 22nd to the 24th of August, 1914, in-
clusive, this Allied offensive failed at Charleroi,
consequence of which the French Com-
mander-in-Chief, General Joffre, broke off con-
tact with the enemy and ordered a general re-
treat.
It was impossible to do otherwise, as the
enemy forces were greatly superior in numbers.
Moreover, they were well equipped with powerful
artillery and machine-guns, whereas he Franco-
British forces were short of both. The German
soldier had long been trained in trench warfare,
whereas the Allies had yet to learn this
To readjust the balance between the op-
posing forces, Joffre fell back in the direction
of the French reserves.
Maunoury
The respite thus afforded was utilized to re-
arrange the commands and train the reserves in the form of warfare adopted
by the Germans. Meanwhile, the latter greatly extended their line of com-
munications.
Then began that heroic retreat, without precedent in history, which
attained a depth of 122 miles, and in the course of which the Allied
soldiers, greatly fatigued, marched as much as thirty miles a day, fre-
quently facing about to meet a counter attack in which they were generally
successful.
The Germans followed, overrunning the country like a plague of locusts.
Using their left wing as a pivot, their right undertook a vast turning movement
taking in Valenciennes, Cambrai, Péronne and Amiens.
By August 27th, Joffre had prepared a plan to take the offensive
again at the first opportunity. In executing this plan an important mass
of troops, under the orders of General Maunoury, was formed on the French
left.
General Maunoury was to outflank at a given moment the German right
wing, while at the same time a general attack, or at least unflinching resistance,
was to be made along the rest of the front.
This was the Allies' reply to the turning movement of the German General
Von Klück.
A first line of resistance offered itself on the River Somme, where fierce
fighting took place. It was, however, realized that the battle front could
not be reformed there successfully. Joffre sought a flanking position not
only for his left wing, but also for his right, which the Somme line did not
offer. He therefore continued the withdrawal of the whole front toward
the river Marne and Paris.
On September 3rd, German cavalry patrols were signalled at Ecouen,
only 8 miles from the gates of Paris. The inhabitants of the city were
asking themselves anxiously whether they, too, would not have to face the
horrors of a German occupation. The suspense was cruel. Fortunately, a
great man was silently watching over their destinies-General Gallieni.
This great soldier had just been made Military Governor of Paris,
with General Maunoury's Army under his orders. The entrenched camp
of Paris and this army were, in turn, under the authority of the French
Commander-in-Chief, Joffre, who thus had full liberty of action from Paris to
Verdun.
On September 3rd, General Gallieni issued his stirring proclamation, which
put soldiers and civilians alike on their mettle:
"Armies of Paris! Inhabitants of Paris! The Government of the Republic
has left Paris to give a new impulse to the National Defence. I have
received orders to defend Paris against invasion. I shall do this to the
end."
The temptation to push straight on to the long-coveted capital must
have been very great for the German High Command. However, in view

HISTORICAL PART
15
of the danger presented by the Franco-British
forces, which were still unbroken, it was event-
ually decided first to crush the Allied armies,
and then to march on Paris, which would fall
like "a ripe pear.
Seemingly ignorant of Maunoury's existence,
Von Klück's Army slanted off eastward, in
pursuit of the British force, which it had received
orders from the Kaiser to exterminate and which
it had been harrying incessantly during its retreat
from the Belgian frontier.
There will probably be heated arguments for
many years to come as to whether the German
High Command was right or wrong in giving
up the direct advance on Paris, but whatever
Gallieni
the consensus of expert opinions on the point
may eventually be, one thing is certain: Von
Klück did not expect the furious attack by the
Army of Paris, which followed.
Later, he declared: “There was only one general who, against all rules,
would have dared to carry the fight so far from his base; unluckily for me,
that was Gallieni."
On September 3rd, thanks to the Flying Corps, General Gallieni learned
of the change of direction taken by Von Klück's Army. Realizing the possi-
bilities which this offered, he suggested a flank attack by the Army of Paris.
As previously mentioned, such an attack, forming part of Joffre's general plan,
matured on August 27th. It was, however, necessary, that the attack should
not be merely a local and temporary success, as would have been the case
on the Somme line for instance, where the remainder of the front was not in a
favorable position for resistance or attack.
On September 4th, after conferring with General Gallieni, Joffre decided
that conditions were favorable for a new offensive, and fixed on September
6th as the date on which the decisive battle should be initiated along the whole
front.
Soissons
Reims
Meuse
Ourcq
VERDUNE
Marne
MAUNOURY
Chalons-sur-Marne
KRONPRINZ
PARIS
VON HAUSEN
SARRAIL
St Mini
Vow KLUCKI
Revigny
Bar-le-Duc
Coulommiers
VON BÜLOW
Estcrnaya
FOCH
Marais
o Sézanne
AKB. VON
WURTEMBERG
Ornain
FRENCH
Vitrate
St Dizier
DE LANGLE DE CARY
Seine
Provinso
FRANCHET
D'ESPEREY
Romilly
Auhe
Troyeso
Bar-sur-Aube
French positions on the 5th of September
German positions on the 5th of September

16
HISTORICAL PART
September 5, 1914
The map before you indicates the respective
positions occupied by the opposing armies on
the eve of the great battle, i. e. the 5th of Sep-
tember, 1914. The Allied forces are represented
by a thick black line, those of the Germans by a
black and white line.
Joffre directed the operations first from Bar-
sur-Aube, afterwards from Romilly.
The half-circle formed by the Allies, into which
the Germans imprudently penetrated, was sup-
ported at the western extremity by the en-
trenched camp of Paris; at the eastern extremity
by the fortified position of Verdun. The river
Marne flows midway between.
Von Klück
Although the battle was not to begin until
the 6th, General Maunoury's Army was engaged on the 5th. His orders
were to advance to the river Ourcq, but, despite furious fighting he was
unable to get there.
The British forces were to occupy a line running north-south, with Cou-
lommiers as a point of support. Unfortunately, the exceedingly fatiguing
retreat it had just accomplished, retarded the execution of the necessary
about face. This left them still far to the south of Coulommiers on the
5th.
The fact that neither of these two forces was able to take up its assigned
position, greatly increased the difficulties of the turning movement planned
by Joffre.
In front of the forces under Maunoury and French were the right and
centre of the 1st German Army under Von Klück.
The 5th French Army, under General Franchet d'Esperey, whose positions
extended from the north of Provins to Sézanne, delivered a frontal attack
against the left wing of Von Klück's Army and the right wing of the 2nd
German Army under Von Bülow.
At the right of Franchet d'Esperey's Army was the 9th French Army
under General Foch, whose task it was to cover his neighbor on the left
by holding the issues south of the Marshes of St. Gond.
Opposing Foch were the left of Von Bülow's Army and the right of the
3rd German Army commanded by Von Hausen.
The 4th French Army, under General Langle de Cary, was minus two
army corps which had helped to form Foch's Army. This diminution of
the forces of the 4th Army prevented the latter from breaking off contact
with the enemy. While, at the extreme left, General Maunoury had already
begun his advance towards the river Ourcq, General Langle de Cary received
orders to hold up the opposing forces under the Duke of Würtemberg. Un-
fortunately, Langle de Cary's forces had not sufficient liberty of movement
to effect the necessary about face.
At the extreme right of the Allied front was the 3rd French Army, under
General Sarrail, established in positions extending from the north-east
of Revigny to Verdun, with a reserve group to the west of Saint-Mihiel,
to be moved either east or west, according to circumstances.
The forces opposing General Sarrail were commanded by the future "War-
Lord," the Crown Prince.
While the French were preparing to thrust back the invader, "War
Lord number 2," drunk with victory, ordered the pursuit to be continued
as far as the line Dijon-Besançon-Belfort: triumphal dreams destined to
give place, first to surprise, then to uncertainty, and finally to the bitterest
defeat.
Posterity will compare this arrogant order of the Crown Prince's with the
stirring proclamation which Joffre issued to the whole of the French Army
on the eve of the great battle:

HISTORICAL PART
17
"On the eve of the
battle on which the
future of our Country
depends, it is important
to remind all that there
must be no looking back.
Every effort must be
made to attack and
drive back the enemy.
Troops which can no
longer advance must at
all costs keep the ground
they have won, and die
rather than fall back.
Under the present cir-
French
Douglas Haig
cumstances, no weak-
ness can be tolerated."
September 6, 1914
On this and the succeeding maps, the Allied positions of the previous evening
and at the end of the next day are shown.
The German positions are not shown, as too many lines might create con-
fusion in reading the maps.
Maunoury's Army effected an advance of about 6 miles, but his left was
unable to accomplish its task, which was to outflank the German right. Von
Klück who, till then, had seemed to ignore Maunoury, and had concentrated
all his efforts against the British and Franchet d'Esperey's Army, now per-
ceived this manoeuvre. With that promptitude and audacity which par-
ticularly marked his character, he conpletely changed his plans and rounded
on Maunoury. Taking advantage of the state of extreme fatigue of the
British forces, Von Klück withdrew one of the army corps which were fac-
ing them and despatched it by forced marches to the help of his right wing.
It was these unexpected reinforcements which enabled Von Klück to hold
up Maunoury's left.
On this day the British Army finally recovered itself and reached a line
running from the north-west to the south-east of Coulommiers.
Suissons
Reims
Ourcq
VERDUN
Marne
MAUNOURY
KRONPRINZ
Meaux
VON KLUCK
PARIS
Châlons-sur-Marne
Montmirail VON HAUSEN
Marais
ALB. VON
Revigno
VON BÜLOW
WURTEMBERG
SARRAIL
St Mihis
Coulommiers
Bar-le-Duc
FRENCH
Esternayo
BRANCHET
D'ESPEREY
Vitry-le-FPTOE LANGLE
DE CARY St Dizter
Ornain
Seine
Provinso
Romilly
Troyes
Positions on the 5th of eptember
Positions on the 6th of September

18
PART
HISTORICAL
The armies of Generals Franchet d'Esperey and
Foch fought with great stubbornness. The former
wrested several dominating positions from the
Germans and approached Esterney, but the latter
was only able to maintain himself on the line of
resistance assigned to him south of the Marshes of
Saint Gond.
General Langle de Cary was eventually able to
hold up the bulk of the troops under the Duke
of Würtemberg on positions extending from the
south-west of Vitry-le-François to Revigny.
The general plan of operations included an attack
by the 3d Army, under General Sarrail, against
the German left wing, such attack to coincide
with that of General Maunoury at the other end
Franchet D'Esperey
of the line. This attack was, however, anticipated
by the Germans who, under the Crown Prince and in far greater numbers,
forced back Sarrail's left and prevented all progress on his right.
September 7, 1914
On September 7th Maunoury's army began to feel the effects of the Ger-
man heavy artillery, established out of range of the French 75's, and could
therefore advance but very slowly.
However, at the end of the day, Maunoury still hoped to be able to out-
flank the German right. Meanwhile, Von Klück continued his risky man-
oeuvre, and detached a second army corps from the forces opposed to the
British, adding it to his right. Each was endeavoring to outflank the other.
Fronting the British there was now only a thin curtain of troops taken
from two of the German army corps opposed to Franchet d'Esperey.
This small force fought stubbornly, in order, if possible, to give Von Klück
time to crush Maunoury before the advance by the British and Franchet
d'Esperey could become really dangerous.
Soissons
Reims
Ourcq
Meuse
VERDUNE
Marne
MAUNOURY
NON KLUCK
Ford Troyon
Châlons-sur-Marne
Meaux
PARIS
KRONPRINZ
VON HAUSEN
C
FRENCH MODA
St Miho
VON BÜLOW
Montmirail
Marais
SARRAIL
ALB. VON
WURTIMBERG
Revignyo
Coulommiers
Bar-le-Duc
FRANCHETtunay
VD'ESPERE
Suzanne
FOCH
Vitry-le-F
Dizier
Ornam
Provinso
DE LANGDEN DE CARY
OST
Romilly
Seine
Positions on the 6th of September
Positions on the 7th of September

HISTORICAL PART
19
The meager progress effected in the British
sector is explained by the extreme fierceness of the
struggle.
General Franchet d'Esperey took advantage of
the reduction of the forces opposed to him; pushing
the latter back vigorously he continued his advance
northward, eventually reaching and crossing the
river Grand Morin.
This advance helped to lessen the effects of the
furious attacks which the Germans were then mak-
ing against General Foch's Army.
In front of the latter, Von Bülow, whose armies
were still intact, realised the danger which threat-
ened Von Klück, and, in order to avert it, endeavored
to pierce the French front. He concentrated the
Von Bülow
whole of his efforts against the 42nd Division, under
General Grossetti, whose arduous mission it was to
maintain the connection between the 5th and 9th Armies, under Franchet
d'Esperey and Foch respectively.
A terrific struggle followed, the result of which was that Grossetti was
forced to fall back. Fortunately, the right of Franchet d'Esperey's Army was
able, thanks to its advance, to come to the rescue, and prevented the French
front from being pierced.
Before Von Hausen the whole line fell back slightly.
Meanwhile, the Duke of Würtemberg and the Crown Prince attacked
fiercely at the junction of the 4th and 3rd French armies under Langle de
Cary and Sarrail respectively.
The aim of the attack was to separate these two armies and force what
is known as the Revigny Pass. The latter is a hollow in which flow the rivers
Ornain and Saulx, and the canal from the Marne to the Rhine.
While the Germans under the Duke of Würtemberg attacked the right
of Langle de Cary's army, in the direction of Saint Dizier, the Crown Prince
sought to drive back General Sarrail's left towards Bar-le-Duc.
The resistance of Langle de Cary's army began to weaken under the weight
of the greater opposing forces. On the other hand, General Sarrail's army
had been reinforced by an army corps sent by Joffre, and stood firm. At
this juncture General Sarrail learned that the Germans were getting very
active in his rear, on the heights above the river Meuse, and he was accord-
ingly obliged to make dispositions to avoid being surprised by German forces
which were preparing to cross the river.
September 8, 1914
During the night of the 7th-8th of September, Gallieni, who had been care-
fully following the different phases of the battle, despatched a division from
Paris, in all haste, to Maunoury's left, to help turn the German right.
To do this with maximum rapidity Gallieni made use of an ingenious
expedient, "a civilian's idea," as he termed it. He commandeered all the
taxicabs in Paris. Those running in the streets were held up by the police,
and the occupants made to alight. When the latter learned the reason, instead
of grumbling, they gave a rousing cheer. Eleven hundred taxis made the
journey twice during the night from Paris to the front, transporting in all
eleven thousand men.
Unfortunately, the effect of these reinforcements was fully counterbalanced
by the troops which Von Klück had brought up on the two previous days
from before the British front, and only the extreme tenacity and courage
of his troops enabled Maunoury to avoid being outflanked.
However, Von Klück could not with impunity reduce his forces opposed
to the British. The latter pulled themselves together, crossed the Petit
Morin river and reached La Ferté-sous-Jouarre.
The danger feared by the German generals became apparent.

20
HISTORICAL PART
On this day, Sep-
tember 8th, a German
officer wrote in his
note-book :
“ Caught
sight of Von Klück.
His eyes, usually so
bright, were dull. He,
who was wont to be
so alert, spoke in
dejected tones. He
was absolutely de-
pressed."
At the right of the
British Army, General
Franchet d'Esperey
Foch
continued his rapid ad-
Von Hausen
vance, and occupied
the outskirts of Montmirail.
Moreover, his troops co-operated efficiently in helping to check the violent
attacks of Von Bülow's Army against Grossetti's Division.
The Germans became more and more anxious—and rightly so-at the turn
events were taking on their right, where Von Klück's army was beginning
to be tightly squeezed between the armies of General Maunoury, the British
and General Franchet d'Esperey. Von Klück was forced to retreat and,
in doing so, left exposed Von Bülow's Army. The armies of Von Bülow and
Von Hausen received orders to crush Foch and break through the French
center at all costs, so as to be able to turn Franchet d'Esperey's army on the
west and that of Langle de Cary on the east.
The position indicated, if the manoeuvre succeeded, Joffre's entire plan
would fall to pieces. If, on the other hand, it failed, a general retreat on the
part of the Germans would be inevitable.
Foch's Army received a terrible blow; was forced back in the center and
almost pierced on the right. However, Foch in no wise lost confidence, but
pronounced the situation to be “excellent." The fact was he clearly realized
that these furious attacks were dictated by the desperate position in which the
Germans found themselves. He rallied his troops, hurled them again against
the Germans, but was unable to win back the ground which he had just lost.
Soissons
o Reims
Meuse
Qurca
VERDUNO
MAUNOURY
Marne
VON KLÜCK
KRONPRINZ
Meaux Ladely
PARIS
Coulommiers
FRENCH
Morina
Forn de Troyon
VON BÜLOW
Châlons-sur-Marmop
ALB. VON
VON HAUSEN
St Miho
FRANCHET
Montmirail
WURJEMBERG Revigny
Marais
D'ESPERY
Bar-le-Duc
Vitry-le-Fy
Esternayo
Sezanne
St Dizier
SARRAIL
FOCHI
Ornain
DE LANGLE DE CARY
Seine
Provinso
Romilly
Troyes
Positions on the 7th of September
Positions on the 8th of September

HISTORICAL PART
21
Von Hausen's fierce thrust also made itself felt on
Langle de Cary's left; the connection between the
latter's army and Foch's was in great danger of being
severed, and could only be maintained by the rapid
displacement of troops and by the intervention of a
new army corps despatched by Joffre just in time
to restore the balance. While Von Hausen was strik-
ing on the left, the Duke of Würtemberg brought
all his weight to bear on Langle de Cary's right, the
Crown Prince executing a similar manoeuvre against
Sarrail's left. The German plan was still the same,
viz: to separate the two armies and, if possible, iso-
late Sarrail's army, which would find itself encircled
and be forced to surrender. Sarrail attacked at the
same time, in the rear, on the heights above the
Meuse, where the Germans had begun to bombard
the fort of Troyon.
De Langle De Cary
September 9, 1914
On September 9th the battle reached its culminating point along the whole
front. Under pressure from the right wing of Maunoury's army, and before the
menacing advance of the British forces which had reached Château-Thierry,
the Germans were obliged to withdraw from both banks of the river Ourcq.
In order to make this retreat easier along the banks of the Ourcq, Von
Klück, at the end of the day, caused an extremely fierce attack to be made
against the French left, which bent beneath the shock and was almost
turned.
At that time the situation was truly extraordinary: the Germans were already
retreating, while the French, stunned by the blow they had just received, were
in anxious doubt whether the morrow would not bring them disaster.
The struggle seemed so hopeless that orders were asked for, in view of a possible
retreat on Paris. However, General Gallieni refused to consider this possibility
and faithful to Joffre's instructions gave orders to “die rather than give way.
Maunoury's left continued therefore its heroic resistance.
Soissons
Reims
Ourca
VERDUM
VON KLUCK
MAUNOURY
Marne
FRANCHET
ESPEREY
Meaux
PARIS
KRONPRINZ
Forte Troyon
Château-
Thierry
WON BULOW VON HAUSEN
Châlons-sur-Marne
ALB. VON
Montrail
WURTTEMBERG Revigny
Marais
Vitry-le-F
Esternayo
Sindizier
Z
SARRAIL
FRENCH
St Mihigo
Coulommierso
Bar-le-Duc
FOCH
Sezanne
Ornain
Seine
DE LANGLE DE CARY
Provins
Romilly
Troyes
Positions on the 8th of September
Positions on the 9th of September

22
HISTORICAL PART
This time, Von Klück's retreat along the
Ourcq left Von Bülow's army completely un-
protected, and the latter was in turn obliged
to give way before Franchet d'Esperey's left.
The latter continued to co-operate actively in
the heroic resistance of the French center, by
taking in the flank the enemy forces which were
furiously attacking Foch. The latter became
the objective of the last and most furious at-
tacks of Von Bülow and Von Hausen, who real-
izing that, should they fail, they would be
forced to continue the retreat begun on their
right, decided to make one more attempt to
crush in the French center.
They very nearly succeeded; all along the
line the French were forced to fall back and
the southern boundary of the Marshes of Saint
Grossetti
Gond was entirely abandoned.
The position to the east of Sézanne seemed hopeless. It was there that
the loss of ground was most dangerous, and it is here necessary to explain
in detail this critical phase of the battle. On the large-scale map before
the reader are shown the positions of Foch's left and center on the 8th and
9th of September.
It was in the region of Villeneuve and Soisy that General Grossetti's di-
vision had just fought so heroically for four days. Absolutely decimated, it
was replaced on the morning of the 9th by one of the neighboring army
corps under Franchet d'Esperey. This corps advanced during the day but
further to the right, the Germans forced back the French from the woods
of Botrait and from the Crest of the Poirier, and captured the heights of
Mondement.
Mondement is situated on a narrow plateau, the last counterfort before
reaching the vast plain of the Aube. On the opposite side of this plateau
are to be seen the villages of Allemant and Broyes.
If the Germans, in possession of Mondement, had succeeded in reaching
these two villages on the day of the 9th, they would have attacked in the rear
those forces under Foch which were fighting in the plain. Mondement had there-
fore to be held at all costs.
The battle pivoted on this
axis. In accordance with
Foch's instructions, the
Moroccan division under
Marais de St Gond
General Humbert was placed
there, and, with the help Soizye Chute du Poirier
Oyes
of the 77th infantry, not La Villenenve
only held its ground but
Reuves,
recaptured the Castle
during the day and forced
Mondemente
the Germans back on
the Marshes in the evening.
At the foot of the vil-
lages of Allemant and
Broyes the vast plain of
the Aube spreads itself
Pease
out, and it was there that
St Loup
Vinthes
things were going badly
PLAINE
with Foch, the loss of Sézanned
ground there being ser-
Linthelles
ious. The Colonials under
General Humbert, who
were hanging on grimly to
Plears
the plateau
plateau of Monde-
Bois de Botrait
Broyes Allemant
Mont Chalmont
L'AUBE
DIVISION
GROSSETTI
POSITIONS ON THE B OF SEPTEMBER:
POSITIONS ON THE 9 OF SEPTEMBER

HISTORICAL PART
23
ment, could see their comrades on the right falling
back as far as Mount Chalmont, while the enemy fire
reached successfully Linthes and Pleurs.
If the center had given way completely, the de-
fenders of Mondement would have been taken in
the rear and obliged to abandon the plateau. In
other words, it would have meant complete defeat.
To avert this terrible danger, Foch had only
Grossetti's Division, which had been decimated by
four days of the fiercest fighting and which he had
that morning taken from his left wing and sent to
the rear to rest.
Foch recalled this division and hurled it against
the most critical point of his line between Linthes
and Pleurs. He hoped it would be in a position
Albert Von Würtemberg to attack about noon, but at 3 in the afternoon
it had not yet been reformed. These were hours
of mortal suspense along the whole front.
General Grossetti needed all his energy to reform the scattered units of
his division; and his men, who were on their way to the rear to rest when
they were again ordered into the thick of the battle, had need of superhuman
courage to carry out the long fatiguing flank march of 12 miles, which was to
bring them that afternoon to Foch's centre.
Finally, at about 4 in the afternoon, Grossetti appeared on the scene, and
the situation rapidly changed.
With what feelings of intense relief the defenders of Mondement must
have seen Grossetti's men moving eastward to the attack and driving back
again behind Mount Chalmont the Germans, who were literally demoralized
by this unexpected arrival of reinforcements.
The objective of Grossetti's attack was the junction of the armies of Von
Bülow and Von Hausen, viz: the weakest point of the German front.
The German generals had at that time nothing with which to counter this
last effort of Foch's; realizing that the battle was indeed lost, they began to
make preparations for retreat.
Just as Franchet d'Esperey had supported Foch energetically on his
Soissons
Reims
VON KLÜCK
Ourcq VON BÜLOW
VERDUNE
MAUNQURY
Marne
FACHET
Chateau-Thior D'ESPEREY
BON HAUSEN
Meuse
Châlons-sur-Marne
Meaux
PARIS
KRONPRINZ
FRENCH
St Miho
Montmirailo
ALB. VON
WURTEMBERG Revignyo
( Marais
Coulommierso
SARRAIL
Bar-le-Duc
Vitry-le-F
Sézannco
FOCH
St Dizier
Ornain
DE LANGLE DE CARY
Provinso
Romilly
Seine
Troyes
Positions on the 9th of September
Positions on the 10th of September

24
PART
HISTORICAL
left, so, throughout
this fateful day,
Langle de Cary help-
ed him not less
effectually on his
right, where he vio-
lently attacked Von
Hausen. However,
in the center and on
the right, the troops
of Langle de Cary
could not do more
than hold their herpnials
ground against the
furious attacks of the
Duke of Würtem-
Sarrail
berg's army:
Crown Prince
Sarrail, in turn,
supported Langle de Cary, by operating with his left against the flank of the
German forces which were pressing that Commander. Meanwhile, his right
was in a critical position, owing to operations in his rear by German forces
on the heights above the Meuse. In spite of the danger, and although he had
been authorized by the Commander-in-Chief to withdraw his right so as to
escape this menace, Sarrail clung with dogged tenacity to Verdun; he would
not abandon his positions so long as the Meuse had not been crossed and
while there was still the slightest hope of being able to hold out.
September 10 to 13, 1914
The morning of the 10th witnessed a theatrical change of scene on the
French left, where it will be remembered Maunoury's army was in a most
critical position. After a night of anxious suspense, it was seen that the
Germans had abandoned their positions, and were retreating hastily toward
the north-east, to avoid being caught in the pincer-like jaws formed by the
Franco-British forces the previous day.
OSoissons
Reimso
Ourcq
VERDUN
Marne
Meuse
Chalons-sur-Marne
PARIS
Meaux
St Mihigo
Montmirailo
Revigny
Bar-le-Duc
Coulommiers
Esternayo
Vitry-le-F
OSézanne
Ornain
St Dizier
Seine
Provinso
Romilly
Troyes
Positions on the 5th of September
Positions on the 13th of September

HISTORICAL PART
25
Paris was saved! France was saved! as Von Klück's retreat carried away
Von Bülow's army with it, and Franchet d'Esperey crossed the Marne. Von
Hausen's right followed suit, pursued by Foch. The troops of the former
had crossed the Marshes of St. Gond during the night to avoid disaster.
Langle de Cary precipitated the retreat of Von Hausen's army. His right,
still under heavy pressure, was however, obliged to fall back. Here the Ger-
mans were only held up by the increasingly effectual help rendered by Sarrail's
army. The latter withstood the furious attacks of the Crown Prince without
Ainching, while on the heights above the Meuse, the fort of Troyon, the heroic
defence of which has since become famous, withstood the terrible onslaughts
of the enemy forces, which sought to cross the river.
It was on the 11th that the Duke of Würtemberg followed the retreat
begun on his right the day before, and it was only during the night of the
12th to the 13th that the German retreat became general.
On the 13th, the Germans reached their line of resistance, and as will be
seen by reference to the map, their front extended from Soissons to Verdun,
passing by Rheims. This map also shows the positions at the beginning
of the battle.
The foregoing sketch gives a general idea of the character of this great
battle, which has been called, "The Miracle of the Marne,” and for the win-
ning of which the following factors were responsible: firmness on the part of
the Commander-in-Chief; the clear and well-laid plan which he caused to be
executed by highly capable army commanders working in close collabora-
tion with one another; and above all, the superhuman courage and endurance
of the soldiers.
As time passes, these memorable days stand out more and more gloriously.
The study in detail of this stupendous event will continue for centuries.
But its main lines, which we have been at pains to trace, already stand out
clearly. They recall all the old French traditions. The clearness of the plan,
the suppleness of manoeuvre, and the bold use of the reserves, remind one
of the Napoleonic era. The enthusiasm which galvanized soldiers and chiefs
alike, dates back to the Revolution. And going back into the remote past,
it was the remembrance of the arresting on the soil of Gaul of the great bar-
barian invasions, which inspired the Victory of the Marne.
MARSHAL JOFFRE
The Battle of the Marne
PART II.-TOURISTS' SECTION
For the convenience of tourists this Guide has been separated into three
sub-divisions as follows:
1st-THE OURCQ.- Visit to Chantilly, Senlis and Meaux.
2d –THE MARSHES OF SAINT GOND.- Visit to Coulommieres,
Provins and Sézanne.
3d -THE REVIGNY PASS.–Visit to Châlons-sur-Marne, Vitry-le-
François and Bar-le-Duc.
These correspond to the three main sectors of the battle.
THE BATTLE OF THE MARNE
ITINERARY FOR MOTORISTS AND
MOTORCYCLISTS
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
This tour is comprised in the section 11-12 of the Michelin map, Scale: 200-
000 (see scale of kilometres on French map). One kilometre equals 62-100 of a mile.
The circuit is about 527 miles and can be covered in 6 days, i. e. 2 days
for each part:
Ourcq;
Marshes of Saint Gond;
Pass of Revigny.
I. OURCQ.
1st day.--Leaving Paris in the morning through the Porte de la Cha-
pelle by N. 1 we cross Saint Denis, then passing Pierrefitte turn to the right
by N. 16 which leads straight to Chantilly (21 miles from the gates of Paris)
through Écouen, Le Mesnil-Aubry and Luzarches.
We visit the town (see p. 35-49). Lunch either at Chantilly (palatial hotel)
or at Senlis (good hotel) 512 miles from Chantilly. Afternoon, visit Senlis
(p. 52-80); dine and sleep at Senlis or Chantilly.
Tourists who wish to see the whole of the castle and parlc of Chantilly must
choose a Thursday, Saturday or Sunday (sce p. 44) and devote a part of the
afternoon to this visit.
2nd day.—Leave Senlis or Chantilly in the morning and reach Meaux
by the route given on p. 81-88. The distance from Senlis is about 40 miles
(by the direct route only 23 miles). Lunch at Meaux (good hotel).
Afternoon.—The tour of the Ourcq as indicated on p. 98-133. This tour
may be increased from 33 to about 57 miles, according to the time the traveller
has at his disposal or the speed of his car.
Dine and sleep at Meaux.
Alternate routes.—Tourists who consider the second day's distance, as
planned above, too great, can leave Senlis in the afternoon and thus dine
and sleep at Meaux on the first day. They can visit Meaux in the morning of
the second day, lunch there and make the tour of the Ourcq in the afternoon,
returning to dine and sleep at Meaux.
II. MARSHES OF SAINT GOND.
3rd day.—After following the course of the Grand Morin as far as La
Ferté-Gaucher via Crécy, Couilly and Coulommiers, the tourist will lunch
at Provins. In the afternoon he may visit the town, after which he will proceed
to Sézanne to pass the night.
30
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
4th day.--In the morning make the tour of the Marshes of Saint-Gond.
In the afternoon proceed to Fère-Champenoise, Sommesous, ascending the
valley of the Somme and spend the night at Châlons-sur-Marne.
III. PASS OF REVIGNY, 182 MILES.
5th day.-In the morning cover the distance from Châlons to Vitry-le-
François and visit this last town before lunch.
After lunch leave Vitry for Bar-le-Duc, where the tourist can dine and
sleep.
6th day.--In the morning the tourist will visit the lower town of Bar-le-
Duc and will effect the circular tour which we indicate around the town. He
will come back to Bar-le-Duc for lunch.
In the afternoon visit the upper town, proceeding thence to Verdun. In
visiting Verdun and the surrounding battlefields it will be helpful to use the
separate guide which will be published specifically for this purpose.
IMPORTANT NOTE
For details concerning hotels and garages see insides of cover.
PLAN OF TOUR DESCRIBED IN THE PRESENT GUIDE
AISNE
OISE
D. 661
In 21 Senlis
D 116
OURCQ
16
Bril
p. 212
VERDUN
Charlilly
MIRNI
Souilly
C
PARIS
2.198
Chalons-sur-Mhroeg
Micaux....
Sommcilles
Crécy-en-Brie
Chanipaulric Oferice.gv
1117
122
Hciltz-IC-M1
Morsas
Coulommiers
I... Il retr.
218 € Vitry-
Gllolyor
7.5810
SommisOUS
Sezanne
varincourt
Bar-le-Duc
1239
WEUSE
Trois-Fontaines
0128€Provins
SEINE
On the above plan, towns of which maps are to be found in this guide, are
indicated by a circle enclosed in a square; the large rectangles indicate the
boundaries of the colored maps inserted in the guide, from which the reader
will' be able to follow the itinerary.
I.
THE OURCQ
I.-THE OURCQ
VISIT TO THE LOCALITIES
in which were enacted the preliminary
scenes of the
BATTLE OF THE OURCQ
from the first to the fifth of
September, 1914
CHANTILLY
(See map on next page.)
ORIGIN AND MAIN HISTORICAL FACTS
Chantilly derives its name from that of the Gallo-Roman Cantilius, who
was the first to establish himself in the locality. The Castle (a fortress during
the Middle Ages) passed to the family of Montmorency in the xvth century
and in the xviith to that of Condé. These two illustrious families brought
Chantilly to a height of splendor which made it a rival of the royal residences.
In 1830 the Duc d'Aumale succeeded the last of the Condés and at his death
(1897) bequeathed the domain, with the Condé Museum, which he had in-
stalled in the Castle (see p. 37-48), to the “Institut de France."
The town itself, built in the xviith century, was for a long time dependent
on the Castle. In our day it has become a big centre for horse training and
racing. The great race meetings in May, July and September attract immense
crowds.
CHANTILLY IN 1914-1916
The Germans, coming from Creil, entered Chantilly on the 3rd of Sep-
tember, 1914 and occupied it for several days. The Mayor was at once seized
as hostage but did not suffer the same tragic fate as the Mayor of Senlis.
The troops were billeted at the Castle (sec p. 41).
After the victory of the Marne, Chantilly became the seat of General
Joffre's headquarters and remained so until the end of 1916.
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CHANTILLY
35
Visit to the Town
Arriving by the Paris road, the tourist will pass under the railway bridge,
then 600 yards further on turn to the right and come out on to the "Pelouse" (lawn).
Turning round the Grand Condé Hotel on the left, he follows the Boulevard d'Aumale.
as far as the Maison de Joffre, shown in the photograph below.
Joffre Leaving General Headquarters
Joffre lived here until he was made Marshal of France.
The hundreds of officers and secretaries employed in the tremendous work
incumbent on the Generalissimo were lodged in the Grand Condé hotel, near
which the tourist has just passed. In contrast with this buzzing hive, Joffre's
house seemed the embodiment of silence and meditation.
Only two orderly officers lived with the Generalissimo and his door was
strictly forbidden to all unsummoned visitors, whoever they might be.
On leaving his office Joffre had the daily relaxation of a walk in the forest
near by. It was thanks to the strict routine he subjected himself to that the Gen-
eralissimo was able to carry the crushing weight of his responsibility without
faltering. We shall see, however, when comparing the peace time photograph
given on p.1 with that on p. 35, that these years of war have counted as double.
During the tragic hours of the Marne the General Headquarters were first
at Bar-sur-Aube and then at Romilly. The commander-in-chief's intense
concentration of mind made him dumb and as though absent in the midst of
his colleagues, who received all his orders in writing. In a few days his hair
and moustache became perfectly white.
The Allies' grand councils of war were held in this house, which has counted
among its guests all the great actors of the war. The military functions were
held on the lawn. The photograph on the next page was taken during a
review.
After having seen Joffre's house we pass the few villas which separate it from
the Rue d'Aumale and bear to the right, skirting the lawn; we turn to the left
into the Avenue de Condé, then to the right into the Rue du Connétable. In
front of the "Grandes Ecuries" (great stables), which border the extreme
end of the road on the right, stands the equestrian statue of the Duc d'Au-
male, by Gérome (1899).

36
CHANTILLY
Joffre Holding a Review on the Lawn
Leaving the Church we turn to the right, passing through the Monumental
Gateway, and go toward the Castle. On the lawn (still keeping to the right) we
come to the principal facade of the “Grandes Écuries,” Jean Aubert's
chef d'oeuvre, built between 1719 and 1740. They are seen on the right in the
above photograph.
On the opposite side of the Lawn stands a little Chapel, erected in 1535,
by the High Constable Anne de Montmorency, at the same time as six others
dotted here and there about Chantilly, in memory of the seven churches of Rome
which he had visited in order to obtain the indulgences pertaining to this pil-
grimage. He obtained the same grant from the Pope for the chapels of Chantilly.
Of these only two now remain, that on the Lawn-Sainte Croix, and an-
other in the park—Saint Paul.
The photograph below gives a view of the whole of the castle. The little
Castle dates from the xvith century; the big castle is the work of a contem-
porary architect, Daumet, who erected it on the basement of the old dwelling,
demolished during the Revolution. The Castle of Enghien, built in the
Great
Little Castle Chapel Castle
The Constable's
Terrace Porter's Lodge
Castle
of Enghien
Castle of Chantilly

CHANTILLY
37
xvinth century, is now occupied by the guardians entrusted with its preserva-
tion. The water surrounding the castle teems with centenarian carp. One
can get bread from the concierge and, on throwing a few crumbs into the moat
which passes beneath the entrance bridge, watch the onrush of the huge fish.
In the pages which follow we give a short historical account of the Castle,
referring the tourist for further details to the extremely interesting work of
the Curator, Mr. Gustave Macon: "Chantilly and the Condé Museum."
Short Historical Account of the Castle
In the Roman epoch Chantilly was the dwelling place of Cantilius. In the
Middle Ages it became a fortress belonging to the "Bouteiller" (cupbearer),
so named because of his hereditary functions at the court of the Capets.
(The "bouteiller de France," originally in charge of the king's cellars, became
one of the greatest counsellors of the Crown).
The castle then became the property of the d'Orgemonts, who rebuilt it
in the xivth century. In the xyth century it passed to the Montmorency
family. Towards 1528 the High Constable Anne de Montmorency had it
transformed by Pierre Chambiges. Chambiges' work no longer exists in
Chantilly, but the tourist will be able to judge of his talent when he sees the
beautiful façades of the transept of the cathedral of Senlis (p. 70). The
little castle was built thirty years later by Jean Bullant. From that time
Chantilly has been famous. Francis I often stayed there. Charles V declared
that he would give one of his Low Country provinces for such a residence.
Henry IV asked his "compère," the High Constable Henry, to exchange it
for any one of his royal castles. Montmorency, much embarrassed, extri-
cated himself from this awkward situation by answering, "Sire, the house is
yours, only let me be the lodge-keeper.'
Henry II of Montmorency, drawn into a revolt against Richelieu, died on the
scaffold in 1632. His property was confiscated and Louis XIII, attracted
by the hunting at Chantilly, kept the place for his personal use.
It was there that he drew up with his own hand the "communiqué" to the
press, concerning the taking of Corbie (1636): "The King received news, a
4 o'clock this morning, of the surrender of Corbie. He immediately went to church
to give thanks to God, then ordered all to be ready by 2 o'clock to sing the Te Deum,
the queen and everyone else to be present, and ordered despatches to be sent com-
manding thanksgiving services in all the churches of this kingdom.
In 1643, the queen, Anne of Austria, wishing to make some recognition for the
splendid victories won by the Duc d'Enghien (the future "Grand Condé") gave
Chantilly back to his mother, Charlotte de Montmorency. The latter, married
at fifteen, had been obliged to leave France with her young husband in 1609, to
escape from the attentions of Henry IV, still gallant despite his fifty-six years.
The Castle in the XVIIth Century

38
CHANTILLY
3310
Festivities at Chantilly in the XVIIIth Century

CHANTILLY
39
A gay life began again in Chantilly, interrupted in 1650 by the revolt of
Condé, his exile and the confiscation of the domain, which then returned
to Louis XIV until the Treaty of the Pyrénées (1659). The prince then
came into his own again, but for long kept aloof from public affairs and de-
voted himself to the embellishment of Chantilly with the same ardor and
mastery that he formerly gave to military operations.
In 1662, the transformation of the park and forest was placed in the hands
of the great architect, Le Nôtre. The work continued until 1684. The re-
sult was a masterpiece, of which a great part is still in existence but of which
the finest features (particularly the Great Cascades which spread over the
actual site of the town), disappeared during the Revolution. Below, we give
a view of these "jeux d'eau" (fountains), which were considered one of the
wonders of the day.
In 1671, Louis XIV spent three days at Chantilly, with all his court. Mar-
vellous festivities were held on this occasion. The guests of the chateau
alone filled sixty large tables; all the adjoining villages were full of officers
and courtiers, boarded and lodged at the prince's expense. In one of her
letters, Mme. de Sévigné tells of the tragic death of the superintendent, Vatel,
who had the responsibility of this vast organization. Desperate at the
thought that fish would be lacking at the king's table, he went up to his room,
placed his sword against the wall and transfixed himself upon it.
All the great men of the xviith century visited Chantilly. Bossuet, the
intimate friend of the great Condé, presented to him Fénélon and La Bruyère,
who became tutor to the Prince of Condé's grandson. Molière and his com-
pany came to play. (Condé was his patron, by whose intervention the pro-
duction of Tartufe was allowed). Boileau, Racine and La Fontaine were
habitual guests. The development of Chantilly continued under Condé's suc-
cessors. The castle was modified by Mansart. The Duc de Bourbon caused the
“Grandes Écuries" to be built by Jean Aubert. He established the manu-
facture of porcelain there (this disappeared in 1870), the remaining pieces of
which are greatly sought after in our day.
In 1722, Louis XV stayed at Chantilly on his way back from his corona-
tion at Rheims. The festivities lasted four days: 60,000 bottles of wine and
55,000 lbs. of meat were consumed.
It was Prince Louis-Joseph who saw the Revolution. He had spent enor-
mous sums in embellishing. Chantilly, besides the 25,000,000 francs which
th
The Old Cascades of Chantilly

40
CHANTILLY
it cost him to build the Palais Bourbon in Paris, the present seat of the Cham-
ber of Deputies. He erected the castle of Enghien, named after his grandson,
the Duc d'Enghien, who was the first to inhabit it. (Early marriages were
usual in these great families: at the birth of the Duc d'Enghien his father
was sixteen years old and his grandfather thirty-six.) The Due d'Enghien
died in 1804, shot in the moat of Vincennes.
The English garden and the Hamlet are due to Louis-Joseph.
In 1789, after the Prince of Condé had gone into exile, the Parisians came
and removed the cannon from the castle (see reproduction of engraving below,
in which the castle appears as altered by Mansart). Thirty guns taken from
the enemy during the Seven Years' War, which were never used except for
firing salutes during fêtes, were brought in triumph to the Hôtel de Ville in
Paris, whence La Fayette had them sent to the Arsenal.
The great cascades, the Menagerie, the Orangery and the Theatre disap-
peared during the revolutionary era. Of the great castle nothing remained but
the basement. The town grew and encroached on the park.
In 1814, the Prince de Condé returned to Chantilly and commenced the
restoration of the domain, a work continued by his son. This young man came
to a tragic end in 1830, when he was found hanging from the fastening of a
window in his castle of Saint Leu. With him died the great family of Condé.
In his will he bequeathed Chantilly to one of his great-nephews, Henry
of Orleans, Duc d'Aumale, fifth son of King Louis Philippe. After dis-
tinguishing himself in the Algerian campaign, where he carried off the Smalah
of Abd-el-Kader in 1843, the Duc d'Aumale was exiled in 1848. He established
himself at Orleans House, at Twickenham, near London, where he remained
until 1871. It was during that time that he began the splendid collections
which later went to enrich the Condé Museum. On his return to France
he presided at the tribunal entrusted with the trial of Marshal Bazaine.
In order to house his collections, the Duc d'Aumale had the big castle re-
built on plans made by the architect Daumet, from 1875 to 1882.
He died in 1897, bequeathing to the "Institut de France" the domain of
Chantilly and the Condé Museum, of which he was the founder:
The Parisians at Chantilly in 1789

CHANTILLY
41
Picture Gallery where the Germans Slept (in 1914)
The Castle in 1914
About 500 Germans stayed at the castle for 24 hours. These reserve troops
had not yet fought and did not take part in the battle. They committed
no excesses during their short stay. The great moral firmness shown by
the curators, Messrs. Élie Berger and Macon, had great influence on the
conduct of the German soldiers. The troops were lodged in the big castle.
The officers established themselves in the various suites of the small castle.
The curators had sent the gems of the collection to Paris and sheltered as
many of the works of art as possible in the basement. This proceeding
5 느
​Picture Gallery (in 1917)

42
CHANTILLY
caused some ill humour on the part of the German officer in command. As
seen in the photograph, page 41, straw was spread in the rooms of the Museum.
on which the Germans slept. At the end of the room Chapu's touching
"Jeanne d'Arc" overlooks the scene of desolation. The Germans were much
impressed by the copy of the Duc d'Aumale's tomb in the Museum, where he
is represented in the uniform of a divisional general. Many gave the mili-
tary salute when crossing the room. However, this did not prevent the
commandant from warning the curators that if his troops were fired on,
the castle would be burnt and they themselves shot.
Sylvie's House
If the tourist makes this journey on a day when the castle is closed, or if he has
not time to visit it, he will at least be able to glance at the charming corner of the
park where stands Sylvie's House. He need only take the path of Avilly (it
is the road which is on the right of the main entrance) and skirt the park railings.
After five minutes' walk he will reach the place from where the view below is taken.
He will return to the gates by the same road.
This little shooting lodge, at first called the "Park House," was built in
1604 by the High Constable Henry of Montmorency for King Henry IV.
Sylvie is the poetical name given by Théophile de Viau to his patroness
Marie Félicie Orsini, who in 1612, at the age of fourteen, married Henry II
of Montmorency, aged sixteen. The poet, Théophile de Viau, persecuted
in 1623 for the licentious publication of the Parnasse Satirique, was given
shelter at Chantilly and lodged in the Park House. Condemned to be burnt alive,
he was only executed in effigy through the intervention of the Montmorencys.
In his Ödes to the House of Sylvie, he extolled the grace and goodness of
the young duchess:
Mes vers promettent à Sylvie
Ce bruit charmeur que les neveux
Nomment une seconde vie.
The wish expressed by the poet in these lines was fulfilled and the name of
Sylvie became attached to the house and park surrounding it. The great
Sylvie's House and the Park

CHANTILLY
43
Condé rebuilt the house as it is today. (The rotunda seen in the photograph
page 42, was added by the Duc d'Aumale.)
In the xvIIIth century Sylvie's House was the scene of the romance of
Mlle. de Clermont and Louis de Melun. The head of the house of Montmo-
rency objected to the marriage of his sister, Mlle. de Clermont, with this noble-
man, whose rank he considered insufficient. The young girl disregarded
this and made a secret marriage, soon ended by the tragic death of Louis de
Melun, who was killed by a stag at bay in the course of a battue in Sylvie's
park. These various episodes in the history of Sylvie's House are recalled
in the paintings of Luc-Olivier Merson, installed by the Duc d'Aumale when
he turned the old house into a Museum.
Visit to the Castle
The CASTLE, SYLVIE'S HOUSE, the JEU DE PAUME and the “GRANDES
ÉCURIES” are open to the public from the 15th of April to the 14th of October:
1. On Sundays, Thursdays and legal holidays, from 1 to 5 p.m., free;
2. On Saturdays, the same hours, one franc charged for each visitor.
The PARK is open to the public all the year round on Thursdays, Sundays
and holidays: from 1 to 6 p. m., from the 15th of April to the 14th of October, and
till 4 p. m. for the rest of the year. The Condé Museum is extremely interesting
We advise tourists to obtain the guide book sold at the entrance, which gives all
useful information for the details of the visit. The plan on p. 44 makes it easy
to find one's way about the Museum. By following the numbering in this plan the
various rooms will be seen in the order in which they are marked in the guide book.
The several photographs which follow can give but a faint idea of the richness
and interest of the collections made by the Duc d'Aumale.
The following view shows the gallery of the Stags, formerly the dining room.
The picture on page 15 represents the magnificently carved and inlaid chest (the
work of Riesener, the great cabinet-maker), which stands in room 24 on plan p. 44.
The Duc d'Aumale gathered the gems of his collection together in the room
that he named the SANTUARIO (No. 19 in plan p. 44).
They are: THE VIRGIN by Raphael, described as “of the House of Orleans," hav-
ing belonged to that family for a very long time. This little panel, painted about
the year 1506, was bought for 160,000 francs in 1869. It is reproduced on p. 45.
allie
Gallery of the Stags
44
CHAN TILL Y
THE THREE GRACES, another small panel painted by Raphael at about the
same time as the Virgin, bought for 625,000 francs in 1885.
ESTHER AND AHASUERUS, panel of a marriage chest, executed by Filip-
pino Lippi, bought for 85,000 francs in 1892.
FORTY MINIATURES by Jehan Fouquet, taken from the Book of Hours,
by Estienne Chevalier. This leading work of the French school of the xvth
Century was acquired for the sum of 250.000 francs in 1891.
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Plan of Castle--Chantilly
28 Library.
29 Greal staircase.
30 Gallery of the Chapcl.
31 Chapel
1 Entrance,
2 Grand vestibule,
3 Gallery of the Stags.
4 Picture Gallery.
5 Rotunda of the Museum
(Senlis Tower).
0 Vestibule of the Museum.
7 Gallery of the House.
8 Small Gallery of the house.
9 Vestibule of the house.
10. The Smalah.
U The Mineruit Tower
(Tower of the High
Constable).
1. The Antiquily Room.
13 Giotto room.
6 Isabelle room.
15 Orleans room.
16 Caroline rooni.
17 Clouet room.
18 Psyche's Gallery,
19 Santuario.
20 Treasure Tower.
The Tribunt,
4) The alberoun.
23 Guardroom.
24 La Chambre.
2,5 The great study.
26 The Monkey parlor.
27 The Prince's gallery,
: Statue of the High Con-
slable.
B Entrance (portoullis).
( Court of honour.
D Court of the lillle castle.
E Flower garden of the
Aviary.

CHANTILLY
45
Chest by Riesener
We must also mention the collection of portraits painted or drawn in the
xyth and xvith centuries, divided between the Gallery of the House (7 on plan),
the Clouet room (17 on plan)
and the Gallery of Psyche (18
on plan). In the Gallery of
Psyche, the visitor will notice,
besides the pictures, the forty-
four xvith century windows,
representing the legend of Cupid
and Psyche. There is also a
cast of the head of Henry IV.
Lovers of jewels should visit
the treasure tower (20 on plan).
In the Monkey Parlor (26 on
plan) will be seen the screen
painted by Huet, representing
the Monkey's reading lesson,
and on the panels a charming
XVuth
century decoration,
attributed to the same painter.
In the Prince's Gallery (27 on
plan) the great Condé had a
series of pictures painted repre-
senting the battles he had
fought.
In the trophy containing his
sword and pistols there is also
a flag taken in the battle of
Rocroi in 1643. It is the oldest
standard captured from the
enemy that exists in France.
In the middle of the gallery
stands the Table of the
The Virgin of Orleans by Raphael
46
CHANTIL Y
l'inestock, carved out of one piece laken from an enormous vine, for the
Connétable de Montmorency.
In the modern chapel (31 on plan), the Duc d'Aumale placed a beautiful
altar, carved by Jean Goujon, also some xvith century wainscoting and
stained glass windows taken from the Chapel of the Castle of Ecouen.
In the apse stands the funeral urn which holds the hearts of the princes of
the House of Condé.
Visit to the Park
This takes from three-quarters of an hour to an hour and a guarier.
On coming out of the Museum, we cross the Terrasse du Connétable, in the
middle of which stands the equestrian statue of Anne de Montmorency,
by Paul Dubois (1886). Leaving the Château d'Enghien on the right we enter
the Covered Way by the avenue which passes before the little chapel of Saint
Paul. Saint Paul and Sainte Croix are all that remain of the seven chapels
erected by Anne de Montmorency (see p. 36). A little further on, on the left,
we come to the Cabotière, a building dating from the time of Louis XIII
It derives its name from that of the barrister Caboud, an enthusiastic ama-
teur horticulturist, who made a magnificent flower garden in the park for
the great Condé.
The avenue ends al SYLVIE'S HOUSE (see p. 42). In the interior can be
seen paintings, tapestries, pieces of furniture and beautiful paneling of the
xviith century, which have been placed in the rotunda. . From Sylvie's
House there is a lovely view of the pond and park (see p. 42).
Leaving Sylvie's House on the right we walk about 150 yds down the path
which skirts it, then turn to the left and follou the path which leads straight to
the HAMLET (view on p. 48).
The Hamlet, which recalls that of the Petit Trianon at Versailles, dates
from 1775. At this period, under the influence of J.-J. Rousseau's works,
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Plan of the Park

CHANTILLY
47
The Castle seen from the Flower Gardens
nature and country life became the fashion, and it was the correct thing
for princes to play at peasants in miniature villages.
An author of the xviiith century thus describes the Hamlet of Chantilly:
"Seven detached houses, placed without order, with thatched roofs, stand
in the middle of a lawn that is always green. Here is an ancient elm, there
a well; further on a fence encloses a garden planted with vegetables and
fruit-trees; a mill, its wheel turned by the brook; in front a stable, a dairy;
one house is used as the kitchen, another is the dining room, so decorated
as to resemble a hunting lodge: one fancies one's self in the middle of a thick
wood, the seats imitate tree-trunks, green couches and clusters of flowers
rise from the ground; a few openings made between the branches of the trees
admit the light A third cottage serves as billiard-room, a fourth is a library.
The barn makes a large and splendid drawing-room."
From the time when the Hamlet came into being, there was never a big
fête at Chantilly without a supper in this pretty corner of the park. Innum-
erable "pots de feu" illuminated the thickets; on the canal the guests drifted
in gondolas to strains of dreamy music; fancy-dress fêtes were held, and the
singing and dancing continued until dawn.
The Hamlet is now greatly fallen into decay, nevertheless it is worth a visit.
Retracing our steps we bear to the left and, having crossed the first bridge,
follow a pretty path which brings us into the flower garden of Le Nôtre, where
we get a good view of the castle (see the above photo). One can go straight
back to the entrance gates by the staircase shown in the view. It is called the
GRAND DEGRÉ (great stair). It was built in 1682 by the architect Gitard;
The groups which adorn the base of the Terrasse du Connétable, on each
side of the stairs, were drawn by Le Nôtre and carved by Hardy.
This walk, from the time of leaving the Museum until the return to the en-
trance gates, takes about three-quarters of an hour.
If one wishes to visit the ENGLISH GARDEN and the JEU DE PAUME, which
will take about 40 minutes longer, one must walk past the north front of the Castle
and follow the walk which opens in the middle of the thickets.
The English garden was laid out in 1817 to 1819 by the architect Victor
Dubois, according to the orders of the last of the Condés, just returned from
exile. The site occupied by this garden, like the ground on which stands
th: town of Chantilly, belonged to the ancient park, devastated during
the Revolution.
We pass near the TEMPLE OF VENUS, which shelters a Venus Callipyge
of the xviith century, near the ISLAND OF LOVE, which dates from 1765 and

48
CHANTILLY
0
The Hamlet
on which are statues of Aphrodite and Eros. In the xvinth century the
Island of Love contained a luxurious pavilion, in which nocturnal fêtes were
held, the canals and park being illuminated. The pavilion disappeared at
the time of the Revolution.
The ancient CASCADES OF BEAUVAIS, that one sees before arriving at the
Jeu de Paume, are remnants of the old park. They were the work of Le
Nôtre.
The Jeu de Paume, constructed in 1757, is transformed into a museum.
It contains various curiosities, notably Abd-el-Kader's tent, which was
carried away when the Smalah was captured by the Duc d'Aumale, in 1843.
After 3 p. m. one can leave the park by the gate next to the Jeu de Paume.
We come out in front of the “GRANDES ÉCURIES" of the castle which the visitor
is welcome to inspect.
General View of the Castle

FROM CHANTILLY TO SENLIS
(About 512 miles)
The Castle seen from the Route De Vineuil
Returning through the monumental gateway, we cross the Rue du Connetable
and go straight on, skirting the Castle park on the right. We cross the Saint
Jean canal, then the great canal, then turn to the right into the high street of
V ineuil. On the right one soon has a beautiful vista of the Castle and Park
(view above).
We now go through Saint Firmin. The church, on the left, contains in
its choir Renaissance windows which are classed as historical monuments.
From Saint-Firmin to Senlis the road is easy. We enter Senlis by the Creil
gate (see plan inserted between p. 50-51). Turn to the left by the Avenue Vernois
and the line of boulevards to reach the station, where starts the itinerary described
further on, in Senlis.
General View of Senlis

50
SENLIS
SENLIS
ORIGIN AND CHIEF HISTORICAL EVENTS
Senlis is of Gallic origin; it was the capital of the Sylvanectes. The
Romans surrounded it with fortifications, a great part of which still exist
(see view below).
The first kings of France, attracted by the hunting in the surrounding
country, frequently stayed at Senlis.
It was in Senlis castle (see p. 74) that Hugues Capet was elected king by
the assembly of lords in 987.
The Capetians often returned to the birth-place of their dynasty and it is
to them that the town owes its chief buildings.
Taken by the peasants in the war of the Jacquerie in 1358, besieged by
the Armagnacs in 1418, it fell into the hands of the English and was de-
livered by Joan of Arc in 1429; Senlis knew great vicissitudes in the xivth
and xvith centuries.
After Henry IV, who interested himself greatly in Senlis and lived in its
old castle, the kings of France gradually forsook the town in favour of Com-
piègne, Fontainebleau and Versailles.
Occupied in 1871 by the Germans, it reappears in history in September,
1914. The burning of the town and the summary executions which took
place there will be recalled in the course of the visit (p. 51-65).
Parc
Chaftillon
WIKI
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MEAUX 37
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SOISSONS
61
N. D. de Bon Secours
CREPY
Anc
Usine à Gaz

SENLIS
51
Visit to the Town
(See map inserted between p. 50-51)
VIAN
At the STATION
the tourist gets his
first view of the
havoc wrought in the
town by the events
of September, 1914,
on the 3rd of which
month it was set on
fire.
Follow the station
road (l'avenue de la
gare), which leads to
the Compiègne gate.
This is the road
by which the Ger-
mans entered Sen-
lis, on the 2nd of
September, at
about 3 o'clock in
the afternoon.
The Burned Station (September, 1911)
COMBINI
MOTOR SPIRIT
British Soldiers in the Place de la Gare (September, 1914)
While one part
of the advance
guard made the
tour of the town,
following the bou-
levards and the
ra m parts which
encircle it, other
groups descended
directly south by
the two
two main
streets which
cross Senlis, thus
making sure of a
thorough explora-
tion.
Interior of the Burned Station (September, 1914)

SENLIS
Entrance to the Rue de La République before the War
The entrance to the RUE DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE suffered a great deal, as is shown
by the two photographs, taken before and after the fire of September 2nd, 1914.
On the left, the toll-house is completely burned down; in the centre, the
Hôtel du Nord and
the Restaurant En-
causse are in ruins.
The building on
the right is the
Gendarmerie.
The German
prisoners who
appear in the
picture opposite
are leaning against
the wall of the
barracks.
They were the
few soldiers who
remained in Senlis
after the victory
Prisoners in front of the Gendarmerie (Sept. 1914)
of the Ourcq. They
were captured by Zouaves sent from Paris in motor-cars.
Only a few years ago the Rue de la République was called the Rue Neuve
de Paris, although it dated from 1753. It was made in order to spare the
Entrance to the Rue de la République after the Fire

SENLIS
53
BANO
court of Louis XVth the circuitous way and steep ascent of the old road
which followed the
Rue Vieille de Paris
and the Rue du
Châtel.
Descending the Rue
de la République we
come to the Rue Belloy,
which crosses it. We
turn to the right
at the place shown
on the opposite pho-
tograph, and a few
steps
further
оп,
reach the CARREFOUR
DE LA LICORNE. This
is one of the most
devastated places
of the town. The
German Cyclist at the Entrance to the Rue Belloy (1915)
first view was taken
2 B
Rue Rougemaille (1914)
during the German
occupation, a Ger-
man cyclist being
snapshotted while
riding The other
views show the
state of the ruins
in 1914 and the
present condition.
We return to the
Rue de la Républi-
que.
A few yards
down on the right,
we see the charred
house. the gable-
end of which ap-
pears in the view on
the following page.
Ruins of the Carretour de la Licorne (1914)

54
SENLIS
We next reach the level of the
Hôtel du Grand Cerf, of which the
signboard is seen in the view below.
The German Headquarters Staff
stayed there, and that is no doubt
the reason for its remaining intact.
The Mayor of Senlis, Mr. Odent,
was taken there on the 2nd of
September after his arrest at the
Townhall, just before being re-
moved to Chamant to be shot.
The proprietor of the hotel having
left the town, the German officers
commandeered a restaurant keeper
and made him prepare a meal for
thirty people, with "ices and cham-
pagne.
Burned House, Rue de la République (1914)
Fire in the Rue de la République (1914)
are
The houses
which face the ho-
tel, and which were
still burning when
the above photo-
graph was
taken.
those of the
local Justice of the
Peace and Public
Notary.
Looking through
the entrance gates
of the Notary's resi-
dence, one beholds
the scene of deso-
lation reproduced
in the opposite pic-
ture.
18
Ruins of the Notary's House (1914)

SENLIS
55
WE
On the left of the
Rue de la République
we come to a build-
ing which served as
the sub-prefect's
office and COURT OF
JUSTICE
This building, for-
merly a hospital, dates
from the beginning of
the xviitth century.
The work of the in-
cendiaries is seen by
comparing the oppo-
site view with that
given below.
All the ruins already
pointed out, as well as
those that will be seen
Burned Court of Justice (1914)
further on, were made
systematically.
The soldiers to whom this work was assigned arrived in columns; at the
sound of an officer's whistle a certain number of men left the ranks and
smashed in the doors of the houses and the shop-fronts; then others came
Rue de la République (1914)
who started the
fires with grenades
and fuses; lastly,
the patrols who fol-
lowed, fired incen-
diary projectiles in-
to those building
which did not take
fire quickly enough.
The above view
was taken during
the German occu-
pation. It shows
the Red Cross staff
conveying the
wounded from the
overflowing hospi-
tal to the College of
Saint Vincent
Court of Justice before the War

56
SENLIS
After crossing the
Nonette one arrives
at the junction of
the Rue de la Répub-
lique and the Rue
Vieille de Paris.
the corner
stands the inn" LE
DÉBIT SIMON," of
which a view is given
below. Simon was
without doubt the
first victim of the
Hun occupation.
In the middle of
the afternoon
German patrol
who had just been
drinking at the inn,
was shot at by a
Ruins at the Corner of the Rue du Temple
French rear-guard,
who was seated at Simon's a few moments before. The Germans immediately
seized the innkeeper, accused him of having fired and shot him point-blank.
a
are
Débit Simon (Simon's Inn). The proprietor was killed by the Germans
Other pretended reprisals were made, causing the death of twenty unof-
fending civilians, of which the reader will learn the details further on. The
view below shows the
corner of the Place
Saint Martin where
stands the Café
Simon. Two Ger-
man cyclists
seen in the photo-
graph,
which
was
taken on the 4th
of September, 1914.
It will be noticed
that the one on the
left has a lady's bi-
cycle, which certainly
did not come out of
the army stores!
German Cyclists in Place Saint Martin

SENLIS
57
GARAGE
BICYCLETTES
de
MILITARES
RESTAURANT - J.PIÁRIO
Partes Postale
RENDEZ-Votis
CYCLISTESTE
Ruins of the Faubourg St. Martin
Following the Rue du Faubourg St. Martin, shown above, the tourist will pass a
pretty estate (view be-
low), the old quarters
of the Garde du Corps,
which was completely
burned and the ruins of
which produce a start-
ling effect. In front are
the headquarters of
the cavalry, partly
burned. Still further
on, at the exit of the
town, is the HOSPITAL.
It was there that
the battle raged most
fiercely. The German
advance guards, beat-
ing back the French
soldiers delayed in the
Faubourg St. Martin,
were met by the fire of
the machine guns
Burned Building, 17 Faubourg St. Martin
stationed outside the town, along the road.
The Germans penetrated into the hospital and the neighboring gardens,
· trying to outflank the French defences which they thought were placed on
Equipment Abandoned During the Battle

58
SENLIS
Marks of German Bullets in the Hospital
the road, but a deadly fire from the transverse trenches made them fall back.
Furious at this, they seized the passers-by and made them walk in the middle
of the road, they themselves keeping close to the walls.
Among the hostages were a Mme. Dauchy and her young daughter. The
latter was shot in the leg. Georges Leymarie was killed; one of his com-
panions, Levasseur, while carrying the body along the pavement beside the
hospital wall, suffered the same fate. Two other hostages, Audibert and
Minouflet, the latter wounded, had also reached the pavement of the hospi-
tal. A German officer discharged a revolver at Audibert and left him for
dead; he ordered Minouflet to show his wounds and, finding them insuffi-
cient, put a bullet through his shoulder. Three other people fell. The
shrieks of the victims reached the French, who ceased fire. The surviving
hostages then slipped past the trees along the road, under German fire, up
to the French lines. The Germans took advantage of this to make a fresh
attack, but were repulsed.
The hospital, situated as it was in the midst of the fighting, was not spared.
A German officer, wounded by one of the first shots, entered the hospital and
meeting an old pensioner, Mr. Maumus, on the threshold, shot him down in
cold blood.
The ward where the French and Moroccan wounded lay was fired on with
machine guns, as shown in the above photograph. By a wonderful chance no
one was hit, the Crucifix also remained untouched in the centre of a wreath
of bullets.
The tourist will now, retracing his steps, turn to the right into the Rue des
Jardiniers, whence he will have a good view of the whole town. Always leep-
ing to the left he will pass through the Meaux Gate into the Rue de Meaux which
borders the COLLEGE OF SAINT VINCENT (p. 77). (If on foot, it would be better
to follow the line of the ram parts Bellevue and Saint Vincent, instead of the Rue
des Jardiniers. At the Meaux Gate, he will go down the steps into the Rue de
Meaux).
Back in the Rue de la République, he will go up as far as the Rue Odent, which
skirts the Hôtel du Grand Cerf. By this road he will arrive at the Place de la
Halle, continued to the right by the Rue Saint Hilaire, which leads to the church
of SAINT PIERRE (see p. 73).

SENLIS
59
From the Place Saint Pierre
one goes to the left into the
Tittle Rue aux Flageards which
passes in front of the north door-
way of the cathedral, of which a
view is given opposite. The tower
on the right and the spire were
struck by several shells.
Continuing along the Place
Mauconseil and turning to the left
into the Rue Villevert one reaches
the charming square which lies in
front of the parvis of the CATHE-
DRAL. (See p. 66-72 for descrip-
tions concerning the artistic
features of the cathedral)
Here we shall only give the in-
cidents of September, 1914, in
which the building shared.
During the day of the 2nd
of September 1914, about
fifty shells struck the old
church and caused rather
serious damage, as shown in
the following photographs. The
vicar of the cathedral, the
Abbé Dourlent, went about the
streets of Senlis during the bom-
Traces of Shells on the Cathedral. Photo by M. H. bardment and had 125 inhabi-
tants, who had been unable to
find shelter in the cellars, escorted out of the town by one of his curates. On his
return to the vicarage, which stands at the foot of the tower (the house visible
in the photograph on p. 67, on the right, behind the two trees), shortly after the
Germans had entered the town, the vicar heard violent and repeated blows)
in the cathedral. Coming out into the square he saw cyclists, holding a
large fragment of a statue (which had been flung to the ground by a shell
with which they had battered in the small door of the cathedral (that on
the right in the view on p. 67. Others, axes in their hands, were attacking
the door of the
steeple on the
south side of
the tower. The
Germans,
volversin hand
rushed at the
vicar and their
leader
com-
manded him
to take them
to the top of
the steeple, ac-
cusing him of
having allowed
machine guns
to be placed
there which
had fired on
them.
As they
climbed the
first step they Debris at the foot of the Cathedral Towers. (Photo by M. H.)
re-

60
SENLIS
heard the first shots fired the in
lower part of the town.
The soldiers sprang up and
declared the vicar their prisoner.
The visit to the steeple con-
firmed the Abbé Dourlent's de-
claration that no one had been
up and that no military prepa-
rations had ever been made there.
The men drew off, but a few mo-
ments after the porter of the
town-hall brought the vicar the
order to render himself imme-
diately as hostage at the Grand
Cerf Hotel.
When he arrived the head-
quarters staff had left, taking
with them the mayor, who was
shot that evening
The incendiarism had already
started; the vicar saw incen-
diary bombs thrown into the
houses facing the hotel, which
are shown in the photograph on
page 54. He entered the vicar-
age, then returned to the Grand
Traces of Shells on the Cathedral
Cerf to learn what fate awaited
him.
It was there that a German superior officer, who spoke French, said these
few words which throw light on the events at Senlis:
“Poor Curé, poor Senlis, your civilians have fired on us and we have been shot
at from the top of your church tower, therefore Senlis is doomed. You see that
street in flames' (the Rue de la Ré-
publique), well! this night the whole
town will be completely burned down.
We have orders to make of
Senlis another Louvain. A
terrible example is needed for
Paris and for the whole of
France."
The vicar implored for mercy
for the town and the officer prom-
ised to intervene with his su-
periors in order to obtain a miti-
gation of the sentence. Whether
he gained his point or whether
the giving up of the direct
march on Paris caused the part
of scape-goat assigned to the
peaceful little town to appear
of less immediate necessity, the
incendiarism was limited to the
Rue de la République and the
Quartier de la Licorne.
The tourist will visit the Cathe-
dral (see p. 66-72), SAINT FRAM-
BOURG (p. 73), the CASTLE (p. 74-
76), and will then go down the old
Traces of Shells on the Cathedral
Rue du Châtel.
ICKEY
1

SENLIS
61
This road was the scene of the
outrage of 1789, famous in the an-
nals of Senlis. The clockmaker
Billon, seeing beneath his win-
dows the company of musketeers
from which, as usurer, he had
been dismissed, raised his musket
and killed the commandant and
several others. Trapped in his
house, he backed from room to
room still adding to the number
of his victims. At the moment
when they seized him the mine that
he had prepared exploded, destroy-
ing his house and leaving twenty-
six dead and forty injured.
The Rue du Châtel ends in the
Square Henri IV, in the corner of
which stands the TOWN-HALL. Its
façade (see below), dates from
1495. Above the door is the
bust of Henry IV, with an in-
scription taken from the letters
patent sent by the king to Senlis
as thanks for the town's resist-
ance against the Leaguers:
Abbé Dourlent
"Mon heur a pris son commence-
ment en la ville de Senlis, dont il s'est
dépuis semé et augmenté par tout le royaume." (My good fortune had its beginning
in the town of Senlis, whence it has since sown itself and spread over all the kingdom.)
The Square Henri IV received the first shells of the bombardment in Sep-
tember, 1914, which killed a fireman on guard at the town-hall.
When the Germans penetrated into Senlis, one of their superior officers
went to the town hall and asked for the "burgomaster."
Town Hall

62
SENLIS
The Mayor, Mr.
Odent, came forward.
For three genera-
tions the Odents had
been mayors of Sen-
lis. The grandfather
of the present mayor
distinguished himself
during the cholera
epidemic in 1832;
his father was seized
as hostage in 1870
and narrowly escaped
being shot.
On the
eve of
the German occupa-
tion, Mr. Odent took
his family to Paris
Last Photograph of Mr. Odent (in the middle)
and on his return to
Senlis wrote on a post-card to Mr. Cultru, oldest member of the municipal
• council, as follows:
"Having at last placed my wife in safety, I now belong entirely to Senlis."
Mr. Odent had the presentiment that he would not come out of German
hands alive; a fervent Catholic, he performed his religious duties in view
of a swiftly approaching.death, and fastened a crucifix on his breast.
Above, we give the last photograph of Mr. Odent. It was taken on the 5th
of August, 1914, during a military fête. Mr. Odent is in the middle.
The mayor was violently upbraided by the officer because of the deserted
aspect of the town-barely 1,000 inhabitants remained out of 7,000, and
during the bombardment houses and shops were closed. He was also blamed
for the absence of proclamations exhorting the inhabitants to deposit their
arms at the town hall and to offer no resistance.
Mr. Odent pointed out the rapidity of events and the peaceable ways of
the old city. He was nevertheless led before the headquarters staff at the
Grand Cerf Hotel. Immediately after, came the sound of the first shots fired
by the French rearguard at the lower end of the town. The officer was furious
and vowed that he would hold the mayor responsible and that his head should
answer for the lives of the German
soldiers. The town clerk suggested to
Mr. Odent that the deputy mayor should
be fetched, but the Mayor refused, say-
ing: “One victim is enough."
The resigned hostage was taken
from the Grand Cerf to Chamant (see
p. 79). He was brutally treated, his
gloves snatched from him and flung
in his face, his stick seized and brought
down violently on his head. Mr. Odent
and some other hostages spent several
hours of cruel waiting for their fate.
At last, at about 11 o'clock in the even-
ing, they were brought before several
officers. After having been made to
stand at attention they were ordered
to lie flat, their hands stretched for-
ward; they were then again told to
stand at attention. The officers, satis-
fied that they had thus asserted their
authority, for form's sake then pro-
German Soldiers Photographed at Senlis
ceeded to interrogate the mayor, and

SENLIS
63
A
KODENT
Mr. Odent's Grave at Chamant
in spite of his denial persisted in accusing him of having opened fire upon
the German troops. They then informed him that he would be shot.
Mr. Odent returned to his companions in captivity, gave them his papers
and money, shook hands with them and bade them a dignified farewell.
He then went back to the officers. At their command two soldiers dragged
him about ten yards further off and put two bullets through his head.
The ground was hastily hollowed out and the body was laid under such a
thin layer of earth that the feet were not covered. It was here that the cross
shown in the above photograph was erected. The tourist can visit it when
passing through Chamant (see p. 79). A few hours before the mayor's death,
six other hostages had been shot and buried in the same field. Mr. Odent's
companions were more fortunate; they were sent back to Senlis the next
day. On the 12th of September the bodies of the mayor and the six other vic-
tims were exhumed and taken to the cemetery in the town (see p. 65). Other
hostages narrowly escaped death. At about 8 o'clock in the evening, in
the tailor's shop at the corner of the Rue du Châtel, in front of the town hall,
three inhabitants were seized and taken to Chamant. To these, in the course
of the journey, were added a dozen others. They were about to share the
fate of the preceeding hostages when one of them, who spoke German, suc-
ceeded in inducing the headquarters staff to set them free.
By the Rue Vieille de Paris (a continuation of the Rue du Châtel) we descend
to the lower part of the town. (In 1358 the "Jacques," masters of Senlis, drove
back the nobles, who had entered the lower end of the road, by rolling down
the slope heavily laden wagons which overturned anything that happened
to be in their way.)
In front of the old Convent of the Carmes, Vo. 3 of the Rue Vieille de Paris,
stand MÉGRET's Baths, to which a café is attached. In the afternoon of Sep-
tember 2nd, some Germans smashed in the door and demanded drink. It
was no doubt at that time that other German soldiers entered the Café Simon.
a little further on (see p. 56). The two proprietors suffered the same fate.
Mégret had barely finished serving the patrol with a dozen bottles of wine
when a shot, fired point-blank, felled him to the ground.

64
SENLIS
1939
Picture in the Town Hall (Execution of Hostages in 1418.)
On page 62 appears the photograph of three young German soldiers belong-
ing to that column of incendiaries and murderers who did so much damage
to Senlis. With threats they forced the photographer, Mr. Rozycki, to whom
we are indebted for the views taken during the German occupation, to take
the photograph we have reproduced.
A little way past the Convent of the Carmes (now turned into barracks,
its chapel being used as a clothing store), we follow, on the right, the line of
ramparts that goes from the Rue Vieille de Paris (where the Paris gate used
to be) to the Place de Creil (where stood the gate of the same name).
These ramparts were made in the with and xiyth and strengthened in
the xvth and xvith centuries.
The first portion is called le REMPART DES OTAGES in memory of the exe-
cutions of 1418, during the fight between the Burgundians, who occupied
Senlis, and the Armagnacs, who besieged it.
The town, reduced to famine, was to surrender on the 18th of April if no
help arrived, and six hostages were handed over as guarantee: two abbots,
two nobles and two commoners. Help was signalled on the day of the 18th;
but the Armagnacs, before leaving, decapitated four hostages at the foot of
the ramparts on which the tourist is standing. In return, the besieged flung
down from the walls the heads of twenty prisoners captured during a sally.
Six centuries have elapsed, but it will be seen that, towards hostages, the
Germans still retain the mental attitude of the Middle Ages.
A picture by Mélingue (reproduced above) which hangs in the town hall,
commemorates the execution of the hostages of Senlis in 1418.
The next ram part is called the MONTAUBAN, after the square tower which
was added to it in 1588. It was in the dry moat below, that the Archers'
Company held their practice. The head of the company, the "king of the
Crossbow," was exempted by Henry III from paying taxes, and ever since
that remote period archery has always been held in honor at Senlis.
certain fêtes as many as 4,000 archers were assembled, part of them belong-
ing to the town, the others coming from the surrounding country.
From the rampart, the view of old Senlis, spread out at the foot of the
athedral, is particularly picturesque.

SENLIS
65
Soldiers' Graves in the Cemetery
From the Creil gate, where you come out on leaving the ram parts, the ARENA can be
visited (see p. 78). After that, turn down the Avenue Vernois, at the end of which is
seen the entrance to the cemetery. The monument raised in memory of the host-
ages who were murdered in 1914 (view below) is in the western part of the ceme-
tery. In the northern part is the grave of the soldiers who fell during the battles
of Senlis, (view
above). From the
Boulevard Pasteur
which is a con-
tinuation of the
Avenue Vernois,
there is a pretty
view of the coun-
try. At the corner
of the Rue Saint
Joseph stands a
convent where
seventy nuns re-
mained during
the German oc-
cupation. Some
German soldiers
made them open
the door and de-
manded wine:
“Oh!" answered
the Reverend
Mother, "the
nuns drink only
liquorice-water.
The tourist
now finds him-
self at the Com-
piègne gate where
he began his visit
to the town. This
is also the start-
ing point fixed in
the itinerary for
the journey to
Meaux, see p. 79.
Monument of the Hostages in the Cemetery

66
SENLIS
ARTISTIC SENLIS
(See map between pages 50-51)
The Cathedral of Nôtre Dame (historical monument)
The Cathedral was begun in 1153 on the site of a church which had been
destroyed and rebuilt several times since the mid century. The work of
construction was slow, as funds
were often lacking, despite the
help given by the kings of France.
For several consecutive years col-
lections
were repeatedly made
throughout the country in order
to obtain resources for the bishop.
The consecration of the un-
finished church took place in
1191.
Toward 1240, the transept was
raised and the spire, which is still
the pride of Senlis, built.
In 1504, lightning set fire to
the Cathedral, which went on
burning for two days. Luckily
the spire was saved.
The re-
construction of all the higher parts
and of the façades of the transept
Cathedral
lasted until 1560 and completely
transformed the appearance of the building. During the Revolution it was
used as a ballroom and afterwards as a storehouse for fodder. In 1801 it
became once more a place of
worship.
It has been seen (p. 59-60)
that the Cathedral was not
spared by the German shells
on the 2nd of September, 1914,
and that its vicar very nearly
shared the
the mayor's tragic
fate.
The view opposite is taken
from the top of the steeple
of St. Peter's church.
In the foreground are seen
the buildings of the old
Bishop's Palace, standing on
a Gallo-Roman site. One of
the towers of this enclosure
was utilized in their construc-
tion.
After 1790 Senlis was
no longer a bishopric. An
archaeological museum is
now established in the old
dwelling-place of the bishops.
The west facade of the
Cathedral, which escaped the
Cathedral seen from the Steeple of St. Pierre fire of 1504, has retained

SENLIS
67
the simplicity and bareness of the xuth century church and is in remarkable
contrast with the richness of the side façades built in the xvith century.
The great doorway, which will be fully described further on, is flanked by
LILLE
Place Du Parvis
two small doors surmounted by a tympanum, the arcading of which forms a
curious ornamentation.
The two towers were originally alike; it was only in the middle of the
xunth century that the spire was added to the south tower.
This SPIRE is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture and for nearly seven
centuries has been the admiration of architects
and archaeologists because of the science,
audacity and solidity of its construction,
which was proof against fire, the inclemency
of the weather, and German shells.
Its summit is 255 feet above the ground.
Octagonal, it rests on the square base of the
tower.
The transition from the square to the oc-
tagon is masked by the four pinnacles (each
supported by three small columns), which oc-
cupy the four corners of the square.
The upper part of the spire is pierced with
eight highly ornamented dormer windows; the
arrises of the spire are decorated with crockets.
This construction reveals the great art of
the architect, who knew how to break the mo-
notony of the spire's long, sloping lines without
making them appear heavy.
The little Place du Parvis shown above is
charming in its archaic decoration.
The edifice seen on the left of the photo-
graph is the old home of the Vermandois family,
modified in the xivth century. One can
walk around the courtyard of the old dwelling,
entering through the door seen between two
big trees.
Between the house of Vermandois and the
church stands the Chapter House (see p. 72),
The Spire of the Cathedral

68
SENLIS
به لام له » حرام
The xnth century door-
way was damaged during
the Revolution. The great
statues were decapitated
and have since been re-
stored. The bas-reliefs
suffered considerably.
This is the first door-
way consecrated to the
Virgin. Its design served
as a model for those of
the cathedrals of Char-
tres, Rheims, Amiens, and
Notre-Dame de Paris.
The bas-relief of the
lintel, shown below, rep-
resents, on its left side.
the death of the Virgin.
This part is much dam-
aged. The apostles en-
circle the bed on which
the Virgin is lying, two of
them swinging censers.
Two winged angels bear
away the Virgin's soul,
portrayed as å new-born
babe wrapped in a swad-
dling cloth.
The right side, which
represents the Resurrec-
tion of the Virgin, is in a
The West Door of the Cathedral
better state of preserva-
tion. An angel stands ready to crown Mary, who is raised from her bed by
three others, while a fourth leans forward the better to see over those in front.
All this sculpture shows a truth and freedom of attitude of which very few
examples are found in the xirth century.
Above the lintel, in the tympanum, is the Triumph of the Virgin; the
execution of this work is far from equal to that of the lintel.
In the niches of the arches are statues of the patriarchs, the prophets and
the kings of Judah.
The eight great statues which flank the door represent personages from
the Old Testament.
The one nearest the door, on the left, is Abraham. He holds his son by
the hair and stands ready to behead him, but an angel restrains his sword.
Beneath the pedestals of the large statues is a "CALENDAR," i. e. a set of
symbolical scenes typifying the twelve months of the year, or the seasons.
That of Senlis is carved with much spirit.
The south front of the Cathedral has not the harmony of that of the west.
Lintel of Cathedral Doorway

SENLIS
69
1
2
3
4
5
6
Calendar of the Cathedral (right)
1.-January. The month of feasts. The peasant seated at table, prepares to drink.
2.-February. Work is at a standstill. The peasant is at the fireside.
3.-March Work begins again. The peasant digs.
4-April With the spring the time has come to care for the trees.
5-May. The lord, his falcon on his wrist, goes forth to hunt.
6-June. The peasant mows his meadows..
7-July. It is the beginning of the harvest.
(8
(
9
(12)
Calendar of the Cathedral (left)
8-August. The peasant threshes the grain.
9-September. The peasant gathers the grapes.
10-October. The peasant gathers in his crops.
11-November. The peasant kills his pig.
12-December. The peasant puts cakes in the oven for the fêtes at the end of the year.
The lower part of the apse dates from the with century, with its radial
chapels and, above, the little semi-circular windows of the galleries. The
upper part of the church belongs to the xyıth century.
The rich façade of the transept also dates from the xyıth century.
DES
South Facade of the Cathedral

70
SENLIS
The Cathedral-South Façade of Transept
The view opposite shows the
detail of the South FAÇADE
OF THE TRANSEPT designed by
Pierre Chambiges, son and pupil
of Martin Chambiges. The
latter worked on the Cathe-
drals of Beauvais, Sens and
Troyes, and his son drew inspi-
ration from his work for the
execution of that entrusted to
him at Senlis; this explains
the great resemblance that vari-
ous portions of these edifices
bear to one another.
In comparing the south por-
tal with the western façade
one notes the development of
Gothic architecture from the
with century, when its restraint
and simplicity of line still re-
called Roman art, to the xvith
century, when rich, flamboyant
decoration flared in its final
splendour, making way for the
art of the Renaissance that
the Italian wars brought into
fashion.
The appearance of this fine
ensemble is spoiled by the adja-
cent polygonal vestry erect-
ed on its right, which was
rebuilt in the xixth century.
A part of it can be seen in
the above photograph; though
one can judge still better of
its ugly effect from
from the
photograph on the preceding
page.
THE NORTH FAÇADE OF
THE TRANSEPT, is in its
general arrangement, the
same as that on the south,
but it is less richly orna-
mented.
On the pediment which
surmounts the entrance are
carved the salamander and
the "F" of Francis I. On that
of the south are the arms of
France.
The tourist must not fail
to have a look at the north
side of the Cathedral, which
is very picturesque.
On the north tower the
marks of German shells are
still to be seen. The photo-
graph at the foot of page
60 shows them clearly.
The Cathedral - North Façade of Transept

SENLIS
71
Interior of the Cathedral
CHAPTER
HOUSE
NORTH GATE
XVIIM
2N0 AISLES XVIT)
ni
CHAPEL
XVIIT
107 AISLES XHT
AMBULATORY
(XIII
M BU
WEST GATE
NAVE XULTINA
MAXI will
TYRAN-SEPT
CHOIR
XALTH
CHOIR
CHAPEL
XIXIM
PAISLES XITN)
AMBULATORY
gno AISLES XVITA
CHAPEL
XVIM
10
CHAREL
XIXTH
SOUTH GATE
XVIT)
Plan of Cathedral
E, stairs leading to galleries.
G, chapel of transept (vault with pendentives).
M, aisles of choir.
O, radial chapels of the with century (modern windows).
A, roof of nave. (B1, B2, B3, B4,
transept.
Bi
BE
А
C, piers supporting the vault on
the nave by means of flying
buttresses.
D, first aisles of nave and am-
bulatory.
В.
B3
G, second aisles of nave.
T
T
T, galleries running round the
church.
G
D
D
D
Section of Cathedral

72
SENLIS
METODE
Galleries of the Cathedral
The galleries of the Cathedral are among
the most beautiful in France. The above
view, taken from the choir galleries which
overlook the southern part of the transept,
shows those of the nave in enfilade.
In order to visit these galleries the key must
be obtained from the vestry.
In the chapel seen on the right as one
re-enters the church by the south door,
the visitor will notice the hanging bosses
of the vault of which a view is given
opposite.
In the Chapter house at the north
west end of the Cathedral (see plan, p. 71),
is seen the curious capital of the central
pillar, on which is carved cast of
jesters.
a
Hanging Bosses
The view opposite
shows a fragment of it.
Two of the figures
are playing the organ,
that on the right is
working the bellows,
another with a stick
beats the tambourine
that he holds between
his legs; on the re-
mainder of the capi-
tal other figures are
dancing.
The Chapter house
was used by the can-
ons of the
of the Cathe-
dral.
Capital in the Chapter House (Cathedral)

SENLIS
73
RE
Church of Saint Frambourg (historical monument)
It stands in a little street which opens on the south of the Cathedral Square and
can be seen from the square.
This Church was found-
ed on the site of a Ro-
man temple, by Queen
Adelaide, wife of Hugues
Capet. Rebuilt in the
xiith and xinth centuries,
transformed into a "Tem-
ple of Reason" during the
Revolution, it now serves
as a carpenter's workshop.
On the façade one can
distinguish the place for
a
large
rose window,
which was never finished.
On the left side of the
façade stood a tower which
has been demolished.
The Church has no roof
left above the vaulting. To
visit the interior (consisting
of a single nave of graceful
proportions) apply to the
carpenter. The entrance to
Saint Frambourg
the workshop is seen on the
left of the photograph.
Church of Saint Pierre (historical monument)
Market day on Tuesdays and Fridays. If the tourist should wish to go to
the top of the belfry or to visit the Church on other than market days, he must apply
to the concierge of the Tribunal (Court House) in the square.
This old town of Senlis is so rich in relics of the past that it puts its ancient
religious monuments to quite profane uses. We have seen above that Saint
Frambourg shelters carpenter. Saint Pierre serves as a market, anotherchurch as
a theatre, a fourth as a museum and others as clothing stores or barns. Five have
completely disappeared ; as
for the Abbey of Saint Vincent,
it has been turned into a college.
Saint Pierre was founded in
1029 and reconstructed during
the XIIIth and xivth centuries.
The roof of the nave was
begun in stone but completed
in timber-work. The façade
dates from the xvith century
and recalls the work of Pierre
Chambiges in the Cathedral.
The right-hand tower dates
from the xviith century. From
the upper platform there is a
splendid view of the town and
the surrounding forests. An-
other
ancient tower
exists, the base of which is the
remains of the primitive Ro-
man church. The spire (the
top of which is seen in the
photograph opposite) was added
Saint Pierre
in the xvth century.
more

74
SENLIS
Entrance to the Castle and the Hôtel des Trois Pots
The Castle (historical monument)
The Castle belongs to the Count Turquet de la Boisserie, who allows it to be
visited. Apply to the concierge.
The entrance shown in the above view is the Rue du Châtel, quite close to the
Square of Parvis-Nôtre Dame. On the left side stands the old Hôtel des Trois
Pots, so called from the signboard which hangs from the first floor, and formed
of three pots, which are being filled by a thin stream of water.
Ruins of the Castle Chapel

BENLIS
75
This old dwell-
ing recalls all the
history of France
from the Gallo-
Roman conquest
to the reign of
Henry IV. The
castle itself, of
which only a part
exists (visible on
the left in the
photograph op-
posite was erect-
ed on the site
of an old Roman
Castle and Priory of Saint Maurice
fort. At the foot
ran the bound-
ary line of the town, partly formed by the wall which encloses this side of the
estate and the tower which flanks the north front of the buildings.
The Merovingian and Carlovingian kings often inhabited the castle, situ-
ated as it was in the midst of their
favourite hunting-grounds.
It was the theatre of numerous historical events; Pépin, duke of Aqui-
taine, grandson of Charlemagne, died imprisoned there; Baldwin of Flanders
carried off from there the daughter of Charles the Bald. In 987, the last Carlo-
vingian king having died while out hunting, the French lords assembled in
the Castle and elected as king, Hugues Capet, whose dynasty reigned in
France until the Revolution. Philippe-Auguste held festivities there on
returning from his wedding with Elizabeth of Hainault. Saint Louis founded the
priory of Saint Maurice. During the Hundred Years War, Catherine of France
was married to Henry V of England at Senlis, in 1420. After Henry IV, the very
dilapidated castle was gradually abandoned. Justice was still administered
there until the falling in of the Audience Chamber in the xVirth century.
The interior of the Castle is in ruins. There is one room to be seen, called
Henry IV's Room, which is shown on the following page. It dates from the xmth
century. It is covered with fine panelling. The fireplace was altered in the xyth
century, but the big circular section flue remains just as it was in the xirth cen-
tury. On the left of this fireplace a xiiith century window (now blocked up)
can still be distin-
guished. The one
at the further end
of the room be-
longs to the xvith
century. In the
photograph some
tombstones are
seen, resting
against the wall;
a fragment
placed against the
chimneypiece are
the arms of Diane
de Poitiers (char-
acterized by the
crescent); the two
cannon balls are
of stone; these
were hurled from
catapults and
from the first
bombarding ma-
Roman Enclosure
chines.
on

76
SENLIS
Henry IV's Room in the Castle
Of the Chapel built in the beginning of the with century nothing remains
but ruins, a view of which is given on page 74. It was situated on the first
floor; a “semi-circular” arcade of the nave is still to be seen, on the right
side. The ground floor, vaulted like an arbor, formed a passage.
The prior of Saint-Maurice, of which one ivy-covered building still exists
(visible on the right of the photograph at the top of the preceding page), was
founded by Saint Louis in honour of Saint Maurice, who commanded the
Theban Legion, massacred under Diocletian for refusing to worship false gods.
In 1234 the king succeeded in obtaining the bodies of several of these
martyrs from the vicar of Saint-Maurice-en-Valais.
A church, copied from the Sainte Chapelle in Paris, was built to shelter
these relics. It was destroyed during the Revolution.
Passing under the Roman enclosure by a subterranean passage, we arrive at
the old moat, transformed into a kitchen garden. From here there is a very
interesting view of the wall and the Roman towers, the Cathedral and the Castle.
A good idea of it is given by the photograph at the foot of the preceding page.
The Roman enclosure continues toward the Cathedral, passes by the apse,
from there to Saint Frambourg, and its oval rejoins the Castle by the Place de
la Halle, the Rue aux Fromages and the Rue du Puits Tiphaine. It measured 312
m.(1024 ft.) at its greatest diameter and 242 m. (794 ft.) at its smallest diameter;
28 towers adorned the walls which were 7 m. (23 ft.) high and 4 m.(13 ft.) thick.
The town, having grown, was cramped in the limits of the Roman city;
the new ramparts were raised between the xiiith and xvith centuries; the
tourist has already travelled over a part of them.
The platform of the Roman fort, which was followed by the Castle, stood
on the part which (with the Rue Villevert) forms a corner of the estate. It
is reached by the narrow passage, made in the thickness of the sub-basement
which led to the dungeons. It was in one of these (toward the year 870)
that Pépin, king of Aquitaine, died, imprisoned by order of Charles the Bald,
against whom he had revolted.
Subterranean passages connected certain important points of the Castle.
They were supposed to lead as far as the Castle of Montépilloy (see p. 80)
and the Abbey of Châalis (see p. 83).

SENLIS
77
The Old Abbey of Saint Vincent
To visit it apply to the Concierge in the Rue de Meaux.
DE
NIE
SAEPRI
Abbey of Saint Vincent
The Abbey of Saint Vincent was founded in 1065
by Anne of Russia, wife of Henry I, king of France,
in fulfilment of a vow.
The Abbey Church was rebuilt in the xiith cen-
tury.
The tower, which dates from that period, is
square; it has two stories with very high dormer
windows grouped in pairs on each front, which
give a very light appearance to the general structure.
The other buildings belonging to the Abbey
were rebuilt in the xviith century. Inside, an
interesting cloister still exist's, with a Doric colon-
nade, shown in the view opposite.
After the Revolution the Abbey was turned
into a hospital, then into barracks and after that
into spinning mills. In 1836 it became the College
Saint Vincent, counting among its pupils Marshal
The Abbey Cloisters Canrobert and the poet José-Maria de Hérédia.
Many inhabitants of
Senlis took refuge in the
Abbey cellars during the
bombardment of the 2nd
of September, 1914. St.
Vincent soon served as
an annex to the hospital,
which was too small to
hold all the wounded.
In the photograph on page
55 we see the transport
of the wounded being
carried on by the Red
Cross in September, 1914.
The temporary hospital
remained after the de-
parture of the Germans,
which explains the pres-
ence of the wounded seen
in the foreground of the
Entrance to the Abbey (Rue de Meaux)
view opposite

78
SENLIS
The Arena (historical monument)
The gate at the entrance of the road leading from the Place de Creil to the Arena is
sometimeslocked. Apply to the Syndicat d'Initiative (Hôtel du Grand Cerf)for the key.
Entrance to the Arena
The Arena was discovered in 1864. It apparently goes back as far as the
mid century.
The tiers encircle a track measuring 130 feet x 110 feet. Two large en-
trances, which were vaulted, lead into the Arena at each extremity of the
great axis. On the other axis are two little rooms, which were no doubt re-
served for the gladiators. In the southern one, niches hollowed in the walls
probably served as cupboards.
View of the Arena

FROM SENLIS TO MEAUX
(About 40 miles)
(See maps inserted between pages 80-81 and 94-95)
VIA CHAMANT, MONTÉPILLOY, BARON, CHÂALIS, ERMENONVILLE.
Starting from the Compiègne Gate, we leave the town by the Route Nationale
(N 17). After having crossed the railway we turn to the right and follow N 32
as far as the first road on the right bordered with trees, which leads to Chamant.
100 yds. before the village we enter a field enclosed by hedges, on the right of the
road (112 miles). In this field, which appears in the view on page 63, the Ger-
man troops were encamped. Mr. Odent, the Mayor of Senlis, and six other host-
ages were shot there (p. 62-63). Mr. Odent's grave is near the wood which skirts
the side of the field opposite the one which borders the road. Near the en-
closing hedge is the grave of a German captain.
Go on to the village of Chamant, turn to the right, then to the left as far as
the church, the steeple of which can be seen. This church dates from the xiith
century and was modified in the xivth and xyith. The Roman spire shown
below is remarkable. In the interior, the capitals and vaulting decorated in
many colors were restored at Napoleon III's expense, as was also the tomb of
Lucien Bonaparte's wife, which is to be found in the side chapel.
Go around the church, turn to the left, then to the right, near the firemen's gym-
nasium. The road planted with trees, which forms a continuation (on the other
side of the Route Nationale) of the road on which we stand, leads (700 yds.
further on) to the Castle of Chamant, where the German Headquarters Staff
stayed. The cellar was pillaged; more than 1,200 bottles of champagne
were emptied.
This castle, which dates from the xviith century, was inhabited by Lucien
Bonaparte. Attached to it are important racing stables.
Follow N 17 for about 1,500 yds., then turn to the right toward Ognon (514
miles). Turn twice to the right in front of the church and go toward Barbery,
the factories of which can be seen from afar. Cross the railway (734 miles) near
the station, which was set on fire by the Germans, and keep straight on toward
Montépilloy (about 872 miles), which stands on a neighbouring hill.
Church of Chamant

80
MONTÉ PILLOY
արեցված նոր
The castle, the en-
trance to which is
shown on
on the op-
posite view, forms
part of a farm.
Its name comes
from “Mons Specu-
latorum" or "Mount
of the Watchers." It
was built in the with
century. On the 15th
of August, 1429,
Joan of Arc occu-
pied it. An English
army commanded by
the Duke of Bedford
was between Monté-
pilloy and Senlis. The
Castle of Montepilloy
battle took place on
August 16th and enabled the troops of the king of France to retake Senlis.
The castle was dismantled under Henry IV. To obtain a view of the whole
and to realize the dominating position of the castle one must, before entering
it, walk a few steps along the road which descends on the right of the farm.
The entrance door is flanked by two large towers. The bulky masses of
masonry, which supported the chains by which the drawbridge was worked,
are still to be seen.
Wecross the old moats
of which portions still
exist. On entering the
courtyard we see the
imposing ruins of the
two towers, one circu-
lar (of which only one
large piece of the
walls
remains the other
square.
We retrace our steps.
On leaving the vil-
lage, near an iron shed
we turn into the paved
road on the right and
continue about 400
yds. The Germanguns
which bombarded
Senlis were placed
in the hollow on the
right. A German
grave will be noticed
in the meadow.
We return to the road
and go down towards
Barbery. Afterthe level
crossing, turn to the
right into the main
road. After 234 miles
turn again to the right,
cross the railway line,
then the village of Ducy;
climb a ridge and de-
scend by zigzags to
Baron (1612 miles).
Castle of Montépilloy

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BARON
81
BARON
Entering Baron, we
turn to the left in the
High Street and, 300
yds. further on, at the
end of the block, reach
the HOUSE OF AL-
BÉRIC MAGNARD.
It is marked by a
marble tablet (visi-
ble in the view op-
posite) on which is
engraved the follow-
ing inscription:
Albéric Magnard, musi-
cal composer, born in Paris
on the 9th of June, 1865.
died on the 3rd of Septem-
ber, 1914, shot and burned in
House where the Musician Magnard perished in the fire (Sept., 1914)
his house while trying to
defend it.
Celui-là qui, rebelle à toute trahison,
1
A defendu son art contre la barbarie
Et préférant la Muse à toute Walkyrie
Devait ainsi mourir défendant sa maison
EDMOND ROSTAND,
de l'Académie Française.
(He who, revolting against treachery,
Defended his art against barbarity,
And prefering the Muse to any Valkyrie
Was doomed thus to die, defending his home.)
His inspiration entirely French, Magnard, (as Rostand recalls in the above
lines) had kept his art free from German influence.
His artist's sensitiveness made him suffer intensely from the horrors of in-
vasion; he warned his friends that he was resolved to die rather than submit
to the rule of the conqueror and that his revolver held four bullets for the
enemy and one for himself.
He had sent his family back to Paris, only keeping his young son-in-law
with him. The Germans entered Baron on the 2nd of September. On the
3rd at about 9 o'clock in the morning, a party of soldiers entered the grounds.
The composer had locked and barricaded himself in the villa. After summon-
ing him three times the Germans fired from the garden at the facade shown in
the photograph below.
Magnard retaliated
through the venetian
blinds of a window on the
first floor, killing one of
the soldiers and wounding
another. The composer's
son-in-law, returning from
a short walk, arrived at
the beginning of this scene.
Seized and bound to a tree,
he only escaped death by
passing himself off as the
gardener. After having
fired a few rounds the
Germans a waited the
instructions of the com-
mander. The latter at
first decided to burn the
village as a reprisal, but
on the entreaties of the
Magnard's House (Inner Façade)

82
BARON
Public Notary, Mr. Robert,
modified the sentence and
ordered that the incendia-
rism should be limited to
the Villa Magnard. After
having hurriedly pillaged
the composer's study, the
soldiers set fire to the
kitchen with straw and
grenades. When the smoke
began to rise Mr. Robert and
Magnard's son-in-law heard
a report from the interior of
the house. The author of
"Guercoeur" and "Bérénice"
had no doubt just died by
his own hand. An officer
then said to the notary,
“He takes the best way
out." Magnard's body was
consumed in the fire. His
revolver was found with
Baron Church
three chambers empty.
The village was looted. An officer ordered the notary, Mr. Robert to
open his safe. As he first refused to obey this order; the officer told two
of his men to load their weapons and Mr. Robert was forced to hand over
the 8,300 francs the safe contained. While the notary was occupied in
satisfying these demands, the Germans stole his silver, his jewelry and that
of his wife, even his personal linen, in exchange for which they left him their
dirty shirts. The cellar was entirely emptied by the officers, who took 1,471
bottles of rare wine. The same witness saw an officer wearing nine women's
rings and three bracelets on each arm.
Returning from Magnard's house follow the High Street as far as the CHURCH
(historical monument). This church is of the xuth and with century, with
a fine steeple belonging to the xvth (view above).
There is beautiful panelling to be seen inside (view below). Joan of Arc
received the sacra-
ment here on the eve
of the battle against
the English below
Montépilloy, in 1429.
Follow the road
which is a continua-
tion of the High Street.
At this spot and as far
as Senlis, rearguard
actions were fought
in September, 1914
Pris After a little over 2
miles turn to the left
(in the field which
forms the corner of
the two roads, there
is a German grave).
Nearly 2 miles fur-
ther on, turn to the left
again into the road to
Ermenonville, and af-
Panclling of Church
ter having proceeded
about 1,200 yds., go down the lane which leads, under the trees, to the entrance of
the domain which constituted the ancient abbey of Châalis (about 22 miles).

CH A LIS
83
CHÂALIS
At the very beginning of the with century, on his return from the First
Crusade, a lord of Mello founded a priory at Calisium. In 1136 the king,
Louis le Gros, wishing to honor the memory of his brother, Charles le Bon,
who was assassinated in Bruges, transformed this priory into an abbey which
was placed under the management of the Order of Citeaux, whose radiating
power was beginning to make itself felt.
The abbey flourished under the protection of the kings of France, the
bishops of Senlis and the lords of Chantilly, and became of great importance.
Its present condition can only give a faint idea of its former disposition
and state.
The good king St. Louis often came to share the peaceful life of the monks,
cultivating the soil and the vine, looking after the bees, fishing for pike in
the ponds, and eating in the common refectory, out of a wooden bowl, amidst
the tame birds that came from all the country around to join in the meals.
At the time of the Renaissance, the abbey fell in commendam, that is to
say it was no longer the property of the community but that of the Abbot,
who was thenceforth chosen by the king, instead of being elected by the
monks. The first commendatory abbot was the Cardinal Hippolyte d'Este,
son of Lucretia Borgia. Reducing the monks to a bare pittance, the car-
dinal made free use of the abbey revenues, which enabled him to build his
famous Villa d'Este at Tivoli and its magnificent gardens.
In 1570, the great Italian poet Tasso spent several months at Châalis
and there worked at his “Jerusalem Delivered.'
In the xvinth century, the reconstruction of the abbey was undertaken.
Jean Aubert, the architect of the "Grandes Écuries” at Chantilly and the Hôtel
Biron in Paris, was entrusted with the plans. The work was begun but not com-
pleted. The abbatial building, which today contains the museum and which
can be seen on the left of the beautiful avenue leading to the entrance gate,
shows the dignified style that Aubert wished to apply to the new edifice.
Ruins of the Abbey Church

84
CHALIS
All these works ran the abbey into debt. Louis XVI had it closed and
placed in liquidation. The Revolution completed its ruin. Sold as national
property, Châalis greatly suffered.
The buildings were for the greater part destroyed, the old church was
sold piecemeal at the rate of twelve sous (12c) per cartful of stones.
In the xixth century, the successive proprietors did their utmost to re-
constitute the domain. The grounds were bought back, the ruins consoli-
dated. The abbatial building became a castle; the park was laid out again.
In 1902 Mme. Jacquemart-André bought the estate for $240,000. She
bequeathed it to the Institute of France with the museum that she had
established in the castle. The Institute took possession of it in 1912, at
the donor's death.
The Church
The church, built at the beginning of the milith century, is of great interest
from an archæological point of view, for it shows the first application by
the Cistercians of the Gothic style of architecture, which had just made its
appearance in the Ile de France. In the hundreds of abbeys created by the
original abbey of Cîteaux situated near Dijon, the Roman style had hitherto
held sway. Beginning with Châalis, the Cistercians proceeded to spread
the pointed arch all over Europe where soon more than 1,800 branch abbeys
were scattered.
The Church of Châalis was vast, measuring 269 ft. x 89 ft.
Its transept (the ruins of the northern part are seen in the view on the pre-
ceding page) was remarkable for its enormous size, compared with that of the
choir, and for the seven radial chapels-one of which is clearly visible on
the right of the view-enclosed in each of its branches. An outline of the nave
remains (on the left of the photograph); it had 12 bays preceded by a porch.
The steeple which rose from the tower was destroyed by lightning in the
xviith century. The monastery was connected with the church, and the
outline of the storied galleries is seen in the view below. The abbot's chapel
appears in the middle distance, on the right of the view on the preceding
page. It is designed in the style of the Sainte Chapelle in Paris.
Ruins of the Church seen from the Route Des Étangs

CHÂALIS
85
Visit to the Domain of Châalis
From the 15th of April to the 1st of November the Museum and Park are open
on Thursday afternoons, from 1 to 5 or 6 p. m. An interesting guide by the
Curator, Louis Gillet, is sold for 2 francs.
For the passing motorist the visit in detail is not indispensable. The
Museum although interesting, is far from equal to that which Mme. Jacque-
mart-André established in her house in the Boulevard Haussmann, Paris.
and which she bequeathed to the Institute at the same time as Châalis. As
far as concerns the park and ruins, an adequate idea of them will be obtained
by following our itinerary.
From the entrance gate one sees in front the ruins of the church; to the
left, the castle, containing the museum. The whole is quite imposing.
At a moderate pace, one takes the road (on the right of the gate) which leads
to the ponds. After having gone round them, through the enchanting scenery, of
which the photograph below gives some idea, the road runs through woodlands
and brings one back to the high road of Ermenonville, down which we turn to the left.
On the other side of the road spreads the second portion of the domain
of Châalis: the Désert, which formerly belonged to the park of Ermenonville.
In the neighbourhood of this park, it consists of a lovely, wooded landscape,
with two ponds in the background. At the other extremity there is a great con-
trast; for an arid stretch of land, the "Sea of Sand," faces the ponds of Châalis.
The Désert, like the park of Ermenonville, teems with memories of Jean-
Jacques Rousseau (see p. 86).
Skirting the ponds of the Désert we arrive at Ermenonville (about 25 miles).
The castle, which belongs to Prince Radzivill, is on the left of the road;
(it is not open to visitors). The park (open to the public on Sundays, Thursdays
and holidays), is on the right.
The castle was occupied in September, 1914 by German staff officers who
contented themselves with pillaging the wine cellar.
A Corner of the Ponds of Châalis

86
ERMENONVILLE
The park of Ermenonville was designed by the Marquis de Girardin. This
ardent disciple of J.-J. Rousseau, did his utmost to make the park an illus-
tration of the philosopher's work. In the part which now pertains to Châalis,
the Désert, he claimed to reproduce in miniature the Alpine landscapes where
were laid the scenes of "Julie ou la Nouvelle Hélouise." This touching
worship succeeded in dispelling the misanthrophy of Rousseau, who was
living in Paris, in gloomy solitude. He accepted the Marquis' hospitality and
settled down at Ermenonville on the 20th of May, 1778. On the 2nd of
July the “man of nature" passed away amidst trees, flowers and birds. He
was buried in the middle of the pond on the Island of Poplars (l'Ile des Peupliers
view below) that one sees on the right of the road, when reaching the level of the
centre of the castle. Rousseau's influence on his century was immense, and
for a long time his tomb was the goal of universal pilgrimage. The phi-
losopher's remains are no longer at Ermenonville; the Convention had them
exhumed and transferred to the Panthéon.
Cross the village, leaving the statue of J.-J. Rousseau on the left, and when
at the top of the hill turn to the left. Two and a half miles further on is the Plessis-
Belleville School of Aviation. From there go straight on.
At Saint Soupplets, at the branching off of the road with that of Dammartin
(3312 miles), stands the Belle-Idée Inn, which was the scene of an interesting
exploit in September 1914: a German officer and about 15 men had stayed in
the inn after the evacuation of Saint Soupplets, when a French patrol, com-
posed of Sergeant Vannerot and six men, entered.
The officer immediately fired at the sergeant, but missed. The latter
then transpierced him with a bayonet thrust and the rest of the German
troop were killed or put to flight.
At Penchard (about 32 miles) turn to the left after passing the town hall.
The road descends toward Meaux, giving a beautiful view of the town, dominated
by its Cathedral. In Meaux we turn to the left to go under the bridge and arrive
at the Cathedral (about 40 miles) (see plan inserted opposite).
tes
Tomb of J.-J. Rousseau at Ermenonville

1
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N Statue du Général Raoult
RTemple protestant
S Port Neuf & Pont du Port Neuf
T Théâtre
V Tour des Arbaletriers
W Cabinet de Bossuet - Allée des Ifs
X Sous-Préfecture
Poste Télégraphe Téléphone
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A Caisse d'Epargne
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D Moulins Pont du Marché
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F Monument Commémoratif, 1870-1871
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K Pont de Cornillon
L Pont des SS. Péres
PLACES
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2 PL ST MAUR
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Rues ou routes à éviter par les autos
AIDH

MEAUX
87
MEAUX
(See plan inserted opposite)
ORIGIN AND MAIN HISTORICAL EVENTS
Meaux was the center of a little Gallic nation: the Meldi -the inhabitants
of Meaux are called Meldois-and afterwards the capital of Brie. It was
joined to the royal domain in 1284.
Religious life was always very active in Meaux: six assemblies of prelates
were held there from the ixth to the mouth century, and two in the xvith
century.
It was the treaty of Meaux, in 1229, which put an end to the Crusade
against the Albigeois. At the time of the Reformation the religious wars in
that region became extremely violent. In the xviith century, the diocese
became famous on account of its bishop, Bossuet, who was called the Eagle
of Meaux.
The town was taken and set fire to several times in the course of its troubled
history.
In 1358, the peasants in revolt, who were called the Jacques, were cut to
pieces below the walls by the French and English nobles.
MEAUX IN 1914
Happier now than in 1814 and 1870, Meaux escaped in September 1914,
the horrors of invasion; it was only crossed by some German patrols. A few
shells fell in the Faubourg Saint Nicholas and even in the neighborhood of
the Cathedral, but no serious damage was done.
The British troops in retreat crossed the town on the 2nd and 3rd of Sep-
tember and blew up the Market bridge (view below), also the foot bridge
further down stream; the floating wash-houses, which might have served
the Germans as pontoons, were sunk.
Thirteen thousand out of fourteen thousand inhabitants left Meaux with
the civilian authorities. The bishop, Mgr. Marbeau, showed great energy
in organizing help for those who remained in the town and for the wounded
that poured in after the 5th of September. In spite of the existing circum-
stances, a Te Deum was sung in the Cathedral for the election of the pope
Benedict XV.
Market Bridge and Wash-Houses (September, 1914)

88
MEAUX
Visit to the Town
St. Stephen's Cathedral (historical monument)
Beautiful panorama from the top of the belfry. To visit, apply to
the verger (gratuity).
The building of the
Cathedral was begun at
the end of the XIIth
century and continued
until the xvith. It has just
been completely restored.
The left tower, the
only one completed, has
no spire. That on the
right is called the Black
Tower, because of its
covering of slates. The
façade is in the decor-
ated Gothic style. A
beautiful rose window in
the middle dominates
the three doorways.
The middle doorway
and that on the right
are surmounted by acute
triangular gablets; that
on the left, of a more ob-
tuse ogive, is placed un-
der an arch in acco-
lade. The Church is pre-
ceded by a parvis dating
from 1610, which is reached
by means of eight steps.
The stone used in the
present building has, un-
fortunately, very little
resistance and is weather-
worn. In the course of the
revolutions witnessed by
the old Cathedral, muti-
lations were added to the
Cathedral of Meaux
effects of time.
The three rows of statuettes which adorn each porch are much spoiled, as
are the bas-reliefs which decorate the tympanum.
The great statues which filled the niches have disappeared.
The Marne at Meaux

MEAUX
89
The Lions' Doorway of the Cathedral
After viewing the west
façade the tourist, keeping
to the right of the Cathedral,
should observe the LIONS'
Door on the south front.
This with
century
doorway, restored in the
xixth by Viollet-le-Duc,
takes its name from the
gargoyles, representing
lions, which flank it. It
is a reproduction of the
southern doorway of
Nôtre-Dame de Paris.
Entering the Cathedral
by the Lion's Doorway,
the tourist will be struck
by the lightness and rich-
ness of the decoration
of the interior, which
has been subjected to
extensive restoration.
The great height of
the aisles is noticeable.
It is explained by the
existence, in the original
church, of vaulted gal-
leries which were raised
above the aisles, as in
Senlis and Nôtre-Dame de
Paris. These galleries dis-
appeared in the
great
transformations which took place
at the end of the with century,
and the aisles therefore remained
notably super-elevated.
The TOMB OF THE “ EAGLE OF
MEAUX" is in the choir, on the
right, marked by a tablet of
black marble.
The Pulpit (see on the right
in the view opposite) was made
from some of the panels from the
old pulpit from which the great
Bossuet preached. The Bishop
of Meaux, in spite of his cares
at court, worked very energet-
ically in his diocese and preached
in the Cathedral many sermons
which lacked none of the in-
spiration that shone through the
magnificent discourses, delivered
during his career as a preacher,
before the royal audience.
He maintained strict disci-
pline amongst the clergy and
religious orders under his juris-
diction. His contests with the
Abbess of Jouarre went as far
as a forcible seizure of the
abbey buildings.
View of the Nave of the Cathedral

90
MEAUX
SOA
The view opposite shows
the further end of the
TRANSEPT, to which corre-
sponds the Lions' Door on
the exterior. The decora-
tion here is particularly rich.
Above the transept rose a
beautiful spire in timber-
work covered with lead, but
as it was in a very precarious
condition it was found neces-
sary to demolish it in 1640.
On the left of the view one
sees the commencement of
the CHOIR, the execution of
which shows to what heights
of lightness and boldness of
construction Gothic archi-
tecture had arrived. The
walls between the piers are
hollowed out by piercings
and mouldings; it is a miracle
of equilibrium.
Originally the choir had
only three chapels. Two
intermediary chapels were
added in the xivth century.
When making the tour of
the choir the visitor will see
opening on the north into the
courtyard of the old Chapter
House, the beautiful PORTE
Transept and Choir of the Cathedral
MAUGARNI, dating from the
xvth century, The name of Maugarni (a jailbird hanged on this spot in 1372
by order of the Bailiff of Meaux) came down to posterity by reason of the long
lawsuit that the Chapter of the Cathedral brought against the bailiff because
of this execution carried out in ecclesi-
astical precincts. Almost directly in
front of the Porte Maugarni, with its
back to the choir, is a white marble
statue representing the kneeling figure
of a young knight, Philippe de Castille.
In 1603, his father founded the bare-
foot order of Notre-Dame-de-la-Merci.
The statue comes from the church be-
longing to the convent of that order.
Beside the door is a xvith century
stone figure of Christ.
One can also see in the second
chapel, beyond the great doorway in
the north aisle of the nave, the group
in high relief of the Visitation
(xviith century) and the picture of
the Adoration of the Wise Men, attrib-
uted to Philippe de Champaigne. The
symmetrical chapel, on the south,
contains the tombstone of Jean Rose
and his wife. Jean Rose was one of
the great bourgeois of Meaux in the
xivth century. His name was given
to one of the boulevards of the town.
Porte Maugarni (Cathedral)

MEAUX
91
At the entrance to the nave the
xviith century organ is supported by
beautiful arcading.
Bossuet's MONUMENT, the work
of the sculptor Dubois (1907), stands in
the north aisle, near the main entrance.
At the foot of the pedestal, on the
right, are represented Turenne and
Mlle. de Lavallière, converted by
Bossuet. Mlle. de Lavallière appears
in the garb of a nun. It will be
remembered how, after
after Mme. de
Montespan had replaced her in the
favor of the king, Louis XIV, she
withdrew to the convent of the Car-
melites, under the name of Sister
Louise de la Miséricorde. On the
left are Henrietta of France, queen
of England, whose funeral oration
was delivered by the “Eagle of
Meaux," and the Dauphin, whose
tutor Bossuet had been.
Behind the pedestal is a bust of
the Great Condé. Bossuet was his
friend, and frequently visited him in
his beautiful castle of Chantilly, and
often received him at the Bishop's
Palace. His death inspired the "Eagle
of Meaux" with one of his most mag-
nificent funeral orations.
Bossuet's Monument in the Cathedral
The Old Chapter House (historical monument)
Leaving the Cathedral by the west door, one walks into the courtyard of the Bishop's
Palace, the entrance to which
is on the right of the square.
At the further end of the
courtyard is the old Chap-
ter House.
This old dwelling-place
of the Canons of the
Cathedral dates from
the xiiith century.
It is in course of res-
toration. Its curious,
covered outside staircase,
which is well seen in the
view opposite, is well
known to archeologists.
We have seen further
back, in the case of the
Porte Maugarni, how
vehemently the canons de-
The Old Chapter House
fended their prerogatives.
The Old Bishop's Palace
The old Bishop's Palace, the courtyard front of which faces the Cathedral,
dates from the with century and was altered in the xyith and xviith. On
the ground floor are two fine, vaulted, xiith century rooms. An inclined
plane leads to the second floor. According to tradition, one of the bishops
had it made that he might go up to his rooms without dismounting from
his mule.

92
MEAUX
Amongst the first floor
rooms are those of Marie
Antoinette and the king.
Meaux was in fact
halting place for Louis
XVI and the royal family
on their return from
Varennes.
The king's room was
also occupied by Napo-
leon I when he came
back from the Russian
campaign.
The town of Meaux is
now establishing a mu-
seum in the buildings of
the Bishop's Palace.
The north front looks
The Old Bishop's Palace
over a pretty garden, laid
out by Le Nôtre (to be seen on Thursdays and Sundays. On other days apply
to the lodge-keeper in the entrance court yard. Gratuity.)
At the end of the garden, on the ramparts dating from the Middle Ages, is
a terrace. It is reached by a covered staircase placed at the north-east angle.
From there one has a beautiful view of the garden, the Bishop's Palace and
the Cathedral (view above).
On the terrace stands a little pavilion known as BOSSUET'S STUDY. The
great bishop liked to work there, and often, by way of relaxation, took a
walk along an avenue of fine yew trees near by, on the ramparts.
The Old Mills
After visiting the Bishop's Palace we go through the Rue Martim prey to the
banks of the Marne.
The view is extremely picturesque; on one side are the mills which dam
the river; on the other is the beautiful PROMENADE DES TRINITAIRES, with its
old poplars. The mills shown in the view below were rebuilt in the xvith cen-
tury. The other side of the buildings looks on to the Market bridge (view
p. 87). These buildings, in spite of their age, withstood the blowing up of
the bridge in 1914.
Slightly downstream are the modern mills of l'Échelle, which replaced
mills similar to those of the Market bridge, burned in 1843.
Old Mills
VISIT TO THE
OURCQ BATTLE-FIELD

VISIT
to the
OURCQ BATTLE-FIELD
(5th-9th of September, 1914)
FROM MEAUX TO MARCILLY
(About 17 miles)
(See plan inserted between p. 94-95)
Via CHAUCONIN, NEUFMONTIERS, MONTHYON, PENCHARD, CHAMBRY,
BARCY
Start from Meaux in front of the Cathedral. Go down the Rue Saint Rémy,
pass under the railway bridge, then turn to the left and take the N 3 for about
1/4 miles. Turn to the right in front of a beet-root factory and follow the road
planted with plane trees which leads to CHAUCONIN (272 miles).
After having had a peep at the little country church, we take a few steps
along the path shown in the view below. The houses which border it still
show traces of the incendiary fires of September, 1914. The Germans oc-
cupied the village for a few hours on the 5th, just long enough to pillage
the dwellings and partly burn them by means of grenades flung on to the roofs
and sticks of resin thrust under the doors.
Having crossed the village, we have before us the buildings and high chimney of
Proffit Farm, situated at Neufmontiers. Take the road which leads to it.
On reaching the level of the farm, some French and German graves (of which
a view is given page 95) will be seen to the right of the road.
The German grave is on the left, isolated. It is marked by a black cross
on which is painted the letter A. In the background can be distinguished
Burned Houses at Chauconin

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NEUFMONTIERS
95
Graves at Neufmontiers
the wooded heights of Penchard, in the conquest of which fell the French
and Moroccan soldiers here buried.
In front of the graves
is one of the entrances
of PROFFIT FARM. The
view opposite shows a
part of the courtyard.
This fine farmstead had
been marked down
and condemned in ad-
vance.
The Germans had
themselves specially led
there from Chauconin.
They looted the farm-
er's house; near the
safe was found one of
Proffit Farm Burned by the Germans
the skeleton keys with
which they tried to force it. They then fired the stables and barns, where
nearly 20,000 bundles of straw made a gigantic blaze.
Skirting the walls of the farm, the road leads to the church where the Germans
installed an ambulance during their short occupation of September 5th. The
inhabitants who remained in the village were commandeered to carry in the
German wounded, on ladders, from the surrounding neighborhood.
On the morning of the 6th the French re-occupied Neufmontiers and cap-
tured the ambulance (view below).
German Ambulance in the Church

96
VILLEROY
Running between Proffit Farm and the church, the road slopes down to the brook
Rutel, which it crosses. At the fork of the road, turn to the right. A hundred
yards further on is the spot from which the PANORAMA A, seen below, (4 miles)
was taken, embracing the field of action of the 5th day of September.
Road to
Villeroy Iverny Heights of Cuisy
The Rutel
Monthyon
A. PANORAMA OF MONTHYON,
The advance guard of the 4th German reserve corps had placed its artillery
in the declivities of the heights of Monthyon and Penchard; the infantry
troops and machine guns had advanced into the plain, utilizing the Rutel and
the Neufmontiers to Iverny road as intrenchments. The first cannon shot of
the battle of the Marne was fired on the 5th of September, at noon, from
Monthyon, at a French battery which was coming out of Iverny, and killed
the captain. The fight was sanguinary all that day. The troops of the 55th
division tried their hardest to push the Germans back beyond Monthyon,
but were stopped on the plain by the terrible fire of the machine guns. At the
same time the Moroccan brigade attacked the heights of Penchard and carried
them with the bayonet, but it could not maintain its position there and was
forced back behind Neufmontiers and Chauconin, which the Germans occu-
pied. This occupation only lasted a few hours for, during the night, the
German troops, threatened with being outflanked by the 7th corps further
north, abandoned their formidable positions at Monthyon-Penchard and
the outposts at Neufmontiers-Chauconin. The next morning the French
took possession.
Continuing along the road to
Villeroy we come, after about
114 miles, to the GREAT GRAVE,
of which a view is given oppo-
site. It contains the bodies of
numerous officers and men who
fell in the surrounding fields.
At the extreme end of the grave,
on the right, is buried the well-
known writer, Charles Péguy,
whose death seems to have been
the one he desired when writing
Great Grave of Villeroy
the following lines, now famous:
Heureux ceux qui sont morts dans les grandes batailles Happy those who in great battles die,
Couchés dessus le sol à la face de Dieu
Beneath a glowing sun and in God's sight to lie.
Heureux ceux qui sont morts pour leur âtre et leur feu Happy those who die for country and for home,
Et les pauvres honneurs des maisons paternelles. The honor of the land their fathers own.
Heureux ceux qui sont morts, car ils sont retournés Happy those who die because to dust
Dans la première argile et la première terre.
They have returned to mingle with the just.
Heureux ceux qui sont morts dans une juste guerre, Happy those who in just war their lives do yield
Heureux les épis mûrs et les blés moissonnés. Happy the ripened grain and harvest field.

MONTHYON
97
At the fork of the road which comes after the grave go to the right toward
Iverny. It is within 200 yards of these cross-roads, in the field on the left
of the road, that Lieutenant Péguy was killed,-shot through the head
while standing amidst his soldiers of the 276th, whom he had ordered to
Road from
The Heights of
Neufmontiers
Rutel Pencbard
Castle Park
Neufmontiers
to Iverny
PENCHARD, NEUFMONTIERS
lie down. On arriving at Iverny, turn to the right toward Monthyon. At the
entrance to this village, near the farm de l'Hôpital, there is a little pond
where the cases of shells abandoned by the Germans were emptied (view
below).
These cases belonged to the three batteries of 77's which were established
on the right of the road behind the farm buildings, in a depression of the
ground. We have seen above that these batteries started the cannonade
which began the battle of the Marne. Marked down by the French batteries,
they hastily abandoned the position.
Pond Where the Germans Threw their Shells

98
MONTHYON
Leaving the pond on the right we follow the road to the left, which brings us
to the picturesque village of Monthyon (about 974 miles).
Despite the difference in spelling, it was the patrimonial fief of the cele-
brated philanthropist Baron de Montyon (1733-1820), founder of several
prizes for good conduct and literature awarded yearly in solemn session by
the Institute of France.
We have seen that Monthyon, attacked without success on the 5th by the
French, was on the 6th abandoned by the Germans. General de Lamaze
established his headquarters there.
On arriving at the church, turn to the right and descend toward the highway
from Saint Soupplets to Penchard.
Halfway down the slope we notice, on the left, a villa which overlooks
all the countryside and where the French Staff had a first-rate observatory
during those hard days of September.
The view below, taken from the upper balcony, shows a corner of the vast
panorama seen from that point.
The Plain at the Foot of Monthyon
At the foot of the slope turn to the right toward Penchard and follow the railway
lines on the road.
About 1/4 miles from there, on the left, an avenue planted with trees
leads to the Villa Automne, belonging to M. Charles Benoist, member of
the Institute and deputy of Paris.
There the Germans installed an ambulance which received the wounded
of the first battles with the Moroccans at Penchard.
Those who succumbed, among them several officers, were buried in the
garden of the estate.
The Moroccans captured the ambulance when they retook possession of
Penchard.
The villa had been ransacked; the most highly appreciated trophy was
the owner's peaceful academician's sword.
At the entrance to Penchard (about 12 miles), keep to the right as far as the
Town Hall Square, where the motor can be left.
By the road which borders the town hall on the right (about 150 yds from
there and going past the church) we reach the edge of the Penchard woods,
where the view on the following page was taken. The tourist who enters
these woods for a walk or a rest will find graves here and there, the last traces
of the furious battles that were fought there.

PENCHARD
99
Penchard was attacked the first time on the 5th of September by the Mo-
roccan brigade, which came from the Chauconin-Neuf montiers line, over
which the tourist has already travelled. The struggle was a desperate and
particularly bloody one on the edge of the wood where the reader stands
and also in the gardens of the neighboring houses. The Moroccans had the
advantage in this hand-to-hand fight and toward 'noon succeeded in taking
the village, which they held for several hours under a violent bombardment.
But we know that during this time the 55th division's attack on Monthyon
The Plain at the Foot of Penchard
had failed and the Moroccans, unsupported on their left, had to withdraw
beyond Chauconin-Neufmontiers.
On the 6th the brigade, renewing its efforts, found Penchard evacuated and
went on to the village of Chambry, toward which the tourist will now direct his
steps. When leaving Penchard the Germans posted several spies in the woods,
their mission being to signal the positions of the French troops and artillery
to the aviators.
One of them was caught and shot at the entrance to the wood on the Sth in
the evening. He wore the Red Cross armlet. On him were found pennons and
rockets which he used
for signalling
We must retrace our
steps as far as the fork
of the road at the en-
trance to the village and
take the road that runs
to the right.
Immediately after
this we come to the
crossways
of three
roads; we follow the
middle one which
goes toward Chambry.
We arrive at the
monument called DES
QUATRE ROUTES, be-
cause it is placed at
the crossing of the
Monunient of the Four Roads

100
CHAMBRY
WEN
Barcy to Meaux road
with that from Pench-
ard to Chambry. This
monument was raised
by the engineers, by
order of General Gal-
lieni, to the memory of
the Army of Paris.
Every year commem-
orative ceremonies take
place at Meaux and on
the neighboring battle-
fields, particularly at
the monument of the
Quatre Routes. The
opposite view was
taken in September,
1916. The Bishop of
Arras, Mgr. Lobbedey,
who some hours earlier
preached a touching
sermon from Bossuet's
pulpit in the Cathedral
of Meaux, is here seen
placing the tricolor flag
at the foot of the monu-
ment. At the crossing of
the Quatre Routes, the
tourist coming from Pen-
chard continues straight
on to Chambry, which is
Patriotic Ceremony at Chambry (Photo from l'Illustration)
seen a little further on,
in a hollow (see photo-
graph below).
Chambry (about 1312 miles) is one of the points of the French right where
the fighting was fiercest. It was taken and retaken during the days of the
6th, 7th and 8th of September. Alternately bombarded by the French 75's
(which at Penchard and Monthyon had taken the place of the German 77's,
driven from their first line) and by the light and heavy artillery that the
Germans had established on the heights of Varreddes and Gué-à-Tresmes,
Chambry, as seen by the great number of new roofs, suffered heavily.
The Germans were thrown back from the western ridge of the hollow into
the village, which they were forced to abandon after violent hand-to-hand
fighting in the streets. They then entrenched themselves on the east flank
and particularly in the cemetery, which is seen in the view below.
Cemetery
Chambry

CHAMBRY
101
Tomb at Chambry
Driven from the cemetery, they fell back on their chief position, visible
on the Panorama B (p. 104-105), whence they made obstinate counter-attacks.
The soldiers of the 45th and 55th divisions fought for the ground foot by
foot and finally remained masters of it, at the cost of heavy losses. Zouaves,
Algerian sharpshooters and infantrymen of the line vied with each other
in heroism during these terrible days.
Having entered Chambry we cross the square, leaving the main street on the
left, and go straight on. We thus turn around the village by the east, that is
to say, on the front that had to withstand all the German onslaught.
The gardens which border the road contain several graves of soldiers who
were killed in battle and were buried where they fell. The upper photograph
shows one of these graves. Some Algerian sharpshooters fell there, as is
indicated by the crescent drawn on the tombstone placed at the head of the
grave. The tricolor cockade pinned below is that of "l'Euvre du Souvenir.”
On the slope of the road, to the right, the French troops had established
a trench and some precarious shelters visible in the photograph below.
This chance installation at the beginning of the war contrasts oddly with
the scientific work that the struggle on fixed positions has now made com-
mon. It seems as though it could not have afforded anything more than
moral protection against the German artillery, which for three days riddled
the position with shells of 77, 105 and even 150 calibre.
The road followed
by the tourist rejoins
the main street, that
was on his left as he
entered the village.
Four hundred yds.
from here, on the right,
lies the cemetery of
Chambry. Near the
entrance, on the left,
is a little chapel, the
doors of which were
riddled with bullets.
It served as a tem-
porary infirmary but
was very quickly
filled up. We have al-
ready seen the im-
portance of the posi-
tion held by the Ger-
mans in the cemetery.
Shelters During the Battle

102
CHAMBRY
Chambry Cemetery
Through embrasures pierced in the walls, rifles and machine guns directed
a fierce fire on the French troops as they advanced to attack, coming up
from Chambry and Barcy. When the latter had taken the cemetery, they
made use of its defences in their turn. When the bombardment grew too
violent, Zouaves and infantrymen took shelter in the trench outside the cem-
etery walls, visible in the photograph on the following page. A goodly num-
ber of these brave men remained there and took up the space that would
have sufficed for the dead of that small parish for many long years.
The cemetery of Chambry has become a pilgrimage centre. Every year,
in the month of September, numerous delegations come to cover the little
graves with flowers. The photograph below was taken in 1915. In the middle
of the crowd can be distinguished in the foreground, kneeling and leaning
against the wire, Mgr. Chesnelong, Archbishop of Sens; behind him Mgr.
Marbeau, Bishop of Meaux. The lieutenant seen on the left is the Abbé
Dugoux, who had just celebrated mass in the Cathedral of Meaux.
Patriotic Ceremony at Chambry (Photo from l'Illustration)

CHAMBRY
103
Chambry Cemetery
On leaving the cemetery one sees in front, on the siope of the road, the re-
mains of the trenches dug by the French to protect themselves against counter-
attacks from the heights of Varreddes.
Following the road one soon sees the harrowing sight of the Plateau of
Chambry-Barcy, covered with graves. On the right, especially in the fields
which were crossed by the troops rushing to the attack from the hill
visible on the photograph below, one can reconstitute the progression of the
lines under fire by glancing along the succession of graves. The principal line
of the German defence during the days of the 7th, 8th and 9th of September
was established on a position leading from Étrépilly to Varreddes, plainly
visible on Panorama B (p. 104-105). The height shown in the photograph below
formed its southern extremity and its most salient point. Trenches had been
made there, supplied with machine guns and supported by batteries of 77's.
One realizes what energy the French troops needed to advance thus over
absolutely uncovered ground, under dropping fire. Several attacks were
unavailing; one of them reached the trenches, but the Germans, who had
every facility for bringing up their reserves, which were kept sheltered in the
declivity on the other side of the hill, thrust the French back on Chambry.
At last, on the 9th of September, the Germans having begun their re-
treating movement, Zouaves, Moroccans and infantrymen hustled their
rearguards and descended in pursuit of them into the hollow of Varreddes.
Heights of Varreddes
Graves on the Chambry Plateau

104
BAR CY
Continuing along the same road the tourist comes to a fork. IIe turns to the
left toward Barcy and soon comes to a group of poplars, whence the Panorama
B (below) was taken.
This panorama shows the objective of the French right during the days
of the 7th, 8th and 9th of September. This was the little ridge which runs
Plateau north
Ridge from Étrépilly to Varreddes
Trocy
of Étrépilly
B. PANORAMA OF THE
between Étrépilly and Varreddes, followed by a road bordered here and there
with poplars. This road was filled with trenches and machine guns which
easily swept the uncovered ground that had to be crossed before they could be
reached.
The supporting artillery was in the middle distance, on the Trocy Plateau
and the sides of the Varreddes hollow.
The 55th reserve division, the 45th Algerian division and the Moroccan
brigade hurled themselves against this redoutable position for three days,
while the 56th reserve division attacked Étrépilly and the plateau which
stretches to the north.
The line fell on the 9th, but over the whole surface of this plain (which
has been called “the Calvary of the reserve divisions") lay numbers of dead
who were buried, some where they fell, others in common graves. These
graves, with their flags waving in the wind, give a veritable grandeur to this
landscape of gentle undulations.
In the view below, taken in front of one of these common graves on the
plateau, appears the then English premier, Mr. Asquith, who was anxious
Mr. Asquith Visiting the Battlefield

BARCY
105
to make the Ourcq pilgrimage during one of his visits to Paris. He is seen
standing on the right of the road, near the spot from where Panorama B
was taken.
Arriving at Barcy (about 16 miles) the tourist will see the site of the great
commemorative monument which is to be raised by subscription.
Ridge from Étrépilly to Varreddes
Varreddes Road
ÉTRÉPILLY-VARREDDES LINE
At the cross-roads near the entrance to the village, take the middle road which
goes through Barcy and leads to the church.
It was in the little square, opening out in front of the belfry and the town
hall, that the second photograph (reproduced below) was taken, showing Mr.
Asquith interrogating a little village girl come to fetch water from the
fountain. Behind the fountain stands Colonel Hankey, secretary of the Allies'
War Council; beside him is the French officer who directed and expounded the
visit; Mr. Asquith is in the middle; to the right his son-in-law, and on the
extreme right Mr. O'Brien, Sir Edward Grey's colleague.
On the 4th of September Barcy was the headquarters of a German divi-
sion. A few people, among them the brother of the Bishop of Meaux, had
been arrested near Varreddes, in Mgr. Marbeau's car and taken before the
General. This latter, announcing that he meant to keep their car, told
them to inform the inhabitants of Meaux that on the morrow, at the same
hour, his troops would be before Paris. But on the morrow Maunoury's army
had begun its flank attack and the day after that (the 6th) in the morning,
Barcy was carried by the French troops arriving from Monthyon.
Mr. Asquith Questioning a Little Girl

106
BARCY
Barcy Church
Barey served as the starting point for the assaults on Chambry and on the
line of defence of Etrépilly-Varreddes; very often also as a place for defen-
sive withdrawals. The fighting was desperate; on the 6th of September the
246th had nearly twenty officers, including the Colonel, out of action; the 289th
went up to the assault three
times at the end of the day.
For three days the bombard-
ment was terrific: the batteries
of Etrépilly, Varreddes and
Gué-à-Tresmes rained shells on
the village and its approaches.
The church suffered heav-
ily, as shown by the photo-
graphs on this page. In the
upper one is seen the hole
made by the heavy projectile
which brought down the bell
shown in the foreground of
the second photograph. Many
houses, like those in the church
square, still bear traces of the
cannonade.
Others, less heavily dam-
aged, have been repaired.
Indeed, to look at the farm
sleeping in the sunshine, as
shown in the view on the fol-
lowing page, one would never
dream that it had lived
through such tragic days.
The new roofing of the
building on the left is all
there is to remind one that
it was not spared by the shells.
Barcy Church

MARCILLY
107
Following the road by which
we arrived at the church, we pro-
ceed toward Marcilly.
Before leaving Barcy, we pass
the cemetery where lie buried
many officers and men who fell in
the neighborhood of the village.
The Germans entered Mar-
cilly on the evening of Septem-
ber 4th and abandoned it on
the 6th, in fear of the outflank-
ing movement of the 7th corps
toward the north.
The village was the centre of
operations for the 56th reserve
division. The photograph below
shows Generalde Dartein's tem-
porary headquarters beside a
haystack, not far from the vil-
lage, the church of which can be
Farm at Barcy
seen in the background.
The tourist will have an opportunity of seeing in detail the objectives
of the division when passing through Champfleury, Poligny, and Étrépilly.
The struggle was very fierce and the bombardment incessant for three days.
The road crosses Marcilly but we do not go beyond the church, which is a
very curious one, with its squat tower and rustic porch (see following page).
Beside it is the school where a light infantry sergeant, mortally wounded,
still found strength enough to write on the blackboard: “The 23rd bat-
talion Light Infantry, the 350th Infantry and the 361st Infantry have beaten
the Prussians here. Vive la France!"
A few inhabitants who remained in the village also remember one of the
prisoners brought to the Pernet Farm, whose torn tunic gave glimpses of a
woman's chemise, trimmed with lace and little blue ribbons.
From the church square we turn back about 100 yds, and take, on the left, the
road to Étrépilly.
At the end of the village is a grave where infantrymen, “chasseurs" and
artillerymen lie buried (see photograph on following page).
General de Darlein's Temporary Hendquarters at Marcilly

108
MARCILLY
十​十一​十​十​十​十​十
​Graves at Marcilly (in 1917)
We soon arrive at the top of the
ridge which dominates Marcilly.
Turning round, the tourist will
have a wide view of Barcy, Mon-
thyon and Penchard; passing to the
other side of the ridge he will see,
on the left, the prominent farms of
Champfleury and Nongloire.
The view below was taken during
the battles of September in a field on
the right of the road. We see a
whole section, which thought itself in
safety behind a haystack, destroyed by
the explosion of a shell.
Marcilly Church
Section Decimated by a Shell

FROM MARCILLY TO ÉTRÉPILLY
(About 28 miles.)
Via PUISIEUX, NOGEON, ACY, ÉTAVIGNY, BETZ, ACY, VINCY
Étrépilly is about 212 miles from Marcilly by the direct route, but we
take the tourist round a loop of about 28 miles before reaching Étrépilly, so
that he may visit the front of the French left wing.
Arriving at a beet root factory, we come to a fork in the road and take the left
branch. Around this factory desperate battles were fought between the
troops of the 56th reserve division (who, masters of Marcilly, were trying
to take Étrépilly) and the Germans, who defended this advance guard of their
main position foot by foot.
The road crosses the Thérouanne; 50 yds. further on, at the cross-roads, we
take the road on the right which rises toward the Farm of Champfleury (about
3 miles). From this front, extending from the factory to the Champfleury
farm, the 56th division made many attacks on the strong line formed by
Ftrépilly and the plateau which spreads out north of the village, and shattered
all the German counter-attacks.
Champfleury Farm
Champfleury, very important by reason of its dominating position (as
shown in the photograph above), was vigorously defended but after two un-
successful assaults it was finally carried by the French. There they were
subjected for two days to a violent bombardment from Étrépilly, Vincy
and Trocy, which made all their attemps to debouch both difficult and costly.
The farm buildings suffered badly and the rooms of the farm house were
reduced to ruins by shells.
The view below shows the façade; the officers seen in the photograph be-
longed to the staff of the 56th division, which took the farm. The farmers
had evacuated Champfleury at the beginning of September; when they
returned they found in the billiard room (which was smashed to pieces) a
jeering inscription signed by a German officer regretting that they (the farmers)
had not been there to take part in the cannonading performed on their table.
To enter the farm follow a little lane on the right for about 100 yards.
It is very likely still
possible to see the vari-
ous seats hidden in
the trees in the garden
which were used by the E
look-out men.
From Champfleury
the road descends toward
Puisieux. The view on
the following page shows
the situation of this vil-
lage on a knoll. In the
background, at the
summit of the plateau,
is seen the farm of
Nogeon, which will be
visited in the course of
the excursion.
Champfleury Farm
92
1

110
PUISIEUX
On the tourist's left, outside the limits of the photograph, is a depression
beyond which, in a position symmmetrical with Champfleury (see Panorama D,
p. 120-121) appears the farm of Nongloire.
From the plateau on which this farm stands the French artillery hammered
Champfleury and the Étrépilly position.
Nogeon Farm
Puisieux, seen from Champfleury
On the right, also outside the photograph, is the FARM OF POLIGNY, toward
which we go, turning to the right, in Puisieux, into the Rue de Poligny. The
view below was taken from the Poligny road in September, 1914. In it are
seen guns, cartridges and machine-gun belts abandoned on the battle-field,
and a French drum, which later doubtless sounded the charge when the troops
of the 7th corps, starting from Puisieux, went to attack the farm, supported
by the 56th division coming down from Champfleury.
The struggle was desperate, for Poligny, like Champfleury, was an ad-
vanced position of the Vincy-Étrépilly line, and the Germans defended it to
the utmost. Before leaving they set it on fire.
Debris of the Battle in front of Puisieux

POLIGNY
111
The view below shows to what a lamentable condition this large farm was
reduced by bombardment and incendiarism. Only a part of the courtyard can
be seen here but all the buildings belonging to the farm, including the beet-
root factory are in the same state.
From Poligny the Germans fell back on their positions on the Étrépilly
Plateau, which is in the background of the photograph, and the farm became
a valuable point of support for the 7th French corps.
Poligny Farm
The German battery defending Poligny could not withdraw in its entirety;
the fire of the French 75's destroyed at least one of the field pieces, of which
a photograph is given below.
After this visit the tourist will return to the Puisieux road (about 512 miles),
following the road he came by, and cross the village by an S-shaped route, leaving
the church on the right.
On the French front Puisieux formed the connecting point between the
right (group Lamaze) and the centre (7th corps). It received many shells
from the batteries of 77's established on the Vincy-Étrépilly line and from
the heavy howitzers of the Trocy Plateau.
Having passed the church the tourist arrives at a little square with several
roads opening into it. He takes the one on the right, which leads him to the
German Field-piece destroyed near Poligny

112
NOGEON
plateau that dominates Puisieux on the north. On the left can be seen the
distillery of Fosse-Martin; straight ahead is the Nogeon Farm with its beet-
root factory.
West of FOSSE-MARTIN, in a room in the Castle of Brégy, the flag of the
72nd Thuringian regiment was found abandoned.
Nogeon Farm
The French artillery installed between Fosse-Martin and Bouillancy
maintained a terrific fight against the German batteries at Étavigny, Vincy
and Trocy. Colonel Nivelle, future General-
issimo, commanded the 5th artillery regiment,
which had just done great deeds in Alsace and
whose daring and enthusiasm shone forth anew
on the plateau of Multien.
Nogeon Farm was one of the principal centres
of battle during the days of the 6th to the 9th
of September. Taken by the French after a
hand-to-hand fight, it was subjected to several
counter-attacks supported by violent bombard-
ments which completely destroyed it; but labor
soon claims its rights and the view above shows
the rebuilding in progress.
From Nogeon, and the trenches around it,
the troops of the 7th corps gained Acy and
attempted to reach Vincy. The progression
toward this last position, over open ground
swept by an intense cannonade, was particu-
larly difficult. Many actions took place at
night. It was during one of these, in a bayonet
charge on the 7th of September, that the soldier
Guillemard, having transpierced the officer stand-
ard-bearer, captured a flag belonging to the
56th Magdebourg fusiliers, decorated with the
iron cross in 1870. Guillemard received the mili-
tary medal from the hands of General Gallieni.
The young fellow shook with emotion during
the ceremony and the General said good-humor-
edly: "Now then, embrace me and imagine I'm
Church of Acy
a pretty girl.

ACY
113
From Nogeon,
the road descends to
Acy-en-Multien
(about 9 miles) of
which the slender
steeple can be seen.
We cross the Ger-
gogne and go through
the village, following
the Main Street up to
the xiith and xilith
century church
which is classed as
an historical monu-
ment. This church
came practically un-
scathed through the
struggle which
drenched the village
Acy Church
with blood.
Acy's situation in the hollow of a valley
robbed its steeple of all value as an observ-
atory; it was therefore respected by the ar-
tillery on both sides.
After glancing around the interior of the
old church, with its squat pillars, shown in
the above view, we go on along the Main Street
passing the town hall.
Opposite is a photograph of the town hall
safe which was blown up by the Germans
during their occupation of the place.
A little further on is the cemetery, in front
of which is a big military grave.
Acy's churchyard was much too small
to hold all the heroes who fell on the territory
belonging to that parish.
In front of the cemetery, on the other side
of the road, stands the castle where the Ger-
mans quartered themselves.
The view below only gives a slight idea
of the state in which it was found by its
owners.
Safe Dynamited by the Germans
The park was
placed in a state
of defence and the
Germans made a te-
nacious resistance
there.
The tourist will now
take the road in front
of the cemetery, which
skirts the castle rail-
ings; he will then turn
to the left and follow
the zigzag road which
climbs the Étavigny
plateau.
The panorama at
the top of the follow-
ing page was taken
from the last turn of
Room in the Castle where the Germans slept

114
ACY
The Gergogne
Nogeon Farm
Acy seen from the Heights of Étavigny
the climbing path and gives a good view of the valley in which Acy is
built.
Here we can follow the course of the battle: the French held the Nogeon
plateau, the Germans the valley and the heights where the tourist stands.
Troops belonging to the 7th corps descended on Acy from Nogeon and came up
in front of the village, others slipped along the Gergogne and made a
flank attack.
After furious fighting in the streets,
in the castle grounds and in the
little woods on the hillsides, the
Germans were flung, back from Acy
to the heights of Étavigny. They
returned to the charge and in their
turn drove the French back to the
Nogeon plateau.
The village thus changed hands
several times, and this terrible beat-
ing backwards and forwards caused
great losses on both sides.
Continuing this road to Étavigny,
the tourist will go over the position
that the Germans established on the
plateau.
The infantry and the machine
guns were entrenched along the
road itself; the light and heavy artillery
were in the hollow on the right.
They showered shells on the French
positions at Nogeon and in return
received the fire of the batteries placed,
as mentioned before, between Fosse-
Martin and Bouillancy.
Arriving at Étavigny (about 11
miles) our attention is at once drawn
to the church, which suffered
terribly.
Étavigny Church

ÉTA VIGNY
115
a
The part played in the
battle by the church of
Étavigny was very differ-
ent from the passive one
assigned to the church
of Acy. Its dominating
position afforded priceless
views of the French lines
to the observer installed
in its steeple. It was
therefore by shells from
the 75's that the church was
damaged as shown in the
views on pages 114 and 115.
Étavigny was taken and
retaken in the course of
the battle of the Ourcq.
The struggle was hard,
the Germans making a
desperate resistance, as a
serious French advance in
this locality would have
meant the outflanking of
their whole line. They
succeeded in forcing the
troops of the 7th corps
off the plateau.
Taking the road on the
right, beside the church, about
200 yards further on we come
to the cemetery, which is in a
Étavigny Church
state of upheaval from the
bombardment. The photograph below was taken through one of the gaps.
The windmill pump, on the left of the view, was riddled with bullets.
From Étavigny the tourist can either return to Acy by the same road, or follow
the itinerary that we now give, which forms a loop around the northern part of
the battlefield. In the first case, the distance to Acy is a little over 2 miles; in the
second, about 234 miles. Starting again from the church along the road which crosses
the village, continue straight on toward BOULLARRE. In this locality keep turning to
the left and take the road to Betz. In the hollow on the left were placed the Ger-
man batteries which joined in action with those of Étavigny.
The road descends into
a rather picturesque valley.
Through it runs
a small
river, the Grivelle, which we
cross, then go through An-
tilly, turning to the right on
entering and to the left at the
fork in the road just after leav-
ing the village. We arrive at
Betz (about 16 miles). Turn
to the left near the church.
Betz did not suffer much
from the guns, but some
of its houses were burned
by the Germans, notably
the Hôtel du Cheval Blanc,
shown in the view on page
116 and which can still be
recognized by its sign board.
Étavigny Church, seen from the Cemetery

116
BETZ
-02
The castle was oc-
cupied by a German
headquarters staff,
who left it in a de-
plorable state.
During the pur-
suit the French offi-
cers had to abandon
the idea of lodging
there: one of them
records in his note-
book: "The German
officers have left dis-
gusting traces of their
Hôtel du Cheval Blanc after the Fire
passage; we see slices
of melon, bearing the
marks of their teeth, in the wash hand basins and enormous heaps of empty and
broken wine bottles.”
The tourist will cross Betz by the main street, which appears in the above
illustration; at the further end of the village he will go straight on and under the
railway, leaving the road to NANTEUIL-LE-HAUDOUIN on the right.
This last named town has not been included in the itinerary, although
it played an important part in the ultimate manoeuvre attempted by Von
Klück, that of outflanking the French left wing. The paved road which
leads to it is bad and the other roads by which one could rejoin the planned
route are extremely rough. Below we give a view of a corner of this battle-
field. It gives some idea of the great plain which extends from Betz to Nan-
teuil, where the 7th and 61st French divisions resisted with desperate energy
the furious attacks of the 4th German corps. The dead horses seen in the
photograph belonged to a French battery. The 75's, fully exposed, supported
the foot soldiers in their efforts almost until they came into actual contact
with the enemy.
After, passing under the railway the road rises to the plateau and soon brings
us near a commemorative monument on the right (view on following page).
Then through the woods of Montrolles, where the 61st division particularly
distinguished itself on the evening of the 8th of September. Worn out with
fatigue, its reserve supplies exhausted two days before, it yet, by a supreme
effort, succeeded in driving back the Germans.
The Plain of Nanteuil-le-Haudouin

VI N C Y
117
Having passed through
the woods of Montrolles, we
soon come to a fork and
take the road on the left.
On the right are the
heights of Bouillancy, where
the French artillery was
placed; on the left the pla-
teau of Étavigny on which
were the German batteries.
A hollow, where runs
a river, separates the two
positions, between which the
artillery duel was intense,
preparing and accompany-
ing infantry assaults which
succeeded one another from
the 6th to the 9th of Sep-
tember with alternate ad-
Monument at Betz
vances and retirements.
The road then returns to Acy, skirting the wall of the Castle park. We again
pass the church and, on leaving the village, cross the Gergogne. Immediately
after crossing the bridge turn to the left toward Vincy (about 22 miles). The
photograph below shows that this village also suffered from incendiarism and
bombardment.
After having crossed straight through Vincy, bear to the left in order to pass
in front of the Manauvre distillery, leaving the hamlet of that name on the left
and reaching Étrépilly, (about 251/2 miles) by the middle road of the crossways,
which are a little over half a mile further on past the distillery,
This Vincy-Étrépilly line formed part of the defensive front established
by the Germans west of the Ourcq, marked out further north by the localities
of Betz, Étavigny and Acy, which have just been visited, and, more to the
south, by the position seen on Panorama B (p. 104-105). The Germans had made
trenches and machine gun shelters over the whole plateau, which stretches
on the right of the road toward the farms of Poligny and Champfleury. On
the right slope of the road one can still see the dug-outs where the snipers
sheltered themselves.
The position was attacked from the 6th to the 9th of September by the
63rd division of the 7th corps and the 56th of the Lamaze group which
carried the advance positions constituted by the farms of Nogeon, Poligny
and Champfleury, but were stopped on the line itself until the general with-
drawal of the German troops.
Burned Farm at Vincy

118
É TRÉPILLY
To reach the spot where the view below was taken, follow the track which branches
of the road from Vincy to Étrépilly, between the Memorial and the burned hangar.
This is the road we see across the middle of the panorama. The tourist finds
Road from Vincy
to Étrépilly
Trocy
Memorial
Burned Shed
C. PANORAMA OF TROCY,
himself at the southern extremity of the Vincy-Étrépilly position, on the site
of a German battery which was severely treated by the French 75's.
In the background is seen the Trocy plateau, separated from the road by a
hollow, in which flows a tributary of the Thérouanne. On the Trocy plateau,
where this itinerary will in due course lead the reader, the Germans had es-
tablished their powerful artillery, composed of heavy and light batteries,
which swept the whole battlefield from Nogeon farm to Barcy, taking in
Puisieux and Marcilly. Beyond the valley of the Thérouanne, south of
Étrépilly, stretches the position of which the details appear in Panorama B
(p. 104-105). The view extends to the wooded heights of Penchard, which are
outlined against the horizon.
On the brow of the hill where the observer stands, fierce battles were fought
at the time of the attacks on Étrépilly. The 350th infantry did once make
their way into the village, following the valley of the Thérouanne, on the
morning of the 7th, but violent counter-attacks forced them back. They
returned to the charge at night and climbed from the river's edge to the
plateau. They were greeted by the fire of a machine gun section, upon which
two companies flung themselves with fixed bayonets. Two field-pieces were
taken. The French troops maintained their position until 10 in the evening
but finally, as the
German reinforce-
ments poured in, were
obliged to redescend
the slope and cross
back to the right
bank of the Thérou-
anne.
Returning to the
Étrépilly road we pase
in front of the me-
morial raised by the
engineers in front of
the cemetery, at the
Memorial at Étrépilly

ÉTRÉPILLY
119
place where the battles of Étrépilly reached their climax. A military grave has
been made behind the memorial. The Germans had entrenched themselves
in the cemetery, where they succeeded in checking the night attack made by the
Church of Étrépilly
Valley of the Thérouanne
Heights of Penchard
ÉTRÉPILLY, LA THÉROUANNE
Zouaves on the 7th of September. The 2nd regiment, coming from Barcy,
reached the village and carried it at the point of the bayonet. Without stopping,
the Zouaves began to climb the height at the foot of which Étavigny is built.
Their rush carried them as far as the cemetery; met there by a terrific fire
from the machine guns they tried to keep the position, but German rein-
forcements having come up, they were forced to abandon the plateau, evacuate
the village and return to their trenches at Barcy. Lieutenant-Colonel Dubua-
doux, commanding the regiment, was killed; three-fourths of the officers
and half the effective force fell in the course of this heroic charge.
In front of the memorial the twisted metal framework of a burned shed is
to be seen. According to certain accounts, the Germans, before evacuating
the position on the 9th of September, used this shed to burn the bodies of
those of their soldiers who fell in the battles of Étrépilly. Some of the inhab-
itants say that to these were added the badly wounded, whose hurts were
such that they could not be removed.
We believe, as a matter of fact, that a large pyre of corpses was set alight
here by the Germans, who generally burn their dead when they cannot carry
them away, but the hangar was destroyed by the French artillery which fired
repeatedly on that
side of the plateau
at the battery of
77's installed there,
at the cemetery
and at the German
trenches.
In the cemetery
lie the heroes who
were killed in at-
tempting to regain
it.
From the cemetery
the road descends
toward Étrépilly
Burned Shed

120
É TRÉPILLY
Turn to the right at the foot of the slope into Étrépilly and on leaving the village
take the road on the left; cross the river, turn again to the left and follow the track
Heights
Heights
of Penchard Monthyon Darcy of Cuisy
D. PANORAMA OF THE BATTLEFIELD
which climbs the plateau. After a few hundred yards the right slope disappears.
It was at this point that the Panorama D was taken, showing, from the Ger-
man side, the battlefield seen from the French side in Panorama B (p. 104-105).
The road on which the tourist stands goes on to the heights of Varreddes.
Bordered with trenches and machine guns, it constituted the principal line
A corner of the Battlefield
of the German defence south of Étrépilly, the advance lines resting thus: the
first on Penchard-Monthyon heights of Cuisy; the second on Chambry-
Barcy-Marcilly. In this theatre of operations fought: south of the Marcilly-
Étrépilly road, the 55th reserve division, the 45th division and the Moroccan
brigade; at Marcilly and on the plateau north of Étrépilly, which is outlined
on the extreme right of the panorama, crowned by the Champfleury farm,
the 56th reserve division.
Leaving the trenches hastily dug on the Chambry-Barey factory of Marcilly
line, the troops of the Lamaze group, before getting up to the German trenches
had to cross about 1/4 miles of uncovered ground, under terrible fire. It

É TRÉPILLY
121
was in one of these attacks, starting from Barcy, that Major d'Urbal (brother
of the general) fell at the head of his Zouaves as he drew them along, waving
Factory
at Marcilly
Road from Marcilly
to Étrépilly
Farm
Farm
of Nongloire of Champfleury
OF THE FRENCH RIGHT
his cane. He was brought back to the French lines, thanks to the devotion
of one of the few officers who survived the attack, helped by two Chasseurs
d'Afrique. Because of his great height the Commander's body could not be
carried back, and they were obliged to place it on a horse; the group returned
huts to Barcy under a hailstorm of bullets. A shell hole in the cemetery
served for a grave.
A corner of the Battlefield
In the counter-attacks, the Germans, as they left their trenches, also
suffered serious losses, as one can judge from the photograph above, which
was taken in front of the position.
The tourist will take the road he came by to return to Étrépilly, leaving the
church (the roof of which was hit by several shells) on the right and taking the
Trocy road on the left.

ÉTRÉPILLY TO MEAUX
(About 12 miles)
Via TROCY, Gué-À-TRESMES, VARREDDES
The beautiful, shady road that leads from Étrépilly to_Trocy first crosses a
hollow, then winds up the hillside to the plateau on which Trocy is built (about
2 miles). On arriving,
turn to the left and 80
enter the heart of the village.
Trocy did not actually
suffer from the German
attacks, but it was bom-
barded by the French
artillery In front of
the horse-pond, on the
left of the little church,
stands a farm (view oppo-
site) which in 1917 still
showed traces of the 75
shell which damaged its
roof. Other houses were
completely destroyed.
The Germans had con-
centrated their chief ar-
tillery forces on the Trocy
Farm that was shelled
plateau. Heavy and light
batteries were in position
north and south of the village, the greater part north, between Manoeuvre,
Plessy-Placy and Trocy.
The intense cannonade pouring from this dominating platform very much
hampered the French in their progress on all the center of the front.
The position was evacuated by the Germans on the 9th, not without serious
losses of light artillery, as shown by the photograph below and that at the
top of the following page.
German Gun destroyed on Trocy Plateau

TROCY
123
German Guns destroyed on Trocy Plateau
The limber (shown below), abandoned at the side of the road, is an infantry
limber which contained rifle and machine gun cartridges. The French artillery
which swept the plateau hit this limber in the course of the retreat.
German Limber on Trocy Plateau

124
GUÉ-À-TRES MES
Gate of Trocy
Rounding the horse-pond, we take the road which runs under the monumental
gateway, a view of which is given above.
This gate is one of the chief remains of the fortifications which guarded
Trocy in the Middle Ages.
It will be seen that the strategetic importance of the position has at all
times been appreciated at its full value.
Having passed through the gate, we take, 100 yards further on, to the left, the
road that dips into a hollow, on the opposite slope of which stands out the fine
farm of Beauvoir.
We reach this farm by a zigzag ascent which comes on the Route Nationale
(N 36). We then turn to the right and go down toward Gué-à-Tresmes.
This little place played the part, in relation to the extreme German left,
that Trocy played in the center. It was a heavy artillery position supporting
the advanced line of defence.
At the entrance to the village, on the left side of the road, is a large resi-
dence surrounded by a park. It
was occupied by the Germans
and converted into a field hospi-
tal. In order to make room
rapidly, the furniture was flung
outside. It was thus that the
billiard table was found in the
park. A soldier who was evi-
dently a lover of fresh air used
it as a shelter. In the photograph
opposite can be seen the fish-
kettle which did duty as a
basin, frequent washing being
indispensable during those hot
September days.
The façade shown in the
view is one which faces the
The Billiard Table of the Chateau
road.

GUÉ-À-TRESMES
125
A certain number
of German wounded
died in the hospital
and were buried in the
garden; their belong-
ings were left behind
at the time of the re-
treat, as shown in the
photograph opposite.
This retreat must
have taken the occu-
pants unawares, for a
meal was on the offi-
cers' table when the
French troops entered
the chateau.
At the cross - roads,
about 300 yds. after the
chateau, go to the left
Personal Belongings left at Gué-à-Tresmes by the Germans
along the Thérouanne;
road; 200 yds. further along this road is seen (on the right the place where a
group of German artillery was hidden. Well-screened in the hollow shown
in the view below, several heavy batteries, for a long time out of reach of
the 75's, made the advance of the French right on the plateau of Chambry-
Barcy extremely difficult. They also hampered the left of the British army
and the 8th French division on the left bank of the Marne. In the course of
this tour we have already seen several examples of the installation of German
batteries. Wherever the ground admitted it, the guns were placed in a hollow,
visible only to aerial observers. Telephones linked them up with the posts
established on the ridges whence the firing was directed.
Returning to the Route Nationale, turn to the left toward Varreddes. On both
sides of the road, which was their main way of retreat, the Germans had
made lines of defence: trenches were dug and furnished with machine guns,
other guns and light batteries were established as supports.
The whole, which joined up with the defence works of Trocy, constituted a
position of withdrawal for the Étrépilly-Varreddes line, seen in Panorama
B (p. 104-105). This was the first stage of the retreat on the 9th of September.
Hollow where the German Artillery was placed

126
VARREDDES
This panorama was taken at the intersection of the Meaux to Soissons
road (N 36) and a path which leads to Étrépilly, in the field which overhangs
Varreddes Road from Meaux to Soissons
The Ourcq Canal
E. PANORAMA OF THE
the road and where German machine guns were established, sweeping the
Route Nationale and the bottom of the hollow with their fire.
It is easy to understand why the Germans attached so much importance to
the Varreddes position.
The slopes west of the hollow (they form the background on the left of the
panorama) were protected from the blows of the French artillery; by availing
themselves of this protection the Germans could easily bring up supplies or
relieve the defenders on the crests facing Chambry- Barcy, which ensured
their resistance until the moment when the general trend of the action forced
them to fall back.
After having exam-
ined Panorama E, con-
tinue the descent toward
Varreddes (about 712
miles).
Before crossing the
canal, on the right, one
can see a 75 shell which
has remained fixed in
the wall of an inn,
of which the sign has
now become: "A
l'obus."
We now enter the Main
Street of Varreddes.
At the entrance of
the village is a certain
number of houses that
were damaged by the
German Wounded in front of Varreddes Town Hall
bombardment.

VARRE D DES
127
The German wounded, forsaken during the hasty retreat of September 9th,
were sheltered and nursed at the town hall. See photograph on previous
Road to Étrépilly
VARREDDES HOLLOW
page. When leaving the village the Germans took twenty hostages with them,
all very old, among them the vicar.
Three succeeded in escaping, but for the others the retreat proved (as will
be seen) a veritable torture. Seven of them were murdered.
On the first day they were forced to march 17 miles. Mr. Jourdain, aged 77,
and Mr. Milliardet, aged 78, taken away with only slippers on their feet,
were the first to fall from exhaustion; they were shot point-blank. Soon
after, Mr. Vapaille suffered the same fate.
The next day Mr. Terré, an invalid, fell and was killed with revolver shots;
Mr. Croix and Mr. Llévin
stumbled in their turn and
were also shot.
All three were from 58
to 64 years of age. Finally,
Mr. Mesnil, aged 67, utterly
exhausted, gave in; his skull
was smashed in with blows
from the butt-end of a rifle.
The other hostages, better
able to endure, held on as
far as Chauny and were sent
to Germany by rail. They
were repatriated five months
later.
After having traversed Var-
reddes and before recrossing the
canal, a tree will be noticed
on the left of the road (the
38th on the way out) which
has been pierced by a 75 shell
as by a punching-press.
Tree pierced by a 75 Shell

128
MEAUX
Road from Meaux
to Soissons
Varreddes
Bridge of Germigny-l'Évêque
F. PANORAMA OF THE VARREDDES HOLLOW
Forty yards past the canal, on the right, are seen several paths which scale the
heights. We climb the one on the right up to the summit, where the above pano-
rama was taken, giving a view of the Varreddes hollow in the opposite direc-
tion to that of Panorama E (p. 126-127).
Germigny, seen on the right of the photograph, is known through having
been Bossuet's summer residence. The Germans had a heavy battery there
which bombarded Meaux in the early days of September. On the 8th they re-
crossed the Marne, blowing up the bridge behind them.
The appearance of a French reconnoitering party composed of a sergeant-
major and nine men had sufficed to cause the evacuation of the position,
which, with the river behind it, seemed a dangerous one. These ten heroes
were killed in the course of the battle and buried at Germigny. On the
9th the Marne was crossed on a pontoon bridge built under fire by British
engineers, whose heroic tenacity triumphed after seventeen fruitless attempts.
The Germans, attacked besides on the heights where the tourist now
stands, were obliged to retire rapidly from the hollow by the Soissons road,
under fire from the French batteries.
On the crest of the hill a path crosses the ascending one near two isolated walnut
trees. On the right this road goes to Étrépilly; it constituted the German
line of defence which is the subject of Panorama B (p. 104-105).
The tourist will go to the left between the two walnut trees and explore the
crest which formed the redoutable position occupying the background
of the view on page 103. It was well provided with trenches, machine guns
and light batteries, and all attacks against it failed, until the 9th of September.
Turning again to the left about half a mile further on, at the first fork in the
road, the tourist will follow a little path which will bring him back to the Route
Nationale at the point where he left it. The walk takes about thirty minutes.
The two paths by which the ascent and descent have been made served the
Germans as channels for bringing up supplies. Their rearguard, which
disputed the ground foot by foot, was routed there by a bayonet attack.
We now return toward Meaux. The retreating Germans followed this
road in an opposite direction, pursued by the French shells.
At the highest point on the right is seen the trunk of a tree decapitated
by artillery fire, at the top of which the navvies of the entrenched camp of
Paris have fixed a branch, so as to form a cross: humble and touching tribute
to the brave men killed in going up to the attack.
Before arriving at Meaux we have a beautiful view of the town.
under the railway; then, on the right, take the N 3 or Rue du Faubourg Saint
Nicholas, which brings us back to the Cathedral (about 112 miles).
We pass
II.
THE MARSHES OF SAINT GOND
COULOMMIERS-PROVINS-SÉZANNE

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FROM MEAUX TO COULOMMIERS
(About 2612 miles, see map opposite)
FROM MEAUX TO CRÉCY-EN-BRIE
Leaving Meaux Cathedral by the Rue Saint Etienne, which skirts it and
is continued by the Rue Saint Nicholas, turn to the right 100 yds. after passing
the apse of the Cathedral into the Rue du Grand Cerf in order to gain the “Pont
du Marché." After crossing it, keep straight on in the Rue du Marché, leaving
on the right the market where the famous Brie cheeses are sold wholesale. Take
the Rue Cornillon and the Rue Faubourg Cornillon, and at the top of the slope
look back in order to have a general view of Meaux dominated by its cathedral,
On leaving the town continue straight along N 36 to Couilly (512 miles) where
we arrive at the valley of the Grand Morin.
(The quickest road from Couilly to Crécy-en-Brie is N 34, which turns
to the left into the paved street of Couilly before arriving at the bridge;
the prettiest road is that indicated to the tourist, on the opposite bank of
the Morin.)
Go to Saint Germain, traversing the bridge and the level crossing and turn
to the left immediately after passing the railway into the Rue de la Gare. Turn
to the left again into the Rue de Villiers, which is bordered by telegraph poles.
The road follows the railway which is on the left.
On the other side of the valley are to be seen the red-tiled roofs of the
modern buildings of the Home for Actors, built on the site of the old Abbey
of Pont-aux-Dames. This abbey, which was founded in the xiiith century,
was destroyed during the Revolution. Louis XIV sent the Abbess of Port-
Royal-des-Champs to end her days there after the destruction of the famous
abbey of the Jansenists. Mme. du Barry, favorite of Louis XV, after an
eventful life, became acquainted with the calm and self-denial of Pont-aux-
Dames, when the king was no more.
The Home was founded in 1903 by the comedian Coquelin Sr., who
died there in 1909 while on one of his visits to it. He is buried in the grounds,
where his statue also is. Pont-aux-Dames has room for eighty inmates.
There is also an open-air theatre used for performances. Open to visitors on
Thursdays and Sundays from 2 p. m. to 5 p. m. (1 franc each). The entrance
Bridge over the Morin
132
VILLIERS-SUR-MORIN
is 1200 yds. from Couilly bridge on N 34 which follows the right bank of
the river.
The road draws nearer to the Morin and the railway changes over to the right
bank. One hundred yards after passing "La Picardie" (little rustic inn) we arrive
at Villiers-sur-Morin and turn sharply to the left on the first street.
At this crossing, standing against the house on the right, is a pyramidical
monument to the memory of the painter Amédée Servin, who died in 1884.
His medallion was engraved by Falguière. It was Servin, together with
the native poet Jules Grenier, who introduced the valley of the Morin to
the public. A little school of artists was formed there, which recalled that
of Barbizon in the forest of Fontainebleau or that on the banks of the Yvette.
That part known by the name of the “Morin des Peintres" (the artists' Morin)
stretches from Couilly to Tigeaux (south of Crécy); many artists go there
every year.
Traverse the bridge over the Morin and the level crossing. Immediately after
turn to the right (about 834 miles) into N 34, toward Crécy-en-Brie.
CRÉCY-EN-BRIE
POPULATION :1.059 inhabitants. ALTITUDE: 50 mètres.
N. 34
o
COULOMMIERS 14
La Chapelle-sur-Crécy /
STATION
TET
N. 34
N.34
Couilly 5
MEAUX 151
Anches Fortifications
: : : : : : : : : : : : :
his Gall
Nationales
III
du Marché
B.
Deshullers
SCALE:
JUR. Jean de
100
200 300 m.
Serret.
Rote Barrois
мог,
palmi Gilles
Grand
1 PL. DU MARCHÉ
2 PL. CALIUS
H,G Mairie, Gendarmerie
A HOTEL DES FAMILLES
Poste,Télégraphe,Téléphone
II
MELUN 43
D. 35
G. C. 20
Tigeaux 5
COULOMMIERS 25
Plan of Crécy
The Grand Morin was crossed on the 6th of September, 1914, at the begin-
ning of the battle of the Marne, by the British troops who utilized the several
bridges between Villiers-sur-Morin and Coulommiers. The Germans offered
but a feeble resistance; their forces at this point consisting merely of a screen
of cavalry supported by a few artillery and infantry units, whose task was
to cover the retreat northward of the two army corps recalled by Von Klick
to resist the flank attack of the Army of Paris, to the north-west of Meaux.
Shortly before arriving at Crécy, the road traverses, by means of a level crossing,
the little railway line already met with scveral times since Couilly and which
has its terminus at Crécy.
Crécy-en-Brie
The entrance to the burgh (about 10 miles) is marked by a little brick
belfry, surmounting a tower which belongs to the ancient fortifications. That
part of the Morin which flows at its foot forms the boundary of the town.
and served as moat to the ramparts erected in the Middle Ages. Of these
important defences only a few scattered towers remain; there were originally
fifty-five.
From the bridge we have on the right a picturesque view of the Tanneries

CRÉCY-EN-BRIE
133
shown in the photo oppo-
site.
We should advise the
tourist not to cross the bridge
but to follow on the left a
pretty avenue planted with
trees which encircles Crécy
on the outside.
The avenue is not ac-
cessible to motors. The
latter may take the Rue du
Marché, the Rue Serret,
and on the left of the Place
Camus, the Rue
the Rue Borrois
continued by the Rue Jean-
de-Com pans. At the bridge
over the Morin, at the ex-
Arm of the Morin
Foot Bridge over an Arm of the Morin
tremity of the town, (see
photo opposite) the motor
may await the tourists who
will rejoin it by the pretty
shady walk beside the Morin
shown in the above photo-
graph.
Each one of the houses
bordering the river has
communication with the
boulevard by means of a
foot-bridge, some of which
are also draw-bridges. The
little wash houses fitted up in
the lower stories of the dwell-
ings add to the picturesque-
ness of this rustic corner.
11
Bridge over an Arm of the Morin

134
CRÉCY-EN-BRIE
The ramparts, which, in former
times were reflected in the Morin,
have almost disappeared; the op-
posite view depicts a remaining
vestige, and during the walk others
will be noticed.
Having regained the car, if it is in-
tended to visit the beautiful church of
La Chapelle-sur-Crécy (see p. 135-
136), cross the bridge over the Morin
and follow the Route Nationale (N 39)
for about half a mile.
(This is also the road to take,
if instead of following the tour by
the valley of the Grand Morin,
described hereafter, tourists pre-
fer to go straight on to Coulom-
miers, about 82 miles from Crécy,
The tour is much prettier, but
little over half a mile longer.)
After visiting La Chapelle-sur-
Crécy return to Crécy by the same
road, cross the bridge over the Morin,
follow the Rues Jean-de-Compans
and Barrois and come to a halt
at the Place Camus. Take a few
steps toward the church in the Rue de
Tower Belonging to the Old Wall
Penthièvre and glance at the arm of
the Morin which crosses the street.
On the right is an old mill; on the left the charming scene reproduced below;
in front is the tower of the church and its most interesting part.
Returning to the car, take the Rue Dam-Gilles, immediately to the left of the
Rue de Penthièvre.
Cross the Morin (about 12 miles), then at the fork in the road 50 yards after
passing the bridge, turn to the left into G. C. 20, toward Tigeau and Dammartin.
Arm of the Morin

LA CHAPELLE-SUR-CRÉCY
135
La Chapelle-sur-Crécy
AMICA
This beautiful
church, classed as
an historical monu-
ment, dates from the
XIIth century and
was restored in the
xvth, thanks to the
generosity of Jeanne
de Navarre, wife of
Philippe le Bel.
Its situation on
a lower level than
the Route Nationale
has necessitated the
raising of the ground.
At the present time
the height of the
building is diminished
by about ten feet, a
fact which destroys
The Church scen from the Road
the balance of its pro-
portions. This impression strikes us at once on entering, for the door is almost
reduced to its ogival part. In the interior, as the view below shows, there is a
flagrant disproportion between the height of the pillars and that of the arcades.
The Triforium encircling the nave and choir is worthy of notice. The
capitals of the pillars are finely carved, and the grimacing heads which ter-
minate the vaulting shafts of the choir supporting the ribs of the vault, show
spirited workmanship. Before the window at the end of the church, on the
right on entering, is a group in painted stone dating from the Renaissance,
It is reproduced in the photograph on page 136.
1
Nave of the Church

136
FAREMOUTIERS
FROM CRÉCY-EN-BRIE TO COULOMMIERS
Via THE VALLEY OF THE GRAND MORIN
On turning to the left on leaving Crécy
into G. C. 20, after the bridge over the Morin
a mill is to be seen on an island in the middle
of the river, then, on the other bank, standing
boldly against the sky line, the church of La
Chapelle-sur-Crécy. Toward the final houses,
telegraph posts begin to mark the road and
on following them we soon reach Tigeaux,
which we pass through (nearly fifteen miles),
then Dammartin. Enter the latter, turn-
ing to the left after leaving the cemetery, and
going up toward the church (about 16 miles)
skirt it and leave it on the left-hand. Take
the first road to the left after passing the
church, and follow the wall of the castle park.
Before passing the end of the wall, take
on the right the road to Guérard, which
dominates the valley of the Morin. The
road rejoins the railway, and fringes it,
leaving it on the right. A pretty descent
through woods leads down to the valley. When
the road begins to mount, before arriving at
Group Representing the Trinity
Guérard, take the road which goes up on the
right (about 1872 miles), without entering the village. Eight hundred yards further
on, at the cross roads, turn to the left toward La Celle, which we pass through
(about 19 miles).
We leave on the left, in La Celle, the road which crosses the Morin, and
which, after following the right bank, rejoins, by way of Tres mes and near
Pommeuse, 334 miles further on, D 16 coming from Faremoutiers. We ad-
vise tourists to take the latter (D 16) in order to give more variety to the
tour in climbing the height above the river.
After passing through the lower part of La Celle, the road begins to mount,
traverses a level-crossing, and then by a series of zigzags reaches the height on
which the other part of the village of La Celle is built. Turn to the left in the
Grand Rue (D 16) toward Faremoutiers, the church of which, surmounted
by a tiny steeple, may be perceived in the distance. On arriving at the Place
du Marché at Faremoutiers, turn to the left into the Rue de Moutiers, then to
the right into the Avenue de Garenne, which runs between the church and the
toun hall, and descend into the valley.
Faremoutiers was the "moûtiers" (monastery) of Sainte Fare, who founded
a convent there in the vith century. Among its abbesses was a daughter
of Charlemagne. The nuns belonged to the Order of St. Benedict, and were
much talked of. They had also many disputes with the bishops of Meaux.
The monastic building was destroyed during the Revolution.
Still following D 16, traverse a rather dangerous level-crossing, after which
turn to the right toward Pommeuse. At the cross-roads preceding the village,
turn to the left, leaving the church on the right. Cross the Grand Morin, and,
fifty yards farther on, turn to the right (about 23 miles). It is here that the road which
we crossed at La Celle, and which follows the right bank of the Morin, joins D 16
on which the tourist now is.
At Pommeuse, during the short German occupation at the beginning
of September, 1914, the inhabitants were obliged to erect a barricade
which was destined to bar the passage of the Morin against the British.
One of the workers, not displaying sufficient ardor, was tied to a cart-
wheel.
D 16 leaving Mouroux on the right joins N 34 coming from Crécy; turn
to the right toward Coulommiers (2612 miles).

COULOMMIERS
137
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CHALONS-S-M.10

138
COULOMMIERS
COULOMMIERS
ORIGIN AND PRINCIPAL HISTORICAL FACTS
The following is a poeti-
cal version of the origin of
Coulommiers: When Julius
Czesar arrived in the region
a tower dominating a few
huts stood on the site of the
present town.
A large num-
ber of doves had made their
nests in this tower, and flew
around it, a fact which caused
the spot to be known as Cas-
trum Columbarium, from which
is derived Coulommiers, whose
inhabitants are called
called Col-
umériens.
Coulommiers developed great-
ly under the Counts of Cham-
Lodge of the Guardian of the Castle
pagne; the tower was sur-
rounded by ramparts and protected by a moat fed by the waters of the Grand
Morin. These fortifications have disappeared; only a few fragments, situated
in the Avenue Victor Hugo, remain. Coulommiers was occupied by the English
in the xyth century, by the Russians in 1814, and by the Germans in 1870.
On September 4th, 1914, the retreating British army abandoned Coulom-
miers, from which the greater part of the population had fled, barely 600
inhabitants remaining in the town. The Germans entered on the 5th and
remained until the morning of the 7th. During this short stay they pillaged
methodically and it was only owing to the energy of the mayor, Mr. Delsol,
77 years of age, and of the Procureur de la République, Mr. Chatry, whose
adventures are related below, that Coulommiers did not experience the hor-
rors of Senlis.
Visit to the Town
Enter Coulommiers by the Rue de Paris, which crosses the Rue de Melun
before the Hôtel de l'Ours. Cross this street in order to follow the Rue des Capu-
cins, which forms the continuation of the Rue de Paris.
We arrive before a gateway on the right, closing the picturesque grounds of the
old castle. Enter by the gateway on the left of the principal building. A Ger-
man staff established itself here during the occupation of September, 1914.
Of the xviith century castle built by the Duchess of Longueville, only
the large moat and a few
quaint ruins remain.
We cross the moat by
the bridge shown
shown in the
photograph opposite, and pass
in between two little lodges,
on which some curious carving
is still to be seen (view above);
enter the inner courtyard of
the castle, now transformed
into a garden. On the right
and on the left a few ruins
are to be seen. The view
on page 139 is of those on
the left. After having re-
crossed the bridge, turn to the
left in order to observe the
Bridge over the Castle Moat

COULOMMIERS
139
ancient chapel of the Capu-
cins dating from the Xvith
century. At the far end is
a rood-loft, the rich wood
carvings of which contrast
with the dismantled walls of
the chapel.
Leaving the grounds, take
the Rue des Capucins again,
and on arriving at the Hôtel
de l'Ours (where the Germans
held orgies as well as at the
Hôtel du Soleil Levant, a little
lower down, in the Rue de la
Pêcherie), turn to the right into
Ruins of the Castle
the Rue de Melun.
We arrive at the bridge
from which the photograph below was taken. The building on the left, of which
only a corner is to be seen, is the town hall; further to the right, in the
background and half-hidden by the trees is a large house, which lodged
a German staff during the occupation. Behind the trees is the theatre.
A little beyond the bridge, 7 Rue de la Pecherie, is a green-painted house
where Mr. Chatry, Procureur de la République, was held prisoner. The
latter in his account before the Inquiry Commission recalled the incidents
of his arrest and of his imprisonment.
"In the evening I was at the town hall, when a rough-looking staff officer
came up to me in the Secretary's office saying: 'Take your casque' (the magis-
trate's 'loque') and follow me;' continuing: You said you did not know where
to find any oats; and we have just found some, so you lied; you are a liar and
a swine; come with me and see.'
“I accompanied him to the granary of the town mill, which had been
broken into and pillaged by the Germans. I remarked that after all
there were oats there, and I became again the object of redoubled insults:
'Swine, you will be shot.' And when I protested, declaring my ignorance
of this provision of oats, the officer shouted repeatedly: 'Swine, shut your
inouth;' at the same time I was roughly handled and my arm and shoulder
bruised.
"He then forced me to go round the town looking for more oats.
ilgain insulted and roughly used in a shop where the officer kicked the men
who were there. If within an hour,' he told me, 'you have not found more oats,
you will be shot.'
“After a fresh search I returned to the Place de l'Hôtel-de-Ville, to be
again insulted by the same officer, with whom was another, tall, pale and
bareheaded, with a monocle
in his right eye, who said
mockingly: You are respon-
sible for this; it is all your fault.'
"The first officer then com-
plained that the gas gave a
bad light, and it was in vain
that I explained to him that
all the men from the gas works
had left us. He continued:
:
We know that the town is rich,
we could ask for one million
or even two million francs
here, but if at eight o'clock to-
morrow morning you have not
found 100,000 francs, you will
be shot and the town bom-
The Morin

140
COULOMMIERS
barded and set on fire.' I replied:
You can do what you like with me,
but I cannot possibly find you this
sum, all the inhabitants having left
and taken their money with them.'
I was then arrested, hungry and din-
nerless.
“Shortly after the mayor, Mr.
Delsol, and the town clerk, Mr.
Bard, came to join me. Armed sol-
diers then conducted the three of
us to the Rue de la Pêcherie, to the
house of a druggist named Couesnon
(No. 7), which had been broken into
by the Germans and which served
them as a lock-up. We were led
into the dressing room.
“During the night I overheard
the following conversation which took
place in German between the soldiers
guarding us. I repeat it word for
word: "The Procureur de la Ré-
publique will be shot; the 'gay broth-
ers' of the company have been fetched
to kill him; and the street has been
swept to look nice. Another soldier
replied: "Be careful, he understands
German and is listening to all you say,
Mr. Chatry, Procureur de la République
for he is a wake.'
"About 2 a. m., the platoon came to fetch us, and we descended the stairs.
Below, in the dining-room, a German soldier played Chopin's Funeral March
and other pieces of music for our benefit. We were ordered out into the
street and made to stand on the pavement, all three of us on the same side,
whilst the platoon, with arms ready, stood on the opposite pavement facing
us. We waited thus for fully twenty minutes, after which we were ordered
to join the main body of the army. At about 300 yards beyond Montan-
glaust (the hill overlooking the town to the north), a superior officer of the Death's
Head Hussars said to us: You are free.'
The preceding minute account shows how heavy and painful was the task
of the civil authorities in the occupied towns.
(Leave Mr. Couesnon's house and on coming to the Rue Le Valentin take
it on the right and continue for a few steps toward the Place de l'Hôtel-de-Ville,
in order to have a view of an arm of the Morin bordered by picturesque old houses.
Return to the Rue de la Pêcherie.)
We arrive at the Place Saint
Denis, where is the old xmuth
and xviith century church of
that name, transformed into
barracks during the war (view
opposite).
Turn to the right in front
of the church and take the
Rue du Palais-de-Justice which
leads to the Place Beaure-
paire, on which is the statue
to the hero of Verdun of
1792, Major de Beaurepaire,
who killed himself rather than
sign the capitulation of the
town decided upon by the
communal council.
Church of Saint Denis

FROM COULOMMIERS TO
TO PROVINS
(About 2612 miles)
Leave Coulommiers by the Avenue de Rebais skirting the new church, and
leave it on the right. Cross a little bridge after about a mile, and 1,500 yards
further on, take the road on the right (G. C. 66) which follows the Morin in the
direction of La Ferté-Gaucher.
This part of the river was crossed by the French-British forces only on
September 7th, the British crossing at Coulommiers and in the neighborhood,
the 2nd French Cavalry Corps at La Ferté-Gaucher.
Pass through Chauffry (5 miles) then Jouy-sur-Morin (1034 miles).
Turn to the right in this village, leaving the church on the left, cross the Morin,
then turn to the left; the road passes over the railway, then skirts it to rejoin N
34, in which turn to the left (1142 miles) in order to descend toward La Ferté-
Gaucher. At 400 yards from this crossing, turn to the right into D 4 in the direc-
tion of Courtacon and Provins (a line of telegraph poles breaks off from N 34
to follow D 4). The road ascends and gives a pretty view of La Ferté-Gaucher,
shown in the photograph below.
An anecdote relating to the passage of the Grand Morin has been recalled
by Professor Delbet, whose mother's estate contains a bridge over that river.
A German general obliged Mme. Delbet, aged 77 years, to be present at the
passage of the troops over the bridge, a spectacle which lasted 7 hours. "Ma-
dame," said he, "when you become German, for German you are going
to be, you will feel very proud to have seen my army pass through your gates.
I have besides the intention to order a handsome memorial tablet to be fixed
there mentioning this fact.” And as Mme. Delbet protested at the idea of
becoming German, he continued: “The French race is degenerate and worn
out. As you belong to a family of doctors, you must know that this is a fact.
The French are done for. I may as well tell you what we mean to do. We
shall keep the finest men and marry them to solid German girls; in this way they
may be able to have healthy children. As for the other survivors, we shall ship
them off to America.” A few days after Mme. Delbet had the pleasure of seeing
the German troops recrossing the river in haste pursued by French cavalry.
At the Château de la Masure, at about 2 miles south of La Ferté-Gaucher,
much more tragic events took place, as the Inquiry Commission has established.
The occupants were Mr. Quenescourt, late mayor of Sézanne, aged 77 years, with
an old servant and a lady from a neighboring hamlet, who had come to seek refuge.
La Ferté-Gaucher, seen from the Provins Road

142
COURTA CON
On September 5th,
several German sol-
diers and a non-com-
missioned officer took
possession of the es-
tate. In order to
protect one of the
women from the bru-
tal attentions of the
latter, Mr. Quenes-
court sent her to hide
in the farm near by.
The German has-
tened to look for
her, found her,
brought her back to
the castle and took
her to an attic. The
old gentleman, wish-
ing to save her, fired
Burned Houses
his revolver up the
stairs. He was killed point-blank by the German, who then ordered the woman
out of the attic and handed her over to two soldiers who assaulted her in the
room where lay the dead man; during this time the first brute fell upon the old
servant.
At the cross-roads, a trifle over half a mile from the spot where the view was taken,
turn to the left, abandoning the line of telegraph poles.
On arriving at Courtaçon, we cross D 8, (about 17 miles) at the spot
where the view above was taken (the photographer standing before the police
station, which was burned in September, 1914, but has since been rebuilt).
Continue straight along D 43 toward Provins; on the left is the group of
burned houses shown in the view below.
The Germans occupied Courtacon on September 6th and immediately
set fire to it, after having drenched the houses with paraffin oil. The inhabi-
tants were obliged to furnish the faggots of wood and the matches. The
mayor and five other hostages were led away and guarded in the midst of
the troops during the combats which took place around the village. After
pretending to shoot them the Germans sent them home again.
A young man named Rousseau, a conscript of the 1914 class, was torn
from his house with blows from the butt-end of rifles and led with his hands
tied behind his back after the other hostages. Although the mayor declared
that the youth's class had not yet been called up, he was shot at fifty yards
from the village as a spy.
On leaving we may
see, if we look behind
us, the line of heights
running eastward
from Courtaçon to
Esternay, and on
which were establish-
ed the German posi-
tions when Franchet
d'Esperey's army be-
gan its offensive.
We arrive without
difficulty at Provins
(about 2612 miles)
after a zigzaging de-
scent, which gives us a
charming view of the
town (see p. 143-144).
More Burned Houses

PROVINS
143
PROVINS
ORIGIN AND PRINCIPAL HISTORICAL FACTS
N.-D. du Val
St. Quiriace Caesar's Tower
General View of Provins
The Upper Town of Provins dates from the Gallo-Roman period. In
the murd century a "castrum" was there established on the hill. The Roman
General Probus, afterward emperor, halted there toward the year 271, and
caused the walls of the fortress to be repaired. Domitian had forbidden
the cultivation of the vine in Gaul, but Probus, during his sojourn at Pro-
vins, abolished this prohibition and thus won the gratitude of the inhabitants.
This fact has given rise to one of the versions of the origin of the word "Pro-
vins," which is supposed to mean "the vine of Probus."
Parcus TLLOX
Provins in the XVIth Century

144
PROVINS
The Lower Town is of monastic origin. In the virth century some monks,
flying before the Norman invasion, took refuge in the forest which stretched
at the foot of the fortress and there buried the remains of the martyr, St.
Ayoul. The body was discovered in 996, and a church was erected on the
spot. The church was followed by a large monastery of the Cistercian order,
around which grew up the Lower Town.
In the xth century Provins passed from the royal domain into the hands
of the Counts of Champagne, under whose rule it flourished exceedingly.
Many buildings were erected: abbeys, churches, palaces and a hospital;
and a new wall enclosed the town. Commerce and industry flourished.
Dye-works, tanneries, weaving and the manufacture of cutlery occupied
thousands of workmen, and the town counted, we are told, 80,000 inhabitants,
(there are now 9,000). Its fairs were famous and were visited by strangers
from all parts of Europe; even the silks and carpets of the East were to be
found there. Business was carried on by means of money struck at Provins.
The "sou provinois” (money of Provins) was accepted far beyond the borders
of France.
This brilliant period did not outlast the xenth century. In 1270 Count
Henri-le-Gros established heavy taxes on commerce and industries which
the principal citizens refused to pay. The mayor, Guillaume Pentecôte
to calm them, lengthened the hours of the workmen, who revolted and put
him to death. The English prince, Edmund of Lancaster, who had married
the widow of Henri-le-Gros, cruelly repressed these troubles. Provins finally
lost its independence by the marriage of the daughter of Henri-le-Gros with
the King of France, Philippe le Bel (1284).
In 1870 Provins was occupied by the Prussians and suffered many requi-
sitions. In 1914 the German wave stopped at its gates.
Provins is also known under the poetical name of “City of Roses,” because
of the profusion of these flowers, formerly its beauty and its wealth. Accord-
ing to tradition the red rose of Provins was brought back from the Crusades
by Thibaut IV; the Earl of Lancaster introduced it into his coat-of-arms and
thus it became the rival of the white rose of York during the War of the Roses
which, in the xvth century, drenched England with blood.
The Upper Town, Provins

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PROVINS
145
Visit to the Town
(See plan inserted between pages 144-145)
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Enter Provins by the Courloison Gate and Bridge, and take the Rue Cour-
loison which follows. At the end of the street turn to the right into the Rue Abailard
in order to arrive at the Place St. Ayoul, which faces the facade of the church
of that name. If it is considered desirable to take lunch before visiting the town
go directly to one of the hotels indicated, returning later to the Place Saint Ayoul.
Church of Saint Ayoul (classed as an historical monument)
We have seen on page 144 that a monastery was erected on the spot where
the body of the Martyr Saint Ayoul was found. About 1122 the great theologian
Abailard, cruelly
mutilated by the
vengeance of
Canon Fulbert,
uncle of Helöise,
and persecuted
on account of the
boldness of his
views, took ref-
uge in the mon-
astery adjoining
the church of
Saint Ayoul.
He continued
to teach there
and gathered
round him as
many as 2,000
students.
B:
Apse of Saint Ayoul

146
PROVINS
Saint Ayoul was burned, then re-
built in the with century, and re-
stored in the xivth and xvith centuries.
The façade is reproduced in the pho-
tograph on page 145. In spite of muti-
lations suffered during the Revolution,
and the inclemencies of the weather,
the great doorway is still worthy of
interest.
A Renaissance gallery, terminated
by a lantern, flanks on the left the
great bare gable pierced by three win-
dows which surmount the gate. The
whole has thus a very original appear-
ance.
In order to see the choir, xiiith and
xivth centuries), the Chapel, (xivth
century) which adjoins it, and the
transept (with century), go around the
church to the left of the facade. This
part of the building, which appears
in the view at the foot of the preceding
page, is now used by the military
authorities as a fodder store.
The Roman tower which rises at the
The Crucifixion at Saint Ayoul
intersection of the transept no longer
possesses its belfry, which was destroyed by fire. The bells now used are
those of the tower of Nôtre Dame du Val.
In the interior, in the part reserved for worship, the central nave and the
side-aisles of the xiiith century may be visited. The north aisle was doubled
in the xvith century by a second nave.
The most interesting objects are the xvirth century pulpit, and a fine
reredos, also of the xviith century, in carved wood, above the high altar,
It contains a picture, "Jesus in the Temple," painted in 1654 by the artist
Stella, of Lyons, who, falling ill whilst passing through Provins, had been
cared for in one of the convents in the town.
ANTONIO
Angel Musician
Angel Musician
Renaissance Virgin

PROVINS
147
一
​delle
In the Chapel of the Virgin, on the right
of the high altar, is some beautiful wood-
panelling, dating also from the xviith
century. It is by the same hand as the
carved reredos and is the work of Pierre
Blasser of Amiens. Standing against the
panelling is a delicate Virgin in ivory
the xvith century, reproduced on page 146.
To the left of the high altar is a group
representing the Virgin and Christ crucified,
between Mary Magdalene and Saint John.
These statues belong to the xvith cen-
tury, as do also the smaller ones in white
marble, representing angel musicians, which
ornament the altar placed in the angle of
the church on the left on entering (see photo
p. 146.).
On leaving Saint Ayoul take a few steps
Sainte Croix
along the first street to the right in order to
glance at the tower of Notre Dame du Val
(classed as an historical monument). The tower may be seen in the view at the
foot of page 145. It was built in the xvith century on the site of an ancient gate.
Its construction occupied four years and only cost 1400 "livres" (about $280),
the workmen at this period receiving 2 sous (about 2 cents) a day. The
church and the cloister belonging to the tower disappeared during the
Revolution.
Returning to the Place Saint Ayoul, cross it on the right side in all its length,
and take the Rue de la Cordonnerie, which continues it.
It was at No. 17 that the poet Hégésippe Moreau was brought up and
where he worked as a typographer. He has sung of Provins and the Voulzie
in verses which are well-known:
La Voulzie, est-ce un fleuve aux grandes îles? Non,
Mais, avec un murmure aussi doux que son nom,
Un tout petit ruisseau coulant, visible à peine:
Un géant altéré le boirait d'une haleine,
Le nain vert Obéron, jouant au bord des flots,
Sauterait par-dessus sans mouiller ses grelots.
Cross the Place de l'Hôtel-de-Ville, and
following the Rue du Val, stop at the corner
of the Rue Sainte Croix in order to visit
the church of this name a few steps further
on.
Whilst the tourist continues his wall
toward the Hospital-General and the ram-
parts, which are not accessible to motor-
cars, the latter may go to and wait at the
Porte de Jouy, following the Rue du Val con-
tinued by the Rue St. Thibaut, which climbs
to the Upper Town, coming out on to the
Place du Châtel; cross it diagonally, then
follow the Rue Couverte and the Rue de
Jouy.
Church of Sainte Croix
This church was originally the Chapel
of Saint Laurent des Ponts (it was impos-
sible to enter it, save by bridges thrown
across the gutters which are now covered).
Doorwny at Sainte Croix

148
PROVINS
TUT
It was enlarged in the xmuth century
and took its present name on the re-
turn from the Crusades of Count Thi-
baut IV of Champagne, who presented
it with a fragment of the Cross, which
he had brought from Jerusalem.
The church was destroyed by fire in
the xivth century and rebuilt during
the xvith. During the Revolution it
became a saltpeter factory.
The most interesting part of the facade
is the doorway of the side-aisle (see page
147) which is a beautiful specimen of
xvith century art.
Above the transept rises a with cen-
tury tower, whose semi-circular belfry
windows on the lower stage have been
blocked up. The upper part is sur-
mounted by a modern spire.
In the interior, the nave and side-
aisles date from the xiiith century, but
the vaulting has been restored in recent
times. It is to be remarked that the
pillars have not their normal height.
The reason is that the level of the Stained Glass Windows, Sainte Croix Church
ground had to be very much raised in
order to protect the church from the floods which were frequent before the
construction of the "Fausse Rivière" which now drains the town.
As at Saint Ayoul, the
north aisle was doubled
in the xyith century. This
part of the church is in-
teresting on account of
its moulded pillars the
carved capitals of which
represent fantastic animals,
as may be seen in the
photograph opposite.
The choir, which was
rebuilt toward the middle of
the xvith century, is sur-
rounded by a double ambu-
latory, and the screen which
shuts it off is a beautiful piece
of wrought-iron work.
A chapel terminates the
Pillar, Sainte Croix Church
apse, where are to be seen
three windows of gray-toned stained glass, also dating from the xvith century.
In the photograph above is the one
on the left of the Chapel; it repre-
sents the Annunciation.
The baptistery (in the left angle
of the church on entering), is closed
off by a railing which may be
perceived in the view above. It
contains an interesting xinth cen-
tury font, on which are carved
a series of figures taking part in a
baptismal procession (see page
149).
Capital of Pillar, Sainte Croix Church

PROVINS
149
Beside the railing of
the baptistery is a fine
wrought iron lectern,
dating from the xviith
century and reproduced
in the photograph to the
left.
Worthy of notice also
is a small stone stoop,
dating from the with
century, which stands at
the entrance to the south
aisle (photograph opposite).
On leaving Sainte Croix,
แจ้งโอน
turn to the right into the
Rue Sainte Croix ; then
take the first street on the
left, at the end of which
may be seen, on the right,
in the Rue de la Biblio-
Stoup, Sainte Croix
Lectern, Sainte Croix théque, the entrance to a
public garden left to the town by Mr. Gairner.
Before entering it, take a few steps to the left as far as the little river, Le
Durteint, which, flowing between the houses, forms a picturesque sight.
Cross the garden, in the middle of which is the former residence of the
donor, now transformed into a public library and museum. Passing along-
side a monument to the memory of the sons of Provins killed in action. we
leave the garden by the little entrance opening on to the Boulevard d'Aligre. This
boulevard, constructed on the site of the ramparts, forms a pretty walk.
On the other side of it, opposite the Jardin Garnier, is the mineral water
establishment. The ferruginous waters of Provins were discovered in 1646.
These waters are used for drinking and bathing,
On taking the Boulevard d'Aligre to the left, we perceive, standing out on the
right, the Hôpital-Général. In order to reach it, cross the canal by the foot-
bridge, and follow the path which leads to the foot of this building and to a gate
giving access to the terraced gardens. Turn to the right in front of the gate,
following the wall, then take a steep path, half-way up which is the entrance-
door. Ring and ask for permission to visit the "hospital."
Font, Sainte Croix

150
PROVINS
Hôpital-Général (classed as an Historical Monument)
Cloister, Hôpital Général
We must climb a double staircase
to reach the upper terrace where the
hospital proper stands,
The beautiful view of the whole
town is alone well worth this visit.
The hospital was originally a con-
vent of the Cordelières, founded in
1237 by Thibaut-le-Chansonnier,
Count of Champagne. Tradition re-
lates that he decided to build a convent
because of a vision which came to him
one night in his palace in the Upper
Town; he saw Sainte Catherine on the
hill opposite tracing the outlines of a
building with her sword.
The convent was several times de-
stroyed by fire.
Henry IV made it his headquarters
during the siege of Provins in 1592,
when he narrowly escaped death by a
cannon ball which killed several of his
officers.
In 1748 Louis XV turned the
convent into a Hôpital Général.
Today it is a home for old people
and orphan children, managed by
nuns, who act as guides to tour-
ists desirous of visiting the estab-
ment.
The galleries of the clois-
ters, dating from the Xivth
and xvith centuries, are inter-
esting, as showing specimens of
very fine timber-work. The
foilage of the capitals of the
pillars is also to be remarked (see
photograph opposite.
In the old chapter-room some
handsome vaulting is still to be
seen.
In the centre of the chapel is a little
stone monument of the xunth century
(view opposite), which contains the heart
of Thibaut, the founder of the monastery,
that of his wife, Isabel of France,
daughter of St. Louis, and that of her
son. It consists of a carved and gilded
metal cover surmounting six panels,
each one containing under a canopy a
monk reading a book.
The visit ended, we retrace our steps to
the Boulevard d'Aligre and follow it to the
right, crossing the Durteint. The city
wall begins at this point.
Cloister, Hôpital Général
13
Monument of Thibaut's Heart

PROVINS
151
The Ramparts (Historical Monument)
The line of the
ramparts climbs up-
ward. At the sum-
mit is a doorway
pierced in a part of
the wall which juts
from the principal
line of ramparts. It
is the "Porte Fan-
eron" and formed
part of the original
wall which surroun-
ded the Upper Town.
Under the Counts
of Champagne the
ramparts were con-
siderably developed,
and in the XIIIth
century were made
Entrance to the Turret, the Trou-Au-Chat
to include the Lower
Town. The opening
in the wall on the right of the above view leads to a xunth century tower. The
exit is by the "Trou-au-Chat," so called because it was formed during a siege
by a "cat" (a form of catapult for throwing heavy stones). The photograph
below shows the picturesque view obtained from the interior of the turret.
Take the climbing path amidst the trees toward the top of the hill. It is a
pretty walk and affords a good opportunity to judge of the solidity of the
walls, which are dotted here and there with towers. The path ends at the
Porte de Jouy, where we shall find the car which we left in the Lower Town,
and which has followed the directions on page 147.
The Ramparts seen from the Trou-Au-Chat

152
PROVINS
a
La PORTE
DE JOUY
(the Jouy Gate) repro-
duced opposite was con-
structed in the
the XIIth
century and demolished
in the XVIIIth, as its
keep threatened to fall.
It comprised two gates,
two portcullises and
drawbridge. A subter-
ranean passage united the
two opposite sides; its
entrance is still to be seen
on the interior of the left-
hand portion.
Continue the visit of
the walls by the outer
"boulevard” which is ac-
cessible to motors. This
part of the fortifications
is being restored at pres-
ent. The way leads past
the BRÈCHE DES ANGLAIS
(the English Breach) (pho-
tograph opposite), by
which the English are
said to have effected an
entrance in 1432. The
great corner tower, the
foremost on the photo-
graph below is the TOUR
AUX ENGINS: it is 65 feet
high and its walls are 8
feet thick
Porte de Jouy
Brèche des Anglais
The Ramparts

PROVINS
153
We arrive at the
handsome Porte Saint
Jean by which we re-
enter Provins.
The PORTE SAINT
JEAN defended the
old Paris road. It
was built in the
with century and
strengthened in the
xiith, and was sur-
mounted by a keep
which has since dis-
appeared. A draw-
bridge, a portcullis
and a double door
presented successive
obstacles to assail-
ants. The masonry
of the walls is worthy
of note, the stones being dressed in emboss-
ment, that is to say, instead of being flat,
they are protruding. This arrangement
gave a greater force of resistance.
The guard rooms on the ground floor of
the two towers communicate with each other
by means of a subterranean passage; those
of the first floor communicate by means of
a gallery.
Re-enter Provins by passing through the
gateway and take the Rue Saint Jean.
Porte Saint Jean
La Grange-aux-Dîmes (Tithe Barn)
(Historical Monument)
At the end of the street on the left is the
Grange-aux-Dimes (Tithes)
“Grange-aux-Dîmes" (view opposite). An
old military building,
rebuilt before 1176,
it became in turn
a market and then
an inn. It was
afterward a store-
house for the tithes
of the harvest, and
it is to this last use
that it owes its
present name.
To visit it, aslo
for the key from the
guardian, who lives
opposite, in the house
at the corner of the
Rue Saint Jean and
the Rue Couverte.
There is an archeolo-
gical museum on the
Museum in the Grange-aux-Dimes

154
PROVINS
ground floor (see pre-
vious page).
We descend into
the crypt, which re-
sembles the ground-
floor in disposition
(view opposite), by a
stairway whose en-
trance is hidden by
a sort of wooden trap-
door. A great many
of the houses in the
Upper Town have
somewhat similar
basements or cellars,
with subterranean
passages giving access
to the open country,
for use in times of
danger.
The Upper Hall,
which is of noespecial
Crypt of the Grange-aux-Dimes
interest, is reached
by an outer stair, visible on the right of the façade.
Place du Châtel
On leaving the Grange-aux-Dimes, take, on the right, at the end of the Rue
Saint Jean, the Rue Couverte leading to the picturesque Place du Châtel, seen
on the photograph below. The old feudal well on the left, with its wrought-
iron top, is 120 feet deep. Beside it is the Croix-aux-Changes, dating from
the xiyth century, on which the edicts and ordinances were posted.
Beyond the Place may be seen “CAESAR's Tower."
Place du Châtel

PROVINS
155
Turning to the
left on the Place
we comie, in the
northwest corner,
to the old "MAI-
SON DES PETITS
PLAIDS" where the
provost meted out
justice. It may be
seen in part in
the background of
the photograph op-
posite. The curious
low roof covers an
interesting vaulted
passage. The house
is built over fine
xinth century cel-
lars in which the
The Hôtel de la Coquille, and the Ruins of St. Thibaut
poet and songster
Pierre
Dupont
1821-1870) composed his “Chanson de la Vigne" (Song of the Vine), during
a vine-dresser's festival. In the centre of the above view is the old HOTEL DE
LA COQUILLE, which derives its name from the shell carved above its entrance.
The neighboring ruins are those of the with century CHURCH OF SAINT
THIBAUT. Motorists are advised to send their car to await them in the lower
part of the Rue Saint Thibaut, at the corner of the Rue Christophe-O poix, whither
they themselves will return after having visited Caesar's Tower and Saint Quiriace.
The beginning of the picturesque Rue Saint Thibaut is to be seen in the
photograph below. Tourists should walk to the southeast corner of the Place and
there take the Rue de l'Ormerie, then immediately on the right, the Rue Pierre
Lebrun. The house in which this writer lived is situated in a charming little
square opening off the street.
Rue Saint Thibaut

156
PROVINS
Caesar's Tower and Saint Quiriace
The Rue Pierre Lebrun makes a bend in order to rejoin the Rue Jean Des-
marets, in which turn to the right. From this spot there is a fine view of Cae-
sar's Tower and of the Church of Saint Quiriace (see the above photograph).
The ruined wall seen in the center jutting off from the tower, belongs to the
original fortifications.
Continue to descend, passing before the "PINACLE," the old palace of the
mayors of Provins. It was there that Guillaume Pentecôte was murdered
by the workmen of the town (see page 144). Further remains of the city
wall are encountered, which descend the slope of the hill to the right before
rising to the east in order to enclose the Lower Town.
The steep path skirting the wall is called the “Chemin du Bourreau" be-
cause the executioners of Provins lived here. Their house still exists and
may be seen at the foot of the slope, on the wall. Its last inhabitant was
Charlemagne Sanson,
who, together with
his brother, the ex-
ecutioner of Paris,
guillotined King
Louis XVI in 1793.
The photograph oppo-
site of the Execu-
tioner's House was
taken from the foot
of the hill.
Tourists after de-
scending as far as
the "Executioner's
House" should return
by the same steep
path, then take the
path leading to Cae-
sar's Tower.
The Executioner's House
.

PROVINS
157
Caesar's Tower Historical Monument)
This superb keep
was built in the
with century on the
site of a Roman
fort. The lower
battlemented
por-
tion was added in
the myth century by
the English to serve
for the installation
of their artillery. The
pyramidical roof was
added in the xvith
century. The en-
trance is on the left
in the old city wall,
at the top of a little
stone staircase. The
guardian shows vis-
itors the rooms, the
prisons, and the bells
which ring for the
services in Saint
Quiriace. From the
summit a splendid
view is obtained.
Caesar's Tower
Caesar'. Tower seen from Saint Quiriace

158
PROVINS
Saint Quiriace Church (Historical Monument)
A pagan temple
dedicated to the god-
dess Isis existed in
early times on the site
of this church. It
gave place in the wird
century to a wood-
en chapel, which in
its turn was suc-
ceeded by the present
building, erected in
1160 by Count Henri
le Libéral.
Saint Quiriace, a
converted Jew, who
became Bishop of
Jerusalem in the ivth
century, indicated to
Saint Helena, mother
of Emperor Constan-
tine, the spot where
the three crosses of
the Calvary had been
hidden. He suffered
martyrdom in 363
and the basilica which
crowns the
Upper
Town was built to re-
ceive the saint's skull.
Saint Quiriace seen from Caesar's Tower
The Choir of Saint Quiriace seen from the Transept

PROVINS
159
The original
tower which rose
above the centre of
the transept, was
burned in the xviith
century. It has been
replaced by a vast
zinc-covered cupola,
which, while giving
the church a quaint
appearance, harmon-
izes little with its
style of architec-
ture.
Saint Quiriace is
full of historical
memories. King
Philippe-Auguste
here stood godfather
to Count Thibaut-le-
The Ambulatory of St. Quiriace
Grand (1201); Joan
of Arc and Charles
VII heard mass in it in 1429; and Louis XI, Francis
I and Louis XIV came to take part in a “Te
Deum."
If the church had been finished it would be
extremely large. Unfortunately in the month
century the construction of the nave was inter-
rupted at the second triforium, a fact which explains
the very marked disproportion existing between the
choir and the transept on one hand and the nave
wzan. RANDOM
on the other.
The fabric of the choir is very imposing. It
contains an elegant blind-story gallery extending
into the north and south transepts (view on page
158), and is surrounded by an ambulatory (view
above), terminated at the east end by three square
chapels.
The greater part of the church furnishings
was destroyed during the Revolution, but the fine
Louis XV gate of the principal door-way still
exists (view opposite), as does the wood-panelling
at the end of the church on the left (photograph
below).
Entrance Gate, St. Quiriace
Wood Panelling, Saint Quiriace

160
PROVINS
On leaving Saint Quiriace take on
the right the Rue des Beaux-Arts
leading into the Rue du Palais.
Take a few steps to the left in order
to glance at a house in the ROMAN
STYLE, dating from the xth cen-
tury (photograph opposite). The tourist
will then retrace his steps in the direction
of the COLLÈGE installed in the ancient
palace of the Counts of Champagne;
then descend the Rue du Collège in which
on the right are the ruins of St.
PETER'S CHURCH, built in the xiuth
century and destroyed during the
Revolution.
At the head of the flight of steps
leading to the Lower Town, beside
St. Peter's, was the "Hôtel des Mon-
naies," (the Mint), which was founded
by Charlemagne. It was there that
the "sous provinois," so well-known
in the Middle Ages, were struck (see
page 144).
Descend St. Peter's steps, and the
House in the Roman Style
Rue des Petits-Lions, which leads to the
Rue des Capucins. On entering the latter one perceives the old “Hôtel de la
Croix d'Or," dating from the xeith century (photograph below); whilst a little
to the right, on the opposite side of the street, is the "Hôtel Vauluisant,'' also
of the xirth century. Its front, pierced by four fine mullioned windows with
trefoil tracery, may be seen in the photograph below and in that on page 161.
Retracing our steps we rejoin, by way of the Rue Christophe-poix which continues
the Rue des Capucins, the Rue Saint Thibaut where motors coming directly from the
Place du Châtel by the Rue Saint Thibaut may wait.
Hôtel de la Croix d'Or
Windows of Hotel Vauluisant

PROVINS
161
Hôtel Vauluisant
Before leaving, take a few steps up
the Rue Saint Thibaut to glance at
the "HÔTEL DIEU," the former pal-
ace of the Countesses of Blois and
of Champagne.
In the vestibule (view below), on the
left is a Renaissance reredos in stone.
The donor (the wife of a bailiff of
Provins), is represented in the cen-
tral panel kneeling to the Virgin.
The vaulted hall which follows is
very large. Beneath is a crypt of the
same dimensions.
This brief visit to Provins and its
curiosities being over, regain the hotel
for dinner and bed, taking the Rue du
Val, the Place de l'Hôtel de Ville and
the Rue de la Cordonnerie. Turn to
the right at Saint Ayoul into the Rue
Edmond-Nocard continued by the Rue
Victor-Arnoul, where the hotel stands.
Next morning in order
to leave Provins, gain the
Place Saint Ayoul, turn
to the right into the Rue
Abailard, which skirts the
church, and take the
Rue Courloison on the
left.
After crossing the
Courloison bridge, turn
to the left into D 4, which
climbs in zigzags the slope
of the hill to the north of
Provins. We entered the
town by this same road.
In the morning we
shall visit the field of
operations of the 5th
French Army, arriving
at Sézanne for lunch.
Reredos, Hôtel-Dieu
031
Vestilule of the Hotel-Dieu
VISIT TO THE FIELD
OF OPERATIONS OF THE 5TH AND 9TH
FRENCH ARMIES FROM PROVINS
TO CHÂLONS-SUR-MARNE

FROM PROVINS TO SÉZANNE
(About 4912 miles)
(See map inserted between pages 130-131)
Via VOULTON, AUGERS, MONTCEAUX, COURGIVEAUX, ESTERNAY,
CHAMPGUYON, CHARLEVILLE AND LA VILLENEUVE
At the top of the zigzag hill at the exit of
Provins is a fork in the road. Turn to the
right; then take on the left the road not planted
with trees (G. C.71) going to Voulton (about
51/2 miles).
On the right of the road, in the village,
is the church (historical monument) which
dates from the with and xiiith centuries.
The interior is worth a visit, as the photo-
graphs opposite indicate. If the door of
the church is locked, ask the Cure for the
key. (The "presbytère” (rectory) is the
house with a little garden before it, to the
left of the front of the church).
When the Battle of the Marne began
on the morning of September 6th the
18th Corps was at Voulton and to the
east of this village.
After Voulton, cross through Rupéreux,
after which Augers may be seen in the dis-
Voulton Church
tance, with its much
damaged CHURCH
(photograph p. 166).
The heights which
formed the principal
German position shut
in the horizon. The
task for the left of
the 18th French
Corps was to push
back the advance-
guards of the 3rd
German Corps be-
tween Voulton and
Augers.
On the evening
of the 6th the French
camped around
Augers.
On arriving in the
village pay a visit to
the church which is
Nave of Voulton Church

166
AUGERS
at the right of the road. Augers
was bombarded in turn by the
French and by the Germans, each
believing the other to be in the
village, whereas they were merely
in the neighborhood. The church
suffered particularly, as may well
be realized in passing through the
breach in the wall shown in the
photograph below. The interior
presents a scene of desolation.
Returning to the road after vis-
iting the church, turn to the right,
then immediately afterward to the
Capital in Voulton Church
left, and take the road leading to
the main road from Courtaçon to
Sézanne (D. 8 in which turn to the right.
The tourist now finds himself on the principal German position during
the 5th and 6th of September. After a preparation by the artillery, the French
troops left the shelter furnished by the undulations of the plateau and at-
tacked and carried the road on September 7th. Following up the pursuit
of the retreating Germans, they reached La Ferté-Gaucher on the same day,
and crossed the Grand Morin, thus gaining about 6 miles.
About 194 miles from the crossroads of Augers, the road leaves on its left the
village of Sancy.
Sancy was not bombarded, the fighting taking place some distance in ad-
vance of the locality; but its inhabitants were obliged to submit to the law
of the conqueror during two days.
The following is the account given by the Curé of Sancy before the In-
quiry Commission:
“On Sunday, September 6th, about 9 p. m., the Germans were carrying
off the remaining bottles of wine from my cellar and I was about to sit down
to supper, when a non-commissioned officer announced to me and to my
guests that we were to 'Hurry to the Square.' We were put into a sheepfold
to sleep. At 5 a. m. thirty of us were led as far as the barn at Perrelez (about
212 miles north of Sancy). We were given a little water and finally, to
most of us, a small quantity of soup was doled out. The barn had
been turned into a
German ambulance.
A doctor spoke a
few words to
to the
wounded, who im-
mediately loaded
four rifles and two
revolvers. A French
hussar, wounded in
the arm and a pris-
oner, said to me:
'Give me absolution,
Mr. le Curé, I am go-
ing to be shot. After-
ward it will be your
turn.' I did as he
wished, then unbut-
toning my cassock I
placed myself against
the wall between the
mayor and my par-
ishioner, Frederic Gil-
let. But two French
Augers Church
mounted soldiers

MONTCEAUX
167
arriving at this in-
stant saved our
lives, for the Ger-
mans surrendered
to them.”
Without entering
Sancy, continue to
follow D. 8, which
leads to Mont-
ceaux. Turn to the
left and go up the
village as far as the
church (about 1494
miles.)
Montceaux, on
account of its domi-
nating location, had
been organized as a
defensive position
by the Germans.
The French artil-
lery bombarded the
Montceaux Church and Farm
whole village vigor-
ously and especially the large farm, the entrance of which is visible at the end of
the street in the above photograph. The Germans had there established a heavy
battery and directed its fire from the top of the church tower. The church there-
fore received numerous projectiles, whose effects may be seen in the photograph
below, which represents the chapel in the apse. The right of the 18th French
Corps attacked the village on September 6th, on the south and on the west and
carried it after a violent combat which lasted from 4 p. m. until nightfall.
We retrace our steps and turn to the left into D. 8, in the direction of Cour-
givaux. On the right of the main road, the Germans, installed on the em-
inence where stands the hamlet of Les Châtaigniers, offered a desperate
resistance to the efforts of the 6th Division of the 3rd French Corps, com-
manded by General Pétain, after-
ward Commander-in-Chief. On
September 6th, this division suc-
ceeded in taking the hamlet, but
was not able to advance beyond it,
in spite of the fact that the 18th
Corps held Montceaux. On the fol-
lowing morning the Germans coun-
ter-attacked unsuccessfully, and in
the afternoon the French (whose
123rd Regiment had particularly
distinguished itself at Montceaux),
hurled their adversaries back on to
the farther side of the Grand Morin.
D. 8 becomes C. C. 46 on entering
the Department of the Marne.
Before arriving at Courgivaux,
pass over a level crossing, then turn
to the right by the drinking-pond,
and ascend the village, bearing to the
left toward the cemetery (about 18
miles). The latter occupies a dom-
inating position and played an im-
portant part in the actions engaged
by the 5th Division, commanded by
General Mangin, for the possession
of Courgivaux.
Interior of Montceaux Church

168
COURGIVAUX
The German ad-
vanced defences
around Escardes
(about 112 miles)
by the road on which
the tourist finds him-
self) were carried
after a stiff fight in
which the two
colonels of the 9th
Briga de were
Farm at Courgivaux
wounded. The Ger-
mans fell back on
the line formed by the cemetery of Courgivaux and the farm of Bel-Air, visible
in the photograph above, and about 300 yards to the west toward the village.
After a bombardment by the 75's, the troops of the 3rd Corps, leaving
the woods, crossed the open ground at a run, and after several fruitless at-
tempts dislodged the Germans from the cemetery, then from the farm, and
finally from the village. The French held these positions in spite of a counter-
attack at night, and on the 7th, the Germans were in retreat toward the
north.
After having visited in the
cemetery the graves of sev-
eral officers of the 39th,
74th and 129th Regiments,
who fell here, we retrace our
steps and turn to the right
into the G. C. 46 in the di-
rection of Esternay. A long
climb leads to Retourneloup,
where G. C. 46 rejoins N. 34
coming from La Ferté-Gau-
cher.
We are now entering the
theatre of operations of the 1st
Courtyard of Esternay Castle Farm
French Corps. Retourneloup
was bombarded, for a German
battery had been established there to bar the road to the Esternay hollow.
This battery was hammered by the French artillery. The Curé of Esternay,
who had been made prisoner at the very beginning of the German occupation,
was led to Retourneloup, and passed an anxious time during the battles of the
6th and 7th. Each time that the French attacked, and they attacked ten
times during the day of the 6th, the Curé was placed at the head of the German
column which advanced to resist them. He was also roughly handled and
given nothing to eat, besides being frequently threatened with being placed
against a wall and shot.
The Germans took him with
them in their retreat, and
continued to put him in an
exposed position in all rear-
guard actions. They finally
set him at liberty about 6
miles from Esternay.
A zigzag descent leads down
to the hollow at Esternay.
Continue straight on without
entering and gain the opposite
slope. After crossing the
railway line take the road on
Entrance to Esternay Castle
the left leading to the castle
(about 2212 miles).

CHÂTILLON-SUR-MORIN
169
This last is preced-
ed by a farm which
still bears trace of
the bombardment
which it suffered
(view p. 168).
The castle,
which belonged to
Marshal Fabert, is
now the property
of the Marquis de
la Roche-Lambert.
The opposite view
gives a good idea
of its picturesque-
ness. It was occu-
pied by a German
Staff and its park
defensively
organ-
ized. The castle
suffered less than
Esterday Castle
the farm.
We retrace our steps over the 300 yards, which separate the entrance to the castle
from N. 34, which we cross in order to take the opposite road leading down to
Châtillon-sur-Morin. Pass over a level crossing in order to enter the
village, which was completely destroyed by the bombardment and by the
fires lighted by the Germans before evacuating it.
Turn to the left in the little village to arrive at the little church (nearly 24
miles, view below), which by a curious chance alone remained untouched
in the midst of ruins. The above view was taken from the church tower.
Châtillon formed the advanced position of the defences of Esternay. The
Burned Houses at Châtillon
troops of the 1st Division had the honor of being chosen to attack, and fierce
was the fighting in the burning streets of the village. The 84th Infantry,
many of whose officers and men are buried in the churchyard, gave a brilliant
example of stubborn courage. On the evening of the 6th, Châtillon was
in the hands of the French
who were, however, for that
day, unable to advance fur-
ther toward Esternay, being
held up by the defence-works
on N. 34 (see panorama p.170).
Return to the main road
from Esternay to Sézanne (N.
34), stopping at the last
houses of Châtillon, the spot
Châtillon Church

170
ESTERNA Y
Esternay Castle
Panorama of the Esternay Positions
from whence the above photograph was taken. The position which the French
troops in possession of Châtillon had to carry was formed by the plateau
seen on the horizon, along which passes D. 8 at the foot of Esternay Castle.
This frontal attack presented many difficulties, for even if the French
arrived as far as the railway line which runs along the bottom of the valley
and were able to take cover under the embankment, they would be mowed
down when they attempted to scale the bare slopes. The woods which ap-
pear on the right in the above view afforded shelter to the troops up to the
main road, but when they attempted to advance into the open they were
met by a murderous fire. Being unable to force the frontal defences, the
commandant of the 1st Corps ordered the 2nd Division to make a consid-
erable turn to the east under cover of the woods in order to take the
positions on Esternay plateau in the flank. On the evening of the 6th, a
first attack failed, but next morning the 2nd Division carried the position
which covered the German flank, and combining its efforts with those of the
1st Division on the front, entered Esternay about 10 o'clock in the morning.
Once more on the N. 34, turn to the right. The slope served as a protec-
tion for the Germans, who dug many individual shelters there. One of
Châtillon Church
Railway Line
Panorama of the Châtillon Positions

ESTERNA Y
171
these may be seen in
the foreground of the
preceding photograph.
We begin to realize the
difficulties which the
French had to sur-
mount, when we re-
member that after
the battle, on the
front of a single
battalion, 11 officers
and 4 non-commis-
sioned officers lay
while
dead, killed
Common Grave at Esternay
leading their men.
Leaving behind on the left the park which adjoins the road we perceive on
the right the great common grave of Esternay (view above), where lie buried
the heroes of the 73rd who fell during the attack. The turning movement
mentioned on page 170 led across the road about 3 miles from this spot,
at the other extremity of the wood. The village of La Noue, to the north of
the road was carried and the 2nd Division then turned back toward Esternay.
(Sézanne is only about 6 miles from this point by N. 34, but the tour indi-
cated hereafter, which leads across part of the line where the direct attack on
this town was broken, makes a circuit of about 21 miles. The remainder of the line
will be explored tomorrow.)
We retrace our steps. A little wood fringes the road on the right. The
German machine guns were installed there and cut down the French who
attempted to leave their shelter on the other side of the road. About 100
yards further on, the wood gives place to a field, on the edge of which, at
about 20 yards from the road, in the midst of the trees, is the grave of an un-
known French soldier, a pathetic sight. A little farther on in the field are
to be seen the isolated graves of two German officers, one of them of the
family of the Chief of the General Staff, von Moltke (view below). Between
these graves and the border of the castle park many Germans lie buried.
The fighting was very violent here in the trenches which the enemy had dug
at right angles to the road. They were outflanked on the north by the turn-
ing movement we have spoken of, and carried at the point of the bayonet,
as well as the park, the castle and the farm. From this moment, Esternay,
situated in the hollow, could offer no serious resistance and the French entered
it without difficulty.
Recross the railway line and take the first road on the right, leading into Ester-
nay and to the Place de l'Église (about 30 miles). The church was transformed
into an ambulance station by the Germans.
The following evidence given by the deputy-mayor and other witnesses
before the Official Inquiry Commission recalls painful incidents of the occu-
pation by the enemy:
“On the 6th of September,
the Germans pillaged nine-
tenths of the houses in the
town. This pillage was or-
ganized, objects of all kinds,
linen and other belongings,
being placed on carts.
Another witness declar-
ed: "About 3 o'clock in
the afternoon, thirty-five or
forty Germans came out of
the church shouting, and
leading with them Mr. Lau-
renceau, aged 52 years. The
Graves of German Officers
latter on arriving on the street

172
CHAMPGUYON
made a movement as
if to escape and was
immediately felled to
the ground.
Then
although he lay quite
still, he received
three bullets.”
A third witness de-
clared: "On the night
of the 6th of Septem-
ber I was with my
Farm set on fire at Champguyon
two daughters and
Mme. Lhomme in
hiding under the stairs of the cellar of Mme. Macé, a widow. Groups of German
soldiers kept passing round the house and some had even come into the cellar
without discovering us. Between 11 p. m. and midnight one of these bands,
having found women's clothes in a closet, came toward our hiding-place.
As they had seen us, Mme. Macé exclaimed: 'Do you wish to kill old women?'
To which they replied: 'No, no harm to grandmother' and pushed her on one
side. They next tried to push me aside, crying 'Fraulein all naked,' but could
not move me. One of them then shouldered his rifle. I raised my arm to strike
up the muzzle, but he was too quick for me, and, taking advantage of the space
thus disclosed between the young girls and myself lowered his arm and fired.
Mme. Lhomme was wounded in the left arm by a ball which then shattered
the left arm of my daughter Marcelle, aged 27 years. She died between 4 and
5 o'clock on the afternoon of the 7th of September."
In the Place de l'Église, turn to the right, then immediately afterward to the
left toward Champguyon. The road (G. C. 48) shortly after traverses a level
crossing and passes before the cemetery, which contains the remains of many
French soldiers. This road was the one followed by the Germans when they
fell back on Montmirail before the French.
Traverse the long street of Champguyon (about 33 miles), which suffered
much from the bombardment, but more from the fire set alight by the enemy.
The view above was taken in the courtyard of a farm which stands on the
left of the road, a little before the church. The view below shows a ruined
house, one of the group about half a mile further on.
Several of the inhabitants were murdered. The widow of one, Mme. Louvet,
thus related the death of her husband:
“About 5 p. m. on September 6th, my husband, whom the Germans were
dragging along with blows from sticks, called to me, exclaiming: 'My wife, my
poor wife.' I ran through our garden gate and kissed him, but was roughly
repulsed by his captors and fell. My poor husband was in a piteous state;
blood streamed from his ears. He begged for mercy and asked: "What
harm have I done you?' He also cried out: "Colonel, colonel.' I could not
help him, for the Germans who were torturing him were from ten to fifteen
in number, and kept their rifles pointed at my throat. They bore off their
victim to the end of the village, doubtless to put an end to him. The next
evening, about 5 p. m., I found the unfortunate Louvet. His head was
horribly smashed; one
eye was out of its
socket, one of his
wrists was
broken.
He was almost un-
recognizable.
Continue to follow
G. C. 48, then take on
the right at the cross-
roads G. C. 46, leading
to Morsains (about
35 miles). Arrived
in the latter, turn to
Burned Houses in Champguyon

CHARLEVILLE
173
the right after passing
the church. This road
is the G. C. 47. Cross
through the village and
before arriving at Per-
thuis turn to the left
at the crossroads. At
Perthuis (about 36
miles), turn to the
right and traverse the
locality, turning again
to the right on leaving
it. We thus leave
Grave in a Sand Pit
the theatre of opera-
tions of the 1st French Corps and enter that of the 10th Corps. On the right
of the horizon may be seen the Forest du Gault, on the borders of which the
10th Corps engaged in furious combats with the 10th German Reserve Corps.
On reaching La Rue-le-Comte (about 37 miles) traverse it in all its length,
as also a level crossing,
in order to arrive at
Le Gault-la-Forêt
(38 miles). Pass
through it. Several
houses were burned
by the Germans, who
also shot the old
rural policeman.
At the crossroads
at the end of the village
turn to the right, then
immediately afterward
Battlefield of Charleville
to the
left, going
around the church. After coming to the hamlet of Le Recoude (about 39 miles),
the western portion of which was damaged by bombardment, turn to the left on
entering and cross the village from one end to the other.
During the morning, on September 6th, the left of the 10th French Corps,
after having traversed the Forest du Gault, reached the road which the tourist
has been following between La Rue-le-Comte and Le Recoude. In the after-
noon it was obliged to retire into the forest. But on the following day it
attacked again, took numerous prisoners in the forest and carried the line
which it had occupied the day before. It was from this line that it set off
on the 8th to continue its advance to the northeast. G. C. 47 continues
in the direction of
Charleville. Before
entering the village,
stop the car at the mile-
stone "6 kom. 2," 20
yards before arriving
at the first isolated
house.
Take on foot the path
on the left, which leads
to the grave seen in
the photograph above,
and which is about
150 yards distant.
This grave, made in a
sand pit, contains the
bodies of 180 officers
and men who fell
in engagements at
Charleville Church

174
LA VILLENEUVE
Charleville, Fifty yards further on
may be seen from the path and to
the left, the view shown in the photo-
graph on the previous page.
The French occupied a trench
dug under the line of trees seen
on the left; the Germans were
installed on the hills which shut
in the horizon. It was only on
September 8th, after three days'
fighting, that the 20th Division
was able to dislodge the enemy
from these slopes.
Return to the car and enter
Charleville (about 40 miles).
The church seen in the photographs
on p. 173 and opposite was much
damaged by the German bom-
bardment. Walk around it, then
enter.
Although the neighboring vil-
lages of La Villeneuve and Le
Recoude changed hands several
times, Charleville, which had
been taken on the 6th by the
Charleville Church
20th Division, remained in the
possession of the French. The
fighting was extremely fierce all around the village and particularly on the
spot indicated above, where the 2nd Infantry Regiment distinguished
itself.
Continue to follow G. C. 47 leaving on the right the road which leads through
the village. At the next crossroads bear to the right and continue until La Ville-
neuve (about 4112 miles.)
Numerous houses were destroyed by the French and German bombard-
ments. The church, as may be seen in the photograph below, is in ruins.
La Villeneuve was where the 5th and 9th French Armies joined. It was
occupied by the 42nd Division on the evening of the 5th of September. On
the 6th it passed from hand to hand, lost at 8 a. m., retaken at 9 a. m., lost
again toward midday, and finally reconquered at nightfall by the French.
On the 7th the struggle was equally obstinate and violent. La Villeneuve
was again taken and retaken. It was only on the 8th that the 42nd Division
succeeded in breaking the German resistance and advanced northward.
The principal obsta-
cle had been a howit-
zer battery installed
beyond the Morin,
near Le Thoult, a
little over 3 miles
from La Villeneuve.
It rained shells on
this locality and also
prevented the 10th
Corps from advanc-
ing from Charleville.
This battery was
marked
down,
thanks to the
knowledge of the
country
possessed
by the Cure of
La Villeneuve Church
La Villeneuve

SÉZANNE
175
the Abbé Laplaige.
From an attic win-
dow he discovered
by means of field-
glasses the spot from
which the shots were
fired and pointed it
out to the officer
commanding the
French batteries.
The Germans were
soon reduced to si-
lence and progress
became possible for
the 42nd Division
at La Villeneuve and
the 10th Corps at
Windmill Water Pump at La Villeneuve
Charleville.
Near the middle of the village, take on the left, skirting the drinking-
pond, the road leading to Corfélix and Le Thoult. The windmill pump, seen
in the photograph above, will soon be perceived, near a group of ruined
houses. It was from the upper platform of the pump that the officer com-
manding the French artillery, guided by the Abbé Laplaige, directed the
fire which destroyed the German battery at Le Thoult. The rising ground
of the left bank of the Morin, which attains a height of 670 feet directly
north of La Villeneuve, hid the whereabouts of the German guns on the right
bank, on Hill 189. The elevated structure of the pump made an ideal observa-
tory and compensated for the height of the ground on the left bank of
the river.
Return by the same path to the drinking-pond and take on the left G. C. 47
leading to Chapton. On the right of the road are the woods of Bois-de-la-Ville,
on the left those of La Braule. The troops of the 42nd Division fought
desperate engagements in these woods during the alternating retreat and
advance from the 6th to the 8th of September. Pass through Chapton (about
45 miles) which was the utmost limit of the direct German advance on Sézanne.
Shortly afterward, on arriving at the main road (N. 51) turn to the right and
descend into Sézanne, which suddenly comes into view at the foot of the
hill and makes a pretty picture. It was to attain this edge of the plateau,
which commands a
wide horizon, that
the Germans made
such desperate ef-
forts on either side
of N. 51, which were
rendered vain by the
admirable resistance
of the 42nd Division.
Enter Sézanne
(about 4912 miles)
by the Rue d'Eperney
then turn to the right
into the Rue de la
Halle leading to the
Place de la République
in which is the church
(view opposite). From
thence we seek out
the hotel where we
intend to dine and
sleep (see plan page
176).
Sézanne Church
176
S ÉZANNE
SÉZANNE
Visit to the Town
The most interesting sight is the church (an historical monument), a view
of which is given on p. 175. It dates from the xyth and xvith centuries. To
visit the interior enter by the little door opening on to the Place de l'Hôtel-de-
Ville and opposite an old well enclosed within a wrought-iron railing.
The stone reredos against the wall on the left on entering is worthy of
note. An interesting walk is to follow the line of the ancient fortifications
now changed into a public promenade. The most interesting part is the
“Mail des Cordeliers" to the north.
REIMS 71
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45,5,

BROYES
177
THE MARSHES OF SAINT GOND
Tour in the Neighborhood of Sézanne
(About 4013 miles)
Via BROYES, ALLEMANT, BROUSSY, BANNES, COIZARD, CONGY,
CHAMPAUBERT, BAYE, SAINT Prix, OYES, REUVES, MONDEMENT.
This part of the
the tour
should be done in the morn-
ing, for the region of the
marshes is devoid of hotels,
even of inns, and tourists
must
therefore return to
Sézanne for lunch. After
lunch, we set out for Fère-
Champenoise, ascend the val-
ley of the Somme, to
ar-
rive at Châlons-sur-Marne,
for dinner and bed.
Leaving the hotel, recross
the Place de la République
and take on the left the Rue
de la Halle, continued by
IN the Rue de Broyes.
The
latter turns suddenly to
the left (the street which
continues in the former direc-
tion is the Rue de Châlons).
The road (G. C. 39) skirts
the cemetery
and mounts
toward Broyes, which we pass
through, leaving the church
on the left (about 3 miles).
On a level with the church,
take the street on the right,
and 300 yards, further on
we encounter the old “Castle
Castle des Pucelles
des Pucelles," seen in the
photograph above.
General Humbert, commanding the Moroccan Division, established his
headquarters in this castle on September 7th, when Mondement castle be-
came uninhabitable. And it was from here, when Mondement had been
taken by the Germans, that he directed the counter-attacks which drove
them from it. The "Castle des Pucelles" is perched on the edge of the pla-
teau dominating almost vertically the immense plain of the Aube. Monde-
ment is about 2 miles distant. One can easily realize how tragic was the
situation during the days of the 8th and 9th of September, 1914, of the troops
standing at bay at Broyes, and understand the savage fury with which they
attacked Mondement.
Quitting the "Castle des Pucelles," continue straight along G. C. 39, leaving
on the left the road leading to Mondement (we shall follow it in the opposite
direction on our return).
Traverse Allemant woods and the village of that name, which we pass through,
leaving the church (about 572 miles) on the right. From its steeple in 1814,
Napoleon watched the battle which was raging in the plain below. After
the first group of houses comes a fork in the road; the one on the right descends
into the plain, that on the left goes toward the marshes of Saint Gond.
Before taking the latter, turn to the right on the crest a few steps in order to
contemplate in its entirety the beautiful view reproduced in the panoramas on
pages 178-179, 180-181.

178
ALLEMANT
Allemant
The above panorama forms a continuation of the panoramic
G. PANORAMA OF
view H and should be seen as joining same at right of page 179
The plain which stretches at our feet as far as the eye can reach, right up to
the Aube, and of which the panorama on pages 178 to 181 give a good idea, was
the stake in the battle which for five days engaged the army of Foch and those
of von Bülow and von Hausen. The heights, the crest of which we have been
following since leaving Sezanne, assured its control. From there the Germans
with their powerful artillery would have been able to destroy the French Corps
N. 34, between Fère and Sézanne
H. PANORAMA OF

ALLEMANT
179
Broyes
Church Tower
Allemant
Church Tower
ALLEMANT
withdrawn to the plain. They would also have been able to manoeuvre freely in
order to fall on the rear of the army of Esperey on the west, and that of Langle
de Cary on the east. The whole plan of the battle of the Marne would have
collapsed. The nature of the ground permits us to understand the particular
violence of the struggle at this point: the Germans ready to sacrifice everything in
order to attain the heights, the French disputing fiercely every inch of the ground.
N. 34, between Fère and Sézanne
Allemant
Péas
See note under view at top of page 178
THE PLAIN OF THE AUBE

180
ALLEMANT
Mont Chalmont
N. 34 between Fère and Sézanne Linthes
Pleurs
Linthelles
I. PANORAMA OF THE
While attacking the height on its front, from the south bank of the Marshes
(see the panorama on pages 200-201), the Germans also tried to outflank it on
the east.
We have seen in the general account of the battle how prodigious were their
efforts to cross the Somme, which formed a covering line, and then to debouch
from Fère-Champenoise. This locality is hidden behind Mont Chalmont,
on the left of the panorama above. This manoeuvre very nearly succeeded.
During the day of September 9th, the soldiers occupying the promontory
where the tourist stands, saw to the north in the direction of the Marshes,
the advancing Germans arrive within firing distance of the farthest trench.
If they turned their eyes eastward, they saw the 17th Division falling back
on Mont Chalmont (panorama above) and the artillery take up its position
on the western slope. Further south, debouching from the screen formed by
this ridge, the firing line came into view and spread toward Linthes and Pleurs.
The terrible anxiety of these hours of waiting only ceased when the 42nd
Division came into action.
The fine strategic movement of the 42nd (see p. 23) is easy to follow. The
division gained the plain from the plateau north of Sézanne, which we traversed
yesterday. The infantry descended the slopes of Broyes and Allemant.
The military wagons followed the N. 34 and the railway which skirts this
road. The batteries stopped on the way at Broyes, in order to take part in
the bombardment of Mondement Castle. The division formed up between
Linthes, Linthelles and Pleurs, and it was from this point that it began its
attack. The tourist may picture to himself these red and blue columns
marching eastward under a violent artillery fire and causing the German troops,
bewildered by the arrival of these unexpected French reinforcements, to dis-
appear again behind the ridge. The villages of Péas (panorama H) and
Saint Loup (panorama I) served as shelters for the reserves of the 9th
Corps. Much-tried companies withdrew there to re-form. It was from Saint
Loup that the 77th Infantry Regiment started forth to take Mondement.
Leaving their dinner, which was warming, these gallant fellows stormed the

ALLEMANT
181
N. 34 between Fère and Sézanne
Saint Loup
PLAIN OF FÈRE-CHAMPENOISE
The above panorama is part of the scene illustrated at the bottom
of page 178 and should be viewed as fitting at the left of same.
slopes of Allemant and of Broyes in order to take in this action the heroic part
explained on p. 195.
Rejoin G. C. 39. The long dike of the marshes of Saint Gond becomes visi-
ible almost immediately. From this distance nothing indicates the marshes
the reeds of which are lost to view among the crops; one can only distinguish
the line of the Petit Morin, marked by poplar trees, which traverses the de-
pression from one end to the other.
After passing a small group of houses, take at the crossroads, the road
on the left descending toward the marshes. We can perceive Mont Août,
in front at first, then to the right. This solitary little hill played an im-
portant part in the battle. There, until September 9th, the 17th Division,
resisted all attacks from the north and from the east.
Follow G. C. 39, and arriving at Broussy-le-Grand (nearly 10 miles), pass
through it. Held first by the Moroccan Division, Broussy was carried by the
Germans after a fierce struggle. The French troops were thrown back on
the slopes of Allemant, which we have just descended. There are still many
ruined houses in Broussy.
The road now turns toward Bannes (1134 miles). In all the plain which
stretches south and east of Bannes, the 17th and 52nd Divisions fought des-
perate engagements to prevent the Germans from breaking through the
marshes. On the 8th, the French front which followed the boundary of the
marshes from east to west, was pushed back with violence. The left re-
mained in the neighborhood of Bannes, but the centre drew back to Mont
Août, and the right to the south of this hill. On the 9th Mont Août fell in
its turn. Between Bannes and Mont Août, in a trench, numerous letters
and telegrams and a box bearing the address of Prince Eitel, son of Wilhelm
II, were found.
Many new roofs are to be seen in Bannes, a proof of the violence of the
bombardment.
At the crossroads at the entrance to the village, turn to the left toward the Marshes
and Coizard, to which G. C. 43 leads.

182
BANNES
View of the Marshes
The photograph above gives an aspect of this marshy region. The line
of poplars crossing it follows the course of the Morin. The heights on the
horizon are those of Toulon-la-Montagne and Vert-la-Gravelle. They were
occupied on September 6th by the outposts of the 17th Division, who, how-
ever, could not hold them. The Germans then installed batteries there
which swept all the southeast portion of the marshes. In spite of this fact,
on the same day, a battalion of the 77th Line Regiment tried to retake the
heights.
We are now following the course of the attacking troops who left Bannes
under a murderous fire from the heavy artillery and machine guns. When
the road became too dangerous they entered the marshes and advanced under
great difficulty up to their waists in water. Some disappeared suddenly, swal-
lowed up by the bogs. The troops succeeded in reaching Coizard and,
after fighting in the streets and houses, drove off the Germans and began
to assail the slopes which dominate the village. But the enemy had here
a crushing superiority and after a seven-hours' fight the French were obliged
to retire across the marshes, pursued by the dropping fire of the batteries
on the northern bank which raked the narrow causeways. The Germans
wished to push home their advantage and take foot on the southern bank
and accordingly began to cross the marshes by the Coizard-Bannes road.
Their losses were heavy, for the machine-guns and 75's directed a cross-fire
on them. They came on nevertheless and reached Bannes, but when they
endeavored to advance on Mont Août, they were met by so fierce a fire that
they were obliged to
draw back into the
village. Mont Août
did not fall until
September 9th, hav-
ing been outflanked
on the south.
Cross the Morin
bridge which was de-
stroyed at the be-
ginning of the battle
(photograph opposite)
then leaving the soft
ground of the
marshes, cross one
Destroyed Bridge over the Morin
of the drained parts,

COIZARD
183
the number of which
increases every year,
thus reducing con-
siderably the original
surface which com-
prised all the hollow.
On reaching
Coizard, turn first
to the left, then to
the right in order
to arrive at the church
(nearly 15 miles).
The villages on
the north of the
marshes suffered less
than those on the
south, for the French
bombardment was
less intense than the
Coizard Church
German. A few houses
were however destroyed in Coizard (view above).
Turn to the left at the church (the road is visible in the above photo-
graph) and continue to follow G. C. 43 for about half a mile as far as Joches.
At the corner of the farm (of which the view below shows the interior,
which was burned by the Germans), turn to the right toward Congy, leaving the
marshes.
(If pressed for time, instead of turning to the right, continue on the road along
the marshes by Courjeonnet and Villevenard, thus gaining Saint Prix. The
distance by the direct road is about 334 miles; in going round by Congy, it is
almost 10 miles.
In Congy (about 1812 miles) follow the main street, turning to the right before
the town hall, then to the left; cross the railway.
On the 5th and 6th of September, the 9th Corps, which still had outposts
at Toulon and at Vert, endeavored to extend its line toward Congy. Blondlat's
Brigade of the Moroccan Division crossed to the north bank and attempted
to gain Congy by Joches and Courjeonnet. The difficulties were great,
for the German artillery swept the slopes. The attack failed in the end
and the brigade was obliged to recross the marshes. During the battle,
the German heavy guns on the heights commanding Congy pounded the
French positions on the opposite side of the marshes.
About 1/4 miles after Congy we meet the “Route Nationale” 33 and turn into it
to the left toward Champaubert, which is about 2 miles further on.
On the left is the
column commem-
orating Napoleon's
victory in 1814.
Champa u bert
Farm, where
where he
slept is a gray house
with red brick fac-
ings standing oppo-
site the column on
N. 33.
On arriving at the
column, turn to the
left into N. 51, in the
direction of Baye.
In Baye, (about
22 miles) on the left
is to be seen the
Burned Farm at Joches

184
BAYE
interesting with
century church,
which has recently
been restored (pho-
tograph opposite).
Nine hundred yards
further on is the
castle, of which a
view is given be-
low. It was the
birthplace of
Marion Delorme,
who there passed
fo
a tranquil child-
hood before becom-
ing acquainted with
the feverish life of
the courtesan.
Baye Church
The castle is the
property of the Baron de Baye and contained many rich archaeological and
artistic treasures. It was inhabited by a member of the German imperial family
from the 5th to the 9th of September, and was pillaged methodically.
The following is the report of the Inquiry Commission:
“Having repaired to Baye Castle we verified the traces of the pillage which
this edifice has suffered. On the first floor a door leading to a room which
adjoins the gallery, where the proprietor had amassed valuable works of art,
had been broken in; four glass cases had been broken, another opened. Ac-
cording to the declarations of the caretaker, who, in her master's absence,
was not able
to inform us of the full extent of the damage, the principal objects
stolen were Russian gems and gold medals. We noticed that tablets covered
with black velvet, belonging doubtless to the glass cases, had been dismantled
of part of the jewels which they formerly bore.
“The Baron de Baye's room was in a state of great disorder. Numerous
objects were strewn about the floor, and in drawers which had been left
open. A flat-topped secrétaire had been broken into. A Louis XVI com-
mode and round-topped desk of the same period had been rifled. This room
was doubtless occupied by a person of high rank, for on the door still re-
mained chalked the following inscription: I. K. Hoheit.' Nobody could
tell us exactly who was this 'highness,' but a general who lodged in the house
of Mr. Houllier, one of the town councillors, told his host that the castle
had sheltered the
Duke of Brunswick
(William II's son-
in-law) and
and the
staff of the 10th
Corps."
N. 51 now de-
scends into the val-
ley of the Petit
Morin. From the
5th to the 9th
of September the
German Reserves
followed closely on
each other along
this road, hastening
to the attack on the
plateau of Sézanne.
After having
passed the little
Baye Castle

SAINT PRIX
185
The Morin leaving the Marshes
station of Talus-Saint-Prix, we arrive at the bridge over the Morin. This bridge,
forming the narrow bottle-neck in which the German attack was to be precipi-
tated, constitutes one of the most interesting points of the battlefields. It is
here that the marshes come to an end and the Morin continues its course
along a gradually-narrowing valley. The view above, taken from the bridge east-
ward, shows the river leaving the marshes. The tree stump in the foreground,
which has now disappeared, recalls the successive bombardments, French
and German, which the bridge experienced. The other view is taken westward.
From the heights which form the background of the two photographs the German
cannon rained shells on the French positions on the southern edge of the marshes.
Road from Corfélix Talus-Saint Prix
The Morin near the Marshes

186
SAINT PRIX
Crête du Poirier
The Chapel of Saint Prix
The Heights of Saint Prix (to the west ofthe road)
The heights of Saint Prix form the northern edge of the plateau of Sézanne
on which depended the liason between the 5th and 9th French Armies. The
Germans had bitten into the plateau on the west and on the northwest,
at Esternay, Charleville and La Villeneuve, which we have visited; they
tried to complete their success by attacking also on the point before us.
On the left of the road (view above) may be seen the little chapel of Saint
Prix, below Botrait woods. On the bare part of the summit are the remains
of the trenches in which the Germans had placed machine-guns. Further
to the left is the “Crête du Poirier” which was so bitterly disputed. To the
right of the road, on the view below, appear the woods of the Grandes Garennes
which clothe the heights toward Corfélix.
Woods of
Valley of the Morin Petit
Grandes Garennes
towards Corfélix
Morin
The Heights of Saint Prix (to the east of the road)

SOIZY - AUX-BOIS
187
and
On N. 51, in the
woods of Botrait
and the Grandes
Garrennes attacks
counter-at-
tacks followed in
rapid succession
during four days.
The thickets were
the scene of fierce
hand-to-hand
struggles. In the
rear clearings the
combatants shel-
tered themselves
in hastily-d ug
trenches. This
stubborn resistance
exasperated the
Chapel at Saint Prix
Germans, and after
the battle witnesses found a company of Algerian sharpshooters whose brains
had been beaten out by blows from the butt-ends of rifles. This fact is
vouched for by the Inquiry Commission. Other corpses belonging to the
same regiment had been placed in a ring around a fire which had burnt all
the heads.
The battle continued until the French, after having silenced the German
guns at Le Thoult and Corfélix (see page 175) finally reached Corfélix and
the Morin. Advancing along the valley, seen in the views at the foot of p. 185
and at the top of p. 186, they debouched on the flank of the enemy's troops
deeply engaged in the interior of the plateau of Sézanne.
The manoeuvre of September 9th was decisive. Attacked on flank and
front, and driven from the woods, the Germans recrossed the Morin; while
their rear-guards fought desperate covering engagements, of which the chapel
and its little cemetery (seen in the view above), the machine-gun trench (seen
in the photograph at the top of p. 185) and the neighborhood of the station
of Talus-Saint Prix, were in particular witnesses. The retreat however con-
tinued briskly, and on September 10th, the 10th Corps, which had per-
formed the outflanking movement, was able, setting forth from the Champau-
bert-Saint Prix front, to sweep the whole of the north of the marshes.
Follow the zigzags which N. 51 malces to climb the slope and continue toward
Soizy-aux-Bois (about 28 miles). On this road, in the woods which border
it, the 42nd Division met with a repulse at the hands of the German
troops who, on the 7th, took Soizy and even pushed on to Chapton (we
passed through this village before arriving at Sézanne). On the 8th, the
162nd Line Regiment counter-attacked and carried Soizy at the point of the
bayonet; and on the
9th, as we have seen
above, the Germans
were driven back
across the Morin.
Soizy still shows
the ruins of houses
destroyed by bom-
bardment or fire.
After having glanced
at them return to the
entrance to the vil-
lage and take on the
left looking toward
Soizy) G.C. 44 in the
Graves at Soizy
direction of Oyes.

188
OYES
Botrait Woods
Crête North Bank
du Poirier of Marshes
J. Panorama of the "Crête du Poirier" and Botrait Woods
Almost immediately after, on the left, below the level of the road, may
be seen two large graves, where the French soldiers who fell during the com-
bats at Soizy were buried (view p. 187). The Germans were buried to the
right of these graves.
Cross through the woods of Saint Gond. Sign-posts indicate that mili-
tary graves exist in the thickets and recall the hand-to-hand struggles which
took place here during the fluctuations of the battle round Soizy.
Redescend toward the marshes between the "Crête du Poirier" on the left
and the heights on Montgivroux on the right. Before arriving at Oyes, a
chalky road with a quarry on its right appears on the left, leading to the
top of the hill.
Courjeonnet
Petit Morin
Coizard Toulon-la-Montagne
K. Panorama of the Marshes and their North Bank

OYES
189
Broussy- Mont-
le-Grand Aout Reuves
Oyes
L. Panorama of the Marshes and their South Bank
Follow this road on the left, on which are the remains of trenches. At 150
yards from where this road begins the interesting view shown on pages 188-189
may be had.
The summit on which we stand is connected by a little valley with the
summit of the Poirier, seen on Panorama J. These two heights constituted
on the north the advanced line of defence of the heights of Mondement.
Panorama M shows the position of Mondement, which will be visited in
due course.
The castle and the church may be perceived. The road in
the foreground in the centre of this panorama is the one which we took to
climb the hill.
Mondement Mondement
Castle Church
Allemant Woods
M. Panorama of Mondement

190
SAINT GOND
The line of the Poirier was the ob-
ject of furious combats. The "tirail-
leurs” of the Moroccan Division had
dug trenches there in order to protect
themselves against the withering fire
of heavy and light artillery which the
Germans directed from the north of
the marshes. When the Germans had
succeeded in crossing the Morin on the
bridge at Saint Prix, they penetrated
into Botrait woods (Panorama J) and
attacked the Poirier. They drove
the sharpshooters from the summit
and then from the southern slopes.
where the latter had made a stand.
On September 8th a bayonet charge
brought the Poirier again into the pos-
session of the sharpshooters, but the
German artillery rendered the posi-
tion untenable and they were obliged
to evacuate it and fall back on the
heights of Mondement-Montgivroux.
At the same time Blondlat's Brigade,
which held Oyes and Reuves (Pano-
Entrance to the Priory of Saint Gond rama L), was thrown back on the
Allemant woods by superior forces
which had managed to cross the marshes.
The position of Mondement had thus lost all advanced protection and
fell on the following day. On the same evening it was retaken (see pages 194-
195). From this moment the battle was lost for the Germans. The 10th
Corps, by means of its outflanking movement described on p. 187, obliged
them to recross the Morin at Saint Prix (below Botrait woods, Panorama J).
The flank of the marshes was thus turned. During the night of the 9th-10th
the German troops hurriedly regained the northern edge by the causeways
running from Oyes, Reuves and Broussy (Panorama L).
Rejoin G. C. 44 and turn to the left toward Oyes (31 miles). The village
still bears traces of the bombardment during its heroic defence by Blondlat's
Brigade. Turn to the right, leaving the church on the left, and, on leaving the
village, turn to the left to regain the marshes, in the middle of which stands
the old Priory of Saint Gond. The entrance, seen in the photograph above,
is on the right of the road (about 32 miles).
Saint Gond, who gave his name to the marshes, was a vith century hermit.
Charmed by the solitude of the spot he there founded a little monastery.
It was destroyed during the barbaric invasions, then rebuilt, became an
abbey and then a priory, after which its decline was rapid. All that remains
today consists of the entrance
(view above) and in the in-
terior a door (seen on the
opposite view
view behind the
Abbé Millard). The Abbé
Millard, who occupies the
priory, is an elderly eccle-
siastic who divides his time
between studies and rural
tasks. In the photographs
on this page he is seen in the
simple apparel which he
prefers. He is a distinguished
historian and member of sev-
eral learned societies.
Interior of the Priory of Saint Gond

REUV
191
G
The Abbé Millard, who was
recovering from a long illness,
reluctantly left his hermitage
a little before the arrival of the
Germans. The sharpshooters
had established on the road
opposite his house a barricade
flanked by machine-guns behind
which they tried to stem the
German advance; but the lat-
ter surmounted this obstacle
and advanced on Oyes.
After the priory, we cross
the road which runs from Ville-
venard on the right of the marshes
to Oyes and Reuves on the left.
This is the road taken by the
Germans who attacked Oyes
and Reuves during three days.
They suffered heavy losses from
the fire of the French artillery
which swept Villevenard and
the causeways, but came reso-
lutely on and carried the two
villages on September 8th, in
spite of the heroic defence
of Blondlat's Brigade.
At the crossroads turn to the
Reuves Church after the Bombardment
right toward Reuves (almost 33
miles) and cross through it lengthwise. It suffered terribly. The views on this
page show the state of the church after the bombardment.
Turn to the right at the end of the village, leaving on the left the road which
continues to follow the edge of the marshes in the direction of Broussy. This
village fell at the same time as Oyes and Reuves, having been attacked by
the German troops coming down from Joches and Coizard. Immediately on
leaving the village take on the left G. C. 45 toward Mondement.
We are following the last stage of the German advance. On the morning
of September 9th, the troops which had taken Oyes and Reuves, after having
received rein-
forcements dur-
ing the night,
assailed the
heights of Mon-
dement
wrenched from
the grasp of the
few remaining
Zouaves and
sharp shooters,
the castle, the
church and the
village.
The road
passes before
the castle (about
3434 miles) the
fame of which,
since the War
has become
Reuves Church after the Bombardment
world-wide.
and

192
MONDEMENT
The Castle's North Front
On September 6th, 1914, the owners, Mme. Jacob and one of her sons,
were still at Mondement. The bombardment by the German big guns on the
north of the marshes
began on the morning
of the 7th. The inhabi-
tants of the castle, to-
gether with the Cure of
Reuves, who had come
to join them, passed
many anxious hours.
The cellar in which they
had taken shelter almost
fell in on them. It was
useless to think of seek-
ing refuge in the neigh-
borhood of the castle,
for the shells fell like
hail. Their motor-car
had been destroyed (as
be seen in the
photograph at the foot
of p. 196) and the only
horse in the stable had
been killed.
Their only alterna-
tive was to set out
on foot at night along
the road to Broyes, in
spite of the feeble state
of Mr. Jacob, who was
suffering from heart-
disease.
They were picked up
fortunately by a mo-
A Corner of the Castle Park
tor-car sent by General
may be

MONDEMENT
193
Humbert, but Mr.
Jacob died a few
days afterward, as
a result of the
shock and the
fatigues which
he had experi-
enced.
On the 7th,
General Hum-
bert established
his headquar-
ters in the cas-
tle, which made
a splendid ob-
servatory. He
followed the
course of the
battle through
his field-glasses
from the foot of
the towers.
When the shells
fell too thickly on
the castle he
gained the little
church near at
hand (from which
the panorama on
The Marshes seen from a Window in the Northeast Tower
pages 200-201 is
taken), and came back to the
castle when the Germans be-
gan to direct their fire on the
church tower. During these
comings and goings a shell fell
among his escort and killed
several horsemen. As the
bombardment continued to
increase in violence, the head-
quarters were transported to
the "Castle des Pucelles'' at
Broyes, before which we have
already passed (page 177).
The road circles the castle.
The photograph opposite gives
a side view of the facade.
The tower at the end has been
cleared of the ivy which cov-
ers it in the photograph on
page 192, and been complete-
ly restored. The ruined roof
has been removed in order to
give place to a new one. In
the foreground is a tree which
has been felled by a shell.
Shells from the 105's and
150's laid low many others,
sometimes killing at the same
time the persons who had
sought shelter under them.
Northwestern Angle of the Castle

194
MONDEMENT
The Castle's Western Front
he
be
Principal Entrance
Take the Broyes
road which passes be-
fore the principa!
entrance (photograph
opposite). The two
heraldic
lions
sur-
mounting the pillars
of the gateway are
worthy of notice. The
roofs of the buildings
were destroyed by
shells, and the main
building opposite the
gate has a temporary
zinc covering.
In the field on the
other side of the
Broyes road is the
grave where the
Zouaves and other
infantrymen, who fell
during the attack on
the castle, were bu-
ried (photograph op-
posite). After the
entrance gate come
the outbuildings, and
then
the kitchen-
garden, whose wall
we skirt.
The photograph at
the top of the next
page shows the two
sides on which the
French attacked on
the afternoon of the
9th of September.
Grave at Mondement

MONDEMENT
195
The Castle as it appeared to the Attacking Troops
The trees behind the kitchen garden are those of the park. On the right of
the horizon, and separated from Mondement by a hollow, are Allemant
woods.
The castle was taken by the Germans at daybreak on the 9th and was
immediately put into a state of defence. Loopholes were made in the walls
and machine-guns placed on the towers and at prominent windows. The
77th Line Regiment, which was reforming at Saint Loup, (see pages 180-
181), was directed in all haste to Mondement to counter-attack. Colonel
Lestoquoi placed a battalion on either side of the Broyes road in the woods,
which come to an end a few hundred yards from the south side of the kitchen
garden. The Zouaves and sharpshooters of the Moroccan division, also
hidden among the trees, were to attack on the other side, that of the principal
entrance.
The artillery preparation was entrusted to the guns of the Moroccan Division,
aided by the batteries of the 42nd Division, which had halted at Broyes before
descending into the
plain (see pages 180-
181).
The attack be-
gan at 2.30 p. m.
Major de Beau-
fort's battalion,
composed of Bre-
tons, to whom one
of their comrades, a
soldier priest, had
just given the abso-
lution, left the woods,
their bugles sounding
the charge. A mur-
derous fire met them
from the castle, but
could not stop them.
A breach had been
Breach in the Southern Wall of the Castle

196
MONDEMENT
The Castle Outbuildings
made in the wall by one of the French 75's and toward this Major de Beau-
fort rushed, only to fall struck by a ball in the forehead. Officers and men
succeeded him, but as soon as they appeared in the opening the fire of the
machine guns and rifles hidden in the outbuildings (photograph above) was
concentrated upon them and they succumbed before even reaching the garden.
A few, hoisting themselves on the shoulders of their fellows, gained the summit
of the wall, but an entry in mass, which alone could have ensured success,
was impossible On the other side the attack of the Zouaves and sharp-
shooters had met with equally great difficulties. Sheltering themselves behind
the trees on the road and the pillars of the railings, they sniped at the occu-
pants of the castle without being able to advance.
At the end of an hour of costly efforts orders were given to fall back and
the troops retired into the woods from which they had set out.
* Pieces of artillery were then dragged by the men to within three or four
hundred yards of the castle. The breaches in the wall increased, the rail-
ing collapsed in parts and the interior of the castle became untenable. When
the French renewed
the attack at night-
fall, they no longer
met with resistance,
for the garrison had
fallen back on the
marshes. The re-
treat had become
general on the front
of
von Hausen s
and von
Bülow's
armies.
The bombard-
ments devastated
the interior of the
castle. The views
on the present page
show to what a
state were reduced
the outbuildings
Debris of the Castle Motor Car

MONDEMENT
197
Visit of the President of the Republic
from which came the terri ble fire rencerir.g the passage of the breach so difficult.
On the 6th of September, 1917, the third Anniversary of the Battle of the
Marne was celebrated at the Castle of Mondement. The President of the
Republic, accompanied by the President of the Council and several ministers,
as well as by Field Marshal Joffre, General Foch and General Pétain, stopped
at Mondement on his way from Fère to Sézanne, after having visited the
Plateau of Rochelle near Fère-Champenoise (see p. 205).
Visit of the President of the Republic

198
MONDEMENT
General Foch Describing the Battle of the Marne
In the photograph at the top of p. 197 we see the group leaving the castle by
the principal entrance. The walls under their temporary roof still show traces
of shot and shell. Mr. Poincaré may be seen between Mr. Ribot, President of
the Council, and Mr. Painlevé, War Minister. Field Marshal Joffre is behind.
The photograph at the foot of p. 197 was also taken during the official visit
of the 6th of September, 1917. The tower on the left is the one seen on page
192 from the exterior. On comparing the two photographs we realize that
the signs of war are fast disappearing at this point. In the middle, near
the wall, the group formed by Mr. Poincaré, Mr. Ribot, Mr. Bourgeois,
Field Marshal Joffre and Generals Foch and Pétain, may be distinguished.
Those who took part in this pilgrimage had the good fortune to hear an
account of the events of September, 1914, from the lips of General Foch.
The above photograph was taken while in quiet but moving terms he described
the different phases
of the
the desperate
battle fought by
the 9th Army from
the 6th to the 10th
of September. This
improvised mili-
tary lecture was
delivered at the
foot of a walnut
tree which stands
in the meadow be-
fore the castle. On
pages 200-201 may
be seen the view
of the marshes as
they appeared to
the eyes of the
audience.
Mondement Cemetery

MONDEMENT
199
H5
Mondement Church
Opposite the turret seen in the photograph at the foot of p. 193 take a path
which leads to the church, which suffered much from the bombardment. The
breaches have now been repaired.
In the little graveyard (photograph p. 198) which surrounds it are buried
the officers who fell at Mondement; among them Major de Beaufort, who
commanded the attack, and Dr. Baur, killed by a shell, which at the same
time split the tree against which he was leaning.
General Humbert followed the march of events at the foot of the church
on the side facing the marshes (view above), when the castle became unten-
able. It is from this point that the panorama on pages 200-301 was taken
and which will now be described.
In the foreground of Panorama N (pages 200-201) may be seen the houses
of the village of Mondement, which village was carried by the Germans at the
same time as the castle and church, at daybreak on September 9th. The
French on their victorious return on the same evening drove out the
remaining occupants, firing on them as they hastened down the slopes to the
marshes.
On the right may be seen Reuves and the road connecting it with Mon-
dement. Oyes is visible on Panorama 0. We can easily follow the course
of the German attack. After having crossed the marshes, the Germans
drove Blondlat's Brigade of the Moroccan Division from these villages on
the 8th. The following day the handful of Zouaves and sharpshooters re-
maining in the castle, church and village were forced to retire into the woods
near Broyes.
On Panorama O the hill top from which the panorama on pages 188-189
was taken, may be distinguished, as also the “Crête du Poirier," which con-
tinues it to the left toward Botrait woods. This advanced line was, as we
have seen, fiercely disputed; the bombardment was terrible. In his fine
work on the Marshes of Saint Gond, in which he relates the memoires of
Mr. Roland, schoolmaster at Villevenard, Mr. Le Goffic tells us that the
percentage for the German shells as compared with the French was five to
one, and he cites a detail which illustrates the German character. "The
great 150 shells made a noise like a siren and drew shrieks of joy from those
assembled. “Oh, Germany,' bleated an old doctor, lifting his eyes to heaven
each time one of these steel monsters went bellowing forth.

200
MARSIES OF SAINT GOND
Petit Morin
Toulon-la-Montagne
The above panorama forms a continuation of panoramic view
O, and should be seen as joining same at the right on page 201.
N. PANORAMA OF THE
When the Germans had taken "Le Poirier," they advanced on the woods of
Saint Gond, in whose thickets violent combats took place. A final effort
carried them on September 9th on to the plateau at Montgivroux (see p. 202),
a little to the west of Mondement, which fell likewise in its turn, under the
direct attack from the marshes. This important success, however, came
Botrait Woods
"Crête
Saint Gond Woods du Poirier"
0. PANORAMA OF THE

MARSHES OF SAINT GOND
201
Reuves
Petit Morin
1
MARSHES OF SAINT GOND
two days too late. The 10th Corps was menacing Mondement on the flank,
and the intervention of the 42nd Division (see p. 23) destroyed the German's
hope of taking the plateau on the Broyes-Allemant side. The counter-attack
of the 77th (see p. 195-196) precipitated their retreat. Driven from the castle
the Germans recrossed in haste during the night of the 9th-10th of September
Oyes
MARSHES OF SAINT .GOND
See noteſ under viewift top of page 200.

202
MONDEMENT
als
Mondement Farm
the great dike of Saint Gond. They left baggage and numerous wounded
along the causeways. The Germans of 1914 were more fortunate than the
conscripts of 1814, for whom the marshes formed a grave. In the darkness
they escaped the fire which the French batteries at Mondement and Allemant
would have poured on them in daylight. When the 10th Corps began its march
eastward on September 10th, starting from the Champaubert-Saint Prix
front, it was able to sweep the north of the marshes and pick up the laggards
and heavy beer-drinkers, to whom the champagne had rendered bad service.
After having examined the panorama of the marshes, return to the road which
leads to the church and continue thereon in the direction of the farm, seen in the
photograph above. It suffered much from successive French and German
bombardments. As may be seen above, the work of reparation has begun.
The French when driven from the farm, took shelter in the wood a few
hundred yards away on the other side of the road. It was from the wood
that they began the counter-attack, which gave them back the farm, as well
as the castle and the church.
We retrace our steps to the castle, leaving the road which continues to follow
the edge of the plateau in the direction of Montgivroux, and rejoins No.
51, below Soizy. This part of the plateau was carried by the German attacks
coming from the Poirer and the woods of Saint Gond (see p. 188). The
'tirailleurs" fought heavy engagements on this point.
On returning to the castle take the Broyes road (G. C. 45) which passes before
the gates, then passing through the woods in which the 77th and the troops of the
Moroccan Division, which took Mondement, found shelter, and so on to Broyes
and the “Castle des Pucelles" which we saw at the beginning of our excursion.
Turn to the right into G. C. 39 and cross the village. At the crossroads after
Broyes, turn to the left and return to Sézanne, down a long slope which of'ers
a fine view of the plain and of the heights surrounding it. At the crossing after the
cemetery take the Rue de Broyes, in the middle, turn to the right and regain the hotel
(40 miles) for lunch, by the way of the Rue de la Halle and the Place de la République.

FROM SÉZANNE TO CHÂLONS-SUR-MARNE
(About 6534 miles)
Via CONNANTRE, FÈRE-CHAMPENOISE, CONNANTRAY, SOMMESOUS,
HAUSSIMONT, VASSIMONT, LENHARRÉE, NORMÉE
Return to the Place de la République and descend toward the lower part
of the town by the Rue des Lombards, turn to the left without crossing the
railway, along a road planted with trees. This is N. 34, which traverses
the plain in a perfectly straight line and which is to be seen in the panorama
on pages 178-181. On the left, on the horizon, the heights of Sézanne, Broyes,
Allemant and Mont-Chalmont are once more visible.
After a run of about 6 miles, we reach the villages of Linthes and Linthelles,
from which the counter-attack of the 42nd Division started on September 9th.
At that time, in the plain stretching to the left of the road, the French,
troops, which had been driven from the edge of the marshes and even from
Mont Août, were falling back southward. With them too, were those who
had been pushed back from the line of the Somme on to Fère-Champenoise,
Connantre and still further beyond. These troops, although worn out by
four days' fighting and exposed to violent artillery fire from the north, from the
east and from the south, would not give in and made use of every opportunity
for rearguard action.
The coming into the line of the 42nd Division braced up their forces for the
supreme effort asked for by Foch.
We are following the axis of the French march during this counter offen-
sive, the first result of which was the relief of Connantre. This village may
be seen from the road, on the right, before traversing the level-crossing; 100 yards
further on is the entrance to Connantre Castle, in which the Light Infantry
men took prisoner several hundred Grenadier Guards.
其他
​Graves in Fère Station

204
FÈRE-CHAMPENOISE
Ruins of the Electric Power Station
The road leads straight toward Fère-Champenoise across the plain dotted
here and there with clumps of trees. At Fère-Champenoise (about 13 miles)
turn to the left on the “Grand Place" in order to reach the station, which is about
900 yards away. It was much damaged by the bombardment. At about 300 yards
on the right, in following the railway lines, is the grave reproduced in the photo-
graph below.
The fighting around the station was very violent. .
We retrace our steps to the “Grand Place" Square, turn to the left before the
town hall and after passing it take the first street on the right in the direction of
Sommesous and Vitry-le-François. In this street, on the left, are the ruins
of the electric power station (view above), and on the right a few burned houses.
Fère-Champenoise fell into the hands of the Germans on September 8th,
when the heroic defence of the 11th Corps had been broken on the line of
the Somme, over which we are about to travel. The Reserve of the Guards
pillaged as a matter of course and celebrated noisily the German victory.
Near the town hall a piano was brought into the street to accompany the
dance of the soldiers, attired in all sorts of headgear, taken from the window
of a neighboring
hatter. Wine flowed
and the streets were
strewn with empty
bottles. It was in
the midst of these
rejoicings that the
order to retreat ar-
rived like a thun-
der-bolt on Sep-
tember 9th. On
the 10th, General
Foch made Fère
his headquarters.
On leaving the
town
come
Plateau of Rochelle seen from the Road
fan-shaped
we
across

PLATEAU
OF
ROCHELLE
205
Review on the Plateau of Rochelle
crossroads and take the road farthest to the left. Two hundred yards farther on
take the lane on the right, following the edge of the hill which dominates the Vaure.
After about 1/2 mile the summit of the hill is reached. On the right of the
road stretches the Plateau of Rochelle, dotted with clumps of pine and
covered with graves. Leave the car at the spot indicated in the photograph
at the foot of the preceding page, and set out on foot toward the centre of the plateau.
The third anniversary of the Victory of the Marne was celebrated on the
plateau on September 7th, 1917. In the photograph above may be seen (from
right to left the President of the Republic, General Petain (half hidden
by Mr. Poincaré), Mr. Ribot, President of the Council; Mr. Painlevé, War
Minister; Mr. Chaumet, Marine; Mr. Bourgeois, Public Works. Field Marshal
Joffre is in the background.
The tourist who, during the tour of the Ourcq, has visited the the plateau
of Barcy-Chambry, will experience with greater intensity the impression
of sadness which is evoked by the calm landscape and the numerous graves,
signs of the fierceness and obstinacy of the battle.
A remnant of the 11th Corps, which had been driven on the 8th from
View of the Plateau of Rochelle

206
PLATEAU OF ROCHELLE
the woods to the west of Normée (see p. 212), made a gallant stand on the
summit and sides of the plateau in the pine thickets and in improvised
trenches, which still exist here and there.
One of the most moving incidents was the defence of the standard of the
32nd. Two hundred men belonging to the 66th and the 32nd Regiments were
surrounded in a little wood near the Vaure, having with them the standard
of the 32nd, whose bearer had been killed. All the officers were dead or missing,
only a few adjutants and sergeants remained. These offered the command
to Sergeant Major Guerre of the 66th, a man of energy and resource. The
handful of heroes then formed a square and succeeded in repulsing the attack
of the enemy until the arrival of a field-piece rendered the position in the
wood untenable. Guerre divided his remaining troops into small companies,
then charged with the bayonet where the enemy was strongest. A machine
gun soon laid the brave fellow dead. The other companies took advantage
of this diversion to rejoin the French lines. Thirty men in all were able to do
so. Private Malvau and his comrade Bourgoin brought back the standard.
They lost themselves in the German lines, but were put on the right path by
an officer of the Guards, suffering from a bad wound which they dressed
for him.
After visiting the Rochelle plateau we retrace our steps to the entrance to Fère,
and take, on the left, N. 34 in the direction of Sommesous.
Pass straight through Connantray (about 2034 miles) to arrive, after traversing
a level-crossing, at Sommesous (about 2774 miles).
The station is on the left of the level-crossing. It changed hands several
times during the desperate encounters which took place here. Graves were
dug in the little station garden on the left to receive the bodies of the sol-
diers of the 60th Reserve Division who fell on this spot.
Follow N. 34 for about 200 yards in Sommesous, then turn to the left into
N. 77. The combats were particularly violent at the angle of these two
roads. Next, take the second street on the left, seen in the photograph below,
in order to reach the centre of the village. Sommesous was entirely de-
stroyed by bombardment and by fire. It is slowly rising again from its ashes.
Ruined House at Sommesous

SOMMESO US
207
The Church after the Bombardment
The church, of which the photograph above shows the condition after the
bombardment, is on the right of the street, toward the end of the village.
It is now being restored.
In going from Somme-
sous to Écury-le-Repos we
traverse the line of the
Somme which the 11th
Corps and the 60th Re-
serve Division defended
so energetically. This
line was formed
by
the river and by the
1
railway which follows it
at a little distance, on
the plateau of the left
bank. On the 6th and
7th of September this po-
sition was held by the
French against furious at
tacks by Saxons and Guards
supported by artillery. On
the 8th the French troops,
heavily outnumbered, were
obliged to withdraw to
Connantray
and Fère-
Champenoise.
The 9th of September
witnessed Foch's counter-
attack, which reached the
Somme on the 10th and
crossed it on the 11th
in pursuit of the enemy.
It was naturally at the
bridge-heads at Somme-
Inner View o' the Church after the Bo
mbard men

208
HAUS SIMONT
Vassimont
sous, Haussimont, Vassimont, Lenharrée, Normée and Écury that some of
the most obstinate fighting took place. The ruins there are numerous.
On leaving Sommesous the road crosses the railway on the level and goes toward
Haussimont, skirting the Somme, the valley of which is on the left. At Haussi-
mont, cross the Somme and turn to the right into G. C. 18 in order to enter
and pass through the village. A few houses are still in ruins, but many have
been rebuilt.
Castle of Chapelaine

VASSIMONT
209
Road in Hollow-Lenbarrée
G. C. 18 continues between the Somme and the railway toward Vassimont
(where we cross the river again). Turn to the left in order to traverse this locality,
which was much damaged, as may be seen in the view on p. 208.
Take the first road on the left on leaving the village and cross the Somme. Five
hundred yards further on is the hamlet of Chapelaine, with its castle of the same
name (photograph p. 208). The combat was intense at this point.
Return to G. C. 18 and turn to the left toward Lenharrée (about 33 miles).
On arriving there, we have on the left (on the right in the view above) the road
which descends to the river, along which frequent graves recall the fierce struggle
for the possession of the ford.
Di
Grave in a Farmyard-Lenharrée

210
LENHARRÉE
Graves near the Somme
Lenharrée formed a bridge-head on the right. The French held it on
September 6th and 7th, under a heavy fire. But on the morning of the 8th,
the two companies of the 225th, who up to this time had held at a respectful
distance, by means of their shooting and bayonet charges, much superior
German forces, were obliged to withdraw toward Connantray. The Saxons
and the Guards, masters of Normée, had managed to advance down the left
bank and threatened to take the defenders of Lenharrée in the rear. Among
the latter all the officers and non-commissioned officers had fallen dead or
wounded around Captain de Saint Bon, who fell himself just as he had given
orders to fall back. "Never mind me," he said to his soldiers, who wanted to
carry him away with them, “don't get yourselves killed trying to save me.
Trench near the Somme

NORMÉE
211
After their with-
drawal on the 8th
and 9th of Septem-
ber, the French re-
turned to the neigh-
borhood of Len-
harrée on the 10th
and entered it on the
11th. They found in
a barn 450 wounded
Germans and 150
French. The ter-
rible struggle had
drenched the village
with blood and red-
dened the waters of
the river. “There
are heaps of German
dead everywhere,"
Ruins at Normée
wrote a witness, "in
the streets, in the cellars, in the church, and in the cemetery. One walked
on them without being aware of it. Behind a hedge 10 yards in
length I counted 22; a hole in a rock about 18 feet deep, was a regular
charnel-house."
Graves in the courtyards of houses recall the hand-to-hand fighting.
There is one in the large ruined farm seen in the photograph on p. 209. This
farm is on the right after passing the first group of houses at the entrance to the
village, 50 yards after passing the cross-roads seen in the view at the top of p. 209.
During the German occupation, an old inhabitant, Mr. Félix, was killed
by blows from the butt-end of the rifles of German soldiers, whom he tried
to prevent from pillaging his house.
Continue to traverse the village, leaving the church on the right. We arrive at
the bridge around which are the graves of the men who fell during the combats
on this bitterly disputed spot (photograph p. 210).
Cross the bridge and turn to the right; 50 yards further on, take on the left, in a
cutting in the plateau, the road leading to the railway halting place for Lenharrée
(800 yards distant). Numerous graves border the railway and the road, for
the struggle which began at the Somme continued on the railway, before spread-
ing under German pressure to Fère-Champenoise, Connantray and beyond.
Return to G. C. 18, in which turn to the left. The road commands the Somme;
the troops of the 11th Corps had established trenches along the river bank
in order to obstruct
the passage. The
view on p. 210, taken
less than a mile be-
yond Lenharrée,
shows one of these
trenches in which is
a German grave.
On the left, all
the plateau, of
which G. C. 18 fol-
lows the edge, is
dotted with graves;
the fighting
particularly
desperate here on
the 6th and 7th.
Engagements also
took place on the
Level-Crossing at Normée
Was

212
É CURY-LE-REPOS
plateau on the op-
posite bank. The
91st Line Regiment,
coming up from
Lenharrée, particu-
larly distinguished it-
self during a night at-
tack on the Guards.
We arrive at Nor-
mée (about 36 miles)
which suffered much
from bombardment
(see p. 211). Shells
fell so thickly that
the village was evac-
uated on the 6th, the
troops retiring to the
railway line and to
Old Trench near the Somme at Écury
the woods around it.
In order to visit this
portion of the battlefield, turn to the left immediately after leaving Normée, into G.
C. 5, which goes toward Fère-Champenoise. Nearly 2 miles further on is the level-
crossing (view p. 211) which became famous after the events of September 6th-
Sth.
Leaving the car at the gate, cross the line on foot. In a clearing on the left (view
below) may be seen the old French trenches and the graves which were afterward
made near by. Other trenches are to be seen in the Pine Woods, which line the
road.
The Colonel commanding the 42nd Brigade was killed whilst defending the
level-crossing
The German attacks which were violent on the 7th, redoubled in fury on the
8th; the line of defence was pierced and the 35th Brigade, stationed in the woods
adjoining the Plateau of Rochelle, previously visited (see p. 205), had to fight
under difficult conditions. Certain sections were surrounded and fought their
way out at the price of heavy sacrifices during which they lost all their officers.
It was under these circumstances that the fine defence of the standard of the
32nd Line Regiment, related on p. 206, took place.
Return to G. C. 18 and turn to the left toward Écury-le-Repos; 200 yards
before arriving at the village, in a field on the right of the road overlooking
the Somme, is an old trench which has been used as a grave (view above).
Trenches and Graves near the Level-Crossing at Normée

MORAINS-LE-PETIT
213
I
Houses Being Rebuilt at Morains
In Ecury (about 42 miles) turn to the left after passing the church, then take the
first street on the right toward Morains-le-Petit. A few trenches are to be seen
here and there, and graves are still numerous.
Morains-le-Petit (about 4372 miles) is rising from its ruins as the photo-
tograph above shows. Turn to the right in the village, then to the left on leaving it,
into G. C. 9, in the direction of Bergères-les-Vertus. We are now in the theatre
of operations of the 17th Division and of the 52nd Reserve Division. The
task of the troops forming the right wing of the 9th Corps, was to prevent
the marshes from being outflanked on the east. They held on bravely, but
were obliged to retire to Mont Août on September 8th, their right having
been left exposed by the withdrawal of the 11th Corps.
At 100 yards from Morains is the source of the Morin, which at this point
is a tiny rivulet, often dry in summer. The ditch in which it flows was used
as a trench in the battles of 1914.
The view below, taken on the left of the wood, shows this ditch bordered
by a few shrubs and surrounded by graves.
Trench at the Sources of the Morin

214
CHÂLONS
The road continues toward Mont Aimé which rises solitary in the midst
of the plain; a little over 3 miles after passing Morains we arrive at this hill,
750 feet high, which seems a veritable mountain in the great plain of Cham-
pagne.
Leave the car on the road and set out to climb the hill, an easy task. It is
possible to gain the summit straightway, or to follow the zigzag path which begins
at the road. From the top there is a very fine view of the marshes and of
the whole plain of Champagne. The wall going and coming takes about 25
minutes.
Return to G. C. 9 and continue along into Bergères-les-Vertus (about 48
miles) where we meet with N. 53 and turn into it to the right toward Châlons-sur-
Marne.
The Germans traversed this road in both directions, within 6 days. They
advanced in all the excitement of a victorious pursuit; they returned in the
gloomy disappointment of defeat.
The journey to Châlons (about 66 miles) presents no difficulties; it is merely
necessary to follow N. 33, which passes through Chaintrix and Thibie. We
enter Châlons by the Avenue de Paris, then take the Rue du Faubourg-de-la-Marne
on the left. Cross the railway, then the Marne, and continue straight along the
Rue de la Marne, which crosses the canal, leaving the Cathedral on the right.
Before arriving at the Place de Ville turn to the right into the Rue des Lombards
leading to the Place de la République, where the hotels are.
Graves between Écury-Le-Repos and Morains-Le-Petit
III.
THE PASS OF REVIGNY
CHÂLONS-VITRY-BAR-LE-DUC

CHALONS-S.-MARNE
Terrain de Manoeuvres
Asile
de
LAON 9/
REIMS 43
La Veuve 9
Vieillards,
FRETHES
VOUZIERS
POPULATION: 31.267 Habitants
ALTITUDE: 83 Metres.
1
07
Quartier
de Cavalerie
ÉCHELLE
Suippes
Octro
Halte
(\B.R.
0
100
200
300
400
500
Pese a Fouting
1.000 m
Route
de
HOTELS :
Canal
Route
Chemis
a - HOTEL DE LA HAUTE-MÈRE-DIEU
b - HOTEL DU RENARD
Bassin
Depot
de Mendicio
Poste,
Télégraphe,
Téléphone
VERDUN
Palygona
d'Artilerie
REIMS
-St-Martin
Faubog
A. du Mont-Hery
Faubg St Antoine
Faubg St Jacques
Chemin
Hopital
PARIS
des Ajaux
caus
Jacques
etue Chanzy
tahanternet
Хjaux
Quartier Forgeot
Chem
Jaquesson
Basst
Ancien
Anton
STE-ME NEHOULD 42
VERDUN 87
N3 Octroi (111N. 3
BAR-LE-DUC 69,5
et
Route
de
Sle
Menehguld
Artillerie
Octron
Prison civile
Cand
Usine
Chemi
La Bitterie
Valmy
L'ESPLANADE
Garry
Jag
Nouveau
de
Generat pery
Antoine
7
Dorin
DOO
Abattoir
Chevalier
Fourche Pierre
Quai militaire
Bayen
UOSS
Cana
Xeules
Erode
sanborr
AB,R
Intendance
Etang
Port
Pierre
XOX
CHEVAUX
Bepal
Joseph
Ecote
Chemin
sor
(ellermani
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OF

CHÂLONS
217
CHÂLONS
ORIGIN AND CHIEF HISTORIC FACTS
Châlons in the XVIth Century
Châlons is of very ancient origin and was in the wird century the capital
of the Catalauni. In the Plain of Champagne which surrounds it, the Cata-
launian Fields, numerous invasions failed. The invasion of 1914 recalled
the epoch of Attila's Huns, who were beaten here in 451 by the Roman General
Aetius, Merovic, King of the Franks, and Theodoric, King of the Visigoths.
It is between Châlons and Troyes, rather nearer the latter town, that the most
eminent authorities assume this great victory over barbarism to have taken
place.
Up to the xviiith century, the bishopric of Châlons was one of the most
important in France.
CHÂLONS IN 1914
The town, which had been evacuated by three-quarters of its inhabitants,
received a few shells on September 4th. Some of the stained-glass windows
of the cathedral were smashed; a part of the roof of the Hôtel-Dieu was
broken in, and the Children's Ward, which was fortunately empty, received
a 4.2 shell.
Saxon troops entered the town at 4 p. m., and the Mayor, Mr. Bernard,
having left, Mr. Servas, his deputy, took over the direction of municipal
affairs. The Bishop, Mgr. Tissier and the Abbé Laisnez, his chaplain, were
equally heroic during these tragic times. A contribution of $6,000,000 was
demanded for the department of the Marne by the Germans. Mgr. Tissier
was able to persuade them to lower it to $100,000 for Châlons.
From the 7th to the 11th of September, great numbers of German wounded
came in, and were treated in the Military Hospital, the Hôtel-Dieu, the
town hall, and when these overflowed, in the barracks, the college, and even
in private houses. On the 11th of September the Saxon troops left the town
hurriedly, and on the 12th, the French retook possession of it.
Visit to the Town
(See map inserted opposite.)
Of great interest: the Cathedral (pp. 218-221); Nôtre-Dame (pp. 222-224);
Nôtre-Dame-de-l'Épine (pp. 229-231).
Of interest: Saint Alpin (pp. 225-226). to archaeologists: Saint Jean (p.
226); pretty walk: the Jard (p. 227).

218
CHÂLONS
Cathedral of Saint Stephen (historical monument)
(See map inserted between pp. 216-217)
a fire
The Cathedral
has had a very
eventful history.
It dates from the
Carolingian times
and was destroyed
in 963, when the
town was taken
by Robert of Ver-
mandois. It was
rebuilt, only to be
destroyed again in
1138 by
caused by light-
ning. It was once
more rebuilt and
enlarged, but in
1230 a similar dis-
aster overtook it.
The rebuilding
Cathedral (Photo L. L.)
this time took
many years to accomplish, for at the beginning of the xvth century the nave
was unfinished and the western doorway not begun.
In 1520, there was set up on the north tower of the transept (see photo
below), a wooden spire covered with lead and richly ornamented, about
310 feet in height. In 1628, the two final bays of the nave were completed
and the western doorway entirely built (photo above). Unfortunately, its
style jars with the Gothic of the rest of the church. In 1668, the Cathedral
was struck by lightning for the third time; the spire fell and drove in the
vaulting and the crypt. After another
restoration the two towers of the transept
were embellished with stone spires which
were reconstructed in 1821, then finally
removed. In 1850, the south front of
the transept was entirely rebuilt. In
1862, all the xvith century chapels in
the aisles off the nave were done
away with. Quite recently the two
towers, together with
together with the doorways
of the transept, have been restored.
On the whole the Cathedral is an
imposing edifice. We have seen above
that the west front dates from the
xviith century and is in the Classical
style. Corinthian columns and pilas-
ters flank a Gothic rose window.
A
balcony runs along each story, and
a pediment surmounts the whole. A
much-damaged bas-relief above the
entrance door represents the stoning
of Saint Stephen. The long nave, with
its lines of elegant flying-buttresses,
rejoins the transept, of which the
north front (photo opposite) is the
most interesting. The southern one
was completely rebuilt in the xixth
century.
North Transept of the Cathedral
1320321373

CHÂLONS
219
The north
tower of the
transept is the
older. The lower
part of it dates
back to the an-
cient Roman -
esque Cathedral.
The walls are
pierced by round-
arched bays.
The south tower
belongs to the
xinth century.
Its ba ys are
Gothic in style.
Three ra dial
Chapels, dating
prctably from
Apse and Transept of the Cathedral
the xvithcentury
open off the
apse.
In the interior, the nave comprises nine bays, the two first of which, start-
ing from the west front, date from the xviith century; the others, and also
the choir and transept, are of the month century.
As in the Cathedral of Rheims, the choir advances into the nave, of which it
occupies two bays. The high altar, under a canopy (see photo below), supported
by marble pillars, belongs to the xviith century. In the north branch of the
transept is a fine xvith century bas-relief representing Christ lying in his tomb
which is attributed to Ligier-Richier, the Lorraine Master whose masterpiece
we shall see in St. Peter's Church at Bar-le-duc (p. 269). The Cathedral is
paved with tombstones. The most beautiful ones are to be seen in the ambu-
latory, especially two adjoining
the pillars of the choir.
In the sacristy, which opens
off the south branch of the
transept, may be seen the treas-
ure composed of a little xiiith
century enameled brass shrine
called Saint Rémy's with me-
dallions representing the
apostles; and a xiith century
mitre and shoe, said to be Saint
Malachy's. The mitre is of red
silk embroidered in gold and
silver; the shoe is of red leather
inlaid with gold.
The stained-glass windows of
the Cathedral are very remark-
able, although most of them
have been restored. The three
upper windows at the back
of the apse belong to the
XIIIth century, as do the rose-
window in the north arm of
the transept, dedicated to the
childhood of Christ, and the
twelve panels of the tri-
forum, representing the apos-
tles.
Nave of the Cathedral

220
CHÂLONS
Lights in the First South Window (XVth Century Stained Glass)
Creation of the Animals
Creation of Man
The stained-glass windows of the north aisle are almost all modern and
in imitation of the style of the month century. Those of the south aisle belong
to the xvth and xvith centuries, except the ninth window, nearest the transept,
which dates from the month century. Our illustrations give an idea of the
simple yet skilful composition of these little masterpieces, but cannot repro-
duce the beauty of their coloring.
dan
Filmlysbart
IGRE
VE
Adam and Eve Before the Tree
Adam and Eve Hiding Themselves

CHÂLONS
221
Lights in the First South Window (XVth Century Stained Glass)
otus turi
ADAT PARA
finy
The Condemnation
Adam and Eve Driven Out of Paradise
The second window on the south represents scenes from the life of the
Virgin. The third and fourth are devoted to Christ; the fifth to the life
and stoning of Saint Stephen; the sixth to the Virgin, and different saints
and donors; the ninth to the Baptism of Christ and to various saints. All
this stained glassiwas removed and put into a place of safety for the duration of
the War.
WW
incm
laboral
CAVY DL Lit alori ft. Rull
kimit
Adam Begins to Work
Cain Kills Abel

222
CHÂLONS
Nôtre-Dame en Vaux (historical monument)
(See map inserted between pp. 216-217)
Like the Cathedral, Notre-Dame
dates back to Carolingian times. In
the with century it possessed notran-
sept, but included a semi-circular
apse flanked by two towers, on the
site of which rise the two of today
(see p. 224), which date from the xnth
century and recall those of the Cathe-
dral. There remains of the xirth cen-
tury Romanesque church, besides
almost the whole of the transept, the
south door under the porch, the pillars
and the aisles of the nave, as well as
the ground floor of the west front.
In 1157 Nôtre-Dame collapsed
and was partly reconstructed. The
apse was rebuilt with three radial
chapels. In the nave and choir the
round arches of the tribunes and ar-
cades were replaced by pointed ones;
the walls were raised in height and
pierced by windows, below which
was established a triforium (photo
below). Gothic vaulting in the nave
Notre-Dame
and transept replaced the wooden
roof. The two stories and the pinnacle of the west front, between the towers,
belonged to this period.
In the xivth century, the four towers were surmounted by wooden spires
covered with lead, painted and gilded. To the xvth century belongs the beau-
tiful porch in the Flamboyant style which precedes the south door of the with
century. The Revolution destroyed three of the four spires in order to utilize
the lead, and mutilated the sculptures of the doors. Notre-Dame was com-
pletely restored about 1852. The steeple of the north tower of the west
front was reconstructed, but the towers of the apse remained despoiled of
the elevated pyramids which gave to Nôtre-Dame a very characteristic
silhouette recognizable in the centre of the old engraving reproduced on p. 217
Nave of Notre-Dame

CHÂLONS
223
The south porch, visible
in the photograph opposite,
was built in 1469. The bay is
surmounted by an angular
pediment, and the gable is or-
namented by graceful arcad-
ing in the Flamboyant style.
The south front of the tran-
sept (photo opposite) which
adjoins the Gothic porch, is
a fine piece of work in the
Romanesque style, with its
round arches and its sculp-
tured rose-windows. The
little xunth century sundial
on the buttress in the middle
of the front, a short distance
below the windows is worthy
of note. It is one of the oldest
known.
The interior of Nôtre-
Dame is simple and digni-
fied (see below and on p. 222).
It has been completely re-
stored. The pillars which
support the arcades are those
of the earlyRomanesque
Porch and South Transept of Notre-Dame
church (see photo p. 224).
Their capitals are finely
sculptured. Above the lower arcades runs a gallery which opens onto the
choir and nave by means of bays composed of twin lights. A little triforium
separates this gallery from the higher windows (see below).
The windows of the aisles of
Notre-Dame are filled with
beautiful xvith century stained
glass, which at the beginning
of the War was taken down and
put away for fear of damage
from air-raids. We reproduce
a panel from one of them,
which represents the donor
kneeling in prayer to Saint
Martha, her patron saint, who
is trampling under foot the
“Tarasque,
the mythical
monster of Tarascon. The
saint is subduing it by sprink-
ling it with holy water.
The principal stained-glass
windows in the north aisle
are: in the first window begin-
ning at the great doorway, the
battle of "las Novas de Tolosa'
won by the Spaniards over the
Noors in the xunth century,
donors, patrons and the Trans-
figuration. The following win-
dow deals with the death and
Coronation of the Virgin and
represents the donors (the panel
Choir of Notre-Dame

224
CHÂLONS
reproduced on this page
belongs to this window).
The third window is dedi-
cated to the life of Saint
Anne and the Virgin;
the fourth represents the
Adoration, the Massa-
cre of the Innocents, the
Flight into Egypt, the
Last Supper; the fifth,
the Passion; the sixth
the Ascension, the Vir-
gin, Christ crowned, pa-
trons and donors. In
the south aisle the first
window represents the
life of Saint James, the
Transfiguration, Christ
appearing to his disci-
ples; the second, scenes
from the life of the Vir-
gin; the third, the Last
Supper; the fourth, the
life of the Virgin and the
legend of Saint James.
As in all the churches
in the neighborhood,
mortuary stones are
numerous.
Apse of Notre-Dame
Donor and Saint Martha
(XVIth Century Stained Glass)
Romanesque Pillar
In the Nave

CHÂLONS
225
Church of Saint Alpin (historical monument)
(See map inserted between pp. 216-217)
Saint Alpin
This was at first. merely a
chapel dedicated to Saint An-
drew. In the ixth century it
was placed under the patronage
of Saint Alpin when the body
of this Bishop of Châlons was
transported there.
Saint Alpin, like Saint Loup
at Troyes, and Saint Geneviève
in Paris, went out to confront
Attila and succeeded in obtain-
ing a promise that the town
should be spared by the "Scourge
of God." A Xvith century
stained-glass window (the first
in the south aisle) commemo-
rates this episode in the life of the
saint (photo below). The bishop,
his mitre on his head, the cross
in his hand, surrounded by clergy
and laymen, is pleading the
cause of the town before the
King of the Huns, seated amidst
his warriors on a sumptuous
throne, at the foot of which are
captives in chains.
As we have seen on p. 217,
fifteen centuries later, the same
scene was enacted. In Septem-
ber, 1916, Mgr. Tissier, Saint
Alpin's successor in the bishopric
of Châlons, was obliged to plead
for his town with the invaders.
The church of Saint Alpin
was reconstructed and enlarged
in the minth century. From
this period date the west front
(see above), the nave and its
side aisles. The north branch
of the transept belongs to the
xivth century, the south branch
to the xvith.
The asse goes back to the
xvith century as does the
tower surmounting the middle
of the transept, also the chapels
of the side aisles. At the same
period, doors leading into each
aisle were pierced on either side
of the doorway of the west front.
The church was subjected
to important repairs in the
xixth century, and statues
of Saint Andrew and Saint
Alpin, its two patrons, were
installed in niches on either
side of the central doorway.
Saint Alpin Before Attila (XVIth Century Stained Glass)

226
CHÂLONS
In the interior, we find a
fine collection of xvith century
stained glass in the windows
of the south aisle and of the
ambulatory.
As in the other
churches in Châlons, the war
caused them to be removed to a
place of safety. We reproduce
two of them: Saint Alpin before
Attila (see p. 225), and the life
of the Virgin (photo opposite).
In the latter, the top of the
right hand light represents the
birth of the Virgin, the lower
portion of the middle light, the
Presentation in the Temple;
Saint Anne and Saint Joachim
bringing the sacrificial lambs and
doves, lead Mary to the High
Priest. The upper portion of this
light depicts the Glorification of
the Virgin. On the left of the
window is Saint Martha, in a
rich Renaissance costume, hold- Life of the Virgin (XVIth Century Stained Glass)
ing in her hand the vessel of holy
water and the sprinkler which she used to subdue the “Tarasque” (see p. 225).
Mortuary stones are also to be seen here; and let into the wall of the am-
bulatory is a beautiful xvith century bas-relief of the Virgin and Child,
two donors and their patrons. On one of the southern pillars of the transept
is a fine “Ecce Homo" on a background of gold, also of the xvith century.
Si
TH
Church of Saint John (historical monument)
(See map inserted between pp. 216-217)
This church is the most ancient building in Châlons. The nave dates from
1050; the choir, the apse and the transept belong to the xiiith century, the
principal front to the xivth.
The tower of the transept
was built in the xviith, when
the side aisles were vaulted and
reconstructed. The Roman-
esque nave, with round arches,
has a xviith century wooden
vault; but above it, the wooden
frame-work of the interior of
the roof contains some skilful
xivth century carpentry. The
capitals and the pillars are
very plain and some seem
to be anterior to the with
century; the branches of the
transept are doubled by
side-aisles transformed into
chapels, which flank the
choir. The apse terminates
in a flat wall. Important
restorations were carried out
in this old church in the
xixth century.
Saint John's

CHÂLONS
227
The Jard
(See map inserted between pp.
216-217)
The Jard is a very pretty park of
extremely ancient origin, being men-
tioned in with century documents.
The marshy ground was drained,
raised and planted with trees. In
the xvinth century it was laid out as it
is to-day. The walks were bordered
with elms which after a century of
existence were cut down in 1870,
and replaced by horse-chestnut trees.
On Sundays and Thursdays concerts
are given here.
The Garden, which occupies the
northeast portion of the Jard on the
banks of the Nau Canal, was made in
1861 for a Horticultural Exhibition.
The old xvith century castle of Marché,
now transformed into the Savings
bank, looks on to this canal. The
photograph opposite gives an idea of its
picturesque aspect. The English Garden
stretches between the canal and the
Savings Bank seen From Nau Canal Marne. It was laid out in the beginning
(Photo L. L.)
of the sixth century. A footbridge (photo
below) connects it with the Jard. From
the top of this bridge there is a pretty view of the canal which divides at
this point to surround a wooded isle.
OTHER MONUMENTS AND OBJECTS OF INTEREST
(See map inserted between pp. 216-217)
Church of Saint Loup
Dates from the xivth and xth centuries, but was rebuilt in the xixth.
The front, the tower and the spire which rises above the transept are entire y
modern, and the old xviith century doorway has been removed to the court-
yard of the museum in the town hall.
In the interior, in the second chapel of the right aisle, is a little xvith century
Flemish triptych representing the Adoration of the Wise Men. At the end
of the right aisle, near the branch of the transept, is a wooden carving of Saint
Christopher, of the
xyth century.
Hôtel de Ville.
The present
building replaced
at the end of the
XVIIIth century the
old Renaissance
town hall. It con-
tains the Library
and the Museum.
the latter look-
ing on the Place
Godart. Enter
by the Rue d'Or-
feuil (open to
Footbridge connecting the Jard with the English Garden

228
CHÂLONS
the public on Thursdays and Sundays, from noon to 5 p. m., and every day
to visitors to the town). The museum contains interesting collections of sculpture,
ancient paintings and a natural history section.
Prefecture
The Prefecture was built in the xvinth century, and was formerly the hôtel
of the "Intendance de Champagne." The north wing was built in 1846. The
Prefecture contains a remarkably fine xvth century chimney-piece (photo be-
low), on which is carved a mythological triumphal procession, flanked by figures
representing Faith and Charity.
Sainte Croix Gate
This is a triumphal arch erected in 1770 for the passage of Marie Antoinette,
on her arrival in France to wed the Dauphin. It remained unfinished.
National School of Arts and Crafts
The school was founded by Napoleon in 1806, and is one of the five important
State Schools for educating engineers and skilled foremen. The buildings are
of the xvinth century. The school possesses fine laboratories and industrial
collections.
Sainte Croix and Saint Jean Avenues
These are fine avenues, remains of the boulevards which surrounded the
town.
The Military Cemetery
Rue Kellermann, in the eastern part of the town, near the cavalry quarters,
is on a lower level than the old civilian cemetery. It contains the remains of
several thousand soldiers who died in the hospitals of the town.
Chimney Piece in the Prefecture (XVth Century)

NÔTRE-DAME DE L'ÉPINE
229
Notre-Dame de l'Épine (historical monument)
(See plan inserted between pages 216-217, and map between 234-235)
In order to reach
Nôtre-Dame de l'Epine,
which is nearly 5 miles
from Châlons, leave Châ-
lons by the Avenue de
Metz, which begins at
Saint Jean Square. This
avenue rejoins N. 3, in
which turn to the right.
It is a straight road to
l'Épine, Nôtre-Dame
comes into view sud-
denly at the entrance to
the village, which, as the
above photo shows, has
suffered greatly. A large
Notre-Dame de l'Épine in the Midst of Ruins
number of its houses
have been destroyed by
fire, but the old church had a miraculous escape. Nôtre-Dame, which dates
from the xvth century, replaced an earlier edifice built on the spot where,
according to legend, a heavenly light disclosed a statue of the Virgin in a bush.
From the beginning of the with century, pilgrims flocked to say their prayers
at the foot of the miraculous statue. Although now seven hundred years old,
this pilgrimage still retains its famous reputation.
The church was built by the inhabitants of the district, pious workmen
coming from as far as Bar and Verdun; and the expression "aller à l'Épine,"
meaning to work for nothing, still exists. The church was finished in the
xvith century. Three doorways in the xvth century front open on the
ground-floor and are surmounted by angular pediments. The central door-
way, the largest and most interesting of the three, is dedicated to Christ.
A crucifix is to be seen in the centre
of the pediment. In the tympanum
is represented the Birth of Christ
and scenes from the Passion are
carved on the lintel. A Xvith
century Virgin, holding in her
arms the Infant Jesus, stands
with her back to the pier which
supports the tympanum and di-
vides the entrance into two parts.
The curve of the arch and
the side doors of the porch
were ornamented with sculp-
tures, of which many now are
missing or mutilated. A beau-
tiful rose-window and two large
windows light the front below
the towers.
The spires of unequal he ght,
are of stone and are formed of
eight branches united in a crown
in their middle; that on the right
is a royal crown with the lilies;
that on the left is an im-
perial one,
bearing eight
eagles. In 1798, Claude Chappe,
the inventor of aerial teleg-
Front of Notre-Dame de l'Épine
raphy, installed an apparatus on

230
NÔTRE-DAME DE L'ÉPINE
South Front of Notre-Dame de l'Épine
the left spire, which was destroyed. It was restored in the xixth century.
Walk around the exterior of the church in order to examine the succes-
sion of gargoyles projecting from the buttresses. They have been carved
in a keen, satirical spirit.
The south doorway is flanked by two turrets, each containing a stairway.
All the statues which ornamented the curve of the arch, the jambs and the
pier are missing. On the
much-damaged lintel is a
representation of the life
of Saint John the Baptist.
The doorway is dominated
by a beautiful window.
The chapels round the apse
were added in the xvith
century.
The interior of Notre-
Dame de l'Épine, which
had been completely re-
stored, is very interesting.
The most striking parts
are the transept and the
choir. In the north arm
of the transept,
visible
in the photo opposite the.
Renaissance woodwork of
the organ is noteworthy.
In the sculptured figures
with which it is decorated,
Greek divinities, Jupiter,
Venus, Apollo, etc., are side
by side with the apostles.
A well with fine wrought-
iron fittings, seen in the
photograph, dates from the
origin of the edifice. It is
the Virgin's Well, from
which pilgrims drink and
carry away the water.
Rood-Loft of Notre-Dame de l'Épine
ക് മറ്റ് ദ

NOTRE-DAME DE L'ÉPINE
231
The curious rood-loft at the entrance to the choir, shelters the miracu-
lous statue. One obtains access from the choir to the rood-loft by two spiral
stairways. It was from the upper gallery that in former times the Epistle
and Gospel for the day were read. The name of "jubé” is derived from the
formula by which the reader previously besought the blessing of heaven:
"Jube, Domine, benedicere."
The Virgin is in a modern gilded shrine, which may be seen under the
first arch, in the photograph at the foot of page 230. The statue has been re-
stored in modern times. The choir is surrounded by a stone cloister, the
style of which varies from Gothic to Renaissance.
On the left side of this cloister is a beautiful Gothic edifice which contained
sacred relics. It may be seen in the photograph below.
Five chapels adorn the apse. The first on the right, shut off by a stone
balustrade, is used as a sacristy; the following one contains a stone carving
representing the Entombment; it dates from the xvith century.
After visiting Nôtre-Dame de l'Épine, return to Châlons by N. 3, the road
taken to come here.
If it is desired to begin at once the tour of which indications are given on p.
19, turn to the right at Saint Jean Square, taking the Rue du Général-Compère.
Follow the tram-lines which cross the Place des Ursulines, and take the Rue Pasteur
on the left. Cross the canal, and by the Rue d'Orfeuil, reach the Place de l'Hôtel-
de-Ville. Turn to the left, follow the Rue de Marne, and leave the town by the
Faubourg de Marne.
Interior View of Notre-Dame de l'Épine
VISIT TO THE FIELD OF OPERATIONS
OF THE 4TH FRENCH ARMY

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UNID
VIEW

I._FROM CHÂLONS TO VITRY-LE-FRANCOIS
(About 3872 miles)
Via VATRY, BUSSY-LETTRÉE, DOMMARTIN-LETTRÉE, SOUDÉ, SOMPUIS,
HUMBAUVILLE, HUIRON, COURDEMANGES, FRIGNICOURT
(See map inserted between pp. 234-235)
Leave Châlons by the Fau-
bourg de Marne, taken on ar-
rival there. At the end of the
Faubourg, turn to the left into
the Avenue de Paris, then to
the right into N. 77 in the di-
rection of Vatry (about 11
miles). In this village leave
the Route Nationale in order
to take, on the left, G. C. 12,
going toward Bussy-Lettrée,
reached after having crossed a
level-crossing. Enter the village
as far as the middle; there, turn to
the right, then to the left, leaving
the church on the left (nearly
1272 miles). The road next
Dommartin Church
leads to Dommartin-Lettrée
(about 16 miles) and passes before the quaint church reproduced above. Its
two doorways are interesting; the western one, which faces the road, is
reproduced on p. 236; the southern one may be remarked under the porch
in the general view of the church.
Continue straight on, arrive at Soudé, pass through it, turning to the right in
the Square, and come out into N. 34 (about 1872 miles). Turn to the left in it,
then leave it almost immediately to take, on the right, G. C. 12, which continues
as far as Sompuis (about 232 miles), after passing under the railway embank-
ment. We are entering the field of operations of the extreme left of Langle de
Cary's army. Several graves have been made in the embankment; one of them,
visible in the photo on p. 236, marks the place where, on September 10th,
the same shell killed General Barbade and Colonel Hamon, who were command-,
ing the two brigades of the 23rd Division, as well as their aides-de-camp.
The body of General Barbade is buried in the cemetery.
On the right of the road, closing in the horizon, are the wooded heights
on which the Germans had organized strong positions. They were taken
from the Saxons on September 9th-10th by the 21st Corps.
Cross straight through Sompuis, passing before the church, which is surrounded
by a graveyard (see p. 236).
On the evening of September 6th, the Germans entered the village unopposed,
a fact which did not prevent them from setting fire to several houses,

236
SOMPUIS
or from taking a number of hostages
under various pretexts; one of them, Mr.
Arnould, because he had set up on
the roof of his house a chimney-pot
to replace one destroyed during the bom-
bardment. Some soldiers passing at this
very moment saw in this humble domestic
task an attempt to signal to the French
troops.
Abbé Oudin, rector of Sompuis, aged 73
years, and his servant, aged 67 years, were
also arrested, the installation of electric bells
in the rectory having appeared suspicious.
They were shut up in their cellar, where
several other hostages were soon sent to
join them. They were left without any
food until the afternoon of September 8.
The Abbé had been taken out for a short
period in the morning in order to assist at
the celebration of Mass in his church, where
Abbé Prince Max of Saxe officiated.
The hostages were led away toward Doorway of Dommartin Church
Châlons. "It was evident,” said one of
them in his statement before the Commission of Inquiry, "that on account
of his age and feebleness, Abbé Oudin could not walk far. We were obliged
to carry him, so to speak. Near Coole (about 4 miles north of Som puis) our es-
cort made us halt, and two soldiers who had seen a butcher's cart standing
abandoned in a field, dragged it on the road, and said 'Get in, Curé.' The
poor man was so feeble that he was unable to do so. The Germans tipped
up the cart, and as the back did not open they made the old priest sit on the
edge, then raised the shafts so quickly that he fell on his back into the bottom
of the cart, his feet in the air. The old servant got up beside him, and the
Germans made signs to us to put ourselves between the shafts and to drag
the cart. As we set out they all threw their ha versacks on top of the
abbé and his servant, as they would have thrown them onto a bundle of
hay.”
The hostages thus traversed Châlons and arrived at Suippes, where they
spent the night out of doors, in the playground of the school, in the rain.
"At Vouziers, during the whole of Sunday, the 13th,” declared a witness,
“Abbé Oudin was unceasingly ill-treated by the German officers as well
as by the soldiers, but principally by the officers. The latter came in large
numbers and each of them in passing spat in the abbé's face, or struck
him with their riding whips. I saw officers and soldiers kick the
poor man with their spurs. He was so weak that he no longer stirred
in spite of all that he must have been suffering. I saw soldiers, too,
strike him with the butt-end of their rifles; but I insist that the
officers were worse than the men. These atrocities only ended in the
evening. Abbé Oudin passed the night lying on the ground
like we hardly heard him
once
complain.”
The Abbé's old servant did not escape
ill-treatment either. On the Sedan Road,
in Tannay Church, four soldiers seized
her, threw her into a blanket, of which
they held the four corners, and tossed her
on to the altar steps; then, laying hold of
her again, they threw her into the midst
of the seats, without paying any attention
to the piercing cries which her many bruises
drew from her. Sedan was Abbé Ou-
Graves at Sompuis
din's last stage; there death put an
us;

HUIRON
237
end of his sufferings. His
servant, after careful nursing
in the hospital recovered, but
another victim succumbed to
the results of German brutal-
ity, a hostage named Mou-
geot, aged 72. He was brought
in a handcart to Pafert Bar-
racks, with four ribs broken
by kicks, and thrown onto a
bundle of straw, where he
soon expired.
While these events were
in
progress the battle of
the Marne had been won.
Sompuis was retaken amidst
Houses Destroyed in Huiron
fierce fighting on the 10th,
at 5 p. m., by the 21st Corps, which freed another victim in the village itself:
an old man of 70, named Jacquemin, who had been tied to his bed by a German
officer and left there without food for three days. "Each time that he asked for
food or water," declared his daughter-in-law, "he was
struck.” A shell fell on the house and killed the tor-
mentor on the spot. The corpse of the officer was
found in the house of his victim, who died two or
three days after his deliverance, as the result of the
ill-treatment he had received.
On leaving Som puis, continue straight along
G. C. 12 to Humbauville.
The heights seen on the right were gallantly de-
fended on September 8th, by a detachment of Bre-
tons against Saxon attacks. On the 9th, the latter
were thrown back in disorder by the 13th Division
which had been sent as a reinforcement.
At the entrance to Humbauville (almost 26 miles),
turn to the right, then, at the church, take on the left G.
C. 14, in the direction of Huiron. We are now on the
battlefield of the 17th Corps. G. C. 14 formed the
French position at the beginning of the battle; on the
6th, the road was left behind, and the Germans Doorway of Huiron Church
driven back northward as far as the railway line
going from Sompuis to Huiron. But on the 8th, the 17th Corps was repulsed
in its turn, and G. C. 14 became the German line. The French troops clung
to the heights to the south of the road and particularly to Certine Farm,
where General Dupuis was killed.
The fighting was of a desperate
character. The Germans, in their
fury, revenged themselves on
the wounded; eight badly
hurt soldiers
the
88th
Infantry Regiment, whom Sub-
Lieutenant Baudens had been
obliged to leave behind, were
found dead, with their hands
tied behind their backs, their
bodies riddled with bullets and
bayonet wounds.
On the 9th and 10th, the 17th
Corps counter-attacked vigor-
ously, and with the aid of the
Goullet Division, which had been
attached to it, succeeded on the
Church and Ancient Abbey of Huiron
of

238
COUR DEMANGES
Nave of Huiron Church
night of the 10th-11th, in re-
passing the railway line.
We reach Huiron (nearly
33 miles which was com-
pletely destroyed by the
fire kindled by the Ger-
mans on September 7th,
after having taken the vil-
lage from the 12th Corps.
The interesting with cen-
tury church and the ruins
of the abbey building
backing up to it, have
been ravaged by the flames.
The pillars of the nave have
crumbled away, and in the
photo above frag-
ments of broken
columns may be seen
scattered about.
Huiron was only re-
taken on the night
of the 10th-11th.
Four hundred yards
from the church, turn
to the right into G.
C. 2;
then after
about 700 yards, turn
to the left in or-
der to enter the
village of Cour-
demanges,
which
has suffered much
from fire and
bombardment. On
Ruins at Courdemanges
Floods at Foot of Mont Moret

FRIG NICOURT
239
on
the right of the
street stood the
castle which has
been completely de-
stroyed.
Courdemanges,
which was occupied
the 6th by
the 12th Corps, was
attacked with great
violence. It was
abandoned at 5 p.
m.,
and retaken
during the
the night.
Continuously
shelled by the Ger-
mans on the 7th
and 8th, it fell on
Graves near Frignicourt
the latter day into
their hands. The
12th Corps counter-attacked energetically, but only succeeded on the 11th in
re-entering the village.
After going as far as the church, return again by the same road to G. C. 2 and
cross it in order to go straight toward Frignicourt. On the right is Mont Moret,
which played an important part in the fighting in this region. The batteries
of the 12th Corps were installed there on the 6th of September. After heavy
shelling and infantry attacks, Mont Moret fell on the morning of the 8th.
but units of the 12th Corps, aided by the Colonial Corps, counter-attacked
with determination, and in the evening entered into possession of the
ridge, capturing a few machine-guns. They remained there in spite of
the fierce assaults which caused heavy losses to the Germans and gave no
result.
The road crosses the railway in a low-lying plain often flooded by the Marne,
as seen in the photo on p. 238; Mont Moret can be distinguished in the back-
ground.
One hundred yards before arriving at Frignicourt, on the right and
on the left of G. C. 14 are the graves depicted in the photographs on this page.
The soldiers who lie buried there are those who gallantly defended
the passage of the Marne on September 6th. The French troops over-
whelmed by the fire of the German artillery at Vitry, were obliged to
fall back on Courdemanges and Mont Moret. The Germans in their
turn were violently shelled by the French guns but succeeded in
holding out in Frignicourt until the 11th.
After crossing the Marne, enter
Frignicourt (about 37 miles),
whose ruins are being gradually
reconstructed. Turn to the left
to reach Vitry-le-François (plan
p. 240). After passing the toll-
gate, take the Rue du Passage-
Supérieur on the left, then, after
crossing the railway, turn to the
left into the Avenue du Colonel
Moll. Cross the Boulevard Fran-
çois Ier, and take the Petite
Rue de Frignicourt on
the
left, which leads into the Rue
de Frignicourt,
central
artery, in which turn to the
right to reach the hotel (about
Graves near Frignicourt
38 miles).
240
VITRY-LE-FRANÇOIS
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VITRY-LE-FRANÇOIS
241
VITRY-LE-FRANÇOIS
ORIGIN AND CHIEF HISTORICAL FACTS
Vitry-le-François dates from the xvith
century. The town was built in 1545 by or-
der of Francis I in order to replace Vitry-en-
Perthois, burned the year before by Charles
V. The ruins of old Vitry were utilized for
the construction of the new, which was
named after its founder. This complete re-
building explains the remarkable regularity
of the town, plans of which were drawn up
by an Italian architect, Marino. Vitry was
fortified, but its ramparts were condemned
and demolished in the mixth century.
VITRY-LE FRANÇOIS IN 1914
At the beginning of the war, Vitry was
the seat of the French General Headquar-
ters Staff. On September 5th, almost the
whole of the population evacuated the town,
together with the civil authorities. Out of a
population of 8,500, barely 500 to 600 per-
sons remained. In the morning a rear-guard
action commenced to the north and east of
Notre-Dame
Vitry. About 5 p. m., German shells
began to fall in the suburbs and in the evening Uhlans entered the town
by the Châlons road. In default of the mayor, the curé, Mr. Nottin and his
curate were at once arrested as hostages, and Mr. Nottin was directed to find
two more. Two patriotic citizens, Mr. Paillard and Mr. Bernat, offered them-
selves for this onerous duty. Together with Mr. Foureur, the schoolmaster,
they took upon their shoulders the charge of maintaining order, ensuring
requisitions, the victualling of the inhabitants, and the treatment of the
wounded. Messrs. Nottin, Paillard and Foureur were among the first civilians
to be mentioned in dispatches.
Up to the 10th of September, the battle raged round Vitry. The Allied
and enemy shells crossed one another over the town: the German batteries
established on the heights to the north replied to the French guns on Mont
Moret. The wounded came crowding in. On the third day they numbered
2,500, of whom 200 were French. The hospital was full; the church was then
transformed into one, as well as all the teaching establishments and the Sav-
ings Bank.
On the evening of the 10th the evacuation by the Germans began. It
took place in an orderly manner. On the evening of the 11th the French
re-entered the town.
Apart from the gas works which suffered from the shelling, and a few
burned houses, the events of September left few traces at Vitry. A few
houses and shops were pillaged, but, thanks to the influence and activity
of Abbé Nottin and his companions, the town was spared the horrors which
the surrounding villages experienced.
Visit to the Town
(See map p. 240)
Leaving the hotel, follow the Rue de Frignicourt to the Place d'Armes, in which
is the church of Notre-Dame, which is shown above. The first stone of
this edifice was laid in 1629. The king gave 300,000 livres (about $60,000)
toward the cost of construction, and numerous families in the neighbor-
hood completed the sum. They bought, by means of a heavy burial
duty, the right to be buried in the church itself. The subsoil of

242
VITRY-LE-FRANÇOIS
Notre-Dame became
on this account a
veritable ossuary.
When the High
Altar was removed,
about twenty skulls
were unearthed. In
1850 when the pres-
ent paving was laid,
32 mortuary stones
were removed from
the nave. The chapels
were built by rich
parishioners, who
placed their tombs
there and dedicated
the altars to the pa-
tron saints of their
Gateway of the Bridge
families. The apse
. was constructed in
1835, and th work of building was finished in 1895. Notre-Dame recalls
Saint Sulpice in Paris, and its interior is worth visiting. The first chapel on
the left has a fine xviiith century railing. In the last chapel off the nave,
on the left, the reredos above the altar should be noted. A bas-relief depicts
Saint Jerome kneeling beside a lion. In the south branch of the transept is a
fine mortuary stone in black marble, showing a knight standing, his hands
joined, his foot on a greyhound. The four pillars at the intersection of the
choir and of the transept are decorated with sculpture.
After having visited the church, take on the opposite side of the Square,
the Rue du Pont leading to the Monumental Gateway reproduced above,
which dates from the xviith century and formed part of the old enclosure.
Turn to the right, along the side of the Marne by the Quai des Fontaines as far
as the Mills. Turn to the right again, and take a few steps from the
Place des Moulins alongside the river, in order to obtain the picturesque view
of the old ramparts shown in the photo below. Take the Rue des Moulins,
which is continued by the Rue d'Enfer, and at the barracks turn to the
right into the Rue des Minimes, which is followed by the Rue des Suurs.
In the middle of the latter, turn to the left, in order to go and glance at the old
wooden market buildings; go round them to the left and regain the Place
d'Armes by the street opening on to the market on the opposite side to
that by which we entered. Cross the “Place" and take the Rue Dominé
de Verzet which skirts
Notre-Dame on the
left. Opposite the
town hall (the old
monastery of the Ré-
collets, which dates
from the end of the
xvi1th century and
contains the library
and museum), turn
to the right into the
Petite Rue de l'Hôtel
de-Ville, then to the
left into the Boulevard
Carnot, and leave this
in the middle of the
Place Carnot in
order to take the
Faubourg de Saint
Mills and Old Ramparts
Dizier on the left.
VISIT TO THE FIELD OF OPERATIONS
OF THE 4TH AND 3RD
FRENCH ARMIES

II.--FROM VITRY-LE-FRANCOIS TO
BAR-LE-DUC
(About 5 miles)
Via VAUCLERC, ÉCRIENNES, FAVRESSE, ETREPY, HEILTZ-LE-MAURUPT,
PARGNY, MAURUPT, CHEMINON, TROIS-FONTAINES, SERMAIZE,
VASSINCOURT
(See map inserted between pp. 234-235)
After leaving Vitry by N. 4, crossing the Marne and a level-crossing, Marolles
(almost 2 miles) is reached. In this village an old man of 70, Mr. Mathieu
Coche, was seized by German cavalrymen, and led away tied to a horse
with which he was obliged to keep pace. On arriving in the neighborhood
of Vitry-en-Perthois (nearly 2 miles to the north of Marolles), the poor old
fellow's strength gave out, he fell and was dragged along by the horse until
death ensued. His body was then left behind, and could not be buried until
after the German retreat.
N. 4 next passes through Vauclerc (about 934 miles). On the left of the
road a great number of new roofs are to be seen, although many of the houses
are still in the same state as that in which the shelling and the fire left them.
During the whole of the battle this village was the objective of the Lejaille
Brigade. It was only retaken by the Colonial Corps on September 11th.
About 1,300 yards beyond Vauclerc, where graves border the road on either
side, is, on the right, a road leading to Écriennes. Before taking it, follow N. 4
for 400 yards farther, in order to see a burying place of the Colonials, shown
in the photo below. The view gives an idea of the immense plain where furious
encounters took place between this crack corps and the troops of the Duke
of Würtemberg.
In that part of the plain which lies to the right of the road, beyond Écriennes,
near Matignicourt, there took
place in 1891 the famous re-
view of troops by President
Carnot. It was the first im-
portant military demonstra-
tion since the War of 1870. It
signalized the resurrection of
the national spirit, and because
of this fact it produced a very
deep impression both in France
and in foreign countries. Mon-
uments to the memory of
President Carnot have been
raised on the field of the review
at Vitry, in the Carnot Square,
and at Châlons in the Place
de l'Hôtel-de-Ville.
Burying Place of the Colonials Along N. 4

246
ÉCRIENNES
Taking the road leading to
Écriennes (about 6 miles), we
arrive at this village, which
has been completely devas-
tated, as may be seen in the
photos on this page.
The
church, the upper part of
which is of timber-work, was
blown in by shells.
Écriennes was hotly dis-
puted from September 6th
to 11th. It was taken on the
6th by the Germans, in spite
of an heroic defence by the
21st Colonials; then retaken
only to be lost again by the
French on the 8th, and re-
taken finally on the 11th.
After passing in front of the
church, turn to the left in order
to rejoin N. 4, in which turn to
the right in the direction
of Farémont. The road
is bordered on both sides
by graves, for the fighting
here
was very violent.
On the road and to the
south of it the Colonial
Infantry fought doggedly,
Écriennes Church
sometimes gaining, some-
times losing ground.
To
the north of N. 4, the Lejaille Brigade tried to push toward Vauclerc.
We enter Farémont (about 734 miles), some of the houses of which
have been burned. On leaving it, leave N. 4 and turn to the left in
order to enter Thiéblemont (about 8 miles). This village was also
completely devastated by shells and fire, but the church is still stand-
ing. Before reaching it, turn to the left into G. C. 60 leading to
Favresse. Graves may be seen along this road. On September 6th,
that portion of the Colonial Corps which held Favresse followed G. C.
60 in the opposite direction, falling back on Faremont, while the
Lejaille Brigade came to take their place at Favresse.
Fayresse (about
1074 miles) was gal-
lantly defended on
the 7th; taken and re-
taken several times
on the 8th, and fin-
ally remained in the
possession of the Le-
jaille Brigade, whose
chief was wounded
by a shell-splinter,
during the afternoon,
at his headquarters.
The village
which was violently
shelled, suffered
heavily, but has
been pártly rebuilt.
The beautiful little
Ruins of Écriennes

FAVRESSE
247
to
church, of which the photographs on this page give
a general view, as well as a detailed one of the
Romanesque doorway, bears traces of numerous
shells. As at Écriennes, and in many little country
churches in this region, the upper part of the
walls of the nave is of timber work.
Turn to the right alongside the church, leaving
it on the left, and take G. C. 16 to Haussignémont
and Blesmes.
On this ground, on September 8th the 8th
German Reserve Corps tried to break through
between Favresse and Blesmes. At one time,
this effort seemed about to be successful, but,
reinforcements having been opportunely sent to
Haussignémont, the Lejaille Brigade was able
to hold the position.
In Haussignémont (about 11 miles), turn to
the left near
Doorway of Favresse Church
the church,
and continue
along G. C. 16
Blesmes,
which is reached
after passing
over a level cross-
ing.
In the
cen-
tre of Bles-
mes (about 1212
miles), turn to
the left in or-
der to pass
front of the
church. Nu-
merous houses
in the vil-
lage were de-
stroyed by
shells and the
roof of the
church
Favresse Church
was
da ma ged; but
most of this
damage has been
repaired.
On leaving Bles-
mes, pass over
level crossing,
then pass under
the railway.
At
the crossroads
immediately after
turn to the right,
then at the follow-
ing fork in the
road, turn to the
right again into
G. C. 14 in the
direction of Étrepy.
pass in
Sorton Farm

248
ÉTREPY
Half-way thither,
on the right, is Sor-
ton Farm, which was
fiercely disputed. As
may be seen in the
photo on p. 247, it
was completely de-
stroyed. The 8th
German Reserve
Corps managed to
take it on September
8th, but on the fol-
lowing day, the
troops of the 2nd
French Corps retook
possession of the
ruins and held them.
Along the road be-
Étrepy Church and Ruins
fore the farm are the
graves of some of its
defenders.
At Étrepy (about 1512 miles), we pass in front of the church (see above).
There are numerous ruins in this village which was set on fire by the Germans
on September 7th.
Of the 70 families who remained at Étrepy during the battle, 63 were
homeless after the incendiaries had passed by. Two old people, more than
80 years of age, Mr. and Mrs. Miliat, were led away almost naked to a distance
of nearly two miles from the village and horribly ill-used. In order to quicken
their pace, rendered slow by age, they were struck with the flat of swords.
Mrs. Miliat died four days afterward as a result of this treatment. On
leaving the village, on the right is the entrance to the castle of the Morillot
family. The son of Count Morilot, a naval lieutenant and commanding
the submarine Monge, went down with her, after having made the crew put
off in their boats, rather than surrender to the enemy. The castle, which is
built at the meeting place of the Saulx and the Ornain and is sur-
rounded by a moat, dates from the xviith century. It was set on fire
by the Germans.
The position of Étrepy is important, being a bridgehead on the water-
way formed by the Saulx, the Ornain and the canal from the Marne to the
Rhine. The passage was defended on September 6th by the 3rd Division
of the 2nd French Corps, but the bridges were forced in the evening,
and at dawn on the 7th, the village fell into the hands of the Germans.
It was only retaken on the 11th.
After crossing in succession
the Saulx, the canal and then
the Ormain, which flows through
a frequently flooded plain, we
arrive at Heiltz-le-Maurupt
(about 18 miles) and turn to
the right, then to the left toward
the church.
On September 6th,
the arrival of the Duke of
Würtemberg's troops, the
beautiful Romanesque
church was devastated by
fire, at the same time as
the little town. Before set-
ting fire to the houses, the
Germans pillaged them.
Heiltz-Le-Maurupt Church
The spoils were placed on
on

HEILTZ-LE-MAURUPT
249
wagons under the supervision of an
officer These removals having been
effected, German soldiers were next
seen, two by two, carrying buckets
slung on poles and filled with inflam-
mable liquid, which they threw on the
houses. The result was a huge outburst
of fire, in which the church, the town hall,
the school, and 187 houses out of 210,
perished
The photographs opposite show that the
roof of the church has disappeared,
exposing the nave. The vaults of the
transept and of the apse have resisted
the flames. The Romanesque apse
is very interesting; the vaulting is
round-arched, and on the exterior are
sixteen blind windows, also round-
arched, separated from each other
by small pillars. The old Romanesque
tower was surmounted by a spire
about 100 feet high built in the Xvith Nave of Heiltz-Le-Maurupt Church
century. It collapsed in the flames.
The western doorway is also in
the Romanesque style (photo
below).
The work of restoration
is in progress, as may be
seen in the photo opposite.
The Germans had installed
at Heiltz-le-Maurupt an im-
portant heavy battery which,
during the whole of the battle,
seriously tried the French
troops entrusted with the de-
fence of Pargny, Maurupt and
Sermaize.
In order to regain the line of
the Ornain and the Saul, take,
a little to the east of the church,
Apse of Church
the street on the right, then, at the
following fork, the road on the right (G. C. 61) and follow its line of telegraph posts
as far as Pargny.
Doorway of the Church

250
PARGNY-SUR-SAULX
Z
The Canal at Pargny (Looking! Westward)
The road passes
over the Ornain,
then
over
the
canal from the
Marne to the
Rhine, of which
the two photo-
graphs opposite
and below give
two views, the
first to the west,
the second to
the east. The
struggle was vio-
lent on the banks
of the canal. The
infantry of the
3rd Division was
guarding the
bridges, which
were taken by
the Germans on
September 6th.
But the French,
entrenched in
Pargny (toward
which the road
leads the tourist),
held out during the
the whole of the
day of the 7th,
under
a terrific
shell-fire which
completely de-
stroyed the little
town. On the
8th, attacked on
the north and
east, Pargny fell.
The next day
the valiant
troops of the 2nd
Corps retook it.
On the 10th, it
fell again into the
hands of the Ger-
mans, to be defi-
nitely retaken by
the French on the
11th.
Pargny church
(about 2034 miles).
in front of which
we pass, had its
roof pierced, and
the vaulting broken
in. The spire was
truncated by
shells.
After having
passed the church,
The Canal at Pargny (Looking Eastwards)
Church and Ruins of Pargny

PARGNY-SUR-SAULX
251
we reach the prin-
cipal street in
which we turn to
the left. The scene
is
very
desolate
(see pp. 250-251).
After following the
principal street, we
take the first turning
on the right toward
the level crossing
which we traverse.
Immediately after,
we turn to the right
in order to reach
Ruins of Pargny
Maurupt by G.C. 61.
Before reaching the village, the TILE-FIELD OF PARGNY comes into view, as
seen in the photograph at the foot of the page. The fighting here assumed a
particularly violent character; the French
after having lost Pargny endeavored to
check the German advance on Maurupt.
A large grave contains the remains of the
brave fellows of the 72nd Line Regiment
who fell on this part of the battlefield.
The tile-field was for many days an im-
portant position of the French artillery,
which swept the line of the Saulx and the
Ornain from this point.
The supplying of the tiles and bricks
necessary for the reconstruction of the
whole region gives occupation to these
works, which have been reopened.
Maurupt is separated from the tile-field
by a dip in the ground clearly visible in the
panorama on p. 252. The road bordered
by telegraph poles which traverses the re-
gion from right to left is G.C. 61, which the
tourist is following. It is thus easy to real-
ize the importance of the tile-field as an
advanced position.
Whilst the French held it, they were
Interior of Pargny Church
able to utilize the
valley (out of sight
of the enemy coming
up from Pargny), for
massing their reserves
of troops and artil-
lery. The position
once captured, Mau-
rupt became singu-
larly exposed.
In point of fact,
Maurupt
fell
on
September 8th, on
the same day as
the tile-field.
The
Ger m a ni a t tack
came not only from
Pargny, but from
the east: the loss
of Sermaize by the
Pargny Tile-Field

252
MAURUPT
Maurupt seen from the Tile-Field
right of the 2nd Corps had made this flanking movement possible to the enemy.
On the 9th, the French threw the Germans back on Pargny, but on the 10th,
the tile-field and the village were lost anew. Violent hand-to-hand fighting took
place in the streets of Maurupt; in one hour, the ruins were taken and retaken.
But the Germans were making progress to the west of Maurupt, and the French
troops, in order to avoid being enveloped, were obliged to abandon the position
and retire toward Cheminon. On the 11th, Maurupt was definitely regained.
Maurupt Church

MAURUPT
253
G. C. 61
leads to
Maurupt
opposite
the church
(nearly 25
miles;) vis-
ible in the
photo on p.
252. This
fine Ro-
manesque
edifice, re-
stored in
the xvth
century, is
classed as
an his-
torical
monument.
It has
suffered
greatly.
The spire has
been smashed,
the tower torn
open, the roof and
the barrel-vault-
ing have given
way.
The town
hall near the
church met with
the same
fate
(view above).
Turn to the
right opposite the
church, in order
to proceed for 800
yards, toward the
hill of Le Montois.
Ruins of Maurupt Town Hall
Graves in Maurupt
Graves in Maurupt

254
CHEMINON
View of Cheminon (Looking East)
Half-way up is the burying-place reproduced on the preceeding page.
Farther
along the road other graves are visible on the left, at the point where the 128th
Line Regiment put up a splendid resistance against superior German forces.
These attacks on the west, joined to those on the north and east, led as
we have seen to the fall of Maurupt.
Return to the village, which is in course of reconstruction; at the church,
continue straight on, then turn to the right, toward Cheminon, into G. C. 16,
which follows the line of telegraph posts.
On arriving in Cheminon (nearly 27 miles), turn to the left to descend the
principal street, shown in the photo above. Cheminon did not experience the
German invasion, and, after the desolation of the villages which we have
traversed, this little township gives an impression of repose, with its picturesque
houses sloping down toward the old xiiith-xvith century church, which is
classed as an historical monument.
We pass under the market (beware of the depression in the ground), then
turn to the right toward Trois-Fontaines.
At the following fork in the road, continue straight on. Pass through Le
Fays (about 2934 miles); 800 yards further on, leaving the road to Saint Dizier
on the right, turn to the left to enter the village of Trois-Fontaines (about 30
miles). At the end of it, the monumental doorway of the old Abbey of Trois-
Fontaines is visible, as shown in the photograph on the next page.
View of Cheminon (Looking West)

TROIS-FONTAINES
255
The Germans
did not get as far as
Trois-Fontaines,
but fighting took
place to the north
and to the north-
east, in the forest.
This region,
where the 4th and
3rd French armies
linked up, was
particularly im-
portant. At Trois-
Fontaines, the
Germans would
have been about 512
miles from Saint Di-
zier, from whence
they would have been
Entrance to the Old Abbey
able to outflank the whole of the army of Langle de Cary. The 2nd Corps
admirable resistance and the aid given by the flank attack of the 15th Corps
of Sarrail's army brought about the German defeat.
The abbey is at the present time the property of the Count of Fonte-
noy. After having asked for permission to visit it, we shall go, crossing the
court to the left, to the corner of the park where the ruins of the church are
still standing
The photos on this
and the following pages
depict the interior
and the exterior.
The abbey
was
founded in the be-
ginning of the xiith
century by
by Saint
Bernard.
The major por-
tion of the church
dates back to the
xiuth century. It
was sacked during
the Revolution, but
the ruins left stand-
ing, covered with
verdure, have an im-
pressive grandeur.
Enter the princi-
pal nave by the door-
way seen on the
left in the view op-
posite.
After having tra-
versed the body of
the church, consist-
ing of the central
nave and two side
aisles, we see enor-
mous fragments of
the arches strewn
on the ground. As
seen in the
the pho-
Ruins of the Church
tographs on p. 257.
ROALD DADA OTURMAL
2

256
TROIS-FONTAINES
Nature has resumed her
sway and tall trees rise
from what was the choir
and the apse of the old
church.
By way of the small
but charmingly planned
park, we
we arrive at the
abbey buildings proper (see
p. 257) which form the
habitation of the proprie-
tor. They are formed of
two wings, built in the
XVIIIth century and
united by a charming
arched gallery covered
with climbing plants.
These buildings were
much more extensive be-
fore the Revolution, and
several hundred monks
gave themselves up, in
the calm of this remote
valley in the midst of the
forest to a life of contem-
plation interrupted only
by rural tasks.
A river traverses the
abbey from one end to the
other, but the monks
Ruins of the Church
made important works in
order to render it subter-
ranean for one part of its length. Thus it passes under the buildings and
crosses the centre of the park, flowing through underground arches, so solidly
constructed that the passage of centuries has left no apparent weakness.
Exterior of the Church

TROIS-FONTAINES
257
At the end of the
park, the river comes
back again to day-
light in order to form
part of a skilfully ar-
ranged decorative
scheme, in which
water, trees and
lawns combine to
make a harmonious
whole.
After this short in-
road into the far past,
the tourist takes once
more the road to
Cheminon (about 34
miles). In this village
pass under the market
again, then turn to the
right into the road vis-
ible in the photo at
the foot of p. 254,
opposite the inn.
Cross the river
Bruxenelle, then at
the following fork in
the road, turn to the
left toward Sermaize.
The way lies through
woods into which
part of the extreme
right of
of the 2nd
Corps retreated after
Ruins of the Church
abandoning Sermaize.
The pursuing Germans began to creep toward Cheminon and Maurupt, and,
as we have seen, succeeded in reaching the latter village, but Cheminon did
not fall into their hands.
NA
Old Abbey Buildings

258
SERMAIZE
After having afforded
a fine view of the valley
of the Saulx, the road
enters Sermaize (about
38 miles).
The town was occu-
pied on September 6th
by the 4th Division of
the 6th Corps. Vio-
lently attacked on the
north and cast, and
threatened with being
cut off from the rest of
the French line by the
Ruins of Sermaize
German advance from
the west, Sermaize,
already set on fire by shells, was evacuated on the 7th by the French troops who
retired toward Maurupt and Cheminon. The Germans entered the little town
and completed the work of the shells, but first they pillaged the houses. It was
proved to the Inquiry Commission that “German Red-Cross nurses came with
carts, in which they piled up the goods which the soldiers passed to them, from
the drapery and millinery establishment of Mr. Mathieu, a merchant serving
with the colors." Five hundred and five houses were completely destroyed,
only 44 remained standing.
Numerous personal outrages were committed. About 50 hostages were
taken; some rigged out in cloaks and casques were obliged thus to guard the
bridges. Here is the declaration of the road-man of the district, Auguste Bro-
card: "My son and I, together with my grandson aged 572 years, were led
away on September 6th by the Germans, who shut us into the sugar factory
and kept us there under guard for four days. When they arrested us,my wife and
my daughter-in-law, insane with fear, ran to drown themselves in the Saulx.
I managed to run after them, and tried three times to rescue the unhappy
creatures from the water, but the Germans forced me away and left the poor
women struggling in the water. I ought to add that when we were set free
four days afterward, and went to find the corpses, the French soldiers who
helped to bury them pointed out to us that both my wife and my daughter-in-
law had bullet wounds in the head."
On arriving in the town, turn to the right. The street leads to the Central Square,
which is adorned by a fountain (see below). The enormous rubbish heap which
the town represented after the battle, is beginning to be cleared. The inhab-
itants have
turned and bravely
set about to rebuild
their homes.
Helped by various
organizations,
French and foreign,
and above all by
bodies of Quakers,
known by the name
of the "Society of
Friends," who have
set up numerous
wooden houses in
all the countryside,
they are bringing
this desolate
gion back to life
again,
The Grand Square Sermaize
re-
re-

SERMAIZE
259
Ruins Around the Grand Square
Take the Rue
Bénard, on the left of
the Square, in order
to visit the church,
which is in the
lower part of the
town, near
the
Saulx. The photo-
graph below was taken
from the right of
this street. In the
foreground, is the
doctor's house, of
which only the
brass plate remains;
in the background
is the temporary
shanty run up by
the chemist.
We reach the
Saulx, on the oppo-
site side of which
stands the church,
which was shelled,
then burned by the
Germans. The Ro-
manesque porch,
which stood out
from it, has been
destroyed; the
nave is open to the
sky, and the spire
has collapsed. The
Rom a nes que
v a ulting of the
transept and of the
apse has alone sur-
vived.
A fine xyth cen-
tury wooden carv-
ing of Christ has
been burned, or per-
haps more probably,
taken away by the
Germans.
Retracing our
steps, we take
on
the left before
riving at the Place,
the Rue d Ander-
nay, from No. 35,
which the
central photograph
on the following page
was taken.
A little further on,
we rejoin the road
(G. C. 15, which
becomes G. C. 1 on
leaving the county),
Ruins on the Rue Bénard
of
Sermaize Church

260
ANDERNAY
and follow it to leave the town. On the right,
about a mile further on, is the "Thermal Estab-
lishment,” whose waters are used for drink-
ing purposes, as well as for baths and shower
baths. Pass through Andernay (about 40
miles), where a few houses were burned down.
Cross over the Saulx, then, without entering
Contrisson, turn to the right (about 41 miles)
in order to follow the railway along the road.
About a mile further on, cross over a level-
crossing, and leaving the railway, which breaks
off to the right, following G. C. 20, continue
straight along G. C. 1.
G. C. 20 follows the valley of the Saulx,
which stretches southward, gradually nar-
rowing. The Germans came up the valley,
driving a wedge between the 4th and 3rd
French armies. During the 9th and 10th of
September, the 15th Corps was working
Interior of the Church
astride this valley, trying to re-establish the
connection. On the evening of
the 10th, the 30th Division of
this Corps took Mogneville
(a mile distant along G. C. 20)
and practically reached the
spot where the tourist is stand-
ing. The menace of rupture
was thus averted.
G. C. 1 leads the tourist to
Vassin court (about 44 miles)
which has been entirely de-
stroyed by fire and shells. The
photo below depicts the entrance
to the village, those of p. 261
the sacked church.
On the evening of September
6th, Vassincourt was on the ex-
Ruins on the Rue D'Andernay
treme left of Sarrail's army. It
was attacked furiously by the
German troops which had just carried Revigny, and sought to take possession
of the plateau commanding the valleys of the Saulx and the Ornain,
by which they hoped
to push on toward
Bar-le-Duc and Saint
Dizier. On the 7th,
the 46th Line Regi-
ment was clinging to
the edge of the village.
Colonel Malleterre,
who was commanding
this fine body of men,
inspired them with
his own indefatigable
energy.
On the 8th, the
57th Brigade of the
15th Corps, attacking
from Mognéville,
tried to free the west
of Vassincourt, and
Ruins of Vassincourt

VASSINCOURT
261
to drive the Germans back toward Revigny.
Two dashing attempts, which caused heavy
osses to two light infantry battalions of the
57th Brigade, failed before the German re-
sistance, supported by a greatly superior
number of guns. The 46th maintained its
positions from Vassincourt to the Ornain.
On the 9th, the attack began again at dawn.
In the evening, the burning village was
closely surrounded on the east and to the
south by trenches which the French troops
had hastily dug. In the course of this day,
Colonel Malleterre, who had taken over the
command of the 19th Brigade and was di-
recting operations, was seriously wounded.
It was only on the 11th that the plateau of
Vassincourt was completely cleared of the
German troops who had entrenched them-
selves there.
Turn to the left in the middle of the village,
to visit the church, of which the spire
Interior of the Church
has been brought down and the interior
laid waste, then return to the road.
After Vassincourt, G. C. 1
passes through Mussey (nearly
46 miles), Varney and Fains,
which will be met with further
up-stream, constituted with
Mussey three passages which
were covered by the 5th French
Corps. The Crown Prince had
given orders to the 13th German
Corps to make themselves mas-
ters of the bridges, but the splen-
did resistance of the French
troops did not allow the enemy
to cross this part of the waterway
which had been bitten into fur-
ther down at Revigny.
Exterior of the Church
After leaving Mussey cross over
the canal, which the road follows on a lower level; pass Varne on the left. At Fains
(about 49 miles), the canal has to be crossed again, turning to the right; then turn to
the left, along the canal. Then return to the high road to Bar-le-Duc G. C. (1.4)
and follow it, to enter the town by the Boulevard de la Banque, the Rue d'Entre-deux-
Ponts and the Boulevard de la Rochelle, where the hotel is located (about 51 miles).
Interior of the Church

269
BAR-LE-DUC
BAR-LE-DUC
ORIGIN AND HISTORICAL FACTS
Environs of Notre-Dame Bridge after an Air Raid
Bar-le-Duc is of Gallo-Roman origin. The name of Bar is very probably
derived from the bar which the Ornain forms at the spot where the Nôtre-
Dame Bridge now stands. The few dwellings erected at the edge of the river
were called Barrivilla; they occupied the site of the present "Faubourg" of
Couchot where the "Rue des Romains" still exists. At a later date and on the
opposite bank of the Ornain, rose a fortified township named Burgum Barri,
which is today the district traversed by the Rue du Bourg. In the middle of
the xth century, Frederick I, Count of Bar, built a castle on the hill overlook-
ing the Ornain, to the west, and the Upper Town was created. When Frederick
I became Duke of Haute-Lorraine, the name of the town was changed into
Barro Ducis, whence Bar-au-Duc, then Bar-le-Duc.
In the Middle Ages Bar-le-Duc experienced the restless life of fortified places.
In the xuth century, Henry V, Emperor of Germany, then, in the xivth cen-
tury, the King of France, Philippe le Bel, declared their suzerainty over the
Counts of Bar. Anne of Beaujeu in the xvth century gave up the district of
Bar to the Dukes of Lorraine. In the xviith century, Bar changed hands ten
times. The most celebrated siege was that by Turenne in 1652; the Lower
Town was taken at the end of a fortnight; the Upper Town succumbed two days
later. In 1670, Louis XIV caused all the fortifications to be razed to the
ground, with the exception of the "Tour de l'Horloge.” In 1737, the last
hereditary Duke of Lorraine, Francis II, ceded the province to Stanislas
Leczinski, the dethroned King of Poland, on whose death it was to return to
France. When this occurred in 1766, Bar was definitely incorporated in French
territory. Francis, Duke of Guise, and Marshals Oudinot and Exelmans, were
born at Bar.
The town was occupied from 1870 to 1873 by the Germans. In 1914,
the Crown Prince thought he would be able to enter it without difficulty,
but Sarrail's Army undeceived him sharply, and the Battle of the Marne spent
itself a few miles from the gates of the town. During the trench warfare there
were numerous air raids, although Bar is an unfortified town (photographs shown
above and on pp. 264-265).
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Poste, Télégraphe, Téléphone
Rues ou routes à éviter par les autos
HOTEL: ma HÔTEL DE METZ ET DU COMMERCE

264
BAR-LE-DUC
Visit to the Town
(See plan p. 263)
Lower Town.-To be seen: NÔTRE-
DAME BRIDGE, Church of Nôtre-Dame.
Upper Town.—THE CASTLE; GUILLES-
DE-TREVES COLLEGE, THE CLOCK-Tow-
ER (Tour de l'Horloge); THE ESPLANADE,
THE PLACE AND CHURCH OF SAINT
PIERRE
Specialities.-Celebrated red-currant
jam; the pips of the fruit are removed
one by one before cooking. “Vin gris.
The Lower Town
Notre-Dame Bridge
It was first built of wood, then of
stone, toward the middle of the xivth
century. The Chapel to the Virgin
on one of the piles has been in existence
Liberty Bridge and Church of Notre-Dame
since the xviith century. It escaped
destruction in the troubled times of the
Revolution in consequence, it is said, of the prudent substitution of the busts of
Marat and Robespierre for the statue of the Virgin.
There is a pretty view of the Ornain from the bridge; but in order to see the
bridge itself in its most picturesque aspect, take a few steps along the edge of
the south bank, whence the photograph below was taken.
Nôtre-Dame
This church may be seen from the bridge. Parts of it date from the xiiith
to the xvth centuries, whilst one front and one tower belong to the xviiith.
The bas-relief of the façade representing the Assumption belongs to 1750. In
the interior, in the right branch of the transept, is an interesting xvth century
bas-relief representing the Virgin and symbolic figures.
Notre-Dame Bridge (Photo L.L.)

BAR-LE - DUC
265
09 LATEST
The Upper Town
The Upper Town is the most in-
teresting part of Bar-le-Duc.
The two accompanying photo-
graphs show it as it appears from
the Lower Town.
Motors can reach it easily by fol-
lowing the Boulevard de la Rochelle,
then taking on the right the Rue
La pique which passes before the
town hall, then the Avenue du
Château.
At the top of this avenue after hav-
ing passed on the left the Roman-
esque entrance to the old ducal castle,
reached by about twenty steps,
one can follow on foot the Rue
Gilles-de-Trèves, which opens on
the right, for about one hundred
yards, as far as the ancient college
of the same name, which is classed
as an historical monument.
It has an interesting Renais-
sance front looking onto the
courtyard.
Return to the Avenue du Château,
continued on the left by the Rue du
Baile. It is from there that the
views on p. 266 were taken, the
one looking toward the Lower
Town, along the Castle walls, the
other toward Old Bar.
At the end of the Rue du
Baile, on the left, is the Clock
Place Reggio and the Upper Town
Tower shown in the view on p. 267.
Pedestrians need not follow the above itinerary, but can gain the Clock Tower
directly by taking the Rue d'Entre-deux-Ponts and the Rue Rousseau visible in
111111
HIR
Rue Rousseau and the Upper Town

266
BAR-LE-DUC
the foreground of the view on p. 265.
The Rue Rousseau, after skirting the
Place Reggio (see page 265), crosses
the Canal des Usines. In doing so, the
little church of Saint Anthony may
be seen astride the canal. It dates
from the xivth century. Turn next
to the left into the Rue Oudinot. After
about 200 yards, take on the left the Rue
Saint Antoine as far as the bridge over
the Canal des Usines, from whence
there is a picturesque view of the old
houses which throng this narrow
stream of water. We retrace our
steps and go beyond the Rue Rousseau
to take the Rue de l'Horloge on
the left. This street mounts to the
Upper Town and passes at the foot
of the Clock Tower. One rejoins
the latter by means of a stair, the
beginning of which is seen on the left
in the view at the top of page 267.
The Xiyth century Clock Tower is
all that remains of the fortifications
of Bar, which, as we have seen on p.
The Old Castle
262, were destroyed by order of
Louis XIV in 1670. From the top
of the stair, to the left of the tower, there is a fine view of the lower town and
of the valley. The photograph at the foot of p. 267 was taken from this spot. If
one wishes to climb the tower, the guardian must be consulted. Turn to the right
on leaving the Clock Tower, in order to reach the Castle Esplanade, planted with
ancient trees; from this point there is a view of another part of Bar-le-Duc
(see photograph p. 268).
Oid Bar

BAR-LE-DUC
267
The Clock Tower
To the left of the Esplanade are
the remains of the old ducal castle.
The view at the foot of p. 268 de-
picts the Romanesque doorway,
which is the oldest part of it. We
saw this doorway from the other
side when ascending the Avenue
du Château. It was formerly on
the level, but in 1871, when the
carriage road was made, it was
united to the avenue by steps.
The castle occupied formerly
the whole of the plateau. It
was built in 964 by Frederick I,
Count of Bar, and altered in
the succeeding centuries. All
that remains are a few Xvith
century buildings, seen in the
picture at the foot of p. 268, and
of which the external view is
reproduced at the top of p. 266.
The buildings and the Chapel
seen between the Clock Tower
and the Esplanade belong to
an old Dominican convent built in
the xixth century,
After going round
the Esplanade, return
to the Rue du Baile
and follow it to-
ward old Bar.
Take on the right of
the Place-de-la-
Fontaine, Rue des
Ducs de Bar, which
has preserved some
quaint xvith
Xvith and
Xvith century
houses. Turn to the
left in this street in
order to enter the Place
Saint Pierre, at the
extremity of which
stands the church
of this name, which
is classed as an his-
torical monument.
The Place has
retained its old-
world aspect; xvith
and xviith century
houses, of which
the most beautiful,
No. 21, is a mu-
seum, form a fit-
ting frame to the
old church.
The museum is
open to the public on
Sundays, from 1 p. m.
to 4 p. m., and at any
升
​View of Bar from the Clock Tower

268
BAR-LE-DUC
time to strangers to the
town (gratuity).
It contains collec-
tions of painting,
sculpture and natural
history.
Saint Pierre is the
oldest church in Bar-
le-Duc.
It was begun in the
xivth century; the
front, reproduced on
p. 269, dates from the
xvith century, ex-
cept the quadrangu-
lar cupola sur-
mounted by a lan-
tern, which crowns
the tower.
This portion,
which jars with the
transitional Gothic of
the rest of the edifice,
was added in the
XVIIth century. The
plans for the right-
hand tower were
never executed.
In the interior, in
the right branch of
the transept, is the
Bar seen from the Esplanade
masterpiece of the
great Lorraine sculp-
tor of the xvith century, Ligier-Richier, pupil of Michael Angelo. It is the
The Old Castle seen from the Esplanade

BAR-LE-DUC
269
funeral monument of René
of Châlon, Prince of Orange.
This monument is more com-
monly called "the Skeleton."
René de Châlon, who was
killed in 1544 at the siege of Saint
Dizier, is said to have expressed
the wish to be impersonated on
his tomb as he would be three
years after his death. It was
in order to conform to his wish
that his widow, Louise of Lor-
raine, ordered Richier to execute
the strikingly realistic monu-
ment reproduced below. The
"Skeleton" was carved in stone,
then placed in a bath of oil and
wax, which gave it the appear-
ance of old ivory.
Opposite the pulpit and sus-
pended from pillars in the nave,
is a carving of Christ between
the two thieves. This crucifixion-
group dates from the xvith cen-
tury and is in walnut wood, but
has been repainted in modern
times.
It has sometimes been attrib-
Saint Peter's Church
uted to Ligier-Richier.
In a
chapel to the left of the choir,
there is kept a xvith century bas-relief representing Saint François d'Assises,
patron saint of François Brulé, rector of Saint Pierre, between Saint Peter and
Saint Max, Abbot of Chinon. In the
right aisle there is a beautiful Renais-
sance chapel and the baptistry.
Motors re-descend into the Lower
Town by the same road as taken for
coming up.
Other Secondary Places of Interest
MONUMENT DES MICHAUX, at the
corner of the Rue Rousseau and the
Rue du Bourg, was erected in 1894.
The two Michaux were the carriage
builders who first thought of fitting
pedals to bicycles.
THE *CAFÉ DES OISEAUX,"
in the theatre, Rue Rousseau,
the hall of which is surrounded
by glass cases containing more than
50,000 Natural History specimens.
THE RUE DU BOURG, with its old
Renaissance houses;
THE PUBLIC GARDEN behind the
town hall:
THE CHURCH OF SAINT JEAN at
the end of the Boulevard de la
Rochelle, begun in 1882, in the
Romanesque style. THE "PORTE DE
LA COURONNE" (Place de la Couronne),
dating from 1751.
The Skeleton
VISIT TO THE FIELD OF OPERATIONS
OF THE 3d FRENCH ARMY

III.TOUR ROUND BAR-LE-DUC
(About 41 miles)
(See map inserted between pp. 234-235)
via VILLERS-AUX-VENTS, BRABANT-LE-ROI, REVIGNY, NETTANCOURT, SOM-
MEILLES, LAHEY COURT, LOUPPY-LE-CHÂTEAU, LOUPPY-PETIT,
GENICOURT, VAVINCOURT
Leave by the Boulevard de la
Banque. Cross the Canal des
Usines, then take on the right
the road to Revigny of G. C. D.
4, 1,500 yards further on, cross
the railway by a level-crossing,
then the canal of the Marne to
the Rhine.
The road dips down to the
left in order to follow the rail-
way, next crosses the Ornain, of
which it follows the right bank.
We come to the hamlet of Ven-
ice, but continue in the direc-
tion of Laimont (about 712
miles). Half-way. thither, on
Laimont Church
the right, may be seen the
woods which constituted the
ultimate line of resistance of the 5th Corps during the violent attacks which
it experienced on the 6th of September, and which caused it to lose about 6
miles. Snatched from the 10th Division of the 6th Corps on the night of the
6th, Laimont was only retaken on the 11th by the 15th Corps. As may be seen
in the above veiw, the church was damaged by shells. Many houses were de-
stroyed. When they left Laimont the Germans took away seven hostages,
among them the rector.
G. C. D. 4 branches off to the left to cross through Laimont, and passes in front of
the church; but the tourist should not follow it, but leaving the village on the left,
continue straight along the road which becomes G. C. D. 15.
About a mile further on, take the "Chemin Vicinal to the right leading to Villers-
aux-V ents. After crossing a stream, turn to the left at the entrance to the village,
following a winding road which leads to the church. Villers-aux-Vents (nearly
10 miles) was completely destroyed by the fire which the Germans kindled be-
fore leaving. It was attacked on September 6th by masses of infantry coming
up from the north and northwest, and gallantly defended by the 10th Division,
which occupied the village and its neighborhood. Violent fighting took place to
the north of Villers, near the Grand-Morin val Pond, in the course of which Gen-
eral Roques, who was commanding the Division, was mortally wounded.
Giving way under force of numbers, the 10th Division was obliged to evacuate
Villers and fall back on Laimont. As we have seen above, this village also was lost
during the night, and the line of defence was taken up in the woods to the east.
The Germans took three hostages at Villers, under circumstances of
which one of them, Mr. Vigroux, gave details before the Commission of
Inquiry He was coming out of his house when he perceived another
resident, Mr. Minette, surrounded by soldiers. "At the same time," he

VILLERS-AUX-VENTS
273
declared, "a Prussian came up
to me, seized me, and led me
away, his revolver pointed at
my head, close to Minette,
without my having threatened
or gesticulated. I next saw the
Prussians strike Minette with
their fists and with the butt-
end of their rifles; they also
tore his clothes, finally leaving
him naked. They then secured
his hands with an iron chain."
The hostages were led nearly
a mile from the village. Minette
was separated from the group
and made to kneel. He was
Crown Prince's Dug-Out
then shot. As far as his companions were able to understand, the Germans
appeared to have found in his house an old and useless revolver. After the
death of Minette the other hostages were set free.
Ruins of Villers
At the opposite end of the village from the church, in a field on the left, is a sub-
terranean shelter, known in the village under the name of the “Crown Prince's
dug-out;" the photograph at the top of this page shows the entrance. This shelter
was dug during the German occupation, and the arm-chairs from the
church were placed in it to
make it more comfortable. Ac-
cording to local authority,
the Crown Prince stayed for a
time at Villers, and the shelter
was made for his convenience.
Descend from the plateau on
which the village is built, and
at the foot of the hill, after
having crossed the river, take
on the right the "Chemin Vici-
nal" which leads back to G. C.
D. 15. It is the little road
which is seen above, G. C. D.
15, planted with trees, appears
Ruins of Brabant-Le-Roi
on the horizon.

274
REVIGNY
Debris of the Zeppelin Brought Down at Revigny
At the meeting of the roads, turn to the right toward Brabant-le-Roi (about
1212 miles). In this village, turn to the left near the church and continue straight
forward to Revigny (about 14
miles) by G.C. 20, which crosses
the picture at the foot of p. 273.
It was between Brabant and
Revigny, near the railway which
follows the road on the right,
that the Zeppelin L.Z. 77 was
brought down on February 21st.,
1915, at 9:15 p. m. The carcass
of the great air-ship is visible in
the photograph above; opposite is
shown the motor-cannon which
brought it down. It was under
the orders of Adjutant Gramling
(on the right) and was pointed
by the Chief-Pointer Penniter
The Gun Which Brought Down the Zeppelin (at his post of observation be-
hind the shield).
Revigny, like Brabant-le-Roi, fell on September 6th, in spite of a brilliant
defence by the 5th Corps. On September 12th, it was reoccupied by the 15th
Corps. In Revigny, after having gone over a level-crossing and continued ght
on, turn to the left, in order to reach the church shown below.
Revigny Church

REVIGNY
275
The church of Re-
vigny is classed as an
historical monument. It
is a xyth and xvith cen-
tury edifice, the most in-
teresting part of which
is the apse.
The gar-
goyles on the buttresses
are curious. The steeple
was destroyed by the
firelighted by the
Germans; the roof
fell in and the in-
terior was ravaged by
the flames.
View of Ruins of the Town Hall
On returning to the
street by which we entered, we continue toward the centre of the town, then turn to the
left into the principal street, from which over the ruined houses, the view below of
the church, was taken. At No. 21, at the corner of the Rue du Four, is the
bakery of which in-
terior and exterior,
photographs are shown
at the foot of the page.
Hundreds of houses
are in this state or
have completely dis-
appeared. We next
reach the Place de
l'Hôtel-de-Ville; the
town hall has been
completely des-
troyed.
The fire was pre-
ceded by pillage.
Numerous wagons
were laden with arti-
cles deemed of in-
terest, and sent to
the back of the lines.
Ruins Around the Church
The walls of the
houses were then sprayed with kerosene from hand syringes. Packets of tablets
made of compressed gunpowder, and sticks of inflammable matter thrown into
the burning houses stimulated the flames. During three days the fires which
went out were thus relighted. Only the houses where the officers were staying
were spared. As they declared to the rector, the Germans did this from no
other motive but to spread terror, and they did it systematically.
Interior and Exterior of a Bakery

276
SOMMEILLES
Brabant-le-Roi
0. PANORAMA OF THE
Twelve hundred yards beyond Brabant may be seen on the left, the pano-
ramic view of the valley of the Ornain, shown in the photographs above. The river,
the railway from Bar-le-Duc to Vitry-le-François, and the canal from the
Marne to the Rhine pass through it and occupy the south of the depression
behind Revigny. On the left, beyond Brabant-le-Roi, the valley narrows toward
Bar-le-Duc; on the right it widens in the direction of Sermaize and meets the val-
ley of the Saulx. The whole constitutes what is known as the Pass of Revigny,
and was the object of furious attacks by the Germans, who sought to separate
the 3rd and 4th French armies in this region. As early as September 6th,
under a violent offensive, the 5th Corps lost Brabant and Revigny, and was
thrown back on the plateau in the centre of which is Vassincourt, which the
tourist has already passed. The German advance was stayed in the neighbor-
hood of this village, thanks to the admirable resistance of the 5th Corps, aided
by the 15th.
On arriving at the Place de l'Hôtel-de-Ville, we shall retrace our steps as far
as the church of Brabant-le-Roi, then turn to the left toward Nettancourt by
C. C. D. 15.
Continue along the road and go over a level-crossing, then the valley of the
Chée to reach Nettancourt (about 18 miles), and turn to the left to come to
the chapel. The church is not in the village but on a hill to the west. It dates
from the myth and xvith centuries and is classed as an historical monument.
It has suffered from fire and from shells.
Ruins of Sommeilles

SOMMEILLES
277
Revigny
PASS OF REVIGNY
Nettancourt fell into the hands of the Germans on September 6th. On
leaving the village, strike of G. C. D. 15 and take on the right the Sommeilles
road or G. C. 27. Go over a level-crossing and turn immediately to the left. At
Sommeilles (about 21 miles), turn to the left to gain the church, then to the right
in order to visit the town hall. The church was capable of restoration, but of
the latter only the front remains; as for the houses, they were completely
destroyed by fires lighted by the Germans under the same conditions as at
Revigny, by spraying them with kerosene from hand-pumps.
It was on the 6th, when the 51st German Infantry Regiment arrived, that
fires broke out in the whole of the village. The inhabitants fled before the
flames, but the soldiers seized them and asked for information regarding
the movements of the French troops, threatening at the same time to shoot
them. Eight hostages were led as far as Brabant-le-Roi, where they were
released after having been made to kneel, whilst their captors made a dumb
show of firing at them.
The Germans committed still more inexcusable crimes at Sommeilles.
On September 12th, when the light infantry entered the village, the officers
and the doctor found in the cellar of the Adnot family's house, seven corpses;
death had taken place under particularly atrocious conditions. The official
Troops Visiting the Ruins of Sommeilles

278
LAHE Y COURT
on
report gives the following
details:
“We discovered the body of a
man of about sixty (Mr. Adnot)
who had been shot; he had two
wounds in his chest and his
eyes were still bandaged;
that of a woman of about the
same age (Mrs. Adnot) with no
visible wounds; another of a
woman of about 35 years,
whose right forearm, entirely
Ruins of Sommeilles
severed from her body, had
been thrown to some distance.
Her clothing had been torn off (this woman appeared to have been violated).
Then that of a little girl of about 12 years who seemed to have met the same
fate; those of three children of from 5 to 10 years, two of whose heads had been
cut off and thrown near the bodies.” After visiting Sommeilles, we retrace our
steps as far as the cross-roads which we found
arriving at the village, and continue
stright on toward Laheycourt by G. C. 35. In
Laheycourt (about 24 miles), through
which we pass, the monumental town hall
on the right (see photograph) is worthy of
note. It was burned by the Germans. The
church opposite was turned into a hospital
and was spared for this reason. A certain
number of houses were burned, or destroyed
by shells.
On leaving Laheycourt, pass a level-crossing,
then follow the railway for about a mile. The
ruilway next leaves the road and goes toward
Villotte and Lisle-en-Barrois, while the road
continues along the valley of the Chee toward
Louppy-le-Chateau.
The right wing of the 5th Corps expe-
rienced violent fighting in this region on Sep-
tember 6th. After having lost Sommeilles
and Laheycourt, it turned to bay at Louppy-
Sommeilles Town Hall
le-Château and at Villotte on the 8th.
Traversing Louppy-le-Château (about 27/4 miles) three-quarters destroyed
by fire, the church will be noticed on the right, in a piteous condition from shell-
ing, as shown in the photographs on p. 279. It dates from the with century and
Laheycourt Town Hall

LOUPPY-LE-CHÂTEAU
279
was restored in the
Xixth. The steeple
was destroyed, the
roof has fallen in. The
bell, which was re-
covered from amidst
the ruins, has been
set up on the ground,
and summons the in-
habitants to the servi-
ces held in the roughly
repaired choir.
The Germans com-
mitted revolting acts
of brutality and im-
morality at Louppy-
le-Château during
the night of Septem-
ber 8th-9th, in a cel-
Ruins of Louppy-le-Château
lar where women and children had taken refuge from shell-fire. Two married wo-
men of 74 and 70 years, and a spinster of 71 years, a mother of 44 years, and her
children were odiously misused. The mother made the following declaration be-
fore the Commission of Inquiry:
"I was in Mr. Raussin's cellar
with my five children and other
persons from the village, when
three Germans, with revolvers in
their hands, entered. One of them
commanded me to lie down on
the ground. I was obliged to
obey. Meanwhile, I received
numerous blows. The Ger-
mans left the cellar, but two came
back again. I made a dash
for the stair and was not
again mishandled, but I heard
sounds of the scenes of viol-
ence to which the women who
remained in the cellar were
subjected. Among them were
Interior of the Church
my two
daughters, aged 13
years and 8 years respectively. Both were violated, the latter, who was
killed by a shell splinter on the following day, being unable to walk."
The brother of the
little victims, a boy
aged 11, made the fol-
lowing declaration: "I
was sleeping in Mr.
Raussin's cellar, when
two Germans woke me,
and tore my trousers.
I cried out: 'I am a
little boy. They gave
me a sound thrashing,
and struck my head
Aith their fists.
On leaving Louppy-
le-Château, turn to
the left into 1. C.
55, in the direction
Exterior of the Church

280
LOUPPY-LE-PETIT
of Louppy-le-Petit. Cross the Chée, then turn
immediately to the right. A mile and a half fur-
ther on, cross a tributary of this river, then come
into Louppy-le-petit (about 30 miles). The
defenders of Louppy-le-Château, subjected to
a violent shell-fire, were obliged to abandon
the village on September 8th and fall back
on Louppy-le-Petit, which they were com-
pelled to abandon likewise on the 9th; the line
of defence was removed further east to Géni-
court, where the tourist will pass after Louppy.
In Louppy, turn to the right toward the church,
Bell of Church, Louppy-le-Château where the bombarudent has caused much
havoc. Descend toward the Chée and cross it.
Immediately afterward, I. C. 55 turns to the left in the direction of Genicourt-
sous-Condé (nearly 32 miles).
Pass straight through Génicourt, go over a level-crossing, then the river, and
200 yards after crossing at the entrance to Condé, turn to the right into G. C. 28
leading to Hargeville (nearly
34 miles).
We are leaving the zone of
the fighting in September.
Turn to the right in Hargeville to
cross the river, then to the left
toward the church, and continue
straight on.
On leaving Hargeville, cross
the railway twice by level-cross-
ings. At Vavincourt (about 36
miles), turn to the right in order
to pass the church, and go
through the village from end to
end; on leaving it, take the road
on the right (1. C. 16), which
branches off from G. C. 28. 1.C.
Louppy-le-Petit Church
16 goes through Behonne, then
descends into the valley of the
Ornain and Bar-le-Duc. At the foot of the slope, cross the railway and the canal,
then again the railway. Turn to the left immediately into the Rue des Romains, then
take the Rue Couchot (3rd on right). Leave it to follow the Rue de l'Hospice on the
left which passes Nôtre-Dame. On arriving at the church, turn to the right toward
Nôtre-Dame Bridge by the Rue de Bar-la-Ville. After crossing the bridge, take the
Rue Nôtre-Dame which continues it, then the Rue d'Entre-deux-Ponts on the left.
On the left is the Boulevard de la Rochelle where the hotel is located (about 11 miles).
Ruins of Louppy-le-Petit
VISIT TO THE FIELD OF OPERATIONS
OF THE FRENCH 3d ARMY

IV.- FROM BAR-LE-DUC TO VERDUN
(About 39 miles)
(See map inserted between pp. 234-235)
Via NAIVES, VAVINCOURT, MARATS, REMBERCOURT-AUX-Pots, VAUX-MARIE,
BEAUZÉE, AMBLAINCOURT, SERAUCOURT, ISSONCOURT,
HEIPPES, SOUILLY
Leave Bar-le-Duc by the Boulevard de la Rochelle, at the east end of which,
before reaching St. John's Church, turn to the left and cross the Pont-Neuf. Then
turn to the right into the Rue Ernest Bradfer; 300 yards further on, turn to the left
into the Rue du Passage-Inférieur. After crossing the railway, turn to the left into
the Rue de Popey; 250 yards farther on, turn to the right, into the Rue de Saint
Mihiel, which is continued by the G. C. S. 1 bis.
At Naives (about 3 miles), turn to the left and take G. C. 28, which climbs the
plateau, at whose foot we have been travelling since leaving Bar-le-Duc. Pass
straight through Vavincourt (about 5 miles) and take I. C. 16, a hilly road, lead-
ing to Marats-la-Grande (about 9 miles). Descend into the village, turn to the
left; and on leaving it by its western end, take on the right, I. C. 48 leading to
Rembercourt-aux-Pots (about 11 miles).
We are entering the zone of action of the 6th Corps. Rembercourt was at-
tacked on September 7th, but held out, thanks to the defences which had been
strong organized round it. It was abandoned on the 10th and retaken
on the 12th.
The road passes in front of the church, which is classed as an historical monu-
ment (photo below). It is one of the most remarkable in the Department of the
Meuse. It dates from the myth century, but its beautiful front is Renaissance.
The roof of the nave and that of the left aisle have been destroyed by German
shells, but fortunately the front suffered only slightly. Take the street on the
right, on leaving the church; it leads out of Rembercourt by G. C. 35.
Rembercourt-Aux-Pots Church

284
REMBERCOURT-AUX-POTS
About 2 miles farther on turn
to the left in order to pay a visit
to Vaux-Marie Farm (nearly
14 miles) which was one of the
most important centers of re-
sistance in this part of the
battlefield.
A few yards from the cross-
roads, on the right, is a large
common grave, of which a
photo is given below. Soldiers
belonging to the 132nd Line
Regiment and the 26th Battal-
ion Light Infantry are buried
there. The farm stands at a dis-
West Front of Church, Rembercourt
tance of 1,500 yards from the cross-
roads. As shown in the views
on pp. 284-285, its buildings have suffered badly from the violent shell-fire to
which they were subjected, particularly on September 8th. The attacks were
fierce, but the de-
fences which the
Light Infantry
had established
around the farm
enabled them to
hold out until the
10th. The farm
was abandoned
at the same time
as Rembercourt
and retaken on
the 12th with
the latter vil-
lage; the whole
of the plateau
extending from
Rembercourt to
Graves near Vaux-Marie
Vaux-Marie
was the scene of
the most violent combats of the Battle of the Marne.
Continuing along the road, after leaving the farm, go over first one level-cross-
ing, then another. The
line runs between em-
bankments, and was
utilized as a line of
defence. French and
German graves (seen
in the centre of p. 284)
were dug along the
slope. On the right of
the road is Hill 302,
on the left Hill 293,
which were com-
prised in the line of
resistance of the 12th
Division of the 6th
Corps on September
6th and of the 107th
Brigade on Septem-
ber 7th.
Vaux-Marie Farm
Before descending

VAUX-MARIE
285
Courtyard of Vaux-Marie Farm
from the plateau, into Beauzée,
there is a fine view. The photo-
graph on p. 285 shows the
valley of Sera ucourt which the
tourist will visit after Beauzée.
It was there that the 40th Di-
vision of the 6th Corps ma-
noeuvred. The view at the top
of p. 286 was taken looking
toward Beauzée, the steeple of
which is visible. The numerous
graves on either side of the
road recall the violence of the
struggle on September 6th,
when German
pressure obliged
the 12th Divi-
sion to evacuate
Beauzée and fall
back on Hills 302
and 293, which
the tourist has
just passed
Before enter-
ing Beauzée, go
over two level-
crossings. Fol-
low the principal
street, and turn
to the right in or-
der to arrive at
the church near-
ly 17 miles).
Graves near Vaux-Marie
View of the Valley of Seraucourt

286
BEAUZÉE
View Looking Towards Beauzée
The photographs on pp. 286-287 give some idea of the state in which the
German bombardment left this fine building. The church dates from the
xvith century, as is shown by the rich ornamentation of the west front (see at
the top of pp. 287). This part of it received several shells, and the shattered
fragments resulting from this may be seen strewn on the ground. The nave,
the apse and the transept suffered most of all. The tower, restored in modern
times and crowned by a spire, escaped destruction. It will perhaps be possible
to save the pa nellings of the stalls and confessionals which date from the xvinth
century.
A large number of houses in the village, and particularly around the church,
were destroyed by shells.
Turn to the right in front of the church, into the street shown in the view at the
foot of p. 287. Then turn to
the left toward the river and
cross it.
There is a very pic-
turesque view of the village from
this spot (photograph p. 288).
Immediately after passing
the Aire, turn to the right
into I. C. 26, which goes up
the valley toward Amblain-
court (about 18 miles).
This little village was
destroyed The view in
the center of p. 288 shows
what remains of the town
hall, which was formerly
church. In Amblain-
court, turn to the right,
then to the left, without
crossing the railway. I. C. 26
going to Seraucourt follows
the valley which appears on
the panorama on
A tributary of the Aire and
the little railway from
Bar-le-Duc to Verdun fol-
low its windings.
Beauvée Church
a
p. 285.

BEAUZÉE
287
The 40th Division of the 6th Corps fought
on the two heights which command the val-
ley to the north and to the south. The
southern one (and especially Chanet Wood,
which we can see on the right) served as a
place of retreat when the attacks of the 6th-
10th of September, which aimed at taking
the northern crest, failed. On the 10th, in
spite of an heroic resistance, the 40th
Division was obliged to abandon Chanet
Wood and to retire for several miles. On
the night of the 12th-13th, the Germans,
having been completely beaten on all other
points of their front, evacuated their posi-
tions, which the French reoccupied on the
13th.
Pass straight through Seraucourt (about
22 miles). Part of its houses were destroyed
Front of Leauzée Church
by shell-fire.
From Serau-
court to
Lemmes, we
are going over
the battlefield
of the Reserve
Divisions
placed at the
disposal of the
3rd Army, in
order to
strengthen and
prolong its
right wing,
and to attempt
to outflank the
enemy's left.
In the neigh-
borhood of Se-
racourt, the
65th Reserve
Division linked
up with the
40th Division of
Interior of the Church
the 6th Corps.
Still following the valley, we
reach Rignaucourt (nearly 21
miles). To the north of the vil-
lage. on the plateau, is Blandin
Wood, which was occupied until
September 10th by the 65th Re-
serve Division. From there
it hurled its daily attacks to the
west against the flank of
On the 10th, it
was thrown violently back
to the southeast, beyond
Landlut Wood, which crowns
the plateau to the south, to
the right of the road. The
German retreat took place on
Ruins Around Beauzée Church
the night of the 12th.
the enemy

288
SOUILLY
In Rignaucourt, turn
to the right in order to
pass in front of the
church, descend
toward the railway,
and cross it by a level-
crossing, then the river
and turn at once to
the left toward Isson-
court (about 22 miles)
At the entrance to the
village, turn to the left
into G. C. D. 6, which
is the main road from
Bar-le-Duc to Ver-
dun. After having
twice crossed the rail-
way by means of level-
View of Bauzée
crossings, we arrive
at Heippes (about
2134 miles). The 65th and 75th Reserve Divisions fought desperately to the
west of this road in Ahaye Wood, until September 10th, endeavoring to give
relief to the 6th Corps by an attack on the German flank.
Leaving Heippes church be-
hind, I. C. 24, leading to Saint
André; comes into view on the
left.
This road formed the
pivot of the attacks of the 75th
Division, one part of which
was operating to the south,
with the 65th Division in
Ahaye Woods, the other to the
north in the woods of Châtel
and Moin ville. After a fierce
struggle, the Reserve Divisions
were forced to retire. Whilst
the 65th Division clung for a
time to Hill 342, or the Signal
d'Heippes, which commands
Town Hall, Amblaincourt
the village to the southwest be-
yond the railway, the 75th held
out in Heippes, but on the 10th both were driven back to the east of G. C. D. 6.
After Heippes, the road goes toward Souilly (about 27 miles). On the heights
to the left of the road the 75th Reserve Division fought. Souilly was aban-
doned by it on the 10th of
September
During the great battle
of Verdun in 1916, General
Pétain had his headquarters at
Souilly Castle. The photograph
opposite shows the victor of
Verdun in company with Gen-
eral Joffre.
Cross straight through Souilly
to reach Lemme (nearly 30
miles), after having twice
crossed the railway. To the
west of the road is the battle-
field of the 67th Reserve
Division and the Mobile
Joffre and Petain at Souilly
Defences of the entrenched

LA VOIE SACRÉE
289
camp of Verdun which, during
the Battle of the Marne, wor-
ried the German communica-
tions by frequent raids against
the enemy's flank.
G. C. D. 6 rejoins N. 3 be-
yond the hamlet of Moulin-
Brule (nearly 35 miles). The
railway is again traversed by two
level-crossings.
This little line which comes
from Bar-le-Duc and which we
have followed from Beauzée
was at the beginning of the
battle of Verdun the only one
Troops Dismounting from Motor-Buses
possible for victualing the
troops. The main line from
Châlons to Verdun was under the fire of the German artillery, and that from
Bar-le-Duc or from Toul to Verdun was occupied in its centre, at Saint-Mihiel,
by the enemy. The capacity of this single branch was so small that all the
heroism of the defenders would have been in vain, and the Germans would
have entered as conquerors into the old city, if by a remarkable feat, motors
had not been able to replace the feeble railway. The road which the tourist
followed on leaving Bar-le-Duc and which he rejoined at Issoncourt has been
known since that epoch as the "Voie Sacrée" (the Holy Way). An average of
1700 motors transporting troops, ammunition and stores, went by each day
in both directions, making one vehicle every 25 seconds. The view below gives
an idea of this line of cars winding across the country.
At the meeting with N. 3, shortly after passing the spot where the railway
crosses the road, turn to the right in the direction of Verdun (about 39 miles).
This town and its entrenched camp, whose renown has become world-wide
are the subjects of a special volume, the Michelin Guide to the Verdun
Campaign.
[Fleet oftMotor-Buses Bringing Troops Back from Verdun
INDEX OF NAMES AND LOCALITIES MENTIONED IN
THIS WORK
The figures in heavy type indicate the pages on which there are illustrations .
.
.
.
.
.
Pages
Acy-en-Multien 113, 114, 115
Allemant 22, 177, 178, 179, 180, 181
Andernay
260
Asquith
104, 105
Barcy 104, 106, 107, 118, 120, 125, 126
Bar-le-Duc 19, 27, 30, 260, 262 to 283
Baron
.81, 82
Beaufort (Commandant de) 195,
196, 199
Beauzéc
285 to 288
Brabant-le-Roi
273, 274, 276
Broyes
22, 177, 180, 181,
194 to 202
Chambry 100 to 103, 106, 120, 126
Châlons-sur-Marne 27, 30, 214,
217 to 228
Champaubert
183, 187, 202
Champfleury (Farm of) 107, 109,
117, 120
Chantilly
33 to 49
Cheminon.
252, 254, 257
Coulommiers . 16, 17, 27, 129 to 141
Courdemanges
238
Crécy-en-Brie
29, 132 to 136
Dourlent (Abbé)
59 to 61
Écury-le-Repos
207, 208, 212
Esternay
18, 168, 171, 186
248
Étrépilly 105, 111, 117, 118, 119,
120, 121, 127, 128
Favresso
246, 247
Fére-Champenoise 30, 180, 181,
203, 207, 211, 212
Ferté-Gaucher (La) 29, 141, 166, 168
Ferté-sous-Jouarre (La)
19
Foch (Général) 16 to 25, 178, 198
204, 207
Franchet d’Esperey (Général) 18
to 25, 179
French
16 to 25
Frignicourt
239
Gallieni (Général) 14, 15 to 25, 112
Grossetti (Général)
19 to 25
Guerre (Sergent-major)
206
Haig, (Douglas) (General)
17
Hausen (Von)
16 to 25
Hauts de Meuse
19 to 25
Heiltz-le-Maurupt
248, 249
Huiron
237, 238
Humbauville
237
Humbert (Général) 22, to 25,
177, 193, 199
Joffre . :. 3 to 14, 25, 35, 36,
205, 288
Klick (Von)
14 to 25
Kronprinz . : ,
16 to 25, 261, 273
Etrepy,
Pages
Laimont
272
Langle de Cary (Général) 16 to
25, 235, 255
Lenharrée
209, 211, 212
Linthes
23, 180, 203
Louppy-le-Château 278 to 280
Louppy-le-Petit
: 280
Magnard (Albéric)
81, 82
Mangin (Général)
167
Marcilly . 107, 108, 109, 118 to 120
Maunoury (Général) 14 to 25
Maurupt
249 to 257
Meaux 27, 29, 86 to 94, 128, 131
Mondement 22, 23, 177, 180,
189 to 202
Mont-Août 181 to 182, 203, 213
Monthyon 96 to 100, 105, 120
Montgivroux 188, 190, 200, 202
Montmirail
20
Mont-Chalmont , 23, 180, 182
Morains
213
Moret (Mont)
238, 239, 241
Morin (Grand)
29, 133
Morin (Petit)
.19, 180 to 185
Nanteuil-le-Haudouin.
116
Neufmontiers
94 to 97
Nogeon (Farm of)
112, 118
Normée. 205, 208, 210, 211, 312
Nôtre-Dame-de-l'Épine . 229 to 231
Odent (Mr.)
62, 63, 79
Oudin (Abbé)
236
Oyes
188 to 191, 199
Pargny
250 to 253
Peguy (Ch.)
96
Penchard
94 to 100, 120
Pétain (Général) 197, 198, 205, 288
Pleurs
23, 180, 181
Poirier (Crête du) 22, 186 to
190, 199 to 202
Provins
16, 27, 141 to 161
Pucelles (Château des) 177, 193
to 196, 202
Puisieux
110, 111, 118
Rembercourt-aux-Pots 283, 284
Reuves
190, 191
Revigny 18, 260, 261, 274 to 277
Rochelle (Plateau de). 197, 205
to 208, 212
Saint Gond (Marches of) 188, 189,
200 to 202
Saint Gond (Priory of)
190
Saint Dizier
255, 260
Saint Mihiel
16
Saint Prix, 183, 185 to 187, 190, 202
Sarrail (Général) 19 to 25, 255,
260, 262
C
-
.
.
Senlis
27, 28, 49 to 78
Sermaize
.249 to 259
Sézanne 16, 22, 27, 29, 166, 171,
175, 176, 180, 181, 187, 202
Sommesous
.30, 206 to 208
Sommeilles
276 to 278
Sompuis
235 to 237
Soizy-aux-Bois 22, 187, 188, 202
Souilly
288
Toulon-la-Montagne
182, 183
Trois-Fontaines
254 to 257
Trocy. 104, 109, 112, 118, 122 to 125
Troyon
21
Varreddes . .100, 104, 105, 106,
120, 125 to 128
Vassimont
208, 209
Vassincourt
260, 261
Vauclerc
245, 246
Vaux-Marie (Farm)
284, 285
Verdun 13, 16, 24, 25, 288, 289
Villeneuve-les-Charleville (La)22,
174, 175, 186
Villers-aux-Vents .
272, 273
Villeroy
96
Vitry-le-François 18, 27, 240 to 242
Würtemberg (Duke) 16 to 25
+
,
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
3 9015 01919 3344
Motorists May Apply
to the “Bureau de Tourisme Michelin"
99 Boulevard Pereire Paris
For all Particulars and Advice
Hotels and Motor Agents
BERBË Palatial hotels, very luxurious
HHHH First-class hotels.
Ens Comfortable hotels, with modern, or modernised installation.
BA Plain but well-managed hotels.
Hotels where it is possible to lunch or dine well
& Small hotels or inns where good meals can be obtained
1
re
Depôt for 'bouteilles d'air
COMPRESSED AIR Michelin' for inflation of
tires
au Repairing Engineer
Agt de Maker's Agent.
13 Garage and number of cars which it can
contain,
u Pit for repairs.
E Petrol Depôt.
Electric station or installation for re-
charging accumulators for lighting.
Fo 104 Telephone and number.
Telegraphic address.
18
MEAUX (Seine-et-Marne).
de la Sirène, 34 7. St-Nicolas. (wc) Gar 3 Shed 5 T Sirene To 83
et des Trois-Rois, 1 . des Ursulines and 30 7. St-Rémy. (wc) Shed 4 Inner courtyard 10 To 146.
MICHELIN STOCK (COMPRESSED AIR) Garage Central (A. Feillée), 17-217 du Grand-
Cerf. Agt de: PANHARD, RENAULT, DE Dion. 301 To 59.
MICHELIN STOCK Auto-Garage de Meaux (E. Vance), 55-57 pl du Marché Age de
DELAHAYE 2010 784.
SENLIS (Oise).
PA du Grand-Cerf, 47 « de la République cc
(wc) Inner coach-house o IT
Grand cerf 7 111.
des Arènes, 30 7. de Beauvais. (wc) Inner coach-house 7 ott To 17.
Com MICHELIN STOCK Guinat, 8 pl. de la Halle. Stock: De Dion. Agt de: PEUGEOT 3 US 70 46.
MICHELIN STOCK L Baut and A. Rémond, 2 1. de Crépy. Agts de PANHARD, RENAULT,
COTTIN-DESGOUTTES, DELAHAYE, ROCHET-SCHNEIDER, Mors. IOTORTO 38.
CHANTILLY (Oise)
näro du Grande-Condé, av. de la Gare: Closed in 1917. Asc. cc wo) Gar 50 I To 52
AMPA d'Angleterre, 1. de Paris andkide l'Hôpital 8 (wc) licked 559
Ami Nogucy's Family Hotel, T. de la Garco (wc) Hiper doch-house 5 to 146.
Ffur MICHELIN STOCK Grigaut: 72 r. du Connélable to 1.14
MICHELIN STOCK Garage Bourdeau, 1 bis e de Gouvieux DUOto 1.90
COULOMMIERS (Seine-et-Marne).
du Soleil-Levant, 62 7. de Melun. cc Inner coach-house 3 courtyard. 15 to 22.
Terny de l'Ours, 7. de Melun. cc Inner coach-house [3] courtyard 10 7.27
W MICHELIN STOCK Doupe-Lejeune, 42 , de Paris. Agt de PANHARD, DELAGE, DARRACO.
OVO to 92.
Gautier, o av. de la Ferté-sous-Jouarre. Agl de. Peugeot, VINOT-DEGUINGAND, DE Diox. DU.
PEUGEOT. .
E Fo 1.19.
P. Fritsch, 51 ao. de Strasbourg. Agt de: BRASIER, LE ZEBRE.
Purson, cycles, 1 r. de Melun. Age de CLEMENT-BAYARD 20€
A. Gontier, cycles, Le Martroy.
Doupé-Boucher, cycles, I r. de la Ferté-s045-Jouarre E
unta a
1
ju
FERTÉ-GAUCHER (LA) (Seine-et-Marne).
du Sauvage, 25 7. de Paris. (wc) coach-house 4 F 19.
MICHELIN STOCK H. Bourgeois. faub. de Paris. Agt de: CHARRON 12 © To 38.
E. Liévaux, 5 r. de Strasbourg. 101EW
PROVINS (Seine-et-Marne).
de la Fontaine, 10 5. Victor-Arnoul. Cs Shed 4) court-yard 20 To 10.
de la Boule-d'Or, 22 r. de la Cordonnerie. Ő Inner shed 6 To 12.
For Louis Pouget, 3 r. Christophe-Opoix. Agt de: RENAULT, DE DION, CHENARD ET WALCKER,
DARRACQ. 20 UE to 1.31.
Metivier, 38 r. Hugueste-Grand. El.
Boucher, 19 r. Félix Bourquelot. Agt de: DELAHAYE. 20 USE:
Thlrlot, 40 r. du Val.
SÉZANNE (Mame).
de France, 25 Grande-Rue. Cc (wc) coach-house 3 shed 5 To 25.
F A la Femme-sans-Tête, 8 et 11 7. de Broyes. CC = (wc) coach-house 50 m. 4 To 16.
W MICHELIN STOCK (COMPRESSED AIR) Victor Quinot, 29 Grande-Rue. Agi de: CORRE
LA LICORNE 10 LETO 9.
Brochot Georges, 20 et'31 1. Notre-Dame. 31€.
F. Mayet, 19 et 21 r. Nôtre-Dame. Agt de: Vinot-DEGUINGAND. GUE.
HAI
CHALONS-SUR-MARNE (Marne).
de la Haute-Mère-Dieu, 26 pl. de la République. cc (wc) Gár OUT Hôtel-
Meunier To 4.
A du Renard, 24 pl. de la République. Ce 0 (wc) coach-house 4 Inner court-yard
8 F 1.48.
W MICHELIN STOCK (COMPRESSED AIR) Maurice Leblanc, 5 pl. Godard. Agt de:
BERLIET DE DIETRICH. 15 LETO 85.
MICHELIN STOCK (COMPRESSED AIR) G. Jacotin, 1 1. Faubourg-de-Marne. Agi de:
DELAHAYE 20 LE F 2.65.
MICHELIN STOCK (COMPRESSED AIR) Hauser, 13 pl. de la République. Agi de:
PEUGEOT, DELAGE, DARRACO, 10 USE TO 2.28.
A. Viéville, 34 r. de Vaux. 4 UE.
Ch. Rouche, cycles, 36 r. de Marne.
VITRY-LE-FRANÇOIS (Marne).
de la Cloche, 1. de Frignicourt. CC (wc) Shed 6 70 66.
mm MICHELIN STOCK (COMPRESSED AIR) E. Groux, 11 Faub. St.-Dizier (rie de Nancy).
Agt de: CLEMENT-BAYARD, CHENARD ET WALCKER. 30 10 To 134.
MICHELIN STOCK (COMPRESSED AIR) Gillet fils, Pl. de la Gendarmerie. Agt de:
CHARRON, DARRACQ. 40 VETO 138.
Ollinger, 15 7. du Pont. Agi de: PEUGEOT. AVEV.
Kremer, cycles, 7 r. de Frignicourt.
PARGNY-SUR-SAULX (Marne).
de la Gare. Inner coach-house 4.
Fun MICHELIN STOCK Luiné, r. de la Chavée. Agit de: DELAGE, UNIC.
A UL.
SARMAIZE-LES-BAINS (Marne).
de la Source (2 km.) (wc) Inner coach-house 20 1 TO S.
de la Cloche, 16 r. de Vitry. 8 (wc) Inner coach-house 2 To 7.
BAR-LE-DUC (Meuse).
AA de Metz et du Commerce, 17 et 19 boul. de la Rochelle cc
(wc) Shed 10 To 1.10.
mentor MICHELIN STOCK J. Petit, 44 boul. de la Rochelle. Agt de: UNIC. 20 VON
MICHELIN STOCK L. Henrionnet, 126 boul. de la Rochelle. Agt de: CLEMENT-BAYARD,
CHENARD ET WALCKER. SVETO 1.71.
MICHELIN STOCK (COMPRESSED AIR) L. Antoine, 8 boul. de la Rochelle. Agt de:
DARRACQ, PEUGEOT. HUETO 1.56.
Guillemin et Murriot, 77. du Cygne. QUE).
The above information, dating from 1st January, 1919, may possibly be no longer exact when this
falls under the reader's eyes. It would be more prudent therefore before making the lour described in this
vlume, 10 consult the latest .French edition of the "Guide Michelin".
FRIS
: